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-*.7-s'

o-c\

nr) n^J^S

* J U
VACATION TOUK

THE UNITED STATES

AND

CANADA.

CHARLES RICHARD WELT),

BARRI9TKR.AT-I,AW.

LONDON:
LONGMAN. BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS.

1855.

London. Lor^ffman X' i*i

London. Lonffman

London :

A. and O. A. Spottiswoodb.

Ne«r.$treet.Squarp.

TO MY BROTHER,

ISAAC WELD, ESQ.,

VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY,

.M.R.I.A. ETC. ETC.

THIS VOLUME

IS AFFECTIONATET.Y DEDICATED,

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Reasons for visiting North America.— Travelling Plans. —
Ocean Steamers — The America.— Fellow Passengers.— Al-
Fresco Concerts.-Bishop of Boston.-Boat Accommodation.
— Ocean Currents. — Winda. — Red Fogs. — Sea-weed
Meadows—Ocean Floor— Deep Sea Soundings.— Bank
Weather.— Halifax— Run on Shore. — Humming Birds.—
Newfoundland Dogs.-rish Trade— American Peculiarities.
—Boston Harbour— Saline Tea-pot.— Bunker Hill Monu-
ment—Picturesque Shipping— Arrival at Boston. Page 1

CHAP. II.

Curious Vehicles— Custom House— Revere Hotel.— Break-
fast. — Contrast between American and English Hotels.—
Rapid Washing. -Old Boston— State House— Commerce.
— Faneuil Hall.— Fresh Pond— Ice Crop and Ice Trade.—

Agriculture near Boston. — Value of Land.— Wages Al-

Fresco Tea. - Fire-flies. - Nahunt. - Steamboat. - Life
Preservers. -Accidents.- Visit to Mr. Longfellow. - Pro-
fessor Agassiz— Geology of Nahant— Salem. -Manufacture
of Boots and Shoes.— Sea Coast — Visit to Mr. Prescott.—

Nahant House. -The Flirtation Galleries. - Bathin*

A 3

CONTENTS.

Laura Bridgman. - Lowell. - The "Young Ladles." «
Manufactures --La^^^^ ^ Mount Auburn. ^ Piano Fac-
tory. -Schools.- New Theatre. - City Library.- Excite-
ment respecting Slavery.- Quiney's Speech.-The "Know-
nothing Movement

- Tage 29

CHAP. in.

LeaveBoston.-RanwayCars.-Cow.catcher.-Locomotives.

Watering the Passengers. - Precocious Travelling Com-

panion. - Troy. _ Saratoga. - Congress Spring. - Amuse-

ments Dinner.-Black Waiters.-Promenade.~Ball.-
Ladies Dresses.-Monroe.-Plank Road.-Lake George.-
Squirrel ILint.-Rattlesnakes. - rj^sse Fishing. -Beautiful
Scenery Last of th. '^lohicans.-Ticonderoga.-Fort.-
Smoke Fog.-Forests on Fire.-Lake Champlain. -Awful
Darkness. - Difficult Navigation. - Rouse's Point. - Tre-

the St lTw '^"'p ^- -^ ^"^"^ '^ Difficulties. -Cros!
the St. Lawrence.-Prescott.-Canadian Voyageurs.-Story

lIL n ; ~~' n J"""'"'- - ^^"^^*°^- - ^'^' Henry. -
Lake Ontario. - Coburg. - Butter Merchant. - Leave for

a^trXT^^""^^^ '-'-'^^ Otonabee.-Arrive
* " • - - Page 64

CHAP. IV.

Peterborougl,. Growa of Canadian Towns. _ Excursion to
the Baofcwood,._Bad E„ad,.-Saw.milb._Lumber Trade.
Capafhto of American Fore.ta.-Dour„.-Maj„r Strick-
tad.- Lakefield.- Agricultural Pupik- Clearing Land-
Value of La„d,-L„gging.-Life in the Bush.-Deer Hunt.
-The Forert.-Duck Sh„otmg.-ri.hing.-Clear Lake-

CONTENTS.

Excursion to Indian Lodge— Maakinonge.— Indians. —Pic-
turesque Encampment.— Bark Canoes.— Petition of Ojibe-

ways. — Keturn to Peterborough

Page 98

CHAP. V.

Journey to Coburg. — Rough Travelling. — The Thousand
Islands. — Canadian Farms.— Eafts. —Rapids. —Descent of
the Cedars. — Excitement. — Anecdote of Moore's Canadian
Boat-Song— Village of the Kapids.-La Claire Fontaine.—
Canadian Singing. — La Chine Rapid. — Indian Pilot.—
Mortreal. — Independence. — Hoch iga. — Ci.thedral. —
Supe. tition.— Artillery Barracks.— Geological Museum.—
Victoiia Bridge. -Farms of the ' iiabitans." — Seignorial
Rights. - - Importance of Montreal - - - Page 1 1 9

CHAP. VI.

Voyage to Quebec. - Heights of Abraham. - Caliche.- Bad
Hotels. — Fortifications. -Magnificent View.— Wolfe's Mo-
nument. - Gray's Elegy. - Opening of Parliament. _ Lord
Elgin. -Political Battles.-French Speeches. -Election of
Speaker. - Place hunting. - Jobbing. - Gathering of
Members. -Lower Town. - Intemperance. - Historical
7T -^;^^'''''' °f tJ^« Military. - Canadian Beauties.
-Falls of Montmorenci.- Spencer Wood.- Garrison Mess.
-Leave Quebec.-Emigrants.-Arrive at Toronto.

Page 134
CHAP. VIL

Toronto. - Cathedral. -Public Buildings. - Shipping. -Pros-
perity. -Wages. - Price of Provisions. - Fugitive Slaves.
-Education.-Environs.-Observatory.-GeologicalForma^

■ • •

VIU

CONTENTS.

t^^n_ Society.- Leave for Lewiston. - Lake Steamer. -
ff T""v '' ^-gara.-Suspension Eridge.-Queens.
^7 rt r~^"'' '' ^"^*^^ House. -Voice of the
Z! " i ' ^''* ^^'^' - ^^^^« K°«k- - Influence of the
^cene - The Two Cataracts. _ Vibration of the Hotel. -
Grandeur of Morning Mists. -Rapids.- Burning Spring.-
Ins Is and- Terrapin Tower. - Gulls. - Exquisite Cofour
tTJ ~~^"^"^°^«- - Manchester. -Spirit of the Falls.
--rradition^-Catastrophe-Power of the Water.-Maid of
the Mist.-Termination Rock.-Water Curtain.-Whirlpool.
-Sunn^e Effect on the Mist- Cloud. -Leave for Buffalo. -
Last View of the Falls.-Fort Chippewa. -Lake Erie.

Page 152

CHAP. VIIL

Buffalo. - Gigantic Steamboat. - Bridal Chambers. - Lake
Erie. -Wooded Islands. -Water-Snakes. -Detroit. -New
lrance.-Vineyards.-Lawn.-New Buffalo.-Lake Michi-
gan. - Chicago. - Its rapid Growth. -Value of Land -
Commerce.-Prairies.-rugitive Slaves. -Popular Excite-
ment.-Emigra-t,s.-Cincinnati.-Tobacco.chewing.-Bur.
net House.-rormer Hotels-Rapid Changes— Commercial
btatistics— Land Settlements.-Furniture Factories.-Rail-
ways.-Tour of the Globe.-Germans.- Porcine Population.
"-Their Habits and Peculiarities— Pork Crop.-Acreage of
Pigs. - Porkopolis. - Observatory. - Catawba Grapes. -
Champagne Manufactory-Mr. Longworth.-Hiram Powers-
■-His first Work.-National Theatre. -Fire.- Steam Fire-
Engine. - Police Court. - « Know-nothings." - Coina<re. _
Counterfeit Notes. - Kentucky. - Spring Grove Cemetery.
- Narrow Escape. - Thunderstorm. - Leave Cincinnati.

Page 181

CONTENTS. ix

CHAP. IX.

Columbus.— Uncivil Landlord.— Zanesville.— Ohio Coal-Field.
—Cambridge.— Doubling-up — Ohio Farms.— Village Lite-
rature.— Stage- Coach.— Indian Corn.— Wheat Crop.— Maple
Trees. — Wild Vines. — Independent Drivers. — Orchard-
robbing. — Morristown. — Negress Fanners. — Beautiful
Scenery .—Telegraph.- Wheeling.-Wire Bridge.- Railway
to Cumberland. - Cross the Alleghanies. - Stupendous En-
gmeering. — Camel-Engines. — Magnificent Forests. — Preci-
pices.- Train off the Lino. - Midnight Arrival Cumber-
land. — Church Bells.— Ramble in Forest. — Coal-Field. —
Rattlesnakes.-Irregularity of Train. —Messenger-Train.—
Frightful Speed.- Recklessness of Conductor.- Accident-
Narrow Escape. — Impromptu Pic-Nic The Potomac —

^'''rr^ ^*^te of Rails—Long Detention—Harper's t^erry.

Page 224

—Relay House — Arrive at Washington

CHAP. X.

The Marble House. — Interview with Editor of Star News-
paper.-Press Morality. - The Capitol. - Rome. - Political
Situation of Washington. -Houses of Legislature. - The
Bald Eagle.-Plague of Ants— Patent Office.- Museum -
Tanned Negro Skin.- Franklin's Printing Pr.ss.-Hair of
Presidents. - State-Paper Office. - Observatory. _ Coast
Survey. —Instruments. -Smithsonian Institution. — Gutta-
percha Stereotype Printing. - The President. - Courteoua
Reception.-Republican Servants— Visit to Mount Vernon
-Alexandria.-Fort Washington. -Washington's Tomb-
Disgraceful Condition of Mount Vernon. -Dinner Party —
Meeting of Know-nothings. - Washington and Secret So-

cieties.-NationalMonument—Slaves.-NegroBaIl— Leave
^^^'^•"g*^'^ Page 254

CONTENTS.

CHAP. XI.

Steam down the Potomac-Lose Luggage. -Acquia Creek-
Arnve at Richmond. - Slavery. - Armoury. - Virginian
State Guard. -Jefferson's Cannon. _ Gorgeous Sunset. -
Kecover Luggage. -African Church. - Excellent Sin^^ing
--Dress of Negresses. _ Adult Baptism of Slaves. - sfave-
Market-Mode of selling Slaves. - Quadroon. - Beautiful
Children. -Slave Advertisements.- Reflections on Slavery
-Deportation of Slaves.-Tobacco Factory.-Incendiarism;
-blave Labour. -Cotton Factories. - White Labour —
Rendition of Fugitive Slaves. - Pauperism. - Capitol -
Houdon's Statue of Washington. - State Penitentiary.-
Theatre. - Richmond Hotels, past and present. - Leave
Richmond ... t. .

- JPage 286

CHAP. XIL

James River. -Early English Colonists. - Captain Smith -
Dismal Morning.-Planters' Houses.-Picturesque Scenery
-Agriculture.— Hampton Roads, Norfolk.— Navy Yard -
Gosport.-Crowded Steamer.-Leave for Baltimore.-Steam
up Chesapeake—Dreadful Night— Baltimore—Hotel Ac-
commodation. - Exhibition. - Manufactures. - Agricultural
State Fair. - Beautiful Women. - Fine City. - Leave for
Philadelphia.- Scramble for Supper— Rude Behaviour -
Philadelphia— The Girard House. -Public Schools.-State
Penitentiary.-Girard College.- Judge Kane.-Philosophical
T*^7n''"''"" ^"^^^^'^t^-Academy of Natural Sciences.
-Fine Collections.-State.House.-Tame Squirrels— Mint
- Water- Works. - Fire Companies— Franklin's Tomb -
Leave for New York p 3

CONTENTS.

CHAP. XIII.

The Saint Nicholas Hotel.— Conduct of its Guests.— Trial of
Dr. Graham.— Delmonico's Hotel — How to see New York.
—The Hudson.— Great Hospitality.— Mr. Grinnell.— Com-
mercial Quarter of New York.— Its physical Peculiarities.—
Broadway. — Fashion. — Splendid Mansions. — Republican
Luxury.— Aristocratic Desires.— Order of the Cincinnati.—
Love for Titles. — Franklin's Coat of Arms. — Jefferson's
Prediction.- Crystal Palace.— Barnum's Speech.- Railway
Omnibuses. — Croton Reservoir. — Astor Library. — New
Opera House.— Grisi and Mario. - New York Criticism. —
Metropolitan Theatre. - Christy's Minstrels. - Supper
Rooms.— Deference paid to Ladies.— Bar-Rooms.- Electric
Telegraph. — Volunteer r.nd Militia Corps. — Recruiting
Service. - ray of Army. —Navy.- Emigrants. — American
Party Manifesto.- Staten Island. -FareweU Impressions.—
Journey to Boston. — Mr. Ticknor. — Loss of Arctic-
Departure. — Funeral at Sea. — Arrive at Liverpool.—
^"^^•'^^•^^ - Page 358

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VACATION TOUR

IN THE

UNITED STATES AND CANADA.

CHAPTER I.

REASONS FOR VISITING NORTH AMERICA TRAVELLING

PLANS OCEAN STEAMERS. — THE AMERICA. — FELLOW

PASSENGERS. AL-FRESCO CONCERTS. — BISHOP OF BOS-

.^ TON. — BOAT ACCOMMODATION OCEAN CURRENTS.

WINDS. RED FOGS. — SEA-WEED MEADOWS OCEAN

FLOOR. — DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. — BANK WEATHER

HALIFAX. RUN ON SHORE. — HUMMING BIRDS NEW-
FOUNDLAND DOGS. FISH TRADE AMERICAN PECU-

LLA.RITIES. BOSTON HARBOUR. — SALINE TEA-POT.

BUNKER HILL MONUMENT, -—PICTURESQUE SHIPPING.

ARRIVAL AT BOSTON. •

Although the waiters at the Liverpool hotels come
into your room on the morning of the day on which
the steam-ships start for America, demanding, la-
conically, whether you are going " across ;" thus plea-
santly dwarfing the vast Atlantic into an imaginary

* A VACATION TOUR.

ten minutes' ferry, yet to those who have never made
a voyage, the contemplation of crossing the Atlantic
awakens sensations different to those experienced
previous to a trip across the Channel.

I confess, when the time drew near for embarking
on the undertaking which forms the subject of this
work, I felt, amidst the pauses and calms of London
hfe and London business, feelings entirely unknown
on the eve of my former numerous continental ex-
cursions. It was difficult to realise the fact that I
was indeed going to the New World, until the ar-
rival of sundry packages committed to my care by
friends for delivery in the United States (who has
not friends on such occasions?) brought the truth
very forcibly before me.

I had not come to the determination of visiting
the United States without considerable thought ; for
although the desire to see that marvellous Anglo-
Saxon offshoot of our little island was of ancient
date, there were many circumstances to be considered.
Without detailing them, I may mention the two most
important,- time and expense,-because I apprehend
they will have most weight with those who may be
disposed to exchange the hackneyed Continent for
the boundless freedom and novelty of a tour in the
New World.

5i. ■
St', I

REASONS FOR VISITING NORTH AMERICA. 3

On the score of time, I confess I felt somewhat
dismayed; for not being master of this most necessary-
item in the economy of a tour, it appeared to me,
looking at the huge distances on the map, apart from
the voyages, that it would require many months to
see the principal objects of interest in the United
States and Canada, and my furlough was limited to
a few weeks. I was aware that Jonathan is a go-
ahead animal, but still the distances were of a stag-
gering nature, and I felt doubtful, until my kind
friend Sir Charles Lyell inspired me with confidence,
and an endeavour to realise my day-dream. Talking
the subject over with him, he emphatically ex-
claimed, " If you have only a fortnight to spend in
America, go there ; " and I think my resolve to see
the New World dates from the utterance of these
encouraging words.

But I had another motive for crossing the At-
lantic, which, from its singularity, merits record.
Fifty-five years ago a very remarkable book was
published, entitled WeMs Travels in America, which
passed through several editions. It was also translated
into various European languages— twice into German ;
and, in short, the book was regarded as the great
authority of the period on American subjects. The
travels extend over three years, 1795—7, and embrace

B 2

* A VACATION TOUR.

a very large portion of the United States and Canada.
In fact there can be no question that the colonization
of Canada was mainly promoted and influenced by
this book.

Accompanied by a faithful servant, Mr. Weld,

sometimes on horseback, sometimes on foot, or in

canoe, made his way through vast forests or along

rivers or lakes ; narrowly escaped shipwreck on Lake

Erie, and experienced all the adventure incident to

passing through an unsettled country, while in the

cities and towns he mixed in the best society, and had

the honour and pleasure of knowing Washington.

Now when the reader learns that the author of
this celebrated work is still living, and in possession
of his intellectual vigour, and moreover that I am
his half-brother, it will, I venture to think, add to
the interest of this book if a contrast be occasion-
ally drawn between the state of things in America
fifty-five years ago, and what it is at the present
time.

It will be seen that, within a generation, where
he had to camp out and trust to friendly Indians for
safe conduct through the interminable wilderness,
railways are now established -« air lines," along
which the traveller is borne in a straight direction
for hundreds of miles through forests; and on the

TKAVELUNG PLANS. 5

broad waters where he had to hire small barks to
convey him to his destination, ^wift steamers, which
may be called huge floating hotels, are now uni-
versal.

To mark and chronicle these changes had con-
siderable influence in determining me to visit Ame-
rica. As soon as my resolve was made, I sought and
received advice respecting travelling arrangements,
from friends who had been in the United States,
and was soon in possession of so formidable a budget
of counsels and hints, that, in my perplexity and
bewilderment, I began to doubt the truth of the
proverb that " in the multitude of counsellors there
is wisdom ; " for while some advised one mode of pro-
ceeding, others urged a totally different course ; and
thus, not caring to follow the plan of the redoubtable
Wouter von T wilier, I summoned my judgment to
decide. In no particular did the advice of my friends
clash more antagonistically than on the question of
letters of introduction. « Do not take a single letter,"
said one friend ; " Obtain as many introductions as
possible," urged another ; and as I was in favour of the
latter advice, the result was that on the eve of my
departure the kindness of friends put me in possession
of upwards of a hundred letters of introduction ; and
I deem it right to state at once I was indebted to

B 3

A VACATION TOUR.

these friendly missives for great hospitality, and for a
large store of valuabie information.

Then with respect to the route, -that most im-
portant consideration to the tourist in all lands, and
especially in a country yet unblessed by a Murray's
handbook, -^howluhyrinthme were the wanderings
traced for me by kind friends I-some bent on sending
me well nigh to the North Pole ; others to the Dismal
Swamp and New Orleans ; while a few spirited me in
imagmation across the Rocky Mountains, including a
visit to California and the unholy Mormons. The
result of all these counsels was hanging a large map
of America upon the wall, and tracing on it a route
through the United States and Canada; and I rejoice
to say I have no reason to repent my decision.

My remaining preparations were soon made ; and
having packed a portmanteau and bag with, as usual
too many articles, I left London for Manchester,'
where I enjoyed the hospitality of a valued friend
whose brother I purposed visiting in Canada, and
from thence went to Liverpool. My short journey
to that town was amusingly diversified by a party of
emigrants and their friends, who passed the time by
alternately reading aloud, for their mutual solace
and edification, passages from a little book entitled
Crumbs of Comfort, and drinking assiduously and

OCEAN STEAMER8. 7

with great regularity the contents of a bottle, which
gave olfactory evidence of being filled with something
stronger than water. On arriving at Liverpool, I
drove to St. George's landing stage, and was soon
in a stream of luggage and passengers pouring down
to the steam-tender. It was, indeed, a moving scene ;
for, besides the throng of passengers and their friends,
an army of porters continued piling wonderfully-
shaped boxes, trunks, and packages on the already
great mountain of luggage encumbering the fore-part
of the tender, while boys and men shouted, " News
for ' Meriky ' — Last news for * Meriky ! ' Papers —
Papers — Morning Papers I "

Having passed through the painful ordeal of
parting from those most loved, I was alone amidst
the strange scene, and had ample leisure to study it,
until the extreme pressure of the crowd became
almost intolerable. After sundry heavings to and
fro, I was brought to a stand-still by being wedged
between a pile of luggage and a young lady in
a feminine wide-awake, seated on a trunk in a
seeming state of mental anguish. At length the bell
rang, and we steamed to the America, which lay a
short distance up the river. As we approached her
vast hull ^ -azed anxiously at what was to be my
home for many days, and thought of the almost mar-

B 4

r't

A VACATION TOUU.

vollmu skill and science whieu in.pols such a Iiuko
.I"P across the Atlantic in .lefianco of adverse winds.
ri.c triumph is of very modern acl.iovement On
the 11th May, 1819. the following paragraph ap-
peared h. Tl. Ti,„c>:-» Great E.peri„,ent : A new
stcam-vesscl of .TOO tons has been built at New York
for the express purpose of carrying ,asse„gcrs acres,
tl.0 Atlantic. She ia to come to Liver,K,oI direct :"
The name of this ship was th .Savannah, and she
crossed the Atlantic in twenty-six days. Her recep-
tion m Liverpool was most enthusiastic j and it ia
worthy of „,e„tion that, having subsequently been
navigated to Cronstadt, the Car Alexander I. went on
board the vessel, examined her with great attention,
and presented her captain with a handsome silver
tea-kettle, which, it must be conceded, was an appro-
priate gift to the skipper of a steamer.

It is remarkable, bearing in mind that a prosperous
and successful steam-voyago had been for the first
time performed four years before the above date
from Glasgow to London, on which occasion my
brother steered the little steamer round the Land's
End, that it should have taken ,o many years to de-
velop the power of oeean steamers. Fitch, of Phila
delphia, confidently predicted, half a century a^o the
estabhshment of Atlantic steam navigation ; bJt it

TIIK "AMKUICA."

was reserved for our own days to witness, and be
sharers of, this great scientific achievement. The
immense speed of modern ocean steamers which

" Splash, 8i)lash across the sea,
Against the wind, ngniust the tide,"

compared with the most powerful twenty years ago, is
forcibly illustrated by the government steamers which
ran at that time, between Falmouth and Malta, at an
average speed of six miles an hour.

But we cannot indulge longer in these reminii-
cences, for we are alongside the America ; and, glad to
^scape from the narrow confines of the tender, we
rush up the gangway, and stand on the capacious
decks of the ocean steamer. Let it not be imagined,
however, we arc at peace. Far from it. We have a
mighty task to perform. This is, to seize our luggage
as it is brought on board, and turn it aside from its
impending fate of confinement in the depths of the
hold. Now, as everybody is engaged in the same
operation, it may be imagined the scene is rather ex-
citing, as desperate attempts are made to clutch
portmanteaus and bags en route to the nether regions.
I was fortunate in the scramble, and, having secured
my " traps," descended with the steward to store my
worldly goods, and inspect the locality where I was

A VACATION TOUR.

to spend many hours. And here I would ask how it
comes to pass that the rarrow cell on board a ship, m
which the unhappy landsman is generally confined
until he has sacrificed to Neptune, is dignified by the
rnagnificent title of "State Room." I confess the
result of my survey was not very cheering; but,
taking comfort by the fact that my quarters were
better than those of my neighbours, I returned to the
decK, where confusion was still in the ascendant.
By degrees, however, the monstrous heap of luggacre
disappeared, and a bell rang to warn friends the
time for departure had arrived. And now might be
seen the tear-brimming eye, the quivering lip, the
agony of the last embrace of those parting, perhaps to
meet no more; while others separated with as little
apparent concern as if we had been going merely
across the Channel. Such is life, ever made up of
strange and strong contrasts.

To myself, and probably to many of my com-
panions, these last moments were solemn and im-
pressive; and I am not ashamed to confess thoughts
too deep for utterance stirred me, as I hung over the
vessel's side, and saw the land rapidly recede which
contained all that I held dear.

How long I remained thus abstracted I know not ;
but I remember being rather violently aroused to

FELLOW PASSENGERS.

present circumstances by the ringing of a very loud
and inharmonious bell, and a voice demanding
whether I was " up to dinner." The bell gave notice
that in half-an-hour this meal would be served, and
the voice was that of a friend, who, having crossed
the Atlantic several times, was stoically proof against
all sensations of a sentimental nature.

As we were going through smooth water, we
mustered strongly at this first meal, numbering about
one hundred ladies and gentlemen ; and certainly, to
judge by the behaviour of the guests, it might have
been assumed we were bound on a party of pleasure.
It must be admitted, the bill of fare presented many
inducements to join the dinner party. Animated by
the spirit of rivalry existing between the Collins and
Cunard line of steamers, which extends to the com-
missariat department, the provisions on board the
America were of an excellence and supplied with a
prodigality truly amazing. And it is due to the cJiefde
cuisine to state that the cooking was admirable. The
attendance was also excellent, twenty-six stewards
officiating under the direction of the chief steward,
who had the captain's table under his more immediate
superintendence ; and as I had a seat at this desirable
board, I can vouch for the fact that the best dishes
were not far from our commander.

A VACATION TOUR.

U, If '

Our r&nion gave us an opportunity of seeing
something of each other. Among the passengers
were actors and actresses, -one of the latter a prett •
woman; a Roman Catholic bishop fresh from Ital>
with a brood of newly-Hedged priests; an Americ;„'
ex-Mm,ster from Turkey, with his wife and niece;
and a mixture of merchants, agriculturists, Cali-
forman adventurers, with huge beards and strange
stones ; ladies, and emigrants.

When I returned to the deck, I found we had
passed the bar, and were running up Channel, to
make what is called the "north about" passage;
hat IS, gomg round the north of Ireland. It was a
lovely evening; and although the Irish Channel was
not m the calmest mood, yet the great size of our
sh.p prevented any unpleasant motion. So all went
well with me, and I sat up until a late hour watching
the Irish coast

The following morning we were abreast of the

Giant's Causeway. The sea continued propitious to

landsmen with weak stomachs, so we mustered well

at breakfast, at which meal the cook again astonished

mo by the variety of dishes. At half-past ten a bell

summoned us to divine service. This was reverently

l-erformed by the surgeon, who, with as many office.^

and sailors as were off duty, attended in their uni-
lorms.

SEA-SICKNESS.

As the afternoon waned into evening, a streak of
blue appeared far to the west, at which I gazed long
and earnestly ; for it was the Atlantic. My desire to
remain on deck until our keel ploughed this vast
ocean was great ; but, alas ! my infirmity was
greater ; and, before we reached it, I was under the
necessity of descending to my state-room with no
clear idea as to when I should be able to leave it.

It is Matthews, I believe, who expresses his asto-
nishment that poets have made no use of sea-sickness
in their descriptions of the place of torment, for it
might have furnished excellent hints for improving
the punishments of their hells. What if Dante had
derived infernal inspiration from the agonising throes
of sea-sickness — should we have a more terrible
Inferno ? Shakspeare, with his usual sagacity, must
have had it in mind when he makes Gon;..ilo, the
honest old councillor of Naples, exclaim in his agony,
probably of body as well as soul, « Now would I give
a thousand furlongs of sea for an acre of barren
ground,— long heath, brown furze, any thing I"

Being personally what is called a bad sailor, I
looked forward with great apprehension to the voyage
across the Atlantic, expecting to be continually un-
well; but — and I am desirous of recording the fact
for the comfort of apprehensive landsmen— I suffered

A VACATION TOUR.

far less on my two voyages across the Atlantic than
it has been my lot to endure during many passages
from Folkestone to Boulogne, when it has appeared to
me that nature and art combined in the most cruel and
inharmonious manner to inflict as much misery as
possible during the happily brief period occupied by
the passage.

The fact is, the motion on board a large ocean
steamer of 2000 tons is totally different from that
villanous stomach and brain dislocatory movement
felt in the cock-boats in our uneasy Channel, being a
majestic kind of heave and roll, as stupendous as the
mighty Atlantic waves, highly enjoyable when sick-
ness is over.

Not being vexed by foul or violent winds, the pas-
sengers soon began to turn up, and in the course of a
day or two we had settled down into the usual occu-
pations and amusements incidental to a sea life.

When the evenings were long, and the weather in
that amiable mood described by a poetical midship-
man in the log-book as

" Light airs, languishing into calms,"

many hours were spent on deck, where, under the
leadership of the actors, glees and songs, with power-
ful choruses, in which all joined, were kept up with

AL-FRESCO CONCERTS.

great ^nirlt until a late hour : on these occasions the
worthy Bishop of Boston was a tower of strength.
Personally of Lablache-like proportions, he was gifted
with a magnificent voice, and sang many of Dibdin's
songs in a manner that called forth vociferous ap-
plause ; nor, when the song was over, did his Ro-
man Catholic reverence deem it inconsistent with
his ecclesiastical dignity to sit among us smokiiig his
" Havannah " and imbibing toddy.

Those were pleasant nights, when the winds were
at rest, and the moonlight bridged the heaving waves
with silver bars, our ship speeding on, flinging from
her bows tongues of phosphoric fire, which flickered
far in her foamy wake. But as every night was not *
favourable for these al-fresco concerts, they were di-
versified by Shakspearian readings, admirably given
by one of the actors, and occasionally by more
subdued singing, in which our lady friends took part.
Supper — consisting generally of anchovy toast,
poached eggs, and broiled bones — followed these
entertainments, after which we descended to our
narrow resting-places, deeming ourselves fortunate if
we had light to undress, as the steward invariably
extinguished the lamps at midnight.

So passed our fair-weather days ; but, as may be

A VACATION TOUR.

■ ml

ml '

W' 1) f

^ii.-iji

supposed, great and sudden changes came over the
passengers wlien

" The stormy wind did blow,"

and our efforts to walk the deck reminded me of
Bentham's paulo-post-prandial vibrations. Foul
weather, however, had no effect on the discipline or
management of the ship, which through sun hine and
storm went on with the same regularity as the pulsa-
tion of the mighty engines. It was, indeed, a daily
source of interest to watch the various operations in
our floating hotel, the more studied as our outward
world rarely presented any variety. Day succeeded
day, and still our ship was alone on the great waters,
not a sail being in sight. Under these circumstances,'
the blowing of a whale near us, or the gambols of in-
numerable porpoises, were sure to call every pas-
senger on deck, and batteries of telescopes into play.
The pains taken in navigating the Cunard steamers
and their general excellent appointments make it the
more surprising that the boat-accommodation should
not be proportionate to the number of passengers.
On our voyage out we numbered 170 passengers and
103 officers and crew, making a total of 2/3 persons;
while our six boats, with the closest packing, could
only contain 210 individuals, and two of them were

OCEAN CURRENTS.

stowed on the deck-houses within the shrouds, bottom
upwards, — the one covering vegetables, the other
fodder for the cow ! On my return to England, I
felt it a duty to make these facts public. This eli-
cited an answer from Mr. Cunard, who stated that
his steamers carried the number of boats required by
the act of parliament ; but, as the number of pas-
sengers is unlimited, it is evident that when the
amount of boat-accommodation is exceeded, which it
was in our case, there is but little hope of safety in
time of peril.

That terrible catastrophe, the loss of the Arctic,
affords the strongest evidence of the want of due care
on this most important question. There were 400
human beings on board that ship, and only boat-ac-
commodation for half that number. Not only should
there be a sufficient number of boats, but they should
be carried in such a manner as to permit of their
being almost instantaneously launched.

We had been a week at sea when the fine clear
weather we had enjoyed was blotted out by cold dense
fogs, affording sure evidence of our vicinity to the
Banks of Newfoundland and the Gulf Stream. There
is something peculiarly interesting in the physical con-
sideration of this current, and of that issuing from
the Arctic Sea, which combine to produce a cosmical

A VACATION TOUR.

Wji

arrangement necessary for the comfort and existence
of man. Well has it been observed, that the har-
monies of the sea are beautiful and sublime.

The winds, which give life and animation to the
ocean, are another source of interest during a voyage
Not idlj, nor without a purpose, do those breezes and
tempests sweep past the voyager as he plunges through
the swelling seas. It is their business to maintain a
systematic circulation of the atmosphere; and the
Bible, which frequently alludes to the laws of nature,
tells us all this in a single sentence :-« The wind
goeth towards the south, and turneth about unto the
north; it whirleth about continually, and the wind
returneth again according to his circuits."

The track pursued by steam-ships from Europe to
America, unhappily for those who are sorry sailors
does not lie across that ocean paradise of landsmen'
denominated by th. Spaniards - M golfo de las
namasr being that belt of the Atlantic situated
about the thirtieth parallel of latitude, where the wind
blows so equally and softly, that the waves are always
low and regular. Humboldt says of this part of the
Atlantic, that it is less dangerous to navigate than it
IS to traverse one of the small Swiss lakes. To the
north of this blfeesed region storms are rife, and
are not unfrequently accompanied by those curious

SEA-AVEED MEADOWS.

phenomena— red fogs and sea-dust, which microsco-
pists inform us are composed of countless millions of
organic particles. Nor, when these are absent, let the
voyager imagine, as he « sweeps through the deep,"
he is

*' Alone on the wide, wide sea,
So lonely 'twas, that God himself
Scarce seemeth there to be."

The vast sea-weed meadows of the Atlantic, which
cover a space nearly seven times as large as France,
teem with life ; and deep sea>soundings, which reveal
the sea-floor at the greatest depths, tell us that
the bottom of the ocean is frequently paved with
calcareous and siliceous shells. Thus, the study of
these " sunless treasures," which are now recovered
with much ingenuity by Brooke's deep sea-sounding
lead, suggests new views regarding the physical
economy of the ocean, as they are the atoms of which
mountains are formed. For the ocean bed is full of
irregularities, and I often thought, as our steamer
pursued her way across the vast Atlantic, that,
although her water-path was trackless, we were yet
hastening from mountain to mountain, across or along
valleys, over table lands, and, in short, all the ir-
regularities of the ocean-floor. Recent soundings tell

c 2

A VACATION TOUR.

us the Atlantic basin is a vast trough, bounded on
the one side by America, and on the other side by
Africa; and that rising out of this trough are moun-
tains higher than the loftiest snow-crowned Hima-
layas, from peak to peak of which huge whales hold
their course with the same precision* with which
eagles pass from crag to crag; and valleys deeper
than any trodden by the foot of man, within whose
oozy folds the great waters lie in perpetual repose.
Depths have been sounded in the Atlantic greater
than the elevation of any mountain above its surface,
not far, moreover, from the track we are pursuing.

While on the banks we had wretched weather;
dense fogs wrapped our ship in gloom, and it was so
cold as to cause us to cluster round the smoke-pipe.
On the tenth day we caught a glimpse of Cape Race,
looming dark and mysterious through the diluted
mist. Fishing craft now began to appear; one of
which, by the way, was very nearly run down by us
during the night ; and small land birds rested their
weary wings on board, allowing themselves to be
caught with the gi-eatest facility. During this an-
xious period of navigation our captain kept constant

HI y-

* It is supposed that some whales, which pursue a perfectly
straight course for many miles, are guided by the mountain
peaks beneath them.

VIEW FROM THE CITADEL.

watch. About noon of the eleventh day we emerged
from the gloom through which we had been voyaging,
and saw before us the magnificient harbour of Hali-
fax, into which we were running at full speed. The
effect was enchanting. Dark-green spruce-forests,
which emitted a delicious balsamic perfume, clad the
coasts, which swelled into undulating hills in the
distance, canopied by a sky of unclouded blue, and
the bay was dotted with strange-looking boats. Pre-
sently we ran along a line of wharves covered with
piles of cod-fish and barrels, until we came to our
moorings, where all Halifax appeared to be assembled.
And now commenced a bewildering scene of confu-
sion, from which I quickly escaped, being delighted to
exchange the confinement of the ship for an hour's run
on shore. Accompanied by some fellow-passengers, I
rushed to the Citadel, where we produced great ex-
citement by communicating the latest war intelligence,
and then mounted the heights, from whence there is
a glorious view. Every object wore a novel aspect.
The trees were different, the houses unlike our own,
the flowers new, and, to make the change still more
striking, tiny humming-birds flashed like streaks of
golden light before us. These fairy visitants from
distant Florida, which have hitherto defied captivity
in Europe, made me forcibly aware I was now indeed

c 3

A VACATION TOUK.

far from home. Of Halifax there is but little to bo
said, and that little is truly and well related by
" Sam Slick," who is familiar with the town whicli
he thus describes:—" A few sizeable houses, with a
proper sight of small ones, like half-a-dozen old hens
with their brood of young chicl.^ns." Gallantry,
liowever, ought to have prompted him to add that
the girls are pretty, a fact well known by officers
who have been quartered here. But the great
living feature of the place are the troops of noble
Newfoundland dogs, with huge bushy tails and
shining black hair, which are met with in all parts of
the town. They are principally fed on fish ; here a
drug, seeing there are annually exported from Halifax
about 500,000 barrels and boxes of dried cod.
Should the fish-crop fail and the inhabitants ever
suffer the horrors of a siege, they might hold out a
long time by subsisting on their dogs.

Soon, too soon, the signal gun summoned us on
board again, where we found the decks encum-
bered with a chaotic heap of coals, ice, and lobsters.
Anotlier gun announced the arrival of the mail; the
gangway was removed, and we steamed out of the
harbour as the sun was sinking in a flood of golden
and purple glory beneath the western wave.

The remainder of the voyage (560 miles) was most

AMERICAN PECULIARITIES.

prosperous. The Bay of Fundy, which bears a terrible
reputation for its stormy waters, was, during our
passage across it, as smooth as a mirror; and thus, with
the happy prospect of soon reaching our destination,
even the most sallow- visaged among us wore a cheer-
ful appearance. With the object, it is to be presumed,
of exhibiting'the extraordinary resources of the cuisine,
our last dinner eclipsed all its predecessors in excel-
lence and abundance. Salmon as fresh as the day they
were captured appeared at the head each table, and,
after an endless succession of dishes and entremetSy
wonderful artistic confectionery, displaying amicable
relations between the United States and Great Britain,
graced the board. As my English friends had left
the ship at Halifax, I foivnd myself on the last
evening of our voyage in company with some half-
dozen Americans. My purpose in visiting the United
States being well known, considerable anxiety was
manifested to impress me with an exalted idea of the
country, which, I was assured over and over again,
I should find a model of earthly perfection.

Whatever 1 may have thought of certain spots and
blemishes in the constitution of the United States,
the odds were too fearful against me to render it
cither desirable or prudent to enter into political
argument, and, indeed, I only allude to the matter

c 4

A VACATION TOUR.

nir" i
'Hi' -i

h'fl

'" i:^ ■■''

.if

it jj
t i 4

because it confirms in rather an amusing manner the
stories so often told of American national vanity. So,
declaring I anticipated much pleasure from mv
travels in their ffreat country (the double sense of this
adjective is particularly serviceable to the English
tourist in the United States), I,

" Smiling, put the question by,"

and begged leave to drink to our next merry meeting,
assuring them that,

" Never shall my soul forget

The friends I found so cordial-hearted;
Bear shall be the day we met,
And dear shall be the night we parted."

Th litrell rence that we should be in Boston by
dawi. : - ht me on ^eck in time to see the sun
rise m crimoon majesty just as we were steaming
into the outer harbour. Early as it was, nearly all
the passengers were on the alert. A change had
come over some of them which was almost ludicrous.
The American ladies, with that sensitive regard for
outward adornment which characterises them, had
exchanged their sober sea-garments for robes of
dazzling hues, in which, with bonnets of gaudy tex-

AMERICAN PECULIARITIES.

ture, and a super-abundance of jewellery, they pro-
menaded the deck. It seemed as if we had embarked
a company of gaily-dressed ladies bound on a party
of pleasure ; for nothing could be greater than the
contrast between our female friends as they had
become familiar to us, and as they now appeared in
their butterfly attire.

Compared with our bold western coasts, the eastern
shores of America are very tame. Low land stretches
as far as the eye can reach, skirted by small islands,
between which lies the sinuous passage to Boston.
Faithfully remembering the picturesque cliffs of the
Emerald Isle, I confess I was considerably astonished
by one of the patriotic Americans passing his arm
through mine, and, pointing to the thin line of coast
scarcely discernible from the sky, asking at the same
time whether " that was not fine?" This large and
rather unceremonious demand on my admiration per-
plexed me ; for, unwilling on the one hand to offend,
stepping on the threshold of hi? country, I was
equally unprepared to assent to his proposition.
Without compromising my regard for truth, I an-
awered in a manner which I trusted would relieve
me from all further questions of a like nature ; but I
was disappointed ; and I do not exaggerate when I

A VACATION TOUR.

I ii;

state there was scarcely an object on land or water
was not called upon to admire. This distressing
pertmacty to worm from me praise when really, as
■t appeared to me, none was merited, recalled to mind
a story told of a similarly exacting American, who,
after sundry abortive attempts to exact admiration
from Lord Metcalfe, who had just arrived in Ame-
rica durmg the winter season, exclaimed, « Well I
guess you'll allow that this is a clever body of snow
lor a younip country ? "

As winter was not in the ascendant at the time of
my visit, there v,: ; no snow to be lauded ; but I half
expected, when my admiration hung fire, that my
persecutor would have appealed to me whether the
sun was not redder and hotter than in England -a
proposition which would have gained my immediate
assent. As it was, I fear my coldness was annoying,
as, probably with the view of taking h.s revenge,
he pointed to the sea on onr starboard, inform-
ing me, with a triumphant tone, " There, sir, we
tlirew in the tea;" an act which, though perpetrated
as far bach ns 17V3, is remen.bered witl, great satis-
faction by all patriotic Yankees ; and lest my know-
hdeo of that transaction was insufficient to make me
fMy aware of the bold independence of the American

ATMOSPHERE OF BOSTON.

character, the republican — still linked to my arm —
raised his hand from the saline tea-pot, and drew
my attention to a tall, chimney-like structure,
crowning North Boston heights. Conceiving the
object was attached to some large factory, I ha-
zarded a remark to that effect, which elicited the
exclamation, and with considerable warmth, " No, sir,
that is the famous Bunker-Hill monument, erected "
— but I spare my readers the rest; not that they
would, I feel assured, wince under the announcement
that the monument is a landmark of honourable
American independence, but that they have had
enough of little national weaknesses.

How long these would have been indul-^ed in I know
not ; but happily we were now fast approaching our
destination. Small, gaily- painted craft, differing in
their rig from our coasting vessels, danced lightly
over tlie green waters, mingling here and there with
noble ships arriving and departing.

The delicious purity of the atmosphere cast a
charm over the scene, which increased in interest as
we approached the pier. Early as was the hour, our
guns, which had been fired on entering the harbour,
attracted a crowd of persons to witness our arrival.
After threading fleets of merchant ships, the engines

A VACATION TOUR.

rested from their labours at the landing-place of the
Ounard steamers, which is at East Boston: and as
soon as the gangway was adjusted, I stepped on shore,
hankful that, after many a long daydream, I was at
length m the United States.

CHAP. II.

CURIOUS VEHICLES. — CUSTOM HOUSE. — REVERE HOTEL.

BREAKFAST. — CONTRAST BETWEEN AMERICAN AND
ENGLISH HOTELS. — RAPID WASHING. — OLD BOSTON. —

STATE HOUSE COMMERCE— FANEUIL HALL. — FRESH

POND ICE CROP AND ICE TRADE. — AGRICULTURE

NEAR BOSTON.— VALUE OF LAND.— WAGES.— AL-FRESCO

TEA. — FIRE-FLIES — NAHANT STEAMBOAT. — LIFE

PRESERVERS. — ACCIDENTS. — VISIT TO MR. LONG-
FELLOW. — PROFESSOR AGASSJZ GEOLOGY OF NAHANT.

— SALEM. — MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES

SEA COAST. — VISIT TO MR. PRESCOTT. — NAHANT

HOUSE. — THE FLIRTATION GALLERIES. — BATHING.

LAURA BRIDGMAN. — LOWELL. — THE " YOUNG LADIES."

MANUFACTURES LAWRENCE — MOUNT AUBURN. PIANO

FACTORY. — SCHOOLS.— NEW THEATRE. — CITY LIBRARY.

— EXCITEMENT RESPECTING SLAVERY QUINCY's SPEECH.

— THE " KNOW-NOTHING " MOVEMENT.

Kemembering the long voyage, the effects of which
were manifest in the erratic motion of my legs, it was
startling to hear English spoken on all sides. There
were, however, some novel and strange features in
the scene ; the strangest being a wonderful contriv-
ance called a stage, slung on two enormous leather
straps, which passed completely under it. The panels
were curiously carved and painted, and the interior

A VACATION TOUR.

,»Hf

ingeniously fitted -fixed, in Yankee phraseology-to
contain nine persons seated on tlircc cross-seats. The
whole affiur looked so antiquated, I thought it must
have been imported from England in the days of our
forefathers. There were several of these coaches
waiting \Kd, before we could avail ourselves of their
services, u , had to pass the ordeal of the Custom
House. This, thanks to excellent management, and
great civility on the part of the officials, was an easy
operation.

A baggage-entry certificate was placed in my
hands, which I was directed to fill up; and having
solemnly, sincerely, and truly declared that my
luggage consisted only of wearing apparel, it was
at once passed. The words « so help me God," in
large typo, giy^i the declaration a solemnity which,
it is presumed, impresses travellers with proper awe,'
and may in some cases prevent them making a false
declaration.

Now came a wonderful packing scene, which in my
case terminated by finding myself in one of the afore-
said stages with eight Americans, with whom I drove
to the Revere House, which enjoys -and justly-the
reputation of being the best hotel in Boston.

Much as I liad heard respecting American hotels,
I confess the gigantic reality of the Revere House

BILL OF FATIE.

greatly exceeded my expectations. Before making
my toilette, 1 indulged in the luxury of a warm bath,
which was ready at a moment's notice ; and, having
dressed, I sought the eating saloon, a magnificent
apartment, tastefully decorated with fresco paintings,
where I enjoyed a breakfast, affording such abundant
choice, that I transcribe the bill of fare as a specimen
of the variety in the commissariat department of
American hotels.

Broiled.— Beef steaks— pork steaks— mutton chops
— calf's liver — sausages — ham — squabs. ^ried.~
Pig's feet — veal and mutton kidneys — sausages —
tripe— salt pork— hashed meat. i^isA— Cod-fish with
pork—fish balls— hashed fish— fresh salmon— broiled
mackerel— broiled smoked salmon— Digby herrino-—
halibut— perch with pork. ^^7^/5.— Boiled— skinned—
fried- scambled— dropped. Omelets.-^FMn,with par-
sley, onions, and ham— kidneys -cheese. Potatoes.—
Stewed-fried-baked. Bread.— Hot rolls-Graham
rolls— Graham bread -brown bread -dry and dipped
toast — hominy — fried Indian puddimr - cracked
wheat — corn cake- girdle cake. And for beverage,
tea, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, and iced milk. Here, I
think, it will be granted, is a choice of good things
sufficient to puzzle the r .st determined gastronomist ;
and if the articles which I did not taste were as good

A VAJATION TOUR.

as those of which I partook, the most fastidious person
could not find fault with the cuisine of Revere House.
Indeed, it is impossible to conceive a greater con-
trast than is presented by an English and an Ame-
rican hotel; the first comparatively small, quiet,
dingy, and expensive ; the latter vast, noisy, glaring,
and, for the accommodation offered, moderate in
charge ; for, taking into account that a guest is pro-
vided with three meals daily of infinite variety, a
bedroom, and the use of handsome drawing and
reading rooms, two and a-half dollars, or half-a-guinea
a-day, including attendance, is clearly a moderate
charge.

The interior economy of these large establish-
ments is extremely curious. Those fond of studying
human character would find abundant occupation
without stirring from the hall, as from early morn
until late at night there is a perpetual coming and
going of all manner of people. This constant surging
human tide, ebbing and flowing in large waves
through the entrance hall, is felt in even the most
retired parts of the house. But what would be
wearisome and harassing to an Englishman is appa-
rently pleasant to our Transatlantic friends, who seem
only in their element when in a noisy crowd. These
huge establishments do duty as boarding-houses as

AMERICAN HOTELS.

well as hotels, large portions being devoted to families,
who rent rooms by the year, month, or week, and
take their meals at the public tables. For the accom-
modation of these guests, there are suites of apart-
ments superbly furnished, designated the ladies'
drawing-rooms, but to which gentlemen have easy
access ; for the doors, in summer at least, are never
closed. Here groups of ladies congregate, in wonder-
fully rich and gay dresses, reclining on damask-
covered sofas, or lounging in the universal rocking-
chair, —a few reading, or playing the piano, but the
majority passing a dolce far niente kind of existence,
which would be insupportable to the thrifty and
domestic English wife. I had heard so much of the
American bar-room, that I felt considerable curiosity
to see one of these places. The bar attached to the
Revere House is a large and handsome apartment,
furnished with a number of easy chairs and loungers,
having a counter across one end, on which stand
numerous bottles and decanters, containing the in-
gredients for the infinite variety of drinks patronised
by Americans. It is worthy of remark that cus-
tomers are allowed to help themselves to as much
spirits as they please; and although this practice
might be supposed to lead to excess, such a result
is not the case; the consequences being, less is

A VACATION TOUR.

drunk at a sitting, — or rather standing, — though the
bar is more frequently visited. Thus the interests of
the proprietors of these dramshops are better served
by their apparent liberality ; and the Bostonians, in
one respect at least, follow the advice contained in
the distich, —

" Solid men of Boston make no long orations ;
Solid men of Boston drink no strong potations."

The usual charge for a drink is a dime, or ten cents,
equal to sixpence ; and, when it is remembered that
the bar is frequented from morning till night, it may
be imagined this department of the hotel is highly
profitable.

Within a short distance of the bar, and generally
on the same floor, is the barber's shop, without which
no American hotel would be perfect. This apart-
ment, conspicuous by a large barber's pole, gaily
painted, over the dour, is^ fitted with especial regard
to the comfort of its hahituh, comprising the ma-
jority of the male guests of the hotel, who are in
the habit of submitting their faces and hair daily to
the practised hands of black barbers. Reclining in
velvet-covered chairs, with their feet on high rests,
cushioned and covered with the same material, these
luxurious Americans are operated on by the negroes

RAPID WASHING.

in a most artistic manner ; and a process which is ge-
nerally unpleasant, if not positively painful, becomes,
under their hands, easy and delightful.

Such are a few of the more striking features in
American hotel life, as first seen by me at the Revere
House ; and while every provision is made to meet
Jonathan's requirements, his go-ahead propensities
are equally studied,— a fact of which I had early
experience. Before breakfast, I left a large bundle
of linen in my room, with orders that it might be
washed by the following day. Happening to return
to my chamber in about a couple ^f hours, I found,
to my infinite astonishment, all my linen, beautifully
washed, on the bed; and on expressing surprise at
the quickness with which the operation had been
effected, I was assured it could have been equally
well accomplished in fifteen minutes. This led i-'j
to cast a reproachful glance at my plethoric port-
manteau, into which I had, with considerate thought-
fulness for clean-linen comfort, stowed a dozen shirts,
with other linen in like profusion. Why, when a
wardrobe of dirty clothes can be converted into spot-
less purity in a few minutes, lying in bed while a
shirt is washing is no hardship. And let it not be
supposed my informant exaggerated. At a subse-
quent period of my travels, I had the curiosity to

D 2

A VACATION TOUR.

visit the laundry attached to a large hotel, for the
purpose of seeing how this magic-like ablution is
performed. The secret consists in using a variety of
ingenious contrivances, and employing numerous
girls, who have each a part to perform ; so that a
shirt which begins its rapid journey in a state of deep
mourning, speedily assumes a lighter complexion, and
emerges from the hands of the active maidens and
machines in a few minutes, fit to do duty in a
Saratoga ball-room. This, as the Yankees say, " is
a fact ;" and it is equally true that the charge for this
rapid washing is a dollar per dozen articles, which
is not reduced if a slower process be adopted.

Impatience to sec the New -World city in which I
had landed forbade my remaining longer in my
hotel ; and accordingly, provided with my letters of
introduction, I started to explore the town, peculiarly
interesting to an Englishman, it having been founded
by those sturdy Puritans who went forth from their
Father Land bearing the flag of civil and religious
liberty. I emerged on the common, — a large open
space planted with trees, surrounded on three sides
by some of the best private dwelling-houses of the citi-
zens. A great charm is given to these residences —
which happily are not smoke-canopied— by the rich-
hued flowers of the creepers mantling the walls, and

BOSTON STATE HOUSE, ETC.

graceful acacias, silver maples, sumachs, and other
trees which cast a graceful shade before the doors.
It is wortliy of remark that the public seats in the
park arc covered with sheet-iron, to preserve them
from the whittling propensities common in the States.
At the upper end of the common is the State House,
from the summit of which I enjoyed a glorious
panoramic view of Boston; and in order that this
varied and really fine scene may duly impress
American visitors, an inscription meets the eye, enu-
merating various important national events and acts,
no*, omitting the drowning of the tea, and concluding
with these words : —

** Americans, while from this eminence scenes of
luxuriant fertility, of flourishing commerce, and the
abodes of social happiness meet your view, forget not
those who, by their exertions, have secured to you
these blessings."

Descending the slope on which Boston is built, I
came to the business part of the city, and found in
Washington Street nearly as much bustle as exists
in one of our great London arteries. The omnibuses
are particularly striking, from their gay decorations
and the absence of conductors, whose functions are
performed by the driver. He has full command over
the door by means of a leather strap, buckled to his

D 3

A VACATION TOUI?.

right leg ; serving at the same time as a check-string.
He feels a tug— the strap is slackened— the door opens
— and the passenger, handing up the fare through a
hole in the roof, alights and goes his way. Ihds the
services of a conductor are dispensed with ; and in the
case of private carriages driven by their owners, who
are rarely accompanied by a servant, I observed when
the carriage stopped the horse was anchored by a
leather strap to a leaden weight placed on the trottoir.
Continuing my explorations, I came to the streets
adjoining the wharves, fringed by stately ships and
numerous smaller craft. These streets are lined by
huge warehouses, tlie majority of which contain piles
of boots and shoes,— 37,000,000 dollars being the
present annual value of these articles manufactured
in Massachusetts alone. The feverish pulse of com-
merce throbs in every vein of this part of Boston,
which was literally encumbered by bales and boxes
to such a degree, as to render passage through them
extremely difficult. On my way back I visited
Faneuil Hall, celebrated as the meeting-place of
democrats ; and the adjoining market-house, where
the various edibles, instead of being exposed to view,
repose in enviable coolness in Iirge boxes filled with
ice.

I now delivered my letters of introduction, which

FRESH POND.

called forth an amount of hospitality that made my
sojourn at Boston highly instructive and agreeable.
The breaches of courtesy which have unhappily
marked the journals of travellers, who frequently re-
pay kindness and courtesy by publishing private and,
in many cases, confidential conversations, render me
particularly desirable not to offend in this respect;
and I shall, therefore, only state I had the happiness
of sharing the hospitality of families well known in
England for their literary attainments.

I was indebted to Mr. Brown, the head of the
celebrated publishing house, for a most agreeable day
speht at his beautiful country seat, about ten miles
from Boston. On our way we visited Fresh Pond,
a lovely sheet of water, which in our little island
would rank as a lake. The water, rising from springs
of crystalline purity, changes under the magic hand
of frost to ice of exquisite transparency. Vast store-
houses, to contain this luxury, constructed of double
wooden walls lined with tan, are built on the shores,
some of which were still full of ice.

The ice-crop has become an immense article of
commerce in the United States. The trade was
commenced in 1805, by Mr. Tudor, who sent a ship
freighted with ice to the West Indies in that year,
and soon after extended his operations to other coun-

n 4

A VACATION lOUK.

tries. Boston is the great seat of the ice-trade,— all
the lakes and pond, near the city being put under
requisition to meet the consumption ; which, however,
13 so great and increasing, that additional lakes are in
course of formation. Some idea of the enormous
demand for this commodity may be formed from the
fact that, while the quantity shipped in 1832 was 4352
tons, m 1852 it had risen to nearly 200,000 tons.
Many ingenious machines are employed for cutting
the ice, which in favourable seasons attains a thick-
ness of twenty-four inches. The average yield is
1000 tons per acre. It is necessary to live in an
American summer temperature to .appreciate the
luxury, or necessity rather, of ice. Throughout the
btates It ,s as common as water. Walking through
Boston at six in the morning, I saw a Large block
dropped at every door. Four dollars is p.aid for a
regular daily supply of ice during the five summer
months. Besides the consumption for domestic pur-
poses, vast quantities are used for preserving pro-
visions, the price being only 16 cents for 100 lbs.
Before the great ice-eommerce had been established,
much inconvenience was felt by the serious ob-
struetions occasioned by the sawdust cast into rivers
as rubbish, from the sawmills. Now, sawdust being
fonnd the very best preservative of ice, there is a

AGRICULTURE NEAR BOSTON.

constant demand for it, and the rivers are, conse-
quently, no longer obstructed.

After an early dinner, at which I was introduced
to the delicious Catawba champagne grown in Ohio,
Mr. Brown drove me through his farms, — among the
most productive in the neighbourhood of Boston.
The usual crops are corn, hay, carrots, pumpkins,
apples, besides cheese and butter. I heard of one
farm which numbers 103 acres, 6 being under-
wood, and 97 pasture and arable, where the ex-
pense of cultivation for one year was 1003 dollars,
and the amount arising from the sale of the produce
2760 dollars, leaving a profit of 1757 dollars. Land
which, ten years ago, was only worth 40/. per acre,
is now worth 200Z., and is annually increasing in
value. The pay of labourers is a dollar and a
quarter per day. The absence of trim hedges strikes
the eye accustomed to them in England. The
buckthorn (osmunda spectabilis) partly supplies the
want; and when planted close, is, by its terrible
armour of thorns, an effectual barrier ajainst tres-
passers. The primeval forest has disappeared in this
locality, but the distant hills are still clothed with
ancient trees ; and only twenty years have elapsed
since a wild turkey was shot in the neighbourhood of
Mr. Brown's house.

A VACATION TOUR.

Having made a considerable circuit, I found myself
in the evening seated under the verandah of a charm-
ing house, inhabited hy a relation of Mr. Brown,
with a large family gathering round an al-/resco tj,
at which a great variety of American fruits and pre-
serves were handed round. The scene reminded me
of Italy ; and the illusion was strengthened by the
balmy atmosphere, a sunset of great glory, and fire-
flies which played round us as we drove back to Mr.
Brown's house at a late hour of the night.

The following morning I returned to Boston, and
embarked on board a steamer for Nahant, a fashion-
able watering-place about eight miles from the city,
much resorted to by the Bostonians. The object of
this excursion was to spend the day with Mr. Long-
fellow, who had kindly invited me to his summer
residence.

On this occasion I was introduced to an American
coasting and river steamer. Built as lightly as pos-
sible, the engine, working partly above deck, impels
these boats about eighteen miles an hour. The
saloons, of which there are always two, are very
elegantly furnished; that devoted to the ladies
abounding with every kind of luxurious seat. In
strange contrast with this expensive refinement, is the
closely.packed store of life-preservers, which, like the

NAHANT.

skeleton in the Egyptian banquet-halls, reminds one
of death. These life-prese . jrs, which the law compels
every steamer to carry, are placed in an accessible
part of the ship, and, as newspapers inform us, are
unfortunately in frequent requisition. Indeed, so
common are boiler explosions on board American
steamers on the western waters, that it is customary
for experienced passengers to assemble in the after-
part of the ship when the engines are started, as it is
generally at that moment boilers give way.*

Nahant is a singular-looking place, consisting of a
long and narrow rocky tongue projecting into the
blue waters of the Atlantic. It is dotted by small
cottages, built in utter defiance of all sesthetic archi-
tectural principles, surrounded by tiny enclosures of
sward, and carries at its extremity an hotel of such
gigantic proportions, as at first sight to give rise to
the idea that the superincumbent weight must sub-
merge the peninsula. In one of these cottages,
somewhat less ugly than its neighbours, I found Mr.
and Mrs. Longfellow, and received from them a
welcome corresponding in every way to their reputa-
tion for amiability and hospitality. Seldom, indeed.

* Official returns state that, during 1852, 292 disasters
occurred among the passenger-sliips on the western riTers in
America, involving a loss of 750 lives.

A VACATION TOUK.

havo I met witli any person possessing a greater
power of making t],o stranger feel at liomo than this
celebratocl poet. Accompanied by Iiim, I called on
Professor Agassiz, to whom I Imd a letter of intro-
auction from my friend Professor Owen. This visit
was highly agreeable and instructive ; for we found
the enu'nent Professor at work on his cmbryological
investigations, which have occupied his time during
the last fifteen years. His position is admirably
adapted ftu' these interesting researches, as the dispo-
sition of the rocks provides hiu), at low water, with
an infinite number of m/w^rm, abounding with marine
animals. During the sununer months, t'le Professor,
who holds a chair in Harvard University, where he
habitually resides, devotes his time to this favourite
braiudi of natural history,~having, at his father-in-
law's cottage at Nahant cycry facility for the study.
Nahant also presents a rich field to the geologist.
I reuKMuber with much pleasure a walk along the
cliffs with IMr. Longfellow and Professor Agassiz,
during which the latter drew my attention to the
curious geological features of the place, and particu-
larly to the rocks of hornblende and syenite, tra-
versed by veins of greenstone and basalt, exhibiting
polished grooves and furrows, indicative of glacial
action.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS A.ND SHOES.

After an early dinner (our Transatlantic cousins
have the good sense to abjure supper-hour dinners),
Mr. Longfellow drove me with his wife to Lynn and
Salem, about eight miles distant on the coast, famous
for the prodigious number of boots and shoes manu-
factured by their industrious population. In 1853,
Lynn alone produced 4,952,300 pairs of boots and
shoes. The materials are furnished by head manu-
facturers at Boston to the shoemakers, who are paid
by the piece. Full employment can always be ob-
tained by competent workmen. Binders earn from 3
to 4 dollars, and workmen from 3 to 9 dollars, per
week ; the amount depending on their ability and dis-
position for labour. In 1853, more than seven thou-
sand women were employed at Lynn binding shoes.
The specimens of boots and shoes contributed to the
Exhibition at New York are stated to have illustrated,
in a satisfactory manner, the skill and ingenuity em-
ployed in this department of industry. Great taste
is displayed in ladies' shoes ; whilst the excellence of
workmanship, especially in gentlemen's boots, shows
how thoroughly the division of labour in this manu-
facture is favourable to satisfactory results. The
aptitude of Americans to turn their abilities and time
to the best account, is strikingly exemplified by the
circumstance that many farmers fill up their leisure

A VACATION TOUR.

time by shoemaking and cabinet-making, especially
in winter, when out-door labour cannot be per-
formed. Many farmers contrive to pay their rent
by the proceeds of their handicraft.

The scenery of the Lynn coast reminded me
strongly of that in Lincolnshire. Vast reaches of
ribbed sand are covered by sea-weed,—

"Ever drifting, drifting, drifting,
On the shifting
Currents of the restless main ;
Till in sheltered coves and reaches

Of sandy beaches,
Here has found repose again."

Marine villas occupy every desirable locality along
the coast. One of these belongs to Mr. Preset I, the
historian, with whom we spent the evening. Our
conversation soon took a literary tun., principally in
relation to the vexed question of copyright ; and it so
happened, while we were deep in argument, Mr. Pres-
cott received letters from England, informing him
that the decision of the House of Lords being adverse
to a foreigner possessing copyright in England, his
bargain with a London publisher for a new historical
work, for which he was to have been paid 6000/.,
had become void. Some men would have exhibited

NAHANT HOUSE.

disappointment at this reverse of fortune : whatever
Mr. Prescott may have felt, it is due to him to state
his kind manner underwent no change on the receipt
of the intelligence. The reader will be gratified to
know that, although the eyesight of this eminent his-
torian is dim, he can yet see sufficiently to write with
the aid of a frame. It was late when we returned to
Nahant, and later when I arrived at the large hotel,
where I hi;d secured a bed. Here I had an opportu-
nity of seeing the Bostonians to great advantage.
Accompanied by Mr. Longfellow's brother-in-law, I
visited the drawing-rooms, — superbly furnished apart-
ments, — where some 200 ladies and gentlemen were
assembled. The change was startling. A few
minutes before,'! had been creeping, through the dark
night, along the edge of the rugged cliffs, and now I
was in the midst of a gay ball, which had this pecu-
liarity, that while the ladies, who were young and
pretty, were dressed as assuredly only American
ladies dress, the men, for the most part, were attired
in morning garments. The saloons were brilliantly
illuminated ; and some idea of the scale and economy
of these American hotels may be formed from the
fact, that gas is specially manufactured for Nahant
House, and laid on in every bedroom.

While an excellent band set many feet in motion.

A VACATION TOUR.

the outer galleries were occupied by parties, including
numerous couples, who, by their demeanour, showed
these convenient localities are not inappropriately
named 'Hhe flirtation galleries:' I was greatly
amused, the following morning, observing the ladies
bathing ; for as they are attired for the double pur-
pose, as I presume, of bathing and being seen, there
is no impropriety whatever in looking at the fair
creatures in the water. The garments worn on these
occasions are of the gpyest colours, consisting of a
Bloomer kind of costume, in which the upper part
contrasts strongly with the lower. The head is ge-
nerally surmounted by a quaintly-shaped white cap,
which seems to have made a deep impression on the
author of a poem on Nahant, who says,—

" Still where the sea beats on the shore,
I sit and drink its music in— .
The music of its thunder-roar,
And watch the white caps swirling o'er,
The blue waves restless evermore."

In truth, it is a strange scene ; and does not abate in
interest when the ladies emerge from the water, in
their gaudy costumes, exhibiting trowsers of all
colours, and countless pairs of little white feet, twin-
kling on the sand. This early bathing must be as

ill

LAURA BRIDGMAN.

conducive to health as it is to an exhilaration of
spirits ; for, during my travels, I saw no ladies
with such glowing complexions as those at Nahant.
In the words of an American enthusiast, — " They
come down to breakfast after their bath, freshened
up, looking as sweet and dewy as an avalanche
of roses."

The tourist, not pressed for time, may spend a few
days most pleasantly at Nahant. From its position,
it is constantly fanned by cool sea-breezes, which
modify the great summer heats. Inclination prompted
me to remain another day, particularly as I received
a pressing invitation to dine with Mr. Prescott. My
plans, however, obliged me to return to Boston where
I had yet to see some celebrities. Among these,
were Laura Bridgman, and that nearly equal wonder,
Oliver Caswell. The asylum for the blind, where
the triumph of educating these persons has been
achieved, is about two miles from Boston. I found
Laura and her companion seated on a sofa, conversing'
with a rapidity perfectly bewildering, the process
being carried on by simply pressing the fingers on
the palm of the hand. Laura, who is now twenty-f
six years of age, manifests so high an amount of
intellectuality that considerable apprehension is en-
tertained respecting her health, which is not very

A VACATION TOUR.

good. Her frame is slight, and when excited during
conversation the convulsive twitchings of the mus-
cles in her forehead are most painful to witness.
Strong exercise tends to tranquillise her, and fortu-
nately she is not unwilling to walk several hours
daily. She purposes writing her life. The dawnings
of intellectual consciousness will doubtless form a
singular psychological feature. The task of edu-
cating Oliver Caswell, who is younger than Laura,
was very arduous. The latter is far quicker; as an
instance of which she wrote her name in my note-
book in half the time occupied by Oliver in the same
operation.

Furnished with letters from Mr. Abbott Lawrence,
I visited Lowell, famous for its factories belonging
to a corporation, and for its factory girls, better
known by the more elegant title of the " young ladies "
of Lowell. About an hour's railway drive brought
me to that phenomenon to an Englishman, a smoke-
less factory town canopied by an Italian sky. Here,
water, pure, sparkling, and mighty in strength, from
the Merrimack river, does the duty of steam-en-
gines, driving huge wheels and turbines attached to
enormous factories. To describe these is unnecessary,
as they differ but little in their internal economy
from those in our manufacturing districts. There

LOWELL.

are eight manufacturiiig corporations and thirty-five
mills, which produce 2,139,000 yards of piece-goods
weekly, consisting of sheetings, shirtings, drillings,
and printing cloths. These are fully equal in quality
to similar goods maimfactured in England. Not
being in the trade, the " young ladies " interested me
more than the spinning-jennies or looms ; and, before
I had gone through one mill, I was ready to admit
that the difference between a Manchester factory
girl and a Lowell " young lady," is great indeed.
The latter is generally good-looking, often pretty,
dresses fashionably, wears her hair a Vlmpdratrice, or
ci la Chinoise, and takes delight in finery, and flowers,
which give a gay appearance to the factory rooms.
But it would be unfair to institute a comparison
between the Manchester and Lowell factory girl ; as
the former is born in that hard school where work is
a life-long taskmaster, while the latter is generally
the daughter or relative of a substantial farmer, who
enters the mills for the purpose of gaining a little
independence, and seldom remains there more than a
few years. Thus the employment takes higher rank
than with us, and the "young ladies" live in a
manner that would greatly astonish an liinglish
factory girl. Requesting permission to see one of
the Lowell boarding-houses, where the " young

E 2

A VACATION TOUR.

Ibl

ladies " reside, I was directed to the establishment
usually shown to visitors; but, conceiving it desirable
to step aside from the beaten track, I knocked at
the door of a different house. The residences of
the "young ladies" are excellent, forming rows
separated by wide streets, shaded by a profusion of
trees, and bright with flowers. My request to be
permitted to see the house did not meet with ready
assent. After some parley with the servant, the
mistress appeared, and made particular inquiries
respecting the object of .ny visit, adding, it was not
her custom to show her house to strangers. This
made me the more desirous of gaining admission ; and
having succeeded in satisfying the lady I was merely
a curious Englishman, she allowed me to enter, and
took great pains in showing me her establishment,
assuring me had she been aware of my visit she
would have put her house in order. But it needed
no preparation to convince me the " young ladies "
are admirably provided for. A large sitting-room
occupied a considerable portion of the basement floor,
beyond which was the refectory; above were airy
bedrooms, well furnished, containing from two to four
beds. The provisions, which my conductress insisted
I should taste, were excellent; and when I add the
"young ladies" arc waited on, and have their clothes

THE " YOUNG LADIES."

washed, with the exception of their laces, &c., which
they prefer washing themselves, it will be seen they
are very comfortable. For their board and lodging
they pay six dollars a month, one-sixth of which is
paid by the corporation ; and as their average earn-
ings are about three and a half dollars a week, it is evi-
dent that, if not extravagant in their dress, they have
it in their power to sa a considerable sum yearly.
But I fear, from the number of gay bonnets, parasols,
and dresses which I saw in tiie " young ladies' "
apartments, a large proportion of the weekly wages is
spent on these objects. At the same time it is right
to add that the strictest propriety reigns throughout
their community, comprising 1870 females; and it
was gratifying to hear that, although the famous
Lowell Offering periodical has been discontinued, the
books borrowed from the town library, for the use of
which half a dollar is paid yearly, are of a healthy
literary nature. The toial number of operatives at
Lowell when I visited it was nearly 10,000, and
their savings invested in the bank of deposit 1,104,000
dollars.

Mr. Lawrence informed me that the corporation
purpose building additional factories for weaving
coarse cloths, which can be sold cheaper than those
imported from England. At Lawrence, a new scat

£ 3

A VACATION TO UK.

of cotton manufacture, also situated on the Merri-
mack, it is intended to erect vast mills on the most
improved system. The Atlantic cotton mills, already
in operation at that place, turn out 300,000 yards of
cotton oloth weekly. The total capital invested in
the manufacture of cotton goods in Massachusetts,
amounts to 30,000,000 of dollars.

Among the lovely resting-places of the dead.
Mount Auburn, near Boston, eminently merits men-
tion ; and I cherish, with great pleasure, the remem-
brance of an evening spent there. On my way to it
I visited 3 -.rvard University at Cambridge, and
Longfellow's house, — historically interesting, as
having been the residence of Washington in 1775,
when he commanded the American army. The drive
to Mount Auburn is peculiarly English : fine elm-
trees, two centuries old, cast their graceful branches
across the road ; and villas, with trim gardens and
lawns, carry thoughts back to the old country. The
cemetery, about 300 acres in extent, is remarkable
for the picturesque disposition of the ground and
variety of trees: unhappily, however, man has
greatly marred these beauties by the frightful monu-
ments, cenotaphs, and obelisks raised over the tombs,
— sufficient to convict the American nation of being,
as yet, sadly ignc nt of artistic taste. It was rcallv

MOUNT AUBUKX.

a relief to turn from these wretched productions into
the cool glades, where lovely flowers blossomed
beneath the shade of cedars and cypresses, peopled
by shrill cicalas. Had the monuments been less
painful to the eye I should have dwelt longer among
them ; for some stand upon ground occupied by the
remains of men of whom America has reason to be
proud. Honour, too, is rendered to those who have
laboured in the cause of humanity ; and I was greatly
pleased that, in my hurry, I did not miss a monu-
ment bearing the following soul-stirring inscrip-
tion : —

" To the Memory of the Rev. Charles Torrey,
who died in the Penitentiary of Baltimore. He was
arrested for aiding slaves to regain their liberty. For
this humane act he was indicted as a criminal, con-
victed by the Baltimore City Court, and sentenced to
the Penitentiary for six years. While on his death-
bed he was refused a pardon by the governor of
Maryland ; and died of consumption, after two years'
confinement, a victim to his sufferings."

Nearly in the centre of the cemetery, and on the
summit of the mount, rises a tower, connnanding a
fine panoramic view, from which the silent abode of
death wears a beautiful appearance, for the re-
pulsive monumeuts arc shrouded by the thick woods.

E 4

A VACATION TOUR.

Undulating country, dotted by jflourisliing villages,
stretches far to the west ; gleaming lakes, which
produce the famous ice-crop, lying in the richly-
wooded hollows ; while on the east, Boston, with its
wide-spreading suburbs, and its restless tide of human
life, extends to the verge of the cemetery within
which the weary are at rest. Gazing on this picture,
flooded by the golden light of the setting sun, thought
recurred to that period, not far distant, when the
country fringing the Atlantic, where now mighty
cities throb with the energy of millions, was little
better than a trackless wilderness. In 1700, the
population of Boston was 7000; in 1840,83,000; and
in 1850, it had risen to 270,000.

All the establishments in this city are on a very
extensive scale. The educational institutions are
models of excellence. It is highly honourable to the
citizens that, in proportion to the population, a larger
sum is expended on education than by any other city
in the Union. In 1853, 1,200,000 dollars were in-
vested in schoolhouses ; and 300,000 dollars are
annually spent on educatior. But the returns
for the entire state of Massachusetts are more
striking ; as they show that, with a population of one
nn'llion, tiiere wore, in 1851, 3G87 schools, or one for
every two square miles, and an annual expenditure

BOSTON NEW TIIEATUE.

of 1,500,000 dollars for educational purposes. In all
the public institutions and private commercial esta-
blishments, great activity is very conspicuous.
The busy piano manufactory of the Chickerings,
which has been recently built on a scale to turn out
sixty pianos weekly, may be instanced as a specimen
of the gigantic nature of American enterprise. This
building occupies five acres ; 400 workmen are em-
ployed ; and the concern is so managed that, in the
figurative language of a publication describing it,
** forests enter at one end of the building, and come
out perfect pianofortes at the other ; " to which, how-
ever, should be added a little metal ; for, clever as
the Yankees are in the use of wood, it is to be appre-
hended that all their forests, with only their native
** brass," would make but a sorry piano.

The reproach which long attached to Boston, with
respect to its poor theatre, is now removed by the
erection of a magnificent structure, capable of con-
taining 4000 persons. I examined this building in
detail, and was much struck by the method em-
ployed to render it as perfect as possible. The seats
are disposed in such a manner that each commands
the stage ; and the latter embraces all modern im-
provements, including a curtain of sheet-iron to cut
off connniinication with the audience. Here my

A VACATION TO UK.

■ti^'

friends, the actors, with whom I had crossed the
Atlantic, were engaged to perform.

To the numerous literary institutions already ex-
isting in Boston, a public library has recently been
added, which is supported by city funds. The esta-
blishment is free to all inhabitants of Boston above
sixteen years of age, who are permitted to take books
from the library for home use. This great privilege
is duly valued. During three months in the spring
of 1854, 5000 persons were supplied with books.
The only guarantee required for their safety is a cer-
tificate from a householder, to the effect that the
party borrowing the book « is a fit person to enjoy
the privileges of the public library.*'

Before closing my experiences of this most pleasant
city, I must add, in justice to the Bostonians, that I
heard slavery frequently discussed and denounced
with great vehemence, in consequence of a recent
successful appeal to the authorities, requiring them to
restore a fugitive slave to his master. A slave,
superior to his fellows, had taken refuge in Boston.
His master, a southern planter, being apprised of the
circumstance, went to the city, and called upon the
mayor to restore his property to him. The latter
demurred, and the case was tried. Meanwhile, the
slave-owner lodging at the Revere House, Lnivc out he

EXCITEMENT RESPECTING SLAVERY.

was armed to the teeth, — which was the case, — and
that he would not leave Boston without his slave.
The citizens soon evinced their feeling in the matter ;
and when at last the law ordered the restitution of
the slave, a large armed force was obliged to be
called upon to protect the master. Meetings quickly
followed, for the purpose of expressing sentiments and
passing resolutions condemnatory of slavery in every
shape and form. At one of them the veteran Quincy
was present, and made a speech (for a copy of which
I am indebted to the Hon. Mr. Everett), which pro-
duced a powerful effect on the excited assemblage.
" 1 am here," he said, " as one who has now in this
world little to hope, and, I thank God, nothing to
fear ; who has behind him only the memory of the
past, and before him the opening grave. From such
an individual you have a right to expect words of
truth, duty, and soberness. What has been seen?
what has been felt, by every man, woman, and child
in this metropolis ? Wo have seen our Court House
in chains ; two battalions of dragoons, eight regiments
of artillery, twelve companies of infantry, the whole
constabulary force of the city police, the entire dis-
posable marine of the United States, with its artillery
loaded for action, all marching in support of a pr£e-
torian band, consisting of one hundred and twenty

A VACATION TOUK.

friends and associates of the United States Marshal,
with loaded pistols and drawn swords, and in military
costume and array,— and for what purpose? To
escort and conduct a poor trembling slave from a
Boston Court House to the fetters and lash of his
master." The peroration of the speech may be con-
ceived. I was assured the excitement was intense,
and the general impulse was to dissolve the union
with the Slave States at once.

The Bostonians have long been inimical to slavery.
As far back as 1645, the Court of Boston passed a
resolution, by which they "held themselves bound to
bear witness against the liaynus and crying sinne of
man-stealing, as also to prescribe such timely re-
dresses for what is past, and such a law for the future
as may deter others belonging to us to have to do in
such vile and most odious courses, justly abhorred of
all good and just men. And we do order that the
negro, with all others unlawfully taken, be, by the
first opportunity, at the charge of the country, sent
to his native country of Ginny, and a letter with him
of the iivlignation of the Corte thereabouts, and we
desire that our honored Governor will please put this
order in execution."*

* Copied from tlio oarly records of Massiichusctts.

THE " KNOW-NOTHING " MOVEMENT.

Throughout the Tew England States the public
voice is yearly heard louder in denunciation of
slavery. With so strong a feeling, the fine lines of
America's chief poet have peculiar significance : —

•

" Go on until this land revokes
The old and chartered Lie,
The feudal curse, whose whips and yokes
Insult humanity.

" Write ! and tell out this bloody tale ;
Record this dire eclipse,
This day of wrath, this endless wail.
This dread apocalypse ! "

Next to slavery, the new and curious " Know-
nothing " party was most frequently discussed. This
latest creation of American politicians, which I saw
described as

'' moving in a mysterious way

Its wondei's to pei'forni,"

is "'now, despite its title, pretty well known. The
birth of yesterday, the party has acquired a strength
and power absolutely startling. Their professed
object is to oppose the election of Koman Catholics,
and all who are not native Americans, into any office
in the States, and by every means in their power to
promote feelings of hatred and animosity against

A VACATION TOUR.

Popery. The immense preponderance of Protestants
over Papists in the United States, gives this in-
tolerance a mysterious character ; for as there we ;e
only 1112 Roman Catholic chapels in 1850 in the
States, and 35,711 Protestant churches, it is evident
Fopc^vy need not be dreaded. Indeed, Mr. Everett
assured me, religion was a secondary consideration
in " Know-nothingism." The party have three
newspaper organs. The principal one is called " The
Know-nothing and American Crusader," and has for
its motto " God and our country ! — Deeds not
words ! " surmounted by a youth, extending his right
hand to a star, and trampling the Papal tiara under
foot. The second is styled " The Mystery, pub-
lished nowhere, sold everywhere, edited by Nobody
and Know-nothing." Underneath are a large eye,
a nose, and the cypher 0. The third is entitled
" The Wide-awake and the Spirit of Washington,"
with the motto " God forbid, that we, their pos-
terity, should be recreant to their trust." These
publications are full of coarse and low invectives
against Roman Catholics, who are denounced as
enemies to the country of their adoption. Notice of
all elections is given, with directions who should be
supported. The movement is not confined to the
lower orders. A Boston gentleman told me that,

THE "know-nothing" movement.

having expressed opinions supposed to be in favour
of '* Know-nothingism," he was drawn aside by an
acquaintance, and informed if he desired to join the
party he might do so by going to a ho^ise which he
described on a certain night ; but he must bear in
mind that the oaths enjoining secrecy would have to
be taken. In the course of my tour, I had opportu-
nities of seeing the results of the " Know-nothing "
movement, which has penetrated to tho far west,
and, if I am not greatly mistaken, the Americans
have breathed life into a Frankenstein which will
occasion them much trouble.

A VACATION TOUlt.

CHAP. III.

Sift

'..c.

LEAVE BOSTON. — RAILWAY CARS. — COW-CATCHER. —
LOCOMOTIVES. — WATERING THE PASSENGERS. — PRECO-
CIOUS TRAVELLING COMPANION. — TROY SARATOGA. —

CONGRESS SPRING. — AMUSEMENTS. DINNER. — BLACK

WAITERS. — I'ROMENADE. — BALL. — LADIES* DRESSES.

MONROE. PLANK ROAD. — LAKE GEORGE. — SQUIRREL

HUNT. — RATTLESNAKES. — BASSE PISHING. — BEAUTIFUL

SCENERY. — LAST OF TlIE MOHICANS. — TICONDEROGA

FORT SMOKE FOG. — FORESTS ON FIRE. — LAKE CHAM-
PLAIN. — AWFUL DARKNESS. — DIFFICULT NAVIGATION. —

rouse's point. — TREMENDOUS FIRES RAILWAY DRIVE

THROUGH THE BUPtNING FORESTS. — OGDENSBURG. — A
FRIEND IN 'iFFICULTIES. — CROSS THE ST. LAWRENCE.

PRESCOTT. — CANADIAN VOYAGEURS. — STORY OP A

RAFT. — LEAVE PRESCOTT. — KINGSTON. — FORT HENRY. —
LAKE ONTARIO. — COBURG. — BUTTER MERCHANT. — LEAVE
FOR PETERBOROUGH. — HOUSELESS TOAVN. — THE OTONA-
BEE. — ARRIVE AT PETERBOROUGH.

Bearing in mind that a traveller, to his vexation,
has often to wait for his bill at an English hotel, I
applied for mine early on the morning of my departure
from the Revere. But I now learned that, with
the universal desire to economise time, hotel bills
are dispensed with in the States. The bar-keeper
informed me I had to pay so many dollars, and, the
payment being made, I was free to depart.

COW-CATCIIKU. — LOCOMOTIVES.

Mv ^b'.ihation was Saratoga, to wliicli I travelled
b} i'SLih^r/f passing through the picturesque district
of ; *i( «1 'een Mountains. The American railway car,
as is ^ erally known, is about forty feet long, eight
aiif' - JuJf wide, and six and a half high, having seats,
with reversible backs, for sixty passengers. The
weight of a car of these dimensions is eleven tons, and
the cost about 4001. It is supported at each end on
four wheeled trucks, ingeniously mounted on swivel
axles, enabling it to whisk round curves at the sight
of which an English railway engineer would stand
aghast. The locomotive is very unlike ours, being
an uncouth-looking machine, with a prodigious bottle-
nose chimney, and an iron-barred vizor-like affair in
front, called a cow-catcher, though, as I can attest from
observation, it is not at all particular as to the kind
of animal it catches, or kills ; for, as may be imagined,
when an unfortunate beast is struck by the pointed
guard, the chances are it is killed. As the railways,
with few exceptions, are unprovided with fences, the
herds and flocks turned into the forests are at liberty
to roam on the track ; sheep especially are fond of
resorting to the line at night, which they find drier
than the damp clearings. These animals, however,
are not deemed formidable obstacles. An engine
cleverly dashed through a flock of one hundred and

A VACATION TOUIl.

eighty, the greater portion of which were summarily
converted into mutton. Diflfering in outward form, the
American engine differs also in its interior economy
from our locomotive, feeding on wood, for which it has
an insatiable appetite, instead of coal, which may ac-
count for the unearthly sound it emits, comparable
only to the simultaneous braying of a dozen donkeys
labouring under oppressive asthma. The English first-
class railway traveller, accustomed to tlie courtesy of
guards and the servility of porters, will seek in vain for
their representatives in America. A conductor, un-
marked by any badge of distinction beyond n small
plate, which he only displays when the train is m motion
(for up to that period he is an independent gentle-
man), shouts to the engine-driver, " All o' board ; "
a bell, attached to the engine, is rung violentlv,
not to summon indolent or tardy passengers "on
board," for they are supposed to be in the cars—- but
to warn people in the streets of the approach of the
locomotive, and the train is off. Thus, the traveller
has to look out for himself, and he is early made
aware of the important fact, that if he trusts to others
he will in all probability pay the penalty by being left
behind. Through streets, across thronged roads,
speeds the train, the only warning being a conspi-
cuous notice—" Look out for the locomotive when the

WATEIIING TFIE PASSENGERS.

bell rings." The conductor's labours commence with
the journey. Here again the value of time in Ame-
rica is made appare^it ; for as the functionary pro-
ceeds through the cars, calling out " Tickets," it will
be noticed very few passengers are provided with
checks. The conductor is, therefore, empowered to
sell tickets, and this, with receiving them at the end
of the journey, constitutes his principal occupation.
When the train reaches its destination, the conductor
removes his official badge, and retires into private
life.

The process of watering the passengers, as it is
called, is another feature peculiar to American rail-
way travelling. A man or boy, often a negro, carry-
ing a tin can, and tumblers in a frame, passes fre-
quently through the cars dispensing iced water to
the numerous applicants for that indispensable refresh-
ment during an American summer, which is provided
at the expense of the railway company.

The rate of travelling is about twenty-four miles
an hour. The stoppages are frequent, to take in
wood, which burns more rapidly than coke. At these
wooding stations, anfortunate horses may be seen
toiling up an endless incline, which retrogrades beneath
their feet, and sets machinery in motion to saw logs
for the locomotives.

F '2

A VACATION TOUR.

if
if'

There being no distinction of cars, excepting those
for emigrants and coloured persons, tlie adage that
travelling makes us acquainted with strange com-
panions has more than usual force in the States,
where an honourable judge, a senator, or the Presi-
dent himself, may be seen seated next to a rouc^h and
unwashed mechanic. On the present occasion, my
neighbours were of a very heterogeneous nature, con-
sisting of every variety of American society. Ele-
gantly dressed ladies were, as usual, not wantintr ; and,
under the circumstances, I considered myself particu-
larly fortunate in having next to me an exceedingly
pretty girl, who entered the car at a station about
twenty miles from Boston. The day was oppressively
warm, and so by way of commencing a conversation
I offered the young lady the use of a bottle of eau de
Cologne. If, thought I, she accepts my offer, she will
not be disinclined to engage in conversation. I was
not wrong. The perfume was freely used. Thanks
were returned in a sweet voice, happily untainted by
a nasal twang, and, however antagonistic to romance,
truth compels me to state we were soon entangled in
the intricacies of an argument on Slavery. She was
a strenuous advocate of bondage, and regarded all
Abolitionists with particular horror and aversion.
As her words swelled in violence, the warm blood

FliECOCIOUS TllAVELLING COMrANION.

of the south — for she was a southern — crimsoned
her cheeks. The lady's range of information was
astounding, and she talked with a masculine deter-
mination and assurance strangely at variance with her
yoi^'' ful appearance. As she was going to Ballston
Spi ' jjs, near Saratoga, we spent the greater part of
the day together ; and when we drew near her desti-
nation, I expressed my regret that she was not going
to Saratoga. " Well, if you remain at Saratoga we
may meet again." " But," added the lady, '• I shall
be only a short time at the Springs, for school re-opens
in three weeks ! " So my heroine was only a school-
girl ! — Young I knew her to be, but I did not imagine
I had been talking to a precocious " bread and butter
Miss," as Byron styles young ladies in a transition
state between the nursery and drawing-room. As-
suredly, had that poet's experience of scliool-girls been
derived from those " raised " in America, he would
have come to the conclusion that the ].>ahulum of
seminaries in the model republic is of more mascu-
line stuff than bread and butter.

la the course of the journey we passed within viuw
of Albany, on the right bank of the Hudson, near t • e
heud of the tidal navigation. This city wa*^ : . luided
in 1612 by the Dutch, and, next to Jame^j Town in
\ irginia (now in ruins), is the most ancieni Earo-

1- 3

A VACATION TOUK

I's

I'll
I'll*

pean settlement within the thirteen original states.
On the capture of New York by the English in 1664,
Albany received its present name in honour of James,
Duke of York and Albany.

Following the left bank of the river we arrived at
Troy, celebrated as the great dep6t of the lumber
trade, from whence enormous quantities of timber
are sent down the Hudson. The Americans are
proud of their Troy. The classical visitor will,
however, seeing it is a busy manufacturing town,
exclaim, Alas, for Ilium et ingem gloria Tencrorum !
ar:- he will be the more inclined to sigh over past
and present associations, when he hears that two
small hills in the vicinity of the town bear the high-
sounding titles of Ida and Olympus. The traveller
has an excellent opportunity of seeing the principal
streets, as the railway passes directly through them
before crossing the Hudson, and thus passengers are
conveniently dropped at the doors of the hotels.

It was dark when we arrived at Saratoga. Fol-
lowing a train of passengers who were going to the
United States Hotel, I found myself among a crowd
of eager applicants for rooms. Having obtained an
apartment, I was seized by four negroes, who, with
prodigiously large whisks, commenced a vigorous
attack on the dust covering my clothes and hair.

CONGRESS SPRING.

After this operation I indulged in a luxurious bath,
iind, having changed my dress, mingled with the
numerous and gay company promenading the corri-
dors. The vastness of the hotel was amazing. In
comparison with its halls, those at the Revere House
sink into insignificance. After supper, strains of
music drew me upstairs, where, in a large and
handsome ball-room, about two hundred ladies and
gentlemen were dancing and promenading, the former
en grande toilette, while the latter, as at Nahant, wore
their morning costume.

The following morning I rose early, and went to
the ' rated Congress Spring, which rises in a
smai .rk at the end cf the main street. The bub-
bling fountain, enclosed by a temple, was surrounded
by a crowd of both sexes, drinking the curative
clement out of glasses handed to them by boys. The
ladies were dressed in loose morning robes, and
wore on their heads a kind of fringed hood of
crochet work. An advertisement suspended in the
temple, set forth that Congress Spring was dis-
covered in 1792 by a member of Congress. The
water is a purely natural acidulous or carbonated
saline aperient, and is pronounced peculiarly bene-
ficial in stomach complaints, and diseases of the
blood.

F 4

A VACATION TOUK.

i?m 'i

So fair a promise of restoring healtli, combined
with fashionable amusements, draws a large concourse
of invalids and pleasure-seekers to Saratoga. Such,
indeed, are its real or imaginary attractions, that as
many as 2000 visitors have arrived in a week.

Exercise being enjoined in the interval between
drinking the requisite large number of glasses, an
ingenious contrivance has been devised combining
exercise and locomotion. Not far from the spring is
an extensive circular railway, on which run gaily-
painted miniature cars holding two persons, who turn
the wheels for themselves. A number of these cars
were careering round at a great rate on the morning
of my visit, the amusement consisting in the different
parties running races with each other, the ladies
helping their partners most vigorously in propelling
the machines.

Besides this, bowls, and nine, or ten-pins as they are
called in America, were in vogue, the ladies joining
heartily in the game. At a short distance from the
spring is an establishment where the water is bottled,
and despatched to all parts of the Union, for the
Americans implicitly believe it is the best mineral
water of its kind, and the consumption is conse-
quently very large.* It was difficult to recognise
* As it is possible that some invalid reader may feel inclined

ladies' dresses.

the ladies at the spring as the same I had met at
the breakfast table, so great was the change in
their dress. Remembering that the majority pur-
posed passing through two more transformations, for
dinner and the nightly ball, and that to appear in a
different dress on every occasion is the height of
fashion, I no longer doubted the story of some ladies
travelling with fifty dresses. It is also said, that when
ladies have exhibited their wardrobe, they depart,
the great object of their visit being accomplished.

Independently of the attractions of Saratoga as the
most fashionable watering-place in the United States,
its historical associations are interesting. Not far from
it, and on an elevation about a mile from the Hudson,
is the celebrated battle-field, claimed by Americans
as the locality where the advancing wave which
threatened to overwhelm their liberty was arrested.
It cannot be denied that the English army under
Burgoyne suffered a reverse at this spot, which had
great influence in depriving us of a splendid heritage.
After a struggle during six days, the British army

to visit Saratoga, I subjuin the analysis of the Congress Spring
water made by Sir H. Davy and Professor Faraday : —Chloride
of sodium 385-44 grains ; hydriodate of soda 4-02 ; carbonate of
lime 116-00; carbonate of magnesia 56*80; oxide of iron -64;
carbonate of soda -56 ; hydro-bromate of potash, a trace ; solid
contents in a gallon 563-46 grains.

A VACATION TOUR.

liere yielded themselves prisoners to General Gates,
and America was fropi that moment a nation. The
kindness of the Americans to their prisoners on this
occasion forms a bright feature of that memorable
battle: an affecting incident preserves this noble trait.
Major Ackland, of the English army, who had been
severely wounded, was on the point of being shot by
a boy, when his life was saved by an American
general from whom he received the most tender care.
Subsequently, when in England, hearing the Ame-
ricans on some public occasion traduced as cowards,
he boldly contradicted the libeller, whom he chal-
lenged, and a duel ensuing, the noble soldier fell a
victim to his chivalric zeal.

- The great event of the day at " the Springs " is
dinner, which takes place at half-past three. This,
at the United States Hotel, is a tremendous under-
taking. Conceive sitting down in an enormous
saloon, or, rather, four saloons at right angles to each
other, with some 600 guests, waited upon by 150
negroes, commanded by a black maitre d'hotel. The
operation of finding places for such a multitude — in
itself no trifling task — being over, the waiters,
dressed in spotless white jackets, extend their hands
over the covers, and at a signal from their chief,
stationed in the centre of the saloons, remove them

DINNER AT THE UNITED STATES HOTEL. 75

simultaneously. Then arises a clatter of knives,
plates, and forks perfectly bewildering, in the sharp
rattling fire of which conversation is drowned and
confusion seems established. But a glance at the
commander-in-chief shows that, although his black
troops are rushing hither and thither in hot haste
at the bidding of impetuous Southerners or less iras-
cible Northerners, he has not lost his authority. At
a clap of his hands they fall into their places, and at
another all the dishes are removed. Bearing these
dexterously on their extended arm, they march in
step to the side-doors, through which they disappear.
Scarcely, however, are they out of sight when, like
Harlequin in the pantomime, in they come again,
each with three fresh dishes, with which they march
to their appointed places. Then, with their eye on
the commander, they hold a dish over the table, and
pop it down at the first signal. With clap two the
second dish descends ; and at the third signal the
tables are covered. So through the dinner ; for even
in the changing of knives, forks, and spoons the same
regularity is observed. The whole thing is exces-
sively entertaining ; and, what between looking at
the various manoeuvres, and at the ladies' dresses, 1
fared badly in the way of eating. The fault, how-
ever, lay entirely with myself, for the abundance of

^Twa w nc B fljMraarg Miff

A VACATION TOITR.

mil

dishes was almost overpowering. This admirable
organisation is, of course, a great economy of time ;
for, although no counting-houses are near, the guests,
without any display of quick eating, were evidently
desirous not to remain longer at table than necessary ;
and in less than an hour the rooms were deserted.

At a German hrunneti the move would now have
been in the direction of the hills, over which numerous
donkeys or ponies would be found ready to bear the
visitors. But they order matters differently at
Saratoga, where to see each other and to be seen is
evidently the main object. Accordingly, the ladies,
in their gay attire, with their beautiful hair uncovered
by bonnet or cap, promenade in the galleries and
through the main street from hotel to hotel ; some of
the gentlemen, meantime, being seated in very re-
markable attitudes in the verandahs, from whence
they enjo}' commanding views of the ladies ; while
others seek the billiard-rooms or shooting-galleries.
As evening closes the promenaders return, and at
seven a loud gong summons to tea. After this repast
the drawing-rooms fill, and some of the ladies play
and sing. Later there is generally « a hop," as the
negro waiters call it.

Such is a sketch of the life I saw at Saratoga, —
highly amusing to contemplate for a short time, but

Ijglr,

y. -. ..Hi

I 1

MONROE.

TLANK ROAD.

presenting no temptation to the stranger to mix in for
more than a couple of days. It would, liowever,
have been easy had I desired to make many ac-
quaintances, for several gentlemen offered to introduce
me to their friends.

Leaving the gay and glittering scene, in the af-
ternoon I took the railway ars to Monroe, and
proceeded by stage over a plank road to Lake
George, a distance of eighteen miles. I was the
only passenger, and for some minutes it seemed
doT btful whether the driver would proceed with so
nnremunerative a load. However, I insisted on his
starting, having been assured at Saratoga that a stage
invariably communicated with the trains at Monroe ;
anu, after a little growling, he mounted his box and
we set off. The road was wretched. The planks had
not been renewed for many years, and we floundered
about in a manner more ludicrous than pleasant.
When we had accomplished about half the distance,
and the night had set in, we came to a wooden
bridge, at the approach to which the driver paused.
"Wl-it is the matter?" I demanded. *' Why, I
guess there's a darn'd holvj in this V^-e bridge,"
was his reply. At this intelligence I suggested,
as it was very dark, he should get out and lead
his horses. This, however, did not meet his appro-

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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A VACATION TOUR.

bation; and before I could alight he whipped the
animals furiously, and over we went, clearing hole
and bridge at a bound. As this was my first intro-
duction to American disregard of life and limb, it
made a considerable impression on me. Subsequent
adventures tended greatly, however, to harden me.
At ten I arrived at the hotel, situated at the southern
extremity of Lake George, and soon after forgot my
fatigues in a comfortable bed.

I had made a detour for the express purpose of
seeing this lake ; and the scenery which burst upon
me the following morning was so lovely I resolved on
devoting a day to its varied beauties.

I was confirmed in my determination by hearing at
breakfast there was to be a grand squirrel-hunt in the
neighbouring woods, and all the farming population
were to take part in it. These hunts, or, as they
are called, « Squirrel Bees," take place at the close of
harvest, and are generally attended with a terrible
destruction of squirrels and other animals ; for, al-
though squirrels are the principal objects of pursuit,
no quadruped or bird comes amiss to the hunter. A
recent battue in the woods to the east of Lake Cham-
plain had yielded 1 wild cat, 7 red foxes, 29 racoons,
76 woodchucks, 101 rabbits, 21 owls, 42 hawks, 103
partridges, 14 quails, 39 crows, 4497 grey, red, black,

SQUIRREL-nUNT. — RATTLESNAKES. 79

and striped squirrels, 25 wild ducks, besides unnum-
bered pigeons, jays, woodpeckers, &c.

It is customary to count by tails, — a bear reckon-
ing as 50 tails, a fox as 20, and so on ; thus when so
many tails are mentioned it does not follow the same
number of squirrels is comprehended. These pretty
little animals, which, according to the farmers, are
sadly mischievous, abound in the woods around Lake
George, in proof of which I was assured that, a
few years ago, as many as 32,000 were killed when
the harvest was over. On the present occasion
only 4300 fell, of which about 200 were black. I
shot one of these, and eight red squirrels, and might
have easily added to the number, but from a circum-
stance which paralysed my t;nergies, and kept me in
a state of constant apprehension. This was the un-
welcome information that the woods swarm with
rattlesnakes, rendering it highly dangerous to tra-
verse them without having the feet and legs protected
by stout boots. Now, as I wore shoes which left my
ankles entirely unprotected, I confess I felt very
uncomfortable, and was particularly carefi 1 not to
stray from the beaten track in my pursuit of
game. These terrible reptiles are not, however,
shunned by the hunters. Some men are particularly
dexterous in capturing them for the sake of their oil

A VACATION TOUR.

and gall, which are reputed to be valuable specifics
for certain diseases ; and my friend, Mr. Lanman of
Washington, who is well acquainted with Lake
George, says that the principal amusement of the
girls residing in a small hamlef on the shores of the
lake is rattlesnake-hunting. Their favourite play-
ground is the sunny side of Tongue Mountain, near
Rattlesnake Island, where they pull the reptiles from
between the rocks by their tails, and, snapping them
to death, carry them off in baskets as trophies of their
skill. In this manner he was told they had killed, in
one day, the incredible number of 1100.

While the mountains and forests are tenanted by
a variety of game and reptiles, the angler will be glad
to hear that the waters of this beautiful lake are
famous for the number and variety of trout, and
particularly for black basse, which, like trout, seem to
be partial to romantic places. This fine fish is a
genuine natwe American, and justly takes high rank
among the game fish of the country. The true
angler will respect it the more for its love for gaudy
flies, which it seizes with the avidity of a salmon-
trout. I was informed that in the vicinity of the nume-
rous islands, dozens of basse of from two to six pounds
weight may be taken in the courseof a few hours; so
the angler may reckon on excellent fishing should he

LAKE GEORGE.

feel disposed to remain some time on the shores of
this lake, and should he tire of sport, he will have
abundant opportunities of studying herpetology if he
be inclined.

Let the Americans praise Lake George as much
as they please, its great beauties cannot be exag-
gerated. Its Indian name is Horicon, a musical and
appropriate word, signifying " pure water," and it is
to be regretted this was exchanged for the more
common-place name which it now bears, It is
thirty-four miles long (Murray is not yet in America,
so a tourist may occasionally render good service by
a little description), from two to four wide, and
reflects upwards of 300 islands on its clear bosom.
It is completely surrounded by elevations, the most
prominent of which are Black and Tongue Moun-
tains, famous for their dens of rattlesnakes. French
Mountain, which rises picturesquely at the south
extremity, is memorable as having been the camping
ground of the French during the Revolutionary
War. I had half determined to ascend this mountain
in the evening, but gave up the idea on being told
that the undertaking requires several hours. Ame-
ricans, however, if we may judge by the following
lines transcribed from the Hotel Album, would not

have been so easily deterred ;

mmm

A VACATION TOUR.

" Though before you mountains rise,

Go-ahead ;
Scale them certainly you can :
Let them proudly dare the skies,
What are mountains to a man ?

Go-ahead."

Instead of ascending the mountain, I visited the
remains of Fort George, and Fort William Henry,
celebrated as the scene of the terrible massacre of
the English army by the Indians in 1757. The
shores of Lake George abound with interesting
localities in connection with the struggle for dominion
in the New World between the English and French ;
and the admirer of Cooper will not forget that the
scene of " The Last of the Mohicans " is laid here
and in the im»nediate neighbourhood.

The following morning I embarked in a small
steamer for the head of the lake. The day was
lovely, and the trip most beautiful. An old fellow
belonging to the boat pointed to all the objects of
intercr.. ; and when we came abreast of Tongue
Mountain, confirmed its unenviable reputation for
rattlesnakes, by producing a large box containing
about a dozen of these reptiles which he had caught
on the slopes. It is his yearly habit to catch, at the
beginning of the season, a number of these snakes,

TICONDEROGA FORT.

which he keeps without food, and at the end of the
year kills them, and sells t'.ieir oil. Those which he
had were extremely large, and in a furious state of
excitement.

At the head of the lake rude stages were waiting
to convey us to Ticonderoga, five miles distant. This
drive introduced me to a corduroy road, over the
irregularities of which our vehicle rose and fell with a
violence of motion threatening every moment to hurl
me from my outside seat. On our way we passed
several log huts. Altogether the drive was of the
wildest nature. At Ticonderoga, or, as it is called,
" old Ty," we had to wait some hours for the Lake
Champlain steamer, during which time I explored
the extensive ruins of the fortress. This was built
by the French in 1756, and called Carillon. The
Indian name was Cheonderoga, signifying sounding
water, on account of the rushing waters at the outlet
of Lake George at the Falls. The place is identi-
fied with the most deadly strife between the English
and French, and subsequently between the former
and the Americans. The ruins are situated on a
peninsula, comprising about 500 acres, and are at an
elevation of about 100 feet above Lake Champlain.
It was a very strong fortress, and the numerous
relics of war, in the form of bullets and arrow-heads

Q 2

A VACATION TOUR.

which arc still found, attest how fiercely buttles must
have raged about its walls.

While seated on an eminence, contemplating the
varied features of land and water, and musing on the
past eventful history of the rain, I noticed that
the charming scenery was gradually becoming dim.
Conceiving my eyes might be in fault, I rubbed
them, but on gazing forth again, the same dimness
prevailed. Portion after portion of cape, headland,
mountain, and water were blotted out, and the sun
loomed lurid through the opaque atmosphere. The
cause now flashed upon me. The forests were on
fire, and I was destined to see a spectacle of unusual
magnificence. The heat had been exceedingly great
for several weeks before I landed in America, and
this, with a drought of extraordinary duration, had
parched the ground. Thus the forests and under-
wood were in a particularly favourable condition for
burning, and the fires made by settlers and hunters
spread with fearful rapidity. While waiting for the
steamer, which was detained two hours by the smoke,
portions of charred leaves fell thickly upon us, giving
evidence of the approach of the conflagration. As
we steamed up this noble lake, matters became
worse, and long before reaching Rouse's Point the
shores were veiled by supernatural darkness. Having

TREMENDOUS FIRES.

no compass on board, the captain was obliged to
navigate his vessel by sounding; and when we
reached our port about eight o'clock, it was so dark,
that torches of pine-wood were in requisition to enable
us to land. Here we heard the surrounding country
was on fire, and that the communication by railway
to Ogdensburg on the St. Lawrence was suspended.
The hotel, a huge barrack-like place, was full of
travellers, who told fearful stories of the march of flame
through the land, and the papers teemed with ac-
counts of what was styled " the terrible calamity."*
These were confirmed by the awful spectacle which
the heavens presented at night, appearing like a
mighty furnace. The oppressive heat was sickening,
and the smoke so acrid as to cause excessive smart-
ing pain to my eyes. I went to bed, but sleep was
out of the question ; and when morning dawned, it
WHS only to reveal a dreary spectacle of dense smoke,
through which objects a few yards distant could not
be distinguished. I rose undetermined what to do ;
anxious to pursue my journey to my friend's house in
Canada, with whom I planned visiting Quebec ; but
apprehensive that by going to Ogdensburg and

* The estimated loss by the fires in August was 4,277,000
dollars. In Troy alone, "lumber" valued at 1,000,000 dollars
was burnt.

G 3

A VACATION TOUR.

plunging farther into the forests to the north-west,
which were also on fire, I might be worse off than at
present. My indecision was terminated by the in-
telligence that the fire having passe.: nearly, if not
quite, across the railway to Ogdensburg, a train
would start for that place in a couple of hours, and
believing that when on the St. Lawrence all danger
of being stopped would be at an end, I determined to
go on. That railway drive will long live in my
memory. During the entire distance (120 miles),
with the exception of clearings, where the black
ruins of the settler's homestead told how fiercely the
fire had blazed, we passed between burnt brushwood
and charred trees, upon the noble stems of many of
which the fire was still flickering. At every station
where we stopped, crowds of terrified men and women
made anxious inquiries respecting the progress of the
conflagration. The march of the fire seemed endless,
for when we came to localities where it was almost
extinct, a few yards farther long tongues of flame
played among the trees and almost licked the sides of
the cars.

The smoke, meanwhile, was most distressing,
blinding in its effects, and shrouding every object in
its dismal folds. At three in the afternoon we arrived
at Ogdensburg; but, instead of finding the atmo-

0GDEN8BURG.

sphere clearer, it was, if possible, more opaque. The
steamboats had ceased running; two were aground
on sand-bars off the town ; and, to complete my mis-
fortunes, a telegraphic message had arrived, announc-
ing that no boats would be despatched from Montreal
until the atmosphere was clearer. Tliis was most
disappointing; and my spirits were still more de-
pressed when I entered a small tavern, — the best in
the place, — which promised to be my home for many
days. There, indeed, I mourned over my solitude ;
for a companion, under such circumstances, would
have been most cheering. My tour, by these un-
looked-for eventfi, seemed prematurely terminated.
The magnificent St. Lawrence rolled within a few
yards of me, and I could not see a trace of its blue
waters. The whole country was wrapped in flames
and smoke, — gloom and despair were on every face.
I sat down to deliberate, prudence whispering return ;
while an excessive disinclination to retrace my steps
urged me to persevere. I was in a state of miserable
indecision, when a man entered my narrow apartment,
and, announcing himself as the landlord, stated that,
having heard I was very desirous of ascending the
St. Lawrence, he had come to tell me my best chance
of getting on was to cross to Prescott, on the opposite

G 4

A VACATION TOUR.

side of the river, where I might catch the British
mail-boat, which would continue running, if possible.
"You see," he added, "it would be my interest to
keep you on tliis side, for it is my opinion you would
stop an almiglity long time ; but I would scorn to
take advantage of a Britisher, and so you jist come
with me, and I'll see you across the river and into
good quarters on t'other side." Here was a gleam of
sunsliine. Thanking the landlord, whose disinter-
ested kindness raised him very high in my opinion
among the Boniface fraternity, I placed myself under
his guidance, and was soon crossing the river, which
we effected in safety, being directed by bells tolled
on the Canadian shore. Passing through a couple of
streets, the opposite sides of which were invisible, we
arrived at a small inn. The two landlords were
friends of long standing. Strict injunctions were
given that I should be well cared for. The mail
boat, due in the morning, had not yet arrived ; and,
being now late, it was not expected that day. So I
made up my mind to remain where I was for the
night.

The bar was crowded by Canadian voyageurs,
whose occupation was temporarily suspended in con-
sequence of the smoke. From them I heai'd the
forests to the north of the river were on fire for many

8TORY OF A RAFV.

miles, and the conflagration fast spreading towards
Prescott. Many cf the inhabitants in the outskirts
had taken alarm and packed up portions of their fur-
niture, with the view of carrying it down to the river
in case the fire entered the town.

fortune, or misfortune, introduced me to a gentle-
man whom I found in the sitting-room, detained, like
myself, by the smoke. He was waiting for his raft,
which was due at Prescott four days before, and on
which he purposed proceeding to Montreal. The de-
tention of his property caused him great uneasiness,
as may be conceived when I state it was worth 5000Z.
The raft consisted of nine " drams " of timber, each
dram containing 14,000 cubic feet, valued at nine-
pence a foot. The raftS are towed down the St.
Lawrence as far as Prescott, and then navigated
through the rapids by the voyageursy about twenty
being requisite to manage each raft. Great skill is
necessary to accomplish this safely ; but, such is the
dexterity of the voyageurs, accidents are of rare oc-
currence. My informant had often descended the
rapids on his rafts. He represented the adventure as
full of pleasant excitement, in proof of which he
stated, when he married he took bis bride down by way
of a wedding-trip. Having myself since descended
these raging waters, I must say the lady, who, I was

assured,

A VACATION TOUR.

, joyed the run, is qualified to be the wife
of the wildest backwoodsman in Canada.

In consequence of heavy rain, which fell some
miles from Prescott during the night, the following
morning dawned on a brighter state of things. The
smoke was not so dense, and glimpses of the St.
Lawrence were visible. But there were no tidings of
the mail-boat. All we could learn from the telegraph
carried along the banks of the river was, that she had
left Montreal the previous morning. There was
nothing for it but to wait patiently, which I did
imtil mid-day, when the joyful intelligence was an-
nounced that the boat was off Prescott. I imme-
diately we.it down to the pier, and in a few minutes
descried the steamer looming through the smoke-fog,
while above, —

" All in a hot and copper sky,
TliG bloody sun at r^on
Right up above the mast did stand,
No bigger than the moon."

As soon as the ship had taken in her supply of wood
we started on our upward voyage. There were only
a few cabin-passengers, but the lower decks were
crowded by emigrants on their way to the far west.
The majority M'ere Norwegians, — fine stalwart men

KINGSTON.

FORT HENRY.

and healthy-looking women, with a plentiful allow-
ance of children. Of course Paddy was not missing,
but this year he seems to be in a minority among the
emigrant ranks.

We steamed at half-speed through the Lake of the
Thousand Islands. It was tantalising to be hi the
midst of this beautiful scenery and only obtain tran-
sient glimpses of it. I should have felt the disap-
pointment more keenly had it not been my intention
to descend the St. Lawrence to Quebec. At ten at
night we arrived at Kingston, where I was obliged to
remain until three the following day. On rising in
the morning it was most cheering to find the atmo-
sphere considerably clearer, though the smoke-haze
still hung heavily over lake and land. How vast an
extent of country had been shrouded, may be con-
ceived by the circumstance that I was now 400 miles
from the locality where I first fell in with the fires.

I occupied the morning rambling about Kingston,
and visiting Fort Henry, for which an order from
the Town Major is necessary. The town has rather
a dreary appearance in consequence of the great
width of the streets, many of which are overrun with
grass. The public buildings are fine, but entirely
disproportioned to the requirements of the place,
which presents no sign of that gi'eat activity and

A VACATION TOUR.

progress charnctcristic of other Canadian communities.
The removal of the scat of government from King-
ston lias had a most injurious effect on the town, and
yet it is admirably situated for commerce, being on
the verge of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence.
The abundance of game in the vicinity renders
Kingston a desirable residence for those fond of
shooting and fishing, but, apart from this, it possesses
scarcely any attractions; and the absence of the
^ military, who, with the exception of a small garrison,
have lately been removed, must render it even duller
than it was at the time of my visit.

The boat in which I resumed my voyage to Co-
burg combined all the comforts of the river steamers
with the strength of an ocean ship. For Ontario in
its angry moods diflfers in no respect from the sea
when vexed by storms. In consequence, however,
of its great depth, it is not so easily aifected by tem-
pests as Lake Erie which is much sliallower. Some
interesting observations have been made on Lake
Ontario, by which it appears that from May to
September there is a gradual diminution of tempe-
rature from the shore towards the middle of the lake,
and while the navigation is suspended on Lake Erie
by ice, the waters of Lake Ontario are rarely lowered
to the point of congelation.

COIIURG. — BUTTER-MERCHANT.

After passing across the entrance to the Bay of
Quinte, whose shores are clotted with flourishino-
settlements, we lost sight of land. Shortly after, the
night closed, and we were summoned to supper.
Happily the lake was tranquil, and consequently the
supper-tables were attended by all the passengers;
for as meals on board the British mail-boats are
included in the fare, they are generally patronised
by the company. We arrived at Coburg about
midnight, and after a hazardous scramble over logs
and merchandise encumbering the pier, I found my-
self in a tavern with a Yankee, in the joint occu-
pancy of a small bedroom just rendered endurable by
there being two beds. The accommodation, which was
the best at the disposal of the landlord, did not im-
press me very favourably with the capabilities of
Coburg, but I was not aware at the time that the town
possesses a large and excellent hotel. As the beds
presented no inducement to be at the trouble of
undressing, my companion and myself lay down in
our clothes, and, before attempting to sleep, com-
municated to each other so much of our histories as
was connected with our meeting. He was an enter-
prising butter-merchant, bound on a journey of
exploration througli the backwoods, for the purpose
of purchasing butter from the settlers to sell in the

A VACATION TOUR.

States. He had heard a large harvest was to be
gathered in the country between Coburg and Peter-
boroughj and was ready to buy every pound of butter
that was to be had, provided, of course, the price were
such as to enable him to realise a profit.

Having satisfied our curiosity respecting each
other's aifairs, we made desperate attempts to sleep,
but were baffled by two trumpet-throated cocks
which crowed at each other from early dawn with
terrible energy and determination. So after tossing
to and fro for some hours, I rose, and made up in
some measure for want of rest by bathing in the
lake. "With intense delight I hailed the rising sun
undimmed by smoke or haze, and drank in the dewy
freshness of the morn. After breakfasting on venison
steaks, I started by a railway intended to connect
Coburg with Peterborough, but which at the time
of my visit did not extend beyond Rice Lake, a dis-
tance of twelve miles. I had every reason to con-
gratulate myself on this state of things, as the trip
across the lake and up the Otonabee river was most
enjoyable.

Immediately after leaving Coburg we plunged into
the forest, through which the railway is carried to
the lake. Here we found a tiny steamer, with high-
pressure engines, whicli snorted and splashed across

LEAVE FOR PETERBOROUGH.

the water to the discomfort of ducks and other birds
feeding on the wild rice. This plant, which gives
its name to the lake, grows in such profusion as to
make the water appear in many places like green
pastures. Steering through these we drew near the
wooded shore and entered the mouth of the Otonabee,
a lazy river about a hundred yards wide, lined by
the dense and dark primeval forest. The sail up this
stream is extremely wild and romantic. As the
steamer puffed round each bend, flights of scared
water-fowl made the river

" Vocal in its wooded walls,"

and passed away into the wilderness yet undisturbed
by man. For, with rare exceptions, the forest is in
a state of nature ; and, even where the settler has
broken in, his labours have made but little impres-
sion.

" Captain," said the butter-merchant, " be sure you
put me out at Campbell Town." Shortly after this
injunction the little steamer paused abreast of a small
clearing, provided with a rude landing-place con-
structed of unhewn logs. " Now then, who's for
Campbell Town?" exclaimed the captain, as he
threw an attenuated leathern bag lettered " Iler
Majesty's Mail " to a lad in waiting with a cart. At

A VACATION TOUR.

these words the butter-merchant, valise in hand,
came forward and begged to know where Campbell
Town was, as no houses were visible. The question
was not irrelevant. Town in the shape of houses
there was none ; a few scattered log-huts and shan-
ties formed the embryo of what, doubtless, will be
ere long a flourishing community. Beyond these
there was nothing in sight but the interminable
forest. The Yankee's countenance fell as his vision
of a thriving agricultural settlement was dispelled by
the reality ; and as he stepped on shore to seek his
fortune we heard him muttering, " Wall, I'm darn'd
if I ever see sich a town,"

Near Peterborough the settlements increased in
number and extent, and were of all ages, from the
first stage where the prostrate trees or unsightly
stumps told how fiercely war had been waged against
the forest, to the period of glorious victory proclaimed
by the snug house and homestead standing amidst
green pastures or corn-fields, whose golden waves
awaited the sickle, or stood gathered into banded
sheaves,

" Like armies of prosperity."

As the steamer drew near Peterborough, and the
captain pointed to the residence of my friend^ I felt

AURIVE AT PETERHOROUGU.

strange emotions ; for it had been a day-dream of
many years' duration to visit him and liis sister in
their Canadian home. Now, it was on the eve of
realisation ; and those who have enjoyed the warm
welcome of affectionate friendship in a far distant
land, will conceive my feelings of joy when I passed
under their roof. One purpose of my tour was
accomplished ; and, casting off the cares and anxie-
ties of travel, I gave myself up for a season to quiet
repose.

A VACATION TOUn.

CHAP. IV.

PETERBOROUGH GROWTH OF CANADIAN TOWNS. — EX-
CURSION TO THE BACKWOODS. — BAD ROADS SAW-
MILLS. — LUMBER TRADE. — CAPABILITIES OF AMERICAN
FORESTS. — DOURO. — MAJOR STRICKLAND. — LAKEFIELD.
— AGRICULTURAL PUPILS. — CLEARING LAND. — VALUE
OF LAND. — LOGGING. — LIFE IN THE BUSH. — DEER
HUNT. — THE FOREST. — DUCK SHOOTING. — FISHING.

— CLEAR LAKE. — EXCURSION TO INDIAN LODGE MASKI-

NONGE. — INDIANS. — PICTURESQUE ENCAMPMENT. —
BARK CANOES. — PETITION OF OJIBEWAYS. — RETURN
TO PETERBOROUGH.

Independently of my limited time, plans had been
made for an excursion into the back-woods, so my
season of rest was necessarily brief. Before starting
to see bush-life, let me say a few words respecting
Peterborough, one of the most rising towns in
Canada. A few years ago its site was a wilderness,
— now the population numbers 2500, and is rapidly
increasing. New and large stores and shops are
springing up, and several public buildings and
villas are scattered through the township. Between
these stumps are still visible. I had the pleasure of
dining with the owner of one of the largest farms near
Peterborough, on which occasion I met a numerous

PETERBOROUGH.

party. The handsome house, grounds, and elegant
entertainment recalled England. Flocks of sheep
were feeding on the rich pastures. The owner of
this charming residence informed me that he had
tried the experiment of introducing Merino-sheep,
which, however, did not thrive, though every care
was taken of them. The common Leicester and
Southdowns are very numerous. In 1851, there
were 1,597,849 of these animals in Canada, beino-
nearly one to every inhabitant. In the same year,
3,338,508 yards of fulled cloth and flannel were
manufactured in the farmhouses of the two provinces.
It is much to be regretted, that in Canada, as well as
in the United States, so little consideration has been
shown for the preservation of open places for recrea-
tion within the towns. It seems as if the desire were
to shut out the free wilderness by every means. In
the infancy of a settlement, when a few log -huts con-
tained the population, this was natural ; but when
these swelled into large and flourishing communities,
the importance of securing parks unfortunately re-
mained unheeded. War to extermination against the
forest is the settler's rule ; and thus the instances are
very rare of groves of the primeval woods amid the
rising town.

A curious feature in the growth of Canadian towns

ii 2

100

A VACATION TOUR.

merits notice. This is the progress which, with
scarcely an exception, the houses make westward;
thus following the course of the great human wave,
which, breaking on the eastern shores of North
America, advances across the western wilderness at
the rate of seventeen miles yearly.

Accompanied by two friends I left Peterborough
early on a glorious morning for the backwoods. We
travelled in a buggy, the vehicle generally used in
Canada, which, although extremely light, successfully
resists the terrible concussions arising from the
wretched roads. Our destination was the township of
Douro, about twelve miles from Peterborough, where
I was promised a hearty welcome from Major Strick-
land, brother of the authoress of tiie " Queens of
England," who has long been settled in the above
township. Our route lay up the left bank of the
Otonabee, the stream not being navigable higher than
Peterborough. Its dashing waters are, however,
used for floating down logs for the lumber trade, and
driving saw-mills. We visited the largest of these
establishments, about three miles from Peterborouo-h.
The machinery is on a gigantic scale. One hundred
and thirty-six saws were working with tremendous
velocity, reducing huge logs to planks at the rate of
nearly fifty an hour. Instead of using files to

SAW-MILLS.

101

sharpen the saws, a powerful punching machine is
employed, which cuts fresh faces on the teeth ; a
process combif^'ng greater efficiency with saving of
time.

A portion of the machinery is employed for making
laths, besides plank-sawing. This mill, in common
with others in Canada, works day and night, devour-
ing 70,000 logs in the season of nine months ; but,
though the quantity of planks produced is prodigious,
the demand generally exceeds the supply. Indeed,
such is the ihcrease of the lumber trade, that new
mills on a gigantic scale are being erected, not only
on the Otonabee, but on other rivers favourably
situated for the purpose.

During last summer a block of mills was com-
pleted on the St. Francis river, in Canada East,
exclusively for the lumber trade. At a low estimate,
these mills will saw in a season 20,000,000 feet of
long lumber, and two trains will be in requisition to
carry the planks to Portland, from whence they will
be shipped to all parts of the world.

To feed such establishments from the northern
forests, involves an enormous amount of capital
and labour. The firm of Egan and Co., who uxe
at the head of the lumber trade on the Ottawa,
employ in the forests through which that noble river

H 3

102

A VACATION TOUlt.

passes, 1,700 horses, 200 bullocks, besides 400 double
teams on the road, engaged in the conveyance of
food and forage. During the winter 1854-5 (th3
timber is cut in this season), they had 3,800 men in
their scvyice, and 100 lumbering establishments in
various parts of the country. Their consumption
of pork amounts to lOOu barrels annually, with
other provisions in proportion. The cash transac-
tions to keep this enormous machinery in motion
exceed 2,000,000 dollars a year.

The returns of the exports of white pine alone
from Quebec during the last six years show a vast
increase; 17,400,000 cubic feet having been ex-
ported in 1853, and only 9,626,000 cubic feet in
1847.

The question naturally arises, how long will the
Canadian forests continue to meet the enormous
demand for timber. With a view of obtaining some
information on this point, Government recently in-
stituted an inquiry as to the probable duration of
the supply in various districts; and it was ascer-
tained M-t in the Ottawa forest-region alone there
was timber s ifficient lu feed the mills on that noble
river, at their present rate of consumption, for 600
years.

A glance at the map of North America shows how
small a portion of that vast country is included in

BAD llOADS.

103

this survey; so that, although new channels of com-
munication >vill be opened into the interior with the
extension of commerce, it is not unreasonable to
regard the supply of timber as almost inex'ianstible.

Resuming our drive we entered the ...sh, now
unenlivened by settlements, their absence being made
painfully sensible to us by the terrible condition of
the road. Holes masked by mud were of constant
occurrence. Into these our vehicle plunged with a
crash, threatening to reduce it to atoms ; but, much
to my surprise, it was on each occasion dragged out
by the willing horses, apparently uninjured. Worse,
however, than the holes, was the dreadful corduroy
composed of large logs, over which we bumped with
a dislocatory motion, rendering it difficult to keep
one's seat. To avoid these bad places, we frequently
turned aside into the bush, preferring to rough it
through the tangled underwood; and occasionally
drove in the bed of the river when it afforded an
easier route. So bad, in short, was this road, that
although we had only a dozen miles to drive, we
were five hours on the way. But as our bones
out-lasted the jolting, the varied incidents were
highly diverting. As we approached Douro, the
forest gave place to clearings, affording charming
views of the scenery of this favoured township.

104

A VACATION TOUIl.

Presently v.e came to small houses and log-huts sown
broadcast upon the land : the commenc jment of a
town to which the name of Lakefield has been given,
as the sheet of water from whence the Otonabee
issues is within a short distance. Hastening on-
wards, for an ominous black cloud threatened a
storm, we at length arrived at Major Strickland's
settlement, and had just time to get under shelter,
when the thunder-cloud discharged its contents in
torrents of rain, imparting a delicious coolness to the
atmosphere. It has been said everything is on a
larger scale in the New World than in the old. That
the thunder is louder, and the rain heavier in Canada,
than in England is certain ; at least, if what I heard
and saw on this occasion were fair specimens of these
phenomena.

Fortunately the Major was at home, and as soon
as the weather permitted we crossed the yard to his
house, where we received a warm welcome. Dinner
was immediately ordered, and as impromptu repasts
are of constant occurrence in the bush, where even
stage-coaches are unknown, we were soon seated
before fare which, if a little rough, had the advantage
of being highly appreciated by the zest of keen
hunger. But it would have ill accorded with my
expectation or desire to have found luxuries in the

AGRICULTURAL PUPILS.

105

bush, for I had come to see the life led by the bold
settler who makes his home in the wilderness. As
we sat down, the Major's son stepped out into the
verandah, and blew a long and loud blast upon a
horn, which was answered by the arrival of half-a-
dozen fine young men wearing loose trousers and red
flannel hunting-shirts secured round the waist by a
leather belt, from whence formidable knives depended.
In a few minutes, another party of young men made
their appearance similarly attired. I was somewhat
puzzled ; for although I knew the Major Lad more
than one son, I had not heard that his children were
as numerous as those vouchsafed to the patriarchs of
old.

The mystery was explained by the Major telling
me the young gentlemen were his pupils, whom he
received into his house for a term of years, and in-
structed In various agricultural pursuits and matters
relating to a settler's life. Thus a young man dis-
posed to settle in the backwoods, by the payment
of a small annual sum, has an opportunity of ac-
quiring the Information requisite fo^ the successful
pursuit of his proposed career, with the soundest
practical advice in the selection of cleared or un-
cleared land ; for Major Strickland Is an old settler,
and moreover agent to the Canada Land Company.

106

A VACATION TOUR.

And should the roughing which he has to submit to
during his probation cause him to turn aside from his
intention, he has the satisfaction of not losing his
capital, which is too frequently sacrificed n the pur-
chase of experience.

As my friends had to return to Peterborough, and
had no desire to be permanently engulphed in a mud
hole, or wrecked on the ribs of a corduroy during
night hours, they departed in the afternoon, leaving
me in the care of my kind host. Under his guidance
I took a walk through a portion of the township, and
was initiated into the mysteries of clearing land, the
first business of a settler's life. This is a tedious pro-
cess, nine or ten years being required to get rid of most
stumps. Hard wood stumps, such as beech, maple,
oak, iron-wood, elm, &c., rot out in that period, but
pine stumps remain sound much longer, and require
to be either burnt out or extracted by the aid of oxen
or horses. It is, however, when the stumps are in the
ground, that the heaviest crops are obtained from the
virgin soil, which for some years requires no manure.
At the same time, no wise farmer will exhaust the
vegetable supersoil by taxing its wonderful producing
properties too severely.

In the course of our ramble, we came upon a small
clearing, where a newly-arrived settler was preparing

LOG IIOUSF'^

107

a site for a log house. Squared timber was ready
for the humble edifice ; and according to custom, the
emigrant was to be assisted by his neighbours in
" raising " his future home. Here, as elsewhere, in
Canada, excellent fellowship prevails among the
settlers; though, as Major Strickland observed, it
frequently happens that the numerous wants of recent
arrivals press heavily on the generosity of old settlers.
In the township of Douro, uncleared land sells from
2s. to 7s. an acre, and the cost of clearing, fencing and
preparing this acre for sowing is about 3^., the
expense varying according to the nature of the
timber. The value of cleared land has risen enor-
mously : desirable farms, which a few years ago
were worth only 4Z. an acre, now sell for 10^.

Lord Elgin states in his last report to Government,
dated Dec, 1854, " The upset price of Government
Wild Land in Canada, varies from Is. to 7s. Qd.
currency an acre, according to quality ; and by the
rules of the Crown Land Department now in force, it
is conceded at these rates, except in special cases, in
lots of not m^re than 200 acres, on condition of actual
settlement, of erecting a dwelling house, and clearing
one-fourth of the lot before the patent can be
obtained." I may add that log-houses cost from 51.
to 50/., and frame-houses from 75/. to 300/.

108

A VACATION TOUR.

It was pleasant to find that, with the growing
prosperity of Lakefield, the public worship of God
has not been forgotten. A small stone church has
been erected, and a clergyman who has lately taken
up his residence at Douro has undertaken to do duty.
Hitherto the little community had assembled as op-
portunity offered, sometimes in each other's houses,
and occasionally, when the weather was propitious, in
Nature's temple of prayer, —

•' Pillar'd with the grand old forests,
Roof d with broad expansive blue ;
Flowers springing up for carpets
Bathed in pearly hanging dew ; "

for the wilderness yet closely wraps the young set-
tlement in its sylvan folds.

On our way home, we visited some of the oldest
settlers in Douro, who occupy pleasant houses, com-
manding charming views of Clear Lake and the
Otonabee. To those who have been educated in a
school of formal conventionalities, the freedom of
bush-life appears strange. Without further warning
than was given by a dog, we walked from the
verandah into drawing-rooms, the tenants of which
did not seem at all disconcerted by our presence ; but,
on the contrary, gave us a most cordial welcome, and

SCENERY NEAR DOURO.

109

pressed us to take refreshments. The interior of
these houses is most comfortable ; and, were it not
that the bush shuts out the distant view, it would
require no great effort to imagine the scenery Eng-
lish. Returning by the lake-shore, we passed
through clumps of cedar bushes, which, after the re-
freshing thunder-shower, loaded the air with delicious
balsamic perfume. It was a lovely evenino-. A
magnificent sunset flooded the west with crimson
glory, bridging the lake with bars of gold ; and, as
my eyes rested on the fair landscape and prosperous
settlement — so different to the city, with

" The crowd, the hum, the shock of men," —

I thought that, after all, the life of a settler amidst
such scenes,

" With one fair spirit for his minister,"

must have many peaceful pleasures, when the battle
with the wilderness is over, and the earth brings
forth her increase.

On our return we found the young gentlemen
putting their rifles in order, and eagerly planning
a deer-hunt for the following morning. The
woods abound with these animals, which are
started by dogs and driven towards the lake; the
sport consisting in either shooting them as they

110

A VACATION TOUR.

bound across openings in the forest, or capturing
them in the water. A locality is assigned to every
person joining the sport, wliere he is enjoined to
remain until he has either the good fortune to shoot
the deer, or is apprised that the game has gone off in
another direction.

The necessary preliminaries having been arrano-ed
to the satisfaction of all parties, we sat down to
supper, after which songs were sung with fortissimo
choruses ; for, at the time of my visit, Major Strick-
land's domestic establishment had not the advantage
of a lady at its head. At the same time, I must say,
social conviviality never degenerated to coarseness ;
and though the red hunting-shirts, looming through
tobacco-smoke, gave the company a brigandish ap-
pearance, gentlemanly conduct was as strongly
maintained as if the scene of our merrimeni had been
a London drawing-room.

As the deer-hunt was fixed for an early hour, we
soon retired to rest; and, thanks to fatigue and a
good bed, I was in a few minutes in the land of
dreams, from whence I did not emerge until roused
by the hunting party. The scene of the sport was
about two miles from the iiouse. The dogs wore
sent into the forest, and the hunters repaired to their
places. Faithful to thei" instructions, they remained

A DEEll-IIUNT.

Ill

at their post a long time, with their 3yes " peel'cl,"
as tlie Yankees say, and their ears alive to the faintest
sound. But it was not my fortune either to shoot
the deer or see it; for although one was started, it took
a course towards the interior of the bush, into which
it was pursued by the dogs. The preconcerted signal,
a blast from a horn, set the hunters free; but,
before turning homewards, I could not resist the
desire of penetrating alone into the forest. Carefully
noting conspicuous trees I went on, until wrapped by
the mazy folds of innumerable stems, between which
daylight and gloom struggled for mastery. The
silence, broken only by the occasional scream of a
wild bird or the hum of insects, was painfully op-
pressive ; and, as the spirit of the scene grew upon
me, I felt how truly Goldsmith has pictured the lost
wanderer in an American wilderness : —

" Where beasts with man divided empire claim,
And the brown Indian takes a deadly aim ;
There, while above the giddy tempest flies,
And all around distressful yells arise,
The pensive exile, bending with his wo,
To stop too fearful, and too faint to go.
Casts a fond look where England's glories shine,
And bids his bosom sympathise with mine."

A duck-shooting and fishing expedition, on which
we started after breakfast, was attended with greater

112

A VACATION TOUR.

success than the deer-hunt. These birds in autumn
are numerous, and easy of approach, as the sportsmen
are masked by the rice-beds among which they feed.
It would, indeed, have been easy to shoot dozens of
these fowl ; but we were content with a moderate bag,
and relinquishing our guns, prepared our tackle for
basse fishing. Stout rods and lines are requisite for
this sporting and heavy fish, which on this occasion,
I am sorry to say, we captured with bait. No flies
were to be had; so the tourist who may be tempted
to visit the backwoods on a sporting expedition, will
do well to bring a supply with him.

The piscatorial wealth of the water was amazing.
Standing on a raft constructed expressly for fishing,
moored in favourable localities, we caught in the
course of a few hours several basse, weighing from
two to four pounds each, besides numerous goodiy
perch and sun-fish, glorious in their golden splendour,
which eagerly struggled for the bait with their finny
brethren.

But pleasant as are my associations witli Lake
Clear, — its beauteous wooded isles, around which the
basse love to lead

*' A cold, sweet, silver life, wrapped in round waves,
Quickened with touches of transporting fear,"—

TROLLING FOR MASKINONGE. H3

more undying memories attach to an excursion, on
the last (lay of my brief sojourn at Lakefield, to visit
some Indians in their lodge on an island in an upper
lake.

Major Strickland paddled me in his log canoe ;
giving me, before starting, strict injunctions to main-
tain as perfect an equilibrium as possible, as the
slightest swerve would in all probability result in
precipitating us into the lake ; a difficulty which
promised to be increased, as part of our plan was
to troll for maskinonge. Now, as these fish are
noted for their great size and strength, it was evi-
dent no small care would be requisite, should I
capture one of these monsters, to keep the canoe
steady ; for matters were so arranged that, while
half-reclined at one end, the Major, squatted on
his hams, paddled at the other; and a stout troll-
ing-line was towed astern, one extremity of which
was secured to my right arm. The bait used for
maskinonge is curious ; being a large spoon of po-
lished metal, generally copper or brass, within the
concavity of which a strong hook is soldered. A
swivel attached to the head of the spoon allows it to
rotate when drawn rapidly through the water; and
whether it be that maskinonge are spoon-fed during
their infancy, or other reason, I cannot say ; but it is

114

A VACATION TOUR.

certain they have a groat fondness for this glittering
bait. But the reader will, perhaps, want to know
what a maskinongc is like. Similar to the pike in
shape (Esox estor of Cuvicr), it is generally much
larger ; and though the weight of a fish is often its
only title to fame, the maskinonge has the merit of
being good as well as great. In common with the
pickerel, which occupies a position somewhere between
the trout and perch, it is peculiar to the United
States, and especially to the great lakes and the
northern waters, where it is very abundant. This 1
can confirm ; for we had not made much progress
before I felt a sharp twitch at my arm, quickly
succeeded by a pull which arrested the skiflTs pro-
gress. Taking the line in my hand, I played the fish
as well as I could, and succeeded eventually in
drawing him alongside. To secure him was, how-
ever, quite beyond my skill, for he was of prodigious
size. Handing the tackle to the Major, he dex-
terously swung our prize into the canoe, where he
was speedily reduced to tranquillity by a well-ad-
ministered blow on the back of his head from a small
mallet. He weifrhed 22 lbs. ; and those who have
captured large and strong pike will conceive the
exciting work it was to battle with such a fellow
from the narrow confines of a log canoe. We
afterwards caught two more ; and might have

REACH AT CLEAR LAKE. II5

swelled the number to almost any amount, had we
felt inclined. But wo could not fish and visit the
Indians ; so we wound up our lines and paddled
swiftly through the bright waters. The trip was
delightful. At the head of Clear Lake, a reach, not
unlike that separating the upper and middle Kil-
larney lakes, occurs, studded by wooded islands.
On one of these the Indians were camped ; but there
was no sign of life, nor could we detect amidst the
dense foliage a landing-place.

A wild whoop from my companion was answered
by an Indian, who burst through the bush and
motioned us to a little creek, where we disem-
barked. Following our swarthy guide, we came
suddenly on a small clearing, in the centre of which
was the lodge. A more picturesque spot could not
well be conceived,, The ground, mantled by a va-
riety of wild flowers, sloped gently towards the Lake.
Lofty trees shut out the oppressive sun, and a tiny
brook gurgled sweetly as it leaped into daylight from
the gloom of the forest. The lodge was constructed
of birch-bark, open at the top for the egress of
smoke. Around were various hunting and fishing
implements. Portly fish, with strips of bear-flesh
and venison hanging on poles in process of curing,
attested how efficiently these had been used.

I 2

116

A VACATION TOUR.

Pushing aside the buffalo-skin serving as a door,
we entered the lodge, from which, however, I was
nearly driven by the dense and acrid smoke. The
family consisted of the Indian's wife, mother-in-law,
and two girls, who were squatted round the fire
superintending a save- £y mess of boiled ducks, fish,
and squirrels.

The women and girls could not speak a word of
English. The excessive natural simplicity of the
girls and the freedom of their limbs were remarkable.
With their naked feet, which were beautifully formed,
they seized fragments of wood and cast them on the
fire with the same ease as we should perform the
operation with our hands.

The whole scene was sufficiently wild and novel
to be very interesting ; and I sincerely recommend
the tourist to turn aside from the beaten track to
visit the Indians in the bush. He must not, however,
expect to see the wild savage in this part of North
America. The white man has driven him into the
far west beyond the Mississippi. But though the
Ojibeways residing in Upper Canada pass a consider-
able portion of the year in the outskirts of towns,
their hunting spirit breaks forth in the autumn,
when, casting off the trammels of civilisation, at all
times galling and perplexing, they seek the wilder-

DECREASE OF 0JIBEWAY8.

117

ness, erect their lodges by the side of a lake or
stream, and spend their days hunting and fishing;
while their squaws make Indian ornaments, or sew
the seams of birch-bark canoes, for which they have a
constant demand from settlers. The Indian whom I
visited had several of these graceful boats in hand,
for each of which he was to receive six dollars.

Tlie Ojibeways inhabiting this portion of Canada
number about 1200. They are, however, like other
tribes, decreasing. In an address which they pre-
sented to Loru Metcalfe in 1843, they touchingly
remark : — « Great Father I We are feebly at-
tempting to walk in the footsteps of your people :
we see them increase while we wither and perish
like the autumn leaf; but we, also, will cease to be
hunters, and seek in the bosom of the earth that food
for our wives and children for whicli we vainly toil
in our rapidly disappearing forests."

Notwitlistanding these words, the Ojibeways are
not proof against the pleasures of the chase. The
game and fish in the forests and lakes north of
Peterborough draw many Indians into those regions.
Numerous varieties of wild fowl swarm. A few
weeks before my visit to Douro a pelican was shot
by an Indian.

We returned to Lakefield in the evening ; and the

I 8

118

A VACATION TOUR.

following day my kind host drove me to Peter-
borough. On our way he frequently expatiated on
the state of the road, which I thouglit wretched,
but which he contrasted with the condition of things

when it took him an entire day to journey from
Peterborough to his home in the bush.

119

CHAP. V.

JOURNEY TO COBURG.-— ROUGH TRAVELLING Tllli THOU-
SAND ISLANDS. — CANADIAN FARMS RAFTS. — RAPIDS.

— DESCENT OF THE CEDARS'. — EXCITEMENT. — ANEC-
DOTE OF MOORE's CANADIAN BOAT-SONG VILLAGE OF

THE RAPIDS. — LA CLAIRE FONTAINE. — CANADIAN
SINGING. — LA CHINE RAPID. — INDIAN PILOT. — MON-
TREAL. — INDEPENDENCE. —HOCHELAG A. — CATHEDRAL.

— SUPERSTITION ARTILLERY BARRACKS GEOLO-
GICAL MUSEUM VICTORIA BRIDGE. — FARMS OF THE

" HABITANS." SEIGNORIAL RIGHTS. — IMPORTANCE OF

MONTREAL.

Had an aristocratic English M. P. seen our party,
consisting of tlio Member of Parliament for Peter-
borough, a New York merchant, and myself
journeying to Coburg, he would, I apprehend, have
formed rather a strange idea of his colonial legislative
brethren. For, the day being very warm, we divested
ourselves of coat and waistcoat, and, using our
umbrellas as parasols, jogged along pleasantly
enough ; flourishing settlements and good roads alter-
nating with the forest and « corduroy ;" which, if not
so smooth, gave at least variety to the drive.

We arrived at Coburg in the afternoon, dined at the

1 4

120

A VACATION TOUR.

Globe Hotel,— a large establishment conducted on the
United States system, — and at six were on our way to
Kingston in the mail steamer. Here we changed boats,
and at five in the morning commenced our descent
of the St. Lawrence. The hazy veil of smoke which
had dimmed the river on my previous visit to King-
ston had entirely disappeared, and the glorious river
gleamed among the thousand isles like molten silver
in the morning sun. Our passage among these
was most picturesque; now winding through laby-
rinthine channels scarcely wider than tho breadth of
the steamboat, now crossing broad reaches of the
river as large as our English lakes. The grand
scale of nature in this country, always striking, is
here almost overwhelming. Well did Moore write of
this scenery, as on a scale

" which man,

Caged in the hounds of Europe's pigmy plan,
Can scarcely dream of; which his eye must see,
To know how beautiful this world can be ! "

The variety of wood, rock, and water is endless,
and if the islands, which are of all dimensions, and
considerably exceed one thousand in number, were
not so uniform in height, the scenery would be per-
fect. Looking into the future, which in this part
of Canada unfolds visions of boundless prosperity, I

THE RAPIDS.

121

thought the time, probably, not far distant, when
these islands will be the summer homes of merchant
princes whose fleets will cover the St. Lawrence.

Tlie contrast between the American and Canadian
shores of this mighty river is very remarkable. On
tlie left bank extensive farms, rivalling those in the
old country are of frequent occurrence, while the
right bank is clothed by the unbroken primeval
forest, which comes down to the water's edge.

We passed numerous ships and smaller craft,
besides rafts of enormous dimensions, on which
curious plank structures were erected to catch the
favouring breeze. A short distance below Prescott,
the current, which above that town flows with
majestic smoothness, becomes broken, aff"ording
evidence of the vicinity of the rapids. Happily the
day was most propitious, for sunshine is essential to
the enjoyment of the wonderful spectacle. Presently
a long line of foam-crested waves appeared on the
water horizon, and dashing on, for our speed was now
excessive, we were soon battling with the first rapid.
The might and majesty of the lordly St. Lawrence is
deeply impressed on the mind by tlie rushing waters ;
which, however, neither here, nor at the two next
rapids, attain the fulness of their strength ; for, grand
as they are, the « Calars " far surpasses tliem in

122

A VACATION TOUR.

sublimity. Here, the river, confined between islands,
seems to gather strength for its mightiest effort. The
huge breakers roaring madly over the rocks, the
delicious 'green tint of the water crested by snow-
white foam,, the surging tide dashing evermore against
the shore, form a picture set in a frame of magni-
ficent cedars clothing the banks, alike unequalled and
wonderful. How the steamer lives in the strife is
amazing. Standing at the bow, I saw and felt her
plunge into the boiling caldron amidst rocks, colli-
sion with which would involve instant destruction ;
then, bounding upwards she rushed with reelinp-
motion down for miles. The excitement is consider-
ably enhanced by a sense of risk which cannot be
cast off.

At the lower extremity of Lake St. Francis— a
magnificent expanse of the river forty miles long — a
stone monument marks the boundary between Upper
and Lower Canada. The neat houses of the French
Canadians, with their red roofs and trim gardens,
occu])y both banks of the river. After running
more formidable rapids, we arrived at the mouth of
the magnificent Ottawa, whose dark tide rolls on un-
mixed with the clear waters of the St. Lawrence.
Here is the scene of Moore's undying "Canadian
Boat Song," which he wrote on the fifth day of his

*'LA CLAIRE FONTAINE."

123

descent of the St. Lawrence from Kingston.* Now
the passage is made in one day ; but the romance of
the voyage is in a great measure destroyed by the
mode of transport being a puffing steamer instead of
a bark canoe. On arriving opposite the Iroquois
settlement of Caughnawaga, or « The Village of the
Rapids " (in allusion to those a short distance below),
we caught snatches of « La Claire Fontaine," the
national air of the Canadian inhabitants.

The voices proceeded from voyageurs navigating a
huge raft. As they dashed the ponderous oars in
the water, they enlivened their toils by singing their
favourite song. I procured a copy of it at Quebec.
The following stanzas will sufficiently describe its
nature :

" A la claire fontaine,
M'en allant promener,

* Thirty-three years after he wrote this song I had the

l.loasure of showing Moore the original MS., which he had en-

tirely forgotten. He had pencilled the lines, nearly as they

stand in his works, in the blank page of a book which happened

to be in his canoe, from whence he transcribed them at night.

The sight of the original copy of these famous lines, recalHng

youthful days and happy associations, produced a great effect

on the poet, who alluded, in a touching manner, to his passage

down the rajjids of life.

124 A VACATION TOUU.

J'ai trouvc I'eau si belle
Que je me suis baigne.

II y a long- temps que je t'aime,

Jamais je ne t'oublierai.

" Chante, rossignol chante,
Toi qui as le coeur gai ;
Tu as le cocui' a rire,
Moi je I'ai a pleurer ;
II y a, &c.

" Tu as le coeur a rire,
Moi je I'ai h, pleurer ;
J'ai perdu ma maitresse,
Sans pouvoir la trouver ;
II y a, &c."

We were now approaching " La Chine," the head-
quarters of the Hudson's Bay Company, from whence
the voyageurs start in the spring, up the Ottawa, to
the Company's hunting-grounds. La Chine derives
its name from a curious circumstance, related by
Charlevoix. The unfortunate De Sales, who was
murdered by his countrymen, was firmly persuaded
a passage to China existed by the St. Lawrence ; but
having been arrested in his progress at this place, his
companions gave it the name which it retains. An-
other instance of the strong belief formerly entertained
of the existence of a passage to India through the
North American continent.

RUNNING LA CHINE.

As our captain decided there was

125

IS sufficient day-
light to run La Chine, the most dangerous of all
the rapids, we slackened our speed in order to re-
ceive an Indian pilot, whose business it is to navigate
the steamer to Montreal. Our signal was quickly
answered by a canoe darting across the waters bear-
ing a stalwart Indian, a noble specimen of his race.
His stern features were in keeping with his onerous
task, as the slightest error would be fatal.

The excitement and danger in shooting this tre-
mendous rapid consists in its tortuous channel,
about eight feet deep, ..nd avoiding a terrible black
rock in the midst of the raging waters. Before
coming to it, each passenger was desired to remain
quiet in his allotted place. Eight men were at the
wheel directed by the Indian pilot. Onward sweeps
our steamer, reeling amidst the mad waters ; but just
as collision seemed inevitable, the current and judi-
cious steering whirled her round and swept her clear
of the danger. It is not always, however, that ships
are so fortunate, as fearful collisions have occurred.
The possibility of naming this fierce and awful rapid
in a steamer was discovered by accident,— a ship
having gone down safely against the will of the crew,
who considered their days numbered when they were
drawn within the whelming waters.

126

A VACATION TOUll.

The rays of the setting sun struck the briglit
metal roofs of the cathedral and cluirchcs of Mon-
treal, giving them the appearance of huge lamps in
the sky, as we glided over the lake-like expanse of
the St. Lawrence below the rapids ; and so swift is
the transition from sunset to night in these latitudes,
that it was nearly dark when the steamer paused
abreast of the noble quays at IMontreal. Here a
scene of great confusion ensued. I had my lujicafre
conveyed on shore, and waited patiently until the
crowd and bustle had subsided, thinking a porter
or cabman would appear. All the public carriages,
here called Cuckoos, had, however, departed, and the
offer of handsome payment to a group of labouring
men to carry my portmanteau to a coach-stand met
with a direct refusal. A gentlemen kindly extricated
me from my little difficulty by sending a coach to
me ; and I only mention the circumstance as con-
firmatory of the fact, that the only article wanted
in prosperous Canada is man.

After a long day of intense excitement and enjoy-
ment, I was extremely glad to rest in Donncgana's
hotel, which is bv far the most comfortable house in
Canada.

Standing at an early hour the following morning
on the summit of the mountain at the back of the

VJLLE MARIE.

127

city, I tliought of the emotions Jacques Cartier must
liave experienced wlicn he first beheld tlie magni-
ficent prospect disclosed from this elevation, to wlitcli,
in honour of liis royal master, he gave the name of
Mont Royal. At that period (1535) the Indian
village of Ilochelaga stood on the site of Montreal.
For many miles above and below the St. Lawrence
is seen flowing majestically through a richly-culti-
vated country, expanding frequently into .akesof vast
proportions. A century after the discovery of Iloclie-
hga, the French, with much solemnity, founded a
city on the site, to which they gave the name of Ville
Marie; and although, in common with all other
French settlements in North America, it subsequently
came into the possession of Great Britain, the original
French features remain singularly unaltered. The
streets in the old parts of the city retain their ancient
saintly names ; French is heard in all quarters, parti-
cularly in the markets ; and the vast Roman Catholic
cathedral, calculated to contain 10,000 persons, with
its convents, nunneries, and other ecclesiastical esta-
blishments, attest the former sway of the French and
the abiding influence of the Roman Catholic religion.
The cathedral presents evidence of superstition rivals
ling the most priest-ridden parts of Italy. A large
glass case near the entrance contains a disgusting re-

1 1

128

A VACAnON TOUU.

presentation in wax of a herd of swine devouring
children, witli the following explanation and appeal to
tlie pockets of the faithful : — "It is in this manner
the unhappy children of China perish every day,
eaten by dogs and swine. Put in a trifle for tlie sal-
vation of your souls." Numerous coins on the floor
of the miniature chapel in front of the revolting exhi-
bition show that the priests have hit on an ingenious
device for filling their coffers, and that here, as well
as elsewhere, the sordid schemes of all priestcraft end
in four words, — ubl panis ibi deus. I had letters to
artillery officers at Montreal, from whom I received
much hospitable kindness. Considerable bustle and
excitement stirred the generally quiet military circle,
in consequence of the troops having been ordered to
England. The fine artillery horses were sold by
auction, and realised about 80Z. each.

The geological tourist will be much interested by
a visit to the museum recently formed by Mr. Logan,
direcior of the Geological Survey of Canada. Here,
arranged in admirable order, are a series of fossils
from the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, besides innu-
merable specimens illustrating the geology of the two
Canadas.

Among the many bold and gigantic structural
designs for which North America is celebrated, the

THE VICTORIA BRIDGE.

129

Victoria Railway Bridge at Montreal takes high
rank. Mr. Stephenson's success in building tlio
Britannia Bridge justified him in adopting the same
plan for the Victoria Bridge, which will be con-
structed on 24 piers, with spaces for navigation
exclusive of the two abutments, whence the tubes
spring on either side. The centre span will be 330
feet, and each of the others 220 feet wide. The
length of the bridge will be 10,284 feet, or about
50 yards less than two English miles. The clear
distance between the under surface of the centre tube
and the average summer level of the river will be 60
feet, diminis.iing towards each side. Two hundred
and ten thousand tons of stone will be used in the
construction of the piers, and 10,400 tons of iron on
the tube, girders, &c. It is proposed to complete
the bridge in 1860. At the present rate of progress,
the expenditure will averr-e 250,000/. annually.
The Colossus of Rhodes, under which the pigmy
shallops of former ages sailed, was esteemed a wonder
of the Old V^orld. But an iron bridge, spanning a
river two miles in width, giving safe passage to
burdens of hundreds of tons on its rivetted floor,
and permitting ships of large tonnage to sail be-
neath it, is an achievement still more remarkable
for the New World, and is worthy of the young

130

A VACATION TOUR.

! II

giant rising in the West. The great enemy with
wliicii the structure will have to contend is ice,
which in spring ruslics down tlie river in vast masses
with a force a[)i)arently irresistible. Mr. Steplienson
has of course designed the piers of his bridge in
sucli a manner as to resist enormous pressure ; and in
his report to the Directors of the Great Trunk
Railway, ho says, that although all the modifications of
forces are clearly beyond the reach of calculation, he
has been careful to provide against an amount of
pressure fai* greater than what the best authorities
describe as existing in the severest seisons.

The estimated cost of this undertaking is 1,400,000/. ;
doubtless a largo amount, but the commercial ad-
vantages will be proportionately great. For with-
out this bridge, the vast and rapidly increasing
commerce of Canada would be sealed up during
six months of the year ; whereas by an uninterrupted
communication across the St. Lawrence, the traffic of
the North American colonies will be brought at all
seasons into direct and easy access with all the ports
on the Atlantic, from Halifax to Boston and New
York, and consequently through these ports nearer to
Europe.

In the course of a drive throuo-h the environs of
Montreal, I saw the farms of some of the habltans,

MONTREAL.

131

clcscondants of the original French settlers. These
.settlements arc interesting, as being relics of the
ancient feudal tenure which was transplanted to the
New World when the system was in full force m
Europe. The kings of France, as feudal lords,
gave to noblemen and officers titles to lands, deno-
minated seigniories, held from the sovereign en/ief, on
condition of their rendering fealty or homage for the
same. The kings of Great Britain becoming suc-
cessors to the claims of the kings of France, the
custom was continued, and the gifts were ex-
tended. The extent of these grants may be judg-^d
from the fact that Quebec, including Anticosti nnd
other islands, held 79 seigniories, comprising 5,656,^99
acres; Montreal and three islands, 63 seigniories,
comprising 2,786,011 acres. Three Rivers: and
St. Francis, 63 seigniories, comprising 1,039,707
acres; Gaspe and other isles, 25 seigniories, of
1,318,117 acres; in all 167 seigniories, and nearly
11,000,000 acres. A seventh part of the waste
land, given up by royal decree to be distributed
among all sects excepting Roman Catholics, consti-
tuted the celebrated Clergy Reserves, the secular-
isation of which has now happily been settled by
the Provincial government.

The seigniorial privileges, at one time oppressive,

R 2

132

A VACATION TOUR.

arc now very mild, so much so indeed, that although
laws have been passed enabling tenants, or censitaires
as they are called, to commute their seigneurs pri-
vileges for a small paymen' , *hey prefer remaining in
the condition of their forefathers. But a controversy
has arisen respecting the sale of seigniorial lands
which threatens serious consequences unless equitably
adjusted. Certain jurists contend that by the custom
of the country established before its conquest by
Great Britain, the seigniors are bound to sell their
lands in lots of 100 acres to the first applicant, in
consideration of the payment of certain dues, and a
rent not exceeding one penny an acre. The seig-
niors, on the other hand, maintain their right to
receive such rents as they can obtain.

Great prosperity existed among thj farms which I
visited. Orchards, famous for their delicious apples,
abounded, and the variety of other fruits and vege-
tables shows that the land is highly prolific, and
cultivation successfully practised. Indeed, it is a
pleasant sight to see these French settlers on their
prcperous little farms.

There are many charming villas In the neighbour-
hood of Montreal commanding lovely views. Some
of these belong to merchants engaged in extensive
business operations in the city. Montreal, from its

MONTREAL.

133

population (60,000) and situation, may be regarded
as the capital of Canada, though no longer enjoying
the honour of being the seat of government. The
outrageous conduct of certain parties, followed by the
destruction of the parliament houses, caused Lord
Elgin to remove to Quebec. Lord Metcalfe, how-
ever, who was a clear-sighted governor, at the close
of his administration expressed himself thus strongly
in favour of Montreal : —

" It is not only the principal place in population,
wealth, and commerce, but is also the only place
where the English and French races can amalgamate.
Kingston is a foreign land to the French Canadians ;
except the few gentlemen who, as office-holders, are
drawn by their duties to the seat of government, it
scarcely contains a single inhabitant of that race."

Besides its importance as a great commercial em-
porium, Montreal is celebrated for its extensive
financial operations. The tourist whose exchequer
needs replenishing will do well to remember he can
obtain all descriptions of coin in this city; and it may
be worth mentioning that the English shilling bears
the rather perplexing value of fifteen pence, and the
English sovereign of twenty-four shillings and four
pence.

K 3

I i'

I !

134

A VACATION TOUU.

CHAP. VI.

VOi'AGE TO QUEUEC. — HEIGHTS OF AURAIIAJI. — CALECHE.

— BAD HOTELS. — EOUTHaCATlO.NS. MAGNIFICENT

VIEW. — Wolfe's monument. — okay's elegy. — open-
ing OF parliament. — loud ELGIN. — POLITICAL
iiATTLUS FRENCH SPEECHES. — ELECTION OF SPEAKER.

PLACE HUNTING JOBBING. GATHERING OF MEM-
BERS. — LOWER TOWN. — INTEMPEIIANCE. — HiSTORICAL
SOCIETY. — DEPARTURE OF THE MILITARY. — CANADIAN
BEAUTIES. — FALLS OF MONTMORENCI SPENCER WOOD.

— GARRISON MESS. — LEAVE QUEBEC. EMIGRANTS. —

ARRIVE AT TORONTO.

The distance by water from Montreal to Quebec
(180 miles), by the great comfort and elegance of
the mode of transit, is almost annihilated. Larf'-e
steamboats leave Montreal every evening at seven
o'clock, and arrive at Quebec at the same hour the
following morning. The vessel ii . which I voyaged
was unusually crowded, upwards of 300 passengers
being on board ; fortunately I secured a state-room
in the morning— a wise precaution — and thus suf-
fered no inconvenience. The saloon at supper-time,
with its 300 occupants, presented a singular appear-
ance ; but, though there was an extraordinary run on

HEIGHTS OF ABRAHAM.

135

the provisions, and stewards were in great request,
tlic utmost regularity and order prevailed. This was
the more surprising as the company was very mixed,
consisting of all political grades and parties, who dis-
cussed with great warmth the probable fall of the
reigning administration.

At a late hour I retired to my state-room, where I
enjoyed perfect privacy and an excellent bed. When
I rose in the morning the steamer was passing under
high cliffs, which for a considerable distance above
Quebec confine the St. Lawrence in a narrow channel.
The cold was intense ; and was the more felt as at
Montreal the temperature was uncomfortably warm.
Large ships lined the left bank of the river, moored
amidst enormous rafts. Presently the celebrated
heights of Abraham appeared, beyond which Quebec
was visible, with its picturesque church steeples.
Gliding through a fleet of timber-ships our steamer
took a sweep round, and, as the clocks were'strikino-
seven, came to rest opposite a pier projecting from
the lower town. On landing my cars were assailed
by cries of « calash, calash," the old French calkhe
being still the favourite public carriage of Quebec.
In one of these I proceeded through, or rather ^/p,
the lower to the higher town,— for the road is almost
precipitous, — and was set down at Husscirs Hotel,

K 4

136

A VACATION TOUR.

where a friend had secured a room for me. At all
seasons the Quebec hotels are bad ; but when I was
there, in consequence of the opening of parliament
having brought crowds of people into the city, they
were peculiarly wretched. My room was one of a
suite improvised for the occasion out of a dining-
room, and bore very great resemblance to a wooden
box of rather large proportions with two small holes
serving for door and window. There was, however,
nothing better to be had ; and I was told to consider
myself fortunate, having my box to myself. After a
wonderful scrambling breakfast I set out to explore
the city, and bent my steps in the first instance to the
citadel. This, thanks to an officer of the engineers,
to whom I had a letter of introduction, I saw in
detail, — passing through the underground communi-
cations and over bastions bristling with heavy
cannon, which are not accessible to the public.

The circuit of the fortifications enclosing the upper
town is two miles and three-quarters ; the total cir-
cumference, outside the ditches and space reserved by
government, on which no house can be built on the
west side, is about three miles. The upper town
may be said to be entirely surrounded by a lofty and
strong wall of hewn stone. The castellated appear-
ance produced by the battlements, ditches, embra-

MAGNIFICENT VIEW.

137

sures, round towers and gates, adds much to tlie grand
ai; i imposing effect of the place. But although the
fortifications, with all their complicated war ma-
chinery, are exceedingly interesting, and should not
be left unvisited, the view from the flag-staff tower,
three hundred and sixty feet above the river, is the
great feature lingering pleasantly in the remembrance
of the traveller. This is admitted to be one of the
finest in the world, presenting a rare combination of
mountains, valleys and plains, watered by the
St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, and if the
scene be lighted by a September sun, its magnificence
and rich variety are the more impressive.

Few cities have had so fair a cradle as Quebec,
wliich was founded on the site of an Indian village,
called Stadacona, signifying, in the Algonquin lan-
guage, the Place of a Strait. Gazing on it, we cannot
wonder at the French striking a medal with the
words,

" Francia in Novo orbe victrix,
Kebeca liberata 1690 ; "

when in that year success crowned their arms ; nor
that proportionate sorrow was felt, when, in a little
more than half a century afterwards, the daring
prowess and judgment of Wolfe transferred it to the
British Crown.

138

A VACATION TOUK.

Having preparea myself, by an examination of the
very interesting original plan of the Battle of Quebec,
preserved in the citadel, I went to the plains of
Abraham, which commence a short distance from
the fortifications. Here the fate of Canada was
decided; and when we look at the scene, and re-
member how fearful the odds were against Wolfe,
we are lost in admiration of his courage and military
strategy. For it must not be forgotten that, a short
time before this event, he had experienced a sad
reverse at Montmorenci, which struck despair into his
troops, and inspired the brave Montcalm with fresh
energy.

The grey dawn of morn, however, saw Wolfe's army
undismayed on the heights of Abraham, which had
been scaled in the face of frightful difficulties, and
before the sun went down Quebec had fallen. The
mortality and number of wounded were very great.
An account of the battle by an eye-witness, pre-
served in the Seminary, and lately printed by the
Historical Society of Quebec, states that, although
five hundred beds were set up in that convent, as
many more were required. Among the wounded were
seventy-two ofricers,of whom thirty-three died. Lint
and linen were sadly deficient. The nuns, however,
gave all their available Hnen, and tended the wounded

"Wolfe's monument.

139

with great tenderness. The spot where Wolfe re-
ceived liis mortal wound is marked by a column
surmounted by a helmet and sword. The base bears
the simple inscription —

" Here died "Wolfe victorious."

The chivalrous Montcalm was also slain. A monu-
mental pillar erected to these heroes, by Lord
Aylmer on Cape Diamond, bears this well-merited
tribute to Wolfe's gallant enemy : " Honneur k Mont-
calm : Le Destin, en lui derobant la victoire, I'a
recompense par une mort glorieuse." It adds consi-
derably to the interest of the scene of this victory, to
learn that scarcely any alteration has been made in the
disposition of the battle-field, which is still rugged and
barren. Among the chronicles of warriors who have
died in the arms of victory, there is none, perhaps,
to which an Englishman clings with greater interest
than the story of Wolfe's brilliant career and im-
mortal end.* And yet it would seem that when on

Wlien II inotioii was inude in Parliimieut for a monument
to Wolfe, Pitt spoke thus : — " The^orror of the night, the
precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he, Avith a handful of
men, added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of con-
tentedly terminating life where his fame began, — ancient story
may be ransacked, and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the
account, before an episode can be found to rank vvith Wolfe's."

140

A VACATION TOUR.

the eve of his desperate enterprise, peaceful thoughts
occupied his mind. Drifting slowly down the river
on the night before the battle, when silence was
strictly imposed on all in the ships, Wolfe repeated
to his officers surrounding him, the whole of Gray's
undying Elegy, adding, when he had concluded, " I
would rather have written this poem than take
Quebec." Had he a dark fore-shadowing of the
truth, —

" The paths of glory lead but to the grave,"

or did his spirit yearn for peace ?

The tourist will rejoice that there are no dis-
tracting guides on the plains of Abraham ; and should
he not have the misfortune to visit them at the season
of the Quebec races, which are held in an adjoining
enclosure, he will be able to meditate over the past
unmolested. At least, I was left alone ; and, indeed,
so little are the people in the neighbourhood alive to
the interest of the place, that a small public-house
near the plains bears an erroneous designation of the
hero of Quebec.

Great was the contrast between the peaceful
country and the city, which, when I re-entered it
in the afternoon, was roaring with tumult; bands
playing, cannon hring, crowds surging and rushing
wildly to and fru. A great event was at hand. The

OPENING OF PARLIAMENT.

141

Governor-general was on his way to ope?- the Pro-
vincial Parliament. A fatality seems to attend this
body. They have been ousted by fire from their
legitimate places of meeting at Montreal and Quebec.
In the present uncertainty respecting the permanent
seat of Government, no attempt is made to erect a
house fitting to receive the legislature, and ac-
cordingly, the members meet in the Music Hall. The
galleries accommodate a limited number of spectators,
admitted by tickets. Attended by a glittering staff
of officers, and preceded by the civil functionaries,
the Governor (Lord Elgin), in a military uniform,
marched up the body of the house, and having taken
his seat on the "Throne," read his speech to the
assembled members, who mustered numerously. It
was listened to throughout with great attention ; at
its conclusion the Governor bowed, and withdrew.
The ceremony was conducted with solemnity, and
was a reflex on a modest scale of the opening of the
British Parliament.

The galleries too, though not filled by England's
aristocratic daughters, contained a fair array of lovely
faces, who regarded the scene with great interest.
To all, however, it was not equally gratifying. For
some republican spirits of the sterner sex seated near
me, were loud in their denunciations of the " singer-

142

A VACATION TOUR.

bread absurdity," as they styled it, of the whole
affair. The Mace was particularly offensive to them ;
and whatever may have been their historical know-
ledge of the old country, they at least knew that a
sturdy republican had once turned the Mace of the
British Parliament out of doors. I am bound, how-
ever, to say these little ebullitions of feeling were
confined to narrow circles, for the majority of the
spectators behaved with a decorum in harmony with
the solemnity of the proceedings.

When the Governor had departed, a murmur arose
throughout the hall which swelled to loud con-
versation. The political fight was on the eve of
commencing. A speaker was to be elected. Both
parties were sanguine of success. Ministerialists and
the Opposition were ranged on opposite sides of the
house, each member having before him a small desk
with writing materials. Presently silence was re-
stored. The clerk read the Governor's speech ; and
the order of the day for the election of speaker was
announced. Then followed ten specimens of oratory,
seven in French and three in English. Among the
speakers were Mackenzie, the celebrated leader of the
rebel movement at Toronto, whose lancuajie and
action abounded wath excitement and violence ;
Papineau — the O'Conncll of Canada — Hincks, and

POLITICAL BATTLES.

143

M^Nab. The Frcncli Canadians, were, however,
far more eloquent and energetic tlian the English
members.

Bearing in mind the diversity of political opinions
and parties in Canada, and the great difficulty in
harmonising conflicting interests, it was a mistake to
have permitted the French language to be retained
in Parliament and legislative affairs. At present few
persons in Upper Canada are conversant with French,
and consequently Members of Parliament hear long
speeches which they do not comprehend. The
tedium of this infliction was exemplified by the im-
patience manifested by several honourable members
who, by various mocking tones and noises, more
ingenious than gentlemanly, endeavoured to put
down French orators.

Political intrigue, the bane of all good govern-
ment, is unhappily very prevalent in Canada.
The alleged misdoings of Mr. Hincks formed the
subject of the opposition speeches, and it was evident
a strong combination had been formed to cause him
to resign. This result was obtained, to the great joy
of his opponents. The struggle for place is, of course,
the moving power among all parties. Extraordinary
efforts are made to obtain government employment,
which is the more surprising when the unbounded

144

A VACATION TOUR.

field for enterprise in Canada is l)orne in mind.*
But, unhappily, the plethoric prosperity of the
country offers many temptations to abuse power. I
was gratified, however, to find that, with few excep-
tions, a loyal and affectionate spirit exists towards
England. I had a good opportunity of forming a
judgment on this point, as I was in the company of
upwards of fifty Members of Parliament, at my hotel,
after the adjournment of the House. We assembled
in the reading-room, which soon became an arena of
fierce political discussion ; in which. Upper Canada
Conservatives, and Reformers, and French Cana-
dians of all political shades, took part. As the night
advanced, arguments waxed hotter, until at length so
many personalities were exchanged, that I fully
expected to see blows taking the place of words : and
Ions after I retired, the voluble strife of the excited
combatants, interspersed by snatches of loud songs
and louder choruses, rang through the house, and
effectually banished sleep. I was, indeed, so worn
out in the morning by want of rest, that having no

* Lord Durham observes, in his report on Canada, "The
general inclination to jobbing results in a perfect scramble in
the House of Assembly for each to get as much as he can for his
consiltuents and himself." I fear matters are not much im-
proved in this respect since Lord Durham's mission.

I.OWKU TOWN.

145

hope of greater peace during the ensuing night, I
resolved on leaving Quebec, and relinquishing the
pleasure of dining with the garrison officers. With
this intention, I called on my friend at the citadel,
and begged he would excuse my presence at the mess ;
but on explaining the circumstances which led me to
ask his indulgenre, he most kindly insisted on my
occupying a room in his bachelor house, the quiet
comforts of which contrasted very agreeably with
my wretched quarters in Russell's Hotel,

I devoted the morning to a ramble through the
lower town, which extends along the base of the
precipice on the summit of which the upper town is
built. The site has been gained by excavation in
the cliffs, or redeemed from the river. The wooden
houses are huddled together, and divided by narrow
streets, disgracefully dirty. Here the emigrants land ;
and, in the absence of commodious dwellings to receive
them, it is not surprising that fever and cholera make
sad ravages. Extensive wharves, fringed by serried
ranks of stately ships, extend opposite and consider-
ably above the lower town, and are carried more than
two hundred yards into the water. The St. Law-
rence is here a mile broad, and about one hundred
and eighty feet deep ; and yet we are nearly four
hundred miles from the mouth of this majestic river.

146

A VACATION TOUR.

Tlie two towns are connected by a tortuous passage,
popularly known a3 Breakneck Stairs, only used by
foot-passengers.

The population of Quebec (65,000) has a very
French appearance. The hahitans in their ancient
costume, consisting of a fur cap, loose coat gathered
round the waist by a red or green sash, and large
boots, are seen in all the streets ; and, occasionally,
Indians are met in their more picturesque dress. I
saw one under the influence of fire-icater reeling
along, whooping, and brandishing his tomahawk.
The present race of Indians are as fond of this
beverage as their forefathers, who, according to an
old missionary chronicle, \vere in the habit, when
they obtained a portion of fire-water only sufficient to
make one of the party drunk, of drawing lots to
decide who should enjoy the extreme bliss, as they
deemed It, of becoming Intoxicated. Charlevoix,
however, states that the Huron tribes near Quebec
abjured all intoxicating liquors. Unfortunately the
extremely low price of whisky in Canada, a quart cost-
hif less than the same measure of beer in England,
leads to much intemperance among the lower classes.

I visited the Historical Society of Quebec, one of
the oldest literary institutions in Canada. It has
rendered good service by the publication (in French)

HISTORICAL SOCIETY.

147

of curious and important documents, relating to the
early history of the country. Among the MSS. are
nine original volumes of the Journals of the English
House of Commons for the year 1642. I could not
learn how they came into the Society's possession.
Kalm, the Swedish traveller, observes that in his time
(1749) there was a far greater taste for science and
literature in Canada than in the adjoining English
colonies, where it was everybor^y's sole care and em-
ployment to scrape a fortune together.

Canada happily retains her love for science and
literature, though her present rulers have as strong a
desire to make fortunes as their American fore-
fathers.

The stranger visiting Quebec during the summer
months cannot fail to be struck by the steep flight of
steps to the houses. The height of the entrance^from
the ground is the measure of the depth of snow,
which covers Lower Canada during six months of the
year. When the earth has received its winter mantle,
the steps disappear, as the snow is then on a level
with the door-sills. The cold at Quebec is terribly
severe. Lieutenant Noble, of the Artillery, who
kept a meteorological register during the winter of
1853-4, informed me that during fifty days the
^^-mometor was below xcro ; and on one day only,

h 2

ther

I tl)

143

A VACATION lOUR.

between November 15th and April 26th, did the
mercury rise above 32°. Yet the Canadians enjoy
excellent health.

In my wanderings I came upon some excavations
in progress near the Esplanade, in tlie course of
which a monument had been recently discovered
bearing a Latin inscription on a copper plate, com-
memorating the success of the French arms, under
the command of the Count of Frontenac, against the
" rebellibus Novae Anglian incolis."

The dinner to which I was invited at the garrison
mess gave me an opportunity of meeting several
agreeable officers, whose spu-its ran high at the pros-
pect of returning soon to England and taking part in
the great war drama in the East. For here, as at
Montreal, all the troops, with the exception of those
absolutely necessary to garrison the citadel, had been
recalled, to the great sorrow of the fair ladies of
Quebec, who have always been celebrated for their
military enthusiasm. I was assured, however, that
the grief was not all their own, for many officers felt
the truth of the old song,

" Nous ainions la Canadienne
Pour ses beaux yeux doux ;"

for the sake of whom some were about to rxchano-e

the sword for a Canndinn f;

irm.

FALLS OF MONTMORENCL

149

Unless the tourist be sadly pressed for time, he
should not omit visiting the Falls of Montmorenci
about six miles from Quebec. They are grand and
beautiful, tumbling over a precipice of sandstone 250
feet high, remarkable for containing boulders of
enormous size, which Sir C. Lyell states are the
largest he has seen in any ancient stratified rock.

The finest view of the waterfall is obtained from
the bottom, which can be reached with some little
difiiculty. There the celebrated ice-cone is formed
from the freezing of the spray, down the steep sides
of which parties slide in winter. Xn 1829 the cone
attained a height of 126 feet. It serves as an annual
illustration of the formation of glaciers ; for it is
manifest that if the supply of frozen spray were never
interrupted by the occurrence of sumn^er, the dimen-
sions of the cone would increase. It grew to the
height of 126 feet in 1829; and if it rested on an
inclined plane, the increasing bulk would cause its
descent, and a glacier would be created.

My kind host drove me to Spencer Woud, about
three miles from Quebec, the governor's residence,
charmingly situated on the summit oi the banks
overlooking the St. Lawrence. Though only the
7th of September, the woods were dashed bv the

L 3

150

A VACATION TOUR.

gorgeous scarlet hues which fire American forests in
autumn. On our return we ascended the citadel
heights, and saw a glorious sunset pouring floods of
golden light on the varied landscape. Let not the
tourist fail to add a sunset view to his impressions of
Quebec.

I felt really sorry when the time for my departure
from this picturesque city arrived. I entered it a
stranger. Friends were around me when I left it.
So is it ever in our pilgrimage through life. Bright
spots alternate with gloom and darkness.

I had now a long journey, or voyage rather, before
me, my destination being Toronto, about 500 miles
from Quebec. In my brother's time this distance
could not have been overcome by water under two
or three weeks. Now, by the aid of swift steamers,
the voyage may be made in fifty.four hours, and
when the Great Trunk Railway is finished the time
will be further lessened. My fellow-passengers in
the saloon were not numerous, but the lower decks
swarmed with 600 emigrants, including numerous
Irish, who contrived to do credit to Quebec whisky
by getting up periodical rows during the night-
watches, which were only put an end to by a general
confiscation of shillelaghs.

It was curious to note the difference between these

ARRIVE AT TORONTO.

151

excitable Celts and the staid and sober Norwegians,
who always form a large party in the continuous
stream of emigration flowing to the West.

I conversed with several Irish emigrants, and
found, with scarcely an exception, they had crossed
the Atlantic on the recommendation and by the as-
sistance of their relations and friends. The amount
remitted to the Old World by settlers is startling.
There is every reason to believe, from the published
returns, that during the eight years ending 1852,
upwards of 600,000/. has been sent to Europe for
emigration purposes. The individual sums are also
very large, amounting in some instances to 30/.

Favoured by remarkably fine weather, the voyage
throughout was pleasant. Ontario preserved a lake-
like placidity ; and as the rising sun was crimsoning
its broad waters our steamer entered the harbour of
Toronto. In a short time we were alongside the
pier, and soon after I was a guest in Beverley House,
the elegant and hospitable abode of Sir John Robin-
son, Bart., Chief Justice of Upper Canada.

J, -I

152

A VACATION TOIK.

CHAP. VII.

TORONTO. —CATHEDRAL. — PUBLIC BUILDINGS. — SHIP-
PING.— -PROSPERITY. —WAGES PRICE OF PROVISIONS.

— FUGITIVE SLAVES. — EDUCATION. — ENVIRO ,S. — < B-

SERVATORT GEOLOGICAL FORMATION SOCIETY

LEAVE FOR LEWISTON.— LAKE STEAMER.— HIGH WaVES.

— THE NIAGARA. — SUSPENSION BRIDGE. — QUEENSTON.

FINE VIEW DRIVIO TO CLIFTON HOUSE. - VOICE

OF THE FALLS.— THE FIRST VIEW. — TABLE ROCK. —
INFLUENCE OF THE SCENE. — THE TWO CATARACTS. —
VIBRATION OF THE HOTEL. — GRANDEUR OF MORNING
MISTS. — RAPIDS. — BURNING f.PRING. — IRIS ISLAND.—
TERRAPIN TOWER.— GULLS.— EXQUISITE COLOUR OP
WATER. — RAINBOWS. — " MANCHESTER." — SPIRIT OF
THE FALLS. — TRADITION. — CATASTROPHE. — POWER OF
THE WATER. — MAID OF THE MIST. — TERMINATION
ROCK. — WATER CURTAIN. — WHIKLPOOL. — SUNRISE
EFFECT ON THE MIST -CLOUD. —LEAVE FOR BUFFALO.

— LAST VIEW OF THE FALLS. — FORT CHIPPEWA

LAKE ERIE.

Toronto is par excellence the show-city of Canada.
I had heard much of its wonderful rise and prosperity ;
but the reality far exceeded my expectations. It is
the growth of this century. In 1793 Governor
Simcoe founded the town then called Little York.
In 1813 the Americans burnt it ; and, when rebuilt,

TORONTO. — CATHEiniAL.

1.53

file name, with great good taste, was changed to
" Toronto," the original Indian appeHation, signifying
place of meeting. At that time the site was a bushy
wilderness, which might have been purchased for a
few dollars ; now the value of the assessed property
is upwards of 4,000,000/., and the population numbers
45,000.

The day I arrived, which was Sunday, I attended
divine service m the catliedral, — a vast building of
good architectural design, possessing an organ, built
at Montreal, of great power and sweetness. The
numerous congregation had a very English appear-
ance I and, indeed, but for a general use of fans, the
scene might have been in the old country.

It was apprehended that when Toronto ceased to
be the seat of Government its prosperity would suffer ;
but the contrary is the fact. -Besides the large
public buildings already erected, others are in pro-
cess of construction : busy streets are stretching their
long arms into the bush, and the wharves exhibit the
vigorous activity of a thriving maritime port. Ships
of 900 tons are built for the corn-trade, which pro-
ceed direct to Europe; and railways will shortly
connect the city with Montreal and Quebec to the
east, and with Lake Huron to the west. Lines al-

154

A VACATION TOUR.

ready extend to Lake Simcoe, and through Hamil-
ton to Detroit and Chicago.

Thus Toronto will soon enjoy the advantage of
quick and direct communication with the Atlantic
cities during the winter as well as summer seasons.
It is interesting to contrast this progress with the state
of things little more than half a century ago. Tlie
Upper Canada Gazette, under the date of Jan. 5.
1799, congratulates its readers on being able thus
early to inform them of Nelson's naval victory of the
preceding 2nd of August.

The shops in King Street, the main thoroughfare,
already upwards of two miles long, are equal to any
in the largest of our country towns, and contain an
endless variety of goods. With this plethora of pros-
perity, — for it ib worthy of mention that the mer-
chants and traders of Toronto enjoy a solvency not
generally shared by their United States' neighbours,
— property, and particularly land, has increased
enormously in value. Houses command rents as
high as are obtained in the States. The rector of
the principal parish church, who is paid by a land
endowment, a short time since worth only a few
pounds a-year, now receives 1600/, yearly. Labour
is proportionately well paid. Last autumn bricklayers
received 1 1^-. 3(/. daily, masons lOs., carpenters 8s. del,

II i

WAGES. — PRICE OF PROVISIONS.

155

tailors 6s. 3c/., shoemakers 7s. 6d., railway-labourers
66". Provisions, as might be expected, were dear, but
still not so dear as in England. Flour averaged 29s.
per bag of 196 lbs., beef 5d. to 6d. per lb., pork 4J.,
butter 8d. Labour was in great request, so much so,
that it was almost impossible to procure farm or
house servants, unless at enormous wages. During
my stay at Sir J. Robinson's, his butler gave notice
of his intention to leave him, as he had procured a
situation as messenger in a bank with lOOl. a-year
wages. Toronto is a favourite resort of fugitive
slaves, many of whom have considerable property in
and about the city.

It is pleasant to see, amidst so much vigorous acti-
vity, how large a place England holds in the memory
of the citizens of Toronto. In every street inns, with
familiar household names, meet the eye, recalling as-
sociations dear to the native of the British isles.
Pleasant, too, is it to find that the engrossing pursuits
of commerce have not blighted a taste for literature
and science.

Besides the two colleges, which bear a high cha-
racter for their system of instruction, and enjoy ninety
scholarships of 30/. annual value, there are excellent
grammar-schools and literary and scientific esta-

156

A VACATION TOUK.

blishments. Tlie observatory is celebrated for the
magnetic observations lately made under the direc-
tion of Captain Lefroy, and is now reorganised for
permanent meteorological and astronomical observ-
ations.

I was highly pleased by several drives in the neigh-
bourhood of Toronto. The country is very beautiful.
Charming villas, surrounded by well-kept gardens,
remind one continually of England. The cemetery,
wisely placed at some distance from the town, is a
most picturesque spot, happily undeformed by hideous
monuments.

Altogether it is impossible to conceive a more
vigorous or healthy Anglo-Saxon offspring than
Toronto. Its situation, climate, and soil are all
favourable ; but probably much of its sound pros-
perity is due to the circumstance of the whole pro-
vince having been settled by American royalists, who
found here a refuge and a home.

With such materials we can scarcely paint the
future of Toronto too brightly. The geological
tourist will be much interested by the very uncommon
series of ridges or terraces near Toronto. Of these
curious phenomena Sir Charles Lyell observes, —
" With the exception of the parallel roads or shelves
in Glen Roy, and some neighbouring glens of the

GKOLOGICAL FORMATION. — SOCIKTY. 157

Western Highlands in Scotland, I never saw so re-
markable an examf ' ^ of banks, terraces, and accumu-
lation of stratified gravel, sand, and clay, maintaining,
over wide areas, so perfect a horizontality, as in this
district north of Toronto."

The natural mole of sand stretching above two
miles into the lake, and forming the capacious bay, is
a singular object, being very narrow ; in some places
only half a dozen feet across. Scattered trees grc w
upon it, which at a distance have the appearance
of growing in the water. Here the Indians were in
the habit of bringing tl\eir sick during the summer
heat for the sake of the cool lake breeze ; and the
place is still a favourite resort of the citizens, who
find easy access to it hy a steam ferry.

The society of Toronto is highly intellectual. In-
deed, it would be difficult to find any town in Canada
possessing so many desirable features for a residence
as Toronto. No wonder that, with so many advan-
tages, the loyal residents refused to listen to the dark
whisperings of unprincipled demagogues, who were
desirous, for their own purposes, of severing the bonds
binding them to the British crown. Quaintly con-
structed block-houses in the vicinity of the town,
which were fortified during the rebellion, attest the
severity of the struggle; but their peaceful occupancy

158

A VACATION TOUR.

at present by farmers, and an entire absence of
military, equally attest how completely all revrl'i-
tionary feelings havo passed away. And when t ''•
remembered that Canada is entirely exempt tnrr
direct taxation, and enjoys the protection of Englai; d
for her commerce, now greatly benefited by the
Reciprocity Treaty, it is impossible to predict too
brilliant a future for her rapidly increasing popu-
lation. That Canada will always remain under the
British crown is far from probable; but it is now
equally improbable that American " sympathisers "
will win her to annexation with the States. A hiixher
and more independent destiny is reserved for her.
And should she determine to march alone, our chil-
dren may live to see in Canada, —

" all that else the years will show,

The poet-forms of stronger hours,
The vast Republics that may grow '

The Federations and the Powers ;
Titanic forces taking birth

In divers seasons, divers climes ;
For we are ancients of the earth,

And in the morning of the times."

It was difficult to break the hospitable ties which,
had I been inclined, might have bound me long to
Toronto, but my motto was, Onwards ; and bidding
my very kind friends farewell, I departed at seven in

LEAVE FOU LEWISTON.

159

seven in

tlic morning for Lewiston in the Feerlessy a large and
swift steamer elegantly fitted up, and of the same con-
struction as ocean steamers, the engines being below
tlic deck. This was significant of rough water, and
I had soon an opportunity of verifying the fact that
Ontario is not always smooth. Great cyclones had
swept over the lake during the last few days; but the
well- protected bay gave no indication of the state of
things outside. My fellow-passengers and myself
were doing justice to an excellent breakfast in the
elegant saloon, when I was somewhat surprised by the
captain observing that in all probability we should be
very ill in a few minutes. This intelligence acted as
a damper to my appetite ; but I was more discon-
certed when a sudden heave of the ship which nearly
swept the tables clean, gave evidence we had passed
the bar. Kushing up stairs I beheld the waters
rolling with white foaming waves of great magnitude.
My fate was decided. It may seem, as it decidedly
was, unromantic — Niagara being the goal ; but I
have rarely suffered more from sea-sickness than I
did during the happily brief voyage from Toronto to
Lewiston, which, although the distance is forty miles,
is accomplished in three hours. As we approached
the mouth of the Niagara river the lake became
calmer, and I was emancipated from my agony in

IfiO

A VAOATJON TOlJli.

sufficient time to enjoy tlie tranquil passage up to
Lewiston, severi miles from the lake. Here I landed,
and engaging a " ^uggy," drove over the grand
suspension bridge to Queenston, and ascended the
heights above the town, from whence I enjoyed a
fine panoramic prospect of the surrounding country
and Lake Ontario. All tourists should do this, as,
independently of the pleasure of gazing on a magni-
ficent view, it is desirable to receive a correct im-
pression of the features of the district in which that
great wonder of the world — the Falls of Niagara —
is set.

The scene towards the Falls is very remarkable,
consisting principally of a boundless expanse of table-
land covered by dense forest, through which the
river has cut a passage. Of the falls themselves,
seven miles distant, not a trace is visible ; and
the dark-blue waters of the great river flow so
smoothly at the bottom of the deep gorge, as to give
no idea of their having passed over a mighty pre-
cipice. A glance at the nature of the ravine, and
the general features of the country, cannot fail
to lead to the conclusion that the falls were once
situated at Queenston, from whence they have gra-
dually receded to their present po-ition. But when
the mind attempts to grapple with the enormous

THE FIRST VIEW.

161

snorinous

length of time involved in this change, calculated at
35,000 years, we are bewildered by the computation,
and cake refuge in the knowledge, sufficient for our
finite understanding, that with the Lord one day is
as a thousand years.

The heights of Queenston possess an historical
interest as the scene of the battle in 1812, when
General Brock fell. A substantial monument to
liis memory is now in course of erection, to
replace the pillar destroyed by some Americans
during the Canadian rebellion. Resuming my seat,
I drove along a sandy road tlirough the partially-
cleared bush, my excitement increasing as the
distance to the falls diminished. When about three
miles from them, I ordered the driver to stop; and as
soon as the carriage ceased to move, a deep booming
noise was heard, issuing from the depth of the forest.
It was the eternal voice of the falls. My impatience
increased, but it found no sympathy in my youn^
Yankee driver, who, "guessing" he had driven
hundreds of people to Clifton House, treated my
proceedings with perfect indifference. As all things
liowever, come to an end, so did the drive. At the
end of seven miles the road, liitherto level, suddenly
dipped, and I beheld immediately before me the
mighty cataracts, illuminated by brilliant sunshine.

162

A VACATION TOUR.

I-

To the question " Were you disappointed by the first
view ? " which is generally asked, I answer " No ; "
but it is right to add, I had been careful not to raise
my expectations too high. Indeed, remembering how
many persons have expressed themselves disappo'V- d
by the height of the falls appearing so insignific '.it
in proportion to their great breadth, I had dwarfed my
ideal view too much; and now, when the reahty was
before me, it exceeded my expectations. This was a
pleasing disappointment. A few yards below the
brow of the hill, and in full view of the two falls,
stands the Clifton House Hotel. Here I secured a
most comfortable bedroom, commanding the Horse-
shoe Fall, and then, with an alacrity which made the
numerous drivers surrounding the hotel aware I had
just arrived, hastened to the Table Rock. To my
surprise, beyond the mere offer of their vehicles, I
was left to pursue my way unmolested ; and I have to
add, that during my abode at the falls, I was never
annoyed in any way by guides ; nor, indeed, did I see
any persons practising the generally officious and to
the tourist distressing office of showman. I menilon
this, because I have frequently seen and hsarc^ it
asserted, that the visitor at Niagara is sorely ^Ja^aed
by guides, who start up at all points to the distraction
of his peace and enjoyment. A v>allv or rather a

INFLUENCE OF THE SCENE.

163

run— of a few minutes brouglit mo to the Table Rock;
from whence I gazed on the descending sea before me
witli feelings of awe and wonder, tempered by a
feehng of gratitude that I was permitted to look upon
a scene whose stupendous majesty is identified with
my earliest knowledge of the wonders fo the world.

Seen from the Table Rock, no disappointm >nt can
be felt. For my part, so entirely was I unprepared
for the enormous volume of water, that in tie weak-
ness of my comprehension and inability to grasp the
scene, I was unwilling to turn my aching eyes from
the glorious spectacle, apprehending it could only
endure for a season, and that the overwhelming rush
of water must speedily cease. But as I gazed with
trembling anxiety, and marked no change beyond the
masses of spray clouds, swayed by the wind across
the migl:ty sheet, which ever retai.ied its sublime
proportions, the truth began to force itself upon me,
tliat for thousands of years the waters had been
falling, by day and by night, at all times and
seasons, ever sounding, in a voi..: which once heard
can never be forgotten, the pia; o of Him who bp ^e
them flow.* Here, indeed, u.j be felt the beaucy of

* Tho alternation of seasons causes no appreciable difTe^enee

n t .e body of water passing ove. a.e falls. But a prevalence

Tvestcrly ga.es greatly -noreases the quantity; and the

M 2

'Ik* A *

164

A VACATION TOUR.

the words In our canticle, " O ye seas and floods,
bless ye the Lord, praise him and magnify him for
ever ; " and it was probably with feelings of deep awe
that the Indian of olden time, worshipping the
Great Spirit, gave the peculiarly appropriate name
0-Ni-aw-ga-rah, the Thunder of Waters, to this
matchless scene. It is indeed eloquent " as with the
voice of a great multitude — the voice of many waters
— the voice of many thunderings, saying, ' Alleluia,
for the Lord God omnipotent reigneth.' "

How long I remained spell-bound to the spot
where I had seated myself, I know not ; but a.*-
proof of the entire concentration of all senses on
scene, I was entirely ignorant of the fact that 1
had been sitting some time in a pool of water
formed by the spray.

remarkable periodical rise of the great American lakes, which
are supposed to attain a maximum height every seven years,
also influences the amount of water. According to a very
interesting paper published in the Canadian Journal, (July,
1854,) Lake^ Erie was at its minimum height in 1846; had
attained its sixth observed maximum height in 1853 ; and
was also very high in 1854. But the observations are neither
sufficiently exact nor continuous to warrant the deduction
that this extraordinary pheiiomenon, during which the level
of the lake is raised more than five feet, ci jars at regular
intervals; the sulyect of lake-disturbances being one of great
difficulty.

Hennepin's description of the falls. 165

The power of Niagara over the spectator within
its influence is extraordinary. Many instances
are on record, but none more striking than that of
Father Hennepin, vho in his book publislied in
1G98, giving an account of discoveries in America,
thus writes : " Betwixt the Lakes Ontario and Eric
there is a vast and prodigious cadence of water, which
falls down after a surprising and astonishing manner,
insomucli that tlie universe does not afford its
parallel. The river is so rapid above the descent,
that it violently hurries down the wild beasts while
endeavouring to pass it to feed on the other side ;
they not being able to withstand the force of its cur-
rent, which inevitably casts them headlong above six
hundred foot high. The waters which flill from this
horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most
hideous manner imaginable, making an outrao-eous
noise, more terrible than that of thunder. 1 could
not conceive how it came to pass that four great
lakes, the least of which is 400 leagues in compass,
should empty themselves one into another, and then
all centre and discharge themselves at this great fall,
and yet not drown good part of America,"

In another place the awe-stricken Father mentions
the stupendous height of the falls,—" over six hundred
foot," — and supposes that the loquois, who used to

M a

166

A VACATION TOUR.

pitch tLeir wigwams at tlie base for the sake of obtain-
ing the wild animals cast over the falls, left the locality
" lest they should become deaf."

The reader need scarcely be told that even in
Hennepin's time, when the falls were slightly higher
than they are now, they were far below his estimated
height, being about 170 feet; but the worthy Jesuit
will stand excused of any desire to mislead, as he
was doubtless bewildered by the astounding spectacle,
for which no description had prepared him.

And be it remembered that, while we have been
gazing on the Horseshoe Fall, we have only to turn
our head to behold another scarcely inferior to it in
grandeur. Sweeping down in a mighty sheet of
white, broken by dark lines as the waters open and
close, a large portion of the river descends on the
American side of Goat Island, over a precipice
164 feet high, which is six feet higher than the
Horseshoe Fall. The two cataracts are perfectly
distinct, and although a distant view from below
embraces both, each presents to the spectator when
near but one picture. That the other, though not
seen is at the same time heard, adds greatly to the
overwhelmino- effect of Niagara.

The Horseshoe Fall is the finer ; for while the
American cataract is grandly impressive, the graceful

GRANDEUR OF MORNING MISTS.

167

curve of the waters on the Canadian side, the broad
sapphire gems which they wear on tlieir brow, and
the everlasting halo of glory with which they are
crowned, give them the supremacy.

Day had faded into the gloom of eve, through
which the cataracts loomed mysteriously, when I
regained the hotel ; for I need scarcely say the dinner
hour had no charms for me on that day ; and after a
hurried supper I went forth again, and saw the
marvellous scene by the light of a waning moon. It
was very late when I retired to bed. The mighty
cataracts were ever before me, while their continual
roar, and the throbbing of the windows and doors
from the concussion of the air, made my night full of
wild and startling dreams.

The following morning the scene had changed.
Enormous volumes of mist rose from the falls, blot-
ting their outline and magnifying their proportions.
The temperature was only 47°, which being con-
siderfibly below that of the river, occasioned this
phenomenon. But though tlieir glory Avas thus
(I'mmed, the play of the vapours, as they boiled up

" Like foam from the roused ocean of deep hell,"

gave them a particularly awful appearance.

Hoping the mists would disperse as the day ad-

M 4

168

A VACATION TOUR.

I 1

III

vanced, I dcvotecl the morning to tlie rapids. I had
letters of introduction to Mr. Street, who occupies a
charminff residence two miles above the falls. The
private grounds extend to the river; and it is from
the banks, here about thirty feet high, that the best
views of the rapids are obtained. Sublime, indeed,
is the spectacle of the floods which, rolling down in
mighty waves, seem to gather strength for the
dreadful leap. The breadth of the Niagara is here
about three-quarters of a mile, the entire expanse
beinir iv. a state of continual violent agitation. Huge
mounds of water— smooth, transparent, and gleaming
like emeralds — bound over enormous rocks, and then
break into foam.

I visited the burning spring a little distance above
jMr. Street's house. The gas rises throun;h a stream
diverted from the river. An old man guards the
curiosity, and for a small fee lights the vapour, which
at the time of my visit burned fitfully. In the
absence of visitors, " old Jake," the name of the
cusiode, spends his time catching black basse, which,
according to his account, abound near the banks of
the river ; thouo;h how thev can live in such a tumult
of waters is perplexing.

I soon returned to the fiills, deeming all time
misspent which was devoted to anght beside. The

VIEW FROM TnE TERRAPIN TOWER. 169

strong sun liacl dispersed the mists, and tlic waters
leaped in unslirouded glory; save where the ever-
lasting cloud of vapour went up like " incense " in
the centre of the Horseshoe Cataract. The remainder
of this and nearly the whole of the four succeeding
days were devoted to the examination in detail of
this great world wonder, which grows in majesty the
longer it is contemplated. I spent an entire day on
Goat Island, happily left in its primeval state of
wildness. From this lovely isle

" full of noises —

S(Hinds that give delight, and hurt not,"

ei?dless views of the two falls are obtained. That
of the Horseshoe Cataract from the gallery of the
Terr;ipin Tower is the most imposing. Here you
look upon the long water-curve of exquisite green,
forming the lip of the fall, which in the most concave
part is said to be twenty feet thick, and down into
the abyss boiling with mist and foam. The solemn
and slow majesty of the descent of the water is very
remarkable, presenting vast green curtain-like folds,
from which burst globes of compressed air. The
prodigious quantity of mist and spray renders the
bottom invisible, and gives infinite variety to the
scene, which, when lighted by the play of innu-

-sr*^

MOW

170

A VACATION TOUR.

mcrable vivid rainbows, possesses a witching beauty
unsurpassed and unequalled.

A flock of large gulls were sporting amidst these
quivering hues, rejoicing in their power; now dashing
downwards until lost in the blinding spray, now soaring
aloft in the deep blue heavens. Amidst such sights
and sounds, it was an inexpressible relief to find the
horrible American creation of " Manchester," with
its cotton mills, does not yet destroy the magnificence
of the American cataract. The present buildings arc
far above the fall ; but it may be, that triumphing
over all difficulties — for there are none too formidab ■ )
to cLeck Yarkee enterprise — the rapids on the verge
of the descent may be made to do cotton-spinning
duty, and the fall itself be diverted into innumerable
mill-dams. Already numerous daring projects are
contemplated to " use up the almighty water privi-
lege " of Niagara, which is stated to exceed in power
the entire steam force employed to drive machinery
in Great Britain ; but as half the falls belong to
England, it is to be hoped the Horseshoe Cataract
is not included in the scheme. 1 could not help
wishing that the influence which will, I trust, prevent
any attempt to perpetrate sucii barbarity, would
sweep away the frippery curiosity-shops and museums
now deforming; the Canadian side of the river.

TRADITION.— CATASTKOPHE.

171

Far different was the vicinity of Niagara at the
time of my brotlier's visit. Dense woods then oc-
cupied the banks. Not a house was near ; and on
one occasion the provisions wliich his party had
concealed were stok^n by tlie Indians, wlio resided
at Niagara for tlie sake of feeding on the wihl
animals ^^ .ich were precipitated over the falls.

The Indians have a tradition that the spij-it of
Niagara exacts an annual sacrifice of two human
victims; and it is a curious fact, that since the
white man has known the falls, the average number
has exceeded two.

I was shown the scene of the last catastrophe, just
above the American fall. It is a small ror>ky islet
to which an unfortunate man clung with terrible
tenacity for three days. He had been drawn into
tlie rapids, and was on the point of being swept over
the falls, when his course was arrested by the little
island. Far better would it have been for him had
he not met wit a this obstruction; for his agony
during those three long days and nights was fearful.
All attempts to save him were abortive ; and at the
close of the third day, being unable to cling longer to
the rocks, he was carried over the cataract. An
American daguerreotypist reaped a rich harvest by
taking impressions of the poor fellow during his agony.

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

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(716) 872-4503

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172

A VACATION TOUR.

The terrific power of the rapids was made very
apparent by a circumstance wliich happened a short
time previous to my visit. A large barge, used for
navigating Lake Erie, had, by some miscalculation or
mismanagement, been allowed to come within the
influence of the current of the Niagara, about six
miles above the talis. Powerful horses were attached
to the towing line; but as their strength was unequal
to resist the rapids, the people on board, four in
number, wisely fastened themselves to the rope, and,
severing it, allowed the barge to drift down while
they were dragged on shore. Contrary to all
expectation the ship did not go over the falls,
but was stranded on a ledge of rocks about loO
yards above Goat Island. Tiicre I saw her, and I
certainly imagined it would be easy to reach her,
for the water did not seem very rapid or deep;
but, although the cargo presented great tempt-
ation to enterprising voyageurs accustomed to navi-
gate canoes in tumultuous waters, one man alone
was sufficiently bold to make an attempt to secure
them: this was a person named llobinson, better
known as the « Champion of the Rapids."

Launching his canoe a considerable distance above
Goat Island, he steered for the barge, and was suc-
cessful in reaching it ; but to the surprise of the

EXCITING ADVENTURE.

173

spectators, who were anxiously watching his proceed-
ings, he declared he did not think it possible he could
regain the shore. The greatest excitement prevailed.
Innumerable suggestions were proffered: at length,
Robinson found his only chance of escape was to em-
bark in his canoe, and drifting down the rapids, endea-
vour to reach a rocky islet within a few yards of Goat
Island, and fearfully contiguous to the edge of the Great
Fall. Failing this, certain destruction was inevitable.
It was a moment of terrible suspense. Battling with
the fierce rapids, amidst which the tiny canoe was a
speck, Robinson struggled with the energy of
despair ; and watching his opportunity, succeeded by
an almost superhuman effort in bringing his canoe
sufficiently near the rock to permit him to spring
upon it. Here he was safe, being drawn to shore by
ropes, but his canoe was of course speedily preci-
pitated over the cataract. A poor dog, left in
the barge, had been seen for several days on the
deck, howling piteously ; but on the morning of
Robinson's venture it was gone.

The extremely insecure state of the banks above
and below both falls, have led to several deplorable
accidents. While I sat sketching at the base of the
Horse-shoe Fall near Biddle Stairs, large fragments
of rock and gravel fell near me, from the summit of

174

A VACATION TOUR.

the cliffs bounding Goat Island, affording practical
demonstration of the erosive process in constant
operation. Table Rock, as is well known, is not as
broad as it was. Huge debris at the base show
how powerfully the water acts upon the . ft shale
formation underlying the limestone of which the
upper part of the precipice is composed. The last
great fall occurred in June^ 1850; the noise occa-
sioned by the crash was heard at the distance of
three miles, and is said to have shaken the country
like an earthquake.

I accompanied parties on two occasions in the
Maid of the Mist, a tiny steamboat, strongly built,
and provided with two engines of 100 horse power,
which steams gallantly along the base of the
American fall into the mist of the Great Fall,
careering over waves of oceanic proportions, until the
vast sheet of water seems on the point of whelming
the little ship. Oil-skin dresses are provided for this
excursion, without which the passengers would be
drenched ; for the explorer of Niagara will soon find,
if he be at all adventurous, that a little spray, coming
as it does in fitful gusts, goes a long way. I went
into the Cave of the Winds, under the Crescent Fall,
where I saw the rare and beautiful phenomena of
concentric circular rainbows ; and, taking advantage

TERMINATION ROCK. —WATER-CURTAIN. 175

of brilliant sunshine, I performed the crowning feat of
passing within the veil of Niagara's temple, or, in
other words, going under the great cataract, as far
as Termination Rock, 240 feet from the entrance.
This requires firm nerves. A gentleman who ac-
companied me gave in when about half way. On my
return from the goal, I found him bending over a
rock, to which he was clinging tenaciously, appre-
hending, in the bewildered state of his senses, that
the masses of water which came tumbling down
would sweep him into the gulf beneatli. But the
hurricane, raging as it does with a violence which
almost taV-3 the breath away, has a tendency to
impel one against the wall of rock behind the sheet of
water ; and if the instructions of the guide, who is a
stout negro, be followed, and his hand held, no
danger attends the adventure; while the extra-
ordinary spectacle, accompanied by a chorus of
thunder, and the throbbing of the rocks beneath
the feet, repay the toil and fatigue. I need scarcely
say that the visitor has to undress and put on a
water-proof suit before taking his colossal shower
bath.

The effect of the huge water-curtain, and of the
sun seen through it, is very singular. The tourist
should select a day when the sun is shining for the

176

A VACATION TOUR.

■

expedition, and if accompanied by a friend, two
guides should be taken.

I did not omit visiting the whirlpool, which bears
on its writhing waters fragments of torn timber pre-
cipitated over the falls; nor the suspension bridge, for
the sake of the magnificent view which it affords of the
Niagara, lowing solemnly through the gorge backed
by the two falls.

Here the water is of a dark -blue colour flecked by
foam. Fabulous statements are made respecting the
depth of the river at this place; but 1 have the
authority of a scientific friend, who sounded it, fur
saying it does not exceed 120 feet. This, however,
is a great body of water. It is intended to carry a
branch of the railway from Albany to Buffalo over
this bridge, hanging the rails to chains above the
present roadway for carriages and foot-passengers.
This is a bold scheme, worthy of American enterprise ;
but fears are entertained for the safety of this pro-
posed aerial rcilvvp^'. Mr. Stephenson says, " Great
skill has been sliusvn in designing means for neu-
tralising the tendency to flexibility; but I am of
opinion that no system of trussing applicable to a
platform suspended from chains will prove either
desirable or eflicient, unless it be carried to such an
extent as to approach ir, dimensions a tube itself fit

SUNRISE effj:ct on the mist-cloud. i?7

for the passage of railway trains." When this link
is completed, Canada West will be brought into
direct railway communication with New York. The
electric telegraph already exists at Niagara. The
wires are brought into Clifton House, and the tourist,
without leaving his hotel, may flash a message to the
Atlantic cities or New Orleans.

On the last morning of my sojourn at the falls,
anxious to see as much of them as possible, I rose
before the sun. On looking out, the landscape was
still dim, but towering high above the Great Fall
rose the column of mist, crested by a roseate hue.
The effect was enchanting. Not a cloud obscured
the heavens ; and so tranquil was the air, that the
vapour-pillar seemed like a gigantic shaft of white
marble surmounted by a rose-coloured capital. A
friend, whom I called to witness the beautiful spec-
tacle, agreed with me that the column was at least
800 feet high. I no longer doubted that a faint cloud
to which my attention had been drawn when standing
on the roof of the Court House at Toronto, was
the mist over Niagara. The distance is fifty miles,
but it has been seen farther oii.

As the sun ascended, the pillar became more rose-
hued : presently the crest of the falls caught the

178

A VACATION TOUR.

glowing tints, and the rushing waters were a sheet of
burnished gold.

The time had now arrived for bidding adieu to
Niagara ; but —

" There can be no adieu to scenes Uke thine ; "

for as I pen these lines, the mighty cataracts appear
rolling down their everlasting waters, and I hear the
thunder of their voice. This mental daguerreotyping
is a glorious privilege of travel. But to carry away
lasting imi)ressions of the falls, several days should
be devoted to them. I cannot suppose the tourist
will be contented by a visit of a few hours, which,
according to my experience, seems to satisfy Ame-
ricans, who arrive at night and depart the following
afternoon ; and I strongly recommend him to make
his plans harmonise, if possible, with a residence of a
week. He will find the falls increase in sublimity
and vastness the longer they are contemplated.
Their mysterious grandeur, veiled as it is in mist,
cannot be comprehended in a day. Let me further
advise him to take up his quarters at the Clifton
House, which has the great advantage of being
within sight of both cataracts. There is constant
communication by means of ferry-boats with the

LAST VIEW OF THE FALLS.

179

American side, to the summit of which the indolent
tourist can be conveyed by an inclined railway, in
cars worked by water-power derived from the fall.
The American hotels are noisy, and possess no views
beyond a glimpse of the rapids, seen only from a few
of the back windows.

A brisk trade in Indian ornaments and curiosities
is carried on at Niagara. Daguerreotypes of the
American fall are in great request; the proper thino-,
according to Yankee notions, being for the purchaser
to stand prominently in the foreground while the
impression is taken. Until I visited Niagara, I was
at a loss to understand why all daguerreotype views
should generally represent the American fall ; but
the ground is so violently agitated on the Canadian
side as to render the operation of the camera extremely
unsatisfactory, -at least all the results I saw were
very poor. Recent improvements in photography
will, however, I .ave no doubt, give better effects.

My destination was Chicago, to which I had the
choice of two routes, one by rail to Detroit, the other
by Lake Erie. I chose the latter. Leaving Clifton
House in the afternoon I proceeded by rail to Chip,
pewa, six miles from Niagara. The line passes
withm a few yards of the Great Fall ; so my last view
of the cataracts was from the window of a railway

N 2

180

A VACATION TOUR.

carriage. At Chippewa I found a steamer, in whicli
I ascended the Niagara to Buffalo. We passed
Navy and Grand Island, the former celebrated as the
head-quarters of the leaders of the Canadian insur-
rection ; the latter, from an attempt made by a mad-
brained individual named Major Noah to gatlier
within its precincts the lost tribes of Israel.

Shortly before entering Lake Erie we saw nu-
merous ships which had passed through the Welland
Canal, and were now spreading their sails to navigate
the ocean-like lake.

The resemblance to the sea was further increased
when we arrived at Buffalo, where the harbour
presented all the activity of a thriving maritime
city.

!l!

181

CHAP. yiif.

BUFFALO. -GIGANTIC STEAM! OAT.- BRIDAL CHAMBERS —

LAKE ERIE WOODED ISLANDS. — WATER-SNAKES —

DETROIT. — NEW FRANCE. — VINEYARDS. — DAWN —
NEW BUFFALO. — LAKE MICHIGAN. — CHICAGO —ITS
RAPID GROWTH. - VALUE OF LAND, - COMMERCE. -
PRAIRIES.— FUGITIVE SLAVES. -POPULAR EXCITEMENT
EMIGRANTS. - CINCINNATL — TOBACCO-CHET^ WG. _ BUR-

N-T HOUSE.— FORMER HOTELS RAPID CHANGES —

COMMERCIAL STATISTICS. — LAMD SETTLEMENTS FUR-

NITURE FACTORIES.-RAILWAYS.-TOUR OF THE GLOBE.
—GERMANS.— PORCINE POPULATION.— THEIR HABITS AND
PECULIARITIES. — PORK CROP. — ACREAGE OF PIGS —

PORKOPOLIS. — OBSERVATORY. — CATAWBA GRAPES

CHAMPAGNE MANUFACTORY. — MR. L0N6W0RTH —
HIRAM POWERS. — HIS FIRST WORK. - NATIONAL THE-
ATRE.— FIRE.— STEAM FIRE-ENGINE.— POLICE COURT —
«' KNOW-NOTHINGS."— COINAGE. — COUNTERFEIT NOTES

—KENTUCKY.— SPRING GROVE CEMETERY NARROW

ESCAPE THUNDERSTORM. — LEAVE CINCINNATI.

As the steamer to Detroit was advertised to depart at
nine p. m., I had ample time to explore Buffalo, one of
tlie most remarkable examples of the rapid growth of
American cities. Founded in 1801, destroyed by
fire in 1813, it now contains a population of above
60,000; and official returns show that its commerce,

N 3

182

A VACATION TOUR.

valued in 1850 at 67,000,000 dollars, had increased
in 1851 to 76,000,000 dollars. This extraordinary
prosperity is due principally to its being the great
natural gateway, between the marts of the East and
the producing regions of the West, for the passage of
the lake commerce. The movement on the St. Law-
rence and Welland Canals communicating with Lake
Erie, increased 331 per cent, between 1848 and
1853. The tonnage of the port was composed in
1851 of 107 steamers, and 607 sailing vessels. It is a
significant fact, that out of nearly 7000 tons of ships
building at Buffalo, in January 1852, there was but
one sailing vessel, the remainder consisting of
steamers.

The principal business streets contain an endless
variety of stores full of pedlars' goods and *' Yai .ee
notions." I walked into the Clarendon Hotel, where I
supped in the company of about three hundred persons,
the majority of whom boarded in the house. The ladies
were very gaily dressed, prismatic colours being
greatly in vogue. If, thought I, these are the
Buffalo girls to whom the song applies, no wonder
there should be a desire to see them " out,"

Much as I had been astonished by the steamboats
on the St. Lawrence, they sink into insignificance
compared with those plying between Buffalo and

GIGANTIC bTEAMBOAT.

inr

Detroit. Indeed, my determination in favour of the
]t»ke route resulted principally from mj desire to make
a trip in one of these mammoth ships. There are
four on the station, similar in size and appointments.
That in which I voyaged was The Western World:
an official docume»-.t suspended in the cabin, "By
order of Congress," set forth that this ship is 2300
tons burthen, 364 feet long, has engines of 1000
horse power, which can be worked up to 1500 horse,
and is provided with 116 state rooms, il3 permanent
borths, and las additional sleeping accommodation for
1000 passengers. She has three boilers, each 37
feet in length, ordinarily subjected to a pressure
of 56 lbs to the square inch. The officers of the ship
are forbidden by law to touch the safety-vjilve. The
diameter of the paddle-wheels is 64 feet ; tliere are
6 life-boats, 75 buckets, 1000 life-preservers, and
700 feet of hose in constant readiness. The saloons
are fitted up in a style of extraordinary magnifi-
cence, with rich carpets, luxurious sofas, lounging
chairs and settees covered with costly velvet, pianos,
marble tables., and enormous mirrors. At one end
there is a large dome of painted glass, from which
elegant chandeliers are suspended. The engines? are
visible from the saloon, being enclosed by plate-glass.

H 4

184

A VACATION TOUR.

1 1

Tlie portions exposed to view are highly polished and
adorned by artificial flowers.

The doors of the state-rooms are elegantly painted,
and provided with cut glass handles. These apart-
ments are equally handsomely fitted up. Two,
called bridal-chambers, are decorated in a style of
regal splendour; as they were not occupied, the
stewardess permitted me to see them. The beds are
covered with white satin, trimmed with gold lace ;
painted Cupids are suspended from the ceiling ; the
toilet furniture is of the finest china ; hot and cold
water are laid on, and flow by pressing ivory knobs ;
the chairs and sofas are covered with the richest
velvet ; the carpets are of the softest pile ; and the
walls display beautiful floral designs. Everythino-
was new and fresh, for the ship had only been
recently launched, and the apartments had never
been occupied. The charge for each is five dollars.
Remembering the stormy character which Lake Erie
bears, it is frightful to contemplate the destruction
which would in all probability ensue, if one of these
splendid and gaudy chambers were occupied on a
rough night by a loving but suffering couple; for, I was
assured by the stewardess, that ladies are frequently
very ill during the voyage to Detroit. Fortunately,
I have no experience of this lake in an angry mood.

ARRANGEMENTS ON BOARD.

18.5

We steamed out of the harbour at nine o'clock ;
and, but for a slight tremulous motion, and the
noise of the huge paddle-wheels striking the water,
it would have been easy to have imagined the saloon
in which we were seated belonging to a large hotel.
Indeed, these huge steamers are hotels on a vast
scale, comprising, not only the accommodation I have
mentioned, but also commodious bar and smoking
rooms; and barbers' shops, where black barbers
perform tonsorial operations from morning to night.
We numbered about six hundred cabin passengers,
and five hundred emigrants, who occupied the lower
deck ; so great, however, was the space, no crowding
or inconvenience was felt; and the meals were
served with the regularity and order of a first-class
liotel. It was an extraordinary sight to see the
breakfast-tables covered with a profusion of dishes,
to which all the passengers did ample justice. My
companions were principally commercial men. A
few were curious to know my calling and pursuits ;
when satisfied, they volunteered to enlighten me
respecting their own occupations; one gentleman
was even so obliging as to favour me with his card,
notifying that the blasting gunpowder he was com-
missioned to sell was the best in the world.
With a few exceptions, the male passengers were

186

A VACATION TOUR.

extremely well behaved ; and it is worthy of remark
that the Bibles, 6f which there were many copies on
board, were in constant use throughout the voyage.
On looking out in the morning, water only was in
sight, dotted here and tliere by ships, some of which
were of large size. About noon, we were running up
Detroit River, the shores of which, like those of Lake
Erie, are exceedingly tame. The wooded islands at
the head of the lake tend to relieve the monotony of
the scene. These are fringed by beds of large lilies,
a favourite basking-place for the water-snakes : alluded
to by Moore, —

" O'er the bed of Erie's lake
Slumbers many a water-snake,
Basking in the web of leaves
Which the weeping lily weaves."

Detroit, originally a little French village of
wooden-houses, is now a flourishing city possessinj^
large public buildings, huge stores and hotels, and
long quays lined with shipping. It is doubtless
greatly indebted to position for its prosperity ; but an
Englishman may reflect with some pride that this
is also in some measure due to the Anglo-Saxon cha-
racter.* " Les Francois ne savent pas coloniser,"

* The energy of the Anglo-Saxon race made a great im-
pression on the Indians in the early days of colonisation. On

DAWN.

187

was said by a wise politician ; but we must not forget
that New France was attempted to be colonised by a
government ; New England by a people. Charlevoix
tells us, that " Cartier eut beau vanter le pays qu'il
avoit decouvert; on insista qu'il ne seroit jamais
d'aucune utilite a la France, car il n'y avait aucune
apparence de mines." A hundred years later,
the fisheries alone were found sufficient to enrich
France. At Detroit the American and British flags
wave in close proximity, as the opposite side of the
river is British grounds The small town of Windsor
on the English bank of the river is about half a mile
from Detroit. This is the ardently desired goal of
fugitive slaves, who ha-e arrived in such vast
numbers as to have founded a settlement called
Dawn, a short distance from the river, where I
was told they are thriving. The climate here is
very mild, as proof of which vines grow on the
islands in the lake. I found the heat so great in
comparison to what it had been at Niagara, that I
was glad to be able to travel by night to Chicago. I
left Detroit at nine o'clock by the Michigan Railway,

one occasion, being exasperated by acts of oppression, they
buried some Englislimen, saying, "You English, since you
came here, you have grown considerably above ground; let us
now see how you will grow under."

188

A VACATION TOUR.

which traverses the peninsula between Lakes Huron
and Michigan to New Buffalo, where I arrived
at six in the morning, and from thence crossed
the lake to Chicago, which occupied two hours. This
was a most fatiguing journey ; and I was extremely
glad to come to rest in the comfortable hotel.

Independently of the interest in contemplating the
rapid spread of civilisation in the western states,
nowhere more apparent than in Illinois, it is worth
while going there for the purpose of seeing the
prairies near Cliicago ; at least I thought so, for
although they are not the prairies of the far west,
where the herbage rolls in long waves under the
passing winds, they yet are prairies covered by wiry
grass and a profusion of wild flowers. Here and
there clumps of scrubby trees appear like islands on
the plain ; but excepting these, there is nothing to
arrest the eye, which takes exceeding delight in
boundless vision after a long confinement in dense
forests. It expands the mind too, to know that one
may walk without a check westward across Illinois,
which consists principally of prairie land. The
summer had been so dry and hot that the surface was
more than usually parched. Some miles to the west
it had taken fire, and bui .t over a large area. In

CHICAGO. — ITS RAPID GROWTH. 189

the course of my ramble I started some prairie-hens,
which afford excellent shooting.

The history of Chicago is startling. In 1829, when
it was laid out, a solitary log-tavern sufficed to
supply the wants of the scanty population. Wolves
out-numbered the white men, and the wigwam of
the painted savage dotted the prairie on every side.
In 1840, the population was 4479; in 1854, 75,000!
Tiie oldest inhabitant horn in the town is a lady,
who according to our authority was only twenty-
two years old in 1853. Spacious stores, fine
ecclesiastical establishments, ~ including a Swedish
church, to which Jenny Lind contributed largely
when she visited Chicago, - large public buildings,
and fine houses now meet the eye on all sides. All is
new, excepting a block-house built thirty-eight years
ago when the country was peopled by savage°Indians,
prior to the laying out of the town. The inhabitants
of Chicago are proud of this relic of antiquity. In a
journal advocating its preservation it is urged : '* Let
it be surrounded by a neat iron fence thlt we may
be able to illustrate to our children the nature of the
defences which the early settlers of Chicago were
obliged to adopt. Let the giant arm of modern
improvement sweep away, if necessary, every other
vestige of Fort Dearborn ; but let the shrill scream

190

A VACATION TOUR.

of the locomotive, as it brings up its long train of
cars from the Gulf of Mexico, or rests from its
labours after the mighty race of a thousand miles from
the Atlantic seaboard, age after age echo around this
humble but significant monument of the past."

The increase in the value of land has kept pace
with the growth of the town. In 1810 the entire
township might have been purchased for 500 dollars;
now it is worth many millions. A New York clerk
who came here to improve his fortune last year with
4000 dollars, laid it out upon land, which he sold, six
weeks after purcliasing it, for forty thousand.

The commercial statistics are equally remarkable.
In 1847 the imports were valued at 2,640,000 dollars;
in 1851 they had risen to 24,500,000. During that
year 21,806 head of cattle were slaughtered for Ame-
rican and English markets. In 1853, 14,000,000
bushels of grain, 1,086,944 lbs. of wool, 3,042,000 lbs.
of lard, and various other commodities on an equally
extensive scale were exported. In 1854 the exports
of grain and flour exceeded those from New
York. The shipping arrivals in 1851 comprised
845 steamers, 1182 schooners, 239 brigs, and 13
barques. On the 13th September 1854, 35 ships
entered, and 2 1 cleared from the port. The failure of
the wheat-crop in Northern Illinois during past years

CURIOUS ADVEaTISEMEKTS. 191

has turned the attention of farmers to grazing and wool-
grownig, for which the prairie-lands are admirably
adapted; and. as these are almost boundless, enor-
mous produce may be confidently expected. The
newspapers teem with advertisements illustrative of
the " Go.aheadism " of this busy and thriving com-
munity. Excessive speed in every act seems to be
the ruhng passion. Under the head " Rapid Mar-
riages," I observed several advertisements setting
forth that parties were very desirous of " a rapid
union with, &c.'' Nor, as . Ul be seen by the fol-
lowing extract, does bereavement cause the hymeneal
torch to remain long extinguished :_" Married on
the 10th July Mr. Patrick Welch to Miss Sarah E
Davis. Died July 24. Mr. Patrick Welch. xMarried
August 12. Mr. Thomas Collins to Sarah E. Davis
relict of the late Mr. Patrick Welch.

It appears, however, that some ladies are too im-
patient to wait for a natural release from their
bondage to enable them to marry „gaii,, for divorces
are easily obtained; and here is an advertisement
.naicative of another mode of severing the nuptial
tie: --."Foe Sale. A good husband, warranted
sound and kind in any kind of harness, especially the
matrimonial. He is of handsome figure and action,
stands to the cradle without tying, and can trot his

192

A VACATION TOUE.

babies an hour easily. He is also a smart traveller,
and in every respect a good family beast. The
present owner being about to emigrate to California,
the above property will be sold without delay." This
is of course a jeu (Tesprit, but is not the less significant
on thfit account.

At the time of my visit, Chicago had scarcely
subsided from an uproar arising from a fugitive slave
case. The slave belonged to a person in St. Louis, who
despatched three men armed to the teeth to recover
him. They waited until the inhabitants had gone
to church, and, watching their opportunity, made a
desperate attempt to seize the negro. Being a powerful
man, he broke away, and while in the act of running
was shot in the arm. The slave-catchers were ar-
rested, and bound over in the sum of eight hundred
dollars, to take their trial for the crime of assault and
battery, with intent to commit murder. The excite-
ment was intense, and further increased by an order
being made to deliver the slave to his master, while
the slave-hunters escaped with a nominal fine. The
judges acted in conformity with the law, but the
people took a very different view of the case, and, as
at Boston, made a strong demonstration against
slavery.

The press kept up the excitement by violent

POPULAR EXCITEMENT. I93

articles denouncing slavery, and particularly the
Fugitive Slave Law. These called forth rejoinders
from journals in favour of slavery, couched, if
possible, in more scurrilous language. Here, as an
example, is a letter addressed to the editor of the
Chicago Tnbune, which is a strong anti-slavery
organ. The document was published in a Kentucky
paper : —

" Sir,

' Frankfort, Kentucky,

" September rth, 1854.

The term ' Dear Sir,' is not in my vocabulary for
one of your degraded stamp. Your hellish course of late
m encouraging the abduction of slaves from their masters'
and your general disorganising course, will wrap the flames'
of the infernal regions around your cowardly craven form
with tenfold fiendish heat, when, in the course of J>Zl
aence you shall take passage upon the under-ground rail-
road to his Satanic Mnjesty the Devil. You take great
dehght in obeying the mandates of the devil hei^e on
earth, in exulting over the success of a negro-stealer, in
he publication of inflammatory hand-bills that smell of
hell Itself. But be assured that a day of rich reward
^s near at hand, when all the furies in maddened black-
ness shall fan the already intolerable flames of Tartarus
jnto tenfold their usual heat around that body tinat now
has enough villany attached thereto to sink it through
he slight crust that is represented to divide the eanh
irom the country where negro abductors go. But if in

194

A VACATION TOUR.

the meantime you should like to smell a little of that
country before finally removing there, just cross the
Mason and Dixon line, or, in other words, come to Ken-
tucky, and we will promise you a warm reception, a good
berth, and a free ticket. If your health should require it,
after the summer months are over, pay our or any southern
State a visit, and let it be known that you are the
villanous editor of the Chicago Tribune, and it won't
cost much to put you through on the over-ground rail-
road^ preparatory to a final, safe, and sure ride on the
under-ground railroad.

" With high appreciation for your capacity in executing
the devil's designs, and your unscrupulous activity therein,
I am not, nor ever will be, your obedient servant,

<* LYNCH LAW."

This it must be confessed is hot writing. It does not,
however, appear to have discomposed the editor of
the Tribune, who thus comments on the letter : —

«'We will bet our hat that the writer of the above
epistle is a blood (or bloody') relation of Mat Ward.
However, we are going to Kentucky, and several other
Slave States, this winter, as is our custom to do, and we
will be prepared to receive our friend at Frankfort with
open arms. We do not entertain any fears of the reccp*
tion which we might meet with in Kentucky or any other
southern State. Our correspondent, Lynch Law, may be,
and doubtless is, a blackguard ; but the generality of the
people of Kentucky and of Frankfort are gentlemen"

EMIGRANTS.

195

It is not difficult to foresee that, with sucli fierce
partisanship, the slave question is destined to be a
source of infinite trouble aH intestine warfare
between the Northern and Southern States. There
are a great many free blacks in Chicago, who obtain
h.gli wages in the stores and hotels. Emigrants from
various European countries resort to the city in vast
"umbers, attracted by the flourishing accounts-not
exaggerated-of plans matured, labours performed
victories achieved, and hopes in full fruition. Witli
sucli prospects before him, the emigrant

" Leaves his home with a bounding hearf,
For the world is all before him ;
And he scarcely feels it a pain to part,
Such sun-bright hopes come o'er him."

The prosperity of Chicago is the more remarkable
as It IS not happily situated, being built almost on a
level with the lake, from the waters of which the
houses are only divided by piles. The drainage is
very imperfect, and the odour arising from decayed
matter is extremely oppressive during the summer
^eats. Not inappropriately was the city named
Chicago, which signifies Skunk^s Hole; the skunk
being an anim-^ bearing an unenviable notorietv for
Its power .. uischarging a foul-smelling fluid.

I was pleased to find, amidst the feverish bustle of

o 2

196

A VACATION TOUR.

commerce, the claims of education and literature are
not overlooked. Numerous institutions for these
objects exist, and others on a larger scale are in
course of erection.

I spent an evening in some gardens kept by a
German about two miles from the town, where the
inhabitants resort for recreation. They comprise
about five acres of prairie-land, which seems pecu-
liarly well adapted to the growth of English flowers.
It was very pleasant to look upon old favourites
4000 miles from home. Here I saw a sunset of
wondrous glory ;

" The clouds hung \i\ the purple skie?,
At anchor like great argosies ;"

and as the sun went down among them they as-
sumed the most brilliant colours, until all hues
blended in vast caverns of fire which lighted up the
West.

Fatiguing as was my journey to Chicago, that to
Cincinnati, a distance of 300 miles, was much more
distressing. The railway is or ivas execrable, and
what between the tcrr'lyle jolting, frequently render-
ing it necessar / Iv. Iioi 1 on, the great heat, and the
tobacco-chewing with its sickening results, I had a
sorry time of it. The passengers were ai rough as
the road. The usual courteous prefix of f/entle was

BURNET HOUSE.

197

iterature are
IS for these
scale are in

I kept by a
1, where the
By comprise
seems pecu-
jlish flowers,
d favourites
a sunset of

e?,

■m tliey as-
til all hues
>htecl up the

ago, that to
much more
crable, and
ntly render-
sat, and the
its, I had a
li rough as
' gentle was

dropped, and I was addressed as " man." Those
were signs that the " aristocracy of soul," as a
lady described it, which reigns at Boston has not yet
reached the Western States. Tlie rude familiarity,
had it not been attended by perpetual expectorations
which flooded the floor of the cars, would have been
amusing.

The dinner in the middle of the day was a won-
d.-rful scramble, and though fully half-an- hour was
allowed for the meal, it was bolted in five minutes.
There was just sufiicient light to see the vines
clothing the picturesque hills, as, in the evening, we
drew near Cincinnati. We passed through vast
subu.bs composed of wooden houses; and after a
long drive in a wonderful omnibus calculated to
contain any number of people, I was put down at
tiie Burnet House, one of the largest and best hotels
111 the States, where I shpt off my fatigue, though
the heat, and angry hum of baflled musquitoes, happily
outside the net, were sad enemies to sound slumber.

Endeavouring the following morning to find my
way to the gentlemen's saloon.-somewhat bewildered
by numerous long galleries, and the existence of four
staircases all alike,^I thought of that period in the
history of Cincinnati, no farther back than 1817,
when, according to a traveller, the tavern most re-

O 3

WMHtiil

198

A VACATION TOUR.

Sorted to possessed only one sleeping-room, — a large
apartment, furnished v.Ith several shake-downs, ,ii
which this notice was suspended : — "No gentleman
shall take the saddle, bridle, or harness of another
gentleman without his consent." — Journeying in
those days was effected on horseback (a mode of
locomotion still practised in those parts of Ohio where
railways do not exist), and it was customary to use
the saddle as a pillow, which explains the device
contained in the notice. Now huge hotels replete
with every luxury abound, — the Burnet House
makes up above 1000 beds, and there is another
establishment in the city nearly as large.

Two dinners are provided daily at the Burnet
House, served in different saloons. The guests at
each repast averaged 300 persons. Printed bills
of fare, including a great variety of entremets and
dishes for both tables, are prepared every day.* The

* The consumption of provisions at these huge hotels is
amazing. On the morning after my arrival at Cincinnati, I
was roused from my slumber at dawn by the convulsive-liko
cackling of fowl : the noise continued so long (above two
hours), that I got up and looked out of my window com-
manding the back-yard. Immediately beneath were two long
carts covered by netting, from beneath which a man dex-
terously drew unfortunate fowls by means of a stick pi-ovided
with a hook. Seizing each fowl, he swung it swiftly round by
the head, which he wrenched off, and dropped the body into a

RAPID CHANGES.

199

taciturnity at tliesi; large gatherings is remarkable.
But here, as well as elsewhere in the States, people
sit clown to eat and not to talk.

Some Americans affirm that America does not
commence until the Alleghanies are crossed, all to
the east of that chain of mountains being old and
worn-out, while the Western States are full of bustle
and prosperity. Making due allowance for this
burst of western patriotism, the couplet

" The Eastern States be full of men,
The Western full of woods, Sir."

no longer holds good, for the forests are fast disap-
pearing, and cities, towns, and villages are as quickly
springing up. The rapidity of these changes is
marvellous. But little more than half a century
ago there was not a single Anglo-American settle-
ment in Ohio, — now the population amounts to up-
wards of 2,000,000, nearly all of whom are Anglo-
Saxons.* Cincinnati in 1800 was a hamlet of 750

large cask, which was nearly full of the decapitated birds. The
operation, which I was informed was repeated every mornin-
on the same extensive scale, continued until the vessel was full;
but I cannot vouch for the amount of murder on other days,
as I changed my quarters to a front room after breakfast.

" Official returns show, that during the year ending June 30,
1854, there were 23,238,313 acres of land sold, located by land

O 4

200

A VACATION TOUR.

inhabitants; by the last census, in I80O, it contained
115,435 persons. Enjoying the advantage of a
beautiful situation on a series of terraces on the rUAit
bank of the Ohio, it is fairly entitled from its locali /
and prosperity to be called the *• Queen of the
West." In the year ending August 31. 1854, there
were 3887 steamboat arrivals; the value of the
imports during the same period was 66,000,000
dollars, and that of the exports 46,000,000, being an
increase over the preceding year of nearly 50 per
cent. A walk through the business part of the city
is sufficient to show that these figures are not
mythical. The stores occupy a vast frontage on the
river, and extend back over a large area,— each a hive
of industry. They are filled with almost every con-
ceivable description of goods, for Cincinnati is at
present the great emporium for supplying the count-
less thousands of emigrants settling in the West.
Here domestic furniture is manufiictured to an extent
that would be almost incredible were we not made
aware that the demand extends as far west as
California. I visited establishments where, by the

warrants, granted for improvements, &c., being an increase of
5,600,000 over the precedin' year. But large as are these
figures, they do not much aflect the entire quantity of land
still available, amounting to 1367 millions of acres.

FURNITURE FACTORIES. £01

aid of ingenious machinery, 500 dozen chairs were
made weekly; the price of the plainest being five-
and-a-half dollars, or 1/. 3.. ^d. per dozen. Other
factories are devoted to the manufacture of bedsteads
babj-rockers, chests of drawers, churns, cupboards,'
&c., which are produced in the same abundance.
Mountains of these domestic articles were piled up on
the quays, ready to be shipped as soon as the Ohio
was sufficiently high to permit the steamers to run.

The workmen in these factories are paid by the
piece, and, by constant application to one particular
branch of labour, acquire such dexterity as to be able
to earn in many instances twelve dollars a-week.
Boys employed to paint and varnish the furniture, earn
on an average seven dollars a-week. Besides the vast
cabinet factories, there are numerous extensive
establishments for the manufticture of agricultural
implements, machinery, and iron ware. Boots and
shoes arc also made in enormous quantities. In
short, it seems as if Cincinnati had set herself the
task of furnishing and clothing the whole world,
and was determined to accomplish it. The manu-
flicturing power is, indeed, almost unlimited; for
besides an abundant supply of water, Ohio possesses
11,900 square miles of coal-field, which is one-third
of the area of the State; and has direct communication

202

A VACATION TOUR.

with the west and south by means of the Ohio and
Mississippi Rivers. Tlie city is also connected by
railways with all the Eastern States; and extensive
lines, extending over 2100 miles, are in course of
formation throughout the State. When the great
central railway to St. Louis shall be completed, Cin-
cinnati will become the thoroughfare to the far west ;
for it is proposed to continue the railway from the
Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. Already a
considerable portion of the line between St. Louis and
the frontier of Missouri is under contract, and will
probably be finished in the course of tw^o years. If
this route be completed, — and who can set bounds to
American] enterprise ? — and a communication esta-
blished westward by steamship to Calcutta, the time
required for the circuit of the globe would be ninety-
three days according to the following estimate : —

From New York to San Francisco -

- 4

San Francisco to Hong Kong -

- 25

Hong Kong to Calcutta - - -

- 6

Calcutta to Bombay - - .

- 13

Bombay to England - . -

- 35

London to New York - - -

- 10

Total time required for tbe journey round the world 93

So that the barrister, a few years hence, may spend

TOUR OF THE GLOBE. — GERMANS.

203

hi's lo"^ vacation circum-railing and naviVatIng the
globe with greater facility and less toil than^ his fore-
fathers experienced in making a continental tour. This
is no wild daj-dreani : many persons at Cincinnati
assured me a railway to the Pacific would be con-
structed in a few years, and unless some extraordinary
commercial reaction withdraws capital from Ohio, I
believe such a line will be made ; at all events, it will
not be left undone for want of enterprise.* Contem-
plating the restless fever pervading all classes in
Cincinnati (for although upwards of 30,000 of the
population are Germans, the phlegmatic temperament
of that people, as seen in their own country, disap-
pears in the New World), I was at no loss to account
for the shortness of life in America. The entire want
of rest and peace must be fatal to longevity. Had
Wordsworth been a citizen of the United States,
he would have written a stronger remonstrance
than —

•' The world is too much with us ; soon and late,
Getting and spending, we lay waste our powers ; "

* On the 1st January 1855, the length of railways in the
United States was 19,438 miles, being an increase of 3927 miles
during 1854. It is estimated that there are about 7500 miles
of additional railway now in course of construction, which will
be completed within four years.

204

A VACATION TOUR.

wliich, if applicable to Englishmen, holds with greater
force in America.

I had not been many hours — minutes, indeed, I
may say— in Cincinnati, before the swinish multitude,
for which that city is famous, made personal ac-
quaintance witli me. I first saw them in the market,
to which I went early in the morning ; not, however,
like decent pigs, doing justice to good care and feed-
ing by exhibiting fair and fat carcases; but, with
taper noses and tucked-up bellies, running perversely
hither and thither, against and between one's legs,
as impelled by inclination and hunger; for the
Cincinnati pigs are both lanky and lean, and evi-
dently find it hard work to keep life within their
emaciated bodies. The greater part of the vegetables
and fruits is exposed for sale in the carts in which
they are brought to market, tilted up, to show their
contents ; and as the refuse is thrown away, the pif^s
congregate in swarms under and around the carts,
contending for the scraps, and occasionally for a honne
louche in the shape of a succulent vegetable or fruit
which accidentally falls to the ground.

But although the market Is the head-quarters of
the Cincinnati pigs, they are met with all over the
city. Indeed, there is scarcely a street in which
some dozen may not be seen poking their noses into

PORK CROP. -- ACREAGE OF PIGS. 205

the dirt-heaps, or acting as dams to the gutters, in
wliich thej repose during the heat of tlie day.

They perform an important part in the social
economy of the city, as scavengers. The picture
given by Mrs. Trollope of the condition of the streets
at the period of her residence in Cincinnati in 1828
holds good now. Inquiring from her landlord iu
what manner the house refuse was to be disposed of
she was answered, " Your help will just have to fix it
all mto the middle of the street ; but you must mind
old woman, that it is in the middle. I expect you don't
know as we have got a law whicli forbids throwing
such things at tlie sides of the streets ; tliey must jus"
all be cast right into the middle, and the pigs soon
takes them off." In truth, the pigs are constantly
seen domg Herculean service in this way, through
every quarter of the city. Not the least curious part
of this pig story, is, that the animals own no master,
being waifs and strays of the prodigious hog crop,'
extending over many acres around the city ; for it is
a peculiarity with the farmers of Ohio, to calculate
their pigs by the acre. And when we learn that the
last annual return gave 528,679 hogs killed in
Cincinnati, valuer^ at upwards of ten millions of
dollars, we must admit that " pig acreage " is pardon-
able. It must not be supposed, however, that the

206

A VACATION TOUR.

Cincinnati pigs are allowed to lead a long life of
vagabondism. When their numbers increase by
births and immigration to about six thousand, they
are collected and sold by auction for the benefit of
the city. Prior to this event, any person may capture
a pig, if he can, — for the Cincinnati pigs have a
wonderful facility of locomotion,— and kill it pro bono
familias : hear this, ye natives of the Emerald Isle,
whose height of ambition and fortune is the posses-
sion of one porker. I could not learn that such a
liberty was taken with the Cincinnati pigs, and I must
say it would require even an Irishman to be very badly
off for meat to dine on one of the ctreet scaveno-ers.

The pig-trade of Cincinnati employs 2500 hands.
Large establishments around the city are devoted to
the killing and preparing of pigs for the market,
some of which are so contrived that the animals
walk up an inclined plane as swine, and by the
time they descend to the ground, passing en route
through a series of stages, are comfortably pickled
and barrelled. With these facts, can we wonder
that Cincinnati rejoices in the title of Porkopolis as
well as the Queen of the West.

Seated high on a hill overlooking the city and the
silver windings of the Ohio, is an establislnnent alike
honourable to the citizens and the gentleman more

eman more

OBSERVATORV. — CATAWBA GRAPES. 207

immediately connected with it. I allude to the ob-
servatorj, containing a magnificent refractor, hy
Fraunhofer, which has rendered good service to
astronomy. Professor Mitchell is at the head of the
establishment, which is partly supported by the Astro-
nomical Society of Cincinnati. The view from the
observatory is very striking, extending over a series
of vme-clad hills, dotted by countless villas. Being
desirous of gaining some information respecting the
cultivation of the Catawba grape, I called on\Mr
Longworth, who has the merit of having introduced
the manufacture of champagne into Cincinnati. He
occupies a charming residence in the upper part of
the city, standing in the midst of a large garden full
of vines and flowers. The lower part of the house
IS devoted to business offices,-for even here the
omnipresence of American commerce is apparent. I
found Mr. Longworth in his office, surrounded by
small boxes containing samples of grapes sent for his
approval. He is an original character. Commencing
hfe with little more than unbounded energy and en-
terprise, he has accumulated a fortune of 10,000 000
of dollars, which he dispenses liberally and judi-
ciously. Conceiving that the Catawba grape was
capable of producing good wine, he imported French-
men from Champagne to cultivate the vines ; and

208

A VACATION TOUR.

has succeeded so well that last year he made 150,000
dozen of wine, superior, judging by the sample which
I tasted, to the champagne supplied at hotels, one
half of which is spurious. Mr. Longworth's manu-
facture is the honest and unadulterated juice of the
Catawba grape, — a luscious fruit, endowed with a
peculiar aromatic odour. While we were conversing,
two formers entered the office desirous of sellino- their
vintage, for which Mr. Longworth agreed to give 75
cents a gallon. He encourages the agriculturists to
cultivate vines, and lends them casks to contain the
juice, which they express by cider-mills. The aver-
age produce is three gallons per bushel. The vines
grow on low trellises. Hitherto they have escaped
the blight so prevalent among the vines in Europe
and Madeira. Mr. Longworth's cellars, with the ex-
ception of not being so large as those in France, in
other respects resemble them. The same stowage of
casks and bottles is observed ; and the delicate ope-
ration of removing the sediment, filling up with
liqueur and sugar-candy, and corking, is identical
with the practice in Epernay. Indeed all the men
employed in the cellars are from that neighbourhood.
The quantity of Catawba champagne manufactured
does not as yet meet the home demand; but, at the
rate of increase during recent years, it is probable it

llIIiAM rOWERS. — HIS FIRST WORK. 209

may be eventually exported. At present it com-
mands a price equal to Moet's champagne.

" Now," said Mr. Longworth, when he had ex-
iiausted his information concerning champagne, made
pleasantly practical by frequent tastings of luscious
bunches of grapes depending from mantling vines in
tlie garden ; '^ now I will show you Hiram Powers'
first work." Accordingly he conducted me into his
house to a suite of handsome drawing-rooms, where
in a place of honour was a bust of Ginevra, con-
ceived from Rogers's poem, which describes her as

" So lovely, yet so arch, so full of mirth,
She was all gentleness, all gaiety."

The work is exceedingly beautiful, and full of that
promise of perfection which the more recent hibours
of the sculptor have realised. Powers is a native
of Cincinnati. Mr. Longworth was one of his earliest
patrons, ar I takes great pleasure in showing his
countryman's sculptures which he possesses, as° well
as several fine pictures including West's celebrated
painfing of Ophelia and Hamlet.

I availed myself of the National Theatre being
open to witness a performance ; the spectators bein^°
liowever, more an object of curiosity to me than the'
actors. The building, which is very large, was

210

A VACATION TOUR.

■

iwiji

; .

■

cramnieil, with the exception of tlio gallery for
coloured persons occupied by about a score of blacks.
The acting was vile, but it gave great satisfaction to
the audience, who manifested their approbation by
yelling furiously. The great applause emanated
from the pittites, who sat in their s\irt-sleeves chewintr
and spitting with proper republican liberty. The
boxes were occupied by a superior grade, but I
observed few ladies or gentlemen. The prices of
admission were : boxes 75 cents, pit 35 cents, gallery
for coloured persons 25 cents. The performance
consisted of a grand military drama representing the
capture of Algiers, in which, by a slight historical
myth, the American fleet was made to render good
service to the French. On the announcement that
victory was now certain, as the fleet bearing the star-
spangled banner was in sight, I really thought the
audience would have gone into fits, so savagely did
they yell their delight.

Just as I was entering my hotel for. the night, I
was startled by the quick tolling of bells, the clatter
of engines, and the shouts of men and boys. Looking
up, I beheld above the summit of a lofty tower,
situated on the highest ground in the city, four red
balls. These indicated that a fire had broken out in
the fourth ward. Cincinnati is divided into twelve

STEAM FIRE-ENGINE. 211

wards, and when a fire is observed hy the watchman
on the summit of the fire-tower, he gives notice by
ringing a bell and showing balls ~ red at nicrht ^
corresponding with the number of the ward where
the conflagration occurs.

Though I was desperately tired, I felt it a duty to
turn out again; and as Cincinnati is built, like most
American cities, in uniform blocks, I had no difficulty
m finding the locality of the fire, though a long
^vay off. I had reason to concrratulate myself on
my energy; for besides the speciacle, alwavs grand
and impressive, of a vast conflagration, I* saw the
celebrated steam fire-engine in operation which was
invented in Cincinnati, and at the period of my
visit confined to that city; though I believe one has
since been introduced in Boston. The volume or
volumes rather, of water,- for there are six jetl of
various sizes thrown by this engine,-were enormous;
and although the fire raged furiously, it was soon
subdued by the torrents poured on the flames. Nu-
merous hand and horse-engines were also in at-
tendance, admirably worked by the fire companies;
but their united efforts seemed as nothing compared
to the performance of the steam-engine. The
building, a large coach factory, was partlv saved
from the flames. The following morning iVent to

p 2

212

A VACATION TOUE.

see this engine. I found it under a shed, in the
upper part of the city, ready at a moment's warning
to set out. The fireman on duty, who, with the
usual courtesy I always received from officials in the
States, answered my questions, informed me the time
required to get up the steam is only four minutes.
Horses are in the first instance attached, which draw
the engine until it becomes a locomotive, for it is con-
structed with locomotive machinery as well as to
throw water. In size and form it very much resembles
a railway engine, but has only three wheels. The
chief engineer of the Cincinnati Fire Brigade, in his
last annual report says : *' The steam fire-engine ha5
been in use over sixteen months ; and if any doubt
remained, at the date of my last report, of the prac-
ft'noT-i*'.- of this invention, it must now be removed.
l:s triu: nhant success has so completely satisfied
eve;;,: "ho has stt.i the engine in operation, that
when a second row building is completed, the city
will be able to dispense with several horse and hand-
engines, and thereby save a large annual sum."

From what I learned, it appears probable these
steam fire-engines will be used in all the large towns
in the States. The great number of wooden build-
ings, and the excessive dryness of the materials,
render fires very prevalent and destructive during

POLICE COURT.

213

the summer months : many originate from incendiaries.
During 1853 there were 160 fires in Cincinnati,
involving a loss of property worth nearly a million
dollars.

I spent an hour in the principal police court,
which was crowded by ^^ loafers " and gamins,
watching the proceedings with reference to several
of their companions, who were brought up for using
obscene language in public places. There were ten
cases of this nature, each of which was punished by
a fine of ten dollars. Besides tliese, tliere were
assault cases and petty felonies. The judicial pro-
ceedings were conducted with decorum ; so that
matters have improved in this respect since
Mrs. Trollope sketched a Cincinnati court of justice.
The magistrates did not chew ; in whicli, however,
they were singular, as the practice, with its usual
disgusting accompaniment, was otherwise general.
Indeed, it would be impossible to draw too foul a
picture of tobacco-chewing in Cincinnati. The
handsome hall and steps of the Burnet House ^^■ero
seas of filth; numerous spittoons, placed in con-
venient places to receive tlie pollutions, were un-
heeded; groups seated round the columns preferred
fining the concavities of the flutings, whicli they did
with great dexterity, or hittins

loro

«tant olijccts

r 3

214

A VACATION TOUR.

This mass of nastiness was made very apparent every
morning by a lavatory process, effected by a hose dis-
charging a powerful and copious stream of water, which
caused a brown cataract to rush down the hotel steps.
Americans west of the AUeghanies might, indeed, as
has been observed, pass for a cud-chewing people; with,
however, this important and disagreeable difference,
that whereas quadrupeds swallow their cud, the
bipeds in question pursue a totally different course.

I found the " Know-nothings " in great force at

Cincinnati. The cart-horses were decked with

rosettes of coloured tissue paper, emblematic of the

party, and children wore wreaths of the same

material. The animus against Irishmen and Roman

Catholics was excessive ; but the movement here

was marked by an extension of illiberality to all

foreigners. A Cincinnati paper advocating the

Know-nothing cause, published this strong philippic :

" Foreigners claim too much when they come to this

country. They are unjust, impertinent, insulting,

and outrageous in their demands. It is enough that

we give homes to those who visit our shores; that

we protect property, and shield them from bodily

harm ; that men and women are allowed to worship

as they may, if done in decency and morality ; that

our common schools and many other educational

r ^i

KNOW-NOTHINGS.

215

institutions are made free to all. We think this
should satisfy. It is a great deal. It is a hundred-fold
more than any government on the face of the earth
gives. The making and administering of our laws ;
the filling our offices from the highest to the humblest;
the entire management of national, state, and local
affairs, political, educational, &c., should be in the
hands of native Americans. It is a right that Ame-
ricans claim; it is a wrong, and a gross wrong, that
the claim is infringed upon, as it notoriously is."

With such agitation on the part of the press, and
secret workings in all quarters, it is no wonder that
the strongest freesoil places have been carried by
Know-nothing votes. In fact, all who vote against
the party are ostracised ; implicit and unquestioned
obedience is their rule, to which no exception is per-
mitted. And it is a remarkable fact, that so eager
are they to obtain power for native Americans, and
none besides, that the question of slavery was at first
excluded from the Know-nothing platform. Here,
however, as elsewhere, a counter-agitation is springing
up, which will have the effect of weakening this formi-
dable party. This agitation, and the universal desire
for political distinction among Americans, calls to
mind De Tocqueville's pertinent observation that,
while in old aristocratic countries parties tnjoy power

V 4

216

A VACATIOX TOUR.

and influence by their rank, the American " est sans
cesse tourmente dii besoin, d'y acqu(5rir de I'impor-
tance, et il sent un ddsir petulant d'y mettre a tous
moments ses idees au grand jour."

With few exceptions, all the labour in and near
Cincinnati is performed by Irish. Though the river
Ohio only divides the city from Kentucky, which is
a Slave State, there were not more than 3237 free
blacks in Cincinnati in 1850. They occupy a quarter
of the city near the river called " Buckeye," and are
principally engaged in occupations connected with
the shipping.

Apprehending that my stock of gold eagles and
dollars might run short before arriving at Washington,
I called on the agents of Messrs. Coutts, whose letters
of credit I held, for the purpose of obtaining a fresh
supply. Much to ipy surprise I was informed a large
premium would be required for gold, which I declined
paying, and consequently left the counting-house
without transacting any business. I mention this in
order to show how scarce specie is in the States,
although California pours millions of dollars annually
into her treasury. The solution of this apparent
paradox is easy. A financial pressure has long been
felt throughout the Union, and particularly in the
Western States, which have been obliged to send all

COINAGE. — COUNTERFEIT NOTES. 217

the specie procurable to Europe to meet obligations;
and thus gold was sent out of the country when it
was wanted at home for the basis of circulation.

The tourist in the States must take especial care to
be provided with gold : otherwise he will not only
be subjected to certain loss, but terrible inconvenience
nnd annoyance. The wretched bank-notes, of
wortliless paper commonly called shin plasters, are
so frequently imitated that, unless the traveller is
provided with a « Bank-Note Reporter," published
monthly, and continually consults it, he is sure to
be imposed upon. In a recent copy of this period-
ical, out of 1283 banks by far the largest propor-
tion have had their notes imitated. In several in-
stances ten distinct forgeries are described. One
bank figures with a tail of thirty imitations. The
words "dangerous affair," "very well executed,"
'' good imitation of genuine," « well done," « dose
imitation," &c., are frequently attached, showing how
cleverly the forgers have operated, and therefore how
difficult is detection. On the other hand, many imi-
tations are stated to be exceedingly poor. The effect
of this miserable state of things is to cast suspicion
on every note ; for it appears there are almost as
many forgeries in circulation as genuine bank bills.
I was constantly witness to disputes between railway

218

A VACATION TOUR.

conductors and passengers, which, however, invari-
ably ended by the conductors refusing to receive tlie
doubtful notes.

This wholesale system of forgery, pervading every
part of the Union, is a sad blot on the national cha-
ract T I am well aware that the facility of passing
spurious notes is a great temptation to commit the
crime which is so frequently practised, and to so
alarming an extent as to be productive of the very
worst consequences to the community. Whether the
keen and greedy appetite for gain may not be in some
n;ieasure instrumental in thus warping the minds of
men is questionable ; for

" Conscience, truth, and honesty are made
To rise and fall, like other wares of trade ; "

and Montesquieu wisely observes, — " Nous voyons
que, dans les pays ou Ton n'est affecte que de I'esprit
de commerce, on trafique de toutes les actions hu-
maines, et de toutes les vertus morales."*

Besides forgeries, many genuine notes are worth-
less in consequence of the insolvent condition of the
banks ; and, independently of the 1283 banks men-
tioned above, 383 more are specified as broken or
closed, 53 of which are in Ohio.

* De I'Esprit des Lois, liv. xx. chap. 2.

KENTUCKY. — SPRING GROVE CEMETERY. 219

The tourist will therefore see how essential it is
for his comfort to avoid American bank-notes. Eng-
lish sovereigns will be generally tpJ.en ; but the best
gold coins are eagles, half-eagles, and dollars, which
may be obtained without a pr^miium in the principal
Canadian towns and sea-board eastern cities.

I availed myself of one of the numerous ferries
continually plying across the Ohio, to visit Covington,
in Kentucky, wliich geographically may be regarded
as one of the suburbs of Cincinnati. But although
so near this bustling city, and having all the advan-
tages of being on the banks of the river, Covington is
a dull place, showing no sign of activity. This
strange fact is explained by the influence of slavery,
which oppresses as well as depresses Kentucky. Thus
while 26-88 per cent, of the population of Ohio are
engaged in commerce, trade, manufactures, &c., only
19-15 per cent of the population of Kentucky follow
tliese occupations.

When I was at Toronto, a gentleman of that place,
hearing I purposed going to Cincinnati,, requested me
to do him the favour to visit Spring Grove Cemetery,
about six miles from the clly, and report to him
whether a tombstone he had ordered was placed over
the grave of his onl- .on, whom he had the misfor-
tune to lose at Cincinnati. The gentleman added.

220

A VACATION TOUR.

that altliougli he had remitted the money for the
tombstone, and Written numerous letters desiring to
know if it had been erected, he could not elicit m
answer. Of course I willingly acceded to his request ;
and accordingly, on the evening preceding my depar-
ture from Cincinnati, I went to the cemetery. But
the trip was well nigh terminating my travels, and
making me a subject for permanent residence among
the tombs. Acting on the instructions I received
from the landlord of the Burnet House, I took an
omnibus to a place about a mile from Spring Grove,
where buggies were waiting to convey parties to the
cemetery. " Here Tom," said the driver, at whose
side 1 was seated, " take this man to the cemetery,
and bring him back at seven for the last 'bus."
These words were addressed to a youth in charge of
a buggy, who replied by nodding assent, and dis-
charging a cataract of brown saliva among a lot
of hens. As there was no time to lose, I was soon
en route, " Tom " urging his horse at the top of his
speed. I am not a nervous man, so, although we
went at a break -neck rate, careering over stones and
through deep ruts, I made no remonstrance, having
faith in the springs. But when, on turning a
corner, we came suddenly in sight of a board, with
the well-known notice, " Look out for the locomotive

NARROW ESCAPE.

221

when the hell rings;' which was made more impressive
by liearing the signal, and seeing the line of steam
announcing the proximity of a train, I was some-
what anxious, as my driver did not manifest the
slightest disposition to stop. As usual, the road and
railway crossed on the same level, which did not
lessen my anxiety. « Hold hard ! stop, stop ! " I cried ;
and as these words received no attention, I rose from
my seat and grasped the driver's arm, for the purpose
of arresting our progress ; but in vain. Lashing the
horse with redoubled energy, he replied to my
entreaties to stop, by the assurance he would go a-
head of the en-gine; and to my horror, on we went,
buggy and train approximating rapidly at right
angles ; the locomotive's bell meanwhile ringing fiTri-
ously what seemed to be my death knell. Finding all
my efforts to avert an anticipated collision were futile,
I resumed my seat, and resigned myself to my fate!
What I did or said during the next few moments I
know not ; but I remember a feeling of sickness came
over me as we dashed across the line, and I beheld
the iron horse rushing onwards, and almost felt the
hot blast of its steam-jets.

" There, I told you I'd clear the darn'd thing,"
said my driver, chuckling over the achievement;
" but 'twas a close shave."

222

A VACATION TOUR.

This little adventure added to my experience of the
extraordinary disregard of human life in America;
but a more striking example was in store for me, as
will be seen hereafter. It is indeed impossible to travel
far or long without meeting with cases illustrating the
fact, and the traveller should deem himself fortunate
if he be not included in the list of killed or wounded.
I heard a pithy anecdote bearing on this subject, which
we must hope is only ti'uthful in its moral. " Jack,"
said a man to a lad just entering his teens, "your
father's drowned." " Darn it," replied the young
hopeful; "and he's got my knife in his pocket."

We arrived at Spring Grove without further in-
cident. Like all American cemeteries, this is a
scene of great natural beauty, contrasting strangely,
but delightfully, in its hushed repose with the
clamour and restlessness of the city, many of whose
inhabitants rest here from their labours. Havino;
executed my comm'ssion, I entrusted myself again to
the mercies of my wild driver, who, true to his trust,
brought the maii back in time for the last omnibus to
Cincinnati. When within a couple of miles of the
city we encountered a terrific thunderstorm. The
sun was sinking in a flood of crimson glory, which
changed to purple darkness. Then the flood-gates of
heaven opened, and with a running accompaniment of

THL'NDERSTORM. — LEAVE CINCINNATI. 223

roaring tliunder, and Hazing fire of blinding intensity,
rain descended in such torrents as to turn the roads
ahuost instantaneously into rivers. Meteorological
phenomena in America are on a scale of grandeur
commensurate with the vastness of the country.

The brief duration of this agony of the elements
was as startling as its violence. In less than an hour
from the commencement, the heavy masses of inky
clouds were scattered before the storm-blast, and
nothing obscured the deep blue sky.

Had the rain that I witnessed been general and con-
tmuous, the Ohio would have speedily risen. This
river, which during spring months is sixty feet deep
at Cincinnati, had now only eighteen inches of water
m its channel ; thus I was disappointed in my
liopes of being able to proceed to Pittsburg by water.
The large steamers were laid up, and the s°mall boats'
propelled by a paddle fixed to the stern, only .an for
short distances; so I was obliged to leave Cincinnati
by railway.

224

A VACATION TOUR.

CHAP. IX.

COLUMUt:S. — UNCIVIL LANDLORD. — ZANESVILLE. — OHIO
COAL-FIELD. — CAMBRIDGE. — DOUBLING-UP. — OHIO FARMS.
— VILLAGE LITERATURE. — STAGE-COACH. — INDIAN CORN.

— WHEAT CROP. — MAPLE TREES. — WILD VINES. — INDE-
PENDENT DRIVERS. — ORCHARD-RODBING. — MORRISTOWN.

— NEGRESS FANNERS. — BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. — TELE-
GRAPH. — WHEELING. — WIRE BRIDGE. — RAILWAY TO CUM-
BERLAND. — CROSS THE ALLEGHANIES.— STUPENDOUS EN-
GINEERING. — CAMEL-ENGINES. — MAGNIFICENT FORESTS.
— PRECIPICES. — TRAIN OFF THE LINE. — MIDNIGHx
ARRIVAL. — CUMBERLAND. — CHURCH BELLS. — RAMBLE
IN FOREST. — COAL-FIELD. — RATTLESNAKES. — IRREGU-
LARITY OF TRAIN. — MESSENGER-TRAIN. — FRIGHTFUL
SPEED. — RECKLESSNESS OF CONDUCTOR. — ACCIDENT. —
NARROW ESCAPE. — IMPROMPTU PIC-NIC. THE PO-
TOMAC. — INSECURE STATE OF RAILS. — LONG DETEN-
TION. — harper's FERRY. — RELAY HOUSE. — ARRIVE AT
WASHINGTON.

My route lay over the AUeghanies ; and as these
mountains are crossed by two railways, it became a
consideration which line I should take. One starts
from Pittsburg, and passes through the heart of
Pennsylvania ; the other, commencing at Wheeling,
traverses Maryland, crosses the AUeghanies at an
ekvation of 2400 feet, and follows the picturesque

COLUMBUS. —UNCIVIL LANDLOHD. 225

winaings of the Potomac to Baltimore. I liad heard
so mucli of tlie grandeur of the scenery on tliis line
and of the engineering difficulties which have been
overcome, that I decided in its favour; not bcin.. at
the time aware of its reputation for frequent Tcci-
dents, of which I was destined to liave a practical
illustration. It is a great convenience in America to
be enabled to take a through ticket for a lone, journey
involving change of railways. In the present case
Washington, 680 miles from Cincinnati, was my
destmation : and although I had to travel over line^
belonging to different companies, one ticket carried
n^-c through. Besides the saving of much trouble
by thjs plan, it is a little less exi^ensive.

I left Cincinnati in the afternoon, and arrived at
Columbus, 120 miles distant, at ten o'clock. Here I
slept; and for the first and only time in the States
expenen.^ed incivility at an hotel. The landlord
refused to give me any refreshment, of which
I stood greatly in need, alleging that the eatinc
saloon was closed for the night and could not be re!
opened ; so I was obliged to retire to my room sup-
Perless. This early closing movement was the more
remarkable, as the hotel was full of a confederation of
raihvay directors engaged in adjusting a scale of fares
for their various railways. The following morning I

226

A VACATION TOUR.

resumed my joiirnev to Zanesville, where I had to
remain six hours, until a train on another line pro-
ceeded to Cambridge. I did not, however, regret
this delay, as it gave me an opportunity nf seeing in
detail the very interesting and remarkable coal-beds
of this part of Ohio.

The town stands on the sandstone formation near
the falls of the Muskingum, in a most picturesque
and beautiful region. Overlying the sandstone in
tlie adjacent hills, which rise about 200 feet above
the river, are beds of bituminous coal which almost
crop out at the summit and sides of the hills. These
beds are on the verge of the great Pittsburg coal-
field, which extends over portions of Pennsylvania,
Ohio, and Virginia, occupying an elliptical area 225
miles in its longest diameter, and about 100 at its
.maximum breadth ; its superficial extent being about
14,000 square miles. Of the Ohio division of this
coal-field Mr. Taylor observes, in his valuable work
" Statistics of Coal,"—" The physical features of the
country are favourable to the working of these hori-
zontal coal strati, by the simple means of adit levels;
and it will be long ere the wants of the community
call for another system of working, either by steam-
power, deep shafts, or costly machinery. Probably
a mean thickness of si.\ feet of coal, capable of being

OHIO COAL-FIELD.

227

ible coal-beds

worked over 5000 square miles, is a moderate esti-
mate of our coal resources in this part of the States.
According to certain data, there are now beneath the
surface qf these 5000 square miles, tlu'rty thousand
millions of tons of coal. In the ordinary method of
computation in these cases, we may safely estimate
that at least twenty-three thousand millions of tons
are available. Could we contemplate a demand for
Ohio coal as large as five millions of tons per annum,
there will be an annual supply unexhausted until the
termination of four thousand six hundred years."
Prodigious as this is, subsequent investigations not
only confirm the calculation, but justify Tts enlarge-
raent ; for it has been proved that in some counties
the coal-bed is from twenty to thirty feet thick. So
that, when the comparatively small coal area of Great
Britain, comprising 8139 square miles, is exhausted,
the inhabitants of our islands may be warmed by the
coal-fields of America, which extend over an area of
133,132 square miles.

^ I was much pleased by my ramble round Zanes-
ville. The country has an English aspect, undulating
like portions of Staffordsliiro ; and is covered by
clumps of trees, mostly American oaks of great
J3eauty. The town is named after Ebenezer Zane,
one of the earliest and most enterprising pioneers of

Q 2

228

A VACATIOX TOUR.

the West. The town-plot, a mile square, was granted
to him by Congress in 1796, in consideration of his
surveying and laying out a road on the most eligible
route between Wheeling in Virginia, and Limestone
in Kentucky. The perfect knowledge of the country
obtained in his hunting excursions enabled him to do
this in the most satisfactory manner. The town was
laid out in 1800, and three years afterwards con-
tained only ten families. It has now a population of
8000, and its vast deposits of coal and iron, with
almost unlimited water power, give it superior fa-
cilities in many kinds of manufactures. The inha-
bitants have improved these advantages, and iron-
works, flour-mills, &c. are in full operation. The
price of coal is 90 cents, less than four shillings, per
ton.

At seven in the evening I resumed my journey,
proceeding in the first instance to Cambridge, where
the Baltimore and Ohio Railway terminated, as the
works between that village and Wheeling were not
completed. We arrived at Cambridge in a couple of
hours, and found stages waiting to take us on to
Wheeling. Although the distance is only forty
miles, twelve hours are spent on the road. I looked
forward to this night's journey with particular dread ;
for besides being myself very tired, the weather was

CAMBRIDGE.

229

hot, and terrible prospects of tobacco-chewing and ex-
pectoration rose before me. My apprehensions were
in some degree confirmed, being obliged to occupy a
middle seat between two foul-smelling men whose
restless jaws indicated what was going on within,
and what would pass without. I had to put up with
this bad seat in consequence of having to act as porter
to my luggage, which delayed my movements, so that
when I was ready to start, the best places were
taken ;— another practical lesson of the inconvenience
of much baggage.

We had a mile to drive to Cambridge, which gave
me anything but a pleasant idea of what the journey
would be in extenso ; and I was speculating on its
miseries, positive and probable, when a fellow-pas-
senger, who had previously expressed his hatred of
the contemplated journey, declared if he could wait
for the morning stages he would « be darn'd if he'd
travel at night." This was the first intimation
I received of the possibility of proceeding to
Wheeling by day; and I need scarcely say that
when I found that the journey could be resumed
the following morning, I quickly vacated my seat
on arriving at Cambridge. This, one of the many
places of the same name in the States, is a small
village containing a few humble taverns, in one of

230

A VACATION TOUR.

which I procured a bed, but noL a room, to myself.
Anything, however, was better than journeying in the
stage at night, and I was fortunate in having for my
nocturnal companion an intelligent farmer, who gave
me a considerable amount of interesting information.
His fatlier was a Scotchman who had emigrated to
Oliio at the beginning of the century, bringing
nothing with him but energy, determination, good
health, and a thrifty wife. With these elements of
success prosperity crowned his labours ; and he had
the satisfaction of seeing his children, of whom my
informant was the eldest, settled on good farms with
every prospect of flourishing. The principal crop
raised is Indian corn, for which the State is celebrated.
My companion gave me a graphic account of the
great change he had witnessed in Ohio. The settler
in liis father's days had a very limited market for his
agricultural produce. Without variety of industrial
pursuits, and without commerce, no amount of surplus
could add much to his wealth or means of enjoyment.
But on the completion of canals, and the development
of steam navigation, an instantaneous and mighty
impulse was imparted to agriculture as well as to
commerce, under the influence of which all their
interests have moved forward with constantly accele-
rating pace to the present time. So that the song, —

VILLAGE LITERATURE. 231

'' 'Tls I can delve and plough, love,
And you can lin and sew,
And we'll settie on the banks
Of the pleasant Ohio,"

is ba«ed on no fabulous agricultural paradise.

When I woke in the morning, I found myself alone,
the farmer having departed. While dressing, I ob-
served a small library of about a couple of hundred
volumes, the appearance and titles of which were con-
siderably at variance with the furniture of the room.
Among them were the works of Bacon, Spenser,
Dryden, Shakspeare, and other old English celebrities,
besides many modern books, including « An Essay on
Newton," which was an appropriate work to find in
" Cambridge." The booko belonged to the landlord's
only son, who had received a high education In the
Philadelphia common schools.

After a breakfast, more notable for its rouoh
abundance than elegance, consisting of beef-steaks
two inches thick, Indian corn-bread, molasses, and
very sedimentary coffee, I set out on a stage to
Wheeling. The morning was delightful, the air
was crisp, and the great heat of the past week had
subsided. Although the large and ponderous stage
on which I rode had only two passengers, a second

Q 4

232

A VACATION TOUR.

vehicle of the same imwieldly construction accom-
panied us, in order to keep up the supply at Wheeling.
An American stage-coach is nearly as great a
curiosity as one of our old four-horse stages ; so I was
not sorry to have an opportunity of travelling during
the day by one of these vehicles. I was fortunate too
in having an outside seat, for the country is extremely
beautiful between Cambridge and Wheeling. We
passed a succession of fine farms, situated in sheltered
hollows, surrounded by fields of stately maize, whose
flowing tassels waved in the breeze, orchards filled
with ripe apples, and occasional vineyards. But the
maize was the ])revailing crop, and I saw it in all its
glorv.

" Now the strong foliage bears the standard high,
And shoots the tall top-gallants to the sky ;
The suckling ears their silky fringes bend,
And pregnant green their swelling coats distend :
The loaded stalk, while still the burthen grows,
O'erhangs the space that runs between the rows ;
High as a hop-field waves the silent grove,
A safe retreat for little thefts of love."

The quantity of Indian corn grown in the States is
enormous. There are six varieties of yellow, nine of
white, and two of blood-red. It is a favourite edible
among all classes, being made into an infinite variety
of bread, cakes, puddings, and dishes, most of which

WHEAT CROP.

233

are eaten with molasses, for « omne tulit punctum
qui miscuit utile dulci;'' and the American by his
practice subscribes to the physical moral of the
quotation.

If the inhabitants of the States depended for their
supply of bread on the wheat crop alone, it would
fall very short. An interesting table, compiled at the
close of the past year from official returns, discloses
the following curious facts. Nineteen States (out of
thirty-one) do not raise wheat enough for their own
consumption. Eight States only raise a substantial
surplus; the other four producing only a nominal
surplus. Eight principal manufacturing States, ten
planting States, and one mining State, do not raise
their own bread. California will probably grow
sufficient wheat for its own consumption; and New
York is nearly balanced. The fifteen Slave States
do not quite raise their own bread, although
Virginia and Maryland export largely. Ohio grovvs
as much wheat (on the average) as all the other
North-western States combined, and her surplus is
nearly the whole surplus of the country. The crop
in 1852, according to the State assessor's return, was
24,000,000 bushels ; but this is three millions below
the averatre.

Maize possesses the good quality of being highly

234

A VACATION TOUR.

nutritions, as its botanical name Zea Mays signifies.
Schoolcraft says the warriors of the six nations
were in the habit of undertaking long journeys of
thousands of miles, carrying no other food than a
little meal, one table-spoonful of which, mixed with
sugar and water, sustained an Indian twenty-four
hours without meat.

Alternating with the fiirms were patches of forest,
fringing the road-side, already dashed by those
brilliant hues which give such a charm to American
foliage in the autumn. The maples are the first to
assume their gaudy colours, and here these trees are
abundant, for they are highly valuable to the agri-
cultural settler. A favourite song runs, —

" The maple tree's a precious one,
'Tis fuel, food, and timber ;
And when your stiff day's work is done,
Its juice will make you limber :

Then flow away, my sweety sap, \

And I will make you boily ;
Nor catch a woodman's hasty nap,
For fear you should get roily."

"Wild vines garlanded the branches and wreathed the
stems of the trees, and a profusion of wild flowers
carpeted the ground.

I had so often heard of the cool independence of
American stage-drivers that I was curious to witness

DRIVING. — ORCHARD-ROBBING.

235

a specimen of their manners. The first two— for we
changed them with our horses — were not remark-
able, but the tliird would certainly have astonished
an English coachman on the north road. His dress
was peculiar, consisting of a queer head-piece,
neither hat nor cap, a light green coat very short in
the waist and very long-tailed, bright brown trowsers
terminating at his ancles, and boots with red legs.
Like his brethren of the whip, he grasped the reins
in both hands, leaning forward, and urged his team
by voice and lash in a manner that would have
horrified a member of the Four-in-Hand Club.

We were opposite an orchard full of tempting-looking
fruit, when the driver above described suddenly pulled
up, and, handing me the reins, bade me hold them
while he went to get some apples. It happened that
the second coach was close behind us ; so when my
coachman had filled his pockets, he took it into his
head to sit by the side of his friend, desiring me, as
he mounted the box, to drive on. I obeyed orders,
and drove about two miles, passing various vehicles,
two of which I nearly fouled; forgetting that our
habit of taking the left side of the road is reversed in
America. As the horses, however, were steady, and
I am not altogether ignorant of the art of driving, I
acquitted myself on the whole very respectably, as

236

A VACATION TOUR.

the driver allowed, when it pleased hlin to resume his
scat.

In the middle of tlio day we stopped to dine at a
small place called ^lorristown, — passengers, drivers,
and conductors sitting down together. The repast
was abundant, though coarse, including the sempi-
ternal ham and eggs, and enormous crocks of mo-
lasses. These attracted clouds of flies, which were
kept in an unsettled state bj a company of grinning
nogresscs waving peacocks' tails over the table.

Strolling about after dinner, while the horses were
putting to, I came upon a kind of van, inscribed

Daguekuean Car,

in which facilities were given to the villagers and
country people to have daguerreotypes of themselves
and friends for 25 cents each. The performances
were really very good. I observed these cars in many
small towns.

The Americans are great patronisers of daguerreo-
types. An extensive trade is carried on in the manu-
facture of the plates and metal mountings, or trim-
mings as they are called, which are all made of
British copper.

During the day we passed numerous riding parties,
mounted on excellent horses. The equestrians were

BEAUTIFUL SCENERF. — TELEOnAni. 237

])rincipally farmers with their wives and daughters,
who evinced, by the manner in which they rode, that
tliey were accustomed to this deliglitful and inde-
pendent mode of locomotion.

Tlic scenery continued to be of the same charmino-
character as I have described, all the way to
Wheeling. Occasionally beds of coal darkened the
hill sides, enabling the proprietors to procure this
valuable combustible by the mere trouble of carting
it from the surface. Although the railway was not
completed, an electric telegraph communication
existed between Zanesville and Wheeling. Those
accustomed to the trim and regular lines of wire
forming our electric telegraphs, will be astonished by
the rough and simple mode in which the American
telegraph is constructed. It consists of a single wire
dangling between poles or trees,— for the line is
frequently carried tlirough forests, —and costs only 251.
per mile. I cannot, however, state that this small cost
insures efficiency ; for in the only two cases when I
had occasion to use the telegraph in the States, I was
told it was not in working order ; and I observed the
papers were frequently loud in their complaints
concerning the non-arrival of their telegraphic de-
spatches. The fault lies with the exceedingly im-
perfect nature of the insulation, and the frequent

238

A VACATION TOUR.

displacement of the wire by storms.* A gentleman
told me that on one occasion, when riding along a road
hy the side of which the telegraph was carried, his
horse's feet became entangled in the wire which lay
in folds on the ground, and inflicted severe wounds
on its legs, as the animal plunged in efforts to extri-
cate itself. Doubtless, as the couniry becomes more
settled, this pioneei of civilisation will be improved.

As the evening was closing we came in sight of
Wheeling, celebrated for its manufactures of glass and
iron, and for its wire bridge spanning the Ohio. Tlic
distance between the piers is 1010 feet; and the struc-
ture is so slight that a storm a few months ago perma-
nently injured one carriage track. It is contemplated
to rebuild it, so as to allow the railway to be carried
across the river. My impressions of Wheeling are
not fav'ourable. The hotel to which I was driven
was dirty and poor. My bed was straw stuffed
into a coarse ticking, and the furniture of the room
was of the meanest kind. I had the companionship
of the driver and conductor at supper, who were

* Great heat is also found to prevent the passage of the electric
current through non-galvanised wires. The wires stretched across
the great Missouri prairies do not act between two and six o'clock
in the day during the hot months of July and August.

CROSS THE ALLEGHANIES.

239

treated with more deference by the waiters than other
guests.

It was strange, after being so long accustomed to
the dehcious purity of the atmosphere in the towns
as well as country through which I had passed —
hitherto dimmed only by the smoke of the memorable
forest fires— to wake up beneatl a pall of dense
coal smoke that would have done honour to Man-
chester or Sheffield. Indeed, for the moment, I fancied
I had been spirited away during the night hours to
a Lancashire manufacturing town. As this glimpse
of Virginia was far from pleasing, I was not sorry
when the time arrived for the departure of the train
to Cumberland at the foot of the Alleghanies. As
the scenery on this line of railway is extremely fine,
I obtained permission from the manager at the station
to sit in the ladies' car, which, being the last carriage
of the train, gave me an opportunity of seeing every-
thing very well from the end windows and^xterior
platform. As far as Fairmont, seventy-seven miles
from Wheeling, the country continued pretty level :
here, however, we struck the roots of the Alleghanies,
and commenced the ascent of the Appalachian chain
of mountains. Few persons in these day-^ of travel
have not seen an Alpine road zig-zagging up the face

240

A VACATION TOUR.

of a mountain. Convert the road into a railway ;
dwarf the height to 2400 feet, whi^h, however, is a
very respectable elevation ; substitute cars for lum-
bering diligences, and an iron horse for animals of
blood and bone, and a very good idea may be formed
of the passage of the Alleghanies via the Baltimore
and Ohio Railway.

The engineering difficulties in the construction of
this line were terrible. They have, however, not
only been surmounted, but trains composed of five
cars, — each, be it remembered, sixty feet long, — and
a baggage- waggon, are drawn up inclines, with a
gradient of 118 to a mile, at the rate of twenty miles
an hour. This is a fact to which I can bear per-
sonal testimony. As may be supposed, no common
engine could perform this Herculean task. The
locomotives used for the purpose are colossal
machines, called " camels," and enormously power-
fuL The weight of the engine in running order is
thirty tons, and its length twenty-eight feet. It has
ten wheels, six of which are driving-wheels, connected
together, and bearing a burden of 45,000 lbs., distri-
buted among them by means ef levers and springs.
The cylinders are nineteen inches in diameter, with
a twenty-inch stroke of piston, and a "cut-off" for
working steam expansively. We were three hours,

MAGNIFICENT FORESTS. 241

including long stoppages, ascending to the summit-
level. During the whole of this time I was stationed
on the platform outside the last car, which, according
to a notice hung up inside, is a very dangerous
place; a fact I now subscribe to in its most emphatic
sense. But I was so much interested by the mag-
nificent scenery, and in watching the progress of the
cars as they zig-zagg. : up the mountain,- the engine
sometimes taking a different direction to the car in
which I was riding,-that I was totally unconscious
of the risk I ran of being shot off and down a pre-
cipice, had any accident occurred to the train.

The forests clothing this superb mountain region
are very grand, consisting of glorious cedars, hem-
locks, beeches, pines, elms, and maples; the latter
being easily distinguished by their brilliant hues.
Luxuriant rhododendrons fringe the cliffs, and the
tropical-leaved sumach, with its clusters of bright
berries, shows conspicuous among a dense undergrowth
of evergreens. From the summit of the ridges I
looked down upon vast amphitheatres of dense wood,
and sometimes upon valleys over which I seemed to be
suspended perpendicularly. The precipices on the
crest of which the railway is carried are fearful, and
reminded me of parts of the Pyrenees. At five
o'clock we were on the highest ridge, consisting of a

242

A VACATION TOUR.

I m

kind of tablc-lund, devoid of trees, in the middle of
■which is a small station called " Crest Line Summit."
Here we paused for a short time, and then com-
menced descending the mountain to Cumberland.
Wc were within half-a-dozen miles of our destination
when our engine sent forth a terrific shriek, the

a^onisino; throes of which reverberated anion o; the ro-
cs o o

cesses of the mountains, and as the sounds died away
we came to a stand-still. A coal train had gone off the
line before us, and, although a large force M'as employed
to clear the rails, we were detained four hours, and
did n- arrive at Cumberland until near midnight.
There I was fortunate in finding an excellent hotel,
the landlord of which, late as it was, put a capital
supper before me, during which I was waited on by
slaves ; Cumberland being in INIaryland, a Slave
State. I was not aware of this fact at the time,
or perhaps I should not have eaten my meal witli
equal gusto. As it was, I tliought my sable at-
tendants merry fellows.

I had so arranged my plans as to spend the following
day, which was Sunday, at Cumberland. The town
lies on the slope of the Alleghanies, where the moun-
tain barriers turn the water-courses towards the east.
Swelling hills rise around, among which the beautiful
Potomac winds. The whole scene has an EnoHsh as-

CHURCH BELLS.

243

pect, similar to cur lake scenerj, and the resemblance
IS n^creased by a charming Gothic church, built of
fawn-coloured stone, which crowns a hill in the upper
part of the town. Other resemblances, awakeninc.
memories of the dear old countrj, were detected as I
gazed on the lovely landscape, when mj day-dreams
were rudely dispelled by a most inharmonious bell,
not

•' Swinging slow, with solemn roar,
Over some wide watered shore,"

but sending forth ear-torturing sounds, alike disagree-
able and distressing. There is a story told of Frank-
bn, who, when the inhabitants of some small town in
the States requested him to aid them in the purchase
of bells for their chapel, sent a collection of books
^vith a letter stating that « Sense is preferable to
sound." Judging by the paucity of church bells in
America, and the miserable tone of those in use it
might be supposed Franklin's hint is so far observed
bjhis countrymen that at least they do not spend
their money on harmonious peals. Yet who that has
lieard the scul-stirring tones of a musical bell
huiifr '

" in some time-worn tower,
Reading great sermons with its iron tongue,"

244

A VACATION TOUR.

has not felt there is deep sense and meaning in the
sound.

Harsh as was the Cumberland church invitation
to prayer, I attended the service, which was episcopal.
It was performed with great reverence, but the male
portion of the congregation, who bore as usual a very
small proportion to the female, conducted themselves
in a manner ill according with the ceremony. I may
have been unfortunate, but this remark applies to all
the male congregations I saw in the States. It ap-
peared to me there was a positive impossibility to
remain quiet. Legs and arms were thrown violently
about, and frequently I expected to see feet sur-
mounting pews. The almost universal use of fans,
with which every pew is provided, and which are
passed from hand to hand and freely used, has a very
disturbing effect.

In the afternoon I enjoyed a pleasant ramble In
the woods round Cumberland. The sketching tourist
will find numerous subjects for his pencil in the
neighbourhood. Let him, however, beware of rattle-
snakes, which swarm in the woods. A gentleman at
my hotel engaged in some engineering works told me
he had killed several enormous ones, and showed me
a pair of slippers made from the skin of a monster.
The country abounds with coal, which is brought

CUMBERLAND COAL. 245

down from the hil!-sides. Families are pe.aiitled to
cart as much of this fuel as they please for their own
consumption, by paying 50 cents a month. Analyses
of Cumberland coal show that it contains 82 per
cent, of carbon, which places it in the very highest
rank in the list of American coal.

I purposed proceeding to Washington by a train
due at Cumberland on Moiiday morning at eight
o'clock, and was in readiness with fourteen other
passengers at the proper time. An hour having
passed without any sign of th;. train, I inquired the
cause of the delay; but, as the telegraph was not in
working order, no certain answer could be given. It
was surmised that an accident had happened, and I
was told if the train did not arrive in another hour,
we should be sent on by a messenger train. Ten
arrived, but no train ; accordingly three cars and a
baggage-waggon were prepared for our conveyance.
The first car was set apart for the coloured portion
of our party, consisting of three women and two men-
slaves. The second car was allotted to gentlemen,
and the third and last to ladies. As we were fa-
voured by the companionship of only four of the latter,
no objection was made to all the gentlemen occupying
seats with them. Thus, the train was very light, the

R 3

246

A VACATION TOUR.

only heavy carriage being the baggage-waggon, whicli,
besides our luggage, contained a large quantity of ice
packed in sawdust.

As soon as we had taken our seats, the bell rang,
and we dashed off. In a few minutes the conductor
made his appearance ; guess'd we were very late in
starting, and guess'd, again, t'would be smartish
work to pull up the time. To effect this required
additional speed, which I had every reason to believe
could not be maintained without serious danger.
The conductor, however, was a determined man ; and
as he evidently attached little value to his own life,
it was not to oe expected his passengers would be
much cared for. The line, after leaving Cumberland,
follows the windings of the Potomac, describing sharp
curves which no English railway train could keep.
Round these the engine darted with rocket-like impe-
tuosity, the car in which we were seated swaying in a
manner I'endering it necessary to hold on. A more sig-
nificant hint of the impending catastrophe was given by
the fall of a ponderous lamp-glass on my head, with,
however, happily no worse result than inflicting a
rather smart blow. Presently another glass was
jerked out of its socket and precipitated into the lap
of a lady ; the oscillations of the car meanwhile in-
creasing in violence. Affairs now assumed a serious

RAILWAY ACCIDENT.

247

aspect; I felt certain we were on the eve of a smash.
Tills was the opinion of a gentl -man who had the care
of two ladio ; for he proceeded, witli a coohiess
deserving a better cause, to instruct us how to place
ourselves, laying great stress on the importance of
sitting diagonally, in order not to receive the shock
directly on the knees. We were also advised to hold
tlio backs of the seats before us. He strengthened
liis advice by assuring us he was experienced in rail-
way accidents, and added that, as there was far less
danger in tho middle than in the end car, it would be
prudrnt to change our seats at the next station.
During this trying time the conduct of the ladies was
admirable, and when their courage was far more
severely tested, they exhibited equal fortitude. For,
as we expected, an accident did occur, the results of
which, had we retained our seats in the last car, would
have been in all probability most disastrous. In vain
was the conductor urged to slacken the excessive
speed. With blind, if not wilful recklessness, it was
maintained ; and at length, when about six miles from
the station where we had changed our places, a
terrific crash, the crushing noise of which rang in my
ears for days, and a series of dislocatory heavings
and collisions, terminating in deathlike silence and
the overthrow of the car which we occupied, gave

B 4

248

A VACATION TOUR.

certain evidence that we had gone off the line. I
have no distinct recollection how I crawled out of
the car, for I was half stunned; but I remember
being highly delighted when I found my limbs
sound. On looking round, the spectacle was extra-
ordinary. With the exception of about half the
middle car and engine, there was scarcely a portion
of the train that was not more or less broken. The
wheels were whirled to great distances, and the rails
for the length of many yards either wholly wrenched
from the sleepers or converted into snake-heads. The
poor slaves were considerably bruised ; and the
baggage-waggon presented a curious mixture of
portmanteaus, bags, boxes, and ice. The nature of the
accident was precisely as we had anticipated; the
excessive speed at which we had been going,
combined with defective rails, threw us off a sharp
curve, on one side of which was a precipice dipping
into the Potomar, and on the other a vertical face of
rock, against which the cars had been thrown.

I confess, when I saw the state of things, I was
extremely indignant, for, by the wilful conduct of the
conductor, we had not only been placed in imminent
peril of our lives, but had every prospect of being
detained^ several hours. But when, with that social
feeling engendered by misfortune, I spoke in strong

ifWi 'f-;|;

cle was extra-

AMERICAN INDIFFERENCE TO ACCIDENTS. 249

terms of him to my fellow-passengers, urging that
we ought to report him to the directors of the line
I found my feelings were not only unshared, but!
with one exception, all rather approved than other-
wise his exertions to get us on. In short, I was
so entirely unsupported, that I saw the prudent
course was to hold my tongue, though I determined
not to let the matter drop. The exceptional case to
^vlHch I allude, was a gentleman who, as soon as he
had extricated himself from the ruined cars, sought
tlie shade of a sumach-tree, and, lighting a cl^ar
smoked with an apparent philosophical indifference to
his fate. He was an Englishman, settled for some
years m Wisconsin, to which State he had gone to
enjoy the sporting it affords ; and as he had experi-
enced numerous railway accidents, nearly all of which
resulted from the carelessness of officiafs, he was not
disposed to be lenient in his judgment on the present
occasion. But, as he said, accidents, whether on
railways or in steam-boats, are thought so little of in ■
America, it is useless to remonstrate ; certainly the
behaviour of our party confirmed his words. As
It was evident we should have to remain many hours
at the scene of the accident, the negro who acted as
water-purveyor to the train, was despatched to foracre
among the neighbouring farm-houses. Presently he

250

A VACATIOX TOUR.

returnecl with a large basket filled with hams, fowls,
delicious bread, butter, and various fruit preserves.
Selecting a locality shaded hy a cluster of gaudy
sumach-trees, and within a few feet of the clear
Potomac, we set up a rude table and seats, con-
structed from the disjecta memhra of the cars, and I
aui certain, had any one seen our impromptu pic-nic,
he would not have supposed we were a set of
wrecked passengers who had just escaped deadly
periL The ladies, who had exhibited a stern stoicism
worthy of their country, cast aside the frigidity of
manners characterising their sex at table dlwte re-
loiions, and aided greatly, by their conversation and
vivacity, in causing us to forget our mishap. One
went so far as to indulge in flashes of wit, and what
were, doubtless, thought clever repartees. A gen-
tleman observing, if he were a fish he would go ahead,
as the river was so near, the lady in question de-
clared, for her part, she would rather be a Jonah, if
the Potomac would obligingly furnish a whale, as
she would then go ahead without any trouble.

It was fortunate we had an abundance of ice
to cool our water and provisions, for the sun was
scorching. During our repast, which was prolonged
pour passer le temps, the poor slaves sat apart,
unheeded by all but myself. It would, indeed,

IMPROMnU PIC-NIC.

251

iiave given me great satisfaction to have Iiacl it in
my power to gather them witl. i our circle ; but
this I knew was impossible, for there were slave-
owners among our party, who gave unequivocal tes-
timony of their feelings for their black brethren. I
succeeded, however, in causing our party to break
up sooner than it would otherwise have done, in
order that the slaves might have the remains of our
repast, fortunately sufficiently ample to satisfy their
wants.

The reader, who may have had practical experience
of the solicitude shown to passengers by railway
officials in England on the occasion of an accident,
will probably be as surprised to hear, as I was to
find, that no attempts were made to send us forward.
A camel-engine was despatched from the nearest
station to remove our cars from the line, which they
effectually blocked. This it did in a very summary
manner; but, when the line was clear, we had still
to wait the arrival of the train from Baltimore, in
cars detached from which we were to be forwarded.
Under the circumstances, it was fortunate our abid-
ing-place presented many features of great natural
beauty ; for the Potomac waters a lovely country.

I spent some time examining the rails over which
we had passed. They were worn in many places to

252

A VACATION TOUR.

a mere ribbon by the crushing weight of the huge
camel-engines employed to draw coal-trains. It was
no longer surprising we had gone oflf the line ; the
wonder was how we had kept on so long. The con-
ductor, indeed, admitted they did get ott' the rails
pretty frequently; but added they rarely killed
people.

At length, after a detention of five hours, we re-
sumed our journey ; and, as it was no longer possible
to pull up the lost time, our speed was not excessive.
The wretched state of the line kept us in a continual
state of apprehension ; but we fortunately reached
Harper's Ferry without further accident. Here the
beauties of the Potomac centre, forming a scene
which Jefferson declared worth going across the
Atlantic to see, as being " one of the most stupendous
in nature."

The main features consist in the confluence of the
Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, which pass through
a gorge in the Blue Ridge Mountains, here upwards
of 1200 feet high. In the distance, looking up the
river, the mountains gradually blend their wooded
summits, and, glancing outward, the country spreads
in a soft, rich, cultivated landscape; — this is the viev;
so highly praised by Jefferson. There was happily
sufficient light to see it while the train stopped, but

RELAY HOUSE.

253

the rest of my journey to Relay House was performed
.n '..e dark. Had all gone well I sl.ould have
r-.ched Washington in the evening; as it was, in
c nsequence of the accident, and being obliged to lie
-.y at sulings to allow trains to pass, I did not get to
•telay House until two hours after nndnight,_of
course too late for the Washington trains. With some
difficulty I obtained entrance into the hotel, where I
was glad to rest after a long day of more than usual
fat,g„e and excitement. The following morning I took
a tram after breakfast to Washington. The country
IS picturesque, but not being favourable for acri-
cuiture, the curious spectacle of large tracts of land
bnsthng with stumps meets the eye to the verge of
the capital. When liberated from the ears, I fell into
the hands, or arms rather, of a ravenous host of hotel
touters and cabmen, whose conduct did not give me
a very favourable idea of the police regulations of
the United States metropolis. At length I was
rescued by the agent of the hotel to which I pur-
posed going, and, after a long drive through sandy
streets, I came to a pause for some days in the Marble
House.

254

A VACATION TOUR.

CHAP. X.

THE MARBLE HOUSE. — INTERVIEW WITH EDITOR OF
STAR NEWSPAPER. — PRESS MORALITV. — THE CA-
PITOL. — ROME. — POLITICAL SITUATION OF WASHING-
TON. — HOUSES OF LEGISLATURE. — THE BALD EAGLE.
— PLAGUE OF aNTS. — PATENT OFFICE. — MUSEUM. —
TANNED NEGRO SKIN. — FRANKLIn'S PRINTING PRESS.

HAIR OF PRESIDENTS. — STATE-PAPER OFFICE. —

OBSERVATORY. — COAST SURVEY. — INSTRUMENTS. —
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. — GUTTA-1 _ ,HA STEREO-
TYPE PRINTING. — THE PRESIDENT. — COURTEOUS RE-
CEPTION. — REPUBLICAN SERVANTS. — AHSIT TO MOUNT
VERNON. — ALEXANDRIA. — FORT WASHINGTON. — WASH-
INGTON'S TOMB. — DISGRACEFUL CONDITION OF MOUNT
VERNON. — DINNER PARTY. — MEETING OP KNOW-
NOTHINGS. — WASHINGTON AND SECRET SOCIETIES. —

NATIONAL MONUMENT. SLAVES. — NEGRO BALL. —

LEAVE WASHINGTON.

I HAD numerous Introductions to parties in Washing-
ton ; but, before delivering them, or satisfying my
curiosity in seeing the city, I wrote an account of the
railway accident, with the view of having it pub-
lished in the leading Washington paper. When I
had finished my letter, I went to the bar of the hotel,
and requested the gentleman in the office to give me
the name of the principal journal. He declared

EDITOR OF THE STAR. 255

tlie Stew to be the chief, and enjoying tlie largest
cu'culation. Accordingly, informing myself of the
locale of that journal, I set off with my letter.
On reaching the office, I handed the communication
to a person in attendance, requesting he would pre-
sent my compliments to the editor, and ask him to
publish the letter. I was on the point of going away,
when I was desired to wait a few minutesr Pre-
sently an individual in the cool costume of shirt-
sleeves and open collar entered from an inner room,
with my letter in his hand, and, announcing himself
as The Editor, demanded whether I desired to
have the communication published in the Star. On
answering in the affirmative, I was not a little asto-
nished by being informed I should have to pay for the
insertion, as they ahxays expected payment for pub-
lislung such communications. This was so entirely
opposed to my idea of what was right, that I imme-
diately declared I would not pay a cent ; a.id, more-
over, having a vivid idea of the independent and
honourable conduct of the English press, which is
always willing and anxious to make abuses public,
with the view to their correction, I expressed mv
opinion that it would only be a public benefit to
publish my letter, which, as it bore my signature,
could not implicate the paper. Upon this the editor
re-pcrused the document.

256

A VACATION TOUR.

He did not deny it deserved publication, — that the
railway was insecure, — that the public should be
made aware of the fact, — but it was their custom to be
paid for inserting such articles ; — a gentleman had
paid handsomely for the insertion of a letter, very si-
milar to my own, concerning another railway accident
the week before, — in short, payment must be made.
More than once I was tempted to declare my country,
and tell the sordid editor how differently we ma-
naged such matters in England ; but I refrained, and
contented myself by sturdily resisting payment, at
the same time demanding the return of my letter.
" I am not a citizen of AYashington," I said ; " but
there are gentlemen here who will, I have no doubt,
procure the admission of my complaint in some other
paper ; and, therefore, be so good as to let me have
it." At these words the editor's tone changed ; and,
after another futile attempt to extort money, he de-
clared he would for once depart from the established
rule, and print my letter without fee or reward- I
bowed, and left the office. The next day my
communication appeared, with this tail-piece : —

We shall remark, in reference to the above, that ice
learn the railroad company are using Iheir best ex-
ertions to have the road in the best possible condif'nn.
The repairs needed icill, no doubt, be speedily maae. -
Ed. Star."

PRESS MORALITY.

257

This little transaction did not, I confess, impress
me with verj exalted ideas of the American press.

ihe Star, though the government organ, and en-
J0)ung the largest circulation, is, as I was informed
r^-^t the most respectable Washington paper. Its
^ank and position, however, are such as to astonish
me that its conductors should resort to such wretched
modes of gaining money as I have described. Nu-
mcrous gentlemen of high standing, to whom I told
tiie story, assured me the editors of other paper,
would not have acted in this manner. I hope iioi •
and I am sorry there is even one editor who has so
low an estimate of his calling.

^ly first sight-seeing act in Washington was to
ascend the Capitol, from the summit of which the
<^^^^ of - magnificent distances " is seen to great ad-
vantage. Moore's lines on this meti. polls, written
JiaJt a century ago, hold good now :-

" This fumed metropolis, where Fancy ,,ees
Siinares in morasses, obelisks in trees

.;es

Which travelling fools and gazetteers adorn,
With shrines unbuilt and heroes yet -.nborn.'"

i^or, with the exception of the heart of the city
traversed by the great arteiy Pennsylvania
Avenue, which is lined by fine blocks of public and

258

A. VACATION TOUR.

private buildings, the greater portion consists of
streets made up of houses alternating with groves,
which, as the eve follows their shadowy outline, are
swallowed up in the forest.

Bearing in mind the ambitious prognostications
entertained by the founders of Washington, originally
called Rome, — Goose Creek having been at the
same time raised to the dignity of The Tiber, — the
Federal metropolis must be considered a signal
failure ; for while almost every other town and city
in the States has been and is increasing in a
manner setting all calculations at defiance, the
population of Washington still remains beneath that
of fourth-rate towns, and her commerce is scarcely
worth mentioning.

Had the extraordinary growth of the States been
imagined, it is probable a more western locality
would have been selected for the seat of government.
My brother, who may be said to have been present
at the birth of the city, as it was laid out in 1792
and he visited it in 1795, observes with respect to
the site : — '* In the choice of the spot there were two
principal considerations : first, that it should be as
central as possible, in respect to every State in the
Union ; secondly, that it should be advantageously
situated for commerce, without which it could not he

POLITICAL SITUATION OF WASHINGTON. 259

expected that the city would ever be distinguislied
for size or for splendour ; and it was to be supposed
that the people of the United States would be
desirous of having the metropolis :.f the countrj as
magnificent as it possibly could be. These two
essential points are most happily combined in the spot
which has been chosen." *

When, in antagonism to these flourishing com-
mercial prospects, the statistics of Cincinnati then
undreamt of, are examined, we cannot f\xil to be
struck by the short-sightedness of the projectors of
'Wp'sl'ington.

A X locality for government, it, however, enjoys
a. stages possessed by no other city in the States
being in the neutral district of Columbia, which, by
an act of Congress, possesses no political privilecres,
and therefore cannot be regarded with jealousy^by
any State. That discord would result from the
establishment of the legislature in any State city, is
evident by antecedents. My brother observes •-
" Shortly after the close of the American war
considerable numbers of the Pennsylvanian line, or
of the militia with arms in their hands, surrounded
the hall in which Congress was assembled at Phila-

* Travels, Letter IV.
s 2

260

A VACATIOX TOUR.

(lelphia, and with vehement menaces insisted upon
immediate appropriations of money being made to
discharge the large arrears due to them for their past
services. The members, alarmed at such an outrage,
resolved to quit a State in which they met with
insult instead of protection, and quickly adjourned
to New York, where the session was terminated. A
short time afterwards, the propriety w^as strongly
urged in Congress of fixing on some place for the meet-
ins of the legislature, and for the seat of the General
Government, wdiich should be subject to the laws and
regulations of the Congress alone, in order that the
members in future might not have to depend for their
personal safety, and for their freedom of deliberation,
upon the good or bad policy of any individual State.
This idea of making the place which should be
chosen for the meeting of the legislature independent
of the particular State to which it might belong, was
further corroborated by the following argument : —
That, as the several States in the Union were in
some degree rivals to each other, although connected
together by certain ties, if any one of these was fixed
upon for the seat of the General Government in pre-
ference, and thus raised to a state of pre-eminence, it
might perhaps be the occasion of great jealousy
amongst the others. Every person was convinced

THE CAPITOL.

261

of the expediency of preserving the union of the
States entire; it was apparent therefore, tliat the
greatest precautions ought to be taken to remove
every source of jealousy from amongst them, which
might tend, thougli remotely, to produce a separa-
tion. In fine, it was absolutely necessary that the
seat of Government should be made permanent, as
the removal of the public offices and archives from
place to place could not but be attended with many
and very great inconveniences."*

If Washington were in keeping with the Capitol,
it would indeed be a magnificent city. This building,
constructed of white marble, with its imposing
fa9ade and immense wings, for these are nearly
completed, is a remarkably fine object. With a
liberality worthy of European imitation, the visitor
is allowed to ramble freely through the interior ; and
although Congress was not sitting, the Houses of
Legislature were open. These are on the east and
west of the Rotunda The House of Representatives,
which is much larger than the Senate Chamber, is
also more handsomely decorated, the ubiquitous
American eagle figuring largely in gilt effigies. By
the way, Franklin was right in his objections to this

* Letter lY.

8 3

262

A VACATION TOUR.

bird, which, being the bald eagle, is not an honour-
able emblem of i^.merica. In one of his letters he
observes : — " I wish the bald eagle had not been
chosen as the representative of our country ; he is a
bird of bad moral character; he does not get his
living honestly ; you may see him perched on some
dead tree, where, too lazy to fish for himself, he
watches the labour of the fishing-hawk ; and when
that diligent bird has at length taken a fish, and is
bearing it to his nest for the support of his mate and
young ones, the bald eagle pursues and takes it from
him. With all this injustice, he is never in good
case ; but, like those among men who live by sharp-
ing and robbing, he is generally very poor, and often
very lousy. Besides, he is a rank coward ; the little
king-bird, not bigger than a sparrow, attacks him
boldly and drives him out of the district. I am, on
this account, not displeased that the figure is not
known as a bald eagle, but looks more like a turkey.
For, in truth, the turkey is in comparison a more
respectable bird, and withal a true original native of

America He is besides (though a little vain and

silly, it is true, but not the worse emblem for that) a
bird of courage, and would not hesitate to attack a
grenadier of the British guards, who should presume
to invade his farm-yard with a red coat on."

COLOSSAL FIGURE OF WASHINGTON. 263

The original design of placing an equestrian
statue of Washington near the Capitol lias been
abandoned, and a colossal seated figure substituted.
The work is by Greenough, who has erred by repre-
senting the hero in the half-naked garb of a Roman
general, with his right arm extended in the direction
of the Patent Office. This attitude led a witty
member of the United States Legislature to observe,
that Washington doubtless points to that building
because it contains his uniform, which he very
naturally desires to put on.

In the cool of the evening I delivered a few letters
of introduction, and then strolled down to the Potomac,
ill whose radiant wave

" The dying sun prepared his golden grave."

The view of this river and of the country beyond, as
seen from the Navy Yard, is extremely beautiful,
fully realising Moore's praise, —

" Oh great Potomac ! oh you banks of shade !
You mighty scenes, in Nature's morning made,
While still in rich magnificence of prime,
Slie poured her wonders, lavishly sublime."

I was somewhat startled when, on sitting down in my
room to write before going to bed, I found my port-

S 4

204

A VACATION TOUR.

li^:

folio literally covered by inmimcrabl'.' tiny red ants.
Further examination showed that these animals had
taken possession of every available spot. In mv
alarm at this plague of insects, I rushed down stairs,
and begged to have another room. My wish was
immediately gratified, but the change was not pro-
ductive of any benefit. The little insects were fully
as numerous in my new apartment ; and it seems the
entire city of Washington sufll'rs under a formific
plague. Happily, however, the ants are not of a
stinging species.

On the following morning, I found my letters had
called forth many friends, who, with the usual kind-
ness characteristic of Americans, were anxious to
make uiy abode in Washington pleasant and instruc-
tive. Accompanied by two gentlemen connected
with government, I visited the Patent Office, a hand-
some white marble building, resembling the Par-
thenon, having a frontage of 413 feet, with a depth
of 280. Besides various offices for the transaction
of " patent " business, large rooms are appropriated
to the reception of models, now amounting to nearly
25,000, arranged in glass-cases. The number of
applications for patents has greatly increased during
late years. In 1842, 761 were filed; in 1852, they
had risen to 2639. These figures show the inventive

PATENT OFrrcE.

26J

genius of America; and the multitude of "notions"
in the sliape of models of flying machines, and otiier
possible and impossible mechanical adaptations for
locomotive purposes, are convincing proofs of
Jonathan's desire to economise time. The greater
portion of these are consigned to the basement,
Avherc they are stowed in < ses, without any attempt
at arrangement. This, perhaps, is of- little conse-
quence ; but it is to be regretted that no catalogue
exists of the models — in many instances highly intc-
sting and instructive-preserved in theuppor rooms,
illustrating inventions for v.liich patents have been
granted. The number of patents issued is always
less than the applications,— the returns being 517
i^atents granted in 1842 out of 761 applicatioirs, and
1020 in 1852 out of 2639 applications. Of these,
more than ten per cent, were for locomotive and en-
gineering inventions. It is worthy of remark, that
ninety per cent, of the patents were taken out by the
Free States. An original inventor only is entitled
to apply for a patent ; the introducer of an invention
ha. no claim whatever. The fees payable by a
citizen amount to 6/. These are increased in thf;
case of all foreigners, not natives of Great Britain or
Ireland, to 63Z., and to a native of these islands to
105/. This exorbitant increase appears the more

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266

A VACATION TOUR.

unjust, as a citizen of the United States, applying for
a patent in England, stands on an equality \vith
British subjects.

The rooms above the Patent Office are devoted to
a museum, containing numerous articles of consider-
able interest. The curator, Mr. Verdon, has pre-
pared a catalogue of the contents, but government
will not be «t the expense of printing it. This is
short-sighted parsimony, as there are many objects of
high scientific interest, including the natural history
collections resulting from Commander Wilkes' ex-
ploring expedition, and that lately returned from
Japan.

Englishmen will naturally look with interest at
the original " Declaration of Independence," which is
appropriately preserved in a glass case. This his-
torical document, undoubtedly one of the most im-
portant in the world, is written on a large sheet of
vellum, and signed by the fifty-six representatives of
the original thirteen States. The autograph of
sturdy John Hancock appears boldly at the head of
his republican brethren. In the same case are
various relics of Washington. These consist princi-
pally of uniforms and other articles of dress, and
bespeak the simplicity of the man. Indeed, the
only courtly relic is a panel of his official carriage.

WASHINGTON MUSEUM. 267

covered with groups of Cupids, beautifully painted
by Cipriani.

In the same case are numerous presents made to
American ministers by foreign powers, which, as
their acceptance is unconstitutional, are preserved
here. Among them icere several jewels of great
value, which a clever thief succeeded in abstracting
a few years ago, and which may now be shedding
their lustre in European ball-rooms ; for the articles
were never recovered.

Near this case, and not far from the " Declaration
of Independence," I observed the tanned skin of an
African. Is this exhibited to show the use to which
the animal may be put ? or, as the leather is ex-
tremely thick, to illustrate the doctrine held by some
slave-owners with respect to the corporal punishment
of their slaves ?

I examined, with great interest, the old worm-
eaten printing-press at which Franklin worked when
a journeyman-printer in London. It is enclosed in
a large glass case, which Mr. Verdon kindly opened.
An inscription records, that when Franklin returned "
to England in 1768, as agent to Massachusetts, forty-
three years subsequent to his residence in London,
he visited Mr. Watts' printing establishment in Great
Wild Street, and, going up to the press in question.

268

A VACATION TOUR.

addressed the men wlio were working at it : — " Come,
my friends, \\'c will drink together ; it is now forty
years since 1 worked like you at this press as a jour-
neyman-printer.'* Franklin then sent for a gallon
of porter, and drank with them " Success to Printing."

Before leaving the museum, my attention was
drawn to a frame containing portions of the hair of
all the Presidents of the United States, with their
autographs. The absence of white, or even grey,
hair among these relics is remarkable. Although
this museum is still far behind those in large Euro-
pean cities, it is well worth visiting. I must say,
however, my pleasure was greatly destroyed by the
seas cf liquid filth which deform and befoul the
marble floor. Black men were, it is true, removing
the impurities caused by their white brethren ; but
it seemed an Augean task, never-ending ; for fresh
visitors produced fresh cataracts of abomination. In
this blot on the nation, may we not derive federal
from fa3dus, instead of foedus.

My new fi-iends took me to the State-Paper Office,
where I was introduced to the chief clerk, formerly
a judge*, who kindly showed me several interesting

* The retiring allowance to superannuated officers in the
United States is, generally speaking, so small that it is no un-
common circumstance to see judges acting as clerks.

STATE-rAPER OFFICE.—OBSERVATOIIY. 269

documents. Among these was the original draught
of the " Declaration of Independence," in Jefferson's
liandwriting, with various alterations, principally
modifying his sev rity of language : as, for example,
the ..ords "destroy us" being substituted for « de-
luge us with blood." I also saw the letters of tlie
unfortunate Major Andre, including the celebrated
document penned on the eve of execution, in which
he prays to be shot instead of hung. An early
number of the Pennsylvania Gazette is preserved,
with this curious advertisement: — '"Printed by B.
Franklin, who will give ready money for old rags,
and sells glazed, fulling, and bonnet pap /s."

From the State-Paper Office I went to the Ob-
servatory, where I had the pleasure of meeting
Lieut. Maury, director of the establishment, who
kindly conducted me over it. This was a most
agreeable and instructive visit. Lieut. Maury's
profound acquaintance with the physical sciences
generally is made apparent by the efficient condition
of the Observatory. The instruments are of the best
description, and all the recent scientific arrangements
for the instantaneous record of observations by
electric agency are adopted.

A few days prior to my visit, a new asteroid was
discovered by Mr. James Ferguson, assistant astro-

270

A VACATION TOUR.

nomer, to which the graceful name of EupKrosyne has
been given. This is the first new star added to the
family of asteroids by America, and is an honourable
memorial of the zeal of the officers of her national
Observatory.

It is much to be regretted, that the locality of the
Observatory, though favourable for astronomical
purposes, is most insalubrious, leing on the verge of
a vast marshy area, which, during the great heats of
summer, emits pestilential miasma, rendering resi-
dence in the Observatory highly prejudicial.

Officially connected with the Observatory, thouoh
in another part of the city, is the Coast Survey and
Chart Office, where, under the superintendence of
Lieut. Bache, the results of the admirable United
States Coast Survey are laid down. The execution
of the maps and charts is excellent, every pains
being taken to render the work as perfect as possible.
Here I saw the delicate instruments and apparatus
used in the marine meteorological observatic ^ com-
menced by the United States Government at the
recommendation of Lieut, Maury, and in which
European governments now co-operate.

It forms part of the duties of this office to con-
struct copies of the standard weights and measures.
Besides these, three very accurate balances, weigh-

SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 271

i"g from 50 lbs. down to the ten-thousandth of an
ounce, are supplied to the capital of everj State, at a
cost, for the three, of about 900?. Twenty-four
States have already been supplied. The workman-
ship IS of the highest order of excellence.

Among the new buildings, to which, however
Waslnngton is not indebted for architectural beauty
IS the Smithsonian Institution, whose ugly towers and
pinnacles are, unfortunately, very conspicuous. The
building is so tasteless as to call to remembrance
a Frenchman's observation on Fonthill, which edi-
fice, by the way, was loveliness itself compared to
the Smithsonian Institution : - - [Jn homme doit
avoir le diable au corps pour batir une maison
coinme 9a."

Not, however, satisfied by building an architectural
deformity, a party possessing considerable influence
are endeavouring to warp the sense of Mr. Smithson's
will, by which he bequeathed upwards of half a
million dollars to Congress « To found at Washing-
ton, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution,
an establishment for the increase and diffusion of
knowledge among men." Nothing can, apparently,
be simpler or plainer than those words. Yet it is
sought by the party in question to limit the expendi-
ture of the trust to local purposes ; such as foundincv

272

A VACATION TOUR.

a library, courses of lectures, &c. Smithson was a
practical man ; and, though his illegitimacy soured
his temper, his love for science was the pole-star of
his existence.* His great desire was, that the esta-
blishment he so munificently endowed should increase
knowledge, and diffuse that increase world-wide.
And any deviation from a liberal and comprehensive
interpretation of the terms of the bequest involves a
breach of trust.

It is due to Professor Henry, the present excellent
secretary of the Institution, to state, he is not a party
to any attempt even, to divert the funds from their
legitimate channel. The annual income at the
disposal of the trustees is about 6000^., which,
judiciously expended, may be made to diffuse much
knowledge among men. It has been well observed,
" Science is inseparably interwoven in all that give
power and dignity to a nation," and the United States
Government will find there is more honour to be
gained, and good to be effected, by carrying out the

* Hugh Smithson was the illegitimate son of Hugh, Duke of
Northumberland, and Elizabeth, niece of Charles, Duke of
•Dorset. He originally intended to leave his property to the
Royal Society ; but in consequence of the rejection of one of
his papers, he altered his v/ill in favour of his nephew, at whose
death the property was to revert to the United States, in trust
for the foundation of an institution bearing his name.

GUTTA-PERCHA STEREOTYPING. 273

wishes of Smithson, than by circumscribing his
reputation within the narrow limits of a library.

Hitherto the Institution has done good service by
publishing valuable scientific works, which, tlirough
the agency of the Koyal Society, have been exten-
sively circulated throughout Europe. Among other
mteresting matters I saw here Mr. Warner's inven-
tion of gutta-percha stereotype employed in carrying
out Professor Jewett's method for printing catalogues
by means of separate titles. « The titles of the books
beirg set up, a matrix is made therefrom, and a
stereotype plate cast in gutta-percha. This is sawn
into the number of titles of which it is composed,
and the alphabetising is accomplished by the simple
assortment and arrangement of those titles, which are
fixed together in the requisite pages. By this means
the books added to any library may be inserted in
their proper places, and an annual catalogue pub-
hshed at a comparatively small cost." The catalogue
of the Congress Library is printed in this manner.

If the growth of America has swelled the pride of
her people among nations, the republican simplicity
that marked the life of her early Presidents has under-
gone no change. The Chief Magistrate of the United
States, who has more power than many kings,— for
he has the absolute appointment to all public offices

274

A VACATION Tour.

at home and abroad,— is as accessible as a private
gentleman. I had no letter of introduction to him ;
but being assured none was necessary, I accompanied
a gentleman to White House, and after the mere
formality of sending in my card, was admitted to the
presence of General Franklin Pierce, who has the
honour of being President of the United States.

He received me with great kindness and affability,
and, after conversing for a quarter of an hour, hoped
to have the pleasure of seeing me again. Nor were
these unmeaning words, for when he found my stay
in Washington was limited, he sent me an invitation
to dine with him the following day en famille, when
I was introduced to Mrs. Pierce. On this occasion
I related the fact of my brother's acquaintance witli
Washington at Philadelphia in 1796, adding it
afforded me sincere pleasure to know his fourteenth
successor as President.

Although General Pierce is remarkable for his
afflibility in private life, he is not popular. He is an
excellent man of business. More than once he com-
plained of the tremendous labour of his office, which
is so great as to scarcely leave him a minute's leisure.
Some change in the duties, he said, must be made,
as no man can stand the work, even for four years.
" You can form no idea,*' he added, " of the number

THE PRESIDENT. 275

of volummous manuscript document, connected with
pubhc busmess wl,ich I l,ave to read." Suggesting
ba. ,nn.any cases this might be done by a secretary
e rephed.. " No. 'tis better to read and master even
tl.0 most lengthy documents, for then I am in a posi-
ton to cut a man short, if he is talking nonsense."
Tins adm,ss,on is significant of active participation
m the .usmess of the government.

The simplicity of the President's domestic arrange-
ments .s not in harmony with the style of the fu^U
ture and reception rooms. These are of palace-liko
."..gmficence; but in place of servants apparelled in
gaudy and rich liveries, Irishmen in very plain
ckt es are on duty. The familiar manner i„^vhich
hah-porter who is a Milesian, spoke of his master,
l..ghly diverting. As we were entering the
V 1" House, the Secretary of War, and two
senators engaged in the War Office, known to the

gemlemanwho accompanied me. passed out. "Are
«-e gomg to „ ,„ , „ ,^;, ^,^ ,^^^^^ ^ ^j^^

Faith, I don't know; but I was asLing master this
»o™ng. and indeed I think we're going to do some-
tog any how," was the answer; which, it must be
al owed, contrasts curiously with the dignified fri-
^yj^hehall-porter of even an English Cabinet

T 2

276

A VACATION TOUR.

I retain a very agreeable remembrance of General
Pierce's kindness, which was the more appreciated
as I was not recommended to his attention. It is
possible, however, that a paragraph which appeared
in the Washington papers respecting me, and which
gave me honours above my due, may have had some
effect in causing the President not to regard me
wholly in the light of a stranger.

It formed part of my plans to visit Mount
Vernon. This, during the summer and autumn, can
be easily accomplished by means of a small "^earner,
which runs to and from the Mount twice a week.
We set out at nine in the morning, and, steaming
down the Potomac, stopped at Alexandria to take in
passengers; and at Fort Washington, which is
charmingly situated, we were allowed half an
hour to ramble about the fort. In the course of my
explorations I came upon a huge snake, which I
had great trouble in killing. This fort is not gar-
risoned, and indeed is so little cared for that it is
fast falling to decay. At the expiration of half an
hour we were summoned on board by the ringing of
a bell, which brought our party, including several
pretty girls in evenirig dresses and sandalled shoes,
tripping down the hill-side at the great risk of
encountering snakes in the long grass. We arrived

VISIT TO MOUNT VEBNON. 277

at Mount Vernon at noon ; two paths lead through
a tangled wilderness to the house. One conducts ""to
Washington's tomb, which is the first object visited.
Whatever Americans may think and say respecting
this great man, it is evident his remains concern
them not; their resting-place is a disgrace to the
nation. On arriving at the little enclosure, within
which the tomb is situated, I saw a man busily
engaged removing the dust and dirt from the monu-
ment. He was an American, but fer so pained by
the state of the tomb that he Jiad preceded us,
hoping to remove the dirt before we arrived.

The house and grounds are equally neglected. A
letter procured me admittance to rooms not usually
shown ; but every place was in ruin. Adjoining the
house are a .et of small cabins in which Washington
kept his slaves. My brother relates : — « A person
was kept at Mount Vernon during Washington's
absence, whose business it was to attend to strangers,
who were not only handsomely entertained, but pro-
vided with beds." On a changd tout cela, and although
a descendant of Washington, bearing the same nam°e,
occupies the house, its appearance is forlorn and
desolate in the extreme. And yet it possesses great
natural advantages, being situated on an eminence

T 3

278

A VACATION TOUR.

commanding lovelj views of the Potomac and tiie
country beyond.

Here Washington hoped to find that repose of
which he stood so much in need; and, until the
exigencies of public affairs called him forth to preside
over the young Republic which he had so large a
share in creating, he found in his beloved Mount
Vernon a realisation of his day-dreams. Declining
pecuniary compensation for his military labours, he
was content to subside into a simple country-gentle-
man , and here we have a charming picture of his
new life, conveyed in a letter to La Fayette :— « At
length I am become a private citizen on the banks of
the Potomac; and under the shadow of my own vine
and my own fig-tree, free from the bustle of a camp,
and the busy scenes of public life, I am solacing
myself with those tranquil enjoyments of which the
soldier, who is ever in pursuit of fame, the states-
man, whose watchful days and sleepless nights arc
spent in devising schemes to promote the welfare of
his own, perhaps the ruin of other countries, as if
this globe was insufficient for us all, and the courtier,
who is always watching the countenance of his prince
in hopes of catching a gracious smile, can have very
little conception. I have not only retired from all
public employments, but I am retiring within myself,

WASHINGTON IN RETIREMENT. 279

and shall be able to view the solitary walk, and
tread the paths of private life, with a heartfelt satis-
faction. Envious of none, I am determined to be
pleased with all ; and this, my dear friend, being the
order of my march, I will move gently down the
stream of life, until I sleep with my fathers."

Acting in the spirit of these words, he applied
himself to the improvement of his estate, — reduced
wild lands to cultivated fields, — created lovely
gardens,— and, in short, made Mount Vernon a little
paradise. His solicitude respecting this place led,
indeed, to his death. Having ridden round his farms
on a very wet and cold day in December, a sore
throat resulted, from the effects of which he died in
the brief space of three days. With these facts
fresh in the memories of the people of the United
States, it is a reproach to them that this abode of
their illustrious Washington should be allowed to
deca-. It is proper, however, to state, that many
schemes have been proposed for purchasing the house
and estate, comprising 15,000 acres, with a view of
preserving it. The ladies of Virginia, as I heard,
contemplate forming a society to collect subscriptions
for the purchase; but, as it is expected Congress will
vote a sum to make it pubh'c property, private en-
terprise is arrested, and, in the meantime, the place

T 4

280

A VACATION TOUR.

is falling to ruins. The trees, however, flourish.
From these a handsome income is derived by the sale
of walking-sticks. A friend presented me with one
cut from a white cedar near Washington's tomb, for
which he paid a dollar.

I was invited by Mr. J. D. Andrews, Consul-
General of the Canadas, author of the valuable report
on the trade and commerce of British America and
the Northern Lakes, to meet several eminent Wash-
ington gentlemen at dinner, including the Acting
Secretary of State, the Attorney-General, Lieut.
Maury, Mr. Schoolcraft, &c. The conversation
turned principally on the struggle in the East be-
tween the Allies and Russian despotism ; and I was
glad to have so good an opportunity of expressing
my sorrow that any portion of the people or press of
the United States should, in any way, evince sym-
pathy with a power which has always had for its
great object the suppression of liberty and freedom
of opinion.*

On the evening preceding my departure from

* A telegraphic despatch from Washington, which appeared
in the New York Herald a few months ago, is a good specimen
of the news constantly foisted on the people of the United
States by a portion of the American press, with the evident
intention of turning the current of sympathy against the Alli-^d

MEETING OP KNOW-NOTHINGS. 281

Washington, there was a large meeting of the
Know-nothings opposite the City Hall. They
made use of the pillars supporting the portico to
suspend their flags, which bore devices and inscrip-
tions advocating their party views. The oratory was
extremely violent. No native-born American could,
It was urged, be true to his country who did not use
every means in his power to drive foreigners from all
situations. These sentiments were loudly applauded
by an auditory comprising about 2000 persons of
various classes. At the conclusion of each speech, a
band played a noisy air, and rockets were thrown
up. It v/as curious to hear these bursts of factious
intolerance in the city founded by Washington, who
was particularly inimical to all secret societies, which,
while proclaiming freedom, dishonour the sacred
name. "Secret societies," said that great man,
" were instituted by artful and designing members,'
purposely to sow among the people seeds of jealousy!
The treachery of a Catiline or a Borgia may be

Powers. In this precious document it is stated, that Baron
Meyeiulorf, the Russian Ambassador at Vienna, was instructed
to express to His Mnjesty the Czar the congratulations of the
Emperor of Austria upon the friendly feeling so generally
manifested by the people of the United States for his imperial
master's success.

282

A VACATION TOUR.

detected by a fortuiicate accident, and crushed in its
infancy ; but the demagogue, under his panoply of
falseliood and chicane, may gradually sap the foun-
dations of social order, and his country may be left
with no other recompense for the ruin he has
wrouglit, and the misery he has caused, than the
poor consolation of execrating his name." The
Know-notliings and other bodies would do well to
lay these words to heart ; for

" all the piebald polity that reigns
In free confusion o'er Columbia's plains"

must assuredly be a bar to social happiness. The
number of political associations in America is as ex-
traordinary as the strange names which they bear.
Here are a few of them: — Wild Cats, Woolly
Heads, Hunkers, Straight-out Whigs, Morrill
Whigs, Fusion Whigs, Anti-Fusion Whigs,
Fusion Democrats, Anti-Morrill Temperance De-
mocrats, Nebraska Wild-cat Democrats, Anti-
Nebraska Old-line Democrats, Free-Soilers, Hook
and Ladder Democrats, Dumb Democrats, &c. &c. ;
and each party erects a " platform " for their own
purposes.

A bold attempt is making at Washington to raise
a monument to its founder which shall surpass all

NATIONAL MONUMENT. 283

Others in tlic magnitude of its dimensions. Accord-
ing to tlie printed description it will be " the loftiest
monument on earth to a nation's greatest benefactor,"
nnd gives the following measurements .--Base of the
Pantlieon, 250 feet diameter; height, 100 feet •
height of the obelisk, 500 feet. The original plan
contemplated the erection of a vast Pantheon temple
surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington
30 feet high, standing in a chariot drawn by six
liorses, driven by Victory. But, as the funds drawn
from voluntary contributions are not equal to defray
the cost of this portion of the proposed structure, the
works are at present confined to the obelisk, which
has attained a height of 150 feet. It stands m the
centre of the mall opposite the President's house.
Various states, public bodies, and individuals, have
contributed blocks of stone bearing their names and
emblematic devices. It is intended that the entire
monument shall be cased with white marble. The
blocks, which are very large, are raised to the
summit by steam power.

I had now exhausted tlie catalogue of Washington
sights ; and although the kindness of many friends
desirous to extend their hospitality to me was a
temptation to prolong my stay, my waning holiday
forbade accepting their invitations, particularly as I

234

A VACATION TOUR.

determined to make an excursion into Virginia for
the purpose of seeing the slave-market at Richmond.
Wlien this became known, several gentlemen evinced
great anxiety to prevent me carrying this project
into effect. It was clear they did not wish me to see
the dark spot on their much-loved country. For,
though slavery exists at Washington, there is no
slave-market there ; and, indeed, the number of
slaves in the district of Columbia has been decreasino;
since 1820. In that year there were 6377 ; in 1830,
6119; in 1840, 4694; and in 1850,3687. These
numbers are inconsistent with the swarms of negroes
in the streets of Washington. But the majority are
free ; their number, at the census in 1850, amounted
to 10,059. They are a merry set of fellows, taking
especial delight in balls. Here is an invitation that
I received : —

"GRAND FANCY BALL.

*' The pleasure of your company is respectfully invited
to a Grand Fancy Bally to he given by John Dade,
at Page's large Bnck House at the foot of 7th Street,
on Tuesday next, Oct. 13. 1854.

"(permit secured.)

" Tickets, admitting a Lady and Gentleman, One Dollar.

Single Tickets, 50 cents.

*' Omnibuses 6^ cents each way,'^

NEGRO BALL.

285

I am sorry I can give no account of the sable
beauties who figured on tliis occasion; certainly,
had it been in my power, I would have assisted at
tlie ball ; but, before it came off, I was obliged to
leave Washington.

286

A VACATION TOUR.

CHAP. XI.

STICAM DOWN TIIK rOTOMA(\ — I.OSK LUGGAGE.— ACQDIA
CIJKKK. — AIIUIVE AT RICMMONi>. — SLAVKRY. — AUMOURY

— VIRGINIAN STATE GUARD. — JEFI-ERSON's CANNON

GORGEOUS SUNSET. — RECOVER LUGGAGE. — AFRICAN
CHURCH.— EXCELLENT SINGING.— PRESS OF NEGRESSES.

— AIHJLT IJArnSM OF SLAVES SLAVE MARKET.—

MODE OF SELLING SLAVES. — tJUADROON. — REAUTIFUL

CHILDREN. SLAVE ADVERTISEMENTS REFLECTIONS

ON SLAVERY. — DEPORTATION OF SLAVES. TOHACCO

FACTORY. — INCENDIARISM. — SLAVE LAROUR COTTON

FACTORIES. — AVHlTi: LABOUR. — RENDITION OF FUGITIVE

Si-AVES.— I'AUFERISM.- CAIMTOI HOUDON's STATUE OF

■WASHINGTON. — STATE PENITENTIARY. — THEATRE. —
RICHMOND HOTELS, PAST AND PRESENT. — LEAVE
RICHMOND.

I LEFT Waslungton at six in the morning by tlic
steainor for Acquia Creek, on tlie Potomac. Not
being well, I omitted the necessary precaution of
looking after my luggage. The consequence was
that, although it had been carried in the ba<i-»Ta(re
van from the hotel to the quay, and was labelled
liichmomi, the porter accompanying the van did not
put it on board. I mention this to show the
necessity of not trusting porters in the United
States.

LOSE LUGGAGE.

287

The sail down the Potomac, which is pictu-
resque, was diversified by a very abundant break-
fast; and the lively conversation of a charming girl,
wlio gave me reason to believe slie did not regret the
fate which brought us together for a brief period, as
she gave mo her card when we parted. Of course I
reciprocated the courtesy; but as our lives are cast in
different quarters of tlie globe, it is not very likely
we shall ever meet again.

At Acquia Creek a train was waiting to convey
us to Richmond, sixty miles distant, where we
arrived at two o'clock. The cars stopped in the
middle of a thronged street. On getting out I was
surrounded by a noisy set of oily and shining
negroes, clamouring in favour of the hotels which
they represented. I drove to the Exchange,
liglitcr in property than on any previous occasion,'
for I was luggageless. Though I had sent a letter
back by the steamer, directing my portmanteau to
be forwarded by Adams' Express (an admirable
establishment for the transmission of parcels through--
out America), I deemed it advisable to take the
additional precaution of sending a telegraphic mes-
sage; but on going to the office, I was informed the
telegraph was not in action, and would not be in
^Yorking order until the following day. This was

288

A VACATION TOUR.

my last experience of United States telegraphs, and
it must be admitted I was not fortunate in the
results.

My first inquiry was respecting the slave-market.
The landlord of the hotel looked upon this mart evi-
dently in the light of a place for the sale of quadru-
peds. The niggers, he said, were sold every morning,
excepting Sunday, at ten o'clock, in the lower part of
the town, and as this was Saturday, it was probable,
if I wanted to buy, I should find a good chain of
likely slaves at Monday's market. I at once dis-
abused his mind of any idea he might have formed
of me in connexion with slave-owning, stating I was
an Englishman, who had journeyed to Richmond for
the sole purpose of seeing the slave-market, " Ah
well, I guess," he replied, " you'll see plenty of
slaves without going there ; all the niggers in the
hotel are slaves, and all the work in Richmond is
done by slaves."

Among my letters of introduction, was one to the
editor of the Richmond Enquirer^ upon whom I
called. As soon as he had read the letter, he said,
" I find you have come here principally to see the
slave- market. Now I beg to assure you, I am very
desirous to make your visit to Richmond agreeable,
and I will do anything in my power to promote this

SLAVERY.

2S9

object ; but you must excuse my accompanying you
to the slave market. I went there once; and the
scenes I witnessed were so revolting, I resolved
n'^ver to visit it again." I mention this, because it
is conclusive evidence that even in the head-quarters
of slavery, its institutions liave strong opj)onents;
and when we find the editor of a paper thus frankly
expressing his opinion respecting the slave market in
his own town, we may safely assume he does not
stand alone. I confess the language held by my new
acquaintance took me by surprise, for I knew that
tlie Richmond press, with the honourable exception
of the Enquirer, strongly advocates slavery. One
journal, the Examiner, has gone so far as to not only
approve, but proclaim it to be a duty to shoot any
one attempting to rescue or conceal fugitive slaves,
who are regarded as no better than brute beasts; and
that I may not be deemed exaggerating, I request
attention to the following article from that paper,
headed

SLAVERY ETERNAL.

" It is all a hallucination to suppose that we are ever
going to get rid of African slavery ; or that it will ever
be desirable to do so. It is a thing that w- ,annot do
without ; that is righteous, profitable and i..fmanent, and
that belongs to southern society as inherently, intricately

200

A VACATION TOUR.

nnd durably as the white race itself. Yea, the white
rnco will itself emigrate from the southern states to
Africa, California, or Polynesia, sooner than the
African.

** Let us make up our minds therefore to put up wltii,
and make thenostof, the institution. Let us not bother
our brains about what l*rovidence intends to do v/ith our
negroes in the distant future, but glory in and profit to
the utmost by what He has done for hirn, in transplanting
him here, and petting him to work on our plantations.
Let the politicians and planters of the south, while
encouraging the "Baptists" and "Methodists," (and
other lenominations having a less number of votes), in
christianising the negro, keep their slaves at hard work,
under strict discipline, out of idleness and mischief, while
they li\e ; and when they come to die, instead of sendinj^
them oflT to Africa, or manumitting them to a life of
'freedom,' licentiousness and nuisance, will them o'.or
to their children, or direct them to be sold, when they
will be made to work hard, and be of service to their
masters and to the country. True philanthropy to the
negro begins, like charity, at home ; and if southern men
would act as if the canopy of heaven were inscribed with
a covenant in letters of fire, that the negro is here, and
he^s for ever ; is our property, and ours for ever ; is
never to be emancipated ; is to be kept hod at work and
in rigid subjection all his days, and is nfr;- tu go to
Africa, to Polynesia^ or to Yankee Land (far worse
than either), they would accomplish more good for the
race in five years, than they boast the institution itself to

VIRGINIAN STATE GUARD.

291

have accomplish«i(l in two centuries ; and cut up by tlie
roots a set of evils and fallacies, that threaten to drive
the white race a wanderer in the western wilderness,
sooner than Cuffee will ^o to preach the Gospel in
Guinea."

This 13 strong writing. The misfortune is, the
writer lias many disciples.

On leaving the anti-slavery editor, I called on
Captain Dimmock, to whom I had an introduction.
Tliis gentleman lives at the Armoury, and has the
honour of commanding the Virginian State Guard ;
which distinction, however. Is somewhat shorn of its
importance when I add, that the muster-roll of the
troop shows a force of only 84 men. The history
of this little army is curious. When Jefferson
was in power, he established a cannon-foundry at
Piiclimond ; at which two hundred pieces of ord-
nance were cast ; these were placed in the Armoury.
Their existence, however, instead of being a subject
of congratulation to the citizens, had an opposite
effect; for living amidst a large slave population, they
apprehended, in case of an insurrection, that the un-
protected cannon might be turned by the slaves against
their mnsrers. Accordingly the State Legislature re-
solved to establish a little standing army, whose chief
business should be to guard the cannon in the

V 2

1 lii:

292

A VACATION TOUR.

Armoury, and a sum is annually voted for the main-
tenance of the soldiers, who are officered by a captain
ana two lieutenants. These gentlemen occupy
quarters in the Armoury, charmingly situated in full
view of the James River, which flows over masses of
rock, forming a series of cataracts above the town.
Besides the cannon mentioned, there are six very
handsome brass twenty-four pounders, bearing the
French fleur tie lys, and a profusion of elegant sculp-
tured devices. They are mounted in the square,
commanding the town. Captain Dimmock was
ignorant of how possession had been obtained of
these beautiful pieces. The pay of the soldiers is
nine dollars a month, besides food and clothing ; the
uniform consists of a light blue tunic. I spent an
evening with Captain Dimmock, during the greater
part of which we sat on a balcony wreathed by gaudy
V^irf^inian creepers, while a profusion of other flowers
sent up a delicious fragrance from the garden
beneath. The air was soft and balmy — and the
setting sun painted the west with hues of intense
brilliancy. Never had I behold such colours, but I
was now in Virginia, which descends to the latitude
of 36°. Tea was handed by slaves, whose chiUlren
were frolicking in the square beneath. " You see,"
said the captain, " what a happy set of people these

RECOVER LUGGAGE.

293

are, cand yet ^ assure you I aLlior slavery. But
what are wc to do? When I came here from
Massachusetts, I did all in my power to obtain free
servants, but I failed, and now I am compelled to be
a slave-owner." These words, he added, would find
an echo among hundreds who are anxious to abolish
slavery, but know not how to set about it. I was
amused to find the captain and his lieutenants com-
bining the calling of millers with soldiering. Being
fiivourably situated, a stream of water has been
diverted through the Armoury, which is made to do
proiitabb duty in the shape of grinding corn for the
little army.

The traveller who has felt the misery of parting
company with his luggage— increased when far from
liome— will sympathise with my joy, when I beheld
a grinning " darkey " enter my room early on
Sunday morning, with my portmanteau and bag.
I had told him the night before to go early in
search of my things, slipping a quarter of a dollar at
the same time in his hand. This arrival was most
opportune, for although the landlord kindly promised
to add a day shirt and other articles to a night shirt
already lent, I infinitely preferred wearing my own
clothes. So I duly honoured the Sabbath, and after
a deh'ghtful bath, performed a very satisfactory

294

A VACATION TOUR.

toilet. Breakfast over, I sallied out for a stroll
before attending service in the African Church. The
streets swarmed with negroes of both sexes, dressed,
the men in wonderfully shaped garments, the women
in flauntintr colours. Had I entered Richmond on
Sunday morning, I should have supposed the entire
population to be bhick, for there were very few
whites to be seen. Presently, however, as the time
for divine worship drew near, the latter were more
conspicuous, and it was curious to witness how care-
ful the negroes were to give, and the whites to take,
the wall. This deference to their masters is required
by the State law.

At eleven I proceeded to the African Baptist
Cliurch. It is a plain brick building furnished Avitli
pews and galleries, capable of accommodating about
1500 persons. By some misunderstanding I found
myself in the gallery appropriated to the choir, con-
sisting of forty negroes. The men— gentlemen, I
was going to call them — and they would not disgrace
or dishonour the title— were dressed en grande toilette,
handsome black coats and trowscrs, white waistcoats,
and white ties; the women in silks and muslins
flounced en dernierc mode, of the gayest colours, ■ Ith
bonnets and mantles to match. They seemed, from
all points of view but one, fashionable ladies dressed

AFRICAN CONGREGATION.

295

for an horticultural fete. The exceptional case was
the front view ; which revealed a sable countenance
oily and shin'ig, turned up by a broad-brimmed
nose and ma sive lips. I perceived my presence
somewliut disconcerted them ; but they were too
courteous to desire me to remove to another gallery.
The service was commenced by an extempore prayer
from one of the congregation, uttered in a nasal tone,
in which the words " Please, oh Lord, hab mercy on
de poor niggers" frequently occurred. As the
negro proceeded, his eloquence and fervour increased,
eliciting sympathy from the congregation, who ac-
companied every burst of enthusiasm by loud ejacu-
lations and groans. The prayer was followed by a
liymn, in which all the congregation joined. To this
succeeded another prayer from a different party, and
then a white minister ascended the pulpit, and
announced that the choir would sing; upon this
tliose around me stood up, and taking the time from
tlicir leader, sang from music books in a manner
which showed them to be proficients in vocal melody.
The voices were exquisitely sweet, well deserving
the praise which I heard accorded to them. The
hymn selected concludeu with these words and
direction, —

u 4

296 A VACATION TOUR.

*' Give the band of friendship ere we part, "
May heaven now embahn it in each heart."

liise, and clasp hands.

Acting on this, the large congregation, for the church
was full, rose and clasped each other's hands. On
the conclusion of the hymn, the minister read a
portion of the New Testament, and taking it for his
text, preached an excellent sermon ; practical and in
every way suitable to the position of his hearers.
At its conclusion, he admonished them to be more
punctual in their attendance, adding, " I shall not be
able to address you this afternoon, having engacre-
ments elsewhere ; but were I to tell you the name of
the gentleman who will officiate in my place, you
would be extremely sorry if you missed hearing him;
so I hope you will all be here."

The service concluded with another hymn sung by
the choir. When it was over, 1 expressed my appre-
hension to the negro next me that I had inconvenienced
them, adding that I was a stranger and an English-
man ; but he assured me that although the gallery in
which 1 sat was reserved for the choir, they were
delighted to see Englishmen anywhere. In answer
to some questions respecting the singing, I was told
they were permitted to practise frequently. It was
interesting to witness the cordial greetings between

ADULT BAPTISM OF SLAVES. 297

the members of this swarthy congregation. Care
seemed unknown, and certainly no one could pro-
nounce these slaves to be otherwise than happy.
Here was the bright side of the picture. But before
we regard it under another aspect, I must give a
sketch of an interesting sight which I witnessed in
the afternoon. I was on my way to the Armoury,
^vhen I met Captain Dimmock. " You are fortu-
iiate," he observed, « fcr the ceremony of an adult
negro baptism has just commenced." Proceeding
towards the James River, we soon fell in with
crowds of negroes going to the scene of attraction ;
and on coming witliin sight of the water, we beheld
the banks covered by thousands of blacks of both
sexes. A small wooden house near the river con-
tained numerous candidates for baptismal regene-
ration, clad in linen trousers, and a shirt. They
were led into the stream, and received by the offi-
ciating minister and his assistants, who, after a short
prayer, plunged them deep beneath the water.
Before immersion the assembled multitude sang at
the top of their voices spirit-stirring hymns. The
sudden transition from the swelling and not inhar-
monious chorus to profound silence, had a curious
effect ; for the minister, whom I recognised as tho
preacher I lieard in the morning,—.

^^^ A VACATION TOUR.

" Stretch'd his arms and call'd

Across the tumult, and the tumult fell."

Every eye was on liim, and the moment a nearo
emerged from the water, a mighty cry arose from
the excited multitude, welcoming a brotlier's advent
into their fold. It was a touching spectacle. For
all present were firmly persuaded salvation attended
the ceremony, which in spirit at least lifted the souls
of these poor bondsmen above the power of oppres-
sion.

Not, assuredly, greater is the contrast between a
fiiir landscape illumined by brilliant summer sun-
shine, and steeped in the purple gloom of an im-
pending thunder-storm, than that presented by the
baptismal scene on the banks of the James River and
the Richmond slave market.

I visited this place with mingled feelings of sad-
ness and curiosity. The market consists of three
human shambles, situated in the lower part of the
town, far from the dwellings of the whites, easily
distinguished by red flags over the entrances, to
which are attached particulars of the slaves for sale.
The number greatly varies, sometimes amounting
to about fifty, and occasionally falling to one or
two. On the day of my visit, fourteen male, and
seven female " Ukelij'' slaves, with their children, were

SLAVE MARKET.

299

advertised to be sold by auction. The first establish-
ment I entered, consisted of a large barn-like room,
about forty feet square, furnished ^Yith rude wooden
benches and chairs ; a platform for the display of the
human goods ; a desk, and a screen across the upper
end of the room. The floor, walls, and indeed every
object, were befouled by tobacco juice. About a
score of ill-looking fellows were present, engaged,
with scarcely an exception, in perpetual chewing and
whittling. The benches, chairs, and all the wood-
work, exhibited abundant marks how vigorously the
latter practice had been carried on. The pillars
were in many cases nearly severed. One man, who
had tilted his chair back, was whittling one of the
raised legs, with such energy of purpose, as to
speedily threaten the amputation of that most impor-
tant member of a chair's economy. By degrees
more people arrived. When about fifty were present,
tlie slaves were brought in from the neighbouring
jail, where they had been confined. There were
four men, and two girls. The former were imme-
diately led behind the screen, stripped stark naked,
and examined with great minuteness. Marks were
criticised with the knowing air assumed oy horse
dealers, and pronounced to be the results of flogging,
vermin, or scrofula. Little value was apparently

300

A VACATION TOUR.

attached to the answers of the slaves, though con-
siderable pains were taken to ascertain their ages, (of
which, by the way, they were generally very igno-
rant,) and the cause of tlieir sale; with one exception,
none could assign any reason. The exceptional case
was a youth, who stated he was the slave of a
tobacco manufacturer, and that although his master
treated him well, the overseer was harsh and cruel,
and frequently beat him. In proof of this he exhi-
bited a scar on his shoulder. His master, he added,
had consented to allow him to be sold. The women
were more tenderly dealt with. Personal examination
was confined to the hands, arms, legs, bust, and teeth.
Searching questions were put respecting their age,
and whether they had children. If they replied in
the negative, their bosoms were generally handled in
a repulsive and disgusting manner. When sufficient
time had been given for the examination of the
slaves, the auctioneer left his desk, and desired his
assistant, who was a slave, to bring up the first lot.
This was a male negro about thirty years of af^e,
who had been working on a tobacco plantation. He
was ordered to ascend the platform, and the
auctioneer stood on a chair by his side. The assist-
ant now tucked up the slave's trousers, barod his
neck and breast, and the sale commenced. " Here,"

MODE OF SELLING SLAVES.

301

said the auctioneer, « is a likely young nirrger, used
to all sorts of farm work ; what will ye bid, gentle-
men? lie's worth a thousand dollars. Who'll bid ?
come, 500 dollars to begin. Thank ye sir; 500
dollars— 500 doH'r— doH'r-doH'r- doll'r "-(uttered
with bewildering rapidity), "550 doll'r — doll'r —
doll'r : 600, thank ye sir." Here the bidding hung
fire, and the auctioneer, after expatiating on the
good qualities of the lot, ordered him to be
walked up and down the room before the people,
who now amounted to about 200. During his
progress, he was frequently stopped by parties who
examined him. On returning to the platform, the
biddings were renewed with greater spirit, until they
reached 858 dollars, at which sum the man was sold.
The next lot — also a male, who stated he was worn
out, and unable to do good work, though apparently
under fifty years of age— sold for 630 dollars; the
third male, about thirty years old, who had been
wcrking in a plantation, for 940 dollars'; and the
fourth, the young man who was sold at his own re-
quest, for 750 dollars. In all these cases the same
process was gone through, each slave being trotted up
and down the room precisely like a horse. Now came
the women's turn. The first put up was a good-looking
girl, gaily-dressed, her hair adorned with ribbons,—

302

A VACATION TOUR.

who, according to her statement, was nnietecn years
old, and was skilful in the use of her needle. " Can
you make shirts?" was a question put to her by a
dozen men. " Yes," she replied, « and wash them
too." The auctioneer expatiated at great length on
the excellent qualities of this "prime lot," for which he
expected 1000 dollars at least. He obtained more—
the first bid was 500, and she was knocked down for
1005. The second woman, aged twenty-five, who had
been a domestic servant, realised only 700 dollars, on
account of some scars on her shoulders, which a man
near me was confident were produced by the whip.
As all the slaves present were now sold, I thought
business was over in this establishment; but just as the
last woman was led away, a mulatto entered the room
with another woman followed by two little children
about three and four years old, and carrying a third
still younger in her arms. These were the children
announced for sale. The circumstance of this woman,
or lot, as she and the children were called, beinf^
brought in alone, led me to suppose there was some
distinction between her and the preceding slaves.
In slavery none,— she and her children were slaves
like those just sold ; but in appearance the difference
was great. She was a remarkably handsome mu-
latto, and her children were nearly, if not fully, as

303

HANDSOME MULATTO.

wI.i.o .3 the fairest Americans. If any doubi

of .s lu.m.„ t,.affie, the case of this won.
vou d have determined m, j„dg„.e„t. Her stor, Z
'"'': t :™' "<" "-"■'•ed. and the man wh

p.— had ma.le her his mistress as well as si v^
-lied that she should be sold with /„> ehildre, '

Moreshewould not divulge; nor would she answT;
quesfons relative to her occupation. AH attenp
at extracting fiu- .. :„f„r,„,,.„„ ,^^ " '^^

-n;^. rerusa. to divulge ought of L:-^;;

:i Tn w^iitt;'? ""^ ^"^- -- --

wmcli ho. infant was reposing, her eves
flW re, and! sincere., believe, had a'tnifehTe

: f7"T ''' '™""' ■'-« '"-sod '•' in U,

iieaits of Iier tormentors. Followed hv i. .
>'"'; e-uhlren, who clung to herrlte ^^
-bs, shrinking from the ga.e of the rougl
opessed round them, she ascended the pfatfor,:

w et ::t"t, "'""'"'''"'' '"-^ •'-•-ess

VVhethei he dreaded a scene, or that he deemed it

iiad a fine young woman to offer with I,

o^-Hren. who would not be sold separate,:dd;::
" » ^«- yoars the boys would be fit for work. wC

304

A VACATION TOUR.

could lie say of her, whose heart's finest affections
were perhaps at that moment lacerated to satisfy the
greed of a man ? He set a high price on the woman
and her children, declaring he expected at least 2500
dollars for the lot. The first bid was 800 ; languid
biddings succeeded, until the amount reached 900
dollars. The woman was then ordered down, and
followed by her little children, was made to walk up
and down the room. On resuming her place on the
platform, the biddings became a little brisker ; but as
no eloquence on the part of the auctioneer could
raise them above 1100 dollars, the lot was with-
drawn. I was informed the woman alone would have
realised more than this amount, but there is a stronfr

aversion against purchasing white children.

It is unnecessary to carry the reader to the other
slave marts. I visited both, and saw slaves sold
under circumstances similar to those described. I
conversed with most of the slaves, a few expressed
great sorrow at leaving their late home and masters,
and gazed inquiringly on those who examined them
with the view of purchasing; but the majority
exhibited a dogged apathy, as if their hearts were
callous to all sensations. The spectacle I had
witnessed the previous day was, however, fresh in

Sr,AVK ADVKItTISEMEMS. 305

my remembrance; and I well know the black man

lias strong feelings.

Many masters, as I was informed, have a great dis-
I.ke to pass slaves whom they desire to sell through
the degrading ordeal of public auction. To avoid th^
they dispose of them by private contract, or provide
them with papers of sale, authorising them to sell
themselves, on the understanding that they bring
the price asked to their masters. Thus the business
transacted in the Richmond slave-market, does not
represent the total number of slaves sold. It falls
also far short of supplying the demand.

The newspapers contain numerous slave advertise-
ments, of which the following are specimens : _

"SLAVES WANTED.
" m are at all times purchadug shves, pa,jiug the
I'Vhest eash ^riees. Person, ^klung to sell uitl please
call at 243. Pratt Street. Communicathn, addressed

" B- L- & W. L. Campbell."

"WANTS NEGROES.
" The subscribers are at all times in the market
"^'"^ »fam, pairing the highest cash prices.

" J. M. Wilson.
" a N. Duke."

306

A VACATION TOUR.

"5000 NEGROES WANTED.

((

/ will pay the highest price in cash for 5000
negroes, with good titles, slaves for life or for a term of
years. Persons having slaves for sale, ivill please call
and see me, as I am always in the market with the
cash. « J. N. Denning,

" 18. South Trcderick Street.

Trees in front of the door.^^

Linked to these acV/ertisenients are others, headed
by little figures of slaves, representing them running
away, with bundles over their shoulders. Here are
a couple of examples : —

"TWO PIUNDRED nor,<^ Rg REWARD.

Ran aivay from the suosl. ler, th' negro man
* Ben Semmes.^ He is 5 feet 10 or 11 inches high, and
large in proportion, very black ; about 45 years of age.
No scars recollected. It is probable he will endeavour
to reach a free state. 1 will give the above reward if
taken out of the district of Columbia, but he must be
confined in jail, or brought home to me.

" W. R. Bowie."

IlKFr.ECTIONS OX SLAVKRV.

307

" TWENTY DOLLARS EEWARD.

" Ran away from tU subscriber, the negro boy
Charks {frequently caUs himself Howard), about 25
years of age, of black compU^on, eyes full and inclined

fe red; 5 feet 10 inches in Uu,ht; not heavily built,
butwell made, andstands erect; has a doum look, speaks
^lou, and whines a little; has lost all his upper front
teeth, and, from large broad scars on his hips, has
cnaently been severely whipped The above reward
.«« be paid for apprehending and confining him in any
lail, so that I get him again.

" J. F. Bkock."

1 could multiply these examples, but I desist. A
slavo-market, it has been well said, is a fiery appeal
to the finest feelings of our nature, needing „„
additional evidence to prove that slavery is an abomi-
nat.on in the sight of God and man. It is remark-
able that no one was more sensible of the extra-
ordmary anomaly of slavery in the United States
than Jefferson, who left these words on record : -

" What an incomprehensiole machine is man, who
can endure toil, famine, stripes, imprisonment, and
<leath itself, in vindication of his own liberty, and the
""t moment be deaf to ...ll those motives whose

X 2

308

A VACATION TOI'R.

power supported him through Iiis trial, while he
inflicts on his fellow-men a bondage, one hour of
which is fraught with more misery than ages of that
which he rose in rebellion to oppose ! But we must
await with patience the workings of an overruling
Providence, and hope that it is preparing the de-
liverance of these our suffering bretliren. When
the measure of their tears shall be full, — when their
groans shall have involved Heaven itself in darkness
— doubtless a God of justice will awaken to their
distrc^^, and, by diffusing light and liberality among
their oppressors, or at length by his exterminating
thunder, manifest his attention to the thinirs of this
world, and that they are not left to the guidance of a
blind fatality." This was written nearly half a
century ago, but the consummation so ardently
desired has not come to pass. Slavery is on the
increase. The 697,897 slaves in existence in the
States in 1790, have swelled to 3,204,313, the
number returned at tlie last census in 1850; and so
far from any measures being taken to wipe out tliis
national blot, we find the Southern States doing all
in their power to perpetuate the evil. The Governor
of Virginia, in his message to the Legislature, in
November, 1852, observes ; " Knowing the deep
interest that all feel in everything that affects the

RLFLECTIOJVS ON SLAVEKY. 309

lionour of tlie State or the interests of her people, I
have not failed to take particular notice of the
reported outrage recently committed by the civil
authorities in the city of New York, under the
colour of law, upon one of our citizens, when in
transitu with his property from this State to that of
Texas. If the facts warrant this report (which I
have no reason to doubt), it is a case without its
parallel in point of spirit ; and the consequence to
flow from the establishment of such a principle cannot
be foreseen "

This high magisterial protest against the invasion
of slave privileges shows that in Virginia at least
there seems to be no desire on the part of the Legis-
lature to effect any change in the laws affecting
-slavery, but rather a wish to make them more
binding. This may appear surprising when we
remember the part Virginia took in the great scene
of American Independence. But the principle of
energy which the northern colonies derived from the
nature of their church, founded in the very « dissi-
dence of dissent," the people of the South nourished,
as Burke judiciously observed, "in a still higher and
more stubborn degree, in consequence of being slave-
holders ! Freedom in such a case is not only an
enjoyment, but a kind of rank and privilege."

X 3

310

A VACATION TOUK.

While Jefferson wrote such damning words against
slavery, he made public his opinion of the manner in
which the deportation of slaves might be effected.
"I would," he says, "emancipate the after-born,
leaving them, on due compensation, with their
mothers until their services are worth their mainte-
nance, and then put them to industrious occupations,
until a proper age for deportation. This was the
result of my reflections on the subject five and forty
years ago, and I have never yet been able to conceive
uny other practicable plan,"

In 1825 a proposal was made that as soon as that
portion of the funded debt of the United States, for
the payment of which the public land was pledged,
should be paid off, the remaining public land should
be appropriated for the freeing of slaves by purchase.
This plan met with the approval of the eminent
Chief Justice Marshall, of Virginia, who pronounced
it to be excellent ; but it was not carried into effect.
It will only be by some grand comprehensive measure
of this kind, in which all the States shall contribute
their quota to the good work, that slavery can be
brought to a close. It is equally unprofitable and
ungenerous on the part of the Northern States, to
denounce slavery in terms of unmeasured condem-
nation, if they will not i)c<.'uniarily contribute to the

DErOKTATION OF SLAVES.

311

general emancipation of slaves. In the report of a
select committee of the House of Representatives of
tlie State of New York, presented to the Legislature
in 1849, this passage occurs:— "It is alike tlie
privilege and duty of every citizen to testify acrainst
wrong in whatever form it may present itself. °Shall
tlie thoughts of a man be stifled in this community on
a great moral question ? Is he to stand dumb in the
presence of what he may deem a great wrong,
because the expression of his resentment is offensive
or unpalatable ? The right is conceded that we may
sympatliise with the oppressed of other lands. We
are free to offer condolence to the broken-hearted
Poles; to send money and arms to the oppressed
Greeks; but we are forbidden to utter a word
against the oppression of three millions of our own
people. The North, with characteristic forbearance,
lias submitted to many wrongs, having their origin
in their effort to uphold and strengthen the institu-
tion of slavery. For slavery tlie Cherokees were
driven from, their homes in defiance of a solemn
treaty, and the faith of the nation violated before the
world. For slavery the sovereignty of New Jersey
was trampled under foot, to admit its advocates on
tlie floor of Congress. For slavery the sacred right
ol petition was denied and scoffed at. For shivery

A 4

312

A VACATION TOLK.

it was proposed that tlie mails sliauld be rifled and
the Post Office department of Government be con-
verted into a grand system of espionage. For
slavery the ambassador of a foreign state (Massa-
chusetts) was driven by the public officers of South
Carolina from her shores aud compelled to fly for
his life. For slavery Texa. was wrested from a
friendly nation ; and for slavery a bloody war was
waged against Mexico, that has caused the nation
many thousands of the lives of its citizens."

It would be a worthy and honourable sequence to
this eloquent remonstrance, to find the State of New
York voting in favour of an appropriation of a
portion of the many millions of dollars lying unem-
ployed in the public treasury for the deportation of
slaves. But in place of this nothing practicable is pro-
posed, and the traveller through the States only sees
a feverish partisanship upon the slave question which
threatens to break forth in all the horrors of civil
warfare. " The nation must be dismembered," says
a Boston paper. « Hell has no union with heaven ;
slavery and liberty do not coalesce. The sooner the
dissolution of the Union comes the better."

We must not forget, when writing or speaking on
this subject, that we can scarcely be said to come into
court with clean hands. In 1620 the English

TOBACCO FAC'JOUy.

313

colonists purchased twenty negroes which had been
brought into James River by a Dutch ship. This
was the first introduction of slaves into the English
colonies ; and though the British flag no longer
waves over the slave, it is but a few years since
slavery ceased to exist under its influence. The
result of my inquiries in Virginia leads me to
believe that the whites woidd gladly exchange
slavery, which, by dishonouring labour, introduces
idleness, for free work; but their capital is confined
to slaves, and they are obliged to go on in the way
of their fathers. I was much struck by a forcible
illustration of the loss attending the employment
of slaves, by a visit to one of the largest tobacco
factories in Richmond.

The principal trade of the city consists in the
manufacture of chewing-tobacco. The quantity
produced is enormous. The tobacco is steeped in
vats full of a loathsome black mixture, which, with
fouler additions, pollutes the floors of public and, not
unfrequently, private places.

Down the centre of a long room were twenty
large presses, at each of which some dozen slaves,
stripped to the waist (it was very hot), were tugging
and heaving at long iron arms, which turned L.rews"
accompanying each push and pull by deep-drawn

314

A VACATION TOUU.

groans

Within a few yards of the factory runs, or
rather rushes, an illimitable supply of water, the
merest fraction of which would furnish power to
turn the screws oi" all the presses in Richmond. On
suggesting the desirableness of using this great
natural force, instead of the numerous neirroes
now employed, thus saving their labour, the pro-
prietor of the factory, who kindly acted as my guide,
assured me the slaves did the work far better than it
could be done by machinery, as the overseer could
direct them to apply precisely as much pressure as
the tobacco required. Setting aside the terrible
ignorance of mechanical principles involved in this
reply, it will be evident to the reader that the true
reason why the far more economical use of machinery
is not employed to do this very simple work is,
because no capital exists, or can be obtained, to erect
suitable machinery. On leaving the factory, a
Richmond gentleman who had accompanied me said,
" You were quite correct in your observation
respecting the desirableness of employing machinery
instead of slaves in the tobacco factories; but the
truth is, the slaves are on the hands of the pro-
prietors, and they must work them." The introduc-
tion of machinery into these establishments would, in
all ])robability, greatly benefit the proprietors in

COTTON FACTOKIKS.

315

another point of view, for the labour is so much
disliked that many tobacco factories are annually
set on fire by incendiaries believed to be slaves.
It may be, however, this is done in retaliation for
oppression, as masters cannot be supposed to care
much about their slaves, when they allow tlieir
cl.ildren to sing nursery songs witli such couplets as
this,

" Hot corn, baked peai-s,
Kick nigger down stairs,"

wliich I heard uttered by a young hopeful in the
streets of Richmond.

Tlie want of capital is a serious bar to improve-
ment in the slave states. In expectation of supplying
this want, a place called Manchester was laid out for
cotton mills, on the James River, opposite Richmond;
but up to tlie present time only two have been erected.
These employ free white labour alone, but the
manager is an Englishman. The entire State of
Virginia is most favourably adapted, by its situation
and command of water-power, for developing a large
trade in cotton-spinning and weaving, yet it only
possesses twenty-seven mills, employing a capital oV
under two millions of dollars. Contrast this with

316

A VACATION TOUK.

the cotton-manufactures of Massachusetts, and it
will be seen how heavily slavery presses on the
energies of a State.

The census, which always sheds clear light on the
progress of a nation, shows still farther how slavery
has crippled Virginia. In 1810 she was the leading
State in the Union, and had a population of 974,622,
including 392,518 slaves and 30,570 free blacks.
New York, her rival, had a population of 959,049,
including 15,017 slaves and 25,333 free coloured.
In 1850, Virginia had 1,421,661 inhabitants, of
which 472,528 were slaves, and 54,333 free negroes
— an increase of 343,266 whites, 23,763 free blacks,
and 30,010 slaves. The comparatively small aug-
mentation of slaves shows how large a number of the
poor fellows have been consigned to dealers and
consumers further South. Now turn to New York
in 1850. The total number of inhabitants in the
Empire State was 3,097,394, of which 49,C69 were
free blacks, and no slaves,— almost the same increase
of free blacks as Virginia, and an increase of
2,112,609 whites to 343,266 in Virginia. These
figures furnish a more unanswerable argument
against the Nebraska bill than any figures of rhetoric.
And yet papers of the Slave States coolly insist on a
treaty witli England being immediately made for the

RENDITION OF FUGITIVE SLAVES. 317

rendition of fugitive slaves. The Columbus Times,
which is one of the leading organs among slave owners,'
observes : -<' The South ought to insist upon the foi
mation of a treaty with Great Britain by the Federal
Government for the surrender of fugitive slaves. The
United States have already formed a treaty with
England for the surrender of rogues, thieves, robbers,
murderers, and all other criminals, the object of
which is to protect the lives and property of her
citizens ; and not the smallest depredation is ever
committed upon any other property except slaves,
that is not followed by an instantaneous demand for
redress. Upon what principle of justice is a differ-
ence made by the Federal Government in the pro-
perty of the North and the property of the South ?
None that we can see. Yet thousands of slaves are
annually spirited across the Canada frontier, and
protected by British subjects and laws against jthe
pursuit of their masters.

" The loss that the South annually sustains, by the
running of slaves into Canada, is of sufficient im-
portance to justify her public men in insisting upon
some aetion of the Government of the United States in
the premises. And we confess our surprise that
southern statesmen have submitted with so much
patience to the annual robbery of thousands of dollars'

318

A VACATION TOUIt.

worth of property to which she has as good riglit as
to the land they cuUivatc. The time is propitious
for thn acquisition of all disputed rights from Eu-
ropean powers. They cannot afford to break just
now with the United States. Let our public men
move in the matter, and we question not but that
the IVesident and the American Minister at St.
James' will give the movement a cordial support.
Besides, this is a golden moment which may never
return. Before we get another sound man in the
Presidential Cha^'r, peace may be made in Europe,
and the European powers become less inclined to
look with favour upon the demands of America."

The statistics of pauperism may be cited as another
proof of the Injurious effect of slavery; for while
Ohio, with a population of 1,980,329, had only ro73
paupers in 1850, Vuginia, with a population of
1,421,621 less than that of Ohio, had to support
4458 paupers at the same date. But it is unneces-
sary to say more on this painful subject, so painful that
I would have remained silent, did I not conceive It
to be my duty as an Englishman to lift up my
humble voice against slavery.

A nation professing Christian doctrines, and
making swelling boasts of freedom. Is at once untrue
to Itself and unjust to those It oppresses, when, acting

CAriTOL-IIOUDON'M STATUE OF WASIIINGTOX. 319

on the feudal law of inigl.t boi.ig right, it seizes the
liolpless negro, and places him on a level with the
beasts of the field ; and until this foul stain be re-
moved, CJn-istian nations will not, and cannot, regard
tlie United States Government as a moral body
anxious for the welfare here and hereafter of those
under their dominion.

If it were not for the moral pestilence proceeding,
from the slave mart, I should say Jlichmond would
be a pleasant city to dwell in. It is agreeably
situated on the ascending slope of the north bank of
the James Kivcr, which is broken into several hills
of dittbrent elevations, giving a picturesque appear-
ance to the place. The residences of the upper
classes exhibit considerable taste, and are built of
stone. The chief public building is the Capitol,
finely situated in the centre of a small park on the
brow of a hill. Mr. Jefferson intended that this
buildmg should be a copy of the chaste Maison
Carr(^e at Nismes, a plan of which he sent from
France to Richmond; but his ingenious countrymen
fancied they could improve it, and accordingly
placed the columns on the top of the attic storey.
In many other respects the plan was inverted. The
building contains a statue of Washington by Houdon,

320

A VACATION TOUR.

which possesses far more merit than the seated figure
of the hero at Washington.

Apart from its artistic excellence, it is particularly-
interesting, as being by far the best likeness of
^'V'ashington in existence, so authentic in fact, that
almost all the portraits of him have been copied from
it. When the State of Virginia determined to have
a statue of Washington, the Legislature commissioned
Jefferson and Franklin, who were at Paris, to secure
the services of the most eminent European sculptor
to execute the work. Accordingly Houdon*, vfho
at that period (1785) enjoyed a very high reputation,
was engaged, and although he had many pressing
professional orders to execute, he crossed the Atlantic
with Franklin, for the express purpose of model-
ling a bust of Washington. The artist had the

* Jean Antolne Houdon was born at Versailles in 1741. At
eighteen years of age he gained the chief prize in sculpture at
the Royal Academy of Arts in Paris, and was sent at the
King's expense to study at Romo. There he immortalised
himself by his statue of St. Bruno, in the church of St. Maiy
of the Angels, of which Clement XIV. said, «' If the rules of
the Saint's order did not enforce silence, I am sure the statue
would speak." On hearing of Rousseau's death, Houdon
hastened to Ermenonville, to take a cast from the face of the
celebrated Genevese, which has been the great authority for all
busts of Rousseau. Numerous statues from Houdon's i;hise',
preserved in France, attest his excellence as a sculptor.

STATUE OF WASHINGTON. 321

advantage of residing for some weeks at Mount
V^ernon, where he had every opportunity of studying
Washington's face and expression. The result was
an Admirable plaster bust, with which he proceeded
to Paris, and which served as his model for the
present statue.

The costume was a subject of considerable discus-
sion, terminated eventually by Washington, who, in
compliance with a desire to have his opinion, wrote to
Jefferson, suggesting that a modern dress would be
preferable to "a garb of antiquity." In his reply,
Jefferson expressed his entire satisfaction with this
idea, adding, « I find it strongly the sentiment of
West, Copley, Trumbull, and Brown, in London."
The statue is therefore an authentic historical repre-
sentation of Washington in the costume which he
habitually wore as commander-in-chief. No other
statue was ever made from his person. It was
modelled about two years after the close of his
military career, when he was in the fifty-fourth year
of his age.

Its resemblance to Washington fully satisfied his
contenyoraries, several of whom declared it repre-
sented the original as pcrfeotly as a living man could
be represented in marble.

Thus, I regarded this statue with very great

322

A VACATION TOUR.

interest, and while contemplating the expressive
features of the great patriot, fully subscribed to the
following brief but noble tribute, which is inscribed
on the pedestal, and which tradition says was penned
by Madison on his knee, in the midst of the Legis-
lature of Virginia : — " The general assembly of the
Commonwealth of Virginia have caused this statue
to be erected as a monument of affection and grati-
tude to George Washington, who, uniting to the
endowments of the hero the virtues of the patriot,
and exerting both in establishing the liberties of his
country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow-
citizens, and given the world an immortal example
of true glory."

I visited the great State Penitentiary, which, like
all similar establishments in the States, is conducted
on the principle of making the labour of the
prisoners profitable. The governor boasted that the
prison-labour in 1854, produced 10,000 dollars more
than it yielded during the preceding year, forgetting,
apparently, that this involved a larger number of
prisoners, and consequently a greater amount of
crime. The gross earnings of 220 prisoners for one
year, were 72,213 dollars. Among the prisoners
were 75 coloured males, and four coloured females.
Respecting these persons, the official Report says, —

SELF-SUPPORTING PRISONS. 323

"It is needless to state how poorly they are qualified
for good mechanics." Among the crimes and
sentences of prisoners in 1853, are two for slave
stealing, sentenced to imprisonment for two and a
half and six years; three for carrying off slaves,
sentenced to ten and thirteen years, and life im-
pnsonment; six for aiding slaves to abscond,
sentenced to confinement for two, four and a half,
five, seven, and two years ; and one for giving a
register to a slave, sentenced to imprisonment for
five years, which exceeds by two years the average
length of imprisonment for manslaughter. The
prisoners are not separated. During the day they
labour together in large rooms, and at night are
locked up by couples in their sleeping cells. In fact
the system appears to have for its object, making the
prison self-supporting, rather than punishing and
reforming criminals. Economy is strictly studied
My attention was drawn by the governor to a man
dressed in good plain clothes, seated in a verandah
with his legs on the balcony rails. He was under
sentence of imprisonment for life for killino- his
brother, but being a doctor by profession, he wa's put
in charge of the hospital, by which arrangement the
establishment saved the expense of a paid medical

324

A VACATION TOUR.

officer. This, I apprehend, is a feature in prison
discipline which would not find favour in England.

I went to the theatre on the night preceding my
departure from Richmond. The acting was atrocious.
It however pleased the coatless audience, who gave
expression to their feelings by energetic shouts.

Before bidding farewell to Richmond, it is due to
the proprietor of the Exchange Hotel to commend
his establishment, which I found extremely com-
fortable. The public tables abounded with every
description of fare, which I sliould have apppreciated
more had I been in better health, and had the
negro waiters been a little less odorous. The hotel is
at present the largest in Richmond. Numerous fa-
milies board in it. On Sunday about two hundred
aat down to dinner, including several very pretty
Virginians, descendants perhaps of those " Sixty
maids of virtuous education, young and handsome,"
who were induced to cross the Atlantic in 1620, at
the expense of the London Company of Virginian
adventurers, on a marriage speculation. Looking at
this dinner party, and at the elegant saloon in which
we were assembled, I was led to contrast Richmond
hotels and manners at the present time with what
they were in my brother's day. Under the head of
Richmond, he says, — " I had scarcely alighted from

RICHMOND AS IT WAS.

325

my horse at the tavern, when the landlord came to
ask what game I was most partial to, as in suuu a
room there was a faro table, in another a hazard
table, in a third a billiard table, to any one of which
he was ready to conduct- me. In Virginia there is
scarcely a petty tavern without a billiard room, and
this is always full of a set of idle, low-lived fellows,
drinking spirits or playing cards, if not engaged at
the table. Cock-fighting is also another favourite
diversion. Many times I have been forced to pro-
ceed much farther in a day than I have wished, in
order to avoid the scenes of rioting and quarrelling
that I have met with at the taverns. Whenever
these people come to blows they fight just like wild
beasts, biting, kicking, and endeavouring to tear
each other's eyes out with their nails." After no-
ticing other brutal practices, he adds; "Four or
five instances came within my own observation as I
passed through Maryland and Virginia, of men
being confined in their beds from the injuries they
liad received in a fight."

Truly the traveller among such savages was a bold
man.

t a

326

A VACATICIi TOUR.

CHAP. XII.

JAMES RIVER. — EARLY ENGLISH COLONISTS. — CAPTAIN

SMITH DISMAL MORNING. PLANTERS* HOUSES

PICTURESQUE SCENERY. — AGRICULTURE. — HA3IPT0N

ROADS, NORFOLK.— NAVY YARD GOSPORT.-— CROWDED

STEAMER. LEAVE FOR BALTIMORE. — STEAM UP

CHESAPEAKE. DREADFUL NIGHT. BALTIMORE. —

HOTEL ACCOMMODATION EXHIBITION. — MANUFAC-
TURES. — AGRICULTURAL STATE FAIR. -— BEAUTIFUL
WOMEN. — FINE CITY. -— LEAVE FOR PHILADELPHIA.—
SCRAMBLE FOR SUPPER. —- RUDE BEHAVIOUR PHILA-
DELPHIA. — THE GIRARD HOUSE. -- PUBLIC SCHOOLS. —
STATE PENITENTIARY. — GIRARD COLLEGE. — JUDGE
KANE. PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY. — FRANKLIN INSTI-
TUTE. — ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES. —FINE COL-
LECTIONS STATE - HOUSE. — TAME SQUIRRELS. —

MINT. — WATER- WORKS. — FIRE COMPANIES FRANK-

LIN'S TOMB. — LEAVE FOR NEW YORK.

The James River possesses such deep historical
interest with reference to the early colonisation of
Virginia, that I resolved on making a trip down it to
Norfolk, and taking the steamer from that town up
the Chesapeake to Baltimore. The early history of
Virginia is, indeed, that of the establishment of
iiritish colonies in North America^ Eomantic me-

CAPTAIN SMITH.

327

mories of Raleigh, Elizabeth, and Pocahontas, are
associated with it. Maritime expeditions and co-
lonisation were the favourite undertakings and
projects of the adventurous spirits of the Old World
at that period; and even when overtaken hy the
severest disasters, they were not disheartened or
discomfited. Captain John Smith, the earliest his-
torian of Virginia, whose life and adventures are
among the most entertaining and extraordinary on
record*, relates that when the stores in James Town
(wliich was founded in 1607), were demolished by
legions of rats, the colonists remained in their little

* How greatly Smith was indebted to the daughter of King
Powhatan may be seen in all histories of Virginia. But the
gallant adventurer was evidently a favourite among the fair
sex. In the dedication of his curious book to the Duchess of
Richmond, he says: "Yet my comfort is, that heretofore
honourable and virtuous ladies, and comparable but amongst
themselves, have offered me rescue and protection in my
greatest dangcxj : even in forraine parts I have felt reliefe from
that sex. The beautiful lady Tragabigzanda, when I was a
shive to the Turks, did all she could to secure me. When I
overcame the Bashaw of Nalbrits in Tartaria, the charitable
lady Callimata supplyed my necessities. In the utmost of
many extremities that blessed Pokahontas, the great King's
daughter of Virginia, oft saved my life. When I escaped the
cruelties of pirates, and most furious storms, a long time alone
lu a small boat at sea, and driven ashore in France, the good
hidy Madam Chanoyes bountifully assisted me."

Y 4

328

A VACATION TOUR.

settlement subsisting on the wild fruits of the
country. As usual in such cases, there were some
among the little party who became dispirited and
home-sick. These, whom Captain Smith styles
" the drones," were thus addressed by their chief:
" Fellow-soidiers, I did little think any so false to
report, or to be so simple as to be pers waded, that I
intend to starve you. Now if I find any more
runners with the pinnace, let him assuredly look to
arrive at the gallows." It is to be lamented that
James Town, which, after struggling with many
difficulties, became the chief seat of the Colonial
Government from 1607 to 1698, eventually sank to
ruin. Scarcely a trace remains of this cradle of the
first English settlers.

The commencement of my trip down the James
River was unpropitious. The boat, which runs on
alternate days, started at half-past five, which in-
volved getting up in the dark, at all times disagree-
able. To add to my discomfort, torrents of rain
descended, through which I drove in a leaky omnibus
to the Sicamer; better off, however, than my luggage
which was unprotected. It was still dark when we
reached the river ; but wet and wretched as every-
thing was, I had a distinct remembrance of the loss
of my impedimenta at Washington, and was careful

planters' houses. 329

to see it on board. Presently, after much confusion,
and just as dawn flecked the East, we started.
There were about fifty passengers, principally men,
most of whom left the boat at various landing-places
down the river. This, near Richmond, is about
three hundred yards broad, very sinuous, and
bounded by wooded banks. Some miles below,
planters' houses appear a short way from the river!
These are very old. The greater portion are built
of bricks imported from England, and have the ap-
pearance of French chateaux. Time seems to have
made few inroads on these quaint old residences.
The occupants, like their forefathers, are surrounded
by slaves, and derive nearly all they require for the
wants of life from their estates.

As the morning advanced the weather improved,
and towards noon the sun burst through a bank of
storm clouds, which, drifting to the East, revealed
the blue sky. Thus favoured, the sail down the
river was very pleasing. The windings relieved the
scene from monotony. Picturesque craft with snow-
white sails were met or frequently passed, and noble
pmes wreathed by wild vines occasionally fringed
the banks. The soil, which is principally sandy, is
very favourable to the growth of these trees. Wheat
IS not much grown, but Indian corn, oats, potatoes.

330

A VACATION TOUR.

sweet potatoes, tobacco, and rice in the swampy
ground near Norfolk, are cultivated.

The orchards yield an abundance of fruits, includ-
ing peaches, almonds, and pomegranates. The
peaches, however, if I may judge by the specimens
on board the steamer, are neither large nor hit^h-
flavoured. In the afternoon we arrived abreast
James Town, which is undistinguishable from the
surrounding waste. Here the river is very wide
and deep, admitting the passage of the largest
vessels. Twenty miles below we steamed into a
lake-like expanse of water called Hampton Roads,
which communicates with Chesapeake Bay. Passing
in sight of this, we steered to the west for Elizabeth
River, eight miles from the mouth of which Norfolk
is situated. The Baltimore steamer was waiting for
us, so we ran alongside of her in the commodious
harbour. She was crammed with passengers pro-
ceeding to the Baltimore fair, but as there was no
other mode of reaching that city, I was obliged to
put up with the inconvenience of voyaging in a ship
already crowded to a degree scarcely affording
standing-room. During the few minutes that
elapsed before we started, I had time to take a
rapid survey of the navy-yard, called Gosport,
opposite which is Haslar Hospital. The only ship of

STEAM UP CHESAPEAKE. 331

war in the harbour was the Pennsylvania, one of the
largest men-of-war when built, but now far sur-
passed in size by our first-class ships. Neither the
dockyard or port showed any signs of activity. The
trade of Norfolk, notwithstanding the excellence of
Its harbour, is very limited. As the sun was
setting, we steamed out into Chesapeake Bay. For-
tunately the sea was perfectly smooth, otherwise the
effects would have been disastrous, for we were
packed like pigs on the decks, in the cabins, and in
every available stowing-place. The ship, which was
not large, made up a hundred berths, and as the
passengers were six tinges as numerous, the majority
had to lie on the floor. I was among this party, and
experienced the inconvenience which frequently
results to male invalids, whose fate compels them to
travel, from the extraordinary deference paid to lady
passengers. Being extremely unwell, I requested at
ten o'clock to be allowed to have a mattress placed
on the floor of the gentlemen's saloon, which was to
be appropriated for sleeping purposes. But I was
informed this could not be done until all the ladies
liad retired to bed, for though they had a saloon
and sleeping-cabin for their especial use, it
^vas alleged that they might fancy to visit the
gentlemen's cabin before gouig to bed. I was

332

A VACATION TOUR.

obliged to lie on the floor of the main cabin in
the bowels of the ship, where amidst some 200
persons, I passed a night, the remembrance of which
fills me with horror. The heat was fearful, but the
odours of tobacco juice and liquors were worse. All
through the night noisy men, hot with drink, reeled
into the cabin, and at early dawn an imploring cry
went round for bitters, which was drunh by almost
every person in the cabin. As soon as I could grope
my way out, I left the pestilential den, and hastened
to the upper deck, from whence I was delighted to see
the spires and high buildings of Baltimore. We had
made great progress. The distance from Norfolk to
Baltimore is 200 miles, which we ran in less than
twelve hours. The approach to the city is pictu-
resque ; a forest of shipping covered the spacious
harbour, comprising every sp-cies of craft, from the
noble Baltimore clipper, to the spruce and gaily
painted fishing boats, which were spreading their
sails and skimming rapidly over the waters, flashing
under the morning sun. Seen from a distance,
Baltimore has considerable claim to be called " the
monumental city," for it bristles with spires, towers,
and colu nns.

Our landing was a scene of great confusion,
terminating, as far as I was concern«jd, in being

BALTIMORE.—IIOTEL ACCOMMODATION. 333

driven, with some dozen fellow-passengers, to Bar-
num's Hotel, for which we were charged a dollar
each. Here, however, we plunged into even greater
chaos. The large hall of this large hotel was
thronged by hundreds of people, striving to inscribe
their names in the bar-book. Finding that every
room in the house was already occupied, I took no
part in this struggle ; preferring rather the luxury
of a warm bath, which was particularly refreshing
after the wretched night I had spent. This, and an
excellent breakfast, to which I sat down in com-
pany with Pbout 500 persons, gave me renewed
strength for sight-seeing duties. The resources of
American hotels are really wonderful. Sleeping ac-
commodation has its limits, but the wealth of the
culinary department seems to be boundless. No
accession of visitors, be they ever so numerous,
exhausts the supplies. I remember during one of
my continental rambles, encountering the Kincr of
Prussia at an hotel, and being told that in conse-
quence of the royal visit having exhausted the com-
missariat department, I could not be provided with
dinner. Not all the potentates of Europe, includ-
ing their suites, would, I believe, have such an
unfortunate effect on the resources of an American
hotel.

334

A VACATION TOUR.

Baltimore is unquestionablv a very handsome
city. The streets are wide, lined by good houses,
well built and finished with great elegance. The
doors are mostly painted a light colour, and provided
with silver plated knockers, and cut-glass handles ;
white marble steps are common. Elegant iron
balustrades, surmounted by silver plated knobs,
extend in front of the houses, which are generally
shaded ^ y large magnolias, Virginian creepers, or
sumachs. After ascending the Washington Column,
from the summit of which I made mtimate ac .uaint-
ance with the city, I visited the Maryland Fair at
the rooms of the Maryland Institute. Here were
exhibited a vast variety of specimens of the manufac-
tures of the State, showing a high degree of perfection.
I was particularly struck with the excellence of tlie
leather manufactures.

Maryland is also celebrated for its woollen goods,
of which I here saw several specimens. The finest
doe-skins and cassimeres equal those produced in
Europe. Coarse woollen cloths made by the prisoners
in the State penitentiaries were exhibited. These are
in great demand ; the lowest class of prisoners earn
2s. lOd. per day by the weaving of them.

I noticed various descriptions of garments sewn
by machinery; among these were shirts, and I

AGRICULTURAL STATE FAIR. 335

heard that one woman with a sewing machine can do
as much work as fifteen hand sewers.

In the department of Art the exhibition was less
satisfactory : with the exception of a series of very
interesting and well-painted portraits of Indian
chiefs, exhibited bj the Smithsonian Institution, the
pictures were poor.

From this exhibition I went to the Agricultural
lair, held in picturesque grounds about two miles
from the city. The number and variety f agricul-
tLU-al implements was extraordinary: I counted
upwards of twenty descriptions of ploughs. In one
manufactory near the city, eight machines are em-
ployed on the wood-work of a plough. The price
of these implements varies from two and a half to
seven dollars. I observed many varieties of corn
mills driven by steam, horse, and hand power-
sawing machines of all sizes were also very common;
Among the novelties for economising labour, was a
machine for picking up stones, consisting of a move-
able rake, with semi-circular fingers, which gathers
all the stones in its path. These are taken up by
teeth fixed in a drum, and dropped into a hopper,
fiom which they fall into a receptacle placed to re-
<:e.ve them. The machine can be made to pick up
apples, potatoes, or any article even as small as a nut.

336

A VACATION TOUR.

The horses, oxen, pigs, and sheep would have
done honour to our Baker Street show. The horses
harnessed to racing buggies were driven round a
large circle at great speed. The scene was altogether
extremely animated, and den'ved additional interest
from the mixed nature of the visitors; many of
whom were farmers from distant parts of the State
and were attired in the costume of their forefathers.
Among tl:e male portion— not excluding boys-
tobacco chewing was universal. It was curious to
witness the continual working of jaws as if impelled
by machinery. Tobacco-chew: ;t in America, hke
cigar-smoking in England, seems, among certain

classes, to be the test of manhood. *« What the

do you mean," said a stripling to a judge in the
United States, " by calling me a boy,— I've chawed
these two years."

Baltimore enjoys an enviable reputation for the
beauty of its female population. "A Baltimore
beauty " is a proverbial, and I am bound to admit
not unjust expression; at least I saw many very
pretty girls, who would have done themselves greater
justice if they had paid a little more attention to
the poet's well-known hint concerning beauty un-
adorned.

LEAVE FOK PHILADELPHIA. 337

The love for gay colours is universal. Scarlet
shawls and mantles, to judge by their number, are,
or were, particularly fashionable, for there was
scarcely a lady to be seen without one. These
gaudy articles of dr3ss are doubtless considered very
attractive, but to my mind the faces of the wearers
are more charming.

Having explored the city in all directions, for
which a day is quite sufficient, I left by the six
o'clock train for Philadelphia, where I hoped to get
a bed, which seemed very doubtful at Baltimore.
The train was greatly crowded by holiday people'
returning from the exhibitions. On arriving at the
Susquehannah we were transferred to a gigantic
ferry-boat fitted up like the saloon of an hotel. Into
this a terrific rush was made. Proceeding more
leisurely I found the object of attraction was supper
laid out on long tables running down the cabin.
After two or three ineffectual efforts, I contrived
to find narrow standing-room at a table. Although
I had not lost much time, I was nevertheless too late
for the first course, as nothing was left bat one piece
of bread on a dish before me. Hoping for some addi-
tion to this dry fare, I took the bread and placed it
on my plate, from which, however, it was almost
immediately removed by my neighbour, who, having

338

A VACATION TOUR.

succeeded in getting hold of a fresh portion of meat,
took this Nummary mode of helping himself to bread.
I trust I shall stand in some degree excused when I
confess that this outrage, committed by a man who,
being a blackguard, had the outward semblance of a
gentleman, caused me to lose my temper in a manner
that I thought must have brought me into trouble.
But though I abused the fellow in words which
shall not sully these pages, he coolly went on eating,
and doubtless thought he had the best of the trans-
action. This, and on another occasion, when, as I
was sitting down to dinner on a railway journey, a
brute popped his reeking tobacco-quid on my plate
instead of depositing it on the table, making no
apology, were, I am happy to say, my only expe-
riences of rudeness during the whole of my tour in
the United States.

Weary and hungry, I hailed the lights of Phi-
ladelphia with great satisfaction, and the comforts of
the excellent Girard House, where I was so for-
tunate as to meet some English friends with whom
I had crossed the Atlantic, soon made amends f'-r
my previous little miseries. "When suffering under
these inflictions, it is well to remember that " tra-
velling is a state of great pleasure mixed with great
annoyance," and as Sterne philosophically observes,

PHILADELPHIA. 339

"There must be „ps and downs, or how the deace
should we get into valleys, where Nature spreads so
many tables of entertainment."

Probably there is „„ city in the United States
more American than Philadelphia; for, with the
exception of one very little short cut, describing the
hypothenuse of a triangle near the Exchange, all the
thoroughfares are rectangular. The monotony of
this arrangement is in some measure broken by the
avenues of trees which line many of the streets, and
cast a grateful shade over the side-walks. This is
the more welcome as Philadelphia is said to be the
hottest city in the States. At the time of my visit
October 5, the heat had subsided, and the tempe-
rature was agreeable ; but I heard from many
persons that daring the months of August and Sep-
tember the thermometer had reached 100° in the
shade. It is probable that Penn was influenced by
meteorological considerations when he wisely planned
l»s city with narrow streets, for the reverse, durin<T
summer in a hot climate, renders a town almost
unmhabitable.

Apart from its interests as the second commercial
cty in the States, Philadelphia possesses strong
claims in an historical point of view upon the tra-
veller's attention. It requires no great stretch of

Z 2

340

A VACATION TOUR.

imagination to picture the great and good William
Penn founding the capital of his territory, not
acquired by the sacrifice of innocent lives, but by
strict and impartial justice, and which, by a happy
train of events, became the birthplace of that great
world-lesson, American Independence. Its situation
is admirably adapted for a vast commercial em-
porium. Placed between the Delaware and Schuyl-
kill rivers, it has, though upwards of one hundred
miles from the Atlantic, the advantage of a tidal
navigation*, admitting the largest ships to its ca-
pacious wharves. A large fleet of steam-boats link
it with every port, and a net-work of railways
carries its commerce to the far West. It requires
less time to go now to Europe, or the most distant
parts of the States, than it did in Franklin's days to
reach Newport. When he kept the Post Office in
Market Street .ic issued this advertisement : « No-
tice is hereby given, that Henry Pratt is appointed

* My brother relates that when he was in Philadelphia, a
young Indian chief happened to be there. The shipping
greatly excited his admiration, but he was much more
astonished by seeing the river flow two different ways at
different hours. " Ah," said he, '« if the Great Spirit would
make the Ohio run two ways for us, we should very often pay
you a visit at Pittsburg."

1 William
itory, not
s, but by
Y a happy
hat great
1 situation
rcial em-
l Schuyl-
hundred
f a tidal
its ca-
oats link
railways
requires
it distant
3 days to
Office in
t: "No-
ippointed

Ldelphia, a
! shipping
uch more
; ways at
irit would
often pay

PUBLIC SCHOOLS. 341

riding.postman for all stages between Philadelphia
and Newport. He sets out on the first of each
month, and returns in twenty-four Jayb.

The stores are the great wonders of modern Phila-
delphia. Not only are they of gigantic dimensions,
but they are also built with great solidity and
elegance. I visited some of these establishments,
and was really amazed by their immense extent.
The great book-store of ^tessrs. Lippincott & Co.
is particularly interestincr, as illustrating the whole-
sale nature of American commercial enterprise.
Here the traders in books may be supplied with all
kinds of intellectual wares, just as a draper furnishes
his shop from a Manchester warehouse.

As the public schools wer^ closed when I was at
Boston, I took advantage of those at Philadelphia
being open to visit them. To understand the
American public system of education properly, it is
necessary to begin at the lowest stage of instruction,
and visit the superior schools in succession. The
grades are — primary, secondary, grammar, normal,
and high schools. The precocity of the children
in the primary schools is remarkable ; boys and girls
in years, but in appearance and smartness, dwarfed
men and women. On a question being asked,
<lozens of tiny hands were energetically outstretched,'

'/. 3

342

A VACATION TOUR.

expressing ability to answer. The teachers in the
primary as also in the secondary and grammar
schools are young women, who are very generally
employed on this occupation, and are found very
efficient instructors. The preponderance of female
over male teachers is shown by the fact that in 1853
there were in Philadelphia 760 females to 80 male
teachers.

The grammar schools exhibited very satisfactory
results.

In the normal school, which was established in
1848, I saw 280 girls, young ladies rather, for they
were about eighteen years of age, undergoing In-
struction from professors, with the view of qualifying
for teachers. There are always many more appli-
cants for admission to this school than vacancies.
The official report states : — " From the care that is
manifested in the examination of candidates for
admission into the school, and the tests of capacity,
character, and scholarship, to which they are re-
quired to submit, it.is next to impossible for any one
to gain admission who is not calculated to become a
teacher of good standing, and be a credit to the
school. Every applicant for admission is required to
be at least fifteen years of age, and to exhibit pro-
ficiency in Orthography, Definition of Words,

PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

343

Reading, English Grammar, History of the United
States, Geography, Arithmetic, and Penmanship,
and to declare their intention to pursue the business
of teaching in the Public Schools of the Common-
wealth of Pennsylvania. The length of time occu-
pied in the whole course, is usually two years, much
depending as to time on the attainment of the pupils
before admission, and their industry and perse-
verance afterwards. Some pupils have completed
the course in one year, while a few have occupied
three years; the first part of the course is appro-
priated principally to the subjects of instruction in
the grammar schools. During the second part of
the course, instruction is given in the science and
practice of teaching general History of the World,
Ancient Geography, Exercises in Composition, Logic,
Drawing, Music, Elements of Astronomy, Elements
of Natural Philosophy and Chemistry, Mental and
Moral Philosophy, Geometry, and School Govern-
ment."

This, it must be confessed, is a comprehensive
course, and all is gratuitous. The majority of those
in the school were evidently of a superior class;
many in their dress and demeanour polished ladies.
The report truly observes, « Who can calculate the
niiglity influence yet to be exerted through the

z 4

344

A VACATION TOUR.

instrumentality of normal schools for the education
of female teachers."

The high or superior schools receive the ^lite
pupils of tliG g^-rainar schools, to whom a college
education is given, and degrees of bachelors and
masters of arts conferred. "The course is four
years, ard instruction is given in the Classics,
French, Spanish, anu thehigiier Mathematics, Logic,
Elocution, and Philosophy in all its branches;
Chemistry, Navigation, and Phonetics." There were
620 students on the books of this establishment,
instructed by twelve professors and three assistants.
At the request of a professor, I gave a subject to the
composition class, " Washington at Mount Vernon."
In half an hour about fifty essays were written.
Those examined were highly creditable perform-
ances.

The total number of schools in operation in the
city in 1853 was 286, comprising 25,836 male, and
24,249 female scholars. These were taught by 840
teachers. During the year, 411,303 dollars were
expended for educational purposes, of which 223,305
dollars were paid to teachers. The average annual
cost per pupil in all the schools was 7-16 dollars; in
the norniai school, 10-68, and in the high school,
32-97.

STATE PENITENTIARY.

345

It is delightful to find that in this great self-
imposed national task of education, the ministers of
all sects are found zealously co-operating. Professor
Draper observes, in his address to the alumni of
New York, in 1854, "Education is greatly indebted
to the clergy of the United States for its advance-
ment. Go where you will, from the oldest to the
most recently settled States, you will find a clergy-
man at the beginning of every educational institu-
tion. The debt of gi-atitude we owe them is great
indeed."

Having completed my examination of the schools,
in all of which I received the greatest attention and
courtesy, I went to the Eastern State Penitentiary,
one of the largest establishments for the punishment
and reform of criminals in the Union. At the time
of my visit there were 293 convicts in the prison.
These, though nominally undergoing solitary con-
finement, are allowed to see visitors. Their cells are
also provided with more articles of furniture than
those in our model prisons ; and the dreary mono-
tony of the narrow cage is greatly alleviated by a
small garden, to which the prisoner has free access,
and where a few plants and the sight of the sky and
smishine, bring him a little into communion with
nature. This comparatively mild discipline, has

346

A VACATION TOUR.

been found to answer the most sanguine expectation.
In tlio report of the inspectors for 1854, they say : —
"It is believed the time has passed when further
r.rgumer.t is necessary to support the separate
system, as now administered in Pennsylvania. For
almost a quarter of a century this penitentiary has
been in active operation. As year after year has
afforded new experience as to the proper application
of the principles on which the system rests, efforts
have been made practically to adapt them to the
improvement in its administration. From its earliest
history to the present period, our system has most
favourably compared with any other in operation.
The inspectors have therefore only to remark that
confirmation has followed conv:~tion of the truth of
their views, and, as facts sustain them, theory is left
to harmless combat with theory."

The prisoners work in their cells ; those ignorant
of trades are taught some description of handicraft.
Those who can read and write are provided with
suitable works, and those who cannot read are
taught the rudiments of education. The punishment
for offences against the prison regulations is confine-
ment in a dark cell and diminution of food. Out of
400 prisoners confined in 1853, only 13 under-
went punishments of this nature. I made particular

OIRAUD COLLEGE.

347

inquiries respecting the number of prisoners whose
minds have sunk under cor^..^,;)..nt; since the prison
was opened in 1829, n r.oi.g o089 convicts only 8
cases of hopeless lunae Lavo occurred, which is
a very small proportion o .he total number of
prisoners.

Among the convictions, those under the general
heads of forgery and passing counterfeit money
are more numerous than any other class of crime.

Not far from the penitentiary stands Girard
College, a noble and handsome monument of the
wealth and philanthropy of its founder, Stephen
Girard, who, from the humble beginning of a French
sailor, accumulated an enormous fortune, two million
dollars of which he left to build and endow a college
bearing his name, for the support of three hundred
orphan boys, who are fed, clothed, and educated so
as to fit them for situations in life. Not being myself
"an ecclesiastical missionary, or minister of any
sect whatsoever," to whom admittance to the college
is forbidden by Girard's will, I was allowed free
permission, though it was not a public day, to go
over the establishment. An admirable statue of
Girard, representing him as he was known in the
streets of Philadelphia, stands in the entrance hall.

343

A VACATION TOUR.

After seeing the interior, including the three hundred
boys at dinner, whose happy looks reflected the
kindness of their benefactor, I ascended to the
summit of the building for the double purpose of
seeing the fine view from this elevation, and the
construction of the roof; this is composed of
enormous marble slabs, set like tiles, the aggregate
weight of which is 1000 tons.

Among those in Philadelphia pleasantly and
gratefully remembered for their kindness and
hospitality, I cannot forbear naming Judge Kane,
father of the gallant Lieut. Kane, who has made a
European as well as American reputation, by his
chivalrous zeal and labours in connection with Arctic
enterprise and the search for Sir John Franklin.
I spent an evening with Judge Kane and his
family, where I had the pleasure of seeing several
sketches and drawings by his son, some of which
have been engraved in his interesting work. The
Grinnell Expedition.

Judge Kane introduced me to an evening meeting
of the Philosophical Society, which holds high rank
among American scientific institutions. The library
contains numerous letters and other memorials of
Franklin, who founded the society, and was its

PHILOSOPniCAL SOCIETY. 349

president as long as he lived.* The suggestion for
the formation of this society was contained in a
paper dated May 14, 1793, entitled, a Proposal for
promoting Useful Knowledge among the British
Plantations in America. After alluding to the
difficulty then existing of free communication of
thoughts among men devoted to philosophical
pursuits, in consequence of the want of a common
place of meeting, Franklin says, " To remedy this
inconvenience for the future, it is proposed that a
society be formed of virtuosi, or ingenious men, resid-
im in the several colonies, to be called The American
JrndosopMcal Society, who are to maintain a constant
correspondence ; and that Philadelphia, being the
city nearest the centre of the continental colonies, com-
municating with all of them northward and south-
ward by post, and with all the islands by sea, and
having the advantage of a good growing library bo
the centre of the society." He then enumerates the

toLnl7'' 'T^^'^"^^^ ^^^P^^^^^ °" goi°g the following day,
to look over the socict-. rooms, to find (ts hall occupiej by J
cour of law. On in,«iry I was informed the society's

ment by which Government saves the cost of erecting addition-!

aw courts I think the Fellows of the Ro.al SoLty wol

be astomshed^o find their meeting-room tenanted by judge

jury, and barristers. ^ ^ ^ '

350

A VACATION TOUR.

various subjects that should engage the atteni.on of
the proposed institution; and when it was established,
he became a constant contributor to the society's
transactions.

The scientific fame of this philosopher is further
perpetuated at Philadelphia by the "Franklin
Institute," where, among other objects of interest,
Franklin's original electrical apparatus, with which
he performed his experiments, is preserved. A
standing committee of members of this institute
exists for the purpose of inquiring into and reporting
on the causes of steam-boiler explosions. When
an accident of this nature occurs, the committee, if
possible, examine the boiler and locality of the explo-
sion, and as such accidents are not uncommon, the
members of the committee must have rather active
employment. Drawing-schools are attached to the
Franklin Institute, where instruction is given on the
terms of five dollars per quarter.

The naturalist must not omit visiting the Academy
of Natural Sciences, where he will find a very com-
plete and highly interesting collection of American
birds. Founded in 1812, by a few zealous men of
science, the academy now possesses very extensive col-
lections, particularly in ornithology, ichthyology, her-
petology, and other departments of natural history.

FINE COLLECTIONS.

351

A large building, unfortunately remarkable only for
its want of taste, has recently been erected to contain
the collections, which are rendered very accessible to
the student. The academy observe : — " It is our
pleasure to hope we shal^ be cheered on in our
course, till the museum s., vH become an epitome of
all created things, so fully displayed, that the
student may resort to it with a certainty of learning
what has been ascertained in the world of nature."

Among the ornithological specimens are included
the rare and interesting birds, amounting to 2000,
from which the drawings were made for Mr. Gould's
splendid work "The Birds of Australia." The
entire collection of birds amounts to 27,000 spe-
cimens. In the department of ethnography, the
academy is particularly rich, possessing the large
collection of crania, 918 in number, formed by the
late Dr. Morton. This collection is one of the most
i^markable in existence. It contains crania illus-
trative of 22 varieties of the Caucasian race, 69 of
the aboriginal American raore, besides many other
mixed races. When it is considered that this ex-
cellent institution is -.^ported entirely by donations
and the annual contnoutjons of its members, great
merit is certain]) due to those who have brought it
to its high state o. fficiency.

^m^ I'jk

352

A VACATION TOUR.

Numerous as are the buildings of which the
Philadelphians are pioud, there is one of compa-
ratively ancient date, far more precious to them
than all others. This is the State House, a plain
brick structure of true republican mould, in which,
on the 4th July, 1776, the celebrated Declaration
of Independence was signed. The room where this
solemn act was performed is preserved in its original
condition. It is open to all comers. Within a
railing stands a wooden statue of Washington. Near
it is a solid leather-covered chair, on which sat
sturdy John Hancock, -':hen he signed the Decla-
ration with iron-nerved energy. A portion of the
steps on which stood the Secretary of Congress
w\ien he read the stirring and momentous words to
the people in front of the building, and the bell,
now cracked, which rang out the great fact to the
citizens, are preserved in the same room. Por-
traits of Penn and Lafayette, of sorry execution,
are suspended on the walls. The building, with the
exception of this room/tis devoted to courts of law,
which occupy narrow and mean apartments, unfitting
the dignity of great judicial proceedings. Behind
the State House, a large open place, called Inde-
pendence Square, is planted with trees sufficiently
old to have shaded the revolutionary heroes. On
my way to the Mint, I passed through another

THE SQUIRRELS.

353

square bearing the name of Washington. Here the
fashionable world of Philadelphia may be seen, for it
must not be imagined the " Quaker City" is destitute
of these butterflies of society. Indeed, remembering
who were the founders of Philadelphia, it is re-
markable how few quakers are visible in the streets.
Pausing in Washington Square for a few minutes on
a seat beneath a spreading locust-tree, I was sur-
prised to find myself in a moment surrounded by a
company of squirrels, which after sundry gambollings
and friskings came to rest at my feet, while some
still tamer climbed on my knees.* The familiarity
was soon explained. Within .. 't distance a lady
was feeding a number of th. ^ .etty animals, and-
otliers were receiving food from parties in more
distant parts of the square. On inquiry I was in-

It appears that the Pennsylvanlans have long been fond of

ame squu-rels. Kaln, who visited them in 1748, says - » 1

have see., squirrels in Pennsylvania tamed so tar, that ihey

would follow the boys into the woods and run about every'

where, and when tired would sit on their shoulders. Some-

""es they only ran a little way into the wood, and then

--^ home again to the little hole that had Le.; fitted .p

1 s;iiio:'tr"-""^^'^"'''^^^"p^"^'^-^'^

.1 l.e still on them m order to sleep. In the farm-houses
w ere they were kept, ^u., played with cats and dojl
Jrappls, vol. i. p. 314, "a"-

A A

354

A VACATION TOUK.

formed these squirrels arc carefully protected by the
citizens, who frequently turn aside from the busy
streets to look at the gambols of their little fa-
vourites.

The Mint in Philadelphia is the head establishment
for coining specie for the United States. " It is
lawful for any person to bring to the Mint gold or
silver buHion to be coined ; and the bullion so
brought is there assayed and coined, as speedily as
may be ; and, if of the standard of the United States,
free of expense to the person by whom it has been
brought." The machinery in this establishment is
extremely beautiful, but the artistic execution of
the dies is poor. A great portion of the light work,
sucn as charging the presses with blanks. Sec, is
performed by girls. The coinage during 1853 was
very large, amounting to 7,842,169 gold, 61,871,068
silver, and 6,770,825 copper pieces, representing a
total value of 64,358,537 dollars. It is well known
that the salaries of civil officers in the States holding
situations of great labour and trust are very small.
Nowhere is this more apparent than in the chief
United States Mint, the director of which receives
only 700Z. a-year.

I went early one morning to see the celebrated
Fairmount water-works,~earlior than I proposed, —

STREETS IN PIIILADEL1>IIIA. 355

bnt the uproar in the liotel, from a fraternising
demonstration between a Baltimore and Philadelphia
fire company, terminated my slumbers sooner than
was agreeable. The interchange of visits between
fire companies in various towns is a peculiar
feature of America. The companies entertain each
other, during which all kinds of amusements prevail.
It is usual on these occasions to walk through the
cities and towns preceded by a band, which some-
times does not confine its brassy harmony to the
streets.

On my way to the water-works, I passed through
the more modern portion of Philadelphia, which
stretches as far as the Schuylkill, where Twenty-
fourth street is reached. The stranger will do well
to remember, that the principal streets, which run at
right angles to the rivers, are named after different
trees. There is a local distich-

receives

" Chestnut, Walnut, Spruce, and Pine,
Cedar, Cherry, Plum, and Vine,"

denoting leading avenues parallel to each other.
Beyond the river the city, under the name o. West
Philadelphia, recommences, and is fast overspreading
the country. Thanks to the general use of anthra-
cite coal, the houses, with their plate-glass windows,

A A 2

356

A VACATION TOUR.

and white marble steps, are unstained by smoke ;
and other impurities are daily removed by copious
washings, which have the additional advantage of
cooling the air. A water-pipe terminates under the
trottoir opposite each house ; thus, by merely attach-
ing a hose, and turning on the water,which is at high
pressure, a copious stream may be thrown on any
part of the premises.

The water-works are very simple. Immediately
above them the entire breadth of the Schuylkill is
crossed by a dam 1600 feet long. Powerful
hydraulic machinery is set in motion, which raises
8000 gallons of water per minute to reservoirs 100
feet high, occupying an area of six acres, from
whence, after being filtered, it is distributed by cast-
iron pipes through the city. Advantage has been
taken of the picturesque situation of Fairmount to
lay it out in pleasure-grounds, adorned by statues
and fountains, — a favourite resort of the citizens in
the summer evenings.

My final pilgrimage in Philadelphia was to the
grave of Franklin, in the cemetery of Christ Church,
the oldest ecclesiastical edifice in the city. A plain
slab covers the remains of this great man and his
wife, bearing the simple inscription : —

VISIT franklin's grave.

357

Bknjamin

and
Deborah

-Franklin.

1790.
Franklin, as is well known, wrote a very humorous
epitaph on himself; but the discretion must be
commended which substituted the above plain record
for light and jesting words, which are out of place
on the threshold of eternity.

I was so much nleased with Philadelphia, that I
regretted my war mg vacation necessarily made my
sojourn there v.ry brief. The magnificence of the
buildings, composed of beautiful marbles, — the
splendid interiors of the houses of the wealthy
classes,— -the elegance and refinement of their occu-
pants contrasting curiously with the stern simplicity
of Penn and his immediate successors,— render it a
most charming and desirable residence.

I left the flourishing city by the New Jersey
railway, and four hours after my departure, stepped
on the crowded New York landing-wharf from the
Jersey city steam-ferry.

A A. 3

358

A VACATION TOUR.

CHAP. XIII.

THE SAINT NICHOLAS HOTEL. — CONDUCT OF ITS GUESTS.

— TRIAL OF DR. GRAHAM. — DELMONICO's HOTEL

HOW TO SEE NEW YORK. — THE HUDSON. — GREAT

HOSriTALITY.— MR. GRINNELL COMMERCIAL QUARTER

OF NEW YORK. — ITS PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES

BROADWAY. — FASHION. — SPLENDID MANSIONS. — REPUB-
LICAN LUXURY. — ARISTOCRATIC DESIRES. — ORDER OF
THE CINCINNATL — LOVE FOR TITLES. — FRANKLIN's
COAT OP ARMS. — JEFFERSON's PREDICTION.— CRYSTAL
PALACE. — BARNUM's SPEECH. — RAILWAY OMNIBUSES. —

CROTON RESERVOIR. — ASTOR LIBRARY NEW OPERA

HOUSE.— GRISI AND MARIO — NEW YORK CRITICISM.

METROPOLITAN THEATRE CHRISTy's MINSTRELS.—

SUPPER ROOMS.— DEFERENCE PAID TO LADIES. BAR-
ROOMS. — ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH. — VOLUNTEER AND

MILITIA CORPS. — RECRUITING SERVICE PAY OF ARMY.

— NAVY. — EMIGRANTS AMERICAN PARTY MANIFESTO.

— STATEN ISLAND. — FAREWELL LMPRESSIONS.— .TOURNEY

TO BOSTON MR. TICKNOR LOSS OP ARCTIC. —

DEPARTURE. — FUNERAL AT Si V. — ARRIVE AT LIVER-
POOL. — CONCLUSION.

"Be sure," said all my friends, "to go o the
St. Nicholas Hotel at New York." Without casting
any reflections on the accommodations of that mag-
nificent hotel, which I believe are excellent, I
resolved before entering New York not to follow
this advice, because the said hotel had recently

TRIAL OF DR. GRAHAM.

359

acquired clisagreeablo notoriety, by a New Orleans
physician of large practice killing a fellow guest in
the house, and by an outrage perpetrated by another
Southerner on a friend of mine, who, with no further
])rovocation than merely looking at him, had practical
evidence of fiery southern blood, by receiving an
ugly blow from a fork, which was hurled at his face
across the public dinner table. The ruffian who
committed this outrage was of course quickly taken
out of the room ; not, however, before he gave ex-
pression to horrible impreca ions, to which anxious
desires for a pistol or bowie .nife were added.

During the summer months, when these events
occurred, the large hotels in New York are thronged
by Southerners, who not un." jquently exhibit a little
outbreak of manners, more characteristic of society
in the Southern than in the Northern States. On
the trial of Doctor Graham for killing Col. Loring
in the St. Nicholas Hotel, to which I have alluded,
it came out in evidence, that he was in the habit of
leaving New Orleans annually for what he called " a
spree," on which occasions he carried a sword-cane,
with which he killed Col. Loring. The trial took
place while I was in New York, and although the
evidence was such as in my opinion ought to have
convicted Dr. Graham of murder, he was only found

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360

A VACATION TOUR.

guilty of manslaughter in the second degree, to
which the punishment of imprisonment for four years
is attached.

It will be seen, however, by the following extract
from the judge's charge, that a human being may be
killed in the United States with an impunity which
the English law does not re^.ognise. " Killing," said
Judge Mitchell, " is excusable when committed, first,
by accident and misfortune ; second, in the heat of
passion ; third, upon a sudden combat ; fourth, with-
out any undue acl vantages being taken ; fifth, without
any dangerous weapon being used; sixth, and not
done in a cruel and unusual manner."

The reader is now in possession of my reasons for
not going to the St. Nichohs Hotel ; for although the
founders of New Amsterdam swore by that saint,
under whose benign influence and protection their
settlement increased in magnitude and prosperity, I
had no reason to believe that the guests of the afore-
said hotel were equally protected. So I went to
Delmonico's, near the lower end of Broadway,— an
excellent house, kept on the English system of
charging only for the meals eaten. Having secured
a room, for which I paid a dollar per day, I made a
general acquaintance with New York, by walking up
Broadway, until I exchanged the crashing bustle and

now TO SEE NEW YORK.

361

tumult of the business portion of the city for the
stillness of untenanted streets. Thanks to the singular
formation of the ground on which New York is built,
which confines it in breadth to an average space of
two miles, allowing extension only in a longitudinal
direction, the city may be soon seen. Take an
omnibus up Broadway, continue your explorations to
the Croton reservoir, return by Fifth Avenue ; sweep
round the south-east portion of the city, taking care
not to be annihilated by boxes, bales, and packages
flung recklessly about in the vicinity of the stores j
pause at the Battery, beneath the trees ; ascend the
spire of Trinity Church ; and terminate your explo-
ration by a ramble among the wharves crowded by
throbbing steamers, departing or arriving from the
North River, Jers^ey City, and Hoboken: all this
may be done in three or four hours. And, though the
New Yorkers doubtless consider their great and
flourishing city requires and merits a much larger
portion of the tourist's time, I am bound to declare
it may be well seen and understood in the course of
a mor iig, particularly if the ascent of Trinity
Church be included in the programme I have
sketched. The fact is, there are very few public
buildings in New York to arrest attention. The
tourist hlasd by church, palace, and picture sights.

362

A VACATION TOUR.

Will rejoice at this fact. But though New York
may be " done " in a few hours, I do not advise so
summary a dismissal of that great city. I spent three
days in it, and all my time was pleasantly occupied.

A trip up the Hudson i. of course a duty on the
part of the English tourist, and its performance will
be remembered with much pleasure. The scenery
of this river has been so frequently described, that I
feel it would be superfluous to add to its praises.
Americans are very solicitous to obtain assent to
their assertion, that the beauty of the Hudson
exceeds that of the Rhine.

Both rivers mirror lovely scenery on their broad
breasts, but the castled crags overlooking the Rh ixe,
with their charming lichen hues crown that river, in
my opinion, with superior beauty.

I know that manv Americans consider the white
villas on the Hudson, with their cockney architec-
ture, far more eye-pleasing than crumbling towers.
To this I can only reply, tastes differ ; and I for one
would rather see the Hudson as it was when the
" gallant squadron of Pavonia " ascended its waters.
Then says their own Washington Irving, " No signs
of human thrift appeared to check the delicious
wildness of nature, who here revelled in all her
luxuriant variety. Those hills now bristling like

THE HUDSON.

363

the fretful porcupine, with rows of poplars, (vain,
upstart plants! minions of wealth and fashion!)
were then adorned with the vigorous natives of the
soil. The lordly oak, the generous chestnut, the
graceful elm ; while here and tliere the tulip tree
reared his majestic head, the giant of the forest ;
where now are seen the gay retreats of luxury,
villas half buried in twilight bowers, whence the
amorous flute oft breathes the sighings of some city
swain; there the fish-hawk built his solitary nest on
some dry tree that overlooked his watery domain.
The timid deer fed undisturbed along those shores,
now hallowed by the lover's moonlight walk, and
printed by the slender foot of beauty ; and a savage
solitude extended over those happy regions where
now aro reared the stately towers of the Joneses."

Had I not seen the wonderful steam-boats on Lake
Erie, I should have been amazed by the size of those
on the Hudson. The great boats on that river,
sixteen to a mile, steam at the rate of twenty-two
miles an hour. They are incited to outdo all former
go-ahead performances, by the opposition of the
Albany and New York Railway, which runs along
the east bank of the river, frequently within sight of
the most beautiful scenery. I returned to New
York by this line.

364

A VACATION TOUR.

As elsewhere, I was indebted to the great kind-
ness and hospitality of warm, though new friends,
for many pleasant hours in New York. I had the
happiness of making Mr. Grinnell's acquaintance,
who is known wherever the sad story of the Franklin
expedition has penetrated, for his munificent endea-
vour to rescue our gallant countrymen. Mr. Grinnell's
retiring modesty harmonises with his actions, in which
the reputation of others has always been more con-
sidered than his own. He was so kind as to introduce
me to the Exchange, and point out many of the nota-
bilities in the commercial part of New York, where
stock and other jobbing have reared altars to mammon.
The fiery fever of speculation — a besetting sin of all
great cities — rages in New York. At the time of
my visit, many failures had taken place in conse-
quence of over and unsound trading, and Wall
Street was in dismay at the gloomy prospect of no
dividends. It is said New 'York merchants toil in
their stores to sleep in palaces. The ceaseless bustle
in the business part of the city in some measure
confirms this. Within and without the vast stores
a continual ebbing and flowing of goods goes on from
early morn till eve, and stately ships discharge their
varied cargoes on the crowded wharves. The
tortuous nature of the business streets contrasts

■

TUE BROADWAY.

365

curiously with the general formal plan of the city.
This arises from the circumstance that the founders
of « New Amsterdam » built without any settled
design. « The sage council," says the immortal
Knickerbocker, " not being able to determine upon
any plan for the building of their city; the cows, in
a laudable fit of patriotism, took it under their par-
ticular charge, and as they went to and from pasture,
established paths through the bushes, on each side
of which the good folks built their houses ; which is
one cause of the rambling and picturesque turns and
labyrinths which distinguish certain -streets of New
York at this very day."

Emerging from these commercial purlieus, which
would be greatly improved by a few judicious police
regulations, we entered Broadway. The throng
of people and vehicles in this great artery is on^.-
paralleled by the Strand or Cheapside, which not-
able streets it somewhat resembles in width, for it
would be more appropriate to call it Longway, as
it is much more remarkable for its length than
breadth.

The variety of characters streaming through this
channel is very striking. Our Regent Street and
City blend. But the commercial portion of the
community hurry along with a rapidity unknown in

366

A VACATION TOUR.

Cheapside, and the ladies dress in a manner which
would attract considerable attention at the West End
of London. Glaring colours prevail, and harmony-
is set at defiance. Every article of dress is of a
different colour. Pink bonnets, green robes, yellow
gloves, and blue silk boots, are not uncommon phe-
nomena. The best time for seeing Broadway in
all its feminine glory is on Sundays when the
churches and chapels pour forth their motley con-
gregations. A few years ago Trinity Church was a
fashionable place of worship. Now, the fashionable
world must be sought higher up the town ; for as
commerce engrosses the streets in the neighbourhood
of the Park, wealth and fashion seek more distant
localities. The New York belle will not, therefore,
be seen in Trinity Church. I attended service in
that building, and during my walk at the conclusion
of service, I was much struck by the more dashing
dresses and style of the women as I advanced up
Broadway. The answer of a New York girl to a
friend who asked her to go to Trinity Church is well
known : " I am not dressed for Trinity." So it is —
as every church and chapel have their religions, so
have they their standing in the New York world of
fashion.

It would, I apprehend, be impossible to find a

KEPUBLICAN LUXUIIY.

367

greater contrast than the wealthy and poor quarters
of the city. The mansions in the neighbourhood of
the Fifth Avenue are of the most magnificent de-
scription ; furnished regardless of cost. The power
of wealth is here abundantly conspicuous. Every
quarter of the globe has been subsidised to minister
to the gratification of the merchant prince, who,
despite his professions, is no longer the simple re-
publican trader. Observe the equipages in Broad-
way. The majority bear coats of arms; strange
devices for the most part, which would send Garter,
Rouge, and Dragon, into fits. But they have their
meaning. They show that wealth cannot and will
not be satisfied by the mere accumulation of dollars.
Rank is the coveted object. To claim kinship with
an ancient and honourable English family is an
American's great boast. He may rave as he will
against monarchical and aristocratical institutions
and families, —his worship of a lord and love of titles
is greater than an Englishman's. New York
abounds with shops where vanity may be fitted with
coats of arms at small cost. The love for these
things is not new. Seventy years ago Americans
were lashed by Franklin and Jefferson for their
desire to establish an order of hereditary knights, in
direct opposition to the solemnly declared sense of

368

A VACATION TOUR.

their country. It was then contemplated to found
an order of the Cincinnati. " If people," says
Franklin, " can be pleased with small matters, it is
a pity but they should have them ; but I greatly
wonder, that when thr united wisdom of our nation
had, in the articles of confederation, manifested their
dislike of establishing ranks of nobility, by authority
either of the Congress or of any particular state, a
number of private persons should think proper to
distinguish themselves and their posterity from their
fellow-citizens." * The Knighthood of Cincinnatus has
no existence, but the spirit and desire for the order,
or one of a similar nature, remain. And it is wor-
thy of remark, that while Franklin was rebuking
this love for worldly honours and distinction among
his republican countrymen, he himself bore a coat
of arms of which he made habitual use. Nume-
rous letters, preserved in the archives of the Royal
Society, written by Franklin to various scientific
persons in Europe, are sealed with his arms. The
crest, a Jislis head in pale, or, erased gules, between
two sprigs vert, is identical with that of the L'ncoln-
shire Franklins. It further appears that Dr.

* The order was so far established, that a person was
despatched to France to procure ribands and medals to
decorate the Cincinnati.

ARISTOCRATIC PROPENSITIES. 369

Franklin was at much pains to search out the history
of his immediate ancestors. He traced them back
four generations, and was gratified that the name of
Franklin was anciently the common designation of
famihes of substance in England. Talking one
evemng with an American lady not unknown among
the English aristocracy, I happened to say that I
wondered at her frequent allusions to English lords
ladies, and Sirs, as I thought such people were
held in uo greater respect by Americans than their
fellows. Upon which the lady desired the servant
to bring a certain "picture " from the library, which
was placed in my hands. « There," said she, drawing
my attention to the design, which was an emblazoned
coat of arms, appertaining to her husband's English
ancestry, « this is the way we honour aristocracy in
America." Titles as high-sounding and empty as
those which puff up the vanity of Germans are
already common, and it is not unreasonable to infer
that with the growth of wealth the desire will in-
crease to make their distinctions hereditary. Jeffer-
son partly predicts this : writing to Washington, he
says : ~- « Though the day may be at some distance,
beyond the reach of our lives perhaps, yet it will
certainly come, when a single fibre left of this in-
stitution (the order of the Cincinnati), will produce

B B

370

A VACATION TOUR.

an hereditary aristocracy, which will change the
form of our government from tlio best to the worst
in the world."

The admiration and desire for social distinctions is
not confined to the man of wealth. A learned
American Professor, describing his recent visit to
London, when he attended a meeting of a scientific
society in Somerset House, states that he was some-
what overpowered by the circumstance of his being
in the ancient palace of English kings (which, by
the way, the Professor was not, as Somerset ITouse
never was a royal palace). And more recently, a
well-known New England savant has considerably
sv.artled English aristocratic propriety, by distribut-
ing among scientific societies a quarto volume, ela-
borately illustrated, and filled with glowing panegyrics
of an ancient English ramily, to which he desires to
be linked.

Let me not be misunderstood. I do not blame
Americans for these aristocratic propensities. To
rise above our fellows is natural to humanity. Social
equality is an impossibility ; and without ambition a
nation cannot become great. But knowing by
experience how dearly aristocracy is prized by most
American?, it is not unreasonable to ask them to be
more consistent ; and whilst they paint their coach

THE CRYSTAL PALACE-

•t I

panels with cunning devices, which would ^uzzlo
Garter himself to decipher; let them not, though
secretly loving the pride of birth and long descent,
openly revile English aristocracy.

An energetic attempt had been made a short time
before I visited New York, to infuse new life into
the Crystal Palace. It had been re-inaugurated,
under the presidency of Mr. Barnum, when, as the
report sets forth, surrounded by « bright faces of
beauty and mtelligence, shining amid the gay colours
of the present fashion of ladies dresses," the great
showman delivered a wonderful speech, in which
after promising all conceivable and inconceivable'
benefits to those supporting the Exhibition, he
added : « We hope to bring forth our new race of
heroes - heroe. in art - conquerors upon the battle-
field of labour -victors in the sublime struggle of
handicraft and intellect, with ignorance and inertia.
We hope to make such heroes of you industrials,
who listen to me, to immortalise you m the immor-
talisation of our age and nation. And if we cannot
have you canonised in Notre Dame or St. Paul's, we
shall find you a resting-place in the calhed-al
cloisters of the human heart, wherever genius may
be known, or science may win a hopeful idolater."

B B 2

it'
4

372

A VACATION TOUR.

But neither Mr. Barnum's speech, nor the prize ode
which commenced : —

"Lo! the transitory darkness
From our palace floats away ;
Lo ! the glorious gems of genius,
Glitter in the rising day," —

had any vivifying effect. The New York Crystal
Palace was a commercial failure in the first instance,
and continued a failure to the end of its career. It has
not been, however, destitute of utility. The British
commissioners appointed to visit it report, — " In its
general character the Exhibition at New York may
he said to be successful. The lessons conveyed in
the contributions from Europe cannot, we believe,
fail to exercise a beneficial influence over the taste,
skill, and industry of the United States."

Though I did not expect to be much gratified, I
conceived it to be my duty to visit the Exhibition.
It is situated in Reservoir Square, between the Sixth
Avenue and ^he Croton distributing reservoir, four
miles from the Battery. Forty-two streets, or blocks,
occupy this space ; but the city is fast growing to
much more lengthy proportions, and already the one
hundred and eightieth street is laid down on the
plans. Railway omnibuses obviate some of the in-
conveniences arising from this rapid expansion, and

THE CKYSTAL PALACE.

373

are delightful modes of locomotion. They consist of
huge cars with roomy seats, drawn by two horses,
and are of course devoid of that dislocatory motion,
for which omnibuses generally are celebrated.

I was informed, however, that the rails running
along the streets are a great inconvenience to
carriages and horses. I availed myself of one of
these railway omnibuses to go to the Jrystal
Palace. The building is in the form of a Greek cross,
surmounted by a dome 100 feet in diameter. The
materials employed to construct it, show its relation-
ship to our first Crystal Palace at Hyde Park.
On entering I beheld a huge mountain-like object
swelling beneath the dome. It proved to be a balloon
in a semi-collapsed state, typical of the fortunes of the
Exhibition. The objects on view were principally of
American manufacture. In the department of
Machinery there were several curious and interesting

inventions.

The number and variety of machines for econo-
mising human labour were very remarkable ; among
them I observed an ingenious contrivance for clean-
ing vaults and cesspools, used by the New York
Pneumatic Draining Company. It is worked by
steam, and empties a cesspool in a few minutes
without occasioning any disagreeable effluvium.

It u 8

374

A VACATION TOUR.

The great advantages arising from division of
labour are nowhere better understood than in
America. The manufacture of umbrellas and para-
sols in New York is an instructive example how
fully this is carried out. The production of these
articles is chiefly confined to seven firms, who by the
aid of very curious and ingenious machinery, manu-
facture annually about 1,500,000 dollars worth.
One establishment employs 325 persons, including
250 girls. During a considerable portion of the
year, from 1200 to 1500 umbrellas and parasols are
turned out daily. Each umbrella consist of 112
different parts, and in the course of construction
passes through near!} as many hands.

A large collection of pictures occupied one of the
galleries ; these were contributed by various countries.
I observe the British commissioners express an
opinion that the art of landscape-painting bids fair to
flourish in North America. At present the distance
between mediocrity and excellence in this department
of art is very great.

On leaving the Exhibition I visited the Croton
Reservoir, which is certainly a noble monument to
Hygeia. No city in the world is more abundantly
supplied with pure water than New York, and it is
estimated that the quantity is equal to supply a

THE ASTOR LIBRARY.

375

population five times larger than that at present
existing. The great number of fires in the city
renders it absolutely necessary to have mains through
all the streets. The city fire companies employ
4515 men. During the year ending October, 1854,
there were 385 fires in New York, involvinrr a loss
of 827,012 dollars. One half of the fires are attri-
buted to incendiaries.

On my way back I visited the Astor Library,
recently completed. The building is of Byzantine
architecture. The interior consists of a noble apart-
ment 100 feet long, 64 wide, and 50 high, at
present containing 80,000 volumes. This number
will soon be increased to 1 00,000. The books are
'-sry accessible. Any person above fourteen years
of age is allowed to visit the library daily (excepting
Sundays) between 10 and 5. There are other public
libraries, but that founded by the munificence of
Mr. Astor bids fair to become the largest in the city.

New York has the character of being the gayest
city in the Union after New Orleans. Certainly
there is no want of public amusements. I took
advantage of the new opera-house being open to see
it, and hear Grisi and Mario. This building is not as
large as Co vent Garden, and it appears even smaller
than it is on account of the heavy ornaments with

u u 4

376

A VACATION TOUR.

which it is decorated. There are only twelve
private boxes. The audience consisted as usual of a
great diversity of people. Ladies in elegant and
rich toilettes were seated next to others in their
morning dresses and bonnets, while gentlemen in
coloured costumes made a pleasant variety. But
grander toilettes preponderated, and I have no doubt
that when "cod aristocracy" is exchanged for
something better, we shall see coloured trowsers as
strictly excluded from the Opera at New York as
they are from that in London. Grisi and Mario
have not excited the furore in America that was
expected. They, however, laboured under the dis-
advantage of not being Barnumised. Yet trumpets
sounded loud paeans in their praise. Here is a
specimen of these blasts from the press. " Per-
sonally Madame Grisi is an eye-filling woman, a
sumptuous creature, who should be brought in upon
a silver-gilt salver, as Jael brought forth butter upon
a lordly dish. Her brow broadens beautifully over
her ox-like eyes, and her head is set upon her neck
like Juno's."

On the night of my visit to the Opera, when Norma
was performed, the house was about two-thirds full.
Mario sang charmingly, but Grisi's voice was not
in the best condition. The encores were favf. It

NEW YORK THEATKES.

377

would seem that the New Yorkers are fond of music,
for an English troupe were about to perform a series
of operas while the Italian Opera was open. I
observed that although the theatres are closed for
scenic performances on Sundays, concerts are held
in them. An advertisement that would do honour
to Barnum, and which perhaps emanated from him,
informed the public that, " The managers of the
splendid new Metropolitan Theatre have decided to
open it on Sunday evenings for the execution of
sacred music, vocal and instrumental. Thus per-
sons who have religious scruples against theatrical
performances, will have an opportunity of enjoy-
ing a sight of the theatre, and at the same time
listening to the best works of the great sacred com-
posers."

I saw Forrest at this house ; but it is right to add,
I went to see the theatre and audience, which
crammed the building to suifocation, and not the
actor. An hour was amply sufficient to satisfy me
that he has not improved since his visit to London.
I was much more entertained by Christy's minstrels,
who sing negro melodies very sweetly, and are
inimitable buffoons. On leaving this very popular
resort, which the tourist should on no account omit
visiting, I went with u friend to Taylor's Ke-

378

A VACATION TOUR.

staurant, where some three or four hundred persons
were supping ; it is an enormous establishment, fitted
up like a Parisian caf4 ; but far larger than any
place of the kind in Paris. Ladies were partaking
of refreshments unattended by gentlemen; this is
not at all uncommon in New York. One day that
I dined at the magnificent and sumptuous Brevoort
House with a friend, ladies came into the coffee-
room, ordered recherchd dinners, which they eat a
little too speedily for English taste, and departed,
without attracting the slightest notice from any one,
I believe, but myself. The great deference and
respect paid to the fair sex in America, is no
where more conspicuous than in New York. A
lady, young, pretty, and dressed in the gayest
costume, may walk through the streets at all hours
of the day and night, without running the slightest
risk of being annoyed. This is a fact highly honour-
able to New York ; and it is equally honourable that
she will not see those humihating and sad spectacles
of an erring sister's shame, which stamp our streets
with disgraceful singularity. Let it not be ima-
gined, however, that New York is a virtuous city ;
I believe, from all I heard, it is far otherwise;
but there, as at Paris, profligacy docs not offend
the eye.

CLEVER YANKEE BAIT.

379

Besides Taylor's Restaurant, there are a great
variety of supper rooms of all grades, in Broadway
and the adjoining streets.

A glance at these places, some of which are called
" Retreats," is sufficient to reveal their character.
The Maine law has not penetrated their depths ; an
infinite variety of liquors are sold : I read on one
placard that "Charles's celebrated London cordial
gin, is upon the sideboard of the family and the bar
of every well-regulated hotel ; by the bedside of the
sick as well as the companion of the healthy. Free
from intoxicating qualities, it is harmless in its adop-
tion. The inebriate by its use, finds it a slight
stimulant, which, while it feeds the ai)petite, gradually
weans him from the horrors of delirium, and restores
a shattered constitution I "

The bar-rooms of the St. Nicholas and other
large hotels are great curiosities. At the Astor
House, a large screen stands near the bar, on which
telegraphic despatches are posted. They are re-
newed, every few minutes, and attract a great
immber of persons, who step out of the human
current flowing through tlie Broadway, to see the
latest news,— and "to liquor." This is a clever device,
which succeeds well; for I observed that the bar,
with its tempting array of bottles and lumps of

3«0

A VACATION TOUR.

sparkling ice, possessed as much attraction as the
screen.

The extraordinary development of the electric
telegraph in the United States may be seen to great
perfection in New York. The nine leading news-
papers, under the designation of the New York
Associated Press, although differing greatly in
politics, combine to pay for daily telegraphic com-
munications. The annual sum paid averages 8000/.
European intelligence is telegraphed from Halifax,
by the mail steamers touching at that port, and
transmitted in the first instance to New York, and
thence throughout the States. Thus, my name as a
passenger in the America, appeared in the New
York papers before I landed in the States, and the
arrival of the steamer at Halifax was known at
New Orleans before she entered Boston harbour.
The length of the telegraph between Halifax and
New York is 700 miles.

The principal commercial houses expend about
fourteen pounds a month for telegraphic messages be-
tween Boston and New York. There are two sepa-
rate lines, connecting New York with New Orleans,
one running along the sea board, the other through the
interior to the Mississippi, each about 2000 miles long.
Messages have been transmitted this distance, and

THE ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH. 381

answers received, in the space of three hours, though
they had necessarily to be written several times in
the course of transmission. When the contemplated
lines connecting California with New York and
Newfoundland are completed, San Francisco will be
in direct communication with St. John's ; and if the
proposed submarine telegraph from Cape Race to
Ireland, which has received the approval of several,
leading New York merchants, be laid down, intelli-
gence may be conveyed from the Pacific to Europe
in a few hours. The average cost of erecting
telegraph lines in America is 35/. per mile. The
tariff for despatches is about two shillings per 200
miles for ten words. In 1854 the aggregate length
of the telegraph lines in the United States was
16,735 miles.

An interesting adaptation of the electric telegraph
has been recently made, for the purpose of conveying
signals of alarm and intelligence in the case of fire.
The system has been very completely developed at
Boston, and is thus described: " The city is divided
into seven districts, each provided with a powerful
alarm bell. Every district contains several stations,
varying in number according to its size and popu-
lation. There are altogether forty-two stations.
These are connected with a chief central office, to

382

▲ VACATION TOUR.

which intelligence of fire is conveyed, and from
which the alarm is given ; two telegraph wires are
employed, a return wire being used to complete the
circuit, and provide as completely as possible against
accidental interruption or confusion."

" At each of the 42 stations, which are placed at
intervals of 100 rods throughout the city, there is
erected in some conspicuous position a cast-iron box,
containing the apparatus for conveying intelligence
to the central office ; the box is kept locked, but the
key is always to be found in the custody of some
person in the neighbourhood, whose address is painted
on the box-door. On opening this door, access is
gained to a handle, which is directed, by a notice
painted above it, to be turned slowly several times ;
the handle turns a wheel that carries a certain
number of teeth, arranged in two groups, the number
of teeth in one representing the district, in the other
the station : these teeth act upon a signal key closing
£;nd breaking the circuit connected with the central
office as many times as there are teeth in the wheel.
Signals are thus conveyed to the central office, and,
by striking the signal bell a certain number of times,
the district and station from which the signal is made
is indicated. An attendant is always on the watch
at the central office, and on his attention being car^^vi

TELEGRAPHIC EMrLOY^.8.

383

to the signals by the striking of a large call bell, he
immediately sets in motion his alarm apparatus, and
by depressing his telegraph key, causes all the alarm
bells of the seven districts to toll as many times in
quictt. succession, as will indicate the district rt'here
the fire h.ns occurred."

Morse's telegraph is in general use throughout the
States ; fourteen thousand miles were worked on his
system in 1854. The cost of a Morse register is forty
dollars. Many of the telegraphic employes are so
expert that they understand messages by the mere
click of the armature. Women are frequently em-
ployed in the telegraphic offices, a practice which I
am happy to say has been imitated in England. It
is surely a wise measure to allow females in humble
life to participate in such offices of light labour, for
which they may be physically adapted ; for besides
enabling them to earn an honourable independence
by useful occupations, a larger proportion of men are
at liberty to pursue callings for which the weaker
sex are unfitted. Nations are benefited by this
judicious division of labour; and I have often thought,
when contemplating troops of men employed in our
shops, on the unmanly, and — for men — unseemly,
work of unrolling silks and displaying muslins, how
far better it would be were they to resign their

384

V VACATION TOUR.

effeminate occupation into the hands of women,
for whom it seems specially designed, and make
their physical and moral energies available on
more masculine pursuits ; if not in England, at
all events new countries, where men are much
wanted.

There are 44| per cent, of the female population
of Great Britain unmarried, and, if we except the
generally wretched occupation of governess, it would
be difTicult to point out roads to honourable indepen-
dence for the many thousands of young females;
well educated, it may be, and even accomplished, who
are heavy burdens to their parents, and whose exist-
ence, for the want of occupation, is alike miserable and
objectless.

Among the sights with which I was most struck
at New York, was the perpetual marchings of the
volunteer and militia corps ; con^panies of these
forces are in the habit of going to neighbouring
localities for drill and rifle practice, on which occa-
sions they are accompanied by a band and two or
three black men, who act as servants during the
dinner which generally follows. The uniform of
some of these volunteers is very droll, but the most
fantastical is that of the Harlequin Corps, in which
every member is permitted to wear whatever costume

UNITED STATES ARMY.

385

women,
id iiitike
lablo on
;land, at
re much

opulation
xcept the
it would
indepen-
females ;
hed, who
)se exist-
'able and

5t struck
s of the
)f these
ibouring
:ch occa-
L two or
ring the
iform of
the most
n which
costume

ho fancies. I saw this corps march down Broadway,
preceded by their captain mounted on a scraggy
Rozinante. No two uniforms were alike, while all
were of the most extraordinary shape and hues. It
is not a little remarkable that a people so eminently
commercial as are the American, should be so fond
of military pursuits. The standing army of the
United States consists of 10,243 officers and privates ;
the militia of 2,259,037 men. But with this military
spirit, which extends through every State, the people
seeming to be " playing at soldiers*," so habitual is
drill and parade among them, it is difficult to recruit
for the standing army, although the pay has lately been
raised. The walls of New York were covered with
advertisements to the following eflfect : *' Wanted for
tlie United States Army, able-bodied, unmarried men,
between the ages of eighteen and thirty-five ; not less
than 5ft. 4in. high, and of good character. The term of
service is five years ; and if a soldier re-enlists at the
expiration of that time, his pay will be increased two
dollars per month for the first re-enlistment, and he
will receive a further addition of owe dollar p^r month

* The love for titles may be doubtless adduced as one
reason for the popularity of ihe militia service in the United

States.

386

A VACATION TOUR.

for all subsequent re-enlistments. By good conduct
and attention to duty a ^.oldier will certainly rise to
the position of a non-co nmissioned officer, and from
this class the law provides that meritorious men may
be selected for promotion to the rank of commissioned
officers of the army."

The present scale of pay is, infantry privates eleven
dollars, and dragoons twelve dollars per month, exclu-
sive of one ration daily, clothing, quarters, fuel, and
medical attendance.

If a soldier becomes disabled in the performance of
his duties, he is accorded a pension ; or he may, if he
prefer it, obtain admission into the Military Asylum,
which will afford him a comfortable home.

Active measures were also being taken to procure
seamen for the na^y at the different naval ports.
With this view the pay had been raised to fourteen
dollars a month.

Among the sights of New York, the advent of
emigrants must not be forgotten. At all hours of
the day troops of newly- landed foreigners may be
seen in the lower part of the city, wandering through
the streets, tlie prey of designing parties, who reap
a rich harvest by them. The preponderance of
Germans is remarkable; in 1854,460,474 emigrants
arrived in the United States ; of whom 49,000 were

AMERICAN PARTY MANIFESTO.

387

from Great Britain; 101,600 from Ireland; and
206,000 from Germany.

It is doubtful whether these high numbers will be
maintained. For, besides the serious diminution in
the population of Ireland, which has hitherto yielded
a large supply of emigrants, the Know-Nothings, or
American Party as they now call themselves, are
labouring hard af New York to check the tide of
emigration among Roman Catholics from Ireland,
and apparently with some success, as the number of
Irish who landed at New York in March, 1855, was
considerably less than the arrivals in March of the
preceding year.

A manifesto, couched in the usual " tall " language
of American national documents, has been recently
issued by this party ; and as it has been adopted by
all their councils in the State of New York, we may
accept it as the exponent of their principles. After
insisting on native Americans taking the government
of their country into their own hands to the entire
exclusion of all foreigners, and particularly of Roman
Catholics, they condemn in the strongest language
the policy of Congress, wiiich proclaims the public
lands to be the heritage of foreigners, " at a time
when nearly half-a-million of persons in each year
are pouring the flood of ignorance, vice, and crime.

c C 2

388

A VACATION TOUR,

and, in its best ingredients, of distinct and ungenial
nationalities, into the heart of the United States."
Alhision is then made to Roman Catholics, and a
strong determination is xpressed to take a decided
stand against the political action of the Church of
Rome.

In taking leave of this very curious party, who bid
fair to control the destinies of the vast country
throughout which their influence is felt, it is evident
that if intolerance be practised, emigration will bo
checked ; and tliough we must admire the desire ex-
pressed to recur to the original constitution of the
United States, it is impossible to avoid apprehending
that a party avowedly " more or less secret in action,
and almost altogether secret in the source from which
it derives its counsel and design," may act, if en-
dowed with power, in a manner totally opposed to
Christian principles. To shut the gates of the New
World against emigrants would be to stay the march
of civilisation, which must ever be preceded by the
sturdy pioneers who with great toil and privation
obey the scriptural precept, which bids man replenish
the earth and subdue it.

Unless tlie tourist be sorely pressed for time, he
should not omit making an excursion to Staten
Island six miles from New York. It is a favourite

STATEN ISLAND.

389

resort of merchants, who occupy charming villas on
its wooded heights. I spent an afternoon and even-
ing in one of these pleasant abodes. A huge steam-
ferrj, constructed to carry 2000 people, besides ve-
hicles, plies frequently between the Battery and the
Island. The trip on a fine day in autumn, when the
air is balmy and the sun silvers the bay, is delightful.
In half-an-hour we reach the island. A short
walk from the landing-stage up the hill brought
me to my friend's house. Seldom have I seen a
more lovely view than that from the verandah.
Beyond a rich foreground of luxuriant foliage lay
Long Island, from which Staten Island is separated
by the Narrows. The bay was alive with vessels,
from stately sailing-ships and magnificent steamers,
to spruce pilot-boats and tiny fishing-craft. West-
ward, the great city, fringed by forests of masts, lay
on the waters with outstretched arms, receiving
contributions from all parts of the globe. Seen from
this point, her claim to the title of the Empire City
with the motto Excelsior cannot be disputed.

It was pleasant to close my impressions of America
with so fair a scene, which, as the evening deepened,
shone in golden splendour beneath the glare of the
setting sun. For the time had now arrived for me to
bid farewell to the New World, and, as I sat with my

390

A VACATION TOUR.

friends until a late hour, fanned by the night breeze,
which

" Curl'd the still waters, bright with stars,"

and watched the darting lights from the numerous
steam ferries, I thought how soon I. should be on the
wide Atlantic, speeding to my fatherland.

I had determined, on landing in America, to return
to Europe by the Collins line. But circumstances
caused me to change my plans, and I had an
additional inducement to voyage home by a Cunard
steamer, as the America was appointed to sail at the
time I proposed leaving, and the friends with whom
I had crossed the Atlantic were returning home in
that ship. This change mvolved a journey to
Boston. Accordingly, after a farewell walk up
Broadway, I left New York in the afternoon of the
10th October, and arrived at my old quarters at the
Revere House in Boston at midnight.

The following morning I called on Mr. Ticknor.
While wc were at breakfast, a servant placed a
telegraphic despatch in his hand, announcing the loss
of the Arctic, under circumstances fresh in the
remembrance of my readers. The news almost
overpowered me ; for I had a vivid remembrance of
Capo Race, wrapped in its foggy shroud, off which

SAIL FOR ENGLAND.

391

the Arctic was engulfed. And I was to be on
those dark waters in a few hours. There *vas no
time, however, for brooding over the catastrophe, as
my departure was near at hand. On returning to
the Revere, I was accosted by a gentlemanly person,
who shook me warmly by the hand, and expressed a
hope I was not going away so soon. It was the
landlord, who remembered me, though, since I had
been at Boston, he must have seen many hundreds of
fresh faces. Once more I found myself in the quaint
old carriage, rumbling through the streets to East
Boston. Again I crossed the ferry, and there, where
last I saw her, lay the America, her steam up, and
the round faces of the jolly sailors peering over the
bulwarks. Shall I be deemed w eak, if I confess my
heart swelled with joy when I saw the flag of dear
old England waving above me. The fate of the Arctic
was a terrible reality, which, considered in connection
with accidents to other ships of the Collins line of a
less ruinous nature, made me feel glad I was in an
English steamer. Nor had I any reason to regret
returning home in the America. We sailed at noon
on the Uth October, with a fine steady breeze from
the west, and I believe, with the exception of the few
hours we were in Halifax harbour, we did not take
in sail until we were off Holyhead. The voyage was

392

A VACATION TOUR.

most prosperous. One incident alone occurred
worthy of mention. A female passenger, who was
very ill when she em'oarked, died on the second day
of the voyage. I was not aware of the circumstance.
We had just finished dinner, when the captain, next
to whom I was sitting, suddenly rose, stating he was
obliged to leave us to attend a funeral. It was a
startling announcement. We followed him. A rude
coffin, partly shrouded by the folds of the Union
Jack, rested on a plank. The surgeon, a few saJlors,
and ourselves stood around. The former read the
funeral service,— solemn on all occasions, but more
impressive at sea than on land. At the words « we
commit her body to the deep," a splash was heard,
and all was over. Yet no, for

" Not one life shall be deatroy'd,
Or cast as rubbish to the void;"

and, suggestive of the bright hope of immortality, as
the coffin plunged into the sea, the dark clouds which
obscured the west were momentarily lifted above the
horizon, and broad beams of golden light illumined
the heaving w. ters.

On Sunday, October 22nd, as we were running up
the Irish Channel, a squall sprung up, which carried

CONCLUSION

393

away two of our sails, and made a "hurricane of
harps" through the shrouds. The damage was
quickly repaired; and the wind continuing favour-
able, we were soon off Holyhead, where we took in
a pilot. The ship pitched so violently, that few
passengers appeared at breakfast, or attended divine
service, which appropriately included the impressive
Psalm, " They that go down to the sea in ships, and
occupy their business in great waters, these men
see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the
deep."

Under the lee of the Welsh coast the sea was
smoother. Onwards sped our gallant ship until we
arrived in the Mersey : —

" Oh dream of joy ! is this indeed
The lighthouse top I see ?
Is this the hill, is this the kirk ?
Is this mine own countree ? "

My pilgrimage was now nearly over. A few hours
restored me to my London home, after an absence
of exactly twelve weeks; during which time I
had voyaged and travelled 10,700 miles. Before
parting with the reader, who may feel inclined to
devote a vacation to such a tour as I enjoyed, I wish
to impress him with the fact that America is not a

D D

394

A VACATION TOUR.

country " for sheathing nerves worn bare by anxiety/'
or "uncrumpling a soul wrinkled by crosses." So, if
he be weak in spirit or body— for travel in the United
States, particularly in summer time, is not as easy as
continental touring,— I cannot advise him to cross the
Atlantic ; but if, on the other hand, he be blest with
a strong constitution and a placid temper, he will not
regret devoting a few months to North America,
where he will see «a mighty people triumphing
in the splendour of immeasurable habitation, and
haughty with hope of endless progress and irresistible
V power."

■

THE END.

London :
A. and G. A. Spotti8Woodb,
New-strcet-Sqnare.