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Thence along both banks of the St. Law- fence, from Hamilton to the Thousand Islands ; thence to Sacket's Harbor by ^ wafer ; from that place by the route of great Sodns, Geiieva, Cnnandaigtia, and Batavi.'i, to BuiTalo ; and from thence to Black Rock, Fort Erie, the Falls of JN'i- -if^ara, Quceustown, Lewistun, and the memorable fields of BridKT,Yr^. -iTm* tiOUTHKRN DISTRICT OF NKW-YOKK, ss. Bi: IT UF.MEMBKRED, Tliatonflie sixlmith dav of Jflnuarr, ill Jlip F'oilv-tlurd venrof the Intlepnndc'iicc of the t^nited Stntes ot Ameiicn', A. 1). JBIO, WILLIAM IJAKBV, of the said district, hnth deposited in this idfice the Title of a Huok, the rij^ht whereof he claims as Proprietor, in the words following, to wit : '' A Tour from the City of New- York, to Detroit, in the Michigan Territory, mmle between the 2d of Mav, and the T2il of September, I«18, The Tour ex- tends from iNew-York, by Albany, Schenectady, and Utica, to Sacket's Harbor, jmkJ thence throii^^h Lake Ontario, to St. Lawrence river, and down that stream to Hamilton villasfc. Thence alongboth banks of the St. Lawrence, from Ha- milton to the 'Ihpnsand Islands ; thence to Sacket's Harbor by water ; from that !)lace by the route of great So*!iis, Geneva, Canandaij^ua, atid Batavia, to Buifu- o ; and from thence to Black Rock, Fort Krie,the Falls of Niagara, Qneenstown, X.ewiston, and tlie memorable fields of Bridgewatcr and Chippewa. After view- ing' the interesting pass of Niagara, the author traversed the south shore of Lake Erie to the Cily of Detroit, and visited in the latter range Dunkirk, Frie, Cleveland, Sandusky, and otlier places of less note. The Tour contains noticeii of what fell under the author's observation concerning the natural liistory and geography of the region over which his travels extended, with brief remarks upon such remarkable events and ch aracters as have contributed to give interest to different places. The Tour is accompanied with a Map u|)on which the route will be designated ; a particular Map ol the Falls and River of Niagara, and the environs oi the City of Detroit. By William Dahbv, Member of the New- York Historical Society. Author of a Map and Statistical Account oi Louisia- na ; and Emigrant's Guklc." Li conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled, " An Act for the encourageiwent of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, during the time there- in mentioned." — And also to the Act, enti'led, " An Act suppleincutary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, du- ring the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to th6 arts of uusignitig, engraving, and etching historical and other prints." JAMES DILL, Clerk of the Southern District of New- York. 84' * » ti I xerajrijed myself in mtj cloak, and lay dorvn under a laurel, on the bank of the Eurolas. The night teas so pure and so serene, and the milky way shed such a light, reflected by the current of the river, that you might see to read by it. J fell asleep with my eyes fared upon the heavens, having the leant ful constellalion of Leda*s swan exactly over my head. 1 still recollect the pleasure which I formerly received from llms reposing in the woods of America, and especially from awaking in the middle of the night. I listened to the whist- ling of the wind through the rvilderness ^ the braying of the does and stags ; the roar of a distant cataract; while the embers qf my half extinguished f re, glowed between the foli- age of the trtes. J loved even to hear the voice of the Iro- quois, lohen he shouted in the recesses of his forests, and when, in the brilliant star-light, amid the silence of nature, he seem- ed to be proclaiming his unbounded liberty. Ml this may af- ford delight at twenty ; because, then life suffices, in a man- ner, for itself, and there is in early youth, a certain restless- iiess aiid inquietude, which incessantly encourage the creation of chimeras, ipsi sibi soniuiaiingunt: but in maturerage, the mind contracts a relish for more solid pursuits, and lores, in particular, to dwell on the illustrious examjtles recorded in history. Gladly would 1 again make my couch on the banks of the Eurotas, or the Jordan, if the heroic shades of the three hundred Spartans, or the txcelve sons of Jacob, were to visit my slmubers ; but I would not go again (o explore a vir- ^in soil, which the ploughshare has never lacerated. Give n^e now ancient deserts, where I can conjure up at pleasure. Ihc wulb nf lidbiiloiif ov Ihc kgions of- VUarmlia — j^iaiMlhi u%\\ ; lilaiuH ulwae J'uvvotvs conrnj iualrudion, umi u-hnrt mortal us J ««/, i Irnvc the bii.'jil, tlulmrb, and (he aueutf oj' Iniman kind.*'* I caniiut cuncrivi* iIm; HaliHfaction it <".m give, (o u f^cnermiB and It-C'ling heart to (race (lie lusl IVa^iiioiiis of a ruined ci- 1^', 01' bchoM ivdiicfd !o desolation, fields that unec >vaved in golden Ijarvesl. To the eve oi* reason and philosopliv, n re- ^iew hmy be de&irulile of the levoiutionti ol' litinian society" in all the various staf^es iVnni the sava};e liurde to the most refined eivilizulion ; Ixit tome, it would ^ieltl more pain than )>,ratilication, to behold Home, Athens, or Jt ruMitlem, in dust und usiies. The reminiseence (hat should reuul ibi iisei* great- ness, that would laiwe in iina;;inalion li'om the tomb the Peri- eles, Euripides. ^Jaeeabeea, the Seipios or the Ciesars, would exeile, lather a tear ol* bittce regret, than a ph'asing sentiment of poetic enthusiasm, on gluneing over tlie ocean of past time. 1 would rather indulge m^' faixj in folhiwing tiie future progress, than in surveying the. wreck of human happiness; 1 would rather see one ilourishing village rising iVoui the American wilderness, than behold the ruins of Bal- bee. Palmyra, and Perse|M»lis. Like Chateaubriand, I have often reposed hi the woods and jdains of JS'*orlh Jimerica, in the silence of night, under the glances of the swan of lA'da, the gleasus of Sirius, or the beams of the pale moon plaving amid the leaves of the fo- rest, or exhibiting the fail'}' picture of the distant prairie. 1 have thus often in the awful solitude of the cane brake, or the cedar groves, contemplated the rapid march of active industry; I have fancied the rise of towns and villages, the clearing of fields, the creation of rich harvests, of orchards, meadows, and pastures. I have beheld the dee » gloom around l)ic dispelled, the majestic but dreary forest disappeared, th«) savage MBb turned into civilized miin; schools, colIegei»« * Travels in (Jrcere, Palesline, Egypt, and Barbary, by F. A. de Chateaubriaiid; Sr.or).< !!'>; tianslatioiij .N. Y. p. loy. '■' # >'^ PnKl'ACE. ciiui'choSt ami Icj^iilutivo IihIIh arose. The river, upon whoso ImiilvH now i^H'W the (an;.;;h'\i(li barkii load- ed with (he produoc ui' ils chores; I heard the Mon^$i of joy and i^luihirss ; I helii'hl i',uv neienee shed Jier sinih'H upon a Itappy and enlt,:;hlened people; 1 beheld the heavenly I'ornt ol' relip;ion, elothed in the !iini|)le f^arh ol* luve and truth, teachin.'; lliu preecpts of present and everlasJin^ peaee ; I »a\v lili<-r(y and law inlerposin;^ between (he shai'ts ui* o]i> pression and liiehusoni of innoeene<> ; — anlt amongst »• bi'vUcn co- Inmns and lUs^joiucd arcniUs." 1 have seen on an ininitnso surface, these warm anticipations realized. In west >'irj:;i- i)ia, in west Pennsylvania, in Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illi- nois, Tennessee, Missouri, ]Mississ;p{)i, Louisiana,-, and Ala- hania ; in west New-York, Michigan, and in Canada, 1 have for thirty-iive years, been a witness to the change of a wil- jec^s tliut are constantly bcfot«e the mental eye, in tfeird linn of the note, for " this latter ciratrnsiuneef was, Jiowiter, no ^/oh/<<," read, .this latter circumstance \yas no doubt. Page 37, 9th line fro«n the top, for "//wn the margin dell," rend from (he mar-' gin. Pnje 55, fo'.irth line from the top, for f* city ofUtka" read, towri of Li'tica. Page 59, line 12th from the top, for *^ colonial," rn«d, colloquial. Page 61, third line frorfittlie top, for " producing effects," read, which produced effects. ' . ' ' ' Page 72, line Uth from the bottom, for " sj'tfe iiwrf," read, land side. *" Page 7.3, lines four and five from the bottom, for " te« or h(;e/vemi/(y," read, two or throe miles. Page 91, line 15th frorti the fop, for " tatiddings," read muddincns. Page 118; I tliere mention an intention to note the comparative quantity of wate.- in the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi rivers, but have omitted that of the latter ; the reader will please substitute for (" seb appendix, No. 2,") 'the following words, applied to the Mi&9i|ssippi : " We may imagine a scmi-eHipsis, whose longitudinal diameter ve presents the river's breadth, and whose lon^st ordinate, its depth ; allow 1,50 feet as the length of the ordinate line, or depth of water at the greatest elevation, and 2,400 feet as the extent of the elliptical diameter or riverV breadth, we are confident, that those constituent principles will give a very correct result. From the ap- plication of the above elements, 141,372 cubic feet would be contained within one foot longitudinal section nf the river. At the rate of one mile an iiuur, 5,2C0 feet in lengtb would be discharged every hour, or 746,444,160 cubic feet, of the entire mass." [Darby's Lofiiniana, JS". Y.Ed. p. 56. P^161, line 19th from the top, for «, G. D. C. ; W. P." read, G. D. G* j A. T.G.; audW.P.&ic. Page 169,!line 7th from the bottom, for October '-8tt,l8I4," read, October 12th, 1812 '; atid bottom line, for " Real" read, Rial. Page 212, line 4th from top, for " Mr. Isaac Kibbe," read, Mr. V'.toe. Mr. Isaac Kibbe is the brother of the gentleman of that name, who keeps a public ino, in the town of Buffalo. 1 from llie mar-* irii ot litica. irhich prbiliiced side. '»• ive quantity of omitted that of :, No. 2,") 'the • re presents the l/)0 feet as the Rtion, and 2,400 i are confiden t From the ap- mtained within mile an i^our, ',160 cubic feet, r F. m. p. 56. D.O.jA.T.G.; , October 12th, 'oe. Mr. Isaac public iivD, in i;tf >'-M'HK A TOUR FROM ^E^V-YORK TO DETROIT. i : LETTER 1. Mhany, May 3(f, 18 IS. I Deak Sir, Amid the violence of wind and rain, I arrived in thii^ city at 5 o'clock this afternoon. Though spring has made some advances near New-York, here llie face of nature is marked with all the bleakness of winter, except snow. At this season, no scenery can exhibit a more dreary aspect than that of the Hudson ; naked roeks or precipices, witli a few leafless forest trees, are the only objecv"iose teints can only be for- gotten when my bosom ceases to beat. Environed by tlie massy and sublime monuments reared by the hand of nature, and enjoying tho softened beauty of such an evening, I could not repress a retrospection upon the march of time ; I could not avoid reilecling that an epoch did exist, when ihe delightful vaiiey in which I then sat was an expanse of waier ; that the winding and contracting gorge, through which the Hudson now iluws, did not exist, or was (lie scene of another Niagara ; I belield the lake disappear, t!»c roar of the cataract had ceased, the enor- mous rocky barriers had yielded to the impetuous flood. The river now glides smooth and tranquil, in its passage through this glen, dark and deep. The Mar of elements have subsided. The ntountains have apparently separated; and given the waters free egress to the ocean. In order to have ample means of reviewing this region, to as much advantage as possible, I hired a man to convey me in a sail boat, from Fishkill landing to West-Point ; and on the morning of the 22d, passed the Narrows with a light Avind. A slight mist floated over the highest peaks of the mountains, but below the air was clear and pleasant. Ap- j)roa»;hi!ig the most confined part of the passage, the vast granitic ledges seemed to raise their frowning projections to the clouds, the trees upon thdr summits appear like shrubs. ■ 'i,.iV LET. LET. I.] WKST-rolNT. 1.; o In the intcpvcning vales or raHjur ravines, tlie fislicrmnii and wooiIcuKer havenarod fhcir hiils ,• (he eurliu;; smoke is seen issuing from cabins ctnbusoiiicd uuiid (liesc nigged rocks. ">V«'8(-Point present! d ils structures perched upon a small cape of level land, hut every viiere surrounded by masses thai seemed to mock timcit.cif. I landed, and rose the winding path that led to this ever memonible spot y^ a place that was the scene of some of * Whilst preparing these sheets for publication, Ihc folIoAviiig elegant lines appeared in the Columbian, from the pen of Dr. Van Gelder, of New- York. I could not deny my readers the pleasure of readipj so fine a description of the grandeur, even in ruins^ of Fort Putnam. ON THE RUINS OF FOIIT PUTNAM, WEST-POINT. Dreary and lone as the scenes that surround thco, Thy battlements rise 'mi(' the crags of the wild, Yet dear are thy ruins, for bjiiihtly around thee 'Twas here tl"? first dawn of our Liberty sniil'd. But lonely's thy terrace — thy walls are forsaken, In ruins around thy proud ramparts are low, And never again shall thy cannon awaken The echo that sleeps in the vallies below. Silence now reigns thy dark ruins among. Where once linill'd the fife and the war-drum beutloud^ Now the scream of the eaglet slow gliding along, Alone sends its note from the misls of the cloud. But where are the heroes whose home once was here, When the legions of Tyranny ])eopled our shore — Wlio here rais'd the standard to Freedom so dear, And guarded their home 'mid the battle's fierce roar ? . They sleep in yon vale — their rude fortress below, Where darkly the shade of the cedar is fipread^ And hoarse through the valley the mountain-winds blow, Where lowly they rest in the sleep of the dead. The flowers of the forest have brighten'd that spot, The wild rose lias scattered its binom o'er that ground Where lonely thry lie — now forgetting — forgot — Unawak'd by the mountain-storm thundering around. k .' ii MEST-POIM* [let. t* in 1 the most reiiiiiikablc events oP on* unequalled revulution. It was lieitf (hat Aniold's lrcaeliei7 wan met by the stern virtue ol' Wasliinj;lon ; il was near this place that Andre ex- piated his fully with his life, and !;uiiied an imniurtal name hy an i£;;?iominious death. West-Point presents but little that ean interest tlie travel- ler, exeept it he the nohle seenery of its neiglihorhoud, and events of hisfurieal reminisccnee. The barraeks ol' the olli- eers atid cadets, with a lew scattering houses belonging to individuals, are all the artifuial improvements worth nolico at this establishment. The hank is high) and very abrupt from tiie surlaee of the water in the river, to the level of the plain upou which the barracks aud houses are built. AVith considerable fatigue, I scrambled 'ip the mountain to the ruins of Fort Putnam. Silence and delapidation now reign over this once important Fortress. It would be dilli' cult to conceive of a more impregnable position. Seated upon an elevated mass of granite, the Fort cccupied almost the entire surface upon wliich a human foot could be set. A very steep ascent, of more than .^00 perpendicular feet, leads from the plain of AVest-Point to the scite of the Fort, and a «^'ep rock hound valley, separates it from the genc!*aJ mass of tiK! adjacent mountains. A cistern had been hewed out of the solid granite, which was full of water when I visti'd the spot. Cannon placed upon the walls of this Fort, could rake the entii-e surface of "West-Point; but I could not perceive any serious ojiposilion it could hivve presented to the passage of ships of war, ascending ov descending the Iliidsoii river. The landscape from the ruined bntdentents of Fort Put- nam, is very interesting. The Fishkill mountainis seen from this place, have a much more naked and rude aspect, than from either New burg or Fishkill landing. Except upofi the opposite shore in Putnam county, but very little hu- man culture enlivens the view. ^Vest-Point has itself a sol- [let. t* vuliifion. the sk'in ndie ex- (al name If < ravel - 00(1, and the ofli- nging to th notice ;v abrupt ml or the • mountain (ion novr I be difH^ Seated (1 almost d be set. ilai' feet, he Fort, 3 gene'aJ m hewed ' when I his Fort, I couhi resented iding the »rt Put- ns seen } aspect. Except ittle hu- 'If a 5ol- ".T. 1.] rOKT-rUTXAM. 13 itary a ipearanee, and to the west, nought is sc«'ii hut woods, and n ouutains, in their primitive \^i!du('S3. If seclusion from the busy haunts of men, can Ije of any benefit to the students at AVestVoint, the enjoy this ndvan- tage in its fuMest extent. Isolated upon the eonfined cape, from which the i u.iie of the jilaee is derived, the river on one side and towevim^ mountains on the other, an ui.'.ioken Milence reigns around this seminary. Looking down from the broken walls of Fort Putnam, Dr. Johnson's Kasselas. came strong to recollection. 1 could not avoid recalling to imaginary life, ihc men who once acted on this little but re- markable theatsc. 1 felt a sentiment of awe, amid this now lonely waste, on recalling to nv'id that here once depended the fite of a new born nation. Even the fallen fragments of s(onc which once composed part of its buttresses, inspi- red me with a feeling of respect. AVashington, Greene, Putnam, Andre, and Arnold, arc no more ; their names have now taken their respective stations in history. The opinion of maikind is formed I'ipon the merits of the three former, and the shame of the two latter. It is now as far beyond the reach of calumny, to tarnish the unfading re- nown of a Washington, a Greene, or a Putnam, as it would be for the human hand to level to common earth the enor- mous masses of the Flsbkill nauntains. With slow steps I descended from the grey I'emains of this venerable pile, and east a frequent and repeated retiring look towards its mouldering turrets. The shades of evening were setting in, the darkened sides of tlie distant mountains, seem- ed to mark a sympathetic gloom with that which hung over the deserted Fortress, 'i'le busy hum of the students in their evening walks, produced an interesting contrast with the repose in which rested the surrounding scenery. Such vas the events, and the reflection of my da>'s visit to Mest- Point. 16 MANXrALTHrtfcS. [let. I. U^ Oil llio mornliij; of the 23cl. I ugniii paf«s(Ml niili cnci'cascd ndiiiii'utioi) (he Hi^ hlnids, and returned (o Fishkill hindin;^. In the afternoon I went to visit the line Faetory of Matc- owan«* owned by Messrs. SehenckN. I'he scenery near Maieowan is wihl, jneturesr"- , and pleasing. Here I first witnt ' the etfeet, produeed upon the smaller streams wiiich dovv . ) the Hudson river, from the high table land from whieh their sources are derived. Flowing over a surface, elevated many hundred feet above tide water in the Hudson, the tributary waters of that river all enter by cataracts of more or less elevation. Fishkill, (Mateowan) eommenecs its fall some distance above Messrs. SSchencVs factory, giving any desirable facility to the appli- cation of its volume, in the propulsion of machinery. This characteristic is however, general to almost all streants that fall into the Hudson from either bank, and gives to the in- habitants near the borders of that river, a facility in the con- struction of labour-saving machinery, possessed on so large a scale in few^ if any other parts of the earth. If it was possible for American industry to contend, in the present order of things, successfully against European mo- nopoly, the banks of the Hudson could become two extend- ed lines of manufacturing establishments ; but our nativu exertions wither in the presence of foreign commerce and perverted taste, Nature is slowly asserting her rights in opposition to absurdly continued custom. If habit had made us familiar v ith sending our wheat, to be converted into Hour in English mills, we would now consider bread made from this native grain and foreign machinery, in the same favourable degree of preference, we now give to muslins made in Europe, from Carolina aud Georgia cotton. If J . * Mateowrln is the Indian name of Fishkill. No nations, per- haps that ever existed, gave nnorc sonorous names to ]>laces, than the native savages of North America. It is inucli to be regretted iliat their nomenclature bad not been more generally preserved. LET. I.] TIMUUH* 17 ciicreascd I landing. of Plate- s'"* , and lecd iipoa vcr, from e derived, t't't above that I'ivei- Fi»likill, c Messrs. llie uppli- '.y. I'Lis earns tliut llic in< 1 (lie eon- so large id, in Hie pcan nio- [> extend- 1' nad'vi) eree and 'iglHs in ad made i(ed into ad made ^>c same muslins Jns, pcr- es, than c^groUed ^served . Above Fi»bkiil (he coimd'y assumes a bill)' ntid t'oeKjt but not m(»untuinous aspoei. '['bo strata are inclined in nearly paralkd direction to tlie Culskill mountains. Some limestone occurs. The general structure of the bills is, bowcver* mica slate. The soil docs not exhibit a fertile ap- pearance in general, though Dutehess eount)^ has been fam- ed for its productive crops. This character I believe Just as rcsficctii orchards and mendows. Too much of the land is cleared. A scarcity of timber strikes the eye of the traveller at every step, and the trees vbicb exist have a stinted appearance.^ * The following extract demonstrates that improvident waste of limber, and neglect to supply daily consumption, is not con- lined to butchcss county. Error, however, gains nothing but notoriety from its extent. " The Duke of Athol is now enjoying the benefit which pro- vident ancestors sometimes confer upon iheir lieirs. His (trace's estates have been hitherto considered as rather extensive, than productive ; but his forests have now attained to such a growth, that, we understand, he will be r'ble to cut timber to the amount of 20,0001. a year, we may say almost in perpetuity, as he has continued the practice of his noble father, and planted millions of trees annually." In reading the above article, we could not suppress -i feel- ing of regret at tire evident contrast presented in the oOnduct of the Duke of Athol's '^provident ancestor," to the improvi- dence of landholders generally in this country. The decrease of timber for building, fuel, &c. is already a great inconvenience, and is every day becoming more serious in the prospects growing out of it. The evil is not so much in the use or consumption oi' the timber, (although that may beunnecessarily extravagant) but in the utter neglect which appears every where to prevail, of re- pairing the devastation, by planting new trees, and taking care of the young growth. Observation has convinced us, that in no part of the coiuitry is its neglect more apparent, than in the low- er parts of Delaware, and the adjacent parts of Maryland. We mention this district of country particularly, because in travelling over it, (we allude especially to the country called the Levels, and on the Bohemia, and Sassafras rivers,) we were striick with its fine appearance, in soil, its fine strenms, and its easy access to market. It is prob.able to this last circumstance that the evil complained of may in some part, be attributed ; the high price u \nnicut/ri'uc. [r-KT. V In all (he ex(en( of 8e((It>(I country vithin (ho United Stiitest two epochs huvu pirctMkMl caeli other in the, pru^rfM*( of a;»ricuhure. In the HrHt epoch, iniitiense extent of land iii elutued of (he tiniher, and (he Noil rather tortured than euhivu(cd. This hvst,s undl (he impoveriMhed iUdds and min- ed fores(H, ohlige (he farmers (o comnieneo (he second epoeh. They now eoisio (o the point from which tliey ought to huvu set out. Thi>y now Cul(iva(c a more linii(ed extent, hut that extent hy nsanuro and a eureful routine of crops, beconie» of timber al Bnltiniorc having iiuUiccd the ]>roprictors or tenants to apply the nxo with so dovaslatiny u hand, that the ctumtry is almost bare of timber, and no elloi'ls seem to have been adopted to supply the waste. 'IMio conse(piencc of tiiis destructive habit is, that the best land in the peninsula, and as good as any ii| thceoun- try, with all its advantages from fine navigable streams will not sell for more than 15, 20, or 25 ilollais per acre, in addition to the inconvenience arising from a deficiency of fuel, and tind)er for huilding. It may be said, that the tenures by which real pro- perly is held in this country, and its frequent circulation from iianil to tiand, present an obstacle to any ])lans of pcrman(;nt im- provement, that farmers do not like to expend money, the pro- iits of which arc to be enjoyed by posterity. We would regret Jo see such an objection seriously urged, in- volving as it does a censure upon the freedom of our institutions, which arc intimately connected with the proper circulation and oquilization of real property. We suggest the subject to the agricultural society of this county, as a j)roper one for tlicur con- sideration, if they will encourage the planting of forest trees, and support it with their examples, it will have a good edeCt. The price of land will be undoubtedly increased, and the interests of agriculture advanced. There is one fact of which the society must be aware ; that in this country and the peninsula generally, it is the custom with farmers to sow or cultivate a much greater quantity of land than they can properly manage ; a coiisecjuence of which is that a great deal of good land is thrown away ; producing about one third or one fourth of what it would if properly manured and at- tended to. If, therefore, many of our farmers would limit their industry to the cultivation of one half or one third of their usual quantity of land, tbey would economize their labour greatly, cul- tivate their lands much better, produce a greater quantity of grain and grass, and the surplus would remain for the propagation of timber." — Delaware JFiitcfi man. 1.RT. t.] toUTriiE««H cot NT r. f^ unnually iimiu uiid iiioro prodiiclive. It would no ilonlit Imve rcHiiltod, IVoni (liu ^i-rat labour and i>\|H-nso ol' cloar- in(; land, lliul faruK^i'M \H)uld have (•oninuMiced l>^ making the iK'Mt use of Muiall enelosui'L's, it' a^riuultnio had hocn iin- diM'sluod scicntilicall^. That was not roimerl)r tin* < aH«? any where hi (he United StatcM, and now only in few places. Jt is pleasing; to see even the j;t'rni of a bedei- sy.steni. A^ri- eulture is iniprovin;; ; oureilizens be;;in to learn that their Melds inay be made nioi'u prolltable, and less expensive. Dutchess coun(y is about 15 miles lon^; north and soulh^ and twenty-Uvo miles in breadth cast and west, IVoni Con< nectieut line to the Hudson river. This county at present, ex- tends over an area of very nearly 800 square miles. Duteh- chs was formerly more extensive, (he townships south of (he Fishkill ntountains. I'hilipstown, Kent, Paterson, Southeast, and Carmel, were in the Legislative session of 181 '-2 erected Into a separate county, and named Putnam. By (he census of 1810, the entire county of Dutchess, possessed a popula- tion of 5l,WZt but of this amount the now county of Put- nam contained 8,i-82 persons ; leaving in Dulchess a nc(t amount of i.i,y30. Tiiis divided by 800, yields 53,0+ to the square mile, a very thin population ; yet the county is per- haps more than two tltirds cleared of wood ; and if so, al- lowing the population to be now (>0 to the square mile, would average more (ban seven acres of o|)en land to each individ- ual. I am well convinced this calculation is by no mer-nij overrated near the Hudson, or indeed in any part of the (bounty. The great distances between the houses, and the wide sweep of (he fields and meadows, give the country a lonely appearance. iiight miles above Fishkill, "Wappingcr's creek falls into the Hudson. 'i^'he latter is a much more considerable stream than the former, but are similar in tumbling over el- evated ledges of rock, previous to joining the Hudson "Where the road passes Wappingcr^s creek, some mills and ^ther machinery iiave been erected. The road crosses the '""vvf m MAPPINGEU'S CREEK. [r.ET. I. f 1 i. , 11. J! creek by a substanlial wooden bridge, over nearly (he mid- dle of the fall. The volume of water was considerable, even ^Iien i passed it, though a Ion,:; deartli had preceded my journey. The white surge dasliing itupetuously over the shelving roeks, and amongst the wliecls of the different wvi- ter works, produced a fine e^i^cU This place affords a pleas- ing variety on this road. Above "Wappinger's creek, the face of the country be- oomes more uniform, and the soil assumes a less rude aspect than bttween the creek and the now receding Highlands. Many points of rising ground, present very extensive and beautiful landscape views. The Highland, ShawanG;unk, and Catskill mountains, are alternately and often all visible from the same place. The Hudson can sometimes be seen glitter- ing low in the deep vale, through which it flows. Here in many places, appear vas once the course of the lake discharge ? By what process of nature did tlie Hudson scoop its present channel, so far beneath the bottom of this former inland sea, so far even beneath the level of the ocean, and thi:ough a continuous mass of rock ? If you can ans\ver this query, if you can explain this phenomenon, you will do me and the world a favor. I am unable to even conjecture the process of this mighty, this unequalled work. Poughkccpsic, the seat of justice for Dutchess county, stands upon the table land of the Hudson, sixteen miles from Fisiikill. 1 arrived here in the afternoon of the 25th Aug. and on the morning of the 26th« took an extensive ramble over its streets and environs. The town is in the form of a cross, the two principal streets crossing each other nearly at right angles. The houses are scattered, and the inter- vening spaces planted with trees. A road leads down a long, steep, and in many places very abrupt hill, from Poughkecp- sic to the landing, on the Hudson river. This circumstance subjects the inhabitants to great inconvenience. The oppo- site shore is broken, rocky, barren and desolate. The town contains at present about 2000 Inhabitants. The houses have a decent plainness in their exterior^ a character they have no doubt received from the moral taste of the inhabitants. I have visited few places, where a more mild, conciliating de- portment was observed to the stranger. Some manufactures are csiablished in Poughkeepsie ; the principal of which, is that of Messrs Booth's woollen cloth manufactory; Some very beautiful and very excellent cloth has been made at this establishment. It is now contending like all similar works in the United States, with high wages, enhanced price of raw material^ European competition, and long established public prejudice in favor of foreign produc- tions. Except the inconsistency of their opinions and conduct, nothing can be more idle, than the expressions you may now hear in every conversation in our country, upon domcstie sa POVt;ilIiGEi'SlG. [let* Xi I 1 ( y. ■ i manufatturcd floods of an^^ kind. ** Encourage the fi*aincrs " or our own products. 1 prcfcp (o see my neighbors dres- " sed in home umf theh" cus- >ther estab- on, exist on nd in Book- are offer- ^ious traces rioHs sects )f the most s upon the atises upon ' occurrcn- le limits of iman read- t events of dy few of it attention conflicting liET. I.] IIIII.VEUECK. 2S subject, they generally but superficially understand. Though it may bo. doubted whether the reading of history, tends to produce all the beneficial results, usually expected to flow from that species of literature ; yet it is in history alone, that the treasured experience of our race is recorded. It is true that lessons of experience, Avhen not taught by physi' cal sulTering, arc seldom very profoundly remembered, or correctly acted upon. It is also true, that though the im- pressions made upon our minds by (he virtue or crimes, the wisdom or fully of others, are slight and transient, in a ratio of distance from the scenes ol* our own personal cares ; yet salutary impressions are made, and liberal opinions contract- ed, fi'om reading the events of nations that exist no more, as well as from those wiiich concern the most remote people upon our planet. August 27th, I left Poughkeepsie early in the morning ,• a shower in the preceding ui^lit had given freshnrss to the air. Proceeding along the road towards hhinebeck, a found the country extremely pleasant. A turnpike road has been made from Poughkeepsie 11 miles ; the surface of the ground uneven rather than hilly. A few miles from Pough- keepsie the tabic land becomes more flat, and in some places so much so, as to resemble the bottom of a large river. Rhinebeck stands upon one of those elevated plains, is built in the Dutch taste ; all the houses have a comfortable, and a few an elegant exterior ; (hey are interspersed with orch- ards, meadows, grain fields and gardens. To me, nr object is more satisfactory than these scattered villages, where ev- ery species of cultivation seem blended. In large cities, the, great field and rich mead are banished, to make way for the various objects of luxury and commerce ; but in these rural villages, enough remains of rude nature to reeal the mind to the ages of primitive simplicity, whilst enough is created by art to gratify the wants of civilized man. In ascending towards the north from the Highlands, along the elevated plains of the Hudson, as the Fishkill mountaim* ^i tf: ■; U '■ '\ ^% KINGSTON. [(LET. 'r* are depressed by l-eccssion, those of Calskill rise from ap- prouch. Tlie latter chain presents a bold and imposing front from Rhinebcck. Rising in mnjosty their blue tups» and gradually sloping sides, are peculiarly pleasing to the eye, nhilst their pyriuiidal form cvinee a duration, commen- surate with time itself. The village of Rhinebcck stands near two miles from the margin of the Hudson, ^vith, as usu- al, a high rocky intervening bank. From Rhinebcck vil- lage the ground falls rapidly. AVhen the river is approach- ed, a wihl and picturesque landscape opens ; the \>'cst bank of the Hudson is rugged ami extremely broken ; the Cats- kiU>mountains rise upon tlie back ground, and terminate >vith their rounded cones the distant view. The road from Rhinebeck ferry, winds up tlie v/c^tern sleeps of the Hud- son, amid broken fragments of rock. The eminences are clothed with pine, cedar and oak ; evey object announces sterility. Nothing is seen, that can give the slightest anti- cipation of llie fertile and beautiful valley of Esopus, into which, a ride of three miles from the Hudson river carries the traveller. I do not remember to have ever enjoyed a more agreeable surprize, or to have seen a transition more rapid, than in passing from the sterile and shapeless summits of the Hud- son hills, to the fine and extended plain, upon which stands the roDiantic village of Esopus or Kingston. This little, but interesting town^ recals to mind some memorable events of the revolutionary war. Its inhabitants were amongst the first and most zealous opposers of British aggression, in the then colony of New-York, and of course mai'ked for ven- geauce by the officers of the crown, who commanded on the New- York station. In the summer of 1777, while Gen. Burgoyne was |)enetrating from the north towards Albany, a British squadron ascended the Hudson river from New- York, and landed a body of troops near the mouth of the M'allkill, who marched to, and burnt the defenceless village of Kingston. W ;c from ap- i1 imposing ' blue (ops, sing to the 1, commcii- teck stands itht as usu- lebcck \il- 3 approach- ; \>est bank 1 the Cats- ninatc "tvith road from f tlie llud- nences ar^i announces htest anti- sopus, into ver carries ! agreeable id, than in ' the Hud- lieh stands } little, but e events ol' nongst the ion, in the I lor ven- nanded on vhilc Gen. s Albany, I'om New- lith of the ess village Ut. i.j Kingston. si The inhabitants had but a few moments' iaformaliun of the apppof»eh of their eneniy, before their actual arrival. A tumultuous flight ensued, and before quitting (he view of their dwellings, the smolve of the lire that devoured them ascended to heaven. The consequence of (hid act of Mind rage, was Just what cdmmon sense would have expected ; a more inveterate opposition to tlib Brilish gcivcrnment. To feelings of revolutionary enthusiasm, was :iddc'• I.ET. I.] ci*rY or uuDsaiv. ^ Concealed by the peninsula, lielwcen llic Ituilson and Catskill creek, but a small part ol' (he toM n of Catskill can be seen from the river. As I desii'cd to see all (he to\vn» near the margin of the Hudson, I determined to return to Catskill, before ascending to the i.orth of the town of Hud- son. This latter village has a prosperous appearance ; its site h the most favorable to connect the adjacent country to the Mver^ of any town or the Hudson, between New- York and Troy. The situation of Hudson is pleasant, rising fii'st by a steep bank of 50 or 60 feet^ and (hence gradually front (he bank. That part of the town which appi-oaches the wa- ter, stands upon a peninsula projecting considerably into the river, and aflbrding a vet'y tine view both (o (he north and south, partiiculai^ly the former. On the opposite shore stands the village of Athens, in Greene county. The latter (own rises like Newburg, though less abrupt from the water edge; every house and the au)iia, and llie eonli^uous part of Mew- York. A iidge of land, rocky, prccijMtous, atid {generally very barren, follows both hanks of the Hudson river, occasionally interrupted. ]?ihiiul these ridges and parallel to (hem, lies two broken valleys of more or less widtli. All the towns upon this singular river, are placed upon the interruptions of these ridges. Hudson is a rt inarkablc cxujnple. 1 have already noticed the peninsula, which forms the port of Hud- son. This peninsula is bounded on the north by a bay, tcr- iilinated by clay blulfs, which are yielding to the action of the water ; and on the south extends another bay, which gradually shallows, and ends in a deep inorass. South of this swamp rises a very high hill, the nordi abutment of one of the ridges I have already noticed. Behind tlie town of Hudson, to Ihc eastward, the ground rises into considerable elevation, overlooking from its summit a vast expanse of country, includifig the tow us of Hudson and Athens ; the river for many miles ; its variegated shores, and perhaps the best prospect that exists of the Catskill mountuins. To point out the charming views included in this elegant pic-^ lure, would be to describe every hill, dale and slope witliii its limits. In every direction to which the eye can be turn- ed, a new and elegant landscape opens, and presents its beauties^ its character of distinctive attraction, and an out- line that renders it a little whole in itself. It may indeed be considered as peculiar fo the Hudson scenery, that almost all the variety that the face of the eartli can afford, is often condensed into a compass of very limited extent. Environed by cliffs, crowned with dwarf oak, pine and cedar, the traveller often finds a projecting bank, some- times rising bold, rude and rocky ; at others, swelling abov Ihji wave in rounded prominences. Upon such banks^ arc ./ ir'^' XET. I, 3 it leads lliu state. IVu 111 the north part York, 'rally very ceasioiiully thcni, lies I the to\vn» ierruptions le. I have rt of II ud^ a bay, ter- e aetioii ol" )5iy, wliieh South oC iient of one lie town of Misiderablo wpanse of hens ; (he id perhaps tains. To egant pic-' >pc M it hi I in be turn- resents its nd an out- 16 Hudson the eartli vy limited oak, pine nk, some- ing abo> anks, are^ LET. l.J NEIGfIliOniN& SCE77ERY. 2i (milt niiiny of the finest country seals in tha United States ; and if a vaiiej^ated country can give gralification to refined taste, there are few places on earth where summer can ho enjoyed with more delight. In passing the Hudson, it is in the highest d<'gi'ee pleasing, to view those ediliees amid so many natural contrasts. From the city of New-York this elegant variety greets the voyager, above the highlands it becomes more frequent and striking, and in no exient of tii() Hudson river, does its peculiar traits arrest attention with more force, than near the town of Hudson. The second day after my ai'rival in the neighborhood, I travci cd the road from Hudson to Coliimbiaville, near the mouth of Kinder- hook. The road follo>ys the dividing ridge between the eas- tern branch of Kinderhook creek and the Hudson river, and in many places, commands very extensive views of the sur- rounding country. At one glance is often seen the majestic Hudson, its evei* varied banks, the tleeting sail, apparently mingling with the farm houses, and above and beyond tiiis spft picture of peace- ful industry, rises the blue ridges of the distant mountains. Near the mouth of Kindt' rhook, commences a very striking change in the physiognomy of the banks of the Hudson ; the Iiills are less abrupt, and the bottoms are now more extensive than farther south. The soil presents no very striking dif- ference from that found in the interval between this place and the Highlands; but the general aspect of the country as- sumes a new character. Though still broken, the face of the country on both hanks, is more uniform than the surface of either Dutciiess, Orange, or Greene counties. Kmderhook Creek is formed from two branches, the Cla- verack, and the Kinderhook properly so called. I'ha for- mer rises in the township of Hillsdale in Columbia county, and running first east, gradua' j turns south and south-west, and approaching within three or four miles of that river, fin- ally assumes a northern course, forming in all its oourse, a Mini-cUipse of about thirty miies in length. Kinderhook D3 10 KINUEUIIOOK ORUKK. [LRT. I. LE' IH vises ill the (oi^Mihliip of Berlin, in Renssehier county, nnd pursuing a eoui'su suulli or suuth-ensl, in very nenrly an op« posile (liKClion, Joins (he Cluverack uhout one mile and a hair IVom the Hudson ; the united stream unites with that I'ivcr, after heing precipitated over considerahle ledges of transition slate. The curious strueture of this country ap- pears from the cireumstance, that the Jansens or Aucrauk creek* rising also in IJillsdale, winds round the Claveraek, at seven or eight miles distance from the latter stream. The courses of, indeed* nearly all the watercourses in this neigh- bourhood, have a correspondence, approaching the regulari- ty of ur> ; their positiun must have been determined hy some general cause, some operation of nature, common to a considerable extent of country. It preserves, however, so much of the general character of ihe Hudson banks, as tu present a more broken surface near, than at a di/itance from llini river. Where the road from Hudson to Albany crossc^s Kfnder- liook crerk, a tine wooden bridge was erected a few years past. AVithin a few paces below the bridge, on the .louth side of the creek, the Messrs. Jenkins' of Hudson, have a fme merchant mill, and directly opposite the mill» stands a large cotton factory. During the last war a little villagoi rose around this factory, inhabited by weavers, spinners and oth^ er vvorkme... It is now languishing like other similar es- tablishments« and from like causes. 'I'he ereek rolls over different ledges of rock, under and above the bridge, which produces the fall of water necessary to propel the machinery below. The tide flows up to the mill and factory. The adjacent country is hilly, particular- ly south of the creek. The works lie so low that the trav- eller is within a few paces hefoi'e he can perceive their posit lion ; and when viewing them from the south bank, cannot but be pleased with the rnral features of the place. From the eminence above the mill, can be seen the fine farm an^ iicat of Mr. Robert Livingston^ upon the point of lanci he« 1>V« opi peu tlii [let. I. u»(y, and v\y an op- mile and a \ ml\i llial ledges ot* juntry ap- r Aaei'am vcraek, at am. The his neigh- ) regulari- mineU hy union to a iwever, so iks^ as to. ance i'roin s Kinder- few years ;iouth side ave a line ds a large lagv^ rose and oth- iniilar es- under and necessary up to the articular- the trav- heir posi^ :> cannot . From farm am) land be* LET. i.j COLUMDIiVlLLK. »i i>vccn the mouth of Kitidcrhook creek and Hudson river, the opposite siiores rising gently from the water, and re tiring far into the distant landscape, in the township of Co.vuckie. Turning the view a little more to the soutli, rises the highest peaks of Catskill 'uounlains, in the township of AVindham, The south side of the little bay, made hy Kinderhook ereek, is steep and in many places precipitous, elodied with timber and underwood, its scenery is romantic and solitaKry; I had the good fortune to be kindly and hospitably treai<>d, by Mr. Marks Barker and his family, who reside near tliis seductive spot. In company with those innocent and friendly people, and the sweet companion of my life and of this Journey, I traversed those wilds. AVithin a few paces of the cultivated farm, or ** busy mill," wc might have imagined ourselves transported to the abodes of primeval silence ; wc could have conceived ourselves earried back to the primi- tive ages, when cultivation had neither disfigured or adorn- ed the face of the earth. Many of the dells, darK and deep, overshadowed with oaks, pine, ccdur and maple, SL>enied to have never before been visited by human beings ; the turn of a step dispelled this illusion, by disclosing the gay aspect of the garden, orchard, field and meadow. 1 had before ranged over many of the most uncultivated and unvisiled parts of this continent. I had often seen the rapid change, from the savage waste to the highly decorated abode of civ- ilized man, but I do not remember to have been, ever be- fore, so strongly impressed with the contrast. The scenes were before me in all their majesty. The whole contour, shading, and parts of one of the most fmely blended pictures in nature, was open to view. It was a day I can only forget when I cease to exist. It was enjoyed amid objects that now retain in my mind all their force of recollected interest. And it is a spot that the traveller may again, and again re- visit, and never cease to admire. August SOth, with great reluctance I left Columbiaville ; iho name given to the little vstablishment on Kinderhook, «!» CATHKILt. [j.ET. I. and rcdirnod (hi'ougli Hiidson and A (lions, to CntHkill. liike ColuiiibiavilUs Catskill Hiands upon llie \n\y or iiiuiidi of a hii'i^a I'lTck, surrounded, ovi'rhliudoucd i>,td almost eon- i'calrd I)}' hills. '^I'lie lallrr (own is upparenilj^ llourisltinf; ^nd foniniei'cial, lia>ing a rich and well euUivaled eounlry ^lon;; Catskill, to support its prosperity*. ]t was >Yith pain I '\yas obli;;ed« IVoiii tlu' nature oi' my private coneerns, to forego the pleasure oC vi^iling the vicinity of Catskill town. From the alpine nature ol* part of this ref^ion, from tliQ heaut.v and variety of aspect it ]iresented to my eye, when seen from the Uudson hills, and Irom all the descriptions of its features, that i have seen, 1 am confident! lost much, in iiot being able to range over its plains and moimtains. Thero is nodoiil", but that this is one of the ^lost interesting tiacts in the United States, and perhaps the one where the; strongest contracts can be found in the siiortest space. All the variety of soil, and formation from primitive granite to the most recent lUluvion, can be examined here in less thai^ one day. A good statiiitieal and geological description of Grcrna county, would present many of the noblest features of the United States to view. The mouth of Catskill creek lies level witli the Atlantic tides, and (he most elevated of the Catsbergs in AVindham, rises to about 3500 feet. Between these extremes, how immense the variety of vegetable pro- duction ; perhaps the mineral kingdom would not be less, productive, if as accessible to humun research. In (his rrgion, (he traveller now iinds some scenes of sub> linte interest. " The t'ound-top, is found to be elevated *' .3(>i>5 feet above the level of the river; the high-peak, 4< o'tbT. These summits are in Windhum, Greene county, ** about 20 miles we^st of Hudson, and in full view from that « city, A turnpike road which crosses this range of moun-r «!< tains, near these summits, winds up until it reaches (h^ " astonishing altitude of 22.7 i fvvt ; and from lliis spot th^. .^ m [let. I. CntHkill. or luuulh must eun- loiirisliing d I'ounlry ilh pain I ii'(M*ns, to kill lo>vii. from IliQ cje, when I'iptions of t nuK'h) in IS. Tlici'C r.lercsiing ivhere (he, »ace. All granite ta \ less thai^ of Grcrna I'cs of the ercek lies ted of the Between table pro- ot be less ncs of siib- B clevateil iigh-peaky nc county, I'rom that ; of niouHr aches th^ is spot th^. LET. I.] KlTKRSKlliL; l» ** view in incxprcsHibly grand/'^ Tiiiii is the higiient road in the United States, exceeding by far in tlovation any of the passes of the Allegany chain, south of this place. In this alpine region, exists also, one of the most intercbt- ing cataracts in North America ; not from the mass of wa- ter, but from the perpendicular descent of the stream, and peculiar structure of the adjacent country. It is a curiosi- ty but little known beyond the neighborhood where it exists« though within a very short distance of the mountain road I have already noticed, ** The high fall of the Katerskill is ** about half a milo from this road, near the Bummit of the « mountain ^nd twelve niiles from Catskill. The stream ** arises from two small ponds, one quarter of a mile 4tpart> " and runs gently two miles, where it breaks over a rocky « precipice of .'MO feet, pcrpendiuular height."! The mountains arc inhabited to their summits, enabling travel- lers who visit thcuij tp find accoiniuodsition in t'">ir most ele- vated valleys. My time spent in the vicinity of C'atskill, was too short to gratify my own curiosity, or to collect extensive informa- tion on local subjects. The general outline was all I could cxaminef and even that iniperfeetiy. I saw enough to ex- cite a regret, I can only eradicate by returning under cir- pumstanccs, which will enable me to recnain long enough tu ascend the highest mountain, and range the lowest valley ii^ jlhis diversified tract. September 4th, I set out from Hudson for Albany. A- bove the village of Columbiaville, the road follows the val- ley of the Kinderhook creek. The country in many places level ; so much so, as to remind me often of cvi-n Ivith pine timber. This tract affords a very remarkable instance of the revolutions, to which the price of landed property is subject. I was informed on the spot, that about thirty years a^, this pine land was considered of so little vaioe, as to render its possession onerous to the proprietor. Now, some of the roost valuable farms in the two counties of Columbia and Rensselaer, arc formed upon its surface. To my eye, who had travelled over so many millions of acres of pine land, in the states of Louisiana, Mississippi, and tho Alabama territory, tho very existence of pine timber in any great bo- dies, produced ideas of sterility. Jt is to gypsum that the region 1 am now t^peakiog of, owes most of its reputation as productive soil. Improved modes of agriculture, and the use of manure, h^ve their share very extensively in pro- ducing so beneficial a change. It delighted me the more, to see flourishing farms amid forests of pine, as it convin- ced my mind, that the pine regions I once considered con- demned to irremediable barrenness, may be made highly fruitful. If this conclusion : render its onie of the »lutnbia andl ly eye> who f pine lantif Alabama ly great bo- urn (hat the } reputation uhurc, and vely in pro- the more, s it convin- idered con- ade highly l»ow see its many mil- never exist more than •uth of lat. mth by the pine. All IBT. I.] ALBANY. »» 'ft ■.X gave to the vicinity uf Albany an air of barrenness I have since been convinced it does not deseryc. The approach to Albany upon this road, affords one of the finest landscapes on the Hudson. About one and a half miles from the city, the valley of the Hudson opens, present- ing Albany, Greenbush, the wide s>Yceping bottoms of the river, and the adjacent farms ; though thirty miles distant the peaks of Windham, and up the Hudson, the elevated country beyond Troy and Lansingburgh. The view of Al- bany itself, is from this hUl extremely advantangeous ; from the rapid acclivity upon which that city is built, scarce a Louse is unseen. There is no point in the respective vicini- ty of either ^^Uimorc, Philadelphia, Ncw-Tork, or Boston^ where those cities can be so completely engrasped at one glance pf the eyp j the view of Pittsburg from the Mononga- )iela coal hill, is the only position that I have seen, whieU equals that near Albany. The latter is, however, superjov ^ commanding a much wider field of vision. Yo^^sJ^ )asses over e with the tv presents the prac- which this 'ct so con- t^ that it ;^6 T«OY. [let. II, LETTER 11. h / Troy, May 5th, 181&. Beau Sir, The weather lias been uniformly and excessively in* element since my departure from New-Yor|i, and in a par- ticular manner since my arrival in Albany. The roads in this neighborhqqd are scareely passable. "*/Vith some dan- ger and dilRcuhy I yesterday came to this town, "We have tliis morning an interval of clear sun-shine, which J9 cheer- ful, and has exposed from the front street the snow capped summits of the Catsbcrgs. The absence indeed of ice and snow, is the only circumstance that even here marked the approach of spring ; every object has otherwise, the cold and solitary aspect of winter. The Hudson is excessively swelled by the recent rains, and by the melting ice and snow towards its source. The banks near this tow n, at Albany, and for a few miles below that city, indicate the diminished influence of the tide, and the cflTeets produced by mountain streams, fixtcn- dcd alluvial bottoms, and ^ continued current to (he south- ward, though still checked by the swell below, are changes that obtrude themselves to the immediate notice «f th^ traveller. Tills town is the first upon the Hudson, th^t can l)e con- sidered as built upon the bottoms of (hat river, liie site is not elevated more than eigiit or ten fcot above the level of high water mark on the river bank, sloping gradually to the water edge. Some of the lower par(s are now inunda- ted. The base of the bottom on which the town is placed* is rolled pebble with an alluvial covering ; it is about 800 yards wide, from the foot of the hill to the river bank. The hills rise with a very steep acclivity, but without preci- pices. [let. II. lET. II.] IROY. 37 hf 1818. ssively iiir I in a par- le roads in sonic dan- We have li 19 cheer- ow capped of ice and narked Ihc ?, the coUl excessively ng U'C and I few miles ncc of the Exten- (he soulh- re changes ce i)X th(> an 1)6 con- 1 he site e the level aduully to inunda- is phieed* about 800 ver baiik. out preci- vv I nicasui»cd a base 235 feet, in Col. Albert Pawlin's gar- den, upon a very level plain from the extremity of which I took angles of elevation, to standing objects upon the hill in the rear of the city ; the calculations founded upon the base and angles gave 251 feet as the height of the hill, at the distance of 3951 feet from the south extremity of the base. The garden, in which this operation was performed, is situated at the lower end of the city, about 100 feet from the margin dell, and not more than two feet above the level of the Hudson river^ at the time the admeas- urement was made. Troy is formed by one main street inclining with the in- flections of the river, and crossed by others running from the river, to the base of the adjacent hills. Standing at or near the head of tide water, lying so nearly level with the Hudson, arid having a well cultivated country above and in its rear, Troy is well situated foi* a commercial town. In point of wealth, business, population and extent, it is the third town in the state of New-York. Most of the buildings are of brick, and have an elegant and spacious appearance ) the inhabitants cannot fall short of seven thousand. We have often, in conversation, spoke of the Hudson as a long narrow bay, rather than a river. This body of water has indeed but one characteristic, that could ever give it th6 appellation of a river ^ that is its great length, when com- pared with its ordinary width. In every other respect, it exhibits the common features of a hay. I do not remember to have ever read in any author, an attempt to define th6 real diflerence between a river and a bay ; you will recol- lect that in out* little hydrographical definitions, we consid- ered that body of water a river, whose opposing banks, did actually or very nearly form corresponding curves ; and wc" viewed that body of water a bay, into which, if connected with a sea having tides, those tides flowed, and whose oppo- site banks did not obey opposing inflections. If these prin- ciples of analysis arc correct, the Hudson is a bay to tire li I ^H TROY. [let. If. junction of Us north branch with the Mohawk. It is to he regretted^ that the continuity ol' the Hudson above Water- fordf had not received a distinctive name from the bay or river below. In reality the Mohawk and the upper Hudson* after rolling over considerable falls, both enter the head of a bay. The features of those two latter rivers^ except in magnitude, differ but little from the other streams, which have their sources in the higher extremities of the Hudson Talley, and wiiich flowing over a comparative table land, approach near, and are then precipitated over elevated ledg- es of rock, before finding the level of the recumbent bay. Examining the environs of Troy, Lansingburg> and Wa- tcrford, I found Pccsten's-Kill, which enters the Hudson at the lower extremity of the former town, rolling over reite- rated cataracts, similar to all the streams I had seen front the Highlands upwards. The Mohawk dashing over the Cahoos fulls, and the Hudson over its numerous rapids, all seem influenced in their motion by one common cause. The view from the hills near Troy is extensive, but the quantity of pine and cedar, give here, as near Albany, a stei'ile aspect to the neighboring country. I have before ob'- served, that associating ideas of sterility with these ever- greens, is in part a mistaken application of data, taken front a distant and in many respects a very diflerent country. Well informed men have observed to me, when speaking of those lands that appeared so barren, that, good husbandry never failed to render them very productive. Your mtelli- gent friend B*=****l, of Albany, who has made the experi- ment upon part of the worst of those lands, conflrms in strong language their liability to amelioration. I am fond of dwelling upon, and often recurring to such subjects. It is pleasing to be convinced that a dense and happy popula- tion, may be subsisted upon places where once incurable sterility seemed to reign. Adieu. LET. m.] SCHENECTADY. 39 LETTER lit. Schenectady J J\Ititj Sth, 181^> Dear SfR> I WOULD have been pleased to have exlendod my ram- bles more into the adjacent country, near Albany an4 Tpoy» but the incessant rain prevented any comforlable or benefi- cial excursion. The 6th of May the rain fell in torrents, in the midst of which I returned from Troy to Albany, where I remained until the morning of the 8th j when I set out in the stage for the westward. The rain had ceP'^cd in the night, but the roads for about two miles from the city« Were so intolerable as to oblige (he passengers to leave the stage, in order to enable the horses to drag the vehicle through the deep mud. After attaining the summit level at the western part of Albany, tLe country is level, the surface a clay mixed with sand ; and whether the wretched roud that exists there, is the necessary consequence of the nature of the surface or soil, or the efft'ct of a defective po- lice, those most concerned ought to explain. As it was, t was glad to arrive safe over this marsh, and attain the sandy plains farther to the westward. The distance from Albany to Sehencitady is sixteen com- puted miles; the intermediate country is broken, rolling sandy, and in its natural state extremely barren. The prin* cipal timber white pine and red cedar, admixed near the streams with some white oak« black oak, and white birch, witli a few stems of red flowering maple. The water courses which cross the road flow north-east towards thf* Mohawk, and have some fine extensive farms upon their alluvial bot* toms. Before reaching Schenectady a high hill gives the traveller a full view of the adjacent country. At the time of the year in which I travelled a few blossoms upon the maples and birch ti'ces, were the only harbingers of ap- 4,0 SCtiENECTADT. [let. III. ;4 proaciliiug spring. Tlic slopes of tlie MohaSvk were clothed w'liU pine and cedar ; the leafless branches of the other trees were hid amid the deep green boughs of those hardy son ._' tlie forest. Descending into the vale in wliich stands the comparatively iincient village of Schenectady, another and more pleasing scene opens. The Very flourisiiing village standing upon the fertile alluvial flats of the Moha^vk pre- sents a rich picture of cultivation, contrasting strongly with (he sandy hills towards Albany, or the equally arid eminen- ces beyond the 3f ohawk to the north of Schenectady. This town, or city, is situated upon the flats at the bottom of the hills, on the south or right side of the Mdhawk river ; it is more regularly laid out thart most of the ancient towrid cstabliSihed by the early settlers of New- York, now contains more than 500 houses, and perhaps 3000 inhabitants. Many of the buildings are larger exjicnsive and elegant. This town is well placed to receive the benefits of an extensive com- merce with the i'ich and prosperous settlement!^ which bor- der the Mohawk to its source. The inhabitants seem to have availed themselves of their advantages, the trade of the [dace appears productive. Schenectady recals many facts of historical interest. li formed for a long period of tints, the frontier (own towards the Indian country. In February, 1690, a marauding party of French and Indians surprised the inhabitants before day light in the mor ing. Aroused from their peaceful beds by the explosion of the fire arms, and the piercing yells df (heir savage enemies, an indiscriminate slaughter ensued. The mother and the babe, the husband and wife, the brother and sister shared the same fate. A few escaped, who almost naked, through frost and snow carried the distressful tidings to Albany. This was one of the many, and one of the most tragical scenes of savage border warfare, that has occurred with son»e intervals, around our settlements for upwards of two centuries, and which is fiir from having terminated. The massacre at Fort Minis, ami many others within five LET. III.] SCHENECTADY. 41 years past* arc only recent instances of the cnntinuntion of this most drcadi'ui ot* all species o[' war. The circle is wideningy the very nation hasecasid to exist, wliich reduced Schenectady to ashes and buried in its ru.. i the remains of its murdered citizens, but other liordcs of savages have con- tinually presented their ferocious front, and our frontiers have ever been stained with the blood of helpless innocence. Those tribes have apparently receded, but in fact they have been rather extinguished. . The Mohawks,^ who once gave law to an immense extent, vi(li savafj^es ; and the common mode of expression would {suppose, IliiU, all men ought to remain sava^^e, or attain the empyrean Iieijj^hls of liJerary excellence. Some light head- ed dunces have heeome pedants hy obtaining a few words in the learned languaj^es ; as our friend A***s, who spouts languages living and 'lead, without more utility than a par- rot would gain by using the same sounds. It cannot now, however, be doubted, but that the human character is enno- bled, the human heart softened, and public morals purified, by general instruction. Tho;igh slight abuses may arise in some instances from tlic weakness or depravity of individuals, those abuses deteriorate no more from the value of educa- tion, than the ordinary defects of all human institutions do, from any amelioration whatever in the condition of our spe- cies. For my own part, I viewed the buildings composing the three cullegrs which bear the name of Union in Schenectady, with a similar reverence, with which I had formerly felt when passing Cambridge, Yale, Columbia, Princeton, and Dickinson. Those, and other such edifices, are the true temples of reason. In the vale of the Mohawk, I considered myself as in a new region. I had now passed the utmost limit of the At- lantic tides. Clinton's Inaugural Discourse, and Dr. Mitch- ill's notes to Kirk and Mercein's edition of Cuvier's Theory of the Earth, had cnilamed my desire to visit the interior of this continent. I also wished to contrast with each other, tlie two extremities of the United States. My progress from the city of New-Yoik to Albany, and even to Schenectady, as merely introducto^ to my real tour. Hitherto I had travelled over a region remarkable in itself, but with features of considerable resemblance to the scenes to which you arc most familiar, but from hence objects are new. and of a nature very dissimilar to those over which we have been in llie habit of rambling. You will hour of me again from T.ticn. Adieu. XET, IV.] SCIIRNECTADr. M LETTER IV. IJtictti »J\laii iUh, 1318. Deiu Sir, Br an nnoxpocted goad forfiinc (lie weather continiird without rain during my journey from Si'liencctady to thiii town. Tlio roads were in many plaecs extremely ha*), whieli eircumstanpc liad one good effect, it enahU'd me to keep in advance of the stage, and hy travelling on foot, and in sumo measure at my leisure, procured me a much bet view of the country than I could have gained by continuing in the vehicle. 1 kept my pocket Ixiok and pencil in niy hand, and made my notes as the o!)jects presented themselves. Kough as these notes are, I have sent yoq a «opy, lean athl nothing material by putting them in any other form. You expresseii a kiad desire to licar from me, ^nd to Jiave as near as pos- sible a picture of my route, and a description of the incidents of my tour, as these incidents transpired. The distances are givcii from Albany, as it was on leaving that city, that I eommenced to note regularly the stages and diversities of the country. MIl.ES. 46 From Jllhawj to Schenectady. As soon as I had finished breakfast ia the latter "»i' granite, interpersed >vith limestone. In various places you observe profound exca- vations in the rocl.s made by ilie fij^i'.ation of pebbles in the lissures, and in soaie places the river is not more than twenty yards wide. As you upproach the western exiremity of the lills, vou find them about hall" a mile distant from summit to supunit, X.ET. lY. LITTLE fails: 49 MILES. —81 The scenery near the Little Falls, is wild and strikiiij^ As you approach this place, the Talley ot'tiic river seems to close, the road approaches the pass obliquely, winding along the foot of hills and at least three hundred feet high. The rocks are composed of j^ranite, and many of them are thirty or forty feet thick, and the whole mountain extends at least, half a mile from east to west- Yon see them piled on each other, like Ossa on Pelion, and in other places, hui^e fragments scattered about, indicating a violent rupture of the waters through this place, as if they had been for- me riy dam»ncU up and had formed a passage, and in all tlireclions you behold great rocks exhibiting rotundities, points and cavi- ties, as if worn by the violence of the waves, or hurled from their ancient positions. " The general appearance of the Little Falls indicates the for- mer existence of a great lake above, connected with the Oneida lake ; and as the waters forced a passage here and receded, the flats above were formed and composed several thousand acres of the richest land. Rome being the highest point on the lake, the passage of the waters on the east side left ii bare; the Oneida lake gradually receded on the west side, and formed the great marsh or swamp, now surrounding the waters on Wood creek. The physiognomy of the country from the commencement of Wood creek to its termination in tlie Oneida lake, ccnf'i ms this hy- pothesis. The westerly and northwesterly winds continually drive the sand of the lake towards the creek, and you can distinctly perceive the alluvion increasing eastward by the accumulation of sand, and the formation of new ground. Near the lake, you ob- serve sand without trees, then to the east a few scattering trees ; and as you proceed in that direction, the woods thicken. The whole country from the commencement to the termination of Wood creek, looks like made ground. In digging the cai'al in Wood creek, pine trees have been found twelve feet deep. An old boatman several years ago, said that he had been fifty years in that employ, and that the Oneida lake had receded half a mile >vithin his menu>ry. William Colbreath, one of the fust settlers at Rome, in digging a well, found a large tree at the depth of twelve feet. This great lake, breaking down in the first place, the barriers which opposed the progress of its waters to the east, and then gradually receding to the west, is a subject well deserv- ing of minute investigation." — Clinton's Introductory Discourse^ Since my return to the city of New- York, I had the pleasure of meeting there, with Mr. Isaac Briggs,who is mentioijcd intiiis 60 LITTLE FALLS. [let IVr |( ' MI£S. —81 covered >viili enormous sugar maples \> hose rough boughs hang over the head of the passenger. An elegant wliUc tavern house stands near tlse en- trance into tlie narrow glen below the cataract. After passing tf»c house a few yards, the road turns suddenly to the j'iglit, and scenes of grandeur suc- ceed each other in rapid review. The huge un- bhapen fragments of granite and o(ber rocks, lie disrupted n an infinity of positions, interspersed and overgrown with sugar maple, elm, hemlock, oak, pine, and other trees. Toiling about half a 11 corrrespondence as one of tlie gentlemen employed under the authority of the state of New- York, as an engineer on the grand canal. IMr. Briggs in the execution of Iiis official duty, has mea- sured and levelled the Mohawk river and its banks from Rome to the Little Falls, and who li?irt the goodness to give nie the follow- ing measurements of ilio iiills adjacent to the Little Falls. Falls-hill, where the road (on the south side of the Mohawk,) passes" it, is 518 feet l.igher than our level above the falls; 67i feet higher than our level two miles below the fulls ; 473 feet higher than Rome level ; and 323 feet higher than the surface of lake Erie. This admeasurement shews, that the present level above the Falls is only forty-five feet different from the level of Rome. Of course, if the tinie ever existed when the water at the Falls was more than forty-five feet above its present level, then did a lake ex- lend to the present Oneida, making the whole one sheet of water. The most »:icoiitcstible proofs remain upon the rocks, in and near the present fall, that the water once (lowed more than fifty feet higher than it docs now. What revolutions ! what sudden and gradu.il changes have wrought their effects upon the crust of our planet .' w hat we now see oi' the surface of our globe is almo.s,t composed of water, or of broken fragments torn by violence from their pristine position, at times beyond our records, and in many instances, by means that elude our research. To pursue t!ie investigation (;f these changes, is not always an idle application, as in the instance before us, where the examina- tion of VEST CANADA CREEK. 5B MILES. —81 r— 86 of the sun. A review of the present must be de- Jightful to every generous and feeling heart. It is a picture on whieli is traced, the most interesting revolution in the moral and physical condition of human nature. There is seen the region, where a few years past, roamed the blood stained savage, and where now dwells in peace and plenty the civilized man. Where in times remote, stood an expansive lake, and where now bloom the most lux- uriant harvests. Spring had made but little ad- vance, at the time I passed this remarkable place ; I amused my fancy in contemplating what it would exhibit when decked in all the gaiety of the vernal season, oi> when the fields and meadows were clothed in me rich garb of summer. Lost in this pleasing reverie, time past unheaded until my re- collection was aroused by linding myself at the mouth of West Canada creek. From the projecting bill below this creek, a very comprehensive view is afforded of both the German and Herkimer flats. These expansive bottoms are in fact, the same body of soil, being only divided by the Mohawk river, winding from the hills on its south, to those on its north side. West Canada ' creek is a stream of considerable magnitude, rising in a very hilly or rather mountainous country which forms the south-west angle of Hamilton county. This elevated tract is the coiUinuation of the same ridge that crosses the Mohawk at, and forms the Little Falls, and which gives rise in the same neighborhood to the two Canadas, and to the Sacondago branch of the Hudson. West Canada, like its namesake, falls impetuously in almost all its course. Its higher branches How westwardly 54 yiLIiAOB or IIERHIMRB. LET. IV.] itiliiiif ■ M MILB8. — 8G ubout twenty mileS) unite and enter Herkimer^ ami handing abruptly south* wind through (he latter county twenty more miles, and is then lost in the Mo- hawk. The spring floods of those short mountain streams, are terrible. A fine wooden brlJge for- merly crossed West Canada near its mouth, but the freshet of last winter carried it away ; the inhabi- tants are now erecting another, which will be, no doubt, completed in the course of the ensuing sum- mer. I passed the creek in a sktlf, and soon found myself in 1—87 The village of Herkimer, This villfigc stands upon an e1<>vated but alluvial plain, composed of rounded pebbles, sand and clay. It occupies the central part of the flats of the same name. The neighboring coimtry is well cultivated, the soil exuberantly fertile, and the improvements exhibit an air of wealth and industry. The Ilerki* mer flats do not appear to be so tamely level as those on the opposite side of the Mohawk. In point of timber, they present one general character ; sugar tree, elm, white walnut or butternut, prevails upon the bottoms near the streams ; on the hills or ele- vated slopes are found oak, hemlock, linden, (bass- wood) sugar maple, elm, ash, and hickory. Of oak, ash, and hickory, several species of each oo- I remained bnt a short time in the village of Herkimer, set out, and after passing the small and Ci — 93 unimportant village of iSc/tiii/Ze?*, found myself about four in the afternoon in S—lOl Utica. The plain of the Herkimer flats continues from that vil- lage to Schuyler, where the roau rises upon higher but still level land. The slope is here on the north side. Some part IBT. IV.] UTICA. 5i of ihe country is not very well improved. More wood land remains here than I had seen any where else since leaving Schenectady. Tiiis character however changes in approach- ing the city of Utica, whose vicinity exhibits a well cultivat- ed and wealthy neighborhood. The whole country presents marks of not very ancient submersion. The super-stratum IS every where sand, loam and rounded pebbles ; the materi- als in various deg**ees of respective prevalence and commix- ture ; the whole aflTording in many places a soil of extraor- dinary fertility. Utica is approached from the north, in part by a very bad road, and in part by a very good causeway. The latter is about a mile in length, but does not cross the level alluvial flats of the Mohawk. The residue of the road, was, when I passed it, in a wretched condition. Utiea occupier, the site of old fort Schuyler, and stands upon the right or south bank of the Mohawk river, in Oneida county, and in north latitude 43° 06. The site of this town is a gentle ascent, net exceeding two degrees, if so much. The opposite bank of the Mohawk is for about a mile and a half a perfect unbroken plain. The town stands at the low- est depression of the ancient basin. The adjacent country rises so imperceptibly that no elevation of consequence is perceivable from the streets. Few trees are visible except Ucmlock and sugar maple. This town has two banks, one a branch of that of Manhattan, in the city of New-York, the other formed by tlie citizens, and incorporated since 1812. Some very productive manufactories exist in this neighbor- hood. The commerce of the place appears -flourishing ; a matter of course, as Utica is a kind of thoroughfare between Albany and the central and western parts of the state of New-York. The grand canal will pass tiirough this town, and add much to its importance as a place of business. * The latitude I obtained in Utica from that accurate mathe- matician Isaac B:iiggs, who also gave mc the variation of the jnagnelic needle there, 4* 1 9 ' W. 56 UTICA. [let. V. Utica contains at this time near 5000 inhabitants, between % anil 500 houses, with stores, taverns, book stores, and other appendages of a Jlourishiug country town. Here roads diverge in all direetions ; down the valley of the Mohawk to Schenectady ; westward to Auburn, Geneva, Canandai- gua, Batavia, and Buffalo ; southward towards tlio valleys of the Delai/are and Susquchannah rivers ; and northward to Sacket's Harbor. The day I write is heavy and threatens rain. The stage does not leave this town until to-morrow i I shall however trust the weather and my feet, and set out as usual, with my cane in one hand and uiy tablets in the other. You will not again hear from me before 1 reach Sacket's Harbor ; in the mean time, though I am daily advancing farther from home, I am not. the less sincerely. Dear Sir, Your devoted friends ■^■i.^N.tyM. — ^ LETTER V, Sacked s Harbor, May ±2lh, 1818, Dear Sir, Drenched to the skin, I arrived here yesterday even^ ing, at 10 P. M. Enclosed you have a transcript of my jour* nal from Utica to this town. I was fortunately favored with good weather the greatest part of the way, and only had a heavy rain to close my journey hither. MILES. 1 From Utica to cross-roads. 1— -2 Road to Romct liCaves that which leads towards Sackct's Har- bor ; the latter now assumes its north-west course. liET. V.J no AD FROM rncA. S7 h between MILES tores, and t— 3 lere roads 1 Mohawk Canaiidai- ho Yalle^'s ' lorlhward riie stage 1 liowcver * with my u will not ir ; in the oin home, JS'*orthrop*s. After Icjiviiig Ullca and proeecding ns lar as (he cross roads, I hud the ibrUine bv cart'lcssness or some other cause to take a wroii^ road, and wan- dered to the northward about two miles, but fiiul- ing my error 1 wUh some (rouble regained iii^' in- tended roatl. I found the country ritiinj; more ra- pidly than I aniicipatid. A small creek which rises in the Itigh ground north of Ltiea* and wi;ich enters the Mohawk liver nearly opposi(e that town, has cut so deep a ravine in tlie yielding ma- terials (lirough wliich it flows, as to he passed wi(h diflicully. I strayed to llie east of this creek, and was forced to rc(urn to the cfoss roads to regain iny way. Above Northrop's the road ascends in some pla- ces genlly and others abrupJly, along the aeciivity «f the hills. I frequendy turned to enjoy (lio prospect behind me, which though interrupted by the woods, was exposed at intervals by the farnjs. which have been cleared near tlie road. As I ap- proached (he summit I found (lie ascent more rapid, and the adjacent land n»ore free from timber, con- sequently (he prospect expanded at every step ; and «n the ex(reme brow a. large farm exposed to full view (he ciiv (ban (l»ir(y miles «ast, south and southwest, Utica, thou;';h five miles distant, seemed to lie at my feet. As I stood and gazed upon (his no!)Ie pros])ec(, I could not avoid exclaiming men(ally " (hat I had seen many ** more sublime views, many more grand, but not *' one had ever before met n»y eye, that so cons- '* plctely answered to my conceplions. of (he fiuk F Ijfi'W B$ TtUVI) VnoM LTICA. [let. v. MiLi:s, I— r, V— -13 1 ' .(, ♦' son sjtmI hraiidri:! in Janjlscapc." CeHuinly I Imk) nioir (liun a ihuiisaiid {'..nns spirad belore ine, Jiian.v iMiiulirds could he seiTi a( ui': ;:!ancc. Those Ticju" wvvc s(M«n nios! distiriclly, wh'dst ilhosc more irmole j^rsidiiallv diininisiu'd in »'iM\ and hpcaine, from iiicifjisid distance, less dislinci, until, like llie vast iiu lined [)!ane upon \>hich tlie;^' stood, they were finally lost upon the verj^c of the distant sky- That mind must be void of the least sympathies of human nature, »lio could hehold this line pros- ])ecf, uidiOiit feelinj; a strong sensation of pleas- uie, GriUil'jiir.'j^ indeed must he the reflection upon the sum of domestic peace, plenty, aflection, ntid eomlbrt, enjoved within its limits. TitTcni upon the Itihle land of the hill. (In. upon (he lollom iiorthivard of the hill. Cdyirrsluvcrn upon nine mile rullf Jloxving soulh- n-rs! inlo Uic Jlnhinvk. Village of Trcnlon. Tlius far I proceedeci the same evening I left Utica, and round mysell'very well disposed to rest, after a walk of seventeen miles, including the di- rect distance, my error and its remedy, in my out- set from Utica. J5rtween Utica and Trenton I found four varie- ties of soil and timber. Upon the MohaMk flats exist a deep black alluvial loam, with a slight in- termixture of pelihlc. As the difiTerent banks rise, pebble becomes more plentiful and decumbent, in relation to tbe other materials of the soil. The timber irpon the alluvial, as also upon the contigu- ous Imnks, is composed of hemlock, beech, sugar, map'e aud eJu), \\U\\ rare examples of other trees. 'I'he productive quality of tbe alluvial yoil is very strong, that of the contiguous slopes but little in- LET. V.j FACE OF TIIR COUN TUT. 39 MlLliS. — IJ fcriop. Tlic laUt»p s;)ci!Jps of \a:m\ more «pnn;*y , anil Wi'l (liiin (li«' ('»h*jjhm% llioiitrii llni o():i(i-ai v "Woulii iippcar IVoiii rcliUivc p(isiJi«»ii. Tin* c;vni*rjil crop ill lliis section ol* (he slate of Nc\v-V(H'k, ap- jK-ars to he innizo, wlieat, r.vo, oats, and meadow jaji'ass. Fruit trees HMituiile (o tlie climate, siieli as iijiples, pears, plumbs and clieri-ies, appear p!«nli- I'ul. Peaeh trees cannot here endure tlie sevcnt;^' «r u inter fold. Rising ahove the alluvion and eonti;j;ima.s hanks, tippears the second species of soil ; this lalter va- 5*iet,v of land it called in the colonial lai!f^ua,u:e oC Ihe country fulcn'ul land. 'J'hls soil is, as I have already observed, moi-e sj)un{^}' (ha« that of th« alluvion, an<] certainly much less productive. I ought, however, (o premise that unusual rains had preceded my visit to this coimt ry, and tliat many jdaces apjjcared then wet and even inundated, ^vhicli would not be subject to sin'iiiar inconven- ience in a moi'e ntoderate season. The water lel't on the ground by recent rains, could not neverthe- less, destroy the means of lorming a correct couj- parative estimate. From a ji^reater slope, every other circumstance equal, the intcrral hind ojig'it to be less moist than the alluvion, the contrary is, as I have observed the I'aet. 'I'he varieties ol* iimbcr upon the interval, does not nsalerially dif- lei* from those upon the alluvial land, except black l)irch (betula ni;^ra) v«'hich is more abundant upon Che former than u^mn the latter soil. Ascendin;^ towards the suinnsit of the hills, and helbre gaining the apex, I foimd deej) ruts inaving the vast ex- [uinse around Utiea. Upon the (ahlc land above the mica slate, now repose iiuuiense bodies of rounded granite and bas- altic pebble. The present respective position of these roeks, arc so difterenl from that assigned them b^' geologists, and the diflieulty of aeeounting from an} known operation of nature, for the trans- {jortation to sueh distance from their primitive beds, and elevation to sueh heights of blocks of granite and basalt, often eight or ten feet diameter, that the task of aeeounting for existent phenomena must be left by me, to those better qualified, or more disposed to enter into the disquisition. I can u!i!y observe, that the schist or slate demonstrably reposes in its primitive position ; whilst the incum- bent pebbles, enormous as they are, have evidently been Ibrcf d into their present state, by the agency of sonse iluid. AVater, as that body now operates in either of its known states of ice or fluidity, could never preserve in motion, consequently transport one of the blocks I have seen to any, even the smallest distance, much less cover an im- mense stiriace with those rounded masses, Mhich exiiibit all sizes, from a grain of sand to bodies of more tiian twenty feet diameter. This with many LET. v.] FACE OF THE COUNXnY. 6] —13 odicr plicnnmonal have aeon, induoos nic (o bdievo tliat an onli'i* ut'diiiigs once, and luraf^rcat ion^lli of (ini«>, I'xiiitcil upun lliis pla.ii'i, prudiiciii;^ clK'Uii tliiU iriiiaiii wiiiMi liii'ir cau^ics have ceaiL'ii (u u|ic* raff, perhaps lorevi'i*. lj|)ur; (he (able land, stii^ai* maple ceases alniosl entiirl^ , though ho very ahuiidaiit upon (he alluvi- al, in(ei'val, and even upon (he Hcitis(use tract. The blaek hii-eh eonunenees a shi'uh near the Ma- hawk river, but \vhet\ elevated upon (he (able l,i:iil, assumes the size and majesty of a rores( Iree ofihu first magnitude. Beeeh on (he eo!i(rai7, a stately ti'ee on (he low grounds, dwindles in nioiuiiiiig to a n)0]v alpine air, and upon the table land is rare, and of stinted growth. I'Jm and lieiuloek forms the mass of the fore**:! upon the table land. Either Irorp i!:c fla(ness of the land or from some other cause, the table land is extremely swampy, and of course inconvenient (o cultivate ; it is here narrow, not exceeding a mile in width. Upon the northern brow of i!ie hill, a prospect expands of little less diuieusions than that seen from its southern slope. The northern landscape is less interesting than the sou(hern at this time, as presenting only a mass of woods with a few open- ings only, whereas that of the south exhibits an immense surface of cultivated country. To me this northern view was hi.i;h!y pleasing., ns it iirst laid before me, upon its back ground, part of the basin of the Canadian sea. Descending the ileulivity. 1 gazed upon the blue verge before me as if I had felt myself entering into a new world. To me this transition was not illusory. Though upon the same planet, and even upon the samo eontinent, (he images I now see around me are so F2 :H 6^ '. , ••.i UTIC.V TO TKMXTO-T. [tET. V. diilVn'nt fidin tlmso I have F;r(Mi For u long pcnml uci'«Lst():iu'«l Ui i,-. hold. (Iitit inv siMisafious would iiul i)c iiiuuh iitoi'c changed if I was transpoi'ted to another world in reality. I ibnnd tlie snriaee of the slope as I descended, composed of elav^ sand* and immense bodies of rounded pebble. I'he present slaJe of the interior of North America, exhibits phenomena at everj step, which demonstrate that water or some oth- er llnid has flowed over the surface of the land fot* a ver^ great length of time. This fluid has beeu the agent of modiiieation. Whilst the surface near the Canadian sea continued in a state of submer- sion, it is very probable that the face of the earth was generally uniforiri tlioisgh inclining. When the waters retired, the v the in* crease of population, wi'ullli, and inulligrnce.* * The following is from tlmt very vnlitablo citizen Mr. Ray de ChauiDont, and was pubii.^litd in the IMcitaiitire Advt^itiser of the city ol" New- York, Nov. l.tli, 18.8. It will be seen that 1 liaveUie honor to agree in opinion with Mr. Cliamnont, as lo the true rea- son wiiy orchards are n<»t more frequent in the north-west part of the state of New- York. 1 6o not renieinber lo lui over seen condensed in so lew words, the various inducenienls lo pljriting and cultivating orchards^ as in tins short; ap])iopriate, and judi- cious address. '• Extract from an Address, pronounced before the Agricultural Society of Jelierson county, at their lirst annual fair, Jield at AVatertown, Sept. 29, i8lb— By J. Le Kay de Chauuiont, Vmn- ident of the Society. '• To those who have rot been sparii'g enonph of their fencing ■wood, 1 would recon.njend the plantir.g of young lienilock lo make hedges. 1 met with such near Philadefphia, on the farm of .Tudge Peters, one of the ni<:st distil guj.si.ed agriculturalists of the age, whose example alone must l;a\e great weight. " It was ibr some time doubled b) many whether this country ■would ever become favorable to the growth ol Iruit lues It is true, thai in n.anv places, the first ali. |Mrdtieii;g in the grtattsi abundance. It is mn< h to le r( <>iiUtj,« nn.t its n.nst ha\e effectually re- moved tveiy (kn.l 1 as to the success of futme attempts. The e.xpenfe of i)laj)ting an orchard is trivial; ccmpaied vith its ad- LET. Y. UTIOl TO TUEXTO-V. MILES. 4 — 17 Jlemsau A \iilage in the right bank of AVcst Catiadn crook. 2—19 L. Hough's, 3—22 T. M. bhddoiis. 1 — '^3 Ilohnun'ti, 3 — 20 lluti'lvjfs. 1_27 SUhini'i'"iy. I — 31 lioonville nvon IJic head d'rcams nf liluck river. Mir, Jielit at iniuiit, Vix&' vantages, considtring it meiely as a source of profit. Bi:t the comfoitahlo hixiiry it a(rt)rds is of itself a swilicieiit iuduceii.ent j and I might fmthcr add, if necessary, that a man of spirit would draw encouragement from the circumstance, that a good orchard is the ornament of alarm, and gives the stranger a favoiahie opinion of tlie wealth, taste, comfort and economy of the owner, while on the contrary, the sight of a farm destitute of lliese use- ful improvements, gives iiim tlie idea of barrenness and indolence. Those who liave neglected the planting of fruit trees would do well to visit some of the flourishing orchards at a small distance from this village. There they would receive a lively reproof for the past, and great encouragement for amending in future. Some will regret that the owners of l! iise line wdiards have not extend- evitli little admix- ture uf shells, and extremely hard, now formn iii« base of the eouutry. Timber continues as before noted. The country is very hilly and broken. Black river is in ev?:'y respect a nionnfain stream ; the tributary waters uhich form it ilow on each side from very elevated land, when conjpared with th» bed of the princij^al viver. Hills rising very abrupdy range along to I he west of the road, and now at near the middle of ]\Iay, are pouring dov\n Hoods formed by melting snow, masses of which are fre- quently visible from the road, reminding the trav- eller that the chill of winter is not passed. 2 — 38 Village of Leyden. 2 — iO Lcijden Fast Office, 6— ie House-':. 3 — i9 Gulf creek, a large branch of Black river. Mavtinsbnrgf s'jat of justice, in and for Lewis counfy. Here I remained over night, and on the morning of JNIay 12lh, recommenced my journey. Louville. Wrighrs, Deer river, A considerable and extremely rapid branch of Black river. Its banks and bed schistose lime. stone, a ledge of which forms a beautipil cascade within fifry yards above (he road, which passes the stream at this place over a good substantial wood- en bridge. The river has worn a deep channel vliose banks are nearly perpendicular. Deer river has its source in the same ridge of hills, which pro- duces Salmon river. The very considerable falls which occur in both streams^ prove the great cle- LET. V.j WATEUTOWN. 67 MILES. — iib valion of (!u'ir sources. Salmon rivor rises. pnHly in l.cuis and partly in Oswego county ; ils ineneral eoui'sy is, however, in the latter, runniuj; west lliirty I) il< s, eui.ers ]\I«'xie»/ JJay of lake (Iniario, Iweuly-five luiles, a little west (.r south, IVoni Sack- el's IJarhour. 15esi(!{' a ninnber ofcalaracls ofless- er note, tijis sjforf river lias in oue instance, a fall ol* upwards oC one hundred Icet. l__6fi T. Campbell's. 3 — (;9 Champion ViUas;e. 6 — 73 ViUa^^e of llnlUuiiU Tulllc's larrrn. This villa;;e stands upon a bed of schistose Jimeston)', at the foot oC a ve>'" high and steep hill. The limestone in u>any places with a very slight covering. Kising the hill above the village, 1 had the pleasure to behold an extensive prospect back- wards over the country towards Utiea. Jietweea Rutland and Watertown, Blaek river has a large bend or sweep to the northeast, and a circumstance worthy of note^ is, that both branches of the Os- wegatehie have siihilar and correspondent bends. This adds another to the numerous proofs alion ed by the courses of our rivers, that in their original for]nation,they were inHueneed in many instances^ by causes which operated over extensive tracts of coun- try, and produced a uniformity which strikes f<»rcihly attentive observers, uj^ou our geological phcnou.cua. 6 — 81 Jt^alerlown, A line newly built Village, on the right bank of Black river, in .Jelferson county. A very visible change is now apparent in the soil and tiuiber, and surface of the countrv. From Ltica to Deer river, hemlock swamps are frequent, nmch of the road j;ass- es these swamps, on causewa,\s or round logs, pro- diu'ing very (Ircsome and tedious travelling. These tfd IIROWKVILLE. [let. Y. MILKS. —81 'fill, •i— .85 Bwainps become rare, since passing Doer river, and before reaching Watertown cnliiely cease. Oak and hickory now intermixes >vith the otlier species of timber trees in the composition of the forests. Hemlock has become scarce. The super- stratum of the soil, is a black loam, intermixe() ^'ith rounded pebbles, resting upon a base of strata- fied limestone. Fields of small grain arc here visible in every direction, and in many places \^here the stratum of incumbent soil above the limestone, is so scanty as would seem to preclude culture. Good thriving orchards of apple and pear trees also abound. At AVatertown, Black river has worn a channel into the solid limestone of forty or Afty feet in depth. The river is about sixty yards wide, and has by far the most rapid current of any river, great or small, that I have ever seen ; it may, indeed, be considered from its source to its mouth as a chain of rapids, interpersed occasionally with placid intervals, which are compensated by falls, of from 10 to 70 feet perpendicular. Black river is, in point of size, the third stream whose entire course is in the state of Xew-Yorkk I'he quantity of water in its current at this season, is no doubt, above the medium of its volume, but at all times tliis stream must discharge a body of water greater than would be expected from its comparative length on our maps. BroicnviUe, Leaving Watertown, the road crosses Black river on a fine wotxlen bridge, and continues to Brown- ville along tlie bunk of Black river, over a bed of limestone, in many places nuked rock wiliiout any vegetable eartli, trees often standing upon the smooth surface of the stone, and only prevented LET. Y.] BBOWNVILLB. 69 MILES. —85 from falling by extending their roots between the interstices of the rock. ■ About half a mile below AVatertown, the river rushes over a rapid of more than four hundred yards in length. Lined on both banks by precipices of limestone, upon which) the stream impetuous as it is, can make but a very slow impression. Dashing with apparently irresistible force, the rage of the current is repelled by the rough shelving shores. Where the road passes near this cataract, the river is one sheet of foam, presenting a scene of grandeur much superior to what would be commonly ex- pected from the supposed diminutive volume of water. « The village of Brownville is indebted for not only its name, but its existence also, to that dis- tinguished American general, Jacob Brown, who has his family residence within its precincts. The village is built upon the right bank of Black river. A cataract with a perpendicular fall of 15 or 20 feet, opposite the village, has afibrded a very eligi- ble site for mills, which has been improved. A substantial woo4len bridge has been extended over Black river above the mills. I passed this place in a heavy rain, and had not so good an opportunity of observing its position as I could have desired. From all I could perceive, the village and the ad- jacent country exhibited marks of prosperity and rapid improvement. Black river continues below Brownville its ordi- nary rapidity for about two miles, wh?re it is lost in the head of the former bay de Nivernois, a small part of which forms the well known Sacket's Har- bor. The road after crossing Brownville bridge, winds m^ 70 SACKEt's IIAl'JSOR. [LKT. VI. fTS'lMi;:' MILRS. — 85 a!)(nit (Iiroe miles j](.,vn tlio vsillrv of Dlack river, l!ii-n risi's upon the ilat (al)le laiul, nnd condiiiii'S five ii'iles farJher over a bed ul' selilstose limestone, to (he villap;e of 8— j)3 Sackers JIarlmv. At Hie thvv. I IravelhMl in this quarter, (lie p!i!)!ic stage stopped al AValertowii, and travellers were obliged to liireeae- I'iages IVoiu Individuals. My eoiupan^- and nivscH' were able (o proenre only open wa;;j:«ns ; and as disappointment or kj\y oilier kind of nii"^'*! vIion lannolii'd, is coneralod* leaving lo view hor njorc sliovv, but less subsfanliul upper ivoi'lvH, but while on the stocks, the vuHtnesa of tltis intended buttery h visible. I'he uavul ofnccrs have erected nn immense frame building over the New-OHeans. Under the shelter of a elose root** Iter timbei'S mjII lallier gain in quality tban deteriorate by time. She now stands, in silent, but in terrible prepara- tion. A stair way lends from her prow, to the highest part of her stern, ending in a railed baleony with seats, from Avhieh in one comprehensive prospect is included, the to\vn, barracks, harbour and adjacent shores. An ascent to this singular observatory^ is amongst the most interesting treats awaiting the traveller to Saekct*8. Captain AVoolsey, the commodore upon this station, exercises the most laudable politeness towards strangers; his kindness enabled me to enjoy this, which is one of the most gratifying pleasures of my li(e. \L'vy excellent stone barracks stand upon the bank of the bay, about 400 yards east of the village. The ntau^rial is the blue schistose limeslone, which forms the base of (he whole adjacent neighborhood. The barracks are in the form of three siMi\iu>. 'I'ito Ixirdci' of iltc lake \» uni- roriniv luv. not Iiriii;^ olcviilcd aliovc ilio vatci' more lliiiii lliire or foiii' I'crl ; the dchris iliroMii up bv titc a('llego, are Keen far inland. This unirormiiy rensains \s\i\i hut little Interruption, until the entranw of St. Lanreuee : here the islands are many of them thirty or forty feet elevated ahove the water.— \Vhat is ealled the 'i'housand IshiUils, seems to he a j;ra- nite ehain uhich erosses the river, and divides its bed into n maze, intricate beyond imnj;inati(>n ; a seene more savage, rude, and wild, does not p( rhaps any v. here exist on earth. The plueid ^nd most purely limpid water, redects the bro- ken rocks, and the few trees and sluubs tliat rise amid iheir fractnn d rii«n«i ?'»o human habitation appesirs, to en- Jiven for an instant this picture of eternal waste. Passing iliis region of silent desolation, a fairy scene opens ; a scene that to me was the more di light fu!, because unexpected. AVherc the Thousand Islands terminate, the river opens first into a kind of bay, and then in two or three miles again con- tracts ; the shore rising on each bank by a gentle acclivity, presents a W)untry I have never before seen equalled, in res- pect either to soil or situation. The Ohio, beautiful as are Its banks, affords in all its extent, nothing comparable (o the hanks of St. Lawrence, from the U'housand Islands to this place. The Canada sitle is by far the best cultivated, and as I have already remarked, possesses the advantages of more exposui'c to the sun. For many miles the margin of this river appears like a well cullivufcd garden. Ihe I ■ LET. VII.] llAMILTOy. rs American or L'. S. Hliorr, rxhibits rn;>Iccted. We will, perhaps, commence business on the boundary line, in the ensuing week. The season continues unpleasant, and thrugh rain does not fall in any great quantities, it is rrequent. The rirer St. Lawrence is about two feet perpendicular above its ordina- ry level, and slowly rising, and w ill no doubt fall as slowly. Notwithstanding, however, the chilly air produced hy so much moisture, sjiri!!;;, advances daily, and promises & sea- son more pleasant. 11i« atmosphere, and the present state of vegetation, have a remarkable resemblance to similar pho nomena in lower Louisiana, early in March. From what I have seen, I have no doubt but that June and ,Tuly nre here, as every w hero else in Xorth America, the most sigreeable months in the year. " re u6l*knsuui'.(;h. [let. Vlll LETTER Vlll. m . ' ■)' Ogdcushursli, June 28, 1818. Yrti have, uo iloubt, seen in lh« puhlie jirinls sonic s(ale- inenls re:. peeling a man of tlie name of Gonrlay, wlio is now makings poli(ical (our (hruugh the Canadas. The dajK be- Jbie jeslerday, a (ounsliip meeting waseulled directly oppo- tsitc our eamp, >vhieh terminated in a riot, in whieh Mr. Vhat they eould gain by a revolution in the pi'eseiil order of things, I must eonfess I cannot couipre- Jiend. The commerce carried on upon the Sf. Lawrence is im- mensely greater than we in the United States commonly bu- lieve. 'l"l)e single article of lumber must employ very con- siderable numbers. Rafts are passing almost constantly. Flour and many other ailieles are exported to a t'cry great amount. The entire line of the Canada side of the river from Montreal and even from Quebec, is well peopled and cultivated. • Since wi'iting the above, I have seen a National InteHigen- cer, containing some notices oi' Gourlay, aud explaining V ho he is and from whence he originated, 'jlie substance of this eominimication is no doubt triic, and obliges me to POLITICAL. rr LET. VIII.] believe that, as I have hefure stated, there is more tlinii meets the eye in (Ijis hiisiiicss. Ti;e iiiagist rates o<* Upper Canada are iiiiich at a loss to know liow they oiig;ht to pro- ceed.* * This embaiTassment does not seem to have been removed, as will be seen by the following extracts from the proceedings ot' the Colonial legislature of Upper Canada. From the expressiojis used by the governor in his address, he has viewed the operations of Gourlay :»j a serious affair; and so it may become, if any very coercive remedy is applied. The governor and his council ex- press respect for the constitutional right of petition, and they aie correct in their cautionary proceedings on that subject ; any open attempt to abridge the liberty of remonstrance might lead to a recurrence to the last resource of the oppressed. A law of^)r»- vention may operate by inflaming tlie malady it will be intendixl to cure. Fork, (U. C.J Oct. 20. The speech of the governor, sir Pcri- grine Maitland, on the opening of the parliament of Uppor Cana- da, contains the following paragraph in relation to the conren- tion : " In the course of your investigation you will, I doubt not, feel a just indignation at the atlenipl which has been made to oi-icite discontent, and to organize sedition. Should it appear to you that a conventioH of delegates cannot exist without danger to the constitution, in framing a law of prevention, yonr dispasjionatt' wisdom will be careful that it shall not unwarily trespass (>n that sacred right of the subject to seek a redress of his grievfuices by petition." To this passage, the legislative council made the following ro- " We shall at all times feel a just indignation at every attempts which may excite discontent or organize sedition, and if it shall appear to us that a convention of delegates cannot exist without danger to the constitution, in framing a law of prevention, we will be careful that this shall not, unwarily, tiospasson the sacred right of the subject, to seek a redress of his grieyiUices by peti- tion ' » To the same paragraph, the commons house of assembly re- ply as follows ; , " We feel a Just indignation at the systematic attempts that have been made to excite discontent anU organize sedition in this happy colony, whilst the usual and constitutional mode ot appeal for real or supposed grievances has ever been open to the people of tUis province, never refused or even appealed to, and i* 78 rol.lTICJAL. LF/r. VII 1. My op'UMhiHitv d* (iliservliigoilhor (lie jiulitieul or moral situiiiiuit oi' the peo|>lc of Cana\hieh formed the presimt United States, previous to their seeesi»ion from the parent state. AVhilst Great Britain, continues to exercise luDderalion to\^ar(ls her colonies in Canada, so long her pow i't over them will remain unimpaired. Any exertion of au- llvority, however, that Mill in any manner conipromit the rights of the Canadians, "^vill dissolve the spell, that pre- isuriptive habit has formed between the rulers and (he ruled. "Ilie history of (Jreat Britain uould hardly justify an ex- jM'ctation, that the p(di(ieal proceedings of i(s government, >vi\l be conducted prudently, in all cases, towards any peo- ple subjected to her power. We would risk little in suppo- hiiig, that some indiscreet ministry will repeat towards Canada ^iutiiskr folly to thai which severed from the motber country the L'liited States. As matters now stand, a serious ruptuiu cannot be expected, nor vould be pruuent on either side. There is another light, in which (lie people of Canada of- fer an interesting spectacle to those of the United Stales; that is :a) nppr<»aci.ing union or rivalry. In ciihcr case, (he latter peaj)le w ill be gieatly afi'ected by the former. 'Jhougli rfpealiing the same language, enjoying a similar system of deeply lament that the insidious designs of one factious individual ^h«^uld have succev.ded in diavsing into the support of his vile ma- chinations, 6o many Iionrst men and loyal subjects to his majes- ty. We renipmher that this fuvoied land wa^ sss-igned to our fa- ihers as a rcticav fbr siifli'i nig loyalty, and not a sanctuary for sedition. In tl>e course of our investigation, should it appear lo this house that a conwntion of delegiUes cannot exist wiliiout danger lo the consti'-Jtion, in framing a law of piexenlion, we will carefully dislinguith between such convention ind the lawful act of the subject in petitioning for a rcdiess of real or imaginary grievances, that sacred jijjiil uf c'vciy Driliili euljott which v>v vhII ever hold inviolable.'' UttT, VIII.] rOLITlCAL. n ' same juiisjuMidrnee, and regulafod in Jhcir piiwJc condud hy thu sunic relij^ion, vet in polidcal opiniun, a wine ilifli'rcjiee ex- ists between .lie Canadians and llie people ol* t!»c United States. In the JiUtei* eoiMitrv, one geneealii^n has passed away since the nienioi'able revolution, that {j;ave them na- tional hti'th ; the men that now act upon the theatre o" pub- lic tttt'airs have been bred republicans, and sueh they are in custom, manners and lorm. The Canadians have been edu- cated, at the same time, in the higiiest tone uf royally. One party views the trappings of regal pageantry with contenipt, the other considers a(<( fnpered monarchy, as the surest gua- rantee of private rifi,ht. Both have a stiong sense of liuman dignity, both consider governments instituted lor (he protec- tion, and not oppression of society j both feel the omor put- ria with all its force. If Canada was by any means made an integral of the United States, and like liouisiana, given a legislative equali- ty in the national councils, the force of the preconceived opinions of its inhabitants would soon he felt. By a singu- lar inconsistency, the men who in our last war with Great Britain, were anxious foi* a conquest of Canada, weie also, as a party, those who had every thing to fear from the ac- complishment of their own wishes. In case of union, it de- mands but little foresight to anticipate the consequence. Many citizens of the United Slates will smile at the sug- gestion of rivalry, between their country and Canada. For- ty-three years ago, so snided the mijiistry of (ireat Britain. Tue march of time, and the developement of events, have taught the administration of that haughty government, a lesson of bitter experience. I wisli our nation may profit, by one of the most astonishing events in Imntan history; an event that gave it a naipeon earth, and an event that ougbt to convince the world, how iittlc dependanee there is in the stability of coniparalive power. Every ^ear gives me mos'c and more seeptlciism, respecting worldly wisdom. Accident *9 ''i ■. ¥^4 m ■, ..-.;.i.'.'. 80. rOLITICAL, [Lwr. > ai l!i.&r>. hcciiis (o \hihie have bartered the Ve have giveq the sweat of our brow* i(» ilie most idle and useless of our species, and have received hiripes and contumely in exchange. AVe have divided our i'4'tentlf>n between the wretchedness of the thousand and th« j^lillci "i^ the cue. Oui ears have been assailed with the r,BT. Ylfl."' roLITICAl., 8il cries of i;'.;: iTor and slavery, op i' galcd witli 'he orgies of piinipered luxury. Let no one deny the truth of* • i«e above- and bring the United States as an example of its fallacy. The people »r the United States form a very small |)art of the human fam-' ily, and are themselves far from being improved to die ut- most, or ahsolutehj sceured against retrogradation. They nevertheless afibrd evidence of an entire cliangc in opinion, a change pgainst which sceptres and mitres will in vain eon- tend. Europe has by no means recovered from the conse- quences of the fall of the Roman Kmpire. AiQiedngas it nr.iy be, it is a fact, there exists not one well coalesced gov- «.'rnment in Europe, except Franc* . No other political as- sociation, but is composed of shreds of heterogeneous ma- terials, either in a state of anarchy or forced connexion. ^Nothing bas ajipearcd to shew that tJie monarchs of the day have any adequate conception of producing any better slate of things. It may not be irrelevant to our subject, to view the nations of Euro|)eas they now stand, in relative numbers. To gain any philosopliical result, language must be the line of di- vision and comparison; it is the only durable mark of dis- tinction. At this time there are in Europe about thirty mil- lions who speak French ; thirty millions who speak Ger- man and its dialects ; between tbirty-flve and forty millions wIiQ ^peak Selavonian and its dialects; twenty millions who nse the Italian ; ilfleen millions of English ; about an equal number of Spaniards and of modern Cireeks. The Turks, (hough in Europe fur upwards of 330 years, are still foreign- ers, and few in number. It is singular that, except the French, none of the nations of Eui'ope are formed out of. and contain masses who speak the same langtjuge. The poliiical divisiotis have arose from blind chance, or the people have been driven together by vi- olence. The art of government, as directetl towards it on- ly legiliinate ends, the security, pioteelion, and instruction 41 :1 '•a!»ii a'^ POLITICAL. [let. VIII. of (he gieut body ol* nations, is not even in its infancy ; as a science it exists not. This is a bold, but unioi'tunatcl^ true usbcrlion. The feudal system reigns in all its pristine istrengtli; as far as the abstract scienee of governniint is con- cerned. Then; appears to have bwn a curious mixture of supersti- tion and ferocity in the character of the northern nations, vho overcame the lloman Empire. Either employed in acts of cruelty, or piety— -building churches or castles. From this bent of the human mind, has arisen the principle, that produced the present corporate establishments of Europe. Every thing bends eitlier to religion or war. Schools, celle* ges, and academies, arc directed elthei* by soldiers or prit'sts. The revenues of the various states, are expended on scheutes. of ambition, or paid to men >vho are worse than idle. AVhoIc nations,, the i^anie in language, customs, manners, and dress, arc kept artfully in a stale of hostility ; such as the Ciermaus, Italians, uiid now the English. Nations wha differ in cMivy rt^ipcet, have no common interest, are stran- gers lo eacJi other, and wlio by a dilTerenfi* of language, are prevented from fo: iiiing any tie of sympathy, are united un- der one monarch j bueii arc the Germans, Bohemians, and llungurjians ; sueh are the Italians and Germans ; sueli aro (he Dutch and Ik'Igians ; such the English, Irish, and Scotch; sueh are the fjissiutis, Poles, and Finns, and suelt are the Turks and modern Gre«'ks. ' With sueh systems of government, can any wonder be ex- cited that hatred and eoutempl should prevail vM-vy where. The people arc kipi in a ni.ite ot profound ij^noraiiee of their rights, iu^^'c loif.:^ ;J»uudom(l aii} eoni-eption of as^el•ling that, for theiij wcrv- aii g«vernm<*n(s instituted, and by them ought all governm;als to be administered. A liaughty aristocracy, and cringing hirrurehy, possess the execution ancl fruits of povviM*; the creator of the goods of life, the farm- er and artisun, depresiicd, wretched ami poor, have retained LET. Ylll.] POLITICAL. 88 the possession of scarce enougli of the (hings (he)' (heinsclve» have made, lo preserve existence. 'Jlietruth of this picture cannot be denied. It may seem difficult to account for such gross ignorance, such apathy* and such furheavance in society ; but when the sources from >vhi»b the instruction of the people are examined^ the r^e- iiomenon of their degradation vanishes. 'J'hat German should be arrayed against German ; lt;i)ian against Italian, and English against Englisli, and that the most enlightened nations of the globe in m»ny uther respects, should in the juost important of all their concerns, moral government, be still in the most barbarous stale, cannot exci(e asfoni^hment, when it is known huw iiitlc has been dune to instruct, and how much to brutifv man. A few, an invaluable few have existed in Europe, who have labored silen.ly to raise the species from their wretched ijtate, have endeavored to inspire, men with ideas of their own dignity, and have been rewarded with perseeution tVouj the rulers, and neglect from the ruled. Speci.lators, innovalurs, infidels, and all the vocabulary of abuse, ba>e been la^iblu-d upon their heads ; even the word philosophy itself, has been changed to an epithet, and appiiid to the most wise and be- nevolent plans. The struggle between good sense and power, has continu- ed with daily increasing violence, since the invention ofprinl- ing. How this contest is to terminate, it is now difllcitll lo predict ; but such is thepowerl'iil iiid ;,^iven to reason by the press, that the best result may be hojxd. The French rev- 'ilution vas nutliing more than an effect of litis luag opposi- tion of prescriptive usurpation, again^^t a relin(]!!ishnient of power, 'i'hose who >iew the triun)ph of despolism as co; >- plete, know lillle (»!' human nature, and less of the ordinary course of thing- in the world. Every s^ui|»loni evinces au approaching sl.u'm, of perhaps tenfold more violenc*', tliiiii the one so lately abated. That :he po(«'ntates of Euro];e >* ill be cojvpclled to acce»l<' to llie wishes of their suijects, and 8^ POLITICAL. [let. VIII. parliciimto; vadiuv than engross (lie sovereign nutlioritj, or ugaiu defend (heir antique rule hy the sword, is very cer- tain. Whether, after long and reiterated abortive attempts^ the gross of society Mill eroneh to an Asiatic principle of divine right, or succeed in forming more rational, and of course more stable foims of government, >vill be soon de- termined. Upon th'is approaching Aviiir]\^ ind, the people of the United States look \vith their accustomed indifference, lil tie aware )io\v much their own affuirH must be influenced by the issue. Living under a form of government, having many of the most seductive features of the feudal system, wc aiv far from having any other guarantee than our own |n-udence, against the ordinary ill effects that have been e.\perienced in every instance, where that system has been tried. In our Mtate, and confederated gnvernmenis, we are feudal in a high degree. If not prevented hy a train of extremely fortunale events, our posterity must one day find, that neither similar- ity of language or opiuiun, can sciiire them against the eon- bcqiiences of anihidun, ]U'ide and violence. Ueligious or moral precepts, are hut feeble barriers against the evil pro- pensities of the hiiiiian heart. Me liavc, however, two insu- perable adv; wtages, that do more for our security lh;tlTltAt. 87 << uUimatc ohjenl ; ami us (he prcscrviUion of (hiit valiiablo ** coluii^' iias always been deemed worthy of our strenuouH « eirortSf \vc cannot he too uiiich on our guard against the " slow working poliej", hy which that government endeavors *< to eompass its ends, or too lieedrul in adopting precaution- *< ary measures to avert a threatening danger, however re- « mote it may at first appear." Bouchctte is a rcsiieetablc writer, and a native of Canada ; hcf it appears, lias been, however, either deceived, as it res- pects the real views of the United States, or he charges our government with what, if true, would be gross folly. Cana- da, with all its loyalty, has been rather a charge than a ben- efleiary appendage to Great Britain ; to the republicEAR Sir, The Commissioners are advancing with the survey of the SL Lawrence river, and its inlands, in ort "r (o designate the boundary line, between the United States and Upper Canada. The operations of last year terminated about a mile above Ogden's Island, opposite the village of Hamilton, where wc commenced this season, and have progressed to a little above 1,'iu IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. Z 1.0 I.I ■^ 1^ III 2.2 1.8 1-25 i 1.4 i 1.6 V] <^ /a /. 7 /A Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 iV '^ LV \ 1^^ '^ '1!^ %_^^' ^ 88 RIV£R ST. l.iWUKNCE. [let. Ix. r )•' this village. The survey is conducted with great precision, but with a consequent slowness, that is extremtly iuuonipal- ible with luy views, and induces nie, together with some oth- er reasons, to quit the liusiness and proceed on a tour to tl^ westward, through New-York, Pennsylvania, Oliio, Michi- gan, and Upper Canada. I expect to set out in the ytcam- Boat to-morrow, on my way to Sacket's Uarbor, tmd Buffa- lo, and Detroit. I have already mentioned to you, in a former conimuniea- tion, that the St. Lawrence, properly speaking, eomnjences near this town, as above this place a very slight current is perceptible. I have been engaged in surveying the Gallop rapids and islands, at the head of which the strong currents iirst commences. A map of this very curious group is en- closed, which will serve to exhibit the peculiar eonstruclioii of the St. Lawrence islands. Whenever I attempt a general or detailed description of this beautiful river, I feel the difficulty of the undertaking, from its dissimilarity to any other stream wilh which you are acquainted. I doubt indeed, if it has any near ^.uirallel upon our globe. Though I may not succeed in giving yoit any very precise conceptions of its more minute features, I hope to place hefore you such a picture of its general physi- ognomy, as will enable you, with your accustomed force of fancy, to form an adequate idea of its great outline. Though in compliance with the common mode of expression, I call Idle Fi. liawrence a river, yet according to the principles laid down, \\hen speaking of the Hudson, the former stream would be more correctly a strait, uniting the great lakes to the Atlantic ocean, than a river, in the strict meaning of that term. Since my arrival on the boundary, I have seve- ral times had arguments with different members of the com- mission, respcciing the comparative volume of the St, Law- rence and the Mississippi rivers. In n»y statistics of Louis- iana, I have calculated (he quantity of water discharged by the IMiisissljjp : I shuil now for your satisfaction institute a Ix. LET. IX.] # ST. LAWREXCE RIVEK. %9 general estimate of, and comparison lietweicn tliosc two {^roai Nortli Ameriuan vivors. J liave already premised that when speaking of the quantity of water in, or land drained by the Mississippi and St. Lawrence rivers, all the country is itieant, which is watered hy theil* tributary branches. The following table exhibits the area of the diflferent see- tiohs of country, drained by the St. Lawrence* TABLE OF THE SUPERFICIES, DRAINED BY THE VALLEY OF THE ST. LAW- RENCE RIVER. 'J Region lying N. W. of Lake Superior, do. nortli-east of do. North of Lake Huron, and vvest of the sources of the Otlawas river, Peninsula between Lakes Huron, Erie, and Ontario, North-west of St. Lawrence, below the sources of the Oltawas river, Total area N. W. of St. Lawrence, Region N. E. of the St. Lawrence, from its mouth to that of the Rich- elieu, . - - - - Triangle included between Black, St. Lawrence, and Richelieu rivers, South of Lake Ontario, west of Black river. South-east and South of Lake Erie, and east of Maumee river. Peninsula of Michigan, West of Lake Michigan, and soiith of Lake Superior, Total south-east and south-west, - Area of Lake Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, - - - Ontario, Allowance for the area of St. Law- rence river, and the smaller lakes. Medial Leni;th. *00 400 Medial Breadth 80 80 Area Sq. Miles. 34,000 32,000 200 200 40,000 200 80 1 6,000 700 220 154,000 26f^.!>00 500 30 25,000 230 Ho 16,500 200 80 1 6,000 300 250 30 150 9,000 37,500 400 300 200 270 250 180 120 100 100 50 60 40 48,000 ii2,uoa a ■ 418,000 30,000 20',000 13,500 15,000 7,200 \ 1,500 b7,2U(; li I:-: -f f. f I ui ■: % I ■i'm m Mm 90 MISSOURI RIVEH; SUMMARY. [let. IX, S(iuare Miles. Total area north-west ol" St. Lawrence river, 266,(300 Total soulli-east and souih-wesl of do. - 152,000 Total eovcied with water, . - - 87,200 Total area of St. Lawrence valley, - - 603,200' TABLE OP THE SUPERFICIES, DRAINED I'.f THE 3IlSSI6SiPri AND TAUY BUANCIIES. \'alley of Ohio, - - - do. of llie Mississippi proper, above the mouth of iviissouii, do. of the Missouri and its con- fluents, . . . - do. of Arkansaw river, do. of lied lvi>er, - - Narrow ship cast of the Mississip- pi, audbelo.v ihe mouth of Ohio. Vallevs of White and Jjt. irancis rivers, . . - - Total area of the Mississippi val- ley, Modirtl 7U0 750 1330 lUO lOUO 400 200 Medinl Breadth. 300 300 500 100 100 ITS TRIBU- Arcii Sfj. Mile?. 206,0U0 225,000 575,000 110,000 100,000 70 28,000 xiO^ 50,000 1,394,000 Before leaving New-York, and when employed in writing Jlie Emigrant's Guide, 1 carefully measured and calculated the respective superlieies, drained hy the St. Lawrence and Mississippi rivers, the former came so near to 500,000 square miles, that I assnnted that area in round numbers, re-nieasuring the same stream hy section;, the result is, as you perceive. At the same period I also measured the Mis- sissipi, and found i(s area varied so little from 1,400,000 squjH-e miles, that I assumed that number as sufficiently ac- curate for general purposes. Calculating again by sections, I found 1,394,000 square miles. From these various esli- LET. IX.] HIVr.R ST. LAWIIUNCE. 91 mates, I aui confident that neither of these surfaees are es- sentially incorrect, us iar as our nmps are enliilcil to cou- Udcnce. The outline of the two streams are respectively as fol- lows : that of the St. L.iwrenee .'?,5()0, that of the i^,lissis- sippi 5,fiOO. Of these distances the two rivers have inter- locking hranehes, from the head of ihe Allej^uny Ijianch of Oliio, to the sources of the lilississippi and Lake Superior, which followinj^ the sinuosities of Iht dividing line, stretch along 1,^00 miles. Rising from the same vast tahle laud, and having such ex- pended connexion, it is surrlv wortliy of remark, that n© two rivers on earth so essenJisjIly diJter in their general features, as do the Mississippi and St. liawrenee. The for- mer is turbid, in many parts to muddings, tiie latter unequal- ly limpid. One river is composed of an almost unbroken idiain of lakes, the other in all its vast expanse, has no lakes 4hat strictly deserve the name. Annually, the Mississippi overleaps its bed and overwiiehns the adjacent shores to a great extent ; an accidental rise of thiee feet in the course of fifty years, is considered an extraordinary swell of the waters of St. Lawrence ; this circumstance has occurred vouId not be in my power to give so extensive, or except in a small part, so accurate a picture of this remarkable stream. 1 have sent you a copy of iVIr. Jiouehette's descrip- tion, wiih occasional notes from myself, which together will, 1 ti'ust, convey a tolerable comprehensive view of the most singular ol)j<'(( in North American hydrography. ♦• The rjvcr St. Lawrence, (which from its first discovery in ih6b^ has been called by the inhabitants of the country, to mark iis pre-eminence, the Great river,) receives nearly all the livers, whirh have their sources in the extensive range of mountains to the northward, called the Land's Heigbt> that separates the waters falling into Hudson's Bay still fur- ther to the north, from those that descend into the Atlantic | Hnd all those that rise in (heriJge which commences on its LET. IX.] southern upon Lak OUawa, ] tier, Sygi] and the ^ Yamaska and Du 1 il is kno' from the Montreal Cataraqu for the ri six natioi led Niaji the Deti river St rior, the Mary fo Lake Su uvitiqn, n whence, continue the soun aminiug lieads to ted in a 4(ualled globe, ii 381, its *Col fprined granted ihe nov toiu has its liidiii French LET. IX.] HiVUR ST. LA\^'IlE^CK. •J soudicrn hank, and nins nearly soiilh-wcsforly, until it fisllff upon Lake C; aniplain. Of these, the principal ones are the 0((ava, Musquinonge, St. Manriee, St. Ann, .Tacfjues Car- lier, Syguenaj', Betsian»iies, and Maiiieouagan op the north ; and the Salmon river, Chatean.j^ay, C!iani!>ly or Riehelicn, Yaniaska, St. Francis, IJecaneojir, I)u Chene, Chuudiere, and Dn Lonp. on llie mmth. In diifcrent parts of its efnirsc it is known 'nd«*r i!iiii*rent appelhitions ; thus, as hi,"!^h up from the sea as .Montreal, it is eaiied St. Lawrence ; from Montreal to kin^slon in Upper ('anada, it is called the Cataraqni, or Jir<»<(uols ;* (Cataraqni wa«^ the Indj^n name for the river Iroquois, the name given by tljo French to the six nations) between lake Ontario and lake Krie, it is cal- led Niagara river; between lake Krie and lake Si. Clair, tlie Detroit ; between lake St. Clair and lake lluro.M, (ho river St. Clair ; and between lake Huron and lake Supe- rior, the distance is called the IKarrows, or the falls of St. Mary forming thus an uninterrupted connexion of 2000 niiles^ Lake Superior, without the ai • i, ■ V- 1152 uiik's ; rmd as remjukahlo Toi- iho imrivalKil lran.si)si- 1*011(7 ol' its >va(fjs, as i'ov iis oxlraoiiiinary (kplh. Jtis iioillifin I'oast, iriilfim'd willi >niin} cxtcn-ivf ba^s is liij;h lint) lockv ; Inil on llie soinlicrn ihore llic land is {;<'in rally low and lovol ; a sea almost of itscll', it i« subject to many vifissitiidcs ol' that olrmcnt, for lu-re tiic storm ra;;: actual perpeuclicular/a// of >vaier. The I'reiieh iiouii cliuti^, is iridiiiereuLly applied to eitlier a j"fl// or riipid, but also, more eon ectly to the latter: cataract siguifscs the ci^xm^ sense in I>olh lantruatre?. S' th: an tlii a 'ci IX. IBT. IX.] r.iKR nunoy. f»5 of the enormous discliarf;e from lake Superior, forcing i(s wa^ (!irou.t;lia eonfnied elianttel, and lircaklii}; with propor- tionate vioh'iiee anion;; tJic impediments that nature has thrown in ils way ; }'et tliis sernr of tumultuous and un- ceasing agitation oi' the waters, eomlkined witli the noise and dazzling whiteness ol* the surge, i^ not deiieient cillier in grandeur or magnirieeiurc." *» Lake Huron, in point oT extent, jiclds hut little to Lake Superior, its greatest length I'roni west to east is '^18 statute miles ; at its western extremity it is less than one hundred, and at a!»out one hundred uiilcs from its eastern shore, hare- ]y sixty miles (u'oad ; but near the centre it stiddenly bends away southward, to the breadth of one hundred and eighty miles J measuring the eireumlerenee through all its curva- tures, will give a distance of little less than 812 ntiles ; in shape it is exceedingly irregular, yct^ with a little assistance iVoui fancy, may he fashioned into something like a triangu- lar. From its we:^tern -^ide an extensive series, called the Manatoulin rslan^!.s, stretehes in an easterly direction for one hundred and sixty miles ; many of them njeasuring frou» twen- ty to thirty miles in length, by ii^'n, twelve, and iiftcen iti breadth, on some of Ahich the land rises into elevations of consi forming the Land's Height, to the §ou(hwiu'd j IVoni wlience descend nmny largt* and nuiiiei*ous iniVriur bMranis ihut dis- charge into it.* On the north side ol' lake Huron, mviny rivers of eonsiderahlc size run from tlie Land's lU'i},^ht down to it. One of them, called French river, communi- cates with lake JSipissing, fiom whence a succession of smaller onc^*. connected hy short porfages, opens an inter- course with the Ottawf! river, that joins the St. Law renew ^ear Montreal, i" On the eastern ej^irepii*)^ of the lake is *Tlie ])eninsiila between lakes Micliitfaii, Iliiron, St. Clair and Eric, and tlie riv< is St. Clair and DeUcit, now forms lln' Miclii- pail 'I'cnitoiy. It is conlidfMitly asserted by many, ibat, at high floods a connnunication does exist between lake Michi{,'an and Illinois river. If tliis assninption be well founded, it aflbrds one of the most astonishing hydj()gra|>liical anomalies on earth. It has long sjiice been deleniiined that the surface of lake trie is 565 feet above the level of tide water in the Hudson river at Al- bany. The dilll'ience of lev the mc the in course St. La very n yards monly there Avhole treme >Tiiles GOMtri LET- IX.] RIVERK OTTAWA AND lAGUENAr. I*? Ice II s- flu fii" I or 'V- in the Muchcdsish river, which, tlioiip;h anollicr suceeasion of Jakt'8, 8i'[>ir xoyam'S (o the noilli-wost. ['or llie distance oltlHf't' liiuulrrd inil«\s iVoiii its source, the course oitlie Ottawa is soulh<«ast, to wliere it aj;i- proaclies witiiin sixty miles of Kinirston in I'pper ('anada ; it then assuin(;s a eoinsc a little north of east, and lloN>iiit: in that direction about 200 miles joins the St. Iiawr»'iiee hy the lake ol the Two Mountains above MoiMreal. The volunu.' eontaiiied in, and discharged by the Ottawa, is imniens*?; few if any rivers on earth of an e(jual length equal this stream in (juautily of water. It is extremely interrupted by rapii' C'.inuda ; (liis rcuile woiilil most inali'i-iulljK shoiloii the m>i' lak<'s, and Ih rapalilc of sucli iiiiiirovcriKSil, as \\u\\\A rcndci' il lii^lil} lirm'ticial t(» t'pper Canada,* u suhjtct (liat \>ill l)u hcrouUei' adverted to, stream is nlsn rxtiaordiiiiMV. At it.s disdiarjic, nltomj)t.s linvr- \)i.'cn iiiMtlf to find its hottom, with liv«< liiiiidrcd ({itlioins of lint, hut Nvitlioiit rl'li-ct ; ahoiit two miles liiLdicr up, it lias lit'Oii rcpt'at- edly somidrd iVoiii (Mic hiiiuliod and lliirty to oim' limuhcd and Ibrtv fathoms ; andfioni sixty to seventy miles from llie Jit, Law- l«Mice, its dt'plh is found from fifty to sixty fatlioms The course of the riv(M*, notwithstanding its magnitndo, is very sinuous, ow- iii<.i to inany projecting points from each shore. The tide runs about 70 miles up il, and upon account of the obstructions occa- ^iolled by tlie numerons promontories, the ebb is much later than in liic !^l. l.aw](Mue; in consequence of which, at low water in the latter, the lorce of the desceiuling stream of the Saguenay is felt for several miles .lust within the mouth of ihe river, oppo- fsite to I'ointe aux Allonettes, is the harbor of Tadoussae, which is very weil sheltered by the surrounding high lands, and ha.'» good anchorage for a great number of '.esscls, of a large size, -wheraid attention to, it has been observed that crain ripens sooner than it does in the vicinity of Qut bee, allhough the situa- tion [of the Ibrmer place] is much furllu r to tlu^ northward. Another of the many anomalies .hat distinguish the climate of Canada." lBu7ich.'tte''s Canada, page 56o-b66. * III the progress of population along the bolder of the Cana- dian lakes, an open water route from New- York to the eastern angle of lake Huron, will no doubt be Ibrnied, and will more se« IX. (liC hlilc jal (o llinvf lint, |po;U- aiid '•-nw- p, ow- I'lins locca- tiiaii (my is Pp'po- LET. I X.J IIIVF/R AT. CLAIH. UJ» From (he cxliTiiiKv uf Lake HiirtMi (o (he .soulhwnnl. (he coiirsf (»r llic wa(oi'» arc (MuHraclcd iii(o a rivrr (caMfd h(. Clair'-.) (hat How hcl»ci'U iiioih'ralci^ hi.i;h banks, aclorrnd |jy many natural hranlies r«." atlis(ani'o or«>i\(y inih's,* near- ly due sou(h, when it apiin cxjiandH in(o ihe small lake Si. Clair, almost uireiilar in form, iin diameter al)ou( .)() mile'., anduhonl !>U in eireui(, (oo dimiiuitive, \\hen eompared vilh the [»reecdin;x ones, (and not hein^ otherwise remarkahle) to demand a further deseription. Out oi' Ihin lake the wa- ters a^ain assume the tbrui of a river, (eailed ileiroii) eon- tinning the same southerly course i*or liU milesj iiiio I^ake Kric 5 its sti'cum is divided into two channels from hpuee tu riously aflect the course of coinuieioe in tlint (piarter, than any improvement within luiman po\v<'r, after tluit olilif (iiaiid Ca- nal in the stsite of New- York. From tlic post of iMichilimnkinne io York iti Canada, by k'lkes Huron, lOrie, and Nisitrara river, is 650 n)iles, whilst it is only 350 miles between tlio.se two points by lake Huron and llie intended canal l)y laxe Siniene. How fai the inlervcninjr country between lakes Ontario and fiinon, is fa- vorable to the formation of a canal, I am uninlbrmed, but am iu- cHued to believe that there does not exist any very ieri<»us im- fjediment to such an enterpri/.e. Kvery thing else (Mpial, the in- labitanls on the north side of the Canadian sea have jiL'ainst them a dilliculty suHicient to ])revcnt a succcssl'ul c(iiip«lition with their more southern ri\als; tliat is the climatc^ 'Ihis is a circumstance ntVecting the comparative advance of the two conn- tries wliicli must remain uMchanged for ever, n)au{(ie all bnuian etlbrts. If an equal share of active enterprize in the great body of the people, and e(iual ])rotection to person and proj)erty in their government distinguishes the contiguous states of the Uni- ted States, as the Britisii Canadian Provinces, the |)rogiess of tht; former m ist be more rapid than the hitler. Tlic itsonrcrs of both are, however, immense, and demand for de\elopcinewt only the energetic applicaiion of their incicasing means. * The distance is here over-rated considerably. From actunl survey, it is less than forty miles iVom the holtoni of lake Huron into lake St. Clair. This subject will be more particularly no- ticed in the sequel of this treatise. t This distance is also slated too Inrge, as will j;e seen hy re- feren'ce to that part of this conc.'^pondcnce relating to Detroit and its environs. «!, M '»ii i/i'i !. , < '•• '.'1 ^00 LAK£ ERIE. [let. IX* XBT. space, by islands of various sizes, the largest being about ten miles long. On (he cast srdc of this river llie prospect is diversified and agreeable, disp!a;^ing sonic of (he beauties of an exub'irant soil, aided b^' a very respectable state of cullivation, and enlivened by the cheerful appearance of set- tlements and villages, gradually rising into consequence by the industry of an increasing population. The Detroit opens into the south-west end of lake Erie. This lake ex- tends from south-west to npviii-east t>vo hundred and thirty one miles, in its broadest partis 63 1-3, antl in circumference 658. A'^ear the Detroit it is adorned by many pleasing and picturesque islands, whilst its shores on both sides, have ma- ny indications of settlement and cultivation. Gales of wind frequently occur, and brinp* with them a heavy swell, with every characteristic of a gale of wind at sea ; but there arc. iiiany good harbors, particularly on the nortlieru side,* thatt * Here llie partiality of tlie Canadian appears. Lake Erie is. unfortunately (leficienl in good harbors on both shores, but if no other circumstance exccj)t the confluent rivers existed, that alone vould give a decided preference to the southern shore. It is a singular fact that the Ouse or Gra id river is the only stream of any consequence which enters lake Erie from the Canada shore; whilst on the opposite side enter the Cataraugus, Ashtabula, Cayahoga, Black river, Vermillion, Huron of the state of Ohio, Sandusky, Mauniee, Raisin, and the southern Huron of the Mi- chigan Territory; aiid besides these, many of which aflbrd good :;holter for vessels, are the harbors of Dunkirk and Erie, into which no rivers are disenihocued. Put-in-bay, in the southern t3ass island, is an excclleut harbor; perhaps, except ] 'troit riv- er itself, the best in lake Erie. As the author visited most of these bays and rivers, particular descriptions will be found in the course o.' :!iis treatise, to which the reader is referred. The Ouse or Grand river rises in Upper Canada, about fifty miles north-west of the westein extreuiity of lake Ontario, and following a south-south-east course of about 8" miles falls into lake Erie 35 miles west effort Erie; it has a bar at the mouth like all other lake rivers. Interlocking with the Ouse rises the liver Thames, the riviere a la Tranche of the French, or Escan- sipi of the Chippewa Indians. The Thames flows to the south- west, about 15 ujiles from and v< ry nearly parallel to lake Erie, and finally falls into lake St, Clair about 4o miles east from i\m LET. IX.] KIAGAUA JtlV£It. 101 afTord protection to ^lic numerous vessels that navigate it. Its greatest depth of water U between 1-0 and 45 fathoms,'"' its bottom generally rocky, which renders the anchorage precarious, particularly in blowing Aveather. From the north-east end of lake Erie, the communication to lake Ontario is by the Niagara river, 36 miles in length, and va- rying from half a mile to a leag in breadth, its course nearly norths The stream in some places is divided into two channels by islands, the largest of which is seven miles in length. The current is impetuous, and being broken in ma-^ iiy places by the uneven rocky bottom, is very much agitated. The banks on each side of the river are almost perpendicular, and considerably more than one hundred yards high.f On the western side the road passes along its summit, and de- lights the traveller with many interesting views both of the river and the country, which is thickly inhabited, and under excellent culture. Here also his mind will be lost in wonder at viewing the stupendous Falls of Niagara, unquestionably one of the most extraordinary spectacles In nature, that pre- sents to the imagination as powerful a contbination of sub- limity and grandeur, magnificence and terror, as it can well experience. Any description, however animated, whether pourtrayed by the glowing pencil of art, guided by the live- liest fancy, or flowing from the most eloquent pen that em- bellishes the page of narrative, would, most probably^ town of Detroit. Several indenlings of the north shore of lake Erie produce harbors, one of which, the North Foreland, has j^reat resemblance to ihe bay of Erie, though upon a larger scale ; some others, like Dunkirk, are open semi-elliptical bays, with no great depth of water. Maiden, or Amherstburg, is incompara- bly the best harbor in Canada, in or contiguous to lake Erie. * Medium depth ab«ut 20 fathoms. t This is fact only between the falls and Queenstown. Many places above the falls the banks are nearly on .i level with, and iu others, rising but little above tire surface of the river. Belovr Queenstown, the banks gradually decline, until near lake Onta;^ tioj they are subject to occasional inundjition. :"?) i.V' 102 NI.vriAllA RIVER. [let. IX. fall short ol' doing adequate jiisdcc to the rcalKyv The at- leinpt, liowcvcr, has been so frequently made, and in some low instances with loleiuble suecess, as to convey an idea of its iinmensilv, lliat, " a description of the Falls of Niagaia" lias become familiar to almost every general reader. Fop this reason, and Jilso because in any new endeavor, I should certainly feel but little confident of either reaching the mer- it of the subject, or contributing to the stock of knowledge already obtained thereon. I will excuse myself from re- peating what has been so often related before, and proceed ill describing, with my best means, the general outlines of this majestic river. ~ *» Five miles from the great Falls is another, and scarcely less tremendous natural curiosity, called the whirlpool ; it i» occasioned by the stream as it passes from the cataract sweeping with impetuous violence round a natural basin en- closed between some rocky promontories, wherein U forms a vortex, that ensures inevitable destruction to whatever comes within its attraction. By tlius diverging from its forward direction, and being as it were embayed for a time, the velocity of the current is checked, and subdued to a more tranquil course towards Lake Ontario. Four miles from hence is Queenstown, a neat, well buiii place, deserving of notice, as being the depot for all merchandize and stores? brought from Montreal and Quebec, for the use of the upper province ; but not less so for the romantic beauty and local grandeur of its situation. For seven miles further on, to the town of Newark or Niagara, the river forms an excellent eapacious harbor for vessels of any size, exceedingly well sheltered by high and bold banks on each side, with good anchorage in every part. The river of Niagara communi- cates with the west end of Lake Ontario, rendered memora- ble by events recently passed, and most probably destined to become the scene of contests, liat will be pregnant with momentous import to North America in future ages. In length it is 171 miles, at its greatest breadth 59 1-2, and 407 IX. |c at- pome lea of fcai*a'- For [loiild Imer- iJecJgc )eec(l les of ircely LET. IX.] l^AKK ONTARIO. lOS in cirt'umfcrcncc. The depth of water varies very ini:ch» but is seldom less than three, oi* more than 50 fathoms, ex- cept in the middle, where attempts have been made with 300 fathoms without striking soundings.^ Its position is nearly cast and west. The appearance of the shores exhibits great diversity ; towards the north-east part they are low, with ma- ny marshy places ; to the north and north-west they assume a lofty character, but subside again to very moderate height on the south. I Bordering the lake the country is every where covered with woods, through whose numerous open- ings frequent patches of settlements are seen that give it a pleasing eftect, which is greally heightened by the white cliffs of Toronto, and the remarkable high land over Presquc Isle, called the Devil's Nose, on the north ; the view on the south is well relieved with a back ground pro- duced by the ridge of hills, that, after forming the precipice for the cataract, stretches away to the eastward j the fmisli- ing object of the prospect in this direction is a conical emi- nence towering above the chain of heights, called Fifty Mile lliil, as denoting its distance from the town of Niagara. Of the many rivers flowing into Lake Ontario, if the Genesee v!^:m * When on lake Ontario, I was informed by sundry captains of vessels, that, after leaving the shores a short distance, the soundings varied from 75 to 89 fathoms; seldom so low as 70 or so high as 90 ; wliicli would give a medium depth of 82 fathoms. From evcrv information I have received, the bottom of the lakes vary considerably, having hills, dales, and slopes, similar to dry land ; but with less abruptness in the ascents and descents. Com- pared with the sinface Ontario is the deepest of all the Canadian lakes, and like Erie receives its principal rivers from the south shore. t This is only correct as respects tlie immediate shores ; alon^ the south side of lake Ontario runs a narrow strip of land, occa- sionally rising into banks of 30 or 40 feet high, and often low, and sometimes marshy ; but four, five or six miles from the shore the country rises into high hills, with often a very broken and even mountainous aspect. The country near Sacket's Harbor is flat, but resting upon a bed of limestone, with hills of con.sidera- hle elevatioji iu the rear. ' >v:va 1L0j> NIAGARA niVEK; t LET. IX, l'i4' iind Oswego rivers be excepted, tlipre are none that lay elainri to paHieiilar notice, unless it be for the peculiarity of ail *)f (hem having a santly bur across (he entrance. There are some fine bays anil inlets, wherein vessels of every description may find pro(ection against bad weatlier. Burlington bay is both spacious and secure ; I)ut these advantages arc ren- dered of Ii((Ie iu)por(ance by its narro>V entrance being so shallow as to admit nothing larger than boats. Hungry })ay, on the contrarj', is conspicuous, as affording good an- cliorage, and safe shelter aiuong the islands to siiips of (he largest size at all seasons. York and Kingston harbors, be- longing to the EnglisI and Sacket*s Harbor to the Ameri- cans, arc unquestionably tiic best upon tiic lake, as they pos- sess every natural requisite ; the two latter are strongly fortified, being the Arsenals tvhere ships of war, even of tiie first rate, haVe been constructed by both powers, and fi'om whence have been fitted out those powerful hostile squadrons that have conferred so much consequence upon the naval op- erations in this quarter.* Very heavy squalls of wind fre- fjjiilently occurj but they are unattended with either difficulty or danger^ if met by the usual precautions every sCaman is acquainted with» << Of the many isiandsat the cast end of Ontario, the Grand Isle, lying abreast of Kingston, is the most extensive, and by lieing placed at the commencement of the Cataraqui riv- er, forms two channels leading into it, that bear the name of the North or Kingston Channel, and the South or * Except the barracks noticed page 72 of this treatise, there exists no defensive or offensive military works at Sacket's Harbor. The temporary lines of defence, erected during the war, are now neglected or removed. It is a position witJi great natural advantages which might be made, if necessary, very strong. It is also a post of tlie utmost importance to the U. S. If I was called upon to point out which place, in my opinion, on all the Canadian border, concentrated the most eligible site for a^ naval and military depot, I would unhesitatingly give the mouth •f Black river the preference. I l^fiTi IX ] RIVEK ST. LAWUiiNti, 105 Carlcion Isiland (JliaiiiU'I. Ca(ara(]iii, iVont i(s riitratlce to the place called I'ciit D-oliMlt, a!)oui .)*J luiL's, is ahuusC lUU'd wUli one condniiet) iluatci' of sinutl ibiaixU. bu nituu i'(>ut> an to have occuisiunei! the guticrul dcuuauualiou oiTtAiHo^lalcb.''^ • Thousand islands. There is great vagiicnoss in the above •desciiptioii which leuves llie comuiLiiccni -iil oCiJie Calnruqui un- defined. Indeed it is very rliiiicniU U) irmk wiili ])ieeision tlie leiiniiiation ol" lake OtUuiio, or the eeiiimeiicerjeiii ol" the Cata- raqui or i>t. Lawrence ri\er. Colore reiichijig Ciiaiid hlc, a niiin- her of smaller islands ciieqiier the Unir.dj <>{' the lak(^ between Sfjcket*s Harbor and the eastern extreniiy of the Peninsula of Prince Edward. The lake jjiadiiaiiy coniiacls a|>[)roa(;hi!!L' tiiu >vest end of Cirand i5le, wliero it io iibotil ten uiiles wide; tiuee liii'.es further to tlie norlh-east, from Ki.'igslou to Cape Yn.ceitl, The distance is ei^lit miles in a direct line. l5t;!ow Kingston, the river, or m guished by very different characters. Grand island, Carlton island and Well's island with sor;e others in their vicinity, ri^e lifty or sixty feet above the level of the water with sloping banksj nnd a productive soil covered with limber of vnriotis kinds, of which pine, elm, maple and linden are the principal speciesi The banks of the main shore aie flat or rise very gradually with a base of secondary or floetz rock. The region known by the flistinctive appellation of the Thousand islands is granitic. The islands are mostly small, and many of them naked rock ; pine is tlie prevalent timber. Tiie banks of tlie main shore often pre- cipitous. A chain of primitive mountains leaves the elevated country Bouth-west of lake George, and proceeding to the north-west through the state of New- York, between the waters of the Oswe- gatchte and Black livers, cross the St. Lawrence between King- ston and Brockvilie, and continuing into Canada, divides the wa- ters that flow north-east into the (Jtlawa, from those which fiow south-west into lakes Huron and Ontario. The pa.ssage of the bt. Lawrence over this chain, forms the Thousand islands* Every step I have taken on this stream presents phenomena to demonstrate ihat this ridge was once unbroken, and that in it, somewhere existed a cjitaract, above which the waters of lake Ontario were elevated greatly above their jnesent level. The dis- ruption, or gradual wear of this mass of rocks, let loose the im- prisoned fluid, inundated the country beJo\Yj and (hen, perhaps, ««uimcnced the cataiact of Niagarcu. ' X % I, •] » ^f iO« lilVHR HT. XlWUEStE. [let. IX. #1 ■';■'■'■ l'■:^ i 1 i.,i' .1 ■ '■ i- TIse ilislanec luhvocrj Kin;;s(on and Montreal is about i90 miles; i!ie ba'.j'.vs ol'tlio river disjilay a seine that cannot iai! to exelto urprize, ^hen the vears that have claisscd Tnlow the TiioiLsniu! islands, comnicnrcs a secondary region coiisistitifi ill ^ici\\ \)i\rt officliistosc saiidstoiie, njmii which oltcii rests an Jillu\iiil d^'juisit. In this nianner is lornied tlie unequal- JovUuiinliv htl«»« IJmckvillf, ns Inr as I have visited the river !St. Lawrence* Though not bcaiinjj tiic iiaiTir, the islands helwoen ]\loriisto\vn aiul I'lockville aie fonned fVom similar materials with thv" Tlioiisand i.sljinds. Ahoul midway, Jjetween and a little jui'-w iht.ye two towns, occur the Inst of tliese granitic islands, and v.liat is very .;ingu!iH-, tiie !»anks of both shores are formed oftioct/or schist<'sc lock. Innnediately below Krockvilie, the (Canada shore is liirmcd by a high and perpendicular ledge of the liitlcr formation, and about four miles above Morristown, tlie Miarjiinof the iivcr is a ledge of (ijie while oand stone in hori- i'.oiita! strata. Eelow this j)lace, the liver is without islands fiCleeu or sixteen miles, is Ircm a mile to one and hall' mile wide, villi fliores rising liv a gcjitle e.cclivity from the water, and where (cultivated, ii:ex|)ictit.ibly beautiful. The soil exuberantly rich. aid covered wilii a growth of '.imber, indicative of extraordinary fertility, such as white birch, red maple, sugar tree, elm, linden, I'.cuilock, and while ])ine. Four miles beiosv Oirdensburgh, another group of islands com- rience, but vith a physiognomy totally diP.hreiit from any of the ]Mt ced iig. This giouj) is near thirty in number, of difterent sizes from oi'.e and a iuilf fnile to twenty yards in length, almost all of :in elliptical foini, and lising from the water by a globular swelL Such of those islands which l.avt> formerly been cleared of lim- Ikt. and wiiich are now again overgiown by a neA' generation of trees, are incomparably the most delightful spots I have eiihei" w:en t)r wliose existence 1 could conceive. The limpid water that surroiuuls them, clumjjs of trees without underbrush, and ill sinmner an air attempei'cd to the most delicious softness. A few d:i\s past, our a}.'ent col Samuel Hawkins, gave a. fete chninpeirc upon one of them, to the meml^ers of the conitnissmns on both lilies ; the djiy wm, even on the St. Lawrence, uncom- monly liiK^ and aniid tli(> gloves of aspen, wild cherry, and liitdcn trees, the Kene seemed more than earthly. Mrs. Hav^kins j)reside<', and in the bowers of St. Lawrence, recalled the most jioiisliei! mnnntis of ci\i!i.'.ed cultivated society in the crowded city. At ili(j c'ase of evening, major Joj;«'ph DelafieM and my- leif, walki'd over the i.'land, and in full xi'nv ol the objects which excited our feeiiiigs, concluded that no spot on the globe could msile wiihin so ^anaI! a space, more to please, to amuse and grati- IV the fancw resoi sent lure into plac LET. IX.] KIVUR ST. L VWIlKNCn. lOT since llic (irs( setMcmrrK oClIiIs \)M't ol'ilic coiinfry (in ITS;,) arc coiHidfred. 'i'iicv ojsilu'aco all liic (Mn!K'l!isit!ii''!il4 oi i naiiieroiM pojujlaflon, iVjMiliJy, ami j^ood euldviiiion * \V« !l <;oustructo(I liif^li roads li'a!- (•aJion !)otli ea-^v and fxiK'diduiiH. whiUliiu' nataiMous ioadc I l»al(caiix and rafts in(u'ssan(I_v passiij.u; up a!>d «lo\va i'toui t!i,» hcgiiininf; of spriniij iinhl (ho lattoj* end of autumn, donioji- sti'a(e, unequivocally, a vory ('X(rnsiv<^ cotniniMrial inU'i- coJiJ'so. I'JK! islands, the shoals, the rajiid-i, \\\l\\ <'onfriv;^n- ces for passing thoni, foi'm alfoj^ctljcr a succos-ddM (irnovi!- lios that gives pleasure while it L*ro:s(rs aslojii^hnu'jn." <» IJeforo reaching Montreal, liie la!;es St. Fran'-Is. Sf. Louis, and ties Montagues, present themselves : (!iey do not adntit of comparison with those already noticed, and. ea.» indeed, only be tonsidcred as so many \videninj;s of ilui * The rapid change macL upon an tiuciiltivated country i)v tin; introduction of the necessary aits of civilized lifc^ never diil re- ceive a more Uiking exeniplificatiou, than is now ^dven by th»: left shore «f the St. Lawrence below the Thousand ishuiih, as ffi ' down as Hamilton. Fields joining t(> fields, farni-houses, wil'i Iheir most attractive decoratiun, garden, meadow, and orclian', smile along tiiis truly elej^aut siope. Viliasjes with many of tht* highest traits of cuLivated life, aiul with all the liist principUs <'i civilization, rise along this once desolate wasLe. Biockvi!!* , Prescott, and Johnstown, are now what were once New- York an 1 Philadelphia, what were oiice Quebec and Montreal. aJid jangiii j farther back in the lapse of ages, what was once Alliens, Iloun , Paris and London. Many times, when the rising and setting sun spread a glow oi' goldeii lustre over this attractive picture, have [ demanded <>' myself, was this country a glooiny forest scene only live and thirty years past ? The rich lustre of harvest would have answere*', that upon this expanse the labor of ages had been expended , bii!; history faithfully points to the contrary. In 178.5 the ax Iii>t resounded on the?.e shores ; ami now, 18 18, the world cjxn pre- sent but few, if any regions of equal extent, wliere all that can al- lure the eye, or gratil'y the mind, can be lonnd more condensed into one view. Savage life has disappeare I (i>r ever, and i;i its place now stands the residence of the instrncU'd uimt. m < I .*«. ..i< '\ll^ '.'ij!' \ast expan.se of-lake Superior, or the Caspian sea ; from the rij^pling riii to he overwhelming torrents of the Missis- sippi aii'l St. L.'iWieme All .streams are, in fact, composed of chains whose links are themselves alternately lakes and cataracts, the cause of the existence ol' the former, is a greater approach to ihe curve of the real sphere ; the latter is produced by an in- clination of more or less obliquity to that curve superficies. t Compared with any other stieam of the globe, the St. Law- rei.ce, when fiee fioni ice, certainly affords the best ship naviga- tion. No other river <:u) be ascended so far wi(h equal vessels, and with so li'.lle impediment. The only streams that can com- pete with tiiC St. Lawrence, are the Oronoquc and Rio ie la XET. IX.] Riven ST, LAWURXCE. 109 posiMon* formrj two otiirp clianncls of a HiodcrnfR b5'ra Plnte, both in South America. The Am.i7,on anH IVIississipni ran neither present so much facility for internal comnirrce, as far as the ingress of large ships is concerned. On tlie eastern contin- ent, the Elbe, Garonne, Wolga, and (ianffos, are the rivers that admit the highest descer' of ships, neither of wlucli are equal in that respect, to the Huflson or the Delaware. The beauty of the St. Lawrence islands has been noticed ; that of Montreal has the preference of greater extent than any ctlier with equal elegance of natural physiognomy. The scenn v around this city is on a va§t scale, heing hoinided by monntains? more than eighty miles distant, uniting in itself, a most attrattivw locnif with a position equally favorable for external and internal coiumerco^ it now contains 25,000 people. 13 r^r. no Kni:K ST. i.A>YUi:Nrfc. [I.KT. IX. LBT. ■ It • IV . >■'■ I 1 j\'n*'(', is Zb l.illcA li.n;^; uisd i> hi oad ; like >l ol' (he olhn-s, (hiu lias a j;ionp oI" iriliinds (oveiinj; ahoiit V miles of (he wedUTii |)ar( ; Iteiweeii (hem (wo dihliiicl ehanneb ai'e roriiicii, (he one (o ilie t»'»n(h hi'inj; (lie (lee|M>i niitl eleaiest is eonse(jnei;(l^ (he l;es( lor hh\\'t, 'J he ImoUs on eaeh ^i^le are vir.y low, >vi(li tliojis htrcichin;;' tiOin (hem to a eon»i«Ii-t'ahle (]is(anee, hu i!ja{ univ a narrow j)ah»<.t|;'e, whoije i^enerul (!ep(h is from iti 10 j» {ie(, IS l> {'( niiohsii iie(e(]. Ahou( i.'^ niiles IVoiii A> iliiam Henry ()ii(he nor(ii sldr, u( (he n:ou(h ofdie riur S(.IMuiii-iee, ^landh (he (ov>n ol' 'J'hree iiivers, the (hiid in rank vidiiii ihe j)ro>iiiee. A( iUh [ilaee (lie (ide tea6e» en(iicl^>,* und^ * (.)»• ill other words, (fie (own of Three Rivers, !s(ands a( (lie 1ir;ul ol" tide water in (lie Si. Kawiir.ce. h it is UlO miles iVoin (^iiehiH- to Moiiirrr.l, and .0 ('10111 lh(; latter to Throi* Rivers, than i1m (i '< s Iiou t.' miles above (^uchte, or nearly 400 miles i'roni llu' L'tdi'oC St 1 awreiice, and an iinecjualled distanee into the ji.'liiioi of this 01 any other part vi' the eaith. Like as in the J Itidsoii, the tules in the St. Lawrence, jyass tliioufi;h a chain of pri- jiiitivomouiuaiiis, upon llie 1 uins of v. hieh stands Qiul)ec. As 3 have ht lore ob.rnis (he Thoiisand Islands, 1 repeat resjiecliug that A liieli tra\c..-\s the ^.ame iiver nrar Quebec, (hat it v. as once 4 OMiimiotif; and eoufnu'd the waters al'ove it, ibrming a lake, vhith niiisi l.ave been diaimd by some oi' those operations of na- Inie. whiel. iiijjiose la.''tii'g changes iij>on our globe. '• \\ I. en ihis oj>eniiig was made by the (bice of the included vat(^r, the hin;' ^^as laid hj'.ie on loth fides of lliat )i\er (St. T.awuMice,) as far as St. lUjiis, inchidiiig (lit islands of IMontreal jiiid Jisiis; and by the same ejiera ion, thelai;don both sides of lake Cliamplaiii wuidd l-.e drained as far as 'fieonderoga ami \V'!!iuhari.'' — ])v. S. L. ^)IitchiU't> A ties un Ciivici-'b Thtvri,if ilw Efi/tli, ])a;^e .19 1, 'J his antimi lake was not hounded l>y St. Regis; at tliat ^illfige tliere exists iio hnidof any coiisideralle elevation above the lixel 4.f tile v;iier in the ii\ei' that could .'■et l.ouiuls to liie inchuied lake. 1 have already oLm r\(;d that no cnirent t)f any consequence exists in the Si. Lav.iciice, ficm lake Lrie to tl.c lt\^ei• exlrcn.itv of the per, lime pro( ahovi If mg leav a re; far r in t vo! a.c: iii LET. IX.] niVEU ST. LAWHK.NCK. Ill iiulroil, h not miK'Ii CvU at srvcral iiiilci Ik low i( : ft om Iicnoo (hero is seaifc nii^ vuiiiilion in iho ^lural n!*|:n t ui* llu; S<. liUWiTricc, uiiiil airivini; »( ilic IJiohilldi raj.-i.: (ulioiit 5:Z luiKs,) where ils Ijed iii so iituc.'i eoiiirucdd or ohsduef- Thoiisnnd islnnds; conioqiiently iho present <'r|)n\<;.sioii of ihc river eomineiices at tliHl plju»;. 'Iho full in !St. Lhwhik v, \i I'lvm tJic hi'giiiniiii,' of its ciinciif, to li'lc water ^31 fit i, (^st < my letter to ('harlc'S (i. Hain»'S, Kskj.) tliertfoie if aii^ impiMlii-.u'iit of tJiat h('i!,^ht was now raised at Qiu.'hic, tho accunndatr*! wait is would a{>aiii assiune a level to llie west oihI of Inko Ontario. It i{ probable that tiio outer or Qiu-JH-e barrier, yielded l>< Curo liio ii;;- j»er, or that of the Thoiisajhl islamis^ and that a eularmt ol" vejy roiisidcrable elevation, existed lor a great lehi^fth of lime iieiu- where IJrockville now stands. The water*!, by tliei»- abiasj)!', linally cut the iinier gianilic chain, ami a depression in ti.e (U pi i and great contraction in the extent of lake Ontario was llic ehi.et. It appears from the plienomena exhibited by ntost rivers, tint schistose secojidary yields more slowly to llieju tion of v^aU-r, tiaii do primitive rocks, thongh the latter, are in liitt, harder in llieir texture", tinui liie former. A stream glides smoothly o\er a I)» d of horizontal slate, without prt) Inciitu' much eilect: priuiiiivo rocks l)y their fractureil surtiice, oppose points (>f contaet to t'u; falling lluid which imperceptibly le;us away the broken fiaj,- ment.sof rock, and finally gains a smooth uiiiiiterrn|)trd eliaiiiie'. All the rapids ill t!ic St. Lawrence rnsli over smooth be(!s of ih/et/, limestone, or sandstone, which have prevented the stream (Voni producing a greater eilect upon the incumbcj.t p: ntive sUala above, towards lake Ontario. If a similar eilect had been produced i;i th] as we have alieady seen, the diderence of level between the surfjce* of lake Ontario, and titlj water is 231 ; of coinse the bottom of lake Ontaii > is generall/ below tide water 26\ feet. It i.i now evident that if the interven- ing barrier was broken, tho lake would agaisi depress j3 i feet and, leave immense spaces dry land which are yet sn!>merged ; tliougii a residue would remain which would still huve a ileplh ef 2i5> feel, iiir Greater than is now the case in lake trie. The breadth, strength, auvl texture of the composing materials in the St. Lawrence, however, renders a farther I'epression of iis volume the work of unlimited ages, and compared with ll.o epocha in human history, the present order of things in that ;!i it ; n( i\\v end ul'the rapid. thtMe is a good an- ('hon{;r. wbck'c vrRsclH can wait (heir eonveiiient opi)or(uni- lv. Vuuu Mon(real. (huH Car, (he banks are of a vcr^ mo- dera(e eleva(ioii, and iinifonitly level, but hereabout (hey ai'<- much higher, and grathial)^ increase in (heir approach 10 ^licbre. nndl ihev a((ain (he heiglit of Ca[)c Diamond* upon Mhicli ihe eiiy is hiiil(. At this capital of th« pro- vince and seat of goveviiiiien(, (h<'re in a most excellent purl and a capacious buHin, wherein the j^ieatcxt depth of water is ^S rathoioH, with a (idc rising IVoni 17 to 18, and a( the f>prin,:;;s. from Zi Ui'2\ re<>(. From whence, and from I'oint Levi on (lie MOuth shore, one of the most striking paisorantio •>iew>^, perhaps, in (lie whole world, oflTors i(scU' (o notice ;. the HHSCTnblage of of)j'>eis is so grand, and (hough na(urally« ret appear ho artitieiallv eonlras(ed wi(h each odier. (hat ihcy mingle surprize with (he j^ra(ifieationof ever}' beholder. Tiic capital u|'on the summit of the cape, the river S(. Iow ihr> <>i(y in llic iiile of Di'leaim, pitieed in (he n)i exinniei} wril Hctd.d. and th'> huids in sncii a hi;;h s(ate of improvement, that u Iarju;e traet in (ho vieini',y of Hivieru dii Sud, in (iimiliarly eiiiled (he granar.) of (lie piovinee. ]}e.yond (he island ol* OHeans are si'veral <;(hers, as (joosj^ inhuid. Cfane island, and anv Kmall' i ones : thcMe (wo iiic tolrrahly well cultivated, bat the rest are ne^h>c(ed. At Jlivieje du bud, the ^reat river is increased to elevt n mile*! in wierior to it. Beyond Rivier« du Sod, is a channel named the Traverse, which deserves mention from (he circumstance of (he river being here thir- teen miles across; yet (he Isli; nux Coiidres, the shoal of 8(. Roche, and nno(her called the English Bank, in(frrupt the fair way so much, that this passage, which is the usual one the pilots choose, jh not more than from 1700 to 1800 yards be(ween (he two buoys that mark (he edge iK ihc Hlioals ; it is the most intricate part of (he river below ^ne- f)ee, the currents are numerous, iri-egular and very strong, nn which large ships must consult (he proper (ime of (ho tide (o pass i( wi(hout accident. On (he north shore between the Isle aux Coudres, and the main there is another channel, but (he current is so rapid, (he depth of water so great, and the hoUljng ground so bad in ea!>e of being obliged (n anchor within it. that pilo(s always give the preference to running ■'- '.Vi^'^i- Hi KIVEU ST. XAV.'SBNCB. [let. It. Lax. * 7" ■* :1 .i-T ..R: tlirouj^lt tlic Travoi'se. A^ot n thus far, but hereabjuts, (hey may be consiuer- ed to (I'rmini.t?, as to llie eastward of capo Chat, the pro- hz^'. IX.] BIVEB ST. lAAVRENtE 115 gress of industry is no lonj^er visible j on (he noHh side, (Iio vullivated landni extend only to Mallbay. In the river itself notUlnv^, ((iU't'ier) chtinis our attention, cxeept the separation of its shores to the dlstanee already mentianed, from cape Hosier to the P.lingnn settlement. »• I uiust s'ill trepuss upon the patience of my readers long enoui^h to mention, that the observations hither made, apply onl\ to one part of the yoar^ and also, to notice, that from the hc^hvunf^ of December, until the niiddii? of April, the "water ( cmniunication is totally suspended by the frost. During; this period, the river from Quebec to Kingston, and bc'twffMi the great lukes, except the Niagara and the rapids^ is wholly irozet) q|j^er> The lakes themselves, are never en- lir»rly covered With ice, but it usually shuts up all the bays and ):ihMs, and extends many miles towards their ♦icntres. B«':ow Quelx.c it is not frozen over, but the force of the tides inc'-ssitn'lv detaches the ice from the shores, and such im- mouse uiasses are kept in continual agitation by the iiux and reilux, that navigation is totally impracticable in these months. But though for this length of winter, the land and water are so nearly identified, the utility of the river, if it be diminished, is far from being wholly destroyed, for its sur- face still offers the best route for land carriage, (if the me- taphor can be excused ;) and tracks are soon marked out by which a more expeditious intercourse is maintained by ve- hicles of transport of all descriptions than it would be pos- bible to do on the established roads, at this season so dcejdy covered with snow, and which are available until the ap- proach of spring makes the ice porous, and warm springs occasioning large Aaws, render it unsafe. >Vhen this altera^ tion takes place, it soon breaks up, and by the beginning of May, is either dissolved or carried of by the current.* :,' X ^ ,fi,. * * This can only be correct in common years, as ijistauccs do occur of the ice between Montreal and Qiitbec reuiainiug uiler llie Inst ol" May. The ice in tlie" Hudson river breaiss up ahNayti {iooAicr ll.uu in iLc lower part ol' St. La'Aicncc, and even in Iht f> . '.- 116 KxVRR ST. lAWREXCIL. [let. IX. ■.''■■ '•^'•S^-'^l lyvMi i-0\ ''^ «< Tlic cfnir of Si. Lawrence, that receives the waters of this giganiKi rivor, is formed between the western part of Newfoundland, the eastern nhores of liabrador, the eastern eKtremity of the province of New Brunswick, part of the province of Nova Scotia, and the island of Cape Breton. It communicates with the Atlantic ocean hy three difTcrent passa}j;es, viz : on the north hy the straits of Belleisle hctween Labrador and Newfoundland ; on the south-east hy the pas- sage from cape Ray ; the south-west extremity of the lat- ter island, and the north cape of Breton Island ; and lastly by the narrow channel named tlie p;ul of Canso, that divides rape Breton from Nova Scotia. The distance from cape Breton to cape Ray is 79 leagues, and from Nova Scotia to J/abrador one hundred and six." [Bouchelte''s Canada, page 32 — 55. It has already been observed that the St. Lawrence was rather a strait than a river ; below Quebec it assumes more the character of a hay, than either that of a strait or river. In such rivers as the St. Lawrence. Hudson, Delaware, Sus- quehanna, Bio de la Plate, and Elbe, it is very diflieult IQ determine where the river ceases, and the bay commences. Kxcept width, no essential change in the ordinary features of the stream of the St. L-awrence takes place below Que- bec. It is perfectly similar at the Island of Orleans, and opposite Cape Rosier. Amonji;''t the most interesting problems suggested by a re- view of this mighty river, is the comparative quantity of Avater contained in its volume or discharged at its mouth. No river of tiiis ghibe can diifer so much in the mass of contained fluid and its expenditure as the St. Lawrence. I have already given a table of the area of this river and its r-'"': • former, tbc ire not iinfrequeiitly continues firui lale in April, as vas the case in 1818, llie present year. The occurrence of rain has the crealcst agoucy in producing the removal of ice in spring, in any river siilyect to be frozen in winter. X.ET. IX.] RIVER ST. LAWRE3FCE. 117 lakes, expressed in square miles ; and liavc also observed Oiat the depth of the lakes was very unequal, and difficult to reduce to a medium. AVilhout pretending to a very strict aeeumey, I will ende.ivor to estimate the quantity of water contained in the St. liawrencc and its lakes, assuming my former superficies as data for the surface, and estimating the depth from the best information in my reach. It ap> pears from the united information of all those Mho have made tlie necessary experiments, that lakes Superior and Huron are vast, and in some places unfathomable gulfs ; that of ail the great lakes that of Erie is the most shallow, not exceeding an aver;;ge of more than 20 fathoms ; and that Ontario varies from 75 to 89 fathoms, with a medium depth of 8-2 fathoms. The St. Lawrence itself varies very much in depth, and exhibits phenomena that shew its bottom to be excessively uneven. In order to be within the limits of re- uiity, I have assumed a medium depth of 20 fuct, for all the surface contained in the last item of my estimate, of 1,500 square miles for the superficial area of St. Lawrence river und the smaller lakes : I have also assumed for lakes Supe- rior, Huron and Michigan 150 fa'hums or 000 feet, and upou these data have constructed the following : TABLE OP THE QUANTITY OP WATER CONTAINED IN THE ST. LAWRENCE, AXI* ALL ITS CONTUIBUTARY LAKES AND RIVERA. >^p-i Lake Superior, Huron, - - Michigan, - Erie, - - - Ontario, - - St. Lawrence," .& other riv- ers^, smaller lakes. Modimn Depth. 900 ft. 900 ft. 900 ft. 120 ft. 492 ft. Supnficial Area in feet. 8 3 6,3;) 2, 000,000 557,5 68,000,000 376,898,400,000 418,176,000,000 200,724,480,000 4 1, 1 7 C, 000,000 Sol! I Contents in feet. 752,716,800,000,000 501,811,200,000,000 339,208,560,000,000 50,181,120,000,000 98,756,444,160,000 83,520,000,000 2,430,894,880,000.1,742,757,644,160,000 11^ RlVEU ST. lAWllKNCE. [let. IX. LET. Pit.',' ,1 : IV ; Ky- ■J^ i.; ..: isB '1 ■ iV'',,- r" ll^^l '■■. 1 . ■ • 1*1' 'PHI i^i yl,f Increillljlc as it will appear (o yoin'Sfll* and most ot.'iei* pei'suus, it is ncvertlieless a i'aet (hat lliis crioriuoits mass oT IVesh water U here uuderratcd, and yvl aiitoiintu fo rnoie llian one lialt'ot' all the iVesli waJci- on (his planet. Thi-i unequalled source oi* wateis you will perceive, pro5)el!i down the yt, Lawrence a s(reani that flov^s with nearly eqnahli-* qnr.nlify throughout the year. Amongst the nriany trai esents a similar aspect willt the opposing bank. The progress of improvement on li.e side of New-York, has been no doubt relai*d are, Hudson, and some of the rivers of New Enj4;land, alluvial bottoms ai*e found, compo- sed of the dehriSf carried down by the overllowinj^ of the streauis from towards their sources, and deposited in the form of rich ilals. I'his latter kind of soil exists on the Polomac, near Washinj^ton City ; on the shores of the Sus- quelianna, near Ilarrisburg ; on the Delaware river, above IMiihidelphia to Trenton ; above and below Albany on Hud- son ; in Connecticut, on the banks ot Housatonick, >Val- lin.^ford, and n:ore particularly Connecticut river. Viewing St. liuwrence, 1 have frequently endeavored to imagine a river, with whose scenery }ou were acquainted, and to which this river bore a strong analogy ; but I knew none j)ossessing those strong resemblances, where preeonceiTcd images could give an accurate conception of unseen objects, 'i lie e;i!st bunk of Hudson below the Highlands, and both ba!iksof that river from New burg to Ked-Hook ; the banks of the Mohawk below the Little Falls, and these of Con- ncclicut river, near Aliddletown, afford landscapes whose feat uses have mnny traits of comparison with those of St. Lawrence; but with a tanicness unseen and unknown on that noble stream. It is con:paring an it fant to a man, a pigmy to a ,i;»ant. or a i ill to a torrent, to compare any of the east- ern Hreai:isof the United Slates to the St. Lawrence. I Ijavc alrt ady sicwn, tliat tlie Mississippi and its con.iu- cnts 1 reseat features so difiiicfst, that nothing but contrast H? . f* LBT. X.j Riven ST. LAwRKSrCB. as itan l)c drawn between ihein and llie Hi. Lawfoncp. In pus- hing tVoni one stream (u (lie olbei*, a new world ojU'iis to lliu traveller) tlic face ot* nature changes, the objeetn are of ni'w MpeeieS) almost ol' new {;encrti, and it is diilicuh to eoueeive ourselves upon the snnie planet. Ill nolhin.i^« however, do the two rivers so essentinliv dif- fer us in liicir islands ; those of the Mississijipi, like the banks of that niij^ht^ stream, are Hat, iriitny of them snb- jeet to overflow, none niarshv ; those of the St. liawieneo are mostly elevated, never entirely level unless murshy, and always of an exuberantly rich soil, llolh livers uie che- quered with islamtis, but those islands have characters es- i>ei)tially dilferent ; those of the Mississippi follow the di- rection of that river, and seldom occur in groups ; those o^ the St. Lawrence lie seattercd promiscuously upon tlie face of its cuiTent, and are almost always grouped. Of the islands of St. Lawrence, after those of the Thou- sand islands, (he most remarkable are the (i.illops, and those in their vicinity. You will remember tlmt 1 have re- marked, that the St. Lawrence, from a little below Brock- ville to three or four m:,les below Oj;deHsl)urgh, was entirely Ireo of islands ; then commences a lar^e group, of which that of the ancient Fort Levi is the first in descending, and that of I'resque Isle above point Iioquois the last. I notice particularly these islands, as they are a good representation «f the islands of that river generally. When descending the river in the middle of May, I was particularly impressed with the peculiar features of these islands, and being afterwards employed to survey them and the adjacent shores^ became necessarily intimate with their position. Some miles above Ogdensburgh, even opposite Broek- ville, a slight current is |v?rceptible, which very gradually increases, and at isle Fori. Levi has assumed considerable force. In the space betwt'm Brockville and isle Levi, the river varieii in breadth from uhc to one and a Italf miles : but ■r- ■■■" 4 •K « ; m '■/, '* 12^ niVGR ST. LAWCIENCE. [let. X. n( isle Levi dilates to near two milp» wide. To the north ti.^' :r-: i V, be; arc ot* isle Levi lie a niiaiher of others, whoso names merely locul 1 oiiii', hut whose situation uimI appearance ill the hi;i;hest decree c!e;j;nnt and aj^reeahle. L'pon two of this ^ro(ip, one eoiiiitiisiiiutiers rn('aiii|M'd, and upoii one of »hieh was f;iven the ft'lc. cluiviiu'lie 1 have already notierd. Still lower down, eomnienees the einstee more pai-ticjlai'ly desi{;nated as the CiAIJ.OP ISLANDS. Here the rivei- is divided hv (he [)rineipal inland iiito two channels, in eacii of whieli the enrrent runs vi»h {;ri>at vcloelf^v over hdgrs of sehisto.se limestone. JJflow the f;nind (iailop lie scatter- ed ten ov twelve more islands, hetween whieh, as also along the shore, the stream ilows very irregularly and with great velocity. Still lower down than the Gallops, and three miles distant are two isl.mds, past vhieh the river continues to run vith tiie velofitv of a eataract. The line between the town- ships of Edwardsluir;:; and Matilda, and of consequence be- tween the eoiKiiics of Grenville and Dnnda?, strikes the I'ivcr o|;posite ti>e Gallop islands and rapid. A short dis- tance hi'low Hiis line the river is united again into one vol- ume, which in two places, point Iroquois and the Narrows, is contracted into less than half a n:ile M'ide, with a very deep arui rapid current. OgdenN island, opposite Ilaniiltony a;;:»in di' *d>'s the St. Lawrence into two unequal volumes, the iir.iln stream heinj^ on the Canada shore. From this phice, ihou.!;jh tlie river presents two paits, as the Itapid Plat and Loi)?^ Saut, which are marked as cataracts, yet in reality from II;imilion (o lake St. Francis, the whole distance is a ra;;:d riinninj; w itli threat violence. The Ib^ of latitude is rendered in a pavtieular manner remarkable, by striking the riviT at the head of lake St. Francis; here the stream, vhich, from the head o? the Gallops has run with such pro- diiijious velocity, becomes tranqtiil, and expands into a lake of near ililrty miles in Icngtii by three or four in width, with, in many parts, low, marshy shores. Lake St. Francis con- ^i;;- ' I. ^- lilL i LET. S.] BIVEa ST. LAWTIEVCE. 125 fniels at its lower extrnnily in(o Hie rjipid of tli(> C<'drrs, lic- low wlikii, lltou;;li rlie river occasioaallj flows wiili iiiucli ra|>uli(^, it gradually iosis its eiirrciit in (lu- level of ilic tides. Between Montreal and Ogdenshiirglu tlic navigitfion of tills greit river is lahorious, in some measure preiarioji-*, and, without much skill and eare, dangerous, it is u euiu- plinicnt to the vi^ilanee and ruresi;^lii of (he hoalm n who conduct the various ral'ls and vessels, thai so lew arcidenis occur. A kind of keel hoat, of nearly equal size prow and stern, is the ordinary mode of Iransporiin^ merehandizo froui and (o Montreal as hij>;h as Kin<;sion. These boats are managed wilh great dexteriiy by the Canadians, who )ia:idlc with equal adroitness poles and oars, 'i he rapids arc often so strong as to oblige the boatmen to use a drag line, and it is wonderful (he patience wilh \\hieii tliche men continue their exertions, against the force of (he s(ream. Descending demands little less labor, and more attention than ascending. Taken ai a whole, I cannot conceive of a more pleasing region than that along both shores of the St. Lawrence, and when the United States' shore is as well cultivaled and im- proved as the Canadian, it will be a voyage of real pleasure to pass along its current. The islands were claimed by the St. Regis Indians, who have made a sale of their right to the soil, lo David A. Og> den, Esq. Except Mr. Ogden's own residence near Hamil- ton, and a few settlements made upon the grand Gallop under lease from the Indians, those incomparably beauliful islands are mostly uninhabited. Their settlement would add very greatly to the decoration of the scenery of Ihc country. Human imagination could not form an idea of places, where more elegance of scite and prospect would be coaibined» than on almost aM of these islands. The fine seat of Mr. Ogden^ opposite Hamilton^ is an cxuniple. Clearing away A •if l!2« OEM'. VI. [let. XI. their sliorcs would uUn larilitato nn^iaiiuion, hy cnaliling Itoudiu'ii (0 (nko i)ioii> ndvnninp*. tliun is ' o\v in (lieir (mjam't, Df the Oj^iposing cddios niiU lurrcnl*. Tours. -"c^i^l^s** llif I '•I i' LETTER XI, Gcvrca, Juhj 22, ISIS. Dear Sir, Bi llsc route of (Jrcal fiodcis liny, T arrivrd yesteid.nj in this villajiT, I IcH Sackd's Harlior on Sunday, and from ftdvcvst' vinds, could nof make Hodus heforr Monday morn- ing, and Tvas detained there until '^I'uesday nioinint*. I did not ft {^ret the detention, as it enahleiJ tne to examine the bay and adjacent shores niih some attention. 'J1n liay of Great Sodys, lies partly in Seaeca and partly in Ontui'io counties^ the division line running south from the head of th" bay, having on the >ve8t, tlie township oC Sodus the norlh-east angle of Ontario, and on the east, the town- ship of Wolcolt, the north-west angle of Seneca county ; "with two villages, Troupsville in Sodus, standing on the point between the bay and lake Ontario, and port Glasgovir standinf* at the head of the bay in AVolcott. !\either of these vil!. ges are yet of Hiueb consequence, but will no doubt, keep pace with the progress of the adjacent country. 1 have seen no uiaj) whereon Sodus is very correctly de- lineated ; on both Lay's and Eddy's maps, the mouth is too ■wide and not represented as much land locked, as it is in fact. Two points project towaids each other from the op- posing sides of the bay. The western most of these points^ 1JIT. XI.J I0DU9. 1'27 is compo88tci'n point, an i»huid liis in the nioudi uf thu bay, united to the uiain Hhurc hy a nalural e.iUHCw.iy, also foniied, nu doubt, by the surf of the lake. 'V\w H]taeo between the island and point is the entrance into Hodiiti. twn about 8 feet water, and leads into an cxcellcut hai hor, sail) from all winds. The shores of lake Ontario, both east and went of Sodiis, are composed of vast banks ofeartti, iweniy orihiii.v I'tet Iti^h, and every where •yielding to the abrasion of the waters of the lake. One dense and continuous forest ooverit tliu sliore, occasionally relieved by new farms. The country is extremely beautiful, picturesque and variegated, aiound the bay. The soil excellent. At the time 1 was their, llio iields were yet covered with grain, harvest beiiig rather iti its commencement than completed. I'his cireumstanc.o gave mo, some surprize ; 1 had been often tuld that to the west of Sacket's Harbor, the climate became more mild in a given latitude. The phenomena, visible to mo since my arrival here, dors not tend to give force to the correctness of such an opinion. Sodus stands in i\. lat. 43** 20* and very nearly due north from Washington City. July 21st, f^t 8o*cIock A. M. I left Sodus rnd proeeodcd towards this place. I found the intermediate stationary dis« iances neai^y as follows : From Sodus to Grifiith's^ Reynold's, - Village of Lyons, ... Geneva Church, - - - Village of Geneva, - - - On leaving Sodus, tho road follows the bluffs of Ontario two miles, frequently in view of the lake ; it tlien turiiss to abruptly south, winding along the western side of bodus —5 3—8 8—16 8— "i* 6— ;J0 li..ii 'it i V, V'.:, |^^--,.»v., ..j^. m > ,;„- , ' jr ■128 aouvB. [LCT. XI. bay, and thence over flic ancient alluvion of lake Ontarie to Keynold's'. AVIiut is called the ridge road or natural turnpike h passed at Gritliih*s. Conti^^uous to Sodus the surfaco oC the ground is brokck,, the vallies are, however, only the fissure -worn since the recession of lake Ontario;* as Avhen the hei^^hJ o(* the table land above the bay is attain- ed, a plain vA' great extent commences witli very little as- perity of surface. It is evident that lake Ontario has re- ceded at dilTerent limes. The natural turnpike is , upon the alluvial plain ; upon this ancient shore of the lake its waves nuist have heat many centuries, and yat iucontestiblc tloerment exists to prave, tliat, for perUaps as many or more *,:■>■ s f-' * FROM TnC ROCHESTER TELRfiRArH. " Something: for Geologists. — \n sinkinjr a well at Cartliagr, .*j short time siricc. the workmen discovered laehc or fiflcen frogs) embod(ieii in a layer of clo5c coinpjicted marl, about iiijie feet bolow the smface. Particulai care was taken to discover wlio- (lier any connTr.jnicalion with tli9 suiTnee could have exfisted; but it was; satisfactorily shown that there was none. They were of a lijiht brown color, apparently about half grown, and very active. They were in a kind of iiest, like mice, and appeared to be iso- lated from the rest of animated nature. We have heard of frogs being clis<.t)\cred in trees, and in rocks: but have never before witnessed tliem so far underground. In sinking the saaie well about fonr leei farther, several more frogs were discovered in a layer of loose sand, tolaiiy disconnected with the superijicumbent stra- tum, or with any possible comnnniication witii the exterior. It is beiievi.'d by the writer, that they have existed therefrom the poicd of the recession of lake Ontario, which is probably not less than a thobsaml >ears: if so, their longevity surpasses that of Thomas rair of the moderns, or IMethuselah of the ancients, and deserves to be lecorded. The doidjter is cha"' igct sons. X. '• Lavthaze, ^ov. 7. 1818," ^es^i Though I do not 1 elieve the last recession of lake Ontario \o have taken place witlin a th(>nsand years past, 1 have published tli " above as a curious tact, both in the revoliiiiors of our globe and in the laws of ai inial life. Many instances are however ou record of cold blooded anima's existing in marl, limestone, aud marble. LET. XI. j LY0N3. 129 ccnlui'ies, this lake must hnvc liad a siufuee hvcnij or thirty foct above (he na(u:'a] tia'npike. At Revnol(J*« tliu alluvia! plain terminates, and a very ruj!:fj;e(I, hilly regiou ccirmtcnces. The transition is abrijpt, and i:vro i'roin every aj^pearanec, >vas tlie original south s!;c:c cf luke Cataj io ; at ti:nes l!ic remoteness at \vhich I have not the ter/ierity to aitentpl a ealeulation. Above Ee; L'oid'c, th(* rond leaves the alluvial plain and ascends the hills by a f;;orf^e, over the mouth ol' which is a natural cause- way.- which v.arj evidently formed by a process similar to that whtel; icri'jed the points of Sodus hay and tlie naXural cause- way, thoi.'.:^h lit U'ast thirty feet above the latter. The tiiiihi;* fror.i Sod is s lo the hills is generally composed- of hi'vjl'H'.k, sn,:;ur maple, red oak, black oak, dm, and lin- deii, liic so:J extremely fertile though too flat ; and very muvih iih'xed with rounded granitic pebbles. Tlio face cl* the counti-y iVotn Reyiioid's to Lyons is ex- cessively broken ; the hills are not wv;^ eievat*. u, but ex- tresuely abrupt and sleep witli a feitlie soil, l,\c:is btands upon the bank of the outlet of Canandai.^ua lake, a short distance below where that outlet joins ^iv:u creek. The viiiaj^e occupies the verge of the hills, and stands upon a ve- ry broken site. The rou!e of the grand canal is traced through Lyons, and up tjic valley of Mud creek lo its source. The outlet is a large creek, w ith banks much more resem- bling: a bavou of lower Louisiana than a water course of the state of Ncw-Yoik. Lyons has a Nourishing appearance amid a fine increasing settlement. Crossing the Canandaigua outlet I found Diyself upon a country generally level, but not so tamely uniform as tlie alluvial plain of Ontario. Cultivation now increased at ev- ery step; the soil excellent, line farms, meadows and orch- ards on evei^ side, which continued to the village of Ge- neva. This is one of the few towns in America named from a town in Europe, where common sense and r.nalogy were con- '^- 1. a .:-.1 130 G£NEVA. {let. XI. IBT. 1 't ' E r ' ' , . / I.V '^' ! it < suited in the borrowed nomenclature. Geneva stands in the townslisp of Seneca, Ontario county, at the lower extremity of Seneca lake. It is built along the margin of the lake extending about hall' a mile in length. The site of the vil- lage is trul^ delightful, standing upon a waving ridge Ij'ing parallel to and rising 50 or 60 feel above the water in the lake ; the view of which is extensive and romantic. The opposite shore in Seneca county rising gently from the wa- ter to considerable elevation, clothed with timber or che- quered with farms. To the north ari: ; the black rain elouds gathered heavy over the eminences to the south of the town of Canandaigua, whiclj was now in full view though three miles distant. The scenery every moment becan)e more and more interesting, and my mind more deeply inter- ested. While descendhig the steepest part of the hill, I was rapidly passed by a man in a sirrgle horse carriage. Mho stopped as soon as he gained the bottom and awaited my com- ing up, and very fi'ankly invited me to t-ake a seat beside Jiim, which 1 gratefully accepted. He then drove rapidly forwards, as the rain commenced to fall in lai'ge drops. AVhen we eame to the lower exli'emity of the Canandaigua lake, and the extensive fields, orchards and meadovs near i . %^JlVmv*n'::l'Vmt:V('n(y nine /^ars afj;;o I e;»n»e iij> this cutlet, "and at that linn* no mark of tiie hnnsan hand wivi here to '< be seen, except those made by savajjes, a village oi' whom <« existed on that point," — sliewinj; me the lower end of the now flonrishiiJi^ town of Canandai.j;ua. I eouhl not doubt his informafiorj, chonjL|;h tliere was something in tlie short- ness of the period, when compared wilh the effects of hnman labor under ni,> eye, t)i;il seemed almost the ejpfect of magie. We arrived at the pnhiie house, jusl in time to save our- selves from heinj; dreiiiehed in a heavy shower, and after 1 had returned Ijini my atknowledgenn nis for his politeness, he informed irie that his name was Yates, and that ho was then in his 72d year. IJis hale, healtliy and firm aspect, rendered this part of !iis information as remarkable as his short hut impressive history of Canandai^^ua. The whole scene was in fact one of those, ^hich was calcilaled to ex- liihit tiie rapidity of improvement in the United Slates. Thirt man entered tliis iIumi wilderness, at an age commonly considered as (he meridian oC life, 13 years; and while yet in tiie vigor of Iiis limbs and faculties, a smiling residence for civilized u»an i.a ; arisen under hi^ eve. I arose this morninj^ early, in order to examine this won- der of western New-York, and was not disappointed in uiy anlieipations ; I found it by far the most richly built town of its extent I had ever seen. It does not admit of compavison with Geneva ; the two places so essentially differ in their lo- cality and position rtspecting the lakes on which they are built, that few traits of resemblance exist between them. Both are objects of astonishment when we recollect how short a period has elapsed since a forest occupied their po- sition. I found the site of Canandai;;jm to be that of ro inclined plane, rising from the lower e:strentity of the lake of the same name. A vall**y, or ratiier bouom^ skirts along thir h. )'..■ XET. XI.] CANANDATGUA. 13S south side of Hie (own, bevond wliich the counlrv rises into hills of eonsidci'iihle elevation ; tothenordi -and no!•{h•^7L•st extends a saving but rjol hilly country; (he er*st side is oc- cupied hy the lake and low g:'oun{'.s of its oulk't. The (own extends in a slsvet of upwards of a nirle in length fi'Oin the lake, liain;^ hy a very.'^i'ntie aecHvity. PJ ny of the houses woiihl doeoriite the oldest and most exien- sive eilies in the United Sialcs, and (Voni a nunib:":* of nliiees the view of the la!;e and sarroundinvr eountrv vo!i!,! re'.vnrd a tour of considc ralde disiance. I sineerely uouhf v !:etiiei* a more desirable village exists in the United States, if in the world. ^ ■i' ; I * On my return from the woshvardj and i^ur'ng a few days stay at C/anandai^rtia, the foi'.ov.iuir stattuieiit made its aj)pfaraiicc in the Ontario Repository. I liavc not the least doubt of its cor- rectness, except as respects the pr )M!ation, whicli is certainly underrated li'any jud^njent can be t'ormed upon t!:e (\vtcnt ol'thc town and the number of persons liiat are to be seen in ihestreeiS. "the village op canandaigua. *•' A few days since, three gentlemen, from a laudahh^ curiosity, volunteered their services to take a census of the in.hahitants re- siding within tliat pai't of the town Canandai!':iia, which is in- corporated as a vilh«^re, and to asceilain the mimber of buildings it contains. It wiil doubtless be interesting to our eitizenSj and gratifying to the public, to know the result. *' From the statement it appears, that the villafre contains 17S8 souls, of whom 9 29 arc males, and 859 females, and including 135 blacks, of whom 30 are slaves. Of the whole number, 47 1 are under the age of 10 years — 184 between 10 and 21 — and 833 over 21. Of buildings, there are 217 dweiiing-houses, 39 stores^ 76 shops, 30 offices, and l.)3 stables. The above aie exclusive of the public buildings, vi25. one congregational meeting-house, one episcopal church, one methodist cliapel ; a court-house, a jail, and a county clerks oHice ; an academy and five scliool- houses. Of the buihlings, we believe not one is vacant, except lialf a doxei*. ounes. It ought to be added, that besides the aca- demy, which is undergoing a thorough renovation, and the com- mon and Sunday schools, there are two respectable private fe- male seminaries, in which the higher branches ort:ducation are successfully taught. The style of building may be said to be not inferior to any, since travellers, who make public their remarkSj call our village not only well; but extravagantly built. m ' i ^-i It i'V,'"*r«»flWH« l.ljt CANAM).VIGU'-. [let. xr. ! I' i; -.' ( '■(- Canai{(Iai,q;iiH is tbcscat of jusfiecfoi* the rieli, fcrdlo, and flourisliiiig co(in()' of Ontario, atul occui>ii>s one of the ost «:li^ible aj^i'iculUiral and euuinitM'cial positions in our wcsti'in country ; it has now a vator commnniculion with the Seneca liver hy the outh;t of its lake, whieh as I before observed unites uilh Mud creek at Lyons, and (Ij(» united stream mcel- inj5 the diseharge of Seneca and Cayuj^a hikes, below Monte- zuma, forms Seneea river. The peeuliar construction of tiiis country can only be seen by recurrence to a map ; cither Luy*8 or Kihly's exhibits with precision the intej'loeking wa- ters ; but neither have altendrd >vitb sufficient care to the i-anges of liij;h hnid. The best map, in the latter respect, that I have seen, is that of Mr. Jolm H. Eddy, of the "West- ern part of tlie state cf New- York, published in 1811. As .1 intend (o give you a recapitulation of the peculiar geologi- cal structure of the route of the intended Grand Canal, and contiguous purts, I >rill enter less minutely at present into a topograpliical review of this neighborhood. You will hear from me a|»;ain soon after my arrival at Buffalo, and visit to tlie Falls of Niagara. In the interim, I rcmiiin, as ever, Sincerely yours. i^ i.;v? " The a])iive surely prp^<;ents a flatloriiignccouiit of llie prospo- lity of tiio pleasant viilafl[e in wliich it is our liap})iiicss to (Iwcli. VViiile otiiei' ))laces round abont ns boast linw early tlicy liave become j^i-ojit- liow by niagfic their trees have been converted into iioiise.s — old Canandaigiia has been growing apace, display- ing the stiu'ily vii^or and healthful aspect of natural increase. *• But (lalteriiT: as this acco:int may appear, some danger is to be apprehended from the number of taverns and groceries em- braced in liie limits of the village. Who, that has not counted tlietn, \vou:d suspect that there are no less ihai^ fourteen taverns? < )r groceries, thpio are also too many. The public convenience does not require such a lunnber of inns, and their toleration can- not but, be (h'trinjental to the morality of the town. Public offi- <:ers, whoso duty it is to regulate these things, should recollect, that it is niiich easier to prevent, than to root out the evil,s whiqU grow from such causes^" UJ-. % XET. XI.] GREAT WSSXEUX CAXAL. iSi LETTER XL [The folloiving correspondence took jAacc after mij return to tYhc-1 orfe, and tlicrcfore nol in order of time wiHi the other communications made during r,iif lour ; hut Ising rekcant to the subject of my teller from Geneva and Canandaigiiat I have judged it most expedient to insert the subject in this jilacc.] Xezv-Forl:, Oclohcr 2, 181 S. William Darry, Emj. Sill, — Tlic New- York Corrcspomling Association for (he Prouiolion of Internal Iniprovements, solicit youi* tiid ami patronage towards the great objects of (lie inslitulion. Will jou please to answer the following questions : 1. What canals and water conununications could be con- nected wi(h (he line of (he great western canal, in our state, for the pronnotion of internal improvements ? 3. What great roads could be united to (holineof the west- ern canal, in our state, for the promotior< of the same object ? S. What advantages dues New-Yrrk possess over New- Orleans for supplying the country north-west of the Ohio river, with goods and njerchandizc ? With high considerations of respect, I am, sir, Yuur obd't servant, CHARLES G. HAINES. :\\iv-York, Ocloher 11, 1813. Ma. C. G. Haines, Sir — Yours of the 25th ult. was duly received, but the pressure of my pi'ivate business on vny return frojn a tour of nearly five montlis, prevented an earlier attention to jour commuDication. You request my opinion in the first instanctt upon— " <■■ i^td^i ■sj^'' w^ rmt^- - 1.ET. 136 CURAT WESTLUX CINAI. [XET. XI r m ■ N J J;'. ■^•"'l <« ^Vl^at canals p.nil wiiler eo!niiuitiicu(i(ms ooiild lie eon- noctetl willi V('sfcrn <'aiial, inoursiutiv for the {H'oniorion of iiilcM'nul improvciitcnls " The most obvious, and by I'ar (lio most hcneficiSl watri- coiiununiealioa (liat can l)e mad*^ luitwcen the great v.cjU- oni canal and eiiwimjacent rivers, is the contenijilated canal between the head of Seneea hike and the SuscjiiehannR.* If llie two eanals were now eompleted as far as Seneca hike sind Cavnji;a river, the inliahitants of Pennsylvania and Kew- York states, would exchan.^e their heavy but invaiualile ar- ticles ol' eoal, j;ypsum, s;il(, iron, and j)ot metal. Three obvious points of wafer connexion, between the threat western canal and lake Ontario, present tliemEches — by the Niagara, Genesee and Oswej^o rivers, ail of wliieli arc obstructed by cataracts of more or less depression from the lowest part of the plane of. the canal to the surface of Che lake. Before procecdin;:; farther in this investigation, permit me to make a few geograpliieal remarks. Tiie eomukcrcial fa- cilities naturally existing between the Atlantic states and the valleys of the Mississippi and St. Lawi'ence.f may be divi- ded into three great divisions; whieli we will designate as the Northern, Middle and Southern. All that part of (he • *• Inti'nial Iinpvdvcmenis. — It appears ])y a roport of the coni- missioDCJS appointetl to explore tlit' route of a contemplated ca- nal, belwccii Seneca lake and Tioga river, that there can be ob- tained a supply of water at iho sinninit level, fulccpiate for every purpose — that l!ie fall towards Seneca lake is 140 feet, and will require 57 locks; that towards Tioga river is 43 feet, requiring 7 locks. Tlie ienL'tli of the canal is estimated at about 20 miles. Amons; the imUicenuMits held forth for oj)ening this navigation, are, the transportation of military stores to the frontier, in the event of future wars, and to send our salt and plaster to Pennsyl- vania, and to receive Uieir iron and coal in return." — i\*iagara Fatviut. t By tlie valleys of the Mississippi and St. l.awrcncc arc here meant, al! the legion watered by ilie tributary streams of these mighty vJvws. m-^ lET. XII.] GREAT WESTERN CANAK. 13? continent of Norlh America^ watered by the St. Lawrence river and confluent branches, to the norili of the Falls ot* ^yiagara, must have a (.oriimercial outlet and inlet by that great river, through Montreal and Quebee South and Southwest ot* the Rapids of Ohio, at the town of Louisville, the produce of human industry will pass to New-Orlej^ns, and the articles of necessity and luxury, not found in the country, will be purchased in that city. Between the Chute ^^f Niagara and that of Louisville, from the Allegany moun- tains to the sources of the rivers of lake Snpcrior, will form the middle commercial district, and New-York, Philadel- phia and Baltimore, will divide the profits of exchange ; Cincinnati, Pittsburg, Doti*oit and Buffalo, wi e in the mid- dle, what Kingston and York, in Upper Canada, will be in the northern, and what Louisville, St. Louis, Natthcz and Natchitoches will be in the soutltei-n divisiun. Partia! inter- communications may, and no doubt will, daily occur in com- mercial exchange between the points of contact of these natural sections, but these interchanges must be viewed as exceptions to a great permanent rule formed by nature her- self. In. examining the subject of any improvement, MAN ought to seek what is practically useful, and not exhaust upon idle fanciful speculation, what is due to attainable objects of real utility. A water route from the Atlantic ocean to the immense western waters, has now arrested the attention of the most enlightened citizens of New-York and Peimsylva- nia; and the subject is one, uiKtn Avhich the |)cfif of the ablest politicians or economists of these great states, may be most beneficially enfiployed. ' It is an object worthy the deepest reflection of a public mind, at once rich in experience and strong in moral youth. It is to be regretted that in the dcvelopemcnt of our natural advantages, local prejudices, party and personal animosities should impede ilm progress of rational research. It is wretched logic, to confound quei^ ' L I 4' '■ ff J jj^^l^j i*!n,iM?"* rwiMS" 13» t;Uli'.T WESTE;:^ CANAI. [let. XII. ■ i < ':■ >' " ;> 'l ■4 "4 ^ ■ -i / . «! . '1^ t'iS' 1 lil' r. r''!i''i, i A-'\ tiuns ot* nndonal infercst, with the triilinp; views of faction, or the imrrow coneei»linas of corporntiori pniilics. I have met with two woikii on u similar siil>jec( ; one, «< A (opogra|)hicaI de9('rij)tion of (he province of Lower Canada, and on the rchitive connexion of hoth provinces, >vith the United States of ilmerita." lly Joskmi Hou- gh ette, Esq. I'he other, ** A Slvetch of the Internftl Improvements al- ready made hy Pennsylvania; with observations upon her physical and fiscal means for tluir extension ; paitieularly as they have i-efereneo to the future growth and prosperity of J*hiladelphia." By Sajickl Brkck, Esq. Whoever reads attentively these two treatises, will I regret to say, find very nearly as much liherality from 31 r. Bou- chette. respecting the United States in general, as from Mr. Brcck, when contrasting the city of Philadelphia with tho neighhouriug cities of New- York and Baltimore, and partic- ularly New-Orleans. The latter writer indeed appears in one point to extreme disadvantage, he seems to consider Pennsylvania as aii incidental or secondary ohject, when in- cluded in the same prospect with her commercial capital ; Mr. Bouehelte, to his credit, extends his views to the causes "\vhicli may lead to the nggre/^ate prosperity of all the Cana- das, and does not confine his anticipations to Quehec. To a reader unacquainted with the relative political posi- tion of aflTairs on this continent, hoth of these writers would appear to he inhabitants of countries environed w ith rival and even hostile states. This spirit of rivalry is as injurious as a generous emulation would he beneficial to the progress of improvement. The inherent principles of human nature will, however, operate, iiiaugrc all that sophistry can op- pose to their progress. iMcn will carry their superabun- dance to the best markets, Avhelher in New-York, Philadel- jdiia, Baltimore, New-Orleans, or elsewhere. Mr. Breck, page I,'], anticipates the time when the com- merce of the wutcis of the Missouri and Mississippi, be- LET. XII.] GREAT WE8TEUN C\NAt. I3» >onfI (ho tnuudi of Ohio, will cuiiic (o IMiiladelpliiii ; in fitie, (hal an era will arrive uhcn hninan hciui^s >vili luil i.tiUU utiles inosdy up stream, (u uhtaiit u \yui'8<; inaiUel than ihey could find by floating down stream half (he distance, if this prophecy is ever reali/cd, the old proverb, •* go larthcr and fare worse," will receive a very remarkable application. I notice Mr. Breek's work as it embodies niiicli of tho common place philosophy on the subject upon which I am now descanting. To consider that gained (o Pennsylvania M'hich is lost by New-York, or vice tcrsu is just about as coi'reef, as it would be for an individual to desire a palace for a residence with inud-walled, thatched-covered, liovcls» to decorate the prospect from its portals. Jn fact, the ad- vance of any city or state of our comuioii country has a re- flective effect ; tho science, wealth, and liberal institutions of any part,, must shed their kindly beams upon the whole, and the illumination must bo stronger in direct ratio to ap- proximation to the centre of light. But to return to our subject. The relaiive territorial ex- tent of the three great commercial sections of the central parts of our continent, is as nearly as I estimate them, as follows : Sq,. MILES. 2i0,000 320,000 1,200,000 Valley of the St. Lawrence below Niagara, Middle or central section, South and southwestern section, Each of these grand divisions have their appropriate ad- vantages, which it is, t\nd will continue to be the duty of tho inhahitants respectively to improve, 01* (he three, the greatest number of practical and indispensable canals and I'oads, can and will l>e formed in the middle or central sec- tion. Until the completion of tl?e great Western Canal be- tween the waters of the river iJudson, and those oF lake Eric, that between the Seneca lake and the Susquehanna river, and that between the Hudson river and lake Cham- i: r'M » *«— '"w."J - iiV'^i^itmSfiae**-^^ Hi) GRKAT WBsTF.nW CAVAt, [LKT. XII. -■r.:(- 4 •■.■ t * plain, nn otlieis oiif^lit to bu ever beriousil^ (hou^iit of b^ llie oili/i'iis of (}iii) M(u(«'. Yoiif second it ijiiirv is, " >Vhal (iirat Uosids coiilil be Unifefl lo llic line of tbe AVcHtern Canal, in our slate, fur llic promotion of ibe Kunie object ?*' Tbi<4 latter iri<|iiisiiion woiil.i admit of a much widei* range tban lite lornier, if piiisiKMl in all its detailit ; tbere is i^eui'ecl^ five mib'« upon (he wlioiu line of tbe eanal, from \vbi(;b useful and neee88ai7 roads ntay not bo drawn ; but of ibese, two oblrudc (iieniMelveii ^ immediate nolice. One to the village of Hamilton upon tbe AHej^any river, in Ca(a- rau.ijus counl)', and the other belwern (be (owns of Buffalo and Hamilton. The lad'ly perceived iwiportanec of these (WO hitter places, has prevented (heir having excited (he in- terest they so eniinenily deserve. The proper point of eon- tact with the eanal, or its eoniluent waters, by the liamilton road, is somethin.^ di;!ieult to tix with precision, ireneva, and Canaudai^ua, present each some respective advantaj^es of position when contrasted with each other; and have cith- er- a decided superiority, as points of departure, over any oth- er places in this state. 1 have visited both these towns, and iVoin information (here received, have no doubt but that ex- cellent roads can be formed, fi'om each to Jlamilton, at no extraordinary expense. If I was called upon to dici.ite a plan upon this subjeut, I would direct the fornmtion of a turnpike road IVout both Geneva and Canandaigua, in the di- rection towards Hamilton. These roads should converge iiomewhere in the northwest angle of Steuben county, at or near the village of Dansville, or Arkport, and run thence to Hamilton by Angelica. No roads that could be possibly formed in this state, in addition to those already made, would produce so great and insmediate benefits, as these I have traced. If this route was laid open by good roads, it would, even independent of tlit^ Grand Canal, become iiistanler the thoroughfan' between the New-England states and the Ohio Valley. To llioso v/iio are acquainted witii the extent and jgrai ! IJ£T. XII.] ^ORBAT WE8TKnX CAXAF.. lU muiis of (he tide of eniigrution now sotting »ou(itucs(, and unnimlly incruasin;;. (he udvunlagiH of such a roii(e will be apparent. Much eiiiharrassnienl id now expeiionced Uy ein- i;;i'uh(s iVom MaHHachtisoKs, New-Ilanip»ihire and Vermont 8(ales, (or tiu* want of a diree( and euH^ means of (ranspoe- (nCion to I*i((Mburf;h. No part of (he weH(ern (i'rri(or^ of Nsw-York h ko thinlj" peopled, as (he countrj' included in Steuben, Allegan^' and ('a(araugUH eonntiesj good roads would (end ^reull^ (o eneourage se((Iemen(. Though not equal in iinpor(anee or necessity with (he roads from llaniihon (o Canandaiguu and Geneva, jet a ;;oud solid road fi'om Ifamillon to BuflTalo, >vould l>c of great iililitj and eonvcnienee to (he people who inhabit the exiremo western section of (his state. In a military poin( of viov, the latter rond would be of incaleuluble »d vantage in a war with Great Britain, in opening more extensi\< ly (ban at pre- sent exists, linrs of ready eomniunication with our interior and Caiiailian frontier. It i'} much to b«) dcsii rd that a goo<1 road was also carried from Hamiiion to Pittsbtirg. In execution of such a work» the people of New-Yoi k and those of Pennsylvania ought to act in (oneert : both parties are deeply interested, though the former rather more than (he latter, as the country upon the Allegany is vet but thinly inhabited. From the inilu^ enec of frost in winter and heat in summer, many of our rivers are rendered useless as channels of communication, often half (he year. This is (he ease with all our in(erior streams north of Maryland. Durable roads are, therefore, as indispensable as canals^ and in places where heat may ex- haust or cold congeal water, roads and canals ought to be formed co existent, and made la their turn subservient to the facility of human intercourse, and the augmentation of Iiuman enjoyment. The road from Utica to Sackct*s Harbor^ though already open, demands very extensive improvements. I travelled this route in the sceond week of last May^ and found main .La ■|| ^rS ;?ranch of Black river — a good wooden b. Idge where the road passes, ... 10 "Watertown, on the left bank of Black rivei*, 16 — Hrownvillc, rlgla bank of Black river, 4 Saeket's Uaibor, - - , jj —C'h 3-1, —80 3.* —Si 3-i .— \ ,.hI i 'I ■ II I.BT. XII.] 6RBA.T WESTERN CAXAL- iiS A direct road runs from Watertown to Sacket's Harbor, distance S miles, hut at the time I travelled the country, this latter road was pronounced im{)assable. I was, therefore, obliged to take the more circuitous route hy BrownviHe, and of coursft traverse Black river twice. Good bridges have bi'on foriiiod over that precipitous stream, at Watertown and at Bruwnville. Reulefrom Geneva to Hamiltoiu Heigiit of land between Canandaigua and Crooked lakes, . . - - - SO Ark port, ----- 20 50 Angelica, - - - . - 20 — -70 Haniihon, - - - - - .so_ioo Intersecling route niith the above, from Cannadaigua. Naples, - . - - - 20 Arkport, - . - - - - 23 — 13 From tiie foregoing it will be seen, that the distance from Geneva is 100, and from Canandaigua 93 miles, to Hamilton. The land distances could be sliortcned Uy passing hy water from Geneva, through the Seneca and Crooked lakes, and jli'om Canandaigua, by the Canandaigua hie. If the proposed roads were made, it is probable they would intersect near (he Conhocton branch of Susquehanna, or between the Con- hocton and Arkport. Diverging roads could be easily form- ed from the main lines to the heads of Canandaigim, Seneca, and Crook <^d lakes, and thus open still more extensively tho channels of transportation, in a very improvable and im- proving country. From the head of Crooked lake to Bath or the Conhoc- ton, is only about 5 miles. From Bath, rafts and boats can be and have been conveyed down the Conhocton into the main stream of Tioga, and finally into the Susquehanna river. Route from Hamilton to Buffalo, MILES. Cataraugus Creek, SO Buffalo, - . - - - - -J' 30-.6i ; fit r'^ . i o ww Mg - i'%% 6RI.1T ME3TEK5 CAJfAlS. [lBT. XI r. ! IV M : ■ L '■ ■. \ '>:■■ 1 ■ >■ 1 .'■;■■" ''»'■>. (i.;v^ ;;.-r:t '■(■'.: '. '■: ;^. •. iii-. This disfHrtce is measured upon ■■if r h\ H J * ■■1 k| \ >{ f^ \,4 4 ■m '^ engagement to transport at those prices ; and it is no more than justice to express our conviction, tliat J\lr. Smyth would not un- dertake what lie caimot perform. Apart from the advantages which would accrue to those of our citizens, who are immedi- ately concerned in this carrying trade, the general interests of our state would L» ^^'reatly promoted by tlie success of the con- templated project. The mere expenditure of one million of dol- lars* per annum, at which the transportation from Philadelphia and Baltimore to Pittsburg has been calculated, enormous as the amount may be considered, would be trifling in comparison to the increase of active commerce in our cities — of the immense ac- cession of patronage and support to ir sleam-boati and other numerous establishments in the interior. " The trouble and expense of maturing these extensive ar- rangements, must have been sufiicient to appal and discourrige an ordinary mind. Mr. Smyth deserves great pi^ise for his en- terprizc and perseverance, and when we consider the interest which the state has at stake in the success of the undertaking, we most heartily wish that this public spirited individual may fully lealizc the fruition of his hopes." " Mavy, 1 6th Xot'ember, 1818. " T take the liberty to lay before you the atMiexed Advertise- ment and liist of Routes to Pittsburg. In addition to thesiatc- ments therein contained, allow me to inform yon, that during tl.r winter season, transportation to any point west of Albany can be obtained at very reduced prices. If goods thcrcfori^ wece pur- chased in New- York immediately before the closing of the river, and shipped to this city to wait for sleighing, they can, beyond a doubt, be delivered at Olean for .^2.50 per cwt., with a ct rtainfy of reaching Pittsburg on or about the first of April. Wink r transportation between New-York and Albany never exceeds three dollars, and is frerpiently no more than two dollars per cwi, * We bave seen this expense stated Ht three minions of dollars per aiuiim. i ' il ^h i ;'■• "''-i.i US dREAT WESTERN CANAL; f LET. XIT. LET. ■| J:^: 1 l'^^',' ; -f '•ii'.'i', ■ '■'I / ■ ' ■■ 'Tt ■ .-'r' •. -Jl ^'^-'I., ■a1. \,-'-,.i "S! t.. ^' Vj ivV: K ■:'.' •5 '■" ' ■M r.-^ 1 % -^^.: ^^i-'^': ^ An- ill;..',:. ■ an(1?grnat part of (hose of Iliirony will afiurd fine se((Ie. ineiils. liVith but vei7 few cxceplions, those regions are hcalthj and supplied with excellent water. Let the produce of their labor pass where it niaj, the uumber of human beings that are now daily pasting Buftiilo ^vill soon dissipate the forests and supply their places with (owns, villages, farm-houses, fields, iiieiidows, orehard», and gardens. The beautiful and highly eultivatcd lands of the strait of Erie, are now a s])eeiinen, of what in forty year» will be the landscape from ISiagara to Chicaga. " Although the navigation of tlie Allegany, from Olean to. Pittsburg, may be depended upon moio safely in the spring and au- tumn than during the summer months, yel a person well acquaint- ed with that river has engaged to convey for me any quanlity of property, at least once a week, and appears to feel tJie utmost confidence in his ability to reach Pittsburg at all times between April and Decemlwr, in eight days. " Respectfully soliciting your influence in favor of the under- taking, I remain " Your most Obed'». Serv't. "CHARLES SMYTH.'" *' TRANSPORTATION TO PITTSnURG, THROUGH THE STATE OK NEW YORK. " The subscriber having lately formed a connexion with a gen* tleman residing near the liead waters of the Allegany river, agaia olFers his services to the Merchants of the Western States and Territories, as agent to transpoit property of every description from the city of New- York to Pittsburg, in the slate of Pennsyl- vap'a. Assortments of goods, (not single packages, or those whuse bulk is out of all proportion to their weight) if shipped at New-York on board the sloops of the ' Western Link,' will be delivered at Pittsburg for J'lVfc Dollars per cwt., all charges, except cooperage, included. Six months credit, with interest, will likewise be given, when demanded, for approved New- York or Albany acceptances. " For more particular information, printed lists of tl^e several New- York routes have been transmitted to Messrs. Richard Bow- en & Co. Pittsburg, and Mr. Benjamin Armitage, No. 54 Pine-« street, New-York. « CHARLES SMYTH, ^'Mbany, \CthA''ovemberj\S\9.^^ -a S u S *• m £ V a« 1 ■ja c *t e a 1 O ^ m C. •S 1 :| m c '9 LET. XII.] ALCAT WE8TEUN CAl7At. 146 It is a very gratifying anticipation, to behold in our fancy the epoch to come, when this augmenting mass of population will eujoy, in the interior of this vast continent, a choice collection of immense marts, where the produce of the hanks (Wi' innumerabie rivers and lakes can be exchanged, « l! ^ c 0.50 4,00 0.50 o o >oo tQ SA 1 Ml 6Q 6 (3 •O « I" I O • 01 « Sec •a in O a " tc-4: S 10 c« in o o fi 09 •I * e ^ *» o 10 O u «JS V be M -a CO oa V V .•4 S.Sb-0 .s 3 »4 s r -a o ja * c tS el ti o m bo £ e ^ ^ S ^ 6 I "" OS ^ ^ M Ell e o r i b 8^ e . e o ju • • «^ J- ^2 " ' X s •a P bo s 9 S M o o B 3! c c. bo s M ^-: »> bfi ^ ^ X ^ >« S bo ^ O kJ ^<5 a rr e « o J j^ > 2 J^ 2 *■■ 4 <*J! ^ ►C .'• ^ :it i ^ ^i!! ;f4 if I ^i I S'" (%■'' \ 150 CUE AT WESTERN CANAL. [let. XII. l:^M :• \- 1-^' TM.sf-' .. m. FUr' J;'' " Rp * ' 'i.W^'**. • / ,. n .'^-t '! 1' ■■ i .-■ 1 liy ' f % a-'-\' U ,.' ■ 1 I^i'. V _;;; on or near (he shores of ihc Atlantic ocean for the conven- iences of Europe, and (he luxuries of the Indies. In (he Edinburgh Review^ for June, 1818, when speaking of Mr. Morris Birbeck's (our in America, and (he stream of popula(ion passing from (he borders of (he Adantic ocean into (he region we now call reladvely western : occurs (his remarkable passage : *f Where is this prodigious increase of numbers, (his vast ex(ension of dominion (o end ? Wha( bounds has na(ure set to (he progress of (his migh(y na(ion ? Let our jealousj burn as i( may ; let our intolerance of America be as un- reasonably violent as we please ; still it is plain (hat she is a power in s;)i(e of us, rapidly rising (o supremacy ; or, at leas(, (hat each year so mightily augments her strength, as to overtake, by a most sensible distance, even (he most for- midable of her competi(ors. In foreign commerce she comes nearer (o England (ban any odier maritime power, and al- ready her mercan(ile navy is within a few thousand (ons of our own ! if she goes on as rapidly for (wo or (hree years, she mus( over(ake and ou(s(rip us." Such are the impressions already made in Europe by our existing state, such (he views of our fu(ure progress ! The bounds (hat na(ure may have in preparation, to limit the prosperittji wealthf power or science, of (he people of the United S(ates will never be seen by either you or me. With sentiments of sincere esteem^ I am, dear sir, yours, WILLIAM DARBY. CuARLBs G. Haines, Esq."^ Cor. Sec'ry. of the Socie- {^ (y for the Promotion off Internal Improvements. J n, " t.-ki; iET. XIII.] BtflfALO; ioL LETTER XIII, Buffalo, July 31, 1818. Dear Sib, On (he ^2M\i inst. I left Ganandaigua, and arrived here on the 27(h. I have, as usual reuiiUeU (he HtH(ionai7 distances, as by recurrence (o particular places I can more clearly convey precise information upon the topogr.iphy of the coun- try. JHiles. —2 2 k - 1 5 1 G 1 7 1 8 2 1-2—10 1-2 3 -—13 1-2 lr2— Ifc 1-2— li< 1-2 1 1-2— IC 1 1-2—17 1-2 3 1-2—21 3 —2* 2 —26 S-i — 26 3-i 3 1-2—30 1-4 3 1-2-33 3-4 2 1-2—36 l-i 2 3-4— 3 U i —43 2 —43 From Canandaigua to Rosses, Bates's & Shaw *s, Steel's, Loomis's, Carter's Church in Bloomfteld, Eagle's, West Bloonifield, Honeoy creek. Minor's, Tinker's, Lima Church, Brown's in Avon, W. T. Hosmer's, Alhert ilosmer's, Genesee river and bridge, Sylvester Hosmcr's, Caledonia, IN ash's, Ganson's in Leroyville, Clark's, Ugnicls's, > IS i*? 152 m m ■ ■ s . BLFPALO. j^LET. XIII. •Miles. Chufchiirs, - - . 2 -17 Ef;gle8ton*9» - • - 1 1 -2— i8 1-2 llATAVIA, - - - ^1-2—51 McCrucken's bri(]{>c over Tonnnvanta creek, ... 4 —53 Wilcox's, ... 2 —57 Tou9e!ej^*s, ... 2 —59 Murder creek, - •» - 6 —65 Holines*s, ... 4 —69^ Porter's, * « . 8 —77 Miller's, . . - j, —81 Ilenshaw'Sy ... 1 —82 Ilopkiii's, - - - 1 —83 Atkins's, ... 3 —86 Averill's, - - - 3 i -2—88 1 3 BUFFALO, . - -21 -2—91 Leaving Cunnndaigua, the country along the road for sev- eral miles continues flat, and in sonic places even swampy. The soil exuberantly fertile, timber, sugar maple, eln^, lin- den, nhite hickory, ash, hemlock, and some oak. Tho iarmF have a fine appearance, and the whole country seemed in a state of rapid improvement. The rapidity in which the public houses succeed each other, evince the great publicity of the road. Great pains have been taken in West New-Tork, to open and render convenient the highways ; but in few countries are the construction of good roads more difficult. The rich fertility of the soil, and its depth of vegetable mould, though so very desirable in an agricultural point of view, oppose very serious obstacles against the formation of roads. In the winter season, unless when the surface is completely fro- zen, travelling must in this quarter be very difficult and painful. Approaching Bloomfield, a very great change in the as- pect of the ground is visible ,* the dull monotony now disap- i I'l 3.Er. XIII.] CENKSr.K RITEU. 15. J pears, hills gradually' rise into eotisidernble eU'valiun. A cireuinstaiicc is here iippurent I hut in reall}' a inatler ui' as- lotiishiiient. As you perceive (he surraec of the earth swel- ling into eminences, you liud (he ritlgcH ail lying [mraUel to each other, and to (lie chain ol' lakes which f'urni (he hieneea river. This configuration eonlinues (o BulFalo, and to (he Falls of Niagara. In ittaiiy parts of (he road I found my- self contluuaUy rising; and falling over (his chain of ridges ; and C4)uld not avoid observing, (hut if their intervening val- lies were lilled with water, a cluster of islands would be pro- duced, of astonishing re&emblanec to that of the Gallops in St. Lawrence river. The ridges have the same regular globular swell which you will remeuiber I have noted, as eliaructeristie of ihe features of the Gallops. Hcliistose limestone ex(retneiy iissure mark, from the enormous masses of schistose fissured blue limestone. Many places are seen where this rock covers large spaces, and has every appearance of having once form- ed the bed of a body of water. I did not perceive the exis- tance of shells in the composition of this sfone» but my time and opportunity was too limited to admit extensive research ; to note the general appearance of the country was all that was in my power. Timber in (his neighborhood, pinc> elm* sugar maple ; soil fertile, though agriculture must in many places be incommoded by the large bodies of naked or slight- ly covered limestone. Water coiirses all flow north-west into the Tonnewanta, Afld every where wash tlio rough surface ol" the fractured M r. XIII. nircd to pe coiin- flit<8 in- 8 of the llatnvia venients Di'd one ^ of iho [\\V \u'\\{^» Had not (l»e low- hiinloek • region. he mass n' cithei' iie ioruis the road country. Is occur, ly of re*- I red hluc k covers ice form- the exis- iny time esearch : all that inc, elm* in many >r slight- ne>\anta. r act u red #•' ' »••>•!'• ..... .... ... .••^...4^....» <-«••• .,.»^.. •••«•*••«- inrji'i'A.N siKrTironrufihfiJMKirp .s tl/ ff'vtitcr ti, the htad >•/" the r,ip. 'tt>' . in the ritpiJ^ » art at fatU ' i/n the- A^'w K>rh side/ 7 fhiVti the A'tt/ls /.' Aefijtiitrtfn tot teet &,'r \' *•! IV. m ,'4^. Wm STRAITS of ^lACiARA KNGKAVKP for D.JRBYS TOTTR.. J"tl{ n'.lfccfcer jfc. •! 1, • ' ■' ■'(' •.^■:; i; LET. XIII.3 n^}ttx^o, io.b T^£L M limestone^ and bofore reaching the main stream fall over consideralilo precipices of (he same rock. Five miles from BulTalo, at Atkins's, near the seat of judge Granger* tiie last of those creeks crGss (he road, and within al)out two hundred yards to the north of where it passes* the road falls down a considerable ledge. The coun- try then assumes a waving rather than a hilly appearance, to within aliQjjt a mllA from BuiTuIo* when an almost uniform plain commences^ which is terminated by the banks of lake Eric. It was evening when I arrived in Buffalo* therefore unable ' to gratify my curiosity l»y a review of Che place unlil the morning of the 28th. The events of (he last war between \ the United Slates and Greai Britain* had rendered Buffalo an object of interest to the American traveller. I also felt anxioMs to see lake Eric* which in addition to its natural po- sition, had also gained a rank amongst the parts of our coun- tr^^t which during the same war that exposed Buflalo and ^Vashingtikn to the flames of an incendiary, also gave re- nown to the nation, and left 'land-marks of glory which will only be effaced by the ruin of the world and human litera- ture. I arose early in the morning and hasted to examine the village and its vicinity. Like most other new towns* Buffii- lo is composed in great part by one street following the course of (he road towards the eastward* though the town itself lies very nearly in a north and south direction. A few others cross the main street* but are but little impfovcd. But very little appearance remains of the destructive rage of war. Most of the houses are rebuilt* but as in Kingston^ some vestiges still exist to attest the fury of invasion. M»> ny good and convenient* and some elegant dwellings and store houses have been erected since the termination of t5o last war. Three or four excellent inns, and many decent favcrns offer th«ir accommodations to the traveller. .')■ :'>''(d k '>>■ 11 [■ft • ! . I : .■} m'- n<:,- il .#1 •156 BUITFALO. [let. XIII. ! T!.c natural situation of the (own of Biiffaloy though presenting nothing eitlicr grand or striking, is nevertheless extremely advantageous as a commercial depot, 'ilie at- tendant diagram will exhibit its ri^iative situation as respects lake Erie, ButlUio ci'eek« and the adjoining pui-ts of !New« "Voik and Canada ; hut caniiot convey an ade(jnat«j vuncep- tion of tiie minute features of its local. Butfaio creek en- ters lake Erie meandering over an alluvial plain* whose sur^ face is not eleva* d above llie ordinary level of lake Erie more than four or live VvvU 'J'his plain extends down the lake and!Niagara river* terminates above Blaik Book, and is about SOO yards wide. Jtii^ing above this phiin fifleen or twenty feet, extends another level eomposed of sand, rounded pebble, and a subslralum of vegetable earth. Upon th« latter stands t!:etuwn of iiiilTulo. The creek is formed by the union of Cayuga, Seneca, and Cazcno^i branches ; which risin;; in the hills lo the south-east, approadi Buffalo by a very rapid current, wiiieh, howe\er, subsid;? before the united waters reach lake Erie, Seneca and Cayuga creeks rise in the town- ship of Sheldon, in Genesee county, interlock with the Tonne^vanta, and iiow nearly pmallel to each oihir to- Tvards the north-west, enter ^ia^i.ra county, and contin- iiJag the same direction about twenty miles in comparative course, turn to (he west, and unite five miles a little voulh of east from the town of Buffalo. Cazenovia creek rises in the sonth-'^ast angle of Niagara county, intcrlocjfTng with the head waters of Cataraugus, Hows nearly parallel to Seneca, falls into the united streams of Seneca and Cayuga three miles south-east of Buffalo, and from thence to their junction with lake Erie take a common name with the town. The harbor formed by this creek is excellent and perfectly safe from all winds; but from the shallowness of the bar at its mouth, will only admit small vessels of four or five feet draught. A light. house is now stau«ling upon the point be- tween the lake and creek, and is certainly a great convrn- h'nce to persons navigating the lake. 'J'he creek is navigable liET. XIIl.j BUFFALO. 157 foi' b'r.iis 10 (he iii'st (»pks uhovc its moutli^ from whence iJl)\viij I's it is inicr'i'lijiiod bv t'jills. Ijai'trt* vcsriels re <)'jh,^'..(i at bo anchored out in the lake n^ or i'ail (loun below Bird island in (lio mouth of* Niagara river. Tbi* fMinvnl coniincner § (o be apparent opposite the mouth ol" JJuIfubxreek, bul is llicre vprj- gentle, gradually and ini[U'rt'ep(iblv auguieniiHg Hb the strait cotUracih, until opposite Black iioek. wbere the wbole vulnine is h'ss than a ntiie wide; the velocity of the stream cannot be less than five or six miles an hour, with a medium depth of from twenty to tbiriy feet. 1 walked down the beach from the mouth of the creek to the vi!la,!^e of Black Koek. The greatest part of the dis- tance (two mi! sj is a sandbank. From the mouth of the creek a!i<»ui iiall'a mile the sh^ore it: low, but then rises into a ridge of at least ten feet perpeudicular height above the water. This enormous bank of sand and flat pebbles has bt'cn produced by the dashing of the waves for unlimited ages, and is no doubt daily accumulating, lis elevatioa must originate with the winds unaided by the water, as no storms that could now occur, would ever raise the surge of the lake to the higher part of the bank. Bird island is nothing more than a mere ledge of rocks rising above the surface of the water, but admirably situated to shelter vessels from almost all winds that could much af- fect them in this place. 'Ever since my arrival on the St. Lawrence waters, I have been impressed with reiterated facts, which combine to prove the general prevalence of a current of air which moves in the sume direction with the waters. So incessant is the prevalence of this wind upon the St. Lawrence, below the Thousand islands, that the entire forests have a visible bent to the north-east. The same effect is very perceptible near Sacket's Harbor, and after crossing the Genesee river trav • ellir,^ westward, becomes more and more apparent as lake JBrie is approached. The orchards arc particularly iniluen- M2 'I' I '^1 15$ BJtAC'K RtfCK. [i.ET. XIII I'Mi f.i.; « €cd b^v (Lis current, and between Batuviu and BuiTuluarc so regularlv and so unilbrnil}' bent eastwards, as to uppeai* al- most the effect of design in those who liave planted the trees. JVcar the beacli of lake £rie» this, I may say, almost uu- rdianging wind has forced the forest trees to assume a stoop- ing posture, July 29th I visited Blaek Rock. This is a small but ap- parently a thriving village, two miles north of, and built upon the same plain with Buffalo. Here the banks of tho Niagara river or strait, present a very exact resemblance with those of the St. Lawrence, from Bt ockvillc to Bamil- ton. Rising by gentle acclivity from the water ; both sides of the river being cultivated uffurd a fine prospect, though from its longer selllement. the Canada shore is much more improved than that of New-York. Unless in a cataract, I never before witnessed so large a mass of water flowing with such prodigious rapidity. The bottom of the river is com- posed of smooth rock, over vhieh the water glides. If the stream ilowed over broken masses of stone it would he impassable. After viewing Black Rock I took advantage of a boat go- ing down, and hasted towards one of the great objects of my journey, the Falls of Niagara. The day was intolerably warm, with scarce an air of wind to move a leaf. I found the river much more winding than I had expected from the maps I had seen. Our boat foUoweil the west channel, leav- ing Grand island to the east. Passing this island I was struck vilh its remarkublc resemblance to many of the St. La>vrencc islands, having a similar swell rising from the water. Some new openings are now making, but the great- est part of its surface is yet forest. I had no means of ex- amining the timber, but at a distance the trees had a similar mixture with the opposite shores, hemlock, sugar maple, elm, oak, and linden.^ !5incciny return to Ncnv-YorI<; the following nppcared in ihe lET. sm.J TONNKWANTA CREnK. i^ii- TonnewanU and EllicoU's creek enter flic cast channel of Niagara strait very nearly opposite to the middle of Grand island. Extensive marshes and swanips skirt the Tonnewan- ta from its mouth, for more than twenty niiles upwards' This creek or rather river, rises in the town of Orange ville» in the south side! of Genesee county, interlocking witli tho sources of Cataraugus and Buffalo creeks, and with somo streams which cuter the west branch of Genesee river. From its source the Tonnewanta ci'osses in a northern direc- tion Orangevillf, Attica, and Alexander townships, reaches Batavia after flowing about twenty-live miles ; it thenoe gradually curves iv the north-west, west, and south-iAest by mrest, fulls into Niagara river forty miles from Batavia, hav- ing an entire course of sixty- five miles. This stream has now become an object of interest, from the circumstance of public prints, exlracled from the Niagara Journal, published at Suffaio. FROM THE NIAGARA JOURNAL. " Population of Orand Island. — A very considerable selllement »i squatters has been made unon this island, principally in the course of the last season. There are now, we are informed, more than one hundred families, collected from all quarters j many from Canada and the middle counties of this state, and conside- rable improvements are making. The island is situated in the Niagara river, and commences about three miles below Black Ruck, and extends to within a mile and a half of the falls. It is twelve miles long, and from two to seven miles broad. The whole of it, before the recent inroads, was clothed with heavy tiiiiber of an excellent quality. The soil is said to be strong and rich, well adapted to cultivation. The title to it has not yet been determined by the commissioners, but it is generally admitted to be within the territory of the United States. Our readers will probably recollect, that the Indian title to this and the other islands in the Niat^aia was ceded to the state of New-York, by treaty made at Btiilalo, on the 12lh of September, 1815, l>etween Gov.' Tompkins and others, commissioners on the part of the slate, and the chiefs, &c. of the Seneca nation. The state paid one thousand dollars down, and secured an annuity of five Ii«n-< dred dollars This island will probably, at no distant period, be^ a>me very populous, and highly ctiltivatcd." »;-' 'il n in i m. /J I'j'r.ij .V 5 16U 'JOA.NilWANTA tUEKB:, [let. XIII* )(s be^Lcing fur some (listancc intendod as (lio rotit<* of flie Gran^Canal ; the land cuiiliguous to (he luuer )'vood standing upon u sloping bank. Hie noise of tjie cataraet is heard, but its features unseen, until the observer advances to the verge of the i'VATEU, that even in description has excited (lie admira- tion of cuUivated man ! I crossed the Niagara strait about '250 yards below ibe chute. The rirer was in some measure ruiUed by the conilict it had sustained above, but no danger sipproaclied the passenger. Perpendicular walla of rock rose on both sides, to th'c appalling elevation of between three and four hundred feet. The trees which crowned the upper verge of this abyss appeared like shrubs. I was drenched to the skin by the spray of the cataract ; but the sublime scene towering over my head, was too impressive to permit much reflection upon a momentary inconvenience. The river below the fall ilows with considerable rapidity, but with kss velocity or turbulence than I had been induced to expect. The opposing banks are perfectly similar, both being perpendicular about half the descent ; below which enormous walls extend slopes, composed of tiie broken frag- ments that have been torn from their original position by the torrents from above. Most maps of Niagara are very defective, the river being represented too straight. Tho best delinealion of this phenomenon which I have seen is contained in the map of Niagara river, published with Gen. Wilkinson's Memoirs. In that draft, the river above the falls is represented, as it is in fact, flowing almost westward. Below the chute the stream ilows abruptly to the north-east* ^vhich course it pursues more than a mile, from whence it again resumes a northern direction, which, with some par« tial bends, it continues to the place of iis final exit in lake Ontario. Between the lower extremity of Grand isle and the moutlf of Chippewa river, the Niagara is upwards of a mile wide, l)ut contracts a little as tke rapids eoaimenee. The banks ''mmmmsK L ' } V 9f LET. XlII.j MAtiAUA TALL8. 163 u*; hi;;h as Citippcwa river, are not vcrv nitich elevntcd nbove llie suiTact) of (he slrait, hut apparently' riue in di'secntling (o tlie pilch or eliiile. TItis change of rehilive lieight la un- ]y a deuep(tun in vision, occasioned by (he Mcar of (he cata- ract. After crossing as I have already mentioned, I traversed (he Canada shore fo the l)ank nhove the grand or Canada chute. On tiic diagram enclosed, I have inarked (he letlci^ ^. upon the spot, from wlierc the best >iew can be taken of (he falls, rapids and islands. 'Many {MM'sons have insisted that the best view of the falls is to he had from Goat island. At this time J cannot form a comparative Judu,nient, as tho bridge built by Judge Porter, from the New-York shore to Goat iiiland, was broken by the ice of last winter. 1 urn doubtful of the fact, of the Ciills hcing seen to very much advantage from this island, as tho perspective must be very oblique. 'J'hc rapids are, however, but little less worthy of a visit than the falls (liemselves, and can no doubt be seen with much greater eftVct from Goat island than from jeithcr shore of the strait. The rapids indeed on the Canada chan- nel is a scene of sublimity and grandenr, Tumbling over ledges, many of which are 8 or 10 feet perpendicular de- scent ; these rapids are in fact a chain of cataracts, over which the immense volume rolls its terrific mass towards the still more awful scene below. The New-Ycrk channel has also its appropriate beauties and attractions to the traveller; many small islands covered with cedar stand between the main shore and Goat island, round which the foaming surgo dashes with endless rage. One of these islets hangs upon (he brow of the fulls, and produces a small middle sheet Cf ten or fifteen yards wide, standing in mimic majesty between the two gigantic torrents on each side. No adequate idea can he formed from description of this wonder of interior North America. Its pitch in feet, its widtb, velocity, and consequent mass, can be estimated with considerable accuracy ; but the cflect upon the mind can only be produced from actual viow. If the massy walls of rpckj •,r ii )^i i^ ^ R'' 'I ' >, • '! " ■■■'A.. ..'■^' ■ ■(,. ■ 161k NfA6AI(A TAILS; [lET. XIII. and tlie rapid:* above are fxceptcd, iIutc is nodiing ncarNi- a^nni (hut is striking in llic Hccncrjk'. ll is Icfl alone in sim- ple and Muhlinie digiiil^v lo strike (he Noiii \\illi u M'ns'.uion lliat less ol'life ur sense alutie ean ul)lilet'ate» (»u( the nuiniu ot'wLicli no Iangnu{;e ean eonvey. If lowering niouniains and eraggy roeks sui-iotinilid Niagara* I eannot luit tjclieve (hat much of its line elfiet would he lo^t ; as it exists it i» an ima};c whose whole eontoni* is at onie sj; n, t»ne u«i{.'lity ]m iilus of the ^leale.st modern poet; but an oIjj< it compared to wliich, I^iia.aia is as a tower- ing; oak besiile a rosp sluub. II" Lord ilyion Jiad {jiven ifitt'lh.'c- tual existtiicvi lo this grand elfort of a master mind, under the very spray, in view of the emerald verge, a«td willi his son! arous- ed to heaven hy the sounti of the wuteis of Ningara, his iniaye w(»nld not more vividly pourtray this scene, whose traits only «i poet can describe. '• The roar of waters ! — from the headlong height Veli:io<'!e2«'es t!»c wave-worn prcripieej The (all of waters! rapid as llie h^lit, Tlie (lashing mass foams shaking the ahyps ; The hell of waters I where i!oiiy, wrung oui from this Their Phie.L'ethoii, curls round the roeks of jet That gird the gulf around, in jiitiless horror set, And mounts in spray (he skies, and thence again 11 turns ill an unceasMig shower, which round With its uuemptied elotid of gentle rain, Is an eternal A|)ril lo the ground, Makinj; it all one emrrald : — how juofound The gulf and how the giant element From rock lo rock leaps with delirious hound Crushing the elifis, which, downward worn and rent With his (ierce footsteps, yield in chasms a frarful vent To the broad column which rolls on, and shows More like the fountain of an infant sea Torn from llie womb of mountains by the throes Of a new world, than only thus to be LET. XIII.] jriAO AHA FALLS. 1&3 4iil)*ioi'virnt (o Die inipri'Hsiun mude upon t)i(> heart, none is lieui'd except I lie e((*rn;il roar of I he entaruet. 1 uoiiM have hi'eii njnicrd ((• ha>e nan this place in a (enip<8(. The whole lime 1 was there, the weafhei', though wunn, >v:H ollierwi^e Mereue and pleasant. Amid the howling; of (he Idack norlii-west wiar.v to (he fall^. Hut at all times, at all sea- sons, and I tikight »Ay hv all ntiiidH, will this matehless pietiiru h' viewrd with wonder and delight, and reiiiemhered with f»'iliii;;'s of pleasure. M.iay ^^'dly remarkf* are however made respecting the falls: (hri:* pliitii^in;;- into an ahjss of whttdi no one knows the dc'ptli is orse. 'llic wal«'r«» mostly fall upon an inclined pI'.iM^, ronue'>ver which the WiitiMs are iMv<'i|)i(ci?i'd. Canoes and other vessels heing •oat-rii't! to lise verge of (he fall with persons in iheni, glidiiij; P.ir.^ut «)(■ livois wiiicli flow riisliincjlj', \\\>'i\ Diatiy \vi!i(li'i;^s. tluoioli (ho vale: — Lookback! I ,': I whore it comes hke an elrjiiily, A if to swcoj) dowji all tilings in its li-nck, Cii iiining Ihe eye \vith divad, — a matchless cataract, Hor:ilt!y be:mliful ! but on iiio vorgo. From side to si-U?, bcnoalh the giittering morn, An Iris sits, nniiJst the iin"« ritai sujge Like nOPK upav a «lcath-l)4"l, and, unworn Its steady dvcs, nlule all aroiiiid is lorn IJy ibc distracted waters, bcais serene Its brilliant hue wilh all llieir hcnnis unshorn Kcseinblinp, 'mid the torture of the scene, l.ove watchi! j^ madness \\illi unalterable niein." Only uith iiiis c'rscription, can be compared tlinl cA' (be Cba- rybdis by Homer : it cannot be deemed jnesumption to say it has no ollher equal in human lilerature. Let any person of w a: in fancy, ivad these lines in view of Nincoia, in a Hne snnnner morninfr, and while the Iris beajiis upon his eye, bo will exclaim, -' tUk indeed is the lanjjiuige of enraptttred poetry.*' I -.■^r U :'• ['• -l'. . ; It'- v... ,!>■ ^' 1C6 IflAGAHA FALLS. [let. XI if. rapuUy but smoothly (o dcstrncHont is another roinnnee : any vessel uhatcver, wouhl be dashed to splinters by the ra- pids before comiiiig >vilhin half a mile of (he chnlc. Unless it may be from Goat island, whieh I did not sec. the best situation to sec the falls, is from the Tabic Roek,"^ or to my mind more safe r.ni] more pleasant from the lull HUive. Mr. Whitney is now .' : ' , •^?ffl! 1- .1; '';i'f: '!'^'- 'M If Ik in iii.J * Before my return from Pelroit to PutTalo, a fragment of rock on the Canada side, supposed to be the Table Rock, broke and fell. It was not however the Table Rock iliat fell, as the an- nexed extract will explain. "falls of MA6AR.\. " Mr. Salisbury — I have seen it observed in your paper, that the celebrated Table Rock, had precipitated itself into the Niaga- ra river. This is not correct. The i)art that fell did not extend to within 50 yards of the Table Rock; it was about 20 rods in length, and from I to 4 in breadth. This part, the day previous to its falling, was passed over by a large party of visitors. Per- haps it would be proper to state, that since that event, (which de- stroyed the pathway) Mr. Forsyth has constructed a new and safe pathway to the Table Rock." — Buffalo pap. S. t " Goat Island. — This beautiful Island, which divides the Falls of Niagara, seems to have been rent from the American side by some violent convulsion of nature; the strata of rocks, the soil, and the growth of the timber corresponding with thoso upon the main land. " The difiicullies of approach to this island have, in all pro- bability increased with time, and as the fall has receded ; for wo are informed, that it was once a place of frequent resort for the French garrisons in Niagara and Schlosser, and of the Britisii who succeeded them. There are numerous inscriptions upon the trunks of the trees, some of which are obliterated ; the earliest now legible is of the year 1769. The only mode of access in those days, was to drop down the current iVom Schlosfser upon the point of the island, and great care and circumspecjiion were necessary by avoiding the draft of the current, to escape being onrried over tlie t»emendous precipice. But in later times, al- LET. XIII.] Jfl-iGAHA FALtr. 167 Visitors increase annually. Mr. Forsylli, keeper ©r the puMic inn on the Canada shore, has kept a register of the names of persons \»h9 have lodged at his house on their visit to Niagara. The nuitiber of names are considerable, and each succeeding jear the excess becomes greater. In no other situation in the United States can buihlings and oth- CTaccommdations for the use of travellers, be established with more certainty of remuneration. The cause that leads the stranger to tliis spot is not the acquisition of wealth, nor is it iiie debates of a legislative assembly that draws him thither ; but the attractions t!iat aiture him are a combination of many of the most astonishing feai^u'cs of nature, the rich painted landscape, wliose outline was traced bythellAND by wliom the world was framed, and whose strong con- tlioiigli the curiosity of some surmounted the dread of danger,, few wcro liardy enough to advei)ti:rc. "Abridge was built last fall, by the hon. judge Porter, and saticuinc hopes were entcrtaiuc«l that it wouhl have withstood the torrent; hut an unusual collection of ice in the spring occasioned it to be carried away. The perseverance of that cnterprizing gontleman, however, was noi to bo discouraged, and a new bridge has been constructed in a more favorable position, which bids fair to brave the dangers which proved fatal to the first. " The liighest praise is due to Messrs. Pierce & Whitney, tlic contractors, and to Mr. Osboni. the builder, for the judicious lo- cation of the building, and it's remarkable constri:clion. By means of liiis structure, which few wouhl have designed or exe- cuted, Goat island has become the most intereslinj» spot ihf\t fan- •cy can depict ; as it affords the best and most varied views of Ihat stupendous cataract which " enchants ihc world." " The view from Tabic Rock, on the British side, ba> liitherto been much admired; but that spectacle is infinitely surpassed by the grandeur of the views from several points of the icland, which exhibit the majestic fall, and the surrounding scenery in -'nrival- led splemlor. From the same point the eye rnduaces the rapids above, dashing with impetuous fnwiy as if madly hastening to pre- cipitate themselves into the yawning gulf ; the tremendous volume of water sends its spray to the heavens, and the winding of the foaming torre.'it below the precipice ; no imagination can con- ceiv»», no language can describe tlMJA\ildt!ess and subiim'ty of the sr-ciie " — A*iagnra ratriof. iu M; m 3 i * ' -1 ,f«r 3 m i'< i*t- •■:. : ■-»■ ■ 1 ,, 1 / 168 liUEENSTOV. [let. XIII tour lias and will endure lliroiigli the changes of countki^s «en(uries. July SOtht 1 left Mr. Forsytli's and (raced the shores of the strait to Queenston, a distance seven miles along a road, over a roilini; hut not hilly eountry. From the heiglils ahove Queenston, a pnisj>eet opend only second to (hat of (he falls, though of a character totally different. The >vide sweep of the alluvial plain of lake Ontario lies heneath, chequered \\ith meadows and farms; (he deep and rapid 8(rai( issuing in its dark profound from (he shelving roeks ahove, (he two (owns of Queenston and Lewis(on ; and far •on the back ground the ocean-like expanse of lake On- tario, closes the perspective. I( is when s(anding upon (he hrow of these heights, that the fact heconies demonstrative that here once daslied Nia- gara, mingling his fu;iming surge widi (he wave of Ontario. The rocky bed has yielded (o (he ever rolling waters, and the cataract has retired to the deep and distant dell where it now repeats (he thunders of ages, and continues its slow but certain march to Erie. Time was when Niagara did not exist, and time will come when it will cease to be ! But to these mighty revolutions, ihe change of empire is as the bursting bulible on the rippling pool, (o (he overwhelming volume that rolls down the 8(eep of Niagara itself. Since this ca(.iraet fell where Quecns(on now stands, have risen and fallen Assyria, and Persia ; Macedonia, and Momi ; (he flood of northern hai-harians issued for(h from (heir na(ive woods, and in (he storm of savage fury profaned (he (omhs of (he Fahii, and (he Scipio*s, and in the march of (ime (he IKillshed sons of (hose mail elaiii<;i^v piiisucil Hiiii put'iiueii Us siuw and luilsoiiie wav. Hut in soberriL'ss, nu iitan ever did or ever can (race tliiii j^ruund. Miliiout the iiitoxicalion of nithusiasm. 1 re- traced iii^ wa^' back (u Buir.iio, pa^sin;; aluiii; the Cani.du shore as Car as the Terry below Fori Erie. Tiiere ii^, however, no scene which (he traveller visits, that y son:e of (hose events which continue land-marks in historv. The vicfories of our infant navy gained against (he leviathan of the dee{-., (he burning of Washington, and the destructive defeat of a ve(eran army of 10,000 men at New Orleans by less (ban half their number of inilida, are facts imperisiiable as the iiterature of the world. But in no part of the vast theatre of (his memorable war, were (he operations of (he resj>ec- livc armies so sanguinary as on (he Niagara river. Perhaps (o (he nun;ber of men engaged, no baldes autc ever more obstinately contended, or victory more dearly bought, than were those of (^^ueenslon, October 8th, 181k, in which ;^;en. Brock was killed ; that of Chippewa. .July 5lh, 181i>, and (hat of Bridgwater, ,TuIy ^.'ilh, ISli. The latter was indeed one of those desperate conlliets, where the ollieers aud sol- diers of both armies, seemed (o have lost (he feeling of f^e- ry other sentiment except that of victory, (lens. Br«\>n and Scott were wounded, and (Jen Heal., of the Briiish arnty, N I II in a! i't ' . 11.' i ■4: i i70 LATB WA«. [LKT. Mil. tikkcn pi'isoner. ^J'lie ft^llovvln;; fads from G<^n. Biovn'^ nn;n» of I 'is etif^»f^i'i:a-nJ, arc amonj;8t ihe most ; iiij^niH;* lit IiiiM an liiatoiy : o;j (he Aincri(*nii side the *• Iki'iiirri ut' kilK'd, \M)un(l» d anil uussinjjj. ii t!ic. ahove ^.' juficu — killfd, 171 — wounded, 570 — missing, 117 — total, « s:>s." " 'I'he Brifihh oflichjl account of the above action, makes ** tlioiv lo^s as follows, viz : — killed, .Si — wounded, 369-— •< niisitin.'^', lf).'> — piisoners, i'Z — total. 878.'* Faifs leHers, page 224-. If to these blood v battles are s»ipcra«ided the not less ru- inous and {\ of Aip^ust. ? hi.;l a yood ojsportunity of examining the th^ wi rii G of XIII. IKT. XIII.] BUFFALO. 171 ahove ■total. iDiikes 224. I(ss ru- nt Ei'ie, l)»'(Mime the he- mt eon- ivitii (he Ills once in g\M- I to take upon it 8 (l4itS3 of I njjseli' le Cana- JMiks. 7 7— li. 3~j7 {i--2l] 6—32 1— ij;i nninji; of ningtlie rhiic. it doca not appear to mo that ; mole was constructed runnin;; out from above heretofore slated, we gather from the Cleveland Register, of .Nov- 21, which came to hand this morning, the following particulars of fatal disasters : " The schooner Independence, of Sandusky, John IJrooks mas- tor and owner, John ('hambefs seaman, cleared from ihe mouth of Black river, on Saturday the Ulh inst. for Detroit, io.uled with corn, for John S. Reid, es(|. who sent his son Cornelius Reid to assist capt. Crooks, and dispose of t!ie corn. Tlie vessel was cup- sized in a gale — the cargo lost, and every soul en board drowned — the wreck drifted on shore near the mouth of Black river. A wreck of a vessel, bottom upwards, seen olf the mouth of Grand rivei. Schooner Pauline, was driven on shore near the mouth of (irand river and bilged — her crew saved, but her cargo, consisting of salt, lost. Schooner Boxer, lying in the mouth ol Urand river, disniasted, bilged, and a complete wreck — crew saved Scliooner 1 6.^ :1 m i ft ■ '"'V ' 172 OKTU'JIT. [let. XIT. LETTER XIV. ■ '1 ft Delroitf Jiugutl 15, 1818. Dear Sir, On the evening of (lie 2(1 inst. I left Buifalo fur (his eily, in (lie schooner Zephyr, uap(. >ViIeox, and had a ledious pas- sage of eleven da^s, but a( length found myself agreeably rid of (he vessel, and on shore (o-day. Sinee i( is over, 1 do not regret having encounlered contrary \»i|ids in in,y passage, a3 (he circumstance «L./]abled nie (o visit most of Ihc towns along the south border of lake Erie. A gale coinnienced to blow with great violence fi'oni (he IV. W. soon after we left Buffalo creek, and continued to rage all night. The darkness of the night, and (he narrowness of (he mouth of (he harbor we left, prevented our return ; (he course of the wind kept us from sheltering under point Abino, on the Canada shore, and of course left us io the meroy of the storm and waves. 1 have the misfortune to be very subject to sea ^u'krjess, and never did I pass so dread- ful a night, 'i'he short chopping waves of lake Erie give a vessel, during the prevalence of a gale, an unspeakable disagreeable motion ; the nature of its sl.or -s rendei-s it amongst the most dangerous parts of the earth «' i74r nUNKIKK. [l.l.T. XIV «ou(h-wcsl fVom DiinKiik, rcsvclu'S Milliln loss than (hire mil's of llic iiijirj^in ol' J he lake. 'J'lie hills seen IVom (lie )uke »i>(K'ai' (0 rise inueii inoir uhiiipt (fiuu (hrv du in (skM. M heir sloju' tov;i5 (Is (he hike, jHesenfs un iiuiucnsc Tcrcsl chequered \n!li ( ^»I:lpa!•:llive!^ few rsirms. Diinkiili U i\ n!'\v \jil;ij;e on ilie shove of lake Erie. A xcmieirciihir }):\v lies in i'roi;< of the viliji;j;e, foi rned hy (wo cnpetj, disiaiK I'lorn ciU'li olher ubont n mile and a half) vifli u Imr extenilin;;- (Vom ia|)e (oesijx'. over which tliere is seven feet water. A Csseis eiijrahie ol' passinj:; (he har, iind t;o(jd fliieher fi oin east Hoiith-eai^t, hoiith, or sufilh! ietors of this villajjje and its vicinity ; Ihev lia\e e.\[»endv'd eonstjierablo sums in the ereetion of a vharf, a road to I'redoiiia, and other Imiirovcnunts. The site is a de;.d level, which extends back towards (he hills two or three rniles, before any eonsiderabie eminences difi- Inih ti'e niinx/toiiv of iis HiirlUce. 'i'lie soil Is (;om])osed of sutxl siad a lich loai.i, fi)rnun;; an allnvion <»f .'jcreat feriilitv. Titiibj 5\ iunilock, v.irioiis sixcies of oak, elm, linden, \u)\}- lar, (!iror<'eipi»e onlii i< rejuhes I'ne alluvial li:irdei* of lake Krie, vMch it inins two miles aiiove Dnnl.irk bav, I'^rrdonia is •I ft bu'b upon s a( KsrdiMiia* into what is calied llnHowiT flr 1 iko road, ittid lUc iipjUT or (>'liafjni(]ii« roiid. 'I'iiosi^ ro iMn do not aji^aiii uiiiir until within (lir iirrcini'ls of (ii<> (own of Erit*. 'I'lu' st'iilciMcnls I'ullow ^('acrall^ thcso ruads, pav- ticiiiariv tli.* iofiuei- or lake route. I s!»ouI|M'iid«.'til of their a]);)ar''!it liriji^hl, two cirruiiistaiict's coiiihinr (o {srovc that thr;y caaiiot fall much short of I2ii0 (Vet. First, tlic di'itaiiru to wiiirh Iho}' are visihif is at Irast fort^ usiU's. Any oljjret eapahh' ot* hring sreii v.\um thr curve of thtf earth's siirlace lort^y inilerf, must he within a (rille ol* 1100 feet hij^h. The second daiiini to deiuonsiraie the consider.ihle elevation of these hilis, is, that Tro.-ii (iiem Huw water, wljieh enters* the ;^iiiror Mexico Ujiwardsof tw/lvjdt';5!'oesorialm!de distant (Voni its source. Tiie surTace of lake LCric is known to he .'i(;i,r> (ect .'ibove the ocean tides, and allow iiu.;; the dividinjj;' rid^e an el- evation of IIOU feet, w'o.ili! produce KJOl..^ feel as the entire lieif^iit of this rid;^e above the Atlantic ocean. Slojjin.j* very {gradually towards the south, a rapid depression of, as wo Jiavc seen, 1100 (ect takes place on fi.e side of lake Krie. Tlie extreme head waters of Chataiique lake, rises in Iho township of l*o:-tland, within less than three miles of h:!;M !Erie, and is the point of neatest apjicoach of the iWississippi ■waters, to the o».»rij;in of any of the Caiiii'Iian lakes. Canals have been projected to unite (!ie Ohio and SI. Law- rence waters, many points have been mentioned, and amon;^st others by Chatauqin' lake. You will perceive the obstacles that nature has opjiosed to (he completion of such a project, by the enot mous dillerence of level, and (he very sudden de- pression. It is a subject to mo of some surprize, that the Erie chain of hills is, even by many persons of good inl'or^ mation, considered as risinj; but very little above the surface of lake Erie ; but no sooner is the real elevation of Erie m fcl , l.to ul.f ■ i'. . ' ' \ !'1 ■. fJ: *70 BUARIRK. [let. XIV. known, (lian flic conviction muni be irrosistiblo, that a very se- rious rise ntusi be necessary from that lake, to aclniii a ciirrent of such proiliglous length us that of the Allegany, Ohio, and Mi:$.sis8i|)|»i rivers. If indeed lake Kiie was nearly as much elevated as the soniec of Alh'gany river, then would the fall of water in the Niagara strait and St. Lawrence river, be as great in hs» than 300 niilia, as that of the Mississippi and JS tributaries in six times that distance ; the certain eonse- (jiicnce would be thai either the fall of N'iagaia would be 8t>0 or 900 feet, or that the 8t. Lawrence, from its great rapidity, woulil be unnavigHbie. MSiiU g(Mjd roads, and a (biiving interior, Dunkirk must a«lvan(>k, i^ the liivision lint' hi'iwcrn tlic s(a(t*s of IVtinsjIvania ami Oliio. \\f paHHcd I ills jilarc, and also I lie iiioiilii of Aslitubula rivei* ii) (he ni;i;lti, and at noon of llie Hlh, vm nho passed iho mondi of (irand river. Al 1 oVIot-i; I*. M. \\c were be- calmed \\liieli eontinued (wo or three Ihmms. and ^^as follow- ed by a Htroof; head wind, which forced us h:iek into the inoulh of Grand river. The dividing ridge is visible from the lake opposite this place. Grand river is a slreani of some consccpipnce ri>in|^ in Portafje counlv. Hows over the north-west anj;le of '1 rum- hull counlv. assumes a north course» enters Ashtabula count v« throu,i;'h which it winds five and twentj^' miles, turns suddenly westward, enters Geauga county, through which it iU)\\H ti[»wards of twenty miles, falls into lake Kriu in the latter county, after an entire couise of n;ore than seventy itiilcs. It is about seventy yards wide at the mouth, with se^en ftct water on the bar near th« entrance into the lake. 'J he cast hank rises to the height of .30 or 10 feet, un'ording a very handsoaie site tor a village. '1 he haiboris excellent for sueh vessels whoso whole draft of water will admit entrance. A village called Fairpoit, has been laid out on Ihu point l)clow «r east of the mouth of the river. tSome houses are built, two taverns and three stoics have been cstViblibbed, with a warehouse at the hank of the ri\er. I'reparaiitns are making to form whar\es, extending bcu)i;d the bar in such manner as to aObrd u harbor to Nes^i-ls of any draft. If such a wui'k is completed Fairpori will he auiong.it the most nourishing^ villages on the south shore of Jake l^rle. The soil is here on thu liigh ha'tks comiKiscd of sand, peb- ble, and vegetable earth, and no doubt vciy productive, though of that 1 had no other nicans of fdrming a judgment than by the natural growth, as no cleared lanils arc ^ct (o be seen near the village. I '1 V] <^ /a v: ^1^ ^ "^^V y >^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^ ISi^ ^ ^ 1.8 Ml Ui u. ^ u lUUl. 11.25 11.4 m 1.6 — 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation Y /, f/ ^ .^ <^° ^^ /- 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. MS80 (716) 872-4503 A,^^ 1. y ■ 173 -CLEVELAND. {LE' XIV. ui' .,.: siyi' m'-' ,'■■■ ■: •'' Three miles from Faii'port, upon (lie left bunk of Gran^l river, stands (lie very ilourisliin,^ village ol" Painesville, the licliest and most conjrnercial in (he county, containing a num- bei' of stores, (averiis, milip, and oliin machinery ; a post- office, and a fine vooden hridi;'e over Grand river, 'ii'he soil of this nei;>aliO!hood is a rich vegetable mould, resting upon rounded jjchbie or clay. 'I'he land in fact of all the Cou- ucclieut reserve is ferJile, with but pai'tial exceptions. The tiirdicr, hickory, sugar inaplc^ black walnut, elm, oak, and other trees indicative of deep, strong soil. Though but lit- tle cutiivation appears along the lake shore, the interior is I'apidly advancing in settlement. Fairport has all the ap- j>earance of a comr/c'rcial place ; in infancy it must be con- fessed, but yet uidi tueh marks as >vill justify the anticipa- tion of vigorous maturity. Aug. Dill, 1 left Faii'port early in (he morning, >Ylthalight breeze from the N. E. and at 2 o'clock P. M. reached Cleveland, at the month of Cayahoga river. Cleveland, like Fairport, occupies the eastern point be- tween the lake and river, an \ is, after Builalo and Erie, the largest town upon the shores of lake Erie. Similar to all rivers (hat ilow into any of the Canadian lakes, a bar cros- ses its mouth with a depth of 7 feet. Cayahoga river rises in Geauga and Poitage by a number of creeks, »hich unite at the north-west angle of the latter county, llien enters that o'' Cayalioga, and fall;^ into lake Erie at Cleveland. A road > -tding up a svvy high and sfeep bank leads from the barber ( J the h -vn, whicli stands upon the table land. The situa- tion of Cleveland is the most pleasing of any town I have yet seen on lake Erie. ^I'lie general siop? of the ground plan of (he town inclines towards tlie lake, iho!i:.h < levated per- liaps 60 feet above its surface, Cleveland stands higher than Fairport, but l;oth arc subject to the seridus objection of having bajiks abru|;t and difiicult to ascend from the margin of the \vater in the harbor. 'I'hat of Cleveland pro duces, from its inclination towards the lake, a \Qvy pleasani LUT. XIV.] CLEVBLAXn. ±79 and oxlcnsive prospect, wliieli adds no !i((Ic ith a vigorous, hcallhy look, in the gardens and orchards near Cleveland ; and here also appears more eliccts of culture, than ia any part of the hike shore from r>.:.7alo. Cleveland is the seat of juslicc for Cayahoga county, vvitii a eourt-houfjc, bar.I:, prir.liiii.; cincc, a number of stores and taverns, and a post-c.PJcc. It is a posi(ion of considerable consequence, lying in ;t direct line of communication between Pittsburg and Dclrcii, 131 miles fi'oni the fornser ci(y. Du- ring last war. the nicuJh o" Cavahoga was found to be a point of great convc.iijni'e for tiic transportadon of stores, provisions, and buihiing of small vessels for the use of the iirniy and navy. V» by large vessels could not be as well eoii- fctructed here as ut Erie, I am unable to. compichcnd ; the water upon the respeciive bars is equal, whilst the haibor of Erie, from its openness, would be certain»y less defensible than that of Cleveland ; and {!:e comr.iunicadon between ISIichigan TerriSory, and the interior of Ohio, rennsylvania, Kentiicky, and A irg^inia, more direct by the latter than the former port. We left Cleveland in iiii^ evening of the fs!h, with a good north east breeze ; we proceeded up the lake vith so Uiuch rapidity as to be obliged to lie to, in order to have diiy-light to enter Sandusky bay. Oil the morning of the Dili, vwv vessel was under wav at sun-rise ; Cunningham's island atul point Peninsula in view to the west ; the ruain shore of Heb- ron county, in the state of (Miio, to the scusli, and Poii!t-au- Ple, in Canada, to the north ; the hills towards the sources of Huron river to the south-east ; i)ut in i.'\v\y other di/rc- tion, the adjacent shores and islands seei^ied level, and to rise to no great elevation above the water. i » ■i 1 m m i, ; t if.'"' !■■{■■'■ Ht'- > ISO SANDUSKY. [let. XIV. Eetwpcn seven and ciglit A. M. 1 entered Sandusky b»y. •^rhis sht?('t of water is formed bv ilie expansion of Sandushy liver, and a loni^, narrow si rip of land, >»hifli runs from be- tween tiie Uioulh of (liat stream and Portage river. The atrip forms ihe outside of (he bay towards (he lake, and lias received the name of point IVninsula, forms a part of Hu- ron eounty, and has been erected into the township of Dan- bury ; it is about twenty miles lonj:, and from two to three miles wide. From the eas(ern exdenuty of the peninsula, extends a low, narrow point about two miles long, approach- ing within a mile of a similar low, long, narrow bar project- ing from ihc main shore. The space between these bar» is the cn( ranee inio Sandusky bay. The point of the penin- sula is called point Trospect, the one opposite point Sandy. A small round island lies inside of'point Prospect, called Bull island. The points are covered wi(h dwarf trees, and are, though on a larger scale, in every other icspect similar to those which form Sodus bav in lake Ontario. The entrance lies close upon point Sandy^ and like almost all haibors in lake Krie, has seven feet water at the shallow- est purl. Our ship passed Bull island (o the westward and proceeded to the custom house, which is now on the peninsu- la, and kept by a Frenchman of the name of Peter P. Ferry. "Whilst our captain was regulating his alfairs with the cus- tom house ofiicer, I walked forth to examine the adjacent countjy. I found the surface rising from the bay by gradu- al acclivity, to at least 30 feet elevation. Soil a deep black loam, .i'.!:ulxed with sand and pebble ; (imber, black walnut, shag-bark hickory, white oak, elm, linden, ash, and syca- more, with a shrubbery of alder, sumach, and grape vine. On no land of whatever quality did I ever nefore sec so much bhick walnut on a given space. This tree, whose existence is an unerring proof of uncommon fertility, is here the pr«- valent timber, iind is found of enormous size and height. JMost part of the peninsula is yet unsettled though some farms are co.nmeneed, and it is needless (o say, after what li;'- iET. XIV.] S AN DUSK r. 181 I liuve already stateJ of t]ic soil, tliat ihe crops arc very promising, particiiiariy maize or Indian corn. TIjc proper- ty of 8()i] 00 acres, sufiieient for more than one hundred moderate farms. 'J he land i» generally level, some prairie,* (he forest land extremely well (i iibered ; it will no doubt become the seat of a flour- ishit'g settlement. I crossed the bay from the peninsula (o the town of San- dusky or Portland, as it seems (he village bears both names. The bay is here about four miles wide, which breadth it main(ains almost (o its head, except at the narrows about five miles above the viilaga of Sandusky. The shores arc every whce but lid.w raised above the water, in some pla- ces fiat and marshy, soil exuberantly fertile. It is curious to ijce in the heart of (he continent of North America, a country so perfectly alluvial, as that which en- circles the south-west and west part of lake Erie. Except the hill behind theci><«tom house on the peninsula, every oth- er object in Sanv hose phe- nomena I have drawn your adention, eniers the state of Oliio near the dividing line of Asiitabtila iuid Trumbull counties; pursuing a soutii-west direction it intersects Trumbull and Portage diagonally, giving rise on its south-east slope (o 5ieaver river of Ohio, and from iis noriiiwest inclination (low Giand and Cayalioga rivers. From the south- west an- gle of Trumbull county, the dividing ridge assumes a west direction, which it pursues along the nordiern border of Stark, and V/ayno, and more than half of that of Richland county. From this latter part of tlie ridge, flow to tho south the head waters of Muskingum, and to the north, part of that of Cayaboga, and the sources of Rocky, Black, Beaver of lake Ei'ie, Vermillion, and Huron rivers. In Richland county the ridge turns soutli-wcst, which course it maintains through the remainder of the state of Ohio ; dis- charging soutliwardly the waters of Scioto and Miami, and northwardly those of Sandusky and Maumec rivers. This ridge docs not every where appear in the actual form of hills, with intervening vales, but spreads into nn extensive tabic land. It is, however, every where a distinctive land-mark, and forms an important geological feature in the physiogno- my of our country. It appears to rest upon, and to be in great part, except the mere surface, composed of micaceous or limestone schist. The rocks forming siielving acclivities, produce the rapids and falls, which are found in all its rivers. The lowest visible ledge of this vast schistose mass, borders ■i':-:: LET. XIV.] SANnUSKY. iS; the ^rcat lake Eric alluvial plain, wliieli 1 jiavo noticed. The plain has all the features of recent alluvion ; (he sh-eanis are hluj^gish in theii* motions, (heir beds havinj; bin little in- clination 5 the laml alonj.^ the hanks is the hij^hi^st part of iho tji'ound ; (he intervening^ spaces between the rivers arc lo.v and mostly swampy; much of the entire surface is prairie, and cover ^ with an exuberant herba;;e ; the soil, where snfiiciently elevated (or culture, is productive to excess ; and the inhabitants are subject to intennilliny fcveis, dniini^ tho la(ter part of (he snnmier and be.^inninfi; of the fall season. These are tlie attributes of recent aliuvion, from (he fens of Lincolnshire, and Holland ; from the Poniinc marslics to those of the Amazon, Oronoeo, Mississippi, asul the shores of Erie. The extent, and unhealthfulness of the lake Erie alluvion, lias been very greatly overraied. lis greatest positive breadth is at the mouth of Mlaumee, and tlioie it falls siiurt of twenty miles. Followin}>: (he curve of lake Erie, from the mouth of Huron river, in Huron county, to IJrownstown, in the lilichigan Territory, is about (00 miles, antl allowing the alluvion ten miles wide, would produce iCt;0 square inih s or (540,000 acres. I am convinced from all 1 have been able to learn respectin,i; (he country, (hat (he foregoini^ is too large an es(ima(e. Swamps and Hats exist above the Ijwer falls in (he rivers, but are of a nature essentially dis- tinct from the alluvial plains alon?;; the lake shore. The villa.i>;e of Sandusky contains only a few new houses. The bank slopes from t!ie waier ed;;".! a short distance, and then becomes an almost uniform level. The depth of soil is not considerable ; the bank upon which the town is built resis upon a bed i "schistose sandstone, of excellent quality for building and paving. This schistose base no doubt un- derlays the whole adjacent country, extending under the mass of similar rock over which the waters of the vai'ious s(reams arc precipitated in theii* way from (he higher inte- ■M li i ( i ( iior region. FT \ ■ IS^ tliXICE. [let. XIV. I walked IVcn the villapjc of Sandusky to (hat of Venice, lour and n half miles higher up (he hu;^'. QiiiUing the vil- laj;e of Sandusky a very short ilistance, I was m«ro than ever impressed with tlie re^^mhlanee of the surface of the carlh to many places I had seen on the southern waters of the Mississippi. The timher was in great part different from that of Louisiana, hut with the exception of sugar ma- ple considcrahle rcsemhlance exists in the forests of the two countries. I found here upon the Sandusky plain three or four species of hickory, three or four of oak, intermixed M'ith ash, elm, linden, sugar maple, and an underwood of •alder and siitnae. I found Venice situated upon the western shore of a muddy creek, upon a hank much lower and mor^ disadvanlageously situated than that upon which stands the village of Sandusky or Portland ; (hough the former village is at present much larger than t!ie latter. Each have the appearance of towns in the first stage of their existence. In January 1798, I saw the now ilouj'ishing Steuhenville, in the state of Ohio, not more advanced or promising th^n arc now Sandusky and Venice. The great fertility of the lands in tlieir neighhor- liood, and their situation upon one of the best harhors of lake Erie, are propitious circumstances in favor ol their fu- ture prosperity. The western line of the Fire lands and of the surveyed part of the state of Ohio, crosses Sandusky bay about two miles west of Venice, and continuing nc-rth crosses tlie peninsula and leaves fhe township of Danbury to the east. Monday, August 10th, I left Sandusky hay with a breeze from the west, and after clearing the bar had a fine view of tlie peninsula, Cunningham's island, and the southern Bass island. With a light wind upon our quarter we sailed to the north-west, between Cunningham's island ana the peninsula, the channel about three miles wide. I had a \evy fair view of the adjacent shores, and found them composed, as I had formerly heard them represented, of schistose sandstone and J'T.T. XIV. ff the vil- li » re (han ace of the wafers of I difltrent su;;ai' ma- of t!ic two n (Jiree or ntermixed crwood of fa muddy itageouslj Sandusk_j' sent much c of tOMns ^98, I saw I Oliio, not fiisky and neigh l)or- larbors of \ their i'u- ds and of Jusky bay th crosses iry to the I a breeze e view of ern Bass led to the leninsula, fair view as I had itone and K u ■ w*- 'H-^ "*T35^ I-ET. XIV.J PUT-IX-DAY. 1&; ^ o <:• ei'Utiii)ling liuiostono ; (lie* latter frequently Nvhito av eliulk* and appears worr iiitu cliusni» 1)^ the surfol' the luke, and ribing froiu one tu Ua IVet abuve the water. Cunriin^^hain'ti i;* the castcrninoMt and hirgesit of the hike Erie itihindH, is about :i( miles lun^; by one iiudiul vidlU* or covering; perhapv two thousand aeres of laud. Some 8etilementii were formerly made upon this island, but the inhabitants wore obliged by the savages to abandon their farms durin;^ the last war. Passing Cunningham's, the IV.iss islands eamo in view (o the N. \y. about eight or ten miles distant. Approaching (he southern Bass, the first prominent object that is now Heen, is what is ualled Edward's clearings or Tut-in-hay. The west wind prevented me from visiting this noble harbor, decidedly the best in all lake Erie, and dear to the American heart, fi'om the events of last war. It was tVom here, that on the morning of September 10th, ISIS, Commodore Perry led his fleet, to obtain the first naval victory, in squadron, ever obtained by the United States ; and it was into this bay, that on the evening of the same day, the captured Bri- tish fleet was conveyed by its intrepid conquerors. You have 90 often read, and so well remember the detail of this event, that a repetition here would be lost time to us both. I passed the eastern mouth of Put-in-bay at the distance of half a mile ; its form and situation are both admirable. The Bass islands form a group of seven, lying about three miles from part of the Sandusky peninsula, and, as I havo already observed, seven or eight miles north-west of Cun- ningham's island. Put-in-bay, is formed by a curve of tho largest and most southern of the Buss groups, having two entrances, one from the east and the other from the west. The bay is very finely land-locked. The second large island of the group, stretching from east to west across the widest part at half a mile distant, and one of the smaller islands lying opposite each channel. The three main islands do not difier much in extent, though that in which is Put In-bay is tko largest. All arc uninhabited, and covered with a dense O '.('..I ^ 9. . in:. s* ^ rlO % itlUJIf rv.:>^''""' 3 •^ ?j - o H t^; w ._ i —■-'W'* "*fS:^ vt I' ■■■'■'J' rl 136 HEN & CHICKENS. [let. XIV. forest. 1 had no means to determine their s«rea with certain- tj'f but judged the three main islands to average about ono and a half miles long, and half a mile wiiie» and may cover from 2)500 to 3000 acres taken collectively, resting upon a solid mass of schistose rock in great part limestone. From here limestone, for the purpose of making; lime, is carried as far as Detroit and Cleveland. The soil is excellent, and would admit a little settlement of thirty or forty families. But every object of utility to which the Bass islands could be applied, yields to the importance of Put-in-bay. This "tie haven admits entrance and anohorage for vessels of any supposablc d..'aught, safe from all winds. It must become, from its position and depth of water, an object of great na- tional value. No harbor in lake Erie, or in its connecting waters, except in Eiie strait, can in any respect compare "^vith it ; its uccupfition as a naval and commercial station must one day take places The wind continuing lights we passed the Bass island slow- ]y, sailizig north, and when opposite the north-westernmost of the group, could also distinctly see point Fele island on the Canada shore. CI aring the Bass islands, we turned again north-west, but were almost becalmed all the afternoon ; we, however, passed the group of small islands, called the Hen & Chickens, consisting of four, lying in a kind of cres- ceBt> five OS' six miles north-west of the northern Bass. Wc left the Hen & Chickens to the north, and in the evening had the Bass islands to the south-east, the Hen & ^.ickcns north- east, and the eastern Sister island to the west. We were now unon or very near the scene of Perry's battle $ the eve- ning was serene and beautiful j our little bark glided smooth^ ]y and slowly over the waves, w here exaotly five years, less one month before, the United States' flag w as hoisted overtheBri- tish ensign. I do not remember to have ever sp«nt an evening r.t sea with so much pleasure. I literally fell asleep on deck, listening to a sailor repeutrdly singing a rude song, eom- mcq^orative of this event of natiouul glory. The song- ■ 'if t| LBT. XIY. sisteh liiLANlid; 187 stcr had himself been in (he battle, and seemed to feel a strong emotion of national enthusiasm in passing the now peaceful seene, where he saw the humbled pride of the ene- mies of his country. There are three islands extending south-west from the Hen & Chickens, and stretching towards Maumee bay, they are called the eastern, mid< o, and western Sister, though in fact they lie from each other north-east and south-west ; they are all small, neither exceeds twenty or thirty acres. The eastern Sister, the .smallest of the three, being about three acres, on which a considerable part of general Harri- 8on*s army, the same which reconquered Michigan, and de- feated gener?^l Proctor on the Thames, was encamped from the 25th to the 27th September, 1813. It was, in all human probability, for that length of time, the best peopled island that ever existed on our globe. On the afcernoon of the lith, I arrived in the city of De- troit, considerably fatigued, and very willing to enjoy solid land, though so short a time in the vessel. You will hear of me again in a few days, Adieu. t,V,ll f,.^• -««iM^. W V ■ ■ ri ''"., :, J"l, ■ i J. I 188 UBTUOIT. [let. XV events of last war contiibuted (o rendei* both the diy and country objects of great interest to the American people. Like most events that have taken place in tbc world, v here so much passion Mas excited, I am convinced that those in this quarter, and the operations of affairs here, have never been given to the world in all the naked purity of truth. This much may be said, without onco attempting to call in question the veracity of any individual. Much distortion of judgment may exist without a breach of rectitude. It would perliaps be dangerous to offer an opinion in mitigation of the conduct of general Hull, and yet if tlie expressions of those most concerned and best informed on this subject, that is the persons wlio were here before the war, and remained here to its termiaation, deserve any weight, that unfortunate officer was rather incapable tban treacherous, rather borne down by the weiglit of the diflieultics that en^ ironed him ou ull sides, than disposed to sacrifice either tiic interest or honor of a country, in whose service he had grown grey. And yet if these mitigating opinions be founded upon reality, general Hull, if his days were not abridged, the remaining years of his life were doomed to be passed in bitterness and regret, for causes over which he hawn grey. )n reality, remaining rncss and ►'' calami- tiiout the tPd by an fiom the ^er with al mass, It tie of forms a id great fojeign laily he. Uni(ed r*. Tha UwcHing over the wide expanse, from Ohio river to lakes Michigan and Huron. Many years past, when I resided in Louisiana, and when by a freak of folly so common with Spanish officers, the port of New-Orleans was closed upon the interior commerce of the United States ; I well remember that the two great political parties, into which our country was then divided, though discussing warmly the most proper means of procu- ring this commercial key, in one circumstance they were of accord, that was, that the surplus produce of all our states and territories, situated upon the tributary streams of the Mississippi, must find a vent by that great outlet ; and poli- ticians of all parties eoneedcd that the power, whether that of Spain, France, Great Britain, or the United States, which pobscsscd New-Orleans, must, with that city, secure also the political and moral government of the inhabitants of countries, whose vital interests were there concentrated. I have heard and read many reasons given for and against th© Grand Canal of New- York, but the most potent incentive to its completion, that ought to influence those who are employ- ed to carry that vast project into execution, has been gener- rally overlooked. If such a channel of commerce was open, the consequence would be,- not only to secure to the United States the benefits of the produce of its own industry, but also to secure the moral attachment of the inhabitants of some of its remote, and, as matters now stand, most detached parts. Above tiie falls of Niagara, Canadian commerce would also flow with the most open, unobstructed current, and give to the people of the United States an irresistible influence over the widest extent, and most fertile part of Upper Canada. BufiUlo, Detroit, Michilimakinac, and Green bay, would form an immense chain of inter-communicalion, and by Fos; and Ouisconsin rivers, the commercial rivalry of New-York and New Orleans would come in contact in the heart of out oountry. OS, ^Mi' I'M ! ■ ■ , :■■; M Iacc of extensive conimerce» with all the attributes of a seaport ; it forms the uniting link between ft vast interior, inhabited jct/in great part by savages, and the civilized Atlantic border. You here behold those pon> derous packages of articles destined for Indian trade, and vhile viewing those bales of stroud and blankets, I could not avoid calling to recollection the time when I beheld the same objects upon the Ohio, at Pittsburg, AVhecling, Marietta, Cincinnati, and Louisville ; places, where at this time, those rude articles are replaced by objects to satisfy the wants, or gratify the luxury of a polislied people, 'i'he resident society of Detroit, has ail the exterior features of a ilourishing and cultivated community, as much so, equivalent to nunibers, as any city of the United States. 1 particularly remarked tho };reat resemblance between the current of business and mix- ture of {leople here, and at Xatchitoches on Red river, in Louisiana. Each pla'^e occupies the point of contact, be- tween the aboriginal inhabitants of the wilderness, and the civilized people, who are pressing those natives of North America backwards, by the double force of physical and moral weight. In each place, jou behold at one glance the extremes of human improvement, costume, and manners. \ou behold the inhabitants in habiliments that would suit the "walks of New-York, Philadelphia, London or Paris, and you also beliold the hnshy, bare-headed savage, almost in primse- ral nudity. In the same slore-heusc, you see placed upon the same shelf, objects to supply the first and last 'wants of liuntan nature. Tiic oily of Detroit is situated upon the rJght bank of the fitraU of tlie same, which unites lakes Erie and Huron ;* N. lat 42" ib' oG" — AV. long, from Washington city, 5« 36' — or S2" .36* west from London. The strjiit (Detroit) is of very unMiU'al brcaddi, its narrowest part is jmniediaiely op- * Detroit, h the Frficli for Strnit, and litrrally signifies lATir- r'.'Jr ; fimn \^)lich cliuiige of an adjeclivu to a noun, conies the ruuiC of J/etroit. [let. x\ lET. XV.] BliTROIT. 491 » wiUj all k between as«8, and jfJiose j)on- '•Hde, and could not t'le same MaiieUa, »ne, (hose wants, op n< socierv s'iing and a»beis, as ^»'ked (lio and mix- »'iver, in (act, bl- and ({ie «*' Norrh "*eal and 'anee (he uiannpi's. I suit (he and J ou pi'imse- t^ :'^ M ''Si' '\ ■' ' ^.t /J . '. ,Tlf ' , ""^8 t ■ ■. ' . , ( ' m- ',■'■■■ I ^:pear well settled and cultivated. Huron river of lake Erief enters from Michigan Terrilorj, where the lake is so contracted as to render it a suitable point to rommenee the name of Jhe strait, though no perceptible current appears below the bottom of 2'ois Blanc island. A group of small islands encircle the lower end of Gros isle, of which Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Fox, and particularly Bois Blanc, are the principal. The latter is indeed of great, consequence. It is high, dry, and fit for culture, covered \vith timber, soil extremely fertile ; but what renders it a ])articular object of interest, is the circumstance of its com- pletely commanding the main ship channel to Detroit. A much wider expanse of water lies between Bois Blanc and Gros isle, and between Gros isle and the continent of Mi^ *Tiie term Chenal, or v-nere correclly Chernl Ecnrte, signifies literally dispersed or scattered, and is very well .npplieri !o the out- let of rivers; but the same name is given in several instances in Canada to waters flowing into others, therefore very improper. f There are three rivers of this name, two of whicli enter lake Eric, and one Anchor bay in lake St. Claxr. It is extremely per- j>lexing, such repetition of the same names for places so near each other. Ghi ndi mi oti sui .'• II : 'A- XBT. X\\3 AMUERSTBUHG. 195 cliigan Territory, (lian flows bclween Bois Blanc and (lie Csm- ada shore, Iiiit the latter, tlioiigli not above one quarter of a milo wide, is deep enough for llic largest vessel, whilst Ihc otiiers are shailow; and perplexed with small islands and (iunken bars. During last war, a small battery was erected on the lower point of Bois Blanc, which is now deserted, and the island now serves as a camping ground for the savages wiio visit Amherstburg. This inland will be one of the most impor- tant points which the commissioners, under the treatv of Client, will have to deteriuine. At Amherstburg the banks liave gradually risen to fifteen or twenty feet above the water, sloping by very gentle acclivity. The town contains from 250 to oOG houses, mostly of wood, and perhap? twelve hun- dred people. The harbor is excellent, the water continuing deep to very near the shore. Some fine ware-houses line the banks, and with the shipping give a commercial nir to the jilace. The adjacent farms liave an elegant appearance, and follow ''♦ach other without much interval of uncleared land. Fort Maiden, by vvbieli name Amherstburg was formerly known, stands above the ioMn* but is now in ruins, only some dilapidated breasi Morks and barracks remain, to be perhaps never repaired. Gros isle is a fine body of land, eight miles long by a me- dijil width of one and a half miles, contains al>out twelve sections of a mile square, or 7,680 acres of excellent land. Several farms have been opened on this island, but the great- est part of its-surface continues under a I'.eavv forest. From the upper point of Bois Blanc island, the ship ( bannel grad- ually leaves the Canada shore, and passes between Gros and Grand Turkey island, the main channel about two miles wide. Turkey island is about seven miles in length and one mile medial breadth, much of its iurface marshy. The riviere aux Canards or Duck river, falls into the strait ir«« the Canada side, one mile below the lower point of . KM ^^1 i iyi 9TUAIT. ^ET. XV fly ^i..'' Grand Turkey islaiul ^ llic riviere aux Ecorccs or "^ark I'ivor from Micliigar lerritorv, enters suniediing above its iniddle, or two miles above the liigber point of Gros isle ; riviere Koiige or Ilc{? river, falls into the s!rait, also from Tilieliigan I'erritory, four miles above tluj liviere aux Ecor- ces, and one mile above the higher extreiiiil} of Grand Tur- key island. Above ti)e latter island, the strait suddenly' eon- tracts from four to one and a quarter >vide, and continues Lceomlng narrower to the city of Detroit, where its width falls short of a mile. In coming up the strait^ when the woods of Gros isle arc elearcJI, both shores exhibit lines of farm houses, intersper- sed 'ivith orchards and gardens. 'I'hc settlements on the United States side, continue up tho rivieres Eeorces and ]touge, which, together with those along the shore of that strait, present a country in a high stale of culture. The Canada shore is not less improved than that of the United Htates ; farm follows farm upon both banks, which, with the houses, \vind-mill8, and vessels on the strait, afford a fine picture of agricultural and commercial prosperity. 'i'he hanks upon the United States shore, rise fpom the M-atcr less abruptly than those of Canada, except at the spring mill, three miles below the city of Detroit, where the former rises to (he height of twenty o ' thirty feet, appear- ing as a comparative hill as seen from the strait. All the rivers and creeks enter from both sides, through low, swampy land covered with folle avoine, or wild oats. This :u]ua(ie grain, tl augh thus named, is nevertheless essentially (liilerent from either oats or rice ; no vegetable that I have ever seen, has a more beautiful appearance than is exhibited by the immense marshes, covered with the folle avoine ; it is row in blossom, exhaling a peculiarly plea»ing fragrance. Sandwich is a smalltown, though the seat of justice in Essex county, Upper Canada ; it stands upon the banks of the strait, one and a half mile below Detroit. I walked down yesterday to the ferry opposite, and crossed ovc .' t« Sani- OP 'ark ; above its Gros isle ; aUo i'rom a\j X Ecop- irand Tup- Idenly con- (! continues Q its width ros isle arc , intcrsper- icnts on tlie corccs and jore of that Iturc. The ' the United eh, with the iffopd a fine ty. se ffora the tcept at the it, where the feet, appear- lit. Ali the ipough low? I oats. This ss essentially e that I have 1 is exhibited e avoine ; i^ g fragrance. of justice in banks of the walked down BYc ? t« Sand- J.ET. XV.1 DETROIT, f(>5 wich, and retupncd (o this tUy in the evening. I found it a village built principally of wood, composing a single street running parallel to the strait, with about as many stores and taverns as would be found in a place of similar size in (he United Staics. The banks slope gradually from the wafer, l!iough immediately above the town, (h«:y rise abrupt, and appear considerably higher than those opposite, upon wliicli the city of DetiNjit is built. The shores of (he strait on liodi sides are cleared of timber from one nnd a half to tlirco miles from the water, gi^ing the country in the rear of (ho front farm houses a naked appcai'anee. The woods, where not cut down, is excei ively dense, and the timber large. The soil, if any judgment can be formed by the aspect of (he crops, is \evy productive. The bank of (lie sfrair has been vaunted,! believe correctly, for i(s fine orchards ; frsiit trees,- apples, pears, peaches, and plumbs, have a very healiliy ap- pearance. The city of Detroit is exceedingly well situated for a com- . mercial port j the banks rise gently from the water, aiford- ingan easy communication with the store-houses in the rity. Several wharves have been extended to considerable dis- tance into the stream, the largest and best of wliieh was made by the officers t** the United States troops, for (be use of, and in front of the garrison. The streets are lalfl out at right angles to each other, but are all inclining from tiie banks of the strait. The main-street leaves the stiait in i'ront of the garrison, but at the upper end of the city bus t>vo other parallel streets between it and the vliaivcs. 'i'he cross streets are not i>f much consoquence at jMisent, Ir.uiog but few houses built upon tiiem, except near (lie njuin-slrcet. Leaving the lower end of the city, it is diiJicult to know where it terminates, as the farm houses are so closely uni- ted to each other. Above the city, thoii^li the margin of the strait is well cultivated, the farm houses do not stand so compact as they do below. I 1 0(5 .1; UETROIT. [let. XV, 1 have founil .vies, connecting the twoj and on east side of the 15? miles, 55,680 .icres. " To the Wyandots, residing at Solomon's town, IG,COO acres to centre at Big Spring, between Upper Sandusky and Fort Find- lay, and ]66 acres lower ride Mrs. Whitaker's reserve at Lower Sandnskv, reserved for a ferry or crossing place for the Indians. " To the Shaw a noes on the cast side of llie former reserve t » V/apakanetto, 12,800 acres. " To the Shawanoes and Senecas on the west side of Lewis' reserve of 7 miles, 8,960 acres ; all lo be equally divided eas^t and ■west the north half for the Senecas, and the south half for the Shaw- anoes. f,'i m LKT. XV.] MICHIGAN. 11): Kcspcctinj; the present s(a(c of the population of the Ter- ritory of Micliignn, I do not expect to receive much posi- itive inforinutioii, not contained in the census of 1810. Of the position of the settlententH, and the (juantity, quality and ner reserve i t |ffortlic§Iia>T- "To the Seneca Indians atljoitiing soutli of iheir reserve of 1317 on each side Sandusky river, 10,000 acres, " Additional Jinnuities. — To the Wyandots, 500 dollars; Shaw- anoes and Senocas of Lewis' town, 1000 dollars ; Sciiecas on San- dusky river 5oO dollars : Oltawiiys, . ,500 dollurs ; perpetually lo bo paid annually. All, to^etlier with annuities heretofore grant- ed, payable in specie. "tueatvop is 18. " The Puttawattamiescede from the month of Tippecanoe ri\- er np the same to a point that will be 25 miles from the Wabash on a direct line ; thence parallel with the general course of the Wabash to the Vermillion river, dowa the same to the Wabash, thence down the Wabash to the place of beginning (supposed to be 50 or 60 miles,) all their title south of the Wabash, for which they are to receive ^^2,500 in specie, annually forever, to be paid equally at Detroit and Chicago ; also annuities heretofore grant- ed to be paid in specie. "Grants to the following persons, half bloods, James, John, Isaac, Jacob and Abraham Burnet, two sections of land each ; and to llcbecca and Nancy Burnet, one section of land each — half of the same on the lower side of the mouth f Tippecanoe river, ou Wabash, and the other half on Flint riv ,r. " 640 acres to Peerish, a Puttawaltamie chief, ou Flint river, at his residence. " 640 acres to Mary Chattalie, on Wabash, below the mouth of Pin6 river. " The Weas cede their whole interest in Ohio. Indiana and Il- linois — Reservation of 7 miles square, on Wabash, above the mouth of Raccoon creek. The United States to pay them a per- petual annuity of 1 150 dollars, which, added to annuities hereto- fore, makes 3000 dollars annually, all payable in specie. " The Delawares cede all their claims in Indianaon White river. The United States to furnish them lands to settle on west of the Mississippi, on the Arkansas; jj.'iy them for their improvements where they now live in 120 horses, not to exceed 40 dollars in value each j furnish perogues for transportation, provisions fur their journey, permit them to occupy for three years Hereafter their farms on White river, and to pay them a perpetual anni:-. ityof4000 dollars, which, together with anuHilies now existing are payable in specie — Also to furnish them with a blacksmith when they settle west of the 3Iississippi. They reserve two and a :h 19^8 MlollIUAUr [let. xv» |M.,: ■ 1 ■', \ Io(!ali(y ol* ihe cultivatiblo soil* I have procured consiUernble document not h'uiiertu inudu puhlic. Our ordinary maps are deplorably duAcient respecting tiic peninsula of Micliigan, some of llie luosit important rivers are slightly marked or ^vholiy omitted. Before proceeding to give you a detail of the extent, posilion, and respective quality of the soil, I will present you \«ith the result of what I have learned in gen- eral, respecting tho geological structure of tho peninsula, contained between lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair, and Erie, and the straits of Erie and St. Clair. It is must probable that the entire region above the Thou- sand islands to lake Superior, reposes upon a bed of floetz or schistic rock, of various component parts. I have already noticed the phenomena which uamo to my knowledge, along the south and west of lake Erie, and pointed out their efiect upon the structure of the rivers of that tract of country. Beyond the Maumee to lake Huron, all the streams, without exception, which draw their sources from the interior parr, of the peninsula, are precipitated over considerable falls be- fore arriving at their mouths. Tou will perceive by tho notes extracted from Audrain's map,'*^' the materials which compose the rocks, over whose ledges these falls of water are thrown. It appears also that at the distance of twenty half sections of land at First creek,above Old Fort and are to receive 13,320 dollars fur the liquidation of debts owed by them to traders, &c. The Miamiescede their interest to the country east of the Wa- bash, south of a line from Fort Wayne west to the Wabash ; re- serving one tract of 30 miles square ou the Wabash, besides u great many others of less magnitude. The United States to pay them $ 1 5,000 per annum, perpetually, in specie. * I have given this map the name of Audrain in the text, as if was from Mr. Audrain I procured a copy ; but in justice it ought. to be noticed that the map was construcfed by Mr. Greely, the United States' Surveyor in Michigan Territory, and those useful notes were made upon the original map by Mr. Greely, in his owa liand writing. [let. xv» 7 maps are Michigan, marked oi* a detail of soil, 1 vrill acd in gcn- I peninsuUu Clair, and the Thou- lof floelzor ave already ledge, along t their effect of country, ims, without interior part ible falls bc- jeive by th«» eriaU ivbich alls of water CO of twenty I are to receive lem to tradersj astoflhe\^a- VVabash ; re- jsh, besides a States to pay the text, as it justice it ought r. Greely, the. d those useful ely, in his owa lET.. XV.] MICniGAff 19S> OP twenty-five mile.^ from the extreme depreH««iun of (ho val- ley of St. Clair and Erie, that thu tabin hind of Miehignri becomes fiat, and covered wiih innumerable pondit and inter- locking water eouraes. The rivers have their sources upon this extensive flat, and flow south-oust into St. Clair and Erie, and north-west into Michigan, passing over an arablo border of about twcniy-iivc miles wide, which skirt the lakes and straits from Maumcc to Calumet. Some of the interior platiuu is described as good land, but (he face of the coun- try is generally too level, and of euursu subject to immcrsioa iu wet seasons. Thu length of tho rivers which flow from this tabic land is remarkably equal, and their banks composcil of v«ry sim- ilar soil, and covered with timber of correlative speeies. Extensive traots, arc open natural meadows or prairie. From tho foregoing you will perceive that the peninsula of Michigan is a vast cape, projected northwards from tho elevated region, from which flow the Wabash, Maumce, and the custern streams of the Illinois river. In executing the surveys in tho Michigan Territory, a meridian lino has been drawn, commencing on the river Kaisin about five miles above its mouth, and continuing from thence due north seventy-two miles, from whence was drawn another line due east fifty two miles, whieh intersects the head of St. Clair river at Fort Gratiot. I do not know in what manner the surveys were made, but this is their out- line, as they stand represented in the land ofliee in the city of Detroit. Bounded west and north by these lines, and upon ail other sides by St. Clair river, St. Clair lake, Detroit river, and lake Erie. The ancient settlements were formed along the water courses, and continue to be in most part the only establishments yet made in the territory. Tho superficies included in the surveys, does not vary much from 2,500 square miles or 1,000,000 acres. Some part of the United States land in this area has been sold, but the sales did not operate to add much to the population 200 MICUIQA>% £LBT. 3|V. fV'H/; "{fv ;' IC^ f ;i ?ii. il:^-. of (he country. The valuable fractions of sections were in a great share purchased by ihe resident inhabitants, and an- nexed to lands already in their possession. Though the soil is good in general, sonte of it excellent, and i>11 parts well situated for agrieultcre and commerce, some causes have hitherto operated to prevent any serious emigration to the Michigan Territory. For upwards of a month that I have been travelling between this city and Geneva, in the stale of New- York, I have seen hundreds removing to the west, and not one in fifty with an intention to settle in Michigan Terri- tory. By the census of 1810, the inhabitants then weru 4,702, falling short of 5,000. I cannot be led to consider this enumeration correct, there were in all reasonable modes of calculation, more than 6,000 people in this territory at that pcrioU. I cannot consider the present number short ol' 10,000. though since 1810, no increment has been added oi' uonsequence to the mass, except that of natural increase. The city of Detroit contains at least 1,200 people, and it does not include more than one eiglith of the whole body. The lines of settlement extend along theriver Raisin, Hu- ron of lake Erie, Detroit river, riviere aux Ecorces. river Rouge, lake St. Clair, Huron of St. Clair, and St. Clair river. Many other minor streams are also lined with set- tlements. 1 have already observed the great uniformity in the quality of the land. In no country in which I have trav- elled, are there to be seen so much sameness in that, and in- deed in many other respects. This monotony does not, how- ever, extend to the productions of the soil, which are as varied as the climate will admit ; small grain of all kin(l!» tliat can be cultivated north of lat. ^2», can be reared ia abundance. Fruits are remarkably productive. The climale, at least as far north as Fort Gratiot, is as tem- perate as that uf the western parts of the sfate of New-York, and perhaps more healthy. It is conceded that the seasons are much more mild at Detroit than at BufTalo, the dilTer- enec is greater than could bo expected from the small differ- 111 h d. ii lij d| I'i ti '-**• lions were ill siDts, and an- ough the soil »U narts well causes havu ^ration to the th that I have in llie stale of the %vest) and ichigaii TeiTi- its then were ed to considci' isonablo modes liis territory at imher shoi't ol" been added ol' ntural increase. I people, and it whole body, ver Uaisin, Hu- Eeorces. rivei- , and St. Clair 9 lined with set- it unirormityin iichi havetrav- ; in that, and in- y does not, how- I, which are as rain of all kindi» lau be reared ia ivc. iratiot, isasttfui- ile of New-York, that the seasons* itriilo, the diCci- L the small differ- LET. 3tv.] MICIIIGAy. J201 ence in lulitude, less than one degree. The phenomenon may be, and I believe it h produced by the prevalence of westerly winds, which crowd the ice continually into the N. E. angle of lake Kiie. The following notijs I extracted from the map in Mr, Au-. drain's office ; they will aifoid you some knowkdge of parts of otir country hitherto unknown. " Riviere aux Raisins, (Grape river) is a rapid stream of ;ibout 150 miles in length, and generally four chains in breadth. During the time of freshets, large rafts of tiin< her can 'descend the river from the confluence of the Nec- mecon, a considerable branch, about 2k miles from lake Erie. Six miles above the mouth of the river Raisin, its rapidity is such thiit it can only be ascended with light ca- noes ; at the mouth it has a sand bar, which obstructs the entrance of vessels drawing more than two feet w ater. The banks are clothed with heavy oak, hickory, ash; elm, J inden, yellow wood (^Liriodendi'on tidqvfcra) the latter an- iiwering well for boards ; the soil is a black loam." ** Huron of Erie, can be ascended 150 niiies to a portage of about 3 miles, into a stream called the Grand river, en- tering into lake Michigan. The river Huron is about 200 miles in length ; course from the west, and general width four chains 88 yards. Vessels drawing four feet water can enter and ascend four miles. The land is generally hilly on the southern border, liaving good timber and rich soil ; and on the northern bor- der extensive prairies, light sandy soil." « Riviere Rouge is about two chains in width, discharging into the strait of Erie about four miles below the city of De- troit ; it is navigable for vessels drawing IC foet water, four miles from its mouth to the ship yard; thence for craft drawing J feet water, Smiles, it then branches into conside- rable streams, upon which the lands are excellent. The timber on the banks of this river is oak, sugar maple, elni. M m If ''■:4- . .: . ■ \ .u 1 ■ ■ ' '■ , ,- , W- ^■ • ' • ' N-' f. .'I . ■ ■'•f/'i ;■■; fV ••■; ■ |4 V(>^*i - f* ;i02 MICHIGAN. [let. XV. bass uood, flindenj poplar, ClinodemJi'on iulipjferaj and ojik. Tlic soil is a black loam." *< Huron of lake St. Clair, is p;enei'all.v about tbrcc chains (GG ^anls) iti withh, anil navi;;able for boats drawing three •feet water ten miles, to the first branch. 'IMie main bninch interlocks with the northern branches of the river T»ouge. 'i he border of this river is covered wiCii exeellent white oak^ and the soil is equal to any in the territory." These notes were taken by me from the orij^innl mnp, in the surveyor's, Mr. Aaron Grely*s own han«! writing;. I deem tlicm of statistical importance, as being made from actual ol)servation under the authority of the United States i^ovei'nmenf, and as they tend to establish the great general features of the rivers of Michigan Territorj-. It may be observed as a curious geological eoineidencc, that the Michigan peninsula is contrasted with another pro* jection of land, of a similar general form and very nearly equal extent. The Canadian peninusula is, howeverr more insulated than that of Michigan. The former is also dis- tiaguishod from the latter by some other peculiar features. The river Thames (la riviere a la Tranelie) of the French or Eseaasippi of the savages, rises in ycvy near the centre of the Canadian peninsula, runs to the south-west, having also :\!iut!ier parallel and almost equal stream to the Chcnal Eearte, ilo\\i:v; hotb into the eastern side of lake St. Clair. It is remarkable that these two streams are without falli 01* rapids in all their course ; the Thames about one hundred, Mu] (he Chena! Eearte eighty miles in length. This exemp- tion from rapids is the case, however, with all the known r>(j'eains of tliis part of Canada, and proves that its surface Is iviu' h lower than that of the Michigan peninsula. The soil of the former, from all the concurrent accounts I have seen is even still more fertile tiian that of the latter. Mr. SauMiel U. Brown, author of the Western Gazetteer, speaking from personal observation, having been in general Harrison's army when that oflieer pursued general Proctor LET. XV.] MICIIIG.IN. 2Q3 up the TIi«aines, stales that, " The hmd in (Iiis pjvit of tlie «• Upper Province is uneommunly feilile, undadiniiably cal- *« culated fui* farms. On llie livei* there are extensive hot- « toms, then a gentle rise of beautiful limbered land, to « which succeed openings well calculated for wheat.'* [Mr. Urown's pampliletf Troy, 181 i, p. f>5. Smith's Gazetteer of tipper Canada, describing the Thames, observes that, <* It is a fine inland canal, and capa- ** ble of being greatly improved. The lands on its banks ** are extremely fertile." Mr. Bouchette gives a richly coloured, but I am induced to believe a true sketch of this charming country. " Along the northern part of the Niagara district runs a ridge called the Queenstown heights, stretching across the river Niagara, and away eastward into (he state of New- York; the altitude of this range in any part of it, does not exceed 160 yards above the surface of the lake, (Ontario.) This space containing the Newcastle, the Home, and the Nia- gara districts, is watered by a great number of streams, bodi large and small, that greatly contribute to its fertility ; in the latter district is the Welland, formerly called the Chip- pewa, a beautiful river, flowing through a remarkable fertile country for about forty miles, and wholly unolistructcd by falls ; also the Ouse or Grand river, a stream of much great- er magnitude, rising in the interior of the country, towards lake Huron, and after winding a long and picturesque course, falls into lake Erie : across its mouth there is a bar, but always with eight feet water upon it. It is navigable for sjnall vessels fiom the lake many miles upwards, and for boats to a much greater distance. »• The la«d through the whole of the last mentioned dis« U-'mt is uncommonly rich and fertile, with a considerable por^ lion of very flourishing settlcmen ts upon it. From the river Ouse, proceeding along the shore of lake Erie, up to the lake and river St. Clair, the whole space is extremely even, Utilh scarcely a league of it but vhat displays excellent sitn- t} 'ioi MICHIGAN. ft h ? ■ [let. XV. ¥:<: ii ■'*,;■ m w lig- ations for scdknienls, and in spots wlicrc the land is already under lil]:i,^e ; finer crops or uioro (Iiriving lurnis arc not to be met witli in any part of either provinee. ♦< The portion of the western district, lying hetween lake Krie and lake St. Clair, is perphaps the most delightful of all the provinee. '1 he ferJility of (he soil, the richly diver- hificd and Inxiiriant heauties that every where court the view, theahundant variety of excellent fish that teem in the rivers, and (ho profusion of game of dilTerent species (hat enliven (he woods, (li(^ thickets and the meadows, combine to insure a preference Jo this highly favored tract for the istablishnient of new se((lemcn(s. " F'rom (he Onse to laue Si. Clair, the space is occupied by (he 1>ondon and %\ estern dis(ricts ; it is watered by ma- ny small streams falling inio lake Erie, besides (lie river Chenal Ecar(e, and (he cxquisilely pic(uresque river Thames, formerly called the riviere a la Franche. The latter rises far in the interior, about the township of Bland- ibrd, and after pursuing a serpent inc course in a direction nearly sou(h-wes(, discharges itself into lake St. Clair. It is navigahle for vessels full twentv nules from its mouthy and for boats and canoes nearly up (o its source, •but little less (ban one hundred miles. The river Chenal Ecarte runs almost parallel to the Thames, at about ten miles from if, and also falls into Lake 8t. Clair. The portions now dcs- erihed are (hose only (hat are more or less settled upon. In the rear of the townships are large tracts of land stretch- ing far to the mtrthward, covered with immense forests, and lidle known except (o (he Itidinns ; hat it has been ascer- tained (hat (here are many wide spreading exten-j of rich and fertile soil, particularly bordering upon the south-west bank of the Ottawa river. Throjjgh these regions, as yet unexplored hy civilized man, (here are many streams, and some of great size that ilow both into lake Huron and into the Ottawa river but none of (hem have beei. sulHciendy traced (o udmit of being delineated on any map. Timber iit .:3.. u TiET. XV.] MICIHC.VN. 203 almost every variety is found in the greatest profusion ; tlie oak, beech, walnut, (iiickory) nsh, niapUs elm, pine, syca- more, hireli, and many other sorts are of peculiar exeellenee, and of capital dimensions. 'J'lie climate is so peculiarly i.n- lubrious, that epidemic diseases, either amongst men or ca<- tle, are almost unknown; its inlluence upon (he fertiiily of the soil is more grnerally perceptible than it is in Lower Canada, and supposed to be congenial to vegetation in a much superior de.j»;ree. The winters are shorter, and not always niaiked with si:c'h rigor as in the latter ; the dura- tion of the frost is always accompanied with a fine clear sky and a dry atmosphere ; the spring opens, and the resump- tion of agricultural labor takes place from six weeks to two mouths earlier than what it does in the neighborhood of Quebec; the summer heats rarely prevail to excess, and lh<5 autumns are usually very fi-iendly (o the harves(s, and favor- able for securing ail the late crops. In fact, upon so good a soil, and under such a climate, industry and an increase of population are only wanting to render this colony flourishing and It appy." [Bouchcltc'S JRemarks upon Upper CanudUf p. 'i92. The valley in which flow the river Thames and Chenal Ecarte, in Canada, occupies the same reialive part of the peninsula, in which it exists, as does the table land of (hat of Michigan, giving great advantage to the former, in point of soil and climate no particular difference can be per- ceived between the opposing banks of the straits of Erie and St. Chiir. All the Canadian, anJ most of the Michigan pe- ninsula, arc south ot the for(y-fif(h degree of north latitude ; considerable difference in the seasons exists between the northern and southern parts ; spring is much earlier, and autumn moreproiiacted at Detroit, Sandwich, and Amher^t- burg, than at York and Fort Gratiot. Taken as an entire whole, 1 very much doubt if any part of the earth does greatly exceed the St. Lawrence valley, tn the naturiU beneflts which, judiciously cultivated, secures P2 I' "^WF ■>ft r-"i .. • -■■.■; ) t ' M' "■■■ Iff" I'll. M: m!*;' 'v. •»'■ m^- Z'^'-' i206 M£CI11GAX. [let. XV. tlic l)n{)|Hncss, eoiuiurt, and in{1iil;j;cncies olMiuman life. Tlic Kummers are (u ti proverb (lelit;Iiirul» (he \>in(i'rs are cold, >vhen coiiipared M'idi (hose of even our middle states, but a €a;iadian winter if eohl, is uniform to a degree ineonceiva« hie, to most of those Mho are acquainted with the ehangeablc seasons below the forty-second degree of north latitude. In the meaning of the term Canadian winter, 1 do not simply intend those of Canada only ; it applies with equal force to nearly, if not all the countries drained by the St. Lawrence,, of course includes immense tracts comprised within the ter- I'itorial limits of the United States. I am now upon the eve of returning to the city of Xew- Yox'k, of retracing my steps, and of bidding, perhnps an eternal adieu in a few dsiys to a country, where the pain., anxiety, and vicissitudes of travelling, did not prevent me from beholding and admiring the face of nature in her rich- est garb. I have endeavored to convey to the friend of my lieart the impressions 1 have received. You know how far I have succeeded. I now turn ** ft longijig lingering look*' to- wards home, and the dearest associations of life ,* I hope in ]ess than one month to again embrace those friends, whom, amid even the wonders of Niagara, or the storms of Erie I could not forget. I hope to leave this city to-morrow, in the mean lime, Adi(;u, lET. XV f. BUFFALO. '207 LETTER XVI. Jiiiffalo, Jlugust 31, 1818. Bbar Sir, As I informed you in mylasf, I left Detroit on (lie. 23tl inst. and have arrived here yesterday. I took my passage in a lake schooner. The steaiii-hoat AValk-in-lhc- water was iuipatiently expected at Detroit, but did not arrive until after 1 left that city ; I did not see her, but learned at the town of Erie that she was gone up and performed well, though drav/- ing rather too much water to suit entirely the navigation of lake Erie. Slie stranded in about seven feet water on Erie bar. A more fatal fault in the construction of any vessel to be used on lake Erie could not be easily committed, as that of too great draught of water. The harbors are few, narrow, and didicult to enter, and the intermediate shores dangerous in the extreme. With the exception of ihe Nia- gn!'a river below Bird island, Put-in-bay in the southern Bass island, and Detroit river, there exists no harbor in lake Erie that can be safely entered in a swelling sea, with a ves- sel drawing seven feet water. To the number of vessels which are actively employed, I am convinced there are ma- ny more wrecked on lake Erie, than on the coast of the United States, dangerous as is some parts of that coast. Dunkirk is an open harbor, but for suitable vessels can be, except Put- in-bay and Detroit river, most easily entered of any in the lake ; and next to Dunkirk in facility of entrance, are Maumee and Sandusky. The bays are indeed generally more easy of approach than are the rivers. I was much pleased to fmd that the schooner in which I performed my passage, was to take Maumee bay in its course, as that and Erie were the only places of particular importance, along the United States shore of lake Eiie^ which I had trai^isi ted going up. i^ I n 1 ' * in -m" .i*«nj; Yind sprung nj), >\liieh increasing with (he i'i:<»e of (hu iiun, carried us linel.v ulon;j;. 1 had a view, (hon;>h u( a dis (ancC) ul* (!ie nion(h oC (he rivers Huron and It-aisin) (he iiouses oi' (i)t> inhahi(untii »(andin]^ like \Nlii(e spots upon (he disk of (he liorizon. Leaving (ho western Sister a small distance to (he cast, aliout b o'ch)ck J*. M. our little hai U was safelj^ at anchor ;n jMauniee hay. 'I he whole coast from Anihcrstbnrg (o jMaumce is an un- devia(ing ila(. Approaching; Maunice hay, I sought on all sides for some eminence, or some dih(ant range of hills, to break (he monotony of (he perspective, none sucJi appeared ; one dead unybrmily, one narrow line of woods, or (he endless* expanse of water marked the horizon. IMaumce hay is formed wi(h some resemblance (o (hat of Sandusky, though the former is neither so wide or long as the latter. 'J'hc iUaumee river after tumbling over a ledge of rocks near Fort Meigs, gains the level of the great alluvial plain, noticed in my last, over which it njeanders a few niiles, e\p-mds (o two or (hree miles wide, and opens into (he extreme south-west angle of lake Erie. An island in the form of a crescent, about (hree-four(hs of a mile long, lies very nearly mid\>ay between the two ex(erior capes of the bay, of course two channels lead into this harbor. Behind (he crescent island, \essels iind safe shelter and excellent anchorage. I had no means to measure the exact distance from (he island to (he opposing capes, but would judge about three miles, and very neaily a similar distance to a part of the shore to (he east of the mou(h of Maumee river. Like uuist of the harbors of Kric, Maumee has seven feet water on the bars east and west of the crescent Island. Our vessel passid into (he bay (h« west channel, close upon the point of (he island, d anchor- ed in the l/ayjornied by its curve. LET. XVI.] M VUMF.I: :^uy I iHnded upon (he etTsrC))(, and found it a lunfMi/ut sattd bar, alioul one liuiidird and iW'ty yanh \\U\c in its hiosKk'st pact, and eovercd uiiii dxuirl' bnbiicii oC diUViTiit kiiul^t* Xoai'dic middle, and eonsrquenllv \>idosl |ur(, Uic Ivo sidc^ of ilic island ai-e liii^lier than 1Iil> ccnlcr, loiivin^ liio lalirr a pond oi' va((*r, in Nvliicli are grouiii;; rushes, and other aqualiu plants. Mdny \ears pasl 1 vidiessed ijie siiiiie iealurc in the btrnelure of (hf islands between Ne\v-()i- leans and Mobile biiv. I have in laet loiiiid an asloiii.>hin}; iTseniblitnce between the a])pearanee of initeli of the eoasf. of (he 31cxiean g;uif, and the shores 1' lOi ie, fioni Cleveland to Detroit. Cieseent island no doubt, like (he points vhieli enelose Sandusky ba}, has been formed bj the mee(inj;of t wo eiiirenls ; it is now an admirable natnrisl nto!«.> to se- eiire the mouth of 3Jaumee, aner to transact iiis aflairs, and on his retorii left (he bi»v on (he 20(li. AVe ssiiled nearlv esist. having; (he eoast of Maumee (o Handmsk.v ba^ on our ri{^h(, and (he listers and llass islands (o otir left ; eleaiiiis; (hcr narrow y between (he southern Jiass and a er.jje of (he SaudasUv pe- ninsula* we veered (o (he south-east between Cunniiiiihiinrs n island and the eastern extremity of (he peninsula, iiiid held upon (bat course un(il opposi(e (he mouth of SjukIusKv h;\yi, wc then ehangtd (a a li((lc north of east, and ha>in;j; a line steady south-west breeze, we hove to on the LTdi vibotit fieon, opposite the mouth of Ashtabula ri\er. Ifome of oar j>Jts- sengers, beside nsy self, went on shore; liJile is bete to b.; seen; Ashtabula is a small and nnimportaiit river, risinj; about thirty miles from the lake, in (he state oT Chio. giving; name to the norti east county of that state. ^ « ssels of fjvo feet draught of wa^ei* can enter Ashtabula (wo or three miles. Only a couple of farm houses can Le seen jtt i(« mouth, hills appear i ising ahnost fiota the margin of (l.« 21 U Kit 11:;. LET. XV|« * :'■'''■ j-.'v !•■'•; r ' y ' 'X ; ■'■"o V J ?.f : -i lake ; here iiuk'cd is one ol' (lie narrowest paits of «» 7' W. long, from AVashington city. The hank upon wiiich the town va built, rests upon an iinniensc schistose mass of r*oek, surmounted by a stratum of elay, rises in bluft* and broken abruptness to the heigiit of oO or 40 feet, from whence it spreads into a level plain, with no great inclination in any direction. A small drain which traverses the town, has cut a deep r:;vine, which, near the bay, exposes the solid rock. The main street runs at nearly riglit angles to the bay shore, a little !N. E. of tho ravine. So much sameness prevails in all small towns, that little description sullices to those who have se^n but a few of such places. Erie, like almost all other villa;>;es, is composed in great part by one main street built along tlie principal road ; ^jirie has, however, some cross streets, upon which are good substantial buildings. The town has a very neat appearance, many of the houses are elegant, with trees planted in front. I have seen very few places of its extent, which exhibited so much of the air of a commercial depot. It is the seat of ju.'jtiee for Erie county, has a good substantial court-house and its attendant a Jail, many good stores and taverns, blacksmith^s, hattei-'s, shoe-maker's, and taylor's shops. The hay or harbor of Eric is formed by the shore, and a long, narrow^ low, sandy isthmus, which projects from it two miles south-west from where the village now stands. To- wards its termination the isthmus inclines a little towards the main shore, giving an elliptical form to the bay. Tiie bar %^ LFVr. XVI. 9f vliifh h) near the ris at nearly (ho ravine. , that iittlu lew of such eoinposed in leipal roati ; ich are good appearance, ud in front. exhil)itcd so I the seat of court-house nd taverns, shops. [tore, and a from it two lands. To- towards tlic '. TJie bav LET. XVI. ETIIE. 211 runs out from (ho is(hmus some distance above the pointy and has barely 7 feet water. Tlic channel is v»ry windin;^, tiiilil about hair a mile below (he (own, where rlie water derpenn to (w«»nly feet or more, Ko winds, oxfept Miose from (he north-east could aHVet ships at anchor in this bay. am;l tfven from that quarter the swell would be bioken on the bar. On all sides it is effectually land locked. Vbo isdiiiiiiH is not more than four or five f«et above the waler. is overgrown widi cedar trees, and cranberry bushes. In a cove of the isthmus now lie the hulks of Peny*H squadron, and his captured Dri(ish ships. TheTiawrencc and Niagara now lie very quietly beside the J)etroit, Queen Charlotte, and Lady I'rcvost. You are no doubt acquainted with the fact, that the strongest part of (he squadron was prepared a( Erie, which produced this great national vic- tory ; the Lawrence and Niagara were both built here, and were taken over (he bar by a curious contrivance. The cap(ain of the schooner in which 1 came IVou) Detroit, wai» then (1813) a shipwright, and assis^ted to transport these ves- sels into the lake, which, as he described the means and pro- cess to me, were the following: Two large flats or si'ows fifty feet long, ten wide, and eight deep were prepared, laid along side one of the vessels, iiiled with water, and fastened to each other and to the vessel by large beams of hewn tim- ber run through the port holes ; thrn the water pumped from the scows, which, as they became empty, buoyed up the vessel, and the whole machine rendered capable of passing the bar. By good fortune, the British either could not, or they neglected to oppose this operation, and lost the naval superiority on lake Erie. The same fleet wliieli conquered Barclay's squadron, carried general Harrison's army te the city of Detroit, produced the re-conquest of Michigan, and the chastisement on the Thames of the sanguinary and fe- rocious Proctor. A few hourK mabled mc to sec Erie and its environs, and io leave mc at leisure to desire in be again on my way to- :&■ ■ I 212 ALU A NY. [l.BT. xni. vanJs ilulfalo, wUW-U wnn (liu case, a( al»oii( nn hour bcloio Kiiii-M't uf ilic sainr (lii^ »<; airriMl. Aolliin;; MorHi nolice inl('rvi>nii);j;iiii(ii ilio niornin«; oT tlic .lOlh, (Sniiila^y) I |>;Ki(ll}r j'oiiiiil iii^srlt'iil .Ml*. Isaat; rviiilM'*^ (avvrn in niiU'alo. Oiii' ol* Hic lii'sl picet's ol' nrwH \\liicli it«cIiimI inu on my nn-ivaK was. Ilial (he (alilc rock al Aia^^ura had fallen a «lay or I wo iK'Tore. 'I'his wa^ a |M'n|\>('(in;^ HJicirot' bla(t' roi-k on the Canada khhs whiir cniioiis xiniturs vent (o viow the falls. 'I'hu cci'lainl^ of iis !stsihili(>' hud hoen duubti'd fot- mnna (ime pasl« nut uilhoiit fuundalion it appears. Fortti- nait'yil fell whilst no persons were n|)on it, for if 8ueh hud heen the ease, some amiable human hein^-s Mould have been plun|i;ed to swii'l deslruedon. 1 will lie detained lore a few da^s, perhaps three or four. 1 intend to i-eiurn h^' (ho Cher- ry \ allej- route. Yon will hear from mo aj;ain at Albany. Adieu. M' I'M') ■ m .1 a: 1 V t -I i i. LETTER XV ir. DiiAU Siu, AFriiii'a lonp: Journey of twenty-one dajs, 1 arrived here the day before yesterday fioni IJulfalo ', I left that town on tlio 27tli ult. and came by the route of Butavia, Canandaijsiua, (Seneva, Auburn, Cazenovia, Cherry Yaliey, and Seiieneetady. Over this tract as far as Geneva I had been befurc, but from that place to Sehencetady, the inter- I.KT. XVII. j CASAMUl.liLA, ^IJ fticiliate ooiinlry was now (o inc. Milh I'cm'wcil |iJc;isur(» T i'o-viHitf('i'nof Cliii- (a.s at thai (into ahsriil. At \eviM*, in- aceuratc. Viewed in all res^icets, f am persn-.ided that no vilhigc in the Llnited Stales can eor)ipare in the beauty, va-i I'iety, and taste of its ediliees. The qenlie sloj)e oi' the |j;round upon which it is creeted eontrlhalc!) to ^i\e t'nll eiU-et (o the perspeetive. 'J'he main sueet is wide, with pa\ed side walks, and phmted with ti-ces. 3Iany of the houses aiu seated at some eonsiderahh^ (iistance IVom the Htreet, with wide, well shaded siiie walks in front. To mv ev«', this mode of eonstrnetin{^ dwellin,^;s in towns, villaj^es, and e\en in cities, has a very pleasiu;; a|>peuranue. It gives an air of comfort and quiet — that must always eonsiitnic much of the satisfaction we feel, when viewing the dwellings of nr.m. That of Mr. (^ranger, splendid as it is, gains another inter- est, more gratif>ing than the mere admiration of arehileet- nral magnificeneo ; the generous politeness of its o\>ncr, and the friendly deportment of his family. Princely wealth, is liere combined with the warmest feelings of ho|)italily. It is such men, who render the possessnon of the gifts of for- tune in their hamU a public beneiit. 1 left Geneva on the afternoon of the 10th, and proceeded down the outlet of the Seneca lake. A water eoinmunica- lion M illi lake Ontario now exists by this route. At ^Vater- loo. five miles from Geneva, the Seneca outlet is obstructed by falls, or rather rapids, past w hicli locks have been eon- 9.^ 'is..' r ■'' "?! fll« ;■ ■' \ ■■ir 11' ■' ■ \^. m. ' »■-! ^ 214 CAAMNUAIGUA. [let. XVI f. slructcd. lielow (he falls, Uio Seneca outlet runs north-east ten miles, and joins Cayuga outlet at the lower extremity of Cayuga lake. The united stream winds in a northern direc- tion live miles, receives IVom the west the Canandaigua out- let.'^ At the junction of those streams if. is intended to pass with tlie grand canal. The country near the outlet, between Cieneva and Cayuga, is not so uniformly level as I expected to find ; there is, however, no striking objects of much inter- est. The road crosses the outlet of the falls, and proceeds * Facts arc daily transpiring which tend to exhibit the rapid ifnprovement of this part of the state of New-York. The Canandaigua outlet, is like that of Seneca, precipitated over ledges syi rock. The following extract is interesting, but by no means siilKcienlly explicit. !t is much to be desired, that those who write on statistical subjects, would be more particular in de- scribing local objects. It will be seen by referring to my letter from Canandaigua, that a considerable stream is formed by the junction of iMud creek with the outlet of Canandaigua lake, this stream is now rendered of more importance by the removal, or rathe)- obviating an obstruction in its bed, in the township of Galen, Seneca county. FUOM THE WATERLOO GAZETTE. "NEW LOCK NAVIGATION. *•' J/r. Leavenworth — It is with extreme satisfaction, that through the medium of yonr press, I can inform the public, tlmt on the I'Jtii ult. the first heavy laden boat passed the Lock, lately constructed on the Clyde, near the new milling establishment of the Messrs. De Zojig, at the village of Clyde, in the township ol Galen. This valuable improvement completes an excellent Dur- Imm boat navigation, through perhaps the most fertile sections of Seneca and Ontario coimtics, for upwards of forty miles west from the Seneca river ; and creates an eligible scite for all kinds of hydraulic operations, at a point where it has hitherto been con- sidered utterly impracticable to raise a suflicient head of water. " Besides, it is not the least pleasing reflection, that in the course of a very few years, this stream may become a most im- portant fink in the chain of our western inland state navigation. " Injustice to an undertaking of such magnitude and utility, I am prouil to acknowledge the enterprize of the Messrs. De 7jong, advised and directed by the skill of that able architect, antl mill-wrisriit, Mv. Tames Valentine. May success reward their ef- forts. ^ -'A SENECA FAUMER." lET, XVII.^ FALL CREEK. 2k3 thence east to Cayuga briJ^o and village. Tins bridge is, perhaps, the longest in the United Slates, situated at any con- siderable distance IVom the sea board : it exceeds a mile bv a small fraction^ is formed of wood, upon a frame ix;sting upon the bottom of the lake. The outlets of all the chain of lakes, of which Cayuga is one, have great sameness. Cayuga is the longest, and no doubt contains more water than any of the others ^ Seneca approaches nearest to it in magnitude. Fall creek rises in the township of Homer, in Courtland county, flows south into Virgil, turns to the west and enters Dryden, in Tompkins county, receives a large brancii from Loekc, in Cayuga, then assumes a south-west course to Ithaca^ in Ulysses, where it receives a number of other streams, and turning abruptly to the north, su(!denly ex- pands into Cayuga lake. The sources of the Fall creek arc very considerably higher than the lake into which their wa- ^rs are discharged ^^ tiiis is tlic case also^ with all the tribu- * I have inserted the followinjy extract, as it illustrates the structure of the country, and opens to the curious tjaveller a source of instruction and amusenicut. The sceneiy of our country has been too much neglected. Many very interestinjir objects in the best settled parts of the United States, are scarce- ly known beyond the neighbourhood where they exist. " Ithaca, (A*. F.) June 16. « OUR CATARACT. " The numerous and magnificent cataracts in our country, have been themes of wonder and doiiijht, and are considered as a peculiar feature in the pliysiolo},'y of the western part of this slide. Niagara has lonp been viewed as the greatest natural wonder of the world — and for subiiuiily and grandem* is doubt- less u'uri vailed. " The falls of the Genesee, the Cohoes, the current on the Black river, have all been noticed by the traveller and journalist, liut the falls near this village, which next to the Niagara, do not yield in point of subiiinity, beauty, and extent, to any in the stale, are scarcely ktiown out of theii" vicinity. Fall creek, on whicli our falls are situaled, rises in the north east corner of this eounly, and, after a course of twenty miles, empties into the hoad m if i^ '.''•'•■ j'' ■ i"' .1v;!" i'---^''.r". i^ ■'^'.h'A' i;lt' , ^ {'■■ ^ ' vi'f -• iif'-'} ' < IV 'M. I: rv f:^i •ij-- 21C CATCOA. [l^ET. XTII. Uvy wattTs oi* liie oMipr Iakc» (•oir(i,(;;uous to Cayuga. The irlaJivc size «f StMicca and Cayuga lakes is not niaiei'ially «!ifit;i'cnf, ish the richest and most essential of her gifts upon this fa- vored region, salt and gypsum abound. It >vould in fact be a tedious and useless task, to enumerate a small part of the various advantages possessed by the inhabitants of this sin- gular country. I must draw your attention to some facts, I'especting the geology of the region watered by the Seneca and Oswego rivers. The peculiar features of the former stream, will best appear from inspection upon a gocd map. You will perceive that it is formed in most part by the out- Jets which we h'we been noticing, and that its general course is from west to eust, at right angles to these outlets and their parent lakes. The lakes themselves occupy the base of very deep vallies. On this latter circumstance I had, until this period, very erroneous opinions. I had conceived that the spaces between the lakes were plains, or at least very littJc elevated above the surface of the water in the lakes: I now find that so far from being plains, those intervals are elevated to an astonishing height, from which the streams rush with an impetuosity in proportion to their rapid de^ scent. Independent of the long ridges which rise between the lakes, another of more elevation winds between the waters of Susquehanna river, and the streams which flow northward towards lake Ontario. In reality the latter ridge is the spine of tliis country, from which the former diverge like the ribs of an animals. The descent from the parent ridge is very gradual to the southward, but to the northward is abrupt.* How far the peculiar features of the intermediate t?ountry will contribute to facilitate or impede the intended Soe page 136, note upon Internal Improvpmcnts. ■f y 218 AVBURN. [let. XVII. «Cil; tvatcr communication between Susquehanna river and Sene- ca lake, 1 am not prepared to decide. I stopped on the morning of the 11th at Auburn. This village has for many reasons become an object of considera- ble attention. It stands upon the outlel of Owasco lake, in ^he township of Aurelius in Seneca county, upon a bottom or level piece of ground. The village of Anburn is more recent than cither Geneva or Canandaigua, and in point of population, 1 would suppose exceeds the former p1ace.=*<= The country in the vicinity of Auburn seems^ to be well cul- tivated. The houses in the village are many of them well^ and some expensively built ; many good taverns and stores, are interspersed amongst the other buildings. The circumstance which contributes most to render Au- burn an object of attention, is that of its being the site of the second penitentiary erected within the state of Ncw- '^ Juhurn, October 7 . * " The village of Auburn contains 2047 souls — 64 1 males, and 423 females — 466 males, and 443 females, under the age of eight- een — free blacks, 35 males, and 29 females — slaves 8 males, and 2 females. Whole number of families 294. One Presbyterian church, one Episcopal church, and a house of public worship for the Methodists, a court-house, a county clerk's office, and state prison. 211 dwelling'-houses, 12 offices 23 stores, 2 market- houses, 16 groceries, 74 mechanic's shops, 10 mills, 6 stills, and 164 out-houses, making an aggregate of 525 buildings. " Among the 130 labourers on the state prison, 75 are suppos- ed to be transient residents.* " It is wortliy-of remark, that among a population of 2047, two persons /rtiily were confined to their beds. " This village contained, in April, 1817, a population of 1506, increase ih 17 months, 541." The fqregoing census is another instance of the want of pre- cision inlthe most necessary details. I cannot avoid expressing a hoj>e, that as public attention seems now turned upon such sub- jects, that more perspicuity will be used than is now ft-equently the casei the true beijefits of such publications must be lost, ia proportion as the subject-matter is unconnected, or inconclusive. , * We pnfesifme it will be understood, that the state prisonci's arc not number ':fd in our census. XBT. XVII.] SKEX£4TEt%S. 919 ation of 2047, ilation of 1506, York. I went, (ogcUicr with some odicr travellers, to see (his house of punishment, and found it a lari;e oblong build- li^, enclosed within a strong; sione wall. WeAvere conduct- ed over the building by the keejicr. Every necessary atten- tion appears to bo paid to the safeguard and health of the convicts. I have always considered that the be^i lessons that the United States ever gave to the world, was upon the subject of crimes and punishments. Between Auburn and the outlet of Skeneatelcs lake, the country continued to present no very striking changes of scenery, from that between Geneva and Auburn. At the village of Skeneateles, the outlet leaves the lake, and con- tinues to flow northward about fifteen miles, then falls into Seneca river. After crossing the outlet I turned southward up the lake. The Skeneateles is in form similar to those of Seneca and Cayuga, but of much less extent than either of the latter, being fifteen miies in length, with a medial width of less than one mile. The space between Owasco and Skeneateles rises rapidly from each lake, to a ridge of at least four hundred feet high* mostly covered with an trmous forest ; some farms are .seen, but the greatest pari of the surface is yet in woods. East of the Skeneafeles the country is more improved, but also presents an immense aud very much inclined plane, rising gradually from the water. The road winds along this slope, about half way from the lake to the apex of the iiills ; the farms have a curious aspect when viewed either from above or below the road. The soil is good, but very Ktony, and in many places must be inconvenient to cultivate, from the very great steepness of its surface. The timber is composed of hemlock, sugar tree, elm, several species of hickory, and oak. The whole country is well supplied with excellent spring water. The lower half of Skeneateles lake lies in Onondago county, and the higher moity forms the demarkation he- rs arc not number 111 •■(■!• r' fte- V' 220 CAZEiNOVlA. [let. XVII. twccn (Ijc (owusltij) of ScmproDious; in Seneca, and SpaC- Ibnl, in Onondago county. I remained (he night of tlie ll(h neai* the head of Skcnc- atelcs, in SpaflTord, and on Ihe morning of the l:^th set out, crossing the country towards Otiseo lake. No roads art- yet formnd in this part of Onondago except the common country roads. I traversed (he ridge between the Jakes, and found it elevated to an astonishing height* when contrasted with its representation upon a map. Farms ehe- fjuer the hill sides in their steepest parts, and spread along the hottomS) in every direction. The settlements are less frequent, and have the appearance of being much more re- cently established, than those to the northward near the great western turnpike. After clambering the Skeneateles and another very high and steep ridge, I found myself upon the Skeneateles turnpike road about two mijes above Otisco lake. I found the turnpike leading eastward through the south parts of Onondago and Madison counties. The coun- try improved at every step, though continuing hilly and bro- ken. The weather was dark and gloomy. I felt weary, and for the first time I was seriously indisposed since my leaving New-York. I got to my lodgings, near tl'e church of Cazenovia a little before sun-set, having travelled on foot over a very rough country more than thirty miles. S' nt. 13th. I found myself considerably refreshed and I'cnewed my journey eastward. The road passes along the dividing ridge between the head water's of the Chenango branch of Susquehanna, and the Chittinengo river flowing north into the Oneida lake. At Cazenovia church,* the character of the country i% es- * Strangers from the soutliern and western states are not un- frequently embarrassed when travelling in the state of New- York, and to ttie eastward of that state, by the common custom of naming the villages from the townships in which they are situated. This is the case witii Cazenovia. I did not personal- ly visit the villace of that name, but passed tjirough the southern part of the township. Tlic cusloiu of publishing the progressive lET. XVII.] Ill MILTON— B ROOK^I ELO. 22 1 sonriaHy diff'eicnt from vcs(wan] Chrougli which I had been (ravelling Ihe ihrcc preceding da>s. The regular and almost artificial aspect of the hiu^ and lakes from Geneva to Otiscolakc, gradually yielded to a more irregular though iitill broken country. With the excepfion of some valliesj Avhieh I crossed at nearly right angles, I found no level country between Skeneateles and this city. The many flats, lie upon the head waters of the Chenango, but are mere bot- toms between surrounding hills;')*' the soil every where fer* tile, and in many places well improved. Advancing eastward through Hamilton and Brookfield, forming the south-east angle of Madison county, the face of the country becomes extremely hilly, rocky and generally of recefnt settlementr I had travelled through no part of the state of New-York, where the hand of man had made so little change in the primitive rudeness of nature. The road in this quarter crosses the sources of Chenango and Una- dilia rivers ; the latter forming the boundary between the southeastern part of Madison, and the northwestern of Otsc^ population of our new settlements is laudable, but editors of j>ublic prints ought to he careful to procure correct data on that subject. I have in this treatise appended as notes, as many of these enumerations as have met my eye relating to places ujwn, or near the line of my route. « Cazenovia.— The village of Cazenovia, in Madison county, New- York, was first seWled in May 1793.— In 1806, it had 212 inhabitants— in 1810, 440 inhabitants— and it now contains 709 souls.— It has three churches, several manufactories, and all the appendages of a thriving village." * While the above notes were in the hands of my printer, I was told that a valley existed, out of which the waters of the Che- nango flowed south, and those of Oneida north, without any ele- vated intervening ground between the sources of these streams. If this information is correct, it is of great importance, and may ere long lead to Ihe formation of another link m our ulterior communication. A minute and skillful examination of tlie m- terlocutory branches of other streams, with those of tlie Susque- hanna, is really an object of great import in the adjustment of some of the most serious questions in our internal pohcy. i M\ t ^ m ^i^ %22 CUEItRt TlltET. [let. XUf, go county, l^ie road keepini^ so near a dividing lidgc, pass* es, 1 am inclined to believp) the least attractive parts oi' Ot sego, as from every iofurraation I received, the average im- provement in tliis county would very much exceed what -would result from an estimate founded upon the part over Mhich I travelled. Rising one hill after another, I found myself at ahout four miles west of Cherry Valley, where I spent the night, and about two hours before day on the l^th, resumed my journey. During my whole tour, this was the only instance in which I travelled in the night ; the moon shone very clear, and ci- ther from the elevation of the country or the advance of tho season, the air was keen and sharp, with a white frost. I walked on and passed Cherry Valley before day. 1 regretted LET. XUi, lidge, pass- )ai(s oi' Ot verpge sm- xcced what le part over t ahout four anight, and my journey, ice in which lear, p.nd ei- vance of Iho i(c frost. I I regretird lore anxious ight perceive is seated be- and a small bro the name nil, or rather of the sanit; k river. Seen iiy of Cherry ■a nee ; to my und in New- ate; the low ifieej and al- ii settlers of le roads. In d (o consider onvenient and ground or fa- consulted, lley, winding liles before it pcav over Ike LET. XVIl.j HltLS AND MOUNTAINS. 223 verge of the higliest peaks, before I gained the extreme height, and before reaching the opposite slope, the sun had risen over the valley of the Mohawk. I'he morning was remarkably clear, and gave to the perspective all its extent. The richly euliivated vale lay before me, scattered peaks of the Cherry valley mountain extended alpng my right, termi- nated by the blue apex of the Catsbergs, on my left as far as the eye could reach, arose the broken fragments of the chain through which the Mohawk breaks at the Little Falls. Far distant upon the disk of the horizon, arose the elevated hills of Montgomery county, between the Mobawk and Sacoodago rivers. To the eastward towards Schtucctady, was spread an endless variety of hill and dale; fields, meadows, orchards, farm-houses, and copses of wood, varied to i\l most infinity* by the charming irregularity of its features, £ gazed upon this truly expansive prospeet, and pronounced it by far the finest landscape I had ever seen. There was an extent and striking contrast of parts, that rendered the whole a pictur« that must attract the entire attention of every beholder. The southern extremity of Herkimer and the southwest angle of Montgomery are the points where the waters of the Susque- hanna make the nearest approach to those of the Mohawk. In the townships of Litchfield and Columbia, in the south- west angle of Herkimer, the sources of the Unadilla river rise within eight miles of the banks of the Mohawk at the German Flats. In the townships of Columbia and Warren, are also the extreme north sources of t4ie main braUv^h of the Susquehanna river, which rise within less than ten miles of the Mohawk at the Little Falls. The chain of mountains which passes Cherry Valley, and as I have observed forms the Little Falls, leaves Otsego county in the township of Spring- iield, and enters Herkimer county dividing the township of Warren from that of Danube. I have observed in my Emigrant's Guide, page 190, that hills and mountains are not only specifically but generically ^^istinct. It is commonly considered that mountains and hillc T- ^4f J11L:.S ami MOVNTAINS, {LKT. Xt H. l-;>'^'i [ri^.^ III .■ '»• Vr V, • ^l'"i 1 t- • '( / 1 I? , ( 1 •#?' 1 ^ 1 1 are mere relative trruis, but f lie pIiiIosoi)li;)r of sucli nn ujiiii- ion is not founded in fact. In Ihe United States instances arc numerous >Yhere the eliains of liills and mountains pass each other at a great diversity of inclination. I have al- ready pointed out the remarkahlo chain of hills which sepa- rate the waters of St. Lawrenee from those of the Ohio val- ley. You will perceive, that the same ridge Vrhioh winds along the south shore of lake Erie» continues through the state of New-York, by a:i inflected line. This ridge leaves the state of Pennsylvania, in the north-east part of Erie county, and following nearly the general course of lake Erie, and within fi've or six miles of the shore of that lake, winds through Chatauque into Cattaraugus county ; then turn^i south-east about twenty miles, reaches within ten miles of the bank of Allegany river, at the mouth of Little Valley ereck> Turning to the north-east, through the residue of Cattarau- gus, the ridge enters Allegany connty ; upon t^e west border of the latter county it assumes a south-east direction, be- tween the waters of the Genesee and Allegany rivers, enters Pennsylvania in Potter county, through which it curves, and again enters the state of New-York, in the south-west angle of Steuben county. It then pursues a north-west course, again enters Alleg^.ny county, turning by an elliptical curve returns' into Steuben county near Arkport, and following a Dorlhrcast direction enters Ontario county in the township of Springwater, but curves rapidly again into Steuben county, and windiijg through the latter to the south-east, enters Tioga county discharging to the south-west the creeks of the Conhoc- too branch of the Susquehanna, and to the north-east streams flowing into Caniindaigun, Crooked, and Seneca lakes. 'Wind- ing along the northern border of Tioga county, through the townships of Catherine, Cayuta, Danby, and Caroline, at- tains the north-east extremity of the county, and turns to the north, forming the east border of Tompkins, and the south- east of Cayuga, reaches the Iwjad of Skeneateles lake, in the h.\ 3.KT. XVlI.j uivkhs and mountains, 225 ' noi'th-wcst unglc nl* Courlland count)' ; from (he Inltcr pincr f lie ridge assumes a course ^as(-nor(h -east (o (lie villBgc ot* Argosy in Madison county, ^vliere it attains its extreme north point. From Argos the course of the ridge is neurl)' cast, to its intersection with the prolongation of the Catsbcrg^y near the village of Cherry Valley. Uninterrupted by the Catsbergs this remarkable ridge continues down the Mo- hawk river, and is gr;ulually lost between Schenectady and. Albany. The Schoharie river is the only stream which actually crosses the ridge i:i all its length. It is really an object worthy of great attention, the uni- form character of this singular spine south of lake Erie ; Avhore dividing the Mississippi waters from those of St. Lawrence river ; and where separating the numerous brnnch- cs of the Susquehanna from those of the Mohawk, its fea- tures have a striking similitude. Sloping imperceptibly to the south, and falling abruptly to the north, is the peculiar trait in the natural history of this ridge, which will have the greatest iuiluence in the operations of human improvement. It may be observed a'so as not tlic least wonderful trait of this ridge, that it forms a limit between that part of the con- tinent of North America, remarkable for the magnitude and abundance of its lakes, and that part as remarkable ior the almost total want of lakes. The Mohawk river flows along the eastern part of tlic ridge y/e are noticing, at a medium distance, above Schoha- rie river, of from ten to twenty miles. The natural struc- ture of the Mohawk is little less peculiar than the ridge it-^ self. Occupying the narrow vale of two exhausted lakes, this stream rises in the secondary region west of the granit- ic ridges, which form the nucleous of the Allegany moun- tains, with its sources so nearly poised, as to leave the wa- ters at liberty to flow either towards the Hudson or St. Law- rence. Flowing from this table land with a very uniform current^ between perfectly alluvial banks, for thirty- five 1 W! IF m »" !;. w r 4 , ?i •i ■'* '. \ i$ ip' jN i * " *^•:i ■ A; lii--,i •■')■: (-1, . i -f'] 228 IIIVERS AND MOfNTVlXS. [LCr. XVII. iiiilcH, (lie Mohawk iiutU iu flriit coiiMidt'iable obH(rup(ion, lj^ inlersucling tbe Catiibi'igH ut the place now chIIhI Oid liiKlu FuIIm. llci-c ibu stiruin puursuver a ledge of pi-imi- live rockHt and enters a region wliieb, in soil, timber and geological s(rue(ure» diiferit wry essential!}^ IVom the eoun- tvy west oT the Cal^bergs ; the stieaui, however, again Uowh with a wvy equable eurrent about nixfy miles, to the Co- hoes Falls, over which its waters are literally plunged into the Atlantic (ides. You will perceive (hat the elevation ol' Ihe summit level of vhose conie summits have hofinc an aspect, seen from the Hudson river. The center of Greene county is formed by a curve of this chain, out of which flow the sources of (he Schoharie. Viewing a map LCT. XVII.j UIVER8 AND MOUNTAIN!!. 227 cl;vo chain 'I of (liiH part of (he state of New-Yoik, it Mould appear that (he souruen of the Schohuric ought to flow into the Pupae* ton branch of the Delaware river ; but after purHuing u iiorth-W('8t (lireetiou, >vilhin the curve of tlie iitountains, (ho various branches of Schoharie unite in the towjtship of AVindham, and entering Ihe southern angle of Sehohuriu county, pierces the Catsbergs, and assuming a northerly course, crosses Schoharie and part of Montgomery eoun ties, falls into the MohaMk river opposite Tripe*s hill.- The orij^in and course of (he Schoharie river, very re- markably exemplify the Ii((lo inAuenee of the moun- tains of the United Sta(fs upon the direction of the streams. No part of the valley of the Schoharie is less than 286 feet, and i(s sources are 2,800 or GOOD feet above tide water in Hudson river. The country watered by this ^^mall but beautiful river, below its passage through thu Catsbergs, is amongst the most charming regions of the United Sta(ci. I passed through (he townships of Canajo- hario and Charlestown, in Montgomery, and Duanesburg and Princeton, in 'chenectady county, and found the country on both sides of the road well cultivated, and extremely pie. sing to the eye. If any part of (his region deserves a preference in soil, variety of site, and general improvement^ it is that near (he Schoharie river. Entering Schenec(ady county, the country insensibly dete- riorates both in soil and cultivation, and contrary to what might be expected, the approach to Albany is over a tract of land, in great part in a state of nature, covered with a for- est of evergreen trees, growing in a loose, sundy soil. \oi- mun*s Kill rises in Schenectady county, and ilowing south- east falls into the Hudson river below Albany. The country watered by this creek is mostly broken, rocky, and along the stream often precipitous, giving to the traveller a striking contrast to the fine region along the Mohawk. Drenched by a heavy rain I arrived in Albany, Tuesday, Sept. 15th, 131 days from my departure from that city. I m v)&^ 228 ALHANl'. [let. XVII, haTc now, sCrieily speaking, closed my its niitiislrv. tivi. iy:|' DDENDA no. I; ADDENDA NO. I.] BOLCIIETTE HI CANADA. olerance, un- it!) ill the old I auspices of a iness in their its protecting i by instilling to the laws, lie obligations lizens. They eJucation, of ects the high- seminaries of bear a power- le higher and inded and pri- ! various bran- s, whose learn- r. In cor.-.iu- eneral use, but igue, an exam- 5 this language Es. The reve- s of land made 1 contributions I arc, perhaps, cted in a man- a any country of the commu- r Quebec, nine ymen, who arc nt, by the ap- the act of the peculiar to the luence, exempt nd on the other clerical order, f society that i§ *' In the .iinxjstrained exercise of two systems of divine worship so widely diftering in ll.eir tenets, it is a pleasing fact, that the discipline of the two churelies never encounters the smallest oh- struotion from each oilier ; on the contrary, the greatest goo{K will and harjnony is observed to pievail, as yvcjll between th^ pas- tors, as the flocks committed to their charge. " For tlie defence of the two Canndas, a regular military esta- blishment is maintained by the British government, which, in lime of peace, m.^y amount to alx)ut six or seven thousand mqn, including artjllerv, engineers, commissariat, &c. But when we are at war wiiU tJie United States, this force is inerea$ed as the pressure of cireumstances demands; and at this period^ (1815) i may venture to crmpute it, although without official documents to fix the the precise numerical strength, at from twenty-seven to thirty thousand men in both provinces. In aid of the regular troops, u vl in order tliat, under any exigency, the government may be enabled to bring a suflicient force into the field, the low- er province it» apportioned into fifty-two divisions, wherein aU males fi'om fifteen to sixty years of age, arp bound*t)y law to en- roll their names every year, with the captains of cofnpanies ap- pointed for their parish, witi .n the month ;f April. After the enrolment is completed, they are mustered four times in a year, either on Sundays or holidays, whpn they are instructed in as much of the rudiments of militryy exercise as the Occasion will allow; besides these four muster dayS;, they are once in each year, reviewed^ by the commander in chief, or the officer com- manding the division. This is denominated the sedentary mili- 4ia ; and as the average strength of each division go enrolled, may be computed about a thousand, it makes the aggregate amount upwards of 52,000 men.* The incorporated milifia, by an ?ict passed in the provincial parliament on the 19th of JVJay, 1812, is fixed during the war, at two thousand men ; but by virtue of authority vested in the governor, it is at present increased to five battalions, or nearly double the number, which, on the re-es- tablishment of peace with the United Stales, will be reduced to the standard named in the act. This body is chosen by ballof from the unmarried men of the sedentary militia; its term of * In the Lower Province only V«r, ^^■t'''hi'' > ■V .A ^^H|>'''!iy ^^E^M'l ■'',:■ '' ^K': 'i'T ^R|:jj''';'': ^^K-''. ^B'":^r4' ^^^H|t.' ^HT., ''>''■' ^^Ki '^'' ^^Ki< '.J'-'r B'l^^.' H-^,;J; ^^^Hi '-n'^' ^Bf ''1 '^ ' ^Hr' i^uv ^^KU''/)-t.r ^BI-X"., ' ■ ^^Vl' 'V'vL^ ^ '• , }■ - ^pV.^lp"':" ■" 1 . ^■li. '•,;'.'■■ !■ ' ^kI"" i ■ ■ *• ^^Kfi' Hsi't'")'' Hri ■'-"H ■■j'^i''-' K);,** ■..;;• Bi'._-lvi R I'fc B'V'ti'' •'■ 1 ■'■*'|^> ' ' : ; iM' ■ '?■• mp :;.;,v ^rn^'-'V ' j^"'^'- ■■■ -'N* ^u>|,' ■','*■ W7-'".M' iijhi'r i-i , ,-,. ,;,» ■T ;v fl^:> '-x *|l; v/ I'l^'*. ■'■■ ■;) >]h: r- ■■I ;te' ,:,V"'.'' . - ;^'' ' •'' ' .1. ^^' "*' iffl_^'| ' 'i vWr'' '•< m.t\<. ■ ^■'Si'j't'. - 1 ■ ' ■'''■"iv 'l-r^ : '. \ ■ ! ■•' . : i ■ ., ■„ : :\' ■■''ii'- '■■ '. »■■ » K::'!" ■ . m ■ ■ S':* VI UOUCIIETTli 8 CANADA. [addenda no. f. Service is two years. It is also provided that one half of each regiment may be discharged annually, and the vacancies filled up by a fresh ballot ; a plan that will have the good effect of ex- tending gradually a certain degree of military discipline over the greater part of the population capable of bearing arms. The battalions thus formed of single men, renders the military ser- vice less obnoxious to the individual, an4 less expensive to the state, by saving the provision otherwise necessary to be made for >vives and children of militiamen actually embodied. By the same act, the sum of twelve thousand pounds annually is raised for the maintenance of this constitutional force. The incorpo- rated militia is well equipped and in a state of discipline that merits the highest commendations, by which it has been able to brigade with the regular troops during the existing contest, and to take so distinguished a part in some of the actions fought, that it must press upon the consideration of government, a firm reH- ance upon its future exertions, and devotedness in the cause of its country. " In the Upper Province, the same system, with some trifling modification, prevails, but from the more scanty population the force is proportionably much 'ess ; however, the militia of Upper Canada had its full share of the hardships of the war, as well as many opportunities of distinguishing itself in presence of the ene- my ', and the real magnitude of its service may be estimated, when it is considered, that, by availing himself of it, the govern nor general. Sir George Prevost, was enabled with a number of .troops of the line, inadequate according to usual military calcu- lations, not only to repel every attempt of the American com- . manders to invade the British territory, in the years 1813 and .181 4, but to overwhelm the assailants with defeats, that for a long time will leave an indelible stain upon their military reputa- tion." {»2 Geographical Description of the Province of Lower Canada. with remarks upon Upper Canada. — Londonj IB\C* Bij Joseph Bouchette. Paga 15 — 24.] filV DDENDA NO. r. ADDENDA NO. !.] BOIXHCTTE i CANADA- ^% " AMEIIICV possesses a climntc peculiar to itself; the quantity Olid prevalence of heat aiul cold, seems to be governed by laws materially diircriii;"; from tliose that regulate the temperature of «thcr parts of the eartli. It is certain that a person would be innterially led astray, were lie to form an opinion of the tempe- rature of Canada from the analogy of local situation ; it lies, for instance, in the same parallel of latitude as France, but instead of cvhalins: ihe exquisite fiagrance of flowers, and Hpening de- licate fruits, delicious excciUence, as is the ciise iti that country* its surface is covered with accumulated snows for nearly one half of the year, aiid vegetation is suspended for nearly the samd period by continued frost. Yet this circumstande is unattended with so much rigor as any one would be dispol^ed to suspect, and notwithstanding the apparent severity, Canada enjoys a climate thai is congenial to health in an eminent degree, and highit con« duces to fertilize its soil. Heat and cold are certainly to ex- tremes ; the latter lioth for duration and intensity by far the most j>redonnnant, is supposed to derive much of its force, from the fol- lowing ckuse, viz. the land stretches from the St. Lawrence to- wards the north pole, which it approaches much nearer to, and with a less iuiervention of sea, than that on the old continent j it expands also an immense distance to the Westward ; lh.';,>.' ', . *'■ ^ . • ■ ''J ■ 'i ^■ 1 > . Ji-fc, . .1 ! ■ VIM BOLCHEl'TE SlANAOA. [addenda no. I. summer lieal, is usually between 96 and lO'J degrees of Fahren- heit ;* but an atmosphere particularly pure, abates the oppressive fervor felt in other parts at the same point. In winter the mer- cury sometimes sinks to 31 decrees below zero, but this must be considered its very greatest depression, nnd as happening only once or twice in a season, or perhaps not more than thrice in two seasons, and then its continuance rarely exceeds forty-eight hours; but the general range of cold in medium year?, may be estimated from twenty degrees above, to twenty-five degrees be* low zero. The frost which is seldom interruj)ted during the win- ter, is almost always accompanied with a cloudless sky, nnd pure dry air that makes it both pleasant nnd healthy, and considera- bly diminislres the piercing quality it possesses when the atmos- phere is loaded with vapours. At the eastern extremity of the province, from its vicinity to the sea, fogs are brought on by au easterly wind, but to the westward they seldom prevail, and even at Quebec are almost unknown. The snow usually lies on the ground until the latter end of April, when it is melted by the powerful rays of the sun, ratlrer than dissolved by the progress of thaw, the air still continuing pure and frosty; when it has disap- peared, the spring may be said to commence ; and as the ground being protected by so thick a covering during winter, is seldom frozen many inches deep, the powers of vegetation almost imme- diately resume their activity, and bring on the fine sea- son, that would excite in a stranger to the country the ^greatest degree of astonishment. Rain prevails most in the spring and fall of the year,t but is seldom violent or ♦ If the thermometer of Fahrenheit ranges in Canada, in summer, between 96 and 102, the intensity of Canadian heat is greater than in Louisiana ; I never was made acquainted with u higher range of the thermometer in New-Orleans, when proper- ly placed, than 9 1^. + Taken in the sense understood by Mr. Bouchette, when he wrote the above expression, the same observation would apply with equal force to all those parts of North America, included iii the Cajiadas and United States. But, in reality, the rainy season of all these vast regions actually commences about the beginning of November, and continues until the latter end of April. Suow is only water in a state of congelation ; and in fact that element falls from the clouds in all states, between complete fluidity, to that of the most golid ice. It is therefore, unfounded in princi' IDENDA NO. I. ADUEXDA NO. I.] »Oi;CIIETTE*S CANADA. vt of long (hiraUoilin the level j^aits of tlio province. Towards the immiitaiiKs, however, their freqiuMicy, and ilufation are both in- cu'iiseil. liorderiiig on llhc guU' of St. Lam-ence, as the face of l!io soil is ruL'ged and monntainous, the climate somewhat influ- (Miccil thcrchy, participates in its nngenial nature j but advanc> iiig to the westward, it becomes more mild, and encourages the resiUMplion of agricultural labours at a much earlier period, par- ticularly in the western district of the Lower, and all the settled parts of tiKj Upper Province ; at Montreal, for instance, only 79 geographical miles southward^ and 145 miles due west froni t!ie meridian of Quebec, the spritig is reclvioned *o comwicncc from five to six weeks earlier tlwui at tlic latter place. Vegetation is proportionately more luxuriant and vigorous, producing crops of greater increase, by seldom experiencing checks in their early stages from the hoar frost, so- injurious to the rising growth where- over it prevails. In a comparison between the climates of Great J5ritain and the Cfinadas, some advantages result to the latter, be- cause the prevalence of fine clear weather, and a pore atmos- phere greatly exceeds tliat in the former 5 besides, the degree of t^:o!d is prm'ed by actual experiment, not tote proportionate to the indication of the •thermometer j as a corroborating instance, it is remarked, at its utmost severity, which is in the month;? of Janu- ary and Febi'uary, the kboirr of artisans in out-door employments is rarely suspended many days in succession. " Froiw the climate of a country, its soil comes under notice by a sort of natural transition. On making a calculation of the superficial contents of the area, enclosed between the two principal ranges of mountains before spoken of, about 16, 'y-inpoo square acres may be computed, to include the great- er part of the land in the Lower Provirxe yet surveyed, that is capable of being turned to any favorable account in an agricultural point of view. In so gi'eat an extent, undoubt- edly every gradation of <]uality, between very bad and very good is to be found j but it would be attended with some dif- ples of true meteorological .philosophy to call spring and antimiii our rainy seasons. In all places where winter is of: sufficjent length and frigidity to permit considerable accunaulatiqp of snow, the'spring floods in rivers, owe their augmentation, more to the melting of that meteor, than to the rain that fall? during the rise of the waters. R2 Si ■''■r ft B [fe; ;-'•!■ '■s ^ .f ■ '«i m J i •.•■ ' ft mULcnETTE'i rAKADA. I^ADDKNDA RO. f. ficulty, to slate witli tolerable correctness tlie relative proportion of each kind. Sensiule that, in thus generalizing the >vhnlv>, only nn imperfect sketch can he given, it is nty intention lliat asniutU care as possible shall he used to ren(' r tlie sui>ject more clear and familiar; when treating the diiTcrent distiicts and divisions topo- grapiiically. For the present then, A may suffice to say, that, with resi)cct to goodness, the eastern paits are inferior to the western, being of a more irregular and uneven surface, in many places consisting of a light soil, oi' a suudy nature, laid upoti a stratum of perfect sand or gravel, in others it is varied tviih mix- tures of clay, loam, and sometimes a good vegetable mould u)ioo H reddish argillaceous bottom, constituting a medium between t'n«' two extremes; this latter species is rather supposed to exceed tJic inferior classes in quantity, and wiih a motlerate degree of care- ful husbandry will yield the farmer pretty fair returns. In the westeru part of the pi'ovince, although tlie vai ioty is iieavly as l^rcat as in the other, in its nature it is very superior; the sort most esteemed, is a composition ol' fme ri^h loanux^ boili n ytlluw and bluish colour, with a good black, earth, formkn^f u suil, timt iu the coftntry is wipposcd to be endued with the greatest slNire oi fertilizing properties af uny of the natural chjsses; and of tlii^. sort consists the chief portion of land in tlic western division ; ihc j^em^in^ng part is always above mediocrity ; in fact, it may he fairly asserted, that through tiie whole of North Awiei i'^a, and in- deed iu many other countries, it will be difiicult to nu el with 1;ukI more inviting to form new selllcQ^ents upon, or where it i^; i^irca- dy cultivated, capable of being made more generous and {-.voduc- tive, by the introduction of an improved syslen^ of hnsbr.Mdry. Its su])criovHy over the contiguous districts of the United State:? ia ftilly manifest, by tlie readiness with which American familicir in considerable numbers, have for y<;ars j)ast, abandoned the less fertile fields of their nativity,, to settle upon a soil that they are certain will abundantly repay the industry and art bestowed uj)0ii it. Uiidoubtedly ^ic bnvlhen of the U\kcs and peculiar laws wili have had some share in causing these migratioes acioss the bor- ders, into a country where neither would be felt. Eut be this as it may, many farmers thus changing the scene of their labours, have, either by purchase or by lease, obtained extensive estates •^yid endenizened iheruselvc's under the British covcnimcnt; whilst WKSDX no. t' AT»»nXD.V NO. r.j BOLcnKTtE*ii CAMADA. XI others, as cajjer to niijoy llio same advantages, but less honest in their njanucr of ohlaiiiing them, have selected convenient situa- tions among the reserved lands, wherein they have unceremoni- ously donnciliated wilhont license or title ; and even without the ftcknowlodgcnuMit of rent, have continued to cultivate and im- jMovc their favorite si>ots thus chosen.* *' This specie* of tenure certainly ought not to be allowed by the crown, and means sliould undoubtedly be taken to eject such tenants, because their prior occupancy, the irregularity of its be- ing generally unknown, deprives the natural subject of taking the lots upon the terms before recited. It is also desirahic not to permit the pernicious exanjple of such unauthorised possession cX valuable property to communicate its influence, or, indeed, to ex- ist at all. It is niiicli to be wislied, that the system of manage- ment in Lower Canada was as good as the land, ujion which it is exercised ; agricultural riches would then flow in a copious and inexhaustible stream ; for if the natural excellence of soil and goodness of climate, contending against the disadvantages of a very inferior, not to say bad mode of husbandry, be capable of • IIow far a disaflected citizen of the United States, is qualifi- ed to make a good British subject in Canada, I am unable to de- termine. Where Mr. Bouchette is uninfluenced by national or political prejudices, he is a respectable writer ; but when descant- in iiiucli leiU'Tit in V.ug- lund, to lie applied tu it? Tiie ('•')i\adian (ainiir uni'ortiinately, and it is u subject much to be luniented, has hitliciU) bad u» means of acquiiiiig instiuclion, ni the many new and b( neiiciai inethuds, by which modern scien«e bus so greatly a**>i>ted the Ih- bois ol" the husbandman. Unskilled in any olher u\o»lv, be c«..m^ tinues to till bis lields by the same rule Ibal liisi'urel'atberslbllow* cd for many generations, which long liubit and an nnpiulUable partiality engrafted thereon, seeujs lo have endeared tobiui; knowing the naturnl bounty bt bis land, be places bis ^icafe%t n- Jiance upon it, and feels satisfied when be reap»u crop not info lior to that of the year gone by, appaientiy without a wish lo in« crease liis stores by the adoption of untried means. Ajiprdnn- sions of failure and consequent loss, operate more stiojigly tbau disinclination, for a desire to enlarge bis profitj >s full n.s lively ivi him as in other men, vhicbj aided by a genius active in iinitiitiiip^ Avould certainly impel liiin to try bii> success at any i»niovutii)iJ., Jiroductive of corresponding iidvantages, tb.il might be i).ti«)dnc- ed by another. Exhliiple Ks the only stit>mUis reqnired, and rt iy well worth the attention of thttsc to wlom the welfare of the Uii- tish colonics Is confided, and whomu^t be sensil>le of the inipuiC^ ance of this one in particular, to consider of means by which tliiu|!;l'ii/g in t!nj;laiid and his own, I am certain that he ould readily he convinced of its uliliiy, and willing to ailopt a n.etliod so much in favor of his ;\utui»ninl expectations. Ano- ther main ohjecl in farming iuiprovcuuMiis, is, the jmlicitnis ap- plication of the various manures to different soils, in wiiich es- sential particular it must be adnutled the Canadian practice in much in arrear, as it is only williin a few years, anti in the neigh- bourhood of the large towns, that it has in sonje degree been ul- lendt'd to by a few I'aiiners moi'e intel!i^>ent than tlieiv brcllnen ; this neglect, added to l!ie [)ernici(Mis practice ef sowing the .<^an.c ^sort of i;rain year after )ear, upon the same land, without olhcf ni^ans of renovation than letting it lie fallow for a season, must excite w(MiIrtuls are from four to six inches higii, care should be taken to iiave tlicm well weeded, and then no further attention is required until thu season for pulling arrives. Jt remains on the ground ftom twelve to sixteen weeks, and is suflkiently hardy not to re- ceive any injury from night frosts. Flax and flaxseed, as well as hemp, may be produced in Canada fully equal, to say the least of it, to what is obtained from any other country. Dut tliey have [addenda no. is AtXPEXDA XO. I.] b;otciicttk*8 Canada. xcn always been so injudiciously managed aficr pulling, tliat tliciV Muliiral good qualities liave been seriously deteriorated. From whence one miglU deduce, that uidess a very difl'ercnt system be resorted to, no reasonable expectation of profit from growing it ran be formed, and consequently few endeavors will be made lo extend tbe cultivation of these valuable articles. Cut to coujbat such a supppsition, 1 feel Infinite pleasure in being able to make known among my countrymen generally, that the process of sleeping and dew rotting now in practice, whereby the fruits of their labor liave been so seriously i si j tired, niny be entirely su-r perceded, and henceforward the culture of these imporanl pro- ductions may be punsued with an absolute certainty of deriving an ample profit therefrom. However doubtful this assertion may appear to many, it will nevertheless be realised by the use of machines for threshing out the seed, and separating the woody from the fibrous parts, both of hemp and fiax, invented by JMi% Lee, to whom a patent has been granted for hii highly valuable discovery. Ffesn a minute and atlenlivc inspection of this ma- chinery, simple in its construciion lieyond all conception, as well as completely e fleet iial in its performance, and from the occular demonstration of the perfect success of its operation I have had the satisfav^tion to receive from this gentleman at his fiictory, I am warranted in saying with the utmost confidence, that if it be introduced irjto the British North American colonics, the greatest benefits will be aerlv^i, not only by them, but by Circat Britain also.* As it will stimulate the occupiers of land to pursue .his * I have been more minute in making the foregoing and far- ther extracts from Mr. IJo.ichelte's work, from a conviction that any useful innovation, improvement or invention tii?\t can be in- troduced into the Canadian provinces^ can be, with at least as ihuch utility adopted in the contiguous parts of the United Stales. The culture of llax, has since the extensive introduction of cot- ton cloths, declined in the United States : but the benefits of the change, in many places may be justly doubted. Tlie invention of the circular saw, for extracting the seeij^ from the libre of cot- ton, was the epoch of the extension of thai article, and its cheap application to tbe wants of mankind. How fiir human genius may obviate the expence to which tlie culture of fiax has hitherto been subject it is impossible to determine ; if the statements of -Mr. Bouchette arc even partially correct, much is already done on • *M XV 111 BOUCIlEl'tE's CANAtiA. [addknda .to. t. 3'* t • if", 'A 1 ■' ' branch of husbniidry more thhn any prcmhinis oflered, or mcarii resorted to by govenimenl, woukl be nble to do under the old me- thod. By the use of this invention, the necessity oH steeping and dew rotting being avoided, the farmer having pulled his crop, has nothing to do but stack it, when sulliciently dry for that purpose, tind let it remain until convenient opportunities occur of bringing it into a marketable state, which may now be performed in a very few houi's. The superiority of this mode of preparation is very great, and the advantages obtained by it in equal proportion. All thfe labour and atteiidant expence of steeping, spreading and drying ; rts well as the losses incident to these operations, is ^vholly saved^ The produce of fibre is fully one-third greater by this than by former methods; while the fibre itself preserves the whole of its natural sti-ength unimpaired by any destructive process. In cleaning flax the whole of the seed is preserved, and some parts of the plant that by steeping are entirely destroyed, are now saved to be turned to a very profitable account. The chafT, for instaHce, is an excellent food for horses, cows, sheep, &c. and the woody part when separated from the fibre, is a strong manufe, particularly good as a top dressing for wheat; both df these have hitherto been wasted. The mode of using the machines is so easy tti to be worked by women or even children; they may,*without inconvenience to a family, be fixed in cottages, or the out-housed of any description, so as to furnish a constant in-door employ- ment through the winter months. Hemp or flax preprred by this invention is found, from experiment, to be greatly superior in strength to any other. The most impartial criterion, namely, that of suspending a weight by a line made of different sorts, of the same length, thickness and weight, has been had recourse to, when the one prepared in this manner has supported more than double the weight of the other. " From many conservations I iiavc had with Mr. Lee, on the subject of his patent, besides frequent proofs of its efficacy, I (bel the strongest conviction that the value of his invention will $oon be appreciated when it is introduced into Canada. With that subject, and serves to shew how slowly the most val uable discoveriqs find their wav Into use. 4 m [AliDKNDA ?fO. Jf, ACDENto.V NO. i.] bOLXllETTL's CAXAEiA. XI \ such an impression on my mind, I am ]icrsiia(U:(]; I ^ddU be aid-^ ing to increase both tlic interest and cornrort of my fellow-coun- trymen, by promoting, as i'ar as lies in my power, the general Hse of so simple and so well contrived an apparatus. To estab- lish, in some degree, the reality of wlmt has been adduced, t will insert the following estimate of the expences and produce of one acre of flax, which I have been repeatedly assured by llm patentee is the result of in.iny years pr.aclical experience as a grower, and formed u()on such a calculation as ttny fair averago crop, properly attended to, will not fail of realising always, tmii most freqeutly somewhat exceed it. d. 1 EXPENSE PER ACRE. £ s. Rent of land, - - - 5 00 oo Ploughing and harrowing, - - I 10 00 Sowing, harrowing, and rolling, * 7 05 Weeding by hand, - - ■» 15 lo Pulling and setting up, - - I 00 00 Three bushels of seed, - - 11106 Cartage and stacking, - - - 1 00 00 Threshing out the seed, and cleaning the flax fltformarket. - - - 8 10 00 $ ds. £\9 14 00 PRODUCE PER ACRE. 10 cwt. at 60 sliilUngs per cwt. ? bushels of seed at los. per bushel, Chafl; . . - . Manure, . - - Ex pence, Proflt,* 22 22 6 66 I hG 3 22 4 44 7 00 4 44 37 77 .^87 51 £ s. iL 50 00 00 - 4 10 00 1 11 06 S 00 00 133 33 20 00 7 00 8 88 £i^ 01 06 169 21 £\9 14 00 87 51 ^'18 07 06 $81 70 e most \'al ustble * I have reduced this estimate to Federal money at an allow- ance of 4s. 6d. to the dollar. If the data are drawn from correct sources, the benefits ©f cultivating flax amount to a very seduc- tive aggregate. The valup of cotton, to the cultivator, does not B.!^?^-'' SI,,' % |C,> V^^!^'. :i:v: ^■^ ".-^ft fer^' f-:i ■'■■ .■^: '• 1 ■-■ 0' V ■': ■■■* ■'' . ' » *-^' BOUClIETTfi's CANADA. [ADDENDA XO. |. " This account is made out from the ratio of agriculttiral cx- pences iti England. Some of its items are undoubtedly diirerent from what Uioy would be in the colonies; but the excess in one would be balanced, or nearly so, l)y the reduction of another ; and as the prices allowed foi the produce are such as the ordina- ry state of the market will always aflbrd, and after making a reasonable allowance for tythes, freight, and other incidental ex- pences, the general result is sufficic-t to induce specvdation with tolerable fair prospects of success. It must be also taken into t'onsideralion, that the expense of the machinery is very modcr rate ; nor should it escape r.gtice that a steady demand will bp (bund in England, both for flax and seed alfairpric.es.* ?iiuch exceed the b.-^.lanco here shewn in favor of flax ; and if the ordinary expenccsof the respective places \yhere these two vege- tables e:i!i Ix; reared, are taken iiilo acroimt, it would admit doubt which of the two j)rn(lucts promise the largest reward to human labor. Rent of land enters largely into the above com- putation, and though the price of land in the U.S. lyiust be also cslinialod, the interest of that price wciuld seldom (imount to inore t'lan one dollar per acre, even with the addition of clearing and fencing; consequently the profit to the citizen of the U. S, would be greater, than to the Etiglish farmer, by the enormous difterenco of more than <-j!20 j)er acre. * Flax, is now cultivated in many of the njost thickly popu- lated parts of Europe, in places, whert; from the number of peo- ple and scarcity of land upqn which to rear vegetables and ani- mals for food, llax wotdd cease to be cultivated could the inhabi- tants receive in commerce, that nmterial at a moderate price. I^ is only since the introduction of the saw-wheels for cleaning cotton from the seed, that the rtc of that excellent vegetable \yool has liecome so prevalent. Tlie plough ifseli', does not pro- duce a greater comparative abridgment of labour, than does the saw-wheels. Four horses, two men, iiud one boy will cleanse, ])acl;, anil enclose in bales per day at least six Iiundred pounds of clean cotton, with a common cylinder of fifty saws ; in the an- cient ipode of extracting the seed by hand, four pounds of clean cotton was an excessive quantity to be cleaned in one day by one person. If the value of the machinery and atte;)dance are as- sumed at an equivalent often full grown workmen, there remains n difference of fifteen to orie in favor of the use pf the saw xva- chinery in cleansing cotton. It is very probable that flax aud liemp admit a rapid transition from the crudq plant to use, in an equal ratip. ff"."!!''? m ADDENDA XO. f ffricultiir.'il c\- itcdfy dirreieiit excess ill one >n of anolhcr ; as the onliiia- after making m incidental ex- iccvdalion willi also lalvon into ' is verv njodiv demand will bp •ices.* lax ; and if llie these two vepc- it would admit irgcsl reward to the above coni- S. ir.ust be nl«> Jam pmouut to itiou of clearing M^n of tlie U. K, y tbc enormous t lliickly popu- niiniberof peo- itabies and nni- uld the inbabi- inodcrate price, els for cleaning oilent vegetable r, does not pro- tban does the ly will cleanse, ndred pounds of ws ; in the an- (ounds of clean one day by one jiidance are as- 1, there remains pf the saw pia- e lliat flax and nt to use, in ati ADDENDA NO. X^ BOTJCIIETTk's CANADA. XXt " With respect to Iiemp, it can never be doul)ted but what his majesty's gov.ernoiient will be again ready to leud every support and encQiwagement to the production of an article in our own dominions, i.hai w« have long been forced to purchase from strangers ; wituch cultivation meeting with success, in a few years may render our country wholly independent of tlue uortii of Eu- rope, for its supply, or at any rate lit)erate it from the apprehen- sion of ever -being pirt to serious inconvenience by any change of political sentiments in sovereigns. The welfare of my native province and its pa«ent state, has ever been with me Ibe strong- «st inoetitive to exertion; and a ray of hope thai I may be an bumble instrument towards promoting a pursuit which would re- dound to the advantage of both, ha.th occasioned me to enter more largely into this subject than I at first intended. If n^y e^ pectations are 4^^oo sanguine to be borne out by the opinions of persons j^nore cnliglrtened thereon than I can pretend to be, I would much rather they would be attributed to an erroneous judgment, than 9- willingness to commit myself to the chance of nnsleading .a single individual, by h^a^rdiqg any ungu,arded or Vi\foimdeU repiresentations. <* To ascertain, iu tbc seaJe of importance, to what degree the North Araerioan colonies rise, their present value, and now mucit tliat value is capable c*' being inci-eased, it is necessary to take a view of their commercial concerns, in order to lying tlieir re- sources fairly before us. In attempting to introduce this subject, I feel no small degree of diffidence, from the reflection that it is one much out of the line of my professional pursuits, in the dis- cussion of which erroneous opinions are very liable tp intrude, and that by tneddlinjj with it I may be blam,ed by many for the imperfect pcrforjiiance. My object is to attr;act to this point tlie attention of men well informed on the intricate questions of mert i fU7-. .Si. « . m^ .^^ i'.^it^' ' i' * , ; .' -J >dLU' pOUChiS Tlii 8 CANADA. [addenda no I, f).iay, at no remote period, place jt in ti more clear and palpable stale^ rather than to promote decision by any obsefvplions of my own. The extent of my endeavors will be limited to conveying some general ideas of tlic capabilities possessed by tli^sc provinf^cs, of rising; into commercial greatness, jf ^heir intercjls be attended to and protected. The situfition of both Upper and l^ower Canada, are replete >yjth conveniences for trade. The great extent and many ports of file St. Lawrence accessible to ships of considera* ble |)iirthpn ; its inland navigation even to the extremity of the lakes; the nnmerous rivers and streams which fall into it) by whiph produce of all kinds may be conveyed from the mpst dis- tant scttljemcnts to Quebec/ or other places Qi shipment, pjiei( have mi* >'y Iranscribed this gentleman's speculations on Ca- nadian CO . , .i-w because 1 am aware that his observations con-; c^rn the ini 3*tani^ of the contiguous states and territprips of t{]Q United States, if pi: > ble pyen more than the pprsons to whom his words are addressed* VVith the single ej{ception of its freez- ing in winter, the St. Lawrence does certainly possess, in plimate, soil, productions natural and artificial, an'4 in present culture, resources far beyond wliat the people of the United States have any adequate conception. In t]ip revolutions of powei, first im- pressions are terrible weapons; in the changes of commprfie, pre- vious establishments are rocks of tidfijnttnt. If the rich and hour- ly increasing products of the St. Lawrpnce valley once flow to Montreal, to that city will they flow, maugre all that legal prohi- bition, or even tlie suggestions of private convenience can op- pose to the current- Though our independence politically, is se- cured beyond the reach of British rivalry, it is the only instance where we are independent of that active ^nd insidjous govern- ment. Unfortunately we have citizens so piurally dependant, as to induce them to expend the frufts of their talents to prevent our entire emanpipation* ♦ This is only correct in its fidl extent bplow the Falls of Nia- gara; that cataract forniing a formidable interruption to the na- vigation of the waters of the St. Lawrepce. Indeed the ship conveyance in that river and its connecting Ifikes are naturally divided into foiHr sections, separated by irremovable inipediments : first section, from Montreal downwards to the gulf ; second, froni Niagara to Ogdensburg ; ships might descend below the latter village about five miles, to the head of the Grand Gallop Island and Rapids, but no incentive does now, or probably ever will ex- ist, to induce owners of vessels to f^U below the mouth of the Oswegatchic. The third section includes lakes Eric, Huron, Mi- chigan, and the.mouths of their confluents, between the Fallsof Jr«.f ADDENDA NO I, xxlii A^tfKSDA NO. jl.J 30UpIlS TTIp's jQANADA. jjfreatcr facilities to nicrcaiijjlc speculsitioua limn perhaps any other couutry can olfer. 'jThis i ivtr is thp Qj^ly channel by which tlio con^modilics of the^e tjyo proyincefj fnid their way to distant lotnitries, and is jjlsp by fur the most natural, as well as njost ca- .sily OAuilahle egrer^s for sucb producliqus of U^ djstrict^ of th|a United Slates that l^e c.ontiguous lo its southern bank, as they aie al^lc to furnish beyond theifown coijsumption. Prohibitory law^ 04 the AnicricJin Seuale, In^ve, indeed, of late been pass(,il to |aar its subjects from exportation by ihi.s rqi^te j bu^ they hft.vj; not obta/ncd so much allei^tion as it vvps jijiagined they .would.l* A. very l^rgc tract qf fertile country oil ihqir side of the border, fs thicfcly settled and in high cultivation ; the industry of its in- habitants alwayj^ insures a large di^po^abl^ s^ock of the fruits of their labors, which the vigilance a^id invention of a speq^lativc disposition wil^ jiot fail to discovjifr means of ti'anslijrring to thjC rie^diest nnirktjt, in dijgpile of enactments Jhgt »r lo l,c,9S disa- grceabid; thai^ dij^advantageous. By fostering th. ir rcourse, Ca/iada woyld alwayg secure a Vast ;^dditi(^r^ o^ ^rtiru s of the iirst necessity; in aid of its own surplus produce, to nieet a gr^aC increase of its export trade, were that trade relieved by the Bri- tish govgrninent froin soine of the impedimentr. thrown in its \yay by existing regulations, that are highly f^vo.. .iile to Americaj; •commerce. ^^ The priucipal exports i'yofjn the Canadas, consist of new sliip^, ^ak and pin,c timber, deals, insists and bow^spritS; spar,s of all de- uominalions, slri.ves, pot and pearl ashes, peltry, wheat, flouf, -bis- ^uit, Indian corn^ puUe, salt provisions, fish, and some other mis- Niagara and the §ant jjt. Mary. The fourth section is coinj?o>- eJ of lake Superji^r and its ct^nfluent ri.v<;rs. The cwo (livisions, will naturally pass to Montreal and Que- bec : timt of the" latter two, will, if the New-^ork canal was fi- nished, in great part puAS through that conveyen(w into the Hiid- cuu • The most efficacious prohibition wouid be a water rout^, open longer, leading to a better market, and included within our own couutry. f.aws thai contravene, to any great dcgre(?, the passions or avidilv of mankind, ha»e betii, and always will be, nugatory. Tlie imiversality of severe neunl statutes against du- elling, and the almost equal ubiquiiy of that practic-, is a loud speaking comuKMitary on what I l;a\e aUvaJiced above. •v: . 5' ;* liir^' .' v.v. ! ' I* ? V r' ij f * I XXIV BOUCHETTC'S CANADA. [addenda mo. I. •1 , r cellaneous articles, employing generally ai)ont 1 50,ooo Ions of i^hipping. In this enumeration, tlie articles of primary const> quence to England, are the growtii of the forests, whether consi- dered as the source of employment to British ships and native sailors in the carriage of it, if they were ahle to contend for the freights against the indulgences granted to their opponents; or as to their being o! great and continued consumption, therefore of Indispensible necessity. Since the year 1 806, the timber trade of the colonies, but of the Canadns in particular, increased ^n nii extraordinary degree, until the state of the country at the com- mencement of liostiHties with America not only checked^ its fur- ther progress, but from very obvious causes, reduced it below the $tandai*d of former years. This diminution, however, njust be considered only accidental, and totally unconnected with the re- sources of the trade, which, according to the most discreet me- thods of calculation, is not only adequate to supply abundantly the demand of the British West-India islands with square timber, planks, deals, staves, and whatever comes under the general name of lumber, but to furnish a large proportion of the same for the use of Great Britain. Tiiis ability it was, and perhaps with many may be still the fashion to consider problematical ; but let the return of exports from 1806 to 1810 be examined, and it v.ill be readily seen, that in these four years they advanced from about 100,000 to 375,000 tons from a,ll the provinces, of which nearly one half was trom Quebec alone. To meet this demand, i»o difficulties were encountered in procuring the necessary quan- tities, either with respect to the nundier of hands to be employed in colIevHing it, or any thing like a failure in the forests ; and hail it feeen a& large again, it might have been answered with propor- tionate facility. Within the period cited, the increase of this trade in the Canadas only was much more than equivalent to the total consumption of the West-India islands, estimated at 142,Q0() tons, which is but little less than half the quantity annually rcqui- i-ed for the use ot the royal navy. The export of timber in this year, is, perhaps, tl»^; greatest of any that has taken place, yet the ease with which it vas procured is certainly an argument that weighs strongly against the assertion, that the North American colonies are unable to supply 'he necessities of the VV est-lndics. " With respect to the expor.ation of flour and giain, the pra- "i It.- : lduenua ^o. (. ADDIKOA NO. I.] BOUCHETTE » CANADA. XXV gross is ftot certainly so satisfactory ns that oftimberj* yet this circumstance is far from being conchisive of inabihty to furnish such quantities as are required for the use of tlic West-India isl- ands, wliose aiMiunI demand for flour, grain, and biscuit, is com- j>ut-d at sometliing more tlian 1,200,000 bushels. Of this quan- tity, Canada has hitherto seldom exported, upon an average, but little moi« than a third part. So great a disparity of numbers, is iini a sullicient reason to abandon, without some further reflec- tion, the supposition, that the supply may be made to equal the demand. Inmiediately, indeed, it could not; but after the lapse of a very few years, may not so desirable an object be obtained, when the good cflects of a^i improved system of agricultural management, and to the encouragement of which the most rigid attention onglit to be paid, begin to show themselves, combined with such measures as would make it the interest of the people of the well cultivated countries of the United States that lie contigu- ous to our frontier, to bring their disposable produce to the ports of the St. Lawrence ? The foundation of these advantages would certainly be laid, were the colonial merchants placed in a situa- tion to contend against those of America, in supplying the isl- ands. Until the commencement of hc3tililies with us, the latter enjoyed the proflts of supplying our West-Indian possessions, both with provisions and liunber, and which were, in fact, secured to ihem by an act that passed the British parliament, in 1807, whereby the privy council was authorised to suspend the opera- tions of the Act i2th Charles the Second, excluding foreign ships from trading with the English colonics. Under favor of this suspen- sion,they employed an immense number of ships in this trade,every ton of which was a manifest detriment both to our provinces and • When in Canada, several judicious persons resident i •. that country, expressed to me their opinion, that the lumber trade was the greatest existing impediment to the prosperity and improve- ment of the people, as it employed their active able bodied labor- ing niieu in that part of the year that ought to be appropriated to agriculture. There is little doubt, but that timber trade is a very uhprodoclive branch of commerce, and that a country must re- main at least in a dependant and precarious condition, where much attention is paid to an application of industry, where the profits are so small compared with the necessary exertion and consumption of time. 82. * >: vr« \ I > ft' ^. if.-; 1 4 h '■' . - li;'. ' '.,' .5, 1'^ " H.^ • ^v <' r^^ , ■^ r^^'"' i 1 ' ' M? '^« - 1 M 'M 1 our romincrcia! navy. Tl»** lnlmiMl'on or Amrrirnn pfortiice iiitr/ the ports of GirBt Biitnin, upon paying the ^iimv chitics only nff arc chHrpc'd upon the impoitnti«in of jiirhilnr nrtirlo* from onr own colonies, i-* nnother very powerful check nphinati6^s nguinat it, will expe- rience much ditrjcnlty in rising to the eminence it wouUI Speedily ntloin, if thrit country, srt recently censed to i)e an invetcrnt^r enemy, l)C ^ot agaiti placed by the liberiility of the British po- verriment in i^ fituntion to infipede its progress, and he herealler viewed in th^ sHinb light, and put uprn a par with 6ther foreign nfations, in reaped tW restriHir^ns ftritl co^m(erva?ling jJuties ; then ihe North American j»i-ovinces will soon greatly improve their in- ternal situhtidnj and ihfe mothef eount'v derive such henefit from thern n« w?ft rertctfer her more independent of other natinnft for supplies of the first importance, than »he has hitherto been.'* TTopn;:raphical Dfacrtption of the rrovincp of Lorvfr Vanattn, with remarlat upon Upper Canada. Jhj Jo^kph BovcAtTrlj; EsO. fcotlrfort, 1 8 1 5 i^fl^f 57— »5.] <■■*,- ",■•'1 n pfoHucc intrZ rill ties only nfi irliA i'rani onr n ilieir pvospp- st ?(, will c'xpr- woiild Kprodily H Hii invcUcinWf tlie Hrkisli po- d be liernalttM- 6thpr forrigiTf i^Mlntiesj tUvn •prove tfieir in- such Lfuelit f otFier iialMMift itbertobrni.'* Lojcfr CanadHy .-irDENDA KO. II.] OKNERAL RKMAHKf • xxvit J^O. II. GENERAL REMARKS. THE h>icgoifig corrrspbiidencc nnd cxtrafcts, cbntuins (iw Substance of my own peisbnni obsei vntions, and such explanato- l-y mailer from oUieiS, As I could Collect during my tour, and since its (crmination ; I caimot, however, take leave of the read- cr, wiihoiil claiming Itis palibncc during a recopilulhtlbn, and an cxaniinatioii of ^ome extraneous matter, which was not included ill my original lettcrs> thbiigli of some importance to ttlucidate the topography of the fcountry oVfer wliich I ranged. 1 am aware that suth producllonsas mine, where few perSohaJ incident* are introduced, must driiw their interest from the gebgrftphical in- furmntion they may contain. It has been my endeaVor to throw nS much light as in my po^vfer, upon the naiiiial structure, and j)resent improvements of the tia»*t over wlich I ranged j how fdif I have SucctJtdbd, is now before the retider. There is one bbject of general interest, upon which more is perhaps expected from me than I t!an fulfil ; that is, the Grand Canal nbw in progress in the slatiB of NteW-York. On the Subject of this truly great work, I have beleiS bai-eful tb collect all the information 1 could procure, and hdvc now presented the result to the public. Not having vi- sited nallston 0)7 Saratoga Springs, I addressed a letter to thie Rev. IleUl)leh Sear$j desiring that ^ntlettian to give mc suclr informa- tion txh he possicsS&d, respecting these places of public resort. Mr. Sears Very politely and satisfactorily replied to my letter ; hiS an* swer I have tlimexed to this Addenda, conHdent that it contains much vahinble statistical tnattier. In my lc'*er to Mr. C. G. Haines, t bave explained nly views of the connexions that nature seertis to liave designed betwefen New-York and Pennsylvania, and can add but little in this place to what I then stated. From the demonstrations I have given of the true respective levels, between the head waters of the branch- u$ intetidfed ehainnels of intercommunication between the JVlississippi ttttd St. Lawrenee rallies, and also the roatcs of ttie iwo New- York canals. No doubt flow remains, but that the Chicago and Tllrnois riverj:. aflbrd by far the most eligible natural connexion between the nor'therft and southern waters of the United States. It appdin-y that the great spinfc running from the Hudson to the Manmee ri- \etj terminates atj or ife interrupted by the valley of the Illinois. The latter stream is formed towi;rds its source by two branches^ one of wliich lises south of Ir.ke IVlichignn, and the other (river Plein,) rises in the flat country west of the Chicago, and flowin|* ^outh, unite to the south-west Of the extreme south part of Mi- chigan. The Chicago lieads in the same plain with the river Plein, and winding for some distance p«lallel to the latter stsoani, thence tilrnS east, falls into lake Michigan. Tlie Chicago and Plein intfcrmingie their sources, and aflbrd one of those instances where rivers have their sources in plains, so nearly approacliing the curve of a real sphere as to leave for the discharge of the waters scarce inclination sufficient to determine their courses. This is the' case with the two rivers we are now reviewing. The precise descent of the Chicago, from its nearest approach to the Plein, to the level of Idke Michigan has never been ascertained, but it is known to be without falls, or even rapids. Tlic Plein also flows with a very slight current, and the two streams present tilmoKt a strait between the Mississippi river and lake Michigan.* . i)ij- ' 1 '■ 11 ' ' 1 * i'lie following mtcrcMin^ notice, decides tlie long contested |>roblem of a natural water comnumication between the waters *)f the St. Lawrence and Mij>si.<;sippi rivers, and contains also some other items of valuable inlbrmationi JTRlbM ThK ST. l.bt'is kNQl IRKti. • " Commtinieation nitk the /«Ai»s.— Messrs. Gialiam and Phillips^ chmmissioners on the part of the United States, and Mr. Sulli- vaii, surveyor, have set out to lake Michigan, to mark the l)^unda- ry lines of the lands ceded to the United States by the Ottawa, C3hippe\va, and Potto«attilna Irtdians in the summer of the yeai* )CNDA Nd. If, ADttSNDA NO. It.^ GENERAL REMARKSt xxix the land contiguous to this impoUant |)asS, wns ceded to tlie United States^ by the savage tribes who formerly possessed the rigilt of soil. The land thus ceded^ is now about being sur- veyed, and in course will ere long be sold to individuals and set- « They will run a line from the southern extremity of this lake, to the Mississippi. " The Indians iiave ceded to the United StateSj what lies to the south of this line. " The commissioners will run two other lines from the south- western part of lake Michigan, to the Illinois river. Tiie lines will be parallel to each other, and twenty miles apart. They will begin in the shore of the lake, at poiiits ten mites norlli and south of Chicago, and will embrace the little rivers ChicHiro and Plein, and the carrying place between them, which form the ••Iwuiiiel of communication between lake Michigan and the Illinois rivei'* The Indians have ceded to the United States, this important pass, with ten miles i..'' country on each side pf it, and it is the busi- ]iess of the commissioners to mark out the limits of the grant, that the American government may reduce? it to possession " The communication between the lake and the Illinois, is a point which will fix the attention of the merchant ami the stutrs- man. They will see in it the gale which is to open the northern seas into the valley of the Mississippi, and which is to connect New- York and New-Oiioans by a water line which the conjbincd navies of the world caiuiot cut oft". Never did the woi k of na- ture require so little from the hand of art, to complete so great a design ! " The lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, lie from west to east, \i} the direction of the St. Lawrence, nianifeslly seeking their outlet through the valley of that river. But the Michigan departs from that direction : she lays from north to south. Uni- ted to the other lakes by a strait, she stretches the body of her water down towards the head ol" ilie Illinois liver, as if intending to disciiarge herself through that chamiel into the Mississippi. And no lulls or mountains intervene to incvcMil the conjunction; o:\ the contrary, the grouml between is ilat, and covered with pouds in wel weather, which turn their waters partly to the hike and partly to the river. The Chicago end the Plein are the drains fi om these ponds ; they have neither falls nor shoals : they liave not the character of streams, but of canj's; the water hardly moves in Iheir deep and narrow channels. The Illinois itself is more a canal than a river, having hardly current enough to bend the lolYy grass which grows in its bed. The French of Canada and of the valley of the Mississippi have connnunicated through this channel since the settlement of the countries. In high water, boats of ten or n dozen tons, pass >.ithout olistruc- 1^- ■' 'i k\ a' pi:-- XXX (JENCRAL hEMAnKS. [aDDEMIJI n6. J!^. ■ ' « ' -Tr I, 'fi tleil. Tlio dcvelopemcnl of tlie natural resources of this region, \\'\\\ ho disclosed widi the ordinary celorily, Ihnl marks the newly fstiihlishctl ^ettlenieiits in oin* western world. The conrw; of lake Michigan cniitrihutes in some measure to diminish the natural advantages of its connexion with the Illinois. 'J'he month of the Calumet rivfcr, or southern pait 6f lake Mi- €;higan, is near N. lat. 43; whilst the straits of MIchilinmkinao is ahout 45", 40', making n difterenccof latitude of 3^, 40'. This flUfelenee of genera phirul position o.xpoJt^s the two extremes of hike INIichigan to groat variety of climate; the navigation of the iiorthern part Im ir.g ainuially, and of thcsoulhrrn finjuently im- J>e^ied hy ice. J have riniroxcd to this Addenda, (ahles which will rxhihit Mio relative disianc< from the city of New- York to St. Lonis hv (he (\'uia(lian lakes "nd hv the Ohio river. These lOJites, h(^wever, are fo difiercnt from each other, in climate, fa- cilities, and impediment, that Very little accu.-atc induction caii be (haw n front their respective length to determine a preference. It can scarce he douhted, hut that beyond BufTalo) when the xnntigtious countries are ofpuilly inhahited, the Illinois river and Cai;adian Inkcs vill form the channel of eonimunication with the upper wateis of the Mississippi, in preferente to the route hy the Ohio. The nnvigation of the latter river is suhject to great embarrassmeni from frost, and long dry \veather in the fall sea- yon. So much of the iiorilwrrn channel of commerce permitib the use of vessels of con^i(!erflhle tonnr.^'o, that transportation from BuHulo trt Chicago, will be less expensive thiin that of any equal distance hy the Ohio route. If the people of the United dilates ought to eVtr unite, in Opening any chaenel bf conmiimi- tion. In the dry .d, but fjom all the scattered information f have j)eeh able tb pfoL'urc, 1 am iiulu^ed to believe thai the shores r.f lakes Krib and JVlichigan are in a grent pfirt siiniinr, and jf such is idie factj the latter is environed with shores possessing all the att'lbutes ne^lessary to permit a dense nn«l flourisiiing set- t'ement. That pnrt of the Michigari peninsula, projecting along l!ie .south-west sidebf lake f'mon, is equal in soil to nny olh;n" ter- ritory of so gleat e.\ti?ht in the St. Lawrence valley, or perhaps in any country. l>om Butlalo lb Chicago, is a distjiure, following the inflections of the shores, of 850 tnih.'s; atid including i!ic western and northern bank.s of lake Michisnn, of !,'2()0 miles. If we allow only the extension of 20 miles from the margin of the lakes ft>r settlement, we have a fine border irontnining 24,0',:o Jiquare miles; to whirh if we add an eriual widlli along the Chi- 'cago, Ijliiioisj and Mississij)pi rivers, to St. Louis, 400 miles in length, the aggregate will produce an entire siuface of 32,0(X) square miles, or 19,480,ooo acres; and at the very thin popula- tion of 50 persons to the square mile, ^vt»uld contain I.^oo.coo people. That the soil of thl^ tract is capable of supporting mbre ^han Jbnr ■line's lheFu])posed iunnher I have no doubt, ami that in the Ij^pse of leljs than thirty years frnm this time, it will contJiiii nM>re ll^rtn viie tnillion and a half of per.«;oMS I have as little doubt. i>efore the middle of the Current letitury, if no cntnslro- phe. jcci\rs to disturb the present coirtse of events, there will ex- ist, between ttie r ily of New-York and St. Louis, wilhlU less tluni fifty miles of the line we are now examining, more thnn five mil- 'ions of people, or about one half as many as are now itl ilie whole United States. This may perhaps excite a suspicion bf visiona- ry views in the writer, but some statistical facts may render the hntjci^utiou at least probable II may be doubted, whclhcr there !!.;■■! M ,^. nBm P^*' ' • Mly\' W!:': M ■•■»..; It.' # ,■ !■;■ ^:fe ' I XX.^Il ftEaNERAL REMARlfS. [adoknoa SV.'tt, is now mxlcr cultivation in ibe United States, ar. nrjcb productive soil as is contained upon the surface under re^ iew. if a pair of com^'s'sses is supposed to beset dowh in the city oi' t^hiiauiiitphia, and excended to loo miles radius, the sweep will incM'dt a sunuce of about 20,000 square miles of solid land, and i, ore than one million and a half of people, or nearly a sixth part of the eiit'ire population of the United States. If 'J(>,000 square miles is assum- ed as the land included in the radii of 100 miles from Philadel- phia, and 1,500^000 as the population, then this surface m ist lia'c an average population of 75 to the square mile, out of which 300,000 may be supposed to inhabit the cities of New- Vork, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and other towns. No person ac- ijuaintLMl with the comparative regions, would hazafd the asser- tion, that 20,000 square miles around Philadelphia, is equal in re- ?pcct to soil, to an equal surface along the Mohawk, in west New- Voik, Along the south side of lake T'.rie, in the Michigan penin- sula, and upon the Illinois river; the fact is, that compared to each other, a deciiU'd preference is ihw to the latter over the for- mer section, in the quality of the .«"nsiderable tracts on that river, settlement by a white :b productive If a pair of luJt a suru/ce ore tlion one t of the eiit';re liles is assuiti- om Philadcl- surface m ist mile, out of cities of New- Vo person ac- sard the assei- is equal in re- c, in west New- icliigan penin- it compared to 31" over the for- al comnjercial e.-fMai. Many laisiii of more dapted to agri- north- western 1. is in point of >m the Canadi- ubjoct to some iliigan passage, he Wabash is a lit; this stream I waters a body ces on the same )g to the north- latter river is nee bay, or the country water- well adapted to being now ex- jicnt by a whitte ♦'.C.NDA NO. 11.] QE.NERAL REMARKS. xxxni population will speedily ensue. The route by the Maumce and Wabash may he raa^lc u.-',;\il to a large comniuuity on the banks • N :';■,.. .■' ■■ ■ m ■i ) F .'■■>' •' ■ I I >l ',: XXXIV ai^N^JlRAL I(EMAftK». [audexda no. Ij. son river, is iii f\. sfsUc of Ibrwarduess, and will in two or three years be cpitipletcd, at once opening an uninterrupted cqniniuni- CMi^on between lake Erie and the pity of New- York. 'l^Ue nier- chant can have his goods broughjl on for a trifle, and in return can transmit the surplus products of uur country to a sure markt-t. This single circumstance, i;> aniply suflicient tq induce the legis- lature of Ohio to fullpw the example of their brethren in the ensl. andcujl a canal of only eight i liles, to bring the products from the iV:rtilc banks of the Ohio, through lake Erie to the cjly of New- York. If the state legislature, and heads pf dejtarlment are nuf l)lind to the interest of the state, they will not let thp present ses- sion pass, without at least preparing tq put ^hj$ |nipo).'^ant work into execution." 'V\\is well written artjcle deserve^ a qiore permi^nent recprcl than the colupins of a newspaper, I have enibodied it into my addepdai as i^ may tend .at least (o stimulate enquiry intq an im- portant point of our geography and national pqlicy. From Cleveland tp BuHalo, except by good roads, the intrr^ course \^ ill be /diDicult between the pepple who inhabit fhe shpie^ of the Canadian sea, and tjiose of (he Ohio valley. y^'e now approach ^he most iinportant part of our (inquiry, tlii; fvUniiiii Mobile ^ of nearly all the exerlion that will be made tji ilive eflect to any of the preceding ipiprov.ements. The Gran^ tpd lesj; O-ttpniion than the creation of new, or the dieliiupiency of old banks ; and yot a work that is destined to produce mpre lastinjj jmpressioiis u])on our external and ii)ternal poijoy, than any uii- dibiiti^Anis^ since tite foriiiadun of the i^deral c.onstitution. Noth- ing can ? e more narrow, niore selfish, more puerile, or riiore un- iVunJed, than the stspposilion that the sl.'i,te o/" New- York, as slir is Qiily to be benefitted, ought to bear the expense pf this greai uriyect. Ca fact, when completed, the slate of Npw-York, iu proportion to her extent and population, will gain less from tli< ;'sufruct of the Canal, than a p;.rt of Penn.svlvania, the \ >rthcjn part of li!€ slate of Ohio, all the Territory of Michigan, all the vast region bcoyp.d, to the sources of lakes Superior and Michigan and dll Ujipet Cuijada above the chute of Niagara. Without such u chanucl to the Atlantic coast, remote and detached masses oi populaiioa will be cltljer forced to form tlicir crmriicrcial con- 1 >pliiVl>4 SO. Ij. two or llirec ed cqiiiiiiuiii- in return can ^ure raai'ktt. nee the legis- en in the ens! ducts froin the cjiy of Ncw- Inicnt are iiof e present ses- iMOftant work fir^nent recpK^ in\ it into my ly liitq an ini> nds, the inlrr- abitfhe shpie^ ir (inquiry, thjj ill be made tft I. The Granjl s arre>tpd Icjj; (juency of ohi :e mpie lasting , than any uti- tutiou. Nolh- e, or rnore UU' w-York, as shj* t f)£ this RF.eat iS'pw-York, in less from the I, the 1 )rthciij an, all the vast I Michigan and '^ilhout such a hed masses oi mtxicrcial cou- il^DENOA NO. n.] OKNKIAL IlEMAlftcJ*. xxxt ne.xions with Montreal, or /cmaiu in a slate of inactivity. This |s exactly the case at the present moment. The man who con- founds the subject of iho Canal with local or personal polities, has very little sensp of or respect for his own future fame } and such n mistake will hj- of more i>»jury to those whp commit it, than tq the execution of ihe desijjn. It will U-ave the iniprint of its patrons on the face of the i;lohe, an imprint that will remain centuries after the names of those who are now qnly rendered remarkable by office, will have passed to the deep silence of pblivion. If a river flowed from ruflalq to Albany, with a slow and gear tie current, ifuohslructed by rapjdsor shoaU, with four feet watei, ^^ature vould then ||ave done for interior Nprth America, only what thp Cauifl is calculated to p9rforfn. To oppose or tJiwart j5ucl| a v fl'oii? mqtlves of rival politics, is, to say the least^ unwise, ino^kCusable in an individual however obscine ; but in tho?e whose decisions have ^ hijjher authority, pernicious. Ever ry road, bridge, or caual that is formed, pf however small cxr tent, contributes to ijnite society, to promote social and moral intercourse^ aud to render men more liberal and ftiore happy. The man who gives his mite to actelepate the formation of sudi works, does a lasting good to his species. To obtain a high rank amongst mankind ; to become at onpe the envy of rivals, and admiration of friends, js the lot of few mpn ; but to contribut|:> to national prosperity by aiding designs of pubijc utility, i$ withiff the reach of all men. And it is now a time to pause, and re-r fleet whether the resources of the United States can not be niort advantageously employed in internal etnprovemeut than in for- eign commerce. If this hour of reflection is neglected, posterity, whilst suflering the ev'ils, mj^y pxecratc thjB folly of the prc^cn; generation. We will now take a cursory survey of the intopded route of the, canal, and without waiting for petty details, rapidly glance ftver the facilities offered by naluie, or impediments opposed to it-s e\ecuti(»n. The Canal leaves BufTaio, thence follows the sho;^ of Niagara strait to the mouth of Tonnewanla creek, tunis up the bed ol that stream to where the level o\ lake Kiie lermiuatcs, then Icnvcs tlie Touncwauta u;)oi! lake IMe level. \vhic!i it follows to M lit*':-' ' 1 4' ■ , 1 4'?i. acxxvi OKNKUAL RRMAUK.S. [addend V NO. (I. the brow of Ontario heights. The Canal then assume.s its groat eastern direclioii towards Rome ; follows the Onta'^io heiuhls through the sources of ICijEjhteen Mile creek, Oak Orchard creek, Saihly creek, siud some smaller streams to Gerie.see, which latter river C^e canal will pass by a dam, or on an aqueduct bridge, and \v lading tlwnce over the heads of Jrondequot creek, enters the sjntrces of S«'neca river by Mud creek. The Canal then follows tile chajuiel of Mini creek to the outlet of Canandaigiia lake, and also d(.*vij the united stream to its junction with the outlets of Seneca and Cayui^a lakes. Tho latter point is the extreme de- pressu)n«f land between Rome r.nd BulTalo, and thus far may the waters of lake Lrie \h^ made subservient to the Canal, if neces- sary. So many feeders flow across the Canal route, that a su- perabundance of water is to he found in all its length. I have here noticed the iwrthern route, which, from lake Erie at tin? fnouth of IJutfalo creek, to the intersectjon of the Canal with Seneca river, it^ 99 miles. The commissioners who framed the re- port, under the \&w of the stateof New-York, of the 17th of Aprils 1816, seem to hav(» preferred the southern route, but for reasons not sufficiently explained in their report. The two routes diverge from each other at tlic point, I I miles up the Tonnewanla, and again unite at the west bank of Gcjiesee river. The northern rputc, as I have mentiCited, never rises above the lake Erie level, ^ut the southern route rises ahove lake Erie, to gain the summit level near Batavia, nearly 73 feet ; a descent it must fall in aj> proaching Genesee river, together with the diflereiice of level of timt stream and lake Erie, 194 feet; or in all, from the Ba-i- lavia level to Genesee, 269 feet. The no;thern route avoids any deseent between lake Erie and Genesee river, except the simple difference of level Ljtween these waters, and is e^^enipt from any ascent whatever, above the lake Erie level. The northern route must also possess the insuperable advantage of a much greater, and more certain supply of water. Neither route as far as Seru?ca river, meets any very serious impediments from natural obstacles, and can be no doubt execu- ted within the estimates made by the connnissioners. The level near Rome is 48.5 feet higher than low water in Sen- eca river ; the interm(;diato space generally a rich alluvion. Here arc presented some of the mvst curious phcnomcaa of ENUV NO. (I. lies its grnat ,no heiijlils hard creek, which Inllcr t hiidge,an(l enters the then follows vm lake, nnd je outlets of extreme de- s far may the lal, if neccs- e, that a sit- igdi. I have Erie at the c Canal with ramed the re- 17 th of Aprils ut for reasons routes diverge linewanla, and The northern ike Erie level, in the summit iust fall in ap* lice of level of from the Ba-^ ute avoids any apt the simple })npt from any lorthern routa much greater, ly very serious [) doubt execu- s. V water in Sen- rich alluvion, phenomena of AbDEND.\ NO. n.] «ENEaAL hemarw. jcotvii North America. The singular adaptation of the space between rtoineand Seneca river for a Canal, is descriljcd in the following v6ry striking manner by the commissioners. " The exuberant .supply of water for the canal, in this section, mwsl be at once perceived from an inspection of the topogrnplii- «»al map. At its commencement, the waters of the Mohawk ri- ver will be used, and they can be increft.sed to any extent, by in- Urdducing a feeder from Fish creek. Independently of numerous small brooks, the canal can derive as much water as can be de- .sired from the Oneida, the Gowaslon, the Caimsaraga, the Chit- teningo, tJie Black, the Limestone, the Butternut, the Onondaga, the Nine-mile, the Skcneateles, the Bread, the Cold-springy the Owasco, and the Crane creeks ; some of vvhich are the outlets of Jakes, and others originate from perennial springs in high lands, and will tiever be affA:ted by the clearing of the country. " The adaptation of the grounds of this section, for A canal, ig {Peculiar and extraordinary. After proceoding two miles and fourteen chains^ it will be necessary to descend 6 feet; after which, the line of the ctlnal proceeds 41 1-2 miles on one level. A de- scent of 19 feet then takes place, from the foot of which another level extends 10 miles. For the remainder of the distance to the •Seneca river, there are three departures from the level— ouc of 8| one of 9, and one of 6 1-2 feet. Thus the whole extent of Ihi* section, occupying 77 miles, will require but six locks. '< In many places inexhaustible beds of gypsum exist, which can, by '.(leans of this canal, be conveyed chedper to the great apricul- tuial counties of the state, than it can be procured by inNpnrta- tion. And nothing is more easy than, by a short lateral canal of 1 1-3 miles in length, to form a communication between Salina and the great canal, thus furnishing fuel to the works, and salt to the whole country. A level has been carried from that of the ca- nal, at the foot of the two locks near Onondaga creek, which iwould require no greater depth of excavation than four feet, in any place, and no embankment, culvert, or lock." Fidi Commissioner's Jteport, page 59. It may be said with justice, that the country west of Utica, \$ peculiarly adapted to the formation of a canal ; and if no farther progress should ever be made than uniting together by a water communication, the Mohawk and SeneoA riverfi, .such a work T <^- A<1' I ■ V ■ » h ' XXXV 111 UENJuBAL. KliAIAKKS. [addenda S*t. If, ■<■■ ■! i i 1 * ', l> ■ \ 1 .' oHglil to iinrriorUili/.c its projectors, and cmicli those tvho carry it into execution. I linvc shown that the IMohawk river noni Konic, at high water divides its stream and discharges water lo- .wards the Hudson and St. Lawrence rivers; of course this cir- cumstance renders the vohnnc of the Mohawk subservient us a feeder to the canal, both to the westward and eastward. VVIien writing on this subject, the idea first [Hcsented itself tf> my mind, that through either th/e Mohawk, or sonic valley to the fonth-wept of that village, oucc rtowed the St. Lawrein^e river. Home is only 188 feet al)ove lake Ontario; and the vallies of tli^* Chittcningo, pcrhajM not so high eVen near the sources of tha* tiver. Kvcry step I advance in the inquiry respecting the Grflnd Ca- tial, I am the more impressed ^-iili the belief that much valuable information would be gained by an accurate sin vey of the inter- lodking sources of the Susquehanna river and the streams (lowing •" towards Oneidlilake. Tire points chosen, Newton creek and Se- neca lake, to unite tlie Susquehanna river to the confluent waters of the Grand Canal, are tlie most obvious,* but I now very much doubt their being the only points of contact, where very useful improvements could be made. If ever lake Ontario was 188 feet abcve its present level, then was its waters discharged, either towards the Hudson or Susqitehanna, or both. The ancient fea- tures of this continent, must have been very different from the present. It will be recollected, that the diftcrence of level be- tween lakes Eric and Ontario, is 3.14 feet; therefore, if the sur- face of lhe,'latter was again elevated 188 feet, its level would still 1)6 depressed below that of the former 140 feet. No person of ordinary observation, who examines the shores of lake OntarFo or the banks of St. Lawrence river, but will grant xhni abundant evidences remain to attest an elevation of lake Ontario of more than two hundred feet above its present surface. KviJences also exist, to prove that the recession of that Jake wn> * periodical. The chain of smaller lakes lying west of Rome, north of the dividing ridge, and east of Gene5ee river, were once ^.•♦ys of Ont.'irio. It is very certain, that the space between tli<' 'hills north of Ctica, to those south of Skcneateles lake, instill fji*' ^oic. page 1»6. lENDA NV. II. who carry river iicni (es wrtlcr lo- irse this cir- Iserviclit as a ird. htcd ilscif Uy I vol ley to thr nvix^c river. vallies oi'tli^- )urct*s oi' tlia' he Grand Ca- iiuch valiiahU' of the inter- reams (lowiiijj; creek and Se- nd iicnt waters oiv very much re very useful tario was 188 charged, either lie ancient fea- brent from the ice of level he- ore, if the sur- level would still lies the sliorcs r, hut will gran! ovation of lake iresent surface. r that Jake wji> k'csl of Rome, iver, were once L'e helweet) the lake, il^ still fji*' Addenda no. h.] gicneral remarka x.wu the hiwe.U gorge iil the <*ei)nrnting ridge that exist.i between the !lliiioi.s river aihl lake Champhtin ; and admitting the ancient elr- valion of lake Ontario to the level of the Mohawk river near Rome, then through this pass oriec ilowed the St. Lawrence wa- ter.s. If such a ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4503 5tl GENERAL REMARKS. [addenda no. II. |/;ropor- tion is started and landed short of Buffalo ; and produce is brought to, much cheaper than merchandise is carried from Al- bany. * It will be observed, that nearly haffa million is now paid for transportation anni ai^y, from above the Little Falls, and the Black river roads, of course on oTie side only of the Mohawk, and upon the river itself— and that the tiansportaticn has increased at Uast ojie sixth, since last winter, upon the river. What would the people say to a saving of but jialf of the above expense? What would they say if that saving was doubled, by adding to the account the thousands of loads yearly transported by the farmers themselves ? And what would they not say, could they foresee the immense quantities of produ<',e and merchandise which must necessarily pass this great thoroughfare to and from the western U'orldy whenever the canal is opened ? < But I must not indulge fancy, when I am restricted by a want of both time and capacity lo do any thing like justice to my sub- ject. I have collected a few facts, which are at your disposal, if they '4VC worih preserving." ' — Columbian. -'!<)■''■■ £■:' i ADDENDA NO. If.] OKNER.VL REMARKS. xli ;nda no. II. quantity and value of produce, which is transported through the locks at the Little Falls. It will be recollected, however, that if agriculture and corameixie make roads and canals, roads and canals re-act, and i»i their turn augment agriculture and com- merce. Theiefore, no estimate made as things are now situated, can give an adequate conception of the trade of the Mohawk, if that stream was connected with Seneca river and lake Erie. The middle section of the canal, ks the only part which is yet in progress, and is now so far advanced, as to render it probable^ that in the ensuing year, the communication with the Seneca will be completed, and the middle and eastern parts of the state uni- ted, which alone would be of incalculable gain to the state. " The middle section of this canal," says the Utica Gazette, *' is in nearly as great forwardness as that of the northern, and it is expected that it will be completed before the close of another season. This section extends from Utica to Seneca river, a dis- tance of nearly 90 miles, and in its whole course has but one Sjct.. of locks, and those at Salina, 60 miles west of Utica." Writing upon the subject of the canal, I proceeded rather as a statist t!ian an engineer; without attending to the minor details, my endeavor has been to develope the general features of the eountry through which this work is intended to pass, and rather to show its practicability and usefulness, than the ordinary means lo efftxt its execution. For further information respecting this project, I must refer lo the following documents. <* Memorial to the New- York Legislature, when the Western C^ nal was first projected." Written by D« Witt Clinton. " Reports of Canal Commissioners." '' Memorial to the Congress of the United Slates, to solicit aM in making the Grand Canal." " Considerations on the Great Western and Norlhern Canals, in- cluding a view of the expense^ progres&f and advantages^ Written under the direction of the New- York Correspondiiig Association for Promotion of Internal Improvements. By CrtAULEsG. Haines. This latter work, perhaps more than any other that has ap- peared, gives a luminous expose of the canal and its certain be- nefits to the nation, as well as state of New- York j and ought to^ T2 ' > ,^f' 'J. ■if? ';■■■' 1 1 ■' •' ''II t| xUT OENERAL REMAKKS. [addenda ko. 14. !•';■■' it ,.-." El ■ IvVt- '-■.>■., EC- be rend impartially by every (nan wlio desiiiis lo lliiiik, speak, of judge con eetly on the irnportanl subject upon which it tienls I vlll be connect -d. " Lake Fi^herUs. — \Vc cannot snfficientl)' rpprccirite the good- ness of Providence, for the peculiar heslowment of his favois on the people of this state. The sources of New-Yoik yet only dawn upon us. — Heaven has placed an exclusive siip})K of salt in the heart of the state, and this neccs.'sary article is dispensed ibr one shilling a bushel, where the trans])orlat>on alone, if ini- portcd, would cost twelyp. Not only arc the inhabitants of the vhole interior of the slate provided at a lo\v rale, but a large sur- plus is yearly cxjiorted. The current seruson, more than sixteen thousand barrels liave gonip through lake Ontario, for Pennsylva- nia and Oliio.'^Gypsitm too, in tjuantity equal to every purpose and beyond consumption, is found,in vast beds where the distance must, but for the bounty of the groat author of nature have deni-, u<\ the farnicr this great aid in agriculture. The.sc sources of ■^vealth and convenicr.fe l»«Ye been frequeritly descril)vd, whi'q the no less liberal hand of Providence in furnishing the wants of "many and the luxury 9,f others, by means of the fish found in the, lukes, is hardly known or acknowledged. The season for taking fish is just closing — I have not to the data for an estimate of th^ yearly product of this lake, but h^^v^ ascertaitied from tl";? most correct suur^jcs the following to be the quantity anjj species offish taken and salted this season, in this and Chaumoiit bays. " Siscoes or lake Herring, 4,000 barrels, selling price .^7 per barrel, is ^28,000 « White fish, ' 1,200 bbls. price .^9 is ]0,8( •' Salmon Trout, 400 bbls. *' 14 is 5,600 f Total, 5.600 bbls. amouut, ^UA^Q, M,f:- I, >ENDA mo. l^. A^BEXDA NO. U.J. GE.NJ5KAL REMAIIKS.' xliit " The distance comprised is less than twenty miles, and tlie quantity is exclusive of the abundance distributed fre^i in the country, contiguous to the fishing grounds. From Hijs statement sonje o])iuion may be fcyawed of the value, importance, and extent of our ijiland fisheries. Industry and la- bor ,nre alone wanting to share this bounty, and the poor are ena- bled to piovioctors, who have branded all those put up under their direction." It wns not the season for fishing when I was upon the Canadi* Of! laicos, I am therefore the less enabled to give either accurate or e.iU iisive information upon the subject. The inhabitants of the contignous shores consider the fish of tiie lakes as a very serious psr! of their iioinishmcnt. The lower extremity of lake Onta- rio, tlic Bass islands in lake Erie, and the Manatoqlin islands in lake lluion, are generally represented as aflbrding the best fishe- ries in these respective lakes. The mouths of most of the rivers also abound with fish of various kinds, of excellent quality. This article might indeed be extended to any length. The re- sources of the St. Lawrence valley are so numerous, so widely spread, and^ I might add until lately, so little appreciated, that a volume might be written to exhibit the neglected objects with which it abounds, and tihat may, and no doubt will ere long bq brought into use. I shall close this article by son,, observations upon travel- ling througli the St. Lawrenjce valley. Viewed in the light of a tour of pleasurable amusement, I eannot conceive of a counti*y where more could be enjoyed, as far as the richest objects in na- ture are gratifying to our taste. From the city of New- York to that of Albany, and from the latter along the Mohawk and Sene^ ca rivers, the traveller finds renewed gratification at every step. From Canandaigua to Buflalo, is the least interesting tract over which I myself passed j but even here, many circumstances in the improvement of the farms, villages, and roads, will afiTord am- ple gratification to minds who derive delight from seeing^ a wilde^v* ness changed to a cultivated country, • .; 1 I I xliv GENERAL AKMAKKS. fADpENDA NO. I|. ■imw ,i.\ m' ISi' , .:■ •■■■■'*. i f:: ;' ), ;0^; 1 . > ,- 1 ';'■',■'■; When arrived at BuiTalo, a tract opens, tliat the coldest heart can scarce view with indillcrence. Here opens the expanse of lake Lrie, the richly spreading landscapes along Niagara river, and above all, that cataract, that to have seen may be conndere(| a privilege. The steani-buat will in a few days waft the traveller along the surface of lake Erie to Detroit; and whilst on (liis voy- age, the swelling shores of that lake, the nutnerous islands in ita south-west extremity, above all, the well cultivated shores and beautiful strait of Erie, with it$ towns, farms, and other ohjects, will combine to present a continually renewed feast to the mind. Returned to Bufialo, the Niagara strait can once more be passed with unabated pleasure. The steam-boats are again in rcadinessai Lewiston "or Queenston, (o waft the traveller along Ontario to Sacket's Matlpr. The scenery upon the shores of Ontario is more varied, and of a bolder aspect than upon Erie, and though the least in exttn^ tvf the five great lakes of Canada, Ontario is the most interesting of the whole groupe. With Niagara at the one extreuiity, and the St. Lawrence at the other, and receiving from its southern shores the Genesee, Oswego, and Black rivers, tills noble sheet of water may clai^n the iii st rank, wheiii viewed as the great connecting lirk, between the vast interion; sea ©f North America, and the unequalled stream flowing from its east-r «;rn point. And as if to lender its superiority over its more ex- pansive rivals decisive, it possesses the two fine harbors of Kings- ton and Sacket's, where ships of the line of the first rate, now lie in silent mnjesty, awaiting the period of war, to >Naft th^ thunder of their hundred cannon over its deep and oceau-lik^ bosom. Beside the features of Black river;, which as high as WatertowH well deserve a visit from the curious traveller, many other objects, near Sacket's Ilai bor, will amply reward the trouble and expense of a review. The spot is indeed classic ground. It was her? that first budded the now majestic laurels of our living Gentii^al Brown ; and it is here, where rests the remains of the brav^, the generous, huniane, and chivalrous Pike. Upon the point of land >%erloeking the harbor, rests the ashes of this American hero; and few Americans will eve^ visit the spot without dropping a tear to the too early, but glorious exit of this gallant soldier. But |*ikc rests not alone ;--ollitr U«;roci sleep beside h^m. Many of .;- h West heart pxpaiise of »ara river, con^iderecl le traveller n (his voy- lands in iU iliores and ler objeclSy > the mind. i be passed readiness a| Ontario tp irio is more and though , Ontario is gara at the* d receiving lack rivers, heia viewed :riot; se^. ^C Dm its castr Is more ex- it of Kings- first rate, o >\aft tii^ oceau-lik^ V^atertowH her objects, id expense was heri? ig GentTa) brave, the lint of land [can hero ; )ing a tear Her. But Miiny of ADDENDA NO. 11.^ GENERAL REMARKS. xlv the best and bravest men of the nation, fell upon the Canadian border. Their names have ojily in part survived the battle field ; their dying sigh mingled with the last roar of the cannon, ai>d left their meniory to be cherished by a few relatives and frieuls, and forgotten by that counlry they so greatly served. The tra- veller in seeking their graves, will often acek in vain ; no hand is found to point to the spot where the soldier sleeps. Fame lavish- es her ])luudils upon a few, and leaves the many to perish without a name ; !iih1 often the n whose sword saved his country, has not even the poor uiemorial of a heap of earth, to render Sacred the spot where his remains have been laid ; and alas ! too often his little orphans, mingle the bitterness of want, wi^h tears for 81 father wlio can neither " hear them sigh, nor see them weep." It would be nothing more than strictly correct to add, that from Sacket's Harbor to the city of Quebec, is a distance of about 380 miles that concentrates more to charm the eye, than can be found upon any equal extent in North America, if Jioi upon the earth. The St. Lawrence river and islands, the sl.ores and rapids, the distant moimtuins, the contrast of cultivated and forest land, vil- lages, cities, vessels of great variety ol" al/.e and rorin, and the majestic and pellucid river, all I'onn a tuit enseiublejlhixl ciui with ^ilficulty find a parallel, Returning by the Kichelieu river, lake Chalnplain, and Hudson river to Albany and New-York, will complete this truly delightful lour. 'Ihe Ibllowing list of stages and distances, will give more piecise ideas ol" the time necessary to peiform the Ibregoing tour. Npw-Ycrk ^0 Albany.* Utica, ^ - w. Auburn, - ■« Geneva, Canandaigua, Genesee river, ^ IJatavia, Hufialo, - Dunkirk, - Xrie, - - - iMILKS. 16Q 160 101 261 74 3.J5 22 35/ i6 373 26 3y9 - 26 425 4U 465 45 510 4j 556 * I have given the above, because that number of miles is genr erally understood to exist between the tvso cities. The estimate is, however, eiioneous ; it is, within a sn:all fi action of a mii^, )45 miles from New-York to Albany. i) '1 xlvi iKNERAL REMARKS. [addenda no. IX. ',. •Vf Clcvelnnrl, -,---.... Sandusky Buy, --,-_„ lijiss Islands, - .. - ^ - » . Moiilh of Detroit rivei-, - - - ^ . Ai^jlioistbiug, ------, DETROIT CITV, - , , - . Return to Buffalo, p ... Thence to the falls of Niacaja, - - - Queeuslown and Lewisloii, - - - - - Fori Niaj^arsi and Fort George, cuter lake Ontario, Genesee river, -----.. (ireat Sodus Bay, ,----- Oswego river, - 8acket\s Harbor, Cape Vincent, enter St. Kawreucc viver, t * Brogkyilie, Canada, and Morrislown in \J, S. 0t',.'n to Montreal, r - - - - - jMailsburg, - - ;'(janv, -----^,-. iSew-Yurk, ------- MILEH. 90 645 50 695 16 711 23 73„ 5 739 16 755 290 1 ,045 21 ! ,066 7 1,073 7 1,080 74 1,154 3.-5 1,189 28 i.2ir 40 1,257 20 1,277 50 i,3?r 12 1,3 39 5 1,314 9 1 ,o .1 1» 10 1,36.; 35 1,398 60 l,45ai ,105 1,56.; 65 l,62f} .6i 1,793 73 l,86G 178 2.044 i60 2,20-1. i.'.'i! i'MiV •,■ fn the above table, the diatanccs are given rather from public estimates than from real measurement, ami are consequently too> high, by perhaps nine or ten percent., as is the case between New- York f^ttd Albany ; the relative distances I believe to !>e near Jy correct. This fine tour can be made within llie period of forty days^ with ample time to see the most remarkable oj jects to be found uppu the route. TJie necessary expense cannot be so easily es- timated, but would certainly fall, for one person, below three liundred dollars. The best season of the year would be July and August; thoug'^ to enjoy the luxii'-y of a Canadian summer, the traveller must b© Qn the St. Lawrence in JuJy aud *h<' r\y pr , .. bf August. NDA NO. It. summer, the 4iI>UKiNDA NO. II.] \H}\. CLI.NTON's MKSbAGli. xlvki The luhUcss of Governor Clinton, lo the h::gislalurc of the stale pf New- York reiu.hcd the city of New- York, anding motives, to proceed in our honorable career^ by perfecting wilh all possible expedition this inland navigation. *i' At the present period a ton of commodities can be convey- ed from Buffalo to Albany by land for ^100, and to Montreal, principally by water, for 25. Hence it is obvious that the whole of the vast region to the west of that flourishing village, and the gi eater part of the extensive and fertile country east of it, arc prevented from sending tl;eir productions to our corpmercial emporium, and that th^y must either resort to the prccariou» CUA NO. Tf. AUDKMOA WO. ll.J UOV. CMNTON's MESsAGE. Xlix J manrier» markets of Canada, or, to places more distant, Ics3 accessible, or less advantageous. Wlicii the ^reut western canal is fmished, the expense of transportation from IhiflTalo to Albany, will not exceed .^10 a ton. Almost the w..ole of the ascending trade of the west will be derived from the city of New- York, and a great portion of the descending jiroducts will accumulate in that im- portant depot. \i half a million of tons are, at the present pe- riod, transported on the waters of the Hudson river, it is reasoi>- able to suppose that the time is not distant, when the commodi- ties conveyed on the Canals will be equal in amount. A small transit duty will consequently produce an immense incon*«^ aj)- plicable to the speedy extinguishment of the debt contracted for the ('auals, and to the prosoculion of other important improve- ments. " In tljcsc works, then, we behold the operation of a powerful engine of fiimnce, and of a prolific source of revenue. " li is certainly more important, tlmt the productive classes ot society should have good markets, out of the state, than that they should be exclusively confined to indilferent or Huclualing mar- kets in it. In the former case, wealth is diffused over the whok country, while in the latter, it is limited to a veiy few towns. A wise governnient ought to encourage communications with those places, where the farmer and manufacturer can sell at the high- est, and buy at the lowest prices. And, as the acquisition of ma- ny markets encreases the chance of good ones, and diminisjies/ in many instances, the expences of transportation^ and guards against the pernicious lluctualions of price^ 1 look forward with pleasure to the speedy arrival of the time, when the state will be able to improve the navigation of the Susquehanna, the Allegany, the Genesee, and St. Lawrence-*to assist in connecting the wa** ters of the great lakes and of the Mississippi — lo form a junction between the western Canal and lake Ontario by the Oswego river, and to promote the laudable intention of Pennsylvania, to unite the Seneca lake with the head waters of the Susquehanna." The calculation contained in theSe extracts, of the time neces- sary to complete the Grand Canal between Albany and Duffalo, and the canal from the Hudson river to lake Champlain, are founded upon data, that are too well based to admit either refuta- tion or cavil. If the slate of Xevv-York is left by the nation at l!.^ 11^ 1 OOV. rUNTON's MESSAGE. [ADDENliA NO. ^ii ■i.C I large to carry into eflTect this mighty project, unaided, and iit some measure opposed ; and should a single state, thus placed^ actually ellect such an undertaking, the result will exhibit the most extraordinary instance of the energy of a small part, and the hpatliy of the residue of the people of t'lc United States, that hu.< yet met the eye of mankind. Such an issue, will lie glorious in- deed to New- York, but .shamefid to the nation ; it will be a tri- umph of active reason, over inert prejudice. But in such modes and manner ; in the struggle of science against prescriptive opinion, has the progress of mankind hiiherto advanced. The Grand Canal will be an eternal monument erected to the memory of its projectors and executors; and the most solacing rellectioiu that presses upon the mind when contemplating this unequalled change made upon the physiognomy of nature, is, that not one drop of this artificial flood will be drained from th'e tears of suf- fering humanity. When the present generations have passed away^and when the future voyager is wafted along the picturesque vale of the Mohawk, amid all that can decorate the earth and de- light the senses, he will recall with unmixed admiration the names of those whose genius procured such beneficence to the men ol every passing age/ I'r'-i-':; ^.NdA NO. iV* ADOILHUtV NO. UI.] u.u.i.iiTiJCt »irnu<6i!v li NO. lit BAI.LSTON SPRIXGS, If was witli much rcj^ret llint on niy rt'lnrn to Albanvj t cotiM not spare time to visit Ballstoii. rurio.Vity t<» sec one of the most noted phicos ol' public resort in the IFniled Slates, wrtuUl have led me to that vilUige, and over its environs, but rails ol'a more Imperative nature, deprived me of such a ]>Ieasure. The fol- lowing letter conlhins tery satisfactory infonnrttion respectiuf: those celebrated waters^ and from its source is entitled to full xionfidence. " Ballstun-Spct, jyoitember 27, 181 8. " The rthme ef Balislon, lliough frequently applied to the villa);je at the mineral springs, belongs in stiietness to a township ahoiU five miles scpiare, tire north boundary of which falls within/ and embraces a part of the villajre ; the principal portion ol which lies within the adjacent township of Milton. " This village was indorporaJcd in 1807, by the name of Balls- lon-Spa, is un ler the government of three Trristees, annually chosen, and invested with certain privileges, tin- the better regu- lation of its own peculiar concerns, though for civil purposes gen- erally, a part thereof acts with the town of Dallston, and a part with the town of Millori. " The distinction between Ballstoii and Callston-Spa, ought to be carefully observed by all who have occttsion to correspond with visitants at tlu^se celebrated waters ; a {jrost-oHice being establish- ed, not only at this place but also in the town of Ballston, at some distance from the village. A similar observation might be made with respect to Saratoga, and Saratoga Springs. " The village of Ballston-Si)a i4 in the county of Saratoga, 26 miles Jiorlh of the city of Albany, in a beautiful and romantic situation. It lies within and along side of a valley, through which flows a stream of watei-, emptying itself immediately l>e-* low the village, into the Kayadarosscras creek. This vallev com- ^nences at the south-west^ wlicru the stream, which had previously ~S'^1 til BALLiTOX SI*niNGS. [.\UflE>DA NO. Ill, VU : |V.' Ik- i?i* I' ',5-V»J flowed towards tiic soutii, fetches a short compass round a point of land towards the north-east, runs some distance in that direc- tiOnj then turns and ptisses off towards the oast. The valiey fol- lows the course of the creek, is narrow it first ; but alter it ha^ taken an eastern direclini, its north bank suddenly recedes, and forms a beautiful plaih^djlening to view thJ Kayadarosseras and its buiUhn«4S. The north-west side of the valley is bordered by sautl hills, high and very steep. At the south-west eiid commen- ces a smooth and gentle ridge of land, which runs tast, sloping towards the north, until making a, gradual ^iircuit, it turns its in- clining surface towards the west T^he tcrniination of this slope is the (Jurviiig bank )f the valley along its south-eastern side, on wiiich bank the greater part oi' the village is built. The high sand hills on the north-wesi, the ridge of land on the south and east, with the open plain on the north-east, form the natural boun- daries of the vi ila^e. " This village contains 112 houses, exclusive of out-housrS, some of which being attached to favernS and Ijtrge hotels, are extensive, and add considerably to the village. The number of inliabitants is 614. It is a place of considerable business through- out the year ; the lands in the iieighborhood, er were accc^ii^- modated with board and lodging as follo\v§ : At J. B. Aldridge's At Sans Souci Hotel At David Cory's At other houses ?50 800 5Q0 250 1: il ■i tr,i i Total 2,50Q [It is fair to calculate that the average expenditure at the (above place, was 50 dollars a piece — In this case tbe,i>umt9t4 is 125,000 dollars.]— Gflsf. V Iw ballston srn^NGs. [addenda no. llS' m^. \ !■ The third large Uoarding-housc is Corey's,- formerly Mrs. White's. It stands at the head of the valley, on the ridge of land^ which runs along the souiJ; side of the village. The building and its accomnAodations rank with Aldridge's, yet being in a situation more retired and remote from the springs, though highly pleasant and agreeable, it is less known and less frequented. The existence of this village, is owing entirely to the mineral tiprings, which in this favored spot, rise up from the bowels of the earth. These, exclusive of a sulphur spring which has attracted little or no attention, were but lately two in number, one on the private property of Nicholas Low, Esq. over which he has erec- ted a handsome bathing-house, and the other in the publi c high- Avay, nearly opposite Alldridge's boarding-house. According to Mead's Analysis, which sustains a high reputation, the public well contains in one quart of water : Grains. 42 1 S 11 9 1 3-4 1-4 3-4 1-4 Muriat of Soda Muriatof Magnesia Muriat of Lime Carbonate of Magnesia Carbonate of Lime Oxide of Iron, Of aeriform fluids : Carb )nic acid gas Azotic gas Total, 63 1-2 And Low's well contains exactly the same ingredients, in near- ly the same quantities. " The natural appearance of these springs is curious and pleas> ing ; their waters are in continual agitation, are perfectly trans- parent, and have a saline, pungent, and to those accustomed to them, a most agreeable taste. They possess a stimulating and refreshing quality. Under the exhaustion of heat and fatigue, nothing tan be more agreeable and reviving to the system. As {Powerful remedies also, in many cases of diseajsc, they are well known and highly celebrated. Total, 69 Cubic Inches, m 61 2 1-2 ir ^i^ P !• ' ." IDA NO. Its- A DOEKDA NO. III.] BALLSTON Sl'RI N(iS. j[v '* These springs, however curious and excellent as they reallj* are, have beeil recently eclipsed by a new spring, which little more than a year since burst from the earth. In the month of August, 1817, continual rains had swollen the creek, which passes through this place, to a very great height, and produced a destruc- tive flood. In the centre of the village, the furious stream cut for itself a new course, and a few rotls lower down, it again diverted a little from its former channel, which upon the subsiding of the i water was left dry. In this deserted channel, which a few years ago had been artifieially made for the purpose of turning the creek from its natural course, veins of u^inei-^l water were soon <^iscovered issuing up through the sand, and forming on the sur* face a large fountain. As the water rose through a deep bed of loose gravel, blue clay, and quicksand, was foul, discoloured, an4 mingled with large quantities of fresh water ; great difficulties were apprehended in getting it into a state proper for use. This object, however, has been happily accomplished, an.d in a simple and easy manner. Two tubes have been forced down to differ ent depths, through which rise waters diflering considerably in their qualities, and constituting in fact two new springs. Tlie first tube was sunk to the depth of fourteen feet, is on a level with the surrounding earth, and being not perfectly tight at the top, never overflows with water. The depth of tbe second tube below the surface of the earth, is twenty-three feet, and into it an addi- tional tube five feet loiig has been inserted, through the whole of which length, that is, twenty-eight feet, the water rises to the sur- face, boiling and sparkling in the most curious and beautiful man-> Tier, and falling down in every direction over the sides of the tube. These springs, especially the latter, it has been proposed to call the Washington fountain ; and they arc commonly distinguished from each other by the descriptive appellations of the low and the high tube. " With regard to the qualities of these waters, I cannot do bet- ter than to make a few extracts from a letter, published in the New- York Evening Post, of the 26th of September last, written by Dr. Mead, to the Editor of that paper. < I have found,' saith he, * that the Washington fountain (mean- ing thereby the high tube.) contains more carbonic acid gas, than any other mineral spring which has ever been examined in this iiii m BALLST^K SPRINGS. [addenda no. 111. irv i^> f ■ I 1 1 I. ' i « coiniiry, and certainly much more than Any in Europe of y/h'itU we have any correct account : — one quart of this water, oy 55,750 cubic inches of it, contains nearly 76 cubic incites of this gas. The adjoining well does not contain any thing like thte saihe quan- tity of gas. * The next valuable qualities which these springs pdsscss^ arise from the quantity of iron which they contain, held in solution by the carb6nic acid. According to my former analysis of the Ball- ston and Saratoga waters, T never fouiid any of them to con lain more than one grain of iron in a quart, but 1 think I may ven- ture to statej from alctual expei-irhents, that the Washington foun- tain contain^ nearly double that quantity ; but the adjoining spring not quite sd much. * With respi3Ct to the saline conte Is of these springs, they do not differ materially in quality fibm those waters at Ballstoa, the analysis of which I have given to the public. None of them con- tain sul|:(hats; in this they diHer from most mineral waters; their cathartic propertied, therefore, are derived principally fioni the muriat of soda, r»r coinmon salt, with wi.ch they are impregnat- ed. The Washington fountain, however, contains less of this salt than any of the springs either at Ballston bi- Saratoga, while the adjoining spring contains much more than any of them, except the Congress spring * The Washiiigton Fountain is io highly charged with carbonit acid gas, and tontahis also so much iron, that it may be ranked in thie first class of tonic remedies; but at the same time, it is one the iise of ^hich i-equives much caution. It possesses all the good qualities which are attributed either to the waters of the Seltzer or Pyrniont, find J>onie of them in a superior degree. It is superior to the Seltzer or Spa, in cohtniningiion,in which they are both deficient i and it dilfcris matclially frorn the Pyrmoni, in containing a stiiricicnt quantity of mukiate of Soda, to afct as Ji tooling ifebrirugp, oi,d to counteract, iii some degree, the heating an(| stihiulating qualiliis of ihe other ingredients^ which, in some constitutions, would totally forbid the u^e of them. 1 have nevet BS yet met with, nor have I heard of ary water that so niparly resembles the watri-s of Germany, as the Washington fountain. It may be drank with great advantage in all cases of general de. bility, where tliere is great relaxation and loss of tone ; aiifl par- ticularly in diseases of the stomach.* A NO. lif. Addenda no. in.] ballston springs. Ivii sess. arise " Of the adjoining spring, that is the low tube, Doctor Mead remarks, that it ' has been found to possess very powerful purga- tive qualities, and may be considered as a s6tt of intermediate between the waters of Ballston and Saratoga. It is evidently^ even to the taste, more saline than any of the springs at Uallston> t)r than any, excepting one, at Saratoga ; and I have found by analysis, that it contains nearly one-fiflh more of muriate of soda or common salt, than any other, except that one ; and be- sides, possesses in the same proportion, all the other ingredients, isuch as carbonate of magnesia, carbonate of lime, and iron. It cannot therefore be doubted, that it becomes a very active pur- gative, sufficiently effectual to answer almost all useful purposes, particularly if drank under proper management, and with du6 precaution ; the neglect of which will not only prevent the Con- gress water fiom having the desired effect, but render too free a \ise of it highly injurious to the system.' " Of a place abounding with such invaluable waters, the geol- bgy must be intfiresting. As that, however, is a science to which I make no pretensions, I beg leave again to refer to Doctor i^lead, whose observations upon this subject, may be lound in the intro- ductory l^art of his chemical analysis of the waters of Dallstoii iand Saratoga, fr^m which the- following extracts are made. ' In ilie center of the village of Ballston, an excellent oppor- tunity is offered of examining the situation of the strata. A Ismail rivulet runs through it, which has laid bare an entire range t)f (loGtz or horizontal rocks, consisting of what may be called a calcario argillaceous schist oi- shale. This schist is nearly of A black colour, and from its staining the fingers, would appear to contain a portion of carbon ; it eiferveSces slightly with acids, Avhich shews that it also contains carbonate of lime ; it breaks ¥;a^ily into laminae of any thickness, Knd itnpr<-ssidns of vigefa- bles, cliiefly of a species of grass, can be observed between the laniinee: ; bul when large masses are exposed for any length of time to the atmospheVe, it rApidly shivers, or decomposes.' * Alternating with this schist, and near the same place, wlicr- ever the beds of sand will admit an inspection of the rock, solid masses of calcareous rocks are observed. This limestone is near- ly of a black colour, its fracture is slaty, it abounds with shells of various forms, some of which are so very apparent in their struc- ture and fuiiii^us not to be mistaken. li' J'! ■i' VIII BALLSTON apIllNClS. [addekda x'o. itn Ml • Hesidcs these rocks winch I have attempted to descrile, and which characterise a secondary country, it is necessary to state that tliose undulating hills which surround the village of Ballston, and which continue to prevail in the village of Saratoga, are formed principally of immense beds of line siliceous sand, as may l>e particularly observed in the rear of Aldriclge's boarding- house, where the height of one of these hills, which is very pre- cipitous, cannot be less than 150 feet; under this sai:d lies im- mense beds of stiff blue clay, which hardens when left for any time exposed to the atmosphere ; it effervesces slightly, but does not dissolve in acids, from which I should rather call it an argil- laceous marie ; it appears with some probhbility to have been formed by the decomposition of the schist in the neighborhood ; it is to be found by digging in the valleys in any direction, and it can be well observed on the side of a declivity near Lowe's well, where a considerable saline efflorescence can be seen on its sur- face, particularly after rain, owing to the chrystaliization of the Salt, which is produced by the sun's rays. This is a very inter*?st- ing fact, and as exactly such a peculiar species of clay is found to prevail in the soil from which the waters of Cheltenham arise, it may tend in some degree to explain from whence waters of this description receive their saline impregnation. * No metallic veius of ore have been discovered in this neigh- borhood in any direction ; and except iron, which is found in all the low grounds, in the state of an argillaceous or bog iron ore, I know of no other metalic deposit.' " This village, though now considerable, will probably still in- c'case, and receive additional improvements. The waters, with those of Saratoga, are u irivalled, and may be confidently expect- e'l to draw increasing crowds of visitants. The new springs are a lliosi valuable acquisition, and contiguous to them is an extensive brick edifice, origiiiaily intended as a factory, but now unemploy- ed, which, with capital and enterprise, might be converted into a superb boarding-house, which doubtless would be filled with guests, and prove not only an ornament to the village, but a profitable estabiishmcnt. With sentiments of respect, Yours. REUBEN SEARS. William Daiujv. DA NO. iir: ADDESD.V NO. iV.] ROUTES* I'* ILK ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF NEW-YORK TO ST. LOUIS, «t HAMILTON, PITTSnUnO, CISOINNATf, LOUISVILLE, AND THE OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI RIVEnS. Newburg, - Cocheclon, Ifamiltoii, - PITTSBURG, Stcubenville, Cinciiinaii, Louisville, Mouth of Oliio, ;ST. LOUIS, ftllLES. "60 60 120 294 354 5^61 615 59 674 363 1037 131 1167 393 1560 198 17d3 ml ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF NEW-YORK TO ST. LOUIS, fVY ALBANY, BUFFALO, DETROIT, MICHfLIMAKINAC, LAKE MICHIGAri, ILLINOIS, AND MlgSISSlPPI BkVERS. MILES, Albany, - - - Canandaigua, - Buffalo, Erie, - - - <];leveland, - - - DETROIT, - Fort Gratiot, Michilimakinac, Mouth of Chicago river, Head of Illinois do. Mouth of do. - ST. LOUIS, - 160 313 o7o 92 465 99 555 90 645 110 755 67 822 190 1012 280 1292 40 1332 400 1732 30 1762 It will be at once seen by an inspection of this table, that the difference in distance, by the two routes, is trifling ; and, all things considered, no great diversity exists naturally in the facility oflei- ed, or innpediments opposed to mercantile transportation j but with the Grand Canal from Albany to Buffalo., the advantage,? are obvioMsly in favor of the northern routc; 3 S9 D 12 ^0 JVaiBf ad. si^tiifies Jlddenda, k,9bino, point 171, note 172. Albany^ author arrives there, p. 9 ; aspect of the coHnlry be- tween and Kinderhook, p. 34, S5 ; fine view of, ih. JillmtetteSf Point des, 97, note. Jmhersthurgy p. 101, notej de- saibed, 193. ..fmsferrfnn, village ofy p. 45, Jindre^ Major, p. 14. .9rno/(f, General, p. 14. •Sshtabula river, 209. Mhen»i village of, p. 27. AubuTfiy village of, 212, 2 1 8 ; ceu- 6US of, ib. note; state prison at, 218. Jiudrain, Peter, Register of the land office at Detroit, supplies the author v/ith a manuscript map of part of the Michigan territory, 191. B. Batavittj village of, 154. Ballaton, road to, 44. ' Spa, ii. ad. Bap de J\rivernoi$f now Sacket's Parbor, 70. — — — Chaumont, 71. Bardayy Commodore, defeated by Commodore Perry, 21 1. jBass Islands f 184, 186. Black riveTf at Watertown, 68 ; at Brownvilie, 69 j its rapidi- ty, ib. Blnck Roekf 1 S8. Bloomfieldy village of, 152 ; coun- try near, its features, 153. Bois Blanch Island, 193*. Booth's Factory y 2 1 , Uouehette, Mr. Joseph, quoted; 86, 87, 92, 116, 203, 205. Boundary lUiCj between the Uni- ted St, jes, and Upper Canada^ proceedings on, 87. Break, Mr. Samuel, I38. Bridge, over Wappinger's creek, 20. over Kinderhook creek, 30. over the Mohawlc river^ at Schenectady, 43. over west Canada, 54. over Deer river, 66. over Black river at Wa- tertown, 68; at Brownville, 69. - at the Falls of Niagara, 166. X over Cayuga lake, 2 1 5. Briggs, Mr. Isaac, information obtained from, respecting the Little Falls, 49 ; gives the au- thor the latitude of Utica, and the variation of the magnetic neydle at that village, 55 ; let- ter from him respecting tlie Grand Canal, bcL ad. Brockf General, his death, 169. Brock viUe, town of, 7, 105 note, 107 note. Brown, General Jacob, his resi' dence, 69 ; wounded, 169 ; his military career, where com- menced, xliv. ad. Brown, Samuel R., quoted 203. Byron, Lord, quoted, 1 64 note. Buffalo, village of, 137, 155 j 11- I r INDEX. creek near, 156; Iiaibor of, ib. 157 ; destroyed, 170 ; road from Fort Geo.ge to, 170 ; farther reflections upon its harbor, 171. BurgoynSy General, liis march towards Albany, 34 ; surren- ders his ai'my, 25. a Canada creek, east, 47. creeAr, west, 53. — Upper, province of, 74 ; observations and reflections on 76, 87 ; its climate misunder stood, 121. Canalf between Seneca lake and 136 note, in the state of Capt. Alden Purtmlgc, 26, note ; wheie seen to most ad- vantage, 26 ; covered with snow, Mav 3d, 18 1 i, 27 note ; seen fro. ^olumbiaville, 31 ; . from Albt 35 ; from Troy, 36 ; their peculiar range, 226. CaterskiU Falls, 33. Cayuga creek, 156. village, 2 1 4,. lake, 215. bridge, ih. Cayahoga river, 178. Cazenovia creek, 156. village, 212, 220. Tioga river, grand. New-York, 1 60, xxxiv, ad. by Chatauque lake, 175 Canadttway, 174. Canandaigua, village of, 1 31 ; de- scribed, 1 33 ; population, ib. note; road from to Buffalo. 212, 215 ; revisited by the au thor, 212 ; observations upon, 213. lake of, 131, 133, 134. Chatauque lake, 175. Chaumont, Mr. Ray de, quoted,64 note. bay, 71. Canards, riviere aux, 193, Cape Rosier', 1 1 2. Cass, Governor, 196; conc'udes a treaty with several Indian tribes, ib. note. Carthage, curiosity near, 123. Cataract, of CaterskiU, .'^3. — — — of the Cohoes, 38. Little Falls, 48. Niagara, 101, 161, 169. 1 of Velino, description of, by Lord Byron, quoted, 164 note. of Seneca outlet, 2 1 4. near Ithaca, 215 note. Chenal Ecarte, 202, 205. . Chenango river, 220, 221. Cherry Valley, village of, 3l2i' 222. Chippewa river, 1 60 ; battle of, 1 69 ; river described, 203. Claverack creek, 29, 30. Cleveland, village, 178, 179. Clinton, Governor, his inaugural discourse, 42 ; description of the Little Falls, 48 ; extracts from his address, xlviii. ad. Columbiaville, 80 ; scenery near, 31. CunninghanCs Island, 179. n. Danbury, township or peninsula, 181. Deer river, 66. Detroit, river of, 99. city of, 100 note, 137, Cattaraugus creek, 156 Catskill, village of, 27, 32; mountains, (Catsbergs) 187, 200. Dunkirk, bay and harbor descri- bed, 173; prospects of future prosperity, 176. Dutchess county, N. Y. its as- pect, 17 ; timber in imprudcnt- w: ' ' beck, 24} their elevation by! extent aad population, 1 9. 17; fine view of, from Rhine- dently destroyed, 18, 19; its ■ . «.. .t • 1 •• *1 I A ^ J 1_i: \ r\ iVdix. 1 S, Eddifs map of tlie state of New York, 134. . J5rie, town of, 2 1 j harbor, ih. ■• lake of, loo note; storms on, ib. 'f extent and quantity of water in, 117; destructive 8torni on, 171 note; dangers of its navigation, 172; dis- tance iVom lake Huron, 191. fort, 168, 170. Essex county^ LFpper Canada, 194, 195. EsopuSf see Kintrston. F. Fall creek, 215. Falls of St. Mary, 94. of Niagara, 10 1, 160. ■ of. Montmorency, 1 12. ■ in Fall creek, 215 note. Fairporty village of, at the mouth of Grand river, ?77. Fire lands, tenure of from what derived, 181; now forms part of Huron county, ib. Flax, its culture in Canada, ad xvi. xix. 12. mountains, passage of the Hudson river through, 9, 10; their component parts, 1 1 note ; their height measured by Capt. Alden Partridge, 1 1 note, 12 ; scenery, 14. Fredonia, formerly Canadaway, 174. French of Canada, their charac- Fishkill landing, ter, 86. O. Gelder, Dr. Van, his poem upon Fort Putnam, 13 note. Genesee river, 153 ; flats of, ib. Geneva, village of, 129; descri- bed, 130; revisited by the au- thor, 212.213. Goat Island, 1 66 note. Gourlay, Mr. Robert, reflections upon liis operations in Upper Canada, 7G ; proceedings re- specting, in the provincial le- gislature, 77 J observations on, th. Grand, or Ouse river in U. C described 100 note, 177, 203. Grand Inland, in Niagara river, 158, 159 note. Grand Gallop Islands, 106 note ; described, 124. Granger, Mr. Gideon, 213. Gratiot, Fort, 200. Greme, General, 1 4. Greene county, 32, 33. Groa Isle, in Detroit river, de- scribed, 193, 193. //. Hamilton, village of, on St. Law- rence river, 87. village of, on Allegany river, 7, 140. Harrison, General, reconquers Michigan territory, 1 87 j de- feats General Proctor, ib. ; a- gain, 211. Hawkrns, Colonel Samuel, his fete champetre, on one of the St. Lawrence islands, 100 note. Haines, C. G. esq. correspo»' dence with the author, 13 , ISO. Hen and Chickens, islands, 196. Herkimer village, 54. '^ighlands, a term used for the passage of the Hudson river through the Fishkill moun- tains, 20. History, reading of neglected in the United States, 22; lessons drawn from, 80,81. Hudson river, its aspect in winter y ; its passage through the Fish- kill mountains, 9, 10, 11; did not always flow into New- York bay, 1 1 ; creeks of, 20 ; peculiar features of its banks, 28, 29. UfOtK. W- ^ ^i: } w M..- Iltuliiony town of^ 2r, iS, 39 HuUy Ueiieraly reflections upon his operations in the Midiigan teriilory, 188. dian name f^r Fishkill, \6 note ; scenery on, ift^ Schenck's factory on^ 1 6. iJHaumet bay, 208, 309 ; country /iuronrtv«r/m the state of Ohio, nenr compared to that upoa 182. the gulf of Mexico, 309. of lake Erie, 201. Mexican gulfy 209. of lake St. Clair, 302. [j^ichigan lakey 93, 108, 1 17. jieninsiiln, 96 note, territory, 96 note; popti- * - lake, 95 ; communication between and lukeOntariO|98, 90 note ; extent and quantity uf water, 117} distance from lake Erie, 191. Ithaca, village of, 21(1 note. K, Kindfvhook creek ^ 29, 33. village of, 33, 34. Kingston, town of, in Upper Ca- nada, 97 note; 104. village of, 24 ; taken and lation of, 197, 200; geological stnictiire, 198, 199; Settle- ments in, 200 ; climate, ib, Mingan settlement, 112. MissisHtppi m*er, contrasted with the St. Lawrence, 88, 9d', 91 y. 92. Mohawk river, 42, 48, and se- quel ; valley of near Utica, 57 ; its features, 2^5. Montreal, city of, elegance of its site, IU9 note; population of^ ib. ; noticed, 137. bm*nt by the British, ib. , pre- sent state oA 25 ; situation, ib. ICirk S^ Mercetn, Booksellers o£ Mountains, Fishkill, U, andje- the city of New- York, their edition of Cuvicr*s theory of the Earth, 1 1 note ; 42. L. Lakes and rivers compa\':df 108 note. JLay^s iTiap of the state of New- York, 134. Little Falls, 48 ; description of, by Gov. CHnton, ib. note ; sce- nery near, 49, 52; changes that this cataract has under- gone, 52. LouisviUe, town of, 1 37. Lyons village, 139, 131. M. Maitland, Sir Peregrine, Cover nor of Upper Canada, proceed ings of, re«p»)cting Mr. Rotjert Couilay, 77. Maiden, 193. MnHitfactures, Amerioan, disad-' vantages opposed to, 16,21,22; Mateoivun,' aclory at, 16 j hi-lA^ormtim Kill ^ 227% quel. Catskill, (Catsbergs) 17; seen from Hiidson, 29 ; from Columbiaville, 3 1 ; from Alba- ny, 35 ; froH) Troy, 36. Murdeir creek, 134. JV. Natchitoches, 1 37 ; compared with Detroit, 190; noticed, 137. Mwbitrg, its site, 10, 12. New-Orleans, ship of the line on the stocks at Sucket's Harbor^ observations on, 71, 72, city of, 145, 189. New-York, seasons at compared to those at Albany, 9. Niagara, cataract of, described by Mr. Bouchette, 10 1. — — bv the author of this trea- tise, 160, 169. river, 102. fort, 170. INORX. 0. note, 96 Ogdt.ntimtghf village of Uescri bed, 7, 73, 74, 87, 106. Ogden*i hlandf 87, 131. Ogilvitf Colonel, his obMorvalionn icsuecting the St. Lawreiict ana Ottawa rivers, 9 tiole. Ohio river, contrasted with the St. Lawrence, 74, HS. — — state of, boundary Iwtwccn and Pennsylvahia, 177; range of the Krie ridge through, 18X*. Oleatif or Hamilton, on the Alle gany river, 145 ; transit of merchandise Ijetwecn and the city of New- York, ib. note. OntariOf lake, 102 ; its depth, 103 Pike, General, his grkvt:, 'iv, n4« Pine lands upon the Hudson, 31, 34; compared with tliosu of Louisiana, Alabama, and Mis- sissippi, ih.\ their sterile a»> jTect, 38. Poutfhkeepmf town of, 21; Booth's factory at, ib. Prescotty town of, 7, lo7 note. ProctoTf Cieneral, defeated by (General Harrison, 211. Putnam counfy, K; takj^n from Dutchess, 19. General, 15. fort, its situation, L3 ; 104, 108 notes; nuliced 109' 128 note, 127; recession of, note ; noticed, 1 29 ; interest ing features of, xliv. ad. Oppen/ieim, village of, 4". OrleanSf island of, 113. _ — New, city, 145, 18.). Oawego river f 104, 217. Ottawa river f 93, 97, note. Otisco lalce, 220, 221. Owasco lake, 218. Ouse or Orandrivtr, 177, 303. P. J*alatinef village of, 46. PainesviUej village of, 178. Partridge, Capt. Aldcn, meas- ures the height of Fislikill mountains, 1 1 note ; those of the Catsbergs, 26 uote^ some others, ib. Peninsula, between Sandusky and Portage rivers, and extending between Sandusky bay and the Buss Islands, 179; described, 180,181. Perry, Commodore, 171 note captures a Hritish squadron on lake Erie, 185 ; the vessels of both tlects now in Eric harbor, Dr. Van Gelder*8 poem uponi 13 note; its scenery, 14, 15. Put-in-bay, lOO note, 185, 186. Quebec, ciiy of, 102, 112, 127. (lueenntown, 102. lieights of, 203. R, Raifiin^ or Grape river, 20!. Rhinebeck, village, 23. Ridf(e, between lake Erie, and Ohio waters, 173; its elevation, 175; visible near the moutlt of Grand river from the en- trance into Sandusky bay, 179; its range through the slutc of Ohio, 182; through the state of New-York, 217, 224. Rivers, Ottawa, Musquinonge, St. Maurice, St. Anne, Jacques Cartier, Saguenay, Betsiami- tes, Manacouagan, 95. Rivers and lakes, their features^ 108 note. l?o«ge, riviere, 201. Uoute from New- York to St. Lou* is by Pittsburg, Sec. lix. ad. by Detroit, &c. lix. ad. from New- York to De- troit, and down the St. Law» rence, to Quebec, and return to New- York, xlv. ad* Rutland, viUaj»e, 67. I r I i tm fi P^f i- k'i 1 1 'i }^ k .' ll^ 1 r 1 1 ! it**" INDiiX. 8, Sackd's Harbor, 5 6 ; country be tween and Utica, 57, 70 ; re- view at, 73 ; country between and the Thousand islands, 73 ; military works at, 104 note; grave of General Pike, xliv. ad. ; views near, ib. Saguenay river, 93 j described, 97 note. 8andwlch, Upper Canada, 194, 195. Sandusky 6ay, 180; described, 181. village of, 185. Mate Schenck's factory on the owan, (Fishkill) 16. Schenectady^ village of, its dis tance from Albany, 39 ; inter mediate country, ib. ; situation of, 40 ; surprised by the sava- ges, ib. ; Union College at, 4 1 . Schoharie creek, enters the Mo- hawk river, 45 ; described, 227. Schlosserf fort, 1 60 Scottj General VVinfield, visits Sacket's Harbor, 72 ; wounded, 169. Senecay lake, 213; outlet of, 2 14. river, 217. Shawangunkf mountain, 20. Simcoef lake, 97. Sisters Islands, 1 86. Skeneateles, lake, 219. Smithes Gazetteer '•f Upper Ca nada, quoted, 203. Sodus bay, described, 126. Sp^ffbrd's Gazetteer, quoted, 32, 33. Steamboats, their arrangement . defective, 9 ; Walk-in-the- Wa- ter, 173 note. St. CUdr, river, 99. lake, 191. St. Francis, lake, 107, 108, 124. St. Lawrence, river of, 73 ; con- trasted with the Mississippi, ib. its real commencement, ib. ; c*0niiiierce upon, Tfijcompft' iw io the Hudson, 88, 89; table of the surface drained by, 89 ; contrasted with the Mis^ sis.dppi, 88; noticed, 90, 91, 92, 106 note, 107 note; excel- lent ship navigation in, 108 note ; compared with the Oro- noco an»- Plate rivers, ift. ; con- trasted with the Amazon and Mississippi, 109 note; beauty of its islands, ib. note ; effect of frost on, 115, 116; compa- red with the Hudson, Delaware, Susquehanna, Rio de Isi Plate, and Elbe, 116; quantity of water in enormous, 117; tim- ber on its shores, 120 ; features of its bank$ where visited by the author, 119; islands iti contrasted with those in the '"Mississippi, 123 ; navigation of between Montreal andOgdens- burgh, 125 ; between Ogdens- burgh and Kingston, 125, valley of, its natural ad- vantages, 205 ; climate, 206. St. Regis, Indians claim, the right of soil to the St. Lawrence islands, 125. Sugar river, 66. Superior, lake, 93; extent and quantity of water, 117. Susquehami.t river, 223. T. Table of the area drained by the St. Lawrence, 89 ; by the Mis- sissippi, 90. of the extent and quanti- ty of water in the Canadian sea, 117. of the stationary distan- ces from lake Erie to lake Huron, 191. Table Rock, near the Falls of Niagara, 166 note, 212. Thames river, U. C. 100 note : described, 20 J!. i:--;'f H: 88, 89; ained by, the Mis^ 90, 91, e ; excel- in, 108 the Oro- ih. ; con- ■izon and beauty ; effect compa- 'elaware, laPlate, antity of 17 ; tim- ; features isited by slands in se in the igation of d Ogdens- Ogdens- 125. Eitnral ad- te, 206. V the right Lawrence ctent and 7. led by the 7 the Mis- id quanti- Danadiaii ry distan- to lake Falls of 12. 100 note ; INDEX. Thousand IslandSy described, 74 ; their termination, 74; noticed, 105 note. Tonnewanta creek, its character, 154, i&.; described, 159. Toronto eliffSf 103. Treaty with several nations of savages, 196 note. TrentoHy village of, 63 ; adjacent country, ib. Tripes Bill, 4ff. Troup f Colonel Robert, 1 30. Troy, village of, 36 ; situation of, ib. I in what manner built, 37 j its environs, 38. Turkey Island, in Detroit river 193. U. tnica, village of, 42 j country be- tween and Albany, ib. and se quel ; occupies the site of Fort Schuyler, 55 ; latitude, ib. population of, 56 ; roads from, ib. Union College at Schenectady 41. r. Valleys of the St. Lawrence and Mississippi, 136 note; compa- red, 139. Venice village, 184. View near Utica, 57. — — from Newburg, 1 1 . from West Point, 12. from Fort Putpam, 14. along the Hud.son, 20. - — of the Catsbergs, from Rhinebeck, 24. View from Kingston, 26, from Hudson village, 29, from Columbiaville, 31. — — near Albany, 35. near Troy, 36. of the country adjacent to Schenectady, 39. — — near Utica, 57. — — near Geneva, 130. •— — near Canandaigua, 131. oftheFalls of Niagara, 164. from Queenstown heights, 168. from the mountains near the village of Cherry Valley, 228,. of Sacket's Harbor, xliv. ad. of the grave of Gen. Pike, ib, fV. Wdppinger^s creek, 19. fVashington, General, 14. Watertown, 67 ; adjacent coun- try, ib. Waik'in-ihe-Water, steam-boat, 173, ib. note; her first trip from Buffalo to Detroit, 173 note ; return to Buffalo, 207. Waterloo, village of, 212. West Point, 12; its local, 13; its scenery, 14, 15 ; students at, their seclusion, 1 5, F. Yates, Mr. his interesting history of Canandaigua, 132. York, city of, in Upper Canada, seat of government there, 98. tiUE ENB.