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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seui clichA, 11 est fiim6 A partir de Tangle suptrieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'Images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. by errata led to Bnt jne pelure, apon A 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 \^ UN -y^L. c cZ- /i^ „<^-''C---^-f. k " th' '» -"l^ ^y>?y A VORKSHIREMANS TRIP Tt^ Tiiii: UNITED STATES AND CANADA. ^ooks by JTilliam Smith, 5.5.21.5. AUTHOR OF A TRIP TO FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND. Post 8vo. 2S. od. loo pp. 1864 PiTM \N. DO. DO. DO. and Edition. Deiny Svo. is. 6d. 80 pp. iS65 S.Mi-^n ir' Scv. A YORKSHIREMAN'S TRIP TO ROME. Post Svo. 2S. 6d. 200 pp. 1868 Longmans. RAMBLES ABOUT MORLEY. Illuslrated. Crown Svo. 4?. cd. 200 pp. 1S66 J. R. S.MITII. HISTORY OF MORLEY. Illustrated. Demy Svo. 7s. 6d. 3CO pp. 1876 LONGMA.NS. MORLEY : ANCIENT AND MODERN. Illustrated. ,, Rvo. 6?. 6d. 340 pp. 1886 Longmans. „ 410. 12s. 6J. MY TRIP TO AMERICA. Illustrated. „ Svo. 7^. 6d. 336 pp. 1892 LdNGMAN!.. EDITOR OF OLD YORKSHIRE. Vols. 1-5. lllustrittd. „ Svo. 7s. ed. 340 ))p. each. i88:-4 LoNGM^^.s. „ 410. 15-. od. OLD YORKSHIRE. A'.^". Vols. 1-3. lllustrat<;d. „ Svo. 7s. ed. 320 pp. each. 1889-1891 LoNGMAN.s. „ 4to. 15s. od. HISTORY OF PUDSEY, by S. Ravnf.r „ Svo. 7s. 6d. 320 pp. 1S87 LoNG.MANS. ,, 4tn. 12s. 6d. REGISTERS OF TOPCLIFFE AND MORLEY. » Svo. 5s. od. 240 pp. 188S Longmans. WILLIAM SMITH, MORLEY, near LLLDS. \\n CAN.vDA, -t.ir of " Okl V-/fk»hue." ' oer, V find !; ^ i ^ -1 . - .' }j< r;-' af.mrfiAr/0xs z- index. % -^r„_.^ ?^>?voSTER ROW. 1 % V w /j aZ /■> '.^^ry^ A VOKKSIIIKHMANS TRIP \o riiK rXITI-I) ST.\TI:S AND CANADA, BY WILLIAM SMITH, L.S.A.S., Author of " Morltj ; Ancient and MoJcrii, I'rip Ic K^iiif." KJitor of " Old Vurkshiie." r_^.- jr l>Ic Royal, Thousand Islands Now llitling far away — Here. tli«re. ;uid evtrywhcre, in joyous qucsl ; Where waves beat tlicir grand chorus o'er and o'er, And Nature speaks from wood and dell and shore, (.>r, where the shadows of eternal hills Creep to and fro across tumultuous rdls. Where brain, and eye, and o'ertaxed nerve may find Pleasure in new delights, and weak mankind A welcome rot. /F/7'// 0X£ HUNDRED AAD lOKTV IL/.USTRAT/OXS d- INDEX, 3Lontion : LONGMANS, GREEN & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 1892. I ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. J Leeds ; rulnted iiy goodal.l and suddick, cookridge street, TO mv, antr ittrsi. imu iffarlcton, WIIOSK KI\n PERSIASIOX HAD ML'CIl TO DO WITH MV TAKINT. THIS TRIP TO THE STATES, A\n WHOSE GRACTOrS ENTERTAINMEN'T ANO ASSISTANCE WHILST I WAS IN THE COUNTRY, DID SO MUCH TO MAKE THE MEMORY OF THAT DELIGHTFUL VISIT A LASTING PLEASURE. Tiii£ volume here presented to the reader is in no sense to be taken as a *' book of travels," but rather as an attempt to sketch, in a lii4"ht and ch.atty manner, som2 features of American life and scenery, as they presented themselves to me during- my hasty run tb.i'oui^'h the country. I make no attempt to g"ive a detailed description of each place that I visited, with full statistics of population, school attendance, etc., all of which information may be obtained from t,nn lKIKS and other sources alreadv in existence. I have rather endeavoured to g^ive a plain, brief, and straightforward account of what I n-iyself saw, did, and heard in the New World. I am anxious that this volume should prove interesting to those pe rsons who have visited America, as well as useful to those who may be inclined to follow in my footsteps. 1 trust that nothing' I have put down in this work will be displeasing to any of those friends who showed me so much kindness and hospitality whilst in their countr}-, and if any such careless word should have found its way into the following- pages, I am sure that it is an inadvertence, and I hope that if any American should honour me by reading the book, he will consider the /(ipsits c(i/ the visit of the British Association to Montreal, but a greater interest in the country was much to be desired. A trip to Canada is now easy of attainment, and much less formidable than a trip to Rome was half a century ago. The Atlantic is now crossed with safety and comfort in a very few days, and what more interesting trip to an l^nglishman than a visit to '* Canada, the flourishing, loyal colony. with such a romantic history, — Canada, with her huge inland seas and magnificent rivers, — the highways of a vast and rapidly- increasing commerce, whose national voice icsounds over a scene as varied as it is beautiful." X. PREFACE. Duriiii;' my stay in the States, I had many pleasant communi- cations with several of its leadin«j Hterary men and women, and I trust my account of those interviews will not prove unintercstinijf to those readers who like to know something about the homes, haunts, and pcrsoucl of their favourite authors. As to the illustrations in the volume, I have every confidence that they will add materially to its value, and I would here acknowledge my great indebtedness to several American friends for the loan or gift of illustrations ; amongst others, the publishers of Friink Leslie's Illustrated Xcd'spaper. for \iews on pages 63, 64, 65. 66, and 67 ; the Matthews-Xorthrup Art Printing Co., of lUdValo, for \icws on pages 23S and 243 ; and to the Pacific Mills Corporation, Lawrence, for illustrations on pages 128, 129, 130, and 131. In conclusion, I would fain indulge the hope that this faithful reproduction of my actual experiences of travel in the States and Canada may be of more service than the passing of an idle hour in their perusal ; on the contrary, I trust that the\- may prove both interestiniif and valuable to manv of mv readers. 'f^ MoRLEV, December ist, iSgr. WILLIAM SMITH. nt communi- omen, and I unintercstiiiir t the homes, ry confidence would here m friends for publishers of aj^es 63, 64, tino- Co., of the Pacific fes 1 28, 129, this faithful ■ States and an idle hour V prove both ^ I <-»v Chapter. I. LivERPOOi. TO New York 11. New York and Brooklyn III. Boston and Sai.em lY. Lawrence and Lowell Y. IIartforo and New ILwkn ... YL Philadelphlv and Germantown VIL Baltimore and \Yashington ... YIII. Chicago and Milwa kee L\. MlNNEAl'OLIS and .St. PaUL ... X. Detroit and Chatham XI. lUiFFALO AND NIAGARA XIL Utica and Trenton Falls XIII. Toronto and Kingston XI\'. The Thousand Islands XY. Montreal AND (^uEiiix XYI. Lake George and Saratoga XYII. The Hudson River XYIII. The Journey Home I— 21 22— 72 ... 73-121 122—133 .. 134-156 157-178 ... 179—193 191 — 207 ... 208—221 222—229 ... 230—247 248—260 ... 261—267 26S— 277 ... 278—293 291—295 .. 296-305 306—308 '••f;:*}«r?<^fww'i at^miftfi' > . ^: 'fl f n ^ - M JT (C** ^5:^w^ 'r\ < .^v- .\ Al' ^>"„v,/--^'./' I. PORTRMl H. I'tiRTRAl III. Steam .Si IV. In hie J V. Under t VI. In Tin; J; VII. In the I VIII. A CORNl IX. Captain X. Statue ( XI. Bird's- F/ XII. The Hoi XIII. liRi^AinVA XIV. City II a XV. The I5ar XVI. Co I.. Wei XVII. Elevaie xvri. Metropo XIX. Lenox L XX. The To.n XXI. Urookly XXII. The Mai XXIII. Dr. John XXIV. Residenc XXV, Rksidenc XXVI. IJROOKLY XXVII. Methqui flL'C OF Will, Caui.eton I'runti.>iiiccc T ok Kichakd Sl'c.den To face page i iiii' "Majksiic" in the Mersey I Seccjnd-Ci.ass Saloon of itie "Majestic".., S he Dome in hie Saloon ok hie "Majestic"' y JAi.ooN OK iHE "Majestic" lo LlISRAKY OK THE "MajESTIC" II ER IN nil; S.MOKiNc Room ok the "Majesiic" 13 Parsei.!., R.N.K., ok the "Majestic" 15 OF LiiiKRiY, New York IIariiovr iS vr; \'iK.w oi- Xew \'ouk 20 "EI. (Ji.ERK 24 A', New York 29 LI,, New York 3' (;e Okkice, New York ... 33 her, Emicraiton Com.missioner y:i 1) Railway, New York 39 OLi'iAN Museum of Ari, New \'ork 44 ir.RARY, New York 45 lus. New York 46 N, OR l!]AST River IjRiijoe 47 LL, Central I'.vrk, New York 51 : Hali 52 :e of Cornelius Vanderihlt 53 :e of W\ II. Vanherihlt 54 N Bridge 56 ST Ei'iscoi'AL Hospital, Brooklyn Ci XIV. LIST or ILLUSTRATIONS. XXVIII. A Corner in tiik Waiting I'oom.Gkanu Central Station XXIX. Private Oittce or Ciiauncey M. Dki-fav, Do. XXX. Joks, D.D. ... LI. Co.MMONWEALTH Avenue, Boston Lll. Portrait of Oliver Wendell Holmes, LL.D. LIII. Parker House, Boston.. LIV. City Hall, Boston L\'. \'.M.C.A. Building, Bosion LVI. Portrait OF H. O. Houghton, Puin.isiiER LVII. General Office, Houghton, Mifflin, and Co LVIII. Editorial Room of the "Atlantic Monthly" ... LIX. Riverside Press, Camhridge LX. ]Mr. Houghton's Room, Park Streei' LXI. Harvard University— the Quadrangle LXII. Portrait OF II. W. Longfellow LXIII. Residence OF II. W. Longfellow LXIV. Portrait of J. G. Whittier LXV. Oak Knoll, Dan vers ... LXVI. Birthi'lacf, of Whittier LXVII. Pacific Main Mili.. Lawrence LXVIII. Si'iNNiNG Room, Lower Pacific Mills, Lawrence ... LXIX. WEA^TNG Room, Ui'per Pacific Mills, Lawrence I'AC.H. 6i 64 65 66 67 69 70 74 75 77 80 Si 83 84 «5 86 87 88 93 97 99 100 lOI 102 104 107 109 III 112 "3 114 US 116 117 118 119 123 124 128 129 130 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XV. 69 70 74 75 77 80 81 83 84 «S 86 S7 8S 93 97 99 100 lOI 102 104 107 109 III 112 113 114 116 117 118 119 123 124 »2S 128 129 130 LXX. I'ACiiic Main Mii.i,, Lawrence LXXI. TuiiMC LllJUAKY, WORCKSir.R LXXII. Richard SuGDK.N Liurary, Si encer LXXIII. A SiMSBURY Home (Residence of R. II. Ensign) LXXIV. roRTRAir oi- D. G. Mitchell (Ii: Marvel) LXXV. City Hall, Piiiladeli'Iiia LXXV'I. Portrait OK Theodore Thomas LXXV'II. Tosr Oi'FicE, PniLADELrHi.v LXXVIII. Indei'endicnce Hall, PiiiLADELriiiA LXXIX. Franklin'? Grwe, Philadelimiia LXXX. Walt Wihtm\n's Home, Camden, N.J. LXXXI. Portrait ok \Valt Whitman LXXXir. The Caimtoi., Washington LXXXni. Milwaukee in 1S36 LXXXIV. Solomon Juneau's Log Hut, 1S26 LXXXV. Court House, Milwaukee LXXXVI. Public Lihrary, Milwaukee LXXXVII. Residence ok Hon. Alexander Mijchell LXXXVHI. The Exposition Buildiniis, Milwaukee LXXXLX, (Jli) Fort Snellinc; XC. The Falls ok Minnehaha XCI. Lake Pewaukek XCir. Lake Side and CotiagI'^s XCIH. Nashotah >'iSsioN, Oi.n and New XCIV. Mountain Springs and IIoiel, Nashotah XCV. Draper Hall and Townsend House, Oconomowoc XCVI. Oconomowoc River XCVII. Leaving Chigago ... XCVHL Michigan Central Train XCIX. End View of a Vestibule C. Interior of a Dining Car CI. University of Mlthgan, Ann Akiior Cll. Bukkalo Haruouk CHI. The Soldiers' Monument, Bukkalo CIV. The American Fall, Niagara CV. The Horse Shoe Fall, Niagara .. CVI. Below the Fall, Niagara CVII. Train Passing the Falls CVIII. The Falls as seen from the Train CIX. The A.ierican Fall below Goat Island ex. The Horse Shoe Fall CXI. The Whirlpool Rapids ... I'AGI'. 131 136 140 "44 153 162 167 1 68 169 174 •75 184 200 202 203 204 205 206 210 212 241 214 216 217 218 219 223 224 225 226 227 23 > 233 237 239 240 241 2(2 243 244 245 Kil XVI. LIST OF ILLfSTRATIONS. CXI I. C.\Mii.i:\ iCR Bkiixii: CXIII. Train Passinc I-'ai.i.s \ir.\v Sim ion CXl\'. New York Ckntrai, Tour Track Koau CXV. Trenton Fai.i-s, krom riii; I'innaci.k CXVI. IIicii Falls, Trenton , CXVII. I'ART oi' High Falls, '1 .-n CXVIII. Albany CXIX. lIlUlILANUS OK TIIK HUDSON CXX. \VAsinN(iroN Bridue, near New York CXXI. Grand Central Station, New York CXXH. University, Toronto CXXHI. Four Henry, Kingston Harhour CXXIV. The Thousand Islands CXXV. The Crossmon Hotel, Alexandria h.w ... CXXVI. Isle Royal, Thcusand Islands CXXVII, Inlet to the Lake CXXYIir. Descent oe the Laciune Rai'ids CXX IX. Sr. Lawrence River Bridge, Lachink CXXX. I'l T.LIC BUILDJNCJS, MONTREAL CXXXI. Windsor Sirkei Station, Montreal CXXXII. Sleeping Car, Canadian Pacii ic Railway . CXXXIII. Canadian Pacific Hotels CXXX IV. Nei'igon an 1 1 Jackitsh Bays CXXXV. Red Rock, Nepigon Bay CXXXVI. Sault St. Marie Rapids CXXXVII. The Glaciers, Canadian Pacific Railway CXXXV I II. SARATOr.A CXXXIX. New York Central Railway, IIldson Rivl CXL. The Highlands of the Hudson CXLI. The Puoduce Exchange, New York CXLII. Portrait of William Winter rAcc. 246 247 249 253 254 ?55 257 25« 259 260 264 266 269 270 271 272 274 275 279 2Sl 2Si 2Sj 284 28s 286 287 294 297 299 302 304 • ! fAon. ... 246 , • 247 ... 249 ... 253 !•• 254 1 ... ■ ^55 • • •1 257 • . 25S ... 259 i • . 260 1 f • 264 J . . 266 1 • • • 269 .. 270 271 . 272 • •• 274 i . • 27s t«« 279 . . 281 .. 2S1 , . 28J • *• 284 . 285 !«• 286 1 . 287 ... 294 •• ■ ^^^ i ... 299 i . . 302 • *• 304 t \'»■^msf■>'■mip^■^:- * ~*urn.\ m ■-lagc .at Liverpool, in . eaci'. lir: luier that should convey m*- to ti S by mean,s •vhich 1 hopeti to reach the New VVorki. I hntl been : with a friciKl Jiving on the Che.'^Uire side of the y, and ha\inj^ delayed our .srarlitij^ until loo near the ir o( the vesf^el's departure, I w.hs only civibled at the Lo scamper en deck, when the tender moved avvav, ,-s nieanwhi'.o >\avint;f their adieus tv the friends on :.;.ort run down ihc river, to vljere onr ve;,iiel lay at d then, ourselvc'^, our luggaj^e, with soire >f the Iriv^ndi.' ^^ng^ers, were tlepc-ited en the deck ot the splendid steam . >.x/ic, of the White Star Line. Apoih.-r .spell of' .-v^ed, but when three peals of the .siiip's hell had ,. ends had barely time to hurry a-.Tt^ss the i;ao^\\a) . •■. >d and the small craft vanish.ed from the .side of cho ssel, while the waving of iiat.s and handkerchiefs coa- :i the landlnj;^ staj;e was ag"ain readied, the confusion had died away, f hastei-ed u- '"Md : ■ ■ .'"' vouid show me the "state room" which \i I Jf , >;.?>-■ .^ trUL. • lK'^%flW»-'a«'ll»'»*«*'*«*^ A YORKSIIIRF.MAN'S TRIP TO TIIK UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Chapter I. i LIVERPOOL TO NI^W YORK. PRIL Eighth. — It was in the afternoon of this watery r April day, that I found myself hurrying along' the landinjj;' 4 stage at Liverpool, in order that I might reach the tender that should convey me to the vessel by means if(S*^ of which I hoped to reach ^he New World. I had been dining with a friend living on the Cheshire side of the 'I:. 1 .f Mersey, and having delayed our starting until too near the hour of the vessel's departure, I was only enabled at the last moment to scamper on deck, when the tender moved away, the passengers meanwhile waving their adieus to the friends on shore. A short run down the river, to where our vessel lay at anchor, and then, ourselves, our luggage, with some of the friends of the passengers, were deposited on the deck of the splendid steam ship, the Majestic, of the White Star Line. Another spell of leave- taking followed, but when three peals of the ship's bell had rung out, the friends had barely time to hurry across the gangway, ere it was lifted and the small craft \anished from the side of the inonstre vessel, while the waving of hats and handkerchiefs con- tinued until the landing stage was again reached. Aftor the confusion had died away. I hastened to find the steward who could show me the " stale room" which 1 should LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. have to occupy, with two fellow travellers, during the voyage. This proved to be a most comfortable apartment, and though it was what is known as an "inside room," it was as light, as airy, and altogether as pleasant as could be wished for. The berths, or sleeping places, were of ample dimensions, well appointed with mattresses and linen, and spotlessly clean. A wash-hand stand, mirror, and a couple of life-preserving belts, made up the furniture of the room. An electric light was fixed under the ceiling, and venti- lation was obtained by means of openings over the upper berths. The ventilation is so admirably managed that one rises in the morning, free from any impression of having slept in a confined area. My next visit was to the saloon that I might secure a suitable place at the table, and this precaution, I can assure my readers, is verv necessary, inasmuch as the place assigned to you by the second steward must be retained during the voyage. Should you defer your application too long, you will in all probability find yourself located just above the screw, which at certain times will seriously interfere with your digestion and general comfort. Let me advise all who contemplate a long sea voyage to secure seats at table and sleeping berths as far as possible from the screw. I may here mention that feeding is an important item in the programme of " life at sea," and the remark of an American writer to the effect that such life consists *' mainly of the hours spent at meals with time for a little recreation between," is not so very wide of the mark. The table is a most liberal one, for, in addition to three full meals, supper is also supplied but without the formality of setting out the tables. Meal times are, however, used as pleasant opportunities for friendly intercourse. My companions at table were of the most agreeable character, and certainly the time spent at meals was devoid of dulness or cnuui. Seated at the head of the table was a Liverpool merchant whose frequent visits to the States made him an authority as to '* life at sea," and also as to life in New ^'ork and the States generally. 0\\ his right was an Australian M.L.A., who had served his adopted country as Post- master (leneral and Commissioner of Customs. He was a warm supporter of Imperial Federation fc-r the Colonies, and had spoken in favour of such a union from his place in the Senate. He had with him as travelling companion, a gentleman from Victoria, who was deputed by his Government to report upon the irrigation schemes of e\ery country he might choose to visit, and for this end he had already been to Russia, Clermany, France, Holland, etc., and was now on his way to California to inspect the successful methods of irrigation in that part of the States. Mr. Fraser expected to send in his report in the course of a few months, after ha\ing spent two years in its preparation. On the left of our president sat a gentleman from Leeds, whom 1 had known for many vears. He was on his wav to Mexico and the West Indies, A TRIP TO AMERICA. i i The rest of our company consisted of the writer, and a g-entleman from Hull with his wife and family. After dinner and when the vessel was fairly on its way, I began to take stock of my fellow passengers, and, if possible, to select from amongst the large number on board a few with whom I might venture to " scrape an acquaintance," but, being the first day, I found an. unusual amount of stiffness, but this wore off during the next twenty-four hours, and thereafter I had abundant experience of how communicative strangers can become at sea. For the next six days one could have as much pleasant converse as he wished for, and in the case of three fourths of the passengers, there was a general desire to be agreeable, and to give and receive information. Amongst the passengers was a family from Connecticut, who had been travelling in Europe for some months. They were most agreeable companions, their conversation being marked by that yfood breeding and refinement characteristic of the educated classes in their own and the neighbouring State of Massachusetts. Equally entertaining and instructive was the conversation with the family of Dr. W. H. Buck, of Brooklyn, a well known minister of the Methodist Episcopal Church. The family had been spending twelve months in Europe, visiting France, Italy, Spain, Egypt, etc., and their reminiscences of travel helped on many occasions to relieve the tedium of the voyage. The saloon passengers numbered 250, and amongst them were many who were adepts in ocean travel. One of my companions in the "state room " went on his first trip to the States in the year 1848 ; was 35 days on the sea, and paid ;^i8 for very indifferent accommodation. He had made some half score voyages to the New World since that time, and could spin long yarns as to the improvements in ocean travel. Forty years have indeed made wonderful changes in this respect, and it may be worth while to briefly note the progress which has been made since Fulton in 1807 built his steam ship The Clermont^ which, to the amazement of the people ot New York, sailed u.) the Hudson at the rate of five miles an hour, notwithstanding an adverse wind and strong current. It was not luUil 181 5 that a steamboat appeared on the Thames, and four years later the first steam-propelled vessel crossed the Atlantic. It came from Savannah, from which place it took its name. It was twenty- five days on the trip, though the usual time for one of the fast clipper ships was only from 16 to 21 days. In 1838 the mails were first sent by steam ships, and then only to Halifax and Boston, and it was not until 1848 that the mails were conveyed by steamers between Liverpool and New \'ork. Surely the record of Atlantic steam navigation, from the year 1848 to the present time, is calculated to astonish owq^ when we consider how exiraordinary LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. and rapid has been its progress. In the former year, one vessel a week from either side of the ocean was considered siifticient to meet the requirements of travellers, now theie are ninety steam ships eng-ag-ed in the Atlantic passeng-er trade. When Fulton launched the first steam sJiip, which was built by him in America, the engines being supplied by Boulton and Watt, of Birmingham, England, the voyage to America was seldom completed under thirty days, now we ''cross the ferry " under seven days. Fulton's pioneer ship was 133 feet long, 18 feet broad; and 9 feet deep ; the engine had a di.ameter of piston of 24 inches, with 4 feet stroke. The Majeslic^ which carried me out and home, is a twin screw steamer, of 9.851 tons gross, I.H.P., 17,000, 565 feet long, and breadth 57 feet 6 inches. Each screw is driven by a set of triple expansion engines with cylinders, 43, 68 and no inches, and a stroke of 60 inches. Her consumption of fuel is 300 tons per day. She has 16 boilers with 146 fires. Her screw shafts are 2 feet 9 inches in diameter and 140 feet long Her best speed ow service is a mean of 20'i8, and taking the mean of ten voyages it is i9'72 knots per hour, or upwards of 20 miles. After this digression, I return to my fellow passengers, and note that the gentlemen o\\ board comprised American and Canadian business men, including^ a party of eleven cheese factors who had been to I'^ngland to ascertain the prospects of their particular Ir.ide during the coming season ; a correspondent oi the Boston Ih'Kild : the principal of the firm of manufacturers who own the model village and works at Saltaire, in Yorkshire ; a Liverpool city councillor ; and a representative of the Religious Tract Society. The balance of the male passengers was made up of doctors, clergymen, colonels, captains, bankers, and tourists. The last named, mostly Americans, so long as sickness kept ofT, and they could find willing listeners, were untiring in their descriptions o'i the sights they had seen in the old country; in the gay capital of I'rance ; amongst the antiquities of Rome, and the historic citie o[ the land of Palestine. The shades of night had fallen upon us ere we crossed the b.u-, and the myriad lights of the great city were lost to our \iew. "The hurry and bustle of departure; the din and tvn-moil of a mighty seaport had given way to the strangely contrasting silence of a great screw steamer driving her way through an unruflled sea." April Ninth. — We arrived at Queenstown at 9.15 a.m., and as soon as our vessel was anchored about a mile from the shore, a number of small boats came alongside. These were manned by members of both sexes, and contained fruit, lace handkerchiefs, sliawls, caps, bog-oak eccentricities, blackthorn sticks and shillelaghs of all sizes. A thick rope was let down from the deck of the vessel, and the noose of the rope having- been adjusted al^out the person wishing to ascend, he or she was hoisted on board by u 1 6 A TRIP TO AMERICA. series of jerks, a distance of some ten or twelve yards. The women were evidently old hands at the game and performed the climbing feat most dexterously. No sooner were all the traders and their wares on board than the deck portion assig-ned to emigrants was literally covered with articles for sale. The women did the trading, and were energetic and noisy in their endeavours to secure customers. As we had five hours to wait for the mails a considerable number of the passengers went on shore, myself amongst the number. I was much pleased with Queenstown Harbour — the lovely Cove of Cork, where the houses rise terrace over terrace from the water's edge, and face the sunny south. On arriving- at the landing stage, I joined a party who were bent on exploring the district. We engaged an outside jaunting car, and away we trundled over a tree-shaded road, catching glimpses of wood and water, mountain and dell. As our young Irish driver, with Jehu impetuosity, is urging his steed to show off his points, for the benefit of the " English jintlemen," we are continually being accosted by boys and girls, who, starting up from the road side, carrying specimens of whin in their hands, and running by the side of the car, plead earnestly for any little gratuity we may be willing to bestow, and certainly their nimbleness, good looks, long-windedness, and stirring appeals in their native tongue, entitled them to our con- sideration, and their efforts were not in vain. One could not but notice the variety of costumes, and picturesque raggedness, as well as the good looks, pleasant wit, and readiness of repartee, of the native population of this port. After a ten miles' ride we reach Queenstown again, and dis- missing our car near the post office, we walked through the town to see the new and handsome Cathedral and other places of interest. We ascended to the highest point of the town, and were amply repaid for our exertions by the magnificent prospect we obtained of the bay and its surroundings. That island just beneath us, with the extensive Naval and Ordnance Stores, is Haulbowline. Not the least curious object on it is the tank which supplies the navy with water. It is cut in the solid rock, and though it has not been emptied since the year 1814, is cool and limpid as a mountain spring. Just beyond Haulbowline is Rocky Island, the gunpowder depot ; the store-rooms are excavated in the rock, and connected by small apertures. Farther away to the left is Spike Island, and straight before us is the lighthouse and the harbour's mouth, protected by two forts. It was a lovely day, and it was a real pleasure to look out upon that beautiful sheet of water, capable of containing the whole British Navy, stretching away like a bay before us, com- pletely sheltered and land-locked on all sides, and surrounded with bold headlands and shores ; steamers plying to and from Cork, and vessels of various tonnage, riding at anchor or flitting before the breeze. LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. We were i^Jad, however, on reaching' the hindiny^ stag-e to find the tender ready for conveying us back to the Majestic, for whilst we were walking the streets of Queenstown, beggars by the dozen beset us on every side with their incessant appeals. Crises or blessings followed, as the demands were disregarded or raet. April Tenth. — Desiring to inspect the vessel, I obtained the necessary permission from the captain, who kindly instructed one of his ofTicers to accompany me. We commenced our task by a descent of several flights of iron stairs to the engine room, the engines being deep down below the water line This accounts in a great measure for the little vibration which is felt on the vessel from the working of the powerful machinery. The ventilation of the engine room was a matter worth notice, it being perfectly cool and yet there were no unsightly appliances, for fresh air was obtained through a grating in the awning deck, whilst for the ven- tilation of the saloon, smoke room, and library, there were "shoots" carefully kept from the view of the passengers. These catch the breeze and keep the rooms delightfully cool and pleasant. I may here say that in no part of the ship during the passage did I come across that sickly, stuffy atmosphere so common in ocean steamers, and to this I attribute, in a great measure, my freedom from the least feeling of sickness, either on the outward or home- ward trip. It w ill bj pleasant information to the intending traveller to know that the engines are virtually silent, so far as the voy.'iger can tell, and also that the noisy, grating steam-steering apparatus is arranged so far away from the berths that it is no source of dis- comfort to the passengers. Below the engine-room are the boilers where an army of stokers are constantly pouring coals, at the rate of three hundred tons per day, under the sixteen boilers. From the glimpse we obtained of these men we could see that they were toiling and sweltering far below the decks to keep up the power necessary to drive the immense vessel. From the engine-room we proceeded to inspect the second- class or intermediate accommodation, which is located on the after part of the vessel. The provision for the comfort of the second- class passengers is, to our thinking, simply admirable, and with the exception of the extra gilding and lavish decoration, fully equal to the first-class. The saloon, smoking-room, state-rooms, baths and lavatories, are all fitted in the most pleasing and substantial manner, and if the very superior accommodation of this class was more widely known, I feel convinced that many more travellers would be induced to make the trip between I'^ngland and the States. As the second-class fares are onlv half the amount of the first-class, a great inducement to travel is offered to the tourist or business man. My advice to the would-be economical traveller is to visit the Majestic or Teutonic before taking his passage, and he will be surprised to find that the second-class accommodation on these 8 A TRIP TO AMERICA. vessels is far ahead of what could be found in the first-class on steamers of twenty years ago. The steeraj^e passeng-ers, of whom we had 930 on board, are \vell cared f .)r on the Majestic^ for the reason, no doubt, that they contribute ii a material degree to the financial success of the com- pany. So fa" as this vessel is concerned, the days of exposure and suffering from w-ant of shelter are at an end. The whole of the upper deck spac,„ on this, the long^est ship in the world, is reserved for steerage passei gers alone, and along each side under the bul- warks runs a shelte ed bench where they can sit in comfort. In other words, they have over a sixth of a mile of covered and shel- tered deck space, with a continuous bench the entire length. The \ \ ■ \ In the SLCoiid-class Saloon. single women are kept entirely separate, and are located in charge of a matron at the extreme after-end. A comfortable smoke-room is provided for the male passengers, and in the married people's quarters is bath room accommodation, with hot and cold water. Separate rooms for families are provided in abundance, with electric lights, perfect ventilation, and lavatories of the most approved type. Nothing seems to have been overlooked that can contribute to the health and comfort of the steerage passengers, and no doubt many of these passengers find the life on board this vessel a world of I'lidcr the Dome in ihe Sal on. 10 A TRIP TO AMERICA. luxury and cleanliness to which they have heretofore been un accustomed. Stepping on deck once more, my companion called my attention to the space for promenade afforded to saloon passengers, this being 245 feet long, by 18 feet wide, clear of the deck-houses on both sides. Generally during the day a portion of this space would be occupied by a double row of deck chairs, with their fair occupants engaged in reading, gossip, flirtation, or nursing their feelings. For a more detailed description of the other parts of the ship, I shall avail myself of information furnished by a journalist of repute. "The saloon is a banqueting hall of superb brilliancy. The style is Renaissance, and the tones ivory and gold. The length is over 60 feet, the breadth a trifle short of that measurement. Nearly all the sides of this great room, and the vast canopy which covers it, is a sea ot ivory and gold, crowned with a dome of mirrors. Bas-relief golden figures of tritons, nymphs, and other members of Neptune's court gambol in the ivory sea beside the ports, and classic ornament and electric lamps flash and glow across the ceiling. The fore and after-ends of the room exhibit fine specimens of carved oak cabinet work, and the couches and seats are sump- tuously upholstered. The ports are large and numerous, and each one is set in a deep square mounting of elaborate brass repousse work, glistening like burnished gold. At dinner, when the electric lamps are aglow, the discs of deep blue sky appearing through them, make these squares look like so many colossal jewels. In the In the Saloon, been un attention gers, this louses on ice would occupants feelings, ip, I shall )ute. icy. The ; length is t. Nearly ch covers pecimens re sump- and each repousse le electric through s. In the i2 A TRIP TO AMERICA. ornament of the ceiling you note what look like hu^c Orders of the Garter. They are open ventilators, but you would never discover the fact, because the j^litteriny^ radii o( ^lass have been so cut and arranjjfed as to produce the effect of a solid star. For the saloon passengers on the Majestic there are sumptuous apartments for eatinjj^, smoking, reading, sleeping, excellent service everywhere, and an unequalled strolling ground. " Entering from the promenade deck, and descending one flight to the upper deck, we proceed along a short corridor on the port side ; past some large state rooms, barber's shop, refresh- ment bar, we come to the smoke room. It 's difficult to conceive such a smoker's retreat outsivle Pall Mall. The extreme quiet of the decorations, the handsome lazy-looking couches, the general air of old-fashioned aristocratic comfort and luxury, the utter absence of all stiffness, render it difficult to believe one's-self in a steamer's smoke room. The woodwork is all of that particular rich, dark mahogany one sees sometimes in old mansions. The walls are covered with a richly-embossed gilt leather of a dark tone. Fitted with panels are large, bright oil paintings, represent- ing the picturesque Mediterranean shipping of the Middle Ages. Figures in high relief, carved in pear wood, fill many niches. The ceiling reproduces an extremely handsome Old English plaster pattern in quaint, variously shaped panels, and is pierced with two lanthorn lights oi stained glass. Light enters in the daytime through square windows looking o\\ the deck, screened at will with stained glass blinds, and at night streams down over the room through the lanthorn lights. 'J'his is an entirely novel and beauti- ful eft'ect, produced by placing the electric lamps at the back of the stained glass instead of in the room." The demand on the accom- modation in this room is seldom slight. " The Library, entered from near the promenade deck, is a handsome room, fitted with bookcases containing i,ooo carefully selected volumes of beautifully-bound high-class works ; and around a large oval central expanse of glass about three feet from the floor (it covers in the dome of the saloon) are arranged a number of small writing tables with a light arm- chair on either side, and a stationery rack to maintain a discreet privacy between the writers. Everything in the room is of extreme elegance, an elegance which is both more delicate and of a higher degree than men ordinarily affect. The woodwork above the couches is panelled with light oak, but this is simply so much ground on which designs are burnt and gilt and carved until it constitutes but a tint to show up the elaborate and exquisite decoration. " The main entrance to the library and saloon, the vestibules, staircases, passages, etc., are all of carved and panelled oak, with white and gold ceilings. The design on the upper panels is the famous linen pattern, with the wood carved lengthways to repre- ! lers of iho r discover cut and Lhe saloon ments for erywhere, iding' one ^rridor on p, re fresh - ) conceive e quiet of >e general the utter •i-self in a particular ons. The of a dark represent- dle Ages, hes. The sh plaster 1 with two e daytime ed at will r the room nd beauti- lack of the the accom- ide deck, ing i,ooo high-class of glass :he saloon) light arm- a discreet 3f extreme ■ a higher he couches ground on :onstitutes tion. vestibules, oak, with lels is the to repre- ti o u to c o o '-I H A TRIP TO AMERICA. sent the fold of stuff. The carving on the lower panels is more elaborate. There is a stateliness and tranquil magnificence pervading these approaches that goes well with so noble a ship. *' On the promenade deck there are four, and on the upper deck nineteen state rooms of surpassing comfort and splendour. Some of them are fitted with double bedsteads, chests of drawers, arm- chairs, writing-tables, and couches, as if cabin space was of no consequence. All are in the highest degree luxurious; the walls being covered with highly-finished decorative work, and in order to render these roonis equc;l to their beauty, the appliances for heat, light, and ventilation are in each case placed under the control of the occupant. He has but to raise his hand, and his apartment is filled with light, with warm air, or with cool air, as he may desire." Having finished our tour of the vessel, a few more general observations regarding this splendid ship, and we shall continue our description of the voyage. The Majestic is intended as a war ship, and is the second mercantile armed cruiser afloat, and can in case of necessity be mounted with twelve Armstrong guns. " Her value as a troopship is based on the following facts. She can provide accommodation for a thousand cavalry or two thousand infantry. She could reach Halifax, N.S., in five days, and Cape Town in twelve and a half days. Via Suez, she could land troops at Bombay in fourteen days, at Calcutta in seventeen and a half days, at Hong Kong in twenty-one and a half days, and at Sydney in twenty-two days. Her coal supply is sufficient for seventeen days, steaming at full speed, or for three months cruising at half speed. " People who know nothing of the journey to New York beyond the accounts they read of the Atlantic ' swell,' are often surprised how fragile women seem to dare it with tolerable im- punity. I am afraid their admiration for this particular form of courage would diminish considerably after a visit to the Majestic. With saloons and state-rooms, and of course promenade deck, absolutely amidships in a vessel but i few feet shorter than the defunct Great Eastern^ with an awning deck permanently overhead and canvas all around, with no fumes, no vibration, with perfect ventilation ai d light, with a table to satisfy an epicure, with a special pantry for the deck steward on the promenade deck, so th;it every passing fancy can be instantly satisfied on the spot ; with a ship that does not roll but stands up and spurns the hurricane ; with all these conditions in one's favour, one need not possess a very robust physique to enjoy a trip in the Majestic despite the weather." April Eleventh. — This morning was anything but inviting in its appearance. The rain was coming down in torrents, and we had a lively experience of the Atlantic " roll," and a line roll it is. At breakfast, our table had guards along the edges and down the LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. middle, to keep the plates and glasses from being- thrown off. In the forenoon, when the ladies were taking their ease on deck, swathed in wraps and waterproofs, a '' roll " of unusual dimensions came on, and some half dozen of the fair ones were pitched out of their chairs, and looked like animated mummies as they rolled over on the deck. At the same moment, the feet of three gentle- men who were parading slipped from under them, and they, too, were at once sprawling over the deck. From twelve o'clock yester- day to the same hour to day, we have made 470 miles, so that we have now covered more than a third of the distance between Liver- pool and New York. Was much in- terested during the day in notic- ing the many ex- pedients adopted by the passengers to "kill time." A m u s e m e n t i s a flo r d e d the gentlemen by the games of shuffle- boa rd, quoits, chess, draughts, cards, backgam- mon, etc., and the ladies find plea- sure in throwing Captain Parsel!. R.N.R. SWCCtS and Coius, for a scramble by the children in the steerage. The weather being- fine, we have not much sickness on board, though we have aKva\ s a few of the gentler st-x who are in that condition of helplessness which is a result of a mild attack of the /n(i/ dc vivr. This evening we had a concert in the saloon, which was very enjoyable. April Twelfth. — At 10.30 a.m. the gong was s.-^unded for Divine service, which was held in the saloon, the congregation con- sisting of a goodly number of the p.assengers. The reading-desk was placed on the end of one of the centre tables, and the red l^nion J.'ick of Hngland and the Stars and Stripes of America were laid over the desk, and very appropriate they seemed to the occasion. The beautiful and comprehensive Liturgy of the Ivstab- lisiied Church was read by a clergyman — one of the passengers, and the singing was very effective, being led by an impromptu choir of excellent voices. i6 A TRIP TO AMERICA. i1 April Thirteenth-^ — This is a glorious morning ; a clear blue sky overhead, and a calm sea all around. A purely sweet fresh air, which it is a perfect luxury to inhale, as we parade the deck in the early hours of the day, and the vessel sailing along as smoothly as if on a lake. I learn to-day that we have on board 250 saloon passengers, 50 intermediate, 930 steerage, of many nationalities, and a crew of 335 persons, making a total of 1,565 souls. This afternoon, about three o'clock, a brisk gale sprung up, and the vessel pitched along at a fearful rate, and now and again, during the evening, when the storm was at its worst, the water came over the bows, and on to the deck in hundreds of tons. The rain also came down in torrents, so that the captain with the men on the bridge had to keep vigilant watch, while the ladies had an uneasy time of it also, and were only relieved by the assurance that the storm would have spent itself ere the hour came for retiring to rest. Notwithstanding the seeming danger, the sight was a grand one. The huge seas came rolling along, and as they reach the bows the ship lifts herself, and the terrible force of the mountains of water is broken, and they go past us, with a hissing soiuul, as if of great disappointment, at not being allowed to wreak their strength upon our vessel. At nine p.m. the storm had abated, but an clement of danger still remained, for a dense fog had come on, and for several hours, after I had retired to my berth, the screeching of the fog-horn was heard, making night hideous, and bringing on that peculiar feeling of apprehension and uncertainty which must always accompany this condition of things on shipboard. So far as I could judge, and my surmise proved subsequently to be correct, the vessel was sailing ,'ilong at its utmost capacity of speed, notwithstanding the danger of collision in the darkness. But, I suppose, the opinion of experts is, that in case of collisions there is less danger in a high rate of speed than in a moderate rate, as the swifter vessel is likely to escape with the least damage, while the danger of damage to the other is not increased. It would seem that this theory is acted upon, though I am pleased to say, that we had no opportunity of proving its soundness or otherwise. There came in the early morning, a sensation of relief, when the sound of the hour-bell came upon the ear, with the cheerful cry of the watchman. "All's well!" April Folrteenth. — The sea to-day has been on its very best behaviour, and nearly the whole of the passengers have been on deck, and it was observ.\.jle that those of my companions who had succumbed to sea sickness for the first few days out, had now fully recovered, and appeared none the worse for their enforced retirement. Preparations have been going on during the day for an entertainment of vocal and instrumental music, with recitations, to be given in the saloon after dinner, and a programme of choice lear blue fresh air, ck in the smoothly ,o saloon onalities, Is. This and the d again, he water of tons, tain with ^vhile the lieved by f ere the seemini^ eas came rself, and and they itment, at Dssel. At inger still 3urs, after vas heard, feeling of Dany this ', and my as sailing le danger f experts irh rate of likely to ge to the y is acted rtunity of the early hour-bell atchman, verv best been on who had had now enforced \c day for ■citations, of choice LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. 17 ] Island li-jhthouse stands, which first now taken the pilot on board, and selections and fair proportions, is the result. After the concert ended, a number of ladies "took up the collection," and a sum of ^21 was obtained, to be divided equally between the Seamen's Orphanages of Liverpool and New York. April Fifteenth. — During the forenoon of to-day many anxious eyes were on the look-out, in order to catch a glimpse of land, and when this was sighted, a general rush was made by nearly all the passengers to the point from whence the pleasant prospect could be seen. It was the low-lying sand strip, on which the Fire met our gaze. We had after a few hours sailing, we perceived ahead of us the High- lands of the Navesink, a part of the New Jersey shore. I was now much indebted to two intelligent Americans, who busied themselves pointing out to me the various objects of interest as they came into view. With this help to a true appreciation of the different localities, and the weather everything that could be desired, no harbour could be entered under auspices more favourable, or better calculated to afford a complete and enjoyable inspection of the ever-changing panorama. The sun was in full blaze, and we could see, stretching northwards from the Navesink Highlands, a long strip of yellow sand, partly wooded, on which stood the long-looked for goal of our voyage, — the lighthouse on the narrow peninsula of Sandy Hook. As the tide was high, we had no difficulty in crossing the bar, and rounding the " Hook " we proceeded up the bay and soon anchored at the Quarantine Station. The Customs officer now came on board, and took up his position at the head of one of the dining tables in the saloon, and the passengers had each to pass before him and sign a declaration that he or she had nothing liable to duty. After a delay of nearly two hours, we started on the last portion of our voyage, and now there opened up to our view one of the grandest harbours in the world ; indeed, it is averred that the Bay of Naples and the Bay of Rio Janeiro are the only harbours that rival that of New York. It is a triangular sheet of water, from nine to twelve miles on each side, and almost completely land-locked. On the north-western boundary of the bay we saw the green hills of Staten Island, studded with villas and graced with luxuriant foliage. Northward, we could discern the narrow entrance to the inner harbour, which may be likened to a gateway from the sea, whilst on either hand, as sentinels to guard the pass, are For*^s Wadsworth and Tompkins. We are now able to see, in the far distance, the spires of the city ; the fleets of vessels which are within its docks, and, on our right, the long and level sandy strip oi' Coney Island, with the elephant, and the apparently interminable stretch of hotels and other buildings which crowd the foreshore of this place, — the playground of the metropolis. P t8 A TRIP TO AMERICA. The waters of the bay bear a multitude of vessels, darting hither and thither at a great speed, and the incessant motion of the craft on the water is extremely interesting. This magnificent Lower Bay, could, if required, accommodate the navies of the whole world, having an anchorage ground covering eighty-eight square miles, whilst the inner harbour is an oval-shaped body of water, five miles broad and eight miles long. Above the forts already referred to, we saw the American Standard floating, our first introduction to the Stars and Stripes. Whilst the forts look comparatively tame, from a warlike point of view, we could make out a few insignificant looking black guns, having their muzzles Siaiue of Liberty. out between the grass-covered mounds surmounting the inter- vening casements. We now pass the forts and steam up the expanding waters of the Upper Bay, and the picture becomes more and more striking. Right in front is the colossal statue of "Liberty Enlightening the World," a majestic female figure made of copper, 151 feet high, standing on a pedestal 155 feet high. This beautiful monument, situated on Bedloe's Lsland, seems at first sight of no unusual dimensions, but as we get nearei to it, it gradually grows into gigantic proportions. The statue was modelled by Bartholdi, a French sculptor, and was a gift to the American nation bv the French people. In the right hand of the LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. 19 , darting on of the Lgnificent s of the hty-eight I body of the forts ting, our *orts look uld make r muzzles figure, held alott, is a torch, lighted at night by electricity, and in the left hand is the Constitution. The statue and pedestal cost £2 the inter- m up the )mes more statue of ure made feet higli. seems at et to it, it atue was ft to the Lnd of the 00,000. We are now fairly within the haven, and the vast commerce of the city is in full view. The scene is one never to be forgotten, whei» once gazed upon, and gives a zest to the anticipations of the traveller on his first visit to the New World. On our right hand is the Long Island shore, with its pretty villas standing behind their screens of foliage. On the left hand are the hills of Staten Island, crowned with elegant mansions, while below these, lining the edge of the bay, are prosperous looking villages. The water at this moment presents a lively and ever changing pleasure scene Ocean steamers ; ferry boats of gigantic proportions and curious con- struction, to English notions; steam tugs of no special attraction in build ; large and stately steamboats, with cabins tier above tier ; graceful pleasure yachts ; tall-masted and broad-sailed schooners ; tiny cobbles, with fleets of vessels anchored near the wharves, are scattered over the wide expanse. Beyond these can be seen the distant cities of Hoboken, New York, and Brooklyn. We now pass on our left the villages of Clifton and Stapleton, with their fleet of yachts, and on our right, the thickly-populated shores which form the cove known as Gowann's Bay. We are now nearing the Liberty Statue and Governor's Island, with its antique circular stone fort, known as "Castle William." This is the head- quarters of an important branch of the American Army, the '* Militaiy Division of the Atlantic." Rounding the corner named " Red Mook" we come upon the East River, which runs between New York and Brooklyn, and from this point wc get a splendid view of the magnificent Brooklyn Bridge, of which we shall have more to say anon. Entering the Hudson river, we catch a passing glimpse of Broadway, that wonderful thoroughfare, which stretches right through the centre of the island on which New York stands. Two large buildings, right in front of us, now arrest our attention, and we learn that the one with the big square tower is the Produce Exchange, and the other, with its fifteen stories, is known as the Washington Building. Between these immense structures is the Bowling Green, and the granite structure known as Castle Garden is close at hand. We now pass the docks, with their long projecting piers covered with substantial sheds. Passing slowly between these we notice the numerous ocean steamships, or large river steamboats, which are in the docks, and then, pleasantest sight of all, we reach the pier which terminates our voyage. Whilst our vessel is grace- fully floating into her berth, we observe on the 'pier, amongst the crowd, one face which is quite familiar, and which has had much to do with our taking this long journey. A few minutes more, and the 1 >lliilililii'i till' I'liii'iiW •"i'i''fl' "ill""" ! • '''i'|i I'ir "«iv ' ■ r .<■• 'liif 1?^^ "'"■ ■ ' 11 {I ' ■ ■ ■■ l!Ly.l'i'r''fV'i' ,"'i'*;;J.j'l i[i;i|- '■: '. U Vii! iV! lii'Wiwilr"'! /i'''W / (■ 'iiti i 111: ||H'#( ' mmm-' a; ■i I'll ■!■:; ui !'i!i4n.;;'f ''i;i,M?'V";;::;:i;iiv ;.,!*.: ii'i. . m> '« il,!:' i.wM I i,,.r.l ,1!' mfi mWiM) ^M' i!! 'r|i|^l:i^:.''ii!i lilf • j o o r- J LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. 21 o o pa gfang^-planks are fixed, and we are soon exchanging greetings with friends who have come to welcome our arrival. The Customs officers now appear upon the scene, and discharge their task, so far as I can see, and from my own experience, in a civil, respectful, and prompt manner. Having given my luggage to one of the "Express" agents, myself and my son went to the hotel which he had selected as our resting place for a brief period. I was now at liberty to commence my explorations of this wonderful city. u ^ i;^ - i Chapter II. NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. Y short stay in New York was made very pleasant by "l the most courteous and unostentatious hospitahty. The first intimation I had of this was given to me ^ soon after I hmded, when a letter was placed in my hands saying- that a temporary home was awaiting me in Brooklyn, and had been for years, and my taking posses- sion was anxiously looked for. I had been told long before I left England, by warm-hearted friends in New York, that whenever I should visit the States I might expect to have "a real good time." What was included in that ex^rressive Americanism I did not then understand, but having exper. meed the " time," I may add that not only during my stay in New 'oik and Brooklyn, but all through the States and Canada, everything was done for me that could contribute to redeem that promise. My son having arranged for us to stay at the Cosmopolitan Hotel, in Chambers Street, off Broadway, we made our way as best we could to that establishment. It was no easy task, for the streets we had to pass along were all but impassable from the roadways being choked up with heavy drays, trucks, baggage and freight wagons, and the quantity of merchandise of all sorts which covered the foot-pavements and drove us into the roadway, where the paving was of the most execrable character. We pass on our way liquor " saloons " in abundance ; the Elevated railway, with the trains speeding swiftly away overhead — a strange sight to an Englishman ; telegraph and telephone poles, inartistic and unsightly in the extreme ; across tramcar lines, wondering how the cars keep on the track with such an uneven surface to travel upon. We ^o along streets where are tall tenement houses, showing where the poorer portion of the population live in a condition of semi-squalor, which is not conducive either to health or morality. The streets were overrun with the children of those unfortunates whose dreary lot it is to spend their lives i.x such f NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 23 r man travel louses, ; in a health those .1 such unf leasant surroundinj^s. High up across these streets the family wash was swaying to and fro in the breeze, the clothes line.' stretching from window to window. In front of these homes, if they may be called such, were the balcony fire-escape ladders, which, useful as they may be in case of fire, are no adornment to the buildings, but positively unsightly. Of their usefulness there can be no question, being generally the only means of escape in case of sudden fire. The ''Cosmopolitan" is, to all intents and purposes, a typical American hotel, though not on so grand a scale as the monstre establishments on the Fifth Avenue and Broadway. Hotel life in America is on different lines altogether from those of any other country. In European countries, hotels, as a rule, are for the use of travellers only, but in the New World they are the only homes a large number of the people are acquainted with. A large proportion of newly-married persons take up their residence in hotels in preference to having the expense of fitting up a house, and the cares of housekeeping. The reason for this is said to be that the men are not so fixed in their employment in America as elsewhere, and removal to another and perhaps far distant part of the country is much easier effected when there is no home to break up. Also, many young people marry before they have saved up money sufficient to furnish a home, and though this would in England be deemed to be a very imprudent course of action, it is not looked upon in this light by our friends across the water. It has been justly said that " New York is 1 city of parodoxes. It is full of palatial dwellings and homeless people — the most hopelessly homeless living not unfrequently in the bravest houses, and paying for unsocial subsistence a price that under a wiser system might give them every domestic comfort the heart could wish." To an Englishman, whose house is his castle, the manner of living adopted by great numbers of the inhabitants of New York violates the very first require ents of the life the English affect, namely, individual privacy ai.J family seclusion. I had not very much experience of Ap:erican hotels, not having spent more than six nights in them, during my stay in the country. But I was desirous to see the interior v.orking of some of the larger and more fashionable establishments, and I had my curiosity gratified when visiting the "Hoffman" and "Fifth Avenue" hotels in New York, the " Auditorium" in Chicago, the "Grand Union " in Saratoga, and the " Windsor " in Montreal. Once located in any of these palatial buildings you may find every convenience, and do anything you like without going out. You can read off the tape all the latest transactions in Wall Street or the European exchanges ; you can telegraph all over the world ; you can buy railway tickets to any part of the States, and send your luggage by "express" ; you can buy all the newspapers ; you can secure your seats at any of the theatres ; you can buy a cigar 1^ li I 24 A TRIP TO AMERICA. at the stand and smoke it ; and you can get any drink that was ever concocted at the bar. At more than one of the hotels above named, a clothing- store, a hosiery establishment, and a chemist's shop are all connected with the place, so that if you find on your arrival that the cut of your clothes is not in the prevailing- fashion, you can be " fixed'' in the latest style, at a short notice ; if your hair is not up to New York pattern, the barber is at hand, and you can be shaved, have your hair cut, your moustache dyed, your eyebrows painted, and your ears syring-ed ; if you do not care to incur the serious expense of sending to the wash, you . ^_ can buy un- derclothingf, shirts and socks, cravats and gloves ; you can sport boots of the most appro- ved pattern, I and one of [ Knox's latest hats; and you can buy a bottle of per- fume, a box of Carter's Little Liver Pills, or a j bottle of ' Hood's Sar- s ap a r i 1 1 a, with equal ease, — all without setting your foot out of doors. You can enter the hotel a seedy, travel-stained Englishman, and emerge a well-dressed, quasi-American, ready for opera, concert, or social reunion, for walking, riding, driving, or promenading. On my visit to the largest of these caravansaries, I looked with something akin to awe upon that mysterious individual, the hotel clerk, who, I had been informed, was a walking encyclopoedia, directory, railway, steamship, and postal guide, in fact, a universal fountain of knowledge and information. I had been given to understand that he, in common with his confreres^ was a haughty and unapproachable despot, who, in the most supercilious manner, assigned travellers, at his will, to most uninviting quarters. I found him, and others of his class, to be the very reverse of all this, and when I visited their hotels merely on a tour of inspection, they were the most good natured and accommodating of mortals, answering my every enquiry with the greatest politeness. From The Hotel Clerk. NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. looked |al, the loedia, Iversal ren to [ughty inner, irs. I of all [ction, )rtals, IFrom the casual observations I was enabled to make, I should not be surprised if at times they were inclined to be despotic, for they arc bored with most unanswerable questions, they are expected to be pleasant under most trying circumstances, to remember everybody staying in the hotel by name, and all their peculiarities and eccen- tricities, to give everyone the best room, and to lend a willing and sympathetic ear to every traveller who is in distress, or imagines that he is. On the ground floor, as you enter an American hotel, is a large marble-paved entrance hall. A few negroes are lounging about, waiting to carry off any luggage the traveller may have in his possession. Part of the immense space is occupied by a counter, behind which is the gentleman who decides your destiny, so far as it relates to the position which you shall occupy within his domain. As it is said that " upon the benignity of his rule the comfort of the guests and the well-being of the house are in a great measure dependent," it is well to bear this in mind in your intercourse with the great man, and my advice is, always be on good terms with the hotel clerk, for he is undoubtedly a power, and can make or mar you. Before he can do anything in the way of receiving you as a guest you must inscribe your name and residence in the ponderous visitors' book, which is placed before you on a mahogany pivoted desk. Then you are handed over to an ebony attendant, who conducts you to your room ; it may be in a " garret near the sky," for many of these hotels are from five to ten stories in height, and as the rooms "above" are equally as comfortable as the rooms " below," it is only a question of entering the lift, or "elevator," as it is called, and being whisked upwards to your destination in a few moments. The remainder of the entrance hall is occupied by knots of gentlemen, sitting and standing, smoking and chatting, surrounded by spittoons of enormous size, generally made of brass ; a more useful or more indispensable article of furniture it would be diflicult to name, for the American, whether smoking or chewing, expectorates profusely ; and, speaking of this habit. I met with it almost everywhere in the States, and at times under somewhat trying circumstances. Rounc* the hall are situated the barber's shop, news stall, cigar store, boot-blacking room, telegraph and telephone offices, smoke room, and writing room. On the first floor aie the reception, drawing, and ladies' rooms. To my mind, the vastness of the American hotels takes away all feeling of comfort and cosiness, and I would sooner spend a week in an old- fashioned English country hostelry, where the comfort of the guests is the paramount consiaeiaiion, than spend the same period of time in one of these huge buildings, wher3 your personality is altogether ignored, and like the inmates of some government establishments in the old country, you are only recognised by the number you happen to bear. ; A TRIP TO AMERICA. Travellers from many countries, with whom I came in contact, spoke well of the manag"ement of the American hotels, the excel- lence of the table, the quality of the food, and superior bedroom accommodation The " American plan " as to charjj^es is a fixed price for bedroom and three consecutive meals per day. This enables an l!!n^lishman to avoid a species of black mailing- to which he has a decided objection, namely, the charj^es which come under the comprehensive phrase of "extras." For three meals and a bedroom the prices all over the States vary from 12s. to 25s. per day. The difl'erence in price depends upon the class of hotel and the situation of the bedroom ; the meals being- the same in all cases. Having entered your name in the visitors' book, it ii> well to have an understanding what is the rate at which you will have to pay There is a story told of an Englishman, though I feel sure that he was not a \'orkshireman, who had a lively experience imder the " American plan," and as the story gives some insight into the ample provision made in the cuisine department of the American hotels, I will reproduce it. It is said that an English- man " arrived at the ' Fifty-fifth Avenue Hotel ' after a rough passage over ; feeling a powerful appetite he looked at the pro- gramme and noted the hours for meals ; he observed that breakfast was served from seven to eleven o'clock, lunch from one to two, dinner {a la carte) from two to five, dinner {table d'hote) at half-past five, tea from six to nine, and supper from nine to twelve — seventeen hours of copious refreshment. The new arrival, after careful consideration, struck out a plan of action. He was not a mean man, but thought himself bound to get the better of the hotel proprietor. He was up soon after seven in the morning only with the appetite of a cormorant who had swallowed a bottle of Angostura bitters. "Being properly posted, he began with a melon with pepper and salt, and a few tomatoes cut up with cucumber and onion, and then took kindly to his hot rolls, his Graham bread, a slice of Spanish mackerel, a bit of beefsteak, a few eggs an viiroir^ a little broiled ham and some fried potatoes, a taste of smoked beef and eggs and a broiled chicken — winding up the whole performance with a heap of rice cakes, a couple of peaches, tea, coffee, and other fixings. He walked down town in high glee, and came up smiling to lunch, making awful havoc among the raw oysters and the stewed oysters, the fried oysters and the pickled oysters, the cold chicken, ham, and tongue. At dinner he was again to the fore, looking happy and hungry, but was rather streaked at the bill of fare, which included two soups, two fishes, seven cold dishes, six relevds, ten entrees^ seven roasts, eighteen vegetables, nine varieties of pastry, eleven kinds of fruit, lemon and rum ice, creams and coTee. He was equal to the occasion ; beginning gently with tomato soup, he next attacked the boiled bass and the broiled white-fish, and aftsr a n NEW YORK ANP BROOKl.VX. ontact, J excel- :;droom a fixed . This linj^ to h come ; meals to 25s. of hotel le in all is well have to eel sure )erience insight of the inglish- L rouj^h he pro- :d that -om one ? d'hote) nine to arrival, He was letter of norning bottle »per and id then Spanish broiled gs and a heap ixings. lunch, ysters, m, and 3y and eluded entrees^ eleven ie was le next aftar a little boiled chicken and ham fell upon the entrees like a lion. He despatched in quick succession fillet of beef larded, with mush- rooms, oyster patties, sweetbreads with green peas, lobster a la I'dleneiennes, and rice birds in cases with champagne sauce, roast turkey poult and roast grouse, followed by lobster salad. .\t intervals my friend tasted at my solicitation sundry of our national vegetables, such as green corn, baked and stewed tomatoes, red beets, succotash, sweet potatoes, squash, Lima beans, and fried egg-plant. Through all this he worked heroically, but weakened on the pastry, paying little or no attention to the peach pie, the orange pie, the ' punkin ' pie, the sliced-apple pie — we are great on pies in my country —the puffs and jellies and custards ; but brightened up at dessert among the grapes and raisins, luiglish walnuts and American pecan nuts, citron melons and rosy-hearted water melons. He pulled through, he did, and arrived at the ice cream and coffee, tired perhaps, but not cloyed. As we did not get through dinner till about seven o'clock, he had only lime to get a cup of tea and a slice of cake in the tea-room before we went to Booth's. After the theatre he showed up, but with diminished vigour, at supper a'Mong the cold chickens and ham, the cold tongue, and the oysters hot and cold, raw and fried ; and then owned up fair and square that no such board and lodging could be got anywhere else in the world for the same money -about 13s. or 14s. a day all told, and no extras." One feature of American hotels is very praiseworthy, namely, that there is little apparent drinking in them. It is the exception, not the rule, to see wine or beer taken at meals, and in this con- nection I may add that open intemperance in the States is far less observable than in our own country. Gin drinking and sherry- cobbling are vulgarities confined to the bar-room, which is generally kept out of sight, in the ground-floor. The very first thing placed before a guest in every hotel and restaurant is a glass of iced water, and in the hot weather I experienced immediately on my arrival in the country, the thermometer registering 80" in the shade, this cold beverage was very acceptable. Iced water is pro- vided in abundance in every railway carriage and station, and in the hotels you can obtain iced tea, iced milk, and a variety of other drinks, treated in a similar way. The strawberries I had for dessert on many occasions, with sugar and iced cream, were very pleasant and refreshing ; also a tumbler of milk, with a piece of ice in it, was a luxury after breakfast or tea. After luncheon we took a stroll along Broadway, the principal street of New York, and a splendid thoroughfare it is. We went towards the Battery, passing the Post Office and many other important public buildings. We looked in at Trinity Church, the Westminster Abbey of New York, a most interesting sanctuary. The parish is the richest in America, having revenues of ;£,"ioo,ooo ! ?8 A TRIP TO AMERICA. a year. It was founded in 1697, receiving from the English Government a grant of its present site. Some singular gifts have been given to it, from time to time. It received a fund for reliev- ing Christian slaves out of Salee ; was granted all wrecks and drift whales on the island of Nassr^u, and the communion services were given by William and Mary, and King George. The present church was built in iS^T, and is a handsome specimen of Gothic architecture. It was a wonderful contrast, to step from the uproar and turmoil of the busy street, and find ourselves in this quiet spot, from whence the stillness was only broken by the hushed and apparently distant rumbling of the incessant traffic in Broadway, The gray tint of the groined roof, and the rows of carved Gothic columns, mellowed by the subdued daylight which comes through the stained glass windows, and the altar and reredos, both exceed- ingly beautiful, form r.n artistic effect well worthy of our admira- tion. We spent a shod time in the ancient churchyard, where are to be seen many memorials of interest. Here is the tomb of Captain Lawrence, whose last words, as he lay on the bloody deck of the Chesapeake, " Don't give up the ship," is a well-known lesson in American history Another striking monument is erected to the memory of " Patriotic Americans who died during the Revolution in British prisons." In walking around this "God's Acre," we were forcibly reminded of similar resting-places in the old country, for we were surrounded by many venerable moss-covered tomb- stones, with their ancient inscriptions, some of them very quaint and curious, appealing to our antiquarian sympathies. The situation of the graveyard is somewhat unusual, being close to the fevered life of the street — the great artery of New York life and traffic. We next visited St. Paul's Church, in Vesey Street, and were surprised to find the interior quaint and old-fashioned to a degree. We had pointed out to us the pew of Washington, marked with his initials. Dr. Auchmuty used to read prayers for the King in the chancel, until the drummers of the American garrison beat him down with the long roll in the central aisle. W'e saw in the grave- yard the monuments to Emmett, the Irish patriot, and (ieorge Frederick Cooke, the celebrated English actor. The monument to Cooke was built at the expense of the great Edmund Kean, and has since been restored by Charles Kean, and luhvard Sothern, the well-known comedian. Proceeding on our way, we cannot but notice the many varieties of street architecture, for, although new enough, they are worthy of admiration. There is certainly sufficient variety in styles and material to suit all tastes— edifices in marble, in iron, in free- stone, in granite, in brick ; edifices in tlie h^gyptian. in the Greek, in the Norman, in the Gothic, in the Renaissance, in the Italian, ami in unknown styles. luiuall}' noticeable with the architecture is the appearance of uni\ers'il activity, for the roadway is so were legree. th \vi .injj;' in at him ^rave- ^ieorg'e hcnt to 1 has hi, the many are ey ,tvl fr es cc- rreek, lan, tal lecture V. te IS so \o A TRIP TO AMERICA. I I packed with carriaj^es, drays, trucks, cars and other vehicles, and the pavements so thronged with a hurrying-, bustling concourse of people, that one soon realizes the fact that New Y'ork is not a place in which to be idle. The street was, indeed, so dangeiously crowded with traffic, that it would seem as if accidents must be of frequent occurrence. The aspect of Broadway at this point, I was informed, may be taken as a true key to the character of its popu- lation as a most energetic and restless people. As we continue our walk the traffic becomes less in volume, and the street soon comes to the Bowling Green, a triangular space about half an acre in extent, having a small oval park and fountain in the centre. This place, in the old Colonial days, was the Court end of the town, surrounded by the residences of the proudest of the Knickerbockers. On the site of the Washington I3uilding, in 1760, a collector of the port built a large house, which afterwards became the headquarters of Lords Cornwallis and Howe, Sir Henry- Clinton and George Washington. Here also Talleyrand made his home. The space to the southward, now a row of old-fashioned houses, was the site of the old Fort Amsterdam and Fort Coorge, the official residence of the Dutch and British Governors. On our return walk we made a detour into Wall Street, and saw the Custom House, with its long granite colonnade, where the Government collects the largest part of its revenues. We are now in the financial centre of the Republic, but the stress and strain which is to be met with here during the early part of the day have ceased, and the street is comparatively deserted. The stately United States Treasury is a fine building on the site of the hall in which Washington was inaugurated first President of the United States. It is built in partial imitation of the Parthenon at Athens ; is of marble, with granite roof. It took eight years in building, and cost ;;£j"4oo,ooo. Returning to Broadway, the immense buildings of the Bank of the Republic, the Metropolitan Bank, and the Equitable Life Insurance Company are passed ; also the magnificent ten-story edifice of the Western L^nion Telegraph Company, with its tower 230 feet above the pavement. A few steps further bring us to the Post Office, a granite structure of immense size, costing ;i{^i,400,ooo, and whose broad surmounting dome and tower make it a landmark for miles around. The granite columns and blocks in this erection were cut and carved ready for their places by 600 men at Dix Island, on the coast of Maine, and the building is said to be absolutely incombustible. We are now in City Hall Park, a triangular space, on which stands the Court House a massive Corinthian structure, which has attained no little notoriety as the building used by the "Tweed Ring," wlilch goxerned New York twenty years ago, for extracting ^,3,000,000 froni the Treasury on fraudulent bills. • NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN*. 3t The City Hall is also in the Park, a much older and less pretentious building" than its nei^^hbour, constructed of white marble. We made an inspection of the interior, and saw the Governor's room, which is adorned with portraits of the Governors of New York, and Revolutionary heroes, also a fine portrait of Columbus. We saw, too. Washing-ton's desk and chair, which he used when President. Having dined at our hotel, we spent the remainder of the evening in a visit to Barnum and Bailey's "Greatest Show on Earth," and were much amused and enter- tained by the performances. 111 :^t;^vt^ »g^' Ciiy Hall. April Sixteenth. - This morning we went to the Barge Oflice, near the Public Park, a popular recreation ground, thirty-one acres in extent, nicely laid out,- well shaded, and open to all the sea breezes. The Barge Ofiicc, though erected for Customs require- ments, is also used as the depot for landing of immigrants, until the new buildings on l*!llis Island are completed. Into this spacious building all the immigrants are brought and cared for until they leave New York. Sometimes as manv as 25,000 new arrivals are brought in one week. We were . anxious to look over the depot, for we had been informed that it was one of the " siglits " that should not be missed. We went to the entrance, and enquired of the janitor if we might be allowed to inspect the different depart- ments, but we were met with a peremptory refusal. We then asked if a permit could not be obtained from some authority, but we were again informed that admittance was not granted io strangers. .As a last resource, I intimated that it was my intention 32 A TRIP TO AMERICA. to give in account of my visit to the States, and the emigrant depot was one of the phices I should like to say something about. This had the desired effect, and an intelligent official was placed at our service, to explain the modus operandi of the reception and distribution of the arrivals. We were conducted to the landing stage, vvhere twelve hundred immigrants were leaving the tug which had brought them from the ocean steamship. They were at once passed on, in single file, into the registry department. This was slow work; as a record was taken of each person The record includes the name, age, class, nativity, destinatio.i occupation, amount of money brought, and an answer to the question whether the immigrant had ever been in a workhouse or prison, or is under contract to work in the States. The registering officers are wonderfully expert, and can with almost unerring certainty detect objectionable immigrants. When- ever a doubt arises regarding the truthfulness of the answers given, the immigrant is compelled to m«ke oath to his or her statement. When it is borne in mind that from 3,000 to 4,000 immigrants land in a single day, one may obtain an idea of the expedition and celerity with which the work is performed. Any suspects who fall to pass muster are " sent inside" at once for further examination. This means that they are sent to a separate enclosure, where they are detained until their statements can be verified. If, for instance, an immigrant who seems to be too old to be self-supporting is " sent inside," and there informs the officer that he has a relative who will support him, he is asked for the address of that relative, and a telegram is immediately sent to the latter notifying him of the arrival of the immigrant. If a satisfactory response is received the detained immigrant is permitted to proceed, but only when his statements have been verified. Again, if an infirm person appears and no one claims him, he is detained until some one appears who is willing to give bonds that he shall not become a public charge. All the cases not thus disposed of are finally sent to Colonel Weber for decision. Affidavits are taken, and when it is found that the persons are not self-supporting, or that they are objectionable for any reason, they are returned to the steamer which brought them and sent back. Out of sixty thousand arrivals during April and May, 1891, about one per cent., or six hundred, were returned. Nearly all of these were Italians, probably nearly ninety-five per cent They were mostly returned because they were without means, over age, or decrepit. One can readily see that in such an office, where no fixed rules exist, judgment and discretion must prevail. And the judgment must be very prompt, as detained immigrants must be sent back on the steamers that bring them, and these steamers seldom stay in port longer than three or four days. If there were delays in the igrant ibout. ced at 11 and nding e tuj,^ 'ere at This record )ation, hether under n with When- ; given, ement. ts land 3n and at once It to a ements to be ms the ed for ient to If a mittcd |im, he bonds )t thus [cision. lire not \n, they back, about these were igc, or d rules Igment lack on Itay in lin the NEW YORK AXn BROOKLYN. 33 adjudication of cases, the limited quarters of the Barge OfTice would speedily be overcrowded, and the Government would be obliged either to release the detained persons or support them for an indefinite period. As steamers land on all days, Sundays included, there is a constant rush of work, and particularly a rush at this season of the year, for the largest immigration is between the first of April and the first of June. Every accommodation is given the immigrants that can possi- bly be provided in the limited quarters of the Barge Ofiice. The various railroad companies have their agents to sell tickets, provisions of the plainest kind are sold at fixed prices, and an ofllce The na i-^re GlTii n lor the sale of postal orders and postage stamps, as well as a ofilce for the exchange of money, is furnished. The rates ol exchange are fixed daily. The Italians, I was informed, bring the most vices and the least cash. The Germans are the most thrifty. There were over 200,000 transactions at the ICxchange ofiice during 1S90, and only three complaints were made, all of which were roadilv adjusted. The American system of checking baggage is also utilized, and thou! fh early a quarter of a million of pieces were handled durinj^ 1S90, only Wvc pieces went astray. From conversations I had with persons who take an interest in the immigration question, I learnt that large numbers of people who come to the country to seek a living, dj not succeed 13 34 A TRIP TO AMERICA. because they plunge into things of which they have no knowledge or physical acl;»p<^abilii^y, ^»"« ' by far too many clerks, shop assist- ants, and know-nothings arrive at the Barge Oflice, wlien only first-class workmen and female servants are really wanted. The last-named easily find places at good wages. But, as to wages, I would warn intending emigrants that "all is not gold that glitters," and it is well to remember that the value of a man's earnings is not the amount he receives, but the purchasmg power of that sum. Though under the system of protection they claim to pay high wages in America, yet, on the other hand, living is much higher, and the strangest thing is that American produce, of better quality than is to be had in New York, can be bought cheaper in liingland than in the States. Then taxes are high and. plentiful, for there is a poll tax of two to three dollars per annum ; a tax on household furniture, and property in the city pays two taxes, one to the city and the other to the state and country. And rents in the country are also very much higher than in lilngland. Another thing to be remembered is that a workman is not expected to shuflle or loiter at his empl. /ment ; everything is go ahead, and there is no weekly half-holiday, and very few regular holidays. And yet, I was told, and can readily believe it, that the road to success in America, though uphill it may be for a time, will, if the man has grit to hold on, lead to success, but this means work, work, and still work, and careful watching at all points, with strict temperance habits. I was told further that a person given to drinking has no chance whatever, but to a steady, sober man wishing to work, there is a good prospect of his being able to better his condition, and even- tually make a good position for himself. During my visit to the States I found that there existed a wide spread desire for the adoption of some legislation by which the immigration from Europe could be restricted, but no feasible plan seemed to be hit upon. Some newspapers suggested that an education test should be applied, under which all immigrants should be required to be able to read and write the luiglish language. Others suggested the imposition of a heavy head tax, and still another proposed that all immigrants should be required to possess a certificate of good moral character ; and it was also mooted that they should have a monetary qualification of ;^'ioo. None of these propositions would answer the purpose, except so far as to almost put a stop to immigration, for under the educational test it would be confined to British subjects, and under the head tax, and mone- tary qualification, nine-tenths of the best class of immigrants would be excluded. To my minu, the existing laws, as explained to me by our cicerone at the Barge oifice, are quite sufiicient to keep away undesirable arrivals. These laws proxide for the exclusion of all persons who have been convicted of .an}' ofl"ence invoking moral turpitude, all persons who are likely to become a public charge, ti a I til B i-n in /ledge Eissist- I only The tges, I^ itters, ■iis not : sum. y liigl"* ligher, quality n gland Lhcre is isehold he city :ountry r to be r loiter weekly as told, Lmerica, to hold II work, habits, chance ere is a d even- xisted a which feasible that an should hguage. uid still I possess [cd that lof these almost would II mone- |s would to me Lo keep lision of [r moral (charge, I NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 35 and all persons who are afflicted with any dangerous disease. It seems as though these restrictions would insure that all the immigrants would be healthy, industrious, respectable, and these are as good qualifications as anyone might be expected to possess. Still my informant said that the question of immigration was becoming a serious one, and ivouhi have to be dealt with in some practical way. He further said that more than half a million immigrants would land in the United States this year, and I could not help expressing my astonishment as to where and how they could all find means of subsistence, and that too, in a majority of cases, directly after their arrival, for certainly the bulk of those I saw land on this occasion, as also the thousand emigrants who came over with us on the Majestic, appeared to be very poor indeed. A writer has well said that " a visit to the Barge office is a revelation. Here can be found the rarest opportuni- ties for the exercise ot religious, philan- thropic, and charit- able effort. Here is the beginning of citizenship, the foundation of the future. ,mes o f anxiety and hope are seen on every face. The young and the aged, the ^^^^^^^- strong m:ui and the weak, crowd at the gate of opportu- nity, waiting for an entrance. Th Col. Weber. thin e soe- fnid that, tiioii<.,'h several \ears liad passed since I last saw the preacher, in my own home in ^'or!^.- shire, he v, as looking" as though time was dealing \cry gently with him. There was the same leonine head, with its wealth o\' gray hair, perhaps a shade whiter, and there was also the broad, ^ood natured, completely human face, which it does one ^ood to look at, as beingf the countenance of a man whom even a little child could trust implicitly. Dr. Collyer is indeed one of the noblest and one of the gentlest of men. He has the delicacy of a woman, and the strength of a man. His [jhysique is magnificent, large, and well-proportioned, and as I have already intimated, with a fine, manly face, full of expression. As all who have ever come in contact with the Doctor will know, he is a ready and interesting coiiver..ationist, bright, full o( anecdote, and abounding in illustrations and quotations of the most apropos kind. His wide reading, large experience of life, and constant association with men and women of superior culture and education, furnish him with choice materials for conversation, which he knows how to use with telling effect. To a brother Yorkshireman, he is a mine of information, for though at so great a distance from the "county of broad acres," there is little of real interest that passes within its borders of which he is not cognizant. I "guess" there are not many, even amongst scholars and writers, in the county, who have a larger or more choice library of \'.»rk- shire literature than can be found in the Doctor's study in Hroad- way. I'^rom these volumes he, no doubt, gathers much that gives an Old World flavour and piquancy to his sermons and writings. The story of Dr. Collyer's life, though so often told, is still worth the repeating, as being both instructive and romantic, showing how the factory boy and blacksmith's apprentice has, by dint of "clear grit," come to take one of the foremost positions among American divines, and to rank high among the literary and intellectual men of the New World. Robert Collyer was horn at Keighley in 1824, but he was only nine days old when his parents went to reside at Blubberhouses. At four years old he was sent to school to Few-ston, two miles away. The schoolmaster was a cripple, for, in those days, all cripples were iiddlers or teachers, and Willie Hardy was one of those pedagogues who, using the rod and thelesson book inaboutequal proportions, instilled intotheminds of his pupils some slight knowledge of the merest rudiments of learning, and these lessons he emnhasized by a liberal application of the hazel rod, which was ever ready to his hand. It is said that Hardy was a great marksman with the "corrective," and with him there was no use of dodging, for, if you did, the rod would find you 42 A TRIP TO AMERICA. out, and punish you all the more. Collyer cind his young" com- panions swore solemnly to thrash him when the}- grew to be men. Twenty years ago, the old scholar, with a friend, went to Fewston, and they found the old schoolmaster, thrashing his pupils, just as they had left him. Crossing the worn threshold of the ancient schoolhouse, they very sternly enquired, " Is this Willie Hardy?" "And if it is," said the old man. " How are you g'etting along, sir? " said the strang^ers. '• I'se weel enuf, but I doant knaw ye." "We used to be your scholars, sir, and we've come to give you back your thrashing's." " Noa, noa — and ye weant," shouted old Willie at the intruders, his hand instinctively grasping- the hazel rod. Then they made a rush at him, tellings him who they were, g-iving^ him a great hustling, until he purchased freedom by a pro- mise to play for them a tune on the old fiddle then and there ; and he gave them '• Home, sweet home," until there was not a dry eye in the little, low school-house. When Collyer was eight years old he was sent to the factory, where he had to work from six in the morning to eight at night. At this drudgery he remained for six years, and at fourteen he was apprenticed to " owd Jackie Birch," the village blacksmith, at Ilkley. At this time he formed acquaintanceships which had much to do with shaping his future. John Dobson, Tom Smith, Johii Hobson, and the " 'prentice lad," Collyer, became friends, and formed resolutions about books, reading, and study. Every spare hour they could command found them reading aloud, exchanging ideas and aspirations, and all of them grew into the possession oi noble, self-reliant manhood. Hefore his apprenticeship came to an end Collyer had joined the Methodists, being led to C^o this by a sermon froni a local preacher named Bland, now in Quebec. He soon became class-leader, and in a little time they made him a "local preacher." His first sermon was a great event in the ilistrict. It was preached at Addingham, a little hamlet three miles up the Wharfe from Ilkley. "Oh, I thought I had a capital sermon, though ! " Mr. Collyer once said to a friend. " It was in three parts, each of course, essential to the others. They didn't allow a fellow paper in those days, cither. Their curious eyes were all wide open ; and I thought I had done splendidly. But half way back to Ilkley I suddenly remembered I had left the ' secondly' out entirel}-. I was quite overwhelmed about it. But the joke of it all was that I iiad bodily stolen my * secondly ' from a fine sermon preached by a good Presbyterian brother. I felt the weight of that judgment on me so heavily that I have never stolen a sermon since ! " Then they nuist hear him at Ilkley. All the boys and girls were there ; and the young blacksmith thought he had made a great impression. While this was glowing in his mind on his way to the forge the next morning, the old village cobbler called out to him from where he was hammering away underneath 1 spare si on of mo to is by a :. He him a in the three apital was in didn't were t half ondly ' oke of . line t the stolen Ml the ht he mind )bbler neath NEW VORK AND BROOKLYN. 43 t his porch : "I say, lad, come here, I ha' summat to say to ye. I heard thaa preach last nii^ht." There was a broad g'rin on his face. " Did ye, thouj^h ? "' returned the blacksmith, proudly. *' I did, and I think thou'lt ne'er mak a preacher as loni;^ as thaa lives, Bob." He was stunned by this, for the cobbler was the vilhii^e oracle. The latter saw how sorely he had hurt him, and kind- I "!artedly added : " Now, doant mistake me, Bob. Thou wants to reason too much. Thaa may'st lecture ; but thaa can never be a preacher ! " This prediction has completely failed, for " the personality above all others, that links the American heart of to-day to old ^'ork:jhire, is one that America has held in knin^ refjard these forty years, the j^reai-hearted man who, at Philadelphia, Chicag^o, and New York, has made other men, Romanist or Protestant, ortho- dox or heterodox, better and happier for his ministry amon^ them ; i^rand, i^ray Robert Collyer, who, when he passed from the iron to the spiritual anvil, knew no change in the real man, which made a great preacher and teacher out of the * Yorkshire Blacksmith.' " From his home among the picturesque scenery of Wharfedalc, Robert Collyer emigrated to America, and became a worker in a hammer factory near Philadelphia. In 1859, Chicago needed a preacher to help on her growth in greatness, and, when she realised this need, lost no time in discovering the man. "She hunted up an obscure blacksmith down in Pennsyh ania, who was working for six shillings a day, six days in the week, and preaching for nothing on the seventli. It didn't matter to the seekers that this begrimed, hard fisted Yorkshireman was not college bred ; nor did they mind that he thought himself a Methodist. They knew genuine metal when they saw it ; they knew this man and his religion better than did the man himself. Thus it was that Robert Collyer went to Chicago. There it was that he grew into the full flower and fruitage of his power, until the whole civilized world came to know and love the man and admire his work." During his residence in the cit\-, he was chosen by an unani- mous vote, at a public meeting of his fellow-citizens, to go to the scene of the terrible Iowa tornado, and distribute their benefactions there. He afterwards held a commission, together with Mr. Moody, of Revivalist fame, Irom the city of Chicago, to carry relief to those wounded at the battle of I'ort Donaldson. In 1S71, Unity Church, the centre of his ministerial labours, was entirely destroyed in the great fire. The church had only been in existence two years, had cost ^'42,000, and when it was opened in June, 1869, the ofVerlory amounted to ;^i 1,500, probably the largest ever made in any church in the wi>rld. A new church was built, larger but not so costly, and in this he ministered until nSjt), when he accepted the pastorate of the Church of tlie Messiah, New York. 44 A TRIP TO AMERICA. April Seventeenth.— Spent this day in company with the Doctor, visiting' some of the sights of the city, first calling at his study, in a large building in Broadway, occupied by artists, and gentlemen engaged in various other professions. The r- om occupied by the preacher is located away from the noise and turmoil of the street, and here, safe from the intrusion of callers and domestic worries, he prepares his sermons and attends to his correspondence. On the walls are shelves from floor to ceiling, filled with books, and unlike the libraries of some literary men, there is no litter of papers and disorder of books. Taking a street car, we alighted near the Metropolitan Museum of Art, situated in the Central Park, but were disappointed to iind the Museum was closed for cleaning. I had an opportunity, subse- c|uently, of going over the different departments, and was much A Melropoliian Museum of Art. pleased with all that I saw. This is at present the most important institution of the kind in the States, though in wealth and variety of collections it cannot compare with our British Museum. \'et, considering its recent formation, its growth up to the present time is most remarkable. The collections comprise l^Liyptian Antiquities, Cireek Vases, the famous Cesnola Antiquities, Statuary, Inscriptions and Bronzes, Terra Cottas, Sculptures, Pottery, Glass, Paintings, Drawings and Etchings, I'jigraved Gems, and American Antiqui- ties. The object of the promoters oi' this museum is to make the collections they possess complete of their kind, and it is said that, in some details, it surpasses all other similar institutions. I have not the space to tell of the beauties of these varied and extensive collections, and can only add that the European visitor, when in New \'ork, should not fail to make an examination of the treasures here deposited. From Central Park we took car to Lenox Library, which occupies a commanding' site on Fifth Avenue. As will be seen i I \ f ! 4 fe NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 45 from the engraving', the building is grand in mass, though simple in construction, and admirably proportioned in the relation of parts to the whole. It has a centre with two wings ; the object being to leave as much light as possible for the library room and galleries, an arrangement which is entirely successful. The librar}- was built at a cost of ;£^20o,ooo, and afterwards liberally endowed by the late James Lenox, a bibliophilist of fine taste. The collection of rare books is the finest in the country, and is especially note- worthy in Bibles. I was much interested in the Burns MSS., being the largest collection to be found in any lib'^ary either in the Old World or the Xew. This remarkable series of letters and MS. poems of the Scottish bard was purchased in Scotland last winter and presented by the owner to the Library. l.enox I.ihr.iry. More interesting even than the Lenox Librarv was our inspection of ihe treasures to be found in the rooms of- the Xew York Historical Society. It is to be regretted that this magnificent collection oi' pictures, statuary, and curiosities, the finest in America, shouLl not be accessible to the public, except on introduction bv a member. This society was founded in \Ho.\, ;ind has now upwards oi' 1,000 pictures, 'j^^o.'^o volumes oi books, and 3,000 bound volumes of newspapois issued in .America from 170}^ to 1S50. . 46 A TRIP TO AMERICA It was now time for lunch, and my companion suggested that we should adjourn for that object to the fine rooms of the " Century Association." This club is composed chiefly ol Uttcrateiirs, artists, and connoisseurs of literature and art. After lunch I parted with my friend, and made my way to Franklin Street, to see "The Tombs," the most famous of New York prisons. The building" is a fine example of Egyptian archi- tecture, and is fittingly dark, gloomy, and repulsive looking. I was just in time to sec the departure of the friends and relatives of the prisoners, and the sight was most sad and depressing, many of the women being in tears and deep trouble. " The Tombs " has been an abode of misery for half a century. K it not only a gaol, The Tombs. but in its various departments exhibits the mrchincry of the criminal law m full operation. I was too late to gain admission to the cells and workshops, but I saw into Mie Courts where prisoners are tried. It was now time for me to cross over to Brooklyn, where I purposed staying for a few days, and in order to see the Brooklyn or East River Bridge to advantage, I decided to cross by the Fulton fcrr}-, and in doing so had a good view of this marvel of engineering. I have seen many famous bridges in my time, but not one that can compare with this, the most imposing public work in the States. It is the largest suspension bridge in the world ; so graiul and yet so graceful that it is impossible to convey a sense of its beauty in words. The length of the bridi.;e is 5,989 feet, the -1 TT the here ;rc I :lyn the ir\ol nit \ork so se of the •a ^v A TRIP TO AMERICA width is 85 feet ; the span from pier to pier is 1,595 f noble panoramic \iew of the great city before us, a plain oi' rcc" tops, pierced by innumerable towers, spires, and chimneys. We entered Central Park, the pride of New York, from the Fifth Avenue, and drove past pretty lakes and lovely greenery to where the Mall or promenade is reached. The park is essentially a democratic place, and the people take full advantage of the opportunities for recreation which it affords. It is a pleasure ground upon which has been lavished all that art and s own verse. to the re may human faults ircum- 5 those id, the s, the orld." turer, a too ionist they inter- 1 has rs, in eality ; and pular the n of |T1 »pend )uld farks, bight also fine i1* The Mall, Central Park. expense can accomplish. It is in the form of a parallelogram, two and one-half miles long, and a half mile wide, and covers 840 acres, of which 43 acres are water, divided into six charming lakes and ponds. There are thirty buildings of all kinds in the park, and seats to accommodate ten thousand persons, a large number of these being under shady trees. There are numerous statues and busts in the grounds, which give an air of dignity and public interest to the park. Amongst others I noticed figures of Burns, Scott, Shakespeare, and Tom Moore, and a fine statue in memory of the Seventh Regiment men who died in the Civil War. We saw the T^splanade, in which stands the famous Bethesda Fountain, made at Munich, and representing a .1^1 A^l 5« A TRtP TO AMERICA. lily-bearing atig'el, descending-, and blessinj^ the outflowing v.aters ; the reservoirs of Croton water, vast g-ranite walled structures, containing 1,200,000 gallons of water; the Menagerie in the old Arsenal, a castellated brick building, and the obelisk, presented to the city of New York by the late Khedive of Egypt. I was delighted with the many charms of this great pleasure ground, which unitingf art with nature, its Italian terrace, placid waters, rustic bridges, towers, statues, and trees, give it a front place in the parks of the world. From the Central Park, we drove a distance of two miles along a broad avenue, laid out whh a road, side- walk, and bridle path, to River- side Park, strik- ing features of which are the beautiful views of the Hudson river which it affords. At the upper part of this park we saw the tomb of General Grant, a small round- topped m a u s o 1 e u m , standing- some- what solitary among the trees. The present structure is to be replaced by an imposing archi- tectural memo- rial, the foundation stone of which was laid in June last, and the cost is to be ;^ioo,ooo. We now returned into Fifth Avenue, calling- at Dr. John Hall's church, one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in the city. It is said to have cost ;^200,ooo, and that men representing four hundred millions ste»'''ng- attend it. We next saw the Vanderbilt mansions, two elaborate brown stone dwellings, with fine ornamental fronts ; the two houses being connected by a covered passage. These are the homes of Mr. W. H. Vanderbilt's daughters, but these palaces are exceeded in magnifi- cence by the one occupied by W. K. Vanderbilt. Another Dr. John Hall. NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 53 John city, [nting' the lected H. fnifi- )ther ma£:fnificent structure is owned and occupied by Cornelius \'anderbilt. These four erections cost three niilHons sterlinj;-, and were built, decorated, and furnished to outshine any other houses in the city. We next passed in succession, the mansion in which li.es Jay Gould, the Napoleon of fuiance ; the residence of Chauncey M. Depew, president of the Xew York Central Railway ; tl.e temple l^manu-I'^, the t;-reat Hebrew Synas^oij^ue, a splendid sp>}cimen of Saracenic architecture, havini;- minaret-like towers and delicate carvini^s ; the lofty and quaint Union Leaijue Club house ; the fashionable Christ Church, famous, and justly so, for its beaui'ful frescoes, and then we came upon a little surprise, in the picturesque church of the Transfitjuration, Jif^'^ri", ' B-^-:.',-h^J Residence of Cornelius Vanderljilt. generally spoken of as "The Little Church round the Corner," where many actors are buried. There is a charming l^it of green lawn, over arching trees, and a mantling of ivy. presenting a bright and cheerful contrast to the surrounding mass of stone and brick. This church received its name from the circumstance that a lordly prelate when asked to say the last prayers over the dead body of an actor, sent his sorrowing friends away, saying he would not thus pray for the ungodly, but that they might be willing to do it at the little chuich round the corner. The minister of the Episcopal Church performed the last sad rites in the presence of an overflowing congregation, and ever since I'l 54 A TRIP TO AMERICA. the building has been popularly known as ** The Little Church round the Corner." During' our ride along the avenue, it was full of life and ani- mation, and nowhere else in my journey inj^s did I meet with such beauty and jjcaiety as could be seen in the perfect costumes of the promenaders, the dij^nity of the equipajj^cs and their fair occu- pants, the variety of taste displayed in the domestic and ecclesias- tical architecture, the brown-stone and marble palace-houses of incalculable wealth and splendour, and the handsome shops, art galleries, and decorative establishments. This evening we attended a "Musical Evening" in the First Baptist Church, Brooklyn, a fine and commodious building. The concert was a great success, and at its close I had an introduction W. K. Vjnderbilt's Residence. to Mrs. and Miss Talmage, who gave me a cordial invitation to call upon the Doctor, and also to attend the inauguration services in connection with his new Tabcnuicli\ which were to be held the following Sunday week. I was sorry, on account of having to leave the city, to be compelled to decline both the invitations. April Nineteenth. — My first Sunday in America was a most enjoyable one. In the forenoon I went with Mr. Carleton to the Second Unitarian Church, Brooklyn, pastor, Dr. Chadwick, but the pulpit on this occasion was occupied by my friend. Dr. Collyer, who preached a sermon of elaborate beauty, to a large con- gregation. The service opened with the hymn " O, worship the King," and the preacher asked the people to " all sing together, go on and sing well." The first lesson was from Job, chap. 33, and reading the passage " I will teach thee wisdom," the preacher NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 55 Ml to aces the to lost the but fyer, :on- the [her, 33. :her remarked that, ** he might more fitly have said, I will try, as it was no easy matter teachinf^ wisdom in Job's circumstances." The second lesson was " The sermon on the mount." The Doctor took as his text the second verse of Psalm 131 : *' Surely I have behaved and quieted myself, as a child that is weaned of his mother ; my soul is even as a weaned child." "David," said the preacher, "was far on in life, when he touched this tender strain. It was no mere play of poetic fancy, but a cry out of his own life. When I read what is written, I see an old man sitting in the sunshine with that sweet content he had attained, counting the loss and the gain. It was his own human experience, not a dream, born of a genius which has never had to fight his way. Our life is not woven of imagination and fancy. The poet here sings to us of what he saw on the heights of genius on which he sits. Old memories are stirred up as he sits musing on the things hidden in the psalm. " He had his reasons for such a confession ot his acceptance of the designs that an almighty Providence had seen fit to make on his behalf. Me was weaned from the memories of a once regretted past ; from the recollection, perhaps, of his love for Jonathan, whose soul had been knit to his in the bonds of an indissoluble friendship. When the Prince fell on the field of battle, David in his grief, cursed the place of his death. From this sorrow God had drawn him away. " Then came the sad experience of his unhappy marriage with Michal, Saul's daughter. After her death, he saw wherein he had misjudged her, and he mourned bitterly when the fires of death had burned up the dry stubble of her life and left only the fine wheat of her devotion and self-sacrifice. *' There might have followed, too, his grief for the loss of his little child that passed away just as it was beginning to know him, or his deep sorrow at the fate of his handsome boy, the wayward Absalom, who fell with the sin of his rebellion fresh upon him. " It is a hard strife in this life to master such troubles and to rise again, renewed and hopeful, from the rocks of dead griefs." Such is an ii.iperfcct outline of a sermon, full of poetic fancy and practical common sense, and in which were v""mbodied many charming reminiscences of his home in the old country, and his own experiopces in the valley of the Wharfe. April Twentieth. — Went with my friend into New Vck, to visit Harper's printing establishment. We took the '* L " road to Brooklyn Bridge, which we crossed on foot, and from our elev ed position on this mighty structure we had a splendid view, uf .id down the river. The river streets of both cities were lined \vilh shipping of all kinds, and the river itself was alive with every variety of craft. We alighted in the City Park, in immediate proximity to Printing House Square, not like its namesake in 56 A TRIP TO AMERICA. m London, confined to one journal, but occupied by the offices of several newspapers of world-wide celebrity. There is the lart^e and fine building- of the IVorM, with its gilded dome ; the Tribuuc oHRce. conspicuous by reason of its tall tower, with the statue of Greeley in front of the building ; adjoining- the Tribune is the Sun office, and at a short distance is the handsome Romanesque structure of the Tini.'s, an architectural effort of great merit. The Harper's printing- works in Franklin Square is an immense establishment, and in it the manifold operations of making a book are all carried on so near to each other that in a very short time one may there gain a tolerable idea of the whole, although a person of a mechanic d turn may profitably spend hours in studying the working o' the complicated machines by which no small part or the labour is performed. ^^•^J^j Hrooklyn Bridge. From 1825 to 1869 the firm consisted of four brothers : James Harper, born in 1795 ; John, born in 1797 ; Joseph Wesley, com- monly called Wesley, born in 1801 ; and l-'letcher, born in 1806. James died March i7lh, 1869, from injuries received by being thrown from his carriage ; Wesley died February 14111, 1870 ; John, April 22nd, 1875 ; and Fletcher, May 29th, 1877. The firm now consists iif sons of the original members. The establishnient occupies a plot of ground extending fnini Pearl to Clifi' Street, with a front o'i about 120 feet on each, and a depth oi 170 from street to street, comprising an area o^ ten city lots, or about half an acre. There are two buildings, one fronting upon each street, with an o|-)en courtyaid l>elween thern. it was determined that the entire structure should be lire-proof, strong, well lighted and ventilated, and handsome. It is believed that no Ifices of e large Tribuuc tatue of the Sun incsque t. nmense a book imc one ;rson of inir" the part o[ '•-- James , coni- iSo6. being I S70 ; le linn t-> irom and a en city onting It was trong, hat \\K> NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 57 'i Structure in the country, erected before or since, more fully meets all these conditions. The Franklin Square building is used mainly for olTices and warerooms. It consists of fiye stories aboye the leyel of the street. The front, which is wholly of iron, has 21 ornamental columns to each story. The side and rear walls are of brick or stone. To gain a firm foundation for a structure so massiye, and to be so heayily loaded, it was necessary to excayate to a depth of nearly 30 feet. This space is utilized by throwing it into two sub- terranean stories, the lower one forming a series of yaults with massiye walls and arches, used chielly to store the numerous and costly electrotype plates. The leyel of ClifT Street is considerably lower than that of Pearl Street. The Cliff Street building, used principally as the manufactory, is of brick, six stories aboye ground, with a base- ment story. To obyiate the monotony of such an extent of Hat wall and uniform windows, there are pilasters of the entire height; the upper windows are arched, and there is a heayy cornice. We first yisited the "composing room," where the operation of " setting up the type " is carried on, atid here I obseryed that many females were employed as compositors, l-'rom this room we yisited the other departments, in the following order, yiz., electro- typing, printing, drying and pressing, folding, stitching and binding. We then saw the rooms of the artists and engrayers, and the yarious methods by which illustrations are produced, such as litb.ography, copper, steel and wood engraying, and process work. The productions of this well-known lirm, notabl}-, Harper's ]\Iagazi)H\ Baoaar, Wcckly\ and Young Pcop/c, are circulated by hundreds ot thousands yearly, and the firm ha\e also an extensiye publishing connection amongst authors of eminence. In the afternoon vva droye to Greenwood Cemetery, and obtaining the seryices of a guide, we spent seyeral hours in examining the monuments and grounds. The entrance is by an elaborate brown-stone edifice, highly ornamented, and the grounds spread out in baauty before us, as soon as the gateway was passed. The cemetery is an alternation o'i hills and dales ; the hill sides are used for yaults, and splendid monuments crown the hill tops. Some of the mausoleums are constructed upon a scale o\' magnili- cence unec[ualled elsewhere. One o\' tliese is a large marble church that would holdanumerous congregation. I-lquallx' interesting as the ten thousand sepulchres, are their surroundings, for the lakes, yallexs, delicious fitliage and flowers, Jiud the delighti'ul sccner\-on e\ery hand, make (ireenwood as much a park as a cemeler\-. It contains 413 acres, trayersed by 24 miles of winding paths and carriage tlrives. The guide pointed mit the graves o{ liarne\' Williams, the Irish comedian, Hurnhain, a button maker o^ Xew 'iork. whose monununt cost ^10 000 ; lioraci' Cireele;., the for.nder 5« A TRIP TO AMERICA. ¥\ i I 11: It' ill of the Tribune newspaper ; the jjrcat De Witt Clinton ; the erratic Lola Montez ; Henry Ward Beecher, the greatest preacher of his time ; and the memorials to the Bennetts, the Steinways, the Scribners, and the Harpers. I might particularise indefinitely, but I leave the "God's Acre" with the intimation that days might be spent in tiie examination of its charming walks and suggestive memorials. Being much interested in the work of fire brigades, I went this evening to the principal Brooklyn Fire Engine Station, and met with a most courteous officer, who explained to me the various operations in case of an alarm of fire. In the centre of the ground floor of the station stands a powerful steam fire engine, behind which are four horses, heads outwards, loose in their boxes. Eleven men are in their beds in the room overhead, and one is below on the watch. Two round holes are cut in the bedroom floor, and brass poles \^o from the ceiling to the floor beneath. These are for the men to slide down into their places on the engine. The instant that the electric bell sounds, giving the alarm, all the gas is turned on, the big doors fly open, the horses (trained to the sound) rush to their places in front of the engine, the harness is dropped down and is instantly fastened. The firemen in the room above, who sleep in their underclothing, with their boots and trousers attached together close at hand, hearing the bell, jump into their garments, slide down the poles, finding their coats and hats on the engine ; fastening their outer clothing as they ^o, and in twenty to thirty seconds the engine is thundering away to the scene of the fire. The shortness of the time occupied seems almost incredible, but I was assured that from twenty to thirty seconds is amply sufticient. To save time every American town is divided into fire districts. Each district has its fire brigade ready to turn out to a fire within its own limits. The other brigades turn out also, but will only ^o as far as their own boundary lines. There they will wait to see whether any help is needed from them, and as soon as they find that the fire is likely to be a small one, back they go to their own head-quarters. When, however, a general tire alarm is struck they all make for the spot where the danger is, each brigade or company obeying the order of its captain, and each captain in turn following the instructions o{ the oflicer in full charge, who is known usually as the Chief Engineer. Where the towns are large and prosperous the firemen are paid, and are continually on duty. In smaller places the brigades are made up of volunteers, who meet for drill at stated inter\als, and who sometimes turn out on parade in gay uniform, with their iMigines beautifully polished and decorated with flowers, but ready for action. In addition to the alarms senl in to the fire- stations, the alarm will often be sounded o\\ a great bell from a central towei. This is for the information of the public. l>y list- ening to the number ol" laps on the bell, and the time taken between 11 NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 59 \n stricts. within ly ^o o see find own k lliey npany win<^ iially lerous ■•laces stated form, wers, J iire- oni a V- list- iwcen I each, it is easy to tell the neighbourhood in which the fire has broken out, and whether it is in t'.^e centre of valuable property or not. iVpRiL TwENTV-FiRST. — This morninij;' paid a visit to the new Tabernacle which has been built for Dr. Talmaire. It is an immense structure, will seat several thousand persons, and the orj^^an which was being erected is to be the largest in the country. The Plymouth Church, which we next visited, is a plain brick erection, without ornament of any kind, and yet a few years ago it was the most famous church in Brooklyn, its pulpit being filled by that prince of preachers, Henry Ward Beecher. I stood upon the plat- form from which the great Puritan divine was wont to deliver those wonderful expositions of Christian truth, and severe denunciations of all hypocrisy, time serving, and oppressions of every kind. We went along Fulton Street, five miles in length, full oi' attractive shops, passing the City Hall, County Court Houses, the statue of Beecher, still un\-eiled, and many (\no public buildinj^s. W^e also saw the famous building know as "The Church of the Pilgrims." Tiiis edifice has a massive tower and spire, and let into the lower part of the tower is a small rough-hewn piece of the " Plvmouth Rock," brought here from the original rock where the Pilgrims landed. This relic is held in as great reverence as the "Coronation Stone" in Westminster Abbey. Dr. Storrs, the minister of this church, is well known on both sides of the water as an author, lecturer, and preacher of great power and originalit\-. Before lunch we went to Prospect Park, in driving through which we spent a delightful hour. My friend, a true Brooklynite, was justly proud of this " breathing space," and claimed fi>r it an equality at least with its neighbour, the Central Parkin New York. The park covers nearly a square mile, and if art as yet has not done much to beautify it, it has the perfection of Nature, in forest and plain, hill and dale, fine old trees, winding roads, woods and meadows, everything, in fact, which can be found in the charms of a perfectly natural landscape. We left this attractive spot b\- the main entrance called the Plaza, a large oval enclosure with a magnificent fountain in the centre, and shortly afterwards entered the "Coney Island Boule\ard," a splendid road 200 feet wide, planted with six rows of trees. This road is laid out in a straight line trom the park to Coney Island, three miles away. It is the " Rotten Row " of Brooklyn, and here may be seen all the handsome equipages and plainer " lurn-outs " of the Brooklyn citizen;- and as we returned to the city we saw some of the fast paces o^ the trotting fraternity ; double- horse con\eyance.'-' of the neatest juid lightest construction ; buggy, sulky, and saddle, all tra\el!ing along by trotters or pacers at a tremendous speed. On another occasion when we were whirling along this gund thoroughfare at the heels oi' ni)' frientl's high stepper, amidst clouds of dust, wc were many times startled iil 6o A TRIP TO AMERICA. h\ ihc confusion caused by the numerous riders and dri> ;i'S V, •h( ■ d were anxious to lead the procession of health and pleasure seekers. We found Coney Island a comparatively deserted place, thoug^h when the season is in full swinof it is full of life anc mmiation. Preparations were i^'oini^ on for the advent of the summer ]-)leasure seekers, for it is the favourite seaside reso.t of the millions who populate the metropolis and its environs. A few facts rej^ardiiii;' this place may s^ive some idea of its popularity. " It^ stands pre- eminent as the i^'reatest waterinj4--place in the world, for there are often poured into it half a million people in a few' hours. The j^reat Coney Island ai^'y^'res^ation of wooden structures, some of niaii;"nificent proportions and decorations, represents, with the means of usand waiters are employed in the hotels and restaurants. " Our visit was made too earl)' in the season to enable us to mix in the dissii) liion of this Brighton, Scarbro', and Blackpool combined, watering-place. In the afternoon, went with my riend, Mr. Carleton, to inspect the Methodist I-lpiscopal Hosp'.l.d in Brookl\n. W'e were kindly received and shown over the premise-, by the Superintendent, Rev. J. S. Breckenridge. Although under the superintendence of the church whose name it bears, it has been erected and equipped for the purpose of providing atten- dance and care for the sick, without reference to religious belief or race. From the annexed \ iew of the buildings, it will be seen that they are of considerable extent, though, to finish the hospital according to :h( origin.al plan, there are six smaller edifices yet to be reared, when the Institution will then be able to accommodate three hundred beds, and be able to care for from three to four thousand sufferers annuall}'. A course of systematic training in nursing is carried on in the hospital, the course for which extends over two years, and includes the outlines of Anatomy and Physiology, Hygiene, General and Special Medical Nursing. After inspecting the various rooms, and watching a delicate operation by two of the surgeons in the operating room, while the patient, a child of nine years, was vmder the infiuence of ether, we visited the women's w.u-d, and my companion, to the great delight i-)l'the patients, recited in his inimitable manner two of his own poems, " Out of the old house, Xancy," and " I'-armer Stebbins at Ocean drove." The enthusiasm was great, and a strong desire was exprev.-ed that die experiment might be repeated as e:ii'h as possiole. A similar \isit was made to the men's ward, and the poems recited were " ! low we kept the Day " and " Farmer Stci bir' at tlv' Skating Rir.k." I wa^^ pleased to learn that when 1 1 ii i ! fs who leckers. thoug^h mation. ileasuro lis who l^ardiiis;' ds pre- ore are i. The ome of :} means iturc of lavo ten the sea- ? hotels lousand isit was si pal ion yf-place. !ton, to 1. We by the der the I ii; has at ten - lii^'ious ;S, it ui;"h, to re are on will able to course tal, the lines of Uedical hmi^ a room, once o( , to the er two armor id ai Mva a tod •Aarcl, armor It when ii 1 T,V -f S^St^BlWERSiiftTIBH SBBBuI ^^^IM- 62 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I ii opportunity offers the poet visits this and simil.ir institutions in lirooklyn, that he may help to h\o frantic passenger, first seeing tliat his luggage was hibellet', lUen seeing it put into the van, watching its career at the various jinictions, and finally, at the termination of his journcv, being hustled about in his endeavours to pick out his goods from among the belongings of other travellers. I had no such experience as >his in niy six thousand miles of ti vel in the States. On taking my portmanteau to the baggage office, I received a small metal check, numbered, its counterpart being affixed to iny luggage, imd for this there was no charge, and I had no further troi'ble till I arri\ed at the end of my journey, when I found my portmanteau quite safe ; unless I wished it to be delivered ar the fou in I . .H. SEW YORK AND BROOKLYN. 63 tutions ss and .it from ) New ;il pas- River cccivcd officers offices railway tion is ousand ure. I several 3y each rythinj^ station shriek tic and heavily dini:;' of anxiety ifety of iccne of lated mon to Ihere, it walls : the jiu'ures, mail ation. Ihere in lovance th, is Wl It h ling" its Ition of it his had no lin the lice, I beini^;' and 1 when iverct at some hotel or house in the city, when I had merely to hand my check to an official of the Company, wlio, walk n;-' fbrous^h the cars before we arrive at our destination, asks ea:n passeng-er in turn whether he has any lugg-age he wants delivered. If he has. the official takes his name and address, and the lug'g'ag'e will be found at its destination when the traveller arrives. A good story is told of the American Exhibition Commissioners, in connection with their visit to England in July of the present I ',\ m 64 A TRIP TO AMERICA. vuar. The Commissioners li;id ;uii\ cd at one of the ^Teat London termini, and were eni^aj^^ed, with the assistance of SirTrueman Wood, who had been deputed to meet them, in sorting- their luggag-e from the pile upon the phitform. The task was not an easv one, and the Commissioners waxed impatient under the infliction. At length one o[' them, turning to Sir Trueman Wood, said, " Sir, in my country you can travel 4,000 miles and never be a "5 O troubled about your baggage from beginning to end of the journey. How is it you can't do it here ? " " Because we haven't got 4,000 miles to travel," replied Sir Trueman promptly, to the amusement c-f the bvstanders and the e\ident discomfiture of the questioner. The entire range of otlices in the two stories of the Grand Central Station above the waiting-rooms and baggage rooms of the 1 QBBB I I s S 3 n ufncy. 4,000 lement ner. Grand ■ of the o o I 66 A TRIP TO AMERICA. ■; New Yovk CoiUral and Hudson Ri\er, and the Xew \ov\<. and Harlem railways, is devoted to the use of the ofTicers and clerks of these two Corporations. The main entrance to the ollices is by a large door on Vanderbilt Avenue. A flig-ht of broad, steep stairs leads to a corridor of apparently interminable leiii^th, haxinjj;' on its left, doors fitted with larg^o gfround-g'lass panes, on which I read the designations of the officers occupying the rooms. In room H. Wjtlter V/ebb, third Vice-President, giving orders. No. I, is the president's office, guarded by a porter, to save Mr. Depew from the incursions of " inventors, subscription agents, cranks of all kinds and types, and thousands of honest-meaning people who think that the business they have in hand can only be transacted by the president." A door leading from the president's room communicates with Cornelius X'underbilt's room, where all the meetings of the board of directors are held. This room is i'^ u a A IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) {./ k ^^% fe ^^^ ^^^ ^ 1.0 1.1 iiUl 125 £ Itt 12.0 11:25 HI 1.4 ■ i 1.6 % -> -^/i // o / /A Photographic Sciences Corporation m \ «- <^ ^\ '^\ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WItSTBR.N.Y. UStO (716)I73-4S03 68 A TRIP TO AMERUA. ^4,40,0,000, and lias increased to ;^7, 400,000 in i(ia/f/i'. Twain is lifty-live years of age, of medium stature, and having a face and head, which once seen can never be forgotten. lul the iditing desks, e two ;ind of ud, are lent in 2s, and i book- i every editors mediate >merica, ins, the -akes o( Hir lines r trains, kVomen's I the hall IS to be \vs in the Is, and it ice with lourists ; nd other son, and t him at u'itation, irojected nt to me. npathetic presided. hap. Hell in a amusing' t at the lis poem ided, and stenintj " story to o^ramme hich >n," w it lire, and forgotten. Mark i'wain (S. L. Clemens). ^o A TRIP to AMEKKA. fi The features are well defined, yel have in them no signs of gentleness or humour, on the contrary it is a somewhat repellent face, grave and severe, and certainly not so attractive as to win the confidence of a stranger at a first glance. The profile is neither American nor English, lacking the lankness of the former, and the rounded fullness of the latter, and perhaps it may best be classed as Jewish. What his eyes are like I failed to discover, as he kept them closed during most of the time he was speaking, or they were hid under the heavy, bushy eyebrows. A thick head of hair, which has been described as looking, at a short distance, like a crow's nest, covers a well shaped head. When speaking, there is not much charm in the tones of his voice, but when he has fairly warmed to his subject he is fluent, with the most eccentric movements of head and hands, and in spite of yourself he convulses you with laughter. It was a genuine treat to spend even this brief period of time in the company and under the spell of an author whose writings " Puritan" Steamer. have earned for him a world-wide reputation, and the honour of being designated "the first humourist of the age." On leaving the hall, I went by the *' L " road to the station of the Fall River line of steamboats, in order to travel by the night boat to Fall River, cfi route for Boston. The vessel by which I travelled was the Puritan an example of marine architecture and contrivance which I have never seen surpassed. After in- specting it thoroughly, I could well understand that it had been described as ** a marvel of marine construction and capacity, a wonder of the world as an agency in passenger transportation, and the delight of countless thousands of local and cosmopolitan travellers who have found in her services the perfect realisation of comfort, convenience, and pleasure in traversing a great highway \ NEW YORK ANO BRCOKLVN. signs ot" repellent IS to win profile is e former, may best discover, sneaking, 'a thick t a short tones of ject he is id hands, ^^hter. It f time in writings le honour le station el by the 1 by which chitecture After in- had been apacity, a portation, mopolitan realisation t highway o\' the cojiUr/. ' Her dimensions arc, length over all, 4J0 feet ; length on the water line, 404 feet ; extreme breadth, 91 feet ; whole depth from base line to top of house over the engine, 70 feet. She is fireproof and unsinkable ; is divided into 59 water tight compartments ; has a compound \ertical beam surface con- densing engine of 7,500 horse power. The high-pressure cylinder is 75 inches in diameter, and 9 feet stroke ol' piston. The low- pressure cylinder is no inches in diameter, and 14 feet stroke of piston. The surface condenser has 15,000 square feet of cooling surface and weighs 53 tons ; of condenser tubes of brass there arc 14^ miles in the Puritmi. Her working beam is the largest ever inade, being 34 feet in length from centre to centre, 17 feet wide and weighing 42 tons. The shafts are 25 inches in diameter, and weigh 40 tons each. The cranks weigh 9 tons each. She has 8 steel boilers, containing 850 square feet of grate surface and 26,000 squi're feet of heating surface The hurricane or extreme upper deck, instead of being shut off from the use of patrons, is open for passengers, and has a pro- menade entirely around its outer edge ; this promenade furnishes a continuous walk of upwards of 600 feet. There are six stairways additional to those found in other steamboats of the line from the main deck to the hurricane deck. On the saloon deck there is a continuous promenade entirely around its area, outside the wheels. The outer promen.Hde space of the hurricane deck is 10 feet wide and 42 feet above the water-line. I-'rom this deck the most mag- dilicent outlooks are afforded upon the rapidly shifting and beauti- ful sc. nes extending for many miles around, while entering or leaving any harbour of the route ; and it will accommodate with perfect ease hundreds of passengers at o\\«. /.-» for pastors many able men, anioiij^ them the Re\. W. II, II. Murray and Dr. David Grej^jjf. I next visited the Public Library, and was shown over the buildinj^ by the courteous and oblij^in^'' librarian. This beneficent institution illustrates in a remarkable manner the public spirit and liberality of the citi/ens o( Hosti>ii. It is open to all, without fee, and if a purchaseable book not in the library is asked for, it is ordered at once. The library now numbers nearly 500,000 volumes and over 200,000 pamphlets. The annual circulation amounts to 1,400,000 separate issues. .Many hand- some bequests have been made to the library, notably the col- lections of books b(!lonj^ing to Theodore Parker, Kd. I^verett, and Ct. Tick- nor, while Mr. Hates, a nat- ive of Boston, who. from a very humble position in life, became the head oi' the Barinyfs' 1 unking house in London, p r e sent e d ^, I 0,000 I'o r the erection of a 11 e w w i n i^; to the library buildinj,'-, and also ^10,000 w o r t li o f books. The grant from the municipa I i- t y a 111 o u n t s to ;,£, 24,000 yearly, and a sum of jC\,^oo is derived annually from endowments. The staff' consists of 200 librarians and assistants. The readiiij^- rooni is open every day in the week, includin*;" Sundays. I was shown over the new building' which is neariny completion, and when finished, and the transference from the present building is eff'ected, t':e Boston Free Library will be the handsomest and noblest Public Library in the world. After lunch, I took the car to the south side of the city, in order to visit one of the admirable school buildintT's for which Boston is celebrated. Nothing pleased me more when travelling in the States and Canada, tlian to see the abundant facilities cvery- Park Sireel L'ongregalional Llitiroli. 7(, A TKII' TO AMliKKA. where pro\itled for the free ;iiul thorough education of all chisses of the people Not only is the education free, but school books and other appliances are supplied «jcratuitously. In addition to the primary schools, there are Hiyfh Schools, equivalent to our Grani- niar Schools, Colleges, and Universities, in almost all cases main- tained by public bene\oience or supported by the State. I had several opportunities of seeing a little of the work done both in the Primary and Hij^h schools, and shall have something to say thereon hereafter. The Latin and High School building I was now visiting is an imposing structure, of brick with sandstone facings, and exterior ornamentation. The school-rooms are forty-eight in number, thirty-six of which occupy the street fronts. There are large library rooms, lecture halls, and assembly halls. In the main vesti- bules are many choice pieces of statuary. The building was dedicated in 1881, and the cost up to that time was ;£^i5o,o^ point of our perambulations. The building- in which the Institute is located is of handsome design externally, and internally is well fitted for the work it aims to accomplish. The office of the society, to the left as we enter, contains many excellent portraits of the officers of the Essex Historical, and Kssex County Natural History Societies, the forerunners of the Institute, and a complete set of the publications of the society. Passing- through an ante- room hung round with old prints and silhouettes, we reach the Historical Museum, containing a very large number of interesting relics ; a larger room beyond is hung with historical portraits by Copley and other eminent artists, and contains a valuable store o( antique furniture, local curiosities, and military costumes. I was much interested in the valuable collection of MSS. whicii are kept in a fireproof room in the rear of the building. Retiu'ning to the Phimmer Hall. Essex Institute. secretary's room, we re enter the hall, and passing up tlie main staircase, which is lined with portraits, we find ourselves in the commodious library and reading rooms, where some thirty thousand volumes are stored, and where all the leading- periodicals of the day are to be found on the tables. 'l"he library contains many literary treasures, the gifts of wealthy citizens of Salem, as for instance, 8,000 volumes of English, Greek, and Latin Classics given by Judge White ; a collection of 300 Bibles, presented by Rev. J. M. Hoppin ; some hundreds of volumes on China, and works on Art, the gift of l'\ J. Hunt, Esq. ; 400 log-books or sea-journals, and the proceedings of 266 societies, scientific, historical, and Iiterar\-, with wl ich the Institute exchanges publications. ROSTON AND SALEM. 8i hich the iternally :e of the portraits Natural complete an ante- each the terestinijf -traits by ; store of i. I was are kept MX to the 'Sir the main I'cs in the thousand |of tlie day }\ literary instance, ij^iven by ev. J. M. |s on Art, J-nals, and ll literary, From the Institute a covered passag^e leads us into Plummer Hall, on the site of Gov. Simon Hradstreet's house, and William H. Frescott's birthplace. The Hall was built in 1857 for the Salem Athenaium (founded in 1810), and contains rich portraits, historical paintinj^s, relics of the Puritan pioneers, autog-raphs and medals, and a noble library and lecture hall. One could only regret that time did not permit of our enjoying to the full so much that deserved our careful attention, for in the pleasant rooms of these two institutions were gathered such an accumulation of antique treasures, that days might have been profitably spent in their inspection. On the walls were counterfeit presentments of men who had made their mark whilst living, including an admirable portrait of Oliver Cromwell, looking as stern and truculent as was ^..,v^-v\V)b^v «:, First I'liritaii Llmicli, Juiein. his wont when matters went awry. The daily home life o{' the great men of the past, whose portraits adorned the walls, was here illustrated by specimens o\' their household furniture ; their pursuits in the house and a -field ; their dress, and their amusements. On leaving Plummer Hall we must needs visit in the grounds belonging thereto, perhaps the most interesting^ building in Salem, namely, the " First Puritan Church," to which reference has been already made. The structure stood on the site of the present First Church edifice. On the erection of the second building in 1670, the original one was given to the town, " to be reserved for the town's use to build a skoole house and a watch-house." In 1760, the old building was disposed of, and was bought by one Thorndyke Proctor, who converted the oldest portion into a tavern. It sub- 82 A TRIP TO AMERICA. sequently fell into decay, and was taken down in 1864. The frame was carefully preserved, and restored to its original mortises and placed within a good external covering. It was then set up in the rear of Plummer Hall, surrounded by well kept grounds, where it remains at the present time, an object of veneration and pious pilgrimages. The interior of the ancient edifice is full of many interesting relics, belonging to the Essex Institute. My attention was called to three ancient desks, which, though having no connection with the church itself, are yet objects of interest to the antiquary and historian. These desks originally belonged to three former prominent citizens of Salem, all eminent men, but of widely different talent and occupation. Mr. Brooks has placed on record the history of these desks and their owners, and I shall reproduce the story for the benefit of my youthful* readers. "These three special relics strongly appeal to the imagina- tion, 'i'he oldest of the three was used for many years by that well-known merchant of the latter part of the last century, who was familiarly spoken of as ' Billy Gray.' ' Billy Gray ' owned at one time sixty sail of square-rigged vessels, and was then supposed to be the largest ship-owner in America. He was born in Lynn in 1750, and at the height of his prosperity must have been one of the wealthiest men in the country. When he left Salem in 1809, he was reputed to be worth at least three millions of dollars, which was a large sum for those days. For political reasons he left Salem and pursued his business in Boston for a number of years, but not with the same success as in Salem. I once heard an anecdote of this princely merchant which w^as characteristic of the man. On one occasion a labouring man in his employ having been censured by Gray for some neglect of duty, was so offended that he took his hat and left, saying in a loud voice, 'Old Billy Gray ! who cares for you? You were only a drummer in the Revolution!' *Yes, yes,' said Mr. Gray, 'I know that! but didn't I drum well?' The old pine desk seems hardly fitting for the use of a great mer- chant, according to the notions of our extravagant times ; but it answered its purpose as well as if it had been mahogany or rose- wood. It was made more than a hundred years ago. '* The second desk is one used by the distinguished Nathaniel Bowditch, who was born in Salem in 1773, and died in Boston in 1838. At the age of ten he was taken from school and placed with a firm of ship chandlers in Salem, and at 21 went to sea, and soon became master and supercargo, and in 1800 issued his Pnictical Navigator, which has always been considered one of the most valuable books on the subject of navigation, superseding the works of Moore, and other English authorities. Upon this little desk, with its lid covered with green baize, he wrote the first entire translation of La P*;xe's celebrated Mccaniquc Celeste. He began his task in the year 1815, and continued it during the rest \:ii his in 2C fh St cei ch in BOSTON AND SALEM. 83 frame 2S and in the here it pious many ;hough ects of ginally minent Brooks nvners, outhful nagina- by that •ho was 1 at one osed to Lynn in le of the 1809, he s, which ft Salem but not cclote of in. On ensured tooi< his 10 cares ♦Yes, XNCll?' iat mer- but it I or rose- lathaniel bslon in :ed with Ind soon **riutical jie most le works |e desk, . yivori/i. and Artliur Pciirhyii Sidiihy : His Lili\ Jl'or/:, nnd Tcacliiti^is. A leading critic says that *' Mrs. Oliver has struck out for herself a line of dislinctixe literar}' work that is one of especial interest both in itself and J datively to the literature of the day." Our party consisted of a score of ladies and gentlemen, in about equal numbers. The con- versation was simply delightful, as nearly all present were good talkers, and had something to say that was worth listening to. During the evening a most instructive paper was read by Mrs. Pinkham, the wife of a Lynn physician, on the " Ober-Ammergau Passion Play." The lady had witnessed the representation of the drama, and her criticisms thereon were of a most interesting character. Our hostess has a well-furnished and cosy home, books having a predominance ; a large circle of friends, to whom, I was told, she is ever ready to show the graces of a generous hospitality, and she proved herself to be a typical converser among many who talked well, her well-stored mind sharing its treasures with all with whom she came in contact. She evidently devotes much of her time to the acquisition of sound and varied knowledge, and, after- ward, has a real pleasure in bestowing it upon others in the form of instructive conversation or in most readable books. On returning from the "social" to my friend's house, I had my attention drawn to the lighting of the streets by electricity. I hOSTON AND SALEM. 95 sides of irst saw ears his : at one ■liquors. ;d build d books, regular irtrait in ia, j^iven painted, adorned was the isinij her London. , struci< he muni- ; States, ociety of ,-, to see or^et the ; of New- Grace A. of J/rs\ J\'/ir/iyn ritic says istinctive tself and Isted of a It he con- ere good nintj^ to. by\Mrs. nmer^au Ion of the estin^ lie, books |m. I was [)spitaHty, lany who li all with Ih of her \\d, after- the form |ie, 1 li;id -icitv. I could not but express my satisfaction at the brilliancy of the li^ht, and its evident superiority to that which is supplied to our towns and villages by the g'as companies of the old world. On asking;- whether the cost was not much hij4"her than by the old system of lij^hting, I was told that this was counterbalanced by the extra protection it afforded to property. From a pamphlet which was given me, being a history of the "Salem Electric Lighting Com- pany," I gathered some information which may be of interest to those authorities who have to do with the lighting of the streets in my own country. In January, 1883, the first negotiations looking to street light- ing were begun, and after some time five city lamps were put in operation, burning six nights in the week to midnight only, the price paid by the city being 2s. 6d. each. The number of street lamps was subsequently increased to twenty-five, for each of which 2s. 5d. was charged. The first incandescent lamps were put up in June, 1885, the " distribution box " system being used. This was superseded by the "direct" incandescent system in 1887, and this method has been in successful use up to the present time. In the future the apparatus used will be the "alternating," by which svstem light can be furnished satisfactorilv at a distance of fi\e miles from the station. In the summer of 1886, the city authori- ties expressed a desire for a general system of street illumination by arc lamps, and in November of that year, a two years' contract was entered upon for one hundred or more lamps, the rate to bo paid to be is. ii^jd. per lamp per night for 100, and is. lo'jd. for all lamps over 100, the lamps to be burned from dusk to daylight. In December, 1888, a three years' contract was made with the city of Salem for one hundred and sixty lamps as the minimum number, at a price of is. lod. each per night. This price is the lowest in the State for all-night lighting by 2,000 c. p. lamps. Professor Farmer, who lived on Pearl Street, Salem, between the years 1850 and 1870, was a great authority upon all electrical matters. As far back as 1859 he illuminated his house by divided electric lights. The first electric light in a dwelling house in the world is said to have been used at No. 11, Pearl Street, Salem, ;i parlour of which was lighted e\ery evening during the month ot July, 1850, by the electric light, and it was subdivided, two lamps being used, either of which could be lighted by turning a little button to the right. The electricit\- was from a gahanic batterv oi' about three dozen six-gallon jars. The cost was about four times that of gas light. Mr. Farmer told my friend Mr. Brooks, in 1855, that if he lived to be 75 years old, it would be possible for him to stiuid in Boston and talk with a man in New Orleans, and each would recognise the other's voice. Salem is also honoured as being the place where the telephone, one of the most wonderful instruments of modern times, was to ha\ e I ■■: i 96 A TRIP TO AMERICA. its first demonstration and trial. Prof. Alexander Graham Bell, whose name has of late years stood so prominently before the public of the civilized world, is certainly entitled to be remembered in time to come by Salem people, who take any interest in their place of residence. Professor Bell's lecture on the telephone, the first on the subject, in that country at least, if not in the world, was delivered before the Essex Institute, Feb. 12th, 1877, before a large and enthusiastic audience in Lyceum Hall. April Twenty-sixth. — In the forenoon attended service at the First North Church, on Essex Street, of which the Rev. E. B. Willson, an able preacher, is the minister. Heard an excellent ser- mon on " Music," which was well supplemented by the choir, an exceptionally able body of musicians. The church has a somewhat heavy appearance, relieved a little by its vine-covered front. It was built in 1836, and the society worshipping here is the successor oi' the congregation that, headed by its pastor, left the church on Sunday afternoon, February 26th, 1775, and hurried to the North Bridge to assist in repelling the inxasion of Salem territory b\- British troops. April Twextv-nintii. — Went into Boston to spend the da}-, and luider the able guidance of Abncr C. Goodell, Esq., of the State House, I saw many interesting places, some of which are not usually accessible. The State House hrst claimed our attention, and my iriend led the way to his editorial rooms, where, with a staff of lemale assistants, he is engaged in the important work of editing the City Records of two centuries ago. These documents are oi' great value, and are being edited, printed, and bound in the most careful and substantial manner. The State House building, situate on the summit of Beacon Hill. is a prominent object in the city. It is surmounted by a noble dome, gilt over its whole surface, remindingoneof the domeof the Invalides in Paris. The view from this elevation is both extensive and pictur- esque, for the entire city can be seen, and the harbour, with its islands, jutting rocks and promontories, and vessels of all kinds and sizes. One could readily believe the statement that the country for fifteen miles around Boston, as a whole, surpasses in the beauty, good taste, and attractiveness of its residences, parks, and gardens, that of any section of equal size in America. We visited the House of Representatives, which was in Session, within the building. The room in which the members meet is light and airy, but in no sense elaborate ; on the contrary, it is a plain and somewhat crowded hall, with a carved cod-fish hanging from the roof, as emblematic of a proliiic source of the wealth of the State. During the time we were listening to the debates, the fol- lowi.ig subjects were under discussion, namely, a Bill raising the compulsory school age to fifteen years ; a Bill to restrict the height of buildings in cities ; and a Bill to establish a commission to pro- m Bell, e public in time jlace of t on the ilivered •ge and rvice at . E. B. lent ser- hoir, an imewhat It was essor of lurch on le North •itory by day. and he State )t usually and my a staff o( f cdilini; s are of he most con Hill. )le dome, nvalides d pictur- with its dl kinds country s in the rks, and [Session, [t is light a nlain Ing from Ih of the the fol- Ising the le height i\ to pro- BOSTON AND SALEM. 97 mote a rapid transit tor the city of Boston and its suburbs. The mode of conducting the debates was not, in my opinion, so orderly as it might have been ; the noise and confusion being such that it was with difficulty we could hear what the speakers were saying. Yet there was an earnestness and determination about them which was highly commendable, and as I looked down upon the scene from my place in the gallery, I formed a very high opinion of the dele- gates, most of whom w^ere men in middle life, bright and intelligent- looking, and also noticeable for their physical appearance, which was suggestive of good health and a sound constitution. State Honss, Boston. We next visited the rooms of the New England Historical Society, which contain a valuable library and a rare collection of antiquities. The rooms are not open to the general public, but are accessible to all students of history, and are in constant use. We spent some time in the Old State House, which has been restored and dedicated as a museum, and contains many colonial pictures and other relics, all of interest in connection with early Boston history. This building was formerly the headquarters of the Provincial Government. In the street, on its eastern side, took H s I ' 98 A TRIP TO AMERICA. place what Is known as the "Boston Massacre," when the troops fired upon the populace, after which Samuel Adams, voicing the indignation of the town, made his memorable and successful demand for the removal of the soldiery outside the city. A few yards from the old State House we came upon Faneuil Hall, the American " Cradle of Liberty." This is a most interesting- structure. The town's meetings were held here in the last century, and in 1800 it was enlarged to its present size. It is a very plain rectangular building with cupola. In this historic place are held the gatherings of the inhabitants when anything special stirs the public mind, and it is then crowded by standing audiences, there being no seats. I was much interested in the Old South Church, the shrine of Boston. It was buiit in 1729, on the site of a cedar wood church, which had been built in i66g. At onetime the most famous church in Boston, it is now a museum of revolutionary antiquities. The old church is a quaint building with a tall spire and clock ; the interior is square, with double galleries on the ends. In this church were organized the prelitninaries that led to the march of the dis- guised men who went down to the wharf and poured the tea over- board. Through the window behind the pulpit climbed Joseph Warren, in 1775, to make the oration on the anniversary of the " Boston Massacre," which, it is said, helped on the final departure of the British soldiers that culminated in the battle of Lexington. Benjamin Franklin was baptized in this church, and George Whitefield preached here. As an historical relic it deserves a visit, standing as it does, *' a landmark of the colony, amid the surging throngs about it, who make up the daily life of Boston." From the old South Church we went to King's Chapel, where a mid-day service was to be held. The preacher was the Rev. E. E. Hale, D.D. , the eminent author and divine, sometimes called the *' Kingsley of America." It was indeed an extraordinary man that I had the pleasure of listening to on this occasion, a man of great individuality, with a dark and expressive face, bearded and tanned, and full of deep wrinkles and furrows ; such a face, as we some- times say in Yorkshire, "might have been hammered out of old penny pieces," so worn and battered-looking, with eyes that seemed not to be fixed on his congregation, but to be gazing inward or far away, and a voice of great power, and yet full of gentleness and pathos. The sermon was delivered in a conversational tone and style, and rivctted the attention of his hearers so that, whilst out- side the walls of the church the busy life of Boston was in full swing, inside we had the quiet and calm of the Sabbath. At the conclusion of the service, the preacher kindly accom- panied me round the interior of the building, pointing out the various memorials to departed worthies fixed on the walls, and giving a brief n'sitffid of much that was interesting and helpful in n troops ig the cessful "aneuil resting entury, y plain re held iirs the ;. there irine of church, ; church s. The ck ; the i church the dis- ea over- Joseph ' of the eparture (cington. George s a visit, surging where a v. E. E. tiled the nan that (f great tanned, |e soine- Id penny hied not ll or far ess and mie and iilst cut- in full accom- lout the [lis, and jlpful in Rev. E. E. Hale, D.D. 'A lOO A TRIP TO AMERICA. their lives and actions. Dr. Brooke Herford, formerly of Manches- ter, England, accompanied us, and invited me to lunch with him on the following day. I could not resist the temptation, as wc went to dinner at the Union Hotel, to have a peep into the "Old Corner Book Store," known for generations as the noted book shop of this literary com- munity. Its gambrels and old fashioned gables recall a style of architecture that is all but extinct. Trinity Church, Boston. After dinner I visited Trinity Church, a peculiar looking build- ing, as will be seen from our illustration. It is a huge pile of red brick, with a lantern rising from great piers, and it cost, with the land upon which it stands, one hundred and sixty thousand pounds sterling. The sexton accompanied me in my inspection of the interior. It is beautifully decorated, an enormous quantity of gilt being used. It contains many rich stained windows, and a massive circle of brass goes round the sounding board of the pulpit, and a lamp hangs down like a brazen pitcher from it. The pulpit BOSTON AND SALEM. lOI ches- m on It the tore," com- y\e of bund- le of red ^ith the [pounds of the of gilt lassive and a pulpit is roomy, as it needs to be, to accommodate the portly form of the preacher. The interior is finished with black vvalnut, and is lighted by many brilliant pictured windows. We went into a beautifully finished chapel, connected with the church by a handsome cloister. In this room the social meetings and week-day services are held. Under this is a room for the young people's meetings. I was sorry that I had no opportunity of hearing a sermon from Dr. Brooks, who is, perhaps, the greatest preacher America possesses at the present time. "Truth through personality" is his description of preaching. It is said that " while in the pulpit the Doctor likes gravity, he is sarcastic in speech concerning the * merely solemn ' ministers." He says they are " cheats and shams." As they stand with their ** little knobs of prejudice down their strait coats of precision," he likens them to the "chest of drawers which Mr. Bob Sawyer showed to Mr. Winkle in his little surgery : ' Dummies, my dear boy,' said he to his impressed and astonished visitor ; * half the drawers have nothing in them, and the other half don't open.' Such a description is very, very far from applying to the satirist himself. Dr. Brooks has long been known as the best pulpit orator of the Low Church Episcopalians in America. He was born in Boston on December 13th, 1835, of an old New England family, being one of six brothers, four of whom became honoured clergymen of the Episcopal Church. He received his early education at r.ishop Phillips Brooks, D.D, Phillips Academy, Exeter, N. H., founded by an ancestor of his; pursued his studies at the Boston Latin School, entered Harvard, was graduated there in 1855, and studied theology at the seminary in Alexandria, Va., after which, being ordained in 1859, he was called to the Church of the Advent in Philadelphia as assistant to his old pastor. Dr. Vinton. In 1862 he became rector of the Church of the Holy Trinity, Philadelphia. Very young for so onerous a charge, he sprang at once to the position of a famous preacher, and crowded congrega- tions listened with delight to the eloquent simplicity with which he presented the truths of the Gospel. It was there, in the first months of the war, that he preached with magic force against slavery, and his eloquence was widely recognized as one of the potent factors in fanning the flame of patriotism which sent Pennsyl- vania's sons in thousands to the front to fight for the Union. ' 1 102 A TRIP TO AMilRlCA. After a most successful pastorate of seven years in Holy Trinity he accepted, in 1870, the rectorship of Trinity Church in Boston, and, at the age of thirty-five years he entered upon the o a a u > < » C o B B o U [ i;;f^!ife,:,!v:'ii:|,;; ; !,;#■ ■, III iMI, '< ! ;'J| i"!''!' '■i'irl'i'|!';':i''!'i|fc!iili| I' I"' ini' III A work which has proved of such unique and telling influence on church life and general religious thought in that city. Men of all classes and creeds are there his constant listeners, and the edifice is always crowded. nosTON' Axn salem. 103 loly h in the § o CO 3 a u > < o » c o (= g o U |e on If all lifice He recognizes every phase of Christian activity if it is earnest and helpful, and has always shown himself g"lad to preach the Word of the Master in the churches or halls of Christian org-aniza- tions other than his own. It is this broad sympathy with every Christian effort which has made Dr. Brooks more popular than any other Episcopal minister in the country. Since he became rector of Trinity Church he has declined many calls elsewhere, among them a professorship at Harvard and the oi'C\cc of Assistant Bishop of Pennsylvania, to which he was elected in 1886, but has now accepted the Bishopric of Massachusetts, which necessitates his lea\"ing Trinity Church. Dr. Brooks is well known in England, having preached on many occasions in St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and before the Queen at the Chapel Royal. The preacher's home, a uniquely designed edifice, is in proximity to the church, on Clarendon Street. When I called there, I was informed by the old lady who came to the door, that the Doctor was attending the Episcopal Convention, then being held in the city. I may add here, that on the day following my visit, the eminent divine was elected Bishop of Massachusetts. I should have liked a brief interview with this great preacher, who stands head and shoulders, physically, mentally, and spiritually above nearly all his compeers. I have at various times received from the Doctor a volume of his writings, and also a promise that some day he hoped to visit the ancient town in Yorkshire in which my life has been spent, but I " calculate " that I shall have to absolve him from the promise, at least until the calls upon him are fewer and less urgent. From Clarendon Street it is but a short distance to the home of the genial " Autocrat of the Breakfast Table," in Beacon Street, in the aristocratic Back Bay district of the city. Having corres- ponded with Dr. Holmes for many years, I had no misgivings as to the nature of the reception I should meet with from the poet. I therefore caused the bell to ring with no uncertain sound, and in a few moments I was ushered into the reception room, to wait while my card was taken upstairs to the Professor. In a few minutes he appeared at the head of the stairs, and, calling me by name, desired that I would come up into his library. 1 shall never forget the cordial greeting I received on entering the charming room, with the intimation also that it was indeed an unexpected pleasure I was giving. The library is at the back of the house, a large and pleasant retreat, with an immense bay window, which the poet calls My airy oriel on the viver ^hore. Before I could be seated, the poet took me to see the view from this window, which overlooks the Charles River, and pointing to Cambridge, which lay on the other side of the water, he said, " Yonder is my birth place, also the college in which I was trained, and the cemetery where many of my friends and relatives are buried, \ 104 A TRIP TO AMERICA. and where I hope to rest." I replied that " I hoped the world mij^ht yet be favoured with many more contributions from his pen, and that the day when he should leave us mig-ht be far distant. We had breakfasted and taken tea with him, to our infinite dclij^^ht, and if we were spared to sup with him, the pleasure would doubt- less be intensified." *' I am afraid," said the poet, "that I cannot promise myself to do more than perhaps send an occasional article or poem to the magazines, for I am not so eager for work as I once was, though ^ . ,;. . I have fairly good '^^'^^^^^■;>iy^ health and enjoy ''^- life as much, I dare say, as any one can be ex- pected to do, when over eighty years of age." The poet at- tributes his good health and the remarkable vigour of his intellect, to the constant care he has long taken of himself. Though never a very strong man, he was neverthe- less wiry in his younger days. The rooms that he daily occupies are furnished with barometers, thermometers, aerometers, and otherinstruments > to prevent his incurring the least risk of taking cold. His time is carefully portioned out, so much to reading, so much to writing, so much to exercise, so much to recreation. His meals are studies of prudence and digestion. All this seems congenial to the doctor, and with such methods he indulged the hope sometimes that he would attain 100 years, which he said, *' I would dearly like if I could remain in possession of my faculties." We trust that the veteran poet may realise his wish, and become in due course that vara avis, a centenarian. ^^^U/^^ '^^^^^ii^^^^i^. I I world is pen, llstant. Iclight, doubt- mysclf 1 to the though ly good J enjoy luch, I as any be ex- to do, r eighty oet at- s his 1th and rkable of his to the [care he aken of ^hough very an, he erthe- in his days, that >ccupies nished meters, eters, rs, and uments, is time .vriting, studies doctor, that he like if I hat the sc that IS I i BOSTON AND SALEM. lOii With regard to the river upon which we were still looking, ho said " It is indeed a pleasant outlook, and deserving of any one's interest for its suggestiveness. This river has been beloved and written about by some of our best authors, and one cannot look at it without being reminded of them. I can also, if I desired it, step from my own grounds into a boat and reach almost any part of the civilized world without change of vessel or leaving the water." The Doctor now desired me to be seated, and took his place near his writing table. On it was a pile of letters, and I ventured to hint that his work in the way of correspondence must be considerably heavy, when he replied that he could manage to get through it with the aid of his secretary, but, his trouble was with the ladies, "who call upon me in season and out of season, at almost all hours of the day, and ofttimes on the most frivolous pretexts, and thus much of my time is wasted." I was about to condole with him on the inflictions which he had to endure, when a rap canie on the library door, followed by a message from the maid that " Mrs. X would like to see the Doc*^or." It would have done my reader good to see the merry twinkle of the aged poet's eye as he passed out of the room to answer the summons. After a few minutes he returned, and said that, "the illustration to the observation he was making had come rather sooner than he had expected it, and while he was ever anxious to oblige his many friends, either in the writing of an autograph, or answering letters, it was too bad to take up his time with matters of little or no moment." During the Doctor's absence from the room, I glanced round, and saw books on every side, and on the walls a fine painting by Copley ; the original picture of her whom he has immortalized as "Dorothy Q," and also two portraits of winners of the Derby. The writing table stands in the middle of the room, is large, and has a flat top, on which both the Doctor and his secretary find room to work. Everything upon it was in scrupulous order. On the right of where I was sitting, was a revolving book- case filled with dictionaries, encylopoedias, and other works of reference, and on my left, a corner filled with books, on one shelf of which, in their conspicuous scarlet covers, stood some volumes having reference to the history of the county in England in which I take a special interest. The Doctor in the kindliest manner expressed the pleasure these volumes had given him, saying, " I feel I know Yorkshire and the old English life, since reading those books. I keep them handy, and often take them down, always to find something of interest in their pages." I mentioned his visit to England, and the pleasure it must have been to him, and he replied " It was indeed a most enjoyable visit," and then he made reference to some of the places he had visited in the Old Country, and the people he had met with. io6 A TRIP TO aMeRICA. I told him of my visit to Whittier, the ^rand old Quaker poet, and the Doctor said how pleased he was to hear so j^ood an account of his health, and **he trusted that he mi^ht yet be spared to the world for many years. Whittier was a man who was beloved and revered by every one, although there was about him a certain reticence." The Doctor further remarked that " pretty much all my friends are dead. Kmerson, Longfellow, Agassiz, Freeman Clarke, and many more. I miss them very much." Since my visit to Boston, another of the Doctor's intimates has left hit.i, the poet, critic, and diplomatist, James Russell Lo 'ell. In drawing our interview to a close, the poet expressed his delight at the English appreciation of his books, and said he should never forget the many kind and sympathetic letters he had received from his many admirers in the Old World. One more incident of my visit, and I have done. The Doctor would insist on my acceptance of any volumes of his writings that he had not already sent to me, and I came away with an intimation that when he had added his autograph to the books, they would be forwarded to New York to await my pleasure. Amongst those sent was a medical work bearing date, 1838, indicating pretty nearly how long the author has been writing for the public, and yet he retains as high a place in the affections of his readers as ever he did. Nearly sixty years of work from his pen, and it is not yet idle. As Dr. Holmes opens the door for us, we feel that we are bidding farewell probably, to one of the gentlest of autocrats, and most genial of men, one who has '* ad '"■•ed every branch of literature which he has entered, by his scholarship, his genuineness, and his originality." In the evening I went to a reception at the Parker House, which has for years been one of the most prominent of the leading Boston hotels. The house is elegant externally and sumptuously furnished within. This was the only occasion which afforded me a view of the New England ladies in society. The party was a large one, more than one hundred and fifty persons being present, three-fifths of whom were ladies. There were many handsome women present, and I was given to understand that all of the fair sex were con- nected in some way with literature, journalism, music, or the fine arts, so that it was quite a representative assembly. My impres- sion of the New England women, in the intercourse I had with them, here and elsewhere, is, that they are bright, lively, intelli- gent, somewhat inquisitive, yet withal very amiable and attractive specimens of their sex and nationality. The following abridged account of the proceedings, which were, I was informed, typical t r poet, ccount to the 2cl and :crtain friends e, and Joston, ic, and ;w to a Ltion of nd and i in the Doctor .-ritin^s A'ith an books, easurc. , 1838, ting- tor tions of rom his we are .ts, and tnch of neness, JHouse, leading iLiously of the , more Ifths of Iresent, re con- he fine ppres- with lintelli- ractive [ridged typical noSTON A\n SALEM. 107 of the social and public life of the city, is taken from one of the leading Boston journals : *' Mrs. Sallie Joy White, one of the best known women journalists of the country, for five years president of the New England Women's Press Association, and now its first honorary vice-president, completed this month her 21st year in journalism, and the anniversary was marked by a brilliant reception and banquet given in her honour by the Women's Press Association, last evening, at the Parker House. •* The occasion was a notable one, lovingly planned for and brought to success by the women of the New England press, who feel their in- debtednesj to Mrs. White, who, as tlie first woman on the Boston press, opened the door for the many who fol- lowed, until to- day there is no newspaper of anv standing which has not one or more w o m c n o n it s statT. "Mrs White began her career as a ' n e w s p a p e r- w Oman,' 21 years ago, on the Boston Post After some Parker House, Hoston. years of good work on the paper, she was invited to a position on the Boston Advertiser, leaving it to ^o to the Herald, where she has been one of the most valued workers. *' Among the 150 or more guests assembled to honour Mrs. White were many of the leading literary, artistic, and musical people of the city, members of the staff of nearly every newspaper in Boston, and representatives of every profession. Nearly all of the leading women's clubs were also represented. "The reception, which was held in the crystal parlour, began at 7 o'clock, the guests being presented to Mrs. White by Mrs. Merrill, president of the association. io8 A TRIP TO AMERICA. i i ! II "At 8 o'clock the procession was formed, and the line of march, to the music of the Fadettc orchestra (six young ladies dressed in white), which played delightfully throughout the even- ing, was taken up to the crystal dining-room, where the banquet was served. Out of compliment to Mrs. White, the decorations were all in white, giving thus a most charming and fairy-like effect to the room. Upon each of the six tables were magnificent centre- pieces of callas and Easter lilies and ferns Hundreds of hydran- geas and white spireas bloomed and blossomed among the fruit and bonbons, and white carnations and delicate ferns were thickly strewn over the tables. Silver candelabra bearing white candles glistened among the flowers, and at each plate was laid a dainty menu, tied with white ribbon, and bearing on its front page in silver letters, the following inscription : — * To Mrs. Sallie Joy White, in honour of her 21st anniversary in journalism.' *' On the second page was the sentiment : Let sallies of wit, abundant and hrigh*', Ami joy unconfined be ours to-night ; To make this white dinner a lasting delight. In honour and love of our Sallie Joy \Vhite. " After an liour and a half spent in discussing the elaborate menu, Mrs. Merrill rapped to order with the association's gavel of ebony and silver, and after a few graceful words of cordial welcome introduced Miss Catherine Eleanor Conway, of the Pi7oi editorial staff, well-known as a poet and critic, who gave the salutatory in verse. "Mrs. Merrill then voiced the feeling of the Woman's Tress Association, that the nccable anniversary should be commemorated in some lasting form — some souvenir of the occasion which should always recall to Mrs. White the affection which has crystallized around her form the women who have followed in her path — and called upon Miss Winslow, the association's treasurer, to give to Mrs. White the association's lovii ; gift. " Miss Winslow made a tou^ .ling speech, full of gratitude for Mrs. White's pioneer work, and then presented her with the jewels, which wee the gift of the club. They consist of a beautiful diamond star for the corsage, and diamond ear jewels. "Addresses were given by Ex. Gov. Long, Mr. Frank J. Bon- nelle, of the Sittiday Ilcmhiy Mrs. White, Mrs. Julia Ward Howe, and original poems recited by Mrs. Louise Chandler Moulton, Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Blake, Miss McBride, and Mr. Henry O. Meara, of the Boston Journal.^' The happy evening was brought to a close by the singing of " Auld Lang Syne," and it was getting near the small hours when I reached Salem with my friends. Apkii. Thirtieth. — Went into Boston, and visited the City Hall, a handsome structure, erected in 1862, at a cost of ^100,000. I \\as shown the City Records by their custodian. The volumes, ' o u si tl tl c line of Tf ladies le even- banquet orations ke effect t centre- hydran- Tuit and thickly candles a dainty page in riUie Joy elaborate gavel of welcome I editorial lutatory 's Tress morated should stallized ith — and give to itude for e jewels, eautiful J. Bon- Howe, )n, Mrs. Meara, a close Inear the [he City 1100,000. jolumes, BOSTON AND SALEM. 109 of which there is a very large number, are kept in fire-proofrooms, under very strict regulations. In the lawn in front of the Hall, stand on one side the bronze statue of Franklin, and on the other, that of Josiah Quincy. The County Court House is at the back of the City Hall, near to which a new building of a most elaborate character is in course of erection, intended to supplant the present gloomy looking structure. city Hall, Boston. I next visited the Museum of Fine Arts, a magnificent edifice, with a projecting portico in the centre, enriched with polished marble columns. It would take months to adequately understand and fully enjoy the collections which are gathered here, and which excel those of any other institution I saw in the States. The ground floor is devoted to statuary, antiquities, etc., the second floor to paintings, engravings, productions of industrial art, and bric-a-brac. The Egyptian room contains a fine collection of antiquities, and the other apartments on this floor are filled with casts from the antique, forming the most complete collection in America. Upstairs are the picture galleries, containing an excel- lent collection of paintings. no A TRIP TO AMERICA. ■ »- I' I I was greatly interested in the Japanese collection of pottery, etc., which is loaned to the Museum by Professor Morse, of Salem, and is valued at over ;^20,ooo. It comprises several thousand specimens, many of them being rare and of great value. Other rooms contain choice collections of porcelain, majolica, and Sevres ware ; all manner of carved ivory and precious stones, mediaival religious jewellery, medals, and vases, ancient weapons, and fine laces. The stranger in Boston must not neglect paying; a visit to this storehouse of antiquities and other treasures. Went to luncheon at Dr. Brooke Herford's, in Chestnut Street, and enjoyed very much the society of the worthy doctor, his wife, and three intelligent daughters, all of whom had many questions to ask about the old country, and also as to how 1 was enjoying my visit to the States, and what I thought of America ; queries which I had already had put many times since I landed in New York. I easily evaded the questions, on this as on other occasions, by intimating that it was my intention after my return to England to place on record my mipressions of both country and people, and in the meantime preferred not to commit myself to a premature opinion which might require modification. My next visit was to the Young Men's Christian Association Rooms, in a building near Boylston Street, a structure architec- turally fine, and in its internal arrangements most complete. I was shown over the building by the secretary, and saw the reception, reading, and conversation rooms, lecture hall, and an ample and well-equipped gymnasium. The Association was founded in 1857, and is the oldest of the kind in the country. It meets all the requirements of young men coming to the city as strangers, pro- viding for them an attractive resort, pleasant companionships, and Christian influences. It has a very large membership, and its work is varied and extensive. From this centre of intellectual light and leading I went to another of a somewhat different character, namely, the publishing offices of Messrs. Houghton, Mifflin & Co., in Park Street. I had a letter o\' introduction from Dr. O.W. Holmes to Mr. Garrison, son of Mr.\V. Llo}d Garrison, the abolitionist, and on presenting this I was greeted most heartily by this" worthy son of a worthy sire," who shortly introduced me to the head of the firm, Mr. H. O. Houghton. This gentleman is the founder of the publishing house which bears his name, and which is one of the first concerns in magnitude, not only in Boston, but in the States, having offices in Chicago, New \'ork, and London, Hngland. Before I parted company this day with my host, I was quite prepared to credit the statement that the " firm of II., M. & Co. stands in the foremost rank, both in the magnitude of its business, and tiie high mechanical and artistic quality o\' the productions of its press." an en su iS C: dv Cc on ad BOSTON AND SVLEM. Ill pottery, f Salem, housand , Other ica, and ; stones, veapons, raying; a Chestnut • doctor, lom had »o as to thought ny times Liestions, was my cord my neantime m which sociation architec- p. I was eception, Tjple and in 1857, all the ;rs, pro- lips, and and its went to jibiishing 1 had |son, son Ig this I re," who jughton. :h bears JLidc, not ;-o, New [his day Lhat the in the artistic I was much pleased with my interview with Mr. Houghton in his historic room at No. 4, Park Street, where so many important business consultations must have taken place between the publisher and the eminent men in literature, science, and the arts, who have written during the last thirty years, and whose works have bejn introduced to the reading world through the medium of this hrm. The early history of the head of the firm is worth attention. He was born in a little Vermont village in 1823, became an appren- tice to the printing business at the age of thirteen ; his evenings Young Men's Christian Association Buildings, Boston. and other spare moments being devoted to study. At nineteen he entered college with sixpence halfpenny in his pocket, but with a substantial preparation and dauntless resolution. He graduated in 1846, and in 1849 commenced his life-work as a master-printer in Cambridge, three miles from Boston. The "works" were a dwelling house of moderate dimension, situate near Harv;ird College. Three years later a removal was made to the presetit site on the banks of tlie Charles River, where the " Riverside I'ress" has advanced from one stage of progress to another, until the present nOSTON AND SALEM. "3 imposing- group of buildings testifies to the success of the purpose for which they were reared, namely, " to do the best work that could be secured anywhere, and to make books that should satisfy the artistic feeling as well as the literary sense." A glance round the shelves of the main office in Park Street will prove how well this last stipulation has been met, for here are fine illustrated editions, alongside less costly productions, but all of the best, both in literary quality and detail of manufacture. The eminent publisher entertained me with many reminiscences of his connection with literature and literary men, notably with The Atlantic Monthly^ which has been published by the firm since 1873, when its contributors, with whom he was in almost daily contact, were such men as Longfellow, Emerson, Bryant, Whittier, Holmes, Jowett, and others equally famous, whose portraits adorn the walls of the room in which we were sitting. This, however, was not the room in which the editorial work of The Atlantic was done, but I saw thjit interesting spot subse- quently. From that sanctum were sent forth several most popular works, not the least noteworthy being The An toe fat oj the Breakfast Tabk\ though this was by no means the only classic which first appeared to th^ public through the columns of the magazine. Other magazines, well-known in both England and America, are sent out from Park Street ; one. The Andover Revitiv, which is for religious 1 114 A TRIP to AMERICA. readers, and The Journal of Folk-Lorc^ a work for antiquaries and philologists. Mr. Houghton, having invited me to accompany him to Cambridge in order that I might see the company's printing works. Harvard University, Longfellow's house, and other objects of interest, we entered his carriage and drove through a new and fine suburb of the city until we came into the neighbourhood of the business part of Cambridge, for the city has in it at the present time, some of the largest and most completely furnished printing offices in America. It is noted as being the first place in the States where a printing press was set up in 1639. On entering the offices at the "Riverside Press" we were received by Mr. Mifflin, who was in high spirits, having in his , hand a volume just fresh pflfl/f from the binders, and on iiiil'jM which he had expended much thought, and was rewarded by the perfect success of the invention, namely, a method adopt- ed in the binding by vhich a remarkable combination of strength and flexibility was j secured. The book opened as if to invite reading, yet was so firm that one had no fear that it would fall to pieces. From my examination of it, I felt that this new process of binding would com- mend itself to all readers as filling a long felt want. I shall not attempt a description of the buildings of the " Riverside Press," as a good idea of these can be obtained from the accompanying illustration. The internal arrangement is such that the work of book making is carried on, from beginning to end, in rooms that are models of tidiness and cleanliness. The employees number six hundred, half are males and half are females. My inspection ended in the store room, where great piles of books are on every hand — *' infinite riches in a little room." On leaving the place I could not but echo the sentiments of another visitor, who says of it : *' It is hard to exaggerate the influence for good which this establishment .as exerted upon the world of letters, and consequently upc. the worlu of men. We find in the tr''0\vth and achievement of tiie Ri'-trside Press a Ed'torial Room of The Atlantic Mon'hly. W I >f the from such to end, [loyees My Iks are Iments Ite the )n the We ress a 1 1( A TRIP TO AMERICA. : i special incitement to young' men to make the most of themselves in whatever department of life they are placed. There is always room for better thing's than have yet been done. Pluck, provi- dence, perseverance, and the progressive spirit will work greater things than anybody has yet accomplished. This is the lesson which young men may learn from the history of the Riverside Press, and from the history of every establishment which has made a leading place for itself in the world." Re-entering' my friend's carriage, we visited the main building's of the great Boston University of Harvard. This is in the centre Mr. Houghton's Room, Park Street. of Cambridge, occupying grounds covering twenty-two acres. The college yard is full of buildings of ancient and modern construction, some of them being of large size and beautiful archi- tecture. Harvard was founded only ninety years later than our own Cambridge. The graduates number thousands of the most famous Americans. There are 1,500 students with 60 professors, and many tutors and instructors. We inspected the Memorial Hall, a magnificent structure, costing ^80,000, built in memory of the graduates who fell in the lodern larchi- In our most |ssors, :ture, In the ikTS>^:nl' V 1 . ■' '(.1 I B 3 I ! ii8 A TRIP TO AMERICA. Civil War. We entered the vestibule, which divides the building internally. It has grand windows of stained glass, through which poured the mellow light, a marble floor, and a splendid vaulted ceiling of ash. On one side is the Sandar's theatre, seating 1,300 persons, used for Commencement days and other large gatherings. On the other side of the vestibule is the Great Hall, used as the refectory, 160 feet long, 60 feet wide, and 80 feet high, with an impressive roof of open timber work. The walls are nearly filled with portraits and busts of distinguished graduates and benefactors of the University. It was within a few minutes of the dinner hour, and the tables were set in order, ready for the thousand students who would file in presently, while the ebony atten- dants stood round in readiness to do their bidding. Horace E. Scudder says of this place, "It is this building which holds the choicest hope and the bravest memory of the University. . . The lofty vestibule, by silent iteration, bids one lay deep the foundation of a scholarship upon national well-being, connecting as things inseparable the heroic sacrifice and the heroic devotion to learning. The great dining-hall is at once the meeting-place of hundreds ol' young men, bound together by all that makes youth glad, and con- stantly before one are women too, who have the New England of 'AftA/vvxy Vl .S^O-,'^-^^ n-XX.O-u»a the faces of that long line of men, and of joined the college by a thousand ties to history. The stern ancestry of New England days, the opulent men and women whom Copley and Stuart painted when the colonies were consciously and unconsciously husbanding their strength for the approaching autonomy ; the familar faces of BOSTON AND SALFM. 119 presidents and professors, whose devotion to learning' remains as a precious legacy ; the younger, nearer face of the hero of young Harvard, brave, generous, dying- with the halo of obloquy,- all these forms and spiritual presences fill the air of the great hall ,with something more than an academic glory. . . . Here is the centre of the University of to-day, binding the past and the future, making great things possible, because it holds and records great things achieved." We visited many of the other halls, and the University Library, and then drove to Longfellow's house, once the headquarters of Washington, but occupied from 1837 until his decease in 1882 by the famous New England poet. It is a large mansion, painted white, standing on a gentle eminence, partially screened from great It once Lce of oung (■ether lakes Con- ine are have md of Ipulent !n the their :es of Residence of II. \V. Longfellow. the highway by a grove of elms. That the master spirit who once dwelt here was go 'e for ever, and could no longer welcome the pilgrim, was a thought that gave a tinge of sadness to our visit. We saw Elmwood, the home of James Russell Lowell, and should have called upon him, but my companion, his neighbour, said that he was too unwell to receive visitors. Since mv visit to Cambridg^e the poet has departed this life, much to the regret of his thousands of admirers, in both hemispheres. W'e passed by, but had not time to visit Mount Auburn Cemetery. We saw the massive granite entrance-gate of Egyptian architecture, on whose outside is carved, "Then shall the dust return to the earth as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who ga e it." I20 A TRIP TO AMERICA. ; We shortly reached the pleasant home of my host, at this time, however, shadowed by a j^reat calamity, namely, the loss of his partner in life, which had happened but a few days previous to my visit. I was pleased to find that he was not left in loneliness, for three amiable and accomplished daug"hters were there, to minister to his comfort and happiness. I returned to Salem in the evening, and next morning passed through Boston, on my way to Spencer. Before bidding good-bye to the " Modern Athens," I would say how greatly I enjoyed my visit to this city, where the public spirit of its citizens is seen on every hand. Well may the Bostonians be proud of it ; of its high rank in the country ; of its culture and energy ; its history, and all that it has accomplished. What numbers of proofs I came across, of the love for it, by living and deceased sons, who have devoted their fortunes to it, by giving statues, fountains, libraries, halls, and best of all, educational endowments, some of which are of a princely character. It seemed as though I should have to spend months in the city, if I wished to see all its schools, libraries, colleges, museums, scientific and art collections, and other educational institutions. And yet, Boston is not without its drawbacks. "Boston," Trollope tells us, "was a Puritan city, in which strict old Roundhead sentiments and laws used to prevail, but now- a-days ginger is hot in the mouth, and in spite of the war (1861-65), there were cakes and ale. There was a law passed in Massachusetts in the old days, that any girl should be fined and imprisoned who allowed a yo.ung man to kiss her. That law has now fallen into abeyance, and such matters are regulated as in other towns eastward." Are they, Mr. Trollope, and is the law in abeyance ? I fancy not. During my visit to Boston occurred an incident which contradicts your conclusion, and also tramples on the assertion that America is ''the land of liberty," where the freedom of the subject is a matter of infinite concern. A Boston young man of good family and of excellent position in society, was standing, late at night, with his wife in a doorway waiting for an East Boston car. East Boston cars come slowly up that w*ay, and, since his wife was young and pretty, he naturally, to beguile the time, slipped one arm about her waist, and "kissed her two or three times." But the proceedings were seen by a police officer, who was in a doorway on the opposite side of the street, and who promptly arrested them and took them to the station-house on a charge of disorderly conduct. The next morning the Boston judge reluctantly discharged them on account of their previous good character, but with a warning not to do it again. It is the understanding in Boston now that there must be no more kissing in public, and the pleasant pastime has been abandoned throughout the city. \ \ sition frway }ly up rally, issed jby a the the J next lount lo it ;t be )een i BOSTON ANO S.M.F.M. 121 A few days later, when in Philadelphia, a somewhat similar incident happened. Isaac Purnell and Sallie Senscman, youn^ people who hope soon to be married, were wandering- hand in hand along a quiet street in Philadelphia at about nine o'clock in the evening. The street was deserted, as is usual with Philadelphia streets. The affection between the young folks was strong, and they stopped in the shadow of a large tree and kissed each other once. They did not know that a police officer was infesting the neighbourhood, but he was, and he arrested them and took them to the police station. There the learned magistrate held them for the grand jury. The next day this able body of citizens indicted them for assault and battery upon each other. They insisted that they had done nothing of the kind, but the State of Pennsylvania insisted that they had, and when I left the city the Philadelphia papers were gravely and unfeelingly speculating as to the term of imprisonment that the lovers will probably have to undergo. It seems to us that this is too Puritanic for the latter half of the nineteenth century, and we should not be surprised, if the Boston and Philadelphia idea spreads and becomes general, if the young people of the United States emigrate to England, or to some other comparatively free country, where the right to kiss and to be kissed is not questioned. Certainly the latter-day state of kii.sing in America is one not to be envied, and as one of the Boston journals said, "We need not stop to trace the history of kissing from the first efforts in that direction on the part of Adam and Eve down to the present time — indeed, it seems to have but little history — it has always been the same and has always been generally indulged in. Kisses may be divided into several classes, as, the mother's kiss, the sister's kiss, the conjugal kiss, the lover's kiss, the young woman novelist kiss, and so forth. Of these, all are entirely proper except the young- woman novelist kiss, which should never be indulged in except on paper. The others have never been prohibited by a civilized people. That is, never till within the last fortnight, and then only in Boston and Philadelphia, but it none the less needs the severest condem- nation ; indeed, to prohibit kissing in Boston and Philadelphia, where existence at the best is dreary, is the height of cruelty." tff^' I ; ins!:?¥yi^:M:^S7i^y:^^^ yym> /.^/^.>l^ ^>flOy^e!^.3^a/--Bt>^d^-^gXLtir,a^^^y(g^s//Tj^;^^Ve^, %' l^- ■.« )ected they The |r men three fact ;land, jtill, I I, who [ition, there •'ifiP^f^^UJ :>J!iW.';*f»-.'JI»,-.V.: ""aAv— ^- a. f.- -i 0-' -T - ■ ■> f ' ■ .:^/' .^:i- >;-. ' >'■* ^f^^ .-^-rf/!^- > *.'.•- . ' 8H "' t 1. ■;:«*-:• n - .»^ -i*. .^:i>=^ [/;;.>-■;'> .^ j.'. i - * v^--- ..-J'. ii. ■"■: ?i*r.' ' • a' ; \.' - - k- _.* I '^- •mSm." ' m-i/ . wj'«. ^ r t«fb* I _n o o *5 s '3 u >— 'o a, i 132 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I are hundreds of Englishmen employed in Lawrence, who have been there ten, fifteen, and twenty years. In the evening" I went about the city with my friends, and was much plensed with all that I saw, for Lawrence is a go-ahead place. The streets throughout are lighted by electricity ; it has one of the most efTicicnt fire brigaJes in New England ; a water supply from three reservoirs, with a total capacity of 42,000,000 gallons ; a morning and an evening daily, four weeklies, and a Sunday newspaper ; free library with 35,000 volumes ; thirty churches, representing all denominations ; twenty well-appointed schools ; numerous charitable institutions ; eighty miles of streets, well laid out, and admirably shaded with fine trees ; four parks ; convenient street tramways, and above all these advantages, a labouring population, reliable, efiicient, and little inclined to strikes and agitation. Such is a summary of tlio main features of this great manufacturing centre, of which an enthusiastic citizen has said that "it is a beautiful city, girt about with hills, thoroughly drained, and far enough inland to escape the harshness of the Atlantic east wind. Wide streets, magnificently shaded with elms of forty years growth ; beautiful parks ; unsurpassed country drives, through the very heart of the ancient and historic county of Essex ; every educational advantage, healthy and sunny homes, and all in the midst of an orderly and industrious community." On our return to Mr. Tetley's home, where I was to spend the night, quite a party of factory workers, of whom I had some previous knowledge, had assembled, and I learnt from them some- thing of their habits and home life, and as to how they liked the country. The unmarried ones, I found, stayed in some one of the many boarding houses in the city, whilst the married people lived in their own homes, generally a wood house, consisting of two or three rooms, in many cases the lower floor of the building being occupied by one family, and the upper floor by a second, not always giving the privacy that could be desired. Most of the houses have gardens attached to them, in which almost anything will grow. For a house of three small rooms a rent of eight shillings weekly was paid. April TwENTV-F^oHTII. — Took train for Lowell, twelve miles distant, a town to which Dickens devoted a chapter of his American Notes, and of which Frederika Bremer writes, about the "glorious view from Drewcroft Hill, on a cold winter evening, of the manufactories of Lowell, lying below in a half circle, glittering with a thousand lights, like a magic castle on the snow-covered earth." On reaching the city, I made my way to the Merrimac mills, only second in importance to the Pacific mills at Lawrence. The mills are situated alongside the Merrimac stream, and present an imposing front to the water. I contented myself with a more ) have id was -ahead it has . water »00,0G0 and a thirty ooiiited streets, parks ; .i,res, a striij,ity-one doing business in all parts of the world. Their buildings are amongst the finest in the city, one of them, the Charter Oak Insurance Company, being located in a granite palace which cost ;;^i 20,000. From the roof of these offices I had a magnificent view over the cit} and its environs. There are also here seventeen banks, extensive book-publishing houses, charitable institutions, twenty-one temperance societies, and superior educa- tional foundations, notably. Trinity College, a fine building 1,300 feet long, in grounds covering eighty acres. We drove to the " Colt Mansion," at one time the home oi' Col. S. Colt, the inventor of the " Colt's revolver." The house is a large and ornate structure, standing in the centre of spacious grounds adorned with groves, lakes, statuary, conservatories, and a deer park. A visit to the Wadsworth Athenieum, in which are the rooms of the Connecticut Historical Society, filled up the remainder of this day. Besides a large library, many interesting curiosities are kept here, such as King Philip's club, gold pen used for many year* by Washington Irving, Standish's dinner pot, Farmington church drum, the first telegraphic message sent in America, the first number of the first newspaper in America, and hundreds of other equally interesting old-time relics. May I<"h'TH. — Left Hartford by early train for New Haven, the " Elm City," so called from the large number o( noble elms which rise grandly in stateh' rows in every direction. These grand foliage-arched streets, squares, and avenues, are a striking feature in the city, and make a la.sting impression upon the casual \ isitor. Henry Ward Beecher once said that " the elms of New luigland are as much a part of her beauty as the columns of the Parthenon were the glory of its architecture." The elms in New IIa\cn gi\o a charmingly rural aspect to the academic city, and are its pride, as they are evidently its constant care. Nov.here in the States did I see a more beautiful arrangement of trees, for in many oi' the avenues the branches had united, forming Gothic aisles of rich green ind sunlit mterlacinir bow In addition to the beauty of its trees. New Haven is famous for the possession of \'ale College, which, though younger than Harvard and not so wealth)', is held in the highest estimation loi* thr thoioughnw's^t and brecidlli of its classical, scientific, and til ! 1' if, ■ iif 1^2 A TRIP TO AMERICA. |i theological culture. This college was begun in 1701, and during the ilrst year had only one student, now it has eleven hundred students with one hundred and ten professors and instructors. The buildings are of various ages and many styles of architecture, the oldest erections being of plain brick, without ornament, but the newer structures are very elaborate and dignified. I went over the Peabody Museum, the Sheffield Scientific School, the Art School, the Divinity School, and the Gymnasium. I saw also the library of nearly 200,000 volumes, and visited some of the class-rooms during college hours. Much might be written, if space permitted, about this ancient seat of learning ; of its inception and early struggles in Saybrook, where it had its first home, in a long and narrow one-story building, which was afterwards removed to New Haven, when the college was transferred in 17 17 to that city ; of its founders, who drew up in 1708 what is known as "Saybrook Platform," declaring that " the churches must have a public profession of faith, agree- able to which the instruction of the college shall be conducted"; of its distinguished presidents and professors, many of whom have enshrined their names and works in the hearts of their countrymen. One instance of the bravery of these distinguished scholars is worthy of record. In 1779 the fort and town was taken by a party of Hessians, who plundered and partially burnt the city. The Rev. Dr. Napthali Daggett, President of the College, was captured by them with fowling-piece in hand, and forced to guide their columns. Wiien well-nigh dead from mortification, and sore with repeated bayonet wounds, he was asked " Will you fight again ? " The militant divine answered " I rather believe I shall if I have an opportunity." He, or another pastor of the town, was forced to pray for the king, which he did as follows : " O Lord, bless Thy servant King George, and grant him wisdom, for Thou knowest, O Lord, he needs it." Being in New FLaven I could not resist the temptation to call upon " the fiu'met of I'klgewood," the author of " Dream Life," " Reveries of a Bachelor," and other delightful books. I had already seen his home, mentally, as pictured in his writings, but 1 was anxious to see both " nest and bird," so I took the tram to the little \ill;>.ge of Westville, which lies snugly ensconsed at the foot of West Rock. I had seen from the guide books that the grounds of I'Algewood wore free to the public on two days in the week, but having onlya short time to stay in the city I could not conveniently take advantage of this limited permission, so, on the strength of my nationality, and a kindred love for nature and books, I ventured to call upon the farmer-author. After a few minutes' ride I left the tram at ihe terminus of the line and onqviired my way to lulgewood, which 1 was told was about a mile away. I entered a country lane, and crossing W»;st River I King" rd, he call Life," 1 had but 1 to the foot ounds :, hut • take )f my ed to )f the tU'tout Iviver Donald Grant Mitchell (Ik Marvel), t i ! • i :^ 1 5 J' A TRIP TO AMERICA. on an iron bridg'e, went straight alonjj until I came to a fork in the road and turning' to the right I ascended the hill a short distance and then came upon the home of Donald G. Mitch.cll, better known h}' his iium-dc-pliimc of Ik Marvel. A couple of dogs lay basking in the sunshine near the wicket gate, as if keeping guard, but made no demonstration as I entered the grounds. On being admitted within the house I was shown into the drawing room, which opens upon a verandah io the south, and this upon a charming bit of landscape gardening, which comes as a rise to the visitor who has onlv seen the grounds from the surp public road. The lawn in front of me as I looked out ^i the l'>ench window, if not very extensive, was singularly attractive, for the trees and evergreens were so admirably disposed that one appeared to be looking upon an unending vista of gentle eminences and undulations, with choice and richly-varied foliage all around Beyond these, to the right, on the slope of the hill, were coppices of birch, hazel, and other shrubs, grown almost into trees. I was not surprised to learn from the lips of the master that landscape gardening was more his occupation than the writing of boi>ks, for everywhere about this domain there v ere traces of die handiwork of the skilful landscape artist and lover of rural life. After a brief interval I was joined by a daughter of Mr. Mitchell, who informed me that hei' father was somewhat of an invalid, having a short time previously met with a serious accident, Ironi which he was just recovering. He would, however, be glad to see me in his library, to which she led the way, and I found myself in a large and well furnished room, ^vith a broad, low chimney opening, in which a log fire was sr ; .J; -ring. Seated in a capacious arm-chair, surrounded by booiv, inanuscripts, and all the paraphernalia of a scholar's workshop, was the veteran author, a fine-looking specimen of the tribe of "scribblers," tall, broad- shouldered, and squarely shaped ; a complexion pale as if from his recent illness ; the nose slightly aquiline ; a kindly eye, and dark gray hair, worn in careless fashion. The library was adorned with many choice pictures and engr.av- ings, framed most artistically with bark and choice wood;; by Mr. Mitchell in his hours of relaxation from books and gardening. There were books everywhere, ranged ow shelves, piled on tlie writing table, and crowding the wide mantel. We sat and talked on matters, I-'nglish and American ; of the \Msits which my host had made to the old country in 1844, nearly fifty years ago, when, 'n search of health he went to Torquay, and subsc luently tramped over England and Scotland for six months, .";,u 1,1 iike i.uimier spent eighteen months on the Continent c^^ Europe. The remeinbrant e of those happy tla\s was still fresh, and il »Ik i-.p.-o of years did not remind him of failing powers, he should bo g'': .1 I ■> renew his acquaintance with the ever-\arving charms of '*» J* "•'nt, (rom id to see [nyself in chimney lapacious all the uthor, a , hroad- I'rom his nd dark encjrav- by Mr. Irdening-. I on the of the I, nearly Lay, and Imonths, linent of lesh, and should arms of HARTFORD AND NEW HAVEN. 155 1 i English country life and scenery. He indulg-ed the hope sometimes that in the coming- days he would ag^ain be found driving- with a few friends along- the countrj' lanes, and resting- at the old-fashioned hostelries in the old land, than which nothing- could be more enjoyable. After lunch, taken in the company of Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell and their three amiable and g-ifted daughters, my host invited me to accompany one of the latter to the top of the hill behind the house, which rises steeply to the height of some hundred feet, thai I mig^ht see the view from that point. I was amply repaid ^'or the exertion it entailed, for across the flat below, checkered with the various crops, I could see the spires and roofs and tree tops of New llaxen, and the green Fair Haven hills in the eastern horizon. l""olknving the line of the river and southward Acre the waiters of the harbour and the lig-hthouse on its point of rock. Northward was the precipice of West Rock, and north-eastward, beyond the city, the sister eminence. Fast Rock, rising- over four hundred feet from the plain. Reared upon the topmost crag of this hill is the noble monument erected by New Haven to the soldiers who fell in the Civil War ; a magnificent shaft, overlooking the city and seen from afar. Right before me, and distinctly visible, I could see the g-listening- expanse of the Sound, and the sand hills of Long Island. In returning to the house we walked through the neatly-kept kitchen garden, with its rows of currant and gooseberry bus'-.cs, its box-edged walks, and, fur ;» fence, a tall hedge of hemlocL. ., clipped to a dense, smooth wall of dark green, set ofT witi. tli j lighter points of the spring's growth. Mr. Mitchell, in 1853, was appointed Consul for the Utji.o.! States to Venice, but resigned the position in July of the follovili.g year, when he purchased Fdgewood, and has since that time icd the enviable life of a country gentleman, v ith an occasional excursion into the realms of literature and journalism. He was one of the judges of industrial art at the Philadelphia T^xhibition in 1876, and Commissioner from the Ignited .States at the Paris I"!xposition of 1878. I left New Haven for New York b}- an ; ternoon train, and saw c/i route the town of Milford, scitled 250 years ago by .1 colony from Milford, in luigiand. This is a pretty village, v. ith a long and pleasant green, neatly enclosed, and wide streets, lined with arching elms. Our next stopping place was Hridgeport, the birthplace of Tom Thumb, and for many years the home oi Harnum, the show- man, who died here a few days before my \isit. I saw the immense factories which give employment to thousand of artisans, for, in this town of nearly 50,000 souls, are some of the greatest establish- ments in the world 'or makitig se\\ ing machines and firearms. The well-known firms of Wheeler ;ind Wilson, and li wo, are here, and also several noted cartridge and rifle manufactiircrs. W'-y. :| V**' 156 A TRIP TO AMERICA. Passing- the ancient village of Fairfield, dreaniy and tranquil- looking, embowered in trees, we reach Greenwich, a favourite suburban retreat for New York merchants, who live here in large numbe-s. We then i;:;o on to New Rochelle, where lived and died Tom Paine, the noted infidel. Skirting the edge of Woodlawn Cemetery, where Jay Gould, the railway magnate, has built his final home, a magnificent mausoleum, we shortly reach the grand central station of the \^anderbilt lines in New York, and, taking the elevated railway, I was soon settled in my temporary home in Brooklvn. 1 i.^' ranquil- ivourite in large md died jodlawn )uilt his le grand 1, taking 'y home 1 Chapter \'1. ■if PHILADELPHIA AND GLRMANTOWX. ;^AY Sixth. — Loft New York by the ferry boat of the Pennsylvania Railway Company, which carried me >-'-ca>". ■.}{ over the Hudson river to the station at Jersey. This Hi^^^^^'* boat, like many others plying on this river, is an ^■^^~' immense Noah's Ark, that can carry an almost unlimited number of passengers and scores of conveyances on a single trip. It is ilat-bottomed, broad-decked, and pro- pelled by huge paddle wheels ; is also a double-ender, sailing with equal facility either way, We landed in a "slip" under cover, so that bad weather need not be feared. A timber bridge, moving up and down at the outer end as the tide rises or falls, connects the boat with the land, and it is guided directly into its place by the long sides of the " slip," which project into the water. On this occasion, as on others, I fought shy of the " gents' cabin," for the floor was so deluged with tobacco juice, and the air so impregnated with the vile odour of bad tobacco, that I was glad to find refuge in the " ladies' cabin," a commodious and comfortable room, with tiled flooring, mirrors, and capacious seats, half of whose occupants were of the sterner sex, who, out of regard for their health, had avoided their own special quarters. The passage across was soon accomplished, and our crowd of passengers emptied into the waiting room at the railway station, from whence the train starts that is to carry me ninety miles, to the " Quaker city." Jersey city, our point of departure, was originally a stretch oi' flat farming-land, and at the beginning o( this century its population was only thirteen persons, living in a single house ; to-day its inhabitants number 163,033. Its great and rapid growth is due to the development of the railway s}stom during the last quarter of a century. Our train now moves swiftly out of the city, passing through some deep rock cuttings, on emerging from which I had a good is8 A TRlP TO AMERICA. \ie\v of tlic harbour aiul the Statue of Liberty, a very prominent object. We soon reach Newark, a busy munufacturinyf city, to which place some of our Yorkshire manufacturing^ firms have within the last few years transferred their business, and are now carrying- on extensive works, with the assistance of many of their employees from the old country. As we speed along I take note of the American system of railway travelling, as seen on this typical train, which has much about it that strikes me as foreign to our English travelling con- veniences. It is a fast train, accomplishing the distance, ninety miles, in exactly two hours. Many of my ow^n countrymen who have visited America, whilst admitting the superiority of the accommodation and comfort when travelling in the States, set against these the difference in the speed, which is generally thought to be much slower in America. My own experience on this journey, as on others, was that a speed of forty-five miles an hour is quite sufficent to ensure safe travelling on lines of such length and construction as are to be found in a country where you can take a continuous journey of 3,000 miles. I may add that England does not have a monopoly of fast trains. True that the London and North-Western Railway Scotch mail averages a speed of 51-6 miles an hour ; but the Royal Blue Limited Express from New ^'ork to Washington — a distance of 229 miles — makes 52*8 mMes hourly, attaining a maximum rate of 74 miles in 60 minutes during Doivions of the journey. If Ceorge Stephenson, when le placed the first locomotixe on the rail ■. and guaranteed it a speed of six miles an hour, could have foreseen that in less than eighty years the successors of his rude machine would be travelling at the rate of seventy miles an hour ; climbing the sides of mountain ranges, piercing gorges hitherto deemed inaccessible, crossing ravines on bridges higher than the dome of St. Paul's, and traversing the bowels of the earth by means of tunnels, no doubt his big blue eyes would have stood out with wonder and amazement. But he foresaw nothing of the kind ; the only problem present in his mind was how to get goods from the seaports in Western England to London as easily and cheaply as possible, and to do this he substituted for horses, which had for 150 years been drawing cars along wooden or iron rails, the wonderful machine which has revolutionii^ed the freight and passenger traffic of the world. During my five thousand miles of travel by rail in the States, I met with few drawbacks and many advantages, and to some of the latter I will now refer. First as to purchase of tickets, which can be made at any time and at a good many places, in all the villages, towns, and cities, and it is a somewhat anomalous fact that they can often be bought cheaper at hotels and shops than at the booking office of the railway. They need not be purchased 1 i ^nt^ ■ j| i H lW i l ^» ^a*wM t'HILADELPHIA AND GERMANTOWN. 150 mine lit ity, to i have re now f their item of ; much [g con- ninety in who of the es, set houijht Hirney, is quite fth and take a of fast Scotch al Blue ance of rate of tive on could of his iles an gorges higher le earth stood of the goods ly and which rails, rht and ti' n States, ome of which \ all the us fact than at rchascd just when wanted as, not being dated, they arc available at ari\- time. If you enter the train without ticket there is none of the haughty, overbearin*;' cross-questioning we have to submit to in I'^ngland from the ticket-collector ; on the contrary, wlien the conductor of an American train asks for tickets, you simply say '* Ticket for " and it is handed to you. There is no dispute as to how far you have travelled, because the conductor goes through the carriages immediately after the train has left the last stopping place, and examines the tickets of fresh passengers. Another advantage connected with the *' ticket system " is that if a passenger wishes to alight at any intermediate station he has simply to ask the conductor for a " stop-off" ticket, which is at once handed to him without any charge. His original ticket enables him to stay at any place as long as he likes, and is a\ail- able for the rest of the journey whenever he may feel disposed to take it. I have already made mention of the " baggage system," which is a decided improvement upon the English style of transporting luggage, as we term it. And now I will make reference to the carriages, which differ materially from ours in their internal arrangements. A platform at each end gives access to a long, loftv, and handsome apartment accommodating sixty passengers, seated two together on seats on each side of a passage that extends the whole length of the carriage. The seats are reversible, so that a party of four can sit facing each other, and, if it is desired, a table will be fixed between the seats, so thnt those who wish may take a hand at whist, or join in other games. The seats are well stuffed, covered with velvet plush, and are easy to luxuriousness. The windows are made to lift, not to drop, as with us, hence there are no unsightly straps hanging down. They are also fitted with Venetian blinds, wiiich can be opened or shut at pleasure, and the direct rays oi' the sun excluded at will. It is a mistake to suppose that there is only one class of carriage in the States, where all are supposed to be equal, though this is true as a rule. For the ordinary traffic and short distances the carriages are all alike \n appearance, though special provision is made for smokers, ladies and children. But special carriages are provided, with special rates, for long journeys in " fast" and "through" trains. Of these magnificent and ingenious conveyances I shall say something hereafter, but I may add that they come as near perfection in travel as can be hoped for, though great as American achievements ha\e been in carriage building, improvements are ever going on. Since I was in the States a palatial car has been built in Massachusetts for the Montreal and Toronto line of the Canadian Pacific. It is Go feet long, the central "drawing-room," which is turned into a dormitory at night, is ;^2 feet in length, 9 feet in width, and 10 j_' feet in IK i6o A TRIP TO AMERICA. heig'ht, and is furnished with a doi^en easy chairs. The ceiUng is frescoed with a beautiful desig-n representing- the four seasons ; and one of the most striking' novelties consists of six bay windows, Besides this apartment there are lavatories — where a quantity of powdered soap slides into the basin of water on pressing a button, — a kitchen, a safe for valuables, an '* observation room," a private state-room, a library, with writing" desk and medicine chest, and other conveniences. The carriag"e is ventilated by compressed air, and heated by steam from the engine. A few minor advantages in railway travelli* ^ in the States are worthy of mention. When tired of sitting, the traveller can walk the length of the train, and change his seat from one carriage to another, or stand on the platform outside and breathe the fresh air, at the same time obtaining- a better view of the surrounding scenery. If the passenger is of a literary turn of mind, his wants are met by the news-boy, who travels with the train, and who, soon after you have started on your journey, passes through the carriage with a stock of newspapers. Later on, he comes along- with an armful of books, of the " shilling- dreadful " type, with a sprinkling of more solid reading, and books of views. One of these he puts on your knee, or by your side, and in a few minutes he comes round and collects the books, or the money for those that are taken. His next visit is of a more succulent character, as he appears as a vendor of sweets, figs, peanuts, oranges, and bananas. This peripatetic individual is a very useful institution on American railways, for, in addition to the services I have named, he will supply you with cig-ars, or fans, and also point out the points of interest you pass on the journey. I must now say a word for the conductors, who rendered me great service, and, on many occasions, gave me much useful information. They are smart and dignified in appearance, courteous in their behaviour, and what is most surprising, proof against " tips," the offer of which would be regarded as an insult. They have the charge of the entire arrangements inside the car- riages, and when any difficulty occurs, they appear to know exactly how to settle it. During this journey I purchased several New York and other papers, which furnished me with much entertainment, not on account of the value or importance of the articles which they con- tained, but from the way my attention was drawn to them. An American journalist is nothing if not sensational, and whatever the news in the paper consists of, it must be introduced by striking head-lines, which at once arrest the attention. Here are a few I have selected at random : — A disturbance amongst the .^oldiers at Folkestone, England, was announced with the heading — TURBULENT TOMMY. PHILADELPHIA AND GERMANTOWN. i6i ing IS isons ; clows, :ity of utton, )rivate it, and ed air, tes are n walk ai^e to ish air, :encry. its are ), soon [irriagc vith an inklinj^ he puts comes hat are as he ananas. iiorican he will )ints of red me useful larance, , proof insult, he ear- exactly d other not on ley con- m. An ever the striking a few I Inirland, A murder in Kentucky was headed, in large letters — KENTUCKY'S LATEST BLOODY TRAGEDY. An article on the probable failure of the Russian wheat crop appeared under the head-line — HAD FOR THE BABY. A fashionable marriage in New York was chronicled under the heading — LITERATURE WEDDED TO BEAUTY AND GOLD. A description of the funeral of a celebrated author was entitled-- ALL THAT IS MORTAL. Another feature of these newspapers arc the advertisements, which, under the heading " Personal," occupy a large space in almost every issue. Here are a few : — BILLTK WOUIJ) LTKK TO SKE YOU: MARK APPOINTM KXT. GEOK(;il':, box 112 Herald Uptown. I KNOW THAT YOU WILL LOOK SO BEAUTIFUL AND BE SO sweert<2^me to-day. TURQUOLSE. _ LADY (33), AGREEABLE AND ACCOMPLISHED, SEEKS ac- quaintance of appreciative tjenlleman, willing to assist her financially at once, EXCLUSIVE, box 159 Heral d office. MR. B. — MEET ME AT THE CORNEK OF 7TH AV. AND 24111 ST., Friday, at i o'clock sure. W. E. O. MKS. HALL.— COME IMMEDIATELV. GLOVER. PANSY LAKE WOOD.— Vv'IIAT HAS YOUR BAD BOY DONE THAT you do not write him to his office and mnke appointment as before. STRICTLY HONORABLE GENTLEMAN WOULD LIKE TO MEET high toned laily ; none others noticed. Address FIDELITY, 361 Herald. "SAPPHO."— ONE AT MADISON SQUARE FOR YOU: USE MY name ; send or call this afternoon. N. THE FRIENDSHIP OF A LADY OF MEANS DESIRED BY YOUNG gentleman, stranger. HONORABLE, 121 Herald Uptown. '-TRUE BLUE."— PLEASE ^H:ET "COMPANION" MAY i, 6 P..M., between Broadway and 5th av. on 21st st. V. ivl'D.— MEET ME AT SOUTH FERRY, NEW YORK SIDl-:^ Monday, at 2 P.M., rain or shine. J. E. S, WH.L AMY C. BUSBY KINDLY SEND HER ADDRESS TO THE city editor of the Herald ? WRITE AGAIN SAME ADDRESS ; MAKE APPOINTMENT~ IF possible, near 5lh av., Central Park. J. J, 6TH AVENUE "L," 23D ST., NOON.— LADY IN BLACK CONFER favor by addressing PENCIL, 170 Herald office. Under the heading of " The Man about Town," will be found gossip, of a private nature, and which can only be intended to M ii ili ^ \ \ .\S W IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) />..v^^ y. ^ I I.I 1.25 £ LS 12.0 ^^ <,% "^ ^ ■^ '/ '^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation ^^ A^ -^N ^ i\ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTM.N.Y. MSM (716) •72-4S03 l62 A TRIP TO AMERICA. 1 minister to the vanity of the parties interested Here are a few samples taken from a Wisconsin paper :— —Miss Gay Ackley is visiting in Chicago. — Mr. Elijah Parsons is out upon the streets once more after being confined to the house most of the winter. — Henry Zimmerman and wife of Burlington were here with Mr. Z's parents over Sunday. — Mrs. \V. M. Jones and son Willie have returned from a two weeks' visit in Kast Troy and vicinity. — An elcga.;. new walk has been put in front of Wilsey's. — The Free Press is indebted lo J. T. Bartlett for beautiful cut flowers. — D. H. Grover has been visiting his family for a day or two. He h.is accepted a position as travelling salesman for a Chicago jewelry firm. He left for the city Tliursdiy evening. — Ed. Brown, of Whatcheer, Iowa, visited his cousin, F. E. Brown, over Sunday. —Mr. Wm. E. Ennessy of Chippewa Falls visited at P. Fitzgerald's this week. — Harry Falltrick, the Waukesha cigar manufacturer, was in this city Wednesday. — The tenants of Edgemoor, the family of John Dupce, Jr., arrived Thursday afternoon. Whilst we have been indulging in these comparisons between American and English travelling, and the methods of journalism in the States, the train has carried us on to Elizabeth, another rural suburb of New York, largely colonised by the merchants of that city, who have their handsome mansions in its broad and shady streets. This is an ancient town, as antiquity is reckoned in the States, having been settled in 1665. Its principal manufactory is owned by the Singer Sewing Machine Company. The train runs right through the heart of the town, and then ir its onward course pa ises station after station, with smart frame buildings, well-kept lawns, and attractive flower beds. It would be a reproof, as well as a lesson, to the directors of the lines which traverse the great Yorkshire county, England, if they could see the very superior station accommodation on this American railway, to that which is provided for the travellers in the greatest shire of the old country. We next pass much forest, and bog, but very few stations, the land here being but sparsely settled, until we reach Princeton, a small town, but noted as the location of Princeton College, with its magnificent buildings and liberal endowments. This is one of the great seats of American learning, taking rank with Harvard and Yale, and is a powerful factor in the development of American thought and philosophy. A few miles further, and we arrive at Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, a thriving city, chiefly famous for its battle-ground, now covered with modern erections. It is also noted for its potteries, which produce a superior china ware, with the finest and PHILADELPHIA AND GERMANTOWN. 163 2 a few onfincd to nrcnts over ks' visit in ivers. las accepted for the city Jrown, over i this week. n this city ed Thursday s between rnalism in ther rural ts of that md shady ed in the actory is train runs ard course well-kept )f, as well the great y superior ; which is d country, ations, the inceton, a c, with its one of the irvard and American capital of lie-ground, ed for its ; fuicst and most delicate ornamentations. Crossing the Delaware river bridge, we enter the " Keystone State" of Pennsylvania, and are now in the county of Bucks, which, like its namesake in England, is a rich agricultural region. When ncaring Philadelphia, my attention was drawn by a fellow-passenger to the working-men's dwellings, which were on both sides of tiie line. There were thousands of these comfortable residences, within a few miles of the great city, and one could see that the artisans here are far more comfortably housed than their fellow-labourers in New York, where " tenement houses," of a repulsive character, are almost the only kind of homes provided for the workers. We now get our first view of the pleasant surroundings of the *' City of Brotherly Love," as we cross the Schuylkill river, and Fairmount Park. The river runs between tree-clad sloping banks, and on either shore are well-kept park roads, which are well patronized by the citizens who are out for an airing. Our train now slackens speed, and we obtain delightful views of the groves in the higher parts of the grounds, while on our left are the umbrageous regions connected with the Zoological Gardens. The view is filled up by the domes and spires and towers of the city, and its mass of buildings spreading over a large area, for Phila- delphia is a city covering more surface than any other in the States. We are soon carried over an elevated portion of the line, amongst the house tops, right into the heart of the city, and in a few minutes find ourselves in Broad Street Station, where my son is awaiting my arrival. On leaving the terminus we came at once into ''City Hall Square," in which stands the municip.d palace in white marble, which has been in course of erection for the past twenty years, and is even now, in its unfinished state, one of the finest buildings I have ever seen. It is without the tower, which is to be taller than any other steeple in existence, and when finished is to serve as a landmark in approaching the city from every direction. It is already 300 feet high, and when completed will be 557 feet, and surmounted by a statue of William Pcnn, 36 feet high. We entered the building, and went over it with the custodian, who gave us much information about it. The hall is the largest building in America, having over fourteen acres of fioor space, and fi\e himdred and twenty rooms. Its cost is estimated to be ;£^3,coo,ooo. which is being paid for out of the rates, a sum of ;^' 1 30,000 being appropriated yearly. The rooms are finely decor.'ited, more especially the chambers of the Supreme Court of Pennsvlvania, and the other Law Courts and the Municipal Oirices. Within a stone's throw of this edifice, on the northern side of the square, is the Masonic Temple, the finest Masonic building in City Hall, PhiK-iJclphia . I IMIILADELPHIA AMD GERMANTOWX. i<^5 the world. It is in j^^raiiite, in the pure Norman style of architecture, and lias cost with its furniture, ;£.\^oo,ooo. Iiefore leavinj^ the Square, we visited the immense establish- ment bclonginj^ to John Wanamaicer, Postmaster-tleneral oi' the I'nited States, and the largest retail shop-keeper in America. Here is an ai^i^re^ation of shop*? coverini^ an entire block ot tour acres, and rivallinif in all respects its prototypes, the " Louvre" and "Bon Marcht^ " in the French capital. Twelve hundred em- ployees were busily enj^ag-ed in supplyini^ the wants oi' the thousands of ladies who thronged every available inch oi' ground, it is the " Ladies' Exchange" too, for the place was evidently being used Theodore Thomas (ste next page). to keep appointments, to hear the news and gossip of the day, and for many other purposes than barter. The owner o( this mammoth trading establishment has other large business places, and in addition to his duties as Postniaster, is superintendent of the largest Sunday School in the city, a director of the Reading Railway, and devotes much time to art and fmancial matters, lie is the owner of Muncasky's celebrated painting, " Christ before Pilate, " for which he paid the sum of ;£,*24,ooo. Mr. Wanamaker began life poor, and has amassed a large fortune, though yet only in middle life. II I 166 A TRIP TO AMERICA. In the cvcnii. ^ we went to the Grand Opera House, to hear a performance by Theodore Thomas's celebrated band. The mag- nificent spaces of the great auditorium g-ave the music full scope, while its perfect acoustic qualities enabled the softest notes to be heard in the furthest parts of the house. The audience was a larfje one, and it was with dilliculty we obtained a seat at the rear of the buildin<^, but suffered no inconvenience on that account, lor the masterly handlinj^ of the orchestra by the talented conductor, enabled us to enjoy the performance as well as those could who were in front of us. The programme included Beethoven's F/f//i Synif^hoiiy, and an act from Wagner's Lohcu^rfin^ mid seldom, I should imagine, has a j.erformance of this favourite symphony been gi\en with so much smoothness and accuracy, so much feeling and expression. The soloists were Mademoiselle Selma Koert-Kronold, a singer with a powerful voice of good range, and Monsieur A. L. Guille, a tenor of exceptional capacity. Mav Sevknth. — Spent the day visiting some of the interest- ing buildings in Philadelphia ; amongst others, the Academy of Fine Arts, a structure in the Venetian style of architecture, with a highly ornate and striking facade. This costly edifice contains one of the most extensive and, historically considered, the most interest- ing collection in the States,comprisinghundredsof fine oil paintings, and numerous bronzes, marbles, and sculptures, with some thousands of engravings. There was also at the time of our visit a loan exhibition of paintings on view. In addition to its collections, the academy embraces a system of schools for students who intend to become professional artists. From the academy we went to the Post Office, so called, but in reality containing also within its walls the United States Court Rooms, the offices of the Geological Survey, the Light-house Board, the Secret Service, and the Signal Service. Including the site, ;^ 1, 600,000 has been spent upon the erection of this massive structure. Passing along Chestnut Street we came upon the statue of Benjamin Franklin, and a little further down is another to George Washington. We now turned into Independence Square, tastefully laid out in flowers and lawns, with spacious and well-shaded walks. On one side of the square was the one building in the city I most desired to see, namely. Independence Hall. It is an unpre- tentious brick edifice, claiming no attention on account of its architecture, but its historical associations make it incomparablv iterestii ing obj( ity hall of this house that the most important occurrences connected with the establishment of the United States Government took place. Firsts was the meeting of Congress at which it was resolved " That these united colonies are, and ought to be free and independent ar de be St( an of be in! PHILADELPHIA AND f.ERMANTOWN. 167 leorf^fe itefully haded ic city un pro- of its )arably incipal nected place. That endent States; and that all political connection between us and the State of Great Britain is, and oii^ht to be totally dissolved." Second, It was in the same hall, in secret session, on July 4th, i77<> (a memorable day), tliat Congress adopted the immortal Declaration of Independence, which on the 8th was publicly read to the assembled citizens in the State House yard, now known as Independence Square. On entering the Mall and ascendinjj^ the staircase in order to reach the room in which the City Councils meet, my attention was Post Office, Pliiladclphia. arrested by the most venerated object in the States— the '• Indepen- dence Bell," hang-in^ from the roof above the entrance hall. This bell was cast in Knt^land and sent to Philadelphia to be hunj^ in the steepleof the State House Whoever «j;;ave instructions tothe founder, and supplied the inscription for it, must have had a prophetic vision of the uses to which it would be put. Around the upper part of the bell is the motto *' Proclaim Liberty throughout the land to all the inhabitants thereof." It rany^ out its brazen notes right merrily i li I 168 A TKI1> TO A.MliKICA. when proclaimiiiiif the news of the siy^niiii,' of the Declar.uion o[' Liberty. It liad been ruiij^ on many anniversaries pre\ ions to the year lS^o, when it was unfortunately cracked. It occasionally makes pil^,'rimaf,'es under a careful i^'-uard to the threat cities of the country, when international and other exhibitions are bcinj,'- held, and is e\ervwhere received with due nomaire. It is now huiiirover the heads oi' the people, but in full view, for when accessible it itilll M mu 3i'-;;prfara 1^ ::-^^.-^^ ,,-.-^;^ i>^»^a.ji Independence fl.ill, Fliiludclpliia, sufTercil at the hands of relic hunters, who broke off portions to carry away with them. We went into ihe City Council's chamber in which Washin<^ton delivered his " Farewell Address " when closinj4' his term of ollice as first President. On the ^^round floor we visited the eastern room in which the Congress met, and which is preserved in much the same condition as it was on those occasions, even to the old chairs, tables, and iMIILAnELPMIA AND GEK.MAN TOWN. 169 It lions to jiamber when ich the [idition Is, and other furniture. On the walls arc line portraits of the sii^ners oi' the Declaration, and also the orii^-inal " Rattlesnake I''la^s," with their expressive motto, " Don't tread on me." These were the pioneer llat^s of America, takiiii^ precedence oi' the Stars and Stripes. The western room is full ot objects of interest connected w itii the Revolutionary period. .V line portrait oi Kintj Cleor^e ill. by .\llaii Ramsay is here, also portraits of many other I'.iii^lisii Royalties, and a valuable collection of autoi^rajihs and letters written by them. Numerous cases are fitted with ancient weapons, books, paper money, crockerw and clolhiui,^. The old hall is indeed a happy huntinij;' jjfround for the historian and anliquars . On leaving'' the buildinjjf we went to North l'*ifth Street, to the Friends' Burying- (Iround, where Benjamin Franklin and his wife Deborah are interred. The r Miiains lie under a flat stone just inside the i^round, which can be seen through the palisade railinj^- set on the brick wall. After lunch I went to G e r m a n t o w n', noted for its woollen tnanufactories. situat- ed about seven miles from the city. I was anxious to see some Yorkshiremen w h o were engaj4ed in the mills; and also to see t !i e process>;s o f manufacture. The road from the rail- way station into the town was at least a mile in lens^th, bord- Franklin^ Grave. ercd Oil Cacll of its sides with larg-e elm trees, and luiving' many handsome residences standiiii^ back from the footpaths, j^-iving- one the idea that the town was the fashionable suburb of the " Quaker city," where its merchants find ease and quel after the cares and anxieties of the day. Beyond this attractive portion is the business tiuarter, in which are situat'd many large woollen mills, I made enquiries at several of these places for the persons of whom I was in quest, and in each case I was met with the query, " Eh ! yeVe through (from) Leeds or Fjuthersfieid (lluddersfield) way?" I had to admit the correctness of the y^uess. and I was soon sur- 170 A TRIP TO AMERICA. rounded by a luimbor of ** \'ork,sliirc 'In kcs," who jjrceted me cordially and plied me with no end of questions about the Old Country, and in conversation said that with regard to the woollen manufacture in ICn^lancI it was a louj^ way ahead of the States. I saw inside two of the mills and watched the prepara- tory processes of scribblinj^, etc., and from a practical knowled^^e of the business, and takinj,'' these works as a fair sample of the American factories, as I belie\ e they were, I came to the conclusion that the reason why the American manufacture does not come up tt> the standard of excellence in foreij^n woollen y^oods is owinj^ to inferiority of desijjns, of colour combination, and inferior factory work. I also learnt whilst here that one drawback to the satis- factory progress of the woollen manufacture in the States is that many of the largest concerns are in the hands of companies, with managinj^ directors who have little or no technical knowledjje of the business. As a natural consequence of this condition of thinjjs, little is doiie to improve the make, quality, or appearance of their goods. If these find a sale at a profit they are content to go on without effort to improve, having no art principle in the manu- facture. This is due largely to the want of good technical schools in w hich the mechanical art of manufacturing should be taught. This view of the present condition of the woollen manufacture in America was confirmed by many artisans, as well as by members of wholesale clothing firms, with whom I had conversations in different parts of the country. A well-known importer, the representative of several of the largest woollen mills of Kurope, writing to the papers whilst I was in the country, said that America could and would gain a far greater advantage from the establishment and maintenance of schools for technical education and training than from her exorbitant tariff laws. "Of the value of this technical training in the productive industries of the country there is as yet only the dawning of a perception ; bivt the present conditions o( trade are beginning to impress manufacturers with reasonable ideas on the question. In some of the productive arts, notably in silverware, carpets, wall paper, and machinery, this principle of beauty in design and finish has been long and profitably recognized as the most valuable of all the principles of production. Manufacturers in these lines have found that consumers are willing topay larger profits to them for goods in which the principles of beauty have been emphasized than for the same quality of materials made up in inartistic designs. The same thing is true of the fabric goods industries, but notwitlistanding their vast import- ance, exceeding that of all the lines I have specified, there is less originality and artistic skill in designing, and less perfection in technical work than in almost any other line of industry. The reason is obvious. We have until very recently had no good schools of IMIILAOELPHIA AND OERMANTOWN. t7i ;rs are closi},^ii, and have as yet no loclinical .scIuh>I.s in which ihe main principles oi' mechanical art in manufacture is lauj^^ht. Tho mills were originally started in a small, crude way, and have been added to and extended from time to time as business has j^rown. Most o\' them were incorporated as soon as they were bij^ enouj^h to bear a corporate name, and were placed under corporate direction. Their superintendents arc usually the only men about them who understand the technical work oi' manufacturinj^- goods, but they are not skilled manufacturers, knowing and appreciating the value of design. The foreign manufacturer is, ninety-nine times in a hundred, the proprietor by descent from a father or other relative, and his mill is owned and operated as a lirm o( individual property, and is not ii'corporated. His early education is directed witli special reference to his futurv^ employment. If he takes a college or university course it is only the better to prepare him for the work of his life. He is given the advantage of technical training in his business in some one of the numerous first-class technical schools with wiiicli ICurope abounds, and after that is put to work in the mill in the lowest operative capacity and is compelled to learn every branch and detail of the business from the bottom to the top. During all this preparatory period he is impressed upon e\ery opportunity with the necessity of catering to the art, sense, and taste of the consumers oi' his wares." I called upon Thomas MacKellar, Ivsq., in his beautiful home on Penn Street, and found that he was seriously ill with lu ii>'il>f>i\ and was not expected to recover. This was a great disappointment to me, for Mr. MacKellar had shown me many kindnesses, and 1 would have been pleased to have the satisfaction of thanking him in person. Mr. MacKellar is a poet of no mean order, his Rhymes ativccn TimcSy and religious verse, are read with pleasure by his many admirers in both hemispheres. I am pleased to add that he has been spared to his family and friends. In the evening we went, on the invitation of Augustin Daly, Esq., to the Arch Theatre, to witness a performance by the Daly Company of Comedians of "The Last Word," an adaptation of a German play. Before the performance I had an interview with the popular manager, who had at various times favoured me with copies of his works, and invited me to call upon him in /vmerica. He received me most cordially, and in the course of conversation expressed the greatest satisfaction with his receptions in England on the three occasions on which he had visited the Old Country with his talented company. His opinion was that the I'^nglish were more of a theatre-loving people than the Americans, though the latter were good supporters of the stage. He was proud of his company, with whom he was now getting to be very old friends, some of them having been with him since 1868, and Miss Ada Rehan had been leading lady for ten years. T ^1 '' I 17a A IKII' TO A.MliUleA. Mr. Daly was born in 183H, and received most of his education in evening classes in New York, after which he hankered after a literary iile, and before he was twenty-two he had written live plays and Hone much journalistic work. luentually he became a theat- rical manager, and rented various theatres in New \'ork, until in i87<) he took the leadinj^ theatre in that city, which temple of the drama has since that time borne his name, lie has taken his company all over the States and a i^reat part of ICurope, and is at the time of my writint;- this, at the Lyceum, in I.ondon, this bein^ his foin"th \isit to the Old Country. Durini^ his present visit to ICn^land, Mr. and Mrs. Daly and Miss Kehan were the j^-uests of Lord Tennyson, at Aldworth, when the veteran poet read to them a new comedy which he had just completed — the first work which he has desijji'ned expressly for sta^e representation. It is to have its initial production at Daly's New York theatre next winter, and it will not be published until after it is acted. Mr. Daly gave me a pressing invitation to stay with him at his home near New York before my return to England, but this I was unable to (.\o. May Eighth. — Went by train to Media, fourteen miles from Philadelphia, to visit some Yorkshire friends. This town is one of the prettiest I have met with so far in my travels. It is situated amidst mountain scenery on a small scale, while its high and healthy location, its pure air, and wild roads near wooded streams, make it a favourite summer resort for the deni^iens of the great city. Nowhere else, 1 should imagine, can a small town of four thousand inhabitants be found which possesses greater advantages than belong to this highly favoured spot. Thirty trains pass each way daily between town and city. It has a spacious Court House, con- taining the olTices of the Criminal Court, the Recorder of Deeds, the Sheriff, the County Treasurer, and Superintendents of County Common Schools. It has a prison, two National Banks, gas and electricity, and water in abundance. It has further, stringent clauses in its Charter, which provide " That it shall not be lawful for any person or persons to vend or sell vinous, spirituous, or other intoxicating liquors within the limits of said borough, except for medicinal purposes or for use in the arts ; and it shall not be lawful for the Court of Quarter Sessions to grant any license or licenses therefor to any inn or tavern within said borough. If any person or persons shall, within said borough, vend or sell, or caused to be vended or sold, any vinous, spirituous, or other intoxicating liquors to any person (except as provided in this liection), such person or persons so vending or selling shall be liable to indictment, and on conviction thereof shall forfe't and pay for such offence a sum not less than twenty nor more than one hundred dollars, at the discre- tion of the Court; Provided^ that it may be lawful for the Court of Quarter Sessions of said county to license inns or taverns in said borough, without permission to vend or sell intoxicating drinks : piin.AnF.i.rniA anp germantown. >73 And provided^ Such license may be j^rantcil wilhinit the piibhcatioii of any previous notice, as is required for other taverns." In addition to the above named con\eniences, it has eij,Hit phices of worship, Institute of Science, Charter I louse, an insurance company, several public halls, and other buildings, all substantial structures adapted to use rather than ornament. It has public and private schools of j^^reat excellence, and takinj^ it altOi,a>ther, it is a model town oi which any coimtry mii^ht well be pnnul. That it is appreciated, is shown by the lar^e number k-^\. line \ ilia residences scattered over its elm- shaded area. I spent a very pleasant day \»ith these new-found friends, who dro\e me seven miles to West Chester, another flourishin}^ town in this beautiful Delaware country, from whence I returned to I'hiladelphia in the exeninj;-. May Xinth. — \'isited in the forenoon the offices of the Readinjjf and Pennsylvania Railways, in Fourth Street, two enormous build- inj^s, one of brown-stone, the other o'i {granite. The presidents of these railways are said to i^^overn more men, control more active capital, and wield more real power than any other ollicials in the country. I made a call upon Captain (Ireen, o\\\i. of the vice- presidents of the Penn. Railway Co., and was received with j^reat kindness, and obtained from him much information respeclintj the company. The Pennsylvania line traverses twelve of the i\merican States, and has upwards of 7,500 miles of railway, and employs no fewer than 70,000 persons. It has a share capital of ^22,000.000, largely held by Mnijlish investors, and its annual traflic receipts reach the sum of ^24,000,000. At Altoona the company build their locomotives in shops covering 42 acres, whilst the carriage- building shops in the same town cover 76 acres. The men employed in these works are well cared for and well paid, and I was told that most of them own their houses, which 1 saw afterwards were comfortable dwellings, and it is the laudable ambition of the head of each family in Altoona to be his own landlord. The olhces in Fourth Street swarm with ofllcials and clerks, oi whom there are several hundreds, and yet everything appeared to be done with the greatest order and regularity. I also visited the Philadelphia Library, the Cathedral, and the world-famous Baldwin Locomotive Works, which occupy over nine acres of ground, employ three thousand men, and ha\c a present capacity equal to twelve locomotives a week. After lunch I went by the ferry boat to Camden, New Jersey, to pay a visit to the veteran poet, Walt Whitman, whose Ia'uvcs of Grass I had tried to read and understand some tweiit}- or more years ago with only indilTerent success, but in whose writings since that time I have met with much to admire. I found witlunit any dilhculty, the poet's home in Mickle Street, a small cottage {^i the most modest type. The poet was in his own room on the second 174 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I story, a comfortable apartment about six yards square. The furniture is of the "antik" style, scarcely anything of modern make beinj^ in the room. There was a stove in which he keeps a g'ood wood fire when necessary, a bed of firm construction, plain and old, three or four capacious chairs, and several heavy boxes in which he stores his own works. Around him is a litter of books, letteis, papers, maj^azines, memorandum slips, all in the i^reatest confusion. Here he sits, and when writing;", does it on his knee, a tablet being his constant companion. Friends see to it that his table is never without flowers. As he is uriable to walk about without assistance, he has abandoned any attempt at order and neatness. ■^ ; <^iW'." »*J^' '_'*»■'■ ' The poet was in very feeble health, and could not converse at any length, and much of the time I spent in the house was c .1 I \\ alt Whitm.in's Home, Mickle Sirett, Cannlen. m one of the lower rooms with Dr. Bucke, his confidential friend and medical adviser. Whitman is a large man, as can be seen even when he is sitting ; standing six feet, broad of build, symmetrical, and his head and face give an idea of great power and fortitude. " His voice, full of music, charms car and heart. He has an exceedingly hirge ear, set at an unusual line. His hand is the hand of labourer and scribe, large in bone and sinew, and shaped for liberal ends. It is almost superfluous to add that 'the ^ood gray pv-ot ' is no misnomer; the silvered hair and beard, the customary suit ^^i. gray, and the wide brimmed soft gray felt hat, combining to preserve the integrity of the term," PHILADELPHIA AND GERMANTOWN. 175 \\ iclviser. he is us head s voice, y I'dv^c abourei liberal y poet \ • sviit of ling to Dr. Bucke informed me that the poet has a pfreat fondness for children, though his great figure and long shaggy beard are obstacles to immediate intimacy, but once children know him they never fear him again. An interesting sketch of his life has appeared in Great Thoiig/ifs, from which the following is taken : — "On the 31st May, 1819, was born in the family of Walter Whitman, a farmer living on his farm at West Hills, L o n g I s - land, in the state of New Y'ork, a boy to whom the name of Walt was given. Until he reached the age of eleven he d i V i d e d his time between gathering the little knowledge that was to be obtained within the walls of a diminutive school - house, and ra mbling ali>ne t h o u ir aiKl ht. W.Tlt Whitman. fulb o\er the fields and hills on his father's farm, unconsciously drinking in experiences that were afterwards to be of so much worth to others as well .IS to himself. But when the school-davs were over, and ! i ' I ? 176 A TRIP TO AMERICA. V the necessities of poverty compelled him, youngf as he was, to find work, he went at the age of twelve to the office of a lawyer, which he soon exchang'ed for the surgery of a doctor. Two years later he stepped into the composing room of a printer, vJiere, as ever, he kept open eyes, ears, and mind, to glean and save all that was worth the trouble. In 1836, when ho was seventeen, he acted as teacher in the country schools of his native islanc , living meanwhile at home, delighting in the pictures and music of nature. Often he walked to the summit of Jayne's Hill, a mile or two distant, whence over the woods and fields he could catch a far glimpse eastward of the sunlight on the rolling Atlantic ; whilst westward he could see close at hand the salt marshes, the rabbit warrens, the surf-rollers dashing on the sand, and turther away the purple outline o\' the coast of the American mainland. In this freedom of his spirit he imbibed a deep sense of the Infinite, oi' the Power that rules the universe. Manv times he started out in the early summer morning with a hunch of bread, a towel, and a book, and walked far along the shore, reading, swimming, musing, just as the mood swayed him, becoming thoroughly saturated with the love o( nature, and of the beauties of God's earth; and nc\er returning homewards until the twilight sank over the world, when lie trod the fields in ' the huge and thoughtful night ;' The niglil in silence under many a star, The ocean shore, and the husky whispering wave whose voice I know, bearing him company till he raised the latch of his father's door." This pleasant lite came to an end in 1S40, when he left for New \'ork, where for five winters he worked at the compositor's case. Serious work called him, in 1846, to Brooklyn, where he became editor of the /iV/.!,'A', afterwards, in 1848, exchanging that position for one on the stafi" of the A\"iv Orlains Crescent. On his return to Brooklyn in 1850, b.e joined the Freeman^ which he shortly afterwards left to commence operations in wooden house building. At this he continued until 1854, when he began the great work of his life — the composition of his poems. After an interval of hard work, he issued in 1855 a little book, nothing, in fact, more than a pamphlet, bearing the title. Leaves of Grass. This he, with his own hands, set up in type and printed. No notice was taken of the work, which eventually filtered down lower and lower into that cemetery of literary aspiration, the out- door box oi the second-hand bookseller. Nothing daunted by this want of reception. Whitman in 1856 printed a second and enlarged edition. I^nerson, pleased with the work, called on the author, who, after an afternoon's conversa- tion with the philosopher, became more firmly convinced than ever of the importance of the truths he felt capable of delivering. Carlyle, having received .1 copy from I'^merson, accompanied by a >vas, to lawyer, Two printer, An and le was » native 'es and !'s Hill, c could tlantic ; les, the further nd. In inite, ol' \ out in , and a nusin^, cd with d never J, when know, ; door." left for ositor's lere he ig that On his shortly iilding-. :ork of 2 book, 'avcs of irinted. down le out- 1856 .1 with nersa- in ever orini^'. a PHILADELPHIA AND GERMANTOWN. '77 d bv warning as to its strangeness, intimated in his characteristic manner that the writer of the book was mad or divine. Whitman, thus encouraged, printed a further enlarged edition in i860, and was considering the form which he should give to the work on its next appearance, when " the war" broke out. Cast- ing aside all thought of aught else, he started for the front. Not for him was the fighting. His share of the work was the quieter but more truly heroic and glorious task of tending the wounded, dying, and dead ; this he performed till the wild struggle ended in 1864. The experiences he passed through, the sacrifices he made, and the Christ-like heroism he displayed are to be found noted in the simplest and least ostentatious manner in the earlier paragraphs of *' Specimen Days," and in that portion of his poems headed *' Drum Taps." From 1865 to 1870 he was employed in the Government offices at Washington, but on the suggestion of one of the secretaries, he was dismissed the service, on the ground that his writings were not conducive to order as administered by the Government- a groundless accusation. His spirit, however, was not to be broken by any ingratitude of this description. He felt that /le was doing right, and, upborne by this feeling, he continued to press forward his work, and pro- duced a fifth edition in 1871, to which he was constantly adding until 1873, when a disease, the seeds of which had been sown in him ten years before beside the beds and litters of hundreds of shattered men, came to its maturity. Hospital malaria gripped him, and after a long wrestle left him partially, but permanently, paralysed. To add to his burden of suffering, his mother, whom he loved almost as a wife, died suddenly while he was yet weak. The greatness of his grief, however, did not overwhelm him ; his love for the dead, large as it was, did not overcome his love and duty to the living ; and after a poem to his mother's memory, he wrote on as before, but more majestically and calmly : As at thy portals also, death, Kntering thy sovereign, dim, illimitable grounds, To memories of my mother, to the divine blending, maternity, To her, buried and gone, yet buried not, gone not from me, (I see again the calm benii^nant face, fresh and beautiful still, I sit by the form in the C(jOin, I kiss and kiss a)nvulsively again the sweet old lips, the cheeks, the close 1 eyes in '^e cuffm :) To her, the ideal woman, practical, spiritual, of all of earth, life, love, to me the best. I grave a monumental line, before I go, amid these songs. And set a tombstone here. In 1876 Whitman published the centennial edition of Leaves fl/(7/7/.v.v, followed in 1881 by another edition. The years 1882-3 saw the production of the eighth edition of the p >et's magnum opusy N 178 A TRIP TO AMERICA together with a book of prose, Specimen Days and Colled^ which consists of jottings from his diaries and note-books, of scenes and incidents of the American War and of his own life, together with his essay, Democratic Vistas. He still writes at intervals, which grow larger and larger, and only as lately as the wane of the year 1889 he issued a few more poems and prose sketches, collected under the pathetic title, Nox^cmber />oaghs. May Tenth. — Spent the forenoon in Fairmount Park, which includes 3,000 acres, and its wood and water views, and its natural formations of hill and dale give it unrivalled advantages in beauti- ful natural scenery. We entered the grounds by P'airmount Hill, passing a noble bronze statue of dear " Old Abe," with surround- ing fountains and flower gardens. We had a look at the orna- mental boat-houses on the river bank, and then climbing the hill, a hundred feet above the river, we came upon a glorious landscape. The calm and peaceful river was at our feet, and as we trace its course up stream, we see it curving towards the left, with green hills on either hand, richly clotheJ in verdure. This is a lovely bit of wood and water scenery which we are loth to leave, but descend- ing the hill, we cross the stream and mount the opposite bank, and reach Chamonix— not, however, rivalling its namesake. We went on to George's Hill, on the western limits of the park, and here were abundance of flower beds and shrubs, and a broad space laid out with the roads, statues, and ornaments of the park. Here also is the ** Memorial Building," which was the '* Art Gallery " of the Exhibition in 1876. In the park, and near to Belmont, is the little stone cottage, with overhanging roof, where tradition says that Tom Moore lived when in Philadelphia, in 1804. His ballad beginning — I knew by the smoke that so gracefully curled Above the green elms that a cottage was near, And I said " If there's peace to be had in this world, A heart that was humble might hope for it here." is said to have been written at and about this cottage. The view across the river from this cottage is of the tombs in Laurel Hill Cemetery, of 200 acres, which is one of the most beautiful burial- places in the country. We spent the afternoon and evening at the home of an old Yorkshire friend, who, leaving his native county a few years ago, has already made for himself a name in the musical world of Pennsylvania. Chapter VII. BALTIMORK AND VVASHIXGTOX. d of y^» \ ' •'^^Nj ''-'**p '/ 3 ms: j^AV Eleventh. — Left Philadelphia for Baltimore and * VVashiiij^ton by the Pennsylvania route, which follows .>v ' ■ .T- ■ A ^^^^ banks of the Delaware river; it afterward ■''! J^*^^^"* crosses the Schuylkill, and then enters a rej,'"ion of Cvy market gardens, which extends fur many miles. We cross ^*^ many streams which flow into the Delaxvare. and have upon if their banks numerous disused mills, with their ancient ^ water-wheels covered with weeds and slime. We soon come to the neighbourhood of the earliest settlement upon this river, colonised by Swedes long before Penn made his appearance. The site was then known as Upland ; now it has upon it the flourishing city of Chester, a busy manufa'^turing place, at one time a centre of the iron shin-building industry. This was carried on for a long time by one, ^ohn Roach, an liishman, who, when a boy, left " Ould Oireland," penniless and friendless, and by his industry and carefulness, American "hustling" and Irish deter- mination, became the most noted ship-builder of his time ; but, with an experience sadly too common, he met with enemies and misfortune, and his troubles finally brought him, an ill-used man, to a premature end. Fifteen miles from the '• Quaker Citv " our tram enters the "Diamond State" of little Delaware, tlien crosses Brandywine Creek, a picturesque stream, and enters the Chester valley, where prolific dairy farms and good butter are to be met with in abundance. Delaware is an insignificant State as regards size, being the smallest in the Union, } et is reckoned amongst the most powerful because it is always represented in Congress by the most eminent statesmen. Wilmington, an important city in the State, has 65,000 inhabitants, engaged in manufactures of various kinds. Within the town and on the railway side we saw the little ancient Swedish church, with its graveyard crowded with time-worn memorials. i8o A TRIP TO AMERICA. The first Swedish immigrants landed in 1638, and made their settlement in the valley of the Delaware. On leaving Wilmington station we enter upon an uninteresting district, with a few villages scattered here and there, until we cross from Delaware into Maryland, and sixty miles from Philadelphia reach the Susquehanna river. The Chesapeake Hay is the greatest inlet in the Atlantic coast of the States, and the largest ships can make their way to the mouth of the Susquehanna, which is its chief tributary, although several other important streams How into it. The sportsman can have a " good time " here, for its oysters, fish, and game have a wide celebrity. Beyond this point the flat country, varied only by the arms of the bay, shallow and slow, is void of interest, and it is a relief when the line reaches Baltimore and turns westward in order to pass round and under the city. We ^o through several tunnels, which were made at a cost of a million pounds sterling ; one of these tunnels being close upon a mile and a half in length. We enter the " Monumental City," as it is called, by North Charles Street, and from the station we had a full view of the Johns Hopkins Hospital, a noble charity, located in fine and substantial buildings. We were reminded when looking out upon Chesapeake Bay that it was the scene of an event which possesses much historical interest, redounding as it does to the prowess of the English nation. I had been reminded on two or three occasions, in a jocular manner, of events which happened during the war of Independence, and which told of defeat and disaster to the British, or was derogatory to the character of Englishmen, whose bravery and courage were said to have been marred by acts of cruelty and dishonour. I had read beforehand also that American history, as taught in the public schools of the States, encouraged this feeling against the Old Country, and I felt anxious to know how much truth there was in the statement ; but I was pleased to find no confirmation of it, and everywhere in my travels I met with expressions of the great- est respect and admiration for the mother country ; and if in pleasantry I was told now and again that we were growing effete and worn out, I could pass over the remark when remembering that it came from a citizen of a country whose people have indeed much to be proud of. When I thought of their gallant and successful struggle for independence, their bravery in the great C'ivil War, their inventive genius, proots of which are on every hand, the marvellous growth of their country in population, wealth, industry, education, and power, I felt that 1 could excuse the Americiin indulging in a little " high fulutin','' ^-'ven at the expense of my own land. It was only necessary to remind them that for much of this progress they wore indebted to British pluck and energy, which is e\erywhere apparent to-day in the great cities as well as in the Far W«"st, HALTIMORE AND WASHINGTON. i8f One cheering- tliouj,dU stood connected with this part ol' the States, namely, that whereas Dehiware and Maryhmd were at one time shive-holdipg- States, now the injustice of man holdinj^ property in man had been entirely swept away from this fair portion of God's creation. Baltimore is ninety-six miles from Philadelphia, is the chief city of Maryland, and the first port of Chesapeake Bay. It is the seventh city in population of the United States, having- 434,339 inhabitants. From the harbour long and narrow docks extend up into the city, and the highway along these docks has become historic ground from the circumstance that it was the scene of the lirst bloodshed of the American Civil War. The Northern troops on their way to Washington were marching through Baltimore, from one railway station to the other, on April iQth, 1861, when a number of the inhabitants, who sympathised with the South, attacked them in Pratt Street. Kleven men were killed and twenty-six wounded, and the Government were compelled to adopt severe measures to maintain authority in the city. Baltimore is a picturesque city, and Anthony Trollope said that he should prefer it to any other city as a place of residence, except Boston, which he considered the most desirable in the States as a residence for Englishmen. I do not agree with the celebrated novelist, as I saw many cities far preferable. The city is laid out on the rectangular plan, common to nearly all American cities ; has streets of great width, and the residential portion is occupied by elegant houses, which represent to the casual observer much wealth and home comfort. We had not time to visit the many objects of interest which the city contains, notably, the Exchange, Maryland Institute, Pea- body Institute, the churches, and the numerous literary and charitable institutions. Xor could we obtain a look at all the beautiful monuments which adorn the place, and from which it derives the name of the ''Monumental City." One of these memorials is erected to Washington ; a Doric shaft of white marble, 160 feet in height, with his statue on the summit. It is a handsome monument, on a broad avenue at the top of a hill, with a terraced walk 'leading up to it, a fountain in front, and surrounded by lawns and flower gardens. We saw also the "Battle Monument": a marble shaft, 53 feet high, which was raised to the memory of the brave men of the city who fell during the British Invasion of 1814. This monument can gi\e no pleasure to a right-minded iMiglish- man, for it comtnemorates a warfare against the States which was not called for, and, indeed, was a wanton and annoying attempt to destroy a national edifice, which hitherto had been respected in contests between civilized nations. It is said to have " revived and perpetuated in America the bitter war spirit caused by the Revolution, which was beginning to fade away." l82 A TKll' TO AMERICA. We saw the Cily Hall, which is here, as it is j^enerally in the cities of the Republic, the finest buiklinj;' in the place. It is a marble structure, covering an entire block, and erected at a cost of ^400,000. From its dome, which rises 200 feet, there is a fme view over the city and harbour. We should have enjoyed a visit to the Park if time had permitted. This is a pleasure-ground of 600 acres, left much in its natural condition, not havinji^ needed lavish adornment at the hands of the landscape j^ardener. After lunch we completed our journey to Washiny^ton. a distance of fortv miles, and lonjjf before we reached that citv we could see the ma^fnificent Capitol ; a pleasing and prominent object in the landscape. In Philadelphia we had seen much of the negro element, 150,000 of those happy-looking, coloured Southerners being resident in the "City of Brotherly Love," but when we got into the railway station at Washington we were surrounded by ebony porters and hackmen, vociferating most loudly and persis- tently. Sambo has a " high old time " of it in this city, for he is almost ubiquitous, being employed in many capacities, and doing most of the work and a lion's share of the talk. The railway station is an ornamental structure of large dimensions, and is interesting as being the place where President (iirfield was shot by Guiteau. The President had just entered the waiting-room, i.o pass through to the train, when the assassin, who ha 1 followed him closely, Hrcd his revolver. We saw the small star which is in the floor and marks the exact spot where Garfield fell ; and also the tablet on the wall, which records the crime and its date, July 2nd, 1881. From the station, a few steps brought us to Pennsylvania Avenue, the main street of the city, 100 feet in width, and a mile in length in a perfectly straight line, with a noble building at each end, closing a vista of much beauty. The road is perfectly smooth, and on either side are planted rows of trees, whose shade was most acceptable in the burning heat of the mid-day sun. There are two lines of tram roads in the centre, and wide carriage drives on either side, and nowhere else in the States did I see more cleanly-kept or better formed roads than in Washington. This avenue is the triumphal parade ground of the new President after his inaugura- tion, when he is escorted from the Capitol, where he has taken the oath, to the Executive Mansion, known as the White House. Thousands of politicians have doubtless walked along this magnifi- cent road, fired with the ambition that some day they would ^o from their place in the Sen.-ite to the " White House " at the other end of the avenue. Like the French soldier, who is said to carry the /w/on of a Marshal in his knapsack, so in America every boy can indulge the hope that sometime he may become the President, the ofiice being open to all men born within the States. It is no doubt true that "many a prominent man sits in Congress to-day, nALTIMORE A\D WASHINGTON'. '«:> who, as the Americans say, has ' the Presidential bee in his bonnet,' and lonjjfs for the time when his party may find it necessary to call him to the highest post." We stayed at the Hotel Fredonia, a comfortable and well- appointed place, in the residential quarter, and not far from the Ciovernment oF.ces. In the evenin*^ we attended a " social " held in the hotel, at which about fifty of the visitors were esent. A proj^ramme, consistinj^ of music and recitations, wasgo.ie through, several professionals being engaged to assist the amateurs. May Twklfth. — This morning, soon after leaving our hotel, we were mounting the flight of broad steps of white marble which lead to the Capitol. "hese steps are broken in their continuity by handsome terraces, adorned with shrubs, statuary, and fountains. On looking back, after reaching the upper terrace, we were not surprised that Washington should have fixed upon this as the site of the Capitol of this mighty Republic. We had lovely views in every direction, for, immediately below us, on our left, were the charming Botanical Gardens ; right in front, the magnificent Penn- sylvania avenue, which has the Capitol for one terminus, and the White House for the other, whilst right and left we could easily distinguish, with the aid of a plan of the city, the most important public buildings, notably the Post Ofiice, the War and Navy Offices, the Patent Office, the City Hall, the Court House, the Treasury, and away at some little distance, the Washington Monument, 555 feet in height. Still further away was the city of Cieorgetown, and. on the opposite side of the Potomac river, the heights of Arlington, crowned by the Soldiers' Home, and the Cemetery in which are interred many thousands of the Northern and Southern soldiers who fell during the War of Secession. The Capitol itself, to which we now turned our attention, has been erected at a cost of three millions sterling. With the excep- tion of the City Hall in Philadelphia, it is the largest edifice in the States, covering nearly four acres. It has a frontage to the west of 750 feet, with a depth of 324 feet, and is about 80 feet above the level of the city, while its large and beautiful dome rears its lofty lantern and statue of Freedom to the height of 400 feet. I was not surprised to hear that the Washingtonians, as well as Americans generally, are proud of this grand Republican palace, which is indeed a noble landmark, visible from almost every part of the city, and from a long distance beyond the city limits, and always to be looked upon with pleasure, for its white marble gleams most grandly in the sunlight. We ascended by a staircase of 290 steps to the Dome, the view from which is pronounced by all travellers to be one of the grandest in the world, and certainly we were amply repaid for our toilsome ascent, by the extensive view obtained of the city and its surroundings. On descending into the Rotunda, I walked outside Ill'i-lli'.l ■•■«'''f:rllf '!■.•■:■ ,'nt and double iron ^ates. 0\er the entrance is a marble slab with the inscription " Within this enclosure rest the remains of Cleneral (leor^c Washiniji-ton." The interior of the vault is about three yards square, and the two larj^^e stone coflins within it can be plainly seen. The one on the rij.^ht contains Washini^^ton, and that on the left his widow, Martha. Another vault in the rear contains the remains of nimierous relatives, and in front of the tomb are several marble monuments recording their names and dates of their death. There is no monument to the ^'reat General, and his collin bears only his coat of arms and the sinj^le word, " W'ashinjjfton. " On leavinjjf this most interestinjjf spot we \isiled the orij^inal tomb where his remains were laid for thirty years after his death. It was to this spot that Lafayette came in 1H24, attended by a military ^uard, that he mi^ht pay homaj^'c to the ashes of his dead friend. Our steps were now directed to the mansion, which occupies a commandinj.i;' position, havinjj^ a line view ol' the river and the Mary- land shore beyond. The house is a wooden one, two stories in heij^ht, "as plain as a pike-stalT," as a \'orkshireman v.ould say. It is thirty yards lont;- and ten yards wide ; contains ei^Hiteen rooms, and has a lari^'e porch in front supported b}- eiijht larj^e square wooden pillars. At the back oi' the house, on either side, are curved colonnades which lead to the kitchens and the outbuildinj^s beyond. We entered the house at the front and came at once into the entrance hall, of small dimensions. On the wall at the foot oi' the stairs leadini^ to the upper rooms, was the most precious relic the house contains —the key of the Hastille, enclosed in a ^lass casket. This was a j.^ift fron Lafayette to Washinjj^ton, and was sent lo Mount \'ernon soon after the destruction of tlie notorious French prison in 1789. Lafayette^ when sending it, wrote " It is a tribute which I owe, as a son, to my adopted father ; as an aide-de camp, to my general ; as a missionary of liberty, to its patriarch." " Tom I'aine ' was entrusted with the delivery of the key, but sent it by a messeng'er with the messat^e " That the principles of America opened the Bastille is not to be doubted, and therefore the key comes to the right place." I have not space to describe all the Washington relics which fill this building, consisting of portraits, busts, furniture, arms and armour, uniforms, books, autographs, and musical instruments. Of special interest, however, is an old arm-chair which came over in the Mayjloii^cr with the Pilgrims ; the bed and room occupied by the General until his death, and left in the same condition as it was then, and the elaborately carved mantel of Carrara marble in the 1 88 A TRIP TO AMERICA. drawing room, sent to VVashin^'-ton by an iMiglish admirer. It was made in Italy, and shipped thence, but on the way it was seized by pirates who, being told that it was a present to the General, sent it along without ransom and uninjured. Our return to Washington was made in the evening, and the run up the river was full of interest and beauty. This was indeed a day to be remembered with feelings of pleasure, for, one portion of it had been spent in the finest building in the most beautiful and interesting city in the country, and the other portion in a pilgrimage to the Mecca on the banks of the Potomac, which was the home of the greatest man that America has ever known. May Thirteenth. — -This morning I called upon the Hon. Horatio King, to whom I had a letter of introduction from my friend Mr. Carleton. The eminent politician, who was for some time Postmaster-Cieneral under President Buchanan, and has held other important public oflices, received me most cordially, though I had called upon him at un inopportune moment, for he was engaged in penning a poetical birthday epistle to an old friend, Mr. Winthrop, a distinguished citizen of Massachusetts, who, like his correspon- dent, was an octogenarian, i turned into the library, and waited until the complimentary missi\e was despatched, and then in Mr. King's company sallied forth to visit some of the principal sights of the city. During our perambulations I found my com- panion to be a most entertaining cicerone. Though over eighty } ears of age, he was much more nimble and active than his guest, and I gathered that he w'as just as fond of literary and social life as he had been in his younger days. I thought this a favourable opportunity to learn the secret of a long and happy life, so enquired as to his habits of exercise and mode of living. He said, "1 am a great believer in walking, and I think one of the secrets of my goc)d health is in that I have never owned a horse or carriage. I walk until I get tired, and then if I have not reached my destination I take a street car. As to my other rules of life, I don't really know that I have any except those of ordinary temperance. I have always been accustomed to plain living. My father was an inde- pendent farmer in New Kngland, and I was brought up on a farm. We had plenty of potatoes and meat, and good bread, and this was enough for us, without o\er-loading our stomachs We were not very particular as to \\ hat we drank, but only took it in strict moderation. Well, I ha\e kept up my lo\e for plain living all my life, and I suppose my he:dth has been the better for it. I enjoy life now, and I have alwa\ s done so. I keep no regular hours, i^o to dinners and receptions and enjoy them, and I used to smoke tobacco and was \ery fond of it. I found, hc^vever, that it was not good for me, and I ga\e it up." We first went to the WHiite House, the official residence of the American President, and we were at once shown over the principal f^ BALTIMORE AND WASHINGTON. 189 apartments ; though the east room, used for receptions, is the only one to which strangers arc usually admitted. We were accom- panied in our tour of inspection by an old and faithful servant of the Republic, who told me that he was the last person at the White House spoken to by Lincoln and Garfield, before they went away to meet their death at the hands of assassins. We saw the grand reception room of the President, the blue room, where he receives the foreign ambassadors, the red room, used as a reception parlour by the ladies of the President's family., the state dining room, and other elegant apartments. Whilst admiring the elegance and tasteful furnishing and decorations of these rooms, we were equally pleased with the delightful and ex- tensive views we obtained from the windows. "The three first named rooms are directly in front of the main entrance, the windows fronting south and overlooking the beautiful view, begin- ning with the lawn and fountains of the house, past the President's parade and the tall white shaft of the Washington Monument, and stretching away to the waters o( the Potomac. The vista is enclosed bv the hills of Marvland and \'irginia on cither side, the whole forming a picture of entrancing beauty." The White House has two fronts, north and south, but no back door, a circumstance created, it is said, by the departure of an ex-President by the front door to cnuse a newly-made President, to whom he was unfriendly, to enter by the rear, which at once became the principal front, a distinction since maintained. We subsequently visited the Smithsonian Institute, a gift to the United States by an I'^nglish gentleman, who desired to fi)und at Washington "an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." We went to the Government Museum, and were much interested by an inspection of many historical relics, not the least noteworthy being the original " Declaration of Independence,'' preserved in a glass case. This is undoubtedly one of the most important historical documents in the world. I examined with great interest the old worm-eaten printing press, at which l'"ranklin worked when a journeyman printer in London This, too, is enclosed in a large glass case. Another frame contains portions of the hair of all the Presidents of the I'nited States, with their autographs. An early number of the J\'nnsvlv(i)ii(i Cmzctlc is preserved, with this curious advertisement:^" Printeii by P.I'"ranklin, who will give ready money for old rags, and sells glazed, fulling, and bonnet papers." WV" next went to the most splendid o'i all the Washington Departmental buildings, devoted to the Slate, War, and Xavy Departments. M\- companion was anxious that I should meet the heads ctf those establishments, but o\\ encpiiry we found that the Secrelarv for War and the Secretarv of the Na\v were both awav igo A TRIP TO AMERICA. il from the city. President Harrison was also on a tour in the Western States, and Secretary Blaine was ill in New York, so that I was disappointed in missinj^ these g^entlemen. We waited upon Cieneral Casey, chief eng'ineer in the Navy Department, who dcsig-ned and carried out the erection of the Washinj^ton monument, and he received us kindl}-, and in conversation we discussed the probabilities of a war with Italy, which was then talked of, in connection with the lynchinij;' of Italians at New Orleans. The Cieneral rii^hlly thou<^ht that nolhintj serious would a'"ise out of the dispute, but if there should, Italy would come off second best, and lind that she had reckoned without her host, should she attempt any hostile proceeding's by sea. Also that Italy derived too considerable a revenue from American tourists who visited the country, to readily rush into a broil that would cut off, for some lime, this source of income. This Government building" covers a surface of 567 feet by 342 feet, and has cost nearly two millions sterling. The audience chamber of the Secretary of State is a splendid room, and the library rooms are also elaborately fitted and very extensive. The collection of books numbeis 50,000 \olumes. We visittnl the Corcoran Art Gallery, given by Mr. Corcoran to the city. It cost ;£,5;o,ooo, and he gave to it paintings and statuary valued Jit ;i(, 20,000, and an endowment fund of ;i/^ 140,000. \Ve also saw some other interesting places, and then the time had come when we must leave, to return to Philadelphia, but we left the city with great reluctance, to fmd new scenes and fresh experiences. Hut before bidding good-bye to this favourite place of pilgrim- age for all intelligent tourists, I would reiterate my opinion, that no more beautiful city can be found in the States, pleasing alike from the beauty of its streets and parks, the architectural pro- portions of its massive and many public buildings, and the numerous statues and hundreds oi' other objects that interest the traveller. I have now spent a month in this country, and nothing but courtesy has been shown me on every hand, and every man of whom 1 ha\e asked a question has seemed to make it his business to gi\e me all the information possible. And here in Washington I ha\e received nothing but kindness, and in return for this I would leave my testimony that its Capitol surpasses any:hing I have ev^r seen, and I have been in many of the chief cities of the continent of lu.rope. Until I saw this building- I had given the palm to the Palace of Justice in Brussels, but the Capitol at Washington stands out boldly as the grandest piece ol' stone work in the world, at least so far as 1 know. It is r;irely the case that you lind a build- ing in which there is not something to mar the general etl'ect, but 1 saw nothing oi' that kind here. E-^^.4 sylvania Hne, for Chicas^o, a distance of H22 miks. •^t'-'rf2^'^ This train is timed to reach its destination at 10 a.m. (^•j,j'' the followinj^if day, the local time there beiiii,'" one hour t^ • later than New York. It is \vhat is called a *' limited " i\ train, which means, that it consists of four Pullman sleep- '^ ing" cars, a smokini;' car, a dininij car, an oiiservation car, and a composite car, the last named haxhig- a compartment ftir lu^j.^ai:je, a place for the mail bat^s, and sleeping' berths for the conductors. The smokin<^ car has a reading- room for the pas- sengers, library, easy chairs, writing and card tables, and a barber's .shop, for without the latter it seems as if life would be hardly worth living in the States. If the traveller desires to present a respectable appearance when met by his friends at the end of the journey, he can have his hair cut, curled, and sham- pooed for half a dollar (2s.), a shave for a quarter (is.), or a bath, at the rate of forty miles an hour, for 75 cents (3s. ) The cars or carriages in the train are designated " palace cars," and they fully deserve the title, for they are indeed travelling palaces, where one can obtain all the comforts of home. They are homes for the English wanderer, when he \isits Brother Jonathan, and whilst endeavouring to take a survey oi' some portion of iiis relative's extensive dominion. Tlic Illustnitcd Amo'iciui has described this wonderful railway travelling convenience in perfectly true, if somewhat glowing language, as follows : — " It is a Hying hotel in which you fmd \our- self — a hotel with a long series of rooms, all open to you if you want them. Here are your drawing-room and state room, your sleeping car, your dining car, your smoking car, your observation car. The first-named is a spacious apartment handsomely furnished, the upholstery and finishing being rich and tasteful. Note how 192 A TRIP TO AMERICA. handsomely it is carved. See how cunning-ly the exposed surface of the upper berths is inlaid with delicate tracery, or covered with appropriately tinted embossed velvet. Vou will appreciate all this best at nii^ht, when the clusters of electric lii^hts shed mellow radiance over the exquisite workmanship which they illumine. In the dining" car you can feast your eyes upon the rich furnishings — the mahogany tables, the plush chairs — which adorn it. But you can do more than that. \'ou can accomplish the object for which a dining car should be provided ; you can feast your stomach and tickle your palate with \iands cooked and served in the most approved style, and when you have finished, you may cry, with Sydney Smith : ' Kale cannot Innii me ; I have ilincd tod.iy.' " No long-distancL traveller can fail to appreciate the regularity with which nuals are served, and the almost unlimited time allowed for taking them. The serving^ oi"^ meals is not dependent on the arrival at a certain station, nor is the limit for eating them confined to the dyspepsia-breeding period of twenty minutes. There are ten tables, ofi' w hich forty persons can dine with the utmost com- fort. At the farther end of the car is the kitchen. There are four cooks and four ranges, and at the same forward end there is a storage room for provisions, ice chests for wmes, china closets, linen lockers, and the entire outfit of a large restaurant. '• An excellent idea is the observation car. It brings up the rear of the train. Here all are welcome. But if in your masculine grossness you have lingered too long over your meal, you will find all the choice seats taken by the ladies and the children. It is the paradise, indeed, of these, the choicest products of humanity. The latter half of the car is an open drawing-room, with large plate- glass windows, fitted with easy chairs. The rear door, all of glass, and open to the floor, afibrds an unobstructed view oi' the passing scenery. The rear platform is arranged as an open-air observatory, and when the weather allows of your sitting out here, this is the most delightful part of the train. " The smoking car is an important adjunct. It has luxurious chairs, a sofa, a library, and a writing desk. Broad plate-glass windows, slightly bowed, admit a great vokmie of light, and suft'er the occupants to gaze on the passing panorama. Besides the stationary electric lights, there are also movable electric lights, attached b}- insulated wire to the sides of the car. These may be shifted to any position — a great boon to the reader. In front are the gentlemen's bathroom and the barber's saloon. A bulTot, where exhilarating beverages are dispensed, forms an additional charm. The entire train is heated by steam, and at night is lit up by movable and stationary electric lights. " A stenographer and type-writer awaits your commands, to write your commercial or other letters, so that you need not even CHICAGO AND MILWAUKEE. 193 leave your business heliiiid you. The Stock Kxchaiii^e reports are recei\ed three limes daily, and posted on the bulletin boards in the train." Havinj.;^ now furnished my reader with a description of the mode ot travel, I will proceed to say somethinj^ about the journey itself. The excellent construction of the road-beds and the carriai^es, makes the movement of the train ver\- steady. The speed varies from 30 to 50 miles an hour, according- to the grades, for soon after leaving Philadelphia the country is mountainous, rugged, picturesque, and on cither hand are the marks left by terrible struggles between man and nature. But we go steadily along- over river and mountain, amidst the pleasant scenery of the Alleghanies, past mine and mill, foundry and forge, over the farm and through the forest, along level valleys jocund with fruits and llowers, and in and out of village and town. In the evening, we had the novelty of having dinner in the train, when flying onward at the rate of fifty miles an hour as we sat at the flower-decked tables. W'e reached Harrisburg at 3 p.m., and soon afterwards came upon the beautiful valley of the Juanita river. Then the line approaches the great wall of the Kittatinny mountain range, and long ridges of rounded-topped and tree-clad peaks are seen stretch- ing far across country. We cross the Susquehanna river by a bridge two-thirds of a mile long, from which we have magnifi- cent views both up and down the stream. A little beyond this point, our line sweeps around to the westward, and begins the mountain passage and carries it along through 200 miles among and across the various Alleghany ranges. We shortly part company with the Susquehanna, and make friends with the beautiful blue Juanita, which has been the theme of more song and romance than almost any other American river. For one hundred miles this water, with its splendid scener^% flows from the eastern face of the principal Alleghany mountaii •, and gives us a delightful panorama of landscapes and mountain views. The river, in its course amongst these mountain ranges, passes through and opens out much of the geological formation of the district, for the water cuts tiirough a rock stratification six miles in thickness. The oldest and largest town on the Juanita river is Hunting- don. It was the ancient " standing stone," where the Indians for centuries held their grand councils until the pioneer white men made their appearance in 1754. This " Stone " of the Indians was a granite column, about 14 feet high, and six inches square, covered with their hieroglyphics. Late in the afternoon we reach Altoona, the capital I'l" the operating department of the Pennsylvania Railway Company. It has a population of 25,000, all dependent upon the railway for L 194 A TRIP TO AMERICA. a living. This mountain city occupies a prominent position in the commercial world, for it is the location of the larj^est railway manufacturing enterprise in tiie States. One hundred and forty acres of ground are covered with the immense works necessary for turning out all the locomotives, passenger carriages, freight and coal trucks, and the necessary repairs required for its rolling stock by this great corporation. The repairs alone amount to work upon 3,000 carriages per month, and the Company build some 130 new locomotives and 5,000 carriages yearly. They have in constant use 2,700 locomotives and 100,000 passenger and goods conveyances. Some interesting statistics may be gathered here, relating to present-day locomotion, as provided by this leading railway organ- ization. These works are constantly building locomotives weigh- ing 60 tons, and goods wagons that will carry a load of 30 tons. Some of the engines run 100,000 miles a-year, and the average mileage is 70,000 for passenger traffic, and for goods traffic the mileage is 50,000. This railway town is situate 1,160 feet above the level of the sea, and from it the train starts upon a gradient of 90 feet to the mile, to climb to the summit of the Alleghanies. To secure the necessary di.stance to overcome the elevation, the line is carried up one side of the indented valley to its head. Having ascended this, the railway, by a bend crossing each of two small glens by curved em- bankments, is made to double upon itself, and to mount still higher but running out upon the opposite slope of the valley. This splendid piece of engineering is known as the famous Pennsylvania ''Horse Shoe Curve," and more wonderful still is the fact that here is the heaviest grade of the ascent, 97 feet to the mile, and I felt some- what excited as our carriage turned the corner and I could see the latter part of the train over on the other side, and a yawning gulf between. Just beyond this point is a smart signal station, notice- able in this wild region for its picturesqueness - a little Swiss chdlet, with lawns and flowers — a small oasis in this region of rocks and stunted trees on the mountain side. On we go, climbing the southern slope of the indented valley, out upon the edge of the mountain, and rounding this, enter a still higher gorge pierced into the ridge, and here the outlook is of the finest, over the mountain ranges for miles away. Thus we come to the highest point, and vanish into a long tunnel 2,161 feet above the sea, pierced through the ridge 2,400 feet high. We travel along this marvellous roadway until we reach Cresson Springs, a popular summer resort. Superb climate, pure air, and pure w^ater form the trinity of blessings which have made the name of Cresson famous in the land. The summer temperature is not only far lower than that of ordinary high ground, but it possesses a freshness and braciness which seems intensified by the r CHICAGO AXn MILUAl KEE. ^95 reach , pure made eraturc but it by the clearness of the sky and the transluceiicy of the atmosphere. Invijj;-oration is the prime constituent of every bree^'e, and the j^low of health appears responsive to the touch of eery mountain-born zephyr. Our train speeds along through wild gorges, around sweeping curves, over high embankments, and into deep rock excavations, down into the Conemaugh valley, and on to ill-starred Johns- town. To the north-east of Johnstown, about three miles distant, was the largest reservoir in the States ; in the South Fork, forming a lake covering about four square miles. A dam, 700 feet wide and 100 feet high, held the water at a level of 200 feet above Johnstown. After three days of hea\y rain, the last three days of May, 1889, the dam gave way and the work of destiuction began. For a distance of twelve miles round Johnstown the flood swept out every town and village, and destroyed all the railways, telegraphs, houses, and mills. The disaster at Johnstown was aggravated by lire in addition to water ; 10,000 persons lost their lives, of whom 8,000 were drowned or burnt to death in the town. Not a house was left standing ; hundreds of them were turned on their sides. The loss of property amounted to ;^8,ooo,ooo. Beyond the Alleghany mountains we reach the '"Black Country," where coal pits and furnaces abound, and here we come upon that wonderful natural gas-producing region. \'illage after village was passed where this singular product was illuminating the streets and lighting up the houses. During the past seven years it has been made to supersede coals and coke in generating steam, and in the manufacture of iron, steel, and glass. The gas torches we saw in the streets give a good light, and the gas can be kept perfectly imder control as to quantity consumed and distribution, and it is so free from sulphur, etc., that it is now considered as the best and the cheapest fuel. I was told that for dwelling houses it was far preferable to coals, at about half the cost. After leaving Pittsburg we travel along the Ohio River, amid the beautiful scenery of its bordering hills. This river is the largest branch of the Mississippi, and drains an area of over 200,000 miles. During the night we pass Fort Wayne, a leading town, with 40,000 inhabitants, and when I pull up the blind in my berth in the early morning I see that we are speeding along through broad and densely-wooded prairies, and on through the level country, until we reach Chicago, the great lake city, and the greatest railway centre in the country. May Fifteenth. — I was prepared to find Chicago a thriving, bustling city, with a quick-stepping people, and everything on a grand scale, and I was not disappointed in my expectations. No sooner had I left the railway station, and entered into the busy life of the streets, than 1 felt myself to be out of place. It appeared as though mere sight-seers were not wanted ; as if the thoroughfares 196 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I i were already too crowded with those who were intent on winning fortune or fame, to admit of mere loungers or passing tourists to step between th;m and the goal to which they were hastening. I had letters of i.^troduction, however, and these I made speed to deliver, that I mij_ht have the services of someone who was familiar with both place anl people. My steps were ^rst directed to the hospitable home of E. Ryerson, Esq., to vhom I had a letter from Mr. D. G Mitchell (Ik Marvel). I was received with great kindness, and during the limited time that I could stay in the city, received every attention, and was taken to several of the principal sights. What a marvellous history this city of Chicago has already had? When the writer of this was born it had no existence whatever, for it was not till after 1833 that the town was organised. Though not sixty years old it is now, for population and extent, the second city in the States, whilst for '* hustling" and " go-a-headism " it may surely be reckoned as first. An early settler, at the time to which we have referred, paid ten shilling's an acre for 160 acres of Govern- ment land ; to-day that land is valued at six millions sterling. My readers will remember that in 1871 the city was nearly destroyed by fire. My friend, Mr. Ryerson, was at that time living in the city and well remembered the calamity, his parents having lost their home and everything that it contained, and was twice subsequently burnt out of the homes of friends who tiad given them shelter. The people, my friend said, had to fly for their lives, and even then did not always escape, for no fewer than 250 persons perished in the flames. Five square miles of the cit\- were laid in ashes, and the ruins extended in a direct line for seven miles. Twenty-five thousand buildings were destroyed, and nearly 100,000 persons rendered homeless, whilst the loss of property was estimated at the sum of sixty millions sterling. The city at the time of the fire was mainly built of wood ; to-day it is nearly all stone, marble, or iron. As we walked in the streets of the city, 1 was much astonished to see the wholesale demolition which was going on of substantial buildings, comparatively new, that were being removed, 1 was told, to make way for larger erections, varying from ten to twenty stories in height. The *' big fire," it seems, marked an era in the history of Chicago, which local admirers are wont to refer to fondly, as one in which the city rose Phoenix-like from its ashes. If the incinera- tive bird is taken as the incarnation of rejuvenated beauty, then it is difficult to say what sort of a bird Chicago will be at the time of the Exposition, two years hence. It can scarcely be said that these buildings which are now being demolished, have much of a history, because they have all been erected since the fire. Yet two decades in a metropolis like this form a remarkable period. I was informed that all the structures CHICAGO AND MILWAUKEE. 197 that are now vanishing^ were marvels of beauty and hi rang-ement in their day, but so fast has been the march of prog^ress, and so radical the revolution in construction, that they have become antiquated as office building's in the brief space of twenty years. I was told repeatedly that this marvellous city of the West is to become not only the largfest city in the States, but in the whole world, and if one may judg^e from the boundless energ^y everywhere apparent, and the gfreat accumulation of wealth, as well as the amazing" development in all directions, it is certainly within the bounds of possibility that some day New York, Paris, and even London, may have to take a " back seat" in competition with this wonderful city. During- my visit I was presented by the publishers (Flinn and Sheppard), with an excellent and exhaustive "history, encyclopaedia, and guide," to Chicag'o. just published, the first ever issued, and which certainly contains facts and fig'ures of a most sensational character. To those who contemplate a visit to the Exposition, in 1893, a more useful companion than this comprehensive and exquisitely illustrated guide, could not be wished for. The volume has the following dedication : — "To the children of Chicago in j^eneral, and to my own little children in particular, who, if the Lord spares them until they shall have attained the allotted span of life, will see this city the g^reatest metropolis on the face of the globe ; this volume is affectionately inscribed by the compiler." The volume opens with a p«an extolling' the " Marvellous City of the West." as follows : — " Not in the Arabian Nights Entertainments, though bathed in all the g-lorious colourings of oriental fancy, is there a tale which surpasses in wonder, the plain, unvarnished history of Chicag-o. It ia one of the wonders of modern times. Her progress amazes mankind. There is not on record an achievement of human intellect, skill, and industry that will bear comparison with the transformation of a dismal swamp, in the midst of a trackless desert, within the span of a human life, into one of the mightiest and grandest cities of the globe." The reader of this volume will gather from it, that instead of being, as is generally supposed, a large, over-grown, uncultivated Western city, Chicago is i great metropolis, whose people have within their reach all the elevating and refining influences which can be found in cities ten times its senior in years. We made our first call upon Captain Burnham, Chief Con- structor of the works in connection with the forthcoming Exposition in 1893. We weie shown the plans and finished drawings of the various buildings which are in course of erection. More than two years ago, a movement was set on foot in the United States for celebrating in a suitable manner, in 1892, the 400th anniversary of the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus, the great navigator having landed on one of the ! I 198 A TRIP TO AMERICA. Bahama Islands, on October 12th, 1492, That celebration is to take the form of a "World's Columbian Hxposition," the site chosen beinj^ Chicajjfo. The selection was made by the United States Conj^ress, and no little difficulty was encountered in settling- the question. There are at least five cities in the United States of metropolitan rank — New York, Chicago, Philadelphia, Boston, and St. Louis — each entitled to the distinction of holdinj^ such an important Exhibition. Satisfactory proof having been furnished that adequate grounds, buildings, and funds had been provided at Chicago, her claim was finally admitted, and the Exhibition is to be held there from May ist, 1H93, to the last Thursday in October. It was found impossible to open the Exhibition in 1892 from want of time, but to commemorate the 400th anniversary a solemn dedication ceremonial is to take place on October 12th, 1892. Chicago itself is a typical American city in age, extent, and growth. Sixty years ago the population of Chicago, according to a Government report, consisted of three families occupying log cabins. At the present day it is the second city of the United States, having a population of 1,250,000, which number entitles it to the rank of seventh among the large cities of the globe. It is growing at a rate of increase about equal to that ot London — 1,000 persons weekly. The three log cabins in existence in 1832 have been multiplied into a city possessing over 2,000 miles of street frontage, a river frontage of nearly 50 miles, and a lake frontage of nearly 20 miles. Condemned half a century ago as an unhealthy swamp, the Chicago of to-day has a fair sanitary record, its rate of mortality averaging 17*49 per 1,000. A little over 50 years ago Chicago was barely deemed of sufficient area to be admitted to the dignity of a city. To-day its municipal limits encompass an area of upwards of 170 square miles. Last year, 1 1,608 new buildings were erected, having a street frontage of over 50 miles, and costing ;^9,464,400. A site has been chosen for the Exhibition, comprising fully 1,000 acres, on the shores of Lake Michigan. Jackson Park, in the southern section of Chicago, has been selected as the site for the main Exhibition ; the Lake Front, Jiear the centre of the city, for part of it ; and the Midway Plaisance and Washington Park, adjoining Jackson Park, as reserves for possible other sections of the Exhibition. The work of erection of the various buildings is now in progress. Ground was broken on January 27th last. A noted feature of the Exhibition is to be a pier projecting into Lake Michigan some 1,500 feet. From the designs submitted for our inspection, and from my acquaintance with many of the previous International Exhibitions in England and on the Continent, I was convinced that the Chicago Exhibition will be on a scale and of a magnificence unrivalled by any previous undertaking of the kind, and it will worthily CHICAGO AND MILWAL'KEF. 199 commemorate the discovery 400 years atifo of the American Continent. We visited Lincoln Park, the first of an extensive series of beautiful parks, which arc connected with each other by boulevards, and these combined stretch completely around, from the shore above to the shore below. The Drexel boulevard, 200 feet wide, is one of the finest of these avenues, having a maj^'^nificent drive on either side of a central walk for pedestrians, the latter windinj^ amonj^-- pretty <,'-ardens, and the whole well-shaded with trees. W^e spent the rest of the day in a j^eneral survey of the city, which, however, did not please me very much. Its mammoth building's make the streets appear narrow and crowded, and the building- operations, which were in progress in every principal thoroughfare, interfered very much with the trallic ; and the only impression created in one's mind was that the city w is immensely wealthy, and had an industry phenomenal in its character and extent, l^ven the river, which we crossed several *imes over the swinging bridges, testified to the pressure of trade. There are a great number of these conveniences, as also two tunnels carried under the water. With all these appliances I could not but wonder how it was expected to deal with the additional traftic in 1893 ; for having- neither " underground" nor " elevated" railways, it seems impos- sible that any extra pressure upon the street traffic can be met. Though many of the principal streets are 80 feet wide, they were most uncomfortably crowded. We visited many of the great business structures, which soar skyward ; in many instances eighteen stories above the street and are filled with offices ; where both visitors and customers are whisked aloft to the upper regions by the ever-travelling lifts, or ''elevators." We had not time to visit the "Stock-yards," one of the "lions" of the city, but some idea may be formed of the trade done in that locality from the following- figures : — During" the year 1890, 3,847,300 hogs were killed and packed at Chicago. Messrs. Armour and Co., who are the largest packers in the world, killed last year 1,450,000 pigs, 650,000 cattle, and 350,000 sheep. This firm employ upwards of 6, 000 men. In the evening I left Chicago for the " Cream City," ninety miles distant. The carriages on the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul railway are exceptionally comfortable, and lighted in a novel manner by electricity. In addition to the lights from the roof of the carriage, a light is fixed behind the passenger when he is seated, so that when reading it falls directly upon his paper or book. When the seats are turned into sleeping berths the light is still convenient for reading purposes in bed, and can be turned on or ofT at pleasure. This company have forty-two cars lighted in this manner bv electricitv ; more, it is claimed, than anv other 20O A TRIP TO AMIiRlCA. \ ^{^yM''} '' illlllll' if I. ■■<]■"/ luirr, ir ,.ii, iii:iiK::r'ii;i;,|fc'i{ I |i!:liiiiii.:'iii;v:iv;||ri . i ,|!| \i ■}'■■ i'!'i''fiiii!i r 'f m '< 'I • •y. ii' |! ; '■ '. ,1"!!' ■ ''' '" 'liiiiit)', lit '^i'ii «|,' V,;,„l 'I li'M'lll'jl": ' -?(«:' railway in the world. This railway corpora- tion has 5, coo miles " '' completed a n d thoroug-hly equipped road, and is worked by a staff of courteous and polite officials. The station at Mil- waukee is a hand- some buildini^, 350 feet long- by 62 feet wide, built with red pressed brick, trim- med with red sand- stone and terra-cotta. It has a clock tower 173 feet hig-h. The waiting-rooms are fmished in hardwood, with iine stained glass windows. The cost of the building' was ;^'8o,ooo. II m\ i, o CHICAGO AND MILWAlKEi:. 20 1 It was ten o'clock when 1 reached Milwaukee, and was met at the station by an old and valued correspondent, one of the early settlers of the place, who, lea\ ini; \'orkshirein i84(), made his way to the "Far West ' of that day and pitched his frame house of\ this spot, then but sparsely populated. This house, which he still occu- pies, was put up on a plot of land tar away from what is ni>w the centre of the city, but at the present time the humble homestead is surrounded with handsome residences and important thoroutfli- fares. In my friend's early days, alons^ with two or three compan- ions, they " kept house " together, and one or two head of cattle, and had to watch the latter at niijfhts in turns, to protect them from wild animals. Durinj^ my sojourn in Milwaukee, my friend i>fttimes Miter- tained me with an account of his pioneer experiences, which were very interesting-. Mr. Mortimer still maintains his lo\e for the Old Country in which he first saw the li^ht, and his pleasant home in Milwaukee is enriched with a splendid collection ol' ^'orkshire books, of which he is justly proud; many o\' these treasures having-, on occasions, been obtained at a sacrifice of some of the comforts and conveniences of life. May Sixteenth. — ICarly this morning we set out to visit the more important of the sights of this beautiful city, and made our way first of all to the coast line, and had a splendid view over Lake Michigan. The vast expanse of water spreads o\er an area which to the eye seems boimdless, and in this respect seems more like a sea view than the view over a lake. The colour of the water is bright, and as we walked along the hill, from which we could see the lake and the shore below, the prospect was most pleasing. One of the features of the Lake-shore, or Juneau Park, is a fine statue of Solomon Juneau, who was the founder of the city. In 1820 he set up in business, and built a log-house on the east side of the river. From this time until 1833, Juneau and his family were the only white inhabitants living in ^Iilwaukee. This pioneer's name became known far and wide as a sNiionym for uprightness and honesty in dealings with all men of whatever race, and his influ- ence over his Indian neighbours was unbounded. He ultimately, through his open handedness and generosity, together with his unlimited confidence in his fellow-men, had serious trouble, and died poor, in 1856, among the Indians in the northern part of the State. In our walks about the city we did not find much of interest to the historian or antiquary. It has no ancient buildings ; no ruins of fort or castle ; no time worn cathedrals, or battle fields ; in fact, its history is but the record of the peaceful conquest of a virgin soil. But, for the emigrant it has many natural advantages, which have :o2 A TRIP TO AMERICA. since been added to, by public and prixate enterprise, so that now it is a thriving- and prosperous city, with upwards of 200,000 inhabitants, and so far as I can judge, the homes of this hirge popu- lation will compare favourably witli those of any city I have hitherto seen. I was informed that no city in the Union, in proportion to its population, has so many little homes owned by those who live in them, and a striking feature of these dwellings is that they have no fences separating them from their neighbours, though nearly every house has its flower bed in front A world-wide traveller was asked on his return to Europe, what he had found interesting Solomon Juneau's Log Hut, iSzo. or specially noticeable in Milwaukee ?—" Well," said he, "every man seemed to live in his own home, there was sure to be a pot of flowers in one window, a canary-bird in the next, and a baby's face in every other one." We visited in succession, the Catholic Cathedral, a large and ornate building ; the Court House, where from the dome of the structure we had a magnificent view o\er lake and city; the park in front of the lunise, with its Howers ;uid fountains, a pleasant resting place; the Schlit/ Hotel, a mammoth establishment; the Layton Art Clallery, the munificent gift oi' Mr. Layton, one ol' its earliest settlers and highly respected citizens. We also visited the *' / CHICAGO AND MILWAUKEE. 203 Milwaukee Industrial Exposition building', one of the finest in the country. It occupies an entire block, and is built of yellow and red brick, with carved stone facings. It has in it an art gallery, as well as the usual features of industrial exhibitions. We made calls upon General Hobart, who greatly distinguished himself during the civil war, and upon Mr. Buck, the historian of Milwaukee. On our visit to the Public Library, we were received most courteously by Mr. Linderfelt, the librarian, a scholarly and cordial mannered g'entleman, well fitted for his post, who gave us much information as to the working of the library, etc. The reading room attached to the library is an unusually pleasant retreat, and contains files of the leading European and American journals, and daily papers from all the large cities of the l^nion, and to this room all strangers are made welcome. Court House, Mil\\aukee. The afternoon of this day was spent in a visit to the Pabst Brewery. The brewing of lager beer is the g^reatest industry in the city, and the one which has made her name known in many luiropean cities. The brewery we were now \ isiting is the largest in the world, over 20,000 persons being dependent on it for support. The floor space occupied is over 30 acres in extent. I"'ive hundred persons are constantly engaged in bottling' and packing the bexerage. The sales of bottled beer for the year i8c)o, anunnited to the enormous number of 15,000,000 bottles. To manufacture this quantity of beer it required 420 tons of hops, 1 ,280,000 bushels of malt, 2,000,000 lbs. of rice, and 26,000 tons of coal. We saw 204 A TRIP TO AMERICA. the splendid engines, the immense vats, the ice-producing- machine- ery, which turns out 400 tons of ice per day ; the store rooms, the stables, and after a wearying- round we visited the offices, which are of larg-e extent and elaborately fitted and furnished. May Sevkntekxth.- Attended service at St. Paul's Church, a handsome edifice built of red sandstone from Lake Superior. The wiiidows in this church are especially beautiful. The sermon was a masterly exposition of the Pentecost, and was delivered with much feeling- and animation by the vicar, the Rev. Charles Stanlev Lester. to th ph an mt I . it [pliiiiilllMlwi* Public Library, Milwaukee. In the afternoon we went to Forest Home, the cemeter}-, a beautiful place of rest, and wandered amongst ihe blooming parterres, the leafless graves, fountains, and evergreens, monu- ments and memories. The sands of visitors were in the spacious grounds, and the streets leading to the Home were crowded with people on foot and in conveyances, all bound for the delightful "God's Acre," which presented an appearance of gaiety and pleasure seeking, hardly in keeping with the character of the place anil its surroundings. Mav ICuwiTEEN'rn. — Spent the day in a visit to the Soldiers' Home, and the country around this national asylum. We drove wl of nc Al w CHICAGO AND MILWAUKEE. 20S f* to the Home by way of Grand Avenue, a delig^htful experience, and then on to the limits of the city. Here we fmd lar^e summer pleasure gardens, with well kept lawns and flower-beds, with walks and fountains, furnished with tables and benches, at which refresh- ments are served. \~-i4s^-->- .vf^- .:^: i>M<-b. ■r'i' X a o X u B V Grand Avenue is lined on both its sides by fine mansions, o( which we give in our illustration a good specimen. This is the home of the Hoii. Alexander Mitchell, a gentleman prominently con- nected with the banking interests of the vState. He was born near Aberdeen, in Scotland, in 1817, and went to Milwaukee in 1830, where his mar\ ellous genius as a financier soon made him a leader 2o6 A TRIP TO AMERICA. in the business circles of his new home. His sagacity and enter- prise have been of immense service to the city, and he has been connected with every business venture of importance for the last half-a-century. A mile or two beyond the city's limits and we see the national flag waving at the top of the tower of the " Soldiers' Home," our objective point. On an eminence stands this retreat for the disabled pensioners of their country, a stately building of splendid archi- tecture and magnificent proportions. Passing through a rustic gate, we enter a Park of several hundred acres, with natural hills and dales, a miniature lake, beautiful drives in every direction, and a little cemetery in a retired part of the grounds, containing many well-kept graves, each with a modest marble head-stone, recording the name, age, and date of death of its occupant. 'I'lic Kxpositioii lUiiklings, Milwaiikti'. We entered the " Home," and after writing our names in the visitors' book, were taken in charge by a gentlemanly retired c>flicer, and were most politely conducted through the spacious halls into the dining room, library, etc., and into a few of the rooms of the inmates. The latter were all carpeted, and though devoid of ornamentation were very comfortably furnished and scrupulously clean. We then ascended the tower and had a glorious view of the surrounding country. The ** Home " had over one thousand inmates at the time of our \isit, and in conversation with several Yorkshlremen whom I found amongst the number, I was told that this place is indeed a Home in the fullest sense of the CHICAGO AND MILWAUKEE. ao7 word, everything- in and about it is theirs, for them to enjoy. All who are able follow some liyi'ht employment, but nothing- in the nature of task work, and their appreciation oi' the " Home "' is seen everywhere in the excellent condition of the drives, the never ceasing care bestowed upon the lawns and gardens, and the g^eneral state of perfection in which every part of the grounds is kept. Ail this is the work of the soldiers, who seemed delighted when we expressed our admiration with all we saw. It was an exceedingly pleasant day when we visited the place, and this had attracted a large number of the pensioners as well as many visitors to the locality of the band-stand, where excellent music was being discoursed by the military band, composed of members of the Home. The band plays twice daily, and the audience on each occasion is a most interesting one, many of the veterans wearing uniform, and all seeming happy and contented. Bidding adieu to the Home and our guide, we re-enter our bug-gy to complete our inspection ot the grounds, returning to the city by another route, every turn of which presented new features to admire. It was now nearing- the time when I must prosecute my journey still further west, but before doing this, I would express the pleasure I had in visiting this wonderful city, which is said to be '' one of the richest cities in the Union in proportion to its popu- lation, which is intelligent and enterprising, composed of the better elements of each nationality ; without a monied aristocracy, and without paupers. Containing few palaces and fewer slums and shantie , the homes of her people, rich or poor, are models of cleanliness, good taste, and comfort." A:m Chapter IX. $, r^ MINNEAPOLIS AND ST. PAUL- AY Kic.iiTi'KXTH. - Left Milwaukee in the eveniiiir, hv 1^ the Chicu,t,^o. Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railway, for ■^ Minneapolis. 340 miles distant. This railway has long .'^;\'^v^2^'^ since taken itJ place as one of the great iron roads of (;^'' ' the world. Its r's with events of outbursts of speed in growth, one after another, jf enterprise, acliievement, and advancement in all the characteristics of metropolitan life and progress. There has scarcely ever been a parallel to Minneapolis. She has but one peer, Chicago, and her onward march to supremacy is unchecked as she dist.'inces one after another of the great cities of the United States in the column of population. *'The city of Minneapolis, Minn., has 164,738 inhabitants. Chicago, St. Louis, and Milwaukee are the only cities that surpass it in population in the states of Illinois, Wisconsin, losva, Minne- sota, and Missouri. It is located in the Upper Mississippi Valley, at the point where converg'e sixteen lines of railway, traversing the entire north-western country between Chicago on the east, the British possessions on the north, St. Louis and Kansas City on the south, and the Rocky Mountain ranges on the west. Minneapolis has the most intimate railway connections with all the trunk rail- road systems of the I'nited States and Canada, east and west, and with water communications vid the ii^reat lakes." During my stay in Minneapolis, I was the guest of Mr. and Mrs. M. Ci. Harrison, whose generous hospitality and personal kindness I shall ever remember with pleasure. Alas ! after so short an interval, that death should have been so busy, for, on August 13th, my kind host was called away from his family, and the city of which he was an old and valued official. The following tribute to his work in Minneapolis appeared in tne local journal : *' Mr. Harrison was an old resident of Minneapolis, having lived here nearly 32 years. Born in Bellville, 111., April 22, 1822, he was educated at McKendree College, Lebanon, 111. Accom- panied by two brothers, he came to Minneapolis in 1859. Since then he has been closely connected with <^he city's growth. He was an original stockholder in the Firsi National Bank, of St. Paul, and in the Minnesota Central, now tlic Milwaukee and St. Paul, and the St. Paul and Sioux City railtoads. He was the second Mayor of the city. For many jears he was a member of the School Board, and was also the administrator of the Spencer estate, which became the foundation of the public library. He was first director and treasurer of the Exposition, and when he died was vice- president of the Minneapolis Trust Company, and also President of the Security Bank of Minnesota. Mr. Harrison was an exemplary Christian, and his benevolent work among the churches and in the cause of charity was great." After breakfasting- with mv friends, we drove to the Falls of Minnehaha, about four miles from the city. The cascade is neither broad nor high. A sparkling stream goes meandering through the meadows, until, coming suddenly upon its plunge, it widens its skirts to their fullest extent, and glides over the edge of the smooth and crescent-shaped rock with a grace most beautiful and rare. 212 A TRIP TO AMERICA. i We went to the foot of the Falls, and behind it, where a j^^allery has been formed by the crumbling of the softer second stratum of ^-x.v^> The F.tlls of Minnehaha. rock, and as we pass under to the other side, it is as if an immense sheet of plate-glass intervened. MIN'NKM'OLIS AM) ST. I'Alf 21 We walked in the ravine below, amid those secluded shades where lovers and newly-wedded couples are most at home, and returned to the summit of the hill by the long" wooden stairway. The scenery in the neighbourhood of the Fall is attractive, but had it not been for the magic power of poesy, it is likely that Minnehaha would have had but few visitors. It was a happy circumstance that led young Hiawatha to this soot. " That my Ili.iwalha halted III the land of the Dacotahs ? Wns it not to see the maiden, See the face of Laughing Water I'eeping from behind the curtain ? Hear the rustling of her garments From behind the waving curtain. As ')ne sees the Minnehaha Gleaming, glancing, through the branches ; As one hears the Laughing Water, From behind its screen of branches." On our return to the city we visited three of those gems of inland seas for which this region is famous, where every provision has been made for the enjoyment of the thousands of citizens who arc brought to these lovely lakes by tram and train. There is here plenty of room and plenty of welcome for all who feel the need of rest and recreation, or desire the sport of fishing or hunting. After lunch I visited the High School, a finely equipped educational institution. I was informed, and could readily believe it, that " Minneapolis has a school system, which in amplitude ot equipment, in safeguards for the hygienic welfare of its pupils, and in advancement of method, stands second to none in the United States. She has, notwithstanding her western disadvantages, spent lavishly upon her provision for the education of her rising generation. She has a completely graded set of machinery, from the lowest primary through the grammar, and the High School (with its admirable technical departments) up to the more specialized work of the State University itself. F'rom the schools I went to the Free Libra y, where I was courteously received by Mr. Putnam, the librarian, whoaccompanied me in my inspection of the interior of the building. The structure stands on the south-west corner of Hennepin Avenue and Tenth Street, — one of the broadest avenues and one of the wMest streets in the city. In no other city did I see a library building which was better fitted for its purpose, and every care must have been used to produce an edifice so well in keeping with the object for which it was required. There is abundant space for books, plenty of light, adequate means of ventilation, and ease and economy of supervision. This is a four-story structure of symmetrical proportions, and the rich, brown sandstone with which it is built gives it a noble and dignified appearance. ii 214 A TRir TO AMERICA. There is a museum in the building-, which is well filled with a natural history collection, in solid oak cases. Over the museum is the Art Ciallery, containing the nucleus of a gift collection of paint- ings, also a hundred which are on loan. In the room adjoining the gallery is a collection of ceramics and bric-a-brac, which also is loaned. The I ' " Lakeside " and Cottages. streets, and is one of the cost of the library building was ;^65,ooo, principally raised by taxes, the re- mainder, ;^ 1 2,000, being individual subscriptions. May Twentieth. — Went by early train to St. Paul, a very flourishing and beautiful city, built on a series of terraces, on the left or eastern bank of the great *' Father of Waters," over which it commands magnificent views. It has 133,156 in- habitants, 260 miles of most important commercial centres MINNEAPOLIS AND ST. PALI.. 21 oi' the north-west. The city is well Iniilt, many of its business streets comparini;' favourably with those in the older cities in the eastern States. I visited the Cirand Opera House, a stately building", handsomely fitted, and lii,''hted by electricity. Left St. Paul in the evening' for an all-night ride to Milwaukee, which was reached at seven a.m. May Twenty-First. Went with my Milwaukee friend for an excursion amongst the Wisconsin Lakes. Nineteen miles from the " Cream City " we came to Pewaukce, a most attractive summer resort. *' Lake Pcwaukee — ' Pewaukee-wer-ning^' — as prehistoric sages and the Indians called it — meaning- 'Lake of Shells' — is the eastern link of the famous lakes of Wisconsin's ' Lake Regions.' The scenery of its shores is just charming — ^wooded, pastoral, and rocky. Two renowned mineral springs, whose waters are a panacea for the ailments of people of sedentary habits and too high living, are located here. The lake affords royal sport for the fisherman, and, with game of the field and wood, dainty food for the epicure and delicious morsels for the delicate. It is an extensive body of water, and therein it is a perfect gem. Steam, row, and sail boats, and all the variet\ cf craft usually found on internal seas, are on its surface, and the individual who cannot here find physical and mental hgalth and pleasure, must be 'past praying for.' The spiritual, as well as temporal, wants of visitors have been provided for — Metho- dist, Congregational, Baptist, and Catholic churches, with a cordial welcome to all on Sundays ; and, between times, pickerel, pike, perch and black bass, canvas-back, teal, mallard, and woodchuck, woodcock, snipe, and pheasant, will keep wicked thoughts from the true sportsman's mind — vcrbimi saf. — for the skilful angler or the good shot." We next enter Waukesha county, and reach the town of that name, with a population of seven thousand souls. This place is beautifully situated in a hilly country ; it has many hotels, renowned for their elegance and superior character, one of these summer houses having accommodation for one thousand guests. Its mineral springs, ten in number, are under the control of a company, who have made the sale of the waters into a large and lucrative business. Our next stopping-place was Nashotah, with its theological college, of some reputation, which has sprung from a '* Mission " established here for the civilization and conversion of the red man, who was ''boss" in these parts half a century ago. The "Mission House " is situated in a charming spot near to the lake, in a well- wooded country, surrounded by high hills and picturesque ravines. Lakes by the score are to be met with within a short distance of Nashotah, whilst smaller sheets of water, creeks, and streams are on every hand. The landscape is one of singular beauty, full of green pastures, with numerous flocks j lofty hills and singularly ' II i I 2l6 A TRIP TO AMERICA. formed rocks rise here and there, and the comfortable homesteads, small and large, make up a delightful feast for the eye. We made a long stay at Oconomowoc, where some farmer friends fro m 'i neighbour- ing village joined us at dinner, and in a survey of the district. No fi n e r situation for a spa resort could . e found any- where, and it is impos- sible f o r me to do it full justice. It has been 1 a V i s h 1 \' Nasliotah Mission ((.'Id and Now). t-M-.iIu i,! l-.«- pi cii.sL CI n\ poets, and journalists have exhausted their metaphors in their attempts to describe its beauties. We visited Lake La Bclk\ to which thousands of visitors are attracted during the summer months, and such a combination of loveliness and grandeur I have never seen excelled. The lake is alive with countless row and sail boats, and graceful steam yachts are ploughing their way along the waters of this most favourite of lakes. Little gems of islands, brauLifully shaded, are the resort of the pic- nic fraternity, whilst the shore, gently rising from the water, is adorned with tasteful villa residences surrounded by verdant lawns and fragrant flowers. ■" This lake covers two and a half square miles, and has on its banks many good hotels, each with a bath-house in the lake. On ■ .'^^ ■.■'^^^>,<^v-5;;\gs-^>.^7):..(j>v(5\y.^.C1^.^/^>.e■7."cft'^ ClIAt'TKK X. h c St C( at St V( pr DI'rrROIT A\D CHATHAM. t^ 3 •,VV • ! A\' TwKNTV-SECONn.- Left Chlcag-o at 9 a.m. for ')etroit, by one of the finely-appointed express trains of the Michi"-an Central Kailwav. Cienerallv, on leavini;' by rail one of the j^reat ICnj^-lish cities, such ;is London, Manchester, or Leeds, one sees but the seamy side of them, but this is not the case on leaving Chicag-o. As soon as the station is left behind, and for many miles on the wav, the view from the window of our carrias^^e is very fine, for. on one side is the lovely lake, at present in a some- what disturbed mood, while, on the other, is a succession of verdant lawns and blooming parterres, large mansions and picturesque villas, almost hidden in trees and shrubbery, indicating that, amidst all the hurry and scurry after wealth by their owners, they have found time to provide themselves with pleasant retreats away from the toil and moil of the great city. We soon pass the charming suburbs of Hyde Park and Woodlawn Park, and then come upon the model manufacturing town of Pullman, on Calumet Lake. This town derives its name from G. i\L Pullman, the originator oi the sleeping car. He came to Chicago from New ^'ork, and was originally a cabinet-maker. His first work in the " metropolis of the lakes" was to devise and carry out a method for raising the buildings o( the city, so as to secure a proper drainage. ^ He raised them all from six to eight feet by the use of hundreds of screw-jacks, which he put under them, while trade went on as usual. Me next turned his attention to the construc- tion of a sleeping car, and his first experiment was made in 1859, when he placed a car upon a train travelling between Chicago and St. Louis. He charged 2s. per berth, and the first night's receipts were cSs. When he began this business he had a capital of ^1,600, and thought himself a very wealthy Uian. At the present time, the Pullman Palace Car Company has invested in its works and carriages upwards of six millions sterling; DETROIT AND CHATHAM. 223 ■■?. for are the greatest railway carriage builders in the States, besides having 1,500 of their own palace cars running, to carry the first- class passengers upon nearly 100.000 miles of American railways, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacilic. from Quebec to San F'rancisco, as well as upon many of the railways in luirope. The Company earns 8 per cent, dividend, has a very large reserve fund, and derives a yearly income of upwards of a million and a quarter sterling from its cars. The town of Pullman is the outcome of an idea of the in- ventor's, by which he intended, while working o\\ strict business principles, to show a spirit of broad philanthropy towards the workman. More than _;^'i,70o,ooo has been invested with this pur- pose in view, and all the capital is made to return an income. The work- people re- cei\e their wages fort- nig h 1 1 y . and it is said that n o o t h e r c o m m u - n i t y o f arti za n s has so good an income, averaging, as it does, ^{'120 per annumfex- clusive oi the salar- Lenving Chicago. ies of the higher paid officers). There are 5,000 operatives, and the amount paid in wages is ^"25,000. More than ^800,000 has been spent upon the workshops, while a still larger sum has been iinested in building the residential portion of the town, the public edihces, and laying out of the town. I'welve years ago the site was a barren tract of land, without a single inhabitant, and now it is o\\m- fortable homes for the operatives. It has a population o{ i^ 000, \vith numerous churches, theatres, and other places of amusement. It is, indeed, another of the wonders of the West. All the shojis are together, in an elaborate structure called the Arcade, and it has also a large covered market. There are no public-houses in the town, 224 A TRIP TO AMERICA. ! for no one is permitted to sell liquor, and the land around the out- skirts of the place hclonj^s to the Company ; so that, a man who fancies that he cannot exist without beer or spirits has to^o a mile over the border to sjfet it. The annual death-rate is 8 in i,ooo, compared with i8 in Chicai^o. There are many other interesting- features in this model town, and visitors to Chicay^o in 1893 will find themselves amply repaid by a visit to Pullman. Speeding- along on our journey, we reach Michigan City, fifty- eight miles from Chicago, and here we have a glimpse of tht lake and the lighthouse at the entrance of the harbour. We lose the \iew of the lake at New Buffalo, and at seventy-five rr.iles reach Three Oaks, a handsome, w .de-awake village ; and then, stid further on, we come upon Diamond Lake, a summer resort with a natural boautv of its own, namcK', a green isle rising from its crvstal depths. As we ride along, t h r o u g^ h Michigan, we find it to be a pic- turesque State, full of fine and fertile f a r tn s , pretty vil- lages, and pros p er- ous towns, with neat stations ontheline. Our next stopping place was at the city of Kalamazoo, with 15,000 inhabitants engaged principally in manufactures. The State Lunatic Asylum and Baptist College are located here. Twenty miles further on is Battle Creek, a well-built city, famous for its manufacture of agricultural machinery, particularly of carriages, waggons, threshing machines, etc. It is also noted as the home of a religious sect known as "The Seventh Day Adventists," who have here a large printing establishment, where books, newspapers, and periodicals are sent out, printed in a dozen languages. igan, ind it DETROIT AND CHATHAM. 225 , vil- and T er- wns, neat lons jline. next -.ing was city ,• in )llege city, ilarly loted Day hero ozcn Between Battle Creek and Marshall is a great wheat district, and it is also celebrated for its fine stock-farms, where magnificent thorough-bred horses are a speciality. We now pass from our parlour car to the dining car, where I find my next enjoyment in discussing, at ease and in comfort, as varied and wholesome a lunch as could be obtainable at a first- class hotel. This company is said to have realised the difierence between feeding and dining, hence, they furnish their patrons with choice viands and good service, the former prepared by an experi- enced chcf^ and the latter served by nimble black waiters, who place before me the different courses served upon dainty crockery and snow-white linen. It is indeed a luxury to feed so luxuriously, whilst taking in from time to time the pie.; >- ing scenery that is fitting by the window of the car. The charge for lunch is one dollar. Soon after lunch is over, we come to Ann Arbor (248 miles), built on both sides of the Huron river. The city is noted as being the home of the University of Michigan, one of the leading seats of learning of the West. Its students come from all parts of the coun- try, and are of both sexes, who pay very low fees and yet secure a high standard of scholarship. The Uni- versity is situated in fine grounds, extensive and well wooded. Ann Arbor has other pretentious buildings, notably a new fire-nroof library, large and valuable museums, and an obser- vatory. It has also mineral springs, a water-cure establishment, an opera house, and several handsome churches. After an hour's ride from Ann Arbor, we reach Detroit (285 miles), a flourishing city of 205,876 inhabitants, where I stay the night. This is a beautiful as well as a prosperous place, for it has seven miles of water front, lined with shipping ; scores of miles of well-shaded a\-enues, streets well-paved and of good width ; fine business blocks and palatial residences, all of which "^o to make up a ru'Uuigc of natural and artificial wealth and of diversilied means of enjoyment, not excelled by many other cities in the States. Kiid view of a Vestibule. ^?^-' 226 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I spent the evening- and part of the following day in the compa ly of one of the librarians of the Free Library, a well- inforined and withal communicative gentleman, who assisted me in my visits to many of the intcrestin*;' places in the city, amongst others the Campus Martins, where stood the old frontier fort built in 1 701, and in which Pontiac besie^red the English for eleven months ; the City Hall, a handsome structure in the Italian style ; _ _ the monument to the memory of Michigan's dead who fell in the Civil War, and to Belle Isle, the city's beautiful island park. In the city of Detroit, as in many other cities in my travels, I as- cended the tower of the City Hall, that I might obtain a panoramic \' i e w of the country, and was well repaid for the labour. I had a bird's- eye view of the surrounding parks ; the river with its busy wharves; the opposite shore of Canada, the swift - sailing lake craft ; the Interior of the Dining Car, grand avenue stretching away as far as the eye could reach, and many other sights, all indicative of American enterprise and progress. May Twenty-Third. — I had a new experience in Detroit, in the passing from American soil to that of Canada, which was accomplished in a novel manner, on a gigantic ferry-boat of steel, propelled by a most powerful engine. On this we crossed the DETROIT ANI3 CHATHAM. 227 river, about Haifa mile, in the railway carriag'es, cluriiii^ which the customs officers examined the luj;"f^aii^e in a very superficial manner, and when our train leaves the ferry-boat, we are .at liberty to pass throuf^'h Her Majesty's Dominion without let or hindrance. It was two o'clock p m. when I reached L'hatiiam, fifty miles from Detroit, and was met at the railway station by a near relative, whom I had not seen for more than fort}- years. To him and his family I ;vm indebted for much personal kindness shown to me diirinj^i^ my brief stay in Chatham. This was my first introduction to Canada, but I should fail in mv dutv to inv friends in the Colony, if I did not say, that no words o( mine can express the warmth with which I was welcomed everywhere in the Dominion, as representing' the mother-country. I was told that three-fourths or more of Iilni^lish traxellers who visit the States, never dream of University of Mich'Ran, Ann Arlior. crossing- over into Canada, hence the Canadians are doubly pleased when some " better-informed Englishman takes the opportunil\- of seeing what his fellow-subjects have done and are doing in this great country, greater in extent than the Republic itself." Chatham is not a very large city, but seems fairly prosperous, and so far as I had an opportunity of judging, is thoroughly loyal to the Old Country May Twentv-F'ourth. — Attended the Wesleyan Chapel in the morning, and in the evening went to church, where a special service was held in connection with a Friendly Society known as '• The Sons of l^ngland." The procession of the members of the order numbered 160 persons, all Kngli^hmen. of course, and sexeral of them from my own county. They were accompanied by a brass i 228 A TRIP TO AMRRICA. band, and much interest was taken in the demonstration, the church, which was prettily decorated, being' filled to its utmost capacity. The preacher was the Rev. J. Murphy, an Irish-Canadian, who delivered a most stirrinj^ appeal to the members of the order, that they mig-ht prove at all times faithful to themselves, to their fellow-men, and especially to their country and Queen. No more loyal address was ever delivered in the Dominion, I should imagine, and at its close all joined most heartily in singing the National Anthei.i. After the service I went into the vestry and thanked the vicar for his splendid discourse, saying that if a rebellious spirit should show itself in that part of the Dominion, he, at least, would have discharged his duty as a faithful minister, and a good subject of Her Majesty. Nowhere in the colony did I meet with any strong feeling in favour of annexation to the United States, though one can- not be in Canada long, without seeing that in point of business enterprise and progress, it is a long way behind its neighbour. With the exception of Toronto and Montreal, there is a lethargy and deadness in the cities, which is, to me, somewhat unaccountable. The census returns recently issued have been sadly disappoint- ing to the friends of the Dominion, for they show, that while the population of the United States has doubled itself every thirty years, the population of Canada has not doubled itself in forty years. The Toronto C/o^t' (Liberal) writing about this, says : — " The precentage of increase in the population of Canada during the last ten years has been less than 12— some overcrowded European countries have often done better — while the percentage in the United States from 1880 to 1890 was 24'85. "In the United States the gain by natural increase was 14'40 per cent., and the gain by immigration 10 '45 per cent, so that our neighbours gained more by natural expansion alone than we have by natural expansion and immigration both put together. "The increase in the population in the Dominion during the last ten years has been under 500,000. Yet, if the Government returns are to be believed, we received during the decade 850,000 settlers through immigration from Europe. In two years, 1883 and 1884, no fewer than 238,000 immigrants are said to have come in. '* What has become of them all, and of the natural growth of the population in Canada itself, seeing that the apparent gain is only five hundred thousand ? If the reader comes, as he probably will, to the conclusion that the exodus has done it, let him ask himself why there should be such a wholesale flight of population from a land like this. " Does the phenomenon sustain the theory that we are living under the best of all trade policies ? The gravest question for Canadians to consider is how to keep the population from going out of the Dominion after we have reared it, and educated it, and provided it with all that borrowed money can buy or build," DETROIT A^D CHATMANf. 14-40 it our have The Empire (Conservative), rcferrinj^ to the census, says : - " Canadian expectations, like those in (Ireat Britain and the I'nited States, ran ahead of realization, and our census returns are marked by very much the same general characteristics as theirs were. "Th', populations of all thtee countries fall below the fii^-ure which was estimated on the gain of the last decade, the proportion- ate increase not having been maintained. As there was disappoint- ment in Cireat Britain and the United States at the results there, the same feeling may prevail in Canada, the general hope having been that we had turned the corner of five millions." The Mo)iln'til Caacltc aljo, in writing of the census returns, says : — "The total population is 4,823,344 ; we had been flattering ourselves with the hope that it would reach fi\e and a quarter millions. Knowing the care taken to secure an accurate enumera- tion, it is not in order to assail the correctness of the figures given. With the evidences of expansion all ;ibout us, however, it is hard to admit that the country over the growth has been less between 1881 and 1891 than between 1871 and 1881. Vet such is shown to be the case by the figures. The cities have apparently absorbed the increase. The growth in population of Montreal and Toronto and their suburbs will account for the largest share of the increase in Quebec and Ontario. In some of the rural communities there must have been a decline. In this respect Canada is but repeating the story of England, of France, of Germany, and, to a large extent, of the United States as well. This movement can be set down as flowing from a general cause, aggravated, doubtless, durim^ the past three years by the poor harvests that have rewarded the farmers' toil." I talked with many leading men in Toronto, Kingston, and Montreal, and the impression made upon my mind was, that, however desirable it may appear to some of the people of Canada, that they should link their fortunes with the United States (and this feeling has been intensified in some quarters since the passing of McKinley Tariff Bill), the country is not ripe for it as yet, though I have an opinion that the time will come for such annexation, or that Canada will become an independent republic. May TwExN'TV-Fifth. — This day, kept this year as the Queen's birthday, is recognised here in a far more loyal manner than by the people in the Old Country. The day is observed by a general holiday, and flags and banners are to be seen everywhere on the private and public buildings of Chatham. Bands are playing, and processions are filling the streets, and a more distinctive holiday I never remember to have seen. In the afternoon, I returned to Detroit via Windsor, from which place I crossed to Detroit in one of the large ferry-boats, and from the hurricane deck of the vessel had a magnificent view of the river and the citv. \ I Chapter XI. BUFFALO AND NIAGARA. :^^nCC>^-' -^■'^ ; AY TwENTV-Fii'TH.-Left Detroit at 3 p.m. for Toledo, *' situate on the west bank of the Maumee River, four miles from Lake Erie, a large city and thriving port. C^f^^'^ Some of my readers will have become acquainted 5a* " with this place through its lively newspaper, T/ic Toledo i^)T Blade. I spent five hours in the city, during which time I ^ visited the principal business streets and the Free Library. ^ At 10 p.m. I left for BuiTalo, passing on the way Lake Erie, 2 10 miles long, and co\ering an area of 10,000 square miles. On to Sr.ndusky Ba\ , upon a long trestle bridge, and then to Cleveland.thechief city of Northern Ohio, 620 miles from New York. It is called the " Forest City," being embowered in trees, including many fine elms. In this city is located the works of the Standard Oil Company, one of the most powerful corporations in America, controUii'.g the vast petroleum trade. The company have a monopoly of this business, and the 60,000 oil wells of Pennsylvania and elsewhere are constantly producing for the owners a princely revenue. After leaving Cleveland, where President Garfield is buried, we pass Mentor station, where, in a small house near the railway, the unfortunate President lived for some time. Through a region of orchards and vineyards ve pass across a narrow strip of the State of Pennsylvania to the border line of New York State, and enter Chatauqua county. Here is the well known Chatauqua Lake, a delightful sheet of water, i.S miles long. The town is a popular svmimer resort, also noted for its annual " Assembly," and the " Sununer Schoo! of Philosophy," a college oi the liberal .-u'ts, with a statr of professors gathered from the leading American universities. As many as 50,000 people attend during the summer season. The Assembly enclosure has w position fronting the lake, and includes, in addition to a large hotel, 1,500 tents and cottages of all kinds. I BUFFALO AND NIAGARA. 2.V I The line of railway between Toledo aiul Buffalo is the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, a road which has long been noted for the beauty of its scenery, and the elegance and comfort of its equip mcnt. The main line is 540 miles in length, and connects the cities of Chicago and Buffalo with branch lines to the oil regions of Pennsylvania, Fort Wayne, Ind,, and to the flourishing cities of Detroit, Jackson, Lancing, Kalamazoo, and the Grand Rapids in Michigan. The equipment of its trains is, indeed, of a very high order of excellence. The sleeping, drawing-room, and dining cars are of Wagner build, and nothing which the ingenuity of man could suggest for the comfort and welfare of passengers is omitted in the'r make-up. The Lake Shore enjoys the distinction of being the line selected by the United States Government as the route of the fast mail trains — - three dai- ly trains being de- voted al- most ex- c lusively to this branch of business. That the Lake Shore will con- u lUil't'ilo Harbour. tribute largel)- to the success o'i the Columbian I'^xposition is a fact not to be disputed, because by this line people will be ena- bled to reach Chicago cheaply and quickl}-. The splendid ter- min.".l facilities of this line in Chicago, gi\e it, it may be said, the key to the World's Fair site, as the palatial passenger station on \'an Buren street, used jointly by the Rock Lsland and Lake Shore, occupies a central position in the city. May Twkntv-Sixth. Reach Bufl'alo at a.m., a city with 255,664 inhabitants, where the Rev. V.. IC. Chi\ers, pastor of the Prospect Avenue Baptist Church, is my host, atid where I also met and was entertained by Mr. Robson, and other \'orkshire friends. The last-named gentleman drove me to the park, the cemetery, and other places, and my host also accompanied me in a drive along many oi the flne avenues with whicli the city is favoured I 232 A TRIP TO AMERICA. BulTalo has upwards of cig-hty miles of asphalted streets, level and smooth as a bowling-i^'reen, where, in the eveninj^s, during- the time I was in the city, bicyclists were thick as mushrooms. Wheels of all patterns, from the old style header-taker to the i lost improved safety, shot along these pleasantly-shaded and electric- ally-lighted thoi'oughfares. A large proportion of the riders were of the gentler sex, and the pretty colours of the dresses, the laugh- ing andchaflling indulged in, and occasionally the sight of dashing wheelmen and wheelwomen relieved by the sudden appearance of some club, filing along duck-fashion, with the club colours flying from the handles of each wheel, made up a picture of real and harmless enjoyment. Buffalo covers 42 square miles ; is lighted by 4,500 gas lamps and 1,300 electric lights ; is drained by 226 miles of sewers ; has 280 miles of water pipes, and when I was there, was just comple- ting a new reservoir to accommodate 125,000,000 gallons of water. The waterworks earn a revenue to the city of ;^ioo,ooo a year, a sum that at 6 per cent, would pay the interest on an investment of ;^i,65o,ooo, or nearly twice the value of the works. The cost of water for manufacturing purposes is i^^d. per 1,000 gallons, more than twice as cheap as that of any other large city in the Union, except Milwaukee, which charges 2y2d. per 1,000 gallons. In the supply of education for the people, the city has invested in school buildings ;^36o, 000, and pays for their yearly maintenance ;;^ 170,000 ; it has also 700 teachers employed, in addition to which it has upwards of fifty private schools and colleges. Buffalo is a great railway and maritime centre, having a fleet of 300 vessels, with a water-front of lake, river, and ship canal, of twenty miles, with twenty-five lines of railways, leading" from the city in every direction ; indeed she is one of the greatest railway centres in the world, having more than 660 miles of rail track within Lne city limits, and 250 passenger trains daily. There are many other interesting features of the city, in regard to which she has no rival in the world, notably, as a coal distributing centre, a sheep market, fresh-fish market, lumber or timber market, and she stands up proudly as having the second largest cattle and wheat markets. It is also the local distributing point for a district inhab- ited by 1,500,000 people, and bids fair to become one of the greatest cities on the American continent. A somewhat sanguine writer has predicted that Buffalo is destined to have a glorious future : — *' E\ciy furrow turned on Dakota's plains, j'lmost every blow struck with keen-edged axes in the forests that stand on the rugged Lake Superior region ; the ceaseless hammering of compressed-air drills in the Lake Vermilion iron mines ; the work of thousands of PennsNJvania coal miners — in short, almost every blow struck in primary productive industries in the region tributary to the lake>, adds to the prosperity of Buffalo. BUfFALO AND NIAGARA. 'R "As I look forward to Buffalo's future, I am not at all certain that Chicago will be the largest city on the lakes. I strong-ly incline to the belief that the Erie Canal will eventually draw to Buffalo the commerce of a region which living men will see inhabited by 25.000,000, the larger portion of whom will be producers of bulky, primary products, and all of whom will be large consumers of coal and iron. If Buffalo secures this trade, and she can, then Buffalo and not Chicago will be the second American city." In the afternoon we visited the Public Li- brary, a handsome building, in close proximity to which is the Soldiers' Monument. The courteous librarian gave useveryattention, and pointed out to us the various objects of interesi in the place, particularly two large cases wliich stood in the noble entrance hall and distribu- ting room of the library. These cases contained magr.ificently bound volumes of MS. works of more than fifty distinguished authors, including Dickens, Scott, Thacke r- ay, Long- f e I 1 o w . Holme s , ICnierson , T r o 1 1 o p e , etc., etc. These had been collec- ted by a w e .1 1 t h y c i t i z e n , who had them uni- f o r m 1 \' bound and 1 e 1 1 ered , and then --=^^;v:;:r^^P««>'!SiW|is*w^'i^ The Solilloi>' A[oiiiiiiuiit. generously presented them to the library o( his native town. May Twenty-Seventh.— This morning I had the opportunity of seeing some of the work which is being carried on in tlie pubhc free schools of the country. Mr. Chivcrs toi)k me to the Bullalo 1 ligh School, a building of magnificent proportions, and thoroughly well- equipped in all its departments. My friend conducted the preliminary exercises in the large hall of the building. The commodious, airy, ^34 A tRIP To AMERICA. I and comfortable room was quite filled, by seven hundred pupils and some twenty or more teachers, male and female in about equal proportions, the scholars ranging from 14 to 20 years of age. It was a beautiful sight, all present being neatly dressed and scrupu- lously clean, a point never overlooked in American schools. After a hymn had been sung, a chapter of the Bible read, and prayer offered by Mr. Chivers, the pupils were dismissed to their respective class rooms. I was informed that the scholars were drawn from all classes of society, the occupations ot the parents including merchants, tradesmen, farmers, masons, lawyers, labourers, and almost every other handiciaft. A praiseworthy feature of the school is the keeping of a visitors' book, for the practice of visiting the schools in America is very common, and said to be very beneficial. Parents take their friends, and even business men when they can spare half an hour, go in and listen to the lessons, and say a word of encouragement. It would be well for our English schools if, now when they are made accessible to every child in the country, some such acknowledgment of the important work of the day school was shown by the people, for here, as in America, it would have the efi"ect of stimulating the teachers and encouraging the scholars to regular and active preparations. We visited the various class-rooms, which we found to be lofty, well-lighted, and well-ventilated apartments. The scholars, of both sexes, were seated in a mixed manner at their convenient little desks — eachscholar having a chairand desk— thelatter havingaslate rack, a groo\e for the pencil, and a small cup for the sponge, with which to rub out the figures. The first room we went into was occupied by the class in physiology, the teacher being a young lady M.D., who, with a divided skull in her hand, was demonstrating to her fifty pupils the functions of the brain, the diseases to which it was liable, and the means to be used to keep it healthy and in goijd condition for its work. With a fluency and clearness of exposition which were remarkable, she gained the unflagging interasL of her class, which she subsequently examined on the points \o which she had been directing their attention. We went into other class-rooms, where w ere other young ladies as comely as they were efiicient, and in one of the rooms, devoted to reading and spelling, 1 was much struck with the great care which was taken to give the scholars a clear and sharp articulation, an accomplishment in which the cultured American excels. I visited the class in geology, presided over by an eminent professor, who made his lesson most interesting and instructive by means of specimens and maps. With a head master so able, and teachers so accomplished, and scholars so wide-awake and apt as those I saw to-day, it was clear to me that the people of Bufl'alo have reason to be proud of this educational institution, and the work it is doing. At certain seasons of the year, graduating <' BUFFALO AND NIAGARA. 1) were vhich been exercises are held in connection with the American nii,^h Schools, and the pupils, after certain examinations arc successfully passed, are drafted off to the various universities in the States, and from this particular school the percentage of successful pupils is very hijj^h, which testifies to the sound training- which is imparted to the youths and maidens who are privileged to get their education within its walls. It was ofttimes a subject of discussion with the company I was thrown into, as to the wisdom, or otherwise, of training boys and girls together, but the preponderance of opinion was in favour ot' the American system, as, being a continuation of the home life, where the influence of brother and sister is mutually helpful and beneficial. Certainly, during my visit to the States, I saw thousands of pupils in mixed schools leceiving^ their education in the most pleasant and orderly manner, without any sign of levity or objec- tionable behaviour, and an eminent professor, on being asked if the practice did not lead to love-making, said, " There is less of mere flirtation here than amongst any equal number of young men and women brought up under different conditions. But the male and female students come to know each other, and if the friendships formed in school or college should lead to marriage afterwards, as is often the case, we see nothing in that to be deplored. The marriage is likely to be all the happier that the youth and maid ha\ e become so familiar with each other's tastes and abilities." My friend told me that the effect of this joint education on the young men was in many respects exceedingly beneficial. The presence of the other sex was a great stimulus, as the hoys did not like to fall behind the girls in their studies. It had also a relining influence on their manners. As to how it affects the girls is not so easily defined. Whether they retain the modesty and refinement which are amongst their best charms, I cannot pretend to say on so superficial an acquaintance as I made with the system, but 1 maybe allowed to give the opinion of a college student who married a young lady from the same college. " The idea," he said, " of kis- sing a girl who has sti:died anatomy and knew quadratic equations, alarmed me at first, but after making the experiment, 1 found the kiss the sweetest I cer got in my life." In nearly all the public schools of Ameriv:a, the practice of educating boys and girls together is all but uni\ersal. On leaving the Hig^h School we went to the railway station and booked for Niagara, which interesting region we reached in little more than half an hour, a journey though much shorter than many others I took in my travels, compressing within it more eager anticipation than all the rest put together. To have the dream of a life-time realized, and to have before one the actual scene, in all its grandeur and *e- Cantilever Eridgc. J BLFFALO AND NIAGARA. 247 s work bled to , I will ithority iavs : — •avel to to give slights, renders re pre- I know iwerful. tower, not so un tains s is less .^•land is xorably Dickens It was a me to Rock — great ! — on rail of g r e c n hat it me in to my ^ one — Peace. 1 — great 00m or 1 Image s pulses ly from s vision ve since is, that cription ideas of in that aspects, s above ( it from the river, and down upon it from the Terrapin Tower. I have bathed in its light, and been drenched with its spray. I have dreamed over it through the hot afternoon, and have heard it thunder in the watches of the night. On all the headlands, and on all the islands, I have stood entranced and wondering while the mist has shrouded it, and while the sun has broken it into rainbows. I have seen it lleecy as the snowflake ; deepening into the brightest emerald; dark and leaden as the angriest November day — but in all its moods there is instruction, solemnity, delight. Stable in its perpetual instability ; changeless in its everlastmg change ; a thing to be ' pondered in the heart,' like the Revelation by the meek Virgin of old; with n ^ pride in the brilliant hues wl ich are woven in its eternal loom ; Wi h no haste in the majestic roll oi' its waters ; with no weariness in its ondless psalm ; it remains through the eventful years an embodiment of unconscious power, a lively in- spiration of thought, and poetry, and worship— a magnificent apocalypse of God." » f m Chapter XII. UTICA AND TRENTON. "'^IaY Twenty- Eighth.— Left Buffalo for Utica hy_ an early morninyf train on the New York Central Line. This ^reat railway has its steel road for double sets f> ^QyS^'^ of rails from Buffalo to Albany, 297 miles,^ and t .len {^^ along the bank of the Hud; on River to New York, an entire length of 440 miles. \\^^^ the Lake Shore Line C in connection, it makes a through communication with r Chicago, a total distance of 980 miles. A marvellous feat in rapid travelling was performed in September last on this line. A train left New York, and accomplished the distance to East Buffalo, 436 miles, in 439 minutes, or at the rate of Oi'y miles per hour, without allowance for ;;toppav.es. Here are some previous records to; long distance runs : — A London and North-Western train, ;n August, 1888, made a trip from London to Edinburgh, 400 miles, in seven hours and fifty-twc minutes, which i:: a gross speed of 50-9 miles an hour. It made three stops, and the actual running time was seven hours and thir- teen minutes, or 55"4 miles an hour. There were four cais, and the engine, tender, and cars weighed less than 130 tons. A West Shore train, in July, 1885, soon after the road was opened, made a run from East Buffalo to Weehawken, 42 2 -6 miles, in nine hours and thirty-three minutes, at a speed of forty-five miles an hour, not counting stops. A newspaper train on the New York Central, in May, 1886, made a fast trip from New York to IJuffalo. Wat it developed a gross speed of only 45-3 miles an hour, without allowing for stops. The Baltimore and the Ohio and the Pennsyl- ^ ania have made very fast special runs, but Tione of them have come up to the run of the Scotch express for a distance of over 400 mile - ih^ Bal'.imore and Ohio, however, in conjunction with the Readin-^ and Jersey Central, 'las the fastest scheduled train in the woi 1.1 f-)r a distance of over 200 miles. The Royal Blue Limited, betweei: K 'sey and Washington, makes the run at an average i •J 'J is . i-^0 A TRIP TO AMERICA. actu;il speed of 52'8 miles an hour, and does it every day. The Scotch express between London and Edinburoil furiously in the abyss into which they first fall, and the clouds of spray which rise from them. There was an enormous volume of water at the time of our visit, and the <^rand sheet of brown water was made still more enchanting by a y^org"eous rainbow which spanned it. Above this Fall the torrent comes down through a succession gf rapids, and the chasm broadens and the rocks on either side attain still g"reater altitudes. We now crawl a'oni;;" a slippery and uncertain footpath, until we round a point iu our walk, where, instantaneously, we are delighted with the sight of the High Falls. it High Falls, Trenton. With feeling-s of awe, as well as admiration, we stand and take in the marvellous view. No painter in water-colours could produce a more perfect picture, for the stream is framed in rock, fringed with evergreens and shrubbery, spangled with wild flowers, and cano- pied by the blue vault of heaven. The Fall is triple, and has a leap of seventy feet. " It begins with the colour of melted topaz, while the cedars and hemlocks of the forests abo\e impart the amber hue to the torrent. As it descends the water becomes gradually lighter, until tiie brown turns to a creamy white, which is finally lost under the cloud of spray. These varied colours were singularly beautiful, as the sunlight fell with delicious effect upon the waters." e Sher- ■ in the ch rise le time ide still cession er side cry and where, 1 Falls. s-'-^^i^'S r-sM* take in oduce a ;"ed with id cano- id has a d topaz, part the becomes ?, which irs were ;ct upon I'TKA ANP TRENTON. :.->n MoLintiiij^ still hiijfher we come upon a small building- intended as a resting; place, but it was closed, and we had to content our seKcs with the outside seat in front. Some jj^irls in the ra\ine lar below us look like pij^'inies, as they toil aloui^" the roui^-Ii road lead- ing- to the I<'all. Here, under tlie densely foliated trees, we sit and muse and drink in the beauty of the scene, until we are Part of nigh Falls. Trenton. reminded that there is still much more walking to be done, so we travel on to the Mill Dam Fall, and a few yards further to the Alhambra Cascade, a place of such romantic charm, that it is the despair of artists. " All this region is a geological mine of inesti- mable knowledge, and is in reality aTitanic fissure cracked throuj^^h i .1 'A \ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I 11.25 lit lU m Hi III m u 140 Hiotographic ^Sciences Corporation .# \ k ^V ^ ««^. V ^. 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WItSTU.N.Y. MSM (716) •72-4S03 6^ 25^> A TRIP TO AMKRIfA. the crust of mother earth, down which roars and dashes a tremen- dous torrent. Its place amonjj^ American wonders ranks closely .'liter Nia};"ara. By no means as j^r.'ind as that peerless waterfall, and constructed on a smaller scale, yet its unique character and attractions of cataracts, ra|'ids. and j^or^e, all framed in a most beautiful settinj^, as rom.'intic and picturesque as it is sublime, make it worth the while cominj^- as far to see." Heyond the Cascade, walking;' on we pass throus^^h the Rocky Heart, a beautiful sitjht to look upon, and thence on until we climb the steps of the upper stairway to the cliff. A mile beyond this, at IVospect, is another fall, entirely different from any we ha\e passed. Over the face of a solid wall of rock, fully one hundred feet in width, passes the water, behind whose veil-like thinness the layers of Trenton limestone are distinctl\ seen. Retraciiii,'' our steps, we take the upper path throuj^h the native wood which skirts the iony;- chasm, back to the hotel for rest and refreshment, as well as to think over the beauties of this, one of nature's masterpieces in the mai^nilicent work with which her jLjalleries are adorned. Lo\ersofthe beautiful and picturesque in nature should not pass unvisited these lovely 1-alls. May Thiktihth.- This is Memorial Day, the day in the States which is devoted to the memory of the men who foujjht for the cavise of their country, and w ho sleep beneath the sod. To-day their tfraves are to be decked with flowers, their deeds to be recounted, and their praises to be sun^. This custom of decorating the soldiers' graves, is in my opinion, one well worthy of perpetual observance. Tne men who so readily went to the front for their country were patriots, whose memory a grateful people ought always to be willing to honour. To set apart one day in the year for that purpose is none too much. The nation owes its present unexampled prosperity, and the stillhigl-er positionitwill occupy in the future, to theresult accom- plished by the war. To honour those who were patriots, and who were loyal to the Republic when it stood in need of defenders, is the surest way to inculcate a love and respect for loyalty and patriotism. To honour heroes is a certain way to raise up other heroes worthy of honour, (ireat achievements bear fruit for all time. The greatest principle in the purest life of the world is sacrifice. This gives to Christianity its power, and is the law which speaks in every cross and altar. The greatness and beauty of sacrifice are seen in the act of those who gave up their lives for their country. "If other eyes grow dull and other hands slack, and other hearts cold in this solemn tiust, ours shall keep it as long as the lij^ht and warmth of life shall remain in us." This was the sacred pledge formulated by the (.irand Army o\' the Republic twenty-three \cars ago. and the loyal fidelity with which it has been kept is attested every 30th oi' May by the long processions marching through city, town, and village, to i.\o honour to the memory of the departed ones who wore the blue. for th< :M I'TICA AND TRENTON. ■3/ her as was the •h it ions the Until the terrible lesson of the war of the rebellion shall be forj^otten, Memorial Day will continue to be dear to tho hearts of the Northern people, and it will be remembered as long as " 'I he ijrass is green wliere tlicy calmly rtst, Tiiose veterans true and brave ; Their memory sliines like a radiant star O'er the land llu-y diid to sive." We leave Utica snu|^Iy ensconsed in the rich and picturesque Mohawk valley, and we continue its descent until we reach Little Falls, a manufacturing^ centre well-known to ^'orkshire employees, and then we go on to Schenectady, 280 miles from Huffalo. I'rom the train we get a good view of the lulison Mlectric Works, an immense pile of buildings; also the locomotive works and the sheds of the Gilbert Car Manufacturing Company. Historically, this city is one of the most picturesque in the valley. On the night of February qth, 1690, occurred the burning of Schenectady by a party of 250 French and Indians from Canada, whose purpose ^■% '^'^^!mA^^^ Albany. was to rout the Dutch and get control o[ 'he entire province of New ^'ork. The town and " Fort Scanec- t h a d e " w a s burned and the i n h a b i t a n t s murdered. Half-an-hour after leaving the old Dutch city, we roll into the quaint old city of Albany, the capital of New York State, with a population of 110,000 persons. It is finely situated, for the city is built over the face of a lofty and steep hill, on which is located the capitol of the State, a large structure, covering an area of nearly three acres, being 3C0 feet wide and 390 feet deep. Its cost up to the present time is ;£,'4,ooo,coo. Albany is a busy and prosperous place, and occupies a prominent commercial position, being located on the Hudson River and the eastcn terminus of the Frie Canal. It is also a great railw.ay centre to which manv important lines con\erge, and the American Rhine is at its feet, and as a whole the city is full of interest to the traveller, and worthy of a much longer visit than I was enabled to pay it. We now commence our journey along the bank of the Hudson River, and find the travelling on this great four-track route very '^t 25« A TRIP TO AMERICA. enjoyable, from the smoothness of the road and the evcr-chanj^in^ panorama with which we are favoured. For 150 miles we follow the course of this noble river, throug"h scenes of rural beauty, ever- varyinfj but always interesting^. At first the river is shallow, with many islands doited over with white j^roups of ice-houses, bordered with broad meadows and fring-ed with jetties and breakwaters, to keep within proper bounds the waters that would otherwise over- flow the channel. At Hudson the river has widened, and beyond it we can see the beautiful p.-morama of the Catskill Mountains, the landinj^- place for which is a few miles beyond the Hudson. WTZ One mountain — the ' Round Top, 3,800 feet hijjh, some seven miles away, is dis- tinctly visible. At other points in our journey we sec old Dutch homesteads, fertile farms, and now and ajjain a charm- in {;• villa residence near the water's edj^e. The hills on the opposite side of the river now become «freater in height and grander in appearance. The r i \- e r expands in- to lake-like bays, dotted here an d there with craft of vari- ous kinds. We halt at Poughkeepsie, of which, however, we can see but little from the car, and then we run )n to Fishkill, where we can see on the opposite bank the handsomely-built and delightfullv- located city of Newburgh, in which is an old gray stone house, at one time Washington's head quarters. Heyond Xewburgh Hav we come to the famed Highlands of the Hudson, and for nianv miles now we have a succession of scenery, romantic and ^rand in the extreme. 26o A TRIP TO AMERICA. At West point we g-et a view of the National Military Academy, and then we travel on and pass in succession Peekskill, Sing-Sing, where the State Prison is located ; Tarrytown, celebrated in Revolu- tionary history ; Irvington, named in honour of Washington Irving ; Yonkers, a large and important manufacturing city, and at one time the home of Mary Phillipse, the first love of George Washington ; and Spuyten Duyvel, ii miles from New York, where our train leaves the Hudson and follows Spuyten Duyvel Creek, a locality famous in song and story. Of all these places, and others on the Hudson, I may write further when I have sailed down its entire length on one of the magnificent Hudson river steamboats. Six miles »Vom New York we come to the "High Bridge, so- called, but which is in fact a viaduct for carrying the waters of Croton I.ake into the city. This bridge crosses the Harlem River at Jin elevation of over one hundred feet, and is composed of eight columns of granite, surmounted by arches of eighty feet span. A few hundred feet north of High Bridge is Washington Bridge, a massive iron and stone structure composed of three graceful arches, connecting Manhattan Island with the mainland, and said to be one of the most beautiful bridges in the world." Late in the evening I reached the Grand Central Station, New York, and without much difficulty found my way by means of the Elevated Railway to my home in Brooklyn. May Thirty-first. — Went in the morning to the Washington Avenue Baptist Church, and listened to an excellent sermon by the Rev. Edward Braislin, D.D. June First. — Left New York at 10.30 a.m. for Buffalo, travel- ling over again by way of the Hudson River, the 440 miles to the last named city, which I reached at 9 p.m. somewhat wearied with the journey, though I had made it in one of the handsomely- appointed parlour-cars of the New York Central line. Found rest and a welcome at the hospitable home of my friend the Rev. E. E. Chivers. Grand Central Station, New York. Chapter XIII. TORONTO AND KINGSTON. K. UNE Second. — Went with my friend and three other Baptist ministers to a Tuscarora — Indian Reservation, Z^^'%^-{^ thirty miles from Buffalo. Alijjhting at Irving station, 'isiPy"^ we were met by one of the Indians, who, with a primi- \%j*'^' tive-looking conveyance and two horses, was waiting to J^ take us to the Reservation, three miles away. Seventeen 7r* hundred of this Indian tribe live upon the territory, which V is fifteen miles long by three in width, and consists or good farming land, deserving of better treatment than it obtains at the hands of its owners. There are two churches on the Reservation, a Baptist and a Presbyterian, and our mission was to attend a conference in connection with the first named body, and to put matters straight which had somehow got awry. There is also an Orphanage on the estate, with accommodation for 200 children, and eleven Common Schools, which are fairly well attended. We were driven along a roughish road by our Indian guide, who, by the way, was a fine specimen of the tribe, quick-witted, with a piercing black eye and a determined look. He was, how- ever, one of the leading members of the Baptist congregation, and evinced great interest in our mission. Just before we came in sight of his home, a farm-house of moderate size, but poorly fur- nished, we could hear the toll of the chapel bell, calling the people to the service, which was to commence at 10.30 a.m., and for which we were just in time. The chapel was a neat but plain little edifice, painted white, with tower and bell. Inside, the walls and ceiling were papered throughout, and there was a chandelier suspended from the ceiling with four oil lamps attached. Two stoves, with the piping carried the length of the place over the heads of the people, furnished the necessary warmth in winter. The chapel would accommodate about i^o worshippers, but on this occasion the congregation numbered some 15 men and 25 women, the two sexes sitting apart, clad in civilized attire, but of the plainest material. 262 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I was not enamoured ol' their appearance, so far as cleanliness was concerned, for all lojked as \i a liberal application o( soap and water would be beneficial. They were indeed of the real Indian type, especially the older members, who, if they had been in their normal dress of paint and feathers, would have certainly j^iven a true representation of the wild Indians who figured in the books of travel we read in our childhood. I cannot say that I was much impressed with the religious devotion displayed, for, as it subsequently appearev', there were some grievances to be settled, and this state of mati.o«-s did not tend to that calmness of spirit and feeling necessary for a full enjoyment of religious exercises. One of our deputation presided over the deliberations, and another played the harmonium. The service opened with the hymn **0, to grace how great a debtor," and the effect of part of the congregation singing in the Tuscarora language and the remainder in the English tongue, was certainly novel, if not very harmonious. Prayer was offered in English, and a second hymn " Jesus, lover of my soul," was rendered in the same dual manner. At the conference Austen John and Blue Sky acted as inter- preters, and Mr. Jackson, another Indian, was appointed to act as ijrk, and gave the following statistics: — ^No. of members on s hurch books, 136, and the average attendance at the Sunday services, 30. There was no Sunday School, and on account of jealousy amongst the leaders, the cause had declined. They had sent a petition to the Baptist State Convention, asking for a pastor i-_ be sent amongst them, basing their application on the fact that :tt one time America belonged to the Indians, and they still con- sidered they had some claim upon the new comers. The discussion was carried on in the Tuscarora language, and lasted for three hours, after which we were invited to dine with our Indian friend, who subsequently drove us to the railway station in time to catch the evening train for Buffalo. Notwithstanding some drawbacks, this was a day to be remembered for its strange and novel experiences amongst a fast-decaying people. June Third : — Left Buffalo in the forenoon for Toronto, via Niagara and Lewiston. The last-named town is on the Niagara river, seven miles below the Falls, whence the steamer starts for Toronto. On this short but somewhat exciting railway ride, we obtained occasional glimpses of the river, which here runs between perpendicular cliffs for three or four miles with great force, some- tii.ies taking the form of rapids, and at other places eddying in whirlpools. It was raining hard when we reached Lewiston, and we at once boarded the steamer " Cibola," which soon got under weigh, and carried us* past Kingston Heights on the Canadian Shore. We now came in sight of two forts and settlements ; on the west a British, and on the east an American, and between them TORONTO AN'D K'INGSTON' 26^ the broad deep channel of the transparent river, and its precipitous banks. From Lewiston to Toronto across Lake Ontario is a distance of thirty-five miles, and this we accomplished in a little over two hours, the rain bearinj^us company all the way, and o lour landing" in Toronto it was coming down in torrents. Mr. J. L. NichoUs, and other \'orkshire friends, were on the landing stage to give me wel- come, and we were soon safely sheltered in the comfortable riH>ms of the Reform Club, where at lunch I was introduced to the Hon. Ci. W. Ross, Minister of Kducation, several of the City Councillors, and other citizens. I was highly pleased with Toronto, and the district around, which is very beautiful. Charming villas, surrounded by well kept gardens in Rosedale and its neighbourhood, reminded one contin- ually of the Old Country. The city is indeed the "Queen City of the Lake," and is a healthy and vigorous English off hoot. It is favoured with a trinity of blessings— situation, climate, and soil, all alike of a satisfactory character. The shops in King Street, the principal thoroughfare, two miles in length, are equal to any- thing I saw in the States, and with every sign of prosperity in the city, I was not surprised to learn that property and land are in- creasing enormously in \alue. Toronto was the " city of refuge," for the fugitive slave, in the old slavery days. It is now, for a city of little more than fifty years growth, a wonderful place, with a thriving and industrious population of more than 200,000 souls. It abounds with parks and squares, pleasant " breathing-spaces," and its climate is both invigorating and salubrious, resulting from the influence of Lake Ontario, which bounds it on the south. It has sometimes been styled the "City of Churches," and the title is well deserved, if one may judge from the number and beauty of the sacred edifices I saw in my drive through the city. It is also the political, com- mercial, legal, religious, literary, and educational centre of Ontario, hence, it has many clubs, banks, law-courts, libraries, and schools. The weather having improved, we drove in and about the residential portion of the city, where beautiful residences are on every hand, all testifying to a high ideal of domestic life. Mere, too, as in New England, I was ple.sed to find the English system of enclosing private grounds finds no favour, on the contrary, re- liance is placed upon moral defences for the protection of property, and every confidence (which I was informed, is seldom abused) is put in the civility and good-will of the public. This is a phase of social progress not yet realized in the Old Country. In driving about the city I was much impressed with the English appearance of both pUvce and people. I met with English speech and ways everywhere, and even in the names of the streets and shops this peculiarity was observable. If there is one draw- 264 A TRIP TO AMKRUA. back to the attractions of Toronto, it is in the fact, that it is built on a Hat phiin, with only one slij^hl elevation to the northward, but, if in this respect it is not so picturesqu.^ as Montreal or (Juebec, it is beautified by its many fine public buildinj^-s, many of them of a pleasinjjf ICng-lish style of architecture. This is seen in the hand- some villas, churches, banks, and other financial establishments. Dismissing? our ''cabby," we took the ferry-boat to Hanlan's Island, a delightful summer resort of the citizens, where we found a lar^e hotel, many cosy cottaj^es, a lij^ht-house, and every con- venience for sailing-, rowing, or steaming on the bay. I'rom this island we had a fine view of the magnificent water-front of the city, the chief attraction of the place. «iiVi.. 7V-f Toronto University. June Fourth. — Took a carriage drive across the Rosedale Ravine, connected with the city by two ornamental bridges, to the charming suburb beyond, and then to the University, a grand Norman pile recently testored, after being burnt down, except the outer walls and noble front. We were pleased with the beauty and solidity of the structure, the harmony of the design, and its charming situation in spacious and well-kept grounds. Near to the University we saw Wycliffe College, and the splendid hall of the University Young Men's Christian Association. We next visited High Park, the pic-nic grounds of the Torontonians. The grounds are 320 acres in extent — a magnifi- cent stretch of hill and dale, with fine grown trees and shrubbery. The Park was given to the city by J. G. Howard, an old resident, who is buried within its borders, along with his wife, in a massive .A. TOUONTO .WD KINGSTON. 265 .Stone mausolouiu erected in the j^touiuIn tluiinj,' his life lime. 'liie railing,' surrouiuliii^ the tonilt I hail seen many times before, it having' at one lime formed part of the fence ari>und St. haul's Cathedral in London. .Another feature attached to these railirij^s is that on t!ie ;->assa},^e out the vessel was wrecked, but .NIr. Howard was ni>t to be dis.ipp4>inted in his desire, so he had the rails recovered from the bed of the S>. Lawrence river by the aid of divers, and thus carried out his orij^inal design. I lavinj^ an appointment with the \\i.m. (1. W. Ri>ss, I.L. H., M.l\r., who had kindly volunteered to show us over the Normal School, we proceeded to that educational institution, and were welcomed by the Minister, who is a man of many parts, and though unaided by fortune, has attained a very hi^'h and honourable position in the Dominion. He is lawyer, politician, cabinet minister, and the administrator of the Educational Department of Government. It is said that " he brings to his work the powers of a vigorous mind, a store of practical experience as a teacher, .and much enthusiasm in the cause of popular education." In the Mouse and on the platform, Mr. Koss is a forcible and eloquent speaker. The Normal Collej,''e is built upon one of the nu>st pleasinj^ sites in the city. The buildinj^s include, in addition to the Schi>i>l, the lulucation ollice and the Depositaries and the I'^ducational Museum. The buildinj^s are in the centre of an open square. abi)ut seven acres in extent. In front of the school is a line bronze statue to the memory of the late Dr. R\erson, whosj untirinj^ efforts in the cause of education are thus perpetuated. The lulucational Museum contains specimens of ('anadian and Natural History, and the best varieties of maps charts, diagrams, philoso- phical apparatus, and school furniture. The School is for the traininj;' of teachers, and the work carried on is mainly professional, the studies embracini,'- the History and Science of ICducation, the Principles and Practice of Teachinj^, and School Organization and Manaj,''ement. We visited the various class-rooms, in which Hyg^iene, Chemistry, Drawing", Physics, etc., etc., were being tauj^ht, also the Model School, which has its home in the building^. VVe saw also the exercises of the scholars of the Kinderyfarten School, which were hii;"hly interesting^. We went to the Collej^iate Institute, ably presided over by .Mr. A. MacMurchy, M..\., editor of the Canada Eiiacational Monthly, and a Scotchman by birth. We saw over every department of this excellent institution, and had the course of study explained to us by the Rector, who has won for the institute a hij^'h and honourable repute, and from it, we were informed, thousands of young- men had been sent, who, in many different walks of life, have made their mark, and are worthy citizens of the Dominion. Should any of my readers intend visiting Toronto, let me advise them to obtain beforehand an exhaustive and superbly- 366 A tRiP to AMftRfCA. illustrated volume, dm Toronto^ Ohi duii W"n\ published by the Mail rrintinj; Company, and from the mass oi statistics and other valuable information, as well as from the hundreds of photo- illustratii>ns which the work contains, they will be better enabled to appreciate the many beauties of the " Queen City." During my brief stay in the city, Mr. and Mrs. Nicholls, Mr. Cockburn, Mr. Cockin, and others, showed mc no little kindness. I left Toronto at 8.30 p.m., for Kingston, formerly the capital o'i Canada, but that honour is now ^iven to Ottawa. This railway journey was the most uncomfortable of any that I took durinj^ my trip, for there was no sleepinj^-car on the train, and the time dra^'^ed wearily along- until 2.30 a.m., when we reached our des- Fort Henry, KingAton Harbour. lination. I "put up'' at the Hotel Frontenac, near the station, a very comfortable hostelry. Jl'NE Fifth. — After breakfast, I called upon Mr. Henry Folger, to whom I had a letter of introduction from my friend Mr. Carleton. I was given a hearty welcome to the stately and antiquated city, and we were soon driving through the principal streets to my host's charming villa on the lak*^ shore. Kingston occupies a very picturesque site on Lake Ontario, its principal buildings resting on a peninsula between the St. Lawrence and the Rideau Canal. This peninsula is a gentle slope, on which the town rises from the shore. On the other side of the TORONTO AND KINGSTON. 2^7 •J- ■^4 '-i^:i '-..1 canal is I'ort Homy, a strong- fortress, aiul on other strips of land between the town and the l''orl arc other buiklinj^s, havinj;- coni- nuinication with the town by lonj;- bridj^^es. Kinj^ston is a very old place, and has played an important ro/c in Canadian history, both as a military post and a political centre. The French had at one time a fort and villajjj^e her;;, I'ort l''ri>ntenac, traces of which are still visible. Most of the public biiildin},''s are of blue-j^rey stone, which ^ives an air of solidity, as well as o[' melancholy, to the city. At dinner 1 met Principal Cirant, D.D. , I'resident of the Royal S»>ciety of Canada, and Professor Watson, LL.I)., of Queen's Cniversity, and had much interestinjjc conversation rej^-ardinj;- the probable future of the Dominion. Later in the evening I accom- panied my host and his family to the Opera Hovise, to witness a representation, by ladies and gentlemen of the town, of Cioldsmith's evergreen comedy, " She Stoops to Conquer." The performance was ^iven in aid of some charitable institution, and the performers acquitted themselves very creditably. June Sixth. — Went with Mr. Foljjer to the Penitentiary, a massive block of buildings situate about two miles from the city. We were shown over every part of the establishment by the chief warder — an Irishman. We saw the cells, rising in tiers one above the other, with a separate corridor for each tier ; the workshops, the provision stores, the chapel, and schools. We also saw — a most painful sight -se\eral prisoners who were being visited by their wives and little children, a privilege granted twice a year, the interview lasting for an hour on each occasion. In the afternoon I went by one of Mr. Folger's boats through the Thousand Islands to Alexandria Hay. To my host, his amiable wife, and three sons, I must here return my obligations for many kindnesses shown to me whilst I was at Kingston. ttmAmeai nex Enj Car stej Chi The 163 Chapter XIV. thp: thousand islands. -t. j» t^ ,,('^\^ROM the hurricane deck of Mr. Folder's well-appointed ^IJP L steamboat, bound for Alexandria Bay, I look down upon *" a multitude of Saturday afternoon pleasire-seekers who crowd the deck below us, and who are evidently bent on having a "good time" whilst taking the excursion to the Bay and back. For a couple of shillings, they are ^ enabled to enjoy a sixty miles sail amongst the loveliest / river scenery on the American Continent. We had not left the fortified harbour of Kingston, with its forts and Martello towers, far behind, ere we saw that the lake had con- tracted intci the funnel-shaped head of the St. Lawrence, enclosing the uncounted islets, small and great, which are known by the name of the Thousand Islands. We are now on the wonderful St. Lawrence river, sometimes called the Grand River — La Gfondc Riviere — as the French de- lighted to call it ; and who, indeed, can describe its mMny beauties? Where so many writers of acknowledged literary merit have failed, it were hopeless for me to attempt the task. But since I have seen something of its charm, I may venture to give my little experiences for what they may be worth. The St. Lawrence is, in my opinion, one of the most interest- ing water-ways in the world, combining in its course varied and infinite beauties ; sometimes her waters are wild and tumultuous, rushing headlong, as it were, into the sea ; at other times moving jubilant amid her thousand isles, then expanding into fair lakes and pleasant bays, and now and again sweeping past in her majesty large and populous cities, but, in her every mood, grand and beautiful. The boiders of the St. Lawrence river are full of interest, romantic and otherwise, for, on four separate occasions they have been the theatre of war between contending nations, first between the Algonqiiins and the Iroquois, two tribes of hostile Indians ; hav the dial size THE THOrSAXD ISLANDS. 269 ppoinUd vvn upon cers who Jtly bent irsion to thev are loveliesfr its forts lacl con- nclosinj;^ n by the metimes ench de- leauties? e failed, ave seen )eriences interest- ried and ultuous, movinj;" .ir lakes ; in her ^rand interest, ley have between ndians ; next, between the French and English, and twice between the English and Americans. The river was discovered by Jacques Cartier in 1535, on St. Lawrence day, hence the name. The first steamboat on the river was the Oneida in 1817. The first mention of the Thousand Islands was by Samuel Champlain, in 161 5. It is said that the name, ^''Millvs Isles,'' or Thousand Islands, was given by some French explorers about 1630. Since that time, poets have sung their praises, and novelists \ The Thousand Islands. have woven their charms into fiction. It is said that Tom Moore, the Irish poet, wrote on Hart's Island, Alexandria Hay, the "Cana- dian Boat Song," commencing — • " J-'ainlly as lolls the evening chimp, Our voices keep tunc, ami our oars keep time." We have now got fairly amongst the islands, which vary in size from ai; area containing m-my acres to that of a mere rock, 270 A TRIP TO AMERICA. with about sufTicient soli to feed a sing-le tree or a few green tufts of grass, a handful of violets or a few wild hyacinths. I felt anxious to approach nearer to them, and find repose and rest amid their silence .ind solitude. Within a few miles of the point we are now passing are thousands of places, rugged and solitary, among which a boat can glide si'ently, while its occupant may sit, happily indolent, and dreamily revelling in the pleasure of doingnothing There are scores of little bays, almost land-locked, where the fragrant odours of hemlock and pine fill the air, " and the whispers of nature's unseen life serve but to make the solitude more perceptible." At times the steamer runs so close to the islands that we might almost step on to the shore ; whilst right ahead of the vessel it seems as though further progress was impossible, when rounding the point amid widening passages and bays, the course is gradually opened before us. At our approach the seeming obstruction dis- appears as if by magic, and a hundred little isles appear in its place. Our trip to Alexan- dria Bay lasted for three hours, and for scenic effects and variety of picturesque views stands unri- valled in my experien- ces of travel. On The CrossMion Hotel. landing at the Bay, I went to the Crossmon Hotel, a fine structure ot five stories, surrounded by wide verandahs and traversed by spacious halls. It is charmingly situated, close to the river on the north, and from my bedroom window I had a most extensive and enchanting view of the river and the islands. After dinner I joined a party who were about to leave for a sail on the river in a small boat. It was now twilight, and the broad surface of the majestic stream, with its incomparable and picturesque islands, was unruffled. There was no sound save from the plash of the oars. We went in and out of the quiet and inviting little bays, past the gaily-painted boathouses, and the still more handsomely decorated villas perched on the emerald isles, surrounded in many instances by trees of rich foliage, but of stunted growth, many of which stand close to the water's Ci\^i.\ and will, during the heat of the day, afford coding shade to passing boatmen. ] THE THOISANO ISLANDS. 27 1 The shadows soon began to gather and shroud the foliage of the islands in a misty gloom, blending the isles with their reflection in the water, until the real and apparent can scarcely be distin- guished. The declining sun has kissed the clouds until they blush a rosy red. Twilight creeps on, catching the rosy tint ot the sky, and blending with it the green of the trees, until the distant colouring is hid from view. Nature is in one of her gentlest moods. The gloom deepens, and we are still rowing our frail boat amongst the rock-bound isles, some of which have towering clifls looming down upon us, and I begin to feel some anxiety lest we should make our trip, enjoyable as it was, too long for our safe return to the hotel. Passing up and down the stream are numerous steam yachts as if moved by supernatural means, so easily and so gracefully do they ride the water. Many of the island homes are Isle Royal, Thousand Isles. now lit up with diff"erent coloured lights, and an electric light some distance away is sending across the water its rays of brilliancy. "This archipelago," says an enthusiastic visitor, "is the ;-pot of all spots for the pleasure-seeker and admirer of the works of nature. Nowhere is the scenery more enchanting and picturesque. Nowhere are the breezes more invigorating. All summer resorts pale in comparison with the Thousand Islands, which are destined to be one of the greatest watering places on the face of the globe, not only for the scenery, but for the health-giving property of this majestic stream, and its excellent fishing grounds." It was too early in the season for me to see the islands at their best, when the summer night scenes at the Hay are said to be " weirdly enchanting, and European travellers say they remind them of the night scenes at \'enice, and are quite as beautiful. The illuminations extend far up and down the river on gliding 272 A TRIP TO AMERICA. yachts and steamers, on the islands, alonj^^ the grounds, and in the windows and towers of the hotels, and nightly displays of Chinese lanterns, Roman candles, rockets, and other fireworks." A maze of isles in wondrous l)eauty planned ; A thousand times the torrent laves a strand. Unnuml)cred channels — seeming each the way, Till trying all, the parted waters stray To murmur softly at each lovely shore That smiling bars the path, half lost before. Oh ! mighty river, all thine inland seas With all their marvels, boast not match for these Thick clustered beauties — as though haml had brought Kartli's fairest fragments to the common spot, Or Nature's richest chest of jewels rare Terchaace had fallen, burst and scattered there. Inlet to the Lake, Alex.indri.n P.iy. June Seventh. — Left Alexandria Bay at seven am., by lake steamer for Montreal, 170 miles, and now I was to have a still more novel experience, in the " Shooting of the Rapids," These are situated at dilTerc'it points on the route, and are known as the ••Gallops" (four), the " Mate," •' Depleau," "Long Sault," *' Coteau," " Cedars," and " Lachine." Before coming to the first of these, we pass through the most fashionable part of the Thousand Islands group. The suir.mer i-esidcnccs on these islets are elegant in style and of costly construction. The names of the THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 273 villas are painted upon sign-posts fixed near to the water's edge. " Eyrie," '« Bonnie Castle." " Devil's Oven," " Isle of Pines," *' Silver and Moss," and many other fanciful designations can be read as we sail ;ilong. The last of the islands are called " The Three Sisters," from their resemblance and proximity to each other. In leaving the fairy region behind us, and bidding it, as we hope, only a temporary good-bye, we would echo the words of a writer who had preceded us in a visit to these islands, and says of them : — '* Pleasant are the recollections of the place for all reasons ; pleasant as a centre of watering-place life ; pleasant for hours of fishing, and doubly pleasant— delightful— for hours of silent, solitary communion with nature in tranquil bays and spicy cedar woods^communion as uninterrupted as though we belonged to a difi'erent sphere than this earthly one of hurry and bustle ; a place of legend and romance, of old associations, an unfailing fountain of interest, both in itself and its surroundings." In such a place one can realise the striking expressiveness of one sentiment in Bailey's Fcsius : — Life, so varied, hath more loveliness In one brief day, than hath a creeping century 0[ sameness. Bidding adieu to the justly famed islands, with their enchant- ment of verdure and repose, we soon come in sight of the glitter- ing roofs and spires of the town of Brockville, called the " Queen City of the St. Lawrence," and certainl)', as seen from the vessel, it has a handsome appearance, having, in common with other Canadian cities, its church spires covered with a white metal, which retains its brightness in - remarkable degree, owing to the purity and dryness of the atmosphere. Soon after leaving Prescot, we get our first inkling ol the great feature of the trip, in the increase of the current, and anon the steamer enters the first rapid, which, however, excites no great amount of interest, except as a prelude to what is to follow. Fol- lowing the descent of the Gallops, another rapid is passed almost immediately, the Rapidc dc Plat. The descent of these is made under a full head of steam, and there is but little to indicate that we are not pursuing our smooth and even course until, passing Morrisburgh, we find that our speed has rapidly increased, and we are now nearing one of the fascinating events of the trip, the passage of the Long Sault Rapids. These extend for nine miles, divided in the centre by an island. These rapids rush along at the rate of twenty miles an hour, and as soon as we entered them the steam was shut off, and we were carried along by the force of the current alone. The water presents a beautiful appearance, as of the ocean in a storm, and the steamer, large as it is, labours and groans, and this going rapidly down hill by water, is, to say the T 274 A TRIP TO AMERICA. least, a ncvel sensation, with just a spice of danjj;"er. Some i 5 u c « •a 'a. as u a rt u s V u u Q After haif-an-hour's pleasurable excitement in the Long Sault Rapids, we enter lovely Lake St. Francis, and are in smooth water once more, and as we shall keep on in this course for the next twenty-five miles, I make an excellent lunch in tlie comfortable THE TMOL'SAN'D ISLANOS. 275 dining room of the boat. Cominj;- on deck otice more. I take my seat in the bow of the vessel, and await with somewhat excited feeling-s for the approaching of the more dangerous rapids. The first intimation of anything unusual was in running the " Cedars," where, at one point, the vessel appeared to stagger, and then as suddenly to settle down, as if our journey was ended, owing, I was 05 'a lilih'^' III': mA^ "I'h iiill- ' ^ ' |:i- "ii|i,'i: |i!!i;:; R' '::'''H'l ''I •™i' 'vS-ir llllpi;:,!,, "; ..'•'" ':■• ; ' l||ll >! Ir: ■il:.:::;- c o ui S3 c informed, to a fierce undercurrent catching us as we slide from one ledge of rock to another. It is said that there is no danger, but the sensation is, after all, more surprising than agreeable. We ^vci'^ no sooner out of this seeming danger than we encountered another in the passage of Split Rock, where it appeared as though we were about to strike thereon, when a turn of the wheel sent us safely past what, at one time, looked very like disaster. zy6 A TRIP TO AMERICA. About five p.m., we were in sight ot" what was to be the crowning exploit of the trip —the descent of the far-famed I.achiiie Rapids, situate nine miles from Montreal. Before reaching them, however, we pass the Indian village of Caughnawaga, with its miserable huts, lying on the south bank of the river, the village deriving its name from the converted Indians, who were called '* Caughnawaga," or praying Indians. This quaint old place was at one time the home of the once all-powerful Iroquois nation, and from here came the dusky warriors who have spread the fame of Canada's national game, Lacrosse, far and wide. Shortly after passing the village, we came in view of the magnificent new steel bridge, built by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, over the St. Lawrence. This is justly considered to be one of the engineer- ing triumphs of the century. It is about a mile long, and each of the channel spans is 408 feet in length, and lofty enough to allow the passage of large steamers. The cost of the bridge was over ;^200,000. We are now nearing the Rapids, which look extremely danger- ous, from the huge rocks which frown above the water, as well as from those which are arnbushed under the snowy foam. In a few minutes the steamer begins to pitch in a frantic manner, and the force of the wa'^er against the sides is terrible. From my position on the bow of the boat I have a clear view ahead, and am unable to discern a single point where it is likely a clear passage can be made, so numerous and so irregular are the rocks on every hand. The moment we entered the Rapids the steam was shut off, and the vessel left to the current and the care of the helmsman who had to steer us through the rolling, tumbling, maddened waves, which all around us were dashing over immense rocks, with but a narrow water-way for our passage to the calmer waters ahead. The passengers, who had gathered in the bow of the vessel, now held their breath while the final plunge was made, and then a sigh of relief escaped their lips as the interesting adventure came to an end. I enjoyed the experience immensely, and would willingly go all the distance from Yorkshire to Canada to spend a week in the Thousand Islands, and another hour on the St. Lawrence Rapids. For protracted grandeur of emotion, there is nothing in travel commensurate with a descent down the long Rapids of the St. Lawrence river. *' And we have passed he terrible La Chine, Have felt a fearless tremour through our .soul, As the huge waves uprearsd their cicsts of green, Holding our trembling bark in iheir control, As a strong eagle holds an oriole." After passing through the Rapids, we got into smooth wate^, and in half an hour v/e pass under the Victoria Bridge, another THE THOrSANO ISLANDS. 277 fTfreat engineering feat, which connects the Grand Trunk Railway with the Island of Montreal and the south shore of the St. Lawrence. The bridge is built of iron, on the tubular principle, with two long abutments and twenty-four pieces of solid masonry. Its length is two milrs, and the tube through which the railway lines are laid is twenty-two feet high and sixteen wide. T total cost of the structure was ;^ 1,420,000. On leaving the steamer, I took my seat in the St. Lawrence Hall 'bus, and found the accommodation at that hotel, during my stay in the city, thoroughly satisfactory. Chapter X\' MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. J^IINE Eighth. — On entering' the vestibule of the St. Lawrence Hall this morning, it was at once apparent that something serious was agitating the public mind. One name was on every person's lip, only to be spoken in whispers and with reverence. The common conversation was not of stocks or shares, of buying or selling, but of the demise of Canada's noblest son, her most distinguished citizen. The empire was weeping its departed statesman ; the nation mourning a nation's hero. Sir John Macdonald was dead: the "Father of his country," as he was now designated. In driving about the city I saw everywhere signs of mourning' and sorrow. Scores of Canadian ensigns were fluttering', half-mast high, upon the ships in the harbour, and upon the Parliament and most of the other public buildings, whilst mourning emblems were noticeable in every direction ; and the sole topic of conver- sation was about the great and irreparable loss the country had sustained. The difference of political opinion, that must ever exist where representative government is established, was forgotten for the time, and Conservative and Liberal alike w-ere ready to say something good of the great statesman who had been removed. My first visit in the city was made to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, built after its namesake in Paris. It is a noble building, and the largest edifice of the kind in America, except the Cathedral of Mexico. It has two towers, each 227 feet in height, and a peal of eleven bells. I ascended the western tower by means of the elevator, and saw the great bell, the " Gros Bourdon," one of the five heaviest bells in the world : it weighs 24,780 lbs., is six feet high, and at its mouth measures 8 feet 7 inches in diameter. The view from the tower is varied, extensive, and picturesque, embrac- ing the blue hills of Vermont; a magnificent plain stretchingfor many miles on either hand, covered with cultivated farms ; the beautiful river St. Lawrence, nearly two miles wide, crossed by the tubular MONTRKAI. .\NI> tJlUBEC 279 bridj^e, stretching away like a silver thread in the far off distance The church is 253 feet lon^ and 135 broad, and cost ;^2oo,ooo. I walked round the interior, which is decorated in a most elaborate manner, the hif^h altar beinj,' especially fine. The j^round floor is covered with pews capable of seating 10,000 persons, and the ffallcry will hold 3,000 more. The square in which the church stands is called the Place d'Armes, and is the orij^nnal " Ciod's Acre," where the first pioneers were buried ; then it became the ^•reat square of the walled city ; and is now a handsome railed enclosure, brig-ht w ith shrubs and flowers, surrounding a tasteful fountain. . atanai ... MIUBkMftlHiKU Public Buildings, Montreal. From the cathedral I went with a Yorkshire friend for a drive through the city to the summit of Mont Royal. We saw every- where indications that Montreal is a busy and prosperous place, in a fine situation, and with every prospect that it will attain still further greatness in the future. The city stands on an island at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence rivers, the latter having a width of one mile and a half opposite the city, and its whole river front lined with substantial ciuays of grey limestone, said to be unequalled elsewhere, except at Liverpool and Paris. The population is divided into French and Fnglish speaking a8o A TRIP TO AMERICA. peoples, the former occupyinj,' the east of Main Street, the principal thoroughfare, and the latter the western portion. The English section is not :;o j^-reat in numbers as the Scotch; the south-western portion is occupied almost exclusively by the Irish. We called at the lionesecours Market, and the quaint old Bonesecours Church, the Court Mouse, the City Hall, St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral, and the Church of the Jesuits. Wc saw also many other fine public buildings, such as the banks, post ofTice, colleges, hospitals, etc., all giving the impression of solidity and permanence. The upper part of the city is very attractive ; the streets are wide ; the squares arc neatly laid out and well kept; the houses well-built, large, and commodious, generally of grayish- blue limestone, roofed in many instances with tin and sheet-iron, which, glittering in the sun, give them a somewhat imposing appearance. We continued our drive to Mont Royal, passing the Kxhibition buildings, along the dusty roads, bordered by gardens and orna- mental enclosures, till we entered the park, which is, in the language of Lord Dutt'erin, " the finest park in the world." The Mountain Park was planned by Mr. Olmsted, the designer of Central Park, New York. " The view from Mount Royal is very beautiful. Suddenly, after i*n easy ascent by a winding road, we are looking forth on the city with its spires, its gardens, and avenues ; beyond is the broad flowing St. Lawrence, with the Victoria Bridge and the Lachine Rapids just visible in the distance ; fading away toward the horizon are the hills of Vermont, many miles away. The drive round the mountain is one which it would be difiicult, for natural beauty, to surpass. On a clear day the view is magnificent ; several hundred feet below is spread out a gorgeous panorama of ever-varying beauty, aflfording commanding ard attractive views of the Canadian metropolis and the great river of the north. Well-stocked and highly cultivated farms, comfortable homesteads, nestling 'mid a luxurious growth, dot the landscape ; here and there broad belts of forest shade the view ; looming up, faintly shadowed in the distance, the far off hills of Vermont rear their summits, while, winding through the valley, the majestic St. Lawrence flows onward to the sea " We returned by the east side of the mountain, through the Mont Royal Cemetery. On entering from the highest point in the grounds the eye ranges over a most enchanting picture of rural scenery; behind us is the mountain park, clothed with its primeval forest, whilst immediately below lies the most finished and beautiful portion of the cemetery, with its numerous costly granite and marble monuments, or more humble stone tablets. Trees are here, growing in all their natural wildness, and their deep shadows spread a refreshing coolness around, which, on this scorching day, is doubly agreeable. This resting-place of the Pre bei fav ccn Ok ing MONTREAL AND yiEUEl 281 of Prot beauti fav ou ccme Old ing X i-- llftfiwl'^ Li I' --Jt^. ^ . . s:^x TN mountain side, which are hewn out of the solid rock, and from which the Az^^- ; ' i i n h abitants V ' l^'ij ^"^^ draw thei r ^(1^^^) ^>- daily supply ^..^^^y^' of forty million -^-v,^?jp:^d»^g^^tjy^vg»-pv; ../.^.ji^At^ci^gr'i'^y-^'i^r'S'^jrsgTrsrir-^ s'^3"5nie^^F:^i:^jy Chapter XVI. LAKE GEORGE AND SARATOGA. UNE Tenth. — Left Montreal at 7.30 a.m. for Saratoga, via Lake George. The first part of the journey was by rail to Rouse's Point, 50 miles. I am still in the province of Quebec, and midway between Montreal and Rouse's Point, we pass St. John's, with its grass-grown fortifications and ancient houses, telling in their archi- 3^ tecture of Colonial times, and in their thick, low walls, * diminutive windows, and high-pitched roof betokening provision against the rigou/s of the Canadian winter. From Rouse's Point the railway skirts the shore of Lake Champlain, which comes into view at many points before we reach Baldwin. Here we take the boat on Lake George, for a sail on this matchless sheet of water, 33 miles long, and from i to 4 n/iles wide, sometimes called the "American Loch Katrine," and at other times designated the " Como of America." It is considered to be the finest of all American lakes, and it is also historically interesting as having been the scene of many encounters in the frontier wars of Colonial times. All this country was the land of the Mohicans, and from it Cooper drew the stirring pictures in his tale of the " Last of the Mohicans." Lake George is embowered among high hills — a dazzling mirror set in the midst of cliffs and forest-clad mountains, whose rugged sides have their wild features reflected in its clear water. Its scenery is unique, in that it combines the soft and gentle with the bold, picturesque, and magnificent. The lake is divided by clusters of islets, so as to give the impression of a series of lakes, five in number. George Bancroft, the historian, says of it, k< Peacefully rest the waters of Lake George between their ramparts of highlands. In their pellucid depth the cliffs and the hills and the trees trace their images, and the beautiful region speaks to the heart, teaching affection for nature." 292 A TRIP TO AMERICA. Soon after lcavin<^ Baldwin wc pass Prisoner's Island, where the English kept the prisoners taken in the Colonial wars, and beyond this is a point of land which projects into the water on the western side, and is called Sabbath Day Point. " Here Aber- crombie, who was commander-in-chief of all the British forces in North America, mustered an army of 15,000 men, in 1758, to attack Fort Carillon. He advanced up the lake in a g-rand flotilla of 1,000 boats, and upon a Sunday morning landed at this point to rest and refresh his forces before making the attack." We are now approaching the most picturesque part of the lake, and are nearing the islands, which the boatmen count by the days of the year, and speak of three hundred and sixty-five. The hills now extend far into the water, and it becomes the "Narrows," whilst around the Black Mountain, the highest of the peaks, are the boldest portions of the banks of the lake. Here, the space between the banks is crowded with islands, reminding one of the bewitching scenery of the Thousand Islands, of which it is a miniature reproduction. No pleasanter vision can meet the eye than is afforded by the charming intricacies of an island-studded lake. It is a series of enchanting surprises, an ever-changing vision of beauty, made still more beautiful by gleams of light and shadow that are positively delightful. " For a moment the islands may sleep under the cloud-shadow, and then the sun breaks brightly over them ; they present a foreground of rough rocks, or of pebble ixud shingle-covered beach, or an Arcadian bower of rustic beauty, while the scene is filled up with the spreading waters and the distance tinted hills." On the shore is to be seen Shelving Rock, a semicircle of lofty palisades, above which towers the bold, prominent, and ever- visible object in the trip, — Black Mountain, to a height of nearly 3,000 feet. We can also discern the many summer hotels, which are built upon Green Island and on other favourite positions along the shores of the lake. The steamer now rounds in at Bolton, a small village with a grand outlook over the broadest expanse of the water. We were a merry party, some thirty in number, on the deck of that little steam-boat, on that lovely, blue day, and enjoyed immensely the view of these pleasant and peaceful waters from the bow of the vessel. We had with us two or three newly- married couples, whose choice of scenery amongst which to spend a portion ot their honeymoon we could not but approve, though at times it seemed as if even the beauties of this enchanting region were neglected by them for more personal and commonplace forms of recreation ; yet their happiness seemed complete, from whichever source it was derived, and they expressed their deep regret at the brevity of the day's enjoyment, as I bid them good-bye and wished them much happiness in their new start in life. LAKF. GEORGE ANO SARATOGA. 293 After a three hours' sail on this lovely lake to Fort William Ilcnry Hotel, at its head, we saw its wide piazza crowded with people, and the railway station close by, also full of life and animation, for this is a centre of travel for hundreds of visitors who come to get a touch of nature in its most beautiful and win- some aspects. I'Vom Caldwell our landing place to Saratotjfa, is a railway journey of thirty miles, throui,^h a fertile and prosperous portion of the State. We now reach the Harroi^ate of America, with much in it to remind one of our fine inland Yorkshire watering- place. It is not a large town, but, so far as 1 could see, intensely fashion- able, and merits its title of " Queen of American Spa Resorts." I was much pleased with my walk through the streets, which revealed on every hand that all had been done that wealth or taste could accomplish to make Saratoga worthy of its premier desig- nation ; one feature being the great number of large and luxurious hotels, which pro\ido accommodation for 20,000 people, and during the busy part of the season are said to be taxed to their very utmost. I went into the United States Hotel, which has a frontage of 600 feet and a depth of 240 feet, the accommodation being equal to 1,500 guests at one time ; and yet this provision is excelled by newer hotels, which had not opened their doors for the season when I was in the town. Besides these large places there are many large and handsome boarding houses, as well as several commodious hydropathic establishments. I went into the valley and saw the Springs which have gained for the place its popularity, and around which the settlement is clus- tered. Crossing the valley is Broadway, the main street, 150 feet wide and two miles long, bordered in its entire length by magnificent forest trees, chiefly grand old elms, whose ample and luxurious foliage fenced off the burning rays of the noon-day sun. On this street is the Grfjid Union Hotel, which was in the possession of the decorators, who were busy painting and garnishing the prem- ises, read}' for the season which would commence a few days after my departure. This building is 800 feet long, has broad piazzas on three of its sides, and is the largest witering-place hotel in the world; receiving no guest for less than a guinea a day. A park and garden are part of its attractions, and a fountain and a band play for the delectation of the hundreds of onlookers seated on the piazzas. I saw into the dining-room of the hotel, a most sumptuously decorated apartment, 60 feet by 275 feet. The ball-room and other large apartments were all on a similar scale of immensity and splendour. The Springs of Saratoga are reckoned amongst the natural curiosities of the world. There are 28 within the town limits, no two of which are exactly alike in their composition. Some of them are chalybeate, others sulphurous, and all are highly charged with 294 A TRIP TO AMERKA. carbonic acid g^as. I tried the Conijrcss Sprinj,' water, a muriatcd saline with a temperature of 50' Fahrenheit, and I found it nearly tasteless and but little dilTerent from ordinary sod-.i water. 1 had intended to have tasted the (Icyser Sprint; , but it was not " on tap." This water is so hi^Hily charg'ed with carbonic acid ^as that when drawn it foams like soda water. Judging from the appearance of the visitors that I saw in my walks, I should imaj^^ine that the waters are not the greatest attraction, but rather a desire to see and be seen, to enjoy the "life," and to have a "real s^-ood time." Music, promenade, driving, and gossip are the leading features of the daily life of «\'VuW Saratoga. Saratoga, and the rule of the place is said to be that " every one may do as he pleases so long as he is not interfering with others." I saw during my brief visit a wonderful display of fashion, beauty, and wealth, in the cosmopolitan throng which had already assembled at the Springs, and I saw how fully the days are given up to ease and amusement and the nights to mirth and pleasure. I also saw one of the great gatherings for which Saratoga is famous, for the American Sunday School Convention was in session for a week, and the delegates were to be seen everywhere, between the exercises, — in the streets, at the rooms of the Y. M. C. Association, and other public places of resort. I had several invitations to attend the evening conference, but I preferred the cool atmosphere i.AKr: r.F.oROE and Saratoga. 295 and the ^avcr life of the streets to a crowded assenibhi^e in a meeting house. It is said that there is notliin^ an American loves so much as to belong to some association that has an excuse for holding' an annual ^atherin^ in some attractive centre. It is further said that " whenever in any part oi' the world half a dozen Americans happen to meet, they forthwith proceed to hold a convention " ; and Saratoj^a is a favourite rendezvous for these assemblies. Lawyers, bankers, physicians, railway manag'ers, scientists, etc., have yearly ^atherinsjf: in this town. " Saratoga," says G. W. Curtis, " is a place for pleasure. It is our pleasant social exchang-e. There we step out of the worn and weary ruts of city society, and mingfle in a broad field of various acquaintance. There, too, men mingle and learn from contact and sympathy a sweeter temper and a more Catholic consideration, so that the summer flowers we went to wreathe may prove not the garland of an hour, but the firmly linked chain of an enduring union." 1 retired to rest this night at the close of a d«ay which will live in my memory ; but when morning comes I must away, for " To-morrow, to fresh fields ami pastures new." Chapter XVII. THE HUDSON RIVER. f^UXE Eleventh. — I sliould have much enjoyed a long^er stay at the favourite wateriiii^'-phice of Saratoga, but being' due in New York this evening, I took the early !^->-^ morning train to Albany, 30 miles, the journey being ^'f^ very uninteresting. Getting on board the large steamboat, !^ I had a fine view of the city, its wharves, warehouses, ^ public buildings, and churches, rising terrace above terrace V up to the Capitol. We commenced our trip down this noted river, but for some distance the scenery was monotonous, and gave no promise of the beauties which were to be unfolded. As we pass Coeyman's, we get a glimpse of the Ileldeberg Mountains, and on the west shore Beeven Island, on whose rock\- summit once stood the Castle Renselaerstcin, and the next most important station we pass is Hudson, with the Catskill Mountains looming ahead, grey in the distance. These lend a great charm to this part of the Hudson ; lying back five or six miles from the river, they run nearly parallel with it for about 25 miles. It was at Sleepy Hollow, in this region, that Rip Van Winkle had his famous sK p. It was amongst this glorious scenery that Cole, the artist, 1 ved and painted some of his most celebrated works. As we were nearing Hudson City, my attention was cnlled to a peculiar phenomenon in connection with the Catskills, wliich here present the appearance of a giant lying t-n his back. All the features of foreliead, nose, mouth, chin, breast, and knees are distinctly visible. From the vessel, as we approach Hudson, we can see the red lighthouse of Chaney Tinker, mounted on its crag, rising oxer ico feet above the river. To the southward is Mount Merino, adding a new charm to the view, the hill being cultivated to its summit. W'e are now at the head o[' ship na\igatiiin on the ri\-er, and it was at this point that llendiick Hudson, who gave his name to the stream, dropped the anchor of his yacht //', 298 A TRIP TO AMERICA. 20th of September, 1699, when he first explored it, the sandbanks above hindering further explorations. A screen island fronts Hudson, and opposite is Athens, a small but thriving- place. This little town of Hudson once owned more ships and had a greater commerce than New York. As we move below Catskill, the mountains appear in all their grandeur, spread- ing behind the western bank, the highest peak rising 4,000 feet. Upon the tops of the mountains, right at the edge, are planted two or three great summer hotels, with chain cables to anchor them in the high winds. The principal hotel is the Kaaterskill, crowning the summit just at its eastern verge, 3,000 feet high. Nearly ;£.'200,ooo has been expended on this gigantic establishment, with its immense park of mountain tops and gorges covering several square miles. On the eastern shore of the river, we now come upon a suc- cession of handsome residences, extending for more than thirty miles, the estates belonging to the descendants of the historic families of Astor, Livingstone, De Peystcrs, and others. The Livingstones were of the family of the Earls of Linlithgow of Scotland, and went from that country in the seventeenth century. One of the name, by exchange with the Indians, got extensive tracts of land, and in 17 10 obtained other lands, which were all combined under one patent from the Crown, which gave him 162,000 acres for " an annual rent of 28s. lawful money of New York," equal to 15s. sterling. Seventy-five miles from New York is the town of Pough- keepsie, well known as the residence of Professor Morse, the electrician ; also, as the " Queen City of the Hudson," and further, as the site for the School where the great modern experiment of higher education for women is being carried on in Vassar College, the gift of the late Matthew Vassar, who has expended upon it ;^200,ooo, of which nearly half the amount was spent upon the building. The College h.^s several hundreds of female students, and has already sent out a large body of graduates. We are now approaching the Highlands, a mass of mountains covering a surface of twenty miles, and respectively known as the Highlands, Anthony's Nose, Sugar Loaf Mountain, Crow Nest, and the Storm King. As we pass these, every few minutes of our sailing opens up some fresh scene of beauty or of wonder. We get a fine view of Newburgh, a busy city of over 17,000 inhabi- tants, built upon a series of '^rraccs on the slope of the hill. In this district, and fully exposed to the gaze of the tourist, is West Point, where stands the renowned J\Iilitary Academy, in which many of the most able ofiicers of the American Army have received their training. The discipline and examinations are very severe, and none but clexer youths can hope to become qualified for the higher posts in military service. A very prominent element at vi< pi( nu we wc kn an THE HUDSON RIVER. 299 at West Point is said to be the large number of youngf ladies who visit it, and the life of the cadets is made joyous by innunurable picnics and eveninj^ parties. We saw some proofs of this in the number of happy-looking couples who were at the landing--stage, as 3 •a c we stopped to set down and take up passengers, and whose ranks were added to by fresh recruits from the neighbouring pathway, known as " Flirtation Walk," a favourite promen;ide of the cadols and their sweethearts for many generations. II 300 A TRIP TO AMERICA. I At Peekshill we bid good-bye to the Highlands, and at this point the river passage has narrowed until it is barely 600 yards wide, and broadens again at Haverstraw Bay, where the spurs of the Highlands disappear to the westward. We soon reach Sing- Sing, the State Prison, where 1,600 convicts are usually employed in the marble and limestone quarries, who are carefully guarded by sentinels and patrols. On the eastern shore of the river is Tarry- town, where Washington Irving is buried. " Sleepy Hollow " is between this town and Irvington, just below. When passing the last-named place, we saw the splendid white stone villa on a lofty eminence, with most attractive surroundings, which is the summer home of Jay Gould, the millionaire. He goes from here to his duties in New York in his beautiful yacht, which brings him back in the evening to this lovely retreat. The river now widens into lagoons and lakes, sometimes two miles in width between the banks. We now reach the Palisades, so called from their columnar formation, not unlike the amphitheatres surrounding the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. These extraordinary rocks rise from 300 to 500 feet, and extend for nearly twenty miles along the river bank. The opposite shore of the Hudson is a con- tinuous line of villas and fashionable resorts of the New York citizens, who come out here to get rest and recuperation after the season's dissipation. Many of the homes are of a very costly kind, and immense fortunes have been spent upon their construc- tion, elaborate decoration, and their ornamental grounds. Many of these mansions are unicjue in their architecture, being built to represent palaces, churches, castles, old manor-houses, and other fanciful places. They form a very picturesque panorama, some being almost lost among the trees, others overhanging the water, and others perched high up on the slopes. In the midst of a galaxy of these castellated dwellings is Yonkers, where an ampliitheatre of hills surrounds a flat depres- sion, where the town is built. It was here, in 1850, that Edwin Forrest, the tragedian, built his home, with moat and drawbridge, but sold it subsequently to the Sisters of Charity, who converted it into the Convent of Mount St. Vincent. We now approach New York city, and are nearing the termi- nation of this delightful trip, which must be reckoned as a glorious finish to my six thousand miles of travel in this wonderful country. I cannot say that the Hudson rivals the Rhine in the scenery on its banks, but in other respects it far surpasses it. The glory of the Rhine is concentrated in a comparatively short stretch of the water, but in the Hudson the beauties are ever present for neijrly all the length of the river. I can fully endorse the comparison between the two streams given by G. W. Curtis in his Lotus Leaves', — "The spacious and stately character of the Hudson, from the Palisades to ihe Catskills, are as epical as the loveliness \ THE HUDSON RIVER. J Ot I <►; I of the Rhine Is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. For vineyards it has forests. For a belt of water, a majestic stream. For graceful and grain-goldened heights it has imposing mountains. There is no littleness about the Hudson, but there is in the Rhine. Here everything is boldly touched. What lucid and penetrant lights, what broad and sober shadows ! The river moistens the feet, and the clouds anoint the heads, of regal hills. The Danube has, in parts, glimpses of such grandeur. The Elbe has sometimes such delicately pencilled effects. But no European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state, to the sea. Of all our rivers that I know, the Hudson, with this grandeur, has the most exquisite episodes. Its morning and evening reaches are like the lakes of dreams." June Twelfth to Seventeenth. — I spent my last few days in the States with my friend Mr. Carleton, in Brooklyn, with occasional visits to New York, but these latter were made under exceptionally trying circumstances, for the weather was a record- breaker, and not since the Signal Service began to take ofiicial note of the different kinds of weather which visit New York in the course of a year, had there been such a hot week in June as the present one. " Not in the archives of the Service is there to be found the history of a i6th of June which can compare in thermo- metrical achievement with the i6th of June, 1891. Apollo showered sun darts on Manhattan Island fiercer than those which melted the wax wings of Icarus when that misguided youth flew within easy range. If Icarus had been a New-Yorker and had shown oft' his wings yesterday in the Broadway parade, they would have melted before he had a chance to fly from the sidewalk. Arid when Apollo had had his turn, Jupiter, with thunder and lightning and rain, ushered in a cool evening. Altogether it was a day to be remem- bered, whatever the explanation of it— playfulness in Olympus, or the McKinley bill ; the new spots on the sun, or Sergeant Dunn's cold, calm, matter-of-fact : ' Due to a high pressure off the South Atlantic coast and a very low pressure in the Lake regions.'" Many persons were prostrated by the intense heat, and four deaths from sunstroke happened in Brooklyn the day before I left the city, in one instance the person becoming in a few minutes after being struci<, a raving maniac. Humane teamsters and truckmen tixed fancy little awnings to the headgear of their horses, while others screened the animals' heads with leafy sprigs cut from trees. When in New York I called at the Century oflice to see Dr. Palmer, one of the editors of the Century Dicfi)iiary, a gentleman of great literary ability, who has shown me many kindnesses, and whose friendship I value very highly. He received me very kindly, and would fain have shown me other courtesies, if climatic influ- ences had been favourable to their acceptance. The home of the %c?, A TRIP TO AMERICA. r Century publications, in Union Square, is a tasteful and commodi- ous buildingf, equal to the requirements of a monthly whose circu- lation exceeds a quarter of a million cop-'^'i- The offices, in one of the upper stories of the lofty building-, are beautifully fitted, and adorned with the original drawings of some of the illustrations used in the magazine. The editorial rooms are handsomely decorated, and everything about them speaks of refinement, artistic culture, and success. Dr. Palmer is a writer of delightful sketches of Oriental life, which are exceedingly spirited, faithful, and picturesque studies, and the accuracy of his descriptions are vouched for by all Eastern : i The Produce Exchange, New York. travellers. During the Civil War he was warmly attached to the South, and served it in several capacities. Under the noni dc plume of John Coventry he has recently published a novel, "After His Kind," of which a critic says: "The quaint idyllic grace of the writer is beyond praise, and the description of the mellow, rounded beauty of English midland scenery is but one of the i-iany manifold charms of the book." Whilst in New York, I also visited the Produce Exchange, in order to obtain a view of the city from its to\ver. This building is of red brick and terra-cotta, with a frontai /^ of 30*/ fc3t and a depth of 150 feet, and a clock tower at the easterly en',1, which 1 TllF. HUDSON RtVEk, 5^>3 Itl \ I assumes the i^encral form of an Italian Campanile and is 200 feet in height. The building' atTords oHlce ri)om tor 200 firms. In Brooklyn I visited, in company with Mr. Carlcton, the Baptist Home, which exists to '• provide support, employment, medical treatment, religious and church privileges, to inlum and needy members of the Long Island Baptist Association." This is but one of many similar institutions in the country, connected with nearly all the religious organisations of the land, and it is much to their credit that such " homes " are so plentiful and so well supported. This we are visiting provides more than a shelter for some fifty deserving persons of both sexes, who here find a " home " for the remainder of their days without the feeling of being paupers. I had a talk with the old ladies, several of whom were the widows of English ministers who had settled in the States. They had many questions to ask about the Old Country, and I quite appreciated their conversation, and was also delighted to see how thoroughly they enjoyed the recitations of my friend, who entertained them for an hour, to their infinite delight. I left the institution very much impressed with the Jiome-likc character of the place, and the gentle care and thoughtfulness for the welfare of the inmates everywhere observable. Free from care and anxiety these old ladies and gentlemen go down the hill of life as pleasantly as if they had plenty of money, and, so far as I could see, cheerful, contented, and certainly chatty, awaiting with serenity the final change. We also visited the Home for Consumptives, another excellent charity for " providing a comfortable home for invalids, and especially for consumptives." Brooklyn is a city of nianitold charities, and this is one of the best of them, and appeals tor support on the ground that " no one can tell when the warmth that a generous heart casts around it stops ; one might as well attempt to measure a sunbeam." This Home is well cared for by thoughtful friends, and I was informed that scarcely a day passes that the inmates are not the recipients of some good thing, either fruit, flowers, books, or clothing. One of my las evenings in the country was devoted to a \ isit to William Winter, the poet and critic, and a valued correspondent of many years standing. This charming writer, whose word pictures of English scenery are not excelled by those of any other writer, lives in a delightful villa at Tompkinsville, on Staten Island. I found the poet in the midst of his family and books, and was intro- duced to his study, a small room at the top of the house, enjoying a magnificent view of the bay of New York. The room is devoid ot ornament, its furniture is simple, and the bookcases are of the plainest sort. The shelves are stored with many volumes dealing with the drama from every point of view, and in this small and cosy room he has written his poems and those books of travel k i tf, 304 A TRIP TO AMERICA. which interpret the "august memories and venerable sanctities'' of the Old Country in a most captivating- manner. His chapters on •' Shakespeare's England " are unique, and the William Winter, Poet and Critic. Saturday Review justly said of them that " in the whole literature of the subject we can recall no more brilliant picture than the present, so sharp and vivid are the impressions." His pra'^e of a THE HUDSON RIVER. 305 M the 01 i Country is the praise of a refined and cultured imag^ina- tion. John Strange Winter says of Mr. Winter's books : " They are all exquisite!}' written, dainty and delicate to a degree, and breathing a passionate, and yet subdued tenderness from the heart of a son of the New Country over the historic associations of the Old." In this quiet retreat, overlooking the river, Mr. Winter has a complete immunity from noise and interruptions of every kind. The lower rooms of the poet's dwelling are fu>"nishcd with much taste, and there is a peculiarly home feeling about them, and the literary treasures which are scattered about everywhere, lend an additional attraction to the house. Mr. Winter has been on the staff of the Tribune for the last quarter of a century as dramatic critic, and during that time has, in connection with this and other literary work, come in contact with the best men and women of his time. This visit to one who has won for himself so proud a position in the literary world will ever remain with me a pleasant memory. Chapter XVIII. «£? THE JOURNEY HOME. >ft >o!;^ ^UNE Seventeenth. — Having made a few parting calls y^ upon friends in New York, and taken lunch with Dr. Collyer at the Century Club, I went by the Elevated Railway to the pier of the White Star Line, for the return journey to England by the steamship Majestic^-'' ^ which in April had brought me safely to the New World. ^ On arriving at the pier, I found myself in the midst of a y multitude of persons, two thousand strong at least, of both sexes and all ages, who had come to take leave of departing friends, and wish them hon voyage. The Majestic, herself, large as she is, was crowded in every part by a noisy and inquisitive throng, whose incessant chatter was not always appreciated by the officers of the ship, who had much difficulty in giving out their orders on account of the noise and contusion. Much astonishment was evinced by those visitors who had not previously seen the excellent accommodation and complete appointments of this last addition to the magnificent fleet of White Star steamers. The tables in the saloon of the vessel were literally loaded with flowers, the parting gifts of the friends of the passengers, and when I reached my '* state room," some kind friend had been there before me, and placed in it a lovely basket of roses, which was duly appreciated by the recipient of the friendly token. At a few minutes to 2 p.m., the vessel was cleared of all but actual pas- sengers, and punctually at the hour the ship moved gracefully out of the dock, and as I could now move freely about, and look around me, I saw that every available place on the pier and in the * I would here correct one or two slight errors which have crept into my account of the outward voyage. First. The saloon of the Majestic being placed exactly amidships, there is no inconvenience whatever arising from the screw, which is not near the saloon. Second. The number of furnaces in the Majestic is 76, and not i:|6, as stated, though the last named figures were given to me on the vessel at the time of my inspection. THE VOYAGE HOME. 307 oaded rs, and there h was a few d pas- lly out look in the into my placed , which and not at the landing-place, was occupied by an immense gathering- of interested lookers-on, who, when we were fairly started, cheered us again and again, and this was continued as long as we remained in sight. We were soon out at sea, with a gentle breeze, a brilliant sim, and a cloudless sky. The passage was fairly calm and uneventful, except, indeed, that we lost one of the passengers by death on Ihe fifth day out, and brought him on to Liverpool, there to be met by sorrowing relatives. Beyond this sad episode, nothing occurred of special interest until the early morning of the last day of the voyage, when, at 2 a.m., the harbour of Queenstown was reached, and as it was impossible for me to sleep with the noise and racket overhead, I got up and went on deck to see the mails put on the tender, and also the departure of 150 of the passengers, who were leaving us at this port. Many of the latter were Irish girls, who were on a visit to their parents in the Old Country. These fine- looking specimens of the women of the Emerald Isle were engaged as servants in the States, and taking advantage of the absence of their employers during the hot months of July and August, were coming to spend a few weeks in the old cabins in Ireland. The scene at this early hour was picturesque in the extreme, the electric light shining down on faces lit up with excitement and curiosity. There were many leave-takings of a most aff"ectionate nature by those pretty American girls who were on their first visit to Europe, and who, making Ireland the starting point of their tour, were taking leave of their friends who were bound for Liver- pool ; but it was understood that they would meet again, say, at Paris, Interlachen, Rome, or Naples ; and I quite enjoyed this scene, listening to the shrill, nasal American accent, and the curious, quaint American phrases, all under the cold electric light, in this lonely spot of ocean. It was the first breaking up of what one almost felt to have become a family party. The mails, which had been heaped up on the deck during the night, were now shouldered and carried down the gangway on to the tender, and it was a weird sound that fell upon the ear, as the " eight, nine, tally " of the officer was constantly repea od, amongst all the shrill and querulous An erican voices. The next event of importance was taking place in the saloon, where letters and tele- grams, brought from Queenstown by the tender, were being over- hauled by many anxious passengers, who had remaintJ up all night, or had risen on hearing the commotion which was going on upon deck. June Twenty-fourth. — At breakfast this morning everyone was wearing a smiling countenance, and the many Americans on board who were on their first pleasure trip to the Old World, looked as happy as school boys at a breaking-up. For six days they had been living on anticipation, and many of them on very little else, and now everything is new, and strange, and pleasant. 3o8 A TRIP TO AMERICA. So soon as we got into the Mersey, their joy became unconfined, and they commenced to give their impressions of the country as seen from the vessel. They were full of enthusiasm and curiosity, and admiration, which I "guess" would have subsided a little by the time they had seen Mont Blanc, Milan Cathedral, the Colosseum, the Alhambra, the Pyramids, the Bon March6 and the Louvre in Paris, and the time has come when they will again be crossing the ferry. In the afternoon we came to the estuary of the Mersey, and to the broad ridge of sand known as "the Bar," which seriously interferes with the navigation of the river. Before reaching this place we had to put on extra speed in order to cross the Bar before the tide went down, which if we had failed to do, would have caused us a delay of some hours. Vessels like the Majestic cannot go over the Bar except for a couple of hours before and after high water, and if we had not seized this favourable opportunity we should have had to " lie to" until the tide had risen sufficiently to allow us to cross. This bar is a great obstruction to the naviga- tion of the river, and an effort is now being made to remove it. After less than a year's work, upwards of 350,000 tons of sand have been removed. "The original estimate was that the removal of 800,000 tons of material would, provided there was no re-deposit, effect a deepening of 6 feet 6 inches below the shallowest depth then found, viz., 11 feet below low water spring tides, for a length of channel of 3,000 feet, with a width of 1,000 feet. The amount removed up to date, viz., 350,000, is equal to seven-sixteenths of this whole quantity. Comparing the most recent soundings with those taken at the commencement of the operations, it is noted that in the immediate proximity of the line on which the dredging is proceeding there were originally several soundings showing a minimum depth of 11 feet below low-water spring tides, whereas at the present time the shallowest soundings in the immediate proximity of the line show depths of 13 feet and 15 feet below the same " datum," the deepest soundings being some 300 feet north- ward of the leading line, where depths of 15 feet and 16 feet are indicated." It is now 4 p.m , and we embark on board the tender which has come alongside the vessel, and in a few minutes we are once more in communication with home, and at the place where our ocean voyage ends. FI/NIS, }^^m ^^r^«^^^H fl^A^Fj^^^^^^^^^ i^ GKNERAL INDEX. Compilei by the Author. Abbey, Westminster, 27, 59, 103 Abercrombie, 292 Fort, 210 AberJeen, 205 Adams, John, 72 John Quincey, 72 Samuel, 98 Adclinghani, 42 Africa, 79 Agazzis, 106 Ages, Ihe Middle, 12 Albany, 248, 257 Alexandria, Va., loi 13ay, i.67, 26 Alexandria, 186 Alps, The, 72, 246 AUoona, 173, 193 America, South, 79 Amsterdam, Fort, 30 Andover, Mass., 127 Andros, Governor, 150 Antiquities, American, 44 Cesnola, 44 Egyptian, 44 Arbor, Ann. 225 Army, American, 19 Asylum, State, 251 Athens, 30 Atherton, 1 38 Atlantic, The, 4, 5, 223, 2S2 Auchmuty, Dr., 28 Aron, 14 J B. Baltimore, 179 Exchange, 181 Hall, City, 182 Institute, 181 Monuments, 181 Park, 182 Bancroft, George, 135, 291 Bargs, John Kendrick, 68 Barnum, 31, 155 15artholdi, 18 Batavia, 250 Bates, Mr., 75 Battle, Lexington, 98 Bazaar ^ Harper's, 57 Bays— Chesapeake, 180, 186 Gowann's, 19 ^Massachusetts, 72 Rio Janeiio, 17 Sandusky, 230 Beecher, lie iry Ward, 58,59, 151 J5ell, Professor A. G., 96 Beimont, 178 Bertram, Capt. John, 92 Beverley, 93 Birch, Jackie, 42 Birthplace, Hawthorne's, 83, 84. Bishop Bridget, 92 Blackpool, 60 Blade, The Toledo, 50, 230 Bland, Mrs,, 42 Blaine, Secretary, 190 Blake, Mary Eliz., 108 Blubberhouses, 41 Bombay, 14, 79 Bonnelle, Frank J., 108 Boston, 4, 68, 70, 72, 78, loi, 19S Advertiser, The^ 107 Asylum, Insane, 96 Avenue, Commonwealth, 103 Chapel, King's, 98 Church, Old South, 98 Church, Park Street, 74 Church, Trinity, 100 Common, 73, 89 Elm, Old, 73 Garden, Public, 74 Hall, City, 108 Hall, Faneuil, 98 3IO GENERAL INDEX. Herald The, 5, 107 House, Old State, 97 House, Parker, 107 House, State, 96, 97 Hill, Beacon, 96 /ournal. The, 1 08 Library, Public, 75 Massacre, 98 Museum, Art, 109 Pilot, The, 108 Post, The, 107 Representatives, House of, 96 School, Latin, 77 Schools, 76 Y.M.C.A., no Boston, vSouth, 72 Bowditch, Nathaniel, 82 Boyeson, Professor, 68 Bradford, 138 Bradstreet, Gov. Simon, 81 Braislen, Dr. Ed., 260 Breckenridge, Rev. J. S., 60 Bremer, Frederika, 132 Bridge, Brooklyn, 19, 47, 48, 1 76 Bridge, East River, 46 Bridge, Victoria, 276, 280 Bridgeport, 155 Bright, John, 122, 126, 138 Brighton, 60, 1 34 Bristol, 89 Britain, Great, 167 Broadway, 19, 29 Brock, Major, 35 Brockville, 273 Brooklyn, 4, 19, 20, 22, 39, 40, 156, 301 Cemetery, Greenwood, 57 Church, Baptist, 54 Church, Plymouth, 59 Hall, City, 59 Hospital, Methodist, 60, 61 House, Court, 59 Park, Prospect, 59 Station, Fire Engine, 58 Tabernacle, The, 59 Brooks, Dr. Phillips, loi, 103 Brooks, H. M., 78, 95 Brown, John, 126 Brussels, 190 Bryant, W. C, 113 Buchanan, President, 188 Buck, Dr. W. IL, 4 Buck, Mr., 203 Bucke, Dr., 174, 175 Bucks, 163 Buffalo, 230, 23T, 246, 260 Library, 233 Monument, 233 School, High, 233 Buffalo, New, 224 Burmah, British, 49 Burns, 51 C. Cable, Geo. Wm., 146, 147 Cable, Mrs., 147 . Caldwell, 293 Calcutta, 14, 79 California, 3 Cambridge, 78, 103, in, n6, 134 Camden, 173 Canada, 22, 75, 211, 227, 249, 257 Canal, Erie, 257 Canal, Rideau, 266 Canterbury, 189 Cape Town, 114 Carleton, Will, 48, 50, 54, 60, 68, 84, 266, 301, 303 Carleton, Mrs., 49 Carlyle, X76 Cascade, Alhambra, 252 Casey, General, 190 Castle, William, 19 Cathedral, Milan, 308 St. Paul's, 265 Catskill, 298 Caughnawaga, 276 Causeway, Giant's, 300 Central Park, N.Y., 44 Chadwick, Dr., 54 Chamberlain, Joseph, ISLP. /8 Chanonix, 178 Channel, Fort Point, 72 Charleston, 76, 134 Chatham, 22i', 227 Cliapel, W^esleyan, 227 England, Sons of, 227 Chelsea, 76 Chesapeake, The, 28 Cheshire, I Chester, West, 173 Chicago, 43, 84, no, 123, 190, 195, 2n, 222, 224, 231, 248 Church, Unity, 43 Exhibition, 198 Park, Jackson, 198 Park, Lincoln, 199 Park, \Vashington, 198 Yards, Stock, 199 Chicopee. 149 Chien, Prairie du, 210 China, 36, 79 Chivers, Rev. E. E., 231, 260 Clemens, S. L., 68 Clerk, The Hotel, 24 Clermont, The, 4 Cleveland, 230 ■■ — President, 92 Clifton, 19 GENERAL INDEX. 3it , 134 '. 257 3, 68, 84, 90, 195, Clinton, Sir Henry, 30 De Witt, 58 Club, The Century, 306 Colleges — McKendree, 211 Morrin, 290 Harvard, ill Princeton, 162 WyclifTe, 264 Vale, 151, 162 Collyer, Dr. Robert, 40, 41, 42, 43, 54. 137 Colonies, The, 3 Colosseum, The, 308 Columbus, 31, 197 Conant, Roger, 78 Concord. 84 Connecticut, 4 Conway, C. Eleanor, 108 Cooke, Frederick, 28 Corcoran, \Vm., 190 Cork, Cove of, 6 Cornwallis, Lord, 30 Creek, Battle, 224 Creston, 194 Cromwell, Oliver, 81 Curtis, G. W., 295, 3'30 Curwin, Judge, 78 D. Danrgett, Dr. Napthali, 152 Daly, Augustin, 171, 172 Danvers, 122, 127 David, King, 55 Day, Memorial, 256, 257 Delaware, State of, 180, iSi Denmark, 36 Depew, Chauncey M., 53, 66 Detroit, 37, 222, 225, 231 Isle, Belle, 226 Hall, City, 226 Library, Free, 226 Martins, Campus, 226 Dickens, Charles, 84, 132, 246 Dighton, 72 Dilke, Sir Charles, 289 Dobson, John, 42 Donaldson, Fort, 43 Dundreary, Lord, 209 Dwight, Timothy, 148 Eastern, The Great, 14 Easthampton, 146 Easlon, North, 72 Edinburgh, 248 Edwards, Jonathan, 147 Egypt, 4, 52 Eldridge, John, 89 Elizabeth, 162 Emerson, R. W., 84, I06, 113, 126, 176 Emmett, 29 Endicott, John, 78 Endicott, W. C, 92 Enfield, 142 Shakers, 142 England, 5, 50, 63, 103, 105, no, 121, 126, 143, 154, 158, 160 Bank of, 246 New, 73, loi, 132, 135, 145, 148, 151, 172, i88, 229 Ensign, R. II., 142, 144 Esquimaux, The, 93 Europe, 4, 37, 1 70, 172, 190, 2C9, 223 Everett, Edward, 74, 75 Exeter, N. II., 101 F. Fair, The World's, 250 Fairfield, 156 Falls— Anthony, St., 209 Had ley, 148 Horse Shoe, 239 Montmorency, 290 Niagara, 236, 238 Trenton, 252 Farmer, Professor, 95 Farmington, 142 Ferry, Fulton, 46 Fewston, 48 Folgcr, Henry, 265, 26S Folkestone, 160 Forster, W. E., 126 Forts— Carillon, 29 Foot, 186 George, 30 Henry, 267 Wayne, 195 Framingham, South, 134 France, 3, 4, 5, 36, 229 Francisco, San, 223 Franklin, Benjamin, 98, 109, 166, 169, 189 Eraser, Mr., 3 Fulton, 5 G. Garfield, President, 182, 189, 230 Garrison, W. Lloyd, no, 126 George, King, 28, 167 Germantown, 157, 169 (iermany, 3, 36, 229 Guiteau, 182 Gladstone, Ilcrbeit, 125 W. E., 126 Gooch, Mr., 290 312 GENERAL INDEX. Goodell, Abner C, 96 Government, American, 94 Gordon, Commodore, i86 Gosse, Edmund, 76 Gould, Jay, 53, 156 Granby, 146 Grant, Principal, 267 Granville, 140 Gray, Billy, 82 Greeley, Horace, 57 Green, Captain, J. P., 173 Greenwich, 156 Gregg, Dr. David, 75 Guille, A. L., 166 H. Haydn, 89 Hale, Nathan, 149 Rev. E. E., 98, 99 Halifax, N. S., 4, 14 Hall, Dr. John, 52 Hancock, John, 72 •Handel, 89 Hardy, Willie, 41, 42 Harper, Fletcher, 56 J. Wesley, 56 James, 56 John, 56 llarrisburg, 191 Harrison, H. G.,211 Harrison, Piesident, 190 Harrogate, 290 Hartford, 134, 142, 143, 149 Athenoeum, 151 Capitol, 149 College, Trinity, 151 Mansion, Colt, 151 Oak, Charter, 150 Park, Bushnell, 149 Representatives, Hall of, 150 Society, Historical, 151 Harvard, 116, 127, 171' 162 Ilnulljowline, 6 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, S3, 84, 85, 126 //era/ii, Boston, 5 Heights, Kingston, 262 Helena, St., 187 Herford, Dr. Brooke, 100, no Iliglilands, Naves^ink, 17 llobait, General, 203 Hobokcn, 19 Hobson, John, 42 Holland, 3 Hollow, .Sleepy, 296 Holmes, O. W., 49, 103, 106, no, 113 liolyoke, 148 Hong Kong, 14 Hook, Sandy, 17 Hope, Mount, 72 Hoppin, Rev, J. M., 80 Hotels — Auditorium, 23 Chiton, Niagara, 244 Cosmopolitan, 22, 23 Crossmon, 270 Fifth Avenue, 23 Grand Union, 23 Hoffman, 23 Union, Boston, 100 Windsor, 23 Houghton, Henry O., 1 10, in, n2, "3 Howard, T. G., 264, 265 Howe, Elias, 137 Julia Ward, 108 Lord, 30 Huddersfield, 169 Hudson, 50 Hendrick, 296 Hull, 4 Hungary, 36 Huntingdon, 193 Hurlbut, Mr, 2*18 I. Ilkley, 42 Illinois, 2n Immigration Returns, 33, 34 Indies, West, 3 Interlachen, 307 Invasion, British, 181 Iowa, 43, 208 Ipswich, 78 Ireland, 36, 300 Ireson, Captain, 86 Irving, 201 • — ; — Washington, 151, 260, 300 Irvinglon, 260 Islands— Bahama, 198 Coney, 17, 59, 60 Dix, 30 Ellis, 31 CJoat, 236, 238 Governor's, 19 Hinlan's, 264 Hart's, 269 Juna, 238 Long, 19 Lowell, 89 Oak, 76 Prisoners, 292 Rainbow, 238 Rocky, 6 Spike, 6 Staten, 17, 19, 40 Thousand, The, 68, 267—276 Italy, 4, 36 GENERAL INDEX. II, 112, 00 J. Japan, 79 Jersey, 40, 157, 248 New, 17, 162, 173 Johnson, R. U , 68 Johnstown, 195 Jordan, 251 Juneau, Solomon, 201 Kalamazoo, 224, 231 Kansas, 211 Kean, Charles, 28 Khedive, The, 52 King, Hon. Horatio, i83 Kingston, 229, 266, 267 Knickerbockers, The, 30 Kronold, Mddle., Selma, 166 Lafeyette, 89, 1S7 Lakes — Beaver, 220 Champlain, 291 Chatauqua, 230 Croton, 260 Diamond, 224 Erie, 236 Francis, St., 274 (Jcorge, 291 Huron, 236 Michigan, 198, 201, 2j6 Nashotah, 219 Nipissing, 2^56 Oconomowoc, 217 Okauchee, 220 Ontario, 236, 262, 266 Pewaukee, 215 Pine, 220 Quinsigamond, 135 Salt, 150 Superior, 203, 232, 236, 286 Vermillion, 232 Wisconsin, 215, 220 York, New, 68 Lancashire, 41, 130 Lancing, 231 Larcom, Lucy, 9) Lawrence, 122, 127 Pacific Mills, 128 — 131 Lawrence, Captain, 28 Lee, Francis H., 89 Colonel, 89 Leeds, 3, 38, 141, 169 Lenox, James, 44 Leslie, Colonel, 79 Lester, Hev. C. Stanley, 204 Lewiston, 262 Liberty, Statue of, 18, 19, 158 Libraries, 44 Lightning, Electric, 95 Lincoln, Abraham, 89,, 189 Linderfelt, Mr., 203 Linlithgow, Earls of, 298 Liverpool, I, 4, 5, 15, 17, 27) Livingstone, 298 London, 38, 64, 75, 94, no, 141, 158, 172, 197, 248 Long, Ex-Govenor, 108 Longfellow, H. W., 49, 106, 113, 126 Louis, St., 198, 211, 222 Lowell, 68, 122, 133 J. Russell, 49, 106, 119, 141 Lynn, 76, 93 M. Mable, Hamilton W,, 68 MacDonald, Sir John, 278 Macedon, 251 MacKellar, Thomas, 171 Magazine, Harper's, 27 Maine, 30 Majestic, Steam Ship, I, 2, 5, 7, S, 9, 12, 14, 25, 136, 306 Mall, Pali, 12 Manchester, 100 Marblehead, 84 Causeway, 88 Church, St. Michael's, 89 Hall, Town, 89 }Iarbour, 88 House, Abbott, 87 House, Tucker, 87 Point, Peach's, 87 Neck, 88 Marcollus, 251 Marvel, Ik, 154, 196 Maryland, 180, 186, 189, 230 Mather, Cotton, 78 Massachusetts, 91, 103, 120, 146, 159 May Day, 135 Mayflower, The, 1 87 May, Queen of, 135 N'eara, Henry O., loS Media, 172 Memphis, 251 " Mendelssohn, 89 Mer. . The Lteds, 138 Mei.iu, Mrs., 107 Mexico, 3, 273 Michigan, 50, 224 Mills, Merrimac, 68 Pacific, 128 — 131 Milwaukee, 39, 190, 199, 201, 215, 220, 2:3 Brewery, Pabst, 203 Cathedral, Catholic, 202 Church, St. Paul's, 204 3*4 GfeNEkAL iNbEX. !i Expositi'^n, 203 Gallery, Laylon Art, 202 Home, Forest, 204 Home, Soldiers', 204 Park, Juneau, 20 1 Minneapolis, 37, 208 Gallery Art, 214 Library, Free, 213 School, High, 213 Minnehaha, Falls of, 212, 212 Minnesota, 211 Mitchell, Hon. Alex., 205 Donald G., 153, 154, 196 Mission, Nashotah, 215 Missouri, 208 Monterides, 79 Monthly, The Atlantic, 113 Montreal, 23, 159, 228, 264, 278 Armes, Place d', 279 Cemetery, 280 Dame, Notre, 278 Gazette, The, 229 Hall, City, 28 Hall, St. I.awrence, 277, 278 Market, 2S0 Park, Mountain , 280 Royal, Mount, 279 Moody, C, 43 Moore, Tom, 51, 178, 269 Morley, 130 Morrisburgh, 273 Morse, Professor, no Mortimer, Charles, 201 Moulton, Louise C, loS Mountains — Adirondack, 68 Alleghany, 193 Plane, 308 Catskill, 68, 258, 296 East, 142 Helderberg, 296 Holyoke, 148, 149 Rocky, 288 West, 142 White, 125 Mozart, 89 MSS., Burns, 45 Munich, 51 Murchy, A. Mac, 265 Murphy, Rev. J., 227 Murray, Lindley, 138 Rev. \V. H. H., 75 Museum, British, 44 N. Naples, 307 Nashotah, 2:5 Natick, 134 Navy, British, 6 Newburgh, 258 New Haven, 134, 151 Museum, Peabo.ly, 152 School, Art, 152 Divinity, 152 Gymnasium, 152 Scientific, 152 New York, 4, IS, 17, 20, 37, 72, 158, 1 72, 248 Avenue, Fifth, 23, 44, 52 Battery, 27, 35 Barge Office, The, \\, 33-35 Bethesda Fountai.u 51 Bowling Greer., 19, 30 Broadway, 19, 29, 30, 37 Church, Christ, 53 St. Paul's, 28 Trinity, 27 Exchange, Produce, 19, 302 Stock, 36 Garden, Castle, 19 Hall, City, 31 House, Court, 31 ■ Custom, 30 Museum, Art, 44 Office, Post, 27, 29, 30 Park, Central, 44, 52, 59, 127 Railway, Elevated, Z?, 38, 39 Society, Historical, 45 Square, Franklin, 56 Printing House, 55 Station, Grand Central, 62, 63 Street, Wall, 30, 36, 37 Synagogue, Hebrew, 53 Tombs, The, 46 Niagara, 230, 233, 240, 252, 262 Nicholls, Mr. J, L., 263, 266 Mrs. J. L., 266 Nicoll, D. xMc, 282, 288 Nonantum, 134 Northampton, Mass., 146 Norway, 36 O Oconomovvoc, 216 Oliver, Grace A., 89, 94 On'ario, 229 Orleans, New, 190 Ottawa, 266, 284 Pacific, The, 223, 282 Paine, Tom, 156 Palestine, 5 Palisades, The, 300 Palmer, Dr. J. W., 301, 302 Paris, 96, 15s, 197, 240, 378, 307 Parker, Theodore, 75 GENERAL IN'DEX. 3*5 72, 158, 35 }2 127 39 >2 57 f^ Parks— Central, 51, 59, 127 City Hall, 30,31,55 Fairmount, 163, 178 High, 264 Peabody, 122 Prospect, 59 Riverside, 51 I'arliament, British, 79 Parnell, C. S., 126 Parthenon, The, 30, 15 1 Paul, St., 208, 214 Paul's, St., 158 Peabody, 92, 93 ,Cieorge, 92, 93, 127 Institute, g\ Peekskill, 300 Penn, William, 163, 179 Pennsylvania, 43, 101, 163, 178, 230 Phelps, E. S., 127 Philadelphia, 40, 43, 72, 10 1, 121, 157. 163, 173, 179. 182, 190, 191, 198 Arts, Academy of, 166 Bell, Independence, 167 Hall, City, 1 63, 164 Hall, Independence, 166 House, Opera, 166 Office, Post, 166 Park, Fairmount, 163, 178 Temple, Masonic, 163 Phillipse, Mary, 260 Piatt, Mrs. J. C. G., 252 Pinkham, Mrs., 94 Pitkin, Miss, 143 Pittsburg, 19s Point, Rouse's, 291 West, 298, 299 Plymouth, 78 Poland, 36 Pompey, 251 Poughkeepsic, 258, 298 Prescot, 273 Prescott, W. H., 81 Press, Riverside, 114-116 Princeton, 162 Pullman, 222, 223, 224 Punshon, Dr. W. M., 246 Putnam, General, 149 Mr., 213 Pyramids, The, 308 Q Quarantine Station, 17 Quebec, 42, 223, 229, 264, 278, 289 Citadel, 289 Hall, City, 289 Hotel, St. Louis, 289 House, Court, 289 Market, 289 House, Parliament, 289 Terrace, Dufferin, 289 Queenstown, $, 6, 7, 307 Cathedral, 6 Quincy, 72 Jobiah, 109 R Railways— Baltimore and Ohio, 248 Boston and Maine, 76 Chicago, M. & St. Paul, 199, 208 Elevated, 22, 38, 39, 260 Hudson River, 62 Lake Shore, 231 New York Central, 62 Pacific, Canadian, 159, 276, 283 Pennsylvania, 40, 157, 173, 193, 248 Reading, 165, 173 Reading and Jersey, 248 Rock Island, 231 St. Paul and Sioux, 211 Trunk, Grand, 277 Ramsay, Allan, 167 Rantoul, R. S., 90 Rapids, The, 272 Long Sault, 273, 274 I achine, 276, 280 Niagara, 240 Raynham, 72 Kehan, Ada, 171, 172 Reservation, Indian, 261 Rtvieiv, The Andover^ 113 Revolution, The, 36, 181 Rivers— Charles, 76, 103, ill, 134 Delaware, 163, 179 East, 19 Fall, 70, 72 Farmington, 142 Genessee, 250 Harlem, 260 Hudson, 4, 19, 157, 24S, 257, 260, 296 Huron, 225 Juanita, 193 Lawrence, St., 266, 277, 278 Mersey, i, 308 Mississippi, 195 Niagara, 236 Oconomowoc, 220 Potomac, 183, 186 Rhine, 300 Kideau, 284 Saugus, 76 Schuylkill, 163, 179 Susquehanna, 180 Tham cs, 4 Wharfe, 42 I 3i6 GENERAL INDEX. Robson, Mr., 32 1 Rochelle, New, 156 Rochester, 250 Rome, S, 2u, 307 Ross, G. W., 2j3, 265 Russia, 3, 36 Ryerson, E. 196 Dr. 265 S. Salem, 37, 68, 76, 108, no, 120, 133 Arnjoury, Cadet, 90 Athenteum, 81 Bridge, North, 96 Church, First North, 96 Puritan, 8i F'estival, Musical, 89 Hall, City, 90 Lyceum, 96 Marine, 92, 93 Plummer, 80, 82 lioMse, Custom, 83 Institute, Ess\ :., 78, 82, 96 Library, Pubuo, 92 School, High, 91 Science, Academy of, 92 Society, Oratorio, 89 ^Relief, 91 Saltonstall, lion. L , 90 Saratoga, 68, 291, 293 Savannah, 4 hay brook, 152 Scarborough, 60 Schenectady, 257 Scotland, 36, 45, 155, 205 Scott, Sir Walter, 51 Scudder, Horace E., 118 Shakespeare, 51 Sigourney, Mrs , 156 Simsbury, 142, 143, 146, 151 Cemetery, 146 Chapel, Wesle)an, 146 Sing Sing, 260, 300 Smith, College, 147 Sophia, 147 Tom, 42 Snelling, Fort, 209 Society, Historical, 45 Sothern, Edward, 28 Spain, 4 Spencer, Mass., 12c, 137 Springfield, 141, 149 Armoury, 141 Arsenal, 141 Springs, Cresson, 194 Stapleton, 19 Staiion, Quarantine, 17 Steele, Franklin, 209 Stevens, Col. John H., 209 Stockton, Frank R., 68 Storrs, Dr., <;9 .Stowe, Chailes E., 151 Harriet B. , 150 Stuige, Tojcph, 126 Suez, 14 Sugden, Richard, 138 Sumatra, 79 Sweden, 36 Switzerland, 36 Synagogue, Hebrew, 53 Syracuse, 250 T. Talleyrand, 30 Talmage, Dr., 54, 59 Miss, 5 + Mrs., 54 Tarrytown, 260 Taunton, 72 Tennyson, Lord, 172 Tetley, Geo., 127, 132 Tiutonic, The, 7 Thomas, Theodore, 166 Thompsonville, 142 Thumb, Tom, 155 Ticknnr, G., 75 Toledo, 37, 2ji Tompkins, Fort, 17 Toronto, 159, 228, 246, 262 Torquay, 154 'I'own, Cape. 14 Travelling, Railway, 191 Trenton, 162 Falls of, 252 Tribune, The, 56, 58, 305 Trollope, Anthony, 120, 133,181, 241, 246 Twain, Mark, 49, 68,69, 148, 150 U. Ulysses, 251 University, Harvard, 116 — u8 Michigan, 225 • Toronto, 264 Upham, Caroline E., 78 Utica, 248, 251, 252, 257 V. Vancouver, 284, 288 Vanderbilt, Commodore, 67 Cornelius, 53, 65 W. H., 52, 67 W. K., 52 Vassal', Matthew, 298 "^^enice, 155, 271 Vermont, 278, 280 Victoria, 3 Queen, 94 Virgil, 251 Virginia, 186, 189 \V \v \v \v w w Wi w GENERAL INDEX. 317 Si, 241, '50 y w, Wadsworth, Fort, 17 Wagner, Dr., 251 Wanamaker, John, 165 War, The Civil, 51, ij8, 122, 155, 180, 186 Revolutionary, 79 Secession, 183 Warner, C. Dudley, 150 Wardrobe, Mr., 127 Warren, Joseph, 98 Washington, 149, 158, 177, 179, 248 Capitol, 182—185 Cemetery, 183 Chamber, Senate, 185 Court, Supreme, 185 Fredonia, Hotel, 183 (iallery, Art, 190 Cardcns, Botanical, 183 Hall, City, 183 Marble, 185 1 ouse. Soldiers'. 183 Court, 183 — The White, 182, 1S9 Library, 185 Monument, 189 Museum, 189 Treasury, ^83 Washington, General, 28, 30, 48, 74, 90, 119, 166, 168, 181, 186, 187, 260 Martha, 187 Wattrs, J. Linton, 86 Watson, Professor, 267 Wayne, Fort, 195 Weber, Colonel, 32, 35 Webb, Captain, 244 H. Walter, 66 Weehawken, 240 Weekly, Harpers, 57 Westville, 152 White, Judge, 8d Sallie Joy, 108 Whitetield, George, 73, 89, 98 Whitman, Walt, 1 73— 177 Wiiittier, John G., 49, 85, 106, lij, 122, 123, 124, liS, 126 Williams, Barney, 57 Williamsetl, 148 Williston, Hon. S., 146 Willson, Rev. G. B., 96 Wilmington, 180 Windsor, I42, 229 Winter, John Strange, 305 —-_ William, 303—3^5 Wise msin, 208, 211 Wolcot, Simon, 142, 143 Wood, Sir Trueman, 64 Worcester. 134, 135, 137, 13S Church, Old South, 135 Hall, City, 135 Library, Free, 136 Society, Antiquarian, 137 V Yale College, 151 Yorkshire, 5, 41, 43. 98, J03, 122, 127, 130, 141, 158, 201, 231, :.57, 276 Young People, Harper's, 5 7 ./.r^m'U Lnurawdby taidwlnSi CluascnTJ Y. U :, n. FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, MADISON SQUARE, NEW YORK. The largest, best appointed, and most liberally managed Hotel in the City, with the most central and delightful location. A. B. Darling. Chas. N. Vilas. HITCHCOCK, DARLING S CO. E. A. Darling. Hiram Hitchcock. FASTEST TRAIN IN THE WORLD. THE EQUIPMENT of the EMPIRE STATE EXPRESS CONSISTS OF ONE .COMBINATION BUFFET SMOKING CAR, TWO STANDARD NEW YORK CENTRAL COACHES, ONE WAQNER BUFFET DRAWING-ROOM CAR. The entire train vestibuled, heated by st.;ani, lighted by gas. Weight of Train, 481,800 pounds. CUISINE.— Lnncheon, Tea, Coffee, Wine and Clgan, served trom the Buffet at all honrs, BAOOAOE.— Baggage on this train matt be limited itrictly to ordinary personal baggage. Mo commercial or theat- rical baggage or scenery will be taken on this train. DIRECT LINE TO NIAGARA FALLS. 10J HOURS FROM GRAND CENTRAL STATION, the very centre of the city of NEW YORK, TO THE GREAT CATARACT, by the EMPIRE STATE EXPRESS. You can Breakfast in NEW YORK, and take your Dinner at BUFFALO or NIAGARA FALLS. No Other line approaches the service offered by the Great Four-Track NIEW YORK CENTRAL AND HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD. i I 'EL, I Hotel in :ion. . Darling. ui Hitchcock. CPRESS YORK lAR. Soo pounds. ercial or theat- THE CITY OF RA FALLS. OAD. V NEW YORK CENTRAL & HUDSON RIVER R. R. DIRECT ROUTE TO PRINCIPAL HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS OF NEW YORK STATE, CANADA, & NEW ENGLAND. ONLY LINE WITH WAGNER PARLOUR OR SLEEPING CARS THROUGH TO SARATOGA, LAKE GEORGE, ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS, & MONTREAL. HIGHLANDS OF THE HUDSON RIVER, A3 SEEN FROM TRAINS OF NEW YORK CENTRAL. FAST SARATOGA AND LAKE GEORGE SPECIALS RUN DAILY DURING THE SEASON . ' Trains arrive at and depart from GRAND CENTRAL STATION, 4th Avenue and 42d treet— the ^ ery centre of the City. Largest and Finest Passenger Station in America, and the only one in the City of New York. Our ILLUSTRATED TOURIST GUIDE, 212 pages, giving a complete list of Routes and Rates, will be mailed to any address on receipt of 16 cents, postage. Send for copy before deciding upon your trip. E. J. RICHARDS, QEORQE H. DANIELS, Asst. Gen. Passenger Agent, Gen. Passenger A_<;;ent. Grand Central Station, New York. i MAK 2 t959 PENNSYLVANIA RAILWAY . NEW YORK #^ CHICAGO LIMITED, The safest, easiest, and most luxurious train in the worid. HETWEEN NEW YORK, CHICAGO, AND CINCINNATI. This train, acknowledged by all to be without a parallel, embraces every essential to the comfort, ease, and entertainment of the traveller, combined with speed and safety. Composed exclusively of Pullman Vestibuled • DRAWING-ROOM, DINING, SMOKING, AND SLEEPING CARS, it offers a means of rapid transit to the West, combined with all the comforts and lux iries of a metropolitan hotel, and to the uninitiated is a revelation of what has been accomplished in the history of railroading. TNrnnong the /Northern Lakes OF WISCONSIN, MINNESOTA, IOWA, MISSOURI and DAKOTA ARE HUNDREDS OF Delightful Places where Pass the S^ivimer ONE CAN ONTH! In quiet rest and enjoyment, and return home tt the end of the heated term complete' y rejuvenated. Each recurring season brings to OCONOMOWOC, WAUKESHA, BEAVER DAM, FRONTENAC, OKOBOJI, HOTEL ST. LOUIS, LAKE MIMNETCiiiKA, WHITE BEAR, EXCELSIOR SPRINGS, and innumerable other charming localities with romantic names, thousands of our best people whose winte homes are on eiiher side of Mason and Dixon's line. Elegance and comfort at a moderate cost can be readilj obtained. A list of Summer Homes, with all necessary infoinialion pertaining thereto is being distributej by the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway, and will be sent Free upon application by letter to A, V. H. CARPENTER, General Pass!ii^,r Agents Rlilwaukee, U'i L ^ S2. JMITED, i train E3 CINNATI. irallel, embraces of the traveller, vely of Pullman 10KING, ed with all the] uninitiated is a| >f railroading-. La kesi DAKOTA IAN complete' y OBOJI, HOTEL R SPRINGS, t people whose winte ate cost can be readil to is being distribute! ail way, •nt, Milwaukee, U\ L