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' / Its Position, Inhabitants, Mineral Interests, Fish, Timber and other Resources, WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. !7 Papers read before the Canadian Institcte BY JAMES CLELAND HAMILTON, M.A., LL.B., Chairman of the Histcrical Section, ., t-, , ^^„^ Author of "The Prairie Provinpe." ^ ' * << , ^ TORONTO : JAF]^S BAIN & SON. 1893. E. Marlbrouoh & Co., Chas. Scribner's Sons, London, E. ^^"^J^^^^^i!^k TiCKNOR & Co., ^v^O^^**^*//] O.M.I. f Entered according to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year One thousand eight hundred and ninety-three, by Jamrs CiiiiiAND Hamilton, in the office of the Minister of Agriculture. 1^ 1^ ,. ^tl ERRATA. Page 148 — Read ; The" t»)tal area of Hudson Bay, of which James Bay is part, is 397,000 square miles. Page 166 — Aurora Borealis. Read ; nimi-i-diwag. Page 168 --Parry Sound; IVah-sch-ko-ning, meaning Driftwood all around the shore. «u Boaedalet TororUOy May, 1893. f TO The Crew of the " White Squall " AND To ALL THE Jolly Fishermen WHOSE NETS ARE CAST 'mONO THE ISLES OF The Georgian Bay. Bosedalet TorontOy May, 1893. The photograph of Champlain's astrolabe is from the original, through the courtesy of R. S. Cassels, Esq. The other illustrations are from original pencil sketches made by Mrs. Jameson during her "Summer Rambles" of 1837, in possession of Mr. Robert Bain, who has kindly permitted their reproduction in this volume. " And this our life^ exempt from public huunt^ I'inds tongues in trees^ books in the running brooks^ Sermons in stones, and good in every thing^ CONTENTS. CHAPTER T. Inciuknts of a Canaihan Mii»srMMER Excursion. — The * White Sijuall ' and her crow start from Wiarton — They visit Parry Sound — The Minks — Join in the fishermen 8 gayoties— See the vosseln and mode of life there and at the liuHtards — French River — Fishermen and fish stations — Killarney — Squaw Island — Club Island — Tamarack Har- bour — The Manit<»ulin8 — Rattlesnake Harbour — Half Breeds — Indians — Rattlers — Camp-fire fun — The South Channel- -Tobermory —The Big Tub and the Little Tub— The Flower Pots — VVin^field Basin — Cape Croker — Sau- geen Peninsula— Back to Wiarton 9-27 CHAPTER II. HisroRicAL AND GEGcRAriiu'AL. — Mr. David Thompson and his labours as traveller and astronomer — The Bay described — Its strategic importance — The Saugeen Peninsula — The North Channel — Collingwood — Thornbury — Meaford — Wiarton — Penetanguishene and Sir John Franklin — Ste. Marie and the Jesuits — The Christian Islands — Railway from Parry Sound — Names of places — How derived — Some from the Hurons — Some fanciful, as Flus^ Tiny and Tay — Others in honor of soldiers, seamen and statesmen — The "Temporary Judicial District of Manitoulin," how bound- ed—The Island railway 28-38 CHAPTER III. Geological Formation and Mininc; Interests. — The Lauren- tians — Graphite, appatite and mica — The Huronian forma- tion — The ''Folding process" — Early volcanic activity — The Silver Islet and Bruce mines — The Ophir Gold Mine — Nickel deposits — Their great value — Professor Williams* discussion of the volcanic agencies north of the Georgian Bay — Nickel known to the Chinese and ancients — Found in meteorites — The "Copper Devil" — Cronstedt's views — (vi) .'■ y C0NTKNT8. Vll Compdgitos r»f iiickol Its vftiious iihi'h Tho Sudhury nickel bultsund niiiioH — KiumoiiB' ThIiIub of iiickul-iroii-BufohiUoB, gursdurlHto Mr. (Jeorgo Micklc's opinion Tho vVallnco mine— A long wtUch Use of nickel by the Kngliuh Admir- ftlty and I'nited States navy — Tliey buy it at Sudbury — Important experiments made by I'nited States (Government and great metal firms — The result — Public and doniestic uses of nickel increasing fast — (ic'd mining — Platinum — Other metals — The IJird's Eye formation — Trenton lime- stone — Hudson River formation— Medina marls — The Clinton and Niagara limestones — Deposits of a Silurean sea — Spencer's views Chains of lakes— Runways — Indian trails — Falls and cascades — Proposed railway from French River to the C. P. R iiS)-(\2 CHAPTER IV. Native Inhahitants. - The Assikinacks — Distinguished chiefs and warriors — Charter of Indian rights — Customs — Shoot- ing Matsi Manito — Mode of government — Land of the Hurons, their remains — Ottawasand Chippewas — Patriotic sentiments — Mr. S. J. Dawson's story — Education — Wards of Ciovernment — C. T. Keejek — Francis Assikinack — Macinac massacre — Fort Dearborn— Chicago — Taken by Ottawas — The place described — The *' Black Partridge Medal " — Assikinack's activity in Var of 1812 — The •' Tigress " and '* Scorpion " captured — Archdeacon McMurray's narrative — Mrs. Jameson's story, as to Macinac — the "Soo" North Channel and Manitoulin Indians — Schoolcraft's Algonquin researches 63-83 /■' CHAPTER V. Indian Life and Traditions (cimtinued). — The origin of the " Song of Hiawatha" — The legends of Manabozho — Alex- ander Ht nry's version — The Isle of Nanibojou still vener- ated — Rev. W. M. Beauchamp — Dr. A. F. Chamberlin, Mr. J. Mclntyre and others refer to the Canadian demi- god Manabozho or Nanibojou — Assikinack the Ottawa " Blackbird " once a pagan warrior, becomes a Christian of sterling character — Captani Anderson gives him a severe lesson — Career of Francis Assikinack, a "warrior of the Odahwahs " — He claims an Asiatic origin for his people — Romantic characteristics — The Mohawks as warriors — Sahgima's watching tower — Oratory and legends . . . 84-99 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. PiONEBK Vessels. — Climatic influences — The fisheries — Excellence of the white fish— Size of the salmon trout — Opinions of travellers- The industry described by the fish- ermen — Fish-oil making — \ man of Lewis — Proulx's great luck —The fishing stations — Official and other statistics as to \fihie of the catch — Number of men and vessels and fathoms of net employed in the Georgian Bay ^^id Lake Huron — Depletion of supply — Opinions as to this and the remedy Ly D, W. Port and others. , 100-113 CHAPTER VIL Wild Animals of tee Reqion — Fruit, Flowers and Forestry. — The moose, deer, wapiti and other large game — Birds and small game — The gulls, owls, grosbeaks, swans, ducks, geese, pigeons, partridges, rabbits — Varieties of wild fruit — The trees described — Age of maples, oaks and pines — A great forest fire — Beauty of tbo vegetation in autumn — Forestry and lumbering — Fire-rangers — Value of the timber interest — Extent of the lumber region of Ontario — The old voyageur route described, as used by Champlain and Sir George Simpson — The Railway adopts it — Canals proposed — The Hurontario Ship Railway 114-137 CHAPTER VIII. Champlain's Astrolabe, lost on the Ottawa, found after 254 years — History and description of it — Land and timber north of North Bay, as described by J. C Bailey, C.E. and others — James Bay — Ontario's broad expanse — A National F' '" nt and Park proposed — Territory recommended for the pt.. . '"^ -Its situation and extent defined— Fisherman desire a M- '*ni9y policy — Conclusion — "'Mong the isles of the ^yjimsM Bay". 138-167 x^^kVr ^.« oicBs. — A. Census of Indutas of Ontario and Quebec ; B. Shinguacose, the Chippewa chief ; C. Captain Thomas George Anderson ; D. Official signatures of F. B. Assiki- nack and his son Francis ; E. The Algonquin language — Indk.^n Names of Persons and Places — -Totems or Do daims 158-170 THE GEOEGIAN BAY. CHAPTER I. INCIDENTS OF A CANADIAN MIDSUMMER EXCl^RSION. Deus nobis haec otia fecit. — Vir*•> Canadian Midsummer Eirciirsion. 23 peace became permanent. The like remains of two old gunboats may be seen in the Penetang harbour. They were sunk after the war of 1812, their guns and tackle being previously removed ; a careless way of disposing of them, as they, to some extent, impede navigation, and are hard to raise, when imbedded and waterlogged. After dinner, four of the party went with guns to Hay harbour to look for game. They lost their way, in returning after nightiall, so retraced their steps back to the water's edge, made a camp fire, slept under an abandoned macinac, and held the fort until morn- ing, when they caught sight of some ducks and two deer. A lynx had enlivened the night with his music. The boys came in tired and hungry, as the breakfast camp fire was blazing. Struck camp at 9.80, August 13th, and with a good breeze and a couple of tacks, bowled out past the light. The old keeper, a tall man with wrinkled weary face and black pipe, but with his briglit girl of ten and barking dog beside him, waved us farewell. Passed between the Doctor and Russell islands, and, to our left, a couple of miles out of course, to observe the Flower Pots, two rocks that rise like great urns at the end of a wooded island. Then struck for Wingfield Basin, where we arrived at 2.30 p m. This is a heart- shaped harbour, lying between high picturesque rocks and woods. It had formerly a fishing station, which was burned. The entrance is not protected and is shoally ; its sides are covered with " the panther-peo- i) > ^^-x 24 The Georgian Bay. pled forests," and rise in places to hills of some height, wild and unsettled. The growth of trees, shrubs and flowers was very complete. There were vine trellises, garlanded with a species of clematis, and we gathered red pin-cherries, small gooseberries, sugar-plums and pigeon-berries for dessert. Left at 3 p.m., with fair wind. Cabot's Head and Dyer's Bay are passed, and Cape Croker comes in sight in the blue distance. As we pursue our south- east course, Lion's Head, Barrow Bay, Hope Bay with Barrier island off its mouth, are in the great bay, called Melville Sound, all the east side of the Saugeen Peninsula, so jutting out in long limestone cliffs. Be- hind is McGregor's harbour. On turning Cape Croker, we ran close-hauled with both sails, south-west, with the three Giants' Steps, large green protuberances on the peninsula, in view. Met the Canada Pacific Rail- way steamer ' Manitoba,' going north, and entered Colpoy's Bay. Camped on the west side of Hay island. The critical may ask why two of our number were given names so peculiar, and this may be a suitable time to rise to explain '•' Ninety " was a member of the loyal battalion bearing that number during the Riel episode in our North- West. The figure was emblazoned on part of his attire and stood out on his manly breast. He held rank on our trip as " captain of the dingj^ " " Misery," being the soul of good humor had received that cognomen by way of contradiction. It fitted so well that no other was thought of. f Canadian Mul.sn.mnie)' Krcamion. 25 He tived fed so During nearly every daj^" of our sailing, there were hours when our vessel glided smoothly along in the sunshine ; while Ernest, the skipper, held the helm^ an extempore table was made over the centreboard, on which lunch was spread or " pedro " played. The guitar would then come from its case under the (juarter deck, " Ninety's " flute joined in the melody, which floated over the waters, or he would tell us of the gallant dash with his battalion down the woody slope, where the rebel bullets were flying at Batoche. The skipper, too, had his yarns of the bay, and described a sad calamity which he had witnessed but a fortnight ago. A happy party of nine had come from Cape Croker in an Indian Macinac. The vessel had got safely into Wiarton Bay and lay in sight of wharfs and dwellings, when a sudden rushing wind coming down overturned her with the loss of seven of her passengers before help came. The days of 1812-14 were reujembered, when, after the naval engagements on Lake Erie, some of the war schooners came up to these waters, and the boom of their cannon and the shouts of warrioi^ were echoed back by the rocks of the North Channel and the lofty pines and spreading elms along the banks of the Nottawasaga. Then the hardy loyal voyageurs, and their painted and feathered allies, sped in swift canoes over these waters, hundreds of miles through the channels, past the Sault and St. Jcjseph, to attack the enemy at the Michillimacinac stronghold (a). (a) See chapter IV. 2 26 The Georgian Bay. Now each produced his book or pipe, or, when more socially inclined, gave a story or a song. While all were not equally placid in temperament, or agreed in opinion, it was in good time remembered that " Love is hurt with jar and fret." Little kind- nesses and constant consideration were shewn, and he was held a Jonah who disputed. Thus was avoided "The little rift within the lute, That, by-and-bye, will make the music mute And ever widening, slowly silence dll." (b) We were resting in the " White Squall " for the last night, in view of the lights of the Indian houses on Cape Croker. The moon shone over the water between us and the Cape. The dark green of the trees stood up as a wall behind. An anchor held our vessel's stern so that the waves passed by and broke monotonously on the shore. Jumbo, the little black spaniel, which had been our companion throughout the trip, and well guarded our belongings, lay curled on the deck. For a time the lights of the Indian houses glimmered and then went out. The moon, too, sunk down, Mars, Arcturus and the Pleiades, moved over head ; the tent above the deck protected our couch, and we thought of the lines of the Mohawk poetess Pauline Johnson : " O little lake with night-fall interlink't, Your darkling shores, your margin indistinct. More in your depths' uncertainty there lies Than when you image all the sun-set dyes ; Like to a poet's soul you seem to be, A depth no hand can touch, no eye can see. (b) Tennyson. Canadian Midsuwmer Excursion, 27 The next morning we prepared our attii*e for civilized society, then the anchor was hauled in, the sails were set, and with a light wind and many tacks, we made Wiarton in the afternoon. And now a few words as to the region traversed and its interests. m CHAPTER II. HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL. ©.%AVID THOMPSON was born in West- minster, England, oOth April, 1770, was educated as a " Blue-coat School " boy, and was perhaps a short time at Oxford. He entered the service of the Hudson Ba}'' Company, in October, 1789, and spent the main part of his life as a surveyor and astronomer, for that Company and the North- West Company, surveyed the shores of Lake Superior passed the Falls of Ste. Marie, in May, I. He again visited this region and surveyed the north shore of that lake in August, 1812. He then retired, living in Lower Canada for some time, employed in preparing a map of Western Can- ada on a scale of fifteen miles to an inch, which map is in possession of the Ontario Department of (>rown Lands, and is entitled " Map of the North-West Terri- tory of the Province of Canada, 1792-1812, embracing the region between latitudes 45° and 56° and longi- (28) » .'. ?y^- Histo7'ical and Oeo(jraphicuL 29 tudosSr and 124°, made for the North-West Com- pany, 1813-1814." Mr. Thompson then engaged in defining the bound- ary, on the part of Great Britain, between Canada and the United States. In 18:^7 he made a survey of the canal route from Lake Huron to the Ottawa River. He died in Longueil, opposite Montreal, on 10th of February, 1857 at nearly 87 years of age. H. H. Bancroft gives the following account of his personal appearance : " David Thompson was an entirely different order of man from the orthodox fur- trader. Tall and fine-looking, of sandy com- plexion, with large features, deep- set, studious eyes, high forehead and broad shoulders, the intellectual was well set upon the physical. His deeds have never been trumpeted as those of some others, but in the westward exploration of the North- West Com- pany, no man performed more valuable service, or estimated his achievements more modestly." (a) Mr. Thompson gives in his journals, now almost a century old, an account of the Georgian Bay, which he treats as the eastern part of Lake Huron. He also left a MS. treatise on the area and drainage of the lakes and rivers of the continent, and as this has not before been in print, we give the part relating to our subject as follows : " Lake Huron is next in order to Lake Superior, the discharge (a) A brief narrative of the journeyings of David Thompson in North- Western America, by J. B. Tyrrell, B.A., F.G.S. Proceed- ings of Canadian Institute, Vol. 24, 135. October, 18S8. % 30 The Georgian Bay, of this latter lake is by the Falls of Ste. Marie or more pro- perly rapids, of about three-quarters of a mile in length. Their descent is 15 ft. 10 in., which, with the current below, may give a difference of level of 17 ft., down to Lake Huron. The sides of this lake are, in places, of moderate height, but a great part of them is lowland. By a strait at Cabot's Head, it may be said to be divided into two lakes, the eastern part is called the Geor- gian Bay. The lake is remarkable for its great number of islands and islets. Of the former, several are large, they lie along the north shore, but the islets are in general small, of low rock, and very many not 100 yards square. Lieutenant Collins, y/ho was on the survey of the lake, counted 47,500 islands and islets. The islets lie so close on the east shore, southward of the French River, that the main shore is not known. The north part of the east side has also much copper oro, its value is not yet known, but accounted the best mine. At the north-west corner of this lake is the once far-famed Island of Michil-a-Mac-a-Naw (The great Tortoise). From its shape it commands the strait to Lake Michigan. The French very early erected a fort and a trading house. The Indians were then very numerous. The country everywhere abounded with game, to and beyond the Mississippi. However dispersed in winter, the then numerous tribes of Indians, early in sum- mer assembled in this island, at times to upwards of two thousand men. A great trade was carried on, French manufac- tures exchanged for furs, maize, maple-sugar, and some wild rice. The French fort was twice taken and destroyed by strategem. The Indians all declared they had never given permission to erect a fort, which was only a few neat log houses, surrounded by stockades of about 12 feet above the ground, sharp-pointed, with two gates. It was the depository of the goods of the fur traders, from whence they drew the supplies they wanted, as the fur trade required. It was natural to the French garrison to keep their gates closed when such an over- whelming force was on the island, but this the Indians did not pretend to understand, and it is curious to remark, that while % Historical and Geoyraphical. 81 the Indians destroyed the fort, the fur traders in their tem- porary cabins, covered with birch-rind, exposed to every turn of fortune, were respected by the Indians, not the value of a copper was taken from them. The fact is, that had the French garrison thrown open their gates and allowed the Indians free admission to hold their councils and consider the ground to be theirs, however builded upon, all would have been well. But the French brought garrison duty with theni, which the Indians could not understand. A.t the cession of Canada to England, the British took possession of the island, and its trade con- tinued as before, though the Indians were not so numerous, from the small pox, yet the trade was considerable, especially in maple sugar, which was made into what is called muscovado, a close imitation of the West India sugars. The area of Lake Huron is 14,862 square miles." The Georgian Bay has a length from north to south of one hundred and twenty miles. Its southern boun- dary is 95 miles by rail, north from Toronto, the capital city of the Province of Ontario. The 46th parallel of north latitude passes along its upper end ; on either side are the 86th and 82nd meridians of west longi- tude, its average breadth being 50 miles. It is separated from Lake Huron by the Saugeen Penin- sula and the Grand Manitoulin Island. Between these is a channel through which the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers and other vessels pass on their course to the upper lake ports. There is another passage, the North Channel, between the Grand Manitoulin and the north shore, and on this, at the north-west corner of the bay, is the Village of Killarney. The bay has, on its south shore, the important towns ■it ;i2 Tliv IJeoiy'uni Jin /J. t of Collingwood, Thornbury, Meaford, Owen Sound an