IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^O ^ s? A. './ A« €%* ^ ■^ 1.0 1.1 ■^ lii 122 2.0 us 14.0 IL25 III 1.4 h 0?^i X 5^ ^VTV'^ iC Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREIT WIBSTER.N.Y. MSN i7l6)S72-4S03 '^'°'^'1^ ^ VV^ ^ i'J' ' CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques r\^ Tschnicai and Bibliugrephic Not«s/Not«t tachniquas at bibliogiaphiquaa Tl to Tha Inttituta has attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy avaiiabia for filming. 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Tl P< of fil O b« th si o1 fil si oi Tl si Tl IV di ei b ri r( n This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de r6duction indiqui ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 7 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X / Th« copy film«.r > .ii#i'< ;.'i .^f'i .-if '!^???ir ps^— —"''*«■ ^H scs — ^^1 "*~"'TT" i^^H - ir \' i?' •.Sm- • !^^H ^ -1-^ W^^j m- ^ m^. ^. . ti •i'^Vf ^x* <^^*. ^^-^y^A^fe^^i^* -l^--^ ^^••.•^v*; i« . ^ nf.s Jf^;»<' ,,»!»S-;; I V; 1. H. if i4iillS ■r.J>' i.r^- DETWEEN ,?^:-7& HALIFAX. BERMUDA AND JAMAICA. > ^ » eculiar \ advantages of this route au a pleasure trip during the winter months, ' ^superior cabin accommodation being afforded by these steamers. The ] -^ , voyage to Jamaica can, if desired, be broken at Bennuda, and resumed by fmlowing steamer. ? S. CTTNAaD ft CO. Agents. \J, M. HAYWARD, ■ J i ''..,■•'■•'::'■■' Agent at Bermuda. i' FRITH MURPHY^ Ageivt at Turk^g liland. ■■i^'t::-?^ CSORCE aOLOMON & CO. Ag€}U8 at Jamaica, "Wv .■**. .*4A-,c- ■yxc.i. ■■". h ' ii^- J k oO MICA. nifl. onday for turning. 2nd CttWn. md 175. 50. 65. I)eculi»r months, rs. The resumed nts. HETIODIST BOOK ROOM, DEPOSltORY FOR Religtoss and Geseral literatnre, roosar ^m ujczzt szblm, ] Prayer Books, Ghuroh Servioos, Hymn Books, Ao. ■ The beat place in ihe Maritime Provinoes to hay LIBRARY BOOKS, PERIODICALS, And Other Sabbath School Becotias k^ersary astlse ion in lay be NavaJ a has many i the isons New rmer. Q as iphy mch U |U te ItiigitiA Ci|>i)'» »H l*ijl <' »ii : no f; SUMM^BR ARRAIIGeMEIiTf "WWKSGOm .1 FEIDaI SAttJRDAy MORNINGS at 7.30, conneoiiDg Ihem v|(|t tb« tnoiM for 9»Ii|i»3t. 1^. m. ■ on Wflf a| ff tnun iron* JMifok. , _ ... IieftTd toDiUMnMe svEUt ]]^at (Siuid*yb Mceepted) «i arrival of ttai» from Chariottotown, 4oiiii«o3i^|[ AlShtidiao with tratna for each <^ tin aban^-nanecl td||OBa; •nd al Si JolmwitH Slfsaaiaia of tho Iiitenuilioniil Gompaiii', fod Hailwi^a fov Poland apd Bonton, Abie.. Ua^a Cha^ |Qtt0k»Tfii for Sui^marKoe «v«pj, IfQNBAY HQI^Pra abooi 3 o'eloQ]^. r. > Aatilti^Bf , leay# Sliediao EVESBY DAt (Sm- days excepted) on arrival of day train from St. tfol^n, for Stimtiieiiide, connoctivg there with train for Charlottetown. Also leave SftmtQerside for CharlottetoWil every SATtJBBAY evening abotit 5 o'clock. ^ By order, '^ , \ birty .^e.''frZrS^» 't^nce <««.t.nt over J?« «^ctt raiJwav «v. Ji ^f ""action by rail wi^ mmtinent, although it hL* LJ^' ^"^ ^o«'n« on thi« finft T?*""' •'Nation of Halift, j •h^i- r* '*<>'' properly it^S** " eweedinrfy S^K^ K '^°i«»la for«K"i; ^--prises fh^ The width across th/m?iii ^"* *<>'the Bash. »««riyit8 average wMth^f'^i'' ""'' "Wch is ^l'^ 1™!?^'''""''^^" the 2eX"!'r J*"* »^*S^ ^-^^!n JTS:?^ nt-lr- BaSt a^r described is avaS foJ^bui7dt'" **' '"^ ^^«« a'readj , aWe streets, P^ks, pCr'^^^ST'^' '""'"^ 6«vujia8, «:a, on a regular '•tant over juently the sely dotted their own ot through ^at always ncctcd, by and pro- rail with ^ States, to these t been so > Of] this I healthy nated at eedingly ises the f on the r, called t. The proceed Basin, This xtreme Basin. pretty width West about Kroay e arm d ex- Bay. L:ouId '' site eady ifort- fular '■■*i- •'■ <^\ -/m- OAFE BBETON, BRAS FOR ■U ■' Steam Navigation Compaay. BIDE WHEEL 8TBAMBRS IMillON, NEPTUNE AND KAY QUEEN. *-; fi Tkese steamers leave Port Mulgrave, in ocnneetion with the trains arriving by the Halifax and Cape Breton liail way Company, every evening, thus making connection mjA^ all parts of Canada and the United States. Passing through Lennox Passage and the St Peter's Canal into the Bras d'(ir Lake, celebrated for its beautifUl scenery, and calling at East B&y, West Bay, Baddeck, Whycocomagh, and other lake ports, terminating at Sydney, C B., arriving there every morning via East Bay, and aftor- noon via Baddeck and North Sydney. The attention of tourists is called to this route, the scenery in the lake heing the finest in the Maritime Provinces. The Steamers ard fast and well found — good staterooms and excellent table. ' Qsasral Agsutt, HoUis Street, - HALIFAX, N« 8. »^<*n mne.. follatvjn^ tbe*.?„,M?.7"- ^'w* distance the exception namedT, .Lnit.*^ *« ««'«.ncerw?A «^<" " in front. , w ™?, *•"' good " hotdin* the harbor. It {, built fi^^L *"* Western shore of ^ hill, the snmmoi ZS^iTT '^"' "> »•>«»% Geo»»e. or the Citadi^ Tk ^^* "wmounted by FoVt when .een from Rpp2: fn"*'*"' *'«'»«'" ^ bM the prospect from QtadV „^r"»°wb. shore ; »tart* ahonlTfiiil to see. We LS . " ""' *•"'='' "«> ym the ramparts, orTutsirfl .^ '"Pl^se him there • 1 T\ *" ""« """tions ctst^wr*f' « »" angle £!• **»• ""d 'Pleading out more SX"'"'^' '«"'«th *■"* .North and South. i«the?„«"'''^'»n ^is either what » often, and proCblv Vi?r. .?*J'*>»<1 '' "es finest harbor in the worM "^ ^i • '^*' «"ed "the {?*«:;«''. »onnd-HkeGeor,^=f i^i "'.'"'' * «««. "» Fort_ aarlotte These^S, '^ ""* e«>wned by Mediterranean wrs-wretch * ""« « ever the Southwest, laving for m?i« .k*'^ '*> '^e right or gleaming through the dl7r; • ■'""»^-eay downs - nf ' *'"c»| seems to ctaiber uT^ ^*^^ "^ ^i*"^' from theloftysummitnf!^- ui'P «e steep hill 8M« »ow Playful/y nS?ni Id il^!;?« Y<> Aedoubl' and foaming'^waves. fver PofnT P ""« '■"• '•» <="S the more distant Thrum cfn.h ^'^^^nt ledges and •bout «ia. mile. 5s^?rb:ii::r'^''iT^^ icurred fn a distance •horc, its liter of a 1 a ledge •vigators ncc, with e«. piers, to admit ' holding fty~the ) of this shore of he slope by Fort ^ town is shore ; ^ich no n there I angle <:neath either it h'es \ "the em, is ed by r the Jt, or Nab's wns • riant Falk<» side ubt; ling and bro^ the AN ISTABUSHinaiT F(tt tf 6W and Bare Fla&ts. Nurseryman. OBEENHOUSE AND NUBSEBi, HALIFAX, N. 8. (BRANCH) FLORAL DEPOT, 30 DUKE ST. » m broad Atlantic. On the other hand, to the North* ward, this sheet of water contracts in width, forming what are called TAe Narrows, the shores of which are beautifully variegated with groves, green fields, and pretty clusters of houses. Pursuing the view still farther in that direction, we may catch a glimpse of Bedford Basin over the shoulders of the hills which form the Northern part of the peninsula. Turn to the rear or Westward, and Halifax Common spreads out from the base of Citadel Hill, an expanse which is, every year, being more extensively planted and otherwise improved, and will soon be a charming public park. This — more properly the North Com- mon—comprises, together .with the Public Gardens, an extent of about ninety acres. Of this area the Public Gardens comprise over fourteen acres. They are kept in f rst rate order, contain ponds and foun- tains, and a croquet lawn, and are a delightful public prom^ lade, and a great boon to the citizens of Hali- fax. Beyond this Common there extends, West, North, and South, a great and nearly level plateau, which will, doubtless, at no distant day, be the heart of the town, as well as of the city, of Halifax. The view in that direction is bounded by precipitous, wooded hills, beyond the deep gulch, at the bottom of which the Waters of the North West Arm cannot be seen from this point of view. Turning our eyes once ihore in the direction of the harbor, we see, on its farther shore, the pretty and thriving town of Dartmouth, built down to the water's edge, and backed by bold, wood-crowned hills, the slopes of which are (^tted with tasteful Villas, aiitl through one of the depressions of which we may catch a glimpse of the picturesque Dartmouth lakes. Indeed, in whatever direction the eye is turned from the point we have selected, it is met with a prospect of rare beauty. 9 THE TOWN. Halifax is very regularly laid out, the streets being, for the th Common is separated from the Gardena already refeited to only by Spring Garden Road and the range of private residences by which it is bordered. The greater part of it has been enek>sed as grounds for the Poors' Asylum, City Hospital, and Asylum for the Blind. It has recently been planted around its borders with shade trees, and can also boast of a very pretty piece of ornamental water ; but it is not regarded as a public promenade. The Totffif Wo&fkt iu the immediate viciuily of ^PTinipiviiPPP u Point Pleasant, the extreme Southern point of the city, is another favtnrite resort of the Haligontans, old and }'cung—for those who go ahixiad in their carri- ages, or un horseback, as well as for the pedestrian^ This ground, coajRising aboiit oiae liundred and sixty acres, is Crown Land, retained a&; such, under the contrd of the War Departmeipit, for defensive pnr*^ potfes ; and it embraces no less than five of these defensive works — four forts and batteries and a mar* te#o tower, from which Inst the woods have been Dinned. About 1874, however, the Imperial Govern- ment conceded the occupation of these grounds to the citizens of Halifax as a Public Park, for which they were admirably adapted, being, for the most part, covered by the primeval forest. Since that concession great improvements have been made in them, but without materially deteriorating from the beauties of their natural wildness. They now com- prise a real labyrinth of well constructed carriage drives, bndle roads and footpaths. The rambler in these Tower Woods may see, at almost every step, some new charm in their native wildness, — groves of stately pines, dense copses, sunny glades, shady dells, picturesque ponds, natural rock work, and beds of ferns and wild flowers, make up a beautiful diversity. This will be further varied by what is an unusual concomitant of park scenery — ^by his frequently, out of what seemed the depths of the forest, catching glimpses of the harbor, or North West Arm, with a white sail, or a panting steamer, passing in the dis- tance ; or by his suddenly and, if a stranger, most unexpectedly stepping out ot the dusk woods upon, some rock eminence, where he has a broad view of the ocean itself; or stranger still if he did not know the history of the ground, by finding himself con- fronted, at the end of some vista of greenery, by the frowning Prince of Wales Tower, or some massive r.nd heavily armed battery. The people of Halifax are very proud, and with good cause, of this park ; 12 and they have good reason to congratulate themselves upon its easily acquired possession. A few words may here be saici of the Drives in the environs of Halifax. One can scarcely drive out, upon any road in the vicinity, without meeting with much to charm the eye. For instance, that from Halifax, up the Wes^ side of the Basin, to Bedford, ten miles distant ; around the head and along the Western side of the North West Arm ; from Dart- mouth to Bedford by the East side of the Basin ; Dartmouth to Waverley, or Montague Gold Mines ; from the same place to the South East Passage ; — anv of these repa^ the tourist. 'The Fortifications, Barracks, and other military edifices and works in Halifax and its outposts, are so numerous and extensive that any attempt at a des- cription of them would require a chapter to itself, and one of greater length than we can afford in this small work. NOVA SCOTIAN RURAL SCENERY. It may be remarked generally under this head, that, as to fine coast scenery, portions of the coast of Novascotia surpass in the picturesque, and even in the grand, any others along the Atlantic coast of North America, from Labrador to the Gulf of Mexico. On the other hand, the scenery of the country in the interior is much more tame. Still it is much diversified with hill and valley, lake and stream, and nearly always a lu.nuriant vegetation ; but it is quite wanting in mountains, properly so- called, although there are numerous ridges and eminences that are locally so designated. The high- est land in the peninsula of Nova Scotia proper does not exceed twelve hundred feet above the sea level ; whilst the highest in the Island of Cape Breton scarcely attains three thousand feet. To g:ve as good an aspect of the country as can be given in a very limited space, we will suppose our-. SSSS89 13 selves to accompany the tourist iti his peregrinations through it. Starting from Halifax as a central point, we will first take the Atlantic shore West of that city. A steamer plies regularly between Halifax and the principal Western ports; but we will take the daily stage coach. Our first notable land-fall is at St. Margaret's Bay. The drive along the winding road, from East river to Hubbard's Cove, is a truly enjoyable one. Many of the coves which indent its rugged shore afford a prospect that would delight the heart of the enthusiastic sea bather. Heiv', when there is wind with " Southing " in it, we may see the crested wave in the distance come rolling in, as if it had come rolling direct from Bermuda, and break and ripple over an easily shelving beach of sands as white as the snow itself; It may be observed that there are scores of places on the various shores of Nova Scotia which offer much greater natutal attractions as watering places than any of thov^e fashionable spots on neighboring coasts, to which people of the interior of this continent are in the habit of resorting during the parching heats of their Summer. The bather can take a tepid bath and a day's swim in the upper waters of the Bay of Fundy — Minas Basin, or Chignecto Bay — or he can take his invigorator as cold as he likes on the Atlantic coast. But the natives residing at these numerous favored spots never seem to have thought of, or cared for, •'turning an honest pep.iy" by providing the artificial attractions which would not fail to make those places the Summer resort of thousands. A few miles after losing sight of St. Margaret's Bay, we come into view of Mahone Bay, and soon arrive at the pretty village of Chester at its head. This Bay, profusely stidded as it is with islands — some of them still clothed with the luxuriant foliage of their original forest, others smiling under a high state of cultivation — has been long and deservedly famed for its attractions of scenery. The drive, fol- ^f^ ! 11 14 lowing the sinuosities of its shores, from Chester to the Village iA Mahone Bay, or Kinburn, thence to the town of Lunenburg, thence to Bridgewater, at the head of navigation on the LaHave is throughout eharming. In Lunenburg and most of the rural set* tieraents of this count*/^ we begin to learn something of the diversities of population in No^'a Scotia. Here the people of German descent largely predominate .; and they have retained their language, habits, and modes m thought and of transacting business, As one consequence, the county town itself — Lunen burgh —whilst finely situated and a thriving place, is one of ^e quaintest old towns in the Province. In passing from Pictou, Antigonish, or Inverness, to Lunenburg, we virtually pass from the Highlands of Scotland into Germany ; as in Chezzetcook of East Halifax, the more Southiora secticn of Yarmouth, and Clare township in QIgfby we shall find most of the inhabit- ants more olcM»shioned French than the natives of eSd France. Bridgewater is a thriving and bustling little town, built up mainly by its lumber trade ; and the LaHave is one of the largest and finest rivers in the Province. From Bridgewater to the confines of Yarmouth County, the post road passes through a not very in- teresting country, except where it passes through the vallies of the numerous rivers which intersect this section of the Province. There we shall find exten- sive lumbering, cr ship-building establishments, or both, surrounded with ail the evidences of cultivation and prosperity. The principle places on our route are Mill Village, on the Port Medway ; Liverpool and Milton, on the Mersey ; Lockeport, from which the fisheries are extensively prosecuted, and to reach which we must make a detour from the more direct route ; Jordan River ; Sbelburne, upon her own noble harbor ; the Clyde ; and Barrington. After leaving Barrington, we meet with little of interest until we reach Pubnico. This is a large set- Id Date;» I, and . As burgH one of asstng nburgf lotland lalifax, I Clare nhabit- tivcs of e town. uaHave rovince. irmotttb very in- mgb the ect this d exten- lents, or Uivation ►ur route pool and hich the to reach yre direct >wn noble tlementi comprising; an almost cootiniiotis villi^i quite around its harbor, and throughout its whole length. The inhabitants are almost exclusively of French origin and form a very orderly, industrious, and well-to^o community. From Pubnico to the pretty village of Tusket, at the head of navigation, on the river of the sara6 nam«, winding around at the deep inleta of Abuptic, Argyle Saund, and the lower course of the Tusket river, we have before our eyes one continuous, ever shifting, and beautiful panorama. The waters thus skirted are begemmed with about three hundred islands, called " The Tuskets " These are of the most varied shaf ^ elevatiort,^ and diraen* sions ; many of them being in a high state of culti" vation ; others still covered, in whole, or in part, by luxuriant forest trees. Many persons-«and the wrikdr must admit himself among the number— ktop- sider that thii portion of Novaacottan coast scenery^ whilst c£ the same genera^^ character aa that of the more celebrated Mahone Bay, quite surpasses the latter in the richness and variety of its attractions. The Tttsket river itself is oite of the largest in Nova-^ sootiii»and in its course from the interior^ expanda into a niimbsr of l^ge and beautiful lakes. A twelve miles' pleasant drive brings us from Tu^et village to the town of Yarmouth. This exceedingly i enterprising town — which is now probably the sec* €md in Novascotia in population, as it is unquestion* [ably the first in the tonnage of shipping owned by jit, and that in a Province whose property so largely consists in shipping — is surpassed by no other in the {general tidiness of its aspect, the taste displayed in its buildings, and the general air of prosperity which reigns in and about it ; for the surrouncKng country, for miles in every direction, has that same air off [thrift. "The Western Counties Railway," that connects lYarmouth with Annapolis, the terminus of the "Windsor and Annapolis Railway." The line for the most part, runs through the back country, in the rear ot the post road ; it connects with the ports of Weymouth and Digby. Weymouth, the next place of note on our route, is a picturesque village at and near the mouth of the Sissiboo river, and carries on a brisk busincM in lumbering and shipbuilding. As in manv other in- stances, not only in Nova Scotia, but throughout North America, a strangely perverse arbitrariness has been shown in the naming of this place. It is called V\.ymouth ; bemuse it is not at the mouth of the Wey, but of the Sissiiboo, Digby is a very neat little town, bc^autiiuUy situated, and with very attrac* tive surroundings, it is built on the side of a rather steep hill, fronting upon,, and at the extreme Western termination of, that universally admired sheet of water, the Annapolis Basin. On the right and left respectively and on either side of the Basin, stretch the South and North Mountains as they are called^ the latter being close by, tr^.versed by the deep, nar- row, and wild-looking gc>rge known as St. George's Channel •*- vulgarly called "Digby Gut" — which affords the sole outlet from the Basin to the Bay of Fundy. Away over the waters in front may be seen Goat Island, which divides the Basin into two pretty nearly equal portions ; and the lower one of these is often called ** Digby Basin." This town is a iavorite summer resort of the people of St John, New Bruns- wick: and few more favorable summer residences could be found by any one in pursuit of health, or pleasure. From Digby we can proceed up to Annapolis by the steamer from St. John, which touches here three times a week — Monday, Wednesday, and Friday— on her way up to Annapolis, as also upon the three alternate days ; or we may still follow the post road by the South side of the Basin. The latter route will enable us to see the romantically situated village of Hillsburgh, chistered under lofty hills at the head 17 of navigatidn, of tbe River Herbert, and Clementtport filling a somewhat similar dell near the mouth of Moose River. At Annapolis we reach the termioui of the W. & A. R. This charming old town is even more interesting, for its historical associations, than for the beauty of its situations and environs. It is, in fact, the oldest town in America North of St. Augustine, in Florida, the founding of which latter place preceded it a few years. The old fortifications of the place, both Citadel and outworks, which were so often lost and won by their rival claimants, can still be easily traced ; find they indicate the sites of many a bloody encounter, in the days of old, between the French and Indians on the one side, and the English on the other. Here may be said to com- mence the celebrated Annapolis Valley, its termina* tion, being much wider than here, being at the shore of the Basin of Minas. in Kinjp^s County. Although the valley itself is almost a perfect level, the enclosing walls of the North and South Mountains, and especially the former, which rise abruptly from the plain and usually tp a^height of from four to five hundred feet, take away all appearance of tameness [from the face of the country. This charming valley I is, throughout its whole extent, cultivated like a gar- den. Indeed no small proportion of its total area [is actually taken up in gardens and orchards ; and [the fruits of this valley — apples, pears, plums, and of late, peaches — of which, especially the first, immense juantities are grown, have obtained a world-wide |celebrity for their excellent quality. The places of most note which we pass through on [leaving Annapolis by rail for the Eastward, are [Bridgetown, where the railway passes from the [Southern to the Northern 2ide of the Annapolis [river ; Lawrencetown ; Middleton ; Aylesford ; Ber- [wick ; Kentville, a beautifully embowered little town >f Kings County ; Wolfville, where is situate Acadia [Cdlege ; and Grand ?r6, which is the extreme East- trn point of what if called the "AhnapoHs Valley,** although more than half of its area is actually in Kings County. All these towns and villages give evidence of a high degree of cultivation, not only of the aoH, but of the tastes of those who dwell in them. Still this trip by rail can give but a faint idea of the productiveness of this valley. The view from any of «iiv^ eminences in the rear of Wolfville, or Grand Pr^, Northward, is very fine, taking in as it does the whole width of this end of the valley just referred to, the full sweep of the Basin of Minas with the bold headland of Cape Blomidon, the eastern termination of the North Mountains, and the range of the loftier Cobequid Hills in the remote distance. All the country hereabouts was called Minas under the old French domination ; ?nd it is here Longfellow has laid the principal scenes of his charming poem of Evangeline. Resuming our route, we cross the outlet of the lovely valley of the Gasperau : roll on to Hantsport, a to'Vn on the Avon which has grown rapidly into importance by virtue of its shipping interest ; and are soon in Windsor, the county town of Hants. This, one of the oldest towns in the Province, is finely situated near the confluence of the Avon and St. Croix rivers, in the midst of an agricultural country of exceeding fertility, afid carries on a large trade in gypsum, which indeed is exported in im- mense quantities from all the Northern parts of this county, as also from South Western Colchester. Hants is one of the principal ship-building and ship- owning counties in the Province. Windsor is the site of King's College, the oldest institution of its class in the Maritime Provinces. Froni Windsor to Halifax, the only places we need specially note are Ellershause, on the St. Croix, where a pretty and thriving manufacturing town has been built up in a few years through the energy and enterprise of one raani from whom it derives its name ; Mount Uniacke, "^ -^.--=, M-rasesr^wp" If where th^ touriit, if ditpoted, may visit the Uniuck« Gold minei, only three miles from the itation ; and Bedford, at the head of the Basin of that name, a j favorite spot of the Haligoniaus, in both Summer land Winter excursions. THE EASTERN ATLANTIC SHORE. Stage coaches leave Halifax, across the ferry, via [Dartmouth, three times a wev<^k, on the Eastern ihore route, returning on the alternate days. The :enery on this route is no whit less attractive [naturally than it is on the Western shore; but [thefe are no towns, nor even any considerable village'i there ; the general aspect of the country is wilder ; and, although one mav travel easily and lare cora-< fortablv, though plainly, on the road, this route it (scarcely Hkely to prove so attractive to the mere [tourist unless a sportsman. The first place which we will mention, although lore for the peculiarities of its inhabitants than lught else, is the French settlement of Chezsetcoek. 'his place, which indeed is not directly on the coacfaf foad, although not more than two miles from it, ap* roaches more nearly to the character of a villager -a large, straggling one — than any other that we can :e on this route. Here the iniitalMtants have retain- not only the language, religion, manners and cus- >m8, but also, the costumes, of their French ancestors. lere, within twenty miles of Halifax — and no where Ise in this Province, probably no where else in this )omtnion — may be seen the women all with theif lir dressed and covered with the kerchief, and wear^ ig the kirtle, all after the Noiman and Breton ishions of centuries ago. Crossing the Musquodoboii, a fine river which rises ^r inland and waters the largest and richest agricul* iral settlement in Halifax County ; ti^e Jedore, a lal armi of the sea, girt by lofty and gloomy clifis> reach Ship HBiix)r, which) even on this coast, so carinot but be admired at ^ magnificent one, and it if surrounded by picturesque landscapes. At a distance of only a few miles above the ferry, the Ship Harbor Great Lake — the second in the Province in size — empties, by means of Charles River, into the head of this harbor. Our next stage will be Tangier, cele- brated for its Gold Mines, and for having been the first place in Nova Scotia where gold was discovered. Along all this part of the coast, which the post road hugs pretty closely, the waters for many miles are profusely studded with islands of the greatest diver- sity of size and shape, some clothed with dense, dark vi'oods, others presenting only the naked rock, whilst only a very few of the larger ones are under partail cultivation. These islands make the principal charm of the ever varying view. Thus we may proceed and thus the eye will be continually greeted, past Pope's, Spry, Sheet, Beaver, Newdiquoddy, Nicumteau, to Ekumsekum Harbors, the land highway unfortunately becoming worse and worse, until — at the latter place, which is on the extreme eastern boundary of Halifax County — it ceases to be a road at all. The passage from there to St. Mary's, in Guysborough County, can only be made by water or on foot We will therefore suppose our return to Halifax. THE NORTHERN ROUTE. Leaving Halifax, this time, by the Intercolonial Railway, and passing Bedford again, we soon reach Windsor Junction, where the tourist has an oppor- tunity of easily reaching Waverly Gold Mines, which are onl^ one and a half mile distant. Remaining in the train and skirting along a few of the myriad of { lakes which are scattered all over this Atlantic coast section of Nova Scotia — those we now see contribut-l ing to the head waters of the Shubenacadie — we at length cross that river at Enfield and are in Hants i County again. From Enfield a road leads Eastwardly to the Oldham Gold Mines, four miles distant, in tl HalHait County ; another leads, in a Westward direc- tion, to Renfrew Gold Mines, six miles away, and in Hants County. Passing several other stations on the Intercolonial, we reach Shubenacadie Station, and there again crossing the river of that name, enter Colchester Countv. From this station stage coaches run daily to Maitfand, a thriving town at the mouth of the river. The character of the country, for some time past, has entirely changed, and more resembles what we left about Windsor. Rocks have quite dis- appeared, and we see on every hand a good cultivable soil, Crossing the Stewiacke, which, through its whole course, drains an exceedingly fertile and ; flourishing agricultural country, and leaving Brook- field behind, which is the centre of a like district, we [reach Truro. This town is situated about two miles [above the head of navigation of Cobequid Bay, and is surrounded by a more open country than can be seen [elsewhere in the Province. It is 6ften said to be the [prettiest town in the Maritime Provinces. This is matter of taste. It has certainly, ol late years, made more material progress than any other in Nova Scotia, and is now probably the third tSwn in the I Province in population. It is rather straggling than [compactly built, upon ground almost perfectly level [throughout, flanked by cultivated hills on the one [side, and by broad intervale lands, gradually changing [to dyked marsh, on the other ; is very regularly laid >ut ; and is well and, for the most part, tastefully >uilt. Notwithstanding its inland situation, and the ibsence of any natural water power, it has lately be- come one of the most considerable manufacturing towns in Nova Scotia. It is the county town of Col- rhester and seat of the Provincial Normal and Model khools. It is the point of junction of the Pictou branch Railway with the Intercolonial. Stage :oaches leave here — and return — twice a day for laitland and intervening villages, and daily for 'atamagouche. Truly magnificent views are io be « liad^mii name of the hills East and North-East of Truro, spots which few tourists fail to visit. Oq the Intercolonial again and crossing the fine agricultural township of Onslow, we reach. D^bert Station, from which stage coaches start daily for Folly, Great Village, Portaupique« Economy, Five Islands, and Parrsborough, following the North Shore of Cobequid Bay and the Basin of Minas. No scenery hunter should toil to visit at least the last two, which present to view coast scenery not surpassed, if it is equalled, in North America. But they can be reached by another route, as will be presently shown. — At Londonderry station stage coaches ply daily to the Acadia Iron Mines ; and a short distance beyond, a branch railway* of -about 4 miles, leads to those Mines» where the largest iron mining and smelting operations of the Dominion are being carried on. From this point, the view even from the car windows, wi^dintg up and across the summit of the Cobequid Hiii% is often very iine. From W^n^worth Station^ stage coaches leave daily for Wallace, Tatamagouche, and Fugwash; from Thompson's, they leave daily for Pugwash, sAso for Westchester, in the opposite direc- tion ; from Athol Station stage a)aches leave for Parrsborough, from which there is easy conveyance to Five Islands, mentioned above. Besides the natural attractions of the localitiissi they present a fine field of study to the student of mineralogy. In their vicinity, gems, such as are usually found in the Trap formations, may be found in abundance; whilst the facilities for sea bathing are of the veryi best. From Athol, too, a branch railway, taps the! Spring Hill Coal Mines ; and continued to the Poi of Parrsborough, just named, about eighteen miles! further. Maccan Station on the Intercolonial, is thei point of departure for Minudie, the Joggins Coall Mines, and others of the sort ; for we are now in thej midst of the grv^t Cumberland coal basin. NextJ we aie at Amherst, t^e County town of Cumberland,] ia bustling and prosperous town, the centre of a {Widely extensively agricultural and grazing district, kipon the trade growing out of which it is mainly de- tjiendent, altliough manufacturing is also carried on [to some extent. Between it and the head of the [Ch^netlo mrm of the Bay of Fundy, some miles dis- [tant, and stretching thence in every direction, are ist expanses of dyked marsh, which constitutes the fat of the land. The country around is open ind breezy. A few miles beyond Amherst, we reach ^he Mrsstguash, the boundary of New Brunswick, id once recognized, for some years, as the boundary )etween the domains of England and France — ^the lag of the former waving over the Fort Lawrence lide of the stream, whilst that of France flaunted rom Beau Sejour, on the opposite, or farther ridge of until the sun tier o( 1755, when a British force, mder Col. Monckton, crossing the Missiguash at ^ott de Buot, •' Buot's Bridge " — a. name which, to le mystification of many as to its origin, has since ien corrupted into " Point de Bute" — after a short ^nd sharp bombardment by the French fort, com- piled its unconditional surrender. From that tia}e hau Sefouf became " Fort Cumberland *' ;astern and cape breton counties. We will suppose ourselves again in Truro and em- irked on board the Pictou Branch Railway. The rst portion of the journey, after leaving Truro, passes the beautiful valley of Salmon River or — as it is >metimes called ol late — the "Teviot." In its mtral position, the line passing through what was It wilderness a few years since, affords little of in- :rest to the sight seer. On nearing New Glasgow, )wever, we find ourselves in the midst of the great [ictou Coal Bash) ; and we are surrounded by life id animation on every side. This district can boast the fact that one at least of the coal seams worked it has a greater thickness than any other known ■■■I ■Wi 24 in the world. New Glasgow is an active and pros- perous business town, largely engaged in manufac- tures, in vrhich it is favored by being situated almost in the midst of so many collieries. A few miles further brings us to Pictou Landing, from which we reach Pic- tou, Gfn the opposite or north side, by a steam ferry. Pictou is prettily built upon the rather steep slope of a hill, and makes its best appearance when seen from the harbor. Certainly, until very recently, this town was the second in the Province in population and wealth ; and it is so yet unless it has been outstripped by Yarmouth. A large fleet of colliers always occupy its harbor during the season of open navigation ; but outside of the profits thus incidentally brought into the place, Pictou carries on a thriving and diversified trade of its own. Steamers of the P. E. Island Steam Navigation Co. (see adv.) leave Pictou every Mon- day, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday morning for Charlottetown, P. E. I., returning same day ; every Monday and Thursday morning for Hawkesbury, on the Strait of Canso ; every Wednesday and Friday morning for Port Hood ; and every alternate Saturday for the Magdalen Islands. The tourist has therefore a choice of routes to the island of Cape Breton ; but by returning to New Glasgow and taking the Halifax and Cape Breton Railway he will be able more conveniently to visit Antigonish and Guysborough Counties. The former, although comparatively a new county, is not surpass- ed in its agricultural capabilities by any other in the Province. It is exceedingly fertile and productive, and is being brought rapidly under cultivation. The town of Antigonish has been thought to bear a re- semblance to Truro in many points, but it is much smaller. It is the residence of the (R. C.) Bishop of Arichat, and is also the seat of St. Francis Xavier College. Stage coaches run from here to Guysborough. There is also a public conveyance to Sherbrooke, St. Mary's. Referring to the latter first, iT-nrifnniwmiii ff H B 25 STEAMSHIP LINE •ff the ftltawliMl Vmt-ClMs "GARBOLL," i>400 xjm, a. H. BBOWN, OomcAirDn, ASTD "WOROESTEE," 1,400 Tom, BLENKINSHIP, Gommano^b, [Having Excellent Passenger Accommodations^ Mid vum mcKERsors mm «LTEiiuiaY \mi wma mm m msoi a u noi, lAninilff in HALIFAX ai Daylight, Moua^f Moraing^ T»OET HAWKBSBURY, early Tuanday MovSing, PIOTOU, Tuesday Foiwoon, and CIBARLOTTBTOWN, TiMMday Aftonoon. lYe GHARLOTTETOWN every Thuraday a>»-.- |U5 GRANVILLE STREET, HALIFAX, H. 8. -«8 't I t! a fair wiqd tq do sq^,. It is a magnificent piece of water, well set off b^ the villages of Port Mulgrave and Pirate Cove, on the peninsula side, and those of Port Hastings and Hawkesbury on that of the island ; whilsl Cape Porctipine, towering up on the West side of the Strait, gives a certain grandeur to the scene. This bold headland rises sheer up from the water to a height of about six hundred feet, and is as nearlv perp»idlcular as it can be to sustain vegetation at all It .pristles, however, from water's edge to sumiptt, with iei dense growth of forest trees ; and its appear- ance has not inaptly suggested the name by which it is popularly known. Whoever has not seen Cape Breton has failed to see the grandest and most picturesque scenery which the Province of Nova Scqtla can produce. To the genuine lover of Nature, or the artist, it is a truly delightful land. To attempt a description of all the !ocami|»i wortSy (A a' visit by Either would be quite impossible within the limited soepe of tills work, for their name is legion. At least we can but name some of the most noteworthy and indicate the modes of reaching them. And first, the Brais d'Oy-f-thik truly magnificent sheet of watpr — this ^all inlUnd sell, ^th its shores, would alone justify what we have just said. The two channels which lead to it from the ocean» the great Lake itself, and every one of its numerous inlets, have each and every one its own peculiar charms. Sta^e coaches run daily from Hawkesbury to Port Hood, to Sydney via St Peter's, also, when required, to the head of West Bay ; aiid fn)m the latter point the Cape Breton, Bras d'Or Steam Navigation Co's. (s^e adv.) steamers take their departure every day for Sydney via the Great 2ras d'Or channel. The same steamers mak^ the trip from Sydney to Why- eocomagh every morning. Good opportunities are thus afforded of seeing a large portion of these waters and their thoresj but the tourist could do IMGAfiO BBOTBEGS, 218 BoUli StiMt, - - BdiluE, ir.-S. steam and Hot "Water Engineers, COPPERSMITHS, PLUMBERS, AC. Mid Oopptr IMt for Znsiatwt', SluitaiP and VesMla' nit. ALSO— Maehmery f«r Mills, Mines, Fiotories, etc., madtt and fitted up. Public Buildings, Churches, Factories and Beddenees supplied with Steam and Hot Water Heating Apparatus. Hot Air Furnaces and Plumlung Fixtures. .^1 Importers of Cast and Wrought Iron Pips and Fittings, Pumps, Sliest Lead, Lead Pipe, &o. ••i« rmmrmunmwM kwm MAwnAcnnnns ev LoisraARDS Patent Improved Hot Water Boiler, FOR WARMINQ BUILDINGS. Il^l ^ ilil WV this more thoroughly and tatittactorily by engaging a boat for himself, and making the voyage of the Bras d'Or and every one of its numerous inlets. An^ong the places well worth visiting must be me*ntion^ Mabou, which may be reached by stage coach from Port Hood. From here the tourist may proceed by like conveyance to Margaree; and to see the lovely vallies of this river and of its branches — the North-Ea^t and South-West Margaree — is itself well worth a special visit to this island. There is at present no public conveyance proceeding North- wardly beyond the main Margaree. Consequently the traveller, if disposed to extend his journey in this direction, either towards Cheticamp, on the Gulf, — where there is another old Acadian French' settlement, and where, bv the bye, there is one of the largest and finest stone (R. C.) churches in the whole Province — or across country to the Wagamatkook valley, in Victoria County, he must procure a private conveyance. This he can accomplish without diflfiT culty at Margaree. He may in like manner proceed by Lake Ainslie and Ainslie Glen to Whycocomagb — a delightful drive ; or he can reach the fatter point by stage coach either from Mabou, via Skye Glen, or from Hawkesbury and Port Hastings. The village Cyf Whycocomagb itself is a lovely spot, nestling be- '^'^ath precipitous, wooded mountains, and overlooking a broad and deep expanse of placid water, doited with green islands, we can proceed from here to Baddeck by steamer, as already mentioned ; or we can go by stage coach, seeing by the way portions of the broad, fertile vallies of the Wagamatkook, or Middle River, and Big Baddeck River. Baddeck, the county town of Victoria, is finely situated on an islanded inlet of the Bras d'Or, and» with its surround^ ings, shares largely in the natural attractions of this part of the island. When, winding farther Eastward, we reach the deep bay and magnificent land-locked harbor of §t. Anna's, bacli^ by hills so lofty and 81 mn, losTOH iiD m m. The S. S. ALPHA, JA8. IL 0A7ZS, ICafttr, jwm sail from DeW(^8 Wharf; Halifta, and {Lewis Wharf, Boaton, on Thursday, making (fortnightly trips, on the following dates, calling, ;oing and returning, at .iNiaiibiirg, Port Medway, Liverfiool, Look«port; Shelburnri and Barrlngton : LEAVE HALIFAX THURSDAY, JUNE Hth, at 6 a. m. II BOSTON, II 2l8t, at 8 »* HALIFAX, II S8th, at e (1 BOSTON, JULY 6th, at 8 II HALIFAX, II 12th, at 6 «« BOSTON, II 19th, at 8 (1 HALIFAX, 41 26th, ate II BOSTON, AUG. 2nd, at 8 l< HALIFAX, •I 9th, at 6 II BOSTON, II 16th, at 8 II HALIFAX, II 23rd, at 6 « BOSTON, II 80th, at 8 « HALIFAX, SEPT. rtOt at 6 II BOSTON, II 14th, at 8 <1 H/iLlFAX, II 2lBt, ate lace, as indeed the whole of Isle Madame and much of the neighbouring main, those of French origin largely predominate. Arichat is a prosperous tovirn, its prosperity depending almost solely upon the fisheries and the carrying trade. Consequently there is a pronounced marineair about the place. Lennox Passage, between the Isles Madmea and Jauvrin, and the mainland of Cape Breton ,is a beautiful sheet of water ; and a boat excursion upon it, a most enjoyable one. It leads, at its western termination, to the Basin of River Inhabitants near the shores of which are the Richmond and Caribacou Cove collieries. We are now at the Strait of Canso again, and shall suppose our tour completed. ■" I ' ' ' ■'■■II !■» .1 I Ijlll ^1 . II I ■■■ THE STRAlsraEHS' auii>E2 TO English and American Bookstore. This old wid well-known BOOK and STATIONERY esUbliah- meat is on Ommville Sferaet, llie iMinoipal butiaaift thotovu^art ci Halifax (No. 124), only » lew mmuter walk from tlie Waverlqr, Halifax and International Hotels, and is quite close to the Post Offide. -— 00M8TANTLT IN STOCK : POCKET MAP8 & TRAVSLUNC GUIDtS, Titwa of tha CHtT (StiNMOQpio), Tlsva of tlM ait7 CnotofMyMo), * VIETO OF CANADIAN SOBNERY (PHOTOORAPHIO). ■■\, :v BOOKS IN EVERY DEPARTMENT OF UTERATiWE. Bibles, Prayers and Church Services. SEASIDE and FRANBXIN SQUARE LIBRARIES. Photofradbio Albums, Scrap and Aut<^rrapbio Albums ; Gold Pens and Holders ; Purses and rocket Boolu ; Card Oases, Ladies' and Gents' ; Stationery of all kinds. TVo. 194: O^rariiviUe Stareet. .-'i^m: ST. JOHN. St. John, the " Liverpool of America," and the first city in New Brunswick in population, wealth and commercial importance, is commandingly situated at the mouth of the River St. John. The eastern side, or city proper is built on the sides of a rocky penin- sular, with the river and harbor on one side, and Courtenay Bay on the other side. In this part of St. John are the public buildings, and most of the business houses. The settlement on the west side is called Carleton. To the left is Portland pleasantly located. The situation of St John is favorable. Its harbor is at the mouth of a river which, with its tributaries, has an almost uniterrupted navigable lenght of over eight hundred miles for steamers ; and a further navigable length for boats or canoes of about a thousand miles more ; and its entire freedom from obstruction by ice gives it great advantage over all the northern ports of this continent. At the entrance to tLe city is Patridge Island, circular in shape rising about seventy or eighty feet abov ^'>w water, and contains about one hundred acres o\ land. On the Island is a fog horn or steamer wtiistle, which is sound- ed at regular intervals during the prevalence of fogs or snow storms, and can be heard at a distance of from four to eight miles. On the Island is a battery and a signal station ; also an hospital for the treatment of contagious diseases. Below Patridge Island and the city is a beacon light which is of great use to vessels entering the harbor in strong weather. The princi- pal streets of St. John are King, Prince William, Water, Dock and Charlotte. King street, the Wash- ingtoa Atreet of St John, extends from the river on i 1 III' 36 western side of the city to Courtenay Bay on the eastern side. Looking up Kine street, the entrance to King square, a beautiful plot of land containing about three acres, and covered with large shade trees. In the centre ot the square is a fountain. Some fine buildings are to be seen on each side of the square. On the eastern side is the Court House, in which is the Common Council chamber. On the same side of the square as the Court House, is the '* Old Bury.- ing Ground," one of the tombstones of which bears the following quaint epitaph : Now I am dead and in my grave, And all my bones are, rotten ; Those lines you -may see remember me When I am quite forgotten. Queen Square is another public park, surrounded by handsome residences. On Germain street The new Port Office is one of the finest structures in the city. It is located at the corner of Prince William and Princess streets, extending back to Water street, at the end of Prince William street is Reed's Point, where the wharves oi the International S. S Company are located ; the Union Line running to Digby and Annapolis ; the Express Line, to St. George, St Andrews and St Stephen, N. B., sttid whe Anchor Line of ocean steamers. Among the handsome and important public build- in St John may be mentioned the General Public Hospital, capable of accommodatidg eighty patients. To the right is situated the Roman Catholic Cathedral on Waterloo street, opposite Richmond and near the corner of Cliff street It is built of stone, is two hundred feet in length by one hundred and ten in width, and cost |licx),ooo. To the left is the Nunnery and on the right the Bishop's Palace, a handsome stone structure ; adjoining it is the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylym. The skating rink is on City road, almost in rear of the Hospiui. It is a wooden build-^ [>n the itrance taining e trees, ne fine square, rhich is ; side of ,d Bury*- 1 bears ing circular in shape and one hundred aiid sixty feet in diameter. It cost ^13,600. The connection between Portland and St John is so close that it is difficult to tell where the one begins or the other ends. The streets are somewhat irregular ; Main street being the finest and busiest Turning to the left down Bridge Road, after a ride of about a mile, during which we were favoured with some delightful bits of scenery, we reached the SUSPENSION BRIDGE. which spans the Rocky gorge, six hundred and forty feet in width which the waters of the St John River find their way into the ocean. The bridge is a " wire suspension," hung on ten cables, five on each side, each cable bein^ composed of three huudred strands of wire one'Cightof an inch thick each, or three thousand strands in al^hk^hg an absolute tensile strength of 1 1 25 tons. Th^i^ofnbined length of the strands is about five hptidr^ and seventy miles. The cables are supported by four towers of solid masonry, fifty- three fetit high,1if^en feet square at the base, taper- ing off td seven feet at th^ top. The bridge was built in 1852, at a cost 80,000. Height above low , water, one hundred feet ; above high water seventy two feet THE FALLS. at the mouth of the St John, are not " falls " in the ordinary acception of the term ; they result from the narrow and shallow outlet through which the tide, which rises with great rapidity, and to an altitude of twenty eight feet, has to pass. The outlet is suffi- ciently broad or deep to admit the tidal waters with their rise, hence a fall inwards is produced during the at the ebby the tides recedes faster than the outlet of the river can admit of the escape of the ; waters accumulated within the inner basin ; hence a [fall outward. The falls are passible four times ia "^r mm 38 liil twenty-four hours, ai^i^t fiftcfen minuftes at each time, viz.: at abeut three and one half hours on the flood tide, and at about two and one-half on the ebb, when steamers^ sailing vessels and rafts pass up or down beneath the bFidg«;. About a mile above the bridge, on the eastern side of the river, is INDIANTOWN, a thriving suburb of the city of Portland. The Lunatic Asylum occupies a height of land at the western erid of the bridge, and presents an imposing appearance from whichever side it is approached. It was erected in 1848 by the Provincial Government. The main building is three hundred feet long, with three wings, one at each end, one hundred and fifty feet long» and one from the centre, one hundred and thirty feet in length. One hall of the building is devoted to male and the other to female patients. The average number of patients is twc| hundred. There are numerous drives in the vicinity of St. John, which we have not space to describe. Among them is that to Spruce Lake, seven or eight miles on the Manawagonish road. Down the Bay Shore to Mispeck, starting biy crossing March Bridge, we soon arrive at the Poor House, a large four-storey brlld- ing. Continuing the drive a distance of aboat eight miles, sometimes through a rich farming country, and again amid the wildest and most rugged scenery imaginable — now along the sea beach, with the waves rolling almost up to our horse's fe^, and then perched hundreds of feet above the waten, we arrive at Mispeck, a lovely spot, rich in scenes worthy the attention of all tourists, and enough to drive an artist mad. - Another favorite drive is to Loch Lomond, where there is excellent fishing. There are three lakes in the Loch Lomond chain. St. John abounds in churches, as, with a population of Urn than 40^000, it has 33 houiea of worship 1 '' if,-- [J ST. JOHN RIVER. With opera^ glass we take a farewell view of the city, sweepiug aur vision round the falls, and upward towards the high bluffs, through which the river flows. Two or three miles up we encounter the Boar's Head or Green Head, with its nose running out into the water. A little farther, and to the right, the passage to the Kennebecasis opens, (here is where the boat races are made) and to the left South Bay is seen. Nerepis Poiut will be of interest, as the place where one of the first forts was built Anon comes a stretcfi of twenty miles, this is Long Reach — not without many picturesque scenes on the shelving hills. At Oak Point, a little village with a church, we stop the engine to take on a passenger ; and the mode of re- ceiving and debarking passengers on the river is a novel one. Sttiall boats put out in response to our whistle, and are " boat