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By .[. ¥, FLr)YD .•iwMu-*- '?/ ' iifia/ Muif f Do A' he Saved/' ''Modern Do.f'an-^ C ^ItCAGO CHARLES H K£-.KK & COMFANtY 56 FlfTH A'KNUE I&96 ^^ M *^^: ':^v-<' XX. Among the Ro.val Mummies 12I XXI. Among the Mosques and Bazaars 125 XXII. From Egypt to Palestine 131 XXIII. Landing at Joppa 13(5 XXIV. In Joppa j4q XXV. Going Up to Jerusalem J45 XXVI. In Jerusalem 2.53 ■1 '^ CONTENTS " LETTER p^Qg XXVI I. Iiisido the WhIIh 15H X XVI 1 1. A Viwit to the Traditional Calvary \{\4 X XIX. A ViHit to the True Calvary 17 j XXX. Down to Jericho [j^ XXXI. A Visit to the Dead Sea i84 XXXII. A Visit to the .Ionian 190 XXXIII. A Visit to liethleliein jjjj XXXIV. In tlie Cluireli oi' Ihe Xativity 202 XXXV. Walks About .lerusaleni 208 XXXVI. From Jerusalem to Xaples 210 XXXVII. Seein.s? Naples 222 XXXVIII. A Wallc Throuji^h Pompeii 228 XXXIX. Climl)ing Mount Vesuvius 282 XL. So We Went Toward Rome 240 XLI. From Rome to Paris 2.50 XLII. From Paris to London 25.') XLIII. From London Home 261 XLIV. Conclusion 265 I / r / i i 1 1 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. LETTER I. MAKING THE START. The start was made from Lexington, Kentucky. Kentucky was my native state. It was the home of my wife's parents. On June 10, 1876, I had gradu- iftted in the College of the Bible, Kentucky University, and the pleasant memories of my closing school-days were still fresh in my mind. Lexington, therefore, seems to be the appropriate starting-point for sucli a tour. It was on October 24, 1882, that we bade farewell to our friends, took our seats in the train at the Lexington depot and started westward on our long journey, with only a vague idea of how and when the journey would be finished. But Providence fa- vored us, and as we traveled from point to point during week8,months and years our idea gradually took more definite shape, until finally our long cher- ished hope was fully realized in making the complete circuit of the globe. I need only briefly describe our rapid ride across 9 iMk ^t) OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD Hie greater portion of the American continent. A journey through the United States is now an every- day occurrence, and many people have become famil- mr with the scenes along the various railway lines leading from the Atlantic to the Pacific Coast. We took the southern route to San Francisco passing through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and South- ern California, We admired the fertile plains of Kansas and other states, and were delighted with the scenery as we went zigzagging over the southern spurs of the Kocky Mountains. We took special notice of the odd looking towns of New Mexico. We saw tons of red pepper. They prepared it for drying in the sun by spreading it on top of the flat-roofed mud houses of the Mexicans, or stringing the pods on poles and strings. Verily the Mexicans are fond of hot food. In Arizona we were interested in the half savage Indians and their wigwams. These fierce look- ing red men were clothed in primitive style They had adopted mother Eve's costume,except that a piece of cotton cloth the size of a pocket handkerchief,ad- justed about their loins, had taken the place of the fig leaf. Sometimes this simple costume is supple- mented with a trailing strip of red material danglin- from the rear belt, like the tail of a monkey. These people will not, however, supply the Darwinian "missing link." Yuma City, situated on the eastern bank of the Colorado River, which divides Arizona from California IS a peculiar town. The people are mostly Indians i'.. i MAKING THE START H and Mexicans, and their hoiiHes are built of sod or adobe. The houses are one story liigli, flat-roofed and covered with layers of poles. Over the poles are spread cloth or raw-hide, and this is covered by a layer each of willows and dirt. On all sides of these houses are verandas, projecting from ten to twenty feet, also built of poles, the whole being surrounded with fences made of poles set in the ground, close together, and secured by strips of raw-hide. The houses and fences present a very ragged appearance. We were equally interested in tha Giant Cactus,' also called the ''Boss" cactus of the world, which is peculiar to these southwestern deserts. Before ap- proaching the Gila River we passed through a vast expanse of desert country, known as the Gila Desert, inhabited solely by rattlesnakes, lizards, owls and woodpeckers. This is the home of the "Boss" cac- tus. It is a veritable tree. It rises from the ground in the shape of a huge cone, and frequently reaches the height of sixty feet, with a diameter of three feet near the ground. Some of these great cacti have a number of smaller cones which branch out from the main trunk at different heights and shoot up parallel to it. Each cactus produces one blossom annually, on top; and it yields a kind of fruit much prized by the natives. On crossing the river at Yuma City, we entered Southern California and plunged into the Colorado Desert, a succession of barren sandhills as far as the eye could see. It was a welcome relief to emerge from this ocean of sand and enter the beautiful country about Los Angeles. i 12 otIR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD Our arrival at San Francisco was announced by the noise and general uproar of the cab drivers and hotel ruiiners. We remained a few days in the city, an.l visited the principal objects of interest We in quired of our hotel-keeper for China Town. He said 'Can t you smell it?" We had no dilficilty in fin.ll i"g .t, riglil in the heart of the city, and then we realued tie loroe of the gentleman's significant re- mark^ We visited Fort Point, and examined the guns that command the entrance to the Golden Gate VVe drove along the fashionable drive of San Pran^ CISCO to the Clitr House,on the ocean beach six miles west of the city. We passed through Golden Gate 1 urk, which contains 1, 100 acres. Standing on the veranda of the Cliff House, which overhangs the water two hundred feet high, we looked out on the heal Rooks, some five hundred yards away These are three small, steep, rocky islands on which were several large seals, sunning and disporting them- selves, and making a noise that reminded one of the bray of a donkey. It is a sight which many people go a long distance to see. ■> f i From San Francisco we took a coasting steamer to Portland, Oregon, and thence to Monmouth by rui Here for two years I was editor and pu blishej^ of the Christian HERALD.a sixteen-page weekly relig- ious paper, that had been in existence several year. At the expiration of this term the Herald possesseVi he largest list of subscribers during its history, ha.l become an acknowledged power for good on the Pacific Slope and was loyally supported by the peo- „ MAKING THE START 18 pie. For a number of years T had also been one of the editors and proprietors of the Faithful Witness, which was first published at Fayetteville, Arkansas, and was afterwards removed to T()|)Hka, Kansas, where it was successfully continued after I disposed of my interest in it. It was while laboring in Oregon that the way was opened for us to continue our journey. We received an urgent and hearty call to preach for a church in Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, and imme- diately we made our arrangements to go hence. We returned to San Francisco by sea; and on Monday, February 16, 1885, at two o'clock, we were driven by friends to our steamship, the Australia, turned our backs on our native country, steamed through the Golden Gate and thus started in earnest on our long voyage. i LETTER 11. FROM THE GOLDEN GATE TO THE PARADISE OF THE PA- CIFIC. From the Golden Gate to Honolulu is about 2, 100 miles, in a southwestern direction. Our steamship was seven days covering the distance. The voyage was a pleasant one. The overcoats and ladies' wraps whicJi we found necessary to protect us from the chilly, foggy weather of San Francisco were laid aside as we gradually entered the milder, sunshiny cnuate of the Pacific. We stood on deck gazing at the American continent till it faded from our view IJieu we were sad. But when we turned our faces westward, the prospects of treading new lands and mingling with strange peoples made us glad. The smooth sea, the bright sky and the bracing air seemed to whisper, ''The God of love and peace shall be with you," end all sense of fear and homesickness was dispelled. At sunrise on Monday morning we saw a speck on the ocean. This was land on the Hawaiian Islands There was a stir aboard, and all eyes were turned on the distant object whose outline was fast assuming more definite shape. Soon we saw the white break- ers tumbling over the coral reef that encloses the harbor. We passed in through the opening in this 14 PROM THE GOLDEN GATE TO HONOLULU 15 reef, and made fast to the pier at Honolulu. As we slowly approached the wharf a number of native men and boys interested us by swimming about the sides of our boat and diving for coins tossed into the sea by the passengers. They never failed to take the coin before it reached the bottom. These natives are expert swimmers, and are particularly fond of the water. The passengers had only two hours at their dis- posal. We were soon on shore to see the sights. We procured a carriage, and an American guide who could also speak the native language, and drove off through the city. We were delighted. Everything seemed so strange and inviting. Were we suddenly transported to fairyland? No; but we were in the midst of a city of some twenty thousand inhabitants whose streets were everywhere densely shaded with beautiful tropical and semi-tropical trees, and the homes of whose people were embowered in flowers of great variety, whose fragrance floated to us on the air. There were the tall cocoanut palms with their graceful fronds; date palms, royal palms, banana trees, breadfruit trees, India rubber trees, umbrella trees, and other trees too numerous to mention; and from many of these trees were hanging clusters of ripe nuts and golden fruit. The streets, laid out in the American style, are straight and neat. The city is situated at the mouth of a beautiful valley, close to the sea, and has for its background extinct craters, tall clilfs and moun- tain peaks, the last named being three thousand feet 10 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD high. We saw the Government houses, the King's paljice, the Queen's palace, the college buildings, the music hall, the ice works, the Catholic cemetery, St. Thomas' park. Queen Emma's gardens, the Queen's hospital, and the principal churches. In short, we saw here in the limited time allotted to us all' the things that go to make up the necessaries and even luxuries of civilized life. And lastly we drove to the Leper Hospital, in which I was most interested. Here were one hundred and twenty-four lepers, three of whom were white men, the others being na- tives. They represented all stages of the loathsome disease. The fingers of some and the toes of others were dropping otf at the joints, while the faces of still others were much disfigured. It was a repulsive siglit, and one never to be forgotten. We were shown through the hospital by Roman Catholic women who seemed enthusiastically devoted to their work of superintendence. They pointed out the lepers' beds, the large dining hall and table and the basins out of which they ate their principal food, called j^oi, made from the native palo root. We admired the courage of these women. As we were returning to our boat our attention was attracted by the long, white, flowing robes of the native women on the streets. A number of girls were riding horseback, of which they are very fond. We were surprised to see that the "new woman" had reached Honolulu at this early day— these girls were riding astride. Our drive amidst such beautiful surroundings was FROM THE GOLDEN GATE TO HONOLULU l7 very enjoyable, the climate Jiere hnus: almost per- fection The extremes of h.^ui and cu]eigi,t at times of 700 feet, illuminating the eur! rounding country by night 200 miles away, like the noonday sun. A river of fire has repeatedly flowed out of these craters and continued its destructive course a d.slance of sixty miles to the sea. When we think of all the mighty burning mountains, erup- tions and earthquakes of this world, we have before us not only mentally but in reality, all the scientific elements and possibilities necessary to bring about with a direct touch of God's hand, the end described by tjie apostle Peter when he says: "The day of the Lord will come as a thief in the night, in the which 1 •:-.; . FROM THE GOLDEN GATE TO HONOLULU 19 the heavens shall pass away with a great noise and the elements shall melt with fervent heat, the earth also and the works that are therein shall be burned up." The Sandwich Islands are intensely interesting in many respects. Honolulu, their capital, is a city of considerable commercial importance. The islandn are at the cross-roads of the commercial world. They are destined to become the great pleasure ground and health resort of the American people. Tlie mixed population, dominated by American in- telligence and thrift, will develop a future worthy of the important centre they occupy in the Northern Pacific. The Sandwich Islands by all means ought to be annexed to the United States But the Amer- ican government will probably realize this fact when It is too late. Our political leaders will continue to wrangle over partisan politics while neglecting the true honor and prosperity of our nation. And finally, here, in these islands, we have a strik- ing illustration of the gospel's power in civilization and salvation. Three-quarters of a century ago these natives were gross idolators whose hands were constantly dyed with the blood of human victims. But in 1819 Kamehameha II. succeeded his father a^ king. The leavening influences of civilization which for some time had been at work led this mild, well-diaposed prince as one of his first acts to abol' ish idolatry throughout the islands. Soon after, in 1820, the first missionaries, sent from the United States^arrived, and on landing, were made to greatly i>&„ 'f 20 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD destioyed. liie atory of the long strides of tl,Ps« natives :nto civilisation reads like a ro„ anee t1 r Chnstmn,.at,on «as a rapi.l proce«.. The goVpe of which they ,vere once ignorant, U now J Xt peraona rnnnstry, ™oney and influence .ent to mZ d. ant .lands of the sea and to the ends of t e earth. The missionaries have done their work well and again infidelity is confronted with the fact that Christianity and civilisation go hand in hand A lionor to the brave missionaries who have proved the harbingers of better days. \i'i' LETTER III. CROSSING THE PAOIFIC OCEAN. Our last letter left us at Honolulu. Our boat whistle souDds, and we nnist hasten on board our good ship. We purchase from the natives on the wharf a large bunch of ripe bananas, just off the trees, for twenty-five cents; and what delicious ba- nanas I We notice also that they have beautiful pieces of coral for sale cheap. Again the whistle sounds, the bridge is hauled in and we are off for New Zealand. The distance from Honolulu to Auckland, the first port of call in New Zealand, is about 3,950 miles, making the total distance from San Francisco to Auckland 6,050 miles. The distance from San Fran- cisco to Sydney, Australia, is 7,200 miles It is a long voyage. It is a voyage over the largest and deepest and most wonderful ocean in the world. The Pacific Ocean measures 9,000 miles from north to south, and more than 10,000 miles in breadth on the equator, its widest place. Its total area is nearly 68 millions of square miles. In some places it is more than five miles deep, with an average depth of about 2,500 fathoms. A voyage over this vast expanse of water may be thoroughly enjoyed by most travellers. We enjoyed it. We were a happy family; but like -•im 22 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD many other families, the fraternal relations were not perfect. There was one thing lacking Yet strange to say, it was this one thing that our friends attempted to set in order in the beginning. On the eve of our departure from San Francisco, a young lady, who gives considerable attention to the details of polite society, accompanied us to our ship and introduced us to the captain with a view of hav- ing us assigned seats at his table. On board ship the saloon passengers are assigned seats at the table which they retain to the end of the voyage. The captain's table ranks highest in honor, and the first seat on his right is the most honorable seat. But there were applicants for this honor before us. The captain's table was full. We got, however, what was considered the next best, seats near the head of the first mate's table. We were disappointed. Our good lady friend, in her honest desire to have us well entertained, had placed us in a position to be bored for twenty-one days. We soon wished we had been placed anywhere else, in the steerage, if need be, to avoid the point of the gimlet. But there was no es- cape. This first mate proved to be a born and bred Englishman whose second nature it was to sneer at everything American. I sneered back; while Mrs. Trotter laughed at the gimlet tJirusts and criticised all the ship's English dishes from the tough fowl down to the Bombay duck and curry and rice. (The English have no chickens; the chickens are all fowls. ) And so we passed the* time at the table. The mate said the Americans at the table all dip their knives 'I tm CROSSING THE PACIFIC OCEAN 28 [ into the same salt-cellar; and he thought it so much more in harmony with good taste, "you know," for all the company, ''you know," to use the same little spoon, "you know," to dip the salt out of the same bigsalt-cellar as we English do, "you know." But *'just fancy," it turned out that this mate had never seen an American salt-cellar. When asked by the steward how he liked his tea, he said it was "just beautiful " With him everything we had to eat and drink on the ship was "beautiful." When we left the ship at Auckland the British lion gave a loud roar. The American eagle shrieked; and thus we parted company. We had another Englishman on board of the same blue-blood (?) type. He took pride in saying he had travelled clean across the American continent with- out seeing a handsome woman. A Hottentot might have done the same. We pitied his standard ""of taste. When we changed boats at Auckland we took our first meal as we were leaving the port. The captain was on duty. Seeing the captain's chair at the head of the table empty, the Englishman took possession without ceremony. But the chief steward removed him. He became indignant. He said he would get permission from the captain to occupy tliu seat, and for this purpose he went on deck. Not- withstanding the sentence in large letters staring bini in the face, "Passengers Not Allowed on the Bridge, " he boldly ascended the steps. The captain, out of the goodness of his heart, told the intruder to occupy the chair till he came down. We all awaited with keen 2-1 OUR TOt!K AlJOtIM, TIIK WOULD interest the ™|,(ni„% ap|„.,,ran..n at the tal,l„. bnt tomi,mtelyl,is,|i,ii,..s,l,.t,.,l|„.,| hi,,, fin,,/, flui^i,,,,) In, , ''■'""""" 11" tho meal was imshe.i. Atthosdc,,,,,! ,„„,,| ,h, ,,a|,|,u„ „,„ in hi, . «ee at the hea.l .,f ,,i. ,.,,,,. ,) ,t „u, K, ! 1 tne.Kl «-a., oh.erve.1 to q„i.,,, ,ake the low,' a ..ttiu,lea.tho„o,.ahl,Mahle;aml then a .1^^ ex(re,„e .,a(,.factio„ ph.ycl over the faces ,,' .>a-e,,,.,.Mr.M,,,,,,,4,tort,,e,a,,,,.a«e:,nh C ! "■" " "">• -"Ivnl.o,, („ the Pl,arisees, ",vhe„ J o mt then, M'h,.„,h„„ art hidden of anv nan^oa -Hldn,g,s„ not.hnvni,, the Inghest roln,,, Lt a -.•ol><-.n,!den,an „„..,., ho„ he hidden of h.n .Khetha, had,.,hee,u,dhnnco,neand.aytothe' J n.sn,,.,„,,h,CH;a,,dthouhe,in„.ith hameto *■';" h'; l'»^-i ■ n,-' "Whosoever exalteth hin,! sel sail h,^aha.sed,a,„l he that humhleth , Jf sliiill lieexaivi.d," Wo were th.,„l-f„i. , """seit that nil Fn I,- I ^"'"^*'''"''^'"' "lien we learned m al I..,,.J,shn,,.,areno,alilce;b,,ttluuafowof o '.;;.";?■ '^'.'"^'■'-"!. --'"I'ly "..-.ice .l,e,„.elves s fi.l ; ;; "'"'=%'"« voyage ,vo are usually s.UiMi'.i o ,..ll„v. (he Master's adviee It, i« not so ;h;t';;;';:r''''''"""'^«"--*-'^'-'^°f^°^ !•>■-:- ■I.'.y („ day and week to week, after leaving ;';;'''"-.— led on toward our destination At :;•';;■•■''■■^^■^;;.lH^U^^.to,.ean swells. ,,,,rsl,i,^ """""■I"''v:!n.v, surrounded hy moving hill The -•-^1 ;"',nu.„. i, woul,i he lif,.., and perched on a "-.-. .:>.'n,unde.l hy valleys. But' fc )'.'it ^.u sailed over a smooth sea, sometimes so i CROSSING THE PACIFIC OCEAN 25 smooth that we seemed to be moving on a boundless plate of glass; and with the exception otadownpour of ram two or three times in the tropics, we had a clear sky. We crossed the equator and thus passed into the Soutliern Hemisphere. The North Star faded from our sight, and the Southern Cross came into view The Hun, which at the equator had been so directly over us that our bodies failed to casta shadow on deck, now begins to pass north of us, while our shadows lengthen toward the south. We whilcd away the time after the custom of the ship. The '' AastnUia''' ha hivge English vessel,steady going, beautifully furnished and affording every needed comfort. She carried a small complement of passengers. We promenaded the decks, and enjoyed the boautifursunsets, bright moonlight and the gen- tie tropical breeze. We played shuffle-board on deck, made swings for the children, read books and sung songs of praise. We had on board a Friend, speak- ing his sacred language, and a boastful atheist from San Francisco. Occasionally a heated argument Be- tween tJiese two on the relative merits of Christianity and atheism proved interesting. One evening we iiad a lecture in the saloon on Russia from the dis- tiiigui.sliod journalist and lecturer, the late Augustus 'Vihi. He said he hated Russia; and we quite be- I loved it before he had finished. Sala was anything hut handsome; and when his hatred of the Russians was depicted on his countenance we thought the Kus.sians in turn might be excused for not admiring the great journalist. Church of England service was 20 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD To'tZ^lh *''''"'•''"" ^^'--y Sunday mormng at 10 80 by he c«pta.n, assisted by the first mate The countless ..un.bers of living creatures i"the ocean remained beneath the surface. Only once did we note anything of interest among the mo^rs 'f thejeep. and ti.at was a whale spo'uting wate^he Uter on our boat stopped for half an hour off lu(u.la, a small island belonging to the Navigator or bamoan group, to exchange mails. Twelve »; fifteen of the brown natives, including a number of tii« passengers. The men were well formeH is pe::i,t"";: ""'^ ''"''■ ''''" ^*^'« ^^ -3 each siie of Th " ™"^''* themselves in a row on each side of the canoe, extendiz.g its full length. Kach one was provided with a short, broad pad- die, and the stroke was a quick downward movement The paddles all moved together, and kept time to a hvely song while the canoe bounded forward over the rolling sea with great rapidity. These Saraoans are closely ak.n to the Hawaiians, and Maoris of New Zealand. They are a splendid race of people bixty years ago they were gross heathens. To-dav they are all Christianized, and keep the Lord's dav almost as strictly as the ancient Israelites observed " their Sabbath. Had we stopped off a Samoan island on bunday the natives would have been in the mis- sion churches and Sunday Schools, and no canoe would have come out to welcome us. The mission- aries have done a noble work on these islands. We also sighted land on the Society Islands I > laaH CROSSING THE PACIFIC OCEAN S7 On March 5 we reached the ISO** meridian of lon- gitude, and as we had accumulated too much time on our hands we found it necessary to cut out a slice So we passed from Thursday right over to Saturday, dropping out Friday. It seemed a little strange to go to bed on Thursday and get up on Saturday with- out sleeping more than the usual eight hours. But we meet with many strange things when we get on the other side of the world from where we have been accustomed to live. On the twenty-first day out from San Francisco we sighted the rugged shores of New Zealand, and steered straight for the harbor at Auckland. LETTER IV. OCR riBST IMPRESSIONS OF NEW ZEALAND. Oro arrival at Auckland.our landiag port in New Zealand, was on Sunday at one o'clock The^W was warm and clear, and as we enteivd /he ^ dious harbor we noted its beruty « t isleT'",'""" and there giving diversity to it VVe Jooked ' ■■: the city.and saw it beginning at the v ry Va er' edl and rzs,ng, terrace-like, onto the hill's Xte tff ~r w""' '°''"""' '''""■'^^ '^ pleasing 'ba'": hl7h . ""'" "'* ''^ t*" *l"»rf by friends who had heard ot our cominir o,„i • ,• "^""* ^iio whirled awav i, ^ ^' ""mediately we were ^^ w. ^.,.i,ri ;: 1™.'';;.-''* mmmm ^^ I NANNIE FLOYU, •n k ♦.hjs'r !:VtPilEf3BrONH OF NEW //i-lALA.Nr) 29 vevy MD-^U^'y Airh bin church, arid «o be soon after- wards r^;v.u%. : L>5:j-i!i«T the reiiiaiiulor oi iiih sojourn ill Nv'W /m/n5-s',u I'l'ij wa^^ Miaiiily up lu tiie time o£ iii? ''iiti ;!^ ?h • ■ ,:,,iiM in) •Oiii.i.cicj ijiic w. rk jtuH.i.fey tbe Baptist ciJiu-ciie^ m tiu' C'doj) . \i. i''m' \:p,.: M,\ Spargeon was very !ii,li,> :,K .XM- i-r-:- n>.-ry..:: ■ ^^i.,^s1 ;;iv.u.jlM^r; and ev-j; 1m>>, i ;uu di^if->-a!'> . ^is'k"; . .;t-d hT jUh !< -t'iJAi'itv aiid 'ili. tbf Tc i>i-!st bn 85.;v..(;;i.-,- ,K ., .rja,i '•;i>ine iji'?\ itd,.-'s ?Hi 1 ^I'nf u-inei. vat- down t" a }i'.'u:i- ieo(!h-iiinkiiii^ \h-^. Tr-tt- ■^t'' -:.^. :M'^-Mbi-^ ordHiil. us l-ie 'uuv, ^vomuu'' hud ffot r/Hrh-'i AMckhiij.l fmi!t;!i- li'Mise he Ovvij.il iw; iju ud'^'iiiin!.^ \<>l ft ''>'a^ ,n?i'>:-- :p.'d, Soc?"i h! (t-r "!! •!•!•! fur Uw. n"n >, wL-di ( ■ '• : i /:.",,iiUJ •^ 'S-*U!.i-l !'»>•. i'.i 1 t;.; Kit- ' !*'^i »'.' -il M- 1 '"? >;■'!> !iM |-l;i*>» in t ilvi brick ^ ^ ■ ' --'i. .tJifi i.M X"d. Hii.I ilitMibad t'K'oij- *' • i'-' i-t!.'.. .'•.'. WV. (^xaiii.Mcii it and f.-und what \''' "ionuUH'-id a ;-vinail, "(jna)--, sjKt^tdron iH'>o foto the 'a'ejjJuce witl) intij^oni'y, with an "peji fi i ■>i.»/L:J..- NA^NU'; I'lovfj. OUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF NEW ZEALAND 29 I ■If ft*' Ok very smoothly with his church, and so he soon after- wards resigned. During the remainder of his sojourn in New Zealand, which was mainly up to the time of his call to the London Tabernacle, lie was engaged in evangelistic work among the Baptist churches in the Colony. At tliat time Mr. Spurgeon was very lictle above the average Baptist preacher; and even now I am agreeably surprised at his popularity and success among a large class of Londoners. After all, there must be something in a name. On Wednesday evening a complimentary tea meet- ing was tendered us at our temporary home, and some forty ladies and gentlemen sat down to a boun- teous spread. We enjoyed it very much— all of it— except my own effort at speech-making Mrs. Trot- ter escaped this ordeal, as the "new woman" had not reached Auckland One day we were invited by our host to examine a beautiful house he owned on an adjoining lot, It was unoccupied. Soon after entering the house, which contained several spacious rooms, Mrs. Trotter found her way, woman-like, to the kitchen. I lieard sharp exclamations, and then a call, "Come here, dear, quick. " Thinking sometliing serious might be wrong, I hastened to the spot. "What is that?" she ex- claimed, as she pointed to som^'thing in what ap- peared to be a sort of open lirephice in the brick chimney. I looked, and looked, and then had to con- fess my ignorance. We examined it and found what we pronounced a small, square, sheet-iron goods box set into the fireplace with masonry, with an open 80 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD space below it, the open chimney above it and a small front door to it. We ventured to quietly inform our hostess of our discovery, and asked its meaning. That," she said, "is a colonial oven, for cooking You see, we put a small fire under it and another small hre on top of it, and put the food to be baked mo the oven; and if you wish, hang a kettle over the top fire at the same time." It was then all plain to us. At one time these primitive ovens were in extensive use in the Colonies; but they have now mainly given place to the modern ranges and stoves. While ,n Auckland we visited the museum, the parks, the small bays about the harbor, and climbed to the op of Alt. Eden. From the top of this moun- tain, 644 feet high, we obtained a beautiful and ex- tensive vie«- of the city, the sea and the surrounding country The extinct crater, which is probably one- sixth of a mile in diameter, retains the perfect basin- like form it had assumed when its fires went out ages ago. There are evidences that Mt. Eden was not the only volcano in this region. Indeed, the whole country about the city isdotted with volcanic cones; and lava is found in abundance on the sides of these small mountains. We also made an excursion into the country, and paid a pleasant visit to the house of an intelligent gentleman from"home,"asthoEnB. hsh and Scotcl, in tliese Southern Colonies usually call their native land. Tliis gentleman took us into his garden and showed us a few stalks of maize wliich lie was growing as an experiment. Very little Indian corn is grown in New Zealand, and many OUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF NEW ZEALAND 31 people have a limited knowledge of its cultivation and use. In fact these were the only stalks we saw in the country. The gentleman said that he had heard that the maize was good to eat, but they had tried some of it, and none of the family seemed to like it. I asked him how they prepared it for the table. "Oh," said he, "we simply took off the outside and just ate the soft grains in their natural state." I said we usually cook our corn in America before we bring it to the table. He had not thought of that, but admitted that the cooking might improve it. We insisted on taking a few ears with us to the city, that we might give our friends a lesson in roasting-ear eating. My travelling companion, with considerable amusement, prepared it and brought it to the table. Then came the fun. The company took up the long ears in their fingers and nibbled and nibbled at them like mice listening for the appearance of the house cat. For the first time in life they had tasted cooked maize. I presume it was also the last time. But we did not have the pleasure of doing all the teaching. We had learned something from the New Zealanders. The first time we sat down to a meal with our host and hostess we noticed a large plate in the center of the table, and on it was a tall stack of thin slices of baker's bread, one side of each slice being coated with butter. We wondered what sc :?5 of a Colonial dish that was and how we were to eat it. But we soon learned that this plate contained all the bread we would get. We ate what was set before us, asking no questions for ooDscienoe' saka 82 OUB TOUR AROUND THE WORLD This way of preparing tlie bread for the table iscffiite common among the English and Sootcli New Zealand is called "The Wonderland, "and such t evidently .s in truth It is full of woLders, a. d the stranger is constantly wondering. He wonders at the natural beauty and grandeur he sees on every hand some of which can not be surpassed, if even equaled, in any other part of the world. He wonders 7hlN ?, ?", T''^'' "" *''^ J»"g'« like forests of the North Island and the extensive plains and fern ands of tJie South Island, not a snake has ever been found m t^e whole of New Zealand, except the dead ones which have been imported and placed in the museums He wonders what use the J.ord had for the wingless birds, called Moas, which once walked about m the marshes and mountain fastnesses of the country with legs as large as a horse's, and standing eight to eleven feet high from toe to beak.and whose skeletons m the museums may be examined at lei- sure. He wonders where the brown natives, called Maoris, came from, and how they managed to reach these islands of the Southern Pacific, probably cen- tunes before the white man discovered or occupied the country. He wonders why these Maoris, when they meet, ml, their noses together and wail as tokens of joy, instead of shaking hands with a smile or a hearty laugh as white people do. (How would it do tor the white ladies to rub noses instead of kis,.i„g?) He wonders how the large flocks of sheep which are spread over the grassy hills of the country manage to nibble the grass in places from between the rooks OUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF NEW ZEALAND m witlfout having their noses slmrpened. Ha wonders why the crater on Mount Tarawera, in the Hot Lake district of the Nortli Island, which had not shown the Jeast sign of activity within the memory of the native race, suddenly burst forth on the night tf June 1.0, 188G, shooting its flames hundreds of feet towards the heavens and literally raining its nnid on the surrounding country for mih^s away till large trees were stripped of their brandies, houses were covered up, and more than one hundred natives were buried from ten to twenty feet deep. When he looks on the boiling springs and pools, hot lakes, mud vol- canoes, sulphur fumaroles, huge volcanic eliimneys, and remembers that much of the ground on which he walks is a sort of pie crust, he wonders that the snow-capped mountains, with the gla(!iers streaming d nvn their sides, are not all blown to atoms by the pent-up forces beneath them. And so he may go on wondering to the end of the chapter, if, indeed, tliis chapter of wonders has an end. lieaven is as near to New Zealand as it is to any other country. The same is true of the fires of Gehenna. Such were our first impressions of New Zealand. ! LETTER V. : i GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP NEW ZEALAND. New Zealand was first sighted by Abel Jansen Tasmiin, the Dutch Davigator, in 1642; but on ac- count of the hostile attitude of the natives he sailed away without setting foot on the soil. But to Cap- taiji Cook belongs the real discovery and exploration of the country in 1769. He made five visits to the islands, taking his final departure in 1777. New Zealand is situated in the Southern Pacific Ocean, Wellington, its capital, being 6,625 miles in a southwestern direction from San Francisco. It is about the same distance south of the equator that San Francisco is north of it. New Zealand comprises three islands, namely, the North Island, the South Islatul and Stewart Island,and the small islands near their coasts; also the Chatham, the Auckland, the Campbell, the Antipodes, Bounty and Kermodoc Is- lands, lying farther off. New Zealand has an area of about 100,000 square miles, or 64,000,000 acres. Its extreme length from north to south is about 1,100 miles, with an average breadth of about 120 miles. The North Island has an area of about 44,000 square miles, the South Island has an area of about 55,000 square miles, and Stewart Island an area of a little 34 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW ZEALAND less than 1,000 square miles. The three principal islands, with their adjacent smaller islands, are about the size of the state of Colorado. Cook Strait divides the North and South Islands; and Foveaux Strait divides the South and Stewart Islands. B oth straits are easily navigable by the largest sea-going vessels; Cook Strait being thirteen and Foveaux Strait being fifteen miles wide in their narrowest parts. New Zealand is very hilly and mountainous; Mount Cook, in the South Island, the highest peak, being 12,849 feet high, snow-capped, and magnificent gla- ciers streaming down its sides to the level cf 700 feet above the sea. Mount Cook belongs to the chain of lofty mountain peaks running along the west coast throughout the entire length of the South Island, called the Southern Alps. The highest mountains in the North Island are the volcanic mountains, the two highest of which extend ''above the limit of perpetual snow." Tongariro is 6,500 feet high, and is at times an active volcano. Raupehn and Mount Egmont are 9,100 and 8,300 feet high respectively; and both are extinct volcanoes. The mountain ranges of the North Island are largely covered with thick forests. The South Island is more open, much of the land being covered with native grass which is used for pasturage. Stewart Island is also heavily wooded. The forests of New Zealand are mostly ever- green; and more than once we longed to see the gen- eral bursting of buds in spring and falling of leaves in the autumn. Ferns grow everywhere in great profusion and variety, from the smallest and most delicate kind up to the tall, graceful tree-fern. • 80 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD I New Zealand also has some extonsive and product- ive plains. In the North Island these plains lie on the western side of the mountain range; and in the South Island they are found mostly on tiie eastern side of the Southern Alps. There are also several excellent harbors on the eastern side of both islands. The southwestern part of the South Island is largely cut up with sounds, or fiords, which penetrate the country from the sea. They are long, narrow and deep, and wind about in serpentine fasiiion. Snow- capped mountains rise precipitously from the water's edge to the height of five and ten thousand feet. Everywhere there is a blending of the beautiful and the sublime. There are more than forty lakes in New Zealand, several of them large and very beautiful. Lake Taupo, in the North Island, is the largest one, being forty-four miles long and averaging fifteen miles wide. Te Anau, the largest lake in the Soutli Island, is forty miles long and covers an area of 182 square miles. Lake Wakatipu, also in the South Island, is fifty miles long and has an area of 112 square miles. Its greatest depth is 1,350 feet. But the most remarkable natural feature is the extensive district of hot springs, lakes, intermittent geysers^ natural tepid baths, steam-emitting earth holes, small mud volcanoes, etc., around lakes Rotorua and Rotomahana, in the North Island. It was here also that the beautiful white and pink Rotomahana Ter- races were formed by the deposit of siliceous rock from the water as it flowed from the boiling springs GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW ZEALAND 37 down tho slopes of the hills into the lake, and which were destroyed by tho sudden and terrible eruption of Mount Tarawera on the night of June 10, 1880. Tills distriet has a great attraction for tourists from all pares of the civilized world, and it is fast becom- ing the t;ana(oriuni of the Australasian Colonies. New Zealand abounds in rivers and small streams; some of the latter, clear and cold, leap down the sides of the mountains and hills and wind their way to the sea. The rivers are not large; the Clutha, in the South Island, the largest one, is only navigable by small steamers forty miles from the sea. Almost any kind of climate may be found in New Zealand; for, as someone has said, the climate is largely made up of "samples." The mean annual t("m])erature of the North Island is 57 degrees Fahr. ; and that of the South Island 52 degrees Fahr. Yet these figures are somewhat deceptive, for they do not account' for the fact that the climate differs greatly in localities only a few miles apart. The greatest objection to the New Zealand climate is the frequent and sudden changes experienced in many places. But taken as a whole the climate is a fairly good one. While in parts it is moist, in others bracing, it is genin-ally free from any great extremes, being mostly mild and lialmy. The snow-fall is mainly confined to the mountains and hills, and thunder is seldom heard. Cyclones are unknown in New Zealand. You can ])nrsue your daily vocation with little danger of being struck with lightning,and retire at night with- out fear of being blown away by a cyclone. 88 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD I'.' i ; New Zealand produces almost all the things that are to be found in the United States and Europe, and then it has some things peculiar to itself. The chief products of the colony are wool, meat, grain, gold, coal and dairy produce, in the order named. There is much fine pastoral land in the country, and every year large quantities of the finest wool in the world are shipped to England and America. Next in importance comes the meat trade. We never tasted better beef and mutton than we ate during our six years' residence in New Zealand. The frozen meat trade which has been built up during the last fourteen or fifteen years is most remarkable. There are now twenty-one freezing establishments in the Colony, scattered along in the cities of the east coast. The carcasses of the animals are frozen in these estab- lishments, then put onto the great steamships hav- ing refrigerating machinery, and carried to London. Some of these steamers are capable of carrying 70,000 carcasses at one time. At present nearly 2,000,000 frozen carcasses of sheep and lambs are shipped to England every year. Also about 56,000 hundred- weight of frozen beef. Wheat does well on the plains of New Zealand, and is extensively cultivated. The average yield is generally from 24 to nearly 27 bush- els per acre. There are several payable gold-fields in the two principal islands. Oats, barley, potatoes, flax, beans, peas, turnips, cabbages, apples, pears, peaches, plumbs, cherries, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, apricots, quinces, loquots, figs, grapes, melons, etc., flourish in New Zealand. t i. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW ZEALAND 89 There are two products peculiar to New Zealaiul of which I must now speak The New Zealind llax, or, more correctly speaking, the Phormimn tenax.in a perennial plant that grows in bunches or groups, with hard, sword-shaped leaves from tliree to four- teen feet in length. Each bunch also sends up a number of stalks several feet above the leaves which bear a profusion of yellow and sometimes red flow- ers followed by seed vessels containing l)hu.'k seed. I have seen thousands of acres of tlat, uncultivated land thickly set with the large, tall bunches ot this curious native flax. Before the country was settled by Europeans the Maoris made from the fibers ot the plant a coarse cloth with which they partially clothed themselves. They also used it for making baskets, mats, fishing nets and sails for their canoes. Iho name Phormiim temx comes from the Greek words phormos, meaning a basket, and te,w.,; stroii-. It is now mainly used by the Europeans, for niaKin^^ ropes and twine. I have brought some tine samples of the flax home with me. The other product peculiar to New Zealand is the kauri gum. It consists of the sap of the kauri tree which has become dry and solid. This tre^ is a species of pine called by botanists the Ihnn.nnm auMralis. It is found only in the northern part o New Zealand, and sometimes grows to the size ot twelve feet in diameter. If you make an incision m a kauri pine it only requires a few weeks in dry weather for a large mass of half dried gum t(. ooze from the tree. But the great kauri forests have ,* li 40 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD mainly the ex])ort of gum was S,7r)() tons, valued at about $i>,r)85,()00, The principal industries of rh,. clony arc located in the chief towns. Among th.'se we may further mention the foundri(>s. wl -'--'' their ^ueiM :•- '" ^V' :ir- Ati;!'. ? ; ^ v - > ft i,v,., V ^ 1' '?v' "• '■ ;i.«. linhlo at.v .ta;, •Olll SI .1 •■ •> ^'' ;'>';" rvi'v; ' '^' ■' i.ji 1 ' • i' ,),. Maoris (H.-^ -- 'M'' '-'*^'' '"'*>' ,,, :.n...vhi>. 1 !!;■ whju> ni:Ui ih'- (iii-'stion ngJil uain< .) (.[ N«j'»v Z'JiluM.i i--. !i « <• !i I I I l.i ill ^. ' ' ■Ft' 4l^f .. .»► "■■-*l- ':■ ■■ •. '^ 1 1' U- ..»•' ^'' ., •••*^f4^-- ^T^;v.> &*^^^■^••v^ i I tv%t < THE NATIVES OF NEW ZEALAND 49 looked somewhat fierce und l.iaeeus. They ivUo en- gaged in bloody tribal wars, and worHl.u..'(l u oU. An early missionary to the Maoris says: "I'erl.aim it is not too much to say that war was .■luelly carr.o.l on that they might io.lulj;e in their canoil.al least.s; 'and living in an island so destitute cf huid animals, we see, perhaps, the true origin of this horn.l prac- tice, althoui!h their traditions assfrt. the contrary, and athrm that it was first done to strike terror into their enemies." We are agah, told that -even when the lives of th,)se tak(U. in war were spared, still t le poor slave, though he might he kept for a tune to cultivate his master's land, was yet little more than store provision; and when tat and in good condition liable any day to be knocked faith. M'ellington proved too windy and rainy for us to make a longer stay in it. Here I experi- <'nced eartlirpiake shocks, saw the top of my chimney lilown over in my neigh))or's yard, wore glasses to keep the (lust out of my eyes, and chased my hat along the street. It is claimed that a Wellington man is always known in the other cities of the Colony l)y his putting up his hand to hold his hat '4 THE NATIVES OF NEW ZEALAND 55 when he turns a corner. Yet the city hao some re- deeming features, one of which is a commodious harbor which is usually occupied with large ships from various parts of the world. Having accepted a call from a church in Sydney, Australia, we made our arrangements to leave New Zealand, and after a pleasant voyage of five days, over more than twelve hundred miles of ocean, we came in sight of the Sydney Heads. •>r 7 / LETTER VIII. IN AUSTRALIA. The approach to Sydnuv is remarkably fine. It was (Jii a tltli^'litt'ul smuiner inoriiing, and the sun was just ijecpinj^ above the liurizon. We looked be- fore us,an(l the Sychiey Heads, rising perpendicularly roni th(' (!<'('[) water tliree hundred feet high, were in j)lain view. Tlie entrance between the Heads is a mile wide, with a mininunn depth of fifteen fathoms. On tlx' dill' of tlie South Head stands one of the most beautiful ii,ij;lilli<)us(»s in the world, with its power- ful, n^volviiii,' rl.u'tric light, which can be seen twenty- seven miles at sea. Powerful guns on the South, North and Middle Heads completely command the entrance. Inside the Heads there is disclosed, in my hum- I»le opinion, the most beautiful harbor in tlie world. I have not st^en all the beuutiful harbors in the world, but I have seen the principal ones and know some- thing of the others, and I do not hesitate to say that I hav(i seen none unci know of none, taken as a whole, which will e(|ii:il in be.-iiity the Sydh.?y harbor. Be- ginning at the Heads.extending on both sides the har- bor down to the city, you count no less than twenty- six principal bays, with probably a score of smaller 1 IN AUSTRALIA 57 ones connected with the harbor, with deep water everywhere, so that tlie numerous steam ferry boats can fiit about in all directions, and right up to the shore with perfect ease. All these promontories and coves give a length of water frontage which is esti- mated at one hundred and ten miles. What pleasing diversity! How lavish has been the hand of nature in distributing the objects of beauty about this spot I As your boat glides along you behold and admire with bated breath. You are charmed with vour sur- roundings. Well may the people of Sydney have reason to be proud of their harbor. The stranger will readily pardon them for making their first question after the introduction,"Whatdoyou think of our har- bor?" Pie can honestly respond/' Your harbor is very beautiful," and in doing so he will never fail to please his questioner. Expressed admiration for the harbor is the direct road to the Sydney people's heart, and woe be to the stranger who takes a dilferent nmte. The city also has an ocean frontage consisting alter- nately of bold cliffs and beautiful beaches and bavs. Indeed, Sydney with her wonderful harbor, exten- sive j)arks, beautiful gardens, and other objects of interest, in and around the city, all connected by tram and boat, can furnish the admiring traveler with a new place to visit every week in the year, and something new to see every day in the week. In some respects I know of no more desirable place in which to live than Sydney. It is warm and sun- ghiny, and its people are prosperous and hospitable. The city is a splendid one. Some of the build- I! 58 OUR TOUH AUor.ND THE WOULD int^s, iiotjil'ly the Town Hall and the G{ surpassed in souk.' rcspec'ts in any otlit'i* part of tin- aorld. .Miudi of lliu resident part of tlh' city i- i>iii!t on the hilLs; and the .stivetfl and lani's are .souk-u Imi narrow, hut well kept. The truui-cars are ratixr lonnidahle-lookint,' ol)fects,aii(l are all drawn hy steam motors They nil start from u central point in the husinciss i)art of the critv near the i)rincipal (piuy aloni,' tdie hay, and radiate to tlw distant suhurhs. XotwithstandinK tho main cross- ings are guarded hy jlaj^men, many fatal accidents result from the running (d' these great street-trains. Excellent lines of omnihuses aJso run to all parts of the city and siduirhs. The visitor to Australia from the Northern Hem- isphere will at first feel a little turned around and somewhat confused. Jle needs to feel his way slowly and cautiously. From th<' moment the American oi)ens his m uitli in Australia Iiis nationality is known; and sometimes helore he o[)ens it. While he and tin- .Vusiralians speak the .same language, he will soon learn that, so far as the placing of words is concerned, he needs a readjustment of his vocab- I'lj^i'.V. In oi f the far-oil suhurhs of Svdnev I asked an nitelligiMit h.dy the way to a certain house near l)y. She |)romptly told me, and then said: "I dis- cover you ar- from across the great ocean." I ad- mitted tl!<' fact, and then asked: ''How did you makethedisco\vry?-'''C)h," she said, "from the way you spoke;"' Mixl tiiiw after my two years' residence iu New Zealand. IN AUSTRALIA fiQ You no longer have smoke-stacks on the steam- sliips, hut "funnels." The railroads are all "rail- wivyH," the couches '^carriages," the depots "sta- tions," the engineers^engine-drivers, "the conductors "guards, "trunks "boxes," and valises "bags." You purchase your "return" ticket instead of a round- trip ticket, the guard says,"Take your seats, please," the station-master rings a large hand-bell, the guard sounds a sharp whistle, and you are off. The stores, though they may display many American articles for sale, are all "shops," and the ladies do not go storing, hut they go "shopping." The dry-goods store is a "draper's shop," the hardware merchant is an "ironmonger." The drug store is a "chemist's siiup." You do not call for a "wash-bowl and pitch- er," but a "wash-basin and jug." If you wish a spool of cotton thread, call for a "reel of cotton," and if you desire a tin bucket, ask for a "billy," and if you want a tin cup,ask the "salesman" or "sales- woman" to put in a "panikin." There are no fleshy people in Australia, but there are many "stout peo- ple," "strong people," "short people," and "tall people." I once lent a colonized Frenchman a book to read. He soon came to the words "fleshy wom- an," and he returnd the book in a fit of laughter. A "low" person is a person of bad character; and if you ask a lady who has been ill if she is getting "stout" again, you will probably make tracks fast with the heels toward the house. Many of the Syd- ney ladies are rather tall and slim. They are de- scribed as "corn-stalks." The gentlemen do not .L CO OUR TOUK AHOITND TJIE WORLD • walk with ('niit'S, luit with "sticks;" and instead of tall, silk liats, nr •'Ht()ve-|)ii).'s,'Mliey wtmr "bclltoi)- pers." TIh' ladies' iJarasdsaiv* sometimes called by the si^'iiitieaiil ii!iin<' of "hiisl.iiii(l-l„iaio|.,c,,»» ^n ladies are women, hut all women in Australia are not called "ladies." The ^'oneral forests arc called ''hush." A lar^'c land owner is called a "squatter," and ills holding a "station." Sometimes he estah- iish.'sa "s(iuatocraoy." The small farmer in Aus- tralian slaii«; is a "cocatoo." "Bail up," is the same as the American "hold up." The laborer who trav- els fra'r, said : -'Any of th"-^e whose privilege it was to regularly attend the lectures given in the TemixTance Hall. Pill Street, for two M'asons past, will bear us c^it when we say that the work done by the society has been a great, success. We have abundant evidence to prove tiuit the lectures 64 OUR TOrii AROUND THE WORLD were a])pivcia(<'(l, niid wcro instrumental in remov- ing' (lilliculti.'s from the tiiinds of hoili believers and unlnilievcrs.'' Aifivd All.-n, a niomhor of tlie New Houtli Wales I'arlianKiii. wIk. |)resi(le(l over a num- ber (jf tlx's.- Icctinvs^ ii, a lelt«n' of commendation, alsofiuys: " I n.vcr li^anl a umre able defense of Cliristian tiuili. I ('..nsidcr tlie cause of Christian trutli has a vorv able and |)ains-talvin^r advocate in J. F.FJoyd. 1 do not know Jiis ("(jual in calm and tbouphtfiil controvcrsv. " Kach summer we (ook a fortnight iioliday. While other |)eo))le wen. rushinnr oil' to otJier cities or to the niountain slopes, we preferred to spend our hol- iday in the woods among the iiowersand beside S(mie l)eautiliil bay. Tent-Jife amidst such surroundings, supi)lemented by the cdear sky of x\ew IS(»uth Wales,' is a real pleasure. One afternoon on a beautiful si)ringday,inyself and wib; decided to select our hol- iday camping ground. We took the tram running severe 1 miles toward the occmn ; and reaching the termnius, we walked some three miles to a secluded little bay. There was only ono small house in the "bush'^ near the bay. Here we found a hard-faced laborer, with a poor horse harnessed to a primitive looking Australian ^Mog-cart," who was in the act of starting to t he terminus of cmr tram-line. Having eat- isfb^d ourselves with the place and emptied Lur lunch basket, we asked the mrn if he would give usa ''lift" back to the tram. We wanteout the consist- •iicy of thick SOU]). Into tiiis the excited animal plunged, ramming his head against the wall of earth and sending us sprawling, head tlrsl, into the pud- dle. We got a ''lift" sure enough. The (irst thing I saw after scratching the thin mud from my mouth, ears and eyes, was my wif(> lying under tli<' horse's belly with his feet still Hying over her body. I dragged her out, and then we compjired notes. It was found that I had one rib broken, the wife had s iveral bruises and tlu; crown of her sailor h;it kicked out, and both of us wen? consichu-ably shaken u]). Ibit our black clothesl We retired to a fnrm In.use near by and scraiH'd and dried and brushed them, but the red clay defied all elVort to get rid of it. We discharged (uir driver and outfit, find as a matter of good policy on the part of a preacher and his wife, we went quietly into the city in the ni^ht time. I was thankful to reach home with all of my ril)s, if 1 m OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD (H.e of them wuh hrnkm. The wife was satisfied to lose the crown of her hat and bo saved further Joss from the niiarp iioof by her hair, whicli had been rolled on top of Jier head according to the prevailing fashion. It will be seen that "globe trotters*' have their iindignih'ed downs as well as iips. It will iiave been noticnd by the reader ere this that native names of things in Australia and New Zealand have boen very largely retained ; and with the pnmunciation of these names the stranger will mvesomo difliculty. They are applied to ships, houses, mountains, rivers, bays, etc. We thought those in New Zealand bad enough, some of which when properly pronounced, am i„„,iea] and full of meaning ]iut we have met a few in Australia that cap he climax Take as a sample this name of a fc>yduey bay and suburb-Woolloomooloo. 7* LETTER IX. A SHORT SKETCH OF AUSTKAMA. Australia ia too large and intore.stii)(r to ho dc- scribed in a brief letter: therefore,' I nuik( "no at (enipt, to adequately describe it. It is in many r.-s|),,ct.s a peculiar and wonderful country. It was tlie last continent discovered by the European. Historically it is, therefore, a new continent ; f,'eoh>t,Mcallv it is the oldest country in the world. Many animals and plants that nourished on other continents ji^es ago are still preserved in Australia. Some of these which long since have become .extinct in Europe and Anier- ica reach far back into geological time. Austnilia has been a sort of combined Zoological and IJotanical gardcMi in which has be.-n preserved the animals and i)lants of former ages as living ex- anii)les of what other i)arts of the world have pro- duced. Hence, Australia has many strange i)lants and curious aninuils. It nniy be called the land of the kangaroo and the emu. \\\\\ most of the native mammals of Australia are marsupials, and the kan- garoo is the largest and most remarkable of the marsupial class. Many species of kangarons an- rej)- resented in Australia. The largest size,which mainly iuhabits the interior, is reddish; and among the 07 68 OUH TOUR AKOr.vn TffE WORLD Hinnllor kinds ,nny l.o uumiunu.l tin- wallnLius and kungarocratH. TJ.oiv is also a p..,.,,!.:,,- kind that Jives n. (1)0 tn.os, r«.MMm,, whirl, l„.|,„„'s ,„ ,l„.os(nd, f,,,,,. Jly, issnl ,„„m.ro,H,„ll |>.'nou,M,(n-„rAuHtra- ;•■', " '';• 'l";>-"^""„., ,lv, ,|„,v ,^,,. r,.„„u-kaMv "'"■'• '■' •■"i.laiv s.MMMii s l,nnl,Ml hv tl,,. ,v|,i(',. """"■" li-r.-lNi.-l; will, ,,,„ ,,„,,, .|.|„:, „,.„ ,,|^,, V"0-^li-nu, „,„|, wl„.„l„.,„, ,.|..<,.|v |„„s„,.,| l,„vo .'■'"';"",""'"" '•■"'"=' '■""""•"'itvwitl,„„„vi. -•--l<-k_, ,,,i,,i,-, ,,,,.,. i, ,,,,,., ,,,,i,^. ,,,.,,, .•^'^'"•;- ■■' 'I- ''i'Ms i„ A„s,,„lia..„v l„.i,|i,„t,,, l'l""l«l. I'll- .•,,■..„.,( „„|,.,|,,, SW....1 s„„i.st,.,.„ l',.,.. '■;"■' '"■'■."'"'"■'■""■^■' «>!,..,.,. :,n.i„c.h„l,.,| ,1,0 "U-.u^,. An,-k ,„,.) wl,i„. c.,„.|•""■ "«li-' a |,„„si„«,, ''.;'''''.'';■ '.■'■""' 0-. It has a I.,,,,- sl,„v,.|-lik,. ,|c, ""'"'"'• ••'k-iNiv,.i,l„,-,l,..s„al<,.sa„.lli,: ""l^Hi „|,i,.|, i, ,„i,.|ly r Is T„ I,,.,,,., „,,,„.,!„■,.,. "t thysc l„,.,|s ,„.„,|„,, i,,,, I,, ., .^^ ji ^_ _ n^2:''«;vH>Ml,,.i,-,iu,.,.|,,,|,,,!|,,,M,a!l,all,nM"t ''''•"•l»''- <''■'"•■" i,,ll,H,,.i,l,,,,r „„.„llal,l,.|,i. lauty. I have .»«, a f.w la„.l,i„. jaei.'|.untnuio|- about ;]o.,,0(,(X Adelaide, Hrisbane Austmli,. |,a« nmcl, lin«;,a.st„r.,)an,l, an.l .nillions "fsh....|.Hn,leat,lefee,l,„Hl„.„ativ,.«r,.«s. 1.,.,.,,^ " N;.'w .S„utl, \Val,..s. .S,„a,-.ca,„, itna'nas a'.'l l'">"»l'l'l«s arc oultivate.1 in (Ju..,.,slan.l. Rid, .r„|.l .nm,.sar,.w„Hco,li„all,l,„.„l„„i..s. lulmJau,,^. Now ,lon-t all s,„,, to AmrnU. «t once, iiuo'ul guts are rather scarce uowadays. A SHORT SKETCH OF AUSTRALIA 71 The black native inhabitants of Australia, ^oner- ally called "blacks," belong to the lowest order of the human race, and yet even the most dc^graded cannibal tribes have some religious ideas. Tiiere is no doubt that leading scholars are correct in assert- ing the universality of religion, and that the Dar- winian school is wrong in claiming that the; human race in all its branches has luien developf^d from the lower animals. Their gnnius and skill in making and throwing the famous boomcnmg have gained for these "blacks" a world-wide notorifty. We brought home with us a fin*! specimen of the boomerang. The Australian natives arc fast disappearing before the advancing tide of civilization, or rather before the shot-guns and nivolvers of the "squatters." From probably 2W,()()() sixty years ago, they hav(» been gradually reduced to some ()(),(M)C). It will soon be a repetition of the old fable of the lamb inside the wolf. i m:tti;i; x. oru HKTUHN TO SKW ZK.U.ANIJ. T.v ls;«) „,. ,„,»n,..,l «„ x,.„. z„„|„,„i. •p,„.^ I ^"' "'-'■•","'• '■'"»'• "■"•"! ii,iiin,.„i,, ,„„„;,,, '■• '"''''-'■'■^" '"■'■""■ "II l-u-Ks of , I,., won. «, -"■••."ii.vn-..Mi:n.i,„„i. u-,.|,„,U| ,,„„„'•; """"'■'■;"'■- •- ■'!■ i..sin„.tiv,. i,„ok„ fro, ; ""•"""■r""''^- " •i-"l".in,.lil,ran-woi: ,. 4o'''I:;; .tl",';;'';, •''■•■■".•'• "I'-'-'i-i pi.. ti,ov ^vo^d. , ■V''T''''''''''':, '■'■ "'''''^ "'■■■''' i" 'tiii.r ii, ti,.,ir h , ' '' <''''"i"«l l)u))iic 81M. 72 OUR RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND 78 But what is a Colonial toa nieotin^'? This question may \m of interest to some of my AuKJiicaii reailers who have not had the privih^ge of visilin^r Kn^rijuKl and her Colonies, seeing that the Americans "jiave not had inueh experieneewith tea meetings. The first and only tea meeting in whieh the American i)eoi)le haviM'elt much interest was held in Jioston harhor in 1775i,when the Knglishtiui was thrown overhoard. But I can assure my readers that the Australian tea meetings dillcr somewhat from a gathering wo attended sevc-ral years ago in a leading Jiaptist church in the state of Knnsas, called a "J'ink Tea " Some of us who received complimentary tickets were full of wonder and anxiety as to the meaning of "Pink Tea/' But our curiosity was soon satisfied when we entered the larg.. church and found that the letter T,in various sizes and shapes, had been cut out of pink paper and stuck on almost every available object in the rooui, from the cup containing the tea (or colfee) up to the cc.-ntre of the pastor's back, while the rest of the proceedings consisted in an or- dinary church festival. We began to breathe more freely, and soon settled down to business. On attending a Colonial tea, you deposit your tick- et with the collector at the door. When you enter the hall the Tirst things that attract your attention an* the long tallies extending the entire length of the liJill, with broad pronu.'nade passages between them These tables are dressed in clean, white liiien,and or- namented with the flowers, ferns and various plants of the season. The chairs are all placed with their ■.%*^ o%i ^^% ^^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^ ,5^^ 1.0 1.1 ■2.8 Sf 144 ' us 140 I 2.5 22 2.0 1.8 L25 ||||_U 1.6 ^ 6" ► V] ^1 V /A Photographic Sciences Corporation \ S5 :\ \ [V ' <* «> ^ ^- "v ^--V^ V:^" 6^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716)872-4503 ■"^ 'i o^ 74 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD ) backs to the tables, and as the people enter the hall they are expected to select their own seats, except honored guests who are given seats at the head of the table or at a special table. This done, you can either be seated and spend the time in social conversation, or exercise yourself on the promenade, When tea is announced each arises, turns his chair, and takes a seat at the table in the proper attitude for eating. Some one from the platform repeats these words: "Bo present at our table, Lord, Be here and eviy where adored ; These mercies bless and ^rant that we May feast in Paradise with tliee." Then, as an expression of thanks, all stand and heartily sing them. Now begins the practical part. You begin with a cup of tlie best tea procuraljle, prepared to your taste, and a good healthy Colonial sandwich. The tables are also bounteously supplied with the princi- pal varieties that the confectioner's art can produce. There are no plates, except those containing the food, and fingers are the only forks. Gentlemen bring the tea-pots to the tables, and ladies pour the tea. You retire at your leisure. The Englishman takes his time for eating, and likes to linger long at the table after closing his meal. He puts much of the social feature into his meals. He does not be- lieve in imitating the pig that gulps down its food with a few grunts and retires at once from the trough to wallowing in the mire. The English custom is commendable. Of course these teas vary somewhat • r' OUR RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND 75 to suit the occasion, but the substance is usually the same. Tea being over, the tables removed and the large hall seated with chairs, a choice program, consisting of songs, recitations, readings, speeches, etc., is gone through with, the meeting being brought to a satisfactory close about ten o'clock. Such is a typical Colonial tea and public meeting, many of which we have greatly enjoyed. We left on the *S^. S. Jubilee on Thursday noon, March 13, 1890, friends waving us an affectionate good-bye from the wharf. We sailed right round the north end of New Zealand and down the eastern coast, calling at Auckland, Napier, Wellington and Christchurch. We were thirteen days in reaching Dunedin, and the voyage was uneventful. It was my privilege to preach to the passengers on the Lord's Day, and we had concerts on two evenings, which helped us to pass the time pleasantly. The weather was delightful and the sea comparatively smooth. Early on the first morning after leaving Auckland we looked toward the coast, on our right, and saw a conical island standing out in the Bay of Plenty, called White Island. The island is formed by a vol- canic mountain rising out of deep water to the height of several hundred feet. A heavy cloud of smoke was hanging above the top of the mountain. There are also on the island boiling springs and geysers of acid waters, the vapors of which form large deposits of pure sulphur. How wonderful are the works of God I ■^ n 76 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD Early on the morning of ]\rarch 26, we entered the Heads and slowly steamed up the harbor to our land- ing place at Dunedin. From Port Glial mors, the seaport of Dunedin, up to the city is a distance of seven miles, and the two places are connected by a railway extending along the edge of the harbor. A chain of hills on both sides of the harbor also extends almost the entire distance, the sides of which are covered with grass, small cultivated fields and scrub. Dunedin, as its name indicates, is a city built on the hills. Most of the business part of it is situated immediately around the head of the harbor, and then the resident part rises terrace above terrace till the top of the tall hills is reached, and even over into the valleys beyond. I have before me as I write a book of 800 pages entitled "Picturesque Dunedin," and I am sure this is an appropriate name for the cit3^ It contains some magnificent business houses, hotels and churches In one part of the cable-tram' line that mounts these hills there is, it is claimed, the steepest cable grade in the world. As the car starts down it you seem to be plunging over a high cliff, and timid ladies, unaccustomed to it, give a shriek and hold on for dear life. In this picturesque city we made our home for four years. Let the reader turn back to the beginning of this book and take a look at the writer's picture, and see how much it resembles a Roman Catholic priest Nevertheless, he was repeatedly mistaken in Dunedin for a priest. One day the supposed "father" was waiting for a tram near where the Bishop was lying ^ ' OUR RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND 77 ill in his home. A strange gentleman approached and said: "How is the Bishop to-day?" I replied, "I do not know; I have seen no notice of his condi- ti;)n in the papers," "Have you been up to see him?" "Ihavenot." "Are you a Catholic priest?" "I am not." "Oh, I thought you were, and of course would know all about the Bishop's health. " Before we separated another strange gentleman approached, and the same dialogue followed. The first gentle- man laughed and said, "I thought he was a priest." The gentlemen apologized, and we parted good friends. The Bishop has since died, but the "father" has survived the shock. ■*** l1 LETTER XL LEAVING NEW ZEALAND. Our departure from New Zealand in 1894 was mingled with feelings of sadness and joy. We were sorry to have to be called on to say good-bye to so many warm-hearted Christian workers and friends and we were glad, on the other hand, that the time had come to continue our journey and feast our eves on the interesting objects of the old world, which we had so long desired to see. But having made up our minds to go, a number of farewell meetings fol- lowed this decision ; and in describing these meetings I think I can not do better than give brief extracts from the lengthy reports of them that were printed in the daily papers. The Evening Star of May 3 FAKEWELL TO MR. J, p. TLOYD. I ^'"°"tf"'^/5«^^"PP''■•' to bid farewell to Mr 1 1 J ■ .7'' "'"^ *<* welcome Mr. R. C Gilmour vjL Sded "rnftlL?" '"*, "''"'■ Mr. RlXidZ ThT^h ■ ^ '^"' *"^ " '«"'S<* attendance. Ihe chairman opened the meeting with a few nnn, phmentary remarks, after which mT J McTnto?h Zn ttV- *;'' '"t^' °" "^^''^'f «' the congrega- t.on-the Disciples of (Jhrist-to say good-bfe to TO ^ 9 ^ -« 4 LEAVING NEW ZEALAND 79 their dear Brother Floyd, who was going to take his departure for Palestine, the Holy Land, and other interesting places. That the Lord might bless him and bring him, his wife and son to their destination in safety and in health, was the prayer of the congre- gation. The speaker then presented Mr. Floyd with a book entitled "Ferns of New Zealand," bearing the following inscription: "Presented to Mr. J. F. Floyd, on the eve of his departure from New Zealand, by the members of his Bible class in Dunedin, 2nd of May, 1894." (Applause.) The choir then sang "God be with you till we meet again." Mr. Flc d, who was received with loud cheering, stated that this was one of the occasions on which he found great difficulty in expressing his feelings and thanks. He asked those present to excuse him if they found that his address was hardly up to the mark. [The address is here omitted, and the report closes as follows:] He had been asked another question, and that was whether he intended to return to Dunedin. He did not know. He might return some day, but it de- pended very much upon circumstances. He some- times felt that his work was not quite finished in Dunedin, Under the circumstances it was utterly impossible for him to say all the good things he would have liked to say, but he hoped they would take the will for the deed, and continue to think of him as he would continue to think of them in the future. (Loud applause.) After the audience had been liberally supplied with refreshments, Mr. W. C. M'Nee extended a welcome to Mr. R. C. Gilmour, who afterwards briefly re- plied. OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD An address was also given dnrincr +r.^ solo; and the chJ.X'a'>!^..?K ^^fe^tr"" Later on another meeting was held and 1 ti, morning of May 1. the nJly rL^ Ide the fo,' Jowingreport of it: °^ PRESENTATION TO MR. J. F. flqYD ments w^re provided ''by'' rinl^^r'^fLf'''"^':,- advantage was falcon n/^i ^^^'"^'.^^i^ ot Jadies, and Floyd «lth7Lntoml IhSted *„d ?''''''" -^'- of sovereigns anrl «n 1,7 ^^^"^^^ated address, i^urse appreeiaUr'o^tr'Zra: ^^' xHf 1 of other gifts T he n?p3i ' '""'^^ ^ liumber nabie giftTpJe en d oZ' Vartn'er" ^ T.' ""' T'"" himself. Several snr.! Partner in life and to evening and a n eaS J"'' ""^^"^'"^ ^"^"^g ^^^ close by^ledoxo^grC^^^ ^"' brought to a the illuminated address wh?.h '"'''^ '' ^ ^«P3^ «f and Mrs. Floyd : ^ "^^^ presented to Mr. "/)mr Brother and Sister'— W9 a f«x,, ^f friends and avmnathi7Pra ^1 • 2 . ^^ y^^^ practical token ofthp I ?' •'''® *^ ^''^^ ^^^ ^^"'e by us. DutTZ fUfl ''*'"'" '" ^^^^«^^ yo" are held this city in the fnter^^^^^ ^""^ ^^^^^^^ i" J' tne interests of the gospel of Christ, I LEAVING NEW ZEALAND 81 your manner and conduct have beon such as to com- mend themselves to our syin])athies, and we regret that ycni have at Ja^^t seen fit to sever that j)ersonal intercourse and lellowship that have hound us to- gether in honds of Ciiristian love. We pray (tod that wheresoever you may I)e called upon in His prnvidencc! to labor you may be cheered in yoiii' work by the same counsel and inlluence uhieh we have been pleased to bestow upon you Kindly a('C('[)t the ac- companying gifts, which express inade(iuately the esteem and respect in which you arc h(ld by us. Signed— Jane Woollett, Margaret Suth(>rland, Rebecca Anderson, Alice lleid, Calln'rine Finhiyson (Ladies' Committee), on behnlf of a long list of donors, of members of the City Hal I Church, and friends, among whom are leading pul)ljc men. iJunedni, ^layii, 1894." One of the friends and liberal donors was the mayor of the city. The address, which was enclosed in a handsome frame, will always find a consi)icuous place on the wall of our parlor or study. We pur- chased our through tickets from Thomas Cook & Son, of whom we will have more to say from time to time during the course of our journey. Most of our heavy baggage, including my library, I found it less trouble and expense to send as freight direct to Lon- don. Finally, at 8 o'clock on the afternoon of Fri- day, May LS, a large number of meml)ers of the church and friends assembled en the wharf and on the deck and in the saloon of our ship, *S'. S. Tara- loera, to say good-})ye and to wish us a pleasant and safe voyage. Some tears were shed and many pleas- ant and helpful words were spoken, and as we quietly sailed down the harbor a whole forest of handkerchiefs M . H 82 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD were vigoroiisJy waving iiiiti] first the wharf and then the city itself gradually vanished from our sight. Thus we took our leave of New Zealand. .1 . -;: LETTER XII. FROM DUNEDIN TO MELBOURNE. That portion of the Southern Pacific Ocean sep- arating New Zealand from Australia, and over whicli it requires seven days for a first-class inter-oolonial steamship to sail, was known to the civilized world and navigated by Europeans a long time before it had any specific name. But a few years ago the Geographical Society of Australasia met in solemn conference and gave this large body of water the name of the Tasman Sea. It is well to distinguisli it by name from the rest of the world's largest ocean, for it is evident that this particular part is anything but pacific in reality. It believes in sacrifice rather than mercy; its peculiar cross-currents and head- winds giving to the ship almost every motion known to the old sea captain. We were aware of the bad behavior of this sea, and hence were prepared for any reception it might give us. Our entrance to the sea from the Dunedin harbor was blessed with beautiful sunshine and a gentle breeze, but the rolling of the good ship, S. S. Tarawera, soon sent us I)elow for the night. At 7:30 next morning we anchored in the Bluff Harbor at Cambelltown, which is situated at the southern end of the South Island, and is the first and last port of call for steamers running between 83 4 84 OUR TOUK AROUND TPIE WORLD 1 1 ,ii! Melbourne tincl New Zeuliuul. It in a bleak [)lace of little importance, except as a shipping point for the southern part of th(! LsJand. Here our best deck chair decided to discontinue its tour around the world. It took legs and walked ashore without our knowledge or consent. It did not return. We sailed from the lUulf on Satunhiy evening, the same day of our arrival, and Sunday, Monday and Tuesday our ship was rolling, plunging and ca- pering like a playful animal. Now we were lifted to the top of a mountain wave, and then we sank down into the valley below; one minute the prow of the boat was pointing heavenward, and the next the stern was lifted out of the water, while the quick revolu- tions of the screw startled the timid passengers and set the ship to quivering in every part. Sunday passed without any religious service. We had taken on board at the Bluff a company of fine singers who had been touring New Zealand, but we had no song. The berths were well patronized; the stewards and stewardess Avere kept unusually busy, and sighs, moans and complaints constituted the order of the day. The liveliest passenger we had on board was a man who had become delirious through strong drink, and required two stewards to hold him in his bed most of the time. He was a sad wreck in Colo- nial high life. The announcement early on Wednesday morning that we had entered the Heads and were approach- ing the city of Hobart was a welcome one. We went on deck, and as we steamed slowly towards the wharf f FROM DUNEDIN TO MELBOURNE 85 we had a fine view of the city, built on the banks of the river Derwont, and extending in horse-shoe shape around the head of the counnodious liarbor, and snow-ca])i)ed Mount Wellington, lifting his head up 4,11(5 feet toward the zenith, forming the pictur- esque background. Hobart is the capital of Tas- mania, and is built on uneven ground, some of which is considerably elevated. It has some magnificent public buildings and an excellent system of electric street cars. The Government House, built of whito freestone, the House of Parliament, witli 9,()U0 vol- umes of Itooks, the Town Hall and the Museum are tlie principal ones. It is connected with some of the smaller cities of the Colony by rail, and is regu- larly reached })y splendid steamers from New Zealand, Sydney and Melbourne. Some of the large steam- ships from England also touch at this port. In con- sequence of its bracing climate, and being easy of ac- cess, Hobart is becoming quite a summ(n' resort. It has a population of al)out 29,000. Mount Wellin!,^'ton is not a cone-shaped mountain as I had thcjught, but is a long ridge-like mountain with one end higher than the other, and forming a tableland on top. It is so near the bay that its base extends right down to the city limits. Heavy clouds were hanging about the mountain, and now and then one of these water-carriers would float over the city and drop a shower of rain. This mountain is almost exactly the antipodes of Mount Ben Nevis, in Scot- land, 4,400 feet higli. A Meteorological Observatory has been established on the top of each of these 86 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD It! mountains under the superintendence of the same scientific gentleman. Simultaneous observations are to be taken from both mountains, and it is be- lieved that the facts thus obtained from both sides of the world will furnish more accurate forecasts of the state of the weather than have been hitherto at- tained. Tasmania is an island lying between the southern end of New Zealand and Australia, and is separated from the hitter by Bass Strait It comprises a little over 26,000 square miles, and it is, therefore, about half the size of the state of Alabama. Its total pop- ulation is about 128,000, and it is a British Colony. By Australians and New Zealanders it is vulgarly called the "tight little island." The black native population has entirely disappeared, the last one dy- ing in 1872. It is said to be a fine fruit country, and we can testify to the good quality of the beau- tiful apples we saw in the markets. While walking on tlie streets we met friends from Sydney, in whose company we spent a few pleasant hours. Our stay in Hobart was limited to eight hours, i^efore h^nving the wharf, a man came on board with wild-cat, oi)()ssuni and other Tasmanian skins for sale. At one time these animals were very numerous in the mountains of the Colony, and beautiful rugs are mnnufactur^^d out of skins and sold at high prices. We purchased a sample. The remainder of the voyage between Hobart and Melbourne was devoid of special interest. We reached the latter city on Friday, May 25, at 2:30 p. m., and •> 'nj7'My""-T7'"'r^!''' FROM DUNEDIN TO MELBOURNE 87 were met at the wharf by friends who were awaiting our arrival, and who took us in charge during our short visit to the city. ihii LETTER XIII. FROxAI MELBOURNE TO ADELAIDE. "Marvelous Melbourno" is lUKloiibtedly a won- derful city. When the traveller remembers that a little more than fifty years ago there was no Mel- bourne, and then looks on the present city, he has good reason to be surprised at its rapid and solid growth. As our steamer slowly nu'ved up the mouth of the muddy Yarra Yarra River, on the north bank of wliicli the city is situated, we were not very favor- ably impressed vvith what we could see of Melbourne. It looked too flat and gloomy. But when we en- tered the fine business part of the city, our unfavora- ble impression gave place to one of admiration. Its parks and o-ard^ns are beautifully laid out, and its public buildings are uiagnificently executed. The ppncipal streets run at riglit angles to one another, and they are long, broad, smooth and clean. Melbourne has one of the most perfect cable-tram systems we have ev(^r seen. Indeed, I could write a book on this one city, Imt I must hasten on to other places, many of vJiich will, no doubt, prove of more interest to my readers. We took our departure from ^Melbourne on Satur- day, May 2(3, at noon^ taking passage on the magnif- 88 FROM MELBOURNE TO ADELAIDE 89 ,i: icent steamer, Orotava, which was to be our home till we reached Egypt. Our passage to Adelaide proved a very pleasant one. Our ship dropped anchor on the following Monday at daylight, in Larger Bay, and a steam tender came out from the wharf bring- ing, among others, friends to meet us. We were taken ashore and driven to a hospitable home, where we stopped daring the two days we were in the city. On the next day we were taken to the top of Mount Lofty, 2,400 feet high, and ten or twelve miles from the city, where we had a nice family picnic and ob- tained a fir.e view of the surrounding country. The drive was a delightful one, the road being smooth, and winding its way gracefully up the mountain side, and near the city taking us between vineyards, orange, fig, olive and almond trees. We saw the Devil's Elbow, a bend in the steep part of the moun- tain road, which has been the scene of a number of serious accidents. Our host, who is a preacher and ought to know, said the devil was not satisfied by showing his elbow, for he sometimes also showed his hand in this country. If Adelaide has only seen his elbow and hand it has reason to be thankful. Thel;^ are places where he seems to walk about exposing bis whole person without the least fear. Adelaide is a pretty city, built of stone and brick in accordance with a municipal regulation, as a proof against fire, such houses also being cooler in this hot, sunshiny summer weather. Its suburbs are separated from the city proper by park-like reserves, which give a pleasing appearance to the surroundings. We n i ■1 :£ 90 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD I much enjoyed a walk through the beautiful Botan- ical Gardens. In the evening I spoke in one of the principal churches to the Young People's Endeavor Society, a large audience being present. Altogether, we were highly pleased with our visit • to Adelaide. We would like to linger here longer; but our faces are set towards Jerusalem, and the time of our departure is at hand. Friends accompany us I to our boat, the whistle sounds, we wave our hand- kerchiefs and again we are oif. LETTER XIV. ON THE INDIAN OCEAN. On leaving Adelaide the line, "We are out on the ocean sailing," was literally true. But the next verse, which says, "Homeward bound we sweetly glide," needed to be considerably modified till our head-wind ceased and the sea became smoother. From Port Adelaide we sailed right out into the great Australian Bight, and for three days and four nights our boat was see-sawing and rolling on these turbulent waters. On the second day out the tables were cleared three times of much of their contents while the stewards were preparing our dinner, and many of the passengers kept their beds. We saw no land till we reached Albany, in Western Australia, the first and last port of call on the Australian continent for the boats on this line. Be- fore our arrival, I asked an officer what theie was to see in Albany. His reply was: "Sand and rocks." This I found to be about correct. The town has a population of about twelve hundred, and is of little importance, except to the shipping interests. It is connected by rail with Perth, the capital of Western Australia, two hundred and sixteen miles away. It 91 92 OUR TOUR AROUA'D THE WORLD has li good liarbor, and tlie water approaching the city is calJed King George Sound. There are no beaches around Jiere worth the name, the rocks for the most part, sloping abruptly into the deep water On roundnig the Cape from Albany we entered the Indian Ocean and pointed the bow of our ship to- wards Colombo, the capital of Ceylon, distant about 8.300 miles We now settled down properly f.o life on Ijoard ship, aiid we were rather pleaded with our new surroundings. Our sliip was one of the Jargest running on the Oriental and Peninsular lines and so exceedingly clean that there was a complete ab- sence of all offensive smell such as is too often experi- enced on boats. We had spacious promenade decks large, well-ventilated ajul l)eautifully upholstered dinmg saloons, hot and cold salt and fresh water baths, and electric light in every part of the ship which, m the state-rooms, can be turned on and olf by the passengers at will. Our bill of fare was all that could be desired, comprising the good and sub- stantial things usually found in first-class hotels from the soups right down to ice-cream, fruits and nuts. We sailed on and on, under a clear sky and over a smooth sea-sometimes as smooth as a lake and glossy m appearance-for ten days, with little to break the monotony, except what the passengers and crew devised. Every dav if 1 1 a ht ,,.^ i j '^^^ "'^.y ^^ -li A. M. we had music on deck lor an hour by a band of string and wind instruments belonging to the ship. Four evenings we had creditable concerts. Two nights there was ON THE INDIAN OCEAN 98 dancing by those who cared to indulge in that sort of amusement A number of days the gentlemen played cricket on deck. Several times there wei-^ sports,including re.ces, jumping, tug of war, and such like Almost daily we watched the fire drill, by the ship's crew. When the bell sounded the alarm the men came swarming out of all parts of the ship, bringing blankets, etc., with them, some taking up their positions at the boats on deck and others set- ting the pumps in motion, which sent the water through the hose high in the air, while the steward- esses took up their positions about the passages and doors of the saloon to quiet the nervous women anc children. The rest of the time was mainly consumed in reading, writing, conversation and promenading. We saw no sea monsters, but several times we saw schools of flying fish,and watched with interest some of them shoot out of the water to clear the track ot our vessel, fly a couple of hundred yards with great rapiditv, and suddenly drop out of sight. One ot these fish managed to get on our deck, and I secured one of its wings, pressed it and have brought li homo for exhibition. It is simply a big fin of a small fi.h used as a wing. On Sundays the captain conducted Church of England service in the saloon at H a. M- (after dancing most of Saturday night), and it tdl to my lot to conduct evangelistic services on Sunday evenings at half-past seven. There wa. a Church of England clergyman from Ceylon on board; but he declined to join me in any sort of service, and the captain did not ask him to assist in the morning 94 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD service. But when he saw that the evening meetings proved a great success, even while he was walking the deck, he proposed to "take charge" of them. But the Church of England people, several of whom were on board, joined the other passengers in declin- ing to have the services interfered with. In fact, a High Churchman played the piano while the congre- gation joined in singing Sankey's songs. We also had on board another very religious gentleman from Australia. He refused to join in any of the innocent sports, and he thought all the passengers who en- gaged in jumping were jumping straight to hell. With him the tug of war was a contest between de- mons over which the angels were weeping. He usu- ally sat by himself on some secluded part of the deck with his Bible in his hand. He was never seen to smile during the whole voyage, and he wore a face as long as the face of a Kentucky mule in the civil war. Seriously, I believe there is a difference be- tween piety and longfacedness. I am satisfied with the former without the latter. On board ship the limits of true refinement and iDure religion should never be transcended, but all long faces should be charged for the extra amount of space they occupy. As we entered the tropics we felt the heat consid- erably, and the crew and passengers donned their white costumes. The large fans in the dining saloons, moved by steam power, were also set in^ motion. At 10 p. M., on June 11, we crossed the equator, thus passing into the Northern Hemisphere. We could not see the line, not even with our glasses (this ON THE INDIAN OCEAN 95 is a joke). But I dipped up here a small bottle of water, and have brought it home with me as a re- minder of having crossed the line. At this point the moon was directly over our heads, and we had some very beautiful sunsets, the clouds streaked with scar- let taking the forms of trees, animals, etc., as the sun sank below the horizon. We were looking for- ward to a delightful break in our long voyage, and were all making oar arrangements to spend a day ashore. Finally, Colombo came in sight. LETTER XV. IN COLOMBO, CEYLON. After a ten clays' sea voyage under a tropical sun, the sight of land is very welcome, and the prospect of a day ashore "lends enchantment to the view." The approach to Colombo is fine. First the low coast, fringed with the graceful cocoanut palms, is visible; and then tlie Ihig-staff, the forts, the spires of some of the principal churches, and finally the city itself come into view. It was on Wednesday, June 18, at 9:80 a. m., we rounded the magnificent breakwater, which cost more than $8,500,000, and dropped anchor in the harbor, comprising some 500 acres of water, sheltered from the southwest monsoon. What a scene 1 The whole harbor seemed alive with floating humanity. In- stantly hundreds of boats of various sizes and euri- ous patterns, from three straight logs tied together up to the coal hulks, approached us from all direc- tions, pushing and colliding as they came; while their occupants were pulling, singing and shouting as though each one's life depended on his reaching us first. A few minutes later the sides and decks of our ship were literally swarming with the almost 96 IN COLOMIiO, OKYLON 97 nude natives, bringiu.^ twincid iruiiH, hIioHh, and various otheu articl(3H I'or salo to tho pusriongors It was an auimatud and inlurosling ncenu, nuvur to be forgotten. ICveryLliuig wa^ so strangu— ^o dUlorent .rom what we had b.un ucuiistomed to see. We Haemed to be approaching a now world. lUit the next t hing was to get a.horo. Wo couUl take our clioice botween a native outrigger canoo, a jolly boat, pro- tected with beautiful awnings, or one ol the steam launches. We chose the last-named, and amidst the din of the natives, literally scrambled over a num- ber of smaller boats into our launch. It was every man for himself here; and it also came very near bmng every lady for herself. It was almost as bad as a game of football played by students of rival col- leges. We took a long breath, our little steamer gave ti sharp whistle, and we were olf for the shore. We engaged an Indian guide who could speak Eng- lish fairly well, and a couple of two-horse carriages for our little party of six, and we started out to see t,he sights. The day was clear, and the sun, which was afmost directly over us at noon, was hot. In sDme of the large European shops, and some ot the native ones, great fans, in long rows, swmguig from the ceiling, were kept constantly in motion by natives (Muployed for that purposi^. Yet toward evening it was pleasant driving in the shade of the trees. The city of Colombo covers an area— excluding the large lake around which much of the city is built— about ten miles square, and has a population of some 128,000, including a good sprinkling of Europeans. 98 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD The siruots are broad and well luade, but in many places have no sidewalks, the pe(jple as well as the conveyances occuj)ying the full w idth of the street. The streets were lined with wonderful trees of great variety, clothed in all the richness peculiar to the tropics; and the cocoanut palms, banana trees, ever- green shrubs and fragrant flowers, which abound everywhere, looked very beautiful and refreshing. We drove through the principal streets, on either side of which were native huts and bazaars initrspersed with European bungalows and business houses. Jinrickshas and hackeries were running in every direction, either carrying some one or soliciting patronage. A jinricksha is a very light two-wheeled conveyance, with a movable top, drawn by a cooly between the shafts. We saw many of these poor coolies running with all their might through the streets with the perspiration streamingoff their nude bodies, while behind them, in flowing Oriental robes, sat a great chunk of heathen flesh, urging on what he evidently considered his beast of burden. It seems to me that no person with a conscience can ride behind his fellow'-creature in the shafts; and ns we had a little conscience left, we declined to get into a jin- ricksha. We left these conveyances to our long- faced passengers, some of whom we saw riding about in them with much satisfaction. A hackery is a two-wheeled, springless cart, drawn by a little brown buffalo about three feet high, w^ithout horns, and having a large hump. When we stopped a moment the nude natives ^ .It t''^-\^ T ^.:.: v.ji^jf : ,^., "if ■.ff'ir.-i: •■'■>, • 'f" ,*•*' " I - << ■IPs'. '^: O,'-. *- lan™.- , »• '^ -Si. (T >fe i^v^7 ;^/ ¥, •:,:j,,:v*1«?* ^« iS4 #!#'^ik*>w:aiy!;i;fe^ ^#<«^^«J«ym'•■ m 'iM^'iJ':- ■^^•' '-'-M' vl -• V-.. ^- li-ljjVH f, i.i . £/ ::■ '■^ 'inn;*;;! ^^n-.; r. t ■. , 1- ! ■''■'• IH-un .:;,t;>:j;-i ;■ ;;-.i<: 1 ■ ■ ■. .■ '.* Mv^JU'7 '.! |i : ' 'V. --vhin/].'.^ ;.;..! H I I irV. r\iir.v I .y Hat *i, gj-c-i'- chunk '/I h , ; ^''.i '-n\i.u]ihir oliin i:- ,,;,ili-. ! . I ; ; I 1 ' '■ i' ■ '' liinic'n. '-'' '^' ' ■^'' ['• v^.,;, -,al' ?! C.'i; ■■jea.-.' ;•:;'! n,! ] 1 i"^v:: 'i^vi (V ■* 1 :■'.<■ i ' ■: t. WO (! .'] ic,-.,-] t. ■ !, • ' 1 J ^''. \w !.T, 'ih'-f 0<':i\-.-VUi}CU^ '^i VI, '^'■-.l nr S'Uv '-id::-,- alHUii •A ;.,'-.,:-N is;. t o > u d a o hJ o u H Cd » OS H ' ,i :<■■■ ^■tf IN COLOMBO, CEYLON 99 crowded around us to beg, and to steal if they had a chance. I call them nude, for some of these people wear nothing at all, except the hair on their heads, and that uncombed; while a fig leaf each would suffice to clothe many of the rest of them After a couple of hours of this experience blaster Trotter said, "Papi, let us go back to the boat I am tired looking at these naked people." We visited the cinnamon gardens, which have been imujortulized by Bishop Heber's well-known stanza: "What tln)' the spicy breezes blow soft o'er Ceyhni's isle," and we brought away sample branches of the ciiniamon trees with us. When you break a branch from a cinnamon tree or crush the leaves you may smell the spice. But in some parts of Colombo you will meet with anything but "spicy breezes." Indeed, we met with some breezes which we thought might have been improved by being spiced. But in traveling around the world one's nose must learn not to be verv critical. We spent some time in the principal Buddhist temple, where we saw a reclining image of Buddha in beautiful white stone, twenty-seven feet long The walls of the temple are very tastefully orna- mented with frescoes, depicting scenes in the history of Buddha; one of the most interesting representa- tions being the great victory of Buddha over the devils. We saw now and tlien the curious and beau- tiful banyan tree, which is sacred to these people. We saw women by the lake washing clothes by dip- ping them in the cold water and beating them over il 100 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD a large stone. We also visited the wonderful fruit markets, the iiuiseum and otlier objects of special interest about the strange city. WJiile in the fruit markets wb bouglit n Jarge basket and Kiled it with choice tropical traits. Our guide called a native policeman to protect us aganist thieves while we made our purchases. While in the museum we left our driver with the carriage at the door to guard our basket. When we returned a quantity of the. fruit was missing. The driver said he knew nothing about the missing fruit, and the guide said the driver was perfectly honest! When our carriage would stop a moment, the brown urchins, who had picked up a iow words of English, would lay their hai.ds on their stomachs and say, ":Me hungry, no njamma, no papa." We referred them to our driver for fruit. We took dinner at a native hotel, Avhere not a word of English Mas spokei]. They brought us three kinds of meat, and we set to eating and discussing it, but as much doubt was raised as to what we were really eating, the whole company pushed their plates aside, and we finislied the meal on fruits and iced lemonade. Besides some good native hotels, there are some mag- nificent European hotels and business houses in the city. The native barber shops are a curiosity. Two men sit on the naked ground facing each other, with their feet and legs doubled uj) under them. On^ of these is the barber, the other is the barbarized, and the process is barbarous The barber looks his customer straight in the face, holds him by the chin and de- ' 4> IN COLOMBO, CEYLON 101 liberately proceeds to chop off his beard with a dull substitute for a razor. The shop Iooks mere like a chicken house with one side knocked out of it. I would rather take a Nazarite vow than be shaved in these shops. Ceylon lies in the Indian Ocean a little north of the equator, and is under British rule. The island is 2G7 miles long and 140 miles wide, and contains an area of about 24,700 square miles. Its highest mountain is 8,2()9 feet above the level of the sea, and its longest river is 150 miles in length. The island is very beautiful and interesting, . The national religion of the Singhalese is Bud- dhism, which claims ninety-one per centof the popu- lation, Hinduism and INIohammedanism also claim large numbers of the people. The Roman Catholic, Church of England, Presby- terian, Methodist and Baptist churches and the Sal- vation Army are all represented in Colombo, some of them having a strong footing. The missionaries have done and are doing good work in Colombo, and in other parts of the island But our time is up, and we must return to our boat. We paid our guide and released him. The total cost of his services and the two carriages with their drivers for the greater ])art of the day, was $2.50. We were thoroughly satisfied. We took our leave of the shores of Ceylon a happy company. , ' i: t LETTER XVI. ON THE RED SEA. On leaving Colombo we headed toward the Red Sea, and onr good ship was eight days steaming the distance betweeu the two places. The monsoon swept down unmercifully on us much of the way; but our ship held steadily on her course, plowing through the troubled waters, while the mountain waves broke over her upper decks, and tossed the ' spray clear over her great funnels Wonderful is ' man's power over the angry seal \ Sometimes the strong wind would lift the spray i high from tlie crest of the huge waves, and the sun, \ sliiniiig through it, would form a small momentary ! rainbow. When wo could find a safe standing-place I on dock, we watched with much interest tliese beau- tiful rainbows. How wonderful are God's works 1 i To lis the ocean in its ever-changing phases, whether | wihl or calm, is a source of perpetual fascination. On the sixtli day we were running close beside the island of Socotra, eighty-tv/o miles long and twenty j wide, with bold and rugged coasts, mostly barren interior, and inhabited by a few Arab and English families, which sheltered us much from the wind. i Two days later we sailed very smoothly over the Gulf of Aden, with a gentle breeze from the shores of 102 i ( ON THE RED SEA 108 ■I ;l Africa to temper the heat sufficiently to make it bearable. In the evening, after the sun had ceased to shine, and the moon and stars were illuminating the heavens, we stepped to the port side of our ship and took our last look at the Southern Cross; and then passed to the starboard side and gazed al the North Star for the first time in nine years. It seemed |fi like an old friend whom we desired to greet pleas- | J antly and accept as our polar guide in the Northern \ Hemisphere. Though we had not seen it for so long :^ k a time, we knew just whereto find it. All Christians U] should be as true to their places in the spiritual firma- 1 1 ment, as steady lights and as faithful guides, as |r this little star is in filling its place in the material heavens. We passed out of the Indian Ocean into the Red Sea through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, which is fourteen miles wide, and divided by Perim Island, I with high, steep peaks, making the southwestern I channel, through which we passed, only ten miles across. To our left, on a gravelly hill near the shore, f- stood the lighthouse and the British fort. On the | j right were to be seen the rugged shores and sandy plains of Arabia. We expected to be very nearly roasted on the Red Sea. We were aware that passen- i gers over it have died from the eflfocts of the terrible , heat experienced, and we were preparing for the or- ! deal days beforehand. We were agreeably disap- pointed. Nature seemed to specially favor us, for we had a nice refreshing head-wind, and the highest register of the thermometer in the cabin after sunset •.i ' Sea throueh the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeh. whinh is ,, I!. ■j{ si r- ,:\ i- 104 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD was 92 degree.^. In the absence of this wind, which is only Dccasionaljy experienned, tliere are few hotter places on this earth during the puninier months. If there is one place on earth more than another whereai)':'rson enjoys eating ice-creani it is probably on the lied Sea on a summer's day. Our chief stew- ard seemed to understand this fact, and hence his supjily of the cooling cream greatly ploased us. We also Hp(>nt a Lord's Day on the Red Sea; and as I spoke to the people in our religious service of the miraculous passage of Israel through the waters near the head of this sea, we seemed to enter into a reaJi- zalion of the fact as never before. The Red Sea is 1,200 miles long, and 180 miles wide at the widest point; and we were nearly four days in sailing through it from end to end. 'it has numerous small islands. Soon^after our entrance into it, we passed on our starljoard side twelve of these islands, called The Twelve Apostles, standing like soldiers in line of battle, facing the African coast, separated from one another by about a mile of sea. ^'Enormous coral reefs run along the Arabian coast in broken lines, parallel to the shore, but not con- nected with it. They usually rise out of deep water to within a few feet of the surface; and a navigable channel of from two to three miles in width, in which the water is always calm, extends between them and the land." There are also extensive coral reefs in other parts of the sea, and beautiful shells from it are exposed for sale in Cairo and other like places. The northern part of the sea divides into i r ON THE RED SEA 105 two gulfs, those of Suez and Akaba; and the former, over which we sailed, is 170 miles long, with an av- erage width of thirty miles. The name lied Hea is of doubtful origin. Some scholars think it took its name from the limestones of a rich reddish-brown color seen along the cliffs. Tiie water itself, instead ofj)eing red, is a beautiful, clear greenish-blue. I secured a bottlj of it Since entering tlie sea, some of our passengers have been trying to keep cool by moving their beds of nights from their cabins to the saloons and decks. The heat is particularly hard on our whisky and beer guzzlers; the rest of us sutfer but little. We find much interest and pleasure in watching the numerous ships going to and fro over this great '\ world's thoroughfare. About half-way along on the eastern shore of the Red Sea is the Arabian town of Jiddah, also written Djiddah; but our boat did not go near enough to give us a sight of it. The town is the landing place of the pilgrims on their way to jj IVIecca, which is about forty-five miles away. It is i estimated that the average number of pilgrims that land here annually is about 40,000. We saw ships crowded with these pilgrims returning from their holy city. 3 ,i» LETTER XVII. Israel's passage through the red sea. We are in the land of the Pharaoh8,and are touch- ing the borders of sacred history. We reached Suez on Monday morning, June 25, at 10 o'clock, and dropped anchor in plain view of the town. We had a splendid night's rest, the air being refreshingly cool and the sea remarkably smooth. We arose at four o'clock and turned our glasses towards the east, hoping to catch a glimpse of Mount Sinai, which at times is plainly visible from a ship's deck on this sea. We were disappointed, the haze about the tops of the intervening hills obscuring our view. But we saw a beautiful sunrise, the sun shooting up sud- denly from behind the Arabian mountains like a great ball of fire, and moving majestically on his course. We next turned our attention to the place of IsraePs crossing and the destruction of the Egyptian hosts; and we obtained a most excellent view from both sides of our ship. We have no doubt that this crossing is correctly located by many a few miles south of the present head of the sea, and in sight of the new town which has sprung up near the en- trance to the Suez Canal. On our left, we could see 106 r Israel's passage through the red sea 107 distinctly where two mountain ranges, running par- allel to the sea, meet, leaving a gap between them through wliich Israel could pass; and beginning at the mouth of this gap, there is spread out a beauti- ful beach some two miles wide and several miles long, sloping gently down to the water. On this beach, no doubt, Israel camped "by the sea," and thus be- came "entangled in the land." Here the sea is about eight miles across and sufficiently deep for the w-aters to stand up as a "congealed wall unto them on their right hand and on their left " On our right, opposite this camping place, is seen the beautiful oasis known as The Fountains of Moses, situated on a sandy plain a mile from the seashore. Here the hosts of Tsrael could easily land, refresh themselves with an abundance of water, and witness the over- throw of the Egyptians in the depths of the sea At this point the land and the Book seem to agree in every detail; but from a close observation from this place along the canal all the way to Ismailia we are fully convinced that no other place on this line for the crossing for Israel will at all meet the require- ments of the Scriptures, and the devout Christian can accept no theory which takes no account of the inspired record, or flatly contradicts it. It is probably true, as Sir J. W. Dawson and others have ably argued from a geological point of view, that the Red Sea at one time did extend considerably farther north than its present position ; but it is not clear that this was the case at the time of Israel's crossing it. Indeed, as has been very clearly shown 108 OUR TOUR AROTTN'D THE WOULD by Professor A. H. Suycc, in hi^ nH^.out hook, enti- tled "The JliLTher Criticism aiui tlio Moniiineiils," a canal already existed as fur IukjU as lli(( sojonrn of Israel in Kgpyt, throni,Hi which sliii)s ciaild pass ("rum the Mediterranean to the Kcd Sea; and the mouth of this canal, built by the Pharaohs, and re-opened by Darius, is to be seen even now close to the town of Suez, thus showing tluit the Red Sea at the time of Israel's departure from Goshen, occupiinl about its present position. Any theory, therefore, sui)porte(l liy the supposed extension of the sea farther north- ward at the time of the passage of Israel can not be accepted, I never had many doubts respecting the place of Israel's crossing tlie Red Sea, and all these Jiave been completely set at rest by my personal ob- servations along the Gulf of Suez and the Suez Canal, coupled with a careful review of the whole subject. The troublo with some critics is, they assume the Bible statements to be untrue, and then they set to work to prove their owji "theories true. But true criticism allows the Bible to be true till proved false, and while it remains true all theories must be tested by its facts. While in the Suez Bay we were surrounded by small Arab boats, and some jugglers from among their occui)ants came on board and performed some astonishing feats. One of these grave-looking Arabs sat flat down on the deck, spread his handkerchief on the clean floor^ put his hands under the handker- chief and mumbled something in Arabic. He re- moved the handkerchief and, lol a beautiful mango ISRAEL'S PASSAGE TIIUOUGH THE RED SEA 109 ])laiit stiiod })efore you. IIo repented tlie process and till) plant l)ec'ani(> u troc willi dirt, roots, trunk, hrancheHj leaves and fruit. lie held up a chicken for your inspootion, then he api)eared to break it in two, when two chickens ran oil on deck lie would hand you a long white scurf and tell you to cut it into two pieces with your knife Then he took the two pieces, folded them together, Rf't the two ends on Hro, extinguished the fire and straightened out the scarf, and no sign of the knife or fire could he seen upon it. He took two pcn'son.-^ five paces a])art, placed a piece of money in the hand of one and told both to close their hands tight. He then told them to op,?n thcii' hands when th.'.i ni*)i;;'y had (lis,i[)p'>ared from the hand in which it liad licen I'.Icic.'d and wiis found in the h:uid of the .jtlirr pci'son. How wtnvi thesv3 and other e(|ually strange things d.iic? The passengers on whom ho op 'ral(.'d,\vith scores id" others looking (jii, were l)ent on detecting the secret of liis tricks; but they utterly failed. Our ship])ut on an acUlitionnl rudder, and arranged her powerful search-light, and at tw lv<' noon we weii'hed anchor and steamed into t he famous Suez canal, whicli is nearly one hniidi'ed mileM Joiig from sya to sea from two ]]undred to tlirin- hiuulred feet widi' at thr>. top, and sevenly-lw > feet at the l)ottore, and twenty-six feet deep, and winciing its way like a serpent through the sandy plain !)etween tiie tv. :> r-v.as. Sand, sand, sand, everywhere with a few loose camels strolling about at leisure and the glaring sun that made us adjust our green spectacles as a protection 110 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD to our eyes. Once our great boat stuck on the sand, but with skillful management she was soon floated off, and we moved on slowly, passing ugly dredges at short intervals, which are constantly at work keeping the canal in order. We increased our speed as we sailed through the Bitter Lakes; and finally at 7 p. M. we entered Lake Tiinsah, where we disem- barked for our trip through Egypt A tender came out from the wharf with an agent and interpreter to meet us. As our little boat steamed awav tlio decks of the great ship were lined with the passengers who waved us a kindly good-bye. Thus we took our final leave of Her Majesty's magnificent S. S. Oro- tava. ■•=^'«"^ <~^^m" LETTER XVIIL FROM ISMAILIA TO CAIRO. On landing atlsmailiawe were near to, if, indeed, not exactly in, the land of Goshen ; and since the departure of Israel, the frogs have also come np to view this goodly spot. In the evening we saw one hopping through the reception room of our hotel, and all night their croaking in the lake near by reminded us of the second plague. Lake Timsah, through which the Suez Canal passes, is a beautiful sheet of water, nine miles in circumference. Timsah is an Arabic word, meaning crocodile. But the crocodiles have all disappeared, and a person can bathe anywhere in the lake with perfect safety. On the northwestern shore of this lake stands the town of Ismailia, which was mainly built up during the construction of the canal. It has a population of between four and five thousand, comprising French, Greek and Arab quar- ters. Its broad macadamized streets and regular squares are bordered with shade trees, which afford protection from the sun and impart a pleasing ap- pearance to the town. Around the wharf, at the foot of the principal street, there is lying quite a fleet of Arab boats and small steam launches, while a sig- nal station stands on the shore a few paces away. Here the agent of Thomas Cook & Son, who had 111 t I ^ 112 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD landed us from our steamer, assisted us to pass through the small Custom House, conducted us to the Victoria, a French hotel, and put us into very pleasant quarters. The broad balcony, on to which the door of our room opened, overlooked a court em- bowered in trees, shrubs and vines, laden with beau- tiful flowers and tropical fruits. In the morning, accompanied by a guide, we took a stroll through the town and saw the temporary home of the late M. de Lesseps durnig the building of the. canal. We also saw a villa of the Khedive and walked through its beautiful gardens; and examined a collection of ancient monuments standing in the public square, having been brought from the Scrip- ture Pithom about twelve miles away. In this inter- esting collection are three sitting figures in Syene granite a little larger than life The central one is Rameses 11. , and the gods Ra and Tum sit at either side. "There is also a monumental stone of the same granite, inscribed with the record of the building of the temple, a monolithic sanctuary and sphinx, cut in the brown quartzite of Jebel Ahmar, and two large sphinxes in the porphyritic dioriteof Assouan. All these objects are in the best style of the art of the nineteenth dynasty, and, as set up in one of the chief cities of Goshen, were badges of the subjection of the Hebrews to the king and his gods." During this walk we had our first experience with the Egyptian donkey boys, who crowded around us, extolled the merits of their respective donkeys, and begged us to ride. We returned to our hotel, had a PROM I8MAILIA TO CAIRO 118 delightful bath in the lake and gathered some nice shells from the waters. At noon we took our lunch, and at 1:25 p. m. we started on our journey to Cairo, which is about ninety-nine miles distant. We secured a compartment to ourselves, purchased a supply of delicious melons, and our train went puffing through the land of Goshen. We can now understand better than ever before why the children of Israel in the wilderness remembered and longed for the melons of Ei^ypt, We noted fifteen stations along the line, Zagazig and one or two others being towns of considerable importance. It is now generally understood that the Scripture Goshen comprises a narrow valley of cultivated soil, with desert on both sides, about eighty miles long, beginning northeast of Cairo, and extending east- ward nearly as far as Ismailia. Tliis valley is now one of the most beautiful districts in P^gypt, the fer- tile land being covered with luxuriant crops, numer- ous sheep and cattle, large groves of date-palms and populous villagds. We saw one herd containing probably four hundred camels, grazing; and on the back of one, going eastward, we counted fivo women and a number of small children. On the back of donkeys we saw men riding who were larger than the donkeys. When our train stopped at a station Egyp- lian girls came alongside the windows with earthen jugs on their heads, saying, " il/o//c/i," the Arab word for water, which they hoped to 8(!ll to the passen- gers, as this train did not carry drinking water. At several stations we saw beautiful flower-beds near the homes of the people. 114 OUR TOUR AKOFND THE WORLD Our first station out from Ismailia wasMashama; and here is the site of the Scripture Fithoni, which is distinctly visible from the railway, and "presents the remains of fortifications and extensive granaries of crude bricks." Here is where the children of Israel bent their backs under the cruel bondage of the Pharaoh who "knew not Joseph" and under the increasing burdens of the task-masters Here are to be seen the bricks the Israelites made and the remains of the city and temples they built as unmistakable monuments of the truthfulness cf the Scripture nar- rative respecting God's chosen people in Egypt. It was difficult for us to realize that we were actuallv in the land of Goshen and on the site of one of the "treasure-cities." Hence as we were hurried along through this section of country, our minds were full of the passing events of sacred history, and this, coupled with the strange scenes by which we were surrounded, made our trip n very enjoyable one. We reached Cairo at 5:30 p. m , and on approaching the city we had from the car window our first view of the Gizeh Pyramids, of which we will speak in a sub- sequent letter. ( 4» t LETTER XIX. OFF TO THE PYRAMIDS. Arriving at the Egyptian caj)ital, and being settled in our rooms, we first mingled witli the curious crowds on the streets, and then sat on tlie balcony of our hotel, four stories up, till late in the night, enjoying the refreshing air and looking down on the hetero- geneous mass of moving humanity. Yonder, across the Nile, we thought, stands one of the wonders of the ancient world ; and here at our feet is a wonder of the modern world. All Cairo seems to turn out in the evening, and the walks, streets and park-like reserves are thronged with people till the middle of the night. A number of brown-back crows came and took up their nocturnal abode in the branches of the trees bordering the l)road sidewalks ojiposite us, and we finally retired to enjoy sweet rest. According to arrangemen't, at 8 o'clock next morn- ing a carriage, containing a competent guide, called at our hotel door; we ste[)i)ed into it and were off to the Pyramids of Gizcdi. These pyramids are situated eight miles west of Cairo, on a low rocky plateau at the edge of the Libyan Desert, above the highest water mark; and, hence,like all the pyramids 115 116 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD along its banks, are on the western side of the Nile. Our drive took us through some of the best of the European parts of the city, down to the beautiful and substantial iron bridge 1,200 feet long, which spans the Nile, and of wiiich the people are rightly proud. Just before reaching the bridge the pyra- mids came into view, and, except when hid by the intervening tree- tops, remained visible the rest of the way. At fir.-^t sight they were disappointing, appearing small, and too steep and smooth to be ascended ; but the nearer we came to them the grand- er they loomed up, till, finally, when we stood at their base, we felt that their grandeur could scarcely bo realized or overestimated. Crossing the bridge we drove for some distance along the bank of the river, and then leaving the river we went due west till the pyramids were reached. The road, the entire dis- tance, is elevated, broad, macadamized, and bordered with acacia trees, whose branches meet overhead, thus forming a shaded avenue. The road was con- structed by tlie Khedive in 1868 for the Prince of Wales and party, the stone for the purpose being taken from the pyramids Along most of the route, on both sides of the road, were numerous plots of ground covered with melons, interspersed with small fields of Indian corn approaching maturity; and i here and there were to he seen half-nude peasants working the ground with primitive-looking imple- ments, or standing guard over their property. At the base of the Gnjat Pyramid we rested in a small stone house built for the purpose, refreshed 9 i 4 1' i Alii *», ^( i-'^M?' -..T;/. >;r' •'■:■ .:■: ii j^' H H O H S ■< > OS o u N o o o < a. I "TTTTS- oFF i() TRL F-VKAMiDit 117 b M _) U S H O H S < OS > H OS o S U N o o Q 0U iirs^'^fs a a (leliiiious iin^loi], contrHcteil wiili tho •»h(>»i> • tf tliH .vr;;l) vi!l»g«> ii;\vu- i)y tor iiiiio of his Ui**.. Mhi''^^ tor i»H<5h of lis;) io assirt! uU(d theu we b'gno thf^ nvrfur. '•iliirnili !" shouted the Arni)s, *'>.iK) ciiii ^^^H^^h tijo toj) FirHt?"' Id wuh oxoitii)^, !'»l)or('>UH HI i N'>»nf'\v>iM«. !u work. The mode m" proeediii-*' i>*. iins, linri.i-iy: Two sure-footed Arubs •i'np upon fht' «ii- n u^ovm vou, and one takos eacij ot N'our (I'^UK^i' ^ ,..(*•'' ?.. i!t!i.'(l i'»it *tjnt(!M in:Ahijid you [o yitnh ft' i:*' oi.'-^^;'' tw^- mv:;- iltM: prtx't^SH 18 re- pHM'^ • '■::.-^ -i;- ''o f'. f*'m-??''^ \a^\- our rt^nuerkj wtep I'j*; i ; ""^ «v ^stt' <*(<'.v- Win Jutvt' ^^oJ{lr itu-ft of \vhat it ^ ' -r .'(!«?' i,chHt.- didsi^ht Ml tM"iv ^v,;rt; 14^,; ,,., (I'oM'l'i' ilie iXiteH luimeH t h-y h?: \ • M«1i;j?iw^ w;^ '»/!ru<..i \aft,rtlh'd Al)ri*' Htu, rtJMt'Hi i«jftft(?, ao.5 ?=t;I: aii*/*!"*''" J««:oh Tliev s(':"':hshi.>,]( io !'X('h;ii.igo fi-r Kgyp- tinr. tviio^; N» -M t.i- loideratanding tluit. he was to tak»' ii|> 'ii^ elsft^i,;.- -..{h ua much en. ^t,* and graee as I'. ■ ... ^s^ M '•'if'^-^.ji^ ■■■'■»,'•- Ti^ OFF TO THE PVRAMfDS 117 -J ourselves on n delioioiis melon, (5oiitracted with the sheikh of the Anif) village near by for nine of his men (three for each of us) to assist us, and then we l)egan the ascent. ^'Hurrah 1" shouted the Arabs, "wiio can reuch the top first?" It was exciting, laborious and somewhat ludicrous work. The mode of procedure is tiiis, iuim(}ly: Two sure-footed Arabs leap upon the step above you, and one takes each of y(jur hands, while the third one stands behind you to push as the otlier two pull. This process is re- peated till the top is reached. Let our readers step from the floor on to the mantel or the bureau about 160 times, and they will have some idea of what it is to climb this pyramid, liut up, up, we went, with short pauses at intervals, till the platform, about thirty feet square at the summit, was reached. When iMrs. Trotter and Master John touched the pole erect- ed in the center of this square, the Arabs gave a shout of triumph, and then, like so many geese,chat- tered to our annoyance. These Arabs take great delight in their work and are proud of the noted names they have adopted. One of them was called Abraham, another Isaac, and still another Jacob. They seemed to know an American at sight, and they had all heard of Mark Twain. The only lady of our party of three was specially honored with the assist- ance of Abraliam; and I am of the opinion that ou the way to the top of the pyramid Abraham managed to get a little extra hakhshish in exchange for Egyp- tian relics with the understanding that he was to take up his charge with as much ease and grace as 118 OUK TOUK AKUlfNI) THK WORLD could be coinninudttd luulorthncinuimstaiiceH. These athletic fellows iniike good use of the fnw simple words of English they have learned. The discharge of the time-gun in the city reminded us that it was exactly twelve o'clock noon, June ii7, 1894. With a sweep of the field glass, there was spread out before us the most magnificent and inter- esting view on which we had ever gazed. Above was the cloudless sky, through which the brilliant rays of the sun fell on us; beneath us stood one of the marvels of ancient and modern time; to the west was the Libyan Desert stretching its yellow sand as far as the eye could see; to the east was Cairo with its suburbs extending itself among the green trees and pointing its domes and minarets heavenward; and beginning at the far south and continuing towards the north till lost in the dim distance, lay the rich valley dotted with groves, fields and villages, and which, during the inundation, becomes a vast lake, and through this valley was winding the majestic Nile, full of historic associations, finally mingling it waters witli those of the Mediterranean Sea. Also a few miles to the south, on the western bank of the Nile, could be plainly seen the cluster of pyramids about the ruins of ancient Memphis. After spending some time with these charming scenes, we descended to within forty-eight feet of the ground on the northern side of the pyramid, and entered a passage nearly four feet square, and with some difficulty and fatigue we went first down and then up, creeping through narrow openings and OVV TO THE PYKAMIIJH 11',) sci'ttinljlinj^ ovor roiij^h plncios till wh (3xp]ore(l the interior to our aalisf'jiction. A detailed description of this exph)rati()ii 1 will not attempt in these brief letters, but v, ill refer our readers to the numerous books whicli have been written on the subject. We returned to the surface fairly exhausted, for the aw- ful gloom, lack of pure air and the difficulties experi- enced in moving about have a most depressing effect on one. Only strong, well people should enter the pyramid, as numbers, especially ladies, have been carried out of it in an unconscious condition. The Great Pyramid stands precisely to the four points of the compass, covers thirteen acres of ground, and is 451 feet high, its original height being 488 '^' feet. Near by stand two other pyramids, the larger of the two being only a few feet smaller than the great one. They are usually designated as the Great, Second and Third pyramids. We gave an Arab a franc to run down the Great one and ascend to the top of the Second one in eight minutes. He earned his money. There can be but little doubt that the general purp(jse of the pramids was to serve as royal tombs. The Great Pyramid was built by Cheops, the ^ second king of the fourth dynasty, who lived about #5,700 years before Christ. The pyramid was doubt- | less intended for the reception of his own body and I that of his wife. Herodotus represents Cheops as spending ten years in making the causeway for the transfer of the materials and twenty more years in the construction of the pyramid. On this great I work he employed 100,000 men, who were relieved at | i' intervals of three months 120 OUR TOUR AROUND THBJ WORLI> We next examined the sphinx, about a quarter oi \j a mile away, and wljich is probably older than the ^ pyramids and almost of ecpial interest with them. Since the outstretched forelegs have been exposed by the digging away of the sand, this wonderful piece of sculpture appears to better advantage. It was ^ chiseled out of the solid rock lying on the spot, and following Professor McGarvey's measurements, "the length of the back, measured from the back of the neck to the haunches, is 128 feet, "it lifts its head up from the pavement on which it reclines, 66 feet high, and shows a breadth of face 18 feet and 8 inches, with a mouth 7 feet and 7 inches wide. During its eastern gaze, for centuries past, it has silently wit- nessed the rise and fall of many empires and the destiny of many peojjles. When you are finished with the Arab assistants, their persistent clamor for 6aM67iM becomes an in- tolerable nuisance. About the only things to which they would give heed were the commands of the old sheikh and the vigorous wielding of a club in the hands of our dragoman. We beat them oft', ''and after the uproar was Cb^ised" we returned to the shade of the trees along the road, and took our lunch. We then drove along the Nile near to the spot where tradition says Pharaoh's daughter found Moses in the ark of bulrushes, and being provided with our bathing costumes, we all had a delightful bath in the river, which was once the object of Egyptian worship. Though we paid for it with stilf limbs days afterwards, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the pyramids. \ \ } I LETTER XX. AMONG THE ROYAL MUMMIES. I 121 What was formerly the Boiilak Museum has now become the Museum of Gizeh. The palace of the ' viceroy, Ismail Pasha, at " (Jizeh, a suburb of Cairo, has been transformed into a museum, and the store of Egyptian treasures belonging to the Ancient, Middle and Modern Empires has been brought from Boulak, and arranged in it. The building is a mag- I ] nificent and spacious one, and it costabout$25,000,- 000. It is surrounded by an extensive and beautiful park, laid out in European style, the walks of which ^ are a Mosaic pavement made of round pebbles I brought from the desert and arranged in exquisite i designs, There is also a very beautiful garden in the second story of the palace covered with a glass roof, and known as the Harem Garden. The pilace is situated on the road leading to the | Gizeh Pyramids, which was described inthepreced- I ing letter, and about one-tliird of the way out from I Cairo. Crossing the large bridge over the Nile, and ^ following the tine avenue along the edge of the river, I passing on the right tlie water-works for irrigation, I the court-house and the Agricultural College, we | came to the entrance gate to the park of the muse- I I' I-- OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD um. This gate was ()peD(3d to us at S:HO a. m., and our carriage drove riglit up to tlie door. We depos- ited our umbrellas in the entrance room, and we then began our wanderings among the curious and intensely interesting monuments systematically ar- ranged in this building of nearly JOU rooms. This museum furnishes no catalogue in English, and the monuments are mostly nuirked in French. But hav- ing a reliable guide, we were not wholly dependent on the French catalogue. We saw halls crowded with fine statues, beautiful sarcophagi, cases of val- uable jewelry, funeral scarabs, mummies of animals, men, women and children, and many other things too numerous to mention. We examined the Book of the Dead, written on papyrus, and measured the hand of a statue of Rameses II., and found it twenty inches across the back. We saw on the wall a paint- ing representing a number of geese, which some scholars think is probably tiie oldest painting in the world, carrying us back some 4,0(X) years. These geese are so perfect in their outline and coloring that they would do credit to any modern book on natural history. We also saw a curiously-constructed mirror of modern invention, which presented twenty- one distinct inuiges of ourselves as we stood before it, showing every part of the body. But there was one room which we were especially desirous of en- tering, and that was "The Hall of the Royal Mum- mies." It was in 1881 when that remarkable discovery was made of some thirty- six mummies of kings, f AMONG THE ROYAL MUMMIES 128 queens, princos,i)riii(;((S8('8 nnd high ])riestsat Deir el Bahari near the ruins of ancient Thebes, on the Nile in Upper Egypt, and which so suddenly sent the scientific world inio a fever of excitement. These mummies are now to be seen nicely arranged in this Royal Hall, and the interminable line of tourists is passing by looking into their faces. The first one on whom we gazed was Rameses II., the real Pharaoh who oppressed Israel. His face is long and slim, with prominent cheekbones, small eyes, arched nose, thick lips, and a few locks of hair on the head. The body is draped in linen cloth, called mummy cloth. Next to him lies his father, Seti I., the Pharaoh who began the oppression, and whose daughter found Moses in the ark of bulrushes, and adopted him. Then came Thotmes III., Thotmes II., Rameses III., and six other royal mummies lying close together, the skin of the first two named being quite black. After passing the kings, queens, princes and prin- cesses, we came to the high priests. The richly decorated lids of the colHns are laid on one side. Many of the mummies are entirely unrolled, showing the body slightly draped, with the head, hands and feet uncovered, while others retain all the covering in which they were laid away centuries ugo. Some of them are so well preserved that even the charac- teristic traits of the features are visible. It is a significant fact that the body of the Pharaoh who led the Egyptians in pursuit of the depart- ing Israelites, is not found among this or any other collection. Was he drowned in the lied Sea? 124 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD We lingered a long time in this hall; and as we stood before this array of niunimied royalty, and looked on the very forms and features of men and women who conversed with Moses, saw the children of Israel bending their backs under the increasing burdens, and whose words are recorded for our in- struction, we seemed to see the ancient peoples and monuments of Egypt rising up as living witnesses to the historical correctness and divine origin of the holy Scriptures. The people who painted these pic- tures, chiseled these statues, built these pyramids, wrote their historj' on these monuments, and pre- pared these mummies, were not savages, slightly re- moved from the brute creation in the Darwinian l)rocess of evolution. If this so-called process of evolution has not been discernible since these Egyp- tians lived and taught sciences and practiced arts nearly 5,000 years ago, which the world has Jiot been able to restore, how long would it require to evolve a perfect man out of a moneron or a tadpole? It would necessitate the existence of man on the earth ages before it, according to astronomy, ceased to be a red-hot ball! Verily, such a process of evo- lution begins and ends in the human brain only. LETTER XXI. AMONG THE M08QUK8 AND BAZAARS. Before leaving Cairo we spent one day visiting the principal mosques, bazaars, and other objects of in- terest in the city. On this day we dispensed with tlie carriage and regular guide, and had a rich ex- perience with the Egyptian donkey-riding and donkey boys We made this change for two reasons: first, we wanted the experience of donkey-riding, and, secondly, we could go on these animals among the bazaars and through the out-of-the-way places where a carriage could not take us. These boys are a curi- osity, and are an interesting study for the tourist. Most of them can speak a few words of Englisli, French and German, and as they are thoroughly acquainted with the city, they make tolerable guides. Both the donkeys and their drivers understand their business. The donkeys are the street cars and ele- vated railways of Cairo; and the great body of the people, of all classes, who ride at all, use them freely. There are no strikes on these lines. When our outfit presented itself before our hotel, we hesitated to mount; for in the first place, the little creatures did not seem large enough to carry the weight; and thgn we wondered how we could 125 126 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD ride on them without, tumbling off. But the saddles were P:uropean and well secured, and once on them, we were delighted with the easy manner in which we were carried along The hair on the body and limbs of these animals was cut into fancy patterns reminding us of the hieroglyphics on the monuments.' Their names were, respectively, Ginger, Flying Dutchman and Yankee Doodle, Mrs T. was honored with the Flying Dutchman, which more than once got her into trouble. Once he refused to climb a night of steps in our path, and the boys said, "Be quiet, hidy; we'll help up," and four of them seized a leg each and carried up donkey and all! I have been asked what I did with my feet. I prefer leav- ing such details to be filled in by the imagination of our readers. VV^e first visited the Citadel, which is built on the ilank of a hill overlooking the city. The Citadel was erected in A. D. 11(56, by Saladin, and the stone for its walls and buildings was mainly brought from the small pyramid at Gizeh. Within the walls are many objects of interest. The pahice, built by Mohammed Ali, is occupied by British officers, and it contains a number of fine rooms. Our entrance was by a mas- sive arched gateway and thence along a winding path to the highest part of the Citadel. It was in this road the slaughter of the Mamelukes took place in 1811. We saw the track left by the horse on which the only survivor made his escape by spurring his nobl(! animal over the batllemonti It has bpen chis- eled in a large rock on the top of the present wall, i r AMONG THE MOSQUES AND BAZAARS 127 and appears quite fresh. Near here is Joseph's well, with which, contrary to the opinion of many, the Joseph of Scripture evidently had nothing to do. It took its name from Saladin, whose Arabic name was Jusup, and it was discovered during the building of the Citadel. It is estimated to be 295 feet deep, its bottom is thought to be on a level with the Nile and it is descended by a stairway. From the Cita- del a tine view is obtained of the city and surround- ing country. There are more than 800 mosques in Cairo, and two of the principal ones we visited. Tlie Mosque of Mohammed Ali stands within the precincts of the Citadel, and it is built after the plan of the Mosqu>' of St. Sophia at Constantinople. It is a magnifi- cent structure. The great court is paved with ala- baster and is surrounded with a row of columns; and the whole is surmounted by a dome supported by two massive pillars. In the center is the basin for ablutions before prayer, at which our local guide washed his hands and feet before accompanying us through the building, and in the east corner is the tomb of Mohammed Ali. The Mosque of Sultan Hassan, just below the Citadel, is also one of the finest mosques in Cairo; and before entering either of these sacred l)uildings, the visitor is required to have his feet cased in slippers provided at the door. One of my slippers came ort while treading on a par- ticularly sacred s])()t. Tlie attendant smiled, and made haste to replace it; l)ut not b(»toie I had made at least one unholy track. We next wound our way I 1 \ 128 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD tlirough the narrow afreets iukI ciirioiis'bazaars of old Cairo, where the motley Oriental people are crowded together like bees in a hive, and where we saw many very strange and interesting things. We met a funeral procession, the coffin being carried on the shoulders of four men. Cairo has a population of some 400,000, represent- ing nearly every nation under heaven, especially the Oriental countries. But the great mass of the peo- ple are the native Egyptians, with over 20,000 Euro- peans. The city undoubtedly presents the most motley crowd we have ever seen, and the visitor meets with many very strange things. The Oriental people m(jslly wear very loose clothing, which is frequently aug- mented liy a long flowing robe. It looks as if the whole city had turned out in bloomers in every shade of color. The rich Aral) rides a large white donkey whose head is decked with bright colored tassels and around whose neck jingle brass and bead chains. The rider has no stirrups and he swings his feet back and forth as if he were keeping time to the movements of the donkey. He wears white stockings, and over these a pair of pointed red slippers to match his red turban. The women wear veils, with an upright gilt ornament on the forehead to keep the veil in place. Water-carriers are on the streets with their goat- skins full of water slung across their shoulders, and the constant clang,clang,clang,of their brass cups is heard everywhere. Occasionally a carriage in which are some noted persons dashes through the streets, and before it are runnning two gorgeously dressed r AMONG THE MOSQUES AND BAZAARS 129 iiHtives with long sticks in their handn to clear the way for the carriage. And so the strange tide of liu- manity in this great city ever ebbs and flows. We were highly satisfied with our donkey-riding experience, and when we returned to our hotel we enjoyed the rest all the more in consequence of it. We were also pleased with our hotel accoinniodation. The Conteret Hotel proved to be a nice, quiet place where every courtesy was shown us. We were al- ways received at the breakfast table by the lady in charge with a hearty honjour. As only French was spoken, we sometimes had a little innocent amuse- ment at the expense of our attendants. Once our lady trotter called for a light, and she was furnished with a black bottle of wine. We w<'re not mucli surprised at this mistake, for the first and last thing for which most Am(!ricans call when in Cairo is wine, or something stronger, notwithstanding their tem- perance sentiments and habits at Jionio. Their ex- cuse is, the water in Cairo is bad. The trouble with these gentlemen and ladies is that they find the water bad everywhere they go. At our hotel the wine bot- tle and glass were always sitting at our plate to l)e used without extra charge, and the French people who sat at the table with us were amazed that we did not touch them. Wo happened to know, however, that the Nile water, with which Cairo is supplied, is quite pure, and, with a lunq) of ice in it, wonder- fully refreshing. I wish further to place on r. cord at this point the fact that we have lived in m.-niy kinds of climate and have traveled entirely nroiml -1 ^^B_J_ IBO OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD t lie globe without finding the necessity for the use of strong drink, ^^ear our hotel was situated the Egyptian Mission of the United Presbyterian Church of America, wliich 1 liad the pleasure of visiting and from which I gathered much information respecting the excellent work being done by this mission. We took our dei)urture from Cairo for Alexandria at 4:45 p. m., June 28, and we had a delightful ride on the train through a beautiful c devoid of special interest. We had sat at English, Indian, French and Egyptian tables, and now we ,' are to have a German supper on a boat on which only German is spoken. Well, here it is in eleven } courses: I Soup. 2. Sardines and prunes. 8. Boiled fish and sauce. 4. Beefsteak, greens and Irish potatoes. 5. Veal chops, nicely wrapped in white ! tissue paper. 6. Chicken and lettuce. 7. Cheese ' and bread. 8. Iced pudding. 9. Cherries, apricots. f«« I l' .-i r4^ FROM EGYPT TO PALESTINE 185 bananas and muskmelon. 10. Coffee, ice-water and wine. 11. Smoking. At each place there was a stack of plates — ten in number — and you commenced with the top one and kept eating till you got to the bottom. I do not mean that you eat the plates; but that you use a single plate for each course of food. I also include the smoking in the bill of fare, for with the men it seemed to be a part of the regular courses. They smoked their cigars over the table, as the proper thing to do, asking no questions for — I was about to say, "for conscience' sake," but I am afraid the fire of the cigar has so seared their con- sciences that this faculty is not consulted in the mat- ter. We sacrificed what little German etiquette we possessed, and retired before this course was iinished. After a pleasant night's rest, we arose early next morning to have our first view of the Holy Land. LETTER XXni. LANDING AT JOPPA. To one who has had a strong desire, from youth up, to visit the scenes of Christ and the Apostles, and is on the eve, for tlie first time, of satisfying this desire, the approach to the Holy Land creates within him an interest akin to excitement He ex- periences the strange sensation of gazing upon a land sacred above all other places, and, in many respects, unlike any other land. Our approach was on a beautiful Sunday morning in June. We arose with the sun and went on the deck of our German boat to catch the first glimpse of Canaan's shores. The first object we could make out was Gaza, far south of us, toward which the eunuch was driving in his chariot from Jerusalem, when he was baptized by Philip. A little later the bluisii heights of the Judean mountains inthedis- tancs the yellow JMediterranean shore, and finally Jnppa, rising in terraces from the water's edge, like a fortress (.n the slope of a hill, with trees dotting the shore at the southern end, came into view. The English school for girls, and some other European t>iyl70 souls. About 15,a)0 pilgrims land here annually on tlieir way to Jerusalem, and to these Jo])pa owes "luch ot Its present importance. Its expc.rtsare con- Hiderab e, and consist of soap, Indian corn, oranges and other fruits, melons and wine of Sharon The population is estimated at 28,000, of whom 12 OW) are Mohammedans, 0,000 Christians and 5,000 Jews The Bedouin Arabs bring into the town much wheat on the backs of camels and donkeys. Wc saw one o these dusky "sons of the desert" driving through th. streets twenty-five camels, all tied together and walking ,n single tile about ten feet apart, with high heads, SNvn.ging gait and independent airs The ornnge gr..ves in and almut Joppn are extensive, and ti-' oranoes ,,ro large, seedless and h.scious. Lemons pomegranates and other fruits are also extensively I IN JOPPA I4:i Srowii liere. Indeed, the scene for miles around is ojie of luxuriant beauty; and many of the groves and orchards are enclosed with impenetrable prickly cac- tus hedges. There are four hotels in the town and a number of hospices. Soon after arriving at ourh(.tel we were introduced to our dragoman, Abraham Lyons, an Austrian, who clainis to speak eight languages. He s])eaks good English, so far as his vocabulary goes, Under his care we entered upon our work immediately. We were first driven to the traditional house of Simon the tanner, where Peter lodged and saw the vision. It is an old, dilapidated-looking stone house, with a stairway on the outside, leading to the Hat roof. At the foot of the stairway is a beautiful fig tree, and a well from which you may take a cool draught of water; and on an adjoining roof is a small light- house. It is "by the seaside," and commands a fine view. The keeper of the i)Iace, who takes in the pennies from the sight-seers, appears to be in keeping with the shabby building; and one of the things to be remembered is the fact that the jdace is infested with millions of fieas. Peter is not the only visitor to the spot who has had visions of "creeping things'' while trying to sleep. We saw an old tannery near by, and while we do not believe this house is the identical house of Simon, we think it probable that his house was not unlike this one, and that it could not have l)een far away. This IxMog Sunday, we next attended Episcopal Church service at II a. m. The place was near our !l T lU OUK TOUK AROUND THE WORLD liotel, and we pussed romid what appeared to be a private dwelling and entered a back room about twenty feet square, with two doors, two small windows, plain seats, and a few neat Scripture mottoes on the wall. The preacher read for his lesson the account of Peter's visit to Jonpa and his raising Dorcas to life, and read a short -ermon ill English, his wife presiding at the small organ. There were present two men, two women, two boys, the preacher and his wife, two of us and our drago- man, eleven in all The Scripture narratives seemed to take a living form when read on the ground around which the scenes dHscribed transpired. A represent- ative of this mission was soliciting money with which to erect a church building. We contributed our mite; but we are of the (.pinion that the preacher in cimrge will nut convert Joppa very soon. After having our dinner and taking a short rest, our carriage called at the hotel to take us on our journey towards Jerusalem. LETTER XXV. GOING UP TO JERUSALEM. ''And after those dHys we took up our carrijigefl, and went up to Jerusalem." TJiis is what Luke says in Acts xxi. 15 respecting Paul's tinal visit to the Holy City. But the apostle and his companions went up from Cacsarea; we went up from Jnp()}i, farther south on the same seacoast. Tiiey "took up" their "'carriages;" our carriage took us up. Their carriages consisted in their light Oriental hand-hag- gage; our carriage was a nice two-horse vehicle, with a top and movable side-curtains, so as to protect us from the sun and at the same time alTord a line view of our surroundings. We all probably went up the last part of the journey by the same road, the road which was trodden by the feet of the prophets, apostles and Jesus himself; tlie roail t)ver which the ark of God was })orne in triumph to Mount Zion, and the road wiiich, in later times, was made to echo with "the tramp of Roman legions and the war-cry of the Crusaders. " This roa OITR TolK auoinu thk wokld JigHiitH allowed us to take our choice between the two ways of going up. As we wished to see as n)uch of the country as we could, wedccided to go hy the road and return by rail. The station at hxWti is in the northeastern suburb of the town, on the scasliore, near the German Col- ony. On leaving tlie station, the train niakesacurve to the northeast, skirting the beautiful orange and lemon plantations, then turning in a southeastern s, and iuid a nnignifi<*ent view. Luxuriant orchards spread out liel'ore us, and to the northeast was JiVdda, now called Lmhl, where Peter raised yKneas from his sick b«'d, and far beyond this was Mount Gerizim, lifting its head uj) '2,KV.) feet above the level of the sea, with a w' ite Mohammedan tomb more than half-way up its side. Ramleh is not mentioned in the Scriptures, but is a more mod- ern town of some importance, having a p^tpulatioo of 8,000, about l,(KlOofwhom are (Ireek Catholics. The town ])ossespes so soap l'aet(>ries,C()nvents and mosrpies. The tradition that Hamleh (M)rrespondH with the Ariniathea of the New Testament in which lived .Jose|)li who lai green fruit. Passing over tlit* hill, in a few minutes wt^ v.iwwi to Kirjath-jearim, where the ark of (rod remained for twenty years. It is a vilhigi^ on the right, close to the rojul, com- prising altout loo si^uare, flat-roof»»d stone houses, surrounded with olive, orange, nuil berry, pomegran- i 152 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD at.« and a few other ti'HHs, ami built on the side of a | hill. We now deHccmN'd raj)i(lly by a zig-zag course ' into the uj)|M'r part of the Valley of Sorek, where tradition has |)lac('(l the eelehrated conflict between David and (Joliaih, but tiie site does not agree with the Scriptiiri' narrative of the event. It was somewhere in tliis valley Samson visited the infa- mous Delilah, who was the occasion of his destruc- tion. Here is Kuloniyeh, a nice little place with orchards, gardcuis and groves, and is a resting place for travellers. A short distance along the valley to nur right is Ai)i Karltn, a fresh-looking village, with a Catholic church, and surrounded by beautifully terraced hills set in olive, tig and other fruit tre( s, and is the traditional birthplace of John the Ha]-- tist. It is certainly in "the hill country" of Judea. To our left was ancient Mizpeh, a high, conical hill crowned by a moscpie with a minaret, of which we i had a fine view before descending into the valley. ' We refreshed ourselv«-s in a cafe, gathered sonx^ "smooth stones out of the brook," near where the bridge spans it, in memory of David's victory over i (.foliath, and then slowly followed the winding road up the hill for about four miles, and lo! Jerusalem came iu sight '1 LETTER XXVI. IN JERUSALEM. Our experience on approacliing .Jerusalem was un- like that of sonie traveller.s. We siicd no tears on sighting tlie Holy City. Our eyes were too busy with interesting seenes to l)e dinuned with tears. The saddest tinie to us was on taking leave of the city, when its walls, domes and towers, one by one, gra«l- ually faded from our view, probably forever, as our train moved toward .]o])pa. The tirst objects we saw were the houses compris- ing the new luiropean suburl), through which we passed on tiie northwestern side of the old city. J Then the surrounding hills south and east of the city, including the Mount of Olives, and finally tiie ^ walls came into view. At 5:80 p. m. we reac^hed Howard's Hotel, a magnificent stone building just outside the Joi)pa gate, owned by a wealthy Arab, and possessing every needed convenience and com- ' fort. Here in spacious and richly furnished rooms on the second floor we made our headquarters for seven days. At sunset we went on to the Hat r( f of the hotel, from which we could plainly see and readily locate almost every prominent obje(;t in and about the city. The Valley of G-ihon, with its ui)p(T ^ 163 i;>i ol'H TOUR AROUND THE WORLD aiul lower pools, overlooked by the walls of our hotel, the Valley of Hiiuiom, the Mount of Olives, Mount Scoi)us, the Joppa Gate, Tower of David, Church of tiic Holy Sepulchre, Dome of the Rock, and many other objects with which we had become familiar by reading, were in plain view. A short walk along David Street, as the night closed upon us, complb^ed (lur day's work, and we retired to rest with a strong ffM'ling of satisfaction and thankfulness that in the providence of Uod we had been brought thus far on our long journey. Though this was the second day of July, the night was delightfully cool, and we slept under blankets. At H o'clock next morning the ther- mometer in the shade registered only 05 degrees. This fact shows the folly of the notion entertained by most people that Palestine can not be visited dur- ing the summer season without great discomfort and oven dang<'r. .Jerusalem is perched on limestone hills, 2.589 feet above the level of the sea,and the surrounding coun- try mainly consists of hills on hills, mountains on mountains, rocky, bare and dreary, and valleys (called wiidicx) running in every direction The appearance (tf tiie city is Momewhat peculiar, and, to most peo- ple, disappointing. A fast walker could go outside the walls and walk entirely around Jerusalem in an hour, provided too many dogs and l)eggars are not in the way; and yet, owing to the unevennes'^ ol i\u) ground in some places, he would have to walk much fjirtlier tlian the actual distance on a level. The walls are two and one-half miles in circumference, 1 « .!'■•' 'A i.K>l » < • !, ' •'! If'-,'" '\ "Js •!. I V "i*'-'!!' ' '. I IVi '''i ],'.>■ *x< Vi- 4 I.I (• ;■: jw ' ' ' * ('i '»! r-" , !.i i • ■ ' . ^ ',.". i ■ ••< I. it )'.''!':.! ■ '•'.. 'i-'W .''■ril-;-J.:;' . • ■• ■ ' ■ ;' ;!>_ ,,',«it;.V Hi' S',''irM|n>'.i) • II. 'ill' ' ;, ' h*. . r ' •,. ,;•:!, I'Hr' '.! I'll'" s^nl! This ^ li .i'^ »i t h 'Iia' .; r 'i-^l -y . '' ■ t H : ,, -in' :.i (1 ;*)•< 1 •■• U ■'! l !:- '■ \ , < iah •■ • .'•' "• ■. t '.t I' ' .-I 11 i il' ' I .' '^ \ 'f ; ■.' ' i I .)■ I 1 1 ■ ' I . ( t ' . « ■■ k.. ;< » ' ■ ; s ■ 1 1 • >. '■ • '• i , ,1 !•!• ■ '1 , l;, .*"•. .,1 \.'.- : \ . . i ■ «J«A'.* '':» 'M.^ik ,1 -w 1' * -■ - 1 ^:^;^''#^-^ % ■f ,' :>■ .**: V ^ .^ V '|;^-|4 fSi' ■ Br«'; 4i:;«**^4gite*'^. !lt, •- » •4 IN JERUSALEM loo and the city, therefore, covers only about two hiiiulrHd and nine acres of ground. Of course, this estinnite does not include the new Jerusalnni, coniprisin^ mainly the European suburb on the northwosteni part of the wall. This suburb alone in now a consid- erable town, and in it are located the Consulates of Europe and America, the Russian property and vari- ous other important buildings. The houses in the old city are generally two stories high, are strongly built of stone, are whitewashed or plastercKl on the outside and from the centre of many of tiiellnt roofs rise small white domes of stone, reminding one of huge inverted teacups, and allowing ample room to walk all around these domes on the roof, or among them when more than one dome occui)ies the same roof, which is sometimes the case. N'iewed from an elevated position outside the walls, the city ap- pears small, decidedly knobby, and the houses are thrown together in such a compact and confus('ight gates, all of which are open except one. Starting from the west side and walking entirely around the outside of the walls, leaving the city on your right, you pass the following gates in the order named: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A {./ A i 1.0 1.25 |Z5 fSf" 2.2 1.1 l.'^l^ U 111.6 6" Vi 7: '^ > O 7 /A Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 dh 1 I 156 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD Joppa Gate, New Gate, Damascus Gate, Herod's Gate, St. Stephen's Gate, Golden G With some difficulty we managed to pass through this 1 i i gate once, and it is hardly necessary to inform travel- I] lers that once will be sufficient. 1 I i The money-changers are numerous about the Joppa | I i Gate, and also along the principal streets; and jutig- ing from their efforts to cheat us when getting a V sovereign turned into the currency of the country, they have not improved much since our Saviour drove them out of the temple. We felt like following his ; ( example, if we had only possessed the whip of cords i| and the courage to use it. And this leads me to say !; that nearly every kind of money is in circulation in I this country. The money puzzle was great enough in Egypt, but it is worse in Palestine. Your best way out of the difficulty is to get your money changed at the banks of Cook & Son, and make your pay- ments and gifts through your dragoman. It is also well to keep one eye on the dragoman. All Ameri- cans who visit Palestine are thought by the people ] ! , i IN JERUSALEM 157 there to be rich, and hence tlie sole interest of the beggars is to induce the traveller to empty out his pockets, and, having seized the contents, they straightway proceed to pull him to pieces, preserv- ing the bits as reminders of the good time they have had. One Arab outside the walls of the city, away from observation, became so persistent in his de- mands for bakhshish as to threaten violence, and I had to beat him off with the butt end of my umbrella. This erroneous notion of Americans is generated and perpetuated by the foolish action of some travellers who sow their money broadcast among the i)e()ple at the expense and annoyance of their less fortunate brethren who follow them. Such people ought to learn a lesson from the mistake of a preacher in Egypt during our visit there. On leaving Cairo a half-dozen Egyptian girls gathered about him witli their little water bottles on their heads, hoping to accompany him and sell him wat«r. To get rid of them, as he thought, he stood them in a row and supplied them liberally with bakhshish. But judgn of his surprise when this act was immediately noised abroad and his half-dozen became several times that number, who followed him about the country mak- ing his life a burden. Poor manl I hope he reached home in safety, a wiser if not a better man in con- sequence of his rich experience with Egyptian water girls. Asa rule bakhshish should never be given, except in consideration of some service rendered. In my next letter I hope to get back to .Ferusalem and teli you about what I saw on the inside of the walls. LETTER XXVII. INSIDE THE WALLS. In lookiDg on Jerusalem as it now stands, it is well to remember that we are not looking on the identical city whic3h David, Solomon, Nehemiah, Harod, Jesus, and the apostles saw. While the eternal hills, val- leys and plains surrounding the city are the identical (ines seen hj the eyes and trodden by the feet of the .Itiwish patriarchs, kings, prophets, apostles and first Christians, the city itself, from the Salem of Abra- ham's day to the Jerusalem of the present, has been B; subjected to no fewer than twenty-seven sieges, and undergone many changes. Indeed, there are here pi eight cities piled on top of one another. It is true |! that in Jerusalem are found many relics of the former |p cities; and when we couple this fact with the addi- tional one, namely, that the customs, costumes and architecture of this Oriental people remain the same from age to age, we may feel a satisfaction in the thought that the Jerusalem of to-day, on which we are looking, is practically the Jerusalem of Solomon and of Jesus- With this thought before us, let us enter this in- teresting city, ahout which (sluHtor so many sacred memories and hallowed associations, and examine 158 I ! INSIDE THE WALLS l'"/.) its streets, bazaars, principal buildings and other curious and instructive objects. We will pass in through the Joppa gate, close to the tower of David, guarded by a Turkish sentinel standing erect with gun in hand, through which crowds of people, cam- els and donkeys are constantly coming and going. We do not pass straight through the wall like going through an ordinary gate; but we enter a square tower built into the wall, turn to the left and pass into the city. It is like entering a square house at the frontdoor and passing into the back yard through a side door on the left. The new gate recently made in the north wall is an exception to this form of gate, being cut straight through the wall. We saw only (tne vehicle inside the walls, and that was Cook's car- riage that took us from the Grand New Hotfl, just inside the Joppa Gate, to the railway station. The streets are too narrow to admit wheeled vehicles with- in them. There are narrow sidewalks on David Street, extending a short distance from the Joppa Gate. But for the most part the streets of Jerusalem have no sidewalks, are very narrow, being only from six to twelve feet wide, and, with few exceptions, are very crooked. As you walk along some of the streets you suddenly come to what appears to be tlie end of the street; but you may turn a right angle and then again to the left and continue your walk Only four of the principal streets are dignitied with names These are David Street, Via Dolorosa, Christian and Damascus Streets. Most of tlie otliers are mere lanes, and so winding tliat when yon start in at om^ I IGO OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD end you do not know where you will come out at the other end. If you get out at all without difficulty you may be thankful. The streets are paved with stones of many sizes irregularly set, round tops and exceedingly slick, so it is with great difficulty for y()\i, without the foot of a goat or an Arab, to main- tain your equilibrium. The passage through them is made still more difficult and gloomy from the fact that mucli of these streets is covered with mat- ting, arciied over, or houses or backyards built across tliem,with now and then a grated window through wliich the feeble light is admitted from above. It is like going through a coal mine, with the light de- scending through the shafts to guide you. Rut the worst feature of all remains to be told. Thf'sp streets are frequently crowded with every- 1 lung that lives and moves in Palestine, from the iiighcst dignified human official down to the lowest si^'cies of mangy cur, and also the creeping things with which both man and beast are here unfortu- nately compelled to associate. Men, women, chil- dren, camels, donkeys, goats, sheep, dogs, etc., etc., are all here, pushing, gesticulating, shouting, cry- ing, groaning, braying, bleating, barking, fighting and kicking. Here come a number of camels with uplifted heads and a contemptuous curl on the lip, swinging back and forth their great loads of brush, wheat, salt, stone or other marketable articles, while the pedestrians flatten themselves against the walls to get out of the way, and the bazaar tenders, and fruit and vegetable mongers squatted by their wares, INSIDE THE WALLS KVl draw their feet under them to prevent their being chipped by the sharp hoof of a donkey or pressed by the apcfngy foot of a camel. Here, next, we must give place to a drove of don- keys with their respective burdens, and an Arab larger than the donkey as a driver, perched on the smallest one, far back near its tail, swinging his big feet, which nearly touch the ground, and giving the poor animal a dig with his heels every other step it takes. Our dragoman could not tell us why these big Arabs always select the smallest donkey on which to ride, notwithstanding its back may be raw, its ribs visible under the skin, and its hind legs trembling under the great weight placed upon it. Our own view is that these fellows are too lazy to climb on to a larger one, and then, if they go to sleep and fall off, there is not much danger of spoiling their nap or bruising their flesh. These donkeys pos- sess at least one trait of human character, for they, too, have learned to crowd. If a little donkey comes to a crowd of people in the street, he looks for a hole into which he can thrust his nose, and then giving that member of his body a few side pushes, he soon makes an opening large enough through which to pass his whole body. I know a lady who got into trouble more than once by supposing that she could compete successfully in the pushing business with a small Jerusalem donkey. On one occasion, as I took the lead to make an opening for the "weaker vessel," I missed her for a moment, and then returned a few steps in time to see her emerging from an Arab ma- 102 OUU TOUR AROUND THE WORLD troll's big basket of green beans. The donkey made no apologies. But the climax is reached when the different kinds and degrees of odors in these city tunnels mingle in onft inharmonious whole, which then comes in con- tact with the olfactory nerves. The bazaars which open out in the walls on both sides of the streets are insignificant affairs. They are so small that the owner frequently sits in the centre of his shop, and, without rising, can put his hand on almost any article he has for sale. Some- times he stretches himself on his rug and goes fast asleep, and if you wish to make a purchase you must first wake him up and give him time to scratch his eyes open with his fingers. More than once we woke up these fallows to make a purchase. These little shops usually display a mixture of Oriental and European articles for sale. Sometimes a shop made a specialty of a single line (»f goods. One bazaar supplied incense, which is in great demand in the Holy City, and from which we obtained samples. Another one had sandals, old shoes, and goat-skin water-bottles; and still another sold pure olive soap, etc. The bakers, silversmiths and money-changers are also found at intervals along the streets. In the new bazaar on David Street.near the Joppa gate, are some more pretentious shops on the European plan, in which are sold almost every imaginable thing that can be manufactured out of the fine- grained olive wood of the country. Work-boxes, napkin-rings, egg-cups, i)aper-knives, candlesticks, f INSIDE THE WALLS 168 spectacle-cases, pocket-books, and other things too numerous to mention, are all here for snle. New Testaments, and beautiful albums containing pressed wild flowers from various parts of Palestine, artis- tically arranged, are bound in this wo k1. We saw near these shops a number of respectable grocery stores; and on this same street is the wheat market, in which we stood more than once, watching the l)uyers and sellers literally filling the Scripture re- quirements in giving a good measure pressed down, and shaken together, and running over The present population of Jerusalem is estimated at 40,000; and it is divided into four quarters, namely. Christian, Armenian, Mohammedan, and Jewish. Even the dogs seem to have their quarters, and woe be to that dog which ventures into the quar- ters of his neighbors. The people's quarters are not quite so exclusive. Reader, if you have accompanied us in our walk through the Jerusalem streets, let us take a long breath of fresh air before we turn aside to see other eights. ^ LETTER XXVIII. A VISIT TO THE TRADITIONAL CALVARY. While I here place all I have to say of Calvary under the head of "A Visit to the Traditional Cal- vary," yet, strictly speaking, I should say visits, for we visited both the traditional, and what we be- lieve to be the real Calvary, several times and stud- ied them carefully at our leisure during our two weeks' stay in Jerusalem. To us there is no more sacred spot on earth than Calvary. But where is Calvary? Tradition tells us that tiie crucifixion of Jesus on Calvary and his burial in Joseph's new tomb, both took place on the 8pot now covered by what is called the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which stands almost in the heart of !^ the city, two hundred yards from the nearest wall, which is on the north. This tradition carries us back to the commencement cf the third century, and it gives us a very interesting account of how the site was fixed on as the true place of the crucifixion and burial of our Saviour. According to one version of the legend, Helena, the mother of Constantine, in the fourth century, had a divine vision, in which the true spot of the crucifixion was pointed out to her. Prompted and 164 • a^ A VIHfT to THK TRAOrTfOXAL CALVARY !<)& <{ire(3t«^(l l>.y tliiH vi.sioii,th»? Emprtiss made a journey to the Holy City, and set men to digging for the cross, wliile she sut by from day to day watching with intense interest tlie i)roceediug8. Eventually three crosses were found, with nails, superscription, crown of thorns, and other relics. But there was a difficulty in ascertaining which one of the three crosses was the true one. But this difficulty was also soon solved. A noble lady in Jerusalem lay very ill, and to her bedside the crosses were ordered to be carried one at a time. When the first and second were brought she gave a loud scream, and was about to go into convulsions; but when she touched the third one she was instantly and miraculously cured. Others say one of the crosses spoke to the Empress, by which she knew it was the true cross. This cross has been split up, and parts of it are on exhibition at different places. Reader, what do you think of the testimony? It is, however, an historical fact that as early as the commencement of the fourth century, a sump- tuously decorated church was erected, consisting of a building over the supposed Holy Sepulchre, and of the basilica dedicated to the sign of the cross; and from that day to the present a building in some form has stood over this sacred spot. The present Church of the Holy Sepulchre consists of a cluster of churches, chapels, tombs, caverns, etc., thrown together in a confused mass under one roof, the whole being sur- mounted by two domes, the larger one towering above the surrounding buildings and becoming a conspicu- I 1 166 OUK TOUR AROUND THE WORLD 0U8 object in viewing the city from the adjoining hills. These churches and chapels with their furnish- ings, sacred stations in them, etc., belong to the Greeks, Latins, Armenians and others. In front of the main entrance is a court, a little lower than the street, in which may be seen, sitting on their mats, a number of venders of rosaries, relics and otlier articles, with a sprinkling of beggars about the corners. But our hearts are now becoming too hard for beggars to profit much by their piteous pleadings for bakhshish, and so with ears which are dull of hearing we press on towards the entrance to the great building. On entering the door we notice to our left a num- ber of Turkish soldiers, placed here to keep the peace between the rival sects. This is a sad comment upon the inlluence of the cross and of the tomb of the gentle Saviour of mankind, on the hearts of these superstitious people. The next object that arrests our attention, almost in front of the door and near the floor, is the Stone of Unction, on which the body j of Jesus is said to have been laid for anointing when « h taken down from the cross. This marble slab is about I eight and one-half feet long and four feet wide, and over it the Armenians, Latins, Greeks and Oopts burn their lamps and candles. We saw pilgrims ' kissing the stone, and some of them were measuring j their winding sheets by it with the view of making i them the same length as the stone. How this sheet i is to benefit them in death and the resurrection, we j did not learn. About thirteen yards to the left is <.h A VISIT TO THE TRAOITIONAI, TALVAUV 1<)T a small enclosure miirkiiif? tlinspot wliere Mary stood watching Joseph and Xicodemus anoint the body of Jesus for luirial. A few more st(;ps bring us into the rotunda, and here, under the centre of the great dome, is situated the Holy Sepulchre itself, which lies within a small hexagon chapel, about twenty-six feet long and eighteen broad. The sepulchre has two chambers, the antechamber, which we now enter, being the Angels' Chapel, in the centre of which is the stone which the angels on the morning of the resurrection rolled away from the door of the tomb. In this chapel are burning fifteen copper lamps. We next stoop considerably and pass through a low door- way into the sepulchre proper, which is only about six feet square, surmounted by a sort of dome serv- ing as a chimney, through which the smoke escapes from the lamps. On the right of the entrance is a slab about five and one-half feet long and three feet above the floor. This is the tomb. Over this are forty-three golden lamps, which are kept constantly burning. Four of these lamps belong to the Copts, and the other thirty-nine are divided equally among the Greeks, Latins and Armenians. A Greek priest was replenishing some of the lamps during one of our visits. The marble slab, and also the stone which the angels rolled away, are worn by the lips of the pilgrims. We saw numbers of people bowing before these stones and kissing them. Some of them even prostrated themselves on the floor, kissing it at short intervals as they dragged themselves along. Such devotion to Christ, turned into the right channel, 1G» OUK TOUR AROUND THE WORLII would be a great power iii the conversion of the world. Just back of the sepulchre is the chapel of the Copts, a very meagre uflair; and near this is a grotto with tombs, into which we descend with lighted candles. Here are said to be the tombs of Nicode- mus and Joseph of Arimatha^a. There can be no doubt that these are really ancient Jewish tombs. Near the sepulchre, on the north, we enter an open court, and in the centre of this is a spot in the floor marked by marble slabs inlaid and radiating from a centre stone like a star. This is the place where Jesus stood when he appeared to Mary Magdalene. The sprt where Mary stood is also marked near by. The Latin Church, the Greek Church, the Chapel of Division of the V^estments, the Chapel of the Crown of Thorns, and a number of other chapels, are all clustered about here on the same floor. The Greek Church is the largest and most richly decorated of them all. In the centre of its marble pavement is a short column, which stands in the exact centre of the earth I It is well, before completing our journey around the earth, that we pause a moment at its very centre. From the centre of the earth we now descend twenty-nine steps into the Chapel of Helena, and then down thirteen more steps into the Chapel of the Finding of the Cross. Here is where the three crosses were found, and a niche in the wall over- looking this cave is the place where the Empress sat watching the workmen while searching for these treasures. \., 1 A VISIT TO THE TRADITIONAL CALVARY U)H \; Returning to tlie main floor and nxnmiiiiiis llic coluimi to wliicli Jt!8iis was hound wlion Hoour<^(Ml, we ascend eigliteen steps on to a second Moor, wliicli is only fourteen and a half feet above the Moor on which the sepulchre stands. Here is Calvary. In the end of this chapel is an altar under which is u hole through a marble slab faced Nsith silver, in which the cross of Christ stood. Five feet to each side of this hole are two more holes, in which the crosses of the two thieves stood, that of the penitent thief being on the right. Four and one-half feet to the right of Christ's cross is the rent in the rock made by the earthquake at the time of the crucifixion. The rent is covered by a brass slide, and is said to reach to the centre of the earth (not the centre we visited), but which, in fact, is only six inches deep. The slide may be pushed to one side, and if you are a doubting Thomas you are permitted to thrust in your hand and believe. A little farther to the right is a beautiful altar behind which is a picture of the Virgin, set in diamonds. All the adornments about these altars are of the richest and most profuse description. Also, on this floor, there are some small chapels which I will not take time and space to describe. The reader must not forget, however, that Adam and P:ve and Melchizedek were all buried here under these crosses, and the chapel of Adam and the tomb of Melchizedek mark the sacred spots. It is said when Christ was crucified his blood flowed through the cleft in the rock on to the head of Adam, and im- 170 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD mediately the "first man" was restored to life. Whether or not he is still living we were not in- formed. There is one other thing of which T wish to speak before leaving this curious Church, and that is the Easter Festival. During this festival, Jerusalem and the Church of the Sepulchre are crowded with pil- grims of every nationality, and both in the Church and on the streets are enacted many disorderly and disgraceful scenes. In former times the Latins represented Christ en- tering Jerusalem on an ass from the village of Beth- phage, and even now they send to Gaza for palm branches, which they consecrate on Palm Sunday, and distribute among the people. But the greatest farce of all is the so-called Holy Fire, which they claim comes down from heaven. On one side of the sepulchre, there is a hole through the wall a few inches in circumference. On Easter eve when the Church is crowded with the pilgrims, and the galler- ies filled with strangers, most of whom have spent the previous night in the Church, the Greek patri- arch enters the Chapel of the Sepulchre, while the priests pray without, and the people are in the ut- most suspense. At length the patriarch who is on the inside of the Sepulchre alone, passes the fire out through the hole, and then follows an indescribable tumult. Every one endeavors to have his wax taper lighted first by the holy fire which has just descended from heaven in answer to prayer. In a few sec- onds, amidst the uproar, which is always accompanied A VISIT TO THE TRADITIONAL CALV^ARY 171 with fighting, the whole building is illuminated with burning tapers. Formerly the Latins joined in this monstrous piece of deception in the Christian name, but at present it is managed by the Greeks alone. In 1834 a terrible catastrophe occurred in connec- tion with this festival. There were more than 6,000 people in the Church, when suddenly a riot broke out. The Turkish guards who are aways present on these occasions, supposing they were being attacked, made a desperate resistance, and in the scuffle three bundred pilgrims were either killed by the soldiers, trampled to death, or suffocated. A German gentle- man who has resided in Jerusalem several years, told me that he had talked with the Greek priests about this wicked and dangerous imposition, which they frankly acknowledged. When asked why they per- petuated it, their reply was that the superstitious people demanded it, it brought the pilgrims to the holy shrine, and benefited the city and the Church financially. Verily the whip of the ^Master is still needed with which to drive out these heartless hypo- crites. Almost every foot of this great building is occupied with "sacred"' spots which are visited at regular intervals by companies of richly-robed,saiic- timonious priests, and kissed by millions of ignorant people. Let us turn aside for something more sub- stantial and refreshing. a LETTER XXIX. A VISIT TO THE TRUE CALVARY. I HAVE called the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre the traditional Calvary because the evi- dence that our Saviour was crucified and buried there is mainly traditional. The scholarship which has blindly accepted this tradition for ages past is com- pelled by modern research to give place to a more scientific and scriptural view of the question. That Jesus was crucified outside the city walls, is a fact definitely settled by the Scriptures, and it seems equally certain that the burial also took place out- side the city, for John says, "The sepulchre was nigh at hai?d," John xix. 42. Now, in locating the place of the crucifixion of Christ, there are at least six facts which must be taken into consideration : 1. It took place in a garden. In John xix. 41 we read: "Now, in the place where he was crucified, there was a garden, and in the garden a new sepul- chre, wherein was never man yet laid." There is no | evidence that such a garden ever existed where the | Church of the Holy Sepulchre now stands. 2. It must be a place called "a skull " "And they bring him unto the place Golgotha which is, being interpreted, the place of a skull." Mark xv. 22. 172 A VISIT TO THE TRUE CALVARY 178 3. It must have been near some public thorough- fare. "And they that passed by reviled him, wag- ging their heads. " Matt, xxvii. 39. 4 It was near the city. "For the place where Jesus was crucified was nigh to the city." John xix. 20. 5. In Matt, xxviii. 11, it says: "Now when they were going, behold, some of the watch came into the city," showing that the sepulchre was outside of the . walls. 0. And finally, in Heb. xiii. 11, 12, Paul says: "For the bodies of those beasts whose blood is brought into the sanctuary by the high priest for sin, are burned without the camp. Wherefore Jesus also, that he might sanctify the people with his own blood, suffered without the gate.'''' Now it is easy to be seen that these descriptions are not filled by the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is situated almost in the heart of the city, two hundred yards from the wall at the nearest point. Nor is there any evidence, as some have contended, that the wall of the city at the time of Christ stood so as to place the site of this Church on the outside of the city. Where, then, is the gen- uine Calvary? At the north of the town, a little distance from the Damascus Gate, there is a hill, in shape resem- bling a skull, and in the southern face of which is situated the Grotto of Jeremiah, which, in the opin- ion of many modern sciiolars, meets every require- ment of the Scriptures as the place of the crucifixion. n i' ttl 1 174 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD Sir J. W. Dawson, in his recent able work entitled "Modern Science in Bible Lands," after stating sev- eral objections to the traditional site, says: "All these considerations militate aga-nst the claim of the present Church to be on the site either of the crucifixion, or of the tomb of Jesus, while the points stated in the gospels, though evidently not intended to fix the site as a holy place, are sufficient to indi- cate that the knoll outside the Damascus Gate, now used as a little Moslem cemetery, and at one time the public place of execution, is the real Golgotha, or *place of a skull,' to which it also has a claim on account of its singular form, like that of a low- browed calvarium with two sockets formed by old tomb^ excavated in its front. This strikes ever.y one when it is seen in certain lights. I have advocated the claims of this site in my little book,'Eygpt and Syria, ' for reasons which will be found in that work ; but I shall here quote with some slight changes from a recent admirable summary of the facts in a paper by my friend, Dr. Selah Merrill, and shall add some notes on the geology of this site of so great religious and historical interest." The following are among the lines quoted from Dr. Merrill: "For some years past there has been a growing conviction that the hill in which Jeremiah's Grotto is shown, situated a little to the northeast of the Damascus Gate, satisfied the conditions as to the site of Calvary better than any other spot in or around Jerusalem. Indeed, a large number of competent scholars have already accepted this hill as Golgotha. Hundreds of Chris- '! A VISIT TO THE TRUE CALVARY 175 tian tourists visit the place every year, and few of them go away unconvinced that both the arguments and the strong probability are in favor of this being regarded as the true site of the crucifixion." Major C. R. Conder, who is very high authority on Pales- tine, also says: "The probable site of Calvary was first pointed out by the present author in 1879, in consequence of the survival of a Jewish tradition as to the 'place of stoning' (Mishna. Sanhed. 6:1) or of public execution. It is a remarkable knoll, outside the third wall, on the north of the city, and certainly never included within the limits of Jerusalem. It is now commonly known as El Heidheiniyeh, or by Christians called 'Jeremiah's Grotto'— a fit spot for a public spectacle, with a natural amphitheatre of slopes around it, and in full view of the temple and the second wall. . . This site has become gen- erally accepted as the true site of Golgotha, that is. Calvary." We were particularly impressed with the appear- ance of this hill and its surroundings as a suitable place for public executions, and especially the cruci- fixion of Jesus. There is no mistaking the skull shape of the hill, even what corresponds to the sock- ets of the eyes being clearly seen in the southern face of the knoll Indeed, every deuxil about this hill so strikingly corresponds with the gospel narra- tives respecting the place of the crucifixion that you seem to see the whole tragic scene transpiring be- fore you. Though the hill is only about fifty feet above the land immediately about it, it is a conspic- i ■ '1 17<) OVH TOITR AHOUNI) THE WORLD iiuiis ol)j«ot; for, tis JJuwson fitly concludeB: "It is near to the city, between the ancient roads leading from the Damascus Gate and Herod's Gate, not dis tant from ti)e site of the Pretorium and having gar- dens and tombs close to it. It is also so situated as to command a view of the whole city and the temple, and of the amphitheatre of surrounding hills, and there is no other place which fulfills all these condi- tions. " The fact that the summit and the northern slope of the hill are covered with Mohammedan graves hab ^jreserved to the Christian world, I am thankful to know, this spot in its natural condition. As we gathered a few late flowers from the place about where the cross of Christ may have stood, a woman, heavily veiled, came and sat a long time by one of the tombs not far away. Having settled the place of the crucifixion within the limits of probability, let us look for the sepul- clire which, according to John, "was nigh at hand." We have not far to go. About sixty yards to the west of the spot of the crucifixion, in a low cliff, there is an ancient Jewish tomb which seems to fill the gos- pel descriptions of the tomb of Joseph. It is in a garden, and in a place where a garden has appar- I ently existed from the first century to the present | day. It is "hewn in the rock." It would require a "great stone" rolled to the door to close it. As poor Jews could not own such valuable tombs, it must have belonged to a rich man. And, finally, in the estimation of competent scholars who have carefully examined it, its interior is "precisely the style of ^' A VISIT TO THE TRUE CALVARY tomb into which we may suppose the apostles stooped down and looked on the morning of the resurrection. " After visiting this hill and tomb several times, we came away thoroughly satisfied that on this skull- hill Jesus was crucified, and that he was buried in Joseph's new tomb near at hand, from which he arose on the third day according to the Scriptures On Sunday before leaving the Holy City we went out on to this hill to see the sun set and to meditate. The view was a charming one. At our feet on the south lay the city, quieting into peaceful slumber, beyond which the hills toward Bethlehem were vis- ible. To our left was the Mount of Olives, over which the full moon was rising in all its glory. To our right was the New Jerusalem, from behind which the setting sun was throwing its soft rays over the Mount of Olives; and behind us was Mount Scopus with some handsome European residences on its summit. Amidst these beautiful surroundings wo sat down, read the account of the crucifixion given in the gospels, and tried to enter into a realization of the sacred scenes which transpired on this spot. • :« LETTER XXX. DOWN TO JERICHO. Yes, it is down in earnest. When the Bible says down it means down, and wlien it says up it means up. The Bible in speaking of the relative levels of the country, as in all other resi)ects, has never been known to make a mistake, This shows that the writers were on the spot, that they were well ac- (juaiuted with the country al)ont which they wrote, and that they were guided by inspiration. In their faithfulness to all details, they have done what the learned, experienced and painstaking authors of our best guide-books have never been able to do. We read in the good Book that ''a certain man went down from Jerusalem to .Jericho, and fell among thieves." We were more fortunate than this man; ^ we went down to Jericho, and did )iot fall among thieves. Tlio reason was obvious. We made friends of the thieves by engaging as our guard the chief thief of the tribe, Before beginning the journey let us go upon the Mount of Olives and have a look toward Jericho, whicii is distant from JeruHalcni about nineteen miloa. From tlii^ point as you look tnward the cast, tin; northern end of the Dead Sea, tiiu wide plain of the 178 DOWN TO JERICHO 179 Jordau, the line of green trees bordering the Jordan as it winds its way through the plain till lost in the sea, and the mountains of Moab beyond, crowned with Pisgah's height, are all in plain view. The pea and plain are near 4/)(K) feet helow you, making the descent from Jerusalem very rnpid;and through the exceed in ) Isrnclitcs '^pasHtnl o\t r" (»,- fordan, !, ''ri)t;ht agpinst -l( .'^ M.'r^r'itu'f' «i(*i V • 'ni)' .: Mv VhiJe in • .r. ' ^m-^:^' ,^r .«, r. [)UrpOSe, al jL " , ' ipe^nul- ii>il tc lilt , . not too stronjj l';!r li;ii'! v..w>; .- *■ ■ ;•' ease. I -' h;ivy rr^Tjiieuiiy i/ajii t/ 'ti ftH.M.,r' •■( ..-■: farinorf -■* ^•' '! !ri"(: ivi|.iisiii.- ;i,ive taken -•- -' ^>- ' .—V'. ■' '■' )•• '■•■ '' '»•■-'* !>>' '•■. De Witt ^- ' ,K " ■ ■ " ca in tlie i J tA %< ■ ' ,. jifhculty ■J) ;>*v- -^ Hands of *• pti^ri:*?. - • - many of \ liHiu i'l <«-i.. :v - Ininie- " diately .'ir i'"f :*• ■ " - - ialenillu' '.f»;\i i riivtvi*'., »r, 7 'encani])- ) ■■■ _ ihv ' i ;'^ < vvitli ])ine >.''< •'?<- • '► -s '■. ^ •• spectacle. - > ; .^; .K V ■' i !* ;• ling, at a . ' ,1,1 J.<' ■• ik- ; ^'V^' ' , iiitr p|u(te ..■•:• |n ;.'-<^ !■. Oi.' liM .\ \'.' >•'; • i'h r''.';i-''] i ■ • prnjui' (y, plunj^i' % );ji"a }•!" '.M. isfiiuu -i >>:'t!i. '\\>'- -:•• iM- 'la-' l)een vari- f .i'. ;jv ^\ii'* -ifiirni thai 1 ^ if i \.. . .^J^JTJr'. S. i'!: A VISIT TO THE JOUDAN 191 here where the Israelites ''passed over" the Jordan, "right against Jericho." It was here that Elijah and Elisha smote the waters with the former's mantle and went "over on dry ground." And still more interesting to know, it is doubtless the place where John the Baptist baptized the multitudes, and whf^re Jesus himself was baptized. There is plenty of room for the people to congregate, and during the dry sen- son it is an admirable place for baptizing. While in some parts the water is too deep for this purpose, at other points the bottom is pel)bly, the slope grad- ual to the proper depth, and the current not too strong for baptizing with perfect safety and ease. I have frequently baptized scores of people in far inorc difficult places. More than once baptisms have taken place at, or near, this point In 1881) Or T. I)e Witt Talmage immersed a young man from America in tim Jordan at this ford, and he experienced no difficulty in performing the act. Every year thousands of pilgrims bathe in the river at this place, many of tiiem being immersed by the Greek priests. Imme- diately after the Easter ceremonies at Jerusalem the great caravan starts for this ford, and their encam]»- ment on the bank of the river, lighted with i)ine torches, presents a curious and interesting s])ectaclp. An eye-witness says: "Early in the morning, at a given signal, the i)ilgrims leave their resting pia(!e and proceed to the river, when old and younir, v'm'M and poor, without much regard to ])roprioty, plunge into a promis(uiouH batli. TIk! scimh^ lias been vari- ously described by many trav»jllurs, wlio affirm thai . i 102 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD the Greeks attach deep religious sigDificance to the ceremony, which is to them the source of many bless- ings." Another writer says: ''The priests wade into the water breast-deep and dip into the stream the men, women and children as they approach in their white garments. Some of the pilgrims fill jars from the river to be used for baptisms at home." The American Consul at Jerusalem is a Presbyterian preacher, and his wife told us with delight how she had her first-born infant sprinkled a short time be- fore our visit with the sacred water brought from the Jordan. Of course we followed the example of the l)ilgrims, taking a bath. The only lady pilgrim of our party donned a white dress, waded in and dipped herself seven times, in imitation of Naaman's dip- ping, probably at this place. As the writer was nbout to enter the water the dragoman, sheikh and the muleteer all joined in persuading him to hold on to a long rope which they had provided. To allay their fears he did so, but soon they said: ''We don't need to look after him, he can swim." We also, like the other pilgrims, took a bottle of water to bring home with us, but not for baptismal purposes. The Jordan is in some respects a peculiar river, and coupled with its sacred associations, it becomes an intensely interesting one. Its extreme length is 187 miles. It is 05 miles in a straight line from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea, and yet so crooked is the river that in going that distance it actually runs 200 miles. It runs to almost every point of the compass, and where we saw it, its flow is so & 1 A VISIT TO THE JORDAN 193 smooth that we could scarcely hear a ripple as we stood on its bank. The river varies in width during the year from thirty to sixty yards, and during the "i dry season it is from three to twelve feet dee]). " The water was so muddy that the bottom could not I be seen any where. It is no wonder Naaman preferrb! to dip himself in the clear waters of his own Abana and Pharpar. We spread our lunch in the shade of the trees and ate it with much satisfaction. We then spent some time pushing our way through the luilrushes, re- minding us of the cane-brakes of Louisiana, and cutting sticks from the thick forest to bring home with us. I am not surprised tJiat the lion in olden times lurked in these jungles. It is a fit place for wild animals, and some of the more harmless kinds are still found there. We returned to Jericho at 8 p. m., and after a short rest we rode out to see Elislia's Fountain, a short distance northwest from the present Jericho. This is undoubtedly the spring which the prophet Elisha healed, an account of which we have in II. Kings ii. 19-22. It is a beautiful spring, ])urstini^ forth copiously from the earth and forming a i)ond surrounded by a stone wall. We took along, refresh- ing draught from it and decided that it was the best water we had tasted thus far on our journey. Ini- mediatelv below the fountain there was a respectable Arab grist-mill in full operation. Its Idack owner showed us through it with much satisfaction. On the banks of the stream, between the mill and the n 194 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD village of Jericho, the Russians have located a con- vent and a school, and the vegetation siuTounding them is luxuriant This perennial fountain in proper hands would be made to turn this whole plain into a beautiful garden. Near PZlisha's Fountain can be seen the remains of ancient Jericho. Just back of the spring rises up conspicuously Quarantana, the mountain on which tradition has located the temptation of Jesus, and from the top of which mav be had a fine view. The name, which means forty, was given to the mountain by the Cru- saders in the twelfth century with reference to our Lord's forty days' fast. Near the summit the moun- tain is honeycombed with hermitages; but the her- mits have forsaken these gloomy abodes. After all, tradition is probably wrong in the selection of this mountain as the mountain on which Jesus was tempted, for it does not seem to meet all the require- ments of the Scriptures. As we returned to our hotel we gathered some curi- ous fruit called the fipple of Sodom, and passed a Bedouin Arab encampment with its cniuers hair tents, complement of barking dc^gs, etc. The frogs in a pool near by, the dogs and the Arabs made the night lively for us. We arose early next morning and returned to Jeru- salem. We arrived at Bethany at 11 a. m., and in- stead of going right into Jerusalem we preferred to spread our lunch under olive trees on that part of the Mount of Olives near Bethany from which we believe our Saviour ascended into heaven. Here we released A VISIT TO THE JORDAN 105 I our sheikh escort, his term of service having expired. We had seen him a short time before in close consul- tation with our dragoman, and we thon^ht we knew what it meant. Sure enough, he h.wl insisted that the dragoman should inform me tliat the faithful sheikh expected hakhshuh. I told the sheikh that he was a rich man and I was a poor preacher, tluit I had already paid all expenses of the trip to the Jor- dan through Thomas Cook & Son, in(;luding his full salary, and that he ought to be satisfied with his pay according to the agreement. He thought over the matter, and then sat down close beside me with a pleasing countenance and said he would be satisfied with whatever I wished to give him. I told him if he would stick to that statement I would make him a gift. To this he agreed. I then took (mt my purse and with great dignity presented liim with one franc! The mingled feelings of astonishment, amusement and disgust depicted in the man's face afforded a rare study to all of us. He went behind an olive tree and pouted like a ten-year oM boy w ho had been denied a fishing excursion on which he had set his heart. But I stood firm, and he finally conclueg of us. Th^>y held out tlieir luinds and said i)itirully, "' /i^J.- A ^•^ /• 214 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD On our first Sunday in the city we attended the Episcopal Church, at 10 a m. The service was con- ducted in English, and the sermon was poor. About (50 people were present, mostly English residents. In theory there are what we may call three Sundays in Jerusalem. The Mohammedans observe Friday, the Jews Saturday, and the Christians Sunday. But practically all days are much alike, except the Jew- ish Sabbath, which is most strictly observed of all other days In the Jewish quarter all the shops are closed on the Sabbath, and in other quarters the Jew does not hesitate to close his shop, though his Chris- tian neighbors on both sides of him are open. Evi- dently the Christianity in Jerusalem is not the type to convert the Jews very soon. We visited and carefully examined the principal pools in and about the city, including the Upper and Lower Pools of Gihon, the Pool of Hezekiah, the Pool of Siloam, the Virgin's Pool and the Pool of Bethesda. On the opposite side of the Via Dolorosa from the last named pool, and at the northwestern corner of the Church of St. Anna, has been recently .| discovered what is considered by many to be the true Bethesda of the New Testament. It is much smaller than the traditional Bethesda, is reached by a flight of steps, is surrounded by old porches, and the water ^ which constantly stands in it is thought to contain sanitary properties. We were also kindly shown through the excavations which Dr. Bliss was mak- ing on Mt. Zion, a short distance outside the present wall. Dr. Bliss has made here some valuable dis- coveries, the principal one of which he believes to be ^ r WALKS ABOUT .lERtTSALEM 215 part of the wall of the ancient city. On the oppo- site side of the Valley of Hinnoni we examined the Field of Blood, and explored the newly discovered tombs, which were partly filled with grinning human skeletons. The tombs are enclosed with a stone wall and kept by a Greek priest The priest gave me a descri|)tion of the discovery, etc., printed in Greek. Near this spot we saw u strong limb of an olive tree projecting over the clilV, on which any modern Judas might easily hang himself, and in case the rope should break, giving him a clear fall of thirty feet on to the sharp rocks, proljably "bursting him asunder in the midst." The Valley of Hinnom was the hot- test place through which we passed in all of our trav- els, and it was a fit reminder of the Jiible hell with which it has been long associated. On Wednesday, July 11, by special invitation, we took tea with the American Consul, Rev. K. S. Wal- lace, and wife. Here we met the wife of the English Consul and other prominent ladies. On the follow* ing Sunday afternoon the Consul arranged to have my Presbyterian friend and myself conduct service in the large olhce of the consulate, the first of the kind that had been attempt(Ml. Encouraged by the large attendance of Euro])eans, the Consul announced his purpt)S( '() continue the meetings. Our walks about Jerusalem i)roved exceedingly in- teresting,and were far too numerous to admit of even a brief description of all of them here. They will always remain fresh in our memories, and contin- ually furnish incentives to Bible study and the proc- lamation of the Gospel of Christ. LETTER XXXVI. FROM JERUSALEM TO NAPLES. On Monday morning, July 10, we took our final departure from Jerusalem. The agent of Thomas Cook & Son drove us to the railway station and se- cured for us the exclusive useof a first-class compart- ment. At 7:45 our train left for Joppa, and as we moved away through the Plain of Rephaim,the Tower of David, the Mount of Olives and the Russian Tower, on the summit of Olivet, were the last objects about the city to be seen. Our train gradually de- scended the wadies which wind about, serpentine fashion, passing beautiful vegetable gardens, olive groves, terraced hills and rugged mountains till we reached the Plain of Sharon. We also passed in the Valley of Roses, about five miles from Jerusalem, Philip's Fountain, where the Latins claim the eunuch was baptized. There is a beautiful pool of water a short distance below the spring, with steps leading down into it, which would certainly prove an ad- mirable place for baptizing. We saw other places along the wadies which, during the greater part of the year, would serve the same purpose. It will not be according to fact to contend that there was not plenty of water in the country through which the 216 y FROM JERUSALEM TO NAPLES -17 eunuch pasBed in which he could l)ave })een imnicrsef the camel. All the animals were unnnjzzled. We thought of the passages of Scripture which say: ''Thou shalt not muzzle the ox thattreadeth out the corn;" "Be ye not unequally yoked together with un- believers." From the Jaffa station we were driven to the Jeru- salem Hotel, which we made our headquarters lor 1 nearly four days. Here we had the pleasure of meet- ) ing Dr. Bliss, President of the Presbyterian College at Beyrout. He was accompanied by his wife and daughter, and also met here by his son from Jerusa- lem. They were taking a holiday trip. On Thursday, July 19, we sailed from Jaffa on the Egyptian .S'. S. Khc<1 trial. Cook's boatmen rowed us out to our ship in their splendid "No. 1" I'oat. The hills and shores of Palestine soon disai)peared from view. At sunset the Mohammedan passen- gers did not hesitate to say their prayers on deck. 2\S OUlt TOVH AROUND THE WORLD () N(!xt morning at 7 o'clock we anchored in the har- bor at Port Said. We had to wait here four days lor our boat, the AnMral, from Australia, to take us on to Naples. We stopped during this time at the CJrand Continental Hotel, close to the water and commanding a tine view of the harbor and canal. As we sat for hours after dark on the balcony of our hotel, it was an interesting and beautiful night t wtilch the great ships, with their powerful search- lights, slowly working their way into and out of this wonderful canal. At first those approaching us looked like lantern lights moving on the desert; but after a few hours the whole city was illuminated by their head-lights. If all the old Pharaohs in the museums and tombs were to suddenly rise up out of their coffins and behold these modern wonders ni their land, they would be as much struck by them as we are at the pyramids which some of them have built. Another thing we noted here was the fact that not a single American flag did we see floating over any of the many ships passing through this canal. Even the man acting as American Consul in Port Said is an Englishman. It is a burning shame that our partisan politicians can not cease fighting one another long enough to give our country a little more honor and influence abroad. One day we went out on a beautiful beach to have a bath in the Mediter- ranean Sea. A Mohammedan, having finished his bath, spread down his mat, turned his face toward Mecca and laboriously went through with his long prayer, while we looked on and took notes. FROM .lERlTWALEM TO NAPLES 210 We were four days sailing over the Mediterraneftii Sea. We did not see Jonah's whale. But tlu^re an^ whales of the largest kinds found in thiw sea. Tiio Greek word in the New Testament translated whale, as every scholar knows, is not limited to the \vhal(% but means any great fish or sea-monster; and it is a well known fact that there is a species ofsliark in- habiting the Mediterranean Sea quite capable of swallowing any ordinary man, ignorant intidel as- sertions to the contrary, notwithstanding. I saw sharks caught in Australia more than thirty Uh^ long, which could swallow a man with the greatest of ease. Hence, I believe that a great fish swallowed Jonah. I believe it mainly because Jesus has said so, and I must leave the "critics" to dispute with the Lord. The "critics" have no right, howev(3r, to make a whale out of Jonah and a minnow of the fish. It is just as easy to suppose that Jonah was a pygmy an z < 1/3 < S5 V* «. - ■* 001 At ■' ■ il ol v7i^^-r wiiM ib*:' s«iu r'-l- i - ■i"' will not ooiii|mre f:i^ ■- ■ Aust.aiia. Let n^ i- ^■'- " - flfering by do- amoufi right, I little \V. NVrl*.. 1,11 (liS- y, and could sheet ^1 ii)\ ' i ^w.-^t. •I 'A\ I'll -^ t 4 leauty jrbor, V-, ™ i>. i^ "V, •f «#f 1, 'i,M 1^ 'h^-lM X> ^ '. ♦>> A'*' rf"*- .;..,' ^^^Ml]a^ . -^iWjL di 1^' v. < FROM JERUSALEM TO NAPLES 221 much property on the iHlaiul and causing suftering among the people which had to be alleviated by do- nations from the principal Italian cities. At 4 P. M. on Friday we steamed into the famous Bay of Naples, with its vine-clad hills on our right, the city before us and grand Mount Ve8uvius,a little to the right, in the background. We were all dis- appointed with the bay, and agreed that its beauty has been much exaggerated. It lacks diversity, am is so shallow near the landing that our ship couhl not approach the little pier. It is simply a big sheet of water with the sea rolling right into it. Its beauty will not compare favorably with the Sydney Harbor, Australia. Let us now ''see Naples, and die." LETTER XXXVII. SEEING NAPLES. I Well, we have seen Naples and we did not die. Perhaps the reason was our stay there was short. We are thankful we lived long enough to get away from there. Still, we have seen worse places; in fact, on the whole, we were rather pleased with Na- p](is. Beginning with the business part and the prin- cipal streets on the level at the head of the bay, the city is built high up on the hills, and crowned by the castle of St. Elmo. Its tall buildings are massed together, making the streets narrow and winding. It possesses some fine public buildings and beautiful parks and gardens. Like the Egyptians, the people seem to live outdoors; especially of evenings, when J the streets literally swarm with them. The few who .; are not then on the streets are sitting at the windows > and on the small balconies, from three to eight stories ) high, looking down on the swaying mass of human- ^ ity. But more orderly crowds we have never seen. | Nearly all the men and boys wore white straw hats | of the same pattern, and most of the women went | with their heads uncovered. The bevies of dark- | .'ved, bar.'-lieaded maidens on the streets were very > pretty. (I did not say this to Mrs. Trotter.) I laid 2-^2 SEEING NAPLES '2'2\l off my pith helmet, put oii a straw hat and mingled with the crowds. Naples is a great city, having a population of about 600,000. We came ashore in a small steamer; and we were warned to put away all the tobacco we had about us, for the Italian Customs officials could smell a pinch of snuff half a mile away. If the stump of an old cigar had been found in our possession it would have become at once a smoking Vesuvius and caused us trouble. But as I do not use the weed at all we were soon passed through the Custom House, and driven to the Hotel de Russie. The tall, slick-tongued thief who accompanied the carriage driver charged us eight shillings for the short ride. I declined to pay it. He became angry, and I stood on the lu)- tel steps and smiled while he beat the wall with his fist, danced a jig and swore in Italian. At the close of the performance I said: •'! will give y«»u four shillings; take that, or I will call the police." He took the money and disappeared around the corner. Our room was at the top of four long flights of steps, and opened out on to a balcony with the bay and •' Mount Vesuvius in plain view. We were well pleased I with the accommodation. We had no reason to 'i complain of the inadequacy of the food. It is true ^ the breakfast in the European hotel, is not so elab- orate as the American hotels usually supply. Hut there is alwavs plenty of bread, butter and cotlee, a.ul sometimes eggs and jam; and what is lacking at bnnikfast is made up at the oth.r meaN. 01 courso if one is thinking moiv about eating than about 'k # :]-2\: '.n'ii joint auou.nd the world nigh 1 -seeing, lie may not be satisfied with such a breakfast A Continental tour with some Anieri- oans is (\sHentinlly an eating tour. The pleasure of 11 the journey is measured by the amount of food they j| can manage to envelop; and the fuss they continually f| make about it and the way they go al)out eating j j^ive the impression abroad that the American people ' are more interested in the development of stomachical capacity than they are in brain culture. The climate || was perfection. Wo experienced no shivering between 'I cold hotel walls; the sky was clear and the air balmy. ^^ Early next mo^'ning we took a walk through the 4 city before the ] 'pie were fairly astir. We noted i| some strange sights. The milk wagons were not rattling through the streets delivering watered milk, ♦ c coming from all sorts of questionable places. But j before one door in the street stood two or three cows; a man was milking the maid's quart-cup full while the maid stood on the steps watching the process. Only one thing could ])revent this milk from being ' ]nire, and that would bean impure cow. JU^forean- | other door stood a herd of goats; the herder was ^ milking one, while two others had retired to the mid- || die of the street to apparently settle a di (Terence by cracking their heads together. But we have seen so many strange things that we are sometimes almost afraid to judge things according to the appearance. It may be that these two goats resorted to this method of churning the milk before delivering it. At any rate, the Ix'rder was df'livering to the house- hold pure goat milk, mostly made from the brown SBKTNG NAPLEB 005 Si paper the goats hiid pickod up from tlje streets. And so the cows and goats went thu round from house to house till the supply of milk was exhausted. Amidst all the sph-ndor in NapU^s we saw evi- dences that many of its people are very poor. There goes a rickety old fruit-cart drawn l>y an ux and a lean horse, side liy side. Yonder is another similar cart drawn by a poorly clad man Wntween the shafts and a sad looking don"key pulling in iiarness before him. Here, in the centre of a principal thorough- fare, is a thin, weak horse that has broken down under the great load placed on it, and some peoi)le are gathering about it to enjoy the tun. Out thern in that back-yard playing are a couple of boys thir- teen years old stark naked. The rich ride by m their carriages, the fountains play, the sweet music (loats on theair and the city has put on her holiday dress. Strange mixture! The most enjoyable and instructive place we vis- ited in the citv was the Naples Museum, which is a national institution. The building is an attractive and substantial one, and it contains more than 120,000 specimens We walked through forests ot tine statuary. We saw walls covered with paintings, induding many masterpieces. We examined a col- lection of nearlv two thousand beautiful fresco paint- ings, taken chietly from the walls of Pompeii and Herculaneum. We admired the numerous magmti- cent mosaics from thc> same source Of course we were most interested in the things taken Irom the partially recovered cities of Pompeu and Hercu- 220 OUK TOUR ABOUND THE WOULD I iHiunim. In addition to those nlroudy named, we extiniined the following: Various articles of food, ' Buch as bread, cake, meat, fruits and nuts. There - were fifteen loaves of bread found in a bake-oven at Pompeii. A loaf and a half were found on the coun- ter, one loaf evidently having been cut to make up } the proper weight. There were walnuts, tigs, pears, chestnuts, dates, raisins, almonds, carob bean-pods, onions, eggs, wax, honey in the comb, and bones of I fish and fowl. One case contained wheat, barley, millet, beans, lentils and pepper. There was meat | in a double saucepan, just as it had been put in to ^ cook, and there was some flour in a jar. Eight glass 4 tubes hermetically sealed contained olives preserved \ in oil. But the most remarkable thing was a glass j jar containing petrified wine. Linen was found in f a wash-tu!),silk wound in balls, nets for ladies' hair, soles of sandals, and purses containing money. One of these purses was found with one of the skeletons taken from the house of Diomede. There were also toys for tiie nurseries, scent bottles, plates, tumblers, cups, bowls, vaces, milk jugs, tear Ixittles, tables, some of which are marble folding tables, bedsteads, iron safes, locks, keys, hinges from doors, folding j chairs, fountain jets and sjmiys, doorknockers, bath I tubs and ointuxMit pots; iron tools, such as scythes, sickles, bill-hooks, knives, rakes, forks, spades, J trowels, ploughshares, saws, hammers, ])lane8, an- •• vils and whetstones; lamps and lanterns, weights and nieasures, mathematical instruments, surgical instru- ments, kitchen utensils, etc., etc. Many of these things SEEING NAPLKB 227 I hav« pnuniHratod were uh ixM'tfct in thoir conHtnu!- tion us oiiii l)o producod jit tlu* pn'Hciil tiii)«» l\v tli« most advaiicnd civilized nations I wisli to spnoialiy mention tin* stoci^s that were found in lii prison Ka(di partition (•onfinHd the anicle of a prisoner, who was thus (5om- pi'lled to sit or lif> on thotloor. They were c.apaldH of securing twenty prisoners, and four skeletons were found in tiiem, the sudden (H)verinK up «d" tlie city not p^rmittin^ of the release of the jjrisoners. It was doubtless this sort of an instrument in which Paul and Silas were confined at Philippi. We were much interested in the gold ornaments, in great variety and excpiisite designs, consisting of earrings, tingtu'-rings, necklaces, bracelets, etc We have never seen more perfect and beautiful jewelry. We examined a ^'remarkable gold neckla(;e of ribbon wire set with eight large pearls and nine emeralds. At one end of it is a gold disc with an emerald, and at the other end is a hook. This is one of the richest necklaces of anticpiity." On a skeleton in a house in Pompeii were found two solid g(dd bra(;elet8 weighing two p«mnds. On the finger of the same skel- eton was a garnet ring with a small figure, and the inscription. "Crj.s.sm." We were shown a solid gold lamp from Pompeii weigiiing three pounds. But space forbids further nieiiiion (d' these interesting objects. We left the museum tirr-d, but well repaid for our labor. LETTER XXXVIII A WALK THROUGH POMPEII. On Saturday morning we had a delightful walk through Pompeii, which to me, in some respects, is the most interesting place in the world. We took the train at Naples at half-past ten and were soon at the Pompeii Hotel, before the entrance gate. Pompeii was a seaport town situated at the base of Mount Vesuvius, about seventeen miles in a south- eastern direction from Naples. It was mostly sur- .j rounded l)V a strong wall which was nearly two miles in circumference, and it had eight gates. Its streets i were well made, with raised sidewalks, and supplied i with drinking fountains, the water being brought into the city in pii>es of lend. It was evidently a city ' of considerable wealth and influence. But it was '>^ overtaken by a sudden calamity. i At about one o'clock in the afternoon of August | 24, 1\) A. D., an immense cloud of smoke was seen j to issue from Mount Vesuvius, resembling in shape * a huge pine tree. Soon the surrounding country was ! shrouded in midnight darkness, which lasted for ^ three days, the earth shook, forked lightning played I about the summit of the mountain, the flames burst j forth accompanied by terrific thunder. Ashes, scoria ! 228 ' f A WALK THRorOH POMPEIT 229 ami M!iiall ^tniHH poured ilowii (»n Pompeii, while the tt!ri'(>r--lii<:lit)ii iiilMiliitaiiis were lUMMiig for their livns. Til" sc.'iM' was awliil, Tiie city was buried Innn Iw-iiiy to thirty ffft deep, uiid it is thought that soiu ' t Ao thousand people perished. Some of ■ the ttsh-H M '^111 to lijivf hetMi mixed with water, form- ing a pisi'-liki) sul)staiK5t' in svliieh tiieljodies of the uiitortuiirito p' )\i\>' \v«?r»' t'iu!:iHed, preserving the im- pressioiH of til 'ir liolies with ^reat aocjuracy. No lava rail down on Hhj city, as supposed by some, for this would iiUN'M consumed every combustible thing. But the city was s > compli'tely covered that tinally its verv site w;n lost lor centuries, and the rich ^(round which had Conned al)ove it was cultivated in (!orn, vines and fruit trees The younger Pliny, who witnessed it at a disMnce of twenty miles, has left on record a vivid description of this awful catastro- phe. The neii^hl>orinti city of Herculaneum was also buried at the same time with fine ash mixed with water or a stmain of mud rolling down from the mountain top In 174H somt; i^'asants, by mere chance, discovered specimens which served to locate the buried city, and from that time to the present excavations have been irregularly carried on. At the time of our visit only about forty acres had been ex- cavated, leaving about ninety acres yet to be uncov- ered. I was told that, owing to lack of funds, the Italian government is not able to push the work rap- id 1 v. Our entrance to this curious city was through the gate facing the sea, for which privilege we paid two ,1 2«() OVH TOIIH ARonxO THK WORLD francs oacli, which included the «('rvi<'os of ti guide. Immediately after passing through the gate we turned t(. the right and entered the Pompeian Museum, in which is collected a large numher of the relics re- covered from tlie buried city. Most of these are similar to those I have described In the Naples Mu- seum. But in addition to these, we saw here the recovered skeletons of horses, dogs, cats and rats. And then through the middle of the first room was a row of nine skeletons of men and women whose lleshly forms have been very accurately reproduced in casts taken from the hollow moulds of the bodies wiiere they were discovered. One of these was a faithful sentinel whose remains were found standing erect, with lance in hand, at one of the gates, where he was on guard. A woman was lying with her face to the ground and her hand over her mouth, probab- ly to avoid suffocation; and the arrangement of her hair and the folds of her drapery were plainly seen. Two moni women, thought to be mother and daugh- ter, had perisJHHl together. It may be well to re- member that according to Josephus it was in Pompeii, on this drea;ii : rut.H have Mwmj worn in th«» stono-imvod stre^^ts l)y the "huriot wIiooIh. Merc are IIm' stiitely walls of toiii|)les,courts and otliHi- public huildiiij^p, -vitii hoiiib nf thoir Imavit iful <'()lunuiH, many of which are Ihited, standing in their places, while others liave fallen to the ground. Here are the humble dwellings of the poor with one or two small rooms; the mansions of the rich with their recieptioil-rooms, dining-rooms, bedrooms, bathrooms, open (Courts, flower gardens and playing fountains; and the sho|)s with their littings On the walls of souie of the dining-rooms were painted in beautiful colors the articles of food with which the tallies were Hupi)lied. There were ti.(f wine shops with the great jars still in their places. We examined a large bakehouse with a mill attached, and a counter on which the bread was ex- posed for sale Loaves were found in the ovens. Near by was a drug-store, in which were found bot- tles of pills and oilier medicines, and surgical in- struments. The public baths were (>xtensive and b 'lutiful, a-j I \V'»n< su|>plied with dressing-rooms, heating apparatus, etc. The IJasilica, the Civil Forum and the theatres u(M-e great buildings. We saw some diverted houses of shame, and paintings on the walls depict ing the vices of the people We saw a ])lace -•ailed ^'Skeletons' Lane," fr»mi which seven skeletons had b.'(>n taken. Inde.d, we saw here on every hand unmistakable evidences of thestate of civilization and the customs and nmnners of a Uoman city more than eiglite.-n hundred years ago As Sir J. \N . Dawson savs: ''The l^ompeian Museum at Naples, 282 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD in fact, would make one believe that three-fourths of our modern artistic decoration had come from Pompeii, or from the same sources with the art of that fossil city." But adieu to Pompeii. ( /> 1 LETTER XXXIX. j.^ CLIMBING MOUNT VESUVIUS. We took lunch at the Pompeii Hotel, procured horses and a guide, and at 1 p. m. nhurp, we set out to climb Mount Vesuvius. No more dcmkey for the little trotter. This time he took a horse like the rest of us, and was very proud when he tound that he could actually gallop without tumbling ott. Mrs. Trotter discovered that her horse was also a trotter, and a liard one too. On the way we were overtaken l>y a gentleman and his guide. He was a shipnuite trom Australia, and an actor. Farther on we came to a Itoman Catholic Convent, and over the door to the main entrance was written in large letters, ^'Purga- tory '' We thought the name approprnite. I am afraid, however, that our short stop at ''Purgatory''^ did not perfectlv purify us; lor from "purgatory we straightwav went np to h.ll. Our actor thought the trip was a pleasant and easy one. He said he was used to the road. , . ^i i u- At a considerable elevation we arrived at the ha t- wav house, where we had a few moments' rest and a drink of water. Then we rode rapidly on, our wind- * ii,K path leading us through great fields ot lava, till we reached the highest point we could make on horse- 233 i 1 1 il '2l\{ OVH TOVH AK()['NI) THK WORLD Imcrk. Here we «ii8nioui)tusher, at my exi.ei>se. Hut his proposi- tion did not meet with acceptance. We sat down ontheedgeof theold crater,far abovetiie cloud line, and IjlKK) feet almve the level <»f the sen, and vi«nved the -'landscape oW.'' It was an extensiv.^ and a lovely view. Not a cloud obstructed our vision. L(»veiy Naples seemed to lie at our feet, and over it the sun was hanging low in the west, ready to drop into the sea bevond. The great bay stretched away for miles in a southwestern direction, tinally mm- gling its waters with those «.f the Mediterranean Sea proper. The surrounding valleys w.jn^ .d<»thed with 28C OUR TOtTR AROUND THE WORLD vineyards, orchards and corn-fields, and dotted with towns and villages; and the great lava streams, which had many times rolled down the mountain lowards the sea since the destruction of Pompeii, were distinctly traced. It was a picture which a master-painter might have delighted to throw on canvas; but as we had in our party neither brush, canvas nor painter, we decided not to copy it. The unearthly noise at hand reminded us at this moment tiiat there vv'as something still more interesting to he seen. The summit of Vesuvius may be compared, in shape, to a huge plate with the raised rim, and a cone in the centre, extending a little above the outer edge, leaving a low circle between the rim and the central cone, resembling a wide, shallow moat. As we walked over this intervening ground we found it quite hot in places, and here and there were openings through which steam was issuing, in which you could soon cook an egg. Crossing this depressed crust, which was about a hundred yards wide, we stood on the very edge of the crater and looked right down into the awful abyss. The crater was circular, with vertical sides, remindi'.ig one of a great bucket, was probably a third of a mile in circumference and hun- dreds of feet dee|). Over more than half of the south side tliere was a crust, in places red-hot, serving as a tenii)orary hottom; but the remainder of the crust was broken away, leaving, on the north side, the great seathing, hissing, roaring lake of molten lava fully exposed to view. Every few moments the ij OLIMBINO MOUNT VESUVIUS 287 mountain would give a McK the flames would shct UP fifty feet l.iKh, «nd great ^»M^ "» '««»-'"' l^^" were tl.rown fur ..hove our heads, falling back into the crater with a thud. As there was no wmd, the smoke di.l nat interfere with ..ur view, and the sul- ,,h„r smell gave us no troul.le. We stood for on^ h.,„r watching this angry lake of Hre. Mrs. 1 r, tter couhl not find words to express her wonder, and de- clared she could look at it for weeks at n tune When we turned to make the descent 1 noticed that U.e shrewd Italians had carried the f '"i^"''- '""" dreehuKl „,e, I looked around in time Z Z, Mrn Trotter's horse quietly l was We arrived at the railway at half-past eight, and had t,. wait half an hour for the train. During -Z interval, our actor expressed a .lesire to have a glass of uulk to cool his "parched tongue." B„t as we ha. discharged onr guides, he had s.,me doubt ab.,„t n...kn,g himself understood. I gave him the Italian «"r.l for m,lk, and after practicing on it a few min- nm H, to the war(h»r named: The bone-dHpository in the Cupuchin C(Mi- vent, St. Peter's Church, the Vjiti(!iin Lihniry, the Tarpeian Hock, the Ontac<)nil)s, the Scuiu Siinta, or Holy Stairway, the ColosHeuin, the Puhice of Nero, the Arch of Titns, the Foriini, Paul's Prison and the Fountain of Trevi. We crosHcd tlm Tiber a number of times, over which a beautiful and costly new bridge is being built near the old one on whi(;h \\v crossed. The bone-house was a ghastly curiosity. We descended a llight of Hte])fi into the basement room of the convent and stood in what resembled Kzckii Ts valley of dry bones. At Hrst a sensi' of horror <'n'p( over us, which was soon changed into amusement, and finally into a feeling of disgust at such folly and superstition. Mark Twain's description of tins depository in "Innocents Abroad" is true to the let- ter: "Here was a spectacle for stMisitive nerves I Evidently the old nuisters had been at work in this place. There were six divisions in the ai)artment, and each division was onuimented with a style n\' decoration peculiar to itself— and tliesn decorations were in every instance formed of Innnan bones! There were shapely arches, built wholly of tliigli bones; there were startling pyramids, built wholly of grinning skulls; there wen^ (piint aichite(!tiiral structures of vari<»us kinds, built of shin-bones and the bones of the arm; on the wall w.-re elaborati, frescoes, whose curving vines were mad<' of knotlei'i %^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) v-. // /. ^* ^° >%' 5?r lA :/. 1.0 Efi^l I.I 2.5 ^ lllll^ 1.8 IIIIIM l.25,|,.4|,.6 ^ 6" ► p /a Vl fV ^p. y /A Photographic Sciences Corporation \ A .V ^ :\ sS^ \ 6^ ^^,^ '^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 872-4503 <.' '% T'T"?-" ■-— I'T'.TTl-W'F^T l\ '2i2 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD human vertebrae; whose delicate tendrils were made of sinews and tendons; whose flowers were formed of knee-caps and toe-nails. Every lasting portion of the human frame was represented in these intricate designs (they were by Michael Angelo, 1 think), and there was a careful finish about the work, and an attention to details that betrayed the artist's love of his labors as well as his schooled ability. I asked the good-natured monk who accompanied us, who did this? And he said, ' We did it' — meaning him- self and his brethren upstairs. I could see that the old fri'ar took a high pride in his curious show." If the collection of the human bones is a necessary part of the final resurrection, there will evidently be a great stirring here when Gabriel sounds his trumpet. Some time before our visit a number of American ladies were cautiously paying their respects to these sacred bones, when the rats, which had made their nest under the wrappings of an undisseoted skeleton, began to move the ghastly object about at a lively rate, causing the terrified ladies to flee from the place, believing that the resurrection had already begun. We breathed more freely on the out- side of this building J shall attempt no description of St Peter's Church. This has been attempted by many writers; but I have seen no description that does it justice. It is vast and im])osing f)eyon(i comprehension. It is the larg- est churcli building in tiie world, and is built in the shnji!' of M Latin cross. On tlic insidr v.i- s.-sw work- men, away up toward the top of tlie walls, who looked "so WB WENT TOWARD ROME" 243 like dolls moving about. As you stand at the en- trance and look at men and women at the opposite end, they appear as children walking. All the pic- tures adorning this great building are inlaid, or mo- saic. On our left, near the entrance, was situated the Baptismal Chapel. Over the font is a life-size picture of .fesus and John the 15ap{ist. Both are standing ankle-deep in tlie edge of a small stream, while the Baptist is pouring water out of a shell on the Saviour's head. Such is the fancy of Roman Catholicism. Here at the small font we also, saw a fat priest christen an infant, in the presence of about a dozen people. He first dipped his fingers in holy water and touched the infant's face; then he put on a few drops of holy oil, after which he poured a small pitcherful of water on its head and dried it with a towel; and finally he lighted a caudle and gave it to the father of the child to hold a moment. This completed the— what? Two or three Italian girls belonging to the party were laughing all through the ceremony, as though they considered it rare fun. On the same side, half-way down the church, we saw several detached confessional boxes, one for those speaking each of the principal languages. A perforated brass plate separates the priest from the confessor. The secrets are passed back and forth llirough the small holes. On the opposite side of the l)uilding is the most holy place, in which Christ is said to be preserved in the form of a loaf of bread; and before it were people on their knees worshiping. Near the great altar is a bronze statue of Peter, life 244 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD size, the great toe and part of the other toes having been kissed away by the people. On special occa- 'f sions the police stand by this statue and preserve order, while the long lines of worshipers file by and kiss what remains of the stump foot. The next ob- ject that attracted our attention was a beautiful marble £>tatue of a woman, representing Truth. Originally it was nude; but one of the old popes, thinking it immodest, ordered it draped. The people did not like the pope's action, and in referring to it, said they preferred the naked Truth. Since then it has gone by the name of "Naked Truth," and this fact, it is claimed, has given rise to the expression in current conversation. We walked through the Vat- ican Library, which is about half a mile long, and examined many objects of interest, chief of which to me was the celebrated Vatican Manuscript of the Bible, in book form. The offer of $50,000 for this manuscript from the managers of the British Museum was refused. We did not see "His Holiness," though we were close to him, and we did not offer to kiss his big toe, a la some American Protestants, to in- duce him to give us an audience. We had enough to do to look after our own toes. Pope Leo XI IL is now a very feeble old man, who considers himself a prisoner, shut up in the Vatican, whose influence among the people, even in Rome, is continually wan- ing. I was told by good authority that many of the Catholic churches in the city are almost deserted, and that most of the people who do attend them have no heart in it, but do so as a mere form. Our guide, a "so WE WENT TOWARD ROME" 245 very intelligent man, who is thoroughly acquainted with ancient and present Rome, first took me for a good Catholic, and so when he stood before the holy relics of the Church his tone was exceedingly rever- ent. Later, when he saw me smile at some of his stories, be thought I must be a poor Catholic; and finally he concluded that I was no Catholic at all. Then he opened his heart to us. He thought the "saints" were honored more than Christ, for he said there are 360 Catholic Churches in Rome, and not one of them is named for Christ. The Tarpeian Rock, down which criminals were thrown during the ancient Roman period, had a precipitous side nearly a hundred feet high. It is now considerably filled up at the bottom, and its top is occupied with houses. The Catacombs are outside the city ; and to visit them we drove along the Appian Way, over which Paul came into the city a prisoner, and out on which he is said to liave been beheaded. As we passed out under the great archway of the old city wall, the driver paused; and the guide, pointing to these mas- sive structures, said: "I will now show you the evi- dences of the beginning of Rome's downfall," We thought that these things looked more like evidences of Rome's prosperity. But the guide explained that when Rome was the mistress of the world she needed only her soldiers to protect her. But when her armies were gradually being driven from the field, and her enemies were closing in on the city, it was then that she needed the walls of defense. The guide was ¥ 246 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD right. But here are the Catacombs. We alight from the carriage, walk a short distance, pay an entrance fee to an old monk who gave each of us a lighted taper, and we all descended by u long flight of steps into the bowels of the earth. We walked miles along deep, dark, damp passages and through small cham- bers, excavated in the soft volcanic rock, whose walls are everywhere honeycombed with places, or loculi, for the repose of dead bodies. The galleries usually preserve the same level, are from two to three feet wide, interspersed with the small chambers and cross- ing one another every few steps, forming a vast labyrinth. It was like following the lines of a great checker-board. Almost every foot of the walls of these galleries and chambers has been occupied with a human body. The graves extended parallel with the length of the galleries, and were placed one above another from the bottom to the top. The bodies were carefully placed in the recesses, and the openings were filled with stone slabs or tiles and then com- pletely plastered over, making a smooth wall when all the locnli were filled. From many of the graves the plastering had been broken away, and the bones were exposed. The bones were so old that the mo- ment you touched them they crumbled to dust. Light and air are introduced by means of vertical shafts, sunk from the surface of the ground. These Catacombs constitute a most wonderful underground cemetery. The united length of the galleries has been estimated to be from 800 to 900 miles, and the number of graves at between 6,000,000 and 7,000,000. •> r. "so WE WENT TOWARD ROME" 247 It is now generally believed that they were the work of the early Christians, and that they were intended as the place of interment of their dead. What a mighty army of Christian soldiers 1 No wonder that heathen Rome, in fulfillment of prophecy, went down under its influence. The Catacombs were also used in time of persecu- tion as a place of refuge, and some of the chambers were converted into chapels for worship. These facts are proclaimed by the many Christian symbols which may still be seen on the walls, the tables for the observance of the Lord's Supper and baptisteries for the immersion of the new converts. They would serve as an admirable hiding place. When you once get well into this labyrinth you feel that you would be utterly helpless to find your way to the outside .world without a guide. Our guide told us that he had to drill a great deal before he would venture to take parties into them A French artist once had great difficulty in finding his way out of the Cata- combs. An atheist was lost for a number of davs in •^ them, and he was so impressed during the time that he became a convert to Christianity. It is said that an American gentleman, who boasted much of the progress of his country, visited the Catacombs, some years ago, in company with a number of Europeans; and becoming intoxicated, his companions laid him in a passage, retired and listened to see what he would say when he realized his surroundings. After a while he regained a measure of his usual clearness of mind, looked around on the closed graves and ex- 248 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD Jj claimed: "Hello, the resurrection morn,and Ameri- ca up first, ns usu;il I" The Holy SUiirw.-iy bus tweiily-eight marble steps, which aru now covered with wood to prevent their further aljrasion It is chiiined that this is the stair- . way which Jesus ascended when lie was brought be- 1 fore Pilate, and on tliree of them are pointed out drops of the Saviour's blood. We saw in Jerusalem the place from which, according to tradition, this stairway was taken. The good Catholic who climbs !j these steps on his knees and kisses the three drops I of blood is very near the portals of heaven I It was up these steps that Luther was crawling when he was specially impressed with the central thought of the Protestant Reformation. We watched a lady go from the bottom to the top. It was a laborious process, \ We preferred to go another way. There is a stair- way on the right and another on the left of the holy one. We ascended one of these, with the goats. What shall I say of the Colosseum? We were much impressed with this vast heathen ruin. Here \ again the evidences of Rome's grandeur and Rome's ^' decay meet. Most of its stately columns and mas- sive walls are still standing to tell their wonderful story. To this theatre all Rome resorted to witness the bloody conflicts. It is about 612 feet long, 515 feet wide, and 180 feet high. It had seats for 87,- CX)0 people, and standing room for 15,000 more. We stood in the arena where gladiatorial combats took place, and in which many thousands of Christians suffered martyrdom. We saw the dens in which tlie hungry wild beasts were kept, and from which they ■^ k I "8() WE WENT TOWARD ROME" 249 aprang forth, as the strong doors swung open, to de- vour their human prey. Yonder is the seat wliich tlie Emperor occupied, surrounded by the seats of senators and other distinguished persons, and over there is the . fountain at whicJi the participants in the cruel sports j washed and dressed themselves. When a few mo- ments later we stood in Paul's deep, chilly prison, in which he wrote, ''I was delivered out of the mouth of the lion," we had no doubt that he fully under- l| stood the meaning of contending with wild beasts. i We could also realize his need when he wrote to Tim- ^ othy in the same epistle, saying: "The cloak that I left at Troas with Carpus, when thou comest, bring with thee." Our carriage stopped under the marble Arch of \ Titus, which spans the street,and which Titus erected to commemorate his conquest of Jerusalem in A. D. 70. Above our heads, on our left, were sculptured representations of the golden table of showbread and the golden candlestick, being carried by Jews. J Thus this well-preserved arch has stood for more *^ than eighteen hundred years as an unmistakable monument of the truthfulness of the Holy Scriptures. We looked for the seven hills of ancient Rome; but they were not very conspicuous. They were only small hills which have partly disappeared. Indeed, Rome appears to be built on a level area, and it is surrounded by some swampy country. It possesses many nice streets, tall business houses and hand- some residences. We saw numerous beer-shops, bare-footed priests and gorgeously uniformed soldiers. 4 But notwithstanding all its defects, Rome presents many attractions and a pleasing appearance LETTER XLI. FROM ROME TO PARIS. We left Rome on Tuesday morning, July 31, at 8:10. Our train skirted the Mediterranean Sea, sometimes running quite close to it, and the country through which we passed was flat and, in places, swampy. At several farm-houses along the line, the people were engaged in threshing their wheat. At *i p. M. we arrived at Pisa, and we took rooms at the Royal Victoria Hotel. Our object in stopping at Pisa was to see its four famous monuments, the Leaning Tower, the Cathe- dral, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo, or Holy Ground. We climbed to the top of the Tower by an inner, spiral stairway, and had a very extensive view. The city is not large, is partly surrounded by an old wall and stands on the banks of the Arno, which winds its way through a fertile plain. This marble-cased, cylindrical tower is about 175 feet high, 50 feet in diameter, and overhangs its base more than 13 feet. The summit is secured with double rails, and a few feet lower is a belfry, in which are hanging seven bells. When you' stand on top of this tower, the people and horses on the streets look very small, and when you look over the lower 250 PROM ROME TO PARIS 251 edge of it you possess a sense of fear, as though the thing might fall with you. We did not feel much interest in the fine Cathe- dral, and so we spent most of our time in the Bap- tistery, which stands a short distance in the rear of * the Cathedral. This is a circular, marble buildinjjj, about 100 feet in diameter, and is covered with ji cone-surmounted dome 190 feet high, crowned with a statue of St. Raniero. In the interior tliere is a beautiful pool for the immersion of adults nnd infants, the principal part of which is feet square and 8^ feet deep. The building was commenced in A. D. 1153. We tested its remarkable echo. The little enclosed cemetery near the Catliedral, in which the distinguished men of Pisa are buried, was made holy ground by the fifty-three ship \ondH oi dirt brought from Jerusalem and deposited here. Wo did not become very enthusiastic over such holiness. We took the night train from Pisa, and we thought we had secured a compartment to ourselves. P>ut an Italian lady and gentleman managed to get in with us ajid prevented our sleeping most of the night by their constant talking. We were better pleased with Northern Italy than we were with Sontln^ni Italy. The corn, we noticed, was nuieh larger, and the oranges, lemons, figs and grai)eshad mostly given place to apples, peaches, a])rico(s and pears. The country had a green, fresii apjx'aranee. We saw scv eral women assisting tlie nviw in savin<^^ hnv. Thcv seemed to have "equal vIhIiIs" with tli" nifii We expected to take breakfast ;il In i A. V, Ii<-r.' \v(i 252 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD changed oars. But as onr train was behind time in reacliing that city, wo luid only timn to pass luirriediy from one train to the other. We eouhl get nothing to eat till the afternoon, nxeept a loat of hread and some peaches wiiich we |)iircha.sed from a woman through the car window, an■ ?& ., .K. >)■!.■" m boat, thus taking our leave of French soil. One hour's smooth sailing across the English Channel brought us to Dover, England. Here a fast train for London awaited us. That portion of England through which we passed was beautiful The coun- try looked more like a succession of well-kept gar- dens, divided by low hedge fences, than like farms. Again we were attracted by the tile-covered farm houses, the people harvesting and threshing their wheat, and mowing their meadows. The English women wouhl not be behind the French wives and maidens, for some of them were also assisting in hay- making After all, it is possible that such an active, outdoor life is more healthful to body and more wholesome to mind and morals than political speech- making In the meadows of Italy, France, England and America there is an abundance of room for the women, who are thus inclined, to exercise ''equal rights. ■ ' It is a far more laudable business than be- ing engaged in writing a so-called "Woman's Bible." Onr train moved into the Cannon Street station, London, at 5:30 p. m., and we stopped over night at the Cannon Street Hotel. No, thank you, I do not propose to write up Lon- don. You must be satisfied with a bit of our personal experience in the "world's metropolis." Well, in the first place, we were not pleased with the London hotels. They are nearly all conducted on the tariff system, charging separately for each principal item that goes to make u[) the accommodation and meals. When I settled our bill next morning I was charged ■^ PROM PARIS TO LONDON 25' :i One iiiiel train ;land 50un- gar- arms. farm their iglish 3 and Li hay- ictive, more peech- igland :or the 'equal lan be- 3ible." tation, ight at ip Lon- lersonal /"ell, in London e tariff al item i meals, charged four shillings and sixpence for service in our rooms. The only service we had here received consisted in Lady Bridget sticking her head in at the door the evening before and asking if we needed anything. When I returned to our rooms, I began to turn the l)ed8 upside down and misplace things generally. Mrs. Trotter looked on in astonishment, and asked me if I had gone mad. I explained that I was not mad, but as I had just paid four shillings and six- ponce for room-service I thought it right that the serv- ant should give us the worth of the money. At one o'clock, when we left the hotel. Lady Bridget had not made her appearance. When we took our seats at the breakfast table, a stately figure, dressed in black clothes, emerged from a side room and moved slowly towards us, as he put the finishing touches on his toilet. We hardly knew whether it was Lord Creeper approaching us to introduce himself, or a servant dispatched to wait on us at the table. It proved to be the latter. As we expected to spend several davs in London, we removed to what was ad- vertised as a first-class boarding-house, adjoining the British Museum. We selected this place because it atforded us a rare opportunity of studying the un- paralleled collection of interesting objects in the museum. Here we found several American boarders. We had an abundance of room and plenty of style; but the food was utterly inadequate to satisfy the appetite of a hungry American. It was easy to read their disappointment in the faces of the boarders. They finished each meal hungry. The lady of the 25S OVR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD house, who sat at the head of the table, tried to keep us cheerful by lier pleasant conversation. But we all with one accord got sadder and sadder, as the days passed. The English liang up their fowls to "mellow" before they cook them. They do not care for cheese till it becomes strong enough to walk alone; then they onii it "tine old cheese." The few crumbs of cheese we got at our boarding house had a way of announcing their approach to the table. At noon on the fifth day we reached the climax. I arose from the table and went out. I met near the house a lady boarder from New York City. She 9aid in solemn tones: "Mr. Floyd, I have been thinking of asking you what you think of our boarding- house." I told her she could judge my opinion from the fact that I was on my way to find another board- ing-house. She said: "I believe I will follow your example." One by one, the boarders quietly took their departure; while others filled their places and had the same experiences. Sunday proved a busy day with us. At 11a. m. I preached, by invitation, in the West London Tab- ernacle. At 8 p. M. we heard Canon Wilberforce ]n'each in the Westminster Abbey. Wilberforce is very ])opular in London, and hence there was not standing room in the great building for the people who crowded to hpar him. The preacher read his sf^rinon; but we were too far from him to follow its connection. It seemed to me that the Abbey was better adapted to cover thn reruMins of some <»f Eng- land's famous men and women than to serve as a PROM PARIS TO LONDON 250 house of worship. After the service we got one of the attendants to point out some of the noted graves. We paused longest over the slabs that marked the resting place of Sir Isaac Newton and Dr. David Liv- ingstone. In the evening, ut ():80, we attended the Metropolitan Tabernacle to hear Tliomas Spurgeon, whom' I knew in New Zealand, prmcli. Ine Taber- nacle was comfortai)ly filled, and Mr. Spurgeon preached a plain, practical sermon. This church uses neither organ nor choir; but the singing was congregational and hearty, the leader standing on the platform. The Lord's Supper was observed at the close of the service. The church spreads the Lord's Table on every Sunday evening. We spent most of Monday in the Zoological Gar- dens, which contain 8,000 animals. Indeed, during our week's stay in London we were busy seeing what we could of the great city. We spent much time in the British Museum, and were most interested in the Egyptian, Babylonian and Assyrian Rooms. I can not even begin to tell my readers in these letters of what we saw and learned in this immense and valua- ble collection. Only one thing I will mention. In the "Manuscript Department" I copied the follow- ing: "Case G. A volume of the celebrated 'Codex Alexandrinus,' containing the Greek text of the Holy Scriptures written in uncial letters on very thin vel- lum, probably in the middle of the fifth century. Presented to King Charles L by Cyril, Patriarch of Constantinople. " The manuscript is in book form, and the size of the page is about 11 by 14 inches. 260 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD We enjoyed several rides through the principal thor- oughfares of London. The beat way to see London is on top of a bus. Most of the drivers are well acquainted with the city, and are fond of telling you what they know. You can go a long way for a penny, and for a few pennies you can ride on a bus all day. Sometimes your bus will get into a perfect jam of traffic, at the point where a number of streets con- verge, and you will imagine how you are going to get out. But the driver, with the aid of the police, always makes a way for your escape without accident. We went to the East End, and down into the no- torious Whitechapel district. We wanted to see if General Booth's picture of ''Darkest England" is a correct one. We did not meet "Jack the Ripper," but we saw plenty of people there clothed and in their right mind. We also saw evidences of extreme poverty and vice. But we believe the picture has been somewhat overdrawn. We also visited the Houses of Parliament, London Bridge, Tower Bridge, St. Paul's Cathedral, office of the Christian Common- wealth, Hyde Park, "Cleopatra's Needle," on the Thames embankment, and had a number of boat-rides on the river Thames. London is not a pretty city. Its streets and walks are narrow, and seldom dry. The show-windows of its business houses do not always appear to the best advantage, and to one who has been accustomed to a flood of Australian sunshine, the city presents a gloomy appearance. J ^■^ ^ LETTER XLIII. PROM LONDON HOME. My around-the- world story is almost told. I must now hasten to the finish. On Friday, August 10, at 3:10 p. m., we left the Waterloo Station, London, for Southampton. We were delighted with the fine country through which our train passed. The green grass, the neat hedges, the rich vegetable gardens and the groves of tall pine trees, interspersed with wheat fields and patches of native bush, were very inviting to the eye. Several machines were busy cutting and threshing the wheat on the small fields. We arrived at Southampton at 5:30 p. M , where we remained till the following afternoon. On Saturday morning a friend from London, who was spending a holiday on the coast near Southampton, called for us in a buggy, and took us a delightful drive into the country. Southampton is a chilly place, and we were glad when the time came to get away from it. We took passage for New York on the S. S. Bcr- lin, of the American Line. At 6 p. m we left the wharf, and we sailed out over the fine sheet of water comprising the harbor, called the Southampton Water, bordered with green grass, ornamental trees 261 262 OUR TOUR AROUND THE WORLD and handsome residences. On our left, we passed the Isle of Wight, on which could be seen the towns of Cowes, and Osborne House, the residence of the queen. We had on board 550 passengers, 800 of whom were in the steerage; and 100 more were better adapt- ed to the steerage than the saloon, as the sequel will show. The passage over the Atlantic was smooth, and, with two exceptions, it was uneventful. On Sunda}^ before our arrival at New York the Germans in the sale ^n, joined by some English and American passengers, held an orgy that began at noon on the Lord's Day and continued till after midnight. Under the influence of the bad beer and whisky, supplied by the bar, these devotees of Bacchus came to the conclusion that the whole ship belonged to them. The filthy language and general uproar became so unbearable that we had to appeal to the stewards and stewardess, then to the chief steward, and finally to the captain, before we could get a little quiet and rest. This is a sample of the material that the ships are daily dumping on to the American continent. Our immigration and assimilation laws, if we have any worth the name, are sadly in need of serious attention by Uncle Sam. On Monday morning at 7 we narrowly escaped a very serious accident. As I went on deck the ship was suddenly thrown into commotion by coming in col- lision with a large four-mast sailing vessel. The fog was very heavy, and the ships did not see each other till their bows were nearly touching. The sailing "^--^" • FROM LONDON HOME 2(in •j; vessel did not strike us square, hut glanced off and scraped heavily the side of our steamer, doing us no harm. The Berlin backed up and spoke the ship; and learning that she was only slightly damaged and needed no assistance, our officers took her name and destination and moved on. At the time of the col- lision Mrs. Trotter was in her room, and the shock, accompanied by the sudden closing of the port-hole by the ship, startled her. The sons of Belial, who had given us so much trouble during the night and who were sober enough to get on deck, now began to put on serious airs We felt as if the Jonahs ought to be thrown overboard, and cast forth on their native shores, to remain till they repent and learn decent manners. At noon we passed into the New York Harbor, with the graceful Statue of Liberty on our left, and our good ship was soon made fast to the wharf. — Native land I "Thy name I love; I love thy rocks and rills, Thy woods and templed hills; My heart with rapture thrills, Like that above." We spent two nights and most of two days in New York City. We walked over the wonderful Brooklyn Bridge and visited Brooklyn,the "City of Churches," returning over the bridge by train We were t'e- lighted with the beautiful and extensive Central Park, and were pleased to see the p:gyptian Obelisk standing on a prominent knoll in tlie park. On Wednesday morning we crossed the Hudson River on the ferry-boat to- Jersey City, where we took the -i\ In visit the Capitol, the Washington Monuinctit and the While IToiiso. We walked through th(^ Il<)iis(M)l' Ke|)n!.^entativeH, the Senate Chaniher and the other principal rooms and halls of the Cap- itol. Tlie \Vasliington Monument stands on an emi- nence, overlooking the city. It is 555 feet high, is square and tapers gradually to the top. There is a spiral stairway on the inside, by which you can as- cend to the top. An elevator operated by the Gov- ernment also goes to the summit every half-hour. No charge is made for its use. Of course we took the elevator. The President was not at home, but we saw him arrive at the Union Depot on a train from New York, shortly before eleven at night. After driving over the city Mrs. Trotter pronounced Wash- ington next to Paris in beauty. In the evening we spent considerable time in a restaurant, eating ice- cream. The colored waiter went back and forth re- plenishing our plates till his white teeth began to i' shine as an unmistakable token of his amusement. At 11 :10 P.M. we took the train over the Chesapeake and Ohio route, and the next morning we looked out on the rugged, heavily wooded mountains and hills on both sides of us. Descending from the mountain ranges, we soon entered the Blue-grass region of Ken- tucky, and at 6 p. m., Thursday, August 23, 1894, we arrived at Lexington, our starting point, thus completing Our Tour Around the World. At homel Here we will let the curtain fall. / ' LETTER XUV. CONCLUSION. I HAVE been frequently asked two important que8tions,which I will liere briefly answer. 1. "Did your observations in Palestine serve to confirm your faith in the accuracy of the Scriptures?" 2. "Wliat is the best time of the year for paying a visit to the Holy Land and the Continent?" To the first question I have no hesitation in re- plying with emphasis, y>8. ICrnestRenan, the ableit and most polished writer belonging to the Frencii School of Skeptics, in his "Life of Jesus," says: "The scientific commission for the exploration of ancient Phenicia, of which I was thedirector in 18(30 / and 1861, led me to reside on the frontiers of Galilee, and to traverse it frequently. I have travelled through the evangelical province in every direction; I hav