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^^^^-•..■^•^■•f-. •%

DURHAM

M. W. WHITFIELD, M.A.

Repyinted from
" The H'>ll Quarter I}' and East Riding Portfolio.''

HULL:
CHARLES HENRY BARNWELL, 9, SAVILE STREET.

1885.

By M. \V. Whiti-ikii). m.a.

''T^HE two nortliern cuuntit s oi Kiii;-
J[ land are prohably Uss known to
dwellers in this district than the>' deserve-
to be. Indeed it must surprise many
readers of The Hull Quarterly to ht-
told that within three hours" ride of their
own doors is to be found a city which for
combination of natural scenery of rock,
wood and water, with architectural fj;ran-
deur and antiquarian interest may stand
comparison with any spot upon even the
classic Rhine. Yet those who h vv setii
the city of St. Cuthbert,

" Where his cathedral, hii^je and vast.
Frowns down upon the Wear."

need not travel across the German Ocean
in search of relics of the romantic past.
The long line of Prince Bishops and
Golden Canons would hold their own
among any assemblage of Feudal times,
and have even to the present day left
their mark upon the ancient walls and
mouldering buildings of the old city on
the hills that seems stranded like some
grim Viking's ship amid the bustle and
progress of the populous county over
which its prelates once reigned supreme.
Respecting the name Durham, autho-
rities seem to disagree ; some say the
original name was Dunholme, whilst

* For the loan of the blocks to illustrate this article, we
are deepty indebted to Geo. Walker, Esq., of Durham.

.1,1 1

4l\'

others consider it to be Dcor-liam, the
home of the vviUl beasts ; anyone who has
seen the city on " pay-(la\ ,' when ihr
miners are leaving tlie pul)lic houses will
be more incUned to agree with the iatti-r
interpretation. However that may br,
the city owes its fame to the arrival of
the relics of Saint Cuthbert, a Northum-
brian saint who lived and died in the
odour of sanctity about the latter half of
the seventh century. The good saint,
after a life of austerity and devotion, was
buried in the church of Lindisfarne, and
• in due course stories arose of miracles
wrought in his lifetime and performed
at his tomb after his death. Amongst
other remarkable facts, it was found that
years after his burial his body remained
uncorrupted and undecayed, and this
tended in no small degree to increase the
reverence paid at his shrine.

The years rolled on, and a new race
appeared upon the nothern coasts, the
fierce Danes or Northmen, worshippers
of Woden and Thor and the wild gods of
Scamiinavia, whom our Saxon forefathers
had renounced in favour of a milder and
more humanizing religion. Tiiese rough
sea-warriors, descending upon our shores,
pillaged, burnt, and destroyed all that
came in their way. But small respect
had they for Sax ;- saint or sinner ; and
ill would it have fa ed with the monks of
Lindisfarne had they encountered the
savage Norsemen. But they resolved to
anticipate attack; so, carrying with them
the sacred body of their saint, they deter-
mined to seek a safer home in some spot
farther from the coast. For a time they
wandered about, and at length settled at
Chester-le-street, a little town about six
miles from the present city of Durham,
whose name betokens its Roman origin
and whose church celebrated its thou-
sandth anniversary not long ago. But
the Danes having once foumi out the
advantage of living upon other people
rather than of working for themselves.

tlid not discontinue their ravages, and
went further afield. The monks of St.
Ciithbert with their weighty char.'je must
perforce recommence their travels, this
time to Ripon. After a sojourn of a few
months, tliey resolved to return to (Chester.
Hilt on the way ^ stranj^e event occurred.
I'or when the monks and their burden
arrived ne;ir the Wear, the body of the
saint roiild be moved no further, but
S'eined fastened to tlie f^round, which
<ireumstance naturally astounded and
1)1 rploxed the pe iple. They therefore
Ivtook themselves to fasting and prayer.
Three days afterwards the saint appeared
a 'Ireain t(^ one of the companv.

inr (iii'.Ufc i'liapf

tell ii!< him lli.it his rcstinj^ phicf; was nut
to h<; (2tu,'stei -Ic-strcLjt, but Dunhohiu'.
Now the monks knevv no phicu of that
name, and so were in some distress ; but
aft.(M- a timf.' thcs' oveilieard two women
lalkiii;,', oMe asking' the other if she had
seen her cow. 'Phi; other replied that it
was in Dunliolme. Thus their doubts
were soon set at rest, and the appointed
plac(." was discovered. To silence those
wiio disbeheve, behold the north si'le of
Durham catiiedral, with the effi4;y of the
Dun ('ow, atlestin<^ the truth of thestor)'!
And also, thon,i,di somewhat laterevidcnce,
the Dull C'ow Inn, so often th(' (juarters
of the Public Functionary who comes to
'• work off " those who have three weeks'
notice to quit the Durham gaol.

At first a little church was reared ;
but later times were not contented with
the humble structure of their forerunners.
So Carileph. the sixth Bishop determined
to erect a building worthy of so great a
saint ; and the ponderous pillars and
Norman arches be^^an to rise from their
rocky foundations. Succeeding gener-
ations carried on the work, and the result
is the noble pile that still dominates the
winding stream.

The body of St. (^uthbert remains
interred within the cathedral. About
sixty years ago the tomb was opened, and
the remains of the saint were seen, whilst
several relics were removed to the Dean
and Chapter Ld^rar)', where they are now
preserved. The Roman Catholics: have a
tradition that the triie position of St. Cuth-
bert's tomb is only known to three per-
sons, sworn not to reveal the secret. But
the last examination of the remains seems
to have settled the question beyond lea-
sonable doubt.

At the west vn<\ of the cathedral is a
'emarkable building known as the Gali-
lee Chapel. This is conspicuous for the
elegance of its architecture, and also as
containing the tond) of the Venerable
Bede. Truly Durham with its ecclesias-

tical and academic repose seems a more
suitable resting place for the pious and
learned monk than his own monastic
residences of Jarrow and Wearmouth,
now swarming with industrial and com-
mercial populations.

On the door of the northern porch
may still be seen: Totesque figure which

The Sanctuary Knocker.

served as a knocker for those who claimed
the right of Sanctuary. Night and day
a monk was stationed in a chamber above
the gateway to admit at once all who
claimed the privilege of St. Cuthbert's
protection. This was afforded for a
space of not more than thirty-seven days.
After that time had elapsed, should the
offender not have succeeded in making
his peace with his pursuers, he was con-
veyed to the sea coast, placed in the first
ship bound for a foreign land, and it was
his own fault if he came again within
reach of his country's laws. Owing to a
certain adventure with a lady in which
the Saint only escaped with his life by a
miracle, women were not allowed to
approach the sacred shrine. There is a
story told of two women who attempted
to penetrate the sanctuary disguised in
men's attire, but being discovered were
condemned to public penance before the
whole city.

The ancient custom of ringing the
curfew bell is still observed in Durham.
Every night of the week, Saturdays ex-
cepted, the bell is tolled at nine o'clock.

It is s.iiil that owr. Sitiii'lay «'VC'nii)|^ I>hij;
iij^o tin: riu^'tr Nveiit up tlu' Towci accord-
in)4 to custom, but disappfartd inystiri-
oiisly. and was fievcr more stcn. Tlit*
Iwil Olio, in fact, li'id carried liiin oH".
Sii)ce that time no ('urfew Ixll has bteii
ruiif^ on Saturday ni|.dit.

W'c cannot now speak of the glories
(if the chapel of thf; Nine Altars, nor of
the exalted iJishop's Throne, nor of the
iniL;hty Nornian pillarsunequalledhetween
tliis and Kf;ypt ; we must proceed outside
to the cloisters and the Convent buildings
now partly usedasa Libraryand Museum.
Past these we go through the Crypt and
emerge in the College, which is not an
educatioi'al establishment, but th<! resi-
dence of " the Dean, the Canons and
other members of this cathedral church,"
as the Sunday bidding nrayer has it.
These poor men have been j)itifully shorn
of late years ; instead of an income of five
thousand a year they are obliged to be
content with a modest thousand ; the
Dean, however, receiving three. The
last of the " Golden Canons " died a few-
years a.;o, having, according to popular
report, extracted a (piarter of a million
from the coffers of the Church. The
residences here were built to match the
incomes, and many of the rooms are triih
baronial in their proportions,

A dark and steep passage leads from
the College to the river side. Here beau-
tiful walks are laid out along the winding
banks, overshadowed by venerable trees
and affording delightful views on every
hand, now high above the stream and
again at the level of the water ; at one
time over or under an antique bridtre, at
another past the plashing of the weir of a
water-mill ; and again beneath the cawing
of a colony of rooks. Respecting these
latter it is said that the wife of one of the
cathedral dignitaries, being annoyed by
their presence, obtained permission to
have them shot or driven away. The
disgusted birds withdrew from the spot.

But the very year thai the old lady died,
the birds afj;ain took up their quarters in
the woods which they had quitted. Some
hundr' dsare shot ''vt^ry year ; but in spite
of this they live and flourish, a numerous
and noisy assembly.

Not far from the rookery we come to
Count's Corner, rendered notable by the
residence of a litt.e Polish Count, who
lived here to the <;reat age of ninety-nine.
He was so sinall that when his wife, a
woman of ordinary size, was angry with
him, she used to put him on t!ie chimney-
piece and would not take him down until
he promised to behave himself to her
satisfaction. In the museum on Palace
(jreen may still be seen the suit of clothes
he used to wear ; and a life size model of
the little Count himself.

Opposite Count's Corner we see rising
from the rock}^ heights, the Church of St.
Oswald, which possesses a special interest
to Hull visitors as the scene of the labours
of the late Dr. Dj'kes, whose family was
well known in Hull during the last gener-
ation. St. Oswald, perhaps, is not so well
known in this district. He was a Saxon
king who ruled over Northumbria more
than a thousand years ago. He was a
championof Christianity against the pagan
ruler of the rival kin^'dom of Mercia, but
was unsuccessful on the field of battle
and was slain by his rival. On the east
wall of the church, is a statue of St. Cuth-
bert, holding the head of St. Oswald in his
hand. The church presents no special
architectural features. Indeed, with the
exception of course of Durham C'athedral,
we who are accustomed to the glories ot
Beverley, of Bridlington, of Patriujjton,
and (" i our own Holy Trinity, are not in-
clined tolook with special admiration upon
the church architecture of the North. The
churchyard has now overflowed its ancient
boundaries and stretches across the road to
a bare, uninteresting patch of ground,
which would call for no mention did it not
containthegraveofthelate Dr. Dykes, now^

I/;
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: I I

becoming a modern Mecca to a large class
of churchmen.

Still keeping to the windings of the
river we come upon an ancient bridge,
with pointed arches, and built upon an
incline. The curious in architecture will
notice that the bridge was originally
much narrower, and the widened part
may be known by the plainness of the
arching as distinguished from the ribs of
the earlier structure.

We need not follow the woods and
water further than to the race-course,
where the miners often resort for purposes
of demonstration. It is a stirring sight to
see the companies from the numerous pits
coming into the city, each headed by its
band, and all marching to the sound of
independent tunes, producing the same
effectasthe simultaneous playing of all the
several pieces of half a score of concerts
upon instruments remarkable more for
strength than sweetness. Then come the
orations of Bradlaugh, and of Burt, and
other notabilities. At the conclusion of
the proceedings some go home drunk,
and others sober. Upon the whole, the
miner of the North, though rough in out-
ward appearance, is a good hearted fellow,
and those who have most to do with him
like him best, but it takes some little time
to become accustomed to his peculiarities.

That portion of the river which flows
by the race course, is the scene of an
annual celebration of some interest to the
Northern mind. Everyone knows how
the rowers of the Tyne have for many
years disputed the supremacy in aquatics
with all comers. This devotion to boating
is not confined to the Tyne, but has spread
to the neighbouring river. Every year
towards the end of June crowds of holiday
makers of all classes throng the river
banks to cheer on their champions.
During the races, business is suspended,
and the shops are closed. Crowds pour
in from the neighbouring towns, and a
high carnival is held. In addition to the

more serious races, one takes place which
is not without novelty to the visitor.
Sturdy coal trimmers are pitted, eight
against eight, with no means of propulsion
but their trimmer's shovels. These urge
on their craft amid deafening shouts from
their several backers, and laughter from
the spectators. Nor is the racing confined
to the plebeian or professional ranks.
Grave old Clerics and University Dons
may be seen careering along the banks,
urging on their respective favourites ; and
great is the excitement of their partisans,
according as " Varsity," or " School," or
*' City," happens to win the day.

The University of Durham is ancient
in intention, though not so in fact. Oliver
Cromwell is said to have formed the
design of founding a seat of learning here,
and actively busied himself about the
preliminaries of the work. Before every-
thing was completed the great Protector
died. It was not the part of the king of
the Restoration to further Cromwell's
schemes, and sc naturally the project fell
through. In this condition things re-
mained until the year 1832, when the
Ecclesiastical authorities of the diocese
made application to parliament to set
apart certain incomes for the foundation
and maintenance of a university. A
senate was appointed, and what had been
but a project became an accomplished
fact. The undertaking grew apace, and
in course of time added to itself Colleges
of Medicine and Science at Newcastle,
and even affiliated Colleges in Africa and
the West Indies. In these days of express
trains facilities of locomotion have
rendered access to the older Universities
easier, and so have somewhat diminished
the necessity for a University of the North;
but still Durham presents to many men
advantages not obtainable at either
Oxford or Cambridge. For example, the
possibility of obtaining a degree after two
years' residence renders Durham a very
desirable place for those who wish to

commence their University conise some-
what later in hfe, and to whom, tlierefore,
the savinfjf of a year is a matter of impor-
tance. The same shortenin,'.; of lesidence
is also an advantage to those whose
means are limited, and who would wish
to save the expense of a third year at
(2olle,i,fe. Inducements, too, are held out
to students of Theolo^^ical Colleges to
finish their course by taking a de^'ree at
Duriiam.

Another educational institution of
Durham is the ancient and ricldy endowed
Grammar School. Thouu;h its numbers
have never swollen to the proportions of
the great public schools of the Midlands
and the South, it has produced a constant
succession of able sciiolars. Its latest
honour lists begin with a Senior Wrangler,
and end with six scholarships gained at
the Universities during the preceding
term by boys in the school. On the river,
too, its performances have been by no
means despicable, and it has produced
more University Oars than any other
school of its size in the kingdom.

Even were there no cathedral in this
city, Durham would still be one of the
most picturesque of towns. • For the grey
old castle walls, climbing the wooded
rocks, tier above tier, present a sight
which in striking and picturesque bold-
ness it would be difficult to match. The
present building is of many ages, part
being as old as the time of William the
Conqueror. It is now used as a residen-
tial college for the University. From
this point of view it presents some features
scarcely to be rivalled at Oxford or Cam-
bridge. The old baronial hall, for instance,
is a dining room of which any college
might well be proud. The grand remains
of Norman work, and the ancient tapes-
tries are well worthy to be compared with
anything of the kind elsewhere; whilst
the situation ot the students' rooms in the
old keep of the castle, with their views of
hill and wood and stream, is pertainlv with-

^ *

out rival.

Here in olden times was the residence
of the great Prince Bishops, and hence
they ruled their subjects, even with the
power of life and death. Since the foun-
dation of the University they have retired
to the castle of Bishop Auckland, ten
miles away, and only occupy a suite of
rooms here during brief visits to the city.
Though the See has been greatly dimin-
ished from its ancient grandeur, it still
remains one of the richest of Bishoprics;
and its traditions of learning, at all events,
have been well preserved by the appoint-
ment of the scholar of European reputa-
tion who now occupies the Episcopal seat.
Tradition asserts that there is a subter-
ranean passige for some miles from the
Castle to the old Priory of Finchale,
charmingly situated at a rocky bend of
the river Wear. This deprives its origin
from St. Godric the hermit, whose mar-
vellous austerities gained him a great
reputation for sanctity. During the
depth of winter he would stand whole
nights in the running water of the river,
to mortify the flesh, once making the devil
so angry that he stole the saint's clothes.
The monastery was suppressed in the
time of Henry the Eighth. Its ruins bear
interesting traces of the changes they
have undergone at the hands of succeed-
ing generations.

Other old foundations are situated in
the immediate neighbourhood, and castles
and noblemen's seats innumerable at a
few miles' distance. For example, the
Hospital at Sherburn, founded seven
hundred years ago for the reception of
lepers. As time went on, the revenues of
the hospital increased enormously, while
the disease died out in England. But the
income was then employed for the estab-
lishment of an alms house for aged men,,
and a dispensary lor the poorer classes of
the country. Thus the foundation serves
to carry out the beneficent purpose of
relieving pain and suffering, though in a

.1.

.1'

f(nm necessarily differing from that orig-
inally designed.

Another of the institutions of the
neighbourhood is the Roman Catholic
College of Ushaw, which owes its foun-
dation to a settlement from Douay in
Prance, during the last century. Here
on tlic top of a wdd n^oor the visitor is
istonished by coming upon a magnificent
■ isscmblage of buildings, with splendid
chaj)els, libraries, museums, and all the
appliances necessary for more than four
hundred students, trom the youngest boys,
to those who are about to enter the
Roman Catholic priesthood.

Within a few minutes' walk of the
centre of the city is to be seen all that
remains of Neville's Cross, which gave its
name to the battle in which the King of
Scotlantl was taken prisoner. For many
N'ears, this neglected fragment was left
covered with earth and rul)bish as though
of no interest whatever. At length an
anxious antiquary bestirred himself to do
a little for its restoration and protection,
and the dirt was cleared away. No
sooner was this done, than some mischie-
vous spirit be^'an to play havoc among
the stones ; so it was deemed better to
<.lecently re-inter the remains, and enclose
them from harm within a lofty iron pali-
sade. Thus secured they will at all events
escape destruction.

During the battle of Neville's Cross,
Some ot the monks ascended the Tower
to s(;e tlie fray. Hcmce arose the custom
of ascending the Tower and singing
hyuMis on the anniversary ot the fight.
The custom still survives, but under
changed conditions ; the date has in
course of time been altered to the 29th
of May, while the monks have given place
to the white robed choristers, who still
sing their annual songs from the three
sides of the Tower which command a
view of the battle-field.

Durham is connected with many
:names well known in the history of our

T—

country ; as Piidsey, who was om* of the
rulers of Enfjland durinjj; the absence of
Richard the First in the Holy Lcind. In
another field, Butler, the author of
the immortal Analogy was l^ishop of
Durham during the last century. The
city was for some years represented in
parliament by John Bright, and one of
its present members is the late Solicitor
General, Sir Farrar Herschell, g.c. It haw
been the home of many learned authors,
and at present numbers among its Cathe-
dral and University officials several
writers of fame and erudition. May the
ancient city long continue to sustain the
boast of its University's motto —

'^^Fundamenta ejus super montibus Sanctis."