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I' i fi I'- \ ;\ ■/: r>- : 1 1 n m > >Mr 5 ( S-»*V. *V'i!«;/ m^ C^-JV "a 4' ?^ •v."' ■■ /l I "»■%. ^•- -*, 0>' :m. :%- till THE FUR HUNTEES OF THE FAE WEST; A NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN THE OEEGON AND EOCKY MOUNTAINS. BY ALEXANDER ROSS, AUTHOR OP "adventures OF THE FIRST SETTLERS OX THE OREGON' OR COLUMBIA RIVER." IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO.. 05, CORNHILL. 1855. ^ r i- ?At)P f LOHPOK : WOODFALL AKD KINDEB. ANGEL COUBI. SUNNBB STBKBT. DEDICATION. TO SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, Governor-in-Chiep of Prince Rupert's Land. ij In completing the narrative of my adventures, to whom can I so appropriately inscribe this portion of my work as to yourself — under whose auspices I acted during the last four years of my career, under whose command my closing journey was performed, whose kindness and courtesy I have experienced for many years, and to whose liberality I am indebted for a resting-place in this the land of my adoption. When, upwards of thirty years ago, the Imperial Parliament sanctioned a coalition of the rival con panies of the North-West and Hudson's Bay, re- quiring at the same time that the natives should be evangelised and civilised, it was under your auspices that the former arduous undertaking was accomplished, and the latter praiseworthy good work commenced. a 2 IV DEDICATION. I And now the Red River Academy, sending its light into tlie wilderness, and already furnishing students to the Universities of England, Scotland, and Canada, is the monument of your zeal for the education of our youth. The churches of every denomination of Christians throughout the Conti- nent bear witness to your desire for the promotion of religious instruction, as well as the civilisation of the native Indians. And lastly — not to omit material interests — two hundred importers from England, with capital almost exclusively of colonial creation, evidence the rewards of agriculture, industry, and commercial enterprise under your fostering care. May it please you to accept the dedication of my work, And believe me to be, Sm, With sincere respect, Your most obliged and faithfiil servant, ALEXANDER ROSS. PREFACE. \A't The Author of the following sheets has spent the last forty-four years of his life, without a single day's intermission, in the Indian territories of North America ; the first fifteen years in the regions of Columbia, that farthest of the "far west;" the remaining years in the Red River Settlement, a spot more effectually cut off from the rest of the world than any other colony of the empire. Under these circumstances, if he has earned the doubtful advan- tage of enacting a tale of his own, he has enjoyed but scanty opportunities of adorning it. In 1849, the Author published a naiTative of his adventures, ending with the overthrow of the Pacific Fur Company;* and the favourable reception of hi * " Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River," by Alexander Ross. VI rUKFACK. I 1 l.iLours indiiecs liiiu nt^aiu to appear before the public with an a(3coiiiit of his ficrvico.s in the great companies of liis own eountiy. His aim lias been to exhibit realities : to relate facts as they have occurred ; to im[)art to others at their quiet fire- sides the interest of a wild and adventurous life, without its toils, privations, and dangers ; and to adhere always to the simple truth. As, then, these volumes range over a wider expanse of IndiiUi ter- ritory than the former, so do they introduce new features of Indian life and manners. Regions un- visited, and now only partially explored, are pour- trayed as they ajjpeared to the first civilised in- truder in the wilderness. And the Author has endeavoured to give a description of the trapper's as well as the trader's life among the Indians ; both being replete with adventures : for while the trader has an advantage in that he has something to give or to exchange, the very tools of the trap[)er's craft produce his trouble ; the steel of his traps is precious metal to the Indian savage, with whom to plunder a white man is a virtue. Neither in this, nor in the preceding volume, has the Author been content with a bare narration of his own personal adventures. He has not omitted PREFACE. Vll to record any facts that came to liis knowledge re- specting the geography of the countries and the history of tlie settlements ; and from the rapidity with which events follow cacli other in new coun- tries, these memorials will soon become materials for a History of the On^gon. Tlie Pacific Fur Company, the earliest pioneer of civilisation on the Columbia, surrendered to a Britisli rival the fruits of three years' vigorous labour. The North-West Company, its rival, whose commercial greatness was only equalled by its poli- tical importance, has passed away ; after wielding for eight years a sovereignty from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. The Hudson's Bay Company, after ruling under higher authority, and for many more years than its rivals and predecessors, is now the taxed subject of a republic, which has arisen, as it were, from the ashes of the first o^ the three invaders of primeval barbarism. Under so many successive changes, the aboriginal tribes, once so formidable, are fast melting away ; the fur trade, the incentive to such great enterprises anc jrave deeds, has almost perished, and the plough is fiist following the axe. Churches are already fi !l Vl Vlll PREFACE. rising among villages, schools are multiplying, the l)ymn of peace has taken the place of the wild song of the savage ; and soon all traces of the past will be in the memorials which the pen has preserved. In committing his work to the press, the Author would say in conclusion, what he has written is fact and not fiction : real wild life, not romance. Jitd Jiircr Settlement, Fuj^ert's Land, Jane 1st, 1854. 1 »> CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. CHAPTER I. The firstgrand movement — Thcvoyagc — Usual precautions neglected — A man shot— Oakanagan — Parting of friends— Horse trading adventure — Troubles and trials — The knife: Life or death — A night-scene with Eyacktana — Beads, buttons, and rings — The restive horse — Scene at parting — Adventure of the two women — Grand Coul6, the wonder of the Oregon — Scenes at Fort George — Two Indians shot — Commotion among the natives— The * Isaac Todd' — Sunshine and cloud — Seven men drowned — The sagacious squaw — Miraculous escape — John Little's narrative — Remarks — China trade— My project of discovery — The Indian and the com- pass—Disappointments—Too much confidence in Indians — Smoking banquet— Arrive at Fort George . . Page 17 ' ' 'I < 4 l^i CHAPTER 11. Council — Result — Anxiety of the subordinates — Departure of the Brigade — Sanguine expectations — Bulky cargoes — Men and means — Airy projects — Tongue point — Gloomy prospects — Ca- yousc Indians— Disastrous conflict — Two Indians shot— The sandy island — Perilous situation of the whites— A bold step — Indians distrustful — Negotiation — Rocky Mountains — A boat X CONTENTS. lost— Forlorn party — Four men starved to death — Charettc mur- dered — Komarks — Parley with Ye-whcU-come-tetsa^ the chief — Story of the wolves— Ilorse^i killed — Wolves destroyed — The lost trap — The pursuit — Ravenous Molves — Their mode of attacking horses — Conflicting points — Perplexities at head quarters — Councils divided — Comparison hetween Indians on the cast and ■west side of the mountains — A hrief review of the characteristics of each section — Natives — Climates— Kesourccs — Hostilities of the Columbia Indians — The cause — Ceneral remarks— Cedar boats — Birch-rind canoes — Head quarters— Change of system — Iroquois trappers ...... Page 5i CHAPTER III. fl Debates — New system — Indignity of the manager — Interior bri- gade — A man drowned — Singular fatality — American ship — Captain lieynolds — Doctor Downie — Suicide — The schooner — Jacob, the llussian mutineer — Deserters — A party in disguise — Jacob among the Indians — His designs — He is dressed in a sijuaw's garment — Warehouse robbery — Jacob and his Indian associates — Alarms at Fort George — Plan for seizing Jacob by force — Armed party — Indian guide — A rogue surprised — St. ^Martin wounded —Jacob's banishment — North- West Company — Outrages — Ped Eiver affray — The 19th of June — Criminal proceedings — General remarks — !M'Kenzie's return to Columbia — M'Kenzie's reception — Growing difhculties-Two chiefs at issue — Peconciliation — The managing system — Bour- geois — Agents — Exclusive privilege — The bone of contention — Trapping expedition to the Wallamitte — Brush with the natives — Policy of the trappers— Failure of the expedition— Second trap- ping expedition — Three Indians shot — The expedition fivils — Eetrcat of the whites — Remarks — Negotiation — Embassy to the WalLamitte — Armed party — Indian habits— Flag — Ceremony of smoking — Peace concluded — River Wallamitte — 31'Kenzie at the Dalles — Indian miistake — Partiality for tobacco — Brigade CONTEXTS. XI stopped by ice — Policy of the wliitcs — Indian hospitality — The banquet — Second disaster — A boat broken — Con- fidence not misplaced — Fidelity of Shy-law-iti>. an Indian chief —Spring- operations — Increase of returns — Prospects briglitening-. Page 75 1 CHAPTER IV. Ship from England — Head quarters — Council — Peform coun- teracted — Shipping — Owhyhccs — Difficulties — Brigade leave Fort Ccorge — llemarks— Wallamittc — AVhitcs menaced — Arrows pointed -Cuns presented — Iroquois —Cascades— Indians nuuie- rous— Difliculties — Act of friendship — Tobacco treat — Little dog — AllVay — Hostile appearances — An Indian and his gun — Indian trickery — Peace oflering — Cautious measures — Fatigue of tlio party — Mode of encamping — Measures of defence — Portage regulations — Long narroAvs — Hostile appearances — Expedients — Tribute — The feathered herald rebuked — Portage — Indians muster strong — Confusion— Critical situation of the whites — Conjectures — The three desperadoes — M'Kenzic — Departure from the narrows — Tobacco otrering — Old system — Old habits — Spokane House — Pleasures of the wilderness— Spokane House venm AVallawalla — General remarks — X dead man alive — Anecdote 110 if ^^1 ml CHAPTER y. New quarter — Trip of discovery — General remarks — The object — Departure — Courses— Xew guide — Friendly Lake — Confidence iu our guide— Xew direction — Grisly-bear Piver — Beaver ravages — Wild animals — Bear's den — The lair — Dreary prospect — Eagle Hill — A man wounded — The guide's remarks — Arrival Xll CONTENTS. ) /i at the Rocky Mountains — Grand view — Size of the timber —Canoe Kivcr— The Elk— Prepare for our return— Thunder- storm — Indian superstitions— Pass Eagle Hill— Game abundant —Change our road — The fight— Eagle and Grouse— Conclusion of our journey — Result — General aspect of the country — Prospects— The new Express— Council at the Falls— At the Cascades — Fidelity of the natives — The point gained -Com- mercial views— Difficulties disregarded — Troubles —A hoi-se shot— Conduct of the Iroquois— The affray— Plots and plans — A^iews for extending the trade— Failure— Second attempt— Suc- cess among the tribes - Bear-hunting— Chief wounded — Conduct of the natives— Sympathy— The disappointment— Wolf-hunting —The whites— The lucky shot— Indian surprise -Chief and his horse — Fur trader's life — His recreations — Arrive at Fort George Pago 141 CHAPTER YL IP Vacillating conduct at Fort George —Decision at head quarters — Fort Nez Percys- My omu appointment — Fort George board of management — Departure of brigade — "Wallawalla — Departure of our friends — Forlorn hope— Conduct of the Indians — Chilling reception — The natives' conduct towards the whites — Descrip- tion of the place — Difficulties — Manojuvring of the whites — Resolutions of the Indians— Non-intercourse — Reconciliation — Tum-a-tap-um and his warriors— The chief's views — The great council — The ceremony of smoking — Natives yield — Whites gain their views — The selfish chief — Negotiation concluded — Favourable aspect — First Snake expedition — My own situa- tion — Neighbouring tribes — Favourable change— Discouraging rumours — Oskonoton's story and fate — Conduct of the Iro- quois — Natives murdered — Cowlitz expedition fails — The effect — The offended chief — Cruelties — How-how's conduct -Princess How-how — The marriage — The skirmish — Alarm— Confusion — CONTENTS. XIU How-ho^v■g departure — Wallamitte quarter — Conduct of the trap- pers — Crueltica — Wallamitte expedition — The effect— M'Kenzie's arrival — His adventures — Prospects in the Snake country — Animals — Lewis Hirer explored — M'Kenzie and his two men — Kitson's adventures — Horses stolen — The cl.an sweep — The pur- suit —The affray — A Snake shot — An Iroquois wounded — Horses recovered — Thieves caught — Arrival at M'Kenzie's camp — Snake returns — Two whites murdered — Eesult of Snake expedition — Favourable prospects— Conclusion . . . . Page 171 CHAPTER VII. I'' Perseverance rewarded — Change of policy — Kittson's return — Mode of building — Trading fort in the Indian countries — Fort Nez Perces — View of Fort Nez Perces — Change in the conduct of the natives — Our Snake friends— Precautions — M'Kenzie and his three men — Troublesome visitors — Perilous situation — A bold step — The powder-keg — Situation of the whites — Mysterious movement — The war- party — Manoeuvres— Hopeless situation of the whites — Indian attempts fail — Departure of the war-party — Two white men murdered — The hiding-place — Joyful meeting of friends — Leave Friendly Island — A savage rebuked — New dangers — The fishing camp — Distracted state of the countrj' — The second retreat for safety — The peace — Woody Point — Chief's remarks on the peace — The vhites leave their hiding-place a second time — M'Kenzie's views — A courier — Discouraging rumours — War-parties— The great battle — Snakes and Blackfect — Abandon Woody Point — Whites at their destination — Opera- tions of a trapping party — Watchfulness — The camp — A trapper's life — Fort Nez Perces' troubles — The seven dead bodies — Alarm- ing crowd — All hands at their post — Quinze'-sous — Phrenzy of the savages— Savage habits — Lamentation — Tum-a-tap-um the chief — Harangues — Peace-offering— Bodies removed — Second party — A savage in despair — The tumultuous m616e — Medicine XIV CONTENTS. ) man sliot— ^Murderer shot — Thrco men sliot— Great concourse — Whites take to their bastions— Guns pointed — Forbearance of the Avhites — Council —Smoking— Loud talking — Order restored — Prince, the wounded Indian— The gun — The axe — Indian perfidy — Prince and ^leloche — The outrage — Prince shot. Page 213 I CHAPTER VIII. Snake country— Preliminary remarks — Interview with the two great chicfrf — The Iroquoi.s again — Influence of Ihe chiefs- Good order — The three great sections of the Snake nation — Dog-eaters — Fish-eaters —liobbers — The mammoth camp — Men of size — Pee-eyc-em — The Snake Council —Peace-making — Eesult — The chief's remark on the war — The trembling Ban-at-tees— The land of profusion— Trading peculiarities of the Snakes— Importance of trifles — Chiefs views — Indians decamp —Whites change places — The great snow-storm — Whites outwitted — Indians at home — Cheap mode of wintering horses — Hodgcn's adventures — Ama-kctsa's conduct — Natural instinct — Pyramids of beaver — Chief's friendly conduct — Three Owhyhees murdered — Spring arrangements — Journey homeward — Anxieties at Fort Nez Forces — M'Kenzie's arrival — General remarks — Face of the country — Varied scenery — Mountains and valleys — The pilot knobs — Novelties — Sulphur streams — Hot and cold springs — Natural bridges— Subterraneous rivers — Great fish camp— Provi- dent habits — Delicate appetites — Economy of the Snakes — Horse-flesh a dainty —Native tobacco —Legend — Pottery — Snake ingenuity— A clumsy substitute for canoes— Manoeuvres of the Snakes to elude their pursuers— M'Kenzie's departure — North- Westers west of the mountains — Lawsuits — Result of the trials — New deed-poll— Dissolution of the North- West Company — The cflfect— Begin the world again— Fate of dependants— M'Kenzie's return — Leaves the country— Sketch of his character . .247 iraE^^esuBiiss CONTENTS. XV CHAPTEE IX. rrcliminary observations— Scenes in the Indian country—Reflec- tions— Canadians— Freemen— Habits— Charactcr—Owhyhces on the Columbia— Iroquois in the Indian country— Indian women- Half-breeds— Bourgeois, and his children— Remarks— The last relic- The Bourgeois in his light canoe— Hard travelling-Fort Nez Pcrces-The Avar chief-The war horse— Cavalcade— Treat- ment of slaves— Scalp dancing.— Aitendix : Vocabulary of the language— Table of the weather— Direction of the winds— De- grees of heat and cold p^g^ 284 kh m ) fi '^1 li ih m m "vrnmn , n.„. 4 Tin: FUR HUNTERS OF THE FAR WEST. ll' ! INTRODUCTION. In a work puLlislicd Ly the writer a few yeai-s ago,* lie traced the history of the Pacific Fur Company, tlie first commercial association established on the Avaters of the Oregon or Columbia River, through all the windings of its short-lived existence : an asso- ciation which promised so much, and accomplished so little ; the boldness of the undertaking, and the unyielding energy disj^laycd in the execution, ren- dered it deserving a better fate. But the vicissi- tudes of foituno, and an unbroken chain of adverse circumstances, from its commencement in 1810, contunied, till its premature downfall paved the way for a more successful rival in 1813, when the great Astor project, which had for its object the monopolisation of all the fur trade on the Con- tinent, yielded to the North- West Company. * Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia* Eiver, by Alexander lioss. B m .III :l PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER & C° LONDON, INTRODUCTION. In the present work, we propose taking up the subject of Oregon and the Kocky Mountains, begin- ning with Astor's rival, the North- West Company, from the time that it occupied the entire trade of the Oregon, till its final overthrow by another rival, the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1821. This wide field of commercial enterprise fell into the lap of the North-West Company almost without an effort ; for misfortunes alone, over which man had no control, sealed the doom of unfortunate Astoria. The first ship, called the Tonquln, em- fjloyed by the Astor Company, was cut off by the Indians on the north-west coast, and every soul on board massacred. The second, named the Be^ivev, was lost in unknown seos ; and the third, called the Larh, was upset in a gale 250 miles from the Sand- wich Islands, and became a total wreck ; and to complete the catalogue of disasters, in 1812 war broke out between England and the United States. Let us take a passing glance at the negotiations between the late Pacific Fur Company and the North- West Company, which were as follows : — The whole of the goods belonging to the fonner were delivered over to the latter at 10 per cent, on cost and charges. The furs on hand were valued at so much per skin. Thus, the wdiole sales amounted to 80,500 dollars, and bills of exchange, negotiable in Canada, were accepted in payment thereof ; at the same time, the name of Astoria, the great depot of ^ INTRODUCTION. 3 the Astor Compan}'-, situated at tlie mouth of the Columbiji, Wcis changed to Fort George. The above transactions, which changed the asj:>ect of affairs on the Oregon, took place on tlie 1 Gth of October, 1813. The earliest notice of any adventurer traversing these regions is that of Mr. Samuel Hearne, an officer in the service of the Hudson's B;iy Company, during the years 1709 and 1772. In liis third and last expedition, he started from Fort Prince of Wales, in 1770, and reached the mouth of the Copper Mine Kiver on the 17tli of July in the following year. The ice was then just beginning to break up round the shores of the Frozen Ocean. We need scarcely mention, that Mr. Hearne was here, far within the arctic circle, where the sun never sets at that season of the year. The next in- stance we have on record is that of Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, a ptutner of the North-West Company-, who, in the year 1789, performed his first expedi- tion of discovery across the Continent, from Montreal to the Hyperborean Sea, and again in 1793 to the Pacific Ocean. This enterprising adventurer did much to develope the inland resources of the country, and was personally known to the writer. In the early part of the present century, Frascr and Stuart, also two partners of the North-West Company, crossed the Continent, from the Atlantic to the Pjiclfic, still further south than their prede- cessors. One of the great streams of the far vrest B 2 i 'I •:i r'v' ' n l^xt ■ \j P 'It,' INTRODUCTION. still bears the name of " Eraser's River/' as a tribute to the memory of tlie first discoverer. A somewhat curious anecdote is told of this expedition. On reaching the Pacific, the Indians put on a bold and threatening aspect. The party had a small field- piece with them ; and to relieve the anxiety of the moment, by frightening the savages, the piece was loaded and fired oflf into the middle of the crowd ; but it is hard to say which party were most frightened by the discharge, for the gun burst and was blown to atoms ! Yet, strange as it may appear, no person was either killed or wounded by the accident. The momentary surprise, however, gave time to the party to shift their quarters, and make good their retreat. Indeed, to the spirit of enterprise diflfused among the fur traders, from the earliest days of the French down to the present time, we owe almost all that we know of these savage wilds ; j^et, with all their zeal and enterprise in the pursuit of game, they were always tardy in giving what they did know to the world ; not so much from selfish motives to conceal the truth, as from the difficulty, in many instances, of getting that truth made public. So far, then, the north has been more favoured than the far Avest, for no white man had as yet visited the Columbia to any extent : if we except Vancouver's survey of its entrance, in 1792, and the transitory visit of Lewus and Clarke in 1805, the writer himself and his associates were the first explorers of that distant quarter. INTRODUCTION. The North-West Coinp:iiiy, originally incorpo- rated in the year 1787, had l»y their accession of ten-itory an unlimited range from the Atlantic to the Pacific : they ruled from sea to sea; and as it became necessary to occupy the stations received from the Astor Company, they offered engage- ments to some of the partners, but not upon the same advantageous terms as they granted to their own people on the east side of the mountains ; nor did tliey hold out the same prospects of promotion to those who joined them on the west, and especially to those branded with the epithet " Yankee." Being, however, disappointed by the failure of tlie Astor concern, I refused to enter the service of the North-West Company on any other condition than that whicli included promotion, and as I was the only one that acted on this principle, they met my views and we came to terms ; so I became a north- wester. My promotion was guaranteed to take place in 1822, by a written document signed at head quarters ; while, in the meantime, I v/as ap* pointed to* the northern district, which, being a titled charge, was, of itself, a step towards pre- ferment. But here we must explain what is meant by a " titled charge," according to north-west nomenclature ; clerks have charge of posts, bourgeois of districts, and the ambition of the clerk is na- turally to become a bourgeois. The first step the north-westers took, after in- heriting their new acquisition, was to dispatch two «(.! ii ( I M I IXTllODUCTIOX. of their partners, and twenty of their men, in two boats, to convey the gratifying news to Fort Wil- liam, the chief depot of their inland trade on Lake Superior. Everything was done to dissuade Messrs. Keith and Alexander Stuart from undertaking so perilous .an adventure with so few men ; but to no purpose. They made light of the matter, giving us to understand that they were north-westers ! " We oi'e strong enough," said they, "to go through any part of the countr3'." Full of confidence in them- selves, they derided the danger, as they did our counsel. The journey began, and all went on well enough till they arrived at the p;Ort.age of the Cascades ; the first impediment Avas in ascending tlie river, distant 180 miles fi-om Fort George. Here the Indians col- lected in great numbers, as usual, but did not at- tempt anything until the people had got involved and dispersed in the portage ; they then seized the opportunity, drew their bows, brandished their lances, and pounced upon the gun-cases, powder- kegs, and bales of goods, at the place where Mr. Stuart was stationed. He tried to defend his post, but owing to the wet weather his gun missed fire several times, and before any assistance could reach him, he had received three ari'ows ; his gun had just fallen from his hand as a half-bred, named Finlay, came up and shot his assailant dead. By this time the people concentrated, and the Indians fled to their strongholds behind the rocks and trees. To save the property in this moment of alarm and con- INTRODUCTION. fusion wjis impossible; to save themselves, and carry off Mr. Stuart, was the first consideration ; they therefore made for their canoes with all haste, and embarked. Here it was found that one man was missing, and Mr. Keith, Avho was still on shore, urged tlie party strongly to wait a little ; but the people in the canoes called on Mr. Keith, in a tone of despair, to jump into the canoe, or else they would push off and leave him also ; being a reso- lute man, and not easily intimidated, he inunediately cocked his gun, and threatened to shoot the first man that moved. Mr. Stuart, who was faint from loss of blood, seeing Mr. Keith determined, and the men alarmed, beckoned to Mr. Keith to embark. The moment he jumped into the canoe, they pushed off and shot down the current. During this time Mr. Stuart suffered severely, and was very low, as his wounds could not then be examined ; when this was done, they discovered that the barbs of the a}.TOws were of iron, and one of them had struck on a stone pipe which he carried in his waistcoat pocket, to which fortunate circumstance he perhaps owed his life. The chief object of this expedition has been noticed ; but there was another which we shall just mention. A party of six men, under a Mr. Reid, had been fitted out by the Astor Company for the Snake country the year before, of which hitherto there had been no tidings: a part of the present expedition was to have gone in search of them ; \M i 8 INTRODUCTION. the unfortunate aflfair at the Cascades, however, put an end to the matter, and taught the north-westers that the lads of the Cascades did not respect their feathers. Thus terminated the first adventure of the North-West Company on the Columbia. It was afterwards discovered that Mr. Reid and his party were all murdered by the Indians. This disaster set the wliole north-west ma- chinery at Fort George in motion. Revenge for the insult, and a heavy retribution on the heads of the whole Cath-le-yach-e-yach nation was de- creed in a full council ; and for a whole week nothing was to be heard about the place but the clang of arms and the din of war. Every man worth naming was armed, and besides the ordinary arms and accoutrements, two great guns, six swivels, cutlasses, hand-grenades, and handcuffs, with ten days' provisions, were embarked ; in short, all the weapons and missiles that could be brought into action were collected and put in train for destroying the Indians of the Cascades, root and branch. Eighty-five picked men, and two Chinook in- terpreters, under six chosen leaders, were enrolled in the expedition. The command of it was tendered to Mr. M'Kenzie, who, however, very prudently declined ; merely observing that, as he was on the eve of leaving the country, he did not wish to mix himself up with north-west affairs, but that he would cheerfully go as a volunteer. The command then devolved on Mr. M'Tavish, and on the 20th i ii INTRODUCTION. of January, witli buoyant liearts and flags flying-, a fleet of ten sail conveyed the men to the fleld of action. On the third day they arrived safely, and cast anchor at Strawberry Island, near the foot of the rapids. On their way up, the name of this formidable armament struck such terror into the marauders along the river, that they fled to the fastnesses and hiding-places of the wilderness ; even the two Chinook interpreters could neither sleep nor eat, so grieved were they at the thoughts of the bloody scenes that were soon to be enacted. On the next morning, after the expedition came to anchor, the Indians were summoned to appear and give an account of their late conduct, and were required, if they wished for mercy, to deliver up at once all the property plundered from the expedition of Messrs. Keith and Stuart. The Cath-le-yach-d- yach chiefs, not the least intimidated by the hostile array before them, sent back an answer, — " The whites have killed two of our people, let them deliver up the murderers to us, and we will deliver to them all the property in our possession." After returning this answer, the Indians sent off all their wives and children into the thick woods ; then arm- ing themselves, they took their stand behind the trees and rocks. M'Tavish then sent the inter- preters to invite them to a parley, and to smoke the pipe of peace. The Indians returned for answer, that " When the whites had paid according to Indian law for the two men they had killed, I ( K i 10 INTRODUCTION. they would smoke the pipe of peace, but not till then. Their wives and children were safe, and as for themselves tliey were prepared for the worst." Thus little progress was made during the first day. Tlie next day the interpreters were sent to sound them again. Towards noon a few stragglers and sl.a\'es approached the camp and delivered up a small parcel of cloth and cotton, torn into pieces and scarcely worth picking up, with a message from the chiefs : — " We have sent you some of the property ; deliver us up the murderers, and we will send the rest.'^ Some were for hanging up the Indians at once ; others for detaining them. At length it was resolved to let them go. In the even- ing, two of the principal chiefs surrendered them- selves to M'Tavish, bringing also a small parcel of odds-and-ends, little, better than the last. Being interrogated as to the stolen property, they denied being present at the time, and had cunning enough to make their innocence appear, and also to convince M'Tavish that tliey were using their utmost in- fluence to bring the Indians to terras, and deliver up the property. A council was then held to decide on the fate of the prisoners. Some were, as in the former case, for hanging them up ; others for taking them down to Fort George in irons. The council was divided, and at last it was resolved to treat the prisoners liberally and let them go : they never re- turned again ; and thus ended the negotiations of the second day. INTRODUCTION, 11 Tlie third day the interpreters were at work again ; Lufc instead of making any favourable im- prcsfiion on the Indians, they were told, that if they returned again without delivering up the murderers, tliey would be fired upon. During this day, the Indians came once or twice out to the edge of tlie woods. Sonic were for firing the great gims where they were seen in the largest numbers ; others, more ardent, but less calculating, were for storming their haunts, and bringing the matter to a speedy issue. Every movement of the whites was seen by the Indians, but not a movement of the Indians could be discerned by the whites ; and the day passed away without any result. Next morning, it was discovered that some of the Indians, lurking about, had entered the camp, and carried off two guns, a kettle, and one of the men's bonnets ; the Indians were seen occasionally flying from place to place, now and tlien whooping and yelling, as if some plan of attack were in contemplation. This was a new symptom, and convinced the whites that they were getting more bold and daring in propor- tion as their opponents were passive and undecided. These circumstances made the whites reflect on their own position. The savages, sheltered behind the trees and rocks, might cut them all off without being seen ; and it was intimated by the interpreters that the Indians might all this time be increasing their numbers by foreign auxiliaries. "Whether true or false, the suggestion had its effect in determining ii f', %' I ,ii if'j 12 IXTRODUCTION. tlie wliitcs that they stood upon dangerous ground, and that the sooner they left it the better. They therefore, without recovering tlie property, firing a gun, or securing a single prisoner, sounded a retreat, and returned home on the nhith day, having made matters ten times worse than they were before. This warlike expedition was turned into ridicule by the Cath-le-yach-d-yachs, and had a very bad eflfect on the Indians generally. On their way back, some were so ashamed that they turned off towards the Wallaniitte to hide their disgrace, others remained for some days at the Cowlitz, and M'Tavish himself reached Fort George in the night ; and thus ended this inglorious expedition. It ought to be observed, that the nature of the ground along the Cascades, on both sides of the river, is such as to afford no position secure from attack or surprise ; and it showed a manifest want of judgment in an Indian trader to e:!03e his people in such a dangerous situation, where the In- dians might have way-laid and cut them off to a man, and that without quitting their fastnesses ; whereas the whole difficulty might have been easily obviated by a very simple stratagem on the part of the whites, who might have quietly secured three or four of the principal men as hostages, which would have soon settled the whole affair, without noise or any warlike demonstration. The north-westers were prone to find fault with the acts of their predecessors ; yet, with all this INTRODUCTION. 13 fault-finding, thoy had not laid down any system or plan to guide their future operations, cither with respect to the coast or inland trade : this appeared inexplicable to us, and wc waited in anxious expec- tation to see what time would bring forth. One day, as I was musing over affairs, Mr. M'Donald, called the " Bras-croche," the gentleman in charge of the Columbia, called me into his room, and after some trivial observations, said, " Well, I suppose you have heard that I intend to leave the country this spring?" " No," replied I, " I have heard nothing of it." " But," resumed he, "you will have heard that the spring brigade is to leave in a few days for tlie interior." " Oh, yes," said T, " I have heard of that." "Yes," continued he, "we intend to start in a few days, and I shall leave the country. I could have wished to have some settled plan for carrying on the Columbia trade ; but there are so many conflicting opinions on that subject, that we have not been able to come to any decision ; so that I fear the trade must go on the best way that it can, for this year yet." " Then," said I, " you do not approve of the system we have been following (meaning the Americans') : it appeared to me to work very well." He shook his head and smiled, but said nothing. Then suddenly turning to the subject of the voyage, he said, " Will there be any danger in getting along ? our party will be strong." Mr. M'Donald, having come out by sea, had never ascended or descended the waters of the Columbia. V ,, vti (f' i •'t I I !!" U IXTnODUCTIOX. " A strong party, with the usual precautions," said I, "will carry you through with safety: compared with former years the voyage is mere holiday- work." At the words " usual i)recautions," lie smiled. " Do you think," he asked, " that north- westers do not know, as well as the Americans, how to travel among Indians?" "The north-westers/' observed I, "kiio\v how to travel among the Indians of Athabasca and the north ; but the Americans know better than north-westers how to travel among the Indians of Columbia." Continuing the subject, he remarked, " The Indians along the com- munication must be taught to respect the whites : the rascals have not been well broken in. You will soon see a specimen of our mode of travelling among Indians, and what efiect it will produce." "Well, I shall be glad to see it," said I; "but I hope it will not be such a specimen as was exhibited at the Cascades, nor produce the same results." On my mentioning the word " Cascades," his cheeks red- dened, and he appeared somewhat nettled ; but, re- collecting hhnself, he changed the subject, and put the question, " Where are the worst Indians along the route V To this I replied, that the worst In- dians are those at the Dalles, called Wy-am- pams or gamblers, some sixty miles beyond the Cascades ; but with a strong party and good night- watch there would be nothing to fear. He next inquired, how far the Americans had penetrated to the north. "To the island of Sitka," was my reply. I ! i ; II INTRODUCTION. l.-) along tt Iii- " And how fur to the south ? " inquired he again. "To tlie frontiers of California," I answered. He tiien ftsked if "wc had been as far east jus the Rocky ^[ountjuns. To "whicli I answered, that we had, and crossed them too. " The Anierictms," he reniarktd, " have been very < itorprising." " We are called Americans," said 1, "but there were very few Ame- ricans among us — wc were all Scotchmen like your- selves : I do not mean that wo were the more enterprising for that." On the subject of travelling, he next inquired if we invariably used horses. I told him that no horses were used along the coast, that the natives kept none, nor would the thick forests admit of their beini; used ; but that tliroudiout the interior all journeys were performed on horseback. " You must," continued he, " have travelled over a great jwrt of the country? " " Yes, we did," I replied ; " it has often been remarked, that before wc were a year on the Columbia, we had travelled, in vaiious direc- tions, more than ten thousand miles." "That is a reproach to us," said he, " for we have been here upwards of six months, and, with but one excep- tion, have scarcely been six miles from our fort gates." Pie then asked me, what I thought of the manner in which the Americans carried on the trade with the Indians. "I always admired it," answered I ; " they treated them kindly, traded honestly, and never introduced si)irituous liquors among them." "Ha!" he exclaimed: "but was I li I "' 16 INTRODUCTION. I! it not a losing business V I admitted that it was ; and added, Astor's under-hand policy, and the war breaking out at the time it did, ruined all. But, I remarked, "The countr}'^ is rich in valuable furs, and the north-west will now inherit those riches." " Time will telV was liis only answer. After alluding briefly to our trials, hardships, and ex- perience on the Columbia, " Well," said lie, " I sujipose we shall have to do the best we can, as you did, for tliis year at least, and follow the system pursued by the Americans.'' He then requested me to make out an estimate of men and goods, for tlie different posts of the interior. i I CHAPTER I. The first grand movement — The voyage— Usual precautions neglected — A man shot— Oakanagan — Parting of friends— Horse trading adventure — Troubles and trials — The knife: Life or death— A night-scene with Eyacktana — Beads, buttons, and rings — The restive horse — Scene at parting -Adventure of the two women — Grand Coule, the wonder of the Oregon— Scenes at Fort fJcorge — Two Indians shot — Commotion among the natives— The ' IsiWc Todd'— Sunshine and cloud— Seven men drowned — The sagacious squaw — Miraculous escape — John Little's narrative — Remarks — China trade — !My project of discovery — The Indian and the com- pass — Disappointments— Too much confidence in Indians — ■ Smoking banquet— Arrive at Fort CJeorgc. On the sixth day after my conversation witli Mr. M'Donald, the brigade took its departure for tlie interior. It was the first grand movement of the North-West Company on the Columbia, On this occtision, one hundred and twenty -four men started, exclusive of the people of the late Astor Company, who were on their Avay to Canada by land. The whole embarked in e fj with nen in k. inagaii, isscows Ito the ^arn us zealous . My jep for roach, th my |ir own lousm " 3k, you ise, for ny life lo less regret with INDIAN CA^IP IN EYAKEMA VALLEY. 21 no less reluctance we proceeded. The second day after our friends left us, we entered the Eyakenia Valley — " The beautiful Eyakenia Valley" — socalled l»y the whites. But, on the present occasion, there was nothing either beautiful or interesting to us ; for we had scarcely advanced three miles when a camp in the true Mameluke style presented itself; a camp, of which we could see the beginning but not the end ! It could not have contained less than 3000 men, exclusive of women and children, and treble that number of horses. It was a grand and imposing sight in the wilderness, covering more than six miles in every direction. Councils, root- gathering, hunting, horse-raci'^ •', foot-racing, gam- bling, singing, dancing, drumniing, yelling, and a thousand other things, which I cannot mention, wei'e going on around us. The din of men, the noise of women, the scream- ing of children, the tramping of horses, and howl- ing of dogs, was more than can well be described. Let the reader picture to himself a great city in an uproar — it will afford some idea of our position. In an Indian camp you see life without disguise ; the feelings, the passions, the propensities, as they ebb and flow in the savage breast. In this field of savage glory all was motion and commotion ; we advanced through groups of men and bands of horses, till we reached the very centre of the camp, and there the sight of the chiefs' tents admonished ■1 ^ i m pi! ' I' ) W. ■in 1 : s ,1 22 HOSTILE GREETINGS AXD HORSE DEALIXO, US to dismount auvl [)ay tliein our respects, as we depended on them for our protection. Our reception \vas cool, the ciiiefs ■vvcre hostile and sullen, they saluted us in no very flatterin':^' accents. " These are the men," said they, " who kill our relations, the people who have caused us to mourn." And here, for the first time, I regretted we had not taken advice in time, and returned witli the couriers ; for the genoi-al aspect of things was against us. It was evident we stood on slippery ground : we felt our weakness. In all sudden and unexpected rencontres with hostile Indians, the first impulse is generally a tremor or sensation of fear, hut that soon wears off; it was so with myself at this moment, for after a short interval I nerved myself to encounter the Avorst. The moment we dismounted, we were suiTounded, and the savages, giving two or three war-whoops and yells, drove the animals we had ridden out of our sight ; this of itself was a hostile movement. We had to judge from appearances, and be guided by cii'cumstances. My first care was to try and direct their attention to something new, and to get rid of the temptation there was to dispose of my goods ; so without a moment's delay, I commenced a trade in horses ; but every horse I bought during that and the following day, as well as those we had brought with us, were instantly driven out of sight, in the midst of yelling and jeering : nevertheless, I A PLAN FOR AN ESCAPE. 23 continued to trade wliile an article remained, put- ting the best face on things I could, and takijig no notice of their conduct, as no insult or violence had as yet Leen offered to ourselves ]xrsonally. Two days and nights had now elapsed fciince our arrival, without food or sleep ; the Indians refused us the former, our own anxiety deprived us of the latter. During the third day I discovered that the two women were to have been either lulled or taken from us and made slaves. So surrounded were we for miles on every side, that we could not stir unobserved ; yet we had to devise some means for their escape, and to get them clear of the camp was a task of no ordinary difficulty and danger. In this criticiil conjuncture, however, something had to be done, and that without delay. One of them had a child at the breast, which increased the difficult}''. To attempt sending them back by the road they came, would have been sacrificing them. To attempt an unknown path through the rugged mountains, however doubtful the issue, appeared the only pro- spect that held out a glimpse of hope ; therefore, to this mode of escape I directed their attention. As soon as it was dark, they set out on their for- lorn adventure, without food, guide, or protection, to make their way home, under a kind Providence! " You are to proceed," said I to them, " due north, cross the mountains, and keep in that direction till you fill! on the Pisscows River ; take the first canoe you find, and proceed with all diligence down to it) 1^' ■. 'V V i I . 'i*^ i . U5' « j'I'l.i. I nil & 'I I! u 24 SUC'CKSSFUL ESCAPE OF THE WOMEN. tlie mouth of it, and there aw.iifc our arrival. But if we are not there on the fourth day, you may proceed to Oakanagan, and tell your story." With these instructions we parted ; and with but little hopes of our ever meeting again. I had no sooner set about getting the women off, than the husbands expressed a wish to accompany them ; the desire was natural, yet I had to oppose it. This state of things distracted my attention : my eyes had now to be on my own people as well as on the Indians, as I was apprehensive they would desert. " There is no hope for the women by going alone," said the husbands, " no hope for us by remaining here : we miglit as well be killed in the attempt to escape, as remain to be killed here." " No," said I, " by re- maining here we do our duty ; by going, we should be deserting our duty." To this remonstrance they made no reply. The Indians soon perceived that they had been outwitted. They turned over our baggage, and searched in every hole and corner. Disappointment creates ill-humour : it was so with the Indians. They took the men's guns out of their hands, fired them off at their feet, and then, with savage laughter, laid them down again ; took their hats off their heads, and after strutting about with these for some time, jeeringty gave them back to their owners : all tliis time they never interfered with me, but I felt that every insult offered to my men was an indirect insult offered to myself. The day after the women went off, I ordered one THE KNIFE: LIFE Oil DEATH. 25 of tl» to try jukI cook 4 something for us ; for liitlicrto wo had catou nothing since our arrival, except a few raw roots which we managed to get un- observed. Dut the kettle was no sooner on the fire than five or bix spears bore off, in savage triumph, the contents : they even emptied out the water, and threw the kettle on one side ; and this was no sooner done than thirty or forty ill-favoured wretches fired a volley in the embers before us, which caused a cloud of smoke and ashes to ascend, darkenins: the air around us : a strong hint not to put the kettle any more on the fire, and we took it. At this time the man who had put the kettle on the fire took the knife with which he had cut the venison to lay it by, when one of the Indians, called Eyacktana, a bold and turbulent chief, snatched it out of his hand ; the man, in an angry tone, demanded his knife, saying to me, " I '11 have my knife from the villain, life or death." " No," said I. The chief, seeing the man angry, threw down his robe, and grasping the knife in his fist, with the point downwards, raised his arm, making a motion in advance as if he intended using it. The crisis had now arrived ! At this moment there was a dead silence. The Indians were flocking in from all quarters : a dense crowd surrounded us. Not a moment was to be lost ; delay would be fatal, and nothing now seemed to remain for us but to sell our lives as dearly as pos ■i! I k (\ :■;! !l' 26 AN EXCHANGE OF KNIVES. si\)le. With this impression, grasping a pistol, I advanced a step towards the villain who held the knife, with the fiiii duterniination of putting an end to his career before any of us slioiild fall ; but while in the act of lifting my foot and moving my arm, a second idea flashed across my mind, ad- monishing me to soothe, and not provoke, the Indians, that Providence might yet make a way for us to escape : this thought saved the Indian's life, and ours too. Instead of drawing the pistol, as I in- tended, I took a knife from my belt, such as travel- lers generally use in this country, and presented it to him, saying, " Here, my friend, is a chief's knife, I give it to you ; that is not a chief's knife, give it back to the man." Fortunately, he took mine in his hand ; but, still sullen and savage, he said nothing. The moment 'vas a critical one ; our fate hung as by a thread : I shall never forget it ! All the bystanders had their eyes now fixed on the chief, thoughtful and silent as he stood ; we also stood motionless, not knowing what a moment might bring forth. At last the savage handed the man his knife, and turning mine round and round for some time in his hands, turned to his people, holding up the knife in his hand, exclaimed, " She- augh Me-yokat Waltz " — Look, my friends, at the chief's knife : these words he repeated over and over again. He was delighted. The Indians flocked round him : all admired the toy, and in the excess of his joy he harangued the multitude EYACKTANA THE CHIEF. 27 istol, I eld the ing an 11; but ing my id, ad- ndiaus, r us to fo, and IS I in- travel- snted it s knife, fe, give mine in le said Dur fate t! All on tbe 6 also iioment ed tlie round people, " She- at the er and ndians and in Ititude in our favour. Fickle, indeed, are savages ! They were now no longer enemies, but friends ! Several others, following Eyaektana's example, harangued in turn, all in favour of the -whites. This done, the great men squatted themselves down, the pipe of peace -was called for, and while it was going round and round the smoking circle, I gave each of the six princi])al chiefs a small paper-cased looking-glass and a little vermilion, .as a present ; and in return, they presented me with two horses and twelve beavers, while the women soon brought us a variety of eatables. This sudden change regulated my movements. Indeed, I might say the battle was won. I now made a speech to them in turn, and, as many of them understood the language I spoke, I asked them what I hould say to the great white chief when I got home, when he asks me where are all the horses I bought from you. What shall I say to him ? At this question it was easy to see that tneir pride was touched. " Tell him," said Eyack- tana, " that we have but one mouth, and one ^ 'ord ; all the horses you have bought from us are yours ; they shall be delivered up." Tliis was just what I wanted. After a little counsellinor amonsf them- selves, E^'acktana was the first to speak, and he undertook to see them collected. By this time it was sun-down. The chief then mounted his horse, and desired me to mount mine and accompany him, telling one of his sons to \\ ii H|l I |i 1 28 A NIGHT SCENE. I I i!' lit' ' ' i hi ill t < )h 1! ii take iny inon and jiropcrty iiiuler his diar<(o till our return. Being acquainted with Indian habits, I knew there would he repented calls upon my purse, Ko I put some trinkets into my pocket, and wo started on our nocturnal adventure ; which I considered hazardous, but not hopeless. Such a night avc had ! The chief harangued, travelled and harangued, the whole night ; the peo[)le replied. We visited every street, alley, liole and corner of the camp, which we ti'aversed lengthway, crossway, east, west, south, and north, going from grouj) to group, and the call was "Deliver up the horses." Here was gambling, there scalp-dancing ; laughter in one place, mourn- ing in another. Crowds were passing to and fro, whooping, yelling, dancing, dmnnning, sing- ing. Men, w^omen, and children were huddled to- gether ; flags flying, horses neighing, dogs howling, chained bears, tied wolves, grunting and growling, all pell-mell among the tents ; and, to complete the confusion, tlie night was dark. At the end of each harangue the chief would approach me, and Avhisper in my ear, " She-augh tamtay enim " — I have spoken well in your favour — a hint for me to reward his zeal by giving him something. This was repeated constantly, and I gave him each time a string of beads, or two buttons, or two rings. 1 often thought he repeated his harangues more fre- quently than was necessary ; but it answered his purpose, and I had no choice but to obey and pay. n'»i UFADS AND IIUTTONS : HORSES SAFK. 0() •v wiing, 1 111 pie te :l end of e, and \-^ i" I 'E me to This , '.'-'srH 1 time -ml js. 1 •e fie- ld his J pay. '.'^n^^^l At dnyH;,'ht we got hj.ck ; my people and pro- perty were safe; and in two liours after my 8.> horses were delivered up, and in oiu- possession. I was now convinced of the chiefs influence, and had f(ot so well into his good gi'aces with my beads, buttons, and rings, tlmt I lu)ped we were out of all our troubles. Our business beiiii"' done, I ordered my men to tie up and pn^paro for Ijomo, wijieli was glad tidings to them. With all this favourable change, we were much em])arrassed and annoyed in our preparations to start. The savages intenupted us every moment. They jeered the men, frightened the horses, and kept handling, snapping, and firing ofl* our guns ; asking for this, that, and the other thing. The men's hats, pipes, belts, and knives were constantly in their hands. They wished to see everything, and every- thing they saw they wished to get, even to the buttons on their clothes. Their teasing curiosity had no bounds ; and every delay increased our difficulties. Our patience was put to the test a thousand times ; but at last we got ready, and m\' men started. To amuse the Indians, however, till they could get fairly off, I invited the chiefs to a parley, which I put a stop to as soon as I thought the men and horses had got clear of the camp. I then prepared to follow them, when a new diffi- culty arose. In the hurry and bustle of starting, my people had left a restive, awkward brute of a horse for me, wild as a deer, and as full of latent f!!t i I i ,-i. ..< ill li iil '!l.!t im m ■\i'\ ill' U ii^ ii:' 30 TilE RESTIVE HORSE, MY DEPARTURE. tricks as lie was wild. I mounted and dismounted at least a dozen times ; in vain I tried to make him advance. He reared, jumped, and plunged ; but refused to w^alk, trot, or gallop. Every trial to make liim go was a failure. A young conceited fop of an Indian, thinking he could make more of liini than I could, jumped on his back ; the horse reared and plunged as before, when, instead of slackening the bridle as he reared, he reined it tighter and tighter, till the horse fell right over on his back, and almost killed the fellow. Here Eyacktana, with a frown, called out, " ICap-sheesh she-eam " — the bad horse — and gave me another ; and for the generous act I gave him my belt, the only article I had to spare. But although the difiiculties I had with the horse were fjallincr enouofh to me, they proved a source of great anmsement to the Indians, who enjoyed it with roars of laughter. Before taking my leave of Eyacktana, it is but jus- tice to say that, with all his faults, he had many good qualities, and I was under great obligations to him. I now made the be st of my way out of the camp, and to make up for lost time, took a short cut ; but for many miles could see nothing of my people, and began to be apprehensive that they had been waylaid and cut off. Getting to the top of a high ridge, I stopped a little to look about me, but could see nothing of them. I had not been many minutes there, however, before I perceived three horsemen coming down an adjacent hill at full tilt. ^ ..i lountetl 3 make unged ; trial to nice i ted more of le horse ead of ined it )ver on Here )-slieesli nother ; »elt, the gh the enougli iient to ughter. )Ut jus- ly good him. of the short of my |ey had ]) of a e, but many three .1 tilfc. FRIKNDLY INDIANS. 31 Taking them for enemies, I descended the height, swam my horse across a river at the bottom of it, and taking shelter behind a rock, dismounted to wait my pursuers. There I primed my rifle anew, and said to myself, " I am sure of two shots, and my pistols will be more than a match for the other." The moment tlioy got to the opposite bank, I made signs for them to keep back, or I would fire on them ; but my anxiety was soon removed by their calling out, " As- nack-shee- lough, as-nack-shee- lough" — your friends, your friends. These friendly fellows had been all the time lurking about in anxious suspense, to see what would become of us. Two of them were the very couriers who had, as already stated, strongly tried to turn us back. I was overjoyed at this meeting ; yet still anxious, as they had seen nothing of my men, to find whom we all set oft* and came up with them a little before sun-down. When we first discovered them, they were driving furiously ; but all at once the horses stood still. I suspected something, and told the Indians to remain behind, while I alone went on to see what was the matter ; when, as I had ex- pected, seeing four riders following them at full gallop, they took us for enemies, as I liad done before, and h'ft the horses to take up a position of de- fence behind the trees, where they might receive us ; and we should have met with a warm reception, for M'Kay, although young, was as brave as a lion. But they were soon agreeably surprised, and the Jl jk»' I I! 'III'! |::h 'i':'i' ^W !''' ii,, •i'iil !|.M i! ' * 32 A FORTUNATE MEETING. matter as soon explained. I then made signs for the Indians to come forward. The moment we all joined together, we alighted, changed horses, and drove on until midnight, when we took shelter in a small thicket of woods, and passed the night with our guns in our hands. At dawn of day we again set off; and at three o'clock in the afternoon reached the banks of the Columbia, some six miles beyond the mouth of the Pisscows River, where we considered ourselves out of danger. I then started on a-head, in com- pany with the friendly Indians, to see if the two women had arrived ; and as good luck would have it, we found them with a canoe ready to ferry us across. They had reached the place about an hour before us ; and we will give our readers a brief outline of their adventures. On leaving us, instead of taking directly to the mountains, they, in the darkness of the night, bridled two of the Indians' horses, and rode them for several hours, till they were far beyond the camp ; but as soon as it was daylight, they turned the horses adrift, and entered the mountains on foot. In the hurry of starting, they had forgot to take a fire, steel, or anything to make fire with, and had been three days and nights without food or fire. A short time, however, before I had reached them, they had met some friendly Indians who had ministered to their wants. During the four days of their pilgrimage they rode 13 miles, travelled m'kay's accident. 33 night, 5-i, and paddled G6, making in all 138 miles. We now hasten to resume our narrative. In a short time the two men arrived with all the horses ; but could give no account of M'Kay. I therefore immediately sent them back with an Indian in search of him, while I and the other Indians were occupied in passing over the horses ; for during high water, the Pisscows River is very broad at its mouth. Some time after dark the men arrived with the news tliat they had found M'Kay, lying some distance from the road in an almost lifeless state, and unable either to ride or be carried. In this state of things I had no alter- native but to send back the two men with two Indians, to have him brought in the canoe. About midnight t , y all arrived ; poor M'Kay was in a very lov, .. 1 dangerous state, having by some mishap which he could not well explain, dislo- cated his hip-joint ; after much trouble I got it re- placed again, and he gradually came round ; but as he could neither ride nor walk, I was reduced to the necessity of hiring two of the Indians to paddle him home in the canoe. Meanwhile, the two men, women, and myself continued our jour- ney, and reached Oakanagan in safety, after an absence of seventeen days ; but the Indians only got there with M'Kay four days after us, and from the hot weather and hardness of the canoe he suffered very much. The limb had again got out of joint, and was so much swollen that it resisted all my D m !i 11 til - 1 14 il! 'ill I I i. «l k u i ■'; r 11 34 GRAND COULE a efforts to get it reduced, so that he never got the better of it, but remained lame till the day of his death. Thus terminated one of the most trying and hazardous trips I ever experienced in the country. As soon as Mr. M'Kay was out of danger, I left hiin, and set off with all haste to Fort Spokane, distant about 160 miles south-east from Oakana- gan, with 55 of our horses. On our way, both going and coming, we made a short stay at a place called the Grand Coule, one of the most romantic, picturesque, and marvellously-formed chasms west of the Kocky Mountains. If you glance at the map of Columbia, you will see, some distance above the great Forks, a barren plain, extending from the south to the north branch of that magnificent stream ; there, in the direction of nearly south and north, lies the Grand Coule, some 80 or 100 miles in length. No one travelling in these parts ought to resist paying a visit to the wonder of the west. Without, however, being able to account for the cause of its formation, we shall j^roceed to give a brief description of this wonderful chasm, or channel, as it now is, and perhaps has been since the creation. The sides, or banks, of the Grand Coule are for the most part formed of basalt rocks, in some places as high as 150 feet, with shelving steps, formed like stairs, to ascend and descend, and not unfrequently vaults, or excavated tombs, as if cut m THE WONDER OF THE OREGON. 35 jot the of his trying in the nger, I pokane, )akana- Y, both a place >m antic, west of jhe map )ove the •om the rnificent nth and miles ought le west, br tlie to give ism, or Q since are for 1 some steps, nd not if cut througli tlio solid rocks, like the dark and porous catacombs of Keif. The bottom, or bed, deep and broad, consists of a conglomerate of sand and clay, hard and smooth where not inten'upted by rocks. The whole presents in every respect the appearance of the deep bed of a great river or lake, now dry, scooped out of the level and barren plain. The sight in many places is truly magnificent : while in one place the solenm gloom forbids the wan- derer to advance, in another the prospect is lively and inviting, the ground being thickly studded with ranges of columns, pillars, battlements, turrets, and steps above steps, in every variety of shade and coloui'. Here and there, endless vistas and subter- raneous labyrinths add to the beauty of the scene ; and what is still more singular in this arid and sandy region, cold springs are frequent ; yet there is never any water in the chasm, unless after recent rains. Thunder and lightning are known to be more frequent here than in other parts ; and a rumbling in the e.'irth is sometimes heard. According to Indian tradition, it is the abode of evil spirits. In the neighbourhood there is neither hill nor dale, lalv(^ nor mountain, creek nor rivulet, to give variety to the surrounding aspect. Altogether it is a charming a^ssemblage of picturesque ol)jects for the admirer of nature. It is the wonder of the Oregon. o We shall now digress for a short space, and return to Fort George. In 1811, three men belonging to the Pacific Fur Company had been D 2 U \' \'' u I r (I 36 TWO MURDERERS SHOT. M <' I Ul,h murdered by the natives ; but as the murderers could not be traced out, the deed was never avenged. We, however, had no sooner taken our departure for the interior, than the murderers considered it un- necessary to conceal the deed any longer : since the "Americans," as we were called, had left the country, they thought all was safe, and consequently joined their relations at Fort George. Their return to the neighbourhood had been made known to the whites, who, in order to make an example of them, and strike terror into evil-doers, wished to appre- hend them. For some time these natives contrived to elude their vigilance. The whites, however, were not to be foiled in their attempt to get hold of them. To attain the desired end they were obliged to have recourse to some of the friendly Indians, who soon found out the secret haunts of the murderers, hunted them up, and delivered them into their hands. Three were implicated, and found guilty of the murder, on Indian evidence, and were con- demned to be shot. Capital punishment was in- flicted upon two of them ; but the third was par- doned and set at liberty. The conduct of the murderers may serve to throw some light on theii' knowledge of right and wrong, and on the charac- ter of these Indians generally. The three villains fled towards the south as soon as they had com- mitted the deed, nor did they ever return, or make their appearance in that quarter, until they heard that the " Americans " had left the country. M r»l HOSTILITY OF THE INDIANS. 37 •4' The punisliment of the offenders, however, gave great offence to many of the surrounding tribes, who thought tliat the nortli-westers had no right to kill their relations. The deed not being com- mitted in their day, nor on their own people, they said the act on their part was mere cruelty, arising from hatred of the Indians ; and that in conseqiv^nce they must be their enemies. Jealousy had also its influence : seeing that those Indians friendly to the whites had been so liberally rewarded for their zeal in apprehending the criminals, others were dis- pleased that they had not come in for a share of the booty. The Indians took up arms, and threat- ened to expel the whites from the country. This manifestation of hostility on the part of the natives gathered strength daily, and kept the whites in constant alarm ; more especially as there were but few of them to resist so formidable a combination : it even threatened for a time the security of the North-West Company's possessions on the Columbia. In the midst of this hostile flame, as good for- tune would have it, the long-expected ship, Isaac Todd, from London, arrived, and cast anchor in front of Fort George, with ample supplies both of men and means. Her seasonable appearance struck such awe into the rebellious savages that, partly through fear and partly in anticipation of the good things to come, they sued for peace, which was granted ; and all became quiet and tranquil once iiii .' 1 I ii I u r 38 THE 'ISAAC TODD' ARRIVES. more. The Isaac Todd's presence shed a mo- mentary gleam of light over the north-west affaii's : in short, gave a new impulse to all their measures in the far west. After a short stay at the Columbia, smoothing down all difficulties with the Indians, and taking on board the furs and peltries belonging to the late American adventurers, the vessel sailed for Canton. The joy which her timely arrival caused was but of short duration, and it had SC9 'cely time to be announced in anotlier ex- press to Fort William,* when again the aspect of affairs was clouded by a sad misfortune. On the 22nd of May, some time after the arri- val of the Isaac Todd, a boat containing Messrs. Donald M'Tavish and Alexander Henry, two partners of long standing and high reputation in the service, with six men, was swamped, all hands perishing, in crossing the river, with the exception of one man. Although the accident took place in broad daylight, and in front of the fort, the cir- cumstance was not perceived or known for some hours after, when John Little, the man who was saved, arrived at the fort, and communicated the intelligence. We shall give the sad tale in his own words. " We pushed from the wharf,'' said John Little, .s-v i * Fort William waa the principal depot of the North- West Com- pany, on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, and is situated on the north shore of Lake Superior, in lat. 48° 24' N., and long. 89° 23' W. BOAT SWAMPED FIVE LIVES LOST. •^.9 " at five o'clock in the afternoon, the wind blowing a gale at the time, and the tide settuig in. Tlie boat was ballasted with stones ; we were eight on board, and there wjis a heavy surf about two miles out in the stream ; she filled, and sank like a stone. A terrible sljriek closed the scone. The top of the mast was still above the surface of the vater ; I got hold of it, but the fu'st or second swell swept me away. In a moment nothing was to be seen or heard but the rolling waves and whistling winds. Jack, a young sailor lad, and I took to swinnuing, and with gi'eat exertions reached a dry sand-bank in the channel, about three-quarters of a mile a-head of us ; but the tide flowing at the time, and forced by the gale, soon set us afloat. Here we shook hands, bade each other farewell, and took to swimming again. At the distance of a mile we reached another flat sand-bank ; but the tide got there nearly as soon as ourselves, and we were again soon afloat. Jack was much exhausted, and I wiis little better ; and the wet and cold had so benumbed us that we had scarcely any feehng or strength. We now shook hands again, anxiously looking for relief towards the fort. Here poor Jack began to cry like a child, and refused for some time to let go my hand. I told him to take courage ; and pointing to a stump a-head of us, said to him, 'If we get there we shall be safe/ Then bidding each other adieu, we once more took to swimming, in hopes of reaching the stump I had i'il: 'ill I Y Ih, 'i I* ■i I, ;:i r(: I II 40 A NARROW ESCAPE. pointed to, "which was better than half a mile oft*. I reached and grasped it with almost my last Lreath ; but poor Jack, although within ten yards of it, could not do so — it was too nmch for him, and I could render him no jussistance. Here he struggled and sank ; and I saw him no more. I had been grasping the stump, with the clutch of despair, for more than half an hour, when, fortunately, a little before dusk, an Indian canoe passing along shore, discovered my situjition and saved my life. The water had reached my middle, and I was insensible." One of the Indians who had hrought Little to the fort remarked : " When we got to him he was speechless, and yet his fingers were sunk in the wood, so that we could hardly get his hands from the stump." Perils by water were not Little's only dangers, as we learned from one of the Indians who rescued him. He was within an ace of being shjt as well as drowned. The moment the people in the canoe came in sight of the stump, one of the Indians, pointing to it, said to his comrades, " Look ! what is that leaning on the stump V Another called out, " A sea otter, or a seal : come let us have a shot at it." Both at that instant taking up their guns, made signs to the person steering to make for the stump slowly. While the canoe was thus making for the stump, the two men held their guns ready CO ked to have a shot: "Shoot now," said one of them to the other. The canoe was all this time near- t TRADE IN THR PACIFIC. 41 in^' tlie object, and the two anxious marksmen were on their knees with their guns pointed — when a woman in the canoe, hawk'd out to the men, " Alko, Alke, Tilla-kome, TiUa-kome" — Stop, stop! a man, a man ! At tliis timely warning the men lowered their guns to look, and in a few minutes the boat was at the stump ; seeing Little, the fel- lows put their hands to their mouths, exclaiming in the Chinook dialect, " Naw-weet-ka, naw-weet- ka" — It is true, it is true. To the keen eye of this woman, poor Little owed hiti life at last. Following the Isaac Todd, there arrived from the same port a schooner called the Columbia. This vessel wjis intended for the China and coast- ing trades, and Angus Bethune, Esq., a north-west partner, w%is appointed supercargo. A voyage or two across the Pacific, however, convinced the north-westers that the project would not succeed. The port duties at Canton, connected with other unavoidable expenses, absorbed all the profits ; and this branch of their trade was relinquished as un- profitable. Even the coast trade itself was far from being so productive as might be expected, owing to the great number of coasting vessels which came from all parts of the States, especially Boston, all more or less connected with the Sand- wich Islands and China trade. Competition had, therefore, almost ruined the coast trade, and com- pletely spoiled the Indians. Having glanced at the affairs of Fort George V ' \ \ ^ I \ i \ it I; i i % f I il t 1 1, ,.., \nii i ' ■' *llil i. /(> 42 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. and tlu; coast trade, we now resume the business of the interior. It will be in the recollection of the reader, that we left tlie spring brigade at Oakana- gan, and our friends journeying on their way to Canada. From Oakanagan I proceeded northward, v some 300 miles, to my own post at the Shc-whaps. There being now no rivalry there, or elsewhere, to contend with, I put the business in train for the season, and immedijitely returned again, with tho view of being able to carry into effect a project of disco veiy, which I and others had contemplated for some time before : this was, to penetrate across land from Oakanagan, due west, to the Pacitic, on foot, a distance supposed not to exceed 200 miles; and for the performance of which I had allowed two months. The undertaking had often Ijeen talked of, but as often failed to be put into execution. This was, however, the fii'st time the project had been attempted by any white man ; and as the season of the yeai' was favourable, and a kno^vledge of that part of the country held out a good prospect for extending the trade, I was anxious to see it explored, and the question set at rest. Men, how- ever, being scarce with us this year, I determined on trying with Indians alone ; placing, at that time, more faith in their zea), fortitude, and perseverance, than ever I felt disposed to do afterwards. Having procured a guide and two other natives, myself being the fourth person, we prepared, with all the THE RED FOX'S HTVER. 13 confnlcnct^ that liope could inspire, for the exociition of my plan. On the i'.")th of July wo set out on our jounioy, oiu' guns in our hands, rach ^vith a Idankct on his back, a kettle, fire-steel, and three days' provisions. We deiHMided on our guns for our suhsistence : in- deed, the only baggage we encumbered ourselves with consisted of anmmnition. Crossing the Oakanagan, we followed the west bank of the CoUunbia in a south-west course — distance eight miles — till we reached the mouth of the Meat-who Kiver, a considc r- ablc stream issuing at the foot of the mountah-a, along the south bank of which we ascended; but, from its rocky sides and serpentine courses, we were unable to follow it. We therefore struck (jff to tho left ; and afttn* a short distanee entered a pathless desert, in a course due west. The first mountain, on the e.ast side, is high and al)rupt. Here our guide kept telling us that we should follow the same road as the Red Fox chief and his men used to go. See- ing no track, nor the appearance of any road, I asked him where the Red Fox road was. " This is it that we are on," said he, pointing before us. " Where ? " said I : "I see no road here, not even so much as a rabbit could walk on." " Oh, there is no road/ • - joined he ; " but this i.> tlie place where they used to pass." When an Indian, in his metaphorical Tcode of expression,' tells you anything, you are net bo suppose that you understand him, or that he literally speaks the truth. The impression on my mind was, that 2) pf '1 44^ THE COMPASS. i'! I we should, at least occasionally, have fallen upon some sort of a road, or path, to conduct us along ; but nothinjr of the kind was to be seen. The Red Fox here spoken of, was the head chief of the Oakanagan nation, and had formerly been in the habit of going to the Pacific on trading excursions, carrying with him a species of wild hemp, which the Indians along the Pacific make fishing nets of, and in exchange the Oakanagans bring back marine shells and otlier trinkets, articles of value among the Indians. After we entered the forest, our course was W. 2 miles, N.W. 1, S.W. 1, W. by S. 1, W. 8 — distance, eight miles. On the 26th. — AVe made an early start this morning ; course as nearly as possible due west. But not half an hour had passed, before we had to steer to every point of the compass, so many impe- diments crossed our path. On entering the dense and gloomy forest, I tried my pocket compass, but to very little purpose, as we could not in many places travel fifty yards in any one direction, so rocky and uneven was the surface over which we had to pass : using the compass made us lose too much time, and as I placed implicit confidence in my guide I laid it by. On seeing me set the com- pass, the guide, after staring with amazement for some time, asked me what it was. I told him it was the white man's g-uide. "Can it speak?" he asked. " No," replied I, it cannot speak. " Then what is the good of it?" rejoined he. " It will show us the ?' i i. !?' i A GLOOMY COUNTRY. 45 right road to any quarter/' answered I. " Tlien what did you want with me, since you had a guide of your own?" This retort came rather unexpectedly, but taking hold of my double-barrelled gun in one hand and a single one in the other, I asked him which of the two were best. " The two barrelled," said he ; " because, if one barrel miss fire, you have another." "It is the same with guides," said I ; "if one fails, we have another." Courses to-day, W. 4, N.W. 1, N.N.W. 1, S.W. 2, W. 5, N. by W. 6. On the 27th. — Weather cold and rainy ; still we kept advancing, through a rugged and broken country, in a course almost due west ; but camped early on account of the bad weather, having tra- velled about ten miles. The next day we made a long journey ; general course W. by N. ; saw seve- ral deer, and killed one. The drumming partridges were very numerous, so that we had always plenty to eat. We met with banks of snow in the course of this day. Distance, eighteen miles. On the 29th. — This morning we started in a southerly direction, but soon got to the west again. Country gloomy ; forests almost impervious, with fallen as well as standing timber. A more diffi- cult route to travel never fell to man's lot. On the heights the cliief timber is a kind of spruce fir, not very large, only two or three feet in diameter. The valleys were filleetween us for a while. After some time, however, I tried to infuse some ambition and jierseverance into the fellows, to get them to resume the journey ; but to no purpose : they Avere destitute of moral courage — a characteristic defect of their race. I had been taught a good lesson, vvliich I rememljered ever after, not to place too much faith in Indians. After remaining one night at the guide's encamp- ment, we turned our fiices towards home. Wild animals were very numerous, far more so than on our first passing. Whether it was the late storm that had disturbed them in another quarter, or E 2 ;• ■ n II |i I I - - (,• M 62 A SMOKING PARTY. i I ' ill ^'1 "•M i I! r jii 'reci[)ice ; for, if too refractory in the council, he is sure to get his appointment at such a dis- tance, and under such circumstances, as to exclude ^ most effectually his attending the meetings for some length of time. This is the course genei-ally adopted to get rid of an importunate and trouble- some member, whether of high or low rank in the •'c- It l.'i ( ;i : *■ 56 THE NORTII-WKSTKRS AT FAULT. service ; or to remove such aa the Company aro r >; disposed to, or cannot conveniently, provide for. The council being over, tlic business of the ycai settled, and the annual ship arrived, the dillerent parties destined for the interior and east side of the mountains took their departure from Fort George on the 25 th of June. "We shall leave them to prosecute their journey, for a short time, while we glance at another subject. No sooner had the north -westers inherited the Oregon, notwithstanding the unfavourable decision of our western council, than ship after ship doubled Cape Horn in regular succession, with bulky car- goes to the full of every demand ; selections of their partners, clerks, and Canadians constantly crossed over the dividing ridge ; but all proved abortive in bringing about that rich harvest which they had expected. We may now remark on the effect produced on affairs by the country falling r\to the hands of new masters. Day after day passed by, yet the ordinary dull routine of things continued ; and a spectator might have re«ad in the countenances of our great men something like disappointment. The more they wished to deviate, the more closely they imitated the policy of their predecessors ; with this difference, however, that, in every step they took, their awkwardness pointed them out as strangers. They found fault with everything, yet could mend nothing. Even the establishment at Fort George 'Ki-1 INDIANS STOP THE BOATS. 57 ;ed on (Is of i the kind a Ices of The they 1 this took, [igers. mend leorge could not please them ; therefore a fort built upon a large scale, and at a gi'eater elevation, was more con- sonant to their ideas of grandeur ; in consequence, the pinnacle of Tongue Point was soon to exhibit a Gibraltar of the west. An engineer Wiis hired, great guns were ordered, men and means set to work, and rocks levelled ; yet this residence, more lit for eagles than for men, was at huit relinquished, and the contenmed old fort Wiis again adopted. The inland brigade, whose departure luus ul ready been noticed, ascended the Columbia without any interruption until it had reached a little above the Walla Wallas ; near to the spot where the Ca}ouse Indians had, in the preceding full, sto])pud the express, and hauled the boat up high and dry on land. Here the Indians intended to play the same game over again, for when the whites were in the act of poling up a small but strong rapid, along shorij^ with the intention of stopping as soon as they got to the head of it, the Indians, who were still encamped there, insisted on their putting to shore at once. This invitation was, however, under existing circumstances, disregarded by the whites, as being almost impossible at the moment ; when suddenly a party of the Indians mounted on horse- buck, plunged into the stream, and so barnid the naiTOw channel through which the boats had to pass, that great confusion ensued. Still the whites, in their anxiety to get up the rapid, paid but little h liiu. I 58 INDIANS SHOT. attention to them ; which forbearance encouraged the Indians to resort to threats, by drawing their bows and menacing the wliites. In this critical conjuncture tlie whites seized their arms, and made signs to the Indians to withdraw ; but this only encouraged them the more to resist, and throwing theiuselves from their horses into the water, they laid hold of the boats. The struggle and danger now iucrejised every moment, as the Indians were becoming more and more numerous and daring. The whites had not a moment to lose : they fired. Two Indians fell dead on the spot, a thii'd was badly wounded, and all three floated down the cur- rent. The instant the shots went of!', the Indians made for land, ami the firing ceased. The whites, in the meantime, drifting down to the foot of the rapid, crossed the river to the opposite side, and soon after encamped for the night on a sandy island. Had the whites done what they ought to have done, from the lesson of the previous year at this place — put ashore at the foot of the rapid, — no difficulties would have ensued, and no blood would have been shed. On the next morning the Indians assembled in fearful numbers, and kept up an occasional firing at the whites on the island, at too great a distance to do any harm ; and as the whites escaped without injur}', they did not return the fire. The greatest annoy- ance was, that the whites could not proceed on their journey before tlie natives mustered in great num- PERILS OF THE WHITES. 59 were beis ; for it blew almost a Imrricane. Tlu^ cloud of urs also, for they ti'avel so fast that tliey will be here iji two nights." I tried to console the nielancholy chief, gave him some tobacco, and told him not to be discouraged , that, if the W(jlves came to attack our horses, we should certainly kill them : that we had bnlls that would kill anything. With this assur- ance he seemed pleased, and went off to circulate the opinion of the whites among his own ijouple. I had heard the re})ort respecting the m^oIvcs some time before the chief had told me, for Jicse thing's spread like wildlire. I \vas convinced that some horses had been killed : it was a connnon occur- rence ; for not a year passes, when the snows are deep, and often when there is no snow at all without such things happening ; but, iis to anything else, I looked upon it as a mere fable. Oil the thu-d day after my parley M'itli thti hief. su th in Iia of str: an; anc rea' WOLVES TRAPPED. 63 sure enough the wolves did come, and killed, during the (irst night, five of our liorses. On discovering in tlie mominfr the havoc the unwelcome visitors had made, I got a dozen steel traps set in the form of a circle round the carcase of one of the dead horses ; then removing tlie others, and keeping «t, strict guard on the live stock, we wait"d with anxiety for the morning. Taking a man witli me, and our riHes, we set out to visit the traps ; on reacliing the spot, \vo found four of them occu- pietl. One of them held a large white wolf hy the fore leg, a foot equally large was gnawed off and left in another, the third held a fox, and the fourth trap had disappeared, a' ^etlier. The prisoner held by the leg was still alive, and certainly, as the chief said, a more ferocious animal I never saw. It had marked and cut tlie tra}) in many })laces ; it had gnawed and almost coiiMimed a hlock of oak, which held fast the chain, and in its fniitless efforts had twisted several links in the chain itselt" From the moment we approached it, all its efforts were directed towards us. Vnv some time ve stood wit- nessing its mana'uvres, luit it nevt/ once turned round to fly '-lom us ; on tlio contrary, now anil then it sprang toruai'd to g.t at us, with its mouth wide open, teeth all broken, and its head covered with blood. The f.)ot which the ti'ap held was gnawed, the bone broken, and nothing holding it but the sinews. Its appearance kept us at a respectful distance, an d the ,lly ap- pro- ed the est of rocks, inortb, jescape trot, -head how- xietv eturn with ''\If^. great eagerness for more than six hours, until I got a shot. It proved effectual Had any one else done it I should have praised him ; for at the distance of one hundred and twelve yards, when nothing but the head of the wolf appeared, my faithful and trusty ritie arrested his career and put an end to the chase, after nearly a whole day's anxious pursuit. Some idea of the animal's strength may be con- veyed to our readers, from the fact, that it had dragged a traj) and chain, weighing eight pounds and a lialf, by one of its claws, a distance of twenty-five miles, without appearing in the least fatigued. The prize lay at my feet, when anotlier ditticulty presented itself, — I had no knife with me, and I wanted the skin. Taking, therefore, ac- cording to Indian habit, the flint out of my gvm, I managed to do the business, and home with the skin and trap I hied my way, no less fatigued tlian pleiised with my success. Thus we succeeded in destroying the three rinor- leaders of the destructive gang, which had caused so much anxiety and loss to the Indians; nor were there more, it would appear, than three of the large kind in the troop ; for not anotlier horse was killed during the season in all that part of the country. >Vherever several of the larger wolves associate to- gether for mischief, there is always a numerous train of smaller ones to follow in the rear, and act as auxiliaries in the work of destruction. Two large wolves, such as I have mentioned, are sufficient to F m •; si: ■I \ r r i \y ..;■: 1 , 1 1 i ! :'i ^ il 66 THE WULFS ATTACK. destroy the most powerful horse, and seldom more than two ever befjin the assault, although there may be a score in the gang. It is no less curious than amusing to witness their ingenious mode of attack. If there is no snow, or but little, on the ground, two wolves approach in the most playful and caressing manner, lying, rolling, and frisking about, until the too credulous and unsuspecting victim is completely put off his guard by curiosity and fami- liarity. During this time the gang, squatted on their hind-quarters, look on at a distance. After some time spent in this way, the two assailants separate, when one approaches the horse's head, the other his tail, with a slyness and cunning peculiar to themselves. At this stage of the attack, their frolicsome approaches become very interesting — it is in riffht ifood earnest ; the former is a mere decov. the latter is the real assailant, and keeps his e\es steadily fixed on the ham-strings or flank of tlie horse. The critical moment is then watched, and tiio attack is simultaneous ; both wolves spring at tiicir victim the same instant, one to the throat, the other to the flank, and if successful, which they generally are, the hind one never lets go his hold till the horse is completely disabled. Instead of springing forward or kicking to disengage himself, the horse turns round and round without attempting a defence. The wolf before, then springs behind, to assist the other. The sinews are cut, and in half the time I have been describing it; the horse is on FEROCITY OF WOLVES. f^7 liis side ; his struggles are fiiiitless ; the victory is won. At this signal, the lookers-on close in at a gallop, but the small fry of followers keep at a re- spectful distance, until their superiors are gorged, then they take their turn unmolested. The wolves, however, do not always kill to eat ; like wasteful hunters, they often kill for the j)leasure of killing, and leave the carcases untouched. The hel[)le3S- ne.ss of tlic horse when attacked by wolves is not more singular than its timidity and want of action when in danger by fire. When assailed by fire, in the plains or elsewhere, their strength, swiftnt'ss, and sagacity, are of no avail ; they never attempt to fi}', but become bewildered in the smoke, turn round and round, stand and tremble, until they are burnt to death : which often ha]>pens in this country, in a conflagration of the plains. Kg wild animul in iiiis country stands less in awe of man than the wolf, nor is there .any animal we know that is so fierce. The bear, on most occasions, trit s t(.) fl}' from man, and is only bold and ferocious when actually attacked, wounded, or in defence of her young. The v.ild buffaloes are the same ; but the wolf, on the contrar}^ has often been known to attack man ; and at certain seasons of the year — the spring for instance — it is man's wisdom to fly from him. Some time aci'o, a band of seventeen wolves forced two of our men to take shelter for seve- ral hours in a tree, and although they had shot F 2 n> ;' ) I 63 NORTH-WEST POLICY. ;:'' \ji f ii ' two of tlie mOHt forward of them before they ^(^t to the tree for protection, the others, instead of dis- persing, kept close at tlieir heels. Wolves are as ferocious among themselves as they are voracious. I have more than once seen a large wolf lay hold of a small one, kill it on the spot, and feast on Uie smoking carwi.se. When the Indians are appriiheii- sive of an attack from them, they always contrive to light a Hre. I passed this winter between the She-wha})s and Oakanagan; sometimes at the one, sometimes at the other, constantly employed in the pursuit of furs. It often puzzled myself, as well as others, to know what the north-westers had in view by gi'asping at the entire trade of the Oregon, and running down the policy of their predecessors, since they did not take a single step to improve the trade, or to change the policy which they coii- dennied. The most indifferent could remark upou this ap.itiiy and want of energy, among men whose renown for enterprise on the east side of the moun- tains put to shame all comjoetition, and carried everything before it. Three years had elapsed since they were in pos- session of the trade from sea to sea, and since they enjoyed the full and undivided commerce of tlie Columbia River. In this part, however, their trade fell greatly short of their expectations, or tlieir known success elsewhere ; and, instead of the ai m DIVISIONS IN TIIK COUNCIf.. CO 11 pos- they ^f the trade their the -a 'I '■*.■ anticipated prize, tlry found, afl«'r ho long a trial, notliing else but disappointment and a uniform series of losses and misfortunes. As the quantity of furn, on an average, did not diminish, but rather increased from year to year, it was observed by the more discerning part, that the country was not barren in peltries, and that there existetl some defect in the management of their concern. Expresses were frequently sent to the Company's head quarters at Fort William, dwelling on the poverty of the country, the impracticability of trade, and the hostility of the natives. In tlT lanner the Company were kept in the dark, as to the value of the country. The round of extravagance went on ; every one in turn made the best of not deviating from the steps of his predecessor, but adhered as much as possible to the old habits, while jaunting up and down the river in the old beaten path. In the meantime, the Company, who had placed implicit confidence in the assertions of their co- partners, began to waver in their opinions of the re- cent ac([uisitions, when they found that their coffers were drained for the support of an empty name. They became divided in their councils ; a great ma- jorit}^ were inclined to throw up this cumbersome portion of their trade, while a few, more determined, were for giving it a further trial : for the members of this Company were no less noted for their tenacity of what they already possessed, than fo their f) ' 1 i], 11 . Ir ^ 1 1 .■' V- '>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V' m :/. f/. ^n ^ 1.0 I.I l^|2£ 12.5 £f us 12.0 18. Lii iiiM 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 70 INDIANS OF THE HUDSON S BAY. it !■ 1 M eagerness to seize every possible opportunity of in- creasing their overgrown territory. The maxims of trade followed by the Company on the east of the mountains, their mode of voyag- ing, and their way of dealing with Indians, has been sanctioned by long experience as the best cal- culated for them. These maxims are, nevertheless, founded on false princiiDles, and when they are reduced to practice in the western districts, they are found to fail. An Indian from Hudson's Bay does well where he has been brought up, in the woods and swamps of the north; but must perish from want on the baiTcn plains of the Columbia, where multitudes of in- habitants are never at a loss to find a livelihood : and the rule holds good if reversed. The tem- perature of the climate not being the same, the face of nature alters more or less in proportion. There the height of land is very distant from the ocean, the rivers in their course fall in with level countries, which form them into immense lakes; but from the great duration of the winter, the means of subsistence are scanty, and the natives are thereby scattered over a wide extent of country, familiarised with the trader, and have every dependence on him for the supply of their real or acquired wants. On the waters of the Pacific the case is different; a chain of mountains extends its lofty ridges in the vicinity of the ocean. The inclination of the land is precipitous, and the course of the rivers direct. The ompany r voyag- Jis, has best cal- rtheless, jey are ts, they 1 where amps of i baiTen 5 of in- lihood : e tem- iie, the Dortion. om the h level lakes; means hereby iarised )n him INDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA. 71 heats are excessive, and they continue without a cloud or moistening shower, for months together, to replenish the source or feed their parched streams. Droughts check the salutary progress of vegetation. The ^\inters are short, the waters abound with fish, the forests with animals, the plains with various nutritious herbs and roots, and the natives cover the earth in swarms in their rude and unen- lightened state. War is their chief occupation, and the respective nations and tribes, in their wan- dering life, are no less independent of their trader than they are of one anotlier. The warlike nations of the Columbia move about in such unexpected multitudes as surprise the un- wary trader, and their barbarous and forward appear- ance usually corresponds with their imrelenting fury. A sudden rencontre with them may well appal the stoutest heart. They are too free and indolent to submit to the drudgery of collecting the means of trafiic. But ai*ticles of merchandise or use will not the less tempt their cupidity ; and when such things are feebly guarded, they will not hesitate to take them by force. They are well or ill disposed towards their traders in measure as they supply them with the implements of war and withhold them from their enemies. It is, there- fore, a nice point to pass from one tribe or nation to another, and make the most of each in the way of barter. Many are the obstacles to be overcome, I 'm 1 1 . i 1 H m I I \ i: ! m ') ■■ ! •I i!!! I' W il ^ i)l H iii a'! !l il! ill i IH; \ i I - I. tin". !] 72 THE ASTOR COMPANY S BOATS. nor is it given to ordinary minds to open new roads and secure a permanent trade. It is not easy to change the force of habit, and no set of men could be more wedded to old customs than the great nabobs of the fur trade. And I might here, by way of confirming the remark, just point out one instance among many. The description of craft used on the waters of Co- lumbia by the Astor Company consisted of split or sawed cedar-boats, strong, light, and durable, and in every possible way safer and better adapted to rough water than the birch-rind canoes in general use on the east side of the mountains. They carried a cargo or burden of about 30^*0 lbs. weight, and yet, nimbly handled, were easily carried across the portages. A great partiality existed in favour of the good old bark canoes of northern reputation ; they being of prettier form, and, withal, the kind of vessel of customary con- veyance used by north- westers ; and that itself was no small recommendation. Therefore, the country was ransacked for prime birch bark more frequently than for prime furs ; and to guard against a failure in this fanciful article, a stock of it was shipped at Montreal for London, and from thence conveyed round Cape Horn for their establishment at Fort George, in case that none of equal quality could be found on the waters of the Pacific ! On the arrival of the annual express we heard II' PLANS AT FORT WILLIAM. 73 iw roads ' habit, I to old r trade, ng the J many. ; of Co- split or )le, and pted to general They 00 lbs. easily rtiality noes of ' form, y con- 3lf was ountry uently failure ped at iveyed Fort could heard i it if .t ■11' that some strenuous measures respecting the affairs of Columbia had been adopted at Fort William ; that the eyes of the Company had at last been opened to their own interest, and that a change of system, after a warm discussion, was resolved upon. Such steps, of course, influenced, in a more or less degree, the decisions of our councils here, and gave rise to some equally warm debates, as will appear by-and-bye, about the practicability of carrying into effect the resolutions passed at head quarters. The new plan settled upon for carrying on the trade west of the dividing ridge, so far as it went, embraced in its outline several important alterations. By this arrangement, the new Cale- donia quarter, the most northern district of the Company's trade, instead of being supplied with goods, as formerly, from the east side, was in future to derive its annual supplies through the channel of the Columbia. And the Columbia itself, in lieu of being confined to the northern branch and sea coast as had been the case since the north-west had the trade, would be extended on the south and east, towards California and the mountains, embracing a new and unexplored tract of country. To obviate the necessity of establish- ing trading posts, or permanent dwellings, among so many warlike and refractory nations, formidable trapping parties were, under chosen leaders, to range the country for furs ; and the resources thus to be collected were annually to be conveyed to '\m 'i ' u INTRODUCTION OF THE IROQUOIS. the mouth of the Columbia, there to be shipped for the Canton market. To facilitate this part of the general plan, and give a new impulse to the measure, the Oregon was to be divided into two separate departments, designated by the coast and inland trade, with a chief man at the head of each. Another object connected with this new arrange- ment was the introduction of Iroquois from Mont- real. These people, being expert hunters and trappers, might, by their example, teach others. To the latter part of this plan, however, many objections might have been urged. It will be in the recollection of the reader that we left the inland party preparing for head quarters. At the accustomed time we all met at the Forks, and from thence, following the current of the river, with our annual returns, we reached Fort George on the 7th of June, 1816. ''I 1 '•A ('1 CHAPTER III. 3 river. Debates — New system — Indignity of ttlie" manager — Interior bri- gade — A man drowned — Singular fatality — American ship — Captain Reynolds — Doctor Downic — Suicide — The schooner — Jacob, the Russian mutineer — Deserters — A party in disguise — Jacob among the Indians — His designs — He is dressed in a squaw's garment — Warehouse robbery — Jacob and his Indian associates — Alarms at Fort George — Plan for seizing Jacob by force — Armed party — Indian guide — A rogue surprised — St. Martin Avounded —Jacob's banishment — North- West Company — Outrages — Red River affray — The 19th of June — Criminal proceedings — General remarks — M'Kenzie's return to Columbia — M'Kenzie's reception — Growing difficulties — Two chiefs at issue — Reconciliation — The manaj-dng system — Bour- geois — Agents — Exclusive privilege — The bone of contention — Trapping expedition to the Wallamitte — Brush with the natives — Policy of the trappers— Failure of the expedition — Second trap- ping expedition — Three Indians shot — The expedition fails — Retreat of the whites — Remarks — Negotiation — Embassy to the Wallamitte — Armed party — Indian habits— Flag — Ceremony of smoking— Peace concluded — River Wallamitte — M'Kcnzie at the Dalles — Indian mistake — Partiality for tobacco — Brigade stopped by ice — Policy of the Avhitea — Indian hospitality — The banquet — Second disaster — A] boat broken — Con- fidence not misplaced — Fidelity of Shy-law-iffs, an Indian chief — Spring operations — Increase of returns — Prospects brightening. ! ) The Fort William express brought some new and important resolutions, in addition to those we y ii H i i!..: 76 COUNCIL AT FORT GEORGE. I'! (■•, have noticed in the latter part of the preceding chapter. Tlie first confirmed a division of the Co- lumbia into two separate departments, and ap- pointed the chief man or boui'geois to preside at the head of each. The second altered and amended the mode of conveying expresses ; and the third dwelt on a new system to be introduced for the improvement of the trade generally, with some other points of minor importance. As soon, therefore, as all parties had assembled at Fort George, the council was convened ; but, in- stead of two or three days' sitting as usual, a whole week was spent in discussions without re- sult : they had not the power either to alter or amend, and therefore they acquiesced in the minutes of council at head quarters. The warm debates and protracted discussions in our council here, were not, however, occasioned alone by the introduction of the new system, nor by the division of Columbia into two departments, nor anything that had reference to the trade ; but by a mere point of etiquette, arising out of one of the appointments. After the sittings of council were over, and the new order of things promulgated, we hailed with no small joy the introduction of the new system, as opening a new and extensive field for energy and enterprise. But let me tell the reader that the little pronoun plural "we" is not intended to represent all hands, but merely those of my own -J ■ ■ I! \i THE TWO SUPERINTENDENTS. 77 class, the subordinates ; for the bourgeois looked as sour as vinegar. Nor did it require any great penetration of mind to know the cause. Mr. Keith, already noticed in our narrative, had been nominated to preside at the establisiiment of Fort George, and had the shipping interest, coast trade, and general outfitting business under his sole management. The gentleman appointed to super- intend the department of the interior, was none other than the same Mr. M'Kenzie who had been one of the first adventurers to this part of the country, and who occupies so conspicuous a part in the first division of our narrative. To his share fell the arduous task of putting the whole machinery of the new system into operation. Mr. Keith being one of themselves, his appoint- ment gave no offence ; but that a stranger, a man, to use their own words, " that was only fit to eat horse-flesh, and shoot at a mark," should have been pat over their heads, wa.s a slur on their reputation. So strongly had the tide of prejudice set against Mr. M'Kenzie, that Mr. Keith, although a man of sound judgment and good sense, joined in tho clamour of his associates. In connection with the new arrangement, tlie costly mode of conveying expresses throughout the country hitherto in vogue was to be abolished, and henceforth they were to be entrusted to the natives, with the exception of the annual general 78 AMIOTTE DROWNED. i I ^ express. To give full effect to these measures, it was strongly reconimended at head quarters that the council here should enter into the new order of things with heart and hand. We now turn our attention to the annual brigade. The people bound for inland, consisting of one hun- dred and two persons, embarked on board of twelve boats, and left Fort George after a short stay of only fifteen days. The waters being but moderately higli this year, and the weather very fine, no stoppage or casualty happened to retard their progi'ess till they had reached the little rocky narrows below the falls, when there an accident unavoidably happened. While the men were engaged in hauling up one of the craft, the line broke, and the boat, instantly reeling round, filled with water close to the rocks. The foreman, taking advantage of his position, im- mediately jumped out and saved himself, and so might the steersman, had he been inclined ; but under some strange infatuation, he kept stand- ing in the boat, up to the middle in water, laughing all the time, making a jest of the acci- dent, when suddenly a whirlpool bursting under the bottom, threw the craft on her side : it instantly filled and sunk, and poor Amiotte sunk along with it, to rise no more. From the rocky narrows the different parties got to their respective destinations in safety. Having done so, we propose taking our leave of « m - 'I. i \ THK 'COLONEL ALLAN' ARRIVES. 79 them for a little, and, in the meantime, return to Fort George, the place of my appointment as second to Mr. Keith. The Company's ship, Colonel Allan, direct fi-oui London, reached the Columbia a few days after tlie arrival of the spruig brigade from the interior ; ;ind soon after her, a schooner followed, fi-om the same port, both heavily laden with ample cargoes for the trade of the country. It was pleasing to see the North- West as compared with Astor's vessels. The former brought us a full supply of everything required ; whereas the latter, accord- ing to Astor's crooked policy, brought but little, and that little perfect trash ; nor was half of what was brought left with us, he preferring to supply the Russians rather than his own people. The Colonel Allan, after a short stay at Fort George, sailed for California and South America on a specu- lating trip, and returned again with a considerable quantity of specie and other valuable commodities, consigned to some of the London merchants. This specie and cargo were stored at the establishment, and subjected us, for some months, to the annoy- ance of guarding it day and night. We often wished it in the owners' pockets, or in the river Styx. During this summer Capt. M'Lellan, of the Colonel Allan, was employed in making out a new survey of the bar and entrance of the river, and I was appointed to accompany him ; this i n 80 CHANNELS OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. I business occupied us upwards of three weeks. On the bar several channels were lound out in coui-ho of the examination ; but as the sand-banks fre- quently shift, even in the course of a day or two, according to the prevailing winds, no permanent reliance could be placed on any of them. The old channel was considered the best. In August the Colonel Allan sailed for China, with the Columbia furs and specie. Before taking our leave of this ship and her amiable commander, we have to record a fatal ii>oi- dent which took place on board, while she was lying at anchor in front of Fort George. It had often been a subject of remark among Columbians, how unfortunate a certain chiss of professional men had been in that quarter, physicians and surgeons. The first gentleman of this class in our time was a Doctor White ; soon after entering the river, he became suddenly deranged, jumped overboard, and was drowned. The next, a Doctor Crowly, from Edin- burgh, who came out to follow his profession on the Columbia, for the North-West Company, was, soon after his arrival, charged with having shot a man in cold blood, and, in consequence, sent home to stand his trial. This brings us to the circum- stance we have referred to. While the Colonel Allan was lying in port, an American ship, commanded by a Captain Rey- nolds, entered the river ; it had no sooner cast anchor, than I was sent by Mr. Keith, according to 1i I SUICIDE. 81 tlie usual custom, to ascertain her object, and to li.uid Captain Reynolds a co])y of the Company's regulations, for his information and guidance, re- specting tlu; natives and the trade ; so that all things might be an-anged in accordance with justice and good feelings between all parties. While I was on board the Boston ship, Mr. Duwnie, surgeon of the Colonel Allan, in com- pany with some other gentlemen, came on board, on a visit of pleasure. As soon as my little busi- ness with Captain Reynolds was over, he invited us all down to his cabin to taste what he called his "liquors." We went down, and were treated to a glass of New England whisky. On taking the bottle in his hand, Doctor Downie said, " Let us fill u[) our glasses ; it will, perhaps, be the last." I and others took notice of the words, but no re- mark was made at the time, except by the captain, who smiled and said, " I hope not." After passing but a short time in tl.o cabin, we all left the ship ; I returning to the fort, while Doctor Downie and the others went to the Colonel Allan. Twenty minutes had not elapsed from the time we parted at the water's edge, when a message reached Fort Georrre that Doctor Downie had committed suicide. As soon as the melancholy report reached us, Mr. Keith requested me to go on board the Colonel Ai n, and attend the inquest. Accordingly, I went, and found Mr. Downie in a dying state. The moment he entered his cabin he had shot himself G ii *'' i Pfi ,1- 11 :j 82 JACOB, A RUSSIAN KENEGADE. m Uiii ji with a pistol. Being perfectly sensible at the time, I put a few questions to him ; his only reply was, " Oh ! my mother, my mother ! " He soon breathed his last. No cause could be assigned for the rash act ; he was a very sober man, beloved and re- spected by all who knew him. Mr. Downie was a near relation of the unfortunate captain of that name, who fell so gallantly on Lake Champ- lain. Leaving the Colonel Allan to pursue her voy- age, we resume the subject of tlie schooner which entered the Columbia, as already noticed. This vessel, after a cruise along the coast, sailed for thi United States. On ])oard of the schooner wjis a Russian renegade, by the name of Jacob, a black- smith by trade, whom the captain, on his arrivid, handed over to us in irons, charged witli mutiny. This daring wretch had laid a plot for putting the captain to death, and carrying the ship to a strange port ; but liis designs were detected in time to save both. We have no great pleasure in dwelling on ciimo, but will briefly sketch Jacob's career. He was brought to Fort George in irons, and in these irons he lay until the schooner sailed. On the strength of fair promises, however, and apparent deep con- trition, he was released from his chains and confine- ment and introduced to the forge as a blacksmith. He did not long continue there before it was dis- covered that he had been trying his old pranks ! I PLOT. 83 L'engtli con- )nfine- 5mith. IS dis- iranks again ; but though he did not succeed in bringing about a mutiny, he succeeded in causing disaffection and desertion. It was always customary at Fort George to keep a watch by night as well as a guard by day. In this respect it resembled more a military than a trading establishment. Jacob, from his address, had got into favour with his bourgeois ; he was one of the night-watch, and for some time gave great satis- faction. This conduct was, howe\ cr, more plausible thim real, and, from some suspicious circumstances I had noticed, I warned Mr. Keith that Jacob was not the reformed man that he wished to make us believe. But Mr. Keith, a good man himself, could only see Jacob's favourable side. The master was duped, and the blacksmith was at his old trade of plotting mischief He was bribing and misleading the silly and credulous to form a j:)arty, and had so far suc- ceeded that, while on the watch one dark nig] it, he and eighteen of his deluded followers, chiefly Owhy- hees, got over the palisades unperceived, and set off for California in a body ! He had made his dupes believe that, if once there, their fortunes were made. But just as the last of the deserters was getting over the pickets, I happened to got wind of the matter, and discovered their design. I immediately awoke Mr. Keith, but it was only after muster was called that we found out the extent of the plot, and the number missing. *•' I could never have G 2 )t. 4 'I tj 'it! M 84. COUNTERPLOT. IH ' 1 H! .' ■•' 1 believed the villain would have done so," was Mr. Keith's only remark. On the next morning the interpreter and five Indians, all in disguise, were sent to track them out, with instructions to join the fellows and to act according to circumstances. If they found them determined to continue their journey, they were not to make themselves known ; but if, on the contrary, they found them wavering and divided, they were to use their influence and endeavour to bring them back. The plan succeeded. Abandon- ing their treacherous leader, the fugitive islanders wheeled about, and, accompanying the interpreter, returned again to the establishment on the third day. Jacob, finding himself caught in his own trap, and deserted in turn by those whom he had led astray, abandoned himself with the savages. Nor was he long with them when he gave us a specimen of his capabilities as a robber, as well as a mutineer and deserter, for he returned to the fort in the night-time, and contrived to get over the palisades, twenty feet high, eluded the watch, broke into a store, carried away his booty, and got clear off. Soon after this exploit, which in no small degree added to his audacity, he entered the fort in broad daylight, clothed in the garb of a squaw, and was meditating, in conjunction with some Indian despe- radoes, an attack upon the fort, as we learned after his apprehension. .■? n %\. A PROPOSAL TO SEIZE JACOB. 85 7as Mr. nd five k them and to found y, they t if, on divided, ,vour to bandon- slanders srpreter, 16 third lis own he had lavages, ve us a well as the fort iver the 1, broke ear off. degree 11 broad ;nd was despe- 3d after ' We had repeatedly sent him friendly messages to return to his duty, and promised him a free pardon for the past. In short, we had done every- thing to induce his return ; but to no purpose ; he thought the footing he had obtained among the Indians was sufficient to set all our invitations and threats at defiance. During this time our anxiety and uneasiness increased, and the more so as it was well known that Jacob had become a leading man among a dis- affected tribe of Indians. Our interest, our safety, our all, depended on our dissolving this dangerous imion before it gathered strength. At this critical moment I proposed to Mr. Keith that if he would give me thirty men, I would deliver Jacob into his hands. " You shall have fifty," said he ; but continuing the subject, he remarked again, " No ; it will be a hazardous undertaking, and I have no wish to risk men's lives." " Better to run every risk,'' said I, "^ than to live in constant alarm." " Well then," said he, "take the men you want, and go;" so I immediately prepared to get hold ot the villain at all risks. For this purpose forty armed men were got ready, and having procured a guide, we left the fort in two boats by night ; but soon left our boats and proceeded through the back woods, to prevent the Indians from either seeing or circulating any report of our departure. On the next day we had got to the edge of the woods about sundown : we encamped M I' 86 JACOB SEIZED. h^ii e i H il there, and remained concealed until night encouraged us to advance to within a short distance of the Indians. From this place I despatched the guide and two men to examine and report on the situa- tion of the Indian camp. On their return a little after midnight, we put everything in the best order we could, both for the attack and to guard against surprise. We had information as to the tent Jacob was in, and, of course, we kept our eyes on it. Our Indian guide became uneasy and much intimidated. He said it was madness to attempt taking him, as he was always armed, and besides that, the Indians would fire upon us. " Look," said I to him ; " do you see our guns — are we not armed as well as they ? All the Indians in the land will not pre- vent us from executing our purpose ; but if you are afraid, you can return home." This declaration touched him keenl}^ " I am ready,'" said he, " to follow the whites ; I am not afraid.'' The night being dark, Ave should have waited the return of daylight ; but the Indians were too numerous ; our only chance of success was to take them by surprise. I therefore divided the men into two companies, one to surround the tent, the other to act as a guard in case the Indians interfered. All being ready, I took Wilson, the gunner, and St. Martin, the guide, two powerful men, with me. Arming ourselves, we made a simultaneous rush on the tent ; but at the moment we reached it, a shot 111 oiiraged of the le guide 16 situa- . a little st order against was in, ' Indian d. He n, as he Indians n ; "do well as lOt pre- if you laration he, "to :ed the re too io take en into e other rfered. 3r, and bh me. ush on a shot ST. MARTIN WOUNDED. 87 was fired from within, another instantly followed, yet we fortunately escaped. On forcing our way into the tent, the villain was in the act of seizing another gun, for he had three by him ; but it was wrested out of his hands, and we laid hold of him : being a powerful man he managed to draw a knife, and making a dash at St. Martin, cut his arm severely ; but he had not time to repeat the blow ; we had him down, and tying his hands and feet, dragged him out. By this time all our people had mustered together, and in the darkness and bustle we appeared much more formidable than we retdly were. In this confusion I perceived the chief of the rebellious tribe. Turning round to the fellow as he was sitting with his head on his knees, I said to him, " You are a pi'etty chief ; harbouring an enemy to the whites — a dog like yourself." Dog or woman are the most insulting epithets you can apply to an Indian. "You dog,'' said I again to him, " who fired the shots ? - You have forfeited youi* life ; but the whites, who are generous, forgive you. Look, therefore, well to your ways in future." A good impression might have been made, had we been more formidable and able to prolong our stay among them ; but as the Indians might have reco- vered from their surprise, and seeing our weak side, been tempted to take advantage of it, we hastened from the camp, carrying our prize along with us. After getting clear of the camp, we made a halt, i •■^:J ill I •• u !! m 88 JACOB S FAREWELL. ' ; ,!!i '? { •? ■■;; hand-cuffed our prisoner, and then made the best of our way home. On arriving at the fort, Jacob was locked up, ironed, and kept so until the autumn, when he was shipped on board of a vessel sailing for the Sandwich Islands. As in irons he arrived, so in irons he left us. From that day, I never heard any more about Jacob. It was a fortunate circumstance for us, that the Indians did not interfere with our attempt to take him. The fact is, they had no time to reflect, but were taken by suiprise, which added to our success as well as safety. On Jacob's embarking in the boat to be con- veyed to the ship, he took off his old Russian cap, and waving it in the air round his head, gave three loud cheers, uttering in a bold voice, "Huzza, huzza ! for my friends ; confusion to my enemies !" While we were thus occupied on the west side of the mountains, new and more deeply-interesting scenes were exerting their influence on the east side, which we shall notice. The North-West Company were " encroaching on the chartered territories of the Hudson's Bay Company." The north-westers, high in their own estimation, professed to despise all others, and threatened with lawless violence all persons who presumed, in the ordinary course of trade, to come within their line — a line without limits, which fancy or caprice induced them to draw between them- selves and all othei's. Many needy adventurers from ,'i;.;- i AGGRESSIONS OF THE NORTH-WEST COMPANY. 89 time to time sought their way into the Indian countries from Canada ; but few, very few indeed, ever had the courage or good fortune, if good for- tune we might call it, to pass Fort "William ; and if, in a dark night or misty morning, they had passed the forbidden barrier, vengeance soon overtook them. Their canoes were destroyed, themselves threatened, and their progress impeded in every way, so that they had to return ruined men. It is well known that the North-West Company had no exclusive right of trade to any portion of the Indian country. Their right was in common with every other adventurer, and no more. And yet these were the men who presumed to burst through the legal and sacred rights of otliers. Many actions, however, which carried guilt and crime along with them, were thrown upon the shoulders of the North- West Company undeservedly. Many lawless acts and aggressions were committed by their servants, which that highly respectable body never sanctioned. It w^as the unfortunate spirit of the times — one of the great evils result- ing from competition in trade, in a country where human folly and individual tyranny among the subordinates often destroys the wisest measures of their superiors. For at the head of the company of which we are now speaking were men of great sterling worth ; men who detested crime as much as they loved justice. The north-westers had of late years penetrated •j ■: t 90 ATTACK ON RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. n\i U' 'i\i Ml 11 ■ ftj through the very heart of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's territories as far as the Atlantic, which washes the shores of Hudson's Bay, and set at defiance every legal restraint or moral obligation. Their servants pillaged their opponents, destroyed their forts and trading establishments as suited their views, and not unfrequently kept armed parties marauding from post to post, menacing with destruc- tion and death every one that presumed to check their career, till, at last, party spirit and rivalry in trade had changed the whole social order of things, and brought about a state of open hostility. Such was the complexion of affairs up to the fatal 1 9tli of June of this year. On that memorable day, one of those armed parties to which we have just alluded, consisting ot forty-five men, had advanced on the Earl of Sel- kirk's infant colony at Red River ; when Governor Semple of the Hudson's Bay Company, with seve- ral other gentlemen and attendants, went out on behalf of the frightened colonists, to meet them, with the view, it has been stated, of ascertaining what they wanted. But the moment both parties met, angry words ensued, shots were fired, and in the unfortunate rencontre the Governor and his party, to the number of twenty-two, were all killed on the spot. The colonists were driven, at the muzzle of the gun, from their comfortable homes to a distance of 300 miles fi'om the settlement ; even to Norway House, at the north end of LafeeWinipeg. hi MR. CUTHIiERT GRANTS BRAVERY. 91 ay Com- h washes defiance Their ed their ed their I parties destruc- to check ivalry in f thiriOT, r. Such tal 19th e armed isting ot of Sel- irovernor And if they had the good fortune to get off witli their lives, it was owing to the Immane feelings of Mr. Cuthbert Grant, a native of the soil, who, placing himself, at the risk of his own life, between the north-west party and the settlers, kept the forinor at bay by his daring and determined con- duct, and saved the latter ; for which meritorious and timely interference the settlement owes him a debt of gratitude which it can never rei)ay. On the words, " shots were fired " — hinged many of the decisions which took place in the courts of law ; for the advocates of either party strenuously denied having fired the first shot. Per- haps the knowledge of that liict will ever remain a secret ; but the general opinion is against the north-west party, and in that opinion I concur. The triumph, however, was but of short duration ; for the sacrifice of that day sealed the downfall of the North-West Company. No less than 23 individuals out of the 45 which composed the north-west party, fell victims, in the course of hu- man events, to misfortune, or came to an untimely end. A melancholy warning ! We might here remark, in connection with this sad event, that the going out of Governor Semple and so many men with him was an ill-advised measure, as it carried along with it the appear- ance of a determination on their part to oppose force to force ; and we cannot, in the spuit of im- partiality and fairness, close our eyes to the fact, "i If i|,i 1 1 92 COMMISSIONERS ARRIVE. V M i' that they were all armed : this was, no doubt, the light in which the north-west party viewed their approach, which led to the catastrophe that followed. < But we now hasten from this scene to notice the influence that it had on their opponents. No sooner had the news of the fiital disaster at Red River spread abroad, than the Earl of Selkirk, with an armed force, seized on Fort William, the grand depot and head quarters of the North-West Company, on the east side of the Rocky Moun- tains. We are not, however, prepared to assert that Lord Selkirk was right in seizing on Fort William by way of retaliation. No one has a right to take the law into his own hands, nor to make himself judge in his own cause ; but accord- ing to the prevailing customs of this lawless coun- try, power confers right. Soon after these aggres- sions, the eyes of Government were opened to tlie facts of the case ; and two commissioners, Colonel Coltman and Major Fletcher, were sent up from Canada with authority to examine into the matter and seize all guilty or suspected persons, belonging to either side, and send them down to stand their trials. We cannot do better here than refer our readers to a perusal of these trials, which took place in Canada, in 1818. Before dismissing this part of our narrative, we will advert to what we have just mentioned, namely, " The Earl of Selkirk's infant colony." As IIED RIVER SETTLEMENT. 93 it may afford some satisfaction to our readers to know sometliing more about it, we shall, for their information, state a few facts. In the progress of his colonising system. Lord Selkirk had purchased from the Hudson's Bay Company in 1811, a tract of land on the Red River, situated at the southern extremity of Lake Winipeg, in Hudson's Bay, for the purpose of planting a colony there ; to which place sevenil families had, in 1812 and subsequent years, been brought out from Scotland by his lord- ship. These Scotch families were the first settlers in Red River, and Red River was the first colony planted in Rupert's land. The first settlers had to stand the brunt of trouble- some times, and weather the sweeping storms of adversity during the early days of the colony. Tliey were driven several times from their homes, and suffered every hardship, privation, and danger, from the lawless strife of the country. They were forced to live and seek shelter among the savages, and, like them, had to resort to hunting and fishing to satisfy the pangs of hunger ; and after order had in some measure been established, they were visited for several years by clouds of grasshoppers, that ate up every green herb, and left the fields black, deso- late, and fruitless. What his lordship's views were, in planting a colony in such a frozen and out-of-the-way corner of the earth as Red River, few persons knew. He must have foreseen, that it must eventually ' k\l 'I > \ -it -ri ,1 I 1*1 ii n 94f M'KENZIE AIUIIVES. I ';■ ' i i'4 ! 1 fall into the hamls of the Americans, however little they might benefit by it ; for tiie march of improve- ment muHt, in the nature of things, be south, and not north. Its value, theix-foro, to Great Britain, excepting so far as the Hudson's Bay Company are concerned, will be nothing ; but from its geo- graphical position, it may on some future occjision sei've as a bone of contention between the two Go- vernment. The founder of Red River colony could have had no other real olyect in view, tlian as a key to the fiu* trade of the far west, and uh a resting-place for retiring fur traders clogged witli Indian faniilie.«. In tliis point of view, the object was philanthropic, and, to the fur trade, a subject of real mterest ; for retiring traders, in lieu of trans- porting either themselves or their means to the civilised world, as was the case formerly, would find it their interest to spend their days, in perhaps a more congenial and profitable manner, in Red River colony, under the fostering care and paternal influence of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company. We have already adverted to M'Kenzie's appoint- ment. In October, that gentleman reached Fort George from Montreal, to enter on his new sphere of labours. He was received by tiie Columbia managers with a chilling and studied politeness. It was, no doubt, mortifying to his feelings to witness the shyness of his new associates ; for if they could have driven him back from whence lie came, it was evidently their object to do so ; DISCORD. 95 igs to but M'Kenzie, aa stubborn as themaolves, knew his grouml, and defied the discouniging reception ho met witli, either to damp his spLiita or to cool liis Hteady zeal. He therefore lost ro time, but intimated to Mr. Keith l»is wish to depart for the interior as soon as convenient, the seti.^on being far advanced and the journey long. Mr. Keith, however, raised many objections. He alle|,'ed the scarcity of men, the lateness of the sea- son, and the want of craft. Nor were these objec- tions altogether groundless. " Your departure/' said he, " will disarrange all our plans for the year." In answer to which, M'Kenzie handed him his in- structions, a letter from the agents at Montreal, with a copy of the Minutes of Council at Fort William. After perusing these documents, Mr. Keith, throwing them on the table, said, " Your plans are Avild : you never will succeed; nor do I think any gentle- man here will second your views, or be so foolhardy as to attempt an establishment on the Nez Percds lands as a key to your futm'e operations; and with- out this you cannot move a step." " These re- marks are uncalled for: I have been ther«j already,'' replied ^['Kenzie. " Give me the men and goods I require, according to the resolutions of council : I alone am answerable for the rest." So sayinir, they parted. During all this time the north-westers might be seen together in close considtation, avoiding, as much as possible, the object of their dislike. f ,1 ii,.! ■t -^ij 96 THE TWO CHIEFS AT ISSUF. '1. \s . \ Their shy and evasive conduct at length roused M'Kenzie to insist on his right. " Give me the men and goods," said he, "as settled at head quarters. I ask for no more ; those I must have." " You had better," replied Mr. Keith, " postpone your oi)erations till another year.'' " No," rejoined M'Kenzie, " my instructions are positive, I must proceed at once." And here the conference again ended. Keith and his adherents had denounced every change as pregnant with evil, and M'Kenzie's schemes as full of folly and madness ; they there- fore laboured hard to counteract both. The chief of the interior stood alone, I being the only person on the ground who seconded his views, and that was but a feeble support. Yet, although he thus stood alone, he never lost sight of the main object. The coolness between the parties increased ; they seldom met ; the wordy dispute ended, a paper war ensued. This new feature in the alBfair was not likely to mend the matter, but was what M'Kenzie liked ; he was now in his own element. This went on for two or three days, and all anxiously awaited the result. The characters of the men were well known ; both firm, both resolute. At this stage of the contest, M'Kenzie called me into his room one day and showed me the cor- respondence between them. "You see,'* said he to me, after I had perused the notes, " that in war, as in love, the parties must meet to put an end to A COMPROMISE. 97 it." " I cannot see it in that liglit yet/' said I ; " but I can see that the wisest of men are not always wise. Delay is his object; you must curtail your demands, and yield to circumstances. You do not know Mr. Keith ; he does everything by rule, and "will hazard nothing ; you, on the contrary, must hazard everything. In working against you, the}' are working against themselves, and must soon see their error. It is the result of party spirit : Mr. Keith has been led astray by the zeal of his associates ; left to himself, he is a good man, and there is yet ample room for a friendly reconciliation." Just as we were talking over these matters, a note from Mr. Keith was handed into the room. This note was written in a plain, business-like manner, and distinctly stated what assistance M'Kenzie could obtain. After reading it over, and throwing it down on the table among the other diplomatic scraps, M'Kenzie observed to me, " It is for short of what I require, far short of what I expected, and far short of what the company guaranteed ; yet it is coming nearer to the point, and is, perhaps, under all circumstances, as much as can be expected. It is a choice of two evils, and rather than prolong a fruitless discussion, I will attempt the task before me with such means as are available : if a failure is the result, it will not be difficult to trace it to the proper source." Soon after this the parties met and entered upon business in a friendly manner. H 98 A MOTLEY CREW. 'ii u m . i i' ' M'Kcnzie now prepai'od for his inland voyage : and had the reader seen the medley of savages, Iroquois, Abanakees, and Owhyhees, that were meted out to him, he would at once have marked the brigade down as doomed. But that was not all; a question arose, according to the rules of tlie voyage, who was to be his second ? and this gave rise to another serious difficulty. One said the undertaking was too hazardous ever to succeed, he would not go ; another, that it was madness to attempt it, and he would not go ; and a third observed, that as he had not been appointed by the council, he would not go ; so M'Kenzie was left to go alone ! Never, during my day, had a person for the interior left Fort George with such a motley crew, nor under such discouraging circumstances. And, certainly, under all the difficulties of the case, M'Kenzie would have been justified in waiting until he had been better fitted out, or provided with means adequate to the undertaking. Disregarding all dangers, his ex})erience and zeal buoyed him up, and ultimately carried him through, in spite of all the obstacles that either jjrejudice or opposition could throw in his way. Although M'Kenzie's personal absence was pleas- ing to his colleagues, yet, in another point of view, it was extremely mortifying, because they had failed in their object, either to discourage or stop him. ]Measuring, however, his capacity by their 1... THE company's SYSTKM. 99 own, tliey still cherished a hope that the ludians Avould arrest his progress ; his failure was therefore looked upon as certain. Let us inquire how it happened that a man "only fit to eat horse flesh, and shoot at a mark," should have been put over the heads of the Columbia managers. Incomprehensible as it was to them, it was perfectly clear to us. In the first [)lace, the trade of the Columbia, under their guidance, liad not advanced one single step beyond wliat it was when they first took possession of it : nay, it was even worse ; which a very super- ficial glance at aflTairs would demonstrate beyond a doubt. According to the articles of co-partnership, the shares of the stock in trade were divided into two parts. The directors, or, as they were more gene- rally called, " agents," held a certain proportion in their own hands, as stock-holders and general managers of the business ; the bourgeois, as they were called, or the active managers among the Indians, held the remaining shares. By the regu- lations of the Company, the bourgeois were always raised, either through favour or merit, from the ranks, or, step by step, to the more honourable and lucrative station of proprietors. Their pa- tronage in turn promoted others ; their votes decided the election, for or against all candidates ; and this was generally the manner in which the H 2 mM • «il H ^ r fci *■■' 100 AGENTS. ^ W ' .*. ml- ' 'I ■ 1^ li ■ ill i business of promotion was carried on in the north west trade. But the agents were on a somewliat difierent footing ; for they had not only a voice in common witli the bourgeois in all cases of promotion, but they had what, perhaps, we might call an exclusive right u.s agents, according to the interest they held, of sending into the country any person or persons they thought proper, or who possessed their confidence, whether connected with the company or not. Sucb persons, however, entered the service on fixed sala- ries, without the prospect of promotion ; because, to have a claim to promotion in the regular v/ay, an apprenticeship was indispensable. To the agents, therefore, our friend was known ; his enterprise and general experience gave them every hope ; and to him, in preference to any other, they confided the dijQScult task of recovering the Columbia trade, and of carrying into effect the new system. Five hundred pounds a-year for five years, seemed Lim to their interest, and on these conditions he re- turned again to the Columbia. As soon as the brigade started for the interior, a party of ten men were outfitted for the purpose of trapping beaver in the Wallamitte. On their way up to the place, they were warned by the natives not to continue, for that they would not suffer them to hunt on their lands, unless they produced an instant payment by way of tribute. Tliis the TRAPPING IN THE WALLA3IITTE. 101 hunters were neither prepared for nor disposed to orant ; and they had the simplicity to imagine that tlie Indians would not venture to carry their threats into effect. The next day, liowever, as they were advancing on their voyage, they were astonislied at seeino: tlie banks of the river lined on both sides by the natives, who had stationed themselves in menacing postures behind the trees and bushes. Tlic north-westers were little acquainted with these pco}^le, and thinking they only meant to frigliten them out of some articles of goods, they paddled up in the middle of the stream. A shower of arrows, however, very soon convinced them of tlieir mistake. One of the number w^as wounded ; and in drifting down, for they immediately turned about, tliey fired a round upon the natives, one of Avhom was killed. After this discomfiture the hunters made the best of their way back to the establishment ; and the project of hunting in the Wallamitte was relin- quished for a time. Soon afterwards, however, a party of 2 5 men, under the management of a clerk, was sent to pacify the natives, and to endeavour tO' penetrate to the hunting-ground. On reaching the spot where the first difficulty arose, they found that the man who had been killed was a chief, and that, therefore, the tribe would not come to terms before a certain portion of merchandise was deli- vered as a compensation for the injury done. This being accordingly agreed to, the matter was com- H m : I 102 QUARREL WITH THE NATIVES. (Li, II'? ' ii' If I l\M •i ' ;h)! t !•! lil promised, and the party advanced ; but unfor- tunately soon got involved in a second quarrel with the natives, and having fired upon them, killed three. On their way back, after putting up for the night, a band of Indians got into their camp, and a scuffle ensued, when one of the hunters was severely wounded, and the whole party owed its safety to the darkness of the night. By the dis- asters of this trip, every avenue was for the pre- sent shut up against our hunters in the Walla- mitte. One remark here suggests itself. When the first party of hunters were warned by tlie natives that " they would not sufier them to hunt on their lands, unless they produced an instant payment by way of tribute," what was the amount of that tri- bute ? Had they, the moment the Indians threat- ened tribute, instead of paddling up in the middle of the stream, stopped and made for shore, held out the hand of friendship and smoked a pipe or two of tobacco witli them, there v/ould have been an end to all demands — the affair would have been settled. This was the tribute the natives expected ; but the whites set the Indians at defiance by trying to pass them in the middle of the stream. When any difficulty of this kind occurs, a friendly confidence on the part of the whites sel- dom f\iils in bringing about a reconciliation ; ^lie Indians at once come round to their views. This NEGOTIATIONS. 103 was the universal practice followed by ns during our first years in trcavelling among tlie Indians, and we always got on smoothly. But in measuring the feelings of the rude and independent natives of Columbia by the same standard as they measured the feelings of their dei)endent slaves on the east side of the mountains, the north- westers were not wise. The result of this disaster shut us out entirely from the southern quarter. The loss was severely felt ; and Mr. Keith, with his usual sagacity and forethought, lost no time in applying a remedy. But what remedy could well be applied ? We considered ourselves aggrieved, the natives were still more angry ; we had been wounded, but they had been killed ; and perhaps all by the bad conduct of our own people ; yet, under all the circumstances, something required to be done. Negotiation was resolved upon as the most prudent step to be adopted. In order, therefore, to bring about a reconcilia- tion, a party sufficiently strong to guard against miscarriage and give weight to our measures, was fitted out and put under my charge ; and I was ably assisted by my experienced friend Mr. Ogden. This half-diplomatic, half-military embassy, consist- ing of 45 armed men, left Fort George in three boats, and reached the Wallamitte falls on the third day. It was there the Indians had assembled to resist any attempt of the hunters to ascend the ii : 1! wn I m . ill ; i -i ;■; lii ^fli -ifi I ii (•■ 10 4 A PARLEY. I *■, ■11 I! i< Ji Wiillamitto. There we found tliem encamped on the left or west bank. We took up our position, with two field-pieces to guard our camp, on the east or right-hand side, which is low, rocky, and somcwliat uneven. Both parties were opposite to each otlicr, with tlic river between them. Early the next morning, we set the negotiation on foot, and made several attempts, but in vain, to bring the Indians to a parley. I went to tlieir camp ; we offered them to smoke, and held out the hand of friendship in every possible waj' we could ; but to no purpose. They refused holding any commu- nication with us ; but continued to sing their war- songs, and danced their war-dance. We, however, were not to be discouraged by any demonstrations on their part. Patience and forbearance do much on these occa- sions. It is the best policy to be observed with Indians ; indeed with all the natives of Columbia. Peace being our object, peace we were determhied to obtain. We, therefore, quietl}^ waited to see what time would lu'ing about. The first day passed without our effecting any- thing, and so did the second ; friendly offers were constantly held out to them, but as constantly rejected. On the third day, however, tlie chiefs and warriors crossed over to our side, and stood in a group at some distance from our camp. I knew what Avas meant by this ; so I took a flag in my hand, and went alone to meet them. Just as I M ' ill ill A FLAG OF TRUCK. 105 li.'ul roachod tho party, tlio whole Indian camp burst into a loud and clamorous scene of mourning. That moment the chiefs and Avarriors, formini^ a ring, squatted down, and concealing their faces with tlieir garments, remained silent and motioidess for ahout the space of half an hour. During all this time I had to stand patiently and await the result. Not a word was uttered on either side ; hut as soon as the lamentations ceased in the camp, the gioat men, uncovering their faces, stood upon their feet. I then offered the pipe of peace, according to Indian custom ; hut a significant shake of the head from the principal chief was the only re])ly. After a momentary pause, the chief turning to me exclaimed in his own lanjjuaire, " What do the whites want ?" Rather nettled at his refusing the pipe, I answered, " Peace — peace is what we want;" and in saying so, I presented him with my flag. " Here," said I ; " the great chief of the whites sends you that as a token of his love." A moment or tw^o passed in silence ; a whisper went round ; the peace-offering was accepted, and in return, the chief took a pipe painted and orna- mented with feathers, and laid it down before me. This was a favourable sign. On such occasions, the calumet of peace is always an emblem of friend- ship. They wwe gratified with the toy ; it pleased them. The chief asked to smoke. I then handed him the pipe he had but a little before re- fused, and some tobacco, and they sat down and Pl ' ; V ' I ; i lOO REDRESS DKMANDED. V\ ■i* 'jii. ; 'i^ :',ii n.i: ■ 1 'J m comim'nccd smokinjj^ ; for that is tlie Inti'oductory stej) to Jill important .affairs, and no business can he entered upon with tliese people before the ceremony of smoking is over. The smoking ended, eacli groat man got up in turn and made a speech ; Ix^fore tlioy had all got tlu'ough, nearly two hours elapsed, and all tliat time I had to stand and wait. 'I'h(>se speeches set forth, in strong language, a statement of their grievances, a demand for redress, and a determina- tion to resist in future tlu^ whites from proceeding up the Walhimitte. As soon as the Indians had said all they had to say on the subject, they sat down. After arriving at our camj) and smoking there, I stated the case on behalf of the whites ; opposing the Indians' determination to prevent us from ascending the Wallamitte, and trying to bring about, if possible, a peace. I, thcr'^fore, endea- voured to meet every objection, and proved to the chiefs that their people were the first aggressors, by shooting their arrows at our people ; but this being no part of Indian law, they either could not, or would not, comprehend it. Notwithstanding their people had been the aggressors in the first instance, our people had been guilty of great indiscretion ; and to cut the matter short, I agreed to pay for their dead according to their own laws, if they would yield the other points ; which, after a whole day's negotiation, and two or three trips to their PRACE CONCLUDED. 10 cfimp, tlioy at last agreed to. Tlie elii(;fs reasoned the matter teniperntely, and fonnally a*,a'ced to cverylliing. But tlu'Ir acknowledf^od autliority is very limited ; their power, as chiefs, small ; so tliat any rascal in the camp might at any time break through the most sol(;mn treaty Avitli im})u- nity. The conditions of this rude treaty were, that the "Wnllamitte should remain open ; tliat tlie whites should have at all times free ingress and ecrress to that quarter unmolested ; that in the event of any misunderstandinsx between the natives and the whites, the Indians were not to resort to any act of violence, but their chiefs were to apply for redress to the white chief at Fort George. And if the wliites found themselves aggrieveV M /I III!,, If i !s I* i| ' A FEW dtays after the arrival of the spring brigade from the interior, the company's annual ship reached Fort George, and with its arrival we shall commence the transactions of another year. On the arrival of all hands at head quarters, their stay is generally short ; consequently, at the liead depot, all is bustle and hurry; yet business of every description is transacted there, with a degree of order and regularity not to be surpassed in countries more civilised. As soon, therefore, as COUNCIL. 117 the arrangements at the (le})6t terminate, and the annual appointment is made — for it is there unalter- ably fixed for the year, without any appeal — each man returns to his post. But although the autho- rity which determines the lot of each for the season is absolute, yet few instances of either oppression or injustice occur. Durinsr the sitting of council this year, an incli- nation was manifested to promote, by every possible means, a change of system, and, by so doing, to give the chief of the interior the benefit resulting from general support ; but after the council broke up, the disposition evinced to carry such a measure into practical operation rather operated in an oppo- site direction, tending to defeat any change for the better ; and this disposition was strengthened by new and unforeseen difficulties, over Avhich the Co- lumbians had no control. In the various arrangements from year to year there is generally contentment and satisfaction amono- all classes. This arises as much from that variety of scene, that love of freedom of which man is so universally fond, and which he here so fully enjoys, as from anything else. There are pleasures at times in wild and savage countries as alluring as those in gay cities and polished circles ; and on the whole, few ever leave the scenes of the wilderness without deep regret. In consequence of the East India Company's de- barring the bulk of British subjects from sailing in fi ^1 ! \:\ I] i 11^ til i 'H< III tt M i\ !t;: rS Hi 118 SANDWICH ISLANDERS INTRODUCED. hi.i ' f ill ' :fi 1 i ,'( P *;, i the Indian Ocean, the North-West Company's coni- niorce in that quarter of the world became ex- tremely circumscribed. Therefore, they resolved to divest themselves of all their shipping, as, through the connections they possessed in New England, the inconvenience would be compensated by their in- vesting their furs in China produce, and their ti'ade would not sustain any material injury. We shall therefore not trouble ourselves, nor our readers, about the shipping interest, but confine our remarks to those measures which affected us nearer home. The spirit of rivalry and opposition in trade east of the mountains, had for some time checked the progress of the North- West Company, and intercepted the reinforcements of men which had been despatched to the Columbia quarter. On this account we found ourselves short of our usual com- plement, and therefore had, at a great expense and loss of time, to send for a supply of Sandwich Islanders as substitutes. But even this difiiculty and delay might have been avoided, had there been anything like willing- ness among ourselves to assist each other ; for there might have been not a few men collected from other sources to strengthen our ranks in the emergency ; but no one was disposed to spare a man, or lend a willing hand, to assist in bringing about a new order of things. Old habits and a love of ease predominated. The chief of the in- BRiGADE LEAVES FOllT OEOIltiE. ny terior had therefonj to depart with a motley aiiil disaffected handful of men, chiefly Iroquois, to pro- secute ihe introductory part of his reform plan. Matters liaving been arranged, the inland bri- gade, after a short stay of eight days, left the head depot for the interior. I also accompanied the party for my own post at the She-whaps; and the change was the more agreeable to mo, as any place was to be i)referred to the wet and dis- ain'eeable climate of Fort Georo-c It was not my intention, originally, to have con- ducted, step by step, every voyaging party ascend- ing or descending the Columbia ; yet, as I pro- mised to notice every incident that might occur, and, moreover, to narrate the subject of my own trials and hair-breadth escapes among the Indians, that duty has again devolved on me ; and as it will be found that we had more than ordinary difHcul- ties to contend with during the present voyage, tht reader may, perhaps, take some interest in its details. On tl e brigade's starting, the numbers were only forty-five men, being little more tlian half the usual complement. We felt our own weakness, and the more so at that season when the communication is resorted to by strange Indians, it being the great rendezvous for salmon fishing : but we had no alternative ; few as our numbers were, we had to face the difficulties that lay before us, so we hoisted sail and turned our backs on Fort Geor^ie. I I .1 liii'S ih I I' i'; I 120 WARLIKE PREPARATIONS. 1. • 'ti! U.' 'I 'm i' . fi .1 SVi At Oak Point oiie of our men desortoci, and soon afterwards two others fell siek, dinunisliinn our numbers und embarrassing us still more. At the mouth of the Wallamitte we were nearly get- ting into a serious quarrel. We had made a halt to purchase some provisions from the Indians oii Moltnomah Island ; while in the act of doing so, some arrows were pointed our way without any apparent cause, when two of the Iroquois imme- diately cocked their guns to fire upon the Indians ; they were fortunately stopped in time, or we might have had a sad tale to tell, for one shot fired from any of our i)arty would have been the signal of our ruin. Notwithstanding the Iroquois were checked in time, yet the menace was noticed by the Indians, and it raised a spirit of discontent which ran like wild^re among them ; and our diuii- nished numbers, compared to those of former years, encouraged the Indians to a boldness scarcely ever witnessed before. At this stage of the affair the natives were observed to collect in groups, and to become shy towards us — a very bad sign ; we, how- ever, put the best face on things, and tried to restore confidence and content, after which we set sail and left them. Arriving at the Cascades, we found the natives in great numbers, and all completely armed. The utmost care and circumspection were needful in carrying our bulky ladings over that rocky and dangerous portage ; and although strong guards PEACE RESTORED. 121 were stationed at the fre([UL'iit resting-places, yet ■\ve could not manage to get tlirough without re- peated alarms. However, the good understanding we kept up with the princi})al men quieted all our apprehensions ; and in spite of appearances, it was found that we were in reality safe during the whole of our arduous day's labour. Having encamped on a convenient spot at the upper end, the chiefs and great men were invited to come and smoke with us ; they accepted the in- vitation, and their suite of followers might have been five hundred. As soon as the order of the camp was finished, and the proper precautions taken for the night, the chiefs were admitted within the lines, and made to sit down at a C(jnvenient place set apart for that pur[)0se by the doors of the tents, whi/i the crowd received the same indulgence at some distance on the opposite side. AVhen the ceremony of smoking was over, a few words were addressed to the chiefs, expressing the favourable sense we entertained of their character and their deportment during the day. We also bestowed on each a head of tobacco, and to every one of the group we gave a single leaf, which took a considerable quantity and some time to distribute. This kind treatment was so diti'e- reut to anything they had met with for years past, that all with one voice called out, in the Chinook language, " Haugh owe yea ah, liaugh owe yea ha," meaning, " our friends, our friends." Turning then i Kip. I I 11 A f '. !' , « !|i , m ,\ \M I f*i ill J«*»t ! Irii: ill! 4. 122 TIIK DOG IN DANGKR. i i\ '! iii to tlio chiefs, wc poliitod out tlio duties of tlio son- tinols ; signifying that tliey should exphiin tlie [)ur- port to all the nalivcs of the place, in order tliat our Hlund)ers might not be disturbed, and that the present happy intercourse might not be interm[)ted. This done, the whole party moved off in the most ordoily manner ; neither did any of them ai)pro.ich us during the night. However, we kept a strict watch imtil morning. From the good luulerstanding that existed be- tween ourselves and the natives on a former occa- sion, and particularly last winter, we anticipated the continuance of a friendly intercourse : but in this we were deceived ; that friendship was but of short dm-ation. It was dissolved in a moment by the most frivolous trifle. I had with me an old favourite dog, a little dwarf terrier of the Spanish breed ; we had missed it during the morning, but had not in the bustle and liurry made any inquiry about it. One of the Indians, as it afterwards appeared, had got hold of it, and carried it to his tent. The little captive, in its struggles to get at liberty, hap- pened to scratch one of his children in the face, but got off, and made for us with all haste, just as we v/ere sitting down to breakfast. Happening to turn round, I perceived my little pet running towards us in great fright, and two fellows fol- lowing it at full speed with their guns in their hands. The poor little thing, on reaching us, lay i;:i ip THE INDIAN AND HIS GUN. 123 down, ami by its luol:s seemed to iinploro protec- tion. No sooner liati the raHcals, however, got to us, tluin one of tlieni, Avitli an air of boM eflron- tery, cocked his gun to shoot tlie dog. I imine- liatcly jumped 14), took tlie gim out of liis hands, and tried to pacify hliii : the fellow was furious, and would give no explanation, but again de- manded his gun. I told him he might have his gun if he made no bad use of it. To this ho made no reply ; but with an. air of insolent boldness still demanded his gun. Laying hold of my own gun with one hand, I handtid him his with the other, accom[)anying the delivery with this admonition, — " If } ou attempt to kill my dog, you arc a dead man." The fellov stood motionless as a statue ; but made no attempt to kill the dog. His companion turned back to the camp the moment I laid hold of the gun ; and in a few minutes we were surrounded by a hundred clamorous voices, uttering the words, " Ma sats se-Pa she shy hooks, ma sats se-Pa she shy hooks '' — bad white people, bad white people. We, however, kept a watchful eye on their manoeuvres, armed ourselves, and waited the result. In a little time their excitement began to abate, and we had an opportunity of speaking in our turn ; but our voices were scarcely heard in the crowd. Had we measured the strength of both parties by our comparative numbers, we might at once have yielded to our opponents. But Ave formed no Hi SJ 124 SHY-LiVW-IFS OUR FRIEND. \S ! Iri 111 l|{|f4;: such comparison ; we were compelled through sheer necessity to assert our rights and defend our pro- perty, which we did in defiance of all their threats. It is hard to say how the affair might have ended, had not our friend Shy-law-ifs run into tlie melee, and stood up boldly for the whites ; so that after a great deal of loud clamour and threats, the Indians had to return to their camp, and I save'l my little dog. I mention this trivial circumstance to show how fickle and unsteady Indians are, and how little is required to change their friendship into enmity. In this simple incident you have the true character of an Indian. He will purloin and conceal articles belonging to the whites, and then make a merit of finding them, in order to get paid for his honesty. The hiding of a dog, the concealing of a horse, or anything else, is a common practice of theirs ; and the fellow who took the little dog had no other object than to make a claim on delivering it up. After this affair, we did not consider it good policy to depart from the place Avithout coming to some understanding with the Indians. Putting our camp in a posture of defence to guard against surprise, M'Kenzie and myself went to the Indians and settled the matter in dispute ; we gave the scratched bantling a small present, invited the chiefs to our camp to smoke, gave them a Httle tobacco, and parted once more the best friends in the world ; and all this did not take up two hours' \ i INDIAN FICKLENESS. 125 time, nor cost five shillings. From this incident it would appear, that the Indian is in some re- spects a mere child, irritated by and pleased witli a trifle. Our cautious plans did not admit of our proceed- ing, notwithstanding the apparent good feeling, without having one of the great men to act the part of an interpreter, and to proclaim our friendly footing to others as we advanced, particularly to tlie troublesome tenants of the Falls ; for we were not ignorant that false rumours might get the start of lis, and poison the minds of the natives against us. Such conduct on the part of the Indians of the Cascades may appear strange, after the friendly manner in which our people had been treated by tliem during the last w^inter ; but this can be easily accounted for, were they less fickle than they are. Ill the winter season the natives of the place only were on the spot ; but in summer the Cascades, as well as the Falls, are a place of general resort for all the neighbouring tribes, as well as those of the place ; and this was the case on the present occa- sion. Hence their numbers and boldness. The further we advanced the more numerous were the natives, either dwelling in villages or con- gi'egated about the banks and rocks in tumultuous crowds. We thought it necessary to make a short halt at each band, according to the rules of former days ; and although their gestures were most sus- picious at times, yet we never failed to jump ashore \\ i ii 1,1 126 PRECAUTIONS. m I ! .11 r';i! ■M V 1'. ,, .:: 1 »!' ;iit I 1 and step into the midst of tliem with assumed con- fidence ; at the same time accosting their great men, and going over the same ceremonies as ah-eady noticed. We always passed as if we were old acquaintances on the most friendly terms. No steps within our power were neglected that could be anywise conducive to our safety — an object which now imperiously claimed attention ; for rumours were in circulation, that the natives had collected on the river in an unusual manner. Whenever an occasion called us on shore, a couple of men from each craft, appointed for the purpose, instantly took their stand with fixed bayonets; and a line of privilege was drawn, which the chiefs alone were allowed to pass for the purpr'"? of re- ception. Every step we thus made was full of anxiety and apprehension, increased in a two-fold degree during the night ; every one of the party was at length so worn out by incessant watching and fatigue, that hope itself began to waver, and we even despaired of getting through ; and not to our own puny arm, nor to any further eflforts we could make, but to a kind and superintending Providence, we owed our good fortune and safety. Whenever the sun reached the summit of the hills, the most commanding spot was selected for our encampment. In a few minutes the boats were carried out of tlie water and placed, with the tents and baggage, in the form of a square, or such oth^r s j THE NIGHT-WATCH. 127 fio-uie as might correspond ^vith the peculiar nature of the gi'ound. This novel fortress had hut one opening, which was only wide enough to admit a sino'le person at a time. Of this the tents took up one angle, having the doors outward, and before which a space was left vacant t'lnd approj^riated for the chiefs. Beyond this was the station occu]:>ied by the guards and night-watch, whose duty it was to keep at bay the tumultuous rabble ; and here our solitary swivel was regularly pointed. The chiefs, however, neither passed nor repassed without leave ; and under the specious veil of respect for their exalted rank, their influence was in this way made subservient to our views. Tiieir persons were pledges of our safety. Sometimes, in doubt rb' -nses, they were detained over night. Each of our - ■- /■ had a special occupation assigned ; and the watch at night being divided into three, we had each of us the direction of one alternately. But in many instances we were all on foot, and on these occasions had to pass a sleepless night. When on shore the duties rested entirely on the leaders and sentinels. The further we advanced the more we became sensible of the advantages of the newly-adopted though simple system of strengthening our encampment ; the natives could not have even the enticing opportunity of seiz- ing or pilfering any article to engender a quarrel ; and, as far as a breast-work could go, the people were always sheltered fi'om danger. il ii ( I . ' ii.' ' y)!^ I! ij 128 PORTAGE REGULATIONS. ','"i i'!i:; Ml 1^1 'III Fifteen minntes was the time generally taken to put the camp into a proper state of defence; it would have required aljout the same time to h.ive j ambled everything pell-mell ; when the na- tives, the property, and ourselves, would have indis- criminately occupied one and the same ground, as had been done by the north-westers hitherto on the Columbia. Indeed, that mode of proceeding was one chief cause, among others, of disorder, and of the bold footing which the natives had assumed, and by which the north-westers had so frequently got themselves involved in serious troubles on the Co- lumbia. To reduce the natives to some order, how- ever desirable, was no easy task, and it was rendered more diflicult by the fewness of our numbers. All we could, therefore, attempt, on the present occasion, was gradually to introduce the sys- tem of reform, leaving it to be followed up in future. During our passages through the portages we were unavoidably more or less exposed. On these occa- sions the pauses or resting-places were only the dis- tance of a gun-shot apart, and guards were placed at each. First the craft were carried and placed in a double row, with an area between sufficiently roomy for the baggage, which was properly ranged as it was brought forward, leaving a vacancy still large enough for the purpose of defence. The motions of the natives were closely scrutinised before we ven- tured to start again. Half the ships were HOSTILE APPEARANCES TRIBUTE. 129 stationed at one end the pause, and half likewise at the other. It was on such occasions that the influence of these men came most into play ; by their means, therefore, we advanced, with consider- able despatch, and with all the degree of safety ■which the case would admit of. On arriving at the Dalles, the most suspicious part of the communication, we found the natives mustered to the number of about one thousand warriors. The war-song and yell warned us of their hostile intentions, and the fears of our friendly Indian only served to confirm our conjec- tures. We encamped at the commencement of the portage. The object of the natives, we were told, was to establish a perpetual tribute, which, if granted, would be the means of obtaining for us an undisturbed passage. The subject of tribute had been the result of a general plan settled among the natives. The first appearance of it was manifested at the Wallamitte ; but it had been gathering strength for years past, even since the North- Westers had possession of the country. Had the present expedition b^en con- ducted in the ordinary way of their travelling in these parts, no doubt it would have been enforced ; but M'Kenzie's sudden and unexpected return, and the Indians' remembrance of him in former days, "were favourable to us on the present occasion. His open, free-and-easy manner often disarmed the most daring savage ; and when one expedient failed, K r^i 130 M'KFNZIE'S tact THE CAMP. ! ■!!! ' li: MM another was always at hand. When the men stood aloof, he caressed their children ; which seldom failed to elicit a smile of approbation from the rudest. His knowledge of their character armed him with confidence : in the most suspicious places he would stroll among them, unarmed and alone, when he would allow no other man to step over the lines. He saw at a glance what was working within, and never foiled to upset all their desigTis. Such a sagacious and prident leader seldom fails to impart confidence to his followers. We tried to put on as bold a front as possiide. The guards were doubled all the night ; not one of us slept. The chiefs were prevailed upon to rem.ain in our camp ; the men were drawn out and tlie arms inspected, and the plan of proceeding for tlie ensuing d.iy fixed upon and explained to the party. We were as desirous of reducing the tur- bulent natives as they were of reducing us. The motley complement of voyagers comprised a mix- ture of Iroquois, Abanakees, Owhyhees, and some even of a worse description ; and with the exception of a few staunch Canadians, the whole were little better, or more to be depended on, than Indians. This made us unwilling to hazard a battle, and oiu' intention, therefore, was to stand on the defensive; should, however, the necessity of things bring on a combat, we were each of us to head a division, keeping each class unmixed and apart. On the next moraing the Indians were assembled AN INDIAN "AGITATOR.' 131 at our camp by break of clay. Our men were at their post close to the l^aggage ; our swivel had likewise its station ; the Indians eyed it with sus- picion. The chiefs, after a parley, received a smoke ; and through the medium of our interpreter tliey were given to understand our determina- tion : if they were advocates for peace, and conducted themselves in an orderly manner, they should be presented with some tobacco at tin; fur- ther end of the portage, as a mark of our friend- ship. While thus engnged, and the crowd thronging nround us, a fellow, more like a baboon than a man, ^vith a head full of feathers and a countenance of brass, having a fine gun in his hand, called out, "How long are the whites to jiass here, troubling our waters and scaring our fish, without paying us ? Look at all these bales of goods going to our ene- mies," said he ; " and look at our wives and children naked." The fellow then made a pause, as if wait- ing an answer ; but, as good fortune would have it, the rest of the Indians paid but little attention to liim. No answer was made ; nor was it a time to discuss the merits or demerits of such a question. Happening, however, to be near the fellow when he spoke, I turned briskly round, " So long," said I, " as the Indians smoke our tobacco ; just so long, and no longer, will the whites pass here." Then I put some questions to him in turn. " "Who gave you that fine gun in your hand?" "The whites," an- K 2 in' m !i' \m ' . i| W wl 134 THE THREE DESPERADOES. !^ a it ' clear and ready for a fair start ; then embarking, wc hoisted sail, our guns still jrointed to the crowd; we were soon beyond their reach. Not an arrow flew, not a trigger was drawn. Had tlie Indians been aware of the movement made for defence at our departure, it is a question if they would have overlooked the opportunities tliat offered while we were more or less separated in making the portage ; it never having been usual to take such precautions. But by tliis determined conduct their views were coiiiDletely frustrated: no tribute was exacted. Had a difterent line been pursued, and had they once gained their point of extorting tribute, in a few voyages the whole lading would no doubt have had to pass for that purpose, and to the loss of property that of lives must inevitably liave been added. In dangerous or hostile rencounters, the Indians generally single out the leaders as the first victims, considering the remainder of the party easily managed from their probable confusion. This appears to have been the case on the present occasion ; for it was remarked that three daring fellows were seen hovering about us adjusting their weapons ; and the sur- mise was confirmed by report. The o-entleman at the head of afijiirs, after sir- nifying the necessity of a sharp look-out, walked up and presented these three desperadoes with a stone to sharpen their arrows ; then sternly eyeing them all three alternately, he stam^Ded with his foot, m'kenzie's departure from the dallks. 135 slapped the butt end of liis gun, and opening tlie pans of his ritle and pistols, he i)rinied anew, to show them that his arms were likewise ready. Ho then insisted on their sitting down and com- posing themselves. They did so with ai»parcntly o-reat reluctance, and at the same time laid down their arrows as a token of submission ; which taking place in the full view of the crowd made them look very sheepish. The effect, as far as we could judge, did not operate amiss : the dema- gogue who goes by the name of the Red Jacket, also became useful, and interested himself; no doubt, to reclaim our favour and get a piece of tolj.icco. During the first day, after our l(;aving the Dalles, we saw on almost every point, crowds on their way to the rendezvous ; from which we inferred that the whole body of Indians had not }et been assembled at the appointed place : and perhaps to that circumstance, more than to any other, we owed our safety. From the Falls, our friend from the Cascades, after being rewarded with a new suit, returned back to his people. During the remainder of the voyage, the banks of the river for a great way were covered with the natives. We made a short halt at each considerable camp, and the same attentions were paid to the chiefs in a gi-eater or less degree, according as their respective merits and the aspect of things demanded. In passing by scattered bands, a few leaves of the envied plant I: I I .( iJ, I '}< i\ r i < 130 TOnACCO OFFERINOS. f , PI' I ■I I"' were thrown upon the beach ; soniethne.s this ofler- ing of friendsliip fell into the water, but this was productive of an equal effect, as tlie natives in n twinkling plunged into the river to secure it. Some of the villages we p.issed had upwards of a thousand iidiabitants, particularly those about the Great Forks. My craft happening to full behind a little, one of the natives took offence at my handing to his com- panion a leaf or two of tobacco which was intended for both ; the villain lost no time in bending his bow, and had he not been arrested in the act by my levelling my gun at him, he would most likely have made sure of his mark. At length arriving at the succession of bad steps, called the Priest's Rapid, we were happily relieved from the importunities and annoyance of our nu- merous and desinriiinf; neighbours on the soutli. Henceforth we travelled among those more friendly, as we advanced towards the north. The innumerable bands of Indians assembled along the commmiication this year rendered an uncommon degi'ee of watch- fulness necessary ; and more particularly as our sole dependence lay on them for our daily subsist- ence. I have passed and re-passed many times, but never saw so many Indians in one season along the communication ; Ave had reason to be thankful at our singular good luck throughout. On arriving at Oakanagan, six hundred miles from the ocean, I set out immediately for my winter tills ofTcr- ) this was ives in n secure it, ^ards of a about tlie tlo, one of > his coiii- intendod tiding liis ic act Ity ost liliely bad steps, relieved our nu- le south, friendly, unierablc inication watch- as our subsist- mes, but long the ikful at d miles winter r OLD SYSTEM — OLD HAIJITS. 1^7 quarters at tlie Siuf-wliaps, leaving my friends M'Kenzie and M'Millan to do the same. It may now occur to the reader, that on arriving utOakanagan our voyage was ended, and that hence- forth we had nothing else to do. The case was, however, very ditto rent. I had still to put threo hundred miles behind mo ere I reached my own des- tination, and the others nearly as many; but themost shigular circumstance was, that some of the party after travelling so fav north, had, at this stage of the voyage, to wheel round and proceed ag; in south : a most defective an-angement. Under existing regulations, the first halt of ..ach brigade was at Oakanagan. This was the point jf general separation ; although the depot for the in- terior was still one hundred and forty miles furt^>,r east, at a place called Spokane House. Now wl at- ever Oakanagan might have been, Spokane House, of all the posts in the interior, was the most un suitable place for concentratin<;^ the different branches of the trade. But a post had been established at that place in the early days of the trade, and after the country had become thoroughly known, people were averse to change wliat long habit had nuide famihar to ilif^m ; so Spokane Ho.v , still re- mained. Hence, both men and goods were, year after year, carried two hundred miles north by water, merely to have the pleai.Ui-e of sending them two hundred miles south again by land, in order to reach their destination. y 'I • Hi 138 PLEASURES OF THE WILDERNESS. II I i I i .','.i W'^ 140 THE DEAD ALIVE. l.;:i! _'i I if. iH M unable to continue the journey. It being impos- sible for us to remain with him, I got a small place fixed up, near wood and water, and leaving a man to take care of him, and a spade, in case of liis death, to bury him, we left him, with but little ho[ies of recovery. On the tenth day after we had departed, the man whom I had put ^o take care of Brusseau arrived at the fort with the news of his death, and on my asking him where the spade was, he said the Indians had stolen it. All this, as a matter of course, passed for truth, until some time afterwards, when who should turn up but poor dead Brusseau, escorted by some friendly Indians. It would appear that the cowardly and faithless fellow whom I had left to take care of him, got frightened at the approach of some Indians, fled, and abandoned Brusseau to his fate ; who, being left alone, must have perished, but for the timely appearance of some natives, who administered to his wants, and thus enabled him not only to leave the spot already doomed as his grave, but also to bring home in his own hands the very instrument that was to have buried him. In our original plan it was proposed to include the transactions of every ye; in a chapter by them- selves ; but finding, as in the present instance, that it would be of inconvenient length, I have resolved to deviate slightly by dividing the operations of this year into two chapters. CHAPTER V. New quarter — Trip of discovery — General remarks — The object — Departure — Courses— New guide — Friendly Lake — Confidence iu our guide— New direction — Grisly-bear Kiver — Beaver ravages —Wild animals — Bear's den — The lair Dreary prospect — Eagle Hill — A man wounded — The guide's remarks — Arrival at the llocky Mountains — Grand view — Size of the timber —Canoe River — The Elk — Prepare for our return — Thunder- storm — Indian superstitions — Pass Eagle Hill— Game abundant —Change our road — The fight — Eagle and Grouse— Conclusion of our journey — Result — General aspect of the country — Prospects — The new Express— Council at the Falls— At the Cascades— Fidelity of the natives — The point gained— Com- mercial views — Difficulties disregarded — Troubles — A horse shot— Conduct of the Iroquois — The affray — Plots and plans — Views for extending the trade— Failure— Second attempt— Suc- cess among the tribes— Bear-hunting — Chief wounded — Conduct of the natives— Sympathy— The disappointment— Wolf-hunting — The whites — The lucky shot — Indian surprise — Chief and his horsej — Fur trader's life — His recreations — Arrive at Fort George. Having in the preceding chapter closed our re- marks on the voyage, and reached our winter quarters, we shall now turn our attention to the transactions of the Northern district. , In this extensive field but little had yet been 't } Mi a. ■ (!, m \W: Hi i f; y- I *:i 142 AN EXPLOTIING PARTY. (. < ! fi: & Ml 1(1. I :l)' done in the way of discovering the resources of the country ; tlie greater part of which was unknown to its traders. I therefore received orders from liead quarters to examine the eastern section, Ij'ing between the She-wh-'ins and the Rocky Mountains : a large tract of wild country never before trodden 1)y the foot of any white man; to ascertain the re- sources of this hitherto unknown waste, as regards its furs and general appearance ; and to find out tlie shortest route between our starting point and Canoe River, lying at the foot of the mountains : this task I had to perform without a gaiide, or a single additional man, beyond the usual comjJe- ment of the post. Our readers will naturally suppose ;nat an ex- ploring party destined for the discovery of any new part of the country ought to be dignified with the name expedition ; but there is no such appellation customaiy here. Whatever be the extent of the undertaking, there is no great preparation made beforehand ; because the ordinary routine of every day's duty is as full of adventure and hardship as it could be on a voyage of discovery, even were it to the North Pole. No salute is fired at starting, no feu de Jolc on returning ; and the party set off" witli such means as are available at the time. Some- times these means are more, sometimes less ; accord- ing to circumstances, the rank of the leader, or the extent of the undertaking ; but they are always simple. The traders, from the very nature of their II , m \\\' PREPARING FOR DEPARTURE. 143 employment, are daily familiarised with difficulties and dangers, and not unfrequently exposed to the severest privations ; so that their ingenuity, sharp- ened by experience, seldom fails to overcome the greatest obstacles that can be presented by moun- tains or plains, by woods or by water, or by the still more dreaded arm of the lawless savage. An experienced person in the Indian countries, with only one or two men, their guns, and a few loiuls of ammunition, would think no more of crossing the desert fi-om the Atlantic to the Pacific, in the most wild and unfrequented parts, than any other man in ordinary life would of crossing a country parish from one side to the other ; and they seldom fail with means the most slender. We may take the present undertaking as an example, although a petty one ; yet those u})on a larger scale in this country differ in no material point, either as to men or means. After remaining: .at the She-whaps for a few days, settling the affairs of the place, I prepared for my journey ; but had re- corded experience to teach me this time not to depend altogether on tlie fiiith of Indians, who might leave me in the lurch, as they had done before in my attempt to reach the Pacific. Taking therefore two of my own best and most experienced hands, together with two Indians, myself making the fifth person, we left Fort She- whaps on the 14th day of August, intending to perform the journey on foot. Each man was pro- ' i' U: I i6 II i(i 144 EQUIPMENT COURSES. '> t :t ■ l\ Mi vided with half a dozen pairs of Indian shoes, a blanket to sleep in, ammunition, a small axe, a knife, a fire- steel, and an awl, together with some needles, thread, and tobacco to smoke; all of which he had to carry on his back, and his gun on his shoulder ; and this constituted the whole of our travelling baggage, with the exception of a cooking kettle and a pint pot. Each person had the same weight to carry, and the equipment is the same in all such cases, be the journey for a week, for a month, or for a year. We depended all tlie time on our guns for our subsistence ; and for a further supply of shoes and clothes, on the skins of the animals we might chance to kill on our way. At the outset we proceeded up the North, or Sun-tea-coot-a-coot River, for three days ; then turn- ing to the right, we took to the woods, steering our course in the eye of the rising sun, nearly mid- way between Thompson's River on the south, and Fraser's River on the north. The first day after turning our bad on North River, we made but little progress ; but what we made was in an easterly direction. The second day our courses per compass were, E.S E. 6 miles, E. 4 miles, S.E. 2 miles, E. by N. 5 miles, E. 1 mile, N.E. 2 miles, N.N.E. 4 miles : we then encamped. The country through which we passed this day was covered with heavy timber, but having clear bottom and being good travelling, with here and there small open plains. During the third day the face of the country be- A VOLUNTEER GUIDE FRIENDLY LAKE. 145 came timberlcss, with frequently open clear ground, so that "vve made a long day's journey. In the evening we fell upon a small lake, on the northern margin of which we encamped for the night. Here we found two Indian families, living on fish, roots, and berries, which they were all employed in procuring : they belonged to the Sun-tea-coot-a- coot tribe, and seemed in their wretched condition to live very comfortably and happily. One of the men belonging to these families, who pretended to have a perfect knowledge of the country through •which we had to pass, volunteered to accompany us as a guide ; for which services I promised to re- Avard liim with a blanket and some ammunition when we returned. In consequence of this new acquisition to our party, we })roceeded without having much recourse to our compass, and without any doubt as to the difficulties t»f the road bemg overcome. Leaving this place, which we called Friendly Lake, we proceeded on our journey with feelinn-s of ccreat confidence as to our ultimate success. We had now resolved to follow our guide, having every confidence in his knowledge of the country; but instead of taking us by an easterly direction, he bent his course almost due north, for about sixty miles. We then reached a small river, called Ke- low-naskar-am-ish, or Grisly-bear River, which we ascended in nearly an easterly direction for six days, until it became so narrow that we could I ' ' I s^iiil !!!i' 146 " DEAVER sign" OX GRISLY-BEAR RIVER. it : (•; ii> I'! I if. w have jumped over it. Wliile following this littlo stream, Ave passed several beaver lodges, and observed many marks of the ravages of that animal. In many places great trees had been cut down, and the course of the water stopped and formed into small lakes and ponds, by the sagacious and pro- vident exertions of the beaver : in one place we counted forty-two trees cut down at the heiglit of about eighteen inches from the root, within the compass of half an acre. We now began to think we had found the goose that lays golden eggs ; this, however, was a delusion. Some low points were covered with poplars, and other soft wood ; and wherever that timber and water weie plentiful, there were beaver, but not in great numbers. Few fur animals were seen after passing this place ; for from theneefonvard the ftice of the country changed materially; being in general too rocky, hard, and flinty for beaver. Huge rocks at every step barred our way : it is a country for goats. Elks and deer were frequently seen in great numbers, and all of them appeared very tanie for wild animals, a sure indication of their being hut seldom disturbed : never, indeed, had they been distiu'bed before l^y civilised man ! Along Grisly-bear River we shot four elks, twenty-two deer, two otters, two beavers, and three black bears, without stepping out of our way. But the bears were poor, and the only cause we could assign for it w^as the scarcity of Ijerries bear's wintering den. U7 and fish ; for these unimjils generally frequent fruit and fish countries ; and we did not notice any fish in the river. Tracks of wiM animals, wherever the ground was soft, were abundant, crossing the road in every direction. In one of the thickets, as we passed along, our guide took us a little out of our w.ay to show us what he called a Lear's haunt, or wintering den ; where that animal, according to Indian story, re- mains in a dark and secluded retreat, without food or nourishment, for months together, sucking its paws I There was nothing remarkable in the place : the entrance to the lair or den was thi-ough a long and winding thicket of dense brushwood ; and the bear's hiding-place was not in a hole under ground, but on the surftice, deeply imbedded among the fallen leaves. Over the den, the snow is often many feet thick, and the bear's hiding-place is disco- vered only by an air hole resembling a small funnel, sometimes not two inches in diameter, through which the breath issues ; but so concealed from view, that none but the keen eye of the savage can find it out. In this den the bear is said to lie in a torpid state fi'om December till March. They do not lie together in families, but singly, and when they make their exit in the spring, they are very sleek and fat. To their appearance at this season, I can bear ample testimony, having frequently seen them. But no sooner do they leave their winter quarters, L 2 hi; 'I 'I 'fli t •( ; >,! :"1 148 DREARY PROSl'ECT EAGLE HILL. ^1 •».i t:i ami begin to roam about, than tliey get poor and liaiTJxard. The bear is said never to winter twice in the same place. In their retreats, they are often found out and killed by the Indians without making the least resistance. A short distance from Bear Thicket is a tower- ing height, resembling a round tower, which we ascended. Here we had a pretty good view of the country around ; but it was a dreary prospect ; the rugged rocks, with their treeless and shrubless tops, almost forbade us to advance. On this hill or tower we shot a large white- headed eagle, which gave a name to the place. Here we inscribed on the south side of a dwarfy pine, "September 2nd, 1817;" and had I at the time had a dram to have given my men, they would no doubt have identified the barren spot by a may- pole, or lop-stick, on its top, to commemorate our visit according to north-west custom. Here our guide told us that, in five or six days more, we should reach our journey's end. He added, that the 8he- whap Indians formerly passed that way on their travels to the east side of the mountains, where they often, when numerous and strong, went to trade, or make war ; but that of late they seldom ventured to meet the Assiniboins of the woods, or the Crees of the plains, in that quarter. Not far from Eagle Hill, we came to some water, where we saw signs of beaver ; but by no means so plenti- ful as to entitle it to the name of a beaver country. ii' I !,i' I i i,i ( r\ A MAN WOUNDED. 149 Our guide told us that these parts were in no respect entitled to be called [)laees of beaver. From Friendly Lake to Eagle Hill, by the road we came, on a rough calculation, is lo5 miles. After pjissing several hours on this rocky pin- nacle, we set out again on our journey ; but in de- scending the rugged clitis, one of my men cut his foot very badly, which detained us for nearly a whole day, and so disabled the unfortunate man, that we had almost made up our minds to leave him behind until our return ; but as this stop would have deprived us of another man to take care of him, we decided to keep together, so we dragged him along with us, and he soon recovered. Our course, after leaving Eagle Hill, was gene- rally S.E. ; but in order to a\'oid clambering over rocks and mountains, we had to wind in tortuous courses, the best way we could, among the intricate defiles that every now and then crossed our path. Thus we made but little headway ; so that after an arduous day's travel, we sometimes scarcely put ten miles behind us in. a direct line. As we ad- vanced the wild animals did not seem to increase in number, although our guns always procured us a sufficient supply of food ; but the circuitous, and in many places dangerous, passes we had to wind through, discouraged us. The precipitous rocks required the foot of a dog and the eye of a hawk, to guard against accident at all times. As we journeyed along our guide took us up to 'M m\ '.!* |{| i'fh' 150 Tin: ROCKY MOUNTAINS GRAND VIEW. H I another heii^lit, un.tely come off the conqueror, for the eagle was very nuich exhausted and nearly blind of an eye. The fight had been long and well contested, iov the gi'ass all round the spot, for some twenty yards, was beaten to the gronnd, and the feathers of the combatants were strewed about in their fierce and bloody struggles. The grouse weighed 1 1 J ll)s. ; the eagle only 8f lbs. We carried both birds along with us. By the road we last took, we shortened our dis- tance nearly a day's travel ; but what we saved in shoes we lost in clothes, for almost all we had wa.s torn to pieces. "We reached the fort, after a labo- rious journey of forty-seven days, on the 2!jth of September. According to the most correct estimate, the dis- f ( > ! a !ii ^i- )il' 156 BESULT OF THE JOURNEY. tt i. 11 i ).l! j !,."•' fl 1 ■ I 1 ,1^.; If' •ill tance between the She-wliaps and Canoe Tliver does not, Ly the route we travelled, exceed l!20 miles, and in a direct line, not much more tliaii half that distance. From all I saw or could learn, however, in reference to the country generally, little can he said in its favour. No road for the purpose of land transport appeared to me practicable ; nor do I conceive it possible to make one without an expense that the prospects of the country Moukl by no means warrant. As to a water conunu- nication, there is none except by Thompson's River, and that is practicable but a very small [)art of tho way ; elsewhere there is none but Eraser's on tho north. As a barren waste wx'll stocked in wild animals of the chace, and some few furs, the trade on a small scale, apart from the She-whaps, might be extended to some advantage in this quarter, and the returns conveyed either to the latter post or to the mouth of Canoe River. Leaving the afiairs of my own district, we sliall bestow a cursory glance at what was going on in another quarter. The season was now at hand when the company's despatches \/ere wont to arrive, and a brigade as usuul escorted them from the in terior to Fort George. As soon, therefore, as they arrived, M'Kenzie made no hesitation in delivering over these important documents into the hands of the natives, to c/vcry them to their destination. This appeared a strange mark of confidence in the fidelity i ' THE IxVDIAN EXPRESS COUNX'ILS. l.>7 of this almost hostile race. It seemed doubtful even to us, that a novel experiment of the kind should succeed in this quarter, while it was remarked, that .similar instances could never be brought to succeed with the Indians of more settled countries. At the Falls a council of the chiefs and wise men was solemnly held over the despatches ; but, after a very sliort delay, they sent them forward. At the Cascades more serious meetings disputed their fate ; but after hoirig detained by a variety of alternations for three days, it seemed that good fortune again jirevailed, and they went on from hand to hand with Avon- derful expedition ; the answer was also conveyed buck to the interior by the same hands, with un- heard-of rapidity. In the contemplation of this [>lan, the council at head quarters had suggested the [)ropriety of one set of couriers performing the whole journey ; hut M'Kenzie, with his usual sagacity, saw this would cause jealousy and eventually fail ; he there- fore managed so as to have the despatches conveyed from one tribe to another, placing confidence in all ; and therefore al! seemed o(]ually entrusted, and equally ; 'ibitious to discharge tlic trust reposed in them. By this means of conveyance, a voyage whicli employed forty or fifty men ^vas avoided ; conse- qnently obviating the risk of lives, loss of time, and heavy expenses : the charges incuri'cd being a Tiiere tiifle. Not onlv wr-re these advantatjes ob- 'W ^ ! n !( '{; :( '! 158 FIDELITY OF THE NATIVES A HUNTING PARTY. tained ; but that which strength and weapons could scarcely bring about, was effected by a sheet of pajjor conveying our ideas to unc another : it imprinted on the superstitious minds of the savages a religious veneration for the superior endowments of the white man. They appreciated the confidence placed in them, and this custom was afterwards continu'vl : a Columbia Indian was always ready to start in the capacity of courier, for the boon of a few strings of beatls, or a few shots of ammunition. When the different establishments were outfitted and put in train for the season, M'Kenzie, with all the residue of the people, set out on a voyage of huntinfjand. discovery to the south of Levri.s River, bordering on the Snake frontiers. His party con- sisted chiefly of such men as were otherwise found of little service in tiie wintering gi-ound, being almost all composed of Iro({uois and other refuse : they were live and thirty strong ; but of this motley crew, five Canadians formed the only support he could trust to with confidence. No sooner were they arrived in the midst of the Nez Perce's, on their way to their winter quarters, than the Iroquois, percei/ing their superiority in nui>:frieal strength over the few whites, inst*nid of n^icing up to their respective duties, contrived plots against their leader and the slender band of Cana- dians that were about hi a. A trifling incident, which we ore j^bout to mention, blew the whole into flame. If ^ THE IROQUOIS PLOT MISCHIEF. 159 The Iroquois, contrary to tlio establislied rules of the trade and the general practice among the natives, trafficked privately with tlie Indians ; which conduct had once or twice before nearly caused serious quarrels Letween the nati\es and the piirty. The Iroquois had been repeatedly warned against such i)ractices, but without eftbct : tliey still continued to act as before. Grand Pierre, one of the Iroquois, bargaining with an Indian for a horse, a misuiidei-standing arose Letween them, and a quarrel was likely to ensue ; when the Iroquois applied to his Bourfjeois, at the same time askinii' him for a variety of things to satisfy the Indian, from whom he had got the horse. M'Kenzie, annoyed at the conduct of Pierre and the Iroquois generally, and wishing to put a final stop to such dangerous inter- ferenee in future, paid the Indian, and tlien draw- ing a pistol from his belt, shot the horse dead upon the spot. This act ought to have warned Pierre and his companions of their misconduct ; it caused a considerable talk at the moment. The Iroquois gi'unibled and retired ; but from that moment they meditated the destruction of their leader. Being as cowardly as pei-fidious, and in oi'der to make sure of their blow, they set to work to gain the natives on their side, that they might throw the guilt of the deed on their shoulders. But this only served to draw down upon tljem the contenq)t of the party, and eventually di\'ulged thei)- schemes before they were ripe for execution. • ' .. f : :i! is «'!< J.. S«l lli c >l l/l. ■I( Ml /: ''\r' I 160 ATTKMPT TO MURDKR M'KENZIE. A short time previously, the Indians had mon- tioncd something of the kind to our people ; wlio, however, discredited the whole as a piece of decq)- tion, got up to answer some purpose of their own ; and it passed unheeded. The Iroquois learning, however, that the Indians had m.ade their designs known to the whites, were determined not to be foiled in their purpose ; so one of the villains immediately arming himself, and calling upon his comrades to fol- low him, sallied forth for his master's tent, just at the break of day. Joachin, the Iroquois interpivter, a faithful and zealous servant, having overheard what was going on, rushed into his Bourgeois' tent, not half a minute before the assassin and one of his gang got there, and called out "Murder! murder!" In the confusion, M'Kenzie, who had been asleep, could not put his hands on his pistols, but grasping one of the tent poles, he brought liis assailant to the ground at the first blow ; another who followed close after, shared the same fate. Bv this time, some of the Canadians and faithful Owhyhees arrived to their master's assistance, and the Iroquois Hed. In this instance M'Kenzie's strength and activity of body were of much service to him ; but not nioii3 than his coolness and decision in the moment of danger. The plan of the Iroquois was to murder their leader while asleep, and to escape with the property out of the country in a body ; but the safety of M'Kenzii THE IROQLTOIS DISPKRSED. 1(31 and tlie success of his attairs resting entirely on promptness of action, ho resolutely chastised the ringleader and others on the spot; nor had the tomalMwks which the villains brandished over his heati, the effect of averting the punishment their treacherous conduct deserved. In the face of the natives, therefore, it was his good fortune to reduce his treacherous servants to a sense of their duty. But he did not think it prudent to trust them further in the prosecution of his plans ; which, by this unfore- seen event, experienced a partial failure for the year. He dispersed the Iroquois: one was sent to nie at Oakanagan, two to Spokane House, and the rest placed on separate hunting-grounds in the neighbourhood, under the eye of an influential chief, where they could do no harm. Tlien with the remainder of his people he wheeled about in another direction, intending to carry on the project of hunting and of discovery for the season, although upon a more contracted scale. His primary object was to conclude an arrangement with the Nez Percys, and in the Snake country to conciliate the Indians, with a view to open the way for extend- ing the trade as soon as existing prejudices gave way ; for he was surprised at the unfavoura]>ie change which the Indians had undergone, during the short period the country had been under the domination of the North-West Company He frequently observed to me that a change of system was necessary to reduce the Indians to order • rn 'it h3 », Jl i II I- !^ M 1 fti, ! i; 162 SUCCESS AMONG THE TRIBKS. and to recliiiiu tlio trade ; both being on tlie l^rink of ruin. With this view, he undci-took, at a Lite season of the year, a voyage of three months' (hiration, traversing a nigged and mountainous countiy covered with deej) snow, in order to keep up a good understanding with the strong and turbu- lent tribes inhabiting the south branch, where some of his former years liad been spent. These roving and hostile bands, inhabiting tlie bord n-s of the great Snake coimtiy, still infested the comnumication, .ind held a valu.ible kev of trade ; but invariably continued hostile to the whites. At that severe season they are generally scattered about in small bands, and as it is much easier to gain on a few than on a multitude, he visited thorn all, and succeeded beyond expectation. In M'Millan's wintering gi'ound everything went on in its usual successful train. But nothing hap- pened in that old beaten path to elicit our notice, so that ve now turn back to the north again. Soon after my arrival from Canoe Kiver, I was invited by the chiefs of my post to accompany a j^arty of the natives on a bear-hunting expetlition for a few days. On these occasions, they feel flattered by theii trader accomjianying them. The party were all mounted on horseback, to the number of seventy-three, and exhibited a fine dis})!ay of horsemanship. After some ten miles' travel, we commenced operations. Having reached the hunt- BEAR HUNTING. 1G3 ing-groimd the party sepamted into several divi- sions. We then perambulated the woods, crossed rivers, sun'oimded thickets, and scampered over hill and dalo, with yell and song, for the greater part of two days ; during which time wo killed seven bears, nine wolves, and eleven small deer : one of the former T had the good luck to shoot myself. In the evening of the third day, howeve^, our sport was checked by an accident. One of the great men, the chief Pacha of the hunting party, named Tu-tack-it, Ts-tso-augh-an, or Short Legs, got severely wounded by a female bear The only danger to be apprtiiv^aded in these savage excursions is by following the wounded animal into a thicket, or hiding-place ; but with the Indians the more danger the more honour, and some of them are foolhardy enough to run every hazard in order to strike the last fatal blow, (in which the honour lies,) sometimes with a lance, tomahawk, or knife, at the risk of their lives. No sooner is a bear wounded than it immediately flies for refuge to some hiding-place, unless too closely pursued ; in which case, it turns round in savage fury on its pursuers, and woe awaits who- ever is in the way. The bear in question had been wounded and took shelter in a small coppice ; the bush was instantly suri'ounded by the horsemen, when the more bold and daring entered it on foot, armed with gun, knife, and- tomahawk. A^iong the bush- M 2 i • 1 ;f i l! .1 I j ; li^;: ,4 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 7. 1.0 ■ 45 1^ 1 2-5 1.1 l.-^nis 1.8 6" - IL2I IIIIIJA 11.6 y Photographic ^Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145^:9 (716) 872-4503 ? .5^ .<^ sr^^ ^ ^ f/i ../, . ; i| : 164 SHORT LEGS WOUNDED. rangers on the present occasion was the chief, Short Legs, who, while scrambhng over some fallen timber, happened to stumble near to where the wounded and enraged bear was concealed, but too close to be able to defend himself before the vicious animal got hold of him. At that moment I was not more than five or six paces from the chief, but could not get a chance of shooting, so I imme- diately called out for help, when Gcveial mustered round the spot. Availing ourselves of the doubtful alternative of killing her — even at the risk of kill- ing the chief — we fired, and as good luck would have it, shot the animal and saved the man ; then carrying the bear and wounded chief out of the bush, we laid both on the open gi'ound. The sight of the chief was appalling : the scalp was torn from the crown of his head, down over the eye- brows ! he was insensible, and for some time we all thought him dead ; but after a short interval his pulse began to beat, and he gradually showed signs of returning animation. It was a curious and somewhat interesting scene to see the party approach the spot where the accident happened. Not being able to get a chance of shooting, they threw their guns from them, and could scarcely be restrained from rushing on the fierce animal witli their knives only. The bear all the time kept looking first at one, then at another, and casting her fierce and flaming eyes around the whole of us, as if ready to make «i spring at each ; TRAPPERS* SURGERY AND INDIAN MEDICINE. 165 yet she never let go her hold of the chief; but stood over him. Seeing | herself surrounded by so many enemies, she moved her head from one posi- tion to another, and these movements gave us ultimately an opportunity of kilhng her. The misfortune produced a loud and clamorous scene of mourning among the cliief 's relations ; we hastened home, carrying our dead bears along with us, and arrived at the camp early in the morning of the fourth day. The chief remained for three days speechless. In cutting off the scalp and dressing the wound, we found the skull, accord- ing to our imperfect knowledge of anatomy, frac- tured in two or three places ; and at the end of eight days, I extracted a bone measuring two inches long, of an oblong form, and another of about an inch square, with several smaller pieces, all from the crown of the head ! The wound, however, gradually closed up and healed, except a small spot about the size of an English shilling. In fifteen days, by the aid of Indian medicine, he was able to walk about, and at the end of six weeks from the time he got wounded, he was on horseback again at the chace. The tide of sympathy for the great man's mis- fortunes did not run high, for at best he was but an unprincipled fellow, an enemy to the whites, and hated by his own people. Many were of opinion that the friendly bear had at last rid us of an unfriendly chief; but to the disappointment of I ! ;■ ^ i^ * ■ ■(, i IH '•;" 166 TRAPPma WOLVES BAIT. '»!|! :f i!- «- i f: i^ !l ,t ' ■ I' all, he set the bear and wounds at defiance, and was soon, to our great annoyance, at his old trade of plotting mischief. Wolf-hunting as well as bear-hunting occasion- ally occupies the attention of the natives. In these parts both species are numerous. The former is an inhabitant of the plains, the latter of the woods. Wolves and foxes are often run down on horse- back, hunted with the gun, or caught in traps. With all the cunning of the fox, however, the wolf is far more difficult to decoy or entrap, being shy, guarded, and suspicious. During the winter season a good many wolves and foxes were caught by the whites, Avith hook and line as we catch fish; with this difference, however, that the latter are taken in water, the former on dry land. For this purpose three dod-hooks are generally tied together back to back, baited, and then fixed with a line to the branch of a tree, so that the hooks are suspended in the air at the distance of four or five feet from the sround. To get hold of the bait, the wolf has to leap up, and the moment the hooks catch their hold it finds itself either in a standing or suspended posi- tion, which deprives the animal of its strength; neither can it in that posture cut the hue : it is generally caught, sometimes dead, sometimes alive. The catching of wolves, foxes, or other wild animals by the whites, was, however, the work A LONG SHOT. 167 only of leisure hours. We always preferred the gun to any other mode of destruction. In these parts, as well as in many others, the wolves prowled ahout night and day; their favourite haunts were on hillocks or other eminences, on which they would stand to rest or look about them for some time. We therefore used to scatter bones or bits of meat as decoys to attract them, and in the intervals practised ourselves in shooting at these frequented spots, taking different elevations with the gun, until habit and experience had enabled us to hit a small object at a very gi-eat distance, and with as much precision as if the ob- ject had been near to us. A band of Indians happening to come to the fort one day, and observing a wolf on one of the favourite places of resort, several of them prepared to take a circuitous turn to have a shot at the anir^al. Seeing them prepare — " Try,^' said I, " and kill it from where you are.'' The Indians smiled at my ignorance. " Can the whites," said the chief, " kill it at that distance V " The whites," said I, *'do not live by hunting or shooting as do the Indians, or they might." " There is no gun," con- tinued the chief, " that could kill at that distance." By this time the wolf had laid hold of a bone, or piece of flesh, and was scampering off with it, at full speed, to the opposite woods. Taking hold of my gun — " If we cannot kill it," said I, " we shall make it let go its prey." " My horse against yoiu: !. .V t 'k w J ;' 51 U .i l.fl i;:l 'Imi. _ :8 ,1 i : 168 A WAGER. shot," called out the chief, " that you do not hit the wolf." " Done," said I ; but I certainly thought within myself that the chief ran no great risk of losing his horse, nor the wolf of losing its life. Taking an elevation of some fifteen, or sixteen feet over it, by chance I shot the animal in his flight, to the astonishment of the chief, as well as all present, who, clapping their hands to their mouths in amazement, measured the distance by five arrow- shots : nothing but their wonder could exceed their admiration of this effect of fire-arms. When the ball struck the wolf, it was in the act of leaping ; and we may judge of its speed at the time, from the fact that the distance from whence it took the last leap to where it was lying stretched, measured twenty-four feet ! The ball struck the wolf in the left thigh, and passing through the body, neck and head, it lodged in the low^er jaw ; I cut it out with my pen-knife. The chief, on deli- vering up his horse, which he did cheerfully, asked me for the ball, and that ball was the favourite or- nament of his neck for years afterwards. The horse I returned to its owner. The Indians then asked me for the skin of the dead wolf ; and to each of the guns belonging to the party was appended a piece : the Indians fancying that the skin would enable them, in future, to kill animals at a great distance. The incidents, adventures, and narrow escapes, which, in the course of this year, we have had to notice, may throw some transient light on a fur- FUR TRADERS LIFE RECREATION. 169 trader's life in this country; liis duties, his troubles, his amusements, and his pleasures. And one of the greatest pleasures, here alluded to", consists in doing homage to the great. A chief arrives ; the honour of waiting upon him in a servile capacity falls to your share, if you are not above your business. You go forth to meet him ; invite him in ; see him seated ; and, if need require it, you untie his shoes, and dry his socks. You next hand him food, water and tobacco ; and you must smoke along with him. After which, you must listen with grave attention to all he has got to say on Indian topics, and show your sense of the value of his information by giving him some trinkets, and sometimes even articles of value, in return. But the gi-and point of all this ceremony is to know how far you should go in these matters, and when you should stop. Nor must you forget that Indians are acute observers of men and things ; and generally possess retentive memories. By overdoing the thing, you may entail on yourself endless troubles. When not employed in exploring new and unfre- quented parts, involved in difficulties with the natives, or finding opposition in trade, the general routine of dealing with most Indians goes on smoothly. Each trading-post has its leader, its interpreter, and its own complement of hands ; and when things are put in a proper train, according to the customs of the coimtry, the business of the year proceeds with- out much trouble, and leaves you sufficient time for f I i I • I ;i! '■ : I L !ll i f w- H>i Miil' 'i 'I rl^ tt »,i ;V t }k\ '! , \\ 170 REFLECTIONS ARRIVE AT FORT GEORGE. recreation. You can take your gun on your back ; you can instruct your family, or improve yourself in reading and reflection ; you can enjoy the pleasures of religion to better advantage, serve your God to more perfection, and be a far better Christian, than were your lot cast in the midst of the tempta- tions of a busy world. Confining our remarks to the simple and uniform duties of a trading-post, activity of body, prudence, and forethought, are qualifications more in request than talent. In trade, as in war, there are gains and losses, advantages and disadvantages, to be kept in view, to guide one's conduct ; and, generally speaking, the master of a department, district, or post, lives a busy and active life ; and, although in a manner secluded from the eye of the world, yet he is just as interested and ambitious to distinguish himself in his sphere of life, as if continually under the eye of a scrutinising superior ; for, if he once loses his character, through negligence or impropriety of conduct, it is here tenfold harder for him to regain confidence than in any employment else- where. The apprehension of this alone is a great check against misconduct. The usual time for mustering all hands at head quarters being now arrived, the different parties throughout the interior, after assembling at the forts, made the best of their way to the emporium of the far west, and met at Fort George on the 5 th day of June, 1818. CHAPTER VI. Vacillating conduct at Fort George — Dcci«ion at head quarters — Fort Nez PercCs — My own appointment — Fort George board of management — Departure of brigade — Wallawalla — Departure of our friends — Forlorn hope — Conduct of the Indians — Chilling reception — The natives' conduct towards the whites— Descrip- tion of the place — Difficulties — ]Manoeuvring of the whites —Resolutions of the Indians— Non-intercourse— Keconciliation — Tum-a-tap-um and his warriors — The chief's views — The great council — The ceremony of smoking — Natives yield — Whites gain their views — The selfish chief — Negotiation concluded —Favourable aspect — First Snake expedition — My own situa- tion — Neighbouring tribes — Favourable change — Discouraging rumours — Oskonoton's story and fate — Conduct of the Iro- quois — Natives murdered — Cowlitz expedition fails— The effect —The offended chief^Cruelties — How-how's conduct— Princess How-how — The marriage — The skirmish — Alarm— Confusion — How-how's departure — Wallamitte quarter — Conduct of the trap- pers—Cruelties — Wallamitte expedition — The effect— M'Kenzie's arrival — His adventures — Prospects in the Snake country — Animals — Lewis River explored — M*K. '.'.eand his two men — Kitson's adventures — Horses stolen — The -;lean sweep — The pur- suit—The affray — A Snake shot — An Iroquois wounded — Horses recovered — Thieves caught — Arrival at M'Kenzie's camp — Snake returns — Two whites murdered — Result of Snake expedition — Favourable prospects — Conclusion. At the sitting of the Fort George board of manage- ment, in the preceding year, an inclination was mani- fested to encourage the change of system, agreeably f-i tmmi n ;< S ■-' i ,1; • ',, is:. ■ '!' 1^ i 172 DECISION OF THE COUNCIL. i! i.i i! • '|i!( lii ' ( H (' ,i.(? I :ii i> to the minutes of council at head quarters. From the feeling at tlie time much was expected, but nothing was realised ; for, practically, that disposi- tion was rendered abortive by subsequent arrange- ments. At head quarters, however, the council of Fort William, this year, took a decisive step, that set all the vacillating measures of the managers at Fort George on one side ; they ordered one hundred men to be at M'Kenzie's disposal for the more effectually carrying out his measures, and that a Fort, or Trading Station, should be erected among the Nez Percys Indians : being more central for the general business of the interior than that of Spokane House, it should be forthwith established there ; and I was appointed to take charge of that important depot. To these resolutions was appended a sharp reproof for the delays during the two preceding years. The Fort George board of management had now no choice but to acquiesce in the decision of the council at head quarters. The managers bit their lips, and were silent. Men were provided, and means also ; and a new feature imparted to the order of things generally. The council having sat, the brigade for the inte- rior left Fort George, and reached, without accident or hindrance, after a short and prosperous voyage, the Wallawalla, near the confluence of the two great branches of the Columbia, on the 11th of July. On that day, M'Kenzie, myself, and ninety- m, FORT NEZ PERCL^S- -DEPARTURE OF FRIENDS. 173 five effective men, encamped on the site pitclied upon for tlic new establishment of P^ort Nez Percys, about half a mile from the mouth of tlic little river Wallawalla. There our friends left us as a forlorn hope, and proceeded on their journey to their several des- tinations. And, having before fully explained the customary mode of voyaging, we shall now direct the attention of our readers to the operations in this new quarter ; occasionally glancing at other parts, as circumstances may require. But before doing so, we nmst, in the first place, give a brief description of the place itself, with such other remarks as may occasionally suggest them- selves. And, secondly, present the reader with an account of our reception by the natives of the place, and the almost insurmountable difficulties we had to encounter, before we could bring about a full reconciliation with the turbulent and high-minded Indians by whom we were surrounded. On reaching the place, instead of advancing to meet us at the water's edge, as friends, on making for the shore, the Indians, as if with one accord, withdrew to their camp. Not a friendly hand was stretched out ; not the least joy, usual among Indians on such occasions, was testified, to invite or welcome our arrival. These ceremonies, though trifling in themselves, are a very good indication of the reception likely to be met with ; and, in the ' <^ i»(i if !i i.1 ! I lii 174 INDIANS RECEIVE US COLDLY. ill h * 'i. present case, their total absence could only be considered as very unfavourable. Shy and silent, they sat on the mounds, at some distance from us, wrapped in their robes of dignity, observing a studied indifference. Even the little copper-coloured bantlings were heard to say, " What do the white people want here ? Are they going to kill more of our relations V alluding to some former occurrences there. Others again would remark, " We must not go near them, because they will kill us." While all this was going on, we kept a shai'p look out. The principal chief of the camp, in- stead of coming to us, walked round and round the assembled crowd, urging the Indians to the ob- servance of a non-intercourse, until the whites had made them presents. Hints were given us that property would purchase a footing. In the whole land, this spot was among the most difficult — the most barren of materials for building ; and as it was no common scheme, the same ap- peared to ordinary minds as a thing more wild than practicable. But plans had been formed ; the country must be secured ; the natives awed and re- conciled ; buildings made ; furs collected ; new ter- ritories added. Objections were not to be enter- tained : no obstacles were to be seen. We were to occupy the position. So on the dreaded spot we took up our stand, to run every hazard, ; 3 brave every danger. liH A RELMARKAnLE SPOT. 175 The site was remarkable among the natives, as l)eing the ground on wliich, some years before, Lewis and CUirke, of the American exploring expe- dition, ratified, according to Indian report, a general peace between themselves and the tribes of the ad- jacent country by the celebration of feasting and dancing for several days. It was rendered re- mai-kable .xs a spot on which difficulties already noticed had tiiken place between the whites and the natives. And it was rendered still more remarkable, as being considered the most hostile spot on the whole line of communication. A place which the whites, it was said, could never hold with safety. Tlie Nez Perces Fort was, however, marked out, on a level, upon the east bank of the Columbia, forming something like an island in the flood, and, by means of a tributary stream, a peninsula at low water. The place selected was commanding. On the west is a spacious view of our noble stream in all its grandeur, resembling a lake rather tlian a river, and confined on the oppositti sliore by verdant hills of moderate height. On the north and east the sight is fatigued by the uniformity and wide expanse of boundless plains. On the south the prospect is romantic, being abruptly checked by a striking contrast of wild hills and rugged bluffs on either side of the water, and rendered more picturesque by two singular towering rocks, similar in colour, shape and height, called by the natives " The Twins," situated on the east side ; these are skirted in ).? M»l 176 ENVIRONS OF FORT NEZ PERCL^S. 'Vi ) if I,,!- i i; ' ■ ■ 1 ■':.lr ' ' :! i: i the distance by a chain of the Blue Mountains, lying in the direction of east and west. To effect the intended footing on this sterile and precarious spot was certainly a task replete with excessive labour and anxiety. In the charming serenity of a temperate atmo- sphere, Nature here displays her manifold beauties ; and, at this season, the crowds of moving bodies diversify and enliven the scene. Groups of Indian huts, with their little spiral columns of smoke, and herds of animals, give animation and beauty to tlie landscape. The natives, in social crowds, vied with each other in coursing their galls nt steeds, in racing, swimming, and other feats of activity. Wild horses, in droves, sported and grazed along the boundless plains ; the wild fowl, in flocks, filled the air ; and the salmon and sturgeon, incessantly leaping, rufiled the smoothness of the waters. The appearance of the country on a summer's evening was delightful beyond description. Yet, with all these attractions around us, we were far from being free from anxiety. The natives flocked about us in very suspicious numbers ; often through curiosity, to see our work ; yet not at all times too well disposed. Our situation was the more irksome, as we depended for food on the suc- cess of trade, and on our standing well or ill with the Indians. By far the greater part of the timber had to be collected in the bush, and conducted by water the |H WHITE DIPLOMACY NON-INTERCOURSE. 177 distance of a hundred miles : not a tree nor shrub was on the spot ! Divisions of our party, conse- quently, took place more frequently than was desirable ; and our situation was ever exposed. We had also to devise means to divert the at- tention and amuse the curiosity of the natives. Being composed of different tribes, the seeds of dis- sension were artfully sown among them, to hold the balance equal, and prevent their uniting against us : each tribe imagined it possessed the pre-emi- nence in our consideration ; and though they were as independent of us as we were the reverse of them, still they were taught to fancy that they could not do without us. Soon after our landing the tribes began to muster rapidly ; the multitudes which surrounded us became immense, and their movements alarming. They insisted on our paj'ing for the timber we were collecting. They prohibited our hunting and fishing. They affixed an exorbitant price of their own to every article of trade, and they insulted any of the hands whom they met alone. Thus they resolved to keep us in their powder, and withhold supplies until their conditions w^ere granted. Not knowdng, therefore, how affairs might termi- nate, all Avork was suspended. We stood on our guard ; and an entire system of non-intercourse be- tween us, of necessity, took place for five long sum- mer days, although we were at the time on very short allowance. One night all hands went to rest N ,.1 I if t ! m: '■1 K 178 PLOTTING POWERFUL AEGUMENTS. .11 ,. it ! m i\ fffK 'i l\ I ' . 1 A ii 'I supperless ! All this time the natives were mus- tering fast, plotting and planniDg. Our numbers, however, being collected, they consisted of twenty- five Canadians, thirty-two Owhyhees, and thirty- eight Iroquois ; and as a temporary inclosure had been jout together, we assumed a posture of inde- pendence and of defence. The natives were offered such terms as were given in other parts of the country — that they should have the choice of cultivating a peaceable understanding with us, and might profit by a friendly intercourse, or be certain to undergo the vengeance of all the whites, and ever after be de- prived of the benefit resulting from a trade esta- blished among them. In the meantime, while they were deliberating among themselves, we were making every preparation for action. Arguments enforced at the muzzles of our guns they could not, it seemed, withstand ; and, fortu- nately, the chiefs advanced to bring matters to an accommodation. Still they insisted, as a preli- minary step, that we should bestow a liberal present on all the multitude around us, to reconcile them to the measure. AU the property we had would scarcely have been a mite to each ! AVe, therefore, peremptorily refused. Their demands grew less and less, as they saw us determined. They were compelled at last to submit to every condition, even the most minute ; and we were left to our own discretion. After these troubles, which RECONCILIATION ^TRADE. 179 we Avere occupied many anxious days and sleepless nights, all again became calm. A trade with the natives now went on very briskly. Our people went to their work as usual ; and we enjoyed for a time the comforts of peace and tranquillity. These enjoyments were, how- ever, of short duration. True, we had obtained a footing on the ground, and things in general wore an aspect of peace ; but something else remained to be done before we could effect the object we had in view. The principal cause which led to the establishing of this post was the extension of the trade ; conse- quently, the next step was to pave the way for dis- coveries. To this end, it was indispensable to the safety of the undertaking to have an understanding with the chief tribes, who, at all seasons, infested the most practicable passes in the contemplated di- rection, which was overspread with the horrors of war ; for seeing the natives extremely formidable, we apprehended that they might be unanimous to prevent our advancing to trade with their enemies. Witli a view to effect this important point, the chiefs and wise men of the diflferent tribes were called together. They met. An endless round of ceremony took place among them, during their dis- cussion : yet nothing could be finally settled, on account of the absence of one of the principal chiefs at the war, in the very quarter we had our eye upon. We considered his absence a great drawback on N 2 •■;*■ ,' ll*' U\ &*' 180 TITM-A-TAP-UM AND HIS WAR PARTY. ; K\ >n' %i !,!" our proceedings, as he professed himself a sincere friend to the whites : we, therefore, placed our chief reliance on his influence and good offices. For ten days our patience was put to the stretch by the intrigues of the many who busied themselves in thwarting our object. But while we were thus entangled in endless efforts to secure a peace, who should arrive but Tum-a-tap-um, tlie regretted chief We now hoped tliat the business would be speedily and amicably settled. But new difficulties presented themselves. Instead of Tum-a-tap-um coming to join the assembled conclave to forward our business, all the great men deserted us to join him with his trophies of war, and left us mere spectators to wait tlieir convenience. The arrival of the war-party left us without either chief or slave to consult ; and for three days we had to wait, until they had exhausted their songs of tri- umph, without one single interview with the chief on whom we had placed so much confidence. This war-party was reported to us to consist of four hundred and eighty men. They had a very imposing appearance on their arrival. Their hideous yells, mangled prisoners, and bloody scalps, together with their barbarous gestures, presented a sight truly .savage. I only saw nine slaves. On the third day, Tum-a-tap-um, mounted on horseback, rode back- wards and forwards round our little camp several times, without expressing either approbation or dis- approbation of our measures. Then dismounting, and COUNCIL THE SELFISH CHIEF HIS VIEWS. 181 drawing near to us, with his men around him, they smoked some hundreds of pipes of our tobacco. The ceremony of smoking being over, we had a long conversation witli him on the subject of a general peace ; but he was so elated with his own exploits, and the success of his late war expedition, that we fancied hira not so warndy interested in our cause as formerly. Notwithstanding reiterated professions of fi'iend- ship, it was observed that his disposition was un- commonly selfish. He never opened his mouth, but to insist on our goods being lavished on his numerous train of followers, without the least compensation : the more he received, the more his assurance increased, and his demands had no bounds. The natives were now to be seen clubbed to- gether in groups ; counselling went on day and night, and as all savage tribes delight in war, it was no easy matter to turn their attention to peace. However, it was so managed, that they were all in- duced to meet again on the subject. " If," said Tum- a-tap-um, "we make peace, how shall I employ my young men ? They delight in nothing but war : and besides, our enemies the Snakes never observe a peace." Then turning round, " Look," said he again, pointing to his slaves, scalps, and arms, "am I to throw all these trophies away ? Shall Tum-a-tap- um forget the glory of his forefathers, and become a woman?'' Quahat, the Gayouse great war chief, 5^ •li :| i^l: :l'i » ; ■ 182 THE NATIVES YIELD THE PIPE OF PEACE. ♦ ' 1:^ .1!, II ■( . ^ 'i ■iSj; %: hi 1^^ !![' i\i'- \' ■■ > ^^iitei'ii next got up, and observed, "Will the whites, in opening a trade with our enemies, promise not to give them guns or balls V Others spoke to the same effect. We tried to combat these remarks by expatiating on the blessings of peace and the comforts of trade ; but several meetings took place before we could accomplish the desired object. At length a messenger came with notice that the chiefs were all of one mind, and would present themselves in a short time. All our people were placed under arms ; nominally to honour their recep- tion, but really to guard ourselves. By-and-by, the solemn train of chiefs, warriors, and other great personages were seen to move from the camp in procession, painted, dressed in their state and war garments, and armed. They entered our inclosiu'e to the number of fifty-six, where a place had been appropriately fitted up for the occasion. The most profound silence pervaded the whole, until the pipe of peace had six times performed the circle of the assembly. The scene was in the highest degree interesting. The matter was canvassed anew. Nothing appeared to be overlooked or neglected. The opinion of each was delivered briefly, with judgment, and with can- dour, and to the same end. Satisfied with the answers and the statements we had given, at sun- set, peace between themselves and the Snakes was decreed on the spot, and a unanimous consent given for us to pass and repass unmolested. Then they A HINT FOR A NEW SUIT OF CLOTHES. 183 threw down their war garments into the midst of the circle, as if to say, " We have no further need of these garments/' This manoeuvre had a double meaning. It was a broad hint for a new suit, as well as a peace-offering ! The pipe of peace finally ratified the treaty. Then all shaking hands, accord- ing to the manner of the whites, parted friends ; both parties apparently pleased with the result. One condition of the treaty was, that we should use our influence to bring the Snakes to agree to the peace ; for without that, it would be useless to ourselves. The only real object \ve had in view, or* the only result that could in reality be expected by the peace, was, that we might be enabled to go in and come out of the Snake country in safety, sheltered under the influence of its name. Nothing beyond this was ever contem- plated on our part. All our manoeuvres were governed by the policy of gain. Peace in reality was beyond our power ; it was but an empty name. Does the reader ask, " Could the puny arm of a few whites, were they sincere, have brought about a peace between these two great and warlike nations, situated as they are?" I answer, " No." Does he ask, "Did Lewis and Clarke conclude a peace between them V I again answer, " No." Does he inquire, " Can a solid peace be concluded between them, either by themselves, or by the influence of their traders ?" I repeat, " No." Does :;[» « **".;;.. . f 184 THE FIRST SNAKE EXPEDITION. m 1, Im *t » ..^ J.- vk*.;*.^-! .•■- --.-i"' STORY OF OSKONONTON 189 aa the war-party passed on, I cut aniiridle, continued my journey. " One day, as I wa^ entering the Blue Mountains, I porceiv( ^1 several horsemen in full pursuit making after mo ; seeif»;]f there was not a moment to lose, I threw my bundle, provisions and all, into a bush, ran down a steep bank, plunged hito the water (a small river happening to be near), and hid myself beneath some drift-wood, my head only out of the water, which fortunately was not very cold. The horsemen paraded uj) and down both sides of the little stream for some time, and then dismounting, made a fire, had something to eat, and remained for more than two Iiours within fifty yards of my hiding place. They were Snakes. After dark, I got out of the water more dead than alive. I then went to look for my provisions, my bag, and my little property, which I had thrown into the bush ; but the night being dark, and I afraid to remain any longer, I set out as fast as I could on my journey without finding anything. Every moment I thought I heard a noise behind me : every branch that broke under my feet, or beast of prey that started, convinced me, in spite of my senses, that I was still pursued. In this state of alarm, I passed the night, but made very little headway. In the morning I took to another hiding-place : tired and exhausted, I laid myself down to sleep, without coverinir, without fire, and ii 'o' |if f 190 OSKONONTON S FATE. I ':■.% ■■f • fl \iim' H. i^. 1 ( ;'i ^ , without either food or water. In this manner, travelhng in the night, and hiding during the day, I crossed the Blue IVIountains, which took me three days. For the most of that time I had not a shoe on my feet ; neither had I gun, fire-steel, nor any- thing to render travelling comfortable. By tliis time, my feet had got swelled and bhstered with walking, so that I took three days more between this and the mountains ; making the seventh day that I had not tasted food of any kind, with the ex- cep(;ion of a few raw roots." This ended Oskonon- ton's story. I had no difficulty in believing the statement of the Iroquois. It was in accordance with their general character. Oskononton, as his story relates, knew nothing of the main party ; so that I was left in the dark as to its fate. After keeping the poor fellow upwards of three weeks to recruit his health and recover his strength, I sent him on to Fort George ; and this brings us to notice the pass- ing events in that quarter. Just at the time of Oskononton's arrival at that place, a party of his countrymen were fitting out for a hunting and trapping expedition to the Cow- litz quarter, and he unfortunately joined it. The party, however, had not been long there, before they got into trouble with the natives, and in an affraj'^, poor Oskononton, in trying to rescue one of his companions, was mui'dered. After this tragical affair, in which it was stated our trapjjers were ,! . 'L ers were THE IROQUOIS- -COWLITZ EXPEDITION. 191 the aggressors, the Iroquois had to make a precipi- tate retreat, abandon their hunting-ground, and make the best of their way back again to Fort George. The Iroquois had no sooner returned than they gave Mr. Keith to understand that the Indians had, without the least provocation, killed one of their party and wounded two others. A deed so atrocious, and a story so plausible, had its effect at Fort George. Placing, therefore, implicit faith in the report of the Iroquois, Mr. Keith, with a view to investigate the matter, punish the murderers, and settle the affair, fitted out, without delay, a party of between tliirty and forty men, chiefly Iroquois — the veiy worst men in the world for such a business — and gave the charge to Mr. Ogden, an experienced clerk of the north-west school. On reaciiing the Cowlitz, all their inquiries were fruitless ; they could find no offenders, umtil they got the assistance of How-How, one of the principal chiefs of the place, who con- ducted them to the very spot, little thinking that he would have cause to regret his friendly assistance. In their approaches to the Indians, Mr. Ogden cautioned the Iroquois to be guarded in their con- duct, and do nothing until he first showed them the example ; some then went one way, some another, making their way through the thickets and bushes. But a party of the Iroquois, happened to reach the Indian tents before Mr. Ogden, and instead of wait- ing for orders, or ascertaining whether those they had found were or were not the guilty persons, the :) I- I !i • !r ;■!< i m. >;.;? •• 'm! ■f i ^ I ■; ii mwm. ■^ i I i; ' I V'H ^ !■: •I; !)' ■1 ' . j ■! I • !' fi! 1 ii '( ; ',1 '1 ■■;:i i^!i m li\ Si- I Mir t'j)'r|:V|- h 192 CRUELTIES how-how's DEPARTURE. moment they got within gun-shot of tlie Indians they fired on all they saw ; and before Mr. Ogden or How- How could interpose, twelve persons, men, women, and children, were killed. Nor is it known to this day who were tlie guilty persons ! Even after Mr. Ogden had arrived, and tried to stop them, one more was shot ; and, to crown their guilt, our people scalped three of their victims. The quarrel in which Oskononton lost his life arose from our trappers interfering with the Indian women, which brought down on them the vengeance of the men, and ended in bloodshed. The moment How- How saw the outrage committed on his people, he wheeled about in disgust, and left the party. The whites had now to make a hasty retreat, before the neighbouring Indians had time to assemble ; and got back to head quarters with speed, carrying along with them several scalps, which they exhibited on poles, as trophies of victory : they even danced with those trophies in the square of Fort George, after their return ! Anticipating, no doubt, a similar result from the Cowlitz quarter, to that which followed the Wallamitte embassy the year before, Mr. Keith was horror-struck at the cruelties perpetrated on the natives. Every stratagem that experience could devise, or hope inspire, was now resorted to, in order to in- duce How-How, the Cowlitz chief, to pay a visit to Fort George ; in order that a secure footing might once more be obtained in the Cowlitz quarter. The PRINCESS HOW-HOW. 193 Cliinooks, to be sure, were in his way — they were his enemies ; but what of that ? The whites were his friends. He was promised ample protection, and a safe return cordially pledged. But he w^ould listen to nothing : How-How was immovable. At last, however, it was discovered that How- How had a daughter, both lovely and fair ; the flower of lier tribe ! Princess How-How was ad- mired. Her ochre cheeks were delicate, her features incomparable ; and her dress surpassed in lustre her person : her robes were the first in the land ; her feathers, her bells, her rattles, were unique ; while the tint of her skin, her nose-bob, girdle, and gait, were irresistible ! A husband of hioh rank had to be provided for the Princess How-How, and Prince How-How himself was formally acquainted with the wishes and anticipations of the whites. This ap- peal the sagacious and calculating chief could not resist. How-How therefore, with his fascinating daughter and train of followers, arrived in their robes of state at head quarters. The bridal-dress was beyond compare ! Prince How-How now be- came the father-in-law of a white chief, and a fur- trader became the happy son-in-law of Prince How- How. We need scarcely mention here that the happy couple were joined together in holy matrimony on the first of April ! After the marriage-ceremony, a peace was negotiated with How-How — this was the main point ; and the chief prepared for his home- o v I ; i; ;.. \ lf>^' 'K'S M. m 19^ A JIISTAKE AND A SKIRMISH. fi' \ % '. 1 1 11 ;i'i i;!(- ■ I ,'Ji .if I n I& fi :^' I'j ward journey, in order to pave the way for our trappers and hunters to return again to tlie Cowlitz. But just as he and his followers were starting, a sad blunder was committed by the whites. It would appear that measures for their safety had either been overlooked or neglected ; and after all the courtesy that had been shown the great man, he left the fort unguarded ; he had not advanced three hundred yards from the gate, before he and his people were partially intercepted by some skulking Chinooks, who waylaid and fired upon them. How-How, instead of retreating back to the fort for protection, boldly called out to his men to face their enemies, and stand their ground. But the Chinooks being concealed, How-How's men could see nobody to fire at ; so they immediately posted themselves behind trees. In the skirmish, a ball happened to strike the fort ; and whether a shot is fired accidentally or by design, the event is equally alarming. Tlie moment, therefore, the ball struck, the sentinel gave the alarm, by calling out, " The fort is attacked I How-How and his men are in ambush ! " In the confusion of the moment, and only How-How's party being seen, the first impres- sion, although exceedingly improbable, was, that How-How himself had proved treacherous, and, on his departure, had fired upon the fort. Orders were, therefore, immediately issued to fire the bastion guns, by which one of How-How's men was severely.^ and > HOW-HOW S SUSPICIONS. 195 another slightly, wounded. At the same time, all the people, who had been at work outside the fort, came rushing in ; and, meeting parties in the square running to and fro in every direction, collecting aims and ammunition, much confusion ensued. How-How and his party now stood between two fires ; and, apprehending treachery on the part of the wdiites, were preparing to make a rush, and force their way through the Chinooks, to save themselves. But, by this time, the people who had entered the fort had time to set matters right, by giving information that the Chinooks had been lying in ambush, and first fired upon How-How ; and that How-How was only defending himself In the bustle and uproar of the moment, however, some time elapsed before men taken by surprise could re- flect, or understand each other. The moment the shots were fired from the bastion, the Chinooks fled ; thinking, as a matter of course, that they only had been fired at. As soon, therefore, as the whites ceased firing, all was over ; and the whole was only the work of a few minutes. How-How was now brought into the fort, and the misunderstanding fully explained to him. But he was a changed man. On his part, the habits of familiarity and friendship ceased ; he was stern and sulky : not- withstanding the praises that were bestowed on hhu, yet his pride was wounded, and he remained sullen and thoughtful. When he ultimately took liis departure, after receiving many presents and o 2 \f' \\ .'.:'■ I ■t\ \ m I ,,'1 h IP- 196 TRADE IN THE WALLAMITfE ^ t' li 1^ 1^ I'l. ■'1 I! 1 1 M ! l\ more promiseSj his fidelity was evidently shaken, and liis future support problematical. The only field that now remained open for our trappers and hunters, as the Cowlitz could not he depended upon, was the Wallamitte ; and to that quarter the thoughts of all were directed. Not- withstanding a sufiicient number of trappers and hunters were occupied there already, yet all those who had been driven from the northern quarter now bent their course to the southern, to join those already there. From the general conduct of the Iroquois among the natives, it would have been better policy to have sent them all out of the country ; distracting, as they did, the natives, destroying the trade, and disgracing the whites. The party, numbering in all sixty men, and headed by two half-bred clerks from Canada, pro- ceeded up the Wallamitte, until they had reached its source ; and from thence, crossing some high ridges of land, hunted on the banks of the Umpqua, where they discovered many branches which pro- mised a rich harvest of furs. Here our people fell in with numerous bands of the natives, who were all very peaceable ; but, from their shy and reserved manners, and wishing to avoid the whites, it was evident that they had never been much in the habit of trading with them. Yet they made no objection to our people's hunting on their lands. The traders v/ished to trafiic, barter in furs, and to exchange horses \vitli them ; they also FOURTEEN INDIANS SHOT. 197 ■\vislied to get wives from them : in short, tliey wished to play the same game witli them as the Iroquois, according to Oskononton's story, played with the Snakes ; but no inducement, no advances, could bring those natives into contact or familiarity with our people. The further the traders advanced, the further the Indians receded to avoid them ; when, seeing the natives timid and distant, our people resorted to threats. One day, while the Indians Avere raising camp,, our people wished to detain some of their horses, as hostages, to ensure their return. The Indians re- sisted ; and the hunters, in a moment of rashness, fired upon them. It was found that no less a num- ber than fourteen of the innocent and inoffensive Indians were slaughtered on the spot, and that without a single arrow being shot in self-defence. The survivors fled, followed up by the hunters ; but the number that fell in the flight was not ascer- tained. Fear now seized the party, and a retreat fol- lowed. They fell back on the Wallamitte, and communicating their fears to the other trappers, all left the hunting-ground, in a panic, and drew near to head quarters. From the Wallamitte Falls four men of their party and an Indian were dispatched to Fort George, with accounts of what had hap- pened, giving a very plausible colouring of the whole affair in their own favour. These men, while on their way thither, had encamped at a place called i^ '*'i li; I' li ' . i v; '!! '1 1 1 m:M j m V i' 1 M.i j .'MliN^W 198 MURDERS REVENGE OF THE WHITES. Oak Point, within twenty miles of the fort ; and were all, with the exception of the Indian, liar- barously murdered one night, while asleep ! The deed was committed by five of the Class-can-eye-ah tribe : the same band who had murdered the three white men belonging to the Pacific Fur Company in 1811. This atrocious act of cruelty, taking place at the very gates of our stronghold, proved that the state of thinnrs was oettinnr worse. The whites called aloud for revenge ; an example was necessary. Three parties, composed of a mixture of whites and natives, were sent in puvsiiit of the murderers. They were found out, and seized, and four out of the five, after a trial of some length, were convicted, and punished with death. The disasters of this year, in the Fort George dis- trict alone, it was supposed, had reduced our an- nual returns four thousand beaver, equal to GOOD/, sterling. And the dire effects produced on the natives, by the reckless conduct of our p eople, took years to efface. Leaving Fort George, we now return to the Noz Percys quarter. We shall, in the first place, notice what effect the troubles at the former quarter had on the latter. The disasters in the Cowlitz had not only shut us out fi'om that hunting-ground, but prevented our trappers from proceeding across the ridge, in the E yak-im-a direction ; for a party I had fitted out were frightened, as soon as they crossed the height of land, by the hos- ;\i COMMUNICATION WITH THE OCEAN. 199 tility manifested towards them, and had, in eon- sequence, to retrace their steps. Tlicy were, never- theless, considering the short time ^' y had been there, very successfuh It b, perhaps, not generally known that the most direct line of conmiunication from the Grand Forks to the ocean is by the river E'yak-im-a ; and although the portage across the dividing ridge, from that river on the east to the Chikelis River on the west, is considerable, yet the land-carriage is no object in a place where the road is not bad and the means of transport aljundant ; horses being everywhere plentiful. All the resources of the interior might, therefore, with great facility, be conveyed, through this channel, to Puget's Sound, independent of the main Columbia ; should tlie fate of war, at any time, offer obstacles to the free in- gress and egress to the river itself ; or sliould the intricate and dangerous channel across the bar at its mouth get choked up, as it sometimes does, to a very great degree, with sand-banks. By the E'yak-im-a road, the natives reach the ocean in ten days. At this period of our anxiety, and our declining hopes as to the fate of our friends in the Snake country, who should appear, to remove suspicion and give new vigour to our proceedings, but M'Kenzie, from his voyage of discovery. He and six men reached Fort Nez Perces on snow-shoes, with their blankets on their backs, in good health and spirits, I '' 1 A 'ii' I ' 1 i'l ilW fh '';!( ilr i! B M ,■' it m V'/ I I .!! 'i : ; \>i t m f ,if:i U. ■. ■ ! ionall;'- from alarms for twenty-five days, and then four ourselves in a rich field of beaver, in the couriti lying between the gi'eat south branch and tl»« Spanish waters ; but the natives in these parts were not friendly. In our journey, we fell in with several bands of the Snake nation, and to each we communicated the welcome tidings of peace, on the part of the Nez Percds ; to which they, one and all, responded in the language of gratitude: for every- thing new attracts their attention, and the word 'peace' served as our letter of introduction among them. ' Our wishes,' said they, * are now accom- phshed : nothing so desirable to us as peace.' I hope the impression may be a lasting one. "After disposing of my people to the best advan- tage, trading with the natives, and securing the different chiefs to our interest, I left my people at the end of four months. Then taking a circuitous route along the foot of the Rocky Mountains, a country extremely dreary during a winter voyage, I reached the head waters of the great south branch, regretting every step I made that we had been so long deprived of the riches of . such a country. Thence I steered my course for the river Skam-naugh, where I had left my Iroquois to hunt beaver in October last. During this part of my journey, I crossed and re-crossed many parts I had seen in 1811. Instead, however, of finding the Iroquois together, and employed in hunting or in I'M i' ' ' I \'k' ifi i I 1 'Hi ti n ' ;( u Mi;- ' 202 OSKONONTONS STORY CONFIRMED. W'i \i ! 1 ;', :h 'l ■i| the pursuit of luuiting, I found thoiu l>y twos and by tliree.s all ovor the couutiy, living with the savages, without horses, without traps, with- out furs, and without clothing ; perfectly destitute of everything I had given them. I left them, therefore, as I found them. Iroquois will never do in this country. In fact, their introduction was the signal of our disappointments. On reaching this place, we found Init little snow in the Blue Moun- tains. During the last two months we have travelled upwards of six hundred miles on snow- shoes." This account confirmed Oskononton's story. Continuing the narrative o^ his journey, our enterprising adventurer next went on to describe the country, the resources, and animals he every- where met with. " On our outward journey," said M'Kenzie, "the surflice was mountainous and rugged, and still more so on our way back. Woods and valleys, rocks and plains, rivers and ravines, alternately met us ; but altogether it is a delightfid country. There animals of every class rove about undisturbed ; wherever there was a little plain, the red deer were seen grazing in herds about the rivers ; round every other point were clusters of poplar and elder, and where there was a sapling, the ingenious and industrious beaver was at work. Otters sported in the eddies ; the wolf and the fox were seen sauntering in quest of prey ; now and then a few cypresses or stunted pines were " !! WILD A.^IMALS ABUNDANT. 203 met with on the rocky parts, and in thoir spread- ing tops the racoon sat secure. In tlio woods, the martin and black fox were numerous ; the badger sat quietly looking from liis mound ; and in the numberless ravines, among bushes laden with fruits, the black, the brown, and the grisly bear were seen. The mountain sheep, and goat white as snow, browzed on the rocks and ridges ; and the big horn species ran among the lofty cliffs. Eagles and vultures, of unconunon size, flew about the rivers. When we approacht'(i, most of these animals stood motionless ; they would then move off a little distance, but soon came anew to satisfy a curiosity that often proved fatal to them. " The report of a gun did not alarm Miem: they would give a frisk at each shot, and f^iaiul again; but when the flag was unfurled, being of a rciddish hue, it was with apparent reluctance they would retire beyond the pleasing sight. Hordes of wild horses were likewise seen on this occasion ; and of all the animals seen on our journey they were the wildest, for none of them could be approached : their scent is exceedingly keen, their hearing also ; and in their curiosity they were never known to come at any time within gim-shot. One band of these contained more than two hundred. Some of them were browsing on the face of the hills ; others were mnning like deer up and down the steeps; and ; 15: « i 204 DP^SOLATION. 'I '.i fe : ' f M ! r h r' ^ *i : i to; I ,1 ■ K. some were galloping backwards and forwards on tlie brows of the sloping mountains, with their flowing manes and bushy tails streaming in the wind. Caverns witliout number are to be seen in the rocks, on either side of the river ; many of them of very great depth and dimensions, and the sluipes of the rocks were often picturesque. But on our way back, the scene was changed ; it was dreary .'ind for- bidding winter ; nothing was to be seen but leaf- less forests, and snow-clad hills, with scarcely an animal to attract attention, except a w^olf or a fox which now and then crossed our path, or an eagle or vulture Avaiching their prey about rapids, where open water was still to be seen. The animals had now retreated for shelter to the thick woods, so that we were more than once on short allowance; on these emergencies we had to regale ourselves on wolf's flesh, and were sometimes glad to get that to satisfy the cravings of hunger. AVe required no stimulants to sharpen our appetites." M'Kenzie had a threefold object in view by leaving his people, and returning to this place at such a season : first, to see some of the principal Snake chiefs, whom he liad not spoken with about the peace between them and the Nez Perces; secondly, to examine the country ; and lastly, to ascertain the state of the navigation up the south branch, with a view to future operations. The two former of these objects were accomplished. The • '■it' I M'KENZIE SETS OUT AGAIX. 205 pccaco was settled .as far as possible between parties living so remote from each other. The result, however, must ever be doubtful. After a short respite of only seven days at Nez Perces, allowing himself scarcely time to repose and recount his adventiu'es, this indefatigable man set out anew, through ice and snow, to ex- amine the state of the na\igation in the Snake country by the south branch. For this purpose, he and his handful of Canadians, six in nmnber, embarking on board of a barge, left Fort Nez Perces, and proceeded up Lewis River. The turbulent natives on both sides the stream, notwithstanding his late return from their foes, suffered him to j^ass through this channel unmolested. After a voyage of two months, the boat, with four of the men, returned to this place ; while M'Kenzie and the other two pushed forward on the precarious adven- ture of reaching the hunters, a distance of twenty days' travel, through a country where it had often been asserted that " less than fifty men could not set a foot with safety." M'Kenzie's letter, by return of the boat, was dated, "Point Successful, Head of the Narrows, April loth, 1819." He stated that, "The passage by water is now proved to be safe and practicable for loaded boats, without one single carrying place or portage ; therefore, the doubtful question is set at rest for ever. Yet from the force of the current, and the frequency of rapids, it may still [ ' Mf'p.f I -I f I ?; .1 1 '.•i IS ■)! At ' ;;5 : ''; ''il ■lit'' r ' • til i.i> 20G Mckenzie's letter. be advisable, and perhaps preferable, to continue the land transport, while the business in this quarter is carried on upon a small scale." He tlien goes on to observe, " We liad often recourse to the line;" and then adds, "There are two places with bold cut rocks on either side the river, where the gi'eat body of water is compressed within a narrow compass, wdiich may render those parts doubtful during the floods, owing to rocks and whirlpools ; but there are only two, and neither of them are long."' He then concludes his letter wdth these words, " I am noAV about to commence a very doubtful and dangerous undertaking, and shall, I fear, have to adopt the habits of the owl, roam in the night and skulk in tlie day, to avoid our enemies. But if my life is spared, I will be at the river Skam-naugh, with my people and returns, by the 5 th of June. Hasten, therefore, the outfit, with some additional hands, if possible, to that place. A strong escort will be advisable, and caution the person you may send in charge, to be at y.ll times, both day and night, on his guard." After performing the annual trip to Fort George, the brigade, on its return to the interior, reached this place on the loth of May: nearly a month eai'lier than usual. As soon, therefore, as the inlanders took their departure, I set about forw\ard- ing the Snake supplies. Accompanying the brigade was a small party of fifteen men, intended for the Snakes, to strengthen M'Kenzie's party. Aug- OVER-CONFIDENCE ITS RESULTS. 207 meriting t ,is small party to the number of twenty- six from my own establishment, I placed the whole under the charge of a Mr. Kittson, an apprentice- clerk from Canada; a novice in the country, but a smart fellow. With all possible haste, Mr. Kittson and his men set off with the Snake outfit to meet M'Kenzie and iiis party at the river Skam-naugh, according to appointment. On the departure of the partj^, I handed Mr. Kittson written instruc- tions, as he was a new hand, and cautioned him in every possible manner against the thieving pro- pensities of the natives along the lines. But Kittson, full of confidence and life, thought all this caution unnecessary, and swore that " all the Indians on the Continent would neither steal his horses nor anything else." " I am glad to hear it," said I. " Oh ! I defy them," said he ; and saying so, we shook hands and parted. The task and responsibility of venturing into a new and danger- ous part of the country, among hostile savages, with loads of property, was a perilous undertaking for the most experienced person ; much more so was it for a person like Kittson, a perfect stranger, and who had never received a charge of the kind before. Yet all went on well until the party had got to the territories of the Snakes ; a ground which is ever exceedingly suspicious, as lying between two con- tending nations. Too much care could not be taken in keeping a sharp look out, none knowing when, or from which side, the danger might first show itself. V. I ii mf i 1 i 'I . M 208 HORSES STOLEN. i" mj W 1 ln,^p n \ .'I, W lii t I lt>; 'W '! '■ 'iM ! !:i '-4' is IE lift; ,:l '^ .1 ■. ti hi M' li I fi,: fin t- if'. u .; Seeing no traces of Indians, Mr. Kittson allowed himself to be influenced l>y the opinion of his men, ever ready to despise danger in order to avoid watching at night. The whole party, therefore, in full confidence and security, laid themselves down one night to enjoy the comforts of repose. In the darkness of the night, however, hearing neighing and a noise among the horses, the i)arty started up, half asleep, half awake, and rushing to where they had been feeding, discovered the thieves in the act of unhobbling them ; but in the darkness the villains got off, and in their retreat succeeded in carrying off twelve horses. The evil was now beyond remedy; though not fatal to the expedition, as there still remained enough to carry the pro- perty ; but the men, as a just punishment for their negligence, had to trudge on foot. From the encamj)ment of the stolen horses, the party advanced, taking the utmost care to watch every night. One day, however, they found them- selves in a beautiful open valley, skirted by moun- tains, and not seeing any natives — for these sly marauders are never to be seen — and as their horses were fagged, they Avere willing to let them graze for a few hours at large in the meadow, around their little camp. The party being fatigued, particu- larly those on foot, very inconsiderately laid them- selves down, and in a few minutes they were over- powered with that heavy sleep which their wearied travelling so much demanded. They had not been ll^li LOSS AND RECOVERY OF HORSES. 209 long in this state, before a noise of " Hoo, hoo ! hoc, hoo ! " sounding in their ears, awoke them ; when tliey found their horses were all gone. Three of that banditti wlio at all seasons of the year infest the skirts of the frontiers on the Snake side, had been, as they always are, watching from the adjacent hills the movements of passengers ; they had crawled and concealed themselves among the long grass, until they reached the horses, then laying hold of one each, they mounted, and driving the others before them, were beyond our people's reach before they could get their eyes well open ! No words can depict the anxiety of our little band, with much property on their hands, in an enemy's country, a. stitute of provisions, and deprived of hope itself ! Two days and nights passed, and they had come to no decision ; but on the third day, about noon, while they were pondering on the step they were next to take, a cloud of dust was seen ap- proaching from afar. Concluding that the party must be enemies, they made a hasty breastwork with their goods, and, with their arms in their hands, waited their arrival in a state of anxious forbodings ; what must have been their joy on seeing a party of our own hunters appear, driving before them the very horses which had been the cause of their unhappiness. M'Kenzie, having arrived at the river Skam- naugh at tlie time appointed, and not meeting with either men or supplies from this place, as he ex- p I 1 I i h ! :> t , ''4 1 mi tmi 'III!*! 1 t ! it' \l \i" ('' ii> i!i ^: \ ;i ^ ' '^ ;• r ^ m ji r " 210 THIEVES TAKEN. pectecl, despatclied ten men to ascertain the cause of the delay. Two days after these ten men liad left their Bourgeois, in passing through a defile of the moimtains they very unexpectedly met the thieves face to face ; recocrnisinf:^ the horses as belong-in or to the whites, and seeing the Indians take to fliglit to avoid the.n, they were confirmed in their con- jectures, and accordingly determined on following them. The chace lasted for upwards of two hours, when the thieves, seeing their efforts to get oflf were fruitless, turned round in order to sell tlieir lives as dearly as possible. In such rencontres among themselves life is generally forfeited ; tliey therefore boldly faced their pursuers, althougli three times their number, and fought desperately wliile they had an arrow remaining. One of them was shot by our people, another was taken, and the third, although severely wounded, made liis escape among the bushes. One of our hunters was wounded also. After the affray, the party wheeled about, and made for Kittson and his forlorn band, drivinir all the horses before them. It was their approach that caused the cloud of dust, already noticed ; first so suspicious, and afterwards so pleasing. Kittson's party, now augmented to six and thirty men, raised camp, and set out once more with light- some hearts. Two days had not, however, passed over their heads, when tliey had another fright. While they were encamped one night on a small KITTSON JOINS MCKENZIE. 211 river, where everything around indicated security, two more horse thieves were detected in the night busy unhobhUng their horses. In this instance, the people on watch were more fortunate ; they got hold of them, and kept tlie rascals in safe custody until daylight ; but the whites had suftered no loss, and therefore Mr. Kittson had the clemencv to let them go unhurt. Each of the fellows had a qun-er, containing from fifty to sixty arrows, several pairs of shoes, and long lines for securing horses. The party had now reached that inauspicious spot where some of the unfortunate men belonging to Reid's party were murdered in 1813. There the cares of our people were not diminished at beholding some bands of banditti of the most suspicious appearance hovering about ; but the whites, being on their guard, w^ere allowed to pass unmolested. Next day Mr. Kittson and party, after all their mishaps, arrived safely and in good spirits at the river Skam-naugh, and joined Mr. M'Kenzie with his whole band ; for he had contrived to assemble and bring together the gTcater part of his wayward and perverse Iroquois. Here Kittson delivered o^er his charge, and receiving in return the Snake fm-s, bent his course back again to this place, where he arrived on the 7tli July, 1819. On his way back, however, lie had a very narrow escape from a war- party ; but got off with the loss of only two men, who fell a sacrifice at the first onset of the savages. P 2 %. i '. 212 BRIGHTER rROSPECTS. if,i'4 rfflji l"^ ' \\''^' ,.;! t'l! i« Had not the troubles in the Fort George depart- ment diminished the usual quantity of furs tliere, we should have had, notwithstanding the defection of the Iroquois, a handsome augmentation to our returns this year. Tlie Snake expedition turned out well; it made up for all deficiencies elsewhere, and gave a handsome surplus besides. M'Kenzie's party was now augmented by tlie addition of Kittson and his men, who had no sooner delivered up the Snake furs at this place than they returned to join him. The natives and hunting-ground being also familiar to our hunters, were circumstances, as far as we could judge, that warranted our most sanguine anticipa- tions as to the future. In his letter to me, M'Kenzie states, that, " although the natives are at present in a very unsettled state, yet if the con- templated peace succeeds, I hope that our success in this quarter next year will come up to the expectations of every reasonable man." With these remarks, we shall close the narrative for the present year. t; V:: CHAPTER VII. Perseverance rewarded — Change of policy — Kittson's return— ilode of building — Trading fort in the Indian countries— Fort Noz Porces — View of Fort Nez Perces — Change in the conduct of the natives — Our Snake friends— Prccautiona-M'Kcnzie and his three men —Troublesome visitors — Perilous situation — A bold step — The powder-keg — Situation of the whites — Mysterious movement — The war-party — Manoeuvres— Hopeless situation of the whites— Indian attempts fail — Departure of the war-party — Two white men murdered— The hiding-place — Joyful meeting of friends — Leave Friendly Island — A savage rebuked — New dangers — The fishing camp — Distracted state of the country — The second retreat for safety — The peace— Woody Point — Chief's remarks on the peace — The whites leave their hiding-place a second time — M'Kcnzie's views — A courier — Discouraging rumoui*s — AVar-parties — The great battle — Snakes and Blaokfeefc — Abandon Woody Point — Whites at their destination — Opera- tions of a trapping party — Watchfulness — The camp — A trapper'a life — Fort Ncz Perces' troubles — The seven dead bodies — Alarm- ing crowd — All hands at their post — Quinze'-sous — Phrenzy of the savages— Savage habits — Lamentation — Tum-a-tapum the chief — Harangues — Peace-ofFering — Bodies removed — Second party — A savage in despair — The tumultuous miilec — Medicine man shot — Murderer shot — Three men shot— Great concourse — Whites take to their bastions— Guns pointed — Forbearance of the whites — Council — Smoking— Loud talking — Order restored — Prince, the wounded Indian— The gun — The axe — Indian perfidy — Prince and Melochc — The outrage — Prince shot. The result of the Snake expedition put an end to the sharp contest which had for some years past divided the councils of Fort George. i i 214 CIIANGE OF POLICY. i ■! !.,,l l'\ i:,. I !!•■ !. i ?>^^! No sooner -svas M'Kenzie's success in the Snake country knoMii, than his opponents were loud in liis praises. It was j)leasing to see the council of Fort George this year enter so warmly and approve so strongly of our measures, in having established Fort Nez Percds, and gained so pro- mising a footing in the Snake country. Wo have noticed Kittson's return to join the Snake expedition ; but, before taking up the thread of our future narrative, v/e propose to give tlio reader a description and view of Fort Nez Percds, and we shall then conduct him to IM'Kenzie's camp, and give him an account of Indian life in these parts. For the purpose of protection, as well as of trade among Indians, the custom is, to have each establishment surrounded with an inclosure of pickets some twelve or fifteen feet high. This inclosiu'e is dignified with the name of fort ; +he natives have free ingress and egress at all times, and within its walls all the business of traffic is transacted. A little more precaution was, however, necessary at the Nez Percds station, on account of the many warlike tribes that infest the country. Instead of round pickets, the palisades of Fort Nez Percds were all made of sawn timber. For this purpose, wood of lai'ge size, and cut twenty feet long, was sawed into pieces of two and a half feet broad by six inches thick. With these FORT NEZ rEl?CLS. 215 ponderous planks the ostablishnient was surrounded, having on the top a range of btdustrades four feet higli, wliich served the double purpose of ramparts and loop-holes, and was smooth, to ^)re^'ent the natives scaling the walls. A strong gallery, live feet broad, extended all around. At each angle was placed a large reservoir sutticient to hold two hundred gallons of water, as a security against fire; the element we most dreaded in the designs of the natives. Inside of this wall were built ranges of store-houses and dwelling-houses for the hands ; and in the front of these buildings was another wjdl, twelve feet high, - of sawn timber also, with port holes and slip doors, which divided the build- ings from the open square inside. Thus, should the Indians at any time get in, they would see nothing but a Avail before them on all sides ; the}^ could have no intercourse with the people in the fort, unless by their consent, and would therefore find themselves in a prison, and in- finitely more exposed to danger than if they had been on the outside. Besides the ingenious con- struction of the outer gate, Avhich opened and shut by a pully, two double doors secured the entrance ; and the natives were never admitted within the walls, except when specially invited on important occasions. All trade with them was carried on by means of an aperture in the wall, eighteen inches square, secured by an iron door, and communicating with the trading shop ; we stand- il ildi !i ill ,1 [!' 21G TRADING WITH INDIANS. I I ! ing on the inside, and the Indians on the out- side. On all other occasions, excepting trade, we mixed with them outside ; diilering in this, as in every other respect, from all the other trading- posts in the Indian country. Among other difKculties, it was not the least, after the fort was built, to succeed in bringing the Indians to trade in the maimer we had fixed upon for the security of the place ; although they had every convenience allowed them, such as a house at the gate, fire, tobacco, and a man to attend thtm at all hours. It was a long time before they got recon- ciled to our plan. " Are the whites afraid of us ? If so," said they, " we will leave our arms outside." "No,"said I, "if we had beenafraid of you we should not have come among you." " Are the whites afraid we will steal anything ? " " No," said I, " but your young men are foolish." " That's true," said they. AVe persisted in the plan, and they of necessity had to submit. Excluding the Indians, although contrary to Mr. M'Kenzie's opinion, ultimately an- swered so well, that it ought to be adopted wher- ever the natives are either hostile or troublesome. Our weapons of defence were composed of four pieces of ordnance, from one to three pounds, besides ten wall-pieces or swivels, sixty stand of muskets and bayonets, twenty boarding pikes, and a box of hand-grenades. The fort was defended by four strong wooden towers or bastions, and a cohorn, or small mortar, above the gate ; it was, therefore, at FUllT NKZ PEUCES COMPLETKD. 217 oiico the strongest and most eoniplete fort "vvcst of the llocky Mountahis, and might bo called the Ciib- raltar of Columbia. To construct and finish, in so sliort a time, an establisliment so strong and conipaet in all its parts was no ordinary under- taking ; by industry and perseverance, however, the task was accomplished. Thus, in the short period of a few months, as if by enchantnient, the savage disposition of the Indians was either soothed or awed ; a stronghold had arisen in the desert, and the British banner floating over it, proudly proclaimed it the mistress of u vast territory: it was a triumph of British energy and enterprise, of civilisation over barbarism. During the course of our proceedings, a constant tide of visitors, from quarters the most remote, flowed in, to satisfy their curiosity concerning our establishment ; among others were the turbulent lords of the Falls. Whether their barbarity was soothed by the compliment of a resource of this kind among them, whether they felt gratified by our embassy to conciliate their enemies and do away with the evils of war, it is difficult to say ; but a visible reform was now very obvious in their de- portment to the whites : they invariably v/ent and came in the most exemplary manner. Having given the reader a brief description of Fort Nez Perce's, and noticed the salutary effect our establishment had on the conduct of the natives, I now, according to promise, resume the narrative m,^ij»Amm^u.z: i >i m U3 ■ :t !i'. . ii: '> 218 TRADE WITH THE SNAKES. of operations in the Snake couiitry. As soon as the annual supply of goods conveyed by Kittson had reached M'Kenzie s camp, the latter, knowing the character of his people, and that the moment they had their supplies in their own possession they would be bartering and trafficking every article away with the natives, in order to guard against this difficulty, not only deferred the distribution among the party until the return of Kittson and the men who had to convey the furs to this place, but resolved on keeping the supplies entire until they reached their winter-quarters ; when every man would have his equipment, and winter supjjlie.s, at the time required. The conduct of the Iroquois last year had taught M'Kenzie this lesson ; i\.ii this measure was also a check against desertion : their supplies being before them, encouraged and stimulated all to a perseverance in well-doing. It was a plan, however, that subjected the person in charge to the risk of life as well as of property. Had the Snakes been of a character to respect pro- perty when once in their own hands, he might have distributed the whole, and left every man to take care of his own ; but the very reverse being the case, he was compelled to adopt the plan of taking care of it for them, until they reached theu' winter- quarters. Therefore as soon as Kittson, and the men required to escort the furs to this place, set off, M'Kenzie was left with only three men in charge of all the property ; for although the Iroquois had 'I HOSTILE ATTITUDE OF THE SNAKES. 219 returned to their duty, they were absent at tlie tmie, collecting tlieir liorses and traps which they bad left and squandered away among the. Indians ; but they were expected back hourly. Thus situated, and the Iroquois not arriving at the appointed time, M'Kenzie and his three men erected a small breast- work, secured their property, and guarding it, waited with anxiety the arrival of succour. Two days after this unavoidable division of our people, a very suspicious party of the mountain Snakes aj^peared at their little camp. They were very importunate, and with the view of turning their barbarity into friendship, M'Kenzie had given them some trifles to get rid of them ; but the kind treatment of our friends was construed into fear, and only stimulated the Indians to demand more. Soon after, other parties equally audacious arri^-ed, but no Iroquois ! The hostile attitude and threats of the natives were now beyond endurance : they attempted to get over the breastwork, to push our people back, and to steal all that they could lay bands upon ! Up to this period our people had stood on the outside of their property, but at this critical moment M'Kenzie and his men, gi'asping their guns, sprung over the breastwork, lighted a match, and placing a keg fuU of gunpowder between them and their enemies, boldly determined to defend their property, or die. At this critical movement, the Indians, taken by surprise, fell back a little; when H !. [Ii i U r: 220 RED FEATHER AND HIS BAND. :'i :« ( I M'Kenzie, with perhaps more courage than prudence, dared them to renew their threats ! While the fiite of our little band hung as by a thread, the savages who menaced them took to fliglit, without a word ! The first impression was that they were panic struck, from the dread of the powder ; it was then apprehended that they me- ditated some stratagem : the respite, however, gave our friends time to reflect. As soon as they considered it safe to look about them, they perceived on the opposite side of the river a war-party of the Shaw-ha-ap-tens, consist- ing of two hundred men, all having fire-arms, and mounted on horseback. On their arrival they assembled in a tumultuous group on the beach. It was the Red Feather and his band, who had been ill disposed at the peace. Our friends were at no loss to account for the sudden and mysterious departure of the Snakes. But still their situation was not the more secure, for they had as much to fear from the one party as from the other : although the Shaw-ha-ap-tens would have respected the whites on their own lands, yet they had no mercy to expect in an enemy's country. The appearance of this warlike cavalcade might have chilled the boldest heart : their gestures, their yelling, and whooping were truly horrible. The Indians called to our people to cross over and give ther-ii a smoke. At the same time it was 1 m PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. 221 evident that they were making every preparation to take advantage of them while on the water. This invitation, however, not being complied with, they held a council, with a view, it was supposed, of crossing over themselves. Our j^eople on perceiving this strengthened their little fortification, and having four guns to each man, they were determined at least on selling their lives dearly. The nati\es in tlie meantime jDlunged into the river with their steeds, but were forced back again. They plunged again and again, but as often were com- pelled to return from the strength of the current. Their consultations were frequent, and the brandish- ing of their arms indicated their bloody intentions. After capering along the beach on their chargers for some time, they at length disappeared, and our party saw them no more. On their way back, towards the Blue Mountains, however, the Indians unfortunately fell upon the trail of Kittson and his party, and before he had time to get to a strong- hold or concentrate his people, the savages overtook his rear, and shot and scalped two of his men. After the first onset, they wheeled about and got off clear. No sooner had the war- party disappeared than M'Kenzie and his men withdrew, with their pro- perty, to a hiding-place. Crossing over a channel of the river, they got upon an island, and took up their abode in the thick woods. From this retreat, they could, unperceived, distinguish the savages passing and re-passing in bands. They had, io I' ^1 V, Hi '■) I J < i ' I M= !! I \ I 1 S { < I 'f m If" il: ! I. 222 A FORTUNATE MEETING. ' ) nr-:'! I\i r ti\ I ;l ' ■!. i' ■ ii 1)1 however, to avoid making a fire during tlie daytime, as the smoke would have discovered their retreat. In this isLind our friends remained twenty-two days, before Kittson and Ins party got back to them. The very next day after, fifteen of the twenty-five prodigal Iroquois joined them. One had been killed in a scufile with the natives, two had deserted, and the other seven had joined the Snakes ! The meeting with our friends was a joyful one, though each party had its troubles and its adventures to recount : but such is the life of an Indian trader, that the most trying scenes are no sooner passed away than they are forgotten. Our friends now set about leaving the island to proceed on their journey. Our trappars and hunters being all mustered, amounted to seventy- five men. This was the number that composed the second adventure into the Snake country : still it was twenty -five less than the number that had been promised Mr. M'Kenzie. Advancing on their journey, during the first few days they saw several parties of the banditti, and, among others, some of those very villains who had threatened to rob M'Kenzie, and his three men, were recognised ! Mr. M'Kenzie, therefore, singled one out, and, after addressing him at some length, took hold of him, and asked him if he was as brave a man that day, as he was upon the former occasion ! The fellow was mute. M'Kenzie then shaking him rather roughly, NEGOTIATIONS FOR PEACE. 223 gave him a slap in the face, and left him an object of derision to the bystanders. The Indians now had changed their tone. In their progress M'Kenzie and his party came to a very formidable camp, of about eight hundred liuts and tents. The Indians were engaged chiefly in fishing for salmon ; and being but indifferently disposed towards the whites, our friends passed the night witliout sleep, and at dawn of day left the suspicious ground, to look out for a more defensible spot. They were anxious to have a parley with the chiefs, and therefore they took up their position on an island where they would be secure. It was thought imprudent to proceed without having an interview with the chiefs of the different tribes as they advanced. After this interview, in which it was explained that the present visit of the wliites among the Indians was with the double object of making peace between themselves and the Nez Percys, and of supplying their wants, the chiefs were informed that as the Nez Perces had made overtures of peace, they, on tlieir part, it was hoped, would not withhold their consent. When the word peace was mentioned, one of the chiefs smiled : " Peace with the Shaw-ha-ap-tens ! " said he ; then looking M'Kenzie steadfastly in the face, and pointing to the current of the river, " Do you see that current? Stop it then !" exckimed the great man. " Tliat 's im- possible," rejoined JVPKenzie. " So is peace with the I I nfii 224 THE OLD CHIEF APPEASED. !;ir 1 r 1 u (' ; ■ Shaw-lia-ap-tens ; tliey are at this moment on our lands, and perhaps before night, my wives and my children will be scalped by them !" M'Kenzio soothed the old chief, and assured liim ^ that the whites would do their utmost to promote peace. He told him that the whites were willing, if encouraged, to open a trade with the great Snake nation ; a people whose lands, by lying so remote, must, at all times, be ill provided with every necessary, as well as the more essential part of their warlike imple- ments. He added to these professions a few trifling- presents, which left a favourable impression. This done, our friends prepared to change their quarters. It was not M'Kenzie's intention, on setting out, to have visited these Indians, or to have entered on the peace question at all : he wished to defer these points until he had first conveyed and placed his men on the field of their labours ; but having thus unex- pectedly met with them, and apprehending that he might not find them so conveniently at any other time, he resolved on taking them, tribe by tribe, en his way, and settling the business at once. As our people advanced, several bands were met, and the same routine of peace-making gone through. One day, as they journeyed, they fell in with a friendly band of the Snakes, who gave them intelli- gence that a grand war-party of the Indians, inha- biting the east side of the mountains, were a short distance before them. While these Indians and our people were in communication, a courier from "^ ii. DISCORDANT HUMOURS. 225 behind overtook them, with the news that two war- parties of the Nez Perces were also at their heels, (Ond had killed several of the Snakes on the preceding day ; thus verifying the words of the chief Indian report is always to be received with great caution ; yet our people thought it well to make a halt. Crowds of the banditti were emerging fi-om all quarters, and fleeing towards their strongholds in the mountains ; a sure sign that some commotion was apprehended. These manoeuvres convinced our people that there must be some truth in the reports. Under these circumstances they took up their stand in a small wooded point, partly surrounded by the river ; resolving to wait there for the present. The friendly little band that had communicated the information to our people, notwithstanding the most urgent entreaties, would not remain with them ; but hastened off, preferring the security of the forests to the slender protection of the whites. Several other parties of the Snakes, however, came and encamped along with our people, depending on them for sup- port : other parties passed and repassed, without stopping. The Nez Perces behind, the Black Feet before, and the hostile Snakes everywhere about, our people were completely surrounded. It was therefore beyond human foresight to see a way to avoid such a combination of evils as threatened them on all sides. The Nez Percys, finding that their enemies the Black Feet intervened between them and the Q llfiKI U i I 226 THE BATTLE. ' ;! . ' I kU f i', ly i'f ! IHIIi ',; (in Snakes, wheeled about in another direction, and our people heard nothing more of them. But the Snakes and Black Feet had a severe battle, which ended in favour of the former : thirty Black Feet, and more Snakes, strewed the well-contested field. As soon as the vanquished retreated, the Snakes paraded about, exhibiting their trophies within sight of our friends. Victory stimulates to revenge ; the Snakes, therefore, assumed a high tone ; they came in crowds from their hiding-places ; and join- ing the victorious party in their scalp-dancing and scalp-singing, formed a host of at least five or six thousand. Their huts, their tents, altogether re- sembled a city in an uproar ; and their scattered fires and illuminations, during the nights, exhibited an awful spectacle to our encircled friends : their shouts and yelling, their gestures and frantic move- ments, were very terrifying. After eighteen days' delay at Woody Point, the natives moved off almost in a body ; and from tlie spies which we kept hovering about these Indians, we obtained seasonable advice that the hostile tribes had retired ; consequently, our party might jiass on in safety. Thus by a combination of fortu- nate circumstances they were again relieved from danger. Having left their recent abode, accompanied liy a friendly chief and his band, our people proceeded through an open and delightful country. During this pai't of their journey, they crossed the spot v\ m I iii A COMPARISON OF UEADS. 227 where the groat battle had Ijeeu recently fought, and saw in many places putrid carcases and human bones scattered about. And here the chief that ac- companied our party pointed out the skulls of their enemies — " Look at tliese," said ho to M'Kcnziej " the heads of the Black Feet are much smaller than those of tlie Snakes, and not so round." They also crossed innumerable trails, on which the tracks were still quite fresh ; but at that period all ap- peared to be quiet. After thirty-three days' hazardous travelling, reckoning from the time Kittson joined the party on the island, they arrived at theu' hunting-groimd. Hero the men were equipped for the winter, and commenced hunting. M'Kenzie intended, should the natives prove peaceably inclined, and the trapping get on smoothly among them, to spend part of the winter in examining the country further to the south. He was likewise anxious to have an interview with tho principal chiefs of the Snake nation, not having liitherto seen them. In his letter to me, dated "Black Bears Lake, Sept. 10, 1819," he remarked: " We have passed a very c^nxious and troublesome summer. War-parties frequent ; in dangers often ; but still we do not despair. Time and perse- verance will do much. You will make no aii-ange- ments for forwai'ding our supplies ; we have had enough of that akeady. I will accompany the spring returns, and try to be at Fort Nez Percds by the 20th of next June." This letter was Q 2 I i i' Ml 11^; F ?l N il ji. ! ■ it: m 'I ■') 228 TRAPPTNO IN PARTIES. H, 'lr!'l r' Iv M 1 Ml i. Fi i li i I ■ii brought me by an Indian of the Falls, at the latter end of October. We have now given the reader some idea of an Indian trader's life in these parts ; and by way of following up the subject a little further, wc shall describe how trapping with a large party is generally carried on among Indians. A safe and secure spot, near wood and water, is first selected for the camp. Here the chief of the party resides with the property. It is often exposed to danL;er^ or sudden attack, in the absence of the trappers, and requires a vigilant eye to guard against the lurking savages. The camp is called head quarters. From hence all the trappers, some on foot, some on horseback, according to the dis- tance they have to go, start every morning, in small parties, in all directions, ranging the distance of some twenty miles around. Six traps is the allow- ance for each hunter ; but to guard against wear and tear, the complement is more frequently ten. These he sets every night, and visits again in tlie morning ; sometimes oftener, according to dis- tance, or other circumstances. The beaver taken in the traps are always conveyed to the camp, skinned, stretched, dried, folded up with the hair in the in- side, laid by, and the flesh used for food. No sooner, therefore, has a hunter visited his traps, set them again, and looked out for some other place, than he returns to the camp, to feast, and enjoy the pleasures of an idle day. 1 4 DANGER AND UNCKUTAINTY. 229 There is, however, iniicli anxiety and danger in going through the ordinary routine of a trapper's duty. For as tlie enemy is generally lurking about among the rucks and hiding-places, watching an opportunity, the hunter has to keep a constant look- out ; and the gun is often in one hand, while the trap is in the other. But when several are together, which is often the case in suspicious places, one-half set the traps, and the other half kee[) guard over them. Yet notwithstanding all their precautions, some of them fall victims to Indian treachery. The camp remains stationary while two-thirds of the trappers find beaver in the vicinity ; but when- ever the beaver becomes scarce, the camp is removed to some more favourable spot. In this manner, the pai'ty keeps moving from place to place, during the whole season of hunting. Whenever serious danger is apprehended, all the trappers make for the camp. Were we, however, to calculate according to num- bers, the prospects from such an expedition would be truly dazzling : say, seventy-five men, with each six traps, to be successfully employed during five months ; that is, two in the spring, and three in the fall, equal to 131 working days, the result would be 58,950 beaver ! Practically, however, the case is veiy different. The apprehension of danger, at all times, is so great, that three-fourths of their time is lost in the necessary steps taken for their own safety. There is also another serious drawback unavoidably accompanying every large K> ur; A: i Jlr ii a r' im-i I H'0\ '.'■( mm liii !'!'' I I 230 TRAPS AND THEIR PRODUCE. party. Tlic Leaver is a tiniid animal ; tlio least noise, therefore, niade about its haunt will keep it from coming out for nights together ; and noise is unavoidable when the party is large. But when the party is small, the hunter has a chance of Ijcing more or less successful. Indeed, were the nature of the ground such as to admit of the trappere moving about in safety, at all times, and alo le, six men, with six traps each, would, in the same space of time, and at the same rate, kill as many beavers — say 47 H) — as the whole seventy-five could bo expected to do ! And yet the evil is without a remedy ; for no small party can exist in these parts. Hence the reason why beavei's are so numerous. Having conducted M'Kenzie and his party to their hunting-ground, we shall take our leave of them, while we notice the occurrences at Fort Nez Percys ; and then, in due time, we will take up the subject of the Snake expedition again. Our last notice of this place was the effect our establishment had on the conduct of the Indians. Yet, with all their submission, it was more apparent than real ; for I have never experienced more anxiety and vexation than among these people. Not an hour of the day passed, but some insolent fellow, and fre- quently fifty at a time, interrupted us, and made us feel our unavoidable dependence upon their caprice. " Give me a gun," said one ; " I want ammunition," said another ; a third wanted a knife, a flint, or something else. Give to one, you must give to all. LIl'K AT FORT NEZ PERCl^iti. 231 Refuse them, tliey iinniedlately got angry, tokl us to leave their hiiuls, and threatened to prevent our people from going about their duties. Their constant theme was — " Why are the whites so stingy with their goods ? They hate us, or they would be more liberal." A fellow raps at the gate, calling out, " I want to trade !" — when you attend his call ho laughs in your face, and has nothing to sell. In short, they talk of notliing but war, think of no- thing but scalp-dancing, horse- racing, aiul gambling; and when tired of these, idleness is tueir delight. On every little hill they are to be s-cen all day in groups, with a paper lookin:^-glas9 in one han'/I and a paint-brush in the other. Half their ti e is spent at the toilet, or sauntering about our e; cablishment. lu their own estimation they arj lae greatest uicn in the world. The whites who labour they look upon as slaves, and call them by no otlier name. I had, therefore, to lay down a rule in all my deal- ings with thjm. However sudkn the call might be, I never obeyed it until I had walked, back- wards and forwards, across the fort twice. Nothing then surprised me, or rufHed my temper ; and I oft,en found the benetii o^ the plan. These Indians, witli all their independence, are far fiom being a happy people. They live in a constant state of ^.nxiety. Every hostile movement about the frontier excites alarm, and sets the whole countr} on the qui vive. We have already noticed that a band of the i -iM ^(?i ''i 1 i' l\Wli 232 SOME STRAGGLERS SLAIN. f *' ,! ": h ■i: 1' i.; '' ' 1 % ' ,n >i» Shaw-ha-ap-tens, on its return from a war expe- dition against the Snakes, killed Delornie and Jeanvene, two of Kittson's men, on tlieir way to this place with the Snake returns : they also killed several of the Snakes. One evil often leads to another ; for the Shaw-ha-ap-tens had no sooner got back than a Snake party were at their heels ; but, happening to fall in with a few stragglers frolicking among the bushes and gathering berries, who belonged to the Wallawalla camp, not three miles from our fort, they killed one man, four women, and two children ; then re-crossed the mountains, and got off clear, carrying along with them the scalps of their victims, and two young women and a man as slaves. The two captive women, as well as the man, being of some rank, it caused a tremendous com- motion at this place. The first intimation we had of this sanguinary affair was the next morning, after the deed had been committed. Going on the gallery as soon as I got up, according to usual custom, I perceived, at no great distance, a dense crowd of people, some on foot, some on horseback, making for the fort, in the most frantic and dis- orderly manner, and filling the air with shrieks and lamentations. It struck me the instant I saw them, that it was a war -party ; calling therefore all hands together, every man was-placed at his post, and we accordingly waited their approach : we had only ten men about the fort at the time. «,' CROWD OF PHRENZIED SAVAGES. 233 As they drew near, the more frantic and tumul- tuous they became ; so I inspected the men's arms ; and finding one fellow, named Quinze-sous, pale and agitated, with his gun still unloaded, and fearing his cowardly conduct might influence others — for they were all more or less panic-struck — I drew the iron ramrod out of his gun, and giving him a raj^ or two over the head with it, drove him off the gallery and locked him up in one of the stores ; then re- turning, I promised a reward to every one of the others that would behave well. By this time the crowd had reached the fort gate, and I saw, for tlie first time, that it was no war-party, but our own Indians ! Yet seeing them carry a number of dead bodies, the affair appeared still more mysterious. And as Indians often carry false colours to decoy the unwary, Ave were determined to be on our guard. Friends or foes we were prepared to receive them. The number might have been four hundred in all ; but they were a mixture of men and women. It may be asked, where were all our guns, our bastions, and strong fort, if a rabble of Indians gave us so much anxiety ? Our object, we answer, was not merely defence, but peace and friendship. We could have easily dispersed the crowd, few as we were ; but one shot from our guns would have sealed our ruin and that of our friends in the Snake country. The wliites never oppose force to force, but in the last extremity. When the crowd reached tlie fort gate the seven f f ' i i ! ' i I n 'It 'I f (>■ ':. !' ' 234 LAMENTATIONS OF SAVAGES. bodies were laid on the ground ; the weather being sultry, the bodies were much swollen and extremely offensive. This was no sooner done than the savage habit of cutting themselves, mingled with h'v/iing and shrieks of despair, commenced. The scene was horrible. Under such circum- stances sympathy for the living as well as the dead was excited, because their pain and sufferings must have been acute ; and this, as a matter of coui'se, increased their inclination to violent mourning. To have seen those savages streaming all over with blood, one would suppose they could never liave survived such acts of cruelty inflicted on them- selves ; but such wounds, although bad, are not dangerous. To inflict these wounds on himself, the savage takes hold of any part of his skin, between his forefinger and thumb, draws it out to the stretch, and then runs a knife through it, between the hand and the flesh, which leaves, when the skin resumes its former place, two unsightly gashes, resembling ball holes, out of which the blood issues freely. With such wounds, and sometimes others of a more serious nature, the near relations of the deceased completely disfigiu'e themselves. As soon as the bodies were laid on the ground, with their crimson-dyed garments, one of the chiefs, caHed by the Canadians " Gueule plat,"* called out to me, with an air of effrontery, " Come out here." The moment this call reached n.e, I felt a conflict * Flat-mouth. r \ TAM-A-TAP-L3rS HARANGUE. 235 between duty and inclination. Refuse the call I could not ; yet I obeyed it with reluctance, and pl':iost wished myself with Quinze-sous in the Stcre rather than where I was. Turnini:^ round to the sentinel at the door, I told him to lock the gate after me, and keep a sharp look out. The moment I appeared outside the gate, so horrible was the uproar, that it baffles all description. In- toxicated with wrath and savage rage, they re- sembled furies more than human beings ; and their ghastly, wild, and forbidding looks were all directed towards me, as if I had been the cause of their calamity. Tam-a-tap-um the chief then coming up to me, and pointing to one of the dead bodies, said, " You see my sister there ;" then uncovering the body to show the wounds, added, " tliat is a ball hole." " Tlie whites,'" said he again, " have mur- dered our wives and our children. They have given guns and balls to our enemies. Those very guns and balls have killed our relations.'' These words were no sooner uttered than they were repeated over and over again by the wliole frantic crowd ; who, hearing the chief, believed them to be true. Excitement was now at its height. Their gestures, their passionate exclamations, showed what was working within, and I expected every moment to receive a ball or an arrow. One word of interruption spoken by me at the critical mo- ment, in favour of the whites, might have proved fatal to myself. I therefore remained silent, watcli- )■ \ i."' 236 WOUNDS EXAMINED A PARLEY. I!; r^ r t t'l ing a favourable opportunity, and also examining closely the holes in the garments of the dead bodies. The holes T was convinced were made by arrows, and not by balls as the chief had asserted; but it remained for me to convince others when an opportunity offered. Every violent fit of mourning was succeeded, as is 'generally the case among savages, by a mo- mentary calm. As soon, therefore, as I perceived tlie rage of the crowd beginning to subside, and nature itself beginning to flag, I availed myself of the interval to speak in turn ; for silence then would have been a tacit acknowledgment of our guilt. I therefore advanced, r id taking the chief by tlie hand, said in a low tone of voice, as if overcome by grief, "My fiuend, what is all this ? Give me an explanation. You do not love the whites ; you have told me nothing yet." Tam-a-tap-um then turning to his people, beckoned to them with the hand to be silent ; entire silence was not to be expected. He then went over the whole affair from beginning to end. When the chief ended, and the people were in a listening mood, I sympathised with their misfortunes, and observed that the whites had been undeservedly blamed. "They are innocent," said I, " and that I can prove. Look at that," said I, pointing to an arrow wound, which no one could mistake ; " the wounds are those of arrows, not balls. Nor were the Snakes themselves so mucli to blame ; as we shall be able to show." SAVAGE FURY APPEASED. 237 At these assertions the chief looked angiy, and there was a buzz of disapprobation among the crowd ; but I told the chief to listen patiently until I had done. The chief then composed himself, and I proceeded. " After your solemn acquiescence in a peace between yourselves and the Snakes, through the influence of the whites, the Shaw-ha- ap-tens violated the second pledge by going again to war, across the Blue Mountains ; and not con- tent with having killed their enemies, they killed their friends also. They killed two of the whites. The Snakes in the act of retaliation have therefore made you all to mourn this day ; they have made the whites to mourn also. But your loss is less than ours ; your relations have l^een killed ; but still you have their bodies : that consolation is denied us. Our friends have been killed, but we know not where their bodies lie." These facts, neither the chief nor the crowd could gainsay. The chief, with a loud voice, explained what I had said to the listening multitude ; when they with one voice exclaimed, "It is true, it is true!'' Leaving the chief, I then entered the fort, and taking some red cloth, laid six inches of it on each body, as a token of sympathy ; then I told them to go and bury their dead. A loud fit of lamentation closed the scene. The bodies were then taken up, and the crowd moved off^, in a quiet and orderly manner. But the satisfaction we enjoyed at the departure 1: \.' I iti U 15^ ';/ /'/ .; H.' ' . Ill ■ 1 |i! (it ■ !H J ; ' ! ' M . Urn Unii i n I ■ i « !i ji'ifw'Hlli^ 238 AN INDIAN SHOOTS HLMSELF FOR GRIEF. of the savages was of short duration ; for they were scarcely out of sight, and I scarcely inside the door, when another band, related to those who had been killed, arrived at the fort gate, and tlie loud and clamorous scene of mourning was again renewed. Among this second crowd of visitors was a fellow dignified by the name of Prince, and brother to one of the young women who had been carried off by the Snakes. Prince encamped within fifty yards of the fort, and his tent was no sooner pitched than he began to chant the song of deatli. When an Indian resorts to this mode of mom-ning, it is a sure sign that " he has thrown his body away," as the Indians term it, and meditates self-destruction. Being told of Prince's resolution, I went to his tent to see him, and found him standing, with his breast leaning upon the muzzle of his giui ; his hair was dishevelled, and he was singing with great vehemence : he never raised his head to see who I was. I knew all was not right, and spoke to him ; but receiving no ansNver, I went away on my return to the fort. I liad scarcely advanced twenty yards from his tent, before I heard the report of a gun behind me, and turning back again, I found the unfortunate fellow lying on the ground weltering in his blood, his gmi partly under him. He was still breathing. The ball had entered his left breast, below the nipple, and came out near the backbone. The A MEDICINE- MAN SHOT. 23a wound was bleeding fi-eely, and he disgorged great quantities of blood. I went to the fort for some assistance, but on our return I expected that every moment would have been his lost ; however wo dressed his wound, and did wliat we could to allay his suffering. The Indians now assembled in gi'oat numbers, and were noisy and violent. In the lirst instance, they threw all the blame of the unfortunate allair on the whites ; but in their rage and violence, they quarrelled among themselves, and this new direction in their excitement removed the odium in some degree from the whites, and diverted tl^e tide of popular fury into another chaimel. During the afl'air, one of those unfortunate wretches called medicine-men happened to be sitting at the fort gate, when a brother of the man who had just shut hin)self went up to him, saying, •' You dog ! you have thrown your bad medicine on my brother, and he is dead ; but you shall not live," and in saying so, he shot him dead on the spot. The ball, after passing tlu'ough the man's body, went more than three inches into one of the fort palisades. I was standing on the gallery at the moment he was shot, and had it been on any other occasion but in the midst of a quarrel between the Indians, we certainly should have avenged his death on the spot ; fur tlie mur- dered man was an excellent Indian, and a sincere friend of the whites. The scene now assumed a threatening aspect. In i. III 1 11 1 m %\ ?^' ! i «4 }. ill I' I- < "H M i'i ,i mii^ 'fi'i ( ■^ iirAi n it=. 240 A SANGUINARY QUARREL. Guns, bows, arrows, and every missile that could be laid hold of, came into requisition ; and robes, fea- thers, bells, belts, and trinkets of every description, were rattling about in time savage style. The fellow wlio had just shot the medicine-man was shot in his turn, and before the chiefs arrived, or could get a hearing, three others were shot. The place appeared more like a field of battle than anything else ; for besides the five bodies that lay lifeless on the ^Tound, twice that number were desperately wounded. As soon as the deadly quarrel began, not know- ing the intent of the Indians, nor how it might end, I shut the gates, and kept as clear of the quarrel as possible. In the midst of the confusion, the Indians poured in from aU quarters, add- ing fuel to the flame ; and some of them in approaching the place, thinking it was a quarrel between the whites and themselves, fired a shot or two at the fort before they were aware of tlie mistake. This made us take to our bastions : our matches were lighted, guns pointed, and we our- selves watched the manoeuvres of the savages around us. One unguarded shot would have involved us in the quarrel, which it was our interest to avoid; as it would have put an end to all our prospects in the Snake as well as the Nez Percys quarter. As soon as the chiefs could get a hearing, peace was gradually restored ; and the five dead bodies INDIAN TRIBES ASSEMBLE. 241 ■were removed to the Iiiiliaii caiii[), at a distance from the fort. Such a scene I should never wish to witness again. This aftray, hai)pening at our very door, gave us mucli uneasiness ; as to keep the balance of good will at all times in our favour was a task of more than ordinary diHiculty. The day after, the diMbrent tribes assembhjd at Fort Nez Percc^s, and I had my hands full The Shaw-ha-ap-tens arrived, the Cayouses, the Walla- wallas, and many others. The affairs of the pre- ceding day were discussed, as well as the subject of our adventures in the Snake country, and the peace. A thousand questions were put and answered. Each chief betrayed impatience; one and all had to be satisfied. The whites were indirectly taxed with all the late troubles. The chiefs threatened to disregard the peace ; and the late disasters furnished them with a pretext. They were bent on going to war with the Snakes again. As this step might have proved fatal to our inteicourse in that quarter, I tried every plan to divert them from it. I invited them into the fort to smoke. There matters were talked over again, and they smoked and talked during several meetings. A whole week was spent in this business. At last, however, we came to terms, and we all smoked the calumet of peace once more. The chiefs solennily promised not to renew hostilities until at least our friends had left the Snake country. So Ave i)arted once more as friends. ^■'1 <'if r ■r 1 n tttii H }V i ! ;!!' '1 t: ir him I J 242 rillNCE IS NURSED, AND RECOVERS : When our trou])les were over, and matters had settled down to their ordinary level, I took Prince, the man who in cool despair had shot himself, under my care; as he not only survived, Lut showed sym[>tom.s of returning strength, I kept him, and nursed him from July until December following, when he was so far recovered as to be able to rido on horseback. At this stage, he accompanied his relations to their wintering-ground ; but as he was still luiable to undergo the fatigues of hunting, or endure mucli exercise, I fitted him out with tlic means of passing the winter comfortably, and we parted. In the spring, on the return of the Indians to the fort, I Avas nuich pleased to see Prince among them a^ strong and hearty as ever! "I am sure," said he to me, when we met, " you are glad to see me well." I told him I was very happy to see him recovered, and hoped he w^ould be a good man, and love the whites. He appeared thankful, and promised he "would. "But," said he to me again, "you must give mo a new gun ; you know my relations destroyed my gun, when I got wounded." "I know they did," said I, "but I have no gun to spare.'' " I have been long sick," said he, " and am poor, I have nothing to buy one m.yself, and I cannot hunt without a gun." "You have plenty of horses," said I, " why don't you buy one ?" On my saying so, he hung down his head. I saw, how^ever, that my refusal did not please him, and i M UK IIKQS, AND IS UNGRATEFUL. 243 that my telling' him to sell his horses and buy a gun ploased him less. But I thought that I iuid dono enough for him, and the more I gave him the less he would limit. So I told him again I had no gmi to spare ; that I had nursed him for half a year, and saved his life, and that now, as ho was ^vell, ho must try and provide for liimself. *'What!" said he, sharply, "do you love a gun more than you love me V " No," said I, " but I have no gun to spare." On my saying so, he got rather sulky, and held down his head, the first indieation of an Indian's displeasure ; for he had been telling his friends, as I learnt afterwards, that I would refuse him nothing. All this, however, passed between us, without remark, and as I thought in good will on both sides. I took no further notice of what he said, but turned round to another Indian to settle some little business I had with him. While doing so. Prince suddenly started up, saying, " Since you are so stingy, and love your gun so well, keep it, and give me an axe: perhaps you will refuse me that too." I was rather nettled at the fellow's impertinence, so I reproved him. " What, my friend," said I, "are you really an giy with me V " Yes," said he, abruptly. " The white people have two mouths, and two words. You said you liked me, and yet you reliise me a gun ; but give me an axe, and keep your gun, since you prefer to see me like a squaw with an axe, rather than like a man with a isnn.' " What, my friend,' II 2 i/if H '■ a ^ 't;'. 244 INDIAN PERFIDY. t I i :( I, ■ f ,. n,; f "'M f^iil f«.i ■ I said I again to him, " hav,> !" uot done enough for you? Have I not do.y nioro for you than all your own people put togx-iucr { Have I not saveil your life ? Have I not supported you all the winter ? Yes, my friend, I have done so. And now that you are well you must do for yourself. I cannot let you have an axe, or anything else, unless you pay for it as others do ; nor does your present conduct merit any more favours at my hand " And saying so, I turned round to the Indian I had been speaking to a little before. The moment I turned round from him, Prince caught hold of a gun, and made an attempt to shoot me in the back ; but it fortunately missed fire, and before I had time to turn round, the gun was taken out of his hands by one of the chiefs, who holding it up in the air, fired off the shot : it was fortunate that it missed fire the first time. After this. Prince stood sullen and motionless. " Is it/' said I, " because I saved your life, that you wished to deprive me of mine V To this he made no reply. Taking, therefore, a ball out of one of his comrade's pouches, close by, I offered it to him, saying, " Let me see now if you really wish to kill me ; there is a ball, load your gun again," and I then stood before him. But he would neither take the ball, nor reload the gun. This scene took place in the presence of more than fifty Indians, who remained silent spectators. I then entered the fort, leaving Prince still standing; but in a few iMr PRINCE STEALS A GUX. 245 minutes afterwards he ssiieaked off, and loft tlie place : even the savages could not forbear reproving him for his conduct. The reader has here a specimen of tlie gratitude which a trader meets with among these barbarous |>eople. But we must follow Prince a little further. After leaving,' the phice, he happened to meet, at a little distance fiom the fort, one of my men, a Canadian, by the name of Ar.^loche, comirig home from a hunting trip. Prince tlierefore went uj) to him with a siiiling countenance; and after shaking hands and talking a little with Melodic, he said to him, " Let me see your gun." Meloche made no hesitation, but handed it to him ; for he looked upon Prince as one of ourselves, fi-om his having been so long about the place ; and he had often helped to take care of him during his sickness. No sooner, how- ever, had Prince got the gun into his own hands, than he, as Indians generally do, examined whether or not it was loaded ; finding it was, he leaped on his horse, drew on one side, and began to quarrel with Meloche, and reproach the whites: al- luding to my having refused him a gun and an axe. But Meloche was not a man to be frightened by mere words, and Prince, to prevent his getting hold of him, turned round, shot Meloche's horse, kept the gun, and scampered off. Meloche arrived at the fort enraged, got a horse and gun, and would have pursued after Prince, at all hazard, had I not prevented him. I intended 1,1 M ,t I i I . '■ u ^'J' !!•! ! a. 246 PRINX'E ACCIF/iiNTALLY SHOT to adopt some inikler i)]an for tlie recovery of his gun and the loss of his horse ; but time was not allowed is to put tliis plan into execution. Not many dr.ys afterwards, Prince exchanged tlie gun with another Indian for "a horse. The Indians going out to hunt, Prince, in ai>proach- ing an elk, wjis accidentally shot dead l>y a ball out of the very gun he took from l\[eloc'ho. The fellow who had it happened unluckily to ho approaching the sam*^ animal as Prince, hut in an opposite dii-ection, when on firing, the hail missed the elk, glanced from a tree, and proved fatal to Prince. With this incident we hasten to close the present chapter, reserving for the next our further proceedings in the Snake country. 'ii i if i- -i IS •"t 1 CHAPTER YIII. Snake conntrj' — Preliminary remarks — lutcrvioAv with tlic two great chioftj — The Iroquois again — InlUioncc of the chiefrf— Good order — The three groat .sections of tlic Snake nation — Dog-caters — Firih-ealers — Kohher.s— The mammoth eanip — Men uf size — Pee-eye-em — The Snake Council— Peace-making — liesult — The chief's remark on the war — The trembling Han-at-tecM— The land of profusion— Trading peculiarities of the Snaked — Importance of trifles — Chief's viewa — Indians decamp -Whites change places — The great' snow-storm — Whites' outwitted — Indians at homo — Cheap' mode of Avintering horees — Ilodgen's adventures — Ama-ketsa's conduct — Natural instinct — l^yramids of beaver — Chief's friendly conduct — Three Owhyheca murdered — Spring arrangements — Journey homeward — Anxieties at Fort Xez Pcrces — M'Kenzie's arrival — General remarks — Face of the country — Varied sccnerj* — Mountains and ^'allcys— The pilot knobs — Xoveltios — Sulphur streams — Hot and cold springs— Xatural bridges — Subterraneous rivers — Great fish camp — Provi- dent habits — Delicate appetites — Economy of the Snakes — Horse-flesh a dainty— Native tobacco — Legend — Pottery- Snake ingenuity— A clumsy substitute for canoes — Manoeuvres of the Snakes [to elude their pursuers— M'Kenzie's departure — North- westers west of the mountains— Lawsuits— Kesult of the (rials — New deed-poll — Dissolution of the North-West Company — The cflect— Begin the world again— Fate of dependents— M'Kenzie's return — Leaves the country— Sketch c^f his character. it . "I The business of the year being ended, we resume tlie subject of tlie Smiivo expeditiou. \'t« I * 1 ! 248 TIIE SNAKES AND THEIR CHIEFS. ( ,■ i ' I i* if '!)■ lii' i! 1 1 M'Kenzie, in following up his first intention, dis- posed of liis trappers to the best advantage ; and, taking with him three men and an Indian chief, left his people, and set out on a trip of discovery towards the south. He had not proceeded far, before he fell in with the main body of the great Snake nation, headed Ijy the two principal chiefs, Pee-eye-em and Ama-qui-em. An interview Avith these two great men, in reference to the /leace, was M'Kenzie's chief object in the trip he had under- taken ; he therefore, lost no time, but returned back to wh(!re he had left his people, the Indians accompanying him. The regularity and order of these Indians con- vinced the whites that they were under a very dif- ferent government to any other they had yet seen in the country — even preferable to the arrange- ments of the whites ; the influence of the two great chiefs being, at all times, sufficient to restrain and keep the whole in subordination, and our friends fi'ee from annoyance. Not so was it among our own trappers ; for, aUhough M'Kenzie had only been absent from them teji days, on his return he found that the Iroquois had commenced their old tricks of trafficking away their hunting implements with the natives ; and tlieir familiar and criminal intercourse had already drawn down on them the contempt of the Indians. To prevent the evils arising from the animo sities which had been engendered between both DIVISIONS OF THE SNAKE NATION. 249 parties by the conduct of the thoughtless Iroquois, was difficult : they •well-nigh brought the whites into a disagreeable scrape ; but the good sense and con- duct of the chiefs, on this occasion, w.as, in the highest degree, praiseworthy ; so that matters were soon amicably adjusted. This done, M'Kenzie turned his attention to the Indians, and the peace. But before we enter upon the latter suljject, we shall give some account of the Snake Indians as a nation. The great Snake nation may be divided into three divisions, namely, the Shirry-dika?, or dog- eaters ; the War-are-ree-kas, or fish-eaters ; and the Ban-at-tees, or robbers. But, as a nation, they all go by the general appellation of Sho-sho-nes, or Snakes. The word Sho-sho-ne means, in the Snake language, " inland.'' The Snakes, on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, are Avhat the Sioux are on the east side — the most numerous and the most powerful in the country. The Shirry-dikas are the real Sho-sho-nes, and live in the plains, hunting the buffalo. They are generally slender, hut tall, well-made, rich in horses, good warriors, well-dressed, clean in their camps, and in their pei-sonal appearance bold and independent. The War-are-ree-kas are very numerous ; but neither united nor formidable. They live chiefly by fishing, and are to be found along all the rivers, lakes, and water-pools throughout tlie country. They are more corpulent, slovenly, and indolent than the Shiny-dikas. Badly armed and badly clothed, I 1 in (■ ■ rv _ ! ! i\ m !i i. i I '! •) -i Is'- 'I > it ' i' m 250 HABITS OP THE SXAKJIS. they seldom go to war. Dirty in their camps, in their dress, and in their persons, they differed so far, in their general habits, from the Shirry-dikas, that they appeared as if they had been people Ijc- longing to another country. These are the defence- less wretches whom the Black Feet and Piegans,froin beyond the mountains, generally make war upon. These foreign mercenaries caiiy off the scalps and women of the defenceless War-arc-ree-kas, and the horses of the Shirry-dikas ; but are never formi- dable nor bold enough to attack the latter in fair and open combat. The Ban-at-tees, or mountain Snakes, live a ]iie- datory and wandering life in the recesses of the mountains, and are to be found in small l^ands, or single wigwams, amoKg the caverns and rocks. They are looked upon by the real Sho-sho-nes themselves as outlaws : their hand against every ma,n, and every man's hand against them. They live chiefly by plunder. Friends and foes are alike to them ! They generally frequent the northern frontiers, and other moimtainous pavts of the country. In sumn^er, they go almost naked ; but during winter they clothe themselves with the skins of rabbits, wolves, and other animals. They are complete masters of what is called tlie cabalistical language of birds and beasts ; and can imitate, to the utmost perfection, the singing of birds, the howling of wolves, and the neighing of horses ; by which means, they can approach, by day ii! THE SXAKE TERRITORY. 251 or by night, all travellers, rifle tliern, antl then fly to their hiding-places among the rocks. They are not numerous, and are on the decline. Bows and arrows are their only weapons of defence. i. The country that these and the other Snake tribes claim as their own, and over which they roam, is very extensive. It is bounded on the east by the Rocky Mountains, on the south by the Spanish waters ; on the Pacific, or west side, l.>y an imaginary line, lioginning at the west end, or spur, of the Blue Mountains, behind Fort Nez Perce's, and running parallel with the ocean to the height of land beyond the Umpqua River, in about north lat. 41° (this line never approaches within loO miles of the Pacific) ; and on the north, by another line, running due east from the said spur of the Blue Mountains, and crossing the gront south branch, or Lewis River, at the Dalles, till it strikes the Rocky ^lountains 200 miles north of the three pilot knobs, or the place hereafter named tlie "Valley c»i' Troubles." The Snake country, llicrefore, contains an area, on a rough calculation, of alnrnt "15 0,0 00 square njiles. For an Indian country, it may ]>e called thickly inhalated, and may contain 30,000 souls, or nearly one person to every four square miles. With all their experience, our friends possessed but a very confused idea of the Snakes, both as to their names or numbers. One would call them Wannacks, and. another Wurracks, while a third w l! i I ■ I' i'l 252 EVASIVE ANSWERS OF INDIANS. would have them named Dogs ! Nor was it till J had sukjseciuently gone to their country, travelled, traded, and conversed with them, that I could learn anything like facts to be depended upon ; and even after all I can state, it cannot be relied upon as entirely correct. It was from the chiefs, who, it would appear, were very intelhgent men, that M'Kenzie and his people, by indirect questions, came to the conclusion that the Snake nation numbered as I have stated ; which, of course, is only an approximation to truth. He could get no sr.tisfactory answer to direct ques- tions ; and th&b is the case with almost all savages. Ask an Indian his name, and he will hesitate to tell you ; ask him his age, and you will receive an evasive answer ! When M'Kcnzie put i.he direct question to the gi^eat chief Pee- eye-em, "How many Indians are there in the Snake nation?" he said, "What makes you ask that question?'' " I should like to know," said he, " in order to tell our father, the gi'eat white chief." " Oh ! oh ! tell him, then," said Pee-eye-em, " that v>'e are as numerous as the stars \" In the pare of thfi country where our friends had taken up their winter quarters, the buffaloes were very numerous ; thousands covered the plains. In this land of profusion, the Indians likewise pitched their camp. The novelty of the presence of tlie whites, and the news of i)eace, soon collected an im- mense crowd together — Shirry-dikas, War-are-ree- THE MAMMOTH CAMP. 253 ,?; j(. kas, and Ban-at-tees ; — so that, before tlie end of a month, there were, according to their statements, more than ten thousand souls in the camp ! Tliis immense body covered a space of g- )und of more than seven miles in length, on both sides of the river ; and it was somewhat curious, as well as in- teresting, to see such an assemblage of rude savages observe such order. • The Slurry -dika-s were the centre of this city ; the War-are-ree-kas at one end, the Ban-at-tees at the other, forming, as it were, the suburbs. But in this immense camp, om* peo[)le were a little sur- prised to see, on each side of the Shirry-dikas, or main camp, nearly a mile of vacant ground between them and their neighbours the War-are-ree-kas and Ban-at-tees. This mysterious point wjis soon cleared up ; for as tlie other Indians came in, they encamped by the side of the Shirry-dikas, till at last the whole vacant space was filled up ; the same took place among the War-are-ree-kas and Ban-at-tees ; each clan swelled its own cam[) ; so that every great division was, in a manner, separate. The whole of this a.ssemblage of camps was governed by the voice of two great chiefs, Pee-eye-em and Ama-qui-em, who were brothers, and both fine- looking, middle-aged men ; the fornu^r was six feet two inches high, the latter above six feet, and both stout in proportion. M'Kenzie himself, the stoutest of the whites, was a corpulent, heavy man, weighing 3121bs. ; yet he was nothing to be compared, either t I fitt n: ill »» I j I '!l^ ,7. *' I i I' 2r)i INDIAN PEACE CONGRESS. in size or weight, to one of the Indian chiefs : his waistcoat "was too narrow, by fourteen inches, to button round Pee-eye-em. Having now presented our readers with a brioi: outline of the Snake Indians, we next remark on that all-absorbing topic, the peace. As soon as all tlie natives were assembled together, M'Kenzie made known to the chiefs his views Jis to the establishiiiir of a general and permanent peace between tliuni and their enemies on the northern frontier. Besides Pee-eye-em and Ama-qui-em, there were fifty-four other dignitaries at the council-board, six of whom were War-are-ree-kas ; but not one Ban-at-tee. The rest were all Shirry-dikas, and others belonging to the same class. After stating that the Nez Perec's had agreed to the peace, and that it now depended solely upon them to have it finally ratilieil, M'Kenzie also signified to them that, if the j)eace met with their cordial approbation, and was once established throughout the country, the whites would then open a profitable trade with the Snake nation, and that henceforth they might be supplied with all their wants. On hearing the concluding part of the propo- sition, the approbation was universal. All seemed to hail peace with tlieir enemies as a most desirable object. Here the great sachem Pee-eye-em rose up, and was the first to speak. " What have we to do with it V said he. " We never go to war on the Nez Perce's, or any other tribe in that quarter ; nor do INDIAN PEACE CONGRESS. they over make war on us. These," said ho, point- ing to the War-are-ree-kas and Ban-at-teo caini)s, " those are the people who disturb and wage war with the Noz Percos, and jJunder the wliitcs when in their power ; but we l»ave no liand in it ; and for us to run after and punisli the Ban-at-tees every time they do evil would bo endless. It would be just as easy for us to hunt out and kill all the foxes in the country, as to hunt out and punish every Ban-at-tee that does mischief. They are like the mo.squitoes — not strong, but they can torment; and, by their misdeeds and robberies, the AVar-are-ree-kas often sufi'er from the inroads of the northern tribes." " The Black Feet and Piegans," continued Pee- cye-em, " are our only enemies ; a peace with them would be more desirable to us than a peace with the Nez Perec's ; but still, as it is the wish of the whites, the interest of the War-are-ree-kas, and ours, to got our wants sup[)lied, we cordially agToc to it." Ama-qui-cm spoke next, and gave his consent. And then Ama-ketsa, one of the War- are-ree-kas, a bold and intelligent chief, spoke at great length in favour of the peace ; he denounced the Ban-at-tces as a predatory race, and the chief cause of all the Snake troubles with the Nez Perce's. A whole week was spent in adjusting this important business, and our people were heartily tired of it. At last, when all the chiefs had given their consent, four of the Ban-at-tees were invited, and they approached in evident fear. The peace hi] l« t r. I li I ' r * » ■ a ' I); ■. .1 f ■'1 l; ^< ' I ^ ' I\ '' ;'|: i^H' ?'■ 2oG THE BAN-AT-TEES. was fully explained to tliem, and they were dis- tinctly told by Pee-eye-eni and Ania-qui-ein, that if they did not regard the peace and live like the other Snake tribes, they would be punished with death. In uttering these words, Ama-qui-em got quite en- thusiastic. " Yes," said he, to the trembling Ban-at- tees, "you are robbers and murderers too ! You have robbed the whites ; you have killed the whites." After this declaration, he made a pause, as if re- gretting what he had said, and went on. " But why should I repeat a giievance ? It is now past : let us utter it no more. Go then home to your wives and to your children. Rob no more, and we sluill all be friends. You see the whites before you ; they are our friends ; you must be their friends. We must enforce the observance of peace ; tell your people so, and forget it not." The poor Ban-at-tees stood trembling and silent before the council like criminals ; but the moment Ama-qui-em sat down, they all called out in the Snake language, " Hackana tabeboo, Hackana ia- beboo." We are friends to the whites, we are friends to the whites. The business over, M'Kenzie presented Pee-eye- em and Ama-qui-em with a flag each, as an em- blem of peace. And at their request, one was given to Ama-ketsa, and one to the Ban-at-tees. As soon as the council broke up, our friends were anxious to know the truth of Ama-qui-em's asser- ¥ lf¥| TOBACCO >rADi: I5Y TlfK SXAKKS. 2.37 tion, "That tlioy (the B.-in-iit-toe.s) had jihvady kilhMl th(3 whites," jiiwl thorufore si'iit tor that chii't* aiul iiK[uinMl into the matter. Aiiia-(|iii-oii), ftfter some little liesitatiou, exiihiined it, i y telling M'Keiizie that it was the J3aii-at-tees that jMiimlered and murdered Mr. lleid and his ])arty in the autumn of] 81 3. Our readers will no doubt have hserved that wo have omitted the custonuiry ceremony of smokinf^ during the present treaty of peace. Our reasons for so doing arose from the fact, that the Snakes prefer their own tobacco ours : they are, perhaps, tiie only Indian nation on the Continent who manufactuie and smoke their own tobacco. Several of them were, however, seen with bits of our toliacco in their me»lieine bags ; but scarcely any ■were seen to smoke it : as to the ceremony of smoking at their councils, no Indians indulge in it more freely than the Snakes do. The peace was no sooner concluded than ca brisk trade in furs connnenced. In their traffic, the most indiflerent spectator could not but stare to see the Indians, chiefly War-are-ree-kas and Ban -at- tees, bringing large garments of four or Ave large beaver skins each, such as they use during winter for warmth, and selling them for a knife or an awl; and other articles of the fur kind, in pro- portion. It was so with the Columbia Indians in our first years ; but they soon learned the mys- tery of trade, and their own interest. So will the s n i % t I ' til. \' ll ; I I I f ' 1 f I 1 M^ .%. ^r,%, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. m A^ m. LO I.I 1.25 1^ 2.5 1^ lifi IIIIIM 1.4 — A" 1.6 V] ■ never hav- bhem. Nor vranted with lites/' asked ,er garments r, were not poorer sort. luffalo robes had one and an they pro- mised to turn beaver hunters : this disposition was of course encouraged by our people. Axes, knives, ammunition, beads, buttons, and rings, were the articles most in demand. Clothing was of no value : a knife sold for as much as a blanket ; and an ounce of vermilion was of more value than a yard of fine cloth. With the exception of guns, which they might have got from other Indians, they had scarcely an article among them to show that they had ever mixed with civilised man; although it is Avell known that they had of late years occasionally seen the whites. Trade was no sooner over, than Ama-qui-em mounted one of his horses and rode round and round the camp — which of itself was almost the woik of a day — now and then niidiing a halt to harangue the Indians respecting the peace, and their behaviour towards the whites, and telling them to prepare foi' raising camp. Tliree days successively tliis duty was performed by the chief, and in the morning of the fourth all the Shirry-dikas decamped in a body, and returned in the direction whence they had come. Although these people were very peaceable and orderly, yet our friends got heartily tired of the crowd, and were no less anxious than pleased to see them move off. The War-are-ree-kas and Ban- at-tees remained behind, and were very annoying ; they soon assumed a haughty tone, and even the Ban-at-tees began to hold up their heads and speak after the Shirry-dikas had left. In short, our S 2 P: i'l'I te':t I i i< M ,i.'« 260 INDIAN HORSE-STEALERS. friends often wished the Shirry-dikas back again. At the end of a couple of weeks more, however, all the rest went off; but not without stealinof three of the hunters' best horses and some beaver traps. So much for the peace! but the loss was less felt tlian the annoyance of the thieves who had stolen them ; of whom our people were glad to get clear. When the Indians had left the ground, our hunters were divided into parties throughout the neighbour- hood, and went with the other three of the Owhy- hees along a small river to trap, where no danger was apprehended. Our people were now left to pursue their business of hunting, and they trapped with great success for some time ; but as soon as the winter set in, some of the banditti hovered about their camp with the intention of carrying off their horses, which subjected them to constant watching day and night. Our people, therefore, took advantage of a snow-storm, and removed to some distance, in order to be out of their reach. During the bad weather, which lasted ten days, their want of a guide, and their ignorance of the best passes tlirough the mountains, brought them into imminent peril of losing all their horses; at length, however, they were fortunate enough to get to a place of shelter, where their animals could feed, and they encamp in safety. Every one felt that their horses were secure, themselves relieved from watching, and that they had outwitted the \ I THE TRAPPER S HORSE. 2(n Indians; but the very next morning after tliey liad arrived, six of their horses were stolen, and a gnn and two steel traps, which had been left at the door of a hunter's tent, were carried off. The Indians had dogged tliem all the way, and played them this trick at last; so that they had to adopt the same plan as before, and watch all the winter. To those who have never travelled in these wilds, it may be interesting to know how the trappers' horses are fed and stabled during the winter. No fodder is provided for them; there is no stable nor shelter; only the canopy of heaven above them. Up to their bellies in snow, which has often a crust on the top as hard as ice, the horses beat down the crust, scrape away the snow with their fore-feet, and feed on the dry and withered grass at the bottom. They often pass the winter without a drop of water, except from the icicles and snow which they happen to eat with their dry and tasteless food. After passing the night in this manner, they are bridled, saddled, and ridden about by the hunters all day ; and when they arrive at night covered with sweat, tired and hungry, they are turned out again to dig their supper in the face of the deep snows, and in a cold ranging from 20° to 30° below zero of Fahrenheit's thermometer. Tlie exercise may keep them in some degree warm ; but the labour necessary to procure their food during the night is fully as fatiguing and laborious as the labour by day; and yet these hardy and vigorous animals are always in good condition. ': i> r I I \ ?l \ii i\ I'! ; ' "li .rV M 'tl; 262 A HUNTER LOST IN THE SNO^y. But to return to our subject. During the storni, while our people were on their journey, one of the hunters, named Hodgens, getting separated from the party in the drift and snow, lost his way. In his wanderings he lost his horse, and from cold and hunger almost lost his life ; for the lock of his gun got broke, so that he could not make a fire, and during two days and two nights he had to weather the storm without any. On the four- teenth day, however, while scarcely able to crawl, he had the good luck to fall on the main camp of the War-are-ree-kas ; where recognising the chief's ten^, from the manner in which it was painted, he ad- vanced towards it, looking more like a ghost than a living being. On his entering, Ama-ketsa, surprised at his unexpected arrival, and still more surprised at his emaciated appearance, stared him in the face for some time, and could scarcely believe that it was a white man ; but as soon as he was convinced of the reality, and made acquainted with the wan» derer's forlorn state, he ordered one of his wives to put a new pair of shoes on his feet, gave him something to eat, and was extremely kind to him. Here Hodgens remained for eleven days in the chiefs tent, nursed with all the care and attention of a child of the family, until his strength was reco- vered; and as soon as he was on his legs again, Ama-ketsa furnished him with a horse, some pro- visions, and sent one of his own sons to conduct him to the whites. Although Hodgens could give I' frill AMA-KETSAS KINDNESF, 263 the Indians no clue as to where the liunters were encamped, yet on the eighth day they arrived safe and sound at their friends', and as straight as if they had been led by a line to them ; wiiich con- vinced our people that the Indians knew well the place of their retreat. Indeed, in those parts to avoid the Indians would be to avoid their own party. A party of our people had been out a whole week in search of Hodgens, and found his dead horse, but despairing of finding him they returned to their camp; and aU hopes of ever finding Hodgens alive vanished : when he did come, their astonish- ment was equal to their delight. The friendly con- duct of Ama-ketsa towards him was a strong proof of that chief's good-will towards our people. During our friends' stay in this place they had several surprises from the Indians, but they managed matters so well that no more of their horses were stolen. Here our friends passed a winter of fi.ve montlis, before the fine weather broke in upon them. Then removing to some distance, they commenced then* spring hunt, in a part of the country rich in beaver. While here they were visited by several bands of Snakes, chiefly Shirry-dikas ; and among others, by Pee-eye-em and Ama-qui-em, with a large squad of followers. The astonishment of these people was great on the day of their arrival, at seeing two I fill 1. Mi m M li|:!i Tf * If I Pl ! f 11 ' 1) • '% III m :4 (H U 1 J t t t , 'li \ *! t ;;< ( I 264 THREE MEN MURDERED. hundred and forty beaver caught by the hunters, and brought into camp at the same time. These two great men were very anxious to know from M'Kenzie whether any of his people had been killed by the Indians during the winter ; and being answered in the negative, they appeared much pleased. They were, however, told that one had been lost, but was found. Little did our friends then think what had really happened, or what had incited the Indians to be so inquisitive. It will be remembered that three of the Owhyhees, as well as others, had been fitted out on a little i-iver to hunt beaver, and our people had not heard any tidings of them. These three unfortunate men had all been murdered ; this was what the chiefs had heard, and were so anxious about. As our people were about to start on their homeward journey, the two friendly chiefs ex- pressed an ardent wish to accompany them : " We wish," said they, " to see the Shy-to-gas.'" Besides seeing the Nez Perces, they thought by accompany- ing our people to insure a safe return to their lands. Our people, however, did not encourage them to undertake so tedious and hazardous a journey, and so embarrassing to themselves ; but M'Kenzie assured them of his speedy return : so after staying about ten days, the chiefs set out to return home- ward. Both parties took leave of each other with feelings of respect. As soon as the chiefs went off, •v 1 HOMEWiUlD. 2(15 our people prepared to start ; and in the meantime a party, with an Indian guide, was sent off to pick up and bring to the camp the three Owhyhees already mentioned. They found the place where they had been hunting, and where they had been murdered ; the skeleton of one of them was found, but nothing else. The fact that one of their horses had been seen in the possession of the banditti, left no doubt in the minds of our people that they were the murderers. The season being now well advanced, they had no time to lose ; loading therefore one hundred and fifty-four horses with beaver, and turning their faces towards Fort Nez Percds, the whole party commenced its homeward journey, over hills, dales, rocks, and rivers, for twenty-two days' travel, until they reached the long-wished-for Blue Mountains again. Here they spent a couple of days, to rest and refresh their fatigued animals. Various had been the reports brought to us by the Indians as to the fate of our friends in the Snake country, and as the time of their expectel arrival drew near the more anxious of course we became ; when one day a cloud of dust arose in the direction in which they were expected, and by the aid of a spy-glass we perceived from four to five hundred horses, escorted by as many riders, advanc- ing at a slow pace, in a line of more than two miles in length, resembling rather a caravan of pilgiims than a trapping party. It was our friends, accom- ( ■ i m ' ! If ! 15 ii.' iHiif 4 !i ' 1: ■ I ; 1 ! I' '(';; » v' ■»', \l' fi J 1^ ml 266 THE SNAKE COUNTRY. panied by a band of fcbe Cayouse Indians, who had joined them as they emerged from the defiles of the Blue Mountains ; and soon after, M'Kenzie, in his leather jacket, and accompanied by two of their chiefs, arrived at the fort. Nothing could exceed the joy manifested by all parties, and the success attending the expedition surpassed our most sanguine expectations. This brings our subject up to the 22nd of June, 1820. After a year's absence and laborious toil, oui friends required some rest, and while they are enjoying an interval of repose, we propose to employ ourselves in collecting from their conflicting and imperfect details some further notes and remarks on the Snake country — a country which had be- come the centre of attraction to all parties con- nected with the trade. The general features of the Snake country present a scene incomparably grateful to a mind that delights in varied beauties of landscape and in the manifold w^orks of nature. Lofty mountains, whose summits are in the clouds, rise above wide-extending plains, while majestic waters in endless sinuosities fertilize with their tributary streams a spacious land of green meadows, relieved by towering hills and deep valleys, broken by endless creeks with smiling banks. The union of grandeur and richness, of vastness and fertility in the scenery, fills the mind with emotions that baffle description. /f 1.3 n SALT AND noiUNG SPRINGS. 267 Tlie Rocky Mountains skirting this countiy on the east, dwindle from stupendous heights into sloping ridges, which divide the country into a tiiousand luxurious vales, watered by streams which abound with fish. The most remarkable heights in any part of the gi-eat backbone of America are three elevated insular mountains, or peaks, which are seen at the distance of one hun- dred and fifty miles : the hunters very aptly de- signate them the Pilot Knobs.* In these parts are likewise found many springs of salt water and large quantities of genuine salt, said to be as strong as any rock salt. South of Lewis River, at the Black Feet Lake, this article is very abundant, and some of it is six inches thick, with a strong crust on the surface. Near the same lake, our people found a small rivulet of sulphurous water, bubbling out from the base of a perpendicular rock more than three hundred feet in height. It was dark blue, and tasted like gun- powder. • Boiling fountains, having different degrees of tem- perature, were very numerous; one or two were so very hot as to boil meat. In other parts, among the rocks, hot and cold springs might alternately be seen within a hundred yards of each other, differing in their temperature. I I J \> ^' ,ii .:/. ,:3 • :i; * They are now generally known as the Three Paps, or " Tetons ;" and the source of the Great Snake Eiver is in their neighbourhood. ,fl. hiJ' ,- .i! I fl :l 'i ' d m ii,« IV 268 NATURAL BllIDCiES. RIVERS. Ill passing iiiuny consi(ler}i})le rivers, the Indian path or footway, instead of leading to a ford, would lead to a natural bridge. Instances of this kind were very frequently met with. One of those bridges was arched over in a most extraordinary manner from one precipice to another, as if executed by the hand of man. It was no uncommon thing to find rivers issuing suddenly out of the earth in the midst of a level plain, continuing a serpentine course for several miles, and then as suddenly enter- ing the earth again. In one of these openings our people set their traps, and at the first lift caught thirty beavers and one or two otters. Some considerable streams were likewise observed to gush from the faces of precipices, some twenty or thirty feet from their summits ; while on the top no water was to be seen. In two or three in- stances our people heard the noise of water under their feet, as of rapids ; yet, for several miles, could not get a drop to drink. That this country con- tains minerals, there can be but little doubt ; many indications of copper, iron, and coal were seen by our hunters. In many parts the soil is composed of a rich black loam, with indications of marl. This is the case in all the valleys ; but in the higher parts, the eye is wearied with the sight of barren plains and leafless rocks. It had been noticed how abundantly the natives of this quarter of the world are supplied with SALMON FISH I NO, 2()0 various kinds of food. Tlie many nutiitious roots, berries, and all kinds of uncultivated vegetahles which the country produces, suited to the Indian ])alate, sets starvation at defiance, at all seasons of the year, unless through the negligence of the natives themselves. The Wai^are-rec-kas are expert and successful fishermen, and use many ingenious contrivances in catching the salmon ; but the principal one is that of spearing. For this purpose, the fisherman gene- rally wades into the water, often u[) to his waist, and then cautiously watches the ascending fish; the water being clear. He poises and balances his fourteen-feet spear so well, and throw^s it so adroitly, tliat he seldom misses his aim. Others, again, erect scaffolds, while many stand on ])rojecting rocks with scoop-nets, and in narrow channels they make wires and form barriers. With all these methods, and many more, in full operation, and on almost every point, the fish, ex- cept in deep water, seldom escape these cunning and dexterous men. From fifty to one hundred persons may be seen, within a short distance of each other, all busily employed in their own par- ticular way. At the same time, the youngsters are not idle, but employed in carrying home the fish to the camp ; while the women, old and young, Hlk! each at their post, cleaning and preparing them for future use, and particularly to meet the urgent demands of a lon^; winter. f; i'l P^:l m if m \ I i'fii'i ill! 270 DEPRAVED APPETITE OF SAVAGES. 'fl •'I '•!' iMH!i ■ m It seems that the sahnon is not terrified by noise, for, in all tliese occupations the fishermen call out loudly to each other. The immense quantities of this delicious and nutritive fish caught at even one of these great fish camps might furnish all London Avith a breakfast ; and, although many hundred miles from the ocean, our people affirmed that it still retains its richness and flavour. From the skill of the natives in curing salmon, the fish con- tinue, at all seasons of the year, sweet and in good condition. They are dried slowly in sheds covered above, to exclude the rays of the sun. Yet with all this quantity of salmon, and buf- falo in equal profusion, and of vegetables before them, so depraved is the appetite of the savage, that he has often recourse, by way of change or variety, to the most nauseous and disgusting arti- cles of food. The latter are, perhaps, not more pernicious to health than many of the highly- seasoned and deleterious dishes used among our- selves ; and are, no doubt, as delicate and palatable to the taste of the rude savage, as the others are to the taste and palate of the polished member of civilised society. The Snakes feast on the most loathsome reptiles, such as serpents, mice, and lice. The curiosity of our people was often at- tracted by their singular mode of diet. Beneath the shade of the bushes is found an enormous kind of cricket ; skipping in the sun are good-sized grasshoppers ; and gigantic mounds of pismires of >l DELICACIES OF SNAKE INDIANS. 271 enormous growth are likeAvise very frequent: all these insects are made subser\'ieut to the palate of the Snake Indian. These delicacies are easily collected in quantity, and when brought to the camp they are thrown into a spacious dish along with a heap of burning cinders, then tossed to and fro for some time until they are roasted to death ; under which operation they make a crackling noise, like grains of gun- powder dropped into a hot frying-pan. They are then either eaten dry, or kept for future use, as cir- cumstances may require. In the latter case a few handfulls are frequently thrown into a boiling kettle to thicken the soup ; one of our men had the curiosity to taste this mixture, and said that he found it most delicious. Every reptile or insect that the country produces is, after the same manner, turned economically to account to meet the palate of the Snake Indian. But there is no accounting for tastes. I have seen the whites, in a camp teem- ing with buffalo, fowl, fish, and venison, longing for horseflesh, and even purchasing a horse, in order to feast upon it. Nor is it uncommon in these parts to see the voyageurs leave their rations of good venison, and eat dogs' flesh. But the reader will cease to be surprised at these things, when we mention the fact that the people in this country, habituated as they are to such things, live almost as the Indians, eating everything at times that Jli, I'll «Ep II lit? ■I 'l , , I Uf. M ■! f "■if s ■1 I i W 272 SNAKE TOBACCO. can be eaten ; some from choice, others from necessity. Various herbs, shrubs, and plants are to be found; some of them highly esteemed by the natives for their healing qualities. Having stated that the Snakes prefer their own tobacco to ours, we now proceed to speak of that plant. The Snake tobacco plant grows low, is of a brownish colour, and thrives in most parts of the country, but flourishes best in sandy or barren soil ; it grows spontaneously, and is a good substitute for other tobacco, having the same aromatic flavour and nar- cotic effect as ours. It is weaker than our tobacco ; but the difference in strength may be owing to the mode of manufacturing it for use. For this purpose, their only process is to dry it, and then rub it between the hands, or pound it with stones, until it is tolerably fine. In this state it almost resembles green tea. In smoking, it leaves a gummy taste or flavour in the mouth. Our people, however, seemed to like it very weD, and often observed that with it they would never ask for any other ; yet with all their fondness for the Snake tobacco, I observed that the moment they reached the fort, the Snake importation was either bartered away or laid aside : one and all applied to me for the good old twist. The Snakes would often bring their tobacco to our people for sale; but generally in small parcels, sometimes an ounce or SNAKE TOBACCO LEGEND. 273 two, sometimes a quart, and sometimes as much as a gallon. In their bartering propensities, however, they would often make our friends smile to see them with a beaver skin in one hand, and a small bag containing perhaps a pint of the native tobacco in the other; the former they would offer for a paper looking-glass, worth twopence ; while for the latter they would often demand an axe worth four or five shillings. There is a ftibulous storv cuiTent amon^j these people, and universally believed, that they were the first smokers of tobacco on the earth, and that they have been in the habit of using it from one gene- ration to another, since the world began ; that all other Indians learned to smoke, and had their tobacco first from them; that the white people's tobacco is only good for the whites, and that if they should give the preference to the white people's tobacco and give up smoking their owm, it would then cease to grow on their lands, and a deleterious weed would grow up in its place and poison them all. Although these people display an absurd degree of ignorance in trade, they are, nevertheless, very ingenious. Their ingenuity, in many instances, shows them to be in advance of their Columbia neighbours ; as for example, their skill in pottery. The clays to be found all over their native soil are of excellent quality, and have not been overlooked by them. They, of all the tribes west of the mountains, T i; V t I M 'ta; 274 SNAKE POTTERY RUSH RAFTS. h V m • I.' Gxliibit the best, if not the only, specimens of skill, iXH potters, in making various kinds of vessels for their use and convenience. Our people saw kettles of cylindrical form, a kind of jug, and our old- fashioned jars of good size, and not altogether badly turned about the neck, having stoppers. These jars serve to carry water when on long journeys over parched plains. They are likewise used for holding fish, oil, and gi'ease, and constitute a very great accommodation for domestic purposes. These vessels, although rude and without gloss, are nevertheless strong, and reflect much credit on Indian ingenuity. While travelling in the Snake country our friends were often at a loss how to get aci'oss the diflferent rivers, that barred their way even about the Indian camps, from the singular fact that the Snakes never make use of canoes: they are the only Indians we know of who derive their living chiefly from the waters and are without them. Nor could our people assign any reason or learn the cause. Among all other fishing tribes, the canoe is considered indispensable. When the Snakes had oc- casion to cross any river, a machine constructed of willows and bulrushes, was hastily put together in the form of a raft. This clumsy practice is always resorted to, although it is a dangerous mode of con- veyance. Our people had frequently narrow escapes. At one time, in crossing the main river on a raft of this description, they happened to get entangled, and ' 'i: I . TEALTUY HABITS OF THE SNAKl.S. 275 ns of skill, vessels for saw kettles id our old- , altogether g stoppers. 311 on long are likewise id constitute tic purposes, lit gloss, are li credit on country our ret across the ^ even about fact that the they are the their living ithout them. 11 or learn the 5, the canoe is nakes had oc- ;onstructed of it together in iice is always mode of con- tirrow escapes. T on a raft of ntangled, and were in the utmost danger of perishing ; when some Snakes plunged in to their relief, and after disen- tangling them, swam the raft to shore : they were for more than an hour beyond their depth, notwith- standing it was at a period of the year when tlie river was partly frozen over. It was amusing to listen to the miraculous tales of our people of the manner in which the Snakes eluded their grasp. When passing througli the meadows and flats of long grass, they would often perceive at a distance a person walking; and on these occasions, if they ran to see who it was, after reaching tlie place and looking for some time around, they would perceive to their astonishment the object of their search as far from them in an opposite direc- tion; not satislied they would start again, but to no purpose : the person would again and again appear in another direction, as if playing at hide and seek. The moment a Snake perceives any one pursue him, he squats down among the grass ; then, instead of running forward to avoid his pursuer, he runs backward as if to meet him ; taking care, however, to avoid bim ; so that by the time his pursuer gets to where he tirst saw the Snake, the Snake is back at the place from whence his pursuer started ! In the art of instantaneous concealment, and of chang- ing places, they are very remai'kable. They are very appropriately called Snakes. These remarks, however, apply to the Ban-at-tees also. Return we now to the trappers, whom we left T 2 ii;sl |i i !.' '! II i. 276 THE FEUD OF THE COMPANIES. I ': V- i' ' 'i I \ ■iir ;; ^v'.jfi i1 enjoying themselves for a few days after their return from the Snake country. After delivering up their furs to me, it was found that they had increased our annual returns to nearly double what they were a few years before, with but little additional expense. Thus exemplifying the wise policy of ex- tending the trade into the Snake country. The trappers, consisting of seventy men, being fitted out anew, M'Kenzie and his party were again at their post, and turning their faces once more round to the Snake country they left fort Nez Percys on the 4tli day of July, after a short stay of only twelve days. "We now introduce another portion of our nar- rative; and, in doing so, we must, in order to render our subject as intelligible as possible, take a retrospective view of the scenes that took place between the two rival Companies in 1816. The courts of justice in Canada have juris- diction over all criminal offenders in this coun- try ; consequently, all the parties guilty, or sus- pected of being guilty, belonging either to the North-West or to the Hudson's Bay Companies during the hostile feuds, were sent thither for trial. We now lay before our readers the result of those trials. As soon as it was rumoured abroad that an investigation into the rights of parties, or the safety of individuals, was about to take place, many of the North- West managers were much perplexed. Si \' LITIGATION AND ITS RESULTS. 277 Expedients were resorted to, and every artifice that could be devised was put in requisition, to defeat the ends of justice; or rather to screen them- selves from guilt. The chief outrages that had been perpetrated were committed, not by the ruling powers, but by their subordinates ; many of whom were, in consequence, hastily got out of the way : the re- mote posts of the north, as well as of the Columbia, had the benefit of their company. Those who could not be conveniently disposed of in this way Avere sent off among the Indians for a time, so that when the various indictments were exhibited in the courts of law against individuals, no evidence could be found to convict or prove any of them guilty : this has been, and always will be, the case in a country so remote from civilisation and the seat of justice. When all was done in Canada that could be done, the main features of the case remained just as they were, without being advanced or bettered, by a protracted investigation of four years. The Hudson's Bay Company still maintained their right of exclusive trade in and sovereignty over Rupert's Land ; the North-West Company, on the other hand, disputed that right, and continued to trade in Rupert's Land, carrying off the largest portion of its productions in furs and peltries. Eminent lawyers were employed on both sides to solve the disputed points, and gave opinions favourable to their respective clients ; but those opinions produced i: ' Is II ■j; iii I'! U^ l;r III' Vvf '(■ I m M Mi '■ 'A ; :« l*- *. IJ't''" i' ! ^ •■ ! i "il il < il ri f 278 JUNCTION OF THE RIVAL COMPANIES. no other effect than to convince the rival Companies of the folly of carrying on a contest wliich threat- ened bankruptcy to l3oth. The costs of the Nortli- West Company alone amounted to the enormous sum of i) 5,0001. sterling. From litigation the parties had recourse to me- diation, and the result of the negotiation was a anion of the two Companies into one, by a " deed- poll,'' bearing date the 26th day of March, 1821. The deed-poll provides, among other things, that the trade heretofore carried on by both parties sepa- rately shall in future be carried on "exclusively, for 21 years, in the name of the Gov^ernor and Company of Adventurers of England trading into Hudson's Bay;" or, in other words, "the Hudson's Bay Com- pany." By this arrangement the North-West Com- pany merged into the Hudson's Bay Company. The deed-poll may be very good, and so may the charter; but we should have liked it much better after all the evils we have witnessed arising from doubts and disputes, had the charter itself been stamped with the authority of the three estates, King, Lords, and Commons: this would have most effectually set the question at rest for ever, and put all doubt as to the legality or illegality of the charter out of question. The junction of the two Companies saved Rupert's Land from anarchy in the day of troubles. The downfall of the Nortli-West Company cast a gloom over its numerous train of retainers and i'' is' MM I' ectants whose time of promo- tion ran beyond that period were excluded; but some of the latter party were provided for by a pecuniary remuneration, and among this last class it was my lot to fall, for my promotion did not come on till 1822. On tliis occasion a letter from the Honourable William M'Gillivray put me in possession of the fact, " that 50QI. sterling had been placed to my credit in their books." But I never received a penny of it. Being thus released from the North- West Com- pany, I had to begin the world anew ; this being the third time in the course of my adventures. Still following, however, the irresistible propensity of my inclination to see more of the Indian country, I immediately entered the service of the Honoui-able Hudson's Bay Company ; but for two years only. v/ "II « ' -J fl-JVi'i'! iitii iifii 280 LOSSES, i'' P' 1. ji J /' f' 1,1 t I * , t My prospects in the Pacific Fur Company were but short lived, and my hopes vanished like a dream. In the North- West Company seven more years of my life had gone by, and with them my prospects. There is a singular coincidence between both dis- appointments ; for had not the American Company failed in 1813, my promotion would have taken place in 1814; so, in like manner, had not the North-West become extinct in 1821, I should have realised expectations in 1822. The high standing of the late North- West Com- pany induced all those in any way connected therewith, to deposit their savings in the house of M'Gillivray, Thain, and Company, the then head of the concern; and every one having money there considered it just as safe as if it had been in the Bank of England. But the wild and profuse expenditure consequent on keeping a horde of retainers during the law contest of four years sank the house in debt, and it became insol- vent, which unfortunate circumstance deprived many individuals of all their hard earnings. My loss amounted to 1400?., which left me almost penniless. While these changes were going on, who should arrive in health and high spirits at Nez Perces, after another year's absence, but M'Kenzie from the Snake country, on the 10th July, 1821, with an in- crease of returns, and the good fortune of not hav- ing lost a man. At this period his contract of five I It '« m'kenzie's caueku. 281 years liad expired, and the object of his mission was fully accomplished ; but being too hitc in the season to get out of the country, he passed the winter with me at Fort Nez Percds, and crossed the Rocky Mountains in the autumn of 1822. Although somewhat foreign to our subject, we may be permitted to follow this enterprising and indefatigable adventurer a little further. The man who but a few years before had been thought fit only to eat horseflesh and shoot at a mark, was now, from his perseverance and success in recovering a losing trade, become so popular among all parties in the fur trade, that we find him simgly placed in the new " deed-poll " as a sachem of the higher class. Consequently, instead of wending his way to Canada, after crossing the mountains, he shaped his course to the Council at York Factory. Nor had he been long there before he was raised a step higher, by being appointed Governor of Red River Colony, the highest post in the country next to the Governor-in-Chief ; which honourable station he held with great credit to himselfj and satisfaction to the public, for a period of nearly ten years. Availing himself of his rotation at the end of that period, he made a tour through the United States, and during that tour purchased a small estate de- lightfully situated near Lake Erie, called Mayville; then returning to Red River for his family, he retired from the service, and left the country alto- gether, going to spend the remainder of his 11 ■'} ill ':' I I i 1 I I,' m :> IM li'. W If ■ 'i; \ h I ' I..'' r. ■ fi'. 282 m'kknzie's charactfu days at his rur.il seat of Muyville, iii tlie States of New York. Mr. M'Kenzic Avas eminently fitted, botli in corporeal and mental qualities, for the arduous and very often dangerous labour of conducting,' the l)UsinesH of his employers in regions hitherto but rarely trodden by the foot of the civil- ised man, and among tribes as fickle and capri- cious in their disposition, as they were fierce and barbarous iu their manners. Capable of enduring fatigue and privations, no labour appeared too great, no hardships too severe. Bold and decided in the presence of danger, he was peculiarly adapted to strike awe into the brcjist of the savage ; who has an instinctive reverence for manly daring. Nor was he destitute of those less striking qualities which win but do not awe mankind. Intimately ac- quainted with the disposition of the savages he had to deal with, he could adopt measures amongst them which to others appeared the extreme of folly, and whose successful issue alone could evince that they had been prompted by the deepest sagacity and knowledge of human nature. The instance, already recorded, of his distributing his property among the Indian cluefs, and finding it untouched on his return, after a considerable interval of time, is a sufficient proof of this. But Mr. M'Kenzie, notwithstanding his Hberal endowments and educa- tion, for he had been designed for the ministiy, had a great aversion to writing, preferring to AND HAUITS. 283 leave the dt'tails of his adventures to the pen of others. To travel a (hi}'s journey on snow-shoes was his delight ; but Ik; detested .-^pending five minutes scribljling in a journal. Tlis triivclling notes were often kept on a beaver skin, written hieroglyph ieally with a pencil or piece of coal; and ho would often complain of the drudgery of keeping amounts. When {isked why he did not like to write, his answer was, " We nuist leave something for others to do." Few men coidd fathom his mind, yet his inquisitivenesB to know the niinds and opinions of others had no bounds. Every man lu; met was his companion ; and when not asleep, he was always upon foot, strolling backwards and forwards, full of plans and projects : so peculiar was this pedestrian habit, that he went by the name of " Perpetual Motion." * I ij
  • ; t E?rr ''3. ,;^] CHAPTER IX. Preliminary observations — Scenes in the Indian country — Reflec- tions — Canadians — Freemen — Habits — Character — Owhyhees on the Columbia — Iroquois in the Indian country — Indian women — Half-breeds— Bourgeois, and his children — Remarks — The last relic — The Bourgeois in his light canoe — Hard travelling— Fort Nez Perces — The war chief— The war horse — Cavalcade — Treat- ment of slaves — Scalp dancing — Yocabular}- of the language — Table of the weather — Direction of the winds — Degrees of heat and cold. The last chapter closed the career of the North- West Company with M'Kenzie's adventures in the Snake quarter, and placed the trade of the country in possession of the Hudson's Bay Company. But before we take our leave finally of the North- Westers, there are yet a few fragments left which we propose collecting together, to enable the reader thoroughly to comprehend this subject ; and we propose devoting the present chapter to these details. The branch of mercantile pursuit which confines the trader to a residence for a series of years among savages in the far distant wilds of North America, may appear to some as banishment rather than I m DELIGHTS OF THE HUNTERS LIFE. 285 an appointment of choice in search of competency, which in a variety of ways fortune phices more or less within our reach ; yet of the persons who have spent any portion of their years in those countries, few or none are known who do not look back with a mixture of fond remembrance and regret on the scenes through which they have passed ; preferring the difficulties and dangers of their former precarious but independent habits to all the boasted luxuries and restraints of polished society. In the wilderness they spend a long, active, and healthful life ; the table groans with venison, wild fowl, and fish, together with a variety of wild fruits, while the simple element in its purest state is their harm- less beverage. In the frequency of their voyages, the diversity of landscape brings ample food for contemplation and delight. The indispensable discharge of duties in the thronged fort or in the bustling camp, domestic endearments, the making provision for the passing day, the sport of the gun, together with the current events among the tribes, fur- nish unbounded variety to banish unhappiness and ennui. At the very commencement of the fur trade, however, such advantages were never within the reach of the adventurer, whose hazardous strides first traced out the fertile paths of the Far West. Their strength often proved unequal to their task ; yet they had to push on, ignorant of dangers '■jI m n I. :< i: I ■•■ I ;: : J m - :h S^ 1' 1.8' ;'■ K ■ ■ % ''• ^' 286 THE FIRST ADVENTURERS. 1 1 h :i before them, or of obstructions that barred their retreat. They had no settled habitations or forti- fied holds to shelter tliem from the tempest, or from the frenzy of the natives. They were ignorant of the languages, customs, and manners of the tribes, ■whether they were well or ill disposed to them, or lived at peace or war with their neighbours. With- out experience it was not possible always to avert the storms ready to burst over their heads ; neither was it possible to enjoy tranquillity of mind ; and as for comforts, they were unknown. They had, iu fact, everything to dread and guard against. But it must be admitted, that in proportion to the increase in the more essential points of gain, the secondary objects of security, convenience, and comforts have had due attention paid them. And now, establishments of any standing (such as Spokane House was in its day) are by no means wanting in the principal requisites of com- fort. It may be said that the trader of this period has only to reap, in each successive year, at ease, the harvest planted for him by those who went before him. It is so now on the Columbia, and with all that range of country lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific. The roads are pointed out to all new-comers ; the paths known ; the Indians more or less civilised : so that the traders of this day have little left them to do. From a terror of the hardships endured in the Indian, countries, it was seldom that the fii'st H. ATTllACTIONS OF THE FUR TRADE. 287 adventurers could persuade any jiei-sons to follow them who Avere able to live decently at home. Their associates were consequently taken from the common men, who could not either read or write. But the number of independent fortunes amassed in the Indian fur trade at len":tli attracted the at- tention of creditable mercantile houses. Companies were formed, and inducements held out to young men of respectable families ; many of whom, instead of embarking for the West or East Indies, as had been customary, preferi'ed the road to Canada, in order to join the association which had by this time assumed the title of the North- West Company. These young men did not hesitate to sign indentures as clerks for a period of seven years ; and to these were generally attached twice seven more, before such situations became vacant as were to crown their ambition. Hence ordinary men were weeded out of the country, and it is not now strange to find the common Canadian, the half- breed, the civilised Indian, the native of the land, and the man of gentle birth and education, at their respective duties in the same establishment, along the immense chain of communication which extends as far as the Frozen Ocean, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. The fur trade has a mixture of mercantile and military duties. The clerks have charge of trading posts, according to their merits and abiUties ; some upon a very considerable scale. They are first V; t: i| 1 If'l ^i ;|ti n I; 'Ml '■■ : m m^ mi \l t U 4 It:;! i ■ 1 ; i M 'v; . ( ! i tli M i\ !* ? rt i .■ •'!• i ! i: 288 THE BOURGEOIS. taught to obey, afterwards they learn to com- mand ; and at all times much is expected of them. It sometimes happens to be long before they receive the charge of a first-rate establish- ment ; but when the general posture of affairs is propitious to their employers, it is not very often that their laudable desires are disappointed. They at length arrive at the long-wished- for goal of partners, and are entitled to a vote in all weighty decisions of the council : they are thence- forth styled Esquires. The Bourgeois lives in comfort if not luxury. He rambles at his pleasure ; enjoys the merry dance, or the pastime of some pleasing game ; his morning ride, his fishing-rod, his gun, and his dog, or a jaunt of pleasure to the environs in his gay canoe, occupy his time. In short, no desires remain unfulfilled. He is the a'reatest man in the land. The buildinojs belonc:- ing to the Company are both neat and commodious ; each class being provided with separate abodes. The apartments are appropriately divided into bed- rooms, antechambers, and closets. There are also the counting-room, the mess-room, the kitchen, and pantry, the cellars, and Indian hall ; together with handsome galleries. Nor can we pass over in silence one chief object of attraction. Even in this barbarous country, woman claims and enjoys her due share of attention and regard. Her presence brightens the gloom of the solitary post ; her smiles add a new charm to the pleasures of the wilderness. WILD LIFE AND ITS PLEASURES. 289 Nor are tlie ladies deficient in those accomplishments which procure admiration. Altliough descended from aboriginal mothers, many of the females at the different establishments throughout the Indian countries are as fair as the generality of European ladies ; the mixture of blood being so many degrees removed from the savage lis hardly to leave any trace, while, at the same time, their delicacy of form, their light and nimble movements, and the penetrating expression of the " bright black eye," combine to render them objects of no ordinary interest. They have also made considerable pro- gi'ess in refinement, and, with their natural acute- ness and singular talent for imitation, they soon acquire all the ease and gracefulness of polished life. On holidays the dresses are as gay as in longer settled countries ; and on these occasions the gentleman puts on the beaver hat, the ladies make a fine show of silks and satins, and even jewellery is not wanting. It is not surprising, therefore, that the roving North-Wester, after so many rural enjoyments, and a residence of twenty years, should feel more real happiness in these scenes than he can hope for in any other country. Fur traders, from their constant intercourse with Indians, make a free use of tobacco, mixing it, as the Indians do, with a certain herb indigenous to the Indian country ; this, with their favourite beverage, strong tea, constitutes their chief luxury, But, and asjrees well with their mode of life :i ill 1,; ^ il II y In . H I" k f'i ' V. 5 ^ (1: '5i ''■'! iiii ' i Ki M' Bi ;,:mi. i.j t , ifv! ' A u [ lillfiH 290 THE RETIRED FUR TRADER. whether it be the food, mode of living, or climate, it certainly happens that great longevity is seldom known among them on returning to civilised societv. Indeed, there appears to be some fatality attend- ing wealth acquired in the fur trade. Few, very few, indeed, of the hundreds who have retired from that trade during the last quarter of a century — some with competencies, and some with moderate fortunes — have lived to enjoy their hard earnings. Shut out for so many years from civilised society, and all the endearments of social life, the fur trader is wholly unprepared for the wiles practised by designing persons, to whose devices he easily falls a prey ; or perhaps he squanders his means so profusely as to be soon reduced to penmy. On the other hand, should he know the value of money, and be of economical habits, yet having spent the best part of his days in a country where money is little used, and where he lived and roamed for so many years without it, he becomes disgusted with a country where nothing can be procured without it, and where its influence is all powerful ; consequently, the usages of civilised society have no charms for him, and he begins to pine and sigh for days gone by, never to return. He foresees that his wealth mast be left to persons who had no trouble in acquiring it, and who will consequently be less scrupulous in spending it. In fine, whether we look to the Lind '^i ;■,]! CANADIANS AND FREEMEN. 291 of life led by the fur trader, or the prospects which such a life holds out to him, we shall find, from his own experience, that the advantages to be derived from it are by no means an adequate com- pensation for the hardships and privations he has to encounter, and for the sacrifice he had made in renouncing, so early in life, the comforts and privileges to be enjoyed in his native land. Canadians, it is admitted, are best calculated for the endurance of hardships and expedition in the business of light canoe-men. It is seldom that other men are employed in such arduous labour. Indeed, the Canadians, considered as voyageurs, merit the highest praise. Another class, however, remain who merit less praise. They are in this country styled Freemen, because they are no longer the hired servants of the Company. These are generally Canadians, or others, who have spent their better days in the quality of canoe-men in the Company's service, but who have not been provident enough to save part of their earnings for the contingencies of old age ; and who, sooner than return to their own countiy to live by hard labour, resolve on passing the remainder of their days in comparative idleness among the natives. It often happens, however, that young men of vicious and indolent habits join them ; lost, like the others, to all the ties of kindred, blood, country, and Christianity. These freemen may be considered a kind of enlightened U 2 (! r! :i r. ^il Iff »•' 292 FREEMEN. /•# ii, ■1 Indians, with all their faults, but none of their good qualities ; and this similarity to the Indians in their vagrant mode of life brings on them the contempt of both whites and natives. Indeed, they become more depraved, more designing, and more subtle than the worst of Indians ; and they instruct the simple natives in every evil, to the great detriment of traders : with whom, in consequence, they are never on a friendly footing. They live in tents, or in huts, like the natives, and wander from place to place in search of game, roots, and herbs. Sometimes they live in the utmost abundance ; but, as they are not always expert hunters, nor industrious, they have at times to undergo the extremities of want. In this case they are objects of commiseration, and the traders not unfrequently administer to their wants ; but such is their ingratitude, that they are seldom known to make them a grateful return. On account of their rapacity, they do not always maintain a perfect understanding with the tribe to which they are attached ; but Indians are so friendly to whites of every description when they tlirow themselves upon their mercy, that an in- stance of cruelty to a freeman is seldom or never heard of. They fall victims sometimes to the fury of an opposite or adverse nation at war ; but, ottherwise, they are by no means an unhappy race, and they commonly live to an advanced age. There cannot be a better test for knowing a worth- 'i SANDWICH ISLANDERS. 293 fV less and bad character in this country than his wishing to become a freeman — it is the true sign of depravity, either in a wayward youth or back- shding old man. They seldom agree with one another, and are generally sciittered amongst the natives by ones and twos only. Collectively, there may be at present about fifty or sixty on the Columbia ; but in all other parts of the Company's territories they are far more numerous. The next class we have to notice are natives of the Sandwich Islands. It was from this people that captains, in their coasting trade, augmented their crews in steering among the dangerous na- tives from Columbia River to Behring's Straits j and, from this precedent, the inland traders adopted them when their complement of Canadians hap- pened to fall short of their demands. They are submissive to their masters, honest, trustworthy, and willingly perform as much duty as lies in their power ; but they are exceedingly awkward in everything they attempt ; although they are somewhat industrious, they are not made to lead, but to follow, and are useful only to stand as sen- tinels, to eye the natives, or go through the drudgery of an establishment. It has often been found, however, that they are not wanting in courage, particularly against the Indians, for whom they entertain a very cordial contempt ; and, if they were let loose against them, they would rush upon them like tigers. The prin- i m 'n ! ; i"5 n ft ! \1 ii f \ ] ■* 14 ini p^ iiji 'vr ■' < i! •■ic r ri? 294 SANDWICH ISLANDERS. cipal purpose for which they were useful on the ColumLia was, as an array of numbers in the view of tlie natives, especially in the frequent voyages up and down the communication ; and, doubtless, they might have been found more serviceable had not a dulness on their part, and an impression of their insufficiency on ours, prevented both sides from any great degree of intercourse. Being ob- tained, however, for almost their bare victuals and clothing, the difference in the expense between then). and Canadians forms a sufficient consideration to keep up the custom of employing more or less of this description of men. The contrast is great between them here and in their own country, where they are all life and activity; for, when I saw them there, I tliought them the most active people I had ever seen. This difference in their habits I am inclined to attribute to the difference of climate, their own being favourable to them in a high degree. When we consider the salubrity of the Sandwich Islands, it is hardly to be wondered that the unhappy native, when transplanted to the snows and cold of the Rocky Mountains, should experience a decay of energies. From exposure to the wet and damp prevalent at the mouth of the Columbia, many of them become consumptive, and find their grave in the stranger's land. The Owhyhees, however, are such expert swim- mers, that few of our effects were lost beyond re- eful on the in the view ent voyages d, doubtless, viceable had mpression of both sides Being ob- victnals and etween them iideration to re or less of here and in all life and I, I thought 1 ever seen. inclined to their own rree. When vich Islands, le unhappy vs and cold mce a decay } and damp 3ia, many of eir grave in cpert swim- beyond re- inoQUOis. 295 covery, when accident now and then consigned them to the bottom of the water in our perilous navi- gations ; and it is next to impossible for a ixjrson to get drowned if one or more of tliem are neai* at hand ; for in that element they are as active and expert as they are the reverse on dry land. They habitually testify a fidelity and zeal for their master's welfare and service, highly creditable to them. There are at this time only about a score of these men in the country. Among the people employed are a set of civilised Indians from the neighbourhood of Montreal, chiefly of the Iroquois nation ; at tins period they form nearly a tliird of the number of men employed by the Company on the Columbia. Tliey are expert voyageurs, and especially so in the rapids and dan- gerous mns in the inland waters, which they eitlier stem or shoot with the utmost skill. The object of introducing them into the service of the traders was to make them act in the double capacity of canoe-men and trappers. They are not esteemed equal to tlie ablest trappers, nor the best calculated for the voyage. They are not so inoffensive as the Owhyhees, nor to be trusted as the Canadians. They are brought up to religion, it is true, and sing hymns oftener than paddling songs ; but those who came here (and we are of course speaking of none else) retain none of its precepts : they are sullen, indolent, fickle, cowardly, and treacherous. And an Iroquois ar- i. m ^'^n .»;; 290 TRADERS WIVES. (iJ ': ' ti iii' ' t!l ^r^l ■I 1 ', |l!:i k:i rived at manhood is still as wayward and ex- travagant as a lad of other nations at the age of fifteen. We shall now draw the attention of our readers to another class, the last we propose to notice — Indian women and the half-breeds of the country. About the different establishments, there are some of the natives employed in the capacity of servants ; some as out-door drudges, some as cooks, some as fishermen, and some as couriers. They are often found useful among their own tribe or those in the neighbourhood. In the establishments belonging to the whites, in the Columbia, are many Indian women, as wives to the different classes of people in the employ of the Company. These may be in all about fifty. Some of them have large families ; and the tender- ness existing between them and their husbands presents one great reason for that attachment which the respective classes of whites cherish for the Indian countries. The vigilance of these women has often been instrumental to the safety of the forts, when the most diabolical combinations were set on foot by the natives. As it frequently happens that their husbands go home to Canada, with the means of living at their ease, these women must of necessity rejoin their respective tribes ; where they generally remain in a state of widowhood during a year or two, in expec- tation of their return. If the husband does not HALF BREKDS. 2J)7 return, the woman then bestows her liand on one of his comrades who has the good fortune to please lier fancy the best. Habituated to the manners of the whites, they prefer living wHh them for the rest of their lives, and generally prove faithful to their husbands. They are likewise much attached to their families — a disposition inherent in all Indians. Nor are they wanting in many other qualities necessary to form the good housekeeper ; they are tidy, saving, and industrioua "When they rejoin their tribe, the whites find them very friendly, and they never fail to influence their connections to the same end. By these means, a close alliance is formed between the traders and the aborigines of the country ; which might, by means of their offspring, be instrumental in bringing civilisation among the Indians, were there some wise policy adopted for the government and care of half-breeds, whose destiny it is to be left in indigence by poor parents in this far distant region of the earth. Some benevolent society would, no doubt, if set on foot, meet with all due encouragement. Ways might be devised, by appointing an agent or guardian to each district of the country, for the due superintendence, maintenance, clothing and edu- cation of all such poor children as are left in the Indian countries. I am convinced, from my own experience in these parts, that nothing of the kind could ever work well unless the Hudson's Bay j] II i1 ii I m /; _l'^ M(. 'l sj ( ' J' III U M J* . ^.f " \ ,! ■ I. '..li 1 ' '"' ii" f i ! t 1 1 1 I i I if,:i f K ■ 298 BRUI-ES. Company were to take tlie management of it : that alone would ensure its success. For the promotion of this benevolent design, an appeal is here made to the philanthropic disposition of the Honourahle Compan}^, who now preside over that great family of mankind inhabiting a tract of Indian country from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Pacific to the Frozen Ocean. Half-breeds, or, as they are more generally styled, hruUs, from the peculiar colour of their skin, being of a swarthy hue, as if sun-burnt, as they grow up resemble almost in every respect the pure In- dian ; with this difference, that they are more designing, more daring, and more dissolute. They are indolent, thoughtless, and improvident ; licen- tious in their habits ; unrestrained in their desires ; sullen in their disposition ; proud, restless, clan- nish, and fond of flattery. They alternately asso- ciate with the whites and tlie Indians, and thereby become falsely enlightened ; acquiring all the bad qualities of both. But the more unfortunate part of them are those bom of wealthy parents, or men holding the rank of gentlemen in the service : such as bourgeois and clerks. Tliese men have often been remarkable for indulging their children ; and instead, therefore, of teaching their ofispring industry and frugality, they allow them to run about the establishment, learning, among Indians, freemen, voyageurs and others, every vice that can degrade human nature. "i \'i' n^ Is; i ■ '-I il; -J 304 RAPID TRAVELLING. every person advances to the waterside, and great guns arc fired to announce tlie bourgeois' arrival. A general shaking of hands takes place, as it often happens that people have not met for years: even the bourgeois goes through this mode of salutation with the meanest. There is, perhaps, no country where the ties of affection are more binding than here. Each addresses his comrades as his brothers ; and all address themselves to the bourgeois with reverence, as if he were their father. From every distant department of the Com- pany, a special light canoe is fitted out annually, to report their transactions. The one from the Columbia sets out from the Pacific Ocean the 1st of April, and, with the regularity and rapidity of a steamboat, it reaches Fort William, on Lake Superior, the 1st of July ; remaining there till the 20 th of that month, when it tctkes its depar- ture back, and, with an equal degree of precision, arrives at Foit George, at the mouth of the Columbia River, on the 20 th October. A light canoe, likewise, leaving the Pacific, reaches Montreal in a hundred days ; and one from Montreal to the Pacific in the same space of time : thus performing a journey of many thousand miles, without delay, stoppage, or scarcely any repose, in the short period of little more than six months. Having now concluded our remarks on the different classes of whites, of half-breeds, and 'I TRIBES OF FORT NKZ TERCES. 30i others, connected with the trade of this country, we resume the subject of Fort Nez Perces quarter. The different Indian tribes inhabiting the coun- try about Fort Nez Perces often go to war on their southern neighbours the Snakes, but do not follow war as a profession. They, hkewise, fre- quently go to the buffalo-hunt, as the Flatheads and othors west of the mountains do. They are inhabitants of the plains, live by the chase, and are generally known and distinguished by the name of "black robes," in contradistinction to those who live on fish. They are easily known from their roving propensities, their dress, cleanli- ness, and independence. Being rich in horses, they seldom walk on foot; they are expert hunters, good warriors, and are governed by far more powerful and influential chiefs than any of the other tribes on the Columbia. We do not intend to follow them through all the varied scenes of their warlike exploits, — for that has already been more or less done in our remarks on the Snake corntry; yet that the reader may have a more correct idea of their habits and general appearance on such occasions we shall first present him with a short description of a warrior and his horse, ready accoutred for a war exp'idition ; pointing out to him their gene- ral treatment of slaves taken in war; and con- clude the subject of our remarks in this chapter with a brief vocabulary of their language. Jit [ , i ■ ) ; .«; ir m t * " 4 ii? 'Hi 1 V 306 THE WARRIORS HEAD-DRESS. I' '\ :.i: ri p \ s3!,S;.„ Tlie tribes of Fort Nez Forces we have enumerated already ; on the present occasion, we shall more particularly direct the reader's attention to the Wallawalla, the Cayouse, and the Shaw-ha-ap-ten tribes. The last mentioned is the Chappunish of Lewis and Clarke. First, then, as to the war chiefs head-dress — a matter of great importance. It consists of the entire skin of a wolfs head, with the ears standing erect, fantastically adorned with bears' claws, birds' feathers, trinkets and bells. The next item is a wreath of curiously-studded feathers, resembling a ruff or peacock's tail, which is entwined round the cranium, and hangs down the back to tlie gi'ound like a banner ; when tlite chief is on horseback, it floats six or seven feet in the air. The loss of this is the loss of honour. The price of a first-rate war head-dress is two horses. The body is clothed with a shirt, or gar- ment of thin-dressed leather, cut and chequered into small holes, and painted or tattooed with a variety of devices. A black leathern girdle strapped tightly round the waist confines the garment, and holds the mystical medicine bag and decorated calumet — articles, in the chiefs estimation, of no ordinary value. His weapons are the gun, the iance, the scalping-knife, and a bulky quiver oi arrows. Although thus accoutred, he appears nowise embarrassed ; indeed, one must actually see a warrior to believe with what dexterity and ease he can use each weapon, and how nimbly he K, s- TJIE WAB-IIOllSK. 307 uinerated lall more II to tlie -lia-ap-ten ppunish of , the war mportance. head, with rtTied with and bells, sly-studded tail, which langs down ; when the even feet in of honour. ress is two ihirt, or gar- chequered looed with a •die strapped arment, and |d decorated [ation, of no le gun, the y quiver oi he appears LUst actually exterity and nimbly he can change one for another, as occiision may re- quire. Next comes the fiivourite war-horse ; a descrip- tion of which will convey but a faint idea of the reality. Although horses are generally cheap and easily purchased by the natives, yet no price will induce an Indian chief to part with his war-horse. Those entirely white are preferred ; next to white, the speckled, or white and black, are most in demand. Generally, all horses of these fancy colours are claimed by the chiefs, in preference to any other, and are, therefore, double or treble the value of others. As much pains is bestowed to adorn, paint, and caparison a war-horse as a warrior himself. On the occasion I am now describing, the horse was a pure white. After painting the animal's body all over, and drawing a variety of hieroglypliic devices, the head and neck were dappled with streaks of red and yellow ; the mane dyed black, the tail red, clubbed up in a knot, and tied short ; to this knot was appended two lone: streamers of feathers, sewed to a leather thonof by means of sinews ; the feathers, which reached the ground, forming as it were two artificial tails, which, in addition to ornament, served the rider to lay hold of while in the act of crossing rivers. A bunch of feathers as big as a broom, standing some twenty inches above the ears, ornamented the horse's head; and the rider, as well as tlie horse, was so besmeared with red, blue, and yellow ochre, that no X 2 'i: 1'^ I 308 A PARADE. DEXTEROUS HORSEMEN. \< I I i '; » i;'j one could tell what the natural colour of either was. Five or six hundred men, thus mounted and armed, present a somewhat grand and imposing appearance, when, a few days before setting out on these expeditions, the whole cavalcade parade and manoeuvre about their camp. But the most interest- ing part, of the scene is not yet told. On one occasion, I went purposely to see them. One of the principal chiefs, at the commencement, mounted on horseback and took up his stand on an eminence near the camp, while at the same time the whole troop, mounted in fighting order, assembled in a group around him. After this chief had harangued them for some time, they all started off at a slow trot, but soon increased their pace to a gallop, and from a gallop to a full race, the cleverest fellow taking the lead. In this manner they went round the tents. During all the time silence prevailed within the camp : while the horsemen continued shouting or yelling, and went through all the attitudes peculiar to savages. At one moment, they threw themselves to the right, the next to the left side of the horse, twisting and bending their bodies in a thousand different ways ; now in the saddle, then out of the saddle, and nothing frequently to be seen but the horses, as if without riders, parrying or evading, according to their ideas, the onset of their assail- ants. I could very easily conceive that the ral SLAVES TAKEN IN WAR. 309 merit of the manoeuvres "svas not who could kill most of his enemies, but who could save himself best in battle. So dexterous and nimble were they in changing positions, and slipping from side to side, that it was done in the twinkling of an eye. As soon as the manoeuvring Wiis over, they were again harangued, and dismissed. The subject next to be considered is the treat- ment of the slaves taken in war. On their return from an expedition, the war-party keep in a body, and observe the same order as at starting, until they reach home ; when, if successful, their shouting, yelling, and chaunting the war-song fill the air. The sound no sooner reaches the camp, than the whole savage horde, young and old, male and female, sally forth ; not, however, to welcome the arrival oi" their friends, but to glut their desire of implacable revenge by the most barbarous cruel- ties on the unfortunate captives, who are considered as slaves and treated as such. The slaves, as is customary on such occasions, are tied on horseback, each behind a warrio::. But the squaws no sooner meet them, then they tear them down from the horses without mercy, and then begin trampling on them, tearing their heads and flesh, cutting their ears, and maiming their bodies with knives, stones, sticks or other instru- ments of torture. After thus glutting their revenge, they drive the slaves to the camp. It is then settled unalterably what the slaves 'H I 1 ' ) Iff r, Jl: il i 310 SCALP DANCE. arc doomed to sufTer. Every afternoon, some hours Lt'fore sunset, the c-anip makes a grand tura out for dancing the scalf)S. For this dance, two rows of men, a liundrcd yards long or more, arrange tliemselves face to face, and about jBfteen feet apart. Inside these, are Hkewise two rows of women, facing each other, leaving a space of about five feet broad in the middle for the slaves ; ■who, arranged in a line, occupy the centre in a row by themselves. Here the unfortunate victims, male and female, are stationed with long poles in their hands and naked above the waist, while on the ends of these poles are exhibited the scalps of their mur- dered relations. The dancing and chorus then commence ; the whole assemblage keeping time to the beat of a loud and discordant sort of drum. The parties all move side ways, to the right and left alternately, according to the Indian fivshion. The slaves, at the same time, moving and keeping time with the others. Every now and then a general halt takes place, when the air resounds with loud shouts of joy, and yell upon yeU proclaim afar their triumph. All this is but a prelude to the scenes that follow. The women, placed in the order we have stated, on each side of the slaves, and armed with the insti-uments of torture, continue jeering them with the most distorted grimaces, cutting them with knives, piercing them with awls, pulling them by the hair, and thumping them with fist, stick or i'M '!!■ WOMEX TORTURING SLAVKS. 311 stone, in every possiMe way tliat ain torment, "without killing them. The loss of an ear, a tooth, the joint of a fin^'er, or part of a scalj) torn off during these frantic fits, are nightly occurrences. And if the wretches thus doomed to suiier, hapijen not to laugh and huzza (wliich in their situation would almost be beyond the efforts of human nature) or if they fail to raise or lower, according to caprice, the scali)s in regular order, they are doubly tor- mented and unmercifully handled. On these occasions, some termagjint often pounces upon her victim, who not unfrequently falls sense- less to the ground under the intliction of wounds. And if any slave happens, from a sudden blow, to start back i little out of line, a woman in the rear instantly inflicts another wound, wliich never fails to urge the same victim as fir forward ; so that they are often pushed backwards and forwards, till at last they become insensible. The men, however, take no part in these cruel- ties ; but are mere silent spectators : they never interfere, nor does one of them during the dancing menace or touch a slave : all the barbarities are perpetrated by the women. These are the only examples I have ever witnessed among savages, of women outdoing the men in acts of inhu- manity, or where S3"mpathy is not regarded as a virtue by the sex. But then, we must take into consideration that it is a part of the law of tho I ! t m hi. iih ''I 'si i4 312 FATE OF THE SLAVES. I ; i'' I J ■ I ' ! i I f Ml' V tribes : it is a duty wliicli the females, according to the customs of war, are bound to perform. When these acts of savage life happen near the establishments, curiosity occasionally induces the whites to attend ; and on one occasion I stood for some time looking on ; but as 1 could do nothing but pity, I soon withdrew from tlu; heart-rending scene. At dusk, the dancing ceases, and the slaves are thenceforth conveyed to the camp, washed, dressed, fed, comfortably lodged, and kindly treated, until the usual hour of dancing the following day arrives, when the same routine of cruelties is gone tlnrough. Tliis course is generally persisted in for five or six days, without intermission, and then discontinued altogether. From that time, tlie slaves are no longer considered in the camp as common pro- perty, but are placed under the care of their respective masters, and subject only to them. Their treat- ment ever after is generally as good as could be expected, and is often according to their own merit ; they are nevertheless at all times subject to be bought, sold, and bartered away, in the same manner as any other article of property belonging to the owner. f:':' I 1 ;•; APPENDIX. "Vocabulary op the Languages spoken by the Nez PEBct-a AND OTHER TrIBES INHABITING THE COUNIRY ABOUT THE Gre^it Forks op Columbia Eiver. One . Laughs. Two . . Napete. Three . Melapte. Four. . Peenapte. Five . . Puchate. Six . . 0" E' T ;i^ 'ii ■ h\ t :' ' ' : I In'! ;'t ' f-p •'■ 318 VOCABULARY. Red cloth . Luts »p eye at. Bead . Istsit. Handsome . Sheaughouet. i:giy . . . Mill^eah. Gun . . Tooenpass. Powder . Pueh|Hiehas. Balls . Tsap. Shirt . ShammaBgh. Coat, or Capot . . Tatpass. Bells . QuiUall quillall Axe . , Watsueket. Beaver . Weeepoose. Otter . JTuksa}', Swan . Ou ou. Goose . Ack Ack, Ducks . \Vh»t What. Elk . . Mo luck. Deer . Lums lums. Hat . . Thackamalley. Canoe . Wassaes. Trousers . . Soolattaas. Mittens . . Simeigh. Tall . . Quahat. Short . Khkh waw. Fire . . E' Looks. Wood . E' Looquass. Stone . Push wah. Eiver . Chooas. Arrived . . Amvasats}'. To eat . . Quat at. Shoes . lillcome. I think so . AwMpmchsaw. To sleep . . Epinyouessah. Take that . . Illwhen citah. Understand . E* yexah. Iron . Chadiyex. Pipe . Kalumet. Pipe stem . . PatwackasB. ■ i A i VOCABULAEY. Name .... Bays. Sick . E' payyouassah. New • Tshimtea. There . Auqainah. To ask . Anatsan. Fresh . Thlup thlup. Come here . Wenam. To fill up . Apshitat. Earth . Whililth. Good . Sheaugh. Bad . . Kap cheese. Bufiulo . Moose mooso. To-morrow . Mofcsechaiu. Yesterday . Watem. Flesh . Necoot. Bows . Pispes. What . Mesh. Perhaps . Quaracsh. Falsehood . . E' tsiska. Wild . Washaole. Bulky . TotUth. Badger . Sheekey. Barrier . Whamass. It is true . Koeam. To get wel . Wakesh. Afraid . Askouas. But . . TickAny. And . . Ach. They said it . E' notsuah. Thief . Pallwheeawah. To break . . Autleck. Cold. . E' youyeass. Shoot . Hanaaocaugh. Halter . Hoco. 5| Gun worm . Iscalatouche. Sangle . E' twotiean. Saddle ^ . . Towlashieetco>vs. Come in . Koom. 319 "Wf'ff , h! i m,v i^i^'! I 1 i 't Pit- f I Ti. 320 VOCABULARY. To-day .... Wctase."' Ears . • « . Mittseyeyou. Mouse . Lacas. More . Wappncy. Day . . E' whychaneigh Night . Istsatpa. Dry . . Cheau. Snow. . Pooeigh. Sun . . Aan. Moon . Illchy. Salmon . Newsaugh. Chief . Mcyoughat. Island . Immah. Calm . Epshitanough. Stars . Shaslow. Wind . Holea. Vermillion . Sappens. Provisions . Seps. Be still . . Ausheaugh. Gooff . E' yetass. Elsewhere . Houghpeen. Porcupine quilU . Shatsass. Grass . Sawitah. Ko more . Tloupau. That. . Ke. Near to . Kemptem. Kettle . Kekay. Flint . Apps. Very big . Mackish. Very little . Meelass. When . Sheen. Blanket . Sheeskan. Robe . . Outpass. Shot . . Kacasill. Knife . Waltz. Looking G lass . . E' penatootoose. To steal . . E' puchwissah. To speak . . Tamtie. -m ' ! ki .! VOCABULARY. 321 To trade . Just now . By and byo Hungry . Bung it . Beads Fat . To sell . Mouth ^laidcn To give . Straight . War-party . Sliortly . These Take it away To forget . Trap for Beaver To see Long since For ever . House . Tammeass. . Wochy wochy. . Kots kotg. . lax. . Homctess. . Calallan. . Tcshwhou. . E' twopaw. . I mm. . Tiinmy. Quay pin. . Tcqucccck. . TuUykies. . Tsatpa. . Callow. . lUwhitat. • Billeyes. . Tooks. . E' Toockaunah. . Mecma. . Quallisonch. . Incat. A good many of the words in this language, as fresh, balls, brass, consist in a repetition of tlie Avord : as in the language of the Sandwich islanders. The word " Laughs '* in this language is not pro- nounced with a contraction of the lips as the same word is in English, but has an "ach" from the throat ; in pronouncing it, therefore, the lips do not move : it is a guttural sound. Having given a short vocabulary of the principal language spoken by the tribes about Fort Nez Percys, we must next advert to the annoying fact, that Y (' • 322 VOCABULARY. I'f... l! i : ' rr ■r ■; '1. rfll:! the natives of that place differ somewhat from most other Indian tribes. Not contented with one lan- guage, they must have a plurality of languages ; this, however convenient to them, is certainly em- barrassing to the trader, who finds it no easy task to acquire one, and still more difficult to acquire two or three at the same place. The constant in- tercourse with slaves, the result of war and the roving and unsettled habits of the people, may in some measure account for this anomaly. The youngsters picking up the jargon of the slaves as quickly as their own, completes the melange be- yond redemption; so that at the present day, it is scarcely possible to draw a distinct line between their own language and that of strangers. That distinction can only be imderstood, by a long application, and close intercourse with the natives of the place. Three Indians, for example, all belonging to the same tribe, perhaps the same family, might ai-rive at the same establishment, having each exactly the same article to sell, and yet, strange as it may appear, no two of them would probably name that article the same way. One would say " Tamme- cess taxpool,'' I wish to trade a beaver. Another, " Towfeyou weespoose," I wish to trade a beaver. While the third, differing from both his companions, might say, " E'Towpa E'yechse,'' I wish to trade a beaver. In addition, therefore, to the foregoing, other words, bearing exactly the same meaning. ■«■ 3i VOCABULABY. 823 consti\ntly occur ; of which, the following is a brief specimen. »ran . Winch. Woman . . Tealacky. Boy . . Tuchnoot. Girl . . Petcn. Large . Intsc. Neck . Yahat. Deer . Tipec tipcc. Pipe . 0' Tshalamat. No . . . . Taya. Hungry . . Annawcsna. Beads . Kopit. To trade . . TowC vou. Just now . . Quillallcigh. By and bye . Quamoonewattah Hair . . . . . Kokoo. Eyes . . Atchass. Shot . . Mill upwaqulll. Knife . Whapallrach. White . Pillaspcat. Dead . Tepopstyou. Rings . Sapwhillkasa. Tobacco . . Paypayhiss. You . . E' men. Iron . . . . . Kctsyouycah. Beaver . E' yecha. Beaver . Taxpool. Pipe stem . Paeekat. Balls . E' Lupat. Buttons . Sill Hill. Horse . Koosy. I myself . . Wiseyecame. Bring it . . Anncta. Gun . . . . . Suckquallallah. Y 2 J '» ■I'^'V » i ' '! ) f ,f J 324i TABLE OF TUE WEATHER Table op the Weatiieb at Fout Nez PEROifa, Forks op Columbia lliv£ii^ for tu£ year 1822. Month and Yiar. 1822. Jan. Kfti^'i ■ » » » » J) » >» » » » » Feb. Date. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 IG 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 23 29 30 31 1 2 3 4 Winds. S. W. » » » >» >» E. W. s.'w. N.E. » S.'w. » » » » w. s. w. » N.E. W. N.E. Weather. A.M. Clear. Mild.., Cold .., Frosty » Hazy.. Clear. Snow fall ... Thaw Clear » » it Frosty » Clear P.M. Clear. >» Frosty, Cold Frosty. Thawing. Hazy. Cold. Foggy. Clear Rcmaiks. Strong wind. » » If Frosty Clear. Snow fall Frosty ... Clear. Cloudy Froaty. Clear . Cloudy Clear » Clear. Cloudy. Soft weather. 13-in. snow. Snow. Strong frost. Snow fall. Very cold. Cold wtathcr. Frosty. Strong Avind. Snow fall. iPPlJ is- AT FORT NKZ PERCKS. 325 Month and Year. ItUJ. Feb. >» i» n M n » }> » ft n >» >f }» » >» » >» Mar. >» >» » >» » » ft ft It i> » Date. Winds. 5 7 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 N.W. II ft s.w. N.'w. w. tt ft n."e. tl ft »» »» w. » s. w. w. s. tt s.w. N.W. N. w. s.w. N.W. S.W. w. s.w. Wenther. A.M. Clear. ft It ft ft Cloudy Clekr... Frosty . Clear.... Cloudy . Dull .... Clear.... Cloudy . tt ft Windy Cloudy Clear... Warm Clear .. Cloudy Clear... Cloudy ft It It Clear... Cloudy Clear... Tlainy Clc^.r... Cloudy Clear. P.M. Cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Clear. >» »> Cloudy. Frosty. Cold. >i Windy. Clear. ft Cloudy. It Clear. It Cloudy. Clear. Soft. Warm Clear. Snow fall ... Clear. Cloudy...... Clear. » Rainy. Little rain . . Clear. Cloudy. Rainy. Clear. Remark*. Gale of wind. Rainy . Cloudy. Fair weather. Clear Ilcavj- snow fall. Snow thawa. Fall of 4 in. Snow mclLs. 5 Weather ( changeable. \vVann. Pleasant. •Ri '. H';/' l! '< I't ' ' -I 326 TABLE OF THE WEATHER i.r, i Month and Year. 1U22. Weather. Date. 21 22 Winds. Remarks. A.M. P.M. !Mar. S. W. w. Clear Clear. i> It 23 » It n 24 » Cloudy 11 25 s.w. It Rainy. 26 Clear Cloudy II Snow mplt.. 27 It KJAAV TT AIXVXU. 28 if II II 29 ft Cloudy 11 30 w. i> i> Apr. 31 1 2 N. W. N. » Dry Clear Warm, Clear ClPAr. » 3 » » 1} 4 S. W. Cloudy II 5 Clear 6 » If II 7 E. II Cloudy Changeable. 8 >i f> u & j> It » 10 S.W. Cloudy Clear. 11 Clear 12 99 w. It 1) II 13 M ft It 14 » It It 16 16 17 >* 1) If \ Snow all dis- ( appeared. l> n It It II If 18 19 S.W. Clear It II II 20 » » II 21 t) i> If 22 Tt n ft 23 n It f> 24 It Cloudy If 25 It Clear Cloudy Changeable. 26 It It Clear. 27 It II If 28 >f ti If 29 w. Warm Warm. 30 S.W. Clear Clear Very warm. May 1 w. Clear Clear. %i 2 It » It 8 II >i >» AT FORT NEZ PERCL^S. 827 Month and Year. 1822. Weather. Date. Winds. Remarks. A.M. P.M. May 4 5 W. Clear Clear. Cloudy Sultrj-. n ?> G s. w. » Clear. 3! 4 » j> >> t) 8 >» Cloudy «> If 9 » Clear Cloudy. }> 10 11 » 1) Clear. )> 12 » » » )l » }) » » 13 N. E. )} >> » 14 S. W. )f )> » 15 » >» Cloudy. » 16 N. E. Cloudy Clear. }> 17 » >> » )> 18 19 )} Clear >» 1) 20 21 S. » >) » ;> J) » 22 » jj >> !) 23 » J> }) >l 24 )> » » Thunder. )l 25 s. w. )> f) » 26 » >> >» » 27 }} Rainy Cloudy. >> 28 » Clear !> » 29 » » » >> 30 » )> !> Strong wind. » 31 >> J) Calm. June 1 2 3 w. Sultry Calm. 1 Thunder and >» » » )j ( lightning. }> » )> »> » 4 » Clear Clear. » 5 f) » » » 6 7 )> » )j ;> » » )> » 8 N.E. >> )> >> 9 »» )> )> » 10 S. >! •> » 11 » J> >> )> 12 » » j» » 13 s. w. Windy Sultrj'. » 14 » » >i >> 15 )> t> ) >} 16 »> n >> f 328 TABLE OF THE WEATHER »i MS- i ) ■> I 'I : h h \ jfif Month and Year. 1022. June »» »> »> >i »> »> » July » » It » » >) }) » » » >» » Date. Winds. n s. w. 18 » 19 » 20 n 21 » 22 It 23 It 24 It 25 II 26 1) 27 ti 28 It 29 >> 30 w. 1 s. 2 » 3 » 4 b.w. 5 » 6 n 7 II 8 It 9 II 10 II 11 II 12 It 13 II 14 It 15 It 16 It 17 II 18 II 19 II 20 II 21 It 22 It 23 » 24 w. 26 11 26 It 27 It 28 N.W. 29 It 80 11 Weather. A.M. Windy- Clear... Sultry Cloudy Fair ... II Clear... » i> I) I) Clear... » It It » It » It Cloudy Clear... If !l I) It l» It It Sultry 11 » It It n >i )i It Cloudy Clear... P.M. Cloud}' Sultry. Clear. Calm. Rain ... Sultry. »> Clear. It It It It Clear. It II II Cloudy Clear. Windy. Clear. II It II It II I' It Very warm . n Dull Cloudy .... Sultry. Drops rain. Clear. Remarks. Strong wind. Changeable. Hca\'>' Thunder. Hazy.' Dull. Sultry. Strong wind. Thunder. Hazy. 5 Thunder and I lightning. Greatest heat. Calm. AT FOllT NEZ PERCl^S. 329 reatest heat. Month and V'ear. 18i'->. Weather. Date. 31 Windi. Remarks. P M. July N.W. Clear Clear. Aug. 1 W. )} >i » 2 i> » )> )) 3 » »> » Thunder. » 4 N. W. l> » » 5 » Cloudy It » 6 >> Sultry It » 7 >» »> Very warm. ft 8 S. >> Clear. 5> 9 i> i> » » 10 »i j> Cloudy. » 11 »> » Clear. >l 12 » ji j> » 13 » »i » » 14 )f >» It » 15 >» i> It t> 16 >» Rainy It Ji 17 » Clear tt » 18 S. A7. i» It Hazy weather. » 19 » » It >) 20 » » II » 21 » )f II » 22 » >> II n 23 1) >> It » 24 >» it II » 25 >» )> Cloudy Lightning. » 26 >i ft Hazy. » 27 » t> » 28 29 S. Clear Calm. Ilain. It » 30 w. » Clear Changeable. » 31 » If » High wind. Sept. 1 s. w. Cloudy Clear. u 2 » i> )i f) 3 ;> Cloudy » Thunder. » 4 » Clear >j » 5 u » >i » 6 s. >» II » 1 )> II 11 » 8 It » II 9 r. "^ Cloudy ^ Thunder and » >» »» ][ lightning. » 10 w. II Clear. » 11 » >» It » 12 » »> It 'V pi ii:' w ri'i 330 TABLE OF THE WEATHER Month and Year. 1«22. Sept. » » » }> >> )) » » Oct. » » » » Date. 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 1 2 8 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Winds. w. N.'W. S. > > s. N W. s s. N. E. E. W. E. W. W. s. . w. w. Weather. A.M. P.M. Clear... Cloudy Clear... » llainy Cloudy Cloudy Clear... Cloudy . Clear..., Gloomy, Clear..., » Cloudy Clear... Clear. Calm. » Clear. Rainy. Clear. Cloudy Clear. llainy. Dull .., Rainy. Clear. Rainy Clear. Cloudy ... Rainy ... Clear Very fine Clear Hazy Rainy. Clear. Veiy fine. Clear. Cold . Clear . Cloudy Rainy Clear.., St it )i » Cloudy Rainy. Clear. Cold. Remarks. Strong wind. Heavy thunder. Drops of .in. Changeable. Raw weather. Strong wind. Cold weather. AT FORT NEZ PERCYS. 331 emarks. Month and Year. 1022. ng wind. ,vy thunder. ps of .in. mgcable. 7 weather. )ng •wind. d weather. 'Oct. » » If Nov. » » » » » » » }} » » » » » » » Dec. » » » Date. 28 29 30 31 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Winds. w. » N.'w. W. >> E. >f S. E. N. S. N. W. S. E. W. S. E. s. w. » » N.'W S. E. » E. N.'w. N.W. s. w. N. N.AV. >i )> Vv". Weather. A.M. Clear.. Dull .. Rainy Clear.. Cloudy >> >t Fair .. Clear.. » » Cold .. i> >> Rainy » Clear,. » » » » Rainy Clear.. Rainy . Clear.. Clear.. » !> >f Rainy Clear.. » P.M. Cold. Dull. Rainy. Clear.... Cloudy. Clear. Rainy, » Clear. Frosty. Dull. Rainj'. Clear. Cold. Clear. Snow fall Clear. Cold. Clear. )> Rainy. Clear » liainy. Clear Cold Clear. Little rain. Clear. Remarks. Pleasant. Heavy mist. Changeable. 4-in. snow. Pleasant. ( Cold clear I weather. ( Gloomy wea- ( . ther. I -I. n r t : ( i . '■ ;n 332 TABLE OF THE WEATHER. Month and Year. 1822. Date. 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Winds. Weather. Remarks. A.M. P.M. Dec. » II II II }> II II >i )) )) » » » 1} II 11 II II II ji N.W. S. N. W. » w. II N.'w. S. E. )) E. II II S.W. n w. » Rainy Clear II II Cloudy II II II Clear Clear. Dull Cloudy weather. 12-in. snowfall. Clear and cold. II Rain. Clear. II II II Snow Snow Clear Clear. II II II >i » II II Cold Frosty. II » » II II Rainy Clear II Frosty II If I I » 333 Remarks. ►udy weather. in. snowfall. 3ar and cold. DIRECTION OF THE WINDS. 1822. January February ... March April May June July August September... October November . . . December ... w. 3 9 7 7 5 9 4 5 5 15 4 6 •9 N.W. 11 50 S.E. 2 5 I 7 4 ' 3 15 18 N. 3 3 2 1 1 10 N.E, 5 8 23 s. 5 3 3 12 8 1 1 1 36 Sj.W. Wet.; Dry. 22 4 11 17 16 16 20 10 1 1 1 o 3 3 10 7 31 25 26 30 30 29 30 29 28 20 24 134 36 329 Greatest degree of heat in the shade during 1822, 110°, Fahr. thermometer. Greatest degree of cold during 1822, 10° below zero, Fahr. thermometer. Woodfall and Kinder, Printers, Angel Court, Skinner Street, Londcn. ( 1' ;r ^ i : : hM i ■ fJ!f»TI :' 1 '■?■> 11 BY THE SAME AUTHOR, In One Volume, price 63. ADVENTUEES OF THE FIRST SETTLERS OX THE OREGON OR COLUMBIA RIVER. Being a Narrative of the Expedition fitted out by John Jacob Astob, to establish "The Pacific Fur Company." With an Account of some Indian Tribes on the Coast of the Pacific. BY ALEXANDER ROSS, ONE OF THE ADVENTURERS. Opinions of the Pkess. " One of the most striking pictures of a life of adventure which we have read for a long time; and as full of instruction as of amusement: few will lay it down who have once taken it up, till the closing page is reached. To the lovers of wild adventure and perils by flood and field, we know of few books likely to prove more welcome than this work of Mr. Ross. It also possesses an interest of another kind for the historical reader and politician."— W