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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul cliche, 11 est ffiimA A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 S 6 THROUGH CANADA WITH A KODAK ^. ^ V/f 6l 1 ».» 'M f.>^Ji^ > ••-vi \ % ,K vi.. "^ -^ r.,-^^. wv. I,,* Y I i /■// jSi^_? C O X T i: \ I' S. I. II. III. i\. V. VI. VII. Vlll. X. \I. XII. XIII. XIV. XV, (»rT\VAUI» llolNIt. <^i i;iii:r, MONTKK.VI,, .\ ( ANAhl AN I.AKK \<>\ \, IN A UAII.WAV ACCIhKNT. TIIK KOCKV MulNTAINS, A VISIT T(» IlKITISII COMMI-.IA. (11 ISAy Ladv AUKKDKKN, ...... The First Icel)erg on the Horizon. /''rom a Sketch by Ladv Ahkrdkkn, . . . . . Ouehec, from the .South Side of the River, ii I lamiltnii I!.iy, 'I'lic Kads nnd I-assii's who accinn|iiiiiitil us, I'liiviisity liuil'lin^^s, 'romntit, ('it|)laiii Macinastrr, ( in\c'liriU'lll I louse, TorniitK, . ' . 'flu- laU- Sir AlfMiinl^r ('ani|ilii'II, ■ lalh <)l Nia^'ara, .... Ahovt.' Niagara, .... \'icu (if ' )ll;iuii, I.ord Stank')' (imu l!arl <<\ I )(.'iliy), - La Mill. Will Tlu' \i( \v from the Terrace outside rirlianient \\\\ Kiileau Hall, ( )ttawa, The Tolio^man Slide at Kidiau Hall, Westward ! . All Aboard ! - . . . The Car in which we travelled West, John r.arher, our Car I'orter, A ^'ounL; Setllenu lit. Mr andMrs O'lirien, All that is left of the lUiflalo, llow a jouriu'y from Wiinii|ieij[ for < )ttawa wa> .u-co in days ^oni- hy, Manilou, Manitolia, (■ireetin<^s from a ( iroup of Manitohans, Mr and Mrs I'eter ( Iraham's (.'ottaj^e, Mr and Mrs John Camphell's Ilou>e, The I)aroui,di i-amily at (llenfern, - Scene of Accident, /-'roj// a Ski/Ji hv L\t>\' Ai;i:ki)i-;KN, Our i;ni,nne, as l'hotot;raphed after the Accident, - Off A.^ain ! - - ^ - A l\eL;inuni of Workers on the Prairie, < )ne of Sir John laster-Kaye\ i)i^r farms in Allierla, Passing; a CarduU of I'.mii;ranls - " Take our I'ictures." Maj) show ini^ rej^ion of Summer drouf^hts in North Anuaica A Horse Kanch near Cali^ury, Ajiproachin^^ the Rockies, .' - . . '■ The Three Sisters,"' - - . . \ iew from the W indow of the Hanff Hotel, Cascade M(,Hnitain, Banff, - . . . Tile \ an Home Kant^e. sketched from lield liy \..\\\\ Al!i:ki)Ki;.\, - " . A Trestle Urid-e. - - - - . iplisliec lAI.K 55 59 ^'.? 67 6.S 73 74 75 76 11 79 So Si S4 <^7 '39 140 VI 11 ]jst of Illustrations. \'anc()uver. -■-''"" The late Mr (>. C. Mackay, Lieut-Clovernor of British Columl)ia, Admiral llolham, ---"'' 11. M.S. "Warspitc," - - ,' • , \, •, ' Lord Ahcr.lccn and I'n.t. II. Drummond in the Railway f^. _ - - ~ • The flit Passenger Train on the Shush vvap and Okanagan Line, - - - ' ' " Mr Lenuime's little Steamer, ".',,.' Transferring the Luggage from the Train to the Steamer, - Entrance Ciate to (Uiisachan Farm, In the Woods of C'.uisachan, 15. C, - " " View from the front-door of (uiisarhan. /'ro/// a sketch hy Lady Abkrdken, - - - ■ " (juisachan, B. C. , - C.oing out for a Bear Hunt. - - ' ' Watching the (iame-bag, - - - ■ ' " Foo."' "nir Chinese Cook. - - - ■ " Willy, the Indian boy, with liis white pony Residence Ko. I, - Resilience No. 2, - Residence Tso. 3, - Residence No. 4, - The C.uisachan Staff, - .; " Starling for a Drive with " Charlie and 1 into, Mr Smkh exhibiting the wild Indian jioiiy, Coutts on " Aleck "'— " Spot ^' in attendance, rianting Scotch Firs from (-uisachan, Inverness-shire, at Cuisachan, B. C, - S.S. " Penticton "' waiting to bear us away, (lood bye I - C.oing to work at Coldstream Ranch, The S.S. " Fmi)ress of India," - - - " Sarcee Indians, ---""" Crowfoot, Chief of the Blackfeet, - - - ' Indian curios. /J';v77C';/ /m' Mr f. Crant, - 215, 216, 217, 225,' 226, 227, 22S, 229, 231, 232, 233, 235> 237, 239, 241. Making a " Brave "' at the Sun-dance, An Indian Lodge or Wigwam, - - ', t 1 1 Eastern part of Rasa-an Village, Prince of \\ ales Island, Alaska, - - ■ ' ' " Memorial bust of Sir John Macdonald, Homeward bound, ----'' I'AC.K 142 143 146 147 148 151 157 159 160 162 163 165 166 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 179 180 iSi I S3 187 191 193 199 201 209 213 214, 234, 219 221 224 245 249 I I. OUTWARD BOUND. ATRIP to Canada ! Yes, we had often talked about it. We had paid a visit to India, Ceylon, Aus- tralia, Tasmania, New Zealand; and we much wished to see something of this other vast and fair Dominion, which forms part of the British Empire. But, in spite of our voyagings, we have never been friends of the sea ; and when we talked of Canada we were always very conscious of the fact that the wild waves of the ocean separated its shores by the space of seven days from Britain. However, last year our desires, coupled with doctor's advice, overcame our fears, and on a fine evening in August we found ourselves dropping down the Mersey on board the s.s. " Parisian " of the Allan Line, one of the largest ships plying between this country and Canadian ports. Have you ever been on board an Atlantic liner when in port? If so, you know how delightful everything looks. A large beautiful deck above, snug little berths below; a splendid saloon, a reading-room, a smoking-room, books, mu.sic, games; A I it i*l Through Canada with a Kodak. and you look in tlie pretty little prospectuses handed to you about the interior arrangements of the ship, and you see {)ictures of a hapj)y comj)any seated at long tai)les enjoying the best of fare, ladies and gentlemen ^ §■ 3 Out-auud Bound - I'hc ''Parisian" '' droftpin;^- d^-on tin: Met scv. singing and playing, reading, and playing at games, and altogether having a good time of it. 1 ,ook at th given in those pages, and say whether life at sea does not seem a very attra(-tive thing, sailing along in one of these anie ])ictures :«l Outward Bound. l)rave ships under a gor)d cai)tain, surrounded hy luxuries, and with no cares, no responsibihties, no work, no telegrams, no letters ? So one thinks, and so one continues to think for an hour or two after starting ; hut wait a wee, and see if you don't begin to wisii that you could gi\e effect to second thoughts, wlien you find yourself tossing about in the Irish Channel in n gale a few hours later. but the least said d iS ot se -•/ Ii night, noi oi the long wait we had next day at iMoviile, near I -ondonderrv, for the l^nglish mails, which had been delaxcd sf)me hours in crossing from Holvhead to Kingstown, in consequence of the storm, I should like, though, to be able to give you a sight of our last glimpse of the shores of " Ould Ireland,"' as we saw them Through Canada with a Kodak. disa])pearing next evening. A succession of bold bluffs and headlands jutting out into the sea, one beyond the other, as far as the eye could reach in the gathering darkness, the green slopes here and there just visible, and the heavy black clouds which had been overhanging us all day fringed with a glory of red and purple and orange. Lord Aberdeen and I leant over the taff-rail and caught some whiffs of a dear familiar peat-smoke, which sent us happy to our cabins that night Pray enquire no further : you shall hear none of our groans. Suffice it to say that the 750 passengers on board were in a decidedly subdued frame of mind for a few days, your Editor amongst the number. vShe had not yet even conceived the idea of telling her friends of the Onward and Upward Association something about this expedition, or elpe she would doutbless have used her Kodak, to bring before you various scenes and attitudes of different degrees of misery. Our fellow- passengers therefore escaped the danger of being introduced thus to you, and I shall hope to show some of them to you in a happier aspect later on. When we began to be in a state to realise one another, we found that we might almost consider ourselves already in Canada. We were of all degrees : cabinet ministers, governors, senators, professors, business men, were there, and so were also emigrants of many various classes and from all countries, bound to many various destinations. -1 Outward Bound. Hf Some were going for the first time to seek their fortune, they knew not where ; some were going out to join friends who had already |)rospered; some were returning from paying a brief visit to their friends in '' the old country," as wc; soon became Canadian enough to call it. Amongst such company, who were all also so willing to impart information to strangers and "tenderfeet" (this being the name for new-comers in Canada), we were able to pick up a good deal about the country and the })eople amongst whom we were going to live for the next three months. I will try to filter down to you a little of what they told us bv deu;rees, but first I want to introduce to vou a number of youthful emigrants, in whom I think you will be specially interested. I'hese are a party of fifty young girls of all ages, from three to seventeen, taken from misery and destitution to Miss Rye's Homes, from whence they will be drafted, either as servants or else ado})ted into colonists' homes. Much care has to be used in selecting only suitable, healthy children for emigration, but when this care is used there are endless openings for them in Canada. Miss Macpherson, whose name is so well known as having been the first lady to undertake the emigration of children, told us that this year she had had 900 applications for children, of which she had only been able to supply 150. These little ones whom we saw on board the " Parisian" were all full of eager expectation regarding their new 1] ill f I Through (Canada with a Kodak. homes, and, after the first few days of sea-sickness and discomfort consequent on the vaccination to which every steerage passenger to (.'anada must submit, they made themselves very hai)i)y with their skipping-ropes and various games. A part of the ship had been partitioned off and fitted up on purpose for them — a httle dining })lace, a row of Httie tin basins and two storeys of Httle box-like berths where they lay snugly packed away at night ; the kind matron, who had crossed the ocean some forty times on like business, slee})ing in a little cabin opening into this special section. The chaplain accomi)anying the ship often had special services for the children, and it was very pleasant to hear the bright hymn-singing, which always brought together a number of the other passengers. As we think of those little ones we wonder how thev are getting on in their scattered homes. We had hoped to see them again in Miss Rye's Home, near Niagara, l)ut, to our regret, we never managed the expedition. The matron told us that very probably a fortnight after we landed the children would all be engaged, or adopted in homes where they knew they would be cared for. I think I have behaved very badly to you in not having photographed either these children for you, or a typical emigrant Norwegian family, who would have made a delightful grouj) if I could have made them understand what I wanted. 'Jliere they were, father, mother, and a whole succession of little flaxen- Outward Bound. =*> haired boys and girls, the latter each with a little yellow l)ig-tail, after the fashion of some of the foreign dolls we buy. There are always a number of Scandinavians in every ship-load of emigrants going to Canada, for they are most thrifty, hard-working people, and when they get settled, generally soon send money home to bring out their relations. I shall have more to tell you about them by-and-by. Meantime, I must tell you about what is always the great excitement of a voyage to Canada. \\'e were seven days out from Liverpool, and were preparing, in various ways, for a concert, which was to be given on behalf of the Liverpool Home for the Orphan Children of Seamen who have perished at sea, when a rumour went round that an iceberg was in sight. An eager crowd was soon scanning the horizon with telescopes and field-glasses, and before long a tiny, cone-shaped, glistening white hill hove in sight, resjjlendent with shades of transparent green and blue. We looked at it, and we photographed it, and we sketched it, and we talked about it, till another, and yet another, came in view, and during that evening and next day some thirteen were seen in all the various lights of sunset and sunrise, and mid-day They were very beautiful, but their beauty needs to be seefi to be understood. I am almost ashamed to let you see the reproduction of a little sketch I attempted when the first iceberg was visible on the horizon. These icebergs, which are 111 1 8 Through Canada with a Kodak. morsels detached from the great glaciers of Greenland by the summer sun, cause great anxiety to the officers commanding ships on the Atlantic. 'I'his is more especially the case in the neighbourhood of Newfound- land, which is very subject to fogs; for, as the saying goes, it is celebrated for "fog, dog, and cod." Often and often ships have to lie outside the Straits of Belle- Isle for days enwrapped in dense fog, afraid to budge, Ihcjiyst Iceberg on the Horizon in case ont' of these great ice monsters may be looming near at hand, ready to overwhelm the unwary seaman and his craft. This very ship of ours, the " Parisian," had a narrow escape in May. In the fog she ran atilt against what was called a small iceberg, but which one of the passengers decribed to me as having a most alarming appearance. In a moment there appeared as a vision just in front of the bows, a towering white mass, part of which seemed to overshadow the deck. % Outward IJound. i This passenger told mu that the feeling of alarm was swallowed up in an o\crpowering sense of wonder and awe at the marvellousness and magnificence of the scene presented, and that it was only later, when the skill of captain and officers had averted a catastro})he, that the perilous ])osition in which the ship had been placed was fully realised. The bright sun and t;lear skies which we enjoyed gave us immunity from all such dangers. We sailed peacefully through the Straits, on either side of us the line of the low blue hills of Labrador and Newfoundland gleaming in the sun, and in the reflected light of long, trailing, flaky, |)inky-white clouds, which we soon began to associate with Canadian skies. Then we floated out of sight of land again, into the great Gulf of St Law- rence, on into the big river itself, along the picturesque shores of French Canada, dotted with groups of cosy, wee, tin-roofed cottages, in which lived the French-Canadian fishermen, and every now and again a picturesque little church and school. It was all very peaceful, and a great contrast to the beginning of our voyage. But I must not linger longer over our voyage, and so I leave you, till next letter, within sight of the beautiful city of Quebec. ! 'I I f^ /r ,f k . ^ i 1 ■jlii' II. ( ) u !•: 15 !•: c. s I if % 4 NO words could ever des(:ril)e (^)uel)ee ; so you must try to form nn idea of it from tlie pictures we have given you. We saw it in every variety of weather: — first, in the uncertain reddish hght of a dull sunrise on the morning of our arrival ; and next in a howling storm ; then, when its bright s[)ires glittered in the glorious Canadian noon-day, or with the grey of its old gables transfigured in the sunset. We saw its bright roofs and spires bathed in the sunlight of noon ; again in all the glories of a gold and purple sunset ; and at night we saw the whole city gleaming with the myriads of electric lights shining about her crags. Queijec exercises a curious t'ascination on the visitor ; it trans- ])orts him into the past whether he wills it or no; the sentiment of the place dominates him, and it is the only town that I have seen which I can conceive im})osing on her children the same strange potent spell which binds us Scotch folk to our own never-to-be-surpassed "■ Auld Reekie." It is strange that the emigrant to the New A\'orld I ,i' d' 12 Ihrough Canada witli a Kodak. should make ac(iuaintana' with it first in tliis old-world city, full of associations and traces of the j)ast — its very inhabitants seeming to transport you to a I'Vance of two or three centuries ago. Nevertheless the emigrant will find that the demands ofthj present and future have not been forgotten, that his needs have not l)een overlooked, and that the (lovernment and the Railway Companies have amply provided for his reception. And besides the (iovernment and the Railways, there is the Women's Protective Immigration Society, which takes special charge of all women emigrants disembarking at Quebec, whether travelling alone, or with one of those j)rotected parties — by far the best auspices to travel under — which have si)ecial arrangements on board ship, and a matron to themselves. 1 hope to say something later on in these j)apers to young women thinking of emigrating; but meanwhile I would like to take this opportunity of saying that there is a constant demand for women-servants in all parts of Canada, the wages being from $8 to $12 (^i, I2S. to ;^2, 8s.) a month in Eastern Canada, and increasing as you go Westward to as much as $20 {£4) per month. Good general servants, who are not afraid to work, and who will adapt themselves to the ways of the country, are sure to get on in Canada and to find hapi)y homes. Girls who only wish to take to one branch of domestic work had better not go, except in limited numbers, as it is the exception, not the rule, to keep "^ M (.)ucl)cc. IS I 1 more than one servant, and those will succeed l)est who will put their hands heartily and readily to anything. Servants who have had some training in geiieral work will l)e particularly valued. If any girls reading these words make up their minds to emigrate, they cannot di> better than go out with one of the prcHected parties arranged hy the Hon. Mrs Joyce, of the United British Women's l'jnigratif)n Society. 'I'he passage with one of these parties costs ^£4, los., and all who go may he sure of .securing a situation immediately on arrival. Ikit to return to our own doings at (Quebec. 'I'he scene on our arrival at the wharf was a busy one. Most of the emigrants diseml)arked here, and we saw our little friends destined for Miss Rye's Homes marched off two and two very hai)i)ily to the train which was to convey them furtiier West. There were a great many "(lood- byes " to be said to our good ca|)tain and officers, and to the friends we had made on our passage out, and who were all now dispersing far and near. Soon we were crossing the river in a ferry-boat, and next found ourselves dashing up the (queerest, ([uaintest, roughest, steepest streets you can imagine. These led up to the Citadel, which crowns the heights, and where the (iovernor-Cleneral lives when he is staying at Quebec. The present (iovernor-deneral, Lord Stanley of Preston, and his wife, Lady Stanley, were not at (Quebec when we arrived ; but they sent us the kindest of welcomes, along 14 Through Canada with a Kodak. Ill ii' with a hospitable invitation to stay at the Citadel. And never did any guests feel more grateful than we, when we f( and ourselves in a cosy room overlooking the town and the busy river. We watched our old friend the " Parisian " making ready for her further journey to Montreal, and we " Kodaked " her, and, as she steamed away, waved our final greetings with a towel out of the window. Then we had time to take in our position, and to survey the whole surrounding country from a delightful terrace which had been built out beyond the spacious ball-room erected whilst Lord Lome and Princess IvOuise were in Canada. In the distance lay long lines of low blue hills ; the broad, stately river winding below, laden with ^•essels of every description bound to and from many European ports, while darting in and out amongst them flashed the white sails of pleasure boats. The city, with the imposing tower of its Uni\-ersity, its many spires, its bright roofs made of j)lates of tin, [)resents a strange contrast to the heights clad with verdure and forest which met the eye of the adventurous French explorer, Jacciues Cartier, who arrived here in the autumn of 1535, with his three shi])s, the "(irande Hermine " (120 tons), the "Petite Hermine'"' (60 tons), and the " Emerillon ' (40 tons), and stayed one whole winter. \\'e could not but often dream that we could see those three brave little ships, wiUi their gallant captain, floating in these s I (• I (> i6 Through Canada with a Kodak. .f\ |5 I ,1. unexplored waters, and exciting the wonder of the Indian Prince Donnacona and his savages, crowding around the new arrivals in their Httle bark canoes. You must get out your history-books if you want to go back to that time, and, if you want to trace out how Quebec was founded a half-century later by Champlain, how it became half a mission, half a trading station, how it was defended against the many attacks of the Indians and became the centre of the Colony of New France ; and then how it was neglected and misgoverned by corrupt officials from France, and finally how it was conquered by the splendid daring of General Wolfe in 1759. We had the great advantage of seeing the scenes of all these historic deeds under the able guidance of M. Lemoine, the historian of Quebec, to whose kind care we had been confided by our friend Sir Alexander Campbell, Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario, whom we were fortunate enough to have as one of our fellow-passengers in the "Parisian." M. Lemoine showed us the steep precipitous cliff up which Wolfe and his men clambered that memoraljle night, and the spot where he overthrew the few men carelessly guarding the heights : where his men formed up in line, and advanced over the plains of Abraham : where Montcalm, the gallant French defender, rode out and saw the English red-coats, and heard the Highland bagpipes, and exclaimed, "This is a serious business ! " Then we saw the spot where Wolfe fell Quebec. 17 pierced by three bullets — where he fell, only to hear the cry, a moment later, " They run ! see how they run ! " " Who run ? " demanded Wolfe. " The enemy, sir. They give way everywhere." " Go," said the dying man, "go, one of you to Colonel Burton, and tell him to march Webb's regiment down to Charles River, to cut off their retreat from the bridge." And then, turning on his side he murmured, "Now Cod be praised. I will die in peace," and expired. Almost at the same moment his noble-hearted enemy received his deatii-wound, though riding into the city he tried to reassure his friends, saying " It is nothing ; it is nothing ! " We saw also the monument in the (Governor's garden, which commemorates both the conquered and the conquering General. But I have not space to tell more of all we saw at Quebec, nor of the delightful day we spent at the falls of Montmorenci — higher than those of Niagara — and known to the people of the neighbourhood as " La Vache " (the cow), because the foam has the appearance of frothing milk. In the winter this spray freezes till a cone is formed some seventy feet high. Then sledges with metal runners called '■^ toboggans ^^ are prepared, and from the height of this cone the young people of Quebec amuse themselves by shooting down one after another, and sliding away far across the smooth surface of the river below. Oh, the fun these Canadians have in winter, B I ■' 1 'I • 'A •H, I ■) t:! l-i!' \ 11 A', I Ml i • I I OifV^ » i f ■f '!;l J lie l-'alls oj Montiiioniic. Quebec. ^9 with their sledging, their skating, their tobogganing, and their snow-shoe ex[)editions. 'J'he snow-slioe is a ntxx's- sary equipment for those who have to take long journeys in the winter. It looks rather like a lawn-tennis racket, and consists of a light frame with netting across, whii;h prevents the wearer from sinking into the snow. But some practice is re(}uired in order to use this novel foot-gear easily. One word about the l^'rench Canatlians. Tluy iue a thrifty, contented, law-abiding, religious peo])le. When the British conquered (Quebec they wisely allowed the people to retain their own laws and customs, and the result is that nowhere can be found more loyal subjects of the British Crown, 'i'he atmosphere of modern France has never reached them, and they are still the same simple Norman and Briton peasants who came out some hundreds of years ago. They are very much influen( ed by their priests, who maintain a strid rule over them and all their family affairs. The regulations are very strict — for instance, about dancing, the popular snow-shoe expeditions, and other amusements. Some restrictions are, however, i)eing relaxed. I'or examj)le, fifty years ago meat was absolutely forbidden all through the forty days of Lent, and this was found to l)c a great hardship in many cases in that severe climate. 'I'he rule has not been so rigidly enforced of late years. The French in Canada are increasing rapidly by reason ' 1 ; J '■' ri I i ' '..it] ^ i :il !1 20 Through Canada with a Kodak, Ml •'•i' :» 1! -t .1' > of the large famiHes they generally have. Twelve, fourteen, and sixteen children are quite an ordinary-sized family, while we heard of a well-authenticated case of one couple rearing forty-four children. The country is therefore filling up, and some of the people are moving into the New England States, and westward to Manitoba. 'i'he general desire is, however, to stick to their own country, and the Quebec Government facilitates this by giving 100 acres free to every family which numbers twelve children. As we drove along the well-kept road to and from Montmorenci, we i:)assed various character- istic little villages ; the houses bear evidence of being built for contingencies of either extremes of climate : verandahs and green sun-shutters, and netting over doors and windows, as protection against the blazing heat and the mosquitoes and flies, but also peculiarly-shaped roofs, curved at the bottom in such a way as to prevent the snow from making a permanent lodgment. I'he crops we saw were very poor indeed, but we were told that it had been a very bad year for agriculturists round ubouL Quebec. We were especially struck by the universal civility and gentle courtesy of the people — no pushing either of themselves or of their sights, only a quiet readiness to help strangers, and to give them any information which they might be in need of, without looking for reward. When we were in Quebec we imagined this was the hereditary French politeness Quebec. 21 showing itself, but our experience afterwards sliowed us that civility and a spirit of kindlint,'ss towards visitors is more or less a characteristic of all Canadians. There is much more that I would like to tell you about Quebec and its neighbourhood, but my space is more than filled, and I cannot even describe to you the little carts, dragged by dogs trained to harness, like those ^i'^'^ A (Jin'/'tr Calcche. used in this country in bygone days, until they were for- bidden l)y law ; nor yet can I dilate on the curious old- fashioned vehicle, peculiar to Quebec, called a calcche. You see a picture of one here. Try to imagine a very high gig, with a hood, swung on enormously high C-shaped springs ; next imagine a weedy-looking horse tearing along, after the fashion of Quebec horses, at full gallop J •1 '4 ,\ 11 i r, ' III .\ i ; ' . '■It 22 'I'hrough Canada with a Kodak. M 'I I' ,11. ■• 1 ■r.,r •hi ■t\\ up and down streets steeper than the Edinburgh Higii wStreet, and full of holes and pitfalls, and then you will be able to judge of the courage of those who trust their persons in such a conveyance. Nevertheless, I will con- fide to you that we found this method of progression most comfortable, and we congratulate Quebecers on having discovered a way of making the roughness of their streets unperceivable to the traveller. And now adieu to Quebec. We shall meet again in Montreal. I^f! ^1 I' ' ;n 1..I III. MONT R E A L. G LAD to see you at Montreal ! " "Well, and what do you think of Canada ? " " Lord Aberdeen, I think? You're heartily welcome, sir!" "Grand hotel this ! Nothing to beat it on the Continent ! " Such-like were the greetings which fell on our ears as we entered into the vast central hall of the Windsor Hotel, Montreal, after a hot and dusty railway journey from Quebec. This hall and the spacious dining-saloon and public drawing-rooms of the hotel are practically a club for the inhabitants of Montreal and its visitors. Here we find many of our fellow-passengers from the " Parisian " again — here, too, was our captain ; this celebrity and that were pointed out to us by the head waiter, as they sat at the innumerable small tables at meals, and before many hours had passed we felt ourselves quite habitues of Canada's commercial capital, and accustomed to her ways. Quite conscientiously, too, could we pass muster with the most exacting Canadian in paying due tribute to the comforts, the conveniences, and the splendour of the Windsor Hotel. Ill l1 I , 1., . ; .Ml Sill 1. x\ ! ' 24 Through Canada with a Kodak. in •••i' f I If »< 1 1 'I ' As at Quebec, our thoughts irresistibly turned to the contrast between tliis jjroud and splendid city, with her beautiful buildings, and churches, and luiiversities, to the nestling Indian village found 1)\' |ac([ues C'artier at '^^^^&s^0^:::w^m i Jac(]tics Cartic): the foot of the mountain which he first called Mont Royal (the royal mountain), in honour of his king. We fancied we could see the groups of "braves," with their scjuaws and children, crowding out of their little huts to k 4 I 'I •^ ift, 1 M 36 Through ("anada with a Kodak. ill Ml; ■ it '• if '■ ill !• il look at these strange beings ; the women stroking the moustaches and beards of the explorers, to maki; sure of tlieir reality ; tlie infirm, and sick, and feeble, with their paralysed chief at their head, imploring for the 'Miealing touch " which they believed these denizens of another world could give. The words which were spoken by NFaisonneuve, the leader of the little band of forty-five emigrants who landed on the island of Montreal in 1642, with the intention of founding a colony and a mission, have indeed come true. No sooner had the little party landed than they gathered together for prayer and in consecra- tion of their mission in this new land, and at the close of their worship Maisonneuve turned to his companions and said, " You are a grain of mustard seed that shall rise and grow till its branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but your work is the work of fiod. His smile is on you, and your children shall fill the iand." Many were the vicissitudes which that litt'e colony had to pass through, many were the heroes and heroines whom they were destined to nurture amidst the rough experiences of a life spent in constant dread and danger of the Indian's tomahawk and scalping-knife. But Maisonneuve's words proved prophetic, and in place of the small barricaded fort of Villa Marie of Montreal, defended by a few missionaries and devoted women, there rears itself the largest, most prosperous city in Montreal. - / Canada, slicltcrcd by Iut Royal Mountain, on which she lavishes her proud care. A lovely winding drive has been laitl out round the sides of the mountain, by wliich the visitor gradually ascends to a standpoint, from which a glorious \iew of the river and scenery below must be obtained. Unfortunately the weather was very unfavourable when we made the ascent, and we could only form a dim con- ce})tion of the splendid })anorama spread out before us, with the rushing white waters of the Lachine Rai)ids in the distance. Hut you can get an idea of the view from the picture we have given you. On the sides of the mountain itself large and most carefully-tended cemeteries have been laid out separately for Protestants and Roman Catholics, and are considered one of th'; sights of the place. We drove through them, admiring many strange bright plants and trees, and then we wended our way to return a visit made to us in the morning by an old friend of the family, Mr Crombie, who had been for many years a London City Missionary, but who has now in his old age gone out with his wife to make his home with his son, a minister in charge of a Presbyterian Church in Montreal. We found them enthusiastic in praise of their new country, and the beneficial effects that its climate had had on their health. But I must cry. Halt ! For I see that I am dangerously li': J I II. .1 I I I ' ill f t ■w I , Through Canada with a Kodak. Mi- ''1 ■'■ii 1 1* [ '!► near writing a journal of all our doings, and this will never do. So, only one or two more remarks about Montreal, where, indeed, we only stayed two nights, as we were hurr)ing on to our children, who had preceded us across the ocean. But we had time to inspect a pleasant little Home for Female Emigrants in Mansfield Street, which is under the charge of a lady who takes the liAcliest interest in those who pass through her hands. They are met at the steamers, and for the first twenty- four hours can remain at the Home free of all charge. Very often, even on the first day, they find places to which they can go at once, but if they require to stay a little longer the)' pay a small sum per day. But all may be sure of a welcome here, and of help and wise advice. And then I must tell you of the evening we spent at the beautiful house of Sir Donald Smith, whose name is a household word in Canada, as well it may be, for he has acted the jjart of a fairy godfather to his adopted countr}-. I think we must some day try if Sir Donald cannot be persuaded to tell the O.U.A. some of his stories of the by-gone days of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, of which he is President, and in whose service he has taken many an adventurous journey. He could tell us not only of the hardships of cold, but of the hard- ships or heat, which beset the hunter. That very evening we were with him he told us of the terrors of the Labrador mosquitoes, and how they have vanquisht men n n Sir Donald Smith. I" J! I '' i » , 1' I"'-. I. X ' 1^ .J li ^ 1 1ii •i 30 Through Canada with a Kodak. Mi: '111 ■'•,f "I ill •' i!' ,yl would fly from no other enemy. He instanced one case in which a friend of his was so sensitive to their bites, that he had to stop every half-hour on the march to wash away the blood which was pouring from his head and face. \Vc had all manner of stories that night, for amongst Sir Donald's guests were — Mr Shaughnessy, the Vice- President of the Canadian Pacific Railway; the Rev- Mr Barclay, whom many of you may have heard of, as he was colleague with I)r Macgregor, at St Cuthbert's, I^Minburgh, for some years before going to the Montreal congregation, by whom he is held in such high esteem ; and last, but not least, Father Lacombe, a priest mission- ary amongst the Indians, who has given all his life to their cause. I have had a photograph of him engraved so that you may have a glimpse of the kindly, noble old face. He lives far away in the North-West, and is not often seen in civilised haunts, but his name is everywhere loved and respected among Protestants and Roman Catholics alike. His life of love and whole-hearted devotioin to his mission has gained for him enormous influence amongst ^^mes saiwages," as he playfully calls the Indians. For instance, when the Canadian Pacific Railway Company first began to lay out their railway through the red man's territory, there were rumours, and more than rumours, that the wild "Bloods" and "Plackfeet" meditated wrecking the pathway of the IV. I ■) I i "^ Father I.acoiid\ 32 Through Canada with a Kodak. iff M r* ■f\ ... ,f. ■Ill '\ if a H ^1 lit iron fiend which threatened their solitudes. Father Lacombe's aid was invoked as mediator, and the "Bloods" and the "Blackfeet" buried the hatchet. His talk with us will always be a happy remembrance ; his fatherly solicitude over his flock, and the way in which he identifies himself with them is most touch- ing. "You must never drive the Indians, or frighten them ; you must draw them by ever telling them of the love of the Father." Only once, he told us, was he in momentary danger from any Indian. An Indian lad had been falling into bad ways, and Father Lacombe told him that if he persisted in these ways he would surely reap the fruits of his sin. A few days later the boy was ill, and Father Lacombe went to see him, and, laying his hand on his knee, asked him how he was. The boy jumped up in a fury, and seizing a knife, made a lunge at the missionary, which, fortunately, the latter eluded by a rapid movement. The boy had remembered the words spoken to him a few days before, and thought that Father Lacombe had the power to bring punishment and death upon him by merely touching him. Amongst other work done for the Indian by this good man has been the making of grammars and translations of parts of the Bible, and other books for their use. He says that when he is quite worn out with active work, he will come and build a Hermitage near Haddo House, and write books for and about his Indians. nr ^l Montreal. 33 Some day I must tell you of other missions amongst the Indians, of the Church of England's Mission, and of our Presbyterian Church Mission, which are doing splendid work, and for which I would like to ask your support. To-day I have simply told you our impressions of one who is surely following Christ, if ever man did, and taking His message of love and mercy to dark souls, and to whom, therefore, all Christians can with heart and soul say, "God speed." Meanwhile I must tell you how^ Mr Barclay joined with Pere Lacombe in telling us of the North- West. He had gone with the Canadian troops as chaplain, on the expedition to quell the last insurrec- tion amongst the half-breeds, and we were told on all hands how magnificent his tall manly figure looked in uniform, and how his conduct with the troops won for him universal respect. I wish you could have heard him describing the services he had in far out-of-the-way places on the Sabbaths. The military band led the psalms and hymns, and the host of men's voices rose up in the open air, in regions where divine worship had never before awakened echoes, and amongst the worship- pers were found lonely settlers who had for years been far from any church, and who hailed this opportunity of joining in public prayer and praise once more, and to whose eyes the sound of the well-known tunes brought tears of joy. One more glimpse must I give you of the interior of c 1 ' 1 4 ' \> %[■ 11 f li ' t, i; Ti " * 1 '(I M ii!n! 34 Through (Canada with a Kodak. Ml: ,1 ' ii !lii R ill a Hi Sir Donald's hospitable mansion — not of his library, lined with the beautiful red wood of California and British C:olumbia ; not of his uni(iue Japanese room, where you might spend hours in examining curiosities which can l)e seen nowhere else out of Jai)an ; not of his beautiful])- decorated drawing-rooms ; but of one picture in liis picture galler)-. It is full of other treasures, but this is the one you would most like to see. It is Dainted by a French artist, and the scene is in France. A number of peasant girls, their heads veiled, after foreign custom, are passing u\) the lane to the little church in the distance, their friends standing about in groups invoking blessings on the young liv-es about to dedicate themselves to (iod's service. In the foreground of the picture we have a touching scene of one family kissing and blessing their own child, about to join her companions. (Grandparents and parents lift up their hands and eyes to Heaven on behalf of their darling, whose face bears a look of such humility, and love, and steadfastness, that one turns away from the picture with the sense that one has been standing on hallowed ground. But the boat which is to take us westward is waiting for us at Lachine, and if we are to arrive at Hamilton next month we must hurry westwards. So, good-l)ye. Sir Donald, and good-bye to your guests : but ai/ revoir! ,v-tr 4 I ^^ *. ■i' ' t .1 m 1,1 i.: ■'■,1 ,1 •ill :< ,| IV. A CANADIAN LAKE VOYAGE. THAT was a mistake when 1 said the boat was waiting for us at Lachine I I must have been thinking of the Lachine Rapids, which are one of the sights which all right-minded visitors to Montreal go and see, and down which they generally descend in a steamer. We had fully intended to include them in our programme, but want of time and heavy rain prevented our going, and so I cannot give you the description of an eye- witness. There are a number of these rapids on the St. Lawrence, those of Lachine being the best known. They presented formidable obstacles to the early ex- plorers, until the Indians guided them over the dangers in their bark canoes. It is said that the safest course for the steamboats to take was discovered by first shooting the rapids on rafts, on the bottom of which W'Cre nailed many spikes of wood, and the deepest course was then known by examining which spikes had been broken off by contact with the rocks, and which remained intact. A somewhat risky experience ? But think of the A Canadian Lake \'oyage. 37 anxiety which the first captain must have suffered who tooiv a steamer full of passengers down this succession of waterfalls, with rocks which can he touched on either side with a boat-hook. It is not thought much of a feat now, however, when it is done every day in the utmost safety. We determined to make the most of our last day at Montreal, and so, instead of joining the boat either at Montreal itself or at Lachine, we left late in the afternoon by train to (J(;ieau, about 30 miles west of the city. There we had ordered a " machine " to meet us to drive us for the mile and a naif between the station and the river. But our " machine " did not turn up, and we fell to the mercy of a youthful Jehu, with an extremely shaky and antediluvian tra]), who took a mischievous pleasure in landing us ever and anon in dee[) black ruts with which the road abounded, looking back with a twinkle to enjoy the anxious glances of his passengers at the angle in which the frail wheels found themselves during these plunges. J]ut the rough transit did not blind our eyes to the peaceful I'rench Canadian scenes through which we were passing, nor to the gorgeousness of the golden sunset which was glorifying the whole landscaj)e. Soon we were established in our new abode, the " Cor- sican," with its clean caljins and attentive stewards, and its genial, sailor-like captain, who had been navigating the river for twenty-eight years, but who came originally i I ) I I ii;;: III ' H ?ii ,s i*«. i ::3 *M i\ ' ^1 38 'i'lirougli ("anada witli a Kodak. f.ii; • It I I * .1 it '■! ■1 li from Maidenhead. He was good enougli to invite us to his own u})])er deck, near the steersman's cabin, and once having clambered up the ])recipitous ladder which led thither, we enjoyed a magnificent view. That first even- ing was lovely ; the glow of the sunset melting into full moonlight in an incredibly short space of time, and we sat and sketched, and congratulated ourselves on having taken the boat instead of the hot stuffy train. Next day was too hazy and grey for a proper view of the far famed "Thousand Islands," through which the "Corsican'' threaded her passage. No name could better describe the scene than the " Thousand Islands."' The broad river, which, at places, is seven miles across, is literally studded with islands of all shapes and sizes, some scarcely more than a rock on which a bush has taken root, others large enough to maintain a small colony. Nearly every island has its villa and its flag, and its little pier with brightly coloured i)leasure-boats lying around. .Steam launches ply busily from one point to another, whistling importantly th- ir :.pj)roach, while fishermen are seen pursuing their craft devotedly in every little l)ay. The air resounds with the laughter of picnic parties : for this is one of the great holiday haunts of the Americans, and at night the villas and the hotels vie one with another as to who can best illuminate their respective islands. It is therefore a gay and attractive scene that the river here presents, but we agreed that it has not the same imposing 1 A Canadiiiii l.aku Voyage. 39 beauty tliat wc saw further east. Hut now, in the afternoon, we are ajjproaehinjj; Kingston, full of historical associa- tions, fro'-*i the old days of I'Vontenac onwards, and which commands the river in a most picturescjue way. Our captain told us we could have just two hours ashore, and so we hurried off, desirous first of all to assure ourselves of the well-being of a daughter of one of Lord Aberdeen's tenants who had emigrated hither two or three years back. We found her happy and bright, and ((uite a Canadian, giving her verdict in favour of the "' new r'^*?*?? /\i)ii^sroii, Ontario country " most emphatically. She had been with the same mistress ever since she came out, and appeared to be a great favourite with the latter. Having received this further testimony in favour of the emigration to Canada of the right sort of hard-workini; girls, we proceeded round the sights of the town, under the guidance of a genuine Irish cabman, who did the honours, impartially of the Barracks, of the Military College, of the Martello Towers, and of the Penitentiary and the Lunatic Asylum Ik % s II i 4«( -I .■. .* ^ ■^ ri, ■m. 40 Through (lanadu witli a Kodak. i.it: ■'t. ii and the (juccn's College - this latter being a iVeshyteriaii I'niversit)-, |)resided over hy the well-known and elocjiient l*rin(i|)al (Irant. Then, after a conity little tea at the hotel, we S( iirried hack in good time before the bell of de[)artiire sounded, and we sailed out int(j I-ake Ontario in the rays of the setting sun in the ha|)|)y delusion that we were to glide over waters as smooth as the river wiiich we had just left, till we found ourselves at 'I'oronto, which we were to reach next mori.'.ng. Alas for our ho|)es I We descended to sui)[)er, but scarcely were we seated, than swish-swash came a wave through the port hole, sweei)ing over glasses and plates in its {)assage. \\ c do not know much of what happened in the suj)i)er saloon after that. We were each alone in our narrow berth bewailing our folly for having trusted the treacherous waters instead of having resorted, bag and baggagi', to the train at Kingston. I'jUt, at three in the morning, hark, what is that whistle? What is that welcome clanking of a chain ? Are we stopping? \'es, indeed. And is there any chance of esca])e ? The thought occurred simultaneously to two passengers, who appeared witli wan faces and dishevelled hair at the door of their cabins at the same time, and confronted one another with the same (juestion. The thought was (juicklx- put into action, after Lord Aberdeen had obtained the kindl)' co-operation of the captain, who even refrained from scoffing at such deserters, and admitted that it had I I A (laiKuliaii Lake N'oyage, 41 conic up a pretty stiff and unexpected p;ale. And a few minutes later we were left rejoiein^^ on a deserted pier with naught hut a tea-kettle, a |)laid, and an uinhrella in our hands. I hit a Robinson Crusoe inhabited that pier • — as fate would have it, he was Ouso by name and he was like his namesake in hos|)itality also, and in his ability for making the best of whatever strangers came his way. He asked not our name or our business, but made us free of the otTwc which he occupied as agent for the steam-boats. He asked us if we wanted any- thing, he iirovided us with money, he volunteered to stir up a cab in the town to fei' h us to the station a couple of hours later, and he showed us his method of getting water out of the lake by means of a soda-water bottle with a long string round the neck. What say you to this as a specimen of Canadian hospitality and courtesy? 'J'he recipients of it were, any way, genuinely grateful, and very joyfully did we balance ourselves on the edge of the pier in the dark, and, in the midst of the gale, fish for water, and then make our tea in the shelte'- of the office, listening to the storm outside. \'ou will think us very cowardly sailors, I fear ; but it is no joke, i assure you ; and if you love not a storm at sea, remember our advice and keep to the train when you come out to Canada. j\lr Cruso was as good as his word, aiul in due course a cabman, who had been unwillingly aroused out of his early morning slumbers, appeared, and about M lit I ! I I 'I ' A- 1 'lb. I*. ^^ I J. i ! 1 I 42 'I'hrouL^h Canada with a Kodak. 'If Ml: Ml; t ■n •'■ii .1 1 ■• ,1, 5 ..M. we boarded a train Ijound \Vest, in which with difficulty we found a corner among the half-awake pas- sengers who had been travelling all night. From the window we caught a glimpse of our poor ship ploughing her way through the waves, and we congratulated our- selves afresh on our escape. We got long before her to Toronto, but not even here at the "Queen City" did we halt. We were to make accjuaintance with her a few days later under more auspicious circumstances, and so we only stopped long enough to change from one train to another, which, skirting along a lake, brought us, after an hour's journey, within sight of a most attractive first view of our new Canadian home. You shall not set this view yet. I will but put you down on the ])latform at Hamilton, and we will go on to " Highfield," and i)repare breakfast and a warm welcome for you there. t !l HAMILTON. I AM sure that any of you who have travelled will agree that one of its chief pleasures is coming home again. And we felt almost like getting home when we walked into the cool, comfortable dining-room, where breakfast had been prepared for us by those of our household who had preceded us to '' Highfield," the house which was to be our home whilst in Canada. Here is a picture of Highfield. I will hut give you one of Hamilton, for it is a place which photograjjhs do not do full justice to. The town lies on a gently-rising slope round the head of a beautiful bay, and nestles under a steep ridge, which stretches miles and miles away to the heights of Niagara. Here it shelteringly protects the town, which fondly acknowledges its sway, and which demands from all strangers and new-comers a due tribute of loyal admiration for the ''Mountain.'" As an illustra- tion of this admiration, the day after we arrived, a boy, of about thirteen, came up to Lord Aberdeen as he was walking in the grounds, and said, " Is Lord Haddo at I t t VI . '•it X 44 Through Canada with a Kodak. Ml.' Il !l 1 '* '!' 1 ,1 home? K 1 \'ell, no, he is not, hut I am his father. What do you want with liim ?" "Well, I wanted to interview him, and ask what his lordship thought of our city, and I wanted to put the interview in my father's news})aper.'' Lord Aberdeen was rather startled, in spite of having become somewhat familiarised to the custom of " inter- viewing " which prevails universally on the other side of the water, by means of which public men make known their views. He had scarcely, however, expected his eleven- year old son to be called upon to give his opinions as yet, and he tried to explain to the youthful journalist that in the old country boys were not expected to air their views so soon. But our young friend was not easily Jjaffled. He still persisted in asking '"if Lord Haddo had made arrangements to inspect the public buildings of the city, and especially if he had visited 'the Mountain^' and what he thought of that.''' Lord .Vljerdeen informed him that his boy was at that moment enjoying a clamber up the steep, and did his best to satisfy his enterprising enquirer by expressing his own appreciation of the heights under whose shade they were standing. Well, climb up this Mountain (almost on the side of whi(-h stands Highfield), in the cool of an early Sei)tember evening, and see tlie town spreading itself out east and west below you— wide and well-kept streets, trim lawns I 5 »■ li II III I 1 I t J, :-*: \ '• ■\u t V( 46 Through Canada with a Kodak. Iff It ' I ■'• ii •' .1 U as green as those in England, liouses nestling amongst trees, handsome buildings, church spires and factory chimneys comj)cting for j)re-eminence. And beyond the city, and its manufactories, and its wharves, lies the bay, all gleaming with the bright colours of the setting sun, amid which little yachts and pleasure boats are making their way home. Our thoughts linger fondly over the restful days spent in this peaceful retreat, and 1 fancy that both we and our children associate Highfield to a great extent with sunshine and butterflies. Perhaps we had a little more of the former than we cared for just at first for days with the thermometer over 90 deg. in the shade do not as a rule commend themselves to Scottish-bred folk. But after all we had not much to grumble at, for the heat was not accompanied by our much-dreaded foes, the blood-thirsty mosquitoes. True, this race of pests, who are supposed to avoid Hamilton as a rule, had sent out this year an advance-guard to survey the place, and even we, though late in the season, heard ominous trumpetings as we laid our heads on our }3illows, but it seems that as yet they were but vegetarian specimens of the race who had arrived, for none of our party suffered at their hands. Nor did they suffer at ours. We did not capture a single specimen. And this is . great deal to say for such an insect-hunting family as we must confess ourselves to be. As we sat iri the pretty secluded little grounds which I L I 1 1 if, ■ ■• ' I ■$ i i"' Iff. $\t r. ,f I »( ^ fti 48 Through Canada with a Kodak. lit It II ■lit > i t surround Highfield that first day, we became conscious that we were by no means alone, and our children, who had joined us, were soon in full pursuit of the wonderful creatures, which looked like butterflies on the wing, but turned into grasshopi)ers when they alighted, of the ''Camberwell Beauties," and the "Admirals," and the many other l)rightly-coloured visitors of our garden. But we did not do much that first day — we had not the necessary implements, and we had to sally forth in search of the wherewithall to make butterfly nets, and killing- boxes, and specimen boxes, and I know not what. (And here, by way of a parenthesis, I must beg the readers of "Wke Willie Winkik," who look in here, to under- stand that we are a fa mil)' of scientific entomologists, that we employ the most humane methods in killing our victims, that we should look with horror on any one who should stick pins through them alive, and that we do not kill thost; we do not need for our cabinet. Pray forgive this parenthesis, good readers. I feared that we might be confounded with the cruel boy whom our magazine has held up to reprobation.) And here let me introduce the four young butterfly- hunters of High field. Of course if you ever hear that their mother — your staid editor — joined them in their wild pursuit of her majesty the glorious red-winged I swift-flying "Queen of S])ain," or if you hear of her anointing telegraph poles and trees with honey and Hamilton. 49 'I '■I! Lord Hnddo. Agedii, I \ ■) Lady Marjoric //. Gordon. Aged 9- i I ( • ■\\ ■' '"y ^1 ii % '^ .'■ 1; ' . * •■ "S I) fl' 5° Through Canada with a Kodak. ui; molasses, and flitting about with others of the staff of "Onward and Upwarj)" at dead of night, with lanterns, capturing unwary, but magnificent moths, who had im- bibed the sweet draughts too freely, you will surely not believe such tales ! Suffice it to say that a really beautiful collection of moths and butterflies resulted from our stay at Highfield, i:i ■■*■ i! '' I 1 it ' •! [I //l. ! 1 ■I- ''1 11. ■>ti . ■ i ■ii I! ' It ,1,. .,t ^K,' 54 'I'hrougli (Jaiiada with a Kodak. Ml' i'! •'tl ' .1 ; ;1 n "I « One of the carhcst of these refugees was Robert I-auil, aiul he selected the head of the lake, more because of the game to he found there, and the scenery, than because of the fertility of the soil. His first acre was ploughed with a hoe, sown with a bushel of wheat, and harrowed with a leafy bough. He was his own miller, too, for some years, until a iMench-C'anadian arrived and set up a mill some seven miles away. Then other farmers came, and in 1S13 (leorge Hamilton laid out his farm in village lots, and gave the future town its name. Lying ns it does so near the frontier, it did not escaj)e anxious times during the war of 181 2 and the following years, and in [832 it narrowly escaj)ed destruction at the hands of a terril)le visitation of the cholera, and the same year b\- a raging fire. These trials did but ])rove the mettle of the inhabitants of the young town, and |)erhaps furnish the reason w!iy its streets are now so broad, and so cared for, its buildings so solid, its sanitary arrangements so th(jroughly looked into, its ])rovisions against destruction by fire so complete. A popular writer described Hamil- ton in 1858 as "the ambitious and stirring little city," and the name stuck; only "-little" she is no longer, being the third city in the Dominion, having a popula- tion of over 50,000, and her critics have missed out the "stirring," so if you seek for news of Hamilton in the general newspai)ers, you must look for it under the heading "The Ambitious City." But she is not. and ■ii ( I Ni I i I il »l ft, •■ I "• il ' it ^l 'ii J 56 Through Canada with a Kodak. need not, be ashamed of this nickname, for she has shown herself amuitious to seme purpose. I could take up a large part of these Canadirn talks by describing to you the public buildings and their uses, the magni- ficent school buildings and the good work that goes on in them, the institutions — socir.l, literary, })hilanthropic, and' religious — the many manufactories, which cause this tov;n to be regarded as the Birmingham of Canada, the acres of vineyards around the fruit gardens and orchards, which ^ive this part of the country the name of " the (jarden of Canada," the churches of all de- nominations whose services we attended, and above all the people, of Hamilton. But, having regard to the length and purport of these sketches, I will not launch into so large a subject. Suffice it to say that the kindness and good fellowship extended to us by the inhabitants of Hamilton, of all dasses, did what only true hearty courtesy and kindness can do, viz., we felt ourselves to be no mere tourists and strangers, but fellow- citizei.s of "no mean city." And in proof of this asser- tion, I have, by my side here, in the office of " Onward AND Upward," two beautifully-bound books, concerning the birds and plants of Canada, and which were presented to me by the Free Library Committee, as being the fust citizen to apply for a book, on the occasion of Lord Aberdeen's opening of the new^ buildings. (I must con- fide to you, however, that your President's character had -^ Hamilton. 57 to be inquired into before I was admitted as a reader. I had to produce a certificate of character for honesty, and so forth, signed by two citizens of Hamilton. You will be glad to know that I found two Senators willing to vouch for me !) There is no doubt that if you want really to know something of a country, its customs, and its people, it is a grea<^ advantage if you can settle down in some typical place for a few weeks, instead of merely travelling through and seeing the sights of each town. In the latter w^ay you may see more perhaps of the buildings, institutions, &:c., for if you have but a day or two, ou map out your time, and spend it in driving from one place lo another, and you thus get through a great deal : but if you make yourself at home anywhere for a bit, you will not do the tourist so much, but if you mix at all with the people, you almost unconsciously get to understand them and their ways of thinking, and the why and v.herefore of their customs and institutions. This was our experience, living our every-day life, interchanging visits, reading the daily papers of all sections of politics, mingling with clergy, statesmen, merchants, agriculturists, ike, and hearing various opinions from all sorts and conditions of men. And the sum total of what we learnt made us feel that the more the old country learnt to know her grown- up child over the sea, the more she would be proud of her in all ways, and the more earnestly did it make us ! * ' tU i « ') "1 r::l V<' :il| ::i Xt >, S8 Through Canada with a Kodak. !l:' 'It' f 1 I . I' wish and pray that the future of Canada may be worthy ofh( id that th ( lod-feai industrious present simple, education-loving stock may only be reinforced by those worthy to combine vv-ith them in building up a grand nation and country. As I have said before, none need fear to go out to (Canada wno are ready to work. Our lads and lasses who went out with us with the intention of settling (and of whom I give you a group sitting outside " Highfield "), have nearly all found happy homes. One, indeed, has come back because of her father's death, but I feel much temj)ted to give you extracts from some of the letters of others. They have not suffered at all from the cold of the winter, but seem to have enjoyed the merry winter customs, and seeing all the skating and the sleighing going on round about them. For one thing, the hearti- ness of Canadians towards new-comers counts for a great deal : they do all they can to make everyone feel welcome and one with them there is a freeness, a sense of equality, a consciousness that everyone will be taken just for what he or she is worth, and nothing more or less, which cannot altogether be attained in the old world, and which must always be refreshing to anyone of inde- pendent spirit. '' Prove yourself to be a man, a woman, and we shall resjject you, and you shall have an etjual chance with any of us, and what is more, we will do (jur l)est to put you into the running with us from the lirst." >i^*\* l^^i K- in, lal ur I •i'i <> « ^ ir» Hu til 1 i "I I 1 I ^..,^'!l ■1' -», * ,1|i (I n il « il ^. I i ii 60 'III i> M' 4 i i' ill; i ill Through Canada with a Kodak. Human nature is undoubtedly the same everywher^^, and Canadians would not wish to claim for themselves immunity from ail faults, but they may fairly claim that anyone wishing to live a free, independent, self-respecting, law-abiding, and Cod-fearing life, has as few impediments under the government, the public life and customs, the bright climate, and the sanguine temperament of Canada and her folk as they will find in any land under the sun. Lord Aberdeen was accused of distributing, in some of his speeches in Canada, what was termed " taffy to the Dominion." (Is this word derived from "toffee," I wonder? Anyway it means something sweet.) Perhaps I shall be accused of following in his footsteps. Well, we can only speak of that we do know, and what we have seen, and I can honestly say that I am not conscious of having flattered. Next month I invite you to accompany us to some of Canada's autumn fairs, and to see some of her products. 1 ii II •i i i I I Ii 'I '■" 'I ■«'■ ''' I III X, 64 Through (.'aiiada with a Kodak. ■I I ' ,1 * u >- * provided for, but the ornamental, and the amusing also, were given their full place. Trotting races, the Wild \\'est wShow — a' })erformance after the manner of lUiffalo Bill, with cow-boys and wild Indians and buck-jumping hMrses, and side perfo .,an . of all kinds — were all to hand for the diversion c 'h •,. vho were not interested in the all-absorbing agricultu^.d wc'. and prospects of the country. And in spite of the vast concourse of people assembling daily (it is reckoned that 300,000 visitors attended the Fair each week), there was a remarkable absence of any disorderly conduct or unseemly language. All strangers are struck by the good behaviour of the crowd, and by the evidence it gives of the high moral tone prevailing in Canada, and which, amongst other results, shews itself in a popular agreement that no intoxicating drinks shall be sold on the grounds during the Fair. Lord Aberdeen had the honour done him to be nsked to open this vast Exhibition, and to give an address on the occasion, and it was then that we first visited Toronto, and that we were first brought into contact with a Canadian crowd. The opening ceremony is somewhat a trying one, for it takes place in the open air, the speakers occupying a platform given up afterwards to acrobats and jugglers, and having to address a vast crowd in an amphitheatre opposite, with the racing-course intervening. The ordeal, however, was safely got through, and the audience were very kind, and appeared satisfied. Toronto. 6s IS d. . tv But I must return to our Toronto Fair, and I feel I ought to take you round the Dog Show, and the J^oultry Show, and the Honey Sliow, all of which were excellent ; and then I ought to tell you of all the strange imple- ments for sowing, and reaping, and l)inding, and digging, and I do not know what besides ; and then we ought to see the roots and the vegetables, and the niagnif ■ o^/ show of fruit ; and t^en we ought to stand in th( '-in. and see the Herefords, and the Shorthorns, a'> 1 >'ir own Aberdeen-Angus cattle being led out, and reei .ng very much at home, and the Clydesdales, too, d the roadsters, and the wonderful jum[)ing-horse " Rosel)ery," who cleared the seven-feet jump easily. Besides there are the Manitoba exhibits, and those from the Xorlh-West and British Columbia. And there are the birds, and the insects, and the snakes to be seen. AVell, what do you say to going through all these shows, and my pointing out the merits of each exhibit ? If^ you were wise you would not absolutely trust yourself to my knowledge on all these subjects, even though I had the benefit of being shown all by our most kind friend. Captain Macmaster, Vice-President of the l^air. But e\en if you would, I am afraid you would not care for a whole number of the Magazine to be devoted to Canada, which would be the result of your rashness, and if you or any of your friends want to know more in detail aboui the agricultural resources of the country, I would advise you to write to 1!. II !i ' X 1 J - til 1 « ■ r<'' ^1^1 ' ' II \\ 't. " 1^? ,-\-:\ ;i:ii1 Ml " I if ()(i Tliroiigh Canada with a Kodak. llu' llii;h ("oniniissioiKT for Canada, 17 N'ictoria Street, London, S.W., and ask for some of the rei)()rts on ("anado made l)y the Jiritisli tenant-farmers, who went out in 1H91, on the invitation of the Canadian (lovern- I ! :i ( 'aptahi Maciiiastcr' nient and visited every i)nrt of the country, and who have made most valuable rejmrts on all they had seen, for the use of those wanting full and reliable information. i Toronto. ['i; Some of these tenant-farmers were jiresent at the Toronto I'air the same day as we were (on our second visit), and we saw them going about everywhere making notes. But I have told you notiiing yet of our host at (iovern « I'; !► •J ; I I, i'' '4 1 -I Ive for |)n. Coreiiiiiniit ffoitsc. Toronto. ment House, where we stayed for the nigiu. We had had tile good fortune to i)e fellow-passengers across the Atlantic with the Lieutenant-( Governor of Ontario, Sir Alexander ('ampbell,"^ and he had i)roved the best and * Sir Alexander Campbell died in May iSyi'. after tlie.'-e letters were puhlisheil. m H i| II '^. 68 Through Canada witli a Kodak. IS Ml' I \ " I I' i| 1 f '8 kintk'st of friends, l)Oth as regards bodily and mental wants, for as t(j the former, lie had made us free of his private j)rovision of tea and butter, and Devonsliire cream, and as to the latter, he told us much which enabled us to feel that we knew a good deal about S/r Ah-vamlcr Caii//>/H-i/, Intc Licutcnant-CiOi'cynoy of Ontario, Canada before we got there. He has lived a long life of public usefulness to his ado])ted country, and we count the friendship with which he honoured us as one of the solid gains which our trip to Canada brought us. And now, t Toronto. (UJ of le id he and his daii^^httr, Miss Marjoric ( 'amplK-ll, took care of us ill thi-ir pleasant (lovornnicnt House, and tlirough their kinihiess we made otiier friends ani()nL;st others, Mr Mowat, tlie lion, i'rime Minister of ( )ntario, and die Speaker of the l)oniinion .Senate, the lion. Mr .Mian; and we renewed ae([uaintan(;e with our friend, Mr I'.dward niake, one of the leaders of the ()|)position, and a well- known orat(jr and statesman. Then Sir .\Ie.\ander drove me all round the city next morning, and showed me the new and the old |)arts, the (^)ueen"s Park, and the differ- ent colleges and schools, and the beautiful Uniwrsit)- liuildings, which were in large parts destroyed hy tire last year. They still presented a gratid appearanci-, and I am hai)py to say they are to be worthily restori'd. Now for a i)ee[) at the London Fair, and then both you and I must have a rest. A bad cold unfortunately prevented me from accom[)an) ing Lord Aberdeen to London, as 1 much wanted to do, but he came home full (jf praise of the bright appearance of this Noung city of 35,000 inhabitants, which goes by the name of the " Forest City," on account of the great number of trees planted along the well-laid broad streets. 1 have given you two peeps '" London and its surroundings, but must leave you to imagine the rest, as I cannot give a personal report. But one thing I can tell you. Just after we left Canada, a very spirited little monthly jxiper for women was started in London, called Wives and Daughters. If M II, 'I I \ • ]' 'I'hrough ('anada with a Kodak. f '111 ::ii ' (I ever any of you go to Canada I advise you to take it in, and meanwhile 1 hojje to give )0U extracts from it now and again. And now, ( iood-night, ladies and gentlemen. I hope that my inefficiency as a guide to the agricultural fairs will not prevent you from allowing me to conduct you to the balls of Niagara, and then to Canada's capital, and then we must hie away West. But now once more, Cood-night ! ' I ih! I': i| , I I \ I ■ i . D ; ir l» \'I1. ( ) T T A W A. '•i 0\ second thoughts, 1 think wc had better not hnger at Niagara. Vou must ha\e heard it descriljed so often, and have seen so many pictures of it, that we should be going over what you would fee/ io be well-known ground. So I will onlv give vou a little picture of these wonderful falls, and then pass on. Only do not you ever think that vou can have the slightest conception of what "the I'alls" are reallv like until )'0U have been there, until you have stood and gazed at them, and have looked at them from this point and from that, above and below, here where they are about to precipitate themselves in a wild surging flood over the cliffs, and there where the mighty volume of water, having poured itself down o\er the crags and rocks in grand magnificence, convulses itself into terrific and seemingly useless fury in its efforts to make its way along its course. Watch, and look, and listen to the roar of manv waters, and go back again and again, and then \ou will know what you have felt Niagara to mean, ihouiih vou ma\' ne\i'r be able to describe it. i \ T» i X. i ^ .«'. i .A] t •h i: \\\ i< »]i I ■^ 11 ^y J:'' ; ,. ,«' ' I < 72 Through Canada with a Kodak. Ml! ! > " I I! 1 !f .i It :■ ■' '■ '} : ii I .1 ^1 It is the Niagara district that shares with that ininie- diatcly round Hamilton, the distinction of producing the finest fruit in the Dominion, as well as the greatest (luantity. And we found that reputation to he in nu wise exauuer ated when we visited the Fair at Hamilton and saw the rows and ro ws ol ai)i>les and ])ears, a nd pt'aclies, of all sizes and descriptions ; and then the gra[)es I \\'h\ have I not a photograi)h to show you the loni pile(l-u[) tables, co^■ered with lovely clusters of i)looni-co\ere( -rap es N ie iMagara wliite grape is h.itt su[)poseci open-air lo o ;rapej e the best of the varietii;s of Canadian II of which have a taste somewhat .'s^ an oi wmcn nave a lasie some) peculiar to thcmsekes and not liked by ever\'i)ody. Speaking from experience, 1 can only say tliat we thought we had never tasted b(,'tter grai)es in our lives, than some which we g' chered, grf.wing in a [perfectly wild state up the cliffs, near Dundas, where we had scrambled u\) in pursuit of butterflies and a most s])lendid view. Some day you will have a better chance of tasting Canadian- , grown grapes wlien niore s])ecial arrangements are made for their conveyance by the steamers. As it is, if you want the best apples in the market, you will always ask for "Niagara" aj)ples. But we are lingering too long in the fruit orchards of Ontario, and we must repair to the station again at Hamilton and take our tickets for Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion ; tor Ottawa, which, some twenty-five years ago, went l)y the name of Bye- i l|j-fr I ^2 ■'•"^•m^0^- ^ 1.1 I • II. I ^1 « » 1 • i I! ..4- »l'l t >. SH '• 'J! ,T -l.f |. "•"1! J''ai/s of Xiacara 74 'rhrouL!;h Canada with a Kodak. ' 111 f r ' it town, a Hudson IJay ("ompany station and a centre for tlic lumberers. Now at a distance we see the proud towers of the l\arliament Houses and (lovernment Huildings, commanding the heights above tlie river, and we see a town which, though far smaller than Montreal, . //'('rr A'/'ai^ara. or Toronto, or even Hamilton, can well challenge com- parison in point of lier picturesque situation, and one \\T;..n nul<^ from all ijccounts, be a centre of l)rightness :\n(\ mirt'i .:il tl.i-')Ugh the merry Canadian winter. She owis 'u-'- po,-;itH)n as capital tc the fact that when all the ..S0 m ! ' .■! e c -,"'« i; 1 ' ' 1 ;t I ... ■•■■ i( ',■■■'11 i.f; I! :i;i I .1 '! ;i 1' ,1 I', il ill 76 'J'hrough Canada with a Kodak. different provinces in Canada were confederated into one Dominion in t866, there was too much jealousy between the ureat cities of Montreal and I'oronto to allow of either of these being chosen, and so the Queen . ;■ .•..^•■-HiA»>'^. S>:t^^ #,^-M^'' Lonif Stanley. chose the little Indian town of Ottawa, standing on the confines of (luebec and Ontario, to be the centre of Ciovernment. AVe spent some most interesting days fl) Ottawa. 77 here. I will but mention our visit to Sir John Macdonald, and the kindness with which he received us, for I cannot attempt a task which would take too long, viz., to tell you about the statesmen and leaders of political life in Canada '' ^^WfSpfT^W*^'' fWn H ^'-^. i - ,'• fi m i -a ■i ''"W M "lA -;:■: '^■mw- Zrt^/y Stanley. at whose hands we received kindness. They were good enough to gather at a dinner given to Lord Aberdeen later on, and both then and at all times they did all in 'J I vA \ ) 4' V "l;, y IH 1 '$ 1 t ■ K Till «" sill' 78 Throimh ('anada witli a Kodak. 1* I I ill ' ii '•; •> i» .1 ' I ii 'I ' ir 1 • 'I their power to make our visit combine l)Oth instruction and pleasure, ^'ou will have noticed in the papers that after Sir John Macdonald's death, before Sir John A})bott became Premier, Sir John ^J'hompson, the Minister of Justice, was first summoned by the (lovernor-Cieneral to form a d vernment. \\'e had the chnnce of making Sir John and Lady 'I'hompson's acquaintance in the steamer which took us across the Atlantic, and we and our Kodak did our best to take photographs of them, but I am sorr)- to say that that l)est on that occasion was a failure, and so you are cheated of [)ictures which we should have much liked to reproduce in our Maga/ine, and which would have reminded us of many pleasant talks. At Ottawa, as elsewhere in the I )ominion, the Scotch element is strong . and at the house of our kind friend Sir James (irani (or, as we should delight to call him in Inverness-shire, " Corrymon)," which is the old home of his famih-, and the laird of which he is by descent) and Lady (Irant, where we were introduced to a number of prominent citizens, we found that not a few claimed Scottish birth or ])arentage. Under Sir James's escort, too, we visited the beautifully-arranged (ieological Museum, where we were shown specimens of all the valuable minerals that lie buried in Canadian soil, and which will enrich man)- future generations. A\'e saw, too, samples of the beautiful precious stones which ' 1 Ottawa. i 79 (Canada can j)roduce for her (-hilclicii, Lahradoritcs, and Sodorites, and Pcrthites, and Astcrias, all radiating with beautiful soft blues and pur[)les, and golden and silver colours. They have not yet become flishionable, but .Sv^i **^ u:^ Sir John AN'ott. /'riii/c M inistcr of Caiuuhi, iSqi-qj. when they are known their time will come. 'J 'hen we went upstairs and saw^ the cases of birds and butterflies, and Lord Aberdeen brought away with liim two loxely 111 11" mi >4I i II « ll ■ ■ \ J«# I » ' I I J 80 Through Canada with a Kodak. httlc stuffed owls, not more than five inches high, and these little owls now look down on me from the top of A pah- 0/ . \ci-cd/nn or Saii-ivhct Owls. my bookcase at home, and exhort me to be as wise as they are. But we brought something else besides these wee owls back from Ottawa. Of course a " Fair" was Ottawa. 8i going (Ml here too, and after the parade ol cattle and of cart horses came some pairs of fast trotting carriage horses, and among these were a pair of hlack horses whicli Lord Aberdeen admired so much that he houulit ^VUf*.'V''»^ 1 "•I \ ) il ;j.: t; 'II , Cnnndinn Dich a/it/ />'/// nt Doilis Hill, 11 illcs 1.0 >ii 1^ 12.2 £ 1^ 12.0 I.I 1-4 |_L6 |1.25 6" 'a ft /J c%^ 7 >^ 'W 7 fliotographic Sciences Corporation 2?) WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716)»72-4S03 ^ A"^ . 'V o ^ ►^ 8: 'I'hrough Canada with a Kodak. it ■II ■ .1 ,1 •• '' tt ■ >\ ! .1 ■' i! I 't what is said to them very well. They go very fast, and take us up to J.ondon from our little farm at Dollis Hill, fully five miles away, in half-an-hour easily. Here they are, ready to start. At the Ottawa Fair we also had the opportunity of making acquaintance with the Hon. Mr Carling, Minister for Agriculture. He was good enough to offer to take us to see the (iovernment Mxperimental Farm he had established about three miles from the town. So on a glorious September afternoon we drove out, in company with Mr Carling and Mr Mackintosh, one of the Members of Parliament for the city, another kind friend of ours. The Farm was taken in hand by Mr Carling about four years ago, and scarcely a day passes when he is at Ottawa without his visiting it. There are about 500 acres in all ; but it ' s not yet all cultivated. Experiments of all sorts are carried on here relative to seeds, feeding- stuffs, flowers, fruit, vegetables, trees, poultry, cattle, sheep, pigs, horses, t\:c., &c., and the results of the experiments are published from time to time. I'he farmers from all over the Dominion can send their seeds here to be tested as to fertility, nutritiousness, &c. ; and this thev ran do free of cost, for the l^ost-Office carries everything addressed to and from the Experimental Farm free. ^\nd the farmers are largely taking advantage of the o])portunities thus afforded them, and are cultivating their farms according to the advice given, and so far the Ottawa. : '\5 results have been found satisfactory. Then, again, seecU are sent to careful farmers in the various provinces for them to test in tlieir various locahties and climate, and to rejjort upon. W'c saw at the Farm various houses and })lots of ground where experiments were l)eing carried on, and we saw also a dairy in process of (construction, where they are to test the i)roduce of various breeds of cows as to milking powers, and the different methods of making butter, cheese, »!vc. Exi^eriments are also being made as to the expense of feeding animals. 'J'o illustrate this Mr Saunders, the energetic manager, showed us some s})lendid, sleek, healthy-looking Clydesdales, which were fed at a cost of only 15 cents a day (about 8d.), by having their hay and all their food chop})ed uj), and not wasted in any way. I will not, however, keep those of you who are not interested in agricultural matters longer at what we found to be a most engrossing place ; nor will I tell you just now of the half-hour spent with Mr Fletcher, who superintends the entomological and garden- ing departments, and who makes researches as to the insects which are injurious and those that are beneficial, and how to keej) down the former and encourage the latter. No, we must hurry off to see some of the saw-mills at work, which are one of the sights of Ottawa. As you look on the enchanting view down the river, from the high terrace outside the Tarliament Houses, you see I I t ■ ii ^jj I' f 84 Through (Canada with a kodak. thousands and thousands of huge i)ilcs of sawn planks, and wlicn you go down amongst them, you walk througii them as through narrow streets of high buildings, and \ou wontler how there tan ever he enough demand for ' I I I ,1 1 If 77tc I'ici^'/roiii the I'oracf outside PnrHaincnt liiiiUiings, Otta-a'a. all this Avood. Both by day and night (by the use of the electric light) do the huge saw-mills work on, replenishing and increasing these vast stores of wood, which are destined to travel to all parts of the world. It is a wonderful thing to stand in one of these mills, vibrating '^ ' !' Ottawa. 85 with the workings of the mighty engines working the huge saws and l)Iades, and full of busy workers moving between the machinery, which is acting out its relentless will on each victim from the far away woods which it receives into its jaws. \'ou see these huge forest trees, cut down hundreds of miles away, each marked with its owner's brand, floated dov,-n the river, and guided down the rushing water to the sj)eiMal mill to which it belongs. In a moment it is hauled up, dripping, and dark, and rough, and it is under the steel teeth of tlu' huge monster - a crasii and a hiss, and in a few moments, after having run the gauntlet of one machine after another, the king of the forest emerges out of the other end of the shed, a pile of common-])lace looking ))lanks. " Lumbering," as it is called, has been (jne of the chief industries of Canada during the last fiftv vears, and young men loving a rough adventurous life have de- lighted in its freedom, its variet\-, and its dangers. The lumberers live amongst the forests in rough shanties all through the winter, felling the trees, and marking them, and taking them down all sorts of [)recii)itous slides, called "skidways,"' through snow, and ice, and drifts, to the water's edge. Their dress is rough, they sleep in a blanket on a bunk, and their food consists for the most [)art of |)ork and home-made bread, and huge potions of tea (no intoxicating drinks are ever allowed at the shanties), but they seem to be none the worse for their ' t -iV. ? J n J in 1 \ ) ' 1 I- i* ■ • 'I ''■>' 'J. II I *" J I '•X so 'I'liroimh Ciiiuuhi with u Kodak. ,1 1 n i> I ,1 •' I • I !« ,1 M 1! I 1 1 I iKiidshii)^. As tlK'V work they shout tlic nicrry himhcrcrs" son^s, and now and again thi'\' have a tiliancc of us'uv^ ih( iiIIls whicli lie always ready to hand, and tlicy get sonic tivsli venison as a reward of their skill. They also trap hears oecasionally. The traj) is Ibrnied of an en(l')sure of stakes dri\en into the ground. A log is then suspended above, i)roj)pe(l up \)y a stick to whieh the bait is attached, and when i)o()r " Mr IJruin" is unwary enough to sei/e the tempting dainty he is done fori Whin spring conies, the lunihernian's duties alter. Tiiev have to see that the logs brought down to the waters edge get proi)erly into the current, that none get caught 1)\ the rocks or other impediments, and the ('angers encountered in driving down timber like this are vtr\' considerable, although the skill of the men in jumping from log to log in the water, in guiding them with their long hooks, and in running their flat-bottomed boats tlown the rapids, is very remarkable. On rivers whire large cataracts occur, artificial channels are made, called "slides."" These are lined with timber, and at the upper end gates are put up through which the [)ent-ui) water can be admitted or shut off. I )own these '' slides "' pass the "cribs," which are formed of logs fastened together with large pieces of timber on the top. Often a rouLth wooden hut is also fixed on the crib for the raftsmen, who guide their craft either with long oars, called ''sweepers."" or put u^) a sail on an improvised e * ^ «? V J: i \ ) h' tt; I h: tm , ;' » f i^' *r. '••C i s ,i: 88 'I'hrough Canada with a Kodak. 'II' I * " I I' I I ■ill ■ I I' .1 'I t 'S mast. 'I'licrc is one of these slides near Ottawa, on which visitors are taken who desire to have the sensation of " shooting a slide." When you embark above the crih- gates, you are hidden to take a firm hold of a i)oie fastened on to the logs beneath ; the gates are thrown <)l)en ; the water surges over; the crib, cafefully steered through the gateway, advances over the entrance, and then leaps with a rush down the narrow channel till it reaches the calm water below. >\'e did not ourselves taste the pleasures of the plunge, but have taken this account of it from an article on " Lumbering," by Prin- cil)al (Irant, in J^ictiiresijue Canada, 'J'he sensation must be much the same as that enjoyed l;)y the Canadian tobogganers, whose sport reigns supreme among the many winter amusements. We visited Rideau Hall, the residence of the CiOvernor-( leneral, and saw the high toboggan-slide put up by the Manjuis of Lome, of which we here give you a picture, which is the centre of so much bright, healthy fun. I need not describe to you what a toboggan is, for you see it here in its rapid headlong descent, with its laughing, breathless freight, and the mischances and tumbles, and occasions for merriment to which its voyagers are exposed. Here I shall leave you a while to amuse \ourselves, or to wait to see one of the (lovernor's toboggan parties by torchlight, and if you get tired of this, try your hand at our old Scotch game of curling, for which you will find ample ?r. ^i \ ') ih t • • • t 90 Through (anatla with a Kodak. facihtics hartl l)\, or tr\ your snow-sliocs, or summon a sloigli and liavc a iR-witching drivf to thr sound of tlit- jangh'ng hells along the smooth, (lr\-, hard, snow-covered roads. I go to |)rei)are our car tor our Westward trip. I' 1 ■I !! ■ il I * ' t '} is 1 If < H 1 '.-^ ';»v,/. J,-. \ III, ACROSS Till': I'kAlklKS. Now, in witli yoLi, if you do not want to be left behind '. And jjlcasu runiL'ml)er that you have to kcc'i) your wits about you during this journey when )<)U get out at railway stations. We have left the wiiistles behind us in the old (xmntry, and in their stead you iiear a bell, which at first reminds you more than anything else of the bell of a country church or school, and when you hear that bell, scramble in as best you can, for there will be no slamnu'ng of carriage doors, no crying of ''Take your seats," no guard's whistle as a last warning. 'I'he conductor calls "All aboard,"' but if the train is a long one, you are as likely as not to miss hearing him. And at every station where we stop you will see after the train has actually started, a rush of stragglers scrambling u[) on the "platforms" at either end of the long cars. Of course you know that trains in America are not at all like those in this country. Here you have a picture of our car, and all the carriages are constructed on this i)rincipal with a ])latform at each end, over which t i I i I, i- I, ,: »<•* f • „ilf i> •! I< 'f' 92 Through Canada with a Kodak. • ti 1 1 !! 'I r you can [)as.s when the train is in nu)tit)n. IV()i)Ic' walk from one carriage to another, and (hiring the long './// .l/'oan/ r Across the Prairies. 93 journeys dining-cars arc attached at certain hours of the day, where passengers can go and have tlieir meals, and feel very niucli as it' tliey were in a moving hotel. Little tables for two or tour people are placed down each side 1 M 9f i •^:^^i': rite Cat ill :>'fiic/i ?('<■ trn7'iluhich we could shut ourselves off into comfortable little rooms at night, when partitions were put up, and (-urtains drawn, and beds pulled down by our faithful ])orter, John (who ministered to all our wants most assiduously), and during the day could be used as one long sitting-room, })anelled with pretty white mahogany, where we read, and wrote, and ]:)ainted, and where we had many a pleasant little tea-party during the four weeks while we inhabited it. We thought we had chosen tjuite the best time of year for our tri]), although it might be considered a little late Across the I 'rallies. 95 by some, for when we woke up tlie first morning after leaving C)ttawa, we found ourselves passing through roads all flaming with the gorgeous autumnal tints of the mai)le i John Bai/'cr, our Car-Potter. and other trees, and underneath the trailing leaves of various berry-bearing jilants made a carpet of rich yellows, and reds, and browns. I think, if 1 am to be truthful, 1 must admit that this scenery would have borne rather J !) mi I (1 * % I ' ' i.' 1 1 96 'I'hrough Canada with a Kodak. \i Ml' •I I ■'I 'I VJ a forbidding aspect if it had not l)cen for these rich colourings, and we can scarcely wonder if newly-arrived emigrants bound Westward feel rather depressed at pass- ing through a stretch of such apparently sterile country .1 I 'on/ig- Settlement. at the outset of their journey. The trees are stunted, the vegetation allows us to see the stony character of the soil below ; some of the telegraph poles even have to be upheld by heaps of stones around them, and the desola- tion is often rendered greater by many of the trees having been the prey of forest fires, the result either of Across the Prairies. 97 d, le )e a- of the (\T,rek'Ssn(jss of settlers or Indians, or arising from sparks from tht* engine falling on the dry inflammable substances all around. And yet this region has charms of its own the fishermen can tell of the wealth to be found in the rivers and lakes, the geologist and the miner will tell you of the yet comparatively unex{)l()red riches of silver and copper and other metals which are stored up for Canada's children beneath the unpromising look- ing surface, and the artist will revel in the wild grandeur of the mountain and lake scenery all along the coast of Lake Su[)eri()r. A succession of magnificent promon- tories, frowning rocks and crags, surrounding the lovely bay of that vast expanse o\' water calling itself a lake, meets your eye as the train bears you along, and you lav- down your ])encil and brush in bewilderment as to which j)oint to seize amidst so much beauty, and instead, you revert to the faithful rai)id Kodak to record )-our memories of 'I'hunder Bay, and Jack fish i)a\, and the Lake of the \Voods, and many another spot of beauty. And then one dav as you wake up and peej) out behind the blind of ycnu" car, the mountain, and the kike, and the torrent ha\e disaj)j)eared, and instead y(Hi behold a vast stictch of grassy country, and you realise that you see before vou the far-famed wheat-lands of Manitoba, and that Winnipeg, the City of Prairies, lies hard by. At Wituiipeg we felt almost as if we had a home awaiting us, for our friend, Sir Donald Smith, about t i i 1) 1 1 1 »"; 1. • K I ii '"« e ( ; ^„(U'' 98 Through Canada with a Kodak. ;» [' I whose generosity to liis native country I have told you before, had written to us even before we left England, and had bidden us to come to his house at Silver Heights, and to make ourselves at home. And so, on the veran- dah of Silver Heights we were assembled with my ■' *«ti^:^^";S%?C*.. ..■.■,<™ , J/r ( ^'J!r/,ii (.■('//(> c/tn'sti-nrd the I.nkc oj K illivncv i and ///.\- re/A' fa/A-i/ii,- to I.07-d Ahi-rdrcii. brother (who met us here), and Mr Traill, Sir J)onald's manager. Here, too, are Sir Donald's buffiiloes, the last remaining in Canada of the millions who used to inhabit the prairies, and whose bones you still see in dismal heaps as you pass along. Across tlu' Prairies. 99 . And now, wliat am I to say about Winnipeg? It is 700 feet al)ovL' the sea level, it has a {)0|)ulation of 28,000 (twenty years ago there were only 215 inhabit- ants), it lias some fine buildings, wide strtets, it is lighted . ;// tltui is lilt ol th,- ruflalo. with electric light, it is a great railway centre, and is destined to become a great capital. \"ou still, however, can see how recent is its birth, for side by side with a fine house stands an old Red River settler's log hut, the wide streets are still mostlv un))a\'ed, and on a wet day =;»' ; 'J: ■A ■'i ,|: I' SJl U I v:: ^ 1 1 lOO riirough ('anada \\\t\\ a Kodak. I. 1 i( ■i-il ■ i) J * I, ■ 1- (I ' I 1 i >. i 'I 'J I scrvr as adniirablc illustrations of the richness and the hiackncss of Manitcjha soil, and you still see passing through the city by the side of a carriage and pair, the- old Red River carts made entirely of wood, creaking as thev go. '!"he rate of progress amazes the inhabitants themselves, and it is very pleasant to hear stories of things as they were and as they are. I'or instance, look at this dog-carriage ; that is the vehicle in which the ("•(nernor and his wife used to be transi)orted to Ottawa not so manv vears ago. Rather a different business now-a-days, is it not? We must not linger long here, much as I should like to tell you of the many impres- sions left on our minds by \Vinni|)eg, its inhabitants and its surroundings, and of all the truly Scotch hosi)itality with which we were entertained whilst there, and again on our return journey, not only l)y Sir Donald Smith, and the Lieut. -(Governor, Mr Schultz, and his wife, but by many other friends of whose kindness we cherish grateful memories. One of the impressions most strongly left on our minds by our stay in Winnipeg was the strongly marked reliuious tone of the communitv. I'his is not onlv shown bv the number of churches and religious institu- tions, but in the evident earnestness of i)urpose, which causes peo[)le who have but little s[)are time in this young city, to devote themselves to active works of religion and ben jNolence. 'I'he great scarcit\- of ser^•ants often throws a S .«^ til. I ■M I ■ It 'H ». f IT H I I />M 102 'I'hrough (Janada with a Kodak. It 111 I! ' i ■i-j ■ >\ H i: ;i . i '■ ii ■ I ■ ,1 ili » 4 ' 'I large part of the household work on the ladies themselves, and yet they contrive to throw themselves into Christian work, and to take charge personally of the orphans and the aged poor, and to befriend the stranger in a way which may well i)ut us to shame. One of their latest organisations undertakes to send out monthly ixirceb: of literature to settlers in Manitoba and the North-West. It is difficult for those at home to realise the isolation of such settlers ; everything has to be begun and carried on by the work of their own hands, and their whole thoughts are absorbed by the desi)erately hard work which is an essential for success. Church is far away, there are no libraries or reading-rooms or means of self- improvement at hand, and the temptation must be great in such lives to forget mind and soul in the struggle for material prosperity. 'I'hose who stay at home and have friends in these distant [iarts should remember that no greater kindness can be shewn than by sending out good weekly newspapers and magazines, perhaps a picture now and again to brighten up the walls of the wooden house, perhaps some flower seeds from the garden at home, which will bring tender thoughts to the minds of those now so far away, and who will teach their children to tend the little plants sent by "grannie" or "auntie," and so make them think of doing their best to make their homes beautiful and home-like. Frugality, and self-denial, and strength of character are developed by { » Across the l*rairi(js. 'o;> the stern life .vhich must he led by the settler in Manitoba who means to pros[)er. It is our part to do our best to prevent the possibility of thesi' sterner virtues from becoming too stern, and Irom growing into a mere {)assion to get on and to make money. And if you have no friends in Canad.i yourselves, may 1 ask. those who are willing to do so to save uj) their papers, and i)ictures, and magazines, and to send them to Maihuiic Gmtticr, the L.A. Association for distrihutiui:; JJteraturc to Settlers^ IVinnipCi^, Manitoba. The ladies of this Association are deluged with applications for monthly packets of such literature, and find that packets containing consecutive issues of the same magazine are those most valued. They will be very gratified for all contributions, helpful for mind, and heart and soul, and tending to give thoughts which will uplift the common daily work which would otherwise be drudgery. Now let me tell you of a visit we paid to some new settlers from Scotland who are amongst those w^ho need help and sympathy to be shown in this way. And first 1 will quote from a letter from Sir George Baden Powell to the Daily Graphic to e\j)lain how they came over from Scotland : THE KMIORATION FIND. The general public — and so many arc now-a-days interested in emigration and colonisation — will remember that the scheme was inaugurated in 1888, when the (jovernment finally decided to offer J Hi ( ■■»! i iji ( * r'" M' » I ■"'iHjI, 4 »:♦ 104 Through Canada with a Kodak. ;i it ...J •I I i * 'i '' ,1 i' I ^'lOjCXJO if aiiniliLr /J2000 was j^ivcn l)y private cliarity. At first (lio I''im(l was adininistcrc'd !>) tin- Scotcli ( )rticf, iiiulc'r tla- jicr- sonal guiilancc nf Lord I.otliian. Iml in iIil- sccoii'l year a special Colnnisation IJoard was appt)iiite(l, CDiisistin^ of representatives of the In)))erial and Canadian ( lov ernnunts. tlu' private sul)scril)ers, and the land companies aidini; the expt'rinirnl. 'I'hc jiroposal was MiUi/'toii, M(iii/ii>/'(i. to select and import to Manitoba such families among the crofters as might apply. It was estimated that a sum of ^120 per family would be sufficient to establish them on the l6o-acre lots ofifered them by Canada. This sum was to be eventually repaid by each family, security being meanwhile given by a mortgage on the hold- ing and on the goods and chattels. Across I lu' rr.)iiifs. »o5 I ill. iik>i >i,\r oi'i irS wiTi' tli.'>|),il(hf ami ls\fl\f 111(1 III Mil), iSSS, ii|^likt'ii lainil 10 familii's Inllowcd in Juik' i>1' tlu' Naiiir )iai. In April, |SS<), loily-iiiiu' I'aii.ilics v.iTc sciil mil. 'I'ln- jduriuy trDin Smtlaiid to Maniloiui was arc<)in|ili>lu't.'ast)ii, and t'\tra I'lhut^ had to lir made In pr<)\i(K' duiii willi necessaries for the lir>l wIhUt. ManyoCilu- ciolirrN <^:i\v i.'\ idciiri' at Diicc of an indolciil reliance on ciiarily, and maintained that ( loNermneiil waN to liiid a iionie for, and t-veii clothe llieiii. l>iit the spirit of the country r^ooii lell upon them ; lliere was work ami hope in the atmosphere: hy the second year actual crops i;a\e earnest (or the hiture, and !•) the third, with its excellent har\e>l, indolence and ^ruiiihlinjj; iiad been completely jiushed a>ide and lortjoUen, in haliitN of hard work and conlideiice ii I plenty ami >ui'ceM.-.. 1 a fut lire of .MKK'IINC. Willi hll IK ri.'l 1I..S. The second hatch of emigrants also met with ditticullies at the outset, Mighleen families cnlianced their diftlcullies hy refusini^ to lake the lands chosen for llieiii, and wanderinLj alield to find others. The heads of some of th ese wandennt; faniil les, inakinj;, after all, but a ])oor seK'Ction of lands, fell lo ihe tem])tation of excellent waives in a di.slaiit lumber induslr)', and after a wh.ile deserted their holdinj^s, and somehow found the means of trans- ferring themselves and their laniilies hundreds of miles lo the wage earning locality. J'ossibly they w ill return to tluir holdings, especi- ally as all who remained are now doing well, and feeling more than contented : the very greatest original grumbler among them on f.rst arrival declaring that now no power on earth sliall drag liim from his holding. If .i ;> I 1 ' I tf 1. :,:■ ^ "'•tCj I' K II » ll io() 'I'liroiigli ('aiiada wiili .1 K(j(Iak. i- 1 A I \S(tkk IS ( W \|i \. TIlfM' rt Ikivo ii.iw |»iiil( |,i| llirm.«>c'Ivis \i.iy I'lmlortalilc lioiisis ; llity uuii \snrki1114 oMii, milk cows, ami tvin horses; tlifv an- iu'cusid (il liaxiiiL; l"»ii_i;lii iiiuir waj^^nii.s ami ri'apiTs and Mmii'is and <>[\w\ aijricullural niacliiiK'N llian llir) liaw iii'cd uf ; ami, as I pdintrd •At\ ai \\\r li.^iiniinL.' "f this arlick', the actual I (I 1) '' K ;l * ,1 u diii/iiii^xjriiti/ ii i;ri>ii/> oj Munitol'iins a! Manitoha. results oftluMr lalxmrs arc to iiiacc eacli fainily in a fair way to own a prosperous farm of 160 acres. Some live close ijy lakes and streams, affording plenty of good trout and wild fowl. (iood school and kirk acconniiodation is already provided, and there can he no doubt hut that in another three years these settlements will he among the most well-to-do of the jirairie "locations." Lord Lothian is certaiidy to he congratidaled upon the success of his experiment. Across the Prairies. 107 Mr Scarlh, DcMiiitiion Mcml)Lr of I'jrliamuiU for Winnipeg, took great i)crs()nal troiildc; in the settling of these Higliland erofters, and lie and Mrs Scarth lived amongst them for tlu- first few weeks, when they arriveii as strangers, without friends, and had to he camped out in tents. He now kindly madi' all arrangements for u^ to visit the settlement, and I will give you a few extracts from my journal ahout our visit, written at the time, along witii S(jme pictures which tell their own laK- : Tl"l'>l).\N, (Jclolicr 7tli, lSt)0. Willi In lilllc lioU'l {\>v hn-.iU- (Ust, iiiiii l>y iiiiu- wctl- rciuly for our sUirt. KilhiriK'y miIkt a. rcspcctal)li' little ])I;i(:c lor I'mir yi'ars old. Mr I/ilor, tlu- local inLTchniil. wlio li;iN liiUtii groat chargv "' t'^' llii;lilanil crofters wliDiii Wf IkkI come to see, liad arranged to drive us at Mr Scartli's re(|uesl. So off we went, A., CouUs, Mr l.alor, and uiy>elf, in what they call a "Democrat," a sort of long, four-wheeled cart, with two seats, one behind the other. It was a perfect day for our lorly miles drive across the prairie ; not nuu'li sun, luit a bright shining always in the long fleecy clouds, which extend themselves in long, long stretches of manifold shapes in the way which we have come to look upon as especially Canadian. No wind, but an inde- scnbably brisk bracing air, which we want to inhale in long breaths all the while. And, as we thought when travelling on a previous occasion in Texas and Dakota, driving on the prairie and on the trails running through the |)rairies is unlike any other driving. The soft elasticity of the ground carries one over all the bumps, and jars, and ruts ; and roots and hillocks are all [)assed over as the most natural things in the world. lUit with all this, I am not going to rave about the scenery (jf Manitoba : for to a mountain l)red visitor I* ;l I) i 1 • i.l , ... .M' r-„.||l r w 108 'iniroLigh Canada with a Kodak. i.f; I* .11 ■F[ •I'll '■ H ' 'I ' 'I 1' 'I I' ,1 t • i I . 'I I these everlastiiii; |)rairies, willi their serpenline black trails windini,' through them, appear, on hrst ac<|uaiiitance at any rate, niex- jiressibly dreary. Of course to-day we have been L^oin.g ihroui^h lanee even any atteni])t after the conimonesl sort ol tidiness, much less any effort to nurture a few flowers, a jilant, or a tree. BuL the Maniloban^ have >hown thai they value education, for little schools ;ire i>lanled down everywhere where there are hfteen children to attend, and the teachers are not badly paid. We went into one of these schools to-day, where there are about twenty children, and a pleasenl looking young man, an M.A.. who also has a farm ni the neighbourhood, was leaching them. lie said the great .lifhculty was the irregularity of allendance, which made his work resemble that of Sisyphus and become real drudgery. Such country schools are shut uj) during the winter, and in the autumn the children are kept away for harvest work, so that it is only the three spring months that can be depended on. Our fust visit was to the old Irishman ()"lhien, who con- stituted himself the god-father of the jilace, and insisted on its being called Killarney. I am afraid that my smothered exclamation of anuisemenl on lirsl sight of the lake, remend)ering our fu'st sight of til'.' real Killarney, was taken as disrespectful by our cicerone, but. Ml truth, it /'s the i)rettiest thing we have seen in Manitoba. After seven or I'ight miles we came to the first crofter, one John Macleod. who had been one of the grumblers about small things, but he made no grumble to us, and said he thought he should get along well now. Then came John Nicholson's section, lie is one of the most successful, but, unfortunately he and his wife were away from home. lli' had his ten acres cultivated according to sti]mla- Across till' Prairies. I0() tioti ihc first year (1889), tliis yt'ur he Inul 55; next )var he is |)re]Xirin<^ lor 75. His whcul hasliern thraslu-d, ami we saw il all ill Ills new little wooden harii — 900 Imshels, reinx'senlint; about ^ 150. His first barn was still staiidini^. maiK- of sods. Other four crofters t(j the West are relations, and all on one >e(nioii, and are doing well. We saw two more of llu' Lewes families, |ohii Campbell and his .l/r luuf Mis l\fi> Cfii'ianf .< cotta'^i. wife and children, in whose cotlai^e also was old .Mr> Maclcod, whose husband holds nieelin<;> while the missionar) is away in the winter, Mrs .Mac(lonald. I'eter (.rahani and his wile, a tidy, capaiilc-looking woman with live bonii)' bairns. We photographed some of the ])eople and their places, thoui^h some were \ery un- J ■ x I "It 3 1:' t I "1 ,1 '■■ r 1' '■ J II II 1 ^■. ;H' XS" :^l' ,^J,J, 'J- \i i- 1 1 10 Through Canada with a Kodak. willing, being in their working cloliics. One re(|uires to think of vviiat these people were before they came out. to appreciate their jiresent position and prospects. Some who came knew nothing about agircultural work — one had never used a hay-fork in his life. And that tiiey should have got on so well as they have done is very ■' H I) . ■! I' ,1 • I :' J i 1 's .1/r a)iii out ol nur ua)' up ,i rouLjli hill, which landed us on the i'|iecl. and newly married, ]uil us rit:;ht attain, and we were llu'n nady lor our lour o'eloek luncheon, at Mrs Daroui^h's. at tlie farndiou>e oT ( ik'nli rn. 'Hie threshing; was goini^j on then', and tlu'y had had ;i Inisy dny. v ith lO or 17 men *.■•" J ' 4 til ■>■ I % J'hi' hufoiii:,!: iiinHy lit t l was awav bevond their reach ^^ell, here ,s the true unvarnished statement of the fa.n. as written at the time : - '• Wc startcl H-on, Winnipcj^ soon a-tcr .ix, a,ul ahoul ci.^ht uv Had just Kone across u> the dining-car and hc^un our dinnc,; uhen tlH^rc came a sudden treniendous screwing on of the brakes a series ofjerks, an al>rupt transi;..-ence of crockery and ^k.ss Iron, table, to iW and then the car was n.otionle.s, and all was perlectiy still feop le looked at one another for a ,non.ent-the .san.e unuttered thought passmg through each nund, -^hen can.e the tidin-^s • The engine is oft the rails ! ' A. rushed oH with others to see ^ha, had "I 1 ■■I ' I ' V, :='!*! K '<■, H II- 1 14 'I'll roll uh ("anada \vitii a Kodak. ;» I'L'ally (iccuriL'd. ami ui' \\i.i"r anui/cd In timl how imicli (lainat^i' ua> diiiU'. ulu'ii ur r(in'iiil)tTc'(l tlir comiiaiiliM.'!) .sliij;lit shdck wi.' had fcii. Tlir niLjiiu' waN lyint; <>n its side, on llir liaiik, all cnmiiilril and linn. llu; fuinul half inlo iIk' i^iDund and >lill smoking; aua) ; llii- Iciidrr. upside down across llir rails, lowcrinjj; alio\ (,■ the liii^i^at^c- \aii on its sidr. ( )n the ollK'r sidr ol the line, one car hall tlou n llu- ani ami hre'' ni< >re > ill the rail Ik' tinx'e last ears, nirhidimi' llu dinniLi-ear and ours, wen- slill on IIk rails. N o one could asccatani the cau.- iilthe ai-cidenl. and for a lew minutes there was Lireal •^uspcaise as to whether anv one waskilleil or injured. MarvellousK and inercilulU' no one was knied. and the entrine-dru er. tne-nian. ami express niesseiisjer werc' onlv soniew liat cut and hruisc'd IK' driser had. with Ll^real presence of niind. turned oil sleani. put on (he liiakes at llie llrst jerk, and tlu'ii jumped oil': the lireman reniaineil. ihinkini^. as he himself expressed il. that the enL^iiU' would "ride Hie tie- It is Wonderful how he escaiied. when the part of lie eiiLrine w hen.' he was siltine; was all smashed. All inthel\ an, IK- llu- riilc tlK- llK- iro- arlh. llK- and •(1 a ilion na. W rhi^ J 'I 31- K t 1 '1 ; I a ■ I i I ::i if 'l I I .1 t ■'* ! i I 1 1 ;l I :i 1 !i •-■ ii6 Through ('anada with a Kodak. iipprouch slowly and cautiously. A party from our train wurv on tin outlook for thcni, and motioned thcni to proceed l)y swiiii^ing ,i lantern backwards and forwards, l)ul they crept up inch by inch makin<; sure of their way as they came. And then all at once ihi- • ,» t.- ; f ♦ *' - / , ^. ...^ y fctw. ^^^^ ■1 w jeK^hHp^^^hShI^BSH^^^ * ^^?^^^^^l ^^^ mM ''xIE^^^ZiHIH^^^ .<.hotOi^,aplu\{ hy ike Ktuh'k the iiiorn!)ig a/ici- accident. l)lace was alive with groups of the new-c(jmers, surnjunding the remains of our wrecked train, examining, en(|uiring, testing the amount of damage done, and ere long setting to w'ork with pick- axe and spade to remove the debris which lay across the lorn-up line. It was soon tlecided that lhe}■ mid-da}- the line was in ordiT for us to proceed, and a new enijine was ni readm W e iiail alreadw however, walked ^c 'J a ■' ,1 ! li '' ii I ■ J I iS i! 'i ; 'f i Tlirougli (':in;i(la with a Kodak. fi)r\vanl to ihi' sroiu' of the disasti-r. hnviiij^ arr.iiiLji'd with the coii- ihictor til Ik' pirkt'd up l)y tlic Iniin as it fame up. We tiied some pliotos. lUit the weather was very daik for that. Il was only now ihat we aseeitaiiied the cause ofour aecideiil. /.r., a thoxi- ofcatlle, which in the pitch) Mack ni};ht, were not percei\e(k A liij^ ox was killed, and two poor cows ^oi their k'l^s broken. Is il not wonder- lul liow animals sutler in silence? I'ancy our not iieariiiL; a sound from these ])oor 1 leasts under the train when we were standing; aliout . They were not discovered till the men set to uiirk. The next day as we passed, the poor cows were l\in{^' |iiteously on the liank. with such a scared look in their eyes, and makinf^ miserable attempts to rise. 'Ihe railway people (Iare of till.' Disrrl, lliesf. 'I'lic unslioni iR'lils, IjouikIIcss and hrautiful, 1-nv uliifh the speech of Mni^laml Iiun do nainc- 'I'lie Prairies. I lieliold ihem for the fii^l, And my liearl swells, while ihe dilated sight J 'HI ■'> I I. -I yi t »■' •# - IT 1 1' 1' II *^^ ifc, 120 Tlirtnigh (aiKula with a Kodak. 'I'likfs in ilic Liu'iifliii}; vii.sIik'j>s. 1.i> 1 ilicy lie III airy iiiKliiliilioiis, lar aua), .\> illiu' ocean, in his gentlest >,ul'1I, Stodil slill. uitli all his rouuilcd liillow^. lixcil And ni(itinnks-» Ini ever. Motionless? No — they are all unchained again. 'I'lic el olid S\\ ee I o ver with tluir shallow-,, and lienealli 'I'he ^urlace roils and lUicluates to ihv e\e. Man halli no iiarl in all llii> iiloriouh work Ma nd llial liuill tlu' lirniaiient hat 1 hea\e(i And snioollird llu'si.' \erdanl ^wrlls, and sown their slopes. Wit 1 lu'riiagt', 11 le iireat heavens Seem to >(oo|) down upon the x'l'iie in love, — A nearer \aull. anil of a lender hlue, Than thai whirh hends above the t'astern hills. In these plains the lii.MUi i'vci]-. no more, where once he ! t < If sni loi The earth with ihunderinL: steps - \el here I meet Hi s anci eiil iootprints stamped lieside the pool. Still this Lrreal solitude is ciuick with iTe M vriads ol insects, iraudv as tin ly lowei hev Hull er over, iieiitle (juadrupeds, lIIiI iird>. that scarce have learned the fear of man. A re here, and s idiim rei)tile.s of the iiround, Starllinu: lieaulitul. T le liee. A more adventurous colonist than man, With whom he comes across the eastern deeii, Iills tile savannas with his murmurin^s, And hides his sweets, as in the olden age, Within the Imllow oak. I listen lont: To 1 us domestic iium, and tliinl Hear The sound of tliat advancing multitude I 1) ii Kail u a\ .\( < kIcm t. I _' I Which MH>n >hiill till lhc>>L' iiiM.'il>. \ \<>\n ilic L;it)un(l C'oiucs u|i llir laiij^li uf cliildn n, ihr m.Ii \.ii.T ( )f in;ii(lcn>, ami llit- >\\ei't ainl '.okiiiii h\iiih Of Siililialli \\iir.shii)|n.'i>. Tlir Inu <>| luriU lii'inls w itli the luslhn^ nf ihr hra\ y L,naiii ( )\t.-r thr (laik-liii>u II ruiiii\\>. All al (Hicr A IrcsliLT wind su^'i-'ps li\, ami biraUs in\ dirain. And I am ill thi' u ildiriii.>>. atmir. . AlolU' ! \rs, I ihink ihal settlors on tin.: juaiiir imi>.t ivalisc what solitudr means in a wa\ which can scarccK 1)L' understood 1)\' those li\in,ii in mountainous rei^ions. Tlu' mountains and tree-clad craus seem to encircle and protect those who dwell amoii!. thei u wuh >o rial and li\ini:; a personality that these can never feel alone" in their com|)an\. Hut n'o to the prairie counlr\ and look around --you max see tlu- bright colours of hullerily and (lower, you may smile at the cunning looks of the little ral)l)it-like sort of creatures called " prairii- dogs," who rear themselves uj) on their hind legs and look at \nu and then '//c/'x//, f^n'sfo," the\- are oft": you may hear the rusliuiu through the air ol the Hock s ot wild leese oN'er head on their wa\' to their winter (iuarter>. hut of humai labitation xou will see hut scant signs. Vou r e\i' ma\ scan manv S([uare miles around, and Net xou ma\' scann'lx he able to detect an\' indication of the fact that the lord^ of this rich harvest land are hegiiuiing to enti Ul)011 th eir inheritance \Ct it i s so. And \w had 1 )aid Dur Western \isit during harvest-time we should haw J .7! M' tiM * < » I 1 22 Through Canada witli a Rochik. i.t 'I' i I It ■ li i it " n I' 5 ! i I i seen some such sights as nou see re|)resente(l iii the aeeonipanying i)ictures. When you are reacHng this, we shall he hearing rejoicing a(:(V)unts of tlie hounteousness of the harvest wliieh farmers in M.anitoi)a and tlie North- West ha\-e been ^'[i.therinu; in this war without anv mMg9iM^¥'''^^ ■''S;-1t,„ HBTgiff?i^S . / ra^hiiiiit of -A'orkcfs on tlh J''r(iiri(\ damage from the dreaded earlv frosts. And I sliali i)e trxing to grow wise as to the reasons whv the Manitol)an black mud. whii~h hes from two to four feet in depth on the surface of the soil, is so rich as to produce magni- ficent crops without manure. Once more, too, it will he impressed on us that tlie settlers who do hest are those 1 n a Rai I wav Accidciil. '-\5 he )an on igni- v\ lio acla|)t thcnischcs most lo thr nicthotU ot farniini found sucrcssful in the n cw countrv, or nistanrc. th( y must not ])loug"h deep as thev do at liome, but only al)()ut two inches, and then thev must put in a (~roj) at the hrst l)reaking, as tliis has hi'en found the best way of sul)duinL;- the sod, besides the advantage of yielding profit to the farmer the fust year, when his means are not generally i)lentiful. 'I'his sod is verv hard tt) break at first, but subsecjuent ploughings are easy. As we went along, we found one and another of our fellow-passengers ibout all tl th H'se things, anc 1 t o .i//i>-7t'.'/ix' ri-i;/o>/ iij sitiiiiiicr (hoia^'/its in Xori/i . \ii/i'>'i\n. regions where summer droughts i)revail, where rain falls hut rarely during the [)eriod while the cro],)s are growing and requiring moisture. If you look at the map, you will see that but a small part of this region is included in the Dominion of Canada, and this is a matter of no small importance to intending settlers. As we get further West, we begin to hear about other sources of prosperity besides wheat — we hear of the grass lands of Alberta, and its openings for large ranches for the breeding of horses ; we hear, too, of coal-fields of 1 n a Railway Accidciil. such extent that all j)ast fears as to tlu- fuel resources of ( 'anada have been set at rest. 'I'hen, too, there is the timber, and larL^e i)etroIeuni dej)osits. Hut 1 eannot en- large on these things in this |)ai)er. norwill I describe to you the young towns of this region : Regina, the capital of the 11. . / horse raii'./i mar ( 'ti/i;"ry. North-West, where too are the head-ciuarters of the smart red-uniformed ('anadian Mounted Police : Medicine- Hat, a little town in a cavity, surrounded by strongly indent- ed hills, where we had the pleasure of inspecting a charm- inglv-ai)])ointed hospital, erected through the efforts of Pf! I ■ .4* * ut travellers who pass through these countries only by the railway can know nothing of the lives and customs of the true type of Indian. For knowledge of these we must go to the hunter, the Hudson's Kay ('ompany trader, and the missionary, and we must hunt records of the ])ast, which already have supplied material for tales of thrilling adventure to the writers of boys' books. When the Europeans came to America, all this vast region, of which we have been speaking, wrjs only ]i In a Railway Accident. 129 inhabited by various tribes of Indians, who Hved almost entirely on the proceeds of their fishing and hunting. (Gradually the white men came to realise what a source of wealth existed in the herds of fur-covered animals which roamed over these endless plains and mountp'^^s, and the skins of which could be obtained very easily from the Indians for a few beads, ornaments, or better still, for muskets when they had learned how to use the.n, or for the spirits, which were to work such havoc among the native races. And in 1669 Prince Rupert formed a Company, which was endowed by King Charles II., with " all countries which lie within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, in w^hatever latitude they may be, so far as not possessed by other Christian States." The new Com- pany entered vigorously on its work, establishing central trading stations throughout their domain, formed of a few wooden huts, and surrounded by palisades or walls and well-barred gates. These were generally near rivers, and to these the savages brought their merchandise of skins, and feathers, and horns, at stated seasons of the year. They encamped before the fort, and a solemn transaction, of bartering and of affectionate speeches, took place, and on the results of this bartering the Company grew fabulously rich. A century later their continued success caused another Company to be formed, and many were the feuds which ensued, until the two decided to unite and to work together. Oh, the yarns that might be told of those ') H 1 tr, ' |i i '* . 'i » ■ -•1 ' ..i-t-' ■ ««!.■ : U \ m ■ n « . ■ "I mi n < I II II ll lin 130 Through (\inada with a Kodak. ill I! ' i i ' ,1 ;i 'A golden days of hunting, of the adventures and hair- breadth escapes, and in all the Red Man plays a con- spicuous part. Round his loyalty or his enmity centres many a tale. Those days are over now. In 1869 the Government took over the domains of the Hudson's Bay Company for ;!^3oo,ooo, and certain lands round the trading stations, and from that time the era of the Indian was over. They cannot stand before the forces of civilisation, and they are doomed to give way to those who have entered on their predestined work of cultivating the land and building cities, thus multiplying the population and replenishing the earth. Meanwhile, the missionaries have been busy. The authorities of the Hudson's Bay Company always encouraged their efforts, and did much for them by forbidding the use of spirits at their stations, and in later times the Government has endeavoured to exercise a paternal care over these perishing tribes, gathering them into reserves, trying to teach them agriculture, educating their children, granting gifts and pensions, and doing all in their power to pro- mote the success of the Missions. But of the heroic work of these missionaries, and of what they have been able to accomplish, we must tell you some- other time, if you will not tire of the subject. i;-l X. TMK KOCKV MOUNTAINS. A NJ) now we have come to the last part of the /^ trip through which I have endeavoured to act as your conductor. And if I have felt myself inefficient in that capacity during the earlier parts of our journey, still more do I feel the impossibility of doing justice t(') all the glories of the scenery through which we shall now pass. For even the prairies of the North West prove them- selves to be not so limitless as they appear at first to those traversing their vast extent day after day ; and one night, as we peep out of our berths behind the closed blinds of the car, we find ourselves standing still at the very foot of the Rockies. In the conflicting light of the stars and early dawn, we see ourselves guarded by three high purple peaks, known as the Three Sisters, and we feel ourselves once more safe at home in the bosom of the mountains. Soon the heavy engine which is to pant up the steep inclines in front of us comes, and hooks us on, and all day long, as we clamber the snow-covered Rockies,' and steam on slowly through the heart of the Selkirks' along the Columl)ia River, and the wild waters which sweep down the Kicking-Horse Pass, and pass under the shade of the crags of huge "Sir Donald," we rush about It I i lii 'Hi ..I.-' ) !i« ft * ) ■^l 'ft' I > ;! . i i 'i M 132 'I'hrough (\ina(la witli a Kodak. from side to side, and from end to end of our car, atlemj)ting, if not to ph()tograi)h or sketch, at least to imprint some memory of tlie magnificent panorama unrolling itself before our eyes. Hut all in vain ! There is such a thing as being surfeited with fine scenery, and it Approaching thi Rockies. is a transgression against nature to hurry, as we did through these glorious scenes. All that remains now is a remembrance of tov'ering snow-capped peaks rearing themselves up in all their strength above us, and stretches of mountains changing in the varying light of sun and cloud, from palest blues and greys to rich tones of yellow \. .>^4m .m •H.^ * ■'-'' ih ;| ' I 1 1 '■i* IJ4 Tliruugli Canada witli a Kodak. 'I 11 ■I: and red and i)iir[)lc, as vvc come nearer, and as the autumn foliage shows itself blending with the deei) browns and blueish-green colours of the waters foaming below. To a|)i)re(iate scenery such as this frecjuent halts should be made, and time should be allowed for the eye and mind to drink in and realise what is before them. Solitude too, and deep, unbroken stillness, are needed, if you would be in harmony with th^-se surroundings, if you would have nature lead you up irresistibly to nature's God, if you would be able from your heart to bow yourself down and say : - " These are Thy glorious works, J'arent of good. Almighty, Thine this universal frame, Thus wondrous fair I Thyself how wonchous then ! Unspeakable I who sits above these heavens Tt) us invisible, (jr dimly seen In these Thy lowest works, yet these Declare Thy goodness beyond thouglu And power divine." Another time we hope to be able to stop at various places on this route, for a day at any rate, and perhaps I shall thus be better fitted to be ;Our guide on some future occasion. The only halt we did make in these regions we enjoyed immensely. It was at Banff, where the Ciovernment are forming a National Park, twenty-six miles long by ten broad, and where the C.F.R. have put up a most comfortable hotel, 4000, feet above the sea, overlooking the Bow River. The hotel is about one and 'I'lic Rockv M ()iiiit;i i lis. •35 ;i half miles from the station. Our tniin arrived at the station about i a.m., and we shall not soon forgcl tin i)risk drive in the bright, frosty air, over snow-besprinkled grounds, amidst snow-covered mountains, with stars glimmering overliead. The hotel is a i)rettily-designed 1 1 1 ■ . -C^:/;,:....;v ' 1 1 1 ■••■ '■^'^■" rw^ mMBHk ' ■' ^ ^ ' r^jm . ■■ , ^■Bk. ^,^:v^^^H :.■ • £mmf^ -• I * . irfk^**"^.-' v ^.Mi^l^Hil^ f^^^^BSLt 'k.' /" -^^^-'g-iAi. 'SB^NK^t * ■ ■ ■ .i ■; ^ '■ ■fc^ - * /''roiii the wiiuiow of tit i' l\anff I loti'l. wooden building, capable of accommodating a hundred guests, and in the large entrance-hall a huge log-fire, crackling away on an open hearth, bids welcome to weary travellers from East and West, whatever hour of the night they may arrive. Well, we had what is termed in America "a lovely time" at Banff. The sun shone brillianUy, the air was exhilarating, and we made the 'I I / I •i; ji i, \ N 1 I '4 m ■■:!!' I' (I ! I. i: I It k ■* ^ The Rocky Mountains. 137 most of our one day. We walked, and we sketched, and we " kodaked" — we visited the hot sulphur springs, which are much resorted to by invalids, and which boil out of the ground at different degrees of temperature up to 90 or 92 degrees. Some of these look most tempting to the bather, the clear green-blue water bubbling into a large pool, enclosed by high rocks, and the rays of the sun glinting through the opening above. And in the afternoon Captain Harper, one of the Inspectors of the Mounted Police, came round with his break and four-in- hand, and took us for a drive round the Park, charioteer- ing us most skilfully up and down the steep roads, winding round Tunnel Mountain, and showing us many beautiful views. The time for departure came all too soon, and as we were standing near the station in the darkness, waiting for the arrival of the train, I heard a familiar Aberdeen- shire voice putting the question, " Do you remember " Titaboutie ? " " Remember Titaboutie ! " I should think we did I The voice belonged to a daughter of one of Lord Aberdeen's Tarland tenants, and we found that she and her sister had both come out to Canada. One was engaged at the Banff Sanatorium, the other was with her brother on one of Sir John Lister-Kaye's farms, and both said they liked the country. It was a touch of home where we had least expected it, but it was by no means a solitary experience. Wherever we went, it •I I I y 1: M *^«;;; D * 138 Through Canada with a Kodak. 'I ■' ii ■■ 1) i it ' n i II 1; It i> « !; seemed as if we met " oor ain folk," and these same folk seem generally to get "the guiding o't." That reflection should do more than fill our hearts with pride of old Scotland, it should bring home to those of us who arc parents the additional responsibility of being parents of children who belong to a race who seemed bound to rise to high position and influence wherever they may go, the world over. The thought that the destinies of countries far away may one day largely rest in our children's hands should fill us with a noble ambition for them, that they may be able to say with others who have gone before — " We cross the prairie as of old The pilgrims crossed the sea, To make the West, as they the East, The homestead of the free. '* We go to plant her common schools On distant prairie swells, And give the Sabbaths of the wilds The music of her bells. " Upbearing, like the ark of old, The Bible in our van, We go to test the truth of God, Against the foes of man." Undoubtedly Scotchmen have largely had to do with the making of Canada, and happily they have for the most part left their mark on her for good. We find their names much associated too with the making of this s }{> ill I »»• iv K < * I 140 'I'hroiigh ('anada with a Kodak. '* ■ ii ■ n 'I wonderful railway, by means of which all this marvellous scenery is witnessed. If we think of what was considered a good road in these parts before the railway came, and then when we travel by this iron road cut through, or cut out of the sides of, perpendicular cliffs, the workmen ■ 1 " "'" f T T ^ - "^ '^^'^^f^'^y^f&JSFjf^ i t^ ,^-«3 ) P^r^'^ ^^^M^0M^ '''*'' «-.■ ^'-S- M ^1, A Trestle Bridge. in some cases having had to be lowered by ropes from above in order to get at their work, we get some idea of the change which has been wrought. From side to side of rushing waters the train crosses on trestle bridges like that of which we give you an illustration, and finds its way along ledges of rock, twisting and turning in every The Kocky Mountains. 141 direction on the brink of the precipices below. On some parts of the road great wooden erections, called snow- sheds (having something of the character of tunnels), have had to be put up to protect the line from snow in winter. By this means the road is scarcely, if ever, blocked, even during heavy falls of snow. And thus, by one device and another, and by the exercise of constant, vigilant inspect- ion, this railway company, though their system covers such an extent of country, and has to face so many perilous places, can, up to the present time, thankfully record that they have only lost the life of one passenger, and that was in consequence of his standing on the steps of the car after being warned by the conductor not to do so. I could tell you much of the glimpses we caught of life in British Columbia, of the Indians spearing the salmon, of the Chinamen washing the sand for gold, of the villages of both Indians and Chinese, which are ([uite different to any other we have seen, and the curious burying-places, high up in the trees, which the Indians make for their dead But I prefer to wait until I have seen more of all this, and will then gladly give you a paper or two, exclusively on British Columbia, if you should wish it. I will only ask you on this occasion to come straight on to the cities of Vancouver and Victoria, and take a look of these before we part. At Vancouver we were most hospitably entertained by !< 'r \' J I III i .1 J ■* f X < I * I U A: i. ^ I I 142 Through Canada with a Kodak. I* n ■ i I. ; ,1 ■I it' i the Mayor, Mr Oppenheimer, and his wife, and, in addition to this, the Scotch and the Irish residents combined together to give us a most hearty and kindly reception one evening. In this way we heard much of ail that was doing in the place, and of its wonderful / aiicotn'C); growth since the disastrous fire which utterely annihilated it five years ago. Within three months after the fire four hundred houses had been erected, and the progress has since been so rapid that there is now a population of 13,000. This is the more remarkable when we reflect that the site on which the town stands was covered with .^M r 'I'he Rocky Mountains. '43 a dense forest, of enormous pines, such as we now see just outside the hmits of present habitations, 'I'heir great roots have to be removed, and the heavy wood and dead timber have to be cleared at an enormous expense before the land can be utilised, yet a great part of this forest is already ])arcelled out into building blocks, and is selling '/'/;<■ /ati- Mr C. (,'. Matkay. at a high price. And where the Douglas ])ine and the cedar flourished undisturbed hut a few years ago, hand- some streets are now formed, lighted with electric light, and supplied with electric tram-cars. Most of the build- ings are of wood, but there are a few^ ijrincijial streets whi>re only stone or brick buildings may be erected. (Ireat foresight is also being shown by the municipal I ■'•t I t I !« '1 II '' li "3 144 Through Canada with a Kodak. II ■'•ii I i " H h I. ,1 I' li l( ,1 I' *, ^\- I- *^ \ i :f.' ' authorities in matters of sanitation and drainage, unhke some new towns, where such matters have been left to chance ; and even in these early days a Public Park has been set aside, with a circuit of ten miles, called after the present Governor-General, the Stanley Park. We had the advantage of being shown some of the country round Vancouver by an old friend (Mr G. G. Mackay) whom I have often seen during my child- liood at my father's home in Inverness-shire. He came out here three years ago to see if this would be a good place for his sons, and liked it so much that he never went back, but sent for his family to join him. As he pointed out to us, the peninsula on which Vancouver is situated on either side of her beautiful harbour is bound to be built over, and to become exceedingly valuable, as the city develops under the increase of trade which must of necessity come, through its being the terminus of the C.P.R., and com- manding the shortest route to Japan, China, and India, by the new magnificent steam-ships which are now running. Just ten weeks ago, the advantage of this route over any other was demonstrated by the Japanese mail reaching Queenstown in twenty days from leaving Yokohama. You may imagine the pride of the Vancouver people at seeing " The Empress of Japan" sail proudly in after a nine day's voyage from Yokohama. The atmosphere of hope and faith in the future of their I !>• t( Th».' Rocky Mountains. »45 country make British ('olunibians a very delightful [)eo[)le. There is a spirit of enterprise in the air which, coupled to natural advantages, makes success a certainty. This belief in the future was rather amusingly illustrated by a huge sign-board which we found stuck into the ground, on the borders of a dense forest with no house in sight. The notice ran thus : — " There is a tide in the aftUirs of men, Which, taken at its flood, leads on to forliuu; ! This is the tide of your life ! ! Invest in the city of the future, Stcvrston, And become A MlLI.IONAIRK." I wonder whether we shall find the city of Steveston an accomplished fact this year ? We must tear ourselves away from Vancouver and its beautiful surroundings with regret, and embark in thc " Islander" for the five hours' crossing to Victoria, under Captain Hulden's care. See Mount Baker raising its head high above the sunset clouds, all in a golden glor), and seeming isolated far above all the rest of the common world below. And there, opposite, are the peaks of the famed Olympic Range, standing out a deep blue against the sky, only hiddei.i here and there by a light mist curl- ing about their sides. So we sail out of Vancouver, and the sunset fades into moonlight over a delightfully calm sea long before we reach V^ictoria, the beautiful capital of n, I V.|j 1 •k •I t I": II 146 Through Canada with a Kodak. '■1 ■i.j n '{ Biilish ("lolumbia. Is it indeed Victoria and Vancouver Island where we have arrived? Has not the "Islander" lost her way, and brought us by a short route back to l^^ngland, and landed at Torquay ? The resemblance has almost a touch of the comical in it — the same scents, the same sort of greenness all round, the same sort of ferns and foliage a. id surroundings, and on that day, at ///s Honour the Lieut, -Governor 0/ British Columbia. any rate, the same moist feeling in the air, developing later on into a steady downpour. Then English voices and faces abound, and English customs predominate so largely that the illusion would be complete if we were not recalled to our whereabouts by the presence of the Chinese pigtail everywhere. The residents of British Columbia would be hard put -. illitefUrS The Rocky Mountains. '47 to it if it were not for these same Chinese. Domestic servants are very difficult to get, and even when obtained often give themselves such airs that the mistresses are glad to return to the Chinaman, who will act as cook, housemaid, waiter, groom, and gardener, all in one, with- out giving any trouble. (lirls, however, who do come out, and are ready to work and do what they are told, get Adiitiral Ilothatn. very high wages. Labour generally is very dear. An ordinary labourer will get los. to 12s. a day, and mechan- ics and masons get as much as 16s. to 20s. a day. We much regretted that the steady rain prevented us from seeing all the beauties of the place. But the Governor of British Columbia, and Mrs Nelson, and Sir Joseph and Lady Trutch, were ready to help us to see aU I I .1 y.; ■I I' * ' % f H .119' D (| K iiiM if 148 Tlirough Canada with a Kodak. 1.1 ■I ^ ■ i I ' ' » !8 that could be seen. The (lovernor kindly drove us down to the magnificent harhour at ICscjuimault, three miles from Victoria, the headcjuarters of the North I'acific S(iuadr()n. Several warshijjs were riding at anchor, adding one more touch to the likeness to ICngland. The Admiral //..U.S. " llarx/i/fe." of the Fleet, Admiral Hotham, had been good enough to give us an invitation to tea on board the flagship, the "Warspite," commanded by Captain Hedworth Lambton, and so here, on the Pacific Ocean, I paid my first visit to a British war-ship. Everything on board looked spotless in its whiteness, and brightness, and 'I'hc Rocky Mountains. 149 h trinincss, and the Admiral's room, in the end hows of the ship, was hke a drawing-room for eosiness and comfort— a bright fire burning in a grate, and comfortable chairs and tables and ornaments, all looking as if we were ashore. Admiral Hotham gave a high character to British (Columbia ; he had l)een here for five months, and this was only the second wet day he had seen — climate, people, and all surroundings were amongst the pleas- antest he had known in all his nautical wanderings. It was sad that we should not have the ojjportunity of seeing the i)lace to full advantage, but our brief stay was full of enjoyments, including an evening at (lovernment House; and here, too, we met our friend, Professor Henry I )rummond, who had just arrived from Australia and Iai)an, and who now joined our party for the homeward trip. Here, then, amidst the roses and fragrant breezes of this favoured isle, I must leave you, with many regrets that our trip has come to an end. It is a hurried journey that we have taken, and we have had but glimpses of the inexhaustable resources of this great country. But if these little sketches have added somewhat to your knowledge of what Canada is, if it has increased your pride in her, if it has kindled a desire to do what may be in your j)ower to build up her fortunes, I shall feel they have not been written in vain. The high moral and religious character of her present populations, the wise and If I t: .1 'I I 1 • tt < I* I 15° Throug'i Canada with a Kodak. ■' I! ' ll '' ll ' I true foundations that they are laying for future develop- ment and prosperity, n".akes one long that those remaining in the old country should thoroughly realise how much reason they have to rejoice in our common kinship, and that those thinking of coming out to Canada to try their fortunes should come with a hearty desire to do their utmost for the land of their adoption. There has been some disappointment this year at the increase of the population during the last decade being only half a million. Still all admit that the settlers are of a good stamp, and this, after all, is of far more importance than mere numbers. Strong in her sense of her future, she can afford to wait. As we sail down her rivers and lakes, and traverse her prairies, and climb her mountains, the poet Whittier's words haunt us — I J " I hear the tread of pioneers, Of nations yet to be, The first low wash of waves where soon Shall roll a human sea." Our eyes may not see this consummation, but we may join our prayers to those of a Canadian poet, with whose words I will close: — "Canada ! Maple-land ! Land of great mountains ! Lakedand and riverdand I Land 'twixt the seas ! Grant us, God, hearts that ave large as our he»-itage, Spirits as free as the breeze ! The Rocky Mountains. ^5> "Grant us Thy fear, that we may walk in humility, — Fear that is rev'rent, not fear that is base: — (Irant to us rif^hteousness, wisdom, prosperity, I*eace — if unstained by disgrace. " (irant us Thy love, and the love of our country! Grant us Thy strength, for our strength's ii^. Thy name ; Shield us from danger, from every adversity, Shield us, O Father, from shame. " Last born of nations ! The offspring of freedom ! Heir to wide prairies, thick forests, red gold ! God grant us wisdom to value our birthright. Courage to guard what we own." I - i, i * J III' II n II * t Lon/ Aberdeen and Projessor 11. Dnniiviomi in the Railway Car. '* . i t* t ' M^ XI. A VISIT TO BRITISH COLUMBIA 1892 I if ; £JV ROUTE TO CiUISACHAN, B.C. THE very mention of the place is restful and delightful ! Never have we had such a holiday anywhere, and even now a mere allusion to " Guisachan, B.C.," IS sufficient to produce a soothing sensation in the minds of the trio of holiday-makers whose visit I want to describe. 13ut how to approach the subject in a calm and judicial spirit! There's the rub! Our feelings regarding the place are betrayed already, and how am I to convince you that I am a trustworthy reporter ? AVell, I must just let facts speak for themselves ; and now to begin at the very beginning ! How did we get there ? Perhaps some of you may remember in our travels last year, "Through Canada with t '"ft," t W^ f If : 154 Through Canada with a Kodak. ;i i* i i '• H a Kodak," a day's halt at fair Canadian " Banff," nestling under the shade of the mighty Rockies, and yearly attracting to its magnificent solitudes an increasing number of seekers after change, and rest, and health. The remembrance of our former experience led us to make this again a resting-place, and much might be said concerning the walks and drives, and exploring rambles taken, and the friendships made, during the ten days which we spent [)eacefully in the midst of the everlasting hills, enjoying the most exquisite sunshiny weather all the while. But on this occasion I must content myself by merely referring to it as the place from which we started for our journey to our Br'tish Columbian home. Early in the morning the West-bound train, bearing the traces of a prairie blizzard of hail and snow, through which it had passed, but which we had escaped, picked up our private car, whither we had repaired over night. All day long we had the delight of passing afresh through the scenes of beauty and grandeur which had so fascinated us on o' previous trip. A brilliant sun lighted up the snow-c; jd peaks, the shining glaciers, and the foaming torrent , xnd melted away at last in a fiery glow of glory. Evening found us arrived at Sicamous Junction, where we were to spend the night, and where we were to leave the main-line, and to wend our way southwards along a track in course of construction to our valley of the Okanagan. Sicamous, situated on the r (luisachan Farm. 155 lovely Shushwap Lake, noted for its fine fishing, already boasts of a good-sized hotel, although but few other dwellings are to be seen. We had arrived in time to travel by the first passenger train along the new line. As mentioned, it was only now in course of construction, and only half of the fifty miles between Sicamous and Vernon, our county town, were completed. The railway authorities, however, complied with Lord Aberdeen's request for a special train which he chartered for the occasion. As it happened, Vernon was to hold her first Agricultural Show on this very day ; and, in consec^uence of this, a number of other passengers desired conveyance, and they were glad to get the chance of a train instead of making the trip in one of the hand-cars used by the workmen on the railway. These are worked by means of a pump-like contrivance, and doubtless look very cheery little vehicles. Let me own that a difference of opinion exists amongst our own party as to the charms of riding on these hand-cars. Lord Aberdeen is enthusiastic in their praise, whereas his wife is inclined to prefer her own feet as a means of locomotion to whizzing through the air at the rate of 20 miles an hour, when a choice must be made, and our little ten-year-old daughter — who formed the third of our travelling party — inclined to the opinion of one parent or the other in this matter, according to circumstances. The first passenger train up the line was an event ll I I' It . % 11 K 1 .iir j> 'K •5^' Through Canada with a Kodak. n I I " I ■'■i I' ., ll I J ' .1 |! S I i H consisted of an engine and tender, our private car (lent us through the kindness of Mr Spencer, of the C.P.R.), a "caboose," which I think may be described as a glorified guard's van, and two luggage trucks, on the top of which travelled a medley of men, dogs, packages, trunks, agricultural machinery, and all sorts of etceteras. We were all much interested in our own appearance, and we all got out at every halting-place, and surveyed ourselves with mingled pride and curiosity. At one of these temporary stations where we stopped to water the engine, l)y means of a very primitive wooden contrivance, we found (juite an orchard and nursery-garden right alongside of the track. A\'e were not surprised that the owner, Mr Thomson, was a Scotchman, nor that his wife was an * 'Ironside" from the Haddo House estates, so accustomed had we become to such coincidences ; but these things being so, we were more than usually interested in hearing of what a good thing they were making of their 75 acres, what s})lendid fruit and vegetables could be produced in that district, and how they kept cows too, and poultry, getting 50 cents, (about 2s) per dozen eggs, and 50 cents, per spring chicken. A great part of our journey lay through very pretty country, skirting the Mara Lake, through picturesque mountain and wood scenery, after leaving Vernon, and then coming on the Spallumcheen River, along which a passenger steamer plies to P^nderby, half-way to Vernon. After Enderby our driver had to <; 5. ^ H I *iiH T58 Through Canada with a Kodak. ]i 1 ;l ■■ i \ take us cautiously, and often at foot's-jiace, and even in this way we bumped and plunged strangely over the half- finished line, on which large gangs of workmen, mostly (Chinese, were still working. But at last Vernon was reached witho i arv misiap. The new little town of wooden houses, hnt ;•.! ^ady possessing four hotels and a fifth large one in uurst 'f erection, was evidently the scene of unwonted bustle. Little groups of eager agri- culturists were discussing the prospects of the district, and their own individual fortunes ; here and there waggons were unloading, buggies being unyoked, horses being led about in ribbons and exhibition apparel. The Com- missioner of Lands and Works for the Province, the Hon. F. (j. Vernon, after whom the town was named, was expected to open the Exhibition, but he not appearing, Lord Aberdeen was taken possession of by the Chairman, Mr Lumby, and the Committee, and the well-known process of inspecting the show and of making and hearing speeches was gone through with apparent satisfaction to all concerned. I say the process was a well-known one, but never at home have we had the pleasure of seeing such fruit, such roots, such vegetables. I wish I could give you some idea of the enormous size of the monster cabbages, of the melons and golden pumpkins, some of the former weighing as much as 30 and 40 lbs. The apples made a splendid show, as did also the pears, cherries, and all smaller fruits. (luisachan P'arm Gui sac hail Farm. J 59 did well, for it carried off six first prizes and six seconds. -^yj ' ' V '^'^ Mr Lequ'uues little steamer ivliich took us up the Lake to Cuisa:hnn. Up to now but little attention has Vjeen devoted to fruit-growing, as this has been principally a stock-raising f ». i ' $ H I (■S-!-' i6o Through Canada with a Kodak. country, but the possihiMtics sliown by the few orchards \i 'ft i! i I it " I ■■ i ,1 t * i :" 'I :i. '/'ranAyi-rr/'iti,'' the luggage frovi the train to the steaiiter. ■"■«i ah-eady planted point to its being found to possess exceptional advantages for the pursuit of this industry. (iuisarhad Farm. ir.i Issess istry. While at the show we heard many desires t'X[)ressed that the large raiiche-owncrs in the neighbourhood c:ould be persuaded to break up some of their j)roi)erty into fruit- farms from 20 to 100 acres, and it is because of this that i-ord Aberdeen has now asked Mr (i. (1. Mackay, of Van- couver, to parcel out some of the property he has since ac(iuired near Vernon into portions suitable for fruit-grow- ing, and, at the same time, has arranged for the erection of a jam-factory. But more of this hereafter. Suffice it to say for the present, that great eagerness is being manifested on the subject by the inhabitants of tlie valley, and that a prosperous future is predicted for it by ex- perienced judges, who point out not only the ca[)abilities of production, but also the inexhaustible market existing in the North-West Provinces, where fruit cannot be grown to any advantage, and where there is a constantly growing demand for it. But we must not linger at Vernon, though we were treated there with great kindness, and made many new friends. Especially do we remember the courtesy of Mr I )ewdney, the (Government agent, whose sad death since then has evoked such sincere sorrow and deep sympathy with his wife and family. We made acquaintance, too, with the pioneer settler of these parts, Mr (iirouard, a French Canadian, who arrived here in 1858, having taken the best part of a year to travel hither from California, and with Mr Stuart, the enterprising young editor of the f 1 ' " JIO' n < II « I T, 1 6. 'riirouj^h C.'iiiada with a Kodak. M !r^ I't'^HOH Xra's, a capital local paper, which brings us ail the news of the district every week. Kut the day was wearing away, and my brother, who takes charge of (lui- sachan, was anxious that we should start on the linal /■'.It trance (,'nft' to (itt/xac/tun Farm. stage of our journey. So we left the showyard before the judging of the cattle and horses was coni- ])leted, but not before seeing a Ouisachan team given a first prize, and another pair of useful horses \ !! (luisacliaii l-'arni. 1 6 .) (wHicli Lord A. had just ,>urcha.scd, .,n ,ny hrutlKT » i 1 1 ' |.t H I /« ///(■ U'ooi/s o/Cnhachau, Il.C telling him that such a pair were needed or. t fU' *M \ 164 Through Canada with a Kodak. u r It ;i < ^1 t i 1 » farm) gain.ng the same honourable position in another c^lass. The day was a general holiday, and the men who work the steamboat which carries ])assengers up and do>vn the ( )kanagan Lake were away from work. In this emergency a neighbour of ours at Guisachan, Mr Lequime, under- took to take us home in his small steomboat. It was not intended exactly for passengers, but we had a very merry voyage, stowed away most of the time in a queer little cabin, father and daughter beguiling themselves and their companions by singing improvised Canadian railway songs to Scotch tunes. Presently the moon came out, and we had an opportunity of reconnoitring our Okana- gan Lake beauties by moonlight. The time soon sped away, and ere four hours had passed we found ourselves turning into a bay, and presently we and our baggage were deposited on a landing stage, whilst our crew were hieing back to Vernon for an all-night ball in honour of the .Show. They did not leave us, however, without securing a cart from a neighbour for our luggage, whilst we walked leisurely on to take possession of our new domain, only two miles distant. 'J 'he telegram we had sent announcing the exact day of our arrival liad never been received, and hence we had all the fun of appearing unexpectedly, and of a moonlight walk. Now, knowing that the beauty of a country is often over-ra<^ed, we had schooled ourselves not to expect much, so as not to be disappointed. Wc <. ^ 1 66 Through Canada with a Kodak. c ■i I imagined to ourselves, therefore, a flat plain with bare hills in the distance, a few scrubby trees and bushes here and there, and a house set down in the middle of the flat. Instead of which we found mountains looking more like the Inverness-shire mountains of my youth than any others we had seen in Canada, and about a mile from the land- ing-stage we came to a gate leading into a wood. "Oh, i i M ( I It ,*i ,. m;:;.. f ' "'■»> if only that were our gate !" murmured Lord Aberdeen. "But that's just what it is," answered Coutts, my brother, and we turned into a regular delightful wood, with big trees of two hundred feet high, through which the moon- light fell in silvery streaks across the new road which my brother and his assistant-manager, Mr Smith, had i)re- pared for us as a surprise. About half-a-mile brings us Guisachan Farm, ,67 tlirough the wood, and then, on emerging, we see our house a niv.r^er of a mile away, standing against a back- ground of purple hills, and commanding a charming view, with a peep of the lake from the verandali. ( )n approach- ing our habitation it looked very much deserted and locked up, but Coutts knocked away in confidence that someone would appear. Presently a cautious stei) was heard within, and the door was presently opened a chink, and we were demanded what \ - wanted. It was perhaps as well for us that Coutts was with us, for Mr Smith after- wards owned that he had been very susi)icious of us when he heard footsteps on the verandah, and he had loaded and brought his rifle with him behind the door, to re|)el us by force if need be, and the dogs "Caesar" and "Spot" were quite ready to join in the chase until they heard the voice of their master assuring them that we were friends. A warm reception — was il not ? But we all agreed that we could not have had a more delightful home-coming than that moonlight walk with all its surprises, and then the storming of the citadel was much more in keeping with our mood than finding everybody and everything in readiness. It took but a few minutes, however, to lii.;ht up the house, and to show how ship-shape everything had been made to re( jive us, and we barely had time to examine all the ingenuities and tastefulness of the two bachelors j : \ III •■ .. i \' t 1 » It , f II II 1 iH- i m ^; (, i68 Through Canada with a Kodak. ;» I* in the household arrangements, when it was announced that "Foo," the Chinese cook and servant-in-general, had not only been roused out of his slumbers, but had pre- pared a substantial supper wherewith to appease our hunger. And soon thereafter we were all in the land of dreams, dreaming of delights, past, present, and future. # II i : i < i 'I { Xll. li '. i "W'-: (lUISACIIAN FARM. . you come out for a bear hunt this afternoon ?'* 'hat waa the first communication which we received from the outer world the morning after our arrival at Guisachan. Two of our neighbours, hearing of our advent, had come up to say that a bear with her two cubs, had been seen coming down from the hills to search for the berries which were scarce last year higher up, and their present whereabouts being ascertain- ed, it was proposed that they should pay for their temer- ity with their lives. Perhaps you will think that such an expedition does not sound like a very proper b^cinning for a respectable farmer and his family to mak. his farm- ing life in British Columbia. But truth wil! .at, and the invitation was accepted and acted upon I fore we had ridden the marches or examined the stod A beautiful day it was, too, for a hunt or an expediti( .1 of any kind ! A quiet, gray morning, with light soft fleecy white clouds floating about the mountain tops, had brightened out into an afternoon full of sunshine, and we saw the surroundinjis >n '■*• m t k ■fi I II n , II H I I 170 Through Canada with a Kodak. of our new home under the most favourable auspices, as we trotted merrily over the fields, and through the woods, in aji old buggy, which had seen much work, drawn by wise-looking old horses, who were re[)uted to have taken part in many an escapade in more )outhful days. 'I'he scrub was reached where " Mrs Hruin " and her family I- < I I! 1 ) 1 » i ; iioi/i^ otitfo)- a />riir hunt. were in hiding, and the guns were posted on a hillside commanding a delightful view of the lake for sketching purposes, and our bear hunters, with their dogs, i)lunged about bravely round the outskirts of the thicket, v.hi'.li was too dense and prickly for anyone to penetrate, except Ciuisaclinii I'lirm. at llic risk of clothL-s and skin. There was niiicli halloo- ing, and barking of dogs, and beating witli sticks ; but no results, though every now and then a ghmpse of the l)rown fur was caught by one or other of the sportsmen, and the end of it all was that we were obliged to own that " Mrs Bruin " was cleverer than we, for all of a sudden she was sj)icd scuttling ui) a hill a (luarter-of-a- mile distant, having got away by a side where there was no gun posted, and having determined to leave her children in the lurch. vSo we had to satisfy ourselves with having seen her, and we wended our way home ii II 'iiti 172 Through ('anada with a Kodak. ;i 't under a glorious sunset sky, with hundreds of wild geese Hying to their feeding grounds, filling the air with their wild, peculiar cries. 1 will not tell you how many of them were brought down on this occasion ! l)ut I can tell ■ i 1. t ' i '^ ' il f 1 1' ■' /'oi'." our Ci'uHt'se coo/c. you wild goose is very good, and so are some of the other game birds which were provided for us by our sportsmen during our stay at ( luisachan. There are the wild duck, of which there are several varieties on the Okanagan Lake, (iLiisachaii I'arm. «7.] eese heir y of 1 tell and which bring to (Hir minds an exciting chase, and a brilliant long shot by my i)rother, sucii as sijortsmen love to think back on, and good retrieving on the |)artot'good dog " vSpot." Then there arc tht- " ruffed grouse," more like our pheasant to eat, and what is called the " i)rairie chicken," so named l)y early settlers, but which in reality II '///v. the fmiian /'<>v. with /t/s- '<'ti.'t, ,'>i»iy. ther nen ick, ike, is a species of grouse, and, in our opinion, the best game bird for the table which Canada possesses. And bear steak and chops are very good, too ; for one of those rash young bears was killed after all, and though he was very thin, poor little chap, yet we thought him a good sub- I* I •74 Tliroiigh Canada with a Kodak. u 'I t siitutc for venison, as served up by " Foo," our ("hinese rook. The mention of that dignitary reminds me that I have not yet intHKhiced you to our establishment, nor shown you over the house. Well, first, besides ourselves, our little girl, Marjorie, my brother Coutts, and Mr Smith, A'ts/i/i/icc .y<> I. r)rsrni .?>' y ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN HRGET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4S03 "^>^ >"*' ^ O^ •'i * i # i I* 176 'I'hrough Canada with a Kodak. on the scene of action. On being called back, and a humble suggestion made that he should wait a minute and go 7vM Lord A., instead of in front of him, he waxed fierce with wrath, and not only did he rush ahead and scatter the birds, but for a day or two afterwards retired WP '~ : '• ' 4 A 1 1 ■<\. ^i-.-' :. ■■'■ . 1 w L ; i e ^r^^ . ■f . . •f ■> ': **f!B^*»**" ' <♦ Resiifcthc Xo. 7. .I|!' ' into the sulks, varied with ebullitions of wrath over the unwarrantable interference with his liberties which had occurred. But, nevertheless, he was a good cook, as most of the Chinese are, and, when all is said, it is hard to see how the British Columbian folk could get on without the Chinese servants and labourers. You see 178 Through Canada with a Kodak. 'A f M ^1! III them everywhere, and they are ready to be combined cook, groom, housemaid, and gardener, and the general verdict is that, after all, they are better than girls who come out from the old country with all sorts of foolish notions in their heads as to what work they should or should not do. I regret to say that the general tone of the girls who have gone to British Columbia, and who get high wages (12, 15, and 20 dollars a month, and even more), has not been such as to make employers very anxious to repeat the experiment. Still, girls going West to the Pacific coast are certain to find good places, and if only they will be sensible, and ready to turn their hands to anything, and to do as they are bid, they will command first-rate wages and happy homes. In the meanwhile the Chinaman has still the predominance, and he possesses many advantages, though his wages are high. But I must come back to our (iuisachan establish- ment, and introduce you to Willy, an Indian boy, who arrived every morning on his white pony at full gallop, and who was initiated into the mysteries of blacking boots, and the greater mystery of picking up " Foo's " tins and empty bottles, feathers, and other debris^ so as to make the place look a bit tidy. Now, take a peep round the house, into the hall decorated with horns and heads of deer shot in ] )akota by my brother, and with various specimens of Indian work : and then see the pretty bright sitting-room, with Ki i8o Through Canada \Tith a Kodak. n ■I li '^ Ml •I skins of animals, shot in the same way, scattered about on the floor : pictures on the walls, and magazines and other evidences of the last mail on the table ; the dining- room at the back, to which communication is obtained from the kitchen across a passage open to the air, thus devised with the object of avoiding unnecessary kitchen ■ .'■:-:'i^S'^»f^.,-^^i ^"; ■'■■ ■' - j^ X ■«.. ': " * ' :.-x-'. ' ■ ■■ 'A\', 1,"-./ ' -■. ,-;% J4i M^^r-.^^' ■,''' ....^^■MIMMll ■''''' \- ..-.>■ ^.HCii^SI J^^^^^BP^^^^ff^WB li fl^^m m Startin§^/or a drive with " Charlie" attd " Pinio." smells, four big bed-rooms, two small ones, the office, and a broad verandah round three sides of the house, will complete the survey. It is the fourth mansion on the Guisachan estate, and we give you a sight of the four. The first as you see is a mere " shack," evidently put up for shelter on the owner's first arrival. The (iuisachan Farm. iSi second, though in ruins now, was doubtless a good enough house for the country in its day. I'he third is (juite a big house, with two good living rooms in it, and is now inhabited by the men. It looks quite smart, now .!//• Siiiiih e.vfu'NtiHg; the .ot " /« attendance describing have been literally drunk away and are now the I ill r i K » ) I: 184 Through Canada with a Kodak. ;» ' ■■I ' 'i )1 ■ u i I property of the license-holders. It is to be hoped that the new settlers coming into the valley will help to promote social gatherings and entertainments, which will meet the natural desire for gathering together in a cheery way, without sowing the seeds of intemperance and misery. Our neighbours were good enough to gather in our house twice during our stay, and thus welcomed the new- comers, and made us feel real Okanaganers. One of these gatherings was in the evening, and was just an old-fashioned Scotch "social," with tea and "bags" of eatables handed round, or rather, to be strictly accurate, we had the eatables without the bags. And a very pleasant evening we had, with songs, and music, and recitations, some in English and some in French, for the benefit of our French Roman Catholic neighbours, who represent the earlier settlers all round what is termed the " Okanagan Mission." The Mission was founded some 32 years ago for the Indians, by a devoted priest. Father Pendozy, of whose fame we heard much, and who only died a few months before our arrival. The Indians have mostly moved away to their reserve at the foot of the lake, but " the Mission " is now the head-quarters of a large district, and it is also the residence of a lay brotherhood who cultivate a farm and orchard. The two priests in residence. Father Marzial and Father de Vriendt, were both amongst our guests at our "social," U (luisachan Farm. •«5 and the latter gave us two songs, while the I*resl)yteria!i minister, Mr. Uingell, gave us a recitation. It was the first time that such a gathering had been held in the district, but from the success which attended it, we hope it will not be the last. Since then a magic-lantern has been established at (luisachan, and we hear that the first magic-lantern entertainment was well attended and much liked. The other gathering of which I spoke was a little Sunday afternoon service conducted by Lord A. That really came first, on our first Sunday, and was intended as a sort of formal taking possession and dedication of the house, and it was delightful to find all our neighbours, both Protestant and Roman Catholic, gathering together for the occasion. Some sort of gathering, such as this, on the Sunday afternoon or evening, has also become another institution at (iuisachan. But the mention of a service reminds me that I must tell you how active the Presbyterian Church in Canada is in providing services for colonies of new settlers. We were much struck with this throughout our trip. Even in quite small places where we halted, we found that provision was made for at least fortnightly services, and a missionary appointed, who is paid out of a Home Mission Fund, collected mainly by the zealous Dr. Robertson, until such time as the yoiing community can afford to pay for their own church and minister. Our friend, ii II I" ( i86 Through Canada with a Kodak. ;i M H ; i :t Mr (lordon of Banff, told us that experience justified this action. If settlers are allowed to get into a habit of not attending church, it will be generally much longer before they move in the matter themselves than when the means of grace have been placed within their reach from the beginning, and many opportunities for pro- moting religious influences, and for preventing evil will have been lost. In the Okanagan Valley there is a service now every Sunday ; at the upper end one Sunday, at the house of some good neighbours, the Postills, and at our end the next Sunday, at the Schoolhouse, which the Board have gladly lent for the purpose, although several of the members are Roman Catholics. At the present time the minister lives in Vernon, 35 miles away, and has to return there always in time for an evening service. But already there is more than a talk of two churches, one at either end of the valley, and a minister of our own. We shall never forget the picturesqueness of the scene which met our eye as we drove up to the Schoolhouse for the morning service. As usual the weather was gorgeous. The School is situated just at the corner of a wood of tall trees gay in their brilliant autumn colourings. Just inside this wood, and on its outskirts, were tied up saddle horses and buggies of all sizes and descriptions, and all around were standing picturesque groups of men and dogs awaiting the moment for going in. The brilliant sunshine pouring down on the scene if 188 Through Canada with a Kodak. n fi ii ' i: ^ , and glinting on the stems of the trees completed the t;harm and naturalness of the picture. No conven- tionality, no black coats, no formal solemnity. There were but three women in the congregation ; all the rest were men and lads who looked as if they knew how to work. Mr Langell quite adopted the same free and easy attitude, and spoke to his hearers as if he were one of them. I am so sorry that I cannot give you a picture of that scene outside the church, and I would have liked to put in the very forefront, the dearest and cheeriest of old ladies, in an old-fashioned black poke bonnet — Mrs Postill, who had driven over 16 miles or so with her son, and who told us she had been the first white woman in the valley, and that she would never forget all the kind- ness shown her in those old days by the rough miners and ranchers. But all this while I am telling you nothing about the farm itself. But where shall I begin ? Shall I describe to you the cattle which we took over with the farm, and which may be found anywhere within a 20 mile radius, or the cows who did not at all understand thai their mission in life was to provide milk for the human species ? At the outset some of these same cows resented the idea so fiercely that they had to be lassoed and thrown on their sides to be milked. When we were there they had somewhat reconciled themselves to the new order of Guisachan Farm. 189 things, but the milkers had still to go and search for them on horseback. Or shall I show you our stud of horses — the old team, and the new team, with the foal, Madge, who after the fashion of the country, accompanied her mother when out for work, and insisted always on running just in front and so impeding progress ; the old white pack horse, and canny Aleck, and pretty Harry from Dakota, and Pinto, and wise old thirty-year-old Charlie, who was none too old, however, to give our little girl many a delightful canter, and who was a much more reliable steed than the wild Indian pony which had been intended for her use, but who absolutely refused to bear the indignity of any mortal on its back, and who made good its escape to its free companions, bridled and saddled, more than once, and had to be re-captured. No; I do not think that I will detain you here, nor will I ask you to admire what is called the " barn " in Canadc, but what we should call the stable. I may confess that that building is not in the best of repair. Nor will I ask you to admire our pigs, among which we boast of some Berkshires; nor our white Leghorns, nor even will I linger to point out the fascinating antics of the beautiful but hated blue jays, the enemies of both farmer and gardener ; nor the pranks of the magpies, who often made the place lively with their chatterings and their quarrel- lings over some coveted bone or other choice scrap. ♦• I. f < II K I '* I 1 .1', 190 Through Canada with a Kodak. No, but I will ask you to take a passing look at the baby fir-trees which we brought out from the old (iui- sachan, in Inverncss-shire, to be planted at the new Ciuisachan. For " Guisachan " means " The Place of the Fir," and though there are many firs all round about on the mountains, there were none quite near the house ; and then I must call upon you to admire our cabbages, any one of which would require an ordinary wheelbarrow as a conveyance ; and then look at our glorious melons, and citrons, and cucumbers, and apples, even as we saw them so late as in October. Unfortunately our photo- graphs turned out failures, so you must take our word for it when we tell you that the melons often weigh 30 lbs. and more ; and also when we give you the following example of what an ordinary orchard produces in this country. Our next door neighbour has an orchard of about a third of an acre containing twenty-four apple trees, half of which are old trees and the others young, some as young as four years old. This gentleman and his wife have a family of four little boys, and take in lodgers besides, having sometimes in the summer as many as fourteen boarders. The i)roduce of the orchard forms a never-failing item in the menu, and one of the lodgers told us he could never have believed that apples could be cooked in so many different excellent ways till he went to lodge with Mrs Monson. But after the powers of the orchard had been thus taxed all through Ciuisachan Farm. 191 the fruit season, the owner was able to sell the residue of the produce for 250 dollars. And such apples ! Such facts, and the knowledge of the ever-increasing demand for fruit of all kinds in the North-West Provinces, will .V..S'. '■ /\ntnton " ivaitiiii;- to hear us aivay. doubtless cause the valley to become ere long a great fruit-producing centre. Two hundred acres of the (iui- sachan farm will be planted with various kinds of fruit- trees this year, and with the smaller kinds of fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, (^urrants, and ii K . II K I rf 192 Through Canada with a Kodak. '1 i t } i> ''V "%/ gooseberries in between. All these fruits, as well as the apples, pears, plums, melons, &c., flourish magnificently and with the best possible results. Peaches and grapes have also been tried, but we did not ourselves think the specimens wc saw were satisfactory. A number of |)urchasers have been taking up the lots subdivided for fruit farms by Mr G. G. Mackay, who set a good example in the neighbourhood by buying estates and dividing them into lots. Hops, wheat, barley, and all root crops yield abundantly, the wheat averaging 35 bushels an acre. Good land for fruit growing is now fetching from 30 to 60 dollars an acre, and is steadily rising in value. A land owner in the neighbourhood, owning a ranch which consists of some 4000 to 5000 acres of rough hill range land, and 500 acres of good rich agricultural land, was offered 36,000 dollars for the whole. " Not I," says he, " Not a farthing less will I take than 90,000 dollars for the property." "Then do you think the men fools who are selling their land for 60 dollars an acre ? " That is just what I do think them. I know the worth of that land, I tell you." The steady rise in price, which is going on so far, justifies this opinion. There was one difficulty in the way of the grower of small and perishable fruits, and that was the difficulty about their transit, for though the demand for fresh fruit is great, it of course cannot be carried any great distance without injury. This has now- been obviated by l.ord Aberdeen deciding to put up a (luisaclian Farm. Nvas '93 jam factory and cannery, at the head of the lake near Vernon, where all good fruit raised in tiie district can be received, and this announcement has been greeted with Cnhxi-f'vt- : great satisfiiction. 'I'he site of the factory lias been placed near \'ernon, both on account of the i)ro\iniity to the railway, and because it is near the Coldstream pro- II * I N ''^ I h 'I •%j 194 Through Canada with a Kodak. perty, which now belongs to Lord A., and part of which he has entrusted to Mr Mackay ^ for subdivision into the fruit farms which appear to be so much wanted, or fruit farms combined with grazing ground, for those who wish to raise cattle or keep dairy stock, for which there are good openings. We are often asked for advice as to what class of settlers are likely to succeed in this part of British Columbia. There are two classes whom the country will suit, (i) Men with a little capital, say not less than ;^5oo, who can buy 20 acres perhaps or more, have the means to plant it and cultivate it, put up a little frame house and be able to support themselves until the fruit begins to bear. It takes four or five years for apple trees to bear, but of course many of the other kinds of crops and fruits bear the second or even the first year. A fruit-grower who is keen about his trees will have each tree numbered and entered in a book, and will find delightful occupa- tion in carefully nurturing, pruning, and watching over each young nursling, while he may expect an abundant reward by-and-bye. There are some College graduates now taking up land in our district, some of whom came thinking of following the learned professions, but finding these all full, are very sensibly devoting themselves to ^ Since the above was written, we grieve to say that Mr G. (/. Mackay died suddenly (in January 1893), mwch regretted by his friends and neighbours. (luisachan Farm. •95 G. G. by his fruit-farming. (2) The second class of men who can succeed are those who will hire themselves out as labourers, and who will set themselves to save their high wages and meanwhile learn the ways of the country. We are hopeful that a very good class of settler is coming in amongst us, which will make the district a desirable one for those who seek to find a home where there will be good influences and a high tone. 1 must not forget to mention that the climate and its healthfulness are great attractions. We certainly found the climate a most perfect and health-giving one during our all too brief sojourn ; but my brother gave it the same character, as also did the old residents of the valley, who seem never to have found out the need for a doctor. The weather was a perfect " Indian summer," while we were there at the end of October. They have, we under- stand, about six weeks' hard winter with thermometer often considerably below zero, and two months of the summer are very hot, and the mosquitoes abound far more than we should like. But, taking it all round, the people seem wholly satisfied with their weather, ('ertain it is that we at least agree with Mr Mackay when he said, in a letter to the papers, that " if a man cannot be happy here he can be happy nowhere," — nor a woman either, say I. Now Lord A. says 1 have been writing a puff, and let my enthusiasm for our holiday-resort run away with me. ♦♦ I. It I II D I '1 . ^■i 1 h 196 Through Canada with a Kodak. but he has to admit that all that I have said is true — and he often wishes he were there. I am afraid I have occupied an altogether unwarrant- able amount of space in the Magazine this month, and even now, I shall not be able to include the pictures of the Coldstream Ranch in this month's issue. We felt very badly when we had to wend our way to the point of embarkation, and sadly say good-bye and sail up the Lake to Vernon, under charge of good Captain Shorts, who knows the country well, and who fell in with our humour by singing its praises. H i I XIII. Tin-: INDIANS OF CANADA. YOU saw us off from (luisachan a few weeks ago, and now this month I am afraid we must hid Good -hye to British Columbia, though 1 would gladly linger there with you awhile, and chatter on about our further ex- periences whilst in that charming province, and about all our plans for the future. But it will be better to wait awhile until I can tell you whether our customers at Vernon are satisfied with our dairy supplies from the Coldstream, and until I can explain to you the i)rocess by which we mean to try to turn out the best jams and preserves in the Dominion. When you get a chance of buying "Oka jam," mind you seize it, for nothing will ecjual it, I am sure ! ! Before we leave the subject, however, I must tell you about the Coldstream Ranch, which is the name of the large property which Lord Aberdeen has bought near Vernon. Not such a smart house as at Guisachan, but there is a good barn standing by the side of the house, I II I! < 3, 198 Through ('anadii with a Kodak. f I ■ 1 •■ I if ;i { '«, V , :%< and in the other pictures you will see some specimens of our ('oldstream horses and cattle, though some of the creatures have spoiled their likenesses by moving whilst being photographed. You cannot judge from these pictures of the beauty of the valley, which received the following description from a business gentleman who was sent lately to survey it : — " I wish you had been with me, and I think you would agree that it is not only one of the richest but one of the most beautiful valleys you ever saw." It receives its name from a stream which is always ice-cold even in our hottest weather. A considerable portion of the property runs along the shores of the lovely " Long Lake," pronounced by Lord Lome to be one of the most attractive sheets of water he had seen in America. We had a good view of the lake from a spot where we picnicked one day during an expedition from (iuisachan. This was at the other end of the lake from that on which the Coldstream is situated, and where residences are being erected on the shores, on " lots " which have already been parcelled off from the property. There is a curious feature about this lake : One can see stretching across the lake what looks like a bridge or dam. It goes in the district by the name of " the Railway," and is in reality the work of the skilful beaver architects and workers. And now will you travel down with us to the coast, and see the '' Empress of India " start from Vancouver rii :e a of :ilful 200 Through ('anada with a Kodak. f! ' I H 1 i *' * ' t • \ ■ < % m! :i K ' hound for Jai)an, China, and India? Slic is one of the three grand new ships l)uilt hy the Canadian I'aeifie Raihvay, whicli now make communication between China, |a|)an, Canada, and l^lngland so easy and swift, that it is [)()ssihle for letters from Japan to reach London in twenty days. We were very glad to have a chance of seeing over the comfortable internal arrangements of the ship, with a view of a possible expedition in the future to that wonderful country, to pick u}) gossip for you ; antl even our aversion to the sea did not prevent us from half-envying our friends when we saw them making their start, amidst the cheers of the N'ancouver public, who take vast interest in these boats, which are so greatly promoting the prosperity of their city and province. Amongst the living freight carried on this occasion was a crowd of Chinamen on the lower deck, who, having made their fortunes, were returning home to their own land. It creates a curious sensation to be brought face to face with this strange people between whom and ourselves there seems to be a gulf fixed — the two races having so little in common, and yet, at any rate in British Columbia, depending so largely on one anotlier. 'I'hey despise us, and look on us as heathens, and are unwilling to let their dead bodies be contaminated by resting in our soil, but endeavour to have them all back to China for interment. And we, or at least many of us, no less unjustly despise them, and gely ♦• II V I » . v '•i ' 1 '!« 11 ' i ^, { t . r » « « ' II .. n M li 'V:! |:': 202 Through Canada with a Kodak. call them " Heathen Chinee," having but scant respect for the great forces lying hidden in that vast " Celestial Empire," of whose internal affairs and workings we are comparatively so ignorant. But it was not of the Chinese that I was to talk in this paper, but of another race with whom we are far more immediately concerned, and concerning whom we have far more responsibility. As you pass through Canada from east to west, through her thick forests and over her wide prairies, and her mighty mountains, it is a pathetic sight to see what appear to be the ghosts of a people of other days, stealing, gaunt and mournful, and silent, to the towns and railway stations, and who, crouching around, watch the new race rising up and possessing this fair and goodly land over which f/iev held sovereign sway in the times now gone by. They are an unattractive sight, with their deeply-lined countenances, and promi- nent features, bedaubed often with paint, their black dishevelled hair, their array of ragged st[ualid blankets, or tattered garments, to which fragments of tawdry finery give the finishing touch to an aspect of distasteful wretchedness. Perchance, mingling with a reflection of national seif-complacency that the Canadian Covernment have on the whole dealt fairly and justly with these Indians within her borders, there comes also a scarcely a(^knowledged thought that it is as well for these poor folk that their race is yearly diminishing, and that by -and- ^-fr Indians of Canada. 20J. bye all traces of their existence will have vanished, save in museums. But can we thus lightly dismiss the fate and fortunes of a nation whom we have disinherited ? Think of their position a few years ago, ere the buffalo disai)peared before the advance of the white man. 'I'hey were wealthy in those days, wealthy after the only fashion about which they cared aught. The vast plains were their undisputed hunting-ground, and the unnumbered herds of buffaloes provided for all their needs. Food, for they lived chiefly on buffalo, eating son^etimes as much as eight or ten lbs. a day; houses, for the tanned skins made comfortable and durable tents, or " tee-pees," or " lodges " as they call them ; clot/iwg, for from them they obtained their robes and other articles of clothing. They had bands of horses and ponies to transport them and their goods to a fresh location, whensoever it pleased them to move, and to carry them to the chase of the wild beasts and birds, in which they so excelled. What more did they need ? Now they are confined to certain portions of the country alloted to them by (lovernment, called " Indian reserves " ; they are [)oor, for the buffalo has mysteriously disappeared within the last twelve or fifteen years, and they have to depend in large measure on the charity of (iovernment, which gives them rations of food to save them from starvation ; the wild animals and birds which they II 204 Through Canada with a Kodak. I H.J i'i :'!' I ! t i 1 MS I*' h If ^ '! loved to pursue, which supplied them with food and ornaments, and for which they commanded a ready sale, are fast diminishing ; they are suffering from diseases and vices introduced by the " pale-faces " ; and their ideas of life and civilisation so totally differ from those of their conquerors that it is with the utmost difficulty they can set themselves to win their livelihood by what appears to them the dull and distasteful work of agriculture. Small wonder that the red man looks sad, and listless, and hopeless, as he looks out on the altered conditions of life for his race, and as he meditates on the future of his country, which seems to have so little place for him unless he alters all his habits and tastes ! An earnest effort is being made, both by missionaries and by the Government, to help him to accommodate himself to the new condi- tions, but it is uphill work. But there is often an instinctive want of trust between the two races, and a lack of under- standing of one another. Wise men of science, and sym])athetic and large-minded missionaries, are both now- searching into the customs, habits, and traditions of the different triV)es of North American Indians, and with a wider knowledge of these there will come fuller power to enter into their ideas and conceptions, to gain their confidence, and consequently their co-operation in the work of their own elevation and civilisation. Our ideas of the Red Indian are largely the outcome of the representation of him in the stirring tales of daring ! < Indians of Canada. 205 adventure and cruel ferocity, which are considered the fittest hterature for boys---but we go no further. I would like to interest you in another way in these children of the plain and forest, but my knowledge is so- fragmentary and inadequate that I can only give you glimpses into that little understood world of the Indian. As you know, there are many different tribes, from those of the East, who received the white men so hospitably on their first appearance, but who afterwards became so dreaded, to those in the extreme West in British Columbia, who appear to be so distinct in character and customs from those east of the Rocky Mountains that I will defer all mention of them until another paper. Amongst all these different tribes the chief religion appear.'f to consist in a belief of spirits, spirits which inhabit earth, air, water, as also animals, and even inanimate thing.s' and whose protection must be sought, and whose ven- geance avoided. I'hey do not, however, like other heathen people, make images or idols of these spirits, and their chief reverence is given to the sun and moon,' and to one Chief Spirit, who re-appears in the legends of various tribes under different names, and in many characters. Let me give you here one or two examples of their religious traditions, as taken down from their own lips by the Rev. E. W^ilson, and reported by him to the British Association : — n , II K I if A 206 Through Canada with a Kodak. I i! " i ■If: 1 1^ 1 Hi h •V The Creation. — "It had lieen long time night. Napi, the Ancient, saici, * Let it be day,' and it Ijecame day. Napi made the sun, and told it to travel from east to west. Every night it sinks into the earth, and it comes out of the earth again the next morn- ing. Napi is very old every winter, but he 1)ecomes young every spring. He has travelled all a'ong the Rocky Mountains, and there are various marks on the mountains which remain as relics of his presence. Napi said, 'We will be two people.' He took out the lower rib from his right side, and he said, ' It shall bea woman,' and he let it go, and he looked on it, and he saw a woman. He then took a rib from the left side, and said, ' Let it be a boy,' and it was a boy. Napi also made a numl^er of men with earth. Napi and the men went one way, the woman went another way. And the woman made women of earth, in the same way as Napi had made men. "At Morley, opposite the Rev, Mr Macdougall's house, and down the river," said Big IMume, "there is a little stream; they call it the men's kraal or enclosure ; on one side of the stream is a cut bank and big stones ; this was the men's boundary, beyond which they were not to pass. They used to hunt buffalo, and drive them over the cut bank ; they had plenty of meat ; they had no need to follow the buffaloes ; they hid themselves behind the big stones and uttered a low cry ; this guided the buffalo to the cut l^ank. and when they were over the bank they shot them with their stone arrows and ate the meat. " One day Napi went out on a long journey. He got as far as High River. There he saw lots of women together, with the woman made from his rib, who acted as their chief. There were no men a^id no boys there. There were a great number of teepees. Napi was alone. He told the women, ' I have come from the men.' The woman chief said to him, ' CIo home ; bring all your men ; stand them all on the top of this stone ridge ; our women shall then Tl- Indians of Canada. 207 go up one by one, and each take a man for a husband.' When they were all up there, the chief woman went up first and laid hold on Napi to take him, but Napi drew back ; the chief woman had juil on an old and torn l)lanket, and had rubbed all the painl off her face, and had no ornaments on her. Napi did not like her appear- ance, and so he rejected her addresses. lie did not know that she was the chief woman. She then w(;nt back to the women, and, pointing to Napi, said, 'Don't any of you lake him.' She then dressed herself in her best, and painted her face, and put on her ornaments, and went and chose another man. All the women did the same. Thus all the men had wives, and Najii was left standing alone. The chief woman then cried aloud, ' Let him stand there alone like a pine tree.' Napi then began breaking away the stony ridge with his heel, till there was only very little of it left. The woman then shouted, ' Be a pine tree.' And the pine tree stands there now alongside the big stones, and they still call it the women's kraal. Napi's flesh is in the pine tree, Imt his spirit still wanders through the earth. "The boy made from Napi's left rib fell sick. The woman took a stone and threw it in the water, and she said, ' If the stone swims the boy will live,' but the stone sank and the boy died ; and so all people die now. If the stone had floated, all people would have lived." How Horses Oru;inatp:i). — "Along time ago there were no horses. There were only dogs. They used only stone for their arrows. They were fighting with people in the Rocky Mountains. Those people were Snake Indians. They took a Blackfoot woman away south. There were a great number of people down there, and they tied the woman's feet, and tied her hands behind her, and a cord round her waist, and picketed her to a stake, near the big salt water. And tliey cried across the lake, 'See, here is your wife !' Then they all retreated and left her. These Big Lake pecjple did -' V 11 ') IIV I I 208 Through Canada with a Kodak. '■i \ hi: ■* . t il Ml' II II r not sec her at all ; but the waters rose and covered her ; and when the waters abated, there was no woman there, but there were lots of horses. The Snake Indians caught these horses, and that is how horses began." FUTl'RK LiKK. — "I asked ' Hig Plume' what did he think be- came of the soul after death? lie replied that the souls of all Hlack- feet Indians go to the Sandhills, north of the Cyprus hills (this would be to the east of the Blackfeet country). What proof had he of that ? I asked. ' At a distance,' said the chief, ' we can see them hunting buft'alo, and we can hear them talking and praying, and inviting one another to their feasts. In the summer we often go there, and we see the trails of the sjiirits, and the places where they have been camping. I have been there myself, and have seen them, and heard them beating their drums. We can see them in the dis- tance, but when we get near to them they vanish. I cannot say whether or not they see the Clreat Spirit. I believe they will live for ever. All the Blackfeet believe this ; also the Sarcees, Stonies, Atsinas, and Crees. The Crees, after deatn, will go to the Sand- hills further north. There will still be fighting between the Crees and the Blackfeet in the spiritual world. Dogs and horses go to the Sandhills too ; also the spirits of the dead buffaloes. We hand these traditions down to our children. We point out to our children various places where Napi slept, or walked, or hunted, and thus our child n's minds become impressed.'" \'ou have probably heard of the Indians' medicine-ba^^s^ and the name suggests that medicines are carried about for cases of emergency, but their ideas of medicine and ours are two very different affairs. When a young man grows up he has to find out which of the many spirits is to be his special protector, and then he has to carry the syml)ol Indians of Canada. 209 of this spirit always on his person as a sort of charm. (Front a pfioiojrap/! by />< ornc «5-= May.) And here is an account, by Mr Hale, of the way they find theii "medicine" : — o It 210 Throuj^h Canada with a Kodak. n I- „ !-M\ i I I I " Young men j;») up on lo a hill and cryan 4 » ■ I t 1? It 'J I I I Moki; AiJoUT Tin: Indians and thimk customs. Now let me show you a {)icture of the fine old Indian ('hief, "Oowfoot," whose [)hysiognoniy and expression will tell you of the strength of character and mind that lay behind. He was one of the far-seeing Indians who understood that it was for the ultimate good of the country that the white men should take possession of the country, that railways should traverse its length and breadth, though bringing destruction to the Red Men's hunting-grounds, and that the land should be brought under the dominion of the plough. He saw that the only hope for the Indian was to accommodate himself to the new order of things, and to co-operate with the l^^nglishmen in spreading education, and civilisation, and the art of agriculture. He was of great service to the ( lovernment when the great railway across the ('ontinent was planned, and in many other ways managed to bring his people to help, and not to hinder. In recognition of these services he was given a pass (which you see him wearing in the picture) not only over the (M\R., but «f •■ • •*••••• T ^ring of m Ihim but 11 H I " Cri-TvA'oi," Ch:cfoffhc Blac'tf^ct. 214 I'hrougli CaiKula with a K<)al cities, ^^gfej^H^^ ^'^i'k^I vnms shown the . / colli'ciion o/ci'u/'f and n>liip<, :i'/iic/i tlie hniinus thrmv loit/i schools, and colleges, manufactories, and all m the great centres of into everything with mar- telligence, taking in mat- iitanr/. otts dexterity. and institutions, and that was being done in population. He entered vellous interest and in- ters which one would Indians of ( ana da. I ^ have thought totally l)cyond tlic comprehension of a man who had Hved his life on the |)rairie. And wlun he came back to his (juarters near Calgary, he gathered together his tribe, and is said to have addressed them con- tinuously for three days, de- scribing all the marvels that he had seen, picturing the progress of the world in terms of glowing elocjuence, and how the Indians, too, might take their share in the general pro- sperity if they were wise in time, and would learn all that v, ' •'. was good from the white men, without following their vices. But Crowfoot, who died a few years back, was bv no means a solitary instance of this ])Ower of oratory. Travellers and mission- aries tell us that the art of swaying autliences by public speaking is very often met with, and that the speeches of the Indian orators are full of pathos and figurative beauty when heard by those who '-^^;?-ir:^::^'y;''r:::i'f understand the language suffi- '^"'■"" ''"' '""' "^ ''' ''""'■ ciently to appreciate the force of the exi)ressi()ns used. Mr John Maclean, who has laboured for many years I' It H 1 2i6 Through Canada with a Kodak. 11; i . ■ ! ■ • . h I'. ^r:^ amongst the Indians in Al- berta, gives us various illustra- tions of such speeches in his interesting book on "The In- dianL and their Manners and Customs." We may take as an example part of a speech by "Tecumseh," who, at the beginning of this century, helped the British so heroic- ally in the war against the Americans. When ( ieneral Brock, in command of the British troops, was preparing to retreat into Canada, on hearing of the defeat of our fleet on Lake Erie, he con- cealed the news of the defeat from Tecumseh, fearing that it would have a bad effect on his Indian alMes. Tecumseh, who had but a poor opinion of Brock, addressed him thus at a Council : — " Father, listen ! Our fleet has gone out ; we know they have fought ; we have heard >-i /'<■// of fentlicrs ivoyii in time o/'ivar and at it>r- vionin! (iniucg. Indians of Canada. 217 cat lat on seh, lion 1US eel hey the threat guns; luil \vc know nothing of what has happened to our fiiiher with the one arm (Captain Barclay). Our ships have gone i.>',-.- ^^.'.»: ^V^/rJ for his red child- ■' '' J'ii/>oost" s^icnt/uui on its cradle /-oind. Tlte 'tvoodai pi-oti'Ction nt the top is arrafv^ed so titat a cloth may ren. If you have he th>oul,i; II " /''vrrr " af thi- s-ii>i'. orr.r ^- .lAn ). 220 Through Canada with a Kodak. 111 '•». fi ;i 1" \ i Hi il' ■«lw' dance is a solemn thing, a tribute that we ;////j'/ yield at this time of year to the dreat Spirit." I think these words will make us recall to mind professing Christians who have much in common with these Indians whom they would look on as mere savages. But to return to the sun-dance. On passing through an Indian reserve, near Calgary, we saw a large number of trunks of trees leaning aganist one central pole, forming a circle, and surmounted with what appeared a collection of rubbish, sticks, and feathers, and such like. Our guide explained to us that this is where the sun-dance takes place, though last year, owing to the persuasions of the missionaries, the ceremony did not take place, and the authorities are anxious to do all in their power to prevent its recurrence with its attendant cruel practices. We give you a picture of what a young man who desires to be made a " brave " has to go through. He first goes up to the pole in the centre, and, clasping his arms around it, prays for strength to go through the ordeal, for which he is afterwards prepared. This preparation con- sists in first painting the whole body a dead white, and then making a slit below two muscles in the chest, under- neath which a wedge of wood is introduced. The wedge is then attached by cords to the top of the pole, and the candidate for the honours of a brave has to sway himself backwards and forwards and jerk himself until the wedge is torn out of his flesh by force. He must not utter a 222 'I'hrough Canada with a Kodak '1 !'i 'il; ' t groan or a cry during the process, but is given a whistle wherewith he may divert himself, and /le is considered the bravest who laughs and jokes most during his agony, which often lasts for hours. When the ghastly object is at last accomplished, the newly-made brave is taken charge of, often in a fainting condition, by the medicine- men, who have various processes of their own whereby to heal the cruel wounds. The bravery which is re(iuired to go through such tortures clearly shows what backbone there is in the Indian character, if it can only be made use of for the service of the (iod of love, and the better- ment of their race, instead of for such purposes as the deliberate maiming and wounding of themselves in order to please the imaginary requirements of their Great Spirit. Many other stories could be told of the prairie tribes, which would excite our sympathy ; but we must pass on in our next paper to the coast Indians, and their customs and arts, and home manufactures. XV. MANNERS AND TRADITIONS OF THE INDIANS OK THE COAST AND ISLANDS. AXTHEN we were in Vancouver last year we had the y y opportunity of gathering together a small collec- tion of Indian curios from Mr Landsberg, of \'ictoria >vho has made a practice of collecting them for many years, and who intended having a great show of them at the Chicago " World's Fair." He gave us many interest- ing details regarding the use of the articles, which are now displayed on the walls of one of the corridors at Haddo House-and some of which are now reproduced ior your benefit from drawings made by Mr | (Irant Hut besides the information there obtained, I have also to thank the authorities of the Smithsonian Institute at \Vashington, where a wonderful collection of Indian curiosities is to be seen, for their readiness to allow me to Hiake use of both printed matter and illustrations to be found in a valuable publication of theirs, written bv Lieutenant Niblack, on the Coast Indians. These are my authorities ; and now, what shall I pick out from these stores, to hand on to you ? 224 Through Canada with a Kodak. You must remember, to begin with, that the Indians i! ill f! i il •V ' Vi^M^^ARJ^^^I^H 1 i WA\\ 1 ^^^9 1'' ill ,.%«^^|^^^ i ii .*■ ^ ^S^HBi^SSBnflM ''^9 ^^ Shi i m w S'i 1 H 1 1 M Ni 15 2^ ^"5: If to of British Columbia, and especially those living on the Manners and Traditions of Indians. the coast regions, on the adjacent islands and to the north in the territory of Alaska, are alto- gether different in manners and customs to those races of the* interior about whom I have tried to tell you a little in |)revious papers. 'I'heir outward appearance is differ- ent too- they are of shorter height, the cheek-bones are less prominent, the nose is straighter, and the face rounder and fuller, and many hold them to be of Mon- golian origin, and that they must have crossed over from Asia by the Behring Straits in times gone by. Certam it is that they had attained § no small measure of civilisation and « a very complex tribal organisation ;5 before the white men arrived. I '^ will not trouble you with the names ^ of the different tribes, nor as to -^ which of them the special customs ^ to which I shall refer belong ; some | are common to all, and some are the 5 special property of the Salish, or | the Flingit, or the Haida, as the "^ case may be. t Now, first I will ask you to look at the picture of part of an Indian II 226 Througli (.-anadii with a Kodak. '1 f il ■111 I* 'I *(l, 'Mi . II HA village in the Prince of Wales's Island (page 224), What do you think the carved columns in front of each \^ house re[)resent ? " Idols," of course you will say. Nothing of the sort. These columns are carve'l in devices which are to them what crests are to us, and signify that the persons using that device belong to the same clan, or as they call it, the same "totem." The principal totems are the Crow, the Raven, the Bear, the Beaver, the Kagle, the Wolf, and the Whale. Representa- tions of these animals, or of other objects which are used as the signs of totem, are carved on these totem columns out- side the house, on mortuary and com- memorative columns, on the articles for household and ceremonial use, and are tatooed on the skins. Look at the model of one of these columns which we have- in our collection. At the top is Hoots^ the brown bear, who is the totem of the head of the household who erected it. Hoots is wearing one of the grass hats, made by Indians, but the signifi- iress. Hxfilained on p. 237. (.'hi't'Ts ceremonial /lecui-iiri'ss. ^c a.\,' v. • 1 ■^ cance of this here is unknown. iff Manners and Traditions of Indians. 227 teni, out- roni- s for d are lodel have /oots, f the :d it. hats, n i fl- own,. TivV/f,'-, the heaver, the totem of the wife and eliiidren, is at the '.>ottoni of the column, and between tlie two is rei)resented ZiV/ or )'<'//, the great Raven, the benefactor of mankind, about whom many wonderful stories are related. His coat of feathers could be put off or on at Mask used for cerciuonial purposfs and/oriiiiyly/or ivar. 7'/te /art's nrcn'i' by pulling a string: "^ he face is paiydcd with toteinic designs. pleasure, and he had the power of transforming^ himself into any form he choose to assume. He existed before his birth, will never grow old, and cannot die ; and endless are the adventures told of his peopling the world, and providing men with fire, fresh water, fish, game, cVc, I II 228 Through (aiiiula with a Kodak. r -•I ; I ' It I I I !,!',■ ' ^md how he fought for them against their great enemy, Sefi/H-ki-jas/i. Often some of these stories are illustrated on these columns, and thus they become representations, not only of the totemic relations of the household, but also of the general legends or folk-lore believed in by the tribe. But they are in no sense idols, though they represent objects which the Indian regards with superstitious respect ; he believes that there exists between him and his totem an intimate and alto- gether special relation, which he must respect if he is to receive protectioii. If his totem is an animal, then he will not kill any of its class, and if it be a plant he will not cut it or gather it. Those belonging to the same totem may not marry, and thus it comes about that the wife and her children belong to a different totem to that of the head of the household. In the northern coast tribes, too, rank and wealth and pro- in cere- ' ' t- aJ:^'/!v ^'sLI'^n P^^^ descend through the mother, r^,.;:;SM/;;:v;;:;; according to the system known as 'f^-^'^^»^' u matriarchy " or " mother-rule," a system which has often been found to exist amongst primitive races ; Vjut in southern tribes of British 'Olumbia this has given place to "father-rule," or Krttt/,- usai i Manners and I'raditions of Indians. 227 |)ositi()n and inheritance l)eing obtained through tlie father. Hut if a father has special reasons for wishing his child to belong to his own totem, as, for instance, if he is a chief, and desires his son to succeed him, he must transfer him to his own totem by handing him over to his or Medicinc-tiian's apron, 'lotciii o/eat^h' tvorkcd i)i red clot li. aiiii bchnv three rmvs of pvjtin henks to rattle as rcearer fz/orrs. own sister, who will figuratively adopt him and tlius change his totem. The ties which bind the members of the same /oh'w or phratry (an organisation in which several totems unite together in some tribes) remind us much of the ties Through Canada with a Kodak. 1:1 ■ ' f' 4 h M iilij i I I existing between the members of our old Scottish clans. If an Indian arrives at a strange village, where he has reason to fear hostility, he will at once look out for the house whose carved post indicates that its master belongs to his totem. And //lerc he is sure in any ^.se to receive protccUion and to be received with honour. If, again, a member of a tribe is captured and carried off by another tribe, it is the duty of those of his own totem in the enemy's tribe to offer to redeem him and to send him back to his own tribe, when his own relatives are ex- pected to pay back the redeemer whatever he may have expended. The relationships and customs which spring out of these totemic organisations are endless, and full of interest, and are no'.v receiving the investigation from men of science that they deserve. It is well that these investigations should have been set on foot, for the old ways and customs and traditions are fast disappearing, and it is only the older Indians who can give reliable information on the subject, and they are often very reticent and unwilling to give up their knowledge to strangers. Then, again, the occasions on which the ceremonial dances and feasts, or "pot-latches," can be witnessed are becoming few and far between, owing to the discourage- ment gi\en to them by the (lovernment, who are anxious to prevent the Indians from ruining themselves and i i . Manners and 'I'raditions of Indians. 231 )iiial Id are |rage- dous and scjuandering their sul)stance at these feasts, as they were wont to do. We had an opportunity, however, of seeing a whole village start forth to one of these "pot-latches,"' and a curious sight it was. The whole population came Chicj's coat, made of l-dli\ gaud'- iing f^dffy dai^t;-cr s/wat/i, and pistol pouch. L'scd Joy ceremonial occaaions 234 Throuj^h C'anada with a Kodak. 4 h, Hi * •j: i :i>r h 'i'; ^k H tjf . ■% yt\ < ceive the best presents, and the poor ones the shabby ones, such as a worn-out blanket or a strip of cloth. Previous to the ceremony the host gathers together his near relations, and, with their aid, makes out a list of the j)resents to be given to each individual. On the h'o7u and nrrort's and bKckskin actually used by an old chic/. \ ' guests asseml)ling, the goods are all displayed about the walls or on poles, or piled up on the floor. The host stanc' . or sits in ceremonial attire, and presides over the affairs with a ceremonial baton in hand. The herald blows a whistle, extols the position and the virtues of the i't : 4 bby oth. ther it of the P Manners and 'I'raditions of Indians. 35 the Ihost the trald the t'ttrr'af -AHhu/rii l>07vl of iHautifxil shape , aiul co-'crcii :oith toil' ink designs. giver of the feast, calls out a name and the })resent whieh that person is to receive. The host nods his head solemnly, thumps on the floor with his baton, and an attendant takes the article and deposits it be- fore the recipi- ent. Durinuthe intervals, or at the end, danc- ing, feasting, and singing are indulged in, and the ceremony may at times prolong itself to several days. It need scarcely be added that the receiving of such })resents involves a suitable return on some future occasion. It has been mentioned that dantMng takes place at the entertainments I have described, and many of the Indian curiosities which we have brought home are ..v.//;^,/M;5^'.5^S;^S:'>^"; ment used for ceremonial ^'or n'c'a'T-i lit;- fill ipdsiw. , . ,, i ii dancmg on these and other festive occasions. \Ve must not think of Indian dancing being such as that to which we are accus- tomed, in which the whole company takes part ; but 236 Through Canada with a Kodak. 1:1 n \\ I ( 1; W- i Hi : : ' 1; 'V '. it is rather a show performance by the few, the per- formers being both men and women, whilst others sing or play the drum, shake the rattles, blow the whistles, and thump on the ground with batons to mark the time, and the spectators sit round and look on, and signify applause by grunts and cries of laughter. Niblack classifies three classes of dance— (i) the stately, digni- fied, and formal; (2) the wild, passionate, and furious; (3) the ludicrous ; but, he adds that " the method of dancing them is the same, the movements being slow, or exaggerated, as the case may be. It consists mainly in contortions of the body and hips, with the feet firmly planted and the knees slightly bent. The body is wriggled and swayed from side to side with redoubled animation and fury as the dance advances, but the legs remain bent at about the same angle, and the feet play only a small part in the so-called dancing itself." Masks of all descriptions are worn at these dances — some with eyes that roll and jaws that move, others representing animals with snapping beaks. Then there are ceremonial coats and leggings, and finely worked girdles in beads or in cedar-bark — blankets worked out in totemic designs, and woven in a curious way with the warp of cedar-bark hammered out, and the woof of fine mountain goat's wool (which is found under the animal's outer covering of hair), and batons, wands, head-dresses, ceremonial spears, bows and arrows and I know not what besides. Manners and Traditions of Indians. 237 irk It's f"g lial |es. These articles of api)arel are reserved now for these festive occasions, as for ordinary Hfe the Indians have adopted the European costume. There is one cere- monial head-dress used by a chief (repre- sented in the illustration) which I should like you specially to notice. It is carved from hard wood, painted and inlaid with abalone shell, and hanging behind are three lengths of ermine skins ; round the top we see remains of a fringe of seal whiskers which surmounted the head- dress, and inside which was placed a (juantity of birds' down, which, through the motion of the dancer, would fall like snow around him at his will. This birds' down would also be Vjlown from tubes and scattered otherwise by the dancers, and sometimes it would also be powdered over the paint used on the face and body, thus giving the performer a most startling appear- ance. The list of these paraphernalia gives you some idea of the advanced stage to which these Indian races had brought their industrial arts and crafts before the advent of the white man. Their carving, as shown on the totemic columns, funeral and other chests, and on the spoons, bowls, and other spoon canahitn{ trom the other. The (lovernments, both of liritish Columbia and Alaska, are doing their best to restrain the drinking and inmifjrality and gambling which have played such havoc amongst the tribes, and the missionaries are carrying on a vigorous work amongst them, 'i'hest.; coast tribes arc much more SLiscei)tible to the iniluences of (Christianity than the tribes of the interior, and the Romnn Catholics established successful missions at an early date, which (.) 242 i'liruuuh (Canada with a Kuilak. I 1' ♦•» ' » M arc slill ll<)Uii>luiiLi. Tlir ICiiiscopal and (A\\cr ("luirclus an also al work, and liisliop Sillilof, of Ww Wcst- niinstcr. lold ii.-. llial a \tT\ marked adxancc may now l)t' si't 11 in tin- lialdls and custunis of tlu- |)c'o|)k'. On onr occasion hitcK' he \va. received after a confirmation ceremony to luncheon 1>\ an Indian lady dressed in lawncU'r silk, and a tahle spread out with preserved fruits and all sorts of delicacies. Advance is also hein^ made in the echualion and training of the childri'ii, and al N'ale JAtton. a loveh' spot in the mountains, we had the o|)portunit\ of serine a number of bright, attracti\e- looking little Indian maidens heing trained as ser\ants. lint 1 ha\e so little authentic information as to the work of education and missions amongst these Indians that I can onlv touch on the sul)je(^t, and hope that I may have sufticieiul}- interestetl \-ou in these fellow-subjects of ours, whom we lia\e dispossessed, to make nou wish to hear more of this side of the subiect on S(jme future occasion. •lus V'st- now On tioi) [ ill •VL'd jinl''^' Sir j,,|,n Ak'xand ■\V\lvl),'' thr ,],,,, h ,,f he t-T Macdonald ii piiiiiiisc made lliat Was hrieMv snouid r,c given in a siux- enough to al'lord some jiartiiHiliirs of h 1-^ career eednig numher. 'Ihe Kditor I nc on liii. anada in 1S21, with I "Hth of January, 1815 . and w em Pt-"0|)le. The i)artyof shores of the i)eautirul i. "s parents, u ho were Sulherlandsl emigrants settled ( ;ike On tar own near Kingston, lire on the sketch remained identified with the "1 '" tlic day of his de.ilh, '"• ii'i'l the suhject of ihis 1 .1111 csloiieCitv "^ sit is cal intervals, he \va i"i', with th c e\(:e|)tion of one or s Us representative, llrsl lllle ed ;\s I ) Canada, and then in that of the I) Ills kilher and nioth oiuinion. cr Were of ijood f. in llie Parliament of Old ever since 1X44. ].],,( }, nnihes, iiut at ll ic liiiie of their ir 244 Appe) dix. 1:1 'I* 'it '•J 111 I settling in Canada wore not, to use the ordinary phrase, "well off" from a money point of view. They were, howuver, good, sensible, people, and it is to their care, an(i watchfulness, and to their example and training, that Sir John owcl '-"lost of the remarkahle success that he achie\e "V I I may say that llu- union of Upper and Lower Canada, in 1S40, was not found to work easily and smoothly, and there seemed to be no way out of the difficulties that were created until 1864, when the Maritime Provinces were iliscussinu; a closer union amoni; them- selves at the suggestion of l)r Tupper, now Sir Charles Tupper, the High Commissioner for Canada, in London, whose career is another instance of what ability, energy, and assiduity can accom- ])lisli. Well, the long and the short of it was that Canada proposed a nuich wider union, one which xNould include all the Colonies ; after much negotiation this was brought about, and the new Dominion, with Sir John as the Premier of the fwst (lovernmenl, entered upon that era of rapid devloj)menl, and i)r()gress, which has been w ilnessed in the last twenty-four }ears, and has attracted attention all over the world. Sir John, as we must now call him (for he received the honour of knighthood in 1867, in recognition of his work), may not have been the originator of the idea ol federation, and all the wonderful things that have happened since then may not, as the children say, have come " out of his own head." acceiited that mucli of Canada's success is due to orally liis ability, tact, patience, knowledge of iletail, and the remarkable faculty lie jiossessed of conciliating conflicting interests, and smooth- ing away difficulties. To appreciate the result of the life and labours of Sir John Macdonald, it is necessary to know something of Old Canada fifty years ago, as well as of the great Dominion of to-df Then British North America consisted of the Maritime Provinces and Canada, the country west of the Lake Ifuron to the Pacific Coast, being under the control of the lludson Hay Company (th e provmces o f M mitoba, the \orlh West Territories and British Columbia not being then organised), the great hunting grounds of ndiaiis and trajipers. an( 1 the home of the buffalo, now extinct, anc many other fur-bearing animals. There were only sixteen miles of railway in operation, and all the ])rovinces were as separate and dis- i • A|)|)cndix. '47 •inn r,„,n cad, ,„!,.,■ .s u,.. 0,„a,h, a,„i Aus.n.lia T,7ll~u„.u V , • , ' '"" """ '"-"'■ l"«^ I'"' '■" tlH- .linn „r si ;:";■'';: "'•^''''■"-'■"-^"-'•".•""-li.iau.,,..,,,.,,,™;,. ll.. l..i,M,Mg „l ,l,e Ca.,;,.li;,„ |.a,i,;,. ,,■.,;,,.. , , > \\i)rl acilir Railway, an.I ..Hkt pul.l ic I have nearly come to ih annot write all I should like t which Sir John Macdonal,! ^ ^'lul <.(• the space allotle.l to nu with ^ides th I )se ( :iy ahout tile many wi s name is especially id and I (•cnstnictioii of (ji lealniirwith the formation of (he I '•"uiitry what it is to-d; ^' t,n-eat railway, which ha ve h U'. Hut I ^L' measures •-■ntilied, lie- "iininon. and thi eljied to make tl le position h nia\- ad <-■ occupied as a slat hat, apart from the hitrh part ()| th <-■ l-'inpire, he was csman, which was r •-■(■oi^nised in e \, "1 his social lift very ' one was more <-' a most ch; P<>[)ular in the I) irmm-r i„;u,. •"I'l no one had m oininion am on< ore rientl T pleasant and I'c in his )r<'fital)le, for IK-- v\as full "I'l and youn^L;, society was holh 'ictes, ha *>( reminisce (I read with a wonderlul Iroin !!( M everything that is u,,rth r '"^''iinry. He was the n "i Ls and aiiec •-■adiinj-, an gihed cipient of II tT .Majesty, and his I, ian\- honour; United K as been lai "ii,^ "■^ memory in St Paul's Cathed ral such an 'XCe ti> receive much su[ '-■111 and appropr ip'ori. ifis 1 he followed I lie afford.- )y a I young men, boil late one that ;in e\am|)le that I and the it is sure iiiav well lor It slu)ws, in the t at lioine il'sl ])\ilO ;^'"i in the colonic w hat a man can d,, f, >r th e ifood 1:1 '■( 1) 248 Appendix. his a)untry, if he throws his heart and soul into his work ; and, secondly, the opportunities for advancement that exist in the Colonies for those who adopt the riglit methods to earn success. He said of himself, nearly twenty years ago, in the course of a great speech, "There does not exist in Canada a man who has given more of his time, more of his heart, more of his wealtli, or more of his intellect and power, such as they may he, for the good of this Dominion of Canada,"' and those who knew him think that no more appropriate epitaph could be written on the toml) of the lamented statesman tlian those very words. On the occasion of unveiling the memorial to the late Right Hon. Sir John Alacdonald, in St i*aurs Cathedral, on 16th November 1S*.)2, the Karl of Roseberv said : - Mi 1 I 'v My Lords, Ladies, and (lenllemen, !t gives me great pleasure to come here to-day to unveil this bust. We arc gradually collect- ing within this cathedral the Lares and the I'enates — the household gods — of o\ir commonwealth. Up above there sleep Wellington and Nelson, those lords of war v\iK) preserved the l-'mpire ; below here we have th* "ffigies of Dalley and Macdonald, who did so much to jireserv We have not, indeed, their bodies. They rest more fitly m: le regions where they lived and laboured ; but here to-day we ..secrale their memory and their examjile. We know nothing of parly [lolitics in Canada on this occasion. We oidy recognise this--that Sir John Macdonald had grasped the central idea that tlie iiritish I'lmpire is the greatest secular agency for good n(>w l^no\\n to mankind : that that was the secret of his success, and that he determined to die under it, an))ed the c"r])se of I'ennyson : to-ilay we drive one more nail in on behalf of Sir John Macdoii.ild. liut this standard, so richly studded, imposes on us — the survivors — a solemn obligation. It wouM be nothing were it the mere symbol of violence anil rapine, or even of contpiest. It i> what it is because it repre- sents everywhere |)eace and civilisation and commerce, the negation of narrowness and the gos])el of humanity. Let us then to-day, l)y the shrine ol this signal statesman, once more remember our re- .sponsibility and renew the resolution that, come what may, ue will not flinch or fail under it. )llect- ;ehold lingt on below (11(1 so They d ; but We We led thi |agency )f his that //, iiiuivayd Ju'tin 111 tin f ■', : I \ f '.it- -i n i i ;|*;; ,*v Mi ill •^i^ W. H. Whiik ^*v; Co., I'rinUrs, Edinburgh Is ?■;