IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ 2.2 ^ lllllii^ <^ /2 v: V /A PhotDgraptii Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 V fi '(%^^'^e^'i.- M ■ l^.. V, f\; D U B L I N: P»iXT»D BY Wm. M'K E N Z I E, No. 33, College-grceo; 179J. ■4" %0 h I %. 5^ - BEBlCAriOh TO M. V COUNTRY. >**»*»>»^»»M ^««« '«* '^^ — A S I have at an early period of my life ventured forth in your fervice, it may appear ext':aordinary that a failor fhould turn author, and intrude on your patience a narrative of m,y excurfions. Yet hoping to avoid your cenfure, I have no other excufe but the plea of its being an amphibious production : nei- ther boafting of the merits of novelty, ©r for being remarkably fmgular in any circumftance of my peregrinations. But by exhibiting the final! fervice I had the honor of being ;"refent ;it, may confinn the opinion, that (having alfo pafTed the examination for lieutenant of Oie navy,) I am entitled to my prefent recom- pence r 'V J Pacff to N. W. History Oept. PPOVINCJA'L UI^RARY ' ■^■'*.ri^cszmmttz;::^mr. J 1 — IV DEDICJriOK li 11 1 pence of midfhipman's half pay, viz. Nothh/g per day and to Jind myfelf: which a modern author on this fubjedt, ftyles, " a provifion ** perfectly genteel, by b'^ing perfedlly unli- *' nr\ited.'* And though I cannot boafl: of poffefling the confequence of Diogenes, I can, however, aflure the world, my Tub yet re^ mains; from whence, I am ready to ifl'ue forth, whenever my country or confciencc ihall demand my fervice : hoping thereby to fupport that motto which fliould be chcrilhed by every freeman. Fro Regefoipc^ — pro Patrla fcmpcr FRANCIS V. VERNON. •1 ■. y't > . '-^i'Siv-.f..^-. -m^-^^fft^'fm^l^. 'othhig lodera ivifion r imli- .aft of I can, ct re- I iflue fciencc cby to L-rithed :7' ^>»>»»»^IS; ««« *<^ * -**'~- NON. C O N T E NTS. CHART. Containing fame account of the J^iithor, Joim the Terrible 74. Defcription of a man of wars cockpit. Sails for the relief of Gibral- tar. Defeat and capture of part of the Spa» ni/Jj fleet. Page 5. CHAR 11. The fleet arrives at Gibraltar, Some defcrip-" tion ofiisfituiition. Return of the feet under Admiral Digby to England, Page 20. C H A R III. Sails for jhncrici. Arrival there. An account Xif the proceedings on that coaji. Page 30. CHAR '"«**•► --v^.-.o«J'lftft.--A ~....^ , ■ft ' ' VI CONTENT S. r; 11 A P. IV. The Bedford is d'lfwajled in a Jlorm. Refits ^ and Jails in purfuit of the French, Page 44. CHAP. V. The French feet under the Count de Graffe ar- rives on the coaf. Sir Samuel Hood joins our feet and fails for the Chefipeak, jl&iou tha'e. Page 56. Th C H A 1 • VL Sails for the W(f Indies. Takes a prize on the p<^f'cige. Ceremony in cr offing the Tropic. Arrives at yajmrica, Sonre dcfaipthn of its fituation. Threatened ivith attack. Page 6y CHAP. VIL ^Jamaica relieved hy the arrival of the fleet and priz'^s uif'J^r ^'.'r C;:r:r:^-i Rulney, 7 Ic author Joins the Tol :;\:'ifo.p of -^cv-r, cud f lis en a cruize ojf Ufj)a:uolj^ G II A P. ■ . ^ - -***^ ,,^,„ ,* .. Refiti, age 44- oins our ji&iofi re 56. on the tropic, m of Hs •age 6y 'U't ond ' author • 1 iS cfi a e 7^* C: O N T E N T S. CHAP. VI 1 1. vu A P. The Toha^o jails on an cxpc^Jlicfi to the Muf qii'ito ficre. Joins the Indians. The Spa^ niards fir render the fort at Black- rhur. Returns to jfaniaica. Page 86. CHAP. IX. Embarks on a cruize up the Mtcutcrranenw Rev'tftts Gibraltar^ and atTives at Smyrna^ Page 98, C H A P. X. Dtfcriptton of Smyrna, Embarks in a French floip for Egypt. Page 107, C PI A P. XL Defc?iption of Alexandria and Pampeys Pillar. Embarks for the yland of Cyprus. Page 1 26. c n A p. XII. 4rrives at Lcrnica. Hofpitably received by the Engliflj pro-conful. Embarks from tkefice in a Saiquefor the coq/l of Syria Page 1 39. CHAP. •W" ' vm C O N T r, N T S. l! < II M c IT A i\ xni. Takct Jhelter at the [piVid of Tnrtnp. Arnvex at Latichca^ and proceeds by a (\ninui?t to- %vards Aleppo. l\\}';c 149. c II A r. XIV. Remains during the earnivai at ytleppo. 77^^ plague breaking outy joins a large caravan. Page 159. CHAP. XV. The caravan leaves jileppo ; and crojftng the Euphrates^ pajfes through part ofTurcoma- nia^ the city of Ccrfaria^ ^c. and arrives at Smyrna. Pngc 1 79. C II A P. XVI, Embarks for Europe in a Dutch man of uuir. Arrives at Toulon. Page 206. CHAP. XVII. leaves Toulon and vifits Marftillcs, Page 226. CHAP. CON T I', NTS. te yfr/iir.r iivtin to- ^-c 149. w. r// ciiravatt. Rc 159- Turcoma - r rives ot c 179. :e 206. |ge 226. A P. c H A P. xvm. The Author finds himflf in Pel/ is. His ohfcr* vatious on a few circumfnnrcs. P«igc 249, CHAP. XIX. Touches at the [flamh (f Scilly. yfrnvcs in Pitblin^ and commcnas Captain, yains an equipment^ and is a^ain converted into a inidfjipman. Page 260. G II A V. XX. Jn the interval of pcjcc^ the author turns philo- fopbcr^ and retires to IV ales. I^agc 270. CHAP. XXI. Leaves Wales, and having p ijfed the exami:^ nation for lieutenant of a man (f war, joins the Ncotka Sound armament ; and fails in the 4^d€nt 64, for the Wijl Indies. Page 287* b CHAP. r'i n \\w CONTENTS. CHAP. XXII. The author returns to Europe^ and hoping fo employment from the afpe& of prefent politic. $ brings his narrative to a conclufion, • Page 30.3 f Hon. jlober ilenry IVillia Rober IVillia Matthi ' Oliver Earl o iCount .ord^ iRt. H [Lady SUBSCRIBEm^ C. h i .1 .11. ^ ?^ hoping f(j refent politic. SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. ujion, ' Page 303 , Hon. Richard Annefley jlobert Annefley, Efq. |lenry Alexander, Efq. (M. P.) IVilliam Alexander, Efq. Itobert Alexander, jun. Efq. William Adams, Efq. Matthew AnketcU, Efq. ' Oliver Anketeii, Efq. I B. Earl of Beclive Countefs of Beftive Lord Vifcount Belmore )Rt. Hon. Lord Blaney Lady Vifcountefs Boyne 'RJBERM' C- Beresfbra, Elq. (M. P.) Richard SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. j't Richr.rc! Bosre;, Ffa. Thomas Baker, i.iq. Garret Byrne, Efq. B-tes, Efq. Captain Priibr^.-oTi (Royal Navy) Richard Braffington, Efq. Mrs. Benfon Mifs Benfon Rev. William Benfon Rev. Francis Benfon Mrs. Jane Bury Mrs. E. Bury Charles Brafiington, Efq. Thomas Barton, Efq. (M. P.) B. Bagenal, Efq. Hon. George Browne George Browne, Efq. Colonel W. A. Bailie Hon. Mrs. Bailie Mr. Geo. Matt. Baili# (Merchant) Mifs A. Bailie Mifs J. Bailie William Bayley, Efq. Gilbert Bethel, Efq. Theo. Bolton, Efq. Tiieo. Beileau, Efq. h Samuel :.;) ES. Samuel SUBSCRIBERS NAMES xiij Samuel Bradburn, Efq. Blundell, Efq. Thomas Burrowcs, Efq. Alderman Bevan Allen Bellingham, Efq. Edward Bulkely, Efq. Captain Bulkeley, (Gronant, Anglefeao) Doaor Boyton, (M. D.) James Montgomery Blair, Efq. Rowland Betty, Efq. Wogan Browne, Efq. Mr. David Bates, (Royal Military Academy) Robert Baxter, Efq. C. Karl of Charlemonc Bifhop of Clogher Hon. Lord Caulfteld Hon. Lord Vifcount Caher Lt. Colonel Craddock Rev. Dean Carlcton Alderman Carleton Mrs. Carfon John Crawford, Efq. James Crawford, Efq. (6 copies) • Charles Crawford, Efq. Jafo* ^a^B^K m' Till m •v,. rawford, Efq, ford, Efq. xlv • SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. Jafon Crawford, Efq. Alexander Robert Cr IVIifs Crawford Mifs A. Crawford L. Caffidy, Efq. William Calh\f>han, Efq. Patrick Cantwell, Efq. Mr. William Chiirtres (maflcr Royal Navy) Daniel Frederick Clarke, Efq, Mrs. Croft hwait Mrs. Colville Mrs. Cooke Mrs. Chaloner John Ralph Coiry, Efq. William Cole, Efq. Richard Cudmore, Efq. W. Harcourt Carter, Efq. ' — Cator, Efq. D. Rt. Hon. Lord Donoufrhmore Lord YiRount Delvin 1 homa? Townly Dawfon, Efq. Hon. Baron Dillon William Dcane, Efq. ^Irs. SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. Mrs. Deane Emanuel Goodrick D*Arcey, Efq. Thomas D'Arcey, Efq. Henry Darley, Efq. Frederick Darley, Efq. Thomas Deaves, Efq. Rev. Mr. Darby (4 copies) Samuel Dick, Efq. Mr. James Donnelly Mr. James Dowling V illiam Deey, Efq. Lan. Dowdall, Efq. E. Earl of Ennilkillen Rev. Thomas Elrlngton, F. T. C. D. Francis Eadwood, Efq. John Evans, Efq. John Evans, jun. Efq. Mrs. Evans Mifs Evans Mifs Evans (Ty\ Neivydd, AnglefeaJ Dodor Evans, IXi. D. Anglefea Doaor Elcock, M. D. XV F, nam 4- hi xvi SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. F. Rev. Doaor Fitsfgerald, F. T. C. D, Mrs. M, Fortefcue Captain Fortefcue John Fortefcue, Efq. Charles Frazer, Efq, Rev. Mr. Fiflier Mrs. O'Ferrall Mifs Maria OTerrall ' Anthony French, Efq. Mrs. Falkner Thomas Forefythe, Efq. Charles Frizell, Efq. Lord Vifcount Gosford Right Hon* Henry Grattan Captain Grattan Colley Grattan, Efq. Thomas ^Grattan, Efq. M. D. Arthur Grattan, Efq. Colonel Gordon Captain Gordon (38th Regiment) Hugh Loftus Gordon, Efq. Mrs. Graham (2 copies) John ES. Joha Vt ..^ijt. Lt IK tj Jkl iL**..A <^ 0« ^1 . John GifFard, Efq. Ddaor W. Grey iT Iff ri": a U 2 fii^ Waterhoufe Shcppy Greene, Efq. William Glafcock, Efq. * '"'' "^^ ^ '*^'^'^ ' Garden, Efq. • 1 (^ ; . . « • « - \l T homas Goold, Efq. H. -1 : 1 ' -. ,t: '^^' ■'v ,;. .'"1 •\^. sir Samuel Hayes, Bart. - liang Hamilton, Efq. < J'rancis Hamilton, Efqi W. Hill Hamilton, Efq. Dacre Hamilton, Efq. George Hamilton, Efq. Rev. Geo. Hall, F. T. C. Di Mifs Hotham Hartley Hudfon, Efq. (4 copies) William Handcock, Efq. Rer. Mr. Henry Lieutenant Matthew Hewitt (Royal Navy) Edwaid Hill, Efq. . Rev. Averald Hill • * Henry Hunt, Efq. Francis Hughes, Efq. Mrs. Hughes ' . T 1 Hughes, Efq. — — Hankin, Efq. ^- ' Robert Hume, Efq. William Harknefs, Efq , ' \ Richard ■ ' > » %. \ ^ 'i sria SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. Richa^rd Harman, £fq. John Hawkihaw, Efq. h Ion. George Jocelyn ;' *olonel Irvine (4 copies) ohn Moutray Jones, Efq. / Oive Jones, Efq. Rev. John Jones Mrs. Jacob Mrs. J. Jacob i Jebb, Efq. !v Kfhop of Kilmore n^smcis Knor, Efq. CSiarles King, Efq. K Duncan King, Efq. *■ ■ King, Efq. K. L. Her Grace, the Duchefs of Leinller Jdfeph Leefon, Efq. Mrs. Lynam James Little, Efq. )^ev. Dodor Little Veorge Lowther, Efq. Mrs. Lodington ■^rGeorge L'Eftrange Mrs. Lyfler (2 copies) wk Lyfter, Efq. (a copies) ^jcs powel Leilie, Efq. ES. SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. adx M. Sir George Montgomery^ Bart. Hugh Montgomery, Efq. John Montgomery, Efq. (M. P. Co* Tyroni\ Andrew Montgomery, Efq. - Rev. Robert Montgomery Mrs. Montgomery Edmund Meyrick, £fq. Lieutenant James Magrath, 24th reg* WiltiamMagrath, Efq. Mylcrius Magrath, Efq. Rev. Mr. Mc Gufty George Murphy, Efq. James Maloney, Efq. W. W. Maloney, Efq. Thomas Benjamin Middleton, Efq. Captain Marfliall James Mullalla, Efq. Mrs. Martin George Mauleverer, Hfq. Robert M*Clintock, Efq. William Mafon, Efq. Mr. Williani M*Auley, mercht. Robert Mayne, Efq. Arthur Chichefter Macartney, £fq. John Macartney, Efq. Rev. G. Miller, F. T. C. D. ,1'; X-.? '■ r ^ • *? "• -^ > -• - ( «^ •ilk XX SUBSCRIBERS NAMES,, . -^ j.itZ- n Major Murray Nathaniel Montgomery Moore, Efq. Mr. James Moore (6 copies) J3>C .Viiiii^*^ " Rev. Anketell Moutray . " t^iii' :*:»-4 a .v.5J John Maquay, Efq. : , vr ^^ ' Marfden, Efq. .^ ■ ,. . , .r Mr. William) ^^*Kenzie (ii copietV r . , , Jofcph Nenoe, Efq, Willimn Brydges Nenoe, Efq. . Alexander Nixon, Efq. John Nixon, Efq, Cambden Nicholfon, Efq. ' '' Chriilopher Armitagc Nicholfon, Efq, A. Nichclibn, Efq. ■ ^^ ■ • William Ncwenham, Efq. ^ / ' r Nunn, Efq: '* - *'' v O. /. William Odium, Efq, Abel Onge, Efq. Mifs Ormfby Theop. O 'Flanagan, A. B. T. C. P, . . ' Sir Laurence Parlbns, Bart. ^^^'^^-' - \^^^';fA Major General PriAgle -,, ^^'•'^-^^"-^ ^^:c[ Rev. William Parfons ' '*-"--^ * ^"^ ^' ■ '^ '-^.'rt, •^i-ftr-- -"••»*§ ••»» ^ ?0 rt'll* ':u\ ' •"■^ i"0- - -• ■■■■1. .\ xaw/ii: s^fc"*'!!"^- •J 4-' y X SUBSCRIBERS lf^M£8* ^ * • I • Jion. Mrs. Ponfonby Colonel William Perfle Burton Perffe, Jlfcj. John Pollock, Efq, Dodor Perceval Counfellor Plunket Hev. Henry Pafly, A. M, T, C. p, John Pr ingle, Efq. ., - .; ^,-..,' John Patrick, Efq, ^,^ ; , .-r.» . ''.^,r.j' John Park, Efq. , ,, n ^ ,, R. *- ■ , Earlof Rofis ' v.i.:.^^ : .:! William Rowley, Efq. ^^^ '«« . r Lieut. Jolhua Rowley 1 ^^^^ -^^^^ Lieut. Richardfon 5 Hugh O'Reilly, Efq. ' ? ' / ' William Rathburnc, Efq. Mrs. Ram r— Rochfort, Efq. ■ » ■ •- ■2' •T Hon. Mrs. Staples Rev. Thomas Staples John Staples, Efq. jun» / .. Hon. Mrs. Stewart .^^VLtf.'- William Stewart, Efq. Owen Saunders, Efq. ;:^ey Saunders, F/* ' ' « «•- »i.n_ij ^ i-A-^- .'; / / V ../ xxii SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. William Sweetman, Efq. Marcus Smith, £fq. Paul Smyth, Kfq. Patrick Smyth, Efq. Mr. William Smyth William Stapleton, Efq. Jofeph Sandwith, Efq. Mifs Sullivan Peter P. Slingfby, Efq. Whirley Stokes, Efq. F. T. C. D. Thomas Mat. Simcox, Efq. Robert Stephenfon, Efq. Counfellor Sweney Rev. Mr. Strong Mifs Savage — — Sneyd, Efq. Michael Stapleton, Efq. Mr. J. Stroker ^' Rev. Mr. Strongc Mrs. Stronge John Barclay Scriven, Efq. James Stoyte, Efq. John Stoyte, Efq. James Wallis Street, Efq. . Thomas Singleton, Efq. Richard Wogan Talbot, Efq. \ J-K SUBSCRIBERS NAMES xxiU ames Talbot, Efq. ames Tifdall, Efq. Captain Tifdall Archibald Taylor, Efq. ■ ' ■■'■ Thorp, Efq. SkeiHngton Thompfon, Efq. Mrs. Thompfon Mr. John Fommins, Merchant / WiUiam Tucker, Efq. Martin Tucker, Efq. Samuel Tyndal, Efq. V. Mrs. E. Vernon Charles Hanley Vernon, Efq. Lieut. BrabazonD. Vernon (i 6th Reg.) Henry Vernon, Efq. (6 copies) Harcourt Vernon, Efq. William Vickers, Efq. Thomas Vincent, Efq. Thomas Hyde Villicr, Efq. W. Sir Henry Wilkinfon Mifs Wilfon Andrew Wilfon, Efq. lofhua Wilfon, fen. Efq. \4r. Jofhua Wilfon, Merchant (4 copies) — «~.v_-->*.^ ,«....' '^?^~M«*l O ^ 4^k/ V* *> ill il^ ., ''i- vj l.J p ■ r I-. J 4 . /. Mr. Robert Wilfon - 'd i:. I .^ ? Mr. Ben. Wilfon Mr. Robert Clibborn Wlfon Thomas White, Efq. Mr. Thomas White i-' WilUam Leefott Wall, Efq. . John Wall, Efq. William Wall, Efq. Rev. Chamberlaine Walker f' • ' ; .- ' ^ William Weldoc, Efq. : - ' : . -.^ '■" '-^ .'" ■ ■*-?-'>' ..,., Af- '9 J!^ U' i: Names which came too late to be inferted in then . proper order, :- ... f .. .. r» • .v Mr. Thomas Abbott -^ f . „ r Theo. Bailey, Efq. William Bat^erlby, Efq. J. Barrington, Efq. Crane Br ufli, Efq. , . / ' John Curry, Efq. V- ^ Mr. John Caffidy Mr. Abraham Coatcjr {• ■ - "^^ ' . ^- I t n ■•i***'- •*-'-''w-~-a^ __^_^ l>—^*>^ ~i f f.r > <•<«». ''»V;>,>»>V^TT£7^^^^j^<gg««<-M<^A♦^— > i-.-t. , '/^^ in tbeu ♦. • ..t'i I F your object in furveying this Imall tradl the fiai IS, to examine tne numerous taults or ncti- onal beauties it contains, it is beft to difcon- tinuc your purfuit. As my pen cannot de- viate from the rougher paths of truth, which, by a fca education, may unfold its narrative in a language difcordant to the nicer ear of a critical reviewer, an order of men to whom I have fo profound a refpcdi;^ that my feelings would be fenfibly afFecfled, could I fuppofe myfelf or work fhould ever prefume to pafs the trefhold of their habitations. I And if, during the intervals of peace, a failor wields the pen, permit him to relate A that [ 4 I that divcrfity of fcenes a feafaring life is at- tended with; for if the ocean tells not by its furrows the mazy route of a veflcl, lilkn to its mariner, who attempts not, in quoting ftom the preface of an inimitable French no- velift, to declare, Agui ejia enccrrada el alma del Ucenctado JPedra Carcias,*''^ For the book contains no fuch thing , as I do not attempt to u:jralize; but fliall attain the fummit of my wifl^, if it amufes you. * ** Here is contained the foul of the liceaciatc Feflirv Oarcias." I .•^■-*- ife is at- I --^>v>>>>>>>Mii2<<=>^:^ik^^i^< CHAP. I. Containing fomc account of the Author, yoins the 'Terrible 74. Defcription of a man of ivars cock-pit. Sails for the relief of GibraU tar. Defeat and capture of part of the Spa-- ni(h feet, XT is, in my opinion, an unimportant cir- cumftancc to inform the world, what parti- cular family an individual fprings from, ex- cept, moving in the higher fpheres of life, the VOYAGES AND TRAVELS (! .V '■ ( I I /I the importance of his adlions may juilifjr that information, which, in my humble pe- rigri nations, I fhall conceal. Suffice it to fay, 1 atn an Irifhman, and at the period when the Britifh colonies in North America were engaged in a conteft for liberty with Great Britain, received an academical education preparative to the naval fervice ; and in the year 1777, pined his Majefty's fliip the Terrible, commanded by Sir Richard Bicker- ton. The firfl: two years pafTtd in learning the duty ©f a midOiipman, during a few cruizes in the Englifh channel; and witnefling the comic fcenes of a man of war's cock-pitj v^hich the pencil of Hogarth could fcarcely have done juftice to. Excufc then an at- tempt to fully defcribe that theatre; only to mention, that in a line of battle fhip, fuch as the Terrible was, this region directly below the after part of the lower gun deck, is in- habited by the midfhipmen and furgeons mates^ whoi in general, form as motley a crew, as maybe fuppofed to arife from difference of countries, difference of age and defcent, and difference of education. Their feveral cabbins are i T Amc jealoi — ■ <>^K ■-' juftifj ble pe- to fay, when 1 were ; Great jcation in the lip the Bicker- OF A SEA OFFICER. -7 arc in the center, amidfhips i and feparatcd from each other by partitions of canvas or hammocks, thereby facilitating the communi- cation of difcordant notes, arifing from the difputes that frequently happen. Or if the region is raufically incHned, to the melodious tones of beginners (for they feklom attain Handel's perfecSlicn) attempting on a flute, fife, or violin, the tunes of Nancy DawfoH or Foot's minuet. ing the cruizes nefling ck-pitj carcely n at- )nly to uch as ?elow is in- mates, w, as nee of and bbins are ••> As the example of every captain influencct3 his inferiors, the above fcene is either made worfe, or meliorated by him ; and when it is confidered how many gentlemen s' fons are frequently under his care^ the charge is greats their future chara6ler as officers depending on his attention ; and in ju if ice to vSir Richard in this refpedf, muft acknowledge his kindnefs and friendfhip to his young midlhipmen was worthy that diflinguilhed naval charudler he has ever confpicuoully fupported. The difpute with our colonies in North America, had induced FVance and Spain, ever jealous and watchful of Great Britain, to in- terfere ' ' 1 ^1 i ii !<> P,i i'1 8 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS terfere in the coiiteft, and their condu(St being too open to bj unnoticed, our fleets were augmented, and hollilities cormnenced. In the memorable though indccifive engagement between the fleet under Admiral Keppel, and that commanded b/ Count D'Orviiliers, on the 27th of July 1778, the Terrible played her part, and foon after returning to Spithead, was difpatched on a cruize to the Bay of Bif- cay in company with the Rammillies of 74 guns. We hud here thj good fortune to fall in with a fleet of homeward bound French Well India-men, from the ifland of Saint Domingo, and giving chafe, captured fevcn of them ; they were richly laden with cotton, fugar, and CofTee, and conducSting them fafe into port, had the fatisfadlion to find our prize-money came to fome amount, as every foremaft-man fhared more than twenty pounds, and every midfhip-man above an hundred, for prize money is almofl: the life of naval war; confidering the low rate of feamens pay, that during many years has received no in- creale ; and is in proportion ftill lefs to the midfhip-men, as the pittance of from one pound ten fliillings to two pounds per month is* ! IS, :i| centl foul OF A SFA OFFICER. is, nt this day, too fmall a fum to appear de- cent with as an ofilcer, or even to keep life and foul together ; and vvh^n it is evident how many hundreds arc debarcd frcrn tl.tir right to promoiion, the leaft a free and generous country could do, would be to render comfor- table the fituations of thofe men, who at the hour of danger withdrawing from other pro- (._ .v*^:.. i8 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ^':: ■ main-top-gallant-maft was fliot away, the ml-^ zen-maft damaged, and the ftanding and run- ning rigging much cut. My ftation in the fight was what is com- monly called a powder-monkey, fupplying two of the quarter deck guns with powder from the magazine ; for the younger midihip- men, not having the experience neceflary for a greater charge, are hereby made ufeful, and alfo accuftomed to the fmell of gunpow^der. This engagement during the night had dif- perfed our fleet, and atdu. h :\ we found no ihips in company but the prize, and Monarch ^4. The following day it blew ftrong, with \ a heavy fea from the weftward, and the crip- pled fituation of the San Julian, prevented our carrying fail. On the 1 8th, eariy in the morning,; having drifted near Cadiz, we plainly perceived 1 it under ou.* lee, with a Spanifli ^ i'^i|,on at anchor in the harbour; two ftiV'-^ : 1' .e of: battle {hips were alfo in fight, under faii, i heiv| making the private fignal, and it not being! anfwereci, aul mij ne: bill rei wei irail in Ro( Str( \ i \l VELS ay, the ml-' g and run. ; OF A SEA OFFICER. 19 *! It IS com- fupplying ? th powder sr midihip. jceflary for ufeful, and powder. jht had dif- e found no d Monarch rong, with 1 the crip- prevented anfwered, fuppofed they were enemies, 2nd might have engaged them ; yet if crippled fo near an enemy's port, there was little proba- bility to efcape being taken, it was therefore refolved to abandon the prize, which, (as we were afterwards informed) was loft at the en- trance of Cadiz. Crowding a prefs of fail, in the eveninj^ the Terrible joined Sir George Rodney and fleet, at the entrance of the Streights of Gibraltar. i mornmg, perceived! i'"^;^on atl : i« .e oii faii, v her' not being, anfwered, i '-■^ HAP. zi:r- -cj'.*'- so VOYAGES A\-D TRAVELS CHAP. II. r : \ ■.'i T^hcjlfct arrives at Gibraltar, Some defer iption of lis fituation. Return of the feet under Admiral Dlgby to England, JL HE fortune of the day had thrown into our hands, the Spanifli Admiral, Don yuan de Langara y Huarte ; taken in the El Pha^nix of eighty guns, (iince called the Gibraltar, to commemorate the vidory.) vShe had loil her mizen and main-top -mafts, and had not fur- rendered 'till after a gallant defence, whereby Don Langara received a wound. The La PrinceOa, El Diligcntc, and La Monarca of 70 guns each, w^ere alfo taken ; the San Eugenic and San Julian, both of 70 guns, were run on fhorc, and the San Domingo 70, was blown up, at the commencement of the adion. — Thus was taken and difperfed a fine fquadron, though having fought bravely, atlafi: fell van- quifhed to grace the arrival of the Britlfh Admiral. The oi;" A SEA OrFICER. ir The La Monavca was given to onr charge to cond i£t into port, and having entered the Mcdit^rranem, Admiral Digby with eleven Ihlps ancliored before Gibraltai", while the re- mainder of the Pieet under Sir George, kept beating againft the current that conftantly runs from the weftward through the Streights intp the Mediterranean. On the twentieth in pafTmg near GibraUar, we perceived the Spanifh line of battle (hip, on board which Don Barcelo difplayed his flag, in the harbour of x\lgaz'ras, was (with a fifty gun Ihip her confort) highly decorated with colours and pendants, to celebrate the anivcr- fluy of the King of Spain's birth day ; but this triumph foon ceafed, on the certainty of our vidory being confirm'd by the arrival of Sir George with the reft of the fleet and prizes ; w^ho anchored before Gibraltar, on the twenty- firft of January. On the night of the 2 1 ft we gained the Bay, and the wind falling, were carried by th i current near the Spanifli batteries, that fituated on the fandy ifthmus, formed the blockade of Gibraltar. Their lire foon convinced us of our fituation, as the balls not only reached the Terrible > 22 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS Terrible, but pierced the lloutcll parts of he- hull. Our fleet at anchor under Gibniltar, fenfiblc of our diftrels, fent their boal^ well armed to our afliftance. The fire from the Spaniards was returned from Willis's battery ; as any firing from the Terrible would have encreafed their attack, by convincing them it was with fome effedt. Fortunately at this crifis, a light breeze fpringing up, and the boats in fpite of the lliot whizzing round continued to tow us, at break of day enabled our calling anchor among the fleet. One of the Spanifli prifoners was killed and two wounded, but the damage done to the hull and rigging was inconfi- derable. < r m U I The garrifon of Gibraltar, at this time confifling of between five and fix thoufand men, under the command of General Elliot, had, for fome weeks been blockaded by a Spa- niih army that lay encamped near the ifthmus, and intrenched with a chain of batterries that ranacrofs; and the communication with the coaft of Barbary, whereby frefli provifions, fruits, and vegetables, had been obtained, was cut off by the fmall Spanifli fquadron, under Don I jar, \] OF A SEA OFFICKR. ij Don Barcelo, who on the appearance of the Jkitifli fleet, retired under IhcUer of the bat- teries, at Algaziras. The arrival of Sir George, diffufed general exultation among the garrifon, at their perceiv- ing the Britifh flag Again triumphant in the Mediterranean, and that the wanted fupply of men and ftorcs, came gliding on tlie wings of vidiory. Gibraltar, in latitude 36^^ North, longitude 51^ Weil from the meridian of London, is the mofl: fouthcrn part of Spain, lying in the province of Andalufia, to wliich it is joined by a low and narrow neck of Ian d. It anci- ently had been called Mount Calpc, and with JVlount Abyla on the oppofite coall of Africa, arc fuppofcd to have been the pillars of Her- cules. The rock is aljout feven miles in cir- cumference, and three miles long ; the extreme perpendicular height of its i\\m mit is fourteen hundrcdfect. This promontor y extends length, ways from north to fouth 5 its fouthcrn extre- mity is the mofl foutherly point in Europe, and is therefore called Europa Point. The eafl:ern fide of the rock is alnioll perpendicu- lar, and on the declivity ot the ^vcilern iivlc arc 24 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS arc built tlie town, barnicks, and houfes of the inhabitants and garrilbn. The only entrance towards Spain is well de- fended by the numerous bateries that either lie near the gate, or formed on the ftcep rifmg of the northern end, feem to bid defiance to at- tack. On this parr, and more than half way ii}) the rock is fcooped an entire batterry out of the folid ftone, and prefenting near twenty guns tow\ards the Spanifh lines, is juftly the admiration of ?11 who fee it, and leading to a chamber formed in the pinnacle of a rock, encreafes the fufjprize, where fome can- non compleatly command the only place where an allault by land could be attempted. This is called Inch's Cave or batterry, perhaps in compliment to the enguicer who planned the deilgn. By a door the fpeclatcr reaches a fmall rpot on the out fide of the pinnacle, and b'jiioldij under him a dreadful precipice o near a thoufand feet. A lliort time fince an officer threw himfelf down, and ended his niifery by being dallied to pieces., for before his regiment left England he had conceived a violent affedion for a young lady, and being ibon to depart for Gibraltar, entrufted the communication of their letters and mutual attacimient y '1 mai an riag and. her fell t Di atteiT degre they fuppo the b nigiit, carria^ till fi] impofi iind W( Gibi niards ters, ar the Spi longing who w gfcat c prize, b OF A SEA OFFICER. 25 attachment to a bolbm friend. Matters re^. mained for fomc time in this iitiuUion, when an Englllli [•azelte informed him of the mar- riage of his beloved, with his fuppofed friend ; and, in-allc to furvive the Iliock, he embraced her pidure, and jumping from the precipice, fell a melancholy vidim to deceit. During tlie fiege a icrgeant and a few privates attempted to efcape from Inch's Cave, and by degrees having conveyed pieces of rope which they fpliced together and concealed, when fuppofi ng they had a fufficient length to rcLich the bottom, took the opportunity of a dark night, to make faft the end of this rope to the carriage of a gun, and getting on it, flid down, till finding the rope too fliort, and it being impofTible to return, they fell oiF cnc by one and were dafhed in pieces, Gibralter had, durin g the wars of the Spa- niards and Moors, frequently changed its mat- ters, and in the year 1704 w\is taken from the Spaniards by an attack of the fcamen be- longing to the heet under Sir George Rocke, who whllft the garrifon were alfembled in the great church, fuccesfully crowned their enter- prize, by the capture of this fortrcis, which yi |I| 1 ir y 1 .| i M ^ a' -^ «r'r-*->. _r::v mm mm 26 VOYAGES AND i'RAVl-LS % ^ has imcc remained in our poirefTion, and from 1^3 cncrcaicd ftrengtii, i-romilcs to withftand any attack, unlefs attended with thofc unfore- fecn accidents that tVequcntly overturn the moft lirni and pronnlir.g fituations. Gibraltar is a bri .<:iit jjwel among the pof- feffions of the Britilh crown, but an expen- five on. ; for, from the late furrendcr of the illand of Minorca, and the decreafc of our trade to the Mediterranean and the Levant, the prottdion it can atTord to our fhipping muft at prefent be inadequate to its ex pence ; for though a garrifon may remain heahhy from the wholefomcnefs of its fituation, yct» the idea of keeping Spain hereby in awe is vifionary, as fhc can maintain a force fuffici- ent for a blockade, at one half the fum it mud coft England for its fupply. Sir George on his arrival, had fent intelligence to Mr, Logie the Enghfh conful in Barbary, to prepare fupplies for the garrifon, and on the 22d, difpatchcd three vefTels under con- voy of the Bedford ^4, to Tetuan to bring over what was at hand. The conful had al- ready provided provifions, live flock, &c. but from the hurry of bufmefs the ihips fent were OF A SEA OFFICER* 27 al- Ibut fent Trc 'vVere tranfports, and having troops and (lores on board, could make no room for the in- tended fupply, and an eaderly wind fpringing Up, obliged them to return to Gibraltar Sir George, when he captured the Carracca fleet, judged that the cargo of feveral of them would be ufeful to the garrifon, he there- fore landed their freights, along with the fup- plies which government had fent out. In the beginning of F^ebruary it blew a HrOng gale from the fouth weft, and from the foul- nefs of the ground (where the fleet lay an- chored off Roiia Bay, along the weftern fide, and within the Bay of Gibraltar) had nearly occafioned confiderable damage, as one of the Spanifh prizes would have drove on the rocks had not timely afliflance been given her. The Spanifh Admiral was on the 13th of February permitted on his parole to return to Spain. Having previous to his departure re- gulated every thing concerning the exchange of prifoners, he was condudlcd, with part of his (liite, in the governor's carriage, to the Spanifh lines, where the recital of the hu- D mane * m ^ 28 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS mane treatment ihcy had received, contributed to their opinion of Britifh generofity, and was of advantage to the EngHfh prifoncrs then in Spain. ■L * In the evening of the thirteenth, our fleet got under way, with- a frefli eafterly wind,, and proceeding through the Straits of Gibral- tar, faw the Spaniards were alarmed, and perceived during the night, fignais and lights, that were (hewn from watch-towers placed along the coaftr We continued our courfe for a few days to the weftward, when income- pany with a relation I removed on board the Bedford 74, commanded by that worthy offi- cer, the late Sir Edmund Affleck. On the i8th, Sir George Rodney 1 ing. a fquadron withfom^ fhipsthat werefheathed with copper (including my former fhip the Terrible then commanded by Captain John Douglas) fleered for the Weft Indies, where the French had fent confiderable reinforce- ments, leaving the rcma;ader of the fleet and prizes to proceed to England under Admiral Digby, On our paiTage, the evening of the 23d, we came in light of a fleet oi merchant- men. €T A SEA OFFICER. 29 Tnen convoyed by two French fixty-foura; giving chafe, one of them carried away her forc-top-maft, and the Refolution 74, Sir Chaloncr Ogle, coming up, they exchanged a few broadfides. The Bedford being the next fhip, fired fome of our lower deck guns, when Ihe ftruck. She was called the Lc Protheei was fheathed with copper^ and had on board forty two barreli of dollars^ intended to pay the French troops on the Iflands of the Mauri- tius at the other fide of the Cape of Good Hope towards Madagafcar. Two or three tran- fports that were under her convoy, were alfo taken. The French Captain Monfieur Chilot was mortally wounded, bcfides feveral of their men. This addition to our prizes was wcl- comly received on our arrival at Spithead ; where, after heartj congratulations for our fuc- cefs, we began to refit for thofe enterprizes the hoftilities with France, Spain, and Ame- rica made abfolutely neceflary. 71 CHAP- 30 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS I i J CHAP. HI. Sails for America^ Arrival there. An ac* count of the proceedings on that coqfl* T. HE Bedford having equipped and com- pleated her provifions and water, in the fpring of the year 1780, on the loth cf April failed towards Plymouth, and joined a fquadron lying in Caufand Bay, under the command of Rear Admiral Greaves. This Bay is expofed to the fouthward, and during our ilsy "^^ experien- ced a heavy gale of wind from the fouth well, the fhips rode fore-ca^lle in, and from the foulncfs of the anchorage, rifqued parting their cables, 3nd driving on the rocks near mount J''dgecomb, when fortunately^ the gale fubfiding, the fquadron weighed ancbo*" for North Anic- rica en the 17th of May. The fhorteft diOapce to this continent if; ur"^ards of thtee ihoufand miles acrofs the Atlantic OF A SEA OFFICER. ^.r Atlantic or wcflern Ocean ; but the courfc to enfure the quickcft pafTage, is by Icecring to the fouth 'vcit, 'till near the parallel of 26 degrees noi th latitude, where from the proba- bility of meeting eaflerly winds, the length of thi voyage is in general more {hort than by keeping in a higher Uritude, which is fub- je(f£ to weftprly winds, that during great part of the year blov/ from the coaft of North .^irnerica, and fweep acrofs the Atlantic, ''[his fouthern courfc our Admiral (leered with the following fhips, Ships. Guns. The London, 90 Refolution, 74 Bedfprd, 74 Royal Oak, 74 America, 64 Prudent, 64 And Amphitrite Frigate, 1% ' Commander?, Rear Admiral Thomas Graves ; Captain David Graves, Commodore Sir Cha- loner Ogle. CaptainEdmund Affleck. ■■ ■ Sir Digby Dent. — Thompfon. — Burnet. Biggs. Before our departure from EnglanJ, a French fquadron of feven \i\\ of the line failed for y \i lUJ,^ U..-JBBi I- I 3« VOYAGES AND TRAVELS for America, and expedling to overtake thenj, embraced every opportunity in exercifmg great guns and fmall arms, in order to be properly prepared for giving them a decent reception if we met; but thcextenfive fpaceof the Atlantic prevented that rencontre we anxioufly wifhed ^br. However, fortune threw in our way a French Eaft India-man, called the Le Farges, homeward bound from the Iflands of Mauri- ^iu3,and principally laden with a valuable cargo of (ea ; by her we received the agreeable intel- ligence of the fuccefs of the Britifh arms in India. / , i h'\ The Admiral leaving the Amphitrite Fri- gate to condudl her into port, proceeded with the fquadron towards America, In eroflingths Atlantic from Europe to America, in a northern latitude, (hips in general find they are aftern of their reckoning ; that is, their reckoning is out long before they make or fee the land. This is to be accounted for by cur- rents, pairticularlythe gulf ftream, which from a wellerly courfe among the Iflands of the Weft Indies, runs to the northward, from the Gulf of Mexico, along the. American coaft., and in or A SEA OFFICER. jy m pfoportioh as it gains the northern latitudes inflexes its courfe to the eaftward, and muft hereby contribute to the above mentionecf circumftance. This is alfo corroborated by ex- perience proving thofe fhips bound from Ame. ricato Europe are a-head of their reckoning and unqueftionably from the fame eaufe. Oh the 13th of July, after a pleafant paf- flige of eight weeks fmce the fquadron failed from Caufand Bay, we came i n fight of th«^ high land of Neverfmk, that fituated in the Jerfies at a fhort diftance from Sandy Hook, i^ a oonfpicuoue land fall for fbips bound to New York. North America at this period, was in the midft of the unfettled ftate of ho^ftilify, which terminated in her independence. Though the Britifh army had met with various fucceli, the recent capture of Charle; nvn, the capital of fouth Carolina, encreafed thole fanguine hopes t'lat from the firft of the difpute luul drav'n Great Britain into enormous expencc. As the attempt to encrcafe taxation when (from appearances) the ^nances of the mother coun- trr II ^ 34 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS try by no means required it, roufed the fpirit? of America to maintain the rights of freedom On our arrival off Sandy Hook we were joined by three fail of the line, viz. the Ro- buft, 74, Europe 64, and Raifonable 64, under Vice Admiral Arbuthnut, who had lately returned from the fouthward, with part of the army, after the furrender of Charles- town ; being fenior Adm;ral, he took the com- mand of the iket, now confiding of nine fiiil of the line, beiiJes Frigates, when pro- ceeding to the northward towards Rhode I Hand, found the French f^uadron of fcven line of battle fliips, had jail arrived, and being anchored in the harbour, were alfo defended by many batteries ereded by the Americans. However the confufion thev were thrown into by the fudden appearance of our fuperiour force, might almoft have enfurcd fuccefs to an attempt to force the harbour, whicli an ig^ norance of their real (ituation prevented. The ilcet thence fteered to the fouthward, and an»- chored oB' Block Illand, fituated a few leagues ^o the north taft of Montock Point, the eaftcrn end of Long illand. The inhabitants were dif. affe^ed no \ f '^ ' fP 46 VOYAGES AND TRAVEIi; When fcarce any hopes remained of being faved, one of the furgeon's mates who played very well on the violin, (having drefleJ hiin- felf in his heft cloaths) played with the utmoft compofure the tune of " caft anchor on ou r native fhorc," thereby affording a flrong exam- ple of the various impreffions the minds of men are fufceptible of on the approach of danger. Fortunately the wind in an inftant fhifted to the north weft, thereby making aweather-lhore of the land wc fo much dreaded and cncreafing the room for drifting, cheered us with the hopes of getting out to fea when day light appeared, but were difappoiiitcd bv a thick fog that accompanied the break of day, which clearing up at intervals, difcovercd wc were again dole to land. The Ihattered litua- lion of the fails prevented the fuccefs of any efforts to ftretch off, and left tlie only reiource to fave the (hip to the ilrcngth of the Ihcet cable. As both bower cables had before par- ted, it could not be fuppofed that the Ihcct cable alone could hold, as the ftorm raged with unabated fury ; therefore about 8 oVlock i'l ■0 ^•^i»:VP*i«*WNH»'- ■•4I''-' '»«*•«•'■.■ -(i.^t^ or A SEA OFFICER. 47 in the morning the, Captain and Oflicers refol- Vcd to cut away tlie mafls, and by thus dimi- ilhing the iurface expofed to the wind, give the only afTiftance poflible to the remaining Cable. The mufts being cut away, the lliect anchor was let go, and tliereby rode out the remainder of the gale. At lo o'clock the fog cleared away, when ^ve perceived Gardiner's Ifland clofe aftern, and one of the fquadron dro\ne afhore and loft near Long Ifland. Our fleet in Gardiner's Bay were alfoin fight, and on the 24th fent round their boats to our afliftance, when, by warping and towing, the Bedford anchored once more among the fleet. The Hilp on iliorc was the Culloden, who attempting to get out to fea during the night of the 2 2d, ftruck againil: a fmall rock, and grounded at the fame lime. The fituation of the crew was rendered precarious and embar- raffing, till day light difcovercd they were clofe to land. When the gale fubiiding, the oifu'crv '^S VOYAGES AND TRAVELS officers and men landed, and found fufficient employment in erecting tents with the yards and fails, to lodge the ftores that might be faved, and find fhelter from the heavy falls of fnow and hard froft. After fome time fmall veflTels were difpatched from Gardiner's Bay, and having brought round the fliip*s company, &c. they were dif- tributed among the remainder of the fleet. ■'\i The Adamant during the ftorm came to an anchor, and as we were afterwards informed by Mr. Young (the mailer) tho' riding with all her anchors a head, narrowly efcapcd foun- dering, as fhe (hipped fo much water on the lower gun deck, that with difficulty could be cleared by the pumps. 1 Our {bip*s company were immediately em^ ployed in ercdling jury mails, which wc formed of top-mafls placed on the flumps of the former lower-mafls ; and as thefe were better than none, perlevered in our new equipment, 'till .I "* *--» ii« I i i * "" *w OF A SEA OFFICER. 49 'till informed of the prefcrvation of the CuU lodcn's mafts, that were got from the wreck, and being brought round, (hipped them on board the Bedford by means of the London's main yard that was ftrengthencd and fecured under infpedion of Mr. Hemmings, the admiral's mailer. During thefe tranfadions, the fuccefs of a large detachment of our army under General Arnold in Virginia, had induced Genera) Wafhington to oppofe him, with two thoufand choice troops under the Marquis De La Fayette; while the French at Rhode Ifland thought, by taking advantage of our late difafter, to atone for their former inadivity, and difpatched a line of battle fhip, with fome frigatCvS, not only to furprize our fmall naval force in the Chefapeak, but to confirm on their return the exadt difpofition of affairs. By this plan they liad the fortune to furprize the Romulus of 44 guns, and returning with^hcr to Rhode Ifland, induced the French Commander, Monfieur De Barras (their former Admiral Monfieur Ternay being nui mmmm. 50 VOYAGl'S AND IRAVKLS being dead) to fail the 18th of M., ch, with tlic entire Iquadron and troops, for tl\e Cihci'a- peak, tliinking to cut oft* General Arnokl's re- treat from Virginia, before our fleet could have reiittcd to oppole them. This information added life to our exertions, and being aftilled by the Hect in the Bedford's re-equipment, Ihc was foon comj'leatly rigged and ready for fca. IH \ In the mean time the America 64, that was fuppofed to have been loft: in the late ftorm, hove in fight ; for having fortunately got out to fea in the niglit of the 2 2d of January, had thereby fufticient fea room, and thus weather- ing the gale, cheered us by her lafc return. On the /othof March (two days after the French left Rhode Ifland) our fleet confifting of eight ftiips of the line, with frigates, failed from Gardiner's Bay, and ftccred to the fouth- ward in queft of Monfieur Dc Barras. On the morning of the i6th, the weather being hazy, wc heard the report of feveral guns, !l OF A SEA OlMCER. 51 guns, and by lignals from the Admiral, cleared Hiip lor adion. The day clearing up, about 10 in the morning perceived the French fleet to windward, confiding of the following ihips : Ships. guns* Le Neptune, 84 Lc Bourgogne, 84 Lc Conquerant, 74 La Provence, 64 * Ardent, 64 Le Jafon, 64 L'Eveillc 64 Romulus, 44 befides frigates. Our fleet formed a line of battle, and by working to windward, with a prefs of fail> continued to approach Monfieur De Barras, who with his fliips lay ready to receive us. Our force was fupcriour, and the following • Taken by the combined fleet in the channel. day nj *, i\ H 1i JK 6''' VOYAGES AND TRAVELS day, being the fcftival of Saint Patrick, my cour^y-nen fworc by J— f— s they tvould for once ]:e.^> it oi; the ifS'J\; an;! tr* Juiticc to the crews ia general, I never faw a preparation for figat but was attenckd with their utnioft iatisfa€ticn. •I ■1 Early in the afternoon the van of the fleet, led by Captain Cofby in the Robuft, began the engagement, and from the manner the Britifh line approached that of the French, expofed our hcadmoft (hips to run the guantlet, by receiving the fire of the French, before each fhip could clofe with her antagonift, and thereby entirely difabled the Robuft, Prudent, and Eu- rope, tho' fought and conduced with the well known bravery and fkill of their refpedtive Captains. The center and rear of our fleet had little to fay to the affair, for being obliged to remain by the crippled (hips, gave an oppor- tunity to Monfieur De Barras, to ftand oflT in a well formed line, who if he had fpiritedly attacked us in our confufed fituation, have not the OF A SEA OFFICER. ^3 thr Iqaft doubt but our formci* hopes gf vidtory would have been changed into defeat. This was au example to prove no Brltifh lailor fhould defpifc the ftudy of naval tadtics ; for tho* fear* anfhip may appear with the great- eft luftre in commanding a fmgle fliip, yet, the condudiiig many fhips requires the affii- tance of theory, with the experience of prac- tice. ) The French fleet fteered to the northward, and by this rencontre were entirely fruftrated in their intention to intercept General Arnold^ as our fleet fteered for the Chefape k, and an- chored in Lynn'sHaven Bay the 20th of March. Every expedition vva« made to refit the Ro-. buft, Europe, and Prudent, who befides theii^ rigging being much, cut, had many men killed and wounded; among the former was Mr. Lyttletqn, lately promoted to the rank of lieu- tenant on board the Rpbuft, and fon to Lord Wefcot ; he was very young, and much be- loved. He received during the adtion a wound h V » ' 1 |.ii \^\- in. 54 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS in his head, and continued to the laft encou- raging his men to their duty. On the 24th, the fleet being ready for fea, weighed anchor, and flretched to the eaftward, when finding the weather incUned to be bluf- ^^n^» again returned and anchored in Lynn Haven Bay, where a large fleet of tranfport^ foon arrived from New York, with two thou- fand troops, under the command of Major General Phillips. Thefe were convoyed by a few frigates, and the Chatham of 50 guns, who were fortunate in having efcaped meeting the fquadron under Monfieur De Barras. This reinforcement was mmediately fent up the Chefapcak, and joined the troops that were at New Portfmouth under General Arnold. II The latter end of March our fleet failed from the Chefapeak, and on their return to New York wc compleatly refitted, when many of our men fell ill with the fcun'y, the reign- ing diforder among feamen, particularly in northern climates ; for the intenfe cold, pre- venting ttmm or A SEA OFFICER. 3.> venting a free perfpiration, confines the fcorbu- tic humours that receive daily incrcafc from the faltnefs of provifions. This diforder ge- nerally appears by livid blotches on feveral parts of the body, particularly the legs, that frequently fvvell, with fore and putrid gums, liable to bleed on tiie leaft preflure, accompa- nied with laflitude and lowncfs of ipirits. Tents were therefore eroded on Staten Ifland, and from the good cfFedls of fmall excurfions, though at firft on crutches, with plenty of vegetables and frefh meat, we had foon the fatisfadtion to fee the health of many fine fcl» lows compleatly re-eftabliflied. ( f C II \ \\ 56 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS CHAP. V. The French fleet under the Count De Grajfc arrives on the coqft. Sir Samuel Hood jrim nur fleets and fails for the CbefipeaL J^flon there. T HE chief part of the fummer pad in cruizes to the northward, where we took luaay prizes; fome being privateers, were taken into our fervice, and the fmaller ones we either fcuttled or fet on fire, particularly thofe that were from the Ifland of Nantucket, whofe in- habitants employ a number of floops in the whale fi{hery ; but being difaffedled, their veffels were taken and deftroyed whenever we came acrofs them. Admiral ttmumfm^. oi A SEA OFFICER. 57 Admiral Arbuthnot failing for Europe in the Roebuck, the command of the fleet devolved on Rear Admiral CI raves, and in order to in- tercept any fupplics arriving in Bofton, from France or Holland, (with whom we had alfo engaged in war) the fleet cruized for fome time oflf Borton Harbour, and this part of the coaft being fubjc^l to thick fogs, fcarce met with any other weather, and obliged the fhips to beat the drum, or found the bell at intervals, in order to avoid falling on board each other, as by this means they judge their diilance. A The middle of. Augull, we returned to New York, and on the 20th Sir Samuel Hood arrived oflf Sandy Hook with 14 fall of the line from the Weft Indies. The French fleet under the (^ount De GraflTe had alfo failed from Cape Frj// j y/j in the Ifland of Saint Domingo, and after convoy in -5 a large fleet of merchant (hips a confideriblr diftance on their paflTage, arrived on the coait of America, and anchored in Lynn Haven Bay. This was a prelude to the 9 omn ■^nonn HHm* JH VOYAGES AND TRAVELS the unfortunate furrender of the troops with Lord Cornvvallis, in new Portfmouth, who had for fonie time been invcfted by the Ame- rican army under the Marquis Dc La Fayette j and though Lord CornwaUis had p;JlanUy with-ftood the alFault, the arrival of the Count Dc Grafle, by blocking up the entrance of the Chcliipeak, prevented any communication between our two armies. To open this every effort was made b" Admiral Graves, to form a jun£tior\ with Sir Samuel Hood, and to at- tack the French fleet before they could be reinforced by the fquadron under Monficur Dc lianas. '1. On the 3 1 11 of Augull, our licet conlifting of 2 I fail of the line, failed from Sandy Hook, and (leered to the fouthward. On the morn- ing o^ the 5rh of Septenjber, beinf^ off thg (Jlicfapeak, the headmoft ihips made the fig- nal for feeing an enemy's fleet to the fouth- ward J when having cleai'ed for adion, and formed of DP A SEA OFFICER; 59 formed a line of battle, bore down toward them. The French fleet flipped their cables, and getting under way, ftretched out to fea, and forming a line of battle a-head, on the larboard tack, confifliing of 24 line of battle Ihips under the Count De Grafs, who in the center of the fleet, had his flag on board the La Ville Dc Paris, of 1 1 o guns. The wind being from the N. N. E. gave us the weather gage^ when our fleet wearing round, kept bearing towards the French in a i)ow and quarter linej on the krbourd tack. About 4 in the afternoon our van, led by Rear Admiral Drake in the Princelfa, began the engagement with the van of the French fleets when both lines gradually clofing, the adlion became more general, and continued »till near fun fet, wheji the fleets feparating* continued in figlit of each other for feveral days ; and though the French had frequently the weather gage, and a fiiperiour force, they nould not rlfquc a Iccond engagement. Some ()f our Ihips received confidcrable damage, B parricularjy i i !• \ 60 V0Y/U;KS and TRAV I'.LS p«rtic\il.uiy the Ivrril)!*' .»iul Aj.iv ; iho IVr* viMo h,u1 racivcd iirvcr.i) llutts hctwrcn \\\\u\ ;u\il \v,it(M-, nnil a'. tMir riM'.irn to Nrw Y(>rk tni;'J\t l>v av coinjwjucJ wvih Wovu^x wr.ithcr, {iv.ii tV>vn her loakv liM.:;\t■u^^) uii^ht o«ul.\«igor hcv (mI'v-vms aiul nu't\, it \v.r^ thrvoiorc rclolvctl \o \c\ i\>M" '>!» ipc ; whvMj ihr virw hviiu; liillii- b\it(\i ■unoi)'''- iW 11 V V \\\c w.is i^ f (Ml iuc on tl\o (\l, ^" oi nijHu, iuuUm the inlpoc\ion ol C!a|H.\i.i ChnirMa, id tlio !,;» l-\nHinrr l''ni;al(", 1 thu.'; law i\'iV old 'lv,|i iri a hl.i/o, wlTivli lluoW 4 {Iron*' ll'.\l\t ovvvlhc 1>.m lor Iiw.mk's rt>mul, ann ol powder- tuiM^Vcv, was pionuUcii lo the rank i^t aid dr camp ti> raptaii\ Thotnas ( Jravcs, wlio now coiuniaiuhd tlir Hoiitord, ^C'-apfain Atllcrk a« Con\n\odorc, hcini; U't\ with the con\in and ol' \\\e t]\ips at New Yt>tk.) C)n the iicer.s rctinn, the 20th oi Septeinher, to SatuU Hook, the liUl effort to relieve Li)rd Covnwaliis was at- tempted OK A SI'A OMICKU. 6i tcnipiivl, h\ tinharkinp; a rtmiklorahle iwnnbcr vi troi'u)ur tn anv foirc tiiat unilil )i(^ ilclaclicil from New York, that iVoin it--, ijlualion an-l cMcnf, rrtjuirrd a laM-c hoJy of troops for its licfcikc. \Vti};.I\"!'\r. atulu>! oner nioi* from the I look, arrived of]' tlu- riitJaiK-ak on thr ; ph ni" ( )c- U^hcr, and iWulinii;thc V'loucli fleets hail torincci a jun^lion, h ul alio the niortifiealion to per- ceive the u!\ anta •(•(HIS Itn-^ thev lay luooreil in, aerois tl*: enlianec honi dape Henry tt* the nTuklle \»;ron!ul, piexeuteil the IhullcH iiopc* ot a hkcclsinl attaek. In this lituatioit aciviec Ava;", reeeived iVoiu l.ovd ( loriwallis of his hn ••. rciuler. The ikei leiuniin^r \.) Now York, 1 had, clu" latista^iiiun to he leeoiuinendcd by C aptaii ^ruvc^i Oil hoard the London, cunmuntleil by <\(Jtniirak, 'ij' i V 62 VOYAGKS AND TRAVKLS Ailmital Thoinas Graves. The command on the coail was left to Admiral Dighy, to ohl'crvc the motion of the Count Dc GraHb, who fail- ing foon after for the Weft Indies, was fuc-i cefsfully attacked the following year by the fleet under Sir George Rodney. C H A F. ^»^ A SKA Ol 1 ICKR. 'M C H A P. VI. Bails fur the IVtJl Indies^ I'ak^s a pri%e on llx p^llP'gC' Ceremony in crojftng the Tropic* ylrrivL's at ydWincn. Sonic dcjcription of iii fif nation, Threatened ivith invaften. 1 I IK froll and bolftcrous weather of Ame- rica beginning to let in, on tlic lotliof Novem- ber 1781, the London weighed anchor from Sandy Hook, and proceeded to the fouth-caft with a ftrong northerly wind. Kor fevcrnl days wc rowled through a very high Tea, and though a three decker, ufed every precaution to prevent fhi japing water on our main deck. On the 1 2th we were in the parallel of the Bermudas or Summer Iflands. Thcfc are a clufterof fmall Iflands, in latitude 32*^, 30 N. longitude 65^, 10 W. lying five hundred miles % % .,*.-,- ■■'^ ' H VOYAGES AND TRAVELS miles to the eaftward of Charles Town. The inhabitants arc defcendants of the Englilh, and are remarkahle for building faft failing veilels, thereby giving rife to an old fea phrafe, viz. that fuch a (hip fails like a Mudian, meaning Bermudian ; many of them are expert fea- men, and good pilots. The numerous rocks that furround them prcferve the Iflands from attacks, as fmce their firft fcttlcmcnt they have continued fubjedt to the Britilh crown. Continuing our courfc to the fouthward, on the evening of the 1 3th we perceived a large ihip lying too, giving chafe at night-fall, came up with, and took her; (he was a French merchant (hip of upwards of fix hundred tons burthen, called the L' Imperieux had a very valuable cargo, and was bound to Philadelphia. Her crew conlillcd of about three hundred men, and having touched at Cadiz, were many of them infcded with a certain diforder, that en- crcafmg by fatigue, confinement, and fait provi- fions, now exhibited the moft wretched ap- pearance ; and as they had been kept from their l^ort by the late llorms, would probably have pcriihed, I i^iJt fwv*^ or A SEA OFIICER. G: pcriilied by famine, had we not taken them ; their provilions being ahnofl out. An officer and a party of fcainen were lent on board her, and getting; a hawler on board, took the prize in tow. The humanity of our furgeon (Dodor Young) received full employ- ment in reftoring many of our prifoners to health ; but many died, and others could bear tcftimony during their lives of the diforder they had fuffered. Approaching the Wed Indies, the warmth of climate we now felt, ilrongly contrafted the fevere cold on the coaft of America; and the tranfition was fudden from the quicknefs of our paflage. This change of climate alio fubjeded us to a change in the diforders inci- dent to a fliip's crew ; for inftead of our Ame- rican foe, the fcurvy, we were now to cxpcd fluxes, fevers, and agues, which were preven- ted by the care taken by Captain Kempthorn, in keeping clean both ihip and men. Crofling the northern Tropic, in latitude 231° N. an indifpenfible naval ceremony *4 f 66 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS is was performed, viz. a vifit from Neptune, tci collcdl his tribute from the green-horns, or thoib who had never croflcd the Tropic I'ne The performance of this comic fccne is left to the funnieft Tailors, who chooling fome droll and clever fellow, he is fecretly drefled in a moft laughable ftile, to reprel'ent Neptune^ whilli another in a female attire, ads as his wife. In the mean time his attendants being properly arrayed to attend this fca God, he iiTiies forth, and mounting on the fore-caftle, as if jull coine out of the Tea, hails the quarter- deck with a fpeakirig trumpet, which being aafwered, he is drawn upon a carriage before the cDotiiin, and iccpferts his permifhon to ex*- a-nine thofe who had never crofled the line, and to coUett hi:; tribute. This being permitted, hs rcfpedltully v/aits on th: officers firft, and I being among his tributaries gave a dollar. A lUl has been prepar^-d of tiic lailors or lands- uicn >^ho arc liable to thir> tax, and in cafe they refufe payment, mull undergo the opcra- tioii of being (haved. The operation is thuS perfnmit'd, a liirp;e ma::cl"i-tab is tilled with wa:er, an.l acK^ls is laid a liavidi'jilke or bar of wood J OF A SEA OIl-lCER 67 wood, on which the patient fits, and bcino; covered with a hithci", not compofcd of the iwctteft ingredients, a ihaver drelTed In the , monky attire of a fcppifli Paril'in, performs his part with a piece of iron hoop ; when the handfpike heing hauled away, tlie patient rc- femhHng parfon Adams at the Squire's, falls backward into the tub, and getting out, is again drenched by many buckets of water thrown over him by failors who ftand ready to receive him. The nioney colle£ted is referved for a treat among ihofe fea gods, on their arrival in port. We had now arrived to the trade winds, that between the tropics blew conftantly from the caftward, occafioned by the motion of the earth on its axis from weft to eaft ; and on the latter part of November came in fight of the ifland of Antigua. This ifland lies in la- titude 17^, 30 N. longitude 62° one-lifth W. being one of thofc circular chain of illands diiVmguiihed by the name of Weft Indies. It produces great quanllties of excellent fugar, belides the various plants and fruits natural to 1 a 6S VOYAGES AND TRAVELS a warm climate. Here are few or no fpringfJ, obliging the inhabitants to prefervc the water that tails during the rainy months in cifterns, or to fetch it in cufks from the neighbouring illands. It is in pnlfcirion of the Englifh, and lias two h;ul)ours, one called Kn^lilli Harbour, where the men of war lie, the other St. John's, that carries on a eonfidcrable trade from the capital of that name, built at the bottom of the harbour. U Having received a pilot on board, we hauled round the fouthcrn part of Antigua, and with the prize anchored in St, John's Harbour* Our fhip was foon furrounded with canoes, filled with negro men and women, who came to difpofc of fruit, fuch as pine apples, melons, oranges, guavas, cocoa nuts, bananas, plain- tains, &c. Their black and odd appearance much divirted us ; nor was it unpleafmg to re- mark, that though flaves, they prefervcd a lively and joyous difpofition, and in general are healthy and uncommonly witty. To C OF A SEA OFFICER. 6^ To what extent the period and praftice cf the ilave trade will arrive is hard to conjee* ture ; but every country circumfcribed in its limits as Britain is, muft, to counterbaliancc the more weighty defign* of her continental neighbours, have recourfe to thofe ftratagem* of con^merc^, the offsprinjj of momentary ne~ ceffity ; but, it is by time and its efTcds, that the validity of thofe meafures can be proved ; and though in that contcft of opinion lately exerted on this traffic of human flefh, humanity has fufficiently pointed out the depravity of the cuftom, yet the critical fituation of England, depending on univerfal circulation of trade, couM at this moment fcarcely afford that much wHhcd for emancipation of the negroes, with- out a rifquc of the diminution of h^r finances. .'■». The L^Impcrieux was given in charge to. an agent, and having landed our prifoners (except a band of muficians) after a few days (lay weighed anchor, and with a favoura- ble wind ftecred towards the ifland of Jamaica. Qn Qur paflage we paflTed in fi^ht of feveral iflauds i:^-,«i^v.-<:!^!rr. ■^t'' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 1.0 I.I 1.25 us US Itt |2B 1^ in IIIIM 1 2.0 1.8 1.4 — 5" <^ /a «^''.«.°V ■^ «»' '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WES'i \AAIN STREET Wf?,$TER,N.Y. 14580 (7U) 872-4503 \ •NJ \\ "% V "^'^^ 6^ -ii^ r/a :\ ""^ VOYAGES AND TRAVELS iflands, viz. St. Euftacius, St. Chriftopher*s, Nevis, and the Spanilh illand of Port Rica Sailing along the fouth fide of St. Domingo, arrived the middle of January at Jamaica, and anchoring in the harbom'of Port Royal, joined the fquadron commanded by Admiral Sir Peter Parker. Jamaica, fituated 37 miles to the fouth ward of the Spanifh ifland of Cuba, is about 1 69 miles in length, and 50 in breadth; it was firlV difcovered by Columbus, in the year 1494, and remained in the pofle/Tion of the Spaniards 'till taken by the commanders Penn, and Ve- nables, in the year 1656, at the time of the commonwealth under Oliver Cromwell. It has fmce continued under Englifh government, an 1 from the richnefs and abundance of its crops, is the principal of our Weft India iflands. A range of lofty hills called the Blue Mountains run from eaft to weft, and add to that roman- tic appearance which throughout the year is beautified with perpetual verdure. The num- ber of iuliabitants may exceed two hundrcij thousand, %r- •'*«^^:L^Li. ■;: ":t-. f OF A SEA OFFICER. /I iKoufand, one fourth of which are whites, befides mullattoes, and the other different cafts of colour between the white and black ; the reft confifting of the negroes, who are moftly flaves on the different plantations. Seafons in this climate are diflinguifhed by the dry or the rainy feafone, for the rain during the autumn falling in great quantities, prepares the foil for two harvefts during the year. The hurricane months are July, Au- ■guft, and September, and frequently deftroy b} their havoc the work or produce of many years. It produces abundance of fruits, and having plenty of cattle, is efteemed by failors a defirable ftation, particularly during war, ^when its central fituation caufcs its ports to be filled with fhips taken from the French or Spaniards. The capital of the ifland was Spanifh Town, and where the governor yet. refjdes ; but Kingfton is larger, and of more importance from the trade it carries on, being built at the head of Port Royal harbour. il .1! "i; h - i ,% Tl ic ^ ^t:. . fiJ 71 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS The government of Jamaica is next to that of Ireland, confidercd as the beft in the gift of the crown, and the naval command in th^ time of vrar is exceedingly lucrative. At this time the Spaniards were coUeding * confiderable force at the Havanna, and the preparations at Cape Frangois^ the capital port of Saint Domingo, threatened an attack ou Jamaica. Several regiments then on the ifland^ and the miJitia, might amount to about 8000 mcnj a force fufficient to refill a fudden cap- ture, but not adequate to hold long againft the ftorm that feemed gathering, Our naval force was too weak to prevent a landing, yet the Admiral forming the few line of battle ftiipi acFofs the entrance of Port Royal ha^rbQur, await^ the event. C H A P. *-v>-'-**'-^ *, ^* ** ■ •-«.-4j>^itVW*^='*^»V sr A SEA OFFICER. 73 il CHAP. VII. -n pmaKa relieved by the arrival rf the fleet and pnv^s under Sir George Rodney. The ^«. thorjotm the Tobago /loop of war, andfaih on a cruize of Hifpaniola. T X HE latter part of April ,782 ftveral line ot battle (hips appeared in fight to the eaftward, and foon after we received the agreeable intel- ligence that Sir George Rodney had, on the 1 2th of April, totally defe«ed the French, and that thofe fliips approaching Port Royal were the prizes accompanied by part of his fleet. Their arrival confirmed this account, and Sir George foon appearing in fight, converted the fuipence of our former fituation, into fin- ' cere joy for the fuccefs of Britifli arms. For the middle of February 1782 the French gained poireffion / 1 % 1 ¥ |i ^ * !l'! u r ^wiciL 74 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS polTenion of the ifland of St. Chriftopher's, after a gallant defence of Brlmftone-hill under ganeral Frazer ; and though every praifc was due to the br.ivery and Ikill of Sir Samuel Hood, who with an inferiour force oppofed the defigns of the Count De GraflTe, yet the French accomplifhed their views, by the reduc- tion of the two neighbouring iflands, Nevis, and Mount Serrat* The attack upon Jamaica was now refolved on, and to co-operate with the! Spariifh fleet, and troops that were collected in Hifpaniola and Cuba, the Count Da Grafle ufed his ut- moft power to colledl every poflible force, and effc£t a junction. At this crifis the arri- val of twelve fail of the line, under Sir George Rodney, at Barbadoeson the 19th of February, feemed as if fortune, anxious for the prefervation of the Britifh poffeffions, favour- ably interpofed by fending this reinforcement to tlie Weft India fleet under Sir Samuel Hood ; and by rendering more equal the fleets (.ncach fide, to load with higher honour the deficion of the conreft. The 1 . OF A SEA OJFFICER. 7^ The 12th of April the fleets met, when the decifive proofs of vi^ory app. arcd, by the arrival of the French prizes at Port Royal • thefe were, * Shipj. Guns. Men. LaVillede Paris, nol^*^™- Count! LcGIoricux. ";;^ -«-».] '300 L'Heaor, -, ■ 7Si L Ardent, g^ With the Le Caton, 64 60 And Le Jafon, 64 Ukenln the Mona Paflkge, after the „th. The Le C*far 74, was alfo taken, but was fct on fire by forae accidtnt and burnt. This aaion. though I had not the honour to beprelent at, yet affords partlcufar fatisfaffion confidenng the honour thereby contributed' to the Bntifh flag, and particularly to my former Captain, Sir Edmund Affleck ; who being ',( .1 h. y U I .J*-*^ 76 VOYAGES and TRAVELS being Commodore, commanded his divifion with an eclat that well merited the thanks of the Houfe of Commons. ' ' ' '■' ? K ,, P The largeft fleet of men of war that ever was at Jamaica, was now anchored in the har- bour of Port Royal, and the inhabitants of Jamaica .hereby were not only pleafed at their happy relief, but were anxious to ihew un- bounded hofpitality and gratitude to their pro- testors, amongft whom was Prince William Henry ; who in adding to the crown of kurcls formed for Sir George, began glorioufly a commencement of that wreath, which I hope he may long wear, with honour to himfelf and country. . , Admiral Graves failed for England in the Rammillies 74, when Rear Admiral Rowley hoifted his flag on board the London, and foon after failed to cruize off Cape Tiberoon, the weftern Cape of the ifland of Saint Domingo. We had in company the Le Prothie 64, the Refource, La Fortunee, and Pallas Frigates. Ilae chief cVjed of the cniize was, to inter- cept OP A SEA OFFICER. 77 ctpt any ©f the French crippled fhips, that might by this paffagc attempt gaining the port* of Cape Frattfohy or Port au Prince, ^' I One night, being the midihipnifsn who commanded on the fore-caftle, during the middle watch, the weather being moderate, I leaned againft the fore-maft, and liftened to the (lories of the failors. On a fudden it thundered very loud, and a flafh of lightning fplit from head to heel the very maft I flood againft. I received a violent fhock, and fell down unable to ftir, while the Iparks from the maft, beginning to take fire, fell on me, the failors were difperfed like fo many balls 5 when re- covering from the fhock, they foon extin^ guifhed the fire, I was carried below by two men, nor 'till four hours after, recovered the ufe of my limbs. The noifc of thunder that accompanied the lightning was fo loud, that it was thought the fhip was blown up. The fore-top-maft was alfo fhivered, and as it was impoflibk to keep the fea, the Admiral bore away for Jamaica, and foon after arrived at Port Royal, During u w W.-V-- ,f k 78 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS During this cruize our fleet in the harbout of Port Royal narrowly efcaped being burnt, for a large fhip laden with cables and (lores took fire, and breaking from her moorings at the wharfs that lay to windward, drifted among the fleet, and had not every precaution been taken, would have deftroyed many of our fined veflTels. ii 1] The hurricane fcafon approaching. Sir George manned the French prizes, and dividing the fleet into fquadrons, in the middle of Au- guft rendevouzed in the harbour of Blue-fields, lying to the fouth fide of the ifland, to the weftward of Port Royal. They foon after proceeded through the Gulf ftream, and the French Ihips being fafely accompanied to a orthern latitude, fleered for England, while -lie body of the fleet returned to the Weft In- dies, under Sir Samuel Hood. ^ ^ The Admiral that I had been recommended to failed for Europe, and having received letters to Admiral Pigot, who was expelled to take the command, 1 requefted the pcrmiflion of Admiral A OP A SEA OFFICER. 79 Admiral Rov*'lcy to join him ; and in anfwer was gracioufly promifed every certainty of promotion if I continued on the Jamaica (laticn. This promife from fo worthy a man, was flat- tering to a young officer, and I foon after joined the Tobago of 1 6 guns, copper bottomed, and commanded by Captain George Martin, a nephew to Admiral Rowley. ^ kV Sir Peter Parker in the autumn failec' for England in the Sandwich of 90 guns, leaving the Jamaica ftation under the command of Admiral Rowley. le If We were foon difpatched on a cruize, and in Odtober arrived in the bite of Leogan, a . deep bay formed at the cg,|l end of Hifpaniolu, ^''^Jil. having the French port of Port au Prince fitu- ated at its head. We here fell in with a fmall Spanifli floop laden with mahogany planks, and a conilderable number of dollars, which were foon divided, and the mahogany being ufelefs to us, we funk the floop, and Handing to the northward, worked to windward, and gained Cape Francois, This port carries on a confidcrablc i ) f 80 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS S confidcrable trade, and is of great importance, by receiving the French cruizers and men of war. From hence we came in fight of Monte Chriilo, a high Cape, feme leagues to the caftward of Cape Frangois, We had the fatif- faction to find our Captain poffeffcd of every amiable quality that could endear him to his officers, and fhip's company ; though promoted very young to the rank of Captain, he pur- fued thofc meafures that were the refult of experience, and on every occafion difplayed an enterprifmg courage that did honour to his ftation. The Tobago had been taken from the Ame- ricans, and in our fervice carried 1 6 fix-poun- ders, and was fhcathed with copper, a prac- tice lately introduced into the Britifli navy, and particularly adapted for the Weft Indies, whofe feas are fubjedt to worms, that, entering into the unfheathed bottoms of fhips, fheltei' themfelves in a hard cafe, and by degrees eat- ing through, make the hull like a honey-comb, and liable to leak. The copper prevents this, and is alfo fcrviccable by remaining clean, hereby ^^■*». V— - .. t^- OF A SEA OFFICER. Si hereby rendering a veflTd, after being long abroad, to prefcrve her original fwiftncfs of failing, that is much impeded by barnicles, grafs, or marine cxcrcfcences, that wooden iheathings are covered with on long voyages. At firft this method was unfavourable, by cor- roding with verdigreafe the iron bolts that ft- cure the hull ; to prevent this, (heets of brown paper, well tared, are laid under the copper ; or clfe the bolts arc formed of a compofition calculated to withftand the corroding quality of the verdigreafe. Our fhip failed exceedingly well, frequently failing at the rate of nine miles an hour, when clofe hauled to the wind^ljind during a calm or very moderate wcathcrA Every at- tention was paid to improve the men in the ufe of fwecps, or large oart. Our method was thus : a fw eep or oar was run out of trvery portnhole, and the gun being removed out of its way, the oar was fecured by a circular rope called a beckit. To each oar we placed four men. And having i6 ports, could ufe fo many oars. A boatfwain*s mate flood at the nwiu hatch-way with his J\ '^fffi>immmv' m il " '** '*''^. ' V ^2 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS '■' \ K \' i hi? pips, when the bladej; of the oars be- ing brought forward, at the found of the pipe were at once dipped in the water, and drawing a fteady flroke, raifed the oars, and being again ready, waited the found of the pipe. This prefer^«d a regularity, and by de- grees trained our crew to that perfe<^ion, that though upwards of above three hundred tons burthen, they could row her at the rate of three miles an hour. I am particular in mentioning this manouvre, from being perfe6tly convinced of its utility, and not having feen it pra6tifed by fm.all cruizers in general. By this means feven days after taking the Spanifli floop, we cap- tured a large floop from Cape Franfois^ bound to America, loaded with fugar and coffee: for being off Monte Chrifto, we perceived her in fhore, and the wind falling, could not have prevented her running on fliorc, 'till getting out the fweeps, gained on her, when firing our ohafe guns, obliged her to flrike. A party of feamen under the command of Mr. Philip Beaver, (fmce a lieutenant in the fervice) went on board, and fafely conducted her to Ja- maica Continuing t. I ^ -•^SH^ if^ ^"^••^•' '^i Of A SEA OFFICER. 83 Continuing to cruize, fix days after came in fight of a brig, when giving chafe, took her ; Ihe proved a Spanifti veflel, bound from Cadiz to the Havanna, with a cargo of flour, wine, and oil, that in the Weft Indies are very- valuable articles. She had feveral palfengers on board, and though made prifoners, were rendered happy by the humanity of Captain Martin. 5 Steering to the eaftward, in the middle of Oftober arrived in the Mona Paflage, lying between the fmall uninhabited iflands of Mona> and Monique, and the eaftern cape of St. Domingo. My former fhip the London had here lately engaged a French 74, and though the French- -man carried his point by running himfelf on fhore ; yet the well known abilities and cou- rage of captain Kempthorn could never juftly be queftioned, becaufe his an«"agonift flipped out of his hands. In this engagement I loft an old xr.cflT-mate a Mr. Mowatt, one of her midlhip* men j he was a young man, much refpedted snd loved, but fate cannot be removed, for h being ■^^^-T- H VOYAGES AND rRAVELS being Rationed during the aflion on the lower gun deck, a hand grenade entered one of the port-hole^, and burfting, Tent him to attend hh quarters in the other world. The luxuriant and wooded appearance of the cxtenfive ifland of St. Domingo, fervcd to enliven our cruize, and the appearance of every ftrangc fail, at once gave rife to exertion and tb hope. When the time of cruizing being ex- pired, we direded our courfc for Jamaica, (leering along the fouth fide of the ifland, that being inhabited by French and Spaniards, is known by two names. The northern or French diftriit is called St. Domingo, and the fouthcrn or Spaniih territory, Hifpaniola. This ifland extends from caft to weft, four hundred and twenty-fix miles, and 124 miles in breadth from north to fouth. It was one of the iflands firft difcovered by Columbus, and in thofe days fomc gold was found on it, but at prcfent its richnefs confifts in plantations of fugar, to- bacco, and cotton, particularly on the northern part, which is better cultivated and inhabited than the Spiiniih qu.ii ter. From this ifland we . - came i o» 4 SEA OFFICER. 85 . < '4 came in fight of the fmall flat ifland of Navafa, lying a few leagues to the weftward of Cape Tiberoon, and continuing our courfe, came in fi|;ht of Januica, and arrived at Port R©yaJ, iTT CHAP. 86 VOYAGES \ND TRAVELS CHAP viir. T/je Tobago fails on an expedition to the Muf- quito Jhore, jfoins the Indians, The Spa-^ niards furrender the fort at Black River. Returns to Jamaica, UUR prizes being fold, enabled us by the prize-money, to partake of the amufements at Jamaica, particularly at the town of King- fton , where the different coloured beauties of white's, meftees, mulattoes, and quadroons, gayly adorned by the liberality of the times, attracted the attention of numerous admirers. Their balls were lively and brilliant, and the en- tertainments of Kingfton could no where be exceeded ; the ifland producing beef, mutton, fowl, turtle, abundance of fifli on its coafts, alfo a variety of fruits and excellent wines, either taken from the French, or brought from Madeira. The country round Kingfton is exceedingly QF A SEA OFFICER. 87 I 5, exceedingly beautiful, well cultivated, and ador- ned by the villas of the planters or mer- chants, who in thefe parts live in a fupcriour degree of fplendour. Thefe fcenes we doubly enjoyed, when contrafted with the confine- ment of a fhip ; but as all pleafures are Iranfi- ent, our Ihip being equipped, joined a fmall fquadron under the command of Commodore Parry, in the Adason of 44 guns, deftined to the relief of pur fettlement at Black River, on lie Mufquit'> (hore. In December 1782, the fquadron weighed anchor from Port Royal harbour, and fteering to the fouth-weft, in a few days came in fight ®f the fmall ifland of Providence, in latitude 1 2°, 45 N. longitude, 8 1 ° 30 W. It is about 150 miles to the eaftward of the Mufquito fhore, and formerly ferved as a reuoevouz to the Englifh pirates and buccaneers, who en- couraged by the advantage of its fituation to plunder the Spaniards in thefe parts, fortified it, and carried on thofe devcftations, that though accompanied with the greateft valour, gave too frequent proofs of the greateft inhu- , ^ ( humanity \ f 88 VOYAGES A MO TRAVELS humanity. From hence ftccring to the eaft- ward, arrived at the bay of cape Gratias-a^ Dios, on the Muiqulto Ibore. The Mufquito fhore is a tra£l of the fouthern part of North America, between the 13th and 15th degrees of north latitude, bounded on the north and eaft by the fea, on the weft by Honduras, and on the fouth by the province of Nicaragua. The natives are the aboriginal In* dians, and exafperated at the cruehies com- mitted by the Spaniards on their firft arrival in America, have fuccefsfully oppofed their at- tacks, and enjoy independance. This country produces mahogany, logwood, &c. and from the partiality of the Indians in favour of the Englifh, permit and encourage our fettlements^ the principal one was near Black River, where a fort was ereded, that had been lately at- tacked and taken by the Spaniards. The Bay we now lay in was fo called by Chriftopher Columbus, for on getting a fa.- vourable wind, he exclaimed, Gratias-a-Dios ! fignifying in Spanifli, ibani^ to God* Its ftiorcs arc covered with wood, interfered with paftures,. OF A SEA OFFICER, 89 . paftures, and the villages of the Indians^ who were aifembling to accompany the expedition under their chief^ a young man calling him- felf Prince George, from his affection to the Britifh fovereign. Their naval force confifted of large canoes, called Petiaquas, commanded by his brother, entitled Admiral Richard ; he was a hearty pleafant fellow, and on his vifits on board did not preferve the hauteur of our commanders; for loving rum, he frequently condefcended to drink a glafs of grog with us midihipmen. In the m«an time the fquadron watered, and in a few excurfions on Ihore, we had an opportunity to vifit the Indian villages ; the houfes are at a fmall diftance from each other, fupported by pofts ingenioufly roofed, and the fides formed of wicker-work extending from poft to poft; the interiour fpace is clean, with a ufeful though fmall quantity of furnkure, and their hammocks extendinjj from fide to fide. The Indians arc of a middle ftature, very robuft and aftive, of a dark copper colour, with thick long black ^ir ; they arc very dex- trous V / 1 ».u.".' -•viH'-^W^**^ .-<5S.- 90 VOYAGJilS AND 1 RAVKLS % '• irons in hunting and throwing the dart, thougji many of them arc armed with good mufiiuets. Their aj;ility even in war is great, for tliough they may be inferiour to the regidar attack of the well difciplincd troops of Europe, yet, hordcring on the Spanilh territories, they are kept in a continual (late of warfare, and prc- ferve an hereditary hatred to their invaders, whom they diftinguiHi !)y the name of — /l/f/v hf'cccbcs, — They arc well behaved, and fccm to maintain good fcllowfliip, without the af- iiilancc of the vohmiinous Europeai\ works maimers, wliich are too poll good \ frcoireirK)n of the fcttic- mcnt ; for if they had withllood an attack, the Indians would have butchered every man th#y found, and it even now recjuired great exertion to j>rcvcnt the eonfequcnecs of their rclentment. V One of the Icpiadron, tlie Jamaica brig, commanded by Captain Manly Dixon, cap- tured a Polacre brig,towardsTruxiro Bay,with Spaniili troops on board, intended as a rein- forcement to the fort at Black River. The Tobago had feveral of the prifoners put on board, among whom was an elderly gentleman a Spanifli officer, with whom I formed an in- timacy, and by his inilrudions received im- M provemcnt 91. VOVAlMS \Nt' IKAVI 1 !; K ' .\ ,/ 1.^ r |Mrnrinrnt \\\ \\\c S\y,\\\\{]\ \.\\\y\\.\yr. \\v\\\^\ i\\\ \\'\i\\\\\,\\\^ lu" hnn»«»lrtl I \\,\» -A tnin:iM \\\~ tholi«, or i\«« h« »'\|MrllcMl it, t/fi h/ftf ('f i/fiiino\ h[\\ wlu n inloi mumI I \v;\h nnt umltM \m llcli nols's l>.\niuM, lu" WUH ton iMUv h ol ;« |>ltilnl«»plHi ti» tl\(»on(innr hin lii(Mu1ll\ip: lor S(rinr*« iiwjuiiiil i»l(»;», tM rvrry innn liMinj', In.^ hnMty h'Mli', is, in 1UV o]Mi\inn, alio i\pplir;\l)l(' to rc- on out n rpoilivo pMtlis, io n\nil< thrluMtoi, :tltl»on)',l\ ptiilU oi divincH \\\.\\ ]\u\)\v o\\\c\\\'\\r ; Intt nn tluv :iti' inoir intcnllnl in tin* nuiltrt tl\;tn I |»oHiMyt;n» \h\ \ \]\.\\\ tluvctoic lllOp ii)1\ivC A lul>)iCl. T.r.-witir, Ui.uk RivtM, t'\c l\|n;\iln)n anivcd ;n ;»lt( Mwniils ;\v'v»>nnls woic icicivnl lioin rny;l.n\il i>i tho lots ol tlto Royal (icorgo, willi Adn\ital Kcn\|>rnlolt aiiil ctcw at Spit head ; alio of the dilpovlioii of the Hcct that with the pn/esl\ad lailed tor Ivimipe. They experi- < need one oi thole l\eavv gales oi vviiul, that on X\\c weilcvw oecan, aicotieii an over nialeh lor the 1- •• v*» ••.->-.■.*>. rt-^t or A SI A oriici'K. 01 (lie •cri- i( on \ lor the rlir noiitfO (hipq, or flic i llorfq n\' tlir irioff Ikilliill (r;mi('ih 'llir l.,'i Villr Dr IVm m (oiiM (Irlrd, ;m»l in;iiiy ol iiiy lor fiif r l»f nflicr olfirfU IMiilluMl ill licr. Tlir liC II»'('|f»r 74, wifli (iilliciiify K Milled Ilitlilix, lor tlic o Ifirrrs mkiI fliip's (MMiipjiiiy were almoll rxlimillcd liy (oii- timiiil |mii»|rm^'; ; mikI tlioii^^li ;itt}i( kcd l»y n I'NMii li Iri^^itr, l)c;«t h or oil', and ^'/»t info porf. riicCIrntaiir 74, comrFiiindcd l>y (i.iptaiii h»- j^Jrlirld, roimdcrrd, mikI tlic (!npt;iiri, flir m;if- trr, i\ inidlliipiti;in with ;i few men, wrrr rni- ' i;m iiloidly hived in flie pinnace, and whrn a» ;i Ihorl dillance Irnni the (hip, witnefled her loin hy heaiin)"; the hill ( ries ot her crew. The oliii cm find men lindinj'; it iin[)ofhhle to krep hci( lr;ir, and worn out hy (onllant j)nfiipin^^, they patiently waited their late, when drclfin^^, in their hell (loath';, the olhccrs joinefi iti one lall and melancholy meal. This acc(;unt waH ^';iven hy ( 1 iptain Inidedeld, after hi-; for- timale arrival at the A/.orc'^ or welfern ill a d». The crew ot the Rannnillies 74, after increch- le pinn|iR, when a few hein^^ hie fall iirne left tl cncoura}';ed hy lonie of the olhcers, returned to their l.il^oir, and l;e|)t her ahr)ve water, 't\]\ i oinr I ) I I* • ' 'I ^ :/ ) lit i If 94 VOVAdKS AND TRAVia.S foinr mcnh.iiu ihips hoavinc; in light, rccclvccl ihc mm oil bo.iril, who iinincdkilcly after law their Ihip [y) to the hottom. 'I'liclc diraflcrs, hefules occMlion'm^i!; uncali- nclstomanv iiuUv'uhials, was alio a Icvcrc U)\\, (o their country; hut, in liirh extenlive arina- nicnls as l^ritain war, ohligcd to I'cntl forth, fomcacciilciits muii have hccn cxpedlcil ; for if the perils of lawd arc great, the dangers of an immencc ocean are conlidtiahly greater. In May the Tohago again failed on a cruize in company with Icveral frigates under Captain Cotton in the Alarm. Wc paflcd through the palVagc called the PifJ/hgc of the Gulf Ji ream y that run nine: hctwecn the well end of the ifland of Cuha and the main land, fcts to the N. E. along the coall of North America. We foon came in figlit of the Havanna, lying to the north-weil of the illand of Cuha, oppofitc to Florida ; it is in latitude 23*^ north, longitude £4^ 10 \V. Its harbour is fufficiently fpacious to contain a thoufand veflels, and yet its mouth is fo narrow that only one fliip can enter at a time ; 1) o^ A SEA OlllCI'.U. 9S Jinic ; hero the ^iillcotis iVom Porto Bcllo, and Lii Vcr.i (Irii/ ; alio all vctlcls tVoin the Spaivilh Icttlcinciils n.Midcvoii/ on their return to Spain. The town is well built, anil near three milej* in eircunilercnee, and is the eaj)ital of tlic inand. 'The liarlxjur is well dei'eniied, yel; was takci\ by the iMipjlilli under Admiral Sir George Pocoek, in the year 1762, after a very obllinate defenee ; it was rcdored to Spain l)y the treaty of pea^e \'/(\]y mid has reeeived additional lUenj.'jth by lunncrous forts and batteries fnice ere«lled. We here met with a few inconliderable prizes, antl a I'reneh brig, hiden with knn her from the I'reneh fettlemcnt 4)f New Orleans, on the river Mifliflipy. The fcpiadron liad alio a brulh witli three Ameri- eaii frigates, when fomc Ihips heaving in light, and fupj)onng them enemies, we iliecrcd off, and Handing to the northward, palled through the palTage called the windward pajfu^c ; between the low fandy iflands to the northward of St. Domingo. We tlienec ftccred for Jamaica, and fpeaking a veflcl from England, reeeived the intelligence of peace being pro- claimed. This was a death blow to the hopes of thofc young oflicers wlio, luving nearly fcrved 96 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS i f, (h i: \ I fervecl their time of fix years fcrvice^ were on the brink of receiving their reward. I was among the unfortunate number, and faw my I'd f deprived of that promotion, I had looked up to. But fortune has been fo often blamed, that it would be unjuft to revile her ; and hoping for a more favourable fate in the revolution of time, prepared to revifit my native country. Moft of my l)rother officers were cither drowned on their return to Europe, or fell vidims to the flital fevers of this cli- mate ; and catching a violent fever, was in- debted to a change of climate for my efcape; and arriving among the hofpitable maniions of my country, contributed to re-eftablilh my health, that in his Majelly's fcrvice had been conliderably impaired. By this peace America gained her indepen- dence, and loft an example for all governments to coiiridc'*, //a:/ faxc's becoj7iiNg burthens^ can toufc ihc fp'u'it of a people ; alfo to ivithjland the arbit f\:ry fcmptrJ!o?is of ii giddy moment^ at- tentlon Jhould finzufy he pud to the proper rights cf Mj7u For belklcs the above inlbincc, it in ! OF A SEA OFFICER. 97 ill Ibine degree led to the glorious emancipa- tion of liciand, and forming a bright period in her hiftory, where the union of her natives promifed a profperitytotheir country,that oijy the machinations of Satan, on his old pretence of difference of religion, can deftroy ; but the rock flie has too often fplit on ought care- fully to be avoided, as by means of that re- ligious tub v^re are divirted from the danger, ^ill, divided, yf^ are reduced to flavcs. CHAP. ■~f"T-*^' ■ JitmmkMmi I A 7» f 98 VOYAGES AND TRAVlil-S i iv C H A t* IX. /v Embarks on a cruise up the Mediterranean, Reviftts Gibraltar^ and arrives at Smyrna, ' • I ■fl H AVING recovered the fatigue of my former voyages in experiencing the hofpitahty of the county of Meath, and after a few- trips in the Irifli channel in tlie Spring of 1785, I arrived in London, intending to pafs my examination for a Ueutenant, and finding two months of the time unexpired, determined in the mean time to take a cruize up the Me- diterranean, and heing charged with fomc dif- patches to the Britiih Conful at Tripoly, on the coail of Syria, took my paffage in «i Turkey trader called the Smyrna, Captain Emanuel Seward, hound to Smyrna, and to touch at Gibralter. In July we weighed an- chor and proceeded down the Thames to Gravcfend, 7 4 ',vi ,'7;flB>i OF A SKA Ol riCER. ^^ CJravelcndjand thciicc doubling tlic north fore- land, anchored in the Oowns. Wc here re- ceived on board three gentlemen for Gibralter, ii Mr. Savory, enfign Finlay, of the lith, and lieutenant Wade, of the 25th regiment. Steering down the Knglifh channel, anchored in Torbay, and having procured a fufficlent quantity of lloek for the voyage, we again iet fail, fleering for the Bay of Bif-^ay, w^here we found that heavy rowling fea this Bay hat always been noted for : having doubled Cape Finifterre,we were favoured by afrefli northerly wind, and failing quickly paft the coail of Portugal, entered the Streights, and the latter part of July arrived at Gibralter, after a plca- fant paiTage of 14 days, fmcc the Smyrna left the Thames. The havoc occafioned by the fiege was dil- tcrnable from the ruined fituation of the town, and the innumerable cannon balls and burftcd bumb-fhells that almoft covered the northern (urfacc of the rock. The attention of General Elliot was now direded to reftorc the works to their former perfedion, and to cncrcafe the N ftrength A) ^imm^^imm. MS Tl k I \\ \ ' roc vov Ac;i':s and trave rs rtrcnjHh of a toitrris, that h;ul To brilliantly (hewn idcH ii\iprrgtul>le. To the very fuiu- intt ol the n>ck an cxecUcnt road whcrcoti two co\il(l ride a-breall was coniplcatcd, and to- wards V'uropa lV)int, an cxtcnlivc plaec ot parade was nearly nnilhcd. A vcllel with a divinj;-hrll was eni|)lovcd in icarching for the gnns, ^e. that hail hecn funk in the Spanilh floating batteries, aiul many were found half melted by the conliagralion, The fame Arid difeipline was preferved as d\n ing the fiege, and at 6 o'clock every morn- ing, the troops for the day's duty were re- viewed by the Cteueral. I had the honour to be introduced to him on parade, and had the pleafurc to receive an invitation to dinner the next day, when arriving at head (juarters found an cxeelle t entertainment, and a company of l^xteen principal oHicers. The General cat no meat, and though he abftained from wine, joined in high fpirits the conviviality of his tabic ; twice in the ye^r only he drank a glafs nt wine, one on his Majcfty's birth-day, the r>thcr on that of the Queen's. I had alio the plcafurc i or A SEA ori'ICER. lot pleafurc. uf meeting mntiy old fchool-fcllows among the officers, and experienced the great* til ha[)pincrs in the hofpitality 1 received. The middle of Anguft the Smyrna weighed anchor, and fleering to the caftward, pro- ceeded up the Mediterranean. The fecond tnate had been left fick at Gibraltar, and I fupplicd his place. Sailing along the fouthern coall of Spain, paffed by Malaga, and from Cape de Gatt fleered for the foiith end of the idand of Sardinia, which wc came in fight uf on the loth. It lies in latitude 37** 40 N. Umpitudc £8° E. it is 140 milei in length from north to fouth, and 80 in breath from cafl to wefl : it has a rocky appearance, yet is fruitful in its produOions. "^riic government is under the Duke of Savoy. Erom hence, with a frclh wcllcrly wind wc dircdcd our coUrfc for Sicily the following day. This ifland wai in fight, and Handing to the fouthward, entered the channel of Malta, which ifland we dif- covcrcd a few leagues on the flarboard hand ; on the left was Mount Etna, which is upwards of 60 miles in circumference at its bafe,and rifes gradually Pc-^clf jc N. W. Hir.tory Dopt. PROVINCIAL LJuJRARY VICTOWA, B. C. ■ ^mm I i' 11 t f» 102 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS gradually to an amazing height, and though we plainly faw its fummit covered with fnow, it fent forth quantities of fmokc. The natives called it Monte Gibel, iignifying Mount of Mounts, Though the full is an Italian, and the latter word Gibel an Arabic word, meaning mountain. Steering to the north-eaft, came in fight of the rockey fouthern extremity of Italy, called Calabria ; its appearance in the map rcpreicnts a leg and foot, as if directed to kick Sicily through the Streights of Gibral- tar, "^riiis forms the wellern fide of the Ad- riatiCj or \^enetian Gulf; paffing its meuth, on the third of September, iiiw the Morea or ancient Greece. It has a high rocky appear- ance, and its vallies are Icautiful and fertile ; this w^as part of the ancient Greece, diftin- guifhed by the name of Pcloponnei'us, and contained the fmall kingdoms of Sicyon, Meffi- nia, Argos, Corinth, Achaia, Arcadia, and Laconia. It remained for a confiderable time under the Venetians, till conquered by the Turks, in the year 1 7 1 5, who by their conquefts have confiderably diminiflied the extent of the republic's dominions. Sailing :^ »F A SEA OiriCER. 103 hough 1 fnow, natives otint of n, and eanuig , came lity of in the ired:ecl 3ibral- he Ad- inouth, orea or ippear- fertile ; diftin- is, and MefTi- , and le time by the nquefts t of the Sailing Sailing to the fouthward of the fmall iflaiid of Ccrigo, we entered the Archipelago, or ytgean lea, that being much infedted with pi- rates, we got ready whatever arms there were on board, confiiling of a few fwivels, fomc mufcjucts and cutlalfes, fufhcient for our fmall crew of twelve men. The Archipelago is that part of the Mediterranean which lying to the north-eaft, communicates with the Black Sea, by the palfagc or Streights of the Darda- nelles, that divides Turkey in Europe from Afiatic Turkey, and on whofe northern banks ftands the city of Conftantinople. This fea is bounded on the north and weft by part of Turkey in Europe, and the Morea ; on the caft by Turkey in Afia, and on the fouth by the line formed by the ifland of Candia, ex- tending towards the coaft of Syria. The in- termediate fpace contains numerous iflands, fubje<3: to the grand fignior; they produce abundance of fruit, filk and vines, and each ifland has a wine peculiar to itfelf. The great- eft part of the inhabitants are G recks, dcfcended from anceftors, whofe adlions were the admi- ration of the earlier ages, and thereby excite pity ^■n^ ■ I I ' i' 1 1 loj^ VOYACJKS AMD 1'It\VKf,S pitv for {]\r t\\\\i\\cd condition of their pollcrl- ty. Throiij^b ihdc illands Iii>r out- rourle to iSnivroii, aiul the vaii'd profpccls arilioj; lVon» fruitlul rallies, eontralKd v ' h the lofty and fahlc a]>pe;n.\i\ee oi the n\oUntaii^s, nniih enli- vened owv palliii^e. It i'^ a );en^Mal enflvnn for lhi|vs to take .*i Creek pilot at the illuul o\' ^lilo, that lifnig to a eonlideral>le l\eii;ht i« ve» v eonlpienonn anionj; the iilanda t]\at fnnound it ; hut the Captain relying on his ehavt?, we determined to he onr own pilots; w]\en leavii\g Milo on the i';;hr hand, palfed a elnilcr (U'illands, and eanv in iis^ht o\' Cape Poto, litnatcd on the evniii unt. \W^ thence direin the northward, and had f.. ive'v fnrlod oni top-tails, when it enercafcd io ;\ raj^\ln;.^ tlorm, wi.h a hipji lea ; iiight foon ean\c tn\, and the Ihort dillanec from (horc to ihore, ohli;\e.l iis frcqnently to cliangc onr taeks. f ■<"te I .V\ . *»t_ or A M.A OMICKR. lUj iack<^. After a r.Mi^^uiiip and awful u')yMU wc found nut fclvcs in llic niorniiig, to tijc fouth- vvard of the illaud of Seio, and the gale not haviup; abated, the Cla|)tain propofed bearing away, and lye too wntler Ihelter of foinc of the illands to leeward ; perecivin^ there was plenty of iea room to drilt, I advifed him tf) keep dole to the wind, when |)rohably the weather would ^row mctderare. Thip pkn he followed, and fortunately the l\orm abating, towards evening let our top-fails and eontinued to work to wii\dward, to gain the entrance of th« Cfulfof Smyrna. Theie gales in the mediter-* ranean arc fudden in their rife, very violent, but in general of Hiort continuance, attended with a Ihort fea, far more dangerous than the fwcllings of the greater oceans. This northerly gale, (called in thefe parts a Tramontane,) as we were afterwards itiformcd, did confidcra- bic damage ; a Tnrkifh line of battle ihip, feveral merchant fliips, and many lives being loft. On the 15th, came in fight of Cape Cara- iporno, that lies on the right of the entrance of I f). i: Vf \ of) V()Y/\(a:s A Nil ruAvir.s ol thr (.i\iir. ( !;u;\l)()rM(> lu»,nirhs in tlu- Tin- Uill\ l;nij\u;ur, we hoiiled oin e»>hMnR, ami heinp fainted hv the I'n'^liih velfels, anehored at a iniall dillanvo front the eity, among the r»\nt\eroiis (hips that were I\crc allcmblod from fnoU parts. i t» :t tf ^' « n A p. h ^j^*^ ^ 4 i I OF A SrA OIFICF.K. fO 7 C it A \\ Df/triphou of SmyrfUf. Embatkx in a tremlj JJjip Jhr EgypU B A p. >EI'X)RE I left London, I was favoured by a worthy friend, Mr. Paul Sniitli, witli letters of introiludlion to Melfrs. Richard and Edward Tee, from their father, and in confc- cjucnce received evefy politenefs and hofpita- lity pojihle ; and as I remained a fortnight at their houfe, had in the interim fuflicicnt Ici- furc to make cxturli^as through the city an4 the adjacent country. Smyrna is the fecond city of importance in Turkey in Afw, and beiiig favourably fitu- atcd for ,h Moil of tlic I'uropcan (latcs have ihclr confuls, parliciilarly the IVcncIi, iMigllfli, Diitcli, Ncnctians, and Rufhans ; who rcluling for the protediou of trade, live in an elegant and fpleiuHd manner; behdcs many refpedlablc families uniting Ibeiably, and forgetting Eu- ropean jealoufiesjform a moll agreeable fociety. The buildings and drcfs of the Turk.., fo different from tliofe of Europe, affcds the rtranger by their novelty ; for the flrects are exeeeding narrow, not permitting a loaded horfe to pafs without joilling the paffengcr on either fide. Their mofqucs are numerous, and their lleeples, called Monarets, are beautifully built, fimilar in form to the monument in London; with a gallery projeding near the top, where at the hours of prayer their prieflf or imans, in ?i loud voice, call the Turks to worfliip ; u rn s or lui- i;), tliut linp; of Ic.itlicr, ,'c I heir iMipjlidi, rcliding elegant pcdlablc iiig Eu- Ibciety. ink.., To cds the ccts are loaded :ngcr on ons, and autifully iient in near the ir pricfti urks to vorfliip ; 01- A SEA Ol'lIC'ER. ICC) rill \vorihin ip or hills arc n ot made iilc of cither in th WW m()l([ucs or houl cs. rhcl c ni()l(|iic arc of gootl architcdurc, the infidc divided by rowR of pillars, with nmrhic floors undi- vided hy pcw.s, and from pillar to pillar lamps arclinng fiom ihc walls; a kind of pulpit pro- jeds for ihcir pricfls to preach from, hy explain- ing the Alcoran. On entering the mofijue, every Turk leaves Iiis flippers at the poreli, and their worlliip is to one undivided God, and confidering M.ihomct as his propher. Tliey eonfider the ehrillians as a well informed and ingenious people ; hut are fuipri/cd at the idea, as they expiefs it, of dividing our God into three parts. Their morality is good, and in general arc rcmarkahle for honefty in their dealings, for if you fufped: their honour in thatrcfpedl, they reply, in a haughty manner, do you take me for a chr'ijltan ? In Europe the fronts of the houfes tovrard the ftreets are fet off with taftc and ornament ; hut here, a dull gloomy looking wall, with i'mall windows, forms part of a dwelling, whofe rooms are decorated with the pomp of Eiiftern -^ V 'f^' V? ^ Mk . o., * A up VOYAGES AND TRAVELS Jiaftcni magniiiccnce. Here arc fevcral khan?, or caravanferas, tiu^t being built in a quadrangu- lar form, enclole a fquare, where the ca nels or horfes of the caravan lo.id or unload, and the fides are divided into rooms, for the recep- tion of travellers pr merchandize. The prin- cipal goods belonging to the Turks are dcpo- fited in a long range of buildings, called the Bazar, pr Bezeftin. The fides are divided into fliops, and being arched at top, rcfemblcs a covered ftreet. This method of building is to prevent fire, and having large gates at their entrances, are Ihut and locked every night. / H I Smyrna is frequently vlllted by the plague, and the lail year had fwcpt off twenty thoufand of th; inhabitants, nor could aftraiiger on his arrival the prefer^ yea , have believed it, con- lidering the thrqngcd pppulation of the city. The prin H i| ■« |»r(|i»ll h r» ihu : tM\i I' rlr'ipi.l, ||, i". |Mmm| Kpiinll il i\HiihH c. hinil n (n ( Ii, Im tit pnv Put | < hi tW) j\(Mm1 |M (Mnul ! n lulc jN'k' l»rlirl, finm llw 'n,»n\ inli. mrr'! In llu- ( itnll :M \ toM iMf liv III prvl.lMr :UMlli»nlv. 'lilt- tt'iiilinn <«l llir- |>l:i|\ni il \:nioulI\ iiiii'UMitil lt»i ; Imufiitiii ImMi' it ti' ;» |M( nlin i|U:ilil \ •»! tlir loll »ll:lf (l;l« l»i I'll lnl»|ril, InMu Hut nli»-ll ;«>irM,Hii II"; I'l tlirii trlij'inti, wliii li jvtilicn linlv |( (piilrJ linpiiMil iiMiMi'sti'!. The lin l>j i»l lit- I'm k'! i : VI"! V li»ii<-"'* .* rlir tinlvni Iiiim w niih Ii j'Mntlri jippnii;!!!*** \\\;\\\ :\ I»:lf, Jind lluil ilnllun Mir yniul niul rii||l\ ; llu'il )\:«il i lli»\V, Hul (llry !Mf' :«l\v;»y« .H\\V(»! Witfl (Mllnl'{ ;»ml ;» |;||l|c ;H (||( II }'.il(llc, {'\\\\ |MM ol tluMitv iiihiliiirt! \^\ ilir |''(fm pcins (\vli'» ;Hc l»rt» ( illi il l'i;i)ikM) lic'^ ti» flir n>vfl\i,»H» litmlninj^'^ lui tli<* Ii,iilt(tiii . mik! i.illdl V / •1.'^ r A SI- A nlllllK. » ' ♦ HutM llw \\\r l»V III M "I »l»r til lti;l( li;tH . iIk IiIiIi IiMnI • Ml» ^ tcuHvc t«« ii jt.tilitH rii f',h»ll(\ tltr I'mim lir'i |(» flir »(Mii, ;tnit iir •nnvMtIf nf um) rl« |»Mif, tvifli wlitjfn at t\u Affrt Hif Ixdifi'l'! "I ||,f. *j,)V, Hi^ ''(filulf? :IImI jii ifi' i|.|I (lire I( ifil': :i(|. inM' Im ( j ' n'l ' l(C rvrllldj. :)i ;, li.iiMi.ii' , / til' ') f(tr r.'il/fi.'i, •\iU"t^^ Ml ;i[i It 1 111^ M'l » i' III / fill' 'I ii|i, drey fu\iiy f li'* irliiH.ilinii n| ( /tKJ't frr nr w^, wifh ffi, f ';fff^, niid (illiri ifh( Iliiii'iif'J. riif" (niififty MMHwl fJfnyrnt "»<•, -/'r/ Ic niifi ■ (ill, lllf" '/;(Hif't piMfih'd '"ifli 'riff.'»fi f ((}', '>r(7^, ,?ri/| (lOMiPff Mfcitf tN'-'J I If vil|nj."q xf ;i ^rrflirc *► Ji\(' diirnijMiiOirtl fiy lli'' < ypf (<; f r' < ; tli it yrfrw in llirif jMil-; t'l -Ml itrifri'tiff fi/',, ;ifi'| infrr Ipf-l Icrl iiif ffif V 1 1 1 ;i ),'/•"! '>f tlif 'l\\fh'\, f,r l'\i I'ljXMiii trif If lifuiti;, ;i(lof ri' d v/irli l»/;iufif)(l :f^ t'^trhlivf |r;if (If m. 'f I)" l(ro'//rt f.-l.^' ,tj;;p^;ir ;ifi« r n\ io(ky lull'; (' rvr fo fr;nrr,tf^ .irr^l liciglitrii iIk ^ii()i\<(f\ J rind nrri'»ri^ thern ,\re *Kir»iirf)(*r;i|»l* k j I I II.) VnVAUl'S ANLi IIIAVI':J.(!J iMnuo\i 1u\trn nl iinli(pt)ty« \\\a\ would ^\\v |Mirliiit Miul (rtll»rrtCliou iti tlic ItlentHir nnvrlli'i. I :U'rt)tnpnn'ml llir Mi. LrfM, mi jin n^,rrr «Mr f\tinlt«)n^ In lluii loiinhv irliilnur, loin Miilr^fiom Smviuji, iiiul rnuiul ilu^li Imlpl \:\\\\\ v\\i\\i\(*t\ In IumIi h»\Ml iinit itMllHiy. futli'i*il \\\r \\\M\s I ivililiffi I ir(i*lvr«l rmiii ilillnriu lumilii'i, (puHinilMily littiii Mi. Vmi I ( Mn\i (iiikH, linvifij', mh nvriliiiii In idut^Ms, ni jiiiy »f |irrlrfifa»r»ofi of llir living', wlirllif I iiidti, lir;ill, or fowl, linv Ik'mI m(| |Ih> iinir, ;iimI filliri wil<* iii)(lffd it'i .'tliprjiiiMiM'. ( l|)OM llir noillipifi lidf of tfip liill, Jnokiiij', lovvMtdi flir l»;iy, fofrriffly flood niir of flip liiirll nff»pliilliraffp« in Alia, li^ifi^', (»l vvhitp maililr, wlii< li ifif 'f'lirkn drfrioliflird in llir lall (riihiiy lo Imild a lif/rflifi, ;irid < iaiavanfjia, thai air mtainly amon^ tlir ( liic I omamctili of Smyrna. I liis aiM|iliifli(alir wan riflifi Imilr diirinj'^ the i(i|Oi of ihr ('.niprror ( ilaiidiiii, wUdic iiaiiir wan dif((»vf'rrd on a prdrflal of tfi^' Iniildiiij'; ; or in rlir firnf of ( iallif rni«!, »'-i a ()('t of MWMlal'; all of flial f'.fnpfror^ family, or I' '.\ i I \ \ hi,* ;f oi p<)\i \ itnU"'" tfii'Minr '' ilif Inn- piii-i', \\^\r l«ri'n liMind in •'')',|\i'U', 'ip llw lonu'l i tioni. Onr |vnlltMl:>i H«mI Mll»;nlf'(l In ItK , !ip|ir;(l A \,\\)ir itMHul )nn»p n| I;*', U ♦'l|»lt)tl|» f";«( ll TnMn twcU r h» ihiilrrn jumntl'! I Inii Mitti Inn \m \r\\ fn't'tl, :nul i't fllrf'iMrcl rn|tfflniif {,\ \\\r ImtI \\\ llnir jvnlM, I lli'i litrt'd nl On r p i". nn« |" i nlin In Ali:t, M'l llnil nj /MiitM ■\\ \\\r y .\yr nl llnpr, rvnllv I'ImoM'") i(. 'i1uMipJ» l'r:ntii(Mll\ rihtiHnl, 'iinytllM lit« lur n H«''MM, wlirn |»,ir:M Itlltnlift «< nl ]>\nldinj\'; \'v\v tinnun •Ini'vn, inid Imjm ni Inr tl\tMtliuul |>t'ilonn ik'll!«»yc(imif J, ;,i)'l f»-|lnfr'<| \\\i\\ rnffifti^f-z-e f Ji Itw Inf Kirr /^ lifififirl It )'t i\\\ flu/'- fff'lifi f ll'tly nf rMlinfin ficit fli' flf')f(('^(l ^vnrripl*"n nf^ |tf riffitrfl, /.I flir f|(r/|fi ftff^fj/lifi^r ^llfl'-rcff /• (ti f rlj|»jfi(i" Mjiifilnfi'' . fof ^Idfifip nfr /'.iff// 'jK ticf, fit' I Kflr'l l.r-if(|r |lf-/|f/||f(.'»f (;tf(0(^ //l^'lH^ ly :iwfilf ^ll^il ^ff rifforrH If'iffi fit/- I,/ ff \{\S'itttyAU()ts iKfl lifjxi' fin |.m^|f^c| pfr/|^f^)n,'^^/;|f/, tit^tf.. ♦ i/th till*! ' if nHin-iMr r» (fr jtifUr** tn fh<^ rfi;'ri// ifi'l pifirnf rflrn ; nf >),/► pr^'l^'f^fmr) ( f/ h' i/^f, .,Miv'' r.f Syri;i, fr/ Inrr,/- r,ira'/;,f7 ffi-it rr/i^^,f Mff^ff,|,^^ Inr f|,ofr p;,rft..^ j,-,rf ^.„f;,r]/ f'^r A !^p, |.n; l.l.f tl.JH /rJHr,,/, .,ff,.r<, ,f,^f t h't^ti^h (},tp, 'Mll^fl fli- l/Aifrr,-ifilr Alfr,^^, b^j',;,^ b^r.ir,^ ll ih^m )»'MI lOjMMl, I «ulpl»l IniMirl -M 1 1 vr- :ll Ml y iVMlniOliMi. 0< (M Im uiIiIm^ImI '.\ trU;|v;M( I )'\ll\r'. n»i! I «Un|\ Inivr t»l hm tvnif It v ItlrMt*!*;, ol Oili«l Oppi 1 t p^^n^nl \r«lt:U1«it uIlM llM*! |tM«llv l\t>lpj\lnl H\(' llnp \\\[U li|;'i til (iHjmIc til ill Mn in|\ iliMiMi »l V.\\\v I !:ti'il«MinM, mik i-jtmlr In h'liu- liMiiluvml, nlun llir whul liriv'H In \s\\^\\ \\v\\\ :\\\:\\\\\\ \\'\ {•\\\\:\\i\ \ r |ll:»lli Itnlt' ■UN n , .\\\A '\\\ \\\r {'\ r\\\\\y MmlnMidln t l»iv. lihUlnl «M\ \\\r rontliuni, :inil npjMtlifr (lir Ul;\nt\ :\\ul \\'\\\\ i»l Mvlrlrnr. WrluMi- Inimd .1 I niUll\ Inly, el I < |\nim Iviup, Ml mik lift »: ^ MI'A nll(r|'M. » »'l vr> (I Ml V \:\\"M\. I trg^liinlni*; r \r;«fl I r (•I jtrlttlv iilr mI III mil fMMHJr I ItrpMM ♦" M'ltli l»nir In I I'ly. inlitr tlir r\v Imikk) \ MIU llCI • ':tl, WMll hiiM« Miwl r\r llifwn tl'ori liilr I. I.. I.) Hir (.1(1 CmMlli i nhiiti'iiuihf.Di^ihit-^ il"l'; Ic|»|»/m1 n)i :» rtfprt, nroi*''! ^vifll '« III"'* itid pWlnltj, U'ltf» liy Hir vrfirf ;tli|r lf^fi|'ffi ^il l«M IwimI, jilrtlv Hill' ll K'frfflllKJ t It' (',"'«'« •«Mnr«| (,»/ i) f''h ,1 III 'ih|r (;il((l''l li(ff), rVf IdMlC'l M 'il'lr, Mild {(Ifdijr 'I'l^'fl, W ff- pfl^- l»nl( (I i-illi hirlrilli |'i(ifM, fi'i» 1(1^/' flir' p(<0/ lullfl'' fnltM*''! |)i(if'i 'tf I'((f7»ji^, liirf f'lKf fiiffiffifr"'! wifli ;t li ifwl. Intnr iikhiiIi |ilf'Cr. i 'illrf wpf^ lirMffdif iff ;iimI ;i' ' Hidiiijr fn flir | Krkilli M(ll ,uid riir rn.nn; '')ri /•I y . ( if* tS'i 1 2 o VOYAGES AND TRAVELS on our right-hand lay the town of Scio, fitiiated near the fca, and on the left perceived the bay and town of ('^hyfmi. In the har- bour of Chyfmi the Turkifh fleet were attacked and fct on fire by the Ruffians, in the year 1 771. The prefent Turkifli Captain Bafha, who by his experience and attention has brought the Turkifh navy to fome fmall degree of difcipline, was at that time a private cap- tain in their fleet, and on the appearance ot the Ruffians, at a council of war, advifed flipplnj^ Lueir crbles, and to light the Ruffians in the open clianiiel. His opinion being over- ruletl, they remained at anchor, and by fire- fhips, and a fmart cannonade, were totally de- flroved. The prelbnt Captain Baflia fwam on lliore, and thou Tailors who efcaped, on ar- riv.ni:, at Smyrna, ex^fperated their country- mejij on account of the fuppofcd affiftance we hiid giciJitedto the Rufllan fieet, and threatened our mtrch:; us with a tear of beii]g mafTacred. Sailing pafl: ibis bay, left the Iflands of Ni- caria nnd Icurni on oar right-hand, and came in iwht of the \vei:erncape of the once cele- brated i / ' I • V or A SEA OlFICER. 121 Scio, ceived le har- Ltackcd e year Baflia, n has degree e cap- ince ot advifed ufTians g over- y fire- illy de- vam on on ar- Duntry- nce we eatened (Tacred. of Ni- id came ice cele- brated braled iiland of Samos. This Cape lay on our left-hand, and is very flccp and high. The Tailors relate, that from Tea. a light conflantly appears here during the night, but is invilible to thofeon (hore. On this fuhjec5t the ingenious French traveller, MonfieurTheve- not, fays, ** he faw this light, and confidered ** it attentively for the fpace of an hour i it ** appearing to be about two hundred pacps ** from the Tea fide, rifing and falling like a " candle, and in fhort he believes it miracu- lous." On the other fide, Monfieur Tournefort, not quite fo fuperftitious as his countryman, fays, ** he is prefuaded of the contrary; and ** fuppofing fuch a fire was ever perceived, ** doubts not but it was kindled by the monks " or fhepherds, partly to divirt themfelves, ** and partly to keep up the belief of the ** great miracle ^ as it is called by the priefts of ** the ifland." This has the appearance of a philofophical and juft conclufion, as the moft aftoiiifhing miracles, or preternatural appearances have, in si ), % 122 VOVACiF.S AND lU AVI l.'i ill all n^rcs, iv/.K fnif/ii//\f,/, \hvulU;\\\s I'lovod to bctlu" f)(r8|)iiii;.r ol inv( nlioii, nr ilrli.Mi; jiiul to roirohouitc tlif [iln)vc l»i|»po(itinii ol Mon- iiour roiirnolort, I ^tiii icllily, thai though iul(>riiv\l hy rupJiin I .c Rlanr ol (hia light, I lailoJ pad (hr Capc^ tliiiiinr a line nighl, and never omi'linv it. Perhaps, the fathers h.i\*ing the gill nl oninifticni o, (uppolcd any rlforts ol their legerdemain wonlil ho milap- plicvl, in attempting to tonvintc h nautical heretic. ft 1 ! '.fi We touched at this illand, in order to land fbnic ot the pallengers, and thereby Irul an opportunity oi taknig our guns antl (ecing the intcriour part, wiicrc we found ahundance orgatne, fuch as (iii pes, woodcocks, thrulhcs, noodpigeons, and partridges, that ' in thefc parts, con\idcrably larger than tnc ii,ng- hlh partridge, being more ilrongly marked, and with red legs. The uihabitants arc Greeks, and fubje^l in fommon with the other illandsto the Turkilli government. . » OF A SI:: A UM'ICLR. \ I'lovnl IjMi; iind Ol MoM- thou^l) lis li^lit, ic nigl)t, 10 ("at hers oIihI any c rnifap- ri nautical ;r to land y h'ul an \d lecing bumlancc thrulhcs, t ' in tnc I'.ng- markal, '«3 ful)jc61 in : Turkil}! /ernment. ^ovcminent. On one of thefe cxcnrfifins, Captain I>c Blanc being an excellent fh(»t» we vvrre returning towards the /hip hjacJcd with partridge, when in a craggy defile faw (omc Cjlrecks approach, they were arrned, and nyt liking their appearance, we quickened on I pace, and gained the top of a hill, where we plainly law our fhip, h1|'» \\ie Greeks ad- vancing up the mountain. On a nearer ap- proach, we fired a fliot ovi-r their heads ; they flopped, and preparing to attack us^ made a fignal with a handkerchi' f* lor the boat to land, the boat putting off, vvt again fired towards them, when feing they had u.'it with no cafy prey, made off, and left uc to tcturn on board. Weighing aochor the following day, faw the ifland of Rhodes flretching from cafl to weft to a confiderablc extent. Steering to the fouth-eaft, paft clofe to the mouth of the liarbour once celebrated for its colofTus. Q^ This t\ n •7 * [p 124 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS This is a rcndezTOU*^ for part of the Turkifli fleet, and we perceived feveral men of war at anchor. The harbour is well fhel'ccred and clofc to the city of Rhodes, that is large and well-built. On the right was a high mountain, flat on its fummit, where the knights of faint John of Jerufalem bravely defended themfelves againfl: a very nume- rous army of Turks, 'till betrayed by one of their number, who fixed a note to an arrow, and letting it fly towards the Turkifh camp, informed them where lo rrake an attack ; which being done, obliged the knights to furrender. This was fome time after thc)^ had been driven from the Holy Land, and had taken pofleflion of the iilaryl of Rhodes, from whence they retired to, and fortified the fmall iiland of Malta ; and fo great a refped have the Turks at this day for their valour, that they will not permit the houfes of the knights in the city to be violated or defl:royed. Continuing our courfe to the fouthward, on the 25th of Od:ober faw a tower on the low t I OF A SEA OFFICER. J^25 'urkiai )f war el'cered lS large a high re the bravely nume- one of anow,. 1 camp, attack ; gbts to er they nd, and P-houcs, ified the 1 refped valour, s of the iiftroyed. ^ard, oil on the low jow fandy coaft of Egypt ; this was called 7'our des Arabes^ or Arabs tower; and the port of Alexandria lying to the caftward, we /dircded our coi'rfc towards it, and in the evening anchored near the city of Alexan- dria. CHAP. r\' mumrn VOYACrS AND TRAVI-rs i I- c 11 A r. XI. .1 w Dcftnf>ti(^n pf j1le!<(ithitiii And Pompey's Ptliiit , KtnbiiHw for ihr (/lotid ofCypnix. I II F, coall i)f F.gypl lica low, ninl the tnarks to know Alcxamlrij^ arc two finall Iiills lonncd of the luins ami mbbilli ol tho ;uKicnt city, toj^cthcr with lVMnpcy*B rilliU. 0\\ \\\y arrival I waited on iSij>;n»or Rofctti, ■M\ eminent Italian ineixhant, to whom I hail letter;*, ami during my Hay at Alexandria re., i eived every holpitality at his liourc. To have a proper idea of this eity, let the leadct imagii\e a Candy Illhmns, extending irom the ^nai^^ land towardt; the uorth, and its extrc- mitv dividing into two hranches, cncloling twp OK A SRA OFFICER. It; Piliof . J. and the Wi (mail 1 of the B rilliii. Riifctti, in I Imil uliia re., fc. To ic icailcr IVoin I he is cxtrc- cucloliiig twp two liarbours ; tlic caflern one is fur the re- n'plioii ol cliriiliiin velfels. It8 entraiue ii ^iiiinlcd by a large TurkUh cafllc, « alletl tlin Farillun, built on the Tcite where f(jrinerly rtood the Pharos, or light-houfe, one (»1 the fcvcn wonders of t!ie worhl. 'Hiis harbour is ahnofl choaked up wi'li fand, except to the northward, where the narrow fpace for anchorage oldiges the fliips U^ be ch)rc moored abreaft* This haHnnir is cxpoicd to the north-cafl, and fonie years ago, upwards of forty fliips were at once drove on fhore. This was occahoned by tlic fouhief'* of the ground, chafing the cables, fo that when tlic outcrmofl (hip parted h( r cables, fhc drove on the next, and fo c^n, 'till all were loll. Some authors have rcmnrlcrd, that this haj>. pencd during a gale from tin nf>rth-v eft ; but it could not have been, as the hafbour is well l)i(ltcrcd V.| J 28 VOYAGlvS AND TRAVELS fliclteicd from that quarter. This is alio called the New Port. Tliat to the weftward, called the ()!(! Port, is much hctter, havhig more fpace and deeper water ; and the veffels bc- longlup; to the Turks are the only fhips per- mitted to anchor here. vi r On the limdy ifthmus (lands the prefent city of Alexandria ; it is meanly built, yet has fome good mofques, and feveral excellent houfes bordering on the chriltian harbour, where the confuls and merchants refide. At a fhort diftance to the fouth-caft, and bor- dering on the New-harbour, are the immenfe ruins of the antient city. Its extent can be traced by the walks that in fome places arc entire, and flanked by large caftles about 2Q0 paces from each other, with fmaller ones be- tween. The intermediate fpace prefents an awful pidure of the inftability of eartldy grandeur, which formerly this city eminently polTeflcd J y -^j \ ili'o called (1, called ng more fFels bc- [hip8 pcr- OF A SEA OFFICER I ^.fi 2 prcfent iiilt, yet cxcelleot harbour, (idc. At and bor- immcnfe t can be (laces arc bout 2QO ones be- fents an F cartljy minently olTelTcd ; poniflc'! ; being built by Alexander the Great, oh account of the convenience of its harbours, the only good ones along the coail of Egypt ; and thereby becoming the ftapic for merchan- dize, arrived to a ^rcat degree of confc- quencc. Its walls are four Icnrucs in circumference, in loinc places the marl)lc pillars of the porti- cos of its palaces are yd Handing, while the beautiful i\Iofaie work of the minblr floorinns now form an ahnoll undiHrnguillKd kvrl wirb the fand. The prefent city is fiipjdrcd with water from the refervoirs of old Alexandria, that hv their excellent artliitc(Slure, Have withflood the dev;:tlation of timj ui'ar cooo yinr?, being now almofl entire ; ihcfe arc filled with vviiter from the river Nile when it cncrflows ; bein^ conduc^led bv an a^'ucdiidi rrc;!.';;!, li^edif- tance of ?6 miles- Tl c Vt*S \^il \ f^o VoVACiIiS ANii l'KAVIIl,S 'I'luHront olCiVliir'!* pfilrtco is lliiuliiijr, aid* p;nt ol Cleopatra's, timt lay near the ualh faiin \ the liarboiir. Ainiilll tlulc rmns llaiuls a latere 'I'urkilh inolijuc, as it' to ilciiJo ll\o iniiwitci rpaulaiionol religion; loi paganilin hnviMp rciiriievi here (liiintphnnt in lliccarliell airos, \vn Juaccilcil by the iniKlcr iloi1rin(*f< of cht)Oiani(y ; anvi on its ilctline is ciev^er! tlic lluivluiil of Alalioniel. 0\) tlie itorthern boniulnry of the city, atut ii(;)r ih; Inarh, are Cleopatra's n?edlc5, two lari\\' ihalts o( Thcbuic fionc, (ovcied with hicrtn\lvpl\iv ks ; they are ol" a l^piare iorin, tlopinjv towanls the top; one is yet erci^l, hoiiig a linj'jo flone, near (ixty feet Jiigh, an^l icvcn Wcl fipiaro at the halo ; ami at a linall «!i(lancc the (Uher lies reclining, antl halfbn- rievi in the land. At ncir a nii!( ilillance In^nv the t< uthciri j;;ate of the oIJ ci'v, «>n a i'lvwW fjiulv emi- nence :.^i .^r^ o V A SEA OFMCKU Ml ncncr llrni.ls I\>in(»ry'3 pilliii, niul rluifliiUia firing not poLijittrtl to H()[)c:it on horlrhiK k, I WHS olili Hil lo tnoiiiit iU» nls, .n ul filtTiulril by ii jnmHiiiy ns :i |^,niml riilinj^, in tliflimio OHhioniiMi' inannrr, \vr lluis rode KJWjnih tUv jiilljir. Tlir iijitiiiHl llowncfs oi tliric MiiiiniilR wuR us ((»M(jiicuoiis in l'j^\pt "^ '•* iMnopr, oMigin^^ nn Ainh, who accotnj)nnic(l lis on fool, to quicken tlicir pn( c W'itit n go.nl ; !unl on a nearer approach, was llriick with Tiirpri/c and admiration al the licaiity and nia^VJ''^'^'*-' ^' ^'ic pillar. Wc ahghled and made ("everal circuits round (his imrnenfe cohnrm, that juflly attra(5>R the notice ol travellers. It is cotnpofed of a party coloured granite ; its l)are is a Hjuarc, 15; feet on each fide, the (haft and upper a I t nl the ha(c is of one entire t)iccc, r [' 90 Icct in lenii;th, and ?o Icet in diameter; this is ( r<)wned by a hcautilul capital in the Corin- nan orvier, witn pa th iim I caves ll ic entire hight is 114 leet, and Hands on hiyers of iloac bound together with lead ; the rurlacc R uf tf 4 I \ I 1 1 u* VOYAGES AND TRAVELS of the fhaft is perfecSlfy fmoath, thereby fhevvin? to advantacre the colours of its mar- ble, that are blue, white, and red ; but the red predominates. The learned have been divided in opinion, whether it is a real marble, or only a compofition ; for as no traces are left of a quarry that could have produced fuch pieces, it has been fuppofed the carriage of them from a great diftance to have been im- pofliblei therefore, with great difficulty chip ped off with my knife a few pieces from the bafe, that is of the fame marble of the reft of the pillar, and fince prefented them to the Mufeum of Trinity College^ Dublin. From the appearance of thefe pieces, ^Ifo coiifider- ing that the efforts of the ancients wcrealmoft equal to ony undertakings I take the liberty to give it as m/ opinion, that it is a real marble, and not n compofitioa. For ages no attempt had been made to get to its top, 'till the eccentricity of feme Englifh failors belonging to a fhip then at Alexandria, pointed it out as a pleafant fuuation to drink a bowl of i^ OF A SEA OFFICER. ^33 of punch, and enjoy an extenfive profpet^t Many contrivances were thought of, but ia vain, till having procured a paper kite, flew it exadlly over the top of the pillar, and on its falling, left the twine acrofs ; by this a ftrong rope was hauled up, then another, till having formed a ladder, they afcended, and where, from below, it hardly appeared poffi- bb for two pcrfons to find room, they con* tiived to flow away eight, and enjoyed their bowl of putich, to the ailoniftiment of all Alexandria. This attempt led to a difcovery, that otherwife many ages might not have dif- clofed ; this was, finding on the top, the foot and ancle of an irtimenfe flatue, that formerly was there ercdt, fuppofed by fome, to have reprefcnted Pompey* and by others, the Emr peror Severus. A vcflll belonging to the fmall republic of Ragufa was fooiv to fail for the ifland o£ Cyprus 'i( OF A SEA OIFICER. ^37 tU'ccitful fct ; they are fubjedl to the Grand Signior, l)Ut frequently revolt ; prcferving that unfettlcd charader they have long been noted ft)r. The florin abating, I l)id adieu to Alexan- dria, and on the 8th of November failed and dircdled our courfe tow^ards the ifland of Cyprus, lying to the nurtliward about a hun- dred leagues diftant. ^ The vcflel I had embarked in was a Polacrc brig, called the La Conception, belonging to the republic of Ragufa, fituated in the Gulf, and oppofite to Venice ; the Captain's name was Matthco, a good failor and a pleafant fellow. We had fome palTengers on board for Cyprus, a Turkifh family and two Fran- cifcan friars ; being mefs-mates, they were obftinate during the voyage in contending that the only paflage to heaven was through St, Peter's gates ; and I as obftinate in defending our •» i r -1 V { ^1 \ u i! '■i 1 f ! > 'I I/A. }/': 13S VOYAGES AND TRAVELS our Englifli entrance, thro.igh St. Paul's, Moft miraculous tales were related to refute me, but confidering them only as fo many nine-pins, I rolled them down with the au- dacious bowl of a heretic. '• i However warm were our religious difputes, they did not prevent the friendly enjoyment of fome excellent wine we had on board, and tho' our thoughts and words were concerning the fdfeft depolition of our fouls, being only lodgers, the care of our bodies wiis committed to the attention and Ikill of captain Mattheo ; who, after a pleafant paffage of four days, brought us in fight of the ifland of Cyprus. ^s5 CHAR OF A SEA OFFICER. 139 CHAP. XII. Jrnves at Lentka, Hofpitably received by the Englijh Fro-confuL Embarks from thence w a Saiquc for the Coojl of Syria. y Y E anchored in the buy qf Lernica, fmi- ated on the fouth-eaft part of the ifland, and landing with my father confelFors, I met in the towa of Lernica, Signioj Nicholas Caprara, a Venetian gentleman, who then aiHied as Englifli conlul ; receiving an earned invitation to his country-houfe, we mounted his phaeton, while the Francilcans purl'ued the route to their monaftery. This \ A' ** . I .? ^•3 I I 1; \. r I Hi \. 140 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS This ifland, once famed for \ySi\vj; the re- fidence of Venus, and where her votaries at the temple ot Paphos (towards ths wcdcni end) paid homage to the rites of love, has, fmce thofe poetic and enraptured days, iliared in thofe vicifTitudes occafioned by the cru- ladcs and other wars ; and from the govern- ment of the Venetians, pafTed into the hands of the Turks in the year 1570; and is now governed by a Beglerbeg and feven Sangiacs. The ifland is not fo highly cultivated as it might, owing to the indolence of the in-r- habitants who are chiefly Greeks : yet it pro- duces great quantities of filk, cotton, fruits wine and oil. The Cyprus wine is much efteemed, being rich and ftraw- coloured, and generally of a great age before it is ufed, owing to the cuftom among the Greeks of burying great quantities of the prefent vin- tage. f 7' 1. ^ OF A SEA OFFICER. 141 ^r;<^e, whenever a fon is born ,- nor is it opened tiil he is of age. The Cyprus wine brought to Europe is of a pale colour, but I have fre- quently drank red wine at Cyprus of a great age and very good, particularly at Monfieur Aftier's, the French conful. Every kind of provifion is here exceeding cheap, belides many articles that, to a ftranger, are luxuries. A fmall bird called Bccca Figa, is efteemed excellent, as it feeds on iig-leaves, from ^vhcnce it takes its name in the Italian. The natives excel in the whitenefs of their bread, as one chief employment of the wo- men is to clear the corn from diit. In company with Signior Caprara, I made an excurfion towards the weilern part of Cyprus, and found the women in general pofFcITed of thofe charms and condefcending effaces that has formed their character, and perhnps occafioned Venus to ered her Paphian temple f I i i i -<: i r, •j^afc. ' V VOVACnS ,xNi. IRAVI'lS V ■u' 1 \ A.} il trinplc their. Ml"' l;4iur ('uMMUiiM*' ililpoli'HMi IHU luMilis, niM I (>\il(l thi'V l»avo !\ny obju.- linn lr> the jnnmliuinn (»l .\ Irrnml tcmpio* '? lu' (ocrks wr ;\lln\votl tlu' t\ru ilr <»( \hr'\\ ii'1i;',itM\, mil h;nr in;\ny jmkmI clmn I»cm ; ibrv ;ur .^olt'«l (•\volki\t, ImK tlu'V iuc mily diaho- liral, v» l^trlcntinr, ilnnonM .-ind ilcvils tiniill- itij; tinners into hell with Ipcairt ixUA pitih- folks ; aiu! witli aft litllr ecroMiony as a hakn vvonM (ill his oven. UiU the Inmian mind varies, aiul tliele teiiiMe lpeda«les may (el ve- to imnlel many j(>}.\-tiottInL; 'Inillians, ^vll(^ not (iiieeptiMe ot iry^aril tlifonrji love, are eonvcnctl bv Icai. A Ctivek tluiuli at l.crniea is (aid (o coTitain the Indies of l,a/arns, and is tliere- tovc called lVF.gli(c de Saint La/ate ; n eom- mow jMat^liee in thislnMunary world, to (larvr and I 1 ~n. 'I ov A SVA Oil l( KK. '4.1 and p( ilo iitr the wictt lied, while liviiip; ; rtfid at thrh iltath to apply the titU' ot laint f»» inartytS as a lalvo. .Similar to a hrother ofli- iet c)f miMf, who exilVm^Ji; thloiijdi the term nl hiH miillhipmai/M time, tlniii^'hl to jivr hi'i lViriul« tio larther ti(»illile, and died : the Ihllowiiip, piomotioti tvvf» ycarf; Auv- wa«tl«, he \v;»'A on the \'\i\ ol lientetia.^t*', ; and ir re^,iilered in heaven hy t he ie( ending'; an- rel, //''' t»llr(]lMl iw> hi^'Jui \.\\A i|i;in:i tlill»,inili'il ni"ulil\ipM\;Mi, l>\if ctiioynl vwvy vfm\\'<'\[ lliat hol|Ml;\lity rnnKI \u^\\\\ n\\\. '11, o I'lTHtli l;m t\\.\\.\r is \hv iM;illn k-'y (o tonvt-i lalioii a fniM)j>, du' I'.innpran'? ii» Alia ; ami \]\v nr\( h\ (tiiv'u*' is ilir lialian, tl»r lavoinitc lan- ;.\Uiii;r i>l thr lulits, aiul whcirliy a lliaiij^'i tna\unilci llaml >ho f.i;/<)U,f / ;,;;/(,;ll\al is IVc- qiuauly Ipolvcn l»v the liiik!^ ami Ciicik^ v\\ t!u^ foa roalU. I'v.iv tt'.p(\l is paid t'» an I'.ii ;lilli tra-" nH'i, ImU K( liis nalnn r»MirCl Hia*: ^'ill ai\i y\\\\c l\i is ( lul>io ti\o inorr a{(.;M<;, tn aV(>itl llic laM» *'\ » rnitilin aiul iiMnail^. Manv t^l llu' CApMa in; pay !u,irat attrntinii to iiwjMovo tl\c l»nj\iiir; d ( auary-hinls, by !nm'»i /rs HP A SI A OM'ICI K, ulrd lliiit I.MI- t ;i irxf ;ni - 4? I; U\\\v'\ ni\ Mil iu|vm im;i(|c T- ; the |iin|ui(f I Iwivr lliim lir;M(l llicm (ih|', 'mi ;ui ;i(lfirK;il.|(» nijunKt, {Mid wlicn t;jn^'Jit, ;mc vtiy (h;i!. A lew yr^rq M^f, ;i TiMkilli l;iiloi |mm(Ii;i1((| tie of tliidc ( jMi;nir« ;it f KlIM .1 (Jt i\ (.f)iili(l( r;il»lc price k ; (ome fime jiller, .i *l iiiUMi line (»r h.iltle lliip ;iii( liored in (lie l);iy (»^ KrmieM, when llie Ijiilor landing;, met the ( ireek ;ind told him, he h.id prelent(d the l»ii(l t(» one of (he ( Jr;md Si^oiior's fjivoiirite*!, in the lerii^TKi ; joid by her inlereil. olitaincd ♦he roinm.'ind of the in.in "f vviir jnfl arrived. If our I'njrlilh Adfnirjdty were an hdccptihlc (o the leelin^r,s of pKunotion, I flicndd with pleafure hnve hron^dit them hiilF a dozen. Mr. Vernon, lirollur to the Admiral, and (iOnful forTripoly r>n (he (o;i(l of Syri;i, re- Tiding at AUppo, the p(»rt oF fiatidiea, v/aR the moll convenient place to cnd>ark for, and ;dtrr I ! 146 VOYAGES and TRAVELS after fome delay hired one of the large halt decked boats, with lattcen fails that are com- monly navigated in thefe parts, and called a Saique ; fhc was about twenty tons; my crew confiding of four Aflyreans. The fortnight I had fo agrcably paft at Cy- prus, made me regret the neceffity of bidding adieu to Signior Caprara, and many other friends; when the wind blowing from the north-weft, wc weighed anchor the 28th, and directed our courfe towards the niountains of Syria, that lay diftant to the eaftward, a- bout thirty leagues. The cabbin of this Afly- rian packet was under the fore-caftle, and placing my bed on one fide, and trunks on the other, found the intermediate fpace fufficiently large, to permit fmoaking a pipe, or looking at the Italian grammar, which was now my moft ufeful vade niecum; and having thus regulated OF A SEA OFFICER. M7 regulated the furniture of this marine fandum fandorum, I occafionally vifited the deck, and o jferved the manoeuvres of my Aflyrians, and found the reis, or mafter, a fteady elderly man, who fuperintending the ftecrage, di- redled his turbaned countenance to the moun- tains, that began to appear above the horizon. Finding he (poke the Hngua Fran fa, I applied the more affiduoufly to my grammar, and by underftanding French, could hobble out fome converfation. He appeared affedled with fome painful diforder, and had every now and then a parcel of hot cinders rowled up in a cloth, and on which he fat down as a remedy. They believe all Europeans to be phyficians, but being dreflcd as an officer, he could not dire<5lly form that idea ; but as it might not be impoflible that I had fome fmattering of the fcience, he ventured to alk my opinion. 1 told him that the hot embers might dulcify T the k I )? ** ' /P; J m ? 148 VOYAGES and TRAVELS the acutencfs of the pain j and in fhort, as no other medicine could then be procured, he muft confidcr it the neplus ultra of relict. A good fire being conftantly kept on the ballaft, he continued to receive the dulcifying fup- plies ; and on firft fitting on them, refembled, as the old faying is, a bai upon a hot griddle. CHAP tin ;, OF A SEA OFFICER. H^ CHAP. XIII. lakes fhelter at the Ifland of Tortofa. ^^- rivis at Latlchea, and proceeds by a caravan towards Aleppo* The following day, tht fun rifing beauti- fully to the eaftward, difcorered the coaft of Syria, and mount Lebanon, to the fouth-caft. The port of Laticbea was about fix leagues a- head, and a fine breeze feemed to promife a delightful pafifage ; but Boreas, as if enraged at our quackery, from a pleafant north-weft wind, changed on a fudden to a northern gale, and blew a florm. Latichea lay three points under the lee, and ladvifed my patient to carry a taught fail, and ,(' 1? /. »i0 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS and endeavour to reach his port. He conti- nued to bear away, paying a compliment to the nautical abilities of my countrymen, by laying, " Slgnior^ non /tamo Inglefc^'* *♦ 5/r, wi are not Engii/Jj ;'* thereby meaning, accord- ing to our cuftom, that he could not keep the ^ea. Bearing away We run to the fouthward, along the coaft o^ Syria, and in the evening Iheltcred, by anchoring at the fmall ifltnd of Tortofa. This iiland is fcarcely more than two miles in circumference, yet was of con- fiderjble importance during the holy wars, as the ruins of its fortifications plainly difcovei their former flrength. It lies about fix lengues to the northward of Tripoly, and a league diftant from the coaft of Syria, and oppofite to the large town of Tortofa. The hafboiii is on the caft fide, and fecured by a mole, which according to the Turkifh cullom, ib fuffered to fall into decay ; and its ruins con- tribute 6f a sea OVUCER. i^-t tribute to choak up the anchorage, that it al- rcail)' too fmall to receive a large vefTcl. 1 landed, and found the fmall town inha- 4)itcd by a mixture of Turks and Afljrians^ from whom we procured a fupply of wine and bread. Near the town is a large caAle, calculated to frighten at a diflance, but on a nearer approach, its ruined fituation almoft excites pity. The few guns it prefents througk ihattered embrafures, are badly mounted, and if fired, endanger their burfling, or the tumb* ling of the walls ; yet the fame caution is ufed to prevent the eye of curiofity cxamininc^ this bulwark, as in the firft arfenal of Eu- rope, but from different motives. The Wcftern fide bf the ifland towards th^ Mediterranean was lined with an immenfe wall, whofe foundation is compofcd of the largeft (lones 1 had feen, being moftly ten fee^ j( i. A i .1 ^^ w > J52 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS feet in length, and near five in breadth j within thefe are the refervoirs under ground, wbrre the water and provifions were lodged^ They refemble wells widening to a confiderabK* breadth at the bottom, and plaiftered with a compofition, that was proof againll f jids. The top is fmalLand covered w?th a flat (lone on a level with the earth. 1 ■ ' .'^ Parting near the refidence of the comnoan- c3aut, I received an invitation to dinner, and afccnding foine ftairs, found the Turk fitting in (late, converfing with my Syrian Captain, and to whom probably I was indebted for the civility. Dinner was foon ferved np, and placed upon a round table, elevated half a foot from the floor, and fitting crofs legged on a carpet, helped ourfclves with fpoons, as the Turkilh manner of c'ireffing meat renders knives ufelels ; for if a fovi^l is boiled in the piLau, OF A SEA OFFICER. ^53 pilau, it is fo overdone, that it is in pieces when at table. Nor do the Turk* -rcr ufe entire joints boiled or roafted ; chiefly living on rice, macaroni, and dilher. that are funplc, though well cooked. A fervant in waiting helped us to (lierbet, a liquor refembling le- monade, and of a very pleafing flavour. Our repafl: ended, pipes and coflice were immedi- ately brought in, and in the afternoon retired to look after the crevv, who were regaling thcmfelves round an excellent fire on the beach, and while their fupper was preparing in a large kettle fufpended on three flicks, they* clofely embraced their flaflts of wine, that by degrees infpired the deUyery of fome good fongs. Mount Lebanon; though at fome di^^ancc, fcemcd near, and coniiderah);' overtopping the other Syrian hills, might with great propriety be .,( u\ I! I ' t >^>i #54 VOYAGES and TR \VI LS Kc called the ** loftj Lebanon." Tiiis lihnd of TortoCa is called Ru-iui by the Turks, and i;i fuppofed to be the ancient Ar/ad or Arphad, mentioned in the Scripture; and by the Grccfci and Ronnans, callcvl Aradus. The next morning the wind bfcMf fair from the fouthward, arid fctting fail, coafled along, and by the iiclp of oars, and a light breeze^ arrived the 8tli of December, at the port ck r.atlchca. Laticlica was formerly called Laodicia, and frequently mentioned in the New Teftament. It tics fomc leagues to the fouthward of Scanda- roon, and in longitude 36^ 50 I' , Utitu^le 35*' 30 N. The harbour i-^ fecured by a ftrot g wall, projcdijig in the ft a, and on the left-hand of its ei\trar.oe is a large caftlc of a f^jnaic ioxrWy bat at prcfent In a ruined Ihite ; the cnf^fi'ri-hotift* OF A SEA OFFICER. M5 cuflom-houre and a few other buildings are «cicdcd near tlie harbour, but the town is half a mile dillant towards the country, where I waited on monlieur Olivier, tlic French Con- sul, to whom I liad obtained letters at Cyprus, A conliderable trade is carried on by the French, and many merchants of that nation are fetilcd here ; the country to a coufHle^'alvlc < xtent artmnd is Hat, and produces a mild fort of tobacco, univcrfally liked and known, thrnup;hout Turkey, by the name of Latikcan tobacco ; ibr though the Turks fmokc great quantities of tobacco, yet it is much weaker tlv:m the mildcll we receive from Virginia. Fhe fricndlhip of Monfieur Olivier renderect agreeable the Ihort (la/ I made at Jialichea, when a fmall caiavan being foon to let out lor Aleppo, 1 hired a hoi IV, and agreeing for Uie carriage of m^- luggage, bid adieu to my friends, and joined it. U Karly "A m n ! i •'■ '-*«*'-«iii«': \ ) 'm r II I 1 I ■ 156 VOYAGES AJfD TRAVELS Early in the morning of the 1 2th the ca- ravan left Latichea, the weather was very cold, and purfuing our route to the eaftward, towards evening began to crofs the high range of mountains, that from Seandaroon to the fouthward, forms the coaft of Syria. - As many of my European friends have fre- quently enquired what kind of coach or car- riage a caravan is, I ftiall therefore mention,, that the original word Karwan, or Carvan means a company travelling together for con- venience or protedbion, with themfelves and goods, carried by camels, mules, or horfcs.. For the roads that I have feen in Alia would render it impoflible for any carriage or coach to travel ; being only paths, and thofe in the mountainous parts hardly paiTahle. But thcie irconvcniencies are in fomc degree compen- fated for, to the European traveller, by the unufua£ f-^ *t^i' a 4MISiJt' OF A SEA OFFICER, 157 unufual appearance of the Turkilh buildings, and the romantic views that are fo frequently met with, particularly on thefe mountains of Syria, where myrtles grow fpontaneoufly, and cataradts rulhing from the rocks, arc con- trafted with the extenfive view of the plains, that, thronged vrith villages, feparate the ranges of mountains. Aleppo lay near 80 miles towards the north- caft, and as caravans travel flow, were four days and a half on the journey. The firll night we ftieltercd under a building not better than a cow-houfe, and fufFered, from the ex. treme cold, great inconvenience ; fetting out very early the next day, travelled on through a wild romantic country, and arrived at a town fitiiated in the middle of a beautiful plain. We kund here a good caravan fera ; thefe buildings, ereded for the convenience of tra- vellert K ■I I, i -«i»«)"*«Ai(^;- I' l.l» 158 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS vcllcrs, are in general, ftrongly built, enclof- ing a fquare, and the fides divided into fmalt rooms, where the traveller finds fcarcclvr fuflicient room to lay his neceflary equipage, and form his bed. If a fire or provifions are wanted, he calls the waiter of the cara vanfcra, called the Odda Balhi, and giving him money, he buys charcoal, or what the place affords. The inclofed yard receives the €amels or horfcs, and after being unloaded, are fhewn to their refpcdive apartments^ The luxuries of an Englilh inn you are no^ to expett ; no Betty the chambermaid, with tarts, cuftards, or your bed warmed ; for txery Turkifii traveller provides his own bed, and here meets with only (helter from th'i weather, and perhaps a few fimple articles of provifion. CHAR *«/■ -^ i^i^ii^,- OF A SEA OFFICER. i59 CHAP. XIV. >5 \ Remains during the Carnival at JUppo, The plague breaking oul^ joins a large Caravan, \ \J N the fifth day fince our (feparture from Latichea, in the morning we perceived at a iftance, the city of Aleppo ; that, iituated to the northward of the Great Arabian Defert, that borders on the Perfian Gulf, is the ca- pital of Turky in Afia ; it is of conKiderable extent, (landing on a cluftcr of fmall hills, and furrounded by a high 'vall, built in the .'incient ftilc, with great gates leading to the principal ro.ids. Many of its Mofques are large and well built, and though confiderably high, \\% t i6o VOYAGES AND TRAVELS high, nrr overlooked by a large Ciifllc on a lull iicdi the (TiUre ol* ihc city. The cura- v,in rnlcia! through one of the ucllerM ^ate-. titui having pafVeil through Icvcral narrow Jlreels, \ anivcvl in a Ipmioiis rqiiarc, ami alightcti at the houfc o! Mr. Saiiih, the Kn^hlli (oniiil. With him, rcfurd Mr. Vcr- ntMU the i-onliii ol rripoly ; aiivl having Jt- hveral the liilpatLhes I hail been ihargal UMrh, I incivcd a polite and pretling invi- tation to paftakeol the enti'itainnicnts ol the Carnival. I'his was .it the lattci end <»l iJc- ^inlKr 17VS5. A\k\ thouv;h the winter in tliHc parts is of ih >rf duraiioii, yet the coM i$ very pierruig. Wc accorvlmgly took the bc.il inctl.ovl to wuhrtiMid "t, by pathng the carnival or Chrilbna8» in one coniinued cir- million of e;Uerianiincnt;5, at the l-Vcn; h, VcnciKin, Oiiich, or Knglilh conl'uls ; wlicre the OP A SKA OFJ ICER. ]5i fhc (bcicty t)f many rcfpcdlable European fa- milies was hciglucned by the fplcndnur of liallcrn inagniruxncc. For inoft of their iKUifi-s were elcgunily furniflicd, with car- pets, lopliiis, cuduons, dec. ihc manufadlurc or IVrfiu. We rrcqiirndy formed balls and mafijue- nulcs, ilicrcby giving an opportunity for the ladies to C()nvu)cc u«, they were by no nicnns tlcficUnl in polite accomplilhments. A fUangtT might ("iippofc, thcfc parties were formed promifiumilly, with the gcntcclcr Turks. Uy no means. The Chriftians and Turks never nlTbciate, except to tranfa6l mer- cantile bulincfs, and then it is in the moft hiconie manner ; for they confider us as dogs, and unbelievers, nor can our pride permit us to elleem them, even as equals; caufmg 4he Euroncan families to unhc, as if for fell- defence ; \ t . ■1 V ii .^p. «MM''«'«>niiiiiii 1 62 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS defence ; and dimlniihing thofe invidious di^- lindlions of religion that are fo generally kept up in Europe. This is caufed by the reign- ing motive of i.lf-intereft, fufficiently ftrong in religion itfelf, cr its votaries, to create ei- ther a reparation or junction. The principal language ufed by the ladies is the Italian; and in thcli company, received an improvement, that by the grammar alone, I could not have attained. Indeed, ladies are generally allowed to be the beft inftrudtors, and in confequence, have always paid the higheft attention to their example. For tho* theTurkilh women immured in the Haram*s dare not afTert the prerogative of our Euro- pean females, yet we, by no meaub, chofe to follow the tyrannic condudl of their tur- baned Bafhaws, but fhewed a laudable exam- ple, by fubmitting to the didtates of our fair companions. or A SEA OFFICER. 163 tompanions. Nor were wc the lefs happy, being tlie moft jovial fet, at that time, withiii the walls of Aleppo. Tiic women here are of feveral elafles ; ift, Thofc from Europe, wJio after fome time's re- fidence in Turkey, cbnform in a great degree to its drcfs, preferving the language and ac- eomplirtimcnts of their rcfjicdiive eountries* adly, The Chriftian natives, of the Greek of Armenian ehurch* ^dly. The Jeweflesj and laftly, The Turkilh women ; including thofe brought ftom Georgia, or Circafia. Every- woman in the ftreets is clofely veiled, and if a European attempted to fpeak to a Turkifh wo- man, it might be attended with fiita', confe- quences, running a rifque of being ftabbedj of turning Mahometan, or at leall of paying a confidoraljlc fine ; therefore to procure thofe agreeable interviews, th:;t in fpite of philofo- pliy, are fo univeri'ally lought after, a ftran- 'I ■6 I' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) / ^ // // ^^ .^^i^. fiTj,^^ A .^- .4' 4l A % «5 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■ 50 2.0 1.8 u mil 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation \ ^ •^ :\ \ V ». ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEeSrER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 <^>^ V i\ /^. its M ^v * i64 VOYAGES and TRAVELS gerhas only to form an acquaintance at the Jews houfes, where the Turkifli women frequently vifit, and by the mafter-key of a douceur well applied, the Hebrew lady winks at the inno- cent recreation of a tete-a-tete. My refpeded relation, the Conful, had amply participated of the fweets of Aleppo ; and after fomc vifits to Aleppo, from his Conful- fhip at Tripoly, became celebrated for his gallantry ; for the Turks once on hearing of his arrival, exclaimed, Voila ! encore Monfieur^ V " ; // a baise^ un moitie de. notres femmes ; it il ejl retournky pour Baifer V autre. Sc much for Harams, or any fuch confinements where love carries the key, and muft gala admittance. Here are alfo many veiled coquetts^ for pafs- ing^ln the ftreet when^they fuppofed no Turk was * c 5- k IS I \ OF A SEA OFFICER. ,6r was in fight, I have feen them throw afide the veil, receiving fuch a broadfide from the dif- play of charms, that has frequently kept mc in chafe the remainder of the day. The number of inhabitants at Aleppo are computed at about two hundred thoufand^ confifting in reality, of Turks, Jews, Infidels, and Heretics ; the common language is the Arabic, as none but the rich Turks fpeak the Turkilh language ; this is accounted for, by the proximity of Aleppo to the defert, and its diftance from the interiour part of Turkey. A confiderable trade is carried on by the French and Italians, who fupply the Turks with cloth, glafs, European toys, and other articles ; receiving in return the produce of Turkey, together with Eaft India merchandires that Is brought by caravans from Baffora at the I. (I »,', i > imtw »i ■" »««»»?•" i: I '^ \6e VOYAGES AND TRAVELS the head of the Perfian Gulf. Our extenfivc commerce to India round the cape of Good Hope, has gradually caufed a decreafe of trade at Aleppo, and that of the Englifh is very^ in-r confiderablc. The government of the city at this time was under a Bafhaw of three tails, he bore a good and peaceable character, whereby the inhabitants enjoyed fome degree of repofe, after the cruel and turbulent admi- niftration of his predeceffor ; for promoted to commands from the feraglio. or palace of the grand -Signior at Conftantinopk, they are frequently obliged to ufe every extortion, to continue by force of prefents, thofe fmiles that promoted them ; and the arbitrary and hidden manner th;it coyers the tran{ii«£tions of their government, gives alfo too great a Icoj e for avarice and ielf- intercft, to glois over and conceal the abufes it has occalioncd. This obliges the Turks in general to live moderate, fpar ■*•' OF A SEA OFFICER. 167 for if fufpe(51ed to be rich, they are fure of beinp; fleeced ; and by the pretence of a loan, that is never to be repaid, the Aga or Baihaw, with infinite San^ Froid^ helps to unload their purfe. Different governments have different me- thods ; here the Turk at once knows he is robbed, but is liappy to furvcy the extent of his fate, and diverted of patriotic ardour for the good of his country, is not under the ne- ccffity of turning his brain by bills, and amend- ments, that like tricks of legerdemain, are by the artfulnefs of impofition, too often ftiewn as falfe lig;hts to deceive their country, or attempted fpecioufly to oppofe the truths an(^ eloquence of a vcdX patriot. Among the Turks it is frequently the prac- t;ice of ^ Bafhaw to ^ive fentence, and be him. ■4/ n 168 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS felf the executioner ; for which purpofe a fabre is conftantly kept at hand, and after it has beheaded a thoufand perfons, is buried, and a new one fupplies its place. But as moll evils has its attending good, this feverity keeps the nation honeft ; as a Turk migh: lofe his head for Healing the value of a ihilling, as ot a thoufand pound. But univerfal honcfty is a character the Turks can boaft of, and is alfo allowed by thofe who have dealings with them. They have no hereditary ni^bility, for from flaves in the feraglio, they are fuddcnly given commands, and often as fuddenly deprived of them. The only diftinftion that defccnds is ihe green turban, wore by the dcfcendants of Mahomet ; they are called Sheriffs y and now form a numerous and powerful body ; for if a Turk marries the daughter of a IherifF, all his children are entitled to the green turban, and accounts for the fheriffs being fo numerous; many i '* op A SEA OFFICES. iSg many Arabs and Turks of the loweft rank en- joy this diftindion, that is, treated with ref- pea, from regard to the blood and memory of their prophet. A flieriff having tranfgrefred againft the law, was brought before the Cady, and pleaded, to cfcape puniOimcnt, " the refped: due to his defcent." " I acknowledge that," replied the Cady, " but as it principally lies in the turban, take it off, and receive the ftripes." Caravan 9 frequently arrive at Aleppo, from Baflora, that lies about fifteen days journey acrofs the Defert, to the fouthward ; thereby 1 had opportunities of feeing many Arabs, that, feledled from the different tribes, fcrved as a guard to the caravans. They are of the middle fize, lean and very adlive, of a brown colour, with bufhy black beards. Being at dinner f '■^ fimm^'w m*^ BMHn ,A I \ I 'I ') < 176 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS dinner at the confiil's, the Armenian fervant, Mardo, introduced a perfon who had juft at' rived with a caravsln, who by his drefs and beard* refembled an Arab. When, addreflin*^ Mr. Smith in good EngHfh, he rtcognifed his o. i acquaintance, a Mr. Steward, an Eng- lifh gentleman returning from his travels into Perfia, and for the convenience of tra- velling had thus mctamorphofed himfelf. Sit- ting down at table, we found him to be a moft entertaining and infirudlive companion ; he could hardly be otherwife, being one ot thofe geniufts, who, with as much eafe would reconnoitre an entire continent, as fome coulct fide a day's journey. Though probably of Scotch defcenr, he was a native of London ; and fpo'-:e fluently, Germrin, Italian, French, Turkifh, Arabic, Perfian, and fome of the dialedls of India. This was his fecond toui-' through Europe, Turky, Arabia, India and Perfia ; ^; OF A SLA OFFICER. Perfia; and lie Conflantitiople. 171 was now on his return to The laft war i„ India, he had been taken prifoner by Hyder AIy,.and from his univer- fal abilities, foon became a favourite ; and pro- mofed to the command of a troop of black cavalry. In this fi.uation, being narrowly obferved, he was obliged at a principal en- gagement to charge his countrymen fword in hand, recevJng a wound on his wrift, that di- viding the bone, made it appear as if double. At the conclufion of the war, one of the chief articles was, the delivery of the Englift prifoners ; but Hyder, unwilling thofe, men who had had fuch opportunities to obferve his flrong-holds, and manoeuvres, Ihould re- turn to his enemies with the information, apparently agreed to their delivery, at the • , ^ fame I StlS'^s?^-; ;) f 172 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS fame time he refolved on their death ; and the officers being furniflied with paflports, ap- proached with confidence his frontiers, where they were maflacrcd and cut off. K I ^ y w < t \ 1. 1 Steward had fufpeded this, and difguifmg himfelf, took a contrary route into Perfia, and was almoft the only man that efcaped. He now joined the general feftivity, and by his entertaining cOnverfation, contributed to encreafe the pleafure of the carnival ; and the ladies thinking the Arabian beard now to be ufelefs, he gallantly fubniitted to the tonfor, and appeared about thirty- five years of age. I mttcK regretted, I had not the pltafure of meeting at Aleppo Mr. La Touche, the late Conful at Balfora ; who, laft year, pafled this way on his return to Ireland. The character I .— :ap— . ;;;j(C*&.^iw!3P"^^> , -Kg: =■>««--'" '■*>>'; -»«t ■ nd the s, ap- where ;uiring Perfia, caped. ind by ted to ; and d now to the ; years kafure ;, the paffed The .arader OF A SEA OFFICER. 173 eliarader he left behind, does honor to him- h\t and country ; and, is one of the uiany convincing proofs, that IriHimen are not de- ficient in abiUties or virtue, but like dia- monds neglected, have, through larrow po. "^Xj been too frequently deprived of exhi- bibiting thofe talents, that even jealoufy muft refpedt. Leaving Baflbra, his train was filled by hundreds of Arabs, who voluntarily efcorted him over the Dcfert to Aleppo: many of them croffed to Latichea, where he embarked, and by their tears, proved that gratitude and refpe^ can be affeaionately felt by Arabs, The ftreets of Aleppo, and of moft Turk- ifli cities, are too narrow to permit any coach, therefore the carriage that fupplies its place, is called a Tartaravan, being* narrow, and refembling a kind of litter, with poles projeding -rr" «/l . 174 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS projecting at each end, and carried by two horfes, one before and the other behind. This is by no means a common cuftom, being ufed only by a few rich individuals, particularly on cxcurfions at a fmall diftance from Aleppo, where the furrounding country is beautified with Turkilh gardens, watered by fraall ri- vers and brooks. Here are erected a kind of fummer-houfe, called Kiuf^, where the Turks fit to enjoy their tobacco and coffee, together with a view of their gardens ; that, undiftorted by the extravagancies of art, pio- duce abundance and variety. t. . . ......... ^ . > We accompanied the Conful on one of thefe trips, a few miles from Aleppo; Mr. Smith was carried in his Tartaravan, and mounting fome Arabian horfes, arrived at the banks of a river, where his Armenian fer- yants had ereded tents, one for themfelves, to >4 r^i&~ y^^i^-.'. •.M^t^i^i^^^f .-it,. v-igeM*.. OF A SEA OFFICER. ns ' two This ; ufe(i ;ularly leppo, LUtified lall ri- a kind ere the , coffet!, 5; that, irt, pio- one of. o; Mr. in, and at the lan fer- ifelves^ to JO prepare dinner ; and the other for the company, that loon confifted of fevcral gen- tlemen and ladies : after a plcafant walk through the gardens, we returned to an ex- cellent entertainment, partly in the European, and partly in the Eaftern ftilc ; one of the difhes being an Omelet, made of an oftrich's egg, lately brought from the Defert, and fufE- cicntly large for three people to dine off. This was fucceedcd by coffee and excellent wine, and fome neighbouring Arabs, forming a dance at the entrance of the tent, enliv- ened the fcene. The day clofnig, we flruck our tents, and returned to Aleppo, where we foon had rea- fon to believe the plague had made its appear- ance. The northern parts of Turkey are more fubjed: to this fcourge, than the coun- try near Aleppo, as it feldom vifits this city ?nore tlian every ten or twelve years. This may ti t ■ Ji' 4**^-. -_-.--.. r 175 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS • may arife from its detached fituation, not re- quiring the conftant communication by cara- vans, which fpread the plague from town to tow n ; alfo, from the fine and pure air it enjoys: the inhabitants were now dying twenty or thirty of a day, and though, by fome, fuppofed to fall vidtims to the fmall- pox, gave fufficient reafon to believe, it w^i^ really the plague. The Turks being prcdeftinarians, ufe no precaution to efcapc it j while the Chriftians remain, as it is termed, Jhut up^ in the upper (lories of their houfes, and receive their pro- vifions by means of a rape and pulley, and when hoiftcd up, immerfe them in a tub of water, to remove any particles of the plague. I have been affured, from the beft autho- rity, that during the plague the Turks, from the narrownefs of their ftreets, communicate thi? % m J 'X mi .„^^s*^ '■■^SP^,^^:Sh-Mii»^' ^'^ LS ■ ly not re- by cara- i town to are air it )W dying .ough, by :he fmall^ ve, it w^? 3, ufe no Chriftians the upper their pro- lilley, and 1 a tub of he plague. aeft autho* irks, from nrounicate thi* OP A SlEA OFFICER. 177 i diforder, by touching each others clothes as chey pafs, and fall dead, as if finking through numerous pitfalls. Alfo, that the clothes of the dead are expbfed to fale, and bought with the utmoft deliberation, though fure to infcdl the perfon who wears, or touches them ; all that can be faid, i?, De Gujl'tbus non ed dlfputandtm ; and aifo, accounts for the many tens of thoufands that, yearly, are cut off. My relation, the Conful, gave me the choice, of either remaining with him, fhut up, for two or three months, or to join a large caravan, that was intended for Smyrna. I preferred returning to Smyrna, from whence I might find an opportunity- of returning to Europe : and purchafing a Turkifh drefs, took leave of Aleppo, and mounting my horfe, joined the caravan, that lay encamped near the walls. My baggage was given in charge io i," J -1' .mt'iv-'-^ tjiyiiiT-iea % \\ c /i T i; » I 17^ VOYAGES AND TRAVELS' to the leader of the caravan, and early in the morning, of the third of March 1786, be- gan our journey. Before I left AleppOj I was informed by ccnful Smith, that many of the loftieft and fined ruins of the city of Palmyra had lately been thrown down by an earthquake. This information he had received from fome Arabs, Vvho had pafled that way, and which I think proper to mention, as it happened fiocc thofe beiutiful drawings and engravings of the Views of Palmyra were made.' .J'VSj- '^ I, i C H 4 P, .•'?»"4iii»"»« lii. n' "',->--'»^' ^ OP A SEA OFFICER. '79 CHAP. XV. the Caravan leaves Jkppo ; and crojfmg the Euphrates, paffes through part of Turcoman nla, the city ofC^/aria, ^c. and arrives at Smyrna, k r- VJ U R caravan confifted of about four hun- dred horfes and mules, laden with bales of the Burdets, and other rich manufacflures of Aleppo ; and accompanied by near -m hun- dred horfemcn, including the author, who could hardly recognife himfelf, his hat being exchanged for a ftriped blue and white turban, and the fhort coat of garment, doled 'urope, for a TurkiOi at tije u^aifl by a girdle, that Supported a fabre and a cafe of Piftol This II ..-rf,ii»'.«.>-*« ,«,-r,- T 1 1 80 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS This nup.erous company, was divided into ^^ifferent mefTcs, and being recommended to a rich venerable Turk, called Fadgi Abdii!- hh ; my party, confiftcd of himfelf, his Ton Bakir, and a green turbaned defcendant of Mahomet, called Muftapha. We were at- ^tended by feveral Turks on foot, called Mukroes; thefe helped to load, or unload ^ht cattle, and were alfo armed : and many of thefe pcdeftrians were of the race of the prophet. 1 ^WW u \ ' Forming an extenfive line, v\e purfued our route to the northward, under the condu6l and guidance of the Karwan. BefiJes our arms, we were all provided with pipes, and ■ as the Turks are immoderately fond of fmoaking, we kept up a conflant fmoke, be- ing pcrfe6lly trained in the manner of lighting them on horfeback ; for holding the pip^ in • V. our i V ■^"*MMM*r -'--*-*-.. «._* ^ELS ivided into mended to igi Abdu!- If, his fon :cndant of ; were at- ot, called or unload md many ice of the purfued e condudl (iJes our lipes, and fond of 3oke, be- f lighting e pipe in Our OF A SEA OFFICER. ySi our mouth, could llrike fire with a flint and Heel upon a piece of fungous fubflance, that indantly lighting, was then laid upon the tobacco. The pipe is earned in a cloth cafe that hangs from the fhoulders of the horfe. and might almoft make a ftranger imagine it was a fort of carabine. The fame formality attends the carriage of the tobacco, being ge. nerally in a large cloth purfe, and fufpended from t'-ie girdle. The tobacco ufed in 1 urkey, is lighter in colour, and much milder, than that of Ame- rica, as it never occafions fpitting. Befides the long pipe, I have frequently (een the Turks ufe a fmoaking machine, called an Arquill ; this is made of a cocoa nut Ihell half filled with water, with an earthen cup that receives the tobacco, commvioicating to a tube for the mouth, and the imoke pafllng thro. the •*^,-*^» — • 1: w \ i , I I 1 8 z VOYAGES and TRAVELS the water, is more cool and agreeable. Tki$ requires a greater exertion than the common pipe, and is attended with fallow, fickly countenances. This method is fimilar to the Caallean ufed in Perfia, or the Hookers in the Eaft Indies. To O^iQxv to how great a pitch the love of fmoaking may attain, it is related, that Shah Abbas, the great Sultan of Periia, made a law, to punifli this indulgence with death ; but many chofe to forfake their habi- tations, and hidethemfdves in the mountains, rather than be deprived of this infatuating en- joyment. We may again fay De Gujl'ibus non eft dijputandutn, Tlie caravan proceeding (lowly along, to- wards evening arrived at a fmall plain encircled almoft by a river; there w^e encamped ; the mukroes « :'| £t-^- --'--^^rn ELS :ble. TJiis le common ivv, fickly nilar to the [-lookers in OF A SEA OFFICER. i»J the love lated, that of Perlia, ycnce with their habi- Tiountains, tiating en- ujlibiis 11071 along, to- i enchcled iped ; the mukroes mukroes unloaded the horfcs, and with tlie bales formed hollow fquares, in thefe the different companies layed their luggage and arms, and while fires were preparing the fup- per, the horfcs were foddered and made faft near us, and during the night kept a continual noife with the fmall brafs bells that hung from their necks. The Turks, when travelling, conftantly carry their cooking utenfils, that are ingenioully packed in a fmall fpace ; this is neceifary, on account of their inns or caravanferas conUri- buting only bare walls and fhclter, and what- ever raw ingredients they may procuie, it is neceffary they ihould drefs them. This occa- fions them to be good cooks, and in general very clean ones. We found the nighfs exceeding cold, and had provided ourfelvcs with thick bkmkets, formed % ; < ^•/ ^., ^*»«% _ "*r; » |ri . ■\' I. i. I' i ^ ' ^ 4 184 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS formed without threads like a hat; each horfc had alfo one of them; and old Karwan miflinj; a covering, thought to replace it, by uncover- ing the chriftian ; I inftantly jumped up, and feizing a fire-brand, began to weild it; old Karwan lifting another, we proceeded to cart and tierce acrofs the fire, when Muftapha awaking, feparated the combatants. 1 wo hours before day- light we decamped, and began to afcend the hills that lie to the northward of Aleppo; and in the afternoon arrived at the Turkifti city of Antab. We ftopt at a large caravanfeia, and leaving our horfes to the care of the mukrocs, called the Odiia bafJji^ to purchafe for us charcoal and provifions, and depofited our luggage in one of the bare walled apartments. Here was a manufadiory of printed cottons; nor could I avoid remarking, that from the abundant pro- dudioa ;> 1' ¥ tt-^- - 1 ' 'M' ;flil*i»-"--(Ssr- i«»ffl^f -^"^"^■■PWi^P ^ELS each horfe an mifTing f uncover- :cl up, and Id it; old :d to cart Muftapha fwo liours i began to thward of ed at the id leaving Des, called ircoal and e in one re was a r could I dant pro- duction OF A SEA OFFICER. 185 dudion of filk and cotton, the lower orders of Turks arc better cloathed, than the common people of Great Britain. The fmall unglazed window of our room was oppofite to a black- fmith's {hop, and I obferved Mulciber draw a lurk's tooth with his pincers, as compleatly as the nioft fcientific inftrument could have done ; for where lay the difference ? The artful Eu- ropean dentift, after a ledure on the impor- tance of his art, at length, for a guinea, per- forms the operation ; whilft Mulciber for a pipe of tob-xtco, convinces you of his fkill, by exultingly fhewing the expelled tooth between his pincers. But I think them both inferiour to the ingenious inventor of the following contrivance ; who informed his friend he al- ways drew his teeth by means of a piece of catgut faftened round the tooth, with a bullet fixed at the contrary end, and inferted into a loaded piflol ; when extending the catgut in a direiSt ^iii^»f^'Li,^.-i^. ^^ \i 'I \* Tl I; ii I k 1—^ \ -^•^tmwm'^^^*-'^ 186 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS dirc(ft line with the tooth, fired the piftol, and out flew the tooth. His friend thought the method wonderful, and begged he would pre- pare his apparatus, to expel a very trouble- fome tooth ; this was foon done, and the cat- gut being ftretched, the patient cried out, ** Stop, dear Doctor, I have changed my mind." " I have not changed mine," re plied the opera- tor, " and you are a fool and coward for your pains." So immediately pulling the trigger, away flew the tooth. It is a common opinion in Europe that the Turks in general chew opium ; this is not the cafe,beingonly ufedby the very rich, thofe who dudy the law, or meireiigcrs who are obliged to ufe difpatch, for when weary, it gives them flrength and fpirit to proceed. For on con- iidering that this drug is brought from the Eaft In^es, it may reafonably be inferred that it muft n 1 f ELS )i(lol, and Dught the vould pre- y trouble- dd the cat- :ried out, my mind." the opera- d for your he trigger. pe that the 5 is not the thofe who ire obliged ives them r on con- n the Eift ed that it muft ^F A SEA OFFICER. 187 rauft be too dear an article for common con- fumption ; and fo the cafe really is. The deleterious effcds of opium may be confidercd from the following cafe : A Turk called Muftapha Satoor, an inhabi- tant of Sediqui (a beautiful village, fix miles from Smyrna) almoft 45 years of age, told an Englifli phyfician, that his conftant dofe was three drachms a day of crude opium, one half of which he took in the morning, and the other half in the afternoon ; but that he lEould (fafely) take double that quantity. The phyfician, therefore, rcfolving to be an eye witneis of what he heard, provided the beft opium he could get, and weighed it nicely into drachms, of which the Turk took a drachm and a half made up into three pills* and chewed them with a little water. The vifi-^ A a blc ■.-\ <»*'*Wl.Mfc IW^ ^""B 5: itJ i w ' W...IB f-caMS ^ i83 V07AGES and TRAVAILS ble effcfts the opium had on him were to make his eyes fparkle, and give a new air cf life and brightnefs to his face. At three o'clock in the afternoon, he came to the do(Stt)r again, and took the fame quantity as in the jnorning, and appeared afterwards with the fame fymptoms, alleging that it had always the fame effeds on him, giving him vigour and fpirit, and that it was become as neceflary to him as any other part of his fu^cnance ; that it made him fitter for procreation; that it never afFe^Hed him with fleepand drowfinefsj but rather hindered his rcpofe, when he hap- pened to take an ove;* dofe ; that he had ufed it for 25 years, beginning with the bignefs of a grain, and gradually proceeding to larger quantities ; and that the want of it, and the defire of taking it, grew daily upon him. The effeds it had on his health were, weak- nefs. I im were to . new air cf At tliree to the dodlor ty as in the rds with the t had always r him vigour c as neceflary is fu^enancc ; creation; that id drowfinefsj vhen he hap- it he had ufed the bignefs of ling to larger of it, and the f upon him. , were, weak- nefSj k 6p a sea officer. i hfifs, fmall legs, and gums eaten away; fo that the teeth ftood bare to the roots ; his complexion was yeliow,- and he appeared older by twenty years than he really was. One remarkable inftance of taking opium I very well remember: I became acquainted in London with an officer who had contrac- ted violent rheumatic pains by his fervice in America, and to footh them ufed Opium ; the want of it, together with the quantity, daily encreafed, and at the time I knew him he took three dofes a day, each dofe confifting of ten fmall pills, each as big as th6 head of a mid- dle-fized pin. The efFcds were fimilar to the laft inftance, and he ihortly after fell a martyr to its ufe. Our route frohi Aleppo had been towards the north-eaft, as a rebellion had broke out at the fti ■■IT x ,U J90 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS the pafs near Scandaroon, called Byas, attd through which lay the dired road to Smyrna, a diftance of about 15 d^ys journey; for in thefe parts they do not compute by the nnmber of miles, but by day's journies, each being of about from twenty-five to thirty miles. For caravans travel flow, feidom exceeding that diftance. This obliged usf to make a confide- rable circuit to the eaftward to avoid the rebels, as alfo to pafs the ranges of Mount Taurus by the moft convenient paffage* Leaving Antab, continued our journey, and on the 6th of March, early in the morn- ing, perceived a troop of horfemen advancing towards us, and preparing to receive them, diminifticd the extent of our line of march, by doubling it, leaving the mukroes, who were well armed, to remain by the loaded horfes, while the hoifemcn, forming a troop, continued Will 71 w5^" Ti-j>i*«;; 'ELS OF A SEA OFFICER. 191 1) I Byasy and to Smyrna, :ney; for in the nnmber ach being of miles. For ;eeding that [e a confide- 3 avoid the s of Mount aflage* ur journey, nthe morn- n advancing ceive them, of march, oes, v^rho the loaded ng a troop, continued I continued by an orderly array to face the (Grangers. They ftill continued to advance, when our troop halting, received a volly of mufquetry ; this we returned, and preferving our line unbroke, had the fatisfadion to fee them wheel off, leaving two men and a horfe dead on the fpot. We received no lofs, except one of the Turks (lightly wounded, and for the remai.. ier of our journey continued our route unmolefted. Crofling fome parts of Mount Taurus, we met with confideral ie quantities of fnow, that from the narrownefs of the paths, much endangered the loaded horfes, two of whom fell down a precipice, and were killed. The caravan now approached Turcomania, and croffed feveral fmaller branches of the great river Euphrates, that from the northern parts of Turkey in Afia, runs towards the fouth- ward, and iifembogues hfelf into the Perfian Gulf. The ' \ I I., H ■ 9 i •' 111 if 1. V ' > I « y, ■i ^ i ■ Kji VOYAGES AND TRAVELS The inhabitants of Turcomania are of the fame origin as the other Turks, orly preferving the manners of the ancient Scythians ^ from whom they are defcended. They lead in general a wandering life, feeding great herds of cattle, and fliifting their tents from plain to plain ; they are a well made and warlike people ; their horfes are excellent, not fo fleet as the Arabians, but ftronger, and of a more warlike appearance. The caravan fre- quently halted at theit villages^ where wc pr cured good provifions, with milk and excellent honey. ■{• The internal parts of Turkey in Afia ex- hibits immenfe plains thinly inhabited ; this may be accounted for 5om the ravages of the plague, as the caravan pafled through nume- rous villages entirely depopulated by it ; and though the Turks are reckoned very nume^ lous, I believe, from the extcnfiVc circuit 1 made K . i. is AVELS inia are of the irly prefer ving :ythianSi from They lead in ig great herds ts from plain ; and warlike :ellent, not fo ger, and of a [C caravan fre- :Sj where we ith milk and y in Afia ex-^ nhabited ; this ravages of the irough nume- ed by it ; and d very nume^ nfiVc circuit 1 made I OF A SEA OFFICER. iqj made tlirough the center of tlieir enjpirc, that their number falls '\ort in proportion to their extent of territory. We frequently paft among the ruins of cities, whofe names are nov/ forgot, and their marble pillars ferving to adorn tlie burying grounds of the Turks, which ire diftingaillie4 f)/ head-Hones, caived in the fhape of a tur-^ Ijan, but without a face, as their maxim is, neither to carve or paint a reprefentation cf any living figure, confidering it is not in their power to give life. This may be one reafon the Turks are deficient iii the arts of painting and fculpture, whofe chiefeft beauty confifts in approaching by art the animation of the Uving. The foil of Afiatic Turky is very fruitful ^nd eafy to cultivate, their plough-fhares being 1^ 1 II I i ^ ■ k ^ 'Tr- l> a •:: 194 VOYAGES AND TRAVii.[,S 4S frequently of wood as of iron ; their ploughs are moftly drawn by Buffaloes that are extremely hardy, and much refemble oxen; and the abundant harvefts may contri- bute to that flothful character that is frequently given to the Turks , as well as the warm, though temperate climate they enjoy ; for the active reftleffnefs of a European furprizes the Turk, as he thinks a great portion of the time fpent in ikipping about, might more rati- onally be taken up, by fitting at eafe and fmoaking. This difference is even perceivable in their gait, the Turk Aides along with a fo- lemn ^ir, hardly raifing his flippers from the ground ; while the European, taken up witl> real or in>aginary bufinefs, hurries ^bout as if purfued by a fnake. It would be ufelefs in my peregrinations, to particularize every Turkifh town the caravan paffed ^'■fp iron ; their ifFaloes that -h refemble may contri- is frequently the warm, 3y; for the urprizes the tion of the It more rati- it eafe and perceivable with a fo- 's from the n up wit}^ 5 About as nations, to he caravan pafled if, t-F A SEA OFFICER. j^^ Paffed _ ,h,.ough, as it could afford as li«/. entcna.„,ncat as the perufal of the Hebrew alphabet ; nor could any n.ap thereby exaftly point out the track ; but as th^ . • • „ . ' "^ ^^ f "« ancient city of Cafarea, called by the TuH-c kw • • / uic 1 urks Kylaria, is laid down, 1 ftall only obferve, that on our route ending towards Smyrna, we paffed through !l"\ "'y> -hich being entirely inhabited L , "'■^'' ^"^ '" ^°'"'"°n with other of th. •'ntenou. citi.s, no other peeuli.nties bu; -f^ues, and ruins, th^t ,™eht pu..,e the moil learned antiquarian to unravel. Amidfi the« in^feenfe trafls. .. oaffed hrough village, inhabited by defendants of he primitive Chririians; they enjoy the ^raa.ce of their religion, .recording to th. Greek church ; their patriarch refiding at Conftantinople. They are diftinguiflied bv ^'"e turbans, as the T,-i-o ' cne iL:Jvs ao not permit H b .. •I i' 5 i ,)^' i I •in > > rif W. .^.*' ^^-j^ I ■V 196 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS them to wear the colours ufed by themfelvcgv On the 30th of March ^ the caravan halted in the evening, at a villager on the top of a hiir that refembled a fugar-loaf ; the houfes forming a circfe round its fummit, were fcooped out of the iblid rock* As wc were to remai^n here daring the night, the company divided, and my meffmates Abdul- lah, Bakir, and Mudapha, were ^ewn tf> one of thefe quarries. The outward room had but a^ indifferent appearance, when, in pafling on to the interior ©ne, we had the fatisfadlion to find it well-fur^ nifhed,. and enlivened by an excellent fire i the fmokc pafling through a chimney, bored to the furface of the rock^ It N i, 4 a ■♦*-<<. i/'ELS ' themrelvcSv ravan halted on the top rar-loaf ; the its fummit, ock. As wc le night, the mates Abdul- ere Ihewn tf> aa indifferent to the interior nd it well-fur^ ixccllent fire> imney, bored It «F A SEA OFFICER. *97 It may have been imagined* how a Euro- pean gentleman could thus travel in company with Mahometans and Turks, 1 (hall there- fore attempt vindicating the moral and re- ligious charad^er of the Turks, to difllpate thofc prejudices, ariling from an ignorance of their real manners. In Europe, the name of Turk is given indifcriminately, to the piratic inhabitant of Tunis, Algiers or Morocco. It is a miflake. He is an African ; and in com- parifon to him, the real Turk is a gentleman. At to the purjty of the Mahometan religion, I ihould rife millions of mufquitos, if I at* tempted to vindicate it. But let enlightened reafon confider, that they adore one undivided and omnipotent Creator. And t hough the invention of mankind may have prefented them Mahomet as a prophet, let reafon and information alfo judge, whether many other reIigioi> If! ii' '^4 ■iW^ -»--»^.,^ ._^ '» ^ iJ'\ V I ! ^ 'I |f)8 VOYAGES AND TRAV5L3 religions are not un.l:r iLnilar o'jIIgitio;is» But of this lubjecl I Ihall fay no more, aa Tuany -ire iiUerelleu in widening dilputes, t!iat a Tailor can have no interell to decide on. As to the morality of tli^ Turks, it is uni- verfally fhewn by their honefly ; for a mer- chant may leave bales of merchanvJize without a guard on the quays, or even ftreets of the cities, and fuffer no lofs. Their religion for- bidlng the ufe of wiqe, enUires goo I behavi- our; flrongly contrafted with the drunken plebeian of Europe, who thinks by impexfi- nence to attra6l the notice of his i'uperiors, ., As to the drcfs of the X'^'*M» ^" ^^^" ^"' t.erior paits of Turk;;, it is at leaft as gooc^ as can be found in France, or even any part of Great Britain. For though Europe fupplics them with quantities of woolien-clotii, yet i. h ' '. '*tl.'Ui. » l > "« ' I veLs r o'jligatIo;is« no more, as dilputes, t/iat ecidc on. ks, it is uni- ; for a mer- dize without ftreets of the religion for- goo 1 behavi- the drunken by impcf.tV uperiors, 5, in the in- eaft as gooc^ ven any part ropefupplics 'n-cloth, yet PF A SKA OFFICER. ,9^ ^1^9 P^eaiful growth of cotton, and abundance ^•i ra-.v i,!k, ..,^3 every room for the em- P^ vn^ent of their own manufa^ures that 3t Aleppo ,nd other cities, are carried on with every degree of excellence. - I fcarcc ever Iiad a greater refpe£l for any man, than for the chief of our party, Hadgi Abdullah. Mc was between fixty and Ic-' ^'enty years of age, and dignified wltli the name of Fladgi, as having (according to the rules of the Alcoran) performed the pilgrim- ^^e to Mecca ; and thr^^e times a day, with ^^ face turned towards that city, addrefle4 his God and lils prophet. He was a very rich merchant, and owned| a confiderable part of the merchandize that wag ^vith tjic caravan ; his fon Bakir, was abo;|t fixtpen I.:. ^1^ '*Ww-~" "' f aoo VOYAGES AND TRAVELS fixtcen years of ag^, and the Sheriff, Mufta pha, about t\venty-(ivc. ^> ^1 1 \ f I ! V\ Nothing could more entertain Hadgi Ab- dullah, than to inform him, in the midft o» Turky, towards what points Aleppo, Con- ftantinopic, or Smyrna lay: for the Turks are ignorant of geography, and I could eafily delineate on the ground, the re(pe(Slive fitua- (ions of thofe cities, and by the (un, point out their direction. At firft, he could not believe mc, 'till confuUing old Kanvan (our guide) he found I was right. And I fire* quently after faw many refpeftable Turks ireated with coffee, and in company with Ab» dullah, in order to fee the conjuration of liis chriiHaa xneiTmatc, On the fifth of April, the caravan fepa^ ^ajted; one part g,oing to the northward towards **^ '>^ I :^*,^.- VELS lerifF, Mufta- I Hadgt Ab- the midft of UcppO) Con- ir the Turks I could eafily pedive fitua* le fun, point ^e could not Kanvan (our And I fre* ^bte Turli;s any with Ab* mjuration of raraTan iepa- northward towards or A SEA OFFICER. 2ot towards Burfa, that lies oppofite to Conftan* tinoplc, and the other proceeding to Smyr- na, that lay to the Xveftward about twelve days jourey. Though our caravan was without camels, we frequently met numbers of thofc animals. In a caravan they arc faflcned one behind the other by pieces ©f ropes for halters^ and are generally led by an afs ; forming a contraft between this diminutive animal and the heavy and lofty camel. If the drivers of the caravan are tired, they mount the afles, and when they difmount, the afles ftill preferv^i the honuor of leading the camels, who with a ftupid air feem infenfible of who are their leaders Nattire has wifely adapted the animals of every country to its peculiar circcmllances^ and the camel by the great burthen it carriess and PncifJcN.V'/.Mi-toryDcpt PROVINCIAL- Ui^RARY VfCttmiA, B. c. , 4 * •. '■4 k I i: 'I i: \y ( /; 202 VOYAGES AND 'IRAVELS tnri tlic length of time it can fubfift witliout water, leeins formed to travcrfe the extcnlive defcrts of Africa and Afia. This abftinencc from water is ocafioned by its receiving a confiderable quantity at a time, into a kind o^ bag or gullet at the bottom of its neck, which by an operation hmilar to chewing tlic cud rifes again to thv-^ mouthy and refrelhes by it'^ moifture. The flefh of the camel is much cRcemed by the Arabs, and may afford as coi-ifortable ;i mecil as crammed-fowl, pigs wliippcd to death or Other Epicurean extravagancies of luxury. The Afiatics are extremely temperate in their diet, which is the chief reafon they are feldom jifTli^ted with the gout or other chronical diforders. On the 6th we piifleJ over a plain covered &,! the iurfacc witli ?. IVglit Icmn of faltpetre, it H.^r-: •• -\Y ELS jfift wiihoat he extcniive is abftinencc receiving a to a kind o^ neck, v^'hieh ing tlie cud, frelhes by it'^ 1 cllcemed by oi'ifortable yi ippcd to death es of luxury, erate in their ey are ieldom licr chronical OF A SEA OFFICER. 203 7ei"ei sUiin cov of ra\tpetr( it rcfembled fnow •, for as Afia furriiihes us with that article, though chiefly found in mines, this appearance was no doubt an irruption from a foil ftrongly impregnated w ith laltpetrc. I alighted from my horfe and tafted it, and was confirmed in my opinion, by Abdul- lah pointing To my flafk of gunpowder. The following day, in the midH: of a very extenfive plain we perceived an immenle build* ing, and approaching towards it by a caufeway of great length, arrived at it in the dufk of the evening, where the caravan flieltered for the night amidfl its ruins ; it wa« of marble* the principal part formed a large hall, and roofed in a peculiar manner by pieces of marble arching in an extenfive concave, and fupportcd by row^s of pillars ; in a court ftood a fmall building intended as a place of worlhip. The entrance was through ^ gate built in the C c ,i»oft "f 104 VOYAGES and TRAVELS mod fuperioor ftile of architedure ; on its top once ftood a marble effigy of a Hon, which time or barbarity had thrown down, and lay a convincing proof that this building was the work of the earlieft ages ; but for what real purpoie it was built is hard to determine, and now ferves, by its ruins, to aftoniih the few travellers who pafs this way. Continuing our route towards the weft ward, we arrived at a town two days journey from Smyrna, where Iparted and took leave of Hadgi Abdullah and his party, as he remained here to difpofe of his merchandize; and proceeding towards Smyrna with the remainder of the caravan, came once more in fight of that city, on the 27th of April 17S6, after a journey of ^^ days fmce I left Aleppo. 1 entered the city late in the evening, and palFmg the night at a khan or caravanfera, in the morning divided -•-*<.>' ■:^Sff^-^ AVELS ire; on its top a lion, which lovvn, and la/ lildhig was the for what real letenninc, and onifh the few OP A SEA OFFICER. ^^^ dividedmyTurkift garments among the h fenour TurlcQ «rT,^ k j ^ ^^' ine forth . ""'"'^^'^ ■"^' -"l '«■«- ngf«hasaEuropean.joi„edmy friend, at their houfem the Fmk-flrc«. the weft ward, journey from leave of Hadgi nalncd lierc to id proceeding aindc-T of the t of that city, r a journey of 1 entered the Ing the night the morning divided iu cha M. T t I 4'.., ^i^rrr^mi^^^^mtmmmm 206 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS CHAP. XVI, Embarks for Europe in a Dutch man af 'war.. Arrives at Toulon, '. {i M 'i Y friends at Smyrna had celebrated the carnival in a manner by no means inferiour to the feftivity of Aleppo, havin^r i "efentcd fevcral comedies at a beautiful imail theatre built at the Cafina ; alio the honourable cap- tain Waldegravc, having touched here on his travels, married the daughter of Mynheci: Van Lennap, a refpedtable Dutch merchant, who was univerfally efteemcJ and beloved. This marriage, by uniting a man of rank to a lady polTefled of every amiable accompliihpi ;" gave general fatisfaCtion. ^V' WELS XVI, h man af war^ celebrated the ans infenourto no- I >refented ] imall theatre onourable cap- led here on his Mynheer Van Inerchant, who lelovecl This ank to a lady xoinplilhni. 3^ m OF A SEA OFFICER. A Dutch 64 called the Alkmaar, 207 lay at an- c'lor in the harbour, and the Captain, in return ,7 . for the civihties every gentleman receives at Smyrna, formed many parties and balls on board, that might be called, if not Fetes cham-' petrcsy at lead Des fctes^ a la marine^ et tres agreeables. On thefe parties I formed an ac-^ quaintance with him, and on the focial footing of brother officers, he politely offered me a pafTage to Europe, where he was bound for. This correfponding with my intended route> was thankfully accepted; when bidding adieu to Smyrna, weighed anchor the 14th of May, and clearing the Gulf, doubled Cape Caraborno, and through the iflands of the Archipelago, direded our courfe for Europe. I had the fatisfadion to fmd captain Van Rickards and his officers had a politenefs and liofpitality, that the narrownefs of prejudice 't. (.. gi^ ' ?*j i ^ ^ ^jj *o8 VOYAGES AKD TRAVELS in general does not allow the Dutch. But judge of foreign banners, frequently caufesa a.finterefted traveller to look at ij, Zl h-.l. often find that Ignorance, and its oir! %mg. prej„d.ce, can turn white black, or the contrary, ' "^^ Our French pilot, Monf.eur MalTer, after a pleafant pafTaec of . ^ j . •Kht of To , ; ^ ^^'' '"■°"S^' "» in ght ot Toulon. Entering this r.o« ^horedinafn,allbayo„!hl r*. "" **/ on tlie Jarbourd hanri -herewe were to regain during the ,ua an -•Anfl.ips.orvefl-el,thatarrLa:n;E: ropean port (under the chriftian .o. \ from Turkey in F. go^^nment) ^Key m Europe or Afia, alfo from chandize, > l> 1 OF A SE\ OFFICm. 209. chandize, an infedion from that diforder: this time of reftridion is termed quarantine ^ being derived from the Spanifh word quaranta^ fignifying forty, the nr.mber of days in the quarantine. All letters fent on fhore are dipped. in vinegar and then fent by poll ; and whatever provifi ons are wanted by the ihip, are received at a building called a Lazareto, clofe to which the boat lands, and through a fmall window receives the necelTary fupply. Thefe precau- tions might in an ifland fo happily fituatcd as Great Britain, appear frivolous, till a due confideration of the fituation of the European ports in the Mediterranean, oppofite an extent of country that more or lefs is yearly ravaged by the plai^ue, points ou:the abfolute neceffity of this practice ; and as hiftory clearly {hews, that I Ml ''I 11 ■■ i- n- .1 I ^f> t^ a 10 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS that this peftilence has even reached thefe iflands, mud confirm the utiUcy of the oaa- rantine in our own ports. r ^1 Merchant ihips are ftriv^ly obliged to perform the full quarantine, but the Alkmaar having no cargo, except guns, provifions, and men, caufedour time to be reduced to thirty days : during which period the fhip lay moored in a bay, refervcd for the purpofe; where an exten« five piece ot ground adjacent is walled in, where the Ihips companies land and enjoy what- ever games or amufement they may invent. The genius of the Dutch, though in appear- ance dull, yet contains much comic invention ; this I had the opportunity to obferve, for be- fides two of the officers who play ed inimitably well on the violin, others, by their drollery and fports, kept our little parties in a continual round of laughter and amufement. The '- ^ reached ihei'e Lty of tlie oaa^ OF A SEA OFFICER. 211 iged to perform Ikmaar having :)ns, and men, to thirty days : ay moored in a /here an exten« : is walled in, and enjoy what- y may invent. )ugh in appear- mic invention ; ferve, for be- 3^ed inimitably ir drollery and lin a continual t. The The inrc iJimt Monfieur BourcC, fupplied xi3 with pic lty of wine, and made the quaran- tine agreeably glide on, till that love of change fo natural to mankind, caufcd a wilh to ex* plore the beauties of Toulon, that lay in fight about 4 miles to the northward ; and the qua- rantine being expired, it was^eccflary the offi- cers and crew Ihould undergo one operation, before we could be fuppofcd free from conta- gion and fit for fociety: this was being fmoked; and on the laft day, early in the morn- ing, the fmoking-houfe being prepared by Monfieur Bouret, the men landed in the boats in large parties, and having undergone the procefs, the officers now formed a body, and led by captain Rickards, proceeded to this oven ; the door being ffiut, we remained in a ftate of fumigation for half an hour, when Monfieur Bouret opening the door, we fallied forth like fo many red herrings , ., , Dd Th: ■ \ « '■«*."• 212 VOYAGES AND TtlWx^LS in^ t /.' '^; \^. 4^ A The Dutch have always been efteemed oirr rivals in mariiime affairs, and therefore a pecuUar manner of rowing that I obferved pradtifed by them, Ihall msntion . whenever their boats had occafion to land a large party of men,, they made ufe of paddles, which could be ufed to great advantage by thofe men who were clofe to the gunwales, an-d pr<'vented the inconvenience attending the ufe of oars, that befides inconveniencing the boat's crew,, hinders the ftowing of as many men as the boat could hold, particularly in moderate weather and fmooth water. This method might afford us much advan- tage in the difembarking of troops, whofe fuccefs frequently depends in the quicknefs of their landing. We had now liberty to vifit Toulon, and bidding farewel to captain Van Rickards and his \> ^ ;<' 4:>? .^^*a!)i...,^aWP»m efteemed oir'r id therefore a at I obferved •n . whenever ^ Jarge party >addlcs, which by thofe men and prevented 2 ufc of oars, s boat's crcw^ y men as the in moderate much advan- roops, whofe quicknefs of Toulon, and 'ickards and his ''1 OP A SEA OFriCF.R. , '>^!3 officers ,,,„dec.. and put up at one of iviaro. Toulon is one of the h.a . • JJ2/°";'P^«-'-'X one that ™ount. entrance, rrte'r* "~'^^ ^''^ Prin- n 1 ""'""^ containing a Pnn.pal part of the Fren.j. . only ^,o, ,1 K , "^''y' ''e'ng 'he "'7 good harbourin thp M»j-. contains lar.e fti„s ' ;^,^''"^"^"^^n, that -"-lesotoll ' , ''°"''^--dby -a.ds the f t7 :t"^ '-'' ''->«^"S P-dwithbricksln , "^^""^""'-y -ce. Nea. 'i/ r"^ — - "ores, and .houghVejYT:'^"-^^ i-endered„:oretrreb f '" '^"^"«' fothenotthwaHlfS ''"""^'^^^"^ of Toulon on the projeilions of ■'.■ij "^m^mx' ' "^^e^w>;n ^^^"•^fc^WWWHP^P^K^H^ill^lfsiBiii. i».'jf. s 214 VOYAGES a:-1) 1RAVI:I.!!; of the mountains, rendering tlie town, il" taken, not tenable for any length of timc.^ . The town is populous, pretty well built, and furrounded by fortifications. It lies 30 miles eall from IVlarfailles, and 450 from Paris ; in latitude 43 '^ N. longitude 6°i E. from the meridian of London, m M:i ' All travellers to the fouth of France arc ever deriroiis 10 fee the arfenal of Toulon, but an order from tlie French court to prevent the admittance of ftrangcrs, renders this difficult ; and though I had letters of intrcdudion to Mr. Jouve, the Dutch Conful, yet 1 found my intereft infufficicnt in that point, and had every reafon to expedl a difappoinm.ent to my wifli. Many Englifh noblemen, who, not being in any miiitar) cr raval capacity, thought, as travellers, they had only to fend their ccrr.j 11- : rrjcnts I I ii*ii^ I GK A SEA OFFICER. ^^i merits to Moiificur Le ComiuaiicUint, and gain admittance. Thi'. they were denied, and I relblved to attempt it by Ilratagem. A Dutch lea lieutenant who Lad been left on fhorc at Tick quarters, was frequently at the Caffc 1 fre- quented, and formln;; an intimacy, he con, fented to take mc as hi'^ brother officer into the arfenal : for at t!iii> time Holland was in alliance with France, and thereby the Dutch officers had every indulgence, and liberty to enter their ports, &c. in common with the French. *rhe following day was agreed on as the fcene of trial and operation, when at fupper at my hotel met an Englilh gentleman, who, from Paris and an excurfion to the fouth of France, was foon to embark for Italy, and mentioned his difappointment in not being able to fee the arfenal, as he left Marfaillcs for A .11 • 71 Pr I: \ \\ ■^ i» :>r 216 VOYAGES AND TllAV:^L> for that purpofc. I told him my plan, and offered to confult the lieuteaant the next morning, if it were polfiblc to take another under convoy. The propofal fomewhat ftag- gered the lieutenant, as the terrors of the Bajiile and Uttres de cacbet threatened a detec- tion. I attempted to foften the cafe, by hint- ing if we were taken into cullody, the more the merrier. This fatisfied the Dutchman, and (allying forth^ approached the gate of the arfenal, the lieutenant and I keeping a-breaft, as if brother officers, with the Englifhmaa with quite a French air, his hair been foudre ;^nd cbapcau Jous le bras^ bringing 'n the rear. Xlii* manoeuvre forced an cntra , and we happily found ourfelvcs within the gates of the arfenal, that from the abundance and arrangement of its ftores, gave ample room for invcftigation. The .VjiLS OF A SMA OFFICER 21 my plan, and lilt the next t;ike another mewhat ftag- n-rors of the tcned a detec- afe, by hint- Jy» the more itchman, and gate of the ping a-breaft, ! Englifliman been poudre ' -'n the rear. , and we he gates of dance and mple room The Tiie dj:!c« were hir^;e and excellent, particu- f.tily a new one lined with cut Itonc, lately fmilhed; but from the fmall ebb and flow of tides intheMediterranean,their docks are fubjed to a natural difadvantage the Britifli dock* are not 5 for to repair a fl\ip*s bottom, it is nccelTary, when floated into dock, that it (hould remain afterwards dry during the time of repair. This is cffeded in England by the fall of the tide, when the gates being clofely fliut, prevents the entrance of the water when the tide flows. But at Toulon the water muft be pumped out, and thoigh chain pumps are ufed for the purpoie, yet it is attended with infinite trouble. On the fulc of the arfenal towards th? harbour, is a range of ftore-lioufes, where the ftorcs of the line of battle fhips that lie moored a-breaft near them are depofited. Here were about 14 two deckers, and many of tUem were my antagonifls on the coaft of America, A m "r f i 1 I /, t ,]•■ i i I •'I %. 'Minp i I'i I 2[8 VOYAGES AND TRAVLS America. In a wet dock within the aifenat lay two 80 gun fliips quite new, prefeuts to government from the cities of Marfailles and Bourdeaax ; one was called La Commerce De Marfailles^ and the othci La Commerce De Bourdeaux. No fhips have finer bottoms than the French, as they in gcueral fail exceeding faft, but 'tis in the working them they are inferior to the Enj,iiih ; who wifely pay every attention to form their young officers to a thorough know) edge uf theory and pradtice. In theor)', the French naval officers a»'e by no means inftriorj or in courage, but have been deprived of attending to the dru;:gery of pradlice, by a ftridt regard to have their heads vvell-powJercd ; this has been one of the fun- damental rei^fons why Britain has fo frequently defeated them at fea ; and IVlonfieur Le Ccmte P'Eftain^, an admiral of a naiiv temper and quick \ ri' •ywfjf... -.-. OF A SEA OFFICER. 219 quick penetration, by lately placing the youn^ gardes de la aiarine on a fimilar footing to the Englifn midfhipman, has converted a fet of pet'Js maitres to a brave and ul'cfiil corps ; and in contributing by tueir example to give afaperiordifcipline to the French navy, has rf;n(!ered more fervlc** to his country, than the chtter of a dozen viOtones. When I mention the gardes marines being placed on a fimilar plan with the Fnglifli midfliipmen, I mean only in that part that defervcs praife ; fuch as emulation to excel in fervice and a^ivitv; but I am far from approving the abufed and fhameful returns thofe fervices are too often attended with, to a corps that not only relieves the fuperior ofEcer, but on whofe fhouldcrs lies the chief part of the weight of duty. .1 If thefe matter.", v/er^ pronerlv con'ideied ro their full extent, Britanida, iailcaa of glowing E e at ^ / ■MwUPi ■ I — IS 2 20 VOYAGES A-ND TRAVELS i^t her coi"vqiiefts, miglit blulli at the injjiftkr madeufeof in her exertions. In the adenal we vifited the fchool, where the gardes tie la inaa'ine leant the naval tadics ; it is well fitted up, aad furnifhed wkh every ufeful convenience. From thence we viewed their ropc-houfes and magazines, and found them in cxjcelknt order. The drudgery of the arfenal is carried on by <:Dnvi<3ts .chained two and two, and though probabiy highly de- fcrvingtlieir flavery^ yet the fight of Slaves ig ^ot a proper -obje^d: for free men ; for as life is fecond nature, and being by degrees accuftomed to the pradice, muft blunt the lively and generous feelings of a free and patriotic nation. Of late years, tlie pradice of convids has vbeen introduced into England, where they arc employed in deepening rivers, or iiiip roving fortifications - .*iA „.* •*• OF A SEA OFFICER. zzi fbrtilicAtions j but the n itlon mu-fl: be wretch- edly depraved or involved, thut cannot aftbrd ^o pay the honeft part of the eommunity, who frequently want employ iiieiit and bread ' and fending, thofc convicts to- Botaj*y-bay, their induftry and reformatton inigftt form a fettlennent, iifeful at prefent, and to future periods. But the feelingsof the Frcnchytliough. liberal and great, have beeri kept umder by the faddle of tyranny ; and though polite ge- neroTity to one of their kings was the caufe of forming a goverament, whereia baftilest* kttres-de cachet, and ihjuftice had tEeir day ^ yet every excefs^ even in politics, caufes a fcrnrentatioR, whereby it is purified to its; original ftat&. V This ha-s been found a truifm La regard to Ireland, where the venal hirelings of Machia- vcliaii politics, have found there is refervcd a degree ytiifm0mimm m i f^**« t<' r ' « l! ' i 422 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS a degree of pliability in the breads of a brave and loyal people ; but if tried to too great a height, rifes with an indignant fcorn, and bids defiance to oppreflion^ The lieutenant, the Englifli traveller, and myfelf, having fufficiently gratified our curl- oCity, returned to our hotel, when good wine and an excellent dinner, helped to digeft our obfervations ; when foon after, theEnglifh gentleman failed for Nice. H I ,) s The gallantry of tlie French has always been remarkable, ii) war, as well as in les affc'irts d^ Amour. Vox obferving a pretty brunette in waiting at my hotel, I miade thofe advances €?i pajfant that it was impoflible not ]to have made j and from the frowns I met with, imagined I was treated w.th difdain ; >vhen in the middle of the night, was agreea- bly ^V^ ^ A 'Si>^^mm>iam^'^ OF A SEA OFFICER. 223 Hy furprized, to find my (lumber interrupted by a pretty figure, en Jupe^ whc, in order to confijlt on my intended journey to Hiercs the next day, entroit dans le lit. M'l The cabinet fecrets of monfieur Necker, Mr. Pitt, or count Florida Blanca, could not more agreeably have been carried on, than the plan of my excurfion : and in the morning, bid- ding f'lrewel to my amiable counfellor, fet off towards Heires, that lies to the eaftuard near eleven miles from Toulon. The road lay through a delightful country, producing corn, wine, and olives. To the north, the moun* tains rofe to a confiderable height, and re- fledling the rays of the fun, made the heat very great. Arriving at the town of Hieres, found a good hotel, and in the manner of a My lord 4ngloisy ordered dinner ; but I found 1 was not the firfl My lord Anglois, that had been i i \ r- r" \ ^^ym %:ii ^i ! ZZ4 VOYAGES awd TRAVFXS- been here, as the windcws were adorneJ uiVii many brilhant nanries^ that were hk as mc*- numents of th^ir fuperior fkill m^ wrkiiK',, or t>o Ihew the world what idle time they had^ 'i *i r" P w The towi* is built on- the fide of » hUF^ and' /urrounded with a wall^, having formerly been> a place of ftrength^ and; at the time of the erufadesr ferved as^ a place of embarkations to the pilgrims ©r troops bound to the Holy- Iknd. The harbour in thofe dk>ySy was near t^he towHy but i* now choaked upv the fcsi lia^ving retired near a mife r leaving the inter- mediate fpaccr where gai^dens are richly culti- vated, and alkiiod covered witb orange trees 5. fome of thefc or^ige gardens r as I was i re- formed fr«nft good authority, bringin-j in & yearly income of near a tbouiaad pounds- ^erlii3g^ Tue '■*<****'*«*S^^ mrn^nr 'e adorn e J u iVii ?re hk as luo*- m wrkia{<, or ime they had, of a hiJi; and' formerly been> 5 time of the embarkation! to the Holy- ^ysy, was Dear ' up,, the few flg the intcr- ' nchly eulti- orange trees j IS I vva« irv ingin^ in & aqd pounds. OB A SEA OFFICER. ,j^ The windows of , he hotel t^verfooked theft grounds, and commanded an ex.erf.ve view 'Of the Mediterranean, with the fmalj iflandc ofH^ere.. Some i :-e„ch officers happening to arrive, contributed, by enlivening our eu- tertamment. lo encreafe the fa.is&fl.on wa «per,enced from enchanting profpefls. and an u.c/ou.'ed Ay. When having pafled an ■agreeable aiternoon, with agreeable coa>panv. -d excellent w.n.. «tur.ed at the c Je ^ IX """'^'^ '^°"'-' -'d found m, ratis. .^^uencrea.db, the welcome or^. a.. CHAP. > • iMum^'atmim)^ I }i' f ti6 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS CHAP. XVII. r*^ J I *., Leaves I'otilofty and viftts Marfdlles, X I M E feparates even mountains ; therefore no wonder I fhouM leave Toulon, and hiring a voiture, fet off on the 15th of July for Marfeilles. This carriage fomevvhat refem- bles a chaife, and in the polite fafhion of the Irifli noddies, the driver fits on a ftool in front, extremely convenient in calm weather for railing breezes in pulfs, that to fome olfac- tory nerves might be excct-ini^ly refrcfh- ing. I never cowlJ think fo, but being unpro. vided with a pha;:on, ani accuftomed to blafts ■"*- 1»* , tit '■!.*»* OF A SEA OFFICER. j^-, blalh of winJ, weighed anchor ui the Voi- ture. The driver, (ike mod Frenchmen, was finart and po ite ; and making his advances to converfation n. a moft genteel wanner, fo far accompli (heJ his purpof., as to begin a rela- t.on of thofe calamitous robberies and mur- ders that had taken place in the forefls we pafTed through. As to the fear of being rob- bed, my finances bid defiance to the attempt ; and having at that time, no pe„cha„t "for be- ing murdered, found myfelf very happy ,vhen I arrived at the hall-way houfe, between Tou- lon and Marfeilles: the diftance is alK>ut thirty miles, the road for the moft part very good, leadmg through a romantic country, whch the chief part of Provence beautifully pre- fents. ' ^ A I frequently wifhed to but it is here a liquor unk meet fome good al«-, nown; being tfld hy "sKiBk-no*!!*"-' \' ■■ \ i mi 128 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS by a Frenchman, Mo;//icur Le Bon Vluy cO. la lUcrc de not re Piiys, (o I found ; and tliough excccdingi}' cheap, the French are remarkable^ for their fobricty. In the evening I continued my journey, and arriving at Marfeillcs, rattled through the ftreets with a noife not unworthy a greater traveller. My Voiture flopped at an Hotel, where I found belter entertainment than in a Turkifh caravanlera. The following day, I wa-ed on Mr. Chefler, the Englilh conful, and found he obligingly paid every attention to the letters I had received from my worthy friends, MefT. Lee. I had the pleafure of meeting at his houfewith a lieutenant Watfon, of the navy, who then commanded a large merchant-fliip at Marfeilles ; and as he had ferved during the war in America, in the fame fleet I belonged to, we formed an ac- quaintance ; ■V,, ^ mi^ma m' OF A SEA OFFICER. 229 qualiitaiicc; and inrpcdled the fituaiion and" buildings of this great commercial cit)'. / Marfeilles has for many centuries been a place of importance, and confiderablc trade, having a well Hieltered Iiarbour, forming an oblong fquare, with a narrow entrance, that can be fecured by a chain thrown acrofs, and by a battery built at one fide on a hill. Though having fulficicnt depth of water for merchant fhips, yet no large men of war can enter the harbour, and renders Marfeilles entirely a commercial city, from whence the natural pro dudtion of Provence, confiding of fruits, filk, wine, oil, olives, &c. are exported, bcfides the manufactures that fupply their Weft India iflands, and many parts of the Levant. This throws immenfe wealth to the inhabitants > and is vifible by the extenfive improvements of ^ f « ,» I V a I • 230 VOYAGES AND TRAVEL >; of the city, and the nuiucrjus villas that arc interfperfed in the adjacent country. The inhabitants are a gay and lively people, and on feftivals appear very well dreflfcd ; for though the Englifh can boaft of good linen and good cloth, yet the French love a parade and brilliancy of drefs, that is far from lofing its efFed. The principal ftreet of Marfcilles is in the form of a mall, of great length, and planted on each fide with rows of trees. The princi* pal coffce-houfes are here, and in the warmcft weather you can procure the luxuries of ice irreams. Marfeilles can boaft an excellent theatre, and in its tout enfemhle forms a very gay and flourifhing city. As ^4KM» S » -- oi' A SEA OFFICER. 23» As there wa« no ihip to fail Ibon for Eng- land, and on reafons i'omcwhat limilar to the inimitable Sterne's viliting France, I refolvcd to pafs through a kingdom remarkable for the luxuriance of its full and a delightful climatci and whofe natives have for centuries been in their cuftoms imitated by the chief part of Europe. Sterne juftly divides travellers into feveral clafles, I forget his rank and file, but (hall include them under three denominations. Fir/If The plodding fcientific traveller, who by his remarks gives the lye to the oblervations of former travellers. i Secondly, The phofphorical traveller, fuch as Sterne ; who crying " VivCy la joia Jidon la tri/iejfa^' hops from town to town, and difmounting / > ¥^ ' -,»,„,#^. VOYACKS AND TKAVia.S difmountini; on the road, throws one ISrmt in one ditch, and the other in the next, joins and capers in the dance. T/j/rdlj. The per igiiuai 'kail, who from fonrjc motive has occahon to pais through many icciies, and troubles you with his nonl'enrex ' ti y In this Fafl: clafs I rank myfelf, and (halt acccrdiagly proceed. Having remained a fortnight at Marfeilles, I fct ofF for Lyons in Si coach and four ; this was no other than the llage coach, and by admitting a diverfity of travellers^ coutributed entertainment by the v;u:iety. One. of them was a Maltefc meicham wlio fpoke good Trench, and was a very diverting companion ; tv.o others were returning from Spain towards Switzetland', and tl\e fourth was a French gentleman, with the woR remarkable note I had ever fecn. Sieriic h ^T- ■^^' 'H V ' il A< \ I A^ 240 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS condition, confidcring how many ages it has been creded ; it is covered wiili fculpturc, that time lecms to have refnedted, and is at once a monument of the abilities and courage o^ the Romans. The following morning we proceeded on our journey towards Lyons, and as one ob- jcdt of a perigrinarian is to do juftice to the country he pafles through, I cannot help re- marking, that with excellent roads and an en- chanting country, we every where met with good entertainment, good beds, and a polite attention. Englifh carriages, horfes, and harnefs, are in general fuperior to thefe of Trance, but in many other refpeds I think France has the advantage, for the bills are here more mode- rate, and though a roafted firloin fmnakwg hot on or A SEA OFFICER. 241 on tb^ t.6h i, f,,,,^|^ f^^^^ .^ p^^^^^^ .^ .^ not thence to be concluded tbey have no beef; for here is abuadance <.f ^vcry fort of provi^ fions, only feryed up, felon rtfaje dn pays. Some travellers pretend they Ibarccly could fleep in France on account of bugs, but thefe were probably only buirbears, or have in a great degree been fince banifhtd the country, as Saint Patrick expelled venemous creatures' from Ireland, for I really muft confefs I fcarccly ever met thefe difturbers of rcpofe. Two days after our departure from Orange, having pafTed through Vienne, we once more came in fight of the Rhone, with its banks gradually rifing, covered with villas, and coim- tiy refidences. To the northward we perceived llie c\\) oi Lyons, with the mountains of Switz.^rland to the 'i:1 < .) I , / ;i \f )i ) M 144 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS the eaftvvard. Having crofTed the Rhon? over a good bridge, entered tlie city of Lyons. This city is next in importance to Paris, be, ing large and well built, has feveral handibme Squares, and carries on an extenfive trade in its manufadlures of filk, alfo gold j:nd filver fluffs, that are efteemed throughout Europe i but the revocation of the edidl of Nantes, by perfecuting the proteftants, confiderably re- duced the number of looms, that were before reckoned to amount to eighteen thoufand ; and alfo gave rife to the eftablifhment of our Eng- lifh filk manufadVorie?. Lyons is fituated in the centre of Europe, on the confluence of the river Saone with the Rhone, and fuppofed to contain two hundred thoufand inhabitants, and fix thoufand houfcs, that are in general lofty and well built. In company with the knig' t of Malta, I vifited the :> >».» ^n i)F A SF.A OFFIC^KR. 24.^ th:jcathc..lr:il, tfuii is ;i ! . j^. fiiuGo'hic (uiilj- ing, havii)^^ :i clujk iiie^ni^^'illv co iti, vcd. From thence we viewc 1 ilu ailcnal, whicli flands near the Soanc j here were ai.. is lo up- wards of eighty ihrajfand .-ncii, it excellent order, and well arranired. 'I'hc town-houle is a (uperh buildinr/;, formin i; one fide of a beautiful fijuare, where are ibtiie good build- ings of Hone; but many of thcni have their windows of oiled paper inlteaJ of glafs. This probably proceeds from its giving a more fleady light, iiecelFary for the mdnuiaclurc?. Having gratified our curiollty in this city, the knight and I engaged places in one o! :bc Diligences pur Eau that afcend the ri\e: .Scmh^ as far as Challons, on the road to Paris : .-tfe boats are very convenient a:id wc'' fii'-Tup, having a deck fimilar to an awnm^s with (he H h ipace i; 'A A } I • ')! • I \ 244 VOYAGES A.s'D TRAVELS fpacc underneath dividccj into cabins, to It-- paratc the company, uho are clafTed accord ing to their fare. We left Lyons on the ft9th cf Auguft, early in the mornings and proceeded up the river, being drawn by four horfes. Our com- vany confided of two Abl)cs, a gentleman troubled with the gout, and fome ladies, who, by the agrecablenefs of their fociety, confider- ably added to the pleafure of the route, J.I }C^' 'r \ I obferved, the French are in general fond of reading, and though we may boaft of men of deeper knowledge, yet, the French are moftly better informed of the world and it9 cuftoais> and their fprightly inventive fa- culties give birth to the voluminous produdli- ons France has been remarkable for, and if truths are embelliihed by Come pleafant falf- bood "Vs ' .h <»M • 1 OF A SEA OVFICER. H5 liooJ, to thcT!, Cyi k meme cbofe^ provideii they ure a^,rccal)Iy relateJ. The following anecdote may ferve to profc this foible, even among their learned writers. *' The late Abbe Velly, who was employed *' in reviling the Hiftory of PVance, read, with ** aOonilhrnent, in a work, entitled, Memoirs ** explanatory to Univerfal Hiftory ; that the ** gentlemen who compofed the court ot St. ** Louis, and accomp.inied him on the expc- *• dition to the Holy-land j on their arrival ** in Palcftiiie, nothing fo particularly engaged '' their attention as to give a magnificent *' ball, to which, all the ladies of the country ** were invited. The Abbe Velly had not ** read or met with this trait of gallantry in " any of the memoirs of thofe days. And ** tl\e celebrated hiftorians, le fieur de Join- " villc, Hugucs do Berla, and Matthew Paris, ** had not fald a word concerning it, nor in- .*■ •1 s • i r S J-, 1^1 N'i' u ' \ h % . 246 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ' clccd, any other ]iii\(;r":iu. The Al;bc circ- " i'liUy read over all tlieir '.voiks, avid cxa- *' mine J the maiuifcripts of all the Ubrar'ei> " uithui reach. At length he wrote to the '■' autlior, and bc«\ged he would point '.ut ihc " iViu'ee < F ini'oiniatio;), where he could have *' iT.et witli ihc recital oi this famous ball the *' Frciich cavaliers had given to the beautiful " Aryrianj.'' The author returned this anfvvcr : " You will iind it no whcie before- " mentioned ; but it appeared an ad ion fo *' conformable to the crav and r;allant fpirit " of the I'Vcnc'-. i^alion, lor the cavaliers to " treat the lad ■.::, with a ball, immediately on ." their arrival, fin t / /.kivl' inhcn itJlrgraN/i'd^ ** and IV rote i! dew// ^is a ccrliii?/ Jlitl,''^ % I'p. * So much for the irr agination of French au- |1\ors; and as a countryman of theiis obfervcd, he •vf OF A SEA OFFICER. 247 he made not the leall tlouht, but iivj'\y cii- tertahihig lullorieii were lor tlie chief part in- debted to thLlc ingenious invcntioriP. And thougli there v.-as not tlic lead foundation to believe tliis Syrian ball was given, yet the Frenelijin general, voidd be Witcv pkaied to lee their hiRorv enlivened wiili a fallhood of fo geiueel a coinpler.Ic.-n. Our boat Hopped U) dine, wh'.re v.-c found good cntertiunnicnt :.t a hotel in a hnall village in l>re!Te, a dillrid Ivint^ between tb.o Soane aiul Rlione to the fouth-wcll of Swit/erhuid. In the afternoon \vc embarked, and towards nitrlit arrived at t!'c town of Macon, fiLiiated to the wcftward and on the banks cS tlie Soane. Here are fevcral excellent walks, where wc lliolled 'till fupper-tivne, and rctin*ning to our hotel, recruited ouifelves with good cheer, to cnal)le . .j3*'*^*« 248 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS enable us to pafs the night with more comfort in the boat, and then re-embarkin^'; continued our journey during the night. The next evening we arrived at Challons, that lies 76 French leagues to the fouth-eaft from Paris, and 24 from Lyons. Taking coach, we palFed thro* Burgundy and found a delightful country, a clear fky and lively inhabitants, who were frequently formed into parties, and to the tunc of a pipe or violin, Drove care from their f'jdety. It iii liighl) entertaining to fee the various inventions thefe happy people find out to amufe themfelvcs ; when tired they lit down on the grafs, and regale with their cold collati- ons in the moft perfect tranquillity 'till thedulk of the evening, then retire home, linging, dancing, and capering. CHAP. OF A SEA OFFICER. 349 CHAR xvin. 1/jf Author finds himfilf in Paris, His oh/en vations en a few circiimfiances. M A FTE R three days pleafant journey, wc arrived at the city of Paris, and taking leave of the knight, who purfued his journey, I put up at the hotel D*AngUterre, Rus Mont Martre. Here were fevcral Sv^rifs gentlemen, befides EngUfti travellers, where finding a focicty that was far from being cxpenfive, gave us opportunities to obfervc the city, as if lodged in •'A\ 2,-0 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS in tlvj more brilliant liotcls : for I am i'lr from clncr of o\:)inion, tiKit tlv:,' inoic mn'rnlliccn 'rt tly yo .1 tiuvc L th if( wn 11 acciuirc ic more miormation a traveller in fome few cafcf, tliis may b^ true ; but to judge of men and manners, I prefer tlte fitiiation of mediocrity ; for a pedellrlaii that travels on foot aerofs a eountry, caneertainly gi\'e a truer account of it than a trdveiler cooped up in a elofe carriage, who to complcAt Ills obfervations has rccourfe to the rem: rv> of au th< )rs. '7(U)n h'. i»- )hahl)' wort II 'hccfcc!cs\ bait let every traveller be indei'/endet.t enOU[''h to fee with hi fr s own eye form opinions irom his ov;n oblervalions h obn an \ t; A> n I here fortunately beci-.me acquainted with a IVlr. CJicy, a Yorklhirc gentleman, an officer m the lAlh re^-mcnt cf foot: he had refided • I..' ' fomc time :i! Paris, and ])erfc v:\ly r.nderdood French OF A SEA OFFICER. 25« French, whereby wc were as much at home, (;us the fayhig is) as in our own country. Paris 13 not fo large as London, but has the rupcriorlty of exhibiting its beauties to greater advantage from the clearncl s of its atmofphere. A defcription of the particular beauties and curiofities of this gay and extenfive capital, has fo frequently been given by the mod accu- rate authors, that a repetition mud appear intrufive tautology; butin juftice to the French mud add, that one of our excurfions was to view the hofphal dcs invalides^ built by Louis the 14th, to receive fuperanuated foldiers. This building is at a fmall diftance from tlic city, on the fouth banks of the Seine, and in its fize and exteriour appearance, fiocs honour to the charitable defign of iti> inftitution. On entering the gates we were accofted hj the major oa g lard, who poUtcly offered to accompany u3 to ilicw the apartments and interior conveniences of the hofpital. As he 1 i fpoke I f I f I { 252 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS flpokc very good Englifli, he informed us Kc was a native of England, but by the fluauation of Britifli politics, had rifcn to a confiderablc rank in the French fervice. It was before dinner, and in fliewing us tlie kitchens, we obferved fevcral Ipits loaded with good beef, when the major obferved " gentle- mctt, this is for the dinner of the invalids, and muft convince you of the illibcrality of fuppo- fing we are fed with frogs " The hall where the veterans afFembled to dinner was ^xtenfivc, well furniflied, and adorned with paijitings re- prefentingthe battles of France. Theh- bed- rooms were in ncatnefs and lize fuflicient to attrad the particular notice of Englillimcn, and thereby to inftil a belief, that if the French have the ambition to attempt conqucfts, they have alfo the gratitude to reward their men. The chapel of this holpital is remarkably magnificicnt, particularly the dome. Here they aircmble to adore their Creator, and frequently have the fatisfadion to fee their King kneeling and joining in the worfliip. I . Mentioning .-^-j'- r,-**- OF A si A OFFICER. 253 Mentioning their invalixl foldiers, it may not be improper to remark, that the charadler of a foldier in France is more refpedted than the foldier in England. This proceeds from a different policy in their government, and from the different manner of cnlifting ; for if a foldier cnlifts in France, he is not a military flavc for life, but ferves only a certain number of years, in a fimilar method to the keeping up a militia. Oil this account moft of their pcafants have been foldiers, and in their old age, take a pleafure in boafling they bave/erved their King, In England, the commercial and narrow fpeculation of the day denies even a comforta- ble fupport, to the very men that are necejfary for its defence ; though the price of provifions and every article encreafes, the pay of the foldier or failor receives little or no addition \ and as a crown to his misfortune, when cn» ifted^ he tvXa^spcrfeculafeculorim. /' fl I am i « «54 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS 1 am far from hinting that this treatment IS corrcfponding to the generous character of Britons : but one half of the world not knov, - ing how the other half arc ufed, is one rcafon that prevents redrefs ; and the burthen of /z/; immoderate national debty the other. I glory in the profperity of my country, but thofe times are lavillily depraved, and tlat man a cowai4, vvho conceals fentiments that mny ci- thcr remedy or point out abufe. I) I The enthufiafm of an Engliftiman on his firft arrival in France, is to aftonifh the na- tives by the brilliancy of his fuite, or to make his imaginary fuperiority be ccnlpicuous in the eccentricity of his adions. The fcene I happened to be prefent at, in a frolic, called to mind this remark : For fome Englilh and Irifli gentlemen having dined fociably toge- ther, and in company with fome French offi- cers, embraced the opportunity of facrificlng to Bacchus, with burgundy and champaignc. One of the French officers informed the com- pany, his uncle the admiral gave a ball that evening •, OF A SEA OFFICER. «55 evening ; and it was refolved to decamp, and beat up the admiral's quarters. On the arri- val of this Bacchanalian troop at his hotel, the ball was almofl over; when feveral of the company coming away in all the elegance of drefs, were intercepted by our troop, and the gentlemen in receiving our compliment*, handed from one to another, to the total de- rangement of their fvvords and apparel. One of the Engliflimen, more infpired than the reft, faid, as he had fallied forth, he was re- folved to Ihew t\\c{c frog-enters what Britom could do. And as the coaches rattled along the ftreet, attempted by catching hold of the fpokes of the wheel to ftop them. This fail- ing of luccefs, he told an Irifh gentleman, that he certainly would convince them Bri- tons were invulnerable^ as he would throw himfelf under a coach, and let the wheels pafs over him. The Irifhman replied, he ne- ver knew the adions of his countrymen to be inferior to any nation in the world, and would willingly follow the example. Un- luckily at this moment, a coach rattling by, they k f >"■ fi «V«\ -*tif T.Bs^MWf », 2j6 VOYAGES AND TRAVFXS threw themfelves acroCs the flrect, and the wheels pafling over, broke the leg of the Englifhman, and bruifcii the knee of thelri(h gentleman. The more fobcr part of the company put the unfortutiate fuffercrs into carriages, who, to coropleat the adventure, cried out, *' Put •* us together, my boys, in the fainc carriage, *• for fuch patriotic heroes ought never to be " feparated." Their wifh was complied with, and in a triumph furpafllng Alexander's, were conveyed to their hotel, amidft an innume- rable and aflonilhed multitude. The Baftife at this time was Handing, and as it has fioce met with its defer ved fate, thereby difarms the pen of criticilm; yet leaves an example, tbat thtfc political Hydra s are not cotitmenccd bytbe laying ff tbcjirjijlenc^ but are begun lubert apathy and inattention^ Jilcntly connive at the undermining of Magna Cbarta, The firft ftone of an Englifh baftilc was never ferioufly laid, but it was attempted h OP A SEA OFFfCER. *57 by the violation of liberty on the per/on tf Mr, iVilkes, My finances being nearly exhauded, and not having draughts on any of the Paris bankers, who, for what 1 know, may be very worthy and obliging men : I therefore depo- fited my remaining louis d*ors for a place la the conveyance to London. My friend lieu- tenant Grey, hearing of my intended depar- lure, entered my room, and obligingly offered to lend me any fum. I thanked him for his kind ofll'r, and told him as 1 had taken my place, ii was neceffary I fhould leave Parie, when taking leave, fct off the middle of Sep- tember in I he coach for Calais, being furnilhed with a paifport. Paffmg through Picardy,by way of Chantilly, Beauvais, Amiens and Ab- beville, on the fccond evening arrived at Boulogne Sur Mer; where there being no |xicket-boat ready to crof^, we remained the fjight at a good hotel, finding excellent cheer and agreeable company. A rich h IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4o Zi 1.0 If "^ I I.I 2.5 so SB* " IT -.2 IL25 i 1.4 III 1.6 'A VV/ <^ .*.v '^ '^' / «fm \°i> ;> V x^ PhotDgreiDhic Sciences Corpomlion 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716)872-4503 ■j^ 258 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS A rich Jew and his Chere Jmiey had accom- panied the coach from Paris, and not being infenfible of her chirm?, my attentiors were baffled by the vigilance of the Hebrew, until the fpacioufnefs of our hotel gave a furthtr r:ope to invention ; and observing that Moles had depofited his portmanteau in a fmall room, which he frequently vifited, I gained over the waiter, who en pajfent^ during one of thefe vi- lits, locked him up\ and during his confine- ment, I mad;^ an agreeable excurfion to view ' ^he citadel, in company with his Dulcinea. The enraged Jew was foon after releafed, and apparently appeafcd by the apologies of the waiter, who declared his innocence in not knowing he was in the room, and which be- ing at a diftance, prevented his being heard. * .» .-_,„.. OF A SEA OFFICER. ^61 Toned by fome invalids, who fcrve as a fuf- hcieiu protedlion to a fpot that nature, by in- numerable rocks, has rendered almoll inaccef- ^;ble. At a (hort diflance to the weftwarj, is tne .Hand of Saint Agnes, on which an ex^ cellfnt light-houfe is built; from this ifland, towards the fouthwell, extend ranges of rocks ^^ far as the eye can reach, that every year prove fatal to many vefTels ; here fir Clou- deiley Shovel and four line of battle fhips were totally loll on their return from the Mediter- ranean, in the year 1702, on the night of the azdofOaober. r From thefe iflands we fleered to the north- ward with a frelh gale, and having entered the Irifh channel, fhaped our courfe along the banks that extend from Wexford to the bay of Dublin. The 20th of Odober, in the mid- dle of the night, it blew flrong, when the failors fuddenly cryed out, we were near the land ; this was adlually the cafe, and feeing ' the lights on M'icklow-hcad, we perceived the tide had carried tf e (hip wiihin the banks. The 'I / 3' 264 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS The captain with great prefence of mind, diredling the proper couiTe to be fleered, we thereby fortunately got fafc out into the chan nel, pafling between two fand-banks, calleu the India-bank, and CodUng-ridge; the fol Jowing day we fortunately gained the bay ol Dublin, and anchored ip the harbour. kV :*) The fpring of the year 1787, I met an old fhipmate with whom I had ferved the latter part of the war in the Weft Indies. Being on the eve of departure for London, to pur- chafe a yachi for Dudly Loftus, Efq; of Killyon, I was invited to join the party. On our arrival in London, we vilited the dock?, and foon found a vefTe! that anlvyered the puf- pofe. She was a brig of about one hundred and thirty tons burthen, and as the chief part of her equipment was eniruded to me, I was appointed captain, and foon converted her into a I]iip carrying eight carric]ge guns, with rabins, 6cc. elegantly fitted up. "ii Th; OF A SEA OFFICER. 26 J Tfie Mercury being ready for Tea, we weighed anchor from the Thames, and hav- ing doubled the North Foreland, anchored ,11 the Downs the latter end of June. As all vefTcIs (excepting colliers) are accuftomed to take pilots in failinT up or down the Thames, 1 had the ritisfadion to have a Mr. Fletcher for our pilot, a man much efteenied by the Irilh captains. On his departure r .^"' charge ot the i|>jp irom the Downs^ and pro- ceeded down the Englifh channel. ' The 1 2th of July, being off the Ifle of Wight, it began to look black to the weftward^ and the wind fhjfting more arhCfid, I bore away for Spithead, w^here we were fcarcely arrived, when it blew a gale of wind from the W. N. W. this continued near a fortnight ■^hen weighing anchor, fleered dow^n channel. Mr. Keily, a lieutenant pf marines, war Jcindly received on board by Mr. Loftus, a. a paflenger to Dublin, and being an acquaiii- .|ancc of my old {hipmate, v\dio In the Iri{ . mctrGpor.. i t' ^ ^v 4 264 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS metropolis was univcrlally known hy tlic name the boU Cjpta'i/t \ they together tbnned an undermining plot to fupplant nie in the efteeni of Mr. Loftns, vvhofe friend Ihip I had always endeavoured to deferve hy im attention to his Ihip and property. There lay the caufe of contention ; for attention to protect the pro- Derty of a young man, is an unpardonahlc fault in tne ^y^., „i' .1.., ,,,^p,-;„,/,pU,| 'fhi* cliief mate, (one Lewis) I had, on a recom- mendation, taken from a ihirving condition, and fmding him to he a prefuming and igno- rant fellow, I therefore kept him at a proper diftance ; when during a iine night, having doubled the land's end, and fteering up the Irifh channel, I was accofted by Mr. Keily, who faid he wiilied in the moil friendly man- ner to advife a more gentle behaviour to the mate, as he was beloved l>y the men. I thanked hira for his information, which I d ned lie, aiid feeing mod :new to be of my men 0:1 the quarter-dock, afked them if tliJ mate WIS their particiil u* favourite, or if iuy conda-.l' dllpleafcd them. One Brown> ati I \ OF A sl:a orMci':R. ^-^>s cin Kiiglilhinan, at.fwcrliig for the icll, de- clared, he never could liopc for better ufage tlum he li;ul received under my command, aitd ^>8 for the mate, he was the greated rafeal they Jiad ever met with. I knev^ this would liave been their anfvvcr ^.ul turning to Kcily, refuelled, whenever he prcfumed to give me advice, that it fliould be on a better foundation. This was a broad- ^de to the confederacy, and approaching i^ubhn, had occafion to mention to Keily fome well known anecdotes, that did not mucfi refled to his honour or honefty; and I con- firmed my information by an aflurance, that I fhould kick him wherever he could be met With. On my arrival in DuMin, I gave up thr command of the flup, „ot Ooofmg to fe Jarate a connea,on that probaI,ly i„ the end did no, prove y«,/. n^/van/ajreous to Mr. Loftus; and the Mercury after one cruize was fent to London to be fold. Tlic 2(iG VOYAGES AND TRAVELS 'I'hc unfcttlcd ftate of Holland at this lime occalioned the equipment of a confiderable ar- mament, in the latter part of the year 1787, and returning to Lo:idon, I joined the CololFus 74, commanded^ by captain Hugh Clohcry Chriflian ; flie was a new fhip, and lay at Long Reach in the river Thames, m From a Captain, I was now mctamorphofed once more to a midfliipman, hoping if hofti- lities commenced, to receive that promotion I looked up to as my rlglit. Captain Chrlftian has ever ])ecn dlftinsiuifhed as a brave and ex- pcrienced ofhccr, and while on the coaft of America, the followinrr beautiful lines were wrote by a lady on the back of an introduc- tion for a young gentleman to prcfent to him : *' Go v,>ui:!i bolov'd, wirh g 'ncroiis ardour prov?, *' 7'he Iju's of honour, and thy country's love ; *' Warm'd with that 7cal mny cvo? v nftion glou-, ♦* Friend to her fri^^nd, v)n(tik?[ive lo her fo: ; *' Learn rhe brrive art which jjuirdi. her chalkv Jlnr?, *' And oain the r..ia-' '.hat ^'ciuon d:.! ';;'.ror?. The OF A 5itV OI'FICER, 2lj; lis lime able ar- - 1787* r.lobcry * lav at rphofcd f hofti- motion hrlftian nd ex- oail of were trodiic- ) hi in : Tlic inha])ltams of the cock-pit I found confilU'd of a motley crew, fome young, others old, a few gentlemen, and many black guards ; however it was necefliiry to undergo this fcene of purgatory, as it might open to that preferment I had fome right to expeilc from my former lervice. Having compleated our fhip's company of 600 men, the ColofTus proceeded to the Downs and thence to Sphhead, where we compleated a fleet of 18 fliil of the line* The hopes of promotion had drawn togc.: ther many of the mifirtimatc midjlolpmen, but as the attention of the fublimer optics of go- vernment are dlreded to greater objedls, it i'*. no wonder they were not obfervcd ; and the affairs of Holland being fettled to the fatisfac- tion of Great Britain, the fliips were ordered to remain as guard-fliips in their refpcaive ports. The T. 1 Ar ffl'^^tH .tu fl —T * Ml zGS VOYAGES and TRAVELS At tliis time I found lieutenant Kcily was then at Portfrnouth, I accordingly waited on him, and iiliiing from the mieiWoom, llufter- td with wine, he told me he guelfed the meaning of my vilit, and was ready to grant me any fatisfa«Slion. 1 informed him this was all I wanted, and foon after fent him a chal- lenge, mentioning the time and place. He requefted an interview, where he made every conceflion, by explainmg away thofe circum- ftances tliat had attracted my attention. On a late vifit to Portfmouth, I found he had been expelled the corps, and fells fnuff by retail in fome lane of the metropolis. i remained on board as midfhipman from September 1777, 'till March 1 78S, and having more than compleated my midfhipman' s time, and by the final arrangement of peace, feeing all doors of promotion fhut, had no reafon or inclination to learn the poike accomplijhments of aguard-P'ifs cockpit \ where divided into par- ties, are too frequently kept up thofe nati- onal animofities that ftill fubfift under the ban- ner >■' n I f OF A SEA OraCER. £69 ner of ignorance ; and alfo the tio rank^ that ^*^' ■»■' - •" ' ■'■ w -i70 VOYAGES AND travel::; C H A P. XX. J J I the interval of peace the Author turns philofopher^ and retires to Wales, X A M I L I E S, like flates, arc fubjed to re- volutions, and mine having in feme degre^e experienced the truth of this remark, and teing unemployed by the inadivity of peace, or in the merchants (ervice, relolved to crofs the channel into Wales, and to enjoy the oiium cum dignitate of independence, on an income not exceeding that of a Welfli curacy. i therefore repaired to the marine hotel, and ill company with a brother officer enjoyed a few bottles of wine, that contributed to fcoth tl.c idea of leaving Ireland. I feoni OF A SEA OITICER. 271 r turns £t to re* e degrcic ,rk, and dF peace, \ to crofs oy the , on an \ curacy, otel, and njoyed a to Iboth 1 feoil n I loon after arrived in Anglefea, and in a Ilrange country was obliged to have recourfc to tiat philoiophy, which in teaching patience, enables one by degrees to form an opinion of the people and their manners; and accidentally meeting an Irilli lieutenant of marines, (who after many years fervice during the laft war, had relided here for fome time, on the eiiot'' motis income uf thirty pounds per lumum) I not only received much entertainment from the pleafure of his acquaintance, but feveral local hints that were the refult of experience* He did not keep his phseton or hunters, but enjoyed that refpe ' M ' ' ' ,1 Mt i j i wwHWBpwiw 272 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS command of the Du Guay Trouin floop of war, of fixteen guns, had been entrufted ahnoft en- tirely to him during war, yet not being con- firmed in his commiflion as lieutenant, he broke his heart, and thus evaded the farther pcrfecution of avaricious and unnccejfary ingra- titude. Where an individual, as myfelf, knows many fimilar examples, how many hundred dozen muft appear through the nation, who have thus fallen vidlims to negledl and a policy that honour cannot countenance ; and if the com- mencement of a war is ufhercd in, •with;7/,V Britannia^ and Britons Jirike bojtie^ there cer- tainly ought, at its.conclufion, to be poet lau- reats of doleful countenances^ fmging and coui- pofing funeral dirges^ elegies^ and mournful ditties^ that contributing to footh the direful events of the w^ar, at the fame time fignify no farther rewards are granted at the treafury^ and that fufRcient payment for induftry and military ardour lie open in the uncultivated re- gions of North jimcrica^ and Botany-Bay, One LLS Dp of war, almoft cn- )eing con- :enant, he he farther Jan tngra- lows many Ircd dozen o have thus )oUcy that f the com- ), -vsith rtiii there eer- ie poet laU" g and coui- -d mournful the direful ime fignify tbe treafuryy iduftry and uhivated rc- ly-Bay. Oac OF A SEA OFFICER. 73 One of lam 'ne ol taefe poet laureats or me order .,. doleful countenance, perhaps, (like the cmiflariesof the Parifian police) being em- ployed under the rofe, to footh the feelings of negleaed officers, attempted fome elegiac drains of doleful compofition, and like a man receiving a pufli in cart, I returned it in tierce, and thus anfwered him. When erft Apollo's Heavenly lyre Firfl: founded on the plain, It joy and wonder did infpire To the Arcadian fwain. What homage then to Stultus great Should we in duty pay. Who e'en to pleafe us — racks his pate For verfes— night and day. Come then Hibernians, found the pruilV Of him your pride and poet; Snatch from Apollo's bror/ the bays, And to great Stult beftow it. The ifland I had now repaired to has for many ages been an afylum ; for in its internal regulations VOVACKS AND TRAVELS \ '* iTr^uliitinns it h pcnc(Mi)lc, and l)(jinj; I'cparatctl I))' a clianncl from the ]i)ity ranw,c ol the Car- narvonlhiic inounlaius, \\'x\ \\\ former ilays h is fuhjcCl to the imoails of attack, aiul pof- It'lfm}!; many atlvantap;cs iVom chcapncfs atul ulirnucnt, has hcoii of l.itc rears, together with other ]\i;ts i4" Wales, n\ueli refortcd to by Iriili iamilies, who in Icavini:; the flclh pots of their eoimlry, leave tliat hofpitafity few c titer eoiintries can hoall of. il ^y 1 m \ Ani;lefca is in j;cncral (111. 'with a h'glit foil, that jiroduec^ plenty of oats and barley, of v\hich the chief part ol" their bread is coni- pol'eJ; alio their ale, whieii in the Wellli Ian- rna.r'v' is eal e.l (kcr'iv : and thouiih vvha*: is nv;t with ni Dubl Ml, ur.( ler il le name d f Weilh- ule, is flrnnp;, cKai-, and good, yet the ale commonly u led through North Wales is very hid, An)\lfli'n bis but liillin^^ rojninncf , except tlio iinjMxi.uioii mih! cxportiilioii of pnllciij^crs, «>ih] in tills ;» lin;nl Ir.ulr is caniLiI rm by b'^ M;\icllv's p.»( kcts bdwctn I >iibbii ;n)il llolly- bc.nl. in V, Mnny ibni^bv al iiiui»j\iiticri nr( (in tbis i{l;iti(l ; ibclc ».bicflv roillili in nrilc l.n;,;r lloncs, liiiil acrols, ami Icui^iin^'; an alter Avbcic bunian lini! viCtnns were laeribeed ; ( tbeis releinbl-c nAounts or ]>laees of bmial, anil Ionic bavetbc appearance \vl\cre prol>ably tbeir ^;roves ami plaee«sot' worllvip oi\ee llooil. Mai\y vc(lij>;es remain of tbc tomiJalions ol boiiles in a cir- cular I'oim, anvl are culled (^oUciir iliv\tlclvif^ li|;nityii\i; tl.e boules v\ bunlcrs, en* Irilb. Tbeic are generally in a i\voup togetbcr, and arc i'uppored to have been creded on tbc clcarrll and moil lavourablc ipots l)t»rore tbc illand was cleared of woods ; for tbou}.',b at ccn, yet tbc pr cfent Icaree a tree is to be 1 natives relate from record, tbat Anglciea was formerly called tbe dark i/huui^ from tbc duiky appearance of its \voods. 'I'lic moll: beautiful \\ ^l nv \ Si:\ OM ICKR. tyt) (>r;intirul |>.irfs cK die ijl.md li:^ Ml(»n^ tlic (MrMiai (tint fcpiUMlcs /\iij;lclc;i iioiiiC I-iriMivon- lliirr) Mild tUc country irxini) IJc.Miiri.ii'h;, nliicli Is ;i (mill iiciit tf>wn Imilt ncir tlic let, .uicl i'i tlic (Iiii'l town of the ill.ind. N( mv licrc n IJ.uoti liill, the \\a\ of Ifud Jiidkuk v» ri l''rotii Aii^l'.Tca to (^arniirvotifldro, tlu! com* rntmii ation is l)y two ici rics, one near lianj^or, i:hI1ciI Horlh fcny, wlirictlie mail and padcn- f^crscforso!! their journey to and from Ireland; the other is oppolite the town of ( Carnarvon j this ferry, when the tide is in, is coliderahly broad, hut rendered dan^^erou;. I)y land hank '. Not lon^i; IJncc, the ferry hoat was erollin?; to (Carnarvon with near forty ]>eopIe ^';onij!; to market; as the tide Ava". i;(>lnL!; out, thry vvera left agrouiul on a fand-lMiik neai' hall way over, ;ind as they cxpi^led to \.\vX alloat on the return of the tide, weie not alarmed at their fituation, till the water l)e^';innin|^!; to How, found the l)oat inflcad of riling, kept fettling in the fand, and was heat over hy the waves ; in thi;j fituatioji they endeavoured, hy gettin^^ cm 280 VOYAGES AND TRAVEI^S on the land, to lighten the boat, and if pofliblo to lift her afloat ; imfortvniatcly their eftbrt:^ was ufelcfs, and the tide rlfing, prefented a certainty Oi their melancholy fiitc. Their eric?; were heard at Carnarvon, but no afliftancc could be attempted, and they all perilhed except one perfon. On an excurfion from Anglcfca I crofTed this ferry, and arrived at Carnarvon. A modern VVelfh writer of great ability, in fpeaking of Carnarvon, fays. *' This town h juftly the boaft of North Wales, for the beaut}' of its fituation, goodnefs of the buildings, regularity of the plan, and above all for the grandeur of the callle, the mofl magnificient badge of our fubje^lion." 1 am far from blaming the favourable defcription any man gives of his countiy; but muft remark, that though the fituation of Carnarvon is certainly very beautiful, yet the regularity of its plan, and the goodnefs of its building'^, admit not the fmallefl: compliment from any perfon who has {ccn the fmalkr towns of England. The OF A bEA OFFICER. 2S1 narvon. The caftle, from theftrcngth of the conftruc- tion, the boldnefs of its plan, together with its fituation, defervcs the attention of the traveller ; and having been built by Edward I. is a monument that confirms the conqucll of this country. It was built in the year 1 283 by the labour of the Welfli peafants, and at the expcncc of their gentry. The entrance is through a large gate, over which is a ftatuc of the founder, holding a dagger. The in- tcriour part lies in a ftate of unfurnilhed neg- kd. However the apartment where the firft Englilh prince of Wales was born is always an object of curiofity: this is in the princi- pal tower, called the Eagle's Tower, and from its fmall dimeniions and darknefs is a proof how little in thofe days convenience was confulted, as in a fpace fcarce twelve feet long, and eight bread, the queen of Edward I. lay in, and gave a prince to the conquered Brittons. t The views from the tops of the towers are At once beautiful, extenfive, and romantic; to rf# .>-f \ iJJi VOYACiF.S AM) TRAVKLS to the norih-\vcfl is tlic Iriili clKinncl ; lo tf»r uortli lies Anglelca, ^yth the Menai winding majcflically through fhorcs enriched with bcaiitifiil {I'anrarioiis; tothe ibuth-eafl: rife the lofty range of Carnarvonfhire mountains-, overtopped by Snowdon, forjninj^ ahogcthei «n enchanting profpedl. The communica- tion by veHels with Dublin, renders Carnar- son both a convenient and agrGcable pUce of refidcnee. Though Carnarvon lies ne.'\r the Tea, its trade is very inconfiderable, employing; a few tloops in carryiiig Hates or baick, principally jv) Ireland ; for no manufar\'on I vtlited the town of Pwlllielv, 18 miles difhmt, and ilnding an old Ichool-fcllow, John Hughes, Efq, of Trevan, »iet the kindcl\ reception at his ]ionfc. One oi his c(\-itcs lay in Mevioncthfliire, and op. cuwr »,' ^'::s: fi, A SEA OFFICER. 28 i nur way vil'itcd the fmall town and caftlc of Criclcactli ; the ruins of this caftle arc on the fiimmit of a higli hill that projc(Sts into the fea ; and from its fituation, had formerly been a place of great flrength, being cncreafed in fize by Edward I. who, to fccure the con- quell of Wales, feems not to have been inat- tentive to maintaining the ftrong holds, as he appointed one William De Leybourn to b>'; conftablc, with a falary of a hundred pound '. a year, for which he was to maintain a garri- fon of 30 ftout men, (ten of whom were to be crofs-bow men) one chaplain, one furgcon, one carpenter, and one mafon ; which extract ferves to give an idea how confiderably farthcr a hundred pounds could go inthofedays, than at prefent. ri From thence we pafled by Stymllyn, the feat of — Wynne. Efq. major of theCarnar- vonfhire militia. Travelling through a rugged countiy, in many places beautified with glens, well planted with oaks, and crolTmg an ex- tenfive fand at low water, we arrived at my N n friend'o ..iwmisimL^;,,^ . r^K sap rgs mmtmnr ^KJHRiRPi^SiHIIiPRBBB A 284 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS friend's feat at Havodgrcgog in Merronethftiire* The appearance of Merionethfliire at a diftance from the cragged appearance of its mountains promifed neither beauty or cultivation, till approaching Havodgregog, opened by degrees an unexpe(fled and luxuriant profpedb of a vale fituated between the loftieft mountains and prefenting the moft romantic beauties of nature, heightened by cultivation ; a fmalj river glided through the meadows, and on an eminence, that commanded an cxtenfive view* flood the ancient manfion. I had during my peregrinations feen many romantic fcenes, but Havodgregog feemed as if placed by nature in a diftant and un- frequented fituation, to excite, when vievved* the greater admiration ; and infpired the dull effort of my pen in the following lines : After a chafe by wild ambition fent, The world's four quarters rang'd in war's alarms ; To cheer the drooping heart is Havod knt, Whofe friendly iheltcr every bofom warms. Thea OF A SEA OFFICER, 285 Then blcft be Havod until Snowdon's height^ Shall, when no more, lie leVell'd with the plain ; May Hsvodever be the Hughes's right. And friendship ever at her Havod reign. The friencKhips of old acquaintance or fchool-fellows are not only pleafing, but ferve to create a good opinion of mankind in gene- ral, which an univerfal knowledge of the world is but too apt to deftroy . When after a fortnight thus agreeably fp^nt, I returned towards Snow- den, and from its fummit beheld an extenfive profpedt bounded to the weftward by the mountains of Wicklow and Wexford, rifing from the horizon, 80 miles diftant acrofs the Iriflx channel. The ifland of Anglefea appears almoft unde;rneath, and feems by its low fitu- ation filently to pay homage to the height of Snowdon, where formerly the armies of the Welfh princes often encamped, and with the fpirit of the natives, contributed by its ad- vantageous fituation to protract that conqueft, which the fuperiour numbers of the Englilh with difficulty effedted. The top cf Snowden h covered with fncw In the middle of July, and 4 i ' w t\ m z96 VOYAGES and TRAVELS and when the wind blows from the eafl.ward» fwceps Anglefea with a keen cutting bicc/.c. From hence I proceeded to Bangor, a (mall town, though a bilhop's lee, and beautifully lituated at a fmall diftance from the fea that fepa*^ rates Beaumaris and Anglefea from (^iunarvon* thire. Thefe cxcurfions gave mc an oppor- ; unity of judging of the manners and popu- lation of the country, and though the number of inhabitants of Wales are computed at three hundred thoufand, I imagine it far ex-* cceds that calculation. '^ I had chofen for my place of refidence la Anglefea a retired fpot near an arm of the fea, where fifhing in fummer, and llioot- ing in the winter feafons, chiefly employed my ' 288 VOYAGKS and lRAVl!.LS p,iir of hr^—b — .r, goes tbrnugb the world ; and thciclovc braved llic diilicuUics of the journey. Lciving tl\r iflaiul of Anglofca, I piilTcil throiit^h I^augor, aiul tlicncc arrived at the iout of the eelchratcd mountain ot IVn-man- niawr, that recalled to memory the lines of my coimtryman, Dean Swift, vvliofe mode of tra- velling thefe parts I now followed ; for be- ivirc the afeet\t cf the road tlicrc flood a finall ale-houle, which being favv)ared by the Dean's call, was celebrated leveral years after- ward for the lollowiiig lines (^wrote on the fii;ti,) conipoicvl by the Dean : Vi-rorr v'-u try this l>ill '■' jiafs^ Ih fiuv; to tilkc 4 iKiilty gli»(si An advivo that war. very applicable to the fa- tigue neeciVaiv lor a pedtllrian before he could attain the top ; for no other fpot could be. fo\nul i^^ coiue-.iivut for a road from C'-htfler to lloUhead, le.Hliug ihvough thofc Britilh Alp;', than this, winch is fccn^pcd through the ;iln\i^i\ peipeuvlieulav fide i>i ren-miin-mawt, ami ■■•^^ OP A SEA OFFICFR. 289 and fccurcd by arches, formed under the highcrt part of the road, from whence ;i fpcQator not only has a view of the fca towards Liverpool ;md Paik^ate, with fcvcral promontories that heighten the grandeur of the ])rofpcd, hut is alfo furpri/ed at the feeming danger of his lituation, where the foot of an immcnfc pre- cipice diredly under, is wa(hed by the impetu- ous daOiingsof the waves, and on looking up, lie beholds the craggcd (ummlt of tlic mountain, threatening dcftrudrion by the numerous large rtones that arc in appearance (lightly held from falling. Frequently thin liappcns, par- ticularly in froft and fnow, when the crevices and lodgements of ihofe (tones are penetrated and loofcncd. But this was the Hghicft in- convenience, whca compared to the rifque in former years, (before the road was fecurcd by a wall) of horfet and carriages being prc-ipi- tated down th» precipice, and da(hcd to pieces. Thcfe accidents have happened, and by cn- }';a[^in;5 the attention of the public, has occa- lionc.'d tl>c prcfcnt improved ftatc of a road, whereby i ! ,!1 K- k 290 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS whereby is the great Gonnedion betweea the two kingdoms. > J Defcending this height, an ale-houfe ftood at the bottom, where its fign had the follow- ing verfe, compofed by the Dean : • -, Another glafs take, now you're over. Your drooping fpirits to recover. Pafling over Penman-bach, I reached Con- way, that at a diftance has a very beautiful ap- pearance from its fituatlon on the fide of a hill, rifmg from a river, that at high-water is near a mile broad. It is furrounded with a wall, and entering through a large gate, was furprized to find the ftreets and buildings ex- tremely rugged and irregular. . The caftle of Conway is particularly magni- ficent, and dcferves that praife the forti- fications encompaffing the town by no mea.is merit. Th< OF A SEA OFFICER. 291 The tide flows a confiderable height up the river Conway, and briijgs Hoops and other fmall veflels almoft as high as Llanrwft. One of the principal ferries in north Wales is here, that being expofed to northerly winds and ihoals, has frequently made travellers prefer the road to London through Shrewfbury, as they avoid this ferry by paffing at Llanrwft^ over the famous bridge built there by Inigo Jones* I From Conway 1 proceeded towards St. Afaph's and the middle of May rearhed the city of Chefter, from whence I pafled on, and arrived in London on the 2 2d. As the fleet was equipping with every difpatch, I determined to join it after paffing my examination for a lieuteuant ; I therefore gave in my name at the admiralty, and as the examination takes place the firft Tuefday in each month, had but a fhort time to prepare, and after providing proper uniform and confulting the theories of the beft books of navigation, at length, on the begin- ning : .\ I- M 'h^ O o i| .-i.. iqi V^)V/\Gi:S AND J'KAVKLS iiiirg oi' June, approached Hic avvlul pl.uc ( f trial, at llic new builiUn^^s o\ iSomerrel-hoiilr. I here joineil in the h''l an iiniuuile i lowd ol the iintortunatc trihe ot « ullhipiiu n, thai heiug vcady lor examination, weic allured by- hope ot promotion, to aHcnhlo IVoin all tpiartcrs, and in the hour (^1 danger to Hand Jorih it\ the lerviee ot their country. In thi-v en)\vii 1 perceived an old tehool-lellow, and while the lirll on the lill were examining, wr chatted over lormer (itnes, with now and then a glatice at o\n' prelent liluatiiMi ; happenitig to he near each other on the lili, were called up, and heiiig llniheil hr coniing oiV with tlvinr c(>loius, adit>urncil to a nciehhourinr tavern, where, conr;ratulatiiig on our };()(iil fortune, we tettledthe plan toi oin tiitinc ope- ration}-^ A. reatler unacquainted with the hidden mvUerics ot" naval matters, might tnppofe, leaving paiVed the examination, that ^ve were now ow the \'\\\ of licntrn.nUi'., n^nd rntltlcd to receive th.at p.iv vmv former lervicc dc- ~ ■ r.nuulcd ,%;n^ "•"■R^^.^ »■•■ OF A SICA OIMCKK. 293 m;ii»(l'.vl ; — iu> Inch tiling; ; — :il);)iil tlilrtcculiuru (IrctI lull pidlvl tlu'liiiri* CKanliiiitiod liiicc flic peace, .'uul ',[% a prolpcct ol promotion iio*7 l.iy open fVonv the |»rcp.ir.itioM oF the prefciit aniiatnent, out of this iitiinher ahoiit an hun- dred oidy were to he ( onlirined, atul the red, on heinj^ dilmined with the leripture vcrlc^ t>i(rfiy «//r cnllrff^ hut few arc clmfciiy were to he amply provided for, hy inidlhipinan's half pay, vi/. tiutbimr per ilay^ and to find tbc.mfclves. As the fnpcriority of the IkitiOi navy ha; been ehiclly indebted to the experience of its olfieern, arilinj; Iroin the time of fervice ne- eellary for a midlhipman to ferve, before he can attempt palfing for a lieutenant, it may ot be unintcrcfling to remark the time rc- cjnireil, and the fteps ncecffary for paffing. The full time \\ lix: yearn, four of which mud be fpcnt in w'X^wA fervice, with the othej two yciu') ratel on ?Iic books of fome man oi war, on the luppr)Iitioji of acquiring the nc- eell'.ny theory ; alfo two years of this time mud be a . rated micHhidman; and when tha tiioc^ h I ••*■' »"i _.^L. t.ie'.: „ . .^. ^mmtitMt)m 294 VOYAGES and TRWRLS time is expired, if the middiipmau thinks himfelf fufficiently prepared for examination, he muft then take the following fteps: At the admiralty near Charing-crofs, a lift is kept of thofe who are to pafs the enfuing month, and arrarvged for priority of examination, according as the names are delivered in. 'It .• v. The journals for the two year^ of rated midfliipman's time are indefpenfably necef- fary, which, with the certificates from the different Captains he has ferved under, are in the mean time lodged in the hands of one of the clerks at the navy office, in Somerfet-build- ings; whoalfo confirms, by a certificate drawn from the fhip's books, the exad: time and qualification ferved in each ihip. When the day arrives, he muft attend about TO o'clock in the morning at the hall, drcfTed in full uniform and fword, and when called ©n, goes up to the pafTmg room, leaving his hat and fword with the porter who attends the door. He here finds the pafTmg Captains, who ^^ tv «.*i,*^ f. LS OP A SEA OFFICER. 295 n thinks mi nation, 3: At the s kept of lonth, and according of rated )ly necef- from the er, are in of one of irfet-build- :ate drawn time and nift attend t the hall, and when ►m, leaving who attends ig Captains, who who from their abilities and experience, are feleiSlcd on this occafion, and are in general three in number. They defirc him to fit "down, and being provided with pen and paper, it is expeded he (hall folve the fevcral rules of the theory of navigation ; fuch as finding the time of high- water; to afccrtaia the variation of the compafs by the Sun's am- plitude or azimuth ; to find the latitude by meridian or double altitudes; and if he caa afcertain the longitude by lunar obfervations, fo much to his credit ; he is alio fuppofed to know the calculations by dead reckoning, and thence to find the fliip's place, by the rules of Mercator, or middle latitude failing. Having proved his knowledge of thefc heads of theory, he is defired to ftand up^ when he undergoes a ftridl examination con- cerning the working of a Ihip on all occafions, and by his anfwers, they form an opinion of his real abilities, and accordingly either fign their nnmes to his pafTing certificate, or turn him »^n 1 . ■ n «M6i*. *■-.,, ■'^■■'t-':^'f % 295 VOYAGES WD TRWELS him back to acquire more informatiou by longer experience. My friend had promifed to join the Ardent fitting out at Portfmouth, under the command of captain James Vaflion, and having wlt- neffed the bravery of this gentleman the lalt war, I wilhcd to fervc under his command. In the mean time I had received promifes of promotion, and following hope, that like a yack'O 'the-lanthent^ ftill led me on, arrived at Portfmouth, and had the fatisfadion to find my friend and myfclf appointed mafter's mates. The Ardent had juft began to equip ; and when ready for fea, in Auguft weighed anchor from Spithead, and failed round to the Downs, where we compleated our Ihip's company by prefling the crew of a fleet of Weft India-men that then opportunely arrived. From hence we returned to Spithead, and formed part of ' a fquadron deftined for the Weft Indies. Spain, by felzing fome of our fliips in Nootk^ Sound on the northern coaft of Ame- rica, ii' .-»> ^ ^M^r- '- OF A SEA orilCER. 297 lica, had occafioncd the fitting out the prcfent armament, that being joined by feme Dutch men of war, lay at Spithead under the com- mand of Lord Howe, who hoifted the Union flag on board the Royal Charlotte of no guns. Befides the intention of reprifals, this armament was to ferve as the means of fecu- ring an undifputed right to trade to Nootka Sound, "that after a period of fome centuries, might return the moft pecuniary advantages to Great Britain." For the enlightened politics of the prefcnt day, widely differed in opinion from a curious and crufty old gentleman, who, on being ad- vifed to undertake fome meafure that would be of ufc to his pofterity, archly replied " he fhould firft be glad to fee his pofterity do fomething for him." Thcfe are only a few nonfcnfical ideas of a cock-pit, for thofe who know the government of a man of war, muft be affured, that if a midfhipman can hardly view the Captain's cabin without trembling, much lefs can he attempt forming a proper "^ idea I i^ i, -1 ft a->r .,(-•■ 298 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS idea of politics, by daring to pry into th^ budget of a minifter. Scon after, the fquadron weighed anchor and proceeding down the Englifli channel, con.^ filling of fix fail of the line. Ships, Guns. Commanders^ Marlborough, 74, Admiral Corniihv CuUoden, 74, Cumberland, 74, Captain M'Bride* Orion,. 74, Chamber layne Lion, 64, — — Finch* Ardent 64, VafliGii. \ - i ■ CrofTing the Bay oi Bifeay, we (leered to the foiith, and dircdlcd our courfe for the ifland of Madeira. Our fhip's company be- ing new ami untrained to the difcipliue of a man of war, gave full empioyiaent to the officers, in perfediiig them in the vSq. of the great guns; nor did the aUcntion cf captain- Vafhon let flip any opportunity to render his^ fliip fit for adtion As the method of iiring; > ELS into the ichor and inel, con.' OF A SEA OFFICER. 299 ers- nilh- Jride. mberlayne. :h. • ilcered to* e for the npaiiy bc- pUuc of a :nt to the ifc of the of captain,- render his^ 1 of firing; the grc.t guns by locks is not a general prac- tice, I fhall obferve, that our great guns were fitted with them, and though the feamen were at firft difpleafed at the innovation, yet prac- tice confirming the opinion of their fuperiority to the match, reconciled them to an invention that has received the- approbation of many experienced officers. Favourable winds foon brought uS to Ma- daira, where we remained a week at anchor before the town of Funchal, and took in a fupplyofwine for the different fhips. This ifland in latitude, 32" 37' N. longitude 17^ I ' W. is exceeding high, and prefcnts a beauti- ful and interefting profpea from the fea, by the verdure of its remaining woods inter- fperfed among the rocks. Formerly this in;ind, when difcovered by the Portugucic, was ahnoil covered with wood, from whence it took its prefent name of Madeira ; that v^ord fignify- ing wood in the Spanifli and Povtuguefc lan- guages. Its principal produce is wine, which is generally taken in quantities by fhips bound to the \Vefl or Eaft Indies, as it po/rcOcs rho peculiar quality of meliorating in a warm climate. p n k .f ^ I /J 1 V w ighJnsr -- -> - Ti < ■ r 1 ' ■ -i 1:1 p»- 300 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS Weighing anchor, the fquadron fhaped its courfe to the S. W. and thereby gaining the trade winds, came in fight of the ifland of Barbadoes, after a pleafant paiTage of three weeks fince we left Madeira. We faw the ifland in the afternoon, and lying too during the night, made fail the following morning and arrived at Carliflc-Bay, where the fqua- dron anchored. We found here fome forty-gun (hips that had brought the 1 3th regiment from Ireland : *or a confiderable land force was collecting, in order to co-operate with the men of war in cafe the condud of the Spaniards gave occa- fion for hoftility. Barbadoes lies low, in comparifon to moft of the iflands in the Wefl-Indies ; and • is ex- ceedingly fruitful in its produce, fuch as fugar, coffee, rum, fruits, cotton and other articles. A confiderable number of troops are conftantly ftationed here, befides a militia compofed of the freemen of the iiiard. TI 1=^ LLS haped its gaming ifland of of three faw the 10 during morning the f(iua- hips that . Ireland : :olle£ling, of war in Tave occa- n to moft and is ex- h as fugar, er articles, conftantly mpofed of Th5> OF A SEA OFFICER. 30 X The chief town is Bridge-town, built near the fea, and bordering on Carliflc-bay ; it has a few good ftreets, and an excellent church. During our (lay, the greateft cordiaHty fub- fifted between the navy and the army, and I fortunately met with feveral countrymen and fchool-fellows, officers in the different regi- ments. An old fhipmate, \vho had pafTed for lieu* tenant lafl war, I found " fafe moored" in the poffeirion of an excellent plantation, where I frequently experienced a hearty wel- come. The natives of this ifland pride themfelvcs on their fuperior politenefs. For if a Barba- does ncgroe is afked— What ifland he belongs to? he replies, " Maffa, me neither Crab nor Creole, but true Barbadian bom.** The women confifl of a few whites, fome mu- lattoes, and many negroes. Our Pccmc N. W* Histoy Dept, li'i 302 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS Our fhip's company had frequently the pleafure of their company, and the danccg they were inljpired to by Ibme black fidlers, with plenty of grog, made the failors for- get the ftriiSt difcipline of a man of war. In this fituation we remained anxious for the arrival of the packets from Eng- land, to confirm the certainty of peace or war ; and Chriftmas being at hand, took the advantages of having a fine, though warm climate, with abundance of provifion, to lebrate that feflival comme il faut. About this time, early one morning, wc perceived hundreds of the crew of the Orion ^4, jump over board; a thick fmoke alfo break- ing out, difcovcred (he had taken fire. The boats of the fquadron were dffpatched to her afliftance, but the bravery and exertion of cap- tain Chamberlyne with fome officers, pre- vented any fatal confequences, by happily ex- t inguiiliing the fire ; which beginning near the boatlwain's ftore-room, might foon have com- municated to the magazine. CHAP. CF A SEA OFFICER. ntly the ; danccg ic fidlers, iors for- f war. anxious n Eng- jeace or took the h warm 303 ion. fo ling, wc le Orion fo break- -e. The ;d to her n of cap- :ers, pre- ppily ex- ■ near the lave com- H AP. CHAP. XXII. r ne author returns to Europe, and hoping fir employment fror. the afpcei of prefent politics, hnngs, his narrative to a conclufion. Soon after Chriftmas, intelligence ar- med firom England of the confirmation of peace, and the fquadron being recalled to England, we weighed anchor the latter end of January 1791, and ftretching to the north- ward, paffed the French iflands of Martinico, Dominica and Guadaloupe ; and about the latitude of the Bermudas, found the variable winds, when fteering to the eaftward, we di- reded our courfe for England. Though the navigation in the mild climate of the Weft-Indies, is at this feafon of the year 1 k (. > % ■^■^' ^>#.- ■>«.■»■ ^»»far»»- 304 VOYAGES and TRAVELS year unruffled with ftorms ; yet in approach- ing the northward, we became liable to meet with heavy weftern gales from the North Ame- rican coaft, which, according to the condition of fhips, or fquadrons, renders it necefTary to decide what courfe they ihould fteer for Europe. For, if a (Irong and well-equipped (hip is defirous of a quick palFage, it would then be proper to keep well to the northward of the Azores, or Weftern-Iflands ; but, if fearful of ftorms, the courfe is fkfer by fleering to the fouthward of them. By this confideration having been negle^fced, the La Villc de Paris and many of the fleet foundered in the year 1782, on their return to Europe ; for being in fome degree leakey, and weakened in their hulls after repeated en- gagements, were unequal to refill the ftorms ihey unfortunately met with. On I ^-, — ndition :eirary to fteer for d fhip is then be d of the fearful of ng to the egIe(Sted, the fleet ir retura e leakey, eated en- e ilorms On OF A SEA OFFICER. 305 On our paflage to Europe, we came in fight of the Weftern Iflands, and thence fliaped our courfe for the Englifli channel. The Orion 74 being a heavy failer, parted company ; and though we took every advan- tage of the weather, yet (he fulfilled the fay- mg, that " the race is not always to the fwift/' as fhe arrived in I«:ngland the lirft, At the entrance of the channel, Wc expe- rienced fome heavy gales that feparated [he fquadron 5 the Ardent being the only ihip that accompanied the admiral to Spithead, where we arrived the latter end of February. The chief part of the immenfe armament that had been afTembled was paid off, and the promotion having taken place, I had the diffatisfaaion to find I remained negleded, and unconfirmed; therefore bidding adieu once more to fo precarious a fervice, have now only patiently to await, when time, by its revolution, Ihall open a happy moment that may prove, « Britain is as jull as powerful.'' Therefore 4 ■* -■, ■.■st ™fc^" Si 1 4 >♦■ >' %> 306 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, &c. Therefore, reader, having taken the trouble to perufe this fimple narrative, let what you have read concerning the author, and what opinion he hopes for in your bread, be in fome degree influenced by the following couplet : ** The fword I've held — alfo my pen, " And trult I'll hold my fword again." ^ Adieu. FINIS. K« >'■ .; . T S, &c. :he trouble what you and what aft, be in following dieu. '^ -jj^^ » ■y- v: :. f