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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 AROUND THE WORLD DUE WEST TO THE FAR EAST ^^«p h AROUND THE WORLD DUE WEST TO THE FAR EAST BY KOBHRT STUART MacARTHUR AUTHOk 0|: 'Current QjustioHs for Tli inking iMen" " The Celestial l.amp,''^ ""Qtth/i Truths from Qjtamt Texts," *"liihle 'nij/inilttes ami their t/}llevijtnv Interpretation," ''The OlJ'/iook anJ the OU Faith," "Sunday 0\'ii>ht Lec- tures on the Land and the 'Hook," etc. Travel makes all men countrrmen, makes people noblemen and kiuiis, every man tasting of liberty and dominion. —i,4moi 'Branson lAlcott, " CoiicorJ 'ZJit/s " PHILADELPHIA Zbe Grltlitb S. 'KowlanO pxcse igoo Copyright iQoo by RoBtRT STUART MacARTHUR KIcctrotBpc& anb printeb b^ tbe Hmerkan Kaptiet PubKcatJon SocUtB \ To the (Members OI THE Calvary? JBaptlst Cburcb AND Conorcflatlon H'/iosf patuiui\ iiffi'ctiou^ atiJ prayers maiic the tu\-nty-Jiftli anniversary of the preaent pastorate possible; ami zcfiose coiisiJerate generosity made the celebration of that anniversary by a trip arotinJ the xtorlJ also possible THIS VOLUME: IS Bttcctionatclx} H)c01catcD BY THHIR Sincere jftiend and (pastor l^ohert Stuart [MaetArthur t PREFACE Modern facilities for travel are now so great that the circumnavigation of the globe is com- paratively a small matter. Travel is a great educator. A Spanish proverb says, "He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies, must carry the wealth of the Indies with him." It is certain that to bring back a coissiderable amount of information the tourist must carry with him no small degree of knowledge. This author can make no special claim in that respect, however nnich he may appreciate tlie truth of the proverb. But whether or not one starts thoroughly fur- nished with knowledge, he can appreciate the truth of Alcott's words, " Traveling is no fool's errand to him who carries Jiis eves and itinerarv with him." An enormous amount of work in travel, read- ing, observing, and writing was put into the five months occupied in making this journey; that much can be said with absolute trutli and with equal frankness. The Calvary Church gener- ously allowed a year for the trip ; but a senst of duty to the work left behind forbade the full ac- ceptance of the kind offer. There is some gain, however, in seeing how much can be done in five months. Jules Verne vii vui PREFACE was daring in his story of a trip around the world in eighty days ; but with the opening of the Trans-Siberian Railway the journey may be made, with but little fatigue and equally little risk, in thirty-three days. This volume would have appeared sooner but for a disastrous fire which necessitated delay ; but it has been thought wise to allow the text to remain as it was originally written. The author indulged in some rather bold prophecies "egard- ing the relation of Hawaii to the United States, and also touching other matters ; and it is strangely interesting to see how literally history has fulfilled these predictions. If the reader can get any part of the enjoy- ment out of this trip which the writer had in making the journey, investigating historical facts, and recording his observations, the reader will not have read, nor the writer have traveled and written, in vain. The Author. New York, Calvary Study, Aug. i, 1900. I CONTENTS ..IIAPTBR ^^,_„ I. The Start i A (Jlimpse of Chicago— Salt Lake City— Our I5ap- tist Work— Some Other Matters— What About Mor- monistn ? II. Ogdkn to San Francisco 15 Oases in the Desert- San Francisco— A 'I'riji to Oakland— A Glimpse of Chinatown— A Meeting of Brethren. III. San Francisco to Honolulu 27 The Passengers— Xearing the Islands— In Hono- lulu — A Busy Sunday. IV. Visiting the Volcano 3^ Molokai— Other Islands—Hawaii— Arriving at Hiio — The Crater of Kilauea. V. HiLO AND THE IsLANDS 52 Return to Ililo — Sunday in Hiio — Sensitive Points This and That. VI. Honolulu Again 6e The lolani Palace— Buildings, Schools, and Parks— The Climate — Hawaii Americanized. VII. Hawaiian History 77 The Native Race— Foreign Influence — Reactions — The Revolution— Establishment of the Republic- Royalist Revolt. VIII. The Hawaiian Future 53 Future of the Natives— The Bishop Museum — " The Glorious Fourth "—The Hawaiian "Fourth." IX. Religious Development of Hawaii . . 105 Obookia — Some Missionaries — Foreign Churches. ix V i CONTENTS X. At Ska Acain ii6 'I'lio Sliip and rassengcrs — The Chinese Steerage — Mid-ocean Taslinies — Crossing the Line — Arriving at Vokuhania. XI. Japanese History 131 Early Japan — Introduction of Catholicism — Over- tluow of the Jesuits — Opening of the Country — Various Items. XII. A Sunday in Yokohama 146 The Jinrikisha — Visiting Churches — Some Fine In- stitutions — A Glimpse of Vokohania. XIII. Japan's Ancient Places 157 Striking Contrasts — A Typhoon — Kamakura — Northward to Nikko. XIV. To THE "Eastern Capital" .... 170 off for Karuizawa — A Glimpse of Tokyo — Asakusa — Back to Vokohama. XV. Across Three Seas 180 Leaving Vokohama — A Visit to Arima — Through the Inland Sea — OIT for Hong Kong. XVI. Japan's Progress 191 Japanese Missions — The School Question — Several Japans — Passports — Some Japanese Words. XVII. Religion and Morals 202 Native Religion — Lack of Morality — Work of Prot- estant Missionaries — Difficulties of the Mission- aries — Up to 1890. XVIII. Peculiarities of Japan 213 Cheap I>iving — Diminutive People — Practically Slaves — Politeness — Japanese Handicaps. XIX. The Gibraltar of the East .... 226 Hong Kong Harbor — The Capital City — Charac- teristic Spots — Three-Century-Old Macao. . ii6 131 146 157 170 I So 191 202 COx\TEx\TS xi XX. A Nick of China 2-8 Nearing Kwang-tuny— llie Wallt-d City— Streets of Canton — Chief .Sights. XXI. More About China 252 Chinese Traits— The Massacres— Leaving Honu Js.ong — Orientals Aboard, XXII. SiNCJAI'ORK ^^, A Floating Home— Half- way Around the World— 1 he Capital of the Straits Settlements— '] he Chinese Agani— Tropical Heat. XXIII. Penanc; and Cevi.on 276 Penang— On the Indian Ocean— A Dilemma— The Island of Ceylon— The Mahawanso— The Island reople To-day, XXIV. Cities of Cevlon 29 > The Trip to Kandy— Glimpses of Colombo— A Com- parison. XXV. "Indika" .302 No India— The Count y Described— A Rich Conti- nent — 1 he Government. XXVI. Conquests of India ^jc The Aborigines— The Greek Period— Modern Con- tacts—Great Britain in Control— Religions and Peo- ples. XXVII. Calcutta 32^ India's Capital— The City of Palaces— Serampore. XXVIII. Benakes, The Holy Citv -.40 Poverty Amid Plenty— Penares— A Strategic Point — Comforts of Travel. XXIX. Ganges Cities ^eg Allahabad — Jubbulpore — Cawnpore Memorials — Ihe Sepoy Mutiny— British Retribution, 'i: XU CONTKNTS XXX. LrcKNow 375 The City of tlio Mutiny — Sir Henry Havelock — The Sikanchira Maj^h — I.t-ssons of the Mutiny. XXXI. Dklhi 389 Seven Delhis — Palaces and Thrones — Marvelous I'iliars — Treasure and Slau(j;hter. XXXII. AcRA 404 The MoRul Capital — The Taj Mahal — The Fort and Other liuildings. XXXIII. Wkstf.rn India 415 Ajmere — Ahinedabad — Tombs and Mosques — Jey- pore or Jaipur. XXXIV. Bombay 43° India's Chief Port — Public Buildings — The Native (Quarter — The Parsis — The Caves of Elephanta. XXXV. Thr Arabian Ska 449 Farewell to India — Aden — Entering the Red Sea. XXXVf. Thk Red Sea 462 Its Ports and its Colors — Suez — The Great Canal — A Glance at Egypt. XXXVII. Cairo "The Victorious". ... 476 The First City of Africa — At the Pyramids — The Sphinx — Streets of Cairo — Alexandria. XXXVIII. "The Isles of Greece" .... 492 Oriental Passengers — Historic Places — Rhodes — Apostolic Associations — A Glimpse of Athens — Smyrna — Troy. XXXIX. Constantinople 514 Constantinople — The Suburbs. XL. Constantinople to London . . . 522 A I.ong Rj ilvvay Ride — Days in London — Conclu- sion. -The -Jey- Vative a. I Sea. al— A —The 375 . . . 389 velous , . . 404 rt and 415 430 . 449 462 476 )des- lens- . 492 . 522 onclu- AROUND THE WORLD THE STAP.T ATRIP around the world is a small matter to-day compared with what it was a gene- ration, or even a decade, ago. Bnt it is still trne that long journeys by land and sea have to be taken, many inconveniences have to be ex- perienced, and some dangers have to be en- countered. Tli>; start was made from New York on Tuesday, June 4, 1895, at 2 p. m., by the Penn- sylvania Railway for Chicago. One does not teel that he has really started so long as he still IS in our own country; but it took some courage to say the last good-bye to familv and church friends, and to take the first step toward put- ting continents and oceans between the trav- eler and all who are dearest on earth. Not until the celebration of the twenty-fifth anni- versary of the pastorate were the strength and ^naerness of the pastoral tie fully appreciated. The view of members of the family and the church friends who came to the station, and who AROUND TIIK WORLD I I f ' watched as the train rolled out, will long remain as a cherished memory. A friend of college days, and of the many years since, was at the station in Philadelphia to give his greeting and to say good-bye. His courtesy was greatly appreciated ; and the ride through the picturesque regions of Pennsylvania was much enjoyed. A copiotis rain during the night settled the dust and cooled the heated air. The morning found us at Columbus, Ohio, and the ride to Chicago, over finely cultivated fields, in the cool air and in the bright sunshine, was truly delightful. A Glimpse of Chicago. — Early in the after- noon Chicago, with its black smoke, its wonder- ful history, and its brilliant future, appeared in the distance. While waiting for the train on the Northwestern road there was time for reflec- tion on Chicago. The most remarkable thing which foreigners who visited the Columbian Exposition at Chicago saw was Chicago. In its early history it was simply an Indian trading- post established by an enterprising French Negro. In 1804 the government built a log fort and named it Henry Dearborn, after the secretary of war at the time. During the war of 18 12 the fort was evacuated, and in 181 6 a new one was built. It was not until 1833 that the real work of making a city was begun. It is not a little surprising to remember now, as we ride through this great city, that in 1832 the population was less than one hundred; that in 1833 it was two ^ remain he many ladelpliia I ye. His the ride isylvania iring- the sated air. )liio, and ed fields, line, was the after- wonder- )earcd in train on or reflec- le thinj>^ himbian In its trading- 1 Negro. ort and etary of 812 the one was al work a little hrough ion was was two I THE START thousand ; that in two years more it was four thousand ; that in 1845 it was twelve thousand ; and that in 1849 it was twenty-three thousand ; and so it increased until in 1880 it was the lead- ing city of the West, with a population of five hundred and three thousand; in 1890 it had one million two hundred thousand, and in 1894 one million five hundred tliousand. It is no wonder that the people of Chic.igoarc proud of their city. It is the capital of a vast empire Her great fires were a blessing in a thin disguise. They gave Chicagoans an opportunity to build a nobler city and to show their undaunted courage. New York, because of her history and location, must continue to possess great advantages over Chi- cago, but the Western city will always have op- portunities and successes peculiarly her own. She has recently made rapid strides in the di- rection of municipal reform. The civic federa- tion of Chicago is already a great power for good. Its influence is felt in every part of the city government. Its president is Mr. Lyman J. Gage, who is also president of the First National Bank, and one of the ablest financiers in America.' The administration of Mayor Hopkins was a disappointment to all lovers of municipal re- form ; and the people resented his failure in his high office by electing George B. Swift by a major- ity of over forty thousand. In that election the city adopted the Civil Service Law passed by • Since these words were written Mr. Ciage, as all know, has hecome Secretary of the United States Treasury. His course therein more than justifies the estimate here recorded. AROUND TlIK WORMJ i I' 1 1 the State legislature. This law makes it certain that the city will have a better govcrniiieiit; and the law as enacted by the State cannot be re- pealed by any city council. This law provides that three Civil Service commissioners shall be appointed by the mayor, that competitive ex- aminations shall be open to all for entrance to municipal service, that promotions shall be made on the basis of merit, and that politics will not be considered in appointments, promotions, or removals. Chicaq^o is thus the first city in the country to adopt such a system for its own ^ov- ernment. Other cities will have to imitate her example. Cities govern the country. If they are not well governed there is no hope for the re- public. The time will soon come in New York when it will not be an insuperal)le barrier to civic promotion that a man is an American by birth and a Protestant in faith. SAI.T lyAKR City. — After a brief stay in Chi- cago, on we rode by day and by night until over sixteen hundred miles were passed, and Salt Lake City was reached. In being able to visit this citv a long-cherished wish was p-ratified. Indeed, the determination to make this visit led to the selection of the route of travel chosen, and to the postponement of a visit to Los An- geles and other interesting places in its vicinity. It was difficult to realize on the way to the hotel that forty-eight years ago this valley was an un- broken wilderness. Now it is cultivated to a degree of prosperity scarcely equaled in any TIIK START l)art of the country. Ivveii a jj^lance showed that tlie city is laid out iu broad streets inter- secting one another at right angles, that these streets are bordered with eottonwood trees, Loni- bardy poplars, and other trees, and that in each gutter a stream of water swiftly flo-.vs, making sweet music and giving life and jjeauty to all forms of vegetation. A glimpse also showed the great Mormon Temple and Tabernacle, the roof of the latter lookin ? This is their state- ment : " What God reveals we accept. We ask no questions ; we raise no objections. The rev- elation may be distasteful, but we obey. He has revealed his will regarding polygamous mar- riages, and we accept the doctrine. But the laws of the United States are against the prac- tice ; we, therefore, hold the principle, but sus- pend the practice." This is a fair statement of their side of the case. But do they suspend the practice? On that point Gentiles are very skep- tical, and they will give you reasonable grounds for their skepticism. They do not believe in the honesty of many IVIormons in this regard. There is, however, at least ostensible conformity to the law, but many suggestions are made as to clandestine violations of it. Many Gentiles feel that if the Territory is received into the Union as a State polygamy will be ope.^.ly and defiantly practised, and there is ground for this fear.^ The * The result of granting statehood to the Territory has more than justified the fears here expressed regarding the continuance hi THE START 13 ^ Mormons have been and are an industrious peo- ple. They have literally transformed the desert into a garden ; they have made it blossom as the rose. But there are in Mormouism marked elements of weakness; it cannot hold the young people. I attended meetings of the " Young Men's Mutual Improvement Association." This organization is doing much work ; but at the Sunday after- noon service — an anniversary gathering — the presidents of many of the " Stakes " complained bitterly of the lack of interest shown by the young in the work. President Woodruff spoke in the same spirit; a strain of pathos marked his address because of his own advanced years, and because of the indifference of the young. He earnestly exhorted them to manifest greater diligence, but it was evident that he had not much hope of seeing his desire realized. It is said on every side that many are neglectful of their tithes. The Tabernacle was not more than two-thirds full, even on this anniversary occa- sion. There is not now the religious experience on the part of the young which the older gen- eration possessed. They are baptized at eight years, and no religious experience is expressed or expected. The old spirit of daring and of heroism, which made many of the pioneers zea- lots and martyrs, is now largely wanting ; their of polygamy. The election of Brigham H. Roberts, although he was an avowed polygamist, shows the hold polygamy has on the people. But the refusal of the House to seat him gives po- lygamy a stinging rebuke. 14 AROUND THE WORLD political power also is waning. Salt Lake City is in the hands of Gentiles. Few pastors or missionaries whom I met favored giving statehood to Utah ; bnt they recognize that it is coming, and they do not wish to be found as earnestly in opposition. God help the Christian brethren to do their full duty in this crisis. Baptists are best abie to meet the errors of Mormonism, and God is giving us great opportunities. Long will the memory of this visit live in the writer's mind. Beautiful is Salt Lake City, glorious arc its mountains, and superb is the historic valley. The air was a con- stant delight, and mere living was an inspiration. Rarer than even Mr. Lowell's rare days in June were those spent in the congenial friendship, the perfect atmosphere, and the appreciated rest at Salt Lake City. II OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO THE word " Utah " is of Indian derivation, and is said to mean, "A home on a moun- tain " ; it is related to the word Ute, the name of the Indian tribe. The Territory contains a little over eighty-four thousand square miles, and the yearly value of its farm products is not less than ten million dollars. On Monday morning, after the two days of rest in Salt Lake City, in com- pany with Rev. S. G. Adams, who is full of facts regarding Utah and of zeal in religious work, the journey of thirty-seven miles was made from Salt Lake City north to Ogden. Ogden is a railway and manufacturing town ; it has an elevation of over four thousand feet, and a population of thirty thousand persons. It gives employment to a great number of men, it being the location of the shops of five leading trunk lines. It is beautifully situated on the west slope of the Wasatch Mountains. Its wide, well-paved, and pleasantly shaded streets are lighted with elec- tricity. Pure water abounds; and the people, like those of many other sections, affirm that there is no better climate in the United States. Rev. Dwight Spencer was largely instrumental in the building of the ornate Baptist church in 15 i6 AROUND TIIK WORLD Ogdeii ; and here, Rev. Richard Hartley, now so much esteemed as the pastor of the Hope Church, New York, was once the pastor. He and his wife are still appreciatively remembered. The present pastor, Rev. L. L. Crandall, is doin;licst point reached by the Southern Pacific Railway from Oj^den to San Francisco. The road follows from Reno the course of the Truckce River. Towering rocks, foaming rivers, and pine-clad mountains attract, delight, and inspire the traveler. Truckce stands at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada — the snowy saw, as the words mean — mountains. This is truly an Alpine village. Lumber is the leading industry. A fellow-traveler tells us that he can remember when there was a dense forest where now the village stands. Up we climb. We are now seven thousand feet above the sea. Here are lakes Tahoe, Donner, Webber, and Independence. Donner Lake is made mem- orable because thirty-four of the Donner party died of .starvation on its shores in the year 1846. Bierstadt has made the beauty of this lake, high up among the Sierras, familiar by his paintings. Here are great mountain peaks : Mount Ralston, nine thousand one hundred and forty feet ; Mount Tallac, nine thousand seven hundred and fifteen feet ; Pyramid Peak, ten thousand fifty-two, and Job's Peak, ten thousand six hundred and thirty-seven. For forty miles there is an almost constant line of snow sheds to protect the road during winter travel. These sheds very unpleasantly interrupt the view, but they are a necessary evil. We experienced cold weather, and were glad to have the steam turned on to make the cars com- fortable. The contrast between this cold and OGDKN TO SAN KRANCISCO 19 3 y D O c s. IC IS 5e ;e /e :f, 11- ty .6. 111, nt en id nt g ly il. o 11- id the licat in New York on Snnday, Jnne 3, was certainly very marked. Two j;reat enj^ines draj^<;ed the train upward, while we could ^et {glimpses of Donner Lake j^leaniin^ir like a dia- mond in its setting of j^ranite. A panorama of pine-clad hills and of splintered mountain i)eaks stretched around us. Soon we reached the sum- mit, which for many years rij^htly claimed the honor of bein<^ the highest railway point in our country. This is the "divide," whence flow streams by many courses until they unite in the Sacramento. San Francisco. — Going through Colfax and Sacramento in the night, we reached Oakland in the morning, and were .soon in San Franci.sco. It was with no little emotion that the first view of the bay was taken. We all know that San Franci-sco Bay ranks as one of the great harbors of the world. It is a land-locked .sheet of water about fifty miles long. Its .shipments are great, and it lies at the terminus of several transconti- nental routes. The fir.st view of San Francisco from the deck of the ferryboat is charming. It is truly a city set on a hill. It is the most hilly city I have ever .seen. It cannot but command attention ; it is almost equally .sure to elicit ad- miration. The older houses are florid in their architecture ; the newer buildings, such as the Mills Building and the Y. M. C. A., are plainer, and so in much better taste. The fires which have swept the city have improved it greatly, but there is still work for fire to do in destroy- inj;- the uti.si<;litly wooden 1)ll^l(Hn^^s which re- main. How cool are tlic trade v.'nds ! To one jnst from New York they were a l)enedietion. An overcoat was necessary for comfort. By tlic time these winds j;et inland they lose their coolness, bnt at the city they are a canse for constant ^ratitnde. Several squares are worthy of con- sideration. On Portsmouth Scjuare, on July 8, 1846, Captain Montj^omery, of the United States Sloop-of-war Portsmouth, then lying in the bay, at the connnand of Commodore Sloat, raised the American flag. This square was then known as the "Verba Huena"; it is now Portsmouth Square, San Francisco. A salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth ainionnced the fact that the United States had taken possession of Northern California. Montgomery Street was named in honor of the captain. In 1849 a signal station was established on Telegraph Hill to give notice of the approach of vessels. Under the guidance of Pastor Hobart, of Oak- land, a visit was made to the Cliff House and the Seal Rocks. Mayor Stitro, whose name is fa- miliar all over the country, here has his home. The diploniacy by which he compelled the rail- way comprsiy to carry passengers for five instead of fifteen cents is well known in the East. From what is known as Inspiration Point a fine view is obtained of the Pacific Ocean and of the Golden Gate. The Seal Rocks and their strange occupants are deeply interesting. Three conical rocks rise from twenty to fifty feet, and on these OC.I)J;n To SAN I'RANCISCO 21 rocks often scores of these marine nianinials, l)askinj; in the sun or tuniblinj^^ into tlie sea, may be seen. These seals seem to l)e quite tame ; they are protected by law, and they seem to be aware that their safety is assured. A Trip to Oakland. — Pastors Hill and ITobart, of Oakland, honored the visitor with a call at the Palace Hotel, San PVancisco, and ar- ran<^ed for a trip to Oakland, and a mcetinj^ with the pastors of the two cities. Oakland is called the "(iarden City." It is situated on the east shore of San Francisco Bay, and it slopes down to the waters from the mountains which rise back of the city. It gets its name from a j^rovc of evergreen oaks in which originally it was built. Wealthy merchants of Oakland and San PVancisco have beautiful villas on the foothills, and some of their homes will rank with the finest homes in the suburbs of New York. In- deed, Oakland is destined to become one of the most beautiful residence cities of the West. One can reach Oakland from San Francisco every fifteen minutes. Under the chaperonage of the two excellent pastors named, a visit was made to California; College, at Highland Park, Oakland. At the college Dr. Samuel B. ]\Iorse, president and pro- fessor of mental and moral philosophy, met us, and courteously showed us over the buildings and part of the grounds. A good beginning has been made here for an enlarged work. The location is superb. It is two hundred feet above 22 AROUND Tim WORLD the bay, and overlooks the city of Oakland and commands a view of San Francisco Bay, reaching from the Golden Ciate to San Jose. The campus contains twelve acres, beautifully set with trees and shrubbery. The " Mary Stuart Hall " is commodious and attractive. On the second floor is the Rockefeller Library. The Gray mansion was erected in 1888 by Baptist women in California, and a year later the " Hook Memorial " as a dining hall and dormitory. There is the beginning of a cabinet and museum. The cost of board and tuition is very reasonable, and every opportunity of acquiring knowledge will be afforded those who are seeking an education under Baptist auspices. Not far distant, at Berkeley, is the University of California. This is a State institution. It is an integral part, perhaps we might say the climax, of the public educational system of the State. The United States and private donors have united with California in furnishing facili- ties for instruction in literature, in science, law, medicine, dentistry, pharmacy, and art. The opportunities of instruction are open to all who are properly qualified, without distinction of sex. Here is a great institution of learning, thoroughly equipped in all respects with libraries, museums, buildings, grounds, faculties of instruction, and, in a word, a mr dern outfit for giving students the best facilities and the latest results in many de- partments. There are older institutions in the East still better equipped ; but this university is vigorously following their lead. I OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO 23 Seldom are two institutions of learning, the one a struggling denominational college and the other a great State institution, brought into so near neighborhood and so sharp a comparison. What in these conditions is the duty educationally of the various denominations? This is really a very serious and an equally practical question. We may say that these State colleges are non- Christian, or perhaps, in some cases, anti-Chris- tian. But ought we to allow them to remain in that attitude toward Christ and the church? Ought we not to rescue them from their hos- tility or indifference ? Can we not do it ? What right have Christian teachers and pastors to re- main^ indifferent to the atmosphere and instruc- tion in State colleges ? Ought not our boys and girls to have the best education which they can procure ? Will they not need in the warfare of life the best possible outfit ? Must their denomi- national loyalty subject them to educational dis- advantages? Is It true denominational loyalty to accept such disadvantages? These are im- portant questions. They are not asked with any desire to depreciate the work done in California College ; they are merely suggested by the visit to those two schools of learning. Might we not often do the greatest possible service to Christ and the church by putting into these great State schools as professors, men distinguished by learn- ing, by ability to teach, by personal magnetism, by social attractiveness, and by earnest Christian character and denominational loyalty? Where could men of these characteristics find a grander 24 AROUND THE WORLD field? They might give at certain times each week lectures on Christian evidences and de- nominational doctrines. Such men would soon leaven these institutions with evangelical and Christian doctrine and with a knowledge of and regard for the distinctive principles of different denominations. This matter is surely worthy the thought of our ablest leaders. A Glimpse of '* Chinatown." — A Christian man or woman does not care to see the seamy and dark side of life, except so far as the sight may stimulate desire and effort to impro\ '^ the condition of our sinful and sorrowiug fellow- creatures. With this desire this visit was made. Pastor Hobart and two other gentlemen, of whom one was a federal officer and the other a mu- nicipal officer, the former at least being also an earnest Christian worker, were the guides on this visit. Our Home Mission Chinese church is a veritable oasis in this fearful moral desert. We there .saw a little company earnestly engaged in the study of the Bible. The leader was giving an exposition of Scripture, and his Chinese hear- ers were following liim, pencil in hand, and with much sympathy and interest. The joss-house was visited ; so were opium dens and other abodes of sin and varied forms of indescribable wretch- edness. Such sights, such odors, such sins ! One visit is enough for a lifetime. The sight of the sinful and miserable women would move the hardest heart. One wonders that life is possible in such a fetid and poisonous atmosphere. It is OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO 25 said that one poison nentralizes another, and that one vile odor acts as a disinfectant of other vile odors. Never did the work of onr Home Mission Society seem to be more needed ; never did It appear to be so beneficent as in the con- trasts seen in these vile purlieus. A Meeting oe Brethren.— Throuo-h the courtesy of Rev. Messrs. Hill and Hobart an op- portunity was given at Oakland to meet many of the pastors of that citv and of San Francisco. The meeting was held in one of the parlors of the Y. M. C. A. Rev. H. L. Dictz, a German pastor in San Francisco, presided. Rev. Doctor Abbott, known and loved East and West, made the address of welcome. The visitor then spoke at length, and prayer was offered by Doctor Morse. This tender prayer gave great comfort to a traveler with many weary miles before him and so many dear friends left behind him. It would be pleasant to iixention the names of all who were present did space permit. Their fra- ternal courtesy was much appreciated, and their kind words were an inspiration and a benedic- tion. The world is small after all, and one finds former friendb everywhere, and also evidences that his work in one part of the field sends out some helpful influences to brothers working at remote points in their own varied spheres. Our cause in these two cities, and throughout Cali- fornia, is advancing. The brethren are taking heart ; they see brighter days in the near future; indeed, these brighter days have already dawned.' F 26 AROUND THE WORLD The night has now reached its noon. Bags must be packed, and the last preparations made for sailing on the morrow. The real journey around the world will then begin. Then, for a time, farewell to family, church, and country, and welcome to the deep, blue Pacific, and to lands in and beyond the Pacific. ide ley r a to III SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU TT was with equal surprise and pleasure, on ± coming into the Palace Hotel, that a note was received from Mrs. M. E. Field, of the Cal- vary Church, New York, statin- that she was at the Grand Hotel, and was to sail the next morn- ing on the "Australia," bound for Honolulu Her surprise was equally great, and perhaps her pleasure not less, when her pastor called on her tne next morning and informed her that he also was to sail on the same steamer. She was with a party of friends from Los Angeles, California, who had planned to spend a month among the tairy-hke islands which compose the " Paradise of the Pacific." We were soon all on board, and at lo A. M., Saturday, June 15, 1895, M^e sailed out on our journey of six days for those historic and now quite famous islands. One passenger at least bade a long good-bye to America for his journey of months over broad seas and conti- nents. He now realized that he was really off for his around-the-world trip, though until now that realization had not fully come. Soon we passed through the narrow strait, known to all the world as the "Golden Gate'' It IS impossible not to have serious reflections at 27 r 28 AROUND THE WORI^D such a time. What perils and experiences may be before the traveler? When will home and church be seen again? Such thoughts would come, however brave and trustful one might strive to be ; but committing to Him who holds the waters in the hollow of his hand all who are dearest, we pushed out into the broad and blue Pacific. Compared with the Atlantic this sea doubtless deserves its name. It has been called " a lazy, lolling, good-natured sea," but as we entered upon it, it was far from being good-natured and lazy. It was angry, wild, and fierce. Some passengers could not forget the recent fate of the ill-starred " Colimo," and they were nervous and troubled to no small degree. The " Australia " has the name of being a bad "roller," and on this occasion she fully justified her bad reputation. She rolled constantly, and frequently the waves dashed over her decks. It was necessary to have all the chairs lashed firmly in order that passen- gers could keep their seats. In some cases it was also necessary to pass a rope in front of those who were seated to which they might cling to make their safety assured. An ominous silence reigned throughout the ship. The tables were well-nigh deserted ; and the passengers slipped off quietly to their cabins. A very small meal fully satisfied this writer, and that was eaten on deck ; but every other meal was taken at the table. When Sunday morning came silence still reigned over the empty decks and in the deserted saloon. There was no service of any SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU 29 kind, although there were three clergymen on board. But after about twenty-four hours had passed the sea became calm, and passengers who had not been seen since the first hour of our journey began to emerge from Lhtlr cabins. The Pacific now began to justify its name. Another day passed and the great ocean became smooth as a sea of glass, and of a lovely sapphirine blue. No other sea is of such a beautiful color. It is widely different from the Atlantic. The Atlantic IS gray, wrinkled, crabbed; the Pacific, in its normal condition, is serene, blue, and sublimely tranquil. The Passengers.— There were sixty in the cabin. Among them was our omniscient friend. Rev. Joseph Cook, ix. d., who was to make his second trip around the world. Thirteen years be- fore this he made the trip, lecturing in Australia, in India, and in other countries ; he now proposed to revisit these countries. Possiblv he would spend considerable time in Japan. All students of current history must be interested in the new Japan which is now challenging the attention of the civilized world. It has been said that Doc- tor Cook's mission is to oil the wheels of the universe ; this writer's humble but useful office on this trip was to turn the faucet and let the lubricating- fluid flow. Perhaps there are a few questions which we did not fully settle ; but the number which we did not discuss, and in our opinion partially settle, is very small. Doctor ■i W^MMMMWAUM&aii 30 AROUND TIIK WORI,D Cook has a unique mission ; and nobly does lie perform its duties. lie has stood firmly for the harmony between science and religion ; and he has been a stout advocate of a conservative and yet progressive theology. Boston has honored liini, and he has honored Poston. He was to give several lectures in Honolulu, and to be the guest of Chief Justice Judd, who was his class- mate at Yale College. Rev. Dr. Pease was returning to his mission field on the Marshall Islands, and the " Morning Star " was waiting in Honolulu to carry him to his field. There were also other missionary workers, both men and women, who were p-oing to various fields. There were also students from Princeton, Yale, Harvard, and other colleges, who were returning to their homes in Honolulu. There was a party of teachers from San Fran- cisco, among them a young lady who received as a prize for popularity the tickets for the round trip. There was also the party from Los An- geles, of which Mrs. Field was one ; and there were musicians on their way to Australia on a professional tour. We had a diversified and altogether an interesting company. It was quite different in many ways from the groups one meets on board of the leading Atlantic liners. i. Nearing the Isi^ands. — Day after day passed as we plow^ed our way through this glorious sea. Expectation was on tiptoe as we were near- ing the Hawaiian Islands. There was a wonder- ful charm in being far out on this pacific sea ; Vo SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU 31 the stars never seemed so bright, the breezes never so soft and alhiring. Stirrinj^^ were our emotions when we first saw the " Southern Cross," and tender our gratitude, as on the morn- ing of the sixth day we got our first glimpse of Molokai. This island is widely known as the abode of the wretched lepers, who unfortunately are too numerous on these islands. All the morning the soft breezes kissed our cheeks. The air soon became laden with odors of tropical fruits and flowers, and birds of many kinds came out to greet and welcome us. It seemed as if we were nearing a veritable paradise as we approached Honolulu. We had read much of this picturesque and delightful land, but our realizations soon far surpassed our anticipations. Some one has expressed this wish : Oh, had we some bright little isle of our own, In the blue summer ocean, far off alone. Well, the United States will, we believe, soon have this wish realized here in these tropical regions. We are all watching for the island toward which we are making. Yonder is Dia- mond Head rising grandly from the sea ; it is a great extinct volcano. Other rocks are quickly seen, but they promise us nothing of the vernal vales which we know lie beyond. But the mo- ment the ship rounds the point of the famous headland, the fairy-like coast is revealed. Here are great rocks browned by the bronze of the lava which centuries ago flowed down their sides ; here is a beach of dazzling whiteness ; 32 AROUND TlIIv WORLD here arc j^roves of cocoa palms, and everywhere is tlic {glorious sea, like a huge emerald, as it reflects the tints from its coral bottom. Thus we approach Honolulu. The scene changes. The mountains become gloriously green ; vistas of Eden open to our gaze. The sea rolls in its long and alluring waves upon the reef. Within the reef the water is tranquil ; it is a tideless river. There lies the town. Were ever before such tints seen in any water? To what shall they be compared? They look as if one of the glorious rainbows so common in this tropical region had been wrecked, and all its fragments were lying strewn on this glorious sea. Never had we seen such colors on water. We may never see them surpassed. It was a foretaste of the sea of glass. Our students are wild with delight as their friends rush up the gang-plank. Look at these groups of Hawaiian boys in the water. They are great masculine — decidedly masculine — water- nymphs. They are out for the opportunity to dive for nickels which the passengers may toss into the water. Nickels are thrown. The boys dash for them, swimming, struggling, diving. Up they come with the nickels in their mouths. Other nickels are thrown, and the process is re- peated until the ship is docked. Yes, this is Honolulu. See the groups of native Hawaiians, barefooted boys and girls and men. See the women dressed in their "mother-hubbards." The missionary women taught their mothers to wear this dress in exchange for the garments SAN FRANCISCO TO II0NOL,ULU 33 to toss :)ovs 'llicr. i vvliicli Mother Nature j;avc. Now tlicsc dresses have become a feature iu the life of these islauds. Observe the counuiugliuj^ of races — Chiuese, Japanese, Portuguese, native Hawaiiaus, Ger- man, British, and American. We quickly pass the customs and soon are on our way to the hotel. It is PViday noon, June twenty-fnst. Balmy is the air ; soft and sweet is every breath. We are told that it would be equally balmy if we were landing in January instead of June. The long-cherished hope has reached fruition ; we are among the Hawaiian Islands. In Honolulu. — No sooner is our room se- cured than we are out to see the strange city. It is unique ; it fascinates. This writer comes, as he supposes, as a stranger. But a Honolulu welcome is an experience not soon to be for- gotten. Such cordiality cannot l)e surpassed. That evening calls were received from Rev. Douglass Putnam Birnie, pastor of the Central Union Church ; from Rev. T. D. Garvin, pastor of the Christian Church ; and on Saturday from Doctors Hyde and Bingham, and Mrs. Coan, the widow of the distinguished Dr. Titus Coan. Saturday a long drive was taken with Mr. Gar- vin through the palm-shaded streets and among the tropical charms of the fields, and past the beautiful homes of wealth. Then came dinner at the home of ]\Tr. Bir- nie. Mr. Birnie was a student in the Union Theological Seminary, New York. He came here a few months ago from Boston. His posi- c r i: V ■ I h 34 AkOlJNl) THK WORM) tion here is difficult and corrcspondinj^ly influ- ential. His church is nominally ii union church ; it is really a Conj^rej^ational church. In it have been and are members of Ha])tist and several other churches ; but now the difTerent denomi- nations are beginnings to organize, and soon there will be many churches. Mrs. Hirnie is a New York lady, and is .socially and religiously a true helpmeet to her husband in his responsi- ble position. The pastor of this church needs to be wise as a serpent, harmless as a dove, and yet aggressive as a lion. Most interesting was it at table to eat for the first *ime the /arOy which enters in many forms so largely into the food, both of V native and adopted Hawaiians. After dinne drove to the closing entertainment of the Kamehameha school for girls. It is not surprising that the Hawaiians who were in a New York church some time ago smiled at the pastor's pronuncia- tion of that word ; he can pronounce it more correctly now. Deeply interesting was it to reflect, as one listened to the recitations, essays, and other exercises of these girls, that two gene- rations ago their fathers and motliers were naked savages. Here is a proof of the value of missions. There is now on the part of certain classes here criticism of the missionaries ; but let it be remem- bered that they, with God's help, have trans- formed this land. They have made parts once a desert, and marked l3y the mirage, literally blossom as the rose. Saturday was a busy and delightful day. 'i 1 i ;1 SAN l-KANCISCO TO HONOLULU 35 A HuSY vSuNHAV. — Can one j^ct away from work ? A Cliristian luaii in j^ood lualtli ouj^ljt not to jj^ct away from work. Trnc rest is in cluinj^e of work and scene and not in indolence. »Snnd;iy, Jnne twenty-tiiird, was especially bnsy. One mij^lit fdl colnmns with an acconnt of the day's work and the historic associations which it su«i^j^este(l ; but here there is room for only brief mention. Under the jrnidancc of Rev. (). 1*. Ivmerson, corresponding^ secretary of the Ha- waiian Hoard, whose knowledge of all that ])er- tains to these islands is encyclopedic, a visit at lo A. M. was made to the Sunday-school of the Kawaihao Church. This building was erected in 1839. It represents the very heart of the religious work here. It is intimately associated witli the honored names of Bingham, Armstrong, Clarke, and Parker. Hon. W. R. Castle, just appointed minister to Washington, is the stiperin- tendent of the school. As we arrived he was en- tering on his duties for the morning. Here Rev. Sereno E. Bishop, the author of tlie recent arti- cles on Hawaii in the " Independent," was met ; also Rev. J. Kawlaune, a veteran legislator and once a pastor ; also the wife of Rev. J. K. Josepa, a man who stood lieroically against the corrup- tions of the royalist period. Back of the church is the modest burial place of such missionary heroes as Armstrong, Castle, Cooke, and other fathers of the eariy days. Then we hasten to the Chinese Sunday-school. This mission was founded by Mr. Damon. It is now under the charge of his son, Mr, F. W. 1^( fV 36 AROUND THE WORLD Damon, whose brother, Hon. S. M. Damon, is minister of finance. Here is the first Chinese Younji; Men's Christian Association of the world. It is most interesting to see how God widens the field of missionary labors. These missionaries came to labor for native Hawaiians, and now God has sent to this field tlionsands of Chinese, Japanese, and Portngnese. Next we drove to the Japanese mission. This work was begun in 1888. The Lyceum was generously given to the work by the Waterhouse family. Then we passed Queen Kmma Hall, where Mrs. Coleman started free kindergarten schools. We next visited 'he native Hawaiian church, called the Kaumakapili, built by the missionary. Rev. Lowell Smith, who for many years was the pastor. IMrs. B. Y. Dillingham was the super- intendent of the school. Mr. Emerson was the interpreter of the brief address which this writer gave here. Then we hastened to the Central Union Church, wliere the writer preached, the pastor. Rev. D. P. Biruie, leading in the worship This chr.rcli was recently built at a cost of one bun- dled and twenty-five thousand dollars; it is entirely out of debt. One can find few more intelligent and delightful congregations. Grad- uates of many of our leading American colleges are found in the audience. Here President Dole, Chief Justice Judd, senators, representa- tives, and many others prominent in the political, social, and business life of these islands, worship. This has been called the " court " church. Great SAN FRANCISCO TO HOMOMJI.U 2>7 HI, IS iiiese ^orld. IS the laries now inese, ve to iin in in to m we eman next d the Rev. IS the super- is the writer nion )astor, This hun- it is more Grad- Icges ident senta- care is needed at this critical time that all the affairs of the church be wisely managed in their relations to the government on the one side, and to the opposing elements on the other. From this church go the money, the brain, and the management of much of the missionary work in all the Hawaiian Islands. In the afternoon we visited the Portuguese school. Tliis school delighted the heart, but we have not sufficient space to speak of it at length. Then we drove to the Lunalilo Home, which was founded l)y King Lunalilo as a home for asred and destitute Hawaiians. Here another brief address was made, and Mr. Emerson agani acted as interpreter. On our way back we took a look at the hospital. About a year ago Rev. T. D. Garvin came from California to Honolulu. He found that there was need of a church of the Disciples. Soon it was organized, taking simply the name Christian Church. He has worked heroically and success- fully. Already a goodly n.anber have been bap- tized. A good work is going forward among the Japanese, and several pror«inent white men of various nationalities have confessed Christ and been baptized. Worship is held in what is known as Harmony Hall. Seldom has the writer more enjoyed preaching than lie did here on this Sun- day evening. The rooms were quite full and the attention was close and the spirit of the service most tender. At the close of the service the Hon. and Mrs. Albert S. Willis were met. Mr. Willis is envoy extraordinary and minister plen- I'' 11'; 38 AROUND TIIK WORLD ipotentiary of the United States of America — such is the full title — to this Republic. They were present at the morning service also. Mr. Willis belongs to the Christian Church. He enjoys the confidence and esteem of all classes here, alike for his worth as a man and for his wisdom as American minister. Sunday was a busy day ; Monday is scarcely less so. The "Australia" goes back this after- noon to San Francisco, and all mail matter must scon be on board. No one is lonely in this lovely land. This is lotus-land indeed ; here Tennyson might have located his lotus-eaters. Friends are met constantly. '• How do you do? I heard you four weeks ago in your own pulpit." Another says, "I heard your last sermon in Boston last summer"; another, "I knew you by your picture in the ' Christian Elerald.' " To-morrow we start for our visit to the volcano. This journey will take a week ; then back for the " glorious Fourth"; then a lecture for the Young Men's Christian Association, and other addresses. It/ I 11 ii I I I IV VISITING THE VOLCANO \17E left Honolulu on Tuesday, June 25 u^- ^n ^n,' ^'^ """ ^''^^^^ ^^^e ^^"le steamer Kinau The trip is toward the windward islands of the group, and of these Hawaii, with Its fountain of everlasting fire, is the largest. The island of Hawaii gives its name to the en- tire group. Prof. James D. Dana, whose recent death has caused genuine sorrow, not only in the United States, but tliroughout the world, visited this island in 1841, and a second time in 1887 He made a careful study of the volcanoes here, as also those of the rest of the world. To him the world owes much for his careful investigations and his admirable descriptions. The passengers from Honolulu to Hilo were a strangely assorted company. In the steerage were Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, and native Hawaiian men, women, and children. They ay about promiscuously among their bags and bundles. When seasick they were bo^h an ainusing and a pitiable assortment of humanity. Ihere was also an interesting company of boys and girls from the Kamehameha schools, from Oahu College, and from still other institutions of learning in Honolulu. These young people 39 ■I 40 AROUND THE WORLD were of all shades of color, and of as many r? ^ ; one was a prince from Ponape, one of the Caro- line Islands. Althongh not of Hawaiian blood, an exception was made in his case, and he was admitted into a school intended especially for tlie children of the native Hawaiians. A most interesting passenger is a gentleman who bears the na?ne of a distinguished family in Kentucky, Rev. Stephen h. Desha. This is a well-known Kentucky name, and the name has a remarkable history in connection with this worthy gentleman. There is a story of a wild life in Kentucky and elsewhere in the "States"; then a grave crime was suspected ; a duel was fought ; then a hasty flight ; then a long silence. Then an American married a Hawaiian woman on the island of Maui. Several ciJldren were born ; the eldest was Stephen. When he was but fourteen his father died ; but the boy was educated in missionary schools, was early con- verted, and in due time was ordained as a preacher among the natives. His second pastorate was at Hilo (pronounce the vowels after the continental method) where he was greatly honored for his worth and work. He is fair-haired and light of complexion and has blue eyes. He laughingly says that the natives always speak of him as having a cat's eyes. He married a Hawaiian woman. She is now dead, but there are four children ; two of them quite dark, two compar- atively light. He had been to Honolulu to at- tend the meeting of the Hawaiian Board of Mis- sions ; he then remained two weeks to bring his ■I .1 VISITING THE VOI.CANO 41 1) and other children home from their schools. It was interesting, and a little pathetic, to see this noble man with his " dusky " and motherless children. He is a great power in all these islands. His use of Hrglish is reasonably good, and he often acts as an interpreter and always as a mediator between the native Hawaiians and the Americans. His children constantly spoke English, and sang college songs familiar in all American schools and colleges. He fears that his children will entirely forget their mother and their mother's tongue. He was an agreeable companion, and his information regarding the islands, their strange history, and their wild tra- ditions, was as useful as it was interesting. The wife of the Rev. C. W. Hill, of Hilo, was another passenger, and she also was returning from the meeting of the Hawaiian Board. Her husband is pastor of the Foreign Hilo Church, that is, the church made up of all who are not Hawaiians, and including Americans, Scotch, English, and others who have found a home in Hilo. There were also native Hawaiians in the first cabin, some of whom were said to be stout royalists, and so not in sympathy with the re- public ; but they were submissive in their obe- dience and very cautious in their speech. Mr. Eugene Koop, of New York, who had been a fellow-passenger on the "Australia" from San Francisco, was the writer's cabin mate. There were Americans on their way to sugar planta- tions and to other places of industry in Hawaii. There was also with us Miss Carter, of Hon- 42 AROUND THE WORLD \U t: \ olnlu, the sister of the late Hon. Charles L. Carter, who visited Washington in the interests of the islands, and who was shot during the re- cent rebellion. His death saddened the people of all shades of political opinion. He was a bril- liant young man, and he left a wife and two young children. Miss Carter is the niece of Chief Justice Judd, and is an enthusiastic Ha- waiian. Although she has traveled in many countries she always returns with glowing pa- triotism to her island home. MoLOKAi. — Soon after leaving Honolulu we entered the channel between the islands of Oahu and Molokai, where the water was rough and many passengers became ill. The " Kinau " is no doubt a great improvement on her predeces- sor, the "lyike Like," whose passengers mostly camped out on deck ; the " Kinau " has state- rooms and reasonable comforts. But it now rolled and pitched, and pitched and rolled, until there was an absence of passengers from the decks, and silence reigned throughout the ship. Before evening we passed Molokai, the mysteri- ous home of the exiled lepers. Leprosy abounds in these islands, about one out of every hundred natives being so afflicted. The disease is closely associated with other diseases, and especially with one other on which the curse of God pecu- liarly rests. The visits of sailors from many countries and for several generations, and the violation of moral laws incident to these visits, together with poor living and many forms of r. I j i ,1 I VISITING THK VOLCANO 43 IS |aiiy the nts, of violation of sanitary laws, will account for the prevalence of this fearful disease. It seems now to be a taint in the Hawaiian blood. It is re- ceiving the most careful study of medical experts in all parts of the world ; tliere is a hospital in Honolulu in which experiments are constantly made. The disease is closely watched, and the Board of Health will leave no method of cure untried. But few Ano;lo-Saxons have been at- tacked, the victims being^ mostly Hawaiians, Portuguese, and natives of different islands in the Pacific; and the victims are, for the most part, those whose violations of sanitary and moral laws made them susceptible to almost any foul disease. The Protestant people of Honolulu — especially those of the missionary circles — have done much for the lepers ; they have built homes and furnished nurses and religious workers. The Romanists have done the minimum of labor, but have reaped the maximum of honor. They claim, and doubtless justly, the majority of the victims. The newspapers at the time of Father Damien's death gave broad hints as to his life and the manner in which it was believed that he had contracted the disease ; these hints are emphatically repeated here. No one wishes to detract from the l^onor due to the Roman Church for her work here, but neither ought any one to fail to give honor to Protestants, to whose liber- ality this place of refuge is so largely indebted, and who to-day furnish noble nurses and pastors to live with and labor for the victims of this fearful disease. \\ 44 AROTJND THK WORLD i,. Othp:r Islands. — We pass near Maui, Lanai, and Kahoolavve. At Laliaina on Maui we drop anchor. This village has been described as "a little slice of civilization beached on the shore of barbarism." It is a drowsy and dreamy village, with only one street, and that one with but one side, for the sloping sands of the sea form its lower edge. There are houses overhung with green trees and with hammocks invitingly swung in the verandas. It is truly a tropical scene which this quaint village presents. Once it was a favorite resort of the Kamehamehas, whose name is associated with all that is most heroic in the history of these seagirt isles. I have found a poem on Lahaina, from which a few character- istic lines are selected : ; ! Where the new-comer In deathless summer Dreams away troubles ; When the grape blossoms And blows its sweet bubbles ; Where from the long leaves The fresh dew is shaken ; Where the wind sleeps And where the birds waken. The next morning we are at Maalaea and soon at Makena. Yonder, far above, is Ulupalakua, " ripe bread-fruit for the gods." It rises two thou- sand feet above us, and its cool air comes down to temper the heat of the tropical sun. Here is Kawaihae, — the spelling begins to be less diffi- cult, — with the ruins of the great stone temple. li 'I VISITING TIIK VOLCANO 45 or ^''/iciau^'''' to the j^^ods which once stood on the shore. Every spot is sn^j^cstive of the great bat- tles of the Kamehaniehns, and Mr. Desha repeats the stirring traditions of the wild days in the remote past. Near here is a great cattle ranch owned by an American named IMorris, and near here are also some large sngar plantations. At Kealakekna, on the west coast of Hawaii, Cap- tain Cook was killed by the natives in 1779, and there a monument has been erected to him. The place is interesting also geologically on account of the great cliffs which face the sea. At different places in the vicinity we discharge freight and livestock, the latter being literally dropped into the sea. At one place, tliere being no docks at any of these landings, a rope was connected with the ship and worked by a donkey- engine on the shore, and mules were pushed into the sea, falling with a great splash. On coming up they struggled to get into the boat which the rope was hauling to the shore, but the sailors firmly held their heads, the rope was rapidly pulled and the boats with the mules, swimming and splashing, was speedily dragged to the shore. Perhaps they were more frightened than hurt, but they certainly were very much frightened and the entire process seemed very cruel. Hawaii. — At Kawaihae we first touched the island of Hawaii. This island is nearly trian- gular ; its greatest length from north to south is ninety-three miles, and its extreme width is eighty miles. Its mountain slopes, as a rule, are 46 AKOUND TlIK VVONM) 1^ < ' ofcntle ; it has five volcanic niouiitains, and is marked by an almost entire al)sence of rivers, except on the north and northeast slopes. The side of the island as we api)n)aeh liilo is a series of magnificent precipices ; sometimes they over- \mn<^ the sea ; sometimes they are perpendicular. One's gaze is fascinated by this remarkable coast- line as the boat advances. We soon reach, as the evening of the second day comes on, the glorions valley of Waipio. Between green and lofty heights are verdant valleys. In a distance of abont sixty miles there are ninety-two ravines, and in each ravine there is a torrent rnshing down to the sea. Some of these torrents are snperb cascades, one of them making a leap of eleven thonsand seven hundred feet from the clouds and falling into a forest of bread-fruit trees. After every heavy shower these streams leap over the rocks and fall into the deep valley. One traveler speaks of this region as a veritable realization of the dream of the lotus-eaters as given by Tennyson : '1 In the afternoon they came unto a land, In which it seemed always afternoon. All round the coast the languid air did swoon, Breathing like one that hath a weary dream. f\ill-faced above the valley stood the moon ; And like a downward smoke, the slender stream Along the cliff to fall and pause and fall did seem. ' I • A land of streams ! Some, like a downward smoke, Slow-dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go ; And some thro' wavering lights and shadows broke, Rolling a slumbrous sheet of foam below. ; VISITING TIIK VOLCANO 47 IS Ike. he. They saw the gleaming' river seaward tlow From the inner land : far off, three mountain-tops, Three silent pinnacles of aged snow. Stood sunset-llushed : and, dew' d with showery drops, Up-clomb the shadowy pine above the woven topse. In the main this description is accnrate ; it wonld seem as if it had been written for this phice. Near here tlie boat stopped, and in the darkness, tossing abont in the landinj;^ boat, a lady with nnrse and baby left ns. She with her baby in her arms was to ride a horse for two hours over the gulches to her home. She left ns joyfully ; indeed, the fate which one should en- counter would have to be fearful not to be better than tossing^ about on our lioat as she lay here in the trough of the waves. Arriving at H11.0. — We try to hold our- selves in our berths by pressinjj;^ our knees on one side and our backs on the other as we voyage on to Hilo, our port of destination. The boat is advertised to make the trip in twenty-four hours, but it took us thirty-six. The boats are espe- cially intended to carry freig^ht, and they often wait long- to load and to unload. At 2 A. M. we were aroused. This was Hilo. Down the sway- ing- ladder we descended and into the dancing boat we jum])cd or fell. It is abominable that there is no wharf at the second largest place on the Hawaiian Islands. It is no easy matter to be very amiable at 2 A. M. in these circumstances. Up another swaying ladder we climbed, then into a carriage for the hotel. There was no one .ill l' I 48 AROUND TIIK WOULD to receive tis. We tried a door; it opened. We entered; it was a l)edrooni, — ^ood. We tried anotiier door ; it opened ; another l)edrooin, — j^ood aji^ain. We took i)ossession, went to bed, and soon were asleep. At seven we were np, and at eij^lit we were in the lumbering stage-coach for the Volcano House. Thh Cratkr ok Kilauka. — Until recently the trip from Hilo to the crater of Kilauea was a horseback ride of thirty miles, but now there is a reasonably good road the entire distance. It was made and is kept in repair by the political and other prisoners. Through the straggling town of Hilo we drive ; then past acres of sugar plantations ; then through other acres of coflee fields. Slowly we climbed. Wonderful was the luxuriance of this tropical forest. Great va- rieties of tropical trees were on each hand, and parasitical plants of many kinds clustered in rank growths around the trees. In four jiours we reached tl • Half-way House, where luncheon was served and the horses were changed. The round-trip tickets include all expenses until we return to Honolulu. This house was kept by a young man who once lived near Chicago. Could anything be more lonely than his life now ? We passed huts of a few feet square in which natives lived. Then we reached tasteful and really pretty homes in a clearing. The head of the house came out for his mail. Sometimes he was a Portuguese, but usually he was an Ameri- can. See his ornate grounds, the rich tropical ' i^ i\ VISITINd Tm- VOLCANO ^9 plants with their ;;rcat leaves and bri<;ht colors. Sec also his tree-fern walks, — a soft, dry, and comparatively durable walk, — his neat fences and {^•ates. He has a little coffee patch near the cottage, and, within, an American wife with her children. It was all very stranj^^e ; it seemed almost a dream. See the joy of these men as they ^ct the foreij^n mail, a mail from the "States." How much these letters mean ! How much this local paper from the old home and the other papers from the j^^reat city! Up we climb; the seats are ^ettinj^ hard and our backs tired. But here we are at the Volcano House. It is a ji^ood hotel, and is under the direction of the steamship company. We are on the brink of the crater of Kilauea. We have cliin])ed four thousand four hundred and forty feet above the sea level since ei^ht o'clock this morning. The air is very bracinj^^ and cool. Overcoats while riding- were comfortable. We notice fires in the office and parlor of the hotel on this Thursday, June 27, in this island of the Pacific below the Tropic of Cancer, a wonderful chan^^-e in the air since we left Hilo. It is no wonder that the people come up here from all parts of the coun- try for coolness and rest. Some of our party are to return with the first sta^e-coach of the morn- ing-, so we hasten to visit the crater. Let us stand and look about us before we descend. Yonder is Mauna Kea, thirteen thousand eight hundred and five feet high, crowned with snow, Kea meaning white. Here is Mauna Loa, thir- teen thousand six hundred and seventy-five feet, I) i«ively seen. •I' > \ ■ 11 :\ « I ( u ,1 * i V ' ' ' I. HII.O AND THE ISLANDS RETURN TO HILO.— On Saturday morn- ing-, June 29, throug'li the courtesy of Dr. (Miss) Frances Wetmore, who studied medicine in Philadelphia, and who now practises in Hilo, the return to Hilo was made in her carriage, drawn by fleet ponies. This was a welcome change from the rough stage-coach. It also gave an additional day at the crater and an opportunity for a carriage ride in the vicinity. Hilo ranks next in size to Honolulu, the popula- tion of the town being three tliousand and that of the disrrict above five thousand. Its houses ace half hidden among palms and bread-fruit trees. Rain falls here with great frequency, and the entire appearance of the place is tropical to an unusual degree. Perhaps it is the most beau- tiful of Hawaiian hamlets. A crescent row of houses faces the shore. It is said that many of the people have little else to do than To watch the crisping ripples on the beach, The tender curving lines of creamy spray. On the way we had the opportunity of exam- ining specimens of breadfruit, mango, guava, banana, papaya, palm, tree-fern, rubber tree, the 52 i I ■ t) K\ HlhO AND THP: islands 53 1. ; indig^o plant, bamboo, and still other productions of this luxuriant tropical climate. Dr. Wetmore was born on the island, and has been a careful student of botany as well as of medicine. Almost in.imediately upon our arrival, through the courtesy of Rev. C. W. Hill and Rev. Stephen Desha, horses were provided, and, accompanied by these excellent friends, we visited the Rain- bo *r Waterfall, saw the flume in which the sugar- cane is quickly borne by water to the mills, and the three hills which once were craters, and then we galloped off to Cocoanut Island. What a fine dash we made with our ponies as we reached the hard sand on the crescent beach ! Did we race ? Wf^ll, we soon reached the island. It is just across the bay from Plilo, and it is a gem of beauty. Its Hawaiian name is Mokuola, a name which means "island of health or life." This name was given it because of a rock which was suppo.sed to be possessed of health-giving proper- ties. The superstition was, and perhaps is, that any one who was ill would be immediately he: led by swimming three times imder water around this ''ock. Some natives come even now and make ti.. trial, expecting to be cured of various diseases. Tradition savs that Kalaniku- pule, the last king of Oahu, came to this island, slew the king\s warriors, and bore away his daughter to become his bride. We saw also the great luva fields of Hilo. In 1880 Manna Loa sent onat rbr nine months a river of redhot lava which flowed toward Hilo and the sea. Its progress wa^ slow, but it pushed 11 r. .} ■ i .i.n ',f 1 / l< 54 AROUND THE WORLD forward. Visitors came in g^reat inimbers and camped near. The air qnivered, the forests blazed, the dreadful river flowed toward the town. Hilo was in terrible danger, and the people lived in awful suspense, ready at a mo- ment's notice to leave their homes. The ignorant and superstitious believe that the town was saved through the intercession of the late Princess Ruth Keelikolani, who made a pilgrimage to the lava stream and paid propitiatory offerings by sacrificing swine to Pele, the goddess of the volcano. The stream suddenly ceased to flow after having made a devastating track of nearly fifty miles. Sunday in Hilo. — Hilo is a restful place, nway from the noisy world. Its chief event is the weekly arrival from Honolulu of the steamer, with news of the outer world. But some men get rest in work. It was arranged before going to the volcano that the writer should preach in Hilo on vSnnday, June 30. Why not preach? It is a joy to fxalt Christ and to be of any help to men. At quarter past ten a short address was delivered in the Portuguese Sunday-school, the pastor, Rev. R. K. Baptiste, translating. At half past ten aii^aher address in the old native Hawaiian Church, the pastor. Rev. Stephen L. Desha, being interpreter. This is the old church in which the honored and nuw sainted "P'ather" Titus Coan preached. This ground is h'^toric. Near the church came the natives, two generations ago, to a great grass ,ii: as le L. HILO AND THP: ISLANDS 55 tabernacle, to ^ive up their idols, to hear the gos- pel, and to receive Christ. They remained a month at a time in a feast of tabernacles. A continuous revival, such as has never been seen since Pentecost, except in tlie Baptist mission among the Telugus, was enjoyed. Thousands confessed Christ. "F'ather" Coan would often preach nearly all day. To the natives he often seemed more of a deity than a man. He and "Father" Lyman sleep in the cemetery near the church. His widow, the second IVIrs. Coan, lives in Honolulu. The stories of his preaching tours read like the records of another Apostle Paul. Death and emigration have reduced the popula- tion, but Mr. Desha ministers to a noble com- pany of natives in this church. At eleven the service began in the " foreign " church ; here Americans, Scotchmen, — who are very successful business men here, — and other English-speaking Christians worship. About a year ago Mr. Hill became the pastor, coming from California to take up the work. He holds services in the afternoon at a ranch some dis- tance out of the town. In the evening the four churches, Portuguese, Hawaiian, Japanese, and English-speaking, met in "Father" Coan's old church and the writer spoke at considerable length, his remarks being translated the next Sunday by Pastors Baptiste and Desha, and the Japanese pastor, to their respective peoples. The singing of a choir of native Hawaiian boys was truly fine. The Hawaiians are naturally musical. It was not an idle Sunday, but a happy one. l! r I 'i\\ ]i 56 AROUND THE WORLD Mv I' . ' f i ■ I ■I ' •1 I / 1 )M \ ! 1 t Hi , I I i 1 It was a great pleasure to meet at the service and elsewhere Rev. Charles H. Wetmore, M, d., the father of Dr. Frances Wetmore. He came from New London, Conn., and Mrs. Wetmore from the Berkshire region, in 1849. ^^ ^^^^ done noble service here for both body and soul. He has made a careful study of the flowers, the trees, and the fish in Hawaiian waters, and in all these matters he is recognized as a high author- ity. On Monday morning we hastened to the sugar mill of Mr. C. C. Kennedy, one of the successful Scotchmen of whom mention was made. We saw the whole process of sugar making, from the crushing of the cane to the perfected product. Mr. Kennedy has discovered methods of greatly reducing labor and materially saving wastage. He is as active as a Christian as he is enterpris- ing and successful as a business man. So great was the company on the dock to say "good-bye" that one almost felt as if he were leaving home. A more hospitable people than one meets here can be met nowhere, it is safe to say. I shall not readily forget the good-bye of the Hawaiian pastor, Rev. J. S. Kalanaw, who was the associate pastor with "Father" Coan. He kissed my hand again and again as we parted. The trip back to Honolulu was marked by the usual rolling and pitching of the "Kinau " amid these channels. The steamship company ought to do better for its passengers. It is abominable that they should be constantly aroused by the lowering and raising of the anchor ; but the cli- M \^ lllhO AND THE ISLANDS 57 max was reached when a lot of squealing swine were put on board, making night hideous with their porcine music. We are hastening to Hon- olulu to keep there the "glorious Fourth," for which great preparations are being made, and hoping to catch on our arrival a mail steamei for Victoria. Regarding the island of Hawaii, as we leave it we may almost say in " Howard Glendon's " exaggerated words : I go ; but I have had At least a little while in Paradise, With all my heart anear my eyes, And this shall make me glad. .v« 1(1 'I he id ht .le jie li- Sensitive Points. — It is no easy matter to avoid "snags" in preaching, or in delivering any public address in Honolulu. This fact Dr. Joseph Cook learned to his sorrow in making his Fourth of July speech. In almost any audi- ence are found Britons, Germans, native Ha- waiians, American-Hawaiians, and nati\e Amer- icans. The Hawaiians, native and American, are decided royalists or equally decided repub- licans ; and the native resident or visiting Amer- icans, are either decided American Democrats or equally decided American Republicans. Of sev- eral of these classes, some are and some are not annexationists. Seldom does a man speak any- where when so much self-control, self-poise, en- tire fair-mindedness, and occasional reticence are necessary. Honolulu is in this respect a very cosmopolitan city ; but in some other respects it possesses many of the qualities of village life. :| ■ I- l« «! ■a ■f t • I I • I i I'f ■ 1 , 58 AROUND THE WORLD Tlie English-Speaking population is relatively small, and what one knows all are likely soon to know. When mingling in social and religions circles a great degree of self-restraint in speech and action is an absolute necessity. I have met Hawaiians, nctlive -ind American, who are stout royalists. The feeling on all the points involved is deep and sensitive. I have seen American- Hawaiian women turn their backs on Amcrican- Hawaiians who had spoken or written against the deposed queen. On the other hand, I have seen Hawaiian republicans look askance on those known to be in sympathy with the de- feated royalists. Revolutions seem to be the normal condition of tropical republics; rumors of uprisings against the republic are in all the newspapers and in many conversations. One man said: "I have al- ready been through several revolutions of greater or less magnitude, and I am prepared for another should it come at any moment." The ex-queen is not without supporters and even admirers. Some of this class are turbulent spirits who have noth'.ng to lose, and perhaps something to gain, by a revolution ; some are men who are willing to do anything except honest work ; some are men who fed royally at the public crib in the old days and who are now outside the breastworks ; some are men who love imperialism and hate all forms of republicanism ; some of the women who are supporters of the ex-queen were her school- mates in the early days and cherish for her no little affection ; and some, both men and Nil HII,0 AND TIIK ISLANDS 59 nd women, honestly believe that she was j^reatly wronged, anrl they now desire to see her restored to the palace and the throne. Those who oppose her believe that her title to the throne was always In doubt, and that her alliance with the opium and lottery rings, her insane attempt to overthrow the Liberal Constitution which she had solemnly sworn to uphold, and many ele- ments in her character, show that she was utterly unfit to rule. They believe that her effort to clothe herself with absolute power made her guilty of treason. They also affirm that the pure and unmixed Hawaiians are not capable of ruling these islands. These natives are kind, amiable, easy-going, laughter-loving children of nature. The question is. Who shall rule these islands? Shall they be ruled by the fourteen thousand five hundred Chinese, or by the twenty thousand Japanese, or by the eight thousand five hundred Portuguese, mostly ignorant Catholics, unable to read or write in any language, or by the English- speaking people, numbering in all about ten thousand? That was the problem before the people on July 4, 1894. It w^as a very serious problem, and to its solution the best men of Hawaii gave their ripest thought. The Repub- lic of Hawaii was the result ; and it must be admitted that, taking all the conditions into account, the constitution shows statesmanship of a high order. In some respects it is an improve- ment on that of the United States. It limits the suffrage for representatives to all male citi- ■V ''1 ' >»■ f ■r 1 'I A ,( ' f 1! \M •t , ) >r : '^ ! I / ' ( ! I 60 AROUND TIIK WORI.U zens of twenty years, " who can fluently speak, read, and write tlic Rnj^lisli or Hawaiian lan- jruaf(e"; and voters for senators ninst in addition to this edncational qnalification, have a money income of six hnndred dollars, or possess real estate in Hawaii worth fifteen hnndred dollars, or personal property worth three thonsand dol- lars. There are string^ent provisions reg-arding the natnralization of foreigners, so that no large nnniber of Asiatics can speedily become citizen- ized. Men of very high character are in the govern- ment. President Dole is a native of Hawaii, the son of honored missionaries ; next, perhaps, in influence in shaping policies is Hon. Lorrin Thnrston, who v s premier in the reform gov- ernment nnder i e monarchy, an able lawyer and an experienced diplomat ; and it is necessary only to mention the names of Samuel M. Damon, minister of finance ; W. O Smith, attorney general ; F. M. Hatch, minister of foreign affairs ; J. A. King, an Englishman, minister of the inte- rior, and Chief Justice Judd, son of the noble missionary physician, Dr. G. P. Judd, to show the character of the men who are at the head of affairs in this island republic. President Dole enjoys the confidence and esteem of all the people alike for his worthy character and his recognized ability. Annexation is the hope of these men, but they are not anxious to hasten unduly this consummation. They wish to make this republic more and more worthy of union with the greater republic. Let us give them our ill I HiLo ANn Tin-: islands 6i ite- ble ow of lolc be lis of en ke on iir sympathy and confidence, anti lei iis liope and pray that the canse of (lod and man may he greatly prospered on these interesting and historic Hawaiian IsUmds. Tins AND That. — Thci'- arc twelve islands which make the gronp known as the Hawaiian Islands. Fonr are simply barren locks. Of the remaining ei<;ht, the fonr larj^cr ones — Hawaii, Mani, Oahu, and Kanai — are ao^ricnltnral and pastoral, and Molokai, Lanai, Niihan and Ka- hoolawe are given np almost entirely to pasturage. The Hawaiian language has only twelve let- ters, and each syllable ends in a vowel. The alphabet begins with the vowels, a, (\ /, fl, ?/. The only consonants are /', /, w, //, and /. There is a gently aspirated // and the vocalic iv. The language is very musical. The native people live usually in frame houses ; the Japanese occasionally in grass or fern houses. All the people dress in American or European garments. Many white women, for a part of the day at least, as well as the natives, wear the holoka^ or " mother-hubbard" gown ; it is worn without a belt. Natives now are rarely seen only half-clad. The birds' nest fern is very noticeable on the way from the Volcano House to Hilo. It is found far up in the highest trees, and is often larger than a bushel basket. The gold currency is United States coin. The only paper currency of the islands is government treasury notes of ten, twenty, fifty, one hundred, 1 1 I < o i i*'^ '1 f .1 62 AROUND TIIK VVOUI.I) .' V and five hinidrcd dollars. The smallest silver coin is ten cents, bnt American five-cent pieces are taken everywhere. Japanese women, barefooted, with their loose j>[arments, and each with a child on her back, are freqnently seen. Hawaiian, American, and other women ride their liorses astride. Those who wish to be nu fait wear the gorgconsly colored pau. This is really a beautifnl ridinj^ habit, but many wear their ordinary dress and yet ride astride. The Hawaiian Islands are of volcanic origin. Coral reef formations are found on parts of nearly all the islands, but they do not encircle any. La Perouse, Vancouver, and other noted voyagers have visited these isles. The people were and are amiable and kind ; they were waiting to re- ceive Christianity. Mosquitoes are here in two varieties, one for the day and one for the night. When the day mosquito retires on his laurels the night mosquito comes forth for conflict. Honolulu is as bad as New Jersey in this respect, but it is positively affirmed that in the primitive days there were no mosquitoes here, and that they were introduced in 1826 from Mexico by the ship Wellington. Cockroaches also were imported, and in 1836 the centipede. Truly the Hawaiian Islands were a paradise before the many and varied " vices of civilization " were introduced. The Hawaiian Islands were named the Sand- wich Islands by Captain Cook, in honor of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, then First Lord \\ / IIII.O AND THH ISLANDS 63 a of id- lis rd of the Admiralty. The natives, however, always called them ''•JlaiCaii mi par ^//;//i'," a collect- ive term meauinj^ '* these Hawaiian Islands. arly from »» 1 .•qnidistant America, Mexico, California, the northeast coast, on the one side, and the Ru.ssian domain, Japan, China, and the Philippine Islands on the other. This pin-point repnblic is a fnlcrnm by which all the leading nations of the world may be moved. Among the monntainson the island of Hawaii wild dogs are still fonnd. Once wild goats were there by thousands, and the natives derived a good income from their skins, but the dogs have destroyed the goats. They have also been the enemy of the slieep ranches, but now a vigorous fight against the dogs is greatly reducing their numbers. Wild hogs are still found, and an ex- perienced hunter said that he would rather meet a wild bull than a wild boar. The cloud effects all over the islands are won- derful. The moisture, the tradewinds, and the bright sunshine combine to produce these beau- tiful pictures. Honolulu is a city of telephones. It is jok- ingly said that the women ask " Central " •whether their bonnets are on straight. Near Hilo are still seen the stones on which human beings were offered in sacrifice. The Hawaiian Band is an attraction at Hono- lulu. It was established by the Hon. J. O. Domi- nis, the husband of the ex-queen. Its musical skill is largely due to Mr. H. Berger, who was sent 'f 1 'fi B^ .'I ». ■is. r t) ■ ( I ^ \ ' ' 'i 64 AROUND THK WORLD here by the Prussian Government in 1872, at the request of King Kalakaua. Professor Berger left during our visit to rejoin his old regiment ; he is expected to return to Honohihi. Old Punch Bowl is a sort of domesticated crater just back of the town. The clouds are often pierced by the jagged rocks, the sierras or saws, behind the city, and they give forth their rain very frequently. These showeis have been poetically called " liquid sunshine." The island of Maui has been aptly called the " Switzerland of the Hawaiian Islands," and Kauai the "Garden Isle." Its so-called "bark- ing sands," because of the curious sound which they give forth when trodden on, are a strange phenomenon. The myna/i is an impertinent bird whose strange noises are not conducive to comfort. The general growing of coffee is the revival of an early industry which promises great re- sults in the near future. The algcroha tree bears pods which are food for horses. It is also a living wood-pile, giving a great degree of heat. Beggars are rarely seen on the islands ; where Protestantism is dominant, poverty is rare. There are absolutely no snakes on the Ha- waiian Islands. A man was recently caught by the government officials trying to bring in snakes, but he was obliged to destroy them. There are, however, some scorpions. •■ \ I I \\ r 1^. •'.!T- VI HONOLULU AGAIN 's: la- We have had enouf-'h of action, and of motion we, RoU'd to starboard, roU'd to larboard, when the surge was seething free, Where the wallowing monster spouted hl3 foam-fountains in the sea. Let us swear an oath, and keep it with an equal mind, In the hollow Lotus-land to live and lie reclined On the hills like gods together, careless of mankind. NOTHING could better express our feelinjj^s on our return to Honolulu after our trip to the volcano than the first of these stanzas. We would not like to make the second stan?:a our creed, although on these Hawaiian Islands it has more appropriateness than in any other place we have ever visited. rHR loLANi Palace. — One of the notable places in Honolulu is the lolani Palace, as it was formerly called, but which under the republic is known as the Executive Buildiuf^, It was completed in 1883 at a cost of three hundred and forty thousand dollars. The interior is fitted up on a grand scale, being finished in kow and /'f?^? woods, native woods which are highly esteemed. This building was the palace of the K 65 w ki 4'' 1 ' I'- , : li ; i { 1 1 ^ 1 1 ,, 66 AROUND THE WORLD deposed Queen Liliiiokalani (pronounced Lee- lee-wo-ka-la-nee), who succeeded her brother, Kalakaua (Ka-la-kau-a), as sovereign of Hawaii. In one corner of this buildinj^ the deposed queen is confined as a political prisoner (1895). She si ill enjoys many privileocs ; slie has her maids to wait upon her ; she has beautiful rooms in which to live, and she is at liberty to walk in a certain portion of the grounds, but of this privi- lege she does not often take advantage. The writer chanced to see her. In his igno- rance he walked out on the veranda in front of lier rooms. Some of her maids were seen at the window ; a few more steps were taken and she was seen. She did not seem to regard the stranger's presence as an intrusion, and a glance of salutation was exchanged. Just then the guard appeared and reminded the visitor that this part of the building was not open to the public. Appropriate apology was offered, and the walk was continued in another direction. In this accidental way a desired object was ac- complished, and certainly no harm was done. As is to be expected, the ex-queen has grown rapidly older-looking in these recent years. She has among Americans and American-Hawaiians here some hearty admirers and supporters. All, in some sense, pity her. They believe that she is the victim of a bad system of past government, of bad advisers, and of defective moral character. There is a general impression that she will at no very distant day receive some kind of a par- don and so be granted fuller liberty. She is, to ! I f \\k HONOLULU AGAIN 67 the 1( :liaracter in the hi t, an interestin^^ tory of our times. In a room in the lower part of this building the lef^islature meets. It is now in session. The speaker is a native Hawaiian and the pro- ceedings are in both languages, all remarks being translated with wonderful quickness and skill by Mr. Willcox ; but the necessity of making these translations greatly delays the proceedings. The senate meets in a chamber on the floor above. Both bodies are small, and the proceed- ings suggest the work of committees rather than the deliberations of houses of lesfislation. Presi- dent Dole and other officials have rooms in this building. Strange thoughts must come into the mind of the ex-queen as she watches those who visit the building and learns of the deliberations in what was once her palace. Opposite this former palace is what until lately was the (Tovernment Building. Now it is known as the Judiciary Building. It is a concrete structure of considerable architectural merit. It contains various department offices, and the su- preme court and judicial chambers. Chief Jus- tice Judd, whom it was our pleasure to meet several times, was presiding on the occasion of our visit. In front of this building stands an imposing bronze statue of Kamehameha the Great, in feather helmet and robes of state. It is said that the likeness to the founder of the Hawaiian monarchy is perfect. He is called the Napoleon of the islands. His conquests were numerous, his bravery heroic, and liis success i V .1 :l /, 1/ 68 AROUND THE WORLD .')f complete. The reliefs on the side of the statue represent some of his great victories. His name is one to conjnre with in all the islands which he conqnered and over which he rnled. On the occasion of onr visit the helmet and robes were resplendent in a new coating of gold leaf. It is the policy of the government to do honor to this hero's memory, and so to minister to the natnral pride of the native Hawaiians. This great king chose Honolulu, meaning " the sheltered slope," as the seat of his govern- ment, and his skill discovered a channel through the reef into this bay, which is really the only good harbor on the group of islands. He en- couraged ships to visit this harbor ; indeed, it is said that before the harbor was surveyed he went out with his great double canoe and towed visit- ing ships inside the reef, and was thus the first pilot into the harbor of Honolulu, as he was the greatest chieftain of the Hawaiian race. Buildings, Schools id Parks. — The opera house, near the Judiciary Building, was recently destroyed by fire and has not yet been rebuilt. The Queen's Hospital, built in i860, in honor of Queen Emma, by Kamehameha IV., is out a short distance from the buildings just named. The Avenue of Palms, leading up to the en- trance, will at once attract the attention of the visitor. Lunalilo Home was founded by King IvUnalilo for aged and destitute Hawaiians. Not far from it is Oahu College, whose commence- ment was celebrated a few days ago. This insti- li' It. lie ti- ^ONQ^.V^y AGA^N 69 I' i tution was fomuled as a place of education for the children of missionaries, but its work has ji;reatly widened. It now inclndcs in its teaching all classes who can avail themselves of its in- struction. It prepares young men for Yale, Har- vard, and other colleges. This is a college community. Probably there is not a city of the size of its English-speaking population in the United States which has so many young men in colleges as Honolulu. The whole city was stirred up recently when about fifteen students returned on one ship to spend their vacation at their island home. The influ- ence of the missionaries has created among their sons, grandsons, and others, a taste for the high- est education of the times. I have enjoyed ex- cellent opportunities, under the guidance of Dr. C. ]\I. Hyde, who is an authority on all educa- tional, as well as policical and other matters here, of visiting the Kamehameha schools. Tliese schools are on the west side and at a Httle dis- tance from the center of the city. They were founded imder the will of Mrs. Bernice Pawahi Bishop, who was the heiress of the late Prin- cess Ruth, the sister of Kamehameha V. The schools are richly endowed and admirably con- ducted. The appearance, deportment, and ability of the young men and women, whose parents two generations ago were naked savages, are a re- markable testimo'iy to the value of missionary work and to the power of ChrisLian truth. In addition to the regular course of Instruction, training is given to Hawaiian boys and girls in (1 u i 1! i • iir' ( I tn 70 AROUND TIIIC WORM) useful trades. These school biiildini^s are per- fectly adapted architecturally to a climate in which no fires are necessary for comfort, and they are snperbly eqnipped with teachers of hi<^h ^rade. The money for their snpport is the o;ift of the nnited lives of an American man and a Hawaiian woman. Of the Bishop Mnsenni 1 shall speak later. Waikiki is about three miles from the city and is beautifully situated on the beach in the direc- tion of Diamond Head. Street cars connect it with the city. Kapiolani Park is a part of Wai- kiki. A picnic excursion with friends of the Cliristian Church to this beach was very enjoy- able. The bathing- is excellent, the shore being of pure white sand and Ihe water never too cold for comfort. This stanza, from a poem on Wai- kiki by Rollin M. Daggett, will scarcely be called an exaggeration by any one who has spent an afternoon at this cool, quiet, and poetic place : O Waikiki ! O scene of peace ! O home of beauty and of dreams ! No haven in the isles of (jreece Can chord the harp to sweeter themes ; For houris haunt the broad lanais, While scented zephyrs cool the lea, And, looking down from sunset skies, The angels smile on Waikiki. The waves beat in rhythmic regularity on the shining sands of this beach, and the vine-clad porches furnish needed shade. Here is the spot for the lover of the (/o/cc far nicntc in these sea- i'" n IIONOI.UI.U AGAIN 71 m , girt isles. Excursion by rail to Pearl Harbor is one of the attractions for visitors to Honolulu. But perhaps no attraction surpasses a visit to the Pali, mcaninor "precipice," in the Nunanu Valley, nieanino;-, 'Hhe valley of the cool ascent." There is a good road from the city to the Pali, six miles distant. By the courtesy of Rev. and Mrs. Birnie the trip was made as their cruest. The road passes among the villas in this charm- ing valley ; it crosses bridges where sudden freshets often rush from the mountain to the sea ; passes gardens which resemble Japanese landscapes ; passes great jungles of cacti and bamboo ; passes the home of Chief Justice Judd and that which belonged to hi^ noble father ; passes gray-walled cemeteries, in one of which is the royal mausoleum where the Kamehamehas are buried, among them the late Princess Keeli- kolani, the last of the line ; and here also are buried Queen Emma, and Princess Eikelike. We also passed Chinese tea-houses, tare patches, plantations of bananas, and the summer homes of Messrs. Cook, Atherton, and Eowry. The visit to the home of the last is among the pleasant memories of this excursion. On the way we passed the crumbling walls of the summer home of a forgotten king who ruled in the early days of royalty in these islands. We rode almost to the Pali, then a short walk brought us to the summit. What a scene then burst upon our view! At our feet the pathway leads to the edge, and we look downward -with wondei and delight, A i I I ll >; i 'if' . I., 'I .u' I !<' ' ' );:. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / O z ^ rf> 1.0 I.I 1^ 12.2 1 1: lis IIIIIZO 1.8 '•25 1.4 1.6 « 6" ► V] Va •% ^^v^' %.>^ <^ '^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '<> 'I H^i} Ji ■!;.f; 76 AROUND THE WORLD Bedford. Nearly one hundred years ago this North Pacific was visited by American whale- ships ; and from these island ports agile Kanaka boys were shipped, and some of tliem found their way to schools in our Eastern States. In 1 8 19 the immortal band of American mis- sionaries came to Hawaii, imbued with a truly apostolic spirit, scholarly and consecrated. They have given shape to the political, intellectual, and moral life of these islands. Other Amer- icans came and their children have intermarried. They have become, in many instances, successful in business, and have beautiful homes. Intelli- gence, character, and capacity must always win the battle of life as against ignorance, incapacity, and immorality. So long as these laws obtain, men of this character will succeed ; and their success seems to be the front of their offending in the judgment of some harsh critics. There is room on these islands for half a mil- lion intelligent, industrictis, and enterprising Americans. All our Protestant churches will yet be established here; commerce will flourish and industries will be multiplied when this gem of the Pacific shall have become a possession of the United States, as it certainly will in some form before five years shall pass.* That day is coming, and with its coming will come also sta- bility, peace, and prosperity, and manifold other blessings to the great American Republic. 'This prophecy has since been fulfilled. "For better or for worse" the destinies of the two republics have become allied. True optimism will discern only the *' better " for both. i,n i U' VII HAWAIIAN HISTORY MUCH has already been said in these chap- ters regarding these islands ; but it seems fitting that the facts from their discovery to the present time should be condensed into a single chapter. These islands have been making his- tory very rapidly within the past few years. Not only have they occupied a prominent place be- cause of their own history, but they are likely also to have a place of importance in inter- national history. It is quite certain, as already suggested, that before many years this gem of the Pacific will be a star in the American flag, or a Territory under our control, until properly fitted for Statehood. These considerations justify us in giving fuller attention to the past develop- ment, present position, and possible future of this interesting group of islands. Thk Native Race.-— What is tht origin of the Hawaiian people? In answer to that ques- tion, some writers afiirm that they are related to the Toltec branch of the great Nahoa family of Mexico. Points of similarity physiologically are emphasized in proof of the claim of this relation- ship. If this relationship can be proved, the Ha- 77 . '« 78 AROUND THE WORLD waiians would be the oldest Polynesian colony, and from it the other nienibers of the family vvonld liave branched ont. Another theory makes all the Pacific islands to have been colonized by successive mij^^rations from southern Asia. Th " theory makes the Malay Archipelago the s*^arting point of the migrations of the Hawaiians, the New Zealanders, the Samoans, Tongans, and other related tribes. I\Iany traditions, customs, and linguistic similarities support this theory. We know that the Hawaiian Islands \vere dis- covered in 1542 by a Spanish navigator named Gaetano. In 1567 another Spanish discoverer, Mendana, located some of the islands in the Ha- waiian group. But it is believed that as early as 1527 a Spanish vessel was wrecked on the coast of Hawaii. The survivors of the wreck inter- married with the natives, and it is affirmed that their descendants are still known by their light color and their Caucasian facial contour ; they also have a tendency to "freckle." They are known among the Hawaiians by a special name, Kckca. Captain Cook visited these islands on January 18, 1778. He sailed for the American coast, and returned to these islands November 20, of the same year. On his return he met Kamehameha I., who was then a young man, and he remained for a considerable time, enjoy- ing the unbounded hospitality of the natives, but finally in a quarrel provoked by his own imwis- dom and that of his men, he was killed at Keala- kekua Bay, on February 14, 1779. When the Hawaiians were first discovered an (;' I HAWAIIAN HISTORY 79 elaborate feudal system was their form of j^overn- ment. Each tribe was led by its own chief and, after much fighting among the tribal chiefs, the islands at the time of Captain Cook's discovery were under the rule of five or six kings. A rea- sonable degree of civilization had l)cen reached. The authority of the kings, liowever, was abso- lute. They were regarded in some sense as deities. Tlie common people were oppressed by their rulers and were virtuallv slaves to the chiefs who gave them protection. In 1790 Ka- mehamcha ruled over a part of the island of Hawaii. He was then attacked by Keoua, who ruled over the remaining portion of the island. Kamehameha defeated this king, and soon ex- tended his reign over the entire island. The flames of his ambition were fanned by this suc- cess, r.nd he soon formed the purpose of conquer- ing neighboring islands. This purpose he car- ried out until all the islands but two, Kauai and Nuhau, were under his control, and by a treaty with the king of these islands they also came into his possession. The visit of Vancouv^er was made to these islands in 1792. His influence was both great and good. He gave the people instruction regarding God and spiritual things. He strove to settle on peaceful terms disputes between factions, and in every way sought the highest good of all the people. Upon the death of Kamehameha after his long and successful reign, his son, Liholiho, became his successor, taking the title of Kamehameha U. He with remarkable boldness and wisdom overthrew the ! i 80 AROUND TIIK WORIV.) ,'J ..1 'I 'Ays^r taboo system which for centuries had exercised great power over all the people. Foreign Influence. — The cruelty of the heathen system of religion was deeply felt, and the whole country was ready to receive the gos- pel when the missionaries arrived, April 4, 1820. Their success, with the assistance of Rev. Mr. Ellis, in reducing the Hawaiian language to writing was very marked. The first printing was done in 1822. In 1823 the king and the queen visited England, and there they both died. The premier became regent and ruled for nine years until the majority of Kanikeaouli, brother of the late king. In 1825 the Ten Command- ments were adopted by the government as a part of the law of the island. Roman Catholic mis- sionaries arrived in 1827. ^^^ ^^39 Commander I^aplace, of a French frigate, obtained civil and religious privileges for tlie Romanists. In 1833 the late king's brother became ruler inider .he name of Kamehameha III. In 1840 the consti- tution granting civil rights to the people was promulgated. For a little time the islands were under the provisional control of Great Britain, and in 1849 there was a temporary occupation of Honolulu by the French. Kamehameha III. died December 15, 1854 ; he was succeeded by Alexander I^iholiho as Kamehameha IV. He died Novembei 30, 1863, having been married to Emma Naea, the adopted daughter of Doctor Rooke. Lot Kamehameha, brotlier of the late king, succeeded him as Kamehameha V. The . 1< HAWAIIAN HISTORY 8l chief characteristic of liis reign was the abroga- tion of the national constitntion and the limita- tion of the suffrage by a property qualification. During his reign Honolulu was beautified with public buildings. His death occurred December II, 1872, and with his death the old and famous Kaniehameha dynasty became extinct. He was succeeded by Lunalilo, a high chief, who was unanimously elected by the people as king. His rule lasted only one year, but it was noted for his introduction of measures for the intro- duction of liberal principles, for the effort to secure commercial reciprocity with the United States, and the cession of the Pearl River La- goon. He died February 4, 1874, and on the twelfth of the same month Kalakaua was elected king by the legislature against the determined opposition of Queen-dowager Emma. A riot occurred between her supporters and those of Kalakaua, and American warships were neces- sary to quell the disturbance and to restore peace. In 1875 the reciprocity treaty was negotiated with the United States, under whose terms sugar was admitted to the United States free of duty. This treaty stimulated the production of sugar to so great a degree that the dutv remitted on Hawaiian sugar reached five million dollars a year. A very large amount of American capital flowed into the Hawaiian Islands. The owners of plantations now supplied themselves with labor on the contract system, importing Chinese and Japanese coolies and also Portuguese laborers from the Azores and Madeira. The estates now hi \ ! -4 '!< : J 82 AKOUNn TIIK WORLD became joint-stock coinj)anies. Hctwccii 1876 and 1887, thirty-six thousand coolies, nearly twenty-four thousand of whom were Chinese, were brought into the islands. Rkactions. — The influx of this heathen cle- ment <>;reatly retauled the progress oi' "Christianity on the islands. The king was prob.ibly c.lways at heart a heathen. The influence of his court was toward evil and that continually. There was a revival of the power of the kahuna^ or sorcerer. The ban from the sale of liquor was removed, and the whole country was under the influences of the worst elements of the Inila dance, and a spirit of race hatred permeated native society. The Kanakas found themselves driven from the plantations and their former employments into the towns by the Chinese, Japanese, and Portuguese, who ui)on the con- clusion of their contracts on the plantations then came to the towns and began various forms of business. The Kanaka is a light-hearted, easy- going, self-indulgent creature, and the indus- trious Chinese and Japanese soon pushed him to the wall. The American Board withdrew the American missionaries too soon, and the native pastors could not stand against the tide of evil influences which flowed in upon the island. A native political party was organized. The cry was, " Hawaii for the Hawaiians ! " Politi- cal intriguers, made up of disgraced politicians and native malcontents, arrayed themselves against the missionary party and against all the HAWAIIAN IIISTOKV «3 lus- to the Live better elcmcrts of tlic comiiiunitv. Kalakaua was in sympathy with tliis rcvohitionary and reactionary movement. In 1S83 this native party had a m ijority in the assemi)ly. The in- ihience of tlie missionaries was bitterly antaj^o- ni/ed. Tlie k'lu^ elected an American, VV. M. Ciibson, as premier and three natives as mendjers of the cabinet. White renejrades were fonnd who were ready for any movement which wonld brinjr themselves position and power. In 1H87 the best American element, joined by the better class of natives and foreij^ners, marched to the paiace and demanded that Kalakana shonld ap- point a prime minister of their choice and shonld proclaim a new constitution. The kinj^ wisely sidjmitted to these revolutionists. The kinj;- thus lost many of the royal prerogatives of the curlier day and the ministers were made responsi- ble to the legislature. In 1887 the ri^ht to use Pearl Harbor as a coaling and repair station for vessels was conveyed to the United States. In 1889 it is said that the king and his sister Liliuo- kalani used all their influence to restore the old constitution. Kalakaua died in 1891 and Liliuokalani suc- ceeded to the throne. She was born September 2, 1838, and was married to John O. Dominis, an American who had been governor of Oahu, and who died August 27, 1891. After the death of Dominis, A. vS. Kleghorn, a Scotchman, was governor of Oahu. He is the father of the Princess Kaiulani, who was born October 16, 1875, and who was heiress presumptive to the 1 H 4. ff; 1'.,. f; t ,f. «■ I u l|; 1:1, I' It' 84 AROUND THE WORI^D Hawaiian tliroiic as niece of Liliuokalani. This princess has visited New York and is now in England, where she is receivinjj her edncation. While this writer was in Honolnln in Jnne, I.S95, the government voted this yonng princess a yearly sum for her support. It was not felt that the government was under any legal obliga- tion so to do, but that perhaps there was a moral obligation to that effect. It was argued also that it was a stroke of commendable policy to recon- cile the disaffected natives to the new republic. Kalakaua was unqualifiedly bad in all his relations to the people. He granted, it is said, the exclusive right to a Chinaman to import opium, and received for it the sum of eighty thousand dollars. He immediately granted an- other Chinaman a similar right, receiving from him seventy-five thousand dollars, and left the two Chinese merchants to fight it out at their leisure. He del)auched the suffrage ; he gave the islands a reign of free rum ; he allowed lepers their liberty for a financial consideration. He was utterly and absolutely bad. Liliuokalani is publicly charged with dissoluteness of life and of being under the influence of the kahunas^ although a woman of natural shrew'dness, of good education, and of .some ability in music and literature. The legislature was soon split into factions. One bill licensing a gigantic lottery company was especially obnoxiois to Americans, for they felt that the lottery was demoralizing to Hawaii and also to the United States, as lotteries had I W HAWAIIAN HISTORY «5 been suppressed in the latter eonntry. An effort was again made to revive an opium monopoly. The Americans who opposed these legislative acts had been leaders in the revolution of 1887. They had large property interests in the islands. They brought such pressure to bear upon the queen that she frequently changed her ministers; but, becoming angered, she finally chose a cabi- net that was favorable to the lottery and favor- able also to the restoration of the old constitution. Sharp political and race antagonisms now were created, and all things were ripe for some sud- den movement of serious import. The Rkvolution.— On the fourteenth of January, 1893, the legislature was prorogued, and on that day the queen signed the lottery bill. Minister Stevens, who then represented the United States, denounced her act as hostile to his government. The queen was expected to promulgate on the fourteenth of January a new constitution, which would restore the status which existed previous to 1887. She demanded that her ministers should countersign this con- stitution. A great crowd of the native party was assembled before her palace. The ministers refused to sign the constitution. Lorrin A. Thurston, leader of the reform party, advised that they declare the queen in revolution and the throne vacant. Soon Thurston had eighty men pledged to support by force the cabinet against the queen. The queen addressed the assembled natives, urging them to return to their It ' I' r '('• i , ii ii 1 '4 « ' ; ' I V; V A > r ' I, V 1 h i r ,11 86 AROUND THK WORIJ) homes, and complaining that the ministers had prevented her from promnlj^atin^ tlie constitu- tion which she had promised. Finally a Committee of vSafety was appointed on the afternoon of that day, and this committee decided to depose the (pieen, establish a pro- visional government, and strive for the annexa- tion of the islands to the United States. On the afternoon of January j6, mass meetings were held, both by the supporters and opposers of the government. The Committee of Safety sent a petition to the United States minister begging for protection. He had arrived on the man-of- war " Boston " from another part of the islands. Minister Stevens requested Captain Wiltse, of the "Hoston," to land marines and sailors to protect the United States legation and to secure the safety of American life and property. After- ward the Committee of Safety regretted having asked for the intervention of United States troops, but the troops, one hundred and sixty strong, had already landed. These matters have been the subject of much discussion in the American papers and in the American Congress. EvSTABLiSHMENT OK THK REPUBLIC. — There is space here only to give the barest outline of the proceedings which resulted in the establish- ment, first of a provisional government, and later of a republic in the Hawaiian Islands. The United States minister gave official recognition to representatives o^ the provisional government, and the queen, under protest and impelled by 1'^ HAWAIIAN HISTORY «7 force, as she affirmed, surrendered " until such time as the government of the United States shall . . . reinstate me in the authority which I claim as the constitutional sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands." This aj^reement was ac- cepted by the representatives of the provisional jjovernment and endorsed by Judge Dole, the president of that government. The mission of Commissioner Blount is fa- miliar to all readers. He was appointed as a special Commissioner to Hawaii on the seventh of March, three days after President Cleveland's inauguration. His open instructions from Sec- retary Gresham were dated March ii. He ar- rived at Honolulu March 29. He declined re- ceptions tendered him both by the Hawaiian Patriotic League and the Annexation Club. Sanford Ii. Dole was made president of the provisional government in the proclamation of January 17. Hon. Albert S. Willis, of Ken- tucky, was appointed Minister to Hawaii, Septem- ber 3, to succeed Mr. Blount, and was accepted by President Dole. The feeling in Hawaii was intense at the time, for it was fully believed there that it was the intention of the President of the United States to restore the deposed queen. The republic of the Hawaiian Islands was provisionally established January 13, 1893. It was definitely proclaimed July 4, 1894, and San- ford Ballard Dole, president of the provisional republic, was elected president by the Constitu- tional Convention for the first regular term, « > . Ii I ' i.i In : s It H I if wm h' 4, 88 AROUND THE WORLD i, I •VI i 1 V. 1/ n '< i h I ^1 ending December 31, 1900. The story of the attempt to restore the qneen is long and stirring. On December 19, 1893, the United States Min- ister presented to President Dole a communica- tion informing him and his ministers that they were expected tc relinquish promptly to the deposed queen her constitutional authority by the decision of the President of the United States. On December 23, President Dole, on behalf of the provisional government, refused to accept the proposition of the United States. This refusal was expressed in a very able docu- ment. The right of President Cleveland to control in Hawaiian domestic affairs was vigor- ously denied, and it was asserted that the revo- lution had been accomplished, not by the inter- ference of the United States forces, but "through the representatives of the same public sentiment which had forced the monarchy to its knees in 1887, which suppressed the insurrection in 1889, and which for twenty years has been battling for representative government." There was a time of great anxiety in Honolulu while these nego- tiations were in progress. The provisional government called a con- vention which adopted a constitution, and the government was finally called the Republic of Hawaii. There are many points in this consti- tion which are worthy of our heartiest com^ niendation, and the American Republic might well learn important lessons from this sister icpublic. The following statement from " Ap- pleton's Annual Cyclopaedia," 1894, p. 344, is HAWAIIAN HISTORY 89 ■• ) I worthy of the careful consideration of all Ameri- can citizens: There is a president, elected for six years and not re- ehgible, but no vict'-president. There is a cabinet of four ministers, who are appointed by tiie president with the ap- proval of the Senate, and are responsible for the conduct of their respective departments to the president, who. how- ever, cannot remove one of them without the approval cither of the Senate or of the other three members of the c.ibinet. The cabinet ministers are ^.r ojff.cio members of both houses of the legislature, with the rights, powers, and privileges of elected members, except the right to vote The legislative power is vested in two chambers, a Senate and a House of Representatives. To vote for a member of the House of Representatives a citizen must be a born or a naturalized Hawaiian, able to read, write, and speak Eng- lish or the Hawaiian language with fluency. An alien, to obtain naturalization, must be able to read and write Engl'ish well, must possess property worth two hundred dollars,\nd must renounce all foreign allegiance, and he must come from a country with which Hawaii has a naturalization treaty. This last provision meets the case of Asiatics— the Chinese, who have been able to obtain a large part of the foreign and internal trade, and the Japanese, who also com- pete with Americans and Europeans in agriculture, horti- culture, handicrafts, and trading, and whose government has persistently demanded equal rights in naturalization denization, etc., with the most favored nation. All aliens who have aided and supported the provisional government are entitled to naturalization without further qualifications Electors for senators must possess one thousand five hun- dred dollars worth of real estate, or personal property worth three thousand dollars, or a clear income of six hundred dollars a year. Royalist Revoi.t.— The native party in Ha- waii expected that the United States govern- ment would restore the queen to the Hawaiian „), II' M I w< , ii % ;/ ^.• go AROUND THE WORLD throne. After the provisional jrovcrnment re- fused to yield up its authority, the native party remained quiet to see what President Cleveland would do ; but as soon as the provisional govern- ment took steps for the creation of a permanent government the native party determined to resist. A number of men who had seen military service in Canada and elsewhere, went to Hawaii, and soon there were indications of a possible out- break against the new government. The royal- ist newspapers became bold in their attacks. It became necessary for the government to protest against them, and some of the editors were im- prisoned. In some royalist houses rifles were found. In the election for senators and repre- sentatives the American Union Party captured the votes of the island of Oahu. The late re- public was recognized by the United States gov- ernment, and other powers also soon gave it formal recognition. A vessel during the winter landed four hun- dred rifles near Honolulu, and bands of revolu- tionists, led by Robert W. Wilcox and Captain Sam Nowlein, were discovered preparing for some outbreak. Wilcox had been connected with the attempted revolution of 1889. The government learned where the insurgents were encamped. All was ready for the outbreak. Part of the plan was to destroy the Union Church with dynamite. Charles L. Carter, while in the act of arresting some of the insurgents, was fa- tally shot. The citizens' guard was called out to protect the city while Lieutenant King marched HAWAIIAN HISTORY 91 * 1 with a small body of Union soldiers to meet the insurgents. The rebels were shelled out of their position, a large store of arms was found, and many of the natives gave themselves up, while others in a few days followed their example. Martial law was proclaimed, and many of those who had striven to restore the queen were im- prisoned, among them being several leading citi- zens. The penalties inflicted upon the natives were light, as they were deemed to be largely the victims of half-breeds who were disappointed in not getting the liberal allowances formerly granted them from the public crib. President Dole and those associated with him are men of marked ability and of equal patriotism, which will be fully tested, for troublesome questions have yet to be answered regarding the future of this >oung republic. No doubt Japan longs for possession of these islands, for she needs additional territory. Japan is a very small country for a population of forty millions, which is increasing at the rate of half a million each year. Formosa for a time will sup- ply the need for additional territory, but only for a little time. Great Britain might well desire these islands. They lie on the track of her ships from Vancouver to Australia. Should any nation send a man-of-war into the harbor of Honolulu the government would be obliged at once to surrender. All that the young republic requires to make its success assured is that some strong nation, let us hope it may be the United States, will stretch its mighty hand over those m •1* ' ;» i »i; i » i ) 'V; 92 AROUND THE WORLD islands, protecting them from foreign foes, and securing peace within their own borders. Then the young republic will prove its right to exist, and it will come some day, probably as a Terri- tory, with the hearty consent of all its people, and the cordial welcome of all our people, into the fellowship of the sisterhood of States of the American Republic. I f:\ VIII THE HAWAIIAN FUTURE THE case of the natives is truly pathetic. They are, as has already been said, an amiable, light-hearted, happy-go-lucky people, as delightfully amiable as their climate. They were never cannibals, but were disposed to be very kind to the first white men who came to their beautiful islands. The climate probably tends to make them easy-going and good-na- tured ; it probably takes from them somewhat of enterprise and enthusiasm. It is easy for them to be indifferent to hard work and for some of them to be positi^ ely lazy. Their tailor's bill need not be large ; their food bill may be almost nothing. Under a tree they may lie and pick up breadfruit, bananas, and other fruits with both hands. They grow their iaro and prepare their /w', and eat it with one finger, with two, or with three fingers. They decorate themselves with garlands of flowers, called leis ; some of them elicit your admiration for their graceful pose and their impressive movements. Some of the women walk with a queenly grace combined with a coquettish dash. Some women with mixed blood are really beautiful, are thor- oughly cultured, and are modest and attractive. 93 • fi \ \ \Ia 94 AROUND THE WORLD {/' 31 . 'i. Future of the Natives. — These islands are the most important Polynesian gronp in the North Pacific. Many civilizations have come to these shores. Once a British officer took pos- session of Oahn and established a commission for his government, and once French officers promulgated the laws, dictated treaties, and strove by force of arms to make the Roman Catholic faith the religion of the country. But the independence of the islands was guaranteed by the United States in 1829, and more formally in 1843, ^"^ l^y Great Britain, Belgium, and France in 1844. The language is a branch of the great Malayo-Polynesian tongue. The later history is familiar to most Americans, and the character of the present government is more and more receiving the endorsement of all intelligent Hawaiians. But what is their future? They are dying out. As many as two hun- dred vessels at one time have been in this har- bor, and here sailors often received their wages. Debauchery ran riot ; wickedness of every kind was rampant. Thousands of dollars were spent in saloons, and places of vice flourished. At times a corrupt court sought favor with officers, passengers, and crews, by encouraging the women to minister to vice. Diseases multiplied. Thou- sands of the people have been swept away in a few months by epidemics. The coming of the missionaries checked many of the crimes which led to such dire results; but human nature is still what the Apostle Paul found it, and what all observers still see it to be. n ■ I Mi. THE HAWAIIAN FUTURE 95 )l New danjrcrs threaten the Hawaiians. They are improvident, incapable of prolonged business application, and many of them incapable of in- tellectual training beyond certain moderate limits. The Chinese and Japanese are crowd- ing them out of business, out of the trades, and even out of the most menial labors, crowding them to the wall. Scores of kinds of business once in their hands are now in the hands of these foreigners. Few of them are now at the head of responsible business enterprises. I have talked with their educated men and women until my heart sympathized deeply with them over the inevitable doom of their people. Many of them could scarcely repress their tears as they talked; some did not attempt to conceal their grief. Another danger is present : their women marry these foreigners, especially the Chinese, in ma.iy cases in preference to Hawaiian men. The Chinese take better care of their wives than do the native men ; they work hard for them, and give them homes, food, and clothes. In any Sunday-school you can see children of mixed races. These children are said to be more healthy than those of pure Hawaiian blood. In this way the native race is becoming absorbed. Perhaps there is a divine providence in all these movements. Missionaries came here to work for one race, but God now has brought many races into the circle of their influence. Chris- tian Hawaiian women carry their influence into Chinese homes, and children are brought up . h i. ■• U 96 AROUND THE WORI,D T if ' r ■S ,; ( : 'H - 4 inidcr Cliristian teaching. The Hawaiian fami- lies, for reasons that are not unknown, arc small ; often there are no children. Strange things are said as to what a father thinks is his dnty re- garding his family when he wishes to extend a great ''' aloha^'' welcome, to a guest. Alany things thus combine to make it almost certain that the race, as pure Hawaiian, must soon pass away, and one cannot think of some of the noble men and women he meets here without sorrow regarding the future of their people. The Bishop Museum. — This name is familiar to eye and ear ; it is honored here as in New York. Mr. Charles R. Bishop was a boy in Washington County, N. Y. In company with two other young men, one of whom became Judge Lee, of the Hawaiian Islands, he started for Oregon. The vessel touched here, and they were induced to remain. IVIr. Bishop's wife was the heiress of the late Princess Ruth, the sister of Kamehameha V. A few years ago she died, leaving great possessions, and was buried with many honors. She might have been queen, and probably would have been, but for her desire to consult her husband and the failure to secure in time the needed consultation. Her great estates were left to found schools and a museum. Mr. Bishop, now a man over seventy, is living in San Francisco. He still gives liberally out of his large wealth to add new features to the work. C. M. Hyde, d. d., is the vice-president of i- J./ THE HAWAIIAN FUTURE 97 the imiseum, and because of the absence of Presi- dent Bishop much of the management is in his hands. The full name of the institution is the Bernice Panalii Bishop Museum. In 1889 Mr. Bishop founded it in memory of his wife, and thus American and Hawaiian money, sympatiiy, and love, have sweetly united in this noble charity. The building is of basalt, quarried in the vicinity, and the interior is superbly finished, mainly in koa wood from the island of Maui. The nucleus of the unique collection was the great store of ^apas, calabashes, kahilis, and other relics belonging to Mrs. Bishop and be- queathed to her as the last of the Kamehamehas. The treasures of Queen Emma were added, as well as extensive private collections. This young museum may already rightly claim first rank in kapas, kahilis, mats, and Polynesian stone implements. Eventually the natural his- tory, as well as the ethnology, of Polynesia will be fully represented. Nowhere else in the world did the use of feather ornaments, although common in South America, in North America, in India, in Assyria, and elsewhere, attain such magnificence as in the Hawaiian Islands. The birds here were not more highly plumed, but feather-hunting seems to have been a special object of desire and attain- ment. Here is the magnificent feather robe of Kamehameha the Great, in making which thou- sands upon thousands of birds — as each bird had only a few of the needed feathers — must have been sacrificed. Here is the /&«/«72— meaning G \ y % V ,1.1 I I' 9« AROUND TIIK WORI.n ->,! \i ' " •• i '^- 1 |r something twisted or plaited, and usually feathers — made by the deposed Queen Liliuokalani for Mrs. Bishop's funeral ; and so on, for yards and yards of space, the ornamental feather robes, varyinji; in size from a small cape to jjreat sweep- ing robes. Here are samples of i-a/>(7^ vegetable fibre wrought into paper or cloth ; here are idol gods of many patterns ; here household imple- ments, tools, articles of amusement, articles used in war, in worship, and as ornaments; here canoes and relics of chiefs ; here portraits, pho- tographs, corals, birds, shells, etc. All are ex- cellently well classified, and when Curator Wil- liam S. Brigham flashes his explanations on all you see, you are sure that this is the most in- structive visit you have made in the Hawaiian Islands. If he could bring this museum to New York and give a lecture on it to our citizens they would be deeply interested and greatly instructed. Whatever else the tourist misses in Honolulu, he ought not to miss the Pali and the Bishop Museum. " The Glorious Fourth." — This was a double celebration here. In addition to the idea which all good Americans commemorate, the day was the first anniversary of the Hawaiian Republic. So delicate and sensitive are all the conditions here that the committee having the matter in charge decided to limit the Hawaiian part of it to the military display in the earlier morning and the reception by President Dole following the review of the National Guard. ' U li. TIIK IIAWAIIAX Kl^TUKH 99 The noise, in trnc American style, l)ej^ran the nijrlit before, and it was kept np 'apparently all nij^rht. There was but little sleeping in Hono- Inlu that nijrht. Very early in the niorninjr there were boat racino;, 'horse raein^r, and parades by the "^horribles," and other fantastic or<;a!i;/a- tions. Then came the very creditable military display, followed by the formal reception friyc'n by President Dole, 'i'his was attended by the representatives of foreion jrovernments, by the tonrists, and by the people very j«:enerally. The reception was j»iven in the hall of the Repre- sentatives, Mrs. Dole and other prominent women assistind by Mr. Willis, and after consul- tation with Americans and American-Hawaiians, Minister Willis courteously waited until the ar- rival of President Dole before calling the meet- ing to order. When it was seen that he had entered the pavilion the audience arose to do him honor. President Dole does not seek such manifestations, and it is also said that some of the people would prefer not to give them, as they savor too nmch of the old customs of royalty. I 1 i I I: f. \).\ \i '■7 tl< I lOO AROUND THK WORl.I) Three cheers, however, were ^iven in honor of the republic's first president ; they were honest clieers, but not remarkable for enthusiasm. President Dole does better than merely excite enthusiasm ; he commands respect, evokes ap- preciation, and creates confidence. I'raycr was offered by Rev. I). V. liirnie ; then all joined in sin^inj^^ "America." Mr. Willis opened the speakinjj^ with a brief, finished, and patriotic address, and then j^racefully introduced Dr. Joseph Cook, his steamer bein^ courteously detained that he mi^ht deliver an address. Doc- tor Cook spoke with his characteristic ability in makings broad and rapid ^generalizations and su;h not effectively delivered, its jT^enuine American patriotism g^ave it a hearty reception. In the afternoon a bril- liant company attended the reception ^iven by Minister and Mrs. Willis at the American Lep^a- tion. This occasion was in every way delig^htful. In the eveninjy there were fireworks before the executive buildings and the streets were filled by j^^ood-natured crowds. There was consider- able jollity, but little visible drunkenness. As was to be expected, the Cook-Willis episode of the morning formed a topic of frequent con- versation in the afternoon, and, as was also to be expected, opposing sides were taken with great earnestness. Some American tourists, American residents, and American Hawaiians supported Doctor Cook with much feeling. One American tourist, a member of Congress, was especially em- I i I ■■■' Kl I h : ii ,>i.-. 1. I! ' f i >l: 102 AROUND TIIK WORM) pliatic ill dcnoimcinp^ what lie called "the cow- ardly treatment which Doctor Cook received." Others blamed the committee who secured him and who, as it was claimed, desertcci him when they should have endorsed him. They said, with an element of truth, that he was reprimanded before he had really offended. Others replied that in a sermon and in a lecture, and also in the early part of his address, he had given hints which clearly showed that he was about to pass adverse criticisms on the administration at Washington, and that this was neither the time nor place for any partisan discussion. Both ]\Ir. Willis and Doctor Cook are well able to take care of themselves. The audi- ence was largely with IMinister Willis, and so have been the Honolulu papers of all shades of political opinion. It was clearly, in the popular mind at least, a local triumph for the American minister. Mr. Willis came to fill a most delicate position ; few men are ever called by our govern- ment to perform a more difficult task. There were prominent American Hawaiians who hon- estly objected to some of his positions as Amer- ican minister ; but they even then respected him as an American citizen, and as a Christian gen- tleman. The first grounds of their dissent are now largely removed, and their respect for Mr. WillivS, in the particulars named, is daily in- creasing. Air. Willis has certainly striven to carry out his instructions in circumstances more trying than those in which our ministers are often placed. W .. i«* a THK HAWAIIAN KUTURK 103 TiiK Hawaiian " Fourth."— Tlie Hawaiian anniversary was not nincli in e\-idence. Perliaps it was better tliat it was comparatively incon- spicnous. The repnblic is only one year old ; "unreconstructed" Hawaiians there are in con- siderable numbers, and there are great difficul- ties to be overcome. It would have been unwise to challenge unduly any elements of opposition, and unwise to speak with even seeming boast- fulness of vvhat has been achieved. President Dole is a wise man and marked by great self- poise. He can be silent when silence is golden ; he can speak when speech is golden. His cab- inet is made up of men who are alert, thoughtful, and patriotic. The American flag was "every- where ; the Hawaiian flag was only occasionally seen on private houses and shops. It is, how- ever, extremely difficult to say just when a man here is an American and when a Hawaiian. Has a man ceased to be an American when he has taken the oath of allegiance to the Ha\vaiian Republic ? So it seems to have been decided in responsible quarters. Then was this " Fourth " American or Hawaiian ? Who can tell ? Rnt if a man by taking oath to the Hawaiian Republic has ceased to be an American, is he liable to the income tax? That was once a very practical question here ; fortunately, it is now out of tiie way. If all who have taken the oath to the Hawaiian Republic have ceased to be Americans then the "Fourth" at Independence Park was far more a Haw^aiian than an American celebra- tion. Things are mucli complicated here. m < 11 r !-'♦• 104 AROUND THE WORLD \ III r? ! i' ! But ill any case this mid-ocean republic is moving forward. The people have undertaken to establish here a true republic, to give equal justice to all, and to guarantee the equitable ad- ministration of the aflFairs of all the people. Th:- republic is scarcely an experiment now, for it has shown itself capable of preserving its own existence and of making needed reforms. It is building roads which are opening up large por- tions of the islands. It is conducting all its affairs with intelligence, firmness, capacity, and honesty. It is without doubt the purest gov- ernment to-day on the earth. It unites firm- ness with leniency, and it happily combines mercy and justice. It has shown that in a re- public the hand of law can be firm and the stroke of justice sure as in a monarchy. The pardon of a goodly number of political prisoners on the first anniversary of the republic was an act both just and politic on the part of the gov- ernment. The refusal to grant pardons at pres- ent to the real offenders was an act equally just and politic. In due time, it is generally believed, other pardons will follow. May the Republic of Hawaii prosper! May it live long enough to prove its right to self-existence, and to receive, perhaps on the expiration of President Dole's term of ofBce, if not before, an entrance under some form of dependency into the sisterhood of States, with the enthusiastic welcome of all pa- triotic Americans and with the glad and grate- ful consent of all patriotic Hawaiians. For this happy consummation let us all labor and pray. 'H: IX RELIGIOUS DEVELOPMENT OF HAWAII TT certainly was true of tlie Hawaiian Islands A as the prophet Isaiah long arec for his mission work. His character was conspicuous for his honestv, sinceritv, and consistencv. All uood men loved him, and he had the respect of even bad men. He came back to the United States in 1 84 1, and soon after his return he published a volume si^'"^S ^ history of the mission. He died in 1869. Dr. Asa Thurston was born in Fitchburo^, Massachusetts, October 12, 1787. He made a careful study and acquired thorouo;li knowledj^^e of the Hawaiian people, and for a time he was the instructor of both Kamehameha H. and Ka- mehameha HI., and his influence over both was very g^reat. It is an interestino^ fact that for forty-eight years he never left the islands. Dur- •■:i it ' ■^I Ki:i.I(;iouS DKVJ'KOi'MKNT OK HAWAII KjQ iii.i,- all this period lie had the full respect of natives and foreioiiers alike. He cluiu^r to his work, iiotwithstandincr his advanced aj-, until repeated strokes of paralvsis compelled him to desist. On the eleventh of May, iSGS, at tiie a^e of eirance hecanse of his mis- sionary labors in these islands. Doctor Arm- stron^r's noble, nsefnl, and honored life was bronj^dit to a close by his beino^ thrown from his horse, a fortnij^dit after which he died at Ilono- Inhi, vSeptend)er 23, 1860. Mis family name was still fnrther honored by the noble life and snpcrb service of his son, (General Armstron<^^ FoRiaoN CiiURCiiKs. — There arc such public buildinj^rs as the Odd Fellows' Mall, Public Library, and the Younj^ Men's Christian As- sociation Mall. Its readinor-room, parlors, j,^ymnasium, and hall are all well arranj^ed an^, as I nnderstand the matter, the only case of tlie kind in their work ontside of the United States. All the denominations will soon be in Hono- Inlu. The Con^rejjational, ICpiscopal, Metho- dist, Roman Catholic, Christian, Adventist, and Mormon Cluircli,..'S are already here ; so is the Salvation Army. It is qnite certain that a rea- sonable mnltiplication of evanj^^clical churches will greatly assist all the interests of onr common Christianity, and vigorous, aggressive evange- listic work is needed both for natives and for- ■ 1 1. kKi.KiiofS 1)I':vi;i.oi'.mi:nt (ji- iiawaii 115 cij^ncrs on tlu'sc islaiuls. Then.' is a j^oodly iminhcr of baptists in Honolulu. Tlu-y arc now at work in (lilTc'icnt churches, and sonic of thcni arc lutpinj^ that the day may soon conic when they can orj^^ani/c for earnest Christian work in fidl harmony with their interpretation of the commands of Christ. The stay in Honolulu was in a sense a busy time in si;.;lit-seein^, receiving- and returning' .social courtesies, and in speakinj^ and writing. It was also a delightful time. Nothing can sur- pass the hospitality of the ])cople of Honolulu. The dinner at the American Legation, with its choice company of guests, representing the gov- ernments of three nations, the navy and knight- hood, and also three denominations by their clergy, will continue to be a pleasant memory. Baskets of fruit and flowers testified to the kindly thought of the donors toward a newcomer in this cosmopolitan city when he returned from Hilo. The groups on the dock and the fraternal farewells take their place among memory's treasures. To the Hawaiian Islands I give my warmest " Aloha," and with another I sing, per- haps with the exaggeration in.separable appar- ently from a visit liere : Hawaii nei — of many one thou art, Each scattered fragment an essential part. No jeweled setting is more fair than thee, O em' raid cluster in a beryl sea. Thy life is music ; Fate, the notes prolong ! Each isle a stanza and the whole a song. 'H i m '1! [''< X X AT SEA AGAIN THE departure from Honolulu was worthy of description. So great was the hospi- tality of the Honolulu friends that leaving them was not unlike leaving home again. Rev. T. D. Garvin courteously drove me to the wharf, which was crowded with the people of the town who had come to see the steamer leave. The arrival and departure of the steamers are events of great interest in this island city. As I stepped on the gangway two native women, whom I had met several times at the services of the Christian Church, threw over my head garlands of flowers, the beautiful Icis which form a marked feature in the life of Honolulu. The natives are fond of flowers, and the leis they make with rare skill and beauty. The white people have adopted the custom of adorn- ing themselves with these garlands, and often passengers are almost covered with these ex- pressions of affection and taste. Civ'ilization is robbing the world of the original peculiarities of different countries, but this unique Hawaiian custom ought to survive. My appearance as I went on board the steamer would have amused friends at home to Vv'hom this beautiful Hawaiian ii6 V^ AT SEA AGAIN 117 1 custom is unknown. The kindness of these women was characteristic of the warm-hearted race to which they belong. At the head of the gang-plank stood Mrs. S. A. Oilman and Dr. and ]\Irs. Gulick and others. Mrs. Gilman's thonghtfulness was shown in gifts of choice flowers and luscious fruits. This worthy woman once had for pastors, Drs. D. C. Eddy and A. H. Burlingham ; but for fifteen years she had not witnessed the observance of the ordinance of baptism until it was adminis- tered by Mr. Garvin of the Christian Church soon after he went to Honolulu. She cannot now speak without tears of the joy she experi- enced when she again witnessed our Lord s sig- nificant and beautiful ordinance. It is a thou- sand pities that so many churches rob themselves of the symbolic teaching and great spiritual blessings which accompany the observance of the Lord's baptism. It was a pleasure to receive the good-bye of Mr. Edward L. Marshall, formerly of the War- burton Avenue Church, Yonkers. The basket of delicious Hawaiian grapes w^iich he sent to cabin No. 27 gave daily pleasure during the en- tire journey to Yokohama. The raising of grapes of this excellent quality is practically a new industry at Honolulu ; it is as yet largely in the hands of the Portuguese, and promises soon to be a very valuable addition to the pro- ducts of the island of Oahu. The courtesy of the Hon. Francis M. Hatch, minister of foreign affairs, and of Mr. F. W. Damon in coming to V; it h \ I-: I, I I ''i Hi ii8 AROUND THE WORLD give their good wishes to the departing visitor was much appreciated. The Hawaiian band played national and other airs, the Hawaiian boys dived for pennies ; the numerous American and Hawaiian friends waved tiieir good-byes, and soon the good ship " Coptic " slowly glided out of the harbor over the many colored waves ; and before long the many colored hills faded out of sight. Honolulu is now a beautiful memory. The boundless expanse of the Pacific, typifying infinite space, is on every side ; and three thou- sand five hundred miles distant are the shores of Japan. To God body and soul are committed anew, as with thoughts of family and church, the face is turned toward the distant coast. I '' It it ri The Ship and Passengers. — The "Coptic" is a good ship. She once sailed in the White Star fleet in the Australia trade, but recently she was entirely overhauled and put into this trade. She arrived in Honolulu a day before her schedule time, thus affording the passengers from San Francisco an opportunity to get a good view of the Hawaiian capital before proceeding on their journey to Yokohama. The ship is scrupulously neat and clean in every part ; the cabin and table linen is abundant and spotless. She is officered by Englishmen and Americans. Captain Lindsay is a Scotch-Englishman and, although only in middle life, is an experienced officer. The steward is a mulatto who has had much experience in catering for clubs in San Francisco, and thoroughly understands his bus- >) ? AT SEA AGAIN 119 iness. The cooks, the waiters, and the crew are all Chinese ; and the captain says that under proper leadership there are no better sailors It is said by the steward that when he has trained his men for their work there are no better cooks and waiters than the Chinese. They are docile, workful, and faithful. They do not steal, as the steward says other waiters and cabin-stewards always do. There is no show of authority any- where on the ship, but the discipline is all the more effective because it is not manifested in the reiteration of commands. The table is ex- cellent and the ship is thoroughly v ^ntilated. In this latter respect great improvements have been made on most ships in quite recent years. There were only twenty-two cabin passengers, and we were all grateful that the number was so small. Each passenger who so desired could have an entire sleeping cabin ; and only those who have had a disagreeable cabin-mate in rough weather at sea can fully appreciate the blessing of being alone. Even if the cabin- mate is agreeable and the weather is pleasant, still it is a great privilege to be alone rather than with a stranger. Among our number were two young men who had been with me on the "Australia" from San Francisco to Honolulu; at the latter place these two young men from Milwaukee were joined by an American Ha- waiian. They had been fellow-students at Har- vard, and were on their way around the world, and having plenty of time and other necessary requisites, they expected to take about two years i.W tli .?. VI' vf] Jill 1 ->tl AI^Ol'M) \'\\\i WOKI.D 1; !i i V foi \\\c liip; \n\\ soiiu^ nl" iis l\>i \ ( » \ obvious unisons o;inuot ti;»\rl so IlnsiiMinis who luul \h'v\\ scnl oiil In tlu it iMniMutn(M\l to m;«lv(' m (■.nilnl sIikIn oI m11 thiU inrdiv'.d siiiMUt" Iims IcmhumI (tf cliolci;!. Tlun \\.\i\ lu'iMi in Talis, l.othloo, ami N('\v N'oiU, tluMi llun ha«l I'losstd llu- rontiiuMil to San iMaui-isoo, and altn sjH'ndini; s»Mnc (inu^ in japan t1u\ wotiUl visit \'ladivost(>U, and so km* h honu\ At tl\r t'a]>tain's taMc, in adililion to tlio \A>unv> iMMUloinrn naint^il and soino ol" tlio \onnv;oi otlictMS o'i {\\v ship, wo had a small h»it inttM(\stini; i^ronp ol" nnssionarics. I'iist of th(^ niunlni is Mis. J. \V. l.anilnith, who with hoi lato hiislvind, the Kt^v. J. W. l.anihnth, saiU-il tVoni .\"ow VotU, in Mav, iSsj, loi C'hina, as a inissionavv nndoi {he thvcotitui t>f tlic IM. 1{. Chnudi, vSonth. Thov hoi;an Ihciv work in i>]iain;hai, and o«Mitiniicd in it there until jul\", iSS(\ wIkmi thev shared in the plautini^ ol" a cimilii w.mI.- Ill l■l1^•l11 l^i^.-liii' 1 'iiitKiiMi /li.l lor nianv vears slie eomlneted tlie (. Ii^jnon vSehool for i;irls in vShanohai. »She also t\nindetl the dav sehools for children aiul Hihle wtMueii. On reaehius:; j-M"*-^" both beiian the study of Japanese with the enthusiasm of xi^alh. To the success- AT SI'.A A<.AIN 121 li ho liil liiiliishiiil Miiil I'lihlc 'ri;iiiiiii}' S< ImioI vvlii( Ii llu V li:ili((| III Kniic, Ml-,. |,;iiiiIhi||i is now iclliniill}^', l<» |)l|| il nil ;i iittii |),|.'.i',. hiKlnl l,;iinltiil)i (lied in KoIm , in Apiil, fH(^^, and is I'liiicd llictr. 'I'Ik it m.ii, Dr. W. K. I,;iiiil»iit li, NVJis lot MV(M;il \(;iis ;i tnr tnissicdi lios|)it;il in Snochow, CMiiii;!. Tlir \(>nnj>ci son is shidvin^' nicdi( inc in Ain(Mi<;i, Mild hopes l;i|(i (<. join l)o(loi l';iik in Ihc Iiospil.'il woik in vSoochow. The chihhcii thus show Ihc liiic niissiotiMtv spirit. Willi Ihoni is Miss Nn Kin^ \'A\yr^ m. i»., ;i most inltMcslini; \oiitu» Chinese woman. F let- name means ( '.oldeti Ni}^hfinJ^de Ciaiil. She eanie to Anietiea eleven yeats a^M» and was al that time nnahh- l() speak a woni of Ivnj^dish. I ler prandial her was one of the eat liest eon verts ; he-r lathet was a MethocUst pnaeher and presifl- JJij^^ cidti. 'Pheic were three ehihhcn -one, tlie .son, was a missionary, one (kiii^diler a teaeher, and this oiu- a mediea! missionary. vSlie was }4ra(hialc>d with honots at the Woniatrs Me(h"eal ColIe|>e, IMiikidelphia, in i.S<;,|, and thc-n took a i;ia(hiate course for one year. vShe has made a specialty of the diseases of women and children, and has also ^iven mnch allention to disea.ses of the eye. vShe will he one of the inl(Tnrs in the hospital for women at ImmkIiow. Her knowledge of inediciiie will give her access to I ' 1 1 iff > \ P I M, I y 1/ U Hi k - i 122 AROUND THE WORLD the homes of wealthy heathen families, thus proving a golden key to open all doors. The Chinese Steerage. — We had about four hundred Chinese in the steerage, some having come from San Francisco and the others from Honolulu. Very few emigrate to America with the purpose of making a home there ; sooner or later the great majority expect to re- turn to the Celestial Empire. There was also a number oi Japanese going to their home, some of these being cabin passengers. The Chinese pay fifty-two dollars for their passage from San Francisco, and forty dollars from Honolulu. The ship gives them their food with their pas- sage for these sums, and as the food is only boiled rice seasoned with dried fish or curry, and can be furnished at a cost of eight or ten cents a day, the ship makes a liberal profit out of these steerage passengers. There was no second cabin on this ship, but there was a compartment known as the European steerage, — all who are not Mongolians by this classificaiion being called Europeans. An officer informed me that there was the sum of a million dollars in specie on board. This money was going to China and Japan to pay for goods sold in San Francisco and Honolulu by merchants of these nationalities. He also told me that these four hundred steerage passengers were probably carrying back not less than half a million dollars in specie as the result of their savings. They landed in America without a dollar ; they re- I ' . li ' I AT vSKA AGAIN 123 turned to China with money enouj^li, in many cases, to enable them to live without labor for the rest of their lives. They thus carry ^reat sums of money from the United States, and the complaint of many Americans seems to be justi- fied ; but, as Mr. Ballon remarks, in his " Due West," the Chinese leave behind them the result of their labor, and this is pr^ictically so much money. Their labor has built many of our rail- ways, dug our canals, and forwarded many pub- lic works. We ought to look at that side, even while we regret seeing so much money leave our shores, which if in the hands of most other workingmen would be spent in America. The Chinese were thickly packed in the steer- age. Fortunately for them the weather was fine and the sea smooth. They squatted about the hatchways or lay on the lower decks ; but in spite of the enforced ventilation in their close quarters, noxious odors were occasionally whiffed from them to the upper deck and to the first- class cabin. Some venturesome passengers went once with the doctor on his rounds, and once was quite enough. Here were Chinese old and sick going home to die ; some of them were almost nude as they lay on the floor or in their bunks. Some were smoking their opium pipes. Several died during the voyage, and their bodies were hastily embalmed by tlie ship's surgeon. We were told that on a voyage on another ship of this line there were forty-nine deaths among the Chinese. It is an article of their creed that their souls I; li / iti 'I'l ^ 124 AROUND THE WORLD * cannot rest in peace unless their bodies arc buried in the land of their birth. Kvcn thouj^li they are buried outside of China, sooner or later, if possible, their bones at least are dug- up and sent home by their friends. These ships carry bodies and bones as merchandise, and do no small amount of business in this way, realizing a good profit out of this Chiuej() AKOI'MI) Till-: U'OUI.n [•♦4 ^ h- K h! vSojiK" of tlu' cahiii |)ass(.>n«^i'ts played cards, and soiiK' the vatiitiis ^aiius i-nimuoii to the (kvks t)l' ships; l)nt the majoriU' spnil most of thi'ii timr in ivadiiij^. lUfoiv kaviiij; Iloiiolidii 1 j^ot tlic leading iiiaoa/ims for ,Jiil\, they liav- iuj; come in »>n the "Co|)tic\" In adilition to tlic liteiatnte wliieh passengers carried, lliere was a well-selected library on board, and at lo A. M. anil I V. M. the lil)rarian was present to j^ive ont books. In it wire some of the latest and most popular books, and what especially intirested me, a j^ooil collection of the most recent and au- thoritative books on China and Jai)an. A man sees in any country only what he brinj^s with him eyes to see, and he onj^ht at least to know the salient points in the history and K^'<'J4'''M*''y of the countries he proposes to visit. The books ii; this library well supplemented those alreadv read; it thus came to pass that each day testihed lo the readiui^ of about one volume on the hi.s- tory and customs of India, China, and japan. The passen*;ers looked iutercstiuii^ in their white duck or flannel suits, their canvas shoes and li<;ht caps or hats, and all the ofhcers of the ship were similarly dressed. We often with much amuse- ment contrasted our present aj^pcarancc Avitli that of passengers on Atlantic trips when ru^trs, ulsters, and ti^ht caps and "loves are a necessity. Kveu these wraps cannot entirely keep out the pierciui;- winds of the x\tlantic. When our ship j;ot as far west as i6o° east from (ireeuwich the warm and moist air of the Japan stream \vas almost too warm and moist for comfort, but for AT si: A AC. AIM 127 tlic nn>st part llictc was iicilluT too mm h lual nor cold for an idral tiij). CuossiNd 'niiv 1,1 N I',. — Tliis was to n>osl of lis a iiiii(|iu' ix|Kritiu-c-. Iii„ and seven hours. This was, therefore, a record- breaking journey. The captain greatly prided himself on the surprise which he would give to the officers of his company. As we neared the "Land of the Rising vSun" night was coming on and the view of Yokohama from the bay we could not fully get ; neither could we get a glimpse of Fujiyama; but we saw the rugged coast, along which for some time we sailed. Many strange thoughts filled our minds as we entered Yedo Bay. Yokohama was only a fish- ing village when, in 1854, Commodore Perry en- tered this bay ; now it is a great and rapidly AT SEA AGAIN 129 ' j^rowiii^ city. Then Japan was barely induced to make treaties witli outside peoples ; now she is their earnest i)Upil. Christianity is j^cttin^ a firm foothold, and Japan is taking her place among the great and progressive nations of the world. In the last ten years Japan has made more history for herself than during the preced- ing two and a half centuries. Witliin a genera- tion she has accomplished wonderful transforma- tions. This is the period of her " renaissance," in which she has exchanged a feudal system for a constitutional monarchy, has extinguished the privileges of a military class, and the people have elected a lower house of parliament. She has overthrowu the usurpations of the emperor's functions by the sh(\quns^ and in 1868 she re- stored the emperor to actual power. She is now flushed with her recent victory and is in danger of being carried away by her military ambitions. But apart from these graver thoughts there are others of a lighter kind. We are coming to fan land, to islands of porcelain, to the country of chrysanthemums. We look out on the lights of Yokohama. The rain is falling heavily. The ship is stopping. See the steam launches which bear down upon us to carry passengers to the hotels and to bear off the mails. See the sam- pans which are ready to carry off the steerage passengers, a queer craft with the bare-legged boatmen in their strange picturesqueness. It is all just like the picture books. Out we go over boats and amid shouting boatmen. The customs I it K kl 1 ,vll V t: ^i 130 AROUND THE WORLD examirations are merely no>ninal ; only the con- traband opinm is likely to cause trouble. See the rows of jinrikisha men with their queer lan- terns waitir g for calls. Here we are at the hotel on the Bund looking out on the bay with its re- flection of the lights of ships, streets, and hotels, and we really are in Japan. I XI JAPANEwSF HISTORY \17HEN Marco Polo in 1295 returned from V V his travels in China, he i^ave the world its hrst knowledge of the Japanese empire. In Lhina lie had been told of an island called "Ci- pango " in the high seas fifteen hundred miles trom the continent. From this name the Tapa- nese derived the name Nippon ; to this they pre- fixed the word " Dai," meaning great, and so they called their islands Dai Nippon, and this name they still use. Europeans transformed the name into Japon or Japan, ''Laud of the rising sun." Early Japan.— Marco Polo's discovery pro- duced a profound impression, and to visi\ this reputedly rich island was one of the objects of ambition on the part of different nations Japan consists of four large islands and lot fewer than three thousand small ones. On these islands there are many volcanic peaks which rise to a great elevation : the highest of tuese is Fujisan better known to us as Fujiyama, "matchless mountain." It is nearly conical in shape, al- though the volcanic eruption in 1707 somewhat deformed one of its sides. It frequently appears in paintings of many landscapes though they are '31 \: :i!^ ^(>, h ■ li \ i '11 :. 11 n w P /'I l- 132 AROUND THE WORLD far distn^.t from it. It is sixty miles from Tokyo in a direct line. For ten months of the year its top is covered with snow. Its height is put down at twelve thousand three hundred and sixty-five feet, although perhaps a few feet more or less may be reckoned in order to give it as many thousands as there are months in the year, and so many hundreds as there are days in the year. This mountain is in some sense an object of religious reverence, and large numbers of pil- grims annually visit it. The Japanese love the grand and beautiful, and a skillful appeal is made to this feeling in the location of IJuddhist and Shinto temples and shrines. Asamayama is over eight thousand feet high, and it has the ad- ditional interest of being an active volcano. Its crater is more than a mile in circumference, and the rumbling noise which it gives forth can often be heard at a distance of twenty miles from its base. All these islands are, and always have been, remarkable for frequent earthquakes ; as many as five hundred shocks have occurred in Japan in a single year, but many of them were quite slight. In 1891 there was a severe shock in the main island, and in 1854 a series of shocks fol- lowed by tidal waves took place on tlie east coast of this island. In Japan, as in the Hawaiian. Is- lands and elsewhere, volcanoes are closely a::soci- ated with earthquakes. It is claimed by those competent to judge, that the long line of islands stretching from Kamtschatka to Borneo is the product of volcanic action. Without doubt glo- JAPAN 1<:SK HISTORY ^33 rious Fujiyama was thrown up to its sublime height as a volcano. Lakes are numerous in the mountainous districts ; there is a legend that Biwa, the largest lake in the main island, came into existence in a single night when Fujiyama, three hundred miles distant, was thrown up to its present height. There are no rivers of great size in Japan, as the islands are narrow. Among the people of the island, the Ainos are a distinct race ; a small number of them is still found in the island of Yczo, and also in the is- land of Saghalien ; most of them, however, re- moved in 1875 from this latter island when part of it was then given to Russia in exchange for the Kurile Islands. Probably the Ainos are the original race. For long periods the military forces of the empire were employed to suppress this barbarous race ; but years of repression have made their descendants an inoffensive people. In 1880 their number in the island of Yezo was something over sixteen thousand, and it is grad- ually decreasing. Physically they are a sturdy people, being characterized by bushy heads of hair, great beards, and an abundant growth of hair on the body generally. They have few arts, no written language, no pictorial writing, and only the rudest implements and the vaguest re- ligious ideas. They have very strange super- stitions regarding the bear ; often a young cub is secured, brouglit to the home, and nourished by the woman as if it were a child. It is later confined in a cage and is finally killed when the great bear festival is held. The people feast ■1 1 ii ll . 1 ■} 1 1 1 W! *i'f' ( i ^ 134 AROUND TIIK WORLD H'i S I'Li .", s ■ ' ii with dclii^lit on its meat. The men are con- firmed sa/ce drinkers, a habit which they have learned from the Japanese. Some mission work is goinof on among them, bnt as the difficulties of the work are great and their numbers are con- stantly decreasing, it has seemed wiser to keep workers in more needful and hopeful fields. The Shinto religion is rightly regarded as the primitive belief of the Japanese people ; it is known to have prevailed long before priests from Korea propagated Buddhism. Shintoism is a mixture of ancestor and nature worship. It is now more political than religious. Moto-ori, a writer of the eighteenth century, and the great- est advocate of Shintoism, is quoted by Doctor Murray, in his "Japan," as admitting that Shin- toism has no moral code. He affirms that "morals" were invented by the Chinese, as they were an immoral people, but that the Japanese had only to consult their own hearts. As early as A. d. 284 Chinese literature was introduced into Japan. For three thousand years before the Christian era China was one of the cultured nations of the earth, and long before the Japanese had emerged into a recognized ex- istence the Chinese were a civilized people. No doubt the Jaj)anese were originally closely related to some sections of the Chinese. They early accepted tlie Chinese written language, and Chinese philosophy and religion. In tliis way Buddhism, with its priesthood, ritual, and dogma, secured a foothold ; indeed, tliey allowed this imported faith to reduce the supporters of their ; i ^i' u ; JAPANKSK HISTORY 135 '■■) lis primitive religion to a small minority. Every- thing Chinese was esteemed and its learning was eagerly songht, and respect for the Chinese led to the early introduction of the Chinese system of official rank. Introduction of Catholicism. — In 1542 the Portuguese made their f^st appearance in Japan; and in 1547 Pinto made a second visit in the interests of trade. On the occasion of this visit he took away two fugitives who ap- pealed to liiin from the shore. They were taken in a Portuguese ship to Malacca, where Pinto met Father Francis Xavier, who had just arrived from his mission to the East. At once he be- came interested in these two Japanese. They were sent to Goa, the chief seac of Jesuit learn- ing in the East Indies, and there they were con- verted and baptized. They learned the Portu- guese language and the elements of Christianity. With them as helpers, Xavier arrived in Japan August 15, 1549, at Kagoshima, the capital of the province of Satsuma. Wonderful stories are told of Xavier's powers as a miracle-worker, although he himself does not claim such power. But his biographers and the papal bull announcing his canonization distinctly claim for him the power of working miracles. He endured great sufferings and performed heroic services, sufferings and services worthy of a purer faith. He finally sailed for China, as his work was so discouraging in Japan, and at tlie little island of Sancian, while on his way, he died, December 22, 'U ^'l i 1 '..1 ' i' 136 AROUND THE WORLD u 1552, aged forty-six ; but he sowed seed in Japan whose fruits are reaped even to this day. In 1573 Nagasaki was nominally a Christ'.an City; in 1587 an edict was issued expelling ail foreign religious teachers from Japan within twenty days, on pain of death. Romanists were having in Japan an application of their own doctrine of persecution which at that very time Philip II. was so satanically inflicting on the Netherlands, and they brought this prohibition on themselves by their internal jealousies and their interference with political affairs. Wherever in Japan the Jesuits had obtained the ascendency they endeav- ored by perr.ecution to compel all the people to adopt their faith. Pope Gregory XIII., who had received a dele- gation of Japanese representatives, issued a brief in 1585 that no religious teachers except Jesuits should be allowed in Japan ; this brief was in- tended to prevent the bitter rivalries between different wings within the Roman Church — bit- ter then and equally bitter to-day. This action of the pope was intensely distasteful to the Do- minicans and Franciscans. Spanish merchants were also envious of the Portuguese merchants who had secured so large a share of the Japanese trade. The Jesuits and Franciscans became still more embittered against one another ; if half which each said of the other was true, neither was worthy of the confidence of the Japanese people. The result was that when Hideyoshi came into power, while the Portuguese were permitted to traffic in the ports they were forbidden, under pain . I JAPANESE HISTORY ^Z7 lalf of havin.Q: their ships confiscated, to brin<^a." Tlic Dutch warned the Japanese {government of the coniinj^ of this expedition. As the two steam fri«^ates anil two sloops-of- war plowed throng^h the peaceful waters every height along the shore was alive with troops and alarmed people. Commodore Perry would not conduct his business through the Dutch or the Chinese. He honored the Japanese, and he determined that they should honor Americans. No doubt he relied on his display of force in part for the success of his expedition, but he conducted all his negotiations with great cour- tesy and wisdom. On February 2, 1854, he ap- peared again in Yedo Bay. The signing of negotiations took place March 31, 1854, and this first formal treaty with any western country was soon completed. Other nations rushed in to obtain similar terms. Japan was opened, and America was honored. The Japanese were divided by these transac- tions into two parties, one of which was bitterly opposed to all dealings with foreign nations. The story is long uid interesting and marked by bitterness and blood ; it shows how Japan finally came into her place of honor among the nations of civilization. Her old feudalism had to be overthrown, daimios had to renounce their power, and her shoguns had to lose their influ- ence. But for a time intense dissatisfaction and great excitement prevailed. A marvelous revo- lution has taken place. It was found in 1865 that several Christian communities in the neigli- 11 JATANKSK IIISTOKV M3 borliood of Nafjasaki had inaiiitaincd in secret an existence ever since tlie seventeenth centnry. In i86S the pnl)Hc ediet-ljoards annonnced that "the evil sect called Christian is strictly prohib- ited." The Jesnitswere snpjiosed to he identical with Christians of other names. Ministers of foreijj^n powers remonstrated, bnt the Japanese justified their procedure because of the conduct of the Jesuits of the precedinj^ centuries. Some Christians were deported, but in March, 1872, those who were exiled were permitted to return, and, thank (iod, persecution for rclit. Its use is rapidly spreading. Great efforts were i.ade to introduce it into California and the Hawaiian Islands, but no one could be found who was willing to run with it. The Japanese consuls in America were strongly op- poied to having their conntrymtu degraded by running with it in America. Running with it is truly a degr:Tdation, for it cheapens manhood and makes men beasts of burden. It is said that men cannot run with it more than five or seven years before they are used up. Peihaps it gives the rider either the idea of superiority or of degradation ; certainly it tends much to minister to the feeling of caste ; no sensitive man, at the first at least, likes to be drawn by a fellow- man who is thus taking the place of an animal. But it must b( admitted that these little car- riages are wono^-^'illy convenient. They will come right up to your doorstep. Your "horse," instead of being an object of care to you, makes you the subject of his care. He looks after you at every moment. When it rains he tucks you up; when it is sunny he can shade \ -n. He will carry you to the steps of your j\v n house or hotel iv 1 i 1*. i ■ ! IS if f f' if ^ >:'l f ,1, r> ■' ! 1 ?^ 4 ;•'/ II < 148 AROUND THE WORLD and will assist you to alight. He is a remark- able horse. He will run with you in this careful way a long distance and charge you only five cents for his trouble. Visiting Churches. — Some of these thoughts went through my mind as we ran to Mr. Bear- ing's pleasant home, which was formerly the home of the learned and devoted Dr. Nathan Brown. Soon we were in the Japanese Baptist churcli. The streets were muddy and the con- gregation wore their getas^ wooden clogs, which lifted their feet two or three inches from the ground. These were piled up at the door, and the congregation entered the churcli walking on the clean mats in their stocking feet, or with light sandals. IVIost attractive was the congregation dressed in kimonos^ bound with the ubi. which was tied behind in a big bow. The girls from Miss Converse's school looked as if they had been cut out of a screen or a fan. The devotional exen ises were conducted by a Japanese helper, and all the people joined audi- bly in responsive readings, reading with a meas- ured cadence, in a peculiar sing-song fashion. This I learned is the old Japanese style, a style wliich is beginning to disappear in the New Japan of to-day. The -.ernion was preached by the pastor. Rev. A. A. Bennett. Next to Doctor Rhees, Mr. I'ennett has been the longest in the service of the Missionary Union in Japan. He was graduated at Brown and at Morgan Park, and is a man of scholarly habits and attainments. i ■1 V :■( ( i\ V :ii ¥ I- 4i \'\- 150 AROUND THE WORLD i I, ! i> i::t; ■l: scrolls which are partly seen peeping ont from beneath it. Except the date, Doctor Brown him- self wrote the inscription : " In memory of Na- than Brown, American Missionary, born June 22, 1807, died January i, 1886. God bless the Japanese." There is a carving of a book marked "Revelation," and an open hymn book, with one cover partly inserted into the " Epistle to the Hebrews." Doctor Brown's last work was on this new hymn book and the revision of this Epistle. He was an accurate scholar, a great philologist, and a truly good man. Some Fine Institutions. — We next pro- ceeded to the Mary L. Colby Home. Beautiful for situation is this home, honored is the name it bears, and excellent is the work it does. At its head is Miss C. A. Converse, who came to Yokohama in 1889 to take charge of the girls' school, then under the care of Mrs. Brown, now Mrs. Ashmore, a school located in the rear of the lot on which stands the home which was then Mrs. Brown's. Miss Converse was previously a teacher in the Vermont Academy, at Saxton's River, Vermont. She is a competent teacher, is much beloved by the girls under her care, and has been blessed in leading many of them to Christ. The girls were soon to go away for the season, and some of them to heathen homes. This was a tender session. Miss Converse read our lyord's prayer in John, seventeenth chapter, and made appropriate comments thereon. Then the writer was asked to address the girls, giving It i» ^ fl 1/ A SUNDAY IN YOKOHAMA 151 them encouragement to be faithful to Christ even unto death. His words were interpreted by an estimable young Eurasian sister, whose father's name is well known all over the East as the head of a great business firm. In her early years she lived in the home of a gentleman widely known in connection with English con- sular service. Slie is well educated and is in all respects a very worthy young woman, She is now Miss Converse's assistant. Her case will suggest later some comments on the problems growing out of this large class in the East, and on the moral character -^f many Europeans who have in the East temporary homes and wives, who are not wives, and children whom many of them afterward do not recognize as their chil- dren. On the Monday evening following, tliis school was again visited, and while the girls in true Japanese fashion sat in a semi-circle on their knees or on their heels, the writer again addressed them. It not a little disconcerted him to have them give a genuine Japanese bow, the forehead going to the floor, and this act repeated several times. At the conclusion of the school service Sun- day afternoon A^e hastened to the grounds and buildings of the Yokohama Baptist Theological Seminary, which is beautifully situated on the Bluff, and which overlooks the city and harbor of Yokohama. These comfortable and appro- priate buildings were erected in 1894. There are two recitation rooms and a chapel on the first floor of the recitation hall ; on the second ,1'.' I il ;» NV!' ■'I :, I . I I i* i'i I J fill ^52 AROUND THE WORLD ^' ■' H floor there are recitation rooms and a library. The inside of the dormitory is genuinely Japa- nese ; it is well that the students should not be unfitted while at the seminary to ^;o out and live among the people in their own style. The course of study is toin years, and during this time the Bible is carefully studied. The library contains about five hundred Japanese books and one thousand five hundred English books. Friends can do good service by sending good books to these shelves. Cannot readers of these words help this seminary? Much evangelistic work is done by the students. Some of them were soldiers in the late war ; and some of them won great praise for their bravery, obedience, and intelligence. The Rev. John L. Bearing, a graduate of Colby and Newton, is the president of the seminary, and his noble wife, the daughter of Rev. Henry Hinckley, of Roslindale, Mass., teaches Greek there. Leaving the seminary, I was soon at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Bearing for the Sunday evening meal ; then off with Mr. Bearing to visit some of his practically outdoor preaching stations. Small Japanese houses are rented, their fronts are thrown open, the evangelists stand inside, the Christians come in to help in the singing, and the crowd gathers outside. In jiiwikishas we went to two of these stations, which are located in very needy parts of the city. Mr. Bearing is pushing this work with great skill. He is a man as tactful as he is forceful. He deserves and receives the praise of all his brethren, We i A SUNDAY IN YOKOHAMA 153 have, as I shall later point out in detail, excel- lent men and women composing our Baptist missionary force in Japan. Returning to the Bluff and to a hall connected with tlie work of the Reformed Dutch Church, the writer preached to a congregation in which were many missionaries and their wives. Some of them were Methodists who had been attending their recent conference. Such an audience listens with appreciation and tenderness to a voice from the home land which tells of Christ and his love as the inspiring motive in missionary and other kinds of service. It was a busy and a blessed day. A GuMPSK OF Yokohama. — This is now the chief commercial port of Japan. In a sense it forms the port of Tokyo. It is the chief treaty port, Kobe alone of the five others approaching anything like the same importance as a foieign trading post. Until the latter part of the six- teenth century, it was included in the village of Ishikawa, but then it was made a separate vil- lage and called Yokohama, which means "a by-coast," as it was then connected with the Yokaido, or main road, only by a by-path at Hodogaya. In 181 8 it had only eighty-seven houses ; in the beginning of 1859 it was only an insignificant fishing village in a marsh on the opposite side of the bay of Kanagawa. This town was the one named by treaty to be opened to foreign trade July i, 1859. But as the water was too shallow, the place "across the bay," as M ^•t.'i i 1; 1 il ...- k: f ' 154 AROUND THE WORLD r? 1 ■' .1 ^i '^i some say Yokohama means, was chosen. Three years after the port was opened the foreiji^n com- munity numbered only one hundred and twenty- six ; but it has been constantly increasing ever since. Now it is claimed that the population consists of about one hundred thousand natives, seventeen thousand Europeans and Americans, and two thousand six hundred Chinese. Many European nationalities are included in this por- tion of this greatly mixed population. There are three great divisions of the city : the Settlement, the Bluff, and the Native Town. In the Settlement is the English Hatoba, the principal landing-place for the city. This part of the city, in the style of its houses and streets and in its general air, i ^ike the British colonial towns found in so many parts of the world. In the early days the Bluff was used for shooting or for pedestrian exercise ; now it is covered by the beautiful residences of foreigners. Some of the hospitals and consulates are also located here. Indeed, natives are not allowed to live here un- less they are in the employ of foreigners ; and foreigners are not allowed to live elsewhere unless they are in the employ of natives. Formerly English and French soldiers were posted on the Bluff for the protection of their respective countrymen ; but the progress of civilization and the cultivation of friendly relations with the Japanese have made it unnecessary to furnish protection of this kind. Many of the residences on the Bluff are charmingly located, are superb in themselves, and are in the midst of tasteful u A SUNDAY IN YOKOHAMA ^55 gardens. A little beyond the residences are the rifle-range and the race-conrse. The native town stn tches alonj:;' the water front north w., id an H ^ 'ii !'* \i l\fi interior is wide open to public inspection. Here is a tailor earnestly at work to complete a g-ar- ment for which he will gtt only a trifle ; here is a cooper industriously toiling ; here is a black- smith almost without clothing-, sitting down while he hammers the iron ; and here is a woman mending clothes, another washing vege- tables, and a third dressing her children, — a very simple process, — all exposed to the public gaze. Another peculiarity is that places and things are known to the guides and coolies by numbers. The Grand Hotel is No. 20 ; call that number and away goes your jiiirikisha man. Every dish on the bill of fare in your hotel is numbered, and the bill is printed in English. The waiters are little Japanese men with black tights and different kinds of sandals. Thcv understand some English, but in order to avoid mistakes it is a decided gain to look over the bill, select what you wish, and then give the waiter the numbers. He runs off, repeats the numbers, and soon returns with what you have ordered. These people are our antipodes ; we would, therefore, expect them to do things very differently from ourselves, and this they certainly do. Indeed, they do almost everything in the opposite way from our method. They draw a plane toward them ; so with a saw% and its teeth are set with that fact in mind. They mount their horses on their right and not on their left side ; and in serving they reverse our methol Other illustia- tions might be given of the characteristics of this remarkable people. \ \. K-"* JAPAN S ANCIKNT PI^ACKS 159 A Typhoon. — Durin*.; our first days in Japan following Liie first Suni.lay the rain fell iri tor- rents. It seemed almost as if the heavens were the month of a river, and the wind blew in a perfect hurricane also. On Monday night, while returning from the generous table and hospita- ble home of Mr. H. MacArthur, a cosmopolitan Scotchman well known in the business and social life of Yokohama, it seemed as if the deluge were to be repeated. The next day a typhoon {taifun^ great wind) burst upon the city, and no small amount of damage was done. There were a number of landslides in the city and elsewhere on the railways, and many trains were derailed and a number of lives lost. Junks of many kinds were thrown on shore and wrecked, and the papers later reported that not fewer than twelve thousand houses on different islands had been blown down. The air was robbed of much of its vitality during the prevalence of the typhoon, and one felt like his linen — limp, helpless, worthless. But Mr. Bennett braved the storm to secure needed passports. Those from one's own govern- ment are useless except as they assist him in getting passports from the Japanese authorities. Perhaps in four }ears they will not be necessary ; then the existing treaties will be revised. But now for interior trips they are absolutely es- sential, as much so as in Russia. There are only a few free ports, as Yokohama, Kobe, Osaka, Na- gasaki, Nugata, and Hakodate. Treaty regula- tions allow foreigners to go and come at pleasure '. .* m 'I I :i .1:. r i I ,e. i, 'I ■/' / I 11 f' 1 60 AROUND THE WORLD within a certain radins of these cities ; but if the law were to be strictly enforced a ticket could not be bought at a railway station for the inte- rior, and not even the humblest innkeeper could give lodging to a stranger unless he could show his passport. No wise traveler will make any effort to evade tlie strict observance of the law. Formeviy passports were issued only by the foreign office at Tokyo, but now there is a com- missioner at Yokohama who furnishes them when application is made through the diplomatic representative of the applicant's nationality. It is expected that the passport will be returned to the proper authority when the tourist has no further use for it. It is not now, as formerly, neces- sary to name in the passport all the places which the tourist wishes to visit ; a general passport gives the necessaiy permission. All these de- tails Mr. Bennett kindlv arranged and in his excellent company our first trip was made. It is fitting to say at this point that Japan is reasonably well furnished with railways ; just at this time, however, they were somewhat inter- rupted in their regular trips by the necessity of transporting soldiers, l)ecause of the exigencies of war. The main line runs from Tokyo to Kobe, a distance of three hundred and seventy- six miles. There are also a number of roads under the direction of private companies, so that in all there are more than two thousand miles of railway, the government owning about one- quarter of the whole. With the exception of three hundred and fifty miles all the roads are ' I Ni \'> JAPAN'S ANCIENT PLACES l6l on the main island. The cars are su<"^^ as one meets with in Great Britain and on .^le conti- nent of Europe. Kamakura. — Kamakura is about fourteen miles from Yokohama and is reachable either by jinrikisJias or by rail ; we went by rail. The journey took us along tlie borders of the bay to Kaneg-awa, the original foreign settlement ; then we passed througli numerous rice fields, now so deep under water, because of the recent rains, as to cause great anxiety regarding the harvest. Soon we reached the present village. Once there was here a large city ; for nearly three hundred years it was the political capital of eastern Japan. It was the seat of ^\\q. Minomoto family ; and Yoritomo, who established the sho- gunate in 1192, made it his capital. Kyoto was the seat of the emperor, but only the nominal capital. It will be remembered that the shogunate was a form of feudal govern- ment ; it practically usurped the functions of the emperor. He was a sc-^t of a deity who lived in seclusion and the shogun was a military leader whose office was hereditary. The authority of the shogun did not cease until 1868, and the transfer of power from the shogun to the emperor is one of the most remarkable events in nioderu history. The Yokugawa rule was established by the great leyasu, and in 1868, for the first time in hundreds of years, the emperor became emperor in fact as well as in name. Tn the da)'S of its glory the city of Kamakura extended all Mil 'i\ 'A I ifi r : » l62 AROUND THE W'^RLD VI ■ t f. ,; .h k i P ^ ■' '■' I' '. ii't ifii ii I r fi ll over the plain and into the valleys among the surrounding hills. It is believed to have con- tained then a population of at least a million ; now it is a quiet seaside village with a few tea- houses and scattered native dwellings. At this point on the seashore the IMongol ambassadors of Kublai-Khan, who had been sent to demand the submission of Japan, were beheaded. Kamakura was repeatedly sacked and burned ; and it never fully recovered from the disasters of the war of 1455. Finally the city of Odawara rose into importance as the seat of the Hojo family and drew away most of the remaining inhabitants of Kamakura. At first thought it seems strange to us that so great a city could be swept away and leave almost no traces of its existence ; but we must bear in mind that, like all Japanese cities, it was built mostly of kin- dling wood and rice paper. There were no deep foundations, no durable materials, and a great fire, or the flight of years would soon leave no trace of a city. How unlike Rome, Athens, Jerusalem, and the scores of great ci;' > whose ruins are now exciting the interest 01 11 antiquarians. The Shinto temple of Hachiman, one of the deified heroes of Japan, is an object of much interest. This temple is on a plateau reached by many steps and dates from the twelfth cen- tury. Its position at the end of a long avenue of pine trees is very commanding. But the great object of interest here is the Dai Butsu, or Great Buddha. This statue has a supreme place in Japanese ecclesiastical art. It is of bronze, is m 'I japan's ancient tracks 163 forty feet lllg^li and tlliieiy-seVeii feei 111 clrcuin- fereiice. It seems to stand in the nave of a ca- thedral whose walls are grand hills and camphor and icho trees. There was an earlier image here of wood, which was destroyed in a tempest. Then this one was erected, having been bcgnn ill 1252. Once there was a temple over the image, bnt the sea swept in and destroyed it in 1494, since which time the great fignre has been exposed to all the elements. Within it there is a sort of chapel into which devotees and tonrists may go. Its walls are covered with bits of papers on which prayers are written. No one can tell how so enormons an atnonnt of bronze was cast, nor how the image was placed in posi- tion. The eyes are said to be of pure gold, and the boss on the forehead, weighing thirty ponnds, is of silver. Snails are crawling np over the head, but so profound is Buddha's contemplation that he knows not of their presence. For at least six hundred years this great image has represented profound contemplation. Tidal waves have carried away the temple ; earth- quakes have shaken his firm base, but there he still stands. In front of him are the chests for offerings, the shrine for incense, the inseparable lotus leaves and the water for ablutions. The great thought set forth by this statue is that which is the central idea of Buddhism, the absolute calm which comes from deep thought and the mastery of pas^^ion. In this respect tiiis Japanese sphinx is worthy of consideration, and this is perhaps its only merit as a work of art. f. M \l If m I, H\ TV M '" 'J ■ '1 /I « . ■ ' i ! i ll. R ■/ ■^"•. ' ' \\i 6 .:(■ 'II I'" ft y % 1; '!) 1 I'* 'iV III [I 164 AROUND THE WORLD Tourists are sometimes photographed while groups of them sit on Buddha's thumb or stand near his feet. There are several other small temples near, with attendant priests ; some museums contain- ing relics, and a good hotel called the Kaihin- In, or seashore hotel. To the latter place we went and had a good dinner. Then a walk through the woods to the shore, then we went back to Yokohama, not taking in Enoshima, attractive though this island is. This was a somewhat tiresome, but very profitable trip, and Dai Butsu will long live in the memory. Northward to Nikko. — vStill kindly accom- panied by Rev. A. A. Bennett, the journey to Nikko was taken. Re/, and Mrs. H. Loomis and their children were also of our party. They were going to Nikko to live for two months in their " own hired house." Mr. Loomis is con- nected with the work of the Bible Society in Japan. His knowledge of and interest in Chris- tian work in the empire are great. He was full of gratitude that the military authorities had given perfect freedom to dis- tribute the Scriptures throughout all the hos- pitals and garrisons in Japan. The commander- in-chief of the Imperial Guard, Prince Komatsu, a cousin of the emperor, and now commander- in-chief of the Japanese army, gave his approval to the work and expressed his thanks for the good which the Bible societies are doing. The vice-minister of war, Major General Kodama, sent ' :((:. A ;■ % japan's ancient places 165 to the agent in charge of the field a letter for each of the division commanders, instructing them to give their personal assistance to the work of distributing the Scriptures to the men under their command. In this way many thou- sands of copies were distributed, and eternity alone will tell how much good was done. It is not too much to say that in this respect a new epoch in Christian work has opened in Japan. The reports published by Mr. Looniis show that during the quarter ending June 30, 1895, eighty- six thousand two hundred and fifty-five Bibles were sold by colporters, commission sellers, and through ether channels. Every Christian must rejoice in these grand results, and especially in their prophetic significance. Mr. Looniis was deeply interested in a Chinaman and a Korean, both of whom may soon help to make, or at least to give interpretations to, international law. Their cases may not yet be discussed in the public prints. Characteristic views of Japanese villages greeted us, and we passed through many miles of rice fields. We saw numerous illustrations of pears being trained on trellis work as are the vines in Italy. But for such supports, the trees would be utterly broken down in the great typhoons. We had occasional views of the Hakone and other ranges of mountains, and ever and anon we had glimpses of Fujiyama, lifting its snow-capped head proudly over the other mountains, either into ihe clear blue or into overhanging clouds. This mountain is the ;:. 'V s I 1, i V. I': 1 66 AROUND THE WORLD crowninj:;^ ^'oJ'y o^ Japan. From the surround- ing sea, as well as from many parts of the empire, it can be seen in its symmetry and majesty. We pass many places of interest, change trains, and are finally on the branch road to Nikko. Not far distant is the smoking summit of Nasunoyama. Then come the Nikko mountains ; then on each side of the highway the lines of grand old cryptomeria, Japanese cedar trees, extending for many miles. The town of Nikko consists of one long street of typical country Japanese houses, weather-beaten, moss-covered, low and open to the street. We found a place at the Nikko hotel, and there met Rev. Dr. Guido F. Verbeck, who has been thirty-six years a missionary in Japan. He is a man of whose life and work a volume might well be written. He was born in Holland in 1830, had an interesting career in the United States, and now is a leading man in Japan. He is master of the Dutch, French, German, Eng- lish, Japanese, and other languages. In the June number of the "Japan Evangelist" there is a fine article on his character and services. He lost, by his long residence in Japan, his Hol- land citizenship, and he was not a citizen of the United States ; Japan, therefore, has given him a special passport, and also, because of his serv- ices to the government, the " Third class deco- ration of the Rising Sun." He is a warm friend of Mr. Bennett. Together they gave mc much valuable information regarding the Japanese government, history, and language, and i'ft)H>cially Vt' JAPAN'S ANCIKNT PLACKS 167 regarding^ missionary work in the empire. De- lightfnl were the days nnder the great monn- tains and noble trees, and beside the rippling waters at Nikko. The long walks and talks form pleasant memories. There is a Japanese proverb, " Nikko 7vo luinai tichi 7C'<7, '■ Kekko"* to in na^^^ which, being inter- preted, means, " Do not say magnificent till yon have seen Nikko." The town itself is abso- Intely nothing, bnt the great trees, the hills, the stream, the bridge, and the temples combine to make a pictnre so snperb as almost to jnstify the proverb. Nikko has been a sacred place from time immemorial, bnt its adoption as the bnrial place of the early shognns of the Yokngawa line gave it its chief historic significance and its present importance. There are no other tem- ples in Japan at all comparable to those of Nikko. Natnre has beantifnlly combined with art in making the place nniqnely pictnresqne. The first Bnddliist temple was bnilt in 767 by the great saint Shodo Shonin. Of no saint in the Roman categories are more miracnlons sto- ries told. He fonnd the place as the resnlt of a dream. Later the name of the hills was chancjed to Nikkosan, ^' Mountains of the Sun's Bright- ness," and then storms ceased and peace reigned. There is really a sort of religious air about Nikko ; the vicinity of the temple grounds is calm, hushed, dreamlike. No wonder that pilgrims, scholars, artists, and tourists, love to abide under the shadow of these great trees and in the com- panionship of these noble hills. . ' >' \:. 1 •( '|. ■ ',» i ( ;'i T* Jn 1 ' 1' li * y -I •'^ :( w. .r T'l '; U I 111; "Vli 1 68 AROUND TH1-: WORLD The Mi-Hash 1, or sacred bridj^^e, is an ol)ject of special interest. It is of red lacquer, and the contrast with the deep green of the cryptomcrias on the opposite bank is very tine. The bridge was built originally in 1638. It is supposed to mark the spot where Shodo Shonin, of allitera- tive name and traditional and superstitious fame, crossed the stream. It was long closed to all except the shoguns and pilgrims twice a year. Connnon mortals cross the stream on a bridge about one hundred feet below. This bridge per- fectly suited our modest ambitions. It was pro- posed to General Grant, when on his visit to Japan, that the sacred bridge be thrown open to him, but he declined the offer with thanks and crossed on the lower bridge. The tomb of the great leyasu crowns the temple height. The body was brought here in 161 7, imperial envoys, priests, daimios, captains, and nobles taking part in the ceremony. leyasu was deified by a decree of the mikado under a name meaning " Light of the East, great incar- nation of Buddha." Massive granite ^orn\ the symbol of Shintoism, mark the entrance to the grounds. But time and space fail to tell of the magnificent bronze lanterns, the cistern for holy water, the bronze candelabrum presented b>- the king of Loo-Choo and that presented by Holland ; of the five-storied pagoda, graceful and lofty ; of the tree guarded by the stone railing, the very tree leyasu carried about in a flower-pot when he went abroad in his palanquin ; of shrines, of bell towers, rich carvings, horrid ogres, superb Ik \ 1^ il' \ I, JAPAN'S ANCIENT i'l^ACKS 169 decorations almost rivaliiifr those of the Al hanihra at (jraiiada , of the sleep! n<( '\it over which Japanese priests become niysterionsly and stnpidly enthusiastic ; of the fahuhjus l)easts and the impossible men in niches; of the silly old woman, a dancin^^ jjriestess, who lor a few small coins would execute gyrations worthy of an Kj^vptian dervish, and of many other thiiig.s quaint and queer. Are they not all to be seen under those .i^rand trees, and an they not all described at length in elaboiate books on Japan? i m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 125 bills 1^.5 ~^ lis 2.0 1^ liiM 1.4 11 1.6 III V] <^ /a W/ 7 >V 'V '/ % r y// Photographic Sciences Corporation f\ •NJ V> 23 WEST MAIN STR.ET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 6^ i^s ^"'4^. vV 5^ m '« I XIV TO THE " KASTERN CAPITAL ?» WE had to take the train at 7.30 A. m., and dashed np in grand style with q>\\x jinrik- ishas at an hour which, for one tourist at least, was early. Off for Karuizawa. — The ride was one of eleven hours, as we had to change trains often, wait long at stations, and make many zig-zags in our journey. Along the line of railway women were seen to perform most of the hard work ; they were digging in the rice fields, ditching, driving to the markets, or riding astride their little ponies. Women have a hard time in Japan. A nation's treatn.ent of its women is the best proof of its degree of civilization, and judged by this standard Japan has far to travel yet before it can come up to American civilization. We slowly climbed the mountains, going through many tunnels, — by the way, the Japs have adopted the word tunnel, — and finally we reached the Karuizawa station. Awaiting us were Rev. and Mrs. Bearing, Rev. and Mrs. G. W. Taft, and Rev. and Mrs. W. J. White, Doctor Patterson, of China, and other friends. Mrs. Taft is the daughter of Rev. Wil- 170 TO THE "EASTKRN CAPITAL" 171 Ham Hiimpstone, and the sister of Rev. Doctor Humpstone, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. White was fornieriy Miss Eva J. Mnnson, of Yonkers. She was afterward supported in Japan by the Madi.son Avenue Church, New York. Mr. White is now most usefully connected with the Tract Society. He spoke in Calvary Church a few years ago. We were a happy group as we walked toward the Japanese vacation home of Mr. and Mrs. Taft, where the writer enjoyed his dinner after his long ride. This village is far up among the mountains. Once it lay on the line of a famous pass, over which daimios and shoguns used to go with their retainers. When the railway was built trade left the village, but now foreigners come here for their holiday season, and rent houses and bring trade and money to the old town. The natives for a time looked upon them askance, but now they bring so much profit to the place that their presence is endured, if not welcomed. Doll-like were the Dearing and Taft vacation homes. The whole front of the house opens, and the screens slide and all the rooms become one room. The floors are covered with matting so clean that he is not to be pitied who sleeps or eats on the floor. Some of the y .merican gen- tlemen always took off their shoes before enter- ing a room. One feels almost as discourteous to be sitting in such a house with boots on as he would at home if sitting in a parlor with a hat on. The floor is the seat of the Japanese ; why should you put your booted feet on it any more u k 172 AKOUXD TIIIC WOKM) '. '( : 7 -;:^ 1} >^' r I \'k than you would put thcni on n silk chair at home? Verily there are worse customs thau taking off one's boots before going into marble, wooden, and carpeted halls. Politener.s is second nature to the Japanese ; prince and coolie alike possess a spirit of courtesy, and some Ameruans could learn useful lessons at these points from these Oriental Yankees. There are three kinds of hotels in Japan, the European, the half-Kuropean and half-Japanese, holcni^ and the purely native inn, yadoya^ or /latai^oya. ]\ly hotel was of the half and half order. My room was separated by a paper screen, and not thick paper it would seem, from the ad- joining room, occupied by two estimable women missionaries from Formosa. They were lovely ladies, without doubt, but I should have been glad Lo have had them a little more securely separated from their neighbor. Doubtless they had similar thoughts. If one sneezed at night he felt as if he were shaking and waking the whole house. Such thinness of walls and close- ness of proximity have their disadvantages. The curiosity of the Japanese children when foreign- ers are in their village is so great that they wet their fingers, apply them to the paper, and then place their eye to the aperture. In this case there were no children on either side of the screens ; still, thicker walls have their advan- tages. There were many missionary workers at Ka- ruizawa ; they were from Korea, Formosa, China, and all parts of Japan. Those in my own special TO TIIK "KASTKRX CAPJTAl. M circle I have named. The Anglican bishop of Japan, Doctor Bickerstcth, was there ; so were members of the British and American Icj^ations. All denominations meet for common worship except the Anglicans and the American Kpisco- palians ; they, except in a few cases, attend a service of their own in a private honse. The Anglican bishop signs himself, "Edwin, Japan," and this assnmption, it is said, is as distastefnl to the government anthorities as it is nnfraternal toward other religions workers. Bishop Doane, of Albany, nsed to sign himself, "William, Al- bany." An Episcopal rector who was something of a wag, so the story goes, said to him : " If yon shonld remove to Buffalo would vou call vour- self ' William, Buffalo ' ? " " Certainly," said the bishop. "Ah," said the rector, "I see, yon would then be BufTalo Bill." The bishop's reply is not recorded. Bishop Bickerstcth causes many good Christian workers to smile as they think of his assumption. Tlie rain poured in torrents all day Sunday, but the writer preached both morning and even- ing to this strangely representative audience. It was an occasion which he will not readily for- get. Happy hours those were at the homes and tables of brethren Taft, Bearing, and White. How we talked of 1)rethren at home, of news- papers, theological seminaries, drifts of thought, methods of work, and many, many other things. How precious at times home seemed ; how eyes became moist and voices a little choked as we talked, off there among the hills of Japan, of those r- iiT ■ill ' I |: ■H 174 AROUND TIIK WORLD y , ' t^ !i separated from us by so many miles of sea and land. Christ was exalted anew in our conversa- tion and enthroned afresh in our hearts. That was a deeply interesting; group that came to the train to say "good-bye," and more than once it was difficult to say more than a small fraction of what the heart felt. Mr. Bennett and the visitor hast.'^ned on to Tokyo, and soon had a hearty welcome from our dear friends, Rev. and Mrs. J. C. Brand. A Glimpsk of Tokyo. — Charming was the hospitality of Rev. and Mrs. Brand. Mr. Brand was active in religious work in New York when Mr. Varley held his great meetings there about 1872. Mr. Brand was then a Presbyterian, as he had been in his native Scotland. At the time of Mr. Varley 's visit, and partly because of some of his expositions of Scripture, Mr. Brand saw that it was his duty to be baptized. Rev. Robert Cameron, then of New York, baptized him. Later he did excellent evangelistic w'ork at Niagara Falls and elsewhere, in connection with the New York Baptist State Convention. He has many kind words to say of Dr. J. B. Calvert's relations to him and the work at that time. Mrs. Brand was formerly Miss Clara A. Sands. She is one of our most experienced and successful missionary workers in Japan. Her knowledge of the Japanese language, as of many otiier things connected with the work, makes her a most valuable helper to her husband in this great field. A birthday was celebrated while TO THIC "KASTKRN CAPITAL " 1/5 here, and the thonp^htfiil hosts remembered it in pracefnl and delicate ways. A beantifnl liaptist circle was fonnd in Tokyo. Of Mr. and Mrs. Taft I have already spoken. There were also Professor K. W. Clement, his wife and mother; Rev. C. H. I). Fisher, wife and children ; Miss Anna H. Kidder, Miss M. A. Whitman, and Miss A. M. Clagett. The last three I visited at their work in the Sarah Curtis Home. After dinner at Professor Clem- ent's we repaired to Mr. Fisher's home, where a goodly company, representing several denomina- tions and countries, was gathered, and there the writer preached. Hearty were the greetings, kindly the hearts, and prolonged the social hours at the close of the informal address. Professor Clement is preparing to open an academy for boys. A fine house has been se- cured, and the work promises well. There are no more difficult questions in foreign mission work than those which belong to the proper conduct of schools. It is taxing the wisest thought in all denominations. The school ques- tion in the States, in Canada, and all over the world, is one of the questions of the hour. For the brethren and the sisters in Tokyo kindest wishes will be cherished and heartiest prayers offered. Tokyo means "the eastern capital." It is comparatively a modern city. When the new regime began in 1868 it was called Yedo. In the time of the shogunate, certain officials were obliged to live in Yedo six months each year, \ t' ■'i\. il u. ■il 1^ '1^' 176 AROUND TIIK WOULD and ill tines of war their families were sent tliere as pledj^es of loyalty to the shogiin. When the mikado went there from Kyoto he took pos- session of the shoji;^un\s castle. The city was then thrown open to forcij^ners in 1868, bnt they arc restricted in their residence to the district known as the istikijiy or " reclaimed land." Tokyo is a city of magnificent distances. It covers an area of about one hundred square miles, contains two hundred and twenty thou- sand houses, such as they are ; three thousand two hundred temples, such as they are also; and, including the metropolitan district, has a popu- lation of one million six hundred thousand, but the city proper probably has fewer than one million. It is a disappointing city. One grows insuf- ferably weary of its niterminable rows of low, weather-beaten houses, many of them no better than the squatters' homes in New York, which we call shanties. Men like Percival Lowell and Sir Edwin Arnold are, in their painfully extrava- gant descriptions of Japan, the enemies of Japan. The former's description of the Ginza, a very decent street for u Japanese city, is simply ridicu- lous. A visit to its shops, which he describes as so attractive, makes both him and them lu- dicrous. I h ASAKUSA. — Under the guidance of Mr. Brand a visit was made to Asakusa, now a part of Tokyo. Here we saw heathenism fully illus- trated. Worshipers were coming and going in ■11 TO THE "KASTKRN CAPITAL ?» 17; a constant stream. Tlicy ranji^ a bell to attract the attention of the god ; they chewed bits of paper and hrew them at the wire screen. If one ont of tl ree went throngh and hit the hideons image the prayer was answered. We saw wor- shipers rub their hands on another hideons image and then rub them on the part of their own body wliere there was a pain. The image's nose was all rubbed away by the ]:)rocess. In the yard there was a sacred horse, kept for some temple purpose, like the sacred bulls in India. It was all very pitiful and very abominable. The Japanese are an intelligent people, and yet here was idolatry as real and degrading as the fetich worship of African savages. Still, one may see this idolatry almost paralleled in Russian churches; one may see Romanists in New York showing a similar superstition about an alleged bone of an alleged saint's arm. Indeed, Bud- dhism constantly reminds one of Romanism. Did space permit, some discussion of Shinto- ism and Buddhism might be profitable. We visited Ueno Park, with its shrines, mu- seums, and statues ; the pagoda at Shiba Park and some of its temples, as well as the observa- tion tower at Asakusa. But these temples, sur- rounded by bazaars, booths, penny games, cheap shows, shops, and photograph galleries, are a weariness to the flesh and spirit. There is one shrine at which a prayer-wheel can be seen. Compared with the groves, mountains, streams, and stillness at Nikko, this was all very cheap, tawdry, and idolatrous, even in an idolatrous M 1I i iJ I ! WUmtHH^iOitiUHa KVOICV •>•-•- =• p k\ 1/'. 1 < i ( n: l.E'' // , « h 178 AKOIXD TIIK WORM) country. Many of the newer government l)nilcl- injjs in Tokyo are really fnie, and would he so considered even in a luiropean city. The sooner the day of the genuine Japanese houses is over the better. It would he l)etter to tike the risk of dyin^ in a modern house overthrown hy an earthquake than to die of the monotony of these rows of shanties. Back to Yokohama. — The p;ood-hyes were said and we were off for Yokohama again, stop- ping on the way, however, to visit tlie tonihs of the forty-seven Ronins, whose romantic devotion fills a large place in the traditional history of Japan and even in the daily life of the people. It is said that during the late war many soldiers went to these graves to say some sort of prayers in the hope of catching the spirit of these so- called heroes. It seemed somewhat like home to get back again to Yokohama. Many letters had to be written, various social courtesies re- turned, and some preparations made for going to Kobe, and so finally for leaving Japan. It was a great pleasure to meet Dr. and Mrs. Ashmore at the home of Mr. H. AlacArthur, whose wife is Mrs. Ashmore's daughter. Dr. Ashmore gives all who meet him not only stir- ring and accurate information on many and varied subjects, but he gives an almost irresist- ible inspiration toward all that is true and Christlike. May his noble life long be spared ! A cherished purpose was accomplished in meet- ing Col. John A. Cockerill, who is in Japan i > h I- TO TIIK "HASTKRN CAI'ITAI. . m to represent tlie New York J/rm/,/. IIis1k-t- ters to that p.iper are very valualjle. He lias becoine an autliorityon all matters pertainin^r to the late war and on many other Japanese snb- jects. He writes fairly re I^^^^^-^ '"'-^v 'eome '1 nt with a staneh ship in the open sea there is a good chanee of safety. The proverb ^^ard „:' the typhoon season says : *.^^u"i^ June, too soon, July, stand by, August, you must, September, remember, October, all over. Well some cannot stand by. We must eo forward, trusting Him who holds wi^ds and waves nnder his control. The distance fm ?red mn^. ' ^T/^ """^^ ^^ "^''^^•^>' ^^--" '--- W f ^''"'^^l'^ '^^y-'^-^ t««^ between three Eastern %t?'\l "^^ ^^""^' ^"'^ "-'' ^ t^- pastern Sea; then we traversed the strait of Formosa ; then came a stretch of nearlv three h indred miles across the Nan Hai, or Sonthern Uiina Sea. Ning-po, Foo-choo-foo, Amoy, and Swatow he along the coast, bnt too far awav o be seen. Bnt here on the eastward of onr course IS Formosa, Japan's recent acquisition, which she IS paying a high price in blood and treasure ully to possess. Formosa contains an area of twelve thousand eight hundred and fifty square miles having an area a little larger than tffof the States of Massachusetts and Connecticut Semi-savage clans people the island, but some t'l ) ' m If: ■'*, I, 190 AROUND THE WORLD day it will add greatly to Japan's revenues. These waters have often been described as the graveyard of commerce, but we had a very favor- able voyage. On the afternoon of August twelfth we drew near to the picturesque shores of China. The steamer threaded its way through the narrow lyy-ee-moon Pass separating the island from the mainland, and at about 9 o'clock p. m. it reached the roadstead in front of this far-away and fa- mous British colonial city. Hong Kong. Its lights flashed brilliantly before us and made the quiet waters resplendent with their various colors. .* ■r n ', XVI japan's progress NOTWITHSTANDINO her handicaps, Ja- pan has made wonderful progress, a progress which is one of the marvels of our century, perhaps of civilization. During the past decade there has been a greater propor- tional development of the cotton-spinning in- dustry than in any other country. In 1888 there were twenty-four mills in operation and one hundred and fourteen thousand spindles ; in 1895 she had fifty-eight factories and eight hundred and eighty-three thousand spindles, and fifty-five of these factories produced over one hundred and fifty million pounds of yarn. Elec- tric lighting and power plants have been con- structed. In 1870 the first railway was opened ; in 1895 there were two thousand six hundred and eighty-one miles in operation. In 1869 the first telegraph line was erected ; in 1 891— the last re- port accessible — over four million messages were sent through the empire and abroad. Schools of all grades were opening ; there were thirty thousand common and many technical schools. There were seven hundred and sixty-seven news- papers and magazines—agricultural, educational, scientific, and religious. From 1868 to 1881, 191 7. I< ifl'U !' VJ; I 'I: \i I '% 192 AROUND TIIK WORLD inclusive, the l)alancc of trade against Japan was, on an average, five million nine hundred and thirteen thousand yen a year ; from 1882 to 1891 the balance was in favor of Japan, on an average, four million one hundred and fifty-thousand seven hundred yen a year. This projT;ress has only begun. Japan has just begun to feel her power. Americans will yet be building great factories in Japan, and she will be a rival of the United States notwithstanding high duties. There is, therefore, the more need that in this morning of her new life Christianity should be enthroned. In industrial progress and commer- cial achievement Japan will soon take her place with the great nations of the world, and she will in all probability have many interests in com- mon with Great Britain and the United States, and will be in some form of alliance with them in relation to Russia and other great powers. Japanese Missions. — This subject interested me more than all other topics, and, although it has already been mentioned, the subject is worthy of a fuller reference. Protestant mis- sions are comparatively recent in the empire. The great political revolution of 1868 marked an intellectual regeneration. The late war dis- tracted thought and monopolized eflort, and it demanded in the field the presence of many of the Christian laymen and some of the evange- lists. Thus the work in some mission stations was much retarded, but there were marked com- pensations. Opi^ortunities were given under the japan's pkoc.rksh 193 tf appi" al of th( it for (listrihutintr ti hs . [^overniiK Hil)lc amoiin; the soldiers ; many Japanese Cliris- tian soldiers had peculiarly excellent chances to witness for Christ, and the Christian soldiers as a whole proved to be so brave, so oljedient, so loyal, and so trnstworthy, that Christianity won as glorious a victory as did Japan. Indeed, in a very real sense Christianity was on trial in this war, and superbly did it bear the test. I have met some men from the Baptist schools who were brave soldiers for the empire of Japan and the king^dom of God. I have talked with Christian workers of many denominations, and have tried to classify and formulate their replies to pointed questions. The number of missionaries in Japan seems to be large, but what are they among forty millions of people? This population is about two-thirds that of the United States. What could the hun- dreds of missionaries in Japan do if they were the only religious teachers in the American re- public? All are agreed that the standard of Christian living among the native church-mem- bers is constantly rising. They are subject to great trials Shall they close their shops on Sunday? '^.^hat is the day of most profitable trade. See those closed shops in that row of busy scores ! How eloquent is that silent testi- mony! Sunday is a holiday for many govern- ment employees, and then they v/ish to do their trading. Examples of superb heroism have be^^n given in many cases by Christian merchants. All are agreed also that since the war congrega- N 'I I ' / I ,i! '^ ilS^KsaSBBMHWW*'^^*"'"'' 194 AROUND TIN'; WORM) * •* . in I tions are incrcasinj;^, and in many instances the children of Christian converts are anionj^ wor- shipers and converts. Here is a distinct element of hope and power. Thk School Qukstion. — All Christian work- ers seem to he in abont eqnal perplexity re^ard- inp^ the proper condnct of schools. There is danj^er that the Christian schools will be secn- larized. Their stndents are at a disadvantaj^e at the universities and at the jrovcrnment offices. Ought there to be any schools in competition with the {general system of public instruction in an empire like Japan? Ought we to encourage students to continue to take advantage of our schools while they are avowedly licathen and propose so to remain ? In a word, the school question is the great modern question in nearly all countries. A very liberal theology is troubling some churches. The Congregational brethren are face to face with this trial and with other perplexi- ties somewhat related. The great difficulty in getting a usable knowledge of the language in preaching is common to all the workers. Some will never get this knowledge, but they can still do fairly good work through interpreters and in many personal ways. This great field is white unto the harvest. Work to-day will tell mightily in the near future. All seem to be agreed that we need to do a vast amount of distinctly evan- gelistic work, and also that we ought much more than in the past to use the press. The I !^fc,i.. ii r. ^■.»l= J AP.\N 's p kor, R r.ss 195 .'1 Japanese arc a rcadiu)^ people. Tlicse j^^roups of jiurikisha men, wlioiii we see on every liaiul, are all reading; their Ja])ancse pai)er while they wait for patrons. May the pierced hand of Jesns Christ speedily be put on the press of Japan ! We need no mediocre men here ; we want our brightest, best, and most consecrated. This is the " Land of the Rising Snn." We have noble Haptist men and women here. As a whole they are doing grandly amid many difficnlties. Se'dtm arc nobler women fonnd than arc these. They are in cnltnre, character, and consecration worthy of their positions and responsibilities. It was a joy to meet them. It will be a pleasing memory to recall the meetings with them in different parts of the empire. I tnrn away from Japan and hasten toward China, India, Palestine, and finally to America, bnt I can say in the words which are on Dr. Brown's tombstone, "God bless the Japanese." Several Japans. — Bishop Hendrix has re- cently called attention to the fact that there art at least three Japans. There is, first, Official Japan. This inclndes all the public buildings, such as customs, postal service, courts, educa- tion, police, legislative and executive depart- ments of the government, and their officers. All these buildings ignore the old Japan and her unique type of architecture. The officers of the government, whether civil, military, or naval, wear foreign dress. They are so uniformed that one can readily tell to what branch of service il 196 AROUND THE WORLD they belong-. Many of them speak English or French, and were educated in foreign countries or under foreign teachers brought to Japan. Foreign dress, manners, and customs are affected by this class of Japanese. Official Japan is striving to imitate the characteristics of Euro- pean countries in things both great and small. Official Japan is ambitious for the future of the country and for its good name among Eu- ropeans. It is striving to compel the peasantry to wear fuller clothing. It has also largely abolished the custom of promiscuous bathing on the part of the sexes, and it has controlled many of the barbarous tendencies of the earlier dav. It has done much also to remove the offensive clauses of treaties and to bring Japan into touch with the great nations of Europe. Official Japan is courteous to foreigners. It is turning its back toward the'early conservatism and its face to- ward the hopeful progress characteristic of the hour. It is making a careful study of commerce, war, education, and diplomacy. It has not adopted the Christian faith, but it has largely broken with the old heathen superstitions. It is proud, hopeful, brave, and sometimes boast- ful. It has great possibilities and it is not free from certain dangers. The same writer calls attention also to Old Japan. This Japan is as devoted as ever to its idolatries and ancestral shrines. It is divided between Shintoism and Buddhism. It is indus- trious and patriotic, but devoted to old customs and habits. It still bows before its shrines, burns \i i ■ japan's progrkss 197 incense, makes its " dead boats," and still seeks to propitiate the fox, as did past generations. Its worshipers are found not only in rural dis- tricts but in the large cities. Costly shrines are found in the homes and business places of wealtliy merchants, even in the treaty ports. Heathenism is found in Japan still, as truly de- graded and besotted as can be seen in southern India. The lavish expenditure once made upon the temples has now in great part ceased, but voluntary contributions are still made by the common people for the support of slirines, tem- ples, and altars. It is true that not many new temples are in building, but it is also true that almost all parts of the country are well supplied with temples already built. One imposing Buddhist temple has been built in Kyoto within the past few years. Bishop Hendrix calls attention to the fact that its mass- ive timbers were lifted to their places by means of hair ropes, for the manufacture of which three hundred thousand Japanese women con- sented to have their tresses shorn. These ropes are still shown as evidences of loyalty to the worship of Buddha. Old Japan still clings to ■.he former things and rejects the progress of Official Japan, even in its most brilliant achieve- ments. The mass of the people belong to Old Japan. They are not reconciled to the presence of foreigners, and will have nothing to do with their dress, food, customs, or religion. Chris- tian England and America send improved cotton mills and other forms of machinery, but the "1 '(' 198 AROUND THK WORLD »;■'< ' »r Japanese who work in these mills still retain their idolatry even while they take advantage of the inventions of Christianity. Bi.t there is also a Christian Japan ^ as the same writer has well pointed ont. This is as yet but a small part of the empire, but it has already greatly influenced Official Japan. There are about forty thousand members of the Christian Japanese churches. They have more than four hundred churches, and many of them are self- supporting. They have about thirty thousand Sunday-school scholars. The late war did nuich to increase the social and official influence of Japanese Christians. It had often been doubted whether in the case of a war Japanese Christians would be brave and loyal as were the heathen Japanese. Once it was feared that Christianity would denationalize the Japanese who accepted its doctrines. Many Japanese believed that those of their number who had embraced Christianity would be little better than foreigners in a war with the Chinese or any other nation, but it was found that there were no braver sol- diers than the Christian Japanese. It was not uncommon to hear the Japanese shout as they recognized the bravery of the Christians, " Long live Christians ! " Christianity has certainly gained a firm foothold in Japan. Its progress, however, will be necessarily slow, but access can now be had by Christian teachers to soldiers, sailors, policemen, and almost all classes of the Japanese. The chief of police in Yokohama has promised that every man under his control I if ',' I t ».'' JAPAN'S PROGRKvSS 199 ress, [can ters, the una Itrol shall receive a copy of the Bible. He has also promised to distribute two thousand copies of the Scriptures anion<:j the fallen women under his control. Admirals, field marshals, and police officers welcome Christian chaplains, and the chief of staff of the Imperial Guards expresses pleasure at the circulation of the Bible among all classes of people. Bishop Hendrix well remarks that " Sir Ed- win Arnold saw only one of these Japans." The new Japan is struggfling toward a hi<>^her sense of commercial honor, and is striving to make this country worthy of the confidence of all Christian nations. Japan needs a permanent Christian civilization. Japan stands on tiptoe with the light of Christianity falling on its up- turned face. China is hypnotized by gazing on its own dead past. Japan is inspired by gazing into its hopeful and brilliant future. Passports. — As already mentioned, passports are necessary for traveling in Japan outside of the treaty ports. Upon presentation of my American passport I was furnished with an an- nexed passport, giving permission to travel '"n the interior. This passport, it is expected, will be returned to the consul general of the United States of America at its expiration. The bearer of the passport is expressly enjoined to observe in every particular the directions of the Japanese government, printed in Japanese characters on the back of the passport, and also translated into English. It is expressly stated that the bearer !«♦* It- \l /'J' ' ' I K"' ■ If!' ^}r:n f| I •I Nl !'' 200 AROUND THK WORLD of the passport is " required to conduct himself in an orderly and conciliatory manner toward the Japanese authorities and people." The pass- port was granted for one year. I did not return my passport, as I wished to retain it as a curious souvenir of my Japanese tour. I suppose I could not procure another passport should I revisit Japan, not having returned this one ; but as the requirement of a passport probably will be modi- fied before I revisit that country, 1 did not feel greatly concerned regarding the return of this passport. Among the local regulaiions on the passports forbidding certain acts are the following, which arc strictly forbidden, " Attending a fire on horseback." If there is anything which I wanted to do in Japan it was to attend a fire on horse- back. Of this privilege I never have availed myself at home, and of course I wanted to enjoy it in Japan. Another prohibition is "scribbling on temples, shrines, or walls." It would be well if this prohibition could be observed in every country. There are ten of these local regula- tions, the last one being, " lighting fires in woods, or on hills, or moors." My Turkish as well as my American passport is a decided curiosity. Both are so covered with local endorsements as to be worthy of preservation as unique souvenirs of my journey. Some Japanese Words. — Throngh the cour- tesy of Rev. A. A. Bennett, of Yokohama, I am able to preseiic to readers some Japancse.com- :;'■• ti.. i^-' japan's PUOGRKSS 20I pounds of sha, ineanin^r vehicle or wheel • AV- s/ia {or joki-s/ia\ nieaiiiiijr steam-car ; jui-ri/ci-s/ia iiieaninc. man-power (yV;,, man, riki, power, s/ia\ wheel or carriage) ; da-s/ia, meanin.,ha meaning gim-carriage {ho, gun), a mounted can- non ; ^6^;^^'2.j/,^, meaning electric-car (denki electric. ^ ' ,f ;i, ,r v.^ ' XVII n ;! REUGIONS AND MORALS ' I ^HE Ainos are fetich-worshipers. The wo. L ship of the reproductive powers of nature and of ancestors has a lari;^e place in their idola- trous system. These beliefs also underlie both Shintoisni and Buddhism. fr iin IT 1 i'i-'j 1 u. m Native Religion. — Shintoisni was the ear- lier worship ; it is now the State religion. Buddhism was imported from India by way of China and Korea. There are nearly two hun- dred thousand Shinto shrines and temples and wayside chapels of all grades. The Buddhist temples are more marked by images and idola- trous observances. Buddhism was introduced in 552 A. D., from Korea, with its elaborate sys- tem of ethics, ritual, dogma, and scriptures. It soon threw the bald system of Shinto into the shade. Kobo, a profound scholar, in the beginning of the ninth century devised a scheme by which the older religion was swallowed up by the newer faith. He gave all the Shinto deities Buddhist names, and he appointed Buddhist liturgies for Shinto feasts and festivals. This new system turned the emperors into cloistered 202 i V,J Kl'JvKllONS ANH MOKAI.S 2/ p 4 Jr. r" ^"ii m ai £V • tw, .J^ K'll^ ;J'* • ■ (I if' r l1 V: i \: l<'< '■\'- U 204 AKOUND TIIK WORLD minister to Japan in 1859, but on account of ill- health resip^ned in 1861. He was a very able, and in many ways a typical, American. He did not hesitate sternly to rebuke the Japanese en- voys because of their deceptions. He died in New York, February 25, 1878. Lack of Morality. — The most intelligent and patriotic men in Japan fully realize that moral soundness is necessary to all true and permanent progress. Hence efforts have been made to remove many of the moral eyesores of the earlier heathen days. Visitors to Japan to- day see much which shocks their sense of mod- esty, but they, and even the new generation of Japanese, can scarcely believe in the existence of the sights so familiar to the first missionaries in that land. The grossness of the immorality of that day is now almost incredible. The most attractive portions of great cities were those given up to the worst forms of vice. Girls were, and to some degree still are, sold as slaves. Evil was publicly exhibited ; the most shameful ex- hibitions were utterly shameless. The most in- decent shrines were numerous along the roads in many provinces ; the most vulgar representa- tions were wrought into candy, porcelain, and faience. At temple festivals the grossest em- blems were publicly carried in parades. The !nost abominable performances were observed as a part of idolatrous processions. It is authoritatively affirmed that much of the popular literature of the time was utterly unfit RHUGIONS AND MORALS 205 for publication. The exposures going to and returning from the public baths are almost in- credible, and they are still occasionally seen. It is quite true that we ought not to judge them by our standards, as many of our ideas of pro- priety depend upon training and conventional- ism, but judged by any standard, these exposures were as objectionable as they are incredible. Perhaps the admittedly common practice of lying, often so needless, was due in part to the despotism and espionage of the feudal system, now happily passed away. The disregard for human life, the unquaran- tined small-pox patients roaming freely about, the miserable class called the Eta often cut down by the swords of the Samurai so that dead men often lay in the public highways, the horribly diseased who lay in wayside huts, the many victims of nameless diseases, these all were characteristic of the old days of heathenism in Japan. To help a man who was an Eta or a Haimin, even if he were drowning, was the ex- ception rather than the rule in the pre-Christian days. The ancient disqualifications on other religions than Buddhism ■•vere removed in 187 1. Then idolatry, immorality, and fearful diseases went hand in hand. Even children were famil- iar with the saddest sides of human life and sin. The distinguished Doctor Verbeck says that probably immorality is a more formidable ob- stacle to the progress of missions than idolatry considered in itself. The fact is, — and the sooner all recognize it if 1 ■ if *i "M 1^ 206 AKOUNl) TIIH WORMD the better, — idolatry in Japan, China, India, and throu\ \\ V I M PHCUIJARITIKS OK JAPAN 215 lareiuloii, e a room lirty feet, veranda, vice was rs. Staiii- louhtains iced hills 3tels are D dollars > in most ire little ne style iters are l^ent, and udes all 3re than 3nght to riety of lie were a genu- he floor let at a eating Irifle. rials of , bnt a e body string bfort of >sqnito annoy- ance from the other pest. The mosqnitoes were vastly worse in Honolnln ; often they are worse in New Jersey. From neither of these pests — and to both I am peculiarly sensitive — was there really any discomfort worth mentioning. Had there been a sojourn in a genuine native hotel a different report probably would have to be made. Our missionaries often suffer seriously from the wicked flea, which flees indeed, but bites nevertheless. Many missionaries carry some sort of flea bag with them, and also various powders and lotions, while on their journeys through country districts. Speaking of low prices^ I have learned that a man and his wife can be secured as servants, he deciding on the mcnu^ making the purchases and cooking the food, and she being waitress and maid of all work, and they " finding " them- selves, for the enormous sum per month for both of six to seven dollars in gold. Think of that, ye lordly Hibernians, with your brogue and bro- gans, who condescend to reign in our humble American homes. Truly, the United States, whatever the cause may be, is the paradise of workingmen and women. Think of buying an outfit, consisting of bath- room kimono, socks with the sep£.rate great toe, a sash, or obi^ and sandals, for one dollar and twenty-five cents. A Japanese young man or woman of the working class could dress well for fifty cents ; some of them probably dress for twent^'-five cents. But going a few steps higher, a good outfit can certainly be secured for two 'I' \ 'i 2l6 AROUND TIIK WORLD r IW* f {)' M ■ If' fit, '■ .Pi I k Hi B . t. f, T :.ii: dollars, or even somewhat less. The daily news- papers printed in English are a marked excep- tion to these low prices. The " Japan Mail " is warmly pro-Japanese, and the " Japan Gazette " is vigorously anti-Japanese. Both are sprightly and ambitious. They contain, however, but little reading matter, and each costs about four- teen cents. A morning newspaper at this price is a veritable luxury. Of course the circulation of these papers is small, but if the prices were smaller the circulation would be much larger. Europeans have to pay at nearly all the shops much higher prices than natives. Time is a small object in the Orient. A shopkeeper will chaffer long over a few cents, and he will ask often twice as much as he finally will take. It is humiliating to make purchases after this fashion, but if you do not dicker you will be cheated. Some shops now have adopted the one price system, but in any case when you get the lowest price most things are cheap. Labor is cheap ; humanity is cheap. Men, women, and children work in factories for a song. Chris- tianity gives dignity to labor, nobility to man- hood, honor to womanhood, and protection to childhood. All these things Japan much needs. Diminutive People. — The Japanese, as is well known, are very small. It seems almost certain that the habit of sitting on their heels for centuries has shortened their legs. Their shortness is in their legs rather than in their bodies. But although the army, officials gen- PPXUIJARITIKS Ol' JAPAN 217 erally, and many others have adopted Kiuopcan dress and many other European customs, it is still difficult for the people to learn to sit on chairs or seats of any kind unless they sit in some way on their feet. In European homes they will slip off the chairs, with the apology in winter that their feet and limbs are cold and some other apolo<^y in sumi .er, and drop on their heels on the floor. It is interesting^- to see a man and his wife enter a railway car. They slip off their sandals, put them partly under tlie seat, jump up on the seat, oracefully adjust their kimonos and squat on the seat facinj^ each other. Soon both will have their little pipes filled with tobacco, the pipe holdincr about enough tobacco for half a dozen puffs. The puffs are taken, tlie pipes refilled, and the process repeated a few times, but they never seem to smoke much. One wonders why the pipe is not made bigger if the smoker must have more than one pipe- ful. Probably the habit, and especially the method, of carrying the children on the backs of their mothers and of their still little brothers and sis- ters, has something to do with the size and form of their bodies. This practice may account for crooked legs and curved forms. The American Indians show greater wisdom in their method of carrying their children. The Japanese babies, while canied, have no proper support for back, head or legs. Often they are sound asleep while carried, and their heads fall backward or side- wise while the scorching sun falls on their ll if V ■41 4 »). i; i^''H- 1i '^f* li -' ^^ ' If' : •J I i'. ! 1^ /( ili I, h\ 2l8 AROUND THE WORLD unprotected heads and faces. It is often a won- der that their brains are not roasted. Many of the little mothers are mere children. One such rowed me to a steamer the other day. Her babe was asleep in the little cabin of the boat ; the mother was herself only a child. The babe awoke ; the mother stopped rowing, attended to its needs in various ways, then strapped it on her back and good-naturedly resumed her oar, the babe in the meantime looking wonderingly at the stranger. Japan must give additional honor to women if the nation is to have a high place among the great nations of the earth. No people can be great unless they have great and good mothers. Japan at this time of her mar- velous history cannot afford to dwarf her people, to dishonor her women, and so her men. Practically Slaves. — There is a class of women who are practically slaves. This gen- eral class will suggest to all thinking persons most difficult problems in all countries. It is really a question of fallen human nature. Japan has adopted a method of treating this unfortu- nate class, of controlling the social vice, which is practised in many cities of several countries and which now has been advocated in other countries. Of course this is not the place for any broad discussion of the question, but in Japan the system adopted results in most griev- ous social debasement. It cannot be passed over in these concluding notes without some slight notice. The traffic in question has legal sanc^ t ti' Ii \'! I M ; PKCULIARITIKS OK JAPAN 19 tion in Vienna, in Paris, and in some other cities ; but it is peculiarly abominable when con- trasted with many of the peaceful, gentle, and courteous aspects of Japanese domestic life. It would be easy to name cities in Japan in which there are public establishments whose young women are as truly slaves as are the Caucasian girls who are bought and sold for Turkish ha- rems. In Japan some parents sell their daugh- ters when mere children to be sacrificed on the altar of sin. Lately efforts were made to get a student in one of our schools for this purpose. These girls are formally registered and officially degraded and sacrificed. It is a terrible subject. God save the women of Japan, of America, of the world ! May all races be saved, exalted, and divinized ! ^:\ Politeness. — Politeness is second nature to the Japanese. Very young children are taught to manif'ist civility and to show respect. The spirit of courtesy marks prince and coolie alike. Villages are often excited with curiosity as they see strangers, but their curiosity is natural in the presence of foreigners, whose ways are to them so novel. Professor Chamberlain says : " Many travelers irritate the Japanese by talk- ing and acting as if they thought Japan and her customs were a sort of peep-show, set up for for- eigners to gape at." In many respects we might well imitate the example of gentle behavior and of cordial good nature set us by the Japanese. Their salutations are extraordinary. Some- :1^ ■ .1 -^1 220 AROUND THE WORLD times they are profound, deliberate, and even majestic. On the deck of our steamer two Japanese men in mature life and in j^ood cir- cumstances were parting. They bowed almost to the deck, bowed repeatedly, and remained bowed for a considerable time. It was fortunate for them that the boat was not ready to start else both would have been carried away. In a village I saw a young man kneel on the floor before a man who was presumably a local magis- trate and touch the matting several times with his forehead. I have been frequently discon- certed at our schools for girls and in meeting our church-niembers because of their prostra- tions and other salutations. There is danger that this will minister to European pride and to an unchristian spirit of caste. It is said that two coolies, each carrying two heavy baskets of fruit on bamboo poles on their shoulders, ran against each other on the street and spilled their fruit in every direction. For a moment they looked at each other aghast, and conflicting emo- tions seemed to strive for the mastery. Then they bowed low and often to each other and went to work with a will, each helping the other to gather up the fruit. Indeed, it is said that, strictly speaking, profanity is foreign to their language. Unfortunately, Europeans and "Christians" are teaching these people both vulgarity and profanity. The vanity of the women seems to manifest itself in attention to their dark and abundant hair. It is dressed elaborately. Saturated with v\ ^ << : PKCn.IARITlKS OI« JAPA>^ 2il 1 1' , ran their they emo- hen and the said n to and oth if est lant kith pomade, it is worked up into all sorts of shapes, made sometimes to look like a bird with out- spreading wiiij^s. One drt-ssinj^ will last for several days, the wooden pillows on whieh they rest their heads at nij^^ht not serionsly distnrb- in s pi-:cri,iARiTn':s or japan 223 :lito out rreat eii- 011 the the her , of course, picked students. Tliey certaiuly have won their full sliare of honors in our hij^hcst seliools of learning. Hut their own lan<;uaj;e is a serious drawback to them as well as to all our missionaries. In a recent article in a Japanese paper, referrinj>; to the address to which I have alluded, it is pointed out that the four thousand characters in the language must be mastered before a student can read an ordinary newspaper, and it is shown that accpiiring this knowledj^a* is an appalling waste of time and effort. The writer of the article claimed that there is noth- in<^ in these lauf^ua^^es valuable either in medi- cine, in mathematics, in philosophy, in poetry, or in religion ; that there is not a thought which has not been better expressed elsewhere ; that these hierojT^lyphics limit thouji^ht, fetter the imagination, and restrict the reason ; that they make the mind helpless as a caged eagle. No doubt this barbaric calligraphy is a great barrier to Japan's progress. She ought to come into the great family of nations using the Roman character ; then all foreigners could readily learn the language. The world would lose but little if all the literature in the old characters were de- stroyed. There is a society of the Japanese to encourage this idea, the Romaji Kwai. All our missionaries will welcome the introduction of the Roman character. They tell me that the use of the Chinese characters in conjunction with the Japanese is the most perplexing part of the study. Japan lias already borrowed too much from China. Let her now free herself • 1^. 1 h ^•^wafcifc.'- til H!*" fit I 'i I 224 AROUND THE WORLD from Lhe shackles of her barbaric infancy and come out with a Japanese language in the char- acters of the most enlightened nations of the earth. Another handicap pointed out in the address is the incompetency and unreliability of Japanese business men. Their word, according to well- nigh universal testimony, is untrustworthy. A case has recently come up in a Japanese court which illustrates this statement. It is affirmed that a Japanese firm, in dealing with a British house, will break its contracts when a change in prices makes a violation of contract a financial gain. The Chinese business men are more com- petent. They are found in banks and in the great houses of merchandise in places of trust, and the Japatese fear them. There are historical reasons for the defects of Japanese business men. Under the old regime the soldier was the man whom the people honored ; next to him was the manufacturer or artisan who made swords for the soldier ; next the farmer who raised grain to feed him, and far down the list were peddlers and merchants who merely sold goods. All this was reversed in China. There the soldier was despised, the merchant honored, and we see in the two nations to-day the results of these different standards of character and con- duct. But the Japanese merchant will improve. He must. He has to adapt himself to new con- ditions, and he is Yankee enough to learn soon, from policy if not from principle, how to do it. The third barrier named in the address is tiiC :^i If'" fl PECULIARITIES OF JAPAN 225 :y and 2 char- of the iddress panese ? vvell- ly. A ^ court fifirmed British mge in iiancial re com- in the I trust, fects of line the inored ; m who er who he list ly sold There nored, esults Id con- Iprove. con- soon, lo it. lis tiiC of the fj armaments disproportioned nues of the country. Japan's revenue is less than fifty million dollars. She hopes greatly 10 increase it when she has Formosa fully con- quered, but that result is still in the future. Granting that her revenue were one hundred million dollars, that would be a small amount to enable Japan to compete in the new world into which she is now entering. He was a fool- ish Japanese who said to Mr. Bennett and me the other day on the train, foolish though a university professor, "Japan can whip any two nations on the earth." Perhaps this bumptious spirit is inevitable just now, when the people are intoxicated with success, but it is just the spirit which true Japanese dislike. Great Britain spends yearly on her navy a sum nearly twice as large as the entire present revenue of Japan. She needs to cultivate modesty and all the arts of peace. She has a great future, and she must prepare for it by being in the highest sense a great, a fully civilized, and a thoroughly Chris- tianized people. Ml I ,;f }\i i . y- i) '■4) ' J > .1 kit i M I', ' 1 '1 ' I 1 1' H r XIX THE GIBRALTAR OK THE EAST HONG KONG might mean "Red Harbor"; if the form Hiang Kiang is adopted, the meaning will be "fragrant streams." The word Hong often signifies a row or series of rooms, shops, factories, or warehouses. Each block of factories is called by the natives a "hong." When about a dozen merchants at Canton had a monopoly of the foreign trade they were called "hong merchants." Hong Kong Harbor. — Weird was Hong Kong as we entered its harbor after nightfall. The sky was bright with stars, and the electric lights, rising row upon row, illuminated the hill which rises behind and above the city. Both the stars and the electric lights were reflected in the placid waters. The varied-colored lights from the many ships in the harbor mingled their rays with the other lights, thus adding to the beauty of the striking scene. Jutting out from the mainland opposite is the little penin- sula of Kowloong, whose lights completed the unique picture. This territory was ceded to the British government by the convention of Peking, October 24, 1861. The next morning we waited 226 k r THE CIBRALTAR OK TlIK KAST 227 arbor"; ted, the le word rooms, 3lock of ' hong." ton had ;y were 5 Hong ightfall. electric the hill Both cted in lights ingled |ding to ig out penin- ;ed the to the 'eking, waited on deck until the clouds lifted — some rain hav- ing fallen in the night — and then the entire view of hills, harbor, and city burst upon our sight. This magnificent harbor, surrounded by its ranges of lofty hills, renders shelter and affords depth for any known tonnage. It is a beautiful amphitheatre, a watery arena, covered with merchantmen and men-of-war of all nations. Hong Kong is the great emporium of the east. With rare skill does Great Britain find and se- cure strategic points on many shores. Tlie statesmanship of Britain is concerned only in small part with the little islands which make up Great Britain. It is the greater Britain reach- ing to the ends of the earth which must chiefly occupy the minds of British statesmen. The prime minister who cannot by a wise and vigor- ous policy conserve these interests, whatever else he may be in many other important respects, cannot really govern Great Britain. Her rela- tions are so numerous and complicated that the utmost wisdom is required to hold the balances justly, preserving her dignity, asserting her au- thorit}', and yet observing the rights of other nations. Years have taught her wisdom. One almost hesitates to speculate on the " might have been " if Britain had acted wisely toward her American colonies, now the United States of America. Britain now gives her colonies many rights which were then denied. They enjoy an autonomy, which once would have seemed impossible, either to the mother or to the children. These colonies are virtually repub- 1 228 AROUND THE WORLD At ,', ■'; lies, though the shadow of the British throne falls on them in the appointment of the governor general, who for a time is the representative of royalty. As a rule, however, these colonies are bound to the mother country by ties of loyalty as strong as they are tender. Spain's treatment of Cuba shows how little true statesmanship Spain possesses. Anglo-Saxon blood and Prot- estant faith are needed for the world's greatest prosperity. This blood and this faith will yet rule the world. Thoughts like these suggested themselves as this remote British colonial city rose up before us in its beautiful situation. About us are the bluish-green and greenish- blue waters, and yonder tlie mountains of vol- canic rock rising sheer from the water's edge. These mountains rise in terrace above terrace in the form of a crescent. Our steamer is sur- rounded by scores upon scores of ut*^erly un- sightly and abominably unclean sampans and other small craft. Many of the boats are " manned " by loud-voiced women, who steer, scull, cook, manage the numerous children, and drive hard bargains, and, when not otherwise engaged, quietly smoke or noisily chatter with their sister boatwomen. It is said that there are over twenty thousand Chinese in Hong Kong harbor who have no other dwellings but small boats, such as sampans, hakans, and various sorts of diminutive jimks. They earn a scanty subsistence by fishing, by transporting passen- gers and cargoes to and from shore, and in attending in other ways on the ships. The tup: GIBRALTAR OK TIIK KAST 229 throne overnor ative of nies are loyalty satment nansliip id Prot- greatest will yet iggested lial city n. reenish- > of vol- 's edge. ;rrace in is sur- erly un- ans and )ats are o steer, ren, and ;her\vise er with here are Kong t small various scanty passen- and in The 3- women seemed to be quite as strong and skillful as the men ; they were quite a» able to push their boats into the line and to shout for passen- gers as are their husbands and brothers. In tliis latter respect they rival New York hackmen and London cabmen. Steam launches, belonging to the ship or to the hotels, carried the cabin passengers ashore, and then the steerage passengers were beset by the runners from tb«^ native hotels. These run- ners wear a cone-shaped hat, bearing in Chinese characters the name of the hotel represented. They are a noisy crowd, and scramble up the sides of the ship with alacrity. To each steer- age passenger on this occasion there seemed to be at least twenty runners, but no doubt when large numbers of Chinese are returning from America, Hawaii, and other lands, these runners find many patrons. Both hotel runners and boatmen and women are for the most part Hak- kas, who were formerly the sole dwellers on this island. The island of Hong Kong Is eleven miles long and its width varies from two to five miles ; its circumference is about twenty-seven miles, and it has an area of about twenty-nine square miles. Its cession to Britain by the Chinese government took place in 1841 as a preliminary measure ; and as in 1843, t>y the treaty of Nankin, it was ceded in perpetuity to Her Britannic Majesty, it is now a crown colony. It is situ- ated at the mouth of Chu Kiang or Pearl River, ninety miles below Canton and forty miles from fi '3 i ^ '. 230 AKOUNl) TIlIv WORM) \ -I l\Iac;i(>, llic rortnj^iK'se ])ort. A nij^j^cd iiionn- taiii runs from casl to west, risitij^ at its Inchest point to ci};htocn liundred f'trt. On the south coast sandy hcaclios and hold clifis alternate. The houses rise on terrace after terrace and arc iniposin*> and sonic of them heautiful. Ti IK Capitai. City. — The island is Ilonj^; Kono", hut the k\L;al and official name of the city which is the capital is Victoria. After si)rea(l- ini>^ out alon<^ the water's cdj^^e for some miles the city climhs the steeps slopes at its hack in villas and uardens until it reaches almost to the summit of the peak. The poi)ulation is some- what over two hundred and forty thousand, of which numher fewer than five thousand arc I'Curoi'tcans and Americans. These fi<^ures show that the ]noportion of Chinese residents is very threat, and ahout one-third of them arc by birth British subjects. The Chinese section flanks the foreii^n quarter, and is quite characteri.stic of the race, being- crowded, dirty, and abomi- nable. A very busy scene meets the tourist when he reaches the shore. He will be impressed imme- diately with the variety and picturesqueness of the population. The ends of the earth meet in Hono- Kono-. It is in manv wavs the world's cxchanoe. Here the east and the west and the north and the south meet to do business, and meet often to cheat and to be cheated. A jinri- kisha ride on the broad Praya, an avenue which is to Hong- Kong what the Bund is at Yoko- Tin-; (linKAI.TAK Ol' TlIIv ICAST 231 liaiiKi or at Kobe, bfini;; tlu- stivct wliicli fronts the water, will show the visitor streets swariiiiii}^ with a motley crowd. All classes, conditions, and phases of luinianity seem to he here. Here are Jews, Tnrks, Mohammedans, Europeans, a few Americans, Hindns, Javanese, Ja])anese, Cingalese, Mala\s, Parsees, Sikhs, Portn^ncse, iMcnch, Si)aniar(ls, and (iermans, — the last beinj^ mostly Jews and money-lenders, — half- castes, Chinese merchants, and, always and every- where, the Chinese coolies, carrying poles, buck- ets, baskets, and sedan chairs, or clumsily trotting with the clumsy /y;/r//7".v//^/.v. The Chincscy/";/;'/- /y'isha and the Chinese runner have neither the grace nor the endurance of the Japanese vehicle and man. Continuing our ride or walk, we observe these various classes more closely in this bedlamic whirl of their commingled existence. Here is an Indian ayah clothed in white ; here is a Sikh ])ol iceman, trained in the British army, standing on the corner in a statuesque and semi-military attitude ; here is a Chinese policeman looking (juite out of place in a semi-Kuropean dress, and here is a luiropean policeman. You ask him a question and he answers in abroad Ir:sh brogue, and, if you are in any doubt, hear him shout at the Chinese loungers, and you might almost make an affidavit that you are in New York ; here a mender, who v ill do your darning and patching, sits by a basket of rags ; here a peri- patetic barber lays down his poles and boxes, takes out his tools and begins operations on a i,'fl 232 AROUNn TIIK WORM) ' ! ' t i •:/ needy eustonier ; here pij^-lailed hoys at phiy ; here peddlers shouliii<»; their wares. It vvoiUd seem that tlie custom of compressing the feet is dyini^ out. Some ekleriy women were hobhlin*;^ ak)uhore, 111 f ur- 11 iminitioii lor war, As one n)i<;lit expect, tlie snnnncr teni])eratnre is liij^li, as tile place is only a little over twenty- two decrees north of the ecpiator. There is also here at times j^reat atniosi)heric humidity. iMom May to ()ctol)er the heat is oj)pressive, and is accomi)anie(l with rain -.whI dam})ness. lint the honses are nsiially bnilt with broad verandas and receding apartments, so that their interior is comfortably cool. Many of the honses bnilt in this fashion seem almost like fortifications. The bnildinj^s in the lMiroi)eaii qnarter arc larj^^ely of {granite, there bein^- an excellent j^ran- itc qnarry in the neij^hborhood, and labor beinj^ cheap the solidity, massivencss, and stability of the houses in this qnarter are observable. After seeinji^ the flimsy and ephemeral homes of Japan, it is a comfort to sec these o^rcat and massive strnctnrcs. The nrrades over the walks are also a marked featnre ; they ^ive needed protection from rain and snn. They remind one of many P^nropean cities, and especially of some parts of Paris. vSonie foreign residents own carriapi'cs drawn by horses, and there are a few drays, bnt the jinrikisJia and the sedan chair are the chief means of locomotion, and even heavy merchan- dise is carried by poles on the shoulders of men. A few horses here are of more value apparently than many coolies. Charactp:ristic Spots. — Most of the whole- sale trade is carried on in the Praya, .nd in the >'l; ill :' li , '» •i! 234 AROUND TIIK WORLD cA Queen's Road, running directly behind the Pra) a, the retail shops and marts for curios are found. lu this latter are the Chinese nioney-chano;ers, with baskets on the floor at their feet, into whicli they throw the silver in heaps when they have tested it by feeling and sounding it. Silver filigree work, ivory, carvings, porcelain, and ornaments of gold and silver are temptingly displayed. The Chinese dealer is very shrewd, and generally asks much more than he will finally take. Hong Kong being a free port, European goods are bought at prices but slightly in advance of home rates. A Hong Kong newspaper, which contained nothing except advertisements, a few scissorings, and two editorials in very indifTercnt English, cost me the exorbitant sinn of fourteen cents. In Hong Kong, as in Japan, the plan seems to be to put the daily newspapers at such prices that no one will buy them, and it would seem as if this end were fully attained, except when an ignorant tourist is betrayed into making a foolish purchase. In the banks. Chinamen or half-castes share the duties with Europeans, and some of the banks are fine structures. Coolies swing great fans over the desks, and the clerks, dressed in white, work very deliberately. Getting five pounds in one of these banks proved to be a prolonged and very solemn function. Near the city is a race-course in a locality known as the " Happy Valley." There are also the Protestant, Roman, Mohammedan, Parsee, Hindu, and Chinese cemeteries. The City Hall, Hong Kong and Shanghai banks are fine build- ll !• :ality also irsee, |Hall, )uild- THK (linKAI/PAR OK Till- KAST 235 inps. T o sonic tl le 111 ilitar inul y i)ai"a(ie «;i(M111< cricket j^roiinds, and ])arracks arc an attraction. ibli d( d vSt. The Government Ilonsc, ^ John's Anglican Cathedral, the clock tower, and several club houses will attract attention. So will the lines of two viaducts, the Howen and Kennedy Roads, as those high promenades are called, being named for two favorite governors of the colony. The peak is reached by an inclined railway, which is worked by a cable. It goes to Victor ia Gap, which is at a height of fourteen hundred feet. The road rises more than one foot in four. At the top are two large hotels and numerous dwellings, and good roads go four hundred and twenty-five feet higher to the main signal sta- tion. It is easy to imagine how superb the views are from this height. At the feet of the beholder lies the city ; stretching out before him is the harbor, with its many ships ; inland the vision extends to the encircling mountains and outward over the limitless ocean. Standing on the deck of the steamer, the night of our arrival, we watched at first with a puzzled interest, not knowing what they were, the lights of the cable cars as they were going up and down the moun- tain, a track of fire marking their course. Previous to 1861, Kowloong, of which men- tion has been made, was considered neutral ter- ritory, but the Chinese having violated certain treaty conditions, were punished by having Kow- loong occupied and Canton captured by the British. Canton, however, was held only a short f fi } > / I I i <•' i l.^i! ( l!-V •I. ' ■ * i' r t'f|-| , ' 236 AROUND Till-: WOULD time, as the CMiinese government came to terms. Kovvloonj^, eonsistini; of only funr scinare miles, was IIkmi added to the eolony. Ilonj^ Konj;- is nsnally ealled a "fast city." Seai)()rt towns uniformly ])()ssess all the vices of civilization. Unfortunately, these come sooner far than the virtues. There is a Hritish society here which certainly is not " slow." Halls, horse races, re«;attas, and / for its release, the Chinese having been guilty of violation of treaties. In Decem- ber, 1857, Canton was captured by the allied forces of the British and French, and held in their hands for nt.irly four years, the govern- ment being administered by a joint commission. Cliina finally came to terms, and the foreign troops were withdrawn. Great Britain has had a summary way of dealing with Asiatic nations. f- 1 fe IS |>reign had Itions, A NICK OK CHINA 243 and recent massacres in China demand at this moment decisive measures. The sight-seeing of the day must begin. '^ ^" ady the babel of many voices falls upon the ear ; it is in the distance like the roar of the sea as its waves beat on the shore. There is a hotel on the Shameen, a small island, which is sepa- rated from the mainland by a small stream or canal, and on this island is the pretty foreign settlement, near the western suburb ; here are quiet and shady walks to which one is glad to retreat from the noises, sights, and smells of the typical Chinese city of Canton. But the traveler need not get a room at the hotel ; perhaps he has an invitation from one of the foreign resi- dents, but if not he can secure a cabin in the boat which is to take him back to Hong Kong. He can also bring his " tiffin^'' luncheon, with him from the boat. The Shameen is really an Arcadian island. One would think that the contrast between it and the Chinese parts of the city would favor- ably impress even tlie Chinese, and would in- spire them to imitate the neatness and cleanli- ness of the foreigners ; no doubt it does impress the Chinese and does inspire them — inspires them to look down with unutterable contempt on these barbarous foreigners. Just at this time especially the Cantonese were not disposed to look witli favor on foreigners ; it was therefore well for tourists not to notice critical comments which they could not understand, nor unpleasant gestures whose meaning is not concealed. I ill i' I: ' 244 AROUND THE WORLD The stream or canal which separates the Sha- meeii from the mainland is filled with sampans, but there are only two avenues of approach, one by the English and the other by the French bridge ; these bridges are closed at night and guarded by the police, and Chinese are not al- lowed entrance unless they have a permit. The closing and opening of the gates are marked by a gieat din caused by blowing horns and beat- ing drums, and reacliing a climax in the dis- charge of an old musket. The racket is so great as almost to lead one to suppose that the whole Celestial Empire is in a state of rebellion. It is, indeed, an " infernal " din to be made by a " celestial " city. It is supposed that tlie law is made majestic in proportion to the noise which accompanies its manifestations. K I'' \W ';i Streets of Canton. — The noise, bustle, crowding, and squeezing are all one can endure. You select one of the corps of professional guides, or perhaps some less pretentious a'ce- roiiCy and the company starts ; the sedan chairs follow their leader in single file through the streets, making a procession as unique to Euro- pean eyes as it is natural to the eyes of the Can- tonese. The route is the established one, chosen as the result of experience so as to give the vis- itor the greatest amoimt of sight-seeing with the smallest expenditure of time and labor. The sedan chairs cost but little, and they save time and strength, but their most important service is that they lift one above the horrible filth of the i):.i A NICK OF CHINA 245 vile streets ; if they could only protect the nos- trils as well as the ankles their value would be greatly enhanced. Streets, did I say? Well, by courtesy they are called streets. There is in Canton a popula- tion of perhaps a million and a half, and there is not a street in the cit>' more than eight feet wide ; many are from six to seven feet, and some are even narrower, even though the law is that they shall be at least seven. Horses and car- riages are unknown here. I thought the streets narrow in Spanish cities ; but think of those of Canton. Even the comiortahle jV^tn'h's/ia cannot be used here ; everything has to be carried on human shoulders. Two chairs and their coolies can barely brush past each other. Turning a corner often necessitates invading a shop front with the poles of the sedan chair, and a chair may for a time block a whole street. Then a babel of shouts rends the air and almost splits the ear. Where streets meet, or in front of some special business house, or some dignitary's dwell- ing, there is a little additional space, but such spaces are exceptional. The street scenes are a study. In front of some shops there are brightly colored signs, mysterious, hieroglyphical, bewildering. Occa- sionally, as in Seville, a canopy is drawn across the street and the sky is hidden from view. The shop fronts are removed and all goods are open to inspection, and narrow as the streets are, some of their space is occupied by merchants ambi- tious to display their goods. Long-gowned mer- !1 Hi' m 'it' I \ 'I '-,-■ if! 246 AROUND THE WORLD •/ n 'I •m chants abound ; and porters in scantiest garb arc hurryincr to and fro, carrying great bundles sus- pended from poles on their shoulders. Here conies a dignitary with a two-storied red um- brella. Who may he be? HiS umbrella pro- claims him 10 be a mr.n of rank. He claims the right of way. Ordinary citizens flatten themselves against the wall or find shelter in a doorway to let him pass. Here comes a gayly painted and gilded wedding-chair, with sounds called music heralding its approach. By all means yield the right of way again. Did you think the streets were narrow, foul- smelling, and generally disgusting? Has your olfactory sense been in a state of rebellion ever since you began your strange journey ? You are quite mistaken. " What is in a name ? " You shall see. You have complained, good friend, of the thousand mingled and vile odors which saluted your nostril in yonder street. Then know, O complaining mortal, that you were in the " Street of Refreshing Breezes." Breezes, indeed, but refreshing ! Well, that is not ex- actly the name which occurred to you. Were you deafened by the din of that other street? Did you determine to hasten from it to one which you found still fuller with rushing tides of humanity and noises of bedlam or babel ? Then know that the latter street is none other than the " Street of Ten Thousand-fold Peace," and the former the "Street of Multiplied Bless- ings." Does this nomenclature madden or sadden you ? il A NICK OK CHINA 247 'I I n Preserve your soul in patience ; go farther and you may travel through such streets as " Ever- lasting^ Love," "Thousand Beatitudes," "One Thousand Grandsons," " Benevolence and Love " ; or, what seems more in keeping with all you see, smell, and feel, the street of "The Saluting Dragon." Some of the streets are devoted to distinct trades ; thus there is " Carpenter " Street, " Apothecary " Street, and others of other trades or pursuits. Verily, there is much in a name ; in the streets of Canton much contradic- tion and sometimes nmcli righteous indignation. Chief Sights. — Here temples abound. In this respect China goes ahead of Japan. There are in China three great zsms : Buddhism, Con- fucianism, and Taoism. Confucius lived about the sixth century before Christ ; Lao-tse, the founder of Taoism, was his contemporary, and Buddhism was introduced from India about the time of the Christian era. Except among the learned Chinese there is no clearly defined dis- tinction between these various beliefs ; their lines cross and recross one another. In temples dedicated to one faith there are found forms of worship and images which are utterly repudiated by the founders and the intelligent devotees of that faith. The one dominating religious faith in China is the worship of ancestors. This is the distin- guishing element in their religious philosophy, and is the only faith which may rightly be called national. While on this journey I read '. ,t '■'-' ■ \ i'l' \k ; ! C * », 248 AROUND THE WORLD If I >, , ' 1» 1.1 Wl f-i careful histories and arguments on tliis subject, and 1 was convinced that this is the one domi- nating faith and worship. It often controls tlie administration of justice ; it determines the suc- cession to power ; it influences every .social rela- tion ; it even leads to the return of the Chinese emigrant, living or dead. Tliis is not the place for the discussion of this broad subject ; but it is certainly true that all minor matters of belief are absorbed in this national tenet of Chinese faith. In China, as in Japan, there are numerous sects of Buddhists. There is in Canton a temple to Confucius in every division of the city, and these temples, like the Shinto shrines in Japan, are relatively plain, while the Buddhist and Taoist temples have many dc .es and strange and often hideous objects of worship. One will, of course, visit the temple of the Five Hundred Genii, situated in the western suburbs. This temple is sometimes called The Flov/ery Forest Monastery, and it is said to have been founded about the year 500 a. d. ; it con- tains the images of five hundred disciples, sages, and apostles of Buddha. The only thing worthy of notice is that the expressions on the features of these deified sages and warriors differ essen- tially ; but they all agree in being exceedingly commonplace. The images of the good Knipe- ror Kien Lung, who ruled for sixty years, and of Marco Polo, the famous Venetian traveler, are worthy of a second look because of their historical associations. A NICK OK CHINA 219 en- ly pe- id er. The Taoist monastery of Tlircc Chiefs occu- pies a picturcs(iuc location on the- side of Kun Yam Hill. The water clock is larjj^ely a very commonplace affair; it is a very crude mode of measurinor time ; indeed an ordinary American boy could improve upon it in all its parts. The five-storied pa<(oda is a lon I r & I * '>? it W 1 ' ' ' 'p . ,1 250 AROUND THIi WORI,D li ; universities. Here examinations are held, last- ing three days, under the direction of hi^h offi- cials. There are twelve thousand cells on the grounds, and for two days and nij^hts the candi- dates are kept therein ; a strict watch is main- tained that they may not communicate with one another or with any persons in the outside world. When a death occurs the body is removed through a hole in the wall, for the j^^ates cannot be unlocked until the exaniinalion is over. Usually only forty to fifty students receive de- grees, and these go to Peking for further exam- ination, and, if successful, are then given posi- tions of honor under the government. But there is not space to speak of the city prison, where punishment is barbarous and where de- capitations take place each Friday ; of the tem- ple of Longevity, of that of the Queen of Heaven, of the pen of sacred swine, of the Viceroy's Iviterary Club, of the Magistrate's Halls, or Yamcns^ of the Tea Merchants' Guild Hall, and still other objects of interest. In the bazaars are seen fine specimens of por- celain, of jade-stone jewelry, of ivory carvings, of silks in many kinds, of goods and curios of various sorts and prices. There are shops for the sale of edible birds' nests, brought, it is said, from Borneo ; and there are restaurants and markets where cats, dogs, and rats are sold as the staple foods ; but these are found only in what we would call the slums. The rat is certainly in the market ; no one can truthfully deny that statement. It is there alive in cages ; it is there I J \ M" A NICK OK CHINA 251 fresh or dried on incatshop counters; it is there in the queer-loc,kin;. bit ^f dried ,„eat. ninkin^. Itself known by tlie long, thin tail -curled like a K:rape tendril." *- Let the bewildering, dazing, tiresome, instruc tive day pass Let this city of splendor and sqnalor, ot Oriental wealth and barbaric gran- deur, fade ont of sight ; bnt the n.eniorv of its sininiering cookery, its verniillion signboards, its bustling crowds, its seething streets, its bla/e and glitter Its beautiful and abominable si.rj.ts and Its indescribable odors will linger iif the mind in all the years to come. ' I !'• 1 1'' I t h XXI MORE ABOUT CHINA I'. ! ^i I: AS we are about to leave Hong Kong a few comments on Chinese peculiarities seem to be in order. The filth of these Chinese cities invites all forms of epidemic diseases ; the mor- tality is often very great ; but one is not sur- prised that many die in these vile abodes, only that any persons live. Surely one poison must neutralize another, or no one could survive. Chinese Traits. — The opium-smoking Clii- naman is readily detected. This vice leaves its mark in bleared eyes, sallow features, unsteady step, and general collapse. To explain her po\'- erty, a poor Chinese woman has only to say, " My husband is an opium smoker." This is almost the only form of stimulant used by the Chinese. Men intoxicated by liquor are very rare ; of that vice Europeans have a monopoly, and many of their ailments in tropical lands, which they attribute to the climate, are due to their indulgence in spirituous liquors. Britain has forced the opium trade on China, and it flourishes to the dishonor of Britain, of China, and of humanity. For this vice there seems to be little hope of cure. Japan does well to for- 252 'i f /I • MORE ABOUT CHINA :hi- ids, to It Ina, to 253 ! h ;| bid under heavy penalties ti.e illicit introduction of opium, and she will i?ot make it legal, except for speeiiied purposes. A queer creature is Jolni Chinaman as one sees him in Hong Kong and Canton. Each John resembles the other. There he stands with his shaved liead and pigtail, his loose cloth blouse, iiaif shirt and half jacket, his thick- soled shoes — a unique, smart, cuiniing, danger- ous, enigmatical creature. When the Chinese meet each shakes lils own hand. The women are seen on all the boats wearing trousers and the men wearing a sort of skirt. The hair of the men reaches in some instances to their feet ; but the hair of the women is tied tightly around their heads. As Mr. Ballon remarks, the spoken language is never written, and the written language is never spoken. White is the color of mourning, black of rejoicing. Dinner is begun with the dessert and ended with substantial food. The Chinese mariner's compass points to the south and not to the north pole. Tlie Chinaman mounts a horse on the right, and not on the left side. Chinese men carry fans ; the women do not. When noc in use, the fan is thrust in the back of his neck, leaving the handle to protrude. The Chinaman and his vast country have been hidden from view by a false conservatism ; but that is disappearing. The extravagant ideas long entertained of the Celestial lunpire are finding correction, and the world is finding out the true Chinaman in his vices and virtues alike. :i't 1 I li' m 'l'4 ■t i "' : v^Jii; *i I! > J 'I hn - ,v,' ,• \fl, jl, r \'i ft Lt. ' I r ' ki If ■ '• i ' .■1 ■, 'I )fr 254 AROUND thb: world I wish to write with absolute fairness. In do- mestic comfort and personal cleanliness the Chi- nCvSe are far behind the Japanese ; but in avoid- ance of nudity they are far ahead of the Japa- nese. Of couse, a vacation tourist cannot see the best specimens of either nation ; Orienuti exclusiveness shuts away the best specimens of Chinese women, and this is well understood. The Japanese give you a sense of kinship quite unknown when you meet the Chinese. Cooked food is placed near the dead ; but a similar cus- tom may be seen at Genoa, at Pisa, and in other countries where Romanism is dominant. The Chinaman has made swine sacred, but the Hindu deifies cows and monkeys. There is another side to the Chinese charac- ter. In many of the cities of China there are philanthropic societies which will take rank with those of Europe and America. This strano-e people comprise a great share of the hu- man race. The peculiarities and difficulties of the Chinese language help to shut out the peo- ple from the knowledge of other nations, and their enormous self-conceit adds to the same re- sult. No nation but the Japanese has ever bor- rowed from the Chinese language. It was prob- ably composed originally of hieroglyphics, which eventually came to be symbolic as the language now stands. But it must not be forgotten that the Chinese have had a great history. They were a learned people wlien the great nations of to-day were barbarians. The Japanese borrowed their Ian- :. MORE ABOUT CHINA 255 o;uao;e, their literature, their pliilosophy, and their religion largely from the Chinf^' \ Chinese records go back to the days of Abrunani. Print- ing by movable types was known in China five hundred years before printing was known in Europe. In geography, astronomy, and allied branches, China was early far advanced, and learning is still honored and considerably dif- fused. The percentage of illiteracy is far lower in China than in such Roman Catholic countries as Spain, Italy, and Mexico. Civil service ex- aminations are marvelously rigid. A knowledge of the use of gunpowder and of the magnetic compass went from China to Fvurope, probably by way of Asia Minor or the Red Sea. China has had a great past ; God grant that she may have a great, a Christian futur^. It would not be surprising if God should, by marvelous over- turning in this land of hoary tradition, shake the country to its foundations ; it would not be surprising if European nations should yet get a foothold here, and perhaps divide the country among themselves to the great advantage of all the interests of civilization, humanity, and Chris- tianity. Thk Massacres. — Just at the time of this visit all Europeans in the East were terribly bitter against China because of the Satanic Ku- cheng massacre. Nine of the missionary band were killed outright, and two died afterward, w^hile four more w^re cut and hacked by spears and tridents. This was not a sudden orlbreak 1 I* (» (i 3 / ! ■■! III i: •* ?l' f.. Ill 2.S6 AROUND THE WORLD "t •fl h I I' i I Fr I i\m M '!■ 111 iv of spasmodic ferocity a<^ainst the foreip^ner ; it was rather a deliberately planned and desper- ately wicked attempt to work a hellish cruelty on innocent foreigners. It was in no small part another "slaughter of the innocents." The missionaries gave absolutely no provocation. America and Great Britain have been too lenient with China. She has sent cultured gentlemen to represent her in London and Washington, and the governments of both countries have judged the nation by these representatives. It will not do for our countries to allow China to punish a few hired coolies who were at most only the less guilty instruments in the barbarity ; the real authors must be found and punished. China must be made to feel that she cannot trifle with Britain and America, cannot trifle with the civilization of this century. She must be made to feel the only power which she is capable of feeling. We have too often treated her as if she were fully civilized, and she has too often taught us that, in important respects, she is still wholly barbaric. I have no sympathy with the remark I am constantly hearing, ' '^hina is not worth saving," neither have I syi.. athy with a sickly sentimentalism which refuses to hold China up to the scorn of the world and to the hand of justice for her crimes. The Chinese fled like sheep before the Japa- nese soldiers ; but, though cowards then, they became wonderfully brave when, as bullies and murderers, they attacked helpless women and children. They have earned the contempt of MORE ABOUT CHINA 257 ht rk ot )a- id of the world. The g-ospcl of Clirist can save even Cliina and make her fnlnre a thonsand-fold more resplendent than her traditional and vvonderfnl past. The inflnences of the gospel are her only hope ; only these will break np the conservatism of centnries and lead China ont into the highway of prosperity among the civilized nations. Di- vine providence is already using the war with Japan to show Cluna the inferiority of her ancient and heathen civilization in comparison to that of the great Christian European nations. Leaving Hong koNG. — From Hong Kong pathways over the sea radiate in many direc- tions ; from this point the traveler may take ship to any country on the globe, may start to " all the ends of the earth " — Singapore, Penang, Java, Sumatra, Ceylon, Australia, New Zealand, the great tropical realm of the South Sea, all parts of India and Burma, with their cities of IVIadras, Calcutta, Bombay, and Rangoon, and other cities and countries too numerous to men- tion. These all lie before the traveler, and the particular places he may wish to visit will deter- mine his route from this point or from Colombo. What a new world opens to the imagination as these new quarters of the globe are suggested ! How real the old names of boyhood's geography become when you are actually at some of the places and are heading for others which hitherto had a name, but only sn ill-defined local habita- tion ! On Thursday, August 15, at one o'clock, we \ I k ■ m lU) ili'' i ! ii' A I: =^MP } '' • 'I: , ^ ,0 n \. '! ,1 8 j-i I 258 AROUND THE WORi J left Hong Kong for Singapore, i'enang, and Colombo, on board the good steamer " Kaisar-i- Hind," of the P. & O. S. N. Co. This ship was named in honor of Qneen Victoria, bearing her latest title, " Kaisar-i-Hind," which, being inter- preted, means " Empress of India." When lannched, in 1878, it was probably the largest ship afloat ; it wasthe yacht of the P. & O. fleet ; since then some P. & O. ships, and many of other lines, have been bnilt which are larger and much finer. But she is still a noble ship and worthy of the honor which the queen conferred by visiting and naming her when she was launched. Pier able commander was Captain Frank H. Seymour, who had been many years in the P. & O. service, and for the last ten years commander of different ships belonging to this great company. Captain Seymour is not only an able seaman, but an intelligent, genial, and courteous gentleman. He did everything in his power to make this trip pleasant and profitable. All passengers holding through tickets are guests of the line in any harbor from the time of their arrival on one ship to the time of their departure on another, if they remain on board. In harmony with this rule, two gentlemen, one for Penang and one for Colombo, were transferred, with the writer, in the company's steam launch from the "Verona" to the "Kaisar-i-Hind." So were a family occupying the second cabin, who were returning to Australia. Of course, when we left the ship to go sight-seeing, we ourselves had to provide for our entertainment. ^ I ir MORK ABOUT CHINA 259 his ible. are ;ime [heir )ard. one :red, inch vSo Kvho li we had Four young English midshipmen came on board at Hong Kong ; they had been on the warsliip " Leander " and had been ordered back to England to be transferred to another branch of the naval service. They proved to be agree- able young men as fellow-passengers. A young Cliinaman was also a passenger; he evidently belonged to some one of the better classes of his countrymen. Not being able to speak English, and taking his meals in his cabin, he must have had a somewhat lonely trip, but he seemed to be sufficiently happy in his Chinese reading and in his characteristic seclusion. Some additional second cabin passengers came on board at Hong Kong, but at this season of the year, in this lati- tude, it is expected that travel will be light. We had not even one lady passenger in the first cabin, neither had we had since Bishop Walden and his party left us at Nagasaki. Passengers in the second cabin are more fortunate. This ship was to sail from Bombay, October 5, for London, reaching "home" about the end of that month. By that time Captain Seymour and the other officers would have been absent from their families about one year. Certainly these long absences, and occasionally they are considerably longer, make the lives of seamen in the Orient anything but enviable. Orientals Aboard. — Some of the waiters on board the "Kaisar" were an interesting group. They were Goanese, the nescendants of Portu- guese adventurers, who settled about two hun- t i. t 26o AROUND THE WORLD a ■ ■' . ;di < ! I I dred miles from Bombay and married native women. Tlieir descendants have intermarried, so that the two original lines have been many times crossed and recrossed. They are still Ro- manists in faith, that faith having been trans- planted by their Portnguese ancestors to the soil of their Indian home, and they still possess char- acteristics of speech and manner inherited from their Portnguese fathers and their Indian moth- ers. A partially corrupted Portuguese language is spoken by them ; the Indian is spoken also, so is the G oanese, which is in part a mixture of the other two tongues. Many of them now speak English. In their dark jackets and white trou.seis they look tidy, and they render prompt and efficient service. During my last two voyages my cabin stew- ards were Chinamen, and there was no fault to be found with their conduct or service. But it was nevertheless an agreeable change on this boat to have for cabin steward a )oung Scotch- man with the suggestive name of MacDonald. On the whole it is a name preferable to Ah Sin or Wong Lung. There surely is no serious ob- jection to having a steward who can fully under- stand and be fully understood. Our sailors were the most picturesque sailors I have ever seen ; they were in this respect — perhaps in all respects — a great improvement on the Chinamen wlio were the sailors on my last two ocean trips. The dull colors and un- sightly shapes of their ill-fitting and nondescript garments, not to mention undesirable (qualities 11. , I l! i ! V MORIv AHOUT CHINA 261 bin ob- lors :t— lent my tm- [ript Ities ill their persons, contrast { \h . , of step, crcctiicss of carriage, and dignity of gen- eral deportment most pleasing to ol)scrve. Formerly there were sailing ships manned by these natives in which their yonth were trained for more important service ; but now the P. (S: O. Company takes the boys into its service and trains them for the varions positions which they show ability to fill. The sailors on board come from different places in the northern part of India. That great country is destined in many ways to fill a large place in the commerce and general business of the world. All countries with an extensive seaboard train sailors. XXII SINGAPORE WHEN one has to spend r-^urtccn clays on the same steamer he lightly takes pains in the selection of his cabin. On this vova"-e the nnniber of passengers was so small for a large ship that great latitnde was allowed in choosing a cabin. Indeed, the privilege 'vas granted the writer to change his cabin as he de- sired so as to avoid snn and spray and to secnre the greatest degree of air and coolness. r A Floating Homk. — The cabin chosen M'as spacions ; reasonably large for fonr, it was agree- ably roomy for one. Upon taking possession of it for so long a trip there was the natnral desire to make it as houiclike as possible. Garments were shaken out and hung up ; " penates " and " genii " in the form of family pictures and favorite books were displayed, and so the voyage over the China Sea and the gulf of Siam was begun. Five days after we left Hong Kong the rug- ged shores of the Malay Peninsula came in sight as we plowed through the placid waters for Singapore, which we would soon reach. The days had been very pleasant. Sitting on the 263 ^^HuS IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 1.0 I.I ^ i^ 1112.2 " lis lllio mm 1.25 u |||i^ -^ 6" ► v: ^ /a ^/. '/ W Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 264 AROUND THE WORLD r'fnfn^ .* ;c Ik, spacious quarterdeck, under the awning, which protected from the sun but admitted the breeze, it was difficult to realize that we were out on the China Sea and not on the piazza of a first-class seashore hotel. There was much time for reading. Light but good literature received attention, literature which at home, it is felt, must be for the most part set aside. But no student can afford to neglect the great authors. No musician can afford to hear only second-class music ; he must study and hear the great masters. So we must read the great mast^Ts of prose and poetry. There ought to be, and there was on this trip, the reading of almost daily portions from Shakes- peare, Tennyson, and other immortal writers. There was time for writing also ; several news- paper letters were written on board different ships. There was time for meditation on God and duty. In our busy, work-a-day lives there is far too little opportunity for quiet and fruitful meditation. There was also planning for many forms of aggressive work. Sitting by my cabin porthole, not the ordinary port, but one nearly two feet square, watching the quiet sea, great thoughts of work pressed on mind and heart, but rest, genuine rest, was experienced. In such an experience lines of weariness go out of the face, ozone fills the lungs, iron the blood, courage the will, and gratitude the heart. k Half-way Around the World. — At 8 p. m. Monday, August 19, 4° 12' north latitude, 106° ■w SING A PORK 265 east longitude, I was just half around the world from New York as the storting-point. During all this journey there had not been a moment of sickness, not really a moment of discomfort; tlie oft-dreaded mal dc mcr\\2^i\ not been experienced even in the slightest degree ; not a connection had been missed, and not a disappointment ex- perienced. Kind friends abounded and the good- ness of God in a thousand ways had been mani- fested. In such circumstances even an ingrate might be grateful. None of tlie fears entertained by solicitous friends regarding the possibility of typhoons in the China Sea, althougli there was one the week before I sailed, nor regarding the expected great heat, were realized. At this point we were out of the China Sea and out of the gulf of Siam, and typhoons were not expected. We were only a few degrees north of the equator, and yet in the evening, while walking on the deck, a reasonably heavy coat was not un- comfortable. We passed tlirough the seas where waterspouts are occasionally seen, and had this journey been made in December with a north- east monsoon ])ehind us, instead of in August with the wind in the opposite quarter, we miglit have been gratified with the sight of one while running off the gulf of Siam , but obliging though Captain Seymour was, he had to draw the line at the waterspout. It certainly was deeply interesting to realize that the Philippine Islands were off on our le^t, that Borneo was on our port bow, and that as we neared the equatorial line the ship was headed ;i I,-,! )■ f ! ■ % V I. ;4 266 AROUND TIIR WORLD • 1 I f; ' for the mouth of the straits 1> in^ between the Malay Peninsula and the island of Sumatra. We were thus, with quiet seas, open ports, and glad hearts, nearing Singapore, the most southerly point of Asia. The Capital ok the Straits Settle- ments. — Singapore is situated at the mouth of the Malacca Straits. On the charts another point is called the most southerly point of Asia, Singapore being an island and not reckoned in that classification as if it were on the mainland ; but Singapore is nevertlieless really the most southerly point of Asia. The great majority of ships to and from the East touch at Singapore. This fact gives importance to this place. Much cargo is taken on and put off here ; it is also an important coaling station for steamers following various routes to and from the East. Singapore is separated from the mainland by a strait per- haps not more than a quarter of a mile wide. The approach to the harbor is very picturesque ; many islands are scattered about it, thickly wooded and rising from the sea in rounded hills. As we came to the wharf our steamer was quickly surrounded by Malay boys in boats which were the merest shells; only those skilled in the management of them could remain in them for even a few minutes without capsizing. The boys were on their knees and propelled their little boats with paddles. Soon they were calling out in broken English : SINGAPORE 2(1 267 " Have a dive ? dive for a ntpcc^ for twenty cents, for ten, for five, for a penny. Fire away ! a penny, a penny ! Come, now ! Here's a dive, a big dive ! " Coins were thrown into the water by a nnni- ber of passengers, and immediately there was a great splash, the boats were all emptied, and the boys were strnggling and plunging in the water. Sometimes all of them were out of sight. Then they emerged, one of them triumphantly hold- ing the coin in his teeth. Most deftly would they put one hand in the center of the boat, and then with a spring they would again be in their places in the boat, again repeating their calls and their dives as often as coin was thrown into the sea. Sometimes they would utter their cries loudly and entreatingly in a sort of rude chorus. This they kept up at times as long as the steamer remained at the wharf, and when it was about to sail the next day they came in larger numbers and produced greater clamor. Their brother divers of the Hawaiian Islands are equally ex- pert as swimmers and divers, but they did not use boats in harvesting their pennies, being able to remain often for hours in the water sim- ply by using their hands and feet. Other boats containing parrots and other birds of brilliant plumage, and still other boats with beautiful shells, came alongside of the steamer, soliciting us to make purchases. A ride was taken with Captain Seymour into the town of Singapore, which is about three miles from the boat-landing. We were drawn .•'.11! W \\ •« (.' y 1 t . 268 AROUND THK WORM) l**< I •" over the .smooth roacl by a very little horse, which seemed too small to perform this task, but the carria^% thoii}.^h lar<;e, was lij^ht, and the road was excellent. Kvidences that we were in a tropical climate abounded on both sides of the road. There were luxuriant palm trees of many species, some of them laden with cocoa- nuts and other fruits of the palm family ; there were hedijes of j^rovvin}^ rattans, neatly clipped ; and there were ji^roves of bananas and other tropi- cal fruits. We observed that the liouses, some of them larj^e and somewhat pretentious, and occupied by European and other officials, and occasionally by Parsees, were built on piles and raised a con- siderable distance above the <^round. This is done as a protection aq^ainst snakes, scorpions, spiders, lizards, and other kinds of poisonous vermin ; in the earlier days perhaps ])rotection a ; ( *,i:, Till*: CiiiNKSK Again. — Cliinaincn abound here, as tlicre are no restrictions npon their coni- in<^. Their sliops are nunierons. Chinamen are in banks and business offices ; tliey carry heavy loads through the streets; and they run with the c\\\\\\i^y Jinrikis/tas. Tlie Chinese are a patient, ploddinif them bein^ tapioca, cocoanut oil, ^ambier, tin, indigo, tij^er skins, coral, gutta percha, camphor, and other things characteristic of tropical re- gions. In former days tigers were the great foe of the people, and to some extent it is still so. They swim across the straits from the mainland, hide in the thick jungles, and then prey on the people living on the plantations. Until the jungles are remo\'ed, the island will not be free from the depredations of this fierce animal. The word Singapore, most probably of Sanskrit origin, means " Liontown " ; but in later days the terror of the natives lias been the tiger. vSoiiie years ago statistics show that not fewer than three hundred persons yearly, out of a population of one hundred and ninety thousand, were destroyed by tigers. Pits have been dug in which many of them have been cpught, and as the island is more fully cleared and inhabited they become rarer. Tropicai. Hkat. — The people who live in Singapore speak of it as being a healthful place. Soft and fragrant breezes blow from the spice- bearing fields of the surrounding islands. It is the home of many kinds of beautiful birds, SI NO A PORK /v> many varieties of insects, and many specimens of rare shells. It is the best place in the world in which to make collections of bntterllies. One writer calls attention to the fact that "the j;;reat j^recn-\vin<;ed ornithoptera, the prince of the hntterfly tribe," abonnds here; and that an en- thnsiastic German natnralist had collected within a month over three hnndred ren)prkal)le speci- mens of beetles within a space of two miles from the center of the town. Here there is no winter, no antnmn ; it is nn- changin^ a line of outposts to her vast Indian possessions ; of this point nientior .vill be made later. SINdAI'ORK Thm- was Mitich ill Siii^rapou. f. remind oiio o» Ik; llawaiiaii Islands palms <,f maiiv kinds iiKdndiii^r faii-palni, tlic bread-fruit tree, dates, li^s, manjrols, l)anaiias, (lowers, and people. Hut 111 wealth, beauty, and eliarm of fruit and flower slirub and tree, mountain and vallev, atUK.spherJ and people, tlie Hawaiian Islands are as sunliirht to moonh^dit when compared to SinKap<.re. I iK'y are likely t(» be peerless, even when com- pared with "Ceylon's isle." f'' (!; I (i. ,'lt XXIII PENANG AND CEYLON FROM Hong Kong to Singapore we sailed to the south and slightly westward. On Monday, August 19, at 3 p. m., as already indi- cated, we were exactly half-around the world in longitude, but at Singapore we distinctly turned the rnrner, if one may so speak. Now we were heading for home, now every throb of the engine was carrying us nearer to those who are dearest. Optically also, as a glance at the map shows, this fact was evident. It was found at times exceed- ingly difficult to keep our geographical position in mind. All a Western traveler's usual rela- tions to the countries he has been accustomed to call Eastern countries are entirely changed when he is iii the far East. To us, where we are now sailing, Beluchistan, Afghanistan, Persia, Arabia, Africa, Egypt, Palestine, and all Europe are Western lands. This was a fact extremely diffi- cult of realization. To be east of these lands was a peculiar sensation. To dwellers in Cathay the Levant seems almost to be Europe. At 4 P. IM., on W^ednesday, August 21, we left Singapore for Penang. The trip was truly de- lightful. The sea was emerald ; its ripples were liquid gems. Islands for a time rose up from the 276 PKNANG AXD CKYl.OX // placid waters and stood on each side like in ij^ lily sentinels. Spice-laden breezes fanned onr cheeks ; heart and Inngs rejoiced in the soft, healinj^, and soothing atmosphere. Tliere was no oppressive heat ; indeed, on the qnarter-deck, in the even- ing, the air was almost too cool for comfort, dressed, as we were, in light clothing. This fact also is difficult of realization when one remem- bers that we were only a few miles north of the equator. Of course, any exertion would readily give the sensation of heat, but exertion being absent, there was not a moment of discomfort because of high temperature, Perhaps this vvas an exceptionally cool season ; one is certainly inclined so to believe as he remembeis the charm- ing accounts which he has heard and read re- garding the heat of these equatorial regions. The captain said it was an exceptional season. This writer can speak only according to his per- sonal experience. Penang. — After a run of thirty-six hours, Penang was reached. This was once called Prince of Wales Island, or Pulo Pinang, or Betel- nut Island. Here we remained seven hours, time enough, however, to see most that is dis- tinctive in Penang. This is the most northerly seaport of the Malacca Straits. A glance at the captain's chart showed that we had been running northwest since leaving Singapore, and that Pe- nang is where the straits open into the Indian Ocean. Somewhat more than one hundred miles southwest lies the island of Sumatra, farther )■ ,lf ''!■ i, ■■I i i, III 278 AROUND THK WORLD ; fi n Ki south and east are Borneo and Java, and to the north is Bangkok, Tavoy, Mouhnein, and Ran- goon, these last four places being so full of in- terest in connection witli our missionary work. The shores of Penang are well wooded ; hills rise until, inland, they become mountain ranges of considerable size. Penang is separated from the mainland by a narrow strait, forming an island thirteen miles long and five to ten miles wide. Its location, as well as its productions, make it a valuable port. The areca palm, sometimes called the Penang tree, gives its name to the island. This tree is the source of the betel nut, which is cut up and wrapped in a leaf of the same tree, to which is added a small quantity of quicklime, and some- times a little tobacco, and the preparation is vigorously chewed by the natives. The chew- ing gives their teeth and lips the color of blood. The quid lasts about half an hour, and in many cases it is frequently renewed. It is said to be a powerful tonic. The habit of chewing it is well- nigh universal among the lower classes of Asi- atics. In some parts of India, it is said that pepper and cardamon seeds are added to the mixture, and when so prepared, it is believed to be a partial antidote to malarial influences. While in Colombo, I heard that a few days be- fore a native had been fined five rupees for expec- torating this juice on the walls of the Colombo post office. If we had in America a similar law against the habit of expectorating tobacco juice on floors and walls of public buildings, it would ' ■, I PKNANG AND CEYI.ON 2/9 be considered a benediction by thousands of long- suffering citizens. In 1786 Captain Francis Light, an English sea captain, married the daughter of the king of Queda, and received this island as her marriage portion from her father. Then the town con- sisted of but a few Malay fishermen. He trans- ferred the island to the Kast India Company, and he was retained as superintendent and the king received six thousand dollars annually. The island has since greatly increased in population and in commercial importance. The town con- sists of one broad street intersected by other streets at right angles. Its productions are very similar to those of Singapore. Here, as there, the Chinese abound, and here, as there, they domi- nate the natives. The natives are slight, but often tall and straight. They are, for the most part, indolent, shiftless, and nearly unclad. I'hcy are the thoughtless children of nature. There are no domestic relations, as such are understood among truly civilized and Christianized people. The moral life of the people it is not necessary to characterize. Birds of the most gorgeous colors arc every- where seen. Butterflies of great size and bril- liant hues are numerous. This is a land of perpetual summer. The cocoanut tree, in its abundant and varied productions, is a constant marvel. Well might the old Asiatic poets sing of the three hundred and sixty uses wliich its trunk, branches, leaves, fruit, and juice could subserve. From the bud of one variety is ex- 1:1 ■!'jfi iil ,< 'i; i i « ) i ;, .H III 28o AROUND THE WORLD traded a liquor called sarce^ which, when fresh, is cool and wholesome, but which may become hig^hly intoxicating. Penang will long live in the memory as a picture of a land where nature is so indulgent to her children that they have never developed the nobler possibilities of manhood. Better the sterile soil and the chilling tempera- tures which make robust men ; these conditions have developed the races that are to be masters of the world. , I «.'• h ^ On the Indian Ocean. — At ii a.m., Friday, August 23, we sailed from Penang for Colombo, nearly one thousand three hundred miles away, full of anxiety to hasten forward. More than half the journey around the world has been ac- complished, so far as distance is concerned, and about half the time allotted for this trip has been passed ; but what remains to be seen in India, in Egypt, in Palestine, in Athens, and in Constan- tinople is, in many respects, so vastly more im- portant than what has been seen, that we are conscious of an ambition to hasten forward. For a little time after leaving Penang our course was slightly northward, but soon it lay due west across the Indian Ocean, on a line of about the sixth degree of north latitude. This particular part of the trip had been dreaded even before leaving home, and was entered upon with min- gled fear and hope. For a time the good ship " Kaisar-i-Hind " plowed her way through smooth seas and under a clear sky. The air was soft and balmy ; the PKXAXG AND CEYLON 281 :r e ni<^lits were serene and bright. Passengers de- lighted in reclining or walking on the deck, watching the phosphorescent waters, the cloud- less skies, and the gleaming stars. We seemed almost to be in fairyland, floating in a phantom ship between the fleecy clouds above and their reflected and chastened beauty beneath. But after a few days, a moderate southwest monsoon suddenly struck us and it soon changed the spirit of our dreams. It made the decks sug- gestively silent and caused an occasional vacant place at the table. The wind whistled and howled, the waves hissed and moaned, the ship rolled and plunged, but grandly forged ahead through darkness and storm. On Wednesday, August 28, at 5 A. M., we were in the harbor at Colombo. Near us in the har- bor were two other P. & O. boats, the " iVIalta " and the "Himalaya," bound for "home"; there was a German man-of-\\ ar, and there were also several other steamers of various lines. As a matter of course, several passeng-ers repeated second-hand jokes about "Ceylon's isle," where "every prospect pleases, and only man is vile." I had promised myself not to quote these words and so to do something original and heroic, and they are given now only as quoted by others. We were up early this morning, although early rising is not a feature of life on shipboard when coffee, as a part of chota-hazri^ is served at seven in the berth, followed by a nap, and break- fast is at nine ; but letters were expected this morning as soon as some of the officers could ». r. [I '■\ h 282 AROUND THK WORLD ' 'I i'^ '' 'i' fi. return from the P. & O. office. Soon the cabin steward came to my cabin with a package, and a hasty look sliowed on two bulky letters a specimen of chirography which for more than a quarter of a century has not failed to produce a little throb somewhere in the vicinity of the pericardium. There was news which made the heart very glad and some which made it equally sad. It will not be denied that there was a time .of great loneliness as the realization of the thou- sands of miles of distance from family, church, and c^iiUtiy pressed upon mind and heart. A Dilemma. — But plans of travel had to be considered. Inquiry revealed the fact that there was no P. & O. steamer here for Calcutta and that there would be none for two weeks. This possibility was known before leaving New York, but it was said, while coming from: Hong Kong to Colombo, that there would clmost certainl)- be a steamer here on our arrival. What course was it best to adopt? One could profitably spend two weeks, if he had plenty of time, on the island of Ceylon, but two weeks here would lead to a delay of three weeks on the trip because of the unavoidable loss of other connections. There was a tramp steamer soon to leave for Calcutta, but its speed was slow and its accommodations were poor ; that was, therefore, rejected. It was possible to get a steamer soon for Tuti- corin, the extreme point of Southern India. This plan had something in its favor. It would give the opportunity of seeing this town, once PKNANG AND CKYl^ON 2S3 famous for its pearl fisheries, and now a sample of an utterly sleej^y and forsaken place ; of seein > K.J u '■I I i '"-'jr. 286 AKOi'Ni) Tni-; woRi.n lluMv was ;> inij^liU i jiipin- ; lieu- air marvtloiis RMiiaitis of ^ij^aiilic titnpUs and iiia^niruTiil palaiHs ; Ikmv atv i)irlu.sl«>i it- inoimnunls ; Ikmv an- niitis of ilal)»)iaU> systiins of iirij^alioii ; licio is a vast licltl of only partially explored rctiiaitis, wliicli for llic next lialf-niitiiry will he llu" won- der and delight of learned anti(|narians of all nations. Mj^yptians, Persians, (ireeks, Romans, and Arabians traded willi the ports of Ceylon. Many believe that this island was the ()phir of the Hebrews; it eerlainly eorresponds in its pre- cious stones and other forms of mineral wealth to the descriptions in the Bible of that land of precious qems. 'Phe };ems of Ceylon have been celebrated from time immemorial. vSapphires, rtd)ies, topaz, amethysts, cinnamon stone, cat's eye, and };^arnets arc the principal ^ems and ])re- cions stones of the island. The most valuable is the sapphire. In 1S53 one was found worth twenty thousand dollars. The pearl fisheries arc also famous. The traveler who judj^cs the ancient Sinhalese — that is ])robably the better spcUinj^ — by the voluble venders of spurious j»ems met with in Kaudy or C(>lond)o, will do j^reat injustice to a wonderful race and to his own re])Utation as an intellis^cnt critic. Just now there is a revival of interest in this pco])le and in their prehistoric monuments. The modern Sinhalese is certainly no fair representative of a people that could build a city of i>ioantic monoliths, carve a mountain into a j>;raceful shrine, and adorn its monuments ^f ':! I il'-lt IMvNANC. AND CICYI.ON 2.H7 111 willi |)ill;iis .'111(1 c.'ipilals not iinwottliy of Citik ail in tlu' (lass «)!" its nuridiaii ^lory. < )l course this writer eoiild not in liis luiel" visit to the island, |k rsonally examine the remains of these Imiiefl eities,- the months of jannary and l'\l)- rnary are liie time for that ])nri)ose, — hnt he- has learned enough to start him on new liir. sof read- iiio and thonj^ht, and he wishes to ineite all his leaders to i)iirsne similar lines of iiKjuiry. 'riliv Maiiavvanso. — The vSinhalese are not a literary nation; they have not jnodiiced a sinj^de author of literary j)rominenee. lint they have j^iveii the world a series of ehronieles of nnim- peaehed aulhentieily which hrinj^^ their history down from the earliest times to the last century. These chronicles are known as the " Mahawan- so," or " (ienealoj^^y of the (ireat " and vSir James I^merson Teiieiil, in his work on Ceylon, <^ive.s a full account of their character. They were bej^nn hy a Ihiddhist ])riest in A. d. 460, and his work covers the period from 543 n. c, when the Sinhalese first reached Ceylon, to A. D. 301. Various monastic successors of this ])riest have carried the work down to the time of the Hritish rule. '1 his says that in 543 H. c, Wijeyo, a son of one of the petty princes in the valley of the (tallies, and his Sinhalese followers landed in Ceylon and conquered the primitive peoples. The chronicles explain the name of the race hy tracing it to Sinlia, the word for a lion. Whatever of doubt may attach to these jarly chronicles, the monuments bear a testimony of i 1. i\, I i t t I- 288 AROir.Ni) Till': woui.n \% ' ' » . ' «♦ i J'' M,; ■ 1 f 1 < r| '1111 iff tlicir own. Who were tlit- arlists whoso skill and taste cover snch extensive areas ? Were they Sinhalese or Tamils? Did these two ethnoloj^i- cally distinct races become one race? Where did the vast stones come from ? How were they transported ? Were elephants em ployed to trans- port these j>reat stones? How were they raised to their positions withont the aid of cranes or l)nlleys? Was the space filled with earth, an inclined plane formed, and thep^reat masses tluis placed in position? Who can tell? How were these j^reat bnildin^s bron. '' .;• i '• ■ ; !.-hi 290 AROUND THE WORLD the positions requiring edncation. By the laws of Hindnism a Brahman who crosses the sea loses caste; therefore, only Brahmans of inferior posi- tion or damaged rcpntation go to Ceylon. The Sinhalese are less vitrorons and ener^\ i/')' 1'^ -' .;♦ » J ' ^ i' '. t l\,.i 1 .!^' i I w \l' 1 1 I' > ir ^;r ^'i^r 298 AROUND THK WORM) ^lohf-lrotter. It was aniusinj^ to sec the little oxen driven sinj^ly to yoke or harness and trot- tin*^ thronj^h the streets with three or fonr men or women in the earriaj^e, and they do trot (jiiite fast. Yon can hire a man and a boat for an honr for a mere trifle ; the same remark applies to carriaj^cs i\m\y///n'.{-/s//(is. Men who live in the ICast forj^et how to help themselves ; they have servants for everythinj^ and at every tnrn. There is great danger tliat the spirit of caste may be enconraged ; because of this system of service it is almost inevitable. It has to be guarded against even in missionary work. Many of the men are tall, erect, and stately ; and they are lithe, wiry, and strong. In their scant clothing standing on a street corner they looked not unlike bronze statues. Some of them wear skirts, and their hair being done up in a queer knot with a shell comb surrounding the head, they look very effeminate. Young boys, with their satin skin, white teeth, and bright eyes, are often handsome, but as they grow older they lose their beauty and become indolent and languid creatures. Some of the women might be called pretty. The " get-up " of nearly all is unique ; silver and brass jewelry adorns the tops and bottoms of their ears, rings are on their toes, and " bells " also, for silver coins are attached to the rings ; fingers, ankles, and wrists are often similarly adorned, and sometimes the rest of the body is very scantily clothed. Mr. Ballon and others call attention to the women employed as nurses by the wives of Eng- i' •. / CITI1<:S OK CKYI.ON 299 lish officers. They form a scpanitc class, and tliey luivc developed a remarkable taste for cheap jewelry ; they are dressed in the "loudest" pos- sible style. Some of them I chanced to meet. They wear a white linen j^arment, cut very low and reachinj^ to the knee ; over this is a blue cut- away jacket, covered with braid and buttoiis, and drawn in at the waist with a sash. Perhaps this description is not very intellij^ible, but I have done my best in a new department of literature. These nurses arc very affectionate and to them children become much attached. The Sinhalese seem to be painfully conscious of the superiority of the white races; they call every white man "master," and all the sho[)- keepcrs he^y the " master " to buy this or that. Jinrikisha men, bep^,c^ars, and shopmen are pain- fully persistent. They follow one throu<^h the streets offerinjj;- their services ; on one occasion no fewer than five formed a procession around or behind me, until decided words drove them away. The population in Colombo is very mixed, Sinhalese, Nubians, Arabs, Javanese, Afj^hans, Kaffirs, and Jews being- constantly seen, but there are no Chinamen. I saw on the street three American Nep^roes, their speech and dress indi- cating their country ; they were probably cooks on some sailing ship in the harbor. Crows are plentiful. They hover about the ships, fill the streets, are everywhere ; probably they are in some sense scavengers in the towns of the East. The Sinhalese canoe is long and very n irrow and has an outrigger fastened by Ut I- t'v i ■ \\. !i; .1 5i; I /' / u ir>. ■ i r ' r^ »',! i^ .',' :> ' 'J 300 AUOl'ND rilK WORM) arched bamboo poles. With this apparently frail craft the natives will ventnre far out in al- most any weather. They also have catamarans in frequent use, similar in design to boats I saw at the Hawaiian Islands ; but the latter boats, like the people, were much better in finish and in appearance. A Comparison. — How does the Island of Cey- lon compare with the Hawaiian Islands? That is a fair question, and to it I give as fair an an- swer as possible. In historic interest, in variety of productions, in size and solidity of hotels, shops, offices, and some public buildings, Colom- bo far surpasses Honolulu ; but in well cultivated lawns, trained .shrubs, superb lines of royal palms, luxuriant growths of many other beauti- ful tropical trees, and in the intelligence of the natives and the enterprise and success of foreign- ers, and especially in the charm of its matchless atmosphere, Honolulu stands peerless among all the islands of the seas, and in the last respect among the countries of the world. Colombo is more than four times the size of Honolulu, and gives evidences in many ways of its great an- tiquity and varied forms of civilization. Hono- lulu has just been rescued from savagery ; but it has made noteworthy progress and gives promise of a still more remarkable future. Much interest was felt in all this region over the funeral of the sultan of Johore, who died in London early in June He was widely know in London, and at one time figured in an unsavory CITIKS OK CKYKON 301 social scandal ; he was not nnknown in America. He was a man of ability in many ways, and showed an appreciation of the proj^ress made by civilized nations. His remains were carried by the P. & O. steamer " Bombay " nntil they were taken on board Her Majesty's Crniser " Mercnry," which was to convey them to Penanst riMpiii'. 'This iinpiii* (.oiisists of t\vil\(' |>io\itu\'s iliicolly uiitli'i Hritisli c-oiitn)!, mikI nl' al)OMt owe luimlrnl ami lilly ItMulaloiy vStalis and |>iiuiMpalitios wliioli acknow li-ds^r tlir aiithotity i>r [he Hiilish cn^wn. 'Tlio wholo ciiipiio lom- pvisos about owe million \\\c hnndicd thousand sijuaio miles, ami piMliaps two humlicd and ciohtv to tluvi' Inuuhod nnllion inhabitants, in- dudiui; what is known as Hiitish Hnrma. Attcn- tiiin has boon called ti> tlu* fact that tlu- area and ]>opnlation arc just about t'(|ual to that of all l*!uio|v. loss the cmpiivof Russia; and also that tho |H>pulation is nu)iv than donl>lc that of all iuijHMial Komc, imdiulino- all the races and nations that acknowlcdjL^vd the Roman authority in the days of its meridian splend(M'. (iibbon makes the population of Rome at that time one lunulred am; twenty millions. •i' jih', '^ \d i' » I \ (•'I Nl'* India. — The Indians really liavc no name to describe their vast country. Bharata is the name of a legendary king of the Lunar line ;oj ** INhlKA " A'W ol Sn\i Icij-lis. Ill Slllisklit lllc tIMIIlc til" llic iniiiih)' \v<»iilc I'.liat.'il.i-v.MsliM, lint it Ims 1)1(11 well N.iid lli.il Siiiiskiil is no iiion- llic hm- ^MiajL^f nl" [\\v cntmli V tliaii I.aiin is llu- laii^iia^c Sir Joliii Stiaclu y tills lis in liis k (ciil v<»liiim' oil India Ihal tlic inosi csstnlial lad ahoiil India wliicii a stiidiiit «»f thai connlry can Icain is, paradoxical as llic slalciiicnt may sccni, that tlicic is no such country as India. That is simply a name which wc j^ivc to a rcj^ion rcjncscntin;^ a niimhcr of coiinliics. lie also reminds iis that the dilTcieiicis hctwit'ii lUiij^al and the Piinjal), or hetwccn Madias and Kajpnlaiia are, heyond comparison, j.',nater than hetwccn the different coiintriis of I'airope. He ariinns that Scotland is more like vS|)aiii than lUiij^al is like the I'lin- jal). The iiativi' of Calcutta or liomhay is as niiicli a forcij^iicr in Delhi or Peshawar, as an haij^lishman is a forei^^ner in Rome or Paris. Hiitain iicvi-r con(|iiered the people of India; till re never was a peoj)le of India, never a lan- }4nan;e of India, never a religion of India, never a national sentiment in India. 'iMiere never was a country of India in the sense of there heiii^r any sort of unity, physical, social, or relij^rions. P.ritaiii merely coiupiercd India's coiu|ncrors. The name Ilindnstan is sinii)ly Hindu and s//r// or s//ur//^ meaninj;- land, or settled habita- tion; hnt this word is of Persian ori^n'n, and thus the iiaiiic means jnst the land or habitation of the Hinclns, or of the river Indus, just as Afghanistan is the land of the Afghans. The 1 1 ' 1 V ] ' . t t i ■ i > s 1 I i I. ;iiiii a! I \ ii ^'SSSMi^j T 304 AROUND THE WORLD \'i i i(i ' I '■ ' f Persians ai)plied the name Hindus at first only to the dwellers on the banks of the river Sind/iit ; this was the Sanskrit name for Indus. The chanj^e of s into h gives us the Persian Jlind. The Greeks borrowed the name from the Persians, and by the ])eculiarity of the Greek tongue, Hind became Ind. By certain linguistic causes this name was tlius given at first to the valley of the Indus, and later to the whole country. Sometimes we speak of the East Indies as opposed to the West Indies, but while this is an old name and is still foinid in some of the early Parliamentary records, it is acknowledged by all to be an inaccurate name. Bishop John F. Hurst entitles his work on India, " Indika," de- riving the title from the Greek Megasthenes, who was the first writer to portray the inner life of India to the western world. Strictly speaking, Indika means Indian things. The book which Megasthenes wrote on his return to Greece was an account of his travels in the distant land of India. This is not, therefore, a title of the country so much as a word meaning certain things in that country. ^;l ',\\ The Country Described. — India is the mid- dle of the three irregularly shaped peninsulas wliicli jut southward from the mainland of Asia. Attention has been called to the fact of the simi- larity of position between India and Italy on the map. India is a vast triangle with its base on the H'malayan range of mountains ; the west side is washed, for the most part, by the Arabian U " INDIKA " 305 Sea. It is bounded on the north by China, Turk- istan, and Tibet, from which it is separated by the Himalayan range. On the east by Burma and Siani, and on the west by Baluchistan and Afghanistan. The coast of the country east of Cape Comorin, the southern extremity of the peninsula, is washed by the bay of Bengal. The extent of the coast line is upward of four thou- sand miles in all, and one-half of this distance is on the bay of Bengal. The extreme length of the Peninsula from north to south is about nineteen hundred miles, and its extreme breadth from east to west, not including British Burma, is about seventeen hundred miles. In the north are the extensive river basins of the Indus and the Ganges. In the central portion of the country is the great diamond shaped table- land, with its greatest length from north to south. The plain of the Indus comprises the Punjab. This is " the country of the five rivers." The plain of Sind is rainless and unproductive except as artificially irrigated. The plain of the Ganges constitutes Hindustan proper ; this is the densely populated region, teeming with fertility and especially rich in historic interest. The high- lands of central India comprehend the whole of the interior plateau not included in the Deccan. The Deccan was the term originally applied to the whole peninsula of India south of the Ner- budda River; but the term is now greatly re- stricted. This portion of the country consists for the most part of an elevated table-land en- closed by plains which reach to the seashore, u I' ■: i u. 1 11% St 1 I ! Vi • 1 " I.i I ' i i I 1 ' i« n t'^^ ■i'\ ff« ' 1.;^ .1 i.i ■ . \ I ■ ■/ 306 AROUND TIIK WORLD and being buttressed by the eastern and western Ghats. I may be permitted to refer aj^ain to Sir John Strachey. Pie calls attention to the danger arising from over-bold generalizations on India. Nothing conld be more complete than the delu- sion that the people generally live on rice. In the greater part of India rice is a luxury en- joyed only by the comparatively rich. It grows chiefly where the climate is hot and damp. He estimates that out of the whole population not more than one-fourth live on rice. Millets and pulses are the chief food of the people in many parts of India. Many people get their ideas of India from what they have seen or heard on the coasts, and because the ordinary food iu I^ower Bengal is rice, it is assumed that this is the ordinary food all over the country. Sir Henry Maine shows how Mr. Buckle, in the general introduction to his " History of Civilization," has erred by his unwise generalization. He de- rives all the distinctive institutions of India, and the peculiarities of the people, from their con- sumption of rice. This food, he tells us, " is of an oxygenous rather than a carbonaceous char- acter, hence the law of caste prevails, that oppres- sion is rife, that rents are high, and that customs and laws are stereotyped." Sir John Strachey wisely remarks that : " This is as if an Iiidi.uj traveler, landing on the west coast of Ireland, and finding that the people live on potatoes, were to assume that potatoes were the ordi- nary food throughout Europe, and was to base upon the fact conclusions regarding the condi- i-l "indika" 3^7 tioiis of society in Germany and Spain." These unwise j^^eneralizations will account for the many contradictory statements which we hear from many persons who have lived in only one sec- tion of India and who have had but few oppor- tunities for travel or mingling with the people of different sections. It is an interesting fact that when the sun sets at six o'clock in Calcutta it is just midday in England, and early morning in New York. Ik , A Rich Continent. — India is rich in varie- ties of scenery, climate, and productions. It boasts the highest mountains in the world, and the country slopes from these lofty heights to the vast river deltas. It is not really a country, in the ordinary sense of the term, but rather a continent. Himalaya means the " dwelling-place of snow," the Sanskrit word for snow being ///may and the word for house, or abode, being alaya. These mountains form a double wall along the north of India, and at their eastern and western extremities they send oul offshoots to the south. The country is immensely productive when prop- erly watered by rain or by irrigation. Three harvests are often reaped, and there are never less than two. Rice, contrary to the ordinary opinion, is the staple crop in only a small part of India, and the daily food of only a compara- tively small proportion of the people. Elephants are a government monopoly, and shooting them is prohibited except under well-recognized re- strictions. The right to capture elephants is » 1- ,t ; i .• \ 'I I. 308 AROUND THE WORLD >;^ 1 1 1.4 'V )/ A. r r'M] ' r' m )i 'f ': : '^ leased out tinder special laws. There is a fine of five hundred rupees for tlie first offense of the man who kills, captures, injures, or attempts to injure, capture, or kill an elephant. Few people know how deadly the poisonous snakes of India are. It is often supposed that the stories regarding this matter are greatly exaggerated, but statistics show that in 1877, nearly seventeen thousand persons were killed by snakes as compared with eight hundred and nineteen who were killed by tigers. During the same year the sum of eight hundred and eleven pounds was paid for the destruction of one hun- dred and twenty-seven thousand snakes. One-third of the country is still under the control of native hereditary rulers. The popu- lation subject to these rulers is about fifty-four millions, or about one-fifth of the whole popula- tion of the countrv. The results of recent efforts made to secure the exact census indicate that the population is larger and not smaller than was usually estimated. According to the report of the registrar general upon the English census of 1 87 1, " Any density of a large country approach- ing two hundred to a square mile implies mines, manufactories, or the industry of cities." But in India there is a density of six hundred to a square mile throughout large districts of the country. This is a remarkable statement, as showing the great density of population in most parts of that vast empire. There is a well-graded system of education throughout the country ; and there are three lU' "indika" 309 universities, one each at Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay. A certain number of colleges are as- sociated with each of these universities. Below these colleges are high schools, where students are prepared to enter the colleges and univer- sities. There are also middle schools and pri- mary schools, where an elementary education is afforded. The colleges are numerous in different parts of the peninsula. The Indian educational system is designed to encourage the cultivation of the English language and to diffuse a knowl- edge of European science, art, and philosophy ; but very much still remains to be done regarding the impartation of even the rudiments of educa- tion. Enormous portions of the territory are yet practically untouched by British instruction or any civilizing influence. Sir John Strachey, in the volume to which allusion has already been made, charges James Mill with great mis- representations regarding Warren Hastings and his alleged cruelties in the province of Rohil- khand. The history of Mr. Mill, he charges, is "saturated with party politics." Sir John person- ally investigated the facts regarding the sale and extermination of the Rohillas, having spent sev- eral years of his Indian service in that province. He declares that no one there ever heard of the atrocities which still fill Englishmen with shame ; that the ICnglish army was not hired out for the destruction of the Rohillas ; that the story of their destruction is purely fictitious ; that Mill garbled his quotations, utterly misleading his readers ; that Lord Maccvulay accepted Burke ■« C m k ' '|; A ■'I ' \:\ !«. ' • 3IO AROUND THE WORI.D m '' « '?^ : I and Mill as authorities; that thus Macaulay was misled ; that these false statements are mislead- ing intelligent Indian youths, creating in their minds feelings of bitterness toward Britain ; and that, finally, this entire period of history will yet be rewritten, giving the truth which has so long been concealed- This is a matter of the utmost importance, and I am well satisfied that Sir James Stephen, Sir Henry Maine, and Sir John Strachey, by their robust, careful, and dispassion- ate criticism, place all students of history under a great debt of gratitude, and relieve the reputa- tions of many Englishmen in the early days of European history in India of enormous alleged cruelties which never were committed. The railway system dates from the adminis- tration of Lord Dalhousie. The first line of rail- way was projected in 1843, by Sir Macdonald Stevenson, who was afterward active in forming the East India Railway Company ; but the fi- nancial panic, which soon afterward followed, entirely defeated for the time being the project wh" h had been inaugurated. Bombay saw the first sod for a railway turned in 1850, a line of road to Thana, a distance of only three miles, was opened in 1853. I^oi' . ' ', . ' i 1 L i 1 1 '■J '} 4* ] .•• I ■*1 * ■ .: ■ I- •I / , '< i\\ (! k.-\ >• 312 AROUND THE WORLD rule of the East India Company. This lasted from 1600 to 1857, when the Sepoy rebellion necessitated a change in the government. The present government has continued since 1857. It became evident after the Sepoy rebellion that to hold India the government itself must be di- rectly responsible. The real work of governaient is done by the local body in India. The queen, who is empress of India, of course is nominally the supreme head of authority. In exceptional cases the gov- ernor general may act independently of the coun- cil. There is an executive council meeting reg- ularly at short intervals, and there is also a legislative coimcil, meeting 01; ly when required. The secretary of state for India is vested with vast power. He represents the sovereign ; he can veto any legislative enactment, and the vice- roy and his council in India are almost entirely under his control. He is governed by the advice of the local council, and his course usually is considerate and wise, but his power is well-nigh unlimited. The viceroy, often called the gov- ernor general, is appointed by the queen, and his term lasts five years. His winter capital is at Calcutta, where he lives in the great Government House, with almost regal honors; but his sum- mer capital is in Simla. For administrative purposes there are five provincial governments ; and each of these is equipped with civil and judi- cial officials. The two presidencies of Madras and Bombay still retain evidences of their orig- inal equality with Bengal ; each has an army, t-ii 1 i I the " indika" 3^3 and each a civil service of its own ; each also has a governor directly appointed to his place with the execntivc and legislative conncil. The Cluirch of England exercises a vast amount of authority in India. The bishop of Calcutta is the metropolitan bishop, and there is a bishop of the Church of England in Madras, Bombay, and the Punjab. Tliere are some chap- lains of the Church of Scotland, but the great ma- jority of the well-nigh two hundred chaplains belong to the Cliurch of England. These chap- lains are supported at enormous cost. Perhaps it would not be discourteous to say that they by no means are worth that cost. I had the opportunity of meeting many offi- cers of the army and learned much concerning both the native and the British armies in India. It is a matter for sincere sorrow that immorality prevails to so large a degree in the British army and is now making its way also into the native regiments of the country. Facts learned con- cerning this matter are of the gravest kind and are worthy of the most careful consideration of officers, of Christians, and of all patriots and philanthropists, both in Great Britain and in India. The army for India, during the government of the country by the East India Company, did not form a part of the regular army of Great Britain. There is now a large body of English soldiers all the time in India. India pays the bill for her soldiers, both native and European. I was surprised to learn that the government at ^ , .;i •M 1 . . I \ » 1. !!'i ( ' ' I i . \ i :4* f; V! , .... ^1 % ^ 'i;l fi I I 1/5 314 AROUND THK WORM) home does not pay a shillinj^ toward their sup- port, not even the expenses of their transporta- tion. It is thus a fact that nearly one-third of the British army costs tiie liritish taxpayer alxso- hitely nothinj^. Tlie present stren<;tli of the army is two hundred and thirty tliousand ; and of this number about seventy tliousand are luiro- pean troops. Thirty thousand are made up of the militia, the younj^^ nien in the various offices and railway companies bein<; rej^ularly drilled and liable to be called upon for service at a mo- ment's notice. The native soldiers number about one hundred and thirty thousand. The annual cost of supporting; this army is put down at ;^i6,ooo,ooo ; of which sum ;^i2, 000,000 is spent in India. The horses for the cavalry serv- ice are mostly brought from Australia. This native army is thoroughly well drilled. I was freqently told that no part of the army of Great Britain is more thoroughly equipped for service than the native regiments of India. The officers and soldiers long for the opportunity of showing to Great Britain and to the world what they can do on the field of battle. If Great Britain and the United States should engage in war, native regiments from India rep- resenting various tribes and faiths, would be brought immediately into conflict with American .soldiers. India pays her own bills for her sol- diers and Great Britain takes remarkable care to guard herself from liabilities for this. Britain rules India largely by Indian troops and makes India pay for keeping herself in subjection. iv*^ \ ^ I .1. XXVI ^ k CONQUESTS OK INDIA AT the dawn of Indian history two races arc seen stnig^^linjr for the soil. ( )nc is a fair- skinned people, who seem to have but lately en- tered the country by the northwest passes. They were of the lains to the mountains or made them their slaves. All au- thorities are now agreed that the Hindus were not the first inhabitants of the country, but were an invading race. The Aborigines.— These rude aboriginal tribes are still in the central and southern por- tions of India. We do not know the race name of the lower tribes ; they are, therefore, generally called non-Aryan, or aborigines. They have left no written records. Their monuments which have come down to us are rude stone circles and upright slabs beneath which they buried their dead. They were supposed to have consisted of three great stocks— the Tibeto-Rurman tribes, the Kolarian tribes, and the Dravidian. War seems 315 r f ' '^1 \] -. '-1 Hi ■, 1 316 AROUND THK WORLD '¥.■ \) J * .. ! to have Ik'lmi their chief occupation; it is ahnost certain that they were not accinainted with tlie use of metals, but used rou^h flint weapons of various sorts. Other tribes succeeded them wlio fouj^ht with stone implements, not unlike those used by early vScandinavian peoples. Then came a race that knew the use of metals, that fouj^ht with iron weapons, and that wore copper and ^old ornaments. The Vedic hymns teach us that the conquerors called the conquered peoples Dasas^ or slaves. They despised them as flat- nosed or noseless, and as feeders on flesh. In Bengal the name Dasas still remains as the name of many of the lower classes. The race from the nortli prided themselves on their fair complexions, and the word for color, varua^ came to mean race or caste. Their poets, perhaps four th /usand years a^o, praised in t' '^. " Ris[- vcda " their <^ods who had protected Aryan color and who had " subjected the blas.iv skin to the Aryan man." We now come to the period of the j^reat in- vasions of India. There are many le<^ends of the sovereigns of the race of the sun and the moon. Their contests are recorded in the poem known as the " Mahabharatay The most cele- brated of these was Rama Ramchunder. He is supposed to have lived in the twelfth or thir- teenth century b. c. His deeds are the subject of the great epic called the *■'• Rajuayaua^ These legends tell us that a battle of fifty-six kings was fought for eighteen days; but all these matters are purely legendary. The first event to which CONQUKSTS OK INDIA Z^7 H we can attach liistoric iniportaticc was tlic in- vasion of India l)y tlic Persians under Kinj^^ Darius, about 518-512 h. C. Ilcaltaclied oreat provinces to his empire, so that it is said that one-third of tiie revenues of tile Persian ertjwn came from tlie provinces on the Indus. The Grhkk Pkriod. — In 327 h. c. Alexander the (ireat invaded India. We have from tlie historians of his expedition extensi\'e accounts of the manners and customs of the Hindu races; but there is not space in tliis chapter to <^o into the details of tliis invasion. After the downfall of this empire India was divided into a ninnber of petty king;doms. Great importance is attached by all historians to the Greek episode in Indian history ; it was the revival of intercourse between long separated members of the <:^reat Arvan family. Bishop Hurst calls attention to the fact that the two j^roups were strau<>;ely alike, whether studying astrology on the plains of Delhi, or rearing the matchless Parthenon at Athens, or building on the banks of the Tiber a city which should become the mistress of the world. Indeed, as he reminds us, the ancient Hindu Pantheon is strangely similar to that of the Greeks. This subject is worthy of careful consideration by all who wish to become masters of the influences exercised by the great Aryan races. The Scythian invasion, continuing from 100 B. c. to 500 A. D., started not far from the origi- nal home of the Aryan race ; they marched down through the northwest pass into India, and they (I, ■( I. ■n 3i8 AROUND T n: WORLD I i reared on the ruins of the Greek colonies a great kingdom. Tlie rule of the native Hindu in India lasted about five hundred years. India came rgain into relation with the external world in 715 A. D., when the Mohammedan governor of Bassorah sent an army to obtain restitution of the Arab vessel which had been captured near the niouth of the Indus. Then began tne course of the Mohammedan conquerors. No one can understand the history who is not familiar with this remarkable and, in many ways, brilliant era in the history of this great country. An entire volume might be devoted to this element in the history and civilization of the Indian peninsula. There we 'e great conquerors, marvelous builders and founders of empires among these invaders. Of some of these rulers mention will be made in connection with the cities which they founded and the great buildings which they erected. Modern Contacts. — The Portuguese were the first of the nations of modern Europe to obtain a foothold in India. In the sixteenth century they seized some ports on the western coast and finally made themselves masters of important cities and districts. Their capital was Goa. All that the Portuguese now possess in India are Goa, Daman, and Din, with a population of about one- half a million and a territorv of four hundred square miles. They are a mixed people, half Indian and half Portuguese. The men are en- gaged largely as sailors and in other foiuis of sea-going service. \\\ h.\ Vk I . I ' *llj T CONQUESTS OF INDIA 319 The Dutch were the next Europeans to invade Indian territory. In 1594 they reached the eastern seas ; in 1605 they expelled the Portu- guese from certain territories and ccntrolled the commerce of the seas until driven out by the English. The Danes secured two settlements in India, both of which are widely known in con- nection with missionary history, and to one of which I shqll have occasion to allude later. The French organized their East India Companies in 1604 ; and as early as the fourteenth century they roamed over many seas and organized set- tlements in many countries, both on the east and on the west. But the English, were des- tined to put an end to the hope of French do- minion in India by their victory near Madras, in 1759- The English East India Company was char- tered in London in 1600, and soon it erected fortifications and established trading posts in many parts of the peninsula. For nearly a cen- tury and a half tliis great company was almost omnipotent in its relations to In lia and to the other countries having j. sts in that land. It finally surpassed them all in its claims of suprem- acy. This company was re-aly the British nation. For a long period France and Britain strove for the first place. Associated with Clive were Watson, Coote, Forde , and Warren Hastings. Terrible were the conflicts between the British and various Indian tribes. The conflict with the Mahrattas began in 1775 and lasted for seven years. ^-'r ly. f a ;. :'•' mi »tl 320 AROUND THE WORLD Great Britain in Control. — The story of British dominion is marked by great crnelty, often, doubtless, necessary, and by great trials, but by continuous victories. The " Black Hole of Calcutta " suggests a tragedy which will never be forgotten in British history. The battle of Plassey, which Clive fought against the judgment of a council of war, was one of the turning-points in the struggles of Britain for supremacy in India. This battle gave Northern India to the British crown. Between 1818 and 1857 ^^^^ supremacy of Great Britain was apparently complete. In 1857 came the terrible mutiny known as the Sepoy rebellion. The British government had always been lenient in dealing with the natives and native tribes. The real cause of the mutiny was the realization on the part of the remaining scions of the old princely families that British supremacy would soon be complete and the native authority be entirely overthrown. There were minor causes ; it was said that the British government in making cartridges used the grease of cows and hogs, and that the na- tives would be polluted when they bit off the ends of their cartridges in loading their guns. The use of this grease was an offense to the caste prejudice both of the Hindu and the Mo- hammedan. Of the mutiny I shall speak more fully when we visit Cawnpore, Lucknow, and Delhi. The greatest blessing which could possibly have come to India was the triumph of Britain over all European claims for Indian territory, ■m I , ■;i C! ^ CONQUESTS OF INDIA 321 and over all the ambitions of the tribes them- selves. Wherever the British fiacr went, civil and religions liberty speedily followed. To-day there are immensely difficnlt problems for Great Britain in the management of the Indian penin- sula. As we have seen, a large portion of the territory is still under the control of native princes. They are loyal in a certain way to the British crown, and as between Great Britain and Russia they prefer Great Britain ; but if they believed that Russia would be victorious, should a conflict arise, they would quickly transfer their allegiance to the victor. Great Britain is nianaging the enormously great problems of In- dian government with remarkable wisdom. The British government in India -s a despot- ism ; the people, strictly speaking, have no voice m the government of their country, but it is a beneficent and perhaps a necessary despotism. There is, however, a new India coming to the front. It is made up in part of Anglo-Indians of the second and third generation in India, and in part of educated Indians themselves, who will want, before many years shall pass, a voice in the government. They must prepare themselves for the honors and responsibilities which await thein in the development of this new India. The hope of the land is in the dissemination of Christianity. Nothing but Christianity, with its attendant education, will break down the bar- riers of caste now separating the various classes iii^ India. The spirit of caste seriously interferes with the unity and effectiveness of the army, it ' '1. 'I 'i ■ I: I- ( M 322 AROUND THK WORLD y. \'f Jit ; ■/) 1. practically destroys all social life, and it makes the governinent of India an extremely difficult task ; but Great Britain, under the guidance of Christian faith and its resulting civil and relig- ious liberty, will solve all the difficult problems and will move on toward the highest possibil- ities of this great country before the twentieth century shall be past. Reugions and Peoples. — It is authorita- tively stated that nineteen out of every twenty in India are either Hindu or Mohammedan, but that there are seven Hindus to every two IMoham- uiedans. The old races of the southern part of the country are known as the Dravidians ; the hill tribes of central India belong to the family known as the Kolarian ; the tribes of Indo-Chi- nese origin inhabit the southern slopes of the Himalayas, the greater part of the At.;^am Valley, and much of Burma. The high caste Hindus are supposed to be an offshoot of the noble Aryan race. The successful waves of Moham- medan conquerors exercised much influence on the civilization and architecture of the country. It is supposed that there are at least forty mil- lions of Mohammedans now in India. They be- long to four classes, and one class claims to be the lineal descendants of the great prophet. The Sikhs are confined almost entirely to the Pun- jab. Their strongest districts include the his- torical cities of Lahore, Amritsar, and Amballa. There are nearly one hundred thousand nom- inal Cliristians of various names. It is supposed ■!!■ CONQUESTS OF INDIA 323 that at least one quarter of them are of Euro- pean orio^in, or at least possess some European blood. In southern India the work of the mis- sionaries has greatly changed the statistics of the country, but in the northern part of India that influence has not yet been powerfully felt. Christianity has been in southern India for many centuries. We know that tradition speaks of the preaching of the Apostle Thomas in dif- ferent parts of southern India. The Roman Church was the first that secured a foothold, through Xavier and his followers. There is still an enormous amount of missionary work to be done in India. When one contemplates the vastness of the field yet unoccupied he is almost ready to say that nothing has yet been done, but the next quarter of a century will probably see greater triumphs of Christianity than were wrought during all of the century now closing. This century has largely been a period of preparation. All the elements of civili- zation in railways, telegraphs, printing presses, telephones, and the many other forms of scien- tific progress, will now be consecrated to the spread of the gospel and to the advancement of all the interests of Indian civilization and Christianization. ti' ;1'4 :'n i\ '$ i \ ■i< r. i ii XXVII CALCUTTA ;,ili,!|.: IT was our purpose to arrive at Calcutta by steamer froui Colombo ; but, as no steamer was jjoiuo^ immediately to Calcutta, we sailed for Bombay, and the trip from Bombay to Calcutta was made by railway. It is not necessary now to give the details of the journey across the country, as the return journey with its visits to its varied historic cities will be fully described. The approach to Calcutta by sea is most strik- ing. The pilots on the Hugli River — this is the latest authoritative spelling — are well educated and occupy a more responsible position than any other pilots on the coast. The river is danger- ous and extremely difficult for navigation ; not only are there at certain seasons of the year fear- ful cyclones, but the bed of the river changes constantly. New shoals are continually form- ing and in order that a pilot may safely take his vessel over the river, he must have experimental knowledge of the shoals and tides. One of the most dangerous of the shoals is called the "James and Mary." Some suppose that the name dates to the wreck of a vessel called the " Royal James and Mary" on that bank in 1694; but there is another and better explanation of the origin of 324 >' CALCUTTA 325 the name. It is said that in Hindi jal means water, and mari means fatal, so that the two words mean "fatal water." I heard the most tlirillin^ stories of the terrible experiences of captains of varions vessels in this '' fatal water." Onr arrival was by rail and not by steamer, and therefore some of the m >st interesting^ views of approach to the city were not experienced. India's Capital. — The word " Calcntta " is the Kn<^lish form of "A7?// Ghaita^'''' and this means simply t\\Q. ^^haty or landing-place, of the ji^oddess Kali, wife of Siva, whose temple stood on the bank of the river. Calcutta is the capital of the province of Renewal, and the political cap- ital of India, and so the seat of the suprenie g'ov- ernment. It is about eighty to one hundred miles from the seaboard by the river. The city is built along the bank of the River Hugli, an arm of the Ganges, for a distance of about eight miles. Since the opening of the Suez Canal, Bombay has become a sharp rival in all com- mercial respects. At the close of the seven- teenth century Calcutta was little more than a cluster of muddy villages : now, however, it has a population of nearly nine hundred thousand. Its founding, by Governor Cliarnock, took place in the year 1686. Then the British mer- chants at Hugli were obliged to leave their fac- tory and go tw::nty-six miles down the river to Sutanati. Their settlement spread rapidly, and soon it included what was the village of Cal- cutta of that day. In 1689-90 the members of t-\ S %\ kI NYi; 326 AROUND THE WORLD m < ij '.hi f; I i the East India Company determined to make this place their headquarters, and in 1696 they built the original F'ort William. In 1700 three vil- lages surrounding the factories were conferred upon the company by the emperor of Delhi, and a moat was constructed. The place was subse- quently called Calcutta, the name of one of the villages. There were natural advantages in the town which enabled the people to protect them- selves from the Mahrattas, and Calcutta, in 1707, was made the seat of a presidency, and soon be- came one of the safest places in India for trade. The low level of the Hugli River, however, reridered drainage very difficult, and the result was that until a recent date malaria was very common. The jungle and paddy fields closely hemmed in the European residences. The Mai- dan, with its gardens and promenades, where every evening the rank and fashion of Calcutta may be seen, was then a swamp for a part of each year. The spacious Wellington Square was built on the filthy creek. So great was the mor- tality in that early day, that many sailors and others represented the name Calcutta as being- equivalent to Golgotha, the "place of a skull.'' In 1756, June 20, a terrible misfortune befell the rising town ; it was sacked and Fort William was captured by Surajah Dowlah, the Indian ruler of Bengal. The majority of the English residents escaped to the mouth of the Hugli ; all the Europeans who remained were compelled, after undergoing a two days' siege, to surrender to the young prince, and one hundred and forty- "•( '^ '.: CAI.CUTTA 327 SIX of them were driven, at the point of the sword, into the ^niard-rooni. This was a cham- ber only from eighteen to twenty feet square, and It had only two small barred windows on one side. The sufferings of these wretched pris- oners from pressure, heat, thirst, and want of air It is terrible to contemplate. In the morniiur only twenty-three out of one hundred and fort)''- six ghastly creatures were found alive ; all the rest had been suffocated in this dungeon, which IS still named in Fort William the "Black Hole." Mr. Howell was one of the survivors, and he has written a graphic account of the awful experiences of that terrible night. A mon- ument fifty feet high has been built to commem- orate that dreadful event, and stands in front of the supposed location of the door. The Mohammedans changed the name of the town to Alimagar. In January, 1757, about eight months after its capture, the English re- took Calcutta under Admiral Watson and Lord Clive. The foul crime perpetrated on English- men in the " Black Hole " aroused Clive's wrath, and nerved him to make one supreme effort for English supremacy in India, and this effort re- sulted in the superb victory won in the battle of Plassey. This battle formed an epoch in the stirring history of those heroic days. The Eng- lish found that almost everything of value had been taken away. A large sum of restitution money was received, and was divided among the sufferers. Commerce rapidly revived, and the ruined city was speedily rebuilt. I. ■\\ ■ ... I i .1 i ) 1 «■■, 32H AkOlIM) TIIK VVOKIJ) :!;);) Modern Calctitta really dates from 1757. The citadel called Fori VVilliain was rebuilt by Lord Clive, !)einpf completed in 1773. It is the larj^est fort in India, and is said to be larj;e enonj^h to hold fiftcLii thonsand soldiers. Its cost was not less than ten million dollars. The fort is an irre<»;nlar octagon, live sides lookinj;' landward, and three to the river. It is surronnded by a fosse thirty feet deep and fifty feet broad, and this fosse can speedily be filled with water from the river. At the time the new fort was bnilt, the superb park and driveway known as the Maidan was formed. In 1707 Calcutta was declared a presidency, — up to that time it had been dependent on the older Kno;lish settlement at Madras. In 1852 Calcutta was erected into a municipality, the people payinor assessments for cleansing and otherwise improving the town. It was contem- plated at one time to remove the city of the supreme government from Calcutta. The town was so unwholesome, and it was so remote from the center of the country that another location was desired ; but modern engineering has made the city substantially healthful and altogether beautiful, and railways have brought it into close touch with all parts of India, and telegraphs with (ireat Britain and the whole world. It is now considered to be among the most healthful cities in the East, sanitary reforms having worked won- ders. The improvements of English civilization have thus enabled Calcutta to hold its place as the capital of India. ■k CALCUTTA 329 Tin-; City oi< Talaci-s. — Calcutta, iK'causc of its many fine bnil(liiio;s, hassoiiictiincs been called the " City of Palaces." It certainly is a most intcrestinjj^, and at the same time a very Indian city ; and notwitlistandinj^^ that it is the home of many ICiiropeans, it still holds its distinctive Indian character. As seen from the river its stronj^ array of fine bnildinos makes it very at- tractive ; but the tourist has no sooner entered the dirty streets, some of which still remain, than he becomes aware of the filth of its native l)()pulation. Naturally the Ciovernment House attracts immediate attention. It is a specimen of remarkal)ly fine architecture, and it stands in a garden of six acres. The design is copied from that of Kedlestone Hall, Derbyshire. It is built around an open s(|uare, and is so constructed that it becomes a citadel when necessity arises. It is under a semi-military organization, and always ready to anticipate a popular uprising. Its dining room, throne room, and council room are worthy of careful examination and descrip- tion. Famous pictures adorn the walls of these rooms. In the council room are the pictures of Warren Hastings, ]\Iarquis Wellesley, Lord Clive, and others whose names form an inseparable part of tlie history of Britain in India. The town hall stands west of the Government House, and is a noticeably fine building. The High Courf and the Secretariat are noble build- ings ; the latter stands on the north side of Dalhousie Square. The Indian Alusenm, the Calcutta University, the post ofificc, Dalhousie I, ■J .. 1 < < ' I! .^1 a /' I ; ^ : '^ n i' I ( I I ■(■! ; ■ i i» I SI; 330 AKOrND TIM-: WOKIJ) Institute, and St. Paul's Cathedral arc all biiild- iii<;s worthy of careful cxauiination. The Ko- uiauists have a church in honor of St. Thomas. There is also a Scotch kirk, St. Andrew's, a (ireek church, and an Armenian church; the Hrahnia vSomaj, the reformed theistic sect of the Hindus, has a place of meeting. This sect has very little hold upon the ruling population, but it has earnest followers from amon^ the Hindus of educatit)n and j^^ood social position. It was founded in 1830; but in 1858 Keshub Chunder vSen joined the Soma] and gave it considerable popularity. The Botanical Gardens, on the west side of the river, are worthy of a visit. These gardens in- clude an area of two hundred and .seventy-two acres with a river frontage of a mile. They are marked by excellent taste, and as a whole are worthy of great praise. Here is found an enor- mous banyan tree, said to be one of the largest of its species in the world. It has often been represented in school-books, and is so old that its age is incalculable. Practically this species of trees lives for. ■ er, as it continually multiplies itself. To the right of the entrance is the remark- able avenue of Palmyra palm trees ; and there is also in the immediate vicinity an avenue of mahogany trees. There are here also specimens of the sacred bo tree, and a camphor tree of great size. There is a large conservatory devoted to the cultivation of ferns, and one will travel far before he will see so many varieties of ferns and so superbly trained as are here found. ^:r' w its of IS of ?ns ?at to "ar CALCUTTA 331 All visitors arc intcrLStcd in scciii}; the palace of the kiiii>- of Oiule, who has recently died. He lon^ hacl the reputation of havin<^ '' wheels in his head." The government allowed him half a million dollars, on which sum he was able to live in the enjoyment of all the luxuries which his stran^^e taste demanded. He was kint; of Oude at the time the Ivnglish (govern- ment dethroned him, and he remained a rebel at heart until the time of his death. The Sepoy rebellion had his earnest sympathy. lie was practically a prisoner in his palace at " (harden Reach," as the place was called. Here he in- dulged in a strangle taste for animals, hrwinji; around him great numbers of tigers, a rem rka- ble collection of snakes, and pigeons of every variety and almost without number. At the proper season of the year, every even- ing, the c'h'ii'oi Calcutta turns out for a drive on the IMaidan. Here may be seen equipages as varied and elegant as can be seen at the Pincio, at Rome, the Prado, of Madrid, the Champs Ely- sees, in Paris, Hyde Park, in London, or Central Park, New York. Mr. Ballon, in his " Due West," affirms that the Maidan of this Indian capital in point of gayety, variety, and attractiveness, sur- passes all similar drives in any part of the world. Here ladies in brilliant dresses, nabobs in gold lace, attended by their barefooted runners, Par- sees, Hindus, English, Egyptians, French, and Italians, can be seen in all the most attract- ive characteristics of their various nationalities. After the light of the brief twilight hour has I I ! I I w ; 11. ■'.' Ml; L^ ' 1 Wi i II''. W ' I'M'.*'' 332 AROUND THE WORIvD oone out, the Maidan is illuminated instantly by hundreds of electric lij^hts which are flashed upon the gay scene. While the equipages dash around the long course the air is filled with music and with the odors of OrieJual flowers and slirubs of many varieties. It is indeed a stirring scene and one which equally delights and sur- prises the tourist as he observes the characteris- tics of this far-off Indian capital. The portion of the Maidan lying 1)etween the fort and the main part of the city is known as the Esplanade. There are noticeable mosques, Hindu temples, pagodas, and bazaars. Two of the most famous monuments are those erected to the jNIarquis of Wellesley and Sir David Ochter- lony. There is much poverty and filth in the native sections of Calcutta. The streets there are narrow and unpaved, and the houses, for the most part, are built of niud, or bamboo and mats ; but even in these quarters many improvements have been lately introduced, including wider streets, improved drainage, and brick houses. The portion chiefly inhabited by Europeans is called Chowringee. The houses in this quarter are built chiefly with brick and covered with stucco. The majority of the houses are detached from one another and are suvrounded by spacious verandas. The dwellings of foreign merchants are east of the Maidnn, and many of them are palatial. The British merchants form a large and wealthy class. A considerable number of Amei'icans are found in Calcutta, engaged in commerce with various paits of the East. The 'I I CALCUTTA 333 of in he Eurasians form a serviceable class, beinfessed by the scenes enacted at the "Burning (ihat" Here the ceremony of cre- mating the dea^j goes on both day and night. Corpses are placed upon the piles of cord-wood, raised to the heij^ht of four feet. Then the wood n \ V, i k ) • .1' i^ « Ml' u ' I i i ;ii i»f ' ill " H is- h i |! m 33« AROUND THE WORLD on the bank of the river and the library is still undisturbed. Bishop Hurst has well said, " Each penstroke of Carey, Marsh man, and Ward was a thunderbolt against the pagan wall of Hindu- ism." vSouvenirs of these noble men may here be seen. Portraits in oil of each member of the missionary trio hang upon the walls. The bo- tanical collections which Carey made are still seen. In this library are collections of rare Hindu and Pali manuscripts which the mission- aries made. In the old Danish church are tablets in masonry of the great missionaries. It is a small building, seating only about one hun- dred people, but it is a spot dear to every lover of God and man. Lord Wellington was one of the contributors to the erection of the building. The missionaries are buried in another part of the town, but their tablets are in the little church. I copied Carey's epitaph, written by himself : William Carey, Born 17th of August, 1761, Died 9th of June, 1834. A wretched, poor, and helpless worm, On Thy kind hands I fall. One's heart throbs with emotions of apprecia- tion, gratitude, and enthusiasm as he reads these words. The world will never know how much it owes to this noble man. For thirty years he occupied the professor's chair in Fort William College, but all his earnings were employed in advancing the cause of missions in India. The CALCUTTA 339 tomb of Carey is conspicuous for its massive luonuinent as well as for its tender and heroic memories. Of the three great men, Marshman was the last to fall at his post; but before Carey closed his heroic career he had the joy of know- ingr t'.at the gospel was preached in forty lan- guages or dialects of India. ..1 f, M XXVIII BENARES, THE HOLY CITY (•iiiO'S m I * I'^i I) Inii , IT was a matter of sincere regret to the writer tliat he could not visit Burma and the great Baptist mission among the Tehigus in southern India. He cherislies the hope that before many years shall pass he will visit both those parts of the country. In making his way back to Bom- bay, some of the towns now to be named were visited, while some others were visited on the journey from Bombay to Calcutta. The geo- graphical order is not closely followed in the account, but a glance at any good map of India will enable the reader easily to follow the order in which the towns are given. Poverty Amid Plenty. — The ride from Cal- cutta to Benares is deeply interesting ; it is also peculiarly saddening. The people living on the route are wretchedly poor, judged by all the standards recognized among Europeans ; but it is frankly admitted that poverty in India is to be judged by different standards from those em- ployed in Great Britain and the United States. Still, whatever the standard may be, the extreme poverty of the people must be recognized. The population is immensely large at every point. 340 ci' BENARKvS, THE 1IOI.Y CITY 341 It rano^cs from two Innulred to six hundred peo- ple to the square uiile. All the people are poorly clad, if they can be spoken of as clad at all. In the majority of instances the only clothing is a cotton cloth around the loins. Really, one won- ders how it is possible for the people to exist. We know that there have been great famines in India, but since the construction of railways and canals, the famines of earlier days are not likely often to occur nor to be of so great severity as in the earlier days. The famines of recent times are not because of, but in spite of, liritish rule and a comparatively Christian civilization. It is said that the average annual income of each inhabitant in India is only seven dollars and fifty cents. Five cents a day is considered rea- sonably good wages for the ordinary working man. There are historical and economical reasons for the extreme poverty of the millions in India. Previous to the occupation of the country by Great Britain the history of the country was one long warfare, and but for the authority of Britain the country to-day would be in unceasing tribal strife. The country would doubtless be in a state of continual anarchy. In the early days men of power amassed great wealth at the ex- pense of the common people. Nana Sahib's wealth is spoken of as measured by cartloads. Great stores of treasure have been found beneath the ground in the palace at Gwalior. The Mahrattas were the highway robbers of later Indian history, and their treasure was almost i « ' ' Ml ■i 'i. i I 1,1' t it c) J a-r, 342 AROUND TIIK WORI.D beyond belief. War and robbery have impov- erished tlie kmd. (ireat wealtli also in the palmy days of heathenism was bestowed on the temples. Ecclesiastical and military chiefs g^rew rich, while the rank and file of the people starved. Great tombs, like the glorious Taj Mahal, were built, and hundreds and thousands of persons died of starvation in order to erect these tombs. But a better day is coming for India. Much of her soil is still uncultivated, and it is very rich. The government is tising all its influence to induce the people to adopt better means of cultivating the soil. It is found very hard to induce them to lay aside the methods of their fathers, however superior the new methods are to the old. The enormous interest charged for money help to keep the people poor. Many poor men, in marrying their daughters, will mortgage their lives for their entire future, and the rates of interest are so great that many debt- ors never expect to do more than pay the inter- est. But the representatives of Great Britain are striving in many ways to bring in a better day for this vast empire. The people whom we saw on this journey live for the most part in primitive mud cabins thatched with straw. Outside of certain districts in Ireland it would be difficult to find any other place where such poverty and squalor can be found. The country through which we were passing, however, is famous as an agricultural region. One would expect to find thrifty farm houses and prosperous villages, as one sees rice, ',' i ■( !i r , I IJKNARKS, TJIK HOIA' CITY 343 wheat, su^ai-canc, and vast poppy ftelds as he journeys tlironj^h tliis district. I^Vuit trees of many kinds abound. Anionj^ thcni are lofty tamarinds, ahnonds, mangoes, oranges, and the j^^raci ful pahn. liirds of paradise were seen, with their beautilul feathers glistening in the sun, and tall flamingoes, in their bridal plumage, with scarlet epaulets on each wing ; parrots and doves were seen, and the clear notes of the Indian thrush fell sweetly on the ear. Now and again temples, centuries old and in utter ruin, came into view. During this ride we found but little evidence of the British possession except the telegraph wires and the railway lines, but evidences of native populations and of heathen religions are numerous. The third-class cars were packed with pilgrims on their way to the sacred city of Benares. They were herded like cattle in these cars. The charge is only about one cent per mile, and no other class of passengers pays so well. For a long time the pilgrims would not ride in the cars, for the\' regarded the engine as some sort of fire-devil, which the engineer bribed by frequent drinks of water to draw the train. But now they ride, although they still, in many- cases, retain their superstition regarding the engine. Benares. — Finally, after passing Mogul Serai, near the junction of the two sacred rivers, the Ganges and the Jumna, the ancient city of Be- nares is reached, on the left side of the Ganges. u i' ; I ;H t ' L ' J, .•■ . '■■- ' 1 t 1 » ■ 1 ) f y' ', but great results may soon be ex- pected. There are now only about five hundred professed Christians in the Baptist, IVIethodist, and Church of England churches ; but there must be many thousands who are almost ready to declare their Christian faith. Never will the writer forget the horrid sights^ sounds, and odors of this credulous, zealous, fa- natical, and idolatrous city. The sights of the hideous fakirs, in their revolting deformity and diseased condition, with their distorted limbs, their matted hair, and their wretched faces, haunted him for weeks. He longed to be able to tell them of a purer faith and a better hope. One has only to pass from the heathen into the Christian quarter of the city to have an unan- swerable argument in favor of Christianity. It is said that the crime of infanticide is very com- mon in Benares. Here jackals are the night scavengers, and their hideous wail often jars upon the ear in the night season. They are a recognized institution, and no doubt the city would be even more unhealthful than it is were it not for the voracious appetites of these crea- tures, living on decaj'ed food, offal, and every form of refuse. The people are slaves to ig- norance, to idolatry, and to every form of im- purity. God help Christian Britain and Amer- ica to help idolatrous Benares ! •, ' I BENAREvS, THE HOLY CITY 353 Comforts ok Travel. — It is simple truth to say that travelinj^ in India is l)y no means uncom- fortable. The railway trains j^o with commenda- ble rapidity, and their accommodations are suffi- ciently good for any reasonable tourist. The coaches are not sleeping coaches, as we under- stand the term in America. The seats are ar- ranged lengthwise with the cars. The company does not promise an entire seat to each passen- ger, and sometimes it is not possible to fur- nish each passenger with one ; but the aim is so to do. A first-class coach will then be able to accommodate four passengers, each being able to stretch himself out full length, there being two seats below and two that can be let down from the top of the coach. The seats in the first-class coaches are upholstered with leather, those in the second-class with canvas. The second-class coaches have two seats in the center of the car. This fact is the chief drawback to these cars. In other respects they are almost as desirable as those of the first-class. All of them are provided with water and all necessary con- veniences, and some of them are furnished with bathing facilities. The prices for all classes are very low, much lower than in America. The companies experience no small difficulty in striving to adjust their compartments to the caste prejudices of many of their patrons. It is believed that the railways will do much to break up the caste system ; efforts are now making on the part of Brajimaus and some others to com- pel the railway companies to furnish compart- X '\4 1 1 fl u. > a k i } !■: :M "/ \': r ■ 354 AROl'NI) TlIIv VVOKI.n iiKMits accordiiii^ to the caste prcjtuHces of tlic ])coplc, bill il is not likely thai this (Iciiiaiid will be «;^ratilic(l. The Mohaiiiinedan women also become ex- tremely troublesome when the railway trains arc crowded. ( )ften one who has a second-class ticket must be oi\-cn a first-class compartment, as she will not ride in any compartment where there are men. The result is that when the number of passeno;crs is <(reat the difiiculty of Iirope.ly adjustin^^ all these prejudices is a most perjiJexino;- matter. Tlie hotels in India arc by no means so poor us has often been stated ; in the lar<;e cities some of the hotels are reasonably ^ood. This remark will apply without qualification to Bond^ay, and it is believed that soon Calcutta will have j^ood hotels. Travelers have lono- been insistent in the demand for first-class hotels in that ^reat city. The (ircat Kastern has been severely criticised by all travelers for well-nioh a genera- tion, but it has seemed to be indifferent to the severest criticisms which have been made against its management. Steps were taken a few years ago to improve this badly managed hotel. It was urged upon business men in Calcutta that a good hotel is a prime necessity to any city, for tourists visiting Calcutta have often greatly ab- breviated their stay in that city simply for the want of a first-class hotel. A new house has been recently opened, but it is doubtful whether it will supply the need so long felt. The Wat- son House, or the Ivsplanade, mh it is more prop- BKNARi:S, TII1«: IIOI.Y CITY 355 at a for ab- tlie lias her |\^at- rop- crly called, in Hoiiibay, is really an attractive hotel. Prices in hotels also arc low thronj^hont India as compared with prices in America. Hotels in Bombay of a corresponding^ ^rade to hotels in America are not more than one-half to three- quarters the ])rice. The service is continuous and willino;, if not always intellij^ent. The " hall boy " crouches at the door of your room and is ready to relieve you of the necessity of puttinji;^ your key into the keyhole. Most An- olo-Indian families travel with a retinue of ser- vants, and an Anglo-Indian gentleman is almost always accompanied by at least one servant. This servant makes his bed in the railway coach, having a trunk full of bedding for that purpose. He waits on his master in the hotel, and supplements in many ways the service ren- dered by the regular hotel waiters. Most of the house-servants are barefooted, and they slip about quietly and quickly on the tiled floors. Their dress is, for the most part, white, with here and there a dash of color. The servants are clean and their dress is quite becoming. English of some sort is spoken at all the hotels in cities, and even at hotels in villages on beaten routes of travel. It is spoken also by the con- (hictors of the railway trains, who usually are Eurasians. This is a large and important class in India and in most Oriental countries. Many perplexing questions arise regarding the status of the Eurasian people. Many phases of the general subject reflect no credit upon Europeans ; i > <\ 'mi n I :i < W' ! i>h U ll^ 'I 1 'i 356 AROUND THE WORLD but tlic Eurasians are a most useful class as in- terpreters in business houses, in government offices, and in the railway and other forms of public service. The station masters are <^^enerally Europeans. At A^ra the station master was a gentleman who had lived for some years in America, having had a home in New York, Chicago, and St. Paul. He was quite familiar with American affairs, and seemed greatly interested in meeting a tourist who could answer his questions and give other information regarding the American Republic. The punka^ or fan, is an important feature of comfort in the Orient. It is found in the dining saloons of all the great steamers, in the dining rooms of all the leading hotels as well as in the bedrooms, and in the waiting rooms of rail- way stations. It is worked by hand, often one or two men or boys being employed to work it. It is found in banks and in business offices of every kind. So soon as the meal begins the fan moves, and it continues until the tables are deserted. It is really an institution of the Orient. For about six cents one can hire a man who will fan him all night. It is remarkable that a similar inven- tion has not been more generally used in our own country during the heated term. Plans have been devised for running these fans by machinery, but it is foun-i extremely difficult to give them by machinery the peculiar jerk which they need and which the hand readily supplies. This writer violated all the traditions regard- * i- :l or HHiNAKl'S, Till-: IIOI.V CITV 357 injT the proper season of the year for visitinj; Oriental countries, and he is prepared to say that any country may be visited at any season with comparative safety, simply by the exercise of a reasonable amount o common sense. Some would say that the exercise of common sense would prevent a man from jj^oin^ Id ihese coun- tries in mid-bummer, Int with some tourists the choice is between goii j^ at that season or not j4oin^ at any season. It was fairl\ cool in India during Au,i;ust and a part of September, and he would be a rash man who would afRrm that it is always cool in New York, Chica<2:o, and other American cities during the same season. After an experience of eioht consecutive ni<^hts spent on railway trains in India, and parti >• at stations while waitin^^ for tra'us, it may be affirmed that travclino;- in Lidia is but little more difficult than traveling in America. When one can buy rupees for about one-half their nominal value, traveling is remarkably cheap; but the depreciation in Indian silver is very trying for Anglo-Indians who receive their salaries in this depreciated currency. Their ex- perience is doubtless wdiat ours would be in America if silver instead of gold became the standard. Any man who has reasonable powers of adaptation, and who will preserve a good tam- per, will find himself able to travel without in- convenience and with great pleasure and profit in India, and in all the countries of the Orient in which the progress characteristic of the clos- ing years of the century has secured a foothold. .*." A it .:H 1^1 inS» ^- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) & // /. I Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m \ iV :\ \ % s i moisture disappears from the tree and it has no more leaves, it is secretly removed, and another stump is put in its place. The Mela, the religious fair of which mention has been made, is of jrreai; antiquity. It occurs every year about the month of January ; perhaps Allahabad owes its orioin to the sacrcdness of the junction of the two rivers, and to th2 large number of people drawn there annually. In Allahabad one of the most important newspapers in India is published, "The Pioneer." In this city the tourist conies into contact with reminders of the great mutiny of 1857-58. The arsenal and fort; at this place were garrisoned by a single Sepoy regiment. Sir James Outrani was warned that danger was near, but no effect- ive steps were taken to secure safety. The story of the outbreak at Allahabad is one of the sad- dest in the awful misfortunes in the mutiny of 1857. Benares did not suffer materially during that mutiny, but Cawnpore, Lucknow, and Dellu were deluged with blood. It was an awfiJ crisis in the history of British dominion in India when this mutiny broke out in Allahabad. Fortu- nately, tlie Sikhs in the fort did not fraternize with the Sepoys. The Sikhs under Brasyer were drawn up at the main gate, together with some English volunteers. For a time confusion reigned supreme, but the Sikhs were ready to do superb service. They had themselves been conquered by British soldiers fighting for Brit- ain ; would they now join the Sepoys and the Oudh cavalry ? This was the question asked by ,.| ii •4,} r >-' S H'l ' il •* ^ <■ :.,!/ 362 AROUND TIIK WOKIJ) .1 ' I / anxious hearts. Tlie Sikhs loved their oiTicer ; lie gave them his coinmaiid, and these stalwart Sikhs immediately obeyed. The Sepoys were commanded to give np their guns ; for a moment they wavered. But the Sikhs leveled their muskets. The Sepoys were overawed. They hesitated, lost their opportunity, and surrendered their guns. They were expelled from the fort and Allahabad was saved- Anarchy, however, reigned in the city. The jail was broken open and the prisoners were re- leased, every one of whom engaged in murdering the Christians. The treasury was also sacked and many Sepoys carried off thousands of rupees as their part of the booty. Soon General Neill arrived at the fort, opened fire on the neighbor- ing villages, and finally produced such alarm that many of the sympathizers fled to Cawnpore. The triumph of English arms, largely through the loyalty of the Sikhs ,it Allahabad, is one of the bright chapters in the terrible history of the Sepoy mutiny. JURBULPORK. — The weather was intensely hot as the hours passed while I waited for another train at Jubbulpore, which is about two hundred miles southwest of Allahabad. Jubbulpore is an important civil and military station, and the meeting place of two of the great Indian rail- w^ays, and consequently one of the most impor- tant railway stations in India. The great objects of interest here are the marble rocks, remarkable geological formations, which are about eleven (lANOKS CITIKS 3^'i hot )thcr idred sail the rail- ipor- [jects :able leven miles from the heart of the town. The town is nearly one thousand five hundred feet above the sea ; in its vicinity are many lakes and tanks which in the rainy season are so swollen as to make the place inaccessible and j^^rcatly to strenpi'then its stratej^ica! ])osition. A small I^nv^- lish force here defeated, Decembe'- 19, 1817, no fewer than five thousand jNIahratta forces of the rajah of Nagpore. This place was once famous as the home of the Thugs. This word remains in our lanojuage although the Thugs themselves have been sup- pressed in India. They were a fraternity whose employment was to murder by strangulation. Their occupation was hereditary, and they made their living in this way. It was, indeed, a sort of religion. Captain Sleeman was chiefly suc- cessful in hunting down these criminals. Jub- bulpore was the chief center of their operations, and it was in this town that the families of the Thugs were confined after their capture. An en- closed village was formed, and within its walls these captives were kept as prisoners, and a "school of industry" was established on their behalf in 1835. At the first no fewer than two thousand five hundred of these people were con- fined in this village. Now, however, very few remain. Dacoity, or gang robbery, was another form of crime which required all the force of the go\'- ernment to suppress. This also is now largely disappearing. The crime of infanticide has greatly decreased, but suspicious statistical facts 3^4 AROUND THK WOKI.n show that it still continues to a considerable dej^ree. In some towns the proportion of boys is very much j^reatcr than that of girls, and there is no reason to suppose that the proportion of boys in India should differ from that in other countries. [n !■ Cawnpore Memorials. — Cawnpore, spelt also '' Khanpur," is situated on the ri<,dit bank of the Ganges, at the junction of four railways, and about one hundred and forty miles from Alla- habad, over six hundred from Calcutta, ov'er nii.*^ hundred from Bombay, and two hundred and seventy miles from Delhi. In 1801 it became British property. The Ganges Canal empties into the Ganges River near Cawnpore. It re- ceives its water at Hurdwclr, four hundred miles above. This work has been of great service o the entire district. It has a water-course of eight hundred miles, and with its bridges and docks cost the sum of ten million dollars. Since 1888 Cawnpore has been in direct communica- tion with Bombay, through the opening of the railway to Jhansi. There are here convenient waiting rooms, and fairly good carriages can be secured at a very low price. The old city is about two miles northwest of the present city. This is the most important commercial center in the northwestern province. The city has a population, including tlie cantonment, of about one hundred and eight^'-eight thousand. The name means, city of Kanh, or Krishna, Kanh husband." Cawnpore has large can- meaning u lUI GANt;i;S CITIKS 365 toiinicnts and is an important inilitaiy statit)ii. It is really a considerable eniporiuni for harness, shoes, and various kinds of kallier work. Some of its citizens whom I met called attention to its extensive manufactures, its cotton spinninj^, and weavinj;^, and its fabrics turned out by the h'lj^in and the Muir, and spoke of it as the Birminj^- ham of India. It was interestin^r to see the smoke pourin<^ forth from its chimneys, ^ivinreat oism. it two were lie in- it was Those down from le the many hokra osnre. .venty- ent a e who Lord their bad." as his Satanic trick. On the twenty-sixth there was an armistice and a safe condnct to the river side and a snpply of boats was ])roniiscd. On the twenty-seventli tlie luiropeans were rechiced to half tlieir ori«4i!ial nnmbcr, and on this promise of a safe passaj^e to AUaliabad they surrttidtrcd. How that promise was kept we sliall sadly see. (ieneral Wheeler thonp^ht this a j^ood ofTer ; bnt he was qnite too trnstfnl. At nine o'clock in the mornnij^ the whole company was em])arked at the Sati Chaura (ihat in twenty-one boats ; then a bn«^le was sonnded, the native boatmen left tlie boats and immediately a mnrderons fnc was opened on the men, women, and children. Soon parts of the boats were bnrnino^. Many of the wretched captives leaped into the water, and son^ht to reach the land, bnt were shot in the stream or captnred .so soon as they reached the shore. For thirty-six honrs one boat floated down the stream. Fonr ont of eleven soldiers who swam from the boat, reached the shore and they alone were left to tell the awfnl story. The boat which had floated down the stream was finally overtaken. The men were bhot, and the women and children sent to join those whom Nana had for reasons of his own rescned at the Massacre Ghat. Thev were then all taken lo Nana Sahib's headquarters, where, confined in two small rooms for two weeks, they suffered fearful indignities. British Retribution. — Terrible retribution was near at hand. General Havelock was march- V m 370 AROUND THE WORLD H ¥ i' t ,; ing from Allahabad and fighting as he marched. A number of encounters between Havelock and Nana took place. Finally on the sixteenth of July, Nana at the liead of five thousand men en- gaged in fierce battle, but was finally defeated. Brave Havelock learned as lie marched to Cawn- pore the story of the terrible massacre. Nana, knowing of General Havelock's advance, caused the women and children to be massacred the day before Havelock's troops entered Cawnpore, and their bodies to be thrown into the well. To the honor of the Sepoys be it said that they refused to do such revolting work as slaughtering the captives, but Mohammedan butchers did it. With knives and swords they killed the British pris- oners from five in the morning until half-past ten. Three of even these hardened demons were overcome by fatigue, heat, stench, and the sight of so much blood. It was a sight to make angels weep. Britain has paid a fearful price for her dominion in India, and this was the crisis of her power and triumph. On the eighteenth of July Havelock entered the city, while Nana re- treated to Bitliur. The citv was silent as the grave when Havelock reached it, and for four days his men toiled on burying the dead. In November of the same year Cawnpore was again taken by the enemy ; but soon the Sepoys were routed with great slaughter, and so much of Cawnpore as had not been committed to the flames was in the possession of the British. General Wheeler has been criticised for his ac- ceptance of Nana's promise of safety to those who '!i 'tf GANGES CITIES 2>7^ Ills ac- wlio surrendered. It is easy for us now to criticise ; but General Wlieeler's task was an extremely difficult one. He had under his charge compara- tively few men, as the large majority of Euro- peans were women and cliildren. He had no stores adequate to their requirements and there was but little ammunition. There was also lack of medical necessaries, and water could be had only in small quantities and that at terrible risks. His position really was untenable. A few general remarks will cover many points connected witli the mutiny at Delhi and Luck- now, as well as at Cawnpore. The real name of Nana Sahib was Sirik Dandliu Panth. He was the adopted son of Eaji Rao, the last pesliwa, or king of the Mahrattas. He was educated as a Hindu nobleman, and was a good English scholar. He had been trained to regard himself as a prince. He was greatly incensed against Lord Dalhousie because he had destroyed the peshwaship, after the death of the peshwa in 1 85 1, and by this action had deprived Nana of his pension and of his royal salute. Nana was determined to revenge himself on his lordship. The day chosen was the one hundredth anniver- sary of the battle of Plassey. Nana represented the old regal power of the j\Iahrattas ; that power was now passing away, and the British were get- ting a firm grip on the entire country. The time seemed ripe for Nana's revenge. General Wheeler, as we have seen, was practically help- less. He was an old man, \\h provisions were scanty, and the heat was intense. In the mes- Zl^ AROUND THE WORLD I'n'i f, .:( I? ir sage to which reference has been made, a mes- sage written in Nana's own hand, safety was promised only to those who were not connected with acts of Lord Dalhonsie. Bishop Hnrst calls attention to the effective means adopted by General Neill for impressing the native mind with the greatness of England and the certainty of punishment to those who opposed English rule. He took the prisoners captured from Nana into the prison where the terrible massacre had taken place. He marked off the place into squares and he then made his captured Sepoys wash up the blood. Touching Christian blood was the breaking of all Hindu caste, and to the Hindu mind it affirmed that every Hindu who had been thus defiled would receive eternal punishment as the result of this defilement. General Neill also tied many Sepoys to the muzzle of cannons and shot them into a thousand fragments. IVIany persons do not un- derstand the reasons for this form of punishment. It was not, as is often supposed, because of any spirit of cruelty on his part. The design was to produce the most terrible impression on the native mind, and nothing else that he could have done would have created such consterna- tion. These natives believed that the spirit of one whose body did not receive proper burial but was mutilated in death would forover suffer because of this mutilation. We can thus see why General Neill adopted this apparently, but not really, cruel method of execution. Unfortunately, Nana escaped. In i860 his GANGKS CITIES 373 w ho his death was announced, but two years later new acts of treachery indicated that he was still alive. Several persons have been arrested on the sus- picion of being Nana Sahib, but they were re- leased as soon as the mistake was discovered. What became of Nana is not known. Perhaps he died by the hand of some faithful follower, and perhaps, as some traditions say, he wandered into the jungle after the English captured Delhi and died by his own hand. Part of his army was captured during the following year, and many of his treasures were found concealed in wells at Bithur. The water was drawn from one well, the bricks were taken out, and seven- teen cartloads of gold and silver treasures were secured and taken under special guard to Cawn- pore, to Calcutta, and then to England. It Is said that this slow march o^ captured treasure inspired the natives with a feeling of inexpress- ible awe and a wonderful conception of the power of England. As the result of this mutiny, England showed her power in battle and became the possessor of the vast treasures of the leader of the mutiny. This treasure had been won by the Mahratta chiefs long years before, and when their power declined, the last scion of the ancient house kept the treasure with profound secrecy. One purpose, no doubt, was to use it some time as a bribe for the lost power of the Mahratta princes, but it went to England. Nowhere on Indian soil would it be permitted to remain. Never again would it add splendor to a native court. The guns taken at the siege of Delhi i I I m 374 AROUND THK WORLD were lolled all the way to Calcutta, stopping at every town to give the people some idea of Brit- ish power to crush a mutiny and to destroy its leaders. I went from place to place of interest in Cawnpore, but nothing impressed me as did the octagonal Gothic structure over the terrible well. The calmness of this marble figure, with a palm in each hand, is still before my mind. When all the sad sights and sounds of Cawnpore pass away from my mind, that angel, telling of peace in sorrow, victory in defeat, and life in death, will still be present as the symbol of resurrection and immortality. " ; i [ XXX LUCKNOW IT was a beautiful evening in September when I reached Lucknow. A carriage drawn by two horses and supplied with two men, one as a driver and one as a guide, was readily se- cured. For this remarkable outfit the price agreed upon was about twenty cents an hour. It required some courage to pay this bill without adding somewhat to its required amount. The guide had been a servant in an English family and spoke English with fluency, and he also seemed familiar with the history of Eucknow. It is a thousand pities that more Americans who travel so frequently in Europe do not ex- tend their journey into India. It is a marvelous country It is a land of the remote past, and it will be a land of wonderful interest in the dis- tant future. In the writer's boyhcod he was accustomed to read to his parents the newspapers giving accounts of the terrible mutiny. Rela- tives of his father and mother from the High- lands of Scotland were among the brave soldiers under Sir Colin Campbell. It was therefore with the deepest interest that visits were made to Cawnpore and Lucknow, the latter place being the very heart of the mutiny. 375 1 9 11 * ■ t,'. i : '■| "}' '' I I ?>7^ AROUND THE WORLD The City ok the Mutiny. — Lucknow is about fifty miles distant from Cawnpore. The journey between the two cities abounds in his- toric associations with the mutiny, and with British rule in India as a whole. Lucknov/ covers thirty-six square miles and has a popula- tion of about two hundred and eighty-five thou- sand, at least three-quarters of whom are Hindus. Lucknow is the fourth city in size in the Indian Empire, Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay being the only larger cities. It is situated chiefly on the right or southwest bank of the river Guniti, and is the capital of the province and former kingdom of Oudh. The river Gumti is here navigable at all seasons, upward for many miles and downward all the way to the Ganges. The river is crossed by three bridges. The city seen in the distance is imposing to an unusual degree. It conveys the impression of great splendor because of its numerous turrets and pinnacles and its many superb buildings ; but a closer examination of its filthy and narrow streets and its mud or bamboo houses quite re- verses the early impression. The streets are often many feet below the level of the shops on each side. The English quarter, however, con- tains beautiful public buildings, and is adorned with fine gardens. One is profoundly impressed by the difference between Christianity and hea- thenism by comparing the streets and buildings occupied by one or the other faith as one enters these Oriental cities. Going from the heathen to the Christian quarter in Benares, for ex- •■ -I? Ill "^he LUCKNOW Zll ample, is almost the contrast between hades and heaven. Lucknow does not contain many bnildincrs which seeni to be very old, and yet nianv Indian lecrends and histories claim that it is older than any of the other great cities of India. Some authorities affirm that it was founded by Laksh- mana brother of Rama. It has important native schools in which an elementary education can be secured and in which Mohammedan theolocry IS taught. ^^ Lucknow abounds in memories of the fricrluful scenes connected with the mutiny of i8?7-^8 and especially of the privations 'endured and the courage manifested by the beleaguered men and women within the walls of the Resi- dency. Here a few noble souls heroically held out against hordes of rebels until they were relieved by the brave men and true under Sir Colin Campbell. No man with British blood or any other good blood, in his veins can fail to be moved by the memory of the noble deeds performed in Lucknow by Uwrence, Havelock, Outram, Campbell, and the brave men whoin they commanded. Lucknow surpassed all other places in its determined resistance to the onsets of the insurgents. Naturally we drive first to the Residency after having examined a model of it made by Chan- lain Moore. The Residency, with its varied dependencies, is more than two thousand feet long and more than one thousand feet broad from east to west. The buildings are in ruins, ! ,1 'I ' \ I' 1, .*»( ft ii 378 AROUND THK WORLD and remain snbstantially as they were when evacuated at "the relief." The shattered walls bear eloquent testimony to the fearful experiences of those terrible days. The visitor's attention is immediately fixed upon the obelisk, erected by Lord Northbrook, with its inscription in memory of the native officers and Sepoys who died here while in the performance of their duty as soldiers of Britain. A building of special interest is the Dilkusha, meaning " heart's delight," a palace built by Saadat Ali Khan as a country seat. Near it is a park for which he cleared large tracts of jun- gle, and having laid out the ground with care and skill, he stocked it well with deer and other game. This was one of the country seats of the kings of Oudh. Here women and children, as well as the wounded men who were rescued from the Residency, found a tempoiary shelter. It was touching to remember that our brave Baptist brother. General Havelock, found shelter here. He died November 24, 1857, ^^ dysentery and its consequent weakness. Another building of great interest is the Mar- tiniere College, a college intended especially for half-caste children. This building was endowed by Major General Claude Martin, a French ad- venturer, and a native of Lyons, France. He was the son of a cooper, and he served under Lally in the regiment of Lorraine. He and some of his comrades were taken by Lord Clive, and he then entered the British service. He went to India as a private soldier, and finally he rose < I' I I I lA'CKNOW 379 as to g;rcat power and influence under tlie native ji^overnment. Cicncral Martin died in 1800, and was buried in a vault under the college building. There is an English church, an observatory, a hospital, a dispensary, a Methodist, a Catholic, and still other churches, some of which are worthy a visit. Sikandara Bagh, "Alexander Garden," was formerly a garden, as the word " ^r/^// " implies. It is now a large walled en- closuic. For a time during the mutiny it was a stronghold for the rebels ; but here a great many Sepoys were killed within two hours by the Ninety-third Highlanders, with some detach- ments of the Fourth Punjab Rifles and the Fifty- third F'oot, under Sir Colin Campbell. Every inch of soil within that enclosure must have been thoroughly saturated with blood. The churchyard near the Residency is still kept in order and the monuments and tablets tell the story of the death of many a gallant soldier who died in the mutiny. The jMachchi Bhawan — Fish Buildings — the name being given from the heraldic symbol of Oudh, are buildings well worthy of a visit. The Great Imambara was the place for caste meetings and feasts. It is a building which would attract the attention of any visitor from any land, and it has a hall which is said to be the largest in India. The ceiling of this octagonal room is richly decorated, and a plain slab marks the place where Asafu Daulah is buried. Although the sun was scorching hot at the time, a climb to the terraced roof of this superb building richly 38o AROUND THK WORLD •/ paid, because of the magnificent view of the city and country whicii it afforded. This great build- ing was erected in 1784, the year of a terrible famine, in order to afford relief to the men who wrought in its erection. The Hoseinabad, or Palace of Lights, is also an attractive building, and contains some rare and costly chandeliers. The Cluittar Munzil,or Umbrella House, is a fantastic building, deriv- ing its name from the shape of the ornament by which it is surmounted. The best rooms in this building are now used for clubs and theatricals. The Alam Bagli is an enclosure of great interest because of its relation to the operations of Have- lock, Outram, and Sir Colin Campbell in the relief of Lucknow. Sir Henry Havelock is buried in this garden. The museum, the iron bridge, the observatory, and the Moti Mahal, meaning Pearl Palace, and other places, are worthy of the tourist's attention. A drive through the bazaars gives an opportunity to examine examples of native manufacture, and shows how the plastic clay figures are so skillfully modeled in color. In Lucknow I met Scotch and English sol- diers who were full of stirring memories of the mutiny. One old man, now a pensioner, had served under Sir Henry Havelock. He could not say too much of the bravery and Christian character of that humble Christian and heroic soldier. Seldom have I been more moved than I was as I listened to these stirring recitals. The cemetery is certainly one of the most . I a; r* ; LUCKNOW 381 interesting spots in Lncknow ; no fewer than two thonsand men and women lie there asktp It is beantifnlly laid out with flowers and walks! It may be permitted to (jnote here- the- t-pilaph of Sir Henry Uiwrence, dietated by himself: t'ere lies Hi:nky Lawkknck, Wlio tried to do his duty. May the Lord have mercy on his soul! Born 28th of June, 1J06. Died 4th of July, 1857. Sir Hknry PIavki.ock.— Hut no inscription interested ine so much as that of Sir Henry Havelock, written by his wife. His tomb is an obelisk, thirty feet hi^di, in the Alam Hacrh. u was thron.irli his bravery that it ]>ecame possible to reach I.ncknow, and at Alam P,a«^]i his fame was assured, so it was fittincr that there he should find his tomb. His death occurred a few days after the relief of those who endured sorrow and starvation for four months in the Residencv. Sir Henry Havelock was born at Bishop Wear- mouth, county of Durham, Kno-land, April 5, 1795. He was one of a familv of seven brotlicrs and sisters. His mother was a most o(,(i]y woman. She was accustomed to assemble the children for the reading: oi the Scriptures and tlie ofTenn.or of prayers. He entered the Enolish army about a month after the battle of Watedoo. While_ sailino- to India, in 1823, ^le became a Christian by a livincr pt-sonal experience that his sins were forgiven and that he was accepted !-'_ r^i' 38- AUOINI) TlIK WORLD r(/"'i i.'i /( ' » ''1 ' ^' •j ^1 1 v^ !' If' ■1 II tliroiij^^h Jesus Christ, and liis whole soul flowed with heavenly love. He often expounded the Scriptures to the soldiers about him. Mis in- fluence was as blessed as it was extensive in the army. He was married February 9, 1829, to Hannah, the third dauj^hter of Doctor Marsh- man, the companion of the immortal Carey. At vSerampore he was baptized, April 4, 1830, by the Rev. John Mack, and he was ever afterward an earnest Christian and a consistent Baptist. His whole career in Hurma, in Afj^hanistan, in the Sikh war, and afterward in the Sepoy Mutiny, is worthy of unqualified admiration. On his way to Lucknow he fought nearly fifty thou- sand Sepoys with two thousand five hundred men. In his last moments he said to Sir James Outran! : " For more than forty vears I have so ruled my life that when death came I might face it without fear. I am not in the least afraid ; to die is gain. I die happy and contented." To his eldest son, who waited upon him with great tenderness, he said, " Come, my son, and see how a Christian can die." The inscription on his tomb is as follows : Here rest the mortal remains of Henky Havelock, Major General in the British Army, Knight Commander of the Bath, Who died at Dilkusha, Laknau, of dysentery, Produced by the hardships of a campaign. In which he achieved immortal fame, On the 24th of November, 1857. He was born on the 5 th of April, 1795, At Bishop Wearmouth, County Durham, England ; I,UCKNO\V 383 to Kntcrcd the army in 1815 ; C.iinc to liuliii in 1H23, And served tlicrc, with little interruption, Until his death. His ashes in a peaceful urn shall rest, His name a great example stands, to show How strangely liiglj endeavors may be blessed When piety and valour jointly go. This monument is erected by His mourning widow and family. _ General Havelock was the subject of suspi- cioii, and even of positive dislike, on the part of many officers of the army. His decided Christian lite did not sccnre for hini tlie affection of men in military life. It is believed that he was discriini- nated a 384 AROUND THE WORLD the honor which was tardily bestowed upon him when he virtually became the hero of the terri- ble conflict. Few men in the group of Christian soldiers in the history of the world more per- fectly combined religious fervor and martial bravery than did Sir Henry Havelock. He is the real hero of the Sepoy IMutiny. The Sikandara Bagh. — I have already re- ferred to the Sikandara Bagh. This /wi,'//, or garden, which once belonged to an Indian princess, is a square about one hundred and twenty yards in extent, and is surrounded by a high wall. As Campbell, Havelock, and Outran! w^ere drawing together, the Sepoys saw clearly that they must seek shelter. Into this garden they rushed, and endeavored to close the gate when all of them had entered ; but four soldiers, two of them Scotchmen and two of them natives, prevented the closing of- the gate at the risk of their lives. Two of them were shot and the other two crushed as they pre- vented the gate from closing. It is said that a Sikh corporal put his hand through the gate to control the bolt and had his hand cut off with a sword ; and it is also said that with the other hand he secured and retained his hold of the bolt. Then the pursuing columns of sol- diers arrived. The Sepoys saw that they were in a pen. They could not climb the wall, and there wns no entrance save by the gate, and the British soldiers were pouring through that gate. Many of the soldiers thus approaching had seen I. LUC KNOW 385 their kinsmen, and some of them tlicir wives and children, slanghtered by these mnrderous tsepoys Uiey were wild with racre ; they were hot for blood. The Sepoys were absolntely help- less and every one of the one thousand six hun- dred and forty-three met his fate at the cold steel of the wrathful British soldiers. That once smilino- crarden was thus drenched in blood It was a terrible slaughter, but who can blame these soldiers? There has been no attempt to beautify the place since. It lies there as an ut- terly nccrlected place, and amid its tan^rlcd growths are mounds showing where the dead Sepoys were thrown into great pits which were their common grave. It will be manv genera- tions, if ever, before the Sikandara Bagli will be used as a garden or as the site of public build- ings. I.ESSONS OF THE Mutiny.— The caste preiu- dice of the native soldiers which prevented them from biting off the ends of cartridges in which was the grease of cows and hogs, was the occa- sion but not the cause of the mutinv The cause was the realization of the fact tliat Brit- ain was securing a firm footing on Indian soil We can readily understand how quicklv the caste prejudice, both of Hindus and "Mohamme- dans would make itself felt, but the cause lav much deeper. It was wonderful how quicklv the news of the mutiny spread. Bishop Hurst reminds us that in Januarv 1857, a Ivaskar in Calcutta asked a Sepoy to give z I 1 ir 1/ .' ■ ' : t. i| \ I i r-. I'ffMH ' i i 1 t : 386 AROUND Til?: WORLD liiiu a diink out of his /o/a, or walcr-cup. Tlic Sepoy, becausv_ of his high caste, iiulij^naiitly rc- fusecl to grant tlie request. The Laskar replied that the Sepoy was polhitiug his caste by biting the cartridges which contained the grease of cows and hogs. The news spread rapidly, and in a regiment of native troops only about five in a hundred would touch the cartridges. Soon a soldier was sent to a military station with a lotus flower in his hand. This he gave to the chief native officer, who in turn gave it to a soldier. It was then passed on nutil every sol- dier had received it. The last soldier receiv- ing it took it to the next station. No words were spoken, but all understood the fearful meaning of this act. It meant death to every Englishman. It reminds one of the fiery cross used by the Highlanders in vScotland to arouse the clans. Six little cakes of unleavened bread, called chapatties^ were sent to tlie chief man of a vil- lage. He forwarded them to the corresponding officer of the next village. In this case, as among the soldiers, no words were spoken ; but all understood the significance of this act. The priests also appealed to the religious prejudices of the people, and were an influential factor in creating a sentiment against the foreign rulers. It was a time of terrible trial for all the British residents. They did not know whom to trust. These insurgents had been armed and trained by the English, against whom now they were using English armor and training. The great LUCKNOW 387 centers were Cawnporc, Lucknow, and Delhi, lliis wriler can never tor jret his boyish nienio- ries of those terrible clays. The nintiny tancrht Britain that she mnst henceforth recognize relicrions princii)les in the government of India. The spirit of the mis- sionaries was never appreciated before as it was after the nuitiny. The natives were al.so tanght that they never can expect to drive Britain ont of India. 1 he mutiny failed, and failed forever. Bnt It led to the granting of fnller rights to the natives of India; Great Britain afterward pn^ the natives on the same basis as that on which all other British snbjccts stand. Great honor was given to the native princes who remained loyal to Britain during that trying period. By special management on the pare of Lord Bea- consfield, Qneen Victoria was declared Empress of India. Perhaps the native Indians do not love England, bnt they know that if her strong hand were removed the foot of Russia would take its place. They know well also that Eng- land saves them from tribal jealousies and con- tinuous slaughters. They know that England conquered India not from its original owners but from its conquero-s. To quote Bishop Hurst : ^ > I V, 'M^ . The history is one long tragedy. For thirty centuries India has been compelled to pay the painful penalty of possessing the fatal gifts of wealth and beauty. She is the Lorelei of all the ages. She has aUracted the conqueror froni afar but, with only the Anglo-Saxon exception, inva- riably dealt him rum when once within sound of her siren ^1 WB m ■'at' I ifiv 1 '>■! -I I ifllH '11 v! Jl. ! fi It: t< 388 AROUND THE WORLD voice. The whole of India is one immense God's acre 01' dead civilizations and forgotten races. The noble Lawrence was killed, as we have seen, early in July, and it was not until Septem- ber 25 that Havelock and Outrani were able to force their way into the city. Although Sir Colin Campbell brought additional reinforce- ments in November, it was not until March 19, 1858, that the British fully regained Lucknow. No traveler can ever forget the stirring memo- ries which will crowd upon him as he visits im- mortal lyucknow. i's acre oi we have Septcni- able to ugh Sir ^i 11 force- arch 19, Licknow. •; meinb- isits im- XXXI DELHI DEIvHI is a city of remarkable interest. If a tourist could visit but one citv in India, Delhi is the one to be selected. Probably no city in India so fully represents various civiliza- tions as does this city, which for centuries was the proudest capital of the Mogul empire. Within a circle of a few miles about the pres- ent city, dynasty after dynasty established its power, ruled in splendor, and then passed away into silence. There have been virtually several Delhis, for each dynasty founded a new city on a new site. The old city was then left to crumble into ruins. Much of the space once occupied by these cities is now abandoned to jackals and owls. Marvelous secrets are hidden in this ancient soil; could it be plowed up and its monuments, palaces, tombs, and mosques be re- covered, a history more wonderful than that re- vealed by the excavations of Pompeii would be made known to a waiting world. The traditions of Mogul splendor still linger about the modern as well as the ancient cities. All the currents of romance, of religion, and of military daring- meet in Delhi. ^ 389 'If lij 39" AKOUND THE WORLD Shvkn Di'I.his. — Probably the name Delhi ou^lit rather to be written " Dehli." The an- cient name was Indraprestha, or Inderpnt ; the Mohannnedan name is Shahjehanabad. The re- mains of the seven Delhis covered abont forty- five sqnarc miles. These seven citif^' , as al- ready indicated, were built by sevv.*n kinj^^s of the olden time. There is mncli doubt as to the actual positions of these various cities, and prob- al)ly all the difficulties connected with these va- rious locations will never be entirely remc/vcd. It is known, howe\er, that at the time of the IMohammedan conquest the Hindu city of Delhi was confined to two forts named Lalkot and Rai Pithora. Some trace the history to a period at least i^ooB. C. But all matters connected with these dates are and must always be very uncer- tain. It is claimed that for nearly eio^ht hundred years Delhi lay waste and was then repeopled by a new race of kinji^s, who in turn were dis- placed by kin,q;s of other races. The Hindus were constantly at war among themselves. As a result Delhi was easily conquered by the Mo- hammedans in 1 191 A. D. Then the Hindu em- pire which had so lonti^ existed passed away, and the old city, probably at the site of the two forts already named, w^as destroyed. The IMoham- medan kino-s then took complete possession, and retained their position and power until about the beginning of the present century. One looks with unmingled astonishment upon the great edifices erected by these Mohannnedan DKI.III 391 conquerors. Tlicy were the ^rreat builders of their day in India and otlier countries of wliich they became masters. Shah Jchan, one of tlic .i,^reatcst of the Mo<^rul emperors, was tlieir {great- est builder, but even before his time there were builders worthy of oreat fame. In 1739 the Persian garrison, which had been introduced into the city, was put almost entirely to death by the pmple. JXdlii presented a scene of shockincr slaulets of stances 3limere near it n^>- tlie e near reneral lio led Df vic- Asoka's Pillar attracts the attention of all tourists. It is believed to have been erected originally at Meernt by Kinj; Asoka, in the third century n. c. After beinj; thrown down and broken into various i)icces, it was finally set up in this place by the British j^'^overnnicnt in 1 867. There is another of Asoka's pillars near Delhi; the other is on the top of a l)uil(linn in the village of Fero/abad. These pillars are b •- lieved to have been brou^dit to Delhi by Feroz vShali, and they are also believed to be Huddhist remains The Mutiny Memorial is an octanronal Gothic spire of red sandstone. It was erected to com- memorate the names of the rej^Muients and bat- teries that served in the mutiny, and of the offi- cers who died in the performance of their duty. On the ridjre is the sj)ot where her majesty, Queen Victoria, was proclaimed Empress of India on the first of January, 1S77. This was an oc- casion of wonderful interest. Lord Lytton oc- cupied a place in a center pavilion, while in front of liim were all the crreat princes and chiefs of India, and behind him sat the leadin^r European officials and envoys from places as distant as vSiam, and near him was drawn up a British and Indian army of fifty thousand men. Old Delhi and its neicvhborhc )d contain ]:)laces of very crrcat interest. Mention has alreadv been made of the Asoka Pillar, and much more might be said regardincr it and its Pali inscrip- tion. The Killa Kona Mosque is a noble speci- men of the architecture of the "late Pathan 'li •W' 398 AROUND THE WORLD period." There are also tombs here worthy of elaborate descriptions, especially that of Jehanara, the daughter of Shah Jehan. The tombs of Nizanm-din Aiiliya, and Humayun, and also that of Safdar Jang are worthy a full descrip- tion. U m -I' (" ^ ^\ f ^ I 1 Marvklous Pillars. — But there is no ob- ject of greater interest than the Kutub Minar. This is about eleven miles from Delhi, and is said to be one of the highest pillars in the world, being two hundred and forty-two feet high. Its diameter at the base is forty-seven feet, and the pillar is ascended by three hundred and seven ty-iiine stone steps. The view from the summit of this pillar is truly magnificent. It is said to be on the site of the original Hindu city of Dilli. It is supposed to be a tower cf victory, but its origin is lost in obscurity. Some say that it was built by Rai Pithora, that his daughter might see the Jumna from its top ; but others claim that it is of Hindu origin, although probably it was completed by the Mohammedan conquerors. It rises in a succession of five stories marked by balconies and decorated by bands of inscription. The first three stories are of red sandstone, and the two upper stories are faced with white marble. The upper portion was re- built ill 1368, when the cupola was added. An earthquake on the first of August, 1803, seriously injured the pillar and threw the cupola to the ground. In 1829 it was unwisely restored, the inscriptions being injured, and the battlements ■i>i .. ' :; V: h h DKLHI 399 ^vortliy of Jehaiiara, tombs of and also descrip- s no ob- b Minar. i, and is le world, igli. Its eet, and red and roni the ent. It 1 Hindu ovver of Some :hat his 3p; but Ithough imedan - stories ands of of red 2 faced was re- 1 An riously to the ed, the sments and balconies being removed and replaced by the present balustrade. The honeycomb work beneath Uie brackets of tlie lower balconies is the same in style as portions of the Alhambra. There is not space to speak at length of the old observatory on the road from the old to the new Delhi, the Iron Pillar, which is one of the strangest antiquities in India, and of tombs and other public buildings in and about this remark- able city of Delhi. It is not too much to say that the Kutub INIinar is one of the wonders of India. There is in it remarkable harmony of gracefulness and strength. It is wonderful that it should have remained through so many cen- turies with its masonry so nearly intact and its delicate decorations so beautifully preserved ; perhaps it had some relation to the two courts of the ancient Hirdu temple near which it stands. The Iron Pillar, to which allusion has been made, has an inscription in Sanskrit sig- nifying that the power of the Hindus will abide so long as this pillar endures. It is called "The Arm of Fame of Rajah Dhava." Probably the pillar was originally surmounted by Vishnu, of which deity the rajah was a worshiper. Some believe that the pillar was put ir. its position by the Hindus as early as a. d. 319. Its depth in the ground is twenty-eight feet, its height above the ground twenty-two feet, and its weight is estimated to be at least seventeen tons. Treasure and Slaughter. — Tourists are permitted, under certain conditions, to visit the Ail m /I >? ' ■ 4' ' 1 1 ''1 i ' ■ '''h \ iff' ' r ■ ^ '■ !' ; y .''I ^i^* 1 i . ■ •i 1 'I- 11 ! •'•fi' ^1 it- t ' : !■' m * '?n =!! )■ *, 400 AROUND THE WORLD palace of the late king of Delhi. IMany evi- dences of its former elegance and splendor are still there, and some remains of the famous Pea- cock Throne are still to be seen. Delhi never recovered from the blov,' inflicted upon it by Nadir Shah, who murdered its people and carried away its treasures, valued at least at one hundred million pounds sterling. The Koh-i-noor dia- mond was among his prizes on that occasion. This diamond, " Mountain of Light," now forms a part of Queen Victoria's jewels, after a strange and romantic history. When Nadir Shah sacked Delhi, and broke up the Peacock Throne, to his disappointment he failed to find the great Koh-i-noor, which he knew formed one of tin yes of one peacock. The Mogul emperor did not seem to have it in his possession, but a woman informed the con- queror that it was concealed in the turban of the defeated emperor. The conqueror did not dare institute a search for the missing treasure, as a treaty had been concluded, and most of the jewels were in his hands. With true Oriental shrewdness he resorted to a trick, which proved successful. Nadir proposed to the defeated shah that a great feast should be held to show the amity of their present relations. At the height of the elaborate ceremonies Nr ur proposed to the defeated emperor, as a proc>f > good faith, an exchange of turbans. This va a critical moment for both. The turban of the conqueror glittered with gems ; that of the defeated shah was plain in the extreme, but hidden in its folds laiiy evi- sndor are nous Pea- :lhi never on it by id carried hundred loor dia- occasion. 3w forms 1 strange id broke ointment vliicli he peacock, ave it in tlie con- m of tlie not dare ire, as a of the Oriental proved ed shah Iiow the t height •osed to d faith, critical iiqueror 'd shah ts folds DELHI 401 was the priceless Koh-i-noor. There was no time for reflection; action must be prompt. What could the possessor of the great gem do ^ Ihe exchange was made. Nadir retired to liis tent, hastily removed the turban, and joyouslv saw that the Koh-i-noor was his. For years this priceless diamond was a part of the treasury in Uhore. But in 1849 the East India Company took this treasury in part vay- ment of the debt which the Lahore government owed wlien the Punjab was annexed to the Britisli possessions. It was a part of this stipulation that the Koh-i-noor should be given to Queen Victoria. Soon after the East India Board met and the diamond was committed to Lord Law- rence, to be delivered to the queen. He put it into the pocket of his waistcoat, went home clianged his clothes, and forgot all about the treasure in the pocket. Soon after a messaire came froin the queen ordering the diamond to be sent her. Sir John Lawrence said to his brother Henry, " Well, send it at once." Heiirv rep led, "Why, you have it." John w^as filled with astonishment and alarm. He searched diligently for the garment, and anxiously ex- amined Its pockets, and there lay the Koh-i-noor. It lias undergone many changes in cutting and dressing and setting; but it now secureU rests in Windsor Castle. This is but a brief outline ot a long, mysterious, and fascinating historv as to d in part by Bishop Hurst, and much more tully by several historians. Delhi will always be closely identified with 2 A ,1 1- •.|;. ill ■It i fit <• ■'-R I • I • ■i 402 AROUND THE WORLD the great Indian Mutiny. It is not too nuich to say that for a time Delhi was its very center and the citadel of its strength. It was most natural that around this city of Hindu and Alohammedin history a romantic interest should have gathered for those who were anxious to throw off British rule, and to crown Delhi with something of its ancient glory. There was a sufTicient number of Knglish soldiers in the cantonment to have crushed the mutiny, but General Hewitt did not appreciate the necessity for vigorous action, and soon the jails were opened, and the worst men in the city v/ere massacring the women and chil- dren, and burning the houses. The mutineers secured possession of Delhi and held it with a firm hand. Not until September were the British able to secure possession again. They knew well that they must be masters of Delhi or they could not really perpetuate their power in India, but the rebels had so intrenched them- selves that it seemed well-nigh impossible to dis- lodge them. Delhi, it was well known, would minister as no other town in India to the pride of a glorious history. After the mutiny broke out Shah Mohammed Bahadoser, then ninety years old, took charge of the city, resuming the imperial state which once he enjoyed. After repeated failures the British, under Gen- eral Nicholson, retook Delhi. The walls near the Cashmere gate still bear traces of the shot and shell of those terrible days. The gate was blown open by having powder bags placed against it which were exploded by a lighted DELHI 403 ) iiiiich to enter and st natural ammed^n ; gathered if British ing of its t number t to have tt did not :tion, and orst men and chil- tnutineers it with a were the n. They of Delhi eir power led tliem- ble to dis- vn, would the pride iny broke tn ninety iming the tider Gen- ralls near the shot : gate was ll^s placed a lighted fuse. Those engaged in this work well knew that many of them must give their lives in their devotion to their duty, but they did not hesitate for a moment. The gate was blown open and the remnant of brave columns marched into the city. There was still much terrible fighting to be done, but in two weeks more, on the twenty- third of September, the final struggle was made and the English flag floated over the great forf but General Nicholson fell in the moment of victory. No loyalty to the British crown was ever appreciated more by British hearts around the globe than that displayed in India in restor- ing British sovereignty in that far-off land. iifj ^1 l|. 'I i' _ • X ■'ie^i4*»«*-iKtvwF*«»Lsv®*..t J . > = \.l I XXXII AGRA ui mi^ AGRA was visited while going from Bombay to Calcutta ; and a night ride from Agra brought the writer in the early morning to Cawnpore. The name Agra is applied to the province and district, or zillah, and to the city. The city is the capital of the district and the province of the same name. It is located on the right bank of the Jumna, one of the sacred rivers of India. It is connected by railway with all the principal cities of the country. It is about one hundred and twenty miles southeast of Delhi and eight hundred and forty miles north- west of Calcutta. Its population, including its two suburbs and the garrison, is one hundred and sixty-five thousand. It is the center of a large trade in cotton, sugar, indigo, salt, and silks. Formerly Agra was the provincial capi- tal, but since the mutiny the seat of govern- ment has been in Allahabad. The city is about four miles long and three wide, and it sweeps in a graceful semi-circle along the banks of the river. The houses, for the most part, are of the red sandstone of the neighboring hills. The principal street intersects the town from north to south. This street is spacious and clean, but 404 ACxRA 405 Other streets which run along the banks of the river are irregular and narrow. The ancient walls embrace an area of nearly eleven square miles, and about one half of this space is now occupied. V i 'fVl '!i» I'f * ilil I. ' t; 408 AKOUND TIIK WORM) trees, one walks to the beautiful tomb. Tlie loinl) stands on a raised platform of marble, wliieh rests on a terrace of red sandstone. This platform is eighteen feet hij^h and three hundred and thirteen feet square, and at each corner there rise graceful minarets one hundred and thirty- three feet high. Probably there are no mina- rets in India, or in any other country, more ex- quisite in their proportions than these. In the center of the marble platform of which I have spoken, stands the mausoleum itself, an irregular octagon of one hundred and eighty- six feet in length, the corners being cut off to the extent of thirty-three feet and nine inches. The principal dome is fifty-eight feet in diam- eter and eighty feet in height. Under this there is an enclosure formed by the screen of pierced work of white marble. It would be difficult to imagine anything more beautiful than is this screen. In a country where the light was less bright such a screen might defeat its object, but here it simply softens the light and beautifies all within the enclosure. Mr. Fergusson, in his history of architecture, calls this screen the " chcf-ci'' oetivve of elegance in In- dian art." Within this screen are the tombs of the Emperor Shah Jehan and his favorite wife. The bodies rest in a vault level with the surface of the ground, and under plainer tombstones exactly beneath those which are seen in the wall above. This screen, of which I have spoken, beautifully tempers the glare of the bright light in a building composed of white AGRA 409 The marble. It would be impossible to cxa.i^j^erate the chastened beauty of that central chamber. The building and the warden are e(iually well adapted to the requirements of a pleasure palace and to the needs of an impressive sepulchre. Here was one of the fniest examples of the inlaying of precious stones which ^^raced the architectural style of the period. All the span- drils of the Taj and all the more important an- gles were inlaid with precious stones ; these were in places combined with wreaths, scrolls, and frets, the beauty of the desi^u^n bein.i,'- matched by the harmony in color. All these brilliant colors were chastened by the pure white marble in which they were laid. The jewels have been removed to ICngland and their place filled with glass of similar colors; it would have been im- possible, except by keeping a large force of sol- diers always on guard, to protect jewels of so great value. Probably in no case in the history of the world were more beautiful styles of orna- ment so well adapted to the characteristics of the architecture of which they formed a part. The exquisite taste displayed is as remarkable as the conception of the relation between the archi- tecture and its ornamentation, both reflecting great credit on the judgment of the architects of the period. There has been much discussion as to who was the principal architect, and it is generally agreed that that honor belongs to Austin de Bordeaux, who was known to have been then in the employment of the emperor. This great building was commenced, it is said, •j; I : Ml Mi 'i n J'l'' I' I' • 1.^ t I i i. ■iii h' vj. 410 AROUND THK WORUD in 1630, and twenty tlionsand workmen spent twenty years ni)()n it before it was completed ; tlins, cheap as labor then was in India, this sn- perb tomb cost at least fifteen, perhaps twenty, million dollars. All this was for the emperor's favorite wife, Arjimand Bann Begmn, who wasentitled Mnmtaz Mahal, literally, the "Chosen of the Palace," or, accordinj^ to a freer translation, the " Pride of the Palace." She was the danj^hter of Asaf Khan ; her ^grandfather was Mirza Cihiyas, a Persian who came from Teheran to seek his fortnne in India. He speedily rose to power and acqnired the title of Itimadn Donlah. She became the wife of Shah Jehan in 1615; she bore him seven chil- dren, and died at the time of the birth of her eighth child, in 1629, ^^ Bnrhanpnr, in the Dec- can. Her body was b ^ight to Agra for bnrial and was laid in the • 'en where the Taj now stands, nntil this mausoleum was completed. He had promised to erect for her in that gar- den a palace whose beauty should attract the people from the ends of the earth. In his grief over her sudden death his plans for her palace were changed so as to create this superb mau- soleum, and its beauty now attracts visitors from the ends of the earth. This glorious Taj is a song in marble, a vision of beauty, a prophecy of immortality ! It will live forever in the mem- ory as last seen in the soft, short Indian gloam- ing from the distance of more than a mile on the other side of the Jumna. The Taj was repaired just previous to the visit AGKA 411 wliich the Prince of Wales made to India. The tomb is constrneted of brick veneered with marble, and much of this veneerinj; needed to be repaired in order to restore the building to its ori^niial perfection. Never will any visitor forjret the impression produced n])on him by the sni)erb dome. The heij^dit from the base to the top of this dome must be nearly three hundred feet, and it .seems to float in the air rather than to rest upon the ground. A remarkable echo was produced by repeating a few lines of poetry as I stood beneath the arched roof of the cupola. Throuo-h this dimly lighted vault there rolled the soft and sweet repetitions of the words wliich I had read of as forming the inscription on the tomb, and which I pronounced: "To the mem- ory of an undying love," making a music .so delicate and pathetic as to touch the heart and moisten the eye. The word love rolled tremu- lously to heaven; softened and sweetened, it came back to earth ; then it rolled around the walls, and then ascended again to heaven. Still more softly and sweetly it came back to earth, giving an experience never before known, and perhaps never again to be enjoyed. Standing l)eneath this dome and over the tombs where sleeps the royal dust, this echo assuredly exer- cised a weird charm and became a thrilling mys- tery. But few things come up to their reputation. One of these is the inland sea of Japan, another is the Alhambra, in Granada, and the last rnd greatest is the Taj in Agra. The gateway lead- 4: )" f ! il '■I '( 412 AROUND THE WORLD < I h> I ^ij I'l iiig to so superb a <^arden and so glorious a mauso- leum would itself attract attention. Mr. Fergus- son calls it a worthy pendant to the Taj itself. It is made of red sandstone, inlaid with orna- ments and inscriptions from the Koran. The stream of water which runs the whole length of the garden, from the entrance gateway to the Taj, adds greatly to the effect of the entire scene. In it the Taj is mirrored at times, and the rich foliage gives the requisite border to the picture as the water reflects the symmetrical proportions of the superb Taj. One cannot help but admire the love which led Shah Jehan to erect this glorious mausoleum " to the memory of an un- dying love " ; but neither can one help think- ing of his various other wives to whom he gave the cold shoulder by his utter neglect. Still it will ever be remarkable that such a mausoleum was erected and such an inscription carved by a Mohammedan ruler to any woman ; and building it for her, it afterward became his own mauso- leum, so that his unselfish love gives himself, with his wife, undying fame. :M, mi \ The Fort and Other Buildings. — There are many other objects of interest in Agra. The fort must always claim the attention of every tourist. It justifies the criticism that the "Mo- guls designed like Titans and finished like j-_-v- elers." This building stands on the right bank of the Jumna. The walls are very high and most imposing in appe ^rance, but they would be powerless as a defense against the methods of AGRA 413 a mauso- , Fergus- aj itself, th orna- m. The length of y to the ire scene, the rich e picture oportions it admire irect this of an nn- :lp think- n he gave . Still it lansoleum rved by a d building NW mauso- ;s himself, ^S. — There .gra. The 1 of every t the "Me- ld like ^c-v- right bank r high and y would be methods of modern warfare. Within the fort are many most beautiful buildings ; notably among these are the " Diwan-i-Am " (Judgment Hall) ; the " Moti Musjid " (Pearl Mosque) ; the " Diwan-i- Khas " (Audience Hall); the " Jchangir Mahal " (Palace of Jehangir.) The Moti Musjid, as the name implies, is a gem or pearl. It certainly is one of the most perfect buildings of its class to be found in the world, and its cost was enormous. Jt was built by Shah Jehan. The photographs of it, secured at the time, delight the eye and refresh the memory. The Diwan-i-Am was built by Ak- bar, according to the general opinion, although some writers attribute it also to Shah Jehan. This building is two hundred and one feet lo'.ig from north to south, and the roof is supported by graceful colums of red sandstone. The Diwan- i-Khas is a miracle of beauty ; the floors, inlaid work on white marble, are a never-ceasing source of delight. From this building the emperor could look over the broad river to the gardens and buildings on the opposite shore. The Je- hangir Mahal is a red stone palace built by Jehangir aft^ . the death of Akbar. The masonic symbol of the double triangle inlaid in white marble is hce frequently seen and has attracted great attention. The Jumna Musjid faces the Delhi p-ate of the fort. This l)uildino- is maikcd by all the vigor and originality of the early Mogul style ; this also was constructed by the Emperor Shah Jehan, as the inscription over the main archway shows. He built it in the name 'iV >' . ( 'i ■\i isJ I > 414 AROUND THE WORI.D |i . I'l 1 , 1: 1 1 <•'.■?; V'. :''''' I ■ '/'. II r I'i of his daughter Jelianara, who shared her father's captivity after he was deposed by his son Auraiig- zib. There are in Agra a number of churches and other public buildings worthy of attention ; the Agra College, the Government College, and the Medical College, are all interesting buildings and are suggestive of the progress making in modern science. The Promenade Gardens, ki.own as the Asafa Bagh, are also attractive to visitors and to the people of the town. One of the finest buildings in Agra is the tomb of Iti- madu Doulah, and there are a number of tombs in this magnificent mausoleum. Akbar's tomb is at Secundra, a distance of about four miles from Agra. The gateway to this tomb is mag- nificent to an unusual degree, even in the midst of such superb structures as one sees in Agra. Perhaps, however, no building in the town interested me more than the Agra Havelock Baptist Chapel. The pastor is Rev. G. R. M. Roche. There is vigorous church work going on in connection with this earnest body of Chris- tians. They have three services every Sunday, and a service of some sort every day in the week. It is very fitting that they should honor the name of Havelock in connection with this church. Most travelers go also to Futtehpore Sikri, which is about twenty-two miles from Agra on the Jeypore road. This was formerly the Wind- sor of Agra, and was a favorite residence of Ak- bar. There are buildings here of great historic i'. if AGRA 415 r father's Auraiijr- :lies and on ; the and the uildings king in wardens, LCtive to One of ) of Iti- f tombs 's tomb r miles is mag- e midst igi-a. e town ivelock R. M. : going F Chris- kinday, in the honor th this interest and intrinsic beanty ; there is no end to the beautifnl bnildings that these Mogul em- perors have erected. The royal apartments in the palace of Akbar, the grotto of glass, the bath- rooms, the courts, chambers, fountains, pavilions, reception halls, throne-rooms, all of marble and mosaic — beauty, delicacy, taste, and wealth are here displayed to such a degree that the most matter-of-fact description would seem to be an unpardonable exaggeration. All this will apply to the tomb of Akbar at Secundra. Were it not that this building is only one of many other buildings, it would be itself a wonder almost beyond description ; but the greater charm and loveliness of the Taj rob this magnificent tomb of some of its impression of beauty and glory. It was from Uiis grand architectural structure that the Koh-i-noor was at one time taken. One scarcely knows where to stop, if his supply of adjectives be not exhausted, in any attempt to describe the exquisite taste, varied beauty, splen- dor, and magnificence of these Mogul structures. ' v:i' u 1:^ Sikri, gra on Wind- of Ak- listoric n H XXXIII WKSTp:RN INDIA T '■ 111 I ' WE must hasten to Bombay, and on the way visit the next town in our itiner- ary, which is Ajnicre. AjMHRK. — This city has a population of about seventy thousand, and is the capital of the Brit- ish district in Rajputana ; it is also the head- quarters of the Rajputana railway and is the junction for the military station of Nusscerabad. The city is surrounded l3y a stone wall with five gateways, and is a place of great antiquity and celebrity. The city ii. elf lies in a plain, and on a hill rising abruptly from it is the celebrated rocky and picturc;;quc Taragarh Hill, three tliousand feet above the sea. The fort on this hill, so advantageously located, dominates the extensive plain. The city is marked by its Hindu character- istics and associations. Like Jeyporc, it once was the capital of a clan of rajputs, but now no native rajah is here and there is not even the semblance of a court. The city contains many fine houses and is evidently prosperous, although not perhaps to the same degree as Jeypore. Its more recent origin is traced to A. d. 145, when it 416 . r WKvSTKRN INDIA 417 on the itiner- )f about lie Brit- e head- is the ?crabacl. 'ith five lity and and on ebrated I, three on tliis ites the aracter- it once now no ven the s many Ithoncyh re. Its when it was supposed to be founded by one of the Cho- tan kings. Strange tlioughts come to a tourist as he walks the streets of a city that was okl h)ng before the Christian era, and that was built, probably, by the ancient Aryans. But the Hin- dus early acquired the characteristics by which they are known in later history. This tower and city were long the objects of temptation to all the invaders in this part of India. When the Afghans invaded India at the end of the twelfth century, they directed all their ambition to the capture of this fort, and they finally succeeded. The rajputs, however, retook the city and reoccupied the fort, but it was captured again by the Moguls, and in the seventeenth century it became an imperial resi- dence of the invaders. When the time came for the overthrow of the Mogul empire the raj- puts again captured their hill and fort. The fierce Mahrattas, however, strove to wrest it from its rajputanian owners, and they were suc- cessful ; but on June 25, 1818, the fortress, with the city of Ajmere, was ceded to the British by the Mahratta chief Sindhia, who was obliged to yield to the superior power of the British arms. It seems to be the fate of all these warring tribes eventually to submit to the resistless march of the A?iglo-Saxons. The Akbar palace is outside the city proper, and not far from the railway station. The Resi- dency is on the brink of a beautiful artificial lake called Ana Saugar, which was constructed by Rajah Ana as early as the middle of the 2B wsm wmmmm 418 AROUND TlIK WORLD ami] 47' 1 I i it I s i ( •1 ^ r 1: i' \ 1 J i 1 B:i^.M are re- labits of Dargah )ver liis k\ with mosque >f white t is still Jonipra, s," from d a half :n built tin tem- ven the as built Mosque as one of the finest specimens of early Mohammedan architecture. Near the railway station are extensive work- shops in which many thousands of Hindu and Mohammedan workmen are employed, Ajmere being the headquarters of seventeen hundred miles of what is called the meter-gauge railway. A day can be thoroughly well spent in this very old and equally interesting city. It is difficult to know how to compress all that one would like to say in describing a visit of part of a day between two trains within and without the walls of this old and famous rajput capital. Ahmedabad. — Before reaching Bombay we must stop for a little time at least to visit Ahme- dabad, the ancient capital of the sultans of Guzert.t. This is the second city in the Bom- bay Presidency. It was the stronghold of the Northern Jains, and in the latter part of the six- teenth century was one of the largest cities in Western India. Bishop Hurst remarks that " in the splendor of its architecture and the wealth of its citizens it is the Hindu P'lorence." With- out doubt the Mohammedan conquerors found here a city of great wealth and beauty ; the com- pleteness of its decorations and the massiveness of its architecture must have surpassed anythirg that they had previously beheld. Their con- quest was accomplished about the end of the fourteenth century by viceroys of the emperor of Delhi. They immediately began to convert this beau- H' ;,!• 420 AROUND THE WORLD f. tifnl Hindu city into a Mohammedan metropo- lis. Marble and other building materials were brought from a long distance, and magnificent mosques, palaces, and tombs were here erected. A citadel and fort of great strength were built and the city was laid out in broad streets. Mer- chants, manufacturers, and skillful craftsmen under Ahmad Shah made Ahmedabad a center of trade and of manufacture. During the re- mainder of the fifteenth century this city grew constantly in size, wealth, and in the number and splendor of its public buildings. But after the reign of Sultan Mohammed Begada the for- tunes of Ahmedabad began to decline. The Portuguese crippled its trade by their vig- orous competition, and the quarrels of the tur- bulent nobles constantly interfered with the suc- cess of the city in business and in its own ex- pansion and ornamentation. Then came the great Akbar in 1572, called in by a party of the Guzerat nobles, and under him, as we have seen, Ahmedabad became a province of the Mogul emperor. It soon became the greatest city in India for rich silks and curiously wrought gold cloth in which were figures of flowers and birds and other curious designs. But the Mogul nobles experienced internal disorders which weakened them as it weakened their predeces- sors, and the town was finally pillaged by the Mahrattas. In 1780, after a gallant assault, it was taken by the English, but as the result of certain treaty arrangements it was restored to the Mah- Hi ' ! 1! WESTERN INDIA 421 H rattas, and remained in their power until 1818 when, on the overtlirow of the Pesliwa's jrov- ernnient, it onee more eame into the hands of the British. It is now a city of about one hun- dred and fifty thousand inhabitants ; it stands on the left bank of the Sabarmati River, which skirts its western wall. Its water supply is taken from wells sunk in the bed of the river. All travelers should make an especial effort to visit this remarkable city. Here, as seldom in India or any other country, the old and the new lie side by side. In this respect this city is like what Montreal and Quebec were a <;enera- tion aj^o, when the old French styles of streets and buildini^s lay in close proximity to modern British examples of both. So in this Indian city the British ideas have broadened some of the streets and have given an air of cleanliness and prosperity to sections of the city ; but evi- dences of the old Hindu and Mohannnedan civ- ilizations still exist. A strange feature of many of the streets is the " Jc.ina feeding-places for birds." These are extremely picturesque, being richly ornamented with carving and often gay with bright colors. The houses in many of the streets are also richly ornamented with wood carving. It is fitting that we should look at some of the famous places in this city, but we can only glance at their many charms, as we must resume our journey. The Jumma Musjid, or principal mosque, is near the center of the city. It was built by Sultan Ahmad I., in 1424. Mr. Fer- 1 1 1 / ■ ! I i\\' ■.., , \,.: A ji^iissoii calls it "one of the most beautiful inosqucs in the East." Knibedded in the pave- ment on the threshold lies a black slab, which is supposed to be a Jain idol turned upside down, that on it the faithful mij^ht tread. Near it is a white marble crescent on which the imam stands while he prays. There is a gallery in which the women of the royal family, as it is supposed, met to worship. Its roof is supported by two hundred and sixty columns, and it has fifteen cupolas surrounded by galleries ; these have perforated stone screens of exquisite beauty and so designed as to exclude the glare of the sun and admit simply a soft and chastened light. On marble slabs, and in other parts of the mosque, are Arabic inscriptions from the Koran, some of which would not be inappropriate in any of our Christian churches. The mausoleum of Sultan Ahmad is ap- proached by a tower in the east wall of the Musjid. It is a massive building, enclosing several white marble tombs. Its windows are of perforated stone work, and its central cham- ber, which is thirty-six feet square, is superbly paved with marble of different colors. A few yards to the east and across the street are the tombs of the queens of Ahmad Shah. This enclosure is entered by a lofty gateway. In the center of the rectangular court are eight large and several small cenotaphs. This building is one of the finest in this remarkable city. J II Tombs and MOvSQUKS. — Rrni Spiri's mosque WESTERN INDIA 423 and toiiil) sonic wonld say arc the most bcanti- fnl nionnnicnts in Alnnedabad. Slic was the wife of a son of Ahmad Shah, and tliis mosqne and tomb were completed in 143 1, nnder her own direction and, as some believe, according; to her own desij^n. The two minarets arc al)ont fifty feet high and their fonr compartments taper to the top. They have zones of snperb Ilindn work, reachinf^ from the pedestal to the topmost gallery. Fine as all the buildings and monnmcnts are of which I have spoken, perhaps the finest of all is the mosqne of Sidi vSaid. One side of it is a part of the wall which inclndes the jail bnilding, but the jail was once a palace occupied by nobles from Delhi. It was afterward changed into an arsenal and finally into the provincial jail. Two of the windows are filled with delicate stone tracery, representing the trunk and branches of a tree, all most delicately and beautifully wrought. These vegetable forms are most skill- fully employed in these windows. One is filled with indescribable wonder at the patience, taste, and skill of these ancient workmen. Mr. Fer- gnsson, in his history of Indian architecture, in speaking of the white marble tracery of the trees, stems, and branches, says : " It is probably more like the work of nature than any other architec- tural detail that has yet ever been designed by the best architects of Greece or of the Middle Ages." There are here also the Fire Temple and Towers of Silence of the Parsis. I cannot take time and space here to speak in ! M 424 AROUND TlIK WOULD <^\ ' ii IJH;, y 1 III detail of the Dastiir Kluur.s mosque, with its wonderful open seieen work; or the Ilaibat Khan's niosciue, which was one of the earliest tombs to comi)ine Mohammedan and Hindu architectural desij^ns ; or of the Tin Darwazah, or " three j^ateways " ; or the mostjue of Malik vShaban ; or of several other moscjues, tombs, and other monuments and public buildinj>;s. Let mc ur<^c aj^ain all tourists to India to arranj^e their plans so as to spend a day, if i)ossible, or at least half a day, in this city so rich in historic interest and so marvelous in architectural skill and beauty ; a city celebrated still for its handi- craftsmen, its jroldsmiths, jewelers, brass workers, stone masons, lacquer workers, its figured silks, its silver and ^o\(\ tissues, its brocades, the finest produced in India, and its gold and silver lace and thread. It is an interesting fact that the Nagar-Seth, or City lyord of Ahmedabad, is the titular head of all the guilds. He is even treated by the gov- ernment as a representative, and is the highest personage in the city. Among all the wonder- ful Indian cities Ahmedabad must always hold .», prominent place. Jkyporp: or Jaipur. — Of Jcypore, or Jaipur, I had read and heard considerable, and I felt un- usual curiosity to see it. It is in many respects a unique city. It is generally reputed to be the finest native city in all India. It is the capital of the State of the same name in Rajputana, and is the largest town and chief commercial center !■ i'l s»( WHSTl'KN INIJIA 425 head of Rajpiitana. Its population is put down at one liiiiidrcd and forty tlionsand. It is the modern capital, while Amber is the ancient capital. Jeypore is also the residence of the maharajah. Mis State covers fifteen thousand square miles, and there is under him a popula- tion of two and a half millions. Jeypore is the headquarters of the British Resident. Some affirm that it is not oidy the most beautiful native city, but the most beautiful city, native or Hritish, in India. The town is about two miles lon^ and more than a mile wide, and is surrounded by a wall of masonry with strou}^ jrateways and lofty towers. It is laid out in rectangular blocks and is divided into six equal parts by its cross streets. The principal street is at least one hundred and fifty feet wide, and runs the entire lenj»^th of the town. The prince who rules over this territory is a man in middle life, and has the reputation of being intclli<^ent, and courteous toward all vis- itors, and especially all Americans. He exer- cises his p^rcat authority over his people with considerate wisdom and with pro<>ressive ideas. He has traveled in many countries and com- mands the respect of the British authorities as well as that of all his native subjects. His palace is in the center of the city and is said to cover about one-seventh of the total area of the town ; with its gardens, it is at least half a mile long, and is eight stories high. It is beautifully adorned and the space is divided into courts, gardens, and public halls; there is also a public 426 AROUND THK WORLD r ■!'>>( '. 4' :;! mint, observatory, hospital, and a larj>e arstnal. Tlie maharajah supports a military organization, which in time of necessity will be at the service of the British government in repelling a foreign invader, or in snppressing internal disorders. This town has a modern and Occidental look, and in this respect is distingnished fiom many of the towns in India and other parts of tlie Orient. It is Enropean rather than Oriental ; the people, however, are still Oriental, althongh the town is laid ont after Knropea;' models. They are still Hindns, thongh living in a city constiucted and governed after Christian models. It is understood that the maharajah employs able foreign teachers and that all the schools are free to his people. The maharajah's college has made greater progress than any other college in Raj- pntana. It is a remarkable thing that it has nov/ a dailv class attendance of about one thou- sand. It is affiliated with the Calcutta Univer- sity. There are schools for music, for the fine arts, and others devoted to the primary branches of education, such as arithmetic, history, and still other elementary studies. This prince is public spirited and expends his revenues on buildings for the education of his people rather than on peacock thrones, as did some of the ea/ lier Indian princes. This city in iJie heart of India is thus a mixture of Oriertal conservatism and European progress. It is not a little noticeable that the streets of the town are lighted by gas. Everything about the city gives the impression of newness and progress. t; m WESTERN INDIA 427 One grows weary of ruins and is rather glad to visit a city i'i which there are no ruins. The prosperity f l this vicinity under a native prince has created no small amount of discussion as to the wisdom of British rule in India. There is a marked contrast between this city and many directly under British control. There poverty abounds; here tliere are no mud 'Mb-iiS and no marked poverty. Beggars are rue lu Jeypore and people are comfortably clotl\t.J iri are well lodged. It must be understood, how- ever, that Jeypore is a marked exception to the cities under native control. j\Iany other poitions of India, over which native princes directly rule, present marked exceptions to the progress and prosperity seen in this ciiy. The British con- quered India from its Mohammedan invaders. These Mohammedans ruled this vast country with a rod of iron, and the rule of the British, taken as a whole, is a vast improvement on the government of the maharajah and of the Moham- medans ; but there is no desire to discredit the marked evidences of prosperity seen in this town uiider a native prince. The town derives its name from the famous Maharajah Siwai Jey or Jai Sing II. The bcoks tell us that he founded it in 1728, and this late date accounts well for the modern air of the town. The fact is that the old rajput was de- vel < ,! rounded on all sides except the south by motived hills. The air of prosperit'" seen everywhere is especially marked in connection with the native manufacture of jewelry and many kinds of cloths. It is claimed that the enamel work done here, and also the cutting- and setting: of <^arnets and other jewels, are the best of their kind in India. The Diwan-i-Khas, Private Hall of Audience, is built entirely of white marble, and is remark- able for its simplicity and imposing grandeur. All the gardens are noticeable for their taste and care. The Public Gardens, outside the city wall, are over seventy acres in extent, and cost nearly two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. They were designed by a British officer, and are, without doubt, the finest gardens in India. In these gardens there is a statue of Lord Mayo, and in the center of the garden is the Albert Hall. This is a sumptuous building, whose corner-stone was laid by tlie Prince of Wales in 1876. The Jantra, or Observatory, is the lar- gest of the five buildings by the celebrated royal astronomer, Jey vSing. It is an open courtyard, and contains many strange and even fantastic instruments invented by himself. j\Iany of these are now out of repair, and it is not possible to say with certainty for what purpose he intended that they should be employed. IVIany tourists make a visit to Amber, the ancient capital. This writer did not have time to gratify his desire to see that ancient town. It is about four miles from Jey pore and is largely inhabited by Hindu fakirs. The maha- f fti 1* -A.-> WKSTKRN INDIA 429 rajah not infrequently furnishes tourists with elephants to enable them to visit this town and its palace. It was the capital of Jeypore until 1728. Permission from the Resident of Jeypore is necessary in order to visit Amber. IJishop Hurst is quoted as sayino;' that he never viewed a scene so strikinj^ly picturesque and beautiful as the gorgeous palace rising from the margin of the lake. All visitors speak of it as a grand pile, although lacking in some of the elements of decoration characteristic of Hindu taste and wealth. The rajah's own apartments here are characterized by great splendor and by lavish display of wealth. It was a matter of regret to this writer that he could not visit this ancient, peculiarly attractive, and beautiful city. The whole territory of Rajputana is interest- ing to an unusual degree. The people are more like the Aryan conquerors of the original tribes than are any other of the Indian tribes. When the IMohammedan conquerors from Persia in- vaded India, they found tlie rajputs in possession of all the northwestern portion of the country. The natives called the country Rajasthan, the country of the chiefs. There was here, at one time, stretching from the valley of the Indus to tlie Ganges, a confederacy of clans similar, as iushop Hurst remarks, to the (iermans in the time of Cocsar and the Scots in the time of Bruce. Acquaintance with a rajput in New York, a descendant of the ancient chief Jey Sing, gave me a special interest in visiting this part of India, and especially this city of Jeypore. 1 A I n i< ' ' b'ii .' XXXIV ^i':* : i'lj. BOMBAY WE are now hastening back to Bombay, and the time is approaching when the steamer ninst be taken and India b ) left behind. Most delightfnl has been the sojonrn of even a few weeks in this fascinating country. Many cities have been passed over, however great was tlie desire to see them, because of the neces- sary limitation in time, but enough was seen to gratify a long-cherished desire and to stimulate the appetite to revisit India. The whole coun- try is invested with a historic charm and a poetic glamour. Nowhere else can so much that is picturesque in dress, in manners, and in all social relations be seen. One who goes to India before visiting China and Japan will expe- rience an anti-climax in visiting the two latter conntries. The Indians are our Aryan brethren ; in meeting them we are finding a long-lost ac- quaintance. Notwithstanding the many degrad- ing elements of their heathenism, there is still ■luch that is full of charm in the country and the people. The mingling of varied civiliza- tions, of tribal relations, and the study of the progress of British civilization and of Christi- anity, give an unusual charm to this ancient and 430 ►ombay, len the behind. )f even Many eat was : neces- seen to imnlate le conn- and a ) much , and in goes to 11 expe- o latter ethren ; -lost ac- degrad- is still try and :iviliza- of the Christi- ent and BOMBAY 431 fascinating country and people. With thoughts like these I went from town to town on my hasty tour. The trip was short, but it would be diffi- cult for any one, the writer honestly believes, to see more than did he in the time at command. It is but a night's ride from Ahmedabad to Bombay. So far as was possible, long distances between cities were taken at night, both in order to save time and to escape the greater heat of the daytime. As it was at Bombay that Great Britain got her lirst foothold in India, so very often at Bombay tourists have their first view of India. Theie is a genuine charm in this quaint city, a charm which increases rather than dimin- ishes by a second visit. Here the first glimpse of the commingling Indian civilizations, Hindu, Mohammedan, Parsi, and Christian, not to speak of the earlier tribal civilizations, is enjoyed. There is a strange attraction in this Indian life, and a tourist comes back to Bombay prepared to enjoy its picturesque views with a much greater interest than when he first saw this far-off Indian city. India's Chief Port.— It is supposed that the name Bombay is from the word " Bambe," the name of an Indian goddess, named Mani'be or Bambe Dwi, or Mambai, meaning "Great Mother," to whom once there was a temple on what is now the Esplanade. The Portu- guese, however, who came into possession of the islands in 1530, derived the name from hiwii- bahia, which word in the Portuguese tongue >:■■ .t!« V ^^^^^^Kifvr ' ^ Wh 'ill ■i III ^^Kit^ ' 1 1 .it'!: -' 'I ^K^'^l •' ^ ^K'^^l •\' H^^ 1 'i J. ■; ^ \^-\ |: ::! :ii'!'. ■'' ' •'1 If ' i^' ^Hf ' ' A ' 'l :■ ■ ;'''l i 1', ■ ' i 1/ '' i 1 ' * 1 1 k.'i| I ■ V ■ ■ ■ r '•' f 1 '. ; \ '1 \ ' ■ ' * [' 'j 1.' ■ 1 i i (L , •* • ni li ' ' 1' ' 1 »'■!' ( i! 1 liO'l! ■ i 1 . '.; 432 AROUND THE WORLD means "good bay." This city is the capital of the province. It is a large province, and for- merly was a presidency and one of the ten great government divisions of British India. The city is situated on an island of the same name, which is separated from the mainland by an arm of the sea. The island is ten to eleven miles long and about three miles wide, and the city occupies its southern extremity. Few places are more pic- turesque as the tourist approaches them than is this queenly city. Since the opening of the Suez Canal it has acquired great commercial as well as political importance. It is now at the head of the Indiar ports, so far as concerns Eu- ropean trade ; but Calcutta, as we have already seen, is still the seat of the vice-regal govern- ment of India. The area of the city is estimated at about twenty-two square miles. The population is between eight hundred and nine hundred thou- sand. The Hindus number over half a million of this population ; the Mohammedans are about one hundred and fifty thousand, and the Chris- tians forty-five thousand ; Parsis fifty thousand, Jews five thousand, and several smaller sects, the Jains being much the largest, make up the remainder of the population. The population of the city proper is very dense, as most of the people occupy only about four square miles of the entire area. That sickness is not more fre- quent is evidence that the climate is reasonably healthful. Although the city was once very unhealthful, the drainage latterly has been so BOMBAY 433 greatly improved, that in ordinary seasons the proportion of deaths is very little larger than in l^ondon. The opening of conimnnication by railway to all parts of India has contributed greatly to the rapid growth of Bombay ; for Lliat city is now in close touch with the Punjab, the Central Prov- inces of India, the Northwestern Provinces of Bengal, with Calcutta, and, in a word, with all parts of the peninsula. Unlike most cities, Bombay is not situated on a river. It is on one of a cluster of islands artificially connected with one another and with the mainland by cause- ways and railway viaducts. These islands thus connected now practically form a peninsula lying nearly north and south, and they have also created a harbor, which takes rank among the finest harbors in the world. Many thincrs have thus contributed to give Bombay its influential position among the cities of India, and even among the cities of the world. The modern European quarter is at the Apollo Bandar where many tourists land. At once upon landing the traveller is struck by the grand array of public buildings in this Eastern city. Not only are the individual buildings fine, but their general arrangement produces a marked unity of impression. What has been called a happy inspiration" has blended the Gothic and Indian schools of architecture. At the junc- tion of two thoroughfares are the Victoria Station and the new municipal oflfices. These are the largest buildings in Bombay. VM : i ',! 2C ) asa U t' 434 AROUND THK WORLD '* Ji :/. « if ill Before coiitiiuiing our tour throu^^hout the city it will be well for lis to familiarize ourselves somewhat with the interestiug history of this great city. We have already seen that the British secuicd their first possession in India on this island. Near the close of the fifteenth cen- tury it was conquered by the Mohammedans, and in 1530 it was ceded by them to the Portu- guese. It was conveyed to the English in 1661, as a portion of the dowry of Catharine of Bra- ganza, the Infanta of Portugal, before her mar- riage with Charles II. of England. He in 1668 transferred the island to the East India Company. In 1685 this company removed its chief presi- dency from Surat to Bombay, and held posses- sion of the island until 1859, paying for it an annual rental equivalent to fifty dollars. Partly as a result of the Indian mutiny and the con- sequent change in the method of Hindu govern- ment necessitated by that mutiny, the home government assumed direct control of all the British possessions in India. Bombay in this way came under the general government. The ancient portion of the city is still known as the fort. Its principal streets are wide, well-paved, and well-lighted, and they will compare very favorably with those of average British and American cities. In the native parts of the city the streets are narrow, but even there the sanitary arrangements have been greatly improved in re- cent years. Tramways are very common in Bombay, and a generous system of interchange tickets is in vogue. Carriages can be hired for !;;-'(' BOMBAY )Ut the irselves of this lat the ndia on ith cen- nedans, : Portu- n 1661, of Bra- er mar- in 1668 nipany. f presi- posses- •r it an Partly ;he con- govern- ; home all the in this L. The 1 as the l-paved, re very sh and the city sanitary :d in re- non in rchange ired for 435 ?? prices which to an American seem ridicnlously low. The entire city can be reasonably w^ll examined in a single day, although, of co irse, one could profitably spend much more time on this island. PuBuc Buildings.— The public offices, as already nnplied, are of unusual size and excel- lence. They really surprise a visitor from the Occident, and they succeed one another in re- markable regularity and in commendable unity of design. Close to the Esplanade Hotel, locally known as Watson's Hotel, is the Presidential Secretariat; then come the University Hall Library, and Clock Tower ; then the lavv courts' public works, post office, and telegraph offices. ' The Secretariat is four hundred and forty- three feet long, and each of its two wincrs is eighty-one feet long. Its style is the Venetian Gothic; a great window lights the staircase, and over It rises the tower to a height of one hundred and seventy feet. The Universitv Library and Clock Tower form really a grand pile. This building would attract attention in any city, either in America or in Eu.-ope. What is known as the Rajabai Tower, on the west side, is one of the most conspicuous buildings in the city, being two hundred and sixty feet high. It was the gift of Mr. Premchand Raichand, and was built in memory of his mother, Rajabai. The tourist cannot do better than get a view of Bombay from the top of this lofty tower. The Univer- sity Hall is a building iii the PVench Decorated ■ ,i V- ii ills i I f. 'ivi 4 Ii 'I; 'i^' if 't.:ij !'| ; r • r i til f 1 436 AROUND THE WORLD style. It also is noted for its size, beinj^ one hnndied and four feet long. The Conrts of Jus- tice are really an immense structure, beinj;' five hundred and sixty-two feet \ou^. The interior of these buildings is admirably divided for their various purposes. In one of the courts there is a carved teak gallery for the public, running around three sides. The ceiling is also of this same rich wood and the floor is of Italian mosaic. The Town Hall is in the Elphinstone Circle; it was opened in 1835, and was a very costly building. The Mint is close to the Town Hall, and though a plainer building, is one of excel- lent taste and simple beauty. The Victoria Sta- tion is the terminus of the great Indian Penin- s> la Railway. It occupies a conspicuous place and is considered to be not only one of the hand- somest buildings in Bombay, l)ut certainly the finest railway station in India, and one of the finest in the whole world. It is a vast building and is richly ornamented with sculpture and im- posingly surmounted by a great dome. Its style is the Italian Gothic with certain interesting characteristics. But time would fail to tell of the Municipal Buildings, the Custom House, and still (Hher buildings devoted to business and to municipal affairs. The Anglican cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Thomas, he being popularly supposed to be the apostle to India, stands close to the Elphinstone Circle. When built, in 1718, it was a garrison church, but was made a cathedral in 1833, when the See of Bombay was established. There are BOM HAY 437 here nionutneiils connected with the history of Bombay and of India. One is of special interest, that of Jonathan Duncan, who was governor for sixteen years. He exercised much influence in suppressin*,*^ infanticide in Benares and in other parts of India, and this monument represents him receivinon annual offerings for its support. Often visitors leave generous donations for the good work which is carried on at this asylum for animals. The yard and buildings cover at least two acres of ground. No animal receiving the care of this institution is ever killed. Too often in America injured animals are cast off to live or die, as chance may decide, without any care from their former owners. It may be said that all through the East remarkable con- sideration is given to animals, and although this consideration is unfortunate w'hen it is applied to poisonous snakes and other dangerous crea- tures, it is admirable when it is applied to do- mestic animals that have rendered long and ex- cellent se 'Mce. There are some things wdiich we of ci\"' ied countries may learn even from those whom we stigmatize as heathen. The Caves of ElEphanta. — I had read something of the caves of Ajunta, and of other caves in India, as well as of thosr of Elephanta, but no opportunity was given me to visit any other of the caves than those near Bombay. It was, therefore, with the greater zest that the visit to these caves was made. Elephanta is a h \i f '1 IIOMUAY 44' s\m\\\ Isktlct ajiout six miles from the Fort of tiombay, and steam launches can be hired which make the passaj^-e in about an hour. The natives call this place (kirapuri, mcanin<>- "the town of the rock"; or, accordingly to other authorities, " town of purification " ; or still others, " town of excavation." The natives call the caves Lcnem^ a word which probabl)- has reference to the fact that most of these caves were orimnallv used as places of retirement by reli j pi :!■■: 1 11.' 1 i' ^ i if' 1 '!■' I K^ !f "r 448 AROUND TIIK WORLD SO it was the last siglit on Indian soil which I enjoyed. Soon the ship was taken which bore nie to Aden, and so the journey homeward, which had already been jjc^un, was earnestly continued ; but never will the varied and channin<^ scenes of India, short though my visit was, be effaced from memory. XXXV Tin; ARABIAN SEA ^l/E now have to bid farewell to India. At tn,„i ^q'"' "•• .^"''"y, tlie thirteenth of Sep- was o take ns to our steamer wliieh lay in the 1 of ^hon "r, •'l" 'rf P'"^^^'' ■" """=! ™' snn'nW ,^ ''""' '"'■""^'■>-' "^ «Ple"dor and squalor, made an enduring impression nnoi "Mnd and heart. It ranks above eve Japa i ynastie; ^f''^^' «« ^aek to the ren.otcst fiyiasties. Its many rtnns captivate the fancy power ,V"°'"" "^^"^'^'' °f ''' P^°P'e "mkes a powerful nupression on the mind. No cue can doubt the great antiquity, the marvelous varieu" iz-ation. We owe much to her people for our knowledge of .science, philosophy, astrouom b en the'n. '"? "^ "''^""'- T'.e'sanskri° iu s i)cen the parent of many languages. India's Aryan people are really our own I^rSth^rs Now the ancient greatness of this historic country has passed away. Her lustre is din me ' ndif P T '""''"" '" superstition ; but fo; India a new day ,s dawning. Christian missions 2D 449 h \ 1 :li '. ) ' / i^'> li '•' ■?i 'f i'J ;■■ * , 450 AROUND TIIH WORM) arc caiisinj^ tlie lifj^ht of Christianity to shine over tliat ancient hind and that coniniinj^lcd civilization. Christianity will exalt the women of India from being the slaves or toys of men into a trne and noble womanhood. On the ruins of false faiths and departed civilizations Christianity will rear temples to the trne and living (iod, and will cause India to start on a \w\\ and nobler career of civilization. Farkwkij. to India. — From the deck of our steamer we had the last look on the lovely shores of Bombay. There is the suburb of Kolaba ; yonder the IMalabar Road ; there the ghats, or hills, rising back of the city and marking the scene of Wellington's conquest and of the de- feat of the Alahrattas. Here are English fathers and mothers on the deck of the ship bidding farewell to their sons and daughters who are going to Kngland or to Scotland for their education. These children were born in India, but they call Great Britain their home. Here also are a number of English- men and Scotchmen and a few Irishmen wlio are going back to their respective countries after having spent many years in India. They now love India. They will not feel at home in the land of their birth. Some who have completed their term of service, either in military or civil life, will be almost certain to come back to India to spend their closing years. They are con- scious of the mysterious charm which India al- ways exercises. Remarkable tenderness is shown shine inok'd VOlllCU )f men )n the '.ations le and t on a ot onr ' shores lolaba ; lats, or nj^ the the de- on the :ir st)ns d or to hildren Britain nglish- n who es after ey now in the pleted or civil o India e con- idia al- shown TlIK AKAIUA.N Si; A 45i by parents partinj.f with their chihhx'U and hy children j)artin<^ Wich their jiarents. The sliip moves ont of the superb liarl)or ind bay; city and hills j^raduall) fade into shadows and finally ('isappcar from sij^ht. Shall I ever see them ai^-^ain ? One can readily appreciate how onr American missi(,iiaries come to love India. With all its sins and sorrows, its super- stitions and \ '.ried forms of degradation, it is still an attractive conntr\ . We ari. now bound for Aden, the Red Sea, and a part of the Suez Canal. Onr voyage is one of three thousand miles across the Arabian Sea and through the Red Sea. Our company on board is made up of civil and military officers returning to Great Britain, and also bnsintss men and students returning to Great Britain. The writer was apparently the only tourist on board. He was traveling entirely ont f)f season and had been often almost the only guest in hotels in India ; the other guests, when there were any, were Anglo-Indians who were travel- ing on business. Among our passengers were Sir Comer Pletli- eram who, for a nnmber of years, has been chief justice of India. We also had Mr. Justice Nor- ris who, after a long period of service, has been placed on the retired list, and is entitled to a pension, and was returning to England in broken health. There was donlDt on the part of the physicians who were on board as to whether or not he would live to reach England. We also had Mr. Justice Gordon, who had rendered ex- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^ J^^4^. 1.0 I.I 1.25 " "" IIIIIM '- IIIIIM 1.8 1.4 1.6 6" V ^. e^.. ' ^>. ^'^^ ^ s>^ *^.^' Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WE3STER,N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 # ,\ \\ '9) 6^ '^:^ ^ ^^ 452 AROUND THE WORLD V ( ■ I , ''^i eel lent service in presiding^ over varions conrts in different parts of India. We had also a nnm- ber of military officers whose friendship I ninch enjoyed and whose information was greatly ap- preciated. There were other passengers who stand high in relation to the government of India and who exercise mnch inflnence in Great Britain in re- spect to its Indian possessions. It was my good fortnnc to sit at the same table with these jnstices and others fully informed on Oriental matters, and also to have frciquent and prolonged conver- sations with tlicxn regarding Indian affairs. For a part of the journey the sea was rough, and only a few passengers were able to be at the table or on deck. The writer had become so much accustomed to the sea that he had not the slightest tendency toward the dreaded mal de mcr. Our journey took us within twelve de- grees of the equator, and at times the weather was extremely warm and the nights correspond- ingly uncomfortable. Never did the stars seem brighter and more fascinating. They seemed, as I had elsewhere observed them, especially in the Hawaiian Is- lands, to be wonderfully near and to be strangely fraternal. They did not seem to be set in the brow of night, but rather to be lustrous pendants from the firmament. The Southern Cross was wonderfully bright and eloquently suggestive as I gazed upon it night after night in tlie clear at- mosphere characteristic of those tropical oceans. Marvelous is the beautv of those Southern skies. s>. Vj THE ARAIJIAN SKA 453 courts a iiiim- [ much itly ap- d hi^h nd who 11 in re- ly good justices matters, conver- rs. i rough, )e at the come so 1 not the mal de 'elve de- weather •respond- ,ud more :lse\vhere /aiian Is- strangely et in the pendants 2ross was gestive as e clear at- al oceans, lern skies. Fascinating are the constellations which flash out upon the observer. One can almost under- stand how the stars came to be objects of wor- ship. The mariner in Southern hemispheres beholds the Southern Cross with a sort of relig- ious reverence, and he valr.cs it as assisting him in measuring time and in guiding his course. Thus the ship glided day after day over the Arabian Sea. Sometimes it was simply a gently throbbing ocean, and at other times it was stiffi- cieutly rough to satisfy those who were ambi- tious to see a storm in the tropics. Aden. — On the sixth day after leaving Bom- bay we approached Aden. Here we were to be transferred to the magnificent steamer of the same line, from Australia on its way to London. It was expected that this steamer would be at Aden awaiting our arrival, but it was somewhat late, and we were obliged to wait for its arrival. Aden is an island, or more strictly, a rocky peninsula, on the southern coast of Arabia. It belongs to Great Britain, and it commands the entrance to the Red Sea. The area of the pe- ninsula is eighteen to twenty square miles. The entire peninsula is doubtless of volcanic origin. It has been called the "Gibralta. of the Indian Ocean." It enjoys perpetual sunshine. Tlie natives called it Aden, or Eden, because of its fine climate. Once it was little more than a barren rock, but now it has become a habitable place, having a population of over forty thousand of all nations under heaven, although it is given v\ \. V r li T 454 AROUND TIIK WOULD t' > ' l!,' up chiefly to British soldiers and British cannon. Aden is believed l)y some writers to be the place called Eden, in Kzek. 27 : 23, and the " Portus Romanus " of the Romans. It was known to the Romans, was possessed by the Arabs, and was captured from them by the Turks. Pliny the elder seems to have known the .lative name, and he calls it " Atliana." On his return from China, Marco Polo, the Venetian, visited Aden. He mentions the port as having been a place of trade with China. He and otliers speak of its riches and splendor. On the eighteenth of Feb- ruary, 1 5 13, Albuquerque, with twenty ships, sailed from India for the conquest of Aden. He succeeded in capturing- only a part of the town, and was finally obliged to withdraw. Various attempts were later made to capture tills city. It must at one time have been a place of great strength, as Marco Polo states that " the Soldan of Aden sent thirty thousand horsemen and forty thousand camels to tlie great help of the Saracens and the grievous injuries of the Christians," when the Soldan of Babylon went against the city of Acre, a. d. 1291. The British captured Aden from the Arabs on the sixteenth of January, 1839. Three times within a year after that, united Arab tribes en- deavored to retake the city, but were driven back with great loss. In 1846 a similar attempt was made, but it was readily repulsed. This attack was followed by many murders committed by religious fanatics whose zeal had been inflamed by the preaching of a religious war. In 1858 it TIIH AkAHIAN SKA 455 became necessary for the British to march against the Arabs, and they were ronted with serious loss. In 1865 attempts were made to blockade Aden on the land side, but these efforts were rendered futile by the vigorous defense of the Britisli troops. Other attempts were made in 1866, but since that time the Arab tribes have kept their treaties, and seem to be more friendly in all their relations to the British government. The town is at a considerable distance from the shore. It is really in the center of an ex- tinct volcano. Tall masts of wrecked ships are not unfrequently seen in the harbor of Aden. The Arab name, Bab-el-Mandeb, " The Gate of Tears," was given these straits because of the number of vessels which have been wrecked in these waters. The ships of the ancients were so poorly constructed that they could not navigate this dangerous channel without frequent loss of ships and life. The improvement in the con- struction of ships has greatly reduced the per- centage of loss in these recent years ; and yet within a few months after the writer passed through these straits, a stanch vessel, with nearly all on board, was lost. There was a proverb among seamen that no vessel under canvas can enter the Red Sea for six months of the year, and that during the other six months no vessel under canvas can go out of the Red Sea. This proverb is based on the fact that the winds blow here with great regularity in a certain di- rection for half a year at a time. We approached these straits with great caution. M 1 T 45^> AKOUN') TIM-: WORM) Souiulint;s were takcMi contiinially as tlic sliip slowly 1)us1k'(1 its way thnMij^li this cliaiint'l. At ccrtai'i points the water is very shallow and the steamer stirs np the nuul with its keel. No sooner had we reached the channel than scores of vSoniali boys surrounded the ship, shouting, as we heard them shout in many other places: "Have a dive? Have a dive? Ciood hoy, j^ood hoy." They sanj^ toj^ether, clappiuj^ their hands upon their sides as an accompani- iiieut lo their sonj^s. Many passenj^ers threw them small coins, and they immediately jumped into the water, the whole crowd struj^^lin^ to- oether to find the coiu. Soon they came up, one of them havinj; it held firmly in his teeth. Noth- in<^ could be seen for a time l)Ut the scores of feet stru<»,i;liug above the water as the boys were dis- appearing beneath the surface. One wondens that accidents do not oftener occur, as sharks and other ravenous fish are numerous here. The boy who fathers in the j^reatest number of shillinji^s is one who a few )cars a<»o had his le<^ bitten off by a siiark or some other fish. His brother plunj>cd in with a knife as the fish was uiakinjif off with the little fellow, killed the fish, and l)rouf^ht it arvd his wounded brother to the shore. You can buy the photograph of both at Aden. This little fellow is an expert swimmer ; and, no doubt, it was a great fiuancial ji^aiu for him to have had this struj^p^le with the shark even thouo^h he lost his lej>; in the conflict. Some of these boys will climb to the deck of the g^reat steamers whcu the officers are not looking, and M ) Till- AKAHIAN SKA 457 lie ship 1K>1. At [iiul tlic cl than L' ship, ly other (iood ln])pin]i*- )inpaiii- tlirew jiiinpcd linj4 to- ll p, one Noth- ; of feet ere dis- ^'oiulers rks and 1ie l)oy iillinj»-s ttcn off brother nakinj»- ;h, and ? shore. . Aden. r ; and, or him k even lome of z g^reat ur and will (live from the hiuhcst deek for a few pence, enjoyiiio it all the more because forbidden. These are straiiuc-lookin^r fellows. Their hair IS a sort of red. it seems to be dyed, by some means, and it is twisted into the oddest sort of curls. They seem to be almost amphibions creatures. Other natives came on board onr ship with the hope of selling shells, toys, le()i)ard skins, ostrich feathers, and other curiosities. vSome of these peddlers seem to be vSvrian Jews, dark almost as Arabs, but still possessiiij^r the unmistakable and inelTaceable Jewdsli ])hysio};- noiny. Their hair was in rin^dets, their stature was small, but the Hebrew characteristics could not be concealed, whatever the color and stature miorlit be. Aden is a hot, but not an nnhcalthful place. vSnakes and scorpions, however, are numerous. A stranrrc comminjrlinor of nationalities is seen in the bazaar in the afternoon. Here arc wild Arabs from the interior of Arabian Yemen. Here are Turks, K I'i 1 ! 1 U} ^ \" 'li i 1 1 1 ' 4r 1 460 AROUND TIIK WORM) ncntly occupiidlliis island. In 1513 Albncjuci que landed upon il and erected a j^reat cross tliereon, and named the island Vera Cm/. Later it was occupied for a time by pirates, but in 1799 posse.s- sit)n of it was taken by the Kast Indian Company. The lijHithouse on the highest point was com- pleted in i(S6i. The j;arrison of Aden sends a j^uard to this island to protect the lighthouses and coalinj^ stations. It is well known that enormous coral reefs run aloujT the coast of the Red Sea. They usually rise out of deep water and approach within a few feet of the surface. Between them and the east coast there is a navigable channel from two to three miles wide and there is a nar- rower channel on the west. It is claimed by those who have given careful study to the whole subject that the entire coast is in a course of up- heaval. In proof of this the books call attention to the fact that the former seaport of Adulis near Alassowa is now four miles inland. These are some of the facts which make navigation in this sea so dangerous. The tides also add to the danger, as they are very uncertain. At Suez, where they are most regular, they are seven feet high at spring tides and four feet at neap tides. During the months of July, August, and Sep- tember, northerly winds prevail and they drive a very great quantity of water out of the Red Sea. At the same time the southwest monsoon is blowing in the Indian Ocean, and the result is that the level of ti\e Red Sea is often three feet lower than during ihe cooler months of the year ; T K AkAIUAN SI«:A 461 diiriiior these latter months the nortlieast inoii- soon is blowinjj and it drives tlie water throu^^h the straits and into the Red Sea. These are facts which have their l)earinj^ npon the passaj^e of the chiUlren of Israel thron^h the northern arm of this sea. No doubt natural causes which still operate were employed by (iod in accom- l)lishinj^^ the miracle which gave deliverance to the children of Israel. i n *l • h ( I. 11 i; f r I U:- I- " ,t 4 Jl. I'' /^, , ,'^ < XXXVI THE RKD SEA WK continue to press our way through tliis sea. Why has it been called the Red Sea? That question has been frequently asked and to it no conclusive answer has been given. The lilack Sea is not a black sea, the Blue Danube is not a specially blue river, and the Red Sea is not a red sea. Some have said that it was called the Red Sea because of the presence of infinitesimal infusoria which at certain seasons give it a reddish appearance. Others, that the spawn of fish at certain times gave it this color in sections, and also caused a distinct odor to arise from it while the ships were passing through the affected portions. Perhaps a better reason is that along portions of the shore the mountains have a delicate pink hue or at times a reddish glare. The Hebrews called it Yam Suph, Sea of Weeds or Sedge. Captains of various ships and other authorities differ as to why the sea was called red. The fact is that they, as a rule, I'.ave not looked carefullv into the matter and cannot speak authoritatively on the subject. The early peoples in the neighboring countries called it " Yam Edom," as part of it washed the country of the Edomites, and the word Edom 462 'iMii-; ki;i) SKA 4^>3 nicans nd. Tlu' (lUrks, who borrowed the name from ihc IMKLiiicians, mistook it for an ap- pclative, instead of a proper name, and rendered it by (ireek words which mean Red Sea. luy- thrns means the same in (ireek that Ivdom does in IMuLMiician, red. This is, withont donbt, tlie trnc cxphmation. Its Ports and its Colors. — 'IMie extreme lenji^th of tlic Red Sea is al)ont one thoiisand fonr hnndred and fifty miles, its widtli varies from sixteen miles to two hnndred at its broadest part. Most interestinjv was it to remember that we were passing between Africa on the one side and Arabia on the other. Here we were skirt- ing the coast of Arabia Deserta. Here on the African shore at Asab and Obokh the French and Italians have settlements. Here was Mocha with its brijT^ht shininj^ minarets and its many snp^gestions of ^ood coflfce. Here also was Hod- eida with a popnlation of over thirty thonsand, a point at which European steamers often call. The bold headlands of Abyssinia were visible on our port side, and a ranji^e of Arabian moun- tains on the starboard side. Here was Jiddah, the seaport of Mecca, the resort of all pious Mohammedans. This is an important place, and is distant but sixty miles from Mecca. The population is said to be at least forty thousand. The town is enclosed by a wall with towers and on the sea face there are two forts. For this part of the world the town is well kept, although the native portions are 4()4 ARorNI) Tlllv WOUIJ) very poor. It is said tliat tlic native jjopulatiim is most laiiatical and that all luiiopcans must 1)0 extremely eaiefiil in their words and aets noi to arouse the religious hostility of these fanatieal people. The iCast };ate, or Mecea j^ate, of the town was formerly reserved for Mohammedans only. Ivur* eans now are permitted to use it, hut they mu>L preserve the utmost eaution while they are in so saered a neighborhood. In this town is theso-ealled tond) of Ivvc. It is a small moscpie, between two h .!^, low walls, one hun- dred and forty feet in lenj^th ; it is elaimed that the mother of us all is buried here. If this is her tomb and she occupies it all she must have been a j^ii;antic ancestress. This town was bom- barded by the Hritish in KS58. On a Sunday afternoon the writer had his first j^limpsc of the j^reat Sinaitic ranq^e. It was bathed in the soft pink lij^htof which mention has been made. There is a rujLj^jedness, a stran<>e auo-ularity, characteri/intr its dilTerent elevations. Perhaps not even in Switzerland arc such deli- cate shades of color and varied outline in form observed. All the richest shades on the Red Sea and its wonderful shores are seen in the eveniu'i^ ; then pink, oreen, blue, and purple de- lightfully l^lend. Tliese shades change a*^ain and attain as the evcninj^ approaches. At times as we coasted alon<^ the sliorcs of Nubia the wind from the land was like a sirocco. The writer has painfully distinct memories of the scorchinp^ re- ceived for at least two days while sailing through this sea. Tine Ri:i) si; A 4^>5 Olio of tlie iiiii>on;iiil ports of Arahiu on tlio Red vSca is Yciibo. This is tlu- poll of Mtdiiia which is Olio hiiiKhod and tliiity miles to tho oast. Ik'ic ;ilso is Suakiii, oiio of tho iiiipoitaiit towns on tlic wost side of tho Rod Soa. It is still an I{oypfian town, and is all that roinains to tho khodivo of tho vast vSondan provinoos.' Tho town of lioionico, founded !))• Ptoloniy IMiiladol- i)lins and called after his inothor, was i)assed. Hero is tile hoadland of Ras Bellas. It is opposite Yeiiho oi: the Arabian coast. There are also sev- eral other i)lacos nieiitionod in history which we do not stoj) to particiilari/.o. Close to tho soa is Johal oz-Zcit, " the INIoiiii- taiii of Oil." It is believed that pcti-donih exists in this vicinity, and tho IC^yptian j^ovornnieiit has spent lar^e siiiiis of iiionoy in the attempt to discover it. vSomc oil has boon found, but not in snfficioiit quantity to remniiorato the govern- ment for tho amoniit expended. The Red vSea at Ras Mohamnied is split by ♦he peninsula of vSiiiai into parts; one of these parts is called the gnlf of Suez, and is about one liundred and fifty miles loii<^v and from ten to oijrhteen miles wide; the other i)art is the oulf of /vkabali, and is about one hundred miles long, and from five to ten miles wide. Between these two anus ot the sea rises the peninsula of vSiiiai. What is known as Mount vSinai, according to popular tradition, is not seen from the sea, but the Sinaitic range is distinctly observed, as I .Since this, however, the Soiidnn has been reconquered by the British and Kgyptian forces under Lord Kitcliener. 21'; l,:,i,. I.: (•*• fi »t , If. 466 AROUND THE WORLD already stated. The traditional mountain is tliirty-seven ^»eograpliical miles distant and is hid by intervening mountains. We pressed on our way toward Suez, and soon a wonclerful change came over the atmosphere. It now became so cool that a light overcoat was very welcome. All mariners are glad when they complete their journey through this historic sea. Portions of it are enormously deep. Its shores, as already implied, are peculiarly dangerous be- cause of the coral reefs. Small Arabian vessels keep near the shore, as their captains are familiar with their soundings ; but the great ships keep nearly in the middle of the sea. European sail- ing vessels seldom attempt to navigate these dangerous waters. The color of the sea is a bluish-green, or greenish-blue. When the water becomes shoal the color is a pale green. The sea is very sensitive to the clouds, becoming of a dark indigo tint when certain clouds are re- flected in its bosom. Suez. — Suez derives its chief historic interest because it is supposed that near it the Israelites crossed the Red Sea under the guidance of Moses. INIodern investigation, however, places this event farther north. Two centuries ago Suez was only a small fishing station, but early in the nineteenth century lines of steamers began to run regularly from India to Suez. In 1857 a line of railway was completed from Cairo to Suez which at once grew in importance. In 1863 ^ canal was com- pleted which brought fresh water to Suez from I THE RKD SKA 467 itain IS and is nd soon )sphere. oat was en they )ric sea. shores, :ous be- i vessels Familiar ps keep tan sail- :e these ;ea is a le water 1. The niing of are re- interest sraelites f Moses, is event vas only leteenth sgnlarly railway at once as com- lez from the Nile. The work on the Snez Canal broncrht a large popnlation to the town, perhaps not fewer than fifteen thonsand ; but when the canal vyas completed the popnlation decreased, and now the place is largely deserted. The transfer of tlie mails to Ismailia also greatly injured Suez. Ihere is now a railway running to Ismailia and many passengers leave the steamer at Suez and go directly to Ismailia and Cairo by train. I preferred, however, to have some experience in sailing on the Suez Canal, and so remained on board the steamer. There are but few features of local interest in Suez. The landscape con- sists, for the most part, simply of sand and water, and signs of vegetation are rare. Waste and barrenness are characteristic of the place. The settlement of five centuries sprang into commer- cial importance, as we have seen, diirino- the building of the canal, but now it has reve-ted to Its early insignificance. The population is made up of Arabs, Maltese, Greeks, and Italians. Ihere is an Knglish hospital, and on theheiohts above the old town is the cM/^-/ of the khedlve. Those who have the time make an excursion from Suez to the wells of Moses, the " Ayun IMusa," or in the singular, " Ain Musa." These wells form an oasis surrounded with tamarisk bushes and palm trees. Dean Stanley calls it the " Richmond of Suez." It is a place of fre- quent resort for the people of Suez. Some Arabs and Europeans now live there, there being a few houses with gardens, fruit-trees, and vcoe- tables. One of the wells is built up of massrve K ■ ' 468 AROUND TIIK WORLD It ' % 4 '':'> ■'1 5.' ] ! : ■ ' A r ? ' i i masonry, and is doubtless of o^rcat a(>;e. These wells are associated by tradition with the spot where Moses and Miriam sang their song of triumph over the destruction of Pharaoh and his host. Bishop Hurst calls attention to the mountain on the west and standing back from the gulf of Suez. It rises like a great granite trident. He reminds us that it was here that Professor Palmer, of Oxford, was murdered a few years ago. A little time before his last visit, he made a tour through the Sinaitic peninsula and gave us the result in his volume entitled, " The Exodus of Israel." He was then in P^gypt in the service of the government helping to promote the Egyp- tian campaign, and to secure the aid and neu- trality of the wild and dangerous Sinaitic tribe. Unfortunately he carried with him a large amount of money. He was seized, blindfolded, and hurled down a precipice from the top of a moun- tain. His murderers were condemned to death, and were taken to different places and executed. Thr Great Canal. — The Suez Canal vas opened in 1870. Its length is put down in round numbers as one hundred miles. From Suez to Ismailia it tends to the west, but between Ismailia and Port Said, a distance of about forty-two miles, it runs due north and south. This canal has changed populations and, to some degree, civili- zations along its shores and in contiguous towns. It is nominally under the control of the French, but as a matter of fact a large amount of the stock THK RKD SlvA These the spot song^ of I and his lountaiii : gulf of ■nt. He Pahiier, aj^o. A e a tour i us the xochis of service le Egyp- iid iieu- ic tribe. amount ed, and a nioun- deatli, towns. Prench, le stock 469 is owned by Great Britain. There was an effort made some time ago to open another canal run- ning nearly parallel. The present canal was not and is not of suffi- cient size to accommodate the traffic; but it has been widened and straightened at points, and probably no other will for some time be opened. Its width at the water line where the banks are low is three hundred and twenty-eight feet ; in deep cuttings, one hundred and ninety feet ; at the base, seventy-two feet ; and its depth IS twenty-six feet. Stations are frequent on its banks and tr .ffic is regulated by what is known on railways as the block system. Additional sidings are yearly constructed and navigation is thus greatly facilitated. Vessels pass through in the night as in the daytime, electric lights being numerous, and no vessel must sail more rapidly than six miles an hour. Entering the canal Sunday night at Suez we were early the next morning at Ismailia. Here I was met by a steam launch which bore me to the shore. No other passeiv.ers left the steamer at this point. The weather was most cool and coinfortable, and I much enjoyed the fresh air of the morning. I was up quite early so as to get a g impse of the Bitter Lakes before I should leave the steamer. These lakes are the ancient gulf of Herceopohs. There is at the north and south ends of the chief lake an iron lighthouse Some writers state that the passage of the Israel- ites was through this lake. The town of Sera- peum, named from the supposed remains of a fi I ;* ',,1! m 470 AROUND THK WORLD temple of Serapis, was in this vicinity. Lake Tinisali, or the Lake of the Crocodile, is in the vicinity ; and it is affirmed by some anthorities that the Red Sea once extended to this lake. Jnles Verne, in his unique way, tells us that there is a subterranean passage uniting the Red Sea with the Mediterranean Sea, and in the same spirit he tells how certain fish were caught and marked with rings, then thrown into the Red Sea, and that these fish afterward were found in tlie Mediterranean. There may be more fact than fancy in his suggestion. It is not impossible also that the Red Sea and the Mediterranean Sea were married long before the completion of M. de Lesseps' great enterprise of opening the Suez Canal. There are places of interest on the canal from Ismailia to Port Said, but these I did not have the opportunity of see- ing. Ismailia is a town of perhaps four thousand population, and much of the business that once was done in Suez is now done in Ismailia. As a rule, mails and passengers for Egypt are landed here. The road which leads from the landing- place crosses the Fresh Water Canal and is lined with acacia and other trees. There are in Ismai- lia quarters occupied by Greeks, by Italians, by Arabs, and by other nationalities. The resi- dence of the khedive was used as a military hos- pital when the English occupied the town in 1882. One house, which is pointed out to all visitors, belongs to M. de Lesseps. There is a garden in which there are objects of interest « .,!'[;' .1 THE RED SEA 471 Lake ^ in the liorities ake. us that the Red in the : caught nto the :d were may be I. It is and the ;fore the rprise of ►laces of )rt Said, y of see- Ihousand lat once lia. As e landed landing- is lined n Ismai- ians, by le resi- ary hos- own in t to all ere is a interest taken from historic towns in different parts of Egypt. Ismailia was really founded in 1863, that it might serve as the center for the administration of the work on the Suez Canal. This work was begun simultaneously at Suez and at Port Said. The canal was named after the khedive. The favorable situation of Ismailia, on the northern shore of Lake Timsah and on the railways lead- ing from Alexandria and Cairo to Suez, seems likely to make the town permanent and to en- able it to become a place of considerable im- portance. A Glance at Egypt. — Although I had now been in many countries, I must say that the realization that I was really in Egypt, that country so associated with biblical, mythical, and classical story, gave me at least a mild sen- sation. Egypt, as we all know, is a large and most important country. It long has been a dependency of the Turkish empire, bounded by the Mediterranean on the north and by the Red Sea on the East. Egypt proper extends south to the first cata- ract of the Nile, and west beyond the oases of the Libyan Desert to the frontier of Barca. The rule of the viceroy, however, has been ex- tended over a vast region to the south, officially called the Soudan, and comprising Lower Nubia, Dongola, Kardofan, Khartum, the provinces of the White Nile, and since 1865 also the coasts of the Red Sea to the seaport town of IMassowah. 472 AROUND THK WORLD ^;^l ii ( i ' M V ,■ n t ' '1 ill ..: Including all this territory, the area of the Kgyptian empire is estimated to be seven hun- dred and thirty thousand square miles. It is difficult, however, to speak with certainty re- garding the area, as all depends on what is meant by the Egyptian empire and upon the exactness of the terminology employed. Some extend the empire until it embraces one million square miles, and contains a population of at least eleven million. The fertile portion of the country is the plain of the river Nile. Every year in June this river rises and overflows its banks, the receding waters leaving the land covered with mud. This river is an indescribable benediction to this great country. The trade of the country is largely in cotton, wheat, and sugar. It gave one no little pleasure to realize that he was on the soil of Egypt, which was once the most powerful kin/^- dom on the globe. In this land there are still wonderful ruins of temples and other great buildings. I was obliged to spend the forenoon in Ismailia, as the train for Cairo did not start until one o'clock in the afternoon. About that hour I started for the attractive city of Cairo. For a time there was nothing but barren sand hills on both sides of the train as we journeyed on- ward. We made a brief stop at Tel el-Keber. Here the English fought the battle with Arabi Pasha which virtually closed the campaign in Egypt. All about us were still evidences of the war which had taken place. One of my travel- THK RKD SKA 473 in<^ companions had been a soldier in that catn- ])aign and had participated in that closing battle. He gave thrilling details of the night march, of the sndden arrival, and of the nnexpectcd open- ing of the battle. There is the cemetery whose modest white stones mark the last resting-place of many brave soldiers nnknown to fame, bnt who gave their lives for qncen and conntry. No great nionnmental shaft marks their graves, but life was as dear to tlif n, and their death was as sad to those who loved them, as the life and death of the most honored generals of great wars and heroic battles. Soon we reached the region where the Nile is seen and its beneficent effects are produced. My first sight of the Nile gave no small degree of pleasure. All about us were rich fields care- fully cultivated and laden with bountiful pro- ducts of various kinds. Cotton raising is now an important industry in Egypt. There are cer- tain kinds of cotton grown in that conntry whose fiber is finer, it is said, than that of the cotton of any other land. The old methods of cultivating the soil are still practised. Here are small herds of brown buffaloes, and here peasants are irrigating the fields with buckets and using the shadoof. In- stead of the sterile fields all now is green and smiling ; on every side we see beautiful rural pictures. We are now approaching Zagazig. This town is in considerable part an outgrowth of the building of the Suez Canal. Here we see Frenchmen, Englishmen, Arabians, and rep- >j T 474 AROUND THP: world II I ', ' ■M '! i. 'i'-<« resentatives of many other nationalities. We are liasteninj^ to Cairo. Wonderful tliou,nro.,f, "o „• •'>.■..,;„,. a part of tl,o sacred c.lillce is ,e toiMl,. 1 la- „ios<,i,c- !•; l-Azhar is well known for "s s.vn,n,etr,ca! architecture, an.I fo a cZt '> vvlMch hun,lre,ls of stn.lents resort cohi'" ■"."I .that this collcffo rs the ^reat center of A al„c st,„Iy an,l of the Arabian lite at , re 1 ic n,os,|ne of Tulnn. was fo„n,le,l in a i X^o quarter ,s always a point .If interest IraT e of IK- ancent Christian church fonu.l he e a, hccause o the tradition that Mary an.I -ose M. the tn ant Jesus resided in t1,at vicin y I.el' rr.uk quarter is the library of the l^yp: a Society There are also Protestant and Cathohc charuable institutions in Cair., I h" I .0 opportnu.ty of seeinjr a part of the wo?k «lo"o by an Au.erican reliK.ions society At certain seasons of the year Cairo is nUe.l with liritons and Americans. Knglisl, is e spoken ,1, all the hotels and is often heard e puMrc streets. Now Kreuch is ,>ract cal l.e lauKuage of trade and of social life. ? euch s .spoken everywhere. Cairo strikes oi e as 'e.ng to an nnn.sual degree like Paris havu/a large nniuberof „y/.,. „n the streets aid ,a^,;' other suuilar features. In the hotels the "1^ /' i 1 1 Mi , pwHt^'i 480 AROUND THE WORLD newspapers in English, French, German, Greek, Italian, and Arabic. This is truly p cosmopolitan and polyglot city. One must visit Boolak and Musr el-Aatik. This name is given to distinguish the town from Cairo proper. This suburb is called Fostat, and sometimes by Europeans, Old Cairo. From Fos- tat a canal runs through Cairo, which probably formed a part of the ancient canal connecting the Nile with the Red Sea. It contains among its ancient buildings one structure called the "granary of Joseph." It is interesting to know that this building is still used as a storage of grain. On the island of Roda, which quietly nestles in the bosom of the river, is the celebrated Nilo- metcr. This is a rude method by means of a graduated column for indicating the height of the Nile during its annual overflow. The Nilo- meter is very old, just liow old no one may at- tempt to affirm. This island is reached by a ferry-boat and here the courteous, and doubtless veracious, gardener will point out the exact place where IMoses was rescued by the king's daughter. We saw here also specimens of the henna plant, from which comes the dye in which the dragoman and many other men and women dip their finger-nails and the palms of their hands. A visit to the Shoobra palace, in the vicinity of Cairo, gives the opportunity of enjoying a charmingly beautiful drive through an avenue of svcamore and lebbcc. This is one of the Vf ^i<0, "THK VICTORIOUS" 481 niost favorite cirive.7^rdd^;;;rand ^^ts in the evening, twilight. Here every sty^e o c. nage may be met. Here the hKlieJof Uie Inrem are supposed to ride at tinio^ '^•,p;/''^ ^''^^^"i . g garde„s and tl,e apartments of l,e '.Uace Ijoolnl M %.yPt'an antiquities in the Boolak Museum carries the mind back to t e age of the great Cheops. There are tn the dif bridge and H,", ^" '^' remarkably fi„e iron onciore, and then drive over a level rr^n.i n t>irnctnres. I was well prepared bv nil T 1,0^ .ead and heard to meet as '^^ a^lUed he as cay Arabs who make life a burden to a 1 who" visit tlie pyramids. They wait to beo- to as sist, or to steal, and perhaps to n.nrde; if tlfe" opportunity afforded. For' a few pennies t S.riin^:;re3T"aTt"''^ lias been tested rdtSf-it doe^l^'S,^?' '^ aDDronrli^r! 'Ti ^" ^^ ^^^ro was approached. They were seen also from the cit- adel as one looked ont over the city,-the plain, 21' ' h )' I '.■ 'I V, / ij: ii 482 AROUND THE WORl.D the river, the Mokattam Hills, nnd then the pyramids, ten miles distant. We know thai pyramids are fonnd in Persia, India, and Mex- ico, but the most celel)rated are those of Egypt. They are built of blocks of stone so large that the builders must have had some unknown ma- chinery for lifting them into their position. Their outside, doubtless, was covered with smaller stones and cement so as to form a smooth sur- face ; but this surface is now broken, leaving the stones like stairs on which one can readily climb. The largest pyramid, that of Cheops, is four hundred and fifty feet higl; and was formerly at least thirty feet higher than at present. The others are smaller, but equally synnnetrical, though not so imposing. Many statistics might be given regarding these wonderful structures, but it is not difficult to become possessed of these facts if one desires them. What is the impression which they produce? They certainly are large and very old. There they stand upon the border of the desert exhibiting the folly of the monarchs who built them to perpetuate their fame. Mr. Ballou well says that they are " symbols of ancient tyranny and injustice, tears and death." The builders erected them to make their own names immortal, and now the names of these builders are unknown ; there is a little doubt even as to the purpose for which they were erected. Some say that it was to prevent the sand from blowing in upon the land. Others that they were erected as great granaries. Others that they were built for as- lien the )w that d Mex- Egypt. ge that ►wn iiia- . Their sinaller Dth sur- /inpr the Y climb. is four iierlv at t. The letrical, s might iictiires, ;ssed of "odiice ? ^'e they libitiiig !iem to 11 says my and erected :al, and cnown ; Dose for t it was )on the s great for as- CAIRO, "T.iK VICTORIOUS" 483 tronomical purposes ; and still other7 that thcv were intended to be great tombs. Doubtless, tlie last IS the corred supposition, but thev have really failed of their puipose. ^ rhey Illustrate no genius in design or execu- tion. Given time enough and money enough and Americans to-day could erect far more nias.'ive s nic tures They exhibit no art, and no taste and they have no religious significance. They are illustrations of gigantic folly and unpardon- able ambition. They are simply vast piles of stone without proofs of architectural skill or artistic genius, or religious emotion. When you Have said that they are big and that thev are od,you have said all that really can be said. Mr. Ballon has well remarked that in the cave temples of Elephanta, Ellora, and Carlee, in the Idolatrous Hindu temples of Madura, Tanjore and Trichinopoly, the shrines of Cevlon the pagodas of China, and the temples of Nikko there is some thought of an elevating sentiment a grandand reverential idea, a suggestion of re- ligious instinct .md aspiration ; buHn the pyra- mids we have only an embodiment of personal pride which ended without accomplishing a worthy ambition. ^ ^ All histories relating to these vast structures aie involved in doubt. Some claim that Egypt was seven thousand j-ears old and was a great and prosperous nation before the building of these monstrous monuments, but no one can speak with authority touching any of these mat- ters. In the smallest of the three pyramids l!^' r ■*.■ I u 484 AROUND THE WORLD that of Mycerinns, a inunimy of a liuniaii being was found vvliicli can now be seen in the British Museum. Many romantic stories are told of the beautiful Egyptian princess who erected this pyramid, but all these stories are mere tradi- tions, and they furnish no satisfactory evidence regarding the time when, the persons by whom, or the purposes for which these great structures were erected. The Sphinx. — The sphinx, however, is worthy of careful study during repeated visits. No one who has ever seen that calm, majestic face and figure can forget either. A few liundred feet from the pyramids stands this colossal mystery. The Arabs call it " The Pother of Terror." Its body and mos*^^ of its head has been hewn out of a solid rock where it stands. The paws and body of an animal are represented with the head and bust of a human being. Tlie face is said to be thirty feet long and fifteen feet wide. Per- haps this mysterious figure is much older than the pyramids. It would seem as if it formed part of an ancient temple and perhaps between the lion-like paws of the sphinx there was an altar or sanctuary. Many archaeologists believe that human beings were once offered between these paws as sacrifices to some divinity. It was a striking thought of a modern painter to place here the child Jesus, and Joseph and Mary. For thousands and thousands of years this strange figure has looked out on the sand of the desert. Its face is now mutilated, showing the CAIRO, "THK VICTORIOUS" 485 furrows of time and of stornisTbutTtirfthe^sad, mystic peaceful, fascinating expression remains. One who has seen the bronze image of Dai-Butsu, at kamakura 111 Japan, cannot but observe tlie similarity in expression on the countenances of these two figures, and also in the strange fasci- nation which both exercise upon the beholder Dynasties have risen and fallen ; republics have danced into light and died into shade ; and all the vvhile this mystic, majestic figure, defaced, crumbling in parts, has looked out in its calm: s^ofTg;;:^''^ "^' "''^^"^^ ^" '''' ^--^ &> F^^>fei"i. ^diro. It is a town of inanv manufactures, and a central station of the over- land route to India. Once there were here slave markets, and although the trade is prohibited in the Ottoman Empire, it is said still to be carried on clandestinely in Cairo. There is a lucrative trade 111 precious stones and jewelry. H-re Italian, French, Greek, Armenian, and other ad- venturers, are found. Here immense caravans assemble annually to make the pilgrimage to One sees in Cairo Egyptian women of great beauty, but also giving evidence of their de- graded condition. Among them education is vi ^ ""known. They have no intellectual lite. A Mohammedan who can afford the ex- pense is permitted to have at least four wives • he may have many more, but the children of ' H r I'l ' '!», •'t I li I 1 iri^ii i 486 AROUND TIIK WORLD four are considered Icfritiinate. Walking alonji; tlie streets and lookinj^ up at the overlianj^ing balconies, one can well inia<;ine the life wliicli the women of the harem live. Occasionally it was possible to o;et a «^limpse of some of them as they were stealin<*- glances between the lattices. Here as ehsewhere in cities where ]\Iohamme- dans abound, the muezzin is heard calling the faithful to their prayers. Wonderful are the street cries which one hears in Cairo. The water carrier with a skin slung over his shoulder shouts: " God's gift, limpid water ! " Another cries : " Oh, figs, Oh, believers, here are figs ! " Still another shouts : " Oh, woman, to the left ! " And to the peddler of eggs he calls : " Oh, eggs, out of the way ! " And the beggar never fails, with a strange mingling of authority and humil- ity, to say, " Oh, Christian, backsheesh ! " If you give him a generous amount your dragoman will tell you tliat he is asking all sorts of bless- ing from Allah for yourself and all your relatives ; but if you refuse him, yoii may know that he is calling down Allah's curses upon you and your family for several generations. Most interesting was it in Cairo to see British officers riding through the streets, and at the citadel to see British soldiers everywhere on guard. I confess that it gave me genuine pleas- ure to see our British brethren in charge of this ancient city and land. Britain has a foothold in Egypt, and she will not be likely soon to retiie from that land of the Pharaohs. Wherever Britain goes, law, order, liberty, and religion 'it CAIRO, " rilK VICTORIOLS" 487 ig along lianging e wliicli anally it thciii as lattices, •haninic- liiig the are the 3. The ihoiilder Another I figs ! " le left ! " >1^, eggs, er fails, 1 hiimil- ' If vou agonian )f bless- ^latives; lat he is lid your British [ at the liere on le pleas- ! of this thold in :o retire 'herever religion also go. Speaking of the citadel, it seems strange enough to be shown about those ancient walls bv tho.se British officers. Marvelous is the view trom the wall of this citadel. Below is the city with Its countless minarets, its domed mosques Its squares, and its terraced roofs. Yonder stretch' the plains of lower Egypt. Here are the tombs ot the Mamelukes; there the lonely column of Heliopolis, the famous " City of the Sun." In the distance is the land of Goshen where the sons of Jacob fed their flocks; there the mysteri- ous Nile, the island of Roda, and beyond the pyramids rising in their unique grandeur and glory. A1.EXANDRIA.— Too soon I had my last view ot that great historic and mysterious citv of Cairo. In order to save time I went by night train to Alexandria, whence I was to sail for Palestine. Leaving Cairo at eleven, I reached A exandna before six the following morning ihe night was cool. A strange change had come over the weather, and an overcoat was worn from the time we reached Suez, after the great heat of the Red Sea, until I reached Jop- pa ; and even an overcoat required to be sup- plemented by a heavy rug, in order that comfort inight be enjoyed while the night ride was taken trom Cairo to Alexandria. Tliere was time to see something of this inter- esting city before the steamer sailed shortly before noon for Joppa. We know that this city was founded by Alexander the Great, 332 b c kl ' I Ml!! :1| If! ' r '/rf^ /I if . l^ v> 1 . !■ 11 I;.' 488 AROUND Tin<: WOUIvD He laid it out in scuiarcs, and in the center where tlie streets met was his own niansolenni. His l)ody was enihahned in a coffin of pure gold, and wlicn that coffin was stolen, an alabaster coffin was used. The whole world is familiar with the island of Pharos on which was built, by Ptolemy Philadelphus, the famous lij^hthousc which was called one of the wonders of the world. We know that it was a larj^e square tower of white marble, and that on its top fires were always burning-, which became a guide for mariners far out at sea. A great mole or pier was built from the city to the Pharos, and thus two harbors were formed. The whole world knows also of the royal palace, the great theatres, and the vast library of Alexandria. This library was said to contain four hundred thousand volumes ; but we know that our method of reckoning the number of volumes would greatly reduce this total. Julius CcEsar burned the library of the museum when he besieged Alexandria. Cleopatra afterward added the library of the kings of Pergamos which Mark Antony gave her, and finally this library was said to contain seven hundred thous- and volumes ; but, as already suggested, their method of reckoning volumes was different from ours. Each part of a book was called a book at that day. For four hundred years this city re- mained the center of learning. The Serapeum, or temple of Serapis, with the exception of the capitol at Rome, was said to be the most magnificent building in the world. But >i CAIRO, "TIIK victorious" 489 r where 11. His dUI, and ;r coffin ar with uilt, by hthonsc of the I square top fires uide for : or pier ind thus he royal t library 3 contain ^ve know limber of Julius im when terward erganios ally this ed thous- ed, their ent from book at s city re- with the aid to be rid. But i Tlicodosius pave orders to destroy all h'\it1ien temples in the Roman Umpire, and the Christians of Alexanch'ia tore down the vSerapenm. The Romans l)ecame masters of Alexandria 30 n. c, bnt the city retained its j;reatness tnitil Constantinople was made the cai)ital of the empire. Alexandria lost her Kast Indian trade when the passaj^e to India was made by sailing round the Cape of (iood Mope. Since the open- ing;- of the Suez Canal considerable trade and traveling have gone to Alexandria. Its popula- tion is perhaps not less than two hundred and fifty thousand. The new city is in the mole between the old city and the island of Pharos. I drove through the streets and had the oppor- tunity of visiting the column known as Pompey's Pillar ; it ought, however, to be called Diocle- tian's Pillar, as it was erected in his honor when he took Alexandria, A. d. 296. It is a Corin- thian column of red granite, nearly one hundred feet high. Some suppose it was originally a column of the Serapeum. Near the shore formerly stood the two obelisks, called Cleopatra's Needles. This was merely a fanciful name, as Cleopatra was guiltless of any relation to them. For at least one thousand two hundred years they had stood in front of the temple of the sun at Heliopolis. From that an- cient city Julius Caesar brought them to adorn his ov/n temple, which was called the Csesareum. Mehemet AH gave one of them to the British government, and in 1877 it was taken to Lon- don. Ismail Pasha gave the other to the United ri I*! ' i.l ' ( I! ' r I II 490 AROUND THK WORM) vStatcs, and in 1S80 it was taken to New York City, and lo-day it stands in onr Central I'ark. Alexandria is still a busy city. Its harbor is fdled with vessels representing; many nations, and its docks j^ive evidence of a brisk trade in many commodities. It will d'^ubtless increase in importance with K^^ypt's enlarj^in^ prosperity. My visit in Kj^ypt was qnite too short. There was no opportnnity to ^o np the Nile or to see the conntry beyond the Pyramids, bnt a very considerable amonnt was seen in the limited time at my disposal. Near noon of Wednesday, the twenty-tifth day of September, 1H95, we pnshed ont into the sea, this wonderful Mediter- ranean, alonj; whose shores rose and fell the civ- ilizations of many ccntnries and many nations. He who writes the history of the IMediterranean Sea will, to a great degree, write the history of the hnman race in its varions conflicts, dishonors, and defeats, on the one hand, and its trinmphs and glories on the other. A marvelons volnme it would be, could one write the history of that sea whose very name. Mid-earth Sea, indicates the place which it held in the thought of men and has held in the affairs of the globe — Med- iterranean, the center of the earth. Alexandria fades from sight ; its towers, minarets, and light- house finally disappeared from view. Palestine, the land of patriarchs and prophets, came before \\><. Wonderful thoughts filled the soul as its shore was approached. In the author's volume, entitled " Sunday Night Lectures on The Land and The Book," he gives an account M li-i CAIRO, "TIIK VICTORIOUS" ;w York Park, larhor is nations, trade in increase )sperity. There »r to see a very limited Inesday, S95, we ^lediter- the civ- iiations. rranean ^tory of ilionors, iumphs vol n me of that id i Gates of men — Med- fcandria d light- ophets, led the uthor's ires on iccount '/ ♦ \ 5 11 if'-: ■ I 4 I,' :■■( i 'I ' , CHAPTER XXXVIII f, ''»' ...«' '(' i> "THE ISLKS OF GREECE" IT will scarcely be doubted that picturesquely, historically, classically, aud biblically, the Greciau Archipelago is one of the most interest- ing regions on the surface of the globe. Perhaps the Japan Inland Sea, considered simply with reference to its picturesqueness, will compare favorably with the ^gean Sea ; but in the other particulars named the latter very far surpasses the former. ! ■ ) Oriental Passengers. — It was a motley group of passengers which filled the decks of the steamer on which we sailed from Beyrout for Constantinople. Many of these passengers se- lected small squares in the second class portions of the deck, and surrounded these squares with curtains made of shawls and various materials, thus forining the enclosed space into miniature seraglios. Among these passengers were Rus- sians, Greeks, Italians, Egyptians, Syrians, and representatives of various other nationalities. It was a strange allotment of bags, bundles, and people of many nationalities, heaped indiscrimi- nately togetlier. Among them were some pashas who with 492 THE ISLES OK GKEECE 493 lrLT7 'I"*"""-''' "'^'^^ '■'^'■'' •■el.,rni„g fro,,, f5>r,a to Co,!sta,it„,ople. So„,e of these officials s.lk a„cl other expe,i.s,ve materials. Their hi.^lilv colored r„gs, c.,sl„o„s, a„d robes adde of the l,are„i wo,ne,i seems to be ii,erelv "sZ^S/'lf *'"'•' '""'' ""Sht be described diW; , ' Tf ? '^'^'■"S °f indescribable disgust as one watched the conduct, and listened to tie remarks of scne of these wo,uen. Whole families of the better class of second class passengers were within these conipLtme its formed by cords and hangings. Ueil wo„!e„ and children seenied to be prontiscuousi; ^wde i n to these extemporized eompartinents. Sonie otthem seemed to be sca-siek in family group- J lie sights and sonuds were not condudve to coinposure, even on the part of those who we e ::ir' w"'' '° "'^ ^^^^^rons effects of ocea.t travel. Women with and without x-eils wcTe somewhat indiscri.ninately associated, so'iiie o1 hlZ '"!,"'"? '''■'^S:y silk trousers andgayly em- broidered jackets. ° ' ^ anJothtr^nr '^"'''c' °'^""'-' f™'" Dauiasens H lonii ,?rlf' '" ^^'I"" >•«'•"•»">? to Constan- tinople. With some of these I formed a travel- ' 1 N . 1 494 AROUND THE WORLD •I I' :p. pit- 't I /'f l'-^.^' (Ill Ijf. f M 1J| f*l m "' , '- ' ,\ h.V I :■ *' i, ing acquaintance, and found them to be well-in- formed and really agreeable gentlemen. All spoke French, and some English with accuracy and a few with elegance. The Moslems are devout, according to their conception of devout- ness, wherever they may chance to be. They spread their prayer-carpets on the deck, and serv- ants and masters together repeat their prayers at the appointed hours witli the customary kneel- ings and prostrations. One who has never gone over a bit of sea in the Orient can form but little conception of the commingling of nationalities, bright-colored garments, varied social customs, and religious faiths, seen on the deck of one of these Oriental steamers. A volume might be written on i]:vr> part of the journey alone. Historic Places. — It is impossible to exhaust the associations, biblical and classical, which gather about these isles of Greece. It is neces- sary, however, in the brief space at our com- mand to speak with brevity of places so replete with interest. North of us, as we started in the journey, were Seleucia and the ever-memorable Tarsus, the birthplace of the matchless Paul. We passed quite near the famous island of Cyprus. This island has become especially in- teresting to Americans in these recent years because of the relation to it and America of M. Cesnola. Cyprus is known to the Turks as Kybris. Its breadth is from sixty miles to five, from north to south, and it is about one hundred THE ISLES OF GREECE well-in- 11. All ccnracy ;ms are devout- They id serv- lyers at ^ kneel- ■ sea in tion of colored iligious )riental on tlr"s exhaust which 5 neces- r coni- replete '. in the lorable aul. and of ally in- : years Lof M. irks as to five, undred ________ 495 and fifty miles long. Its population Ts^ perhaps two luiiidred thousand, but is said to have been one million when under the rule of Venice balamis, modern name Koluri, is chiefly remem- bered because of the great naval battle there be- tween the Greeks and the Persians, 480 b c Its ocation can be traced by the ruins of its founda- tions and buildings. Paphos was seven miles and a lialf to the northwest of old Paphos. The goddess of the island was Venus, here called L.ypria. Perhaps there was no place in which iier worship was more luxurious and abominable than at Paphos. Her temple at this place was famous for its wealth and for the splendor of all Its appointments. Here where superstition was so common and sin so fascinating, Christianity was to be estab- ished. Here the beautiful creations of Greek art liad ministered only to evil passions ; but here the truth as It IS in Christ was to be proclaimed, and a Christian civilization was to be created. At Uiis island the civilizations and religions of the East and West came face to face ; here barbar- ism and civilization met. Here Greek and Oriental idolatry came largely into union and into conflict. A century ago, manv interesting busts, coins, medals, and bowls were discovered on this island ; but within the last quarter of a century Cesnola has made discoveries which have surprised the world, enriched America, and immortalized himself. Pressing on our way from Cyprus, we soon had ^eiga in Pamphylia on our right. The word ' f ■PV VI 'li. ' '^; i • I) i: ! til- " \r Iff l!-!l'- 4 ;jtl I J 1 1' r fill''' 496 AROUND tup: world Pampliylia signifies, All-tribe-land. It is said that the inhabitants here, althongh principally of Greek extraction, were a medley of many nationalities. It would have been most inter- esting and instructive had time permitted to visit all the towns of Asia Minor made famous in New Testament history. North of us were Lystra, Iconium, Antioch of Pisidia, and Derbe, On our left lay the island of Crete which is at the front of the ^gean group. It is now called Candia, but the Turkish name is Kyrid. The island is one hundred and sixty miles long, and varies from thirty-five miles to six miles wide. It has a population of perhaps three hundred thou- sand. This island in ancient times was prosperous to a large degree. It gave birth to the legislator Minos, whose laws largely shaped the civilization of Greece. The natives of Crete were celebrated as archers. References to the character of the Cretans by many authors agree with the quota- tion which the Apostle Paul gives us from one of their own poets : " The Cretans are always liars, evil beasts, slow bellies." This quotation is supposed to be from the hymn on " Jove," by Callimachus ; but it is said that he was not a Cretan, and there is much doubt both as to him and the reference which he makes. It is a com- mon opinion to this hour that the Cretans are the very worst people in the Levant. The repu- tation of these islanders to-day is thus in har- mony with the allusion which Paul makes to the character which they bore in his day. To us the chief interest in this island is its THE ISLES OF GREECE : is said iiicipally 3f many )st inter- litted to e famous us were d Derbe. lich is at )w called id. The ong-, and wide. It red tliou- osperous eoislator ^ilization ^lebrated er of the le quota- Tom one e always quotation [ove," by as not a is to him is a com- stans are riie repu- s in har- :es to the nd is its ^______ __497 connection with Paul's voxaoTto^TtVK^ w; tnnl 1 u "^ °[ "'^ '"'a'"'- '-"«! tliey finally took shel er at a place called Fair-Havens Co„^ to reacli Phoenice, a more coniniodious Inrbnr on the western part of the island. Wl le at tempting to reacli this harbor they we.V crK-en by fnnonswnds and wrecked on^the inland o" thei'r'lw-'J," C''"^"«"^of Crete rose against It's" same T,^ I- r'"^ "'" "'■"°^' anxiety to „m K Tuikish masters. Wliat the result w.ll be „o one may attempt to prophesy bnt s sa e to say ,„ a general ^ay that the power o the "nnspeakable Turk" will before lo^^ be broken ,f not destroyed, in almost every comitrv over winch he exercises his abominabk sway. '^ Rhodes.— Soon we were at Rhodes wber^ onr ship made a considerable stay and where the opportnn.ty was given to see this interltW A-T'l" '"'='"'' *'"' considerable care I? was difficult to realize that we were reaUv ai the mere s probably no view in tile Levant more celebrated than that from Rhodes toward f^! ot Mount Taurus come down in grandeur to the 2G w^ ■V 1/- r*, ■* 14; * l'''\\ !(l!.? 498 AROUND THE WORLD sea ; a long^ line of snowy summits was seen on the Lycian coast ; and the beautiful blue waters lay calmly under the equally blue and beautiful sky. The town comes down to the shore, and is flanked by green hills and verdant gardens. These hills rise into massive boldness as they recede from the shore. It will not be forgotten that the word Rhodes, Greek Rhodas^ is from the word rodom^ a rose. The island now belongs to Turkey. It has an area of about four hundred and fifty-two square miles, and a population of about thirty-five thousand. In this population the majority are Turks, but there are Jews, Greeks, and different classes of Europeans. The island is ruled by a pasha, who holds his office for life, and who also governs several of the adjoining islands which belong to Turkey. A mountain ridge divides the island from north to south. There are on the island well-watered, fertile, and cultivated valleys. Probably there is no island of the Mediterranean whose climate is finer. There is a considerable amount of commerce carried on in oil, oranges, citrons, coral, sponges, leather, and marble. It is believed that the earliest inhabitants were of the Doric race. The three most ancient towns of this island, Lindus, lalysus, and Camirus, formed, together with Cos, Cnidus, and Hali- carnassus on the mainland, the confederation which was known as the Doric Hexapolis. This island was once one of the stations of Phoenician commerce. The Rhodians with others estab- 14': seen on le waters beantifnl lore, and gardens. as they forgotten from the It has an ^o square hirty-five jority are different led by a who also is which 2 divides e are on ultivated 1 of the There is irried on , leather, ants were snt towns Camirus, nd Hali- ederation lis. This hoenician :rs estab- THE ISLES OF GREECE 499 hshed, in 578 b. c, a colony or the northeastern coast of Spain, calling it Rlioda, and it is now known as Rosas. The island came under the dominion of Alexander the Ckeat, and after his (leatli the Macedonian garrison was expelled. Rhodes then entered upon her most gloiious epoch ; but the city was captured in 42 B c because of its adiiesion to the party of Caesar! Worn this time the political power of the island declined. The Emperor Vesj,asian finally de- prived the city of its autonomy. The island was successively owned by the caliphs, the cru- saders, and the Genoese. A brilliant period of its history is associated with the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who landed at Rhodes in 1309, after they had been obliged to evacuate Palestine. They soon van- quished the Moslems, and made themselves mas- ters of the island. They held it until Sultan Solyman, the Magnificent, advanced against it with an army of two hundred thousand men to oppose which the knights had a force of olilv SIX thousand. The siege lasted for months, and the defense was heroic ; but the knights were obliged to surrender, and the city has been under its present masters ever since. The chief city has a population of about twenty thousand. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre upon a bay between two capes Remains of the ancient walls and towers built by the Knights of St. John are still seen. Tlie famous Colossns, or " Statue of the Sun " was one of the seven wonders of the world. It was ^T* )' '] !-l •I ', 500 AROUND TIIK WORLD of bronze, and twelve years were spent in its construction. Its height was one hundred and five feet. It was erected by the Rliodians to connnemorate their successful resistance of the tenth siege of Demetrius Poliocertes, the em- peror of Syria. This famous statue remained standing only about fifty years. About two hundred years be- fore Christ it was overthrown by an earthquake, and for nearly nine hundred y<:ars the fragments lay upon the ground. They were then sold and carried away into Kmesa on nine hundred camels. When the Apostle Paul was at Rhodes, the main portion of the famous statue was prostrate ; he saw only portions of the buttresses. It is said that there were three hundred other statues in this famous city. Rhodes has been frequently greatly injured by earthquakes, that of April 22, 1863 being one of the severest. A terrific powder explosion in 1856 destroyed all the principal buildings, some of which are still heaps of ruins. Looking at this city as we approached it, one could not help remembering the words found in Acts 21 : i, "The day following unto Rhodes." Kal Apostolic Associations. — Near us as we pressed forward was Myra, where Paul touched (Acts 27 : 5). Near Myra is Patrse, where once it was supposed that the fire on the altar of Apollo burned. Myra is on the mainland east of Rhodes, and in the vicinity is Cnidus which Paul reached with difficulty, " the wind not TIIK ISI.KS OK GRKKCIC t in its I red and lians to e of the the em- ng- only 'ears 1)e- hquake, ig^nients >old and camels, he main rate ; he ; is said atues in iquently )f April terrific all the II heaps •reached e words iig unto 1 as we tonched tre once altar of nd east s which ind not 501 suffering ns " (Acts 27 : 7). We soo^r;;;;;;;ed by Los Ins pace is famous for the fortifications erected here by Alcibiades toward the close of the Peloponnesian War. It will also be remem- fr/r1^/ f/^ ''"' ^^'^ ''""^ ''^ ^^'^ "»«^^^^^1 school traditionally connected with the name of ^scn- eSn; r/ • ?' ^^V '"''" ^"gSested that donbt- ess the Christian physician, Lnke, could scarcely have been ignorant of the celebrity of Cos Opposite Cos, and on the coast of Caria, was Hahcarnassns, the birthplace of Herodotus, "the father of history," and also of Dionysin^, the literary critic and historian. Miletns is on the mainland in this vicinity. It will be remem- bered that It was here the apostle had his affect- ing interview with the elders of Ephesns, who came down a distance of abont thirty miles to meet him. It is not easy to describe the emotions with which I gazed npon the island of Patmos Wonderfnlly vivid were the memories of the letters to the seven chnrches of Asia communi- cated on that island by the risen and enthroned Jesus to the imprisoned John. It is a remark- able fact that we have in the New Testament not only epistles from famous apostles, but epis- tles also from the Lord Jesus Christ himself. Yes, on yonder island was the scene of the Reve- lation Here the Lord in some manner con- versed with his beloved disciple. On that island visions of indescribable glory were opened to the eyes of every believer. On these mountains, islands, and waters, the eye of the beloved Johii 111 "i r 1 M t. h ^^l: :.;« 1 , < 11 - H:' Nl -if' I ' 502 AROUND TIIK WORLD rested. Listening to the sublime music of these waters on the rock-bound shore, and lookiufj out over their sparkling surface, he wrote the words, " and the sea gave up its dead." Marvelously real were these New Testament scenes as I walked the deck of the ship and gazed out on the irregular mass of bleak and barren rock called Patmos. Its name is now Patino, but it was called during the middle ages Palmosa, or the island of palms. It is one of the ancient group of Sporades, and now belongs to Turkey. It is about thirty miles west of tlie coast of Asia Minor and twenty miles south of the western extremity of Samos. The island is about ten miles long, five broad, and over thirty in circumference. A narrow isthmus divides it into two unequal parts. Its chief port on the eastern side of the isthmus is said to be one of the best harbors in all the Greek islands. The Romans used it as a place of banishment, and to it Domitian consigned the beloved disci- ple, perhaps in the year A. d. 94. It is believed that the Apostle John was recalled after the ty- rant's death September 18, a. d. 96; but there is much doubt regarding these dates, and they cannot be affirmed with complete accuracy. There is a village of some fifty or sixty liouses and shops at the landing-place, but the town is on the ridge about half an hour distant from the landing. Still higher is the celebrated monas- tery bearing the name of "John the Divine." It was built by the Byzantine emperors in the twelfth century, and is inhabited still by about TlIK ISI.KS OK GRKi.;cK 5f^3 ic of these okiiifj out he words, ^estaiiient ship and bleak and e is now ddle ages is one of V belongs est of tlie south of : island is ^'er thirty divides it rt on the be one of is. lishment, vcd disci- ; believed ?r the ty- but there and they racy. ty liouses e town is from the d monas- Divine." rs in the by about fifty monks. There is a library containin..- about one thousand printed volumes. Below the monastery is the grotto in which the apostle IS saul to have written the Apocalypse. The inhabit.' iits number about four thousand and are mostly Greeks, whose reputation is anythiiiS elves in ncl en view 2ars was ly with- seenicd Athens ! iristotle, I ipho- 'ese, entiles ! were in ike to )nt it is to cnt way to oed the s to the when Vonder- ne and aiiditory were reproduced. With new nioanin<,^ his allusions to Uniplcs made with hands, forced themselves ui)on mind and heart. From the Areopaj^us the distance is short to the Acropolis. One niij^^ht well visit this place every day, if he were to spend months at the Grecian capital. Perhaps one may he pardoned even thonjj^h he could not control his emotions when standinjjf on that historic sjjot and j^aziuj; out over the city, the j)lain, and the mountains. Marvelous Parthenon, the pride of Cireece and the wonder of the world ! It has been calk-d, "the finest edifice on the finest site in the world, hallowed by the noblest recollections that can stimulate tlie human heart." This building was completed in 438 h. c. Built by Pericles, it was adorned by Phidias, and is said to have cost at least four millions of dollars of our money. I shall not atti apt to describe these marvelous places and structures, nor the Cireat Stadium, nor the Theseum. Matchless Athens ! On the Acropolis one's emotions are akin to those experienced on the Mount of Olives. One cannot but compare the two cities — Athens and Jerusalem ; Athens representing- the world of culture, Jerusalem, the world of revealed relij^- ion. Athens was the metropolis of this world without revelation. Jerusalem was the city of the mighty Jehovah. The glorious sunshine, the cloudless sky, the refreshing breeze, the commingled memories, all made this visit to Athens an epoch in one's life and an undimnied light in one's memory. la 1 i 4 1 i i / i .;.' U Ij-, :i\ ' 1^' ft ^^f 506 AROUND THE WORLD Tlier" is no other city in Jie world, with which, in its own special sphere, " august Athena " can be compared. The last look was taken at this immortal city as the train carried us to the Piraeus, and the last look at the glorious plains and hills as the steamer bore us on our journey toward Constantinople. It was a matter of regret that I was not per- mitted to visit Ephesus, the old capital of Ionia, in L> Jia. This town is believed to have been founded about 1043 ^' C- ^^ ^^ ^^^^ known that for many centuries it was the cradle of Hellenic mythology. It is inseparably associated with the preaching of Luke, Paul, Barnabas, and Polycarp. It took high rank among sacred cities as well as among schools of art and philosophy. It was also prominent among the seven churches of Asia. Its temple of Diana, glittering in beauty at the head of the harbor, was one of the wonders of the world. I could only locate it in my thoughts as we sailed on- ward, but even this suggestion of its location fixed afresh in my mind the many allusions made to it in classical and biblical story. Smyrna. — And now we are anchored at Smyrnri. Would that we might take the rail- way from here to Ephesus, a distance of fifty miles. It surely is an evidence of remarkable progress that there should be a railway in this ancient and distant city. The world is moving onward with rapid strides. Smyrna, Turkish Isinir, is situated at the head of the gulf of th which, ena " can n at this IS to the us plains r journey not per- of Ionia, ave been lown that Hellenic ted with ibas, and g sacred art and inong- the >f Diana, e harbor, I could lailed on- location ons made liored at the rail- e of fifty tnarkable y in this ; moving Turkish : gulf of THE ISLES OF GREECE 507 Smyrra. rhV^^^Td^^lle^,^^^ selves here probably one hundred and fifty ears before our era. Smyrna has occupied a grea P ace both in secular and ecclesiastical history and he remains of ancient Smyrna fuHy a te ^ the high degree of its civilization. Columns ZZi:t " >"^ ^!.^"^^^ ^^ precious me 1^ ad gems have been dug up here for centuries and now adorn the museums of Europe Christianity was probably introduced into Smyrna during the first century. Polycarn a disciple of the Apostle John, was one of its eTdv bishops. Smyrna sent its bishop, Eutyche' o the ecumenical council held at^Nice'^ '' ' Smyrna is one of the seven apocalyptic churches' and It, with Philadelphia, is comiuLded and t IS a remarkable fact that tliese two cities are sti flourishing, while tue other five are, ?or the most part, a mass of ruins. ' quakes. The modern town is built upon the slopes of Mount Pagus. The houses are^t^^tally two stories high and are built of wooden beams encased in stone; the beams are thus ^reserved from fire and the houses stre gthened aS earthquakes. Tliere are several Greek chufcTef Protestant and Roman Catholic churcl les J; wel supplied with schools and has French c^iT^'art fo^'p'""^ "^^'^^>' P^P-^- It is the nor Tw M ^"^«Pf".^o^nmerce in Asia Mi- • uu V^'l'^^^'^ '"^^'^ '^ ^ »"arked city and its neighborhood is justly celebrated for its beauty M /' 08 AROUND THK WORU) ■,'W • I*! ' ,. n, ■ M ■< i *i -.'<', !■ I ■''i t^: .>] ii' ( 'f ; 1 i;ll %^ 'i There are fine groves of cypresses, and the plain near the harbor abonnd in fig and olive trees and vines. There seemed to he as many lang-nages spoken in Smyrna as at Rabel. Cara- vans of camels ponr in from every part of Asia, Syria, and Arabia, while ships from Knrope and America crowd the harbor. A jargon is heard, said to be composed of half a dozen langnages, and abonnding in nantical phrases and slang ex- pressions representing almost all the langnages of the world. The grave of Polycarp is certainly one of the most interesting places in Smyrna. Possibly he was "the angel of the chnrch in Smyrna " to whom the letter to that chnrch was addressed. We know that he was bishop or pastor of that chnrch for more than eighty years. We are all familiar with the heroic words which he nttered as he was led ont to the place of execntion. A cypress tree grows near the place where his dnst reposes. When threatened with wild beasts, he said, " Bring them forth " ; when nrged to re- cant, his reply was, " I am a Christian ! " He died at the stake A. d. 166. It may not be amiss to quote the words with which he affirmed his faith : " Eighty-six years have I served him ; dnring all this time he never did me any injnry ; how then can I blaspheme my King and Sav- ionr ? " Mission work is now going forward in Smyrna, and the light so long ago kindled in that land still continues to shine. Laodicea is sixty miles from Ephesus. It is said that now nothing bnt ruins remain. Of all U and the and olive as many -1. Cara- t of Asia, irope and is lieard, moruajies, slang ex- anguages tie of the )ssibly he yrna " to d dressed, r of that ^e are all e uttered tion. A his dust easts, he :d \o re- !" He not be affirmed Td him ; ' injury ; nd Sav- ward in idled in 5. It is Of all 'I'Hi-: isij.;s OF OKHKCK 5t>9 am" Ionia i.s Chios. Tl^l' ^^^Jf ^l^'^y^^:^ past tins ,sla,Kl. It will eve. be nienio al> i connection with discussions co,,ccT,n„. 'tie irt place of the innnortal Hon.cr. Nc"ir Lre is Lesbos, called dnrinc. the Middle AfTerMity en^ fron, ,ts capital city, aii.I famous as the r b' Alca=ns, Sapp lio, and Anon. It was while in fi,-T^^^;~^^ "^^'^ ''''''' "^''^'' the scenes of the T^=::;*wr ^li -v:^;';? -r^iS' f tbeT, i ^^°""-''■"^ P^'"' fl"- "'ctropolis of the T.oad Tins comprised a broad plain slo, Iff ron, the foot of Monnt Ida to the'sea T e an was den.sely peopled by the nii.xed race of itn •etiS'TrV''''-^'''''''"' ""'' ■' »"''■"■"« niaii> cities ; but of these Tro)- was bv far the 5IO AROUND THK WORLD I'! ' M I, X i\ :i^ most splendid and powerful. It was founded by Ilus, the son of Tros, and grandson of Dardanus. It had a fortified acropolis, called Pergamum, which contained many royal palaces and tem- ples of the gods. Its highest splendor was at- tained under Priam, the son of Laomedon ; under him also it reached its downfall. It will be re- membered that his son Paris carried off Helen, the wife of Menelaus ; to punish this oiitrage a Greek army landed in Troas, besieged Troy for ten years, and finally destroyed the city. But the kingdom of Troy existed for centuries after. The discoveries of the !ast generation have brought from the darkness and silence of three thousp.nd years the knowledge of the site of the ancient Troy. This discovery is more remark- able than that of Nineveh by Layard. There was danger once that Ilium and the whole story of the Trojan War would be relegated to the re- gion of myths. Modern scholarship has accom- plished marvelous results in connection with these discoveries. Efforts have been made again and again to deny that there ever was a Homer, or that there ever was a city of Troy, or a Tro- jan War. Now all is changed, and many a learned theory is scattered like mist before the sunshine. The very armor of these ancient he- roes is placed under our eyes. The date of the capture of the city of Troy is generally put at 1 184 B. c. Homer's immortal Iliad and Odyssey have given immortality to the city and plain of Troy. The two rivers flowing from Mount Ida, Scamander and Simois, so renowned in the leg- it I THE ISLES OF GREECE nded by ardanus. gam urn, lid tem- was at- ; under 1 be re- Helen, it rage a ["roy for y. But 2S after, n have >f three of the em ark- There le story the re- ^ccom- 1 with e again ^omer, aTro- lany a >re the tut he- of the put at dyssey lain of It Ida, le leg- 511 rt:""^ t|^^,^roJan War, unite in 7h7p]aiu of Dr Schlieniaun has set at rest all discussions regarding the ocality of Troy, or Ilium, accord! i"g to Its Greek name. This distinguished dis- coverer was born in Mecklenburg, in 1822 When but a child he was arcustomed to listen hlhl''''^^^ '^''^^'^^ as repeated to him b" Ills father In 1869 He started on his first tour of research ; ni 1870-72 he continued his inve ' t gations. He identified the true site of Troy showing that the circumference of the walls s about three miles ; and he believes that he has stood. The story is of fascinating interest He twen^fi ''^H '' '^5 '^^^^"^^^^^ "^^ f-- than twenty-five thousand specimens of art, goine Manv of'l' ""^'"^''^ ^"^^"^^ before ' Christ^ Many of these, one regrets to say, are of the most undesirable moral significance.' These ' teresting facts can only be mentioned here in the briefest possible way. Trov'^'^^f -"^ ^'-^^^ '''^' ^^^ar the scene of ancient iroy. This name was given it to distinguish it rom the Troy of Homer. All this neihbor hood IS the subject of legend and song, and one breathes here a truly classical atmosph?!-. Yon! fts%nt?r^^''";' ^^''' 'y'^' ^ts beaiitifui woods, its sparkling streams, its poetic memories, and mythological allusions. ' Here in the island of Tenedos, ten miles in cir- cumference and thirteen miles from the moulh I! '■*^ H 512 AROUND THE WORLD r..\h r,Al'i I p. ,/ of the Hellespont. It has a population of about seven thousand, partly Greeks and partly Turks. It is celebrated for its excellent wines. Beauti- ful was the afternoon when we sailed by this classical island. It lies like a gem on the bosom of the sea. Off in the distance was seen the nearest land of Europe, the lofty Mount Athos. It is said that before Constantine fixed on Constantinople as the site of his new capital, he thought of selecting Troas. To this day Troas retains the name of Eski-Stamboul, or Old Con- stantinople. It is also said that Julius Caesar, in his dream of a universal empire, thought of this beautiful spot as his capital. The Apostle Paul was at Troas no fewer than three times. It was here he preached to so late an hour at night that Eutychus fell from an upper window and was killed, but was restored to life by the words of the apostle (Acts 20 : 10). At this spot he was called to visit Europe ; it was here at night that there arose before his vision the man of Macedonia, saying, " Come ever into Mace- donia, and help us" (Acts 16 : 9). It is impos- sible for any one fully to comprehend all that that call meant to the history of Europe and to the cause of Christianity throughout the world. Dr. Fish reminds us that on many memorable occasions the great men of the world visited this shore. Xerxes passed this way when he under- took to subdue Greece, and Julius Caesar was here after the battle of Pharsalia. Here at the tomb of Achilles the entliusiasm of Alexander of Macedon was kindled. The memory of his Lli^ of about y Turks. Beauti- by this le bosom seeu the It Athos. fixed on pital, he ly Troas Did Con- s Caesar, )ught of Apostle e times, hour at window i by the At this s here at the man o Mace- s impos- all that e and to e world, morable ited this e under- isar was e at the exauder y of his , . ~ 513 iieroic ancestors so stirrer? 1,; • '- "^spired his ambition thnf "' ""^'^^^"^tion and throw the oldest 'nastofUrf'^^' ^" °^'^^- here now stands Pn,, 7i , ^^^ ^'^''^- But poin, out - a nVSe^^^sI^^td^^^^^^ liiiiise f inciclentillv/, , . achieving for '>e brings i. mSfrab 1 m'" •""*''''''""' *'"'^ and unfiding glor^to his mS"P '" """--'"">' 2H Hi if 4 It'/ "I ., ii XXXIX CONSTANTINOPLE ' 7 ;* PASSING from the ^gean by the strait of the Dardanelles, anciently the Hellespont, meaning " bridge of Greece,'* we entered the Pro- pontis of the ancients, or sea of Marmora. This sea lies between European and Asiatic Turkey ; it is about one hundred and sixty miles long, and fifty-five miles wide. During a part of the afternoon and the night we sailed through these waters. The weather was not only cool, but positively cold during the night and the early morning, although it was about the middle of October. We bore around to the left, and en- tered the Bosphorus, and thence into the Golden Horn. Before the rising of the sun we anchored at old Byzantium, or Stamboul, now Constanti- nople. There was the usual scrambling for luggage, the usual shouting of the runners for boats and liotels, and the usual conflict of authorities before we were actually landed. The Orientals love noise. The excitement of landing from one of these steamers is enough to make a man half insane, nnless he has made all arrangements before arrival, or is a man of stoical character. No one can ever forget the beauty of the situa- 514 CONSTANTINOI'I.E 515 tZr^ Constantinople as T,e approadreTTT by water. While I was arriving the snn arose and mosqnes with their do.nes and n.inarerand ^11 the other public bnildings of this fasci" mtinJ c.ty were glittering in alf the glorfonrspl'endo? of the morning sunshine. It certainly was a sight never to be forgotten. ^ CoNSTANTiNOPLE.-The name Constantinoole means, the "city of Constantine." The Tu?fc! sh name is Istambonl, or Stamboul. This his. ! t L'f M "" '^'P'"'' °f '^'"'key and is situated It it^ f^KlT'"'.™ ^""•«"^-°f f'e Bosphorus it les in two continents, and seems to be three cities. The ancient Byzantium is on the long- horn-shaped promontory between the sea rf Marmora and the Golden Horn. To this citv Constantine gave his own name. On what is warioca^d n,^-^?lio Point the ancient city was located. It is easy to see wliy the Spartans and St r:^;?"'' "'^ Macedonians,' the P^ersiaiis; thecil^ ' ^°.".'^"ht to be a much better bridge than it is, it beinj,^ covered simply with wooden planks. One can see there every type of Oriental and of Hnropean life. Brid<;es connect Stanibonl witii the modern cities of Oalata and Pera, and jour- neys can be made by ca/t/iu's or other boats to Scutari, which lies on the opposite side of the Bosphorus in Asia. Every spot, every sc[uare, every town, every mosque, recalls some wonder- ful historic event, or some scene of fearful car- nan;e. At every turn of the street, there are su<»-- oestions of mystery, or leg-ends of the prowess of a pasha, or the caprice of a sultana. The whole atmosphere appeals to the imagination, and bears the tourist away to scenes of mystery, of horror, or of shame. Kvery Friday the sultan comes forth from his palace on the Bosphorus, and amid the booming of cannon, sails down in a splendid caiqui\ or barg-e, to his mosque, which is sur- rounded by soldiers. Crowds watch him as he makes this trip from his palace to his mosque. vSonie of the barges wdiich accompany the sul- tan are glittering with gold and most gracefully formed. He sits as a trembling tyrant on his tottering^ throne, pitied, despised, and hated by the most intelligent nations of the earth. Roberts College will always be an object of special interesi to Christians from the United States. And no one can think of the Crimean war and its fearful horrors, and the ravages of /ill CONSTANTINOPI.K Stlll*^ IS 11. The ses that l<4e tliaii I planks. II aiul of )nl vvitii 11(1 jour- boats to i of the square, woiuler- ■ful car- are su<4- jwess of e wliole id bears 1 Horror i comes id auiid ;pleiidid is sur- 1 as he iiosque. ^he sul- icefully ; oil his itcd by )ject of United rim can ages of 521 disease amonjr British soldiers, vvithou7tli"i^inir of Moreuce Nioluin^rale and her visit to ScutaH 111 that terrible winter of 1855. Th,e iMmlish cemetery, contaiiiiiijr the oodies of many who fell 111 tlie Crimean war, is a well-kept flower irarden lyin^- close to the Hosphorus. There is a oreat granite monument to ei^lit thousand nanreless (lead. In the cemetery are stones comniemor- atiiic| those who fell at Alma, at Inkermann, at iialaklava and other terrible battlefields The cemetery is the inevitable, the ubiquitous wit- ness to the horrors of every battlefield. 1 here is very much of interest for the tourist 111 a 1 this ancient and remarkable city No wonder Russia has longed to cret possession of this historic city. No man may dare piot)hesy as to what shall occur to it in the near futures Its location connects it and us with ancient his- tory and lepnd. The Bosphorus joins the Black Sea and the sea of Marmora. In the musemn IS the old Cham that oncc stretched across the streani to prevent the entrance of alien fleets. Here Darius crossed into Europe with a fleet • somewhere in this vicinity came Jason, haviiicr put to sleen the guarding- dragon ; here lo in the orm of an ox crossed the water, thus givincr it the name Posphorus. Throuoli parts of This city blood ;,as flowed in rivers ; crueltv lust and vice of every sort, togetlier with virtues of iKany kinds, are sugj^ested by the name Constan- tinople. XL CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON ; If A Long Railway Ridk. — I was not sorry to leave this city. The excitement was so great that any moment an outbreak was possible. By a careful study of time tables, I learned that leaving Constantinople a little before midnight of Wednesday, I could reach London in time for Sunday. Immediately I put my plans into vig- orous operation. INIy passport had to be ex- amined again and again before T was permitted to leave the city. About eleven o'clock, how- ever, I was on the train for London. I did not take the fastest train, as the additional charge for that train was about nine pounds. There was but another passenger with me in the com- partment as -we started from Constantinople, he going to Pans, and I to London. Our journey was by way of Adrianople. This is an important Turkish city, named after the Emperor Hadrian, its founder. It has been the scene of many battles and sieges. The Turks took it from the Christians in 1361, and until they captured Constantinople in 1453, it was their capital. In 1829 the Russians captured it from the Turks, and again in 1878. We then passed through Philippopolis, the most impor- 522 \' ' ; i i 1 1 1 CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON 523 le com- taiit city of Rounielia. Soon we reached Sophia, the capital of Bulgaria ; then on to Nisch, or Nissa, founded by Philip of Macedon, and the birthplace of Constantine the Great. We were constantly obliged to show our pass- port to various officials as we passed through these different countries. This became a very tedious process. We were glad to get beyond the influence of Turkey an ^ of the countries in the vicinity of Turkish territory. We finally reached Belgrade, formerly the capital of Servia on l1 . Danube. The ancient name was Singid- ununi; the Turks call it Darol-Jihad, the "house of the holy war." The German name is Weis- senburg. The name Belgrade is of Slavonic origin, coming from biclo^ "white," and grad^ or grod^ a "fort," or "town." It is situated at the confluence of the rivers Save and Danube. This is the chief place of trade between Turkey and Austria. It has been the scene of many sieges and battles. Belgrade means, as v.'e have said, "white fortress." Our journey now led us through a district which of late years has been very conspicuous in European political history ; it also was a journey through the grand scenery of til ' Balkan Mountains. No one can be other than impressed both by the historical interest and by the na^ ir^l beanty attaching to this part of the journey. One hundred and thirty miles southeast of Vienna we reached Bnda-Pesth on the Danube. This city is made up of the city of Buda on the south bank of the river, and the cii ■ of Pesth on 524 AROUND THE WORLD ' "/ I' I I tlie north of the river ; the two cities being joined by a snspension bridge. Buda is on high ground, and is built around the Schlossberg, or '' castle hill." We had time here to examine the citadel where emperors of Austria are crowned as kings of Hungary. The park, grounds, gar- dens, and the principal boulevards are very at- tractive. This is truly a fine city. The crown, scepter, and mantle of St. Stephen, the first Christian king of Hungary, are seen in the chapel near the cathedral. Pestli is on a sandy plain, and is protected by embankments which keep out the water of the river. About four-fifths of the population of the united cities live in Pestli. The Hall of the Hungarian Diet, or congress, is in this part of the city. The T'niversity of Pestli has more than two thousand students, and also excellent museums and libraries. It is supposed that the word Pesth, conies from an old word meaning, " sand." The Romans had a town on this site. Buda and Pesth were incorporated with each other in 1873, and the comjA^und name became the of- ficial name of the citv. In a few hours we were in beautiful Vienna. This city aiH, the rest of the journey to London were comparatively familiar territory. We had to take a most hurried carriage ride across Vienna from one railway station to another, and it was with the utmost < .fficulty that we reached the station befort the train for Cologne, and eventu- all) ff>r London, started. It was already in motion, and only by courtesy of the guard was I V s being on high berg, or :xaniine crowned ids, gar- very at- crown, he first in the :ted by : of the 11 of the of the t of the mn two useums [ Pesth, " The da and her in the of- CONSTANTINOPLE TO I^ONDON 525 /ienna. vondon had to V'ienna it was ed the ;ventn- idy in rd was the door opened to give us admittance. The ride was bitterly cold, especially to one who was dressed in the light clothing suitable for India and other tropical climes, even though wrapped '■•• heavy rugs ; it was impossible to be comforta- bly warm until we reached railway coaches that were artificially heated. Beautiful was the ride through Germany, pass- ing one historic town after another, Nuremberg being reached in the morning after leaving Vienna on the previous evening. This was the first time that the writer had the opportunity of going along the shore of the Rhine in the autumn and seeing at that season the vine-clad hills and the castles so rich in historic memories, and so weird in legendary talcs. Two interesting trav- eling companions, one a Scotchman from Glas- gow, and the other a Swede from Stockholm, gave additional zest to this interesting trip. At five o'clock on Saturday afternoon Cologne was reached. One could not help feeling much at home in places formerly visited, after a journey through so many countries seen for the first time. Here we changed trains for the first time since leaving Vienna, and having made no change between Constantinople and Vienna. At exactly midnight we prepared to cross the channel at Ostend, and a few hours afterward we were at Dover. The journey across the channel was made while sleep was so sound that it required considerable effort on the part of one of the officials to break the spell of slum- ber when Dover was reached. From Dover to 526 AROUND THH WORLD '»'*l' r 'i K I'M London, the journey seemed as nothing, and again the writer had to be aroused at Cannon Street that he might be ready to leave the coach when Charing Cross should be reached. At five o'clock on Sunday morning he reached his room in the Charing Cross Hotel. Days in London. — If there was a grateful man in London, it was this scribe as he gave thanks to God for journeying mercies and for the opportunity of spending the Lord's Day in a Christian city, and for the privilege of worship- ing in the Metropolitan Tabernacle. For some weeks life had been, so far as public religious services were concerned, rather heathen than Christian. Never was the appreciation of an English-speaking, Protestant, and genuinely Christian country so great, as when London was reached that morning. One felt almost as much at home as if he were in New York. We seldom appreciate our Christian, national, and linguistic privileges until we have been de- prived of all of them in whole or in part for consecutive months. It was very pleasant to have the opportunity of spending a few days in London before sailing for home. London possesses a strange charm to every one who is familiar with its history and who spends considerable time within its limits. London is an overwhelming city. It is not one city, but a ccngeries of cities. London is in a real sense the heart of the financial and commercial world. It is the center of the world >!; CONvSTANTlNOPLK TO LONDON 527 and in a variety of senses. One day of this grimy, smoky, and altogetlier dingy city is better than a week of smiling, bowing, and asseverating Paris. With profound gratitude the pleasure of spending Sunday in this city was contemplated. I hastened to the Metropolitan Tabernacle. To me this church is a mightier influence for good and f^i God than St. Paul's or Westminster Abbey. The ever-honored Charles H. Spurgeon made the Tabernacle the center of influences which reached to the ends of the earth. This building will ever be sacred, because of its mani- fold associations. I thought of the time, about twenty years ago, when first I saw and heard its great pastor in its pulpit. Now I looked for- ward with gratitude to the opportunity of hear- ing Pastor Thomas Spurgeon on this particular Lord's Day. In his success as the successor of his father, thousands of Christians of all denom- inations on both sides of the Atlantic feel a pro- found and prayerful interest. London, on this last Sunday in October, was peculiarly gloomy, smoky, and chilly. Soon, however, Pastor Thomas came into his fctther's old reception room with words, face, and hand of welcome. A little Ir.ter we were in the great au- ditorium. The people were pouring in at all the doors. WouM it be possible on this Sunday morning to fill the great church ? The people were answering that question in the affirmative. One is constantly reminded as the honored son reads and expounds the Scripture, and as he leads the great congregation in prayer, of the w 5^8 AROUND TIIK VVOKI.D ^ :• A ' 't beloved and now sainted father. The sermon was on tlie words of Christ to his parents, " Wist ye not that I must be about my Father's business?" It was a warm-hearted discourse. It did my soul good to participate in this serv- ice. At its close many hearty introductions and cordial welcomes were given to the visiting brother. I had the opportunity of attending the pleas- ant Sunday afternoon service in Rev. F. B. Meyer's church. This is a unique service. An audience of the better class of workingmen about half filled the church. The exercises were hearty, the addresses brief, pointed, and practical. The most earnest vspiritual appeals were made by Mr. Meyer and others, and they, as well as the solos that were sung and certain patriotic resolutions which were offered, were all heartily cheered. One was somewhat shocked at the absence of what is usually considered to be the appropriate decorum of a religious service in a church on the Lord's Day ; but further consideration of the object of this service, as well as its dominant spirit, modified any unfavorable criticism which at the first one might be disposed to make. The whole purpose of the occasion was religious, and the men were deeply in earnest. The evening service at the Tabernacle was stimulating and helpful. F'^or several evenings during the week the writer had the opportunity of delivering addresses at the various services which were held. On one evening there was a report of the workers in one department, and on £ scrniou parents, Father's liscourse. Lliis serv- Dcluctioiis I visiting he pleas- V. F. B. ice. An len about e hearty, al. The e by Mr. tlie solos solutions cheered, sence of ^ropriate urcli on 3n of the ominant n which e. The ous, and acle was ivenin^s ortunity services re was a and on COXSTANTINOPLK TO LONDON 529 Other evenings reports of workers hi other de- partments o the manifold services winch tlis grea ehurch is so successfully rendering A all these services the presence of Pastor Thomas sSZ ^^^^-^^-»' enthusiasm, a^^Z spiiation. He has enormous burdens to carrv bu he IS carrying them with a brave heart and' a strong faith. He has a great place to fi ' a lie IS filling It with humble reliance upon Go witli earnest personal work, and in the en o ment of the love and support of the great nm" Jon y of the members of {his historie chureh No man could succeed so great a preacher and pastor as was his father without having soie defections and criticisms. Many eonsidLtk^ s with which the world is familiar tended trcon plicate the relation of the church to the paste " but happily all these complieations are pass^iJ away. Pastor Thomas Spurgeon is a g ow .^^ man, growing intellectually: spiritualh n d practically. His whole spirit is^ln^r he fluence of the Spirit of God, and his p esence SrZf Tr^' ^'''''' "^ ^^^^^^« asimilar pi -t 11 their re ation to one another and to all the work of the church. He is a man of mo t ire"ff'rod'""-^'^'^'"^P^^^^- "^ -alizesh leed of God's presence in his work, and that presence is constantly enjoyed. A read v 'e crisis in the history of this church has pLld The future is assured. There will be hard 'vovh bTefsinJ iTc TV' '^ P^^^^--^ "-^'^ e wifl t ^^'"""^ "^'^ ^'°^" ^^''^ sanctified labor with abundant success. Pastor Thomas Spur- 21 it 530 AROUND TIIK \VORI,n I'f ]\' 1* t< f:|.'ll-' linif; g:eon lias a lar^e and warm place in the hearts of his brclhreu of all denominations throughout the world. A visit was made to the vStockwcll Orphanajre, founded by Charles H. vSpurgeon. This insti- tution is a home and school for hundreds of fatherless boys and pi^irls. It has often been described by visitors who have desired to see the varied forms of work founded and carried on by the late Mr. Spurgeon. This institution is a monument to his practical wisdom, his Christian love, and his varied forms of devotion to the cause of God and man. Rev. Vernon 1. Charles- worth is the head-master. Pastor Tliomas vSpur- geon is now vigorously engaged in tlie work of the Orphanage, as in all the other forms of work connected with the great church. It would be easy ^ write many paragraphs de- scribing the origin, history, and position of the Stockwell Orphanage. It is doing a work on which the blessing of (xod constantly rests. The greater part of a day vvas spent in visit- ing the cemetery where the great hero and worn warrior, Charles H. Spurgeon, sleeps after his years of service and self-sacrifice. His monu- ment could not be more appropriate in material or in form. The gray granite seems to be sym- bolic of his own firm spirit, unwavering rer.olve, and enduring character. In form it is some- what suggestive of the Metropolitan Tabernacle. Its plainness, majesty, and tastefulness are all in perfect keeping with tlie character, life, work, and fame of the great man whose dust it covers. |[ CONSTANTINOPLK TO LONDON 531 t hearts jugliont iluuiapi^e, is iiisti- Ireds of Ml l)een ) see the :d oil by on is a christian 1 to the Charles- as Spur- work of onus of ch. It iphs de- ll of the vork on ts. in visit- id worn fter his monu- naterial be sym- rcr.olve, i sonie- rnacle. e all in work, covers. Tender inciiiories will ever gather about that tomb, and also about the home in Westwood, vis- ited the same afternoon. The love of Mrs. Spur- geoii for her home, her work, her sainted hus!)and, and her noble sons, no words can adequately describe ; ^ ut above all earthly loves, is her love to Christ, which constrains her in all her .service for the cause of Ciod. No words of description may be allowed to intrude unduly uj)on the .sanctities of that home, that study, and this be- reaved heart. The home .seemed vocal with the memories of the great preacher, pastor, writer, and worker; and it .seemed radiant with the glories of his and our divine Master. Every evening during this week there was a service of some form in connection with the Tabernacle, in all of which this writer with great enjoyment participated. On Friday after- noon he had the pleasure of meeting and ad- dressing the .students of the Pastor's College. The heartiness, responsiveness, and consecration of these students, were notable. This was his last night in London. The weather was for much of the week wet, and for all of the week cold. A glowing grate fire was a welcome ad- junct to one's room. Conclusion. — On Saturday, the 26th of Oc- tober, the journey homeward was begun from Southampton on the .steamer " Berlin," the "vSt. Louis " having been so disabled that it could not make its return passage on the appointed day. The journey homeward, although thus late in 532 AROUND THK WORM) i'< ■■■!: 4 1 -• • the season, was exlrcinely pleasant. It was an equal surprise and pleasure to find on hoard the Hon. Charles A. Boutelle, with whom an ac(inaintance was hegun in Washington, and which has been continued for many years ; and also Major Preston, of Hartford, whose success- ful business career is equaled by his constant devotion to Christian work. Joyous was the return to New York on the fourth of November at 9 o'clock in the morn- ing. With a gratitude which no words can describe, the greetings of family and church friends were received. The time taken in this trip around the world was just five months to a day. During that time a distance of about thirty-five thousand miles was traveled. There was not one moment's sickness, not one serious miscalculation in plans, nor disappointment in carrying out those plans. pA'ery moment was marked by tokens of Divine blessing and by manifold experiences of pleasure and profit. The world was never so large as now, nor so small. We are learning as never before that the interests of one country are the interests of all countries, and that no man can be indifferent to the welfare of his fellow-men in any part of the world. A man to-day, and especially an Ameri- can, ought to be cosmopolitan in sympathy, in knowledge, and in desire. Still it will ever be true that, The patriot's boast, where'er we roam, His first, best country, ever is at home. M ■ \ It was an oil Ijoanl whom an ^ton, and ears ; and e success- constant rk on tlie lie niorn- .'ords can ^1 clmrcli n in tliis lontlis to of about . There le serious tment in nent was I and by rofit. w, nor so : that tlie its of all Terent to rt of the 1 Aineri- )athy, in [ ever be