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 OF OUR 
 
 Trip Across British Columbia 
 
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 FROM GOLDEN, ON THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY, TO 
 
 KOOTENAI, IN IDAHO, ON THE NORTHERN PACIFIC 
 
 RAILWAY, AND OF OUR VISIT TO THE 
 
 AMERICAN NATIONAL PARK 
 
 THE YELLOWSTONE," IN WYOMING, 
 
 Thence Home via. St. Paul and the New Soo Line. 
 
 y ' 1 
 
 
 Willie, who had been studying maps and reading up about British Columbia, 
 thought he would prefer such an outing for his holidays to any other, and sug- 
 gested that I and Charlie should accompany him on some such excursion, and 
 on the 7 th of September he and Charlie left Toronto for the West via Owen 
 Sound, and thence by C. P. R. Steamer to Port Arthur, with the understanding 
 that I was to follow in a few days. They were to await my arrival at Banff. 
 
 i .; I 
 
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 1889. 
 
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A TRIP ACROSS BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 
 I left Toronto on Friday night for North Bay, where I got 
 the C. P. R. main line train for the West at 9 a. m. Everything 
 possible appears to have been done by this Company for the com- 
 fort and ease of the travelling public ; it was pleasant to find 
 oneself seated in one of their luxurious sleepers. 
 
 The weather, until we reached Port Arthur, was uncomfortably 
 hot. At Port Arthur the 24 hour system comes in use on the 
 Western and Pacific Division, and our watches were put back an hour. 
 
 Our train had a very full complement of passengers. In passing 
 through it, I observed in one of the colonist sleeping cars an 
 exceedingly nice looking family of children. There were nine of 
 them — seven g.rls and two boys — all with such handsome features, 
 bright complexions and flaxen hair. The mother told me that the 
 eldest was 13 years and the youngest 18 months old. They were 
 emigrating to the Island of Vancouver and were from Galway, in 
 Ireland. I told her that the government of British Columbia 
 ought to give her a handsome premium for bringing out such a 
 fine lot of young settlers. 
 
 We arrived at Winnipeg on Sunday on time to the minute. 
 The Countess of Shrewsbury and Lady Selkirk, who were on the 
 train, remained at Winnipeg. I had some conversation with them. 
 Lady Selkirk is a relation of Lord Selkirk, whose name is so 
 well known in connection with the early settlement of the country. 
 Here I wired Willie, asking him to get Captain Armstrong to 
 <ielay our departure from Golden from Monday till Wednesday, as 
 that would give me a day's rest at Banff. 
 
 After leaving Winnipeg and all along the line through Mani- 
 toba, the harvest fields were golden with the ripe grain which was 
 being gathered. The quality of the wheat was very fine, but owing 
 to the drought, which was abnormal, the yield was much less than had 
 
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 been anticipated, ff the rain fall on our prairies was equal to 
 that of Ontario, our Northwest would be the most productive 
 country under the sun, but it has compensating advantages. Not- 
 withstanding the absence of the normal rain fall during the past 
 season, the cattle on the prairies were in perfect condition — fat and 
 sleek. Their pasture is the bunch grass, which is exceedingly 
 nutritious. During a former visit to the Northwest I called to see 
 Mr. Mclntyre, who has a very fine farm of 2,000 acres near Regina. 
 He came from Ontario, where he had been a farmer. Mrt. 
 Mclntyre told me that she could get as much milk and butter from 
 five cows there as she could from eight in Ontario, and of a richer, 
 sweeter quality — the grass which they feed on is so nutritious and 
 free from weeds of any description. 
 
 Settlement modifies climate and will doubtless have its effect 
 in time, but there are some sections so exceptionally dry that it 
 will be necessary to sink artesian wells for the purpose of 
 irrigation, etc. This has been found necessary in the Western Stales^ 
 where they suffer more from drought than we do. They also suffer 
 from disasters unknown to us, such as tornadoes, hail storms, etc. 
 There are belts of country in some of these States where the pre- 
 valence of hail storms is so regular that insurance companies 
 exist in Chicago whose business it is to insure farmers against 
 damage to their crops from this cause. 
 
 Our train sped through the prairies — the illimitaW prairies — 
 for two days. Prairies to the right of us and prairies to the left. 
 There is no such vast area of first-class prairie land any where 
 else. Our neighbors have some as good, but not the same extent 
 of excellent grain lands as ours. Public men in the United 
 States in their published speeches, when it suits them to decry 
 Canada and the Canadians, make the statements that immigrants^ 
 avoid Canada, that settlers cannot be induced to settle on our 
 prairies, and, in this, it is much to be regretted, they are imitated 
 by some of our own public men. It should be pointed out 
 that Northern Dakota, which contains the largest area of rich prairie 
 land of any of the States, had in 1870 only a population of 
 14,000, and for many succeeding years settlement was very slow,, 
 but since 1879, after it had made a character for itself for wheat 
 growing, the inflow of people has been very great — a country, like 
 an individual, has to make a character for itself before obtaining 
 
public confidence. Our Northwest, in the few years since public 
 attention has been drawn to it, can show quite as good record as 
 Dakota in its early days, both as regards the average yield per 
 acre as well as by the inflow of settlers. 
 
 Mr. Royal, the Lieut. Governor of the Northwest Territories, 
 in his speech on the meeting of the Northwest Council, stated 
 that although the inflow of immigration was not as large as might 
 be desired, that those who did settle were of a superior class. 
 This fact furnishes an incentive for others to follow, and a pretty 
 sure guarantee that the inflow will increase from year to year. 
 
 Our train sped on, day and night, through this great prairie 
 land. We missed seeing the beautiful Bow River valley, as we 
 passed it by at night, arriving at Banfl*, much to our regret, on 
 time, but the C. P. R. will be punctual in spite of the sluggard 
 and the sleepy. 4.30 a. m. is a most uncomfortably early hour 
 for arrival or departure, and as there is only one through train each 
 day, it is, of course, equally inconvenient to passengers departing 
 from as well as arriving at Banfl*. There must be some unavoid- 
 able cause for this arrangement of the running of trains, the 
 C. P. R. being so noted for their consideration to the convenience 
 and comfort of the travelling public. 
 
 Banfl* is our national park, and the Company has added to its 
 great natural attractions one of the best appointed hotels on the 
 continent. In approaching it up the drive from the station, every 
 window brightly illuminated with the electric light, it is a veritable 
 oasis in the desert, surrounded as it is by the "Rockies" — almost 
 obscuring the sky in every direction. 
 
 I found the two boys asleep in the nicest of bedrooms over- 
 looking the junction of the Bow and Spray Rivers, a beautiful clear 
 stream with a pebbly bottom. After allowing them to have their 
 sleep out (they had been out hunting and fishing during the days 
 since their arrival, and slept the sleep of youth and innocence), we 
 had breakfast together, and at the same table with us was a United 
 States Senator, Mr. Thorpe, and his daughter Mrs. Ball, they heard 
 us talking about our contemplated trip, and Mrs. Ball very kindly 
 gave us some information about the Yellow-stone Park, which we 
 found very useful to us afterward when we reached that wonderland. 
 
 The day was fair and bright. Col. Herchimer, Chiei Commis- 
 sioner of the mounted police, kindly placed one of his light waggons 
 

 F 
 
 8 
 
 at our disposal. We paid a visit to the anthracite coal mines in the 
 neighborhood. As yet they are mainly works of developement. 
 Adits are being driven into the side of the mountain. The coal, of 
 which there appears to be abundance, is of a superior quality of 
 anthracite. We saw a train of loaded cars going to San Francisco. 
 The property is about to change owners and pass into the posses- 
 sion of Englis'i capitalists. On the road to the mines a band of 
 Indians with their squaws, papooses, and horses, were camped quite 
 close to the road. Our horses being mounted police horses, used 
 for waggons only, could not be called high spirited, took fright, and 
 the driver held them in with much difficulty. He told us that 
 other than Indian horses were always frightened at the sight of 
 the Indian, the smell, he said, was sufficient to alarm them. This 
 we found verified, as on our return, in passing the spot where the 
 Indians were camped our horses shied again, so much so that it was 
 difficult to hold them. We dined at the hotel, and met a number of 
 old friends and acquaintances. Col. Bernard, who is a great 
 invalid, had been at the hotel for some time and told us that the 
 place agreed with him well. 
 
 There was a large party of us leaving for the west next morning 
 (Wednesday), and the porter whose duty it was to call passengers 
 for the early morning trains neglected to do so, and there was a good 
 deal of hurry-scurry to get ready. A cup of coffee was thoughtfully 
 offered to all who had time to partake of it. We were however in 
 time for the train, although punctually on time as usual. The 
 morning was simply perfect, bright and clear, a sharp frost making 
 the atmosphere still clearer. When the sun rose, tipping the 
 peaks of the surrounding mountains, the effect was very beautiful, 
 the conditions could not be more favorable for seeing the sublime 
 scenery which encompassed us. The line follows the winding 
 of a narrow valley between the mountains and around their base, so 
 that we had mountains in front of us, mountains in the n^ar, to the 
 right, and to the left, the view backward being the finest. The 
 passengers were wild with delight. There was only one drawback 
 to mar their pleasure, the paymaster's car happened to be attached 
 to the rear of our train ; some of the passengers were furious at 
 loosing even a glimpse of any part of such scenery ; the opportunity 
 of seeing it under such favorable circumstances might never be 
 presented to many of them again. It was decided to communicate 
 
9 
 
 the grievance to Mr. Whyte, the superintendent of ihe Western 
 division, and they were satisfied for the time. It is well known Iiow 
 ready that efficient and obliging officer is to remedy any com- 
 plaint brought to his notice. The line skirted the Vermillion 
 Lakes, and as the train sped by, the passing scenery was seen 
 reflected as in a mirror. The Cascade, the Cathedral, the Castle 
 Mountains, Mount Massive, etc., the helmet shaped Mount Lefroy, 
 so named after that distinguished scientific soldier, Major-General Sir 
 Henry Lefroy, R. A., who visited the North-West many years ago, 
 when it was as yet the great lone land, for the purpose of taking 
 meteoric observations. There were many more mountains not yet 
 •christened to our knowledge, there was one which we named the 
 Bridal Cake from its resemblance to that much coveted confectionery, 
 and in size would suffice to supply all the weddings of future 
 generations. 
 
 Immediately before reaching Field the train rushes through the 
 famed Kicking Horse Pass, the line follows the side of Mount 
 .Stephen about one thousand feet above the gorge of the Kicking 
 Horse River. A forest of huge pines shoot up the base of mountain 
 below the line hemmed in by Mount Stephen on the one side and 
 the Van Horn Range on the other. It is impossible to find language 
 to convey the terrific grandeur of this pass. 
 
 The train emerges from it at Field, the pretty Swiss chalet-like 
 station of that name, where we had an excellent breakfast, everything 
 so perfectly neat and fresh. Soon after leaving Field we arrive at 
 •Golden, the termination of our railway travelling. Here we leave 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway and take Capt. Armstrong's steamer 
 up the Columbia, as far as it will take us on our journey across the 
 ■mountains towards the international boundary, near Bonner's ferry, 
 
 Capt. Armstrong met us at the station and hustled us im- 
 mediately on board his : teamer, which had been waiting the past 
 two days. We found a goodly number of voyagers on board, mostly 
 ranchmen or prospectors for mining claims, or both combined in the 
 same individual. We found that the majority of the men on board 
 owned ranches and several mining claims. Besides these, we had our 
 old friend, Mr. Hammond, of Toronto, with Mr. Francis and his 
 joung son, also Mr. Gamble, the Dominion resident engineer in 
 British Columbia. 
 
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 The Columbia takes its rise in the Upper Columbia Lake, and 
 flows northward until reaching lat. 52°, when it makes a sudden turn 
 to the south at Big Bend, between 118° and 119° long., and 
 eventually forsaking British territory, enters that of the United 
 States. On its way northward it passes Golden, which is about eighty 
 miles distant from its source, the Upper Columbia Lake, placidly 
 flowing down between the Rockies, on the one side, and the Golden 
 Range of the Selkirks on the other. It is at present only navi(;able 
 as far as Windermere, and then only when the water is high. Capt. 
 Armstrong's boat is the usual river stsrn wheel steamer. We left 
 Golden about one o'clock, the weather was perfect. Flocks of 
 ducks flew up before us as we steamed up the river ; Willie fired 
 into one of these flocks and brought down a tew birds. 
 
 We happened to be near a landing where some of the ranchers 
 and prospectors were getting ofl*, the captain kindly allowed Willie 
 and Charlie to take one of the small canoes which the steamer 
 carried, and paddle down the river for the birds j they found one 
 which fell into the water, but those in the bushes on the banks could 
 not be found. Soon after we left this landing we ran across a sand 
 bar or spawning ground made by the salmon, and being disturbed, 
 they jumped all round the steamer in large numbers. Charlie 
 became so excited that he fired away at them with his rifle. The 
 supply of salmon, however, is not likely to be affected thereby. We 
 steamed away as long as the captain could see his way, but ^e had 
 to stop for most of the night, and started early next morning. 
 
 The water became more shallow as we ascended the river, and 
 we finally had to stop at Spillamacheen, fourteen miles short of our 
 destination. Steamboat Landing. We were therefore compelled to 
 land here, on the Rocky mountain side of the river, and the 
 passengers took their way in the various directions where their 
 interests or business took them. There happened to be a team and 
 waggon which we engaged to take us to Steamboat Landing, where 
 Mr. Brownrigg, with whom Captain Armstrong had arranged to take 
 us across to Bonner's ferry, was waiting for us. It was about seven 
 o'clock when we reached the Landing, and we found Mr. Browrigg 
 ready and willing to drive us to Mackay's, about fourteen miles 
 further. 
 
 We were soon under way, and ascended from the cooley in 
 which we found Mr. Brownrigg, and reached the plateau above, and 
 
II 
 
 for some distance the road was not bad, much better than the one 
 we had travelled after leaving the steamer. 
 
 We found Mr. Brownrigg an intelligent and experienced courier, 
 and he amused us with stories about men and things in this part of 
 the world. As we were about to cross a deep gorge, he told us how 
 a white man had been murdered at that spot, and pointed to a pile 
 of logs where he was buried. I told him we preferred such stories 
 when it was not quite so dark, and in a less gloomy part of the road. 
 
 After we had crossed the gorge of the big Vermillion River, 
 and ascended a rather perilously steep hill out of it, we heard the 
 sound of horsemen behind us, which proved to be Capt. Armstrong 
 and Mr. Gamble. Mr. Gamble is the Dominion resident engineer 
 in British Columbia, and he and Capt. Armstrong were on their 
 way to the salmon beds on the Columbia. Small appropriations 
 have been made by the Dominion Government for the improvement 
 of the navigation of the Columbia, and it appeared to us that more 
 might be done with ad* itage to the public interests. If the 
 prospecting for minerals prove successful, and are found in paying 
 quality and quantity, the improvement of the navigation of the 
 Columbia will be a necessity. 
 
 We pursued our way towards Mackay's, distant about 15 miles,, 
 when we found that the horsemen coming after us were Mr. 
 Gamble and Captain Armstrong. We were most glad of their 
 company. We assisted each other in finding the trail, which we fre- 
 quently lost ; we had to light matches and hold them near the ground 
 in order to find it. We very nearly came to grief by driving into a 
 hole, but fortunately escaped without much injury. We at last 
 reached our destination, arriving about 1 1 o'clock, where we received 
 a right Highland welcome. Mrs. McKay took the trouble to go to 
 an out-house and brought in an abundance of beautiful fresh milk, 
 bread and butter, etc., and we were treated to an excellent breakfast 
 on the following morning. The farm is the best we have seen in 
 this district, reminding us of Ontario, with barn, stable and other 
 outhouses, horses, cattle, poultry, etc. Among the rest was a fine 
 flock of wild geese, hatched on the farm, handsome, swan-like birds 
 with drab and white feathers. Their wings had to be cut to prevent 
 their flying away. Before we left a number of squaws from ar* 
 Indian camp in the neighborhood came there for protection. An 
 Indian, a notoriously bad character, created a disturbance in their 
 
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 IS 
 
 camp, at the present occupied by squaws only, the Indians being 
 away on a hunting expedition. Several of the squaws were seriously 
 wounded. That Indian will doubtless receive his reward when the 
 other braves return. Captain Armstrong and Mr. Gamble started 
 for the salmon beds, and we took the road which will take us 
 eventually to the international boundary. 
 
 The drive this morning was through a most picturesque 
 country, along the base of the Rockies. The foot hills rising in a 
 terrace like form for several hundred feet up the side of the 
 mountain, with evergreen trees dotted over them, giving them a 
 park like appearance. 
 
 Here our driver pointed to what were called the Whisky Hills. 
 During the construction of the C. P. R. a regular business in 
 smuggling was carried on, whisky and other commodites were 
 smuggled in from the United States through these wilds. They 
 happened to be encountered here by the mounted police who stove 
 in the heads of the whiskey barrels and spilt the contents, hence the 
 name, Whiskey Hills. We reached Windermere, our destination 
 for lunch, about one o'clock. It is not unworthy of the name. 
 It is very prettily situated on the east bank of the lower Columbia 
 Lake. There are here three rather pretty and well-built log houses, 
 which had been erected by the government for the mounted 
 police — one is dignified by the name of Government House. 
 They don't appear ever to have been occupied. The mounted police 
 having been withdrawn from this part of the country is evidence 
 of peaceful and law-abiding Indians. There is a comfortable inn 
 here also, where we had luncheon. We walked down to the 
 banks of the Lake, which is exceedingly pretty, there were several 
 flocks of ducks sporting themselves on its surface. Willie tried 
 his rifle at them, but the ducks did not object, which was just as 
 well, for if any had been killed we could not have got them for the 
 want of a boat. Mr. Goldie, who resided in Hamilton at one time, 
 keeps a general store heie. He recognized us in passing his place. 
 He appeared to be quite jolly, as of old, and contented with his lot. 
 His greeting was cordial and pleasant. 
 
 The country traversed this afternoon was less interesting than 
 that between Mackay's and Windermere. We reached Brewer's at 
 about half-yast six, a fairly comfortable place. Mrs. Brewer is an 
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 the place, that she told her old man that he must take her back to 
 her own country again ; she evidently was ruler of that household. 
 Her old man being away from home, the Indians she said had been 
 rather impudent a day or two before our arrival, in persisting to put 
 their horses in their stable without pay, but she showed a determined 
 front and sent them off discomfited. Before breakfast next morn- 
 ing we paid a visit to the hot springs, about a mile up the side of 
 the mountain — the Rockies. There are several, but on a diminutive 
 scale. The water is pure and clear, the temperature from 80 to 100 
 degrees. We got under way about 9, the country being less inter- 
 esting than that which we traversed the day before. 
 
 We passed a small " shack," (dwelling). Our driver knew the 
 owner, an Englishman. We met him after passing his " shack " and 
 had some talk with him. He evidently came of gentle stock, but 
 he said he liked the life ; he was quite alone, not a soul within miles 
 of him. "We go out occasionly," he said. I asked him what he 
 meant by "going out?" " Oh," he said, "when I save a certain 
 amount from the sale of cattle (he had a small ranch), I go to Eng- 
 land and remain as long as my money lasts, then I come in again." 
 We were told that this was the case with many of the joung men 
 settled and living alone in these mountains. 
 
 We reached what had been known as Taynton's ranch, situated 
 near the head of the Upper Columbia Lake, it is now the property 
 of our driver — his father, mother and sister are living on it, they 
 seemed respectable honest people, but did not quite like living out 
 of civilized life — we were treated to the tenderest of venison steak 
 and fresh milk, luxuries which we prized most highly. About six 
 miles further on are the canal flats and Mr. Baillie Grohman's Canal. 
 We arrived there about five o'clock, and as we decided not to pro- 
 ceed any further that day, we tried the fishing on the Kootenay, which 
 is here a beautiful and rapid river with a shingly bottom ; but we 
 were not successful, we evidently had not the right flies, but ours was 
 the experience of many. The streams tributary to the Kootenay 
 have more fish in them, or perhaps it would be more correct to say 
 that more fish are caught in them. We had an opportunity of in- 
 specting Mr. Bailile Grohman's canal, which has not yet been brought 
 into requisition, nor as far as we could see or learn is it ever likely 
 to be disturbed by the rush of waters through its wooden locks. 
 
 The distance between the Kootenay, where it rushes past the 
 
we 
 
 was 
 
 the 
 
 head of the catial and the upper Columbia Lake where the Columbia 
 River takes its rise, is less than two miles. The purpose for which 
 this canal is made appears to be to make navigation continuous 
 by connecting the waters of these two great rivers at this place, now 
 called Canal Flats. 
 
 The navigation of the Kootenay at present is scarcely safe, even 
 for canoes, until it reaches withm a short distance of the inter- 
 national boundary. The cost for making it navigable for craft 
 suitable for canal navigation must be very considerable ; then there is 
 no visible connection with the Columbia Lake at the lower end of 
 the canal, which would have to be done at further cost, and when 
 all this is done the Columbia would remain unfit for navigation as 
 far down as Windermere, or even below, in order to have uninter- 
 rupted navigation as far as Golden. And until all this is done, Mr. 
 Grohman's canal is utterly useless and likely to remain so. We were 
 informed that the Government of British Columbia was so ill-advised 
 as to make a grant of most of the bottom lands along the rivers as 
 a consideration to Mr. Grohman's company for building the canal, 
 the cost of which we were informed was between thirty and forty 
 thousand dollars. How much better it would have been in the 
 public interest to have sold this land to Mr. Grohman's company for 
 the amount which is said to have been expended on this work and 
 have the money paid into the Provincial treasury. It is scarcely 
 credible that the government should have been so ill-advised as to 
 part with these lands until they were satisfied by the report of a com- 
 petent engineer that the canal would be of some public utility, and 
 it is to be hoped for the governments own credit that it has not 
 done so. 
 
 Attention may be drawn to the remarkable fact that the two 
 great rivers, the Kootenay and the Columbia, at their source, flow in 
 opposite directions, the Kootenay flowing in a southerly and the 
 Columbia in a northerly direction. A reference to the map ot 
 British Columbia will show that the Kootenay takes its rise in the 
 Rockies, flows to the south and passes within less than two miles of 
 the upper Columbia Lake, the head waters of the Columbia River, 
 as above stated, but avoids a junction with it and flows on past the 
 international boundary into United States territory, and then turns 
 back northward again into British territory until it reaches Kootenay 
 Lake ; while the Columbia, whose head waters are the Upper 
 
■^H^^^^»" 
 
 n 
 
 i6 
 
 Columbia Lake, flows northward past Golden, and at Big Bend turns 
 southward until it reaches the Arrow Lakes, whence it torsakes British 
 territory and flows into that of the United States. These two great 
 rivers would thus have encircled the land occupied by the Selkirks, 
 and make an island of a large slice of British Columbia, but for the 
 narrow strip of land about two miles in width at Canal Flats. 
 
 The hotel at Canal Flats belongs to Mr. Brownrigg, rather large 
 for the place now, but was required during the construction of the 
 canal. Charlie took some photographs here, not so successful as 
 could be wished ; on opening the camera he found it in a demoralized 
 state. It was smashed in the journey. We started about 8,30, 
 and had one saddle horse, " Boston," besides the wagon, which we 
 were to ride by turns until we reached Fort Steel, where we had to 
 leave the wagon and travel the rest of the journey with pack horses. 
 Our destination this day was Hanson's. We crossed the Kootenay, 
 a short distance beyond the flats, over a fairly good bridge, 
 leaving the river on our right and to the west ot the trail, until we 
 reached Fort Steel. There was a shower of rain in the morning, the 
 first we had, but scarcely enough to lay the dust. The road was 
 through a forest of yellow pines, tamaracks, and douglas firs, (here an 
 inferior tree). The tamaracks were very large and symmetrical in 
 shape, tapering up gradually to a sharp point at the top, and almost 
 entirely free of limbs, resembling the mast of a large ship. We 
 noticed from the fallen trees that the wood of the yellow pine and 
 tamarack was of a brittle character, as on falling they were broken 
 intomany pieces. We saw no white pines and but few hardwood trees. 
 
 We stopped for lunch at Sheep's Creek, having travelled about 
 20 miles. We arrived at Hanson's about 6 o'clock. Mr. Hanson 
 was away, but his partner, Mr. Herman Von Hardell, was in charge. 
 He is thoroughly the German in appeararice md character, and 
 was most civil and obliging. He had been a soldier in the Franco- 
 German war. 
 
 Their vegetable garden was excellent, and their crops of grain, 
 barley, wheat and oats, were fair. The streams coming down the 
 mountain were easily diverted through trenches for irrigation, without 
 which neither grain or vegetables can be grown. Next morning 
 Herman Von Hardel and Willie went out with their guns, but were 
 not very successful. We started for Fort Steel about 9 a. m., 
 arriving there at about one o'clock, here we took pack horses for 
 
17 
 
 •3°. 
 
 the rest of the journey. We required six horses, two for our packs 
 and four for ourselves, including Cameron, our man of all work. The 
 horses were brought from the stable or field, when a selection was 
 made. Their names were Vowel, Boston, Dynamite, Nick, Johnny 
 and Dodge. Vowel was allotted to me, Boston to Willie, Dynamite 
 to Cameron, Dodge to Charlie, and the other two were made the 
 pack horses. After our traps, tents, etc., were fastened on to the 
 pack horses — work requiring some skill and experience — we got 
 under way about 3 o'clock. While getting our horses ready for the 
 start we had an opportunity of seeing what there was to see at Fort 
 Steel. There is a store of goods owned by Mr. Galbraith, formerly 
 member of the Provincial Legislature. He has been replaced by Col. 
 Baker. A company of the mounted police had been stationed here, 
 but have been removed, owing to a misunderstanding between the 
 Dominion and Provincial Governments, or because they were no 
 longer required. The Indians are said to be as peaceable and law 
 abiding as the whites. There are few whites here, unless it be at 
 Wild Horse Creek, a gorge in the mountains, a short distance off, 
 where placer-mining for gold was carried on successfully for some 
 years, and is still carried on, but on a diminished scale, mostly by 
 Chinamen, 
 
 The Crow's Nest Pass was pointed out in an easterly direction 
 n the mountains close by. Should a railway be constructed 
 through it, the line must pass near Fort Steel. The Catholic mission 
 on the St. Mary's River, is but a short distance off. There is an 
 Indian village of considerable size at this mission, and the Indians, 
 Father Cocola (whom we afterwards met on our journey), informed 
 us, are good Christians, and of a highly moral character, doubtless 
 largely due to his own influence and teaching. We left Fort Steel 
 about 3 o'clock, all mounted. There is a capital bridge over the 
 Kootenay, which we crossed. Our destination that afternoon was 
 Cranbrook, Col. Baker's ranch. The trail was fairly good, and we 
 made a good start, arriving at our destination about half-past five. 
 
 We approached Cranbrook through a park like forest of yellow 
 pines, tamaracks, etc., so open and free from underbrush that we 
 could easily ride through it in any direction, and as we approached 
 the open prairie in front of the dwelling, several hundred acres in 
 extent, the sun shining on the golden grain, which was being 
 harvested, the place looked exceedingly well and attractive. 
 
i8 
 
 Col. Baker was absent in England, Capt. Armstrong gave us a 
 letter ot introduction to his manager, Mr. French, to whose kit Jnes& 
 and courtesy we felt much indebted. We spent a very pleasant 
 evening with him and twc young English gentlemen, who were living 
 'vith him on the ranch. The Colonel had an excellent store lull of 
 supplies, and we replenished our needs for the rest of the journey.. 
 The ranche is the largest in this district of country, we believe. 
 We saw a considerable number of cattle and horses. Crops of rr jts 
 and grain can be grown by means of irrigation, and they were fairly 
 good this season, Mr. French informed us. We left next morning, 
 much refreshed for our journey. One of the young Englishmen- 
 had recently been over the route, and gave us some useful informa- 
 tion about the country we had to traverse. We had a rough and 
 difficult trail before us, on the sides of steep mountains, rocky and 
 full of fallen trees. Our weather, so far, could not be more favor- 
 able — bright and clear, but with heavy frosts after the sun went down. 
 We were told to expect rain as soon as we reached Moyie Lake and 
 River country. It is known, as the name Moyie implies, as the wet. 
 or rainy country. 
 
 We stopped at Peavine Johnson's, a small prairie, to rearrange 
 " Nick's " pack. Nick is a black horse whose character is proving 
 to have a striking resemblance to hi;> name and color. This morn- 
 ing he was very perverse and w aid leave the trail and get under 
 or over fallen trees, evidently for the purpose of getting rid of his. 
 load. He is a knowing and intelligent horse and quite up to a 
 thing oi two. After fixing his pack again, and eating some 
 luncheon, we went on and soon reached Moyie Lake. This lake 
 is in a basin between steep mountains. Our tiack followed the 
 one to the east of it, and was the steepest of the two — at least it 
 looked so to us — running sheer down to the waters of the lake. 
 The trail was at a dizzy height, many hundred feet above, and as 
 we trudged along, stones and boulders went bounding down. The 
 lake is about ten miles long and we were relieved when we reached 
 the end. Here the Moyie River takes its rise ; our course will 
 follow its valley for the next few days. We crossed it on a frait 
 bridge where it leaves the lake. I was frightfully done up and 
 weary when we reached a camping place a few miles ahead — where 
 there is a small prairie. As we carry no food for our horses it is 
 absolutely necessary to v:amp where food and water can be had for 
 
if 
 
 them. They were as weary as ourselves. Willie was wonderfull/ 
 vigorous, but Charlie, who had not been quite well for some time 
 past, was very ill during the night. We slept in our tent for the 
 first time here. Cameron and Willie were up early getting ti.e 
 horses and their packs ready, and we got under way about 8 o'clock. 
 We had the Moyie River to our left and a range of lofty mountains 
 to our right. These mountains looked as if some one had been 
 blasting for minerals at their summits. An avalanche of rock 
 broken into pieces large and small, covered their sides down to 
 their base. The trail was covered with them, consisted, in fact, 
 of these broken rocks and stones. Charlie called it ghastly ; it 
 answered well to the description of the sort of trail which our young 
 English friend at Col. Baker's had led us to expect. We did not 
 find camping ground sufificiently attractive to stop for luncheon. 
 We only stopped for a few minutes rest on logs and stumps of 
 trees to discuss the situation, so we went on arriving at the 
 Junction about 6 o'clock — so named from there being here two 
 trails, one branching off in a north-westerly direction towards the 
 Toad mountains, the other, which we are following, in a southerly 
 direction. Our camping ground, although it looked attractive on 
 a turn on the Moyie River, was disappointing. The pasturage was 
 very bare and we lelt that our horses would be almost supperless. 
 When the sun went down it began to freeze and everything was 
 frozen stiff in the ^lorning. We spent the most comfortless night 
 of our journey in our tent here. We had some apprehension that 
 the horses might stray away owing to the poor pasturage ; they did 
 not, however, travel far away from the camping grounds. The 
 Moyie was reported to us as swarming with fish. The boys threw 
 their lines, but without success. The whereabouts of the swarms 
 could rot be traced ! 
 
 Early next morning we heard human voices on the trail close 
 to our camp. Cameron rushed out to see who it was and hailed 
 them, and found it was Father Cocola and two Indians, who were 
 travelling with him as his ser^uiits. He was going to the Kootenay 
 bottoms. Charlie and I followed them as soon as we swallowed 
 some tea and biscuits — we could not eat any other food. We ' 
 came up to Father Cocola and his Indians before we reached the ' 
 Round Prairie, 20 miles from our camping grounds of the night , 
 before. The trail up to this point was equally ghastly with that of 
 
^^ 
 
 
 < 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 < 
 
fl 
 
 
 'A 
 
 t— 
 
 < 
 
 H 
 I? 
 P 
 O 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 « 
 
 ^1 
 
 the day before, the only difference was that these long reaches of 
 rock and stone were now burnt forests and fallen trees. The 
 day became hot when the sun rose, and when we reached the 
 Round Prairie we were almost ready to drop and did drop from 
 our horses. Father Cocola kindly order'^d his Indians to take 
 charge of our horses. I took shelter under the shade of a bush 
 from the burning sun. Father Cocola, acting the part of the 
 good Samaritan, made a cup of excellent coffee for me. I thought 
 it the finest and best coffee I had ever tasted. I found the 
 Father most interesting. He was in the mountains when the C. 
 P. R. was building. He is an accomplished linguist, speaking 
 Indian (variou"- dialects), English, French, Itslian and Spanish. 
 His influenrj over the rough human elemen: employed on the 
 works, consisting of Spanish, Italian, French, American and English, 
 did much good. He told us that he frequently overheard them in 
 their own language plotting mischief, and that on such occafions he 
 old them that it would be his duty to expose them ; that, unless they 
 promised to desist and abandon their wicked designs he would expose 
 them to the authoiities, chat is such authority as existed in the moun- 
 tain at that time. " They respected my calling," he said, " and I could 
 say many things to them with impunity, and I believe,that I was the 
 means of preventing outbreaks, and the C. P. R. appreciated my 
 services in every way that they could, and I am favored with a pass 
 on their line, which I on my part, he said, also appreciate." We 
 were just on the point of startmg when we heard the sound of 
 the cow-bell attached to Nick's neck for the purpose of discover- 
 ing his whereabouts in case he took it into his wicked head to 
 stray r siy from the right path, and Willie and Cameron, much to 
 entered the Round Prairie. We feared that some 
 befallen them, as they were so long in putting in an 
 and they, on their part, were also uneasy about us. 
 aot understand how we got so far ahead of them and 
 
 .'!kr, 
 
 our 
 
 dis ?ti • r i'- 
 ?.ppeai»; . .;. 
 They couxd 
 
 feared we had taken the wrong trail. VVe are now 17 mileo from 
 the Kootenay bottom, and we followed the Father on our way 
 there. The trail was not so full of stones and rocks, but it was 
 made up for by fallen trees, the ascent and descent of precipitous 
 hills — the foot hills of the mountams — and we arrived at Cross- 
 marrv ranch, Kootenay bottom, about half past six o'clock, so tired 
 thai «ii f ouM scarcely move after dismounting. Here we had the satis- 
 
23 
 
 faction of knowing that there is plenty ot rich pasture for our horses. 
 We are now across the international boundary and in Idaho. 
 
 The Kootenay bottom is so called from being overflown every 
 spring with the waters of the Kootenay, which is here a magnifi- 
 cent river. In the spring and early summer it becomes swollen 
 with the melting snow and ice from the surrounding mountains, 
 causing it to overflow its banks, these bottoms then become a lake. 
 
 The climate is so dry that the waters soon recede and the 
 lands dry up, which then becomes a beautiful prairie, with plenty 
 of rich grass, and the cattle belonging to the various ranchers 
 roam at will over it. The widening of the outlet between Kootenay 
 lake and the lower Arrow lakes would no doubt largely prevent the 
 annual flooding of these bottom lands, but, cut bono, ihe cost must 
 be considerable, and the uestion suggests itself, would it pay? 
 
 It is proposed to cor^l i short railway between the Arrow 
 
 lakes at Sproat's Landing anv. dson on Lake Kootenay. This 
 would serve during open navigation to divert a portion of the ores 
 mined in the Toad Mountain district to Revelstoke, which at 
 present are carried to Bonner's Ferry and thence to Kootenai 
 Station on the line of Northern Pacific Railway. The construction 
 of a railway f*oni Revelstoke to this mining centre would be much 
 more effectual in developing these mining industries. The distance 
 's 70 to 80 miles. The ores could be carried all the year round to 
 our own smelting works, and secure their passage through Canadian 
 territory, instead of being smelted in Montana and carried through 
 United States territory as at present. 
 
 Grossman's house is on the side of a hill overlooking the 
 Kootenay bottom, now an extensive prairie, his and cattle belonging 
 to other ranchers feeding on it as far as the eye could reach. We 
 walked up to the house, but found no one there. Mrs. Grossman 
 came soon afterwards ; she had arrived from Kootenay. She is the 
 first white woman we have seen since leaving Windermere. We 
 were most hospitably welcomed, and after being treated to an excel- 
 lent supper. Father Cocola, Willie, Gharlie, and I slept in our 
 blankets on the floor ; we preferred this to putting up our tents, we 
 were so tired. After breakfasting in the morning we bid good-bye 
 to Mrs. Grossman, wi .\ many thanks for her kindness. 
 
 We gathered together on the " bottom," before starting. Father 
 Gocola's Indians and his horses, Willie, Gharlie and I with Gameron 
 
r; 
 
23 
 
 . V I 
 
 and our horses. Charlie prepared his camera to photograph the 
 group, but owing to the accident, already alluded to, he 
 had no great confidence that the result would be satisfactory. 
 We then started on our journey to Bonner's Ferry, distant 
 about 24 miles. The trail runs on the prairie bottom, and we were 
 able to gallop along the plain. There are several trails and we unfor- 
 tunately took the wrong one ; we met a band of Indians who put us 
 right, and we had te retrace our steps, losing 5 o*- 6 miles, which was 
 rather provoking. We followed the trail on the " bottom " until we 
 reached the Ferry ; but before reaching it we found that the Kootenay 
 River was on our right ; this puzzled us, as we had not crossed it since 
 we passed the bridge over it at Fort Steel where we were landed on 
 its right, and how we managed now to be on its left, without again 
 crossing it, was a mystery until we looked at the map; we then saw 
 that it had evidently made faster time than we had done ; it flowed 
 past us on our left, reaching Bonner's Ferry and was now on its way 
 back again to British territory. We kept on the bottom, skirting the 
 mountain. As we were nearing Bonner's Ferry, Cameron's horse 
 disappeared in a slough, his back only being visible, he managed 
 however to plunge out again. After being duly warned, we ascended 
 the side of the mountain so as to avoid a similar fate. At this place 
 we saw the largest family of frogs we had ever seen ; there must have 
 'been, without exaggeration, over a thousand in the family. 
 
 We reached Bonner's (now Fry's) Ferry about five o'clock with 
 a feeling of thankfulness that our journey on the back of Indian 
 ponies with Mexican saddles was over and without any mishap to our- 
 selves or our horses, and we parted from them — including "Nick" 
 and our man Cameron — not without regret. Horses and men after 
 travelling and associating together, as it were, day and night for 
 some time, become attached, and following the example of a 
 distinguished man (Mr. Fleming, C. £.), under somewhat similar 
 circumstances, we bid them an affectionate farewell, wishing them 
 a paradise of pasture for the rest of their lives. 
 
 We have endured some hardships in making the journey 
 across British Columbia, through mountain and glen, from Golden 
 to this point, but feel that we are well rewarded in having been 
 able to travel through so interesting and picturesque a country. 
 
 Our trail at times consisting for miles wholly of rock and 
 stones, following the base and sides of mountains, might be termed 
 
■^ 
 
 '1 
 
 »4 
 
 dangerous ; then through burnt forests and fallen trees for 
 miles, making travelling almost impossible; then the scene would 
 change and we w^ould pass through an avenue of magnificent trees^ 
 with a dense forest on each side; then again through an open 
 glen, between mountain, river and lake. The toot hills ascending^ 
 from the base of the mountain, in a terrace-like form, many 
 hundred feet up their sides, with the sun shining brightly, anything 
 more beautiful cannot be imagined. The tepees of bands of 
 Indians were to be seen encamped on the lovely prairie, beside 
 the banks of rivers, greatly adding to the beauties of the 
 scene. A sunset as seen through the wilderness in these mountains 
 and valleys, compared with the finest paintings by the best artists, 
 is as sunlight is to moonlight, and worthy to be remembered and 
 treasured in ones memory for ever. 
 
 The enquiry has been made of us since our return whether 
 the region of country in British Columbia, visited by us, is a fit and 
 desirable country for emigrants to go to. The reply is that should 
 the seekers after gold and silver in the various districts prospected, 
 viz., Spillamacheen, Wild Horse Creek, Toad Mountains, etc., be 
 rewarded by finds of paying minerals, there is arable land enough 
 in the valleys and glens along with the ranching country to furnish 
 food for a considerable population of miners. The climate is 
 undoubtedly a healthy one, but so dry that the arable land avail- 
 able tor the growith of vegetables and grain requires to be 
 irrigated. This is cheaply done by directing the mountain streams 
 in small trenches through flats below. 
 
 The Kootenay after passing the international boundary into 
 Montana returns through Idaho, past Bonner's Ferry, flowing 
 northward into British territory again. It is here a navigable and 
 majestic river, about 500 feet wide. We decided on crossing to 
 the opposite (south) side, but there was no ferry boat to be had. 
 Willie managed to get hold of a skiff into which we tumbled our- 
 selves and our traps, and he and Charlie paddled across. 
 
 The accommodation looked much more inviting at a distance 
 than we found it to be on closer inspection. The hotel is built 
 of logs, a fair sized building, one story and a half in height. The 
 population of the place was composed of freighters, teamsters, 
 miners and prospectors, with a fair sprinkling of loafers indulging in 
 drinking, tobacco chewing, spitting and profane language. There was 
 
as 
 
 a smaller wooden building, labelled, on a rough plank nailed over 
 the door, "Saloon." The population seemed to be continually 
 passing in and coming out feeling better. It was a rough, but not 
 illnatured community, indulging in a good deal of banter between 
 themselves, and they seemed as airy and contented with their lot 
 as those whose surroundings are of a more comfortable and refined 
 character, but the life of the greater number must be short if a 
 merry one. Intemperance, exposure in all kinds of weather and 
 places will surely bring a day of reckoning. 
 
 We were informed by the landlord, (also the owner of the 
 stage line to Kootenay), that the stage would start the following 
 forenoon about eleven o'clock, but it drove up to the door about 
 9 a. m. Willie and Charlie, in the meantime, had started for the 
 other side of the river for an overcoat which had been left behind, 
 and were half way across when I hailed them to come back, and we 
 took a seat in the stage — a fairly comfortable one. The distance to 
 Kootenay, a station on the N. P. R., is 32 miles. The road recently 
 made is not bad. We stopped half way for luncheon, arriving :^t our 
 destination about 5.30 p. m. The buildings in Kootenay consisted 
 mainly of saloons, where the game of poker appeared to be 
 continually played, but in a quiet and orderly way. We saw no 
 drunken men or rowdyism of any sort. Our landlord was a most 
 obliging, civil fellow, his house respectable and clean, there 
 was no bar, the saloons had a monoply of them. We met here a 
 Prince Edward Islander of Highland descent. His appearance 
 was anything but healthy. He had not been well for some time^ 
 but could not find out what was the matter. He told us that his 
 wages were rather more than he could get at home, but that his 
 expenses were greater. The chances of a return to his native land 
 for health and the comforts of home are rather good. At the station 
 we observed a quantity of ores from the Toad Mountain district 
 ready to be forwarded by the Northern Pacific Railway. Our train 
 for the East was due to arrive at 4.30 a. m. It was about two 
 hours late, and when it arrived we were rejoiced to get on board a 
 railroad train again. 
 
 The train was a long one and consisted of three Pullmans, 
 the dining car, a first-class smoking and several colonist cars. 
 We secured places in the last Pullman. It cannot be denied that 
 these cars are comfortable, but there is something that is tawdry 
 
26 
 
 and bizarre in their fittings as compared with the neatness and 
 elegance of the C. P. R. sleepers. When breakfast was announced 
 in the dining car we lost no time in finding our way there. The 
 bill-of-fare was everything that could be desired and the breakfast 
 a good one. We afterwards found the dinner equally good, but 
 marred by the waiting which was indifferent. 
 
 This morning we passed Pend d'Oreille Lake and Clarke's Forks 
 of the Columbia — it was like meeting an old friend. The last 
 glimpse we had of the Columbia was at the Canal Flats. It was 
 then proceeding northward from the Upper Columbia Lake and 
 has travelled beyond latitude 52° and between longitudes 118° and 
 119", making a sudden turn southward until it reaches Washing- 
 ton Territory from whence it sends a branch eastward into Idaho, 
 and we renew our acquaintance with it here under the name of 
 Clarke's Fork of the Columbia. 
 
 Going East the line leaves Idaho and enters Montana, which 
 until now has only been one the of Territories. The election of a 
 governor and other officials took place during our visit, and it 
 is now promoted to the dignity of statehood, and has become one 
 of the States of the Union. The elections were made, we 
 were told, after the Australian system, and were conducted in the 
 same quiet and orderly manner as our own in Canada. Montana, 
 to quote from the guide books, "now leads all the States and 
 *' Territories in the production of gold and silver and copper, her 
 " annual output exceeding thirty millions of dollars. The principal 
 ** mining camps are on the slopes of the main divide of the Rocky 
 ** mountains, near Helena and Butte, also on the flanks of Belt 
 *' mountains, the Bitter Root range, etc." 
 
 Helena is on the main line of the N. P. R., and from the 
 glimpse which we had of it in passing it presented a fine appear- 
 ance. The population is said to exceed ten thousand. There is 
 a branch from Helena to Butte, a distance of about fifty miles. 
 Butte, at the present time, is said to be a veritable hive of mining 
 industry exceeding anything that has ever before been witnessed in 
 any part of the world. 
 
 On reaching Livingston we left the train and remained there 
 until next morning, when we left for the Yellowstone National Park. 
 There is a branch line from Livingston to Cinnabar, whence 
 tourists are conveyed by stage coaches to the Park. 
 
ess and 
 lounced 
 e. The 
 treakfast 
 )od, but 
 
 ;'s Forks 
 rhe last 
 It was 
 ike and 
 [1 8° and 
 Vashing- 
 Idaho, 
 lame of 
 
 a, which 
 tion of a 
 , and it 
 ome one 
 lade, we 
 i in the 
 flontana, 
 ites and 
 )per, her 
 
 irincipal 
 |e Rocky 
 
 of Belt 
 
 fom the 
 appear- 
 'here is 
 
 |y miles. 
 
 mining 
 
 jssed in 
 
 ;d there 
 
 x\ Park. 
 
 I whence 
 
 27 
 
 " Park " is a misnomer as applied to the Yellowstone, which is 
 a territory containing about 4,000 square miles. Roads have been 
 made through a great portion of it by the United States government, 
 and a squadron of cavalry is stationed there during the season to 
 keep order and to prevent any violation of the rules and regula- 
 tions. One of the rules is as follows : 
 
 " Hunting, capturing, injuring or killing any bird or animal 
 within the Park is prohibited. The outfits of persons found 
 hunting or in the possession of game, killed in the Park, will be 
 subject to seizure and confiscation." Game and wild animals ot 
 almost every description are plentiful, and becoming more so every 
 year in consequence of this rule. 
 
 The distance between Cinnabar and the entrance to the 
 Park at Mammoth Hot Springs is about six miles, where we arrived 
 about two o'clock. We decided to engage a carriage and pair 
 with a driver, rather than follow the usual custom of driving through 
 the Park in a stage full of tourists. The grand tour of the Park, 
 as a rule, takes four or five days. We had not so much time to 
 spare — only three days — and we started immediately after our 
 arrival. Our driver was very intelligent and entertaining. We 
 reached Norris Geyser Basin about six o'clock and stopped for 
 the night. We started early the next morning for the Grand 
 Canon. We were determined not to miss seeing this great 
 natural wonder, undoubtedly the finest and grandest sight in this 
 wonderful place. It is said, and we believe it to be, the grandest 
 canon in the world. We quote the language ot an eloquent 
 writer describing it: 
 
 " Take your stand upon that jutting rock, clinging to it well 
 meanwhile, and being very sure of your footing — for your head will 
 surely grow dizzy — and there opens before you one of the most 
 stupendous scenes of nature. The Lower Falls and the awful canon 
 of the Yellowstone. And now where shall I begin and how shall T 
 in any way describe this tremendous sight, its overpowering 
 grandeur, and at the same time, its mexpressible beauty ? Look 
 yonder ! There are the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone. They are 
 not the grandest in the world, but there are none more beautiful. 
 There is not the breath and dash of Niagara, nor is there the 
 enormous depth of leap of some of the falls of the Yosemite, 
 but there is majesty of its own, and beauty, too. On either side 
 
•8 
 
 !■: I 
 
 are pinnacles of sculptured rock, there, where the rock opens for the 
 river, its water is compressed from a width of 200 feet, above the upper 
 and lower falls, to 100 feet where it plunges. The shelf of rock 
 over which it leaps is absolutely level. The waters seem to wait a 
 moment on its verge, then it passes with a single bound of 300 feet 
 into the gorge below ; it is a sheer, unbroken, compact, shining 
 mass of silver foam. But your eyes are all the time distracted 
 from the fall itself, beautiful as it is, to its marvellous setting, to the 
 surpassing, overmastering canon into which the river leaps and 
 through which it flows, dwindling to but a foaming ribbon there 
 in its appaling depths. These rocky sides are almost perpendicular, 
 indeed, in many places, the boiling springs have gouged them out so 
 as to leave overhanging cliffs and tables at the top. Take a stone and 
 throw it over, you must wait long before you hear it strike. Nothing 
 more awful have I ever seen than the yawning of that chasm. 
 The water dashing there, as in a kind of agony, against those rocks 
 you cannot hear ; the mighty distance lays its finger of silence on 
 its white lips. And that is not all, you are fascinated by the 
 magnificent opulence of color — the whole gorge flames. It is as 
 though rainbows had fallen out of the sky and hung there like 
 banners, etc." 
 
 The above is a fine and not overdrawn pen and ink picture 
 of the Grand Canon, 
 
 We met a German lady there clinging to the side of Look-out 
 Point. She informed us that she was so fascinated with it that she 
 had been paying daily visits for a week, and imagined herself in a 
 Berlin theatre, peopling the scene with actors and spectators. We 
 regretted much not having more time at our command to see 
 more of it. We returned to the Norris' Geyser Basin, arriving there 
 about five o'clock, and had plenty of time to see this valley boiling 
 over in every direction with Geysers, hot and sulphurous spnngs^ 
 and steam issuing from the ground with a loud hissing noise as from 
 an ocean steamer. No scene could be more suggestive of Dante's 
 Inferno. On our return to the hotel we found the squadron of 
 United States Cavalry (which had been in charge of the Park) en- 
 camped, making ready for their departure. The season is now over, 
 and their watchful care is no longer required. We met the officer 
 in command at the hotel. He was curious to know what the Cana- 
 dians thought about annexation. We told him that we thought they 
 
K opens for the 
 bove the upper 
 shelf of rock 
 seem to wait a 
 id of 300 feet 
 npact, shining 
 nc distracted 
 setting, to the 
 er leaps and 
 ribbon there 
 •erpendicular, 
 1 them out so 
 e a stone and 
 ^e. Nothing 
 that chasm. 
 t those rocks 
 )f silence on 
 ated by the 
 !• It is as 
 f there like 
 
 ink picture 
 
 f Look-out 
 it that she 
 lerself in a 
 itors. We 
 nd to see 
 iving there 
 ley boiling 
 is sprmgs,. 
 se as from 
 )f Dante's 
 uadron of 
 Park) en- 
 now over, 
 he officer 
 the Cana- 
 ught they 
 
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 55 
 
 ■were quite content to leave " well " alone, that we had perfect 
 freedom., with security ; that our laws, which were enacted by the 
 will of the people, were administered with justice and purity by our 
 courts. That our judges, appointed for I'fe by the Crown, and not 
 elected, were men of ability and high character, that Canada pes 
 sessed great possibilities, and that we had faith in our ability to 
 develop them. He, like most Americans, believe that they have a 
 grievance against Canada in harboring their " uoodlers." I pointed 
 out to him that if we harbored their rascals, they, in like manner, har- 
 bored ours ; that it the present state of our international laws was 
 defective, the sin lay at their door not ours ; that we have been all 
 along ready to make a treaty, and as a matter of fact a treaty had been 
 negotiated by one of their ministers accredited to the British govern- 
 ment in London, but their Senate refused to ratify it. He seemed to 
 be quite unaware of this fact. His squadron got the start of us next 
 morning, and were under way before we were. The roads were very 
 dusty, and when we caught up to them we got the benefit of their 
 dust, which aiosc in clouds. He very courteously commanded them 
 to fall out to enable us to pass them, for which we were most grate- 
 ful. The road passed close to the bide of Beaver Lake, so-called 
 from having been formed by the beavers. Flocks of wild geese and 
 ducks were sailing gracefully over its waters. They were not in the 
 least alarmed at our presence, though so near them, a proof that the 
 rules and regulations already alluded to are properly observed. Not 
 a shot is ever allowed to be fired at them. Further on we were 
 shevn a beaver dam, constructed within a short time by these saga- 
 cious animals ; it was most skillfully and well constructed, answer- 
 ing its purpose perfectly. There also close by is a spring of beauti- 
 fully clear, cold water, issuing from the side of a mountain. We 
 drank the water, whic^ tastes very much like Appollinaris, and is 
 known as the Appollinaris Springs. Charlie handed a cupful of 
 the water to our driver, saying, " there is enough to last vou for the 
 rest of the season;" to which the ready reply was, " Vou blasted 
 Englishman, you give yourself away every time you speak." Charlie 
 had been in England at school for some years, and had just returned. 
 We reached Mammotl Hot Springs about noon, and as the 
 stage for Cinnabar did not leave for tv,'u or three hours later, we 
 ^ had time to make a pretty thorough survey of these interesting works, 
 which may well be so termed, as terraces in various forms and 
 
r:^ 
 
 % 
 
 30 
 
 sizos are continuously being created by these hot springs. The 
 water of these boiling springs is alkaline aud holds silica in solution, 
 and tne silica is deposited about the spring, thus a mound and tube 
 are gradually built, increasing in size as the process continues. We 
 here made the acquaintance of Dr. Perkins, He had been in the 
 Park for a much longer period than we have been, and kindly pointed 
 out many interesting spots which otherwise we should have missed. 
 We afterwards travelled together as (ar as Minneapolis. 
 
 We have been but a part of three days in this wonderful park. 
 It would take at least a whole week to have even a cursory look at 
 all the notable places of interest within its limits. It is a large terri- 
 tory, containing within its boundaries great forests, rivers, lakes and 
 mountains. There are thirty points whose altitudes range from six 
 to ten thousand feet above sea level. We can therefore but feel 
 that we have only had a glimpse of a small part of it. 
 
 We left by stage coach, arriving at Cinnabar about four o'clock, 
 and at Livingstone again a little alter six, and went to the '* Alber- 
 marle " for dinner. The through train from the Pacific Coast passes 
 Livingstone in the middle of the night, and a Pulman car is placed 
 on a siding for the convenience of tourists visiting the Park. It is 
 hitched on to the express as it passes through. 
 
 After dinner we walked about to see the lions of Livingstone, 
 but not with the expectation of seeing a real live lion. We went 
 into an attractive looking fur store to look at some fine horns, 
 buffalo heads, bear robes, etc., which we saw through the windows. 
 After being there a short time, the owner of the place brought out 
 from a room in the rear a mountain lion — a good sized one — at the 
 same time calling out for his dog '* Bruce." The lion was made to 
 lay on the floor, and Bruce along side of him. Pieces of raw beef 
 were placed first on the lion's head, which Bruce was ordered to eat, 
 the lion submitting with an angry growl. This was repeated several 
 times ; then the operation was reversed, the beef placed on Bruce's 
 head and the lion ordered to partake thereof. Bruce did not seem 
 to like the job and was evidently well pleased when the performance 
 was over. The lion after being made to go through some niore 
 performances was taken back to his own quarters af.ain, much to 
 Bruce's relief, as well as most of the spectators, f/f whom there 
 were a good many before the exhibition was over. The exhibitor 
 and owner of the place wa? a young man with a remarkably keen 
 
s. The 
 lolution, 
 ,nd tube 
 IS. We 
 n in the 
 pointed 
 missed. 
 
 ful park, 
 look at 
 rge terri- 
 ikes and 
 from six 
 but feel 
 
 ■ o'clock^ 
 " Alber- 
 st passes 
 is placed 
 k. It is 
 
 ngstone» 
 
 We went 
 
 B horns, 
 
 windows. 
 
 light out 
 
 —at the 
 
 made to 
 
 aw beef 
 
 i to eat, 
 
 several 
 
 Bruce's 
 
 ot seem 
 
 rmance 
 
 e more 
 
 luch to 
 
 there 
 
 hibitor 
 
 ly keen 
 
 pair of eyes in his head. We had faith in the power and influence 
 of those flashing eyes over the ferocious brute, and had not any 
 apprehension of danger. He was evidently brave and plucky, and 
 had our purses been more abundantly lined we should have relieved 
 him of some of his beautiful furs. 
 
 We went to bed in the Pulman about ten. Willie had previ- 
 ously tipped the colored porter, who immediately went for a " square 
 meal." He said that bis car came west about empty and that tips 
 and square meals were in sympathy with each other. The following 
 day we passed through the country called " The Bad Lands," and it 
 is dreary and barren looking enough to be so called. We did not 
 see what could be called good agricultural land until the valley of 
 the Missouri was reached, after which the country all the way to St. 
 Paul and Minneapolis may be compared with our own Northwest 
 prairie country. We rejoiced on reaching the Ryan House in St. 
 Paul, one of those palace hotels to be found in all the large cities in 
 the Western States. Luxurious appartments were assigned to us, 
 and we had the first satisfactory night's rest for weeks past. 
 
 St. Paul and Minneapolis are said each to contain over two 
 hundred thousand inhabitants, and so close together that one may 
 be said to be a suburb of the other, and with the present rate of 
 progress the two will soon become one great city, rivalling Chicago. 
 St. Paul, in point of location, surpasses Minneapolis. It is built on 
 high ground, with the Missisippi river flowing at its f^et. The high 
 ground on which the palatial residences of the mil. nirs are built 
 commands a fine ,"iw of the river and surrounding country. Mr. 
 Hill, whose familiar name is Jim Hill (every notable man in this 
 country has a familiar name), the president of the St. Paul, Minnt. 
 apolis and Manitoba Railway, is building a mansion which promises 
 to surpass all the others in grandeur. 
 
 We went to Minneapolis to see the far famed roller flour mills, 
 and'were permitted to go through the Pillsbury mill "A." A printed 
 card was handed to us containing the following facts : 
 
 Fact r. — That it is the eighth wonder of the world. 
 
 Fact 2. — That it grinds 9,000,000 bushels of wheat yearly. 
 
 Fact 3. — That it has a capacity of 700,000 barrels daily. 
 * Fact 4. — It makes more flour than any other two mills on the 
 globe. 
 

 3« 
 
 Fact 5,— The mills of C. A. Pillsbury & Co. could feed two 
 cities as large as New York. 
 
 Fact 6. — The daily capacity of the three mills owned by C. A. 
 Pillsbury is 10,500 barrels. 
 
 Fact 7. — 200 cars are required every day to take the wheat into 
 and flour and offal out of the three great mills of C. A. Pillsbury & Co. 
 
 These mills, it is reported, have become the property of Eng- 
 lish capitalists. 
 
 We left Si. Paul by the new Soo line for the East and found it 
 everything that could be desired in the way of ease and comfort, as 
 well as civility and attention from the employees. This new route 
 is, we believe, becoming a favorite one for passengers travelling to 
 and from Eastern points and this region of the West. It is much 
 more convenient than the old one via Chicago. 
 
 On our arrival at the Sault Ste Marie canal we separated. 
 Willie continued the journey by rail to Montreal. Charlie and I 
 were fortunate enough to catch one of the C. P. R. Lake Superior 
 steamers here, and we went on board the Alberta for Owen Sound. 
 Thi weather was fine and the sail to Owen Sound was most enjoy- 
 able. These steamers have all the conveniences and comiorts of the 
 best equipped ocean steamers. 
 
 On arrival at Owen Sound we found the train waiting for us. 
 It consisted of drawing room and first-class cars. The morning was 
 lovely, and most of the country all the way to Toronto is picturesque 
 and highly cultivated ; the pace was not less than forty miles an 
 hour, and the morning's ride to Toronto was most pleasant. 
 
 Our trip has necessarily been a hurried one, but we have 
 travelled over a considerable extent of country, both Canadian and 
 American, and may offer a few observations as to the impressions 
 made upon us, The portion of United States territory traversed by 
 us does not possess any advantages over Canada in point of fertility 
 of soil or climatic conditions. The only land which will compare in 
 point of fertility of soil with our own Canadian prairies is in Dakota, 
 and we were informed that there is a belt of country in that State 
 subject to extremes of cold, hail storms and tornadoes, besides 
 seasons of drought. The past season has been a very dry one. 
 
 The arable land in Montana is lin.ited and requires irrigation, 
 as in the country we passed through it. British Columbia. The 
 mines of this State are vt'v productive and exceeding!/ rich in 
 
feed two 
 
 I by C. A. 
 
 wheat into 
 bury & Co. 
 ty of Eng- 
 
 tid found it 
 comfort, as 
 > new route 
 ravelling to 
 It is much 
 
 separated, 
 tiarlie and I 
 ,ke Superior 
 wen Sound, 
 most enjoy- 
 iiorts of the 
 
 iting for us. 
 lorning was 
 [picturesque 
 ty miles an 
 Int. 
 
 It we have 
 [nadian and 
 impressions 
 raversed by 
 of fertility 
 ;ompare in 
 in Dakota, 
 that State 
 |es, besides 
 one. 
 
 irrigation, 
 
 ibia. The 
 
 rich in 
 
 33 
 
 copper and silver. These mining industries have reached a stage of 
 development with which Canada has nothing as yet to compare ; but 
 it must be borne in mind that there it is comparatively an old in- 
 dustry, while in Canada it may be said to have only commenced, 
 and mining for the precious metals is now being vigorously pushed, 
 notably in British Columbia and the Port Arthur district. 
 
 The population of the United States is now said to be over 
 sixty millions, while the population of Canada is under six millions, 
 but a good many believe that our civilization is higher, that the 
 administration of the laws is better. Our population appears to be 
 more law abiding ; they are less apt to take the law into their own 
 hands on slight provocation. This may be due to the fact that 
 justice is pretty certain to overtake the transgressor. 
 
 The question was frequently asked of us, "When is Canada 
 going to join the Union?" Canada is contented and prosperous, 
 and prefers tu leave well alone. An American statesmen, a distin- 
 guished man, stated recently that annexation must of necessity be a 
 Canadian question ; that they didn't propose to have vassal states or 
 subject citizens ; that they must wait for the pear to ripen. We are 
 inclined to believe that it will be retained for home consumption. 
 He further said that he could not see how the notion of what is 
 called Commercial Union is ever to be made practicable ; how one 
 tariff under different commercial systems, or fiscal systems or tariffs, 
 can be conducted by two peoples like the peoples of the United 
 States and Canada ; that he didn't think it possible that the people 
 of Canada can maintain a practical relation with Great Britain and 
 at the same time have absolute freedom of commercial incercourse 
 with them, admitting their manufactures without a tax, and establish 
 against a country of which they are a part a protective, still less an 
 excluding tariff. This is a clear and logical statement of the case. 
 
 It is argued by some that Commercial Union is feasable 
 because British goods are now subject to protective duty. The 
 point must surely be overlooked that it is not so much a cjuestion of 
 the rate of duty, as the admission of the goods of another country 
 free of any duty, which would practically and wholly exclude British 
 goods. That it is desirable to extend the present volume of busi- 
 ness with them (which a reference to the trade and navigation 
 returns will shew to be very large), provided it can be done on fair, 
 reciprocal terms, no one can deny ; but why Canada should be con- 
 
34 
 
 demned by Free Traders and Commercial Unionists for having a 
 protective duty of 25 to 30 per cent, and the United States lauded 
 vrith a protectve tariff of 50 to 60 per cent, and advocate that 
 Canada should be brought under the same regime, it is difficult to 
 understand. It looks somewhat illogical and Utopian. 
 
 Our attachment to and faith in Canada and Canadian institu- 
 tions are not diminished by our trip. 
 
a 
 
 ed 
 at 
 to 
 
 u-