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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis 6 des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour §tre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche & droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imagGs n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 HH <77^*^ THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT, INCLUDING THE COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, FROM JUAN UE FUCA STRAIT TO PORTLAND CANAL, TOOIiiUiiU WITH VANCOUVER AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. COMPILED FllOM ADMIRALTY SUBVKYb. rUUUSUBD BY ORDBB OP THE LOBDS COMMI88IONEUS OF TlIK ADMIKALTT. LONDON: PKINTED I'Oll THE UYDIIOGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMlUALTYj AND SOLD BY J. D. rOTTER, Aijenlfor the sale of Admiralty Charts, 31 POULTRY, AND 11 KING STREET, TOWER HILL. IS88. Price 5s, (id. Bydfographio Not3c-:> lii-X I ADVERTISEMENT TO THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT. The British Columbia Pilot contains sailing directions for the coast from Juan de Fuca strait to Portland canal ; with the adjacent inner channels ; also Vancouver and Queen Charlotte islands. The information relating to the coast from the entrance to Juan de Fuca strait, and Haro and Rosario straits, to Bute inlet, as also to Vancouver island and adjacent channels, was obtained from the journals and surveys conducted by C, \ > 51' Flans m Goletas Chan & Broughtort Str 2061. Duncan B. Qtuathiashi Cbve,Nimpkish River. BidlHT Slvusliarue B . ii,Mverll': Alert 11. GoHiardJJT Bearer Cove,. PLajia on. Chart 580. JuinhmJiniri^vm. 682 Queen Charlotte Sovind. _*'% ' ^t> ^--~ 555 Goleta.v rj, ^ "•'*.. _,..* ^"^^^CJuu^^ Scott If ^^ >^P»^ -t-.. 128'' 1''7" 126^^ 125° 124° 123' Hiiiaii allium 122*^ ■ II UII ll 121° 56? INDEX TO AnMlRALTV PUBLISHED CHARTS ALLUDED TO IN THIS WORK llie- diagrams slww tlic. limits of the smaller scale, charta. A ruanher against a.plojce thus :P. Simpson Z426 shows . — tliatasepcTcUAploiThis piibUshed-withthat.Tiujnher. — A stxir and. a number thus;Morris Ti. i462 ' indicates thntaplanis givenontJvechartnumhered 1462. For details of scales, prices &csee Admiral^ CaialognA. Also shown, on Chart of Pajcifix\N9 787. 55° 54° :53° 62° ^51° Mmm ''^ -^.i i. ,.>'■■/ 50' 49"^ 48° 47° 134° li? 133° Betii'er CrViJ: (jit'ye ti'.' CameleonHVStfuirit'LCo\'&. Ottjfir CoveMenzies B. JWalshCcn&Trihiin&Bt PriAeauJc Haven . Plans ore Ovart 581. SuqiiashAnch^DiLsky C. Sunday HrFar&welLirr Plans on Chart 714. Osborrt&Mapl&Bays. 132" 13l« 130° N? Yo -C-Bruish CohimbicbPilot. i, 600 716 ■O'^'^' "W^ ^r- pT 5»9 Q^f 583 589 E«P e^-" 2631 129° 128" M.u-ch 1888 ■570 Qv'-^^ ^;J'\ 716 ■'i CM'" -^ • 126'' Long. West 125° of Greenwich 124° M,u-ch 1888 EngrcaecL hy- Dax'ics Sc Ctympanv ]- "rrKtsTTiF-ti Ht^^m esiZi^^ THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. GENERAL IIEMARKS. — WINDS, CURRENTS, CLIMATE, METEOROLOGY. — PRODUCTS. — PASSAGES. For later information respecting the lights which are described in this work, seamen should consult the Admiralty List of Lights in South America, Western Coast of North America, Pacific Islands, &c. This list is published early in the current year, corrected to the previous 31st December, » 1749'«. the island under a Royal Charter granted in the reign of Charles II. Products. — British Columbia contains extensive tracts of arable land, and a large auriferous district. Gold was first discovered on Thompson river in 1858. Coal is found on the mainland and on Vancouver island ; the mines at Nanaimo and Departure bay, which yield bituminous coal, being the principal places on the island. Anthracite coal is also found, especially in Queen Charlotte islands. During 1870 about 30,000 tons were exported; in 1881 the value of coal exported amounted to ^2,000,000, and in 1 886 to ^97.3,000. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, peas, vegetables, and fruits flourish in British Columbia. The fisheries are very rich, but are not yet developed . whaling is, however, being carried on to a small extent, and the dog-fish catch is steadily progressing. Salmon is abundant, the export of which, chiefly in tins, constitutes one of the principal sources of wealth in the * country ; it is also an important part of the food of the Indians. A 17498. 4 Juii jSt^j , ■nHmt-- ■■i*-- 1 'I ) .-j>aBam|freii — '- ,^f„ ,M i aV 0nma»^S! «1»-1«« ■ THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. GENERAL REMARKS. — WINDS, CURRENTS, CLIMATE, METEOROLOGY. — PRODUCTS. — PASSAGES. 1 BRITISH COLUMBIA, a province of the Dominion of Canada, entered the Confederation in 1871. It includes Vancouver island (first constituted a British colony in 1849), also the numerous islands and adjacent mainland of North America lying between point Roberts in the strait of Georgia, and Portland canal. The average breadth of British Columbia is about 250 miles, and the length of its coast line about 450 miles ; the area including Vancouver island and Queen Charlotte islands is roughly estimated at 466,000 square miles. Vancouver island became a Crown colony in 1858, and was united to British Columbia (the mainland colony) as one colony under the name of British Columbia in 1866. Previous to 1858 the island had been for the most part in the hands of the Hudson's Bay Company, who held their lands in the island under a Royal Charter granted in the reign of Charles II. Products. — British Columbia contains extensive tracts of arable land, and a large aiu'iferous district. Gold was first discovered on Thompson river in 1858. Coal is found on the mainland and on Vancouver island ; the mines at Nunaimo and Departure bay, which yield bituminous coal, being the principal places on the island. Anthracite coal is also found, especially in Queen Charlotte islands. During 1870 about 30,000 tons were exported; in 1884 the value of coal exported amounted to ^2,000,000, and in 1 886 to ^97-3,000. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, pefts, vegetables, and fruits flourish in British Columbia. The fisheries are very rich, but are not yet developed . ■whaling is, however, being carried on to a small extent, and the dog-fish catch is steadily progressing. Salmon is abundant, the export of which, chiefly in tins, constitutes one of the principal sources of wealth in the ^country ; it is also an important part of the food of the Indians. A 17498. A ■ GENERAL REjrAIlKS. [iNrnoDucTouY cnxr. Hoiilican, soraewluit resembling the Hardine, cod, herring, halibut (of enormous size), sardines, anchovy, haddock, and oysters arc also found. The value of fish exported during the year 1H86 aggregated )K633,110, the principal being tinned salmon, which amounted in 1884 to 0,193,968 lbs. 10 Great Britain alone. The fur trade, which, until the year 1860 was entirely monopolized by the Hudson's Bay Company, is considerable ; the value of the furs exported in the year 18C9 being upwards of ,$210,000; in 1880 it was ^329,248. Among the numerous fur bearing animals the principal are the sea otter, marten, silver fox, black fox, and red fox. The forests are of great extent, producing valuable timber, of which the Douglas pine (commonly called Oregon pine), white pine, maple, Scotch fir, and cedar are the principal ; the former, yielding spars 100 to 150 feet in length, and from 20 inches to 2 feet in diameter, is that principally exported in large cargoes. Besides the above, the yellow cypress, poplar, arbor-vitae, yew, oak, arbutus, alder, dog-wood, cherry, crab-apple, willow, iind cotton-wood are found. The value of the export of timber in 1871 iiinountcd to about ;K250,000, and in 1880 to ^'200,178. Cattle, horses, sheep, and farm animals thrive generally in nil parts. The manufactures of British Columbia consist of saw mills and flour mills, breweries, and distilleries ; they are rapidly increasing.* Trade. — During the year 1870 the value of the exports amounted to about ^210,000, exclusive of gold, which amounted to ^1,002,717; this latter docs not include the gold carried out of the country by miners, estimated at one-third of the above amount. In 1886 the amount of gold dust and bars exported was valued at 1^746,690. The customs duty for 1886 collected at Victoria amounted* to about j^880,000, and the total value of the exports of British Columbia to ^2,885,823. The imports amounted to ;$3,950,308. Population. — The population of British CohimbiM is to some extent migratory; in 1871 it amounted to 10,586, exclupi o of Indians, and was classed as follows : 8,576 whites, 462 negi-oes, aiid i,548 Chinese : but iu 1885 the population of Victoria alone reached to nearly 12,000, and continues to increase with rapidity. The Indian population is estimated at about 30,000 or 40,000 ; 17,000 being on Vancouver island, but they appear to be gradually diminishing in numbers, consequent on tribal wars, feuds, and the ravages of small-pox and measles, both of which diseases arc deadly amongst the natives. * There is regular communication by steamer between British Columbia and Japan, China, Sandwich islands, New Zealand, Australia, San Francisco, and the ports in Puget sound. Missionary stations have been established at Alert bay, fort Rupert, Metlah catlah, on the Skeena and Nass rivers, and at Massett in Queen Charlotte islands. •' i. ' «^ iNTRODucTORT CHAP.] TRADE. — POPULATION. — CLIMATE. 8 i'- 4 The Imlifins along the count hivo great ?«kill in the Imilding juhI inaniigomont of cftiioes ; thoy are a polygamous race, and subsist chit>fly ])y hunting and fishing ; those of southern Columbia are dark, and wear their liair long, while those of the more northern districts are of a elearer tint. The coast Indians live in substantial one-story dwellings of Kvc-hewn timber, divided into soveial compartments, of which one is occupied by each family. In the interior the houses or wigwams are made of skins, old tent cloths, and mats ; in severe weather they take shelter in underground liouses (circular pits) from 20 to 10 feet in diameter, and 8 or 10 feet deep, covered over with a substantial earthed roof, with a 3-feet circular aperture in the centre, forming the only outlet for the inhabitants and smoke. RailWEys. — The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the heart of the British possessions in the North American continent, and is 3,054 statute miles in length between Quebec and Vancouver town in Burrard inlet, the western terminus ; thr distance being accomplished in about 5 days 22 hours, and trains leave daily from both places. The railway is in course of construction from Vancouver town to English bay, and a branch line has been made from port Moody to New Westminster. A railway has also been constructed on Vancouver island, between Victoria, Esquimalt, and Nanaimo, and there is now daily communication between these places. TELEGRAPHS. — Esquimalt is in telegraphic communication with England through Canada, by way of Nanaimo and Burrard inlet. Also through the United States, by way of Seattle.* Earthquakes.— -svc pp. 40, 221. CLIMATE. — The climate of British Columbia varies considerably according to the locality ; in the southern parts and on Vancouver island it is temperate during summer, the thermometer seldom, if ever, rising on the hottest day above 80° Fah., or falling below 20° Fah. in winter : and it may, in fact, be said that this region possesses the climate of England without its humidity. In the central part of the province, however, the drought, heat, and cold are greater, the heat sometimes being very intense. It is, however, remarkably healthy both in summer and winter, there being no malaria or ague cither during the hottest weather or in the dampest localities. Generally speaking, the summers are dry at Vancouver island, but with occasional showers ; the -yyiuters bring a good deal of rain, and snow falls more or less each year. In the northern part of the province along the coast the atmosphere is excessively humid, and rain falls heavily. * Submarine tlectric cables cross Juan de Fuoa strait from Clover point to New Dungeness 5 and the strait of Georgia from Valdes island to point Grey. A 2 4 GENERAL REMARKS. [iNTRODUCTOUY CHAP. The cliiuftte of the malulaud coast opposite Vancouver inland differs somewiiat from that of the S.E. portion of Vancouver island. In summer tlie temperatiue averages slightly higher, and in winter somewhat lower, while the rainfall is greater immediately along the coast. The lower Fraser valley (New Westminster district) does not receive in summer the cold breezes from the Olympian mountains which blow across Victoria, nor does it receive in winter so much of the genial warmth of wama ocean air. As a general thing ice forms on the river for a short time and snow begins to fall in January, and continues to do so intermittently till March, the ground not being continuously covered with it. Observations for seven consecutive years — 1874 to 18H0 — at New Westminster give the highest maximum temperature, 92° in July, and the lowest 7° in Januarj', the mean aunual rainfall being 59 "66 inches. Taken as a whole, the climate, differing widely as it does in places, is salubrious and invigorating. No miasmatic infection from ague-breeding marshes taints the atmosphere whatever locality may be selected for a residence, whether one of moist aw and equable temperature along the coast, or the dryer and more varying one of the interior ; the climate will be found hcaUhful, invigorating, and calculated to inspire activity, comparing more than favourably with the same latitude on the Atlantic slope.* ThGrmometGr. — At Esquimau, the highest summer temperature averages 72° Fah. (in August), Juno, July, and August being the warmest months of the year. The lowest temperature averages 23^° Fah., the coldest months being December, January, and February. The greatest daily range occurs in March, and the smallest in October. The temperature on Vancouver island during summer is lower than on tlie mainland, owing to the prevailing S.E. winds blowing from the snow- capped mountains on the Americnn side and across the sound. The waiters of the sound are peculiarly cold at this season. - ' • • ^^ • " ' '*. ■ ^ ' : Bd.roiueter. — The barometric variations are neither frequent, the range for the year averaging about 1 • 5 inches. great nor Port Simpson. — i'he climate at port Simpson is uncertain, no two seasons being precisely the samr, or appearing to follow any general law. During one summer fine weather may be experienced for six weeks at a time, and on such occasions a serene atmosphere, with magnificent sunsets, will be experienced. The following summer may prove one of almost constant rain, with a sucees^sion of gales from the south-eastward. Along the shores of Chatham sound the rainfall is not so great as within the inlets. The temperature auring July and August 1869 varied from 57° to 64°; during June, July, and August 1U68 it varied from 48° to 73°. 'b i 4 The West Shore, September 1884, p. 291 ; and 1887, p. 425. ^ 'i 4 INTRODUCTORY CHAv.] CLIMATE. — METEOROLOGY. 5 The mean temperature of the sea was 4° lower than the mean temperature of the atmosphere at port Simpson during these p-riods, but at Methih catlah and Nass bay it was 8° lower than the atmosphere, probably due to the Influence of the cold water from the rivers whioh flow into those bays. Birds. — During the month of May humming birds in great numberc arrive, and remain until the end of August. They are snared by the Indian boys, and brought alongside for sale, suspended to sticks. At the beginning of October, large flocks of wild geese, .ujd ducks, are seen flying southward ; and the winter season is then assumed to have commenced. Temperature. — From observations taken iu 1868, during the four months mentioned, the maximum and minimum registrations of temperature were as follows :— June, 65°, 50° ; July 74°, 48° ; August, 70^ 54° ; September, 64°, 44°. Portland canal. — The sun's rays in August, between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., were very powerful, and, reflected from the snow, caused occasionally intense heat. When the sun wa.s obscured by the mountains, the atmos- phere at once conveyed a sensation of chillness. During that month, just before sunrise, the tiiermometer registered 32° Fahrenheit, water left in basins within the tent lieing frozen during the night. The vapour developed by the heat of the sun during the early portion of the day, becoiiiing condensed on the mountainous shores of the inlet, usually fell as a drizzling rain from 3 p.m. to about midnight. Temperature of the surface water, within 20 miles of the head of the canal, was 33". At that distance from the mouth of the Rear river the water on the surface w&h fresh. Queen Charlotte islands.— The climate of Queen Charlotte islands and the off'-lyinj, Jslands of the coast of British Columbia is in- fluenced by th*? warm body of water which washes their shores, and the winter is less severe and the climr.te is milder on the islands than within the inlets. The vapour arising from this body of warm water is condensed upon the high vnountains which form the shores of the mainland, and falls in drizzling almost constant rain so prevalent in these waters. Ice.—Thc Fraser river is, as ar rule, frozen over at New Westminster, from January to early iu March, during which time sleighs run to Langlcv. The lakes in the vicinity are frozen over, and ice ^'orms at the head of the several inlets where the water is comparatively fresh, but on the coast it does .lot form sufiiciently thick to impede na^ijatiou. 6 GENERAL KEMARKS. [introductory chap. Witliiu the inlets on the coast, north of Vancouver's island, ice is formed during the winter of from 8 to 12 inches in thickness, and occasionally extends as far as 25 miles from the heads of the inlets. The Skeeua and Nass rivers are frozen over during the winter, the former as far as six miles below port Essington, and the latter, iu severe weather, down to its mouth. Rainfall. — The average rainfall appears to be about 55 inches ; heavy rains generally occur in December and January- The following Table shows the pi'ncipal meteorological features at Esquimalt, Vancouver island, during the ^^''ars 1870 and 1871. Month. Barometer (mean Thermometer. Tem- Prevailing wlud. perature height). Max. Min. of sea. Jauuary 30-021 51-5 23-5 43 -'4 North & N.Ely. February- - 29 '970 50-5 29-5 43 Easterly. March 29-921 59 34 45-4 S.Ely. & Westly. - Rainy mouth. April - 30-037 61-5 43-5 48-2 S.Ely. & S.Wly. May - 30-009 62-5 46-5 51-r S.Ely. & Southly. June - 29-989 68 52-5 53-2 S.Ely. & S.Wly. Julv - 30-043 68-5 54-5 57-4 S.l;ly. to Westly. AufTust 30-039 72 55 58-9 S.ii;iy. to Westly. September - 30-018 65 50 55-4 S.Wly. variable - Fogs during latter part of month. October 30-037 60-5 45-5 49-1 Variable Fogs and fre- quent rains. November - 30-059 61 40-5 46-7 Easterly. (N.E. to S.E.) December - 30-066 59 28-5 45-1 Easterly. !P'^ 'l-S.— Juan de Puca strait.— Although fogs in this region ir f such frequent occurrence as on the neighbouring coast of i I'.ll' la (where they prevail almost uninterruptedly during summer, ana as late as the middle of October), yet from August to November* they orctir in Juan de Fuca strait, and are sometimes very dense over the tntranco for .several days together. Tiioy are generally accompanied by calms or very light winds from N.W., which renders them the more dangerous to sailing vessels closing the land. Coast north of Vancouver island.— Fogs are prevalent especially during the summer months. The north-west winds which prevail during that season, condense the vapour which arises from the compara- tively warm water surrounding Queen Charlotte islands and the coast of ^ i * Fogs were very prevalent in November, especially on ihe south shore of/uan 1' Fuca strait. — Commander Edwards, R.N., II.M.S. Mutiite, 1884. ^ COLDEST WEATHER IN MEMORY OF INDIANS More ice at Mouth of Skeena River Than for Many Years. ^<^ , (Special Correspondence.) Prinoe Rupert, Jan, 18.— The weather on the northern coast still remains! cold. The Indiana state that there has nt,* ioeen a winter with such cold weather within the memory of the oldest Inhabitant, and steamship cap- tains, who hav« navigated these waters for fltteen years, say they never saw the Ice at the mouth of the Skeena river In such quantities as at > resent. After being Isolated In Port Esslng- ton for ten days owing to the ice- blockade, a small party of travelers reached Prince Rupert or, rhursdixV on the steamship Coqultlam, whlcn brought them over from Claxton' Can- nery. They had stopped off at Port Esslngton intending to take the next boat out, but the next boat never came. Realizing that It might possi- bly be weeks before another steamer would reach the town, the little party determined to walk out. With tho river piled high with crunching cakes of ice. e«c,.pe in that direction was cut-oir, 1 shouldering their packs they startei" - i ten mile mush over the hill-. J <"u -ton, a point that is U8i Is. ■; !;*. r.^m Ice and easily reached by w ■-• ? uera. After beating their way tfc. . • h *M& pathless woods they flroii-- ^. .■i^^,ff ciaxton just in time to cntch V.i ^ oquitlam which had for- tunately called there for fresh water, and were brought here tired and weary but none the worse for their long tramp. The big bargo Georgian loaded with two steam-shovelB, four pony loco- motives and about 40 dump-cars In tow of McKenzle Bros.* tug Escort No. i ' ^a arrived from New Westminster. ^^fitj; tt>iiflt was consigned to Foley, "iXfi ■' f. St«wart and will be used by D. -.;!k;" Who has a piece of rail- way •:!nsii action work near Porpoise Harbor at the southern end of Katen iHland. ,j^..»,ci It genera EOROLOGi'. — FOGS. — WINDS. 7 Qce of north-west winds this vapour is dis- jvith light winds, and especially with south- Drth-west winds, it approaches quickly from fog, or drizzling mist and rain, at the entrances to the sounds during tlic ion by the heat of the sun, the afternoons i cause much inconvenience during the dry [liment to navigation. In some seasons they of Georgia to Portland inlet. ?UCa strait. — Within the strait of Juan on, tho winds usually assume its direction summer, the prevailing winds from N.W. or an within the strait ; while the S.E. gales of may be blowing within the strait, it fre- tlie ib"asous blows heavily outside at the same Ufa suddenly changes to that direction, from ling the entrance, which makes that part of between port San Juan and Bonilla point a without steam power. I prevail from S.W. and N.W.,* the former the latter blowing fresh and with great regu- August. In September and the early part of icertain, and there is generally a great deal of Is above 30 • 00 inches during summer ; should torly wind Avith thick rainy weather may be on and clearing up with a westerly wind as or S.W., more liequently the former ; they ;obcr, and continue until the middle of April, iceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy ulually from East or E.S E. veering to the ain and thick weather, the barometer falling ' becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly h clear weather, but with frequent squalls of rise immediately tho wind veers to S.W., ! [y blows from 12 to 20 hours. ♦ H.M.S. Jiockei experienced light winds from S.E. to S.W., and calms duniig the months of August and September. li 6 GENERAL llEMAKKS. [iNTuonrcTOur chap. Witln'u the inlets vu the- coast, iiortli of Vancouver's island, ice is fornie'l (Inrini- tlio winter ol' from S to 12 inclios in thickne.-s, iui(i ocwisionally oxfenils as far as 2.3 miles from the heads of the inlets. The Skeeiia and Xa.ss rivers are frozen over dnring tiio winter, the former as far as six miles below port Kssington, and the latter, iu severe weather, down to its month. Rainfall. — 1 1'<^ average rainfall appears to be about oo inches ; heavy rains generally occur in December and .January. The following Table shows the i)rineipal meteorological featuresi at E>quinialt, Vancouver island, iluring the years 187<) and 1^71. liaroiiK'ttT ' i. imoiiiL'tor. Ti'iii- :\ronth. (iiifan peratiirc I'revailing wind. ticiirliO. Ma; .iu. of se:i. .Taiiiiaiy ••JOMI^l 51 -0 23-;( 43 •4 N.irth .S. N.Ely. Fibnuirv - •_'!»• '.17(1 TiO ■ ■) 21I-5 13 Kastcrlv. :\Iarcli ■ - •2'J-'J2i .V,t 31 45-4 S.Klv. k ^V^•^tlv. - Rainy mouth. AjTil - 30 -o:! 7 (', I • :, •13:. 4S-2 .«^.K1^. .'V S.WIv. .May - •(OMKI'.t 02 • :> ■iC, ■ ,-. :< 1 • 7 S.KlV. cSc Soutlilv. June - :2',<",l8'.t r,8 ,".2 • .-J :)3-2 S.r.ly. .V S.Wly". July - 30-01:! G8-5 .>!•.'•, 57 '4 S.F.ly. to Wc-f^llv. AuLTust ;iO-o:!;i 72 :^r^ .OS".) S.F.ry. to NW-^tiy. Sc'l)t(.'iiil)er - :}o-oi8 fj.') .■)0 h:,- 1 S.Wly. variable - Fogs diiriiiij latter |iart el' month. Oi'iobtr 3o'o;j7 (JO '.J •l.VJ 4',f! A'ariable Ldg.^ ami lie- N(iVcuibt.'r - iiuent rains. .'iO'O.v.i r,\ ■10 -5 n;-7 llasterlv. (N.K. to .s.i;.) Dtci ii)bcr - 30 ■()(•,(; sit 28-5 4.-, • 1 Masterly. FOGS.— Juan de Puca strait.— Although fogs i,i thi.s region are ntiait, and are sometimes very dons^e over the entrancr.for several days together. Tin y are generally accompaiue.l by (■aln.s or very light win,ls iV.un N.\\'., which rcuder.s them the more dan.uM;ro\is to sailing ves.scds closing tho land. Coast north of Vancouver island.-Fogs a.o prevalent e.i.eciaily dui;ng the sunnuer months. The norlh-wt-st wind.s which prev..il during that season, condense the vapour whioh arises f.om the co.npara- tiv(dy warm wat.-r surroumling Q„ee„ C!harlotte i.slan.ls au.l the coa.st of * Fo,rs were very prevalent in Noven.ber. -,,e,.iail7;r^J,;;n^.;:;;;7;;;,;~ Fuca strait.-Cominauder Kdward.s, H.N., ll,M..S. Mutuu; ly^j. 'S J •'l J '»"S *"«! J-JBUI iio^ ptiy^ mi „ ^ ''•'"At ISTUODLCTOUT ciiAi-.] METEOllOLOG Y. — FOGS. — WINDS. 7 AiUHkii. During the provalenou of noith-wost winds this vapour is (li.>- persed, hut during cahns or with light winds, and especially with south- west^jrly winds succeeding north-west winds, it approaciu's quickly from seaward in tho form of dense fog, or drizzling mist and rain. At times fog will be found at the entrances to the sounds during the forenoon, dispensing near noon hy thu heat of the sun, the afternoons becoming clear and fine. Smokes fi'om forest fiics cause much inconvenience during the dry season, and are a great im[)ediinent to navigation. In some sf-asons they have extended from the (lulf of Georgia to Portland inlet. WINDS. -Juan do Fuca strait.— ^Vithin the strait of Juan de Fuca, in the winter season, the winds usually assume its direction either up or down, louring summer, the prevailing winds from N.W, or S.W. take a westerly direction within the strait; while the S.K. gales of winter blow fairly out. Although a westerly wind may be blowing within tlie strait, it ire- quently during (he change of tho seasons blows heavily (Uitside at the same time from .S.S.W., or sometimes suddenly changes to that direction, from a light easterly wind on opening the entrance, which makes tliat part of the coast of Vancouver island between port San Juan and J3onilla point a dangerous lee-shoro to a ship without steam power. The coast winds in summei prevail from S.W. and X.W.,* the former during flu- i-arly month?, and tlic hitter blowing fresh and with great regu- larity during June, .July, and Augu-t. In Septinilier and the eai ly part of October the winds are very uncertain, and there is gtuerally a great deal of calm, gloomy weather. The barometer usually stands above .30 '00 inches during sununer ; should it fall to II!) IH) a south-easterly wind with thick rainy weatlier maybe exiK'cted, but of short duration and clearing up with a woterly wind an soon as the bannnetor rises. The winter winds are S.K. or S.W., more frequi'ntly the former; they set in towards the end of October, anil eonfinue until the middle of April, S.E. gales are gc'ncrally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy weather; they spring up gratlually from East or E.S.E. veering to tiie southward, accompanied by rain and thick weather, the barometer falliu'f rapidly; when the barometer becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly to S.W. and blows heavily with clear weather, but with fre(iuent s(pialls of rain ; the baroimtter begins to rise immediately the wind veers to S.W., from which (pnirter it generally blows from 12 to 20 hours. ♦ II. M.S. Uinki't, oxpfriciiwd light winds from 8.K. to S.W., iiud cnliiis duniig the months of August and September. m 8 GENERAL REMARKS. [INTKODUCTOKY CIIAPv The violence and duration of these S.E. gales is always proportioned to the fall of the mercury; with the barometer at 29*50 a strong gale may be looked for from tliis quarter ; it seldom falls below 29' 20, when very bad Aveather is certain to follow. On two or three occasions in as many years it has been known to fall to 28 "90. and has been followed by S.E. gales of great violence. A S.E, gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the baro- meter above 30 '00 inches. On such occasions the wind has always been preceded l)y calm, cloudy weather and raiu, with a high but falling baro- meter ; such gales arc not violent and are of short duration. S.E. gales are alw.iys accompanied by thick dirty weather, and rain ; but they seldom continue from that quarter for more than 12 or 18 hours, unless the barometer falls very low, and they almost always shift to S.W. When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded by one from S.E., the barometer seldom falls ; it either remains stationary, when the gale may be expected to continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside and fine weather follow. S.W. gales are accompanied by heavy banks of clouds, with passing showers of rain, and sometimes snow.* The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 29'45, and has been followed by no gale or bad weather, but on .such occasions there has been a heavy fall of snow on the hills, and a sudden fall of 15° in the temperature. A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals during the months of December, January, and February ; it is always accompanied by a high barometer (above 30'0), and at such times a continuance for several days to,":ether of clear, cold, frosty Aveather may be looked for ; the barometer on these occasions will sometimes rise as high as 30 "70, and the fine weather will then probably last u fortnight or more. Strait of Georgia. — The prevailing summer wind in the strait of Georgia is from N.W., or the same as on the outside coast, and between May and September it blows strong and steady, commencing about 9 a.m. * I [.M.S. Shearwater in 1866 experienced a heavy S.W. gale lasting 48 hours (31st Jauiun-y to 3rd February), weather thick and overcast, accompanied by heavy squalls of sleet and hail, and falling barometer; the wind then shifted to N.W., from which quarter it continued to blow with the same violence for 12 hctirs, the barometer rising ; the wind then backed to S.W. and South, the barometer fell rapidly from 30'27 to 1!9'69, and the squalls were of great violence. On the 5th and 6th February the wind veered to W.S.W. and W.N.W., continued to blow heavily, but barometer rose, and atmosphere became clearer. On the 7th the wind fell and shifted to the South, the weather again becoming thick, dirty, and rainy, but the barometjr rose rapidly. This was followed on the 8th by a heavy gale of 12 hours Juration, which commenced at S.W. and shifted to S. and S.E., the barometer again falling to 29-80.— Commnnder T. Smith, R.N., H.M.S. Shearwater, 18C6. . < A.« INTRODUCTORY CHAP,] "WINDS. JJ find dying away towards sunset. These winds do not generally extend much below point Roberts, among the Haro archipelago they become variable and baffling, while in the main channels of Rosario and Haro the v/esterly wind entering the strait of Fuca is deflected to S.W., and vessels running up these channels with a fair wind almost always find it ahead on entering the strait of Georgia. During winter there is a good deal of moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, but gales from S.E. and S.W. are frequent. Coast north of Vancouver island.— The prevailing winds during the summer on the coast noithwai'd of Vancouver island are from the north-west, preceded during the earlier summer months by south- westerly winds. During the winter months S.E. and S.W. winds prevail. Gales from the S.E, prevail at all seasons, and are more frequent and severe than those experienced on the coast of Vancouver island. The summer gales are of shorter duration than those of winter, and seldom last more than 48 hours. At the fall of the year, gales lasting for 8 days, from the S.E. have been experienced. The strength of the summer winds depends greatly upon local circum- ') stances. Down the channels, which lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with high land on both shores, they frequently blow with great strength. The wind usually begins at sunrise, increases in strength throughout the day until about 3 p.m., and then gradually declines towards sunset. The nights as a rule, are calm during the summer months ; but, if the wind prevail but slightly from the N.W. during the night, it will probably blow hard from that quarter on the following day. The barometer stands at about 30 "10 during the prevalence of IS.W. winds. Gales from the south-east are usually preceded by a falling baro- meter, but not invariably. A sensation of dampness in the atmosphere is the usual precursor, and the reading of the wet and dry bulbs, though as a rule not ditfering greatly upon this coast, more closely approximate each other. If during the sununer the barometer fail one tenth of an inch, especially if it has been standi ig at higher than 30 '20, a gale from the south-esist is probable. These gales usually begin at E.S.E., veering to the southward with a falling barometer ; the wind remaining at S.E. and S.S.E. for a long or short period according to the season of the year. With a rising barometer the wind shifts to the S.W. with violent squalls, and then hauling more westerly blows itself out. A strong S.E. gale, of short duration, has been experienced, during the summer, with the baiometer previously registering 30- 17 and falling to 30-12. vt;t F^5! 10 GENERAL REMARKS. [intkoduotory chap. 1 w ^ u *^ ^ J Queen Charlotte islands. — South-east winds are prevalent, aud are almost invariably accompanied with thick rain ; those from the opposite quarter generally bring fine weather. The weather is uucertain, and cannot be depended on for 24 hours at a time. The heaviest rainfall is local, taking place on the western mountains of Queen Charlotte islands. It may often be noted that while heavy rain is falling on the mountains the sky is comparatively clear over the strait to the eastward. From this circumstance the north-east part of Graham island is not subject to a heavy rainfall. Snow occasionally falls in winter. CUHIliENTS. — A south-easterly current has been found to prevail on the western coast of Vancouver island more or less throughout the year, particularly from August to November, probably in some measure caused by the N.W. winds which blow almost constantly on the coast during the summer. This current joining the ebb tide out of Fuca strait has been known to set vessels between 4 and 5 miles an hour to the south- eastward, and during fogs there is great risk of being drifted on to cape Flattery, or some of its off-lying dangers ; extreme caution should there- fore be observed in entering the strait at such times, especially near the fidl and change of the moon when the tides are at their strongest. With winds from the south-eastward in the offing, however, this southerly set has been checked, and near the coast a set to the northward experienced.* TIDSS. — It is high water, full and change, at cape Flattery at noon, the ebl) stream commencing to run strong at 2h. p.m. and continuing for about 6 hours. In the outer part of Juan de Fuca strait there is no very great strength of tide; it varies from one to 4 knots, seldom so much as the latter unless near cape Flattery; but when approaching the more con- tracted part in the neighbourhood of the Race islands, which receives the first rush of the pent up waters of the strait of Georgia, strengthened and diverted by the labyrinth of islands Avhich choke up its southern entrance, it is not surprising that eddies, races, and irregularities occur that almost baflQe any attempt at framing laws which may not rather embarrass than assist the seaman ; the result, however, of observations continued throughout an entire year at Esquimalt, and partially on other parts of the coast during three seasons, appears to warrant the following conclusions, viz. : — The flood tide sets to the northward along the outer coast of the continent and Vancouver island. It enters the strait of Fuca at cape * In July 1873, II.M.S. Repulse experienced a northerly set of one knot an hour and S.E. winds, at 300 miles from cape Flattery. — Captain C. T. Curme, K,N. II.M.S. Heroine in 1883 also experienced a current setting in the same direction. — Navigating Lieutenant Ilatchj R.N. ■PIP ■pp INTRODUCTORY CHAP.] CURRENTS. — TIDES. 11 Flattery, running with considerable velocity, sometimea 3 or 4 knot.s, over Duncan and Duutze rocks ; it then turns sharply into the strait, passing through the various channels among the Ilaro archipelago into the strait of Georgia, and between cape Mudge and cape Lazo at a distance of from 5 to 20 miles from the former, according to the phases of the moon and the state of the winds, it is met by a flood from the northward, wiiich, sweeping the western coast of Vancouver island, enters Goletas channel and Queen Chai-lotte sound at its northern extreme, in lat. 51^ N., thence southerly down the narrow waters of Johnstone strait and Discovery passage, meeting the tide which enters by Fuca strait, and reaches about midway between the northern and southern extremes of Vancouver island, or close to the spot where the broad expanse of the strait of Georgia merges into the narrow channels adjoining it. On the western side of Vancouver island the tides are regular ; flood and ebb of six hours duration, tlie times of liigh water on the full and change at Nootka sound, and at the entrance of Goletas channel, varying very little, and occurring near noon, the greatest range 13 feet. Nor is any marked irregularity observable in Johnstone strait and Discovery passage, except the not unusual circumstance that the ebb stream continues to run to the northward for two hours after it is low water by the shore, the water rising at the same time ; the ebb stream being of seven hours duration, the flood about five hours. The great and perplexing tidal iri'egularities may, therefore, be said to be embraced between the strait of Fuca, near the Race islands, and cape Mudge, a distance of 150 miles ; and a careful investigation of the observa- tions made at Esquimalt, and among the islands of the Ilaro archipelago, shows that during the summer months (May, June, and July) there occurs but one high and one low water during the 24 hours ; high water at the full and change of the moon haj)pening about midnight, and varying but slightly from that hour during any day of the three months ; the springs range from 8 to 10 feet, the neaps from 4 to 5 feet. The tides are almost stationary for two hours on either side of high or low water, unless affected by strong winds outside. During August, September, and October, there are two high and two low waters in the 24 hours ; a superior and an inferior tide, the high water of the superior varying between Ih. and 3h. a.m., the range during these months is from 3 to 5 feet, the night tide being the highest. During winter almost a reversal of these rules appears to take place ; thuf , in November, December, and January, the 12-hour tides again occur, but the time of high water is at or about noon instead of midnight. In February, March, and April, there are two tides, the superior higli water occurring from Ih. to 3h. p.m. Thus in summer months the tides are low during the day, the highest tide occurring duiing the night, and 12 GENERAL REMARKS. [introductory ciuv. in winter the tides are low during the night, the highest tide occurring during the day. The ebb stream has always been found to run southward through the Haro ui'chipelago, and out of Fuca strait for 2^ hours after it is low water by the shore, the water rising during that time ; the ebb is stronger than the flood, and generally two hours longer duration. The tides during those months when two high and two low waters occur in the 21 hours, are far more irregular than when there is only one 12-hour tide, and another anomaly exists, viz., the greatest range not unf requently occurs at the first and last quarters, instead of at the full and change of the moon. Strait of Georgia. — 'The tides, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro archipelago, yet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during the freshets of summer, when the Fraser river discharges an immense volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks, and almost straight for the mouth of Active pass. This peculiar milky-coloured water is frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner channels washing the shores of Vancouver island ; at other times it reaches the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable and most striking contrast witli the deep blue haters of the strait of Georgia. Hecate strait. — lu Hecate strait the flood tide comes from the southward. In Dixon entrance, the ilood coming from the westward round North island, sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for Brown j)assage, spreading for about 15 miles round Ruse point towards cape Ibbetson (Edye passage), where it meets the flood from the southward; consequently between Rose point, cupe Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence south-east 15 or 20 miles, the tides are irregular. The course and rate of the tidal streams are not regular, being greatly influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength. Time of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m. Between cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island the tides are the strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so, that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers. k t PASSAGES.* VANCOUVER ISLAND to VALPARAISO (Sail or Auxiliary Steam). — In winter S.E. and s.w. winds prevail on the coast of California as far south as about lat. 25" N., and vessels bound from Vancouver island to Valparaiso at that season should stand down * See Admiralty Atlas: — Wind and current charts for Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans. January 1879. INTRODUCTORY CHAP.] TIDES. — PASSAGES. 13 VANfOUVKR TO YOKOHAMA. 3 . KELP will 1)0 Hcen on tlieHurfaee of the water, j^rowln^' on nearly p. 12. every (lanj?er wit li a liotfom of rock or utoiies, durint,' tlio smiuner and autnmn months; but (liii'inj^- tlic winter and sin'in,!,' this UHoful marine ])lant \h not always to be seen, it should be an invariable rule never to pasH thron.!,'h kelp. In general, ]>}■ kee])ing elear of kelp yon keep elear of danger, but this must not prevent atten- tion to the lead, as the rule Hometimes fails ; kelj) is always a sign of danger, ami uidess tiie si)ot where it grows has been carefully sounded, it is not safe for a ship to pass over it. A heavy surge will oceasionally te.tr the Icelp away from rocks ; and a moderate strouu will ride it under wati-r, when it Avill not be seen. In passing on the side of a piitch of kelp, from whieh *he stems stream away with tiie eui-reut, care shouhl be taken to give it a wide berth, because the kelj) showing with a strong ti-. / '''- !i.i * Sec Admiralty Atlas:— Wind and current charts for Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans. January 1879. INTHODICIOnY CHAP.] TIDES. — PASSAGES. 18 11,'/ qjaH ,. .■.••;|.i;t> '.' ■ .. iNCMttti' !■ I 'f* '111 ' .1 I . \'\' the coast, keeping iit about lOOmiloH from it, until near the latitude of Snn Francifco, and thence gnuhially edge to tlic westward so as to pass westward of and in sight of Ouadalnpe island, where in all probability the north-east trade i/ind will be met with. A vessel should then steer to sight Clipperton island, passing westward of it; and in about this latitude the northeast trade wind will be lost. If steam power is available the belt of variable winds and calms, which at this season on the meridian of 120° is 250 to 350 miles wide, should be crossed on a southerly course so as to pick ui) the northern edge of the south-east trade winds in about long. 110° W. (well to windward) ; but if depending on sail alone a vessel will probably not be able to cross the equator much to windward of long. 118° W"., and every effort should be made not to cross further than that (o the westward, as the result would be that the vessel would not weather Elizabeth or Pitcairn islands, in the vicinity of which light baffling winds from South to S.E. '.vonld be experienced. The S.E. trade wind at this time of the year will be in all probability met with between lat. o' N. and 3° M. The higher latitude during the early winter months (November and December), and the lower latitude towards March, when the ship should be kept full, taaking, as nearly ns the wind will permit, a due south (true) course. In about lat. ()' S, the trade wind generally becomes more easterly iu direction, sometimes hauling as far round as E. by N. Cross the 20th parallel (S.) in long. 120° or 121° W. in order to pass well to windward of Ducie island, and standing to the south-cast cross the meridian of Easter island in about lat. 33° S. and the 100th meridian in lat. 36° S. Calms, and variable winds will be experienced in the vicinity of the 30th parallel settling into the north-west quarter as the vessel gets more to the south- ward, and on this account the 100th meridian should never be crossed northward of lat. 30° S. The 40th parallel should be reached before making easting, thence steer to pass southward of Juan Fernandez and on to Valparaiso. In November 1872, II.M.S. Sci/llct went to the parallel cf 41° S. before making Easting, accomplishing a good passaf^s of 46 days. In SUmnier. — in summer a course further we&t may be pursued, pass- ing the Lititude of San Francisco in about 130° W. Thence a sailing vessol should be kept further from the land to avoid the calms and light variable wmds experienced it this season along the coast of lower California and in the bay of Panama. After meeting the north-east trade wind in about lat. 30'^ N. the vessel should stand to the southward, making a south (true) course on the meridian of 125° W. not only to avoid the calms above mentioned, but also the hurricanes which during August and September are liable to be met with eastward of that meridian.* * Occasionally, but rarely, they are met with west of long. 125° W. 14. GENERAL REMARKS. [iNTROwcTOKr chap. The north-east trade wind will be lost at this season in lat. 11° or 12° N., und the belt of doldrums will be found to bo not so wide as during the winter months. The south-east trade wind Avill at this season be met with in about lat. 8" N., and if, as is most likely to be the case at tho commencement, the wind be well to the southward, the vessel should atand to the eastward in order to recover some of the ground lost by keeping further to the westward in the north.-east trades. Endeavour to cross the equator in from long. US'* to 120° W., and soon after crossing, the wind will Iiaul more to the eastward, when stand to the southward to weather Ducie island, and reach the 40th parallel before making easting, so as to fall in with the north-westerly winds, as culms and variable winds are met with north of that parallel. After passing the meridian of 90" W. haul up for Juan Fernandez and thence for Valparaiso. VALPARAISO to VANCOUVER ISLAND (Sailing). — The best route to pursue wb i making this voyage is the same at all times of the year. Leaving Valparaiso stand to the north-westward passing to the Avestward of St. Felix, and crossing the 2oth parallel in long. 83" W. After falling in with the south-east trade wind steer to cross the equator in about 112° W. and cross the 122nd meridian in lat. 10° N. After falling in with the north-east trade wind steer to cross the 20th parallel* in long. 133" W. and the 30th parallel in long. 138" W. standing to the westward as far as long. 140° \V. in about lat. 35" N. Thence edge aAvay to the eastward, crossing the 40th parallel in long. 138 W., and make for lat. 47° N. long. 130° W. before steering direct for Juan de Fuca strait. (Distance by this route 6,990 miles.) PANAMA to VANCOUVER ISLAND (Sailing).-A vessel unaided by steam power will experience cousideraMo difficulty and delay iu getting out of the bay of Panama, owing to the light baffling winds and calms which are met with there at all seasons. Between October and AprU the prevailing wind in the gulf is from the northward ; for the remainder of the year the wind hangs more to the westward, and land and sea breezes are felt varied by calms and occasional squalls from south- west. JNorthward of lat. 5° N., between the 80th and ilOth meridians, is a region of calms and light winds varied by squalls of win(' and rain ; but southward of lat. 5" N., between the coast of the mainland und the Gala- pagos islands, west of the meridian of 80" W., the wind is between South * In May and Jn.ne the north-cast trade wind is often very weak north of the 20th parallel, and irequently n belt of calm exists between the 20th and 30th parallels. " We steamed from lat. 2\" 30' N. to lat. 32' 10' N., a distance of 668 miles, through a " length and duration of calm greater than I can ever remember. On no occasion " were the slight flaws of wind more than force 1 or 2." — Captain's Remark Book II.M.S. SuHcj, May 1863. INTRODUCTORY CIIAP.] PASSAGES. 15 and West all the year round and, except between the months of February and June, is fairly strong. A vessel should, therefore, at all seasons make the best of her way to the southward, keeping as nearly as possible on the meridian of 80° W. unt.il lat. 5° N. is reached, when, if the wind will allow, make a south-west course,* and sliould the wind be light and variable with rain make every endeavour to get to the southward. When lat. 2° N. is reached, a vessel may, betv/een June and January, stand to the westAvard carrying S.W. winds as far as 85° W., after which the wind will haul to the southward and south-eastward settling into the south-east trade wind. Pass north- Avard of the Galapagos islands, keeping on the parallel of 2° N. until the meridian of lt5° W. is reached, when edge away to pass westward of Clipperton island, in the neighbourhood of -which the north-east trade wind will be met Avith, Avhen stand to the north-Avest to cross the parallel of 20° N. in long. 120° W., after which pursue the same course as if bound from Valparaiso. (See page 14,) Between January and April, hoAvever, it is better to cross the equator between the Oalapaeros islands and thp. iTi(uiiIn.nrl l-nafnr»i cfan/iinrr tn. tho VANCOUVER to YOKOHAMA. -Full-powered steam- p. ir,. vessels. — 'i'he tracks roconiniondcil iuv an follows: — From Vancouver to Yokohama, during suinnuM- months : from Juan de Fuca strait to cross the m<'ridiaii of I 10' \V. in lat. .'jTN., keeping on that parallel to the liSO'h meridian, thonco steering to cross 1()()° K. in lat. 48° N., 150^ F. in Int. 4:U° N., and to make the coast of Japan ^ at Kinknwasaii light in about Int. 88° '20' X. During winter months the same track to the IHOth meridian as above, thence steering to cross 1G0° E. in lat. 40^ N., \:)\f F. in lat. 441° N., passing ;,bont 50 miles south-e; stvvard of Skot;in, and io make tho coast of Japan as before at Kinknwasan liglit. Tlicse mutes are usually northwanl of the westerly winds, and in the track of the cold westerly cnrrent throughout. From Yokohama to Vancouver, at all , asons, cross the meridian of 151^° K m lat. 40° N., 100° E. in 44.^° N.. i70° E. in 47[/' N., and the 180th meridian in lat. 4'J° N. ; thence keeping on that p.irallel to 140° W., and from there steering for the entrance of Juan do Fuca strait. This route is usuallv in a warm easterly current throuiifhont.* -« jL^\.Kj^t.t^t.J\jX %tit,A May, inclusive, Avhen the prevailing Avinds on the vvest coast of Mexico are i * Should the wind be westward of S.W. stand to tho southward but if southward of S.W. stand to the wcstM-ard. t These directions are baned on the pa? saj^cs made by II. M. Ships Sidlfj, Bacchante, Cameleoti, and Tribune, in the montliB of March, April, and May, and October to Januarj- 1861-66. * ,SV',' .'Vdmiralty charts : -Cape Oo^^ientl■^^ to Kodiak island, No. 7.S7 ; Fvainrlintka to Kcnlittk inland, No. 2,|(>i) ; and North-wont I'acilii; ocean. iVo., No. 2.1.V.». u GENERAL REMARKS. [introductokt oHAr. The north-east trade wind will be lost at this season in lat. 1 l°or 12° N,, and the belt of doldrums will be found to be not so wide as during the Avintcr months. The south-east trade wind will at this season be met with in about lat. 8° N., and if, as is most, likely to be the case at the commencement, the wind be well to the southward, the vessel should stand to the eastward in order to recover some of the ground lost by keeping further to the westward in the nortk-east trades. Endeavour to cross the equator in from long. 118° to 120° W., and soon after crossing, the wind will haul more to the eastward, when stand to the southward to weather Ducie island, and reach the 40th parallel before making easting, so as to fall in with the north-westerly winds, as calms and variable winds are met with north of that parallel. After passing the meridian of 90" W. haul up for Jtian Fernandez and thence for Valparaiso. VALP.A.RAISO to VANCOUVER ISLAND (Sailing). — The best route to pursue when making this voyage is the same at all times of the year. Leaving Valparaiso stiind to the north-westward passing to the westward of St. Felix, and crossing the 2olh parallel in long. 83'MV. After falling in with the sonth-pnet tmri/^ —'—■'' ■'- cross the equat- .v • r - /'. 1'' ■<'-ii' -•" '^-'" ' lat. 10° N. A ■' ' ' ■' ' . ., the 20th paralli i standing to th ^ ■^^. .- ■.■■ Thence edge a i ; i 'n 138 W., andn _ ,;.l , Juan de Fuca b ; , PANAMi ' ;' vessel unaided j ■ ' ' delay in getting • . - ' " and calms whic , ,, ..... i.-m i m April the prevt . ( '> < i . r remainder of th , . , ..d .' < and sea breezes . . , • ■ > r west. Norlhwai ,i '/ region of calm? .: ' ■ southward of hit , ,, pagos islands, w 11 1: ♦ In May and June the north-cast trade wind i;;< often very weak north of the 20th parallel, and frequently a belt of calm exists iK^twcjn the 2()th and 30th parallels. " We etcnmed from lat. 21" 30' N. to lat. 32" 10' N., o distance cf CG8 miles, through a '■ length and duration of calm greater than I can ever reraeraber. On no occaision " were the slight flaws of wind more than force 1 or 2." — Captain's Ilemark Book H.M.S. Sutlrj, May 1863. . i;/.'.U>ii1l .1 1 i .ish'd"'- I"'' '.■ 1 'in lUii! ■ i' It -OH! -•>! ; I i.iii: 1 ' I '"I •• I. ■// L__^ ,. , • III j-lV lt',i'>!! ' . . .-.I \\l\- '■- i-''' 'I ,-; ./ y.i .\'l '■ , . i:7..'.U/itliV' - ,1 ", iu\\ --111 1,111.' -iMliil' ' 'I- .., ^'iiiyl 111 '.."■!■"' ] ,, ; '[[.'H')/-' •■■'■ I .ur^>li^■l •••^ '. '.",1 io ui;i' ' • ,, w,, ii-n;'.! -.li • "I 1 M''i .--.iii'l' .•'•■' ' INTRODUCTORY CHAP.] PASSAGES. 15 and West all the year round and, except between the months of February and June, is fairly strong. A vessel should, therefore, at all seasons make the best of her way to the southward, keeping as nearly as possible on the meridian of 80° W. until lat. 5° N. is reached, when, if the wind will allow, make a south-west course,* and should the wind be light and variable with rain make every endeavour to get to the southward. When lat. 2° N. is reached, a vessel may, between June and Januai-y, stand to the westward carrying S.W. winds as far us 85" W., after which the wind will haul to the southwiird and south-eastward settling into the south-east trade wind. Pass north- ward of the Galapagjs islands, keeping on the parallel of 2° N. until the meridian of 105° W. is reached, when edge away to pass westward of Clipperton island, in the neighbourhood of which the north-east trade wind will be met with, when stand to the north-west to cross the parallel of 20*^ N. in long. 120*^ W., after which pursue the same course as if bound from Valparaiso. {See page 14.) Between January and April, however, it is better to cross the equator between the Galapagos islands and the mainland before stsinding to the wostv/ard. Southwanl of lat. 1° N. the wind will be found to haul to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast. At this season vessels should keep to the southward of the tMiuator until westward of long. 105° W., when proceed as bcifore directed. Auxiliary steam. — Vessels with au liary steam power bound from Panama to Vancouver Island should stretch ulf on a W. by N. (true) course (or, until the parallel of 12° N. is gained, a little more northerly), passing the meridian of Acapulco in about lat. 13° N. The eastern limit of the north-east trade wind is uncertain, but it will generally bo met with in about long. 103° W., i.e., at about 300 miles from the land. When first falling in with it the W. by N. course should be maintained, as by sfoering more to the northward the trade wind will be found to hang to th( north, and north-west. The meridian of 110° W. should bo crossed in lat. 14° N., after which steer to cross the 130th meridian in about lat. 30° N., when steer Northward as far as Int. 10° N., or until the westerly winds are reached, and thence gradually edge away for the port.f VANCOUVER ISLAND to PANAMA (Sailing).— Sailing >« jaels making this passage between the months of December autl May, inclusive, when the prevailing winds on the west coast of Mexico are ii • Sliould the wind be westward of s.W. stand to the southAviird, but if southward of S.W. staud to the wcBtward. t These directions are based on the passnges made by H.M. Ships Siillrj, Bacchante, Camel.on, iuA Tribune, in the nionihs of March, April, and May, and October to Janrary 1861-66. * N^r A''iinirvltyi-hiirbi :— Cape Corrient>'v t. to exist in a i)().sition situiitod about N.W. by W. \ W. Mf litilcH from cape Flattery lightliouse. II. M.S. Swijl'mre in 188l> obtained a sounding of 20 futhonis in this vicinity. t oi^gv,, * See plan of Duncan rock on Admiralty chart No. 2,531 ; scale, m = 2 inches. t Renmrk Imok, Lientonant E. Loah. [t.M.S. Sirifl.vi,r, \t^X\). S,r A.liniriilt.v chart :— .Iiian do Fueo Htrait. No. I .'.'1 1 . 18 JTJAN DE rUOA AND IIARO STRAITS. [CIIAP. I. Discovery ; on tlie northern side, before rounding the Race islands, are port San Juan, Sooke inlet, and Becher bay, after Avhich excellent anchorage may be always obtained with westerly winds. On the northern, or Vancouver island shore of the strait, the hills rise gradually and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great elevation ; on the southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad moun- tains known as the Olympian range, rise more abruptly and vary in elevation from 4,000 to more than 7,000 feet ; but though excec<; \p ^rtilmiit strength of the ebb stream and the southeriy current, and u zone ot deep CHAP. I.] SOUNDINGS. — CAPE FLATTERY. — TATOOSII ISLAND. 19 I x^f if.'iii-'jiiti H ui i«iz').'< water about 3 miles in width, with from 140 to loO fathoms, extends in that direction to the 48° parallel ; between it and the shore, a distance of about 8 miles, the depth decreases suddenly to 30 fathoms fine dark sand, and immediately outnidc it from 67 to 80 fathoms will be found. CAPE FLATTERY, or Classet, is a remarkable point of land, distinctly seen at a distance of 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to a thickly wooded mountain nearly 2,000 foet high, with an irregular shaped summit, and falling again at the distance of 3 or 4 miles to the eastward. When seen from the southward or south-west it has the appearance of an island, being separated by a stretch of low land from hills of the same or greater elevation, which rise again immediately southward of it. On a nearer view, the headland itself, with its wild off-lying rocks over which the sea is almost constantly breaking, presents an uninviting appear- ance ; it is a rugged sea-worn cliff of no great elevation, rising gradually to its more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the cape the coast trends E. by N. | N. for 4 miles to Neeah bay, and though no dangers exist half-a-mile from the shore eastward fiom the cape, there is generally a heavy swell with irregular tides, and vessels are by no means recommended to approach it within one mile. TATOOSH ISLAND, lying half a mile W.N.W. from cape Flattery, is a steep, almost perpend icidar rocky islet, bare of trees, and 100 feet high, with some reefs extending a short distance off its western side ; the lighthouse known among seamen as cape Flattery light, stands on the summit of the island, which with its outlying reef is the most western portion of the United States. IiIGHT. — From the above lighthouse (which consists of a keeper's dwelling of stone, with a white tower rising above it, surmounted by an iron lanteni painted red, its height being 64 feet above the summit of the island), is exhibited a Jixcd white light of the first order, elevated 162 feet above the mean level of the sea, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 19 miles. Vessels from the southward will make it before being up with the Flattery rocks. A sector of red light of 7° 15' is shown from the lighthouse between the bearings of S.E. ^ S. and S.S.E. | E., covering Duncan and Duntze rocks. Pog signal. — A steam fog whistle is sounded for eiffht seconds at intervals oi Jifty-tioo seconds, during thick weather. Duncan rock* lies one mile N.W. | N. from Tatoosh island ; it is a few feet above water, but the sea always breaks over it. There is deep water between it and the island, but vessels should not take the passage, ♦ See plan of Duncan rock on Admiralty chart No. 2,531 ; scale, m ^ 2 inches. t Remark l)ook, Lieutenant E. Leah, [l.M.S. Sn-iftxinr, 1SS<.», chart :— .Tiian do Fncn strait, No. I .'.>! 1 . Sir Afliniraltv 20 JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS. [cnxp. 1, unless carried hy tho tide Into such a position as would cause them to incur dan";er in endeavonrin" to avoid it. DuntZO rock, on which is a depth of 3 fathoms, lies about one in the channel between it and the shore is a depth of 12 fathoms. DIRECTIONS. — Vessels from the southward or westward bound for Fuca strait, except the coasting steamers which all carry pilots, should make cape Flattery ; there is no inducement to hug the coast, on which a long rolling swell frequently sets, and this swell meeting the south- easterly gales of winter, causes a confused sea. The cape and its ofF-lying rocks should not be approached within a distance of at least 3 miles, as the tide occasionally sets over Duncan and Duntze rocks with great velocity (page 11) ; the southerly current should also be guarded against, (page 10), an additional reason why these dangers should not be too closely approached. It is equally necessary when either entering or leaving the strait to avoid the coast of Vancouver island between port San Juan and Bonilla point, when there is any appearance of bad weather. It is recommended to pass at the distance of at least 10 miles from the coast, unless working to windward against a fine northerly wind, t t * See Admiralty chart : — Cape Mendocino to Vancouver island, No. 2,531 ; scale, » 0*07 of an inch. OUAP. I.] THE COAST. — DIllECTIONS. 21 which is froquontly found during summer, when it may be safely approached w thin 3 miles or less.* To vessels making the strait in bad weather it will be more desirable to run in and seek shelter than to remain outside. If thojand has been made cither to the southward of cape Flattery or on the Vancouver island shore within a moderate distance of the entrance, or if the latitude can be relied upon within 2 or 3 miles, it will be nxlvisable to run for the strait. The powerful light on Tatoosh island will, unless in very thick weather, or fog, be seeu from a distance of 15 miles, and as soon as a vessel is actually within the strait she will have comparatively smooth water, with sufficient sea room, and may run boldly up the centre for the Race light, or if preferred, by the assistance of that on Tatoosh island, maintain her position in the strait. It is to be remarked, that when Tatoosh island light is brought to bear to the westward of W.S.W., it becomes shut in by the land about Neenh bay, and that Race island light becomes obscured by Beechey head when brought to bear eastward of E. by N. ^ N. therefore, when either of these lights are obscured, by being shut in by the land before mentioned, the distance from either coast will be accurately judged, and in the latter case a ship will be getting too close to the northern shore. Coming from the westward with a heavy westerly or north-west gale, thick weather, and uncertain of the latitude, it would be prudent to lay to at not less than 30 miles from the entrance of the strait, or on the edge of the bank of soundings. These gales seldom last more than 12 hours, and if they veer towards the S.W. the weather will clear, and a vessel may immediately bear up for the strait. With a S.E. gale it is recommended to close the land, as smoother water will be obtiiined, and the bank of soundings off the Vancouver island shore will give a ves.sel pretty accurately her distance from the land. Gales from this quarter sometiujes continue in the winter season for 30 hours, and when a vessel strikes soundings on the edge of the bank in 90 fathoms, and carries them into 60 she may put her head to tlie S.W., and will have plenty of room for drift. It is of great importance in making the strait during bad weather to strike the outer edge of the bank of soundings, as the ship's distance from the land will then be accurately known. It has been already observed (page 18) that after running 20 miles eastward the depth * Ships nt'iiring the strait in the night, or iu thick weather, should be certaiu of their latitude ; and as rocks lie some distance off the coast to the southward of capo Flattery, and it is therefore dangerous to approach, it is safer to be in error to the northward than to the .southward. The coast of Vancouver is comparatively bold, the bank of soundings extends a considerable distance from the land, and the light on cape Beale is visible for a distance of 19 miles. The current that is usually found setting across the entrance of the strait to the S.E. should be particularly guarded against. 22 JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS. [CIlAl*. I, increases from 55 to 80 and 90 fathoms, which latter depths, if the lead has not been previously kept going, might be mistaken for the outer edge of the bank. Should a sailing vessel be overtaken by one of those dense f'og.^ which sometimes hang over the entrance of the strait (page 0) she should not close the land, but stand olf suiliciontly far to avoid being set by the southerly current too near oupe Flattery, If a steamer has made the land or light ou Tatoosh island, and is certain of her jiosition, she should get the northern or Vancouver island shore aboard, when, with the assistance of the chart and lead, she may feel her way in.* When 8 or 10 miles eastward of port San Juan there is anchoring ground in 12 fathoms one mile from the shore, anil if the fog is very dense a stranger should anchor ; it must be remarked, however, that not unfrc]uently the weather is clear a few miles within the strait while the entrance is totally obscured. NEiiAH BAYt ^^ formed between Koikla point and Wyadda island ; the latter, half a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is narrow and covered with pine trees. Koikla point is 4 miles E.N.E. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island. The bay offers a safe and convenient anchorage to vessels meeting S.W. or S.E. gales at the entrance of the strait, and is sheltered from W. by S. round by south to N.E. The western shore is steep and cliffy, but a reef extends for more than one cable's length off Koikla point, and a sand-bank which dries extends off one-quarter of a mile at low water from the shore abreast the cliffs. The head of the bay is a low sandy beach, on which the surf generally breaks. On the eastern side of the bay off the south-west side of Wyadda island, a rocky ledge and shoal water extend for 3 cables, and the holding ground is not so good on the island side. AucllOrSlgO. — A good berth will be found in Neeah bay, in 6 fathoms sandy bottom, with the outer point of Wyadda island bearing N.E. by N., and Koikla point W.by N. ; a short distance within this position kelp grows in large patches all over the bay, and some care is necessary in selecting a berth. Large sailing vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms a little outside the above bearings, in the centre of the bay, with the outer point of the island bearing N.E. by E. Directions. — A. vessel should leave this bay on any indication of a noi'th-east wind, and if too late, and unable to weather Wyaddr^ island, she may, with the assistance of the chart, run between it and the main ; the passage is 2 cables in breadth, and the least water 21 feet ; she must, however, be c.ireful to avoid the ledge off the south-west end of Wyatlda, ^ T * Sailing vessels, during gales from S.W. or West, lie to under the south shore of the strait insidi; Neeah bay, in preference to anchoring in Neeah bay. f See Admiralty plan of Neeah bay on chart No. 1,911 ; scale, 7h = 2 • inches. CUM'. I.] NEEAH HAY. — CALLAM BAY. 23 At T and in Imuling out should give tlio custern Hide of tlmt island a berth of at least one (juartor of a mile. Vessels have ridden out north-west gales close to the south-cast end of Wyadda in 6 fathoms water, but it is more prudent to get out into the btrait at the commencement of the gale. During ntrong westerly or south-west galesi, or after they have been blowing outside, a considerable swell rolls into the bay, which renders it at such times a somewhat disagreeable though not unsafe anchorage ; small vessels may go close in and got smooth water, even among the kelp which grows in 4 and 5 fathoms water. Tides. — It is liigh water at full and change in Neeah bay at Oh. 33m. ; springs rise 7^ feet, neaps rise 6| feet. CALLAM BAY lies 15 miles E. J S. from Neeah Imy, the intervening coast being nearly straight, and the shore bold. The only remarkable feature is Klaholoh (Seal rock), 150 feet high, lying a short distance off shore at 2 miles eastward of Wyadda island. If a vessel reaches aa high as Callam bay, and meets an easterly or south-cast wind, she may obtain temporary anchorage and shelter in the centre of the bay in from 8 to 10 fathoms. Callam bay is easily recognized by Slip point its eastern bluff, which is the western termination of a bold coast ridge, about 1,000 feet in elevation. The COAST ft'om Callam bay continues in the same direction fot 8 miles to Pillar point, so called from its terminating in a bare columnar- shaped rock, somewhat remarkable, from its contrast to the general charac- •teristics of the country (thickly wooded from summit to water line), where few objects present themselves by which vessels may accurately fix their positions. The coast on the east side of this point forms a small bight, in which there is a considerable stream and an Indian village, and then trends E. by N. with a gentle curve to Striped peak; a small river, the Lyre, enters the strait just eastward of a low point 7 miles westward from the peak. Striped peak is rather remarkable from a landslij> occurring down its face ; at 1^ miles westward from the peak, and one-third of a mile off the west point of Crescent bay (merely an indentation) lies a rock on which the sea breaks ut low water : this is the only danger which occurs on the southern side of the strait. Westward from this, kelp grows a short distance from the beach on the somewhat sheltered part between Striped peak and Pillar point, and here the depth of water at one mile from the shore varies from 8 to IG fathoms ; westward from Pillar point it deepens to 40 fathoms, at that distance. FRESHWATER BAY, at 3 mues eastward from Striped peak, between Observatory and Angelos points, is nearly one mile deep, and more than 2 miles wide in an east and west direction. The two entrance points are E. by N., and W. by S. of each other, and Avithin this line the depth jsmmaa 24 JUAN DE rUCA AND HAllO STRAITS. [cuAr. I. varies from 6 to 12 fathoms. Observatory point has several rocks short distance off it ; tlie western side of the bay is a high bold shoi-e. Angelos point, the eastern entrance point, is low ; the river Ealwha flowing through it, forms a delta, and has caused a bank with a depth of water on it varying from 2 fathoms close in shore, to 10 fathoms at the distance of one mile. Vessels may anchor within the line of the points in from 6 to 9 fatuoms. PORT ANGELOS, oi False Dnngeness, is 7 miles eastward from the east point of Freshwater bay, tlie intervening coast forming rather a deep indentation to the southward, oif which as little as 3 fathoms water is found nearly one mile from the shore. The north side of the port is Iwunded by one of those low narrow sand or shingle spits which are a characteristic feature of the country ; this spit, which h named Ediz hook, curves from a higli bluft in an E.N.E. direction for nearly 3 miles, and forms a large and good harbour. On the north, or spit hide, the water is deep, varying from 15 to 30 fathoms; but southward of a line drawn through the cenf''c there is excellent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms in any part of the i)ort. Tlie outer part of the spit is steep-to, and may be rounded close to, after wliich the port extends for 2^ miles in a westerly direction, by more than one mile in breadth. Although open to easterly winds, they do not blow home. The lighthouse on Eruliug from the point. >iMS>Z. SHSSSTil sEsnnn 26 JUAN DE FUCA AND HAKO STEAITS. LunAP. I. Tides. — It is liigb water, full aud change, at New Dungeness at CI:., and the rise is o feet. WASHINGTON HARBOUR. — The coast from New Dungeness trends to the S.S.E. for nearly 7 miles, and forms a deep in- dentation, in the western corner of which is Washington harbour, and in the eastern port Discovery. The entrance to the former is almost closed by a long sand spit extending from the eastern side, leaving a narrow channel with only 2 fathoina water, which deepens within to 13 fathoms; therefore, as a harbour, it is of little importance when there are so many good ones in the neighbourhood, PORT DISCOVERY,* the harbour where Vancouver anchored and refitted his ships, and from whence he commenced his exploration of these regions in May 1792, is an extensive inlet running in a southeily and south-east direction for 6 miles, with an average breadth of H miles ; the general depth of water is from 20 to .30 fathoms, but an anchorage may be had on the west side 1^- miles within the entrance in 15 fathoms, close to the shore. The water shoals rapidly towardg the head of the port to 10 fathoms, aud a mud flat extends about one mile from its head ; this, indeed, is the general feature of all the deep water inlets on these coasts, unless the ri^ers or streams which flow into them are of suflicient magni- tude to cause an adequate scouring power, and more equally distribute the deposit which they bring down with them. Protection island lies immediately off the entrance of the port, and shelters it from north-west winds. The north side of the island is shoal for half a mile off, and there is a 3~fathom patch, named Dallas shoal, bear- ijig N.W. distant 2 miles from its north point; reefs extend also off the east, west, and south points for half a mile, but there are clear deep channels between it and the main ; that to the southward being one mile in breadth, and that to the eastward 1^ miles. A black liuoy is moored on the extremity of the reef, extending from the south end of the island. Directions. — A spit extends a short distance off Clallam point, the western i)oint of entrance ; and in working up, some of the prominent points should not be closely approached, as the soil breaking away from the neighbouring cliffs has formed a bank off most of them. ADMIRALTY INLET. — At ll miles E.N.E. from New Dungeness light, is the entrance to Admiralty inlet, between Wilson point on the south and Partridge point on the north, the latter a remarkable sloping ♦ It is high water, full and change, in port Digcovery at 2h. 80m. ; springs rise 7 feet. A hiack and red buoy Ih moored on the e«lge of the shoal extending from Middle point, 2j miles N. by E. f E. from cape George, the north-enst entrance point of port Discovery. -4 n!IBMHMMHIIMHI—.!ii mmmmmisis! SXSSSBSS CHAP. I.] POUT DISCOVERY. — .IDMIRAJiTY INLET, &C'. 27 ciiff of a whitish colour ; anil here commences that extensive and sino;ulnr series of iuUviid navigation, which penetrates the continent in a general southerly direction for neJirly 90 milcH. These waters were first explored by Vancouver, and have since undergone a more detailed examination by the United States Government.* Buoy. — A red buoy is moored on the edge of the bank that extends from Partridge point, LIGHTS^.— Wilson Point.— From the top of the light-keeper's dwelling (white) situated on Wilson point is exhibited, at an elevation of 53 feet above the sea, a ^'^-erf white light, which should be feen in clear weather from a distance of 12 miles. | Pog signal. — A steam-whistle giving a blast of eight seconds duration each minufe is sounded in thick or /oggy weather from Wilson point. Admiralty Head. — Also from a light-keeper's dwelling* (white) 41 feet high, situated on Admiralty head, which forms the inner eastern entrance point of the inlet, and bears N.E. by E. distant 3;^ miles from Wilson point, is exhibited, at an elevation of 108 feet above the sea, ? Jixed white iight, which should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 16 miles. PORT TOWNSHEND lies just within the entrance to Admirnity inlet, and is the port of entry for Washington territoi-y. Vessels leaving Fuca strait have fi'equently. v.'hen overtaken bj/ a westerly gfvle, been compelled to bear up and seek shelter in it. Although a safe harbour, from it« great extent it is subject to a disagreeable sea during strong winds, and v/ith a strong south-easter iauding is frequently im[)racticable, and a dangerous sea for boats gets up. The entrance is between Wilson and Marrowstone points,^ the latter bearing from the former E.S.E. distant 3|f mjhjs. At 1^ miles south-east from Wilson point, and on the same side, is Hudson point, the distance between which a'ld Marrowstone point is 2 miles; and ix'twecn these two points is more prtiperly the true entrance to the po'-t, which takes a S.S.W. direction for 2 miles, and then S.E,. by S. for about 3 miles, the average breadth l>eing nearly 2 miles. The genera! depth uf -s-ater is from 9 to 1.5 fathoms good holding ground; soft mud when within Hudson point. * A ridgo about one mile wide (Partridge bank), extending Z\ miks in a W.X.W. iind E.S.E. direction, is situated W.N.W. of Partridge point, its eastern end being \\ miles from tho point. The shoule-st part, n umall patch of 2| fathouim, lies 3J^ miles \V. by N. \ N. from Piinridge point, and 83 miles S.S.E. \ E. from the lighthouse on Smith island. Dcpth.s of 4 and 5 fathoms extend one milo to the north westward of the patch, and the water then deepens to 7 fathoms, this latter depth beinfif found at a dibtance of 1\ mile* from Smith island ; to the south-ciistward of the patch the depths are 7 and 9 fathoms. A hlarh buoy is moored on the north-western edge of the patch of a J fathoms. t A new nil stake light is exhibited on the point, S.S.'.3. \ E. distant 1^ milcf. from Wilson point lighthouse. A new nd buoy has been moored S.E. ] S. \\ miles from Wilson point lighthouse. X Marrowstone, Hush, No point, West and Pull points are all very low spits. Commander Edwards, R.N., H.M.S. Mutine, 1884. mam M wmm 28 JUAN DE FUCA AND HAEO STEAITS. [CHAr. I, Wilson point is low, with sand hillocks on its extreme ; a slioal spit extends for nearly half a mile off it, and vessels are recommended to give it a berth of nearly one mile in rounding ; the tides are strong, and when blowing fresh, a heavy ripple occurs in the neighbourhood. Anchorage. — At lialf a mile within Hudson point there is good anchorage off the houses on the western side of the port, in 10 fathoms at half a mile from the shore. During winter^ S.E. gales are not unfrequent, and sliips are recommended at this season to anchor farther oil shore ; the low sand hummock on Xhe extreme of Wilson point, just in line with, or shut in by the high part of Hudson point, bearing N. by W. ^ W., is a good berth in 12 or 14 fathoms, about one mile from the shore. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port Townshend at 3h. 4f)m.; springs rise 5^, neaps 5 feet. HOOD CANAL. — Southward from port Townshend, Admiralty inlet continues as a broad deep channel as far as Foulweather bluff distant 10 miles: here a branch named Hood canal takes a nearly due south direction for 40 miles, suddenly turning to the north-east for a further distance of 10 miles, and terminat ng in Lynch cove. The average width of this inlet is only a little over one mile, but the water in it is very deep, there being depths of from 50 to 60 fathoms throughout its greater part. The main arm of Admiralty inlet continues in an E.S.E. direction for about 8 miles from Foulweather bluff,* it then trends S.S.S. for a distance of 22 miles to the north end of Vashou island, wher^ a branch named Colvas passage takes a S. by E. direction for II miles to the entrance of thfj narrows leading into Paget sound.* Point No point. — At 3J miles E. \ S. from Foulweather bluff is point No point, a low spit jutting out from the foot of the cliffs. LIGHT. — From a white lighthouse 20 feet high, situated on point No point, is exhibited, at an elevation of 27 feet above the sea, a Jixed white light, which should be visible in clear weiither from a distance of 10 miles. The lantern and dome are painted red. Fog signal. — A bell is sounded trom the outer end of No point spit during thicker foggy weather ; it is struck by machinery giving a single blow every ten seconds. Port Madison is situated on the western sliore of Admiralty inlet nt about 11 milen S.S.E. from point No point, and on tlie southern shore of an op'u bay in which the water is deep. West point, — On the east shore of Admiralty inlet, about 4 miles E.S.E. from port Madison, is low and projects to the eastward. < I * A hiach buoy h moored on the ixtreiuitj of the shoal extending about hah" a mile to the northward from Foulweather bluff. ; ■Illillillill 1 '\ 1 ,' CHAP. I.] HOOD CANAL. — PORT SAN JUAN. 29 LIGHT. — From a square, white, light-tower (with red lantern) situated on the extremity of West point is exhibited, at an elevation of 20 feet above the sea, a, flashing light showing alternately rerl ond white every ten seconds^ which should be visible in clear weatlier from a uiotanoo of iO miles. Fog Sigual. — From a frame buildi ig, one story high, painted white with a brown roof, situated between the lighthouse and the keeper's dwelling, a steam trumpet is sounded during thicK or foggy weather giving blasts of five seconds duration with intervals of t\"pnty-five seconds. Directions. — Vessels from the nortirvard after passing point No point at about one mile distant, should steer S.E. ^ S. until West point lighthouse bears S. by E. J E., when alter course to S. by E. After passing the lighthouse, which should be given a berth of one-third of a mile, bring it to bear N. by E., when steer E. \ S. for Seattle harl>our (Duwamish bay), passing Magnolia point at the distance of at least half a mile. TaCOma, « town which is rapidly increasing in importance and size, is situated on the south ,«ide of Commen"?ment bay, nt the head of Admiralty inlet. It is the terminus of a trans-continental railway, and a new pier has been built for the shipment of wheat. The anchorage is very indifferent. PI.M.S. Caroline anchored in 26 fathoms, sand, with the railway pier bearing West, and Brown point N.N.W. ^ W. about three-quarters of a cable from the edge of the bank, on approachirjg which the water shoals rapidly.* PUGET SOUND.~The inlet, from Defiance point is known as Puget souni) ; its general direction is southerly and south-westerly for upwards of 30 milesj and is split up into numerous channels and inlets towards its head, in most of which there is deep water. At the head of the sound is the town of Olympia. LIGHTS.— 5ct' footnote.! Fog signal. — On Robinson point (Maury island), Admiralty inlet, a steam whistle, which gives blasts of six seconds duration at intervals of fifty-four seconds, is sounded in thick oi- foggy weather. ' North shore of PUCA STRAIT.— PORT SAN JUANJ is the first anchorage on the north sliore within the entrance of Fuca strait. The opening, which is remarkable from seaward, is seen for a considerable distance, and appears as a deep gap between two mountain ranges; the centre of the entrance bears N.N.E. \ E. distant 13| miles from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island, and as the light is visible from the anchorage it is not difficult to enter or leave during night time. Owen point, Ht the western entrance to the port, has at a little more than one cable's length from it, a low fiat rock named Owen island, awash at high water. » Lieut. U. ff. I'owell, K.N., H.M.S. Caroline, Juiy 1887. f At UiUtprj point, a white 8(ako light i.s exhibited. At Robinson point, a rvd stake light is exhibited, At Brown point, a white stake light is exhibited. On uoith side of Eagle inliind, a white stake light is exhibited. On DofiQemyer point, a white stake light is exhibited. X See plan of port San Juau on Admiralty chart No. 1,911 ; scale, twl inch. I 30 JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS. [chap. I. Observatory rocks, off the eastern entrance point, are high pinnacles with two or three trees growing on thoin, and some smaller rocks off, the outermost of which lies li cables from the shore. At 4 cables within these rocks and IJ cjiblos from the shore is another reef partly out of water, named Hammond rocks. Tlie entrance points lie E. A N. and W. ^ S. from each other, distant nearly 1 j^ miles; the port runs nearly straight for 3h miles in a N.E. by N. direction, and carries its breadth almost to its head, which terminates in a round beach composed of muddy sand. Gordon river enters the port through the north end of this beach, and Cooper inlet penetrates its southern ; very small coasters may enter them towards high water, and find depth and shelter within. On the north side of the port some rocks and broken ground extend for one mile witliin Owen point, and nearly 2 cables' lengtiis from the shore ; one rock, awash, lies 4 cables N.E. ^ E. from Owen island, and is distant 2| cables from the shore. Anchorage. — I'le port is entirely open to sonth-Avest winds, and a heavy sea rolls in when a moderate gale is blowing from that direction; and though it is possible that a vessel with good ground tackle would ride out a gale if anchored in the most sheltered ])art, it is by no means recom- mended to remain* with any indication of such weather, but to weigh im- mediately, and if outward bound seek shelter in Necali bay, the entrance of which lies 10.^ miles S. by W. from port San Juan. There is a convenient depth of water all over port San Juan, from 6 to 9 fathoms, the bottom fine muddy sand •, when within three-(|uarters of a mile of the head it slioals to 4 fathoms, and here in heavy gales tlie sea breaks ; a flat runs off 3 cables' lengths from the liead. In the outer part of the port there is generally a swell. Good anchorage will be found about \\ miles from the head, with Owen island bearing S.W., and Adze head E.S.E., in 7 fathoms. Tlio hill named Pnudoru peak does not show as a peak within the port. The COAST. — From port San Juan the shore of Vancouvor island trends East to Shcrringham point, distant 24 miles, at. ' presents no very remarkable features ; the country is thickly wooded, and the land rises to a considerable elevation. Providence cove, accessible only to boats, lies 3 miles «;astward from San Juan ; at the distance of 4^ miles farther east, in a small l)igi»t, is a stream named Sombrio river. The river Jordan, a considerable stream, is 6^ miles westward from Shcrringham point ; between the latter and Sombrio river, depths of from 7 to 10 fathoms will be found • H.M.S. Trilmne lout both bower ftucUors hero, in 1863, in consequence of a S.W. jjale Buddenly springing up. ■■ CHAP. I.] PORT SAN JUAN. — SOOKE INLET. 31 at one inilo from the shore ; and oflf the river Jordan the latter depth extends for more than 2 miles. Eastward from Shcrringham point the shore curves a little to the north- ward, and at the distance of 4^ miles is Otter point ; the points on this side of the strait are not remarkal>le nor easily distinguished unless close in shore, some of their extremes are partially bare of trees. From Otter point, the entrance to Sooke inlet is E. by N. ^ N. 3| miles, the intervening coast forming rather a deep indentation named Sooke Imy, in which vessels may anchor in fine weather, at something more than half a mile from the shore in 8 fathoms. Caution. — Vessels running or working up the strait at night, should bo carel'ul iiot to get so near the north shore as to shut in Race island light by Beechey head. SOOKE INLET* is a remarkable sheet of water, the outer entrance to which, between Parsons and Company points, is little over half a mile in breadth, and the bar has only a depth of 14 feet on it at low water. Within the bar, the entrance proper, between Whiffin spit and Entry ledge, has 7 fathoms water, but is only 70 yards across, with a sharp turn and strong tide. Thence a narrow and tortuous channel 2i miles in length, with a general north direction, leads to a beautiful hind-locked basin, nearly 2 miles in extent, east and west, and one mile north and south, with a depth of from 8 to 16 fathoms all over it. Independently, however, of strong tides, and several sharp turns, which vessels would have to make in entering, the breadth of the deep channel seldom exceeds half a cable, and is consecpieutly only adapted for coasting vessels or small steamers, uidess at considerable inconvenience and loss of time. Gold was discovered on Leech river in 1864, and on the east side of the entrance to Sooke inlet is a copper and ii'ou mine. There are also indications of coal in the district. AncllOrage. — Vessels may anchor outside in 10 fathoms half a mile off the entrance ; or, if necessary, run inside Whiffin island, where there is sufficient space to anchor; care must, however, be taken as to the deptlis on the bur, and to the state of the tide in the entrance proper, where the ebb at springs runs about 3 or 4 knots. "Whiffin spit is low, gravelly, and connected with the western entrance; its eastern point bears N.N.E. distant three-quarters of a mile from the centre, between the two entrance points ; it must be rounded close, as a reef (Entry ledge) lies only half a cable eastward from it. On rounding the point drop the anchor at one cable's longtli within, in 8 fathoms water ; hero there is a space of deep water 2 cables in extent. * See Admiralty plan of Sooke inlet, No. 1,907 ; scnle, m = 4 inches. 32 JUAN DE FTICA AND HARO STllAITS. [chap. I. Tides. — During the winter months the rise of tide in Sooke inlet is said to be 10 feet, and it remains high water during the whole of the day. At the entrance the flood and ebb streams run one hour after high and low water at the rate of 3 to 4 knots during springs. It is high water, full and change, at 2h. Om. Secretary island, 120 feet high, small and wooded, lies 4 cables S.E. by E. from Possession point, and one mile south-eastward from Sooke inlet. There is a depth of 16 fathoms between it and the main shore, from which it is distant 1^ cables, and from it Beechey head bears E. ^ S. distant 2^ miles, with a bold steep shore between, and deep water close-to. BECHER BAY.* — Beechey head is a bold wooded cliff forming the west entrance point of Becher bay ; Church point being the eastern one. The breadth of the entrance is a little over one mile, and off the eastern side are several small wooded islands, named Bedford islands. The depth of water at the entrance varies from 20 to 50 fathoms rocky and irregular bottom ; at three-quarters of a mile within in a northerly direction are Wolfe and Frazer islands, with some small islets off them ; between these two islands, which lie East and West from each other, Frazer being on the eastern side, is the channel 4 cables wide to the anchorage ; it then takes a north-easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, where anchorage in 10 fathoms water may be had, with the centre of Frazer island bearing S.S.W. distant one quarter of a mile. AncIlOrage. — Becher bay cannot be recommended as a good anchorage ; it affords no great shelter with southerly or westerly winds, and vessels outward bound had far better wait a fair wind in Parry bay, to the northward of Race islands. DIRECTIONS. — Vessels bound up the strait, intending to go outside the Race islands, should pass the land about Beechey head at the distance of 2 miles. Steamers intending to take the Race passage may pass Church point at the distance of about half a mile, and keep the land aboard about that distance until up with Bentinck island, when the latter should be closed and kept within one quarter of a mile, or just outside the kelp. Caution. — The passage between Bentinck island and the Vancouver shore is choked with rocks, and strong tides set both inside and outside. RACE ISLANDS, i cluster of low, bare rocks, the outermost of which lies one mile S.E. from Bentinck island, at the south-east point of Vancouver island, occupy more than half a mile in extent, north and * See Admiralty plan of Becher ami Pedder bays, No. 1,906 j scale, m= 4 inches. I CHAP. I.] BECHER BAY. — RACE ISLANDS. 33 south, and the same cast and west. Great Race, the outermost rnd largest, is 1 ^ cables in extent and 28 feet high ; the others are smaller, a few feet above liigh water or awash. The tides among them run from 5 to 7 knots, and during bad weather, heavy and dangerous overfalls and tide races occur. Great Ilaco should be given a berth of one mile and a quarter, at which distance depths of from ^O to .50 fathoms will be found. Rosedale rock, with only a depth of 5 feet water on it, lies 4 cables S.E. by E. from the Great Race, and uneven ground of 5 to 8 fathoms extends half a mile eastward of the rock. In light winds a failing vessel should give these islands a good berth, especially when eastward of them, as the ebb sets strongly towards then. In 18G0 a large vessel was drifted on them by the ebb tide in a calm, and became a total loss. LIGHT. — From a stone lighthouse, painted in alternate horizontal black and white bands, situated on Great Race rock, is exhibited, at an elevation of 118 feet above the mean level of the sea, a Jlashing vrhite light, which shows a Jlash every te?i seconds, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 18 miles. Fog sigUEl. — A steam-whistle on Great Race rock will be sounded at intervals of 72 seconds during thick or foggy weather ; the duration of the blast being^ve seconds. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Race islands at 3h. Om. ; rise 8 feet. The streams (in August) turn with high and low water by the shore. RACE PASSAGE is 4 cables in breadth between the Race rocks and Bentinck island, and has a general depth of 14 fathoms, but with shoal heada of 8 and G fathoms, nearly in mid-channel. This passage may be taken by a steamer ;* but under ordinary circumstances it is not recommended for a sailing vessel, on account of the strengtli of the tides, and races caused by the irregular rocky nature of the bottom. A case may arise, however, either inward or outward bound, when a vessel overtaken by a strong S.E. wind would do better to run through, than to risk weathering the Great Race by less than 1^ miles ; if so, the Bentinck island shore should be kept aboard at a distance of 2 cables, or just outside the kelp; for the northernmost rock, which forms the southern side of tho passage, is covered at high water, and the strongest tides and eddies are found in its neighbourhood. The course through Race passage is N.N.E. and S.S.W. Tide race. — Caution. — Heavy tide races occur along the north shore of Juan de Fuca strait from Esquimalt as far westward as Beechey bead.f * Race passage should not be used by vessels of heavy draught at low water, t H.M.S. Fawn, when steaming at the rate of 6 knots, was turned round in these races. — U. Sugden, Nnvigating Lieutenant, B.N., 1874. A 17498. 34 JUAN DE FUOA AND IIARO STRAITS. [011A.P. I. RACE ISLANDS to ESQUIMALT HARBOUR.— After rounding Knee i,>*laii(l lijjlithousc nt the (li.staiu'C of one uiilo, the course for Esquimalt Imrbour isN. ^ W,, distance 8^ miles. The lighthouse on Fisgurd island, a white tower elevated 70 feet nhovo the sea, at the western entrance point of the harbour, is very conspicuous, and will he seen imme- diatel}' on rounding the Race islands ; a course direct for it will clear all dangers, but attention must bo paid to the set of the tides. The ebbtide nins almost directly from the Haro and neighbouring straits towards the Race islands, and a sailing vessel, unless with a coi.imanding wind, should give them n berth of more than one mile, and steer N.E. by N. for 3 or 4 miles, before bearing up for the harbour. The flood sets to the N.E., and with light winds vessels are liable to be carried to the eastward, and if near to the Vancouver island shore, they may be sot up the Haro channel, where the water is generally too deep for anchorage ; therefore, with the flood, the coast of Parry bay should be kept aboard if possible, where good anchorage may be had in moderate weather, and with all westerly v/inds, at less than one mile from the shore in 10 fathoms. By night, when Fisgard island light bears N. by W., a vessel may steer boldly for it. The only precaution necessary is to keep the white light in full view ; if it becomes dim or shaded, the shore is being too closely approached and the vessel should ir'mcdiately haul out to the eastward until it is again distinctly seen ; the two lights by their bearings will immediately show how the vessel is being aft'ected by the tides. Entering Esquimalt harbour, the Fisgard island light should be left from one to two cables on the port hand ; when it bears N.W. by W. ^ W. the light changes from white to rcd^ and shows the latter colour within the harbour ; and when it bears S. by W. at a convenient distance, a vessel may anchor in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance cove if preferred. The Scrogg rocks on the eastern side of the entrance of the harbour must be avoided ; they lie nearly 4 cables E.S.E. from Fisgard island. If not desiring to enter the harbour at night, good anchorage may be had in Royal roads, in 9 fathoms, with Fisgard island light bearing N. by W. from half a mile to one mile distant. The entrance to Victoria harbour being only 2 miles eastward from Esqui- malt, the same precautions as regards the tides must be observed when making for that harbour. The course from one mile off the Race islands is N. f E. ; during daytime Victoria District church, u conspicuous white building with a spire, standing on an eminence, will be seen shortly after rounding these islands bearing N. by E. ^ E. ; it should be kept just on the starboard bow. At night or during bad weather it is strongly recom- mended not to run for this harbour, as it can only be entered at certain stages of the tide, and the anchorage outside is at such times exposed and CII.VP. I.] BENTINCK ISLAND. — PEDDER BAY. 35 unsafe, while Royal bay, or Esqtiiinnlt linrhoiu- arc always available and safe; but if it is decided to run for Victoria, it must l)0 borne in mind that wlion Flsgard islanil light changos from white to red, a vessel will be very near tli -bore.* BENTINCK ISLAND, lying close off the south-cast point of Vancouver island, is little over half a mile in extent, and irregularly shaped, being almost divided in the centre by a narrow neck of land. It is about 100 feet high, and, like the adjacent land, covered witli pino trees ; its southern and eastern sides are fringed with kelp, outside which there are no dangers beyond thosv described in the Race channel. Rctweon it and the mainland is a boat c lanncl, and coasters acquainted with the locrlity find shelter at its eastern entrance ; there are some settlers' houses in the neighbourlioc 1. Between lionlinck island and Esquimalt harbour, a distance of 8 miles, the coast is indented by scvei-al bays, and anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms anywht re within one mile of the shore, except immediately off William and Albert heads ; the only dangers are a reef lying about one cable's length off Albert head, and Coghlan rock in Royal bay, lying 3^ cables N.N.W. from same head.. PEDDER B AY,t tJ>c first of these indentations, has its entrance immediately northward of licntinck island, 2 miles N.N.W. of the Great Race rock, between cape Calvor and William head, where its breadth is three-quarters of a mile ; the inlet takes a W.N.W. direction for 2 miles, narrowing rapidly, and at half a mile up is only fit for small craft, which may find good shelter at its head. Anchorage. — Vessels of any si/e may anchor in the entrance in 7 fathoms, with cape Calver, its southern point, bearing 8.E. by S. distant about half a mile ; but though the holding ground is gootl, it is open to all winds from N.N.E. round by east to S.S.E., and with a S.E. gale would neither be a desirable nor safe anchorage. Tides. — The tides on the Vancouver island shore are very irregular in this locality. In Redder bay (in October) the tide at high water was observed to fall about one foot and then to rise again. When the ebb stream had slackened in the offing, the tide i-apidly fell in Redder bay. The ebb stream coming round William head is diverted into Redder bay and prevents the water from leaving it ; Becher bay is subject to tlu> same irregularities. • See Admiralty charts: — Hnro and Kosario straits, No. 2,689 ; scale, rn = • 5 inch and Iluro strait and Middle channel, No. 2,84c , scale, ?« = 1 inch, f See Adiniriilty plan of IJecher and Tedder bays, No. 1,906 ; scale, m = 4 inches. C 2 36 JUAN DE FUCA AND IIAEO STRAITS. [cuAr. ir The stronm in tho offing runs nbout 2 Iiours after liigh unil low water by tho shore. A south-west wind fre(iuentl/ prevents tho water from falling nt all. PARRY BAY, immodiatcly nortliwanl from William head, affords good anchorage with all westerly winds. Vessels bomul to sea and meet- ing witii a strong wind from this (luartcr arc reconimentled to return here. With a south-east wind there is ample room to weigh, which a vessel should immediately do, and if not able to rouud tho Kacc islands and proeeed to sea, she should run for Esquimalt harbour. Albert head, the north point of the bay, is moderately high, sloping to the sea, bare of trees at its extreme, but wooded immediately b'.ihind ; a reef lies one cable off it. William head somewhat resembles it, but is lower. The water is too deep for anchorage immediately off these heads. Coghlan rock, on which there is only a depth of 2 fathoms, but •with deep water all around it, lies 3^ cables N.N.W. from AUwrt head ; and 35 cables E.N.E. from the islet at the entrance of tho lagoon to the northward. Anchorage. — The anchorage is in 9 fathoms at from half to three- quarters (^fa mile off the sandy beach, with William head bearing S.E. by S. about the same distance. ROYAL BAY or ROADS, "f which Albert head is the southern point, and the entrance of Esquimalt harbour the northern limit, is a fine sheet of water 3 miles in extent, affording good anchorage with all winds which would prevent a vessel from entering that harbour. Anchorage miy be had anywhere; within three-quarters of a mile from the western shore. A good berth is one mile south from Duntze head, with the entrance open, or the beacon on Dyko point just oi)on of Juskip rocks (in the harbour) ; this latter is also the leading mark for clearing the Scrogg rocks when steering in or out. FISGARD LIGHT. — From a white lighthouse situated on Fisgard island (a small rocky islet 25 feet high, and almost connected with the shore, forming the western entrance point of Esfiuimalt harbour), at an elevation of 70 feet above the mean level c obtained from Victoria. Coal. — Independent of the supply kept at the naval establishment on Thetis island n stock of 5,000 tons of coal is maintjiincd at Esquimalt. Vessels of about 15 feet draught can coal alongside Thetis island wharf ; regard should, however, be paid lO the 15 feet shoal, which lies GO yards from the liigh water mark of the island, in the direction of the pier. Vessels can also coal alongside u wharf ; on the east side of whieli there is a depth of 25 feet at low water. Or coal can be taken on board ut all times from colliers or boats alongside. Water may bo obtained during the win'ter months without difliculty from the many streams that dy dangers. He on the eastern .side of the entrance 3 cables S.S.K. from Duntze head, and cover at three-(iuarters 11o(k1. Inskip islands kept well open of the head leads clear to the westward of them ; but the bcit mark for entering with a leading wind is the beacon on Dyke point, just open of the rocks oil' the western end of Inskip 'slunds, bearing N. by Vv'. \ W,, Avhieh leads in inid-chainiel. Fisgard island should not be pas.scd within less than one cable's length keeping just outside the kelp, which extends about half a cable eastward from it, as a rock with only 7 feet water over it lies three-(iuarters of a cable north-east from the lighthouse. Buoy. — i'be shoal, with only 4 feet on it at low water, lying .south of Village rocks, is marked by a red nmi buoy. This shoal was formerly the foundation of the 7" head of Foster's pier, which has fallen into decay, there being now only a portion of the pier standing. Whale rock, with only 7 feet on it at low water, lies 2 cables W. ^ N. from the outer Inskip island, or nearly midway between it and the western shore of the harbour. This rock is of small extent, and not marked by kelp ; it has a clear passage on either side, that to tho eastward being caAT.i.] ESQUIMALT HARBOUll.— VICTORIA HAEBOTJR. 39 the wider. Yew and Rodd points, just touching, point to the rock ; Yew point, just toucliing th«! lightliousc on Fisgard island, bearing S. by E. ^ E., lca' 45" W. Directions. — Vessels entering the harbour at uight with a strong wind after them, should trke care to .shorten sail in time, as the space for rounding to is somewhat limited ; and it is desirable to moor if any stay is intended, as the winds arc changeable. The best time for sailing vessels to leave the harbour is early in the morning, wliei ei>her a calm or light land wind may be expected ; there is little strength of tide in the harbour, or for some distance outside, and it sets f '.-rly in and out. VICTORIA HARBOUR,t a little more than 2 miles eastward from Escpumalt, bus its entr.uice between Ogden and MacLaughlin points. Alacaulay point, a remarkablt; i)r()joction nearly midway between the two harbiturs, is a bare flat [)oint about 30 feet high, showing as a yellow clay clilf, worn by the action of the sea and weather into a rounded knob at the extreme. Tiic coast for one mile on either side of this point is frl'iged with sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boats in Imd weather, m.my fatal accidents having occurred. The entrance to the harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with S.W. or S.E. gules a heavy rolling swell sets on the cojvst, which rendi'rs the anchorage outside unsafe, while vessels of burthi-n cannot run in for shelter unless at or near high wat^jr. Vessels drawing 14 or 15 feet valor * Sec Ailiuhalty plan : — CoDBtancc cove. No. 572 ; scale, m = IS inches, t Sie Ailminilty jilan : — Kstiuiinalr and Victcria liiirboiirs. No. 570; scale, m iuchva; also Victoria Ubibour I8U7''i hcuIc, ih = lU iucLcs. 40 JUAN DE FUCA AND IIABO STKAITS. [chap. r. may, umler ordinary circHnistnnocP, enter at such times of tide ; and ships drawing 17 feet have entered, though only at the top of spring tides. Doubtless Victoria harbour is susceptible of iraprovement by artificial means, though it is improbable that it can be made a safe and con- veniciHt port of entry for vessels of even moderate tonnage, at all times of tide and weather. Victoria was selected by the Hudson's Bay Company as the depot of their establishments in coiisoqiienco of the quantity of clear good land in the inuncdiate neighbourhood, and the harbour being sufliciently spacious for the few small vessels in their employ, in these respects it was well chosen. ^'icto^ia, the seat of the government, is the largest and most important town in British Columbia, and enjoys a considerable foreign and coasting trmie, which is anniudly inereusing. Tiie resident population according to tlu' census taken in 1881 was {i,6H7 exchisive of Indians, but is now said to be nearly 12,000, and the town has made great ]trogress since 18o8, whiui it may be said to have first sprung into existence ; it now covers a large extent of ground, substantial and handsome stone and I)riek i)uihl- ings everywhere replacing the wooden structures first crec'ted. Victoria lias excellent educational institutions, hospitals, and library, and the streets are lighted by the electric light.* Harbour and pilot dues are charged ; and there are sick mariners dues of 2 cents a Ion register three times a year on vessels of 100 im" and upwards, and once a year on vessels under 100 tons. There is a quataii- tine station for })er8ons affected with infectious diseases; and a hospital for seamen who are recommended lor admission i)y masters of vussels tltat have paid sick mariners dues. At the entrance of the iiarbour, on the south side of Shoal point, there is ft wharf which is used by the San Francisco >teamers. The pier is (iOO feet in length and has a depth of 23 at low water. Along the eastern side of the harbour in front of the town there Hr<» about 400 yanls of fair wharl'iige, with a depth of from 10 to 1*5 feet at low water spring fides. Between Songhies and Limit points on the opposite side of the harbour is a small slip capable of receiving vessels of about 200 tons i)urthen 5 larger vessels, however, may luave down alongside the wharves. During the year 188() (515 vessels visited the port of Victoria of an aggregate tonnage of 36{),()28 tons: and the value of tiie ex|)oits for the year 1881 amounted to ir)k out tor vessels off the entmnce. Pilot^ige is compul.'iory to all merchant vessels, except ooaMters.;}; Brotchy ledge. — Al)out 4 cables from Holland iwint, and right in the fairway of ves.sels entering Victoria harbour from the eastward, lies the Mroteiiy ledge with <»nly T) IVet water on its shoalest part ; it is covered with kelp, and is nl)Out one cable in extent within the o-fathom line. There are 9 fathoms water between the ledge and the shore. • Tho buoy fDrmcrly iiiHrkiiif^ tho potition of Slcepor rock hat. been roinovod. t HM. jfiiii-vi-sHt'l Horkei wik.s hauioil up on it in ISB'J. X Pilots are Nt'ldom met with below tho Itaci- rociot ; but lK-tw«eii Jnnimry and July, in nKxIcratc «i'BthiT, vessels iippronc-liin^ tlio ^traits of Junn tli' Fuca iind rt'nuirin^.' n pilot, nuiy olitaJM u man compeleiit to tuku thvin to Itoyul roiulx or port 'rowu>hon(l iVom the Mchoonem ongngud in the mchI tmliory off the couxt, Itotwcon cape Itoalc and Cliiyoquot ■•ound, nl a di^tuiii'o ut' frnu! 5 to ^(t niili-« from tlii' land. Somclinn's iti Ni»'i>h bay n pilot may b< hud if a gun in tired iivii'i' in (piick siH'COKsiun. (,iun« arc UKed liy tht> xeitliiif; Mohoonors in fo^^'y weuthiT, but only onoe in 10 or 15 niiuutfi, no that a gun firi.il twice in quick MUucesRioD wuiibt not be luiitukcu. 42 JUAN DE rUCA AND HARO STllAITS. [ciur. I. Buoy. — Tliis shoal is lutirkcd by a pyniniidul buoy, coloured red and black in horizonUil stripes, and surmounted by a cage, moored 1 ^ cables S.W. from the shoal of 5 feet. The buoy is occasionally washed away during the heavy winter gales. Fisgard island lighthouse, north part of Brothers island, and Macaulay point in lino bearing W. J N., leads one cable north of tho ledge in 9 fathoms, between it and the shore ; and Fisgard i.-iland lighthouse, just open southward of Brothers ishvnd bearing W. by N. ^ N., leads 2 cables south of tho ledge in 21 fathoms water. LIGHT. — From a white wooden lighthouse 30 feet high, situated on Berens island (west side of Victoria harbour), is exhibited, at an elevation of 44 feet above the sea, ajixed bine light, which should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 6 miles. Fog signal. — A fog bell is rung during foggy weather, whenever vos.sels indicate by their whistles that they ore approaching the harbour. Directions. — The (channel is buoyed {see p. 41), but it is necessary for a stranger to take a pilot, and tho space is so confined and tortuous that a long slnp has considerable difficulty in making tho necessary turn ; a large per-centage of vosselii entering tho port, small as well as large, con- stantly run aground from these causes, or from trying to enter at an improper time uf tide, or neglecting to take a pilot. Such accidents, however, are seldom attended with more than delay and inconvenience, as tho shoalest and moft intricate part of the pa-ssage is sheltered ; when within, the port is perfectly h'.nd-locked, and vessels .nay lie in from 14 to 18 feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is limited. TidOS. — It is "^ijli water at full and change in Victoria harbour at from midnight to 3 a.m. from May to October, and during the remaining months at from noon to .'i p.m. ; springs rise 7 to 10 feet ; neaps rise 5 to 8 feet.* Tho COAST from Victoria harbour trends in an easterly direction for 2 miles to Clover point, and is for the most part faned by white sandy cliffs, varying in heigiit from 10 to 80 feet ; a sandy beach extends along tho whole way, and at one cable's distance off in many places are rocks and foul ground. Two cables east froni Iloll.ind point, and one cable oil' shore, iirc tho Glimpse reefs, which cover at three-quarters flood, and have a depth of 7 fathoms just outside them. Beacon hill, Ji gentle rise of the land, 2 cables from the water's odgo and one mile oust from the harbour, is MO feet high, grassy, and bare of tree?. Clover point, 'it 2 n»il«.-3 eastward from tho outranco to Victoria hmboiir, i.-i low, bill j ol trees, and piojectiitg ; it is Hte«!p-lo, and off it strong * On .'. Uh NovuniLjtr 5871 Ibcro wu-j ;iu uuusually high tidt, almgsi submerging foia*.i of the wLarvoB. CHAP. I.] TRLVL ISLANDS. — ENTERPRISE CUANNEL. 43 tide rips form, whicli ftrc dangerous to boats in heavy vvciithcr. Ross bay to the eastward of it is open, but scrnetimes used by small craft if wsiitliig for the tide, (here being depths of 4 to 5 fathoms at 9. cables' distance offshore Telegraph. — fhe .submarine telegi-uph cable connecting Vancouver islaiul with the United States is laid from Clover point to Nev Dungencss, see p, 25. Foul bay, nearly one milo north-east from Clover point, is of small extent and filled with rocks, OfF its entrance are the Templar rocks, with a depth of about 4 feet on thcni they are marked by kelp. Foul point, oil the cast side of Foul bay, is rocky ; but there is not less depth than 4 fathoms at one calde's distance. The land at (he baek of the point rises to a height of 230 feet, forming a rocky ridge or summit, known n« Gonzales hill. TRIAL ISLANDS, nearly \\ miles eastward from Clover point on the south tfide of Enterprise channel, are two in number, bare and rocky, but they generally npj)car as one. The south or largest island is 80 feet high, and steep-to at it? outer end ; the northern one Is low, and I'lDm it foul ground exteutls some distance. Stropg tide ripjjles prevail off the southern island especially during the floo*l, which runs nearly 6 knots at springs just outside it. INNER CHANNELS.* — The inner channels loading from Juan (1(1 Fuca strait into the Ilaro strait are the Enterprise, Moiiatt, Mayor, and Baynes channels, and Ilecate and Plumper passages. Enterprise channel, b«'tween Trial inlands and the Viincouver shore, is a naritns, tortuous, but deep channel, mueh usjd by hteamers and cop-sters trnJing to Victoria harboui*, as n slight saving of distance is effoctod, and loss tide exjjcrienc«l tlian by going south of the Trial islands ; it is about one mile loiiu, and \\tCii a cable wide, in the narrowest place, and there are not less than 24 foet water in the shoalest part. McNeil bay, "" 'he north -^Ide of the channel, to the eastward of Foul point, ;> upwards i.^" 3 cables in extent, with from 2 to 6 fatbotus water ; it is open to the southward, and foul ground exists in its east jiart, but the bay is much used by small vessels waiting for the tide. Mouatt reef, '» the eastern part of the channel, 3 cables N.E. by N. frvim north Trinl island and nearly 2 cables' lengths offshore, is a1)out one cabK' in extent, imd I'ovtrs at ont- nuarter flood ; this reef is dangerous for vessels u>4,ng tb«.^ Kuterprise -hnnncl, as it lies just north of the fairway. McNeil fwiu, juHt open west (»f Kitty islet, a bare yellow lock 4 feet >»igli on the eawt side of McNeil l>ay, bearing W. i^ N., lejvds half Sm t :~-bui'r ohannelB, No. S77 ; sculu, m -t G inches. 44 JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS. [chap. H cable south of Mouatt reef; unci Channel point in lino with tiio west side of the Great Chain islet bearing N. by E. jf E., leads nearly 2 cables cast of it. DiroctionS. — Hound (lirouf;h tho Enterprise channel to the east- ward, when past Foal bay, giro Foul point a berth of 2 or 3 cables, and steer for the west side of McNe I bay on a northerly course ; approaeli it close to, after which steer direct for Kitty islet, and when within half a cable's length of the latter, liaul quickly to tlie eastward, keeping McNeil farm just open west of Kitty ish-t, bearing W. )( N. ; this will lead safely through the narrowest part of tlie channel and south of Alouatt reof. When Channel point and the west side of Creat Chain islet come in line bearing N. by E. \ E. the vessel will bo well east of the reef, and should alter course to the northward to avoid tl»e Hrodio rock, proceeding up through any of the inner ehannels. Brodie rock, n patch of 3 fathoms least water, marked by kelp, lies nearly one mile N.E. J N. from the suniniit of the south Trial inland, and 6 cables E. ^ S. from Mouatt reef. The north point of small Trial island in line with Foul point bearing W.S.W. leads 1^ cables' lengths nortli of IJrodie rock. Foul point seen between the Trial islands bearing W. i{ S. leads 2J cables' lengths south of the rock. Cadboro point in line with tho east extremo of Great Chain island bearing N. by W. leads 2\ cables' lengths to the eastward of the rock. Gonzales point forms the south-east extreni\y of Vancouver island. It is a low salient point, rocky, bare of trees, and steep-to on tho east side. Oilk bay. — -From Gonzales point, the Vancouver shore trends to tlu' northward, and at one mile from the point forms a sandy bay which is somewhat luss than one luile in extent, and artbrds fair anchorage near its north part in from .3 to I fathoms. The best anchorage is to the northward of Mary Todd islet in the south part of the bay. This islet is bare, and ubout .30 feet higli ; at. 2 cables east from it, is Emily islet. 4 feet above high water, and the same distance soiuh from Emily islet, lies the Kobson reef, which uncovers at low water. Cadboro bay, 2^ miles to the northward from Gonzales point, is about half u niih! in eit<*nt, and open to the south-east ; no sea, however, rises within it, and there is gooil anchoraui' m from ,"! to 4 fathoms water near the entrance. Tlie Vancouver shore from Gonzales point to this bay is low and lightly timbered with dwarf oak and pine trees ; to tho northward of Oak bay it is clear of danger at one cable's distance. CTIAP. I.] MAYOR AND MOUATT CHANNELS. 15 Thd'HlOS ShOEl, on which is a depth of 2 fathoms, is of small extcMit, ftiid marked by kolp ; it lies nearly half a milo N, Ijy E. J E. from Gonzales point, at the south-west part of the Mayor channel. Channel point in line with tho west side of Great Chain islet bearing N. by E. | E., leads one cable east of this shoal; and the highest part of Trial i^jhiiid in lino with Gonzules point bearing S. J VV. leads half u cable west of it. Mayor channel, to the northward of Gonzales point, and west of Chuin islets, is about 2 miles long in a winding direction to the northward, its brea highest part of Trial island in lino with Gonzalos point, bearing S. J W., leads midway between Thames shoal and Le(! rock ; also tluKugh tho fairway of the north part of Mayor channel between Fiddle and Lewis reefs. Piddle roof, »t the north-west extrom .■ of Mayor chann(>l, and up- wards of one milo from GDnzales point, is of simiU extent, and awash at high water spring tides ; it may be approached close to on tho east side. Beacon. — A beacon, consisting of a white conical structure U feet high, surmounted by a black polo and cage 10 feet high, has been erected on Fiddle reef. Todd rock, at l^ cables W.N.W., from Fiddle ree'i, in tho entrance to Oak bay, covers at two-thirds flood, and is marked by kolp. Lewis reef, "t the north-oast part of Mayor ehanni?!, lies 2.^ cables S.E. by E., from Fi reef, and 2| cables N.VV., from Great Chain islet, covers at high water, and may be ap[)roachcd close to on the west fide. The passage between it and Chain islets is fdled with kelp, but has not less than 2 fathoms water. A beacon, consisting of a round stone lower, ooloined hhick 10 feet in height, surmounted by a cross, 16 feet above high water is situated on Lewis reef. Chain islets, midway between Discovery island and the Van- couver shore, are a bare rocky group, two-thirds of a mile long iu a westerly direction, and half a mile wide. The largest, called Great Chain islet, is about one cable in extent and 30 feet above high water ; it lies at 46 JUAN DE FUCA AND IIARO STRAITS. [chap. I. tho south-west sido of the group, and its south part may ho npproiielied to ono onhlo's distance. SponCOr ledgO, off tlicir cast sido at a distance of ] ^ ciibles I'rom the castornino.st high-water rock, in mnrkt-d hy kclj), and has 9 ft-et water ou its shoftlest pnrt ; if going through Ilccato passage it requires to be guarded against. Cadhoro point, open west of ClianncI point bearing N.N.W. § \V., leads ono cable east of this ledge through Hecate passage. Caroline reef, ^t the nortli part of the group, and connected to it by a rocky ledge, is of small extent, and covers at one quarter flootl, but is well out of the track of vessels using any of the channels. Foul ground with depths of from 3 to 4 fathoms, and marked by kelp, extemls upwards of one cable west from it. DISCOVERY ISLAND i^ 2 miles north-east from Gonzales point, at the junction of the lluro and Kuca straits. It is wooded, about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its .shores on all sides are bordered by rocks, extending in some places nior ■ tlian 2 cal>les off. Rudlin bay, on its south-east side, is filled witli rocks, and should not bo used by any vessel. LIGHT. — From n white wooden lightlionse 47 feet high, situated on tho east extreme of Discovery island, is exhibited, nt an elevation of 91 feet above high water, a fixed wiiite light, visible between the bearings of N.N.E. 5 E., through west, and S.E. \ S. (thus showing over an arc embracing Ilaro strait and Sidney channel, and the direction of Race islands). The light should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. CHATHAM ISLANDS, to tlu> north-west of Discovery island, and separated from it by n narrow boat pass, are of small extent, forming an irregular groiip, low, wooded, and almost connected with each other at low water, the tide sets with great strength through the passages between them ; tlieir west side is steejj-to. Leading point, at tiie south extreme of Chatham islands, is a bare rocky islet at high water ; to the eastward of it is a small l)oat cove Channel point, their west extreme, is also bare and steep-to ; the tide sets strongly past it. Strong Tide islet, the north-west of Chatham islands, is rocky, about 60 feet high, and wooded ; its west side fornis tho eastern boundary of Baynes channel, and is steep-to ; the ebb tide sets vt ry strongly past it, nearly 6 knots at springs. Refuge cove, on the east .side of Chatham islands, is small, and has a depth of 1^ fathoms in the centre ; coasters or small craft entangled among these islets may find shelter in it. Alpha islet, tlie easternmost of the group, is bare, and 10 feet above high water ; it is steep-to on the cast side, but only a boat should attempt to go westward, or inside it. CHAP. I.] DISCOVERY ISLAND. — HECATE AN1> PLUMPER PASSAGES. 47 Fulford roof, ^ cnbles north from the Chatham i.ilnnds, is about one cable in extent, and covers at one-tliird flood. Vessels using the Rnyne.-- channel should keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as the tide sets irregularly in its vicinity. HECATE and PLUMPER PASSAGES.-Discovery island is separated from the Chain islets by a passage lialf n mile wide in the narrowest part, forming an apparently clear and wide channel ; but near the middle of the south [)art lies Centre rock, which has only a depth of 3 feet over it, and though marked by kelp, this, from the strength of the tides, is often run under, and seldom seen. There is a deep passage on either side of this danger, the one to the westward being called Hecato, and that to the eastward, Plumper passage ; the latter is wider and best adapted for large steamers, but the tide sets very strongly through both of them. Leading marks. — Cadboro point, open west of Channel point bear- ing N.N.W". il W,, leads through Hecate passage in raid-channel, west of Centre rock. Cadboro point, well shut in north of Leading point bearing N.W. ^ N,, leads through Plumper passage in mid-channel, east of Centre rock. Baynos Channol, between Cadboro point and the Chatham islands, connecting these inner channels with Ilaro strait, is upwards of one mile long and half a mile wide'; the depths in it are irregular, varying from 2| to 30 fathoms, and the tide at springs sets through it with a velocity of 4 to 6 knots, strongest along the eastern side. FiVO-fathom shoal, which lies in the centre of the channel, is not marked by kelp. Nearly one cable N.W. from it is another shoal with only 16i feet water on it, aud extending about 83 yards north and south and 50 yards ea.«t and west ; it lies 4| cables N.W. | N. from Channel point, and 3J cables E.N.E. from Jemmy Jones islet. To avoid it a vessel should keep a little over on either side of mid-channel. CADBORO POINT, on the Vancouver shore, at he termination of the irnier channels, is nearly 3 miles north from Gonzales point, and three-quarters of a mile N.W., from the Chatham islands. It is about 50 feet high, rocky and bar%of trees. A small islet lies just ofi' it, also a reef which covers; when passing do not approach the islet within 2 cables. The coast west from Cadboro point to Cadboro bay is low, very much broken, aiul there are some off-lying rocks. Jemmy Jones islet, which is l)arc and 15 feet above high water, lies 3 cables oif shore, and 4 J cables S. by W. from Cadboro point ; foul ground extends around it for upwards of one cable in some parts, and though there is deep water between it and the shore, none except small craft should go through that passage. 4S JUAN DE FUCA AND IIARO STRAITS. [ciui. I. DIRECTIONS. — Though those inner channels are deep, thoy shouhl not be used except by steamerH of nioderato size or by Hnmll crnft, unless in cases of necessity, and a knowledge of liic tide is indispensaljlc. Coasters and small steamers, Avhon taking advantagigl» water at full and change is irregular and much in- fluenced by prevailing winds; the greatest rise and fall of tide at Discovery island is 12 feet. During summer months in these channels, the flood stream commences at 11. lo a.m., running with great strength till nearly 3 p.m., after which but little tide is fi'lt till 4 a.m. on the following day, when the ebb commences and runs strong till nearly 11a.m., the time of low water by the shore. CONSTANCE BANK, lying i» the Fuca strait, nearly (> miles S.E. by. E. ^ E. from Fisgard island lighthouse, li miles S. by \V. from Trial island, and 7 miles N.E. from Race island lighthouse, is upwards of one mile in extent with depths of from 9 to 11 fathoms, but a vessel should not anchor on it, as the bottom is rocky. ciiAi'. I] CONSTANCE, FONT^, AND MIDDLK BANKS, 'A9 FONTfi BANK, within the depths of 10 fnthoms, is about 1^ milos in extent ; it hu8 'Icptlis of from 3^ to 5 fiithomH on it nml ia niniked by kolp. It lies nearly in the niitldlo of Fueii strait, 6'^ milcH S. ^ W. from Cattl«> point (San Juan island), H milos E. by S. from Discovery ishind, and 8 miles VV. ^ S. from Smith or Blunt island lighthouse. This bank should bo avoided, as there may bo less water on it than shown in the chart. HARO STRAIT,* tho westernmost of the three channels leading from Fiica strait into tho strait of Georgia, is bounded on the western side by Vancouver island, and its off-lying smaller islands and reefs, ap.d on the eastern side by tho islands of San iTuan and Stuart, and trnaiis in a N.W. i)y N. dintctiun for IH miles; it then turns sharply to the N.K. round Tnni point of Stuart island, for a farther distance of 12 miles, leaving Saturna island to the westward, and VValdron and L'atos islands to the eastward, when it enters tho strait of Georgia between Saturna and Patos islands. It is for the most part a broad, anm anchorages. Sec pp. 64, 65. Middle bank, lying in the southern entrance of Ilaro strait, 4 miles E. by N. from Discovery islaml. and almost in mid-channel, is a rocky jnitch about 2 miles in extent each way, and the least water foiiml on it is 10 fathoms. In bml weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and in tho vicinity of this bank, which are dangc^rous to boats or small craft. * .Vc(; Atlmifrtlfy I'linrt:— Ilaro strait and Mitldlc channel, No. 3,840; scale, m » 1 '0 inch, t Formerly Plumper pas-*, by whioh nanif it wn- more (xoiicnilly known. A 1740H. n IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I !ri^ IIIIIM '" "■" 1 2.2 J" lig '^ it i:£ IIIIIM 1.8 1.25 1.4 jl.6 1 6" — ^ V] = 6 inches , 62 JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS. [chap. I. Scout patcll, a dangerous spit projecting from the western shore just south of Tnman point, Laa only u depth of 17 feet on it at low water; and although there is a depth of 5 fathoms iu mid-channel, great care must be exercised to avoid thio patch by vessels drawing over 14 feet. Vessels of less draught may approach the shores on either side to within three- quarters of a cable; and immediately within Pearl island, the harbour opens out to a considerable breadth. Ancll0ra>ge. — A good anchorage is in 6 fathoms, with the west end of Pearl islaid bearing N.W., distant about onn-quartor of a mile, and the north part of Henry island just open of if. If working in, remember that a shoal of 15 feet lies 1| cables north wsird from Bare islet, and that fair a!ichorage may be had in 9 fathoms oft' the entianco ; but a vessel should get in far enough to be out of the tides of Spicden channel. Small vessels leaving Roche harbour, and bound seuthwai'd, may take the Mosquito passage. Tides. — I'he time of high water at full and change in Roche harbour is irregular ; springs rise 12 feet. WALDRON ISLAND lies in the northern entrance of the Middle channel, but as its anchorages are frequently available for vessels passing to or from Haro strait, it seems desirable that it should be described while treating of that neighbourhood. The island is thickly wooded, moderately high, and clKfy on its southern and eastern sides, but falling to the northward, where it terminates in low sandy points. Disney point, its southern extreme, is a remarkable high stratified bluff". Cowlitz bay, on the western side of Waldron, between Disney and Sandy points, affords good anchorage with nil winds, the depth of water from 5 to 8 fathoms, and the holding ground stiff mud ; it may be sometimes more desirable for sailing vessels to anchor here than to work 2 or 3 miles up into Plumper sound, particularly for those coming up Middle channel. If entering from the northward or westv/ard, Sandy point may be passed at a distance of one-third of a mile, and standing into the bay anchor oq the line between it and Disney point in 5 or G fathoms ; the latter point bearing S.E. by E., and the centre of White rock S. ^ W. If a south- easter is blowing, a vessel may stand far enough in to get smooth water under shelter of Disney point ; no sea, however, to affect a vessel's safety gets up in this bay with any wind. The only danger in the bay is Mouatt reef, with a depth of only 3 feet on it ; it lies half a mile N.W. ^ N. from Disney point with deep water between it and the shore. If entering from the southward, Disney point shoidil be kept at within less than half a mile, particularly on the ebb, for as soon as Douglas CHAP. I.] WALDRON ISLAND. 63 channel (tho continuation c^ Middle channel) is opened out, through which the tide sets sometimes at the rate of 5 knots, a vessel is apt to be set down on Danger rock. White rock, fronting Cowlitz bay, is 35 feet above high water, and bare, it has a sunken reef extending 2 cables' lengths to the north-west from it. Danger rock.— This dangerous reef, with a depth of only 5 feet on it, and on which the kelp is rarely seen, lies one-third of a mile S.E. by E. ^ E., from White rock. Caution.— It is particularly recommended to give these rocks a wide berth, as with the strong tides, the water is too deep for anchorage in case of getting entangled among them in light winds. NORTH BAY on the north-west side of the island, affords anchor- age in 8 to 10 fathoms water about one quarter of a mile off shore, but is not by any means such a desirable place as Cowlitz bay, tho bank being rather steep, and the tide more felt. 64 CHAPTER II. THE "WESTEHN CHANNELS AND ISLANDS TO GABEIOLA PASS. Variation 23° 5' to 23° 15' East, in 1888. The WESTERN CHANNELS of HARO STRAIT* may be used with advantage by steamers or coasters bound fi'om the southern ports of Vancouver isUmd to the strait of Georgia, or to the districts of Saanich, Cowitchin, Nanaimo, and the numerous intermediate harbours ; their advantages over the Haro strait consist in tlie strength of tide l)eing less, besides sheltered anchorage being obtainable in almost all parts ; while in the latter strait the depth of water is so great that it is impossible to anchor, and sailing vessels may frequently be set back into Fuca strait, thus entailing great delay as well as risk. On the other hand, the western channels are not free from danger, yet, with the assistance of the chart, and a good look-out from aloft for kelp, a precaution which should never be neglected, they may be navigated during daylight with ease and safety. To vessels passing from the southward, and intending to take the western channels, the dangers to be avoided after passing Discovery and Chatham islands, are Johnstone reef (page 52), lying nearly one mile from the shore, midway between Cadboro point and Gordon head. Zero rock (page 50), which lies in the fairway ; and the shoals which extend ofFDarcy, Sidney, and James islands. SIDNEY CHANNEL between James and Sidney islands is the best ; it is ■ j,rly one mile wide, with depths of from 14 to 20 fathoms, until near its northern end, where shoal patches with only 6 to 9 feet water on them, marked by kelp, lie 3 to 5 cables' lengths off the western point of Sidney island. Whale islet, a small rock only 6 feet above high water, lies at the southern entrance to Sidney channel, and is joined to ♦ See Admiralty chart : — Ilaro iiudRosnrio straits, No. 2,689 s scale, m - O'S inches ; also Admiralty chart: — Haro strait aud Middle chamiel, No. 2,840; scale, m = l*0 inch. OHAP. II.] SIDNEY AND CORDOVA CHANNELS. 65 Sidney island by a sand spit. Sidney spit, the north-west end of the island, is a low sandy tongue wit'' a few trees on its extreme. There is good anchorage off this spit in 8 fathoms water. Boa.COIl. — A beacon consisting of a cone 40 feet high, surmounted by a pole-and cage 10 feet high, the whole coloured white, has been erected on Sidney spit. CORDOVA CHANNEL between James island and the main island of Vancouver, is a fair passage with little tide ; it is not, however, to be preferred to Sidney channel, neither is any saving in distance gained by taking it, and it cannot be recommended for vessels drawing over 14 feet, as the navigable channel at its southern entrance between the banks extending off from the sfouth-west bluff of James island, and the main island shore, is only 3 cables wide, and has a sand bank over one cable in extent, with 15 feet water on it lying in the centre of the pa: age. A little northward from Cowitchin head a low flat of swampy land extends for two miles in a N.N.W. direction, and about one-quarter to half a mile off the high land ; shoal water extends from one to 2 cables' lengths outside this flat which forms the western side of the southern entrance of the channel. The southern face of James island is a moderately high and steep white clay cliff', its summit covered witlx trees ; towards the eastern part of this cliff are two remarkable notches on its summit. A bank, having from one to 3 fathoms water on it, extends one mile to the eastward, and nearly half a mile to the southward, and westward from the south-west bluff of James island. A shoal three-quarters of a mile in extent, having depths of from 1^ to 3 fathoms on it, lies south-eastward from the island, the centre of it bears S.E. by E. ^ E., distant 1^ miles from south-west bluff James island. DIRECTIONS. — If the passage inside Discovery and Chatham islands has been taken, and intending to take the Sidney channel ; when abreast Ciulboro point, steer N.N.W., keeping the passage between that point and Chatham islands open astern, until mount Tuam (on the southern point of Admiral island) is in line over the centre between the two remarkable notches on James island bearing N.W. by W.,* this mark will lead nearly one mile eastward from Zero rock, 3 cables westward from the 3 fathom patches off Darcy island, and between them and the shoal of 9 feet extending south-eastward from James island. When Morse island is in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing N.E. J N., alter course to N.N.W., to avoid the shoal which * See View D, on Actmiralty chart : — Haro strait and Middle channel, Nc. 2,840 ; scale, m — 1*0 inch. A 17498. 'B 06 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABEIOLA PASS, [ciiaimi. extends one mile E. by N. ^ N., from south-west bluff of James island ; pass about 3 cables' lengths westward from Whale islet, and then steer up mid-channel, and avoid the shoal patches off the west end of Siduey island, by not shutting Whale islet in Avith Darcy island, until the end of Sidney spit bears North. If passing outside Discovery and Chatham islands, at about one mile off shore, steer N.W. ^ N., until the leading marks (mount Tua.n in line between the two remarkable notches on James island, bearing N.W. by W.) are on, when proceed as before directed. MINERS CHANNEL.— Low and Bare islands are two small islands lying off the eastern side of Sidney island, and between them and the latter there is a good passage, half a mile in breadth, with 8 fathoms the least water ; a 3 fathom patch one cable in extent lies 2^ cables N. by E., from the east point of Sidney island, the southern entrance of the channel. This channel may often prove convenient for vessels having passed up Haro strait eastward of the Kelp reefs, and desiring to take the inner channels to Saanich, Cowitchin, or through Stuart channel. AncllOl age. — The eastern side of Sidney island affords good anchor- age in 8 fathoms water out of the tide, off a bay S.S.W. from the north end of Bare island ; the bay is shoal as far out as a line between its entrance points. Reef. — Midway between Low and Bare islands, and on the line, between their north-west points, is a reef which uncovers ; and a rock which nearly uncovers lies 4 cables N. ^ W., from [the north-west end of Low island. There is a rock 3 feet above high water bearing W. by N. ^ N., distant one-third of a mile from the north-west end of Bare island. After passing Bare island a course should be steered between Sidney s[)it and Jones island. Having passed to the northward of Sidney island, either by Cordova, Siduey, or Miners channels, the Shute or Moresby passages may be taken as convenient ; if bound for Saanich, Cowitchin, or through Stuart channel, the former is preferable, while the latter offers a more direct course through the Swanson or Trincomalie channels, or to Fraser river by Active pass. SHUTE PASSAGE. — To enter this passage, after leaving Sidney spit, pass bet veen Jones island and the Little group, then eastward of Coal island, Kuapp and Pym islands, and between Piers and Portland islands, when the Satellite channel will be entered, which leads directly to Saanich, Cowitchin, and the western ports of Vancouver island. This is a good clear channel, and with the assistance of the chart may be used with much facility. CHAP. II.] MINERS CHANNEL. — SHUTE PASSAGE. 67 Joues isla>nd lies two-thirds of a mile north from Sidney spit, with fi cloar passage between, of from 15 t) 20 fathoms water; shoal rocky ground extends one cable's length westwrard from the north-west point of Jones island, and the tides set with considerable strength (2 to 5 knots) round this point ; detached rocks extend two cables' lengths, eastward from the east end of the island. Tree, Hill, Domville, Comet, and Gooch islands, which lie i n the fairway between Sidney and Moresby islands, are moderately low, and ivcoded, but the passages between them are not recommended unless to those well acquainted with the navigation of this locality. Reefs. — North Cod reef is about 2 cables' lengths in extent, and covers at one-quarter flood, it lies 4 cables S. ^ E., from the west end of Gooch island. South Cod reef, also about 2 cables in extent, has only 6 feet on it at low water, it lies 7 cables S. ^ E., from the west end of Gooch island, and 9 cables E. ^ N., from the south-east end of Jones island j both reefs are mftrked by kelp. A patch of two fathoms, marked by kelp, lies nearly midway between the southern end of Jones and Domville islands ; the 'passage between Gooch and Comet islands is filled with kelp. The Little group lie two-thirds of a mile W. by N. from Jones island. They consist of four rocky islets, one-third of a mile in extent east and west, bare of trees, and connected by reefs ; there is a good passage of 12 fathoms water between them and Jones island, and their eastern side may be passed at one cable's length. Bird islet, lying on the eastern side of Shute passage, and two-thirds of a mile N.N.W. from the north point of Jones island, is about 6 feet above high water, and has a cluster of reefs around it almost one cable's length in extent, marked by kelp ; between it and Coal island there is a clear passage one mile wide, with from 20 to 30 fathoms water. Coal island, which helps to form the western side of Shute passage, lie., v-.^se off the north-east extreme of the Saanich peninsula, and imme- diately at the entrance of Shoal harbour i it is one mile in extent and thickly Avoodcd, and its eastern and northern shores are free from danger. When working up the passage between Bird islet and Coal island, a vessel sho/dd not stand to the westward of a line joining the east end of Little group to the east point of Coal island, as a rock which covers at one- quarter flood lies 4 cables W.N.W. fr -n the east end of the group, and nearly two-thirds of a mile S.S.E. from the east point of the island. Reefs. — A small patch with 4 fathoms water over it, and probably less, and marked by kelp, lies one mile N.E. from the east point of Coal island, morv) than three- luarters of a mile N.N.W. ^ W. from Bird islet, E 2 68 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABIIIOLA PASS. [chap. ir. and oue-tliiid of a mile S.AV. from Yellow islet. When abreast the east point of Coal island, and distant one-third of a mile, a W.N.W. course will lead through Shute passage in mid-channel, passing eastward of Pym island,* off the eastern side of which, a reef which uncovers, extends a little more than one cable's length. Colia reef which lies between Pym and Portland islands, must also be avoided. The least water found on it is 8 feet ; it is marked by kelp, and lies two-thirds of a mile North from the north point of Pym island. Yellow island kept just open to the eastward of Sentinel island, bearing E. ^ S., leads more than one cable to the southward of Celia reef; and Beaver point (Admiral island), in line with Steep bluff (Portland island), bearing N. ^ W., clears it to the westward. Knapp and. Pjrm islands are small and wooded, lying between Piers and Coal islands. The passage between Piers and Portland islands is over one mile in breadth, with depths of from 10 to 20 fathoms, and no dangers which are not visible ; about one cable's length off ^he eastern side of Piers island, is a rock always uiicovered. Having passed west- ward between these islands a vessel is fairly in Satellite channel. MORESBY PASSAGE.— After leaving the northern end of Sidney island, the directions for Morcpby passage are the same as those •already given for Shute passage, until abreast the east point of Coal island. From about one-third of a mile off this point, the direct course through the passage is N. ^ W., (Canoe rock beacon same bearing) for 2 J miles, or, until Beaver point is in line with the easternmost channel islet in Ganges harbour, bearing N.W. | N., this mark will lead midway between Turnbull reef, and the Canoe rocks, which extend ofE Portland, and Moresby islands, narrowing the channel at its northern entrance to little over one-third of a mile. The Sisters, off the eastern point of Portland island, are three rod:/ islets, which extend to a distance of nearly 2 cables. They are about 25 feet high, have a few stunted cedar trees on their summits, are joined by reefs, anr^ will be immediately recognized either from the northward or southward. Turnbull reef. — Eastward from the Sisters, at a distance of more than one-third of a mile, extends the Turnbull reef in a semicircular direction towards the north-west point of Portland island, and almost joining it ; 2 fathoms is the least water found on its outer edge, and it is marked by a heavy bank of kelp, which, however (on account of the tide), is not always visible until close to it. * As patches of kelp have leen seen extending some distance from the south side of Pym island, caution mus', be observed when i)as<'ing between that island and Coal island. CHAP. II.] MORESBr AND PREVOST PASSAGES. 69 Canoe rocks, «■ dangerous ledge extending nearly half a mile \V. \ N., from Reef point, the north-west point of Moresby island ; the outer rock of this ledge covers a little after half flood, and is not marked by kelp, though kelp grows between the point and the rock. Beacon. — A stone beacon 25 feet high, surmounted by a cross and coloured black, is erected on the Canoe rocks. Directions. — With the beacon on Canoe rocks visible, the passage is very easy, as the above dangers may be passed as close as convenient, and there are 11 fatlioms Avatcr in mid-channel ; but if the beacon is not visible, which may sometimes happen, then it is desirable when coming from the southward to borrow on the Moresby island shore, passing Seymour jioint, the western cliffy point of the island, at the distance of 2 cables. Leading Mark. — Beaver point (the south-east point of Admiral island), in line with the easternmost Channel islet in Ganges harbour, bearing N.W. -^N., leads midway between TurnbuU reef and Canoe rocks; and a vessel will be to northward of these shoals when Chads island, just off the north-west point of Portland island, is seen just open of that point. PREVOST PASSAGE lies between Moresby island and the group of smaller islands to the southward of it, and leads by the Shute or Moresby passages into Satellite channel. To a vessel passing up the main stream of Huro strait and bound for the Swanson channel, the easiest and most direct route is between Stuart and Moresby islarJs ; but circumstances of wind or tide may render it con- venient to take the Prevost passage ; for instance, with light winds she may be set into the passage by the flood, or, if near to Moresby island, by the ebb tide from the upper part of Haro strait, which runs here as it does in all other parts of the channel, from 2^ to 3 hours after low water by the shore, sets to the westward among the small islands, and down the Miners and Sidney channels. /^rachne reef. — The dangers to be avoided in Prevost passage are Arachne and Cooper reefs. Arachnc reef lies nearly in the centre of the passage, in a dii'ect line between Fairfax point (the south-east point of Moresby island) and Tom point (the east point of Gooch island) ; and 2\ miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Turn point of Stuart island. This reef covers at one-quarter flood, and has a good deal of kelp on its north-west edge, which, however, is frequently run under by the tide. Cooper reef, lying half "■ ™ile N.W. by N. from Tom point (Gooch island), is marked by kelp, and uncovers at half ebb ; there is a passage one mile wide betwe i it and Arachne reef, the channel being about the same 70 WESTEBN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii. width between the latter and Moresby island, with deep water. There are no dangers off the south or west sides of Moresby island. '•• •'■ Tom point, in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing S.S.E. ^ E., leads only just clear to the eastward of Cooper I'eef. North part of Portland island, in line with south side of Moresby island, bearing W. by N. | N., leads to the northward of Cooper and Arachne reef's. Yellow islet, a small bare islet 8 feet high, lies 1^ miles S.W. by W. from Fairfax point, and should be passed on the north side to clear the shoal of 3 fathoms which extends nearly 2 cables' lengths westward from the islet, and to avoid the small patch of 4 fathoms* marked with kelp, (see page 67) lying one-third of a mile S.W. from it ; having passed west- ward of this island either the Shute or Moresby passages may be taken as convenient. SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral island on the north ; and Moresby, Portland, and Piers islands, and the northern shore of Snanich peninsula on the south. It leads to Saanicli inlet, Cowitchiu harbour, and by the Sansum narrows to Stuart channel. It is a good, deep passage with but few dangers, which are not always visible ; among these are Shute reef and Patey rock. The general breadth of the channel is one mile, with depths, of frt ra 30 to 40 fathoms, and the strength of tide from one to 2 knots, and sometimes 3 knots. SllUte reef is a ledge less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks, one of which is covered at 8 feet flood, its vicinity being marked by kelp. It lies two-thii'ds of a mile W.S.W., from Harry point, the north point of Piers island, and nearly 3 cables N. by E. ^ E,, from Arbutus, a small islet with two or three of the red stemmed arbutus growing on it, and lying half a mile westward from Piers island. . Patey rock, at the western end of Satellite channel, is a single rock, covered at 6 feet rise with kelp around it, and is in the way of vessels working into Saanich inlet or Cowitchin harbour. It lies two-thirds of a mile N.E. by N., from Hatch point, the westernmost point of Saanich inlet ; nearly 2 miles N.W. by W. ^ W., from Coal point, a remarkable nob point, the south extreme of Deep cove ; and 3J miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Arbutus islet. •; - * ; ,. '?v<:^4v ;J,*h'k^. Clearing marks. — Harry point the north extreme of Piers island, open northward of Arbutus islet, bearing N.E. by E., leads 3 cables south- ward of Patey rock ; and the high round summit of Moresby island, well open northward of Arbutus islet, bearing E.N.E., leads 3 ^ cables to the northward of it. Possibly shoalcr. CHAP rx.] SATELLITE CHANNEL. — SAANICH INLET. n Cecil rock, with 2 ftvthoms water on it, lies one-third of a mile S.E. by E. f E. from the south point of Russell island at the entrance of Fulford harbour, and must be avoided when working up Satellite channel. BoatSWa/iH bEnk, on the western side of the channel, off the Vancouver shore, between Cherry and Hatch points, affords good anchorngo in from 4 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom ; the outer edge of the bank in 10 fathoms is steep-to, it extends three-quarters of a mile E. by N., from Cherry point, and then trends in a S.S.E. direction, over three-quarters of a mile ; from 1^ to 3 cables' lengths inside the 10 fathom line, the water shoals rapidly from 6 to 3 fathoms, the latter depth being found 4 cables' lengths from the shore. A good berth in 7 fathoms water, will be foumd, with cape Keppel bearing N.E. by E. J E., and Hatch point bearing S.E. by S. SAANICH INLET is a deep indentation extending in a nearly S.S.E. direction for 14 miles, and carrying deep water to its head, which terminates in a narrow creek within 4 miles of Esquimalt harbour. The inlet forms the south-east portion of Vancouver island into a peninsula of about 20 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and varying in breadth from 8 miles at its southern part, to 3 at its northern. On the southern coast of this peninsula are the harbours of Esquimalt and Victoria, in the neigbourhood of which for some 5 miles the country is pretty thickly wooded, its prevailing features being lake and mountain, with, however, some considerable tracts of clear and fertile land ; the northern portion for about 10 miles contains some of the best agricultural land in Vancouver island, the shore is fringed with pine forests, but in the centre it is clear prairie or oak land, and much of it is under cultivation ; seams of coal have also been found. ^ , , Off the eastern or peninsula side of the inlet there are some good anchorages, the centre being for the most part deep. Immediately south- ward from James point (the north-western point of the peninsula), is Deep cove, but no convenient anchorage. Norris rock, awash at half tide, lies 2 cables S.W. by S. from James point, with 12 fathoms water between it and the point. Vessels rounding this point should give it a berth of half a mile. Union bay, at 2 miles southward from James point affords good anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms water, half a mile from the beach ; a shoal bank extends off 2 to 3 cables' lengths from the shore around the bay. There is a stream of fresh water in the south-east corner of the bay. Cole bay, li miles southward from Union bay, and immediately under mount Newton is small, but capable of affording shelter to a few 72 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii. vessels of moderate size ; off its north point ftre the White rocks, two small bare islets. Anchor in the centre of the bay in 8 fathoms, with White rocks bearing W.S.W. These bays are somewhat open to S.W. winds, but a gale rarely blows from this quarter, nor from the proximity of the opposite shore, distant scarcely 3 miles, could much sea get up. Tod creek is 2 miles southward from Cole bay. Scnanus island, a small wooded islet, 150 feet high, lies off its entrance, foul ground extends nearly one cable's length off the north-west side of the island, on the other sides the Avater is deep. A small islet, and a rock lying one cable's length north from it, lies in the entrance to the south-east part of the creek. A short distance inside it narrows rapidly and winds to the southward and south- east for three-quarters of a mile, with a breadth of less than one cable, carrying 6 fathoms nearly to its head. There is anchorage in the outer part of the creek in 15 fathoms. Squally reach. — From Willis point, the western point of Tod creek, tbe inlet known as Squally reach trends to the south-west for 2^ miles, the breadth of the arm here being throe-quartrrs of a mile, with no bottom at 100 fathoms. Finlayson arm, its continuation, trends S. by E. ^ E. for 3 miles, and terminates Sar.:iich inlet. Beacon rock, which covers at three-quarters flood, lies one cable, S.W. ^ S., from Elbow point, Fin- layson arm. A small islet named Dinner, with deep water on cither side, lies near the head of this arm, 1^ cables southward from which there is good anchorage in 9 fathoms. At 3 cables south from the islet, the arm terminates in a flat, which dries at low water. Immediately over the head of the inlet, on the eastern side. Leading peak rises to an elevati;»n of 1,346 feet. Mill creek bay is a fair anciiorage, and the only one on the western side of Saanich inlet ; a bank of sand and rock which has only from one to 3 fathoms water on it, extends two cables' lengths off, from the western shore, across the bay ; a large stream flows into the north- west corner of the bay.* . '■ COWITCHIN HARBOUR is 4 miles westward from cape Keppel, the southern extreme of Admiral island; Separation point (the western point of entrance to Sansum narrows), its northern entrance point, is somewhat remarkable, being the tei-mination of a high, stony ridge, dropping suddenly, and running off as a low sharp point to the southward. Cowitchin harbour extends to the westward from this point for 2 miles, and the general depth of water in it is 30 fathoms, which shoals suddenly ♦ A rock, with iily 6 to 9 feet water on it, lies almogt in the centre of the bay, a short distance outside the 3 fathom line, nearly 4 cables S.S.W. ^ W. from Ford point. Mr. John Devereux. CHAP. 11.] COWITCIIIN HARBOUR. — SANSUM NARROWS. 73 ns the flat is approached, which dries off for more than half a mile from the head of the liarbonr. But for the large tract of good land contained in the valley of Cowitchin, the port would scarcely bo deserving of notice, and it is more of a bay than a harbour. In its north-west end is a considerable river, the Quamitchan, which flows througli the fertile valley, and is navigalile for small boats or canoes for several miles. There is a settlement here, off which is a long pier (on the south side of the harbour). Coming from the south-eastward the entrance is easily distinguished by the pier and lumber yard, just inside the point on the west aide. Mail steamers call here twice a week. AnchoragG. — Snug creek. — The only convenient anchorage to be obtained is in Snug creek, on the north side of Cowitchin harbour, or oif the outer village on the south side, 1| miles within the entrance ; in the latter case a vessel must approach the shore within little more than one cable's length, and anchor cautioui^ly, when 12 fathoms are obtained. Snug creek is a convenient nncliorage for small craft or coasters, and one or two vessels of moderate size might obtain anchorage and shelter in it ; it extends in a northerly direction for nearly one mile, and is one-quarter of a mile in breadth. Nearly in the middle of the entrance is a rock which uncovers at low water in the centre of the kelp ; it is about 20 feet in extent, and has 1^ fathoms water around it. The western point of entrance can be passed close as it is bold, and has 10 fathoms water within half a cable of it ; when one quarter of a mile or less, inside the point, anchor in the centre of the creek in 6 fathoms. SANSUM NARROWS take a general northerly direction between Vancouver and Admiral islands for a distance of 6 miles, when they lead into Stuart channel ; the average breadth of this strait is about half a mile> but at their narrowesi part abreast Bold bluff", on the Admiral island shore, 2^ miles above Separation point, they are contracted to one-third of a mile. The high land on both sides renders the wind generally very unsteady ; from this cause as well as from the somewhat confined nature of the channel, and the depth of water which prevents anchoring, the Narrows cannot be recommended except for steamers or coasting vessels. There are but few dangers to be avoided, and the strength of the tides has seldom been found to exceed 3 knots, generally much less. In the lower part of the Narrows southward from Bold bluff, the depth of water varies from 20 to 30 fathoms ; to the northward of this point it increases immediately to 70 and 90 fathoms. Maple bay, on the Vancouver shore near the northern entrance, affords fair anchorage. Entering Sansum narrows from the southward a kelp patch, with 9 feet water on it, on the Admiral island shore must be avoided. It lies 2 cables 74 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap, ii, S.S.W. from n smull islet close to the coast, nearly one mile E. by N. from Separation point, and nearly half a mile S.E. ^ S. from Entrance point ; there are 20 fathoms between it and the small islet. Another rocky patch extends nearly one cable's length off shore from the eastern side of the Narrows ; it lies G cables N.W. ^ W. from Entrance point. . Burial islet, a small spot used as an Indian burying-place, lies on the eastern side of the Narrows, 1^ miles above Separation point ; pass outaide it as close as convenient to the kelp. Bold bluflf, a smooth headland of bare rock, is steep-to ; the channel here is scarcely one-third of a mile across. Rocky ground marked by kelp extends one cable's length off Kelp point on the western side, almost opposite to Bold bluff; northward from these points the Narrows increase in breadth to nearly one mile. Burgoyne bay, the entrance to which is half a mile eastward from Bold bluff, is a narrow and rather deep indentation terminating in a sandy head ; there is no bottom in the bay under 30 fathoms, until within 2 cables' lengths of its head, when the water shoals suddenly from 10 to 4 fathoms. Anchorage may be had if necessary. MAPLE BAY.* — From Grave point the Nan-ows take a north- westerly direction, and at a distance of a little more than one mile on the Vancouver island shore is Maple bay. Boulder, the southern entrance point, is remarkable from a large boulder stone standing at its low water extreme. Although an inviting looking bay, the water is too deep for comfortable anchorage, being generally 40 fathoms, and 16 fathoms within one cable's length of a smooth sandy beach at its western end. Bird'S-eyO cove, which takes a southerly direction for nearly one milo from Boulder point, affords fair anchorage at its entrance in about the centre of the cove, in 13 fathoms, mud bottom, with the boulder bearing N.E. ^ N. ; the cove at tliis part is not more than one-third of a mile across ; 2 cables' lengths southward from this anchorage, shoal water, 2 to 3 fathoms, extends three-quarters of a cable from each side of the cove, which is here only 2\ cables wide ; coasters may go up mid-channel into 4 or 6 fathoms near the head. 5,,i . t , • , ^ . - Tides. — The rise at springs in Maple bay is 12 feet. ■■'' ■ STUART CHANNEL.t—Sansum narrows extend IJ miles north- ward from Maple bay, when they lead into Stuart channel, the western- most of the ship passages which lie on the eastern side of Vancouver island. * See Admiralty plan of Maple bay on chart No. 714 ; scale, m = 3 inches. '-^ f See Admiralty chart :— Strait of Georgia, sheet 1, No. 579; scale, ?« = 0-& inches. oitAP. n.] STUART CHANNEL. — OSBORN BAY. 75 The wcstcn, side of Stuart channel is formed by the shorea of ihiit ishiiid ; its caHtern, by lie couats of Admiral, Iviiper, and Thetis islundH; it extcmls in a general N.W. direction for nearly 20 miles, when it joins the DcM narrows below Nanaimo. The general breadth of the chaiinel is about 2 miles; the depth varies in the southern part from 60 to 100 fathoms, in some parts more, in the northern portion from 20 to 40 fathoms ; the prin- cipal dangers are the North and Escape reefs, White rock, and Danger reef. On the western or Vancouver island shore there are some good harbours, viz., Osborn bay. Horse-shoe bay. Oyster harbour, and Chemainoa bay ; on the eastern side there are also some anchorages. Telegraph and Prccdy harbours on the western, and Clam bay on the eastern side of Thetis and Kuper islands. OSBORN BAY,* the southernmost anchorage on the western side of Stuart channel, may be known by the Shoal islands, a low wool W 80 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii. S.E. ^ S. ; or 2 cables' lengths farther in, in S^athoms, with the north- west point of Hudson island bearing S. W. by \V., and Active point bearing S.S.E. ^ E. Above this, the harbour contracts to a narrow creek extending one mile to the N.W., where coasters may find anchorage in 2 and 3 fathoms : the continuation of this creek easterly separates Kuper from Thetis island, which at low water are connected. PREEDY HARBOUR is separated from the one just described by a group of small islands and reefs ; its entrance is to the northward of them between Scott island and Crescent point of Thetis isiand, and is one- third of a mile in breadth. When entering, the Thetis island shore should be kept aboard to avoid False reef, a patch which coders at half tide, lying 3i cables W. by .N. ^ N, from the west end of Scott island, and half a mile S.W. ^ S. from Crescent point. Shoal water extends for 1^ cables off the northern sides of Scott and Dayman islands. AncllOragO will be found in 7 fathoms, with Crescent point bearing W.N.W., distant nearly half a mile, and east point of Dayman island bearing S. by W. SWANSON CHANNEL leads from the Ilaro strait to the north- westward between Admiral island on the west and Pender island on the east ; passing eastward of Prevost island it enters the Active pass between Galiano and Mayne islands, and thence into the strait of Georgia ; northward of Active pass it connects with Trincomalie channel. ADMIRAL ISLAND, separating Stuart from Trincomalie and Swanson channels, is of considerable extent, being nearly 15 miles in length N.W. and S.E., and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its northern end to 6 at its southern. It has two good ports, Fulford harbour on its south-east, and Ganges harbour on its eastern side. The southern portion of the island is a peninsula formed by the indentations of Fulford harbour and Burgoyne bay (a valley separating the heads of these ports), composed of a lofty ridge of mountains over 2,000 feet in height, rising abruptly from all sides ; the summit, mount Bruce, being 2,329 feet high. Immediately northward of the valley, and over Burgoyne bay on its western side, mount Baynes rises to an elevation of 1,953 feet, and is very t-emarkable, its southern face being a perpendicular precipice visible a long distance from the southward or eastward. The Otter range of somewhat less elevation rises northward of mount Baynes, from whence the island slopes away in a wedge shape, its northern termination, Southey point, being a sharp extreme. The island is for the most part thickly wooded, but there is a considemble extent of partially clear land both in the valley at the head of Fulford harbour and at the northern end of the CHAP. II.] ADMIRAL ISLAND. 81 inland, which has become peopled by settlers under the name of Salt Spriug district, from the fact of several salt springs having been discovered. PULPORD HARBOUR penetrates the south-east side of Admiral island in a W.N.W. direction for 2^ miles. At its entrance, is Russell island, between which and Isabella point, the western point of the harbour, is the best pas.sage in. Mount Baynes appears very remarkable from the harbour, rising immediately over its head almost as a perpendicular cliff. Immediately over the north side of the harbour is Reginald hill, a stony elevation between 700 and 800 feet high. CdCil rock with 2 fathoms water on it lies one-third of a mile S.E. by E. J E. from the south-west point of Russell island. The southern entrance is two-thirds of a mile wide with a depth of 20 fathoms until abreast North rock; here the harbour naiTows, and canies a general breadth almost to its head of a little less than half a mile; the depths decreasing to 13 and 10 fathoms and at &^ cables from the head to 5 fathoms when the water shoals rapidly on the edge of the bank which extends about 3 cables from the shore at the head of the harbour. North rock is a small rocky islet lying close ofiE the north point of the harbour ; a rock, which covers at one-quarter flood, lies 2 cables' lengths west from it, and more than 1 ^ cables from the shore, so that strangers entering should keep to the southward of mid-channel until past it. The northern passage into the harbour, between Russell island and Eleanor point, though in places not more than one-quarter of a mile in breadth, is a safe channel of from 14 to 18 fathoms water. Louisa rock, with only one fathom water on it, is the only danger ; it lies 2 cables from the northern or Admiral island shore, with the west end of Russell island bearing S.E. ^ S. distant 4 cables, and North rock W.S.W. the same distance ; with a leading wind the Russell island shore should be kept rather aboard. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage in 10 fathoms in tho centre of the harbour with Reginald hill bearing E.N.E. ; at the head of the harboui* Is a considerable fresh-water stream, from which shoal water extends for 3 cables' lengths. GANGES HARBOUR 's a safe and commodious port for vessels of any description or size, and has two entrances. Its southern entrance, which is in the Swanson channel, lies between Admiral and Prevost islands, and has no dangers which are not visible ; the northern entrance is by Captain passage. When entering from the southward, the Channel islets A 17498. F 82 WESTERN CHANNELS, &0. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [ciup. n. may be passed on either side, but by far the widest passage is to the northward of them ; they are two small wooded islands, 1^ miles within Beaver point, and 2 cables from the shore of Admiral 'sland. Liddell point, the south-east extreme of Prevost island, and the northern entrance point of the harbour, has a reef which is covered at half flood extending 2 cables* lengths eastward from it. The Acland islands, two in number, lie to the westward of Liddell point along the shore of Prevost island, between which and them there is no ship channel. Directions. — The fair channel into the harbour, between the Channel and Acland islands, is nearly half a mile wide, the depth being 30 fathoms ; having passed these islands the harbour is nearly 1^ miles wide, and the general depth for 2 miles, is from 20 to 13 fathoms. There are but few dangers in working into the harbour, and they are easily avoided. A rocky patch with one fathom water on it lies 2| cables W. I N. from the west point of the westernmost Acland island, and the same distance off shore. There is another one-fathom patch which is more in the track of vessels ; it lies nearly 2 miles W. by N. | N. from .^e southernmost Channel islet, nearly 1 1 miles S. by E. ^ E. from Nose point (Captain passage), and is half a mile from the southern or Admiral island side of the harbour ; there is a clear passage 3 cables wide, the depth being 14 fathoms, southward of the patch ; to the northward of it the passage is three-quarters of a mile wide, with depths of from 13 to 21 fathoms. The Chain islands are a group of 6 or 7 low narrow islets con- nected by reefs, extending from the head of the harbour in an E.S.E. direc- tion for 1^ miles. To the southward of these islands the ground is clear, but to the northward of them are scattered reefs, and vessels are not recommended to anchor on that side above the outermost island. Anchorage. — A vessel may anchor as soon as a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms is found ; a good berth is in 11 fathoms water with Peile point, and the two entrance points of Long] harbour nearly in line bearing N.E. by N., and the easternmost Chain island W.N.W. If desirable, anchorage may be had in 6 fathoms mud, midway between the Chain islands and the south shore, the easternmost island bearing E.N.E., or in a' still snugger berth one mile above, off the sandy spit on Admiral island, in 4 or 5 fathoms. This latter berth is recommended for vessels of moderate size intending to make any stay. CAPTAIN PASSAGE also leads into Ganges harbour, to the northward of Prevost island. It is a clear deep passage, one-third of a mile wide, with depths of from 30 to 40 fathoms ; and vessels from the CHAP. II.] CAPTAIN PASSAGE. — PREVOST ISLAND. 83 northward intending to enter the harbour should always use it. There is only one danger, which is well inside Ganges harbour, and which is almost equally in the track of vessels working up ^y the southern passage ; it is a small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3^ cables S.W. by W. from the western entrance point of Long harbour. Entering by Captain passage, Peilc point should not be shut in by the entrance points of Long harbour tintil the opening between Prevost and Acland islands is shut in, when this reef will be well cleared. When working up by the southern channel, a vessel should not stand so far to the eastward, when in the neighbourhood of this patch, as to open out the passage between Acland and Prevost islands. LONG HARBOUR may he almost considered as part of Ganges harbour. It is a long, narrow creek, its general breadtlx being 2 to 3 cables, and it lies to the eastward of Ganges harbour and runs parallel to it for 2^ miles. Its entrance is between two sloping, rocky points, similar to each other, on the west side of Captain passage. At one-quarter of a mile inside the entrance is a high, bare islet, which must be passed on its south side ; and at one mile inside the entrance there is also another and somewhat similar island, which may be passed on either side. Outside these^ islets the depth is from 14 to 16 fathoms; above them, 4 and 5 fathoms. At the head of the creek is a snug place for a ship lo repair, &c., but as a harbour, it is only adapted to steamers or coasters, and, with the good and easy anchorage of Ganges harbour so close, there would appear to be no reason to recommend this contracted and inconvenient one. PREVOST ISLAND, lying in the centre of Swanson channel, is moderately high, thickly wooded, and of an irregular shape. It is 3 miles long, in a N.W. andS.E. direction, l^ miles in breadth, and on its southern and westtm sides it is indented liy several bays and creeks ; its northern side is almost a straight cliffy shore. Ellen bay, on the south-east side of Prevost island, between Liddell and Red islet points, is three-quarters of a mile deep, by one-third in breadth, narrowing to 2 cables, one-third of a mile from its head, and affords fair anchorage with all but south-easterly winds in 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The head of this bay is a grassy, swampy flat, only one cable wide, separating the bay from the creeks on the western shore. Annette and Glenthorne creeks, on the western or Ganges harbour side, are curious, narrow indentations extending into the island for one mile in an E. by S. direction, and only separated from each other by a narrow stony ridge. In Glenthorne, the western one, there are 3 fathoms water, the other has 1^ fathoms; they are snug places for small craft, or for a vessel to repair. r 2 84 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS, [chap.ii. JEmes bay, on the north-west side of the island, and on east side of Captain passage, affords fair, but very confined anchorage in 10 fathoms for a vPisel of moderate size, sheltered from southerly winds, but she must get well in, ns there are 18 to 2*" ^athoms water in the outer port of the bay. There are two hays northward of Ellen bay, but too small to afford any shelter. Hawkins island, a small, rocky islet with a few bushes ou it, lies close off a remarkable white shell-beach, en the north-east side of Prevoat island. Charles rocks. — From 2 to 3^ cables W. ^ N. from the nor'h-westem point of Hawkins island are the Charles rocks, three smooth-topped rocks, not marked by kelp, and uncovering towards low water. ACTIVE PASS. — From Discovery island at the southern entrance of Haro channel, to the sand heads of I'raser river, by the Active pass, is just 40 miles, and the line is almost a straight one. By adopting this route, not only the most dangerous and inconvenient part of the Haro strait is avoided, viz., its northern entrance abreast the East point of Saturna island and Patos island (where the tides are strong and apt to set a vessel down Rosario strait, or over on the eastern shore,) but a distance of nearly 10 miles is saved. / .. J' From Portlock point, the south-eastern bluff of Prevost island, the en- trance of Active pass bears N. by W. ^ W. 1| miles. Thie southern entrance point of the pass, Helen point, is low, bare, and of a yellowish colour ; over its northern side rise the high, stony hills, on the southern side of Galiano island ; the entrance itself does not become very apparent until it is approached -within one mile. Active pass takes an E.N.E. direction for 1^ miles, and then turns north for the same distance, fairly into the strait of Georgia. The average breadth of the channel is about one-third of a mile, and its general depth about 20 fathoms ; there are no hidden dangers with the exception of a small rock off Laura point, on which there is said to be a depth of only a few feet, and which should, therefore, not be closely approached* ; and at one-quarter of a mile within the southern entrance, and very close off the northern shore, a rock which uncovers at half tide ; but the great strength of the tides, together with the absence of steady winds, renders it unfit for sailing vessels, unless, * H.M.S. Termagant passing through Active pass in July 1860, ran on to Laura point, on the south side, from refusing to answer her helm in making the turn to the northward, tne tide at the time favourable, and running about 4 knots ; H.M.S. Plumper and Alert were ahead and astern of her at the time. The Termagant' » draught was 18 feet, and she sat 5 teet by the stern ; an under-current striking her heel was probably the cause. CHAP. II.] ACTIVE PASS. 85 indeed, nmall coasters ; for steamers it is an excellent channel, and a vessel of moderate size commanding a speed of 8 knots may take it at any time without fear, but it is advisable for large ships and those deeply laden to pass through at, or near slack water.* . . LIGHT. — From a square, white, wooden, light tower, situated on Oeorgina point, is exhibited at an elevation of 55 feet above high water, a Jixed white light, visible between the bearings of N.E. \ N., through south, to W. \ S., and should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 12 miles.t The lighthouse is situated in latitude 48° 52' 40" N., longitude 123° \r 50" W. . Otter bay. — if overtaken by night, or waiting for tide. Otter bay, on the west side of Pender island, is a good stopping-place ; it is one mile north from Mouatt point, and 2\ miles E.N.E. from the Channel islets in Ganges harbour ; a very fair anchorage is to be had in the centre of the bay, in 8 fathoms, and no dangers. Ellen bay in Frevost island might also be used, but the former is to bo preferred. ,, Miners bay, on the south side of Active pass, where it takes the sharp turn to the northward, affords anchorage, if necessary ; but a vessel must go close in to get 12 fathoms, and then is barely out of the whirl of the tide. Directions. — After entering Swanson channel (page 80) between Admiral and Pender islands steer to pass to the eastward of Prevost island, and keep Pelorus point (the eastern extreme of Moresby island) open of Mouatt point (the western extreme of Pender island) bearing S.E. ^ S,]: which will lead over one-third of a mile westward of Enterprise reef (two dangerous patches Avhich lie off the west side of Mayne island, see p. 56) ; and when Helen point bears N. by E., or the northern beacon comes well open west of the southern one, the reef will be cleared, and the entrance * Since the mishap to II.M.S, 7'eniia5an{, seven vessels have met with accidents in Active pass ; and no ship, especially those deeply laden, should attempt it except near - slack water. There are three separate and distinct places in the channel where large vessels will take charge against their helm in spite of all precautions, should they happen to be at those places at certain times of tide. — Mr. John Devereux, 1886. H.M.S. Triumph, when going through Active pass, with a flood tide, running at the rate of from 4 to 5 knots an hour, experienced an under current settiug in the opposite direction. It is therefore dangerous for vessels of heavy draught to attempt the passage at the full strength of the tide.— Captain H. Bose.R.N., H.M.S. Triumph, August 1886. t A bell is sounded, during thick or foggy weather, once every fifteen seconds. The fog-signal station is a wooden building, painted white, situated on the western extreme of Georgina point, and about 40 feet from the lighthouse. XSee View C on Admiralty chart: — Haro strait and Middle channel, No. 2,840; scale, m=l'0 inch. "* 86 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO OABRIOLA PASS. [ciur. n. of the pass may be steered for. There is a passage inside Enterprise reef which amy bo taken when both kelp patches can be seen. If coming out of Navy channel, between Pender and Mayne islands, a vessel should keep over for Prevost island until Pelorus point is open of Mouatt point ; these two points in line, or just touching, lead very close on Enterprise reef. On the western side of Swansou channel, the reef which lies 2 cables eastward from Liddell point must bo avoided, and lied and Bright islands, oflf the points to the northward of it, should be given a berth of one cable. When passing through Active pass to the Avestward against the flood, a vessel should keep rather on the southern shore of the pass, as the tide sets over towards a rock, which uncovers at half tide, and lies very close to the northern shore, about one-quarter of a mile within the southern entrance. When entering or passing out of the northern entrance of Active pass, the point of Gossip island, on the west, and also Georgina point (north extreme of Mayne island) on the east, should be given a good berth ; xnceed, the best directions which can be given are to pass through in mid-channel. From thence the sand heads of Eraser river bear N. by W. | W. distant 11 miles. The sand head buoys are visible from a distance of 2 or 3 miles. Tides. — The flood-tide in Active pass sets from west to east, or from the Swanson channel into the strait of Georgia; and the ebb, in the contrary direction.* The velocity during springs is sometimes 7 knots; at ordinary tides, from 3 to 5. In the northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy tide ripple, caused by a patch of 7 and 9 fathoms, and by the meeting of the tide through the pass with that in the strait ; it is recommended to pass through in mid-channel ; no favourable eddy, or less strength of tide, will be found on either side, unless inside the kelp which lines the shores. It is high water, full and change, at 4h. Om. : .. TRINCOMALIE CHANNEL commences at Active pass, from the southern entrance of which its general direction is W.N.W. for 24 miles, when it enters the Dodd narrows. ,. , Like all the inner channels already described, this one must be classed as essentially a channel for steamers or coasters ; it can only be used with advantage by vessels bound to the eastern ports of Vancouver island below Nanaimo, or by such as choose to enter Nanaimo itself by that contracted pass the Dodd narrows. ,. , The eastern side of the channel is formed by the long narrow islands of Galiano and Valdes, and the western by Admiral, Kuper, and Thetis islands, and part of the eastern shore of Vancouver, the main island ; some * The time of high water at Active pass is one hour later than that at port Townshend, Admiralty inlet. — Captain H. Rose, E.N., H.M.S. Triumph, August 1886. CHAP. II.] TRINCOMALIE CHANNEL. fi 87 smaller islands are scattered over it, and there are also several rocks which require to be known and avoided, nevertheless, with the assistance of the chart, and these directions, it is a desirable and safe channel for the class of vessels before mentioned ; the general depth of water is not incon- venient for anchorage if necessary, as it rarely exceeds 30 fathoms, and from 12 to 18 fathoms can generally be found at a convenient distance from the shore. Montague harbour on the western side of Galiano island is a good stopping place, also Clam bay on the east side of Thetis island. Trincomalie channel contracts when abreast Narrow island to less than one mile in width, but the shores are bold on both sides. On the shore of Galiano island, one mile N.E. from the south-east point of Narrow island, is Retreat cove, offering shelter for boats or anchorage for coasters ; an island lies in the centre of it. Portier and Gabriola passes, leading into the strait of Georgia, are both intricate and dangerous, unless to those perfectly acquainted with them, and the tides are so strong, and varying in their set, that they cannot be said to be applicable to the general purposes of naviga- tion, and few vessels would be justified in using them unless in cases of emergency (see pages 90, 95). MONTAGUE HARBOUR is formed between the south-west side of Galiano island and Parker island, and its entrance, between Philli- more point and the small island of Julia, is 1| miles W.N.W. from the west entrance of Active pass. The entrance is but little over one cable in breadth, but has deep water, and is free from danger ; immediately inside the points it widens out to one-quarter of a mile, and anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms in the arm which leads to the harbour. This arm runs in a N.W. ^ W. direction for nearly one mile, with an average breadth of 2 cables and a depth of from 7 to 11 fathoms, when it turns to the eastward and enters the harbour, which though small is a snug and secure anchorage, with a general depth of 6 fathoms, good holding ground ; several Indian lodges are built on the shores of the bay. There is a narrow passage to the north-westward from this harbour into the Trin- comalie channel, the least depth in which is 3 fathoms at low water. Several smaller islands extend W.N.W. from Parker island, viz.. Sphinx, Charles, Wise, and Twin islands,* the latter are two rather remarkable rocky islets about 30 feet high ; between this group and the shore of Galiano island is a passage of over half a mile in breadth with good anchorage in 10 fathoms. Atkins reef lies on the western side of Trincomalie channel, one- third of a mile from the shore of Admiral island, and in the track of vessels working up or down. It is one cable in extent, and covers at 4 feet rise ♦ Mr. John Devereux reports, that a rock which uncovers at low water spring tides, lies 2 cables W. by N. ^ N., from Twin islands. 88 WESTEEN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABEIOLA PASS. [chap. ii. of tide, its neighbourhood being marked by kelp, which, however, is rarely seen when there is any ripple on the water. The reef lies 3^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Poile point, the, north-west end of Prevost island ; 1^ miles S. ^ E. From the Twin islands ; and one mile E. by S. from the south-east end of the peninsula which forms Walker hook. There is a passage of 16 fathoms between the reef and Admiral island, and it may bo passed at one cable's length on the outside. The south-west abrupt tangent of Gallano island in line with mount Parke, a remarkable bare-topped conical hill on the south side of Active pass, bearing E. \ S., leads well outside Atkins reef.* WALKER HOOK ia formed by a peninsula or tongue of land projecting from Admiral island, 4 miles W. by N. | N. from Captain passage. On its south-east side is fair anchorage for small vessels in 6 fathoms, but a shoal patch marked by kelp, one-third of a mile in extent, lies from 2 cables to over half a mile E.N.E. from the south-east point of the peninsula ; small vessels may pass between this shoal and the point in 5 fathoms, or between it and Atkins reef, which is better, and anchor in 6 fathoms, 2 cables southward from the neck of the peninsula. There is also anchorage in 10 fathoms northward of the peninsula, but a vessel must not go within the north point of the tongue of land forming the hook as it dries a long way out. Governor rock, a dangerous rocky patch lying almost in the centre of Trincomalie channel, has 4 feet on it at low water, is about half a cable in extent, and though kelp grows on it, yet it is very difKcult to make out until quite close to. It lies 1§ miles W. J S. from Twin islands; 1^ miles N.W. by N. from the south-east point of Walker hook; and If miles S.S.W. from Quadra hill. This hill cannot be mistaken; it rises from the centre of Galiann island to the height of 750 feet, and a remarkable white basaltic cliff will be seen on the coast immediately southward of it. •f Walker rock Hes two-thirds of a mile Norf : f.om Governor rock, and covers at 4 feet rise. It lies 1§ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Twin islands ; 1| miles S.W. by S. from Quadra hill ; and two-thirds of a mile from the shore of Galiano island. A beacon of stone, 8 feet high, surmounted by a staff 18 feet high, with cross pieces at right angles, painted black on east and west sides and white on north and south, is erected on the Walker rock. Tiicse two rocks are the principal dangei's to be avoided in the southern part of Trincomalie channel; they are both steep- to, and may be passed if necessary at one cable's length. * .See View C on Admiralty chart: — Haro and Rosario straits, No. 2,689; scale, m = 0'5 inches. cnAP. It.] TRINCOMAIIE CHANNEL. 89 DirOOtionS. — When paHHing up or down Triucomalie channel, vossols may either tnko the passage sonthwavd ot Governor rock, or that between it and Walker rock, or northward oi ihv latter. If taking the Houthorn passage, after having cleared Atkins reef, and the shoal ofF Walker hook ; the shore of Admiral island, which is bold, should bo kept aboArd within half a mile, until Quadra hill bears N.E., when they will b(> to the west- ward of both rocks, and may steer N.N.W. over towards Galiano island, giving the south-east end of Narrow island a berth of at least half a mile, as a reef extends off it. If passing between the two rocks, which are two-thirda of a mile apart, the marks for a mid-channel course are, the north-east point of Thetis island kept well open of the east side of Narrow island, the latter bearing W. by N. ^ N. ; steer up with these marks on until Quadra hill bears N.E. when both rocks will be passed, taking care not to open the north-east point of Thetis island so much of Narrow island as to bring the former in line with Hall island, as this would lead right on to the Walker rock. The Dorthlaces, extends over 3 cables lengths in an E.S.E. direction from White spit point ; Leoch island off the northern point of the bay is a small wooded islet. Centre reef, with 6 feet water on it, and marked by kelp, should not be approached nearer than 1 \ cables, it lies almost in the centre of the entrance, nearly 3 cables N.W. ^ W. fri.m White spit, and one-third of a mile E. by S. from Leech island. Rocket shoal, on which there is only a depth of 6 feet at low water spring tides, lies nearly in the centre of the bay, with White spit extreme in line with the highest part of Indian island, bearing E. ^ S., it is half a cable in extent, with depths of from 2 to 4 fathoms around it. Directions. — The best passage into Clam bay from the eastward, is northward of Narrow, Secretary, and Indian islands, between them and Hall island ; after passing Indian island steer in for White spit on a S.W. bearing, giving it a berth of one cable. If desired, vessels may enter southward of Narrow and Secretary islands, between them and Kuper island, and there is fair anchorage in a moderate depth of water in this passage ; there are, however, several dangers in this channel, described on pnge 90, also two rocks marked by kelp with less than one fathom wi.ier on them off the south-west side of Indian island, to oe avoided ; the southern lies 4 cables S.W. ^ W. from the south end of Indian island, and the northern 1^ cables S.W. from the north end of the same island ; therefore the west side of Indian island should be kept abop" ' "nd a vessel should not bear up round White spit until its extreme = S '' ) as rocks extend off more than 3 cables' lengths E.S.E. from it 1 :us ^^ nnel is not recommended unless for small vessels acquainted with the ^.ocality. Entering from the northward there is a clear deep passage of two-thirds of a mile in l>readth between Thetis and Ileid islands. Anchorage may be had in Clam bay in 6 fathoms watei between Rocket shoal and the shore. Rose islets, five small rocky islets, the northernmost aboui 20 feef high with a few bushes on it, lies half a mile westward from the north end of Ileid island, but with no ship passage between. Ves.sels bound to Clam bay from the northward should pass westward of these islets. Yellow Cliff Anchorage.— There is fair anchorage on the western side of Valdes island, 2 miles above Portier pass, immediately oil CHAP, n.] CLAM Bay. — DODD NARROWS. 93 a yellow clifif ; 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, will be found with the cliif bearing N.W. by N. distant one quarter of a mile. It will also be known by Shingle point, a low projection with a native village on its extreme, one-third of a mile W. by N. from the yellow cliff. DODD NARROWS may te said to commence above Round island (page 78), although the narrowest part is one mile distant from it. To small vessels or steamers of moderate length and sufficient power, that answer their helm quickly, this narrow pass offers no dangers. The strength of the tide at its greatest rush is over 8 knots, the least depth of water 7 fathoms, and the narrowest part of the channel is 80 yards wide ; but this is for a short distance, and the pass being nearly straight, a vessel is carried through in a few moments. Vessels should, however, only pass through at or nearly the time of slack water. The ebb stream sets across the northern entrance to the Narrows. Percy and Round island anchorage.— if bound through Dodd narro^vd from ibe soutliward, and having to wait for slack tide, there is fair anchorage witli bui little tide, westward of Round island in 6 fathoms, midway between it and the shore. Percy anchorage on the north side of the Narrows, between Gabriola and Mudge islands, is a convenient place to wait for the tide. Mudge island separates Dodd narrows from the False ones. Directions. — When proceeding for Dodd narrows from abreast Portier pass, the mid-channel course is W.N.W. for about 3 miles, or until Ragged Is'and and Reef point of Thetis island are in line bearing S.W. by S. The most direct course is northward of Danger reef, between it and f-ee island ; the latter is a small round wooded islet lying off the south end of De Courcy islands ; this passage is two-thirds of a mile wide, with t?-^; ths of from 25 to 30 fathoms. Danger reef (page 78) consists of two rocky patches one cable's length apart, the eastern of which is generally awash, and it should not be approached within one-third of a mile ; if the reef should not be seen it is recommended to pass one-quarter of a mile to the southward from Tree island ; there is deep water between it and De Courcy islands. The passage between White rock and Danger reef is likewise a very good one ; it is half a mile wide, with depths of from 20 to 30 fathoms. White rock is 15 feet high, and may be passed if necessary on either side at the distance of 2^ cables. When the passage between Tree island and the south point of De Courcy islands is open, the former b«>aring E.N.E., a vessel will bo northward of Danger reef, when a mid-channel course 9d< WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. n. for Dodd narrows is N.W. by W. and the distance 5 miles ; Round island at their entrance should be seen ahead. When passing np, keep on the eastern side of Round island at a con- venient distance j the only directions necessary after this are to keep in mid-cliannel, and to attend the steerage quickly and carefully. When through the Narrows the strength of the tide ceases, and a vessel will be in Northumberland channel, a fine wide passage leading to, and only 5 miles from, the anchorage at Nanaimo. When taking the Narrows from the northward, be careful not to mis- take the False Narrows, on the northern side of Northumberland channel (page 149) ; they are much wider than the real pass, but nearly dry at low water. The Dodd narrows are n iO f^asy to pass through from the north as from the south, as in the former oi slight bend that has to be made must be made immediately on entering ; narrow part. The tides should be studied in passing either way. Vessels should not attempt it with the full rush of the sti-eam ; an hour before or after low water there is no difficulty to a steam vessel. AncllOrag6. — A convenient stopping place on the south side of the Narrows to await the tide is, westward of Round island. On the north side of the Narrows, temporary anchorage may be taken up on the north shore off Mudge island. Tides. — It is high water in Dodd Narrows at full and change at 3h. 30in. p.m., and low water at 9h. 30m. a.m., and at that period the flood stream commences at low water and runs about 7 hours. The first of the flood is the best time to pass the Nan-ows. Vessels leaving Nanaimo and intending to pass down, should be at the Narrows an hour before high or low water, as the tides are nearly an hour earlier there. PYLADES CHANNEL.— The De Courcy islands are a group extending 4J^ miles in an E.S.E. direction from Mudge island, which separates the False from Dodd narrows, and on the northern side of the group, between them and Valdes island, is Pylades channel, which leads by the Gabriola pass into the strait of Georgia, as well as to the entrance of the False narrows. The channel has an average breadth of one mile, with a depth of 35 fathoms, and at its bead, near the entrance to the False narrows, is good anchorage in 9 fathoms, convenient for vessels intending to take the Gabriola pass and waiting for the tide. False narrows are full of kelp, and shoal at low water, affording only a boat passage into Northumberland channel. The passages between the De Courcy islands are deep and navigable ; Ruxton passage between the north and middle islands is half a mile wide, and free from danger ; the CHAP. II.] PYLADES CHANNEL. — GABRIOLA PASS. 95 narrow pass between the middle and south island is scarcely one cable wide, but has a depth of 5 fathoms. GABRIOLA PASS, between the south end of Gabriola island and the north end of Valdes island, is not recommended, unless for coasting vessels knowing the locality, or steamers, if necessary, for it is a narrow and intricate channel, something of the same character as Dodd narrows, except that it is a much longer reach. Its direction is E.N.E. for little over one mile, its narrowest part is not over 250 yards in breadth, and the shoalest water is 6 fathoms. An island nearly one mile long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, lies over half a mile N.E. by E. from the narrow eastern entrance of the pass, shoal water extends one-th'rd of a mile E.S.E. from the south-east end of the island ; the channel from the pass into the strait of Georgia is between the south-west side of this island, and a narrow ridge of low wooded islands on the west side, off which a chain of covering rocks marked by kelp, extends nearly 2 cables' lengths to the eastward. Directions. — Proceeding through the pass into the strait of Georgia ; when nearly half a mile E.N.E. from the narrows, steer S.E. by E. | E. for three-quarters of a mile, when alter course to the eastward ; if bound to the northward, the Gabriola reefs, bearing N. by E., distant from one to 2| miles must be avoided. These latter are an extensive group of rocks covering a space of nearly 1^ miles in a N.N.E. direction, uncovering at low water, and lying 1^ miles, eastward from the Flat Top islands; much broken ground exists iu their neighbourhood, and it is desirable to give them a good berth (see page 142). There is also a passage in a northerly direction, from the pass into the strait, between the east extreme of Gabriola, and the islands off it, but it is not recommended. Telegraph. — Overhead telegraph wires are stretched across Gabriola pass ; vessels having masts over 30 feet high, should not attempt to pass under the wires. The shore end of the telegraph cable laid from Point Grey (connecting Vancouver island with the mainland) is landed at Valdes island, 2^ miles south-east of Gabriola pass. Wires are thence carried to Nanaimo and Victoria. i Tides. — The tides in Gabriola pass run from 5 to 6 knots. 96 CHAPTER III, MIDDLE CHANNEL. — LOPEZ SOUND. — ORCAS WEST AND EAST SOUNDS. Variation from 23° C to 23° 10' East in 1888. The MIDDLE CHANNEL* is thc>. centre of the three passages leading from the strait of Fuca into that of Georgia, and is bounded by San Juan island on the west, and the islands of Lopez, Shaw, and Orcas on the east. Although a deep navigable ship channel, and eligible for steamers of the largest size, the southern entrance is somewhat confined, and subject to strong tides, with a general absence of steady winds ; the wide straits of Eosario and Haro, on either side of it, are therefore far to be preferred for sailing vessels above the size of coasters. The general direction of the channel is N.N.W. for 5 miles, when it trends to the W.N.W. for 7 miles to its junction with Douglas channel. The southern entrance lies between the south-east point of San Juan and the south-west point of Lopez island ; for 1^ miles its direction is N.N.W., and the breadth of the passage for tVis distance varies from two-thirds of a mile to 4 cables' lengths ; abreast Goose island on the western side, it does not exceed the latter bi-eadth. When entering, the d'-nger to be avoided on the western side is the Salmon bank, extending southerly from San Juan ; and on the eastern the Whale rocks, always out of water. The tides in this entrance set from 3 to 6 knots an hour, with eddies and con- fused ripplings ; when within the entrance, there is far Jess tide, and Griffin bay, offering good anchorage, is easily reached. Salmon bank extends l^ miles south from Cattle point, the south- east extreme of San Juan island, a bare point about 50 feet high, the sloping termination, of mount Finlayson, and the least depth of water found on it is 10 feet, with rocky patches, marked in summer by kelp ; depths varying from 4 to 9 fathoms extend for a further distance of three-quarters of a mile in the same direction. Whale rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance, are two black rocks one cable's length apart, and 3 or 4 feet above high water ; a patch ♦ -See Admiralty chiirt : — Haro strnit and Middle cluiiinel, No. 2,340 ; scale, m inch ; also Haro and Rosario straits, No. 2,689 ; scale, m = 0*5 inches. 10 CHAP. III.] MIDDLE CHANNEL ; GRIFFIN BAY. 97 on which kelp grows, with one fathom water on it, extends 2 cables' lengths S.S.E. from them, otherwise they are steep-to, but it is not recommended to pass them nearer than one quarter of a mile, as the tides set strongly over them. Directions.* — Entering Middle channel from the westward or south- ward, Cattle point should be given a berth of at least 1| miles. Mount Erie, a remarkable summit on Fidalgo island 1,250 feet high, in line with •Tennis point bearing N.E. by E. \ E. leads 1^ miles south of Salmon bank in 13 fathoms ; when the entrance to the channel is open, bearing N.N.W., or when Goose island, a small islet on the western side of the entrance, is in line with Orcas Nob bearing N.N.W. ^ W., a vessel will be well to the eastward of the bank, and may steer in for the passage.^ Orcas Nob is a remarkable conical hill, with a bare stony summit, 1,104 feet above the sea, rising over the west side of Orcas island. The bottom in the channel is rocky and irregular, varying in depth from 18 to 60 fathoms, causing overfalls and eddies which are apt to turn a ship off her course unless the helm be given quickly to meet them ; but there are no positive dangers after passing the Salmon bank : between this bank and Cattle point there is a passage carrying 3^ fathoms, one-third of a mile in breadth ; 5 fathoms will be found within one cable's length of the point. The westernmost Whale rock seen in the centre of the channel between Charles island and the north side of Mackaye harbour leads through the middle of this naiTow channel, which, however, is not recommended. G-RIPFIN BAYJ is an extensive indentation on the eastern side of San Juan, immediately within the southern entrance of Middle channel. Although so spacious, yet from the great depth of water there is but a limited portion of the bay available for anchorage, and this is in the southern angle, immediately off the remarkable prairie land between two forests of pine trees. With all westerly or southerly winds Griffin bay affords good shelter ; but with those from North or N.E. it is considerably exposed, and landing is difficult in consequence of the long flat which extends off the beach. These winds, however, ari not of frequent occurrence. Half- tide rock, just awash at high water, lies IJ miles W. ^ N., from Harbour rock, and 4 cables from the western shore of the bay. * See Admiralty chart ; — Griffin bay, No. 611 ; scale, m = 3'0 inch. ■f See Views A. and B. on Admiralty chart: — Haro strait and Middle channel, No. 2,840; scale, w «= I-O inch. X Sec Admiralty plan of Griffin bay and adjacent anchorages, No. 611 ; scale, m = 3 ' inches. A 17498. * O 98 MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C. [chap. hi. There is another rock which ' ' ■»;,*5> ? Turn rock lies nearly one quarter of a mile N^.E. from the island, and covers at high water. The tide sets with great strength over this rock, CHAP. III.] TURN ISLAND. — FRIDAY HARBOTJIl. 99 and vessels passing up or down the channel arc recommended to give it a good berth. FRIDAY HARBOUR is on the nortli side of the peninsula, immediately opposite to North bay ; it is rather confined, but ofFers good anchorage, and is easily accessible to steamers or small vessels. Brown iuland lies iu the entrance, and there is a passage on either side of it; that to the eastward is narrow, less than one cable's length, but with a depth of 14 fathoms. Vessels entering by this passage will find anchorage in 7 fathoms in the bight immediately south of it, and distant from the island one-quarter of a mile.*" There is a clear channel through, inside the island, of more than one cable in breadth, and a depth of 6 or 7 fathoms. The passage in, westward of Brown island, is the widest, being 3 cables across. In the centre of the entrance there is a rocky patch, with a depth of 3^ fathoms at low water; it lies I ^ cables W.8.W. from the cliffy point of the island. To avoid it vessels should pass to the westward of it, keeping one cable's length oft" San Juan island shore. Anchorage. — Anchor in 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with the passage between the island and main open, and the west cliffy point of Brown island bearing N.N.E. J E., and the south point of same island bearing E. iS. "-^ ' ■'..•■' Roid rock. — After rounding Turn island, Middle channel trends to the westward, and Reid rock, the least water on which is 12 feet, lies right in the fairway ; it is surrounded by thick kelp, which, however, is sometimes run under by the tide. The rock lies l^^ miles W.N.W. from the north point of Turn island, and three-quarters of a mile N.N.E. J E. from the north-west cliff point of Brown island ; there is a clear deep channel on either side of it. It is 4^ cables from the nearest point of Shaw island, with a depth of 50 fathoms between ; and this passage on the north side of the rock is recommended for vessels bound up or down Middle channel, as, having to give the Turn rock a good berth, it is the more direct one. ■ After passing Reid rock there are no dangers which are not visible. From Caution point, one mile above the rock, on the western side, the channel gradually increases in breadth, and varies but little from a W.N.W. direction, the depth of water increasing to 60 and 70 fathoms. ..,,,., WASP ISLANDS. — On the eastern side of the channel arc the group known as the Wasp islands, between and among which are several passages leading between Shaw and Orcas islands, and communicating with * The depth of water in the bight is from 13 to 15 fathoms ; the depth of 7 fathoms is only on a small shoal patch. — Mr. John Devereux, 1886. G 2 100 MIDDL3 CHANNEL, &C. [OHAF. III. the magnificent harbours anil sounds which deeply indent the '^ourhern coasts of the latter. ROCKY BAY, on the western side of Middle channel, 4 miles from Caution point, does not afford much shelter, and vessels are not recommended to use it unless in case of necessity. The small island, O'Neal, lies in the centre of it. There is a depth of 14 fathoms between the island and San Juan, but the bottom is rocky. A reef of rocks, on which the sea generally breaks, extends 1^ cables off the San Juan shore, bearing S.W. by S. from O'Neal island. Jones island lies in the northern entrance of the Middle channel, or. the cistern side, nearly half a mile from Orcns island, being separated from the latter by Spring passage. The island is less than one mile in extent, mostly wooded, but its western points are bare and grassy. SPRING PASSAGE, between Jones island and the west side of Orcas, is a safe deep-water channel, and saves some distance to a steamer passing up or down Middle channel, by the Douglas channel. It is one mile in length, 4 cables in breadth at its narrowest part, with an average depth of 15 fathoms. Some rocky patches extend one cable's length off the eastern side of Jones island; and a rock which covers at 2 feet flood lies the same distance north of a small cove on the north-east side of the island; a rocky patch, with five fathoms water on it, lies 2 cables' lengths off the west side of Orcas island, and 6^ cables N.E. by E. from the north-west end of Jones island ; therefore it is desirable to pass through in mid-channel. Passing up or down Middle channel, the north-east end of San Juan should be avoided, as the tides are strong, and a sailing vessel is apt to be drawn into the strong tide-rips and overfalls in the eastern entrance of Spieden channel. FLATTOP ISLAND, in the northern entrance of Middle channel, 2 miles N.W. by W. from Jones island, is one-third of a mile in length, wooded, and about 100 feet high. At 2 cables' lengths off its western side is a rock nearly one cable in extent and 26 feet above high water. Between it and the island is a deep passage. DOUGLAS CHANNEL may be said to be the continuation of Middle channel, and leads into Haro strait, between Orcas and Waldron islands. There are other passages leading into the Haro strait, viz., west- ward of Flattop island, between it and Spieden and Stuart islands ; and e istward of Flattop, between it and Waldron island. In the former, the confused tides and eddies are liable to entangle a sailing ves.sel among ctTAP. III.] SPRING PASSAGE.— DOUGLAS CHANNEL. 101 Spieden and tho neighbouring groups of small islands and rocks ; in the latter, tho White rock with its ofl'-lying dangers offers serious impediments to the safe navigation of the same class of vessels. Douglas channel commences to the southward between Jones and Flat- top islands, whence it takes a N. by E. ^ E. direction for 4 J miles, and then turns N.N.W., crosses Haro strait, and at the distance of 6 miles enters the strait of Georgia, between East point of Saturna and Patos island, or between the latter and Sucia island. The narrowest part of the channel is 1^ miles between Waldron and Orcas islands; the depth varies from 90 to 108 fathoms, and both .shores are free from danger. If necessary, vessels will find a temporary anchorage in 12 fathoms water, in the bay, about 4 cables' lengths southward of the Bill of Orcas. Directions. — The channel westward of Flattop island is less than one mile in breadth at its narrowest part. Green point of Spieden island is steep-to ; a tide-rip is generally met with off it. After passing Flattop island, the channel course is N.W. by N. until Skipjack island opens of Sandy point (Waldron island), bearing N. by E. ^ E. when u tourse may be shaped either up or down Haro strait ; with the ebb, be careful not to get set into the channel between Spieden and Stuart islands. The channel eastward of Flattop island, between it and White rock, is about the same breadth as the one just described, but Danger rock, with 5 feet water on it, which lies one-quarter of a mile S.E. by E. from the centre of White rock, must be carefully avoided. After passing Flattop island, keep its eastern side just touching the western point of Jones island, bearing S.E. I E., and it will lead nearly three- quarters of a mile westward of Danger rock; when Skipjack island opens out northward of Sandy point, bearing N. by E. ^ E,, all the dangers are cleared. If passing between White rock and Disney point (the high stratified cliff of Waldron island), the latter should be kept well aboard if the ebb is running; or a vessel is liable to be set on the rock. The west bluff of Sucia should by no means be shut in by the southern part c^ 7'aldron island (these two points touching lead three-quarters of a mile c .L.rard of Danger rock, but it must be remembered the ebb sets strongly down on it), until Monarch head is well shut in with Sandy point, the latter bearing N.W. ^ N., steer through with these marks on, and when White rock is in line with the west side of Flattop island, bearing S. ^ W., a vessel will be clear of all dangers, and may steer either up or down Haro strait, givinw Sandy point a berth of half a mile. Tides. — Sailing vessels working through Douglas channel should bewai'e of getting too close over on the Waldron island shore, near Disney ( i 102 MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C. [OUAP. US. point, us witli calm or light wiud;^ they would run the risk of being uet by tlio fbh on to Danger rock, on which the kelp is seUloia seen. Both flood and ebb ^'ct fairly through Middle and Douglas channels, at the rate of 2 to 5 knots. The ebb tide, coming down between Eiist point and Putos island, strikes the north point of Wiildron island, and one part of it, together with the stream between Patos and Suoia islands, passes down Douglas and Middle channels. The other part sets between the Skipjack and Waldron islands ; thence southerly through the groups in the neighbourhood of Stuart island into Ilaro strait, as well as down Middle channel. It should bo ■ observed that the ebb stream continues to run down through the whole of the passages in the archipelago, for 2\ hours after it is low water by the shore, and the water has begun to rise. PATOS ISLAND lies 2^ miles E.N.E. from East point of Saturnn ; tlie passage between them being the widest, and at present most frequented, though it is not always the best channel from Haro or Middle channels into the strait of Georgia. Patos is IJ^ miles long in an east and west direction, narrow, wedge-shaped, sloping towards its western end, and covered with trees. Active cove at its western end is formed by a small islet connected at low water, and affords anchorage for one or two small vessels in 2 fathoms, but a strong tide-rip at the point renders it difficult for a sailing vessel to enter. The passage iuto the strait of Georgia between Patos and Sucia islands, although considerably narrower than the one just mentioned, is for several reasons at times to be preferred, especially for vessels passing through Middle channel, or for sailing vessels with a N.W. wind. The tides are not so strong, more regular, and set more fairly through ; the passage is 1 J miles wide, and is almost free from tide rips. , r, :. Directions. — if intending to take the passage between Patos and Sucia islands, either up or down, an excellent mark for clearing the Plumper and (elements reefs (dangerous patches lying southwt^rd and northward from Sucia), is to keep the remarkable round summit of Stuart island (642 feet high) just open westward of Skipjack island, the western- most wooded island north of Waldron, bearing S.W. ^ S., this leads well clear of both the reefs, and the same marks would lead across Alden bank in 5 fathoms water. If taking the passage from the Middle or Douglas chonnels, keep the •white-faced cliffs of Roberts point well open westward of Pato.. island, the cliffs bearing N.N.W. ^ W., until the marks before described are on, when steer through the passage. If the ebb stream is running, it is better to keep the Patos island shore abcnrd ; 16 fathoms water will be found on the CflAP. 111.] PATOS AND SUCIA ISLANDS. 103 ' I Sucift .shore, but it in not recommended to nnchor unless positively necesanry. When standing to the north-eastward, when Clark island is open of the east end of Matia, or Puffin islet, the former bearing E.S.E., a vessel will bo eastward of Clements reef. SUCIA ISLAND is of a horse-shoe shape, remarkably indented on its eastern side by bays and inlets, running in an east and west direction ; the largest of these, Sucia harbour, aflbrds fair anchorage. The island is from 20() to 300 feet high, thickly covered with pines, and its western side a series of steep wooded bluffs. Plumper reef, with lO feet water on it, lies 1^ miles S.W. by S. from Lawson bluff, the highest north-west point of Sucia island; 2^ miles N.N.W. from the Bill of Orcas, a remarkable bare knob point on the island of that i^ame; and nearly 2 miles S. by E. from the east point of Patos island. There is a deep passage between Pluir ►er reef and Sucia island, but it is not recommended. Clements reef, on which there is a depth of 9 feet, lies 1^ miles N.P^. \ N. from Lawson bluff; one mile N.W. ^ W. from Ewing island (the north-east point of Sucia) ; and 2 miles E. by N. from the east end of Patos. Some rocky patches covering at high water, and marked by kelp, lie between Clements reef and Ewing island, and it is not safe to pass between them. There is a deep channel of more than one mile in breadth between Sucia and Matia, the islaad to the eastward of it. DirectiOUS. — Entering Sucia harbour from the northward, steer for it, with the west point of Clark island in line with Puffin islet, about S.E. by E., which leads between Alden bank and Clements reef ; when Ewing island bears S.W. by S., alter course to about South, giving the point of the island a berth of at least 3 cables, to avoid some rocky patches which extend 2 cables S.E. from it. When the harbour is well open steer up the centre W. ^ S. ; it is better to keep the southern or Wall island ahoro rrtlier aboard, as it is quite steep, and vhere are some reefs extend- ing one cable's length off the north shore. When the west point of Ewing is just shut in by the east point of Sucia bearing N.E. by N., anchor in the centre in 7 or 8 fathoms, mud bottom. If intending to make any stay it is desirable to moc r, as the harbour is small for a large vessel ; it affords good shelter from westerly winds ; with those from S.E. some swell sets in but never sufficient to render the anchorage unsafe. If entering from Douglas channel, keep Orcas bill just touching the south bluff" of Waldron island, bearing S.W. | S. ; this leads well west- ward of Parker reef. The south-east points of Sucia may be passed at lot MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C. [chap. III. i^m one cable's length ; they are a scries of narrow islands the sides of which are as steep as a wall, with narrow deep passages between them ; steer in, keeping the northernmost of these islands aboard, to avoid the reefs on the uoi'th side of the harbour. For a steamer it is i-ecommended to pass in between the nortli and middle Wall islands, as it gives more room to pick up a berth ; this passage, though less than one cable wide, has 12 and lo fathoms water in it, and the wall-like sides of the islands are steep-to. If bound to Sucia harbour from Rosario strait, pass on either side of Barnes, Clark, and Matia islands as convenient ; if northward of the latter, as soon as the harbour is open, steer for it, keeping the southern side aboard as before directed, gr passing between north and middle Wall islands ; if southward of Matia island, then do not stand so far to the westward as to shut in the north part of Sinclair island with Lawrence point, in order to avoid Parker reef. Parker reef '^ of considewible extent, lying in the passage between Sucia and Oreas islands ; at low water it uncovers one quarter of a mile of rock and sand, but its eastern end always shows its rocky summit which is just awash at high water. It lies 2^ miles N.E. ^ E. from Nob point (Orcas bill), and 1^ miles S. ^ E. from the east point of Sucia. There is a passage on both sides of the reef; that to the northward between it and Sucia is one mile wide, v/ith a depth of from 35 to o5 fathoms ; that to tiie southward, between it and Orcas, is half a mile wide, with a depth of from 6 to 8 fathoms, but a stranger is recommended not to use it, as the points of Orcas at this part run ofl' shoal. If the northern passage is used, the north part of Skipjack island kept in line with the south extreme of Pender island bearing W.S.W., leads well clear of Parker reef. A part of the ebb stream setting down between Sucia and Matia islands, runs to the westward strongly over Parker reef, and through the channels on both sides of it ; the flood sets in the contrary direction. A patch of 3 fathoms lies at the distance of one-quarter of a mile W.S.W. from Parker reef, with depths of from 4 to 5 fathoms extending for one- third of p. mile from its west side. MatiSl island, "^ little more than one mile eastward from Sucia, is about one mile in extent, east and west, and has no dangers off it ; ou its Bouthorn side are several boat coves. Close off its eastern extrenie is Puffin islet, off which a flat rock extends 1^ cables' lengths. Skipjack and Penguin islands are small islands lying close ofl' the north side of Waldron island ; the former is considerably the larger, and is wooded ; the latter is small, grassy, and bare of trees. A reef which covers, and is marked by kelp, lies between the two, but between this reef and Skipjack island thev? is a narrow passage of ■" RB c;uAP. III.] PARKER REEF. — MACKATE HARBOUR. 105 I 8 fathoma. The tides, however, set strongly between the islands, iintl it is not recommended ; neither, for the same reason, is the passage between them and Waldron island unless to those thoroughly acquainted with the navigation. LOPEZ ISLAND, the southernmost of the islands, on the eastern side cf Middle channel, helps to form the western side of Kosario strait, as it does the eastern sides of the Middle channel. It is 9 miles long, north and south, and 3 miles wide, thickly wooded, but differs from all the other islands of the Archipelago in being much lower and almost flat, except at its northern and southern oxtremesj v;hcre elevations occur of a few auiulrcd feet. Its southern side is much indented by bays and creeks, v/hich, however, from their exposed position and rocky nature, cannot be reckoned on as anchorages ; on its western side, in Middle channel, is a creek terminating in an extensive lagoon, the former offering great facilities for beaching and repairing ships. On the north shore is Shoal bay affording anchorage ; and on the east is the spacious and excellent sound of Tih soon decreases to 9 fathoms, varying between that and o fathoms for a disl^anco of 2| miles, or as far up as Houston island, the breadth being about 1;^ miles. Middle bd.il?t, <>n which there are not less than 3 fathoms at low water, is the only impediment between Frost and Houston islands. It is half a mile in extent nortli and south, 2 cables east and west, and lies almost in the centre of the sound, its north end being one-quarter of a mile S.S.E. from the south end of Frost island, and 1^ miles S.W. by \V. \ W. from the north entrance point of Thatcher passage, or south point of Blakely isliiul. Betwetm Frost island f.ad the bank there are fioiu 9 to 14 fathoraa, and between the south ond of the baak and the west shore lOS MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C. [chap. iir. of Decatur island there is a channel one-third of a mile wide, with a depth of from 6 to 20 fathoms ; close off this part of Decatur island is a ledge of rocks always awash at high water. Between Middle bank and Houston island there is anchorage in any part of the sound in from 5 to 7 fathoms, mud bottom. elust above Houston island, and abreast Mauiy passage (between the south end of Decatur and the north-east point of Lopez), the water deepens to 13 and 15 fathoms, and this depth is carried for 1^ miles, or as fitr as Crown islet, a small steep rocky islet on the eastern side, within one mile of the head of the sound. Tides. — There is but little stream of tide felt in Lopez sound, unless in the immediate neighbourhood of the narrow passages from Rosario strait. Entrance shoal, with 2 fathoms water on it, and marked by kelp, must be avoided by vessels working in ; it lies 1 1 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from Upright point, and half a mile from the shore of Blakely island ; there is deep Wiuer on either side of it. False bay, on the west side of the sound, one mile from Shoal bay, is only separated from it by a low narrow neck, one cable's length across, the cliffy extreme of the peninsula being Separation point. A shoal, on which there is a depth of 2 fathoms, extending from the centre of False bay, and connecting with the small island of Arbutus, lying in its entrance, renders it unlit for anchorage except for small vessels ; but vessels may anchor in 8 fathoms southward of Arbutus, between it and Frost island. Half-Tide rock, covering at half flood, and not marked by kelp, is in the track of vessels entering. It lies three-quarters of a mile S.E. by E. ^ E. from Separation point, and 4 cables N.N.W. ^ W. from Arbutus island. It is better to pass eastward of it, when it is not visible ; the point of Upright hill kept just open of Separation point, bearing W. by N. ^ N., until the clay cliff of Gravel spit is in line with the east point of Arbutus island, bearing S. by E., will lead clear of it. Frost island, half a mile long north and south, lies close off Gravel spit on the west side of the sound ; it is wooded, and its western side a steep chft, between which and tho spit end there is a narrow channel with a depth of 5 fathoms. Black and CrOWU islets.— The Black islets are a ridge of steep rocky islets, lying within and across the entrance of Maury passuge ; at 2 cables S. by W. from the southernmost of these islets is a rock which covers at quarter flood. There is a passage of 8 and 9 fathoms on either side of Crown islet, and anchorage above it in 5 or G fathoms, liit vessels should not proceed far above, as at the distance of one-third of a mile it CH\r. HI.] LOPEZ SOUNi).— MAURY PASSAGE. 109 shoals to one and 2 fathoms, and dries for a considerable distance from the head of the sound ; there is also good anchorage in o fathoms in the bight, westward of Crow, ^ islet. Passing up the sound between Crown islet and the western shore a rocky patch of 2 fathoms must be avoided ; its lies one-qnarter of a mile W. by N. \ N. from Crown islet, and 4 cables from the western shore of the sound ; there are 12 fathoms close to it, and deep water in the passage on either side of it. Thatclier passage, between Blakely and Decatur islands, is the widest and most convenient passage into Lopez sound from Rosario strait ; it is 1^ miles in length, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a general depth of from 20 to 25 fathoms. The tides in Thatcher passage run from 2 to 4 knots. LawSOn rock, lying almost in the centre of the eastern entrance, is the only danger, and covers at 2 feet flood. It lies 4 cables N.W. by N., from Fauntleroy point, the south-eastern entrance point, in line with Round head (half a mile to the southward), and a little more than half a mile S. by W. ^ W. from the White rock. There is a good passage on either side of the rock, but that tc the southward is the best. Directions. — Entering Thatcher passage from the southward, if the flood is running, the south shore should be kept pretty close aboard, as until well within the passage it sets up towards Lawson rock. When the passage between Decatur and James islands is shut in by Fauntleroy point, a vessel will be just westward or inside the rock.* Vessels entering by Thatcher passage, and drawing over 18 feet, should avoid the Middle bank by keeping the south shore aboard within 2 cables ; White rock in line with the south point of Blakely island leads over tlio tail of the shoal in 20 feet. The flood tide sets from Rosario strait through Thatcher passage both up and down the sound ; a slight stream of flood also enters the sound from the northward. Maury passage, between Decatur island and the north-east point of Lopez, is the southernmost entrarce to the sound from Rosario strait. It is scarcely 2 cables wide at the entrance, with a depth of 12 fathoms; Ihe Black islets lie across the western entrance, and it is necessary to keep to the southward, between them and Lopez. Obstruction passages. — Obstruction island lies in the centre ot the channel, between the north point of Blakely and the south-east point of Orcas island, and the passages on either side of it form safe and * A small iron beacon placed on this rock would render the passage quite safe for any clasB of Tessel. 110 MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C. [OHAP. III. couvenicnt oomnmnicatioii, by Upri^lit channel, between the Middle channel and Rosario strait ; they likewise lead from Kosario strait to Orcas and Lopez sonnds. These passes are more adapted to steam than sailing vessels, although there would be no difficulty with a leading wind and fair tides. Small vessels would find no difficulty if the tides were properly taken advant.igc of. North Obstruction Pass i« about l^ milcH long, and its average breadth 2 cables. Entering from the eastward it takes a Avosterly direction for two-thirds of a mile, then S.S.W. for nearly the same distance, the narrowest part (less than two cables) occurring just after making the bend ; the general depth of water is from H to 14 fathoms, and there are no dangers which are not visible. In consequence of the bend in this channel it has more the appearance of a deep bay, when seen from either entrance. The east end of Obstruction island should not be ai)proached nearer than one cable, as shelving rocks extend a short distance off it ; the best course for a steamer is to keep in mid-channel. The eastern entrance bears W.S.W. from Cypress cone, a remarkable bare peak on the north end of Cypr(!ss island. South Obstruction Pass, though narrower than the North, is perhaps 1 he better channel of tlie two,asit is not more than three-quarters of a mile in length, and is perfectly straight in a N.E. andS.W. direction. Its naiTowest part is not much more than one cable wide ; the deptli of water much the same as in the northern pass. On the south side of the eastern entrance two rocks extend off Blakely island, the inner Ix'iug always above high water ; the outer-, a long black rock, is nearly one-quarter of a mile off shore, and is just awash at high water. Entering from Rosario strait the pass should be brouglit well open bearing S.W. before approaching it nearer than half a mile; in like manner wlien passing into Rosario strait, if the black rock is not seen, a N.E. course should be maintained until at that distance from the eastern entrance. When the west point of Burrows island opens out eastward of the east point of Blakely island, bearing S.E., a vessel will be half a mile eastward of .any dangers. The south side of the pass appears like a round wooded island, in consequence of the land falling abruptly behind it, where there are two lagoons. Tides. — The flood tide in both passes sets to the Avestward from Rosario strait, and the ebb to the eastward ; the latter runs for nearly two hours after it is low water by the shore ; the strength varies from 2 to 5 knots. SHAW ISLAND is much of the same character as Lopez, though considerably smaller, being about 3 miles in exvent i.i any direction. OHAP. III.] OBSTRUCTION PASSES. — WASP ISLANDS. Ill It is the continuation of the eastern side of the Middle channel, and between it and Orcas island lie the Wasp {j;roup, among which are several passages leading to Orcas and Lopez sounds, and into Rosario strait. WASP ISLANDS and PASSA.GES.-The Wasp islands, five in number, besides some smalhir islets and rocks, lie on the eastern side of Middle channel, between Shaw and Orcas islands. TTellOW island, the westernmost of the group, is rather remarkable from its colour, grassy and nearly bare of trees, the remainder of the group being wooded ; from its west end a sandy spit extends one cable, having at its extreme; a rock which dries at low water, and around which kelp grows ; this point should be avoided when passing up or down Middle channel. Brown and Reef islands lie northward of Yellow island ; off the west side of the latter a reef extends for more than one cable's length, and several rocks surrounded by kelp, extend over one cable's length off the west side of Brown island. Wasp passage leads through this group to Orcas sound and Rosario strait. With the assistance of the chart a steamer would find but little difficulty in passing through it, though the passage by Upright channel is to be preferred. Crane island, on the northern side of Wasp passage, is wooded, and much larger than either of the Wasp group. Nob islet is a remarkable round islet, 50 feet high, \^ iih two or three bushes on its summit ; it lies just westward of Cliff island. Directions. — Passing between Brown and Reef islands, where the channel is nearly one-quarter of a mile wide, with a depth of 9 fathoms,* Bird rock (awash at high water) may be passed on either side ; the widest passage is to the eastward of it, between it and Crane island, where the channel is one-quarter of a mile across, and has a depth of 15 fathoms. The passage northward of Crane island is so narrow that it appears joined to Orcas. After passing Bird rock steer to the southward of Crane island, between it and Cliff island (the south-easternmost of the Wasps), and thence between Crane island and the north end of Shaw island. For two-thirds of a mile the channel is of a good breadth, with no dangers until approaching the east end of Crane island, when it narrows to little more than one cable. Tho steep cliffy shore of Shaw island must now be kept aboard to avoid the Passage rock, which lies 1^ cables * II. M.S. Sparrowhawk passed over u depth of 4 fathoms surrounded bj- kelp, lying between Reef and Brown islands. 112 MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C. [OHAP. in. eastward of Passage island. Nob islet, just touching the north end of Cliff island, and just open southward of the south side of Crane island, leads one cable's length south of Passage rock, which is covered at 2 feet rise. When Orcas nob is just over the narrow passage between Double islands and the west shore of West sound, bearing N.N.W. | W. a vessel is eastward of Passage rock, and may steer up West sotind, or eastward for East sound, or Rosario strait. Passing out of West sound the same marks are equally good ; steer down just westward of Broken point (a remark- able cliffy peninsula on the north side of Shaw island) until they are in line, when steer for them, giving the south side of Crane island a moderate berth, and passing out of Wasp channel, as before directed for entering it. If desired, a vessel may pass into Wasp channel to the southward of Yellow island, between it and Low island (a small islet), thence north- ward of Nob islet, and as before directed, between Crane and Cliff islands. There is another passage into Wasp channel southward of Cliff island, between it and Neck point, the remarkable western extreme of Shaw island. The breadth between them is a little over oue cable, but there is a patch of 4 fathoms, with kelp on it, in the centre of the passage. If taking this channel there is a reef lying S.W. ^ S., and extending more than one- qnarter of a mile from the south-west end of Cliff island; this reef is sometimes covered., and is the only danger known that is not visible. These two latter passages are the shortest into the Wasp channel for vessels from the southward. The eye will be found the best guide ; a good look-out is necessary, and to a steamer there is no difficulty. To the northward of Crane island, between it and Orcas, there is a narrow channel, but though deep it is only fit for boats. ■ * '.. . i Tides. — The flood iide sets to the west in the eastern entrance of Wasp channel, but in the western entrance the flood from the Middle channel partially sets to the eastward, and causes some ripplings i.\moag the islands, which may be mistaken for shoal water. •..'.-«> North, passage. — This clear deep channel leading to Deer harbour, the westernmost port in Orcas island, lies between Steep point, (the f