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<77^*^

THE

BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT,

INCLUDING

THE COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, FROM JUAN
UE FUCA STRAIT TO PORTLAND CANAL,

TOOIiiUiiU WITH

VANCOUVER AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

COMPILED FllOM ADMIRALTY SUBVKYb.

rUUUSUBD BY ORDBB OP THE LOBDS COMMI88IONEUS OF TlIK ADMIKALTT.

LONDON:
PKINTED I'Oll THE UYDIIOGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMlUALTYj

AND SOLD BY

J. D. rOTTER, Aijenlfor the sale of Admiralty Charts,
31 POULTRY, AND 11 KING STREET, TOWER HILL.

IS88.

Price 5s, (id.

Bydfographio Not3c-:> lii-X

TO THE

BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT.

The British Columbia Pilot contains sailing directions for the
coast from Juan de Fuca strait to Portland canal ; with the
adjacent inner channels ; also Vancouver and Queen Charlotte
islands.

The information relating to the coast from the entrance to Juan
de Fuca strait, and Haro and Rosario straits, to Bute inlet, as
also to Vancouver island and adjacent channels, was obtained
from the journals and surveys conducted by C<iptain G. H.
Richards, R.N., in H.M. Sui'veying Vessels Plumper and Hecate,
between the years 1857 and 1802. This, together with a descrip-
tion of the included shores of Washington territory, derived from
United States Government Surveys, was published as the Vancouver
Island Pilot, in 18G4.

The coast of the mainland from Bute inlet to Queen Charlotte
sound is chiefly derived from the Admiralty survey in charge of
D. Ponder, Master R.N., 1863-65.

The directions for the coast between Queen Charlotte sound
and Portland canal, with the adjacent inner channels, are chiefly
derived from the Admiralty sui"vey conducted by Staff Commander
D, Pender, R.N., during the years 1865-70. The description of
Queen Charlotte islands is compiled chiefly from the report by
G. M. Dawson, Esq., F.G.S., published by the Government of
Canada, 1880, to which is added information derived from a
visit of H.M.S. Virago in 1853, and from the Admiralty Survey
of 18('6. Tliese were originally published as the Vancouver Island
Pilot Supplement, in 1883.

17498. Wt. 97. n ti

In the present edition, tl t most recent information derived
from the Remark Ijooks o; jfficers of Her .vl<jesty's ships, the
Government of Canada, and from other sources, including Van-
couver's Voyage ; the Paoi6c Coast Pilot of California, Oregon and
Washington Territory, 18G9 ; and the Pacific Coast Pilot, Alaska,
Part I., 1883, published by the United States Government, has
also been embodied. It has been prepared by Staff Commander
F. W". Jarrad and Captain W. H. Sharp, R.N.

Notices of errors or omiosions in this work, as well as any new
information of interest to the navigator, should bo transmitted
to the Secretary of the Admiralty,

By the publication of this work, the Vancouver Island Pilot, 18G4 ;
the Supplement to Vancouver Island Pilot, 1883 ; also all Hydro-
graphic Notices relating to them; and all Notices to Mariners,
inclusive of No. 89 (1), of 1888, are cancelled.

W. J. L. W

Hydrographic OflSce, Admiralty, London,
March 1888.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTORY.

GENERAL REMARKS. — WINDS, CURRENTS, AND CLIMATE,
MET ilOROLOGY, PRODUCTS, PASSAGES.

British Columbia. Trade. Population. Railways. Climato -
Fogs. Winds ........

Currents. Tides . - . - .

Passages. Buoyage- ....--

Pago
1-6

6-10
10-12
12-16

CHAPTER I.

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

Juan do Fuca strait. Lights. Soundings .... 17-18
Cape Flattery, or Classet. Tatoosh island light. Duncan and Duntz

rocks ......... 19-20

The coast south of Cape Flattery. Destruction island. Directions - 20-22
Neeah bay. Callam and Freshwater bays . . - . 22-24

Port Angelos, or False Dungencss. Directions, New Dungeness.

Light. Fog-bell. Electric telegraph. Anchorage. Tides - 24-26

Port Discovery. Admiralty inlet. Lights. Fog signal. Port

Townshend. Hood Canal. Port Madison. Puget sound - - 26-29

Port San Juan. Sooke inlet ..--.. 29-32
Becher bay. Eace island. Light. Race Passage. Bentijick island.

Pedder and Parry bays. Eoyal bay, or roads. Fisgard light.

Esquimalt harbour ; winds ; coal ; water ; anchorage ■• . 32-39

Victoria harbour; supplies; anchorage. Brotchy ledge. Trial

islands ..-.-... 39,43

Enterprise channel. Inner channels. Discovery and Chatham islands.

Directions. Tides. Constance bank. FontS bank . - 43-49

Haro strait. Middle bank. Zero rock. Kelp reefs. Directions

Cormorant bay. Tides ...... 49-53

Plumper sound. Browning port. Lyall harbour. Winter cove;

water. Navy channel. Conconi and Enterprise reefs. Directions - 53-57
Bedwell harbour. Camp bay. Stuart and Johns islands. Spieden

islands and channel, with reefs. Directions - - . 67-60

San Juan island. Mosquito passage. Roche harbour. Waldron island,

and anchorages. Danger rook - . . . . 60-63

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II.

THE WESTERN CHANNELS AND ISLANDS TO GABRIOLA PASS.

Page
The western channels of Haro strait. Directions - - - 64-66

Miners channel. Shuto passage. Moresby passage and dangers - 66-69
Prevost passage, and dangers. Satellite channel. Saauich inlet;

Cowitchin harbour -...-..
Sansum narrows. Burgoyne and Maple bays
Stuart channel. Osborn bay. Horsc-shoc bay. Oyster harbour.

Chemainos bay. Escape reef. Danger reef. Vesuvius bay. Telegraph

harbour. Preedy harbour ......

Swanson channel. Admiral island. Fulford and Ganges harbours.

Captain passage. Long harbour . . - . .

Prevost and Hawkins islands. Active pass ; light ; directions ;

tides .--......

Trincomalie channel. Montague harbour. Atkins reef. Governor

and Walker rocks. Directions. Houston passage .
Portier pass. Clam bay. Centre reef. Directions. Anchorage -
Dodd narrows ; directions ; tides. Pylados channel. Gabriola pass -

69-73
73-74

74-80

80-83

83-86

86-90
90-93
93-95

CHAPTER III.

MIDDLE CHANNEL. — LOPEZ SOUND. — ORCAS, WEST AND EAST SOUNDS.

The Middle channel. Directions, Griffin l)ay. Tides. Turn island,
and rock, Friday harbour. Reid rock. Wasp islands. Spring
passage ........ 96-100

Douglas channel. Directions. Tides. Patos and Sucia islands.

Parker roof, Matia island. Skipjack and Penguin islands - 100-105

Lopez island. McKaye harbour. Upright channel. Shoal bay.
Lopez sound ........ 105-108

Frost island. Black and Crown islands. Thatcher passage. Lawson
rock. Maury and Obstruction passages. Tides. Shaw island . 108-111

Wasp islands, and passages. North passage. Orcas island ; its har-
bours and bays ....... 111-116

CHAPTER IV.

ROSARIO STRAIT, — BRITISH COLUMBIA; AND SHORES OF
STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

Rosario strait. Smith or Blunt island. Light. Directiona -
Cape Colville, with rocks. Davis bay. Anchorage, Burrows bay

Dennis rock. Deception pass ....

Bird rock. Belle rock. James island. White and Black rocks
Cypress island. Strawberry bay. Cypress reef. Sinclair island

117-119

119-121
121-122
122-123

CONTENTS.

Vll

Peapod iflletH. TidoB. Lumtni island. Clark and Barnes islands.

Matia island. Aldon bank ...... 123-125

Birch bay. Seraiahmoo and Bouiidury bays. Drayton harbour.

Directions. Tides. Roberts point. Roberts bank - . 125-128

Strait of Georgia. Dangers. Caution. Tides . - . 128-130

Fraser river. Directions. Now Westminstor. Derby, or Now

Langloy. The North fork ...... 130-136

Burrard inlet. Enf'lish bay. Directions. Tides. Vancouver

harbour. Port Moody. North arm .... 136-142

Strait of Georgia, south shore. Gabriola roofs. Thrasher rock.

Entrance island. Light. Fairway channel. Dire( ions . - 142-144

Nanaimo harbour. Coal. Departure bay. Middle channel. North.

umberland channel ... ... 144-I49

CHAPTER V.

STRAIT OF GEOUaiA, FROM NANAIMO HARBOUR AND BURRARD
INLET, TO CAPE MUDOE AND BUTE INLET,

Strait of Georgia. Tides. Winds. Nanoose harbour and islands

off it. Directions. Winchelsoa islands
BalHnac islands. Ballinao channel. North- west bay
Qualicum rivor. Qnalicum bay. Dcnmaii and Hornby islands.
Bay nes sound. Directions. Deep bay. Fanny bay. Henry bay.
Port Augusta. Courtenay river. Lambert channel. Tribune
bay. Capo Lazo -.---..

Directions. Gillies bay

shore. Howe sound. Queen Charlotte

Collingwood channel

cove. Gambier island. Port Graves.

Lasqueti island. Tucker bay. Sabine channel .

Thorraanby islands. Welcome pass. Buccaneer

Oyster bay. Cape Mudge.
Strait of Georgia, north

channel. Anvil island.
Shoal channel. Plumper

Texada island.
Malaspina strait.

point.

bay. Bargain harbour. Jervis inlet. Agamemnon channel.

Pender harbour. Thunder bay. Dark cove. Princess Louisa

inlet. Seechelt arm. Tides - - - - .

Harwood island. Savary island. Mystery rock. Sarah

Mitlenatch island. Hernando island. Stag bay
Baker passage. Lewis channel. Squirrel cove ...
Malaspina inlet. Grace harbour. Kinghorn island. Desolation

sound. Prideaux haven. Homfray and Waddington channels.

Toba inlet -----...
Sutil channel. Cortes island. Gorge harbour. Mary island.

Carrington bay. Von Donop creek - - - . .

Drew harbour. Hoskyn inlet. Read island. Evans bay. Direc.

tions -....-...
Calm channel. Rendezvous islands. Bute inlet. Waddington

harbour. Homalko river. Cardero channel. Loughborough

inlet .......

150-153
15a-154

154-163
164-165

165-168

168-173

173-180

180-182
182-184

184-189
189-192
192-194

194-199

vni

CONTJixNTS.

CHAPTER VI.

KUOM TUK STllAIT OF QEOROIA WESTWAJID TO CAl'K SCOTT
AND TUK SCOTT ISLANDS.

Pago
Discovery pasaago. Tides. Quatbiasky covo. Gowlland harbour,

Duucan bay. Monzies bay. Seymour narrows - - - 200-204

Plumper bay. Elk bay. Otter cove. Ohatliam point. Dii-ections.
Nodules canal. Cameleoii liurbour. .lobii.stoiie strait. Knox Lay.
Holnickon island. Itaco, and Current passages. Wcllbore
chaunel. Forward barbour. Hundorlaud cbaunol. Topazo
harbour. Hardwicko island .... 204-211

BlinkiuBop bay. Port Neville. Port Harvey. Havaunab channel.
Call crook. Chatham chaunel .... 211-214

Escape roof. Forward bay. Boat harbour. Hanson and Cracroft
islands. Directions for Johnstone strait - - . 214-216

Broughtou strait. Tides. Nimpkish river. Port McNeill. Cormo-
rant island. Alert bay. Malcolm island. Directions - - 216-220

Queen Charlotte sound. Beaver harbour. Fort Eupcrt. Direc-
tions. Hardy bay - - - - - - 220-223

Eastern shores of Queen Charlotte Sound. Baronet passage. Clio
channel. Harbledown island. Blackfisb sound. Farewell har-
bour. Beware passage ...... 223-227

Knight inlet. White Clifi' islands. Twilight reefs. Clock rock,
Port Elizabeth. Minstrel island. Chatham chaimel. Cutler
creek. Hocya sound. Glondale cove - - . 227-231

Glacier. Escape, Canoe, House, Sedge, Start, and High islands.
Spring and Retreat passages. Health bay. Cramer passage.
Shoal harbour. Bonwick island. Dusky cove. Arrow passage - 232-235

Sunday harbour. Eden island. Marsden islands. Tracey island.
Monday anchorage. Fife Sound. Foster, Pcnfold, and Holford
islands. Cullen harbour. Deep harbour. Viuer souud. Simoon
sound. Raleigh passage. Fife inlet directions. Tribune channel.
Kwatsi and Wah ka na bays. Bond and Thompson sounds.
Gilford island - 235-240

Broughton i.sland. Polkinghorne islands. Carter bay. Wells pass.
Ommaney islet. Sutlej channel. Tracey harbour. Atkinson
island. Kinnaird island. Greenway sound. Cypress harbour.
Stackhouse island. Tides -.-... 241-244

Kingcome inlet. Wakeman sound. Belleislo sound. Penphraso
passage. Drury inlet. Voak lock. Centre rock. Muirhead
islands. Actceon sound. Grappler sound. Dunsany, Hopetown
and Kenneth passages. Mackenzie sound. Boyles point. Lewis
rocks. Numas islands. Labouchere channel. Rayner group.
Gillot and Black rocks ...... 244h-240

Blunden harboiu-; directions. Bruwning islands. Millar group.
Mary rock. Deserters. Ripple passage. Sun rock. North
channel. Wallace islands. Shelter bay. Wentworth and Annie
rocks. Southgate group. Murray labyrinth. Branham island.
Schooner passage. Mayor island. Morphy rock. Fox islands - 249-253

H,
Nc

CONTENTS.

Page

Slingsby channel. Onttcr narrows. Nak wuk to rapids. Direc-
tionM. Trcivdwcll bay. Caution rock. Nagont sound. So^'mour
inlet. Belize inlet. Meroworth sound. Stracban bay. Westor-
man bay. Allison sound. Bromner islet - - - . 253-257

Goletas channel. Tides. Shushartio bay. Directions. Cape Com-
merell. Gordon group. Balaklava island. Christie passage.
Browning channel. Galiano island. Port Alexander. Shadwell
passage. Suwaneo rock. Directions. Bate passage. Bull har-
bour. Nahwitti bar. Directions ..... 257-263

New channel. Walker group. Storm islands. Sealed passage.
Blind reef. South, Middle and north rocks. Directions. Coast - 263-267

Cape Scott. Scott channel. Scott islands. Tides. Directions. .1 :-
marks on the navigation of the inner waters between Cape Mudgu
and the Paciiic. Wator. Supplies ..... 267-269

CHAPTER VII.

VANCOUVER T;^LAND, west coast ; FROM JUAN DE FUC k
STRAIT TO SYDNEY INLET.

General «.l' oription. Making the land. Winds. Tides. Onter
soundings. Natives. Supplies. Trade .... 270-272

Bonilla point. Nitinat lake. Pachena bay. Sea-bird islet - - 272-273

Barclay sound. Eastern channel, its islands and anchorages. Light.
Albemi inlet. Uchncklesit harbour. Stamp harbour. Directions
Middle channel and dangers. Satellite pass. Chain islands
Junction passage. Brokcji group. Island harbour. Directions.
Scchart channel. EflSugham inlet. Directions. Western channel.
Great bank. Directions. Peacock channel. Mayne bay. Toquart
hai-bour. Directions. Ship channel. Ugly channel. Ucluelet
arm. Carolina channel. Directions. Wreck and Long bays.
Point Cox 273-294

Clayoqnot sound. Templar and Broken channel. Vargas island
Ship channel. Sea Otter rock. Hecate passage. Hecate bay.
Cypress bay. Ritchie bay. Bedwell sound. Fortune channel.
Mosquito harbour. Dooeption pass. Tofino inlet. Gunner har-
bour. Browning passage. North channel. Flores island. Sydney
inlet. Rufuge cove. Shelter and North arms. Bawden bay.
Directions ........ 294-306

CHAPTER VIII.

VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST ; FROM CLAYOQUOT SOUND
TO CAPE SCOTT.

Hesquiat harbour. Estevan point ...

Nootka sound. Bajo reef. Friendly cove, Kendrick arm,
harbour. Tahsis canal, Guaquina or Muchalat arm,
arm. Deserted creek. Head bay. Directions
A 17498.

- 307-308
Plumper
Tlnpana

- 308-314
b

CONTENTS.

Pago
Nootka island. Nuchatlitz iulet, and dangers off entrance. Mary

basin. Port Langford. Directions - - . - . 314-317

Esperanza inlet. Middle channel. Blind and Middle reefs. North
channel. Catala island. Rolling roadstead. Port Eliza. Queen's
cove. Espinoza and Zeballos arms. Directions ... 317-322
Barrier island. Kyuquot sound. Kyuquot channel. Union island.
Narrowgut creek. Tahsish arm. Fair harbour. Kokehittle arm.
Easy creek. Directirjs ...... 323-328

Olan ninick harbour. Halibut channel. Directions . - - 328-329

Ou ou kinsh inlet. Sulivan reefs. Battle bay. Directions - - 330-331

Naaparti inlet. Mile rock breaker. Directions ... 331-332
Cape Cooke. Brooks bay. Klaskish inlet. Directions. Ship rock

Klaskino inlet. Channel reefs. Directions. Lawn point - 333-337

Qnatsino sound. Surf islands. Danger rocks. Forward inlet. North
harbour. Winter harbour. Pilly shoal. Koprino harbour. Lime-
stone island. South-east arm. Hecate cove. Quatsino narrows.
Rupert and West arms. Coal harbour. Directions . - 337-347

The coast. Ragged point. Raft cove. San Josef bay. Sea otter
cove. Cape Russell -----.. 347-349

CHAPTER IX.

INNER CHANNELS, — QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH

CHANNEL.
General Remarks. Cape Caution. Sea Otter group. South

passage. Smith sound ...... 350-353

Alexandra passage. Beaver passages. False Egg Island. Table

island. Cluster reefs. Long point ..... 353-355

Takush harbour. Fitzhugh sound ..... 356-358

Cape Calvert. Schooner Retreat. Rivers inlet - - . 357-360

Safety cove. Hakai channel. Coldstream harbour. Naulau pas-
sage. Namu harbour ...... 361-363

Burke chan? .el. Restoration cove. Bolakula. Fisher channel. Fog

rocks. Port John. Dean channel. Cascade inlet. Lama passage.

Cooper inlet ---..•.. 363-368
McLaughlin bay. Bella Bella islands. Klick tso atli harbour.

Gunboat passage ... . . . 369-371

Seaforth channel. Ormidale harbour. Kynumpt harbour. Dall

patch. Dundivan inlet. Cod bank. Hyndman and Midge reefs.

A-nchorage -.--.... 371-374

CHAPTER X.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.
Landmarks. White rock. Discovery rock. Mouse rock. Vancouver

rock .........

-OSS ledge. Beaver bank. Price island . . . .

lirections approaching Milbank sound. Mathieson channel. St.

John harbour. Anchorage. Caution • . .

375-377
377-378

379-381

CONTENTS.

Port Blakeney. Tides. Supplies. Directions. Moss passage

Morris bay. Directions. Anchorage
Alexandra passage. Schooner passage. Finlayson channel. No

wish cove .......

Cone island. Klemtoo passage. North passage

Mussel inlet. Carter bay. Hie Kieh narrows. Hewitt rook. Tol

mie channel. Graham reach. Swanson bay
Eraser reach. Warke island. McKay reach. Ursula channel

Fisherman and Bishops coves. Devastation and Gardner channels

Kitimat and Kildala arms. Douglas channel. Wright sound
Holmes bay. Promise island. Coghlan anchorage. Tidal streams
Grenville channel. Lowe inlet ....

Klewnuggit inlet. Stuart anchorage ....
False Stuart anchorage. Gibson islands. Watson rock. Gauboat

harbour. Port Fleming. Kennedy island. Arthur passage
Lawson harbour. Ohismore passage. Malacca passage. Skeena

river ........

Telegrflph passage. Port Essingtou, Anchorage. Tides -

Page

381-383

383-384
385-386

386-389

389-393
393-396
396-398
398-399

399-401

402-405
405-407

CHAPTER XI.

CHATHAM SOUND, EDYE AND BROWN PASSAGES AND DIXON

ENTRANCE.

Landmarks. Dangers. Sound-

Chatham sound, general remarks

ings. Anchorages
Gull rocks. Eachel and Lucy islands.

Metlah catlah. Duncan bay. Directions
Tree bluff. Big bay, directions . - -

Burnt cliff island. Finlayson island. Pearl harbour
Sparrowhawk rock. Cunningham passage. Port Simpson.

tioiiB ......

Inskip passage. Fort Simpson. Indian villages.

Maskelyne point. Work channel
Prescott and Stephens islands. Edye passage.

Eefuge bay, Tides ....
Brown passagi!. Qlawdzeet anchorage. Tides
Dundaa islani.'a. Zayas island. Channel islands.

Tsimpsean peninsula.
Tides -

Direc-

Climate. Tides.

GoBchen island.

Moffatt islands

408-410

410-417
417-419
419-420

420-425

425-428

429-431
431-433
433-435

Hammond
islands.

Cape Fox.
island

Cod bank.

rock. Main passage.
LbiOn entrance
Ijord islands. Nakat

Tides

Oriflanime passage. Gnarled

- 435-437

inlet. Tongaas islands. Wales

437-439
440

CHAPTER XII.

INNER WATERS. — LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Laredo sound. Lamimarks. Nab rock. North Bay islands.
Soundings. Directions. Laredo channel. Campania sound - 441-445
A 17498. C

,tS,»-

CONTENTS.

Page
Squally channel. Gil island. Lewis passage. Farraut island - 445-447
Union passage. Whale channel. Estevan sound. Campania island 447-449
Breaker point. Nepean sound. Otter passage. Principe channel - 449-451
Port Stephens. Mink Trap bay. Port Canaveral. Directions.
Tides 451-454

CHAPTER XIII.

OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Calvert island. Carrington reef. Hakai channel. Welcome harbour.

Tides. Directions ....... 455-458

Nalau passage. Queen's sound. Plumper channel. Hecate channel 458-459
Broken group. Bardswell group. Aristazable island. Gander

islands. Estevan island ...... 459-463

Banks island. South rocks. Bonila island. Ogden channel . 463-467

Spicer island. Beaver passage. Schooner passage ... 467-469
Alpha bay. Tides ....... 469

CHAPTER XIV.

PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS, AND PORTLAND CANAL.

Portland inlet. Somerville island. Portland point. Mylor penin-
sula. Nass bay ....... 470-474

Iceberg bay. Nass river. Observatory inlet .... 474-476

Salmon cove. Hastings arm. Alice arm. Portland canal. Current.

Climate. Supplies ....... 476-479

Dog fish bay. Halibut bay. Centre island. Pirie point. Round
point. Salmon river. Bear river. Anchorage - - - 480-485

CHAPTER XV.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

General remarkd. Prevost island. Cape St. James. Houston
Stewart channel, directions. Rose harbour. Moresby island

Carpentc '^ay. CoUison bay. Skincuttle inlet. Burnaby strait and
island. Skaat harbour ......

Juan Perez sound. Romsay island, &c. Remarks. Lyell island -

Darwin sound. Tides. Shuttle island. Echo harbour. Klun Kwoi
bay. Crescent islet. Laskeek bay. Richardson inlet. Tides

Dana and Selwyn inlets. Rockfish harbour. Cumshewa inlet, re-
marks. Skidegate inlet and channel. Directions. Tides

The Coast. Capes Ball and Fife. Rose point. Hecate strait.
Masset sound and inlets. Virago sound. Naden harbour

486-490

490-493
494-495

495-498

498-505

505-513

'wp^w^wiJiw"^*'!*

CONTENTS.

Parry paesage. North island. Cape Knox. Skidegate channel.

Inskip and Moore channels. Mitchell harbour. Tasoo harbour.

Supplies --•-....

Table of Positions ----...

Tide tables ---•--.,

Index ••-....
List of Sailing Directions, Ac, published by the Hydrographic

Department of the Admiralty, March 1888
List of Admiralty Agents, for the sale of Charts abroad

ZIU

Page

514-520
521-523
524-527
529-578

579-585
586

XfT THIS WORK THE BEARnrOS ARE AKXi MAOXVETZC,
EXCEPT WVERE MARKED AS TRVE.

THE BZSTAirCES ARE EXPRESSES XK SEA MZZ.E8 OF
60 TO A DEOREE OF KATZTTrBE,

A CAS&E'S XiEXrGTH IS ASSirMED TO BE E^VAl TO
lOO FATHOMS.

THE SOUVSnrCS are RBBVCBB to TUOW WATER OF
ORDXX7ARY SPRZira TZDES.

;>,

51'

Flans m Goletas Chan
& Broughtort Str 2061.
Duncan B. Qtuathiashi
Cbve,Nimpkish River.
BidlHT Slvusliarue B .
ii,Mverll': Alert 11.
GoHiardJJT Bearer Cove,.

PLajia on. Chart 580.

JuinhmJiniri^vm.

682 Queen Charlotte Sovind. _*'% ' ^t> ^--~
555 Goleta.v rj, ^ "•'*.. _,..*

^"^^^CJuu^^

Scott If

>^P»^

-t-..

128''

1''7"

126^^

125°

124°

123'

Hiiiaii allium

122*^

■ II UII ll

121°

56?

INDEX TO
AnMlRALTV PUBLISHED CHARTS

ALLUDED TO IN THIS WORK

llie- diagrams slww tlic. limits of the smaller scale, charta.

A ruanher against a.plojce thus :P. Simpson Z426 shows
. — tliatasepcTcUAploiThis piibUshed-withthat.Tiujnher. —

A stxir and. a number thus;Morris Ti. i462 ' indicates
thntaplanis givenontJvechartnumhered 1462.

For details of scales, prices &csee Admiral^ CaialognA.

Also shown, on Chart of Pajcifix\N9 787.

55°

54°

:53°

62°

^51°

Mmm

''^ -^.i

i. ,.>'■■/

50'

49"^

48°

47°

134°

li?

133°

Betii'er CrViJ: (jit'ye ti'.'
CameleonHVStfuirit'LCo\'&.
Ottjfir CoveMenzies B.

JWalshCcn&Trihiin&Bt

PriAeauJc Haven .

Plans ore Ovart 581.
SuqiiashAnch^DiLsky C.
Sunday HrFar&welLirr

Plans on Chart 714.
Osborrt&Mapl&Bays.

132"

13l«

130°

N? Yo -C-Bruish CohimbicbPilot.

600

716 ■O'^'^'

"W^

^r-

5»9

Q^f

583

589 E«P

e^-"

2631

129°

128"

M.u-ch 1888

■570 Qv'-^^ ^;J'\

716 ■'i CM'" -^ •

126'' Long. West 125° of Greenwich 124°

M,u-ch 1888

EngrcaecL hy- Dax'ics Sc Ctympanv

"rrKtsTTiF-ti

Ht^^m esiZi^^

THE

BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

GENERAL IIEMARKS. — WINDS, CURRENTS, CLIMATE,
METEOROLOGY. — PRODUCTS. — PASSAGES.

For later information respecting the lights which
are described in this work, seamen should consult
the Admiralty List of Lights in South America,
Western Coast of North America, Pacific Islands,
&c. This list is published early in the current year,
corrected to the previous 31st December,

» 1749'«.

the island under a Royal Charter granted in the reign of Charles II.

Products. — British Columbia contains extensive tracts of arable land,
and a large auriferous district. Gold was first discovered on Thompson
river in 1858. Coal is found on the mainland and on Vancouver island ;
the mines at Nanaimo and Departure bay, which yield bituminous coal,
being the principal places on the island. Anthracite coal is also found,
especially in Queen Charlotte islands. During 1870 about 30,000 tons
were exported; in 1881 the value of coal exported amounted to ^2,000,000,
and in 1 886 to ^97.3,000.

Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, peas, vegetables, and fruits flourish in
British Columbia. The fisheries are very rich, but are not yet developed .
whaling is, however, being carried on to a small extent, and the dog-fish
catch is steadily progressing. Salmon is abundant, the export of which,
chiefly in tins, constitutes one of the principal sources of wealth in the
* country ; it is also an important part of the food of the Indians.
A 17498. 4

Juii

jSt^j ,

■nHmt-- ■■i*-- 1 'I

)

.-j>aBam|freii — '-

,^f„ ,M i aV 0nma»^S!

«1»-1«« ■

THE

BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

GENERAL REMARKS. — WINDS, CURRENTS, CLIMATE,
METEOROLOGY. — PRODUCTS. — PASSAGES.

BRITISH COLUMBIA, a province of the Dominion of Canada,
entered the Confederation in 1871. It includes Vancouver island (first
constituted a British colony in 1849), also the numerous islands and
adjacent mainland of North America lying between point Roberts in the
strait of Georgia, and Portland canal. The average breadth of British
Columbia is about 250 miles, and the length of its coast line about 450
miles ; the area including Vancouver island and Queen Charlotte islands
is roughly estimated at 466,000 square miles.

Vancouver island became a Crown colony in 1858, and was united to
British Columbia (the mainland colony) as one colony under the name of
British Columbia in 1866. Previous to 1858 the island had been for the most
part in the hands of the Hudson's Bay Company, who held their lands in
the island under a Royal Charter granted in the reign of Charles II.

Products. — British Columbia contains extensive tracts of arable land,
and a large aiu'iferous district. Gold was first discovered on Thompson
river in 1858. Coal is found on the mainland and on Vancouver island ;
the mines at Nunaimo and Departure bay, which yield bituminous coal,
being the principal places on the island. Anthracite coal is also found,
especially in Queen Charlotte islands. During 1870 about 30,000 tons
were exported; in 1884 the value of coal exported amounted to ^2,000,000,
and in 1 886 to ^97-3,000.

Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, pefts, vegetables, and fruits flourish in
British Columbia. The fisheries are very rich, but are not yet developed .
■whaling is, however, being carried on to a small extent, and the dog-fish
catch is steadily progressing. Salmon is abundant, the export of which,
chiefly in tins, constitutes one of the principal sources of wealth in the
^country ; it is also an important part of the food of the Indians.
A 17498. A ■

GENERAL REjrAIlKS. [iNrnoDucTouY cnxr.

Hoiilican, soraewluit resembling the Hardine, cod, herring, halibut (of
enormous size), sardines, anchovy, haddock, and oysters arc also found.
The value of fish exported during the year 1H86 aggregated )K633,110,
the principal being tinned salmon, which amounted in 1884 to 0,193,968 lbs.
10 Great Britain alone.

The fur trade, which, until the year 1860 was entirely monopolized by
the Hudson's Bay Company, is considerable ; the value of the furs exported
in the year 18C9 being upwards of ,$210,000; in 1880 it was ^329,248.
Among the numerous fur bearing animals the principal are the sea otter,
marten, silver fox, black fox, and red fox.

The forests are of great extent, producing valuable timber, of which
the Douglas pine (commonly called Oregon pine), white pine, maple, Scotch
fir, and cedar are the principal ; the former, yielding spars 100 to 150
feet in length, and from 20 inches to 2 feet in diameter, is that principally
exported in large cargoes. Besides the above, the yellow cypress, poplar,
arbor-vitae, yew, oak, arbutus, alder, dog-wood, cherry, crab-apple, willow,
iind cotton-wood are found. The value of the export of timber in 1871
iiinountcd to about ;K250,000, and in 1880 to ^'200,178. Cattle, horses,
sheep, and farm animals thrive generally in nil parts.

The manufactures of British Columbia consist of saw mills and flour
mills, breweries, and distilleries ; they are rapidly increasing.*

Trade. — During the year 1870 the value of the exports amounted
to about ^210,000, exclusive of gold, which amounted to ^1,002,717; this
latter docs not include the gold carried out of the country by miners,
estimated at one-third of the above amount. In 1886 the amount of gold
dust and bars exported was valued at 1^746,690.

The customs duty for 1886 collected at Victoria amounted* to about
j^880,000, and the total value of the exports of British Columbia to
^2,885,823. The imports amounted to ;$3,950,308.

Population. — The population of British CohimbiM is to some extent
migratory; in 1871 it amounted to 10,586, exclupi o of Indians, and was
classed as follows : 8,576 whites, 462 negi-oes, aiid i,548 Chinese : but iu
1885 the population of Victoria alone reached to nearly 12,000, and
continues to increase with rapidity. The Indian population is estimated
at about 30,000 or 40,000 ; 17,000 being on Vancouver island, but they
appear to be gradually diminishing in numbers, consequent on tribal wars,
feuds, and the ravages of small-pox and measles, both of which diseases arc
deadly amongst the natives.

* There is regular communication by steamer between British Columbia and Japan,
China, Sandwich islands, New Zealand, Australia, San Francisco, and the ports in
Puget sound.

Missionary stations have been established at Alert bay, fort Rupert, Metlah catlah,
on the Skeena and Nass rivers, and at Massett in Queen Charlotte islands. •' i. '

«^

iNTRODucTORT CHAP.] TRADE. — POPULATION. — CLIMATE.

i'-

The Imlifins along the count hivo great ?«kill in the Imilding juhI
inaniigomont of cftiioes ; thoy are a polygamous race, and subsist chit>fly ])y
hunting and fishing ; those of southern Columbia are dark, and wear their
liair long, while those of the more northern districts are of a elearer tint.
The coast Indians live in substantial one-story dwellings of Kvc-hewn timber,
divided into soveial compartments, of which one is occupied by each
family. In the interior the houses or wigwams are made of skins, old tent
cloths, and mats ; in severe weather they take shelter in underground
liouses (circular pits) from 20 to 10 feet in diameter, and 8 or 10 feet deep,
covered over with a substantial earthed roof, with a 3-feet circular aperture
in the centre, forming the only outlet for the inhabitants and smoke.

RailWEys. — The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the heart of the
British possessions in the North American continent, and is 3,054 statute
miles in length between Quebec and Vancouver town in Burrard inlet, the
western terminus ; thr distance being accomplished in about 5 days 22 hours,
and trains leave daily from both places. The railway is in course of
construction from Vancouver town to English bay, and a branch line has
been made from port Moody to New Westminster.

A railway has also been constructed on Vancouver island, between
Victoria, Esquimalt, and Nanaimo, and there is now daily communication
between these places.

TELEGRAPHS. — Esquimalt is in telegraphic communication with
England through Canada, by way of Nanaimo and Burrard inlet. Also
through the United States, by way of Seattle.*

Earthquakes.— -svc pp. 40, 221.

CLIMATE. — The climate of British Columbia varies considerably
according to the locality ; in the southern parts and on Vancouver island
it is temperate during summer, the thermometer seldom, if ever, rising on
the hottest day above 80° Fah., or falling below 20° Fah. in winter :
and it may, in fact, be said that this region possesses the climate of England
without its humidity. In the central part of the province, however, the
drought, heat, and cold are greater, the heat sometimes being very intense.
It is, however, remarkably healthy both in summer and winter, there being
no malaria or ague cither during the hottest weather or in the dampest
localities. Generally speaking, the summers are dry at Vancouver island,
but with occasional showers ; the -yyiuters bring a good deal of rain, and
snow falls more or less each year.

In the northern part of the province along the coast the atmosphere is
excessively humid, and rain falls heavily.

* Submarine tlectric cables cross Juan de Fuoa strait from Clover point to New
Dungeness 5 and the strait of Georgia from Valdes island to point Grey.

A 2

GENERAL REMARKS.

[iNTRODUCTOUY CHAP.

The cliiuftte of the malulaud coast opposite Vancouver inland differs

somewiiat from that of the S.E. portion of Vancouver island. In summer

tlie temperatiue averages slightly higher, and in winter somewhat lower,

while the rainfall is greater immediately along the coast. The lower Fraser

valley (New Westminster district) does not receive in summer the cold

breezes from the Olympian mountains which blow across Victoria, nor

does it receive in winter so much of the genial warmth of wama ocean air.

As a general thing ice forms on the river for a short time and snow begins

to fall in January, and continues to do so intermittently till March, the

ground not being continuously covered with it. Observations for seven

consecutive years — 1874 to 18H0 — at New Westminster give the highest

maximum temperature, 92° in July, and the lowest 7° in Januarj', the

mean aunual rainfall being 59 "66 inches.

Taken as a whole, the climate, differing widely as it does in places, is
salubrious and invigorating. No miasmatic infection from ague-breeding
marshes taints the atmosphere whatever locality may be selected for a
residence, whether one of moist aw and equable temperature along the
coast, or the dryer and more varying one of the interior ; the climate will
be found hcaUhful, invigorating, and calculated to inspire activity, comparing
more than favourably with the same latitude on the Atlantic slope.*

ThGrmometGr. — At Esquimau, the highest summer temperature
averages 72° Fah. (in August), Juno, July, and August being the warmest
months of the year. The lowest temperature averages 23^° Fah., the
coldest months being December, January, and February. The greatest
daily range occurs in March, and the smallest in October.

The temperature on Vancouver island during summer is lower than on
tlie mainland, owing to the prevailing S.E. winds blowing from the snow-
capped mountains on the Americnn side and across the sound. The waiters
of the sound are peculiarly cold at this season. - ' • • ^^ • " ' '*. ■ ^ ' :

Bd.roiueter. — The barometric variations are neither
frequent, the range for the year averaging about 1 • 5 inches.

great nor

Port Simpson. — i'he climate at port Simpson is uncertain, no two
seasons being precisely the samr, or appearing to follow any general law.

During one summer fine weather may be experienced for six weeks at
a time, and on such occasions a serene atmosphere, with magnificent
sunsets, will be experienced. The following summer may prove one
of almost constant rain, with a sucees^sion of gales from the south-eastward.
Along the shores of Chatham sound the rainfall is not so great as within
the inlets. The temperature auring July and August 1869 varied from 57°
to 64°; during June, July, and August 1U68 it varied from 48° to 73°.

The West Shore, September 1884, p. 291 ; and 1887, p. 425.

INTRODUCTORY CHAv.] CLIMATE. — METEOROLOGY. 5

The mean temperature of the sea was 4° lower than the mean temperature
of the atmosphere at port Simpson during these p-riods, but at Methih
catlah and Nass bay it was 8° lower than the atmosphere, probably
due to the Influence of the cold water from the rivers whioh flow into
those bays.

Birds. — During the month of May humming birds in great numberc
arrive, and remain until the end of August. They are snared by the
Indian boys, and brought alongside for sale, suspended to sticks.

At the beginning of October, large flocks of wild geese, .ujd ducks, are
seen flying southward ; and the winter season is then assumed to have
commenced.

Temperature. — From observations taken iu 1868, during the four
months mentioned, the maximum and minimum registrations of temperature
were as follows :— June, 65°, 50° ; July 74°, 48° ; August, 70^ 54° ;
September, 64°, 44°.

Portland canal. — The sun's rays in August, between 9 a.m. and
3 p.m., were very powerful, and, reflected from the snow, caused occasionally
intense heat. When the sun wa.s obscured by the mountains, the atmos-
phere at once conveyed a sensation of chillness. During that month, just
before sunrise, the tiiermometer registered 32° Fahrenheit, water left in
basins within the tent lieing frozen during the night. The vapour
developed by the heat of the sun during the early portion of the day,
becoiiiing condensed on the mountainous shores of the inlet, usually fell as
a drizzling rain from 3 p.m. to about midnight.

Temperature of the surface water, within 20 miles of the head of
the canal, was 33". At that distance from the mouth of the Rear river
the water on the surface w&h fresh.

Queen Charlotte islands.— The climate of Queen Charlotte
islands and the off'-lyinj, Jslands of the coast of British Columbia is in-
fluenced by th*? warm body of water which washes their shores, and the
winter is less severe and the climr.te is milder on the islands than within
the inlets. The vapour arising from this body of warm water is condensed
upon the high vnountains which form the shores of the mainland, and falls
in drizzling almost constant rain so prevalent in these waters.

Ice.—Thc Fraser river is, as ar rule, frozen over at New Westminster,
from January to early iu March, during which time sleighs run to Langlcv.
The lakes in the vicinity are frozen over, and ice ^'orms at the head of the
several inlets where the water is comparatively fresh, but on the coast it
does .lot form sufiiciently thick to impede na^ijatiou.

GENERAL KEMARKS.

[introductory chap.

Witliiu the inlets on the coast, north of Vancouver's island, ice is formed
during the winter of from 8 to 12 inches in thickness, and occasionally
extends as far as 25 miles from the heads of the inlets.

The Skeeua and Nass rivers are frozen over during the winter, the
former as far as six miles below port Essington, and the latter, iu severe
weather, down to its mouth.

Rainfall. — The average rainfall appears to be about 55 inches ;
heavy rains generally occur in December and January-

The following Table shows the pi'ncipal meteorological features at
Esquimalt, Vancouver island, during the ^^''ars 1870 and 1871.

Month.

Barometer
(mean

Thermometer.

Tem-

Prevailing wlud.

perature

height).

Max.

Min.

of sea.

Jauuary

30-021

51-5

23-5

43 -'4

North & N.Ely.

February- -

29 '970

50-5

29-5

Easterly.

March

29-921

45-4

S.Ely. & Westly. -

Rainy mouth.

April -

30-037

61-5

43-5

48-2

S.Ely. & S.Wly.

May -

30-009

62-5

46-5

51-r

S.Ely. & Southly.

June -

29-989

52-5

53-2

S.Ely. & S.Wly.

Julv -

30-043

68-5

54-5

57-4

S.l;ly. to Westly.

AufTust

30-039

58-9

S.ii;iy. to Westly.

September -

30-018

55-4

S.Wly. variable -

Fogs during
latter part of
month.

October

30-037

60-5

45-5

49-1

Variable

Fogs and fre-
quent rains.

November -

30-059

40-5

46-7

Easterly. (N.E. to
S.E.)

December -

30-066

28-5

45-1

Easterly.

!P'^ 'l-S.— Juan de Puca strait.— Although fogs in this region
ir f such frequent occurrence as on the neighbouring coast of
i I'.ll' la (where they prevail almost uninterruptedly during summer,
ana as late as the middle of October), yet from August to November* they
orctir in Juan de Fuca strait, and are sometimes very dense over the
tntranco for .several days together. Tiioy are generally accompanied by
calms or very light winds from N.W., which renders them the more
dangerous to sailing vessels closing the land.

Coast north of Vancouver island.— Fogs are prevalent

especially during the summer months. The north-west winds which prevail
during that season, condense the vapour which arises from the compara-
tively warm water surrounding Queen Charlotte islands and the coast of

* Fogs were very prevalent in November, especially on ihe south shore of/uan 1'
Fuca strait. — Commander Edwards, R.N., II.M.S. Mutiite, 1884.

COLDEST WEATHER IN

MEMORY OF INDIANS

More ice at Mouth of Skeena

River Than for Many

Years.

^<^

, (Special Correspondence.)
Prinoe Rupert, Jan, 18.— The weather
on the northern coast still remains!
cold. The Indiana state that there has
nt,* ioeen a winter with such cold
weather within the memory of the
oldest Inhabitant, and steamship cap-
tains, who hav« navigated these
waters for fltteen years, say they never
saw the Ice at the mouth of the
Skeena river In such quantities as at
> resent.

After being Isolated In Port Esslng-
ton for ten days owing to the ice-
blockade, a small party of travelers
reached Prince Rupert or, rhursdixV on
the steamship Coqultlam, whlcn
brought them over from Claxton' Can-
nery. They had stopped off at Port
Esslngton intending to take the next
boat out, but the next boat never
came. Realizing that It might possi-
bly be weeks before another steamer
would reach the town, the little party
determined to walk out. With tho
river piled high with crunching cakes
of ice. e«c,.pe in that direction was
cut-oir, 1 shouldering their packs they

startei" - i ten mile mush over the
hill-. J <"u -ton, a point that is
U8i Is. ■; !;*. r.^m Ice and easily reached
by w ■-• ? uera. After beating their
way tfc. . • h *M& pathless woods they
flroii-- ^. .■i^^,ff ciaxton just in time
to cntch V.i ^ oquitlam which had for-
tunately called there for fresh water,
and were brought here tired and weary
but none the worse for their long
tramp.

The big bargo Georgian loaded with
two steam-shovelB, four pony loco-
motives and about 40 dump-cars In
tow of McKenzle Bros.* tug Escort No.
i ' ^a arrived from New Westminster.
^^fitj; tt>iiflt was consigned to Foley,
"iXfi ■' f. St«wart and will be used by
D. -.;!k;" Who has a piece of rail-

way •:!nsii action work near Porpoise
Harbor at the southern end of Katen
iHland. ,j^..»,ci It genera

EOROLOGi'. — FOGS. — WINDS. 7

Qce of north-west winds this vapour is dis-
jvith light winds, and especially with south-
Drth-west winds, it approaches quickly from
fog, or drizzling mist and rain,
at the entrances to the sounds during tlic
ion by the heat of the sun, the afternoons

i cause much inconvenience during the dry
[liment to navigation. In some seasons they
of Georgia to Portland inlet.

?UCa strait. — Within the strait of Juan
on, tho winds usually assume its direction
summer, the prevailing winds from N.W. or
an within the strait ; while the S.E. gales of

may be blowing within the strait, it fre-
tlie ib"asous blows heavily outside at the same
Ufa suddenly changes to that direction, from
ling the entrance, which makes that part of

between port San Juan and Bonilla point a
without steam power.

I prevail from S.W. and N.W.,* the former
the latter blowing fresh and with great regu-
August. In September and the early part of
icertain, and there is generally a great deal of

Is above 30 • 00 inches during summer ; should
torly wind Avith thick rainy weather may be
on and clearing up with a westerly wind as

or S.W., more liequently the former ; they
;obcr, and continue until the middle of April,
iceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy
ulually from East or E.S E. veering to the
ain and thick weather, the barometer falling
' becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly
h clear weather, but with frequent squalls of
rise immediately tho wind veers to S.W.,
! [y blows from 12 to 20 hours.

♦ H.M.S. Jiockei experienced light winds from S.E. to S.W., and calms duniig the
months of August and September.

GENERAL llEMAKKS. [iNTuonrcTOur chap.

Witln'u the inlets vu the- coast, iiortli of Vancouver's island, ice is fornie'l
(Inrini- tlio winter ol' from S to 12 inclios in thickne.-s, iui(i ocwisionally
oxfenils as far as 2.3 miles from the heads of the inlets.

The Skeeiia and Xa.ss rivers are frozen over dnring tiio winter, the
former as far as six miles below port Kssington, and the latter, iu severe
weather, down to its month.

Rainfall. — 1 1'<^ average rainfall appears to be about oo inches ;
heavy rains generally occur in December and .January.

The following Table shows the i)rineipal meteorological featuresi at
E>quinialt, Vancouver island, iluring the years 187<) and 1^71.

liaroiiK'ttT

' i. imoiiiL'tor.

Ti'iii-

:\ronth.

(iiifan

peratiirc

I'revailing wind.

ticiirliO.

Ma;

.iu.

of se:i.

.Taiiiiaiy

••JOMI^l

51 -0

23-;(

43 •4

N.irth .S. N.Ely.

Fibnuirv -

•_'!»• '.17(1

TiO ■ ■)

21I-5

Kastcrlv.

:\Iarcli ■ -

•2'J-'J2i

.V,t

45-4

S.Klv. k ^V^•^tlv. -

Rainy mouth.

AjTil -

30 -o:! 7

(', I • :,

•13:.

4S-2

.«^.K1^. .'V S.WIv.

.May -

•(OMKI'.t

02 • :>

■iC, ■ ,-.

:< 1 • 7

S.KlV. cSc Soutlilv.

June -

:2',<",l8'.t

r,8

,".2 • .-J

:)3-2

S.r.ly. .V S.Wly".

July -

30-01:!

G8-5

.>!•.'•,

57 '4

S.F.ly. to Wc-f^llv.

AuLTust

;iO-o:!;i

:^r^

.OS".)

S.F.ry. to NW-^tiy.

Sc'l)t(.'iiil)er -

:}o-oi8

fj.')

.■)0

h:,- 1

S.Wly. variable -

Fogs diiriiiij
latter |iart el'
month.

Oi'iobtr

3o'o;j7

(JO '.J

•l.VJ

4',f!

A'ariable

Ldg.^ ami lie-

N(iVcuibt.'r -

iiuent rains.

.'iO'O.v.i

r,\

■10 -5

n;-7

llasterlv. (N.K. to

.s.i;.)

Dtci ii)bcr -

30 ■()(•,(;

sit

28-5

4.-, • 1

Masterly.

FOGS.— Juan de Puca strait.— Although fogs i,i thi.s region
are n<jt of sueh frt.MjiK.nt ocemrenee as on the neighboring coast of
Calilurnia (where they prevail almost uninterruptedly during .sumuior,
and a.s late as the mid.lle of October), yet from August to Novemlnu-* they
occur in Jnan do Vwa >tiait, and are sometimes very dons^e over the
entrancr.for several days together. Tin y are generally accompaiue.l by
(■aln.s or very light win,ls iV.un N.\\'., which rcuder.s them the more
dan.uM;ro\is to sailing ves.scds closing tho land.

Coast north of Vancouver island.-Fogs a.o prevalent

e.i.eciaily dui;ng the sunnuer months. The norlh-wt-st wind.s which prev..il
during that season, condense the vapour whioh arises f.om the co.npara-
tiv(dy warm wat.-r surroumling Q„ee„ C!harlotte i.slan.ls au.l the coa.st of

* Fo,rs were very prevalent in Noven.ber. -,,e,.iail7;r^J,;;n^.;:;;;7;;;,;~
Fuca strait.-Cominauder Kdward.s, H.N., ll,M..S. Mutuu; ly^j.

•'l

'»"S *"«! J-JBUI iio^ ptiy^

„ ^ ''•'"At

ISTUODLCTOUT ciiAi-.] METEOllOLOG Y. — FOGS. — WINDS. 7

AiUHkii. During the provalenou of noith-wost winds this vapour is (li.>-
persed, hut during cahns or with light winds, and especially with south-
west^jrly winds succeeding north-west winds, it approaciu's quickly from
seaward in tho form of dense fog, or drizzling mist and rain.

At times fog will be found at the entrances to the sounds during the
forenoon, dispensing near noon hy thu heat of the sun, the afternoons
becoming clear and fine.

Smokes fi'om forest fiics cause much inconvenience during the dry
season, and are a great im[)ediinent to navigation. In some sf-asons they
have extended from the (lulf of Georgia to Portland inlet.

WINDS. -Juan do Fuca strait.— ^Vithin the strait of Juan
de Fuca, in the winter season, the winds usually assume its direction
either up or down, louring summer, the prevailing winds from N.W, or
S.W. take a westerly direction within the strait; while the S.K. gales of
winter blow fairly out.

Although a westerly wind may be blowing within tlie strait, it ire-
quently during (he change of tho seasons blows heavily (Uitside at the same
time from .S.S.W., or sometimes suddenly changes to that direction, from
a light easterly wind on opening the entrance, which makes tliat part of
the coast of Vancouver island between port San Juan and J3onilla point a
dangerous lee-shoro to a ship without steam power.

The coast winds in summei prevail from S.W. and X.W.,* the former
during flu- i-arly month?, and tlic hitter blowing fresh and with great regu-
larity during June, .July, and Augu-t. In Septinilier and the eai ly part of
October the winds are very uncertain, and there is gtuerally a great deal of
calm, gloomy weather.

The barometer usually stands above .30 '00 inches during sununer ; should
it fall to II!) IH) a south-easterly wind with thick rainy weatlier maybe
exiK'cted, but of short duration and clearing up with a woterly wind an
soon as the bannnetor rises.

The winter winds are S.K. or S.W., more frequi'ntly the former; they
set in towards the end of October, anil eonfinue until the middle of April,
S.E. gales are gc'ncrally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy
weather; they spring up gratlually from East or E.S.E. veering to tiie
southward, accompanied by rain and thick weather, the barometer falliu'f
rapidly; when the barometer becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly
to S.W. and blows heavily with clear weather, but with fre(iuent s(pialls of
rain ; the baroimtter begins to rise immediately the wind veers to S.W.,
from which (pnirter it generally blows from 12 to 20 hours.

♦ II. M.S. Uinki't, oxpfriciiwd light winds from 8.K. to S.W., iiud cnliiis duniig the
months of August and September.

GENERAL REMARKS.

[INTKODUCTOKY CIIAPv

The violence and duration of these S.E. gales is always proportioned to
the fall of the mercury; with the barometer at 29*50 a strong gale may be
looked for from tliis quarter ; it seldom falls below 29' 20, when very bad
Aveather is certain to follow. On two or three occasions in as many years
it has been known to fall to 28 "90. and has been followed by S.E. gales of
great violence.

A S.E, gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the baro-
meter above 30 '00 inches. On such occasions the wind has always been
preceded l)y calm, cloudy weather and raiu, with a high but falling baro-
meter ; such gales arc not violent and are of short duration.

S.E. gales are alw.iys accompanied by thick dirty weather, and rain ;
but they seldom continue from that quarter for more than 12 or 18 hours,
unless the barometer falls very low, and they almost always shift to S.W.

When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded by one from S.E.,
the barometer seldom falls ; it either remains stationary, when the gale
may be expected to continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will
gradually subside and fine weather follow. S.W. gales are accompanied
by heavy banks of clouds, with passing showers of rain, and sometimes
snow.*

The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 29'45,
and has been followed by no gale or bad weather, but on .such occasions
there has been a heavy fall of snow on the hills, and a sudden fall of
15° in the temperature.

A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals during the
months of December, January, and February ; it is always accompanied
by a high barometer (above 30'0), and at such times a continuance for
several days to,":ether of clear, cold, frosty Aveather may be looked for ;
the barometer on these occasions will sometimes rise as high as 30 "70, and
the fine weather will then probably last u fortnight or more.

Strait of Georgia. — The prevailing summer wind in the strait of
Georgia is from N.W., or the same as on the outside coast, and between
May and September it blows strong and steady, commencing about 9 a.m.

* I [.M.S. Shearwater in 1866 experienced a heavy S.W. gale lasting 48 hours
(31st Jauiun-y to 3rd February), weather thick and overcast, accompanied by heavy
squalls of sleet and hail, and falling barometer; the wind then shifted to N.W., from
which quarter it continued to blow with the same violence for 12 hctirs, the barometer
rising ; the wind then backed to S.W. and South, the barometer fell rapidly from
30'27 to 1!9'69, and the squalls were of great violence.

On the 5th and 6th February the wind veered to W.S.W. and W.N.W., continued to
blow heavily, but barometer rose, and atmosphere became clearer. On the 7th
the wind fell and shifted to the South, the weather again becoming thick, dirty, and
rainy, but the barometjr rose rapidly. This was followed on the 8th by a heavy gale
of 12 hours Juration, which commenced at S.W. and shifted to S. and S.E., the barometer
again falling to 29-80.— Commnnder T. Smith, R.N., H.M.S. Shearwater, 18C6.

. <

A.«

INTRODUCTORY CHAP,] "WINDS. JJ

find dying away towards sunset. These winds do not generally extend much
below point Roberts, among the Haro archipelago they become variable
and baffling, while in the main channels of Rosario and Haro the v/esterly
wind entering the strait of Fuca is deflected to S.W., and vessels
running up these channels with a fair wind almost always find it ahead
on entering the strait of Georgia. During winter there is a good deal of
moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, but gales from S.E. and S.W. are
frequent.

Coast north of Vancouver island.— The prevailing winds

during the summer on the coast noithwai'd of Vancouver island are from
the north-west, preceded during the earlier summer months by south-
westerly winds.

During the winter months S.E. and S.W. winds prevail.

Gales from the S.E, prevail at all seasons, and are more frequent and
severe than those experienced on the coast of Vancouver island. The
summer gales are of shorter duration than those of winter, and seldom last
more than 48 hours. At the fall of the year, gales lasting for 8 days,
from the S.E. have been experienced.

The strength of the summer winds depends greatly upon local circum-
') stances. Down the channels, which lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with

high land on both shores, they frequently blow with great strength. The
wind usually begins at sunrise, increases in strength throughout the day
until about 3 p.m., and then gradually declines towards sunset. The nights
as a rule, are calm during the summer months ; but, if the wind prevail
but slightly from the N.W. during the night, it will probably blow hard
from that quarter on the following day.

The barometer stands at about 30 "10 during the prevalence of IS.W.
winds. Gales from the south-east are usually preceded by a falling baro-
meter, but not invariably. A sensation of dampness in the atmosphere is
the usual precursor, and the reading of the wet and dry bulbs, though as a
rule not ditfering greatly upon this coast, more closely approximate each
other.

If during the sununer the barometer fail one tenth of an inch, especially
if it has been standi ig at higher than 30 '20, a gale from the south-esist is
probable.

These gales usually begin at E.S.E., veering to the southward with a
falling barometer ; the wind remaining at S.E. and S.S.E. for a long or
short period according to the season of the year. With a rising barometer
the wind shifts to the S.W. with violent squalls, and then hauling more
westerly blows itself out. A strong S.E. gale, of short duration, has been
experienced, during the summer, with the baiometer previously registering
30- 17 and falling to 30-12.

vt;t

F^5!

GENERAL REMARKS. [intkoduotory chap.

Queen Charlotte islands. — South-east winds are prevalent, aud
are almost invariably accompanied with thick rain ; those from the
opposite quarter generally bring fine weather. The weather is uucertain,
and cannot be depended on for 24 hours at a time.

The heaviest rainfall is local, taking place on the western mountains
of Queen Charlotte islands. It may often be noted that while heavy rain
is falling on the mountains the sky is comparatively clear over the strait
to the eastward. From this circumstance the north-east part of Graham
island is not subject to a heavy rainfall. Snow occasionally falls in winter.

CUHIliENTS. — A south-easterly current has been found to prevail on
the western coast of Vancouver island more or less throughout the year,
particularly from August to November, probably in some measure caused
by the N.W. winds which blow almost constantly on the coast during
the summer. This current joining the ebb tide out of Fuca strait has
been known to set vessels between 4 and 5 miles an hour to the south-
eastward, and during fogs there is great risk of being drifted on to cape
Flattery, or some of its off-lying dangers ; extreme caution should there-
fore be observed in entering the strait at such times, especially near the
fidl and change of the moon when the tides are at their strongest. With
winds from the south-eastward in the offing, however, this southerly set
has been checked, and near the coast a set to the northward experienced.*

TIDSS. — It is high water, full and change, at cape Flattery at noon,
the ebl) stream commencing to run strong at 2h. p.m. and continuing for
about 6 hours.

In the outer part of Juan de Fuca strait there is no very great
strength of tide; it varies from one to 4 knots, seldom so much as the
latter unless near cape Flattery; but when approaching the more con-
tracted part in the neighbourhood of the Race islands, which receives
the first rush of the pent up waters of the strait of Georgia, strengthened
and diverted by the labyrinth of islands Avhich choke up its southern
entrance, it is not surprising that eddies, races, and irregularities occur
that almost baflQe any attempt at framing laws which may not rather
embarrass than assist the seaman ; the result, however, of observations
continued throughout an entire year at Esquimalt, and partially on other
parts of the coast during three seasons, appears to warrant the following
conclusions, viz. : —

The flood tide sets to the northward along the outer coast of the
continent and Vancouver island. It enters the strait of Fuca at cape

* In July 1873, II.M.S. Repulse experienced a northerly set of one knot an hour
and S.E. winds, at 300 miles from cape Flattery. — Captain C. T. Curme, K,N.

II.M.S. Heroine in 1883 also experienced a current setting in the same direction. —
Navigating Lieutenant Ilatchj R.N.

■PIP

■pp

INTRODUCTORY CHAP.] CURRENTS. — TIDES.

Flattery, running with considerable velocity, sometimea 3 or 4 knot.s,
over Duncan and Duutze rocks ; it then turns sharply into the strait,
passing through the various channels among the Ilaro archipelago into
the strait of Georgia, and between cape Mudge and cape Lazo at a distance
of from 5 to 20 miles from the former, according to the phases of the moon
and the state of the winds, it is met by a flood from the northward, wiiich,
sweeping the western coast of Vancouver island, enters Goletas channel
and Queen Chai-lotte sound at its northern extreme, in lat. 51^ N., thence
southerly down the narrow waters of Johnstone strait and Discovery
passage, meeting the tide which enters by Fuca strait, and reaches about
midway between the northern and southern extremes of Vancouver island,
or close to the spot where the broad expanse of the strait of Georgia
merges into the narrow channels adjoining it.

On the western side of Vancouver island the tides are regular ;
flood and ebb of six hours duration, tlie times of liigh water on the
full and change at Nootka sound, and at the entrance of Goletas channel,
varying very little, and occurring near noon, the greatest range 13 feet.
Nor is any marked irregularity observable in Johnstone strait and
Discovery passage, except the not unusual circumstance that the ebb
stream continues to run to the northward for two hours after it is low
water by the shore, the water rising at the same time ; the ebb stream
being of seven hours duration, the flood about five hours.

The great and perplexing tidal iri'egularities may, therefore, be said to
be embraced between the strait of Fuca, near the Race islands, and cape
Mudge, a distance of 150 miles ; and a careful investigation of the observa-
tions made at Esquimalt, and among the islands of the Ilaro archipelago,
shows that during the summer months (May, June, and July) there
occurs but one high and one low water during the 24 hours ; high water
at the full and change of the moon haj)pening about midnight, and varying
but slightly from that hour during any day of the three months ; the
springs range from 8 to 10 feet, the neaps from 4 to 5 feet. The tides
are almost stationary for two hours on either side of high or low water,
unless affected by strong winds outside.

During August, September, and October, there are two high and two
low waters in the 24 hours ; a superior and an inferior tide, the high
water of the superior varying between Ih. and 3h. a.m., the range during
these months is from 3 to 5 feet, the night tide being the highest.

During winter almost a reversal of these rules appears to take place ;
thuf , in November, December, and January, the 12-hour tides again occur,
but the time of high water is at or about noon instead of midnight.

In February, March, and April, there are two tides, the superior higli
water occurring from Ih. to 3h. p.m. Thus in summer months the tides
are low during the day, the highest tide occurring duiing the night, and

GENERAL REMARKS. [introductory ciuv.

in winter the tides are low during the night, the highest tide occurring
during the day.

The ebb stream has always been found to run southward through the
Haro ui'chipelago, and out of Fuca strait for 2^ hours after it is low water
by the shore, the water rising during that time ; the ebb is stronger than
the flood, and generally two hours longer duration.

The tides during those months when two high and two low waters occur
in the 21 hours, are far more irregular than when there is only one
12-hour tide, and another anomaly exists, viz., the greatest range not
unf requently occurs at the first and last quarters, instead of at the full and
change of the moon.

Strait of Georgia. — 'The tides, although not nearly so strong as
among the Haro archipelago, yet run with considerable strength, as much
as 3 knots, particularly during the freshets of summer, when the Fraser
river discharges an immense volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly
direction over the banks, and almost straight for the mouth of Active pass.
This peculiar milky-coloured water is frequently carried quite across the
strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner channels washing the shores of
Vancouver island ; at other times it reaches the centre of the channel only,
forming a remarkable and most striking contrast witli the deep blue
haters of the strait of Georgia.

Hecate strait. — lu Hecate strait the flood tide comes from the
southward. In Dixon entrance, the ilood coming from the westward
round North island, sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for
Brown j)assage, spreading for about 15 miles round Ruse point towards
cape Ibbetson (Edye passage), where it meets the flood from the southward;
consequently between Rose point, cupe Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence
south-east 15 or 20 miles, the tides are irregular.

The course and rate of the tidal streams are not regular, being greatly
influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength.
Time of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m.

Between cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island the tides are the
strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much
so, that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.

k
t

PASSAGES.*

VANCOUVER ISLAND to VALPARAISO (Sail or
Auxiliary Steam). — In winter S.E. and s.w. winds prevail on

the coast of California as far south as about lat. 25" N., and vessels bound
from Vancouver island to Valparaiso at that season should stand down

* See Admiralty Atlas: — Wind and current charts for Pacific, Atlantic and Indian
Oceans. January 1879.

INTRODUCTORY CHAP.]

TIDES. — PASSAGES.

VANfOUVKR TO YOKOHAMA.

KELP will 1)0 Hcen on tlieHurfaee of the water, j^rowln^' on nearly p. 12.
every (lanj?er wit li a liotfom of rock or utoiies, durint,' tlio smiuner
and autnmn months; but (liii'inj^- tlic winter and sin'in,!,' this UHoful
marine ])lant \h not always to be seen, it should be an invariable
rule never to pasH thron.!,'h kelp. In general, ]>}■ kee])ing elear of
kelp yon keep elear of danger, but this must not prevent atten-
tion to the lead, as the rule Hometimes fails ; kelj) is always
a sign of danger, ami uidess tiie si)ot where it grows has been
carefully sounded, it is not safe for a ship to pass over it.
A heavy surge will oceasionally te.tr the Icelp away from rocks ; and
a moderate strouu will ride it under wati-r, when it Avill not be
seen. In passing on the side of a piitch of kelp, from whieh *he
stems stream away with tiie eui-reut, care shouhl be taken to give it
a wide berth, because the kelj) showing with a strong ti<le is on one
side of and not ovi^i- the rork:;. 'I'he least water will usually be
found in a elear spot in the middle of a thiek patcii of fixed kelj).

Ducie island, and stamliug to the south-east cross the meridian of Easter
island in about lat. 33° S. and the 100th meridian in, lat. 36° S. Calms,
and variable winds will be experienced in the vicinity of the 30th parallel
settling into the north-west quarter as the vessel gets more to the south-
ward, and on this account the 100th meridian should never be crossed
northward of lat. 3G° S. The 40th parallel should be reached before making
easting, thence steer to pass southward of Juan Fernandez and on to
Valparaiso.

In November 1872, H.M.S. Sci/lla went to the parallel of 41° S. before
making Easting, accomplishing a good passage of 46 days.

In SUmnier. — in summer a course further west may be puisued, pass-
ing the latitude of San Francisco in about 130° W. Thence a sailing vessel
should be kept further from the land to avoid the cjvlms and light variable
winds experienced at this season along the coast of lower California and in
the bay of Panama. After meeting the north-east trade wind in about lat.
30° N. the vessel should stand to the southward, making a south (true)
course on the meridian of 125° W. not only to avoid the calms above
mentioned, but also the hurricanes which during August and September
are liable to be met with eastward of that meridian.*

• Occasionally, but rarely, they are met with west of long. 125° W.

GENERAL REMARKS.

[introductory CHAI'.

i; ' ■!

in 'vinter the tides are luw duriug the night, the hi^houf ^m •
during the day.

The ebi. strc,
Haio luciiipelag
by the shore, th
the flood, and g(

The tides duri . .

in the 21 hoiin i ; . ; . • i '

12-honr tide, ar n ,

unf rcqnently occi f , .

change of the mo

Strait of C

among the Haro
as 3 knots, partic
river discharges a
direction over the
This peculiar mili
strait, and is some
Vancouver island ;
forming a remark
NV'ateis of the strait

Hecate stra^

souiliward. In D ^ „„„. ^..^ westward

round North island, ,tcis along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for
Brown passage, spreading for about 15 miles round Rose point towards
cape Ibbetson (Edye passage), where it meets the flood fi-om the southward ;
consequently between Rose point, cape Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence
south-oast 15 or 20 miles, the tides arc irregular.

The course and rate of the tidal streams are not regular, being [rreatly
influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength.
Time of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m.

Between cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island the tides are the
strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confused sen, so much
so, that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.

PASSAGES.*

VANCOUVER ISLAND to VALPARAISO rSail or

Auxiliary Steam).— In winter S.E. and S.W. winds prevail on
the coast of California as far south as about l;;t. 25° N., and vessels bound
from Vancouver island to Valparaiso at that season should stand down

■ I f V I / /

11, V qjaH

..... >-. / '''-

!i.i

* Sec Admiralty Atlas:— Wind and current charts for Pacific, Atlantic and Indian
Oceans. January 1879.

INTHODICIOnY CHAP.]

TIDES. — PASSAGES.

11,'/ qjaH

,. .■.••;|.i;t> '.' ■
.. iNCMttti' !■

I 'f* '111 '

.1 I .

\'\'

the coast, keeping iit about lOOmiloH from it, until near the latitude of Snn
Francifco, and thence gnuhially edge to tlic westward so as to pass westward
of and in sight of Ouadalnpe island, where in all probability the north-east
trade i/ind will be met with. A vessel should then steer to sight Clipperton
island, passing westward of it; and in about this latitude the northeast
trade wind will be lost. If steam power is available the belt of variable
winds and calms, which at this season on the meridian of 120° is 250 to
350 miles wide, should be crossed on a southerly course so as to pick ui)
the northern edge of the south-east trade winds in about long. 110° W. (well
to windward) ; but if depending on sail alone a vessel will probably not be
able to cross the equator much to windward of long. 118° W"., and every
effort should be made not to cross further than that (o the westward, as
the result would be that the vessel would not weather Elizabeth or Pitcairn
islands, in the vicinity of which light baffling winds from South to S.E.
'.vonld be experienced. The S.E. trade wind at this time of the year will
be in all probability met with between lat. o' N. and 3° M. The higher
latitude during the early winter months (November and December), and
the lower latitude towards March, when the ship should be kept full,
taaking, as nearly ns the wind will permit, a due south (true) course.

In about lat. ()' S, the trade wind generally becomes more easterly iu
direction, sometimes hauling as far round as E. by N. Cross the 20th
parallel (S.) in long. 120° or 121° W. in order to pass well to windward of
Ducie island, and standing to the south-cast cross the meridian of Easter
island in about lat. 33° S. and the 100th meridian in lat. 36° S. Calms,
and variable winds will be experienced in the vicinity of the 30th parallel
settling into the north-west quarter as the vessel gets more to the south-
ward, and on this account the 100th meridian should never be crossed
northward of lat. 30° S. The 40th parallel should be reached before making
easting, thence steer to pass southward of Juan Fernandez and on to
Valparaiso.

In November 1872, II.M.S. Sci/llct went to the parallel cf 41° S. before
making Easting, accomplishing a good passaf^s of 46 days.

In SUmnier. — in summer a course further we&t may be pursued, pass-
ing the Lititude of San Francisco in about 130° W. Thence a sailing vessol
should be kept further from the land to avoid the calms and light variable
wmds experienced it this season along the coast of lower California and in
the bay of Panama. After meeting the north-east trade wind in about lat.
30'^ N. the vessel should stand to the southward, making a south (true)
course on the meridian of 125° W. not only to avoid the calms above
mentioned, but also the hurricanes which during August and September
are liable to be met with eastward of that meridian.*

* Occasionally, but rarely, they are met with west of long. 125° W.

14.

GENERAL REMARKS. [iNTROwcTOKr chap.

The north-east trade wind will be lost at this season in lat. 11° or 12° N.,
und the belt of doldrums will be found to bo not so wide as during the
winter months. The south-east trade wind Avill at this season be met
with in about lat. 8" N., and if, as is most likely to be the case at tho
commencement, the wind be well to the southward, the vessel should atand
to the eastward in order to recover some of the ground lost by keeping
further to the westward in the north.-east trades. Endeavour to cross the
equator in from long. US'* to 120° W., and soon after crossing, the wind
will Iiaul more to the eastward, when stand to the southward to weather
Ducie island, and reach the 40th parallel before making easting, so as to
fall in with the north-westerly winds, as culms and variable winds are met
with north of that parallel. After passing the meridian of 90" W. haul
up for Juan Fernandez and thence for Valparaiso.

VALPARAISO to VANCOUVER ISLAND (Sailing).

— The best route to pursue wb i making this voyage is the same at all
times of the year. Leaving Valparaiso stand to the north-westward
passing to the Avestward of St. Felix, and crossing the 2oth parallel in
long. 83" W. After falling in with the south-east trade wind steer to
cross the equator in about 112° W. and cross the 122nd meridian in
lat. 10° N. After falling in with the north-east trade wind steer to cross
the 20th parallel* in long. 133" W. and the 30th parallel in long. 138" W.
standing to the westward as far as long. 140° \V. in about lat. 35" N.
Thence edge aAvay to the eastward, crossing the 40th parallel in long.
138 W., and make for lat. 47° N. long. 130° W. before steering direct for
Juan de Fuca strait. (Distance by this route 6,990 miles.)

PANAMA to VANCOUVER ISLAND (Sailing).-A

vessel unaided by steam power will experience cousideraMo difficulty and
delay iu getting out of the bay of Panama, owing to the light baffling winds
and calms which are met with there at all seasons. Between October and
AprU the prevailing wind in the gulf is from the northward ; for the
remainder of the year the wind hangs more to the westward, and land
and sea breezes are felt varied by calms and occasional squalls from south-
west. JNorthward of lat. 5° N., between the 80th and ilOth meridians, is a
region of calms and light winds varied by squalls of win(' and rain ; but
southward of lat. 5" N., between the coast of the mainland und the Gala-
pagos islands, west of the meridian of 80" W., the wind is between South

* In May and Jn.ne the north-cast trade wind is often very weak north of the
20th parallel, and irequently n belt of calm exists between the 20th and 30th parallels.
" We steamed from lat. 2\" 30' N. to lat. 32' 10' N., a distance of 668 miles, through a
" length and duration of calm greater than I can ever remember. On no occasion
" were the slight flaws of wind more than force 1 or 2." — Captain's Remark Book
II.M.S. SuHcj, May 1863.

INTRODUCTORY CIIAP.]

PASSAGES.

and West all the year round and, except between the months of February
and June, is fairly strong.

A vessel should, therefore, at all seasons make the best of her way to
the southward, keeping as nearly as possible on the meridian of 80° W.
unt.il lat. 5° N. is reached, when, if the wind will allow, make a south-west
course,* and sliould the wind be light and variable with rain make every
endeavour to get to the southward. When lat. 2° N. is reached, a vessel
may, betv/een June and January, stand to the westAvard carrying S.W.
winds as far as 85° W., after which the wind will haul to the southward
and south-eastward settling into the south-east trade wind. Pass north-
Avard of the Galapagos islands, keeping on the parallel of 2° N. until the
meridian of lt5° W. is reached, when edge away to pass westward of
Clipperton island, in the neighbourhood of -which the north-east trade wind
will be met Avith, Avhen stand to the north-Avest to cross the parallel of
20° N. in long. 120° W., after which pursue the same course as if bound
from Valparaiso. (See page 14,)

Between January and April, hoAvever, it is better to cross the equator
between the Oalapaeros islands and thp. iTi(uiiIn.nrl l-nafnr»i cfan/iinrr tn. tho

VANCOUVER to YOKOHAMA. -Full-powered steam- p. ir,.
vessels. — 'i'he tracks roconiniondcil iuv an follows: — From
Vancouver to Yokohama, during suinnuM- months : from Juan de
Fuca strait to cross the m<'ridiaii of I 10' \V. in lat. .'jTN., keeping on
that parallel to the liSO'h meridian, thonco steering to cross 1()()° K.
in lat. 48° N., 150^ F. in Int. 4:U° N., and to make the coast of Japan ^

at Kinknwasaii light in about Int. 88° '20' X. During winter months
the same track to the IHOth meridian as above, thence steering to
cross 1G0° E. in lat. 40^ N., \:)\f F. in lat. 441° N., passing ;,bont
50 miles south-e; stvvard of Skot;in, and io make tho coast of Japan as
before at Kinknwasan liglit. Tlicse mutes are usually northwanl of
the westerly winds, and in the track of the cold westerly cnrrent
throughout. From Yokohama to Vancouver, at all , asons, cross the
meridian of 151^° K m lat. 40° N., 100° E. in 44.^° N.. i70° E. in 47[/' N.,
and the 180th meridian in lat. 4'J° N. ; thence keeping on that p.irallel
to 140° W., and from there steering for the entrance of Juan do Fuca
strait. This route is usuallv in a warm easterly current throuiifhont.*

-« jL^\.Kj^t.t^t.J\jX %tit,A

May, inclusive, Avhen the prevailing Avinds on the vvest coast of Mexico are
i

* Should the wind be westward of S.W. stand to tho southward but if southward of
S.W. stand to the wcstM-ard.

t These directions are baned on the pa? saj^cs made by II. M. Ships Sidlfj, Bacchante,
Cameleoti, and Tribune, in the montliB of March, April, and May, and October to
Januarj- 1861-66.

* ,SV',' .'Vdmiralty charts : -Cape Oo^^ientl■^^ to Kodiak island, No. 7.S7 ; Fvainrlintka
to Kcnlittk inland, No. 2,|(>i) ; and North-wont I'acilii; ocean. iVo., No. 2.1.V.».

GENERAL REMARKS. [introductokt oHAr.

The north-east trade wind will be lost at this season in lat. 1 l°or 12° N,,
and the belt of doldrums will be found to be not so wide as during the
Avintcr months. The south-east trade wind will at this season be met
with in about lat. 8° N., and if, as is most, likely to be the case at the
commencement, the wind be well to the southward, the vessel should stand
to the eastward in order to recover some of the ground lost by keeping
further to the westward in the nortk-east trades. Endeavour to cross the
equator in from long. 118° to 120° W., and soon after crossing, the wind
will haul more to the eastward, when stand to the southward to weather
Ducie island, and reach the 40th parallel before making easting, so as to
fall in with the north-westerly winds, as calms and variable winds are met
with north of that parallel. After passing the meridian of 90" W. haul
up for Jtian Fernandez and thence for Valparaiso.

VALP.A.RAISO to VANCOUVER ISLAND (Sailing).

— The best route to pursue when making this voyage is the same at all
times of the year. Leaving Valparaiso stiind to the north-westward
passing to the westward of St. Felix, and crossing the 2olh parallel in
long. 83'MV. After falling in with the sonth-pnet tmri/^ —'—■'' ■'-
cross the equat- .v • r - /'. 1'' ■<'-ii' -•" '^-'" '

lat. 10° N. A ■' ' ' ■' ' . .,

the 20th paralli i

standing to th ^ ■^^. .- ■.■■

Thence edge a i ; i 'n

138 W., andn _ ,;.l ,

Juan de Fuca b ; ,

PANAMi ' ;'

vessel unaided j ■ ' '

delay in getting • . - ' "

and calms whic , ,, ..... i.-m i m

April the prevt . ( '> < i . r

remainder of th , . , ..d .' <

and sea breezes . . , • ■ > r

west. Norlhwai ,i '/

region of calm? .: ' ■

southward of hit , ,,

pagos islands, w

11 1:

♦ In May and June the north-cast trade wind i;;< often very weak north of the
20th parallel, and frequently a belt of calm exists iK^twcjn the 2()th and 30th parallels.
" We etcnmed from lat. 21" 30' N. to lat. 32" 10' N., o distance cf CG8 miles, through a
'■ length and duration of calm greater than I can ever reraeraber. On no occaision
" were the slight flaws of wind more than force 1 or 2." — Captain's Ilemark Book
H.M.S. Sutlrj, May 1863.

. i;/.'.U>ii1l

.1 1

i .ish'd"'- I"''
'.■ 1 'in lUii! ■ i'

It -OH! -•>!

; I i.iii:
1 ' I '"I ••

■//

L__^

,. , • III j-lV lt',i'>!! '
. . .-.I \\l\- '■- i-''' 'I

,-; ./ y.i .\'l '■

, . i:7..'.U/itliV' -
,1 ", iu\\ --111

1,111.' -iMliil' ' 'I-

.., ^'iiiyl 111 '.."■!■"'
] ,, ; '[[.'H')/-' •■■'■

I .ur^>li^■l •••^
'. '.",1 io ui;i' ' •
,, w,, ii-n;'.! -.li • "I

1 M''i .--.iii'l' .•'•■' '

INTRODUCTORY CHAP.]

PASSAGES.

and West all the year round and, except between the months of February
and June, is fairly strong.

A vessel should, therefore, at all seasons make the best of her way to
the southward, keeping as nearly as possible on the meridian of 80° W.
until lat. 5° N. is reached, when, if the wind will allow, make a south-west
course,* and should the wind be light and variable with rain make every
endeavour to get to the southward. When lat. 2° N. is reached, a vessel
may, between June and Januai-y, stand to the westward carrying S.W.
winds as far us 85" W., after which the wind will haul to the southwiird
and south-eastward settling into the south-east trade wind. Pass north-
ward of the Galapagjs islands, keeping on the parallel of 2° N. until the
meridian of 105° W. is reached, when edge away to pass westward of
Clipperton island, in the neighbourhood of which the north-east trade wind
will be met with, when stand to the north-west to cross the parallel of
20*^ N. in long. 120*^ W., after which pursue the same course as if bound
from Valparaiso. {See page 14.)

Between January and April, however, it is better to cross the equator
between the Galapagos islands and the mainland before stsinding to the
wostv/ard. Southwanl of lat. 1° N. the wind will be found to haul to the
eastward as the vessel leaves the coast. At this season vessels should keep
to the southward of the tMiuator until westward of long. 105° W., when
proceed as bcifore directed.

Auxiliary steam. — Vessels with au liary steam power bound from
Panama to Vancouver Island should stretch ulf on a W. by N. (true) course
(or, until the parallel of 12° N. is gained, a little more northerly), passing
the meridian of Acapulco in about lat. 13° N. The eastern limit of the
north-east trade wind is uncertain, but it will generally bo met with in
about long. 103° W., i.e., at about 300 miles from the land. When first
falling in with it the W. by N. course should be maintained, as by sfoering
more to the northward the trade wind will be found to hang to th( north,
and north-west. The meridian of 110° W. should bo crossed in lat. 14° N.,
after which steer to cross the 130th meridian in about lat. 30° N., when steer
Northward as far as Int. 10° N., or until the westerly winds are reached,
and thence gradually edge away for the port.f

VANCOUVER ISLAND to PANAMA (Sailing).—

Sailing >« jaels making this passage between the months of December autl

May, inclusive, when the prevailing winds on the west coast of Mexico are
ii

• Sliould the wind be westward of s.W. stand to the southAviird, but if southward of
S.W. staud to the wcBtward.

t These directions are based on the passnges made by H.M. Ships Siillrj, Bacchante,
Camel.on, iuA Tribune, in the nionihs of March, April, and May, and October to
Janrary 1861-66.

* N^r A''iinirvltyi-hiirbi :— Cape Corrient>'v t<i Ki-diak ixland, No. 7H7 ; Kainehiitka
to KiMliftk iHlautl, No. 2,4i;u ; and North-west J'aiiiic ocean, \o., No. 2.l*)!t.

GENERAL REMARKS.

[iNTUODUCTOKY CHAP.

from the northward, and the current favourable, should stand down the
coast of California, keeping about 100 miles off, and at about 150 miles off
the coast of Mexico, shaping a course to make the island of Hicaron, about
50 miles westward from Mariato point, which is a good landfall for vessels
bound to Panama from the westward.

Between the mouths of June and November, inclusive, when calms,
variable winds, and oftentimes hurricanes prevail on the west coast of
Mexico, sailing vessels should stand well out to sea after passing San
Francisco, shaping a course to cross the equator in about long, 104° W.,
thence standing on to the southward, until sure of reaching Panama on
the other (starboard) tack.

Uniform system of buoyage.*— Throughout the ports of
British Columbia all buoys on the starboard side of the channel, entering
from seaward, are painted rec^, and, if numbered, marked with even numbers,
and must be left on the starboard hand when passing in.

All buoys on the port side, entering from seaward ai-e painted black,
with odd member's, if any, and must be left on the port hand when
passing in.

Buoys painted with red and black harizontal bands will be found on
obstructions or middle grounds, and may be left on either hand.

Buoys painted with white and black vertical stripes will be found in
mid-channel, and must be passed close to, to avoid danger.

All other distinguishing marks to buoys are in addition to the foregoing,
and indicate particular spots ; a detailed description of which is given when
the mark is first established.

Perches with balls, cages, &c., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning
points, the colour and number indicating on which side they are to be
passed.

Spar buoys will in some cases be surmounted by a ball, which will
invariably be painted red, and will indicate that it is a starbojird buoy, and
must be left on the starboard or right hand when entering a channel or
harbour.

The rule for colouring buoys is equally applicable to beacons, spindles,
and other dny marks) so far as it may be practicable to carry it out.

♦ Noiice to Mariners No. 244 o. 1884. — Grig aally published at Ottawa, dated Ist
December 1879.

CHAP. I.]

CHAPTER I.
juax; de fuca and haro straits.

Variation, 22° 50' East in 1888.

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

JUAN DE PUCA STRAIT,* formed between the south end of
Vancouver island and the mainland of Oregon territory, has its entrance
between the parallels of 48° 23' and 48"^ 36' N., and on the meridian of
124° 45' W. ; from its geographical position it is liable to all those sudden
vicissitudes of weather common to high northern latitudes ; and in few parts
of the world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into
action than when entering it.

The brea*lth of the strait between cape Flattery,! its southern
point of entrance, and Bonilla point on Vancouver island (its northern), is
13 miles; within these points it soon narrows to II miles, and cames
this breadth in an easterly direction for 40 miles, or until Race islands bear
N.E. by E., distant 10 miles ; it then takes an E.N.E. direction for a farther
distance of 14 miles to the shore of the continent, or more properly Whidbey
island.

Between Eace islands and the southern shore the strait is 8 miles wide,
after which it immediately expands to 17 miles, leading northwards to the
British possessions by various channels among the labyrinth of islands-
known as the Haro archipelago, and southward to tliose of the United
States, by Admiralty inlet and Puget sound.

The coasts of Fuca strait are free from danger, and may be approached
safely within half a mile ; there is, however, a rock on which the sea
breaks lying nearly that distance off the west point of Crescent bay on the
southern shore. The strait in the centre is of great depth, but within
1^ miles of either shore there is generally under 40 fathoms, and on the
northern side when 5 miles eastward of port San Juan, 8 to 12 fathoms
water will be found within one mile of the shore, and, if necessary, vessels
may anchor. On both sides of the strait there are several anchorages or
stopping places which may be taken advantage of by vessels, either inward
or outward bound, when meeting with adverse winds ; those on the southern
side, before reaching the harbours of Admiralty inlet, are Neeah and Callam
bays, port Angelos, New Dungeness bay, Washington harbour, and port

* See Admiralty charts : — Vancouver island and adjacent sliorcB of British Columbia,
No. 1,917, scale, m = 0'15 of an inch ; and Juan de Fuca strait.No. 1,911, scale, OT-0'a9
uf an inch.

f Flattery was the name given to this cape by Cook in 1788 j but Vancouver, in 1792,
gajs it was known to the natives bj the name of Classet.

A 17498. B

JUAN DE FUOA AND HARO STRAITS.

[chap. I.

Discovery ; on the northern side, before rounding the Race islands, are
port San Juan, Sooke inlet, and Beclier bay, after which excellent
anchorage may be always obtained with westerly winds.

On the northern, or Vancouver island shore of the strait, the hills rise
gradually and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great
elevation ; on the southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad moun-
tains known as the Olympian range, rise more abruptly and vary in
elevation from 4,000 to more than 7,000 feet ; but though exceedingly
grand in their rugged outline, they present no very marked summits as
seen from the strait nor any great variety in their features.

LIGHTS. — The strait of Juan de Fuca is fairly lighted. On the
island of Tatoosh, close off cape Flattery, is a Jived white light of the
first order, elevated 162 feet above the mean level of the sea, and should be
visible in clear weather from 18 to 19 miles. A vi\\\ieflashing light, visible
in clear weather at a distance of 19 miles, is also exhibited from cape
Beale, distant 13 miles westward from Bonilla point.

At Ediz hook. New Dungencss, and Admiralty head on the southern
shore, and on Smith or Blunt island, at the eastern end of the strait, are
also excellent lights ; Avhile on the northern side is iXw flashing light on the
Race islands, Fisgard island light at the entrance of the port of Esquimalt ;
and the fixed white light on Discovery island ; thus after making the light
of cape Flattery, there will only be an interval of about 16 miles from
losing sight of it, until sighting that of Race islands ; and from the latter,
Ediz hook, New Dungeness, and Esquimalt lights are visible.

SOUNDINGS.— Between the parallels of 48° and 49° the 100 fathom
bank extends for 32 miles off shore, and for 5 or 6 miles on either side of
the parallel of 48° 30', which passes through the centre of Juan de Fuca
strait, no greater depth than 55 fathoms is found at the distance of 40 miles
from the ontrance. Steering for the strait within these limits of latitude,
viz. A few miles on either side of 48° 30', from 55 to 60 fathoms will be
carried for 20 miles, the bottom fine dark sand, sometimes varied by gravel
and small stones, when it will deepen to 80 and 90 fathoms, generally
muddy bottom, for a farther distance of 10 miles; a vessel will then be
within 8 or 10 miles of the strait : if to the northward of 48° 30' the water
should shoal to 36 and 40 fathoms rocky or gravel bottom ; if to the south-
ward it will continue deep and will increase to more than 100 fathoms,
when within 8 or 9 miles of cape Flattery.

The outer edge of the bank is rather steep, falling from 90 to 150
fathoms and Jien no bottom with the ordinary line. There is one
peculiarity which should not pass unnoticed ; the deep channel of over
100 fathoms, which runs through the centre of the strait, on entering
the ocean is deflected to the southward, probably vowing to the superior
strength of the ebb stream and the southerly current, and a zoae of deep

CHAP. I.] SOUNDINGS. — CAPE FLATTERY. — TATOOSII ISLAND. 19

water about 3 miles in width, with from 140 to loO fathoms, oxtoncls
ju that direction to the 48° parallel ; between it and the shore, a distance
of about 8 miles, the depth decreases suddenly to 30 fathoms fine dark
sand, and immediately outside it from 67 to 80 fathoms will be found.

CAPE FLATTERY, or Classot, is a remarkable point of land,
distinctly seen at a distance of 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to
a thickly wooded mountain nearly 2,000 feet high, with an irregular
shaped summit, and falling again at the distance of 3 or 4 miles to
the eastward. When seen from tho southward or south-west it has the
appearance of an island, being separated by a stretch of low land from hills
of the same or greater elevation, which rise again immediately southward
of it.

On a nearer view, the headland itself, with its wild off-lying rocks over
which the sea is almost constantly breaking, presents an uninviting appear-
ance ; it is a rugged sea-worn cliff of no great elevation, rising gradually
to its more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the
cape the coast trends E. by N. J N. for 4 miles to Neeah bay, and
though no dangers exist half-a-mile from the shore eastward from the
cape, there is generally a heavy swell with irregular tides, and vessels are
by no means recommended to approach it within one mile.

TATOOSH ISLAND, lying half a mile W.N.W. from cape
Flattery, is a steep, almost perpendicular rocky islet, bare of trees, and
100 feet high, with some reefs extending a short distance oV its western
side ; the lighthouse known among seamen as cape Flattery light, stands
on the summit of the island, which with its outlying reef is the most
western portion of the United States.

LIGHT. — From the above lighthouse (which consists of a keeper's
dwelling of stone, with a white tower rising above it, surmounted by
an iron lantern painted red, its lieight being 64 feet above the summit of
tho island), is exhibited a fixed white light of the first order, elevated
162 feet above the mean level of the sea, and in clear weather should
be seen t. om a distance of 19 miles. Vessels from the southward will
make it betore being up with the Flattery rocks.

A sector of red light of 7° 15' is shown from the lighthouse between
the bearings of S.E. \ S. and S.S.E. | E., covering Duncan and Duntze
rocks.

SOUNDINGS.— A bank, with^ depth of Ki fnthomH, in reported p. l!>.
to exist in a i)().sition situiitod about N.W. by W. \ W. Mf litilcH from
cape Flattery lightliouse. II. M.S. Swijl'mre in 188l> obtained a
sounding of 20 futhonis in this vicinity. t

oi^gv,,

* See plan of Duncan rock on Admiralty chart No. 2,531 ; scale, m = 2 inches.

t Renmrk Imok, Lientonant E. Loah. [t.M.S. Sirifl.vi,r, \t^X\). S,r A.liniriilt.v
chart :— .Iiian do Fueo Htrait. No. I .'.'1 1 .

JTJAN DE rUOA AND IIARO STRAITS.

[CIIAP. I.

Discovery ; on tlie northern side, before rounding the Race islands, are
port San Juan, Sooke inlet, and Becher bay, after Avhich excellent
anchorage may be always obtained with westerly winds.

On the northern, or Vancouver island shore of the strait, the hills rise
gradually and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great
elevation ; on the southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad moun-
tains known as the Olympian range, rise more abruptly and vary in
elevation from 4,000 to more than 7,000 feet ; but though excec<lingly
grand in their rugged outline, they present no very marked summits as
seen from the strait nor any great variety in their features.

LIGHTS.— The strait of Juan de Fuca is fairly lighted. On the
island of Tatoosh, close off cape Flattery, is a Jived white light of the
first order, elevated 162 feet above the mean level of the sea, and should be
visible in clear weather from 18 to 19 miles. A \\\\\ic flashing light, visible
in clear weather at a distance of 19 miles, is also exhibited from cape
Beale, distant 13 miles westward from Bouilla point.

At Ediz hook, New Dungeness, and Admiralty head on the southern
shore, .«nd on Smith or Blunt island, at the eastern end of the strait, are
also excellent lights ; while on the northern side is t\\G flushing light on the
Race islands, Fisgard island light at the entrance of the port of Esquimalt ;
and the fixed white light on Discovery island ; thus after making the light
of cape Flattery, there will only be an inierval of about 16 miles from
losing sight of it, until sighting that of Race islands ; and from the latter,
Ediz hook, New Dungeness, and Esquimalt lights ai"e visible.

SOUNDINGS.— Between the parallels of 48° and 49° the 100 fathom
bank extends for .32 miles off shore, and for 5 or 6 miles on either side of
the parallel of 48° 30', which passes through the centre of Juan de Fuca
strait, no greater depth than 55 fathoms is found at the distance of 40 miles
from the entrance. Steering for the strait within these limits of latitude,
viz. A few miles on either side of 48° 30', from 55 to 60 fathoms will be
carried for 20 miles, the bottom fine dark sand, sometimes varied by gravel
and small stones, when it will deepen to 80 and 90 fathoms, generally
muddy bottom, for a farther distance of 10 miles; a vessel will then be
within 8 or 10 miles of the strait : if to the northward of 48° 30' the water
should shoal to 36 and 40 fathoms rocky or gravel bottom ; if to the south-
ward it will continue deep and will increase to more than 100 fathoms,
when within 8 or 9 miles of cape Flattery.

The outer < ' i', .: i, ,■ ■' •• i '

fathoms and i
peculiarity whi
100 fathoms, '
the ocean is c

IM'

:'.r i

'Uii

iv hiilt tii ^ffffoiJuit •><; \p ^rtilmiit

strength of the ebb stream and the southeriy current, and u zone ot deep

CHAP. I.] SOUNDINGS. — CAPE FLATTERY. — TATOOSII ISLAND. 19

x^f

if.'iii-'jiiti H ui i«iz').'<

water about 3 miles in width, with from 140 to loO fathoms, extends
in that direction to the 48° parallel ; between it and the shore, a distance
of about 8 miles, the depth decreases suddenly to 30 fathoms fine dark
sand, and immediately outnidc it from 67 to 80 fathoms will be found.

CAPE FLATTERY, or Classet, is a remarkable point of land,
distinctly seen at a distance of 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to
a thickly wooded mountain nearly 2,000 foet high, with an irregular
shaped summit, and falling again at the distance of 3 or 4 miles to
the eastward. When seen from the southward or south-west it has the
appearance of an island, being separated by a stretch of low land from hills
of the same or greater elevation, which rise again immediately southward
of it.

On a nearer view, the headland itself, with its wild off-lying rocks over
which the sea is almost constantly breaking, presents an uninviting appear-
ance ; it is a rugged sea-worn cliff of no great elevation, rising gradually
to its more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the
cape the coast trends E. by N. | N. for 4 miles to Neeah bay, and
though no dangers exist half-a-mile from the shore eastward fiom the
cape, there is generally a heavy swell with irregular tides, and vessels are
by no means recommended to approach it within one mile.

TATOOSH ISLAND, lying half a mile W.N.W. from cape
Flattery, is a steep, almost perpend icidar rocky islet, bare of trees, and
100 feet high, with some reefs extending a short distance off its western
side ; the lighthouse known among seamen as cape Flattery light, stands
on the summit of the island, which with its outlying reef is the most
western portion of the United States.

IiIGHT. — From the above lighthouse (which consists of a keeper's
dwelling of stone, with a white tower rising above it, surmounted by
an iron lanteni painted red, its height being 64 feet above the summit of
the island), is exhibited a Jixcd white light of the first order, elevated
162 feet above the mean level of the sea, and in clear weather should
be seen from a distance of 19 miles. Vessels from the southward will
make it before being up with the Flattery rocks.

A sector of red light of 7° 15' is shown from the lighthouse between
the bearings of S.E. ^ S. and S.S.E. | E., covering Duncan and Duntze
rocks.

Pog signal. — A steam fog whistle is sounded for eiffht seconds at
intervals oi Jifty-tioo seconds, during thick weather.

Duncan rock* lies one mile N.W. | N. from Tatoosh island ; it
is a few feet above water, but the sea always breaks over it. There is deep
water between it and the island, but vessels should not take the passage,

♦ See plan of Duncan rock on Admiralty chart No. 2,531 ; scale, m ^ 2 inches.

t Remark l)ook, Lieutenant E. Leah, [l.M.S. Sn-iftxinr, 1SS<.»,
chart :— .Tiian do Fncn strait, No. I .'.>! 1 .

Sir Afliniraltv

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[cnxp. 1,

unless carried hy tho tide Into such a position as would cause them to incur
dan";er in endeavonrin" to avoid it.

DuntZO rock, on which is a depth of 3 fathoms, lies about one
<iuartcr of a mile N.W. \ N. from Duncan rock, and the pea frequently
breaks on it. The cross sea which is created in this neighbourhood
during bad weather strongly resembles heavy breakers, extending a con-
sider! ible distance across tho strait. Sailing vessels are recommended not
to approach the lighthouse on Tatoosh island nearer than 3 miles. In the
immediate neighboui hood of cape Flattery, and among these rocks, the
tides are strong aid irregular.

The COAST douthward from cape Flattery trends S.S.E. for 25 miles,
the land being mountainous and thickly wooded. At the distance of 11
miles are the Flattery rocks, a group of remarkable, bare, rugged islets, the
outer rock lying 2| miles from the shore. At 12 miles from them in the
same direction is a remarkable square white rock, nearly one mile from the
shore, which, when the sun's rays are reflected on it, is particularly con-
spicuous. From this rock the direction of the coast is S.E. for 21 miles
to Destruction island, and is fronted by numerous wooded islets and rocks
extending about half a mile from the shore.

Between Destruction island and cape Flattery, a distance of 45 miles,
the depths vary from 15 to 20 fathoms at 2 miles off shore, until northward
of Flattery rocks, when the depth somewhat increases.*

Destruction island i» l^ miles long, it is narrow, and lies nearly
parallel with the coast at the distance of one mile from it. It has st^ep white
cliffy shores, is over 100 feet high, and covered with grass, but no trees >
in the channel between it and the shore is a depth of 12 fathoms.

DIRECTIONS. — Vessels from the southward or westward bound for
Fuca strait, except the coasting steamers which all carry pilots, should
make cape Flattery ; there is no inducement to hug the coast, on which a
long rolling swell frequently sets, and this swell meeting the south-
easterly gales of winter, causes a confused sea. The cape and its ofF-lying
rocks should not be approached within a distance of at least 3 miles, as
the tide occasionally sets over Duncan and Duntze rocks with great
velocity (page 11) ; the southerly current should also be guarded against,
(page 10), an additional reason why these dangers should not be too
closely approached. It is equally necessary when either entering or
leaving the strait to avoid the coast of Vancouver island between port
San Juan and Bonilla point, when there is any appearance of bad weather.

It is recommended to pass at the distance of at least 10 miles from
the coast, unless working to windward against a fine northerly wind,

* See Admiralty chart : — Cape Mendocino to Vancouver island, No. 2,531 ; scale,
» 0*07 of an inch.

OUAP. I.]

THE COAST. — DIllECTIONS.

which is froquontly found during summer, when it may be safely
approached w thin 3 miles or less.*

To vessels making the strait in bad weather it will be more desirable
to run in and seek shelter than to remain outside. If thojand has been
made cither to the southward of cape Flattery or on the Vancouver
island shore within a moderate distance of the entrance, or if the latitude
can be relied upon within 2 or 3 miles, it will be nxlvisable to run for the
strait. The powerful light on Tatoosh island will, unless in very thick
weather, or fog, be seeu from a distance of 15 miles, and as soon as a
vessel is actually within the strait she will have comparatively smooth
water, with sufficient sea room, and may run boldly up the centre for the
Race light, or if preferred, by the assistance of that on Tatoosh island,
maintain her position in the strait. It is to be remarked, that when Tatoosh
island light is brought to bear to the westward of W.S.W., it becomes
shut in by the land about Neenh bay, and that Race island light becomes
obscured by Beechey head when brought to bear eastward of E. by N. ^ N.
therefore, when either of these lights are obscured, by being shut in by the
land before mentioned, the distance from either coast will be accurately
judged, and in the latter case a ship will be getting too close to the
northern shore.

Coming from the westward with a heavy westerly or north-west gale,
thick weather, and uncertain of the latitude, it would be prudent to lay
to at not less than 30 miles from the entrance of the strait, or on the
edge of the bank of soundings. These gales seldom last more than 12
hours, and if they veer towards the S.W. the weather will clear, and a
vessel may immediately bear up for the strait.

With a S.E. gale it is recommended to close the land, as smoother water
will be obtiiined, and the bank of soundings off the Vancouver island shore
will give a ves.sel pretty accurately her distance from the land. Gales
from this quarter sometiujes continue in the winter season for 30 hours,
and when a vessel strikes soundings on the edge of the bank in 90
fathoms, and carries them into 60 she may put her head to tlie S.W., and
will have plenty of room for drift.

It is of great importance in making the strait during bad weather to
strike the outer edge of the bank of soundings, as the ship's distance
from the land will then be accurately known. It has been already
observed (page 18) that after running 20 miles eastward the depth

* Ships nt'iiring the strait in the night, or iu thick weather, should be certaiu of
their latitude ; and as rocks lie some distance off the coast to the southward of capo
Flattery, and it is therefore dangerous to approach, it is safer to be in error to the
northward than to the .southward. The coast of Vancouver is comparatively bold,
the bank of soundings extends a considerable distance from the land, and the light on
cape Beale is visible for a distance of 19 miles. The current that is usually found setting
across the entrance of the strait to the S.E. should be particularly guarded against.

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[CIlAl*. I,

increases from 55 to 80 and 90 fathoms, which latter depths, if the lead
has not been previously kept going, might be mistaken for the outer edge
of the bank.

Should a sailing vessel be overtaken by one of those dense f'og.^ which
sometimes hang over the entrance of the strait (page 0) she should not
close the land, but stand olf suiliciontly far to avoid being set by the
southerly current too near oupe Flattery, If a steamer has made the
land or light ou Tatoosh island, and is certain of her jiosition, she
should get the northern or Vancouver island shore aboard, when, with
the assistance of the chart and lead, she may feel her way in.* When
8 or 10 miles eastward of port San Juan there is anchoring ground in
12 fathoms one mile from the shore, anil if the fog is very dense a stranger
should anchor ; it must be remarked, however, that not unfrc]uently the
weather is clear a few miles within the strait while the entrance is totally
obscured.

NEiiAH BAYt ^^ formed between Koikla point and Wyadda
island ; the latter, half a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is narrow
and covered with pine trees. Koikla point is 4 miles E.N.E. from the
lighthouse on Tatoosh island. The bay offers a safe and convenient
anchorage to vessels meeting S.W. or S.E. gales at the entrance of the
strait, and is sheltered from W. by S. round by south to N.E. The western
shore is steep and cliffy, but a reef extends for more than one cable's length
off Koikla point, and a sand-bank which dries extends off one-quarter of a
mile at low water from the shore abreast the cliffs. The head of the bay
is a low sandy beach, on which the surf generally breaks. On the eastern
side of the bay off the south-west side of Wyadda island, a rocky ledge and
shoal water extend for 3 cables, and the holding ground is not so good on
the island side.

AucllOrSlgO. — A good berth will be found in Neeah bay, in 6 fathoms
sandy bottom, with the outer point of Wyadda island bearing N.E. by N.,
and Koikla point W.by N. ; a short distance within this position kelp grows
in large patches all over the bay, and some care is necessary in selecting
a berth. Large sailing vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms a little
outside the above bearings, in the centre of the bay, with the outer point
of the island bearing N.E. by E.

Directions. — A. vessel should leave this bay on any indication of a
noi'th-east wind, and if too late, and unable to weather Wyaddr^ island,
she may, with the assistance of the chart, run between it and the main ;
the passage is 2 cables in breadth, and the least water 21 feet ; she must,
however, be c.ireful to avoid the ledge off the south-west end of Wyatlda,

* Sailing vessels, during gales from S.W. or West, lie to under the south shore of the
strait insidi; Neeah bay, in preference to anchoring in Neeah bay.
f See Admiralty plan of Neeah bay on chart No. 1,911 ; scale, 7h = 2 • inches.

CUM'. I.]

NEEAH HAY. — CALLAM BAY.

and in Imuling out should give tlio custern Hide of tlmt island a berth of at
least one (juartor of a mile. Vessels have ridden out north-west gales close
to the south-cast end of Wyadda in 6 fathoms water, but it is more prudent
to get out into the btrait at the commencement of the gale. During ntrong
westerly or south-west galesi, or after they have been blowing outside, a
considerable swell rolls into the bay, which renders it at such times
a somewhat disagreeable though not unsafe anchorage ; small vessels may
go close in and got smooth water, even among the kelp which grows in
4 and 5 fathoms water.

Tides. — It is liigh water at full and change in Neeah bay at Oh.
33m. ; springs rise 7^ feet, neaps rise 6| feet.

CALLAM BAY lies 15 miles E. J S. from Neeah Imy, the
intervening coast being nearly straight, and the shore bold. The only
remarkable feature is Klaholoh (Seal rock), 150 feet high, lying a short
distance off shore at 2 miles eastward of Wyadda island. If a vessel
reaches aa high as Callam bay, and meets an easterly or south-cast wind,
she may obtain temporary anchorage and shelter in the centre of the bay
in from 8 to 10 fathoms. Callam bay is easily recognized by Slip point
its eastern bluff, which is the western termination of a bold coast ridge,
about 1,000 feet in elevation.

The COAST ft'om Callam bay continues in the same direction fot
8 miles to Pillar point, so called from its terminating in a bare columnar-
shaped rock, somewhat remarkable, from its contrast to the general charac-
•teristics of the country (thickly wooded from summit to water line), where
few objects present themselves by which vessels may accurately fix their
positions. The coast on the east side of this point forms a small bight,
in which there is a considerable stream and an Indian village, and then
trends E. by N. with a gentle curve to Striped peak; a small river, the
Lyre, enters the strait just eastward of a low point 7 miles westward from
the peak.

Striped peak is rather remarkable from a landslij> occurring down its
face ; at 1^ miles westward from the peak, and one-third of a mile off the
west point of Crescent bay (merely an indentation) lies a rock on which
the sea breaks ut low water : this is the only danger which occurs on the
southern side of the strait. Westward from this, kelp grows a short
distance from the beach on the somewhat sheltered part between Striped
peak and Pillar point, and here the depth of water at one mile from the
shore varies from 8 to IG fathoms ; westward from Pillar point it deepens
to 40 fathoms, at that distance.

FRESHWATER BAY, at 3 mues eastward from Striped peak,
between Observatory and Angelos points, is nearly one mile deep, and more
than 2 miles wide in an east and west direction. The two entrance points
are E. by N., and W. by S. of each other, and Avithin this line the depth

jsmmaa

JUAN DE rUCA AND HAllO STRAITS.

[cuAr. I.

varies from 6 to 12 fathoms. Observatory point has several rocks
short distance off it ; tlie western side of the bay is a high bold shoi-e.
Angelos point, the eastern entrance point, is low ; the river Ealwha flowing
through it, forms a delta, and has caused a bank with a depth of water
on it varying from 2 fathoms close in shore, to 10 fathoms at the distance of
one mile. Vessels may anchor within the line of the points in from 6 to 9
fatuoms.

PORT ANGELOS, oi False Dnngeness, is 7 miles eastward from
the east point of Freshwater bay, tlie intervening coast forming rather a deep
indentation to the southward, oif which as little as 3 fathoms water is found
nearly one mile from the shore. The north side of the port is Iwunded by
one of those low narrow sand or shingle spits which are a characteristic
feature of the country ; this spit, which h named Ediz hook, curves from a
higli bluft in an E.N.E. direction for nearly 3 miles, and forms a large and
good harbour. On the north, or spit hide, the water is deep, varying from
15 to 30 fathoms; but southward of a line drawn through the cenf''c there
is excellent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms in any part of the i)ort.
Tlie outer part of the spit is steep-to, and may be rounded close to, after
wliich the port extends for 2^ miles in a westerly direction, by more than
one mile in breadth. Although open to easterly winds, they do not blow
home. The lighthouse on E<iiT hook is a good guide to the entrance.

TVator. — Fresh water . to be obtained from streams on the south side
of the port.

LIGHT. — From a square white lighthouse, situated at about 80 yards*
from the extremity of Ediz liook is exhiljited at an elevation of 42 feet
above the sea, ajt.red white light, which should be visible in clear weather
from a distance of 12 miles. The Inntcrn is painted red.

Fog signal. — During tliick or foggy weather, a bell is sounded once,
at intervals '^i fifteen seconds, from a position 108 yards N.W. by N. from
Kdiz hook lighthouse.

Directions. — TIk; spit is so low that at times the sea 'vashes over it,
itud it would be impossible to see it at any distance, were it not for the
liglithouso on it. At a disttmco of more than 2 miles from the shore
14 fathoms will be found N.N.W. from that part of the spit which joins
tlie mainland ; nTid at night vessels should not go within this depth.

NEW DUNGENESS BAY.* -The shore from False Dnngeness
gradually curves to tlie N.E,, and about 8 or 9 miles from Ediz hook,
another long low narro\ir sand spit covered with grass stretches from the
bluff shore in a general N.N.E. direction for 3J miles, forming tbj north-
western side of tlie road.stead of Xew Dnngeness. A shoal of 2 fathoms
extends N.N.E. for half a mile from the end of the point, and a heavy tide

* Sec Admiralty chuit : — Admiralty inlet and Puget sound, No. 1,947 ; scale, m
of un iucb.

0-3

cuAiM.] PORT ANGELOS.— NEW DUNGENESS BAY.

rip runs over it at the change of the currents.* On the inside, one mile from
the eastern extremity, another narrow sand spit stretches 1^ miles south-
ward towards the main shore, forming a large inner shoal bay with a narrow
opening, through which the water passes as over a rapid ; at low tide abreast
this point is a small stream, on the western side of which is a bluff 60 feet
high, and upon it is a largo village of the Clalum Indians.

The ^hore eastward of tho stream is low, swampy, and covered with trees
and brush ; it forms the southern or main shore of the roadstead, and off it
are extensive mud flats, which are bare at low water for over half a mile,
and extend as far as Washington or Budds harbour ; shoal water exists for
some distance outside those flats. About 20 fathoms water are found one
quarter of a mile south from the lighthouse point, the depth regularly
decreasing across the bay, with a soft tenacious muddy bottom.

W^ater. — Fresh water may be obtained in abundance at the above
stream ; but boats must obtain their supply at low tide, and come out when
the tide has sufficiently risen.

LIGHT. — From a lighthouse, the upper half of which is black, and
the lower half white, surmounted by a red lantern, situated at about
one-sixth of a mile from the extremity of the point, is exhibited, at aa
elevation of 100 feet above the mean sea level, a fixed white light, which
should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 16 miles.

Fog signal. — During thick or foggy weather, a fog-whistle is sounded

from a position 130 yards north-eastward from the lighthouse, in the foUow-

' iiig manner. A blast o^ six seconds duration, succeeded by an interval of

twelve seconds, then a blast lasting three seconds followed by an interval of

thirty-nine seconds, completing a minute.

Electric telegraph. — An electric submarine cable extends from
New Duiigeness to Clover point (Vancouver island) ; there is a smal
house on the spit, one mile S.W. of the lighthouse with the words, " cable
crossing," on it.

Anchorage. — The usual and best anchorage in New Dungeness bay
is to bring the lighthouse to bear about N. ^ W. half a mile distan*^, where
8 fathoms, sandy bottom, are found one-third of a mile ott' the mud flat.
With the lighthouse bearing N.W. by N. three-quarters of a mile distant,
the same depth and bottom are found, the nearest point of the south shore
bearing South, distant 1^ miles, and the mud flat distant three-quarters of a
mile in tho same direction ; from this position a vessel can readily get
under weigh and clear the point. A south-east wind drawing out of the
strait blows directly into this harbour, but the bottom will hold any
vessel with good ground tackle ; the only difSculfy will be toge* tho tuichors
out of the mud after riding a couple of days to a gale.

* A red buoy is moored about 11 cables N.N.E. \ E. from New Dungi-ncsH light-
house, at the extreme of tho shoul ext<>ruliug from the point.

>iMS>Z.

SHSSSTil

sEsnnn

JUAN DE FUCA AND HAKO STEAITS.

LunAP. I.

Tides. — It is liigb water, full aud change, at New Dungeness at CI:.,
and the rise is o feet.

WASHINGTON HARBOUR. — The coast from New
Dungeness trends to the S.S.E. for nearly 7 miles, and forms a deep in-
dentation, in the western corner of which is Washington harbour, and in
the eastern port Discovery. The entrance to the former is almost closed
by a long sand spit extending from the eastern side, leaving a narrow
channel with only 2 fathoina water, which deepens within to 13 fathoms;
therefore, as a harbour, it is of little importance when there are so many
good ones in the neighbourhood,

PORT DISCOVERY,* the harbour where Vancouver anchored and
refitted his ships, and from whence he commenced his exploration of these
regions in May 1792, is an extensive inlet running in a southeily and
south-east direction for 6 miles, with an average breadth of H miles ; the
general depth of water is from 20 to .30 fathoms, but an anchorage may be
had on the west side 1^- miles within the entrance in 15 fathoms, close to
the shore. The water shoals rapidly towardg the head of the port to
10 fathoms, aud a mud flat extends about one mile from its head ; this,
indeed, is the general feature of all the deep water inlets on these coasts,
unless the ri^ers or streams which flow into them are of suflicient magni-
tude to cause an adequate scouring power, and more equally distribute the
deposit which they bring down with them.

Protection island lies immediately off the entrance of the port, and
shelters it from north-west winds. The north side of the island is shoal
for half a mile off, and there is a 3~fathom patch, named Dallas shoal, bear-
ijig N.W. distant 2 miles from its north point; reefs extend also off the
east, west, and south points for half a mile, but there are clear deep
channels between it and the main ; that to the southward being one mile
in breadth, and that to the eastward 1^ miles.

A black liuoy is moored on the extremity of the reef, extending from the
south end of the island.

Directions. — A spit extends a short distance off Clallam point, the
western i)oint of entrance ; and in working up, some of the prominent
points should not be closely approached, as the soil breaking away from the
neighbouring cliffs has formed a bank off most of them.

ADMIRALTY INLET. — At ll miles E.N.E. from New
Dungeness light, is the entrance to Admiralty inlet, between Wilson point
on the south and Partridge point on the north, the latter a remarkable sloping

♦ It is high water, full and change, in port Digcovery at 2h. 80m. ; springs rise

7 feet.

A hiack and red buoy Ih moored on the e«lge of the shoal extending from Middle
point, 2j miles N. by E. f E. from cape George, the north-enst entrance point of port
Discovery.

-4

n!IBMHMMHIIMHI—.!ii

mmmmmisis!

SXSSSBSS

CHAP. I.] POUT DISCOVERY. — .IDMIRAJiTY INLET, &C'.

ciiff of a whitish colour ; anil here commences that extensive and sino;ulnr
series of iuUviid navigation, which penetrates the continent in a general
southerly direction for neJirly 90 milcH. These waters were first explored
by Vancouver, and have since undergone a more detailed examination by
the United States Government.*

Buoy. — A red buoy is moored on the edge of the bank that extends
from Partridge point,

LIGHTS^.— Wilson Point.— From the top of the light-keeper's
dwelling (white) situated on Wilson point is exhibited, at an elevation of
53 feet above the sea, a ^'^-erf white light, which should be feen in clear
weather from a distance of 12 miles. |

Pog signal. — A steam-whistle giving a blast of eight seconds
duration each minufe is sounded in thick or /oggy weather from Wilson
point.

Admiralty Head. — Also from a light-keeper's dwelling* (white) 41
feet high, situated on Admiralty head, which forms the inner eastern entrance
point of the inlet, and bears N.E. by E. distant 3;^ miles from Wilson point,
is exhibited, at an elevation of 108 feet above the sea, ? Jixed white iight,
which should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 16 miles.

PORT TOWNSHEND lies just within the entrance to Admirnity
inlet, and is the port of entry for Washington territoi-y. Vessels leaving
Fuca strait have fi'equently. v.'hen overtaken bj/ a westerly gfvle, been
compelled to bear up and seek shelter in it. Although a safe harbour, from
it« great extent it is subject to a disagreeable sea during strong winds, and
v/ith a strong south-easter iauding is frequently im[)racticable, and a
dangerous sea for boats gets up.

The entrance is between Wilson and Marrowstone points,^ the latter
bearing from the former E.S.E. distant 3|f mjhjs. At 1^ miles south-east
from Wilson point, and on the same side, is Hudson point, the distance
between which a'ld Marrowstone point is 2 miles; and ix'twecn these two
points is more prtiperly the true entrance to the po'-t, which takes a S.S.W.
direction for 2 miles, and then S.E,. by S. for about 3 miles, the average
breadth l>eing nearly 2 miles. The genera! depth uf -s-ater is from 9 to 1.5
fathoms good holding ground; soft mud when within Hudson point.

* A ridgo about one mile wide (Partridge bank), extending Z\ miks in a W.X.W.
iind E.S.E. direction, is situated W.N.W. of Partridge point, its eastern end being
\\ miles from tho point. The shoule-st part, n umall patch of 2| fathouim, lies 3J^ miles
\V. by N. \ N. from Piinridge point, and 83 miles S.S.E. \ E. from the lighthouse
on Smith island. Dcpth.s of 4 and 5 fathoms extend one milo to the north westward
of the patch, and the water then deepens to 7 fathoms, this latter depth beinfif found at
a dibtance of 1\ mile* from Smith island ; to the south-ciistward of the patch the depths
are 7 and 9 fathoms.

A hlarh buoy is moored on the north-western edge of the patch of a J fathoms.

t A new nil stake light is exhibited on the point, S.S.'.3. \ E. distant 1^ milcf. from
Wilson point lighthouse.

A new nd buoy has been moored S.E. ] S. \\ miles from Wilson point lighthouse.

X Marrowstone, Hush, No point, West and Pull points are all very low spits.
Commander Edwards, R.N., H.M.S. Mutine, 1884.

mam

wmm

JUAN DE FUCA AND HAEO STEAITS.

[CHAr. I,

Wilson point is low, with sand hillocks on its extreme ; a slioal spit
extends for nearly half a mile off it, and vessels are recommended to give
it a berth of nearly one mile in rounding ; the tides are strong, and when
blowing fresh, a heavy ripple occurs in the neighbourhood.

Anchorage. — At lialf a mile within Hudson point there is good
anchorage off the houses on the western side of the port, in 10 fathoms at
half a mile from the shore. During winter^ S.E. gales are not unfrequent,
and sliips are recommended at this season to anchor farther oil shore ;
the low sand hummock on Xhe extreme of Wilson point, just in line with,
or shut in by the high part of Hudson point, bearing N. by W. ^ W., is
a good berth in 12 or 14 fathoms, about one mile from the shore.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port Townshend at
3h. 4f)m.; springs rise 5^, neaps 5 feet.

HOOD CANAL. — Southward from port Townshend, Admiralty
inlet continues as a broad deep channel as far as Foulweather bluff distant
10 miles: here a branch named Hood canal takes a nearly due south
direction for 40 miles, suddenly turning to the north-east for a further
distance of 10 miles, and terminat ng in Lynch cove. The average width
of this inlet is only a little over one mile, but the water in it is very deep,
there being depths of from 50 to 60 fathoms throughout its greater part.
The main arm of Admiralty inlet continues in an E.S.E. direction for
about 8 miles from Foulweather bluff,* it then trends S.S.S. for a distance
of 22 miles to the north end of Vashou island, wher^ a branch named
Colvas passage takes a S. by E. direction for II miles to the entrance
of thfj narrows leading into Paget sound.*

Point No point. — At 3J miles E. \ S. from Foulweather bluff is
point No point, a low spit jutting out from the foot of the cliffs.

LIGHT. — From a white lighthouse 20 feet high, situated on point No
point, is exhibited, at an elevation of 27 feet above the sea, a Jixed white
light, which should be visible in clear weiither from a distance of 10 miles.
The lantern and dome are painted red.

Fog signal. — A bell is sounded trom the outer end of No point spit
during thicker foggy weather ; it is struck by machinery giving a single
blow every ten seconds.

Port Madison is situated on the western sliore of Admiralty inlet nt
about 11 milen S.S.E. from point No point, and on tlie southern shore of
an op'u bay in which the water is deep.

West point, — On the east shore of Admiralty inlet, about 4 miles
E.S.E. from port Madison, is low and projects to the eastward.

* A hiach buoy h moored on the ixtreiuitj of the shoal extending about hah" a mile
to the northward from Foulweather bluff.

;

■Illillillill

CHAP. I.]

HOOD CANAL. — PORT SAN JUAN.

LIGHT. — From a square, white, light-tower (with red lantern) situated
on the extremity of West point is exhibited, at an elevation of 20 feet above
the sea, a, flashing light showing alternately rerl ond white every ten seconds^
which should be visible in clear weatlier from a uiotanoo of iO miles.

Fog Sigual. — From a frame buildi ig, one story high, painted white
with a brown roof, situated between the lighthouse and the keeper's dwelling,
a steam trumpet is sounded during thicK or foggy weather giving blasts of
five seconds duration with intervals of t\"pnty-five seconds.

Directions. — Vessels from the nortirvard after passing point No
point at about one mile distant, should steer S.E. ^ S. until West point
lighthouse bears S. by E. J E., when alter course to S. by E. After passing
the lighthouse, which should be given a berth of one-third of a mile, bring
it to bear N. by E., when steer E. \ S. for Seattle harl>our (Duwamish bay),
passing Magnolia point at the distance of at least half a mile.

TaCOma, « town which is rapidly increasing in importance and size,
is situated on the south ,«ide of Commen"?ment bay, nt the head of
Admiralty inlet. It is the terminus of a trans-continental railway, and
a new pier has been built for the shipment of wheat.

The anchorage is very indifferent. PI.M.S. Caroline anchored in
26 fathoms, sand, with the railway pier bearing West, and Brown point
N.N.W. ^ W. about three-quarters of a cable from the edge of the bank,
on approachirjg which the water shoals rapidly.*

PUGET SOUND.~The inlet, from Defiance point is known
as Puget souni) ; its general direction is southerly and south-westerly
for upwards of 30 milesj and is split up into numerous channels and inlets
towards its head, in most of which there is deep water.

At the head of the sound is the town of Olympia.

LIGHTS.— 5ct' footnote.!

Fog signal. — On Robinson point (Maury island), Admiralty inlet, a
steam whistle, which gives blasts of six seconds duration at intervals of
fifty-four seconds, is sounded in thick oi- foggy weather.

' North shore of PUCA STRAIT.— PORT SAN JUANJ

is the first anchorage on the north sliore within the entrance of Fuca
strait. The opening, which is remarkable from seaward, is seen for a
considerable distance, and appears as a deep gap between two mountain
ranges; the centre of the entrance bears N.N.E. \ E. distant 13| miles
from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island, and as the light is visible from the
anchorage it is not difficult to enter or leave during night time.

Owen point, Ht the western entrance to the port, has at a little more
than one cable's length from it, a low fiat rock named Owen island, awash
at high water.

» Lieut. U. ff. I'owell, K.N., H.M.S. Caroline, Juiy 1887.
f At UiUtprj point, a white 8(ako light i.s exhibited.

At Robinson point, a rvd stake light is exhibited,

At Brown point, a white stake light is exhibited.

On uoith side of Eagle inliind, a white stake light is exhibited.

On DofiQemyer point, a white stake light is exhibited.
X See plan of port San Juau on Admiralty chart No. 1,911 ; scale, twl inch.

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[chap. I.

Observatory rocks, off the eastern entrance point, are high pinnacles
with two or three trees growing on thoin, and some smaller rocks off, the
outermost of which lies li cables from the shore. At 4 cables within
these rocks and IJ cjiblos from the shore is another reef partly out of water,
named Hammond rocks.

Tlie entrance points lie E. A N. and W. ^ S. from each other, distant nearly
1 j^ miles; the port runs nearly straight for 3h miles in a N.E. by N.
direction, and carries its breadth almost to its head, which terminates in a
round beach composed of muddy sand. Gordon river enters the port
through the north end of this beach, and Cooper inlet penetrates its
southern ; very small coasters may enter them towards high water, and
find depth and shelter within.

On the north side of the port some rocks and broken ground extend for
one mile witliin Owen point, and nearly 2 cables' lengtiis from the shore ;
one rock, awash, lies 4 cables N.E. ^ E. from Owen island, and is distant
2| cables from the shore.

Anchorage. — I'le port is entirely open to sonth-Avest winds, and a
heavy sea rolls in when a moderate gale is blowing from that direction;
and though it is possible that a vessel with good ground tackle would ride
out a gale if anchored in the most sheltered ])art, it is by no means recom-
mended to remain* with any indication of such weather, but to weigh im-
mediately, and if outward bound seek shelter in Necali bay, the entrance of
which lies 10.^ miles S. by W. from port San Juan. There is a convenient
depth of water all over port San Juan, from 6 to 9 fathoms, the bottom fine
muddy sand •, when within three-(|uarters of a mile of the head it slioals to
4 fathoms, and here in heavy gales tlie sea breaks ; a flat runs off 3 cables'
lengths from the liead. In the outer part of the port there is generally a
swell. Good anchorage will be found about \\ miles from the head, with
Owen island bearing S.W., and Adze head E.S.E., in 7 fathoms.

Tlio hill named Pnudoru peak does not show as a peak within the
port.

The COAST. — From port San Juan the shore of Vancouvor island
trends East to Shcrringham point, distant 24 miles, at. ' presents no very
remarkable features ; the country is thickly wooded, and the land rises
to a considerable elevation. Providence cove, accessible only to boats, lies
3 miles «;astward from San Juan ; at the distance of 4^ miles farther east,
in a small l)igi»t, is a stream named Sombrio river. The river Jordan, a
considerable stream, is 6^ miles westward from Shcrringham point ; between
the latter and Sombrio river, depths of from 7 to 10 fathoms will be found

• H.M.S. Trilmne lout both bower ftucUors hero, in 1863, in consequence of a S.W.
jjale Buddenly springing up.

■■

CHAP. I.]

PORT SAN JUAN. — SOOKE INLET.

at one inilo from the shore ; and oflf the river Jordan the latter depth
extends for more than 2 miles.

Eastward from Shcrringham point the shore curves a little to the north-
ward, and at the distance of 4^ miles is Otter point ; the points on this side of
the strait are not remarkal>le nor easily distinguished unless close in shore,
some of their extremes are partially bare of trees. From Otter point, the
entrance to Sooke inlet is E. by N. ^ N. 3| miles, the intervening coast
forming rather a deep indentation named Sooke Imy, in which vessels may
anchor in fine weather, at something more than half a mile from the shore
in 8 fathoms.

Caution. — Vessels running or working up the strait at night, should
bo carel'ul iiot to get so near the north shore as to shut in Race island light
by Beechey head.

SOOKE INLET* is a remarkable sheet of water, the outer entrance
to which, between Parsons and Company points, is little over half a mile in
breadth, and the bar has only a depth of 14 feet on it at low water. Within
the bar, the entrance proper, between Whiffin spit and Entry ledge, has 7
fathoms water, but is only 70 yards across, with a sharp turn and strong
tide. Thence a narrow and tortuous channel 2i miles in length, with
a general north direction, leads to a beautiful hind-locked basin, nearly 2
miles in extent, east and west, and one mile north and south, with
a depth of from 8 to 16 fathoms all over it. Independently, however,
of strong tides, and several sharp turns, which vessels would have to
make in entering, the breadth of the deep channel seldom exceeds half a
cable, and is consecpieutly only adapted for coasting vessels or small steamers,
uidess at considerable inconvenience and loss of time.

Gold was discovered on Leech river in 1864, and on the east side of the
entrance to Sooke inlet is a copper and ii'ou mine. There are also
indications of coal in the district.

AncllOrage. — Vessels may anchor outside in 10 fathoms half a mile
off the entrance ; or, if necessary, run inside Whiffin island, where there is
sufficient space to anchor; care must, however, be taken as to the deptlis on
the bur, and to the state of the tide in the entrance proper, where the ebb
at springs runs about 3 or 4 knots.

"Whiffin spit is low, gravelly, and connected with the western
entrance; its eastern point bears N.N.E. distant three-quarters of a mile
from the centre, between the two entrance points ; it must be rounded
close, as a reef (Entry ledge) lies only half a cable eastward from it. On
rounding the point drop the anchor at one cable's longtli within, in 8
fathoms water ; hero there is a space of deep water 2 cables in extent.

* See Admiralty plan of Sooke inlet, No. 1,907 ; scnle, m = 4 inches.

JUAN DE FTICA AND HARO STllAITS.

[chap. I.

Tides. — During the winter months the rise of tide in Sooke inlet is
said to be 10 feet, and it remains high water during the whole of the day.
At the entrance the flood and ebb streams run one hour after high and
low water at the rate of 3 to 4 knots during springs. It is high water, full
and change, at 2h. Om.

Secretary island, 120 feet high, small and wooded, lies 4 cables
S.E. by E. from Possession point, and one mile south-eastward from Sooke
inlet. There is a depth of 16 fathoms between it and the main shore, from
which it is distant 1^ cables, and from it Beechey head bears E. ^ S.
distant 2^ miles, with a bold steep shore between, and deep water close-to.

BECHER BAY.* — Beechey head is a bold wooded cliff forming the
west entrance point of Becher bay ; Church point being the eastern one.
The breadth of the entrance is a little over one mile, and off the eastern side
are several small wooded islands, named Bedford islands. The depth of
water at the entrance varies from 20 to 50 fathoms rocky and irregular
bottom ; at three-quarters of a mile within in a northerly direction are
Wolfe and Frazer islands, with some small islets off them ; between these
two islands, which lie East and West from each other, Frazer being on the
eastern side, is the channel 4 cables wide to the anchorage ; it then takes a
north-easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, where anchorage in
10 fathoms water may be had, with the centre of Frazer island bearing
S.S.W. distant one quarter of a mile.

AncIlOrage. — Becher bay cannot be recommended as a good
anchorage ; it affords no great shelter with southerly or westerly winds,
and vessels outward bound had far better wait a fair wind in Parry bay,
to the northward of Race islands.

DIRECTIONS. — Vessels bound up the strait, intending to go
outside the Race islands, should pass the land about Beechey head at the
distance of 2 miles.

Steamers intending to take the Race passage may pass Church point
at the distance of about half a mile, and keep the land aboard about that
distance until up with Bentinck island, when the latter should be closed
and kept within one quarter of a mile, or just outside the kelp.

Caution. — The passage between Bentinck island and the Vancouver
shore is choked with rocks, and strong tides set both inside and outside.

RACE ISLANDS, i cluster of low, bare rocks, the outermost of
which lies one mile S.E. from Bentinck island, at the south-east point of
Vancouver island, occupy more than half a mile in extent, north and

* See Admiralty plan of Becher ami Pedder bays, No. 1,906 j scale, m= 4 inches.

CHAP. I.]

BECHER BAY. — RACE ISLANDS.

south, and the same cast and west. Great Race, the outermost rnd largest,
is 1 ^ cables in extent and 28 feet high ; the others are smaller, a few
feet above liigh water or awash. The tides among them run from 5 to 7
knots, and during bad weather, heavy and dangerous overfalls and tide
races occur. Great Ilaco should be given a berth of one mile and a quarter,
at which distance depths of from ^O to .50 fathoms will be found.

Rosedale rock, with only a depth of 5 feet water on it, lies 4 cables
S.E. by E. from the Great Race, and uneven ground of 5 to 8 fathoms
extends half a mile eastward of the rock. In light winds a failing vessel
should give these islands a good berth, especially when eastward of them,
as the ebb sets strongly towards then. In 18G0 a large vessel was drifted
on them by the ebb tide in a calm, and became a total loss.

LIGHT. — From a stone lighthouse, painted in alternate horizontal
black and white bands, situated on Great Race rock, is exhibited, at an
elevation of 118 feet above the mean level of the sea, a Jlashing vrhite
light, which shows a Jlash every te?i seconds, and should be visible in
clear weather from a distance of 18 miles.

Fog sigUEl. — A steam-whistle on Great Race rock will be sounded
at intervals of 72 seconds during thick or foggy weather ; the duration of
the blast being^ve seconds.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Race islands at 3h. Om. ;
rise 8 feet. The streams (in August) turn with high and low water by the
shore.

RACE PASSAGE is 4 cables in breadth between the Race rocks
and Bentinck island, and has a general depth of 14 fathoms, but with
shoal heada of 8 and G fathoms, nearly in mid-channel. This passage may
be taken by a steamer ;* but under ordinary circumstances it is not
recommended for a sailing vessel, on account of the strengtli of the tides,
and races caused by the irregular rocky nature of the bottom. A case
may arise, however, either inward or outward bound, when a vessel
overtaken by a strong S.E. wind would do better to run through, than
to risk weathering the Great Race by less than 1^ miles ; if so, the
Bentinck island shore should be kept aboard at a distance of 2 cables,
or just outside the kelp; for the northernmost rock, which forms the
southern side of tho passage, is covered at high water, and the strongest
tides and eddies are found in its neighbourhood. The course through
Race passage is N.N.E. and S.S.W.

Tide race. — Caution. — Heavy tide races occur along the north
shore of Juan de Fuca strait from Esquimalt as far westward as Beechey
bead.f

* Race passage should not be used by vessels of heavy draught at low water,
t H.M.S. Fawn, when steaming at the rate of 6 knots, was turned round in these
races. — U. Sugden, Nnvigating Lieutenant, B.N., 1874.

A 17498.

JUAN DE FUOA AND IIARO STRAITS.

[011A.P. I.

RACE ISLANDS to ESQUIMALT HARBOUR.—

After rounding Knee i,>*laii(l lijjlithousc nt the (li.staiu'C of one uiilo, the
course for Esquimalt Imrbour isN. ^ W,, distance 8^ miles. The lighthouse
on Fisgurd island, a white tower elevated 70 feet nhovo the sea, at the western
entrance point of the harbour, is very conspicuous, and will he seen imme-
diatel}' on rounding the Race islands ; a course direct for it will clear all
dangers, but attention must bo paid to the set of the tides.

The ebbtide nins almost directly from the Haro and neighbouring straits
towards the Race islands, and a sailing vessel, unless with a coi.imanding
wind, should give them n berth of more than one mile, and steer N.E. by N.
for 3 or 4 miles, before bearing up for the harbour. The flood sets to the
N.E., and with light winds vessels are liable to be carried to the eastward,
and if near to the Vancouver island shore, they may be sot up the Haro
channel, where the water is generally too deep for anchorage ; therefore,
with the flood, the coast of Parry bay should be kept aboard if possible,
where good anchorage may be had in moderate weather, and with all
westerly v/inds, at less than one mile from the shore in 10 fathoms.

By night, when Fisgard island light bears N. by W., a vessel may steer
boldly for it. The only precaution necessary is to keep the white light in
full view ; if it becomes dim or shaded, the shore is being too closely
approached and the vessel should ir'mcdiately haul out to the eastward
until it is again distinctly seen ; the two lights by their bearings will
immediately show how the vessel is being aft'ected by the tides.

Entering Esquimalt harbour, the Fisgard island light should be left
from one to two cables on the port hand ; when it bears N.W. by W. ^ W.
the light changes from white to rcd^ and shows the latter colour within the
harbour ; and when it bears S. by W. at a convenient distance, a vessel
may anchor in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance cove if preferred. The
Scrogg rocks on the eastern side of the entrance of the harbour must
be avoided ; they lie nearly 4 cables E.S.E. from Fisgard island. If
not desiring to enter the harbour at night, good anchorage may be had
in Royal roads, in 9 fathoms, with Fisgard island light bearing N. by W.
from half a mile to one mile distant.

The entrance to Victoria harbour being only 2 miles eastward from Esqui-
malt, the same precautions as regards the tides must be observed when
making for that harbour. The course from one mile off the Race islands
is N. f E. ; during daytime Victoria District church, u conspicuous white
building with a spire, standing on an eminence, will be seen shortly after
rounding these islands bearing N. by E. ^ E. ; it should be kept just on
the starboard bow. At night or during bad weather it is strongly recom-
mended not to run for this harbour, as it can only be entered at certain
stages of the tide, and the anchorage outside is at such times exposed and

CII.VP. I.]

BENTINCK ISLAND. — PEDDER BAY.

unsafe, while Royal bay, or Esqtiiinnlt linrhoiu- arc always available and
safe; but if it is decided to run for Victoria, it must l)0 borne in mind
that wlion Flsgard islanil light changos from white to red, a vessel will be
very near tli -bore.*

BENTINCK ISLAND, lying close off the south-cast point of
Vancouver island, is little over half a mile in extent, and irregularly shaped,
being almost divided in the centre by a narrow neck of land. It is about
100 feet high, and, like the adjacent land, covered witli pino trees ; its
southern and eastern sides are fringed with kelp, outside which there are
no dangers beyond thosv described in the Race channel. Rctweon it and
the mainland is a boat c lanncl, and coasters acquainted with the locrlity
find shelter at its eastern entrance ; there are some settlers' houses in the
neighbourlioc 1.

Between lionlinck island and Esquimalt harbour, a distance of 8 miles,
the coast is indented by scvei-al bays, and anchorage may be obtained in
8 to 10 fathoms anywht re within one mile of the shore, except immediately
off William and Albert heads ; the only dangers are a reef lying about one
cable's length off Albert head, and Coghlan rock in Royal bay, lying
3^ cables N.N.W. from same head..

PEDDER B AY,t tJ>c first of these indentations, has its entrance
immediately northward of licntinck island, 2 miles N.N.W. of the Great
Race rock, between cape Calvor and William head, where its breadth is
three-quarters of a mile ; the inlet takes a W.N.W. direction for 2 miles,
narrowing rapidly, and at half a mile up is only fit for small craft, which
may find good shelter at its head.

Anchorage. — Vessels of any si/e may anchor in the entrance in
7 fathoms, with cape Calver, its southern point, bearing 8.E. by S. distant
about half a mile ; but though the holding ground is gootl, it is open to all
winds from N.N.E. round by east to S.S.E., and with a S.E. gale would
neither be a desirable nor safe anchorage.

Tides. — The tides on the Vancouver island shore are very irregular in
this locality. In Redder bay (in October) the tide at high water was
observed to fall about one foot and then to rise again. When the ebb
stream had slackened in the offing, the tide i-apidly fell in Redder bay.
The ebb stream coming round William head is diverted into Redder bay
and prevents the water from leaving it ; Becher bay is subject to tlu> same
irregularities.

• See Admiralty charts: — Hnro and Kosario straits, No. 2,689 ; scale, rn = • 5 inch
and Iluro strait and Middle channel, No. 2,84c , scale, ?« = 1 inch,
f See Adiniriilty plan of IJecher and Tedder bays, No. 1,906 ; scale, m = 4 inches.

C 2

JUAN DE FUCA AND IIAEO STRAITS.

[cuAr. ir

The stronm in tho offing runs nbout 2 Iiours after liigh unil low water
by tho shore. A south-west wind fre(iuentl/ prevents tho water from
falling nt all.

PARRY BAY, immodiatcly nortliwanl from William head, affords
good anchorage with all westerly winds. Vessels bomul to sea and meet-
ing witii a strong wind from this (luartcr arc reconimentled to return here.
With a south-east wind there is ample room to weigh, which a vessel
should immediately do, and if not able to rouud tho Kacc islands and
proeeed to sea, she should run for Esquimalt harbour.

Albert head, the north point of the bay, is moderately high, sloping
to the sea, bare of trees at its extreme, but wooded immediately b'.ihind ; a
reef lies one cable off it. William head somewhat resembles it, but is lower.
The water is too deep for anchorage immediately off these heads.

Coghlan rock, on which there is only a depth of 2 fathoms, but
•with deep water all around it, lies 3^ cables N.N.W. from AUwrt head ; and
35 cables E.N.E. from the islet at the entrance of tho lagoon to the
northward.

Anchorage. — The anchorage is in 9 fathoms at from half to three-
quarters (^fa mile off the sandy beach, with William head bearing S.E. by S.
about the same distance.

ROYAL BAY or ROADS, "f which Albert head is the
southern point, and the entrance of Esquimalt harbour the northern limit,
is a fine sheet of water 3 miles in extent, affording good anchorage with
all winds which would prevent a vessel from entering that harbour.

Anchorage miy be had anywhere; within three-quarters of a mile
from the western shore. A good berth is one mile south from Duntze head,
with the entrance open, or the beacon on Dyko point just oi)on of Juskip
rocks (in the harbour) ; this latter is also the leading mark for clearing
the Scrogg rocks when steering in or out.

FISGARD LIGHT. — From a white lighthouse situated on Fisgard
island (a small rocky islet 25 feet high, and almost connected with the shore,
forming the western entrance point of Esfiuimalt harbour), at an elevation
of 70 feet above the mean level <i the sea, is exhibited a Jixed light which
shows wfiitc when bearing from N. \ W. to N.W. by W. ^ W. ; red (rom
N.W. by W. ^ W. through west to S. J E., and white from S. ^ E. to
S.E. \ E.

The white light is intended to guide a vessel in from seaward, and
while visible clears alike the western coast between Race island ond
Esquimalt, and the southern shore with its off-lying (hingers, Scrogg
rocks, and Brotchy ledge, between Duntze head o»'' Trial island. The red

ciur. I.]

ROYAL ROADS. — ESQUIMALT HAllBOUR.

lifj;Iit will bo found useful by vessels bound to Victoria or Esquimalt from
the eaatwiird ; aftor roundinj? Trial island it will indicate a vosscI'h distance
from the Khorc, and if bound to Escinimall, a VV.S.W. course will lead a
eafe distance outside JJrotcliy ledge, until the light changes from red to
white, when it may bo steered lor, and not before ; the light sliould bo
visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles.

ESQUIMALT HARBOUR* is a safe and excellent anchorage
for ships of any size, and Avith the aid of the light on Fisgard island may be
entered at all times with great facility. The entrance, whijli bears North
8^ miles from tin; lighthouse on (Ireat llace island, is between Fisgard
island and Dunt/.e head, and is U cables in breadth, opening out immediately
within to an extensive harbour having a general depth of 6 fathoms over
it, and extending 1,J miles to the noith-west. On the east side are
Constance covef and Plumper bay, in the former of which, built on Duntze
head, are the (Tloveriiment Naval establishments.

There is daily commimicatijii with Nanaimo by rail. The railway ter-
minus is situated in Thetis cove, from which there is an extension to
Victoria ; and a short branch runs down to a pier, which has been built
out from the south point of Thetis cove, near the Indian village, into a
depth of 15 feet at low water.

One eal)le'8 length above Dyke point (north point of riumper bay) the
water shoals to 3 fathoms, and from thence to the head of the harbour is a
flat with only a few feet on it at low water.

Dock. — A dock 450 feet long, and Go feet wide at the entrance, with
a depth of 2GJ feet over the sill at high water ordinary spring tides, has
been constructed west of Thetis island, and was opened on the 2;kd July
1H87, H.M.S. Cormorant being the lirst vessel to enter it. This dock
is closed by a caisson which, if necessary, can lie placed on the outer side
of the outer invert, giving an additional length to the dock of .30 feet.

Tides. — It is high water full and change in p^squimalt harbour at from
mid-night to .'} a.m. from May to October, and during the remaining
months from noon to 3 p.m. ; springs ri.se 7 to 10 feet, ucnps 5 to 8 feet.

"Winds. — The strongest and mostfrequent gnlesblowfrom S.W. and S.E.,
which are leading winds in, but rarely from N.W. The S.W. is a summer
wind, generally fresh, and biings line weather, unless it blows a gale.
S.E. winds may be looked for during the winter months, or between,
November and March, and generally a strong gale once a month with
rain and thick weather. The N.E. wind rarely blows with much strength,

* See Admiralty plan of Esquimalt and Victoria harbours, No. 576 ; scale, m =» 6 inches ;
also Admiralty plan: — KRquimalt harbour, No. 18D7" ; scale, m = 10 inches,
f See Admiralty plan: — Conutaace cove, No. 573 ; scale, w =18 niches,

JUAN DE FUCA AN£ HARO STRAITS.

[OUAP. I.

and always brings fine clear woatbcr ; a direct South wind, to •which some
pans of the harbour are open, seldom blows, and there is never sutlicient
sw^cll to render tlic uuchora^^e inconvenient.

Supplies, with the exception of fresh beef and bread mnst l>c obtained
from Victoria.

Coal. — Independent of the supply kept at the naval establishment on
Thetis island n stock of 5,000 tons of coal is maintjiincd at Esquimalt.
Vessels of about 15 feet draught can coal alongside Thetis island wharf ;
regard should, however, be paid lO the 15 feet shoal, which lies GO yards
from the liigh water mark of the island, in the direction of the pier.
Vessels can also coal alongside u wharf ; on the east side of whieli there is a
depth of 25 feet at low water. Or coal can be taken on board ut all times
from colliers or boats alongside.

Water may bo obtained during the win'ter months without difliculty from
the many streams that <low into the different bays ; but in siunmer, watering
is a tedious process, and boats must be sent either to Howe stream, at tl.o
head of the harbour, or to the salt lagoon just outside the entrance. Both
offer difficulties, unless at or near high water.

Electric telegraph.— •S'cc pp. 3, 25-12, 95.

Population. — The population of Esquimalt in 1881 was 61 1.

Beacon. — A whi*o pyramidid wooden beacon, 23 feet above high
woter, is erected on Dyke point (at the head of the harbour).

Scrogg rocks, ih^* *J>dy dangers. He on the eastern .side of the entrance
3 cables S.S.K. from Duntze head, and cover at three-(iuarters 11o(k1. Inskip
islands kept well open of the head leads clear to the westward of them ; but
the bcit mark for entering with a leading wind is the beacon on Dyke
point, just open of the rocks oil' the western end of Inskip 'slunds, bearing
N. by Vv'. \ W,, Avhieh leads in inid-chainiel.

Fisgard island should not be pas.scd within less than one cable's length
keeping just outside the kelp, which extends about half a cable eastward
from it, as a rock with only 7 feet water over it lies three-(iuarters of a
cable north-east from the lighthouse.

Buoy. — i'be shoal, with only 4 feet on it at low water, lying .south of
Village rocks, is marked by a red nmi buoy. This shoal was formerly
the foundation of the 7" head of Foster's pier, which has fallen into decay,
there being now only a portion of the pier standing.

Whale rock, with only 7 feet on it at low water, lies 2 cables W. ^ N.
from the outer Inskip island, or nearly midway between it and the
western shore of the harbour. This rock is of small extent, and not marked
by kelp ; it has a clear passage on either side, that to tho eastward being

caAT.i.] ESQUIMALT HARBOUll.— VICTORIA HAEBOTJR.

the wider. Yew and Rodd points, just touching, point to the rock ; Yew
point, just toucliing th«! lightliousc on Fisgard island, bearing S. by E. ^ E.,
lca<lsi nearly one cable's lengtli west'.ari! ; and when Ashe head is Avell
shut in by Inskip islands, a vessel will be clear to the northward. The rock
ia marked by a buoy coloured red and black iu vertical stnpes, moored off
its south side.

AnchoragO. — The most convenient unchorngo is in Constance cove,*
on the eastern side of the harbour, im'nediately round Duntze heml, the
general depth being 6 futiiorn'-, and thu -.olding gi'ound good ; vej5.sels of
war anchoring between Dockyard jetty and Foster's pier, or Village
rocks. There is, however, safe anehor.ige in any part of the harbour, in
not less than 1^ fathoms, as far northward as Dyke point.

Thetis cove, in Plumper bay, on the eastern side of the harbour, im-
mediately north of Constance cove, is a snug anchorage in 4^ fathoms, with
the barbour entrance just shut in by Inskip rooks; but vessels proceeding
above these rocks must take care to avoid the Whale rock.

Observation spot. — Du'itze head flagstafl' is in Int. 48^ 2o' 49" N.
long. 123'^ 2(>' 45" W.

Directions. — Vessels entering the harbour at uight with a strong
wind after them, should trke care to .shorten sail in time, as the space
for rounding to is somewhat limited ; and it is desirable to moor if any
stay is intended, as the winds arc changeable.

The best time for sailing vessels to leave the harbour is early in the
morning, wliei ei>her a calm or light land wind may be expected ; there
is little strength of tide in the harbour, or for some distance outside, and
it sets f '.-rly in and out.

VICTORIA HARBOUR,t a little more than 2 miles eastward
from Escpumalt, bus its entr.uice between Ogden and MacLaughlin points.
Alacaulay point, a remarkablt; i)r()joction nearly midway between the two
harbiturs, is a bare flat [)oint about 30 feet high, showing as a yellow clay
clilf, worn by the action of the sea and weather into a rounded knob at the
extreme. Tiic coast for one mile on either side of this point is frl'iged with
sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boats in Imd weather, m.my fatal
accidents having occurred.

The entrance to the harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with
S.W. or S.E. gules a heavy rolling swell sets on the cojvst, which rendi'rs
the anchorage outside unsafe, while vessels of burthi-n cannot run in for
shelter unless at or near high wat^jr. Vessels drawing 14 or 15 feet valor

* Sec Ailiuhalty plan : — CoDBtancc cove. No. 572 ; scale, m = IS inches,
t Sie Ailminilty jilan : — Kstiuiinalr and Victcria liiirboiirs. No. 570; scale, m
iuchva; also Victoria Ubibour I8U7''i hcuIc, ih = lU iucLcs.

JUAN DE FUCA AND IIABO STKAITS.

[chap. r.

may, umler ordinary circHnistnnocP, enter at such times of tide ; and ships
drawing 17 feet have entered, though only at the top of spring tides.

Doubtless Victoria harbour is susceptible of iraprovement by artificial
means, though it is improbable that it can be made a safe and con-
veniciHt port of entry for vessels of even moderate tonnage, at all times of
tide and weather.

Victoria was selected by the Hudson's Bay Company as the depot of their
establishments in coiisoqiienco of the quantity of clear good land in the
inuncdiate neighbourhood, and the harbour being sufliciently spacious for
the few small vessels in their employ, in these respects it was well chosen.

^'icto^ia, the seat of the government, is the largest and most important
town in British Columbia, and enjoys a considerable foreign and coasting
trmie, which is anniudly inereusing. Tiie resident population according
to tlu' census taken in 1881 was {i,6H7 exchisive of Indians, but is now
said to be nearly 12,000, and the town has made great ]trogress since 18o8,
whiui it may be said to have first sprung into existence ; it now covers a
large extent of ground, substantial and handsome stone and I)riek i)uihl-
ings everywhere replacing the wooden structures first crec'ted. Victoria
lias excellent educational institutions, hospitals, and library, and the streets
are lighted by the electric light.*

Harbour and pilot dues are charged ; and there are sick mariners dues of
2 cents a Ion register three times a year on vessels of 100 im" and
upwards, and once a year on vessels under 100 tons. There is a quataii-
tine station for })er8ons affected with infectious diseases; and a hospital for
seamen who are recommended lor admission i)y masters of vussels tltat have
paid sick mariners dues.

At the entrance of the iiarbour, on the south side of Shoal point, there is
ft wharf which is used by the San Francisco >teamers. The pier is (iOO
feet in length and has a depth of 23 at low water. Along the eastern side
of the harbour in front of the town there Hr<» about 400 yanls of fair
wharl'iige, with a depth of from 10 to 1*5 feet at low water spring fides.
Between Songhies and Limit points on the opposite side of the harbour
is a small slip capable of receiving vessels of about 200 tons i)urthen 5
larger vessels, however, may luave down alongside the wharves.

During the year 188() (515 vessels visited the port of Victoria of an
aggregate tonnage of 36{),()28 tons: and the value of tiie ex|)oits for the
year 1881 amounted to i<l,787,10.), and of the imports to ,(*2,9a4, 1 30.

A submarine telegraph cable crosses the strait of Georgia at Nanaimo
and connects the city with the mainland of British Columbia, and another
crosses .Juan sle Fuca strait to Washington territory.

There is direet mail commiinication with San Francisco every week,
a tri-weekly service to tiio east coast of Vancouver ishuid, and a liaily

* luitftUQes have been known uf ihockn of furtlxiuakoN being i'elt at Victoria.

CHAP. 1.3 VICTORIA. IIAUBOUR. — BROTCHY LEDGE.

service to poro Moody, except on Mondiiyn; and steamers run daily, except
on Sundays, to the ports in Puget sound. There is daily ooinmunication
with Nannimo by rail.

Buoys. — Tho eliannpi is marked by black buoys with odd numbers on
the northern aide, and red buoys with even numbers on the .southern side.

The buoys marking the northern edge of the shoul extending from Shonl
point, aa al-so Cimnnel rock (lying half a cable .south-west of Polly island)
fire of pyramidiil shape, Hurmountcd by a bull.*

Supplies. — Provisions of all kind.s, and of an excellent (piality, may
be procured, and watei is to be had from a iloating tank capable of going
outside tho harbour. Supplies for refitting and repairing vessela, except
timber, are scarce and expensive, but of fair (piality. Onlinary repairs to
machinery of steanu-rs can i»e cH'ectcd.

Coals can bo obtained at tho price $i\ per ton, but a large quantity is
not kept in ftore. Vessel.s can coal alongside the wharves in the harbour,
and also from the wharf on tho south side of Shoal point.

Patent sLt). — There is a slip (" Cook's Ways ") on which vessola
of moderate liize mn be hauled up.+

AnchoX'age. —Vessels itnchoring outside the harbour to wait for the
tide, or fro:u otl er causes, should not come within a line between
Ogden and MacLiUghlin points, the former beaiing E. ^ S., the latter
W. .J N., nii('way between, or one cjiiarter of a mile from either; this
is a gotxl stopping ))hice with off-shore winds or line weather, but is
by no means recommended as a safe anchorage for sailing vessels during
the winter months, when biw? weather may bo looked ibr with little
warning.

Pilots. — There are pilot'i attndied to the port, who keep a good l(>r)k
out tor vessels off the entmnce. Pilot^ige is compul.'iory to all merchant
vessels, except ooaMters.;};

Brotchy ledge. — Al)out 4 cables from Holland iwint, and right
in the fairway of ves.sels entering Victoria harbour from the eastward,
lies the Mroteiiy ledge with <»nly T) IVet water on its shoalest part ; it is
covered with kelp, and is nl)Out one cable in extent within the o-fathom
line. There are 9 fathoms water between the ledge and the shore.

• Tho buoy fDrmcrly iiiHrkiiif^ tho potition of Slcepor rock hat. been roinovod.

t HM. jfiiii-vi-sHt'l Horkei wik.s hauioil up on it in ISB'J.

X Pilots are Nt'ldom met with below tho Itaci- rociot ; but lK-tw«eii Jnnimry and July,
in nKxIcratc «i'BthiT, vessels iippronc-liin^ tlio ^traits of Junn tli' Fuca iind rt'nuirin^.' n
pilot, nuiy olitaJM u man compeleiit to tuku thvin to Itoyul roiulx or port 'rowu>hon(l
iVom the Mchoonem ongngud in the mchI tmliory off the couxt, Itotwcon cape Itoalc and
Cliiyoquot ■•ound, nl a di^tuiii'o ut' frnu! 5 to ^(t niili-« from tlii' land. Somclinn's iti
Ni»'i>h bay n pilot may b< hud if a gun in tired iivii'i' in (piick siH'COKsiun. (,iun« arc
UKed liy tht> xeitliiif; Mohoonors in fo^^'y weuthiT, but only onoe in 10 or 15 niiuutfi, no
that a gun firi.il twice in quick MUucesRioD wuiibt not be luiitukcu.

JUAN DE rUCA AND HARO STllAITS.

[ciur. I.

Buoy. — Tliis shoal is lutirkcd by a pyniniidul buoy, coloured red and
black in horizonUil stripes, and surmounted by a cage, moored 1 ^ cables
S.W. from the shoal of 5 feet. The buoy is occasionally washed away
during the heavy winter gales.

Fisgard island lighthouse, north part of Brothers island, and Macaulay
point in lino bearing W. J N., leads one cable north of tho ledge in
9 fathoms, between it and the shore ; and Fisgard i.-iland lighthouse, just
open southward of Brothers ishvnd bearing W. by N. ^ N., leads 2 cables
south of tho ledge in 21 fathoms water.

LIGHT. — From a white wooden lighthouse 30 feet high, situated on
Berens island (west side of Victoria harbour), is exhibited, at an elevation
of 44 feet above the sea, ajixed bine light, which should be visible in clear
weather from a distance of 6 miles.

Fog signal. — A fog bell is rung during foggy weather, whenever
vos.sels indicate by their whistles that they ore approaching the harbour.

Directions. — The (channel is buoyed {see p. 41), but it is necessary
for a stranger to take a pilot, and tho space is so confined and tortuous
that a long slnp has considerable difficulty in making tho necessary turn ; a
large per-centage of vosselii entering tho port, small as well as large, con-
stantly run aground from these causes, or from trying to enter at an
improper time uf tide, or neglecting to take a pilot. Such accidents,
however, are seldom attended with more than delay and inconvenience, as
tho shoalest and moft intricate part of the pa-ssage is sheltered ; when
within, the port is perfectly h'.nd-locked, and vessels .nay lie in from 14
to 18 feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is limited.

TidOS. — It is "^ijli water at full and change in Victoria harbour at
from midnight to 3 a.m. from May to October, and during the remaining
months at from noon to .'i p.m. ; springs rise 7 to 10 feet ; neaps rise 5 to
8 feet.*

Tho COAST from Victoria harbour trends in an easterly direction for
2 miles to Clover point, and is for the most part faned by white sandy cliffs,
varying in heigiit from 10 to 80 feet ; a sandy beach extends along tho
whole way, and at one cable's distance off in many places are rocks and foul
ground. Two cables east froni Iloll.ind point, and one cable oil' shore, iirc
tho Glimpse reefs, which cover at three-quarters flood, and have a depth of
7 fathoms just outside them.

Beacon hill, Ji gentle rise of the land, 2 cables from the water's odgo
and one mile oust from the harbour, is MO feet high, grassy, and bare
of tree?.

Clover point, 'it 2 n»il«.-3 eastward from tho outranco to Victoria
hmboiir, i.-i low, bill j ol trees, and piojectiitg ; it is Hte«!p-lo, and off it strong

* On .'. Uh NovuniLjtr 5871 Ibcro wu-j ;iu uuusually high tidt, almgsi submerging foia*.i
of the wLarvoB.

CHAP. I.] TRLVL ISLANDS. — ENTERPRISE CUANNEL.

tide rips form, whicli ftrc dangerous to boats in heavy vvciithcr. Ross bay to
the eastward of it is open, but scrnetimes used by small craft if wsiitliig for
the tide, (here being depths of 4 to 5 fathoms at 9. cables' distance offshore

Telegraph. — fhe .submarine telegi-uph cable connecting Vancouver
islaiul with the United States is laid from Clover point to Nev Dungencss,
see p, 25.

Foul bay, nearly one milo north-east from Clover point, is of small
extent and filled with rocks, OfF its entrance are the Templar rocks, with a
depth of about 4 feet on thcni they are marked by kelp.

Foul point, oil the cast side of Foul bay, is rocky ; but there is not less
depth than 4 fathoms at one calde's distance. The land at (he baek of
the point rises to a height of 230 feet, forming a rocky ridge or summit,
known n« Gonzales hill.

TRIAL ISLANDS, nearly \\ miles eastward from Clover point on
the south tfide of Enterprise channel, are two in number, bare and rocky, but
they generally npj)car as one. The south or largest island is 80 feet high,
and steep-to at it? outer end ; the northern one Is low, and I'lDm it foul
ground exteutls some distance. Stropg tide ripjjles prevail off the southern
island especially during the floo*l, which runs nearly 6 knots at springs just
outside it.

INNER CHANNELS.* — The inner channels loading from Juan
(1(1 Fuca strait into the Ilaro strait are the Enterprise, Moiiatt, Mayor, and
Baynes channels, and Ilecate and Plumper passages.

Enterprise channel, b«'tween Trial inlands and the Viincouver
shore, is a naritns, tortuous, but deep channel, mueh usjd by hteamers
and cop-sters trnJing to Victoria harboui*, as n slight saving of distance
is effoctod, and loss tide exjjcrienc«l tlian by going south of the Trial
islands ; it is about one mile loiiu, and \\tCii a cable wide, in the narrowest
place, and there are not less than 24 foet water in the shoalest part.

McNeil bay, "" 'he north -^Ide of the channel, to the eastward
of Foul point, ;> upwards i.^" 3 cables in extent, with from 2 to 6
fatbotus water ; it is open to the southward, and foul ground exists
in its east jiart, but the bay is much used by small vessels waiting for the
tide.

Mouatt reef, '» the eastern part of the channel, 3 cables N.E. by N.
frvim north Trinl island and nearly 2 cables' lengths offshore, is a1)out one
cabK' in extent, imd I'ovtrs at ont- nuarter flood ; this reef is dangerous for
vessels u>4,ng tb«.^ Kuterprise -hnnncl, as it lies just north of the fairway.

McNeil fwiu, juHt open west (»f Kitty islet, a bare yellow lock 4
feet >»igli on the eawt side of McNeil l>ay, bearing W. i^ N., lejvds half

t :~-bui'r ohannelB, No. S77 ; sculu, m -t G inches.

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[chap.

H cable south of Mouatt reef; unci Channel point in lino with tiio
west side of the Great Chain islet bearing N. by E. jf E., leads nearly
2 cables cast of it.

DiroctionS. — Hound (lirouf;h tho Enterprise channel to the east-
ward, when past Foal bay, giro Foul point a berth of 2 or 3 cables, and
steer for the west side of McNe I bay on a northerly course ; approaeli it
close to, after which steer direct for Kitty islet, and when within half a
cable's length of the latter, liaul quickly to tlie eastward, keeping McNeil
farm just open west of Kitty ish-t, bearing W. )( N. ; this will lead safely
through the narrowest part of tlie channel and south of Alouatt reof.
When Channel point and the west side of Creat Chain islet come in line
bearing N. by E. \ E. the vessel will bo well east of the reef, and should
alter course to the northward to avoid tl»e Hrodio rock, proceeding up
through any of the inner ehannels.

Brodie rock, n patch of 3 fathoms least water, marked by kelp, lies
nearly one mile N.E. J N. from the suniniit of the south Trial inland, and
6 cables E. ^ S. from Mouatt reef.

The north point of small Trial island in line with Foul point bearing
W.S.W. leads 1^ cables' lengths nortli of IJrodie rock.

Foul point seen between the Trial islands bearing W. i{ S. leads 2J
cables' lengths south of the rock.

Cadboro point in line with tho east extremo of Great Chain island
bearing N. by W. leads 2\ cables' lengths to the eastward of the rock.

Gonzales point forms the south-east extreni\y of Vancouver
island. It is a low salient point, rocky, bare of trees, and steep-to on tho
east side.

Oilk bay. — -From Gonzales point, the Vancouver shore trends to
tlu' northward, and at one mile from the point forms a sandy bay which is
somewhat luss than one luile in extent, and artbrds fair anchorage near its
north part in from .3 to I fathoms.

The best anchorage is to the northward of Mary Todd islet in the south
part of the bay. This islet is bare, and ubout .30 feet higli ; at. 2 cables
east from it, is Emily islet. 4 feet above high water, and the same distance
soiuh from Emily islet, lies the Kobson reef, which uncovers at low
water.

Cadboro bay, 2^ miles to the northward from Gonzales point,
is about half u niih! in eit<*nt, and open to the south-east ; no sea, however,
rises within it, and there is gooil anchoraui' m from ,"! to 4 fathoms water
near the entrance.

Tlie Vancouver shore from Gonzales point to this bay is low and lightly
timbered with dwarf oak and pine trees ; to tho northward of Oak bay it
is clear of danger at one cable's distance.

CTIAP. I.]

MAYOR AND MOUATT CHANNELS.

Thd'HlOS ShOEl, on which is a depth of 2 fathoms, is of small
extcMit, ftiid marked by kolp ; it lies nearly half a milo N, Ijy E. J E. from
Gonzales point, at the south-west part of the Mayor channel. Channel
point in line with tho west side of Great Chain islet bearing N. by E. | E.,
leads one cable east of this shoal; and the highest part of Trial i^jhiiid in
lino with Gonzules point bearing S. J VV. leads half u cable west of it.

Mayor channel, to the northward of Gonzales point, and west
of Chuin islets, is about 2 miles long in a winding direction to the
northward, its brea<lth in the narrowest part is 3 cables, and the (Icptha
in it vary from 9 to 13 fathoms. The channel is bounded on tlie west
side by Thames shoal, Harris island, end Fiddle reef, and abreast tlie latter
on its opposite side lies the Lewis reef. The tide seldom runs more than
3 knots through this channel, and it is the one generally used.

Mouatt channel. — Lee rock, which only uncovers at low
water spring tides, lies 1.^ cables W.N. \V., from Thames shoal; it is
marked by kelp and steep-to on the east side. IJetween this rock and
'J'hames shoal is Mouatt channel, one cable wide with depths froni 7 to 9
fathoms.

Th(> highest part of Trial island in lino with Gonzalos point, bearing
S. J W., leads midway between Thames shoal and Le(! rock ; also tluKugh
tho fairway of the north part of Mayor channel between Fiddle and Lewis
reefs.

Piddle roof, »t the north-west extrom .■ of Mayor chann(>l, and up-
wards of one milo from GDnzales point, is of simiU extent, and awash at
high water spring tides ; it may be approached close to on tho east side.

Beacon. — A beacon, consisting of a white conical structure U feet
high, surmounted by a black polo and cage 10 feet high, has been erected
on Fiddle reef.

Todd rock, at l^ cables W.N.W., from Fiddle ree'i, in tho entrance
to Oak bay, covers at two-thirds flood, and is marked by kolp.

Lewis reef, "t the north-oast part of Mayor ehanni?!, lies 2.^ cables
S.E. by E., from Fi<ldl..> reef, and 2| cables N.VV., from Great Chain islet,
covers at high water, and may be ap[)roachcd close to on the west fide.

The passage between it and Chain islets is fdled with kelp, but has not
less than 2 fathoms water.

A beacon, consisting of a round stone lower, ooloined hhick 10 feet
in height, surmounted by a cross, 16 feet above high water is situated on
Lewis reef.

Chain islets, midway between Discovery island and the Van-
couver shore, are a bare rocky group, two-thirds of a mile long iu a
westerly direction, and half a mile wide. The largest, called Great Chain
islet, is about one cable in extent and 30 feet above high water ; it lies at

JUAN DE FUCA AND IIARO STRAITS.

[chap. I.

tho south-west sido of the group, and its south part may ho npproiielied to
ono onhlo's distance.

SponCOr ledgO, off tlicir cast sido at a distance of ] ^ ciibles I'rom
the castornino.st high-water rock, in mnrkt-d hy kclj), and has 9 ft-et water ou
its shoftlest pnrt ; if going through Ilccato passage it requires to be
guarded against. Cadhoro point, open west of ClianncI point bearing
N.N.W. § \V., leads ono cable east of this ledge through Hecate passage.

Caroline reef, ^t the nortli part of the group, and connected to it
by a rocky ledge, is of small extent, and covers at one quarter flootl, but is
well out of the track of vessels using any of the channels. Foul ground
with depths of from 3 to 4 fathoms, and marked by kelp, extemls upwards
of one cable west from it.

DISCOVERY ISLAND i^ 2 miles north-east from Gonzales
point, at the junction of the lluro and Kuca straits. It is wooded, about
three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its .shores on all sides are bordered
by rocks, extending in some places nior ■ tlian 2 cal>les off. Rudlin bay,
on its south-east side, is filled witli rocks, and should not bo used by any
vessel.

LIGHT. — From n white wooden lightlionse 47 feet high, situated on
tho east extreme of Discovery island, is exhibited, nt an elevation of
91 feet above high water, a fixed wiiite light, visible between the bearings
of N.N.E. 5 E., through west, and S.E. \ S. (thus showing over an arc
embracing Ilaro strait and Sidney channel, and the direction of Race
islands). The light should be visible in clear weather from a distance of
15 miles.

CHATHAM ISLANDS, to tlu> north-west of Discovery island,
and separated from it by n narrow boat pass, are of small extent, forming
an irregular groiip, low, wooded, and almost connected with each other at
low water, the tide sets with great strength through the passages between
them ; tlieir west side is steejj-to.

Leading point, at tiie south extreme of Chatham islands, is a bare
rocky islet at high water ; to the eastward of it is a small l)oat cove
Channel point, their west extreme, is also bare and steep-to ; the tide sets
strongly past it.

Strong Tide islet, the north-west of Chatham islands, is rocky,
about 60 feet high, and wooded ; its west side fornis tho eastern boundary
of Baynes channel, and is steep-to ; the ebb tide sets vt ry strongly past it,
nearly 6 knots at springs.

Refuge cove, on the east .side of Chatham islands, is small, and
has a depth of 1^ fathoms in the centre ; coasters or small craft entangled
among these islets may find shelter in it. Alpha islet, tlie easternmost of
the group, is bare, and 10 feet above high water ; it is steep-to on the cast
side, but only a boat should attempt to go westward, or inside it.

CHAP. I.] DISCOVERY ISLAND. — HECATE AN1> PLUMPER PASSAGES. 47

Fulford roof, ^ cnbles north from the Chatham i.ilnnds, is about one
cable in extent, and covers at one-tliird flood. Vessels using the Rnyne.--
channel should keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as the tide
sets irregularly in its vicinity.

HECATE and PLUMPER PASSAGES.-Discovery island

is separated from the Chain islets by a passage lialf n mile wide in the
narrowest part, forming an apparently clear and wide channel ; but near the
middle of the south [)art lies Centre rock, which has only a depth of 3 feet
over it, and though marked by kelp, this, from the strength of the tides, is
often run under, and seldom seen. There is a deep passage on either side
of this danger, the one to the westward being called Hecato, and that
to the eastward, Plumper passage ; the latter is wider and best adapted for
large steamers, but the tide sets very strongly through both of them.

Leading marks. — Cadboro point, open west of Channel point bear-
ing N.N.W". il W,, leads through Hecate passage in raid-channel, west of
Centre rock.

Cadboro point, well shut in north of Leading point bearing N.W. ^ N,,
leads through Plumper passage in mid-channel, east of Centre rock.

Baynos Channol, between Cadboro point and the Chatham
islands, connecting these inner channels with Ilaro strait, is upwards of
one mile long and half a mile wide'; the depths in it are irregular, varying
from 2| to 30 fathoms, and the tide at springs sets through it with a
velocity of 4 to 6 knots, strongest along the eastern side.

FiVO-fathom shoal, which lies in the centre of the channel, is not
marked by kelp. Nearly one cable N.W. from it is another shoal with
only 16i feet water on it, aud extending about 83 yards north and south
and 50 yards ea.«t and west ; it lies 4| cables N.W. | N. from Channel
point, and 3J cables E.N.E. from Jemmy Jones islet. To avoid it a vessel
should keep a little over on either side of mid-channel.

CADBORO POINT, on the Vancouver shore, at he termination
of the irnier channels, is nearly 3 miles north from Gonzales point, and
three-quarters of a mile N.W., from the Chatham islands. It is about
50 feet high, rocky and bar%of trees. A small islet lies just ofi' it, also a
reef which covers; when passing do not approach the islet within
2 cables.

The coast west from Cadboro point to Cadboro bay is low, very much
broken, aiul there are some off-lying rocks.

Jemmy Jones islet, which is l)arc and 15 feet above high water,
lies 3 cables oif shore, and 4 J cables S. by W. from Cadboro point ; foul
ground extends around it for upwards of one cable in some parts, and though
there is deep water between it and the shore, none except small craft
should go through that passage.

JUAN DE FUCA AND IIARO STRAITS.

[ciui. I.

DIRECTIONS. — Though those inner channels are deep, thoy
shouhl not be used except by steamerH of nioderato size or by Hnmll crnft,
unless in cases of necessity, and a knowledge of liic tide is indispensaljlc.
Coasters and small steamers, Avhon taking advantag<! of them, gj'uerally
proceed through the Mayor channel. If using this channel, after
passing Gonzales point keep the west side of Great Chain islet in
line with Channel point bearing N. by K. \ E, till within 2 cables of tho
islet, when the north end of Mary Todd island will be in line with tho
north point of Harris island and the vessel will be clear of the Thames
shoal, after which steer to (ho north-west, bringing liic highest part of
Trial island in line with Gonzales point bearing S. J W., and with that
mark on astern, steer N. } E., which will lead between tho Fiddle and
Lewis reefs, and on through Kayncs channel, to Ilaro strait, taking care,
however, to avoid the ])ateli of 16.^ feet lying close to the; Five-fathom
phoal, as this mark leads only half a cable's length westward of the patcii.
When past Lewis and Fidtlle reefs, a vessel may steer N.N. K., and pass
out of Baynes channel between Five-fathom shoal and Strong Tide islet,
but the tides are much stronger this side of the channel.

Going through Mouatt chaimel, which is very narrow and seldom used,
after rounding Gonzales point at one cable's distance, bring the highest part
of Trial island in line with the point l)earing S. J W., and keeping this
mark on astern, and steering N. | E., will lead through clear of danger.

Tho Heaito and Plumper passivges are nearly straight, and better adapted
for large steamers than those west of the Chain islets. If using either of
ihem, after passing either through Enterprise channel, or southward of
Trial islands, bring the leading marks (page 47) on, and keep them so till
northward of the Centre roek, when stwr up in mid-channel between
Chain islets and Chatham islands, N.W. by \V., towards Cadl)oro bay, and
through Baynes channel into Haro strait.

Tides. — 'I'l'« '>igl» water at full and change is irregular and much in-
fluenced by prevailing winds; the greatest rise and fall of tide at Discovery
island is 12 feet. During summer months in these channels, the flood
stream commences at 11. lo a.m., running with great strength till nearly
3 p.m., after which but little tide is fi'lt till 4 a.m. on the following day,
when the ebb commences and runs strong till nearly 11a.m., the time of
low water by the shore.

CONSTANCE BANK, lying i» the Fuca strait, nearly (> miles
S.E. by. E. ^ E. from Fisgard island lighthouse, li miles S. by \V. from
Trial island, and 7 miles N.E. from Race island lighthouse, is upwards of
one mile in extent with depths of from 9 to 11 fathoms, but a vessel should
not anchor on it, as the bottom is rocky.

ciiAi'. I] CONSTANCE, FONT^, AND MIDDLK BANKS,

'A9

FONTfi BANK, within the depths of 10 fnthoms, is about 1^ milos
in extent ; it hu8 'Icptlis of from 3^ to 5 fiithomH on it nml ia niniked by
kolp. It lies nearly in the niitldlo of Fueii strait, 6'^ milcH S. ^ W. from
Cattl«> point (San Juan island), H milos E. by S. from Discovery ishind,
and 8 miles VV. ^ S. from Smith or Blunt island lighthouse. This bank
should bo avoided, as there may bo less water on it than shown in the
chart.

HARO STRAIT,* tho westernmost of the three channels leading
from Fiica strait into tho strait of Georgia, is bounded on the western side
by Vancouver island, and its off-lying smaller islands and reefs, ap.d on
the eastern side by tho islands of San iTuan and Stuart, and trnaiis in a
N.W. i)y N. dintctiun for IH miles; it then turns sharply to the N.K. round
Tnni point of Stuart island, for a farther distance of 12 miles, leaving
Saturna island to the westward, and VValdron and L'atos islands to the
eastward, when it enters tho strait of Georgia between Saturna and Patos
islands.

It is for the most part a broad, an<l for its whole extent a deep navi-
gable hh\\^ channel ; but on account of the reefs which exist in certain
paits, the general absence of steady winds, the scarcity of anchorages,
and, above all, the strength and varying direction of the tides, nmeh care
and vigilancu is necessary in its navigation, and it is far more adapted
to steam than to sailing vessels.

B«!side8 tho main channel of tho llaro strait thus de8cril)ed, there are
Kovend smaller channels and passages branching from it by which vessels
may enter tht! strait of (ieorgia ; thus the Swanson channel leads into the
strait by Active |uiss,f and the Trincomalie and Stuart channels by the
Porti(U' pass, or tho Dodd narrows.

These chaimels may be again entered by smaller ones ; thus Sidney and
Cordova chaimels, on the western side of Ilaro strait, lead by Moresby,
Culbourne, and Shutc passages into the Swanson, Satellite, an<l Stuart
channels, and finally into the stmit of Georgia. These channels an*
esBcntially adapted to steam navigation, or to coasting vessels ; they atlord
smooth water, and ninny of th(>m anchorages. Sec pp. 64, 65.

Middle bank, lying in the southern entrance of Ilaro strait,
4 miles E. by N. from Discovery islaml. and almost in mid-channel, is a
rocky jnitch about 2 miles in extent each way, and the least water foiiml
on it is 10 fathoms. In bml weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and
in tho vicinity of this bank, which are dangc^rous to boats or small craft.

* .Vc(; Atlmifrtlfy I'linrt:— Ilaro strait and Mitldlc channel, No. 3,840; scale, m » 1 '0 inch,
t Formerly Plumper pas-*, by whioh nanif it wn- more (xoiicnilly known.

A 1740H. n

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

!ri^ IIIIIM

'" "■" 1 2.2

J" lig '^

it i:£ IIIIIM

1.8

1.25 1.4

jl.6

6" —

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEP^TER.N.Y. 14580

(,'16) 872-4503

t-?/

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[cilAP. r.

Zero rock, one of tho principal dangers in the southei'n part of Ilaro
strait, lies on the west side of tlie strait, is about half a cable in extent,
covers at three-quarters Hood, and its vicinity is marked by kelp ; it lies
6^ miles N.W. from the east point of Discovery island, and 3i miles
K. by C from the high white cliff of Cowitchin head.

Beacon. — A whitewash(;d bc:?con, pyramidal in shape, 30 feet high,_
surmounte<l by a pole and frame resembling an obelisk 20 feet high, also
coloured white, has been erected on Zero rock.

A rocky patch, part of which nearly uncovers at low water springs,
lies 3i cables N.N.W, ^ W., from Zero rock.

Discovery island light is obscured in the direction of Zero rock, and
westward of it.

The Kelp reefs, three-quarters of a mile in extent, lie almost in the
centre of Haro strait, 7 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from the east point of Discovery
island, 5 miles E. by N. from Cowitchin head, and 2 miles E. by S. from
the south end of Darcy island. They uncover at low springs, and are well
marked by kelp, which extends in detached patches to Darcy island.

A black conical iron buoy* is moored in 6 fathoms water off the eastern-
most patch of the Kelp reefs.

The Unit rock lies three-quarters of a mile E. by N. ^ N. from the
south-east point of Darcy island, and uncovers 2 feet at low tides.

Bare island well open north of the south-east point of Sidney island,
bearing N.W. \ W. leads one-quarter of a mile east of Kelp reefs and Unit
rock.

DIRECTIONS. — Vessels passing up Haro strait to avoid the above
dangers, after rounding Discovery island at the distance of one mile, should
steer N.N.W., or for Kellett bluff of Henry island, a remarkable steep
rocky headland. Tliis course will clear to the eastward of Kelp reefs by
one mile. In working up, when standing westward, a vessel should tack
when the north-west extreme of Low island comes in line with the south-
east point of Sidney island, which will give the Zero rock a good berth ;
but when approaching the Kelp reefs. Bare island must be kept well open
to the eastward of the same point to avoid them. The eastern or Snn
Juan shore is steep close to.

When abreast Kellett bluff, at from half a mile to one mile distant, a
N.W. by N. course will pass the same distance from Turn point of Stuart
island. There are no dangers off this point ; but whirling eddies and tide
rippliugs, caused by the meetings of the streams from so manj channels,
are generally met with, particularly on the ebb. A vessel may reach this
point with a fresh southerly wind, but will almost invariably lose it here,
until having opened out the middle channel eastward of San Juan.
* Tliis buoy is liuliic to drift out of position owing to the strong tidc«.

CHAP. I.] ZERO ROCK. — KELP REEfS. —DIRECTIONS.

After rounding Turn point, a N.E. ^ N. course for 10 miles will lead to
thft northern entrance of Haro strait, between the East point of Saturnaand
Patos islands. This passage is 2^ miles ui breadth, but is subject to heavy
tide ripplings and eddies ; vessels when possible should pass through
the centre of it, steering for the white cliffs of point Roberts (Orcas Nob
well open east of Waldron island bearing S.S.E. \ E. leads through
mid-channel), and should not bear away to the westward until the south end
of Sucia is shut in wirli south end of Patos island. At night, after
passing between Saturna and Patos islands they should maintain a
northerly course for about 2 or 3 miles, and then if the light on Georgina
point, at the entrance to Active pass, is not visible, steer to the W.N.W.
until it is sighted ; remembering that this light becomes obscured when it
bears to the westward of W. ^ S., and as whilst it is in view all dangers on
the southern shores of the strait will be avoided, they should be careful to
keep it in sight and by no means stand to the southward of the above line
of bearing.

The flood from the llosario strait, which is met with as soon as the
passage between Orcas and Sucia islands is open, is apt to set a vessel
towards the East point of Saturna,* off which and Tumbo island there is
much uneven and broken ground with heavy tide races. This point
.should be given a berth of 1^ miles; taking care to avoid a dangerous
rock lying 7^ cables N.N.E from Race point, Tumbo island. See p. 129.

The ebb sets to the eastward even before the strait of Georgia is well
open, and a vessel finding herself not likely to weather Patos should pass
between it and Sucia, where there is a good clear passage of above one mile
in breadth ; if this passage is taken, the Patos island shore should be kept
rather aboard. Beware of the Plumper and Clements reefs ; the former
lies 1| miles S.W. by S. from the north-west bluff" of Sucia island, and
has 10 feet water on it; the latter the same distance N.E. ^ N. from the
same bluff", and has 9 feet water over it.

When in the strait of Georgia, from W. by N. to W.N.W. is a fair raid-
channel course. If bound for Eraser river, a N.W. by W. course from the
centre of the channel between Patos island and East point of Saturna, will
lead to the Sand heads, a distance of nearly 20 miles. Entering the strait
and having passed to the northward of Patos island, if the ebb is running
a vessel is extremely liable, unless with a commanding breeze, to be set to
the eastward and down the Rosario channel.

The northern shore of Sucia island should by all means be avoided ;
if Aldeu bank can be reached it offers a good anchorage while waiting
for a tide. Aldeu point, the west point of Patos island, in line with
Monarch head, a bold cliffy bluff', bearing S.W. ^ W., leads over the

♦ A revolving white light attiiining its greatest brilliiincy every 80 aecomU, visible
between the bearings of N.E. \ N., through west, and S.E. by E. \ E., is exhibited from
East point, Suturnu island; the light is elevated 140 feet above the sea, and should b<3
visible in clear weather from u distance of 18 miles. The lighthouse, painted while
with a red lantern, is square in shape.

D 2

JUAN DE FLCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[chap. r.

northern edge of this bank in from 6 to 9 fathoms.* When Mount Con-
stitution is in line with the centre of Matia island, bearing S.S.E. ^ E.,
9 fatlioms water may be expected, and a ship should not anchor in much
less than this depth, as in the shoaler parts, rocky ground is found ;
the least water on the bank is 2| fathoms.

With a foul wind and ebb tide a vessel should always work up on the
northern shore ; there are no dangers, little tide when eastward of a line
between Roberts point and Alden bank, and anchorage may always bo
had within one mile of the shore if necessary. Birch and Scmiahmoo bay.9
oiFer good anchorage, and are easy of access. In working up the strait of
Georgia the southern shore should never be approached within ivfo miles
until westward of Active pass, and then not within one mile ; the
tides sweep strongly along this shore, and there are several outlying
reefs between East point and Active pass.

As soon us the strait is entered from the southward, Roberts point will
show its eastern part as a bold white-faced cliff, its western as a low shingle
point ; its summit is covered with trees, and it would at first sight be
taken for an island in consequence of the land on its northern side
falling rapidly in elevation. After passing northward of this point, its
low-water extreme, or the trees just within it, must not bo brought
to bear southward of E. ^ S. to avoid Roberts bank, which extends
5 miles off the Eraser river entrance, is steep-to, and shoals suddenly from
25 to 2 fathoms.

CORMORANT BAY, .between Gordon and Cowitchin heads, on
the western side of Haro strait, is a good stopping-place and easy of access
under most circum.stances. It may be entered either to the southward or
northward of Zero rock ; the passage to the southward is 1^ miles in
breadth, with a depth of 20 fathoms. Mount Douglas, a remarkable hill
696 feet high, with its summit bare of trees, rises immediately over the
coast at the head of the bay.

Johnstone reef, on which there is a depth of 5 or 6 feet, lies three-
quarters of a mile from the shore, midway between- Cadboro point and
Gordon head ; it is marked by kelp, and of small extent.

Three shoal patches, with from 6 to 12 feet water on them, lie
from one to IJ miles W. | S. from Zero rock, but there is a clear passage
of nearly one mile in width with 20 fathoms water, between the rock and
the nearest shoal.

The tidal streams are not much felt in Cormorant bay when westward
of the Zero rock, and the holding ground is good.

* See Views on Admiralty ehiirt : — Haro and Uosnrio straits, No. 2,689; wcale,
n»=0'5 iuch.

ClIAP. I.]

CORMOllANT JiAY.— PLUMPEll SOUND.

DirOCtionS. — To enter Cormorant bay southward, of Zero rock,
coming from the northward bring Mount Douglas to bear S. W. | S.,
anil steer for it; when tbo western points of Discovery and Cliatliara
islands are well shut in by Cadboro point, a vessel will be westward of
Zero rock, and can take up a berth in 9 or 10 fathoms water, at one mile
off shore, with Mount Douglas bearing S. by W., and Gordon head in line
with the lighthouse on Discovery island bearing S.E. by E. \ E.

To enter this bay northward of Zoro rock, the Kelp reefs, which lie
from 2 to 2^ miles N.E. by N. from the rock, must be avoided; the ])osi-
tions of both rock and reefs will generally be easily distinguished from
a vessel's deck one mile off. By steering for Cowitchin head (a very
remarkable high white cliff at the no* thern end of Cormorant bay), on a
W. ^ S. bearing, will lead in mid-channel, and good anchorage will bo
found in 8 to 10 fathoms water, at from one to 2 miles off shore with the
head on that bearing.

This anchorage is more exposed to S.E. winds than the one hist men-
tioned, but a vessel with good ground tackle will always be perfectly safe.

AUCllOragOS. — Although there are many liarbours among the archi-
pehii;o which form the Haro strait and its tributary channels, yet the
number eligible for sailing vessels overtaken by darkness, or an adverse
tide, is comparatively small.

Between Cormorant bay and the northern entrance of Haro strait.
Plumper sound and Cowlitz bay are the only eligible stopping places Ibr
a sailing vessel seeking shelter.

Stuart island has two fair harbours, and Roche harbour at the north-
west end of San Juan island is a suitable anchorage for steamers or
small coasters, but no sailing vessel of moderate tonnage could snter either
under ordinary circumstjmces without great loss of time as well as risk.

Tides. — The tidal streams set fairly through the main channel of
Haro strait, outside the Kelp reefs, and inside them through the Cordova
and Sidney channels ; passing outside the Kelp reefs and eastward of
Sidney island, a part of the flood stream will be found to branch off to
the eastward between San Juan and Stuart islands, and there meetinc:
the flood from the Middle channel, cause heavy races and eddies, so that
although there are deep water channels between these islands, they
are not recommended for sailing vessels. In like manner the flood runs to
the N.W. between the group of islands, northward of Sidney island, and
through Shute and Moresby passages, though the main stream will be
found to run fairly between Stuart and Moresby island?.

PLUMPER SOUND.— If from any cause it should be found
necessary to anchor in tluit bend of llie Haro strait bolwwMi Stuart island
and the cast point of Saturua island, Plumper sound is recommeudedas a safe

JUAN DE FUCA AND t' fVRO ST^IAITS.

[OUAT. I.

and convenient harbour, easy of access with the wind from any quarter.
It is formed between Pender and Saturna iHUiuds, and the entrance lies
5 miles N.N.E. ^ E. from Turn point of Stuart island, and an equal dis-
tance from the East point of Saturna. Blunden island, about 2 cables in
length, and close to the shore of Pender island, with only a boat passage
(choked with rocks and kelp) between, forms the western (Mitrance point ;
Monarch head (Saturna island), a high bold rocky hendlnnd, the eastern.
The sound trends in a W.N.W. direction for 6 miles, with an average
breadth of 1^ miles; there is anchorage in a moderate depth of Avater
in most parts of it, as well as in several bays or harbours if preferred.

There are no dangers at the entrance, but a vessel should not attempt to
pass between Blunden island and the shore, as a rock with only 9 feet
water on it lies in the centre of the passage ; which is generally choked by
kelp. Either shore may be approached close when working up, and but
little tide is felt ; for the first 2 miles the sound is one mile in brewlth,
and for this distance the water is too deep for convenient anchorage, being
generally from 25 to 50 fathoms, except on the south side, whore if
necessary an anchor may be dropped at one-quarter of a mile from the
shore, in from 10 to 12 fathoms water.

At 2 miles within tiie entrance the depth decreases rather suddenly
to 10 fathoms, and excellent anchorage may be had in almost any part;
the most convenient is off the entrance to port Browning on the south
side of the sound in 8 fathoms, at half a mile from the shore, with tlie
east point of Blunden island just open of the land to the westward of it,
bearing E. ^ S. Above port Browning the only danger to be uvoided in
working up the sound is Perry rock, with 6 feet water on it, marked by
kelp ; it is 2 cables from the shore, and three-quarters of a mile N.W. by N.
from Razor point, the north point of the port.

PORT BROWNING is on the south side of Plumper sound,
3 miles inside the entrance ; it takes a westerly direction for 1^ miles, and is
one-third of a mile wide, but rather less at the entrance. The depth of
water decreases gradually from 10 fathoms at the enti-ance to 4 fathoms at
its head, with good holding ground. The best anchorage is in the centre
just above Shark cove, which is a convenient creek, with 4 fathoms water
in it, on the south side of the harbour, three-quarters of a mile within the
entrance; here a ship might beach and repair on a sandy spit. The cove
is separated from Bedwell harbour (on the south coast of Pender island)
by a narrow neck of land 150 yards wide, across which the natives launch
their canoes.

LYALL HARBOUR and WINTER COVE, in the south-

east corner of Plumper sound, are indentailous in the north-west end of
Saturna island.

Lyall harbour is the southernmost, and its soutiicrii entrance point, a cliffy
bluff, bears N. ^ E., distant 2 miles from the ojtrance to port Browning.

Gir.vi'. I,]

POUT BllOWNlNG. — SAMULL ISLAND.

Kiii^ inlets, two low rugged islets, with a reef extending nearly one cable's
lengtli off their western end, form the northern entrance, which is half a mile
in breadth. The harbour takes an easterly direction for 1^ miles, gradually
narrowing and termiricting in a sandy beach with a good stream of fresh
water at its head ; the depths decrease reg'darly from 8 to 4 fatlioms.

The Crispin rock, with only G feet on it at low water, decreases
the value of this harbour for sailing vessels. The rock is a mere pinnacle,
lying nearly half a mile within the entrance, and there is no kelp to
indicate its position. It lies exactly in the middle of the harbour half
a mile E. by S. \ S. from the centre of the outer King islet, and ti ree-
quarters of a mile N.E. from the south entrance point of the harbour;
there is, however, a clear passage on cither side of it 1 1 cables wide, and a
vessel anchoring above it should drop her anchor in 5 fathoms, at half
a mile from the beach at the head of the harbour.

Tho SmchOTSigO outside the rock is with outer King islet bearing
N.W. by N., and the south entrance point bearing 8.S.W. ^ W., at about
one-third of a mile from the former, in 7 fathoms, muddy bottom.

Boot cove '5" the south side of the harbour, one-third of a mile inside
the south point, has .3 fathoms water, and is a convenient spot for repairing
a vessel ; a small islet lies off its western entrance point.

SAMUEL ISLAND, between Saturna and Mayne ishmds, is
almost connected with Ijotii, but leaving two passages by which boats or
even small coasters may pass into the strait of Georgia at proper times of
tide. This island is indented on its southern side by several buys.

Winter cove is formed between the souih-eastern side of Samuel island
and the north-wtist point of Saturna, and is only half a mile northward of
Lyall harbour. The depth of water in the cove being only from 2 to 3
fathoms, it is only fit for small vessels, which must pass to the westward of
King islets, and on either side of the Minx n-ef. The outlet to the strait of
Georgia from its nortii-east corner is merely a boat passage, and is not
above 90 feet in breadtli, and the tides rush thi-ough with great rapidity;
coasting vessels might pass into tho strait by taking the passage at slack
water, or boats overtaken in the strait by bad weather might take shelter
under the lee of Belle chain, and enter Plumper sound by this pass on the
flootl tide ; tho south-easternmost island of 15elle chain is only half a mile
north from the pass.

W^ater is easily obtainable during the winter or rainy months from
streams in almost any part of Plumper sound. At the head of Lyall
baibour or ^wrt Browning, constantly in the former, a certain quantity
may be procured during the driest months of summer from June to August.

JUAN DE FUCA AND IIAIIO STRAITS.

[OIIAI'. I.

I»'<i

NAVY CHANNEL is h continuation of the western part of
Plumper sound, ani^ Ie» ds br-tweeu Peuf^er and Mayno islands into the
Trincomalie cbannt).

Independently therefore of its value as an anchorage, Plumper sound
becomes a high road for vessels bound into the strait ot Georgia or Frascr
river by the Active pass ; or to Nanaimo, or any of the north-western ports
of Vancouver island. From the north-western end of the sound abreast
Fane island the channel takes a westerly direction for 3 miles, when it
enters Trincomalie channel between Mayne and Prevost islands; its average
breadth is half a mile.

Conconi and Enterprise reefs. — Conconi reef lies about mid-
way through Navy channel, If miles from Fane island, and nearly 2 cables
off the northern shore, and narrows the strait at that part to onc-tliird of a
mile. It is a ledge of rocks extending in the direction of the channel for
more than one cable's lengtli, and covering at half tide ; its vicinity is marked
by kelp, and a patch of 2 fathoms extends nearly 2 cables' lengths
westward from it. The general depth of water in the channel is from 20 to
30 fathoms.

The Enterprise reefs are two rocky patches, the westernmost of which
is covered at one-quarter flood, and both are marked by kelp. The outer-
most of these reefs lies one mile W.N.W. from Dinner point, the north-west
entrance point of Navy channel ; and two-thirds of a mile S. by E. from
Helen point, the south point of Active pass. A patch of 2 fathoms lies
2 cables' lengths E.S.E. from the westernmost rocky patch.

Beacons. — -A. beacon 22 feet above high water has been erected on
Enterprise reef, near its western extremity ; to the pyramidal framework
of the beacon are fixed two disks at right angles to each other, having the
appearance at a distance of upper and lower balls. The whole is coloured
white.

On Helen point (nailed on a dead fir tree) is a diagonal white
board, with a corresponding one on the opposite bight. These marks
when in line, bearing N. 9° W., lead over north-west extreme of Enterprise
reef; and when they come well open a vessel can steer for Active pass.*

Directions. — Vessels using Navy channel should keep rather south-
ward of mid-channel. The shores of Pender island are bold. When passing
out of the western entrance, if bound through Trincomalie channel or
Active pass, steer over towards Prevost island until Pelorus point (the
east point of Moresby island) is open of Mouatt point (the west point of
Pender island) bearing S.E. J^ S. ; then haul up N.W. ^ N. keeping the

* Captain H. Rose, R.N., H.M.S. Triumph, August 188G.
Tboiupson Maclean, K.N., H.M.S.Pc/tcan, February 1886.

Navigating Lieut.

(juAiM.j NAVY CHANNEL. — BEDAVELL IIAIIBOUII, &0.

marks just open, which will lend over one-third of n mile to the westward
of Enterprise reefs.*

When Helen point, which is a low bare yellow point, bears N. by E.,
or the northern beacon comes well open west of the southern one, a
vessel may steer for the entrance of Active pass, or shape her course up
the Trincomalie channel.

Tides. — The flood tide from the Swanson channel runs through Navy
channel to the eastward, and meets the flood in Plumper sound, causing a
slight ripple at the east entrance ; its strength is upwards of 3 knots.

BED WELL HARBOUR, the entrance to which lies 3 miles
North from Turn point of Stuart island, and is the same distance westward
from the southei . entrance of Plumper sound, is, on account of its narrower
entrauct. not so eligible a stopping place for vessels waiting the tide as the
latter; but for steamers it is a good harbour. Its narrowest part, which is
at the entrance, is one-quarter of a mile in breadth, but it soon opens out
to half a mile, and trends in a W.N. W. direction for 2 miles, with depths
of from 5 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom.

Drew rock. — The only danger which does not show is the Drew
rock, with 10 feet water on it, in the centre of the harbour one-third of a
mile from its head ; there is, however, no necessity for a vessel to go as fur
up as this.

Anchorage. — The most convenient anchorage is in a bay on the
north shore, two-thirds of a mile within the entrance, in 8 fathoms water,
midway between Hay point and tho Skull reef; the latter always shows
some feet above high water.

CAMP BAY, between Bedwell harbour and Plumper sound, and
half a mile westward of Bluuden island, offei'S shelter as a stopping place
to small craft, when not convenient for them to work into either of those
ports.

STUART ISLAND, lying 3 miles north-westward from the
northern part of the island of San Juan, is 3 miles long in an east and west
direction, of an irregular shape and 642 feet high, the summits of tho hills
being partially bare of trees. . ?

There are two anchorages in Stuart island, Reid harbour on its
southern side, and Prevost harbour on its northern, but both are small and
intricate for sailing vessels larger than coasters.

Turn point, the north-west extreme of Stuart island, a bold cliflfy
bluff, forms the salient angle of the Haro strait, where it changes its
direction suddenly from N.W. by N. to N.E. before entering the strait of
Georgia.

Reid harbour. — ^To enter Reid harbour from the southward, beware
of being drawn by tho flood into the channel between San Juan and Stuart

* See View C, on Admiralty chart:
scale, m=ro inch.

-Haro Strait and Middle Channel, No. 2,840;

JUAN Dli tUCA AND IIAJIO STllAITS.

[cH.vr. 1.

i^iliinds, where there are several dangers, and the tides are most irreguhir
in their direction. The south-west side of Stuart island should therefore
be first closed ; it is bold and free from danger.

The harbour lies one mile N.W. from Spieden bluff (a remarkable
bare grassy point, generally of a yellow colour), the western extreme of
the island of the same name. Gossip island lies in the entrance, from which
a shoal extends IJ cables' lengths W. by N., leave it on the right hand
when entering. The channel is 1^ cables wide with depths of from 4 to
5 fathoms, and no dangers but what are visible. When a short distance
within, the harbour increases to one quarter of a mile in breadth, and
ti'cnds in a westerly direction for about one mile, the general depth of
water being 4 fathoms. The best anchornge is off an Indian village ou
the south side at about half a mile within the entrance.

PreVOSt harbour, on the northern side of Stuart island, 1^ miles
eastward from Turn point, has James island lying in the centre oP it. The
entrance is to the westward of this island, between it and Charles point,
and is about 2 cables in breadth, the harbour extending south for a short
distance, and then taking an easterly direction. Anchor in 6 fathoms as
soon as the eastern arm opens out, or if desired run up the arm into
4^ fathoms ; here it is narrow, but perfectly sheltered. The passage to
the eastward of James island is a blind one, but a vessel may anchor, if
necessary, at its entrance in 10 or 12 fathoms water.

JOSNS ISLAND, with its numerous ofF-lying reefs, lies to the
eastward of Stuart island, and is separated from it by a navigable channel
of 10 fathoms, but it is narrow and not recommended except for coasters
acqu) Inted with the locality.

Several islets and rocks, all above water, extend three-quarters of a mile
south-east from the east end of John's island ; the most southern of these
are calle.. Cactus islands, between which and Spieden island is the east
entrance to New channel.

Gull reef, 2 feet above high water, lies half a mile W. ^ N. from
Cactus islands ; rocks extend from it in an easterly direction for more than
one cable's length.

SPIEDEN ISLAND, lying between San Juan and Stuart islands,
is 2\ miles long in an east and west direction, and very narrow; its
southern side grassy and bare of trees, its summit and northern side
thickly wooded; Green point, its eastern extreme, is a sloping grassy
point.

There is a channel on both sides of Spieden island ; New channel to
the northward, and Spieden channel to the southward. It may sometimes
be convenient to take either of these channels when passing from the Middle

OllAl'. l.J

SFIEDEN ISLAND ANU OllANNEL.

chiinnol to Huro strait, or vice versA, us the distance round Stuart island
will be saved ; but from tiie strcngtli and irregularity of the tides, and tlio
number of hidden dangers which exist in certain parts of tl)em, they
cannot be recommended for sailing vessels, nor indeed to any vessel
without a pilot, except those thoroughly acquainted with the locality.

SFIEDEN CHANNEL, between Spieden island and San Juan,
has a general W. by S. and E. I)y N. ''.irection. Its emitern entrance,
between Green point and the north-cast point of San Juan, is two-thirds
of a mile wide, and for 2 miles the water is deep and clear of dangers; the
meeting of the flood-tide, however, from Ilaro strait with that from the
Middle channel, causes heavy ripplings and irregular eddies, and these,
together with the general absence of steady winds, renders the naviga-
tion always tedious and dangerous for sailing vessels ; its western
entrance is encumbered with numerous reefs and shoals with irregular
soundings.

Sentinel island lies in the western entrance of this channel. It is
small, bare on its southern side, and about 150 feet high, it bears
E.S.E. two-thirds of a mile from Spieden bluff; the ])nssage between it and
Spieden island is more than one cable wide, with a depth of 25 fathoms.
A vessel using the Spieden channel is rocommendcd to keep Spieden
island shore aboard, and to pass between it and Sentinel island. There
is much less tide here than in the centre of the channel, or on the San
Juan shore. Sentinel rock lies 2 cables W. by N. ^ N., from the island,
the passage between, being choked with kelp.

Centre reef i« ^ dangerous patch, awash i.i low water, lying almost
in the centre of the channel. It lies nearly ?• U' a mile S.W. by S.
from Sentinel island, more than two-thirds of a mile S.E. by S. from Spieden
bluff, and one mile N.N.E. ^ E. from Morse island; kelp will generally
be seen around the reef, but it is sometimes run under by the tide.
There is a passage; 2 cables wide between the reef and Sentinel island,
with a depth of 17 fathoms. Both the flood from Haro strait, and the ebb
through Spieden channel set on to the reef; therefore, when nearing
it, the San Juan shore should be kept aboard, avoiding the shoal which
lies li cables N. by W. J W. from Bare islet.

Danger Slioal is also at the western entrance ; it has 2 fathoms water
on it, and is marked by kelp, though this is not always seen. It lies three-
quarters of a mile S.S.W. | W. from Spieden bluft', nearly one mile N. by W.
from Morse island, and a little more than one mile W.S.W. from Sentinel
island. , , *

Bare islet) a ^'ock about 15 feet high, lies in the southern part of the
channel, one mile E. by N. ^ N. from Morse island. There is a slx/al

JUAN DB FUCA AND UAllO STRAITS.

[chat. I.

patch of 15 foot which lies nonrly 1^ cables N. by W. \ W. from tho
islot ; this patch is always covered with kelp ; depths of from 3 to 5 fathoms
extend nearly 2 cables' lengths westward from the patch.

Directions. — Vessels bound from Ilaro strait to tlio eastward
through tho Spiedeu channel, should pass about one-quarter of a milo
to the northward of Morse island, and then steer N.E. by E. ^ E. for Green
point (the east extreme of Spieden island) until Sentinel island bears
N.N. W. ; tho dangers in the western entrance will then bo passed, and a
straight course may bo steered through ; bearing in mind that less tide
will be found near Spieden island shore.

Bound westward through this channel, if the passage between Spieden and
Sentinel islands is not taken, tho shore of Spieden island should bo
kept aboard to avoid tho tide races. If Centre reef is awash, or tho
kelp on it is seen, pass one-quarter of v. milo South of it, and steer
to pass the same distance northward of Morse island. If Centre reef
is not seen, take care not to bring Morse island to bear to tho
southward of S.W., until Bare islet bears S.E.

NEW CHANNEL to the northward of Spiedei island, though
narrower than the one just described, is deep, raoro free i'rom danger, and
the navigation of it more simijlo. The northern shore of Spieden island is
bold and steep, and should bo kept aboard ; tho narrow( st part of tho
channel is one-quarter of a mile wide between Spieden and Cactus
islands, and care should be taken not to get entangled among tho reefs to
the northward of the latter. The flood tide sets to the north-eastward
among them ; but it also sets fairly through New channel, and by keeping
the Spieden island shore aboard, there will be no danger of being set to tho
northward ; tho ebb tide runs to the south-westward between Spieden and
Johns islands.

SAN JUAN ISLAND, the western coast of which forms for
some distance the eastern boundary of Haro strait, is of considerable size,
being 13 miles in length in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with an average
breadth of about 4 miles. Its western shores aro steep and rocky, and
afford no anchorage ; depths of from 100 to 150 fathoms being found within
half a mile of the coast. Mount Dallas rises abruptly to a height of 1,086
feet, but the eastern side of the island falls in a more gentle slope, and
affords a considerable extent of good land available for agricultural or
grazing purposes. Towards the southern end, and visible from seaward,
are some white buildings, the farming establishment of the Hudson bay
company ; the south-eastern extreme, which forms one of the entrance
points of the Middle channel, terminates in a white clay cliff, over which
rises mount Finlayson to a height of 550 feet, remarkable as being entirely
clear of trees on its southern side, while it is thickly wooded on tho

oiup. I.] SAN JUAN ISLAND. — ROCHE HARBOUR.

northorn. There is a clean gravel beach under mount Finlayson, where
boats can generally land.

Henry island. — Off the north-west end of San Junn lies Henry
island, only separated from it by a narrow channel (Mos(j[uito passage) ;
it might be easily taken for a part of San Juan, the passage appearing
merely as an indentation in the latter. Kellett bluff, the south-west point of
the island, appears as the most prominent headland on the eastern side of
Ilaro strait, when seen from the southward. Immediately eastward of it is
Open bay, which has more the appearance^ of a channel than Mosquito
passage, the true one. There is no shelter in the bay, or anchorage in
the passage, for anything but coasters.

Mosquito passage trends in a northerly and N.N.W. direction
for 3 miles, is a little over half a mile in breaut' . and is studded
with numerous reefs marked by kelp. When one mile insiii' the passage,
Westcott creek, an indentation in San Juan, branches off to the N.E., and
affords a haven for coasters. There is a 2-fathor' - .lanucl through the
passage, ^^nd . ito this creek; the only directions necessary p.re to .vvoid the
kelp patches; the tide sets strongly tli rough it.

Roche harbour.* — The northern entrance of ]\tosquito passage,
between San Juan and Henry islands, opens out into ,\ landlocked
harbour half a mile in extent with depths of from 6 to 8 fatiioms over the
greater part of it. This space forms Eoche harbour, which must be entered
from the northward by vessels of burthen ; its entrance is somewhat confined,
but not very difficult of access, and it affords good shelter when within.

Morse island, a small flat cliffy island, about 30 feet high, lies one-
quarter of a mile W.N.W. from the north point of Henry island; and the
entrance of Roche harbour is half a mile eastward from the former.

Pearl island, about 4 cables long east and west, and l)^ cables broad,
and wooded, lies in the centre of the passage, forming two entrances, the
eastern of which, however, is barred ; off the north side of Pearl island is
a small islet (Neck) connected to it at low water.

. Directions. — To enter Roche harbour pass as near as convenient
northward of Morse island, as there are no dangers outside it, steering
E. ^ S. for a little more than half a mile ; the entrance will then open out
between Henry island and the west point of Pearl islao''.

The breadth of the entrance between Inman point (Henry island) and the
shore of Pearl island is over 2 cables, cat the navigable channel is con-
tracted to little over half a cable by shoal water which extends off both
shores.

* See Admiralty piau of Roche harbour and approaches, No. 602 ; scale, m >= 6 inches ,

JUAN DE FUCA AND HARO STRAITS.

[chap. I.

Scout patcll, a dangerous spit projecting from the western shore
just south of Tnman point, Laa only u depth of 17 feet on it at low water;
and although there is a depth of 5 fathoms iu mid-channel, great care must
be exercised to avoid thio patch by vessels drawing over 14 feet. Vessels
of less draught may approach the shores on either side to within three-
quarters of a cable; and immediately within Pearl island, the harbour
opens out to a considerable breadth.

Ancll0ra>ge. — A good anchorage is in 6 fathoms, with the west end
of Pearl islaid bearing N.W., distant about onn-quartor of a mile, and
the north part of Henry island just open of if. If working in, remember
that a shoal of 15 feet lies 1| cables north wsird from Bare islet, and that fair
a!ichorage may be had in 9 fathoms oft' the entianco ; but a vessel should
get in far enough to be out of the tides of Spicden channel. Small vessels
leaving Roche harbour, and bound seuthwai'd, may take the Mosquito
passage.

Tides. — I'he time of high water at full and change in Roche harbour
is irregular ; springs rise 12 feet.

WALDRON ISLAND lies in the northern entrance of the Middle
channel, but as its anchorages are frequently available for vessels passing
to or from Haro strait, it seems desirable that it should be described while
treating of that neighbourhood.

The island is thickly wooded, moderately high, and clKfy on its southern
and eastern sides, but falling to the northward, where it terminates in
low sandy points. Disney point, its southern extreme, is a remarkable
high stratified bluff".

Cowlitz bay, on the western side of Waldron, between Disney
and Sandy points, affords good anchorage with nil winds, the depth of
water from 5 to 8 fathoms, and the holding ground stiff mud ; it may be
sometimes more desirable for sailing vessels to anchor here than to work
2 or 3 miles up into Plumper sound, particularly for those coming up Middle
channel. If entering from the northward or westv/ard, Sandy point may
be passed at a distance of one-third of a mile, and standing into the bay
anchor oq the line between it and Disney point in 5 or G fathoms ; the latter
point bearing S.E. by E., and the centre of White rock S. ^ W. If a south-
easter is blowing, a vessel may stand far enough in to get smooth water
under shelter of Disney point ; no sea, however, to affect a vessel's safety
gets up in this bay with any wind. The only danger in the bay is Mouatt
reef, with a depth of only 3 feet on it ; it lies half a mile N.W. ^ N. from
Disney point with deep water between it and the shore.

If entering from the southward, Disney point shoidil be kept at within
less than half a mile, particularly on the ebb, for as soon as Douglas

CHAP. I.]

WALDRON ISLAND.

channel (tho continuation c^ Middle channel) is opened out, through which
the tide sets sometimes at the rate of 5 knots, a vessel is apt to be set
down on Danger rock.

White rock, fronting Cowlitz bay, is 35 feet above high water, and
bare, it has a sunken reef extending 2 cables' lengths to the north-west
from it.

Danger rock.— This dangerous reef, with a depth of only 5 feet
on it, and on which the kelp is rarely seen, lies one-third of a mile
S.E. by E. ^ E., from White rock.

Caution.— It is particularly recommended to give these rocks a wide
berth, as with the strong tides, the water is too deep for anchorage in case
of getting entangled among them in light winds.

NORTH BAY on the north-west side of the island, affords anchor-
age in 8 to 10 fathoms water about one quarter of a mile off shore, but is
not by any means such a desirable place as Cowlitz bay, tho bank being
rather steep, and the tide more felt.

CHAPTER II.

THE "WESTEHN CHANNELS AND ISLANDS TO GABEIOLA PASS.

Variation 23° 5' to 23° 15' East, in 1888.

The WESTERN CHANNELS of HARO STRAIT*

may be used with advantage by steamers or coasters bound fi'om the southern
ports of Vancouver isUmd to the strait of Georgia, or to the districts of
Saanich, Cowitchin, Nanaimo, and the numerous intermediate harbours ;
their advantages over the Haro strait consist in tlie strength of tide l)eing
less, besides sheltered anchorage being obtainable in almost all parts ; while
in the latter strait the depth of water is so great that it is impossible to
anchor, and sailing vessels may frequently be set back into Fuca strait,
thus entailing great delay as well as risk. On the other hand, the western
channels are not free from danger, yet, with the assistance of the chart,
and a good look-out from aloft for kelp, a precaution which should
never be neglected, they may be navigated during daylight with ease and
safety.

To vessels passing from the southward, and intending to take the
western channels, the dangers to be avoided after passing Discovery and
Chatham islands, are Johnstone reef (page 52), lying nearly one mile from
the shore, midway between Cadboro point and Gordon head. Zero rock
(page 50), which lies in the fairway ; and the shoals which extend ofFDarcy,
Sidney, and James islands.

SIDNEY CHANNEL between James and Sidney islands is the
best ; it is ■ j,rly one mile wide, with depths of from 14 to 20 fathoms,
until near its northern end, where shoal patches with only 6 to 9 feet
water on them, marked by kelp, lie 3 to 5 cables' lengths off the western
point of Sidney island. Whale islet, a small rock only 6 feet above high
water, lies at the southern entrance to Sidney channel, and is joined to

♦ See Admiralty chart : — Ilaro iiudRosnrio straits, No. 2,689 s scale, m - O'S inches ;
also Admiralty chart: — Haro strait aud Middle chamiel, No. 2,840; scale, m = l*0

inch.

OHAP. II.]

SIDNEY AND CORDOVA CHANNELS.

Sidney island by a sand spit. Sidney spit, the north-west end of the
island, is a low sandy tongue wit'' a few trees on its extreme. There is
good anchorage off this spit in 8 fathoms water.

Boa.COIl. — A beacon consisting of a cone 40 feet high, surmounted by
a pole-and cage 10 feet high, the whole coloured white, has been erected on
Sidney spit.

CORDOVA CHANNEL between James island and the main
island of Vancouver, is a fair passage with little tide ; it is not, however,
to be preferred to Sidney channel, neither is any saving in distance gained
by taking it, and it cannot be recommended for vessels drawing over 14 feet,
as the navigable channel at its southern entrance between the banks
extending off from the sfouth-west bluff of James island, and the main
island shore, is only 3 cables wide, and has a sand bank over one cable in
extent, with 15 feet water on it lying in the centre of the pa: age. A
little northward from Cowitchin head a low flat of swampy land extends
for two miles in a N.N.W. direction, and about one-quarter to half a
mile off the high land ; shoal water extends from one to 2 cables' lengths
outside this flat which forms the western side of the southern entrance of
the channel.

The southern face of James island is a moderately high and steep
white clay cliff', its summit covered witlx trees ; towards the eastern
part of this cliff are two remarkable notches on its summit. A bank,
having from one to 3 fathoms water on it, extends one mile to the eastward,
and nearly half a mile to the southward, and westward from the south-west
bluff of James island. A shoal three-quarters of a mile in extent, having
depths of from 1^ to 3 fathoms on it, lies south-eastward from the island, the
centre of it bears S.E. by E. ^ E., distant 1^ miles from south-west bluff
James island.

DIRECTIONS. — If the passage inside Discovery and Chatham
islands has been taken, and intending to take the Sidney channel ; when
abreast Ciulboro point, steer N.N.W., keeping the passage between that point
and Chatham islands open astern, until mount Tuam (on the southern point
of Admiral island) is in line over the centre between the two remarkable
notches on James island bearing N.W. by W.,* this mark will lead nearly
one mile eastward from Zero rock, 3 cables westward from the 3 fathom
patches off Darcy island, and between them and the shoal of 9 feet
extending south-eastward from James island.

When Morse island is in line with the south-east point of Sidney island,
bearing N.E. J N., alter course to N.N.W., to avoid the shoal which

* See View D, on Actmiralty chart : — Haro strait and Middle channel, Nc. 2,840 ;
scale, m — 1*0 inch.

A 17498. 'B

06 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABEIOLA PASS, [ciiaimi.

extends one mile E. by N. ^ N., from south-west bluff of James island ;
pass about 3 cables' lengths westward from Whale islet, and then steer up
mid-channel, and avoid the shoal patches off the west end of Siduey island,
by not shutting Whale islet in Avith Darcy island, until the end of Sidney
spit bears North.

If passing outside Discovery and Chatham islands, at about one mile off
shore, steer N.W. ^ N., until the leading marks (mount Tua.n in line
between the two remarkable notches on James island, bearing N.W. by W.)
are on, when proceed as before directed.

MINERS CHANNEL.— Low and Bare islands are two

small islands lying off the eastern side of Sidney island, and between them
and the latter there is a good passage, half a mile in breadth, with
8 fathoms the least water ; a 3 fathom patch one cable in extent lies
2^ cables N. by E., from the east point of Sidney island, the southern
entrance of the channel. This channel may often prove convenient for
vessels having passed up Haro strait eastward of the Kelp reefs, and
desiring to take the inner channels to Saanich, Cowitchin, or through
Stuart channel.

AncllOl age. — The eastern side of Sidney island affords good anchor-
age in 8 fathoms water out of the tide, off a bay S.S.W. from the
north end of Bare island ; the bay is shoal as far out as a line between its
entrance points.

Reef. — Midway between Low and Bare islands, and on the line,
between their north-west points, is a reef which uncovers ; and a rock which
nearly uncovers lies 4 cables N. ^ W., from [the north-west end of Low
island. There is a rock 3 feet above high water bearing W. by N. ^ N.,
distant one-third of a mile from the north-west end of Bare island.

After passing Bare island a course should be steered between Sidney
s[)it and Jones island. Having passed to the northward of Sidney island,
either by Cordova, Siduey, or Miners channels, the Shute or Moresby
passages may be taken as convenient ; if bound for Saanich, Cowitchin,
or through Stuart channel, the former is preferable, while the latter offers
a more direct course through the Swanson or Trincomalie channels, or
to Fraser river by Active pass.

SHUTE PASSAGE. — To enter this passage, after leaving Sidney
spit, pass bet veen Jones island and the Little group, then eastward of
Coal island, Kuapp and Pym islands, and between Piers and Portland
islands, when the Satellite channel will be entered, which leads directly to
Saanich, Cowitchin, and the western ports of Vancouver island. This is
a good clear channel, and with the assistance of the chart may be used
with much facility.

CHAP. II.]

MINERS CHANNEL. — SHUTE PASSAGE.

Joues isla>nd lies two-thirds of a mile north from Sidney spit, with
fi cloar passage between, of from 15 t) 20 fathoms water; shoal rocky
ground extends one cable's length westwrard from the north-west point of
Jones island, and the tides set with considerable strength (2 to 5 knots)
round this point ; detached rocks extend two cables' lengths, eastward from
the east end of the island.

Tree, Hill, Domville, Comet, and Gooch islands, which lie

i n the fairway between Sidney and Moresby islands, are moderately low,
and ivcoded, but the passages between them are not recommended unless
to those well acquainted with the navigation of this locality.

Reefs. — North Cod reef is about 2 cables' lengths in extent, and
covers at one-quarter flood, it lies 4 cables S. ^ E., from the west end of
Gooch island.

South Cod reef, also about 2 cables in extent, has only 6 feet on it at low
water, it lies 7 cables S. ^ E., from the west end of Gooch island, and
9 cables E. ^ N., from the south-east end of Jones island j both reefs are
mftrked by kelp.

A patch of two fathoms, marked by kelp, lies nearly midway between
the southern end of Jones and Domville islands ; the 'passage between
Gooch and Comet islands is filled with kelp.

The Little group lie two-thirds of a mile W. by N. from Jones
island. They consist of four rocky islets, one-third of a mile in extent
east and west, bare of trees, and connected by reefs ; there is a good
passage of 12 fathoms water between them and Jones island, and their
eastern side may be passed at one cable's length.

Bird islet, lying on the eastern side of Shute passage, and two-thirds
of a mile N.N.W. from the north point of Jones island, is about 6 feet
above high water, and has a cluster of reefs around it almost one cable's
length in extent, marked by kelp ; between it and Coal island there is a
clear passage one mile wide, with from 20 to 30 fathoms water.

Coal island, which helps to form the western side of Shute passage,
lie., v-.^se off the north-east extreme of the Saanich peninsula, and imme-
diately at the entrance of Shoal harbour i it is one mile in extent and
thickly Avoodcd, and its eastern and northern shores are free from danger.

When working up the passage between Bird islet and Coal island, a vessel
sho/dd not stand to the westward of a line joining the east end of Little
group to the east point of Coal island, as a rock which covers at one-
quarter flood lies 4 cables W.N.W. fr -n the east end of the group, and
nearly two-thirds of a mile S.S.E. from the east point of the island.

Reefs. — A small patch with 4 fathoms water over it, and probably
less, and marked by kelp, lies one mile N.E. from the east point of Coal
island, morv) than three- luarters of a mile N.N.W. ^ W. from Bird islet,

E 2

68 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABIIIOLA PASS. [chap. ir.

and oue-tliiid of a mile S.AV. from Yellow islet. When abreast the east
point of Coal island, and distant one-third of a mile, a W.N.W. course
will lead through Shute passage in mid-channel, passing eastward of
Pym island,* off the eastern side of which, a reef which uncovers, extends
a little more than one cable's length.

Colia reef which lies between Pym and Portland islands, must also
be avoided. The least water found on it is 8 feet ; it is marked by kelp,
and lies two-thirds of a mile North from the north point of Pym island.

Yellow island kept just open to the eastward of Sentinel island, bearing
E. ^ S., leads more than one cable to the southward of Celia reef; and
Beaver point (Admiral island), in line with Steep bluff (Portland island),
bearing N. ^ W., clears it to the westward.

Knapp and. Pjrm islands are small and wooded, lying between
Piers and Coal islands. The passage between Piers and Portland islands
is over one mile in breadth, with depths of from 10 to 20 fathoms, and no
dangers which are not visible ; about one cable's length off ^he eastern
side of Piers island, is a rock always uiicovered. Having passed west-
ward between these islands a vessel is fairly in Satellite channel.

MORESBY PASSAGE.— After leaving the northern end of
Sidney island, the directions for Morcpby passage are the same as those
•already given for Shute passage, until abreast the east point of Coal
island. From about one-third of a mile off this point, the direct course
through the passage is N. ^ W., (Canoe rock beacon same bearing) for
2 J miles, or, until Beaver point is in line with the easternmost channel
islet in Ganges harbour, bearing N.W. | N., this mark will lead midway
between Turnbull reef, and the Canoe rocks, which extend ofE Portland,
and Moresby islands, narrowing the channel at its northern entrance to
little over one-third of a mile.

The Sisters, off the eastern point of Portland island, are three rod:/
islets, which extend to a distance of nearly 2 cables. They are about 25
feet high, have a few stunted cedar trees on their summits, are joined by
reefs, anr^ will be immediately recognized either from the northward or
southward.

Turnbull reef. — Eastward from the Sisters, at a distance of more
than one-third of a mile, extends the Turnbull reef in a semicircular
direction towards the north-west point of Portland island, and almost
joining it ; 2 fathoms is the least water found on its outer edge, and it is
marked by a heavy bank of kelp, which, however (on account of the tide),
is not always visible until close to it.

* As patches of kelp have leen seen extending some distance from the south side
of Pym island, caution mus', be observed when i)as<'ing between that island and Coal
island.

CHAP. II.]

MORESBr AND PREVOST PASSAGES.

Canoe rocks, «■ dangerous ledge extending nearly half a mile \V. \ N.,
from Reef point, the north-west point of Moresby island ; the outer
rock of this ledge covers a little after half flood, and is not marked by
kelp, though kelp grows between the point and the rock.

Beacon. — A stone beacon 25 feet high, surmounted by a cross and
coloured black, is erected on the Canoe rocks.

Directions. — With the beacon on Canoe rocks visible, the passage is
very easy, as the above dangers may be passed as close as convenient, and
there are 11 fatlioms Avatcr in mid-channel ; but if the beacon is not visible,
which may sometimes happen, then it is desirable when coming from the
southward to borrow on the Moresby island shore, passing Seymour jioint,
the western cliffy point of the island, at the distance of 2 cables.

Leading Mark. — Beaver point (the south-east point of Admiral
island), in line with the easternmost Channel islet in Ganges harbour,
bearing N.W. -^N., leads midway between TurnbuU reef and Canoe rocks;
and a vessel will be to northward of these shoals when Chads island,
just off the north-west point of Portland island, is seen just open of that
point.

PREVOST PASSAGE lies between Moresby island and the group
of smaller islands to the southward of it, and leads by the Shute or Moresby
passages into Satellite channel.

To a vessel passing up the main stream of Huro strait and bound for the
Swanson channel, the easiest and most direct route is between Stuart and
Moresby islarJs ; but circumstances of wind or tide may render it con-
venient to take the Prevost passage ; for instance, with light winds she
may be set into the passage by the flood, or, if near to Moresby island, by
the ebb tide from the upper part of Haro strait, which runs here as it does
in all other parts of the channel, from 2^ to 3 hours after low water by the
shore, sets to the westward among the small islands, and down the Miners
and Sidney channels.

/^rachne reef. — The dangers to be avoided in Prevost passage are
Arachne and Cooper reefs. Arachnc reef lies nearly in the centre of the
passage, in a dii'ect line between Fairfax point (the south-east point of
Moresby island) and Tom point (the east point of Gooch island) ; and
2\ miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Turn point of Stuart island. This reef
covers at one-quarter flood, and has a good deal of kelp on its north-west
edge, which, however, is frequently run under by the tide.

Cooper reef, lying half "■ ™ile N.W. by N. from Tom point (Gooch
island), is marked by kelp, and uncovers at half ebb ; there is a passage one
mile wide betwe i it and Arachne reef, the channel being about the same

70 WESTEBN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

width between the latter and Moresby island, with deep water. There
are no dangers off the south or west sides of Moresby island. '•• •'■

Tom point, in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing
S.S.E. ^ E., leads only just clear to the eastward of Cooper I'eef.

North part of Portland island, in line with south side of Moresby island,
bearing W. by N. | N., leads to the northward of Cooper and Arachne
reef's.

Yellow islet, a small bare islet 8 feet high, lies 1^ miles S.W. by W.
from Fairfax point, and should be passed on the north side to clear the
shoal of 3 fathoms which extends nearly 2 cables' lengths westward from
the islet, and to avoid the small patch of 4 fathoms* marked with kelp,
(see page 67) lying one-third of a mile S.W. from it ; having passed west-
ward of this island either the Shute or Moresby passages may be taken as
convenient.

SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral island on the
north ; and Moresby, Portland, and Piers islands, and the northern shore of
Snanich peninsula on the south. It leads to Saanicli inlet, Cowitchiu
harbour, and by the Sansum narrows to Stuart channel. It is a good, deep
passage with but few dangers, which are not always visible ; among these
are Shute reef and Patey rock. The general breadth of the channel is one
mile, with depths, of frt ra 30 to 40 fathoms, and the strength of tide from
one to 2 knots, and sometimes 3 knots.

SllUte reef is a ledge less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks,
one of which is covered at 8 feet flood, its vicinity being marked by kelp.
It lies two-thii'ds of a mile W.S.W., from Harry point, the north point of
Piers island, and nearly 3 cables N. by E. ^ E,, from Arbutus, a small islet
with two or three of the red stemmed arbutus growing on it, and lying
half a mile westward from Piers island. .

Patey rock, at the western end of Satellite channel, is a single rock,
covered at 6 feet rise with kelp around it, and is in the way of vessels
working into Saanich inlet or Cowitchin harbour. It lies two-thirds of
a mile N.E. by N., from Hatch point, the westernmost point of Saanich
inlet ; nearly 2 miles N.W. by W. ^ W., from Coal point, a remarkable nob
point, the south extreme of Deep cove ; and 3J miles S.W. by W. ^ W.
from Arbutus islet. •; - * ; ,. '?v<:^4v ;J,*h'k^.

Clearing marks. — Harry point the north extreme of Piers island,
open northward of Arbutus islet, bearing N.E. by E., leads 3 cables south-
ward of Patey rock ; and the high round summit of Moresby island, well
open northward of Arbutus islet, bearing E.N.E., leads 3 ^ cables to the
northward of it.

Possibly shoalcr.

CHAP rx.] SATELLITE CHANNEL. — SAANICH INLET.

Cecil rock, with 2 ftvthoms water on it, lies one-third of a mile
S.E. by E. f E. from the south point of Russell island at the entrance
of Fulford harbour, and must be avoided when working up Satellite
channel.

BoatSWa/iH bEnk, on the western side of the channel, off the
Vancouver shore, between Cherry and Hatch points, affords good anchorngo
in from 4 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom ; the outer edge of the bank in
10 fathoms is steep-to, it extends three-quarters of a mile E. by N., from
Cherry point, and then trends in a S.S.E. direction, over three-quarters of
a mile ; from 1^ to 3 cables' lengths inside the 10 fathom line, the water
shoals rapidly from 6 to 3 fathoms, the latter depth being found 4
cables' lengths from the shore. A good berth in 7 fathoms water, will
be foumd, with cape Keppel bearing N.E. by E. J E., and Hatch point
bearing S.E. by S.

SAANICH INLET is a deep indentation extending in a nearly
S.S.E. direction for 14 miles, and carrying deep water to its head, which
terminates in a narrow creek within 4 miles of Esquimalt harbour. The
inlet forms the south-east portion of Vancouver island into a peninsula of
about 20 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and varying in
breadth from 8 miles at its southern part, to 3 at its northern.

On the southern coast of this peninsula are the harbours of Esquimalt
and Victoria, in the neigbourhood of which for some 5 miles the country
is pretty thickly wooded, its prevailing features being lake and mountain,
with, however, some considerable tracts of clear and fertile land ; the
northern portion for about 10 miles contains some of the best agricultural
land in Vancouver island, the shore is fringed with pine forests, but in the
centre it is clear prairie or oak land, and much of it is under cultivation ;
seams of coal have also been found. ^ , ,

Off the eastern or peninsula side of the inlet there are some good
anchorages, the centre being for the most part deep. Immediately south-
ward from James point (the north-western point of the peninsula), is Deep
cove, but no convenient anchorage.

Norris rock, awash at half tide, lies 2 cables S.W. by S. from James
point, with 12 fathoms water between it and the point. Vessels rounding
this point should give it a berth of half a mile.

Union bay, at 2 miles southward from James point affords good
anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms water, half a mile from the beach ; a shoal
bank extends off 2 to 3 cables' lengths from the shore around the bay.
There is a stream of fresh water in the south-east corner of the bay.

Cole bay, li miles southward from Union bay, and immediately
under mount Newton is small, but capable of affording shelter to a few

72 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

vessels of moderate size ; off its north point ftre the White rocks, two small
bare islets. Anchor in the centre of the bay in 8 fathoms, with White
rocks bearing W.S.W. These bays are somewhat open to S.W. winds, but
a gale rarely blows from this quarter, nor from the proximity of the
opposite shore, distant scarcely 3 miles, could much sea get up.

Tod creek is 2 miles southward from Cole bay. Scnanus island, a
small wooded islet, 150 feet high, lies off its entrance, foul ground extends
nearly one cable's length off the north-west side of the island, on the other
sides the Avater is deep. A small islet, and a rock lying one cable's length
north from it, lies in the entrance to the south-east part of the creek. A short
distance inside it narrows rapidly and winds to the southward and south-
east for three-quarters of a mile, with a breadth of less than one cable,
carrying 6 fathoms nearly to its head.

There is anchorage in the outer part of the creek in 15 fathoms.

Squally reach. — From Willis point, the western point of Tod creek,
tbe inlet known as Squally reach trends to the south-west for 2^ miles,
the breadth of the arm here being throe-quartrrs of a mile, with no bottom
at 100 fathoms. Finlayson arm, its continuation, trends S. by E. ^ E.
for 3 miles, and terminates Sar.:iich inlet. Beacon rock, which covers
at three-quarters flood, lies one cable, S.W. ^ S., from Elbow point, Fin-
layson arm. A small islet named Dinner, with deep water on cither side,
lies near the head of this arm, 1^ cables southward from which there is
good anchorage in 9 fathoms. At 3 cables south from the islet, the arm
terminates in a flat, which dries at low water. Immediately over the
head of the inlet, on the eastern side. Leading peak rises to an elevati;»n
of 1,346 feet.

Mill creek bay is a fair anciiorage, and the only one on the
western side of Saanich inlet ; a bank of sand and rock which has only
from one to 3 fathoms water on it, extends two cables' lengths off, from
the western shore, across the bay ; a large stream flows into the north-
west corner of the bay.* . '■

COWITCHIN HARBOUR is 4 miles westward from cape
Keppel, the southern extreme of Admiral island; Separation point (the
western point of entrance to Sansum narrows), its northern entrance point,
is somewhat remarkable, being the tei-mination of a high, stony ridge,
dropping suddenly, and running off as a low sharp point to the southward.
Cowitchin harbour extends to the westward from this point for 2 miles,
and the general depth of water in it is 30 fathoms, which shoals suddenly

♦ A rock, with iily 6 to 9 feet water on it, lies almogt in the centre of the bay, a short
distance outside the 3 fathom line, nearly 4 cables S.S.W. ^ W. from Ford point.
Mr. John Devereux.

CHAP. 11.] COWITCIIIN HARBOUR. — SANSUM NARROWS.

ns the flat is approached, which dries off for more than half a mile from
the head of the liarbonr.

But for the large tract of good land contained in the valley of Cowitchin,
the port would scarcely bo deserving of notice, and it is more of a bay than
a harbour. In its north-west end is a considerable river, the Quamitchan,
which flows througli the fertile valley, and is navigalile for small boats or
canoes for several miles. There is a settlement here, off which is a long
pier (on the south side of the harbour). Coming from the south-eastward
the entrance is easily distinguished by the pier and lumber yard, just inside
the point on the west aide. Mail steamers call here twice a week.

AnchoragG. — Snug creek. — The only convenient anchorage to
be obtained is in Snug creek, on the north side of Cowitchin harbour, or
oif the outer village on the south side, 1| miles within the entrance ; in
the latter case a vessel must approach the shore within little more than one
cable's length, and anchor cautioui^ly, when 12 fathoms are obtained.

Snug creek is a convenient nncliorage for small craft or coasters, and one
or two vessels of moderate size might obtain anchorage and shelter in it ;
it extends in a northerly direction for nearly one mile, and is one-quarter of
a mile in breadth. Nearly in the middle of the entrance is a rock which
uncovers at low water in the centre of the kelp ; it is about 20 feet in
extent, and has 1^ fathoms water around it. The western point of entrance
can be passed close as it is bold, and has 10 fathoms water within half a
cable of it ; when one quarter of a mile or less, inside the point, anchor in
the centre of the creek in 6 fathoms.

SANSUM NARROWS take a general northerly direction between
Vancouver and Admiral islands for a distance of 6 miles, when they lead
into Stuart channel ; the average breadth of this strait is about half a mile>
but at their narrowesi part abreast Bold bluff", on the Admiral island shore,
2^ miles above Separation point, they are contracted to one-third of a mile.
The high land on both sides renders the wind generally very unsteady ;
from this cause as well as from the somewhat confined nature of the channel,
and the depth of water which prevents anchoring, the Narrows cannot be
recommended except for steamers or coasting vessels. There are but few
dangers to be avoided, and the strength of the tides has seldom been found
to exceed 3 knots, generally much less.

In the lower part of the Narrows southward from Bold bluff, the depth of
water varies from 20 to 30 fathoms ; to the northward of this point it
increases immediately to 70 and 90 fathoms. Maple bay, on the Vancouver
shore near the northern entrance, affords fair anchorage.

Entering Sansum narrows from the southward a kelp patch, with 9 feet
water on it, on the Admiral island shore must be avoided. It lies 2 cables

74 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap, ii,

S.S.W. from n smull islet close to the coast, nearly one mile E. by N. from
Separation point, and nearly half a mile S.E. ^ S. from Entrance point ;
there are 20 fathoms between it and the small islet.

Another rocky patch extends nearly one cable's length off shore from the
eastern side of the Narrows ; it lies G cables N.W. ^ W. from Entrance
point. .

Burial islet, a small spot used as an Indian burying-place, lies on the
eastern side of the Narrows, 1^ miles above Separation point ; pass outaide
it as close as convenient to the kelp.

Bold bluflf, a smooth headland of bare rock, is steep-to ; the channel
here is scarcely one-third of a mile across. Rocky ground marked by kelp
extends one cable's length off Kelp point on the western side, almost
opposite to Bold bluff; northward from these points the Narrows increase
in breadth to nearly one mile.

Burgoyne bay, the entrance to which is half a mile eastward from
Bold bluff, is a narrow and rather deep indentation terminating in a sandy
head ; there is no bottom in the bay under 30 fathoms, until within
2 cables' lengths of its head, when the water shoals suddenly from 10 to 4
fathoms. Anchorage may be had if necessary.

MAPLE BAY.* — From Grave point the Nan-ows take a north-
westerly direction, and at a distance of a little more than one mile on the
Vancouver island shore is Maple bay. Boulder, the southern entrance
point, is remarkable from a large boulder stone standing at its low water
extreme. Although an inviting looking bay, the water is too deep for
comfortable anchorage, being generally 40 fathoms, and 16 fathoms within
one cable's length of a smooth sandy beach at its western end.

Bird'S-eyO cove, which takes a southerly direction for nearly one
milo from Boulder point, affords fair anchorage at its entrance in about
the centre of the cove, in 13 fathoms, mud bottom, with the boulder bearing
N.E. ^ N. ; the cove at tliis part is not more than one-third of a mile across ;
2 cables' lengths southward from this anchorage, shoal water, 2 to 3 fathoms,
extends three-quarters of a cable from each side of the cove, which is here
only 2\ cables wide ; coasters may go up mid-channel into 4 or 6 fathoms
near the head. 5,,i . t , • , ^ . -

Tides. — The rise at springs in Maple bay is 12 feet. ■■'' ■

STUART CHANNEL.t—Sansum narrows extend IJ miles north-
ward from Maple bay, when they lead into Stuart channel, the western-
most of the ship passages which lie on the eastern side of Vancouver island.

* See Admiralty plan of Maple bay on chart No. 714 ; scale, m = 3 inches. '-^

f See Admiralty chart :— Strait of Georgia, sheet 1, No. 579; scale, ?« = 0-& inches.

oitAP. n.]

STUART CHANNEL. — OSBORN BAY.

The wcstcn, side of Stuart channel is formed by the shorea of ihiit ishiiid ;
its caHtern, by lie couats of Admiral, Iviiper, and Thetis islundH; it extcmls
in a general N.W. direction for nearly 20 miles, when it joins the DcM
narrows below Nanaimo. The general breadth of the chaiinel is about
2 miles; the depth varies in the southern part from 60 to 100 fathoms, in
some parts more, in the northern portion from 20 to 40 fathoms ; the prin-
cipal dangers are the North and Escape reefs, White rock, and Danger reef.
On the western or Vancouver island shore there are some good harbours,
viz., Osborn bay. Horse-shoe bay. Oyster harbour, and Chemainoa bay ; on
the eastern side there are also some anchorages. Telegraph and Prccdy
harbours on the western, and Clam bay on the eastern side of Thetis
and Kuper islands.

OSBORN BAY,* the southernmost anchorage on the western side
of Stuart channel, may be known by the Shoal islands, a low woo<led
group, extending over 3 miles in a W. by N. i^ N. direction, and connected
at low water by reef? and mud banks ; the south-easternnost of these
islands which helps to form the northern side of Osborn bry, lies a little
over 2 miles N.W. by W., from the north-west entrance poir.t of Sansum
narrows. The bay affords good anchorage, sheltered from the prevailing
winds, from the westward and S.E.

An^llOrag©. — The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, at
half ii iiile from the southern head of the bay with the south-easternmost
Shoal island in line with Southey point, bearing N. J W. ; and the southern
trend of the coast E. by S. ^ S.

The COAST trends in a W.N.W. direction for 4 miles, from Osboni
bay to Horse-shoe bay, and is faced by the Shoal islands, and adjacent
reefs and mud flats, for nearly the whole distance; and vessels should not
approach this shore within half a mile ; a rock awash at high water, lies
nearly half a mile N.N.W. from the south-easternmost Shoal island.
The north(^m point of the North Shoal island has a remarkable flat sandy
spit, on which is built an Indian village ; there are no passages between
the small islands northward of this, and the bank dries ofl* 2 cables'
lengths at low water.

HORSE-SHOE BAY will be known by a rather remarkable
sharp point (Bare point) bare at its extreme, which forms its eastern
entrance. The bay extends in a southerly direction for two- thirds of a
mile, and is one-third of a mile in breadth, sheltered from all except
N.W. winds. There is a timber yard and saw-mill situated on the west
side of the bay, from which spars may be obtained for shipping.

* See Admiralty plan of Osborn bay on chart No. 714 ; scale, m = 3 inches.

76 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

Sird reef, a rocky ledge uncovering at half tide, extends one cablo'a
length from the shore, north-westward from the western point of entrance,
and lies half a mile W. by S. from Bare point.

Ancborage.— There is convenient anchorage for small vessels off the
saw-niill, or v, ithin one-quarter of a mile of thu head of the bay in 8 fathoms ;
within this distance the water shoals suddenly from 5 to 2 fathoms.

OYSTER HARBOUR* is 4 miles W.N.W. from Horse-shoe
bay, the intervening coast being free from danger ; the harbour extends
in the same direction for 4 miles, is nearly one mile wide at the entrance,
narrowing gradually within. Entering from the northward, Coffin islet
should be given a berth of 2 cables ; there are no other dangers which are
not visible ; at low water the Oyster beds dry for 2 cables' lengths off the
buuth shore.

A reef which covers at half flood extends one cable southward from
the Twin islands ; half a mile above this the harbour narrows to one-
quarter of a mile in width ; the deepest water, from 5 to 3 fathoms, wiU be
found at one cable's length off the west side of Long island on the northern
shore ; on the south side are the oyster beds ; small vessels may go as far
up as the west end of Long island, where 3 fathoms will be found at low
water.

Ancliorage. — A. good anchorage for a large vessel is one mile inside
the entrance in 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with the south-east end of Long
island bearing N.W. by W. \ W., and east extreme of Twin islands
bearing North ; good anchorage may also be had in 6 fathoms, mud bottom
nearly three-quarters of a mile farther up the harbour, with the south-east
end of Long island bearing N.W. ^ W., and west end of Twin islands
bearing N.E. h N.

Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Oyster harbour at
6h. Om. p.m. ; springs rise 10 feet.

CHEMAINOS BAY is 2^ miles northward from the entrance of
Oyster harbour, and the same distance W. by S. from Reef point, the north-
west point of Thetis island.

Ancliorage may be had in 8 fathoms at half a mile from its head,
on a bank which projects from the southern shore, with Deer point, at the
noi thern entrance of the bay bearing N.E., and the southern trend of
the coast bearing S.E. by E.; but it is open and cannot be recommended,
unless in fine weather, or with off-shore winds. There are no dangers in
working into it.

See Admiralty plan of Oys'er harbour, on chart No. 714 ; scale, in » 3 inches.

CHAP. II.]

OYSTER HARBOUR. — ESCAPE REEF.

Yellow point, bare ana grassy at its extreme, is the north point of
Cheniainos bay.

The COAST, from Yellow point to Round island, at the southern
-ntrance of Dodd narrows, trends N.W. ^ W. 5 miles, is moderately bold
and free from danger. In working for the;narrows, White rock and Danger
reef must be avoided. At IJ^ miles southward from Round island is Boat
harbour, at the entrance of which a vessel may drop an anchor in
8 to 10 fathoms if waiting for the tide, though there is equally good
anchorage nearer to the narrows.

From the northern entrance of Sansum narrows to North reef, adislanco
of 4 miles, there are no dangers, and both shores may be approached Ijoldly
in working up, except, as before observed, the coast of Vancouver island
from the Shoal islands to Bare point of Horse-shoe bay, which should bo
given a berth of half a mile.

North reef is a sandstone ledge extending in a north-westerly
and south-easterly direction, as all the reefs in this channel do. It lies
half a mile S. by E. ^ E. from the south-east point of Tent island, with
a clear channel between of 26 fathoms. It is just awash at high water, and
therefore easily avoided ; its shoal part extends for one-third of a mile,
in a W.N.W. direction, steep on its north and south sides.

TENT ISLAND, narrow and two-thirds of a mile long, lies off
the south extreme of Kuper island. One cable's length off its south-east
end are two remarkable worn sandstone rocks 8 or 10 feet above water,
with a passage one-third of a mile wide between them and North reef.

Rock. — IS'.E. ^ E., nearly 2 cables from the south-east end of Tent
island, is a rock ivhich uncovers 2 feet, and has shoal water, 2 to 3 fathoms
extending 2 cabies' lengths around it. When passing eastward of Tent
island, its eastern shore should be given a berth of half a mile, as some
ledges extend off it. There is no ship passage between Tent and Kuper
islands, there being a tiepth of only one fathom at low water.

Escape reef, 3 miles N.W. by W. \ W. from North reef, is a
dangerous patch, nearly one-third of a mile in extent, in a W.N.W. and
E.S.E. direction, which covers at one-quarter flood, and has no kelp to
mark its position. It lies nearly half a mile from the west shore of
Kuper islr.nd, IJ miles, W. ^ S. from Josling (its south) point, and a
little more than half a mile South from Upright cliff, Kuper island ; there is
a deep channel one-third of a mile wide between it and Kuper island. The
two entrance points of Sansum narrows, just touching, lead on to the reef.

Leading marks.— Yellow point just open westward of Scott island,
off Preedy harbour, bearing N.W. \ W. leads 3 cables' lengths westward

78 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

irom the reef. The Sandstone rocks oif the south-east point of Tent
island kept open of that point also lead to the westward of it.

Alarm rock is scarcely in the track of vessels working up Stuart
channel. It lies one cable S. by W. from the south-east point of
Hudson island, the south-easternmost of the group of islands, which lie
off the western sides of Kuper and Thetis islands, facing Preedy and
Telegraph harbours. It just covers at high water, and is connected by
a ledge with Hudson island.

talse reef lies 3^ cables W. by N. ^ N. from Scott island, the
north-westward of the group just mentioned, and a long half mile S.W. ^ S.,
from Crescent point, the north-east point of Preedy harbour ; it covers at
half flood.

White rock, about so yards long, and 15 feet above high water,
lies one mile N.N.W. from Reef point, the north-west extreme of Thetis
island ; a bank having from 2 to 5 fathoms water on it extends 2 cables'
lengths north-westward from the rock. This rock has a whitish appear-
ance, and is readily distinguished from a vessel's deck at a distance of

2 or 3 miles. It should not be passed within ? cables' lengths, and there
is a good passage betM^ecn it and Thetis island, giving Eeef point a berth
of half a mile to avoid a rocky ledge extending nearly that distance north-
westward from it.

Ragged island, a low rocky islet, with a few trees on it, lies one-
third of a mile W.N.W., from Pilkey point, the north end of Thetis island,
with a passage of 12 fathoms water between them. There are no dangers
one cable's length from the islet.

Danger reef, lying one mile N.W. ^ N. from White rock, and 1^
miles, N.E. by N. from Yellow point, the north point of Chemainos bay,
covers a space of half a mile almost in the centre of the channel. A small
portion of it is generally awash at high water, at which time it is difficult
to make out until within a short distance of it.

Dire "tions. — When passing through Stuart channel, there is a clear
IJixssage ouv- mile in breadth between Danger reef and the Vancouver
island shore, and going either up or down the channel, White rock kept in
line with the north-east extreme of Thetis island, bearing E.S.E., leads

3 cables' lengths to the westward of the reef. Bound southward through
Stuart channel from Dodd ncrrows, pass at from one to 2 cables' lengths
eastward of Round island, and sto' ' for the westernmost ragged tree summit
of Thetis island, S.E. | E., this cuarse leads in mid-channel, and over half
a mile westward from Danger reef, and White rock ; when the latter bears
East, alter course to S.S.E. for Stuart channel.

CHAiMi.] KTJPEE ISLAND. — TELEGRAPH HARBOTJE.

There is a clear passage of three-quarters of a mile in breadth between
White rock and Danger reef, and of half a mile between the reef and Tree
island, vith a depth of over 30 fathoms. As White rock and Tree
island are always visible, and Danger reef is generally above water, there
can be no difficulty in either of these passages to vessels coming up
Trincomalie channel.

VESUVIUS BAY, on the western side of Admiral island, im-
mediately opposite Osborn bay, has deep water, but shoals suddenly at its
head j if necessary, a vessel might anchor in 9 fathoms at 1| cables from
the shore ; but it is not recommended.

There is also anchorage for coasters Inside Idol islet in Houston
passage. This islet lies 1^ miles E. byN.'^^ N. from the south end of
Tent island, and is 2^ cables from Admiral island; with the islet bearing
W. by N., and midway between it and the shore, there is anchorage in
G fathoms.

Grappler reef, on the eastern side of Houston passage, is one cable
in extent and uncovers at very low water. It lies one-quarter of a mile off
the north-west end of Admiral island, and half a mile S.S.W. from Southey
point ; there are 5 fathoms water between it and the shore of the island.
Passing through Houston passage, the eastern point of Sansum narrows
kept well open of the points of Admiral island to the northward of it, the
latter bearing S.E. ^ S., loads 2 cables' lengths westward of the reef, and
when the southern point of Secretary island is open of Southev point
bearing N.E. by N., it is cleared to the northward.

TELEGRAPH HARBOUR,* on the west side of Kuper
islaud, is a snug anchorage, and its entrance is between Hudson island and
Active point, which are half a mile apart. Entering from the southward.
Escape reef (page 77) must be avoided. If passing inside the reef,
the shore of the island should be kept aboard within one-quarter of a
mile ; if outside or westward of it, then keep Yellow point (north point of
Chemainos bay) just open westward of Scott island, off Prccdy harbour,
bearing N.W. ^ W., until Upright cliff of Kuper island bears N.E., when
a vessel will be well to the northward of it, and may steer for the entrance
of the harbour, which is free from danger (with the exception of Alarm
rock, extending from the south-east point of Hudson island) ; 20 fathoms
water will be found until 3 cables' lengths inside the entrance, when it
shoals to 12 and 8 fathoms.

Anchorage. — There is good anchorage in 8 fathoms, with the
north-west end of Hudson island bearing W.S.W., and Active poinl

♦ See Admiralty plan of Telegraph harbour, oa chart No. 714; scale, m = 3 inches.
It is high water, full and change, in Telegraph harbour at 6h. Om ; springs rise 10 feet.

80 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

S.E. ^ S. ; or 2 cables' lengths farther in, in S^athoms, with the north-
west point of Hudson island bearing S. W. by \V., and Active point bearing
S.S.E. ^ E. Above this, the harbour contracts to a narrow creek
extending one mile to the N.W., where coasters may find anchorage in
2 and 3 fathoms : the continuation of this creek easterly separates Kuper
from Thetis island, which at low water are connected.

PREEDY HARBOUR is separated from the one just described
by a group of small islands and reefs ; its entrance is to the northward of
them between Scott island and Crescent point of Thetis isiand, and is one-
third of a mile in breadth. When entering, the Thetis island shore should
be kept aboard to avoid False reef, a patch which coders at half tide,
lying 3i cables W. by .N. ^ N, from the west end of Scott island, and half
a mile S.W. ^ S. from Crescent point.

Shoal water extends for 1^ cables off the northern sides of Scott and
Dayman islands.

AncllOragO will be found in 7 fathoms, with Crescent point bearing
W.N.W., distant nearly half a mile, and east point of Dayman island
bearing S. by W.

SWANSON CHANNEL leads from the Ilaro strait to the north-
westward between Admiral island on the west and Pender island on the
east ; passing eastward of Prevost island it enters the Active pass between
Galiano and Mayne islands, and thence into the strait of Georgia ;
northward of Active pass it connects with Trincomalie channel.

ADMIRAL ISLAND, separating Stuart from Trincomalie and
Swanson channels, is of considerable extent, being nearly 15 miles in
length N.W. and S.E., and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its northern
end to 6 at its southern. It has two good ports, Fulford harbour on its
south-east, and Ganges harbour on its eastern side. The southern portion
of the island is a peninsula formed by the indentations of Fulford harbour
and Burgoyne bay (a valley separating the heads of these ports),
composed of a lofty ridge of mountains over 2,000 feet in height, rising
abruptly from all sides ; the summit, mount Bruce, being 2,329 feet high.

Immediately northward of the valley, and over Burgoyne bay on its
western side, mount Baynes rises to an elevation of 1,953 feet, and is very
t-emarkable, its southern face being a perpendicular precipice visible a
long distance from the southward or eastward. The Otter range of
somewhat less elevation rises northward of mount Baynes, from whence
the island slopes away in a wedge shape, its northern termination, Southey
point, being a sharp extreme. The island is for the most part thickly
wooded, but there is a considemble extent of partially clear land both in
the valley at the head of Fulford harbour and at the northern end of the

CHAP. II.] ADMIRAL ISLAND. 81

inland, which has become peopled by settlers under the name of Salt Spriug
district, from the fact of several salt springs having been discovered.

PULPORD HARBOUR penetrates the south-east side of
Admiral island in a W.N.W. direction for 2^ miles. At its entrance, is
Russell island, between which and Isabella point, the western point of the
harbour, is the best pas.sage in.

Mount Baynes appears very remarkable from the harbour, rising
immediately over its head almost as a perpendicular cliff. Immediately
over the north side of the harbour is Reginald hill, a stony elevation
between 700 and 800 feet high.

CdCil rock with 2 fathoms water on it lies one-third of a mile
S.E. by E. J E. from the south-west point of Russell island.

The southern entrance is two-thirds of a mile wide with a
depth of 20 fathoms until abreast North rock; here the harbour
naiTows, and canies a general breadth almost to its head of a little less
than half a mile; the depths decreasing to 13 and 10 fathoms and at
&^ cables from the head to 5 fathoms when the water shoals rapidly on the
edge of the bank which extends about 3 cables from the shore at the head
of the harbour.

North rock is a small rocky islet lying close ofiE the north point of the
harbour ; a rock, which covers at one-quarter flood, lies 2 cables' lengths
west from it, and more than 1 ^ cables from the shore, so that strangers
entering should keep to the southward of mid-channel until past it.

The northern passage into the harbour, between Russell island
and Eleanor point, though in places not more than one-quarter of a mile
in breadth, is a safe channel of from 14 to 18 fathoms water.

Louisa rock, with only one fathom water on it, is the only danger ; it
lies 2 cables from the northern or Admiral island shore, with the west end of
Russell island bearing S.E. ^ S. distant 4 cables, and North rock W.S.W.
the same distance ; with a leading wind the Russell island shore should
be kept rather aboard.

Anchorage. — There is good anchorage in 10 fathoms in tho centre
of the harbour with Reginald hill bearing E.N.E. ; at the head of the
harboui* Is a considerable fresh-water stream, from which shoal water
extends for 3 cables' lengths.

GANGES HARBOUR 's a safe and commodious port for vessels
of any description or size, and has two entrances. Its southern entrance,
which is in the Swanson channel, lies between Admiral and Prevost islands,
and has no dangers which are not visible ; the northern entrance is by
Captain passage. When entering from the southward, the Channel islets
A 17498. F

82 WESTERN CHANNELS, &0. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [ciup. n.

may be passed on either side, but by far the widest passage is to the
northward of them ; they are two small wooded islands, 1^ miles within
Beaver point, and 2 cables from the shore of Admiral 'sland.

Liddell point, the south-east extreme of Prevost island, and the
northern entrance point of the harbour, has a reef which is covered at half
flood extending 2 cables* lengths eastward from it.

The Acland islands, two in number, lie to the westward of Liddell
point along the shore of Prevost island, between which and them there is
no ship channel.

Directions. — The fair channel into the harbour, between the Channel
and Acland islands, is nearly half a mile wide, the depth being 30 fathoms ;
having passed these islands the harbour is nearly 1^ miles wide, and the
general depth for 2 miles, is from 20 to 13 fathoms.

There are but few dangers in working into the harbour, and they are
easily avoided. A rocky patch with one fathom water on it lies 2| cables
W. I N. from the west point of the westernmost Acland island, and the
same distance off shore. There is another one-fathom patch which is more
in the track of vessels ; it lies nearly 2 miles W. by N. | N. from .^e
southernmost Channel islet, nearly 1 1 miles S. by E. ^ E. from Nose point
(Captain passage), and is half a mile from the southern or Admiral island
side of the harbour ; there is a clear passage 3 cables wide, the depth being
14 fathoms, southward of the patch ; to the northward of it the passage is
three-quarters of a mile wide, with depths of from 13 to 21 fathoms.

The Chain islands are a group of 6 or 7 low narrow islets con-
nected by reefs, extending from the head of the harbour in an E.S.E. direc-
tion for 1^ miles. To the southward of these islands the ground is clear,
but to the northward of them are scattered reefs, and vessels are not
recommended to anchor on that side above the outermost island.

Anchorage. — A vessel may anchor as soon as a depth of 10 or 12
fathoms is found ; a good berth is in 11 fathoms water with Peile point,
and the two entrance points of Long] harbour nearly in line bearing
N.E. by N., and the easternmost Chain island W.N.W. If desirable,
anchorage may be had in 6 fathoms mud, midway between the Chain islands
and the south shore, the easternmost island bearing E.N.E., or in a' still
snugger berth one mile above, off the sandy spit on Admiral island, in 4 or
5 fathoms. This latter berth is recommended for vessels of moderate size
intending to make any stay.

CAPTAIN PASSAGE also leads into Ganges harbour, to the
northward of Prevost island. It is a clear deep passage, one-third of a
mile wide, with depths of from 30 to 40 fathoms ; and vessels from the

CHAP. II.]

CAPTAIN PASSAGE. — PREVOST ISLAND.

northward intending to enter the harbour should always use it. There is
only one danger, which is well inside Ganges harbour, and which is almost
equally in the track of vessels working up ^y the southern passage ; it is a
small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3^ cables S.W. by W. from the western
entrance point of Long harbour. Entering by Captain passage, Peilc
point should not be shut in by the entrance points of Long harbour tintil
the opening between Prevost and Acland islands is shut in, when this reef
will be well cleared. When working up by the southern channel, a vessel
should not stand so far to the eastward, when in the neighbourhood of this
patch, as to open out the passage between Acland and Prevost islands.

LONG HARBOUR may he almost considered as part of Ganges
harbour. It is a long, narrow creek, its general breadtlx being 2 to 3
cables, and it lies to the eastward of Ganges harbour and runs parallel to
it for 2^ miles. Its entrance is between two sloping, rocky points, similar
to each other, on the west side of Captain passage. At one-quarter of a
mile inside the entrance is a high, bare islet, which must be passed on its
south side ; and at one mile inside the entrance there is also another and
somewhat similar island, which may be passed on either side. Outside
these^ islets the depth is from 14 to 16 fathoms; above them, 4 and 5
fathoms. At the head of the creek is a snug place for a ship lo repair, &c.,
but as a harbour, it is only adapted to steamers or coasters, and, with the
good and easy anchorage of Ganges harbour so close, there would appear
to be no reason to recommend this contracted and inconvenient one.

PREVOST ISLAND, lying in the centre of Swanson channel, is
moderately high, thickly wooded, and of an irregular shape. It is 3 miles
long, in a N.W. andS.E. direction, l^ miles in breadth, and on its southern
and westtm sides it is indented liy several bays and creeks ; its northern
side is almost a straight cliffy shore.

Ellen bay, on the south-east side of Prevost island, between Liddell
and Red islet points, is three-quarters of a mile deep, by one-third in
breadth, narrowing to 2 cables, one-third of a mile from its head, and affords
fair anchorage with all but south-easterly winds in 10 fathoms, mud bottom.
The head of this bay is a grassy, swampy flat, only one cable wide,
separating the bay from the creeks on the western shore.

Annette and Glenthorne creeks, on the western or Ganges

harbour side, are curious, narrow indentations extending into the island for
one mile in an E. by S. direction, and only separated from each other by a
narrow stony ridge. In Glenthorne, the western one, there are 3 fathoms
water, the other has 1^ fathoms; they are snug places for small craft, or
for a vessel to repair.

r 2

84 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS, [chap.ii.

JEmes bay, on the north-west side of the island, and on east side of
Captain passage, affords fair, but very confined anchorage in 10 fathoms for
a vPisel of moderate size, sheltered from southerly winds, but she must get
well in, ns there are 18 to 2*" ^athoms water in the outer port of the bay.

There are two hays northward of Ellen bay, but too small to afford any
shelter.

Hawkins island, a small, rocky islet with a few bushes ou it, lies
close off a remarkable white shell-beach, en the north-east side of Prevoat
island.

Charles rocks. — From 2 to 3^ cables W. ^ N. from the nor'h-westem
point of Hawkins island are the Charles rocks, three smooth-topped rocks,
not marked by kelp, and uncovering towards low water.

ACTIVE PASS. — From Discovery island at the southern entrance
of Haro channel, to the sand heads of I'raser river, by the Active pass, is
just 40 miles, and the line is almost a straight one. By adopting this
route, not only the most dangerous and inconvenient part of the Haro
strait is avoided, viz., its northern entrance abreast the East point of
Saturna island and Patos island (where the tides are strong and apt to
set a vessel down Rosario strait, or over on the eastern shore,) but a
distance of nearly 10 miles is saved. / .. J'

From Portlock point, the south-eastern bluff of Prevost island, the en-
trance of Active pass bears N. by W. ^ W. 1| miles. Thie southern
entrance point of the pass, Helen point, is low, bare, and of a yellowish
colour ; over its northern side rise the high, stony hills, on the southern
side of Galiano island ; the entrance itself does not become very apparent
until it is approached -within one mile.

Active pass takes an E.N.E. direction for 1^ miles, and then turns north
for the same distance, fairly into the strait of Georgia. The average breadth
of the channel is about one-third of a mile, and its general depth about 20
fathoms ; there are no hidden dangers with the exception of a small rock off
Laura point, on which there is said to be a depth of only a few feet, and which
should, therefore, not be closely approached* ; and at one-quarter of a mile
within the southern entrance, and very close off the northern shore, a rock
which uncovers at half tide ; but the great strength of the tides, together
with the absence of steady winds, renders it unfit for sailing vessels, unless,

* H.M.S. Termagant passing through Active pass in July 1860, ran on to Laura point,
on the south side, from refusing to answer her helm in making the turn to the northward,
tne tide at the time favourable, and running about 4 knots ; H.M.S. Plumper and Alert
were ahead and astern of her at the time. The Termagant' » draught was 18 feet, and
she sat 5 teet by the stern ; an under-current striking her heel was probably the cause.

CHAP. II.]

ACTIVE PASS.

indeed, nmall coasters ; for steamers it is an excellent channel, and a vessel of
moderate size commanding a speed of 8 knots may take it at any time
without fear, but it is advisable for large ships and those deeply laden to
pass through at, or near slack water.* . .

LIGHT. — From a square, white, wooden, light tower, situated on

Oeorgina point, is exhibited at an elevation of 55 feet above high water, a

Jixed white light, visible between the bearings of N.E. \ N., through

south, to W. \ S., and should be seen in clear weather from a distance of

12 miles.t

The lighthouse is situated in latitude 48° 52' 40" N., longitude
123° \r 50" W. .

Otter bay. — if overtaken by night, or waiting for tide. Otter bay, on
the west side of Pender island, is a good stopping-place ; it is one mile north
from Mouatt point, and 2\ miles E.N.E. from the Channel islets in
Ganges harbour ; a very fair anchorage is to be had in the centre of the
bay, in 8 fathoms, and no dangers. Ellen bay in Frevost island might also
be used, but the former is to bo preferred. ,,

Miners bay, on the south side of Active pass, where it takes the
sharp turn to the northward, affords anchorage, if necessary ; but a vessel
must go close in to get 12 fathoms, and then is barely out of the whirl of
the tide.

Directions. — After entering Swanson channel (page 80) between
Admiral and Pender islands steer to pass to the eastward of Prevost
island, and keep Pelorus point (the eastern extreme of Moresby island) open
of Mouatt point (the western extreme of Pender island) bearing S.E. ^ S,]:
which will lead over one-third of a mile westward of Enterprise reef (two
dangerous patches Avhich lie off the west side of Mayne island, see p. 56) ;
and when Helen point bears N. by E., or the northern beacon comes well
open west of the southern one, the reef will be cleared, and the entrance

* Since the mishap to II.M.S, 7'eniia5an{, seven vessels have met with accidents in
Active pass ; and no ship, especially those deeply laden, should attempt it except near -
slack water. There are three separate and distinct places in the channel where large
vessels will take charge against their helm in spite of all precautions, should they
happen to be at those places at certain times of tide. — Mr. John Devereux, 1886.

H.M.S. Triumph, when going through Active pass, with a flood tide, running at the
rate of from 4 to 5 knots an hour, experienced an under current settiug in the opposite
direction. It is therefore dangerous for vessels of heavy draught to attempt the passage
at the full strength of the tide.— Captain H. Bose.R.N., H.M.S. Triumph, August 1886.
t A bell is sounded, during thick or foggy weather, once every fifteen seconds. The
fog-signal station is a wooden building, painted white, situated on the western extreme of
Georgina point, and about 40 feet from the lighthouse.

XSee View C on Admiralty chart: — Haro strait and Middle channel, No. 2,840;
scale, m=l'0 inch. "*

86 WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO OABRIOLA PASS. [ciur. n.

of the pass may be steered for. There is a passage inside Enterprise reef
which amy bo taken when both kelp patches can be seen. If coming out
of Navy channel, between Pender and Mayne islands, a vessel should keep
over for Prevost island until Pelorus point is open of Mouatt point ; these
two points in line, or just touching, lead very close on Enterprise reef. On
the western side of Swansou channel, the reef which lies 2 cables eastward
from Liddell point must bo avoided, and lied and Bright islands, oflf the
points to the northward of it, should be given a berth of one cable.

When passing through Active pass to the Avestward against the flood, a
vessel should keep rather on the southern shore of the pass, as the tide sets
over towards a rock, which uncovers at half tide, and lies very close to the
northern shore, about one-quarter of a mile within the southern entrance.

When entering or passing out of the northern entrance of Active pass, the
point of Gossip island, on the west, and also Georgina point (north extreme
of Mayne island) on the east, should be given a good berth ; xnceed, the
best directions which can be given are to pass through in mid-channel.
From thence the sand heads of Eraser river bear N. by W. | W. distant 11
miles. The sand head buoys are visible from a distance of 2 or 3 miles.

Tides. — The flood-tide in Active pass sets from west to east, or from
the Swanson channel into the strait of Georgia; and the ebb, in the
contrary direction.*

The velocity during springs is sometimes 7 knots; at ordinary tides,
from 3 to 5. In the northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy tide
ripple, caused by a patch of 7 and 9 fathoms, and by the meeting of
the tide through the pass with that in the strait ; it is recommended to
pass through in mid-channel ; no favourable eddy, or less strength of
tide, will be found on either side, unless inside the kelp which lines the
shores. It is high water, full and change, at 4h. Om. : ..

TRINCOMALIE CHANNEL commences at Active pass,
from the southern entrance of which its general direction is W.N.W. for
24 miles, when it enters the Dodd narrows. ,. ,

Like all the inner channels already described, this one must be classed
as essentially a channel for steamers or coasters ; it can only be used with
advantage by vessels bound to the eastern ports of Vancouver island below
Nanaimo, or by such as choose to enter Nanaimo itself by that contracted
pass the Dodd narrows. ,. ,

The eastern side of the channel is formed by the long narrow islands of
Galiano and Valdes, and the western by Admiral, Kuper, and Thetis
islands, and part of the eastern shore of Vancouver, the main island ; some

* The time of high water at Active pass is one hour later than that at port
Townshend, Admiralty inlet. — Captain H. Rose, E.N., H.M.S. Triumph, August 1886.

CHAP. II.]

TRINCOMALIE CHANNEL.

smaller islands are scattered over it, and there are also several rocks which
require to be known and avoided, nevertheless, with the assistance of the
chart, and these directions, it is a desirable and safe channel for the class
of vessels before mentioned ; the general depth of water is not incon-
venient for anchorage if necessary, as it rarely exceeds 30 fathoms, and
from 12 to 18 fathoms can generally be found at a convenient distance from
the shore. Montague harbour on the western side of Galiano island is a
good stopping place, also Clam bay on the east side of Thetis island.

Trincomalie channel contracts when abreast Narrow island to less than
one mile in width, but the shores are bold on both sides. On the shore of
Galiano island, one mile N.E. from the south-east point of Narrow island,
is Retreat cove, offering shelter for boats or anchorage for coasters ; an
island lies in the centre of it.

Portier and Gabriola passes, leading into the strait of

Georgia, are both intricate and dangerous, unless to those perfectly
acquainted with them, and the tides are so strong, and varying in their set,
that they cannot be said to be applicable to the general purposes of naviga-
tion, and few vessels would be justified in using them unless in cases of
emergency (see pages 90, 95).

MONTAGUE HARBOUR is formed between the south-west
side of Galiano island and Parker island, and its entrance, between Philli-
more point and the small island of Julia, is 1| miles W.N.W. from the
west entrance of Active pass. The entrance is but little over one cable in
breadth, but has deep water, and is free from danger ; immediately inside
the points it widens out to one-quarter of a mile, and anchorage may be
obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms in the arm which leads to the harbour. This
arm runs in a N.W. ^ W. direction for nearly one mile, with an average
breadth of 2 cables and a depth of from 7 to 11 fathoms, when it turns to the
eastward and enters the harbour, which though small is a snug and secure
anchorage, with a general depth of 6 fathoms, good holding ground ;
several Indian lodges are built on the shores of the bay. There is a
narrow passage to the north-westward from this harbour into the Trin-
comalie channel, the least depth in which is 3 fathoms at low water.

Several smaller islands extend W.N.W. from Parker island, viz.. Sphinx,
Charles, Wise, and Twin islands,* the latter are two rather remarkable
rocky islets about 30 feet high ; between this group and the shore of
Galiano island is a passage of over half a mile in breadth with good
anchorage in 10 fathoms.

Atkins reef lies on the western side of Trincomalie channel, one-
third of a mile from the shore of Admiral island, and in the track of vessels
working up or down. It is one cable in extent, and covers at 4 feet rise

♦ Mr. John Devereux reports, that a rock which uncovers at low water spring tides,
lies 2 cables W. by N. ^ N., from Twin islands.

88 WESTEEN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABEIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

of tide, its neighbourhood being marked by kelp, which, however, is rarely
seen when there is any ripple on the water. The reef lies 3^ miles
W. by N. ^ N. from Poile point, the, north-west end of Prevost island ;
1^ miles S. ^ E. From the Twin islands ; and one mile E. by S. from the
south-east end of the peninsula which forms Walker hook. There is a
passage of 16 fathoms between the reef and Admiral island, and it may bo
passed at one cable's length on the outside. The south-west abrupt tangent
of Gallano island in line with mount Parke, a remarkable bare-topped
conical hill on the south side of Active pass, bearing E. \ S., leads well
outside Atkins reef.*

WALKER HOOK ia formed by a peninsula or tongue of land
projecting from Admiral island, 4 miles W. by N. | N. from Captain passage.
On its south-east side is fair anchorage for small vessels in 6 fathoms, but a
shoal patch marked by kelp, one-third of a mile in extent, lies from 2 cables
to over half a mile E.N.E. from the south-east point of the peninsula ;
small vessels may pass between this shoal and the point in 5 fathoms,
or between it and Atkins reef, which is better, and anchor in 6 fathoms,
2 cables southward from the neck of the peninsula. There is also
anchorage in 10 fathoms northward of the peninsula, but a vessel must not
go within the north point of the tongue of land forming the hook as it
dries a long way out.

Governor rock, a dangerous rocky patch lying almost in the
centre of Trincomalie channel, has 4 feet on it at low water, is about
half a cable in extent, and though kelp grows on it, yet it is very difKcult
to make out until quite close to. It lies 1§ miles W. J S. from Twin
islands; 1^ miles N.W. by N. from the south-east point of Walker hook;
and If miles S.S.W. from Quadra hill. This hill cannot be mistaken; it
rises from the centre of Galiann island to the height of 750 feet, and a
remarkable white basaltic cliff will be seen on the coast immediately
southward of it.

•f

Walker rock Hes two-thirds of a mile Norf : f.om Governor rock,
and covers at 4 feet rise. It lies 1§ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Twin
islands ; 1| miles S.W. by S. from Quadra hill ; and two-thirds of a mile
from the shore of Galiano island.

A beacon of stone, 8 feet high, surmounted by a staff 18 feet high,
with cross pieces at right angles, painted black on east and west sides and
white on north and south, is erected on the Walker rock.

Tiicse two rocks are the principal dangei's to be avoided in the southern
part of Trincomalie channel; they are both steep- to, and may be passed if
necessary at one cable's length.

* .See View C on Admiralty chart: — Haro and Rosario straits, No. 2,689; scale,
m = 0'5 inches.

cnAP. It.]

TRINCOMAIIE CHANNEL.

DirOOtionS. — When paHHing up or down Triucomalie channel, vossols
may either tnko the passage sonthwavd ot Governor rock, or that between
it and Walker rock, or northward oi ihv latter. If taking the Houthorn
passage, after having cleared Atkins reef, and the shoal ofF Walker hook ;
the shore of Admiral island, which is bold, should bo kept aboArd within
half a mile, until Quadra hill bears N.E., when they will b(> to the west-
ward of both rocks, and may steer N.N.W. over towards Galiano island,
giving the south-east end of Narrow island a berth of at least half a mile,
as a reef extends off it.

If passing between the two rocks, which are two-thirda of a mile apart,
the marks for a mid-channel course are, the north-east point of Thetis
island kept well open of the east side of Narrow island, the latter bearing
W. by N. ^ N. ; steer up with these marks on until Quadra hill bears N.E.
when both rocks will be passed, taking care not to open the north-east
point of Thetis island so much of Narrow island as to bring the former in
line with Hall island, as this would lead right on to the Walker rock. The
Dorth<east point of Thetis islond should be kept just halfway between the
east side of Narrow, and west side of Hall islands ;* these marks are very
clear and well defined, and are generally seen from a long distance.
When passing to the eastward ; when the south-east point of Walker hook
bears South, a vessel will be over half a mile eastward of Governor and
Walker rocks.

If passing northward of Walker rock when bound westward up the
channel, keep Parker and Wise islands aboard within half a mile ; there
are no dangers off them. When abreast Twin islands, which should not be-
passed within 3 cables' lengths, haul in to the northward until mount
Sutil on the southern end of Galiano island is well open northward of
Twin islands, or until the same mountain is in line with Charles island
bearing E. by S. ^ S. ; steer up with these marks on astern (which will
lead well to the northward of Walker rock) until Quadra hill bears N.E.,
when a mid-channel course may be steered between Galiano island, and
the islands forming the western side of the channel.

Coming down Trincomalie channel, and desiring to pass northward of
Wolker rock, keep over on the Galiano island shore until the north-east
point of Thetis island is shut in by the south point of Hall Island ; as long
as these points are not opened a vessel will be northward of the rock, and
when Quadra hill bears North, she will be half a mile eastward of both it
and the Governor rock.

HOUSTON PASSAGE, between Kuper ialand and the north end
of Admiral island, leads from the Trincomalie into Stuart channel. Vessels

'*' See View D on Admiralty chart
m = C'5 inches.

-Haro and Kosario straits, No. 2,689 ; scale

90 "WESTEEN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABEIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

intending to take it had better pass up southward or inside the Governor
rock. Tlie entrance is between the north-east point of Admiral island
and Narrow and Secretary islands ; the west side of Narrow island is
foul, several small islets and rocks extend from one to 3 cables' lengths
oiF it ; at If miles E. by S. from Southey point, a bank having from 2 to 3
fathoms water on it, extends one-third of a mile off the shore of Admiral
island, narrowing the navigable channel between that island and Narrow
island to one-third of a mile in breadth ; the general depth of water in
raid-channel is 20 fathoms, and anchorage within a moderate distance of
the shore of Admiral island may be obtained in 10 or 12 fathoms water,
off Sultspring settlement, at 2J miles E. by S. from Southey point.

Southey point, the sharp northern extreme of Admiral island, may be
approached to within one cable's length. At half a mile S.S.W. from it, is
the Grappler reef described on page 79 ; round it Houston passage turns
abruptly to the southward, and Stuart channel may be entered either by
the main passage between North reef and Admiral island, or if necessary,
between North reef and Tent island. Give North reef a moderate berth, as
a shoal ridge of rocks extends one-third of a mile off its north-west and
south-west ends (page 77).

PORTIER PASS, between Galiano and Valdes islands, is the first
outlet into the strait of Georgia, northward of Active pass, from which it
is distant 14 miles ; the pass, though short (not exceeding one mile from
its southern entrance until fairly in the strait) is narrow, and is rendered
still more so by sunken rocks on its western side ; the tides are very
strong, rnnning from 4 to 7 knots, and overfalls and whirling eddies
are always to be met in the northern entrance. No vessel but a steamer
commanding a speed of 8 knots should take it unless in a case of
emergency.

Black rock, the first danger in the southern entrance, is just awash
at high water ; it is on the western side of the pass 1^ cables E.S.E. from
Native point, the north-west entrance point, and is easily avoided.

Virago rock, the principal danger, is almost in the centre of the
channel, but rather on the western side ; it only uncovers at low tides, and
lies 2 cables E. by N. ^ N. from Native point, and a little over 2 cables
W. by S. ^ S. from Race point, the centre projecting point on the east side
of the pass, here is the narrowest part of the passage.

Two-fathom patch. — The third danger is a 2-fathom rocky patch
extending from one of the outer east points of the pass ; it lies one-third
of a mile N.N.E. \ E. from ru.ce point, and 3 cables W. by N. J N. from
Tongue point, the outer east point ; this patch is covered with kelp, which
is generally visible.

CHJLF. II.]

HOUSTON PASSAGE. — PORTIER PASS.

DIRECTIONS. — At any stage of the flood stream a steam vessel
acquainted with the channel might pass out into the strait of Georgia
with facility ; the eastern shore should be always 1-^pt aboard within one
cable's length until beyond Race point, which should be passed close to,
after which a vessel with the flood stream should steer for Canoe islet, a
bare yellow rock about 20 feet high, bearing N.N.W. two-thirds of a mile
distant, in order to clear the 2-fathom patch ; Canoe islet is clear of danger
on its western side, but its eastern should not be approached within
3 cables' lengths.

When passing out ^f the channel with the ebb tide, thr great danger
to be avoided is the violence of the stream setting against and round
Race point, which, if a vessel have not sufficient power to stem,
will either take her on the port bow and set her on the point, or,
which is still more probable, on the starboard, and set her on Virago
rock.*

Entering Trincomalie channel from the strait of Georgia by Portier pass,
a vessel should keep one-third of a mile eastward of Canoe islet, and then
steer for Race point, duo allowance being made Avith the flood for the
':' fathom patch ; if with the ebb. Race point should be kept close aboard
to avoid being set on Virago rock, and having passed the point, hug the
eastern shore, which is clear of danger ; tlie rule on all occasions should
be to avoid the western shore; the great strength of the tide ceases
immediately on clearing the entrance points either way. From the strait of
Georgia the pass is always easily recognized from a distance of several
miles, by the gap, formed by its sloping wooded entrance points terminating
in two low extremes, from most points of view overlapping each other ;
bring the entrance to bear about S. by W. and steer for it.

Tides. — The flood tide sets from Trincomalie channel to the northward
into the strait of Georgia and the ebb in the contrary direction. The
ebb stream commences from one hour to one hour and a half before it is
high water by the shore, and runs for one bour after low water, or from
7 to 8 hours ; it is high water at full and change at about 4 p.m., but it is
not very regular. At springs the tides run with a velocity of 4 to 7 knots
with dangerous whirls and eddies.

CLAM BAY,t 0" t^c east side of Thetis and Kupcr islands, oppo-
site to Portier pass, is formed by the shores of these two islands approach-
ing; each other ; and the continuation of tlie bay separates these two
islands at high water, when there is a boat chaiinol into Telegraph harbour
(page 80) on their western side.

♦ This wfiB the case on one occr.siou with H.M. steam vessel of that name,
t See Admiralty plan of Clam bay, on chart, No. 714 ; scale, m = 3 inches.

92 WESTERN CHANNELS, «fcc. TO GA.BRIOLA PASS. [chap. ii.

White Spit, a remarkable point of broken clam shells which can be
seen from a long distance, forms the southern entrance point of the bay ;
immediiitely southward of it is a considerable native lodge ; a reef, having
less than one fathom water on it in some ]>laces, extends over 3 cables
lengths in an E.S.E. direction from White spit point ; Leoch island off the
northern point of the bay is a small wooded islet.

Centre reef, with 6 feet water on it, and marked by kelp, should
not be approached nearer than 1 \ cables, it lies almost in the centre of the
entrance, nearly 3 cables N.W. ^ W. fri.m White spit, and one-third of a
mile E. by S. from Leech island.

Rocket shoal, on which there is only a depth of 6 feet at low water
spring tides, lies nearly in the centre of the bay, with White spit extreme
in line with the highest part of Indian island, bearing E. ^ S., it is half a
cable in extent, with depths of from 2 to 4 fathoms around it.

Directions. — The best passage into Clam bay from the eastward, is
northward of Narrow, Secretary, and Indian islands, between them and
Hall island ; after passing Indian island steer in for White spit on a S.W.
bearing, giving it a berth of one cable.

If desired, vessels may enter southward of Narrow and Secretary
islands, between them and Kuper island, and there is fair anchorage in a
moderate depth of water in this passage ; there are, however, several
dangers in this channel, described on pnge 90, also two rocks marked by kelp
with less than one fathom wi.ier on them off the south-west side of Indian
island, to oe avoided ; the southern lies 4 cables S.W. ^ W. from the south
end of Indian island, and the northern 1^ cables S.W. from the north end
of the same island ; therefore the west side of Indian island should be kept
abop" ' "nd a vessel should not bear up round White spit until its extreme
= S '' ) as rocks extend off more than 3 cables' lengths E.S.E. from it
1 :us ^^ nnel is not recommended unless for small vessels acquainted with
the ^.ocality.

Entering from the northward there is a clear deep passage of two-thirds
of a mile in l>readth between Thetis and Ileid islands.

Anchorage may be had in Clam bay in 6 fathoms watei between
Rocket shoal and the shore.

Rose islets, five small rocky islets, the northernmost aboui 20 feef
high with a few bushes on it, lies half a mile westward from the north end
of Ileid island, but with no ship passage between. Ves.sels bound to Clam
bay from the northward should pass westward of these islets.

Yellow Cliff Anchorage.— There is fair anchorage on the
western side of Valdes island, 2 miles above Portier pass, immediately oil

CHAP, n.]

CLAM Bay. — DODD NARROWS.

a yellow clifif ; 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, will be found with the cliif bearing
N.W. by N. distant one quarter of a mile.

It will also be known by Shingle point, a low projection with a native
village on its extreme, one-third of a mile W. by N. from the yellow
cliff.

DODD NARROWS may te said to commence above Round
island (page 78), although the narrowest part is one mile distant from it. To
small vessels or steamers of moderate length and sufficient power, that
answer their helm quickly, this narrow pass offers no dangers. The strength
of the tide at its greatest rush is over 8 knots, the least depth of water
7 fathoms, and the narrowest part of the channel is 80 yards wide ; but this
is for a short distance, and the pass being nearly straight, a vessel is carried
through in a few moments. Vessels should, however, only pass through at
or nearly the time of slack water. The ebb stream sets across the northern
entrance to the Narrows.

Percy and Round island anchorage.— if bound through

Dodd narro^vd from ibe soutliward, and having to wait for slack tide,
there is fair anchorage witli bui little tide, westward of Round island in
6 fathoms, midway between it and the shore.

Percy anchorage on the north side of the Narrows, between Gabriola
and Mudge islands, is a convenient place to wait for the tide.

Mudge island separates Dodd narrows from the False ones.

Directions. — When proceeding for Dodd narrows from abreast Portier
pass, the mid-channel course is W.N.W. for about 3 miles, or until Ragged
Is'and and Reef point of Thetis island are in line bearing S.W. by S.

The most direct course is northward of Danger reef, between it and
f-ee island ; the latter is a small round wooded islet lying off the south
end of De Courcy islands ; this passage is two-thirds of a mile wide, with
t?-^; ths of from 25 to 30 fathoms.

Danger reef (page 78) consists of two rocky patches one cable's length
apart, the eastern of which is generally awash, and it should not be
approached within one-third of a mile ; if the reef should not be seen it is
recommended to pass one-quarter of a mile to the southward from Tree
island ; there is deep water between it and De Courcy islands.

The passage between White rock and Danger reef is likewise a very
good one ; it is half a mile wide, with depths of from 20 to 30 fathoms.
White rock is 15 feet high, and may be passed if necessary on either side
at the distance of 2^ cables. When the passage between Tree island and
the south point of De Courcy islands is open, the former b«>aring E.N.E.,
a vessel will bo northward of Danger reef, when a mid-channel course

9d< WESTERN CHANNELS, &C. TO GABRIOLA PASS. [chap. n.

for Dodd narrows is N.W. by W. and the distance 5 miles ; Round island
at their entrance should be seen ahead.

When passing np, keep on the eastern side of Round island at a con-
venient distance j the only directions necessary after this are to keep in
mid-cliannel, and to attend the steerage quickly and carefully. When
through the Narrows the strength of the tide ceases, and a vessel will be
in Northumberland channel, a fine wide passage leading to, and only 5 miles
from, the anchorage at Nanaimo.

When taking the Narrows from the northward, be careful not to mis-
take the False Narrows, on the northern side of Northumberland channel
(page 149) ; they are much wider than the real pass, but nearly dry at low
water. The Dodd narrows are n iO f^asy to pass through from the north
as from the south, as in the former oi slight bend that has to be made

must be made immediately on entering ; narrow part. The tides should
be studied in passing either way. Vessels should not attempt it with the
full rush of the sti-eam ; an hour before or after low water there is no
difficulty to a steam vessel.

AncllOrag6. — A convenient stopping place on the south side of the
Narrows to await the tide is, westward of Round island.

On the north side of the Narrows, temporary anchorage may be taken
up on the north shore off Mudge island.

Tides. — It is high water in Dodd Narrows at full and change at
3h. 30in. p.m., and low water at 9h. 30m. a.m., and at that period the flood
stream commences at low water and runs about 7 hours. The first of
the flood is the best time to pass the Nan-ows. Vessels leaving Nanaimo
and intending to pass down, should be at the Narrows an hour before
high or low water, as the tides are nearly an hour earlier there.

PYLADES CHANNEL.— The De Courcy islands are a group
extending 4J^ miles in an E.S.E. direction from Mudge island, which
separates the False from Dodd narrows, and on the northern side of the
group, between them and Valdes island, is Pylades channel, which leads
by the Gabriola pass into the strait of Georgia, as well as to the entrance
of the False narrows. The channel has an average breadth of one mile,
with a depth of 35 fathoms, and at its bead, near the entrance to the False
narrows, is good anchorage in 9 fathoms, convenient for vessels intending to
take the Gabriola pass and waiting for the tide.

False narrows are full of kelp, and shoal at low water, affording only
a boat passage into Northumberland channel. The passages between the
De Courcy islands are deep and navigable ; Ruxton passage between the
north and middle islands is half a mile wide, and free from danger ; the

CHAP. II.] PYLADES CHANNEL. — GABRIOLA PASS.

narrow pass between the middle and south island is scarcely one cable
wide, but has a depth of 5 fathoms.

GABRIOLA PASS, between the south end of Gabriola island
and the north end of Valdes island, is not recommended, unless for coasting
vessels knowing the locality, or steamers, if necessary, for it is a narrow
and intricate channel, something of the same character as Dodd narrows,
except that it is a much longer reach. Its direction is E.N.E. for little
over one mile, its narrowest part is not over 250 yards in breadth, and
the shoalest water is 6 fathoms.

An island nearly one mile long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, lies
over half a mile N.E. by E. from the narrow eastern entrance of the pass,
shoal water extends one-th'rd of a mile E.S.E. from the south-east end of
the island ; the channel from the pass into the strait of Georgia is between
the south-west side of this island, and a narrow ridge of low wooded islands
on the west side, off which a chain of covering rocks marked by kelp,
extends nearly 2 cables' lengths to the eastward.

Directions. — Proceeding through the pass into the strait of Georgia ;
when nearly half a mile E.N.E. from the narrows, steer S.E. by E. | E. for
three-quarters of a mile, when alter course to the eastward ; if bound to
the northward, the Gabriola reefs, bearing N. by E., distant from one to 2|
miles must be avoided. These latter are an extensive group of rocks
covering a space of nearly 1^ miles in a N.N.E. direction, uncovering at
low water, and lying 1^ miles, eastward from the Flat Top islands; much
broken ground exists iu their neighbourhood, and it is desirable to give
them a good berth (see page 142).

There is also a passage in a northerly direction, from the pass into the
strait, between the east extreme of Gabriola, and the islands off it, but it is
not recommended.

Telegraph. — Overhead telegraph wires are stretched across Gabriola
pass ; vessels having masts over 30 feet high, should not attempt to pass
under the wires.

The shore end of the telegraph cable laid from Point Grey (connecting
Vancouver island with the mainland) is landed at Valdes island, 2^ miles
south-east of Gabriola pass. Wires are thence carried to Nanaimo and
Victoria.

Tides. — The tides in Gabriola pass run from 5 to 6 knots.

CHAPTER III,

MIDDLE CHANNEL. — LOPEZ SOUND. — ORCAS WEST AND EAST

SOUNDS.

Variation from 23° C to 23° 10' East in 1888.

The MIDDLE CHANNEL* is thc>. centre of the three passages
leading from the strait of Fuca into that of Georgia, and is bounded by
San Juan island on the west, and the islands of Lopez, Shaw, and Orcas
on the east. Although a deep navigable ship channel, and eligible for
steamers of the largest size, the southern entrance is somewhat confined, and
subject to strong tides, with a general absence of steady winds ; the wide
straits of Eosario and Haro, on either side of it, are therefore far to be
preferred for sailing vessels above the size of coasters.

The general direction of the channel is N.N.W. for 5 miles, when it
trends to the W.N.W. for 7 miles to its junction with Douglas channel.
The southern entrance lies between the south-east point of San Juan and
the south-west point of Lopez island ; for 1^ miles its direction is N.N.W.,
and the breadth of the passage for tVis distance varies from two-thirds of
a mile to 4 cables' lengths ; abreast Goose island on the western side, it
does not exceed the latter bi-eadth. When entering, the d'-nger to be
avoided on the western side is the Salmon bank, extending southerly from
San Juan ; and on the eastern the Whale rocks, always out of water. The
tides in this entrance set from 3 to 6 knots an hour, with eddies and con-
fused ripplings ; when within the entrance, there is far Jess tide, and
Griffin bay, offering good anchorage, is easily reached.

Salmon bank extends l^ miles south from Cattle point, the south-
east extreme of San Juan island, a bare point about 50 feet high, the sloping
termination, of mount Finlayson, and the least depth of water found on it
is 10 feet, with rocky patches, marked in summer by kelp ; depths varying
from 4 to 9 fathoms extend for a further distance of three-quarters of a mile
in the same direction.

Whale rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance, are two black
rocks one cable's length apart, and 3 or 4 feet above high water ; a patch

♦ -See Admiralty chiirt : — Haro strnit and Middle cluiiinel, No. 2,340 ; scale, m
inch ; also Haro and Rosario straits, No. 2,689 ; scale, m = 0*5 inches.

CHAP. III.]

MIDDLE CHANNEL ; GRIFFIN BAY.

on which kelp grows, with one fathom water on it, extends 2 cables' lengths
S.S.E. from them, otherwise they are steep-to, but it is not recommended
to pass them nearer than one quarter of a mile, as the tides set strongly
over them.

Directions.* — Entering Middle channel from the westward or south-
ward, Cattle point should be given a berth of at least 1| miles. Mount
Erie, a remarkable summit on Fidalgo island 1,250 feet high, in line with
•Tennis point bearing N.E. by E. \ E. leads 1^ miles south of Salmon bank
in 13 fathoms ; when the entrance to the channel is open, bearing N.N.W.,
or when Goose island, a small islet on the western side of the entrance, is
in line with Orcas Nob bearing N.N.W. ^ W., a vessel will be well to the
eastward of the bank, and may steer in for the passage.^ Orcas Nob is a
remarkable conical hill, with a bare stony summit, 1,104 feet above the sea,
rising over the west side of Orcas island.

The bottom in the channel is rocky and irregular, varying in depth from
18 to 60 fathoms, causing overfalls and eddies which are apt to turn a ship
off her course unless the helm be given quickly to meet them ; but there
are no positive dangers after passing the Salmon bank : between this bank
and Cattle point there is a passage carrying 3^ fathoms, one-third of
a mile in breadth ; 5 fathoms will be found within one cable's length of
the point. The westernmost Whale rock seen in the centre of the
channel between Charles island and the north side of Mackaye harbour
leads through the middle of this naiTow channel, which, however, is not
recommended.

G-RIPFIN BAYJ is an extensive indentation on the eastern side of
San Juan, immediately within the southern entrance of Middle channel.
Although so spacious, yet from the great depth of water there is but a
limited portion of the bay available for anchorage, and this is in the
southern angle, immediately off the remarkable prairie land between two
forests of pine trees.

With all westerly or southerly winds Griffin bay affords good shelter ;
but with those from North or N.E. it is considerably exposed, and landing
is difficult in consequence of the long flat which extends off the beach.
These winds, however, ari not of frequent occurrence.

Half- tide rock, just awash at high water, lies IJ miles W. ^ N.,
from Harbour rock, and 4 cables from the western shore of the bay.

* See Admiralty chart ; — Griffin bay, No. 611 ; scale, m = 3'0 inch.

■f See Views A. and B. on Admiralty chart: — Haro strait and Middle channel,
No. 2,840; scale, w «= I-O inch.

X Sec Admiralty plan of Griffin bay and adjacent anchorages, No. 611 ; scale, m =
3 ' inches.

A 17498. * O

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[chap. hi.

There is another rock which <jovers at one-quarter flood, lying 4J^ cables
S.E j^ S. from Half-title rock, and one-third of a mile N. ^ W. from the
pier on the beach.

Directions. — Entering by the southern passage, Harbour rock on the
western side, nearly one mile within Goose island, may be passed at one
cable's length, keeping outside the kelp, which extends some distance off
it ; from one cable's length off Harbour rock to the anchorage is W.S.W.,
two-thirds of a mile,

AnchoragO. — The best anchorage is in 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with
the southernmost of the white cliffs on Lopez island on the eastern side of
the channel, kept well open of Harbour rock, bearing E. by N. ^ N., and
the black rocky extreme of Low point just open northward of Half-tide
rock, bearing W.N.W., the rock distant half a mile ; from this position the
water shoals rapidly towards the shore, and at 1^ cables nearer in there
are only 3 fathoms ; a stranger should drop an anchor directly 12 fathoms
is obtained.

NORTH BAY, in the north-west angle of Griifin bay, immediately
under Park hill (a bare grassy eminence about 180 feet high), aflPords
good anchorage in from 4 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom, with all winds but
those from S.E., to which it is somewhat exposed. The bottom hero is
more regular than in Griffin bay, and altogether it is perhaps a snugger
anchorage, though less convenient to shipping, being 3 miles from the
settlement.

AnchoragO. — Anchor in from 6 to 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with the
east point of Dinner island bearing S.S.E, | E., distant 4 cables, and the
south-east point under Park hill bearing E.N.E.

Tides. — The greatest rise and fall at the southern entrance of
Middle channel at full and change is 12 feet; but little stream is felt
at the anchorages. With the flood an eddy, of about one knot an hour,
sets to the southward in Griffin bay, and with the ebb in the opposite
direction. .,; ;r .; v.-i-A' :;«^

TURN ISLAND lies nearly 5 miles N.W. by N. from the south
entrance of the Middle channel. Its eastern point, a cliffy bluff", makes
as the extreme of the peninsula which forms the north side of Griffin bay,
Park hill rising immediately over its narrow neck. The island should be
passed at a distance of over half a mile, particularly going northward with
the flood ; there is a channel for boats or small craft between it and the
peninsula. - •"' .M •" ■' > ' ' ■»;,*5> ?

Turn rock lies nearly one quarter of a mile N^.E. from the island,
and covers at high water. The tide sets with great strength over this rock,

CHAP. III.]

TURN ISLAND. — FRIDAY HARBOTJIl.

and vessels passing up or down the channel arc recommended to give it
a good berth.

FRIDAY HARBOUR is on the nortli side of the peninsula,
immediately opposite to North bay ; it is rather confined, but ofFers good
anchorage, and is easily accessible to steamers or small vessels. Brown
iuland lies iu the entrance, and there is a passage on either side of
it; that to the eastward is narrow, less than one cable's length, but with
a depth of 14 fathoms. Vessels entering by this passage will find
anchorage in 7 fathoms in the bight immediately south of it, and distant
from the island one-quarter of a mile.*" There is a clear channel through,
inside the island, of more than one cable in breadth, and a depth of 6 or 7
fathoms.

The passage in, westward of Brown island, is the widest, being 3
cables across. In the centre of the entrance there is a rocky patch, with
a depth of 3^ fathoms at low water; it lies I ^ cables W.8.W. from the
cliffy point of the island. To avoid it vessels should pass to the westward
of it, keeping one cable's length oft" San Juan island shore.

Anchorage. — Anchor in 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with the passage
between the island and main open, and the west cliffy point of Brown
island bearing N.N.E. J E., and the south point of same island bearing

E. iS. "-^ ' ■'..•■'

Roid rock. — After rounding Turn island, Middle channel trends to
the westward, and Reid rock, the least water on which is 12 feet, lies right
in the fairway ; it is surrounded by thick kelp, which, however, is
sometimes run under by the tide. The rock lies l^^ miles W.N.W. from
the north point of Turn island, and three-quarters of a mile N.N.E. J E.
from the north-west cliff point of Brown island ; there is a clear deep
channel on either side of it. It is 4^ cables from the nearest point of Shaw
island, with a depth of 50 fathoms between ; and this passage on the
north side of the rock is recommended for vessels bound up or down
Middle channel, as, having to give the Turn rock a good berth, it is the
more direct one.

■ After passing Reid rock there are no dangers which are not visible.
From Caution point, one mile above the rock, on the western side, the
channel gradually increases in breadth, and varies but little from a W.N.W.
direction, the depth of water increasing to 60 and 70 fathoms. ..,,,.,

WASP ISLANDS. — On the eastern side of the channel arc the
group known as the Wasp islands, between and among which are several
passages leading between Shaw and Orcas islands, and communicating with

* The depth of water in the bight is from 13 to 15 fathoms ; the depth of 7 fathoms
is only on a small shoal patch. — Mr. John Devereux, 1886.

G 2

100

MIDDL3 CHANNEL, &C.

[OHAF. III.

the magnificent harbours anil sounds which deeply indent the '^ourhern
coasts of the latter.

ROCKY BAY, on the western side of Middle channel, 4 miles from
Caution point, does not afford much shelter, and vessels are not recommended
to use it unless in case of necessity. The small island, O'Neal, lies in the
centre of it. There is a depth of 14 fathoms between the island and San
Juan, but the bottom is rocky. A reef of rocks, on which the sea
generally breaks, extends 1^ cables off the San Juan shore, bearing
S.W. by S. from O'Neal island.

Jones island lies in the northern entrance of the Middle channel, or.
the cistern side, nearly half a mile from Orcns island, being separated from
the latter by Spring passage. The island is less than one mile in extent,
mostly wooded, but its western points are bare and grassy.

SPRING PASSAGE, between Jones island and the west side of
Orcas, is a safe deep-water channel, and saves some distance to a steamer
passing up or down Middle channel, by the Douglas channel. It is one
mile in length, 4 cables in breadth at its narrowest part, with an average
depth of 15 fathoms.

Some rocky patches extend one cable's length off the eastern side of
Jones island; and a rock which covers at 2 feet flood lies the same distance
north of a small cove on the north-east side of the island; a rocky
patch, with five fathoms water on it, lies 2 cables' lengths off the west
side of Orcas island, and 6^ cables N.E. by E. from the north-west end of
Jones island ; therefore it is desirable to pass through in mid-channel.

Passing up or down Middle channel, the north-east end of San Juan
should be avoided, as the tides are strong, and a sailing vessel is apt to be
drawn into the strong tide-rips and overfalls in the eastern entrance of
Spieden channel.

FLATTOP ISLAND, in the northern entrance of Middle channel,
2 miles N.W. by W. from Jones island, is one-third of a mile in length,
wooded, and about 100 feet high. At 2 cables' lengths off its western side
is a rock nearly one cable in extent and 26 feet above high water.
Between it and the island is a deep passage.

DOUGLAS CHANNEL may be said to be the continuation of
Middle channel, and leads into Haro strait, between Orcas and Waldron
islands. There are other passages leading into the Haro strait, viz., west-
ward of Flattop island, between it and Spieden and Stuart islands ; and
e istward of Flattop, between it and Waldron island. In the former, the
confused tides and eddies are liable to entangle a sailing ves.sel among

ctTAP. III.] SPRING PASSAGE.— DOUGLAS CHANNEL. 101

Spieden and tho neighbouring groups of small islands and rocks ; in the
latter, tho White rock with its ofl'-lying dangers offers serious impediments
to the safe navigation of the same class of vessels.

Douglas channel commences to the southward between Jones and Flat-
top islands, whence it takes a N. by E. ^ E. direction for 4 J miles, and then
turns N.N.W., crosses Haro strait, and at the distance of 6 miles enters
the strait of Georgia, between East point of Saturna and Patos island, or
between the latter and Sucia island. The narrowest part of the channel
is 1^ miles between Waldron and Orcas islands; the depth varies from 90
to 108 fathoms, and both .shores are free from danger. If necessary, vessels
will find a temporary anchorage in 12 fathoms water, in the bay, about

4 cables' lengths southward of the Bill of Orcas.

Directions. — The channel westward of Flattop island is less than
one mile in breadth at its narrowest part. Green point of Spieden island
is steep-to ; a tide-rip is generally met with off it. After passing Flattop
island, the channel course is N.W. by N. until Skipjack island opens of
Sandy point (Waldron island), bearing N. by E. ^ E. when u tourse may
be shaped either up or down Haro strait ; with the ebb, be careful not to
get set into the channel between Spieden and Stuart islands.

The channel eastward of Flattop island, between it and White rock, is
about the same breadth as the one just described, but Danger rock, with

5 feet water on it, which lies one-quarter of a mile S.E. by E. from the
centre of White rock, must be carefully avoided.

After passing Flattop island, keep its eastern side just touching the
western point of Jones island, bearing S.E. I E., and it will lead nearly three-
quarters of a mile westward of Danger rock; when Skipjack island opens
out northward of Sandy point, bearing N. by E. ^ E,, all the dangers are
cleared.

If passing between White rock and Disney point (the high stratified
cliff of Waldron island), the latter should be kept well aboard if the ebb
is running; or a vessel is liable to be set on the rock. The west bluff of
Sucia should by no means be shut in by the southern part c^ 7'aldron
island (these two points touching lead three-quarters of a mile c .L.rard of
Danger rock, but it must be remembered the ebb sets strongly down on it),
until Monarch head is well shut in with Sandy point, the latter bearing
N.W. ^ N., steer through with these marks on, and when White rock is in
line with the west side of Flattop island, bearing S. ^ W., a vessel will
be clear of all dangers, and may steer either up or down Haro strait, givinw
Sandy point a berth of half a mile.

Tides. — Sailing vessels working through Douglas channel should
bewai'e of getting too close over on the Waldron island shore, near Disney

( i

102

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[OUAP. US.

point, us witli calm or light wiud;^ they would run the risk of being uet by
tlio fbh on to Danger rock, on which the kelp is seUloia seen. Both flood
and ebb ^'ct fairly through Middle and Douglas channels, at the rate of
2 to 5 knots.

The ebb tide, coming down between Eiist point and Putos island, strikes
the north point of Wiildron island, and one part of it, together with the
stream between Patos and Suoia islands, passes down Douglas and Middle
channels. The other part sets between the Skipjack and Waldron islands ;
thence southerly through the groups in the neighbourhood of Stuart
island into Ilaro strait, as well as down Middle channel. It should bo ■
observed that the ebb stream continues to run down through the whole
of the passages in the archipelago, for 2\ hours after it is low water by
the shore, and the water has begun to rise.

PATOS ISLAND lies 2^ miles E.N.E. from East point of Saturnn ;
tlie passage between them being the widest, and at present most frequented,
though it is not always the best channel from Haro or Middle channels
into the strait of Georgia. Patos is IJ^ miles long in an east and west
direction, narrow, wedge-shaped, sloping towards its western end, and
covered with trees. Active cove at its western end is formed by a small
islet connected at low water, and affords anchorage for one or two small
vessels in 2 fathoms, but a strong tide-rip at the point renders it difficult
for a sailing vessel to enter.

The passage iuto the strait of Georgia between Patos and Sucia
islands, although considerably narrower than the one just mentioned, is for
several reasons at times to be preferred, especially for vessels passing
through Middle channel, or for sailing vessels with a N.W. wind. The
tides are not so strong, more regular, and set more fairly through ; the
passage is 1 J miles wide, and is almost free from tide rips. , r, :.

Directions. — if intending to take the passage between Patos and
Sucia islands, either up or down, an excellent mark for clearing the Plumper
and (elements reefs (dangerous patches lying southwt^rd and northward
from Sucia), is to keep the remarkable round summit of Stuart island
(642 feet high) just open westward of Skipjack island, the western-
most wooded island north of Waldron, bearing S.W. ^ S., this leads well
clear of both the reefs, and the same marks would lead across Alden bank
in 5 fathoms water.

If taking the passage from the Middle or Douglas chonnels, keep the
•white-faced cliffs of Roberts point well open westward of Pato.. island, the
cliffs bearing N.N.W. ^ W., until the marks before described are on, when
steer through the passage. If the ebb stream is running, it is better to
keep the Patos island shore abcnrd ; 16 fathoms water will be found on the

CflAP. 111.]

PATOS AND SUCIA ISLANDS.

103

' I

Sucift .shore, but it in not recommended to nnchor unless positively
necesanry.

When standing to the north-eastward, when Clark island is open of the
east end of Matia, or Puffin islet, the former bearing E.S.E., a vessel will
bo eastward of Clements reef.

SUCIA ISLAND is of a horse-shoe shape, remarkably indented on
its eastern side by bays and inlets, running in an east and west direction ;
the largest of these, Sucia harbour, aflbrds fair anchorage. The island is
from 20() to 300 feet high, thickly covered with pines, and its western
side a series of steep wooded bluffs.

Plumper reef, with lO feet water on it, lies 1^ miles S.W. by S.
from Lawson bluff, the highest north-west point of Sucia island; 2^ miles
N.N.W. from the Bill of Orcas, a remarkable bare knob point on the island
of that i^ame; and nearly 2 miles S. by E. from the east point of Patos
island. There is a deep passage between Pluir ►er reef and Sucia island,
but it is not recommended.

Clements reef, on which there is a depth of 9 feet, lies 1^ miles
N.P^. \ N. from Lawson bluff; one mile N.W. ^ W. from Ewing island
(the north-east point of Sucia) ; and 2 miles E. by N. from the east end of
Patos. Some rocky patches covering at high water, and marked by kelp, lie
between Clements reef and Ewing island, and it is not safe to pass between
them. There is a deep channel of more than one mile in breadth between
Sucia and Matia, the islaad to the eastward of it.

DirectiOUS. — Entering Sucia harbour from the northward, steer for
it, with the west point of Clark island in line with Puffin islet, about
S.E. by E., which leads between Alden bank and Clements reef ; when
Ewing island bears S.W. by S., alter course to about South, giving the
point of the island a berth of at least 3 cables, to avoid some rocky patches
which extend 2 cables S.E. from it. When the harbour is well open steer
up the centre W. ^ S. ; it is better to keep the southern or Wall island
ahoro rrtlier aboard, as it is quite steep, and vhere are some reefs extend-
ing one cable's length off the north shore. When the west point of Ewing
is just shut in by the east point of Sucia bearing N.E. by N., anchor in
the centre in 7 or 8 fathoms, mud bottom. If intending to make any stay
it is desirable to moc r, as the harbour is small for a large vessel ; it affords
good shelter from westerly winds ; with those from S.E. some swell sets in
but never sufficient to render the anchorage unsafe.

If entering from Douglas channel, keep Orcas bill just touching the
south bluff" of Waldron island, bearing S.W. | S. ; this leads well west-
ward of Parker reef. The south-east points of Sucia may be passed at

lot

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[chap. III.

i^m

one cable's length ; they are a scries of narrow islands the sides of which
are as steep as a wall, with narrow deep passages between them ; steer in,
keeping the northernmost of these islands aboard, to avoid the reefs on the
uoi'th side of the harbour. For a steamer it is i-ecommended to pass in
between the nortli and middle Wall islands, as it gives more room to pick
up a berth ; this passage, though less than one cable wide, has 12 and
lo fathoms water in it, and the wall-like sides of the islands are steep-to.

If bound to Sucia harbour from Rosario strait, pass on either side of
Barnes, Clark, and Matia islands as convenient ; if northward of the latter,
as soon as the harbour is open, steer for it, keeping the southern side
aboard as before directed, gr passing between north and middle Wall
islands ; if southward of Matia island, then do not stand so far to the
westward as to shut in the north part of Sinclair island with Lawrence
point, in order to avoid Parker reef.

Parker reef '^ of considewible extent, lying in the passage between
Sucia and Oreas islands ; at low water it uncovers one quarter of a mile of
rock and sand, but its eastern end always shows its rocky summit which is
just awash at high water. It lies 2^ miles N.E. ^ E. from Nob point (Orcas
bill), and 1^ miles S. ^ E. from the east point of Sucia. There is a passage
on both sides of the reef; that to the northward between it and Sucia is one
mile wide, v/ith a depth of from 35 to o5 fathoms ; that to tiie southward,
between it and Orcas, is half a mile wide, with a depth of from 6 to 8
fathoms, but a stranger is recommended not to use it, as the points of
Orcas at this part run ofl' shoal. If the northern passage is used, the north
part of Skipjack island kept in line with the south extreme of Pender
island bearing W.S.W., leads well clear of Parker reef. A part of the ebb
stream setting down between Sucia and Matia islands, runs to the westward
strongly over Parker reef, and through the channels on both sides of it ; the
flood sets in the contrary direction.

A patch of 3 fathoms lies at the distance of one-quarter of a mile W.S.W.
from Parker reef, with depths of from 4 to 5 fathoms extending for one-
third of p. mile from its west side.

MatiSl island, "^ little more than one mile eastward from Sucia, is
about one mile in extent, east and west, and has no dangers off it ; ou its
Bouthorn side are several boat coves. Close off its eastern extrenie is Puffin
islet, off which a flat rock extends 1^ cables' lengths.

Skipjack and Penguin islands are small islands lying
close ofl' the north side of Waldron island ; the former is considerably the
larger, and is wooded ; the latter is small, grassy, and bare of trees. A
reef which covers, and is marked by kelp, lies between the two, but
between this reef and Skipjack island thev? is a narrow passage of

■"

c;uAP. III.] PARKER REEF. — MACKATE HARBOUR.

105

8 fathoma. The tides, however, set strongly between the islands, iintl
it is not recommended ; neither, for the same reason, is the passage
between them and Waldron island unless to those thoroughly acquainted
with the navigation.

LOPEZ ISLAND, the southernmost of the islands, on the eastern
side cf Middle channel, helps to form the western side of Kosario strait,
as it does the eastern sides of the Middle channel. It is 9 miles long,
north and south, and 3 miles wide, thickly wooded, but differs from
all the other islands of the Archipelago in being much lower and almost
flat, except at its northern and southern oxtremesj v;hcre elevations
occur of a few auiulrcd feet. Its southern side is much indented
by bays and creeks, v/hich, however, from their exposed position
and rocky nature, cannot be reckoned on as anchorages ; on its western
side, in Middle channel, is a creek terminating in an extensive lagoon,
the former offering great facilities for beaching and repairing ships.
On the north shore is Shoal bay affording anchorage ; and on the
east is the spacious and excellent sound of T<opez, having an entrance
from Middle channel as well as three distinct passages from Rosario
strait.

MACKAYE HARBOUR, on the south coast of Lopez island,
2 miles eastward of the entrance to Middle channel, is entered between
Jennis point on the south, and Long and Charles islands on the north ; from
the latter it takes an easterly direction for one mile, and then trends to the
southward for a short distance, terminating in a low sandy beach. In the
entrance there are depths of from 8 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, but
with the prevailing south-westerly winds the anchorage is a gootl deal
exposed ; with northerly or easterly winds there would be fair anchorage.
Coasters or small vessels drawing 12 feet may get shelter in tlie south
bight ; Jennis point should bo passed at about 3 cables' lengths ; the
anchorage is 1^ miles from it.

Directions. — With south-westerly winds the -oast and islands on the
eastern side of Middle channel entrance, between Whale rocks and Jennis
point, should be avoided, as then a considerable sea sets in ; and when
passing the coast between Jennis point and cape Colvillc, it is desirable to
keep one mile off shore, as some straggling rocks exist, which will be
treated of under the hejid of Itosario strait.

Shark reef, on the western side of Lopez island, immediately within
Middle channel, and half a mile northward of White cliff, consists of two
rocks awash at low water, extending a little over one cable off shore, and
must be avoided by vessels working up the channel. There are no
dangers on the coast of the island for 2 miles north of this reef, but

106

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[chap. III.

large vessels working up are not recommended to approach nearer than one
quarter of a mile.

CAREEN CREEK, on the west side of Lopez island, is 4 miles
from the south entrance of Middle channel, and its entrance lies 2 miles
E. ^ N. from Turn island. The western entrance point is a low sandy spit,
close round which there are 3 fathoms water, and on it a vessel might, in
perfect shelter, bo beached and x'epaired with much facility ; the creek
terminates in a large s.'ilt lagoon.

UPRIGHT CHANNEL, separating Lopez from Shaw island, is
a deep steep passagCj with depths of from 20 to 28 fathoms, leading from
the Middle channel to the sounds of Orcas and Lopez, and by several
passages into Rosario strait. The narrowest part of the entrance is
between Flat point and Canoe island, and here for a short distance it is
scai-cely 2 cables in breadth.

Plat point is a low shingle or sandy point, with grass and small
bushes on it ; it is steep-to, and may be passed at less than one cable's
length.

Canoe island. — The shore of Canoe island is fringed by kelp,
close outside of which a vessel may pass ; a rock marked by kelp lies
one cable South of its south point. The tides are not considerable
in Upright channel, seldomr over 3 knots, and it is in all respects a safe
passage.

AncllOragC) may be had in 6 or 7 fathoms in Indian cove, westward
of Canoe island, with Flat point in line with the south point of Canoe
island ; the only precaution necessary is to avoid the kelp off the south point
of the island.

After passing Flat point, the channel opens out to three-quarters of a
mile, in a N.N.E. direction, with a depth of from 20 to 30 fathoms. At 1 J
miles from Flat point on the south side of the channel is Upright hill, the
steep cliiTy north extreme of Lopez island j it is covered with timber, and is
200 feet high.

SHOAL BAY, close eastward of Upright hill, extends in a S.S.E.
direction for one mile to its head, which is separated from ]*'alsc bay in
Lopez sound, by a low neck of land only one cable across. Although
apparently a considerable sheet of water, the anchorage for large vessels
is much limited by a shoal which extends more than half way across
from just within the point of Upright hill towards the eastern point
of the bay; the shoal then extends up the bay to its head, leaving the
greater half on the western side, with no more than from 2 to 3 fathoms at
low water.

iimnniHi

CHAP. HI.] UPEIGHT CHANNEL. — LOPEZ SOUND.

107

AnclloragG. — The best anchorage for large vessels is in 8 fathoms
with Upright point (the west point of the jay) in line with the east point of
Shaw island, bearing W. £ N., and the east point of Shonl bay S.E. by E. ;
one cable inside this position there are 4 fathoms ; the holding ground is
good. Vessels desiring to proceed up the bay after rounding Upright
point, wh'ch may be passed close to, must steer for the east point of the
bay, until within one cable's length of it, and then keep along the eastern
cliffy shore at thf same distance, when not less than 5 fathoms will be
found until within one-quarter of a mile from the head, where there is
anchorage in 4 fathoms ; the space between the eastern side of the shoal
and the eastern shore of '.he bay is nearly 2 cables.

LOF!EZ SOUND, on the eastern side of Lopex island, extends in
a S.8.E. direction for 7^ miles, or nearly the whole length of the island,
its head reaching within half a mile of the waters of Fuca strait. Its
eastern side is formed partly by Lopez and partly by Decatur and Blakely
islands, lying parallel with it ; and between these islands, as well as north-
ward of the latter, are passages leading into Rosario strait. The average
breadth of the sound is nearly 1^ miles, and there is a convenient depth
of water for anchorage in almost every part of it.

DirectiOUB. — The sound may be entered from the westward through
Midill(! and Upright charmels, and from the eastward by the Obstruction
passages, or by Tiiatchcr and Maury passages.

To enter from the westward, directions have been already given as far
an Upright point, the western point of Shoal bay ; from this point to the
shore of Blakely island opposite, the breadth of the entrance is 2 miles.
Until as far south as Frost island, which is nearly 2 miles within the
entrance of the sound, the general deptb of water is from 20 to 'SO fathoms.
Thatcher passage leading into Rosario strait, between Blakely ;md
Decatur islands, now opens out, and in proceeding up the sound the dt [>ih
soon decreases to 9 fathoms, varying between that and o fathoms for a
disl^anco of 2| miles, or as far up as Houston island, the breadth being
about 1;^ miles.

Middle bd.il?t, <>n which there are not less than 3 fathoms at low
water, is the only impediment between Frost and Houston islands. It
is half a mile in extent nortli and south, 2 cables east and west, and lies
almost in the centre of the sound, its north end being one-quarter of a mile
S.S.E. from the south end of Frost island, and 1^ miles S.W. by \V. \ W.
from the north entrance point of Thatcher passage, or south point of
Blakely isliiul. Betwetm Frost island f.ad the bank there are fioiu 9 to
14 fathoraa, and between the south ond of the baak and the west shore

lOS

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[chap. iir.

of Decatur island there is a channel one-third of a mile wide, with a depth
of from 6 to 20 fathoms ; close off this part of Decatur island is a ledge of
rocks always awash at high water. Between Middle bank and Houston
island there is anchorage in any part of the sound in from 5 to 7 fathoms,
mud bottom.

elust above Houston island, and abreast Mauiy passage (between the
south end of Decatur and the north-east point of Lopez), the water deepens
to 13 and 15 fathoms, and this depth is carried for 1^ miles, or as fitr as
Crown islet, a small steep rocky islet on the eastern side, within one mile
of the head of the sound.

Tides. — There is but little stream of tide felt in Lopez sound, unless
in the immediate neighbourhood of the narrow passages from Rosario

strait.

Entrance shoal, with 2 fathoms water on it, and marked by kelp,
must be avoided by vessels working in ; it lies 1 1 miles N.E. by E. ^ E.
from Upright point, and half a mile from the shore of Blakely island ;
there is deep Wiuer on either side of it.

False bay, on the west side of the sound, one mile from Shoal bay,
is only separated from it by a low narrow neck, one cable's length across, the
cliffy extreme of the peninsula being Separation point. A shoal, on which
there is a depth of 2 fathoms, extending from the centre of False bay, and
connecting with the small island of Arbutus, lying in its entrance, renders
it unlit for anchorage except for small vessels ; but vessels may anchor in
8 fathoms southward of Arbutus, between it and Frost island.

Half-Tide rock, covering at half flood, and not marked by kelp, is
in the track of vessels entering. It lies three-quarters of a mile S.E. by
E. ^ E. from Separation point, and 4 cables N.N.W. ^ W. from Arbutus
island. It is better to pass eastward of it, when it is not visible ; the point
of Upright hill kept just open of Separation point, bearing W. by N. ^ N.,
until the clay cliff of Gravel spit is in line with the east point of Arbutus
island, bearing S. by E., will lead clear of it.

Frost island, half a mile long north and south, lies close off Gravel
spit on the west side of the sound ; it is wooded, and its western side a
steep chft, between which and tho spit end there is a narrow channel
with a depth of 5 fathoms.

Black and CrOWU islets.— The Black islets are a ridge of steep
rocky islets, lying within and across the entrance of Maury passuge ; at
2 cables S. by W. from the southernmost of these islets is a rock which
covers at quarter flood. There is a passage of 8 and 9 fathoms on either
side of Crown islet, and anchorage above it in 5 or G fathoms, liit vessels
should not proceed far above, as at the distance of one-third of a mile it

CH\r. HI.]

LOPEZ SOUNi).— MAURY PASSAGE.

109

shoals to one and 2 fathoms, and dries for a considerable distance from
the head of the sound ; there is also good anchorage in o fathoms in the
bight, westward of Crow, ^ islet.

Passing up the sound between Crown islet and the western shore a
rocky patch of 2 fathoms must be avoided ; its lies one-qnarter of a mile
W. by N. \ N. from Crown islet, and 4 cables from the western shore of
the sound ; there are 12 fathoms close to it, and deep water in the passage
on either side of it.

Thatclier passage, between Blakely and Decatur islands, is the
widest and most convenient passage into Lopez sound from Rosario strait ;
it is 1^ miles in length, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a
general depth of from 20 to 25 fathoms.

The tides in Thatcher passage run from 2 to 4 knots.

LawSOn rock, lying almost in the centre of the eastern entrance, is
the only danger, and covers at 2 feet flood. It lies 4 cables N.W. by N.,
from Fauntleroy point, the south-eastern entrance point, in line with
Round head (half a mile to the southward), and a little more than half a
mile S. by W. ^ W. from the White rock. There is a good passage on
either side of the rock, but that tc the southward is the best.

Directions. — Entering Thatcher passage from the southward, if the
flood is running, the south shore should be kept pretty close aboard, as
until well within the passage it sets up towards Lawson rock.

When the passage between Decatur and James islands is shut in by
Fauntleroy point, a vessel will be just westward or inside the rock.*

Vessels entering by Thatcher passage, and drawing over 18 feet, should
avoid the Middle bank by keeping the south shore aboard within 2 cables ;
White rock in line with the south point of Blakely island leads over tlio
tail of the shoal in 20 feet.

The flood tide sets from Rosario strait through Thatcher passage both
up and down the sound ; a slight stream of flood also enters the sound
from the northward.

Maury passage, between Decatur island and the north-east point
of Lopez, is the southernmost entrarce to the sound from Rosario strait.
It is scarcely 2 cables wide at the entrance, with a depth of 12 fathoms;
Ihe Black islets lie across the western entrance, and it is necessary to keep
to the southward, between them and Lopez.

Obstruction passages. — Obstruction island lies in the centre ot
the channel, between the north point of Blakely and the south-east point
of Orcas island, and the passages on either side of it form safe and

* A small iron beacon placed on this rock would render the passage quite safe for any
clasB of Tessel.

110

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[OHAP. III.

couvenicnt oomnmnicatioii, by Upri^lit channel, between the Middle channel
and Rosario strait ; they likewise lead from Kosario strait to Orcas and Lopez
sonnds. These passes are more adapted to steam than sailing vessels,
although there would be no difficulty with a leading wind and fair tides.
Small vessels would find no difficulty if the tides were properly taken
advant.igc of.

North Obstruction Pass i« about l^ milcH long, and its average
breadth 2 cables. Entering from the eastward it takes a Avosterly
direction for two-thirds of a mile, then S.S.W. for nearly the same distance,
the narrowest part (less than two cables) occurring just after making the
bend ; the general depth of water is from H to 14 fathoms, and there are
no dangers which are not visible. In consequence of the bend in this
channel it has more the appearance of a deep bay, when seen from either
entrance. The east end of Obstruction island should not be ai)proached
nearer than one cable, as shelving rocks extend a short distance off it ; the
best course for a steamer is to keep in mid-channel. The eastern entrance
bears W.S.W. from Cypress cone, a remarkable bare peak on the north
end of Cypr(!ss island.

South Obstruction Pass, though narrower than the North, is
perhaps 1 he better channel of tlie two,asit is not more than three-quarters of
a mile in length, and is perfectly straight in a N.E. andS.W. direction. Its
naiTowest part is not much more than one cable wide ; the deptli of water
much the same as in the northern pass. On the south side of the eastern
entrance two rocks extend off Blakely island, the inner Ix'iug always above
high water ; the outer-, a long black rock, is nearly one-quarter of a mile off
shore, and is just awash at high water.

Entering from Rosario strait the pass should be brouglit well open
bearing S.W. before approaching it nearer than half a mile; in like
manner wlien passing into Rosario strait, if the black rock is not seen, a
N.E. course should be maintained until at that distance from the eastern
entrance. When the west point of Burrows island opens out eastward of
the east point of Blakely island, bearing S.E., a vessel will be half a mile
eastward of .any dangers. The south side of the pass appears like a round
wooded island, in consequence of the land falling abruptly behind it, where
there are two lagoons.

Tides. — The flood tide in both passes sets to the Avestward from
Rosario strait, and the ebb to the eastward ; the latter runs for nearly two
hours after it is low water by the shore ; the strength varies from 2 to 5
knots.

SHAW ISLAND is much of the same character as Lopez, though
considerably smaller, being about 3 miles in exvent i.i any direction.

OHAP. III.]

OBSTRUCTION PASSES. — WASP ISLANDS.

Ill

It is the continuation of the eastern side of the Middle channel, and
between it and Orcas island lie the Wasp {j;roup, among which are
several passages leading to Orcas and Lopez sounds, and into Rosario
strait.

WASP ISLANDS and PASSA.GES.-The Wasp islands,

five in number, besides some smalhir islets and rocks, lie on the eastern
side of Middle channel, between Shaw and Orcas islands.

TTellOW island, the westernmost of the group, is rather remarkable
from its colour, grassy and nearly bare of trees, the remainder of the group
being wooded ; from its west end a sandy spit extends one cable, having
at its extreme; a rock which dries at low water, and around which kelp
grows ; this point should be avoided when passing up or down Middle
channel.

Brown and Reef islands lie northward of Yellow island ; off
the west side of the latter a reef extends for more than one cable's length,
and several rocks surrounded by kelp, extend over one cable's length off
the west side of Brown island. Wasp passage leads through this group to
Orcas sound and Rosario strait. With the assistance of the chart a steamer
would find but little difficulty in passing through it, though the passage
by Upright channel is to be preferred.

Crane island, on the northern side of Wasp passage, is wooded, and
much larger than either of the Wasp group.

Nob islet is a remarkable round islet, 50 feet high, \^ iih two or
three bushes on its summit ; it lies just westward of Cliff island.

Directions. — Passing between Brown and Reef islands, where the
channel is nearly one-quarter of a mile wide, with a depth of 9 fathoms,*
Bird rock (awash at high water) may be passed on either side ; the widest
passage is to the eastward of it, between it and Crane island, where the
channel is one-quarter of a mile across, and has a depth of 15 fathoms. The
passage northward of Crane island is so narrow that it appears joined
to Orcas. After passing Bird rock steer to the southward of Crane
island, between it and Cliff island (the south-easternmost of the Wasps),
and thence between Crane island and the north end of Shaw island.

For two-thirds of a mile the channel is of a good breadth, with no
dangers until approaching the east end of Crane island, when it narrows to
little more than one cable. Tho steep cliffy shore of Shaw island must
now be kept aboard to avoid the Passage rock, which lies 1^ cables

* II. M.S. Sparrowhawk passed over u depth of 4 fathoms surrounded bj- kelp, lying
between Reef and Brown islands.

112

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[OHAP. in.

eastward of Passage island. Nob islet, just touching the north end of
Cliff island, and just open southward of the south side of Crane island,
leads one cable's length south of Passage rock, which is covered at 2 feet
rise.

When Orcas nob is just over the narrow passage between Double
islands and the west shore of West sound, bearing N.N.W. | W. a vessel is
eastward of Passage rock, and may steer up West sotind, or eastward for
East sound, or Rosario strait. Passing out of West sound the same marks
are equally good ; steer down just westward of Broken point (a remark-
able cliffy peninsula on the north side of Shaw island) until they are in
line, when steer for them, giving the south side of Crane island a moderate
berth, and passing out of Wasp channel, as before directed for entering it.

If desired, a vessel may pass into Wasp channel to the southward of
Yellow island, between it and Low island (a small islet), thence north-
ward of Nob islet, and as before directed, between Crane and Cliff
islands.

There is another passage into Wasp channel southward of Cliff island,
between it and Neck point, the remarkable western extreme of Shaw
island. The breadth between them is a little over oue cable, but there is a
patch of 4 fathoms, with kelp on it, in the centre of the passage. If taking
this channel there is a reef lying S.W. ^ S., and extending more than one-
qnarter of a mile from the south-west end of Cliff island; this reef is
sometimes covered., and is the only danger known that is not visible.

These two latter passages are the shortest into the Wasp channel for
vessels from the southward. The eye will be found the best guide ; a
good look-out is necessary, and to a steamer there is no difficulty. To the
northward of Crane island, between it and Orcas, there is a narrow channel,
but though deep it is only fit for boats. ■ * '.. . i

Tides. — The flood iide sets to the west in the eastern entrance of
Wasp channel, but in the western entrance the flood from the Middle
channel partially sets to the eastward, and causes some ripplings i.\moag
the islands, which may be mistaken for shoal water. •..'.-«>

North, passage. — This clear deep channel leading to Deer harbour,
the westernmost port in Orcas island, lies between Steep point, (the
f<outh-west point of Orcas), and Reef island, (the northernmost of the Wasp
rrroup). It is nearly one-quarter of a mile wide and 20 fathoms deep, and
the only danger to avoid is the reef off the west side of the latter island.
To enter Deer harbour ; after passing Jones island, keep Steep point and
the shore of Orcas aboard within 1^ cable's lengths, until past Reef
island, when haul up to the northward and anchor as convenient. Deer
harbour may be entered equally well between Reef and Brown islands;

CBAF. III.]

WASP PASSAGES.— ORCAS ISLAND.

113

a patch of 2 fathoms lies nearly one cable S.W. by W. from the north-west
point of the latter.

ORCAS ISLAND is the most extensive of the group known ns
the Haro archipelago, and contains the finest harbours. It is mountainous
and in most parts thickly wooded, although in the valleys there is a con-
siderable portion of land available for agricultural purposes, and partially
clear of timber. Its southern side is singularly indented by deep soundn,
which in some places almost divide the island ; this is particularly the
case in the East sound, separated only from the waters of the strait of
Georgia by a low neck of land one mile across. On the eastern side of
this sound, mount Constitution rises to an elevation of 2,420 feet, wooded
to its summit ; on the west side is the Turtle Back, a long wooded range
1,600 feet high, and west of it, rising immediately over the sea, is the
singular bare top cone known as Orcas nob, a remarkable object r/hen
seen either from the north or south.

Deer harbour and West and East sounds are on the south side of the
island; but on the western and northern sides there is no convenient
anchorage. A vessel might drop an anchor, if necessary, southward of the
Bill of Orcas, (a remarkable projecting bare point, with a nob on its
extreme) where 12 fathoms water will be found within one cable's length of
the shore ; a small vessel might also anchor in 4^ fathoms, just inside a
small islet in the bay two-thirds of a mile southward of the Bill.

The north coast is steep and precipitous, except between the Bill and
Thompson point, a distance of 2^ miles ; here occurs the low land at the
head of East sound, and the points are shelving with large boulder stones
extending some distance off; immediately off this part of the coast is
Parker reef (see page 104).

Thompson point is bare and cliffy ; from it the coast forms a
slight curve easterly to Lawrence point, distant 6 miles.

Lawrence point, the sloping termination of the high range of
mount Constitution, is the eastern extreme of Orcas island ; on its
northern side it is a steep and almost perpendicular cliff, and from it
the coast turns abruptly to the southward, forming the western side of
Bosario strait ; 4 miles southward from the point is the entrance to North
Obstruction pass.

DEER HARBOUR, the westernmost of the three ports of Orcas,
is conveniently entered from the Middle channel by North passage, between
Steep point (Orcas island) and Eeef island; or between the latter and
Brown island of the Wasp group. The harbour is one mile long in a
north and south direction, and about the same bi-eadth at its southern end ;

A 17498. H

114

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &0.

, '. '<•■

[OHAP. m.

it nnrrowe, however, rapidly, and terminates in a shoal creek, and fresh
water streams fed from a lake.

Pawn islet lies off the steep cliffy shore of the west side of the
harbour ; below it the depth varies from 10 to 15 fathoms ; abreast and
abovo it from 5 to 8 fathoms, mud bottom.

Auchorage. — A. convenient berth is in 7 fathoms, half-way between
Fawn islet and the eastern shore, or a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, will be
found one-quarter of a mile above the islet. Between Fawn islet and the
western shore is a passage one cable wide with 9 fathoms. There are
no dangers to te avoided in this harbour, except a reef of rocks
extending from the north side of Crane island ; the west end of this island
in line with the west end of Cliff island (Wasp group) bearing S. by
W. ^ W. leads on to the western edge of this reef, on which there is only
one fathom water. If working up the harbom', a vessel should not stand so
far to the eastward as to shut in the east end of Cliff island behind the west
end of Crane island ; this will lead more than one cable clear of the reef.

WEST SOUND may be entered from Middle channel, either by
the Wasp ^r Upright tmssages already described, or from Eosario strait
by either of the Obstruction passes. Having entered by the Wasp p' jsage,
cleared the Passage rock, and being off Broken point (a remarkable cliffy
point, the extreme of a small peninsula on the north side of Shaw island)*
West sound will be open, extending in a N.W. ^ N. direction for more
than 2 miles, with Orcas nob immediately over the head of it. The
sound is about three-quarters of a mile broad, with depths of from 10 to
16 fathoms, and no hidden dangers. ' ' •

AnchoragO ™ay he had in any part above Double islands, which lie
close off" its western shore, half a mile N.W. from Broken point, but the
snuggest anchorage, and the best for vessels intending to make any stay, is
either in TVTiite Beach bay, on the eastern shoi-e, or in Massacre bay at the
north-west head of the sound.

"White Beach, bay, so named from the quantities of white clam
shells lying on its shores, and giving them the appearance of white sandy
beaches, is on the eastern side of the sound, 2 miles above Broken point ; a
small islet, Sheep islet, lies in the middle of the bay, nearly connected with
the shore at low water.

Anchorage. — There is good anchorage in 9 fathoms water, with Sheep
islet bearing N.E. ^ N., and Haida point, the northern point of the bay,
N.W. by W., distant one-quarter of a mile.

Massacre bay is the continuation of the head of West sound,
between Haida a..\d Indian points, and the anchorage is nearly one mile

11-1LL..U1MP1.

CHAP. 111.] DEER HARBOUR. — WEST SOUND. — HARNEY CHANNEL. 115

above White Bench bay. Harbour rock, covering at one-third flood, lies
almost in the centre of the bay, between the two entrance points, one-third
of a mile W. ^ S. from Haida point, and nearly three cables E.N.E. from
Indian point on the opposite shore ; it may be passed on either side in a
depth of 9 fathoms. If to the eastward, Haida point shonld be kept within
1^ cables ; if to the westward, the eastern cliffy part of Broken point, and
the eastern side of Double islands kept in line astern bearing R.E. ^ S.,
leads nearly one cable westward of the rock ; when Indian point beara
South, good anchorage will be found in the centre of the bay in 8 fathoms^
mud bottom. -

HARNEY CHANNEL) between Orcas and Shaw islands, con-
nects the West and East sounds of Orcas. It commences at Broken point,
and takes an easterly direction for 3 miles, when it enters Upright channel
between Foster and Hankin points ; the foVmer is a low sloping green
point, the southern termination of the peninsula which separates the two
sounds ; the latter is the eastern bluff wooded point of Shaw island. The
depth of water in this channel varies from 20 to 30 fathoms, and its
average breadth is half a mile, though it narrows for a short distance about
its centre to one-quarter of a mile. ' ^

The north side of Harney channel is a series of small bays with shingle
beaches, and there is a deep cove two-thirds of a mile west of Foster point ;
just westward of this cove, and N.W. from Hankin point, is a rocky patclv
which lies more than one cable off shore, and covers at half flood.

Camp cove is immediately northward of Foster point ; it is a conve-
nient cove for boats, or a small vessel might anchor there in 6 fathoms ;
there is a good stream of fresh water running into it. */ .

High Water rock lies more than one cable's length fi*om the shore,
half a mile north-eastward from Foster point ; it is awash at high water,
and there is a depth of 8 fathoms between it and the shore.

Blind bay is on the south shore, midway between Broken and
Hankin points. A small round islet partially wooded lies in the centre of
the entrance, and a reef of rocks covering at high water extends from its
western point, almost choking the entrance on that side, but leaving a
narrow passage close to the islet ; a rock covering at one-quarter flood also
lies off the eastern side of the islet, leaving a channel of 5 fathoms almost
equally nan'ow on that side, so that the bay is only eligible for coasters,
which should keep the island close aboard when entering ; the eastern side is
the best. ..

Anchorage in 4 or S fathoms may be had with the islet bearing
N.N.W., distant 2 cables.

H 2

116

MIDDLE CHANNEL, &C.

[ciui*. lit.

EAST SOUND. — Entering this sound by Upright channel, or
through thn Wasp passages and Harney channel, when abreast IJ pright
hill (from which Diamond point, the western point of the sound, bears
North distant 2 miles) its entrance will be easily made out. If by the
Obstruction passes, as soon as a vessel i? at their western entrance, the
whole length of the sound will be open bearing N.W. ^ W.; remarkable
conical hills, over 1,000 feet high, rise on both sides of the entrance, which
is between Diamond and Stockade points. From between these points
the sound takes a N.W. by W. direction for 6 miles, and is three-quarters
of a mile broad for 2 miles ; it then contracts at Cascade bay to half a mile,
and opens out again above to more than one mile wide; the head of the
sound terminates in two bays, separated by a jutting cliffy point. The
general depth of water in the sound is 15 fathoms.

StOCkadO bay, on the eastern side of the entrance to the sound,

nearly one mile North of Stockade point (the north-western entrance point
of North Obstruction pass) affords anchornge in 8 fathoms, at about 3 cables'
lengths from the shore ; there is a good stream of fresh watei- running into
the bay ; with a strong S.W. wind some swell sets into this anchorage.

Green bank, on the western side, immediately opposite Stockatle bay,
is a Imnk of sand extending half-way across the sound ; on it there are
depths of from 5 to 9 fathoms, with one patch of 4 fathoms, and a vessel
might anchor on it if necessary, as being more convenient than the deep
water immediately off it. The best anchorage is in 6 fathoms at half a mile
North of Diamond point, with a small green islet, which lies just off a
white shell beach, bearing West, distant about 4 cables.

Cascade bay, on the eastern side of the sound, 2 miles above
Stockade bay, is formed by a small hook of land facing the S.E. Anchor-
age may be bad 1^ cablesMengths from the beach in 10 fathoms; but it
would not be a desirable place to lay with a south-easterly wind.

Water. — A large stream falls by a cascade into the above bay, and it
would be a convenient place at which to water a ship. , , : >>

Fishing and Ship bays. — Fishing bay, the westernmost of the
two bays at the head of the sound, has good anchorage in 10 fathoms, with
Arbutus point, the cliffy extreme of the jutting peninsula before
mentioned, bearing* N.E., midway between it and the west side of the
sound. ' :■,"..,' ',! . J, ,

Ship bay, eastward of Arbutus point, runs off shoal for 2 cables' lengths,
■or nearly to the extreme of the point ; but it affords good shelter, perhaps
better than Fishing bay. There is good anchorage in 9 fathoms, mud
il)Ottom, with Arbutus point bearing W. by N., distant 3 cables.

117

CHAPTER IV.
R08ARI0 STRAIT AND SHORES OF GEORGIA STRAIT.

Vftimtion 22' 55' to 23° lU' East, in 1888.

ROSARIO STRAIT* is the oasternraost and one of the principal
channels leading from Juan de Fuca strait into that of Georgia. Its southern
entrance is botweon Lopez and Fidalgo islands, and from thence its general
direction is from N.N.W. to N.W, for 25 miles, when it enters the latter
strait. Its western shores are formed by Lopez, Decatur, Blakely, and
Orcas islands ; its eastern by Fidalgo, Cypress, Sinclair, and Lummi islands,
as weU as by the coast of the main land.

Like Haro strait, the Ilosario has several smaller channels which branch
off to the eastward, and lead between islands to the United States settle-
ments in Bellingham bay, or by a more circuitous route into the strait of
Georgia itself; among the principal of these channels, are Guemos, Bel-
lingham, and Lummi. The greatest breadth of the strait is 5 miles at its
southern entrance ; the narrowest, is about the centre, between Blakely
and Cypress islands, where it is less than 1 ^ miles ; the depth varies from
25 to 15 fathoms, occasionally deeper.

The principal dangera are the Bird and Belle rocks, which lie almost in
the centre of the strait, 4 miles within the southern entrance. There are
several anchorages available for vessels delayed by the tides or other
causes ; Davis bay on the eastern side of Lopez island, 3 miles within the
southern entrance; Burrows bay, immediately opposite it under mount
Erie on the yest side of Fidalgo island ; Ship bay in Guemes channel ;
and Strawberry bay, on the western side of Cypress island, are the prin-
cipal. Vessels entering Fuca strait, and bound to any of the ports of
Puget sound, or up Rosario strait, either by day or night, should make
New Dungeness light {.fixed white), which is 69 miles from the light at
Tatoosh island (see pp. 18, 19, 25), and then Smith or Blunt island.

Tides. — The tides in Rosario strait are strong, from 3 to 7 knots in^
the narrower parts.

SMITH or BLUNT ISLAND lies almost in the centre of the
eastern end of Fuca strait, 13^ miles N.N.E. \ E. from New Dungeness,
and 6 miles Soufi from the entrance of Rosario strait. It is about
half a mile in length, cliffy at its western end, and 50 feet high ; a large
kelp patch extends for nearly one mile and a half from the western extreme,

* Set Admiralty chart : — Haro and Rosario straits, No. 8,689 ; scale; mso-6 inches.

HMff

118

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap. IV.

which should be avoided ; there are fathoms water ou its outer edg«.
From the eastern end of the island, which is low, a sand spit extends in a
north-easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, partially covered at high
water ; on the north side of this spit there is anchorage in 5 fathoms, sandy
bottom, about half a mile from the shore, and in a direct line between the
high water end of the spit and the extreme of the kelp off the west end of
the island ; but n^ vessel should lie here with any appearance of bad
weather. The ebb tide here, as in the narrower straits, runs from 2 to 2^
hours after low water.

Beacon. — A beacon has been erected on Minor island, at the ex-
tremity of the spit extending from the eastern end of Smith or Blunt
island.*

LIGHT. — On the summit of Smith or Blunt island, near the west end
is a lighthouse painted whito, with a vl '' lantern, from which, at an elevation
of 90 feet above the sea, is exhibited a Avhite light, which /lashes every
ha/f minute, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of
15 miles.

DIREiCTIONS. — Having made Smith island, which vessels bound
from sea up Rosario channel should do on about a N.E. ^ E. bearing, it may
be passed on either side ; but to the northward appears most convenient.
When Duiigeness lighthou' bears S. by W. keep it on that bearing,
astern, steering N. by E., which leads midway ijetwcen Smith island and
the Fonte bank, an extensive kelp patch lying 8 miles W. ^ S. from it, on
which the least water yet found is .3^ fathoms (see page 49) ; by day this
patch will be always seen in time to avoid it.

When the lighthouse on Smith island bears E. by S. a vessel will be to
the northward of the patch, and a course may be steered for tiie entrance of
the strait, which, however, should not be entered at night, until there is a
light on Bird or Belle rocks, unless by those perfectly acquainted with
the navigation, and the state of the tide. If passing to the southward
of Smith island, remember to avoid Partridge bank, the least water on
which; 2^ fathoms, is 3?f miles W. by N. ^ N. from Partridge point, a
remarkable white-faced cliff on the mainj and 3^ miles S.S.E. ^ E, from
the lightliouse on Smith island. The north-western edge of the bank ia
marked by a black buoy.* {Sec page 27).

Vessels from the southern parfti of Vancouver island, bound up Rosario
strait, should of course pass northward of Smith island. The only dangers
to be avoided are the Salmon bank, with 10 feet of water over it, off the
south end of San Juan, and the Davidson rock off Colville island. Mount
Erie (on Fidalgo island) in line with Jennia point, bearing N.E, by E. \ E.,
leads IJ miles south of the former, and it is not recommended to pass the

* Lieut. R. flf. Powell, R.N., II.M.S, Caroline, 1887.

mrnamBrms

CHAP. IV.]

SMITH ISLAND. — DAVIS BAY.

110

♦

southern sido of Lopez island at less than one mile, which will ensure
clearing the latter ; moreover, the coast is ro^^ky, and the flood tide sets
on to it. There are several indentations, with sandy beaches, on the
south side of Lopez, which, although offering shelter for boats, are not
recommended u^ anchorages for vessels.

Cape Colvill©, the south-eastern extreme of Lopez island, Is the
western entrance point of Rosario ' strait ; Walmouth hill, flat-topped, and
about 450 feet high, rises immediately over it.

Colville island, small, ami bare of trees, about 40 feet high, lies
one mile S.S.W. from the cape ; close to the cape, and appearing from most
points of view a part of it, is Castle island, a high precipitous rock.
Entering the strait, Colville island should be given a berth of one mile.

Davidson rock, on which is only a depth of 4 feet t'. low water, and
occasionally uncovering at low springs, lies a little more than 3 cables East
from the east end of Colville island, and nearly one mile South from the
cape itself ; kelp grows about tho rock, but the patch is so small that it is
difficult to make out. Kellett island, or cape St. Mary, kept open of tho
extreme of cape Colville, bearing N.N. \V., leads half a mi!o to' the eastward
of the rock, and Eagle point (San Juan) kept open of the south end of
Lope/ island, bearing W. ^ N., leads one mile southward of it.

Kellett island is 'i small flat-topped islet, covered with grass, lying
inmiediatoly northward, and close off the low extreme of capo Cohille.

Kellett or Hulah ledge.— Cape St. Mary, the next point north-
Avard of capo Colville, and a little more than one mile from it, forms tlie
southern point of Davis bay.

Kellett or Hulah ledge, with one fathom water on it, and marked by kelp,
lies 3 cables N.E. by N. from cape St. Mary ; there is a deep passage
between it and the capo. Vessels passing outside it should give the cape i
berth of over half a mile.

DAVIS BAY.— Anchorage.— Da^ns bay affords good and
convenient anchorage in a moderate depth of water. After rounding Ilidah
ledge, a vessel may stand to the westward into tho bay, and anchor
in 6 fathoms, mud bottom, at little more than half a mile from the shore,
with cape St. Mary bearing S.E. by S.; inside this tho water shoals rather
suddenly to 2^ and .3 fathoms. A kelp patch, on which there is shoal water,
lies one mile N. by W. from the cape. There is anchorago in IVoni 4 to 8
fathoms anywhere within one mile of the east shore of Lgi)oz and Decatur
islands, from a little northward of cape St. Mary, as far north as tho white
clift of Decatur island, avoiding the kelp patches just mentioned, or while
the Bird rock bears anything to tho noithward of East, and but little tide
will bo felt. With the Maury passage open, bearing West, there is good

mmBmmmmm

120

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap. IV,

ancborage, at from half a mile to one mile from the shore, in from 6 to 8
fathoms.

B arrows bay, on the eastern side of the entrance to Rosario strait,
is well marked by mount Erie, a remarkable conical hill, rising 1,250 feet
immediately ov^r it, at one mile from the coast. The bay is sheltered from
wetjterly and south-westerly winds by Burrows and Allan islands, and
affords good anchorage to vessels wind or tide bound.

Williamson rock, 22 feet above high water, lies in the southern
entrance of the buy, half a mile south of Allan island.

Directions. — The best entrance, which is one mile in breadth, is to
the southward of Williamson rock, betvveen it and Fidalgo island. On the
eastern side of Allan island the water is deep for half a mile off shore,
having depths of from 18 to 25 fathoms. The eastern shore of the bay
is shoal for 3 cables' lengths off the beach, and in one spot a boulder,
awash at low water, lies nearly 4 cables' lengths off, and nearly 1| miles
E. by N. ^ N. from the south point of Allan island.

Vessels from the northward may enter Burrows bay by the passage
northward of Burrows islaud, or between the latter and .AHau island ; they
are about an equal breadth, a little over 2 cables wide at their narrowest
part, free from danger, and lie nearly east and west ; in the northern,
passage depths of from 10 to 20 fathoms will be found ; in the southern,
between the islands, from 20 to 30 fathoms, the latter is the sstraighter.

Anchorage may be had in 6 fathoms, with the passage between
BurroAvs and Allan islands open bearing W.S.W., iialf a mile from Young
island ; but the most sheltered anchorage is in 12 fathoms at the north
head of the bay, half a mile from the east*?rn shore of Burrows island, with
the passage shut in, and Young island bearing S. by W. ^ W., if, however,
only a temporary anchorage is desired, the former will be found the most
convenient.

Tides. — The ebb tide sets to the eaatward into both passages, at the
rate of 3 to 4 knots during springs.

Dennis rock. — There is a deep channel half a mile in breadth, between
Williamson rock and Allan island, but vessels taking it, or working up
westward of the latter island, must avoid Dennis rock, which has 2 feet
on it at low water and rarely uncovers. It lies nearly 6 cables N.W. by W,
from Williamson rock, and the same distance W.S.W. from the south end of
Allan iiiiand.

DECEPTION PASS.— At 2 miles southward of the south entrance
to Burrows bay is a narrow chaimel separating Fidalgo from Whidbey
ieland, and connnunicating with the waters of Puget sound and Admiralty

wmmm

CHAP. IV.] BURROWS BAY. — BIRD AND BELLE ROCKS.

121

inlet ; but it is ouly eligible for such small vessels or steamers as arc well
acquainted with the locality. The tides set through it with great
velocity.

Ija>W8011 reef, o'^ which there is only a depth of 3 fathoms at low
v'Citer, is a ledge of small extent lying Ij^j miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from the
West point of Deception island at the entrance to Deception pa.ss.

Bird rock, iyi"g almost in the centre of Rosario strait, nearly 4 miles
N. 4 E. from cape Colville, is composed of three detached rocks close
together, the southernmost being the largcstjfand 30 feet abovci high water.
There i,s deep water close to it, but on account of the strong tides, sjuliug
vessels working up or down, particularly during light winds, are recom-
mended to give it a berth of half a mile. There is an equally good
passage on either side of the rock ; that to the eastward is the wider
(2 miles across) ; to the westward it is one mile wide, with somewhat less
tide. By taking the latter channel with a leading wind, :i stranger will
more easily avoid the Belle rock ; passing Bird rock at a convenient
distance, steer jut^t outside, or to the eastward of James i.slarid, until the
piissage between Guenies and Fidalgo islands is open.

BeliO rock, the most serioup danger in the Rosario strait, only un-
covers near low water, and the tides set over it from 2 to 5 knots. It lies
6 cables .N. by E. J E. f\om the Bird rock, and in the passage l)ctween thetn
are depths of 8 to 20 fiUhoni ;. /, Vc!4sels, however, are recommended not to
pass between thoni except in cases of necessity. 'J'he Bellt rock is easily
avoided by day ; if passing to the eastward of it, keep Lawrence point, (the
eastern point of Orcas island), just shjt irs by Tide point (the western
iixtremeof Cypress island), bearing N.N.W., which will lead more than half
a mile clear of it ; when the passage betv, een Guenies and Fidalgo islands
is just open, a vessel will be more'than one mile to the northward of it.

If taking the channel westwanl of Bird rock, keep that rock well east-
ward of cape Colville until Guemes channel is open. The great danger of
the Belle rock to a sailing vessel, is, being left with a light wind in the
centre of the strait, as the water is too deep to allow of an anchor holding
in 80 strong a tideway.

JamOS island, almost {divided in the centre, is a remarkable saddle
island with two summits, 2oO^Jeet high, lying dose oiF the east side of
Decatur island ; then' are no dangers on its olTor eastern side.

White and Black rocks ure three-quarters of a mile apart, and
lie off the south-east shore of Biakcly island. White rock, the southern-
most, is 16 feet above high water and a little more <han one-quarter of a
mile from the shore at the eastern ciitrancn of Thatcher passage (.v#?f page
100). Black rock, 10 feet high, lies three-quarters of a mile N.E. by IS'.

122

itUSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap. ir.

froHj Wliito rock, and half a milo from Blakely island ; there is a deep
channel between these rocks, as also between them and Blakely island.

CYPRESS ISLAND, northward of Fidalgo, forms a portion of
the eastern side of Ro,«ario strait. It is 4 miles long, Ijy about 2 in breadth,
and its high summits, rising to li,o25 feet, are thickly wooded with pine,
and white cedar trees ; on its northern extreme, a remarkable bare, rocky
cone rises immediately over the sea to 720 feet. A reef of boulder stones,
some of which uncover, with kelp growing about them, extends half a
mile off the south-west point of the island ; the outer boulder covers at half
flood. Between Cypress and Blakely islands is the narrowest part of
Rosario strait, being 1^ miles across, and here the tides during springs
occasionally run between 6 and 7 knots.

STRAWBEBRY BAY, on the western side of Cypress island,
will bo known by the small island of the same name, which lies immodiatelj'
off it, 1:| miles N.W. from Reef point, the south-west extreme, and protects
the bay from the westward ; it is rather a confined anchorage, and at
certain times of tide would be diffic dt of entrance to a sailing vessel.

The bay is exposed to S.S.E. winds, which, however, do not frequently
blow ; from S.E. it is sheltered, and there is no reason to doubt but that,
with good ground tackle, a vessel would ride out any gale. There is
a passage of 10 fathoms water to the northward between Strawberry and
Cypress islands; and in the event of parting or slipping, a vessel should
run through this passage, and lake shelter in Birch or Semiahmoo bays (sec
pp. 125, 126).

Directions. — -A saiHng vessel should not attempt to enter the bay
during the strength of the tide, unless with a commanding breeze, and
should remember that the tides eet with great strength against the points of
Strawberry island; it was remarked that, while the ebb was running
strongly in Rosario strait, which it continues to do for 2\ hoin-s after low
water, a stream of flood set to the northward through Strawbeny bay, as
soon as it was low wu^^r by the shore.

Anchorage. — About S cables from the Handy bight of the bay, with
the north bluff of Strawberry island bearing W.N.W., and the sotith point
of this island S.W. by S., is the best berth, in 7 fathoms, good holding
ground, und nearly out of the tide, which sets with eonsiderahle strength
inside Strawberry islnn«l.

Water. — There is a belt of flat marfdf-land in Strawberry bay, through
which several streams of good water run from the mountains.

Rock islet, a small round islet covered with tre*w, lying nearly
2 cttbl<;s northwai-d of the north end of Cypress islaiul, has its shores

% l3

""' fck/

mmmmmm

^mmm

CHAP. IV.]

STRAWBERRY BAY. — PANAMA REEF.

123

H'-

strewed wi(.h large boulder stones. There is a passage of 9 fathoms
water between it and Cypress island ; but the ebb tide sets Avith great
strength to the southward, and, indeed, close round the western points of
the latter island.

Cypress reof, lying one-third of aiQile W. ^ S. from Rock islet, is a
dangerous rocky patch with kelp gi'owinf^ about it, covering at half flood.
James island kept, open of Tide point, the west point of Cypress island,
bearing S. ^ E., leads to the westward of the reef; and Rock islet bearing
E.S.E., or either of the Cone islands open of it, leads to the northward.

SINCLAIR ISLAND, thickly wooded, and comparatively low,
lies to tlie north-eastward of Cypress island, with a deep passage, of nearly
one mile in breadth, between them, leading to Bellingham channel. Shelving
rocks project a short distance off its western shores.

PailEma reef, ao extensive and dangerous shoal, extends nearly half
'.i mile in ;i W.N.W. direction off the north-west extreme of Sinclair island,
some parts of it uncovering at half -tide ; a large boulder stands on the inner
part of the I'eef. Great quantities of kelp grow in the neighbourhood, but
it is sometimes run under by the tide or concealed by the ripple ; there are
6 fathoms water close to the edge of the kelp. By keeping Cypress cone
open to the westward of Rock islet, or the strait between Cypress and
Blakely islands well open, a vessel will clear it in passing up and down ;
and Vcndovia island open of the north end of Sinclair island, leads clear to
the northward of it.

The PeapodS are two small rocky islets, bare of trees, lying
half a mile from the western shore of Rosario strait, and from 11 to nearly
2 miles southward from Lawrence point. They are three-quarters of a
mile apart in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, the northernmost being the
larger and higher. A little to the westward of a line drawn between tliem
is a third rock which just covers at high water. There are no dangeis
about them whicli. are not visible, and there is a passage 20 fathom.s
deep between them and Orcas island.

The eastern side of Orcas island, between the Peapod islets

and Obstruction pass, falls back in a bight, wiiero there is considerably
less tide than in the main stream of the strait, and if necessary a vessel
may drop her anchor within half a mile of the shore in about 16 fathoms
water.

Lawrence point, tiie eastern extreme of Orcas, is a long sloping
point, the termination of the ridge of mount Constitution ; immediately on
its north side it rises abruptly in high, almost perpendicular cliffs, and
trends to the westward, falling lM»ck for 3 miles in a somewhat deep bight,
which is rocky, has deep water, and is unsheltered.

124

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[CHA- . IV.

To tlie northward, Rosario strait lies between Orcas and Lummi islands,
the direct channel being along the western shore of the latter in a N.W. ^ W.
direction. Anchorage may be had, if necessary, on the eastern side of the
:,trait, within one mile of the shore in 15 fathoms, between Sandy and
Whitehorn points, northward of Lummi island.

Tides. — After passing northward of Lawrence point, the ebb tide sets
to tlie eastward between Orcas and the small islands to the northward of
it, as well as to the S.E. through the northern entrance of the strait; when
in the vicinity of Alden bank, or about 8 miles above liawrence point, the
strength of the tides sensibly decreases, and while a vessel is eastward of
a line between this bank and Roberts point, she will be entirely out of the
strong tides of the archipelago and the strait of Georgia ; it is
recommended with the ebb tide to work up on tliis shore.

LUMMI ISLAND is 8 miles long and very narrow. On its south-
western side it is high and precipitous, a remarkable double mountain
rising about 1,500 feet abruptly from the sea ; there are no dangers off its
western side ; a small high double rocky islet lies close off the shore,
3 miles from its southern point ; foul ground extends from its north-west
point in a W.N.W. direction for more than half a mile ; and at about
8 cables S.S.W. ^ W. from Carter point, its south-east point, lies Viti rock.
A reef extends 3 cables from this rock in an E, by S. direction.

Clark and Barnes islands aie two small Avooded islands, 2 miles
N.W. from Lawrence point ; two snnillcr islets, the Sisters, bare of trees,
and a high rock lie immediately S.E. of Clark island. There is a passage
1^ miles in breadth between these islands and Orcas with a depth of
45 fathoms ; there is also a narrow channel with a depth of 20 fathoms
between Clark and Barnes islands, which a vessel may take if necessary.

The tides set strong about the Sisters, and the best and most direct
channel is between Clark and Lummi islands. When taking this channel the
north point of Lummi island should not be approached within one mile, as
shoal and broken ground extends for some distance off it ; Sinclair island
kept just open westward of the north-west point of Lummi leads to tV?
westward of this foul ground in 15 fathoms water, and when the east end
of Matia island, or Puffin islet close off it, is in line wuh the north-west
point (Bill of Orcas) bearing S.W. ^ W., a vessel will be clear to the north-
ward of it.

Matia island, 3 miles W.N.W. fi-om Clark island, and one mile
eastward from Siicia island {see page 103), is one mile in length east and
west, moderately high and wooded, and has some coves on its southern
side affording shelter for boats; close off its cast point is Puffin islet, and
extending a short distance eastward of the islet is a flat rock which covers.

(

CHAP. IV.] LTJMMI ISLAND. — ALDEN BANK. — BIRCH BAY. 125

Vessels bound througli Rosario strait are recommended to pass eastward of
Maliu.

Alden bank, 3 miles in extent north and south, and one mile east
and west, lies in the centre of the northern entrance of Rosario strait ;
its southern limit is 2 miles north of Matia island, and there is a channel
3 miles in breadth between it and the eastern shore.

The depth of water on this bank varies from 2^ to 7 fathoms, the
bottom is in t^omc parts rocky, with patches of kelp growing on it ; in
other parts it is sandy, and offers a convenient anchorage for vessels
becalmed or waiting for tide. It frequently happens that a vessel having
passed to the northward between East point and Patos island, meets the
ebb tide, and is carried to the eastward ; in such a case it would be
desirable to anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms on Alden bank, and thus prevent
being set down Rosario strait.

Vessels passing up or down are recommended to pass on the eastern
side of the bank ; mount Constitution on Orcaa island kept just open east-
ward cf Puffin island, bearing S. by E. \ E., leads over the eastern edge of
the bank in 13 fathoms; and the low west jjoint of Patos island in line
with Monarch head (Saturna island), bearing S.W. ^ W., leads over the
northern edge in 7 fathoms.*

Whitehorn point is a remarkable bold bluff about 1.50 feet high
its face showing as a steep white clay cliff. It is the southern point of
Birch bay, and is 9 miles N.W. from the north point of Lummi island, and
10 miles N.E. by N. from the entrance of the strait of Georgia, between
East point and Patos island.

BIRCH BAY is between Whitehorn point and South bluff; the
hitter, which is a moderately high rounding point, forms the north entrance
point of the bay ; some large boulder stones stand a short distance ofiF it,
and should not be rounded at a less distance than half a mile. The bay
trends in a N.E. direction for 2^ miles, and is nearly 2 miles in breadth at
a distance of one mile inside the entrance points j the head of the bay dries
off a considerable distance at low water, and the 3 fathom line extends
1^ miles off shore in the centre of the bay ; it is open to winds from S.S.W.
to West. The holding ground ia good, and with 8.E. gales it affords
excellent shelter. A good berth is, in 4 fathoms, with Whitehorn point
bearing South, distant one mile ; the water shoals gradually from
14 fathoms at one mile off to 6 fathoms between the entrance points; inside
this line, 4 fathoms only will be found for a further distance of one mile
towards the head of the bay.

♦ See Views A. aud B. on AdniiruUy chart : — ilaro and Rosario straiU, No. 2,689 •
8csl«, m »0'5 inehM.

12G

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[OHAP. IT.

SEMIAHMOO BAY,* between South and North bluffs, affords
good anchorage in from G to 8 fathoms water, at about 1^ to 2 miles distance
outside Drayton harbour entrance ; a gOod berth is in 6 fathoms, mud
bottom, with South bluff bearing S. by E., and Tongue point bearing
E. by N. This is always good anchorage, unless with a heavy S.W. gale,
whpn vessels might take shelter in Drayton harbour.

Supplies. — Wild fowl frequent this anchorage in considerable numbers
during the winter months.

DRAYTON HAEBOUR, at 3^ miles N. by E. from South bluff,
is formed by a remarkable low narrow spit over one mile long, which is
the termination of the bluff itself. The spit is covered with grass
and drift timber, and a few pine trees grow on it ; several wooden
buildings were erected on it in 1858, and received the name of Semiahmoo
town. .7

Directions. — Off the outside of Tongue spit a bank extends for a
considerable distance, and vessels should not approach the spit within
three-quarters of a mile until its extreme point bears E. \ N., when it may
be steered for and passed close-to. There is only a depth of 4 fathoms at
low water, in the fairway, at from a half to three-quarters of a mile outside
the entriiuce; the channel is narrow, and no vessel uuac(]uainted with the
locality should enter before placing boats or poles oa the edges of
the shoals ; when within, it opens out into a considerable sheet of water,
but it is for the most part shoal, drying off from the main shore from a
half to one mile.

Anchorage. — The anchorage is in from 7 to 10 fathoms; it is
perfectly sheltered, and affords room for 3 or 4 large vessels, as well as
several ".mall ones, and on the inside of the spit a vessel might be beached
for repairs. The only landing at low water is at the spit end, which is
steep-to. * : ■'

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Drayton harbour at
2h. p.m. ; springs range 14 feet. ,

BOUNDARY BAY is an extensive sheet of water between the
promontory of Roberts point on the west, and North bluff on the east,
which bear S.W. ^ S. and N.E. ^ N. from each other, and are 7 miles
apart. The bay extends in a northerly direction for nearly 7 miles, and
is only separated from the south bank of Eraser river by a low delta 3 miles
across, intei-sected by streams and swamps ; it is very shallow and dries off

* See Admiralty plan of Semiahmoo bay and Drayton harbour, No. 2,637 ; scale,
w = 4 iuchcs.

CHAP. IV.] SEMIAHMOO BAT. — DRAYTON HARBOUR, &C.

127

■v

for a distance of 3 miles at low water, the edge of the bank in 3 fathoms
water, extends 4^ miles oflf the whole of the north shore of the b 'v.

Ycseels should never stand so far to the northward as to bring the white
bluff of Roberts point to bear to the southward of S.W. by W., which
line of bearing leads more than half a mile outside the shoal edge of the
bank ; the general depth of water outside this line is from 7 to 15 fathoms,
good holding ground, but this anchorage is exposed to all southerly winds,
which send in a considerable sea.

Roberts point is the termination of a remarkable promontory
which stretches southerly from the delta of the Fraser river. It presents
a broad face to the southward, and its southern extreme is a little more
than 1| miles south of the 49th parallel of latitude ; the eastern point of the
promontory is a remarkable white-faced cliff, 200 feet high, its summit
crowned with trees ; from it the land gradually falls to the westward and
terminates in Boberts spit, a low shingle point, within which is a small
space of level clear land, where a few wooden buildings were erected on
the first discovery of gold in the Fraser river, and named Roberts town ;
for n few months it served as a depdt for the miners, but it has been long
deserted.

From this spit the coast trends to the N.N.W. with bluff shores of
moderate height for 3^ miles, when it merges into the swampy delta
of the Fraser. From most points of view, and particularly from the
southward, Boberts point presents the appearance of an island; shoal
water and rocky irx'egular bottom, on which kelp grows in summer,
extends for more than one mile E.S.E. from the white face of the point,
and vessels are recommended to give it a good berth.

Boundary Mark. — There is a granite monument 25 feet high
erected on the summit of the boundary bluff, which is only just visible
from the anchorage on account of the trees; it marks the boundary
between the British and United States possessions.

' Anchorage will be found on either side of the promontory ; to the
eastward in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme of the white clifT
bearing W.S.W. distant 1^ miles, and Roberts spit, the western termina-
tion of the promontory, just shut in by the white cliff. To the westwaixJ
of the spit there is fair anchorage in 8 fathoms good holding ground,
with the spit extreme distant one mile, bearing SJB. by £ ^.£. ; a
white flag-staff at the north end of the low land of the point N.E. by
E. i E. ; and the bare bluff of the 49° parallel, or the monument on its
summit North ; here the edge of the bank will be distant one-quarter of a
mile, and a vessel should not anchor any further to the northward, as
the Roberts bank trends rapidly to the westward.

128

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[OHAI*. IV.

Directions. — A vcAsel should feel her way by the lead cautiously Into
this anchorage ; the bank is very steep outside, and shoals suddenly within ;
a signal stafT at present stands on the end of the spit.

Ships should not lie at this anchorage with strong southerly or westerly
winds, but should shiHt round to the eastern one, or to Semiahmoo bay, and
give the southern face of Roberts point a berth of 2 miles in rounding ;
neither of the anchorages at Roberts point can l^e considered as more than
stopping places, and during winter, vessels should be prepared to weigh at
short warning.

Roberts bank, formed by the alluvial deposits of the stream of
the Frpser river, extends from the spit of Roberts point in a W. by N.
direction for 9^ miles, to the Sand heads or river entrance, and at this
point is 5 miles from the shore ; it then takes a N.N.W. direction for a
farther distance of 12 miles, joining point Grey on the north, as it does
Roberts point on the south. The portion of the bank northward of the
Eraser is named the Sturgeon bank ; it is steep-to, there being depths of
from 70 to 60 fathoms at one mile from its edge, shoaling suddenly to 20,
and 2 fathoms.

STRAIT of GEORGIA.— Having passed out of Fuca strait l)y
either of the channels now described, when to the north-westward of a
line drawn between East point of Sat-irna island and Whitehorn point
(main land) a vessel may be considered well in the strait of Georgia.

General remarks. — Of the channels leading into Georgia strait,
Haro strait is the more tortuous ; the waier is so deep that it would be
impossible for a vessel to anchor in the main stream, and for its whole
length, the tides, though not stronger, are more varying in their direction.

Rosario strait leads by a very gentle curve almost a straight course; into
Georgia strait ; the depth of water, although considerable, is such that if
necessary a vessel might anchor in it ; in one part it is somewhat narrower
than the nanowest parts of Haro strait, and the tides run with equal
strength; it has its sunken rocks and dangers in an equal degree with the
Hnro, and perhaps the anchorages in point of numbers and facilities for
reaching them are equal in both : extreme care and vigilance are called for
in navigating either with a sailing vessel ; to one with steam power neither
offer any difficulties. - • /

To a vessel bound from sea, or from any of the southern ports of Van-
couver island to the strait of Georgia, the Haro channel is preferable, while
to reach the same destination from Admiralty inlet or Puget sound, Rosaiio
strait is the most direct and desirable. Having entereri, however, by either
channel, the promontory of Roberts point will be immediately seen with its
coDHpicuous white-faced cliff, appearing as an island. From the northern

-^ym

'mm^miWW^'r"

CHAP, IV.]

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

129

entmnce of Ilnro ftrnit it benrs N.N.VV. distaut U milca; and is 15 milcB
N.W. by W. from tlie Uosario strait.

The goncral direction of the strait of Oeorgift is W.N.W., and from a
position midway bi ween Suturna and Patos islands, 1!) miles on this
course sli ild take ii vessel abreast the entrance of Fraser river, the Sand
heads bei. iiig N.N.E., distant Smilua; and fortius distance the breadth
of the strait, not including the deep indentation of Boundary ^and
Setiiiahmno bays, is 10 miles. Continuing the sau>e course for a farther
distance of 19 miles, will lead between IJurranl iu'et on the east, and
Nanaiino harbour on the west, the entrance of the former bearing about
N.E. ^ E. IG milcj, .nid the latter S.W. i W. 7 miles.

The breadth of the strait, after passing the Sand heads of the Fraser
river increases to 14 miles; and between Nanaimo and Burrard inlet it is
20 miles 'road. The depth is from 70 to 100 fathoms between Huberts
point and (he southern side of the strait, and farther to the westward
between Burrard inlet and Nanaimo, it is 200 fathoms deep in the centre.

Dangers. — The dangers to be avoided in working through the strait
of Georgia are, on the northern shore, Roberts and Sturgeon banks: and on
the southern, the neighbourhood of East point, and Tumbo island, and the
coasts of Saturna and Mayne islands, until beyond the ntrance of Active
pass. A chain of reefs and rocky islets lie parallel with thia shore, in
places extending nearly one mile off; and the bottom is rocky and
irregular, with strong tides.

Extending one mile E.N.E. from the east end of Tumbo island is a
le<lge of foul, rocky ground, over whicii there arc very heavy tide rips, and
dangerous overfalls. At 7^ cables N.E. ^ N. from Race point (east point
of Tumbo island) is a rocky i)atch of o fathoms, about 400 yard^ in extent,
and at about 200 yards to the north-westward of this natch there is a rock
with only 14 feet water on it, possibly a shoal head of the 5 fathom
patch. This rock lies 7^ cables N. by E. | E. from Race point; and
W. § S., 4 miles from Toe point (Patos island). OrcasNob kept well ojien
to the eastward of the east point of Waldron island, bearing vS.S.E. \ E.,
leads in the fairway between Saturnn and Patos islands, 1^ miles eastward
of the rock ; and Toe point (Patos island), in line with the north extreme
of Sucia island, bearing E. ^ S., leads nearly three-quarters of a mile to
the northward of it.*

Caution. — As before observed (page ."Jl) vessels should when possible
pass midway between Saturna and Patos islands, they should on no account
give the East point of Tumbo island a berth of loss than 1 A miles, and are
recommended not to approach the northern shores of the islands lying

• See View on chart No. 2840.

A 17496.

130

ROSARTO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[onAP. XV.

between Ilaro strnit and Actlvo pass, within a diatanco of 2 miles ; and
they are strongly urged to adhere strictly to this atlvice.

The light on Goorgina point, at the entrance to Active pass, becomes
obscured when bearing to the westward of W. ^ S. ; and it shoidd be borne
in mind that during the night while this light is in sight all the dangeraofl"
the northern shores of the above islands will be avoided.

It should also be remembered that the ebb sets to the S.W., through
Active pass, and that tide races occur in its northern entrance. Roberts
bank is easily avoided. The extreme of Roberts spit, or the tangent
of the high trees immediately within it, should not be brought to liear
to the southward of East, or E. ^ S. ; this latter will lead half a mile
outside the edge of the bank. If the weather is thick, when 50 fathoms
is struck, a vessel will be getting very near the edge. The entrance to
the Fraser river bears N.E. ^ E., distant 12 miles, from the north entrance
of Fortier pass.

The Tides, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro archi-
pelago, yet run with considerable strength (.'} knots), particularly during
the freshets of summer, when the Fraser river discharges an immense
volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks,
almost straight for the entrance to Active pass. This peculiar milky-colonred
water is frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometiraea
seen in the inner channels along the shores of Vancouver island ; at
other times it i-eachos the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable
and most striking contrast with the do(;p blue waters of the strait of
Georgia.

Below the mouth of the Fraser, the tide is rather the stronger on the
southern shore. On the northern side, within the line between Robei'tsand
Sandy points, scarcely any tide is felt ; and vessels will gain by working up
on that shore with the ebb, where good anchorage can also be found, if
necessaiy.

Allowance must be made for the tides ; this is not difficult when after
having once entered the strait of Georgia by daylight, and noted wlsich tide
was running. In the centre of the strait above Saturna and Patos islands,
the strength of the tide varies from one to 3 knots, seldom more, unless
close to the island shores, which are swept by the rapid currents out of
Gabriola, Portiev, and Active passe *. Above the mouth of the Fraser there
is still less stream and plenty of sea room, the breadth of the strait being
nwarly 1 5 miles.

FRASHIl RIVER,* in point of magnitude and present commercial
importance, is second only to the Columbia on the north-west coast

♦ See Admiralty chart: — Fraser river and Burrard inlet No. 1,922; icale, »»■■ 1 inch,

CHAV. IV.]

FRASER RIVER.

131

of America. In its entire froodom from risk of life nnd aliipwrook, it
poHsossos infinite advftntngos over any other river on the coast, and
the- cauHo of thi.s immunity from tl>c dangcirfl ami inconvenionces to
whicli all great rivers disomhogiUMng on an exposed coast are subject,
is sufflciently obvious. A sheltered strait, scarcely 15 miles across,
receives its waters ; and the neighbouring island of Vancouver serves as
a natural breakwater, preventinpf the possibility of any sea arising which
would prove dangerous to vessels even of the smallest class, unless they
ground.

The river, with its numerous tributaries, has its rise in the Rocky
mountains, between 4(X) and 500 miles from the coast in a northerly
direction, whence it forces its way in torrents and rapids, through one
of the many great parallel valleys which intersect this region, confined by
gigantic mountains, with largo tracts of country, rich in agricultural
resources on either side of them, until it reaches tlu; town of Hope, which
is about 80 miles by the windings of the river, in an easterly direction from
its entrance.

Above the city of Lytton, which stands at the fork or confluence
of the Fraser and Thompson rivers, 55 miles above Hope, many
rich deltas occur, or as they are termed by the miners, bars, and among
these known as the wet diggings, gold was first discovered in British
Columbia.

At Hope, the river assumes the character of a navigable stream ;
steamers of light draught reach this point and even the town of Yale,
15 miles above it, during from six to nine months of the year. In June,
Jtdy, and August, the melting of the snow causes so rapid a downward
stream that vessels even of high steam power aic rarely able to stem it,
and during these months numbers of large trees an^ brought down from
the flooded banks, which offer another serious obstruction to navigation.
Between Hope and Langloy, the latter 30 miles from the river's mouth,
there is always a considerable strength of current, from 4 to 7 knots, nfc
times more ; but at Langley the river hecomes a broad, deep, and placid
stream, and except during the three summer months the influence of the
flood stream is generally felt, and vessels of any draught may con-
veniently anchor. The depth is 10 fathoms j the current not above
3 knots.

Midway between Langley and Hope the Harrison river falls into the
Fraser, and by it and a long chain of lakes extending in a general
N.W. direction a comparatively easy route has been established, by which
the upper Eraser is reached at a point just below the Bridge river, in the
heart of the gold regions, thus avoiding that difllicult and at present
almost impassable part of the country between the town of Yale and the

I 2

132

ROSARIO AND GEOllGXA STRAITS.

[chap. IV.

Fonntftin;^, by the ninin rivor a distnnco of about 90 milos.* Considerable
attention has l)Pon attracted of late to the sulphur (hot) springs of
Harrison river-t

Vessels of 14 feet draught may enter the Fraser near hifih water, and
proceed nshigh as Lan<;ley with ease, provided they have or are assisted by
steam ]>ower. and are acquainted with the existing deep water channel, which,
it should be remembered, is subject to change. The only difficulty is between
the Sand heads and Garry poi)it, the entrance proper uf the river, but while
there are competent pilots and the buoys remain in their positions, this
difliculty disappears. It nuist bo remembered, however, that the tides of
tlie strait of Georgia sweep across the channel of the entrance, and a large
ship is recommended to enter or leave with the lust (juarter of the floo<l.

The great quantity of deposit brought down by the freshets of summer
ha.s created an extensive seriea of banks, wh'ch extend 5 miles outside the
entrance proper of the rivei". The main stream has foreed a somcfwhat
narrow channel, in which there is a sharp bend, through these banks,
and at its junction with the current of the strait of Georgia, wliich
runs at right angles to it, has caused the wall-cdgt'd bank before alluded
to, extending to Roberts point on the south and Gn-y j)oint on the
north.

The river is at its lowest stage during the months of January, February,
and March. In April it commences to rise from the melting of the snows,
and is perhaps 9. jeet above its lowest level ; the flood stream is strong
enough to swing a ship at New Westminster up to the end of this month.
In May the water rit-cs ra[)idly, the river is at its highest about the end of
June, and remains up witli trifling fluctuations until the end of July or
middle of August. During those six weeks the banks are overflowed, and
extensive plains above Laiigley covei-ed for a space of several miles; the
strength of the stream between Langley and Hope being from 1 to 7 knots,
and in the narrow parts even more. The usual rise of the river at Langley
due to these floods is about 11 feet, but it has been known to reach
26 feet.

From the middle to the end of August the waters I'egin to subside, and
in September the stream is not inconveniently strong. September,
October, and November me favourable months for the river luivigation, as
the water is then sufhciciitly high to reach Hop<', and the strength of the
current cou> i<lerably nbateil. The shallow slern-whee! steamers have got
to Hope as lat«3 as December ; between this month and April, owing to

* The Graiul Trunk wagfron road from Vale to the centre of the mining district of
Cariboo, a total leiigtii of 375 itiileH, ami which wan coiupletod in 1866, has removed
the great ditKcultieN which were formerly cncounterc<l ou thJH route.

t The temperatuie is 164",

OIIAI'. IV.]

FSASER ItlTEB.

3 33

the shoalaess of tho water and the great quantity of ice formed, rnvij^a-
tiou, even by these vessels only drawing 18 inches, is attended with grttat
difficulty, and rarely practicable &t all. Tl»e snags or drift trees which
become imbedded in the river also form <i serious obstacle to navigation at
this season.

In April the steamers commence again to run; in June, July, and
August the rapidity of the current is tho great obstacle, but these high-
pressure vessels, commandiog a spe.d of 11 and 12 knots, freiiucutly
accomplish the voyage, thougii at Oi." -Ij risk. Thi- Harrison river route
(page i.'U) obviates some, but not ail of these difficulties.

Tides. — At New Westminster the freshets raise the h^vn! of tln^ river
about G fi'of, but the banks being high no inconvenience is felt, an<l the
strength of the stream is rarely 5 knots, during the winter from 2 to 3 ; for
Home miles within the entrance tho low l>anks are parliail} aoo«i<Hi lur a
month or six weeks. The rise an<l fall due to tidal causes is from 8 to 10
feet at springs, between the Sand heads and the entrance of tlii' river
proper at Garry point ; at New Westminster it is 6 feet, and at Langley
scarcely |M>rceptible.

LIGHT. — From an iron pile lighthous*' situate<l on the North SjuuI
hea<l, at th(> entmnce to Frascr river, is exhibited, at an elevation of
52 feet above high water, a Jixfd white light, which should l>e visible in
clear weather from a distance of 12 miles.

Fog bell. — During thick or foggy weather a lell will be sounded from
the lighthousf;.

Tid«3S. — It is high water at full and change at Frascr river entrance at
6h. 30m., springs rise 7 to 10 feet.*

Directions. — The lighthouse on tho North Sand head enables a
vessel to pick up tho narrow entrance between the Sand heails with
accura«'y. A large black buoy is placed oft' tho outer edge of the North
Sand bead, and thi' edge of the channel insiih? is marked by buoyit, colouretl
red on the starboard hand (.south bank), and black on the port i:Hnd (north
bank), they are also numbered consecutively j the Sand heiul buoy can be
seen well from a distance of 2 miles.

Coming fronj the northward, Pas.><age island, at the entrance of Howe
sound, kept in UnCf or just open eastward of a rcuiarkaljic jxak on A>ivil
island within llie sound, Iwaring N. by W. | W,, leails \^ miles cli-ar
of the e«lge of tho Sturgeon bank, and about the some distance westward
of the lighthouse.

* High water at full uml chan^i; at the lighthouse on the Xurth Saud hoail ut
4h. 30ui., cxtifiuo rigf l.'i fi-tf. — Mr. John Dcvcroux, 18c.5.

131

aOSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap, IV.

The clmniii!! ovor tl»o sandH at the mouth of the Frnser (in 1876-7)
coutiiuuHl to ■'(lour to tho northward, and was moro tortuous than formerly ;
it would be daujicroiis to attempt to talte a vessel to or from New
Wustmiuster with a greater draught than 14 feet.

The South fSand head dries at low water, and has frequently a ripple on
it when covered; it is marked hy n red buoy. The lejist depth in tlio old
(south) channel is .t feet at low water ; as, however, tho channel shifts from
tinif to time, the services of a local pilot are absolutely necessary. Ap-
proaching the entrance, the buoy moored off tho North Sand head should
1)0 brought to bear N.N.E., tmd then steer to leavo it about one or \\
cable's length on the port side, which will lead nearly in mid-channel, tho
buoys then on the port or north side of tiie channel should be kept from
half a cable to one cable on the port hand.

There is always a groat <iuantity of drift wo'mI on Garry point, and the
northern side of the river should be kept aboard tor nearly 2 miles, where
from 8 to 10 fathoms water will be found ; it is then necessary to cross to fhe
sou'h side, and to keep close along it, passing the mouth of the South or
Ik)at channel, an<l roiuiding the buoy on the south edge of Sparrowhawk
shoal, nearly 2 miles above which, and abna»t a eUimp of high trees, cross
again to tho north bank to the westward of two low sandy isIundB ; the
channel then leads rather along the north «ide of the river, and with the
assistance of the chart will be found sufHciently ejisy for veaHels of 14 teet
draught until (\ or 7 miles above Langley.

New channel. — I" l^^-l » new channel through the sands at the
mouth of the river had iornu'd with a depth of 8 feet at low water,
summer spring tides. This channel (to th*- northward of the old one)
is marked with black spar buoys numbered eonHecutivoly irom one to 9.

Directions. — Vessels making for the new channel should, to clear
the Sand heads, keep on the leadinir marks of Howe sound until Garry
bush (Leading tree)* bears N.p]. by E., when it should b-' steered for:
leave the black buoys one quarter of a cable on the j>ort hand, and after
})n8sing No, f) buoy, steer for No. lo (fairway buoy), which may bo passed
on either hand, and thence to Garry point. The Sand heads lighthouse
bears S.E. \ S. from No. 1 buoy, distant X^^^ miles,

NEW WESTMINSTER stands on the north or right bank
of the Fra.ser rivi.'r, just alK)ve the junction of the North Fork, an<l
1.') miles in a general nortb-eiuste'V <Iirection from tho entrance proper.
It occupies a commanding an<l well chosen position, being within an easy
distance of the entrance, and having great facilities for wharfage along its
water frontage, a good depth of water, and excellent anchonige,

• A remarkable iMolatcd tree sittiutid 4.30 yards N.W. by N from Uurry poinf, but
it hii'« been reported to haw bcvn cut down.

CHAP. !▼,]

FllASER RIVER.

135

The rirer bank ia somewhat precipitous in places, and the country iit
the back is like all the lower parts of the Fra»er (unloes, indeetl, in
the immcdiat«> neighbourhood of the entrance, whore it is swampy gn«8
liind, subject io inundation durinj; the froshefj* of summer), (Iciisoly
wooded ; a considcrnblo clearing, however, of the timber has taken [tliioe
in the vicinity of the town, which now us3umea a prominent arid thiiving
iv«i)eot, and when the facilities for entering the river and its cnpaliilities
are better known, will no doul)t rise move rapidly into importance. It
has several piildic buildings of note including a very good hospital, and
large canneries whicii put up some 70,(KX) oases of salmon each season.*

The site of tlu; former military estutjlishment, one mile above New
Westminster, is a most picturesque spot, comman<ling an uninterrupted view
of thi' Queen's reach, a broad, deep, and magnificent sheet of water. From
it to pert Moody (at the hewl of Hurrard inlet, and a station of the
Canadian Pacific IJaihvay) the distam.-e is 4 miles in a north direction ;
several good roads exist between the two places, and a branch railway
lino has beei' constructed between port M(KMly and New Westminster ;
also a waggon roatl to the outer (Vancouver) harbour of the inlet. 'I'he
population of Niw Westini'istor in 1881 was aliout 3,000.

Supplies ol all descnptions are r>adily obtained, and salmon in abun-
danec in the sea? o:i. There are not many facilities for rejiairs to shipping
and machinery.

Coal can i>e obtained at a price of ,<!6 per ton. About 500 tons
are usually kept in stock, but any quantity can lie procured at a short
notice. Vessels can coal froM barges, or they can go alongside ii wharf,
which extends into a depth c;' 20 feet at low water.

Trade. — The principal exports are lumber and lish, the value of which
in IHHf) was iHi'2l,'>7~t, and tlie value of the imports, consisting of general
merchandise, amounted to f(<')'M,'^4.

'I'lu! number of vessels that visited the port was 349, of an aggregate
tonnage of 144,037 tons.

Pitt river. — At 5 miles eastward of New Westminster is the en-
trance to the I'itt river, which trends in a general direction from N.N E. to
N.E. for 28 miles, terminati»;i' in two remarkable lakes enclosed between
almost iM'rpeiidieular ino':.iiain.«, and navigable to the head for vessels of
14 feel, draught, the ilepth in places lieing far too great for anchoragi?. A
large tract of low grass land lies on both sides of the entrance of the Pitt,
which, however, is generally overflowed, or partially so, during (J weeks
of summei',

Derby or New Lanpley.— 'I'Ik> lan<ling place at fort Langley,
is 12 mill's al»ove ISjtw Westminster iu an easterly direction, on lli- souih

* 8|irinK tidet >ii« f> feet.

HMI

136

ROSARIO AND GEOEGIA STRAITS.

[OUAF. IT,

or opposite side of the river ; the channel between is deep, and there
are no irnpodiiuents to nnvi<jation. Thi.H spot was first selected aa the
wipital, and lus a town site it is unobjectionable, having a considerable
tract of good cleared land in its neighbourhood, and all the reciuiremonts
of n commercial port ; the depth of water hero is 10 fathoms. Large
vessel may proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Laiigley ; the navigation
then becomes somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any vessels
but steamers of light uiiught and great power.

The North, Fork is another entrance to the Fraser, navigable
for vessels drawing (J or 8 feet water, and is generally used by the natives
proceeding to or from Burrard inlet. Its junction with the main stream
occurs immediately below New Westminster, from whence it runs in a
westerly direction, and enters the strait of Georgia through the Sturgeon
Itank, about 5 miles northward of the Sand heads ; a large low partially
wooded island (Lulu island) lies in its entrance, and splits the ci\annel into
two arms.

In many parts of tho North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the
bottom irregular ; it can only be considered a boat channel.

BURRARD INLET* is the fust great harbour which indents the
shores of IJritish Columbia north of the 49th parallel. Its en' ranee, which
is between (irey point on the south, and Atkinson point on th ". north, is 14
miles N.N.W. from the Sand heads of FrastT river, 21 miles N. by K. \ E.
from Tortier pass, and 22^ miles N.E. ^ E. from Entrance island of
XanaMao. Howe sound ininuMliately adjoins it on the north, Atkinson
[)oint, the northern entrance point of the inlet, being the eastern limit of
the sound.

The entrance to the inlet is well marked ; Grey point, a long wooded
promontory terminating in a rounded bluff, is very conspicuous from the
*;outhward, while Bowen island, which lies at the entrance of Howe
sound, and may also be saitl to form the northern boundary of the iidt-t,
irt very ri'iiiarkable ; its liigh, round, and almost bare summit, mount
(Jardner, reaching an elevation of 2,479 feet, is easily recognized from
unv point of view. I'assage island, small, but prominent, lies in the
eastern passage of Howe souiul, midway between Bowen island and
Atkinson ptnnt, and is an r:xcellent mark from the southward; as Injfore
observed (page i;}3), Anvil peak, in line with or just open wstward of this
islniid bearing' N. by W. 'J W., leads 1^ miles clear the of edge of the Sturgec^
bank, and at night tho light on Atkinson point should not be brouglit to
bear westward of North.

Burrard inlet diTers from most of the great sounds of this coast in
being comparatively easy of access to sli'am vessels of any si/e or class,

• .SVc ArttTiiralty chart; — Hurrard inlet Ko. 922 ; scaloiW— 8 inche*.

OnAF, IV.]

BURRAllD INLET.

137

nud. in the convenient depth of wiiter for anchorage whicii may be fomui
in almost every part of it ; its close proximity to Eraser river, with
the great facilities for constructing roads between the two places, and
its having become the terminus of the Pacific and Canadian Railway,
likewise add considerably to its importance. It is divu'ed into three
distinct harbours, viz., English bay or the outer anchorage ; Vancouver
(formerly called Coal harl)our), above the Firet narrows; and port Moody
at the head of the caRtern arm of the inlet.

There is communication by steamer daily and bi-weekly with provincial
ports ; weekly with San 1 .ancisco, and bi-weekly with ports in Puget
Hound ; and by railway to all jiarts of Kastern Canada, and throughout the
United Statet«. There is also telegraphic communication, with main points
throughout the province, with the United States, and with Europe.

An electric submarine cable extends from point Grey across the strait
of Georgia to Valdes island.

LIGHT. — From a s<niaro wooden lighthouse situated on Atkinson
point, the; north point of entrance to Burrard inlet, i;. exhibite<l, at an
elevation of 119 feet above the sea, a rcfo/rin^r white light, attaining its
greatest brilliancy evert/ minute, which should be visible in clear weather
from a distance of 14 miles.

EiNGLISH BAY is more than 3 miles in breadth at the entrance
iMJtween (irey and Atkinson points, which bear from tnich other N.N.W.
and S.S.E., and carries the same breadth for nearly its entire length or
almost 4 miles.

Sp&Ilisll b&nk, which extends in a .lortherly direction from Grey
point for three-quarters of a miir», and then curves easterly, joining the
south shore of the inlet at the distance of 2miU'it within tho point, contracts
the entrance in some measure, however. This bank is composed of hard
sand, aiiil is dry at low water ; it!« e<lge is steep-to, having off it from
20 to 7 t'athoni!' and then on shore ; wbon eovere<l its existence would
not be suspected ; there is no ripple on it unless with strong westerly
winds, and then only near U)w water. 'A red can buoy is moored off its
north r'diie in 7 fathoms. A red cnn buoy, surmounted by a staff and cage,
is moored in 10 raihoms, westwHnl of the bai\k.*

The head of English bay on the south shore terminates in a shoal arm,
namtKl False creek ; on tiie north shore it leads by the First narrows to
Uurrord tsUet. The groat volume of wat«*r which discharges itself
frt>n> tht Mpjwr parts of the iidet tiirough these narrows has scoured out a
de«p channel on the north side of the outer anchorage, and from lu to
.'U) fwthoms will be found norfhwanl of a line drawn westerly through the
centre of fWe bay.

Anchora^. — There is good anchorage in Knglish bay in (5 fallioms,
stiff iiiml !>ottoni, at about halt a mile from rhe south ^horc of the bay (oft"
Iihlia: bill.* ),wi lb the extreme of Coal poiiins:ula(a conspicuous perpendieuliir

* IVoiu the buoy dM bluli >u dii- •utrttucc to thi' First uarrows bears N.E. j E., auj
Atkinson Ui^aiMWe N.N.W., 4iatunt 2^^ milvH.

138

EOSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap IV.

cliffy bluff forming the point of First narrows) licnring N. by E. ^ E., and
lighthouse on point Atkinson bearing W. by N. j N. ; this nnchorago is
well protected from westerly winds by the Spanish bank, and is also out of
the influence of the current. Anchorage may also bo hiul farther to the east-
ward, if desired ; a remarkable high Nine pin rock stands close off the
west end of Coal peninsula, and irhen this rock is just shut in by the jwint,
bearing N. by W. ^ W., a vessel will be far enough in.

Tides. — In English bay during the winter months from September to
!Mareli there is what is locally called a "short run out" during the day,
and a •' long run out " at night. The tide is consequently high during the
day, and low at night, Tlic duration of tho short run out is from 3 to
4 hours, that of the long 7 to hours. Tiiis is entirely reversed during
the summer months, when it is high wcter during the night, and low water
during the day. The tides are very complicated, and cannot bo depended
on, except at full and change of tho moon.*

DirOCtionS. — Entering Buriard inlet from tho southward, Grey
point should not be approached within one nile, when tho extreme of
the bluft' bears S.E. ]^ S., and the north end of Cou! peninsula (which is a
conspicuous perpendicular clifly blutl forming the point of the First
narrows) is N.E. by E., steer in E.N.E., which will lead half a mile cleai-
of the Spanish bank ; a goo<l look-out being kept for the buoy.

Vessels intending to pass above the narrows must Jittend to the tides,
and a stranger will do well to anchor in English bay before proceeding
further up.

The First narrows li>^ iK'tween the bluff of Coal peninsula and
the north side of the inlet, where the breadth of the channel is not more
than 1^ cables with a depth of from 10 to 12 fathoms; .o a stranger the
entrance is not easily made out until close in.f A flat composed of
shingle and boulder stones, covering with the early flood, extends from one
to ti cables' lengths oH' the north shore, so that the peninsula bhifl must
be kept pretty close aboard, rather lees than one cable. From the entrance
of the iiarrows, when abreast peninsula l)lufT, steer for Brockton point for
about three-quarters of a mile, or halt' the distance between the two, and
then giadunlly alter course to pass Brockton point at the distance of about
l^ cables, when an E. by N. course will lead to the Second narrows. To
a sailing sliip a knowledge of the locality is necessary, as well as a coin-
numding breeze, and the narrows should never be attempted with the full
strength of the stream ; and vessels must l)e quick and careful with tho
helm. Even for a stcHmer, the strength of the current in tho First narrows,
necessitates unusual care.

The narrow part of the chnnml .s half a mile in length, when it
grsidually opens out from 2 cables to half a mile, which is the breadth

* Mavigutin^ Lieut. Thoinpitoii Mnck-un, U.N., II. M.S. Pelican, lUSti.
+ F. Townsend, Master, ll.M.S. Seoul, 1866.

ciur. IV.]

BURRARD INLET.

139

abroivst of Brockton point, 1^ miles within the peninsula blufl" on th«
south shore. When past the imrrowest part, tho south shore .sitould
be kept liboard within 2 cables until abreast Brockton point.

TidOS. — The strengtii of the title in tho iiarrowoHt part of the First
narrows is from 4 to 8 knots. It is high water, full and change, at G p.rn. ;
and the rise is 13 feet. The ebb stream commences directly it is high
water by tho shore, and runs out for two hours after it is \o\v ; there is
consequently only 4 hours' flood stnuiiu.

Burnaby shoal, about 2 cables in extent, marked by kelp, with
9 feet water on it, lies 3^ cables E. ^ N, from Brockton point, the kelp,
however, is frequently not seen until closo upon it. The houses northward
of Brockton point open north of tl*. t point, load north of Burnaby shoal,
and the pier at Vancouver, bearing .S. by E. ^ E., clears it to the eastwaid.
A red buoy is moored on this shoal,

Vancouver harbour, tho f'fst anchorage inside tho First narrows, is
a bight formed by the land falling back from Brockton point. At the western
side side of the harbour is the Burnaby shoal, and midway between Van-
couver town and Hastings mill the Whiting bank extends 1| cables from
the shore, with 2^ fathoms on its outer edge.

Vancouver, a rapidly increasing town which had in 1887 about 3,500
inhabitants, is situated on the east side of Vancouver ha;bour ; it is the
terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and trains leave daily for
Montreal {see page 8). It is in telegra|)liic communication with Vancouver
island and JMtmtrcal. There are excellent fariliiiea for iMniching vessels.
A small steam vessel plies between this to^r and Moodyvillc saw-mills on
the northern side of Burrard inlet. There is an establishnient for herring
curing here.

A nier has been constructed half a cjvble eastward of Buckland point.
The depth alongside it at low water is 21 feet.

Vancouver is the centre of the great lumber district which produces tho
supply for Hastings mill.

At Hastings saw-mill, on the east entrance point of Vancouver harbour,
several piers have been constrnctcd for the convenience of vessels loading
lumber; there is a depth of 2.') feet alongside the largest of these piers.

Trade. — The t-xports from Burrard inlet consist of luird)er, hides, and
fish oil. The exportation of lund)er for 188G was 1G,67J>,S)01 feet, valued
at S20ii,'i'M. Thiny-two ships were emi)loyed in (his service, the aggregate
tonnage of which wtis 2(5,302 tons.

The numbei' of foreign vessels thnt enter the port (exclusive of trading
steamers and small craft), is estimated at 51, representing a tonnage of
39,8.')2 tons in the aggregate.

Large (pianlities of timber are exported to Sandwich islands, Au-<fralia,
China, and San Francisco ; vessels of l,5tX) tons go R.ongside the piers
to load.*

* Thori' in regular (itcuiu cctminui'.iciition between Vancouver town aiiil .Tupan,
(-'liinu, Suiulwicli iniaii(i^, New Zi-aland, Au^trnlia, Sau Franci>e(i, and pDrls in I'u^a't
souiirt in connection with flu- Canadian I'acifie Uailway ; and mails for AuHlralia,
I'hina, and .Jupuii are convened hy lliis route. The steauiers from China coal nt
Vaui'ouver from u hulk ; they call at Esquimalt en route.

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[OUA.F. ir.

Moodyville. — At Moodyville, on the north shore, there is a steam
snw-iuill, also a griu'^on 180 feet long ami 40 foet wide, capable at spring
tides of taking a ve.^sel drawing 12 feet ; alongside it is a small wharf.
Moodyvillo contained in 1884 about 250 inhabitants, principally omployua
of the saw-mills. Two steam ferry boats ply between this place and the
several other settlements in Burrard inlet.

Hastings, » small village situated on the south side of the inlet, is
3 milo.', from Vancouver, and is connected with New Westminster by
a stage road 9 miles long. It is much frequented during the summer
months.

AllOhoragO. — The best anchorage in Vancouver harbour is in the
south-east corner in from 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, with the north extreme
of the piers at Hastings mill bearing E, by N., and the landing stage at
Vancouver town (a long floating stage) bearing South. This position is
out of the influence of the strong tidal streams.

Supplies. — Wood for steaming purpostjs can be abundantly procured,
find also ordinarj supplies : wator is of bad quality.

Coal is obtained from Nanaimo, from which port it can be shipped at
the rate of one dollar per ton. A small quantity can be procured from
the retail dealers ; price ;^8 per ton.

A pow<.'rful stt'am ti.g is available for towing vessels between Juan do
Fuca strait and Burrard inlet.

Directions. — From a berth of about 1 J cables off Brockton point steer
E. i N. keeping the houses north-west of Brockton point open north of that
point until the pier at Vancouver town bears S. by E. J E., when Burnaby
shoal will be passed and the anchorage may be steered for.

Second narrows. — Between the First and Second narrows, u
distance of 4^ miles, Burrard inlet trends E. ^ N., varying in breadth
from one-half to 1^ miles. In the centre the depth is 36 fathoms, shoaling
grudiuilly towards either shore; but Vancouver harbour, or near the south
shore, offers the best anchorage.

The Second narrows are similar to the First ; a bank of the same des-
cription, but more extensive, is caused by the deposit brought down from
the high mountains by the numerous streams which flow into the inlet
on the north side. This bank is dry at low water, and the breadth of the
deep elinnnel, at the narrowest part and for half a mile on either side of it,
varies from Ij to 2 cables, with a depth of from 10 to 20 fathoms. The

CHAP, nr.]

BUERARD INLET.

channel, however, is straight, and the tides which nm from 3 to 7 knots
set fairly through it. The only directions necessary are to keep the south
shore close aboard, and steer from point to point without going far into
the bights which indent the coast on either side of the narrowest part.
The great strength of the tide ceases when half a mile from the narrowest
part of either narrows.* i

PORT MOODIT. — The entrance to this snug harbour is 4< miles
eastward from the Second narrows, at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet.
It is 3 miles in length, and varies in breadth from one-third to half a mile,
except at its entrance, whore it is only 2 cables across ; there are no dangers
and there is a uniform depth of water, with good holding ground. The
port takes a N.E. by E. -J E. direction for nearly two miles, and then
E. by S. for one mile, terminating in a muddy flat at its head, which
reaches within 3 miles of the banks of Pitt river, and about 4 miles from
the site of the military camp at New Westminster, on the Eraser. Port
Moody was at first chosen as the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Kailway,
but it has since been decided to make Vancouver the t^rminuH. The line
is now open for traffic. Wharfage accommodation for vessels of large
tonnage is also provided, the depth alongside which is 30 feet at low
water.t A considerable settlement is being formed on the south shore at
the head of the bay, which in 1884 contained about 250 inbabitiviits.

AnchorEge. — The best anchorage is in the widest part of the harbour
just before reaching the arm which turns E. by S., in from 5 to 6 fathoms,
at about half a mile from the trail which loads to New Westminster.
AbreAst the turning point, and on the north shore, a bank dries off for
nearly 2 cables at low water, on which good oysters are found.

North. Erm, j"st before reaching port Moody, and 3 miles above
the Second narrows, branches off from the main inlet, and takes a
general northerly direction for 11 miles. Tt is entirely different in its
character from other portions of the inlet. The depth of water varies
from 50 to 110 fathoms, and it is enclosed on both sides by rugged
mountains rising from 2,000 to 5,000 feet almost perpendicularly, and
down the steep sides of which the melting snow in summer forces its
way in foaming cascades, rendering the surface water in the inlet below
nearly fresh.

There is scarcely sufficient level land in this arm to pitch a tent, nor
is there any anchorage except in Bedwell bay, a narrow creek 2 miles

* A subiiiarine telegraph cable crosses tb*" Second narrows in the narrowest part,
marked by three wooden painted posts placed on the mud flat j and the outer of these
being on the southern edge of the flat is a good guide for th« deep wattr ohaoucl. — Captain
H. Rose, R.N., H.M.S. rWu/KpA, August 1886.

f The sea worm (Teredo navalis) is very destructive here.

142

rosa-Hio and geohoia straits.

[chap. it.

within llio cntrRnce, on the eftstorn shore, wlioro 7 to 9 fnthomH nro found
nenr its hoa<l. North arm is nearly one mile wide at tho ontranco,
but one uiilowithin, it is contracted to a little over 2 cables, when it shortly
opens out again, and maintains an average breadth of two-thirdM of a mile
as far aa Croker island. There is a sottlement on North arm named
Richmond with a population of about 2.50, and there are two salmon can-
neries there.

Croker island is one milo from tho head of the arm, and on both
sides of it there are deep but narrow chunnels ; that to the eastwanl is
the widest. The head torminatcs in a delta of swampy ru.sheH, through
which some rapid streams find their way into tho inlet from a deep and
narrow gorge in a N.N.VV. direction.

W^ator. — During the winter months fresh water is to be obtained in
all parts of litirrard inlet, and probably the whole year round there would
be no scarcity ; in June there is abundance at the creek in English bay,
off which is the anchorage. " . • •

In Port Moody there is a fine streom close to the oyster bank.

SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.*

OABRIOLA REEFS, 'i dangerous cluster of rwks, covering a
spoce of nearly 1^ niiloH, some of which cover at half flooil, and others
having only a few feet water over them, lie 2 m'les ofl' the eastern point of
Gabriola island, 8 miles }>elow the entrance of Nanairao harbour. The
outer extreme of tho reef lies 8 miles N.W. |^ N. from the north point of
Portier pass, and l\ miles E. \ N. from the easternmost of the Flattop
islands (a group of low wooded islets lying close off the east end of
Gabriola island). There is a passage inside the reefs, but it is not recom-
mended. When the nortii extreme of the northernmost Flattop island beare
S.W. by W., a vessel will be one mile to tho northward of tho reef's,
Nanooso or Notch hill just open of Berry point (the north-east point
of Gabriola island), bearing W. ^ S., also leads one milo to the northward
of them. t

A beacon 26 feet high, surmounted by a cage 8 feet in diameter, stands
on the largest ledge, which covers at 6 feet rise of tide.J

Thrasher rock. — At nearly 6 cables N. U)° E. from tho above
beacon, and about 2 cables' lengths seaward from the end of the Gabriola

* 5ee Admiralty chart: — Strait of Georgia, Sheet 1, No. 579 ; scale, m— 0-5 of an
inch.

f See View on Admiralty chart : — Strait of Georgia, Sheet 1, No. 579 ; (icale m=0-5
inch.

J Mr. John Devereux reports, the beacon has been carried away and probably will
not be replaced.

OHAP. !▼.]

GABRIOLA REEF8. — ENTRANOK ISLAND.

113

reefs, is a dotachod rock which drien 1^ r*>ot nt low wntcr nprin^ tidea, in
the kelp which marks tho n«>i^hboiirhood. There is 1 1 fathoiiiH within one
cable's length of tho rock on its seaward side, and between it and the
Qabriola reefs there appeared to bo a depth of about o fathoms over a rcMky
bottom.

Berry point bearing W. ^ S. (well open of Flattop point), leads about
one mile northward of Gabriola reefs an<l Thrasher rock. The entrnnoe
points of Portior pass just touching on a S.S.E. ^ p]. hearing, lead mure
than 1 j^ miles eastward of the reefs.

Buoy. — A black conical iron buoy, marked with the letters G Rfs. in
white, is moorinl iu 11^ fathomH, one cable N.E. from Thrasher rock.

Caution. — Westward of Flattop island the shore of Gabriola is bold
until near lierry point and Kiitrancc island, when it nhoiild nut be
approached within a lung half mile ; foul ground extends fur some distance
eastward from the point of the island.

ENTRANCE ISLAND H^s half a mile N.N.E., from IJciTy point,
the north-east extreme of (gabriola island. It is rocky, .SO feet high,
formed of sandstone, bai'o of trees, but has some vegetation on it. Vessels
passing up the strait bound fur Nanaimo should round this island ; there is
a deep pnsstige belweuu it and Berry point named Furwood channel, a little
more than 2 cables in breadth, which f.teami-rs or snmll craft may use; but
tho south and west sides of Kntrance island must be avoided, as reefs and
broken ground extend 2 cables' lengths off them.

LIGHT. — From a square, white, lighthouse situated on Entrance
island, is exhibited, at 0.5 feet above higli water, n^/t'jrd white light, which
should be seen in clear weather frum a distance of 14 miles.

Having rounded Entrance island at the distance of half a mih* or more If
convenient, the entrance of Nanaimo harbour will Ik* distant r> miles.
There are three channels leading to the harbour, viz,, P^iirway, Middle,
and Inner. Fairway channel is the most convenient for vessels bound
to Nanaimo from the southward or eastward ; but Middle channel is
certainly the safest and most desirable for vessels from the northward.

Fa IRWAY channel, between the shon) of (Jubrioln and
Lighthouse island, is tho most direct for vessels entering from the .south-
ward or eastward.

Lighthouse island «" a smooth-topped grassy sandstone island,
3 cables in extent north and south, about 39 feet high, 3 miles W. by .S. ^ S.
from Entrance island. A ledge of rocks, 4 cables long in a north and south
direction, lies to the eastward of Lighthouse island ; with the north »'nil
2\ cables E.N.E. from the south iM)int of this island, aiul the south end
4^ cables S.E. by E. from the same point ; the least depth on this ledtrc is

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(716) 872-^503

rii

ROSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap. IV.

7 feet on its northern edge, and 21 feet on its southern. The ledge is gene-
rally covered with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathom ; water
between it and the island.*

Fairway channel, between this ledge and Rocky point of Gabriola island,
is fully three-quarters of a mile wide ; for a distance of 2 cables off the latter
point are depths of from 4 to 7 fathonir, rocky bottom, where kelp
occasionally grows ; this ledge of uneven rocky ground should be avoided.
A mid-channel course is recommended, which from a position half a mile
off Entrance island is S.W. ^ W. for 3 miles ; the water is deep, and the
bottom irregular, varying from 15 to 40 fathoms ; if to the southward of
mid-channel it will shoal to 15 fathoms and shortly to 8 fathoms off Rocky
point.

Directions. — Having entered the strait of Georgia, between East
point of Saturna and Patos island, a W.N.VV. course for 38 miles will lead
nearly 3 miles outside Gabriola reefs, and abreast Entrance island, the
latter bearing S.W. distant 5 miles. A vessel proceeding through Fairway
channel if northward of mid-channel must keep a look-out for the kelp on
Lighthouse island ledge ; when Lighthouse island bears N.W. steer S. { W.,
which leads for the entrance of Nanaimo harbour, (hstant a little over
2 miles. Strangers should be careful not to mistake Northumberland
channel for it, which lies in a . S.S.E. direction from Lighthouse island,
between the high cliffy west coast of Gabriola island and Sharp point, a
remarkable narrow projection on the main, and off which, at the distance
of half a cable, is a rock w aich uncovers.

HrA'ing passed between Lighthouse and Gabriola islands, there is a good
working space of 1^ miles in breadth, between Gabriola on the east, and
Newcastle and Protection islands on the west, but the water is too deep for
anchorage. The shores of the latter islands should not be approached
within one quarter of a mile, as shoal rocky ledges extend off them. Having
brought Gallows point (the southern extreme of Protection island) to bear
S.W. 4 W"., the town will come in view.

A vessel may anchor if necessary with the high-water mark of Gallows
point bearing W.N.W., distant one-quarter of a mile, which will be in the
fairway of the entrance, but it is difficult for a sailing vessel to pick up a
berth here with a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is confined.

NANAIMO HARBOURf (on Vancouver island) is formed by
Protection island (lying at a little over half a mile off shore) to the eastward,
and Newcastle island to the northward ; this latter island approaching the

* The southern extreme of this ledge is marked by a black can buoy moored in 3^
fathoms, with the southern end of Lighthouse island bearing N.W. by W. * VV., distant
about 4 cables. This buoy is intentionally coloured black to show better regarded as ft
danger buoy merely.

A black buoy is moored 250 yards S.W. by S. from the south point of tlie island.

■}• See Admiralty plan of Nanaimo harbour, No. 573; scale, m = 12 inches; also
Nanaimo liarbour and Departure bay, No. 2,512 ; scale, m b 4 inche.s.

CHAP IV.]

NANAIMO.

145

shore of Vancouver to within a distance of 1^ cables, and forming a narrow
strait affording communication with Departure bay to the northward.

The channels leading into Nanaimo aarbour from the eastward are
marked by red buoys on their northern sides, and black buoys on their
southern sides. These buoys are numbered.*

The entrance to the harbour lies between Gallows point on the north
side and a bank of mud on the south side, A rocky ledge extends for 1^
cables' lengths on all sides of the point, and in summer is marked by kelp ;
a large boulder stands on the ledge off the point, distant 150 yards, and
covers before high water. The south side of the channel is the northern
edge of the great shallow bay to the southward, which although it does
not quite dry in this part, has only 2 or 3 feet on it at low water, and is
steep-to. The entrance is here marked by a I'ed conical buoy off Gallows
point, and a black buoy on the south side, a little over one cable apart.
The harbour thence opens out, and when the banks are covered, gives the
idea of being a large sheet of water, but the deep part is limited.

The town of Nanaimo, which is rapidly increasing in importance, contains
about 4,000 inhabitants, but it is being continually added to by immigra-
tion. Extensive colliery works are in full operation, and the country
around possesses exceptional natural facilities. Steamers call here from
San Francisco, Portland, and Alaska, as well as from Victoria and coast
ports, and there is communication with Victoria by rail.

The communication with New Westminster and Comox is weekly, with
Victoria and the way-ports bi-weekly. Between San Francisco and
Nanaimo two steamships make two trips a month each. Nanaimo is con-
nected with Victoria, and New Westminster by electric telegraph. The
wharf accommodation is excellent. Two or more steamers can be coaled at
the same time ; the depth alongside the wharf at low water being 28 feet.

Ships are often placed on the beach at the high rise and fall of the tide,
affording an opportuntity for eflfecting any repairs to the hull.

Provision is made for sick seamen, who are either admitted to the
Nanaimo hospital, or transferred to the marine hospital at Victoria.
A steam ferry runs between Nanaimo and Departure bay.

Middle bank, 2 cables long in a northerly direction, and half a cable
broad, lies in the centre of the harbour, and has a depth of only 3 feet on
it in places ; it is marked by a black conical buoy on its north end, and a
red conical buoy with globe on its south end.

Beacon rock lies nearly one cable off shore abreast the northern
pier ; a beacon, consisting of an iron staff surmounted by a ball, has been
erected on this rock.

* A bell buoy has been placed in Fairway channel, with the southern end of Light-
house island bearing N.W. by W. \ W., distant three-quarters of a mile.

A 17498. K

146

EOSARIO AND GEORGIA STRAITS.

[chap. it.

NiCOl rock, lying H cables E.S.E. from Beacon rock and three*
quarters of a cable from the nearest shf^re, is marked by a buoy, coloured
red and black in horizontal stripes. , : • > :

Directions. — Two narrow winding channels, the North and South,
lead into the usual anchorage, which is close off the town, and westward of
the Middle bank ; both are buoyed in the vicinity of the latter, but no
stranger should enter either channel without a pilot.

The North channel lies between the Middle bank (to the southward) and
the south edge of the Satellite reef, which is marked by a red buoy with
staff and ball ; steer about West to pass between the latter and the black
buoy off the north edge of the Middle bank, then haul close round the
southern buoy to avoid the 3-fathora patch, and steer for the mine chimney.
The South channel, though of sufficient depth for large vessels, has a some-
what sharp turn at its western end, but is very convenient for sailing vessels
leaving with a northerly wind, when they would be obliged to warp out of
the North channel. , ,

A black conical buoy is moored at the edge of the bank which extends
more than 2 cables from the shore at the entrance to Mill stream, to the
northward of the town.

AncllOra/gO. — Anchor close off the town in 5 fathoms, midway
between the black buoy on north edge of Middle bank and Beacon rockt
VcLdels can go alongside the wharves.

Supplies. — Beef and mutton maybe procured, and the country around
abounds in wild fowl and deer.

Ship stores can be obtained ; but material necessary for refitting a vessel
must be procured from Victoria. The facilities for repairing a ship's hull
and machinery are limited, but small work connected with the latter might
be executed at the machine shops belonging to the Vancouver Coal
Company and R. Dunsmuir & Sons.

Trade. — The chief exports consist of coal, and the imports of general
merchandise. The value of the former for the year 1886 amounted to
^975,155, and of the latter to ^300,270. The number of vessels that
entered the port during the year was 239, representing a total tonnage of
197,851 tons. <-

Coa>l. — The mines of Nanaimo produce a fair bituminous coal, which
answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per cent,
than Welsh coal, and its consumption proportionately rapid. The mines
are now in full working, the output for the year 1882 being nearly 300,000
tons, the greater part of which was sent to San Francisco.

The quantity of coal usually maintained on hand is 5,000 tons, and the
price is ^3^ per ton. Vessels can coal from lighters alongside at all times.

OHAP. IV.] NANAIMO HARBOUR.— DEPARTURE BAT.

147

'■l^

Newcastle island also produces large quautities, and the mines there are
being rather extensively worked.

A small creek on the north side of Douglas coal wharf aflfbrds excellent
facilities for beaching a vessel, and is fi'equently resorted to for that purpose.
In 1873 spar buoys were placed on the edge of the Patent Slip flat, and on
the spit in the middle of the exit passage.

DEPARTURE BAY.* — From Nanaimo the long narrow channel
or arm between Newcastle island and the main leads in a N.W. direction
to Departure bay. It is 1^ miles in length, and one cable in breadth,
with 12 feet at low water, except on a rock which has only 2 feet water
on it lying in the centre, 2^ cables N.W. by W. ^ W. from Reef point
(the south point of Newcastle island) ; this rock is marked by a black
buoy (No. 11). Vessels of 15 or 16 feet draught may enter Departure
bay by this channel at suitable times of tide, but large vessels must enter
northward of Newcastle island.

The northern entrance to Departure bay is between Boulder point, the
steep cliffy north point of Newcastle island, and Jesse island,f a small island
to the northward of it, and lies 2 miles S.W. ^ W. fi'om Lighthouse island ;
it is 3 cables wide and there is a depth of 20 fathoms in it. Very little less
than this depth will be found in any part of the bay, and it is not nearly so
sheltered as Nanaimo harbour. When coming from the northward, care
must be taken to avoid the reef which extends more than 1^ cables from
Horswell bluff, the north entrance point of the bay. A black can buoy
is moored off Horswell bluff in 3^ fathoms Avater, at the eastern extremity
of the reef.|

There are coaling piers in the north-west part of the bay, aid two
additional coaling wharves have been built in the south-west corner. There
is a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms ut low water alongside all the wharves. Three
warping buoys have been placed for the convenience of vessels about to
coal. Fresh water can be obtained from Messrs. Dunsmuir's wharf.

The mining village of Wellington has a population of about 1,000, and
when required 1,500 tons of coal can be put out in a day.

Buoy.— A red beacon buoy (No. 8) marks the reef in south-east comer
of Departure bay ; it is moored 1^ cables north-west of the entrance to
the channel leading into Nanaimo harbour.

* See Admiralty plan of Nantumo harbour and Departure bay, No. 2,512 ; scale,
m=4t inches.

f A reef extends from the east end of Jessa island ; it is marked by a black can buoy,
moored in 7^ fathoms, at a distance of 1|^ cables eastward of the extreme of the island.
A red can buoy is also moored in 3 J fathoms westward of Black island, northern side of
Departure bay. These buoys are intended to mark the channel inside Jesse island to
the North ^Wellington coal wharves, which ii frequently used by vessels proceeding
to load.

.'*' Coloured black intentionally to show better regarded as a danger buoy merely.

K 2

148

KOSARIO AND GEORGIA STRA'.TS.

|_CHAP. IV.

Directions. — Vessels intending to load with coals,* should bring the
steep north point of Newcastle island to bear N. by E., and anchor in not
less than 18 fathoms off the coal mine, 2 cables' lengths from the shore (or
make fast to the mooring buoy until ready to haul alongside the wharf) ; the
bank runs up steep within the above depth, and shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms*
Unless anchored well out, a vessel is liable, with N.W. winds, to tail on the
bank ; and ships are not recommended to lie here after they have got their
cargo in. A stranger should take a pilot for the coaling station in Departure
bay, either from outside or in Nanaimo harbour.

MIDDLE CHANNEL, over one mile wide, lies between Light-
house and Five Finger islands ; it ia perfectly free from danger, and has a
depth of 80 fathoms. Passing through the centre of it, a S.S.E. course leads
for Nanaimo harbour, between Protection island and Sharp point.

Five Finger island is a bare rugged islet 48 feet high, of about
the same dimensions as Lighthouse island, but of trap formation, instead
of sandstone ; the five hummocks on it resemble knuckles more than fingers.

West rocks. — Four cables S.S.W. from Five Finger island are three
smaller islets of similar character and formation, with some rocks about
them, which uncover. These islets and rocks occupy a space of half a mile
in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction ; there ia a passage 3 cables wide between
them and Five Finger island with irregular rocky bottom,the depths varying
from to 35 fathoms ; it is not recommended, but, if used, Five Finger
island should be kept aboard.

Inner channel, 4 cables in breadth, lies between the above islets
and the shore of the main, and being more direct, is convenient for steamers
or small crafl bound to or from the northward j the mid-channel course
through it is N.W. Almost in the centre of this channel are the Clarke
rocks, which dry 4 feet at low water. A black can buoy is moored on
these rocks.t

Tid3S. — It is high water, full and change, at Nanaimo harbour about
5 p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 14 feet, which is as much as
is met with anywhere on the coast, rendering this a most eligible spot for
the construction of docks, for which it offers peculiar facilities. This great
range of tide only occurs at midnight during winter, and in the daytime
in summer. The superior and inferior tides exist here as they do at
Esquimalt and among the Haro archipelago.

NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before mentioned
(pp. 94, 144) as lying between Sharp point and tbfi western shore of Gabriola

* The coal i^ nearly the same weight as Welsh ; price jfS per ton ; and is put on
board very expeditiously, the trucks shooting it straight on board the Tessel*
t Coloured black intentionally to show better regarded as a danger buoy merely. -

' >

i^,

CHAP. IV.] MIDDLE CHANNEL. — NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL. 149

islanrl, runs in a S.E. direction for 1^ miles, and then East for 2 miles,
when it enters the Dodd and False narrows, the former on the south side of
Mudge island, the latter on the north ; a rock which uncovers extends half
a cable off the extreme of Sharp point. False narrows are shoal with no
ship passage, but there is excellent anchorage in Percy bay at their western
entrance, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, where vessels may lie to wait the tide
through Dodd naiTows.

A submarine electric cable crosses Northumberland channel thi e-
quarters of a mile westward of Dodd narrows.

Dodd narrows have been already described (page 93) from the
southward ; they communicate with the inner channels leading to the
southern ports, and save a distance of 20 miles in the passage from
Nanairao to Victoria or Esquimalt, and they are consequently frequented
by boats, small vessels, and sometimes by steam vessels of considerable size
acquainted with the locality. Strangers are not recommended to use
them. Coming down Northumberland channel, look out for the narrow
entrance on the south side, and when it bears S.E. steer for it ; the tides
run at their strongest 8 knots, and there is a very short interval of slack
water ; the breadth in the narrowest part is 80 yards. The tides in Dodd
narrows are about an hour earlier than at Nanaimo, therefore a vessel
intending to pass down should be at the narrows an hour before high water
at that place, if going through with the first of the ebb j or at two hours
before low water if with the last of it.

wmmi.

' ')■

>lli;" Ml> :■ ./.J : .;'» I'lSO':'' — .r.iVt.Af't' ^^l-'alM i.v•,^^t;.

C-'HAPTEIl V. .(„ 11 r' I ^ '■ ■■ •!)..« 1. rtCAilvJ

THE STKAIT OF GEOEGIA, FROM NANAIMO HARBOUR AND
BURRARD INLET, TO CAPE MUDGE AND BUTE INI.ET. ,

Variation, 23° 30' East, in 1888.

The strait of Georgia,* as already observed, commences at the northern
end of the Haro archipelago, and extends in a general W.N.W. direction
to cape Mudge, a distance of 1 10 miles. There are many harbours, both
on the Vancouver and continental shores ; and several islands, some of
considerable size, form other channels, all of which are navigable.

The average width of the main strait westward of Nanaimo is about
9 miles, diminishing at its narrowest part, between Lasqueti and the
Ballinac islands, to 5 miles. The general depth of water is great,
frequently over 200 fathoms. The tides are not strong, and between
Nanaimo and cape Mudge there are few dangers in the way of ships
navigating the strait. ■ . ■ ,.:-., \; .. •.,(?',

The smaller channels on the continental shore are Malaspina strait and
Sabine channel, the former lying between the continent and Texada
island, the other separating Texada from Lasqueti island.

On the Vancouver shore is Ballinac chanutl, lying westward of the
islands of the same name ; also Lambert channel and Baynes sound, the
former between Hornby and Denman islands, and the latter dividing both
from Vancouver island.

TidOS* — The meeting of the tides takes place between cape Mudge
and cape Lazo ; that is to say, the flood entering by Fuca strait meets
that entering by the north end of Vancouver island, within 20 miles of
the former cape, generally much nearer, but varying according to the
phases of the moon and the state of the winds ; and at the point of
meeting a considerable race occurs, which would be dangerous to boats :
there is genei'ally such a i-ace at the entrance of Discovery passage. It
is high water, full and change, at cape Mudge and cape Lazo at about
5 h. 30 m., and the range during ordinary springs is from 12 to 14 feet. At
the entrance of the passage during springs the tidal streams attain a
velocity of 4 to 6 knots an hour, the flood, or easterly stream, being the
strongest.

* See Admiralty "harts : — Strait of Georgia, sheet 1, No. 579 ; scale, m = 0*5 of an
inch : also sheet 2, No. 980 ; scale, m = 0*5 of an inch.

CHAP, v.]

NANOOSE HAEBOUE.

151

Winds. — The prevailing summer wind in the strait of Georgia is
from N-W., or the same as on the outside coast, and between May and
September it blows strong and steady, commencing about 9 a.m. and
dying away towards sunset. These winds do not generally extend much
below point Roberts, among the Haro archipelago they become variable
and baffling, while in the main channels of Eosario and Haro the westerly
wind entering the strait of Fuca is deflected to S.W., and vessels running
up these channels with a fair wind will almost always find it ahead on
entering the strait of Georgia. During winter there is a good deal of
moderate, calm, c-'d gloomy weather, but gales from S.E. and S.W. are
frequent..

NANOOSE HARBOUR,* at 8 miles westward from Nanaimo,
is easily recognised by Nanoose or Notch hill, a remarkable hill 625 feet
higiJ, immediately -"ver its north side, showing as a double or nolch peak
from the southward ; the harbour or inlet indents the coast for over
3 miles in a W.S.W. direction and is remarkably clear of danger. The
entrance between Maude island and Blunden point is three-quarters of a
mile wide, and the width of the harbour varies between 3 cables and over
one mile. There are depths of from 30 to 35 fathoms at the entrance, and
deep water is carried up to within half a mile of the head, when it shoals
more rapidly.

Leaving Nanaimo harbour, and passing out by either channel (Middle
channel to be preferred), or being at from one-half to one mile northward
from Five Finger island, a W. by S. course, or straight for Nanoose hill,
leads for the entrance of the harbour, distant 7 miles.

The shore westward of Nanaimo is free from danger, and at the distance
of half a mile 20 fathoms water is found ; within this distance it shoals
rather suddenly to 5 and 4 fathoms. ^ , . ., ,r ,

Winchelsea and Ada islands, a group of small wooded

islands, lie off the north point of Nanoose harbour.

Maude island, small, wooded, and about 100 feet high, is the
southernmost of the group, and lies three-quarters of a mile E.N.E. from
the north point of the harbour. Vessels working in may stand pretty
close to it and to Blunden point, but when inside the latter, a sand-bank
dries for a considerable distance off at low water, and the south shore
should not be approached within one quarter of a mile.

Entrance rock, 2 feet above high water, lies If miles W.S.W.
from Blunden point, extending off a low maple flat on the south side,
almost into the middle of the harbour, and contracting the width of the

* ^ee Admiralty plan of Nanoose harbour on Sheet of Plans, No. 585 ; scale>
m = 3 inches.

152

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

passage to 3 cables ; within this, the harbour opens out to nearly one mile
in width, terminating at r distance of 1| miles in a shoal mud flat, which
dries at low water more than half a mile, and where quantities of oysters
are found.

North rock, the only danger on the north shore, when entering, lies
nearly 2 cables from the shore, and has a depth of 5 feet on the outer
part.

Directions. — when midway between Maude island and Blunden
point, the fair course in is W.S.W. When the east point of Southey island
is shut in by the north entrance point. North rock will be passed, and the
north shore should be kept rather aboard. Entrance rock should in no
case be passed nearer than one cable's length, and if working in, beware of
the North rock, and the sand-bank already mentioned as extending off the
south shore, and which stretches also for one quarter of a mile westward
from Entrance rock ; when that distance westward of the rock, both shores
of the harbour are clear of danger.

Anchorage* — No convenient anchorage in less than 18 fathoms will
be found, until well up towards the head. When Nanoose hill bears
North, anchor in 12 fathoms in the centre of the harbour, or as near to
either shore as desired. It is a spacious anchorage, and well sheltered from
all winds.

Thei'e is a convenient nook with a steep shingle beach, where a vessel
might be laid for repairs if necessary, on the north side, one mile from the
head.

Supplies. — Grouse are to be got here, and fresh water may be obtained
from a cove at the head on the north side.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Nanoose harbour, at
-5 p.m.; springs range 15 feet.

The COAST for 6 miles westward of Nanoose is fringed with
numerous small islands and reefs, the latter generally marked by kelp.
The outermost of them, Winchelsea and Yeo islands, extend between one
and 2 miles from the land, and beyond these there are no hidden dangers.

Between Maude and Southey islands there is a clear passage of 4 cables,
with deep water, by which, if necessary, vessels may enter or leave
Nanoose harbour. There are also channels among the smaller groups for
coasters ; and there is anchorage in fine weather between them at 2 cables
from the mainland, generally in 10 fathoms.

Small vessels may find good shelter in Schooner cove at 1^ miles west-
ward of the north point of Nanoose harbour. There is a rock awash
nearly in the centre of the entrance, but nearer to the north point.

wmm^

CHAP, v.]

BALLINAC ISLANDS.

153

Winchelsea islands are tho south-eafltemmost of tho group off
Nanooso, and lie a little over one mile N. by W. from Maude island ; they
are low, and somewhat lees than one milo in extent.

The Grey rock, bare, 12 feet above high water, and rather remark-
able, lies 2 cables E.N.E. from the east emi of this group.

Rudder reef, with a depth of one fathom on it, lies one-quarter of
a mile S.E. ^ E. from Grey rock, and has very little kelp on it. This reef
must be avoided by vessels bound westward from Nanoose harbour, and
the S.E. end of the Winchelsea islands should b. given a berth of at least
half a mile.

Yeo and Gerald islands He westward from the Winchelsea
group, and are smaller. They may be safely passed to the northward, at
the distance of half a mile.

BALLINAC ISLANDS, two in number, are larger than the
groups just described, and lie 2^ miles off shore. They «»re about 250 feet
high ; the northernmost has only two or three trees on it, and its summit
terminates in a sharp, bare nipple ; the southernmost 13 wooded. They
have the appearance of being one island seen from all points, being only
separated by a narrow passage which at the eastern entrance is less than
one cable wide, but opens out within, and forms a sheltered cove with
anchorage for small vessels in 8 fathoms, close to its southern sandy beach ;
on the west side this channel is almost closed, and there is no passage
into it. The islands are steep and bold on all sides, and are conspicuous
after passing westward of Nanaimo ; vessels bound through the strait of
Georgia would do well to steer for them.

Having passed Entrance island, or gained an offing of one mile from
Lighthouse or Five Finger islands, a direct course for Ballinac islands leads
well outside all the small islands and reefs which have been desci'ibed as
lying off the coast westward of Nanoose. Before closing them, it must be
decided whether to take the main strait to the northward between the
Ballinac and Lasqueti islands (which is here 5 miles in width, with a depth
of water varying from 100 to 200 fathoms), or to use the Ballinac channel
to the southward of them : the latter course saves some distance, and far
smoother water is found during strong N.W. winds.

BALLINAC CHANNEL, southward of the islands of the same
name, between them and the smaller group which extend off the coast
westward from Nanoose, is a safe, clear passage, 1^ miles in width at its
narrowest part (abreast Gerald island) ; the depth in mid-channel is 136
fathoms, and the shores of the islands on both sides may be approached
within one cable's length, if necessary.

154

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[ciup. ▼.

To steamers, coasters, or vessels ^vith a fair wind, Ballinac channel is
recommended. Largo sailing vessels with a foul wind would find it an
advantage to make long boards, and pass to the northward of the islands
^hrough the main strait.

Cottam reef, the only danger in the channel, has 2^ fathoms water
on it, and is generally marked by kelp ; it lies on the southern side, and
IJ miles S.S.W. ^ W. from the highest part of north BaUinac island,
IJ miles W. | N. from the centre of Gerald island, and nearly one mile
E. by N. ^ N. from the north end of Mistaken island. The northernmost
of the Winchelsea islands kept open of Yeo islands bearing E. ^ S. leads
well north of the reef,

NORTH-WEST BAY, 5 miles westward from Nanoose, indents
the coast for 2 miles in an E.S.E. direction, making a peninsula of the
land which separates it from Nanoose harbour. It is much exposed to
N.W. winds and the water in it is very deep ; a considerable stream flows
into the bay at its western entrance.

Mistaken island, low, wooded, and half a mile long, lies
close off its nortbern entrance point, aad 2^ miles S.W. ^ S. from the
north Ballinac island.

The COAST. — From North-west bay the land trends, with a slight
indentation, nearly West for 19 miles to Denman and Hornby islands, and
to the southern entrances of Baynes sound and Lambert channel. This
stretch of coast presents no remarkable feature, wooded bluffs, of moderate
height, terminating in sandy or shingle points, off which for a very short
distance the water is shoal.

The land between Nanoose and the Comox district, a distance of 24
miles, is undulating, and of a moderate height, from the sea-coast to the
base of the mountain ranges, a distance of about 4 miles, and although
generally densely wooded near to the sea, is lightly timbered a short
distance inland, with some patches of prairie land.

QUALICUM RIVER* disembogues 30 miles westward from
Nanaimo, and 5 miles eastward from the eastorn entrance of Baynes sound.
It is a small stream, only noticeable as affording shelter to canoes or boats
within its entrance, and as being the terminus of the trail between the head
waters of Barclay sound and the eastern coast of the island, a distance of
only 13 miles in a direct line.

The entrance of Qualicum river has nothing to mark its position until
within one mile of it, when the boulder stones which fringe the whole of this

* A black can buoy is moored in 5 fathoms water, about one-third of a mile north-
ward of the river entrance.

!«-

CHAP, v.] QUALICUM EIVEB. — DENMAN AUJD HORNBY ISLANDS. 155

<■■

T"-

C0R8t will bo Heen to oxtend somewhat further of! shore than at other points.
It lies 17 miles W. by S. from the Balliuac islonds, and when the sharp east
point of Hornby island bears N. by W., it will bo easily made out at the
distance of one mile.

Home lEke, from which this stream has its source, is 5jf miles
S. by W. from the river entrance ; the trail to it ia by an easy ascent
through a loosely-timbered country. Crossing this lake in a westerly
direction for 2^ miles, and ascending a somewhat precipitous range for
about 1,500 feet, the waters of Barclay sound are visible to the S.W. about
4 miles ; the whole journey can be accomplished in a doy. There are
passes between the mountains a few miles to the cr 'rard, by which
communication with Barclay sound might bo establisl ' ■, without en-
countering any elevation above 700 feet.

QualiCUm bay is a slight indentation of the '' > it, imi.^ediatcly west
of the river, v'here very fair anchorage will be found in 8 r 10 fathoms,
at three-iidai tors of a mile from the shore, with the cast polut of Hornby
if- nd bearing N. ^ W. j the holding ground is good, and northerly winds,
which would make it a lee shore, seldom blow with any strength. From
N.W. winds it is in a great measure sheltered by the islands, but with those
from S.E. a considerable sea will get up, though there would be plenty of
room, and no danger of drifting with good ground tackle.

The mountain ranges westward of Nanaimo are of considerable height,
and very striking in their general features and varied outlines; most
conspicuous amongst them, and midway between Barclay sound and the
east coast, rises mount Arrowsmith to a height of 5,976 feet, its remarkable
Bummit terminating in three sharp well-defined peaks, rarely free from
snow. -

DENMAN and HORNBY ISLANDS lie immediately off
the coast, 34 miles westward from Nanaimo ; the former is 9 miles long, in
a W.N.W. direction, or parallel with the coast, and has an average width
of 2 miles, its highest elevation being about 400 feet, and wooded.

Hornby island is about 4 miles across in every direction ; over its
western side rises rather abruptly mount Geoffrey, a remarkable flat-
top hill, 1,076 feet high, sloping gradually down on the east side and
terminating in a low bare grassy point; on the eastern side is Tribune bay,
affording good anchorage. On both these Islands there is a considerable
quantity of good land, particularly on the latter, also fiosh water ; and from
the nature of the formation, it is probable that coal seaius will be found to
exist. ■"' ■ "■' "■■'"

Denman island is separated from the mainland by a good passage called
Baynes sound, and Hornby island from Denman by Lambert channel.
There is morj tide felt in the channel than in the sound; in the former its
rate is sometimes 2 knots, the flood coming from the south-eastward. The

156

STBAIT OF GEORGIA.

[CHA.P. V.

prevailing winds are north-westerly, therefore, for sailing vessels from the
southward, the main strait east of Hornby island is to be preferred.

BAYNES SOUND, separating Denman island from the mainland,
is a narrow sheet of water 18 miles long, with an average navigable width of
over half a mile, and with a general depth of from 20 to 26 fathoms, so that
vessels may, if necessary, drop an anchor in any part ; there are, however,
two very fair anchorages, Fanny bay on the south or main side, and Henry
bay on the north or island side. At the distance of 14 miles from the
eastern entrance of the sound is port Augusta, into which flows the
Courtenay river, one of the largest streams in Vancouver island, and in this
immediate neighbourhood is a large extent of good clear grass land.

The exit into the strait of Georgia by the north-west entrance of the
sound, between the north end of Denman island and cape Lazo, is nearly
2 miles in width, but a remarkable bridge or bar of sand, strewed with
large stones, extends the whole way across, and at low water there is as
little as 8 feet on it {see page 159) ; during summer it is thickly covered with
kelp, which never altogether disappears. The bar is very narrow, and is
always smooth ; towards high water, vessels of 19 feet draught, by carefully
paying attention to the leading marks and buoys, may safely pass either
into or out of the stmit by this channel.

Buoys. — The east and west entrances to Baynes sound are marked by
buoys. A black can buoy is moored in 4 fathoms on the north-east side
of Kelp bar, and a similar buoy is moored in 3^ fathoms on the south-
west side of the bar ; these buoys bear, approximately, from each other
N. by E. ^ E. and S. by W. J W. A course from one to the other leads over
the bar in 2 fathoms water. The sand-spit extending from Maple point
is marked by a black can buoy moored in 3^ fathoms ; and the patches off
Reef bluff (Kelp reef), on the opposite side of the channel, by a red spar
buoy, moored in 4 fathoms.

LOEding marks.* — On White beach, leading marks consisting of
white washed planks attached to trees, have been orected.

These marks when in line bearing S. by W. \ W. present the appearance
of an upper and lower cross, and may be seen from a distance of 6 miles,
they lead across the bar at the western entrance, in not less than 12 feet at
low water.

Yellow island is small and bare, 80 feet high, and generally of a
yellow colour. It lies close off the south-east point of Denman island, is
conspicuous, may be seen for several miles, and is a good object to steer for
com\ng from the eastward, as it forms tha eastern entrance point of the

80UI\d.

MaplO point, which forms the western entrance point, is also very
corspicuoua; it lies 1^ miles S.W. by W. from Yellow island, and is low

* See plan of port Augusta on AdtE<>nlty chart, No. 585 ; scale, m •• 3 incheM.

GBAP. v.]

BAYNES SOUND.

157

,-'

and covered with maples, which in form and foliage bear a remarkable
contrast to the pine, the prevailing feature, particularly in autumn and
winter, when the leat' assumes a bright yellow or orange colour.

A sand-spit, which dries at low water, and is rather steep-to, extends
one-third of a mile north from Maple point,* and the 3-fathom line is the
same distance from the shore as far eastward ?vs '>ualicum baj ; therefore,
neither the coast nor the point should be approached within that distance.

AncllOrage. — if desired there is good anchorage outside, in 6
fathoms, with Yellow island in line with Norris reef bearing N.E. ^ N.,
and Maple point W.S.W. distant three-quarters of a mile.

Directions. — Entering Baynes sound by the south-eastern channel,
some care is necessary to avoid a shoal sand-spit extending off Maple point
on the south side, marked by u black can buoy, as well as some rocky
patches and foul ground lying off the Denman island shore, nearly 2 miles
westward of Yellow island.

Immediately opposite on Denman island, N.W. from Maple point,
is Eeef bluff, a high clay cliff, with a bare grassy slope ; off this cliff,
for 2 cables' lengths, extend some rocky patches (Kelp reef), marked by
a red spar buoy, which narrow the width of the entrance between them
and Maple poiat spit to something over 3 cables. When entering, it
is recommended to steer in nearly mid-channel, or with the low extreme
of Reef bluff in line with the low part of Ship point of Fanny bay
bearing W. \ N., until Maple point bears South, or mount Tremeton is
in line with, or just shut in by Boyle point, the south-east extreme of
Denman island bearing E.N.E., then steer W.S.W., keeping these marks
on astern, which will lead midway between Maple point spit and the
patches off the north shore.

Mount Tremeton, the summit of Lasqueti island, is a very remarkable
bare, castellated nob, 1,056 feet high. When Maple point bears E. by S.,
the first reach of the sound will be well open, and Base flat, a low grassy
point on the west side of Fanny bay, will be seen open of Ship point ;
then steer up n,id-channel about W.N.W. Ship point, with the land one
mile east of it, shows as two bold wooded bluffs, which should not be
approached within 2 cables.

The southerti side of the sound between Maple point and Fanny bay foi
about 4 miles Ib low, and shoal water extends for a considerable distance
off it ; it is recommended not to stand so far over on this side as altogether
to shut in Base flat by the bluffs of Ship point just mentioned.

Doep bay. — Maple point from the extremity of the trees turns sharp
off at a right angle to the W.S.W. for half a mile, and forms a low sandy
spit, in shape resembling the long beak of a bird ; westward of this is Deep

* A black can buoy is moored in 3^ fathoms on the end of the sand-spit extending
from Maple point, with Yellow island bearing £. by N. \ N., Northerly, distant l\ miles.

168

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

•

bay, in which the depth varies from 15 to 20 fathoms, irregular bottom,
but sandy. It is a small, and not very desirable anchorage, and as the shoal
extends ofp the back of the spit for its whole length to the distance of one-
thiixi of a mile, the extreme of it, which is steep-to, cannot be steered
for until it bears S.E. ; if intending to anchor, the best berth is in 14
to 16 fathoms about 1^ cables' lengths east of the spit, and near the centre
of the bay. ' ,. . , ; ■.•,...■

FANNY BAT, on the southern side of the sound, 4 miles north-west
from Maple point, affords a good though somewhat limited anchorage.
Base flat, the delta of a considerable stream, having ^its rise in the Beaufort
range of mountains, forms its western point ; and Ship point, a bold
wooded bluff, its eastern. Entering from the eastward, give Ship point,
and the coast of the peninsula immediately eastward of it, a berth of one-
quarter of a mile.

Anchorage. — Anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms in the middle of the bay,
with Ship point distant a short half mile and in line with the Reef bluff,
bearing E. ^ S., Avhich latter will appear as the south-east extreme of
Denman island. . ■

The eastern part of the bay dries entirely at low water, and a sandy flat
extends a considerable distance off all around the shores, therefore some
cautiou is necessary in anchoring. Small vessels may stand in to 8 fathoms,
from which depth it shoals very suddenly off Base flat ; a sand-bank dries
for more than 3 cables' lengths at low water.

Village point. — From Fanny bay the trend of the sound alters
slightly to the northwai'd, taking a north-westerly direction, and increasing
gradually in width from one mile to 2 miles, which latter it attains at the
nortli end of Denman island ; the general depth of water is 25 fathoms, and
both shores are free from danger, with the exception of some rocky or
boulder ledges which extend from one to 2 cables oft the points. Village
point, on Denman islond, with a large native settlement on it, ia re-
markable ; it is 2 miles N.W. from Fanny bay, and a sand-spit extends a
short distance off it.

HENRY BAV, — Denman island towards its north-west end falls
away into a remarkable wedge shape, terminating in a singular sharp beak-
shaped extreme called Beak point ; the hollow of this beak, on the north-
west side of lie island, forms Henry bay, which is nearly 6 miles from
Fanny bay, and is a safe and convenient anchorage, though, like the latter,
it is somewhat limited in size. The shores are moderately high and
wooded ; its western extreme is a low but steep shingle spit, with one or
two trees on it, lutd a clear beach of the same character extends all around
the bay. ri".,r ,.i,.. .; •^ ■

• Anchorage. — The holding ground is very good, and the anchorage
in 9 or 10 fathoms iu the centre of the bay, with the western shingle point

OHAP. ▼.]

BAYNES SOUND.

159

bearing N.W., when a remarkable oiump of trees on Sandy island will be
just open westward of it ; here a vessel will be one-quaiter of a mile from
the beach, where a considerable native village is built. The Indians resort
to this bay in large numbers during summer to fish.

Sandy island. — From Beak point a series of sand-banks, some of
them above water, others covered, extend in u N.W. direction for a
little more than 2 miles. Sandy island, the largest of them, is two-thirds
of a mile from the point, and 6 feet above high water, with large boulder
stones dispersed over it; there is a good boat passage through at half
tide.

White spit. — Two-thirds of a mile north-west from Sandy island
is Wl)ite spit, which almost covers, and is very remarkable from the
number of clam shells collected on it, giving it an appearance of a white
sandy beach ; it is connected with Sandy island at very low tides.

Eelp bar. — The end of the shoal, which occasionally dries in patches,
extends two-thirds of a mile north-west from White spit, and from it
commences the remarkable kelp bar, or bridge before mentioned (page 156),
which connects Denman island with the land about cape Lazo, distant
nearly 2 miles. The bar is composed of sand, interspersed with large
boulders, which can be v^cjen at low water ; great quantities of kelp grow
on it during summer, and it is rarely entirely without it. In shape it
resembles an hom'-glass, very narrow in the centre, not above 3 cables'
lengths, and with a depth of 15 feet at low water.* The western edge
of this bar is steep, shoaling suddenly, and vessels working to the N.W.
through Baynes sound should not stand so far to the eastward as to shut in
a remarkable single tree on the shingle spit of Beak point behind the clump
of trees on Sandy island, or avoid bringing White bluff (which is 2^ miles
southward from cape Lazo and is very conspicuous) to the westward
of N.W., and when within one mile of it, to the westward of N.N.W.

To cross the Kelp bar over its narrowest part and in the deepest water,
a vessel should stand 2^ miles through the sound, north-westward from
Henry bay, until the leading marks on the remarkable white beach (on the
western ohore, 3 miles West from Beak point) are in line bearing S. by
W. 4 W. {see page 156), then steer out boldly N. by E. ^ E., or on a direct
course from one buoy to the other; two or three casts of 15 feet will be
struck at low water, but it will immediately deepen to 3, 4, and shortly
15 fathoms ; the same directions will hold good for entering. The white
beach may be distinctly seen at 3 or 4 miles distance, but when entering,
until it is clearly made out, and the buoys on the bar are visible {see
page 156), cape Lazo should not be brought to the northward of N.N.W.,
nor the clump of trees on Sandy island to the eastward of S.S.E,

* A black can buoy, named Outer buoy, is moored on the north-east side of Kelp bar,
and a similar buoy, named Inner buoy, on the south-west side, {See page 156.)

160

STRAIT OP GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

PORT AUGUSTA,* in tlie north-west corner of Baynes eound,
although appealing to be a large sheet of water at high water, has its
upper part entirely filled up by a mud flat, which almost dries at low
tides, and is formed by the Courtenay river, which flows into it.

The small settlement of Comoz, containing about 350 inhabitants,
contains all necessary conveniences for settlers. There is a long wooden
pier on the north shore with a depth of 14 feet alongside, and at about
one mile off", is a Hudson's bay store and Indian village. Some number
of English and Scotch farmers are settled in the neighbourhood.

Oil wells have recently been discovered in the vicinity of port Augusta.

Goose spit, a remarkable elbow-shaped tongue of land, projects to
the southward and westward from White bluff ; it is grassy, with one or
two hillocks, and bare, with the exception of two solitary small clumps of
trees. Goose spit forms the northern entrance point of the port.

Grassy point, the southern entrance point, is very low and swampy,
the delta of a considerable stream ; off it, at low water, sand and boulders
dry for 2 cables' lengths, and the water shoals suddenly from 10 to one
fathom at the distance of 4 cables, leaving a width of less than one mile
between the entrance points.

Directions. — Goose spit is steep-to at its western end, but shoal
water extends 3 cables' lengths off its southern face ; and if working in, the
low western extreme must not be brought to the southward of West. Steer
in West, passing one-quarter of a mile from the spit, and anchoring in 13
or 14 fathoms, mud bottom, when it bears N.E. distant 3 or 4 cables. A
little more than half a mile westward from the spit the water shoals suddenly
from 7 fathoms to a few feet.

Bounding the spit end, which may be done very close, a deep cove extends
one mile to the eastward, or close up to White bluff ; its upper half dries
at low water, but there is snug anchorage in its outer part, in 14 fathoms,
with the spit end bearing S.E. by S., distant 2 cables. This is an excel-
lent place during a S.E. gale, though no sea to speak of could get up in
any part of port Augusta.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Augusta, at 5b. Cm. ;
springs rise 12 feet.

Supplies. — The harbour is full of fish and wild duck.

COURTENATmRIVER is a deep and rapid mountain stream,
but, on account of falls and other obstructions, is only navigable for a few
miles for boats and canoes ; it has its rise in mount Washington, from
whence it fiows in an E.S.E. direction, having u considerable extent of

* See Plan of port Augusta on Admiralty chart, No. 585 ; scale, m « 8 inches.

W"^ ^^M^M.'Tii'iM

OHAP.v.] PORT AUGUSTA. — COURTBNAY RIVEE, &C. 161

rich grass country on either side, lightly timbered with maple and pine,
and in some parts entirely clear. The rivar is full of salmon and trout at
the proper season ; the river is bridged over.

Mounl^ Washington is remarkable, and rises to 5,415 feet; it is the
westernmost of a range 10 miles in length, terminating in mount Beecher
to the east ; to the southward and westward of it are several high moun-
tain ranges and peaks from 4,000 to 7,000 feet above the sea, the highest
summits being covered with suow all the year round. Between the
former and the Beaufort range to the south-east is Bedford valley, through
which flows the Puntluch, a stream falling into the Courtenay 2 or 3 miles
above the head of port Augusta.

The Beaufort range rise on the western side of Baynes sound, 7 or
8 miles from the coast, and stretch for 12 miles in a W.N.W. and E.S.E.
direction, varying in elevation from 4,500 to 5,400 feet ; they are very
remarkable, presenting 7 or 8 distinct summits, which are rarely free from
snow.

This range, together with mount Washington, form the eastern boundary
of the great central valley and chain of lakes which extend through the
length of Vancouver island ft'om the head of Barclay sound.

LAMBERT CHANNEL, between Denman and Hornby islands,
is a safe passage 6 miles in length in a W.N.W. and N.W. direction. It is
one mile wide at its southern entrance, gradually increasing to the north-
vest as it opens into the strait of Georgia ; the general depth of water is
from 25 to 30 fathoms, shoaling to 16 on either side within 2 cables'
lengths of the shore. Coming from the southward, Yellow island marks
the western entrance point, while mount Geoffrey, a remarkable flat-top
hill, 1,076 feet high, on Hornby island, rises over the eastern side of the
channel ; either of these may be steered for until approaching the entrance,
when W.N.W. is a mid-channel course through. Yellow island and the
weste"'^ ''hore are free from danger. • -

Norris rock, on the eastern side, is of considerable extent at
low tide, but at high, a mere patch 6 feet above water ; it lies 1^
miles N.E. ^ N. from Yellow island, and three-quarters of a mile
E. ^ S. from Normau point, the eastern entrance point of the channel ;
from the latter point some reefs and foul ground extend nearly 4 cables'
lengths towards Norris rock, leaving a ' "rrow passage of 8 fathoms water
pretty close to the latter, but it is not recommended.

The eastern aide of Lambert channel, between Norman point and

Shingle spit, a distance of 2 miles, has two groups of rocks which

cover at high water extending nearly 2 cables' lengths off, and the shore

should not oe approached within one-quart,er of a mile; on these rocks

A 17498. I.

I ■-

162

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

•'''' [chap. v.

the sea generally breaks when there is any wind, and they are marked by
kelp in summer. ' . ■■ * .

Shingle spit is a remarkable low point on the eastern side of the
channel, 2 miles W. by N. ^ N., from' Norman point ; shoal wate? extends
off its extreme, ••vhich should be given a berth of one cable's length ;
temporary anchorage will be found on either side of it, according to the
wind ; to the northward, in 13 fathoms, at less than 2 cables' lengths
from the shore ; to the southward, in 9 or 10 fathoms ; but one patch
of the rocks which cover, before mentioned, lies 4 cables E.S.E. from the
spit end.

After passing Shingle spit the width of the channel increases, and there
are no dangers which are not visible. On the western side there is anchorage
in 12 fathoms off a low maple flat, a little over 2 miles W.N.W. from Shingle
spit, with the high boulder of Hornby island bearing N.E., but with N.W.
winds it would be exposed.

Two miles north-westward of this flat is Komas blufE, a bold wooded
headland, the north-east point of Denman island, from whence the coast
trends away to the westward and terminates at the distance of 3 miles in
Beak point, This stretch of land is shelving, with kelp patches and fjhallow
water extending some distance off. and vessels should give it a berth
of half a mile ; indeed, after passing Komas bluff, a good limit in stand-
ing to the westward is Shingle spit of Hornby island in line with the
south-east point of Denman island bearing S.E. J E. ; it is better not to
stand so far to the westward as to open out the channel between these two
points, in order to avoid the shoal gi'ound in the neighbourhood of Sandy
island and the eastern side of Kelp bar ; these marks are very prominent,
and answer equally for vessels bound through Lambert channel from the
northward.

Off the north end of Hornby island is a remarkable boulder rock, 7 or 8
feet high, with smaller ones near it, and vessels should not approach the shore
in this neighbo- rhood within a long half a mile, at which distance are depths
of from 7 to 10 fathoms. ..• n ,. ■ . . • . i, 'Jc.^'yf J?i>''^'v>y

TRIBUNE BAY,* on the south-east side of Hornby island,
affords good anchoruge with all but easterly or south-easterly winds, to
which it is exposed. It is easy to enter or to leave, and conveniently
situated as a stopping place for vessels bound either way, being 35 miles
west of Nanaimo, and 40 eastward of cape Mudge and the entrance of
Discovery passage. It indents the island in a W.N.W. direction for
1| miles, with a width of three-quarters of a ""ile. At its head are two
bays, separated by a jutting p' int ; the northern has a clean white sandy
beach.

* See plun of Tribune bay ou Admiralty chiirt. No. 580 ; scale, m = 2*0 inches.

CHAP, v.] TRIBUNE BAY.— CAPE LAZO. 163

The eastern end of Hornby island terminates in a rather remarkoblo
pcint (St. John), grassy, and bare of trees. 0£E it, in an E.S.E. direction,
are 2 or 3 small low islets. Some reefs on which the sea generally breaks
extend nearly half & mile outside the islets; these should be given a wide
berth, and it is not recommended to pass nearer than half a mile to the
north-east 'joast of Hornby island. The entrance of Tribune bay is one mile
west of St. John point ; its eastern shores are bold and cliffy, its western low
and shelving, with shallow water, and reefs extending a considerable distance
off them.

Nash bank, the outermost of these dangers, is a one-fathom rocky
patch, which must be carefully avoided. It extends nearly one mile in
an E. by S., direction from Dunlop point, and its outer edge lies nearly
one mile N.E. by E. from Downes point, the western entrance point,
and 1^ miles S.W. by S. from the largest and outermost of the low islets
off St. John point. There is a passage three-quarters of a mile wide
between it and the eastern side of the bay, but no passage between it and
Dunlop point. Norris rock kept in line with Yellow island, bearing
S.W. 1 S., leads 3 cables south of it, in 14 fathoms; a.id when the centre
of the white sandy beach at the head of the bay bears W.N.W., steer in for
it, which will lead the same distance east of the reef. Yellow island just
open south of Norris rock, bearing S.W. ^ S., leads half a mile south of the
reefs off St. John point.

Anchorage. — With a leading wind it is recommended to pass the
eastern side of the bay within a short half mile, and to steer up for the
white sandy beach as soon as it is open, anchoring with the eastern bluff of
the bay bearing E. by N. ^ N., 3 or 4 cables' lengths from the eastern
shore, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom ; this berth will be three-quarters of a
mile from the white beach at the head, and will enable vessels to leave
conveniently on the approach of a S.E. wind, which they should always
do. Th ;re is anchorage, if desired, in 4 fathoms, much closer in. , •.

CAPE LAZO will be seen after passing the eastern end of Hornby
island, from which it bears W.N.W., distant 16 miles. It is a remarkable
salient point about 250 feet high, flat and grassy on its summit, but wooded
behind, and falling abruptly to the sea in yellow clay cliffs. Although a
bold-looking headland, shoal water extends a considerable distance off,
and it is recommended not to approach its eastern and south-east sides
nearer than 2 miles, as only 4^ fathoms uneven bottom is found at the
distance of 1^ miles. Large boulder stones dry off for half a mile at low
water. When the pitch of the cape bears S.W., it may be approached to
'5 fc,« within one mile in 1 1 or 12 fathoms, and the coast to the westward may

safely be passed at that distance. -.

L 2

164

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[CIIAP. V,

OYSTER BAY.— From cape Lazo the coast trends W.N.W., is
moderatelv high, and slightly indented with boulder beaches, whicii makes
boat landing attended with danger unless in very calm weather. At the
distance of lo miles is Kuhushan point, the southern extreme of a large
but not very deep indentation named Oyster bay ; Shelter point, nearly
4 miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Kuhushan, is its northern extreme.

A reef, which affords considerable protection from N.W. winds, extends
half a mile eastward from Shelter point. The entrance to Discovery
passage (page 200) is 4 miles north-westward from Oyster bay.

Anchorage. — There is fair anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms water
in this bay for vessels waiting wind or tide. A good berth is a little
more than half a mile from the shore with Mitlenatch island bearing
N.E. ^ E., and the highest part of cape Mudge just open of the low
extreme of Shelter point bearing N.W. by N.

CAPE MUDGE is one of those peculiar headlands so frequently
met with on this coast, and resembles Roberts point and cape Lazo, except
that the yellow clay cliff which forms its face is more covered with
vegetation. The cape is ' etween 200 and 300 feet high, flat, and wooded
on its summit, falling to the westward as it enters Discovery passage with
a low boulder point ; the high land of Valdes island appears behind it
from the south-eastward. A boulder beach extends in a semi-circular
form from it to the eastward, and at the distance of 2 miles in this direction
the depth is not more than 5 fathoms. The edge of this shoal water is
fringed with kelp during summer, and is generally well defined by a tidal
line, and sometimes heavy tide rips, which it is recommended not to stand
into. Between cape Mudge and Willow point the tide rips at flood arc
dangerous to small crafts in blowing weather. The western low pail of
cape Mudge should not be brought to bear westward of W.N.W. when
entering or leaving Discovery passage.

Cape Mudge is situated in latitude 49° 59' 35" N., longitude 125"
13' 0" W.

Directions for Georgia strait.— From the coast of Gabriola
island (page 142) abreast Nanaimo, to the opposite shore of the continent,
about Burrard inlet, the width of the strait is 14 miles, the navigation free
from danger, and the strength of the tide between one and 2 knots an
hour. Coming from the southward, mount Shepherd, on the south end
of Texada island, is a very remarkable object, and shows as a solitary
peaked island standing in the middle of the strait ; it is 2,906 feet high,
and is plainly seen in clear weather more than 30 miles off.

Proceeding westward, the long and comparatively low island of Las-
queti rises above the horizon, its singular bare turret-shaped summit,

CHAV. v.]

CAPE MUUGE. — GENERAL DIRECTIONS.

105

1,056 feet high, presenting an unmistakeable feature. The Ballinac,
and smaller islands westward of them, will now soon bo made out. When
abreaat the former, the width of the channel contracts to 4 miles between
them and the small island of Sangster off the south-east end of Lasqueti ;
after which it opens out again to 7 Psiies, and the rather remarkable flat-
topped mount Geoffrey on the weet end of Hornby island will be plainly
soen. The southern coast of Lasqueti is bold, with no dangers off it which
arc not seen, except Seal rocks, which cover at half -tide, and lie 1 ^ miles
west from Sangster island ; off its west end are the small groups of Flat
and Bare islands, but no hidden dangers. False bay, which indents its
west end, is exposed, and not recommended as an anchorage.

The Sisters islets are the next remarkable objects ; they are two
small black rocks 17 feet above high water, S.W. by S. from the west point
of Lasqueti, with a deep-water channel over one mile wide between them
and Flat islands. When abreast the Sisters, the main strait turns
to the N.N.W. between them and Hornby island for 4 miles, and then
resumes its original trend to the W.N.W. : the distance between the
Sisters and St. John point, the low bare east point of Hornby island,
is 5 miles ; the latter, with the small islets off it, should be given a berth
of nearly one mile. The Sisters are bold on all sides, but should not be
approached too close in calm or light winds, as the tide sets straight past
them. Having passed St. John point, the distance to the entrance of the
Discovery passage is 38 miles. The strait maintains a uniform width of
9 miles, until near Mitlenatch island, or for 30 miles, the only slopping places
being Oyster bay (sec page 164), 4 miles from cape Mudge, and Gillies bay
on the west side of Texada island. The shore of Texada island is bold.

Gillies bay, lOj miles N. \ W. from St. John point, and 2 milea
north-west from the Mouatt islets, a small group, which lie nearly one
mile from the shore, is easily recognised by a remarkable white patch
on its northern point, which is seen for many miles, and shows as two
distinct white spots. An anchor may be dropped at one-quarter of a mile
from the beach in 12 fathoms, but it is only a stopping place.

Caution. — When standing to tho westward towards the Denmaa
island shore, Lambert channel should not bo opened out between the
south-east end of the island and Shingle spit (page 162), nor should cape
Lazo be approached nearer than 2 miles. ,j

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

HOWE SOUND,* immediately adjoining Burrard inlet (page 136)
on the north, is an extensive though probably useless sheet of water, the

* See Admiralty charts: — Strait of Georgia, sheet l,No. 579; scale, m« 0*5 of an
inch ; also sheet 2, No, 580 ; scale, m <= Q-.'i of an inch,

■

16G

STRAIT OP GEORGIA.

[ciiAr. V.

general depth being very great, while there arc but few anchorages. It is
almost entirely hemmed in by rugged and precipitoug mountains rising
abruptly from the water's edge to elevations of from 4,000 to 0,000 feet ;
there is no available land for the settlor, and although a river of considerable
size, the Squawmisht, navigable for boats, flows into its head, it leads by no
useful or even practicable route into the interior of the country.

The entrance is between Atkinson point {see page 136), the north point
of Burrard inlet, and Gower point, nearly 12 miles apart. The sound
penetrates the continent in a northerly direction for 20 miles, and although
of such considerable width for nearly 12 miles of its length, yet it is choked
by some large and numerous smaller islands, between which are several ship
passages.

Bowon island, the largest and easternmost, lying at the entrance,
is remarkable, its highest summit rising to 2,479 feet, being round, smooth,
and partially bare, unmistakeably pointing out the entrance from any
direction ; the island is 7 miles in length in a northerly direction, and
more than 3 in width. ' ■ :-. .;

QUEEN CHARLOTTE CHANNEL, the easternmost
passage into Howe sound, is between Bowen island and Atkinson point ;
Passage island, only half a mile long, but very prominent from the south-
ward, stands in the centre of the channel, and on both sides of it is a deep-
water passage ; that to the west 1^ miles in width is the best, the shores
of Bowen island being steep and bold ; some umall rocky islets lie a short
distance off the eastern side of the other, but the channel i» a good one
and one mile wide. A tide-rip is frequently met with off Atkinson point
caused by the meeting of the ebb streams from the sound and Burrard

Snug cove. — At 1| miles northward of Passage island, and ott the
eastern shore, is White Cliff point, and opposite, on the Bowen island shore,
distant 1^ miles, is a double-headed cove. Snug cove, the southernmost of
these, though ntrrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in 9 fathoms,
sheltered from all winds. - ■ :- .».>f#^ ?

Deop cove, the northernmost, is larger, but with a S.E. wind, when
anchorage would be most required, a swell would set in. After passing
White Cliff point the width of the channel increases to 2^ miles, and 3 miles
to the northward is Bowyer island, with a deep ship passage on both sides
of it, that to the w stward being the widest.

Directions. — "Vessels bound to port Graves, which is the principal
anchorage in the sound, should pass westward of Bowyer island between
it and Hood point, the north point of Bowen island. The latter is a rather
remarkable low flat peninsula point, with a small high cliffy island lying

OIIAI'. v.]

HOWE SOUND, 1

167

off it, connected nt low water ; both island and point are bold. From
Hood point, Hope point bears W. J^ S. 3 miles, and after rounding it, a
North course leads into the harbour.

», Bound up the sound by Queen Charlotte channel, a N.N.W. course leads
in mid-channel ; pass eastward ofWhite rock, Centre island, and Anvil
island, through Montagu channel ; the depth of water is 140 fathoms ; the
eastern shore quite bold.

White rock is a small but remarkable islet 3G feet high; some
rocka which cover at high water extend one-quarter of a mile N.N.W. and
S.S.E. from it.

Centre island lies midway between it and the south point of Anvil
island. . , ^, ■ . ... , •

Anvil island, is oval-shaped, and 3 miles long, and its summit.
Leading peak, 2,746 feet high, is very remarkable, resembling the horn of
an anvil pointed upwards. From almost all parts of the strait of Georgia
this peak appears as a most prominent object ; it has been before men-
tioned (pp. 133, 136) as an excellent leading mark to clear the shoals ofl' the
Froser river by being kept just open Aveslward of Passage island, on a
N. by W. I W. bearing. . ^ - ■■•-- - ■''. i,-.v:;;- . «* ..;,.^

Montagu channel, 5 miles above Bowyer island, and between
Anvil island and the eastern shore, is one mile wido and over 100 fathoms
in depth ; passing out of it the sound takes a N. by W. direction for 7
miles to Watts point, when it trends to the north-eastward for a further
distance of 4 miles, terminating in n low delta, through which flows the
Squawmisht river. The sound carries its depth to the head and shoals
from 100 fathoms suddenly to 2 fathoms ; the latter depth is close to
the mud at the head of the sound, which is so soft, that supposing a vessel
to anchor, she would be certain to drag on shore with any wind up the
sound.

' Anchorage may be obtained ofE a waterfall on the eastern side of the
sound in 20 fathoms water, about 2 cables from the shore and one mile
from the entrance of the Squawmisht river, with Watts inner point bearing
S.W.byS.* ,..,.„..,-..... ,„... ...... .,^

COLLINGWOOD CHANNEL, to the westward of Bowen
island, between it and the group of smaller islands which stud the centre of
the sound, is the most direct route to port Graves. At the entrance both
shores are steep and bold ; the channel takes a northerly direction, and
is for 4 miles about one mile wide, the general depth varying from 50 to 100
fathoms. The small islands forming the western side have no dangers
that are not visible except Passage rock.

* Lieut. Evelyn Lc Marchant, H.M.S. Wild Swan, 1885.

168

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[ouAr. V.

A rock which uncovers nt very low spring tides lies IJ miles S.S.W.
from Hutt island, and ooe mile S.E. by E. ^ E. from Cotton point, KeatH
island.*

WorlOOmbe island is the outermost of the small islands, half
a mile long, east and west, and very narrow.

Passage rock, which lies almost midway between Worlcombe and
Pnsley islands, and covers at half-tide, lies 3^ cables W.N.W. from the
eastern poini. of Worlcombe island, and when working in or ont, vessels should
not Bttind 80 far to the westward, between Worlcombe and Pasloy islands,
as to shut in the western points of White and Ragged islands behind the
low east point of Pasley island.

W^hite island, li miles northward from Worlcombe, is small and
round, with some white quartz veins showing through the foliage.

Ragged island la a short distance farther to the north-west, and
has four or five very remarkable bare white rocks lying off its eastern end.
Having passed Ragged island, the western side of the channel is formed by
Keats island.

Keats island i8 3 miles long, moderately high, with a bare cliffy
summit near its centre. From Cotton point, its eastern extreme, the
entrance to port Graves bears N. by E. ^ E. distant 3 miles.

BABFLEUR PASSAGE lies to the westward of the central
group of small islands, between them and Keats island; it is a safe ship
channel, but not quite so wide as Collingwood channel.

Working in, it is better not to approach nearer than one-quarter of a
mile to Popham island, and the two smaller ones north of it, which form
the eastern side of the passage.

At the distance of 2^ miles this passage leads into Collingwood channel.
The passages between the small islands are not recommended to be used
unless by coasting vessels.

A rock, on which the sea breaks at low water, extends 1^ cables into
the channel westward from the second of these islands, and bears North
the same distance from the north point of Popham island ; otherwise there
are no dangers which are not visible.

SHOAL CH ANNEL,t the westernmost entrance to Howe sound,
is between Keats island and the mainland of Gower point. It is convenient
for vessels coming from the westward, and leads to Plumper cove, a snug
anchorage on the north-west side of Keats island ; Gower point, the

* Mr. Joho Devereux.

t See Plan of Shoul channel and Plumper cove on Admiralty chart, No. 560 ;

scale, m = 3 inches.

0IIA1>. v.]

IIOVVJ!: 80UNU.

169

Hoiith-wcfit cxtrmiiu ol tlu; ctmnnol, i.s not very iciiiiirkabk, l)ijt when
Hppronuhing it a large l)ouIder rock will bo hooii at itH extremo, and a
Bitnilar one on the shore one-quarter of a mile to the wustward of it; a
conspicuous cono 900 feet high also rises immediately over the coast, 3
miles within the ])oint on the went side of the channel, and can ho seen a
long distance off.

The south |)oint of Keats island, which forms the eastern point of
entrance to the channel, has, lying close off it. Home island, a small hut
prominent and thickly-wooded island. From a short distance northward
from this island a bar of sand and shingle extends quite across the chann(d to
the steep cliffs of the mainland ; the depth of water on it varies from 7 to 18
feet ; the least water is on a spit extending 2^ cables from Keats island, it
then deepens to 2^ fathoms, but at half a cable's length farther to the west-
ward there is a shoal spot of 1^ fathoms, and there is also a sinilar depth
at 1^ cables S. ^ E. from Steep ClifT point ; vessels therefore, when entering
Shoal channel, should keep rather over to the mainland side about 2 cables'
length from it, which may be increased when Home island bears S.E. byE.

Observation point in line with the north end of South Shelter island, or
just sho^ iig to the westward of it, bearing N.N.E. J E., leads over the
bar in 2^ fathoms water, which is here only 1^ cables across, but the pas-
sage with this depth is very narrow. Observation point kept just shut in
.."th South point of North Shelter island bearing N.N.E. -J E., and when
Home island bears S.E. by E. kept well open of it, leads over the bar in
not less than 2 fathoms; but vessels drawing more than 8 feet water arc
recommended not to attempt Shoal channel at low water.

The width of the bar in the centre is not over one-quarter of a mile ;
it does not shoal very suddenly from outside, and a vessel might anchor
in 9 or 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, with Home island bearing E. ^ S.

Two dangerous rocks which uncover at very low water spring tides
arc reported as lying 3 cables N.N.E. from Steep Cliff point.*

PLUMPER COVE.t — Immediately after crossing the btir of
Shoal channel the water deepens to 20 fathoms, anvi two small islets,
partially wooded, and almost joined at low water, will be seen one mile to tho
N.N.E. ; between them and the shore of Keats island is Plumper cove,
which is perfectly sheltered from all winds, as, however hard it may be
blowing outside, it is generally a calm here. Both shores of the channel
are steep, and if wishing to enter, a vessel should pass round the north end
of the islets.

* Mr. John Devereux.

f See Plan of Shoal channel and Plumper cove on Admiralty chart, No. 585 ; scale,
m = 3 inches.

170

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

Anchorage. — Anchor in 8 fathoms in the centre of the cove. There is
room to lie at single anchor, but a vessel of any size is recommended to
moor, dropping her outer anchor in 10 fathoms when the north end of
the islets bear West, and running up the centre of the cove, drop the inacr
one in 6 fathoms ; there is only room for one large vessel, but several small
ones could find shelter.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in Plumper cove at noon ;
springs rise 12 feet.

ThoruboroUgh channel is a continuation of Shoal channel,
and leads up the western side of the sound, between Gambler island and
the main. Its direction after passing Plumper cove is N.N."W and at the
distance of 6 miles is Woolridge island, rather on the eastern shore ; the
wiclor channel lies westward of this island, but th'^re is over 100 fathoms
of water through Latona passage to the eastward of it, and a width of
one-quarter of a, mile. Passing Woolridge island, the ann turns to the
north-eastward, and northward of Anvil island leads to the head of the
sound ; the depth of water is very great in every part, and there is no
anchorage above.

Gambler island, lying in the centre of the sound, immediately
northward of Bowen island, is almost square shaped, and 6 miles in extent
either way. On its western side rise two very remarkable cone-shaped
mountains over 3,000 feet in elevation ; the southern face of the island
is indented by three very deep bays or inlets, but only in the easternmost
s convenient anchorage found. Close oS the south-west point of the island
aic the Twins, two small islets ; they are the only part of its coast which
may not bo approached very close.

PORT GRAVES,* the easternmost of the three bays on the south
side of Gambler island, is the principal anchorage in Howe sound. It is
about 8 miles from the entrance, and may be reached with great facility by
either of the channels already described ; its entrance will not, however*
be very apparent to a stranger until closing Hope point, which forms its
eastern side.

The direction of the port, as also of the two deep bays westward of it, is
north, and it runs more than 1^ miles in that direction, the width not quite
half a mile, ,.. '-.e.-,,..' . r^ ,,--)!,. „,^

.■l^'^i.'-n.i.

Hutt island, scarcely half a mile long, but very high and remarkable,
lies close off the north-west side of Bowen island, and is a good guide to
the port when entering by either of the western channels ; from it Hope
point bears N. by W. 1^ miles ; keep the Hope point shore on board on
the starboai'd hand.

■5^;

* See Flan of port Graves on Adoiiralty chart, No. 585 ; sculc, m = 3 inches.

wmm

OUAP. v.]

HOWE SOUNr — TEXA.DA ISLAND.

171

Tides. — I^ ia high water, full and change, in port Graves at noou ;
springs rise 12 foet. ^^..^ ,.:{, „. . „, ,.,,;., .. ,, • - , .; >

"T^irections. — On the western shore, three-quarters of a mile inside the
entrance, a shingle spit extends out for a short distance, which should bo
given a berth, as shoal water extends half a cable's length off it ; when past
this spit there is anchorage anywhere in 10 fathoms, but half a mile or more
inside it, in 7 fathoms, is the best berth. Vessels entering by Shoal
channel, and bound for port Graves, after passing Plumper cove should
steer N.E. until near Hope point, and the harbour open, in order not to
mistake either of the western bays for it. ,.

The COAST from Gower point, the western entrance of Howe
soundj trends W. ^ S. for 18 miles to the entrance of Malaspina strait, and
is free from danger. White islet, a bare rock 51 feet high, lies 1^ miles
from the shore, 6 miles westward from Gower point, and is remarkable,
always showing very while ; there is deep water close to it and inside it.

Trail bay. — At 4 miles N.W. from White islet the coast recedes
and forms Trail bay. There is a very marked djop in the land at the head
of this bay, across which, by a portage of half a mile, the natives carry their
canoes into Seecheli arm, one of the many arms of Jervis inlet.

Anchorage may bo obtained off the village in Trail bay, abreast a
bluff in the north-east corner, in about 15 fathoms. The Indians (Seechclt)
are under the care of the B,.C. mission, and their chapel is a conspicuous
object from seaward.* . . ^ ,.^ ,, , ,.^ ,,^ ^,, „...,,„., _,,. , , . ,^j, ,„. ,,

Trail islets, fonr in number, lie a little more than half a milo off
the western end of this bay, and if necessary small vessels may drop an
anchor inside them in 12 or 13 fathoms water.

TEXADA ISLAND, lying parallel with and on the eastern sido
of the strait of Georgiii, is 27 miles in length, with an average width of
scarcely 4 miles. Throughout its whole length stretches a ridge of rugged
trap mountains, wooderl generally to their summits ; at the southern end
mount Shepherd reaches a height of 2,906 feet; towards the northern
end the range decreases in elevation, but there is scarcely an acre of land
fit for cultivation throughout the island. Its shores are steep and bold on
all sides, and the land rises abruptly, except at the north extreme. On the
north side, 3 miles from Marshall point, there is a boat cove.

Gillies bay, the only anchorage, and that merely a stopping place, is
on the south-west fide (page 1G5) ; good limestone is found at the north end
of the island. .™^~_„^.>. — ..,..^.,_.„^^,-^..^. ,„..,.... „..„,, ,

* Lieutenant C. B. Nodham, R.N,, H.M.S. liocket, 1882.

172

STUAIT OF GEORGIA.

[CHAi*. V.

Upwood point, the south extreme of Texada island, is rugged and
precipitous ; stunted pines grow between the crevices of the bare trap
rock ; the land behind more thickly wooded. Almost immediately over it
rises mount Dick, a very remarkable hump-shaped hill, 1,136 feet high,
and 3 miles inland is mount Shepherd, the highest summit of the islanc^
A rock which covers lies 2 cabies' lengths off the poinl.

LASQUETI ISLAND lies parallel with Texada at its south-
east end, and is separated from it by a channel about one mile wide. It is
9 miles long, with an average width of over 2 miles ; mount Tremeton,
a singular turret-shaped summit, 1,056 feet high, rising nearly in its centre.
On its southern side are several boat coves.

Tucker bay,* on the north side of Lasqueti, and equidistant from
either end, is a very fair anchorage. Entering from the westward it is
4 miles from Bare island, and will be readily kno^vn by a group of small
wooded islands which form its eastern side ; its western point is sloping
and somewhat remarkable, partially bare of trees. The water shoals
rather suddenly from 30 to 16 fathoms.

Anchorage. — The anchorage is in 14 fathoms, with the outermost
and westernmost of the small islands bearing N.N.E. and the west point
of the bay W. by N. ^ N., which will be within one-quarter of a mile of the
shore. With a strong N.W. wind and flood tide, the bay, though safe,
would not be a comfortable anchorage ; from the eastward, sailing vessels
would find some diflBculty in reaching it in consequence of the prevailing
N.W. winds and the narrowness of the channel at that end.

Small vessels may anchor in the south-east corner, inside the small
island on the south shore in 6 or 7 fathoms water, sheltered from almost
any wind.f

Tides. — It is high Avater, full and change, in Tucker bay at 7b. 30m. ;
springs rise 16 feet.

Sangster island, half a mile long, lies one mile S.S.W. from Young
point, the enstern extreme of Lasqueti. There is a deep passage of 70
fathoms betweo" the two, but a rocky ledge with shoal v,"atcr on it extends
off the western point of Sangster island. ; ' -^y ' > .j :

Seal rocks, which cover at half-tide, lie a little more than one mile
W. J^ N. from the western point of Sangster island, and it is not recom-
mended to pass between the islanu and the rocks.

Jenkins island lies 3 miles itward from Sangster, and close to
the south shore of Lasqueti.

5 r

♦ See plan of Tucker bay on Admiralty chart, No. 579 ; scale, m = 3 inches,
t Mr. John Devereux.

BHi

CHAP, v.] LASQUETI ISLAND. — MALASPINA STRAIT.

173

Sea Egg rocks, always uncovered, lie 3 cables' lengths oflf the west
end of Jenkins island.

False bay, at 3 miles westward from Jenkins island, and the same
distance N.E. by E from the Sisters islets, is a deep bight but which is
not recommended as an anchorage, though small vessels would find shelter
in its north-west corner in 7 fathoms.

STEVENS PASSAGE, between the Sisters islets and Lasqueti,
is upwards of one mile wide, and perfectly safe and clear. Flat islunds,
on its eastern side, should be given a berth of one-quarter of a mile, as
should also Bare islands, a small group lying off the north-west end of
Lasqueti.

SABINE CHANNEL, between Texatla and Lasqueti islands,
is a good ship passage 9 miles long, in nearly an east and west direction,
with very deep water ; it is 3 miles wide at the wesfern end, but several
high conical islands lying off the north-east side of Lasqueti contract the
width at the eastern end, in some parts to three-quarters of a mile.
There is also a narrow but deep channel, Bull passage, to the southward
of these islands, by keeping close along the Lasqueti shore.

Tb.e tides through Sabine chaune.l set at the rate of 2 knots an hour,
the flood running to the westward, the ebb to the eastward.

MALASPINA STRAIT is a wide navigable channel, separating
Texada island from the mainland. Its general direction is W.]J^W. for
30 miles, when it again enters the strait of Georgia between Marshall
point (the north-west extreme of Texada) and Harwood island; its
southern entrance lies between Upwood point (the south-east extreme of
Texada) and the western of the Thormanby islands, and is 4 miles in
width. The Texada shore is bold, and almost straight for its whole
length, fronted by narrow shingle or boulder beaches.

THORMANBY ISLANDS, two in number, about 500 feet high,
almost joined and upwards of 2 miles in extent, are 18 miles from Gower
point and form the south-east entrance point of Malaspina strait. Lying
close to the mainland, these islands appear as part of it, terminating at
their north-west point in a sleep clay cliff, off which, at low water, dries n
boulder point. Shoal water extends from this point in a north-westerly
direction for about 4 cables, and a bank with not more than 5 fathoms
water on it borders the northern side of the western island for a distance
of from 3 cables to one mile.

From the north point of the eastern island, Tattenham ledge extends half
a mile in a north-west direction ; this ledge uncovers at the inner part, and
has 4 fathoms water on the outer.

174

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[0HA1>. V.

\»

Welcome pass, separating Thormanby islands from the main, is a
deep but narrow cliannel, about one mile in length. This passage has not
been well sounded, and as sunken rocks exist in its east entrance, it should
be used with great caution.* .-,■■ •. .fs -, ; ,/ , .i ^%

Buccaneer bay,t formed by the junction of the 'two Thormanby
islands, on their north-west side, extends in a south-east direction for over
one mile, and affords good and sheltered anchorage at its head in 15
fathoms.

Caution must be observed when entering, as shoal water extends for
fully half a mile from the northern shore of both islands on both sides of
the entrance. Tattenham ledge, on the east side of the entrance, will be
avoided by keeping the outer of the Surry islands (lying off the east shore
within the harbour) in line with Wolf point and the centre of the beach
at the head of the bay, bearing S.S.E. J E.

Secret cove. — The eastern side of the strait from Thormanby islands
to Francis point, a distance of 6 miles, is somewhat broken. At one mile
northward of the entrance to Buccaneer bay is the entrance to Secret cove,
formed between Ttirnagain island and the shore of the mainland. The
channel in, between point George (the south-east end of Turnagain island)
and Entrance island to the eastward, is half a cable wide with depths of from
7 to 1 1 fathoms in it. Half a cable S.W. by S. from the west end of Entrance
island is a rocky patch which covers at three-quarters flood ; it will be
cleared by keeping White rock (2 feet high) inside the harbour on its west
shore, just open of the north-west shore of Entrance island, bearing
N.N.E. I E.

Anchorage. — When past Entrance island, anchorage may be taken
up as convenient in 7 to 9 fathoms, midway between that island and Echo
island.

Rocky patch. — From Secret cove the coast, which trends to the north-
west, is bold-to for 4 miles, at which distance a rocky patch of considerable
extent lies one mile SE. by E. from Francis point, and extends nearly the
same distance parallel to the shore. The least water found on this patch
was 7 fathoms, but less may probably exist. Several small islets lie north
of the patch, between it and the shore.

Bargain harbour. — To the northward of these islets is the entrance
to this small harbour with depths of 5 and 6 fathoms in it. The entrance

* A shoal of some extent is reported to exist in the eastern entrance to Welcome
pass, contracting the passage to about 3 cables. It lies N. 10° W. 2^ cables from the
small island on the east side of the bay, N. 76° E. from the north-east point of Thor-
manby islands, and S. 28" E. 4 cables from the western island in the eastern entrance
to Welcome pass: — Navigating Lieut. A. Miller R.N., H.M.S. Amethyst, 1876.

t See Plan of Buccaneer bay on Admiralty chart, No. 579 ; scale, m = 8 inches.

imiiiiiHlil

onAP. v.] BUCCANEER BAY. — SECRET COVE. — JERVI8 INLET.

176

lies between the Whitestone islands (lying about 3 cables south-east from
Francis point) and the islets lying off the shore to the eastward, the largest
of which are Flat (the southern) and Green islets. By keeping in mid-
channel the harbour may be safely entered. ■ -•• ' "

The head of Bargain harbour communicates with Pender harbour by a
narrow passage, which is available for boats at high water. ^ i, .

JERVIS INLET is one of the most considerable of those numerous
and remarkable arms of the sea which indent the continent oi" America from
the parallel of Fuca strait as far as lat. 60° N. ; it extends by winding
reaches in a northerly direction for more than 40 miles, while its width
rarely exceeds 1^ miles, and in most places is even less.

Neither from a commercial point of view, as a refuge for shipping, or as a
means of communication with the interior of the country, does it appear
likely ever to occupy any very prominent place, as it is hemmed in on all
sides by mountains of the most rugged and stupendous character, rising
from its almost perpendicular shores to heights of 5,000 to 8,000 feet. The
hardy pine, which flourishes where no other tree can find soil to sustain
life, holds but a feeble and uncertain tenure here ; and it is not uncommon
to see whole mountain sides denuded by the blasts of winter, or the still
more certain destruction of the avalanche which accompanies the thaw of
summer. Strikingly grand and magnificent, there is a solemnity in the
silence and utter desolation which prevail here during the months of winter,
not a native, nor a living creature to disturb the solitude ; and though in
summer a few miserable Indians may occasionally be met with, and the
reverberating echo of a hundred cataracts disturb the silence, yet tho
desolation remains, and seems inseparable from a scene which nature never
intended as the abode of man. The depths below almost rival the height
of the mountain summits ; bottom is rarely reached under 200 fathoms,
even close to the shore, and frequently at much greater depths j there are
a few spots where vessels may drop an anchor, but they are either open and
exposed, with an inconvenient depth of water, or from the narrowness of
their entrance are only adapted to steanaers or coasting vessels.

The entrance of the inlet is between Francis point and Scotch Fir
point, which are 12 miles apart in a W.N.W. direction. Nelson island
lies immediately in the centre, and divides it into two channels, the western-
most being the principal one. Both channels can be made out from Upwood
point, tho south-east extreme of Texada island, which lies directly in
front, and serves as a barrier to westerly winds, to which the inlet would
otherwise be much exposed.

AgEmenmOIl OliaDIlOl, the eastern entrance to Jervis inlet, is
9 miles N. by W. from Upwood point ; after running between Nelson

176

STRAIT OP GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

island and the main in a general northerly direction for 9 miles, it joins the
main channel of the inlet ; its average width is little m-re than half a mile,
the tides run from one to 3 knots, the depth of water varies from 50 to 100
fathoms and it affords no anchorage. The southern entrance is encumbered
by a group of small islands, the centre and largest of which, Pearson
island, is one-quarter of a mile in extent, wooded, and 256 feet high ; from
it the entrance bears N.N.W. Westward from Pearson a little more than
one-quarter of a mile are theChannel islets, two or three small isletsjoined by
reefs ; and eastward from it at the same distance is Martin island, also very
small. Thus there are three passages into Agamemnon channel ; the
westernmost, between point Fearney, the west point of the channel, and the
Channel islets ; the middle, between Channel islets and Pearson island ; and
the easternmost, between the latter and Martin island. The passages are
about the same width (over one-quarter of a mile), and have deep water,
20 fathoms being the least found in the middle channel. There is also a
passage eastward of Martin island.

NilO rock. — Vesrels entering by the western passage, or coming from
the westward along the shore of Nelson island, must avoid the Nile rock,
which covers at quarter flood; it lies one mile S.W. by W. ^ W. from
Fearney point, and the same distance west from the largest Channel islet, is
steep all round, and is situated half a mile from the nearest point of Nelson
island, off which a reef extends ; unless the rock is visible it is recommended
to pass outside or southward of it. The southern Channel islet in line with
the north end of Pearson island leads on to the rock.

FENDER HARBOUR* is the only anchorage deserving the
name with a moderate depth of water to be found in the neighbourhood of
Jervis inlet, but its entrance is so encumbered by islands as to render it
difficult of access to any but steam or coasting vessels ; it immediately
adjoins the Agamemnon channel on the south, and lies three-quarters of a
mile E.N.E. from Pearson island, indenting the coast for 3 miles in the
same direction.

The entrance to Pender harbour may be approached by three passages
between the islands lying off the southern entrance of Agamemnon channel.
When coming from Jervis inlet by the above-named channel, the passage
•'^etween Channel islets and Pearson island to the south-west, and Norman
l-Mnt to the north-east is the most convenient, but coming from any other
direction it would be better to use either the one between Pearson island
and Channel islets, or that between the former island and Martin island ;
the latter is to be preferred.

* See plan of Pender harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 58S ; scale, m = 3 inches.

OHAP. v.]

PENDER HAEBOra. — JBRVIS INLET.

177

Williams and Charles islands lie immediately across the
entrance, forming three channels ; that to the northward between Williams
island and the main (Henry point), the north entrance of Pender harbom'
is not one cable in width, but it is the best and has a depth o9. 20 fathoms.

Entering the harbour between Williams and Charles islands the channel
is only 100 yards in width, with 7 fathoms water, and a rock which covers at
three-quarters flood lies more than half a cable N.N.W. from the east point
of the latter island.

Skardon islands, two in number, lie 2^ cables' lengths eastward from
Williams island ; pass on either side of them and steer up the harbour, which
is over one-quarter of a mile in width, and the depth will soon decrease to 12
fathoms. One mile within the entrance a peninsula extends to the south
from the northern shore ; pass between its southern point and Mary island,
a little over one cable apart, with a depth of 12 fathoms.

AncllOragO. — Anchor in Gerrans bay, one-quarter of a mile to
the southward of the peninsula, in 6 or 7 fathoms; there is also good
anchorage in Garden bay, just eastward of the peninsula, and abreast an
Indian village, in 5 or 6 fathoms. The latter is the more suitable for a
large ship. Pender harbour extends three-quarters of a mile above Garden
bay by a very nan( w passage with only 2 fathoms in it, and then opens
out with a depth of 7 fathoms. To the eastward of this narrow passage
is Gun Boat bay, where small vessels may anchor in 7 fathoms. The space
in this anchorage is somewhat confined, as is also the case with both
Gerrans and Garden bays.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Pender harbour at 6h. Om. ;
springs rise 12 to 14 feet. .■ . .

The Western entrance to JERVIS INLET is between

Alexander point, the south extreme of Hardy island, on the east, and Scotch
Fir point on the west. The points are not remarkable, but the opening
is easily made out ; it ia nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short
distance a N.N.W. direction. Scotch Fir point is rocky, and has two small
islets lying close to the westward of it, which, like the point itself, are
covered with stunted pir^s. Hardy island lies close to and is nearly
connected with Nelson island ; Blind bay between them is useless, and its
entrance choked by small islands.

Thunder bay, formed on the western side 1^ miles above Scotch
Fir point, is one of the few places in Jervis inlet where a vessel may drop
an anchor, and being near the entrance is likely to prove convenient. The
bay is about half a mile deep, with a sandy beach at its head, oflf which,
at the distance of 2 cables, 17 fathoms water will be found ; immediately
A 17498. H

178

STEAIT OP GEOEGIA.

( '/' •

[chap. v.

outside it there are 30 fathoms, and the lead then drops suddenly to a
great depth. ' " - -

One laiile within Scotch Fir p'^' at Jervis inlet takes a N.E. by E. direction
for 12 miles, when it forms a junction with Agamemnon channel at the
northern end of Nelson island. Just before reaching this point, Hotham
sound, a wide opening, trends to the N.N.W., terminating at the distance
of 7 miles in a double-headed bay ; the water in every pai't of it is too deep
for anchorage.

NELSON ISLAND, in the middle of the entrance to Jervis inlet,
is 10 miles long in a northerly direction, and about 4 or 5 miles wide ;
its shores are much broken and indented by several bays, in none of which,
however, can anchorage be obtained in consequence of the great depth.
The island is mountainous, the summits ranging from 500 to 1,500 feet
in height. Cape Cockburn, its south point, is of white granite, about 80 or
90 feet high, covered with a few dwarf pines ; a rock lies one cable south
from it.

CaptEin island, north of Nelson island, and separated fi'om it by a
narrow passage, is about one mile in extent, rocky, and steep-to.

One Tree islet, off the east side of the inlet, 1 J miles noith-east from
Captain island, is small, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very
conspicuous ; its height is about oO feet. A rock awash at low water lies
one cable off its east side ; but the islet may be approached close on the
west side; just within it, on the east shore, is a bight where a coasting
vessel may drop an anchor.

PRINCE of WALES REACH.— Dark cove, on the west

side of Jervis inlet, within the Sydney islets, is 2 miles north from Captain
island, and 12 miles from the entrance. The cove is only about 2 cables in
extent, but affords a snug anchorage in 15 fathoms, and is the only place in
the inlet deserving of that name ; a vessel of considerable size could moor
within it. There is a clear deep passage one cable wide into this cove on
both sides of Sydney islets.

Vancouver bay, on the east side of the inlet, 19 miles from the en-
trance, is about half a mile in extent, and of square shape. From its head,
which is low, a considerable valley extends to the eastward, but the shores
on both sides are craggy and precipitous, and the bay is too deep to afford
anchorage, there being 60 fathoms within one cable's distance of the bank,
which extends a short distance from its head.

PRINCESS ROTAL REACH.— Deserted bay, also on

the east side of the inlet, at the termination of Princess Boyal reach, and
about 37 miles from the entrance, is small, and affords an indifferent
anchorage in its eastern part near the head in about 16 fathoms, exposed

CHAP. V.J

JERVIS INLET.

179

to west and south-westerly winds. A valley extends from the head of
the bay to the north-east, through which a trail runs to the Lilooet lakes
on the Fraaer river, and is much frequented by the natives in the summer
season.

QUEENS REACH.— The head of Jervis inlet terminates in a
patch of low swampy land through which flow some small streams, and a
bank dries off about one cable ; it does not afford any anchorage, there being
25 fathoms within half a cable of the outer edge of the bank. A remarkable
peak, mount Victoria, rises 2 miles north of the water's edge to a height
of 7,452 feet, and is a very conspicuous object on approaching the head of
the inlet.

At the head of Jervis inlet there is a valley by which the Indians go lo
Clahoose (Desolation sound) in two days.

Princess Louisa inlet, on the east side of jervis inlet, 5 miles
below the head, is narrow, and about 4 miles long in an E.N.E. direction ;
it is connected by a narrow gorge to the main inlet, which at low tide
becomes almost a waterfall, rendering it impossible for boats to enter except
at high water ; inside, like Jervis inlet, it is deep, and the mountains on both
sides rise to 7,000 ond 8,000 feet.

SEECHELT ARM, the entrance to which is on the east side of
Jervis inlet, one mile north of Agamemnon channel, is an extensive
arm of the sea, penetrating the land for 17 miles in a south-easterly
direction towards the strait of Georgia, and only separated from the
latter by a low neck of land, 1,190 yards wide, forming an extensive
mountainous peninsula to the westward, called Seechelt peninsula. On
the east side of the arm, at a distance of 7 and 11 miles from its entrance,
are two smaller branches. Narrows arm and Salmon arm, extending to the
north-eastward for upwards of 10 miles.

Rapids. — The arm at 3 miles within its entrance contracts in breadth
to less than one-third of a mile, and is partially choked up with rocks and
small islands, which preventing in a great measure the free ingress and
egress of the tide, cause most furious, and dangerous rapids, the roar of
which may be heard for several miles. These rapids prevent any vessel,
or even boat, from entering the arm, except for a short time after high
and lew water, when the tide slackens for a very limited period ; it would,
however, be hazardous for any vessel, except a very small one, to attempt
to enter at any time, although there is a passage with from 4 to 7 fathoms
between the islands and the south or peninsula shore.

The shores of the arm, except near its south part or head, are high
and rocky, and it is a useless sheet of water, except as regards fishing, as in
the summer season the natives catch great quantities of salmon there.

u 2

■■^

180

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. V

Tides. — It is high water at full and chanj^e in Jervis inlet at 6 hours,
the rise and fall being about 14 feet; within the Seechelt arna the rise
and fall seldom exceeds 6 or 7 feet.

The tidal streams are, except near the entrance of Seechelt arm, weak
and irregular and influenced by winds.

HARWOOD ISLAND, off the west entrance to Malaspina
strait, 1 ^ miles from the continental shore and about 3 miles north-west from
point Marshall, is 2^ miles long in a northerly direction, 1^ miles wide,
from 150 to 200 feet high, flat, and thickly wooded. It is bordered by a
sandy beach, and at its north point is a low grassy spit. There is deep
water between the island and the shore.

Rebecca islet, lying midway between point Mai'shall and Horwood
island, is of small extent, and 5 feet above high water.

Bare islet, one mile W.S.W. from the south end of Harwood island,
is a bare, yellow, cliffy rock, about 2 cables in extent, and 30 feet above
high water.

The COAST. — Westward from Jervis inlet, the north shore of Malas-
pina strait takes a westerly direction for 1 1 miles, terminating at Grief
point ; for a considerable distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sandy
beach ; there are no off-lying dangers that are not seen.

From Grief point the north or continental shore of the strait of Georgia
trends W.N.W. for nearly 20 miles almost straight to Sarah point, the
south-east entrance point of Desolation sound. Throughout the whole
distance the coast is low, not rising to more than 500 or 600 feet, and but
slightly indented. There is a fresh-water stream of considerable size
4 miles west of Grief point communicating, at about 2 miles from the shore,
with a lake which extends some 40 miles northward towards the head of
Toba inlet.

Claamen. — At one mile farther westward a vessel may anchor in fine
•weather for night or tide at a distance of 3 or 4 cables off shore near the
coast abreast Harwood island in 12 to 13 fathoms. Anchorage must be
taken up with caution as flats extend a considerable distance off shore.
When anchoring do not shut in the north shore of Savary island.* ,

Navigating along this coast between Grief and Sarah points, a vessel
will avoid danger by keeping not more than half a mile off shore as far
as Hurtado point, and passing northward of Harwood and Savary islands.
When past Hurtado point, a vessel ought to steer more to the westward,
and pass southward or westward of the White, Double, and Powell islets.

SAVARY ISLAND, nearly 6 miles W.N.W. from Harwood island
•and one mile from the continental shore, is 4 miles long in a W.S.W. direc-
tion, and less than one mile wide. A sandy beach strewed with huge bouldei-s

, . ♦ Lieutenant C. S. Nedham, R.N., H.M.S Rochet, 1882.

CHAP, v.] HARWOOD ISLAND.— SA VARY ISLAND, &C. 181

surrounds it, and extends a considerable distance off its north and west
sides, which should not be approached nearer than half a mile; these
boulders extend a greater distance from the south side of the island, which
side, therefore, should not be closed nearer than three-quarters of a mile.
The height of the island varies from 80 to 120 feet, and the soutli side is
faced by some remarkable white sandy cliffs, very conspicuous from the
south-east ; its east extreme is u granite cliff, steep-to. There are severa
clear grassy patches on the island, but the soil is poor and sandy. A
sandy bar or ledge, of one to 2 fathoms water, extends from its west
point to Hernando island.

HurtadO point, on the main abreast Savary island, ia about 250 feet
high, bold and cliffy. There are 37 fathoms water in mid-channel between
it and the island.

Mystery rock, 2f miles S.E. ^ E. from the east end of Savary
island, is a patch which uncovers 4 feet at low water. From the rock
shoal patches of from one to 3 fathoms extend towards the cast end of
Savary island. Vessels therefore in navigating this locality should observe
great caution when going between Savary and Harwood islands, but by
keeping within half a mile of the continental shore, and also by keeping
Grief point open to the northward of the north extreme of Harwood island,
this danger will be avoided. Vessels working up or down the strait of
Georgia, when standing to the eastward between Harwood and Savary
islands sliould not shut in the south end of Hernando island with the south
end of Savary island.

RAGGED ISLANDS, lying close to and parallel with the conti-
nental shore, are a rocky group of small islands 2^ miles long and 3 cables
wide ; their south-east part is about 2^ miles north-west from Hurtado
point, and some rocks extend 4 cables from their north-west extreme.

White islet, one mile to the south-west from Ragged islands, is a very
remarkable, bare, white granite, rock, about 70 feet high. A rock which
uncovers at low water lies one cable's length east from it, but in the middle
of the passage between the islet and Ragged islands is a depth of 37"
fathoms.

Double islets, half a mile west from the north-west part of the Ragged
group, are small, and about 90 feet high, with a single tree on each of
their summits. * ' ■ ,< ; .

* Powell islets, one mile north-west from Double islets, are two in
number, small, about 90 feet high, and covered with a few stunted bushes
and trees ; the westernmost islet is steep-to on its north and west sides.

Sarah point, at 20 miles W.N.W. of Maiaspina strait, may be
called the north-west entrance point of the strait of Georgia. It is a

182

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[OHAP. V.

rounded, rocky point, sloping gradutilly to tho sea from a height of about
750 feet, at a short distance within it. Tho coast here turns sharply
round to tho eastward into Malaspina inlet.

Sarah point is situated in latitude 50° 3' 40" N,, longitude 124" 52' 0" W.

Mitlenatch island lies 16 miles N.W. from cape Lazo, is half a
mile in extent, 200 feet high, bare and peaked. Between it and the
Vancouver island shore, distant nearly G miles, is the fair channel to cape
JNIudge and Discovery passage.

HERNANDO ISLAND, 2 miles west from Savary, and 3 miles
N.N.E. from Mitlenatch ishmd, is about 2 miles in extent, flat, thickly
wooded, and from 120 to 170 feet high. A ledge composed of sand and
huge boulders extends two-thirds of a mile from its south-east point,
and there is only a depth of lj[ fathoms in the channel between it and
Savary island. From the west side some rocks extend off upwards of

2 cables in many places, and it should not be approached nearer than half
a mih) in passing.

Stag bay, on the north side of Hernando, affords anchorage in 12 to
15 fithoms at a distance of about 2 cables' lengths off shore, and is useful as
a stopping place for vessels bound to Bute inlet or Desolation sound. There
is a small fresh-water stream in the east part of the bay.

Tongue point, the north-west exti'eme of Hernando and of Stag bay,
is a low sharp sandy point or spit, covered with a few trees, steep-to, and
may be approached to 50 yards.

Anchorage. — Vessels should anchor at about three-quarters of a
mile from this point, with the east part of Twins islands bearing N. by W.

Baker passage, to the northward of Hernflndo if?lai>d and leading
from the strait of Georgia to the entrance of Desolai ion r<ound, is about

3 miles long in a north-easterly direction, and ea.i uile wide in the
narrowest part, being bounded on the north side by Cortes and Twins
islands. The only danger is at its north-west entrance point, off which a
boulder ledge extends upwards of 3 cables' lengths in a south-easterly
direction. j? ■

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Baker passage at 6h. Cm. ;

springs rise 12 to 14 feet. , . ,; :

Twins islands, about l^ miles north from Hernando, are two rocky
islands connected by a sandy beach at low water, covering an extent
2 miles long in a north-westerly direction, and about one mile broad;
their south shore is steep-to and may be approached to within a distance
of one cable. The northernmost Twin is 490 feet high, rising to an
almost bare summit in the centre ; the southern one is about 300 feet, and

CHAP, v.] KERNANDO ISLAND. — LEWIS CHANNEL. 183

on both of tliem are numerous indications of iron and copper ores. Nono
but small craft should go north of thuso islauds. Some small islets lie a
short distance off their north side.

Centre rock, which covers at ono-(iuarter flood, is in the middle of
the passage between Twins and Cortes islands.

To avoid the ledge off Reef point, (the south extreme of Cortes island),
when entering Baker passoge from the strait of Georgia, bring Tongue
point, the north-west extreme of Hernando island, on a N.E. bearing, and
steer for it, passing about one cable's length olT, then keep midway between
Hernando and the Twins.

Blind creek, on the east side of Cortes island, 1^ miles north from
Twins islands, is a basin of about 4 cables in extent, with from 7 to 9
fathoms water ; there is, however, in the entrance, a rock which covers
at one quarter floo<l, ren'lering the place useless as an anchorage.

Three islets, lying half a mile off the entrance of Blind creek, are
three bare white rocks about 60 feet high, almost connected at low water ;
there is a depth of 27 fathoms at a distance of 2 cables eastward from them.

LEWIS CHANNEL, off the entrances to Desolation sound
between Cortes and Redonda islands,^ to the westward of the latter, runs
nearly straight upwards of 12 miles in a north-westerly direction, and
varies in breadth from one mile to 3 cables, being widest at the south-east
part ; its shores are generally rocky, low in the south pnrt, but rising
gradually to the north-west, steep-to and everywhere free from danger.

Turn point, the south-west entrance point of this channel and the
east extreme of Cortes island, is about 100 feet high, rocky, and covered
with a few stunted trees; the coast turns suddenly from north-east to
north-west around it, and close in shore to the northward of the point are
two islands forming a small boat cove.

Tides. — In Lewis channel the tides are weak and irregular, scldoui
exceeding 2 knots, and are influenced by the winds.

SQUIRREL COVE,* on the west side of Lewis channel, 4J^ miles
from Turn point, is a small land-locked basin of 6 to 7 fathoms water,
with room for a vessel of considerable size to lie at single anchor. It is
entered by a narrow passage about 130 feet wide, with 5 fathoms water,
on the west side of the island (Protection island) in the entrance, which
protects the cove from the southward. The shores are moderately high,
and though much broken, very picturesque and fertile in appearance. To
the northward of, and connected at high water with the cove, is a long
narrow lagoon, stretching to the north-west nearly across Cortes island.

* See plan of Squirrel cove on Admiralty chart. No. 580 ; scale, m =• 3 miles. It is
fiigh water, full and change, in Squirrel core at 5h. Cm. ; springs rise 12 feet.

184

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

Squirri 1 cove can only be entered by steamers, or sailing vessels with a
fair wind, and the chart is the best guide. There are no dangers whatever
within or near it.

Boulder poiut, the south-east entrance point, is low, and may be
easily known by a large boulder on its west side ; a rock, which covers^
lies nearly one cable south from it, but the point may be rounded at a
distance of 2 cables.

Northward from Squirrel cove the west side of Lewis channel becomes
more rocky, and gradually increases in height ; it takes a northerly direc-
tion for one mile to Juuv^tion point, and then trends to the north-west for
7 miles, the channel ending at Bullock bluff, the north extreme of Corte;.
island. At 3^ miles from Junction point the depths in the channel shoal
to 27 and 30 fathoms, and a vessel may anchor in about ] 8 fathoms at one
cable's distance from the west shore.*

MALASFINA INLET, H miles E.N.E. from Sarah point, and
1^ miles E. by S. from Kinghorn island, penetrates the continent 8 miles in
a S.E. by E. ^ E. direction, forming with the strait of Georgia a peninsula
about 2 miles wide ; it has one good harbour, and several arms, at the head
of some of which there is anchorage. The inlet at its entrance between
Georgina point and Zephine head, the west point of Gifford peninsula, is 4
cables wide, which is its general width, until abreast Scott point on the
northern side, a distance of 2 miles, when it is contracted to 2 cables ; this
portion of the inlet, however, is so studded with islands and rocks as ,to
considerably narrow the navigable channel. The depths in it vary from 30
fathoms to 6 fathoms. At Scott point the inlet for three-quarters of a mile
takes an easterly direction, and then between Hillingdon point and the north
end of Coode peninsula widens out to one mile and again turns to the
south-eastward for 2\ miles, and, under the nanic of Oke over arm, continues
in the same direction for a farther distance of 2^ miles, the width gradually
decreasing to 3^ cables. To the eastward of Coode penin&ula the water
becomes very deep, but at the beginning of Oke over arm it shoals to
40 fathoms, and gradually \o 5 and 6 fathoms at the distance of nearly
2 cables from its head.

Freke ancllOragO, in 12 or 14 fathoms water, is at the head of
Oke over arm, about 3 cables from the edge of the flat that extends 2 cables
from the head of the arm, just above Lucy rock, which lies very close to
the south-western shore.

Josephine islands, about three-quarters of a mile within the
entrance of Malaspina inlet, with u passage on both sides, are two In number
and almost joining each other ; the north-western one is very small, the other

Vancouver's ships anchored here in 1792 while exploring this part of the coast.

CHAP, v.] MALASPINA INLET. 185

is about 1^ cables long in the direction of the inlet, and not more than half
a cable wide. The passage between them and the south' western shore
is one cable in width, and that to the north-eastward 1^ cables, but as
the Cavendish rock lies nearly in the centre of the south-eastern entrance
of tue latter, the former, in which the depth of water is not less than
6 fathoms, is to be preferred.

Cavendish rock, awash and marked by kelp, lies 1^ cables E. by N.
irom the south-east end of Josephine islands, and is a danger that must be
avoided when passing eastward of those islands.

Cross islet, distant 1^ cables from the northern shore of the inlet, and
2| cables E.S.E. from Josephine islands, lies on the nonhern side of the
channel ; it is small, not more than half a cable in extent.

Rosetta rock, tlie principal danger in entering Malaspina inlet, is
awash and lies nearly one cable S. by W. from Cross islet. The south-
western point of Josephine islands in line with the extreme of the land near
Ze»<hine head leads nearly on the rock.

Thorp island lies close to the southern shore of the inlet 2^ cables
S. by E. ^ E. from Josephine islands, a rock awash lies about half a cable
south-eastward from it.

Neville islet is very small and lies close to the northern shore nearly
half a mile E.S.E. from Cross islet.

Cochrane islands, a group of several small islets extending 3|^ cables
in a noith-west and south-east direction, lie 2 cables from the south shore of
the inlet, and southward from Neville islet. These islands should not be
approached too closely, and there is a patch with 3 fathoms water on it
about one cable from their western end.

Lion rock, surrounde-' by kelp, lies 2 cables S.E. from Selina point,
the south extreme of Gifford peninsula, and 2 cables eastward of Coode
peninsula.

Trevenon bay, one of the arms of Malaspina inlet and 2^ miles
from its entrance, indents the land and runs parallel to the strait of Georgia
1 in a S.E. by E. j^ E. direction for 1| miles, and at its head is only separated

by a narrow neck of laud 3 cables broad froiu Penrose bay, which branches
off at the junction of Malaspina inlet with Oke overarm, and runs in a
N.W. by W. direction for half a mile, forming Coode peninsula to the
eastward. Off the south-east extre nity of Coode peninsula, distant one cable,
is Boundary rock The entrance to Trevencn bay is half a mile south-east
from Scott point ; the average width of the bay is K- ss than a quarter of a
mile, the depth of water varying from 25 fathom;^ to 4 fathoms at 2 cables
from tiie nead. Off the north-west entrancr point of the bay lies the
small island of AJton, not a cable distant from the shore.

186

STRAIT OP GEORGIA.

[OHAP. V.

Lancelot arm branches off at Selina point sharply to the N. by W.
and extends in that direction for 3 miles ; its head is only divided from
Portage cove (Desolation sound) by a low neck of land not much more than
half a cable across, forming Gifford peninsula, triangular in shape, rising
abruptly over Portage cove to a height of 1,000 feet, and having part of the
northern tihore of Malaspina inlet for its base, where it is not more than
half the helghc. The arm maintains au average width of 6 cables until
near its head, where it la only 2^ cablet wide. In the southern part of
Lancelot arm the water is very deep, but at ibout three-quarters of a mile
from Selina point until half a mile from the head the depths vary from 30
to 37 fathoms, and then shoal to 17 fathoms and gradually to 1 1 fatjioms.

Isabel bay, about l^ miles from Selina point, on the west shore of
Lancelot arm, is about 2 cables in extent and affords anchorage for coasters
in from 10 to 12 fathoms water. Mary and Polly islands lie in the
entrance.

Thors cove, on the eastern shore of Lancelot arm, 1^ miles north of
Hillingdon point, the east entrance point of the arm, extends in an E.N.E.
direction for 3 cables with from 12 to 5 falhoms water. A coaster might
drop an anchor in this cove in about 10 fathoms. At one cable's length o£E
Sebastian point, the north entrance point of Thors cove, is Thynne island.

TheodOSia arm has its entrance at about one mile from the Lead of
Lancelot arm, and extends in a N.E. direction for 1| miles with a moderate
depth of water and a width of 3 cables, but the entrance to it is so very
narrow and choked with rocks, as to render it for all practical purposes
useless.

Anf^orage. — Vessels of moderate size may anchor in Wootton bay,
p'- oxiti I't Me from ihe head of Lancelot arm in 12 fathoms water.

(Ifac- liarbour, on the northern side of Maiaspina inlet, about 2^
miles i.om Zephine head, has its entrance between Scott and Moss pohits,
which are about one cable apart in an E.N.E. direction. The liarbour
extends about one mile N. by E. \ E., and is divided at the head by a
jutting point into Barlands and Carberry bays. Two cables within the
entrance points a small island lies nearly in the middle of the channel ; there
is a passage on both sides of it, but the western one is only suitab'-^ for
boats. At 4 cables above the island the harbotir for a short distance
contracts to half a cable, and then opens out to the width of 2^ cables.

Directions. — Having entered Malaspina inlet midway between
Georgina point and Zephine head, keep over towards Holland point until
the channel on the southern side of Josephine islands opens out, and ;hen
steer boldly through it with Cochrane islands nearly ahoad (the course will
be S.E. by E. ^ E.). Keep the extreme of the land near Zephine head about

mil

oHAF.v.] KINGHORN ISLAND. — DESOLATION SOUND.

187

i )

midway between the south side of Josephine islands and the south shore, if
anything rather nearer the latter, which will lead between Rosetta rock
and the rock oflf Thorp island ; when Neville islet bears E. f N. steer
towards it for a short distance, to avoid the 3-fathom patch off Cochrane
islands, until the north-west Cochrane island bear S.S.E., when alter course
to round Scott point at the distance of one cable and steer up the harbour
mid-channel, passing to the eastward of the small island lying 2 cables
within the entrance. A shoal patch on which, however, the least water
is 4 fathoms, lies 2 cables south-east from Scott point.

AncllOragO. — The best anchorage is in about 10 fatnoras water, 1^
cables to the northward of the small island, abreast Ka kae kae village.

TidOS. — The tides at the entrance of Malaspina inlet run about 2 knots
It is high water at full and change at 5h. Om. ; springs rise 12 feet, and
neaps 9 feet.

KINGHORN TSTjAND, in the south entrance to Desolation
sound, is about 2 miles in cu-''umference, and from 400 to 500 feet high ;
it is clifPy and steep-to on the south-wost side.

Station island, about IJ cables iii extent and 270 feet high, lies 2 J
cables N.N.E. ft'om the north point of Kinghoru island ; two small islets
lie between.

Mink island, lying on the south side of Desolation sound, and nearly
midway between Redonda island and the main, is three-quarters of a mile
long, one-third of a mile wide, and 700 feet high ; its shores are clear of
daii/^r. A short distance from its north-east end are Broken islands.

'lao west side of Redonda island, north-west of Kinghorn, forms the
>*H- X i '. f iiorc of Lewis channel, and is sterile, rocky, and steep-to, rising
ir. tl/' northern part to craggy mountains upwards of 3,000 feet high.
A:- ■ distuuco of 6 miles from the south entrance to Lewis channel the
Teak*.u,e arm penetrates Redonda island 4 miles in an E.N.E. direction, but
is too deep to afford anchorage, except for small craft near its head, and
close to the south side of entrance.

DESOLATION SOUND, between the south-east shore of the
western Redonda island and Mink island, has too great a depth for
anchorage.

At the distance of half a mile north-east from Mink island ia Otter
; I -.nd, only separated from the main by a very narrow passage.

Deep bay. — Bold head, the western entrance point of Deep bay, lies
one mile East from the south point of Otter island ; three small islets lie
S.W. by S. from it, the outer one. Grey islet, being distant 4 cables. The
entrance to Deep bay ia about 3 cables wide, which width it maintains to
its head, a distance of nearly one mile, with a general northerly direction.

188

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

|[CHAT. V,

The anchorage space is confined, and but small vesselo can anchor in acovj
at its north-west corner in 10 fathoms. When entering from the northwc rd
pass between Otter and Broken islands and westward of Grey islet ; from
the westward the channel is clear. The entrance of the bay is 4|
miles N.E. ^ N. from Zephine head, the north-west extreme of GifPord
peninsula.

To the northward of Otter island there is group of small islands lying
in pairs, Morgan and Melville islands being to the southward, and Mary
and Eveleigh islands to the northward. Melville and Mary are the western-
most, the former, which is 450 feet^^'^h, being the largest of the group, and
the latter the smallest. At half a l ', '"' by N. from the south end of
Morgan island there is a rock which ib _, wash at high water.

FridOAUX haven,* situated 3 miles north-eastward from Mink island
in the N.E. part of Desolation sound, affords good and sheltered anchorage.
The entrance between the east shore of Eveleigh island and the Oriel
rocks is only 85 yards wide, but not less than 5^ fathoms was obtained
by H.M.S. Scout when entering in 1872. The anchorage is in the western
part of the haven in 7 to 9 fathoms. Melanie cove, the eastern part of the
haven, is entered by a narrow channel about half a cable wide, opening out
inside to one cable in width with 4 to 6 fathoms water.

HOMPRAY and WADDINGTON channels —North-

eastward from Desolation sound is Homfray channel, 15 miles in length,
leading to Toba inlet, and westward through Piyce channel to Bute inlet.
Homfray channel appears clear of dangers, with deep water throughout.
Waddington channel leading from Desolation sound north-westward
between the two Redonda islands, is about one mile wide at its southern
entrance, gradually narrowing to about one cable at its northern.

At three-quarters of a mile south of Marylebone point (the south-west
entrance point of Waddington channel) there is a remarkable white patch.

Pendril sound, — At .3 miles north-west from Horace point, the
south-eastern enti'ance point of Waddington channel, Pendril sound
branches off to the northward ; it extends 6 miles with an average width of
three-quarters of a milCj and nearly divides the east Redonda island into
two parts ; it has no anchoragf..

Walsh COVe,t between the Gorges islands and the western shore of
Waddington channel, affords anchorage in 12 to 14 fathoms water in mid-
channel.

♦ See plan of Frideaux haven on Admiralty Chart, No. 580 ; scale, w ■= 2"0 inches).
It is high •wp^er, full and change, in Prideaux haven, at 5h. Cm, ; springs rise 1 2 feet,
t See plan of Walsh cove on Admiralty Chart, No. 580 ; scale, «i ■= 2-0 inches.

CHAP, v.]

SUTIL CHANNEL. — CORTES ISLAND.

189

TOBA INLET extends in a general north-easterly direction for
18 miles from the northern end of Homfray channel. At its entrance,
lie Channel and Double islands, each 400 feet high, leaving a channel
of over one mile in width between them ; the inlet is here nearly 2 miles
wide, gradually narrowing to one mile wide at its head. A fair berth 18
in about 20 fathoms in the north-west corner of the head of the inlet oif
the flats. Care must be observed when coming to an anchor as the water
shoals rapidly alongside the flats, the water being of a milky colour affords
no guide as to its depth. There is a small village (Clahoose Indians) on
the banks of the eastern of the two streams which flow into the head of
the inlet.

SUTIL CHANNEL. — This extensive channel, which leads from
the western part of strait of Georgia to the entrances of Toba and Bute
inlets, is bounded on the east side by Cortes, and on the west by Valdes
and Read islands. It is 15 miles long in a northerly direction, and at its
entrance to the strait of Georgia is 6 miles wide, decreasing to one mile in
the northern part. The soundings in mid-channel are deep, though there
are several dangers off both shores near the southern parts, but northward
of Mary island it is quite clear.

There are several good anchorages on both shores, two of which, Drew
harbour (on the west) and Carrington bay on the east shore of the channel,
are easy of access to all vessels, and useful as stopping places.

The tides in the Sutll channel are weak, seldom exceeding 2 knots ;
the flood stream sets to the northward from the strait of Georgia; it is high
water, full and change, at 6 hours, and the rise and fall is 12 feet.

CORTES ISLAND. — The west side of this island, which forms
the eastern boundary ot Sutil channel, is for the most part low, and in-
dented by several bays and creeks, in many of which good anchorage may
be found.

Reef point, its south extreme, ha^ a ledge composed of sand and
boulders extending three-quarters of a mile from it which covers at three-
quarters flood ; off its outer edge are 6 fathoms. The north side of
Texada island well open south ofSavaryand Hernando islands bearing
E. I S., will lead a quarter of a mile south of the ledge, and also south ot
the Boulder reef (page 191).*

From Reef point the west coast of Cortes island trends in a northerly
direction for 3^ miles, is flat, from 80 to 150 feet high, and bordered by
a sandy beach extending upwards of 2 cables' lengths off in some parts ;
it afterwards turns in a westerly direction, becoming rocky and broken,
with a few islets a short distance off it in some places.

* See view B. on Admiralty chart, No. 680.

190

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

GOHGE HARBOUR,* the entrance to which is on the west
side of Cortes island, 4^ miles N.N.W. from Reef point, is 2 miles long
in a westerly direction, and one mile broad at the widest part, affording
good anchorage in 9 to 12 fathoms. The entrance to it is through a
narrow gorge nearly half a mile long, bounded on both sides by steep
cliffs about 200 feet high, and is less than 40 yards wide in some places,
with 6 fathoms in the shoalest part ; the tide sets through it at from 3 to 4
knots. At the inner end of the Gorge is Tide is'et, 20 feet high, lyjng nearly
in the middle of the channel ; the passage is to the westward of it. There
are several small islands inside the harbour, and the shores are rocky,
varying in height from 1 00 to 300 feet.

Guide islets, just south of the entrance, are useful in indicating it,
being two small, bare, yellow-topped islets about 20 feet high, and con-
spicuous from the south-east. They are steep-to, and there is a clear
passage on either side of them into Gorge harbour.

Bee islets, within the harbour, 3 cables north-west from the entrance,
are two small bare rocks about one cable apart, and 6 feet above high
water. They may be approached close to, and the best anchorage is from
one to 2 cables' lengths west from them.

Brown" island, in the middle of the harbour, about 3 cables N. by E.
from the entrance, is nearly one mile in circumference, and thickly timbered.
It is about 150 feet high, the shores are rocky, and may be approached
tc within one cable's distance.

Ring island, at about one cable's length east from Brown, and 70
feet high, is wooded, but much smaller ; the New rock, which covers at
one-quarter flood, lies nearly one cable east from it, and should be avoided.
There are two small islets, Stove and Pill, each 30 feet high and 3 cables'
lengths apart, lying close to the shore in the northern part of the harbour.
Neck islet, 20 feet high, lies off a small cove in the south-east corner of the
harbour. New rock is situated midway between the north ends of Neck
islet and King island.

Anchorage. — The best and most convenient anchorage in Gorge
harbour is in the west part, about half a mile from the entrance, in 12
fathoms water.

There is also good anchorage between Ring island and the north-east
part of harbour in from 7 to 9 fathoms.

Directions. — Entering Gorge harbour, which can only be done
with a favourable tide, unless in a steamer, after passing Guide islets, steer
boldly up the gorge or entrance, and take care, on nearing its north part,

* See plan of Gorge harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 680, scale, m = 3 iuchei.

CHAF. v.]

GORGE HARBOUR. — MARY ISLAND.

191

to pass between Tide islet and the west shore, the passage east of the
islet being shoal, when haul to the north-west, pass on either side of the
Bee islets, and anchor in from 10 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, one or
2 cables' lengths to the westward from them. Proceeding to the eastern
part, after passing Tide islet, keep to the northward, and roimding the west
side of Brown island at one cable's distance, haul to the eastward, and
passing along the north shore of it and Ring island at half a cable distance,
anchor midway between the latter and the north-east end of the harbour in
from 7 to 10 fathoms. If requiring to water, this anchorage is more con-
venient ; but to avoid the New rock vessels should not go to the southward
of Ring or Brown islands.

MARIT ISLAND, on the east side of Sutil channel about 3 miles
N.W. by W. ^ W. from Reef point, is of a round shape, about 6 miles in
circumference, and from 90 to 120 feet high; its shores are bordered by
a sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders.

Boulder reef, extending upwards of one mile in a south-south-east
direction from its south point, is a ledge about 2 cables wide, which covers
at high water.

When passing west of Mary island, keep the north side of Texada island
open south of Savary and Hernando islands bearing E. | S. until Camp
island opens west of Mary island N.N. W., which will clear the Boulder
reef on the south and west sides.*

Shark spit. — From the north part of Mary island a sand-spit
extends in a northerly direction to within one cable's length of Cortes
island. There are 8 fathoms in the passage between the spit end and Cortes
island.

Camp island, off the west extreme of Cortes island and 7 miles
from Reef point, is of small extent, 100 to 200 feet high, and wooded.

Plunger pass, between Camp and Cortes islands, is about 3 cables
wide, deep, and clear of danger.

Centre islet, two cable/ lengths west from Camp island, is bare, and
about 12 feet above high witer; at this spot Sutil channel turns from
N.N.W. to North, and becomes narrower.

CABRINGTON BAY, on the north-west side of Cortes, about
3 miles from Centre islet, is one mile deep in an easterly direction, about
3 cables' lengths wide, and affords anchorage at a distance of 3 cables*
lengths from its head in from 7 to 11 fathoms water. Along its north side
are some small islets, and a rock which uncovers at low water, but if intend-
ing to anchor in the bay, keep at about one cable's distance from the

* See views A. and B. on Admiraltj o'lart, No. 680.

192

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. v.

south shore, which will clear all danger. At the head of the bay is a large
salt-water lagoon. > • ■ ■ . '^•

VON DONOP CREEK, the entrance of which is 5^ miles from
Centre islet, is long and narrow, penetrating Cortes iulaud in a south-
easterly direction for upwards of 3 miles. There is good anchorage in
5 to 6 fathoms near its head, but the entrance being only 30 yards wide
in some places, with 3^ fathoms in one spot, a vessel should not use it aa
a stopping place, as Carrington bay is much more convenient and easy of
access.

One mile north from Von Donop creek the coast of Cortes, which is
rocky and steep-to, rising abruptly to 1,141 feet, turns north-west for 3 miles
to Bullock bluflP, at the termination of the Sutil channel and at its junction
with Calm and Lewis channels and Deer passage.

VALDES ISLAND. — From cape Mudge, the south extreme of
Valdes island and the south-west entrance point of Sutil channel {see
page 164), a bank extends in a south-easterly direction for nearly 2 miles,
and until well inside the channel the cape should not be approached within
that distance. The coast of Valdes turns sharply round the cape to the
N.N.W., trending in a straight direction for 5^ miles, and bordered the
whole distance by a beach extending off upwards of one cable's length in
many parts. The land is flat, and heavily timbered, but appears very
fertile. .:

DREW HARBOUR,* on the east side of Valdes island, 6 miles
from cape Mudge, is about one mile deep, 3 to 4 cables wide, and rendered
perfectly secure and land-locked by Eebecca spit, a narrow strip of laud
6 to 8 feet high and open wooded, which forms its eastern boundary ; its
shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach.

Anchorage. — The anchorage, in 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a
distance of half a mile from its head, is the best in Sutil channel.

Heriot islet, lying to the north-west of the entrance, is about 250
feat high, rocky, of small extent, and separated from Valdes by a narrow
boat pass. In the bay to the southward of it is fair anchorage, and fresh water
may be procured ; the depths, however, in the entrance to it are irregular.

Directions. — if intending to anchor in Drew harbour a vessel may
round the north part of Rebecca spit at a distance of about one cable,
proceed up the harbour in mid-channel, and anchor at about half a mile from
its heatl in 15 to 9 fathoms. The east side of Rebecca spit should not be
approached within 2 cables. ;.,,.; ,: ...

♦ See plan of Drew harbour on Admiralty chart, JNo. 580 j ecale, =3 inches.

OHAF. v.]

VALDBS ISLAND. — READ ISLAND.

193

■^

HYACINTHS BAY, on Valdes island, 1^ miles north-west of
Drew harbour, is of small extent, with from 16 to 20 fathoms water, but
aifords no anchorage ; a small rock 4 feet above high water lies in the
middle of the entrance. i>, . . , . .,

' J A.

Open bay, half a mile north from Hyacinthe bay, and separated from
it by a rocky point, is half a mile in extent, with from 10 to 12 fathoms
water, but as the bottom is rocky, and the bay open to the south-east, a
vessel should not anchor there.

Breton islets, 40 feet high and extending upwards of one mile in a
south-easterly direction from the north part of Open bay, are small, and
from the outer one, which is wooded, a reef extends 3 cables' lengths,
covering at one-quarter flood. The passage between these islets and
Rebecca spit is deep and clear of danger.

HOSKYN INLET, formed between Read and Valdes islands, on
the east side of the latter, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction, with an
average breadth of two-thirds of a mile ; the shores are broken and rocky,
with some small islands oif the south entrance and along the east side, and
there is no anchorage within it, except for small craft. This inlet contracts
at its northern end to a very narrow passage leading into Drew pass, but as
it is choked with rocks and dries at low water, connecting Read and Valdes
islands, the only exit is by the southern entrance.

Village bay, on the west side of this inlet, just within the entrance,
is about one mile deep and one-third of a mile wide, with from 12 to 24
fathoms water, but aifords no good anchorage ; there is a large village at its
head.

READ ISLAND, bordering the west side of the norlh-west part of
Sutil channel, is 9 miles long in a northerly direction, and from one to 3
miles broad ; its southern part is low, but rises gradually to the northward
to 1,608 feet ; the shores are rocky, steep-to, and much indented, especially
on the east side near the middle. Viner point, its south extreme, 7 miles
north from cape Mudge is bare, and about 40 feet above high water.

BurdwOOd bay, on the east side of Read island, 2 miles from Viner
point, is about one mile wide, 2 to 3 cables deep, and contains several
small islets. There are 12 fathoms water at a short distance off shore,
in its north and south parts, where a vessel may stop in fine weather,
but the bay is open to the south and east. \

Evans bay, the next inlet on the east side of Read island, to the

northward of Burdwood bay, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction,

1^ miles wide at the entrance, and branches off in two narrow arms near

its head ; its shores are rocky and much broken, and there is no anchorage

A 17498. N

194

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[fHAP. V.

except iu Bird cove, on the west shore, where small craft may find shelter.
Frederic point, the north-east point of entrance to the bay, is bold, and
may be approached to within one cable. ^

Hill island, just outside the entrance to Evans bay, is of small extent,
but conspicuous ; its summit being 490 feet high. The shores are rocky,
and may be approached to within one-quarter of a mile.

FENN ISLANDS, four in number, near the middle of the Sutil
channel, to the northward of Evans bay, cover an extent about 1^ miles long
and one mUo wide ; they are rocky, covered with stunted trees, and their
greatest elevation is about 270 feet. A vessel should not venture among
them, but there is a clear passage on their east and west sides.

A rock awash lies 80 yards N. 55° E. from the north point of the
eastern island.

The east side of Bead island to the northward of the Penn islands is
rocky, but may be approached anywhere to within one-quarter of a mile.

Directions. — Entering the Sutil channel from the strait of Georgia, ,
pass within half a mile on either side of Mitlenatch island, and steer
N.W. by W. or N.W. ^ W. for the entrance, taking care to keep the
north side of Texada island open south of Hernando and Savary islands
hearing E. | S., until Camp island opens west of Mary island bearing N.N.W.,
to clear the reefs extending afF the south points of Cortes and Mary
islands (pp. 189, 191) ; when clear of the latter danger haul more to the
northward, steering about N.N.W. or N.W. by N., and passing about one-
quarter of a mile westward of Centre islet, steer up mid-channel, eastward
of the Penn islands.

If entering this channel in thick weather, and the above marks be not
seen, when past Mitlenatch island keep it on a S.E. by E. bearing, and
steer N.W. by W. till the south part of Mary island bears N.E. by N. ; a
vessel will then be clear of the Boulder reef.

A vessel may beat through this channel, but till past the dangers in the
south part it would not be prudent to near the west sides of Cortes and
Mary islands within 1^ miles when standing to the eastward; and when
standing towards cape Mudge do not approach it within 2 miles, or bring
Mitlenatch to the eastward of E. by S. ^ S., until the cape bears S.W.,
when a vessel may stand to within half a mile of the Valdes shore. If
intending to anchor, Drew harbour and Can'ington bay are easy of access
for any class of vessel, and are but little out of the regular track.

CALM CHANNEL, to the north of Lewis and Sutil channels,
leading from them to Bute inlet, is 9 miles long in a N.W. by W.
direction, and about one mile broad ; its shores rise abruptly to a great
height, are everywhere clear of danger, and the tides weak, except in
the north-west part.

OIIAP. v.]

CALM CHANNEL. — BUTE INLET.

195

«k

RendOZVOUS islands,* three in number, which lie on its west aide
near the south part, cover an extent 3 miles long in a W.N.W, direction,
and about half a mile wide ; the eastern island is 350 feet, the middle 300
feet, and the western 601 feet high. . .

Drew pass is a deep passage between the Rendezvous islands and the
north part of Read island ; and between the middle and easternmost islands
is a small spot with from 7 to 15 fathoms water, where a small crafl may
anchor.

Calm channel is not well adapted for any vessels except steamers, as
there is generally but little wind, and no anchorage.

Raza island, lying at the northern entrance to Sutil channel, is of a
rectangular shape, 3 miles long north and south, and 2 miles wide east
and west, and 3,020 feet high ; a portion of its south side, which forms the
northern side of Calm channel, is cliffy.

North passage. — On the west side of Raza island is North passage,
communicating with Ramsay arm which indents the continent in a
northerly direction for 7 miles and has deep water throughout.

Deer passage, between ]laza and Redonda islands, 4 miles long and
\\ miles wide, connects Pryce channel with Sutil channel. Both North and
Deer passages are clear of danger.

Stuart island, at the northern termination of Calm channel, and in
the entrance of Bute inlet, is about 4 miles in extent, of an undulating
surface, rising in some parts to 800 and 1,000 feet. Its shores are
rocky and clear of danger; the tides set strongly round its north and west
sides, but there is a clear passage into Bute inlet to the eastward of it,
nearly one mile wide, in which very little tidal stream is felt.

BUTE INLET. — This extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates
the continent for nearly 40 miles in a winding course to the northward,
presents many similar features to Jervis inlet (page 175), the n ^^ral
breadth varying from one to two miles, and the shores on bcL' "-Mes
rising abruptly and almost precipitously in many places to stupendous
mountains from 5,000 to 8,000 feet high, whose summits are generally
covered with snow all the year round. At the head are two extensive
valleys, one penetrating to the north-west and the other to the south-east,
from which flow streams ; the one to the westward, called by the natives
Homalko river, is navigable for a long distance by boats and stern-wheel
steamers of light draught. Off these rivers some sand-banks extend a
short distance, affording indifferent anchorages near their outer edges ; but
the soundings everywhere else in the inlet are very deep. The water

* It is high water, full and change, at the BencTezTOUS islands at 7h. Om.; springs rise
14 feet.

N 2

'^m f ^ p;i I I IV ^ I

196

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[chap. t.

for somn >1istancn from the head is nearly fresh, and of a milky white
appearance ; in the summer months there is a constant outset, varying in
strength from one to 2 knots.

Arran rapidSi at the entrance to Bute inlet on the west side, between
Stuart island and the continont, are one cable wide in the narrowest
part. The tides rush through with great strength (the flood from the
westward), and it is very hazardous for a vessel to go through.

Orford bayi on the east side of the inlet, 19 miles from the entrance, is
of small extent, with 35 fathoms water close to the edge of the bank, which
extends from the head. A small vessel may use it as a stopping place.

WADDINGTON HARBOUR, at the head of the inlet, being
in fact its termination, is about 2 miles in extent, and affords very
indifferent anchorage off the edge of the banks,* extending from the
Homtilko and Southgate rivers and off its east shore. Except in the
vicinity of the rivers the land rises almost precipitously to 4,000 and
5,000 feet, is most sterile and rocky, covered with stunted pines. The
best anchorage is near the north part, about half a mile off shore, in
15 fathoms, but it is exposed to the south-west, and strong winds from
this quarter would make the anchorage unpleasant, if not unsafe.f

Homalko ri/er enters Waddington harbour on the west side, and is
a stream of considerable extent, winding to the north-west through a largo
valley. At the entrance is a bar with only one to 2 feet water over it at
low tide, but within, the water deepens to one and 3 fathoms ; the breadth
varies from 50 to 200 yards, and the river is navigable for boats and small
steamers several miles. The shores for 2 miles from the entrance are
low and swampy, covered with willows, but farther up on the western
side the land rises 4 or 5 feet above high water, and appears very fertile,
though heavily timbered ; the opposite side is steep and rocky ; in summer
months the current runs upwards of 5 knots out of the river.

From the sources of the Homalko river there is an easy route to the gold-
mining regions in the far north of British Columbia. ■ ■ ''

Directions. — in navigating Bute inlet but few directions are
required, as the points may be everywhere approached to within a distance
of half a cable, and, if intending to anchor in Waddington harbour, when
nearing it, steer for its north part, anchoring at about three-QMarters of a
mile off the head in 15 fathoms, and about 3 cables' lengths from (he high

♦ These banks are coustantly changing. — Navigating Lieutenant E. Clapp, II.M.S.
Scout, 1872.

j- See plan of Waddington harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 580 ; scale, m = 2 inches.
Jt ishigh vater, full and change, in Waddington harbour at 6h. Cm. ; springs rise 13 feet.

CRAP, v.]

BTJTB INLET. — CAllDERO CHANNEL.

197

northern shore; the anchor should be dropped immediately 15 fathoms are
obtained, as the bottom shoals rapidly.

Sailing vessels entering or leaving the inlet should keep close to the
eastern shoie, or the ebb tide may take them through the Arran rapids to
the westward.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Calm channel at 7h. Om.,
springs rise 14 feet. In Bute inlet it is high water at 6h. Om., and the
rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet.

CARDBRO CHANNEL, communicating by Modales channel with
Discovery passage and Johnstone strait, winds in a general east and west
direction for 19 miles, with an average width of one mile at the eastern
part, but only half a mile in the western. It is bounded on the north by the
mainland, and on the south by Valdes and Thurlow i lands ; its shores, which
are much indented, are generally rocky and mountainous, and the channel is
studded with numerous small islands, and it is nc without dangers, the
the water in most parts, however, being very deep.

Stuart island lies across the eastern entrance of Cardero channel, almost
blocking it, but leaving narrow passages both to the northward and south-
ward ; the former, Arran rapids, owing to its narrowness and the strength
of the tide, which rushes through it at the rate of from 7 to 9 knots, is not
navigable except at great risk ; the latter, half a mile wide, is also not
recommended, as at its northern end the tide runs directly at right angles
to a vessel's course at the rate of from 6 to 7 knots. At 2^ miles within
the entrance Dent island causes further obstruction by contracting the
channel to 3 cables, which narrow passage is full of dangerous rapids,
overfalls, and whirlpools, with the probability of the existence of sunken
rocks ; therefore it cannot be considered safe or prudent for vessels to
enter or leave Cardero channel by its eastern entrance, and they are
advised to carefully avoid that part of it which is to the eastward of Dent
island.

From Stuart island Cardero channel runs 7 miles W. by N. where
Frederick arm branches off to the northward and Nodales channel
to the southward. After running a further distance of 3 miles in the same
direction, it turns (at its. junction with Philipps arm) to the S.W. by S. for
5^ miles, and then W.S.W. for 4 miles, where it joins Loughborough inlet
and Chancellor channel, the former branching off to the northwaru and
the latter continuing a westerly course for 8 miles, where it unites with
Johnstone strait. ,<•

Anchorages. — Cardero channel has but few places that afford
anchorage. Bickley bay on the north side of Thurlow island, and nearly
opposite to Philipps arm, is about 3 cables in extent with from 16 to

198

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

[OHAF. r.

21 fathoms water, and near its head 6 fathoms. Mayne passage 3^- miles
eastward of Loughborough inlet, and also on the north side of Thurlow
island, affords shelter in from 9 to 15 fathoms water. This passage branches
off to the southward and westward, probably communicating with Johnstone
strait, but it has only been partially examined. Vessels may also bring
up in 15 fathoms in Crawford anchorage inside the Erasmus islands on
the north shore of Thurlow island, 1^ miles N.E. by E. from Mayne
passage.

Tides. — The tides in Cardero channel run at the rate of from one to 2
knots in the western part, increasing to 3 and 4 knots to the eastward of
Nodales channel; between Dent island and the eastern, entrance to the
inlet they run with great rapidity, especially in the narrow passage between
Dent and Valdes islands which, as before observed, is full of whirlpools
and overfalls. ; •: >, ,e - • .

Caution. — When bound from Bute inlet to the north-westward, vessels
should proceed to the eastward of Valdes and Read islands by the Calm
and Sutil channels, round cape Mudge, and through Discovery passage,
and not attempt to shorten the distance by using Cardero channel.

Frederick SLTTOI branches off to the northward from Cardero
channel, opposite Hall point (the north point of Valdes island), and extends
about 3 miles in that direction, shoaling gradually at its head towards
a stream which here enters the inlet flowing from a sheet of water
extending some distance to the northward, and known as the Estero basin.
The flats usually found extending a considerable distance from the shore
at the head of most of the numerous inlets or fiordd, and which are
invariably steep-to, only extend a very short distance off the shore at
the head of Frederick arm, and are not so steep-to, and it, therefore,
appears to afford a better anchorage than any of the other inlets on the
mainland, being only exposed to the southward. Anchorage may be had
at a reasonable distance from the shore.*

Fhilipps arm, lying immediately westward of Frederick arm,
extends about 5 miles in a N.N.E. direction, shoaling gradually off the
flats at its head. >. : : ' . => ai

LOUGHBOROUGH INLET penetrates the continent for 17
miles in a northerly direction; it has much the same characteristics as most
of the arms that indent the north-west coast of North America, being almost
hemmed in by precipitous mountains rising abruptly from the shore, and
having great depth c»f water with but little anchorage. At the entrance
between Styles and Grismond points, at its junction with Cardero and

• H.M. gun-vcBsel Socket anchored here in 1879, ai>d the above remarks are by
Lientenant Nedham, B.N., of that vessel.

«y

CHAP, v.]

LOUGHBOROUGH INLET.

199

Chancellor channels, the inlet is about 8 cables wide, which is the average
width to within about one mile from the head, when it opens out to 1 J miles.
From the entrance the inlet extends north for 6 miles as far as Cosby
point, which projects ftom the wes* side, its direction for 7 miles is then
N. by W. ^ W., turning at Towry head into Cooper reach, which takes
a gentle curve between N.E. and North for 4 miles to the head, terminating
in Fraser and McBride bays, which are separated by Pan point jutting out
in the centre. The latter bay affords anchorage in about 25 fathoms at
3 cables from the shore; in the former the water is very deep until
close in.

Sidney bay, 2J miles South from Cosby point on the west shore, and
6\ miles north from Styles point, extends about three-quarters of a mile to
the westward and is about one cable wide, affording anchorage for coasters
near its head in 16 fathoms water.

Boaver OTQOk.* on the west shore of Loughborough inlet, 4 miles
within the entrance, extends 2 miles in a south-westerly direction, varying
from one to 3 cables wide, and shoaling gradually towards its head, where
good and sheltered anchorage may be obtained in 7 fathoms ; anchorage
may also be obtained in about 15 fathoms in mid-channel westward of Goat
islands. Vessels must not pass northward of Goat islands (lying half a
mile within the entrance), as they are connected to the north shore by a
flat which dries at low water. Good water may be obtained from a stream
at the head of the creek, and firewood (Cedar) may be cut for steaming
purposes.

Tides. — The tides in Loughborough inlet are not strong, seldom
exceeding a rate of from one to 2 knots an hour. It is high water, full and
change, in Beavsr creek at 3h. Cm.; springs rise 16 feet.

* See plan of Beaver creek on Admiralty chart, No. 580 ; scale, »i=S'0 inches.

' .■»'

'iK,.ri

" . •♦i,'^' i>'J lJi> Ai J.i xi

.■'.■":)i ;;■-»', r'!M ii'

^ 1' * '• i \ K'> *s'4

,-V'K'''-''? ti^''> ^p'Z'^ ;, 'i'tr^ii; .«*' v?;i.^;-T ;'At ;j( . :,i..

Wl WEH ^' lK ft' t- f i i-

200 .,

CHAPTER VI.

FROM THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA. WESTWARD TO CAPE SCOTT
AND THE SCOTT ISLANDS.

Variation 24° 20' E. in 1888.

DISCOVERY PASSAGE,* formed between the west side of
Valdes island and the Vancouver shore, is the only safe navigable outlet
from the north part of the strait of Georgia to the N.W. Its length in a
N.W. and S.E. direction from cape Mudge to Chatham point is 23^ miles,
and ils avei'age breadth a little more than one mile ; but at Seymour
narrows it contracts to less than half a mile. Its shores, southward of
the narrows, are moderatiiy high and apparently fertile, hut northward
of them steep, rugged, and moun.ainous.

Tides. — Southward of Seymour narrows the streams run with great
strength, from 4 to (i knots at springs, and turn at high and low water by
the shore. At the southern entrance, near cape Mudgtj and between
it and Willow point, heavy races or tide rips rage during the flood, which
would be dangerous to small vessels in blowing weather. It is high
water, full and change, at 5h. 3()m., and the rise and fall is about 11 feet.

Northward of Seymour narrows the tidal streams are comparatively slack ;
they run from 1^ to 2^ hours after high and low water. At the narrows
it is high water, full and change, at 3 hours, and the rise and fall is about
13 feet.

Soundings. — 1« Discovery passage, when to the southward of Sey-
mour narrows, the depths i;a mid-channel vary from 30 to 60 fathoms,
except at one mile N.W. by W. from cape Mudge, where a shoal patch
of 8 fathoms exists- In Seymour narrows the least water in mid-channel
is 2^ fathoms on Ripple rock ; but northward of them the depth increases
to 100 and 140 fathoms.

QUATHIA3KI COVE.t— Cape Mudge, with the bank off it to
the south-east, have been already described {see page 1G4). From it the west
side of Valdes island takes a north-westerly direction, and at the distance

♦ See Admiralty chart: — Strait of Georgia, sheet 2, No. 680 ; scale, m =• 0';, of un
iuch.

f See plan of Quathiaski cove ou Admiralty chart, No. 2,007 ; Hcalu, m-<S inches.

• i

■Mmi

M 4M.SSU -.tLMMmlVt^ iM^

CHAP. VI.]

DISCOVERT PASSAGE.

201

of 3 miles is a small indentation named Quathiaski cove, bordered by a
sandy beach. The cove, which is about 6 cables long in a N.W. and S.E.
direction, and nowhere half a mile wide, is only fit for steamers or small
craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor in its south-east, and
another in its northern part ; the former is recommended, about one or

2 cables' lengths south-east from Grouse island, in 10 fathoms, well
sheltered from all winds. The tide sets slightly through the cove, bat
sweeps strongly past the entrance.

The land between cape Mudge and Quathiaski cove is about 100 feet
high, flat, and fertile ; aa Indian village of considerable extent stands
midway between the two places.

Grouse islElld, in the centre of the cove, is small and moderately
high ; u shoal extends for two-thirds of a cable off its south-east point,
which ought to be guarded against when entering. If intending to anchor
in Quathiaski cove, a vessel should enter south of Grouse island (paying
careful attention to the tides), and keep well over towards the south shore
imtil inside. In the middle of the channel north of Grouse island is a
shoal 'with only a depth of 3 feet on it.

AncllOrage. — Moor mid^vay between the south-east point of Grouse
island and the opposite shore, in from 7 to 10 fathoms. If necessary a
v£!SBel may proceed to the north part of the cove inside Grouse island, and
anchor in from 7 to 9 fathoms. Careful attentio to the helm is important.

GOWLL AND HARBOUR,* about 5 miles north-west from cape
Mudge, is of considerable extent, being upwards of 2J miles long iu a
N.W. and S.E. direction, and one-quarter to two-thirds of a mile broad.
The shores are rugged, and there are several rocks and islands within it.

Steop island, off the entrance, is about 100 feet high, 4 cables long
N.W. and S.E., and one cable wide ; the western side is cliffy.

GOWllaild island, which protects the harbour to the south-east,
is about one mile long and one-quai'ter of a mile wide, high and rugged,
with a summit at both ends, the southern one being nearly 400 feet
high.

Entrance bank Ii<?« nearly across the entrance to the harbour, and
partly dries at low water ; it is composed of sand, being 4 cables in
length N.W. and S.E., and one cable broad ; there is a clear passage on
both sides of it, with not less than 4 fathoms water ; its south end, in

3 fathoms, is one cable north from Vigilant point, the north-west extreme of
GowUand island.

DirecCiont?. — if entering GowDcind harbour from the soutliward
round Steep island at u distance of about one cablv'?, and sttter E.N.E.

..rlfci — — .1 II— II .11 — — ...i ■ — ■ - I ■-■■, __, .. ... ■ — .^. — .^.. ,..i, ...-.i-i — . -...I I .1 — 1 .—__ — ., I— —■■

* See pii^a of QowUand harbour, on Admirftlty chart, No. 9,067 ( Kale, m-" 3 inches.

( t

202

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

'' \

for Vigilant point, which is steep-to, and ought to be rounded at less
than half a cable's length to avoid Entrance bank. Having passed the
point, anchor in S to 7 fathoms, muddy bottom, at about 2 cables* lengths
east from it, or proceed farther to the south-east, whoro more extended
anchorage will be found. The passage south of GowUand is choked up
with rocks.

If coming from the north-west, when Vigilant point bears Ea«t, steer
for it, passing it as before directed.

Anchorage. — The best berth, if stopping for a short time, is in 6 or
7 fathoms at about 2 cables east from Vigilant point ; in the south part of
the harbour the water is deeper, and the anchorage more extended.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in GowUand harbour at
5,30 p.m.; springs rise 11 feet.

Maud island. — From GowUand harbour to Seymour narrows the
coast takes a W.N.V7. direction, being steep-to, high, and rugged. Maud
island, the south-east point of the narrows, is small, about 300 feet high,
and there is a boat passage between it and Valdes island : a small islet,
(Yellow islet) lies 4 cables E.N.E. from it. ^

Willow point (Vancouver island), the south-west point of Dis-
covery passage, lies nearly 2 miles S. by W. from cape Mudge. It is low,
covered with willow bushes, and off it a sandstone ledge extends to tha
north-east for nearly 3 cables. When passing the point do not approach
it within half a mile. From Willow point a low coast trends north-west
for 7 miles to Orange point, and is bordered the whole distance by a
sandy beach.

Orange point is bare and round, of a reddish colour, not unlike
the top of an orange. A boulder spit extends 1^ cables N.W. by N. from
Orange point, its outer limit being marked by kelp in 4 fathoms.

Campbell river. — About l^ miles south-east from Orange point is
the entrance of the Campbell river, a large stream of fresh water, navigable
for some distance by boats or canoes.

DUNCAN BAY,* of whrch Orange point is the east extreme, is
about half a mile deep, and affords good anchorage in 14 to 7 fathoms, sand,
well out of the tide, and sheltered from all ercept N.W. winds. There
is a broad sandy beach at the head of the bay, through which a stream of
water flows. This bay is easy of access, and is the best anchorage
southward of Seymour narrows.

Anchorage. — A good position to anchor is at from 3 to 5 cables W. ^ S.
from Orange point, in from 7 to 14 fathoms.

fl f

(/<■'

* See plan of Duncan bay on Admiralty chart, No. 638 ; scale, m >- 3*0 inchei.

OHAP. VI.]

DUNCAN AND MBNZIB8 BATS, &C.

203

a •

^ ■

Race point, rocky ?nd bare of trees, lying about 3 miles N.W. from
Duncan bay, is bold and steep-to. The tide runs past it with great velocit7,
and, during the flood stream, the overfalls oflfit are very dangerous for boats.

MENZIES BAY,* of which Wilfred point bluff, rocky and 312 feet
high forms the eastern headland, and immediately south-west from Seymour
narrows, is of cocsiderable extent, running in a W.N.W. direction for
1^ miles, and three-quarters of a mile broad, but the centre is filled up by
a large sand-bank, which partly dries at low water ; there is, however, a
narrow but clear passage on either side, and good well-sheltered anchorage
in 5 to 6 fathoms may be had between this bank and the head of the bay.

The east shore of the bay is high and rugged, the western shore low ;
both are steep, and from the head an extensive valley runs to the north-
west, and a bank extends off 2 cables' lengths.

If intending to anchor in the bay, it is recommended to keep within
one cable's length of the east shore for half a mile ; when steer to the
westward towards the centre of the bay, and anchor in about 6 fathoms,
muddy bottom, at half a mile from the head, and 2 cables from the east shore.

With the tide running to the southward an eddy sweeps strong into
Menzies bay north from Race point, but at the head of the bay it is still.

SEYMOUR NARROWS,t at lO^ miles N.W. by W. from
cape Mudge, is a narrow strait about 1-^ miles long, and only from 3 to 5
cables wide, the shores on both sides being high, rugged, and steep-to.

The southern entrance to the narrows lies between Maud islet to the
east, and Wilfred point to the west.

Ripple rock. — A. dangerous rock, about 1^ cables in extent, in a
N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, with only a depth of 2^ fathoms on it, lies
nearly in the centre of Seymour narrows, but rather on the western side*
between Maud island and Wilfred point. Its shoalest part lies 3 cables
S.S.W. ^ W. from the north-west point of the island, and nearly 2 cables
from thrt nearest land of Wilfred point ; it is near the position of the
heaviest tide race. v^^i^v.^-'^ ?. tii^?*;. . .^2«a.m:, J'i-

Tides. — It is liigh water, full and change, in Seymour narrows at
about 3h. Om. ; springs rise 13 feet. The flood stream (from the north-
Trard) commences (at F, and C.) about 10 a.m. ; the velocity at springs
is from 10 to 12 knots, and at neaps 6 to 8 knots. The flood and ebb
streams run for nearly equal intervals of six hours. The average duration
of slack water is about 10 minutes. ' '

The narrows are, therefore, dangerous for large vessels during the
strength of either stream, and it is recommended to only enter at or near

* See. plan of Mensies bay on Admiralty chart, No. 580 ; scale, m — 3*0 inches,
f See Admiralty plan of Seymour narrows, No. 538 ; scale, m = Si'O inches.

204

STRAIT OP GEOBGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

slack water, and to keep the eastern shore aboard in order to avoid Bipple
rock.* The strictest attention to the steerage is essential.

It is stated on good authority that a vessel steaming at the rate of 13
knots has been unable to make headway, and even to be set back, while
attempting the narrows during spring tides. '' '

Coming from the southward, Duncan bay is a convenient anchorage for
awaiting slack water at Seymour narrows.

Nortliward of the narrows, Discovery passage takes a north-westerly
direction for 12 miles to Chatham point, the shores becoming more high
and rugged than before. On the eastern shore are several bays or openings,
but, with the exception of Plumper bay, too deep to afford anchorage : the
western shore is nearly straight, and near Chatham point are Otter cove
and Elk bay, both affording anchorage.

PLUMPER BAYjt on the Valdes island shore half a mile north
from Seymour narrows, is about two-thirds of a mile deep, and the same in
width, affording anchorage in from 14 to 9 fathoms, near its south-east
part, easy of access, well sheltered, and out of the tide. If unable to proceed
through the narrows in consequence of the tide. Plumper bay becomes
a very convenient stopping place, and no directions are necessary for
entering it.

The eddies and tides in Plumper bay if anchored far out ai-e sometimes
strong, causing a vessel to surge heavily on her cables. ... ,,

Deep Water bay, separated from Plumper bay by the peninsula
of Separation head, is about one mile deep, and half a mile broad, but too
deep for anchorage.

Grauite point is a high white granite bluff on the eastern shore
of Discovery passage, at 8 miles N.W. by N. from Seyiaour narrows.
On both sides of the point is an opening, the southern one extending east
for nearly 3 miles, and containing several islands ; the northern one is
smaller, but both are too deep to afford anchorage. At 2 cables N.W. from
Granite point is a »";k with only 9 feet water on it. ,,- ?vj, -./

4! '

* The U.S.S. Wachusett, passing through the narrows from the s>uthward with a
strong ebb, settled down iu an enormous whirlpool and struck heavily ou Uipp'.e rock,
carrying away a considerable portion of her false keel, and badly splinterinjr aer keel.
The U.S.S. Saranac was wrecked on this rock in 1B7 ii.

t See plan of Plumper bay on Admiralty chart, No. 688 ; scale, m = 2 '0 Inches.

CHAP. TI.]

PLUMPER BAT. — OTTER COVE.

205

The coast on the Vancouver side trends nearly straight from Wilfred
point to the north-west for 9 miles to Otter point, the south-east point of
Elk bay. '''•-•■ • •'-''t

Elk bay, on the west side of Discovery passage, at 9 miles north-
west from Seymour narrows, is about 1^ miles broad and three-quarters of
a mile deep. It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms, about
one-third of a mile from the head, and exposed to northerly winds ; Otter
point, its southern extreme, slopes gradually to the sea, with a small shingle
beach running off. ..,...:, . ; - ?

A rock which covers at half flood lies 1^ cables off the shore, three-
quarters of a mile north-west from Elk bay.

OTTER COVE,* on the west side of Discovery passage, 3^ miles
from Otter point and just south of Chatham point, is a small but snug
anchorage, sheltered from all winds by Limestone island (about 100 feet
high), in the centre of the entrance. Snag rock with only 2 feet water
on it lies one cable E.N.E from Limestone island.

If intending to anchor in Otter cove, pass north of Limestone (Lewis)
island, and anchor midway between it and the head of the cove, in from
10 to 6 fathoms ; a large vessel should moor.f

CHATHAM POINT, a low rocky point, nearly 24 miles from
cape Mudge, is the north-west extreme of Discovery passage, and also
separates it from Johntone strait. Discovery passage is here 1^ niles wide.

Chatham point is situated in latitude 50° 20' 30" N., longitude
12^° 28' 40" W.

Beaver rock, awash at low water, lies 2 cables N.E. from the north
extreme of Chatham point ; in rounding the point, the shore should
not be approached nearer than half a mile. Between the point and
Nodales channel are several strong eddies or tide rips.

Bocks extend in a scattered way 3 cables north-east from Beaver rock.
The point on Valdes island opposite Chatham point has a nearly bare steep
rocky face, not much higher than Chatham point. .'.s ; - .; /,;••. -J .,<,«

Directions for DISCOVERY PASSAGE —Proceeding

through Discovery passage from the southward, if the tide be favourable
a vessel has only to keep in mid-channel till past Seymour narrows; but
if the tide be unfavourable, after passing cape Mudge, keep about
2 or 3 cables off the eastern or Valdes island shore, which is steep-to,
and where the tide does not run so strong. If unable to get through the
narrows, Menzies and Duncan bays afford good anchorages. The latter
is by far the more preferable, being quite easy of access.

_ ♦ See plan of Otter cove on Admiralty chart, No. 580 ; scale, m = 3 inches.

f The passage south of Limestone island is choked with kelp, the least water obtained
was 4 fathoms, but there is probably less.

The time of high water, full and change, in Otter cove is unlertain.

206

STRAIT OF GEOBOIA TO CAFE SCOTT. [ohap. vi.

' North of Seymour narrows, the tides being weaker (3 to 5 knots), a
vessel may proceed either in mid-channel or close to either shore, except in
rounding Chatham point, which should not be approached nearer than
half a mile. Plumper bay, as before mentioned, affords good anchorage to a
yessel waiting for the tide to proceed through Seymour narrows from the
northward.

NODALES CHANNEL is 8 miles long in a N.E. by E. direction
between Thurlow and Valdes islands, and leading into Cardero channel ;
its western entrance, which is upward of one mile wide, with deep water,
is 1^ miles N.E. by N. from Chatham point ; there are some tide rips off
it. No soundings at^40 fathoms could be obtained throughout the channel,
and in the fairway of the western entrance the depth was 70 fathoms,
sand.

Hardinge island, 300 feet high, about three-quarters of a mile
long and one-quarter of a mile wide, is 1^ miles W. by N. from the
entrance to Ct^meleon harbour, with a passage on both sides. Young passage,
to the southward, is one-quarter of a mile wide, and Burgess passage, to the
northward, half a mile ; there is deep water in both.

MayCOCk rock. — ^Three-quarters of a mile W. ^ S. from the south
entrance point of Cameleon harbour, and 6 cables W. by S. from Bruce
point, is Maycock rock, with one fathom on it. The shore to the
eastward of this rock for half a mile has foul gi'ound marked with kelp
extending from it for nearly the distance of one cable's length.

CAMELEON HAKBOUR* on the south-east shore of Nodales
channel (Yaldes island) is about one mile deep in an E.S.E. direction, and
has an average width of 3 cables. The entrance, between Bruce point on
the north shore and a small islet off the south shore, is less than 2 cables
wide, and caution must be observed in rounding Bruce point in order to
avoid the Douglas rock lying half a cable off it. It is advisable to keep
well outside the kelp when entering. . n>- ,> ;..«>!?; •:■,,^'^ ^-r; •. vA

Anchorage sheltered from all winds, in from 8 to 10 fethoms, may
be obtained at 2 cables from the head of Cameleon harbour. The lead
should be kept going quickly in approaching the head as the flat which
extends nearly 200 yards from it is steep to.

Tides. — It is bigh water, full and change, in Cameleon harbour at
3h. Om. ; springs rise 16 feet, neaps 11^ feet.

JOHNSTONE STRAIT,t "which separates the north-east side of
Vancouver island from the mainland, is comprised between Chatham point

* See plan of Cameleon harbour on Admiralty chart, No. S80 ; scale, m => S iaciies.
t See Admiralty chart cf Johnstone and Brooghton straits and Queen Charlotte sound,
Ko. 681 ; scale, m = 0'6 of an inch. .. .„ . ,;,„,.... .. , .. , . ., . , , ,.- ~ ---.■ ^,y.

OHAP. VI.]

JOHNSTONE STRAIT.

i-i

207

and Beaver cove, being about 55 miles in length in a W. by N. and E. by S.
direction, with a varying breadth of one to 2 miles. The shc.e on both
sides is high and rugged, more especially the southern, which may be said
to be a continuous mountain range, rising almost abruptly from the sea, the
summits of which vary from 2,000 to 5,000 feet in height, some of the
higher ones being snow-clad all the year round.

The shores of the strait are nearly everywhere steep-to, except a few
places along the northern side. There are no anchorages whatever along
the south shore, but there are several on the northern, viz., Knox,
Blinkinsop, and Forward bays, as well as 'ports Harvey and Neville, all of
which, except the latter, being easily accessible to sailing vessels.

The south shore, west of Salmon bay, takes a general westerly direction
for 34 miles to Beaver cove, where the high land suddenly terminal es,
and is indented with a few slight bays, all of which are too deep to
afford anchorage. Bauza cove, one mile east of Beaver cove, is a small
deep bight, and affords no anchorage ; some small islets lie in its
entrance.

From Chatham point to the west end of Thurlow island, the
soundings in mid-channel are very deep, no bottom in many places
being found at 150 fathoms. Near Helmcken island the strait is shoaler
and the bottom irregular, the depths in mid-channel varying from
17 to 80 fathoms ; but west of Hardwicke island it again deepens to no
bottom at 150 and 170 fathoms.

Ripple shoal, on which the least known depth is 7 to 9 fathoms,
lies about 1^ miles West from the west point of Thurlow, and half a mile
off the south shore of the strait. This should be avoided.

Tides. — Everywhere in Johnstone strait it is high water, full and
change, at Oh. 30m., and the rise and fall of tide is from 15 to 17 feet.
The streams run from 2 to 2^ hours after high and low water by the
shore, and except in the vicinity of Helmcken island and to the ea-stward
of E[nox bay, they are not strong. In the former place they run from 3 to
6 knots, and in the latter 2 to 4 knots ; but in other parts of the strait
they seldom exceed one to 3 knots per hour. Near Helmcken island are
several heavy tide rips, which in blowing weather would be dangerous
to boats or small craft ; and just west of Chatham point is an overfall
producing a considerable swell at times.

THURLOW ISLANDS are on the north side of Johnstone strait,
to the westward of Nodales channel ; their south side, which borders the
strait, is rocky and about 13 miles long in a westerly direction ; the eastern
half is indented by several bays, off which lie some small islands.

These islands are mountainous, the summits rising to elevations of from
1,400 to more than 2,000 feet ; mount Eldon, near the centre of the islands

208

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[chap. VI.

Dortbward of Pender islands, wooded and square-topped, and quite isolated,
is remarkable, and 2,01 1 feet high. .i •:'

Knox bay,* on the south side of Thurlow, and 7 miles westward of
Chatham point, is two-thirds of a mile deep and about the same in width,
affording anchorage in from 15 to 17 fathoms at 2 cables from the head, off
the edge of the bank, which is steep-to. The anchorage is well protected
from east or \7esterly winds, but it ought only to be used as a stopping
place for the night or tide, as from the steepness of the bank a vessel
would touch if a soutiierly wind sprang up. Off its south-west point
foul ground extends foi aearly one cable. If intending to anchor, steer
for the head of the bay, and anchor immediately 16 fathoms are
obtained.

Fondor islEUdS, between Knox bay and Nodales channel, are very
rugged and barren, the largest being loO feet high ; foul ground exists to
the east and west of them for nearly half a mile, and their south side
should not be approached nearer than 2 cables. The tide sets strongly
between them.

Westward of Knox bay the coast of Thurlow island trends in a W.S.W
direction almost straight, for nearly 6 miles, when it turns to the north-
west ; its shores are high, rugged, and steep-to, and may be approached to
within a distance of one cable.

Eden point, the southern entrance point of Chancellor channel and
the north-west extreme of Thurlow, is bold and cliffy ; half a mile south-
east of it is a small bay, too deep to afford anchorage, except for small craft.|

Ripple point, on the south or Vancouver shore of the strait, 6 miles
west from Chatham point, is steep-to, and between it and Knox bay are
some heavy tide rips in blowing weather. The coast between Ripple and
Chatham points is indented by two slight bays, but the water in them is
too deep to afford anchorage.

Camp point, 9| miles W. by S. ^ S. from Ripple point, slopes
gradually to the sea ; a rocky beach extends a short distance off it ; and
half a mile to the north-east of it is the Ripple shoal, with from 7 to 9
fathoms, marked by kelp, about 3 cables in extent, with deep water
around it. {See page 207.)

Salmon bay. — The coast between Ripple and Camp points runs in
a W.S.W. direction, curving slightly inwards ; and westward from Camp
point to Salmon bay it is nearly straight for 4^ miles. Salmon bay at

* It is high water, full and change, in Knox bay at Oh. ; springs rise 16 feet, ueaps
12 feet.

t On the line from Eden poi.^vt, Thurlow island, to Camp point peak, and close to the
Vancouver shore, lies a rock covered at high water, which was discovered by Captain

Carroll, of the steamer California, in May 1880 United States Pacific Coast Survey,

1883.

CHAP. VI.] KNOX BAY. — lIJiLMCKEN ISLAND, &C.

209

high water appear?, of considerable extent, bnt affords no anchorage, the
bank, which runs off lialf a mile from its head, being foo steep. A river ol'
considerable extent flows into this bay, and is said to be navigable for
canoes several miles inland. At this place is the only break in the moun-
tain range on the south shore, and a valley of considerable extent stretches
away to the south-east, in the centre of which appears a remarkable bare
summit.

HELMCKEN ISLAND, lying 3 miles westward of Thurlow
island, in the centre of the strait, is 1^ miles long east and west, and about
half a mile wide, with a clear channel of the same width on both sides of
it. The island is about 150 or 200 feet high, with a rugg«'d coast line, and
several small islets lie close off its north-east shore.

Speaker rock, which covers at one quarter flood, lies 2^ cables
N.E. from its eastern point, iind is in the track of vessels using Current
passage.

Race passage, to the southward of Helmcken island, is half a mile
wide, bnt deep and clear of danger ; the tide sets strongly through it
(as much as 6 knots at springs), and there are some heavy tide rips in its
eastern part. This is the passage generally used.

Current passage, to the northward of Helmcken, is about half a
mile wide, and deep, the tide being as strong as in llace passage.

CHANCELLOR CHANNEL, which is 8 miles long and
connects with Cardero channel, lies along tlu; north shore of Thurlow island,
and has its entrance abreast Helmcken island, between Eden point (the
west extreme of Thurlow island) and the south shore of Hardwicke island ;
it is half a mile wide and clear of danger. %

WELLBORE CHANNEL, separating the north-east side of
Hardwicke i.sland from tiie mainland, the entrance to which from
Chancellor cbaunel is nearly 3 miles north-east of Eden point, takes a
W.N.W. direction for 4 miles, communicating with Forward harbour,
Topaze harbour, and Sunderland channel. At its entrance is Bulkeley
island, and the vessels using the channel should pass east of it, and keep
the eastern shore on board to avoid some rocks which lie off the shore
<}f Hardwicke island.

Tides. — The tidal streams in Wellbore channel run with great velocity,
often attaining at springs a rate of over 7 knots an hour.

FORWARD HARBOUR,* on the eastern side of Wellbore
channel, the entrance to which between Louisa and Horace points is only n
little over a cable wide, extends nearly 3 miles in a north-east direction,

* See Admiralty plan. Forward harbour, No. 6.'^0 ; scale, m
A 17498.

4*0 inches.
O

210

STRAIT OF GEOKGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

and though the entrance is narrow, its freedom from obstruction renders
it easily accessible to vessels of moderate size. Its shores are steep-to, but
the water being of moderate depth over its whole extent (12 to 15 fathoms),
anchorage may bo taken up in any part of it, if requisite. At its head a
flat dries out 2^ cables at low water, and two small streams flow into it.

For half a mile within the entrance the passage in is from one to 2 cables
wide, with depths of 8 to 12 fathoms, but at that distance the harbour
opens and varies from 3^ to 5 cables in width. Off Mills point, where the
harbour commences to Aviden, there is a deep opot of 20 fathoms.

AllCllOrage i"fty» ^s alremly mentioned, be taken up anywhere, but
the best position is in Douglas bay, on the north shore, just round Milla
point, in from 6 to 10 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Forward harbour at
3h. Om.; springs rise 16 feet, neaps 11^ feet.

BeSSborOUgh bay, an open indentation on the north shore of
Wellborc channel half a mile north-west of the entrance to Forward
harbour, affords no anchorage, owing to the great depth of water in it.

SUNDERLAND CHANNEL.— The entrance, which is sub-
ject to heavy tide rips, lies between Fanny reef and the shore near
Blinkinsop bay ; Sunderland channel is a clear navigable channel extend-
ing over 6 miles in a north-east direction to the entrance to Topazc
harbour. Except at its entrance, where it is less than one mile wide,
it is over a mile in widtli. Seymour and Poyntz islands lie in mid-
channel, the latter near the junction of Sunderland channel with Wellborc
channel {.see page 209). The depths shoal gradually from 50 fathoms at the
entrance, to 22 fathoms north of Poyntz island ; but there is a deep run of
water in that locality and along the shore south of the two islands above
mentioned. - ■■'•..■■. .<•.••, j-r*,''^'

Tides. — The tidal streams in Sunderland channel are not strong,
attaining a velocity of only from one-half to 1^ knots an hour.

TOPAZE HARBOUR, the continuation of Sunderland channel,
is, from its entrance (7 cables wide) between Murray island on the east,
and the shore under Geneste Cone (1,400 feet high), on the west, nearly 5
miles long in a north-east direction, and nearly one mile wide, gradually
narrowing, however, at its head to half a mile in width. Ov?»' '.he whole
of this harbour there is an uniform depth of 13 fathoms until within half a
mile of its head. On the north side, 1^ miles within the entrance, is
Jackson bay, a narrow bight extending 1^ miles in a north-west direction
but shoal at nearly a mile from its head.

At the head of Topaze harbour are mounts Drummond and Berkeley,
3,273 and 3,987 feet high respectively.

oiiAi'. VI.] TOPAZE HARBOUR. — PORT NEVILLE. . 211

AnohoragO may bo obtained, w» I: sholtorod, in cither JacJcHon bay
or at tho head of tho harbour, in 10 fathoma. . i

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Topaze harbour at 3h. Om. ;
springs rise 16 foet, neaps 11^ feet.

HARDWICKE ISLAND forms the north side of Johnstone
strait for 7 miles to tho westward of Thurlow island, and is sopanitod from
tlin latter by Chancellor channel. It is high and rugge<l, and the soiith
shore steep-to, except near its south-west extremity, wliore Earl ledge runs
off for 3 cables, only uncovering at low water.

York island, high round and about half a mile in diameter, and another
small low islet half a mile westward of it lie off tho west point of Hardwicke,
and outside them, at tho distance of one-third of a mile, is tho Fanny reef,
which covers or is awash at high water ; between the reef and north shore
there are some heavy tide rips.

BLINKINSOP BAY, on the shore of British Columbia, 2^ miles
noith-wcst of Hardwicke island, and 25 miles from Chatham point, is
about l^ miles deep, and half a mile wide ; its shores are high, and from
tlie head a bank dries out at low water for nearly one milo.
' A shoal marked by kelp, on which there is a depth of 4 fathoms, lies

one cable N.W. by W. from Tuna point, the east entrance point of this
bay.

Anchorage. — This bay affords good anchorage, in 10 to 12 fathoms,
about one-third of a mile N.E. from its south-west point, well sheltered and
easy of access. The only direction required is to keep in mid-channel,
avoiding the above-mentioned rock, and anchor on obtaining 12 fathoms,
as tho bank is rather steep.

Jesse island, ly'"g about 2 cables off the shore, nearly half a mile
to tho south-west of Blinkinsop bay, is small and steep-to.

PORT NEVILLE,* the next opening west of Blinkinsop bay,
is of considerable extent, running in a north-easterly direction for
7 miles, and varying from one-quarter to one mile in breadth. It
affords a spacious and secure anchorage, but in consequence of
Channel rock, lying near the middle of its entrance channel, great
caution is required in entering. Its shores, except near the eastern side
of entrance and head, are high, sloping gradually to the water's edge.

The entrance is between Milly island and Ransom point (off which is a

^ small rock), thence the channel into port Neville is 1^ miles long, and about

" 3 cables wide, running in a northerly direction ; the depths in it vai-y

See Admiralty plnn of port Neville, No. 630 ; scale, m =-4 inches.

o 2

212

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[CHAP. VI.

from 5 fathoms, slioftling to 2^ fnthonis in the north jiart. The Lest
passage is on the western side of Channel rock, there being ftbout 17 feet
at low water ; the passage eastwanl oC it )ias only 12 feet.

The depth of water in the port varies from G to 9 fathoms,* with a
muddy bottom ; but in the shoalest part of the entrance channel, abreast
Chaniiel rock, there »»«e not more than 2J or 3 fathoms.

Clia.llliel rock) of small extent and very dangerous, having only
4 feet over it, lies in the middle of its north part, 3i cables S.W. ^ S. from
Boulder point, so that unless vessels specially require to cater this port,
the anchorage of port Harvey, and Blinkinsop ba^s, which are at no great
distance from its vicinity, ought to l>e preferred, being both secure antl
easy of access.

Boulder point, the north-east poi t of the channel, is low, with a
stony beach round it : a shoal extends otif it to the northward and eastward
for 5 cables, with H fathoms in some parts.

Robbers nob is a remarkable low grassy point on the north side
of tlie port, about one mile from Boulder point.

Anchorage. — I'o the westward of it is a shoal bay, inlo which flow
some large streams; the Iwst v.' ;iiorage is about half a mile south-west of
the nob in G or 7 fathoms. Temporary anchorage for a mght may also be
bad at the outer part of the entrance, but the soundings decrease very
suddenly when abreast Milly island.

Shoal creek, at the head of port Neville, is about 2 miles long,
narrow, and not recommended, as its entrance is only one cable wide, with a
rock in the middle ; from its head a mud flat extends off nearly one mile.

Directions. — Entering port Neville after rounding Alilly island,
which is just S.W. of the entrance, and may be approached close to,
proceed up mid-channel until Robbers nob comas iu line with Boulder
point bearing N.N.E. ^ E., when keep well over ti) the western side of the
channel to avoid Channel rock. When Boulder point bears N.E. by E.
the vessel will 1)0 clear to (he north-west of the reck, and should then
haul to the eastward to avoid a patch of 3 feet which skirts the western
shore abroost Boulder point, after passing which, steer into the port
N.N.E. \ E., and anchor in 7 fathoms, about half a mile S.W. by W. from
Robbers nob. If necessary a vessel may anchor in the entrance about
half a mile north of Milly island in 4J or 5 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Neville at Oh. 30m. ;
springs rise 17 feet, neaps 12 feet : the stream runs from one to 2 knots at
the entrance.

CIUV. VI.]

JOHNSTONE STUAIT, PORT HARVEY.

213

Slixupson reef. — The coast between ports Neville and Harvey
trends in a W. by S. direction slightly indented. W. by S. ^ S. 4 miles
from the entrance of port Neville, and one-quarter of a mile off shore, lies
the Slimpson reef, wiiich covera at half flood.

PORT HARVEY,* the next inlet westward of port Neville on the
north side "f J onnctone strait, indents the coast in a northerly direction for
4 mile?, with a breadth varying from one-quarter to three-quarters of a
mile, and affords good and well-sheltered anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, muddy
bottom, at half a mile from its head. There are several nmall islets (Mist)
within it, and the shores are rugged ; from its head swampy ground extends
to the north-east, and to the north-west is a narrow gorge which partly
fills at high water and joins Knight inlet. The depths in thr entrance
vary from 60 to 80 fathoms, shoaling rapidly towaids the head.

Broken islands, off the east side of the entrance, are low, rugged,
and of small extent; foul ground extends from them in a northerly
direction for three-quarters of a mile, they may be approached, however,
to within one-quarter of a mile on the west side, but only a boat passage
exists to the eastward of them.

Havannah channel, the entrance of which is 14 miles north of
Broken islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the east side of
jmrt Harvey, connecting it with Call creek. Its length is about 4 miles,
and its breadth varies from one-half to one mile ; the shores aie high and
much broken, and the depths in mid-channel vary from 9 to 50 fathoms.
There are several islands within it, which lie mostly in mid-channel.

Hull island, the largest, is three-quarters of a mile long, and half a
mile broad.

BoUghey bay, i» the south-east part of Mavannah channe', is about
one mile deep in a southerly direction, and half a mi'e broad ; a vessel
may anchor in this bay at half a mile from the head, in from 10 to 14
fathoms, but the passage to it has not been sufficiently examined to
recommend its being used as an anchorage.

Browning rook, »» tlu; north part of Havannah channel, about
one-third of a mile north of Hull i>laud, has only 12 feet over it, and lies
nearly in the fairway of the channel to Call creek ; there is an apparently
clear p.ns!«agc to the westward of it.

Caution. — As the soundings are uneven and the bottom rock*' (o
the west and north-west of Hull inland, great care should be used in
navigating this channel near that neighbourhood.

See ^dmiraltv plan f^f port ilerfey. No. 6fii , scale, m « 4*0 ]nohe<.

K«[l

STllAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [ouav. vi.

Ca>ll Creok, the eastern termination of the in-^t leading from
Havannah channel, is an inlet of considerable extent, its length in a north-
easterly direction being 12 miles, a ud its breadth varying from one-half
to 1^ miles; the shores on either side are high and precipitous, rising
abruptly to mountains from 1,000 to 4,700 feet iu height. The head
terminates in a low swamp, and a valley extends to the north-east
from it.

Anchorage. — The depths in the entrance of Call creek are about 40
fathoms, but increase to upwards of 120 fathoms towards the head; there is
no aiichorage whatever except near its entrance, on the north side amongst
the Warren islands, where from 6 to 14 fathoms will be found. These
islands, four iu number, and small, are half a mile from the entrance ;
they run parallel to the shore from one to 2 cables off' it. A vessel
may anchor between the two southern islands in from 6 to 10 fathoms.

Chatham channel, the east part of which commences at Root
point, the north-Avest extreme of Havannah channel, trends to the west-
ward, connecting these waters with Knight inlet ; its breadth as far as
surveyed varies from 2 to 3 cables, the depth in mid-channel is 4 fathoms
at a distance of three-quarters of a mile west of lioot point. It is not
recommended to use this clmnnel until further explored, as only 4 miles
of it have at present been examined.*

Directions. — if intending to anchor in port Harvey, keep in mid-
channel till within the Mist islands, when the anchorage opens out, and
anchor in 7 fathoms in the middle of the harbour, at about half a mile
from the head.

A sailing vessel of considerable size can beat in as far as ]Mist islands,
and may stand anywhere to within one cable's distance of the west Khore j
in making the eastern board, ket^p outside the lino of tlio Broken islands,
and out of the bight between Transit point and the Mist '.shmds.

The anchorages in Boughey bay, Havannah chunnei, and among the
Warren islands on the shore of Call creek, are secure ; but the passages to
them, though probably deep, have not been sufficiently examined to give
directions for entering them. .

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Harvey n
Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 10 feet.

Escape reef, lying 2 miles W. by S. i S. from Broken islands, and
half a mile off" the north shore of Johnstone strait, is about one cubit; iu
extent, has 4 feet least water on it, and is marked by kelp in the summer.

* Captain Vanoouvur't* tundur, the ChtUham, a hiuuU brig, pusscd thntugh this
ohanaol to tho wuBlward iu July 1792, and tho least water found was 3 fathoniH.

OUAP. VI.]

JOHNSTONE STllAIT. - - FOEWAllD BAY.

216

This reef, which hfia deep water around it, is in the track of vessels entering
port Harvey from the westward; to avoid it Iceep in the middle of the
strait, till the entrance of the port comes well open, bearing N.N.E. or
N. by -l)., when titeer in for it.

FORWARD BAY, 3 miles W.S.W. from port Harvey, is a
slight bend in the coast, about 1^ miles broad, and three-quarters of ii
mile deep, with a small islet 30 feet high oiT its south-west point ; its
shores are moderately high, and a bank extends nearl}' 3 cables rrom its
hcml.

Anchorage. — ^This bay affords good anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms,
off the edge of the bank, at about two-thirda of a mile N.E. of its south-
west point, well sheltered from all except south-easterly wir:ds, and oven
these send in no sea ; it is easy of access for any class of vessel, and a very
good Slopping place.

Cd/Utioil. — Entering it from the eastward guard against the Escape
reef. .

Bc>at harbour. — From Forward bay, the northern shore of John-
stone strait Viecomes comparatively low, and trends W. by S. for 15 uiiles
to VVeynton passage, at the teruiination of the strait. Bofit havl)our, a
small cove affording shelter to boats, is 6 miles westward of Forward l)ay,
the coa»t between the two places being nearly straight, and may bo
approached to within a quarter of a mile.

HANSON and CRACROFT ISLANDS.-Bctweon Boat

harbour and VVeynton passage the shores of Cracroft island are low and
rocky. The island is about 15 miles long ; and off its .south-west part,
at the distance of liaif a mile from the shore, and 2^ miles cas-t from
Blakoney passage, are the Sophia islets, of small extent Hanson island is
separated from Cmcroft by a passage one mile wide; its south side is
3 miles long, and off its south-west point are some rocks extending 2 or
3 cables to the westv^ard. -

Growler cove indents the west end of Craeroft island in an E.N.E.
direction for three-quarters of a mile, with a width of about 1 \ cables, and
from 20 to 5 fathoms water. At the head a Hat runs out lor a short
distance. The Sophia islets lie off the south entrance point.

Directions. — For a steamer, or sailing vessel with a fair wind, the
navigation of Johnstone strait is perfectly easy, it being onl)'^ requisite to
keep in mid-channel, except when hearing Ilelmckcn isl.md from tlie
eastward, when a vessel ought, after passing Thurlow island, to keep
withii; 3 cables of the southern nhore, or Camp point, till j)ast llu' Uippio
shoal, which, from being marked with kelp, is likely to have li.'ss water

MRK

216

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPK SCOTT.

[OHAP. VI.

ovof it tlian has been found. In the vicinity of Helmckeu the tides are
strong, but not enough to stop a steam vessel of moderate power j to the
westward of it they have no great sti'ength.

If wishing to anchor for the night, Knox, Blinkinsop, and Forward bays,
and port Harvey on the northern side, afford good anchorage, and are,
with the present Admiralty charts, easy of access.

If beating through the strait, when to the eastward of Holmcken island,
the shores on both sides may be approached to one cable, except for
half a mile on either side of Pender islands, the south side of wliich
latter ought not to be approached neaier than 2 cables, as the tide runs
strong in their vicinity. Between Thurlow and the west end of Hard-
wicke island, it is not advisable to beat, as the tide thereabouts runs
strong and irregularlj', there being also several dangers in the track,
viz., Ripple slioal and Speaker rock, east of Helmckeu island ; and Earl
ledge to the westward of it. From Hardwicke island to Beaver cove,
the south shore may be approached to one cable ; and the only dangers
along the north shore are the Slirapnon and Escape rcefi?, which can be
easily avoided liy tacking short of them, keeping more than half a mile
out when near the Intt^'r ; elsewhore the north shore may be approached
to within a distance of 2 or 3 cables.

BROUGHTON STRAIT, which connects (Jueen Charlotte
sound with Jolm.stone sti'iiit, is upwards of II miles in length, east and
west, tlie breadth varying from 4 miles at the east, to one mile at the
west entrance. Its southern shore is formed by Vancouver island, and
ti)e northern by the south side of Malcolm islan<l, and l)otb, except near
Beaver cove, are low. There are several island.y, rock.s, and shoals in tho
eastern part; but there is a clear navigable passage along the southern
side half a mile wide in the narrowest place (abreast Alert bay in Cor
morant island). . There are several anchorages along both sides of tho
"trait, available as stopping places, — Alert bay, on the south shore of
C!orujorant island ; port McNeill on the Vancouver shore ; and Mitchell and
Hough bays on the south side of Malcolm island. The Nimpkish river,
which disembogues on the south shore of the strait, is a stream of con
siderable size, and said to be navigable by canoes for a two days' journey.

At the eastern entrance of the strait the depths vary from 60 to
100 fathoms, decreasing rapidly to tho westward ; abreast the Nimpkish
river are from 19 to 20 fathoms ; but to the westward of it the bottom
becomes irregular, the depths varying from 15 to 40 fathoms.

TidOS. — I'l liroughton strait it is high water, full and change, at
hours ;K) minutes, the rise and fall being 14 or lo teet. In the
navigalilt* channel tli<.' slrcum.^ lun one to 4 knots, but in the Race and

OUAl'. VI.]

BROUGHTON STRAIT. — PORT M'^NEILL.

217

■■!

Weyntou passages 3 to 6 knots, turning everywhere about 2 hours after
high and low water by the shore.

BEAVER COVE,* at the south-east extreme of Broughton strait,
extends upwards of one mile in a southerly ('irection, and is half a mile
wide; its shores aire high, and the depth is too great for anchorage.
Mount Holdsworth, a remarkable conical peak, b,MO feet high, and very
conspicuous from the eastward, rises 3 miles to the south-west of the
cove.

Nimpkish riV6r,t which flows into a shallow bay on the south
shore, 5 miles westward of Beaver cove, is upwards of one cable wide at
entrance, with 2^ fathoms, but only navigable for any distance by canoes ;
a bank dries off it for nearly one mile, leaving a narrow winding channel
with about 5 feet water, into the river.

Greon islet, off the outer edge of this bank, is about 4 feet above
high water, and is small and bare : a rocky ledge which uncovers at low
water, extends a distance of half a mile east from Green islet, and there
is also an uncovering rock at the same distance west from it. In navi-
gating the strait, this islet should nut be approached within a distance of
3 cables.

On the north hank of the Nimpkish, at the entrance, is a small plateau
of grassy land, on which are the ruins of the large native village of
Cheslakoe. The river flows throtigh a broad valley bounded by high
mountains for a distance of about 6 miles, and then enters lake Karmutsen,
an extensive sheet of water 12 miles long.

PORT McNeill, on the south side of Broughton strait, about
10 miles west from Beaver cove, runa in a VV.S.W. direction for 2 miles,
is three-quarters of a mile broad, and afibrds a good, well-sheltered anchorage
in 6 to 9 fathoms. Its shores are low, and borderetl by a sandy beacli,
which extends oflf three-quarters of a mile from the head. From Ledge
point, the north point of entrance, a narrow ledge, with from 3 to 5 fathoms
ou it, exten<ls I ;^ miles E.N.E. towards Haddington island; kolp grows over
this ledge in summer.

Eel reef, 'yi"S 9 cables S.S.W. from Ledge point, and about 2 cables
otf the south shore of the port, covers at three-quarters flood.

Directions. — if intending to anchor in port McNeill keep half a
mile from the southern shore when entering to avoid the ledge off Ledge
point, and anchor when the point bears N.K., about 5 or 6 cables distant,
in from 5 to 6 fathoms, sandy Irattom.

• See Adiuiralty plan of Reaver cove, on Sheet of plans, No. 2,067 ; «calo, ni-^S \u*.
■f See plan of Alert bay and cntraiicu to Nimpkish river, on Admiralty eliuit
No. 2,067.

It is hiffh water, full mid ehaiige. ii-: Nimpkish r>v»"r Jit Oh. ;iOm. ; sprinfrx lire 14 feil.

/, ■

218

STEAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[CIlAl-. VI.

When leaving and bound to the westward, vessols should stand to tho
eastward until within half a mile of Haddington island before hauling to
tho northward round Ledge point.

The coast from port McNeill trends about W.S.W. 4 miles to tho
entrance of Queen Charlotte sound. It is bordered by a Sandy beach, and
may bo approached to within a distance of 2 cables.

Fea>rse islandij, in the centre of Broughton strait, at its eastern
entrance, arc a group of small low islands, with some rocks and reefs
extending half a mile north-west, and nearly one mile south-east from them.

Blakeney passago, between Hanson island on the west and the
west extremes of Cracroft and Harbledown islandc on the east, varies in
width from one mile to half a mile. It connects Johnstone strait with
Blackfish sound. The strength of the tide in it is from 2 to 5 knots.

Weynton passagO, between Hanson and Peurse islands, is about
1| miles wide, with depths in mid-channel varying from 40 to 60 fathoms.
Tho shores on both sides are very much broken into rocks and small
islands ; the tide rushes through at the rate of from 5 to 6 knots j and
unless wishing to anchor in Mitchell bay, it should not be used.

Race passage, between Pearse and Cormorant islands, is two-thirds
of a mile wide, but a rock lies in raid-channel at its south part. The tides
set at the rate of from 3 to 6 knots through the passage, and it is dangerou^s,

CORMORANT ISLAND lies in the centre of Broughton
strait, to the west of the Pearse islands. It is about 150 feet high, 2^ miles
long, east and west, three-quarters of a mile wide, and bordered by a sandy
beach. Gordon point, its south-east extreme, is 2^ miles W. by N. from
Beaver cove. A small patch of 4 fathoms marked by kelp lies 1^ miles
W. Viy S. from Leonard point, the north-west point of Cormorant island.

ALERT BAY,* on the south side of Cormorant island, is nearly
one mile wide, and half a mile deep, affording a good and well-sheltered
cnchorage in from 6 to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom ; it is easy of access, tho
shores being everywhere clear of danger. There is an esta'^lishment hero
for tinning salmon caught in the Nimpkish river ; and a pier, at the
extremity of which there is a depth of about 12 feet, extends from tho
north-eastern shore of this bay. v^ »« 't yvivn^'v ><:• u- ,niJO/:T'>:^ U

There is also a mission established, and quite a largo Indian village,
comprising most of the former inhabitants of Cheslakce. The house marked
on the chart is a small one-storied house, with three windows towards tho
water. Near it is a very small chapel.

A supply of wood for steaming purposes may be obtained at Alert bay.

* See plan of Alert bay on Admiralty chart, No. 2,067 ; scale, m = 3 inchcN.

OUAl'. VI, J

ALEUT BAY. — MALCOLM ISLANJD.

210

. •

Yellow bluff, tho south- weat point of the bay, may bo recognised
by a remarkable yellow cliff at the extreme of tho point.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Alert bay at Oh. 30m ;
springs rise 15 feet.

Haddington island, 7 miles Avest of Beaver cove, in the centre
of Broughton strait, is small ; its south ".iid west sides are steep-to, but
from the northern shore a bar, with as little as 6 feet water in some parts,
connects it with Malcolm island. • - ,

Between Haddington island and the ledge running off from the north
point of port JSIcNeil is a passage three-quarters of a mile wide, with
not less than 7 fathoms water in mid-channel.

MALCOLM ISLAND, which forms the north side of Broughton
strait, is 13J miles long W.S.W. and E.N.E., with an average breadth of
nearly 2 miles ; tho shores are generally low, a sandy beach extending off
a short distance from them. On its south side are Mitchell and Hough
bays, in which vessels may anchor in 6 or 8 fathoms. Donegal head, its
cast point, is high, cliffy, bordered by a beach, and the tide runs strong in
its vicinity. Dickenson point, on the south side of the island, 7 miles west-
ward from Donegal head, is connected to Haddington island by a bar, with
only 6 feet on it in some parts.

Trinity bay, on the north side of Malcolm island between Lizard
and Boulder points, is an open bay 2^ miles wide and one niilc deep.
Between the points of the bay tho water shoals steeply from 40 fathoms to
a ledgo having 10 fathoms on its outer edge, but which again shoals
rapidly, and is covered with kelp.

Anchorage may, with care, bo picked up on tho outer edge of this
ledge, in 7 fathoms, with Lizard point bearing E. by N. and Black bluif
S.W. by \V., 2 cables outside the kelp ; but it is exposed to winds from
tho westward, between North and S.W.

Kelp patch.. — Foul ground marked by kelp extends half a mile off
tho west side of Malcolm island; and 1 J miles W.N.W. from Pultenoy
point, its south-west extreme, is a shoal patch of 4^ fathoms, also marked
by kelp. .i' . . r '

Directions. — Passing through Broughton strait from the eastward,
when abreast Boavor cove, in mid-channel, a W. ^ S. course, to pass not
more than 2 cables south of Cormorant island, will keep a vessel clear to
the northward of Nimpkish bank, and when tho west point of Cormorant
island bears N. by K. she will bo westward of it; then steer to round the
south-west point of Haddington island within a quarter of a mile, to avoid
tho lodge off Le<lgo point, and when tht> north shore of Cormorant island

220

STRAIT OF GEOUOIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [ciui'. vi.

ojieiiH of Hiiddington island beiiriiifj E. by N. ^ N., a vessel may steer
out of the Mtrnit in mid-channel. None, except small cmft, should go
to the northward of Haddington island.

Sailing vessels of any size would find it tedious to beat through this
strait, and as there are several dangers it is not recommended to do so.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND is an extensive arm of the
sea, connecting the inner waters north of "Vancouver island with the
Pacific. Its length is upwards of 30 miles, running in an easterly direction,
and its breadth vaiies from 10 to 20 miles, being bounded on the north by
the shores of the mainland of British Columbia, and on the south liy the
north shore of Vancouver island. In the north and north-east parts are
innumerable rocks and islands; but along its southern sides are two broad
and navigable channels to the Pacific.

liroughton strait enters this sound at its south-east part. From thence
to Thomas point the coast of Vancouver trends W. by N. for 9 miles, and
is low; it is bordered the whole distance by a beach composed of sand
and boulders, and foul ground marked by kelp extends off it, from one-
quarter to half a mile.

If intending to enter Beaver harbonr from the eastward, do not
approach this shore within a mile till near Thomas point ; and as l)Ut
very few soundings have been obtained in this part of Queen Charlotte
sound, if beating to windward, great caution ought to be observed when
standing to the northward.

SU QUASH ANCHORAGE.*— At 7 miles west from port
McNeill, the south shore of Queen Charlotte sound is bordered by shoal
ground, extending 4 cables off, and on which anchorage may Ixi had in from
2^ to 4 fathoms. Care, however, must be observed when anchoring here,
as reefs which dry at low water and shoal patches lie scattered about.

There is a coal mine here and a pier for loading at.

AncllOrEge. — The best berth is with the pier head bearing S.W. | W.,
distant 2^ cables, in 2^ fathoms water; half a mile from the pier on the
same bearing the depth is 7 fathoms.

TidOS. — It is high water, full and change, at 8u quash anchorage at
Oh. 30ni. ; springs rise 16 feet.

BEAVER HARBOURjt on the south side of the sound, miles
westward of Bronghton strait, is 3 miles wide at entrance and 2 miles deep.
The harbour is protected by several islands lying across, and within the
entrance ; il-s shores are low, anil fro.m the south shore a bank extends off

• Sec plan of Su (juash anchorage on Admiralty chart, No. 581 ; scale, m
t Sec Admiralty plan of Beuver harbour, No. 2,067 ; scale, m == 3 incbef.

a inches,

CHAP. VI.] QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. — BEAVEll HARBOUR.

221

3 or 4 cnbles ; a sliort distance inland from its western side are seven
remarkable hills, varying in height from 400 to 640 feet. There is good
anchorage in the south and west parts of the harbour, but north-easterly
winds send in a heavy sea, rendering it impossible to land in ships' bofits
on the south shore for days together.

On the south sshore i» fort Rupert, formerly a Hudson Bay Company's
trading post, and which existed as such for many years in charge of a
chief (rader; but the company have now abandoned it. The fort wu.s
formerly u strong .'stockaded structure, mounting cannon, but it is now
rapidly falling into decay.* Adjacent to it is a small quantity of clear land,
also a very fine gardtai, where fruit, and vegetables common to the climate,
were formerly grown in great abundance. In the vicinity ot the fort is a
large native village. I/anding here is bad, owing to the beach extending out
shoal for some distance, and the bottom is very foul.|

In the vicinity of Beaver harbour the yellow cypress abounds ; it i.^ also
found on all parts of the north coast of Vancouver island, and at intervals
on the main land from Knight inlet westward.

This tree yields lumber of the finest texture, very hard and durable
(good for boats), it is possessed of a peculiarly pleasant odour, and repels
the attack or presence of the teredo navalis : on this account it is highly
prized by the cabinet makers, and the ship builder.

Thomas point, the south-east extreme of the harbour, is low and
rocky ; some rocks lie upwards of 2 cables off it to the westward. The
channel between it and Deer island is about 4 cables wide, with from 13 to
6 fathoms, and clear of danger.

Moffat rock, S cables to the westward of Thomas point, is 3 cables
oflT shore, just at the outer edge of the bank, and uncovers at low water.

Deer island, two-thirds of a mile north of Thomas point, is about I^
miles in circumference, wooded, and about 240 feet high ; its shores are
rocky, and extending nearly 4 cables off its north-west part is a reef
marked by kelp, witli only 9 feet water over it. Eagle island lies close
oflf its 8()uth-c;ist point, with a small rock, 15 feet high, not more than a
quai-ter of a cable from its southern extremity.

Twin rock lies midway between Round and Peel islands; a reef extends
for more than one cable from its east and south ends, the latter being
nearly connected with the shoal extending from the north end of Deer
island.

♦ Commander Stanley, R.N., H.M.S. Petrel, 1878.

t Karthquakc ut fort Rupert ou 25th August 1865 at 9.10 p.m. A strong earth-
quake shock occurred \»hich caused II. M. surveying vessel Beaver, at anchor in
1 2 fathoms, to tremble violently. The night was clear, calm, and cool. Great con<-
stornation was caused amongst the natives at the Indian village. This shock was also
felt simultiineously at the head of Rupert arm in Quatsino sound on the west coast.

222

STRAIT OF JEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [ciur. vr.

Round island, l>ftlf » milt^ N. by E. of Deer iHland, is small, but
high, ami conspicuous from the eastward.

Peel island, 200 feet high, in the north part of Beaver harbour, is
three-quarters of a mile long S.W. and N.E., about one-third of u mile
broad, and between it and the west shore of the harbour is a passage
2 cables wide in the narrowest part, with 17 fathoms water ; at 4 cables
north of it are the Charlie islets, small, and two in number. There is a
good channel into the harbour close along the cast side of Peel island, which
is stocp-to.

Cattle islands, which lie in the middle of the harbour, arc small
and connected with each other at low water, and at li| cables, N.N.W. of
the islands, there is a shoal of 3 fathoms.

Shell islet. — At l^ cables south of them is Shell islet, the observa-
tion spot on its top is in lat. 50° 42' 3G" N., long. 127° 25' 07" W. ;
a reef awash at high water lies one cable south of it.

Cormorant rock, ly>"g one-third of a mile off the western shore
of the harbour, and nearly half a mile west of Shell islet, covers at high
water, and has from 4 to 6 fathoms close-to ; midway between this rock
and Cattle islands is a shoal patch of S\ fathoms.

Dc&daluS passage, leading from the west part of Beaver harbour to
the northward, is 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and has not less than
17 fathoms in mid-channel. Tho mid-channel course should carefully
be preserved, especially in the narrowest part west of Peel island where
the deep channel is only about 1^ cables wide.

Dillon point, the north-west extreme of the harbour, and separating
it from Hardy bay, is bold and rocky ; some small islets lie to the south-
east of it close in shore.

Directions. — Beaver harbour is easy of access to sailing vessels as
well us steamers. There are three passages into it, but the southern between
Thomas point and Deer island is the best, and generally used. This
channel is wide enough for a vessel to beat tlirough ; and the only caution
reqiiired in entering it, is not to round Thomas point nearer than 2 cables
in order lo avoid the rocks off its north-west part, after passing which steer
for Shell islet.

If entering the harbour by tho Da?dalus passage, fateer in mid-channel ;
passing between Cormorant rock and the 3^ fathom shoal I^ cables
eastward of it. A sailing vessel could not easily work through it, however,
as the breadth abreast Peel island contracts to about 1^ cables.

Anchorage. — Anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms about 2 cables soiith-cast
from Shell islet, with fort Rupert bearing S.S.E. and Thomas point East,
or E. by N. Good anchorage in from 6 to 9 fathoms, and bett'jr sheltered
from all winds, may be obtained westward of the Cattle islands : but in
rounding Shell islet give it a berth of about 2 cables to avoid the reef
south of it.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Beaver harbour at
Oh. 30m.} springs rise 16|, neaps 11^ feet.

OHAV. VI.]

HARDY BA.Y. — BARONET PASSAGE.

223

HARDY BAY, to tlio westward of n»>aver harbour nnd only Bopa-
rated from it by Dillon poin , indents tho coast in a southerly direction for 4
miles ; its breudi it tho entrance is two miles, narrowing to tho head, where
it torminntoH in a viarrow crook 1^ miles long, and 2 to 4 cables broad, with
a sand-bank extending otF its head for three-quarters of a mile. Tho shores
of the bay are rugged, and oft' tho west side, near tho heml, are some out-
lying rocks. Tho depths in the outer part of tho bay vary fn u 100 to 40
fathoms, and there is no anchorage, except in the small creek at the head,
whuh is difficult of access, u.^d should not be used by a stranger.

Mastorman islands, off the north-east point of the bay, abont
three-quarters of a mile from tho shore, are small, moderately high, wooded
and four in numb, r; foul ground exists between tliem and the shore.

The eastern shores of QUEEN CHARLOTTE

SOUND consist of an nndiipelago* 12 miles in length, extending from
llunson island (sec page 21.3) on tlio south, to tho entrance to Fife sound
on the north. Between the numerous islands, islets, and rocks which form
this archipelago, are many narroAV channels leading to tho entrances of
extensive chasm-like inlets, in which the water is of great depth md whoso
shores rise in almost sheer precipices to a height of from 5,(XK) to G,(XX)
feet, and further inland to stupendous peaks, clad in perpetual snow. Down
the barren, rugged sides of these mountains rush numberless cataracts,
caused by the melting snow. The intense dreariness and gloom in these
inlets, and the almost entire absence of life, cause them to present a most
unnatural and weird aspect. ., ,

BARONET PASSAGE.— From Blakcney passage (see page 218)
along tho north shore of Cracroft island, between it and Harblodown
island is a narrow channel 6 miles long, known as Baronet passage. At
this distance it splits into several small passages, lying between many small
islands, islets, and rocks, the navigation of which must be undertaken with
considerable caution. i . • , .t "

Kelp rocks lie just within the entrance to Baronet passage, on the
north shore, and extend over 2 cables off shore in some places, two of them
uncovering at low water 8 and 3 feet respectively ; they leave a channel
1^ cables wide along the south shore in which is a depth of 10 fathoms.
From here the passage is clear as far as Channel island, 4 miles from the
entrance, and maintains an uniform depth of 8 fathoms. Tho channel on
cither side of Channel island is lose than ono cable wide, that to the north-
ward being the deepest.

Steamer passage, between the islands above mentioned, as lying
6 miles from the entrance to Baronet passage, is ono cable wide, with

• The Broughton archipelago of Vancouver. Sec Vancouver's Voyayet, Vol. I.

224

STRAIT OF OEOUOIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

depths of 10 to 15 fathoms in It. Great care must be observe;! vhon
passing titrougli Steamer jxissage, as a diingerouH rock, awaHJi at low
wafer, iips n little over 2 cables N.N.W. of it.

CLIO CHANNEL, the continuation of Baronet passage, to the
north-east along tlie nortli side of Crucroft island, between it and Turnour
island, and communicating with Knight inlet, is 7 miles long, and clear of
danger throughout, with the exception of the Negro rock (awash at low
water), lying in the fairway half a mile HW. by W. from Sambo head, and
to avoid wliich the soutli-east shore of Turnour ishmd siiould b(! kept on
board ttt about 2^ ciiMes distant, 'i'honce the passage out into Kniglil
inlet is clear and safe.

Lagoon cove, » small sheltered nook on the north side of Double
islands, 2 miles to the south-east of the junction of Clio channel with
Knight inlet, affords anchorage for a small vessel in 10 fathoms. When
entering, pass in mid-channel between the north shore of Double islands
and a small round island northward of them, but do so with caution. From
the liead of Lagoon covo a chain of lakes connect the cove with port Harvey
{see page 213).

HARBLEDOWN ISLAND, forming the northern shore of
Baronet passage, is 6^ miles long, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and
3 miles across at its broadest part, its highest elevation (over Baronet
passage) being 1,240 feet.

Parson bay, on the west side of Ilarbledown island, is a spacious
bay l^ miles deep in an easterly direction, and three-ciuartcrs of a mile
wide, shoaling gradually from 30 fathoms just inside tlus entrance to
14 fathoms at its bend.

AucllOrage "'"y he obtained in 14 fathoms, mud, at the head of
Parson bay, in the soutii-east corner, well sheltered from all but westerly
winds blowing down Blackfish sound, in which direction it is open.

Compton island, three-quarters of a mile long east and west, is
3S0 feet high and triangular in shape. It is separated from Hai-bledown
island by White Beach passage. In a bay on the south side ia an oUl
village.

Berry island, to th« north-east of Compton island, ia nearly one
mile long and forms the east side of Farewell harbour.

Lewis island is separated from Berry island by Village passage ; it is
2i miles long, and forms the north side of Farewell harbour, and the
entrance to Knight inlet lies along its northern shore.

BLACKFISH SOUND, between the north .:e of Hanson
island and Swaiison island, has an aveiage width of . miles, and leads

oiup. VI.] BLACKPI8H SOUND. — PAllBWELL UA.RBOUB. 225

from Queen Clmrlotto Hound into Porson bny and lUakcnoy pASHAgo to tho
Houth-ooat, and to Farewell harl)Oiii- iind Wliite neach pasHage to the
northward. Tiiere is deep water all over the oouud, and it ia entirely free
from dangers.

SwanSOn island, t'oi'ming the north shore of Blackflsli sound, in
2^ miles long, east and west, and one mile wide, with regular bold shores,
an<l only one or two sniall indentatiuns. Harbour cone, at its east end, is
510 feet high. Numerous small islets and reefs lie off' the north shore of
the island for the distance of nearly one mile.

Freshwater bay, on the south side of Swanson island, about 4 cables
to the westward of the southern entrance into KareweU iiarbour, afFords
anchorage for small vessels in 6 fathoms, but it is exposed to southerly
winds.

FAREWELL HARBOUR,* formed between the east shore of
Swanson island on the west, Lewis island (on the north). Berry island (on
the ojist), and Conijiton island (to the south), is a snug anchorage for n
small vessel, half a mile across in every direction. Its approaches, how-
over, both from the northward anil southward, are only half a cable wide,
that to the uoithward from the main entrance to Knight inlet (between
Swanson and Lewis islands) being obstructed by the Twilight reefs and
several islets lying half a mile outside it. Entering through North passage,
Charles point (the west entrance point), kept touching Maggy point (the
southern point of North passage on the eastern shore), bearing S.S.E.,
clears the Twilight reefs, passing eastward of them.

The southern entrance, named West passage, between Punt rock and
Apples island (lying close to the shore of Swanson island), and the Star
islands lying off the north-west shore of Compton island, leads out of
Blackfish sound and must be approached with caution, as shoal ground
extends 2 cables in a south-west direction from the latter islands, having on
its extreme a depth of 4 fathoms, leaving a passage to the east of Punt rock
only half a cable wide,

Twilight rock, awash at high water, lies 7 cables N.W. by N.
from Charles point (the north-west entrance point of Farewell harbour),
and 2 cables W. ^ N. from it is Chick reef, one cable in extent, and
drying 4 feet. To the westward of the above dangers is a group of small
islets and reefs extending along the whole of the north shore of Swanson
island to the distance of nearly a mile from it.

Directions. — The southern entrance, which should only Ikj taken
by a small vessel, should be approached on a N.K. ^ N. bearing, passing

* See pliin of FarewvU hurlxmr on Admiralty chart, No. 581 ; Hcn'.e, tH='2-5 inches.
A 17498. r

226

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAtE SCOTT. [.miai-. vi.

three-quarters of a cable from Bare rock (10 feet high) ivt the enat side
of Freshwater bay, 2^ cables S.W. from Punt rock ; on tliis bearing
Stripe island, a small island on the north shore of the harbour, Hhould be
seen midway between Apples and Star islands. When abreast of Apples
island hnul gradually to the eastwar*! and anchor in 18 fathoms in the
middle of the harbour, with north point of Star islands bearing W. by S. ^ S.
and Mu<,'gy point N. V)y W. j^ W., distant 1^ cables from Compton island.

jr it am be clearly mtule out, the north extreme of Kamux island ot)en
a little north of the north-west Star island, bearing N.E., will clear the
shoiil ground extending south-west of the Star islands.

TidOS. — Jt is high water, full and cluuigc, in J'arowell harbour at 1 hr. ;
springs rise 15 feet, neaps 8 feet.

Village passage, between Lewis and Berry islands, is a narrow but
apparently clear channel 1^ cables wide, leading out from tlu! north-east
part of Farew ell harlH)ur, nortii of the Carey group, to Native anchorage.

White Beach p8<8Sage, Iwtween Compton island and the north-
west point of llarbledow.j island, is in its narrowest part only 80 yards
across, and nmst be used v.'ith great caution. This p{UiSiige also l..iuls up
through Indian passage, soutb of the Carey group, to Native anchorage.

Village island) <i miles long and 787 feet high, is situated 2 milea
to the eastward '>f Lewis island, ami is l>ounded on the north by Knight
inlet and separated from Tumour island on the south-east by Canot^ passage.
The space between Lewii. island and Village island is occupied by
the Indian islands. A narrow paf*8, Elliot passage, leads into Knight inlet,
between the easternmost of these islands and V^illage island.

Carey group, a chain of several small islands lying to the southward
of the Indian islands, and stretching iicross from Berry island to Turnour
island, a distance of 3 miles.

Turnour island i» 9 miles long I*].N.E. and W.S.W., and at its centre
.i miles wide, narrowing towards its extremities ; at its eastern end it is
1,5hO feet high. It is separated from Ilarbledowu islan<l on the south by
Beware passage., Clio channel running along its south-east side, and Knight
inlet along its north-west side the junction of these two pa.s8ages taking
place ut Bold blufif, its north-east point. *

Native anchorage. — At the south-west end of Village island is
Miimalilacullu village, and at the mouth of a small bay to the south-east-
wurd of it, at the entrance to Canoe passage, is Native luichorage, with
from ? to 8 fathoms water. Hail islands, two small islets, lie to the boutli-
ward of it, and Chart and Cecil islets to the westward.

Beware passage, iyi"g Ix'tween the north-east shore of Harblwlown
island and the south-wen. shore of Turnour island, leads from N-'vo

■.

CIIAl". Vt.]

KNIGHT INLET.

227

nnchorage eastward into Clio channel. Though tlie greater part, of it is
clear, vciisels cannot paaa throiigli it into Clio channel, owing to a harrier of
islets and rocks which stretch right across it, at one mile from its junction
with that channel. An Indian village (Karlukwees) is situated on
Tumour island at the eastern entrance to Beware passage.

Canoe passage •» « narrow pass leading from Native anchorage
along the soiiiii-east shore of Village itJancI, l)etwoen it and Tumour i.sland.
At two miles up it is completely (dosed .i. low water hy a stony harrier
which dries right across, and it is only available for cauoes at high water.

KNIGHT INLET.— The Main Entrance to this inlet,

which is one ut the most extensive of the sea canals of British Columbia,
lies northward of Swanson, Lewis, and. Village ii<lands, between them
and Midsutumor island and several smaller islands and rocks. Off the
entrance the water shoals, forming a bank on which there is from 20 to .30
fathoms, but deepening again as Cold point (the west point of Swanson
island) is passtnl. Inside Bold point the depths arc irregular from 81- to
over 10 fathoms, but to the eastward of Village island the water deepens to
more than 1(X) fathoms.

The main entrance to Knight iidet lies 3^ miles E.N.E. from DonegiU
hea*l, the cast extreme of Malcolm island, and may bo e^isily recognised by
White Cliff islands, a chain of small islets of a whitish colour situated on thn
nortluirn side of the passage into the inlet. The entrance between Wedge
island on the north, and the north-weat shore of Swanson island on the
south, is 3^ cables ivide, and oloar of dangei', but farther east Twilight
reefs and Clo<'k rock must be avoided ; tlie former is I^ miles, and the latter
5 miles frc.r i Wt'dge island, The,s<i dangers sliould Imj passed to the north-
waid, and Juiublf island, lying l)et\vcen them, to the southward, after
which a mid-channel course should be preserved until ejist of Lady islands,
when the shores of (he inlet may be a|)proached to within a moderate
distance. The entrance proper to Knight inlet, between Warr blutf on
the south and Slope point on the north, is thrwi-epiurters of a mile wide,
nud 5^ miles from Wedg'.^ island. From hence the inlet tren'.N in a
general K.N.E. direction for 33 miles, and then turns suddenly to the
northward for 20^ miles to its termination, with an avomge width through-
out of 1 4 miles. The shores of the inlet arc generally bold, antl formed by
high mountains rising precipitously from the water's edge, and down the
sides of which rush many cataracts pro»luced by the dissolving snow. The
water is everywhere deep, except at a s|»ot about 7 miles eimtward of
Sargeaunt passage, where a rocky ridge was found to extend neross the
inlet, and on which there are heavy overfalls, but no less depth tlum
23 fathoms was oltlained. There are but few places that afford anchorage ;
port I'jli/.abetli on Ihe north shore, and (llendale cove on the south being
the only two that may be considered i\\ailnl)le. At 11^ miles cast of Slope

V 2

228

STR/VIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[Olt^i'. VI.

point Tribnrio channel branches off to the northwanl, and embracing
Gilford island, connects with Fife «onnd ami Sutlej channel, which diverg-
ing on either sitle of Broughtoa island, lead into Queen Charlotte aoiind,
the former 7 miles N.N.K. and the latter 15 miles N.W. by W. ^ W.
from the entrance to Knight inlet.

On the south side, Knight inlet is connected with Johnstone strait by
two passages, viz., Clio cliaiuiel and liaronet passage, and Chatham aiu!
Havannaii channels, whieli turn oil" at 10 miles from tlie entrance on either
sidy of Minstrel island, the former to i\v' south-westward and the latter
winding first to the south-cast, and then to the south.

Tides. — The tides at the entrance to Knight inlet run at the rate of
from one to 3 knots.

W^edge island, « small round island two cables in extent, lies
3.^ cable> to the N.N.VV. of the north-west shore of Swanson island, the
chani:c! i'lto Kniglit inlet lying between them ; it is clear of danger,
and may be boldly steered for, passing in mid-channel iMstween Wedge
island and tlie small islets lying close to the shore of Swanson island.

White Cliff islands. — Fioni \Ve<lge island at the nmin entrance
to Knight inlet a line of -tmall islets, named White Cliff islands, extentis
for over a nule in a N.W. ^ N. direction with patches of sht)al water
between. A i-ock awash at high water lies nearly one cable iiorth-weHtwanl
from the northern islet.

White Cliff islands are the key to the entrance to Ivnight inlet, amongst
a number of islands all of the same size and colour (pine trees).

These islands l)y their colour, as indicated !iy their name, form a very
conspicuous object, and would be most useful for a stranger to identify the
entrance to the main channel ol' the inlet.

The southern White Cliff island is situated in latitude oO 38' 40" N.,
longitude 120' 4f 20" W.

Surge rocks arc a small group of rocky islets lying 3 cables
N.N.K. from Wedge island.

Midsummer island, seimrating Knight inlet from Spring passage,
is 6'>0 feet higii, 3 miles long, and one mile wide.

Owl island, one. mile in length, east and west, and about half a mile
broad, lies oil' the west end of Midsummer i.sland, with a narrow pas.'-age
(Providence passage) between them.

Passage islet >« » small vour»d islet, about midway between the
Surge rocks an<l the »bore of Owl island. From the northern islet of the
White Cliff islands another channel leads into Knight inlet on either side
of I'assage ish'l.

Twilight reefs, which uncover only 4 feet at low-water springs,
lie one mile E. by N, ^ N. from the nuun entrnnce to Kuigbt inlot, at

CHAP. VI.]

KNIGHT INLET.

221)

from one to I^ nmbles northward of a group of smtill islets on the south
bidn of ihu chaiinul. To dear them keep Const cono (ii conical hill on
the north-west shore of Village island) in line with the south shore of
Jumble island, iM-aring N.E. hy E. J E. (easterly).

Jumble island i« half a mile long (east aud west), and lies 2 miles
E.N.E. from Wedge island. On its west side is Night islet, and off ita ea«t
point, lie the three small IJuah islets. When within 2 cables of Night islet
.haul to the eastward to psiss at that dist<inco southward of it. Jumble
island, and the Hu^h islets.

Indian islands he on the south side of Knight inlet, between ix^wis
aud Village islands. Between them are sovei^^i' small channels leading to
Native anchorage (see page 226), but only the easternmost, Elliot passHge,
is navigiible, and that only by small vessels.

Clock rock, which covers at half-flood, lies 2^ cables north of liie
oasttM'nmoi-t of the IiuUan i^^land.H, and is espeeially dangerous to vessels
going through Ell )t passafju. To cle-ir it keep the coast of Village island
on board at 2 cables distance.

Leading mark — Passing up or down Knight inlet, the Cock rock
may be safely passeci by keeping Leading; point (on the north shore)
in line with Ripple 'dufF (the north extreme of Village island) iKMiring
N.E. by E. i E.

Ridge islands lie on the north side of Knight inlet between the casl
end of Midsummer island and the s-outh-west shore of Gilford island, at the
entrance (from Knight inlet) of Spring passage.

A rock which dries H feet af, low water, lies 3 cables from the shore
of Gilford island ; it is, however, out of the fairway of vessels |)assir)g tip
and down Knight inlet, but should be carefully avoided by tl.o.'^c passing
through Spring passage.

Chop bay '» »■ small bight on the north side of Knight inlet opposite
ilipplo bluft".

Tide rip. — Heavy tide rips occui off Ripple bluff, and between it and
Leading point, on the opposite shore, the tidal stream runs at a rate of fron)
2 to 3 knots an hour.

Lady islands, situated 3 miles north -eastward of Leading point, the
largOBt of which is one mile long, but narrow, with several ^mnll islot.-i
lying off their west extreme, consist of two islands with ileep water on both
•ides of them.

PORT ELIZABETH.— Norlh-wcHtrard of the l.udy iplnnds n
large bight branches olf to the north west, curving roun<l to tbo south-we.it
and opening out at its head, forming a sheltered anehoriigf named port

230

STIIAIT or GEOllQIA TO CArE SCOTl'. [chap. vi.

Elizabeth, about one milo in extent ; but which i», however, somowliut
contracted by two saittll islands lying in the middle.

Duck cove, to the south-west of these small islands, forms thu termiuution
of the port, a flat dries off its head nearly half a milo.

The entrance to port Elizabeth is one mile wide, contracting gradually
to 3^ cables at 1^ miles inside. In this channel the water is deep, but
having passed the nan'owest part of the entrance channel, the depths shoal
to 25 fathoms, and thence gradually to the shores of the port.

AncllOra/gB miy bo taken up as convenient in the sonthcrn part of
the port in from 9 to 4 fathoms ; the latter depths being found south of
the eastern ishind, midway between it and the shore.

Minstrel island, lying to the eastward of Turnouv island, tit
the junction of Clio and Chatham channels with Knight inlet, is
1,.530 feet high, and If miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and oneniiio wide.
Between the south side of Minstrel island and tlie opposite shore of Cracrofl
island a deep bight is formed, in the centre of which is Double islanck, two
small islets connected at low water witii each other, and also with Iho
shore to the eastward, forming to the northward Lagoon cove, 2J cables
wide, and in which there if anchorage in 10 fathoms (sec page 221). At
the head of the cove there is a chain of lakes lending to port Ilarvf y.

Chatham channel, on the south side of the inlet, 3^ miles east-
ward of the Lady islands, has its entrance between White Nob point
(Minstrel island) and Littleton point, where it is over half a mile wi<le.
Thence the channel takes a south-easterly direction, and gradually
contracting in width and shoaling, it, at 4 miles from the entrance, joins
the head of Havannah ciiannel.

Cutter creek, « narrow bight on the east shore of Chatham channel
1^ miles dedp, in a north-east direction, terminating in marshy land
bordered by a sand-flat,would afford anchorage to a small vessel in 6 fathoms,
but caution must be observed when entering, as a small islet (Block islet)
lies in mid-chann<'l at (tntrance, leaving a passage less than one cable wide
on each side of it, that to the south being the best.

She well island, lying on the north side of Knight inlet, 2 miles
from the entrance to Chatham channel, is 1^ miles long (north-east and
south-west) and 280 feet high ; it lies at the southern entrance to Tribune
channel, which it divides into Clapp and Nickoll passages, both being clear
of danger {sec page 239).

Viscount island, forming the liiastoni side of the southern
<;nirauc« to Trihune clian'iel, is 1,950 feet high, 3 miles long north and
south, and one mile wide.

oiur, VI.]

KMGU.'. INLET.

2ax

■♦

Sargeaunt passage (Pumish), one milo east of Nickoll pa>:sa{;o, is
a uaiTow pass on tho euut Hide of Yidcount i»lau(l 2j miles long, and
coQituuuicates with Tribune channel.

TidOS. — It is high r/ater, full and change, in Sargoannt p.-wsagc at
Ih. Om. ; springs rise 15^ feet, neaps 12 feot.

AnctLOrage. — F"i'' anchorage may ho obtained on either side of tlie
passage. It is contracted (o 220 yards, whoro the dopdi is 1 1 futhoins at
low water. The least water in the kelp patch is 3^ fathoms.

Toa ko nu cove, on the south side of the inlet round Protection,
point, is probably too deep for anchorage.

Hoeya SOUUd, on tho north shore of Knight inlet, 7 miles from
Protection point, is a bight half a mile wi<k', indenting the coii!** in a
N.E. by E. direction. There arc depths of over 40 fathoms over the greater
iwrt of tho sound, but it shoals yuddonly to o fathoms at l^ cables from
its head.

Prominent point, on the soijth shore of Knight inlet, opposite the
entrance to Hoeya sound, has a rocky ridge of less water than in the centre
of tho inlet, extending northward froni it, on which there aie heavy
overfalls ; the least ilepth obtained during the survey was 23 fathoms.

Knight inlet, from Prominent point, trends in a N.E. by E, A E.
direction for 11 miles, still maintaining its great depth of watei-, but
narrowing at that distance to only a little over ouc mile i.crost from Sallic
point to Macdonald point.

Glendale cove (Kiokh), ou the south shore of the iulet, inmiedialely
ca.stward oi" MacdonuM point, takes a .S.S.E. iJirection for 1^ milos, mid is
three-quarters of a milo wide at its entrance. It dries about half its length,
anil tho water in the remainiug part is tteep.

A river flows into the hea<l of Glethtale cove from a sheet if water one
milo di.-tant, niuncti Toui Hrowne lake, about 5 miles long, which extends
nearly to li. - bend o! Topaze harbour.

Anchoraipe '"ay» "with care, bo taken up in tht- south-east <!orner in
23 fathouiis Willi the right extreme of Oliservatiou point in line with Hapid
hill, aihl R larg- boulder on west sitle in lino with the junction of Flora
and Maodonaltl ridgt-s, but the bank is very steep-to.

Knlgbt mlet, i'rom ClUnulale cove, winds in a general northerly
ilirectiou h.v 20 miles tu Axe point, and has a nearly uniform width of
2 mile- Kii'jrnout thi?' distitnce. The mountains on Iwth sides attain an
nltitude oi" from ."».<v>^ to '-. ;ind (he depth of water is very great,

their l)«ing nn ' u?' •• '■ ; n mul-eliimuel.

fllif'JwfWI ip*«Pipi«W*i

232

STKAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTl'. [chap. vi.

Glacier. — On the east shore, ut 14 miles from the head, over a gully,
under Glacier peak, there is a remarkable glacier a short distance from the
aea. Anchorage was tried for, but no bottom was obtained at one cable
from the shore with 40 fathoms of line.

From Axe jioint the inlet irends ne irly straight in a north-west direction
for a further distance of 8 miles, the total length of this peculiar chasm
being 65 miles. At its head it somewhat widens, but maintains us great
depth close up to the mud flat, which extends about half a mile from the
shore of the marshy ground at the foot of the valley in which Kuight inlet
terminates. In the valley near a stream is Tsiiuwati village, frequented
during the summer months by large numbers of Indians for the purpose of
making fish oil. Mount Blair, immediately over the head of the inlet,
attains an altitude of 6,550 feet.

Wah Shih las. — At 4^ miles from the head of Knight inlet on the
west shore affords the only place where an anchor could bo dropped,
and by securing to the trees by a hawser, in a '^';pth of 39 fathoms close
to the south shore, on west side of the bay.

Piro islands* consisting of one large and four small islets, lie close
to the west end of Owl island.

Escape, Canoe, and House islands.— From the west end of

Midsummer island several small islands extend in a north-west direction
for l\ miles, with rocks between some of them. The largest, Escape
island, lies close off the shore of Midsummmer island. House island, tlio
norlh-west of the group, is merely a round rock, bu^ reefs extend over
2 cables east and west from it.

Sedge, Start, and High islands are the southern and largest
of numerous small islands, islets, and rooks lying off the south-west end of
Bon wick island. Several p«t/:he3 of rock lie off and between them, but a
clear passage, half a mile wide, exists between Sedge islands and House
island, leading into Retreat passage.

Green rock, 25 feet high, lies l-j'fy miles E.N.E. from House island ;
another small rock lying 1^ cables westward of it.

Spring passage, between the south-west end of Gilford island
and the north shore of Midsummer island, loailing from Retreat passage
into Knight inlet, is about half a mile wide, but at the eastern end the
channel is contracted by Broken islands to a width of 3 cables ; the passage
being to the north of those islands. Ridge islands lie across the eastern
entrance of the passage.

Retreat passage, an entrance to which, as above mentioned, lies
between House and Siidgo is^limds, extends in a northerly ilircction, between
Bonwick and Gilford islands, for 6 miles. Along the shore of Bonwjck

ClIAf. VI.]

RETUEAT AN1> CRAMER PASSAGES.

233

islnnd, which is bold-to, it is a clear navigable passngo ; but the eaatora
Bhoro is Hkirted by soveral smaU islaiulH, islets, and rocks, between which
a vessel should not pass.

SoabreOZO island >h the largest nnd moiit southern of the islands on
the eastern shore of Ketreat passage. Whale rock, 3 feet high, lies 4 cables
north-east from Seabreeze island, nearly midway between it sud Yellow
rock at the entrance to Health bay.

Health bay, on the eastern shore, a bight one mile deep in a south-
cost direction, may, however, be safely entered by patising in mid-channel
between the south end of Sail island (which lies off the entrance) and
Yellow rock, 2^ cables south of it, or midway between the latter and the
shore, when convenient anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms may be obt4iincd.
A narrow passage in the north-east corner of the bay communicates with a
lagoon.

On the east shore of Retreat passage, north of Sail island, ate the remains
of an Indian village.

Grebe cove, » narrow bight, one to 2 cables broad, on tho west shore,
extends one mile in a AV.S.W. direction, shoaling gradually from 18 fathoms
off its entrance, to 6 fathoms at its head.

Camp bay, on the east shore opposite Ore*'e cove, is too small, and
has too great a depth of water in.it, for anchoring in.

!P0X islands. — The north end of lletreat passage opens out into a
space about 2 miles arross, bounded by Mars and Traccy islands on the
west, IJaker island on the north, and Gilford island on the east. In the
middle of this space, extending right across from the north end of Bonwick
island to the south shore of Haker island, are the Fox inlands. There is a
clear channel east of the Fox islands up to the entrance of Cramer pnssnge,
passing midway between the eastern islet uf the chain and Solitary island.

CRAMER PASSAGE, between the south-east shore of Baker
island and north-west shore of Gilford island, loading from Kotreat passage
north-eastward into Fife sound and to Shoal harbour, is u clear navigable
channel, 2 cables wide at its soutliern entrance, iMitween Steep island and
Islet point ; from thence it extends 2 miles N.E. by E., and then turns
suddenly to the N. by W. for one mile to its junction with Fife .lound, the
width increasing to three-quarters of a mile. A sunken rock lies 1^ cables
west from Powell point, the north-east entrance point of the passage.

At the northern entr.ince, at the distance ofl^ cables from the wtst
shore, is a sand patch, about 2 cables in extent, with from to 16 fathoms
water on it. By preserving a mid-channel course the passage may bo
boldlv taken, •

231

STRAIT OF QEOllGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [ciiai-. m.

Shoal harbour, on 'ho east shore of Cramer piisaagc, in a narrow
inlet 1] miles long (east and west), to whieh access is gained by a channel
I.jO jards across from shore to shore, in some parts less than lO yards
wide between the 3-fathom lines, and in which there is a depth of only
3J fathoms. This channel is 3^ cables long in a sonth-easterly direction,
Mink point being its southern termination on the eastern side. The western
half of the harbour has only from one to 2 fathoms water over it, Imt over
the greater part of (he eastern portion there in a depth of 4 fathoms.
A bank whieh dries, iind through which flows a small stream, extends more
than a quarter of a mile from tho head of the eastern arm. Shoal harbour
is only safely available for small coasting vessels with local knowledge, but
in the event of its being necessiiry to <!nter, a small vessel may, with care,
do so by keeping at dO to GO yards from tlie eastern shore of the passage in,
and anchorage may be taken <ip in 4 fathoms abreast Mouse island (on tho
northern shore) about 1^ cables eastward of Mink point.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Shoal harbour at 1 hr. ;
si)ringa rise 15 feet, neaps 10 feet.

BONWICK ISLAND, forming the western shore of Ketreat
pnssngo, and the eastern ehoro of Arrow passage (the junction of these two
channels taking place at it.; northern point), is 3 miles long (north and
south), and 2 miles across, its highest part being about 770 feet. Ofl" its
south-west end, north of Sedge, Start, juid High islands {sec page 232),
it is skirted by numerous small islets and rocks, between whieh, near tho
shore of Bonwick island, shelter may bo found.

Dusky COVG,'* the anchorage above referred to, aflbrds anchorage in
G to B fathoms, about one cable eastward of Oove island, the largest of tho
islets. It is entered by a passage one cable wide between ledges of rock
(which extend in patches half a mile W.S.W. from Cove island) and a chain
of islets to the southward. Care must bo observed, when entering, to avoid
the reefs, which may be cleared by keeping the north point of tho small
Leaiing island at the hcrnl of the cove in hue with the north extreme of
South island, l)earing K. by N. ^ N.

The westernmost of the reefs above mentioned (Evening rocks) covers at
feet rise, and Ledge rock, tho outer of the islets on the south side of tho
channel, is only .'i feet above high water. Trap and South islands lie to tho
eastward of Ledgo rock, tho former being 2o feet high.

Fog islands are a small group lying off the shore of Bonwick island,
on the south side of tho ei\trance to Arrow passage. Evening rocks an
the ledges extending W.S.W, from Cove islaml, lie half a mile southward
of them.

* See plan of Dui*ky cove on Admiralty chart, No. 581 j schIo, m = 25 inches. It itt
high water, full and change, in Dusky cove at Ih. Om.; K|irinp« rJBc 13 feet.

,-1

,.1

ciiAi'. vi.J SHOAL JIAllBOUll. — AUKoVV PASSAGE, tfec. 2o')

HorsO rook, awash at low waUM-, is u dangerous rock lying oS
the north sido of llic outranco to Arrow pnsmigo, 8 cables \V. ^ S.
from tho wcstornmoHt Fog island, and 3 cjibloa S.S.E. from tho Coach
islandi^.

ARROW PASSAGE, botwcon Bonwick i- liind to tho Houth-cadt,
and IIudHon and Mars inlands on tho north-wost, is a clear imvi}?ul»lo
channel, in every part of which is deep water. Having pas^td Iho Ilorso
rock, tho pansugo maybe boldly paHsed through In niid-ciiannul, mid u vessil
may, if necessary, pasH westward of the Fox islands, and rounding tho
northern islet of that group at 1^ cables, pasts between it and Steep i^luud
(sec page 2;].'J), and enter Cromor passage.

The Coach islands t^ro u group of several small islands lying on
tho north side «)f the entrance to Arrow passage ; they extend over a
distance of three-quarters of a mile from the south-wcHt end of Hudson
Island.

Hudson island, on the north side of Arrow passage, north-east of
the Coach islands, is ono mile long, and 3. J cables broad.

Mars island, 2^ miles long, and tluoe-qnarters of a mile v/ide, lies
close to, and north-eastward of Hudson islandy on tho north shore of Arrow
passjige. Spiller passage, between it and Hudson island, leads out to the
north-west amongst tho islets on tho south-west side of Eden island, and
into Trainer and Philips passagew

Shrub, Kate, and Triangle islands, with some other small

islets, extend 1;^ miles from tho west end of Hudson island ; Shrub island
being tho smaller and westernmost of tho group.

SUNDAY HARBOUR.*— Between tho above-mentioned islands
and Crib island, to tlie north-west, a small but sheltered anchorage is
formed, affording rcfugo for small vessels. Tho western entrance is
between Shrub island and Huston island (a small islot lying 2 cables north
of it) and is clear of danger. Half a milo in, tho channel contracts to less
tiian one cable in width between Narrows island and Island point, between
which is a ridge with only 4^ fathoms on it, deepening again to 7 fathoms.
There is a passage out to the eastward loading into Spiller passage.

Anchorage ><hould be taken up in mid-channel as convenient, but
at not more than 3 cables from tho Narrows, in 5 fathoms, with Bush point
bearing N. ^ E., and north point of Kate ie'and shut in with Islund point.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Sunday harbour at 1 hr. ;
springs rise 13 feet.

* See plau of Sunday harbour ou Admiralty chart, No. 581 ; scale, m = 2-5 inchcti.

236

STRA.IT OF GEORGIA TO CAPiS SCOTT. [cuap. vi.

Crib island, forming tho nortli-wcBt shore of Sunday harbour, is
1 j inileH lung, and linlf a mile wide at its broadest part.

Eden island, forming tho south-eastern shore of the entrance to
Fife sound, is about 4 miles long (K.N.E. and W.S.W.)» and l^ miles
broad, and has some smaller islands and rocks oiT its western end. Its
south-west shore is a little more than half a mile northward uf Crib island,
and tho passage between them is divided, by a group of islets lying in
the centre, into two passages, tliat to the northward named Trainer, and
that to the southward Philips passage.

Marsden islands nrc a group of five islets lying to the eastward of
the two passages ; southward of them, towards Spiller passage, are several
other islets and rocks ; but to the north-west and north of them (along the
shore of PJden island) there is a clear channel to the nnrth-uast leading into
Joe cove (Eden island) and Misty passage, and thence northward through
Blunden and Old passages, on either side of Insect island, into Fife sound,
south of the Benjamin group {see page 238). These passages are, how-
over, very narrow, and ahoal in places, and are not navigable except by
small coasters.

Tracey island, IJ miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wi<le in
its broadest part, lies between the east ends of Eden and Mars islands.
Between it and Eden island is Misty passage.

Monday anchorage. — Between Tracey island and Mars island is
Monday anchorage, a sheltered position affording secure antlior.ige midway
between the shores of the above islands in about 8 fathoms.

Baker island, forming part of the southern shore of Fife sound and
the western side of Cramer passage, is situated eastward of Eden island,
the triangular-shaped island named Insect lying between them. It is
1,385 feet high, 4 J miles long E.N.E, and W.S.W., and l^ miles broad.

FIFE SOUND, bounded on the north by Broughton island, and on
the south by Eden, Insect, and Baker islands, and the Benjamin group lying
to the northward of them, and leading from C^ueen Charlotte sound to
Sutlej and Tribune channels and Kingcomc inlet, extends in a general
N.E. and E.N.E. direction for 8 miles, when the Burdwood group divides
it into two channels (Raleigh and Hornet passages) leading into Tribune
channel ; it has an average breadth of over one mile, and is a clear navi-
gable channel, with deep water throughout. Fife sound, between I'earse
peninsula and the Burdwood group, at H miles from its entrance, turns
suddenly to the westward and joins Penphrasc passage, which connects it
with Sutlej channel and Kingcome inlet. The hills bordering on the shores
of the sound rary from 600 to 1,500 feet in heighu

coAi: n.]

MFE SOUND. — OULLEN HARBOUR.

237

The enlruncc from Queen Cliarl(>tte Hound, Ijetwecn DiiCf island (south
shore) aad the entranco to Cullen harbour (north shore), may bo boldly
steered for, pasaiiig at about half a mile south-caHt of Gore rock (4 feet
high), which lies about one mile westward of the entrance.

Fife Hound may ai»o be entered by Cramer pasoage, which communicates
with Queen Charlotte sound by means of Retreat and Arrow passagen on
either side of Honwick iHland.

Foster island, the summit of which forms a remarkable cone about
270 feet high, lies about 5 miles S.W. by S. from the entrance of Fife sound.
OIF iti4 south side are the Twin islets (65 feet high), and off the north side is
a i)atch of kelp, wliich may possibly overlie a rocky danger. The Twin
islets lie 2.J miles N.N.K. ^ 10. from Li/.ard i)oint, the noitli-eoat entrance
point of Trinity bay (Malcolm island). Th^Mdmnnel between is called
George pa^siige, and is apparently free from danger.

Penfold island, covered with trees, Gf) feet high, and small, lies
\ljj miles eastward of Fo.ster island; the channel between Foster and
I'enfold has not l)een examined.

Holford islands, ly'"p? -^ niiles N. by E. from Foster island,
consi.st of two small islands, covered with trees, the tops of which are from
100 to 200 loet high. From the western island, u reef which uncovers
3 feet at low water, extends one-third of a mile to the westward, and the
islands in this direction should i>e given a berth of one mile. The passage
between Foster ishi'.ul and ITolfonl islands, known as the Salmon channel,
is clear of danger ; u mid-channel course should, however, be kept.

CULLEN HARBOUR,* «" the south side of Broughton island,
at the entrance to Fife sound, is formed between the shore of Broughton
island to the eastward, and sevj'ral islands lying off it to the westward,
and extends about 7 cables in a N.N.W. direction. Its entrance between
Nelly island and the shore westward of Gordon point is loss than one cable
wide, and, when entering, care should be taken to keep exactly in mid-
channel. Inside the harbour opens out to .3 cables wide, with depths of
from 4 to 8 fathoms.

At the head of the harbour, on the west tide, a narrow bnat passage,
through which the tide runs with great strength, l(>ads into Book(>r lagoon,
an extensive sheet of water about l\ miles in extent, with d<'pthe varying
from 12 to more than l.'S fathonjs. This lagoon has an outlet into Que. n
Charlotte sound to the westward of Long island, which forms the western
side of Cullen h'irbour.

Anchorage may l>e had, well sheltered, in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom,
at 1^ cables S. by E. from Davidson island at tin; head of the harbour.

• Ser plnn "f PtiUon hnrhonr on Admirnltv rhnrt, \o. !)7\ ; sealo, « = 8 iucbca.

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 87.i-4503

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238

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

LciiAi-. vr.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, inCullen harbour at 12 hrs. ;
springs rise 16 feet, neaps 7 feet.

Deep harbour,* on the north side of Fife sound, 7 miles within tho
entrance, is formed by a narrow inlet, which indents the coast in an E.N.E.
direction, forming on its south side Pearse peninsula. At its entrance is
Jumper island, 2 cables eastward of "i ich, and just north of two small
islets, is a reef, leaving a clear passage in along the north shore 2 cables
wide. The depths in the harbour vary fi-om 14 to 37 fathoms; but
anchorage may be found off a small bight on the south shore, in 18 fathoms,
at 3 cables south-westward of the narrow entrance to the bight, which
forms the head of the harbour.

Benjamin group, consisting of three islands and several smaller
islets and rocks, lie off the south shore of Fife inlet, opposite Deep harbour.
Indian passage, the narrow channel lying between them and the south shore,
has a shoal patch of I^ fathoms in it, and though otherwise apparently
clear of danger, should not be attempted.

Hugged island, lying l^ miles eastward of Gull rock (at eastern
extreme of the Benjamin group), has a rocky patch extending Lj^ cables
from its north-west side.

Pym rock, which uncovers 2 feet at low water, and is steep-to, is a
dangerous patch lying in the way of vessels entering Cramer passage.

Viner SOUnd,t '^n the south-eastern shore of Fife sound, about
3 miles north-east of Rugged island, indents the coast in an E.N.E. direction
for 3 miles, gradually narrowing from one mile at the entrance to 2 cables
wide at the head, from which a bank, drying at low water, extends half a
mile. Anchorage may be had in 10 fathoms at about three-quarters of a
mile from its head, abreast an old Indian village.

BurdWOOd group, consisting of six large and several small islands,
lies off the entrance to Viner sound. The largest, which is the north-
western one, is 700 feet high. Vessels should not pass between them.

Simoom sound, the entrance to which is 1^ miles N.W. from tho
Burdwood group between Deep Sea bluff on the east, and Pollard point
on the west, extends 1^ miles N.N.E. and then turns suddenly to West,
which direction it maintains for nearly 2 miles as far as Curtis point, where
the width decreases from half a mile to 2 cables, and the inlet bends to tho
south-west, expanding to a width of half a mile at its head, which is only
separated by a narrow neck of land from 120 to 150 feet wide from Shawl
bay, an indentation on the east side of Sutlej channel, and forming Wishurt
peninsula. The width of Simoom sound at the entrance is one-third of a

* It is liijrh water, full nnd change, in Deep harbour at noon ; springs rifto 16 feet,
ueaps 11 J feet.

t It is high wntcv. full nnd chnngo, in Viner sound nt Ih. Om, ; Bprings rise 15 feet,
ueaps 10 feet.

CHAP. VI.] SIMOOM SOUND. — TRIBUNE OH.A.NNEL. 239

mile, and on the eastern side, one mile from Deep Sea bluff, is the small islet
of Louisa. The water is deep, but whore the sound turns to the westward
it shoals to 40 and gradually to 20 fathoms, and to the south-westward of
Curtis point in O'Brien bay, decrease!? to 11 fathoms.

Ra/leigh. passage, to the northward of the Burdwood group, connects
Tribune channel with Fife sound and Sutlej channel; there is also a
pas.sage to the southward of the group called Hornet passage. There is
deep water in both these passages, but the former is the wider and tho
more direct.

Directions for FIFE INLET.— Entering from Queen Char-
lotte sound, steer to give Foster island and the Holford islands a berth of
at h^ast one mile, and pass half a mile south-east of Gore rock, which at
high-water spring tides is only 4 feet above svater (see p. 237), whence
steer boldly for the entrance, keeping as nearly as possible in mid-channel.
Thence a course of N.E. by N. for 2 miles, and then N.E. by E. for
2 miles, will take a vessel to about mid-channel between Pemberton point
and the western island of the Benjamin group, when haul to the eastward,
steering in mid-channel about E. by N. ^ N. until the southern island of the
Burdwood group opens out. From here the northern shore should be kept
at about half a mile distant, gradually hauling to the northward, and
passing between Nickless island (the small island at the east end of Pearso
peninsula) and Village point, the west extreme of the southern Burd-
wood island. If bound through Sutlej channel, haul to the north-west-
ward ; if through Tribune channel, steer to round the north-west island of
the Burdwood group at half a mile distant, and" then to the eastward.

TRIBUNE CHANNEL, the entrance to which from Fife
sound lies north-eastward of th" Burdwood group, extends in a north-east
direction for 10 miles ; it then takes a south-easterly and easterly direction
for 5 miles to the entrance of Thompson sound ; thence it turns to the
southward for 7 miles, communicating with Knight inlet {see page 227).
Throughout the greater part it maintains an average width of one mile,
but near Kwatsi bay, where the channel turns to the south-east, and again
i " at 2 miles within its southern entrance, it naiTOws to half a mile in width.

The water is deep throughout, the only danger being Humphrey rock, on
which is a depth of 3 fathoms, lying in mid-channel just south of the
southern narrows above referred to. Tribune channel has the same
characteristics as most of the other deep inlets on this coaat.

Kwatsi bay, on the north shore of Tribune channel, about 8 miles
eastward of the Burdwood group, indents the coasts for about 2 miles in a
northerly direction. The water in the southern part is very deep, brt

240

STRAIT OP GEOAGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

shcals at half a mile from the head of the bay to 28 fathoms, and gradually
to 13 luthoms.

Wah. ka na bay, on the south shore of Tribune channel, opposite to
Kwatsi bay, indents the shore of Gilford island in a south-westerly direction
for nearly 2 miles, varying from 2 to 4 cables in width ; the depth at
ab'.ut one mile within the entrance being 32 fathoms, and near the head
18 fathoms.

Bond sound, which indents the north shore of Tribune channel,
extends 3 miles in a northerly direction, and has an average width of
nearly one mile ; Bond sound, owing to the great depth of water in it,
affords no anchorage, there being 30 fathoms close alongside the mud bank
at its head, through which some streams enter the sound.

Thompson sound, 6 miles south-eastward of Bond sound, extends
in a north-east direction for 5 miles, its entrance being on the east shore
opposite TrafFord point, where Tribune channel turns to the southward.
At the head of the sound is Sackville island, and the Kakweiken river
flows into the sound northward of it. Between Sackville island and the
rmd flat off the rivei", the depths shoal, but rather steeply ; anchorage,
however, might with ease be picked up in the north-east corner, in 12
fathoms.

Humphrey rock, with 3 fathoms water on it, lies nearly in the
centre of the southern part of Tribune channel, abreast Bamber point, the
west salient point of Viscount island, and 2 miles to the northward of
the north-east point of Shewell island.

Gilford island, the largest of the islands forming the archipelago
on the eastern shore of Queen Charlotte sound, is 18^ miles long in a
north-east and south-west direction, and 11 miles wide at its north-east end,
gradually decreasing to 2 miles near its south-west extreme (Bare hill).
It is bounded on the south by Knight inlet, its eastern and northern sides
being embraced by Tribune channel, whilst numerous small islands lie off
its west shore, and from which it is separated by Spring, Retreat, and
Cramer passages. The west side of the island is much indented, and some of
the bights thus formed afford anchorage, amongst which are Health bay
and Shoal harbour. Gilford island is considerably elevated, the highest parts
being near the north-east end, where mount Read rises to a height of 4,820
feet ; mount James, near the centre, is 2,676 feet high. The south-west
pail of the island, howeveij| is not so lofty, the hills over Bare hill point
not being moi'e than 925 feet high ; but round its eastern, southern, and
northern shores mountains ranging from 2,600 to i,500 feet high rise
almost precipitously from the water's edge. . ,

jip"

OOAF. VI.]

GILFORD AND BROUGHTON ISLANDS.

241

\ ■•

i'^:

BROUGHTON ISLAND, which forms the north-west shore of
Fife sound, and the southern and western shore of Sutlej channel, is 1 5
miles long in an oast and west direction, and 6 miles wide at its western
end, gradually tapering to one mile wide at its eastern extreme (Pearse
peninsula). The island is much indented, the largest inlet, Greeuway
sound, nearly separating the island into two parts ; and a canoe passage
also leads from Green way sound to Carter bay, at the west point of the
island, thus detaching the northern part of Broughton island, which is,
therefore, really another island. The hills on Broughton island are not so
lofty as those of the mainland contiguous to it, the highest peaks being
mount Browne, 1,745 feet, on the north shore of Greenway sound, and
Quoin or Stoney mountain, 1,500 feet high over the entrance to Deep
harbour; the remaining hill ranges vaiying fi'om 600 to 1,000 feet in
height.

From the entrance to Culleu harbour, the south shore of Broughton
island trends to the westward for about 8 miles to the entrance to Wells
pass ; it is steep-to, and clear of danger at half a mile distant. Dobbin bay
and Cockatrice bay afford no anchorage.

Folkinghorne islands, a group consisting of one large and several
smaller islets and rocks, lie off the coast at the entrance to Wells pass ; the
largest island, 190 feet high, being over one mile in length in a N.W. and
S.E. direction, but only about 2 cables wide, and is distant from Broughton
island 1^ miles. Foul ground extends for some distance from the east side
of this group, and it should not be approaciied within a distance of half a
mile.

Vincent island, 200 feet high, lies half a mile north of the west
extreme of the largest of the Folkinghorne islands, some smaller islands
lying between them.

Percy island, 330 feet high, lies one-quarter of a mile north-west
of Vincent island, and has several islets and rocks skirting its north-west
shore and boi-dering on Wells pass.

Dickson island, at the western extreme of Broughton island, half
a mile north-ejxst of Percy island, forms the south shore of Carter ba;,' ;
it is 340 feet high, and its southern shore is skirted by islets and rocl.s,
some of which extend across to Percy island.

Caution. — Vessels passing between the Folkinghorne islands,
Vincent, and Percy islands, should do so with great caution, and should
not attempt to pass between the latter island and Dickson island.

Carter bay is formed between Dickson island and Broughton island,
on the east shore of Wells pass ; the water in it is deep. From its
eastern corner a canoe passage leads into Greenway sound.

A 17498. Q

242

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

W£jLLS pass, the entrance to Sutlej channel from Queen
Chai'lotte sound, lies between the islands above-mentioned and the south-
eastern shore of the large peninsula which forms the southern shore of
Drury inlet. From the entrance between Boyles point and Percy island,
the pass extends 5 miles in a N.N.E. direction to its junction with Patrick
passage, Grappler sound, and Drury inlet. The width at the southern part,
between Dickson island and Popplewell point, is only half a mile, widening
gradually to one mile at the northern end.

The eastern shore of Wells pass is bordered by hills 900 feet high ; the
western shore at the outer part is not quite so lofty, the height of the hills
being between 300 and 500 feet, but culminating, however, near Comptou
point (the north-west point of the pass), in mount Otway, 1,215 feet high.
The eastern shore is much broken by bays, including Tracey harbour, but
the west shore is straight and compact.

Ommaney islet, about 12C feet high, is the westernmost of the
islets lying in Wells pass between Percy and Dickson islands ; its south
and south-east sides are surrounded by kelp to a distance of about 2 cables,
amongst which are rocks drying at low water. The passage into Wells
pass is to the westward of Ommaney islet, which narrows the navigable
channel to a width of 4 cables. Vessels entering Wells pass should, when
approaching Ommaney islet, keep the highest peak of Numas islands (lying
off the entrance) just open of Boyles point until Ommaney islet is well
shut, in under Dickson island ; whence steer to pass in mid-channel between
the islet and James point, and hence keep the western shore on board.

SUTLEJ CHANNEL from its entrance (Wella pass) takes a
N.N.E. direction for nearly 5 miles, varying from three-quarters to one
mile in breadth, and is clear of danger. At that distance it turns to the
eastward through Patrick passage between Atkinson and Kinnaird islands,
and thence south-eastward for 6 miles to the entrance to Greenway sound,
whence it lakes a general E.S.E. direction through Pasley and Sharp
passages (on either side of the Stackhouse island), to its junction with
Peuphrase passage {see page 245) and Kingcome inlet. It is a clear, deep
channel throughout, and there is no impediment to safe navigation by
maintaining a mid-channel course.

THACEY HARBOUR,* on the eastern shore of Sutlej channel
(Broughton island), nearly 3 miles within Wells pass, is at its entrance
between Lambert island (on the north) and Mauve islet, 4 cables wide, but
it soon narrows from 2^ to 1^ cables, maintaining that width for a little
over one mile in an east direction ; the harbour then opens out and forms
two bights at its head, Napier bay, the northern, being 2^ cables broad.

* See plan of Tracey harbour on AdBxiralty chart, No. 571 ; scale, m = 6-0 inches.

CHAP. VI.]

WELLS PASS. — TRACEY HARBOUR.

243

The only danger is the reef skirting Star rock (which lies on the north
shore about half-way through the narrow portion of the harbour), and
vessels entering should keep the southern shore on board at half a cable
distance.

Anchorage, completely sheltered, may be obtained in from 6 to 7
fathoms in Napier bay, or abreast Freshwater cove, at about 2 cables
E.S.E. of the Star rock, in 10 fathoms, mud bottom.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tracey harbour at 12 hrs. ;
springs rise 16 feet, neaps rise 11^ feet.

Lambert island, on the north side of the entrance to Tracey
harbour, is 2^ cables long, and 2 cables wide and 350 feet high ; immediately
to the eastward of it is Wolf cove, extending 4 cables in a north-easterly
direction with a width of 2 cables at the entrance, gradually naiTOwing to
one cable ; it, however, affords no anchorage.

Atkinson island, 715 feet high, lies close off the north-west shore
of Broughton island, at 2 miles northward of the entrance to Tracey
harbour ; some islets extend off its south-west point, and vessels should not
attempt to pass between it and the shore of Broughton island.

Surgeon islands, a group of small islets close together, lie half
a mile west of Atkinson island at the entrance to Patrick passage.

Kinnaird island, 680 feet high and l^ miles long, lies on the cast
side of Grappler sound, with Dunsany passage on the east and Patrick
passage on the south. ,

Greenway sound, on the south shore of Sutlej channel, o miles
eastward of Patrick passage, is a deep inlet nearly one mile wide at its
entrance, extending 6 miles in a westerly and southerly direction, and
gradually narrowing towards its head, which approaches within one-quarter
of a mile of the head of Dobbin bay (see page 241). It has deep water
throughout its entire extent, and affords no anchorage ; inside its entrance
are Cecil and Maude islets, 180 and 150 feet high.

CYPRESS HARBOUR,* in Sharp passage, 2^ miles eastward
of the entrance to Greenway sound, indents the coast about one mile in a
southerly direction ; the upper half, however, is both narrow and shallow,
and the anchorage is limited to only a small portion of the remainder^
owing to the depth of water being too great. The entrance between
Donald head (on the east side) and Woods point is 2 cables wide, but the
navigable channel is only a little over one cable wide ; the harbour then

♦ See plan of Cypress harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 571 ; scale, m = 6-0 inches.

244

STRAIT OF GEORGIA 10 CAPE SCOTT.

[chap. VI.

opens, and is from 2 to 4 cables across, the depths varying from 1 9 liatLoms
in mid-channel to 6 fpthoas abreast Berry ''ove.

Fox rock, 16 feet above low water, lies in the entrance, and is the
outer part of a reef which extends one cable east from Woods point.
Vessels entering the harbour should, to avoid it, keep Donald head on
board at half a cable distant.

AncllorEge. — Good anchorage may be obtained on the west side
4 cables from Woods point in 6 fathoms, mud bottom, off Berry cove, at
one cable N.E. by N. from Tree islet. The land to the southward of the
anchorage, between the head of Berry cove and RofEey point, is fringed with
large cypress trees.

Water. — A stream of fresh water flows into Berry cove.

Tides. — It ia high water, full and change, in Cypress harbour at
12h. Om. ; springs rise 16 feet, neaps 11^ feet.

StackhoUSe island, 690 feet high, is about half a mile in extent
and lies in the middle of Sutlej channel abreast the entrance to Cypres?
harbour. Sharp passage to the southward of it, and Pasley passage to the
northward, are both half a mile wide.

Magin islands, three small islands from 120 to 180 feet high, lie
one mile to the northward of Stackhouse island, and half a mile from the
west shore, a small rock, awash at high water, lying between.

Tides. — The tides in Sutlej channel run at the rate of from one to
3 knots.

KINGCOME INLET, at its entrance is 2 miles wide, but the
navigable channel between the Magin islands (lying off the west shore')
and Bradley point (the west point of Gregory island) is contracted to 1 J
miles in width. Thence the inlet takes a N.E. by N. direction for 6 miles
to the entrance to Wakeman sound (on the north shore), whence it trends
E. by N. ^ N. for a further distance of 12 miles to its head, maintaining an
average width of one mile. Its termination on the northern shore is a low
marshy plain dotted with patches of scrub and stunted trees, and bordered
by a flat of soft mud and sand 1 J miles wide, which extends half a mile
from the shore. This flat is steep-to.

The northern shores of this inlet are boi-dered by snow-clad peaks of
5,000 to 6,000 feet in height, which are conspicuous from Queen Charlotte
sound ; the southern shore is not quite so lofty, the range varying from
3,000 to 4,000 feet. Kingcome mountains, 5,600 feet high, rise over the
head of this inlet, being 2 miles inland in an easterly direction.

Anchorage.— Kingcome inlet, in regard to the great depth of
water, presents the same features as most of the chasm-like fiords on

CHAP. VI.] KINGCOME AND DRURY INLETS. 24-5

this coast. Anchorage, however, raay be obtained in 18 fathoms, off a
small cove, uoar two small bights, at IJ miles S.S.E. of the head of the
inlet.

"Wakoman sound, on the northern shore of Kingcome inlet,
branches off to the N.N.W. at 6 miles from the entrance, in which direction
it extends for a distance of 5 miles, terminating in a low marshy plain
dotted with patches of scrub and stunted trees, through which several
streams flow, bringing down from the high ranges inland the melting snow,
and causing the water for one mile from the head of the sound to be
perfectly fresh at low water, and of a dull milky colour. At its head is
an Indian village. The water is too dee[) for anchorage.

Belloislo sound, on the sonth shore of Kingcome inlet, at 3 miles
E.S.E. from the entrance to Wakeman sound, has its entrance through a
narrow pass which lies south of the small Edmond islands. The iulot
takes a S.E. direction for about one mile, and then suddenly turns to the
S.W. for a further distance of 3 miles; it, however, from its great depth
of water, affords no anchoi'age.

Penphrase passage, connecting Sutlej channel and Kingcome
inlet with Fife sound and Tribune channel, is about 2^ miles long in an
E. by N., and W. by S. direction between Broughton and Trivett islands
on the south and Wishart peninsula on the north. The west entrance
between Hayes and Vigis points is one mile wide, but the width of the
passage decreases to 2^ cables abreast of Trivett island. About one cable
east from Trivett island is a shoal patch of 3 fathoms ; with this exception
the passage appears to be clear from dangers, and this may be avoided by
keeping the shore of Wishart peninsula onboard. Nicholls island lies just
inside the west entrance on the south side of the channel, its east extremity
being nearly three-quarters of a mile E. by S. from Hayes point.

A rock awash at low water lies 1\ cables to the westward of the west
point of Nicholls island, and 3 cables S.E. by E. from Hayes point, but
being inside a line joining the point with the east end of the island, is out
of the fairway of the channel.

DRURY INLET.— Between Pandora head (see p. 247) and the
shore to the southward, is the entrance to Drury inlet, which is here only
one cable wide, with a depth of 15 fathoms in it; just outside (eastward)
the entrance is Morris island, which should be passed on the north side,
and the northern shore should be closed to avoid a reef (marked by kelp
in the season) lying on the south shore, half-way between Morris island
and the narrowest part of the entrance channel. Drury inlet extends in a
W. by S. direction for 12 miles to its head, where another narrower arm
(Actaeon sound) branches off on the north shore for a distance of 4 miles
to the north-eastward.

■IPIHI

246

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [cn.vr. vi.

Over the grefiter part of Drury Inlet the depth is less than 25 fathoms,
and it is nowhere so deep as most of these inland channels ; in width it
varies from one cable to one mile, the latter being its width throughont the_
greater part of the inlet; but at one place, Stuart narrows, 1^ miles within
the entrance, two islets (each connected to the shore by reefs) leave a passage
of only 1^ cables between them, and this is further obstructed by a dangerous
rock, which only uncovers at low water (5 feet), lying directly in the
fairway between the two islets. Through these narrows the tidal streams
during springs attain a velocity of 5 knots an hour.

Passing up Drury inlet, the shores of which have an average height of
less than 1,000 feet, at one mile from Stuart narrows, Leche island is seen
lying in mid-channel, and may bo passed on either side ; hero the inlet
opens out to tho southward, forming Richmond bay, in which are several
islets. At a little over one mile westward of Leche island is Ligar island,
150 feet high, having at one cable east of its south point a dangerous
sunken rock, uncovering only 5 feet at low-water springs.

Voak rock, another dangerous rock, awash only at low-water spring
tides, lies 3 cables N.N.W. ^ W. from Ligar island, with deep water
between.

Sir Everard islands, on the south shore, l^ miles westward of
Ligar island, form a chain extending in a N.W. direction, Avith rocks
between them, a clear channel lying between them and Hooper island to
the northward.

Blount rock, 3 feet above high water, lies close to the south shore
half a mile to the westward of Sir Everard islands.

Jeiinis bay, on the north shore, abreast the Sir Everard islands,
would afford anchorage for a small vessel, which, when entering, should
pass eastward of Hooper island lying at the entrance, and anchor in the
centre of *^e bay in 7 to 10 fathoms.

Centre rock, a dangerous sunken rock, uncovering only 8 feet at
low-water spring tides, lies in the middle of Drury inlet 1^\5^ miles West of
the northern of the Sir Everard islands ; it is steep- to all round, and
vessels will clear it by keeping at 2 cables from either whore.

Mnirliead islands. — At 2J miles westward of Centre rock, the
inlet becomes studded with small islands, having deep channels between
them, and extending over a distance of 2 miles. The easternmost of these
is Wilson island, 120 feet high ; Keith island, also 120 feet high, lies 2
cables to the westward of it, and the Muirhead islands, three in number,
extending one mile in an east and west direction, are situated one cable
westward of the latter. The west Muirhead island is the largest and 255 feet
high, the next iu size, the eastern, being 180 feet high. Between this group

1 <

CHAP. VI.]

ACTiEON SOUND. — GRAPPLER SOUND.

247

and the south shore tho space is occupied by numerous small islands, but
there is a clear channel along tho north side of tho group; westward ol'
these, however, tho water shoals rapidly, there being only 2 to 3 fathoms in
Sutherland bay at the head of Drury inlet. A densely wooded valley
extends across tho peninsula in a south-west direction to the outer coast of
Queen Charlotte sound.

ACTiEON SOUND, which bra'-,ches off from the north side of
Drury inlet abreast the west Muirhead island, is so blocked at its entrance
by islets and rocks as to render it only available to boats. At 1^ miles
up it is again obstructed by rocks, and thence (from Bond peninsula) the
inlet becomes very narrow (less than half a cable wide), but opens out
farther up into two bays, Hand bay (on the ..Duth) and Creasy bay, after
which it becomes a mere gorge terminating in overfallo at its head, probably
from some backwater which fills on the flood tide. The Silverlock hills
(1,900 feet) rise over the north side of the 'lead of Actteon sound.

GRAPPLER SOUND.— West of Patrick passage (sec page 242),
between Kinnaird island and Pandora head (a small peninsula of the
mainland) is the entrance to another inlet which continues in a northerly
direction for four miles and is known as Grappler sound. From it several
smaller bights branch off on both sides, those on the east communicating
with Ilopetown and Kenneth passages, north and south of Watson island.
The lepths in the sound range from 20 to 30 fathoms, but are shoaler in
Claydon and Carriden bays on tho west shore. At the entrance to
the former a reef lies nearly in mid-channel, and a reef also extends 1.^
cables from Linlithgow point, on the north shore of the entrance to
the latter,

Buckingham, Hammersley, and Hanbury islands

lie on the north side of Kinnaird island at the enti'ance to Hopctown
passage, the first being the largest and 300 feet high.

Dunsany passage, leading from Grappler sound to the entrance
to Hopetown passage and south-eastward into Sutlej channel, east of
Kinnaird island, is apparently clear of danges, with the exception of a reef,
which covers at high water springs, lying off the north shore at the
entrance to Hopetown passage.

Hopetown passage can only be used by boats, which can pass
the barrier of rocks (that extend right across the passage at If miles
from the entrance) at high water, and can thence proceed into Mackenzie
sound.

Kenneth passage, leading from the head of Grappler sound round
the north side of Watson island, is 3^ miles long and communicates witli
Mackenzie sound at its junction with Hopetown passage. About one mile

248

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[chap, vr.

from its entrance (which is only a little over one ciihio broad) from
Grappler sound it widens considerably, a bight, named 'J'urnbull cove,
extending one mile in a W.N. W. direction; but half a mile further eastward
the passage contracts to 3 cables between Alexander and Tossio points, anil
thence several islands, islets and rocks obstruct the passage, rendering its
navigation dangerous.

MACKENZIE SOUND, from the east point of Watson island,
extends 3 miles in an E.N.E. direction, gradually nai rowing towards
Its head at the foot of mount Stephens (5,G65 feet high)> where it
becomes a mere chasm, and shoaling in the same direction from 25 to 10
fathoms.

" This chasm in the mountains, caused probably by some violent effort of
nature, differed materially in one particular from all the canals wo had
hitherto examined, namely, in its having regular soundings, aLhough its
shores, like all those of the bottomless canals, were formed by perpen-
dicular cliffs from their snowy summits to the water's edge. The stu-
pendous mountains on each side of the narrow chasm prevented a due
circulation of air below, by excluding the rays of the sun, whilst the
exhalations from the surface of the water and the humid shores of the
canal, wanting rarefaction, were, in a great measure, detained like steam,
in a condensed state ; the evaporation thus produced a degree of cold and
chilliness which rendered our night's lodging very unplcjisant."*

BOYLES POINT, the western entrance point of Wells pass and
the southern point of the peninsula formed by Drury inlet, has three small
islets lying close off it, the outer of which is only 4 feet above high water.
Over and on each side of the point are undulating hills of about 500 feet
high, rising gradually inland to mount Wynyard (afeout 1,200 feet high).

Boyles point is situated in latitude 50° 48' 40"N., longitude 127° 1' 40" W.

L6Wis rocks, a small cluster, 30 to 4 feet above high water, lie
one mile W.S.W. from Boyles point, with rocks awash and foul ground
extending 7 cables southward from them.

NumES isla/llds, the largest of which is 1 ^ miles long in an past
and west direction, lie in Queen Charlotte sound, off the entrance to Wells
pass, 4 miles S.S.W. from Boyles point; the largest is 434 feet high, and
off its western extreme is Staples islet, 24 feet high. These form an
excellent landmark.

LabOUCh.ere dianiiel, between Numas islands and the Lewis
rocks, is over 2 miles wide, with no bottom at 80 fathoms in mid-channel^
The tidal streams run at the rate of from one to 3 knots through this
channel.

* Vfi'icotiver^s Voyages, Vol, I., p. 360.

CHAP. VI.] MACKENZIE SOUND.*— BLUNDEN U IRBOUR.

210

The COAST of tho mainliind from IJoylcH point trends ncnily duo
west for 20 milen, and between that point and the Ruyner group, a distance
of 8 miles, is steep-to.

Raynor group consists of four or five Binall islands, 120 to 150 feet
high, lying close to the shore eastward of Rlunden harbour. The
southern edge of the group is fringed with sunken rocks, and they should
not be approached in that direction nearer than half u mile. Masses of
kelp surround these islands in the season, and skirt the shore towards
Blundcn harbour.

Gillot rock, 2 feet above high water, is the easternmost of the dangers
lying to the southward of the Rayner group.

Black rock, only 7 feet above high-water spring tides, is the western-
most of the dangers in the vicinity of Uuyner group.

BLUNDEN HARBOUR,* on the north shore of Queen
Charlotte sound, 12 miles westward of Wells p<"<s and a little more thaii
one mile from Black rock, is formed between se il islands wliicii lie close
off r I ■ r entation in the coast. The enhance between Shelf point, the
east extreme of Robinson island ^^120 feet hi/rh), and Barren rock, a small
rock 12 feet high, is 2^ cables wide ; but a reef (marked by kelp) extends
IJ cables South from the latter, and another reef extendi the same distance
E.N.E. from Burgess island (100 feet high), a small island lying close to
the shore 3| cables S.S.W. from Shelf point, thus rendering the channel
somewhat tortuous.

Inside the harbour, amongst the small islands in its northern part, the
depths are shoal and covered with kelp.

Anchorage may be obtained in 4 fathoms, mud bottom, in the western
part of the harbour, at 2 cables S.W. of the southern of the two Bonwick
Islands, which are joined to the shore and to eacli other at low water.

Directions. — Vessels entering Blunden harbour, which is only
available for vessels of moderate size, should bring Shelf point to bear
N.W. 5 N., when it will be just open of Charles point (on the east shore),
and steei in on these marks until Barren rock bears N.E., when haul to
the northward to pass midway between the rock and Shelf point. When
the channel opens, haul to the westward, keeping in mid-channel and
steering W. | N. with Barren rock astern, until the passage between the
southern Bonwick island and Bartlett point bears S.W. by W. ^ W., when
alter course in that direction. As *he channel here is only half a cable
wide, very great caution must be observed.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Blunden harbour at
12 hrs. ; springs rise 16 feet, neaps rise 11^ feet.

" See plan of Blunden harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 571 ; scale, m = 6 inches.

250

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[chap. VI.

Browning islands, 2^ - ules W.S.W. from the entrance to Blnnden
harbour, are a small group, the largest being 2^ cables long and about
200 feet high. A dangerous rock, which dries only 3 feet at low-water
spring tides, lies 3 cables E.S.E. from the east extreme of the largest of
the Browning islands, and vessels should therefore give those islands a
berth of from one-half to one mile when passing.

Stuart point, 1| miles W. by N. from the Browning islands, has
some rocky islets off it ; and 3 cables E. ^ S. from Stuart point, in the centre
of a bay between the point and Browning islands, is a patch of 2 fathoms.

Leading hill, o70 feet high, is situated close over the coast 1| miles
W. by N. ^ N. from Stuart point.

Robertson and Jeanette islands, the latter lOo feet high, lie

close ofE the shore under Leading hill.

Round island, a little over half a cable in extent, the tops of the
trees being 100 feet above the water, lies 6 cables S by W. from Jeanette
island ; the channel between is clear,' there being depths of over 40 fathoms
in it.

The Millar group consists of a chain of small islands extending
over a distance of 2 miles in a W. by N. ^ N. and E, by S. ^ S. direction
at 4 cables southward of Round island, between which and the group vessels
should not pass. The tops of the trees on the highest island of the group
arc from 150 to 200 feet above the sea. At 3 cables W. by N. ^ N. from
the westorn island of the group is David rock with 12 feet water on it.

Mary rock, «■ dangerous rock lying 8 cables S.E. by E. ^ E. from the
south end of the Millar group, is, however, generally visible, it being
awash at high water. Vessels passing through the North channel from the
south-eastward should approach it with Hound island beai'ing W. by N.,
and not bring the island to bear northward of that bearing until the east
end of the Millar group bears W.S.W., when alter course for mid-channel
between Round isltyid and Jeanette island.

The Deserters islands are a group of islands, islets and rocks,
the largest of which is nearly 2 miles in length, lying IJ miles southward
of the Millar group. The Walker group (see page 264) is situated to the
westward of the Deserters, separated from them by Shelter pass.

RIPPLE PASSAGE, between the Millar group and the Deserters
islands, has several dangerous rocks in it, and should therefore not be
used except in an emergency, and then only at low water (when nearly all
the dangers show) and with the greatest caution.

Sun rock, the most dangerous of these rocks, owing to its locality
only being known during bad weather, when the sea breaks on it, lies
8 cables S.W. ^ W. from the westernmost islet of the Millar group.

ouAP.vi.] RIPPLE PASSAGE. — NORTH CHANNEL. 251

Twin rockS', lO feet above high water, are two small rocks lying
6 cables north-east of McLeod island. Heavy overfalls are met with
northward and westward of the Twins.

Richard islet, 25 feet above higli water, and bare, lies 7 cables
N.E. from the Twins ; it should not be approached within one cable's
length.

Barry islet lies one mile S.E. by E. ^ E. from Richard islet; it is
bare, and 45 feet above high water.

Echo islets, a small group lying 8 cables south of Barry islet,
extend over half n mile in a N.W, and S.E. direction. At 3 cables off their
north-west end is the George reef; it lies three-quarters of a mile S.W.
from Barry islet.

The NORTH CHANNEL* into Queen Charlotte sound extends
close along the shore of the mainland from Bremner island off Buccleuoh
point to between Jeanette island and the Millar group (above described),
passing between White and Mayor islands on the north, and North rock
on the south (see page 266), and at half a mile southward of Rogers,
Dickenson, and Harris islets ; thence past Bold bluff, and midway between
Wentwortli rock and Wallace islands. To clear the North rock, passing
northward of it, keep Harris islet just open south of the south extreme of
Jeanette island bearing E. by S. ^ S.

Wallace islands lie close to the shore of the mainland at 3 miles
westward of Robertson islands and at the entrance to Shelter bay ; they are
steep-to at one-quarter of a mile from their southern shore.

Shelter bay indents the coast in an easterly direction for nearly

2 miles, forming two bights at its head. The entrance between the
Wallace islands and the shore to ihe northward is 4 cables wide, but the
bay is encumbered with rocks in its most sheltered part, and could only
be made use of as an anchorage by those possessing local knowledge. In a
small bay north of Wallace islands there is good landing for boats, and
there is also good landing for boats, in south-easterly winds, in a bight

3 cables Avest of the point forming the north-west entrance to Shelter bay.

WentWOrth rock, lO feet above high water, lies 1^ miles S.W. J W.
from the WftUace islands; it should bo given a berth of half a mile in all
directions.

Annio rocks, 16 feet above high water, are bare rocks, lying at
3 cables oil' the coast 1^ miles west of the entrance to Shelter bay.

* Sec Admiralty charts: — Goletns channel to Quatsiuo sound, No. 58i;: ; scale, m = 0-5
of an inch: also Vancouver island, No. 1917 ; scale, m — 0'15 of an ir.ch.

252

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vr.

Southgate group, consisting of four larger and several smaller
islets, lie close oflp the coast 3 miles westward of Shelter bay. Bold bluff,
the south-east island of the group, has rocky patches off its east end. The
shore of the mainland abreast Bold bluff falls back to the N.N.W. for a
distance of 6 miles, the southern part being skirted by several small off-
lying islets and rocks.

Harris islet, 30 feet above high water, is a small bare islet lying one
mile westward of the Southgate group,

Dickenson islet, is feet above high watei', is a small bare islet
7 cables W. by N. ^ N. from Harris islet.

Rogers islet, a similar small bare islet, 40 feet high, lies 6 cables
N.W. ^ W. from Dickenson islet. Foul ground extends for 2 cables from
its north and south ends.

Elizabeth rocks are a small patch lying 3 cables north-west of
the Southgate group.

Emily group, consisting of four small islets, the tops of the trees on
which are 90 feet above the sea, lie a mile northward of Rogers islet.

Eliza island, 3 cables in extent, lies 3 cables north of the Emily
group ; the tops of the trees on the island are about 240 feet above the sea,
and there are some conspicuous white cliffs on its south side.

Frederick islet is a small islet OO feet high, lying half a mile
eastward of Eliza island. From Frederick islet, towards Elizabeth rock,
there are several rocky patches.

Murray labyrintll is the name given to the many channels which
lie between a group of several islands, islets, and rocks lying off the south
coast of Branham island 2 miles N.N.W. from the Southgate group.

Branham island, 3^ miles long (east and west) and 2^ miles broad,
lies off the coast '^f the mainland, and together with the Fox islands forms
the southern shore of Slingsby channel. Nina hill, on the south side of the
island, is 600 feet high. Skull cove, indenting the island to the eastward of
Nina hill, affords good shelter for boats.

Schooner passage, between the east shore of Branham island and
the mainland, is a narrow pass having an average width of one cable
in aN.'.J.W. direction for a distance of 2^ miles; it is, however, at one
place obstructed by a rock lying in mid-channel, which leaves a passage
only 80 yards wide between it and the shore of Branham island. Schooner
passage communicates with Slingsby channel, at one mile southward of tho
Nak wak to rapids.

The tides in Schooner passage run at rate of from 2 to 5 knots.

^siji^iiii^iKi.'

CHAP. VI.] NORTK CHANNEL.— SLINGSBY CHANNEL.

253

Mayor island, a small wooded island, 1^ cable8 in extent, and
90 feet high, lies 1^*^ miles W.N.W. from the Emily group. A rock
awash at. low water lies 2 cables East from it.

White island, small, bare, and 48 feet high, lies 1^ miles W. by
N. \ N, from Mayor island.

Morphy rock, which covers at three-quarters flood, lies 6 cables
N.E. by E. 4 E. from White island, and 3^ cables S. by W. \ W. from
McEwau point, the south-west extreme of Branham island.

Fox islands, the western of which, 375 feet high, is 1^ miles long
(north-east and south-west), and the eastern half a mile long, lie off the
western end of Branham island, and form the south shore of the outer
part of Slingsby channel.

SLINGSBY CHANNEL,* on the northern shore of Queen
Charlotte sound, 7 miles south-eastward of cape Caution, leading to
Seymour and Belize inlets, is 5 miles in length in a N.E. by E. J^ E.
direction, with an average breadth of 3 cables, between Outer narrows
and Nak wak to rapids.

Outer narrows. — At three-quarters of a mile within the entrance
(between Dalkeith and Laacelles points) the channel contracts to only one
cable in width, with no bottom at 40 fathoms. In these narrows the flood
tide runs 2^ hours after high water by the shore ; ut springs the velocity
is from 5 to 9 knots, at neaps from 4 to 6 knots, the change of stream
occurring after only about 15 minutes slack water. The ebb tide runs
2i^ hours after low water by the shore, attaining, at springs, a velocity of
10 knots, and at neaps from 5 to 7 knots. With the wind blowing in, i.e.,
between West and South, the sea breaks across the entrance, and in the
narrowest part, even during calms, the water is much agitated.

Nak wak to rapids (Kah tsis ilia), at the eastern end of Slingsby
channel (communicating with Seymour inlet), are two cables wide, but in
the centi'e of the rapids is Turret island, 80 feet high, against which
the tide rushes with great fury. The channel westward of Turret islet has
a rock in it with only 2 fathoms water on itj that to the eastward has
depths of from 6 to 1 1 fathoms.

The flood tide commences 2^ hours after low water by the shore in
Slingsby channel, and runs (with a velocity at springs of 12 to 15 knots)
from 2 to 2| hours alter high water, or until it is high water at Seymour
inlet ; after an interval of 10 minutes slack- water the ebb commences and
runs until 2 to 3 hours after low water in Slingsby channel, attended by
very heavy and dangerous overfalls, and attaining a velocity at springs of
20 knots.

"' It is high water, full and change, in Sliugsby channel at 2h. 20m. ; springs rise
1 1 feet, neaps 5 feet.

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [ciup. vi.

Directions. — Steam vessels may enter Slingsby channel from the
westward through the Outer narrows in fine weather, at or near slack
water, and proceed to Treadwell bay, 4 miles within the entrance on the
north shore, where anchorage will be found in from 9 to 15 fathoms,
avoiding the shoal of 2^ fathoms situated southwards of the centre of the
bay.

If it be necessary to proceed through Nak wak to rapids, the turn
of the tide should be most carefully watched, so that the vessel may
with certainty make the passage during the only 10 minutes of slack water,
for at no other time would it be possible to do so with any degree of
safety.

These narrows, however, should only be used by a vessel on emergency
and atter acquiring some practical knowledge, by passing through at slack
water in a boat. It is also imperative that the tides should be previously
watched from Treadwell bay.

Small canoes pass from Slingsby channel into Seymour inlet at half tide
through a very narrow passage on the north shore inside the small island
forming the north point of the narrows.

TreadweL bay,* on the north shore of Slingsby channel, is formed
by the channel widening to 8^ cables and forming a bight in which lie
the Anchor islands (a group consisting of > le large aud several small
islands) leaving a sheltered space 2^ cables in extent between the north
shore of the large island and the shore. The largest Anchor island is half
a mile long east and west, and 220 feet high. The depth of water in the
bay varies from 7 to 12 fathoms, but near the centre, rather over to the
south side, there is a shoal spot with from 4 to 2^ fathoms on it. The bay
affords shelter perfectly free from tide for vessels of any size. Large
ships should moor.

Caution rock, which uncovers (6 feet) only at low-water spring
tides, is a dangerous rock lying in the fairway channel south-eastward of
the Anchor islands, and 1^ cables from the south shore of Slingsby
channel. To avoid it, keep the south shore on board at less than one
cable's length.

Directions. — Entering Treadwell bay, give the south-eastern Anchor
islands (Current point) a berth of 1^ cables, and having rounded them, keep
the shore of the mainland on board.

AncllOrage. — Anchor as convenient in 10 to 12 fathoms northward
of the 2J^-fathom8 patch.

Schooner passage. — One mile southward of the Nak wak to
rapids is the north entrance to Schooner passage {see page 252), which

* Tide. — It is high water, full and change, in Treadwell bay at Oh. 30m. ; springs
rise 11 feot, neaps 5 feet.

CHAP. VI.]

NUGENT SOUND. — SEYMOUR INLET.

255

may be approached on either side of Buttress island (210 feet high), which
lies on the south shore of Slingsby channel, fronting the passage.

NUGENT SOUND.*— From the Nak wak to rapids a branch half
a mile wide takes an E.S.E. direction for about one mile ; here it divides
into two, one branch continuing in an E.S.E. direction, and the other
(Nugent sound) an E.N.E. direction for 11 miles. Nugent sound in some
places is only 2 cables across, but it has deep water throughout, and is
navigable, though there is no anchorage in it. A very narrow passage
leads from the head of Nugent sound into a sheet of water taking an
easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, from which there is
communication overland by Schwartzenberg gorge Avith Seymour inlet.

SEYMOUR INLET.— The other branch, from Margaret point at
the entrance to Nugent t ound, takes an E.S.E. direction for 6 miles, with
deep water in mid-channel. On the north shore is Charlotte bay, and on
the south Ellis bay, both, however, unavailable as an anchorage. At the
above distance, on the north shore, is the entrance to Seymour inlet,
several islets lying just within it. A naiTOW pass of shallower water with
depths of 4 and 10 fathoms continues for 3 miles to the E.S.E., commu-
nicating with a large sheet of water extending to the foot of mount Adams,
and only one mile from Actaeon sound. Wa wattle bay lies between
the entrances to these two arms, and extends one mile in an E.N.E. direction
with depths of from 23 to 18 fathoms water.

Seymour inlet, from its entrance to the head of Salmon arm, is 25
miles long, varying from three-quarters to 1^ miles in width, and main-
tains a depth of over 40 fathoms throughout to within 2 or 3 cables
of the shore at its head. There are several indentations on both shores,
the largest being Maunsell bay on the north shore ; none, however,
afford an anchorage. At 3 miles eastward of Maunsell bay are the Eclipse
narrows where the tides run with great strength and no bottom could be
obtained at 12 fathoms, these narrows lead to Salmon arm and Frederick
sc ',the latter extending 5 miles in a S.E. direction, the former 3 miles in
a N.E. direction. Frederick sound terminates at the foot of mount Stephens,
a con^icorus mountain 5,665 feet high, with a pointed overhanging peak
close to it, 5,625 feet in height {see page 248) overlooking Mackenzie
sound.

Salmon arm terminates at the foot of Perpendicular mountain, 5,000 feet
high. Ta altz, a winter Indian vil'ige, is situated on the shore at its
head.

* See Admiralty charts: — Johnstone and Broughton straits, No. 581 ; settle, m= 0'5
of an inch ; also Vaneoaver island, No. 1917 ; scale, m = 0'15 of an inch.

256

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[oiiAP. vr.

Tbo continuation of Seymour inlet northward of Eclipse narrows
terminates at 6 miles, a river flowing into it at its bead, on which is
situated a winter village of the Wa watl Indians.

BELIZE INLET. — From the Nak wak to rapids another branch,
3 cables wide, takes a westerly direction for 3 miles to Mignon point, where
it suddenly turns back to the E.N.E., continuing in that direction almost in
a straight line for 24 miles, with an average width of half a mile, and with
deep water throughout ; it lies between high ranges 3,000 to 4,000 feet
high. From the head of Belize inlet to Maunsell bay, on the northern side
of Seymour inlet, there is, according to Indian reports a portage about
2J miles long.

LaSSiter bay, at the head of the continuation of the inlet, between
Harvell and Mignon points in a westerly direction, forms two small bights,
with some few islets and rocks in it, but the water is inconveniently deep
for anchorage.

MEREWORTH SOUND.— At 5 miles to the eastward of
Mignon point, on the north shore, is the entrance to Mereworth sound,
another similar inlet branching off to the northward, in which direction it
continues for 4 miles, and then suddenly turning to the eastwrrd for
fi miles, maintaining deep water throughout.

Plat rock, Square and Bound islands. He on the west shore

at the entrance to Mereworth sound, with deep water around.

Strachan bay, at H miles from the entrance to Mereworth sound,
on the western shore, is the entrance to a small inlet which takes a westerly
direction for 1^ miles, and has depths of 40 to 16 fathoms.

Village bay, on the opposite shore, abreast Strachan bay, is a small
bay with two islets off its north point, and depths of 19 to 22 fathoms
in it.

Westerman bay is a small bight l^ miles long in a northerly
direction, with from 30 to 20 fathoms water over it, except at its head,
where it suddenly shoals to 3 J fathoms at 4 cables from the shore. The
entrance to .»e8terman bay is 2 miles westward of the entrance to
Mereworth sound.

The head of Westerman bay is separated from the termination of
Strachan bay by a neck of land 1^ cables wide, forming to the eastward
May peninsula, 1,160 feet high.

Allison sound. — At about lO miles from the entrance to Mereworth
sound, on the north shore of Belize inlet, is the entrance to Allison sound,
another narrow branch which, like Mereworth sound, first takes a northerly
direction (for 3 miles) and then suddenly turr- to the eastward for 3 miles,
finally turning again to the ' orthward for a further distance of 2 miles, to

CHAF. VI.]

BELIZE INLET. — GOLETAS CHANNEL.

257

its head. At about 2 miles from the entrance Allison sound is only about
350 yards wide; here, in the middle of the passage, is a small islet
(Obstruction islet) having a passage on either side of it 160 yards wide,
with a depth of 10 fathoms in it.

The coast from Lascelles point, the north entrance point to Slingsby
channel trends 7 miles W.N.W. to cape Caution, and is clear of danger.

Br6Tiaiier islot, 58 feet high and covered with grass, lies 1 ^ miles
W. ^ N. from Lascelles point, and half a mile distant from the shore.

GOLETAS CHANNEL,* which runs along the north shore of
Vancouver island to the Pacific, is 22 miles long east and west, with a
breadth varying from one to 2^ miles. Its shores are high, rugged, and
eteep-to, except in the western part, and may be genex-ally approached to
within a quarter of a mile ; the northern side is composed of a group of
islands (the principal of which are Galiano and Hope islands), mostly small,
through which are several navigable passages. There are four anchorages
in the channel, viz., Shushartie bay on the south side ; port Alexander,
Shadwell passage, and Bull harbour on the north side ; and all, with the
exception of the latter, are easily accessible to sailing vessels. Duval point,
on the south side at the eastern entrance of the chan lel, is 15 miles west of
Broughton strait.

The depths throughout the channel to the west entrance are very deep,
varying from 190 to 80 fathoms, but there the bottom suddenly rises from
40 to 7 and 9, and in one part to less than 3 fathoms, forming Nahwhitti bar,
Btretching comnletely across the channel, and in a great measure preventing
any heavy sea rising inside it during westerly gales.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in the Goletas channel
at Oh. 30m., and the rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet. The tidal
streams in the east part of the channel run from one to 3 knots, bat near the
west entrance, in the vicinity of the Nahwhitti bar, they are much stronger
(2 to 5 knots), turning shortly after high and low water by the shore.

S}ICrSHARTIE BAY.t— From Duval point the south shore of
Goletas channel runs 15 miles in a westerly direction to Shushartie bay,
with a rugged rocky outline, and rises gradually to a chain of hills varying
from 400 to 1,000 feet high ; it is everywhere steep-to. Shushartie bay
is about half a mile in extent, and its shores are high, except at the head,
from which a sand-bank extends off more than 2 cables. There is a very
limited but fairly sheltered anchorage just inside the north-east point of
the bay, in about 18 fathoms, at the distance of one cable o£F shore, but

* See Adntiralty chart of west end of Vancouver island (Qoletas channel to Quatsino
sound), No. 582; Hca' m = 0'i oi an inch : also Admiralty plan of Qoletas channel.
No. 55d ; scale, m = 2 inches.

t See Admiralty plan of Shushartie bay, No. 2,067 ; scale, m=3 inches.

17498.

258

STRAIT OP GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [ohap. ti.

from the steepness of the bank it should only be considered as a stopping
place.

Dillon rook, which covers at one-quarter flood lies 1^ cables west
from Halstead island, which lies close off the east point of bay, and is in
the *vay of vessels entering from the eastward.

Directions. — If entering Shushartie bay from the eastward, and
the Dillon rock be covered, do not steer in for the anchorage till the
easternmost peak of the Shushartie saddle (a remarkable double-topped
mountain 1,900 feet high situated south of the bay) is seen in the centre of
the bay bearing S. ^ E., when proceed in with that mark on, which leads
west of DiUon rock ; when the north-east point of bay bears E. by N. -J N.,
the vessel will be clear south of it, and should steer for the eastern shore.

Entering from the westward keep the western shore aboard till Halstead
island bears E. by N. ^ N., when steer in as before directed.

AnchorEge. — ^Anchor immediately 14 fathoms are obtained, as the
bank is steep, which will be at about one cable's distance oflF it, with the
extremes of the bay bearing N.E. and N.W. by W.

Shingle point, 2 miles west of Shushartie bay, is low ; a beach
runs off it a short distance ; westward of this point it is difficult to land,
except in fair weather.

CAFE COMlxERELL, 22 miles west of Duval point, is the
northernmost point of Vancouver island, and the south point of the west
entrance to Goletas channel. The cape is low, and some rocks extend off
it for nearly 2 cables ; to the eastward of it the coast forms a large bay
3 miles wide and about one mile deep, with from 2\ to 6 fathoms rocky
bottom, and not in any way adapted for anchoring. The shoal part of
Nahwhitti bar, on which there is as little as 2^ fathoms, extends to the
north-westward from the east point of this bay ; it is marked by kelp and
named Tatnall reefs. Weser islet 8 feet high lies in the western part of
the bay, distant one-quarter of a mile from the shore. There is an Indian
village on the east side of the cape.

Cape Commerell is situated in latitude 50° 52' 35" N., longitude
128° 3' 0" W.

Q-OIIDON GROUP consists of a number of small islands extending
in an east and west direction for 5 miles, and bordering the north part of
the east entrance of Goletas channel. They are high and steep-to, and on
the eastern or Doyle island is Miles cone, a remarkable summit 380 feet
high. Their eastern extreme is 2 miles north of Duval point.

Duncan island, one mile south of the Gordon group, is about one
mile in circumference, and 300 feet high.

Noble islets, 30 feet high, lie 1^ miles west from Duncan island,
between which and the group it is not advisable for a large vessel to go.

CHAP. VI.] CAM COMMERELL. — aALIANO ISLAND.

259

BalaklEVdi islarlld., 2^ miles long north-west and south-east, and
from half a mile to one mile wide,and rugged and irregular, with three peaks,
lies between the Gordon group and Galiano island, forming Christie and
Browning passages. A small rock 4 feet high, surrounded by kelp, lies one
cable south of the south-eastern Lucan islands, a group of three small
islets lying parallel with the west shore of Balaklava island at the distance of
1^ cables, and extending three-quarters of a mile from its south point.
Raglan point, the north-west point of Balaklava island, has a ledge extend-
ing from it for 2\ cables ; and half a mile N.W. from the point are the
Cardigan rocks, 6 feet high, with Croker rock 1^ cables X.E, from them.
These rocks are surrounded by kelp.

Christie passage, between the west side of the Gordon group and
Balaklava island, is half a mile wide, and its south entrance is nearly 6
miles from Duval point j it runs in a northerly direction, and connects
Goletas with the New channel ; some shoal patches with from one to
3 fathoms water on them lie IJ cables from the east shore of Balaklava
island, and 6 to 7 cables S.E. by S. from Scarlett point (the east point of
the island) ; between them and the island is George island. With these
exceptions the shores of the passage are free from danger, and the depths
in mid-channel are from 35 to 45 fathoms. The tide runs from one to
3 knots through it, the flood to the southward.

If intending to go through this passage from Goletas channel, a large
vessel should enter it west of the Noble islets.

Browning passage, to the -west of Balaklava island, between it
and Galiano island, runs in a north-westerly direction from the Goletas
to New channel. Its length is about 3 miles, its breadth in the narrowest
part 2 cables, and there are some small rocks and islets off its south-east
and north-east points ; and a rock, which covers at three-quarters flood,
lies on the west side of the channel about three-quarters of a cable from
Galiano island, and 8 cables from the south-west entrance point of the
channel. A reef of rocks and foul ground marked by kelp extends
1^ cables from Balaklava island, just opposite the above-mentioned rock,
and this is the narrowest part of the channel, which is deep ; a mid-channel
course through is free from danger. The tide is very weak in this channel.

GALIANO ISLAND, the largest of the islands on the north side
of Goletas channel, is of triangular shape, nearly 8 luiles long, and 3^ miles
broad, the base fronting to the southward. The shores are very much
broken along the north and east sides ; mount Lemon, a remarkable peak
of conical shape 1,200 feet high, rises near its south-west part, and
Magin saddle consisting of two peaks, 700 and 800 feet high, is situated
at less than one mile from the west extreme of the island. Port Alexander
is formed at its south-east extreme.

260

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT.

[chap. VI.

Tho Houth side of Galiano island is high, steep-to, and cliffy, trending in
a straight diioction to the westward ; at 4j miles west from Boxer point
is ft small cove which would afford shelter to small craft from westerly winds.

Port Alexander, upwards of 7 miles from Duval point, and on the
west side of Browning channel, indents the coast of Galiano island in a
north-westerly direction for 1^ miles, with a general breadth of about
4 cables ; there is a small islet in the middle of it, half a mile from the
entrance, and another close off Boxer point on the west side of entrance.
This port is easy of access to steamers, and sailing vessels with a fair wind,
and affords good anchorage in 12 to 13 fathoms, at half a mile from its
hea<l, well sheltered from all except south-easterly winda. .

SHADWELL PASSAGE, situated abreast Shushartie bay, and
1^ miles N.N.W. from Halstead island, in the north-west part of the Goletas
channel, between Galiano and Hope islands, is 3^ miles long in a northerly
direction, and its breadth varies from one-half to 1^ miles; the eastern
shore is straight in a north-easterly direction, but the western is indented
into several small bays, with some rocks and islets off them, and foul
ground extending nearly half a mile fr )m the shore between Turn point
and cape James.

The depths in the south part of this passage are from 80 to 100 fathoms,
decreasing rapidly from 9 to 13 fathoms to the northward ; a vessel may
anchor about 2 or 3 cables north-west of Centre island, sheltered from all
except northerly winds. The tidal streams set with considerable strength
(4 knots) between Centre island and Turn point.

Vansittart island, in the centre of the passage at its north part, is
one mile long, and three-quarters' of a mile wide, and 260 feet high ; west
of it are some rocks and small islets extending 6 cables off it ; and half
a mile from the north point are two wooded islets 70 feet high called
Nicolas islands.

Willes island, 2O8 feet high, at the south-east part of the passage
close to Galiano island is steep-io, and may be approached to within a distance
of one cable ; a quarter of a mile to the south-east of it is a small low islet,
named Slave island.

Centre island, in the middle of the passage, and 5 cables S.W.
from Vansittart island, is small ; west of it some kelp extends a short
distance, but there is a passage on either side of it; that to the westward,
however, is much obstructed by Suwanee rock, and it should therefore not
be used.

Suwanee rock, which dries 4 feet at low-water spring tides, lies
one cable W by S. | S. from the high-water mark of Centre island, rendering
the passage west of that island unsafe.* , - .. .

* The U.S. iteAin vessel Suwanee was wrecked oa thin rock in 1868.

CHAP. Tl.]

SHADWELL PASSAGE.

261

One Tree islet, 4 cables west of Vansittart, is small, about 40 feet
high, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very conspicuous when
seen from the northward, and of great use in identifying the passage ;
this islet may be approached close-to on the west side, but between it and
Vansittart arc rocks and foul ground. Breaker reef, the outer of the
dangers extending to the north-west from Vansittart island, lies half a
mile N. by W. J W. from One Tree islet.

Turn Point. — The south-weitern headland of the passage. Heath
point, is 200 feet high, rocky, fringed with kelp, and presents a cliffy
appearance. Turn point lies 2 miles north-east of HeatL point about mid-
way between it and cape James; it is backed by a summit 300 feet high.

Cape James, the north-west extreme of Shadwell passage, 2 miles
N.N.W. § W. from Turn point, is a rocky bluff 90 feet high ; some rocks
extend off it to the southward for a short distance, and foul ground, marked
by kelp, exists between it and Turn point. The cape should at all times
be given a berth of at least half a mile.

Tides. — The flood-tide runs to the southward through Shadwell
passage at the rate of about 4^ knots, whilst the ebb, in the northern part,
sets 2 knots in the contrary direction ; to the southward of centre inland,
however, it runs as strong as the flood. Tide rips exist between Centre
and Vansittait islands.

Directions. — Bound through Shadwell passage to the northward,
round Willes island, its south-east point, at about one or 2 cables' distance,
until abreast Turn point, when steer to pass about one cable off the
east side of Centre island, and 2 cables west of One Tree islet, keeping
the south peak of Magin saddle (on the west end of Galiano island), in
line with the east end of Centre island bearing S.S.E., which leads through
the northern entrance of Shadwell passage, passing half a mile east of cape
James (north-west point of entrance) and 1| cables west of Breaker reef '
in 9 to 17 fathoms water.

Shadwell passage may be used by steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair
wind; it would hardly be prudent to beat a large vessel through it, as
there is generally a heavy swell and strong tide in the north part. It is
the passage usually taken by the Hudson Bay Company's vessels when
bound north from the inner waters.

Bate passage, to the eastward of Vansittart island, is deeper, and
nearly straight, and perhaps to a sailing ship or stranger it would be easier
to navigate than the western one ; if proceeding through it, keep in mid-
channel. Vessels that do not steer well are recommended to nse Bate
passage instead of Shadwell passage.

262

STRAIT OF GEORGIA. TO CAPE SCOTT.

[oiiAP. vr.

Anchorage. — The beat anchorage in Shadwell passage is near the
middle, with One Tree islet bearing N.E. by N., Centre island S.S.E. ^ E.,
and Turn point S. ^ E., in 9 fathoms.

HOPE ISLAND, the westernmost of the group which forms the
I orth side of Goletaa channel, is 6 miles long, east and west, and its
greatest breadth is 3J miles. The island is moderately high, and its shores
are very much broken ; the sea breaks heavily along its north and west
sides, and off Mexicana point, the western extreme, a reef extends 3 cables ;
the south shore is steep, and may be approached to one-quarter of a mile.

BULL HARBOUR* has its entrance on the south side of Hope
island, 2 miles from the western entrance of Goletas channel. Though
small, this harbour affords a very secure landlocked anchorage. It runs
in a northerly direction for 1^ miles across Hope island, its head being
only separated from the north shore of the island by a narrow neck of low
land 403 feet wide. The harbour, 5 cables wide at the entrance, is con-
tracted to one cable at half the distance from the head, after which it
again increases to nearly 2 cables.

Indian island, li cables north of the narrowest part of the entrance,
is small, but completely shuts in the harbour to the southward, leaving a
pas.sage to it on the eastern side one cable wide ; between the island and
the west shore there is only a depth of 11 feet.

Directions. — If intending to enter Bull harbour, steer up in mid-
channel, passing east of Indian island, and moor immediately the vessel Is
north of it, anchors north and south. Only steamers or small sailing
vessels should use this anchorage, as from its narrow and tortuous entrance
it is rather diflBcult of access to long vessels.

Anchorage. — The anchorage is to the northward of Indian island, in
about 4 fathoms water, but there is only room for one or two vessels of
moderate size to lie moored.

Tides. — It is high water, at full and change, in Bull harbour at Oh. 30m. ;
springs rise 12^ feet.

Westward of Bull harbour the coast of Hope island ia rocky and edged
by kelp ; the sea in westerly winds breaks heavily $ilong it. !•> •* • '',^ -. '

NAHWHITTI BAR, or ledge, stretching across the west entrance
of the Goletas channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the eastern
edge rises suddenly from 40 to 9 fathoms, the depth increasing very
gradually to the westward. Its breadth within the 10-fathom line is

* See plan of Bull harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 2,067 ; scale, w — 3 inches.

OUAP. VI.]

NAnWIlITTI BAR. — NEW CHANNEL.

203

from one to nearly 3 miles, it beiny broadest at tho south part, whore are
several shonl spots. On tho western edge of the bar the tide runs from 2 to
5 knotH.

Tatnall reefs, with 2^ and 3^ fathoms on thorn, lie on tho bar 1^
miles from the south shore ; northward of these patches the depths vary
from 6 to 9 fathoms. In heavy westerly gales tho sea breaks right across
the Goletas channel at this bar.

Leading mark. — Boxer point (the south-east point of Galiano
island), open north of Shingle point (Vancouver island), bearing E. | N.,
leads over the Nahwhitti bar in tho deepest water (from 7 to 9 fathoms)
well to the northward of Tatnall reefs.*

Directions. — Bound to the westward through Goletas channel,
steer in mid-cliamiel, or within half a mile of either shore, until west
of Bull harbour, after which keep Boxer point open north of Shingle
point bearing E, J N., until Mcxicana point (west point of Hope island)
bears North, when a vessel will be to tho westward of the JFahwhitti bar.
A sailing ship, if beating through the channel, should keep sou'h of Duncan
and Noble islands ; elsewhere, until west of Bull harbour, the shores on
both sides may be approached to within one-quarter of a mile; when
stand ii^' to the southward, west of Bull harbour, tack when Shingle and
Lemoi 1 points are in line bearing E, by N., and do not approach nearer
than half a mile towards Mexicana point, as there is generally a heavy swell
setting in oi it, and the ground is uneven.

When crossing the bar in the deepest water, if the weather be clear,
mount J.,cTion, a high conical peak, should appear nearly midway between
Shingle point and Heath point on the opposite shore, or nothing to the
southward of midway between them.

If obliged to anchor for the night, or tide, Shushartie bay, though
small, is easy of access, the only danger being the Dillon rock off its east
point {see page 258). Port Alexander, and Shadwell passage, along
the north shore, are also, with a fair wind, easy of access to sailing
vessels, and the latter is preferable, being more roomy with better holdiiig
ground. ;

NEW CHANNEL, to the northward of Goletas channel, and
separated from it by the islands which form the north shore of the latter,
is an extensive clear passage to the Pacific Ocean, about 12§ miles long,
and a breadth varying from 1 ^ to 4 miles. Its depth in the shoalest part is
65 fathoms, near the eastern entrance, and its shores, except near the
west part of the Gordon group, may be approached to within nearly

♦ See view on Admiralty chart, No. 555.

264

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vi.

half a mile ; tlie north limit of the channel is formed by Walker group to
the eastward, and a few low rocks and islets to the north-west.

Generally a heavy swell sets through New channel from the westward,
and, with the exception that there is more room for a large vessel to work
in or out than in Goletas channel, there is no reason to use it in pre-
ference to the latter, unless, if running in before a heavy westerly gale,
the sea were breaking across the west entrance of Goletas channel at the
Nahwhitti bar.

Doyle island, the south-easternmost of the Gordon group and at
the south-east point of New channel, is three-quarters of a mile long,
and has a remarkable summit 380 feet high on its centre, named Miles cone,
(page 258) ; there are some small islets off its east point. Tlie north side
of the Gordon group to Crane islets is steep-to, and may be approached to
one-third of a mile.

Crane islets are small, 30 feet high, and steep-to, there being
100 fathoms water at one cable's distance. They lie 2^ miles westward of
Doyle island, and about 3 cables north of Gordon group.

Boyle island, H miles west from Crane islets, and half a mile north
of Hurst island (Gordon group), is small.

Grey rock, which covers at one-quarter flood, lies half a mile north-
west from Boyle island, and is dangerous to vessels beating through this
channel. The best njark to clear this rock, is to keep the Crane islets
just touching the north side of Gordon group bearing E. by S. f S,,
which leads nearly half a mile north of it ; when Boyle island bears South
a vessel will be clear east of it, and when the south-west and north-east
points of Christie passage come open bearing S. \ W., she will be cleor
to the north-west of it.

The COAST. — The north shore of Balaklava island is rugged,
and half a mile N.W. from its north-west point are three low islets (Cardigan
rocks), 6 feet above highwatei', at the north entrance to Browning channel.

The north shore of Galiano island is also rugged ; some outlying rocks
He a short distance off it, but it may be approached to one-third of
a mile.

Westward of cape James, the ncrth-east ^oint of Hope island, the shore
is generally rocky, and the sea breaks heavily along it j do not approach it
within half a mile. > .t

WALKER GROUP, between which and the Gordon group lies
the New channel, is composed of two large islands and several small
islets and I'ocks covering an extent of 6 miles in a westerly direction, and
2 miles broad ; the higher and western of the two larger islands (Kent)
is about 320 feet above the sea; the eastern (Staples) is 295 feet; among

CHAT. V^

WALKER GROUP.

265

them are several small creeks and bights, which would afford shelter to
boats., or ev n small craft; along their south side some rocks extend a short
distance off.

Castle point, at the east extreme of the group, is bold, cliffy, and
steep-to, with no bottom at 60 fathoms at 2 cables south of it.

White rock, at the south extreme of Walker group, lies 2 miles
W.S.W. from Castle point ; it is 4 feet above high water, and there are
40 fathoms half a cable south of it. Between White rock and Boyle island
a strong tide race usually prevails.

Ragged reef, a claster of rocks 4 feet high and 4 cables in extent,
lies 6 cables to the northward of the west end of Kent island (Walker
group).

Nye rock, off the south end of Schooner passage, at the west part of
the group, covers at high water ; it lies 2\ miles W. ^ N. from White
rock, and may be approached to within u distance of 2 cables on the
south side ; but large vessels should not stand inside it to the northward.

Redfern island, the south-west of Walker group, is about half a
mile long, and one-quarter of a mile wide ; half a mile south-east of it are
some rocks just above high water, as also to the north-west; its south side
should not be approached within 2 cables.

Hedley islands, a group of small rocks lying in mid-channel between
Kent and Staples islands and Redfern island, occupy a space east and west of
1^ miles ; a reel* which covers at high water lies 4 cables to the eastward of
them, and 6 cables distant from the south side of Kent island. Schooner
passage, v/hich is not recommended, lies between Hedley and Kent islands.

PrOSSer rock, 2 miles W. by N. I N. from Redfern island, is small,
about 2 feet above high water, and may be approached to within a distance
of 2 cables.

Brigtt islet, nearly one mile farther in the same direction, is 100 feet
high ; half a mile N.E. by N. from it is a reef which covers iit high wattr
and one mile E, by N. ^ N. lies Herbert island, with a reef lying between.

Fine island, at the north-west part of New channel, about one mile
in circumference, bold, wooded, and about 250 feet high, is conspicuous from
the westward.

Tree islets, some small islets, which are also wooded, lie lialf a mile N.E.
from Pine island.

STORM ISLANDS, in the centre of Queen Charlotte sound, 2|
miles northward of Pine island, are a narrow chain of islets extending 2
miles east and we3t, and form a most useful land-mark when crossing Queen
Charlotte sound. The tops of the trees are about 150 to 200 feet above

'V -^j

266

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SOOTT. [chap vi.

high water, and on the western part is a single tree which is conspicuous.
There are no ofF-lying dangers beyond 3 cables. An Indian fishing village
is eituated on one of the group, near the east end.

Beid island, the easternmost of the Storm islands, on the north side
of Sealed passage, is about 300 yards long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and
150 yards broad, having a rock above water half a cable off its west end.

Naiad islet is bare and 48 feet high ; it lies half a mile N. E. ^ N. from
Keid island.

Sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, lies about
5 miles N.E. of Shadwell passage ; from the centre of the rock, Bright
island bears S.E. by E., 1^ miles, and Pine island, West 1^ miles.

SEALED PASSAGE, 5 miles to the northward of Shadwell
passage, between Pine island and the Storm islands, is about 2^ miles wide.
This passage should not be attempted. ,

Blind reef, on which the sea breaks in heavy weather, extends nearly
across Sealed passage, and closes it to navigation ; close to the west edge of
Blind reef there are 17 to 40 fathoms, rocky bottom.

Water can be obtained at the Indian fishing station on Storm islands.

Soutll rock, awash at low water, lies about 1| miles north-eastward
from Blind reef; from the centre of this rock. Pine island bears S.W. by S.
3;J miles nearly, and Reid island W. \ N. 1| miles.

Middle rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is covered at
three-quarters flood, and lies one mile N. by W. from South rock.

North, rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is awash at high
water, and lies N.E. three-quarters of a mile nearly from Middle rock.
Harris islet a little open south of Jeanette island, bearing E. by S. ^ S.,
leads half a mile to the northward of North rock. ; .-; . r

Directions. — If using the New channel, 'and the wind be fair, a
mid-channel course about W. by N. will take a vessel clear. If working
through, when between the Walker and Gordon group, keep one-third to
one-hu t of a mile south of the southern shores of the former, and on nearing
the Grey rock, when standing towards the southern shore, avoid opening
the south part of Crane islets north of the Gordon group E. by S. f S.,
until the east and west points of Christie passage come open bearing
S. i W., or the eastern e'^ge of Redfern bears N.N.W. ^ W., when
a vessel will be clear to the westward of the rock ; and if going east,
when Boyle islet bears South eL , will be east of it. In the vicinity of the
Qaliano and Hope islands, tack about half a mile off shore, and keep

CHAP. VI.]

SCOTT CHANNEL.

267

outside Shadwell passage and Roller bay ; when west of Pine island, do
not bring it to bear east of E. by N. .,,.;.. . ..r-

The COAST from cape Commerell (page 258), the north-west point
of Vancouver island, takes a south-west direction for 16 miles to cape Scott.
It is rather low, but rises at a distance inland to hills 800 and 1,000 feet
high ; it is indented by several bays, which, however, are too open to
afford any shelter, except in southerly winds ; foul ground extends oft' in
some places more than one mile.

Hecate rock, lying l^ miles W. by S. from cape Commerell, and
three-quarters of a mile off" shore, covers at three-quarters flood, and the
sea breaks heavily over it. Lemon point (Galiano island) just open of or
touching Shingle point (Vancouver island) bearing E. by N., leads three-
quarters of a mile north of it. "•■^

CAFE SCOTT, the extreme north-west point of Vancouver island,
is a small promontory about 500 feet high, connected to the island by a low
sandy neck about one cable wide; some rocks extend west from it for more
than half a mile.

Shelter. — There is a bay on both sides of the neck, which would afford
anchorage to boats or small craft in fine weather only ; close to its south-
west exti*eme is a small creek among the rocks, difficult of access, but, once
within it, boats may get shelter in southerly gales ; unless acquainted with
the locality, it would, however, be hardly prudent to venture for it in bad
weather.

At cape Scott the flood comes from the southward, and rouiding the
cape sets into the Goletas channel, its strength varying from one to 3 knots.

When navigating between cape Commerell and cape Scott, do not
approach the shore within 1^ miles, at which distance there are depths of
from 16 to 20 fathoms.

SCOTT CHANNEL, between cape Scott and Cox island (the
easternmost of the Scott islands) to the westward, is 5^ miles wide, with
depths in it varying from 25 to 40 fathoms. It is a safe navigable
channel for any class of vessel, the only known dangers in it being the rocks
extending nearly one mile west from cape Scott ; the tide runs through
from one to 3 knots, the flood from the southward. There are some heavy
tide rips near its eaot and ',v3st sides, but a large vessel may beat through
with safety, tacking when upwards of one mile off cape Scott, or half a
mile of Cox island. ,

SCOTT ISLANDS, Ave in number, with some adjacent smaller
islets, extend nearly 20 miles in a west direction from cape Scott. There
are wide passages between the western islands, but as no soundings have

268

STRAIT OF GEORGIA TO CAPE SCOTT. [chap. vr.

been obtained in them, and strong tide rips and overfallH have invariably
been observed raging there, no vessel should venture among or through
them, unless compelled to do so.

Westward of cape Scott the tides set with considerable strength to the
north and south across the entrance to Goletas channel, and a vessel
passing out northward of the Scott islands must beware that she is not set
down too near them with the ebb stream.

Along the north side of the Scott islands, at a distance of 2 miles, are
depths of from 30 to 50 fathoms ; at 2 miles west of Triangle island are
45 fathoms, and from 5 to 6 miles southward of the group from 80 to
100 fathoms.

Cox island, 1,047 feet high, the easternmost and largest of the
group, is about 2^ miles in extent, with iron-bouud rocky shores and
several off-lying dangers. This island forms the western boundary of the
Scott channel, and is upwards of 5 miles W. by S. from cape Scott.

Lanz island, separated from Cox island by a passage half a mile
wide, is upwards of 2 miles long in a westerly direction, and one mile
broad ; its shores, like Cox island, are rocky, and it rises near the centre
to a summit 1,177 feet above the sea; both the islands are wooded.

There are 17 fathoms in the passage between Cox and Lanz islands,
and in fine weather with southerly winds a vessel may drop an anchor
northward of the former island in 14 fathoms- but at all times it is a
neighbourhood to be avoided.

East Haycock, a small islet 80 feet high, is 2^ miles south-west
from Lanz island; it has a rugged outline, and is covered with a few
stunted trees. Some small islets extend a short distance north-west
of it.

West Haycock, S miles W. J S. from East Haycock, is small and
rocky, about 180 feet high. Some small islets extend upwards of one mile
south-west of it, foul ground existing around them for half a mile. ,

Triangle island, the westernmost of the group, 25 miles W. by S.
from capo Scott, is 680 feet high, about one mile in extent, and difEers
from the other islands in being very precipitous and bare of trees, and
has a remarkable gap in its summit; a ledge or reef extends one mile
north-west of it ; to the eastward are three low islets, the outermost of
which, 40 feet high, is If miles from Triangle island.

When navigating near the Scott islands, it is recommended to give them
a good offing, especially in a sailing vessel, as the tides set very strongly
through the passages between them.

Navigation. — For steamers, the navigation of the inner waters
between cape Mudge and the Pacific is very simple, the only caution

CHAP. VI.]

SCOTT ISLANDS.

269

required being to steer mid-channel ; if the weather be fine, except
in the vicinity of the Nimpkish river, Helmcken island, and Seymour
narrows, these waters may be navigated as well by night as during the
day, the shores being so high on either side as to be easily defined.

If in a sailing vessel, unless the wind be fair and likely to remain so,
it would be preferable to anchor for the night, as the wind usually falls
after sunset, -especially during summer months.

Water is generally so plentiful that at every valley or beach a
stream will be found.

Supplies. — The natives, whenever a vessel stops, ^'ill generally bring
alongside deer, grouse, salmon, rock cod, and other fish in moderate
quantities, selling them at reasonable prices. Blankets, shirts of the most
common description, knives, beads, powder, shot, tobacco, and red paint
are very useful to barter with. To men-of-war they are usually very
civil, but crews of coasters and merchant vessels should watch them
vigilantly, as they are cunning and treacherous (especially near the
northern parts of Vancouver island), having captured several small coasters
and murdered their crews.

1-. J, l» J . ,., .1-.

' • 270 -
CHAPTER VII.

J <7

u .

.'^^ i . **'

T7EST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND, T AOM JUAN DE FUCA
- . STRAIT TO SYDNEY INLET. . -

Vabiation, 23'' 0' E. in 1888.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION.— The outer or western coast* of
Vancouver island is comprised between Bonilla point, at the entrance of
Juan de Fuca strait, and cape Scott, the north-west extreme of the island,
a distance of upwards of 200 miles. Its general direction is W.N.W.
and E.S.E., but the coast is broken into deep inlets, the principal of which,
Barclay, Clayoquot, Nootica, Kyuquot, and Quatsino sounds, are large
sheets of water, with features similar to the other great inlets on this part
of the American continent.

Making the land. — When first making the land, an unbroken
range of mountains will be seen ; on a nearer approach it appears '. Ickly
wooded, and ajparently fertile, intersected with many deep openings
and valleys, which in most cases are some of the inlets before mentioned.
The coast is mostly low and rocky, but rises immediately to mountains
of considerable height. It is fringed by numerous rocks and hidden
dangers, especially near the entrances of the sounds, and the exercise
of great caution and vigilance will be necessary on the part of the
navigator to avoid them, even with the Admiralty charts. On no
occasion, therefore, except where otherwise stated in the following pages,
should a stranger attempt to enter any of the harbours or anchorages
during night or thick weather, but rather keep a good offing until circum-
stances are favourable ; and when about to make the coast, it cannot be
too strongly impressed on the mariner to take every opportunity of
ascertaining his vessel's position by astronomical observations, as fogs and
thick weather come on very suddenly at all times of the year, more
especially in summer and autumn months ; and the current generally sets
to the south-east, across the entrance to Juan de Fuca strait {see page 10).
The use of the lead is strictly enjoined.f

WINDS. — The remarks with regard to wind and weather given in
the introductory chapter apply generally to the outer coast of Vancouver
island, with this exception, that bad weather in winter months is more
frequent there than to the southward.

* See Admiralty chart of Vancouver island, No. 1917 ; scale, m => 0'15 of an inch,
f In the vicinity of Barclay sound cape Beale will be easily recognized by the
lighthouse. The light is visible in clear weather from a distance of 19 miles.

CHAP, vn.]

lUO > GENERAL REMARKS.

fi/" .-■

271

Tides. — All along the outer or west coast of Vancouver island it may
be said to be high water at full and change when the moon crosses the
meridian, viz., at noon and midnight, the tide sh^pwing considerable
regularity as compared with the inner waters, the greatest rise and fall
being everywhere about 12 feet. There are two high and low waters in
the 24 hours alJ the year round. In summer months the superior high
water is at midnight, and in winter months at noon.

The flood stream appears to set along the coast to the north-west, and
the ebb to the south-east ; neither are of great strength, except in the
vicinity of Fuca strait and the Scott islands. In summer months a set
is generally found to the southward, and in winter in the opposite direC'
tion, but as a rule the currents are irregular, and apparently influenced by
prevailing winds.

Soundings. — At the entrance of Fuca strait the 100-fathom edge
of the bank extends 40 miles off" shore ; it then runs nearly straight
in a N.W. by W. direction, gradually neariug the coast, and abreast
cape Cook or Woody point the depth of 100 fathoms will be obtained
within 4 miles of the shore; to the north-west of Woody point the
100-fathom edge does not extend moie than 10 miles off shore, and to the
southward and westward of the Scott islands even less.

The nature of the bottom, when under 100 fathoms, appears to be
generally composed of sand and gravel, and does not differ in one part
from another si fficiently to afford any guide for ascertaining a vessel's
exact position on the coast ; the bank, however, extends far enough off
shore to the south-east of cape Cook, to enable the mariner making the
coast in thick weather, by sounding in time, to get due notice of his
approach to the land, as the edge of 100 fathoms does not come within
18 mlJes of it, and the bank shoals very gradually.

Natives. — The west coast of the island is very thinly populated, the
highest estimate of the natives not exceeding 4,000, divided into a number
of very small tribes. As a rule they are harmless and inoffensive,
though in a few cases the crews of vessels wrecked on their coasts
have been plundered and ill-treated : they are addicted to pilfering,
especially in the vicinity of Nootka sound, and ought to be carefully
watched; this is perhaps the worst charge that can be brought against
them.

All the tribes speak a different dialect, and the Chinook jargon, which
is used at Victoria in transactions with the settlers and natives, will not be
generally understood on the west coast. '

Supplies. — The natives live principally on fish, potatoes, and
berries. Fish, salmon, halibut, rock cod, herring, and hoolican, the

272

VANCOUVER ISLAND^ WEST COAST.

[OHAP. VII.

latter somewhat resembling a sardine, are found in great abundance.
Deer, grouse, and wild fowl are also to be had, but they are not by any
means so plentiful as along the north-east coast of the island.

TradO. — Furs and fish oil are the only articles of trade with the
natives, and the quani '/ of each procured is small. * ■. ' .

At the Alberni inlet in Barclay sound a large saw mill was esta-
blished in 1860 by an English company, and a considerable lumber trade
was carried on.

At Forward inlet and Coal harbour, in Quatsino sound, seams of coal of
considerable thickness have been seen, and there is no doubt that a
quantity of that valuable article is to be met with in the north-west part of
the island.

Indications of copper and iron are also plentiful, especially in Barclay
sound. In port San Juan, and in the Muchalat or Guaguina arm of
Nootka sound, some traces of gold have been met with.

The COAST* from port San Juan (page 29) trends 10 miles in a
westerly dii'ection to Bonilla point, rising gradually to elevations from
1,000 to 2,000 feet. Bonilla point, the north entrance point of Fuca
strait, is 12 miles N.N.W. from cape Flattery ; the point slopes gradually to
the sea, is not in any way remarkable, and may be approached within one
mile ; to the westward of it the coast becomes more broken, still keeping
a westerly direction, being high a short distance inland.

Nitinat la>ke> the entrance to which is narrow and shoal, is 7 miles
westward of Bonilla point. The lake is of considerable size, extending to
the northward. There are only one to 2 fathoms in the entrance, and the
sea generally breaks heavily across it in bad weather. Four miles to the
westward of the entrance is a remarkable water&ll, called by the natives
Tsusiat, which may be seen at a good distance, even in thick weatk'^*-,
when it would help to identify a vessel's position, being the only water&ll
on this part of the coast.

Faclieiia bay> 20 miles westward of Bonilla point, is nearly 2 miles
deep in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide, with from 5 to 6
fathoms water, but as it is open to the southward and south-west, and
there is usually a heavy swell setting into it, no vessel should anchor
there. At its head, on the west side, is a stream where boats can get in
and find shelter in bad weather.

Sea-bird islet, off the entrance of the bay, is bare, about 10 feet
above water, and of small extent.

* See Admiraltj chart : — Sjdney inlet to Nitinat, No. 584 ; scale, m » 0*5 of an
inch.

■CHAF. vn.]

BARCLAY SOUND.

273

A rock which does not uncover lies half a mile S.W. from Sea-bird islet,
also at one-third of a mile E. by S. ^ S. from the islet there is a similar
rock that breaks at very low tides. Sea-bird islet should not be approached
within 1^ miles.

The coast between Pachena bay and the south-east point of entrance of
Barclay sound, a distance of 3 miles, is rocky, forming an open bay that
affords no shelter.

The soundings between port San Juan and Barclay sound, at a distance
of 2 miles off shore, vary from 50 to 18 fathoms, shoaling when to the
westward ofNitinat lake, 10 miles to the southward of which will be
found less than 50 fathoms.

BARCLAY SOUND,* an extensive arm of the sea, 30 miles
westward of the eu'ranco of Fuca strait, is upwards of 14 miles wide at its
entrance, and though encumbered by numerous islands it maintains this
breadth for nearly 12 miles inland, when it separates into several narrow
inlets or canals, the principal of which, the Alberni inlet, extends 23 miles
in a northerly direction, its head reaching within 14 miles of the eastern
or inner coast of Vancouver island. Off the entrance, and in the southern
parts of the sound, arc innumerable rocks and islands, with several
navigable channels between them, which, however, ouglit to be used with
great caution by a stranger. The shores are low, except in the northern
part and among the canals, when they become high, rugged, and
mountainous.

Tides. — Tt is high water, full and change, in Barclay sound at h.,
and the rise and fall of tide is about 1 2 feet.

Soundings. — A bank of sand and gravel, with depths from 25 to 45
fathoms, extends 40 or 45 miles to the southward and westward of the
entrance of Barclay sound. In the middle of this bank is a deep hole,
the east part of which is 5 miles south-west from the entrance; from
thence the hole extends 19 miles in a W.S.W. direction, with depths
varying from 60 to 100 fathoms, so that if steering for Barclay sound
from the south-west, and the weather be thick, by attention to sounding?
a vessel might ascertain her position within a few miles. To the south-
east of the entrance the water becomes deeper, and at a distance of 10
miles off shore there are 60 to 70 fathoms, sand and mud.

There are three navigable ship channels into Barclay sound, viz., the
Eastern, Middle, and Western, and all require great caution in navigating.

The Eastern channel, on the eastern side of Barclay sound,
between the main shore and Deer islands, is 12 miles long in a N.N.E.
direction, and its breadth varies from one to 1^ miles. Its shores are

* See Admiralty plau ot'_,BarcIay sound. No. 592 j scale, m = 1-65 inches.
A 17498. g

274

VAyCOTJVEE ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[OUAP. VII.

low and rugged, except in the north part, which becomes high. The
depths in the entrance vary from 18 to 22 fathoms, increasing gra-
dually to 90 and 100 fathoms at the north part. There are several
dangers within it; viz., the rocks oflf cape Beale and Channel rocks at the
southern part, and the Fog rock off the east side of Tzaartoos island.

Cape Boale, the south-east entrance point of Barclay sound, and of
the Eastern channel, is 30 miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from the lighthouse
on Tatoosh island. It is a bold rocky point, 120 feet high, (the tops of
the trees being 300 feet above high water,) and some rocks extend off it,
from 2 to 4 cables.

LIGHT. — Situated on a small islet at the extremity of cape Beale, is a
square lighthouse coloured of a light stone colour 35 feet in height, from
which is exhibited, at an elevation of 1 64 feet above the sea, n flashing
white light, which shows a bright flash every half minute, and should be
visible in clear weather from a distance of 19 miles.

The lighthouse is situated in latitude 48° 47' 20" N., longitude
125° 13' 30" W.

Caution. — The light should not be brought to bear eastward of
E. j^ N. so as to avoid the foul ground which extends off the entrances to
Barclay sound.

Bamfield creek. — At 4 miles from cape Beale, on the east side
of the Eastern channel, is the entrance to two creeks, the southern of
which extends 1 \ miles in a southerly direction, with a breadth of from
one to 2 cables ; there is room for a vessel to moor at a short distance
from its head in 6 fathoms. A narrow passage, 30 yards wide, with 6 feet
at low water, runs from the head to an inner basin, which is one mile long,
and has from 2 to 4 fathoms. '" ~ ' "•' -v-''

Grappler creek, the northern arm, extends two-thirds of a mile to
the eastward from the entrance of Bamfield creek, being about 40 yards
wide, with from 8 to 10 fathoms, after which it takes a northerly direction
for one mile, and becomes very shoal. Both these creeks afford good
sheltered anchorage to small craft.

Kelp bay, 5| miles from cape Beale, is two-thirds of a mile wide,
one-quarter of a mile deep, and affords a fairly-sheltered anchorage in
from 6 to 14 fathoms. Its shores are low, and a rock which covers at
one-third flood lies one cable north of its south entrance point, and
there is a small islet at its north point, which shows a conspicuous
white mark ; foul ground, marked by kelp, exists in the north part of the

bay.

If intending to anchor in this bay, give the entrance points a berth of
2 cables, and anchor in its south part in 6 or 14 fathoms, with the entrance

CHAP. Tu.] BABCLAY SOUND ; EASTERN CHANNEL.

275

points bearing S.W. by W. and N. by E. This anchorage is easy of access,
but the bottom is irregular.

Mark islet, 8 miles from cape Beale, and one cable off the east side
of the channel, is small and wooded, and conspicuous from the entrance
of the Middle channel ; the shore between it and Kelp bay runs nearly
straight, and may be approached to within a distance of 2 cables.

Numukamis bay, 9 miles from cape Beale, at the north-east part
of the Eastern channel, is of an oblong shape, 3 miles wide and 1^ miles
deep ; its shores rise gradually to mountains from 1,000 to 2,000 feet
high. From the centre of its head the Sarita valley extends away to
the eastward, a stream of considerable size flowing from it into the
Day. In the centre of the bay are the San Jose and Reef islets, of small
extent, and low ; from the south point of the latter islet a reef extends one
cable. ' /' '' ' '' ' ■ '■•>•;:'.,''' •■ .- V,'!' •■■■'-■' >;•;.■■';

The depths in Numukamis bay are from 70 to 105 fathoms, and there
is no anchorage except in Christie bay, in its south corner, where there are
from 10 to 6 fathoms at a distance of 1^ cables from the shore. The shores
of Numukamis bay are steep-to, except off Sarita valley, where a sand-bank
extends out half a mile.

Foett nook, in the south part of this bay, about one mile within
its south-west point, is a landlocked basin, about 3 cables long and 2
cables wide, with 7 fathoms water. The entrance to it is nearly straight,
one cable long, and 150 feet wide, with 7 fathoms in the shoalest part ; it
is diflBcult for large vessels to enter unless they warp in.

There are three small creeks on the north side of Numukamis bay, but
the water is too deep for anchorage.

Turn island, at the north-east point of the Eastern channel, and
dividing it from the Alberni channel, is small and wooded, and separated
by a narrow boat pass from the east shore. At one-third of a mile south
of it is a narrow creek, 3 cables long and half a cable wide, with from 9 to
12 fathoms, available for small craft.

Ship islet, at the south-west point of the Eastern channel, 2 miles
N.W. i N., from cape Beale, is 100 feet high, and rocky, with a few remark-
able trees on its northern part, which at some distance seaward give the islet
the appearance of a ship under sail, forming a good mark for identifying
the channel ; there are depths of from 23 to 24 fathoms at 2 cables' distance
from it.

DEER ISLANDS form the western boundary of the Eastern
channel, and extend in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction for 10 miles,
with a breadth varying from one to 2 miles. They are low, and of

s 2

276

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[CH\P. VII.

inconsiderable size, except the northern (Tzaartoos island), which is 1,026
feet hi}:;!! in parts, and of considerable extent. 'J'licro is only one navigable
passage through them, the Satellite pass, between Holby and Hill islands.

King island, the southernmost of these islands, is from 300 to 400
feet high, about one mile long and half a mile broad ; its shores are very
rugged and broken, with rocks extending from one to 2 cables off". This
island is separated from Ship islet by a passage one-third of a mile wide
but there is a rock in the middle of it, which is awash at higli water.

Channel rocks, on the west side of the channel, !J cables east of
King island, and one mile E.N.E. from Ship islet, are about one cable in
extent, and cover at half flood ; there are 10 to 12 fathoms at the distance
of one cable to the eastward of them, and the sea generally breaks over
them ; they must be carefully avoided.

Leading mark. — Turn island, at the north-east point of the Eastern
channel, shut in by Leading bluff of Tzaartoos island bearing N. by E. | E.,
leads 4 cables east of the Channel rocks, and one cable west of the rocks
off cape Beale.*

Diana island, 350 to 400 feet high, separated from King island
by a passage full of rocks, is of triangular shape, about 1^ miles long,
and three-quarters of a mile broad ; its shores are rocky. Taylor islet,
50 feet high, lies 3 cables S.S.W. ^ W. from its south-east point.

Todd rock. — At a distance of 2 cables from the east side of Diana
island is the Todd rock, a rock awash at high water, with 16 fathoms close
to it.

Entrance anchorage.*— Helby island, the next island

northward of Diana, has off its north side a small but well-sheltered
anchorage in from 6 to 9 fathoms, easy of access from either the Eastern
or Middle channels, and very convenient as a stopping place for vessels
entering or leaving Barclay sound.

Wizard islet, to the northward of thp. anchorage, is small, about
8 feet high, and bare. It is about 4 cablr;, north of Helby island, and
vessels intending to anchor should do so about one cable south-west of the
islet in 6 fathoms.

Hill island, two-thirds of a mile north of Helby island, and separated
from it by the Satellite pass, is small, with a summit of moderate height at
its southern end. At a quarter of a mile south of it is a patch of 3^ fathoms,
marked by kelp, and there are several small islets and rocks off its east and
'West sides.

* Set View B. on Admiralty chart, No. 584,

f See plan of Entrance anchorage on Admiralty chart, No. 584; scale, m — 3 inches.

CHAP, vii] BARCLAY SOUND ; EASTERN CHANNEL.

277

Robbers islOiIld, sopftiuteil from Hill iHlnr».l by a piinsago full of
rocks, is 2 luilos long and ono mile (moii I at its widest part. It is low,
and steep-to on the eastern side, aiul Wtw een it and Tza4irtoo8 island is a
small landlocked basin of 5 to 7 fathoms water, but almost inaccessible in
consequence of the many rocks at its entrance.

TzaartOOS or Copper island, the northernmos* of the Deer
islands, is 4J mil(!S long in a N.N.E. direction, and 1 J iiiiies broad. It is
higher than the other islands, rising in many parts to 800 and its summit
to 1,026 feet; its eastern side, except in the vicinity of Sproat bay, is
steep-to, and may be approached to within a distance of 2 cables. Lime-
stone of a fine quality is to be found in its nortlu-rn |)art, and there are
several indications of copper and iron ores.

Sproat bay, on the east side of Tzaartoos island, is about half a mile
•wide and 2 cables deep. In its centre arc two small islets, and between
them and the southern side of the bay a vessel may anchor in from 11 to
15 fathoms.

Leading blmil', situated just south of the bay, is a steep point 405
feet high, and conspicuous from the entrance of the Eastern channel.

Fog rook, lying about 2 cables oast of Sproat bay, is of small extent,
with only 9 feet over it, and steep-to all round. This danger is in the
track of vessels using Sproat bay, and requires caution to avoid it, not
being marked by kelp in the spring.

The east sides of Hill and Robbers islands open of LoadingJblufF bearing
S.W. I S., lead south-east of Fog rock, and the west side of Nob point
well open east of Limestone point N. \ W. leads well east of it.

Nob point, the south-west entrance point of Alberni inlet, and
north-west point of Eastern channel, is about half a mile to the north-
ward of Tzaartoos island, and nearly 1.3 miles from cape Beale. It is
a remarkable cliffy projecting point 475 feet high, steep-to on its soutk.
and east sides.

ALBERNI INLET, at the north-east part of Barclay sound, runs
in a winding northerly direction for 22 miles, with a breadth varying from
2 cables to one mile, and terminates in a fine capacious anchorage at its
head ; the shores on either side are rocky and rugged, rising abruptly from
the sea to mountains 2,000 and 3,000 feet high ; at the head, however,
the land becomes low and fertile, a large extent being fit for cultivation.
A settlement and large saw mills arc established tJiere, and quantities of
timber exported. There is also a salmon fishery.

The depths to within one mile of the head vary from 160 to 40
fathoniB, and the shores of the inlet are everywhere free from danger^

278

VANCOUVEE ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. ^'II

The entrance between Nob point and Turn island lies at the termination
of the Eastern channel, 13 miles N.N.E. from cape Beale. '

San MaetO bay, on the east side of the inlet, 1^ miles north of Turn
point, is three-quarters of a mile wide, and one mile deep ; its shores are
high, and the soundings in it vary from 20 to 50 fathoms, being too deep
for anchorage,

Mutine point, midway between this bay and Turn island, is rocky,
and ag at a short distance off it a rock is said to exist, a berth of 2 cables
should be given in passing. Just south of this point is a small bay with
irregular soundings from 11 to 17 fathoms, which might be used as a
stopping plate.

UCHUCKLESIT HARBOUR,* on the west side of Alberni
inlet, 2 miles within Nob point, is 3 miles long in a westerly direction, and
its average breadth is about half a mile ; the north shore is high, rising
gi'adually to mountains of 2,000 and 3,000 feet, but the south shores and
head are low ; all are free from danger at a distance of one cable. The
depths vary from 20 to 40 fathoms, and there are two secure anchorages.
Green cove at the entrance, and Snug basin at the head, -with from 9 to
15 fathoms water. Limestone of a very fine quality is to be procured at
the head of the harbour.

Green cove, just within the entrance, on the north side of harbour,
affords a snug, well-sheltered anchorage, in from 9 to 14 fathoms. Harbour
island, off its south side, and completely landlocking the anchoi'age in that
direction, is of small extent, with a clear deep passage on either side into
the anchorage ; a rock lies half a cable off' its south-east point.

This anchorage is convenient as a stopping place for vessels bound to
or from Stamp harbour at the head of Alberni inlet, and the entrances to
it, on either side of Harbour island, make it available to sailing vessels
or steamers.

Steamer passage, on the east side of Harbour island, leads into Green
cove ; it is 2 cables long, aud about 150 yards wide in the narrowest part,
with not less than 9 fathoms, but it should only be used by steam vessels,
or sailing ships with a fair wind.

Sllip passage, which leads into Green cove north of Harbour island,
is 4 cables long, aud 2 cables wide, clear of danger, with from 11 to 20
fathoms, and available for sailing ships unable to enter or leave Green cove
oy Steamer passage.

Snug basin, on the north side of the head of Uchucklesit harbour, is
half a mile long in u ;uortherly direction, about 2 cables broad, is well

* See plaii of Uchucklesit harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 384 ; scale, m «» 3 inchcp.
In Uchucklesit harbour spring tides rise 12 feet. - -

CHAP. Til.] ALBERNI INLET. — STAMP HAEBOUR.

279

adapted for refitting or repairing a ship, and affords anchorage in 12 to
14 fathoms ; but the entrance, though deep, is only 150 feet wide.

Water. — On the north shore, one mile from Green cove, is a large
stream of fresh water, with a bank extending a short o.^taiice off it.

From Uchucklesit harbour, Alberni inlet trends N.E. by E. for
3 miles, and is steep-to on both sides, after which it takes a N. by W.
direction to its head.

Nahmillt bay, on the west side of Alberni inlet, 10 miles within
its entrance, is about half a mile in extent, with from 19 to 20 fathoms
water, and may be used as a stopping place, if working down the inlet ;
a large stream disembogues at its head.

The First narrows, 13 miles from the entrance of the inlet, are

3 cables wide at low water, steep-to on the west side, with 26 fathoms in
mid-channel ; if passing through them at high water, keep well over to the
western shore.

The Second narrows, is miles from the entrance, are 2 cables wide
at low water, steep-to on the east side ; the west side dries out one cable at
iow water. The depth in mid-channel is 40 fathoms ; and in going through
them a vessel ought to keep well over on the eastern side.

STAMP HARBOUR, at the head of Alberni inlet, is a capacious
and secure anchorage, 2 miles in length, and varying in breadth from

4 cables to one mile. Its western shore is high and rocky, but the eastern
side and head are low and fertile, with a quantity of clear level land,
almost fit for cultivation. The Somass river, a stream of considerable size,
flows into the head of the harbour, and is navigable for canoes several miles ;
it has its source in a chain of extensive lakes in the interior of Vancouver
island, and the quantity of water discharged from it is so great that there
is a constant current out of the iulet, often exceeding one knot in
strength. There is a settlement about 1^ miles up the river, which is

Great quantities of the finest timber in the world for spars are exported
from this place, and vessels of considerable size may lie close to the saw
millt without grounding, as there are 4 fathoms almost alongside it.

Observatory islet, in the centre of the harbour, is a small bare
rock about feet above high water ; some rocks extend half a cable north
of it, but it may be approached within one cable. . ...

♦ Commander F. Edwards, H.M.S. Mnline, 1884.

t A steam-tug is nttached to the saw-mill establishment situatcl at the head of Stamp
harbour for the purpose of towing vessels through the Eaaiern channel j when a
vessel is expected the tug generally lies iu Dodger cove, at the entrance of Middle
channel, where a good look-out can be kept. It is believed that this establishment has
sinov been abandoned.

280

VANCOUVER ISLAND : WEST COAST.

[CIUP. VII.

Sheep islet, in the north-west part of harbour, and 6 cables from
Observatory islet, is wooded, and connected to the head of the harbour
at low water by a saud-bank.

Anchorage. — The anchorage in the harbour is in 8 to 12 fathoms, at
tha distance of three-quarters of a mile from the head, with Observatory
inlet S.W.*

Supplies. — Game is plentiful, and there is excellent fishing in the
river aud Uxkes. Fresh beef, vegetables, and fruit are plentiful and cheap.

Directions for BARCLAY SOUND.— Entering Barclay sound
through the Eastern channel, the Sv^uth-east entrance point, cape Beale>
may be easily recognised from the south-east, by the lighthouse and by the
islands west of it. Ship islet being also very conspicuous from the trees on its
north part. When approaching or rounding the cape do not come nearer than
half amile to avoid the rocks off it, until Turn island at the north part of
Eastern channel is well shut in by Leading bluff (Tzaartoos island) bearing
N. by E. I E.,f when steer up the Eastern channel with that mark on,
which will lead clear of the rocks off the west side of cape Beale, and east
of Channel rocks. "When north point of Ship island is in line with south
point of King island bearing S.W. by W. | W., the vessel will be well
north of the latter, and may then steer up mid-channel about N.N.E. ; on
nearing Leading bluff, keep the east side of Hill island open south of it
bearing S.W. | S., to pass east of the Fog rock, until the west side of Nob
point comes open east of Limestone point bearing N. ^ W., when steer up
within 2 cables of either shore, or in mid-channel. If bound to Stamp
harbour, after entering Alberni inlet keep in mid-channel, except when pass-
ing through the First and Second narrows, and anchor on the eastern side
of the harbour with the bearings already given.

After entering Alberni inlet, a strong southerly wind will generally be
^icrienced, blowing home to the heaci ; it, however, usually falls a little
luring the night.

If beating into the Eastern channel (which should only be done by
small or quick working vessels), when standing towards cape Beale, tack
liefore the passage between Turn island and the main comes open of
Leadi.ng bluff bearing N.N.E. Ship islet may be approached to within a
quarter of a mile ; when nearing King island, or the Channel rocks, tack
when Turn island becomes shut in with Leading bluff. As a rule, in
standing towards the east shore do not approach within 2 cables, and after
passing the Channel rocks, keep outside of the line of Deer islands. On
nearing Leading bluff and Fog rock, keep Hill island oi)en of the former

* It is high water, full and change, in Stamp harbour, at Oh. ; springs rise '2 fret,
t See View B. on Admiralty chart, No. 684.

CHAP.vn.] BARCLAY SOTJKD ; MIDDLE CHANNEL.

281

bearing S.W. J S., till Nob point comes well open of Limestone point
N. i W., which clears the Fog rock to the south and north-east ; when
standing into Numukamis bay, give lleef and San Jose islands a berth of
about 2 cables, after which the shore on either side may be approached
to about one cable, except near the centre of Numukamis bay, which should
not be approached closer than half a mile.

AnCllOragOS. — if necessary to anchor, Entrance anchorage in the
Deer group, just north of Helby island, is recommended, being secure, aad
easy of access from either Eastern or Middle channels. Kelp, Sproat
Christie, and Nahmint bays, also Green cove, are easy of access, and may
be used as stopping places.

MIDDLE CHANNEL, the largest passage irio Barclay sound,
is adjacent to the Eastern channel, and separated from it by the Deer
islands. It is upwards of 12 miles long in a north-north-east direction
and 3 miles wide in the narrowest part, being bounded on either side
by numerous small islands and rocks. The depths within it vary from'
30 to 54 fathoms, and off its entrance are three dangers, viz., Western
reef, Channel reef, and Danger rock, which only break in heavy weather,
and require great caution iyj avoid. In southerly or south-westerly gales
there is generally a very heavy sea ir. this channel.

Danger rock, in the south-eaL't part of entrance to Middle channel,
3i miles W. ^ N. from cape Beale, and 2^ miles S.W. by W. ^ W.
from Ship islet, is of small extent, and the sea only breaks on it in heavy
weather. There are from 22 to 40 fathoms at a distance of 2 cables
around it.

Leading marks. — Swiss Boy island just open west of Entrance
inland bearing N.N.E. (northerly) leads half a mile east of Danger rock ;
>i»rk islet open north of Ragged islet bearing N.E. leads three-quarters
'.i' a mile west of it, and the same distance east of Channel reef;* and
bi»i- rock in sight west of Storm island bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. leads
oior' b of it and Channel reef.

Channel reef ht-'s near the centre of the entrance to Middle
channel, 3^ miles W. | S. from Ship islet, and 1^ miles W.N.W. from
Danger rock. It is about one cable in extent, uncovers at low water, and
has 27 fathoms close-to on the eastern side ; there are from 19 to 50 fathoms
in the channel between it and Danger rock, and the same marks clear
both of them. ♦ >

Western reef lies in the south-west part of entrance to Middle
channel, 5^ miles W. J S. from Ship islet, and one mile south of the
broken group. It is about one cable in extent, awash at low water, and
should not be approached within half a mile.

♦ See View C. on Admiralty chart, No. 6Si.

282

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. vu.

In bad weather the sea breaks heavily over all these reefa.

EntrancO islailld., at the south-east point of Middle channel, and
nearly one mile W.N.W. from Ship islet, is of small extent, and rtrocded ;
the tops of the trees being 350 feet above high water. It is ste^p-to and
cliffy on the south and west sides ; one-quarter of a mile north-east of it is
a small islet and some off-lying rocks.

Hecate passage, leading into the Middle channel between Entrance
island and Danger rock, is 2 miles wide, with depths of from 33 to 74
fathoms, and is the best way to enter Middle channel in thick weather, or
from the southward or eastward.

Shark pass, between Entrance and Ship islands, is two-thirds of a
mile wide, with from 14 to ^T fathoms in the middle, and may be used
by steamers, or sailing vessels: / fair wind. • m :.< .

Dodger cove. — Between L . and King islands are two small islands
(Hains and Seppings) connected to each other by a reef. Dodger cove,
on the east side of Middle channel, is situated between these islands and
Diana island, and is a narrow creek about two-thirds of a mile long and
sne cable wide, with several rocks and small islets oft its entrance. It
affords good shelter to coasters or small craft at its head, where are from
2| to 3 fathoms water, but it should not be attempted by a stranger, as
the entrance along the south side of Diana island is rather intricate.*

Ragged islet, a quarter of a mile west oi Helby island on the east
side of the channel, is rocky and of small extent, with a few trees on its
summit ; the west side may be approached to within a distance of about
2 cables, but it is connected to Helby island by a ridge of rocks, and no
vessel should attempt to go through.

SATELLITE PASS, 3 miles from Entrance island, lies between
Helby and Hill islands, connecting the Eastern and Middle channels. It is
about one mile long and half a mile wide ; the depths in the middle varying
from 9 to 22 fathoms, and the south side is clear of danger, but 3 cables
south of Hill island on the north side of the pass is a shoal patch of
3^ fathoms, marked by kelp ; Leading bluff open of east side of Hill
island bearing N.E. by N. leads to the south-east of this shoal.

A vessel bound to Alberni inlet, after having entered Middle channel,
should proceed through this pass into the Eastern channel and on to the
inlet through the ktter, keeping about one or 2 cables north of Bagged,
Helby, and Wizard islands. ,. , . , \ . . , ,r«

Village rocks, lying on the east side of Middle channel, 6 milea
from Entrance island, and one-third of a mile from the north-west point

♦ Dodger cove is frequented between January and July, especially in bad weather,
by the vessels engaged in the seal fishery.

CHAP. VII.] BARCLAY SOUND ; MIDDLE CHANNEL.

283

of Robbers island, are 2 cables in extent, nearly awash at low water, and
the sea usually breaks on them in heavy weather ; they should not be
approached within a quarter of a mile. Between Robbers and Tzaartoos
islands is a small landlocked basin about 2 cables in extent (page 277),
with from 5 to 7 fathoms, but the entrance to it from the Middle channel,
though deep, is very intricate.

Chain islands, on the east side of Middle channel, ai-e a chain of
small islets and rocks nearly 4 miles long in a northerly direction. They
lie parallel to the west side of Tzaartoos island, being separated from it
by a passage three-quartern of a mile wide, but filled with rocks, and
through which no vessel should attempt to pass. >

Swiss-boy island, '*he southernmost of [this group, is small and
cliffy. Bull rock 2 cables west of it is of small extent, and has less than
2 fathoms water on it, which breaks in bad weather.

Caution- — A vessel should not approach the west side of these
islands within half a mile, except when rounding their north part.

JUNCTION PASSAGE, at the north-east part of Middle channel,
connecting it with Alberni inlet and Eastern channel, lies north of the
Chain and Tzaartoos island" between them and the main. It is 2 miles
long in an easterly direction, about one-third of a mile wide, its shores
are clear of danger ; the depths in mid-channel varying from 50 to 84
fathoms. On the north side of the passage is Rainy bay, about 1^ miles
in extent ; but there are several rocks and small islets within it, the
shores are rugged and broken, and the water too deep to afford anchorage.
Northward of this bay, and connected to it by a very narrow boat pass,
is Useless arm, a large sheet of water with from 9 to 20 fathoms,
not accessible to vessels. '

Broken group, which forms the boundary of Middle channel along
the west side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks, covering
a space upwards of 6 miles long and 4 wide. They are low and the
principal ones wooded, the -largest being about one mile in extent ; there
are several passages through them, and a good anchorage (Island harbour),
in their north-east part, but as a rule no stranger should venture amon"
them or approach within half a mile, as the depths are irregnlor, and other
rocks may exist besides those known. ._:...,.

Redonda, the south-east island of this group, lies at .he south-west
entrance point of Middle channel, 4^ miles W. ^ N. frora Ship islet. It
is small, wooded, and of a round shape ; some rocks extend 3 cables off" its
south-east point, and half a mile E.N.E. of it is a reef which covere at
half-flood. Between Redonda island and Channel reef is a passage one

284

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. VII.

mile wide, with from 19 to 33 fathoms, but it should not be attempted by
a stranger.

VillagO island, the largest of the group, is 1^ miles north of
Redonda, and upwards of one mile in extent ; the east side is bold and
cliffy, with 24 fathoms at one cable's distance. On its north side is a
village of considerable size, where landing maybe effected in almost all
weather. Off its west side are several rocks, and a small bay, where a
vessel may anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoms, but it is difficult of access.

Coaster diamiel, which runs in a westerly direction through
Broken group, north of Village island, is about 4 miles long, and from
half a mile to one mile wide, and has depths of from 10 to 24 fathoms in
it ; but as there are several I'ocks within it, this channel should not be
attempted by a stranger.

A sunken rock lies in Coaster channel 3 cables N.W. \ N. from the
north end of Grassy island.*

Village reef, in the east part of Coaster channel, half a mile north
of Village island, is small, and 4 feet above high water ; there is a depth
of 34 fathoms at 3 cables east of it.

ISLAND HARBOUR,t formed by several rocks and islands,
in the north-east part of Broken group, viz.. Protection island on the east,
Puzzle and Gibraltar islands on the north, and MuUins and Keith islands,
on the west, is 5 miles from the entrance to Middle channel ; it is a good,
well-sheltered anchorage, about half a mile in extent, with from 10 to 14
fathoms water ; and Ihere are two good passages into it from Middle
channel.

Protecticn island, 250 to 300 feet high, off its east side, protecting
it in that direction, is two-thirds of a mile long, narrow, and its shore is
rugged and broken, but it may be approach(id to within a distance of one
cable ; there are two small bare islets one cable from its south shore, and
almost connected to it at low water.

Observation islet, 30 feet high, and another small islet to the south of it,
lie half a cable from the middle of the south side of Protection island.

Elbow island, 3 cables S.8.W. from Protection island, is 30 feet
high, small and rugged, with a notch in the centre ; there are a few trees
on it, and the island is conspicuous from the southward. .

Elbow rocks, which cover at two-thirds flood, lie 1^ cables N.N.E.
from Elbow island, between it and Protection island, and are steep-to on
all sides.

• Mr. John Devereux.

f Ste plan of Island harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 58-1 ; scale, m = 6 inches.

CHAP. VII.] BARCLAY SOUND; MIDDLE CHANNEL.

285

Several small islets and roofs, some above water and some covering
at one-third flood, lie in almost a straight line between Elbow island and
the north-east point of Keith island ; these with Elbow rocks form the
western limit of the south entrance channel to the harbour.

FillIiaC6 rock, 3 cables East of Elbow island, almost in the fairway
of the South entrance, only breaks in heavy weather, and is dangerous to
vessels entering the harbour by that passage.

Chaniiel rock, in the middle of Harbour entrance, 4 cables from its
east end, is of small extent, with only 9 feet on it at low water.

Directions. — island harbour may be entered either by the South
or by the Harbour entrance. The South entrance, between the Elbow
rocks and Protection island, is 1^ cables wide at its south part, with from
8 to 14 fathoms water. Harbour entrance, along the north side of Pro-
tection island, between it and Gibraltar island, is nearly one mile long,
with an average breadth of about 2 cables ; the depths within it vary from
L5 to 18 fathoms.

Entering the harbour by the Sou(h entrance, steer for the south-
east point of Protection island, on a W. by N. bearing, to avoid Pinnace
rock ; if the Elbow rocks are covered, keep along the south side of
Protection island, about half a cable distant, till past them, when steer
to the westward for the anchorage, passing about one cable south of the
islets off Protection islanJ. Coming in through Harbour entrance, after
entering it in mid-channel keep about half a cable from the north side of
Protection island till clear of Channel rock.

No one should attempt to enter this harbour without the chart, unless
thoroughly acquainted with the place ; and it should only be entered by
sailing vessels with a fair wind.

AncllOragC- — The best anchorage is near the centre of the harbour,
about 2 cables west of the north-west end of Protection island, in from
10 to 12 fathoms, protected from the northward and from the westward
by Puzzle, Keith, and Mullins islands.

Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Island harbour at
12 hours ; springs ri c 12 feet.

Nettle island, the north-east island of Broken group, is nearly
one mile in extent, steep-to off its north side, but east and west of it islets

and rocks extend out half a mile.

•-

Swale rock, at half a mile east of the east point of Nettle island, is a
small bare rock 8 feet above high water, which is very conspicuous from
the Middle channel, and marks the east entrance of Sechart chaunt 1.

286

VANCOUVER ISLAND; WEST COAST.

[chap. vn.

SECHART CHANNEL, north of Broken group, between it and
the main, connects tlie Western and Middle channels. It is a winding
channel 5 miles long in a westerly direction, and about half a mile wide ;
the depths in it varying from 16 to 35 fathoms, and a mid-channel course
through is free of danger.

A rock that only uncovers at low- water spring tides lies 2^ cables
S.W. f S. from Sechart village, and 1 J cables N.W. J N. from the western-
most of the Hundred islands.*

Capstail island, 3 miles from the east entrance and nearly in the
middle of this channel, is small, and the southernmost of a number of small
islands extending nearly one mile from the north shore ; a rock lies half
a cable south of it, but the island may be rounded at one-quarter of a
mile. Westward of these islets is the extensive village of Sechart, off
which a vessel may anchor one-quarter of a mile from the shoi-e in
14 fathoms, open however to the south-west.

Northward of Sechart channel the west side of Middle channel is
bounded by cwo narrow islands about 2 miles in length, and sepai-ated
from the mainland by a narrow boat pass ; they should not be approached
nearer than half a mile.

Bird islets, two small, bare, conspicuous rocks, lie almost in the centre
of the north part of Middle channel, 9 miles from the entrance ; the
southern islet is 35 feet, and the northern 30 feet above high water ; some
rocks, which cover, extend one cable north and west of them.

EFFINGHAM INLET, the entrance to which is in the north-
west part of Middle channel, is narrow, and about 8 miles long in a curved
direction to the north-west, terminating in a low swamp ; its shores on
both sides are high and rocky, the western being indented by several bays.
The depths in it vary from 35 to more than 70 fathoms, and there is no
anchorage ; off its south entrance point are some small islets and rocks
extending one mile to the eastward.

A sunken rock lies 3^ cables N.E. J E. from the north end of Webster
island, and nearly one cable distant from the east shore of Effingham
inlet.

Vernon bay, one mile east of Effingham inlet, at the head of Middle
channel, is upwards of one mile in extent, open to the southward, and
too deep to afford anchorage ; its shores are high and rocky. - **'• -

Edward rock. — At 3 cables SE. from Palmer point, the south-west
extreme of Vernon bay, is Edward rock, 3 feet above high water, and 2
cables off the east shore of the bay ; just within the entrance is a reef
awash at high water.

♦ Mr. John Devereux.

CHAP, vii.] BARCLAY SOUND ; SECHART CHANNEL.

287

The north shore of Middle channel is rocky and bold, rising in some
places to mountains upwards of 3,000 foet high ; it is steep-to and clear
of danger ; in southerly winds the sea breaks violently along it.

Direotions. — Entering Barclay sound by the Middle channel with
a fair wind, and coming from the west or south-west, keep well clear of
the western part of the sound, and 3 miles south of Broken group. Steer
towards Ship islet on an E.N.E. bearing, until Mark islet comes open
north of Ragged islet bearing N.E.,* when haul into the Middle channel
with that mark on, which will lead midway between Channel reef and
Danger rock ; when Ship islet bears E. by N. the vessel will be north of
these reefs, and may then steer up in mid-channel. If bound to Alberni
inlet, a sailing vessel should proceed through Satellite pass into the
Eastern channel, (as the wind is generally unsteady in Junction pas-
sage,) proceeding as before directed (see pp. 280, 282) for the latter channel.
Should it, however, be requisite to gu through Junction passage, give
the Chain islands a berth of nearly half a mile to avoid the rocks off
them, and proceed in mid-channel through the passage into Alberni inlet.

Unless intending to go through Satellite pass, do not approach the Deer
islands within half a mile.

If entering Middle channel from the eastward, or in thick weather
and not able to see the marks for clearing the reefs, keep well out until
Entrance island bears North, when steer through Hecate passage so as
to pass 2 or 3 cables west of the island, which will lead well eastward of
all danger, then proceed as above directed.

Beating into Middle channel, when south of Danger rock and Channel
reef, keep Sail rock (which lies off the south-west side of Broken group, and
is very conspicuous) open south of Storm island, the southernmost of the
group, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W., until Mark islet comes nearly in line
with the south-east point of Hill island N.E. J E., when, if standing to the
westward, tack ; in standing to the eastward avoid shutting in the passage
between Hill island and Ragged islet, which should be kept well open;
tacking when these latter marks are on will lead between Danger and Channel
reefs, and clear of them ; when Ship islet bears East, a vessel will be north-
ward of them, and may stand over to within about half a mile of the Deer
islands and one mile of Broken group. If bound to Alberni inlet, when
able to lay through the Satellite pass do so, keeping nearer to its south
shore, and beat up to the former through the Eastern channel. No
vessel should attempt to beat through Middle channel unless the weather
be clear and the marks well made out.

A vessel may go between Entrance island and Danger rock, to the
northward of the latter and Channel reef, by keeping Sea-bird islet

-,,, * 5ee view C. on Admiralty chart. No. 584.

288

VANCOUVER ISLAND; WEST COAST.

[OHAF. VII.

at the entrance of Pachena bay, well shut in by rape Boale bearing
E. by S. 'i S.

WESTERN CHANNEL, leading into Barclay 90un<l westward
of the Broken group, between it and Great bank, is about 4 miles long in a
northerly direction, and from one to 2 miles broad, and except in tho
vicinity of Broken group it is clear of danger, the depths varying from 20
to 35 fathoms.

SeH rock, lying off the south-west part of Broken group, is a bare
rock like a sail, rising 100 feet above the sea, and very conspicuous ;
to tho northward of it are some low islets and rocks extending from
the south-west island of the group; and on the east side of tlie Western
channel foul ground projects in some places as far as half a mile off the
west side of the group.

Black rock, at the south-west entrance point of the Western
channel, 3^ miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Sail rock, is 10 feet above high
water, and small ; some rocks which break extend 2 cables east of it.

Great Bear islet, 30 feet high, lies 11 miles N.N.E. from Black
rock; about half a cable off its east end there is a rock awash.

Channel rock at the south-east extreme of the Great bank, on the
west side of the Western channel, is 15 feet above high water, bare,
and steep-to on its eastern side.

Great Bank i9> within the lO-fathom edge, 2^^ miles long in a
northerly direction, and its greatest breadth is 1^ miles ; on the shoalest
parts, near the north and south-west ends, are from 3 to 4 fathoms, marked
by kelp, over which in heavy gales the sea breaks.

Shag rock, 8 feet above high water, on the east side of tho
channel, 2J miles N. J W. from Sail rock, and half a mile west of the
Broken group, is small and bare, and foul ground exists ono cable
from it.

Round island, near the middle of the north part of the channel,
3^ miles N. by W. from Sail rock, is small, but 200 feet high.

Beacon. — A beacon has been erected near the summit of Round island.
The structure is conical in shape, 40 feet high, and whitewashed ; and is
surmounted l)y a mast and spire 15 feet high, and 155 feet above high-
water mark.

Gowlland, Table, and Castle islets, at the northern termina-
tion of AVestern channel, are small, but steep- to on their south sides. At
2 cables north-west of Table islet is a rock, awash at high water, and half
a mile north-east from it is a patch 3 cables in extent, with from 4 to
7 fathoms ; the best passage into Toquart harbour appears to be to the

CHAP. VII.] BARCLAY SOUND ; WESTERN CUANNEL.

289

eastward of theso islets. A rock which dries 9 feet lies about three-
quarters of a cable eastward of GowUand islet.

Be&COn. — A beacon consisting of a whitewashed wooden conicnl-
shaped structure 40 feet high, surmounted by a mast and triangle 10 feet
high, stands on the summit of Castle islet. The beacon is 94 feet above
high-water mark.

Directions. — 'I'he Western channel, though clear of danger and wide,
should only be used by steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and
not then unless bound to Toquart harbour, in the north-western part of
Barclay sound. When entering, give the Sail and Black rocks a berth of
half a mile, and steer up in mid-channel, passing half a mile west of Round
island.

Leading mark. — Keep the beacon on Castle islet well open to
westward of that on Hound island, bearing North, which will lead between
the reefs three-quarters of a mile clear of all danger.

PEACOCK CHANNEL lies through the north-west part of
Broken group in a north-east direction from the Western to Sechart channel.
It is about .3 miles long, and nearly one mile wide, with depths of from
20 to 30 fathoms.

A rock lies nearly in the centre of the channel midway between Doddand
Pender islands. It has 4 feet water on it, and lies 4^ cables S. by W. ^ W.
from south end of Pender island.*

Galley rock, ou the east side of Peacock channel 1§ miles within the
west entrance, and 2 cables west of Puzzle island, uncovers at low water,
and has 22 fathoms one cable south-west of it. Peacock channel is fit for
steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair wind ; the only caution required
in navigating it is to keep the north shore aboard till past Galley rock.

Hand island, the north-west island of the Broken group, and at the
south-west entrance point of Sechart channel, is small and rugged ; foul
ground exists off its easl and west sides, which should not be approached
within 3 cables.

Lyall point, at the north-west extreme of Sechart channp r the
mainland, and one mile N.W. by N. from Hand island, is a low, sharp
point, with a sandy beach round it ; there is a depth of 18 fathoms within
one cable of it. n ? . • . .

MAYNE BA7, northward of Lyall point, is of an oblong shape,
2 miles long and one mile deep. Its shores, except near the north part,
are low and steep-to, the depths in it vary from 20 to 25 fathoms, and
there is no anchorage except in its south-east corner, where there is
a limited area with 14 fathoms at about 2 cables off shore.

* Mr. John Devereux.

A 17498.

290

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[CIIAP. VII.

The Sisters, « gfoup of small islets, extending 5 <!iiblc8 south-
ward of the north-west point of Mayne bay, may bo approached to one
cablfc.

Stopper islands, 'yJng half a milo west of Mayne bay, are about
1^ miles in extent, wooded, and 20() feet high ; the rocks extend from

2 to 3 cables off their east and west sides.

Larkins island lies close off their west side ; a reef awash at high water
extends 2^ cables N.N.W. from its north end.

St. Ines Island lies to the southward of Stopper islands, 1 ^ miles
W.S.W. from Lyall point.

David channel, leading irto Toquart harbour between Mayne bay
and the Stopper islands, is about 2 miles long in a northerly direction,

3 cables wide in its narrowest part, and the depths in it vary from 17 to
22 fathoms.

Richard rock, on its west side, 4 cables from the Stopper islands,
is steep-to on the east side, and may be approached to within one cable's
distance ; n vessel should not pass between this rock and the islands.

Hermit islet, 3 cables north of the Stopper islands, at the north-west
point of David channel, is low, with 20 fathoms close-to ; at 2 cables
N.W. by W. from it is a small rock, 2 feet above high water.

TOQUART HARBOUR, in the north-west corner of Barclay
sound, 9 miles from the entrance of Western channel, is about 1^ miles in
extent, and well sheltered from all winds by the Stopper islands. Its
shores are low and steep-to, except from the head, where Black patch, a
shoal with 9 feet on its outer part, extends out nearly half a mile.

Image island, lying 3 cables off shore in the north-east part of the
harbour, is small, and may bo approached pretty close ; to the north-west
of it is an excellent anchorage in from 11 to 12 fathoms.

Village passage leads into the harbour westward of Stopper islands ;
it is upwards of one mile long, and 3 cables wide in its narrowest part,
clear in mid-channel, with from 15 to 21 fathoms ; some rocks awash at
high water lie on its east side, extending 2^ cables N.N.W. from the
north end of Larkins island. '" '- • ' ; r .fi .'.,..:

Fipestem inlet, a long narrow inlet extending upwards of 5 miles
nearly straight in a north-easterly direction from the north-east par't of
Toquart harbour, has depths of 19 to 37 fathoms, but affords no anchorage
whatever ; its shores are rocky, and rise abruptly to 1,000 and 2,000 feet
above the sea ; at its head is a small patch of swampy rround, some fresh-
water streams flowing through it. -- i ;;; J.-. >:'-.- ^^ -• ...?.!

Rock. — A rock awash at low- water spring tides, with 10 to 14 fathoms
clooe to it, lies in the approach to Toquart harbour ; it is situated between
Table island and Gowlland islet . v •

oHAP. VII.] BARCLAY SOUND ; TOQUART UARBOUR.

291

Directions. — Entering Toqiiart harbour hy David channel, after
paHHing Lyall point, steer well into Mayne bay to avoid Richard rock ;
when Hermit islet comoH open of the Stopper islaiulH beariug N.W. ^ W.
a vessel will bo clear east'-vard of it, and may steer for the harbour, jjassing
midway between the Sisters and Stopper islands, and eastward of Hermit
islet ; anchor in 14 fathoms, with Image island bearing N.E, by N., »nd
Hermit islet S.E., or proceed farther north, keeping one eal)le off the
west side of Image island, and anchor north-west of it in 11 or 12 fathoms.
Entering by Village passage, keep in mid-channel, or well over to the west
shore, to avoid the rocks oft' the Stopper islands.

AnchorEge. — The anchorage is of considerable extent, in from 12
to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom.

The west coast of Barclay sound from Toquart harbour to Ucluelet arm
trends nearly straight tc> S.S.W,, and rises gradually to high land 2,000
feet above the sea.

Forbes island. — J'or 2^, miles from the Stof -ser islands a chain of
small islands lie parallel to the coast at a distance of about three-quarters
of a mile off, with from 5 to 11 fathoms between them and the shore.
Forbes island, the southernmost of them, is moderately high, steep-
to on its south side ; nearly one mile south-west from it, and extending
from the opposite siiore, are a number of rocks alx)ve high water.

SHIP CHANNfiL, between the Vancouver shore and the Great
bank southward of Forbes island, leads into the Ucluelet arm, and is clear
of danger. It is 4 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., two-thirds of a mile
broad in its narrowest part, the depth varying from 26 to 38 fathoms.

Double island, at its south-east point, is of small extent, steep-to on
the west side, but from the south and east sides foul ground extends
upwards of half a mile.

Kelp islet, 6 cables north-west of Double island, on the opposite side
of the channel, is low and bare ; kelp extends 2 cables south of it, and
there are 38 fathoms midway between it and Double island.

XJGLY CHANNEL, to the eastward of bhelter islands, connects
Ship channel with the ocean. It is bounded on both sides by rocks and
reefs, and though probably deep, it has not been sufiiciently examined to
recommend its being used by a stranger ; the depths in the north pai't
vary from 28 to 36 fathoms.

Starlight reefs, at its south-ea&t part, are a cluster of rocks about
7 cables in extent, some above high water : in batl weather the sea breaks
heavily over them.

Look-out island, on the west side of Ugly channel, is well wooded,
of small extent, and nbout I.jO feet bijfli ; at .'{ cables south of it is

T 2

292

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[oHAP. vn.

Humphries reef, a patch of rocks 2 cables in extent, and 6 cables north of it
lies a bare rock 6 feet above high water.

UCLUELET ARM, just within the south-west entrance point of
Barclay sound, is a narrow inlet extending 5^ miles in a N.W. by W.
direction, parallel to the outer coast, and separated from it only by a narrow
peninsula. Its south shore is low, and indented by several small creeks
and bays ; the northern shore is nearly straight, and, at a short distance
inland, rises gradually to a flat-top range of considerable height, the south-
east shoulder of which, mount Ozzard, 2,270 feet high, is conspicuous from
the south-east.

The depths in this arm vary from 4 to 8 fathoms, and there is secure
and well-sheltered anchorage from oua mile inside the entrance to the head.

Shelter islands, upwards of half a mile south-east of the entrance
of the Ucluelet arm, arc an irregular cluster of small islets and rocks
about one mile long in a noith- westerly direction, and 3 cables wide, which
completely shelter the arm from the sea ; at one cable'd distance from their
north and west sides are from 7 to 15 fathoms.

Centre reef, 3 cables westward of their northern part, is of small
extent, and about .3 feet above high water.

Alpha, passage, between Centre reef and Shelter islands, is 2 cables
wide in its narrowest part, with depths of from 11 to 14 fathoms. There is,
however, said to be a sunken rock* in this passage, and it should therefore
not be used by steamers or coasting vessels bound to the Ucluelet arm,
except from necessity.

Carolina channel, west of Centre reef, between it and Amphitrite
point, the south-west point of entrance to Barclay sound, is the western-
most passage into the latter and the Ucluelet arm. It is nearly straight, onf^
mile long in an E.N.E. direction, and one-quarter of a mile wide in its
narrowest part, with depths of from 11 to 15 fathoms. This channel
appears to be ihe best for a stranger to use if entering the Ucluelet arm
from seaward, but in heavy weather, when there is a long swell from s(!a-
ward rolling in, the entrance often appears to be an unbroken line of surf.

Round, island, at the north part of this channel, is the faouth
entrance point to the Ucluelet arm ; it lies nearly one mile E.N.E. from
Amphitrite point, is high, and is connected by a sandy beach at low water
to the mainland ; the east side is steep-to, and may be approached to within
one cab!.e ; at 4 cables east from it, on the opposite side of the entrance,
rocks awash at high water extend one cable off the north shore.

Leading point, on the south side of Ucluelet arm, 6 cables
within the entrance, is bold, steep-to, and may be approached to within
a distance of oO yards ; between it and Round island is a narrow creek, with

♦ Novigafing Licuteniint, E. S. Clftpp, H.M.S. Scout, 1878.

CHAl'. VII.]

BARCLAY S0U2<D; UCLUilLET AKM.

293

2 fathoms water, but the entrance is blocked iijiby kelp,
the breadth of the inlet contracts to oue cable.

At Leading point

Stewart bay, on the north side, half a mile within the entrance, is
2 cables deep, and half a mile wide. In its centre is a rock awash at high
water, and the bay is too shallow to afford anchorage except to a coaster ;
there is a native village of cousideralle size in its west part, off which some
small rocks extend about half a cable.

Channel islet, in the middle of the arm about 2 miles within the
entrance, and one mile past Leading point, is small; between it and the
latter is good anchorage in from 6 to 9 fathoms. There is a clear passage
north of the islet with 7 fathoms water, but only 2 fathoms on its south side ;
at 2 cables N.W. by W. from the islet lies a small rock above high water,
steep-to on all sides, except the south-east, from which a shoal with
2| fathoms water extends for one cable.

Anchorage. — To the westward of Channel islet the arm becomes wider,
affording good anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms, over a space one mile long and
half a mile wide.

Staples island, half a mile from the head on the south side of the
arm, and connected to the latter at low water, is about one mile in circum-
ference, and low ; there is no anchorage, except for small craft, to the
westward of it.

A sandy beach borders the north shore of Ucluelet arm from its head to
Stewart bay.

Directions. — Several channels leatl into Ucluelet arm, with apparently
deep water through them, but there are so many rocks and (iangers in their
vicinity that great vigilance is recommended, and it would hardly be advis-
able to enter without a pilot; should it, however, be necessary to do so, a
vessel should staer for Aaiphitrite point, the south-west extreme of Barclay
sound, and when about 2 cables from it, proceed to the eastward through
the Carolina channel, keeping about 2 cables off its west s^horo to iivoid
Centre reef. Pass Hound island at the distance of one cable, and rounding
it sharply steer about W.N.W up the arm, keeping v, Al over to the south
shore ; pass Leading point within iialf a cable t*:' avoid the rocks abreast
of it on the north side, and anchor midway between it and Channel islet, in
6 to 9 fathoms ; or proceed farther to the westwarcj, where a more extended
anchorage will be found, taking care to pass north of Channel islet.

Channel islet kept open between the sides of the inlet bearing N.W. by
W. I W. leads into Ucluelet arm from the eastward off the entrance of the
Western channel, to the northward of the Shelter islands, and between the
Great Bear and Sykes reef to the eastward and Black rocks. Starlight, and
Haddington reefs to the westwaid ; but as this channel has not been closely
examined, it should be used with great caulion.

294

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[CIIAl'. VU.

Entering the arm from the northward through Ship channel, keep about
half a mile off the weat shore, and passing about 2 cables north of Shelter
islands, steer up the arm as before directed.

The COAST* from Amphitrite point takes a W. by N. direction for
17 miles to point Cox; it is low and indented by two large sandy bays,
which afford no shelter ; at a distance of 4 miles from it are depths of from
20 to 27 fathoms.

Wreck bay, 4 miles westv/ard of Amphitrite point, is nearly 3 miles
wide, and one mile deep, with a small' islet in the centre ; there are several
rocks in the bay, and it is totally unfit for anchorage.f

Long bay, 8 miles westward of Amphitrite point, is 7 railed wide
and upwards of one mile deep, with from 8 to 1 1 fathoms betwecm tfie
entrance points; there are several rocks in it, and no vessel should anchor
here ; at its south-east point, just within the reefs, good shelter for boats
will be found in all weather. '

Sch.00n.0r cove, i" the north-west part of the bay, is of small extent,
with 2 fathoms water inside ; it would afford good shelter to a coaster or
small vessel.

Portland point, the north-west extreme of Long bay, is high and
abrupt, with some small rocks and islets around if, at a distance of half a
mile.

GowUand rocks, H miles W.S.W. from Portland point, are of
small extent, bare, and fi-om 10 to 15 feet above high water; they should
not be approached nearer than one mile.

Caution. — When navigating between Barclay and Clayoquot sounds do
not approach the shore within 2 miles, nor stand within one mile of the
entrance to Wreck and Lcnp bays.

CLAYOQUOT SOUND comprises a number of inlets, islands,
and rocks, covering an area 30 miles long in a 'svesterly direction, and
16 broad. The entrance to it is fringed by numerous dangerous rocks,
which require due caution to avoid ; it lies between Cox and Sharp points,
bearing from each other W. by N. | N. 21 miles, and is distant 20 inihjs
W. by N. from Barclay sound, and 66 miles W.N.VV. from the light-
house on Tatoosb island,,

There are several channels into the inner waters of this sound, but
with the exception of Ship channel thoy f,;hould not bo attempted by a
stranger.

* See Admiralty chart : Sydney inlet to Natinat, No. 684 ; scale, m = *i'5 oH intjh.
t A Peruvian vessel, the Florcntia, was wrocked here in December i860.

cuAi'. va.] CLAYOQUOT SOUi^P ; TEMPLAll CHANNEL.

295

The soundings at a distance of ono mile outside the outer rocks vary
from 20 to 30 fathoms, but in the channels and inside the bottom is
irregular.

Tides. — It is high water> full and change, in Clayoquot sound at 12
hours, the rise and fall being about 12 feet.

Point Cox, at the south-east extreme of Clayoquot sound, is rocky
and may be approached to within a distance of half a mile ; Vargas cone,
a remarkable summit, 432 feet high, rises just within the point, and is very
conspicuous from the westward, ' c-

Templar Chaunel, the eastern entrance to the sound between
Low peninsula on the east, and Lennard, Wakennenish, and Stubbs
islands on the west, is a winding passage about 4 miles long in a
N.N.W. direction, with an average breadth of half a mile. The soundings
vary from 8 to 10 fathoms in its entrance, to 3| fathoms in its shoalest
part near the north end, and a shoal bank lies in the middle abreast
Wakennenish island; in heavy weather the sea breaks right across the
channel. No vessel drawing more than 12 feet water should attempt
to enter the sound by this channel, and not even then without a pilot,
as it is very intricate, and no directions can be given ; coasters, however,
generally use it.

False bay, .j "St northward of Cox point at the .iouth-east extreme
of the channel, is about half a mile in extent, with from 3 to 4 fathoms
water, but open to the south-west, and unfit for nchorage ; its shores are
low and sandy. '~

Lennard island, H oii^es W. by N. from (Jox point, is of small
extent and wooded, steep-to on the east side, but west of it are some
rocks and small islets.

Wakennenish. island, on the west side of the channd, one mile
from Lennard island, is about 200 feet high, 1^ miles long, and half a
mile wide ; at its south point is E cha chets, a large Indian village,
generally occupied by the natives during the summer season when fishing.

Round island, at th'^ north part of the channel, 4 miles N.W. from
Cox point, is small, but with a clear but narrow passage on either side of
it; a bank, dry u low watei', extends 7 cables northward from it.

Stubbs island, 2 cables west from Round island, is about one mile
in circumference, and has a sand-bank which dries at low water, extending
one mile north from it. , ... ^,

BROKEN CHANNEL, between Wakennenish and Vargas
islandn, t ) the westward of the former, is upwards of 2 miles long in u
northerly direction, mid liiilt' ii mile wide iu its narrowest part, wifii

296

VANCOUVEll island; WEST COAST.

[CHAr. VII.

from 6 to 15 fathom? water ; several rocks lie off it? entrance, and on both
sides ; the tide runs through from 2 to o knots, and no vessel should
use it without a pilot.

McKay reef, lyi"g off the entrance, 4 miles W. by N. from Cox
point, is of small extent, 5 to 10 feet above high watei", and the sea
generally breaks heavily over it.

Passage rock, which covers at high water, lies two-thirds of a wile
north of McKay reef.

VARGAS ISLAND, on the west side of Broken channel, is
4| miles long, and 4^ miles wide at its broadest part, and its surface is low
and undulating; on the eastern side near the middle is Kelsemart, a native
village.

The Rugged group, «t half a mile from the south shore, running
parallel to it, is a chain of small islets and rocks.

Open, bay, on the west side of Vargas, is about one mile in extent
with from 6 to T fathoms water, and apparently a clear passage into it from
the north-west, which has not, however, been examined.

Blunden and Bare islands, to the westward of Open bay, are of
small size ; numerous reefs are scattered about this locality.

SHIP CHANNEL, to the westward of Vargas island, between
it and a number of small islands and rocks, is the only passage into
Clayoquot sound which should be attempted by a stranger. Its entrance
lies nearly 11 miles westward of Cox point, and the channel is o miles long
in a N.N.E. direction, with a breadth varying from three-quarters to 1^
miles. The depths in the south part, vary from 20 to 22 fathoms,
decreasing to 5^ fathoms in the shoalest part near the north end ; the tide
sets through it at from one to 2 knots.

Bare island, at the south-east entrance point of the channel, is small,
rising to a summit 40 feet high in the centre, and foiiiis n good mark for
identifying Ship channel ; a rock on which the sea breaks lies 5 cables
E. by S. from it, but there are 20 fathoms within half a mile of its south-
west side.

Plover reefs, on the ep^t sidt of the channel half a mile north-west
from Bare island, are of c jnsiderable extent, stretching one mile from the
west side of Blunden island ; some parts are 6 feet above high water, and
there are 5 fathoms at 2 cables west of them.

HobbS and Burgess islets lie at the north-east part of the
channel, 2 cables from the west side of Vargas island, and nearly connected
with it at low water ; they are small, and may be approached to within a
distance of 2 cables, whe^-e are depths of from 7 to 8 fathoms.

(JIlAl". VII.]

CLAYOQUOT SOUND ; SUIP CHANNEL.

297

Sea Otter rock lies at the south-west entrance point of Ship
channel, 2 miles VV. by N. from Bare islet ; it is very small, only 6 f'eot
above high water, and tLce are 5 fathoms close-to, ofT its east side.

Shark reefs, some ol* which cover, others G and 10 fe(!t above high
water, lie on the west side, 2 miles N.E. ^ N. from Sea Otter rock ; they
are about 3 cables in extent, and should not be approached nearer than
2 cables on their south and east sides ; between them and Sea Otter rock
there are from 14 to 24 fathoms.

Lawrence islands, on the west side, 2| miles from Sea Otter
lock, are small, low, and wooded, but steep-to on the east side.

Bartlett island, half a mile to the westward of the Lawrence islands,
is low and wooded ; its shores are much broken, and a number of rocks
extend from one-quarter to half a mile on all sides of it, and the island
should not be approached within the latter distance.

Twins islets, at the north-west point of Ship channel, 4 miles
from Sea Otter rock, are low, but wooded, and connected at low water;
kelp extends one cable south of them.

HECATE PASSAGE, to the north-east of and connecting Ship
channel with the inner waters of Clayoquot sound, is 3 miles long in an
E.N.E. dii-ection between Vargas island and the inuin shore of Van-
couver, and upwards of one mile wide ; there are several rocks on both its
shores, and a sand-bank in its centre, but to the southward of the bank
along the north shore of Vargas is a clear passage with not less than
5^ fathoms.

Half-tide rock, oft* the south-west point of Hecate passage and
2 cables from Vargas island, is of small extent, covers at half flood, and
may be approached to one cable on the outside. Hobbs islet open west of
Burgess islet bearing S. by W. \ VV. leads 2 cables west of it ; and the
Twins in line with the north-west WKalcr island bearing W. by S. leads
2 cables north of it, and south of North bank.

North bank, lying in the centre of the passage, is of considerable
extent, composed of sand, and has 5 teet water on its shoalest part ; there
are 4 to 5 fathoms north of it, but the passage south is the best ; the Twins
in line with the north Whaler island bearing W. by S. leads 2 cables
south of it, in the deepest water.

White islet, to the north-west of the North bank and one mile from
the south-west point of Hecate passage, is small, bare, and conspicuous
from the entrance of Ship channel ; there are several rocks between it aiul
the north shore.

■!

298

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[OIIAI-. VII.

The Cat-face mOUntaillS, rising on tho main shore of
Vancouver island, and fronting Ship channel, are a reraarkablo flat-
lop range nearly 3,000 feet high, with some patches of cliiF and white
bare rock in about the middle of their south side. They are very
conspicuous from seaward.

Deep pass, between two islands at the north-east part of Hecate
passage, is about 3 cables long and 1^ cables wide, with 9 fathoms water,
and is the best channel leading from Hecate passage into the inner waters.
The tide sets at the rate of from 2 to 3 knots through it.

HECATE BAY, 2 miles north from Deep pass, on the west shore, is
6 cables wide and 3 cables deep, with from 9 to 10 fathoms ; it is clear of
danger, and one of the best anchorages within the sound, being easy of
access and well sheltered. There is a stream of fresh water in the middle
of the bay, very convenient for watering.

Observatory islet, at its north point, is 35 feet high, and bare. Two
cables north-east of it is a small rock, 2 feet above high water. , , ,

CYPRESS BAY, on the main shore of Vancouver, 4 miles north from
Deep pass, is nearly 2 miles in extent, with from 12 to 26 fathoms over it.
On the east and west sides the shores are low, but are high on the north.
There is a large stream, with some swampy land, on its west side ; on
the cast is Calm creek with a narrow entrance, to the southward of which
are some off-lying rocks and small islands. . ;.

Mussel rock lies 4 cables ofE the east shore of the bay and half a
mile N.N.W. f W. from the east extreme. It is of small extent, and covers
at three-quarters flood ; half a cable north-west from it is a depth of
11 fathoms.

Calm creek, in the north-east part of Cypress bay, is 6 cables long
in the same direction, with from 4 to 6 fathoms, but the entrance to it
being narrow, with only 2 fathoms water, it is useless for anchorage,
except to small craft.

Anchorage' — There is good anchorage in Cypress bay in 12 fathoms
near its north part, at half a mile from the shore ; and though it is open to
the southward, no sea rises.

MEABES ISLAND, within the eastern part of Clayoquot sound,
adjacent to and north-east of Vargas island, is 6 miles in extent in a
northerly and " miles in an easterly direction. Its shores, except on the
north side, are high and rugged, and there are several summits on tho east
and west sides upwards of 2,000 feet above the sea ; one on the latter
side, named Lone cone, an isolated conical mountain, Iz 2,32'i feet high,
and very conspicuous from seaward near the entrance of S'.up channel.

cii-vr. VII.] r^AYOQUOT SOUND ; HECATE AND lllTCHIE BAYH.

290

An extensive inlot (Disappointment inlet) runs nearly through the islan<l
from the south side to north, and there are several other bights and bays.

DeCOption Clia/Illiel, a continuation of Broken channel to the
northward, between Mearesand Vargas islands, is about 3 miles long north
and south, and half a mile wide, with irregular depths of from .5 to
20 fathoms. There are several rocks in its north-west part ; and a largo
sand-bank, which partly dries at low water, extends from Vargas island
along its west side for nearly two miles, reducing the deep part of the
passage to about 3 cables. The tide sets at from 2 to 5 knots through this
channel, and a stranger should not attempt its navigation.

RITCHIE BAY, on the north-west side of Meares island, 2 miles
eastward of Deep pass, is one mile wide, half a mile deep, and affoi'ds
anchorage in 5^ to 10 fathoms at 2 cables off its eastern shore. The
shores of the bay are rocky, but have no outlying dangers ; Ivobert point,
its south-west extreme, slopes gradually to the sea, and may be approached
to within a distance of one cable.

Yellow barllk, which lies almost athv/art the entrance of Ritchie bay,
is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and has 3 feet on the shoalest
puifc; there is deep water around it, and the channel between it and
Robert point is 2 cables wide, with from 6 to 10 fathoms. •

SaranaC island, near the north part of Ritchie bay, is about half
a mile long in a northerly direction, and narrow ; it is about 200 feet high,
and wooded, steep-tr on the east side ; some small islets extv>nd 3 cables
off' its west side, and there is a narrow but deep passage betwoon it and
Yellow bank ; between the island and the north point of Ritchie bay are
30 fathoms in mid-channel.

Directions. — if wishing to anchor in Ritchie bay, and coming from
Deep pass, proceed to the eastward so as to pass about one cable north of
Robert point, and keeping the same distance off" the south shore, steer into
the bay, anchoring in 5 or 7 fathoms about 2 cables from its east side,
with tht extremes bearing North and S.W. f W. ; entering from the
northward, steer midway between Saranac island and the north point of
the bay.

The north shore of Meares island is low, nearly straight, and stetp-to;
it takes an E. by N. direction for nearly 4 miles, and then turns sharply to
the south-east. •;• ' • u

BEDWELL SOUND, the entrance to which is 1^ miles East from
Cypress bay and northward of Meares island, is 7 miles long in a northerly
direction, and one mile broad till within 2 miles of its head, Avheu it con-
tracts to 3 cables ; the shores arc high and rugged, risinf' on the east side

300

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[UIIAI-. VU.

to sharp jagged peaks from 2,000 to 4,400 feet above the sea. At its
head is a small patch of low swampy land, and a valley from which
tlio Bear river, a stream of considerable size, flows into the sound. The
depths in the sound vary from 35 to 45 fathoms, and there is no anchorage
whatever within it. • '

Race narrows, east of Bedwell sound, between the north side of
Meares island and the main, are 1^ miles long, and about 2 cables wide
in the narrowest part ; the tides set through them at the rate of from
3 to 4 knots, the flood from the 'vestward, and there are 10 fathoms in the
shoalest part of mid-channel.

Ripple islets, off the east entrance to Race narrows, are about
20 feet high, small and covered with bushes ; there are some strong tide
rips around them, but they may be approached to within about one cable's
distance.

T^arn bay, to the eastward of Race narrows and one mile from
the ncth-east part of Meares island, is upwards of 2 miles long in a
northerly direction, and about three-quarters of a mile wide; the shores
on both siaes are high, but low at the head, from whence issue several
streams, and a sand-bank dries out upwards of one cable. The depths in
the bay are irregular, varying from 50 to 8 fathoms, but a vessel may
anchor about 3 cables off shore near the west side of the head of the bay in
14 to 16 fathoms.

FORTUNE CHANNEL, between the east side of Meares island
and the main, is 5 miles long, north and south, and varies in breadth from
3 cables to IJ miles ; its shores are high, and there are several off-lying
rocks on its west side near the middle ; the depths in it vary from 30 to 75
fathoms.

The east shore of the channel from Warn bay to Deception pass is
rocky, and indented by several small bays which afford no anchorage.

MOSQUITO HARBOUR, on the east side of Meares island, is
narrow, and about 2 miles long in a north-westerly direction ; there are
several rocks and small islets off its entrance, but it affords good anchorage
inside in from 4 to 7 fathoms ; the entrance is 1^ cables wide, with
11 fathoms, and the harbour is easily entered by a steamer.

Plover point, at the south-east side of the entrance to Mosquito
harbour, is rocky, with some small islets a short distance off it, and there
are 20 fathoms one cable to the southward of it. ^

Hankin rock lies 2^ cables south-west of Plover point, and in the
track of vessels entering Mosquito harbour ; it is marked by kelp, and ther^
are 23 fathoms midway between it and the point.

ouAP. VII.] CLAYOQUOT SOUND ; FORTUNE CHANNEL, &C. 301

Wood islands, iQ the middle of the entrance, nearly half a mile
west of Plover point, are small and extend in a northerly direction for
half a mile ; some rocks lie u short distance off their south part, but there
is a clear passage into the harbour on both sides of them, with 7 fathoms
water.

Blackberry islOtS, in the centre of the harbour and three-quarters
of a mile from the entrance, are small, but steep-to, there being 4 fathoms
within one cable of them.

DirOCtionS. — AVhen entering Mosquito harbour, round IMover point
atone cable's distance to avoid the Hankin rock, and keep midway between
Wooil islands and the oast shore, anchoring in about 7 fathoms, one-
third of a mile south of the Blackberry islets ; a vessel may enter
westward of the Wood islands by keeping midway between them and the
shore.

AncllOragO. — The best anchorage is a short distance to the south-
ward of the Blackberry islets, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, northward of them
are from 3 to 4 fathoms.

Dark island, 7 cables south of Plover point, on the west side of
Fortune channel, is small ; some rocks extend a short distance oft' its west
side, but tliere is a clear passage between it and the west shore.

DOUblO island, 5 cables south of Dark island, is small, and steep-
tf) ; there are 24 fathoms in the passage between it and Meares island.

DECEPTION PASS, at the south extreme of For tune channel and
connecting it with Tofino inlet and Browning passage, is a winding
channel to the S.S.E., about 1 ^ miles long and 2 cables wide ; it is free
from danger in mid-channel, the depths vary from 10 to 20 fathoms, and
the tide sets with considerable strength through it. On its west side is a
narrow creek half a mile long with from 8 to 9 fathoms, and in the middle
of the pass is a small islet.

TOPINO INLET, in the eastern part of Clayoquot sound, is about
10 miles long in a northerly direction, and varies in breadth from one-half
to 1^ miles ; its shores are high and rocky, indented on the west side
by some large creeks ; there are several islands in the inlet and along both
shores, but none of any considerable size. The depths vary from 22 to 68
fathoms, and there is no anchorage, except near the entrance on the west
side.

Indian island, on the south side of entrance, half a mile soutli-
east from Deception pass, is about one mile in extent, and steop-to on the
north side; a bank extends 2 cables from its west point, with 3^ fathoms
close to the edge.

302

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[CIIAl'. VII,

Warn islEUd, nearly ono mile north from Indian island, on tho wost
side of the inlet ju8t within the ontranco, ia upwards of half a mile in
extent, and steep-to on all sides.

Islund cove, half » mile west of Warn island, is of small extent,
with from 8 to 10 fathoms in the middle, and completely landlocked ; a
small island lies off the entrance, with a clear passage ono cable wide on
either side of it into the cove,

Gunil9r harbour, on the west side of the inlet, just north of Warn
island, is 1^ miloa long in a N.N.W. direction, but narrow ; a small i.slet
lies in its centre, about h,\lf a mile north of the entrance, and between
them a vessel may find good anchorage in about 10 fathoms ; the harbour
becomes shoal towards the head.

Tranquil creek, on the west side of the inlet 4^ miles north from
Warn island, is narrow, and upwards of one mile long ; its shores are High
and rocky, and the creek is too deep for anchorage.

Between Ti-anquil creek and Warn island, along the west shore, are
several small rocky islets, extending from 2 to 3 cables off.

Plat-top islets, 5 miles from the entrance of the inlet and
2^ cables from its west shore, are steep-to on the east side, there beirj
47 fathoms at one cable's distance from them. Northward of these islets
Tofino inlet takes a winding direction to the northward, narrowing gradually
towards the head, and terminating in Deer creek, one mile long and ti
quarter of a mile broad, but it is too deep for anchorage, there being from
22 to 29 fathoms inside it.

On the east side of Tofino inlet, 4 miles from the entrance, is a stream
of considerable size, said to communicate with an extensive lake.

Browning passage, on the south side of Meares island, con-
necting Tofino inlet with Templar channel, is 5 miles long in a westerly
direction, and less than half a raiie broad. Its cixst end is only 1^ cables
wide, and o£F the west entrance there are several rocks, and no stranger,
except with a small vessel, should attempt it. The depths in it vary from
4 to 1 2 fathoms, and the tide sets through at a rate of 2 to 4 knots, the
flood stream from the westward. << .

NORTH CHANNEL, to the westward of Ship channel, and
separated from it by a number of small islands and rocks, lies along the
south-east side of Flores island in a north-easterly direction. It is 4 miles
long, half a mile wide in the narrowest part, and the depths in it vary from
7 to 17 fathoms ; both sides of the channel are bordered by innumerable
rocks, and a stranger is not recommended to use it, as it has not been
closely examined ; the sea generally breaks heavily along both sides of its
outer part.

CHAP, ni.] CLAYOQITOT S0;L^ND ; SYDNEY INLET, &C. 303

FLORES ISLAND, in the western part of Clayoquot sound,
between North channel and Sydney inlet, is nearly 7 miles in extent, and
of a square HJiape ; it is low on the south and cast sides, but high on the
north and west, rising in some places to 3,000 feet ; the shores are rugged
and broken, and there are several off-lying rocks along its south and west
sides ; as a rule its outer part should not be approached nearer than
2 miles.

Rafael point, the south extreme of Flores, is cliffy and of moderate
height ; some rocks extend 2 cables from it, and the point should not bo
rounded within half a mile. From thence the west coast of the island turns
suddenly to the N.N.W., and continues in that direction for 7 miles, being
indented by several small bays ; some rocks and small islets extend 2 or 3
cables off in many parts.

SYDNEY INLET, at the west end of Clayoquot sound, is 10 miles
long in a N.N.W. direction, and varies in breadth from a half to one
mile. Its entrance is 3^ miles N.W. by N. from Rafael puint, between
the west side of Flores island and the main land of Vancouver ; at 4 miles
from the head are two small branches about 2 miles in length, one
ex'.ending north the other south-west ; the shores are high and rugged,
rising abruptly from the sea to 2,000 and 3,000 feet. The depth in the
entrance is 15 fathoms, increasing gradually towards the head, and there
is no anchorage.

Sharp point, the south-west point of entrance to Sydney inlet and
south-west extreme of Clayoquot sound, is low and rocky, but may be
approached to one cable's distance. '

REFUGE COVE,* just west of Sharp point, and separated from
Sydney inlet by a narrow peninsula, extends IJ^ miles in a N.N.W. direc-
tion, is from one to 2 cables wide, and affords good anchorage in 4 to 5
fathoms at half a mile within the entrance, well sheltered and secure from
all winds, though apparently open to the S.S.E.

Sunken rock. — The entrance is narrow, and at 2 cables inside
Sharp point and about one cable from the eastern shore is a rock having
only 9 feet on it at low water. This rock lies slightly eastward of the
fairway, but a good look out is necessary, as it is not idways marked by
kelp. . ,■ • ■;,- ■ .,,.>-,/ i ' - •! •■'■•; ^: ■ , . \ -^

Canoe reef, lying just south-west from the entrance and three-
quarters of a mile S.W. by W. from Sharp point, is 2 feet above high water,
but steep-to on the south and west sides.

* See plttu of R«fuge cove ou Admiralty chart, No. 584 ; scale, m »> 3*0 iaches.

304

VANCouvLR island; west coast.

[CIIAI-. Vl».

Directions. — Entering Refuge cove from seaward, bring the entrance
or Sharj) point to bear N.N.W. ^ W., ami steer for it, so as to pass one
cable west of the point ; then keep in inid-ehannel, or rather nearer the
western shore, to avoid the 9 feet rock, having passed which keep close to
the eastern shore and anchor in 4^ or 5 fathoms, ubout 7 or H cables
within the entrance.

A nailing vessel, if embayed near this part of the coast, would find safety
and shelter in Refuge cove.

SHELTER ARM branches ott" from the east side oi" Sydni^ inlet
to the north-east, along the north sideofFlores island for 5 miles, and
then indents the mainland in a N.E. by N. direction for nearly the mme
distance, terminating in a narrow creek at the head. It is upwards of
half a mile wide, 10 miles long, and tho depths vary from 40 to 90 fathoms
in the south part.

The shores of Shelter arm are high, precipitous, and steep-to ; tho
tide runs from one to 2 knots through it, the flood stream from the west-
ward.

Steamer cove ■» the only anchorage (indifferent) in it, just 2 miles
within the entrance on the north side oi Flores island ; it is a small bight
where a vessel may anchor in 17 to 19 futlioms, passing on either side
of the islet at its entrance.

Obstruction island, on the east s-ide of Shelter arm, and .separated
from the north point of Flores island by a narrow pass, is about 2 miles
in extent and 700 fett high. Its sliores are rocky and l)roken, and the
passages along its south and east sides are blocked up with rocks.
Rocky pass, on its south side, is narrow, about 1^ miles long, in an cast
and west direction, but tilled witli I'ocks, so that no vessel could get
through it; the tide runs irregularly through, but seldom exceeds 4 knots.

North, arm, between the east side of Flores ishind and the main, is
about 8 miles long in a S.E. by S. direction, and nearly one mile broad.
Its western shores are high, but decrease gradually to the southward ; the
depths are very great in the north part, but they shoal rapidly to the
southward, where a vessel may anchor in from 5 to 8 fathoms abreast Base
point.

Matilda creek, on the west side of North arm, abreast the entrance
to Herbert arm, is 1^ miles long in a S.S.E. direction, very narrow, with
from 10 to 25 fathoms, but useless as an anchorage. , ^^

Base point, the south-west entrance point fx) North arm, is low and
sandy, and there are from 2 to 3 fathoms at one cable's distance from it.
A vessel mhy anchor in from 5 to 8 fathoms midway between this {)oint
and the east shore.

Oiur. TU.]

CLAYOQUOT BOUND; DUIECTIONS.

305

Herbert Enu, the entrance to which is on the east side of North
arm, about 2 luilea from the south ontranco of the latter, is miles long,
in u northerly direction, and its avera^^'i brondth is' about one mile. The
shores are high, mountainous, and much broken ; and there is no anchorage
except at the south part of its entrance.

Cone islaild, lying (^t the entrance o' this arm, is about one mile in
extent, 1,090 feet high, and steep-to on the Houth and west sides, but the
passage into Herbert arm north of it is blr>cked up by rocks and small
inlets ; that south of it ih nearly one mile wide, with depths of 26 to 50
fathoms in it.

Bawden bay, on the south side of entrance to Herbert arm, and
about 1^ miles south-east of Cone island, is of small extent, and affords
anchorage in 15 fathoms, near the centre; enter it in mid-channel.

White Fine cove, on the east side of Herbert arm, nearly 3 miles
from the entrance, is small, with a bank extending from the head ; a small
vessel may anchor close to the edge of this bank in about 10 fathoms ;
care, however, should bo taken to avoid a shoal of 3 fathoms lying almost la
mid-channel, at about 7 cables from the head of the cove.

Directions. — Entering Clayoquot sound by Ship channel (which
latter will easily be recognized by Bare island, Sea Otter rock, and a
remarkable summit inland, the Lone cone*), round either Bare island or
Sea Otter rock at the distance of half a mile, and steer up the channel
with the south point of Lawrence island and the Twins islets in line
with the north summit of the Cat-face mountains bearing N.N.E. ^ E.*
Keep the above-mentioned mark on till within half a mile of the Shark
reefs, when haul more to the eastward for the west extreme of Vargas
island, which may be rounded at a distance of 3 cables. If going on
through Hecate passage (page 297) into Hecate bay, to clear Half-tide
rock keep Hobbs islet open west of Burgess islet bearing S. by W. \ W.
until the Twins come in line with the west Whaler island bearing
W. by S., when steer up the passage with that mark on astern, which
will lead north of Half-tide rock and south of the North bank. When
past the latter, steer through Deep pass, and anchor in Hecate bay
midway between its entrance points in 9 or 10 fathoms.

During heavy south-westerly gales the sea is said to break right across
Ship channel, between Lawrence and Hobbs islands.

Although there are several apparently deep channels into Clayoquot
sound, they are, with the exception of Ship channel, so tortuous, and
filled with rocks, that no stranger should attempt to enter by any
except the latter, > nd not by it unless having the latest Admiralty

♦ See View D. on Admiralty chart, No. 584.

17498.

306 VANCOUVEE ISLAND ; WEST COAST. [oh^p. v«.

chart of the sound. If the weather be clear, it ^U be ^sy to ve^^e
Ship channel, but if in doubt, there will be Uttle difficulty found xn
procuring a native off the entrance of 8ufficient xntelhgence to pilot n

"llnding to navigate the inner waters of the sound which cau cnly
be done by a steamer or small craft, the chart will be found the best
guide.

TWfffWBJpil'pilRff'^

307

CHAPTER VIII

WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND, FROM CLATOQUOT SOUND

TO CAPE SCOTT.

Variation, 23" 45' E. in 1888.

EESQUIAT HARBOUR,* 8 miles westward of the west part
of Clayoquot sound, is formed at the bottom of the bay on th« east side of
Estevan point. It is 4 miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and upwards of
2 miles wide at the entrance, opening out a little inside, but on nearing the
head it contracts to less than one mile. The depths within the harbour vary
from 4 to 8 fathoms, and there is a good and secure anchorage in 7 or
8 fathoms at half a mile from the head.

The bar. — Across the entrance, between Hesquiat bluff and Estevan
point, is a bar or ledge, about 3 cables wide, with from 3 to 5 fathoms water
over it, which in a great measure prevents the sea from setting home into
the harbour. Kelp grows more or less all over the anchorage in a depth
of 5 fathoms.

TTnaqnlfl.t. bluflf, the east entrance point of the harbour, is a remark-
able, low, wooded point, with a shingle beach around it ; a reef, which
covers at a quarter flood, lies half a mile south-west from it.

Boat basin >s a small cove with 4 fathoms at the head of Hesquiat
hai1)our on the east side ; there is a large fresh-wat^r stream there, and
vessels may obtain wood and water with great facility.

The shores of the harbour are mostly low and wooded, and within
the entrance, at a distance of 2 cables, clear of danger. On the west side of
the bay near Estevan point are several indications of coal, and the land is
apparently fertile.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Hesquiat harbour at
12h. Om. ; springs rise 12 foct.

Direotions. — Hesquiat harbour is easy of access to sailing vessels,
even with a foul wind. The notch of Leading mountain in Une wit!" tlie
east entrance point, bearing N.N.W., leads over the bar in 4^ fathoms at
low water. Entering either from the oast, or west, give the outer shores

* See Admiralty chart, Esperanza to Clayoquot sound, No. 569 ; scale, m = 0-5 of nn
inch. Also plan of Hesquiat harbour on same chart ; scale, m^ 1-5 inches.

U 2

308

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

VIU.

of the harbour n, berth of more than half a mile, till past the bar, after
which they may be approached to 2 cables ; anchor in •? or 8 fathoms near
the centre of the harbour, about half a mile from its head.

In strong south or south-westerly gales the sea breaks heavily over the
bar, but the anchorage is always safe, and landing is at all times practicable
in Boat basin. „/i-,, ,r.v ',fcr-'\ n"

The natives though friendly are much inclined to pilfering, and should
be carefully watched. _ . .

ESTEVAN POINT, 15 miles W. i N. from Rafael point, and
92 raileq W. by N. from cape Flattery, is a low, wooded and projecting
point, bordered by a sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders. A ledgo, a
mile wide extends nearly one mile off its south-west side. Hole in the
Wall, the south part of the point, may be easily known by a remarkable gap
in the trees at its extreme, which is conspicuous from the south-west. •,«:;!

Sunday rock lies 1\ miles distant from the shore, and nearly 3 miles
W. \ N. from Hole in the Wall, the pitch of the point; within the ledge
good sh'jlter will be found for boats in all weathers.

In rounding the west part of Estevan point, it would not be prudent to
approach the shore within 2 miles.

From this point the coast takes a N.N.W. direction for 8 miles to Escalanto
point at the entrance of Nootka sound, and is low, foul ground existing off
it for some distance.

Estevan point ia situated in latitude 49° 22' 0" N., longitude 126° 32' 0" W.

NOOTKA SOUND,* of considerable political importance in former
years, is a large sheet oi water upwards of 6 miles in extent, containing
several islands, and irom its north side three long narrow arms penetrate
the land for disttinces of 18, 7, and 14 miles respectively. Its entrance
is 4^ miles wida between Maquinna and Escalante points, which bear
W. by N. i N. and E. by S. 4 S. from each other ; at the entrance the
shores are low, and have several oflF-lying dangers, but inside the sound
they become high, rugged, and precipitous, and are everywhere free
from danger.

The depths between the entrance points vary from 40 to 60 fathoms,
deepening within the sound to upwards of 100 fathoms in many places ;
but outside, to the southward of the entrance, and extending 6 miles west
from Estt^van and Escalante points, is a bank of 22 to 30 fathoms water,
deppening gradually to the south-west. In the vicinity of the Bajo reef, and
to the westward of it, are from 20 to 27 fathoms ; but at a distance of
7 miles south of Nootka island 40 to 60 fathoms will be found. In fine

•

♦ See Admiralty plan : — Nootkft Bouml, No. 1,916: scale, m^2-0 inches.

VIU-

OHAp.vin.] HESQUIAT HARBOUR. — NOOTKA SOUND.

309

weather, tho natives will bo met with in cantes, in considerable numbers
on these banks, fishing for halibut, which are very plentiful along this
coast.

There are four anchorages in the sonrici, two of which, Friendly cove
and Plumper harbour on the east side of Nootka island, are small
though easy of access to steamers ; the former is one, and the latter
7 miles within the entrance ; the others in the Tlupana arm, though
well sheltered, are more inconvenient, being 13 and 16 miles from the
entrance.

Aspect. — From seaward the appearance of the land near the entrance
of the sound oflfers to the navigator many striking features which in
fine weather render it almost impossible to be mistaken ; the low land
of Estevan and Maquinna points at the entrance, with the breakers
off them, the Nootka cone at the east point of Nootkn, island, and if
coming from the South or S.S.W., Conuma peak, a remarkable steeple-
shaped mountain, 4,889 feet high (page 312), is a most conspicuous
feature. - .th . . > . . v .

Tid0Si — It is high water, full and change, in Nootka sound, at 12
hours, and the rise and fall is about 12 feet ; the tidal streams are
evexywhere inconsiderable.

EscalflJltO point, the eastern entrance point of the sound, is low
and rocky ; some small islets, and rocks generally above high water,
extend off it in a westerly direction for xipwards of one mile, but they are
steep-to on their outer edge. At their outer end is a rock only uncovering
at low water.

From Escalantc point to Burdwood point at the narrowest part of
entrance on the east side, the coast, which still keeps a N.N.W. direction
for 3 miles, is bordered by several off-lying rocks, and should not be
approached within one mile until close to the latter point, which is steep-to,
and may be approached to within one cable.

Maquinna point, the west entrance point of the sound, is 13|
mileg north-west of Estevan point, and 4^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from
Escalantc point ; it is low end wooded, and at its extreme is a remarkable
bare-topped conical rock about 60 or 70 feet high ; some rocks extciid
8 cables off it in an easterly direction, also along tbe coast from it to the
eastward nearly as ixir as the entrance of Friendly cove, and the shore
should not be approached nearer than three-quarters of a mile, till near the
latter place.

BajO reef, 6 miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from M.*quinua point and 2}
miles distant from the shore, is about 2 cables in extent, ".iid the sea only
brcRks on it in heavy weather. This reef is the only hidden danger outside

310

VANCOUVER island; WEST COAST.

[chap. Till.

the sound, and is dangerous to vessels entering it from the westward. Yu-
quot point, the east extreme of Nootka island, kept open east of Moquinna
point, beariug N.E. ^ E., leads 1^ miles south-east of it; and Bight cone
(a remarka'^le summit on the south side of Nootka island) kept well open
v/est of Bajo point bearing N. by W., leads 1;^ miles west of the reef.

FRIENDLY COVE,* at the east extreme of Nootka island, just
within the narrowest part of the entrance to the sound and about 2^ miles
north-east of Maquinna point, is about 2 cables iu extent and sheltered
from the sen by several small rocky islets on its south-east side. The
entrance, one cable wide, is from the north-east. The shores on both sides
of the cove are rocky and about CO feet high on the north side, but at the
head is a small space of clear cultivated flat land, around which in the
sumreier the natives build an extensive village.

Aucliorage '" Friendly cove, in from 5 to 9 fathoms, is of small
extent, affording only room for one vessel of moderate size to lie moored
in ihe middle, though several small ones would find shelter.

Directions.- If desiring to anchor in Friendly cove, round Observa-
tory islet, the east entrance point, close to, and if in a large vessel moor
with anchors S.S.W. and N.N.E., letting go the first immediately on
entering the cove. Sailing vessels, unless with a fair wind, would find
some- difficulty in entering ; and if unable to shoot in, it would bo
preferable to warp or proceed farther up the sound to Plumper harbour.

SuppliOB. — No fresh water in any quantity can be procured at
Friendly cove, or nearer than Marvinas bay; but fish and deer may
generally be obtained in large quantities from the natives.

Ma^rvilias bay. — The west shore of Nootka sound from Friendly
cove runs in a N.N.W, direction for about C miles to the entrance of the
Kendrick arm and Tahsia canal ; it is rocky, and near the south part some
islets lie parallel to it, extending for nearly 2 miles, distant about 3 cables
from the shore. There are two small creeks with entrances too narrow for
a vessel to enter ; the uorthernmost of them, named by the Spaniards Boca
del lufierno, lies abreast the north part of the above-mentioned islands^
and 1| miles from Friendly cove. Marvinas bay, 4 miles N.N.W. from
Friendly cove, on the east side of Nootka island, is of small extent and
open to the southward , it only affords auc''orage to a coaster.

Water. — Tliere are large fresh-water streams at the head of Marvinas
bay, and just south of it, convenient for watering.

Kondrick arm, at the west end of Nootka sound between Nootka
and Narrow islands, is about 5 miles long in a north-westerly direction,
and half a mile wide, connected at the north part by a narrow boat puss

* Sr« plan of Friendly cove on Admirahy chart, No. 1916 j scale, m = 11-8 iuohos.

CHAP. VIII.] NOOTKA SOUND; FRIENDLY COVE, &C.

311

to the Tahsis canal ; on the west side, 2 miles from its south part, is
Plumper harbour, easy of access, and well sheltered. Northward of this
harbour the shores of the arm on both sides are rooky, terminating in two
narrow creeks at the head, useless for purposes oi navigaiiou.

PLUMPER HARBOUR, on the wesf side of Kendrick arm, and
6 miles from Friendly cove, is a small bay indenting the east side of
Nootka island, about 3 cables in extent an'l affording good anchorage
in 12 fathoms. It is protected on the east side by two small wooded islets
from 30 to 40 feet high ; on the west side the shore is rather swampy,
and there are several fresh-water streams.

Anchorage. — There is & clear passage into the harbour between the
two islets, or to the northward of the north one, which may be rounded at
the distance of one cable, and there is rtwm for a vessel to lie at single
anchor inside ; it is the best anchorage in the sound, the only drawback
being its disiunce from the entrance.

Tahsis canal, the entrance to which is at the north-west part of
Nootka sound, abotit 6 miles from Friendly cove, is a long narrow arm of
the sea, nearly straight, and 14 ipiles long in a N.W. by N. direction ; the
shores are moyntainous, rocky, and steep-to, and there is no anchorage in
it. In many parts this canal is only 2 cables wide, but it becomes gradually
broader at the head, where is a large stream, and also a considerable village,
to which tlic natives resort during the season for salmon, which are caught
here in great plenty.

At 10^ miles from the entrance of the canal on the west side, and
separating the north point of Nootka island from the main of Vancouver
island, are the Tahsis narrows, one cable wide, with 28 fathoms in the
centre ; they connect Esperanza inlet with the Tahsis canal ; the tide runs
weakly through them, the flood from the westward.

At the entrance of Tahsis canal is a small island with a clear passage
about one cable wide on both sides of it.

Bligh island, b'i"g '"^ ^^^ centre of Nootka sound, is the largest island
in it, being about 4^ miles long in a northerly direction, and 2 miles wide in
the northern part ; its shores are rocky, and indented by cret-ks on the
southern side. Its south extreme is a long narrow point about 3 miles
north-east of the entrance to the sound, and off its south and west sides are
a number of islands extending upwards of one mile from it, all steep-to on
their outer edges, but among which no vessel shouhl venture. The south
part of the island is rather low, but it rises in the north and west paris to
1,030 and 1,200 feet.

Resolution cove, at the south-east point of this island, just within the
entrance of the Zuciarte channel, is only deserving of notice aa the spot

312

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[chap. \av

where Captain Cook refitted his ships in April 1778 ; it is only a slight
hend in the coast, with a deep and rocky bottom, and inconvenient for an
a'^chorage, being also open to the south-west.

Junction island, lying about midway between the south-east point
of Narrow island and west side of Bligh island, is about half a mile long
and 250 feet high ; a small islet lies close off its north-Avest side and another
ou the opposite side. Tlie channel lies to the west and north of Junction
island, and no vessel should pass between the latter and Bligh island. :

Zuciarte channel, between the east shore of Nootka sound and
Bligh island, is about 5 miles long in a northerly direction, and upwards
of half a mile wide in the narrowest part ; its shores are high and clear of
danger, the depths within the channel varying from 80 to 100 fathoms.

Guaquina, or Muchalat arm, extends 1 7 miles in an E.N.E.
direction from the north-east part of Nootka sound, and varies in breadth
from one-quarter to upwards of one mile. It is bounded on both sides by
mountains from 2,000 to 4,000 feet high, and presents similar features
to the inlets before descrilied along this coast, terminating in low land at
the head, through which a small stream flows into the inlet ; there is no
anchorage whatever within this aim except for coasters.

One and a half miles within the entrance is Gore island, which ia
narrow, and about 3 miles long, ia an east-north-east direction ; there is
a clear deep passage on either «ide of it, the southern one being less than
one cable wide at the east part. The island rises in the centre to 1,200 feet,
sloping gradually to each end ; its shores are rocky.

On the north side of this arm, 14 miles within the entrance, is an
extensive valley, through which flows a large stream, named the Gold
river, indications of that metal having been discovered there ; the land in
the vicinity of ,this stream is lightly timbered and very fertile ; a small
vessel may enter it at high water.

The Muchalat Indians have a village at the mouth of Gold river.

•A 5 :i>iU.

TLUPANA ARM, the entrance to which is in the north part of
Nootka sound, is about 7 miles long in a northerly direction, branching off
at the head in two smaller arms extending to the nortii-west and north-
east, the former about 3 miles, the latter 2 miles long, and each terminating
in low land. Its shores are high and rocky, and the depths in it vary
from 80 to upwards of 100 tiathoms ; there are two anchorages, one At
Deserted creek on the west side, and the other at Head bay, the termination
of the north-west branch. , , ^ , ,

The mountaina at the north part of this arm are the highest in the
Bound, many being from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea ; Conuma peak

CHAP, viii.] NOOTKA SOUND ; TLUPANA ARM ; DIRECTIONS. 313

rising 7 miles north-east from the head, is 4,889 feet high, and of a
steeple shape.

Deserted creek, on the west side of the arm 3 miles within the
entrance, is 2 miles long in a westerly direction and about 2 or 3 cables
wide ; a vessel may anchor in'12 to 14 fathoms at one-third of a mile from
it,s head. Island bay, a small cove on its north-east side, just within the
entrance, has an islet in the centre, to the westward of which is room for
a vessel to anchor in 12 fathoms.

At the southern extreme of the promontory separating the two branches
at the head of Tlupana arm is Perpendicular blufif, a remarkable precipice
of considerable height.

Head bay, the termination of the western branch of the Tlupana
arm, is nearly one mile long in a westerly direction, about 4 cables wide,
and affords anchorage in from 14 to 16 fathoms at the distance of 3 or
4 cables from its head. At the entrance on the north side are three small
islets about 3 or 4 feet above high water, the inner one connected to the
shore by a beach at low water ; between these islets and Perpendicular
bluff is a small bay, where a vessel may anchor in from 16 to 18 fathoms.

Directions. — Entering Nootka sound from the southward, after
rounding Estevau point steer about N.N.W. for the entrance, which
will be easily made out by the rocks off Escalaute and Maquinna points ;
keep about 2 miles off the eastern shore till past Escalante point, when
hlcer up mid-channel into the sound. If bound to Friendly cove haul
over to the west side of entrance for Yu quot point, which may be
approached within a distance of one cable, and rounding it sharply, anchor
or moor, as most convenient, in Friendly cove in from 5 to 9 fathoms.

If bound to Plumper harbour, after passing Yu quot point keep about
half a mile from the north-east side of Nootka island, on a N.N.W. or
N. by W. course for 5 miles to the entrance of the Keudrick arm, when
steer up the latter in mid-channel till abreast Plumper harbour, which may
be entered by passing between Bold and Pass islets on its east side, or
going to the northward of the former; anchor in 11 to 12 fathoms near
the centre of the harbour.

Should it be desired to anchor in any of the anchorages within the
Tlupana arm, steer as before directed till within half a mile of the entrance
to the Kendrick arm, when haul to the north-cast, pass to the westward
of Junction and Bligh islands, and steer up the Tlupana arm in mid-
channel, or close to on either shore. Deserted creek and Head bay are
clear of danger and may be entered without difficulty.

Entering Nootka sound from the westward, on nearing Bajo point do
not approach the south shore of Nootka island within 4 miles, or shut in

314

VANCOUVER ISLAND; WEST COAST.

[chap. VIII.

Bight cono with Bajo point hearing N. by W., until Yu quot point opens
east of Maqninna point bearing N.E. \ E., which will clear the Bajo reef;
a vessel may then steer for the entrance of the sound, about N.E. by E.,
not approaching the shore between Maquinna and Yu quot points nearer
thnn one mile, until abreast the latter, which may be rounded close to ;
after which proceed up the sound as before directed.

If beating into Nootka sound, when standing to the Avestward, keep
Yu quot point open east of Maquinna point bearing N.E. ^ E., which will
keep a vessel well clear to the eastward of Bajo reef ; in standing to the
eastward do not approach Escalante point within 1-J miles, nor bring Burd-
wood point to bear northward of N. by E. until abreast it, when the shore
may be approached close to ; when standing towards Maquinna and
Yu quot points on the west side, avoid bringing the latter to bear to the
eiistward of N.N.E. until abreast it, when it may be approached close to.

Nootka sound is easier of access than any other place on the whole of
the west coast of Vancouver island, the entrance being nearly 2 miles
wide in the narrowest part ; and by attending to the above directions any
sailing vessel may beat in or out of the sound. If the night be clear, and
provided with a chart, it may be entered without risk by bringing the
entrance to bear N.N.E., and in a steamer but little difficulty would be
experienced in picking up the anchorages of Friendly cove and Plumper
harbour.

NOOTKA ISLAND, which bounds iho west side of Nootka
sound, is of considerable extent, being 15 miles long in a northerly
and 20 miles in a westerly direction. Its south, or outer shore is low,
rising gradually inland to summits 1,500 and 2,900 feet above the sea, and
has a beautiful and fertile appearance ; it is bordered by a sandy beach
nearly the whole distance, and the sea breaks heavily along it.

Bajo point, 6 miles west from Maquinna point, is low and rocky.
A ledge named the Inner Bajo reef extends 1| miles from it in a
southerly direction ; and the Bajo reef {see page 309) lies 2^ miles S.S.E.
from it.

Westward of Bajo point the coast takes a west-north-west direction for
10 miles to Ferrer point, and is slightly indented. Bight cone, a remark-
able summit, 540 feet high, rises 3 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from Bajo ytoint,
and is about one mile inland.

When navigating along the south side of Nootka island west of the
Bajo reef, it would not be prudent to approach the shore within 2 miles,
until near Ferrer point, though there are no known outlying dangers.

NUCHATLITZ INLET,* on the north-west side of Nootka
island, about 18 miles W. by N. ^ N. from the entrance to Nootka sound,

* See Admiralty plan : — Esperanza and Nuchatlitz inlets, No. 589 ; scale, m a 2 * inches.

CHAP, vin.] NOOTKA ISLAND. — NUCHATLITZ INLET.

315

is 6 miles long in a north-easterly direction, and 3 miles wide at entrarce,
narrowing towards the head ; its shores are high and rocky, and much
broken into creeks and small bays : off the entrance, and within are several
dangers. The depths in the inlet vary from 5 to 1 7 fathoms, and there
are two good anchorages, port Langford on the north side, and Mary basin
at the bead ; but owing to the dangers off the entrance of the inlet,
they are both rather difficult of access.

Porrer point, the south entrance point of the inlet, is low and
rocky ; there is a depth of 14 fathoms at a distance of 2 cables from it, and
half a mile eastward of the point is North-west cone, a very remarkable
conical summit 350 feet high, which proves a very useful guide to this
locality from the westward.

Danger rock, lying in the south part of the entrance, upwards of
one mile N.W. ^ W. from Ferrer point, is the worst danger in entering, as
it is of very small extent, and the sea only breaks on it in heavy weather ;
it is steep-to on all sides, there being 11 fathoms close to it. The best
passage into the inlet is between this rock and Ferrer point.

Leading mark. — Mark hill, at the head of inlet, in line with the
north part of Fitz island bearing N.E. J E., leads south of this rock midway
between it and Ferrer point, and through the fairway into the inlet.*

NucliatlitZ reef, in the centre of the entrance and one-third of a
mile north of Danger rock, is about three-quarters of a mile long in an
E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and one cable wide. The sea generally
breaks on this reef, and at its eastern extremity is a small rock awash at
high water ; there is a clear deep passage between it and Danger rock, and
also apparently to the northward of it, but neither should be attempted
by a stranger, as no leading marks can be given for going through them.

South reef, nearly 2 cables in extent and covering at three-quarters
flood, lies just within the entrance on the south side, one mile N.E. by N.
from Ferrer point, and about 3 cables distant from the shore.

Mark hill, in line with the north summit of Fitz island bearing N.E. ^ E.,
leads 2 cables north of this reef.

liOUie creek, just inside South reef, is shoal, and nearly a mile in
extent; there are several rocks off its entrance, and no vessel should
enter it s to the eastward of the creek the south shore of Nuchatlitz inlet
is rocky, but appears to be clear of danger at the distance of one cable.

Fitz island, in the centre of the inlet, and 3 miles from the entrance,
is of small extent, low, rugged, and covered with a few stunted pine trees,
the tops of which are about 100 feet above the sea. At half a mile west

* See View A. on Admiralty chart, No. 689.

31G

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[CIUl*. VIII.

of it is a small bare island 20 feet high, and steep-to on the west side, bat
between the rock and Fitz island foul ground exists.

Baro rook, of small extent, and 12 feet above high water, lies three-
quarters of a mile to the south-west of Fitz island, and there is a clear
passage between them.

Mary basin, the termination of the inlet, is of considerable extent,
and completely land-locked by Lord island, which lies across the inlet at the
south-west part of the basin. The depths inside the basin vary from
5 to 9 fathoms, and the entrance on the north side of Lord island appears
clear of danger, but it has not been suflBciently examined to recommend its
being used by a stranger.

To the eastward of Mary basin, and connected to it by a narrow pass
50 yards wide, with from 7 to 9 fathoms, is Inner basin a sheet of v,'ater
upwards of 3 miles long in an easterly direction, with from 20 to 39
fathoms, and apparently useless as an anchorage.

Port Langford, on the north side of Nuchatlitz inlet, 2 miles
within the entrance, is about 1| miles long in a north-westerly direction,
and varies in breadth from one-quarter to half a mile. The depths in it vary
from 5 to 8 fatbjms, and it affords a secure and well-sheltered anchorage
in about 6 fathoms, muddy bottom, at the distance of half a mile from the
head. The east shore of the port is high, rising to a summit (Mt. Rosa)
2,553 feet above the sea, but the western shore is much lower ; both arc
rocky, but within the entrance clear of danger.

GolWOOd islot, At the south-west extreme of the entrance, is small,
and bare, 20 feet high, and nearly half a mile off shore ; it may be
approached to within one cable on the east side, but inside it, and to the
westward round the north entrance point of Nuchatlitz inlet, are innumer-
able rocks and small islets, among which no vessel should venture. . - ■

Belmont point, the east entrance point into port Langford, is two-
thirds of a mile N.E. ^ E. from Colwood islet; it is low, and a rock
uncovers one cable west of it. - "-*" '

Dir&Ctions. — Entering Nuchatlitz inlet from the southward, bring
Ferrer point on a N. by W. bearing, and steer to pass half a mile west of
it ; and when Mark hill comes in line with the north part of Fitz island
N.E. ^ E., haul in for the entrance on that mark, which will lead in
clear of Danger rock and South reef. When Ferrer point bears South, a
vessel will be inside the rock, and may steer N. by E. f E. or N.N.E. for
the entrance to port Langford ; pass midway between Colwood islet and
Belmont point, and proceed up the port in mid-channel, anchoring in 5 or 6
fathoms, at a distance of half a mile from the head.

CHAP. VIII.] NUCHATLITZ INLET. — ESPEEANZA INLET. 317

Approaching the port from th(t westward, kco|> an offing of 4 or 5 miles
till Ferrer point bears East, when steer for it on that bearing till the
leading mark for the channel (Mark hill in line with the north part of
Fitz island N.''\ ^ E.) C(' lies on, when proceed us before directed to the
anchorage in > rt Langford.

Intending to enter Mary basin (which is «not however recommendod),
when past Ferrer point keep the leading mark on till abreast Louie creek,
then steer a little to the eastward, passing about one cable south of Fitz
island and Bare rock (south-west of it) ; when past tli^ former steer
N.E. by E. ^ E. until the west point of Lord island bears N. by E., which
will clear the shoal exten ling half a mile to the southward from Benson
point, and then, on approaching Lord island, borrow a little towards the
north shore and enter Mary basin to the westward of the island and the
small islet nc.th-west of it; when abreast the latter haul more to the
eastward and anchor in from 5 to 6 fathoms near the middle of the basin.

No vessel of any size should attempt to beat into this inlet, as there is
generally a heavy sea at the entrance, and no stranger should attempt to
enter unless the leading mark is easily distinguished.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Nuchatlitz inlet at 12
hours ; springs rise about 12 feet.

ESPERANZA INLET,* the entrance to which lies between the
north-west side of Nootka island and the main land of Vancouver island,
122 miles W. by N. | N. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island, is about
IG miles long in a winding north-easterly direction, with an average breadth
of about one mile, narrowing at the head, and connected by a narrow pass
(Tahsis narrows) to the Tahsis canal in Nootka sound.

The entrance, though wide, contains several dangers ; but inside the
shores are nearly everywhere steep-to, rising on both sides to mountains of
considerable height. The southern shore is indented by three bays of
moderate extent, which, however, afford no anchorage ; and from the
northern one three arms of considerable length penetrate the Vancouver
shore for several miles in a N.N.W. direction. Port Eliza, in the western
arm, is the only anchorage in the inlet.

The depths in the entrance vary from 12 to 20 fathoms, deepening within
to upwards of 100 fathoms in many parts.

Middle Ohannel, the widest and best into Esjieranza inlet, is 3 miles
long in a northerly direction, anil upwards of one mile wide in the narrowest
part. Its entrance lies 3 miles VV.N. W. from Ferrer point, between Blind

* See Admiralty plan: — Esperansa and Nuchailits inlets, No. 689 ; scale, m
inchei.

2-0

318

VANCOUVEE ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[OIUP. VIII.

I eef, Needle rock, and a number of small islets extending off the north-west
point of Nootka island on the cast, and Middle reef and Black rock on the
west ; a part of the former is always above water.

Blind reef, at the south-east extreme of the channel, 3 miles
N.W. ^ W. from Ferrer point, is about 2 cables in extent, and the sea only
breaks on it in bad weather ; one cable north of it is a small rock, and at a
distance of 2 cablet from its south and west sides are depths of 13 to 19
fathoms.

Pin rook, of small extent awash at low water, lies two-thirds of a
mile east from Blind reef.

Needle rock, which is of small extent, lies two-thirds of a mile
north of the Blind reef, a ad has from 14 to 15 fathoms at a distance
of 2 cables west of it.

Middle reef, at the south-west entrance point of Middle channel and
scpariitiug it from the North channel, is about 3 cables long in a northerly
direction, and one cable wide. The sea generally breaks on this reef, and at
its south extreme is a small rock 4 feet above high water; there are from 5
to 20 fathoms, at the distance of one cable on all sides of it; its south part
lies 4 miles N.W. by W. J W. from Ferrer point.

Leading mark. — Leading hiU in line with Black rock bearing N.
by VV. leadiii through the fairway of Middle channel two-thirds of a mile
west of Blind reef, one mile west of Needle rock, and half a mile east of
Middle reef.* . .

North channel leads into Espcranza inlet west of Middle reef,
between it and the dangers off the south-east point of Catala island. It
is about oiio-third of a mile wide, and upwards of 2 miles long, merging
at the north part into Middle channel ; the depths in it vary from 17 to 22
fathoms, and the dangers on its west side are all above water.

Leading mark. — Black rock in line with Double island bearing
N. by E. J E., leads in through the fairway of North channel clear of all
danger.f

CATALA ISLAND, H miles N.W. i W. from Ferrer point, on
the west side of the entrance to Esperanza inlet, is about 1| miles long
in a westerly direction, and one mile wide in its broadest part. It is
wooded and from 150 to 200 feet high, its shores are rocky, and sevc'.-al
dangers exist at a considerable distance off it on all sides; its north
side is separated from the Vancouver shore by a passage half a mile
wide, named Rolling roadstead, and a vessel may find a tolerably secure

♦ See View C. on Admiralty chart, No. 589.
t ^«< View B. on Admiralty chart, No " '

cnAP.vm.] ESPERANZA INLET; ROLLING ROADSTEAD. 819

anchorage there in from 4 to G fathoms, though gencrnlly a swell prevails
in it.

The Twins, two small islets connected with each other at low water, lie
off the south point of Catala island, and foul ground oxtendH nearly I^ miles
south from them, terminating in Low rock (G feet above high water), which
forms the south-west entrance point to the North channel.

Black rook, which lies 4 cables S.E. from the east point of Cntala,
is a small bare rock 20 feet above high water ; foul ground exists between
it and Catala, and also one cable south of u ; a vessel should not
approach its eastern side nearer than 2 cables, nor attempt to pass west
of it.

ROLLING ROADSTEAD. — Entrance reef, about

3 cables north of the east point of Catala island at the eastern part of
Boiling roadsteiul, is of small extent, and covers at half flood.

Arnold rock, half a mile north from Entrance reef, and about
2 cables distant from the opposite shore, is awn<ih at high water ; midway
between these rocks arc G^ fathoms, and in the roadstead from 4 to 6 fathoms.
The outer rocks off the north-west part of Catala island, open north of the
low grassy point at tlie north side of the latter, bearing W. by. S., leads into
Rolling roadstead, midwoy between the Arnold rock and Entrance reef.

Half a mile inshore, and overlooking the noith-cast part of Rolling
roadstead, is Leading hill, 1,104 feet above the sea ; it is of conical shape,
and conspicuous from the entrance to the Middle channel.

Double island lies half a mile from the west shore at the inner and
narrowest part of the entrance to Esperanza inlet, and 3^ miles within the
outer part of the North and Middle channels. It is of small extent, and
wooded ; a number of rocks exist between it and the shore, but 2 cables
distant from its east side are depths of 25 to 45 fathoms.

Flower islet, on the opposite shore, one mile E.S.E. from Double
island and half a mile distant from the north-west point of Nuotka island,
is small and bare, and is the northernmost of the islets off Nootka island
between the entmnces of Nuchatlitz and Esperanzu inlets. At 2 cables
south-west from it is a small rock 2 feet above high water, and 3 cables west
from it a depth of 50 fathomj.

; Eastward of Flower islet the south shore of Esperanza inlet takes a
winding irregular outline to the E.N.E., is everywhere steep-to, and rises
gradually to summits 2,000 and 3,000 feet high. There are three bays, all
too deep for anchorage; in the western one, which is just within the
entrance, are several small islets.

320

VANCOUVER island; wist coast.

[cujir. viu.

Centre isl<illd, ^mK a milo off the south shore, and about I^ miles
north-east of Flower islet, in about three-quarters of a mile long in an east
and west direction, and of moderate height ; itti shores are rock^, and may
bo approached to one cable.

Hecate Clianiiel, Q^ar the head of the iulet, is 4| miles long in a
. winding direction to the eastward, and its average breadth is about
6 cables. The western end is 8 miles from the entrance of Esperonza
inlet ; and the eastern (Tahsis narrows), is about one cable wide, with
28 fathoms, connecting this chauael with the Tahsis canal in Nootka
Qound ; the shores arc high and rocky, and may be approached close to.

PORT £LIZA, the entrance to which is on the north side of Esperanza
inlet, one mile north-east of Double island, is a narrow arm 5^ miles
long in a N.W. direction, its breadth varying from 2 to 4 cables;
the shores are high, and there are some rocks and small islands in
the entrance, and along the eastern shore. There is good anchorage
in from 14 to Id fathoms at half a mile from the head, and also ia
Queen's cove, which is upwards of one mile within the ontranco on the
east side.

The head terminates in a small patch of low swampy land through
which flow two fresh-water streams, and off it a bank dries one cable
at low water.

Harbour iS^Itlld, in the centre of the entrance, is about 4 cables in
extent, woodad, and of moderate height. The passage into port Eliza on
its east side, through Birthday channel, is 2 cables wide in the narrowest
part, and clear of danger. Between Harbour island and the west shore lies
False channel, which has irregular soundings, and in its south part are two
rocks which cover at half flood.

Fairway island, on the east side of Birthday channel, and 4 cables
east from Harbour island, is of small extent, and covered with a few stunted
trees; some rocks extend a short distance o£E around it, the eastern
ones being about 6 feet above high water.

Channel reef, l"^!^ « n^i'^ N.N.W. of Harbour ibland, in the middle
of port Eliza, is about one cable in exttnit, and covers at three-quarters
flood ; at one cable from its eastern side, are iiom 16 to 26 fathoms; beyond
this reef there are no dangers in the port at more than one cable from the
shore.

Queen's cove* on the east side of the port, about I^ miles from the
entrance, is 5 cables long, and 2 cal)U'8 wide, but at the entrance the
width is contracted to half a cable by a small island, which at low water.

* See pluu of Queeu'n cove on Admiralty chart, No. 589 } tcti*, m i- lS-0 inohw.

CHIP. VIII.]

ESPERANZA INLET; POET ELIZA.

321

. is connected to the eastern side of the cove. The channel lies to the
westward of the island.

The cove affords room for a largo vcdaol to lie moored in the centre in
from 6 to 7 fpthoms water. Its shores are high, and rocky, and it is
completely land-locked, but it is easy of access for a steamer; -^ larps
sailing vessel would, however, be most likely obliged to warp in ; there is
a fresh- water stream of considerable size on the west side of its head,
very convenient for watering.

E SPINOZA ARM, the entrance so wliich is 2 miles north-east of
port Eliza, is 8 miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its average breadth
is half a mile. The soundings within it are deep, and it aifurds no anchor-
age; at tlie entrance, on the west side, are some small islets, and a
rock which uncovers. This inlet presents similar features to the other
inlets along the coast, being bounded by high, rocky, rugged shores, and
terminating in low land at the head. At the distance of 4 miles within
the entrance, on the east side, is a narrow branch or fork extending 3
miles north-east to its head, wiiieh is separated by a narrow neck 3 cables
wide from the Zeballos arm, forming a peninsula of considerable size to
the southward. The entrance to this narrow branch is choked up with
rocks.

ZEBALLOS ARM, the entrance to which lies 10 miles within the
inlet, at the west end of Hecate channel, is about 6 miles long in a winding
direction to the north-west, and about two-thirds of a mile wide ; similar
to Espinoza arm, ic oHers no anchorage whatever, and is of no use to
the navigator.

Directiiins. — A stranger entering Esperanza inlet from the south-
ward, through ihe Middle channel, and intending to anchor in port Eliza,
should pass Ferrer point at a distance of about 3 miles, and keep on a
northerly course till Hearing the entrance to Middle eluinnel, when steer
to bring Lt-ading hill in line with lUack rock bearing N. by W., which will
lea<l through the fairway, and clear of the dangers on both sides of the
channel. When the south point of Catala island bears W.N.W., a '•essel
will be inside the dangers at entrance, and should steer about N N.E.
for the entrance to port Eli/u, passing from 2 to 3 cables east of Double
island. When entering the port steer through liirthduy channel, passing
one cable cast of llailwur island ; when pai<t the east point of tiio latter,
keep about N.W. by N. for the entrance to Queen's cove, or further
over to the eastern shore, to avoid Channel reef; in entering the cove,
pass to the west of the island at its entrance, and moor immediately the
vessel is inside, anchors N.W. and S.E.

A 17498. «

322

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap, vtir

If poinp to the hoad of port Elizn, kocp on as before dirooted t\'.l with'n
one oablo of Qiioons covo, wlicn lianl Hharply to the woHtward, keepijig
about one cable from the east shore, till Fairway island comes in line with
the east point of Harbour island bearin<? S.E. by E., when the vessel will
be west of (/hannol red, and may steer up the port in viiid-channel,
anchoring near the centre, about 4 or 5 cables from the head, in 15 or
16 fathoms.

No (^ailing vessel of any size should attempt to enter port Eliza unloss
with a steady fair wind.

If bound to IloUing roadstead, enter the Middle channel as before
directed, but instead of steering for the entrance of port Eliza, keep on a
N. ity W. or N. ^ W. course, (passing about oue-ipiarter of a mile east of
Black rock,) luitil the outer extreme of the islets oil" thu north-west pivi t
of Catala island come o[)en north of the low grassy point on its north
side bearing W. by S., when haul in for the roadstead on that mark,
which will lead midway between Arnold and Entrance reefs ; anchor
iu 6 fathoms, with the extremes of Catala island bearing W.S.W. and
S.E. by S.

Entering Esperan/.a inlet from the westward, keep an offing of 2J or
3 miles from Cat^vla island (iflCyuquot hill be ma^le out, by keeping it
open west of Tat chu point N.W. by W., a vessel will be well dear of
any dangers off Catala islan<l), till Double island comes in line with Black
rock liuaring N. by E. |J K., and enter the inh't through th'- .Vorlli channel
with this mark on, which will leml in elt-ar of danger. When the TwMis
islets bear N.W. by W,, haul more to the ea«tward, pas.«ing one-quarter of a
mile outside the Mid and Black rocks, and steer for Rolling roadstead
or port Eliza as before dinfcted.

If the weather b(! clear and the marks can i)e made out, both North and
Middle charuiels are (Mjinilly good, the latter being wide ( noiigh for a
TesHcl to beat through, though it would be hoxarduuii for a Htranger to
attempt, as no turning marks can be given.

Generally a heavy swell pnsvails off the enti'ance to Nuchatlitz and
E«peran/Ji inlets, and no sailing vessel should altompt to enter, or leave
either of them, unless with h steady fair, or leading wind.

Depths of 20 to 40 fathoms extend for nearly 20 miles westward from
the entrances to Nuchatlitz and Esperan/.a inlets ; at a distance of 10 miles
off shore, to the S.S.W,, are from 70 to 80 fathoms.

TidGS. — It is high wate-r, full and change, in Esperanza inlet, at
121 Om. ; springs rise 12 fcot.

The COAST,* westward of Catala island to Tat chu point, takes a
westerly direction for u|»wards of 3 miles, is indented by two ,«raaU

• .See Admiralty chhtts:
inch.

-Qiiutsino to EHperunia, No. :>>id ; ocale, m = 05 ofiiu

CHAP. VIII.] BARRIElt ISLANDS. — KYTJQUOT SOUND.

323

li!

Brady haya, and bordored ))y a niimbor of roclcH, some of whicli extend
nearly 2 miles off shore. Tut dm point is clifly ; Hoino rocks lie u short
distance to tb<? HOiithward of it, und there ia n native village ctf considerablo
sizo ttt half a miio east of it. Eliza dome, u remarkable summit, 2,819
feet above the sea, rises i^ miles N.N.W. of the point, and in very con-
upicuons from neavvanl.

From Tat chu point the coast turns to the W.N.W. for 7 miles to the
entrance of Kyu(iuot sound, and i« indented by several small bays, in homo
parts of which boats may Hud shelter.

BARRIER ISLANDS.— At 2 miles westward of Tat chu point
is the eommt'iicemirit of a chain of small islands and reefs bordering
the coast of Vancouver i.>(land for nearly 20 miles in a westerly ilirection
to the entrance of On ou kinsh inlet. They extend in some parts as
far as 6 miles off shore, and through them are two known navigable
channels, the Kyu({uot and Halibut, leading to anchoragci the former
channel leads into Kyuquot sound, and the latter into Clan niuiek
harbour, but a' a rule no stranj'cr should venture in the channels
among these i4lau«"M, unless the weather be clear, or without a pilot.

TTighftHt. islEl d, "'•'* "1 t'"J Harrier group, lying 2 miles south of
Union island, is a remarkable bare rock 08 feet high, and useful in
identifying the Kyn juot channel.

In thick weatler no vessel should stand nearer the l^arrier islands than
into a depth of 4() fathoms.

KYUQUOT SOUND,* ';he eastern entrance to which is 12 miles
from Ksperaiizii iidet, is a lu» .;e broken sheet of water penetrating
from the coast to a distance of 14 or 15 miles inland in two largo
arms, und several smaih-r ones. Union island, a large islanil 1,484 feet
high lying at the entrance, forms on either si<lc of it a channel into
tho sound, the eastern one only being fit for large vessels ; there are
also several islands within, mostly small ; its shores are mostly rocky
and verv much broken, rising to high mountains, 2,0(X) and 4,000 feet
above the sea.

Tin; depths outidde vary from 20 to 40 fathoms, mostly s.andy bottom ;
at tho entrance are from 40 to GO fathoms, but wiiliin the sound the
depths increase! in many pla<"js to upwards of i(X) fathoms. There are
three aiicliorages. Xwrrowgut and Easy creeks, and Fair harl)onr, the two
latter being of considcnible mIzc i)ut at a distance of l.'i and 10 miltr< from
the eiitrance ; the former, though very small, is only 5 miles within the
Bound.

• .SVe Aduiinilly itlan: ~Kyu()uot Hound, .\o, 717 ; ncnlc, m^ 1'8 incht!!*.

324

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. VIII.

Kyuquot Chaniiel leads into the sound through the Barrier
islands, and to tlie eastward of Union island. It is nearly straight, about
6 miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and about three-quarters of a mile wide ;
past the Barrier islands it is bounded on the west by Union island, and
on the east by the mainland of Vancouver i!>Iund; tlie depths in it vary
from 30 to upwards of 40 fathoms, increasing gradually to the inner part,
and a mid-chunnel course through is clear of danger.

East Entrance reef, one of the Banner group lying at the south-
east extreme of the channel, 65 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Tat chu point,
is about 2 cables in extent and 4 feet above high water ; no vessel should
stand inside it, nor, when entering the channel, round the reef nearer than
half a mile.

Rugged point, the south-east entrance point to Kyuquot sound, is
upwards of 2 mile* north of East p]ntranco reef on the east side of the
channel ; it is rugged and rocky, but steep-to on the west bide ; between
it and East Entrance reef are a number of rocks, among which no vessel
should venture. The east side of the channel to the northward of this
point is formed by the Vancouver shore, and is slightly indented and steep-
to, to the termination of the channel.

IVest rocks, «t the south-west extreme of Kyuquot ch »nnel and
2 miles N.W. \ W. from East Entrance reef, are two in n imber, the
highest bein;j; 50 feet above high water ; some rocks which cover at a
quarter floo<l extend half a mile 80uth-e.ist from them, with 20 fathoms
close to their outer edge. When navigating the channel do not. approach
West rocks within two-thirds of a mile.

"White Cliflf head, tl>e south-east extreme of Union island, is one
mile N.N.E. of tlie West rocks, and abreast Rugged point; it is about
70 feet higli, faced to the southward by a remarkable wliiie cliff ; there are
35 fathoms within one cable of it. Half a mile N.N.W. of the head Is
Kyuquot hill, a remarkable summit 740 I'eet high, bare of trees on its east
side, and very conspicuous from seaward.

Northward of White Cliff ln)ud, the east cotist of Union island trends in
an irregular outline to the N.N.E., for 2^ miles, to Chat channel point;
it is generally rocky, and rises gradually to summits 800 or 900 feet
high.

Chat channel point, the north-west extreme of Kyuqi\ot channel
and the cast point of Union island, is a low rocky print with a remarkable
nob just inside it ; a rock which covers at a quarter flood lies 2 cablet*
east of it, and the point should not be rounded nearer than half a
lailo.

TrWT

OHAP. Ttii.] KYUQTIOT SOUND ; NARROWGUT CREEK. 325

Leading island, just northward cf Kyuquot channel, anl nearly '^\
miie& from White ClifF head, is about 1 ^ miles long in an cast aud «r&fct
direction, and half a mile wide ; its shores are steep-to, and the island
rises near the centre to a summit 489 feet high, which, when kept midwny
between White ClifiF head and Rugged point, N. by E. | E., Kids into the
sound through the fairway of Kyiiquot channel.*

Union island, at the entrance to the sound, and protecting it
from the ocean, is of square shape, and upwards of 3 miles in extent ;
its surface is undulating, risir r in the north-west part to 1,484 feet; the
shorPH are rocky and much broken on the south and west sides.

Blind entrance leads into Kyuquot sound westward of Union
island, between it and the Vancouver shore, forming a narrow tortuous
channel with some rocks in the outer part ; it should not be entered by a
stranger, though coasters often enter the sound by this channel, but no
directions can be given for navigating it.

NarrOWgUt creek, in the south-east part of the sound, about 1^
miles from the termination of the Kyuquot channel, is one mile long in a
north-easterly direction, but is less than one cable wide just inside the
entrance. The depths in it vary from 16 to 8 fathoms, and there is only
just room for a vessel to moor; the shores are high, th' entrance is clear
of danger, and the creek easy of access to a steamer. A stream of
considerable size disemboguos at the bead of the creek, from which a bank
extends off 3 cables.

Shingle point, at ihe entrance to the creek on the north side, is bordered
by a ^andy beach, aud has 9 fathoms close to.

Deep inlet, »t I]^ railesJ north from Nurrowgut creek, is about
3 raile« long in u north-easterlv din«ction, but affords no anchorage ; on
its north side, at the •nitrance, is a remarkabio high precipice.

Ho hoae island, nearly in the centre of the sound, half a mile
north of Union island, is about 2 miles long in a north-easterly direction,
upwards of one mile wide, and about 600 feet high ; its shores are rocky,
and M«M»p-to. On its north-cast side is Dixie cove, where a small craft
may unohor iii 6 fathoms completely land-locked.

Pinnace channel, between Ho hoae island and the ca'<t shore
of the sound, is about li miles long in a northerly direction, and half a
mile wide, cleAT of danger, the depths in it varying from 1(3 to upwards of
100 tatlioms.

TAHSTSH ARM, in the north part of the sound, has its entrance
5 miles fVom the termtaation of Kyuquot channel. It is 6 miles long in a

• Ste View on Adminilty chiut, No. 717.

326

VANCOUVER ISLAND; WEST COAST. [chap. vni.

winding direction to tho northward, and its shores, except at the head, arc
high, rugged, and mostly steep-to : the head terminates in low swampy
land, through which flows a considerable stream off which a bank dries
one cnl)le ; and there is small village at the mouth of the stream ; on tho
east side, 2 miles below the heal, is a similar stream, oflF which a bank
extends about 2 cables.

Pair harbour, on the east side of Tahsish arm, is of an oblong shape,
2^ miles iu length in a N.E. direction, from 3 to 4 cables wide, and aflbrds
anchorage ueai' either end ir from 13 to 11 fathoms; its shores, generally,
are high, and steep ; at its head a bank dries off for one cable. The western
end of the harbour is formed by a low, narrow neck, about one cable
wide at low wafer, connecliiig an island to the mainland of Vancouver,
and separating the harbour from Pinnace channel. The entrance lies on
the north side of this island, is nearly one mile long, and from one to

2 cables wide, with some small islets on its north side, the dcptlis in it
being very irregular, varying from 5 to 20 fathoms ; when entering keep
the south siioro pretty close on board, but take care to avoid a rock which
lies on that shore about half-way in. A patch of 9 feet lies abreast ii,
and therefore considerable caution must be observed. This harbour can
be entered by steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair wind.

Some rocks, the outer one of which covers, lie 3 cables south west from
the entrance to Fair harbour, about one cable distant from the shore.

Mokotas island, i» the north part of tlie soul. J, between the
entrance to the Tahsish and Kukshittle arms, is about 2 miles long, and
one mile wide, rocky, about 400 feet high, its cast and west sides being
steep-to. At one cable from its north shore, near the centre, is a sunken
rock, and on its south-east side lie the Channel ro^ks, a small patch, about

3 feet above high water ; they, however, arc steep-' .,

The passage between MoketuH island and the north shore of the
sound, is 3 cables widf in the narrowest part, with from 14 to 38 fathoms
in mid-chaunel ; if using it a vessel ought to keep well over to the north
Bide.

Kokshittle arm, the entrance of which is in the north-west part
of the sound, about G miles from Kyuquot channel, is upwanls of 8 miles
long in a north-westerly direction, and about one mile wide at the entrance,
narrowing gradually towards the head ; ifs fjbnrcH are rocky, and of a
broken outline, with several small islets off them. The depths in it vary
%nm 20 to 80 fathoms, shoaling graduHlly towards thu head, and there are
BO daa^^rs ; a very good anchorage, the best in th'j sound, is on its west
aiiB tX 4 utiles from the entrance. The head of the arm terminates in low
BW»m[>y Innd, through which flows a small stream, and a bank oxteiids off
for Uie distance of about 2 cables.

•

CHAP, vin.]

KYUQUOT sound; FAIR HARBOTIR.

327

Jnst within the entrance, on the east side, is a small cove with 4 fathoms
in tlu^ centre, available for small craft.

Easy creek, the anchorage before referred to ou the west side of
KokHliittlc arm, and 13 miles from the entrance of the sound, is about
2 miles long in an E.S.E. direction, turning sharply round from its
entrance and running in this direction parallel to the inlet, being
separated from it by a narrow rocky peninsula. It is 4 cables wide at the
entrance, narrowing gradually to the head; the depths in it vary from
12 to 20 fathoms, and there is good anchorage from half a mile within the
entrance to the head. The shores are rocky, of moderate height, steep-to
on the north side, but from the south a sand-bank dries off in some parts
for the distance of nearly one cable. The best anchorage is one mile
within the entrance, in from 1.3 to IG fathoms, about one or 2 cables from
the north shore ; when entering keep near the north shore.

On the opposite side of the arm, abreast Easy creek, is a villag»> and
a stream of considerable size, off which a bank dries out about 2 cables.

ChamiSS bay, on the west side Kyuquot sound, about one mile from
the north part of Ulind entrance, is nearly half a mile in extent, but affords
no anchorage, the water being too deep.

Directions. — No sailing vessel should attempt to enter Kyuquot
sound, unless with a steady fair, or leading wad, as generally a heavy
swell prevails outside, which in a light wiacl would render her position
critical ; and no ctranger should attempt to venture in, unless the
weather is cVjar, and the leading mark for the channel can be easily
made out.

Entering the sound by the Kyuquot channel, which is the only one
a stranger should use, keep a good oiling, till the entrance of the channel
is made out, (White clift head, and Kyuquot hill at the south-east point
of Union island, which have been before described, are very conspicuous,
and will identify the channel,) when bring the summit of Leading
island midway between Chat channel and Rugged points bearing N.
by E. ^ E., and steer up the channel with that mark on ; wb'^n uearing
Chat channel point, give it a berth of at least 4 cables to avoid the
rock which lies off it. If bound to Narrowgut creek pass eastward
of Leading island, and keeping about one cable from the south shore, enter
the creek in mid-channel, and moor, if in a largo vessel, when indide.

If bound to Fair harbour, keep as before directed till near Leading
island ; pass to tlie westward of this island, and proceed jp to the north-
ward through Pinnace channel, keeping about one cable or ho iiom either
shore, on to the entrance of Tahsish arm. On nearing Fair harbour keep
from 2 to 8 cables from the cast side of the arm till the entianoe bears

328

VANCOTJVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. Tin.

E.S.E., when Bteor for it on that bcnring, keeping close over to the south
eliore {see page 32G) till inside, and anchor in the middle, about half a
mile from the cast end, in 1 1 fathoms.

Bound to Easy oreek, pa"^« to the westward of Leading, Ho hoac
and Moketas islands ; enter the Kokshittle arm in niid-channci, and
proceeding up it for a distance of 4 miles will bring a vessel abreast the
creek, which may be entered in mid-channel ; anchor in from 1.3 to 16
fathoms, about one mile within the entrance, and from one to 2 cables
from the shore.

Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Kyuquot sound at
12 hours; springs rise 12 feet.

CLAN NINICE HARBOUR, on the Vancouver shore, 3 miles
to the westward of Kyuquot sound, is about one mile long in a westerly
direction, half a mile wide, and affords good anchorage, in from 7 to
10 fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from the head, from which a
sand-bank extends 2 cables ; its shores are mostly low, and there arc
some rocks ou either side of the entrance.

The harbour is protected by Village, Table, and other islands of the
Barrier group, from the ocean, and there is only one channel, the Halibut,
into it through them, which, though clear of danger, should not, except
under unavoidable circumstances, be attempted by a slraugor.

Halibut Chaniiel, through the Barrier group from the ocean
to the entrance of Clan ninick harbour, lies westward of Table and
Village islands, and oast of Look-out island. It is about 3 miles long
in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide in tho narrowest part ; the
depths in it vary from 16 to 6 fathoms, being somewhat irregular, but
a mid-channel course through, except in tho uorthurn part, is clear of
danger.

Table island, on the east side of the channel, is the largest of the
Barrier group, being nearly half a mile in extent, and about 150 feet high ;
some rocks, mostly above water, extend half a inilo from its south side, the
outer one being 50 feet high, with 15 fathoms 2 ciibles west of it. Trap
bluff on the west side of the island is conspicuous.

Ancborage. — H^lf a mile east ot Table island is an anchorage
with from 1 to 6 fathoms, tolerably sheltered by some islands from seaward,
and much used by coasters in siunmer months ; the entrance to it is rather
intriciite, and no stranger, or any except a small vessel, should attempt to
enter

Village island, on the east side of Halibut channel, just north
of Table island, is small, and about 150 foot high; on its east side is a
Urge native village, much frequented in summer; oflf it a bank dries nearly

ORAP. TTTI.]

CLAN NINIOK HA.RBOUR.

329

8 cables. To tho enstwnrd of this island among the Barrier islands is
a small covo (Barter cove), with from one to 3 fathoms ; it is well
sheltered in all weather, and much frequented by coasters when fur
trading; the entrance to it is very narrow, and almost choked up with
rocks.

Rock. — Two cabkij north of Village islnml is a rock awash at high
water springs, but there is a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms ut a distance of one
cable from the west side.

IiOOk-OUt island, at the south entrance point of Halibut channel,
lies nearly one mile south-west of Table island ; it is small, covered with
a few trees, and about 150 feet high; its east side maybe approached
to 2 cables, but half a mile south-west of it are some rocki, on which the
sea always breaks.

Qranlte island, which forms the south 8i<le of Clan ninick harbour,
is about half a mile in extent, and joined by a sandy beach at low water
to the Vancouver shore.

Chief rock, 3 cables cast from its east point, is a very dangerous rock,
which lies ut tho termination of tho Halibut channel, and on'y uncovers at
low-water springs.

A sunken rock is said to exist nearly midway in the entrance to the
harbour, 2 cables north of Chief rock.*

Directions. — Bound into Clan nirJck harbour by the Halibut
channel (which is the only passage by which a stranger can enter it\
keep about 2 miles off tho Barrier islands till Look-out island bears
N„W. by N., when steer for ihe entrance of the channel, passing nbout

2 cables eiust of Look-out island. When the north-west end of Table
island bears N.E., steer about N.N.E., or more easterly, so as to pass 2 or

3 cables north-west of Trap blufl' on its west side; on noaring Gniiiito
island, bring Trap bluff in line with the east high water puit of Look-out
island S.S.W. \ W., and steer N.N.E. ^ E. for the entrance of the har-
bour, with tho above-mentiono<l mark on astern, till tho north side of
Granite island boars W. by N. ^ N., or tlu; harbour comes well open, when
a vessel will Ixi clear of the Chief rock, and may haul in to tho north-
wedtwanl for tho anchorage, passing about one cable to the southward of a
small rock 2 feet above water lying on the north side of the harbour
14 cables within tho (sntrance. .,va>

As before noticed, ijo stranger should attempt to enter this harbour
without a pilot, unless from absolute necessity, and if in a sailing vessel,
only with a steady fair wind.

* The HudBon'H Bay Company's steam vetsel Princesi Louise, drawing 9 feet, litruck
on this rock at low water springs

330

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[onxr. Tin.

Anchorage. — Anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoma, with tho extremes
of the hiirbour bearing East and S.E. or S.E. by S.

OU OU KINSH INLET,* 10 miles W.N.W. from Kynquot
sound, ia 7 miles long in a uorth-caatorly direction, urnl 8 cablcH wide at
the entrancf, narrowing gradually towards the hcml ; the shonis within
are higli, rising from 2,000 to upwards of 3,000 feet.

The depths in the inlet vary from 40 to 60 fathoniH, and there i« only
one indifferent anchorage, Battle buy, just within the entrance on the west
side. The entrance lies west of the Barrier islands, and the depths in it
vary from 14 to 48 fathoms.

Clara islet, at the south-east extreme of the enlrunce, is suihU, bare,
and 20 feet above high water ; no vessel should go eastwanl of, or approach
it within half a mile. This island is the westernmost of the Barrier islands,
and lies 21 J miles W. by N. from Tat chu point, where they maybe
almost said to commence.

Bunsby islands* on the east side of entrance, close in shore, are
about 2 miles in extent, and from 250 to .300 feet high ; tho passages
between them and tlie shore are choke<l up with rocks, but their west side
IS steep-to ; Pinnacle point and Green head at their south-west extreme
are remarkable. To tho northward of these islands is Malkso|X) inlet,
4 uiiles long in a north-easterly direction, but the entrance is intricate,
and there is no anchorage within it.

Cuttle group, lying at the south rtcst entrance point of Ou ou kiush
inlet, and 1^ miles N.N.W. from Clara islet, comprises a number of small
islets and rocks, some of tho former being wooded ; nearly one mile south-
west from them is a rock ou which the uea breaks in line weather. On the
Vancouver shore, just north-west of them, is Low cone, a remarkable
summit 356 feet high, and useful in identifying the entrance.

A vessel should not go to the westward of these islets, or approach
their east side nearer than 2 cables.

Sulivan reefs "ro » very dangerous patch of rocks lying nearly
8 miles outside tho entrance of Ou ou kinsii inlet, 2^ miles W. by S. from
Clara islet, and nearly 4 miles S.S.E. frcm Hat island in Naaparti inlet;
they are about half a mile in extent east and west, and tho sea only breaks
occasionally on them ; there o;9 from 10 to 11 fathoms close around them.

The entrance of Ou ou kinsh inlet open N.N.E. leads l\ miles «ast of
these reefs; Solander inland, oft' cape Cook, just open or shut in by the
land east of the cape bearing W. \ S. leads 1^ mihis south ; Hat island in
the entrance of Nasparti inlet, in line with a summit ou the west shore of

♦ See Ailinirnlty plan : — Ou ou kinsh inlet, No. 71«i ; scale, m = 1 '8 inches.

OHAP. nil.] OU OU KIN8H INLET. — NASPAKTI INLET.

331

the inlet bearing North Iciidfl 1^ miles west; and Hat island seen between
the IlayHtikcka bvoring N.W. | N., Icndu three-quarters of a mile north-
east of them.

BattlO bay, just withiu the entrance of Ou ou kinsh inlet on the
west side, is upwards of a mile wide, and iialf a mile deep, with f<cveral
islets and sunken rocks inside it near the middle ; near the north part
there is anchorage in from 6 to fathoms, which may be used in fine
weather.

Directions. — A wssel intcndiug to enter Ou ou kinsh inlet, and
anchor in Buttle liay, should keep un oiling of 4 or 5 miles from the main,
till Clara islet at the west extreme of the Barrier islands is made out,
when steer for it on a N.E. by N. bearing, passing about hulf a milo west of
the islet, which will take a vessel well clear of the Sulivan reefs. When
abreast the islet steer for the centre of the entronce about N.N.E., round
the Skirmish islets, which lie in the middle of Battle bay, at a distance of
2 cables, and anchor in 7 fathoms, midway between them and the north
side of the bay.

It is not recommended to use this anchorage, unless embayed, as it
affords but indifferent shelter in southerly gales, and no sailing vessel
should attempt to enter unless with a steady f^ir wind.

TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Ou ou kinsh inlet at
12h. Om., springs rise 12 feet.

NASFARTI INLET,* 3^ miles west of Ou ou kinsh inlet, on the
cast side of u largo iMjninsulu of which La(>e Cook is the south-west extreme,
and in the head of an open bight or bay, is about 4 miles long, in a
northerly direction, and about half a mile vide at the entrance, decreasing
in some places to less than 3 cables. Its shores arc high and rocky, in-
dented by some slight bays ; there is a fresh-water stream at the head,
from which a bank extends about 8 cables. The depths vary from 13 to
30 fathoms, and thenj is a secure though rather limited anchorage, in from
13 to 16 fathoms, at the distance of half a milo from the head. Outside
the entrance are several dangers, but none within, and the projecting
points may be approached to a distance of one cubio.

Haystacks, oft* the east side of the eutraneo, and Ig miles north from
the Sulivan reefs, are tvo bare, sharp-topped, cliffy rocks 65 foot high, and
about 3 cables apart ; at a distance of 2 cables from their west side are
from 25 to 26 fathoms, and there is a clear deep passage between them
and the Sulivan reefs ; northward of them, rocks and foul ground
exist.

* See Admiralty plan: — Naspirti inlet, No. 71A ; Hcale, m — 1 • B iaohe».

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PhotogrBpliic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

fif

332

VANCOUVER ISLAND; WEST COAST. [chap. viii.

Ea/St rock 3 cables from the east entrance point, is of small extent, has
17 fathoms at a distance of one cable to the westward of it, and covers at
half flood ; the Haystacks open south of Yule islet bearing S.E. by E.,
lead from 2 to 3 cables west of it.

Yule islet, about 40 feet high, lies midway between the Haystacks
and East roA

Mile rock breaker lies 1| miles from the west shore of entrance
to the inlet, and 2 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Sulivan reefs. It is very
dangerous to vessels entering the inlet, as it is of small extent and the sea
only breaks on it in heavy weather ; the depths around it are irregular,
there being from 13 to 32 fathoms at 2 cables' distance from it.

Hat island, in the entrance of inlet, in line with a summit on the west
side bearing North, leads 3 cables east of it, and well clear of the Sulivan
reefs, into the inlet. No vessel should stand to the westward of this
danger,

Mile rock, nearly one mile north of the above-mentioned danger, is a
small bare rock, 12 feet above high water ; there are 29 fathoms one cable
east of it, and a deep clear passage between it and the west shore. A
ledge, however, extends fully one cable from its north side.

Hat island, 70 feet high, lying in the centre of the inlet just within
the entrance, is small, and has a few stunted trees on the summit ; from the
sonihward it is very conspicuous, and appears somewhat like a hat. It is
8teep-to on the east side, but nearly midway between it and the west shore
is a shoal patch of 2^ fathoms, marked by kelp : when entering Nasparti
inlet pass eastward of the island.

Directions. — Nnsparti inlet should not be used by a stranger unless
from necessity, as in thick or cloudy weather it might be difficult to make
out the leading marks, and no one should attempt to enter unless they are
well made out, especially as the sea only breaks on the outlying dangers in
heavy weather, and they are seldom seen. A sailing vessel should, in
passing the entrance of this and Ou ou kinsh inlet, keep Solander island
open south of the land cast of cape Cook bearing West.

If entering Naaparti inlet, keep Solander island (off cape Cook) in line
with the land eastward of it bearing W. ^ S., until Hat island comes in line
•with a summit on the west side of the inlet bearing North*, when steer in
for the entrance on that bearing, which will lead 3 cables east of the Mile
rock breaker, well clear of the Sulivan reefs, and half a mile west of East
rock ; pass one or two cables east of Hat i»land, and ste-jr up the inlet iu
niid-channel, anchoring in 13 fathoms, about one-third of a mile from the
head.

* See Vi«w on Admiralty chart No. 716.

CHAP.vni.] NASPA-RTI INLET. — BROOKS PENINSULA. 333

Tides. — It 13 high water at full and change in Nasparti inlet, at
12 hours ; springs rise 12 feet.

BROOKS PENINSULA.*— To the westward of Nasparti inlet
is a penir.sula of an oblong shape, 9 miles long, and about 5 miles wide,
projecting into the ocean in a S.S.W, direction ; its shores are for the
most part very rocky, and rise almost abruptly from the sea to upwards of
2,000 feet ; there are several off-lying dangers around it, some of which
extend upwards of one mile from the shore.

Cape Cook or Woody point, the south-west extreme of this peninsula
and the most projecting point of the outer coast of Vancouver island is
163 miles W. by N. ^ N. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island, and
69 miles W. by N ^ N. from Estevan point. The cape rises abruptly from
the sea to a summit 1,200 feet high.

At a distance of 2 miles from cape Cook and the south side of the
peninsula the depths are from 20 to 90 fathoms, and as a rule no vessel
should approach nearer.

Cape Cook is situated in latitude 50° 7' 0" N., longitude 127° 55' 30" W.

Banks reef, which covers at three-quarters flood, and on which the
sea breaks heavily, lies 3 miles E.S.E. from cape Cook, and two-thirds of
n mile distant from the south shore of the peninsula.

Solander island, nearly one mile west of cape Cook, is bare,
580 feet high, and has two sharp summits ; between it andtlie cape the
passage is choked up with rocks, and no vessel or even boat should go
inside the island. f

BROOKS BAY, on the west side of Brooks peninsula, is a large open
bay about 12 miles wide, and 6 miles deep ; there are several dangers within
it. and two inlets, Klaskish and Klaskino, which afford anchorage but are
very difficult of access, and no vessel should attempt to enter either
unless embayed and unable to get out of Brooks bay : the soundings
are irregular, varying from 17 to 48 fathoms, shoaling generally to the
northward.

Gierke reefs li« i» the south-east part of the bay, 5 miles north from
cape Cook, their outer extreme being 2^ miles off the east shore of the
bay. They cover an extent of upwards of 2 miles, some are under water,
others uncover, and no vessel should venture among them.

Cape Cook kept on a S.S.E. ^ E. bearing, leads 2 miles west of these
reefs ; and Small islet at the entrance of Klaskish inlet, in line with Leading
cone at its head, bearing N.E. by E. ^ E., leads 1^ miles north.

* See Admiralty chart : — Quatsino to Ei<peranza, No. 583 ; scale, m = • 5 inch,
t .See View A. on Admiralty chart, No. 583.

334

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[chap. viit.

ELASEISH INLET,* at the head of Brooks bay on the west
side of Brooks peninsula, and 10 miles N.N.E. from cape Cook, is about
3 miles long in a north-easterly direction, and one mile wide at entrance ;
at its head is a long narrow basin, the entrance of which is too contracted
for a vessel to enter. There is an anchorage just within the entrance to the
inlet on the south side, to the eastward of Shelter island, but it is difficult
of access to a sailing vessel. ,

Surge islets, on the south side of the entrance, 5^ cables distant from
the shore, are small, rocky, and about 40 feet high ; foul ground exists
among them, and in entering the inlet a vessel should not approach their
west side nearer than 4 cables.

Shelter island, just within the entrance of the inlet on its south
side, is about half a mile in extent, 300 feet high, with a summit at each
end covered with a few stunted trees ; some rocks extend a short distance
from its east and west sides, but the north shore is steep-to. The anchorage
on its east side is about one-third of a mile in extent, with from 10 to 13
fathoms, well sheltered, but the bottom is irregular ; the entrance to it,
round the north-east side of the island, is less than one cable wide in the
narrowest part. About one cable from the north-east point of Shelter is
Bai'e islet, 15 feet high, which on entering the anchorage should be passed
close to on its east side.

Between Shelter island and the north entrance point of the inlet is a
heavy confused sea, which is dangerous for sailing vessels, as the wind
generally fails there. . r-

DirectiOUS. — Entering Klaskish inlet from the eastward and intend-
ing to anchor in the anchorage on the east side of Shelter island,
do not bring cape Cook to the southward of S.S.E. ^ E., till Leading
cone, a remarkable summit at the head of the inlet about 500 feet high,
comes in line with Small islet on the north side of entrance bearing
N.E. by E. ^ E.,t which mark will lead into the inlet well north of the
Clerke reefs and Surge islets ; when abreast the latter, haul a little to the
eastward, so as to enter midway between Small islet and Shelter island ;
pass within one cable east of Bare islet off the latter's north-east point,
and anchor in 13 fathoms with the extremes of Shelter bearing N.W. by
W. i W. and S.W. i W. ' - ^ * *

Caution. — The entrance to this anchorage is intricate and narrow ;
and unless unavoidably necessary, no vessel larger than a coaster should
attempt it, as a furious sea rages all around the outer parts.

Ship rock, lying 7^ miles N. by W. from cape Cook, 2 miles distant
from the shore in the centre of Brooks bay, and midway between Klaskish

* See Admiralty plan : — Klaskish inlet, No. fi90 j scale, m
t -S^e View B. on Admiralty chart No. 590.

2 ' inches.

OHAP.vxn.] KLASKISH AND KLASKINO INLET. 335

and Klaskino inlets, is of small extent, and has from 17 to 20 fathoms close
on its south and east sides ; the sea generally breaks very heavily over
it.

Leading mark.— Small islet in line with Leading cone N.E. by E. ^E.
leads 8^ cables south of it ; and Twenty-feet rock at the entrance of
Klaskino inlet, in line with lower part of the stripe on Red Stripe
mountain on the north shore of that inlet bearing N.N.E. | E., leads
2 miles north-west of it.

Tides. — It is high water, fall and change, in Klaskish inlet at 12h. Om. ;
springs rise 12 feet.

KLj&SKINO inlet,* the entrance to which is in the north
part of Brooks bay, 10 miles N. J W. from cape Cook, is nearly 6
miles long in a winding direction to the E.N.E. Numerous rocks lie o/F
the. entrance, but there is a safe though intricate passage through them ;
and there is also a good anchorage on the south side, 2 miles within the
inlet. The depths vary from 10 to 20 fathoms in the lower part of the
inlet, increasing gradually towards the head to 40 fathoms ; the inlet here
becomes narrow, with high and rocky shores, terminating in low land at
the head.

Nob point, the south entrance point of the inlet, is rocky, and
covered with a few stunted trees, and close to its outer part is a rocky
nob about 100 feet high. From Nob point a line of reefs above and
below water with deep water between them extends fully 1^ miles in a
W.N.W. direction.

Twenty-feet rock, 4 cables W.N.W. from Nob point, is bare and
20 feet above high water. It is conspicuous from the outside, and
there are 19 fathoms close to its north and west sides, but between it
and Nob point the passage is choked up with rocks ; the only channel
into the inlet being to the westward of the rock, between it and the
' Channel reefs.

1 Two rocks on which the sea breaks at low water lie to the southward of

I V the Channel reefs, and one mile distant from Nob point. The southern-

f most lies three-quarters of a mile S.W. \ W., from Twenty-feet rock.

* Channel reefs, the south-east part of which is 3^ cables W. by S.
from Twenty-feet rock, are an irregukr cluster of rocks -nostly under
water, extending in a westerly direction to the north-west siiore of Brooks
bay. There is deep water between them in many places, but the only safe
passage into Klaskino inlet upwards of 3 cables wide with deep water
is between their south-east part and Twenty-feet rock.

* See Admiralty plan : — Klaskino inlet, No. 590 ; scale, m = 2'() inches.

rtl

336

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. vin.

AnclLOrage island, in the middle of the inlet, about 2 miles
witliin the entranc(?, is of small extent and rocky ; some small islets extend
one cable from its north-west and south-east points. The anchorage
between the east side of this island and the shore is from 3 to 4 cables in
extent, and well sheltered, with from 9 to 10 fathoms water : the entrance
to it, round the south-east point of Anchorage island, is about one cable
wide in the narrowest part, with from 13 to 17 fathoms in the middle.

Between Twenty -feet rock and the entrance to the anchorage are several
dangers ; a rock 3 feet high lies S.W. | W. 8^ cabl-s from the south-east
poiiit of Anchorage island, and another 2 feet high 3 cables S.W. | S. from
the same point, and there is a reef which covers one cable W. by S. ^ S.
from the latter rock. These when entering the inlet must be passed to the
northward.

Above Anchorage island some rocks extend nearly across the inlet,
rendering it almost impossible for a vessel to go beyond them.

Red Stripe mountain, rising on the north side of entrance,
abreast Anchorage island, is a remarkable conical-shaped summit 2,200 feet
high, with a valley on either side of it; on its south part facing seaward
is a conspicuous red cliffy stripe or landslip, easily distinguished from the
outside ; the lower part of it in line with Twenty-feet rock, bearing
N.N.E. I E., leads into the entrance south of Channel reefs, and 2 miles
north-west of Ship rock.*

Directions. — Bound for Klaskino inlet, when outside Ship rock,
bring Twenty-feet rock in line with the lower part of the red stripe
on Red Stripe mountain bearing N.N.E. J E., and run boldly for the
entrance with that mark on, which will lead 2^ cables east of the eastern
patches of the Channel reefs; keep on this course till within 2 cables
of Twenty-feet rock, when haul a little to the northward, and pass it
on its north side at one cable's distance, after which steer about
N.E. by E. ^ E. for the centre or south part of Anchorage island,
passing one cable or so north of the rocks ofiE the south side of the inlet ;
when abreast the south-west point of the island, haul quickly to the
eastward, round the rocks off its south-east point within half a cable, and
anchor in from 9 to 10 fathoms midway between the east side of the
island and the main, with the extremes of the former beaiing N.W. and
S.W. by W. : a large vessel should moor. . . ^;,.

The entrance to Klaskino anchorage is even more intricate than that of
Klaskish, and should not be attempted by a stranger unless absolutely
necessary for safety.

Water. — Fresh -^aier may be procured at both these anchorages.

* See View A. on Admiralty chart No. 690.

CHAP. VIII.]

QUATSINO SOUND.

337

Three miles from Klaskino, in the north-west, part of Brooks buy, is a
large rivulet where boats may enter and find shelter in bad weather.

Lawn point, the north-west extreme of Brooks bay, lies 12 miles
N.W. by N. from cape Cook ; it is low, and some rocks extend more
than half a mile in an easterly direction from it, inside of which a
boat may find shelter : the sea breaks violently about this point, and
everywhere along the shores of Brooks bay.

The land in the vicinity of Lawn point appears very fertile, and lightly
timbered ; it rises gradually from the sea to a height of 1,900 feet. At
a distance of 3 miles from the point are from 24 to 30 fathoms, and a
vessel should keep a good offing.

Boat shelter. — Between the entrance to Klaskino inlet and Lawn
point is a deep bay, in which are several islets and reefs ; it is unfit for
anchorage, being opon to seaward, but at its head, north of May-day island^
there is good shelter for boats.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Klaskino inlet at 12h. Om. ;
springs rise 12 feet.

QUATSINO SOUND,* the north-westernmost of the deep inlets
on the outer coast of Vancouver island, is an extensive arm of the sea,
which penetrates the island in a north-easterly direction for upwards of
25 miles. At the entrance between Rsef point (on the south) and
Entrance island, it is nearly 6 miles wide, narrowing to less than one
mile at a distance of 5 miles within ; the sound then takes a north-easterly
direction, nearly straight for 13 miles, when it branches o£E in two arms,
one (South-east arm) extending to the south-east for 12 miles, and
terminating in low land. The other (West arm) lies to the northward, and
is connected with the sound by a straight narrow pass about 2 miles long ;
it is 22 miles long in an east and west direction, and the eastern extreme,
Rupert arm, is only 6 miles distant from Hardy bay on the north-east side
of Vancouver island ; the western part terminates within 12 miles of
San Josef bay on the outer coast. Just within the entrance of the
sound on the north side is Forward inlet, a much smaller armj about
6 miles long in a northerly direction, in which are the best anchorages in
the sound.

The shores of Quatsino sound are mostly high, and near the entrance
very much broken; there are several small islands within and along its
shores.

From the outside the entrance to Quatsino sound presents several
remarkable features, which render it easy to be made out; along its sonth
side are several rocks and small islands ; and on both sides of, and within

• See Admiralty plan, Quatsino sound, No. 570 ; scale, m = 2"0 inches.
A 17498. Y

fM.

338

vANCorvER island; west coast.

[chap. VIII.

the sound the land is high, some of the summits being very conspicuous.
Among these ar^ the Flattop and Entrance mountains to the northward of
the entrance, ftnd the Nose peak and Gap mountains inside ; the Nose peak
being easily distinguished from its sharp rocky summit.

The depths in the entrance, and from 3 to 5 miles outside, vary
from 30 to 70 fathoms, but within they deepen in many places to upwards
of 100 fathoms. There are several dangers along the south shore at the
entrance ; in the fairway are two very dangerous rocks, on which the sea
only breaks in heavy weather, and it requires great caution on the part of
the navigator to avoid them, when entering or leaving the sound.

Roof point, the south-east entrance point of the sound, 14 miles
N.W. by N. from cape Cook, and 1^ miles from Lawn point the
north-west extreme of Brooks bay, is low and rocky, but rises gradually
to a well-defined summit, 1,900 feet above the sea: the coast between it
and Lawn point forms a slight bay filled with a number of rocks extending
a considerable distance from the shore.

Boat COVO, into which flows a small stream (Culleet river) in which a
boat can enter, and find shelter in bad weather, is a small bight on the south
shore of the sound, 5^ miles North from Reef point ; the coast between the
two places is indented by several bays, and fringed by a barrier of reefs,
which extend in many places nearly one mile from the shore, and over
which the sea usually breaks very heavily.

Bold bluff, 7 miles north from Reef point, on the south side of the
sound, is, as its name implies, a bold rocky salient bluff rising suddenly
to upwards of 200 feet, when it slopes gradually to a summit 1,609 feet
high ; it may be safely approached to within a distance of one cable. At
this spot the sound contracts to less than one mile in breadth.

The shore between Boat cove and Bold bluflF is rocky, but apparently
steep-to, and clear of danger.

Surf islands, H miles S.S.W. from Bold bluff, and 3 miles within
the entrance to Quatsino sound, are a chain of small islands, nearly
one mile long in a north-west and south-east direction, some of which
are covered with a few stunted trees, and are about 40 feet above high
water ; a short distance from them are a number o^ rocks on which the
sea breaks, but 3 cables from their south and west sides are from 10 to
30 fathoms. Although there appears to be deep water between these
islands and the east side of the sound, it is not advisable to use that
passage, as it has not been sufficiently examined. .

Entrance island, 5^ miles N.W. ^ N. from Reef point, at the
north-west entrance point of the sound is small and rocky, about 140 feet

CHAP. VIII.]

QUATSINO SOUND ; FORWARD INLET.

339

high, and covered with a few stunted trees. It is steep-to on its soiitli-east
side, which may be approached to 2 cables distance ; to the northward
of it is a narrow boat pass into tlie sound, about one cable wide, but filled
with rocks.

DEnger rocks, on the north shore of the entrance, nearly in the
fairway, are two very dangerous pinnacle rocks, of small extent, half a
mile distant from each other in a north-west and south-east direction, and
steep-to on all sides. The south Danger rock is awash at low water, and
lies one mile east from the south extreme of Entrance island ; the north
Danger rock is 7 cables distant fi-om the same island, and breaks at low
water ; there is deeji water between the rocks. The sea very seldom breaks
on these rocks, great caution is therefore required, when entering or leaving
the sound, to avoid them.

Leading marks. — Pinnacle it'let in line with the east point of Low
islets, in Forward inlet, bearing N.N.W. J W., leads nearly 4 cables west
of Danger rocks, and midway between the north rock and Entrance island.

Robson island in Forward inlet, open north of Entrance Mount point
bearing N.W. by W. if W., leads 3 to 4 cables cast of Danger rocks ; and
Village islet, on the east side of Forward inlet, just touching Brown
point bearing N.W. kads about three-quarters of a mile east of thom, and
midway between them and the Surf islands.*

Bold bluff in line with the gap in the centre of of Surf islands,
bearing N. by E. f E., leads nearly 8 cables south-east of the south
Danger.*

Between the Danger rocks and Surf islands, the passage is 1^ miles
wide, and clear of danger.

FORWARD INIiET, on the north side of the sound, is one
mile wide at the entrance, and about 6 miles long; it first takes a north-
westerly direction for 2 miles from its outer part, then turning to the
N.N.E. for 4 miles it contracts in breadth, and becomes shoal at the head,
terminating in large salt-water lagoons ; in the upper part it contracts
to less than a quarter of a mile in width in some places : there are
two anchorages within it, North and Winter harbours, the former easy
of access to sailing vessels, and both are very secure and well sheltered.

Entrance and Flattop mountains, on the west side of Forward inlet
near the entrance, are very conspicuous objects from seaward ; the former
is 1,275, and the latter 960 feet high.

Pinnacle islet, three-quarters of a mile north of Entrance island
and 2 cables distant from the south-west entrance point of Forvmrd inlet.

* See Views on Admiralty chart No. 570.

y 2

340

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[CIIAI*. viu.

18 a fimall jaggod roc^ about 40 feet high, with a few trees on its Biimmit.
There are 15 fathoms at one cable's distance from its east side.

A shoal patch of 8 fathoms lies in the fairway to the inlet, G cables
E.N.E. from Pinnacle islet ; any vessel may go over it.

RobSOn island, in the bend of Forward inlet on the west side, 1^
miles from Pinnacle islet, is about half a mile in extent, and 385 feet high ;
its shores are rocky, but, at a distance of one cable, free from danger on its
north and east sides. Between it and the west shore is a narrow passage
of 2 to 5 fathoms water.

Low islets, 4 cables south-east from Robson island, are small wooded
islands which are steep-to on all sides.

Village islet. — A small village is situated on the east side of
Forward inlet abreast Eobson island, and close off it is Village islet, a small
bare islet about 40 feet high, which is rather conspicuous.

Bare islet, lying off the north-east entrance point to Forward inlet, is
about 12 feet high, and steep-to on the outside; it is 1^ cables distant
from the shore, but the passage inside is only fit for a boat.

Burnt hill, 1,095 feet high, just over Brown point, the north-east
entrance point of Forward inlet, is remarkable from the southward, being
bare of trees and cliffy on'its south side ; one mile north-east from it is Nose
peak, another conspicuous summit, 1,730 feet high, with a bare rocky top.

NORTH HARBOUR, which lies to the north-west of Eobson
island, in a bight on the west side of Forward inlet, is a snug and secure
anchorage, about 4 cables in extent, with from 4 to 6 fathoms. The entrance
is 3 cables wide, rendering the harbour easy of accep'' to sailing vessels ;
it is perhaps the best anchorage within the sound, and from being only

4 miles within the entrance is very convenient. Browning creek, in
its west part, extends 1^ miles to the westward, and is very narrow, with
from 2 to 5 fathoms water in it, terminating in a shallow basin, dry at low
water.

Observatory rock, which lies on the north side of the entrance to
North harbour, is a small bare rock, connected at low water to the mainland.

WINTER HARBOUR comprises that part of Forward inlet
w*hich runs in a N.N.E. direction, and is a capacious anchorage with from

5 to 11 fathoms. Its shores are low and bordered by a sandy beach, and
the harbour becomes shoal at a distance of one mile from the head ; its
breadth varies from 2 to 6 cables.

Log point, just outeide the entrance to this harbour on the east side,
is low, and bordered by a sandy beach; to the southward of it, and extend-
ing 4 cables from the shore, is the New bank, with 3^ fathoms on the shoalest

oiiAi-. VIII.] QUATSINO SOUND ; KOPllINO nARJJOUR.

341

part, nnd contrnctiug the breadth of the entrance passage to the harbour to
less than one cable between it and a shoal spit exteudiug from the opposite
shore ; but by keeping a little over to the west side when abreast North
harbour, a vessel may avoid this bank, and enter Winter harbour without
danger.

At the narrowest part of the entrance to Winter harbour, above Log
point, on tho west side, is a low grassy point bordered by a sandy beach
which is steep-to, there being 16 fathoms within half a cable of it.

Pilley shoal of 3 fathoms, on the north side of Quatsino sound, is
of small extent, steep -to on tLe outside, and marked by kelp. It lies
1^ cables distant f im the shore, and one mile west from Bold bluff.

Boat GOV©, on the north side of the sound, is of small extent, with
5 fathoms inside ; it would afford good shelter for a small craft ; the north
shore of Quatsiro sound between it and Bare islet is rocky and very much
broken.

Bedwell islets, lying 5J miles within the entrance, off a projecting
point on the north side of the sound, are of small extent, wooded, and
separated from the shore by a very narrow boat pass, which is conspicuous
fiom the entrance.

Monday shoal, at 3 cables north-east of them, has 4 fathoms on it,
is marked by kelp, and steep-to on the outside : eastward of Bedwell islets
no sea is ever experienced in the sound.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Quatsino sound tit
11 hours ; springs rise about 11 feet.

KOPRINO HARBOUR,* 8 miles within the entrance, in the
centre of a bay on the north side of Quatsino sound, is a perfectly land-
locked but small anchorage, affording room for one or two ships to lie
moored within. It lies to the northward of Plumper island, which is about
half a mile in extent, low, wooded, and steep-to on all sides, there being a
good passage on either side of it into the harbour.

Dockyard island, in the ^vest part of the harbour, mid-way between
Plumper island and the north shore, is small, but may be approached close
to ; a ledge, the greatest depth on which is 4 fathoms, connects it with
Plumper island.

Mud bank, about l^ cables north-east from Dockyard island, in the
middle of the harbour, is a small patch of 15 feet; there is good anchorage
one cable south of Dockyard island, in 14 fathoms.

Wedge island lies at the eastern limit of the anchorage, about one
cable north of Plumper island ; it is very small, and covered with a few

♦ See plan of Koprino harbour on Admiralty chart No. 570 j scale, »« = 6-0 inches.

312

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[chap. vui.

biislios, a lodge extendH a short dintAnce from it to tho westward ; there is
a deep passage close to on either side of it into th(? harbour.

Observatory islet, ftt tie north-east extreme of the harbour, is bare
and about 12 feet high; it is ? cables nortli of Plumper island, and 3 cables
from the north shore, connected to the latter by a bank which dries at low
water.

East passage, leading into Koprino harbour, eastward of Plumper
island, is holf a mile wide at entrance, narrowing to 2 cables at its termina-
tion, is clear of danger, and the depths in it vary from 15 to 30 fathoms.

East cove, the head of the bight between Observatory islet and
Prideaux point in tho north-east part of East passage, appears to afford a
good anchorage in G to 10 fathoms; but the entrance to it has hardly
been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used by a largo vessel.

Prideaux point, the east entrance point of East passage, is low,
bordered by a sandy beach, and may be approached to a distance of one
cable. The north shore of the sound from Prideaux point takes a general
north-easterly direction for 9 milos to Coffin islet, at the entrance of Hecate
cove. It is bordered by a sandy beach, and is clear of danger at the
distance of one cable, except in tht vicinity of the Percy ledge, which lies
6 miles fiom Prideaux point, is 2 cfibles from the shore, and has 4 fathoms
on its outer edge.

From Bold bluff the south shore of the sound runs nearly parallel to
the northern for 13 miles in a north -easterlj' direction. It is high
and indented by two bays of considerable size, and some small creeks
none of which afford anchorage. In Koskeomo bay, at 2 miles within
Bold bluff, is a native village of considerable size. ,. .. ;

Village islands, at the east extreme of Koskeemo bay, are of small
extent and low ; their outer part is steep-to. '

Brockton island, lying 2 cables from a projecting point on the
south side of the sound, 7 miles north-east from Bold bluff, is nearly half a
mile long, but narrow ; its west side is steep-to.

Limestone island, 15 miles within the entrance, and in the centre
of the sound, is the largest island in the sound, and shaped somewhat
like a crescent, nearly 3 miles long, and about three-quarters of a mile
wide in the broadest part. Its shores are rocky, but clear of danger, and
the island is of moderate height ; Quiet cove, on its north-west side, is
small, and affords anchorage for small craft. ^. ^.^

Foul islets, lying midway between Holloway point, the south-west
extreme of Limestone island, and the south shore of the sound, are small,

CHAP. Tin.] QUATSINO SOUND; SOUTH-EAST ARM, &C. 313

and ubout 3 cables in extent in an east and west direction. There is a
clear deep pasHuge, about 2 cables wide, on either side of them ; the south
passage is to be preferred.

Single islet, half a mile north-eastward from Ilolloway point, and

3 cables north of the Foul islets, is low and bare, but may bo approached
to the distance of one cable.

EultuS cove, abreast Limestone 'aland, on the south side of the
sound, is about half a mile in extent, with irregular soundings of from
12 to 25 fathoms ; it affords no anchorage, except for small craft.

SOUTH-EAST ARM, the entrance to which is one mile east of
Limestone island and 18 miles within the entrance of the sound, is 10 miles
long in a south-easterly o" fion, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to
one mile. Its shores are gei ,i lUy high and rugged, but terminate in low
land at the head ; the deptlis in it vary from 30 to 70 fathoms, and there
is no anchorage, except i r sma'l craft; a bank dries off 2 cables from the
head, and close to its edge is \ '"> fnllioms.

Mist rock, 5 miles ■ itbin the entrance, and 4 cables from the east
shore, is of small extent, and covers at half flood : it is the only danger in
the south-east arm, but by keeping in mid-channel or well over to the west
shore, a vessel will clear it.

Atkins cove, on the east side of entrance to the South-east arm, is

4 cables long in a northerly direction, and one cable wide, with from 5 to 7
fathoms ; there is room for a small vessel to anchor in it, but the cove is
open to the south-east.

Whitestone point, at the separation of the tAvo arms at the head of
Quatsino sound, is a rocky point of moderate height, and lies three-quarters
of a mile north-east from Limestone island, and. abreast Coffin islet. Bull
rock, which covers, and is marked by kelp, lies 3 cables south from
Whilstone point, and 2 cables distant from the shore. Between Atkins
cove and Whitestone point the coast is rocky, and should not bo approached
nearer than 3 cables. ^

HECATE COVE,* on the north shore about one mile north-east
of Coffin islet, indents the shore about two-thirds of a mile in a north-
westerly direction, is from 2 to 3 cables wide, and aflPords good anchorage
near the centre in 9 to 11 fathoms. The entrance is clear of danger, but
in the inner \ rt of the cove, near the north side, are some shoal patches,
marked by kelp, with ruiy 11 feet water in some parts ; the shores of the
cove are moderately high, and bordered by a sandy beach.

♦ S«e plan of Hecate cove on Admiralty chart No. 570 ; scale, m =• 6 • inches.

844

VANCOUVER island; west coast.

[chap. vni.

This cove ie convenient for steamers or small craft, and a vessel ought
to :richor in about 11 fathoms, with the eutrance points bearing South and
S.E. ; a large vessel should moor.

Kitten islEndi at the east side of entrance, is steep-to on the outside.

Round island, (Quatislie,) nearly in mid-channel, about one
mile east of Hecate cove and just south of Quatsino narrows, is small,
and of moderate height ; there is a clear passage between it and the
north shore, but the one south of it is filled with rocks. At 3 cables
south-east from it is Bight cove, of mo<lerate extent, with from 8 to
10 fathoms inside, but as the tide runs strong off the entrance^ and there
are also some rocks, it is only recommended for small craft.

Quatsino narrows, 20 miles inside the sound and connecting it with
the Rupert and West arms, are 2 miles long in a northerly direction, and
1-^ cables wide in the narrowest part ; the depths in it vary from 12 to 20
fathoms, its shores are high and rocky, but at half a cable's distance clear
of danger. Turn point, at the south-west extreme of the narrows, is bold
and cliffy, the coast turning sharply round it to the northward ; a short
distance off it are some strong tide rips. Between this point and Hecate
cove the coast is broken, but clear of danger at the distance of one cable.

Tides. — The tide runs through these narrows at a rate of from 4 to C
knots, and the streams turn shortly after high and low water.

Philip and James points, at the north extreme of the narrows,
are bold and steep-to ; off the latter, which lies on the east side, is a small
island.

RUPERT ARM, to the north-east of Quatsino narrows, is 5 miles
long in a north-easterly direction, and nearly one mile wide ; its shores are
high and clear of danger ; its head terminates in low land, and a bank
dries off it for 2 cables. The depths in this arm vary from 80 to 30
fathoms, nhoaling gradually to the head, off which a vessel may anchor,
in 14 to 17fathottiS, a short distance from the edge of the bank.

Marble creek, which lies half a mile east of the narrows, at the
entrance of Rupert arm, is of small extent, and affords anchorage in from
5 to 6 fathoms ; off its head a sand-bank extends 4 cables, and midway
up the creek are some small islets on either side : if intending to anchor
pass between and go just inside them.

From Rupert arm to Hardy bay, on the north-east side of Vancouver
island, is a distance of only 6 miles, and a trail exists between the two
places, much frequented by the natives for trading purposes f o fort Rupert,
which was until lately a station of the Hudson Bay Company.

I V

CHAP. VIII.] QUATSINO SOUND ; RUPERT AND WEST ARMS. 345

Hankin point, abreast Quaisino narrows on the north side, u
bold and rocky ; it separates the Rupert from the West arm.

WEST ARM trends in a westerly direction nearly ISf miles from
the north part of Quatsino narrows, and varies in breadth from 2 cables
to one mile. Its shores are mostly high and rocky ; the northern one is
indented by several small bays, and off it are some rocks and small islands.
The depths vary from 15 to 96 fathoms, shoaling gradually to the head,
and there are two anchorages, one at Coal harbour on the north side, and
the other at the edge of the bank extending from the head ; the former is
of moderate extent, and the best anchorage northward of the narrows.

Coal harbour, 2 miles from the narrows, on the north side of West
arm, is of square shape," from 3 to 4 cables in extent, and affords good
anchorage near the middle in from 12 to 14 fathoms. The shore is
bordered by a sandy beach, and at the head are some fresh-water streams.
This anchorage is easy of access for any vessel ; indications of coal have
been met with in this vicinity. It was at one time worked, to a small extent.

Pot rocks, which lie 2 miles west from Coal harbour, and 3 cables
distant from the north shore, are of small extent, and cover at three-quarters
flood ; there are 64 fathoms 3 cables south of them.

Straggling islands, about 5 miles from the narrows, are au
irregular group of small islands and rocks extending upwards of half a
mile from the north shore ; the depths among them and to the northward
are irregular, and a vessel in passing should not approach their south side
nearer than 2 cables ; just west of them on the uortii shore is a small patch
of swampy ground, through which flow some fresh-water streams, and a
bank extends one cable from it. ' .

The West arm gradually decreases in breadth to the westward of the
Straggling islands, and the shores on both sides at the distance of one cable
are clear of danger ; the head terminates in low land, and a bank extends
upwards of 2 cables from it ; close to the outer edge of the latter are from
12 to 14 fathoms, where a vessel may anchor.

Directions. — Entering Quatsino sound from the southward, give
Reef point, its south-east entrance point, an offing of about 2 miles, and
steer North till Bold bluff comes in line with the gap in the centre of the
Surf islands, bearing N. by E. J E.,* {see page 339), which mark kept on
will lead south-east of Danger rocks ; when the west side of Uobson island
comes open north of Entrance mount point in Forward inlet,* bearing
N.W. by W. If W., or Village islet, on the east side of that inlet, is just
touching Brown point, bearing N.W.,* a vessel will be well east of these
rocks. If bound up the sound, round the north end of Surf islands at

• See Views on Admirultv chart No. 590.

:;1.': VANCOUVER ISLAND; WEST COAST. [chap. vui.

a distance of about half a mile, or if going to Forward inlet, steer about
N.W. by W., taking care not to shut in the south side of Robson island with
Entrance mount point, until Bedwell islets come open north of Bold bluff
bearing N.E., when she will be well north of the Danger rocks. Pass from
one to 2 cables oflf the east sides of the Low islets and Robson island,
and rounding the north point of the latter, at the same distance, enter
North harbour, and anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms near its centre.

If intending to anchor in Winter harbour, when abreast the north part
of Robson island, steer N.N.W., keeping well over to the west shore
to avoid the New bank (see page 340), and when past it enter the
harbour in mid-channel, anchoring in 11 fathoms about half a mile north
of Grass point. Winter and North harbours are the best anchorages in
the sound, and easily available for sailing vessels, which could beat into
the latter, and from being situated near the entrance their position is
very advantageous.

Bound to Koprino harbour, which can only be entered by steamers or
sailing vessels with a fair wind, round the north-west point of Surf
islands at about half a mile distance, and steer up the sound in mid-
channel until abreast the harbour. If in a large vessel, go through
the East passage, keeping from one to 2 cables from Plumper island ; enter
the anchorage close to on either side of Wedge island, and moor imme-
diately the vessel is west of it (with anchors north and south) ; a vessel
may also ent«r by West passage, and anchor in 14 fathoms south of
Dockyard island.

When navigating the sound to the eastward of Koprino harbour the
chart is indispensable, but a mid-channel course is everywhere free of
danger ; sailing vessels of any size should not, however, go eastward of
that harbour, as the anchorages beyond are rather difficult of access for
them. If wishing to anchor in Hecate cove, enter it in mid-channel,
passing north of Limestone island, and moor immediately the vessel is
inside the entrance points ; the tide runs from one to 3 knots abreast the
entrance, and should be guarded against. ' --

Going through the Quatsino narrows, keep well over to the north shore,
pass north of Round island, round Turn point close to, and guarding
against tide, steer up the narrows in mid-channel ; these narrows should
only be attempted at slack water or with a favourable tide, unless in a
full-powered steamer. The best anchorage north of the narrows is Coal
harbour, and if wishing to go there, a north-west course for 2 miles
from the narrows will lead to its entrance, and a vessel may anchor near
the centre in from 12 to 14 fathoms. In navigating the West arm keep
well over to the south shore, when in the vicinity of the Pot rock and
Straggling islands. .^. . ..^ ^^ . ,i;.=;..i> • ■-,' - 7 . v « '~

CHAP. Vlll.]

QTJATSINO SOUND; DIRECTIONS.

347

Ji'rom. westward. — Entering Quatsino sound from the westward,
keep an offing of about 2 miles, till Entrance island bears N.E. or N.E.
by N., when steer to pass about 2 cables east of it, but not further off.
When abreast it haul to the northward, bringing Pinnacle islet in line with
the east side of Low islets, bearing' N.N.W. J W., and steer up with that
mark on till Bedwell islets come well open north of Bold bluff, bearing
N.E., when enter Forward inlet, or proceed further up the sound, as before
directed.

If, tvhen coming from the southward, Pinnacle and Low islets can
be well made out, a vessel by keeping the former in line with the
east part of the latter, bearing N.N.W. | W., will pass 3 cables west
of the Danger rocks ; but as a rule it would be more prudent to pass
eastward of them.

If the weather be so thick that the marks for clearing the Danger rocks
cannot be distinguished, a vessel, if able to distinguish Entrance island,
may enter the sound by steering for it on a N. by E. or north-easterly
bearing ; pass close to its east side, and haul to the northward when
abreast it; by keeping half a mile on that course, she will be well
clear north-west of the Danger rocks, and may proceed anywhere up the
sound. On a clear night in fine weather a vessel may also enter in the
above manner.

There is room, with a steady breeze, for a smart working vessel to beat
into the sound to the southward and eastward of Danger rocks, though
without previous knowledge of the place it would be rather hazardous to
attempt it. If obliged to do so, when standing to the northward towards
the Danger rocks, tack when Bold bluff comes in line with the centre of
the northernmost (wooded) Surf island, bearing N.N.E. ^ E. ; and in
standing to the south shore, tack when Bold bluff comes in line with the
south-east extreme of the Surf islands bearing N, | E. or N. by E. When
the south side of Robson island comes open north of Entrance mount point,
N.W. by W. \ W., she will be eastward of the Danger rocks, and may
stand further to the northward.*

Beating between Surf islands and Danger rocks, tack at about 3 cables
of the former ; and in standing towards the latter keep Robson island
open as befoVe directed, till Bedwell islets comes open north of Bold bluff,
N.E. ; if going to North harbour, when inside Forward inlet, guard
against the New bank.

The COAST of Vancouver island from Quatsino sound to cape Scott,
the north-west extreme of the island, takes a general W.N.W. direction ;
it is mostly rocky and iron-bound, indented by several bays, most of which

„,.,».... ,,.* Sue Views on Admiralty chart No. 570.

348

VANCOUVER ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

[chap. VIII.

are small, and from the projecting points some rocks extend in some places
nearly one mile from the shore. At a distance of 2 miles off are from 20 to
30 fathoms, sand and rock, deepening to 100 fathoms at 10 to 11 miles of!
shore ; to the southward of the Scott islands the 100-fathoms line does
not appear to extend more than 6 miles from them. ; .,

Caution. — When navigating between cape Scott and Quatsino sound
do not approach the shore nearer than 2 miles.

Ragged point, 3 miles from the north entrance point of Quatsino
sound, is a rocky, rugged point, of moderate height, with 12 fathoms at
half a mile outside it, Opeii bay, which lies just inside it, affords landing
for boats in fine weather on its east side.

Tiie coast between Open bay and the enti'anco to Quatsino sound is high
and cliffy ; some rocks extend nearly one mile from it.

Top-knot point, 5 miles north-west of Ragged point, is low, with a
summit 300 feet high, shaped like a top-knot, just within it ; some rocks
extend half a mile to the southward from it.

Haft cove, 8 miles from Ragged point, is an open bight about one mile
in extent, and affords no shelter whatever.

Cape Palmerston, 1 1 miles north-west from Ragged point, is a bold
rocky point rising 'o a summit 1,422 feet high ; some rocks extend half a
mile from it.

SAN JOSEF BAY, the entrance to which is 14 miles north-web;
from Ragged point and 8 miles south-east from cape Scott, is an extensl
open buy, 3 miles deep in a north-easterly direction ; the breadth i
the entrance is nearly 2 miles, narrowing gradually towards the head.
Its .shores are high, and off the south side are several off-lying rocks;
the depths vary from 11 to 4 fathoms, but the bay affords no shelter
except with northerly Avinds, and should only be used as a stopping place
in fine weather ; generally a heavy sea sets into it, and a vessel caught
there with a south-westerly gale would inevitably go on shore. At the
south side of the head of the bay is a fresh-water stream of considerable
size, which boats can enter at high water, and find shelter in.

Directions. — Intending to anchor in the bay, bring the entrance to
bear N.E., and steer for it, anchoring in 7 or 9 fathoms near the middle,
with the entrance points bearing South and West. .ifr :■, • >; ' iifw^

Sea Otter cove, just west of San Josef bay, is about one mile
long in a northerly direction, and from 2 to 3 cables wide. There are
5 fathoms in the entrance, and from one to 3 fathoms inside it, also several
rocks; the shelter within is very indifferent, and the place only fit for
a coaster. Off its south-east entrance point, and separating the cove from

CHAP. Tin.] SAN JOSEF BAY. — CAPE RUSSELL.

349

San Josef bay, are some small islets extending nearly one mile from the
shore ; they are bare and yellow-topped, about 40 feet high, and
conspicuous from the north-west.

CAFE RUSSELL, 16 miles from Ragged point and immediately
westward of Sea Otter cove, is a remarkable headland 870 feet high, and
the outer part of a peninsula formed by Sea Otter cove and a small bay
north west of it ; some rocks, on which the sea breaks very heavily, extend
nearly one mile south from the cape.

From cape Russell to cape Scott the coast, from 500 to 600 feet high,
trends in a north-westerly direction and is indented by three open bays
which are nearly one mile deep but afford no shelter whatever.

< '

-r ' if' - *' •

It'

.t iA««i^ fff; ;i'(; 3^0 { ^t;:'4f.<> /i.i.'i ftw^'»'«'

■ii I.

CHAPTER IX.

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA (iNNER CHANNELS) — QUEEN
CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL.

.li r.i I . Variation in 1888. , % ;.; ■!

Queen Charlotte soun»L 24° 30' E, | Seaforth channel, 2.)° 30' E.

I • I .-.•.,-.)

The Inner channels, herein described, of the seaboard of British
Columbia afford smooth water, together with anchorages at suitable
distances, for vessels of moderate length.

These channels, therefore, offer facilities to steam vessels for avoiding
the strong gales and thick weather so frequently met with in Hecate
strait. They are also available for fore-and-aft schooners, when
navigating between Vancouver island and Alaska.

Unless directed to the contrary, the mid-channel course is recommended
to be kept when navigating these inner waters.

CAFE CAUTION (Ka klees la), the north-west entrance point
of Queen Charlotte sound, is of moderate height and level, the tops of the
trees being about 200 feet above the sea ; the shore is white, and of granite
formation, with a few rocks off it ; the land north-east of the cape rises
gradually in a distance of 5 miles to Coast nipple, 1,350 feet high,
2 miles to the eastward of which lies mount Robinson, 2,100 feet high.*

Soundings. — in a south-westerly direction, from cape Caution, at
a distance of 3 cables there is a depth of 9 fathoms, rocky bottom ; at
one mile, 16 fathoms ; at IJ miles, 43 fathoms, white sandy bottom ; thence
for 7 miles in the same direction the average depth is 70 fathoms, rocky
bottom. At 10 miles S.W. by W. from the cape and 2f miles S.E. ^ S.
from Danger shoal, the water shoals to 40 fathoms dark sand, and again
deepens to 80 and 90 fathoms a short distance to the southward.

Cape Caution is situated in latitude 51° 9' 39" N., longitude 127° 48' 5" W.

SEA OTTER GROUP,! consisting of several dangerous rocks,
islets, and shoals which cover a space of about 12 miles in extent north and

* See \dmiralty charts: — Vancouver island, ?ind views, No. 1,917 ; scale, m = 0' 15 of
an incb. Cape Caution to port Simpson, southern portion, No. 1,923 b ; scale, m = 0- 25
of an inch.

•j- See Admiralty chaft : — Approaches to Fitzhugh and Smith sounds, No, 2,448 ;
scr'j, m = l'0 inch.

CHAP. IX.]

CAPE CAUTION. — SEA OTTER GROUP.

351

south and 10 miles in an east and west direction, lies at a distance of 6 or
7 miles from the seaboard of British Columbia, fronting the coast between
capes Caution and Calvert.

Danger shoal, on which the sea is reported to break in heavy
weather, is the southernmost outlying danger of Sea Otter group, and lies
W. by S. i S. 10^ miles from cape Caution ; near the centre of this shoal
a depth of 9 fathoms, rocks and stones, was obtained, with 22 fathoms
close around. Shoaler water probably exists. ■ .--

Virgin rocks, near the western limit of the group, consist of three
white rocks, the largest of which (50 feet high), lies N.W. by W. ^ W.,
7^ railea from Danger shoal, and West 17 miles from cape Caution. South-
ward of these rocks the 30-fathom line is 4 miles, and in a westerly
direction it is 6 miles distant : rounding the rocks a vessel should not stand
into less than 30 fathoms. f -. , .j •, • - . >.

Watch, rock, 74 feet high and black, lies uear the northern limit of
the group, 7^ miles N. J E. from Virgin rocks. The rock is steep- to.

Pearl rocks, the northernmost of Sea Otter group, comprise
several rocks above and below water, extending 1^ miles in a north-west
and south-east directioi. ; the largest rock (15 feet high) lies E. by N.
3 miles from Watch rock, and the south-east rock, on which the sea always
breaks, lies one mile S.E. by E. from the largest rock ; there are 15 to 31
fathoms water, close-to on the north side of Pearl rocks ; and 70 to 80
fathoms just eastward of them.

Devil rock, the north-eastern outlying danger, lies 1^ miles N.E. ^ E.
from the largest Pearl rock ; and nearly 3 miles S.S.W. ^ W. from Sorrow
islands. The sea seldom breaks on Devil rock, and there is apparently
deep water close around. There are from 80 to 40 fathoms between the
rock and cape Calvert.

New patch, on which the sea generally breaks, is nearly 2 miles in
extent, and lies 4^ miles S. by E. from the largest Pearl rock. ■ : . j

Channel reef, the easternmost danger of Sea Otter group, has about
6 feet over it at low water ; from the centre of this reef, Table island, at
the entrance of Smith sound, bears E. by N. ^ N. 4| miles, and Egg island
E. \ N. 4y^^ miles. The sea seldom breaks on Channel reef, and there are
60 fathoms close eastward of it.

Hannah rock, the south-easternmost outlying danger, on which the
sea nearly always breaks, is situated about 2J miles south of Channel
reef ; Hannah rock is awash at high water, and from its centre, cape
Caution bears E. -^ S. 8 miles, Egg island N.E. by E. 5 miles, and Danger
shoal S.S.W. 4 W. 4t-V miles.

352 Q. chahlotte sound to seaforth channel, [ctap. ix.

Clearing mark. — The south extremes of Egg and Table islands in
line, bearing N.E. J N. leads clear to the south-eastward of Danger shoal
and all other dangers on the south-east side of Sea Otter group.

Caution. — Dangerous rocks have been reported as lying in a
S.W. by S. direction, 5 miles from Danger shoal, and occupying a space of
2^ miles in diameter ; but their existence is doubtful.

SOUTH PASSAGE, leading to Smith and Fitzhugh sounds
from the southward, lies between cape Caution and the south-east limit of
Sea Otter group, where it is about 7 miles broad, with irregular depths
varying from 34 to 74 fathoms. False Egg ii^land, its own breadth open
west of Egg island, bearing N. ^ W., leads through South passage, nearly
in mid-channel.*

Blunden bay, a slight bena in the coast between cape Caution and
Neck point, at 1^ miles N.W. ^ N. from the former, is about one mile wide
at its entrance, and nearly one mile deep. Indian cove, which lies in the
northern part of this bay, affords good shelter for boats, it is the
rendezvous for Indians on their canoe voyages, when passing between
Queen and Fitzhugh sounds.

Hoop reef. — From Neck point the coast trends N. by W. 2 miles to
Good Shelter cove, midway between which lies Hoop reef, about one-third
of a mile from the shore ; this reef is three-quarters of a mile in extent
north-west and south-east, and one-quarter of a mile broad.

Soiltb. Iron rock on which the sea seldom breaks, lies three-
quarters of a mile to the westward of Hoop reef, and nearly 1| miles
N.W. i W. from Neck point ; there are 35 fathoms close to, on the north
sule of the rock, and 25 fathoms in the channel between if and Hoop
reef.

North. Iron rock, which dries 7 feet, lies nearly in tlie fairway of
Alexandra passage, three-quarters of a mile N.N.W. J W. Irom South
Iron rock ; there are 7 to 9 fathoms close to, and no bottom at 40 fathoms
within a quarter of a mile of North Iron rock.

Clearing marks. — False Egg island in line with West rock off
Table island, bearing N. by W. ^ W., leads 4 cables west of South and
North Iron rocks. The west extreme of Surf islet, and the small islands
near the south point of Shower island in line bearing N.E. by N., leads
through Alexandra passage, between North Iron and Egg rocks.

EGG ISLAND, immediately fronting Smith sound, and standing
boldly out from the coast, is the prominent landmark between Goletas
cl}annel and Fitzhugh sound. The island is 280 feet high, covered with

• See View A on Admiralty chart No. 2448.

CHAP. IX.]

EGG ISLAND. — SMITH SOUND.

363

trees, and is remarkable for its egg-like shape ; it lies 5 miles N.W. \ N.
from cape Caution. From the south-west side of the island rocks extend
about one cable, and on the east side is a small island, which is separated
from Egg island by a narrow gully, giving the appearance of a split iu the
island itself, when seen from north or south.

Egg rocks, on the west side of Alexandra passage, are a cluster
of rocks lying nearly three-quarters of a mile W.N.W, from North Iron
rock, and about 2 cables S.S.E. from Egg island ; these rocks extend about
a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and S.S.E., the northernmost being 30 feet
high.

Denny rock, a sunken danger on which the sea seldom breaks, and
a source of danger in thick weather, lies a quarter of a mile W.S.W. from
the southernmost Egg rock. The west extreme of Ann island open
west of Egg island bearing N. by E. leads about 3 cables west of Denny
rock.

SMITH SOUND, 6 miles N.N.W. from cape Caution, is about
8 miles long N.E. and S.W., with an average breadth of 3^ miles ; the
entrance between Jones and Long points being 4^ miles across in a
N.N.W. direction. At 6 miles within the entrance, on either side of a
cluster of islands is a channel leading into Smith inlet. In almost every
part of the sound the depths are over 40 fathoms, and there is generally a
heavy swell. - , . .

The south-east shore of Smith sound, for a distance of 4 or 5 miles from
the entrance, is skirted by several small islands and rocks having deep
water close-to ; good shelter for boats will be obtained in a small cove
about a quarter of a mile north of Jones point, the south entrance point
of the sound ; also in a cove one mile south of Jones pointy abreast Egg
rocks.

The entrance to the sound is protected by a rocky plateau (Cluster reefs)
and several islands, islets, and rocks ; some above, and many under water,
prominent amongst them being Egg and Table islands. Access to Smith
sound may be had on either side of these islands.

Alexandra passage, tlie continuation of South passage into Smith
sound lies between Egg island and the south-eastern point of entrance ;
the narrowest part between Egg rocks and North Iron rock being 6 cables ;
here as elsewhere, however, the dangers are so steep to that the quiekett
use of the lead is enjoined. A general leading mark through Alexandra
passage (making allowance for heave of swell and tide) is the west
extreme of Surf islet in Une with the islets near the south point of
Shower island bearing N.E. by N. (tee page 352).

A 17408. z

364. Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. ix.

Beaver passage.*— The northern channel into Smith sound lies
between the islands skirting the north point of tho sound, and Wood and
White rocks, the northern and north-western extension of tho above-
mentioned plateau. In Beaver passage the bottom is irregular, 20 fathoms
being the least depth obtained. The course through tho passage is E. ^ S.,
the east extreme of Search islands just open of the west end of Surf islet
on that bearing, leads in midway between John reef (on south side) and
False Egg island (on north side) where the width is 6 cables. This western
entrance to the passage being the narrowest part ; with the usual amount
of sea or swell, good steerage, and vigilant attention are required.

White rocks, 35 feet high, and very conspicuous, lie in the west
entrance of Beaver passage, at 3J miles N. by W. { W. from Egg island,
and nearly one mile north-west of Cluster reefs.

John reef. — At 3 cables N.N.W. I W. from White rocks, and 7 cables
S. by W. I W. from False Egg island, lies John reef, which dries 3 feet at
low water, with 9 to 20 fathoms close around ; forming the north-western
danger, on th 3 south side of Beaver passage.

Leading mark. — The east extreme of Search islands just open
south of the west end of Surf islet (east side of Smith sound) bearing
E. ^ S., will lead 3 cables to the northward of John reef, and into Smith
sound through Beaver passage. i . -^ .m i •- > ic . ,r,!-

FALSE EGG ISLAND, resembling Egg island in shape, but
smaller, is 150 feet high ; it lies on the north side of Beaver passage, and
is the outlying landmark for this northern entrance to Smith sound.

James rock. — At about 3 cables W. { N. from False Egg island lies
James rock, the exact position of which is somewhat doubtful ; the sea
breaks on this rock at low water, and between it and False Egg island the
bottom is foul.

Clearing mark. — The west part of the large Canoe rock bearing
North, or in line with Quoin hill (on Penrose island) passes three-quarters
of a mile westward of James and John rocks, and leads clear (westward) of
all dangers at the entrance of Smith sound.

Table island, the largest of the group of islands occupying the
entrance to Smith sound, is about one mile long north and south, and half
a mile broad, with the tops of the trees 120 feet above the sea, nearly
flat. Table island when seen from abreast cape Caution appears to have
two summits.

A cluster of rocks, several of which are covered at low water, extend
half a mile from the west side of Table island, having 24 fathoms close to
the outer rock.

CBAF. U.]

LEAVER PASSAGE. — CLUSTER REEFS.

355

Ann island, about half a milo in extent, is separated from the uorlh
end of Table island by a channel (one cable wide in some pails) in which
ehelter will be found for boats.

CLUSTER REEFS, consisting of several rocky headg and shoal
patches, extend from Table island in a northerly and north-westerly
direction into the entrance of Smith sound.

George rock, on which the sea breaks at low water, is the north-
westernmost of the reefs, and lies one mile N. by W. J W. from Ann island.

Edward reef <lries 7 feet, and lies E.N.E. nearly three-quarters of
a mile from George rock.

Wood rocks, which are awash at low water, situated nearly a
quarter of mile E, by N. from Edward reef, consist of three rocky heads, nnd
are the uorth-easlernmost of Cluster reefs.

Bertie rock, with 3J fathoms water on it, lies near the eastern edge
of Cluster reefs ; from the centre of this rock the north-west extreme of
Ann island bears S.W. | S. distant nearly three-quarters of a mile.

Leading marks. — The west extreme of False Egg island in line
with Kelp head, bearing N. | W., leads to the westward ; and Limit point
midway between Long and Shower islands, bearing E. by N. | N., leads
to the northward of Cluster reefs.

LONG POINT, ^iie north-west point of Smith sound, lies E. by N.
three-quarters of a milp from False Egg island ; Tie island, which is nearly
a quarter of a mile in extent, lies close westward of Long point, and is
separated from it by a boat passage, in which there is a depth of 4 fathoms.
Ada rock, which is awash at low water, lies 2 cables S.S.E. ^ E. from Tie
island. ••.:;.

Brown island, on the north-ei.st side of Beaver passage, lies
half a mile S.E. ^ S. from Long point ; the island is 250 feet high, nearly
half a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and a quarter of a mile broad, with
17 to 23 fathoms close to its south point. Between the south part of
Brown island and Wood rocks, the eastern part of Beaver passage is
8 cables across with depths of 30 and 40 fathoms.

Surprise patch, on the north side of Smith sound, lies IJ miles
N.E. by E. I E. from the south extreme of Brown island; there is a
depth of 5 fathoms on this patch, 7 to 17 fathoms close around, and no
bottom at 40 fathoms 2 cables to the northward.

Judd rock, with less than 6 feet water on it, lies three-quarters of
a mile N.E. by E. J E. from Surprise patch, and three-quarters of a mile
W. by N. from Long island, the largest of the Barrier islands ; there is no
bottom at 40 fathoms in the vicinity of this rock.

356 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFOETII CHANNEL, [ciui-. ix.

Barrier islands, it the hcml of Smith sound, consists of two Inrgo
and Hcveral Hmivll islands covering a space of about 5 miles in extent N.E.
and S.W. Blakeney passage on the north, and Browning passage on the
Bouth .^ido of these islands leading to Smith inlet, are each about one mile
wide, with no bottom at a depth of 40 fathoms.

TAKUSH HARBOUR,* on the south shore of Smith sound,
6 miles within the entrance, and 1 \ miles east of Harrier islands, is 2 miles
long, north-east and south-west, and one mile broad ; and ia the only
anchorage to which a ship can resort for shelter when crossing Queen
Charlotte sound. Vessels of largo size can lie secure here.

The entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, with no bottom at
39 fathoms, decreasing to 22 fathoms, rocky bottom, in the centre of Ship
passage, which is 2^ cables wide, and is formed by Gnarled islands on the
west, and Fish rocks (dry 3 feet at low water) on the east side. There is
an Indian village here of the Quascilla tribe, but the lodges are wretchedly
constructed and the people miserably poor.

Petrel shoal, on which there is a depth of only 15 feet, situated one
cable S.S.E. ^ E. from the easternmost Gnarle' .sland, is the principal
danger in rounding into Anchor bight. : . ,,-

Ply basin, ^t the head of Takush harbour, perfectly land-locked, is
about one mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and one to 2 cables broad, with
2^ to 3 fathoms in the western and 6 to 8 fathoms in the eastern part of the
basin. The entrance to Fly basin, which is about one cable wide, is con-
tracted to a quarter of a cable by a shoal extending from the east entrance
point, with a rock (dry 2 feet at low water), and a patch of 9 feet on its
western edge ; between this shoal and the west entrance point there is a
depth of 9 fathoms. If required a small vessel could be taken into Fly basin.

Anchorage in Takush harbour will be found in 10 or 11 fathoms
mud, in Anchor bight, midway between Ship rock and Steep point, witli
the north extreme of Bull point in line with Anchor islands, bearing
N.E. by E. ;^ E., and east extreme of Bloxham point N. by E. ^ E.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Takush harbour at
Ih, Om. ; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 1 1 feet. - " > >?■' ^ ■

Directions. — When bound to Takush harbour, it is recommended to
pass through Browning passage, and, after passing North point, keep the
north extreme of Bright island a little open north of that point bearing
W. by S. ^ S., until Berry point (south side of Fly basin) appears mid-
way between the entrance points of Fly basin, S.E., which will lead
through Sbip passage ; and when Steep point is well open of the southern-

* See Admiralty plan : — Takush harbour, on sheet Approaches to FilKhugb «ncl
Smith BOund|,i^«i. 2,448; scale.m = 1*0 inch. . , ., > ...t, , ;..i -r .-h w>s.k.'u

^ev^i'inv. II miwpiijmn

CHAP. IX.] TAKUSn HARBOUR. — FITZUUGH SOUND.

357

most Gnnrlcd islnnd bearing W.S.W. u course may be steered for the
anchorage in Anchor bight, taking care to avoid the sboul gi'ound south of
Gnarled inland, pofl.sing midway between Anchor and Gnarled islands.
Good steerage in required hero, opecd should be proportionately slow, the
loads kept quickly going, and the water not shoaled to less than 7 fathoms.

SMITH INLET (Quas cillah), the continuation of Smith sound, is .
about 3 miles wide at its entrance, between eastern part of Takush harbour
and Dsoolish bay; it is said to extend nearly 25 mile, in an E.N.E,
direction, and at about 9 miles from its entrance contracts to a general
width of half a mile, the shores being formed of high, rocky precipices
covered with wood. The inlet has not been surveyed.

A good sized stream flows into Smith inlet up which the salmon run
in large numbers, and several canneries have been established in the
neighbourhood.

PITZHUGH SOUND, the entrance to which lies 5 miles north-
ward of Smith sound, is 39 miles long in a general N.N.W. and S.S.E.
direction, having an average breadth of 3 miles, with no known hidden
dangers throughout. The sJiores are mostly bold and rocky, the slopes
are wooded and steep, and the elevation of the peaks from 1,000 to 3,400
feet. The flood tide runs to the northward. The southern entrance to
Fitzhugh sound lies between Cranstown point, (the south-east entrance
point of Fitzhugh sound and south entrance point of Rivers inlet), and
cape Calvert the southern extremity of Calvert islnnd which bears from
Cranstown point W. ^ N. 5 miles.

The coast from Long point extends N.W. by N. 2\ miles to Kelp head,
from which Cranstown point bears N. by W. distant one mile.

The sound ut 4 miles north of Safety cove is contracted to 1^ miles in
width by Addenbrooke and adjacent islands, which lie on the east eide ; the
shores on both sides are, however, steep-to, and the depths in the channel
from 80 to 1 40 fathoms.

Canoe, Spur, and Paddle rocks He about one mile off'Kelp head,
and occupy a space of 1^ miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction ; the
space thus enclosed being foul, and more or less covered with growing
kelp. Canoe rock, the centre and most prominent of these rocks, is bare,
25 feet high, and stands boldly out from the coast, making a good point for
identitication.

Open bay, on the north-east side of Cranstown point, atTords anchorage
in 7 fathoms, about 2 cables from the shore during summer or with off"-shore
winds, but there is generally a swell in the bay, and it is only used by
local craft as a temporary anchorage. -

Cape Calvert, the south extreme of Calvert island, is the southero
termination of Cape range (2,000 feet high) ; it presents a broad face of

358 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [ohap. ix.

rocky shore extending in a north-east and south-west direction about 350
feet high, and covered with a thick growth of hemlock and pine trees.
At 2 miles north of the capo is Entry cone (1,200 feet high), which is
conspicuous, and forms a good, mark for recognizing Fitzhugh sound froir
the southward and westward ; cape Calvert is froi ted by the Sorrow
islands, which are steep-to, of granite formation, and covered with gnarled
and stunted trees ; between these islands and the cape fair shelter may
be found for boats in Grief bay (Telakwns), but during south-east or
south-west gales, a swell is more or less experienced, rendering landing
difficult and sometimes dangerous. Indians resort to Grief bay when
travelling, or engaged In hunting the sea otter. .

Cape Calvert is situated in latitude 51° 25' 0" N., longitude 127° 55' 0" W.

Directions for Fitzhugh sound from the south-
ward. — After passing cape James (Shadwell passage), a N.N.W. J W.
course should be steered (or for Entry cone) until past the Storm islands ;
when, Addenbrooke island open of, and the east shore of Fitzhugh sound
(oeyond) shut in by, cape Calvert bearing N.N.W. ^ W., will lead midway
between Channel reef and Egg island, and up to the entrance of Fitzhugh
sound. Allowance should be made for tidal streams : the flood sets to
the eastvvai'd into Queen Charlotte and Smith sounds with a velocity at
springs of nearly 2 knots.

Prom the westward. — ^Vessels from the westward, bound for
Fitzhugh sound, should use North passage, betv/een Sea Otter group and
Calvert island ; this passage is about 3 miles wide, with depths of 39 to
71 fathoms; Hedley patch with 9 fathoms water (possibly less) lies in the
west entrance to North passage, at 3| miles N. ^ W. from Watch rock.
(^Ve page 455.)

SCHOONER RETREAT* (Ka pi lish), on the east side of

Fitzhugh sound, is the name given to the anchorages among a cluster of
islands at the south-west end of Penrose island, which hero separates
Fitzhugh sound from Rivers inlet. The Retreat afEords a secure stopping
place, and with care may be safely entered by steam vessels. Karslake
point, (Joachic" island) its south-eastern entrance point, lies 7 miles
N.E. 4 N. from Sorrow island. The entrance to Schooner Retreat trends
in a N.N.E, direction from Karlake point, where it is about half a mile wide,
contracting to one cable between Sea bluff and Grey islets ; inside the
narrows to the eastward, it expands into Frigate bay.

Penrose island^ which forms the northern protection to Schooner
Retreat, lies in the mouth of Rivers inlet, a branch of the inlet passing on

* See Admiralty plan : — Schooner Retreat on sheet of plans of anchorages between
cap« Cfttttiou and Ogdeu cluumel« No. 1,901 ; Kol«, >n » 6*0 iaobes.

OTAP.ix.] FITZHUGH SOUND; SCHOONER RETREAT.

359

either side of it. Quoin hill, 880 feet high, is situated near its south end
about three-quarters of a mile inland.

Joachim island, the south-eastemmost and largest of the clustt ?
of islands at the south-west end of Penrose island, is 400 feet high, 1^ miles
long north and south, with an average breadth of half a mile ; the north
extreme of this island is separated from Penrose island by a boat passage.

Ironside island, tbe eastern part of which is 200 feet high, is the
next in size, and is separated from Sea bluff, the north-west point of
Joachim island, by the channel into Schooner retreat. Grey islets on the
west side of the channel into Schooner Retreat, lie close o£E the south-east
exti'eme of Ironside island.

Safe entrance, between Joachim and Ironside islands, three-quarters
of a mile wide, has in the middle from 8 to 17 fathoms water. On the west
side of Safe entrance, about 50 yards from Grey islets, lies a rock awash ;
from it shoal ground extends 1^ cables in a northerly direction, with
2 to 3 fathoms on it, and 4 to 10 fathoms close-to.

Comber rock, on which the sea often breaks, is an outlying danger
at the north side of Safe entrance ; the rock covers at three-quarters flood,
and lies three-quarters of a cable S. by W. from Surf point, the south-west
extreme of Ironside island. -

Frigate bay, the southernmost anchorage in Schooner retreat, is
about half a mile long north-east and south-west, and one-quarter of a
mile broad, with depths of 9 to 20 fathoms ; it is formed by the junction of
Joachim and Penrose islands on the south, east, and north, and is protected
on the west by Ironside and Maze islands. Centre islet, in the north part
of the bay, of small extent, lies one mile N. by E. ^ E. from Karslake point,
and 2J cables from the north end of Safe entrance ; a shoal with from
2 to 3 fathoms on it, extends for more than one cable from its east end in a
north-easterly direction towards Penrose island. There are several other
islets and rocks in the eastern pai't of the bay, from which a boat passage
leads into Rivers inlet. t^r ■ : '-

The best anchorage in Frigate bay will be found just within Safe
entrance, off a clean sandy beach, in 13 fathoms water, with the north-
east extreme of Ironside island bearing W. ^ S., and the north-west extreme
of Sea bluff S. \ W. Vessels should moor.

Maze islands are a cluster of small islands on an extensive shoal
projecting in a northerly direction from the north-east end of Ironside
island ; the north-east prong of this shoal extends nearly across to Penrose
island, leavin£- a narrow channel with 5^ to 9 fathoms water, which leads
from Frigate bay to Secure aaohorage.

360 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. ix.

Secure aiUChorEge, north-west of I'rigate bay, is about one-quarter
of a mile long north-east and south-west, and 1^ cables broad, with depths
of 9 to 1 1 fathoms ; it is protected from seaward by Ironside, Bird, and
Highway islands. Verney passage, leading to Secure anchorage from the
westward, between Ironside and Bird islands, is nearly half a cable wide
with 7 fathoms water in mid-channel, biU it is contracted to about 30 yards
by the shoals on either side, and is only saitable for small coasting vessels.
Chance rock, at the entrance between Folly and Stunted islands, renders
this passage dangerous.

G-a>leS. — During S.E. and S.W. galea the gusts are furious, but with
good ground tackle and care there is no danger in Schooner Retreat.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Schooner Retreat at
Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Directions. — Vessels bound to Schooner Retreat should at all times
use Safe entrance ; from the southward. Quoin hill (880 feet high) at the
south part of Penrose island, should be brought in line with the hill 200
feet high, on the east end of Ironside island bearing N.N.E,, this will
lead to abreast Karslake point, the west extreme of Joachim island,
when Safe entrance will be open. After passing Karslake point steer
very carefully and proceed at a moderate speed towards Bluff point
until Quoin hill is in line with Centre island bearing N. f E., which
will lead through Safe entrance in mid-channel, and to the anchorage in
Fi'igate bay.

The depths between Karslake point and Safe entrance are irregular,
varying from 24 and 30 fathoms abreast the point, to 40 fathoms no
bottom within 2 cables of the entrance, thence decreasing gradually to
\5 and 20 fathoms midway between Sea bluff and the southern Grey
islet.

RIVERS INLET, the shores of which have not been surveyed,
has an entrance on either side of Penrose island, but it is not known
whether they are clear of danger. The inlet takes a northerly direction
for about 8 miles, and then suddenly turns to the eastward and again to
the northward for nearly 4 miles, terminating in 3 arms, each about 5
miles long. The inlet was explored by Vancouver, who named it Rivers
Canal, and he says, " the land continued of a more moderate height further
" up than had been generally found to be the case, but where it branched
" off the shores were composed of high, steep, rocky mountains, and
^- affords no bottom in the middle at 80 fathoms."*

' the head of Rivers inlet is a settlement of Bella Bella Indians
numbering about 150, and a canning establishment named Owikino.

♦ See Vancouver's Voyages, Vol. ii., p. 378.

CBAF. IX.]

FITZHUGH sound; SAFETY COVE.

361

-I

AddenbrOOke island. — At about 8 miles N.W. from Karslake
point lie a group of islands off the eastern shore of the sound abreast an
unexplored opening. Addenbrooke, the most western of these islands,
extends westward into the sound narrowing the width of the passage
between it and Calvert island to about 1| miles.

SAFETY COVE* (Oat so alls), on the west shore of Fitzhugh
sound, 7 miles to the northward of cape Calvert, is about one mile
long W.S-W. and E.N.E., and nearly half a mile wide at its entrance,
to the westward of which the shores of the cove extend parallel to each
other at a distance of 2 cables apart ; there are depths of 9 to 17 fathoms
within half a cable of its shores, and 14 to 19 fathoms, soft mud, in
the middle of the cove ; a bank of sand and mud which dries, extends
3 cables from the head with 7 fathoms close to its edge. The shores, except
rear the head are high, rocky, and steep-to, rising to an elevation of about
1,000 feet. There is a conical peak at the head of the cove which bears
W. ^ S. from the middle of the entrance. The north entrance point of
Safety cove has two small islets lying off it, which are useful in
identifying the entrance, especially when coming from the northward.

Anchorage. — Good anchorage will be obtained in 13 fathoms, mud
bottom, ic the middle of Safety cove abreast a waterfall on the north shore.
Entering at night, a vessel should keep in the middle of the cove, and
keeping the lead going anchor as soon »t 17 fathoms are struck. During
south-east or south-west gales, strong gusts blow across the valley at the
head of this cove.

Fresh water. — The stream which flows into the head of Safety cove
affords excellent water, but is difficult to obtain by boats. The waterfall
on the north shore, unless in exceptionally dry weather (August and
September), will afford a good supply.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Safety cove, at Ih. Om. j
springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Kwakshua passage, between Calvert and Hecate islands, 7^
miles north of Safety cove, leads to the sea ; this passage is only partie'iy
examined ; it has, however, been used by coasting vessels. {See page 466.)

Hakai channel, oi miles north of Kwakshua, between Hecate
island and the smaller islands lying off the south side of Hunter
island, is an unexplored channel leading to sea. Vancouver reached the
sea by this passage in 1792. (See page 456.)

* See Admiralty plan : — Safety cotc, od sheet of plans of anchorages between cape
Caution and Ogden channel, Ko. 1,901 ; scale, m = 4*0 bches.

362 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [ohap. ix.

GOLDSTREAM HARBOUR,''* at the south-east entrance
point of Ilakai channel, affords good accommodation for small vessels;
it is about 2 cables long north and south, and 2 cables broad, with depths
of 7 to 15 fathoms, sand and mud. The entrance to this harbour from
Fitzhugh sound is through an intricate passage little over half a cable
wide, between the north extreme of Hecate island which forms the
south shore, and an island about one mile in extent which forms
the north side of Goldstream harbour. Foul ground marked by kelp,
extends one cable from Kelp point, the north entranca point of the harbour.
Evening rock, which dries 3 feet at low water springs, lies near the
middle of the passage about 2 cables within the entrance on the north
side of the channel ; it would, therefore, be advisable, in the absence of
good local knowledge, to place a boat near this rock (when covered) before
entering or leaving the harbour, and proceeding at slow speed, keep in
mid-channel, where there is a general depth of 6 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Goldstream harbour at
Ih. Om. ; springs rise 15 feet, neaps 12 feet. ,.., ,^- _,; ... ,*.;.,'

Nalau island, separating Nalau and Hakai passages is 4^ miles
long north and south, 3 miles wide, and 650 feet high ; it is situated between

Hunter and Hecate islands.

. .fy ,,')■':. r: ■

Nalau passagO, 4 miles north-westward of Hakai, is an unexplored

channel leading to sea. {See page 458.)

NAMU HARBOUR,! at the south entrance of Burke channel
and one mile south of Edmund point, on the east side of Fitzhugh
sound, lies N.E. by N. 6 miles from Nalau passage, and 15^ miles
N.W. by N. from Addenbrooke island; the intervening east shore of
Fitzhugh sound being abrupt and bold. This harbour is included between
Cliff and Kiwash islands to the west, and Plover island and the mainland
in other directions. It is three-quarters of a mile long, E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
and three-quarters of a mile broad, with depths of 20 to 28 fathoms ; at
its entrance lies Kiwash, a round island, 200 feet high, a quarter of a
mile in diameter, and covered with trees. South passage, between
Kiwash and Plover islands (15U feet high), the latter forming the south
entrance point of Namu harbour, is nearly half a mile wide, with 23 to 28
fathoms water ; North passage, between Kiwash and Cliff islands, on the
northern side of the harbour, is 3 cables wide with 35 to 18 fathoms
water. Namu harbour may be entered either by North or South passage.

* See Admiralty plan : — Goldstream harbour on sheet of plans of anchorages between
cape Caution anu Ogden channel. No. 1,901 ; scale, m = 6'0 inches.

t See Admiralty plan : — Namu harbour on sheet of plans of anchorages between cape
Caution and Ogden channel, No. 1,901 ; scale, m a 4*0 inches.

CHAP. IX.J

NAMU HAEBOUR. — BURKE CHANNEL.

363

I
'i

From the north side of Namu harbour two inlets indent the land for the
distance of about one mile ; the more western is named Harlequin basin,
the other, which is choked with rocks, is called Bock creek. At the mouth
of the latter ia Whirlwind bay, its entrance being marked by two small
islands, Sunday island to the northward and Clam island to the southward
one quarter of a mile apart. Two or 3 miles to the eastward of the harbour
a chain of mountains from 2,600 to 3,300 feet high extends in a N.N.E.
and S.S.W. direction for 6 miles.

Anchorage. — Large vessels should anchor in 20 fathoms, in the
centre of Namu harbour, witli the north extreme of Eiwash island bearing
West, and the west extreme of Plover island S. by E. Small vessels may
anchor in Whirlwind bay on the east side of Namu harbour in 12 fathoms,
clay, with the north extreme of Kiwash island bearing W. by S., and the
centre of Clam island (a small island south of the bay) South. During
the autumn and winter months the anchorage in Whirlwind bay is not
recommended, as furious gusts blow over the mountains (3,000 feet high)
in its vicinity. This anchorage is moreover confined by Loo rock, on
which there is only 3 feet water, lying nearly in the middle of the bay,
E. by N. ^ N. 2 cables from the south extreme of Sunday island. It is
recommended not to bring Sunday island to bear to the westward of
W.N. W. when entering Whirlwind bay. ,!, , ,.v - -. ..: -.

There is a large stream and an old Indian camp in Whirlwind bay.

Tides. — It '3 liigli water, full and change, in Namu harbour at
Ih. Om.; springs rise 15 feet, neaps 12^ feet.

BURKE CHANNEL, an inlet on the east side of Fitzhugh
sound, 3 miles northward of Namu harbour, leads to Belakula anchorage
at the head of North Bentinck arm, a distance of 55 miles in a general
north-easterly direction, from its junction with Fitzhugh sound. Burke
channel lies between high, precipitous, rocky mountains, the sides of which
are covered with stunted pine trees, and mostly snow-capped, becoming
more lofty as the head of the inlet is approached. Burke channel and
Bentinck arm, though not surveyed in detail, have been frequently traversed
both by day and night and may be safely navigated.*

Edmund point, the south entrance point of Burke channel, is low
and wooded, and has several small islands south of it, lying off an indenta-
tion, which has the appearance of affording sheltered anchorage. Some
small islets also lie in the channel, eastward of Edmund point. ,.

vt Walker point, the north entrance point to the channel, is formed
by an island situated 2 miles north-west from Edmund point ; this island is

* The description of Burke channel is from the Remark book of Mr. W. H. Sharp,
Master B.N., H.M.S. Sutlej, 1865.

364 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. ix.

steep-to, but at a distance of 2 cables the water is not deeper than
26 fathoms, mud bottom, r'eepening quickly a short distance further ; a
position which might be ULed in a fog for anchoring.

Temporary anchorage, north of Walker point, might on emergency, with
care, and sending a boat ahead, be taken up, but there are many covering
reefs.

The first reach of Burke channel takes a N.N.E. J^ E. direction for
5 miles, and thence N.E. J E. for 3J miles, the first part being a little over
one mile wide, but the latter part only three-quarters of a mile across.
The tides are strong in this reach, and several heavy tide rips are met with ;
but for the remainder of the distance to Belakula the tidal streams are
not much felt. Immediately facing the eastern end of this reach is a bay
which might possibly afford anchorage. The sea water here is brackish.

Restoration COVG, at 4 miles from the N.E. point of the first reach
is situated immediately under a high, conical mountain, and has a sandy
beach at its head, off which, at half a mile, is a depth uf 40 fathoms
shoaling gradually to 3 fathoms close to the shore. Several small streams
enter thfi cove.

Anchorage may be taken up in 18 fathoms at about 1^ cables
from low water mark : the shore should be approached very slowly when
coming to an anchor, as the bank is extremely steep-to and the water
shoals very suddenly.

The second reach of Burke channel trends N. by W. for 10^ miles,
ending abreast a low, wooded point at the foot of a high mountain ;
thence the channel takes a N.N.E. | E. direction for 12 miles, another arm
(Kwatna) branching off to the south-east. At one cable from the south-
west point of entrance to this arm is a rock, which uncovers at low water :
it is the only known danger in Burke channel, and may bo avoided by
keeping the north shore aboard. i ; n

Hence the channel takes a N.E. J N. direction for 4 miles along the
base of a remarkably bare, stony mountain situated on the south shore,
which is almost entirely devoid of vegetation. Thence the channel trends
N.N.E. for 6 miles, at which distance Deane channel (or canal) branches
off to the north-west, Burke channel continuing for 7 miles N.E. by E. ^ E.,
to Menzies point, in lat. 52° 18' 30" N., where it divides into the north
and south Bentinck arms, the former taking a N.E., the latter a S.E.
direction.

North Bentinck arm is 8 miles long, and just within the
entrance, on the north shore, is a small bay affording anchorage for small
craft. The head terminates in a sand and mud flat fronting low, swampy
ground, covered with grass, which is submerged at high water. The inlet
is here l^jf miles wide.

CHAP. IX.]

BURKE CHANNEL.

365

Belakula/,* at the head of North Bentinck arm, afFord-s indifferent
anchoruge to vessels close to the mud flat at the mouth of the river, oa
the south side east of Sutlej point. In taking up a berth, great care is
required ; the deep sea lead should be used, and a leadsman on the dolphin
striker will guard against getting too near the edge of the flat, which
is quite steep-to. A large vessel should moor in 45 to 50 fathoms, as
the bank is very steep-to, deepening from one to 18 fathoms in a distance
of 200 feet ; a stern anchor may also be required, or a hawser laid out
to the shore will be useful for keeping the hawse clear. Small vessels
may find shelter during summer, on the north shore under Custom house
point. The country abounds in fur-bearing animals.

Belakula or Nookhalk river is a stream of considerable size and velocity,
the deposit from which has formed the steep bank at the head of the
inlet. The water at Belakula is quite fresh alongside, and if pumped
in at low water is fit for drinking. There are also several good places
for watering at, on the north shore, opposite the anchorage, a boat being
able to go right underneath the waterfalls.

Tides. — It is high water, at full and change, at 12 hrs. ; springs rise
13 feet.

Winds. — The prevailing wind in Bentinck arm in summer is from
south-west; the westerly winds of the ocean blowing across Fitzhugh
sound being led up the inlet as through a funnel following the direction
of the different bends. The breeze generally sets in about 10 o'clock in
the forenoon, and blows fresh until sunset when it usually falls calm.

South Bentinck arm. — From Menzies point, the South Bentinck
arm branches off the south-eastward, about a mile in breadth, with high
laud on both sides, for about 20 miles. At 9 miles from Menzies point an
island lies on the eastern shore. The head of the arm is reported to be
shallow, 5 and 12 fathoms, but it has not been surveyed, and is seldom visited.

Kiltik. — From Nalau passage the coast of Hunter island extends
12 miles in a N. by W. \ W. direction with only two openings, the
northernmost of these named Kiltik on the west side of Fitzhugh
sound, opposite Edmund point, is a narrow creek (less than 2 cables),
extending nearly a mile in a westerly direction, with an average depth
of 20 fathoms in the centre, but shoal for one-third of a mile from its
head. This creek, it is supposed, might be used by moderate sized vessels,
but has not been examined in detail.

The Trap, 13 miles from the south-eastern point of Hunter island a
small islet lies off an indentation of the coast forming what has been termed

* Sea Admiralty plan : — Belakula anchorage on sheet of plant No. 1,462 ;
scale, m C3 4 ' inches.

366 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [ciup. ix.

the Trap. Strangers might be tempted to enter this opening ; it is, however
extremely contracted not affording room for a steamer to turn, and dangers
are supposed to exist in the passage round the island, it should therefore
b woided.

FISHER CHANNEL, the continuation of Fitzhugh sound
northward from the entrance to Burke channel, leads to liama and Gunboat
passages on the west, and to port John and Evans arm on the east. It
is a clear navigable channel, possessing, with the exception of the Fog
rocks, no known danger : at 1 5 miles from Walker point Fisher channel
divides into two, Johnson channel taking a N.N.W. and Cousins inlet a
North direction ; the former at a distance of 9 miles splitting into several
arms (Roscoe and Sisters inlets on either side of Florence peninsula
and Bullock and EUerslie channels on either side of Yeo island).
Bullock and EUerslie channels communicate with Seaforth channel (see
page 371), and from the north point of Yeo island, at their northern junction,
the main inlet continues northward for a further distance of 10 miles
to about lat. 52° 37' N. These channels northward of Gunboat passage
have not been surveyed in detail, and should therefore be navigated with
caution.

" Fisher canal on the western side is of moderate height ; its surface,
composed principally of rocks, is uneven and full of chasms, where a soil
formed by the decay of vegetation produces pine trees of slender growth,
maple, birch, small fruited crab and shrubs. The eastern shore rises
more abruptly inland to lofty rugged mountains covered with snow."
(See Vancouver's Voyages.)

Fog rocks, situated rather on the east side of Fitzhugh sound and
3 miles north of Walker point, consist of six rocks above water, flat
and of a whitish colour, the highest of which is 25 feet high, with a few
shrubs on it ; close to the southernmost rock several small black rocks
uncover at low water. These rocks (which appear nearly in mid-channel
from the southward) may be passed on either side, but the main route
lies to the westward of them, passing them at about half a mile. There
is a depth of 103 fathoms, mud, between Fog rocks and the eastern shore
of Fitzhugh sound.

PORT JOHN.* — At 4 miles north of Lama passage, on the
eastern shore of Fisher channel, and 9 miles northward of Fog rocks, is an
indentation, in the northern part of which, immediately under Remarkable
cone mountain, 2,302 feet high, is port John, southward of which is Evans
arm, into which there are two passages on either side of Matthew island,
360 feet high, which lies at the entrance to the arm. The south passage is

* See Admiralty chart: — Lama passage and Seaforth channel, No. 2,449; scale,
m a 1*55 inohes.

OHAP.ix.] FISHER CHANNEL. — PORT JOHN. — LAMA PASSAGE. 367

half a mile wide, and clear of danger. The north passage is only one-third
of a mile wide, and this near the east end is contracted to 1 J cables by a
rock lying in the centre.

Port John (of Vancouver) affords anchorage in 20 fathoms, but is much
confined by Mark rock nearly in the middle, covering at half flood, and
by a flat extending off the stream at its head. There is also anchorage afc
the head of Evans arm in 20 fathoms, which may bo reached through
South passage, but the immediate approach to it north of Boot island is foul,
and a vessel of size should be preceded by a boat. North passage should
only be used after temporarily buoying Peril rock, which has only 12 feet
water on it, and lies nearly in tho middle of the east entrance to the
passage.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port John, at Ih. Om. ;
springs rise 13 feet.

DEAN CANAL leads out of Cousins inlet to the N.N.E., in
which direction it extends for about 12 miles, and there divides into
three branches ; one (Cascade inlet) taking a north-west direction ; another
(Liabouchere channel) to the south-east, and communicating with Burke
channel (see page 364) ; the other, main inlet, extending in a north and
north-east direction, " with an average width of one mile for a distance of
18 miles, when it turns to the N.N.W. for 9 miles, terminating in low
marshy land in about lat. 52° 52' N., into which the Kimswit river dis-
charges itself. Anchorage is reported on a spit, off a small stream on the
west shore, near the head.

Cascade inlet, so named by Vancouver, from the number of water-
falls, extends in a north-west direction for about 11 miles with an average
width of three-quarters of a mile. It, in common with the other branches
of Dean channel, has not been surveyed in detail ; its shores are composed
of perpendicular precipices, and several large cascades come down from
the high mountains that overlook it. " These were extremely grand,
and by much the largest and most tremendous of any we had ever
beheld. The impetuosity with which these waters descended produced a
strong current of air that reached nearly to the opposite side of the canal,
though it was perfectly calm in every other direction."*

LAMA PASSAGE,! between Hunter and Denny islands, is
the main passage connecting Fisher channel (the northern continuation
of Fitzhugh sound) with Seaforth channel and Milbank sound ; its
eastern entrance on the west side of Fisher channel, 6 miles north of Fog

♦ Vancouver's Voyages, Vol. ii., p. 268.

t See Admiralty chart ; — Lama passage and Seaforth ch ooel. No. 2,449 ; scale,
»=il'56inche8. ' ' ■""

368 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. tx.

rocks, may be recognised by a conical mountain 1,000 feet high, on the
north-east point of Hunter island, and by Pointer island, on the south
aide of this entrance, where it is nearly one mile wide. Thence the passage
trends West 2 miles to abreast Serpent point on the south shore, the
breadth being about half a mile, and the depths 130 fathoms in the
middle, 25 and 26 fathoms near the shores ; it then widens and trends
W.S.W. 4 miles to abreast Twilight point (the south-west point of Denny
island) with no bottom at 38 fathoms near the north shore, and 23,
12, and 20 fathoms close to the points extending from the south shore.

The entrance to Plumper channel (see page 459), which is one mile
wide, lies opposite Twilight point, from which Lama passage turns to
the north-west between Denny and Campbell islands, for 4 miles to Grave
point, which has several Indian graves on it; from 2^ miles north of
Twilight point to Grave point the passage is contracted to 2 cables,
with uniform depths of 25 to 30 fathoms.'

The north shore of Lama passage is bold and but slightly indented, but
the southern, after the first 3 miles, is penetrated by a number of indentations,
some of which afford shelter.

Tides. — About midway between Fog rocks and Lama passage the
flood tide from the northward meets that from the southward.

COOPER INLET, situated on the southern shore of Lama
passage, 5 miles from the eastern entrance, is deep, and contains several
small creeks, the indentations already mentioned, off which lie a number of
islets and rocks. In fine weather anchorage maybe obtained in 14 fathoms
water under Westminster point, the north-west point of the inlet, by
bringing it to bear W.N.W., and Harbour-master point the north-east point
of the inlet, just open of the reefs o£E Charles point bearing N.E. by E. J E.

Jane creek, in the south-east corner of Cooper inlet, may be used
by small vessels. Charles point, its north point, has two reefs extending
one cable from it in a north-westerly direction, the outer of which dries

9 feet. .■• -■■ '■■ -' ■ - !■■ •■ "'■'■' •>-.n--J, -" »a.y - . v^. i ; v

Anchorage. — Good anchorage may be had in this creek in 9 fathoms
water, with Charles point in line with the east point of Canoe bight
(on the opposite shore of the passage) bearing N.W. J W., and George
point, the south entrance point of Jane creek, bearing S.W. by W. Large
vessels may anchor in about 18 fathoms midway between Charles and
George points ; the bottom in this creek is mostly rocky.

Camp island, lying close to the south-west extremity of Denny
island, and the turning point into the northern part of Lama passage,
should not be rounded nearer than half a mile, as the bottom is foul for

CHAP. IX.] LAMA PASSAGE; MCLAUGHLIN BAY.

369

a distance of 3 cables in a south-easterly direction from it, with patches
that uncover 2 feet at low water springs.

McLaughlin bay,* on the west shore of Lama passage,
half tt mile south of Grave point, is a good stopping place; it is about
4 cables wide and 1^ cables deep, with 8 to 14 fathoms water. The south
point of the bay has a bare summit 150 feet high, which in thick weather
is a useful guide to a stranger. The anchorage is in 11 fathoms off
the centre of the beach about one cable from the shore, with Grave point
open east of south-west point of Narrows island bearing N. \ W., and
Aichibald point open east of Napier point bearing S.E. by E. A spit runs
off with Bare hill bearing West. Anchorage should be taken up well to
the southward of the chui-ch.

In this bay is the site of an old Hudson bay trading post ; there is a
small quantity of cleared ground at the foot of a rocky hill 200 feet high,
a quarter of a mile from the beach, on the west side of which there is a
lake. This is the only Indian winter residence between Queen Charlotte
sound and Seaforth channel.

The Bella Bella natives migrated here from Bella Bella islands in 1868 ;
an American missionary now resides in the bay, and a small church and
school-house have been recently erected.

A rock is said, from Indian report, to exist in Lama passage abreast
McLaughlin bay, and to lie half a cable from the eastern shore, with
Napier point bearing S.S.E. distant nearly 6 cables ; this reported danger
may be avoided by keeping in mid-channel — H.M.S. Amethyst, 1876.
This rock was searched for without success by H.M.S. Rocket in 1879.
This passage was frequently used by the Beaver during the survey,
and though not then found the rock may exist, and consequently the
western shore should be favoured.

Tides. — It is high water at full and change in McLaughlin bay at
Ih. Om. ; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 10 feet.

Bella Bella islands lie three-quarters of a mile north of Grave
point, bare and about 15 feet high; these islands were formerly inhabited
during the summer months by the Indians of the once powerful Bella
Bella tribe. In 1884 there was an Indian population of 250. Temporary
anchorage may be had to the eastward of Bella Bella islands off a green
bushy flat, the old winter residence of these natives.

KLICK TSO ATLI HARBOUR, on the north side of Denny
island, and 1^ miles east of Bella Bella islands, is about one mile in extent,

* See Admiralty plan : — McLaughlin bay, on sheet of plans of anchorages between
capo Caution and Ogdea channel, No. 1,901 ; scale »i = 5'5 inches.

A 17498. A A

370 Q. CH^VJULOTTE SOUND TO 8EA.F0RTU CHANNEL, [oiup. ix.

with depths of 9 to 13 fathoms, and affonls oxcellent shelter for vessels of
any size. Harbour island, off the north-west point of Klick tso atli, hns
a reef extending one cable from its east end.

Steamer pESSage. — The channel south of Harbour island is one
cable wide, with a depth of 7 fathoms, and is suitable for small vessels ;
large vessels are recommended to pass north of Harbour island and through
Wheelock pass, which lies between a ii-fathom patch near the centre of
the channel and Noble point, the north-east entrance point of the harboui',
from which a .3-fathom shoal extends three-quarters of a cable in a south-
westerly direction.

The west extreme of Cypress island in line with the east extreme of
Meadow island bearing N.N.W. J W. leads through Wheelock pass in
11 to 19 fathoms water, and when Harbour isUnd bears West a vessel may
anchor in 12 fathoms.

A large vessel not wishing to enter Klick tso atli harbour, may obtain
secure anchorage in 15 fathoms, with Harbour island bearing S.S.E. | E,
distant 3 cables.

Ka kOOSh dish, creek, just north of Noble point, and extending
1| miles in an easterly direction, is suitable for small craft, bul is baiTed
across by kelp, having 3^ fathoms.

There is an Indian fishing station at the head of this creek.

Main passage, leading from Lama passage to Seaforth channel,
•between the north-east extreme of Campbell and Narrows islands, is three-
.quarters of a mile long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and from 2 to 2| cables wide,
with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms in it. Care should be taken to maintain
a mid-channel course, and in thick weather much caution must be observed
as the tides are very strong.

Narrows island, siii-ated. about three-quarters of a mile north of
Bella Bella islands, is three- quarters of a mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
and nearly half a mil" i'lv-.ul ; at one cable from the south side of Narrows
island there is a ledge of rocks awash at high water, with 5 fathoms
close to.

Pole and Tree islets, situated about a quarter of a mile from the

east extreme of Narrows island, are two small islets 2 cables apart in a

north and south direction from each other ; Tree islet the northernmost is

120 feet high, with a detached rock close to its north-east side. There are

'.two rocky ledges between these islets and Narrows island.

Hodges reef, which dries 2 feet at low water springs, with 6 and
7 fathoms close-to, lies nearly in mid-channel between Tree islet and Deer

fliup. IX.] SEAFORTn CHANNEL; ORMIDALE UARBOUE. 371

ffllMnd, the latter U ing 4 cables east from the former. From this reef the
centre of Tvv>e isl' t bears West 2 cables, and the oast extreme of Polo islet
S.W. f S. 3 cables.

Meadow island, half a mile long N.E. and S.W., lies 2 cables
south-east of Pole islet. In the channel between them arc depths of 5 to
15 fathoms, and a reef lies half a oable from the north point of Meadow
inland.

Deer and Cypress islands He to the eastward of the above
islands, and are joined at low water ; the former is half a mile long in a
N.W. and S.E. direction ; the latter one mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W.

Gunboat passage, between Denny and Cunningham islands, is
narrow and intricate, contaiuing many rocks and kelp patches ; in some
places the channel is not more than half a cable wide. From its western
entrance it trends about E. by N. for 6 miles, thence North 2 miles to its
eastern entrance, which is at the junction of Fisher and Dean channels.

Gunboat passage should not be attempted unless in small handy steam
coastir.g vessels and with good local knowledge.

SEAPORTH CHANNEL, the main channel connecting Lama
passage with Milbaiik sound, between Campbell island, and the Bardswell
group on the south, and Chatfield, Yeo, and Don islands on the north, is
14 miles long E. by N. and W. by S. with an average breadth of one mile ;
the land on both sides is much broken by islands with channels between
leading north and south ; the water ia generally deep, and with the
Admiralty charts there should be no diflBculty in navigating, in ordinary
■weather.

On the north side three arms branch off to the northward ; Deer passage,
the eastern, between Cunningham and Chatfield islands, is about 7 miles
long, and communicates with Johnson channel ; Return channel, the middle
one, between Chatfield and Yeo islands, is about 3 miles in length and
joins Bullock channel ; and Spiiler channel, the western, between Yeo
and Don islands, extends 4 miles and connects with Ellerslie channel (sec
page 366). These channels have not been more than casually examined,
and their entrances are fronted by innumerable small islands, rocks, and reefs.
On the south side of Seaforth channel at 9^ miles to the eastward of Sound
point is the entrance to Hecate channel. This passage is about 10 miles
long in a general southerly direction, with an average width of one mile,
and leads into Queen's sound.

ORMIDALE HARBOUR, at the north extreme of Campbell
island, is about one mile deep in a S.S.E. direction, and is protected from
the north-east by Thorburne and Nevoy islands which lie across its
entrance. The channel in, nearly one mile S.W. | S. from Grassy islet, lies

Ai.2

372 Q. CHA.BLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. a.

westward of Nevoy island, it is about 1^ cables wide, with from 14 to
16 fathoms water, and is clear of danger if a mid-channel course is steered.
Inside the water is deep, the depth over the greater part being from 15 to
20 fathoms. Anchorage may be had in 17 fathoms about 2 cables S.S.E.
from Nevoy island.

The passage in is longer, but the berth is more convenient than in
Kynumpt harbour directly west of it. ■

K YNUMPT HARBOUR,* on the north point of Campbell island,
immediately west of Ormidale harbour (south shore of Seaforth channel),
and about 2 miles westward from its junction with Lama pas^^age, may be
recognised by Grassy islet 20 feet high, and Regatta reefs, both of which
ai'c conspicuous, lying in the middle of the channel 1\ miles tastward of the
harbour, and also by White stone, a conspicuous bare rock 12 feet high,
lying 2 cables west of the entran^ie.

The harbour, the entrance to which is between Shelf point and Low island,
is 4 cablep long N.N.W. and S.S.E.. and averaging 2 cables in breadth with
6 to IG fathoms, mud bottom ; the best anchorage is in 7 to 9 fathoms
with the north extreme of Berry point bearing E.N.E., and the west
extreme of Low island N. by E. ^ E.f A shoal patch with l\ fathoms on it,
lies ou the west side of the harbour, 2J cables S.S.E. ^ E. from Shelf pointy
distant one cable from the shore.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Kyuumpt hnrbour at
Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Grassy islet, small, 20 feet high, covered with long grass and
bushes, and with only two trees on it, lies nearly one mile N.E. by N. from
the entrance to Ormidale harbour.

Regatta rock, awash at high water, one cable in extent north-east
and south-west, lies half a mile W. by N. ^ N. from Grassy island.

Dall patch, a shoal with loss than 6 feet water on it, lies half a
mile N.N.E. from the entrance to Kynumpt harbour ; from the centre
of the patch Defeat point bears S. ^ \V., distant 4 cables ; White stone
S.yf. by W. ^ W., 6^ cables ; and west extreme of Low islaL i S. by W. i W. ;
a shoal of 3 fathoms extends 1^ cables to the westward of Daa patch.

Caution. — To avoid Dall patch, it is recommended to keep thf; southern
shore on board, which in this vicinity may be approached to within 1^
cables ; or if wishing to go northward of the patch, — Grassy islet, in line

* See Admiralty plan: — Kynumpt harbour, on sheet No. 1901 ; sue'.e, m=.6'5 inches,
■f A rock wUh 10 feet water over it has been reported to lie 2 CHbles S.W. from Low
island, but though searched for in H.M.S. Heroine in Ncvember 1883, it was not found.

CHAP. IX.] SEAFOETH CHANNEL ; KYNUMPT HARBOUR. 373

wiih the south extreme of Handyside island be»:ing E. J N., leads nearly
midway between Dall patch and Regatta rock.

Dundivan inlet, on the north shore of Dufferin island, about 3
miles westward of Kynumpt harbour, indents the coast about If miles in a
south-east direction. It branches off into several creeks, of which Lockhart
and Rait are the largest, and there are several small islets just within the
entrance. The water is too deep to afPord convenient anchorage. The
south shore of Seaforth channel, westward of Dundivan inlet, trends in
nearly a straight line to Sound poinf, the south point of entrance. At 2^
miles eastward of Sound point Grale creek branches o£E in a southerly
direction, and is supposed to connect with Boddy creek from the south-east,
thus separating Dufferin Island from the remainder of the Bardswell group.

Edge reef, on which there is a depth of 4^ fathoms, lies nearly
4 cables distant from the south shore, at 2 miles eastward of Souud
point. Several patches lie between it and the shore.

Cod bank, on which the least depth found was 27 fathoms, sand, lies
in the middle of the western entrance to Seaforth channel 1^ miles
N. by W. from Sound point ; there are 58 fathoms on the south side, and
163 fathoms, rock, close-to on the north side of Cod bank

Anchorage. — Between Sound point, and Gale creek nt 2^ miles to
the eastward of it, a bank extends about three-quarters of a mile from the
south shore of Seaforth channel; on its outer edge, which is steep-to,
there are depths of 28 and 30 fathoms, decreasing to 18 and 10 fathoms
close to the shore for a distance of one mile east of Sjund point. During
foggy wea,ther, temporary anchorage may, with careful use of the lead, be
obtained on this bank.

Hyndman reefs, the outer of several islets and reefs lying on the
western shore at the entrance to Spiller channel, is nearly in the middle of
that channel, and ha^ a small rock only 3 feet above water on it south end.

Berry creek. — The south shore of Don island is broken and rooky,
and has numerous islets and rocks skirting it. Berry creek is nearly
2 miles long in a northerly direction, and as the water in it is deep, and
the entrance blocked by small islets, it is useless as an anchorage.

Blair inlet, 3 miles westward of Berr, creek, is another indentatiou,
useless as an anchorite on account of the numerous rocks with whicli
it is studded. Ivory and Watch islands form its south side.

Midge reefs, on cho north side of Seaforth channel, cover at 10 feet
rise, and exitmd 4 cables in a southerly direction from Bush point (Dou

374) Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. ix.

island), and are 3| miles within the western entrance to the channel. The
Mark rock lies one cable distant from the south-east point of Don island^
and one mile E.N.E. from Midge reefs; between them is Sunk reef with
4 fathoms water on it. Bare rock, black and low, kept just open to the
southward of Surf islet, bearing W. ^ S., leads half a mile to the south-
ward of Midge reefs, and the north shore of Seaforth channel should not be
approached within this distance.

Mouse i'OCk, on which the sea sometimes breaks, lies half a mile
W.S.W. of IvcT-y island off the entrance to Blair inlet. Idol point kept
open of Surf islei, bearing E. ^ N. leads 2 cables south of Mouse rock.

p. IX.

375

The
land,
with
I the
)uth-
ot be

mile
kept

CHAPTER X.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

Variation in 1888.
Milbank sound, 26° 00' E. I Chatham sound, 27° 10' E.

MILBANK SOUND has its entrance between the parallels of
52° 9' and 52° 16° N. and the meridians of 128° 33' and 128° 42' W.
This spacious sheet of water is the main opening from seaward leading to
Seaforth, Finlayson, and Mathicson channels.*

At its entrance between cape Swain and Day point, the sound is nearly
9 milvjo v.'ide, which breadth it maintains in a N.N.E. direction for 5 miles,
thence it trends more northerly, and takes aN.N.W. direction for 10 miles,
leading in that direction into Finlayson channel.

Landmarks. — Approaching Milbank sound from the south-west-
ward. Helmet peak on Lake island, at the eastern shore of the sound,
is conspicuous. This remarkable peak is 1,032 feet high, and bears a
striking resemblance to a helmet, with the sloping side towards the west.

Stripe mountain, on the north side of Dowager island, at the entrance
of Finlayson channel, is 2,020 feet high, pyramidal in shape, with a
remarkable landslip down its south-west side, destitute of timber and soil,
but otherwise wooded to its summit ; at its base is a comparatively level
space scantily covered with vegetation, which is remarkable in such a thickly
timbered country.

Nearing the sound the low wooded shores of cape Swain, the south-
west entrance point to the sound, Aviil be recognised. The shore northward
of it is much broken, and the tops of the trees are about 120 feet high.

Cape Swain is situated in latitude 52° 8' 50" N., longitude 128° 33' 30" W.

Day point (south point of Price ielaud), the north-west entrance
point of Milbank sound, hi« a group of wooded islets, rocks awash at high
water, and sunken rocks extending 2 iriles S.S.W. from it; the western

• See Admiralty chiuts: — Capo Caution to port Simpson, northern and Bouthern
portions, No. 1,923 a uud b; scale, w = 0'25 of an inch.

376

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

island of the group (Outer island) being round.^ wooded, and conspicuous.
The outer edge of these dangers lies 2y\j miles S.S.W. from Day point,
and 8 cables S.E. ^ S. from Outer island.*

White rock (Ka mas ik), lying about S miles within the sound,
IS 50 feet high, and half a mile N. by E. from it, is a smaller rock
(Bare rock) 6 feet above high water. Both rocks are conspicuous, as,
lying well out in the sound, they show out against the dark background of
pine and cedar, which line the shores of Milbank sound.

From White rock, a rocky ridge (on which the sea sometimes breaks)
extends half a mile to the south-westward ; and a patch of 2 fathoms lies
2^ cable ^ast of the same rock.

There ' >ths of 50 fathoms, rock, at one mile eastward, and 34

fathoms clot. westward of this rock.

The south extreme of Cliff island, seen just open of Boulder head,
bearing N.N.W. ^ W., leads 8 cables eastward of this rock.

Discovery rocks, situated off cape Swain, are two dangerous rocks
lying 8 cables N. by E. and S. by W. from each other. The southern
danger, over which the sea seldom breaks, lies one mile W, ^ S. from
cape Swain. The northern rock, which is usually indicated by breakers,
lies N.W. ^ W. distant l^^ miles from cape Swain.

TVest rock, situated or. the eastern shore of the sound, is of small
extent, 8 feet above high water, and lies half a mile S.W. ^ S. from Sound
point.

Several patches which uncover at low water lie between Sound point and
West rock.

Mouse rock (see p. 374) is a dangerous sunken rock on which the
sea generally breaks, lying at the north-west entrance to Seaforth channel,
6 cables W. ^ N. from Surf islet.

Bush point (north side of Seaforth channel) seen just open south of
Surf islet, bearing E. by N. ^ N. leads soutiiward ; and Helmet peak seen
just open of the west extreme of Mary island, bearing N. | E., leads
westward of Mouse rock. -,.f. ,■,••

Vancouver rock, a dangerous rock which uncovers 12 feet at
low water, and is steep-to on all sides (there being depths of 13 and
14 fathoms within one cable of the rock), lies 4 miles N.N.W. \ W. from
W'.iite rock, and 1^ miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Boulder head. When
visible this rock presents the appearance of a large whale, and is
conspicuous. / ;

* Kelp will be seen on the surface of the water, growing on nearly every danger
with a bottoK of rock or stones, during the summer and autumn months; but during
the winter aud spring this useful marine plant is not always to be seen.

CHAP, x] MILBANK SOUND ; VANCOUVER ROCK. 377

Cross point (south-east extreme of Lady island), in line with Boulder
head, bearing E. f S., leads 6 cables southward ; and Low point seen just
open westward of the North island group, bearing North, leads westward
of Vancouver rock, . •

Cross ledge extends 8 cables to the southward of Cross point, and
partially uncovers. There is a depth of 20 fathoms close southward of
Cross ledge.

Surf islet, bearing E. by S., leads southward of Cross ledge, in mid-
chanuel between Cross point and White rock.

Boulder ledge, of sunken rocks, with depths oi l^ and 5 fathoms,
extends 9 cables in a south-easterly direction from Boulder head.

Boulder bank, with 18 fathoms, rock, lies 7 cables S.S.W. from
Boulder head.

Surf islet, bearing E. by S., leads southward of the dangers o£E Boulder
head. ,^ , , .„

North ledges, which uncover at low water, lie northward of the
North island group. The north extreme of these ledges lies 6 cables
N. by W. ^ W. from North island ; and the south extreme 2 cables N.E. of
that island.

Beaver bank has 27 fathoms water (least depth found) on it,
over a bottom of sand and shells. The centre of this bank lies 2^ miles
W. by N, from Low point.

The bank is about one mile long in a north and south direction, with
depths of 45 fathoms, gravel, at 2 cables westward, and 114 fathoms, rock,
at one mile eastward of „ the bank in mid-channel, between Low and
Jorkins points.

Fogs. — A vessel meeting with a fog in this portion of Milbank sound
would find Beaver bank of service, not only as indicating her position, but
as affording temporary anchorage.

Sandstone reef, situated close to the shoie in the north-western
portion of Milbank sound, is a conspicuous narrow ridge, of sandstone
formation, about one mile long in an E. by N. and W. by S. direction.
The highest portion of this ridge is 4 feet above high water.

The western extreme of Sandstone reef lies 5 cables from the shore of
Swindle island, aua 1^ miles from the eastern side of Price island.

Soundings. — A run of deep water 8 miles broad, with depths of
over 100 fathoms, mud, extends south-westward of Milbank sound. North-
westward of this channel the depths decrease to 50 fathoms, and less, off
the entrance to Laredo sound, with a bottom of fine sand. South-eastward

378

MILBANK SOUND 10 CHATHAM SOUND.

[0H4P. X.

the depths are 76 and 80 fathoms, with a bottom consisting of sand, mud,
and rock at intervals.

In thick weather, therefore, or if overtaken by fog, when approaching
Milbank sound from the south-westward, with average precautions, a
vessel's position can be indicated by the deep sea lead.

Within Milbank sound the water is deep, there being depths of 109 and
116 fathoms within its entrance points, the deeper water being on the
south-east shores of the sound. In mid-channel there is no bottom at 130
fathoms, and at one mile from the south-east shores of the sound there are
depths of 110 and 120 fathoms, rock; those shores, therefore, should be
approached with caution.

In the northei'n and north-western portions of Milbank sound the
depths are irregular (21 fathoms rock and 114 fathoms, mud).

The COAST. — Between cape Swain and Sound point the land is
low, wooded, and broken into creeks and bays.

PRICE ISLAND, forming the western shore of Milbank sound,
has a conspicuous ridge of hills (Jocelyn range) along its eastern shore,
from 300 to 600 feet in height. The cluster of islets off Day point are
wooded and couspicuous ; and from Day point the eastern shore of Price
island trends in a N. by E. direction for 4 miles to Aldrich point, and is
much broken into small exposed bays.

Boat cove, which affords shelter to boats, is situated half-a-mile
northward ox Aldrich point. With this exception the coast of Price
island, nortli of Aldrich point, is almost straight and unbroken for 8 miles,
in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction to the entrance of Schooner passage.

The eastern shores of Milbank sound are comparatively low and
wooded, with pine and cedar trees predominating. In that portion of the
sound lie two extensive channels (Mathieson channel and Moss passage),
which branch otF from Milbank sound eastward and northward of Lady
island, respectively. Lady island is low and wooded throughout. The
western shores of Dowager island are also low and wooded, but are flanked
by high mountains.

The south-east extreme of an island contiguous to Lady island, termi-
nates in a high bold cliff (Boulder head). Cliff island which lies off the
south-west side of Dowager island at the entrance to Moss passage is
small, 225 feet high, and its south-east extreme terminates in high,
couspicuous white cliffs. .

North island is rocky, about 150 feet high, with some stunted trees
growing on its summit.

Low point, f^e western extreme of Dowager island, and the south-
cast entrance point of Finlayson channel, is low and wooded.

ciup. X.] MILBANK SOUND. — MATHTESON CHANNEL. 379

The north-western shore of Milbank sound (Swindle island) is
bigh and bold with mountains 1,500 to 2,000 feet high rising immediately
over it.

Directions. — Approaching Milbank sound from the south westward
in clear weather, Helmet peak should be kept in line with White rock,
bearing N.N.E. § E., which mark will lead nearly in mid-channel up the
sound. When within 2^ miles of White rock, on that line, a vessel bound
eastward may steer E. by N. | N. towards Seaforth channel, with Day
point astern bearing W. by S. | S., or if bound to the northward aN. by W.
course may be steered towards Finlayson channel.

In thick weather, as before mentioned, with average precautions and
attention to the deep sea lead, the soundings will indicate the vessel's
position.

Bound from Seaforth channel into Finlayson channel, keep Idol point
well open to the southward of Surf isbt, bearing E. ^ N., until Helmet
peak comes open of the west extreme of Mary island bearing N. | E. and
tlien Surf islet should be kept astern bearing E. by S. for 3 miles,
which will lead in mid-channel, 1^ miles northward of White rock.
From this position Cliff island should be seen open westwai'd of Boulder
head, bearing N.N.W. ^ W., and a vessel may steer N.W. by W. ^ W. for
3 miles, or until Low point is seen open westward of the North island
group bearing North ; thence steer N.N.W. for 3 miles, or until Stripe
mountain bears N.E. by N., when it may be steered for on that bearing,
and the course gratlually altered northward into Finlayson channel.

MATHIESON CHANNEL is an extensive arm of the sea
leading many miles northward from Milbank sound, eastward of Latly and
Dowager islands, with depths of 103 and 105 fathoms in mid-channel. At
the distance of 2^ miles within its south entrance this channel is obstructed
by islands, islets, and rocks, and a stranger should, therefore, not attempt
to proceed further. From the east entrance to Oscar passage,* by which
it communicates Avith Finlayson channel {see page 384), Matbieson channel
extends in a N.N.W. direction along the east side of Roderick island for
over 25 miles to its junction with Mussel inlet ; one arm, about 5 miles long,
branching off to the eastward at about 5 miles south of the junction.

Tides. — The flood stream sets to the northward, and divides near the
middle of Milbank sound, one portion running towards Finlayson channel,
another towards Matbieson channel, and another towards Seaforth channel.
The reverse takes place on the ebb.

The strength of tide is variable, but it seldom exceeds one knot an hour in
Milbank sound, but increases within the channels to 2 and 3 knots an hour.

* Northward of Oscar pass Matbieson channel has not been surveyed in detail.

380

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[OHAf.

ST. JOHN HARBOUR (Cheek squintz) lies on the south-
east shore of Milbank sound, nearly midway between cape Swain and
Sound point, and, though somewhat confined, affords good anchorage for
small vessels.

The harbour is protected at its entrance by a reef of rocks awash and
sunken rocks, which form a natural breakwater, and breaks the ocean swell.
Eastward of this reef, at the entrance, there is a clear channel, 2 cables
wide, with depths of 10 to 30 fathoms.

At 5 cables within the entrance are two small islands, the eastern and
smaller one (Wood island) being round, wooded, and conspicuous. The
channel eastward of these islands is barely one cable wide abreast Wood
island, and leads into Anchor bay, which is the usual anchorage for
small vessels. Westward of these islands the channel is wider and
leads into Deep bay, which forms the south-west arm of St. John
harbour.

There are depths of 9 to 20 fathoms in Deep bay, and 11 to 14 fathoms
in Anchor bay.

Rage reef extends 7 cables northward from the west point of St.
John harbour, and is about 2 cables wide. This dangerous reef consists of
ledges which uncover, and rocks awash at high water ; the northern
extreme uncovering 4 feet at low water.

Mark islet, 6 feet above high water, lies about midway on the eastern
side of Rage reef.

Ledges, which uncover, extend one cable from the eastern shore of
the channel leading into St. John harbour. . ' , it ■

Directions. — Approaching St. John harbour, cape Swain should
be kept well open of the conspicuous quoin-shaped point situated 2 miles
northward of the cape, bearing S. ^ W. On no account should Rage reef
be approached inside that line, until Wood island (within the harbour), is
distinctly seen, and North point bears East. When Wood island is recog-
nised, it should be brought to bear S.S.E. \ E., and steered for. Wood
island on that bearing should be seen in line with a black high-water rock
on the south shore of Anchor bay, with a sandy bay immediately east of
the rock.

Anchorage. — Pass half a cable eastward of Wood island, and anchor
in 10 to 11 fathoms, sandy bottom, in Anchor bay, with the eastern side
of Wood island seen in line with the north extreme of Eage reef, bearing
N.W. ^ W., distant 3 cables.

Caution. — At high water, when Bage reef is nearly covered, it is
difficult to distinguish the entrance into St John harbour. At half-tide,
and at low water, the northern end of that reef and also the dangers

CHAP. X.] ST. JOHN HAEBOUR. — POET BLAKENEY. 381

on the eastern side of the channel are visible, and a vessel can be guided
clear of them by the eye. That period of the tide is, therefore, the best
time for entering St. John harbour.

PORT BLAKENEY,* formed between Mary and Don islands, on
the south side of Mathieson channel, about 3 miles within the entrance, is
easy of access, and, lying immediately at the head of Milbank sound, may
be approached from the south-westward with the swell astern.

At its entrance, between Promise and Rain points, the port is 2^ cables
wide ; thence it takes a southerly directiou for about one mile, terminating
in a small creek leading into Seaforth channel. i

Cod reofs are a cluster of rocks awash, and sunken rocks, about
2J cables in extent in a north and south direction at the entrance to port
Blakeney. The southern rock of this cluster is 4 feet above high water,
and the northern rock with 24 feet water over it lies 3 cables N.N.E. from
Promise point, with a clear channel northward of it 1^ cables wide.

OkO reefs, situated about 2 cables northward of Cod reefs, extend
2 cables from the south side of Oke island. The outer detached rock
is 3 feet above high water, and between it and Oke island several patches
of rock uncover at high water.

Clearing marks. — White rocks oflf the south end of Lake island,
seen in line (astern) with the north end of Passage island (between Lake
and Lady islands) bearing W. ^ N., will lead between Oke and Cod reefs.
Mark islet, seen in line with Oke island, bearing N.W., by N., will lead
eastward of those dangers.

Sand patch, with 24 feet water upon it, is of small extent, and lies
nearly in mid-channel about 5 cables within port Blakeney. Helmet
peak, seen in line with Promise point, bearing N. by W. ^ W., will lead
westward of Sand patch.

Anchorage in lO to 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, will be found about
o cables within port Blakeney, with Helmet peak seen just open of
Promise point bearing N. by W. ^ W., and Observation point on the
north shore of East bay bearing E. by N. ^ N.

Tides. — It is high water at full and change, in port Blakeney, at
noon ; springs rise 13 feet, neaps 8 feet.

Supplies. — Wood and water may be obtained in port Blakeney.
Bock cod and other fish may be caught in abundance on Cod reefs, and
clams and cockles in the sandy bays. They are readily obtained at
low water by digging in the mud and sandy ground, especially in those

* See Admiralty plan : — Port Blakeney, on sheet of plans, No. 1462 ; scale,
m B 3 inches.

382

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

places over which a fresh-water stream run<
in the seusou.

Wild fowl are also plentiful

Directions. — Approaching port Blakeney from the southward,
Helmet peak should be kept just open of the eastern point of Lady inland
(Long point) bearing N. by E. ^ E., and when within 5 cables from
the latter a N.E. ^ N. course should be steered towards Oke island.
The clearing mark before mentioned for leading between the Oke and Cod
reefs should be brought on astern, namely, White rocks, in line with the
north end of Passage island bearing W. ^ N. and when Mark and Oke
islands are seen in line bearing N.W. by N. a vessel will be eastward of
Cod reefs, and may then haul into the harbour with the south extreme of
William island astern, bearing North, and anchor in the depth and position
before mentioned.

MOSS PASSAGE (Too Witl) leads northward of Lady island
into Mathiesou channel. At its western entrance this passage is over one mile
wide ; but at 3 miles within this entrance, and one mile from its junction
with Mathieson channel, it is contracted by Squaw island to barely one
cable. Beyond that position, therefore, it should not be attempted by a
stranger.

Bird rock, situated at the western entrance of Moss passage, 3 cables
E.by S. from the south extreme of Cliflf island, is 3 feet above high water
with foul ground extending from it 2 cables to the eastward. The south
extreme of the North island group seen just open southward of the south
extreme of Cliff island, bearing W. by N. ^ N., leads southward of Binl rock.

MORHIS BAY,* situated on the south side of Moss passage, about
one mile within its western entrance, is 2^ cables wide, and extends in
a south-easterly direction for 3 cables, terminating in a cul-de-sac
which dries at low water. Westerly winds send a swell into the
anchorage ; but the bay possesses the great advantage of permitting the
state of the weather in Milbank sound being ascertained when at anchor,
and if fog be prevalent (as is often the case) it can be seen from Morris
bay.

Kitty patCb. lies at the eastern entrance to Morris bay, one cable
from the eastern shore. This bank is one cable in extent north and south,
with depths of 4 and 5 fathoms, sand.

Directions. — Approaching Morris bay, a mid-channel course should
be kept between Bird rock and Salal point ; and if Vancouver rock
be uncovered, it should be kept astern bearing S.W. by W. (westerly).

* See plan of Morris bay on Admiralty chart No. 1,462 ; scale, m = 4* 12 inches.

oHAP.x.] MORRIS BAY. — ALEXANDRA PASSAGE. 383

When the south extreme of Clift' iyland is seen open northward of Bird
rock, bearing W. J^ N., that mark kept on astern will lead to the entrance to
Morris bay.

AncllOrEge will bo found in 12 to 14 fathoms, sandy bottom, at one
cable from the western shore, with Salal point shnt in by the western
entrance point of Morris bay, bearing W. by 8. ^ S., and Detached island
(north side of Moss passage) bearing N.N.W.

Supplies. — Good water may be obtained in Morris bay. Clams and
cockles can be gathered in abundance. Plover and other birds frequent
Bird rock. Berries grow in abundance on Salal point.

ALEXANDRA PASSAGE lies northward of Vancouver rock
and the North island group. Small steam vessels, possessing local know-
ledge, make use of Alexandra passage, especially when coming from the
northward and wishing to anchor in Morris bay ; but this passage is
barely 6 cables wide in its narrowest part, and in the event of an
accident to the machinery a vessel using it would be in a dangerous
position.

Cliff island {i^c^ P- 378) is nearly steep-to, but the small islet close
northward of it has foul ground extending from it one cable to the west-
ward.

Soundings. — The depths in Alexandra passage are 14 to 42 fathoms,
rocky at the former, and mud at the latter depth.

Directions. — A vessel compelled by circumstances to make use of
Alexandra passage should keep the western shore of Finlayson channel
north of Jorkins point in line with Low point, bearing N. by W. J W., which
is the general leading mark through this passage. It is, however, recom-
mended alternately to open and close those points, especially when nearing
North island group, so as to keep in raid-channel.

SCHOONER PASSAGE, leading from Laredo sound into the
north-west corner of Milbank sound, is jj -ucted by islands, islets, rocks,
and sunken dangers, and no specific direciiOiis can be given for it. It is
occasionally, however, made use of by small coas^ting craft, and the large
canoes of the Queen Charlotte islanders also pass through it when making
the passage to Vancouver island.

PINLAYSON CHANNEL, the entrance to which is between
Jorkins and Low points, extends from Milbank sound in a northerly direc-
tion for .3 miles, and thence in a general direction N.N.W. ^ W. (westerly)
for 18 miles, and thence N. ^ E. 6 miles to the head of Carter bay, with
an average width of one to 2 miles. The land on both aides is from 1 ,C00

381

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[CUAP. Z.

tc 3,000 feet high, the peaks closely approaching the shores and rising in a
precipitous manner from the water's edge. Unless where the vegetation
bus been denuded from the mountain sides by landslips, both shores are
thickly wooded, the pine and cedar predominating ; occasionally their dark
green foliage is relieved by the bright light groeu leaf of the maple.

Landmarks. — Stripe mountain lies at the south-east entrance to
Finlayson channel (see p. 375). The summit of Cone island (Bell peak),
together with two high waterfalls which fall into the sea on the south-east
side of Sarah island, are the principal landmarks of importance.

SouildingS. — A depth of 40 fathoms, rock, was found in mid-channel
abreast the north extreme of Cone island, but in the greater part of the
channel thei'e is no bottom at 153 fathoms.

Oscar passage, 4^ miles north of Low point, leads eastward out of
Finlayson channel, between Dowager and Koderick islands, and is about
one mile wide, and 6 miles long to its junction with Mathieson channcL
There is no bottom at 38 fathoms in mid-channel in Oscar passage.

BuUey bay, situated on the south shore of Oscar passage, miles
within its western entrance, though small, aflbrds temporary anc i in

15 fathoms, at one cable from the shore, and is occasionally used by ^.-usting
vessels.

Th.© Sisters, two small islets, lying 2 cables from the eastern shore
of Finlayson channel, 3| miles northward of Oscar passage, are wooded
and about 90 feet high. They lie north-west and south-east 4 cables from
each other, and are joined by ledges which uncover at low water.

NOWISH (Otter cove)* lies 5 cables northward of the Sisters
islets, between Indian and Susan islands. The entrance, northward of
Indian island, is 2 cables wide ; the cove then extends in a E.S.E. direction
for 5 cables, narrowing near its bead, to one cable wide, and having on its
north shore, about 4 cables within the cove, a ^mall bay, which affords
anchorage for small vessels in 10 to 14 fathoms, sandyr bottom, in the
middle of the bay.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Nowish cave, at 12h.0m. ;
springs rise 12 feet.

Jackson passage, an unexplored arm on the eastexii shore of the

channel, is 2 cables wide, and extends in an easterly direction from its ,

i - - ■ ■
entrance.

♦ See Admiralty Plan : — Nowish cove, on sheet of plans, No. 1462; scale, m
inches.

■MHMi

oiiAP. X.] FJNLATSON CHANNEL. — KLEMTOO PASSAGE. 385

Mary cove, situated on the eautern shore, 5^ miles northwiird of
the Sisters islets, is barely one cable wide at its entrance, and extends in a
northerly direction for 5 cables, terminating in a sandy beach. There aro
depths of 21 and 7 fathoms in mid-channel within this cove ; and at
2 cables southward, 130 fathoms, rock.

CONE ISLAND, on the western shore of Finlayson channel, is
3i miles long in a N.W. ^ N. and S.E. ^ S. direction, and about 5 cables
broad. The summit of this island, situated about one mile from its south
extreme, is conical in shape, 1,280 feet high ; the eastern and western sides
are abrupt and precipitous ; but the land slopes gently to the northward
terminating in Wedge point.

KLEMTOO PASSAGE,* between Cone and Swindle islands, is
about 3J miles long in a north-west and south-east direction, and in some
parts barely one cable wide. Its southern entrance, one cabin wide,
extends in a N.W. | W direction for about one mile ; thence in a general
direction N.W. | N. for 2^ miles, to abreast the north extreme of Jane
island. The depths in mid-channel are 10 and 30 fathoms, sand and
shells, with rock at intervals. Though nan'ow, this passage is safe
(provided a mid-channel course be kept), and affords anchorage almost
throughout.

AnchoragO, suitable to vessels of moderate length, will be found
north of Star islet, nearly in mid-channel, one cable from the shore of
Cone island, at 1^ miles within the eastern entrance, in 12 fathoms, sand
and shells.f

TidOS. — It is high water, full and change, in Klemtoo passage, at noon ;
springs rise 13 feet, neaps 8 feet, and the neaps range 3 feet. The tidal
streams are comparatively weak. The flood stream is but little felt, the
great body of water passing into Finlayson channel. The ebb seldom
exceeds the rate of one mile an hour.

South, passage, between Cone and Jane islands, is 5 cables wide,
with depths of 18 and •"? fathoms, rock.

Eelp patch, with only 5 to 12 feet over it, lies one cable to the south-
ward of Jane island, and is about one cable in extent in a south-east
nnd north-west direction.

Berry point (north side of Swindle island), seen just open of Legge point
(south side of Cone island) bearing S.S.E. | E., will lead southward and
■westward of Kelp patch.

"* <S'ee Admiralty plan : — Kleuitoo passage and anchorage, on sheet of plans.
No. 1,462 ; scale, m=4 inches.

t A vessel using this anchorage should be prepared for a foul anchor trhen weighing.
A 17498, B B

386

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

Wedge rock uncovers at low water, and lies 50 yards from the north
extreme of Cone island. , ,. ; . , rl ■

Ripple bank, with ll fathoms rocky bottom, lies nearly in mid-
channel of South passage.

NORTH PASSAGE, between Jane and Sarah islands, is o cables
wide, with depths from 22 fathoms to no bottom at 38 fathoms.

Danger patch., with one to 3 fathoms water over it, lies one cable
uoith-westward of Jane island.

Directions. — when proceeding through South passage, the south
shore sliould be kept on board, passing 2 cables northward of Cone island.
North passage is to be preferred to South passage when communicating
between Finlaysou and Tolmie channels. Keep nearer tlie north shore,
and pass 2 cables south of Sarah island.

JA^'^E ISLAND, situated 5 cables north-west of Cone island, is
about one mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and 6 cables broad. It
is low and wooded, the tops of the trees being 200 feet high.

Sarah, island, the south point of which is 6 cables northward of
Jane island, is 15 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and
one mile to 2^ miles broad. This island reaches its greatest elevation
of 2,000 feet at 4 miles from its south extreme. On the south-east
side of the island, at 7 miles from the south extreme, an unexplored
bay faces south-eastward, and at 3^ miles from the south extreme of Sarah
island, on its eastern shore, there are two high waterfalls.

Watson bay lies on the eastern side of Finlayson channel, 9 miles
northward of Sisters islets. This unexplored bay is one mile wide at its
entrance, and extends in an easterly direction.

Wallace bight lies 2^ miles northward of Watson bay. It is one
mile wide at its entrance, and takes a northerly direction for one mile.
There is no bottom at 106 fathoms, between its entrance points.

Ooat cove, situated 4 miles northward of Wallace bight, is 5 cables
wide, and extends in an easterly direction for 5 cables, terminating
in a sandy beach. There are depths of 23 to 34 fathoms within this cove,
the former being close to the hea i.

Sheep passage is nearly one mile wide, and leads eastward from
Finlayson channel, just south of Carter bay. At 3 miles within its
western entrance, it trends northward until its junction with Mussel
inlet.

MUSSEL INLET, which has not been explored since Vfincouver's
visit in 1793, takes a N.N.W. direction for about 5 miles, when it suddenly

' r

CHAK X.] OAHTER BAY. — HIE KISH NARROWS. 387

tums to the eastward for about the same distance, terminating in Poison
cove.* It is stated to have the same general characteristics as the other
inlets. . ...... ,

CART!ER BAY.f — This excellent stopping place lies at the head
of Finlaypon channel, 26 miles within its entrance, and is easily recognised
< iv, by the high cliffs on its western shore. The bay is 4 cables wide at its ■

entrance, abreast the anchorage ground, and about 6 cables deep in a
northerly direction, the head terminating in a largo stream, fronted by an
extensive flat. This stream takes a north-easterly direction for about one
mile, to the foot of a waterfall, at the entrance of a lake.

Anchorage will be found in 14 to 15 fathoms, mud bottom, at
1^ cables from the eastern shore, and 2 cables from the sand flat at the
head of tho bay; with the entrance points of the bay bearing S.E. | S.
and S.S.W. ^ W. respectively.

Supplies. — Water can be obtained from the large stream at the head
of the bay, which is probably one of the best watering places along
the coast. Trout abound in the fr^3h-water stream. Tracks of bear and
deer were seen on the shore. Wild fowl frequent Carter bay. Shell fish,
of whatever kind, should not be eaten.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Carter bay at noon ;
springs rise 13 feet. ..^j ^— . ., • ,

HIE KISH NABROWS lie northward of Sarah island, and
lead from Finlayson channel into Graham reach. This channel is
about 5^ miles long, in a general N.W. and S.E. direction, and from
2^ cables to one mile wide. The western part of Hie Kish narrows lies
about half a point more west and east than the eastern part. The depths
in the narrows are 31 and 73 fathoms in mid-channel, with a bottom of
sand and shells. • ,. ,„, ,, . .

Hewitt rock, a dangerou? sunken ro^k with only 10 feet over it, and
deep water close to, lies . i the western entrance of Hie Kish narrows
nearly in mid-channel.

The north shore of the channel .should be kept on bojud when
navigating the western portion of Hie Kish narrows. The south

♦ So named bj Vancouver, owing to several of the crew of the Discovery being poisoned
by eating mussels found there.

t See Admiralty plan : — Carter bay, en Bhet^t of plans, No. 1901 ; Bcale,m = 4 inches.
It was so named by Vancouver, from a seaman of the Discovery, named John
Carter, having died here in June 1793, from eating poisonous mussels (at I'oison cove).
Tee mussels, however, were saiu to have been gathered on the sand ijai not on the rocks
(Vancouver's Voyages, Vol. II., pp. 285-6). ,

B B 2

mmmmm

388

MILBANl- JOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

point of Carter bay, seen just open of the north extreme of Sarah islaud,
bearing S.E, | E., leads northward of Hewitt rock,

TOLMIE CHANNEL, situated between Princess Royal and Sarah
islands, is about 15 miles long in a general N.N.W, and S.S.E. direction,
and from one-half to one mile wide, with deptiis of from 35 fathoms to no
bottom at 104 fathoms. From a position in mid-channel abreast the north
end of Jane island, Tolmic channel extends N.W. ^ N. for 5 miles, to
abreast a small islet on the north shore, thence N.N.W. for 10 miles, to
its junction with i^'raser reach.

On the west shore, 2^ miles northward of south point of Sarah island,
an extensive arm takes a southerly direction, and is reported to com-
municate with Laredo sound. Abreast the north-eastern point of this
inlet, a small islet lies close to the shore of Sarah island.

Caution. — The northern reach of Tolmie channel looks directly into
this inlet, care is therefore necessary when approaching from the northward
not to mistake this unexplored arm for the reach leading to Klemtoo
passage.

At 2 miles northward of the above-mentioned inlet, on the west
shore of Tolmie channel, lies another unexplored paosage, facing the
south-east.

Tolmie rock, on which is only 4 feet water, lies 100 yards from
the shore of Sarah island, at 5 cables within the northern entrance of
the Tolmie channel.

DirOCtions. — Tolmie channel, though not so wide as Finlayson
channel, is preferable in some respects, especially if compelled to be under
way at night. A mid-channel course should be steered throughout
except when navigating the northern part of the channel, when the west
shore should be neared to avoid Tolmie rock.

Tides. — The flood stream sets to the northward, and is stronger in
'Finlayson than in Tolmie channel. The ebb, however, is stronger in
Tolmie channel, and runs for Ijj hours after the ebb has ceased iu Fiulayson
channel. In the narrow parts ol these channels, both flood and ebb streams
attain a velocity of d knots an hour at springs.

In Klemtoo passage, the AockI stream is but little felt, the great body
of water piwsing into Finlayson cbaunol. The ebb stream seldom exceeds
the rate of one mile an hour.

GRAHAM REACH, situated northward of the junction of Tolmie
channel with HIp Kish narrows;, is about 17 miles long, in a general N.W.
by N . and S.E. by S. direction, and from one-half to one mile broad, with
depths of 38 fathoms, rock, and 1 50 fathoms, sand ami shells. From the
north-west extreme of Sarah igknd this reach takes a N.W. by N,

•1 >'

CHAP. X.]

TOLMIE CHANNEL. — GBAHAM REACH.

389

1 1^'

(northerly) direction for 7 miles, to abreast Swanson hay, thence it takes a
N.W. ^ N. direcfion for 10^ miles to abreast Red cliff point. In general
features this reach resembles Finlayson channel.*

Green inlet lies on the north shore, 2 miles northward of Sarah
island. This unexplored arm takes an easterly direction at its entrance.

Flat point lies on the west shore, 3 miles westward of Green inlet.
This point is wooded, flat, and comparatively low. Abreast Flat point,
on the south shore of the channel, is a remarkable large boulder rock.

Dangers. — There are no known dangers at one cable from the shore
in this reach.

SWANSON BAY lies on the north shore, 7 miles from Sarah
island. There is a conspicuous waterfall on the south shore of the channel
abreast Swanson bay.f

Anchorage may bo obtained in 19 fathoms, sandy bottom, in the
northern part of Swanson bay, with the conspicuous waterfall on the south
short' shut in with the north entrance point, and Flat point shut in with
the south entrance point of the bay.

Klmtze is an unexplored arro, on the north shore, 6 miles westward
of Swanson bay. It is 5 cables wide, and lies in a N.E. by E. direction
from its entrance.

• Anchorage is reported by Indians at the head of this inlet.

Aaltanhash •? lothcr inlet on the north shore, unexamined by the
Admiralty Survey, 2 naks westward of Khutze. In size ami direction it
is similar to Khutze, and is reported by Indians to afford anchorage.

Tides. — The tides meet abruist Aaltanhash inlet.

Red cliff point, the turning point into I'raser reach, lies on the
south shore, 17^ miles from Sarah island. This p iiit terminates in a
conspicuous cliff of a reddish brown colour ; id is a good landmark.

FRASER REACH, the channel norih-westward of Grahnra reach
is 12^ miles long in a general W. by I^. and E. by S. direction, and one
half to 1^ miles wide, with depths of (52 fathom , rock, to no bottom at
145 tathoms. In features it resembles Finlayson (^hannel.

Warke island is l^ miles long in an cast « nd west direction, and
half a mile broail. The east extreme of this island lies one mile W.N.W.
from Red cliff point. The channel on both sides of the island is deep, but
that to the south is slightly the wider. There is a bay on the south shore

* At 5^ miloR north-west of the north poiDt of Sarah island and close to the western
shore of Graham reach is a sniull low islet.

t In very dry summers this is reduced to a very small size, and even occasionally
ceases altogccher.

mmmmmm

390

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [chap. x.

of tlio chanael, abreast Warke island, at the head of which is a fine trout
stream, communicating with a large lake. Fraser reach from abreast
Warke island takes a W. by N. direction for 5 miles, thence W.N.W. for
6 miles to abreast Kiugcombe point.

Elekailie, an unexamined arm on the north shore, abreast Warke
island, is 5 cables wide, and takes a N.W. direction from its entrance.
Approaching from the south-eastward this ai-m appears tia the continuation
of Griiham reach.

Ancliorage n^ay, from Indian report, be obtained at the head of
Klekane inlet.

Landslip point lies on the north shore, 4 miles westward of Warke
island. Over this point is a remarkable landslip.*

KingCOmbe point, the turning point into McKay reach, lies on
the south shore 12 miles from Red cliff point. The point is long, sharp,
and conspicuous. , . . ; -.liu,

McKAY REACH leads westward from Fraser reach into Wright
sound, is about 8 miles long in a general W.S.W. and E.N.E. direction,
and from one mile to 2 miles wide ; there is no bottom in mid-channel at
139 and 225 fathoms, the latter depth being found at 2 cables southward
of Cumming point.

From mid-channel abreast Kingcombe point, the reach takes a W.S.W.
direction for 4 miles to abreast Trivett point; thence a S.W. by W.
direction for 4 miles to abreast Cumming point. Westward of Kingcoube
point, a deep bay lies on the Bouth shore, between Kingcombe and Trivett
points.

The land on the north shore of the channel is high and bold, with
mountains 3,000 feet high. The land on the south shore is not so high ;
and near the summits of the mountains are some extensive bare patches
of slate colour.

GRIBBELL ISLAND, the shores of which have not been
surveyed in detail, is of somewhat rectangular form, about 11 miles long
(north and south), and 7 miles wide. The Wimbledon mountains, along
its south Gho'^e, are from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high.

URSULA CHANNEL. — Between Pilot point, the south-east
pci'nt of Gribbell island, and Fisherman cove, on the opposite shore, is the
entrance to Ursula channel which skirts the eas* side of Gribbell island
for about 7 miles. Its shores are composed of steep lofty mountains rising
abruptly from the sea, and covered with jiines and forest trees.

* "This landslip is now so much giown over, as not to be moro conspicuous than
others near it."— Lieutenant E. L. Lang, R.N., II.M.S. Mutine, 1883.

CHAP. X.-] FRASER AND MCRAY REACHES ; GARDNER CANAL. 391

FiSi^erman cove, on the east shore at the entrance to Ursula
channel, affords indiiFerent anchorage in 30 fathoms, with the south point
of the bay (a clump which is connected to the shore by a sandy neck
covered at high water) bearing S. ^ W. Vessels anchoring here must
feel their way with the deep sea lead as the water shoals very suddenly from
30 fathoms to 12 fathoms, the latter depth being at about 25 yards from the
shore. A small stream flows into the head of the cove, off which a shoal
extends some distance, its edge being very steep.*

At 2^ miles northward from Fisherman cove is a small inlet where a
hot spring was discovered. The colour and taste of which resembled vne
waters at Cheltenham, f

Boxer roach, the continuation of Ursula channel in a W.N.W.
direction along the north-east and north sides of Gribbell island, is about
6 miles long. On its north shore good anchorage may be found in
the north-west part of Bishop cove in from 15 to 20 fathoms. '

Bishop cove is a very good anchorage, and is formed by a narrow
neck of sand running out from the land terminated by a clump covered
with trees, similar to that at Fisherman's cove. H.M.S. Devastation
anchored on the north-west side of it, with the clump bearing E.S.E.
distant about one-third of a mile. The water shoals gradually up to
the sandy neck and a vessel might go into 15 fathoms.

There appears to be anchorage on the south-east side of the sandy neck,
but the beach runs out shoal a long way on that side.J

Verney passage, along the west shore of Gribbell island, takes
a northerly direction from Money island, off its west entrance point,
for about 8 miles, and communicates with Boxer reach ; its shores have
not been surveyed.

DEVASTATION CHANNEL.— From the junction of Verney
passage anr. Boxer reach dt the north point of Gribbell island, the channel
continues northward along the cast side of Hawkesburj" island for a distance
of 20 miles, and is known as Devastation channel : its shores have not
been sur\'eyed. •

GARDNER CANAL, the entrance to which is on the east
side of Devastation channel, about midway along it, turns off at Staniforth

* A very indifferent anchorage, barely room for the ship to swing should the wind
come from the northward. The stream which flows into the head of the cove kept the
vessel from swinging in. — Commander J, NicoUs, H.N., H.M.S. Cormorant, November
1886.

t Vancouver's Voyages, Vol. ii., p. 299.

% Remark book of Mr. F O. Simpson, Master H.M.S. Devastation, 1863.

302

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

point to the eastward, in which direction it continues, with many
sinuosities, for upwards of 45 miles. " The land is an entirely barren
" waste, nearly destitute of wood and verdure, appearing as a mass of
" almost naked rocks rising to rugged mountains whose towering summits
" appearing to overhang their bases give them a tremendous appearance,
" covered with perpetual ice and snow."* Its shores h.vve not been gur-
veyed in detail, but there is reported to be anchorage :»n either side of
Richardson point, on the south shore (south-east of Channel island),
about 6 miles from the entrance, in from 18 to 5 fathoniS ; and also at
Kemano bay on the north shore, 20 miles farther up, but here the
anchorage is said to be indifferent, as the water is deep and shoals
very rapidly from no bottom at 25 fathoms to 3 fathoms. A vessel may
anchor in Kemano bay in 15 fathoms with Green point bearing S. by W.
and Entrance bluff S.E. \ S., but great caution is required in picking up
a berth, and when entering vessels should keep over towards the eastern
entrance point (Entrance bluff), as shoal water extends for some distance
from the opposite point.

The Kemano river flows through an extensive valley into the head of
Kemano bay, and is a stream of some size, navigable in the summer by
canoes for a distance of 8 miles from its mouth. Kemano bay is frequented
by the Kitlup Indians during the houli jan fishing season ; their village,
however, is at the head of the inlet. Bears are reported to be abundant iu
the Kemano valley, and mountain sheep in the mountains, but a scarcity
of deer. Firewood can be obtained from the Indians »> a moderate price.

In the winter months ice forms at 25 miles from the head of Gardner
canal.

Tides. — It is said to be high water, at full and change, in Kemano
bay at 1 hr. p.m. (June) ; springs rise about 9 feet. >

Kitimait Erm. — From the north end of Hawkesbury island the
inlet continues in to a northerly direction for a fiuther distance of
about 17 miles to about lat. 54° 2' N., where it is terminated by
a border of low land with a shallow flat extending from side to side,
through which a small rivulet discharges itself at the eastern corner,
navigable only for canoes. This termination differs in some respects from
many of the others ; its shores are not very abrupt but are bounded on each
side by a range of lofty mountains, which, however, aienot (as is constantly
the case) connected at the head of the arm, but continue apparently in
a direction parallel to each other. The valley betwt;en them, which is
3 or 4 miles wide, being (;overed with trees, mostly of the pine tribe.t Two

* Vancouv?r'ft Viyagrs, Vol. ii., p. 302.
f Vancouver's Vo/apes, Vol. ii., p. 304.

ilM

tim

CHAP. X.]

GARDNER CANAL. — WRIGHT SOUND.

393

Indian villages of the Kitimat tribe are situated near the head of this
arm.

Clio bay, on the east shore of the Kitimat arm, has been visited ou
several occasions by H.M. ships for the purpose of communicating with
the Kitimat Indians, and affords anchorage in 17 fathoms.

Kildala arm extends in an E.N.E. direction for about 10 miles,
branching off from the east side of Kitimat arm at about 11 miles from
its head.

DOUGLAS CHANNEL, which extends along the west shore of
Hawkesbury island for upwards of 25 miles in a northerly direction,
leading into the Kitimat arm at its junction with Devastaticm channel, has
not been surveyed, " It is about 3 miles broad, and the ehores are very
high."* Kit kia tah, an unexplored inlet, branches o£E from the west
side of Douglas channel in a south-westerly direction at 6 miles from
Money point, its south-east entrance point. Small vessels may anchor in
5 fathoms half a mile within Kit kia tah inlet.

WRIGHT SOUND, a sheet of water 9 miles long in an east
and west direction, and 2\ miles wide at its narrowest part, lies between
Gribbell and Gil islands, with no bottom at 119 and 220 fathoms.

It communicates eastward with McKay reach, and westward with
Grenville channel. Whale channel and Lewis passage lead southward,
and Douglas channel and Verney passage lead northward from Wright
sound.

Landmarks. — Gil island on tb^ pouth side of the sound culminates
in a well defined snow-clad peak 3,000 t'e\^-t high. {See page 445.)

The mountains north-eastward of Holmes bay have bnre patches down
their sides. ' . - . . -

Directions. — in thick weather, when the shores are almost obscured
to the water's edge, Wright sound, with its diflferent openings, north and
south, makes a veiy perplexing picture to a stranger. Under such
circumstances it is well to remember that a due West course leads across
the sound from McKay reach to Gienville channel; the distance from
point Cuming to Yolk point being just 7^ miles.

Promise island, on the north side of the sound, with its two dome-
shaped mountains, and cape Farewell, the south-east extreme of the

island, are conspicuous.

•I
HOLMES BAY (Quel ak se ax),t situated on the eastern shore

of Wright sound at the entrance of Whale channel, is 8 cables wide at its

* Remark book of Mr. F. 0. Simpson, Master, H.M.S. Devastation, 1863.

t See Admiralty plan :— Holmes bay, on sheet, No. 1,901 ; scale, m = 5*5 inches.

394

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[OHAP. X.

entrance, and recedes in an easterly direction for about 4 cables, termi-
nating in a sand flat, which extends one cable from the head of the bay.

The north entrance point is high and bold, and a small islet lies off the
south entrance point of the bay.

Anchorage will be found in 14 fathoms, sand, with the south
extreme of Promise island in line with the north point of the bay, bearing
W. by N. ^ N. ; and Gil mountain in line with the south entrance point,
S.W. by W.

Tides. — It is high water, full aud change, in Holmes bay at 1 h. ;
springs rise 13 feet, neaps 10 feet.

Fishermail cove was the name given by Vancouver to an anchor-
age ouo mile eastward of Turtle point, close to the shore of Gil island.
The water is deep, and the anchorage reported indifferent. , ,^

PROMISE ISLAND, at the south end of Douglas channel, is
3 J miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, with an extreme breadth
of 2 miles ; it is covered with pine and cedar, and culminates in two
peaks of dome-shape, 1,680 and 1,710 feet high respectively. Cape
Farewell, the south-east extreme of the island, terminates in a high, bold
cliif. A conspicuous white cliff lies on the south shore, midway between
cape Farewell and Thom point. • ,, , ; ,

The east shore of the island is high, with an occasional bay with a sandy
beach at its head. Dawson point, the north extreme, is low and wooded.

Farewell ledge uncovers at low water, and extends 2 cables south-
east from cape Farewell. This ledge is nearly steep-to, there being no
bottom at 40 fathoms at 30 yards from it. Ledges extend one cable from
the eastern shore of Promise island.

Dawson ledge extends 2 cables northward from Dawson point, and

uncovers at half ebb. • v^ ' ^. . ■

COGHLAN ANCHORAGE,* between the mainland and
Promise island, situated about one mile westward of cape Farewell, is 3
cables wide at its entrance between Camp and Thom points, and extends in
a north-west direction for 2 miles, widening within the entrance to 4 cables.

Thom ledge extends 100 yards south-west of Thom point (the
eastern entrance point of Coghlan anchorage).

Promise ledge extends so yards from Promise point.

Observatory lodge extends lOO yards eastward of Observation
point.

♦ See Admirait} plan : — Coghlan anchorage, on sheet of plans, No. 2,189; scale,
m =: 3*25 inches.

CHAP. X.] PROMISE ISLAND. — COGHLAN ANCHORAGE. 395

Ha/rbour rock is a dangerous rock of small extent, which uncovers
6 feet at low water, and lies nearly in mid-channel near the head of the
harbour. This rock is nearly steep-to, there being depths of 10 and 18
fathoms at 100 feet from the rock.

Gil mountain seen in line with Thom point, bearing S.E. ^ E., will
lead north-east ; and Camp point (west entrance point of Coghlan anchor-
age) seen just open of Observation point, bearing S.E. \ S., will lead
westward of Harbour rock.

Otter shoal extends 100 yards from the western shore at the head
of the anchorage, with depths of 3 fathoms and less upon it.

Soundings. — Southward of Observation point there are depths of
24 to 40 fathoms ; northward of that point 19 to 7 fathoms, sand.

AnclloragO in 6 to 7 fathoms sand, will be found near the head of
Cloghlan anchorage, with Gil mountain jusj shut in with Thom point,
bearing S.E., and Stephens point just open of Letitia point (Stewart
narrows) bearing N.E. by N, Or, for a long vessel, or if not wishing
to go beyond Harbour rock, a berth, in 24 fathoms, in mid-channel, at
5 cables south-east of Observation point, may be found.

Directions. — When entering keep in mid-channel, to avoid the
ledge which uncovers off Thom point, and proceed to the anchorage with
the leading mark above given for clearing Harbour rock on astern ; and
anchor as before dii-ected.

Stewart Narrows lead northward of Promise island into Douglas
channel. The tides in this passage are strong, and the channel confined;
it is therefore not recommended. . /

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Coghlan anchorage at
Oh. 30m.; springs rise 18 feet, neaps l^ feet.

Tidal streams. — The flood stream nliich enters Campania sound
from the southward, divides off Passage island, and the main body of
water passes up Squally channel. The lesser body, passing into Whale
channel, skirts the north shore of Gil island, and unites, at one mile
northward of Turtle point, Avith the main body of water which has
entered Wright sound by Lewis passage. The flood stream from that
position, sets directly across Wright sound, and impinging on Camp point
causes very strong eddies off that point, and is then deflected towai'da
Grenville channel.

A portion of the flood stream by Whale channel turns into McKay reach,
and meets, abreast of Aaltanhash inlet, the flood stream from the Finlayson
channel. Another portion proceeds into Douglas channel and Verney
passage. On the ebb, the reverse takes place, the main body of water from
Wright sound obtaining an exit by Whale channel.

396

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[CIUP. X.

The ebb streams from Wright sound, Douglas channel, and McKay
reach, unite nearly midway between Maple point and Holmes bay, setting
directly towards the latter, producing strong eddies at the mouth of
Holmes bay. Thence the stream sets fairly through Whale channel, and
passing north and south of Passage island, unites with the stream of
Squally channel, and nnited they pass out into Campania sound.

Both flood and ebb streams attain the velocity of 3 knots an hour, at
springs, in the contracted portions of the channels.

GRENVILLE CHANNEL leads north-westward out of Wright
sound, and is the usual channel taken by steam vessels when proceeding
to the northern waters of British Columbia.

At its south-east end Grenvllle channel abreast Yolk point is 8 caldcs
wide, thence it extends in a W. by N. J^ N. direction for 4 miles to
abreast Davenport point, with an average wid h of one mile. From this
point the channel takes a W.N.W. direction f ( i* 11 miles, and narrows to
3 cables as Lowe inlet is approached, seldom exceeding 4 cables in width
until north-westward of Evening point (Klewnuggit). From a position
in mid-channel one mile westward of Lowe inlet, Grenville channel
takes a N.W. by W. J W. direction, for 7 miles to abreast Evening point,
thence it widens out to one and 3 miles ; and extends W.N.W. for
23 miles, to abreast Ogden channel. The depths in Grenville channel are
48 to 133 fathoms, rock.

The land on both sides is high, reaching an elevation of 3,500 feet
on the north, and from 1,000 to 2,000 feet on the south shore j and for the
most part is densely wooded with pine and cedar.

The mountains rise almost perpendicularly from the water, and cause
the southern portion of this narrow channel to appear even narrower than
it is (3 cables). But the general effect of so many mountains rising one
behind the other, rendei's the Grenville passage one of the most beautiful
landscapes on this coast ; and is equalled only by Klemtoo passage.*

Grenville channel is comparatively free from danger, at half a cablo
from either shore, with the following exception : —

Morning reefs extend N.W. by W. nearly one mile from Evening
point, and 5 cables from the north shore of Nabanhah bay. The south
shore of Grenville channel must be kept on board when passing Morning
reefs.

Bare islet (north side of Klewnuggit inlet) kept open of Camp point
(south side of that inlet) bearing N.E. ^ E. will lead westward of Morning
reefs.

* The tides in Grenville channel are weak, in most parts not exceeding one knot ; the
flood stream from the northward meeting that from the southward ahreast Nabanhah bay.

The only directions necessary for navigating Grenville channel are to keep in mid-
channel, except when passing Nabanhah bay, and then the south, or Pitt island, ehore
should be kept on board.

ciiAP.x.] GRENVILLi: CHANNEL. — LOWE INLET. 397

LOWE INIiET,* situated on the north shore of GrenviUo channel,
about 14 miles from Wriglit sound, is a little over 2^ cables wide at its
entrance between James and Hepburn points. From mid-channel, between
the entrance points, the inlet extends in a N. by W. direction for 5 cables ;
thence N.N.E. for 6 cables to the mouth of Nettle basin, and widens to
4 cables.

Nettle basin is nearly circular in shape, and is 5 cables across; but
between its entrance points the basin is barely one cable wide.

In the north-east oornt-r of Nettle basin is a large stream, with a
waterfall close to its mouth, and several others within (Verney falls).
This stream is reported to be connected by a chain of lakes with
Kit kia tah inlet (Douglas channel).!

Landmarks. — On the south shore, at 2 miles eastward of Lowe
inlet there is a remarkable bare hill, 400 feet high.

Tom islot, a small and wooded islet, lies close to the north shore, at
2 cables wos^tward of Lowe inlet.

On the south side of the inlet a remarkable mountain, with a conical
summit (Anchor cone), rises to the height of 2,010 feet. From its summit,
the land slopes northward and south-westward. The latter spur terminates
in the eastern entrance point of Lowe inlet ; and when seen from the east-
ward, appears as a long, low, wood* 1 projection. Over the north-west shore
of the inlet, mountains with bare summits rise to the height of 2,000 feet.

High-water rocks, situated one cable from the western shore, at
4 cables within Lowe inlet, are awash at high water, and lie close to each
other in a north and south direction. There is a depth of 23 fathoms, at
100 feet eastward of the i-ocks.

Don flat, with depths of 3 fathoms and less upon it, extends one
cable from the head of the bay south of Don point, on the eastern shore.

Whiting bank, at 2 cables within the mouth of Lowe inlet, has
depths of 10 fathoms and less on it extending across the entrance. North-
ward of that position the water deepens to 19 and 20 fathoms, mud.
Within Nettle basin, the general depths are 15 to 17 fathoms, mud.

Anchorage for vessels of moderate length will be found, in mid-
channel, on Whiting bank, in 8 and 10 fathoms, sand and shells. In this
position, Anchor cone mountain should bear E. by N. ; and the eastern

♦ See Admiralty plan : — Lowe inlet, on sheet of plans, No. 2,189 ; scale, i« = 3-75
inches.

■f About one mile and a half from Lowe inlet, on the Pitt island sliore of Gren^nlle
channel, is an unexamined cove.

398

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[CIUP. X.

entriincc point of the harbour (Hepburn point) S.E. by S. For n long
vessel, more convenient anchorage will bo found higher up the harbour,
in mid-channel, in 20 fathoms, mud bottom, witli Anchor cone mountain
bearing S.E. by E.

Supplies. — Good water can be procured in Lowe inlet, from the
stream in Nettle basin. Trout may be caught in that stream, and clams
are found on the flat at the eastern shore of Nettle basin. Whiting, in
abundance, may he caught on Whiting bank.

Edible nettles grow on the shores of the basin, and are useful as an
antiscorbutic when cooked.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Lowe ialet at Oh, 30m. ;
springs rise 17 foet; neaps 15 feet.

KLEWNUGGIT INLET* lies 9^ miles westward of Lowe inlet,
on the north shore of Grenville channel, and one mile westward of Evening
point, Tiie entrance between Camp point (south shore), and Leading islard
is 4 cables wide, and thence the inlet takes an easterly direction for 4 cables,
and there divides ; the longer arm (Exposed arm) extends in a south-
easterly direction for 3 miles, and terminates iq a swamp fronted by a sand
flat. The shorter arm takes a north-west direction for 1^ miles, passing
northward of Leading island, and is 2^ cables wide. "

With the exception of Morning reefs (see page 396), Klewnuggit inlet
has no dangers beyond one cable from the shore.

Soundings. — The water in Exposed arm is deep, there being no
bottom at 38 fathoms. In the north-west arm there are depths of 15 and
24 fathoms, mud bottom.

Anchorage va&j be obtained in the north-west arm (Ship anchorage)
in 15 to 20 fathoms, mud bottom, in mid- channel, at one cable from either
shore.

Directions. — Entering Klewnuggit inlet, having cleared Morning
reefs (see page 396), keep in mid-channel between Camp point and Leading
island. Pass 2 cables south-east of the latter, and anchor on its north side
in Ship anchorage. In this position the south-east extreme of Leading
island should be seen in line with a conspicuous cliff of purple colour, on
the south shore of Exposed arm, bearing South.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Klewnuggit anchorage
at Oh. 30m.; springs rise 17 feet.

'*' See Admiralty plan: — Klewnuggit inlet, on sheet of plans, No. 2,189; scale,
me3-75 inches. ,, ..

CHAP. X.] KLEWNUGGIT INLET. — STUART ANCHORAGE. 399

STUART ANCHORAGE,* situated on the south shore of
Orenvillo channel, 25^ miles westward of Lowe inlet, lies 5 cables westward
of a long, low, wooded projection, which serves to distinguish it.

Stag rock uncovers 13 feet at low water, and lies 4 cables W. by
N. ^ N. from the above-mentioned point. This rock has foul ground
extending from it 4 cables in a W.N.W. direction, and a small patch, which
uncovers at low water, lies one cable south from the rock.

The whole of this foul ground is indicated by kelp during summer and
autumn.

AnchoragO will be found in 10 to 15 fathoms, rock, W.'J S. 2 cables
from Stag rock ; with the south extreme of Gibson island seen touching
the north side of Pitt island (Calvert point) bearing W.N.W. northerly.

Directions. — Proceeding for this anchorage, especially at high
water, care is necessary. Pass 2 cables westward of the foul ground
extending from the Stag rock, and anchor when at one cable to the
southward.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Stuart anchorage at
Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 17 feet.

The tidal streams meet abreast Evening point ; eastward of that po'*"t
the flood approaches from the eastward, and westward of the point from
the westward.

At springs the flood stream in the narrow portions of Grenvillo
channel attains the velocity of 2 knots, and the ebb 4 knots an hour.
The latter stream continues to run for 1^ hours after low water by the
shore. Abreast Lowe inlet, strong eddies will be felt on the ebb.

False Stuart anchorage lies on the south shore 3 miles east-
ward of Stuart anchorage. On its north-west side there is a high, bold,
projection. This point should serve to distinguish False Stuart anchorage
from Stuart anchorage, as the latter has a long, low, projection on its
south-east side. The water is deep, close to the shore.

Exn geal, fiQ unexplored inlet on the north shore, 5 cables westward
of Evening point, is 5 cables wide at its entrance, and takes a north-west
direction.

A rock which uncovers lies 2 cables south-east of the north-west entrance
point of Kxn geal inlet.

At the distance of 6 miles W.N.W. from Kxn geal is Baker inlet with a
narrow opening, but apparently quite extensive within, and in an easterly
direction; a small islet or rock lies in the entrance. From this in a west and

* See Admiralty plan :— 'Stuart anchorage, on sheet of plans, No. 1,901 ; scale,
m = 6 iochea. . . , ,

.lb^iU^dkJ.Lj^'^'>M^iu^'..'.~

-.wmMgi^^ismm

400

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

south-westerly direction nearly 3 miles is a naiTow but deep opening,
which from Grenviile channel appears to cut Pitt island in two, and may
join the eastern arm of Petrel channel.*

Eum ea Ion, an unexplored inlet on the north shore, abreast of False
Stuart anchorage, has an entrance 2 cables wide, and takes a northerly
direction. Some small islets lie near the north shore of Grenviile channel
westward of Kum-ea-lon inlet.

G-ibSOn islands, a group, situated in the western portion of Grenviile
channel, at its confluence with Ogden channel, consists, of one large island
160 feet high, about one mile in extent, and wooded, and several smaller
islets and rocks ; the shores of the larger island are broken into several
bays. On the east side of the large island is Bloxham island, of small
extent, and Lamb islet lies one cable from the north-east phore.

W^atSOn rock uncovers 18 feet at low water springs, and lies 2 cables
distant from tho south shore of the large Gibson island. There is a depth
of 47 fathoms, rock, at one cable south of Watson rock.

Bloxham shoal extends 6 cables north-eastward from the south-east
extreme of Bloxham island, and passes northward of Gibson islands at that
distance, with depths of one to 3 fathoms water over it.

GUNBOAT HARBOUR, between Gibson and Bloxham islands,
m a iiall harbour, which faces the south-east, affording temporary an-
chorage to small vessels, in 4 to 10 fathoms, one cable within the entrance,
in mid-channel.

Bedford island, of small extent, lies 5 cables N.N.W. from the
larger Gibson island.

Bedford spit extends 3 cables south-west from Bedford island. The
channel between Bedford and Gibson islands has depths of 4 fathoms and
less in it ; this passage is not recommended.

M arrack island lies 5 cables N.N.W. of Bedford island, and is
one mile in extent. •

Marrack rock, which uncovers, lies nearly in mid-channel between
Bedford and Marrack islands.

Port Fleming. — Between Marrack, Bedford, and Gibson islands,
nnd the mainland eastward of them there is a good harbour named port
Fleming, of even soundings, from 3 to 7 fathoms, with muddy bottom, and
very little tide. Captain Madden, an old trader and pilot, stated that he
always found this harbour good, well sheltered from winds, and free from
currents and soa.

* United States Pacific Coast Survey, 1883.

■^ppHf^^tl^lIM .^WI"»'»v'F»?"r%t»»''T«'V'»^n'y'

CHip.x.] GUNBOAT HARBOUR.— KENNEDY ISLAND.

401

The approacli to port Fleming from the north is by Arthur passage.

Good anchorage is reported on west side of Smith island, opposite
mount McGrath.

KENNEDY ISLAND* is 5^ miles long in a north-west and
south-east direction, with an average breadth of 3 miles, is wo«.aed, rising
gradually, and culminates near the middle iu two conspicuous peaks,
2,765 and 2,470 feet high respectively. The westorn and southern ohores
of Kennedy island are bold, and little broken ; the northern shores have
not been examined in detail.

Cardoua bay, is an open bay on the south-east side of Kennedy
island, and is skirted by a mud bank, which extends over 5 cables from
the shore, with depths of o to 10 fathoms upon it.

In Ma)' 1880 there weie three houses, a wharf, and an Indian summer
village, and also a supply of wood for steamers at this place, which is called
Inverness or Aberdeen fishery.

It is a »ood temporary stopping place iu case of foga or darkness on
reaching Chatham sound.

AnchoragO may be found on the bank, in 7 to 8 fathoms good
holding-ground, at 3 cables from the shore of Kennedy island ; and it is the
best anchorage in the vicinity of Skeena river, sheltered from North and
S.E.

Lewis island, situated one mile southward of Kennedy island, is low,
wooded, narrow, and 2^ miles long, in a north-west and south-east
direction.

ARTHUR PASSAGE, between Kennedy and Lewis islands, is
about 5 miles long, in a general north-west and south-eaat diioctiou, and
about one mile wide, with depths of 18 to 63 fathoms, mud.

Herbert reefs h'e on the western side of Arthur passage, about
4 cables from the north-east extreme of Lewis island, and 6 cables distant
from Kennedy island. This dangerous reef cons'ists of two rocks whicli
uncover at low water, with depths of 7 and 9 fathoms between them, lying
north-west and south-east, distant 5 cabhis from each other. There are
depths of 37 fathoms and over at one cable northward, and of 20 fathoms
at one cable southward of Herbert reefs.

The eastern and smaller Gcnn island seen in lino with the south extreme
of Wliite Cliff island, bearing N.W. ^ V.'., leads northward of Herbert
reefs.

* iSee AtlinirHlly plaa:
A 17408.

-Brown nud E«lye passageH, No. 2.453 ; scale, »i= 1 inch.

402

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

LAWSON HARBOUR on the north-west side of Lewis island,
is about 5 cables long in a north-west ami ■'outh-east direction, and
5 cables wide.

Anchorage for small vessels may be found in 4 fathoms water, in
mid-cliunnel, about one cable within Lawson harbour.

£!lliott island, nortli-west of Lewis island, is low and wooded ; about
1^ miles long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, with a greatest breadth
of three-fl[uarter8 of a mile.

BlOXam passage, between Lewis and Elliott islands, and connecting
Arthur and Chismore passages, is about 2 cables wide, with a depth of
21 fathoms in raid-channel.

Elizabeth island lies westward of Elliott island, is nearly 3 miles
long in a W.N, VV. and E.S.E. direction, with an average breadth of three-
quarters of a mile. With lite exception of a hill, 334 feet high, near its
eastern end, this island is low and wooded.

Baxnfiold Islands, a group of small islets, lie about one quarter of
a mile from the northern shore of Elizabeth island ; 3 cables eastward
fi*om these islands are some reefs. A deep but narrow passage exists
between Bamfield island? and the reefs.

CHISMORE PASSAGE, between Porcher island on the south
and LcAvis, Elliott, and Elizabeth islands to the north, is about 4 miles long
in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and i"'ora 2 to 5 cables wide, with
depths of 4 to 21 fathoms, mud. It is obstructed by foul ground at its
south-eastern end, and is only accessible for ships by Bloxham passage, a
narrow channel leading into Arthur passage between Lewis and Elliott-
islands.

Kelp passage, between Lewis and Porcher islands, is available only
for boats.

Elizabeth rock, which tmcovers at low water, lies cue cable from
the south shore of Elizabeth island, at one mile within the west^orn entrance
of Chismore passage.

Anchorage mny ho obUiincd, in mid-channel, in 7 to 10 fathoms,
2 cables distant from the south shore of Elliott island ; with Genu islands
soon midway between Elliott and Elizab&Lh islimds, be4iring N.N.W. J W.
Good holding ground and excellent shelter.

CHALMERS ANCHORAGE on the north-west side of Elliott
island is formed at the junction of that island with Elizal)eth ipland.

Anchorage m^y bo found in 13 to 14 fathoms, at 2 cables from the
north-west extreme of Elliott island ; with that extreme seen iu line with
south extreme of White Cliff island, bearing N.N.E. ^ E.

CHAP.x.] CHISMORE PASSAGE. — MALACCA PASSAGE.

403

White Clijff island, 260 feet Iilgh, situated nearly ra'uhvtiy
between Kennedy and Elliott islands, at G cables northward of the latter,
18 about half a mile long in a north and south direction ; its south extreme
terminating in high, bold, white cliffs. A ledge extends 2 cables southward
from White Cliff island. There is a depth of 30 fathoms, mud and shell,
at one cjible southward of this ledge. Marble has been quarried at White
Cliff island.

Cecil patch, seldom marked by kelp, has 4 fathoms upon it, and lies
one mile West from the south extreme of White Cliff island. There are
depths of 7 and 18 fathoms at 100 yards from the patch.

The summit of Kennedy island (Elizabeth peak), seen in line with the
south extreme of White Cliff island, bearing E. by S., will lead northward
of Cecil patch.

Genn islands consist oi' two small wooded islands, about 120 feet
high, lying close together in an cast and west direction. The eastern and
small-r ishmd lies 2;^ miles N.W. ^ W. from the south extreme of White
Cliff island.

Bribery island, small and wooded, lies 8 cables W. by S. from the
western Genn island.*

Lawyer group consist of two principal islands, and several smaller
ones, about one mile in extent, in a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. direction.
The eastern and smallest island of the group lies 5 cables W. by S. from
Bribery island.

Cruice rook, of small extent, covers at three-quarters flood, and lies
2^ cables W. ^ N. from the western Lawyer island.

Hunt point («f Vancouver) the north extreme of Porcher island is
about 3 miles westward of Chismore passage. Tentporary anchorage in off
shore winds may be had under the point in about 10 fathoms.

MALACCA PASSAGE, situated between Porcher island and
the Genn and Lawyer group.'^, is about 6 miles long, in a W. by N. and
E. by S. direction, and about Ij miles wide, with depths of 21 to 81
fathoms, mud, the latter depth being found in the western portion of the
channel.

Directions. — The summit of Kennedy island, Elizabeth peak (bare
patches on north-west side), seen in lino with the south extreme of
White Cliff island, bearing E. by S., will load through Malacca passage.

• Cousistfl of " low rocks very Utile abovu high water." — Lioutenuat E. L. Lung, K.N.,
H.M.S. Mutine, 1883.

oc2

404

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[cHAr. X.

SKEENA RIVER, the largest river on the coast of British
Columbia, nortlnvard of Frriser river, takes its rise in lake Babine, near
the village of Naas glee, about 200 miles beyond port Essington. At
120 miles from port Essington the river divides into tlu'oe branches, known
as the Forks of the Sk(:en&, the principal branch taking a northerly
direction, the others a north-west and south-east direction respectively.
For about 20 miles abo> e port Essington the Skeena river is available
for vessels drawing 4 feet water ; beyond that distance it is only navigable
for canoes. The head of navigation, for vessels drawing over 6 feet, may
be said to terminate miles beyond port Essington, and 21 miles from the
mouth of Skeena river.

The river is navigable for light-draught steamers as far as Mumfoi'd
landing, GO miles inland, and 200 miles further for canoes. There are
two missionary stations on the river, and along its course are many spots
favourable for settlements.*

At 6 miles below port Essington, the river divides Into three channels
called North, Middle and Telegraph passages.

Thes3 passages have not been examined in detail, and phould be entered
only under the guidance of a pilot.

The water, as far as port Esshigton, is stated to be of a light-blue
colour, similar to that of Frasev i ivjr. The shores of tViC Skeena are snid
to be loAv, and covered with small hard wood and cotton trees ; also good
sized wliite oaks, similar to those found on the banks of the Eraser river.
The shores at the entrance a.e densely wooded, chiefly cedar and hemlock,
and bear evidence of a remarkably wet climate. The Skeena is s'jited to
freeze over during the winter months at 6 miles below port Essingcon.

The entrance to the Skeena river is divideil into 3 channels by Smith
and Kennedy islands. They are designated North, Middle, and Telegraph
channels or passages. North channel is suitable only for small craft. It
is about 3 cables wide, with several sunken rocks, and only 2^ fathoms of
water, and the current is very swift. Middle channel is obstructe*! by shift-
ing snnd banks, has irregular soundings in from 3 to 8 fathoms, and is
in some places very narrow. Steamers coming from the north often take
this channel in order to touch at port Essington. It is dangerous for
sailing vessels, or without a pilot. Telegraph channel is the main passage
with not less than fathoms, water (in the channel) with a 2 or 3 knot
current. The north channel of the Skeena river is blockf^l full of ice
nearly all the winter but it seldom reaches down asfar as Kounody island.
Port Fleming is free from ice.

The head of tide water in Skeena inlet and whore the river proper
appears to commence is about 18 miles above port Essington. The

» The We»t thore, September, 1884.

'^\>.

tUf

fi,iiwi.iJ>i|P yi.ii^f'

OHAP. X.]

SKEENA RIVER.

405

river is navigable with difficulty for small stern-wheelers about 38 miles
above tide water to Kitsumgallum, where there is a trail up the valley
of the Kitsumjrallum river, to the head waters of Nass river.

It is about U)0 ir.ilus uorr. ti'lo vrater, with a rise of 725 feet to Skeena
forks or Hazleton, a settlement not far from the abandoned fort Stager,
erected in 1866 by the Western Union Telegraph Company Expedition
near Kispaioks vi'lage.* v ■

Minerals. — ICilsagatla, on the Skeena river, is reported to be an
extensivf) coal country, the seams being cut through by the river, and from
3 to 36 feet thick. Gold is found in small quantities ; plumbago is also
found.

SupplieS.-^Potatoes of large size and good quality are plentiful ; al. o
berries, which are dried by the Indians for their winter food. The Skeena
is a prolific salmon stream, and fish of the finest quality are procured here.
Good timber is plentiful and of large size, especially spruce and yellow
Alaska cedar. • . i

Telegraph passage, the southern and principal channel of tho
Skeena river, is about 8 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., with an
average width of 1 ^ miles.

The western side of the channel is 'rendered dangerous by sand flats,
some of which dry, extending from the eastern side of Kennedy island, but
the eastern side has depths of 4^ to 17 fathoms.

Caution. — Unless under the guidance of a pilot, as the channels of
the Skeena are subject to periodical changes, it is rccommendsd, Ijeforo
atteiiipting them, to buoy tho channel by boats or olher means.

DirectionS.t — The following general directions might assibt to
trace tho Channel : — Keep midway between Kennedy and Man-ack
islands until tho south extreme of Kennedy island (Seabreeze point) is
seen just open of tho south-east extreme of that island (Daring point)
bearing 8.W. | VV., and when distant IJ miles from the latter point, steer
N.N.W. \ W. 5^ miles, keeping on the eastern side of the channel, thence
W. by N. for De Horsey island, when the eastern shore of that island
should be kept on board for about 2^ miles. Thence steet- >t t^_ ^ j,^^ ^^^^.
5 miles, with the north extreme of De Hors"*;/ island astei'n, bearing
S.W. \ W., which should bring a vessel to the anchorage off port Essingtou.

PORT ESSINGTON (Spuk sut; lies on the south shore of the
Skeena river, about II miles from its mouth and (J miles from De Horsey
island, and affords extensive anchorage for vessels of any jiizo. The

♦ Captain J. C. Brundigo.

t From n niDning sun-oy made in H.M.S. Daring, iu 1878.

406

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. X.

villan^e is situated on the west side of a point forming the angle between
the Skeena and Ecstall inlet. The latter is a long channel extending in a
south-easterly direction from its junction with the Skeena. From thia
channel come the greater part of the ice-floes which encumber the Skeena "
in the cold s(;ason. Behind the flat on which the village stands is a ridge
which rises in one place to a rather remarkable conical mountain. Strong
N.E. gales in winter interrupt communication with the shore, and though
not frozen over there is much loose ice, as also quantities of heavy drift-
wood. Ships could not remain at port Essington during the months of
December, January, February and March, and well iuto April. Tho
snowfall has been about 6 feet on the level.

Three cannaries have been established in the vicinity of port Essington
and a temporary church has been erected.

Anchorage with good holding ground will be found in mid-channel
abreast port Essington, in 4 to 7 fathoms, mud.

A heavy cross-sea is caused by strong winds from N W. to S.E., and
vessels riding at anchor in the current during a gale vi wind would be
very liable to foul and trip their anchors.

Raspberry islands, situate<i* eastward of port Esbxngton, consist
of three wooded islets, lying close to the eastern shore.

De Horsey island lies about one mile northward of Kennedy
island, leaving a passage between choked with sandbanks, and only available
fur boats.

Middle passage, situated between Kennedy and De Horsey islands,
is obstructed at its western entrance by sand-flats, some of which uncover.
It should not be attempted by a stranger.

North, passage, between Tsimpsean peninsula and Smith and De
Horsey islands, has a depth of about 3 fathoms in some parts, and is not
recommended. Mount McGrath on Smith island is conspicuous, 2,200 feet
high. At the entrance to this passage several dangers lie nearly in mid-
channel ; the navigable channel lies on the south shore, p.nd is barely one
cable wide in some parts.

Near the entrance of North Skeena passage thrre is a considerable
mining camp called Willaclagh.

From Woodcock landing, ou the north shorj of North Skeena passage, a
narrow inlet extends to the westward of no' ch, cutting off Tree point from
the mainland, sending a brunch to join the scji, near Coast islet, the inlet

* So Damed by Vancouver, on account of the quantity of fine raspberriea gathered
there.

! l'

CHAP. X.]

SKEBNA RIVER.

407

■i<

itself coutinuing north-westerly joins the large basin in which Olclfield it:'ftnd
(containing mount Oldfield 2,300 feet high) is situated. This baisin entei-s
Malacca passage between Lima point and Coast islet, and connects witl.
Metlah catlah bay through Venn creek at its north-west angle. The large
mass of land west of Oldfield basin, E.S.E. from Metlah catlah, and of which
Lima point appears to be the south-east entrance, has been named Digby
island.*

AuchoragO will be found at one mile within the passage, off Wood-
cock landing on the north shore, nearly in mid-channel, in 8 to 10 fathoms,
but the anchorage is limited though it is more sheltered than port Essington.
Vessels should moor.

Soundings. — The depths in the navigable channels of the Skeena,
from the entrances to abreast port Essington, are from 4 to 20 fathoms.

Tides. — The night tides rise higher than those of the day. It is high
water at full and change in port Essington at Ih. Om. ; springs rise
24 feet, neaps 16 feet. The flood stream at the entrance attains the
velocity of 4, and tlie ebb 5 knots an hour at springs.

Winds. — During September easterly and S.E. winds, accompanied by
almost continuous rain, with frequent squalls, have been experienced. f

* Dominion Geological Survey, 1881,

f Commander Hanmer, R.N., H.M.S. Daring, 1877.

tllfatlBrt?^'^'^"*-'-^^ &MfauA^

408

CHAPTER XI.

J-x:

,l„

CHATHAM SOUND, EDTE AND BROWN PASSAGES, AND DIXON

ENTRANCE.

Varution, 27° 10" East in 1888.

CHATHAM SOUND,* is an extensive sheet of water about 38 miles
long in a general N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and from 7 to 14
miles wide, lying between the Tsimpsean peninsula and Stephens and
Dundas islands, the north-western portion of the sound washing the
southern shores of Alaska.

In the middle of the southern portion are two groups of islands (Rachel
and Lucy islands), together with other detached islets and rocks, especially
on the north shore.

At the northern end of Chatham sound, nearly abreast port Simpson,
there are some clusters of low rocky islets (Connis and Pointers rocks),
which render that portion of the sound dangerou" to navigation under
certain conditions, and divide the sound into two navigable cliauucls
(Main and Oriflamme passages).

Chatham sound communicates with Hecato strait by three channels,
Edye passage, in the south-west corner of the sound, being the channel
usually taken {see page 429). Brown passage, south of Dundas islands,
though comparatively wide, has strong and irregular tides near its western
end ; and a patch of rocks awash at high water lies nearly in mtd-chanhel.

Dixon entratice, the principal channel north of Dundas islands, is about
5 miles wide, and is the channel usually taken by vessels proceeding
northward along the coast of Alaska.

L&ndniarks. — On the north shore, in the south-eastern portion of
Chatham sound, mount Oldtield and mount McGrath, 2,300 and 2,220 feet
high respectively, are conspicuous.

With the exception of a cluster of bare rocks (Gull rocks) oflf the mouth
of Edye passage, the islets in that portion of the sound are wooded, and of
a conspicuous dark colour.

• See Admiralty plan : — Brown and Edye passages, No. 2,453 ; scale, m — 1 inch ;
also Admiralty chart : — Capu Caution to port Simpson, northern portion, No. 1,923a;
scale, m = 0*25 of an inch.

CHAP. XI.] CHATHAM SOUND ; LANDMARKS ; DANGERS. 409

On the South Dnndas island, there ai3 four conspicuous peaks, the
eastern and highest of which is 1,400 feet high. Northward of Metlah
catlah, Mission mountain, and Deer mound, of rounded form, will be seen
rising from comparatively low land to the height of 1,310 and 2,230 feet
respectively.

At 2 miles southward of port Simpson, mount Griffin (Waverly peak),
a mountain of triangular shape with a sharp summit, rises to 1,410 feet.
South-east of mount Griffin, the ridge has several conspicuous peaks rising
to nearly 3,000 feet, amongst which are Leading peak and Basil Lump
2,200 and 2,960 feet high respectively.

Mount McNeil, on the north side of Work channeli has a snow-clad
summit, of conical shape, 4,300 feet high.

On the south shore of the sound (Coast mound) a conspicuous hill of oval
shape, 760 feet high, will be seen on Middle Dundas island, with a chain of
wooded islets, of a peculiarly dark colour, fringing the shore.

Near the north-east extreme of North Dundas island, Table hill with
a flat summit rises to the height of 700 feet, and is conspicuous.
Southward of Table hill, Thumb peak rises to the height of 2,500 feet.
With the exception of one small islet (Grassy islet), the islets and rocks iu
the northern portion of Chatham sound are bare and conspicuous.

Dangers. — The southern portion of Chatham sound is comparatively
free from danger, the rocky clusters being of considerable elevation above
high water and moderately steep-to. Northward of Metlah catlah bay,
however, ledges which uncover at low water extend in many places to the
distance of 2 miles from the eastern shore. On the western side of the
sound also, there are several off-lying detached sunken rocks, with deep
water close to them. Abreast port Simpson, two clusters of rocks lie in
the fairway of the sound ; and being but little elevated above high water,
render that portion of the sound dangerous by night or in thick weather.

CEUtion. — Northward of Metlah catlah bay, during a fog, or if
uncertain of the position, the eastern shores of Chatham sound should not
be approached under 70 fathoms; nor the western shores under 40
fathoms. *

SoundillgS. — The general depths in the southern portion of Chatham
sound are from 10 to 66 fathoms, the former depth being obtained upon
Alexandra bank nearly in the middle of the sound, northward of Rachel
islands. Northward of Metlah catlah bay the water deepens. The deep
water commences near the south extreme of South Dundas island, and
extends towards the mouth of Big bay, skirting the dangerous lodges which
front the eastern shores of the sound. The depths in this portion of the

CHATnAM SOUND, &C.

[OBAP. XI.

sound ni-e from 54 to 105 fnthoras, mud at the latter, and rocky bottom
at the former depth. From abreast of Bif:; bay, the deep water extends
towards the north extreme of North Dundas island, and widens in extent,
occupying nearly the whole of the northern portion of the sound, with
depths from 58 to 214 fathouiH, mud bottom, with occasional patches of
rock.

Anchorages.— Anchorage will be found off the north entrance of
Skcena river (p. 401), in Metlah catlah bay (p. 415), Dun«an bay (p. 416),
Big bay (p. 418), Pearl harbour (p. 419), and port Simpson (p. 423), on
the eastern side of Chatham sound. Also in Refuge bay at mouth of Edye
passage (p. 431), and in Qlawdzeet, north end of Stephen island (p. 433),
on the western side of the sound.

Gull rocks consist of three principal bare rocks, about half a mi'e in
extent, the highest rock being about 30 feet above high water, lying off ihe
north entrance of Edye passage, 3 miles W. by N., from the north-west
extreme of Porcher island (Hunt point), and 3^ miles from the nearest
portion of Prescott island.

Ettrick rock, a dangerous patch of small extent, which uncovers
3 feet at low water, lies 1^ miles S.E. by E. from the centre of the Gull
rocks.

HavelOCk rock, of small extent and uncovering 6 feet at low water,
lies 2J miles S.E. by E. from the centre of Gull rocks, and one mile
S.W. i W. from Hunt point. Both Ettrick and Havclock rocks liave deep
water close to.

Holland island, small, wood<!d, and 10 feet high, lies If miles
E. by N. I N. from Green Top islet.

Kitson island, situated off the mouth of North Skeena passage,
is about 2 cables in extent, and lies 1^ miles N.E. ^ E. from Holland
island.

Green Top island, is feet high, is small, with a patch of shrub on
its summit, and lies 4| miles N.W. by W. \ W. from the western island
of the Lawyer group.

Kinnahan islands, two in number, and about half a mile long, lie
close together in a N.W. and S.E. direction, about one mile from the shore
of Tsimpsean peninsula; they are wooded, about 200 feet high. The
south extreme of South Kinrjahan islands lies 1\ miles N.N.W. from Green
Top island.

CHAP. XI.] DANGERS. — METLAH CATLAH BAY. 411

Rachel islands (Lnk oh witz), two in number, about one mile in
extent, in a N.W. and S.E. din-c-tion, wooded and about 200 feet hij;b, lie
nearly midway between THimi>«can peninsula and Stephen island. The
south-eastorn extreme of the south-east Raehel island lies 3^ miles N.W.
from the northernmost Gull rock ; and 5]^ miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from the
south extreme of South Kinnahan island.

Alexandra patch is nearly circular, one mile in diameter, within
the depth of 20 fathoms. This bank has depths of 10 to 17 fathoms, over
a bottom of mud and sand.

The eastern edge of Alexandra patch lies one mile North of the north
Rachel island. There arc ilepths of 46 and 50 fathoms, mud, at 6 cables
eastward and northward of Alexandra patch.

Lucy islands, » group of islands and high-water rocks, the large
islands being wooded and the small bare, lie nearly in the middle of the
sound abreast Metlah catlah bay, and are about one mile in extent in an
east and west dir.jtion. The summit of the eastern and largest island is
200 feet high, and lies 5^ miles N.W. from the north extreme of the north
Rachel island, and .3J miles S.W. ^ S. from the south extreme of Tug-
well island. This group is of great use when making Metlah catlah
during thick weather, as being . omparatively free from danger it may be
approached (except on the south side), and, whei^ made, the easternmost
island of the group kept astern bearing S.W. ^ W. will lead to the
entrance of Metlah catlah bay.

A ledge of rocks, H miles in length in a north-west and south-
east direction, which partially uncover, extends from 4 to 9 cables to Ihe
southward and to the south-westward of the Lucy group ; the outer rock
lying 9 cables South from the summit of the eastern island of the group.
The north-western rock dries 3 feet and lies 2^ cables S.W. ^ W.,from the
nearest island of the group, and is marked by kelp.

TSIMPSEAN PENINSULA separates Skeena river from
Work channel, being barely half a mile wide abreast the mouth of Skip
river. This peninsula (which takes its name from a tribe of Indians
residing upon it) is nearly 32 miles long, in a general north-west and
south-east direction, with a greatest breadth of 9 miles.

The head-quarters of the tribe of Indians inhabiting this peninsula are
at Metlnh catlah and port Simpson.

METLAH CATLAH BAY* is formed between the shore of
the Tsimpsean peninsula and the north- <vest coast of Digby island, and

• See Admiralty plan ;— Metlah catlah bay, No. 364 ; scale, m <= 3 iuches.

412

CnATnAM SOUND, &c.

[OHAP. zi.

is protected from the westward by Tiigwell island and tho roofs which
join tiiat island to tho shore of tlio pcninsuhi. Tho bay from its entrance
takes u general northerly direction for one mile, gradually narrowing as
the settlement is approached ; it then turns sharply to the east and south-
east, tho latter part being known as Venn creek.

Metlah Oatlah village, ft» Indian settlement, founded as a
missionary station, is situated upon Mission point. Tho houses forming the
mission are built upon an elevated bank, about 100 feet above high-water
mark, and are mostly whitewashed ; tho whole settlement from the ofling
presenting tho appearance of u i)icturesquo English village. Tho most
conspicuous buildings being tho church, school-house, and mission house.

The young natives, most of whom spoke English, wore taught tnules, and
for this purpose there wore carpenter's and blacksmith's shops, saw mills,
and a soap factory. The women were taught sowing and other useful
employment. Patches of ground aro cultivated, and potatoes of large size
and good quality grown.

Population. — Tt isdiflicult to ascertain corractly the population of any
Indian settlement; detached parties aro so often away hunting and fishing.

Tugwell island li^s alwut 2 miles south-westward of Metlah catlah
village, and vessels desirous of communicating with that place usually
anchor off the eastern side of the island, or oft" its northern side in Duncan
bay, according to circumstances. Tugwell island is about 1^ miles long,
in a north and south direction, with an average breadth of half a mile, and
is fringed by dangerous rocky ground, marked by kelp, especially on its
south-eastern side. It is wooded (the tops of the trees being about 200 feet
high), and is connected at low water with Mission point upon which
Metlah catlah village stands. , .• , . * ?

Dawes rock, awash at low water, lies 4 cables S.S.W. ^ W. from the
south extreme of Tugwell island (Dawes point). Between Dawes rock
and Dawes point, large boulder rocks uncover at low water, and extend
along the western side ^Tugwell island, generally marked by kelp.

Snfield rock bas 5 fathoms water upon it, and lies one mile
S.S.W. i W. from the south extreme of Tugwell island, with foul ground
between.

Caution. — Vessels should pass westwai'd of Enfield rock, in not less
than 10 fathoms, at low water. ' < ■ ' '^ •:'.«<

Leading marks.— To enter, Knight island kept midway between
Shrub and Pike islands bearing N.N.E. ^ E., leads safely in to the bay,

OIUP. ZI.]

METLAH CATLAU BAY.

418

betwcoii Tugwell island and Alford reefs, in 25 fatlioms. See View on
plan No. 364.

Chit islet, just shut in with tho western extreme of Devnstntion island
beariiiff N. by K. northerly, will lead eastward of th(! foul ground off the
Houth-eustom part of Tugwell island. The south extreme of the large
Cridgo island seen in lino with QuartunnaBtcr rock, and touching the north
extreme of tho Hinall Cridgo island bearing E. by N., will lead southward
of tho dangers off Tugwell island. See Directions, page -llG.

Alford roofs are a dangerous cluster of rocks, about .S cables in
extent north and souUi, lying at the entrance of Motlah catlah bay. The
northern rock, which uncovers 2 foot at low water, lies cables N.VV. by W.
from Quartermaster rock.

Tho south extreme of the large Cridgc island, in line with Quartermaster
rock, bearing E. by N., will lead southward of the Alford reefs ; Carr islet
jusl shut in with weaturu side of Devastation island bearing N. by £.
northerly, will lead westward ; tho summit of Knight island kept midway
between Pike and Shrub islands, bearing N.N.E. ^ E., will also lead west-
ward ; and the flagstaff on Mission point (Metlah catlah village) in lino
with the western extreme of Pike island bearing N. by E., will lead east-
ward of Alford reefs.

Quartermastor rock, a small !)lack rock, 2 feet above high water,
lies 4 cables W. by S. from tho south extreme of the largo Cridge island,
and i^ cables from the small Cridgo island, on the same bearing.

A rock, which uncovers one foot at low water, lies 1^ cables South
from Quartermaster rock.

Cridgo islands, l-wo in number, lie at the south-east entrance of
Metlah catlah bay : the eastern and larger island is 150 feet high, and lies
2 cables from the eastern shore of the bay (Digby islands). The western
island is small, 100 feet high, and lies 2 cables W. by S. from the south
extreme of tho larger Cridge island. Both islands are wooded.

MidgO rock, « patch of small extent, which uncovers at low water,
lies half a mile North from Quartermaster rock ; and about 4^ cables
north-eastward from nearest part of Alford reefs.

Devastation island lies almost in the centre of the bay half a mile
eastward of Tugwell island, and is nearly one-third of a mile long, north
and south, and 200 yards broad. The island is wooded, 150 feet high, and
two rocky islets lie close to its south extreme.

The western shore of Devastatiou island has no danger off it beyond the
distance of half a cable ; but from the northern extreme uf this island,
a shoal, portions of which uncover at low water, extends half a mile in a
north-easterly direction towards Pike island.

•^mm

414

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

(chap. XI.

Kright islaiUCk,^ burely 10 feet high, umall, witii stunted scrub upon
it, lies 4 cables E. | S. from the north extreme of Devastation island.

Armour rock, with 9 feet water over it, lies S.E. by S., distiiut one
c.-ible h'om Knight island.

Pike island, l^O foet high and wooded, is about one-third of a mile
long in a north and .south direction, and its south extreme lies 7 cables
P'.N.E. from north end of Deva.station island.

Carr islet, small, about (jO feet high, lies half a mile N. by E. from
the uortii extreme of Devastation island. A small islet liess 2 cables
N.W. from Carr islet. Carr islet is connected at low water with the spit
wliicli joins Tngwell island and Observation point.

Shrub islet lies l^ cables W.N.W. from the north aide of Pike island,
and is of small extent, low, and easily recognizable from il» having three
peculiar trees on it, the only ones on the island.*

Pike, Carr, and Shrub islands are not easily distinguished by a stranger
milking for Metlah catlah ; and Carr islet appears as part of Devastation
island.

A shoal, the outer portion of which uncovers at low water, extends
nearly 2 cables from the nortli side of Shrub islet, and \a the outer portion
of a bunk of sand with patches of rock upon it, which connects Piko island
Shrub islet, Gribbell and Isabel islands at low water.

A ledge of rocks, which uncovers at low water, extends 1^ imbles
south-east from Observation point.

Kelp rock, ••■ dangerous sunken rock, lies nearly midway between
Shrub islet and Observation pomt, 2 cables from either. The navigable
channel between Shrub islet und OI>.si)rvation [)oint, is contractu*! I)y Kelp
rock to barely half a cable in width at low water.

A small iron buoy is moored on Kelp rock ; but this buoy is often washed
away, and therefore its being in position cannot be depende«l ou.

Mission point hos tlirec-quartcrs of a mile N.E. by E. ^ E. from
Obwrvation point.

Gribbell island, sitnatod on the south side of the channel leading
into Venn creek, is about the same size as Shrub islet, from which it is
distant .> cables in a north-easterly direction. A small rocky islet lies
about half a cable off the north side of Gribbell island.

* The!>« have lieoQ trimmed nii<l iippcnr as a pyramid suppotted l>y n. coluaiu.—
n. G. Hutch, NavtfrnfiiiK LieDt»mnut, U M.S. f/rmiuv, )«8;j.

A caKk pnintod black i8 iniKired otT tilt! nortli-\vt!8t. point of Shrub islet, —Navigatiug
Lieutenant F. Uoborln, H.M.S. SateUite, 1884.

CHAP. XI.]

METLAH CATLAH BaY.

415

Isabel isla/Ud lies l^ cables N.N.E. from tne summit of Griblnll
island, nnd ]| cables South from Mission poii.t.

A daC|l)erOUS sunken rock lies half a cable westward of Isabel
island, and roducec the navigable channel at low water to barely GO yarils
in width.

Venn, croek takes an E. by S. direction from Mission point, but
is only suitable for small vessels. There are several fishing stations upon
the shoren of 'his creek, in which the Indians obtain salmon. Venn creek
at itfi head ..< anects witii the unexplorinl Oldfield basin, cast of Diffby
island, which extends southwards and eastwaid, connecting with Malacca
and Nt)rth Skeena passages.

Anchorage will be found in ll to 32 fathoms, mud bottom, 3 cables
off tlie westi-rn hide of Devastation island, with the south extreme of Devas-
tation island seen in line with the smaller Cridgo ishuxl, bearing S. E. by 8.
and the south extreme of Carr islet seen in lino with the flagstaff on Mi.ssiou
point, tearing N.E. | N. Small vessels occasionally proceed into Venn
creek and anchor off Metlah oitlah village, in 10 to 12 fathoms, with the
flagstaff on Mission point bearing W. by S. distant 'A to 4 cables.

The channel into this anchorage is barely 60 yards wide at low water, when
the dangers on either side indictUe themselves, but the passage should only
bo attempted by short vessels, of light draught; and at all times it
would Ije well to place boats upon the outer edge of the shoal off .Slirub
islet, and also upon the rock which lies westward of I.sabel island, and
likewise on Kelp rock, should tho buoy marking that danger be not iu
position.

Auriol point, just open north of Shrub islet bearing N.E. ^ E., leads
between the fotd gi'ound southward of Carr island and the ledge extending
from the north extreme of Devastation island, and when Ryan point comes
op<^n east of Carr island bearing N.W. ^ N. a course may be steered to
round tho boat moored upon the outer edge of thobhoal off Shrub islet.*

♦ The bt'Ht tinio for entering Venn crock lor a ship of inodcmte drauj^ht is ut hulf
tide, or between that and low vruter. Urin^^ tin: iiortli point of i'iki' inland in lino with
tho north extreme of ja-ak of tuountain on I) dby ishuid, tiearing K.N.E. ; ki'e;i this
mark on until the prison (n »quare bnilt tower with u fla^'stuff on it) bears N.N.E. I E.,
when it will be seen between two hounes ; Hteer lor it on this beurinn until nearly up to
Bhrub iitlet, when skirt closely round the rocks of that island, there lieing 4 to 3 fathoms
•'lose to them, then u mid-channel course. Uhen nearin^ I«ubel islaiul keep the kelp,
which will point out the position of the rooks, on both bows, and ki'ep in the coutrc.
When paRf Isabel idlund anchor or moor accordi ig to the vesselV drought, but the
latter in preferiible. When the Cormorant went in the roek inshore off Shrub rock;*, and
the inshore one off IsatK'l iMand wero baoye<i. — Navigatiug Lieut. Oeo. A. Courteuay
Webb, R.N., H.M.S. Cormorant, November 1888.

immniwmammmmmmmm

416

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[<jnji. Tr-

For all ordinary piiri>o8cs, liowt-vtr, the Hucbomgc oft' Devastat'On
island is witliin easy distance for coraiiiunicaling by boat with Miitl^h
catlah mission.

DUNCAN BAY, on the north-side of Tugwell islaad, Kffords
rtucboragt* when desirous of conimimicating with Metlnh cntlab during
the prevalence of HOiith-ensterly winds.

The entrance to this bay between the north extreme of Tugwell island
and llyuii point is about 1^ mile.s wide, and takes an easterly direction for
about 1^ miles, terminating in the sandspit which connects Tugwell island
and Tsimpsean peniuiinia (Observation point) at low water.

Dangers. — A shoal with 3 fathoms (and probably less) water upon it,
r?xt<Mids half a mile northward of Tugwell island. lA'dges^ which usicover,
and sunken rocks, extend nearly 7 cables from the north shore of Duncan
bay.

Hecate rock, ^^ith only lO feet water on it, lies near the head of
Duncan bay, 3 cMibles from the north shore and half a mile W, by N. f • ■;»
Observation point.

Directions. — If desirous of anchoring in Duncan bay, pass one mile
north-westward of Tugwell island, and when the south extreme of Gribbell
island is seen just open of Observation point, bearing E. \ S., that mark
shoidd be steered for ; a berth shoulil bo taken up en that bearing, in H to
10 fathoms, mud, witii Chapman point, the north-west extreme of Tugwell
island, Iteanng S.W. by W.

Approaching Metlali catlah from the soufh-eastward, if the Lawyer
group of islands be kept in line with Green Top island bearing S.E. by
E. ^ E., that mark H«tern will lea*! directly lo the entranc*' of Metlah
catlah bay ; and having brought Garr islet in line with, the weslern side
of Devastation island bearing N. by S. northerly, a vessel may steer in
on that mark, and proceed as i)<'for« directed to tie anchorage off the
north-west sitle of J>eva»t4ition island. Or if bound in'o Duncan Imy, pass
one mile westward of Tugwell island, aud proceed lui Iwforc directed.
During a fog <«r in thick weather, when approaching Metlah catlah from
the south-eastward, du not shoal lo less than 40 iathoms, and uu such
occasiuns the Lucy islands should be cautiously steered for and sighted,
taking care to avoid the reefs which extend from the south and south-
west Hide of the group. The largo or eastern Lucy island should be brought
to bear S.W. J W. astern, and a N.E. | E. course should take a vessel
to the entrance of Metlah catlah bay. The bank of 10 fathoms (and less
water) extends nearly one mile to the southward of Tut, veil island, aud
the hand lead, if proceeding slowly, should indiciito the position During
Bunimer and autumn large iiuautities vf kelp mark this bank.

CIUP. XI.]

DUNCAN BAY. — BIG BAY.

4,17

TidOS. — It is li'gh wator, full ami change, at Motlah catlah at noon ;
springs rise 21 feet, neaps 17 feet.

TREE BLUPP, the south entrance point of Big bay, lies 5 miles
N N.VV. i W, from Ryan point, the north entrance point of Duncan bay.
The sliore northward of Ryan point is low and wooded to the distnncie of
.'} milos Imck from the coast, where it rises into high land ; the two most
conapicuous mountjiins being Mission mountain and Deer mound. Two
streams enter the sound on this part of the coast, and there are two islets
lying close to the shore, respectively one and 2 miles northward of Ryan
point. The former (Swamp islet) is covered with low grass, and lies
al)out 5 cJtbles distant from the shore. The latter islet is bare (Slippery
rock), about 4 cables from the shore.

Immediately southward of Tree bluff there is a wooded uiil, close to the
shore, 250 feet high.

Tree Rluff is situaU'd in latitude 5i° 26' 0" N., longitude 130°29'0" W.

DsUgerS. — Uetween Metlah catlah and Big bays, dangerous ledges
extend off saoro in many places to the distance of 2 mdes. Those ledges
uncover at low water, and are steep-to.

Hodgson reefs, n dangerous cluster, lie northward of Duncan bay ;
tlufir south part covers at half flood, and lies 2 miles N.W. from the
north-west oxiremo of Tugwell island, and IJ miles W. -J S. from Ryan
point. From that position, dangerous sunken rocks extend in a N.N.W,
direction for 2 miles.

Abreatt Tree bluff* the edge of the bank, which dries at low water,
lies l\ n:ile8 from the shore.

Leading marks. — The south side of Kinnahan Islands, just showing
dear of the south end of Tugwell island bearing S.E. | E., lends westwuid
of Hodgson reefs; nnd the eastern island of the Lucy group should not
be brought to bear south of S. by E. (astern) until mount Grilfin (over
port Sinipaon) is soon in line willi the north end of Burntclift' ishind
N. by E. ^ ¥: i this mark leads westward of all dangers off the entrance to
Big bay.

BIG BAY* (Lak hOU), the entrance to which between Tree bluff
and Soiith island is 2^ miliw wide, takes an easterly direction for li^ miles.
Al Its head, which is skirted by a band Hat, ■which dries one mile from the
shore at low water, several streams flow into the bay ; this jmrt being
known as Salmon river bight.

* See plan: — Uig bay, ou Admiralty chart No. 3,496 ; scale, m •> 3 iuvhvi.
A 17498. O o

418

CHATHAM SOUND, &0.

[cti/a*. xr.

South island, situated at the north-west ontranco of Big bay, is
siunll aiitl wooded, with u sharp summit, 150 feet hif;h, and connected with
the nmiiiland by a space of foul ground, dry at low water, and one mile in
width.

A ledge of sunken rocks, with depths of a and 12 feet, extends
5 cables S, ^ W. from the sontli side of South island.

Haycock island lies 3 cables East from the summit of South
island.

White Cliflf island lies 9 cables E. ^ S. from Haycock island ; it
is small, and terminates in high, white, conspicuous cliff's.

ShattOCk point, -^ cables E.N.E. from White Cliff island, is the
north-west entrance point of Salmon river bight.

Swallow island lies one mile E. | S. from White Cliff island, and
one cable from the north shore.

Curlew rock is small, aljont 2 feet above high water, and lies
5 cables South from Swallow island.

Ripple bank at the entrance to Pig bay, is about 2 cables in extent
in an East and West direction ; the .hoalest spot near the eastern end,
having 12 feet water over it, siMuly bvittom, lies 1,\, miles S. by W. 3 W.
from the aummit of South island. This bank usually indiciilcsi itself by a
tide rip, but no kelp was growing upon it in the autumn of lSti8,.

A sandbank, about one cable in extt-nt, with 3 fathoms water, lies
S. ^ E., 'A cables from Haycock island.

Escape reefs are a dangerous cluster at the entrance to Big bay
E.S.E. of Rij)i»lo bank. The outer or western reef has 4 feet water over
it, nnd lies l^''^ miles S. | W. from the summit of South island. The
eastern reef has 5 foet water over it, and lies half a mile E.N.E. from
the western one. There are depths of 16 and 17 fathoms between these
reefs. During the season of kelp growth, (hat weed is found in great
quantities upon Esciipe reefs, and near the head of Big bay.*

Anchorage wi'l be found in Big boy, in 11 and 12 fathoms, mud,
with Ilaycocl. inland in line with the north extreme of South island l)earing
N.W. by W. J W. ; and White Cliff island iu line with mount GrifBn
bearing N. by W. \ W.

Both reefs bnvc suiali lumps dry Kt low wuter

ciur. XI.]

BIG BAY. — FINLAYSON ISLAND.

419

Directions. — Approaching Big bay from tlio southward, mount
Grifliii should be ki'pt iu line with tho north cxuemo of JJurut-olitl" i?iiaml
N. by E, I'j E. until Sliiirp jxiak on tho riilgc south-east of mount GrilHa is
in liuo with the south end of Swallow island bearing E. by N. ; the latter
mark will lead directly into Big bay ; ai.chor with Sharp peak open south
of Swallow island, in tho position and depth above given.

Burnt-cliff isl&nd, situatetl northward of South inland, is aboni
half a niilt^ long in a N.VV. i^ N. and S.E. ^ S. direction, and wooded, its
liighe:-t j);)int near its north end being 200 ft-et high. The nortli extreme
of this island terminates in high red-brown eliflH : the north-east extreme
is cultivated, and from that point a long bank of shingle, awash ut high
wat<'r, extends 3 cables in a north-easterly direction. The whole space
inshore of South and Burnt-cliff islands, uncovers at low water,

A ledge, wliieh uncovers at low water, extends .3 eables in a north-
westerly direction from tho north-west extreme of Bnrnt-cliU' i>l'iud. The
channel between Burnt-cliff anil One Tree islands i:; available only for
boats.

One Tree island, situated l cables north-west of Burnt-cliff island,
is of small extent, with a sharp wooded summit 150 feet high. A low
grassy point extends 100 yartls in a northerly direction from the north
extreme of One Tree island, at the extremity of which a high, conspicuous,
solitary tree was standing in 18C8. One Tree island forms the southern
point of entrance to Cunningham passage, and t\w western shelter of Pearl
harbour.

A ledge, whleh uncovers at low water, surrounds One Tree ishuul ;
its greate.-t <liNiJince from tho shore being 2J cables in a N.N.W. ^ W.
direction liom iho sirtirle tree.

Flat top islands, " group lying to tho northward of One Tree
island, consists »>f three woo«led isjantls, lying N.N.E. and S.S.W. of each
other. Tht- middle and longest island of the group 'i counecteil by a
narrow ;rnis»y neck with the northern island, and tlu .l.iUer ha.s a flat
summit, oov t-rcd in .Inly with long] grass ; also <i single stunted tree
{jH'owing u|)on if (1S68). The southerinnost and smallest Flat-top islam!
lies .Sj cables N. by K. from tho tree on One Tree island.

Lodgi's, which uncover at low wal^T, and foul ground, surround the ."! t-
top jtrrovip to the ilistanee of 1^ cables.

FINLAYSON ISLAND, 'h.- largest in this locality, is 2^ trilM
kwK in a N.W. ^ N. nnd S.E. \ S. direction, and one milt broad, 200 ftnt
hitfh, and wootled. The south extreme of the island terminates lu cliffs ;

D t> 2

ll'tf'K^IW ww)i»w |i^j^.H.«H i|ff,( .w"^Mpn«i;!|tiir

420

CHATHAM 80T3ND, &C.

[OIUP. XI.

but the north extreme (Gordon point) is long and comparutivcly low, with
ledges which uncover extending 2 cables to the northward ; and on the
north-west hide of the island, about half n mile from the north-west
extreme, is a large otream.

R )d Cliff point, Hituatod on the eastern side of Cunningham
pasango, half a mile N.E. from Fortune point, is rendered conspicuous by
the high red-brown cliffs over it, and the small islft close to. Immediately
south-cast of the point there is a bay, with a sandy bench, and stream at it»
head.

PEARL HARBOUR,* situated eastward of One Tree island, is
nearly circular in shape, and half a mile across, its east(>rn side being formed
by a bay, which dries nearly throughout at low water. Ou its south-east
side, th(! high bank of shingle which extends from the uorth-eabt point of
Uurnt-cliff island, efl'ectually shelters the harbt>ur from south-easterly winds.

Anchorage. — Good anchorage will be found in 9 to 10 fathoms,
mud bottom, near the mitldle of Pearl harbour, with Fortune \w'uit 8<;eu
just open northward of the southernmost island of Flat-top group, K'aring
N.W. I N,, and the tree on One Tree island, VV.S.W., distant 3 cables.

Otter anchorage, situated at the south end of Cunningham passago
near the eastern shore, nortliAvard of Flap-toj) islands, is useful if commuut-
catiug with the wood-cutting establishment abreast it.

Anchorage in 15 to 17 fathoms, sand, will be found with the centre of
the wood A utting (>stabliahment in line with Leuding peak, bearing
E. by N. \ N., and the northernmost Flat-top island (Green mound)
S. by E., (lislant 1^ cables.

Wood-cutting establishment, fiom which the principjil sup.
plies for port Simpson are obtained, is situated near the middle of a sandy Imy,
the northern point of the bay terminating in cliffs. The bay dries nearly
throughout at low water.

From Otter anchorage there is a passage eastward of Flat-top islands
into I'earl harbour, but this is not rceomniended to a stranger.

SparrOWhawk rock, n dangerous, sunken, pinnacle rock, on which
is only .*) feet water, lies nearly half a mile N.W. ^ N. from the tree on
One Tree island, and nearly in mid-channel, between One Tree and
Finlayson islands ; it is stcop-to, there being depths of lU and 12 fathoms
!it a distiiiice of ,50 feet from it.

Lf'iiiling iK>ak, a well '''fined peak of triangular shafM) (the first to the
soiuh-east on the ridge from mount GrifTin), in lino with the north extreme

• See Adniirnlty plan: — Penrl harbour, on sheet Nn. 2,486.

ciup. XI.] SPARROWHAWK ROCK. — CUNNINGHAM PASSAGE. 421

of Green mound, tho northernmost islet of the Flat-top group, bonrini;
E. by N. )f N,, or that peak seen just oi)cn southward ot tho wood-cutting
establishment abreast Otter onchorftge, E. by N. \ N., will lend northward
of Sparrowlmwk rock.

Dodd rock i» tlio most outlying danger extending from tho south
side of Finlayson island, and lies a littlo over 2 cables South from
Fortune jwint ; ledges which dry, connect it with that point. Dodtl rock
only covers ut the iiighcst ((juinoctial tides, and is therefore a useful mark
when entering Cunningham passage, as there is deep water a short distance
southward of t!te rock.

Leading fM'ak seen just 0{>cn southwnrtl of the wood-cutting establish-
ment abreast Otter anchorage, bearing E. by N. | N., will lead southward
of the Dodd rock.

Directions. — Approaching Cunningham passage, Red Cliff point
shouhl bo steered for in line with Fortune point, bearing N.E., until
Leading peak is seen in line with the north Flat top island (ttree!» mound),
bearing K. by N. ^ N., when tlie hitter mark should be steered for. When
the southern side of Hurnt-clilF island is seen open northward of the tree
on One Tree islet, bearing S.S.E. ^ E., a vessel will Ik! eastward of
SfjarrowJiawk rock ; and if bound to [wrt Simpson, may haul to the
northward into Cunninghini passage.

If bound into Pe.ir» harbur.r, a raid-channel course from tho above-
mentioned position siiouhl be shaped between One Tree islet and the
southernmost Flat top islan<l. Bellctti and Shattock points, two con>
spicuous wooded points on tho eastern shore, should bo kept in line,
bearing S.E. by E., when entering Pearl harbour,

CUNNINGHAM PASSAGE, eastward of Finlayson island,
between it and the Tsimpscan peninsula, lies in a N. by W. ^ W., and
S, by E, J^ K. direction. The southorn portion of this channel is barely
3^ cables wide; but northward of Sarah point (tho north-east extreme of
Finlayson islaiul) tho passage widt-ns, attaining, Ijctwcen One Tree islet
and Gordon point, a widlh of 1^ niiles, The (lepths in mid-channel are
from 16 to 'J6 fathoms, with no danger iK'yond one cable from the shore,
until ncuring Village island.

Village island, situated at tho south-west entrance of jiort Simjjson,
at about one cable from the shore, with which it is connected at half tidi;,
is about a quarter of a mile long m a VV.N.W. and f].S.E. direction ; its
south side forms a bay : and following (he trend of that bay and round
the southern extreme of the isknd, the houses of one of tho Tsimi)8can

422

CHATHAM SOUND, «S:C. Vi/t7 [chap. xi.

Indian villajjos will bo seen. Villajfo island near its north-west extremo
is about 50 foct lii^h, having on it a high pole.

OnO Tree islet •« covered with stunted tvoes about 100 yards long
euot and wcHt, lying close to the north-west extreme of Villngc i<)land.
Near the western end stands a conspicuous decayed tree from which the
name uf the islet is given.

Birnie island hos at the north-west entrance of port Simpson, and
ifl three-{|unrlors of a mile long in a noilh and south direction, and a littlo
over 2 cablos broad, its greatest elevation .330 feet being near t!,(? middle
of the island. The shores of this island are comparatively bold and
unbroken. Knox point, the south extremo of Hirnie isliind, lies 1^ miles
North from Fiiilayson island, and l'^ miles N.W. | W. from One Tree
islet. Lodges which uncover at low water extend one cable from Knox
point.

PORT SIMPSON,* the most spacious harlwur on this part of
the coast, is nearly 1^ miles wide at its entrance between One Tree islet
and Birnie island ; thence it takes im easterly direction for about 3}^ miles,
contracting gradually as the head is approached, and terminating in a
narrow bight, named Stumaun bay, which dries across at low water. At
its head are several streams, whcni salmon, from which it derives its name,
are caught. The northern shore of the port is fringed with a rocky beach,
compact and backed by rapidly lising high land. The southern shore is
not so regidar, nor so steep-to, the rocks which dry at low water, near the
eastern part of the bay, extending from high-water mark in some places for
the distance of nearly a third of a mile.

Port Simpson embraces over 4 square miles of water, frou' •* to 20 fathoms
deep with mutUly bottom, good holding ground and free from roel.s and shoals.
It is easy of access from the sea, having no strong tidal currents, and well
sheltered from all winds except the west, which here seldom blows. The
prevailing winds are south-west and uorth-west, from which the harbour
is perfectly protected.

Landmarks. — ri'o villages on village island, the decayed tree on
One Tree isltt, fort Simpson, and mount Griiliu, with its tritmgular
summit, are all conspicuous objects at the south-west entrance of port
Simpson. On the north shore, George and Lizzie hills, two hills of
nearly (he same height, 870 feet, are wooded and easily recognised. The
mouth of a lagoon, on that shore, is also conspicuous. Ben hill, over

* See Admiralty plan : — I'urt SimpHon, on ithcct No. 'i,4U6 ; scale, m °> 3 inche!).

CQAF. XI.]

POET SIMPSON.

428

tho Houth cntraiico point of Stumaun 1)ay, is wooded, 130 feot high, niid
conspicuous amid the adjncent low hind.

Soundings. — The greatest dcjith in port Simpson is 29 fathoms ;
but the average depths near the auchorage ground are from 12 to 18
fathoms, mud Iwttom.

Fort Simpson* was formed by the Hudson IJay Company in 1831
as a trading post, on account of the good anehorago found in its vicinity
and tho facilities aftbrdod to sailing vessels. The trading post or fort
stiinds near the soutii-west entrance point of the bay, close to tho beuch,
and consists of a stockade of oblong shape, 250 feet long and 100 feet deep,
with higii bastions. Tho ground timbers were originally of pine, but aro
now of Cedor wood, a slcejwr of the latter timlx-r liaving been found to bo
quite sound 20 years after it was laid down, when all the pine wood
sleepers laid at tho same tinio were found to be rotten. Tho fort when seen
from seaward presents a strong and compact appearance, and upon iuspec-
tiou its paiisades will bo found to be scarred by bullet marks, beaxing
evidence of tho many sieges it has sustained from the natives. A largo
entry gate faces tho beach with a landing jetty of stonos in front of it.
Within the fort are five lai-gc l>uilding8, forming the dwellings of the Hudson
Boy Company's officers, the tra<ling stores, and a store for furs awaiting
shipment. The fort stands near the beach, and tlauking it and exti>nding
back some 300 feet, is a paled space of a))out G acres in extent. The eastern
portion of this space is a well cultivated garden, and excellent potatoes,
lettuces and ratlishcs are grown, the first of tho sof^^son of *hc latter appear*
ing in 1868, on the 20th June. Kaspberries and strawberries grow in
abundance, the former being of large size ond good flavour.

The village contains a population of about 800 Indians.

Good wood ready cut for steaming purposes may bo obtaii^cd at ^3 a
cord. .-'• ■•' ' ••<; 'C '.^ :

Tho land at tho back of the fort is about 130 feet high, and has been
cleared to the disUuice of about one mile. The surface, however, is covered
with thick moss, sjitunvtetl with moisture, which renders walking unpleasant
anil dilRcult.

The rocks are stratified, mica schists p^^sing into gneiss and granite,
containing garnets, pyret and ((uart/, veins. Gold has beca reported to exist
in tho vicinity, but this retpiires conlirmation,

The Hudson Bay Company's trading steam-vessel calls {X'riodically
at port Simpson, bringing supplies and returning with the furs. There

* For climate tee pugu 4.

424

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[CIUF. XI.

is a good pier with a depth of over 4 fathoms alongside it at low
water.

Tlie princi])al furs ob^aiuod are : — S«a otter, land otter, bear, lieaver, lynx,
silver fox, red fox, fisher, wolf, fur seal, liair Heal, wolverene, racoon, inu)*k
rat, mink, marten, and erniinc.

Temperature. — From observations taken in 1868, during the four
mouths mentioned, the maximum and minimum registrations of tempcraturo
were as follows :— June, 65", 50°; July, 71°, 48°; August, 70°, .'51° ;
September, 64°, 44°.

Anchorage. — The usual anchorage is off the fort, in about 10
fathoms, mud bottom; a good berth being with Parkin island, seen just
open northward of Biruie island, bearing N.W. (westerly), and (Gordon
point) the north-west extreme of Finlayson island, in lino with the decayed
tree on One Tree islet, W.S.W.

Hankili reefs »"' n dangerous cluster of reefs which partially tin-
cover, situated south-west of Village island (Cunningham passage). The
south-west extreme of those reefs uncovers 6 feet at low water, and lies a
little over 3 cables S.W. by S. from the north-west extreme of Village
island. There is deep water between these reefs and Village island.

Fortune point, the south-east extreme of Finlayson island, just shut in
with Sarah point, the north-east extreme of that island, bearing S. by
E. ^ E., leads westward ; and the mouth of the lagoon on the north shore
of port Simpson, seen open of One Tree islet, bearing N.E., leads north-
ward of Hankin reefs.

Harbour reefs «re an extensive plateau of rocks, awash at high
water, forming a natural breakwater at the entrance to port Simpson, pro-
tecting the anchorage from N.W. winds. This sunken plateau is nearly
8i]uare in shape, and about one mile in extent, within the depth of 5
fathoms. The south-cast portion of these reefs only covers at the liighest
tides, and lies 2^ cables W.N.VV. from One Tre<' islet.

The mouth of the lagoon on the north shore of port Simpson, seen just
open westward of One Tree islet, bearing N.E., leails south-eastward;
Lizzio hill sciii well open southward of Hirnio islaml, bearing N.E., leads
north-westward; Ben hill open north of Bath point (south-east shore of
port Simpson) bearing E. by S., leads northward ; and Parkin island seen
open of the north extreme of Birnie island, bearing N.W. (westerly) leads
north-eastward of Harbour reefs.

Dodd passage lies between One Tree islet and Harbour reefs, and
is 2 cables wide, with depths of 6 and 8 fathoms iii it. This is available
for steam vessels, but local knowledge is necessary.

f -i

OBAP. ZI.]

PORT SIMPSON.

425

AnchoragO patch, with is feet wftter, Handy bottom, licH in tlif-
wesU^rn portion of the anchorngu ground otT fort SinipHon, with tlie fort
gate bearing S.K. ^ E., and the pole on the north-weet extreme of
Village island, S.W., distant 1^ cnbloH.

Chokod passage, sitimted northwanl of Birnie inland, has several
ledgos which uncover, and sunken dangerM with deep water between them.
This passage should not be attempted except in boats, and when using it
keep Donr the north shore.

DirOCtionS. — Approaching port Simpson from the southward by
Cunningham passage, the cliffs on the north-west extreme of Burnt-clift
island kept in lino with the southernmost Fiat-top island, bearing S. by
E. \ E. (astern) will lea<l through until abreast Sarah point. Thence the
mark for leading westward of liankin reefs should be brought on astern
(sec p. 424), and when the lagoon mouth on north shore of port Simpson
opens westward of the decayed tree on One Tree islet, l)caring N.E.,
a course should be steered to pass one cable north-westward of One Tree
islet, and anchor in the position before mentioned.

A vessel not wishing to enter by Dodd passage, should when abreast
Sarali point bring that point in line with the south point of a bay on the
eastern shore of Cunningham passage, bearing S.E. \ E. (astern), which
mark will lca«l southward of the Harbour reefs, midway between that danger
and Fiulaysou island.

Inskip passagO, the northern and principal entrance into port
Simpson, is a little over 5 cables witle, and should invariably be used by a
stranger. The jlepths in this channel are from 11 to 20 fathoms.

Entering port Simpson by Inskip passage, Lizzie hill (on the north shore)
well open southward of Birnie island beariug N.E., will lead 2 cables
south-east of that island and 3 aiblea north-west of the Harbour reefs.
When Ben hill (south shore of the bay) comes open of Bath point bearing
E. by S., an E. by N. course may be steered, until Parkin island is seen
just open northward of Birnie island, bearing N.W. (westerly), that mark
kept on ast<!rn will lead up to the anchorage, in the depth and position
before mentioned.

Indian villages. — Before the Hudson bay post was built, the
villages of the Tsimpscan Indians were at Mctlah catluh, but the tribe
oeing great traders, as well as hunters, travelling long distances iidand,
they naturally migrated nearer the trading post. They have therefore
settled along the beach on either side of the fort, and upon an island
close opposite (Village island). Village island was formerly only

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WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(7 '6] 87 5-4503

426

CHATHAM SOUND, «fcC.

[chap. XI.

connected with the main at low water, but the Indians have constructed
a trestle bridge, about 600 feet long and from 15 to 20 feet high,
connecting the island and the main (Hay point). In 1868 there were 18
houses on the beach eastward of the fort, 49 houses westward, and 66
dwellings upon Village island. Most of the houses were strong and well
built, about 30 feet long, 20 to 30 feet deep, and fro-n 15 to 20 feet in
height, with a wide door facing the beach. Along the beach canoes of
large size were hauled high up, close to the dwellings. In front of the
houses high poles are erected, with grotesque carvings upon them, princi-
pally representing a human face, with the wings of a large bird attached
to it, and frequently crowned by the figure of a bird with a long bill.
The minor carvings are generally associated with the family crest, each
chief and clan having a crest, the principal ones being the whale, porpoise,
eagle, raven, wolf, and frog. Ked and green are the predominating heraldic
colours.

Population. — Itike the other coast tribes, the Tsimpseans are
decreasing in numbers annually, but in 1868 they numbered about
2,000.

Supplies. — Salmon, berries, shell fish, houlican oil, and dried seaweed
form the principal diet of these Indians. Animal food (venison) is eaten
when it can be obtained, but the winter food consists of dried salmon and
hcrlican oil. The salmon are caught in immense quantities during
the autumn and smoked over wood fires in huts. The houlican abounds in
Nass river iu the spring, the banks at low water being covered with dead
fish. From this fish, which is larger and rounder than a sprat, a
nutritious oil is extracted, and is the principal commodity of this people ;
the various tribes whose rivers the houlican do not visit, buying the oil
in exchange for furs. Seaweed is taken in great quantities on the
off'-lying rocks during the low autumnal tides ; it is dried and compressed
into cakes and used as winter food. A great luxury with them is rice and
molasses.

Wood, water, potatoes, and crabs, can be obtained in port Simpson. \

NatiVO customs. — The Tsimpseans were once a powerful and warlike
tribe, nearly always at war with either the Hydahs (Queen Chai-lotte
islands) or the Nass Indians (Portland inlet), and much dreiwled by the
Bella Bella and southern tribes. They are still an influential race, and
object to any other tribe trading directly with the lladson Bay Company at
fort Simpson. Before granting permission for such, they expect ami obtain
presents.

■'i

CHAP. XI.]

PORT SIMPSON.

427

On such occasions feasts are held. A spirit called whiskey is drunk, and
under its influence they commit many crimes. Without any apparent cause
old grievances are recalled, and as they invariably have their firearms beside
them, they shoot one another.*

Slavery is reported to be still (1868) in existence among them. In the
event of a feast terminating in murder, the aggrieved tribe sally forth in
their canoes, and meeting any of the tribe of the murderer, cany the women
away, first killing the men. The head of the Tsimpseau tribe in 1868 waa
a woman.

Sick people are kindly treated, and receive much attention from
their friends. Upon the appearance of an epidemic, however, such as
small-pox, this rule does not apply. So g'-eat is their dread of this disease,
that those suffering from it are at once taken outside the village, a fire is
lighted, some food is placed beside the sufferer, and he is then left to his
fate.

The women mourn for the dead many days ; they sit on the beach and
utter a long, low, dismal wail. The dead are usually burnt, the corpse
being conveyed away in a canoe to a distant part of the beach and there
burned to ashes. Mourners accompany it, uttering piercing cries all the
time the body is consuming ; the ashes^ are then collected and placed in a
little house appointed to receive them. A slave, after death, is at once
placed in a canoe, and thrown into the harbour, without any sorrow being
expressed.

Religion. — This branch of the Tsimpseans are not Christians like
that at Metlah catlah. Some native Christians, however, teach in a
mission house ; but the great bulk of the population adhere to their old
customs and ceremonies.

Language. — The Tsimpsean language is soft and melodious ; it is
spoken as far south as Wright sound. Eastward of that sound the Bella Bella
dialect is spoken ; the Kit i mat tribe (at the head of Douglas channel)
speaking a mixture of both dialects.

The language of trading, and for communication generally between
tribes speaking different dialects, is called Chinook. This jargon consists
of English, French, and Indian words strung together, with no grammatical
basis ; it is readily acquired, and almost universally spoken by the coast
tribes from the Columbia river to Alaska. ..,

Repairs. — The great rise and fall of tide at port Simpson permits a
vessel to be beached. A good site will be found for this purpose just

* It is advisable for white men, if strangers, not to visit the villages on those
occasions.

428

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[chap. XI.

westw^ard of the fort. The bottom consists of hard sand, with a covering
of weeds. H.M. surveying vessel Beaver was beached in this position
in 1868, and did not s"nk into the ground beyond one inch.*

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port Simpson at Ih. 30ra. ;
springs rise 17 to 22 feet, neaps 14 to 17 feet.

Chatham sound has very little current as far as the Pointers to the
north of port Simpson, not more than one knot. A strong current sets out
of Nass and Work channels in Chatham sound and then flows out through
Dixon entrance between Dundos islands and Alaska, at the rate of about
2\ knots an hour.

Deviation. — For swinging to ascertain the deviation of the compass
in port Simpson, Table hill on Dundas island 1 2 miles distant is conspicuous.
The bearing of the nob p.t the north end of Table hill, from the anchorage
in port Simpson, is N. 76° 00' W. (true).

Parkin islands consist of two islands lying close together, about
one cable in extent in a N.W. and S.E. direction ; though small, they are
250 feet high, wooded and conspicuous. The south extreme of Parkin
islands lies about 1^ miles N.W. \ N. from the north extreme of Birnie
island, and 6 cables from the nearest shore (Black point).

Maskelyne point, the south-west entrance point of Portland inlet,
and the north-west entrance point of Work channel, lies 3 miles S.E. ^ S.
from Wales point. Vancouver obtained the depth of 8 fathoms, soft bott m,
half a mile from Maskelyne point. Deep water was found within one cable
of that point (1868).

Maskelyne point is situated in latitude 54° 38' 30" N., longitude
130° 27' 0" W.

Work channel, the entrance to which lies close northward of point
Maskelyne, takes a south-easterly direction for about 35 miles ; near its
termination it divides into two arms, one branching off to the north-west
for 5 miles, and then turning suddenly to the norlh-eust for the same
distance ; the other arm continuing to the south-east, and approaching within
one mile of the Skeena river ; this channel has not been examined in
detail since the visit of Vancouver. At its entrance Work channel is barely
4 cables wide, which width it preserves for about 7 miles, when it widens

♦ H.M.S. Virago was repaired on the beach opposite the fort in 18.53. The vessel
was lightened to 11 ft. 6 in. forward, and 12 ft. 6 in. aft, the stores with the exception
of the guns and cables being lodged in the fort. On the 22nd June, during the night
tide, the vessel was warped into her position, and remained there until the 8th July,
during which time the gripe and fore part of main keel (26 feet long) was repaired, and
6.1 sheets of copper replaced on various parts between the bilge and keel. The night
tides were during that period about 3 feet higher than the day.

I
I

M#.l,tl«Jiyfi «l_!J"»(#l?M'>i!,i;»iii!>>'»«»'lW«T*'!

CHAP. XI.]

WORK CHANNEL EDTE PASSAGE.

429

to 1^ miles, and afterwards to 2 miles ; its shores are stated by Vancouver
to be " straight and compact."*

WEST COAST OF CHATHAM SOUND.

PRESCOTT and STEPHENS islands He in the south-
western part of Chatham sound, and are separated by n narrow passage
available only for boats. These islands together are about 12 miles long
in a W. by N. and E. by S. direction, of triangular shape, the base of the
triangle being 4 miles long, and forming the north-west side of Stephens
island.

Prescott island has an elevation of 820 feet. Stephens island attains
an elevation of 1,340 feet near its east end ; its southern shores are com-
paratively low, with some white cliffs near the centre.

Tree-nob groups are a mass of islands, islets, and rocks awash
at low water, which extend 6 miles in a north-westerly direction from
the N.W. side of Stephens island. The larger islets are wooded, and the
smaller bare. Vancouver, who nearly met with disaster among them,
describes them as " an intricate inhospitable labyrinth."

EDYE PASSAGE! lies on the south side of Prescott and Stephens
islands, and is the channel usually taken when communicating between
Chatham sound and Hecate strait, as, by uaing it, vessels avoid the strong
and irregular tides met with in Brown passage. It is comparatively free
from danger, and at its northern end possesses an excellent anchorage
(Refuge bay), in which a vessel may await a favourable opportunity for
proceeding. The general depths in Edye passage vary from 23 fathoms
to no bottom at 40 fathoms.

Cape Ibbetson, the south-west point of entrance of Edye passage, is
situated in latitude 54° 2' 30" N., longitude 130° 42' 45" W.

GoSChen island.— Approaching Edye passage from the southward,
the oval-shaped hill, 630 feet high, near the western extreme of Goschen
island is conspicuous, and at 2 miles northward of that hill lies another,
with a flat summit, 170 feet high. At 3 miles southw vrd of the latter,
the western shore of Goschen island terminates in high vhite cliffs.

• Captain Brundige states that a rock just visible at low water exists in Work
channel a few miles from the entrance. This rock is situated just abreast mount
McNeil, in the centre of the channel. It is described as having a very small top with a
depth of 130 fathoms close to it.

t See Admiralty plan :— Brown and Edye passenges No. 3245 ; scale, »« = 1 inch.

430

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[chap. XI.

The south-western side of Goschen island has several rocks awash, and
sunken rocks extending one mile off it in a westerly direction.

Bess rock, 30 feet high, situated close to the shore of Goschen inland
under Oval hill, is small, and bare.

A rocky ledge, with depths of 4 to 8 fathoms upon it, extends
westward nearly 4 miles from the south-west side of Goschen island, in the
vicinity of the Bass rock.

Clearing mark. — The conspicuous white cliffs on the south side of
Stephens island should not be brought to bear westward of Id'orth when
approaching the western shore of Goschen island.

Seal rocks, a cluster of bare rocks of small extent, 10 feet above high
water, the centre of which lies 5 miles N.W. by W. % W. from the summit
of Oval hill, and 4 miles S.S.W. J W. from cape Ibbetson (south-T,es^
entrancepoint of Edye passage), have depths of 12 to 31 fathoms at 2 cables
from them.

Warrior rocks, two bare rocks 30 feet above high water, lie E. by S.,
and W. by N., distant 8 cables from each other. The eastern rock lies
3| miles N.W. ^ W. from the centre of the Seal rock cluster.

Deep patch., situated at the western entrance of Edye passage, is
stated to have 19 fathoms upon it ; there is, however, piobably less water
on this patch, as kelp was observed growing upon it in August. . =i,.,..i .,

The patch is of small extent, and lies one mile N.N.E. from ct\pe
Ibbetson, and 2^ miles S.W. by W. | W. from the south extreme of
Arthur island.

Clearing mark. — The south extreme of Arthur island (View point)
seen in line with the south-east extreme of that island bearing E. by N. f N.,
will lead northward of Deep patch. • :.■.: .;:• 'y- ■ ,

TruSCOtt patch, with 16 feet water upon it, lies If miles E.N.E.
from cape Ibbetson, and 6 cables from the nearest shore of Henry island.

Foul ground extends otT the south-eastern side of Arthur island to
the distance of 3 cables. ••• , :

Tides. — The flood approaches from the westward, and both streams,
set fairly through Edye passage, with an average rate of 2 knots an hour.

Directions. — Approaching Edye passage from the south-westward,
the eastern portion of the high white cliffs on the south side of Stephens
island should not be brought to bear westward of North until Oval hill, on
Goschen island, is seen in line with Seal rocks bearing S.E. by E. | E.
Thence aN.E. ^ N. course may be steered for the entrance to Edye passage,
taking care not to shut in Oval hill with cape Ibbetson until the south and

»i'-"f,'y "r-wj|- 'I*'"

ciLvr. XI.]

EDYE PASSAGE ; EEFIJGE BAY.

431

south-east points of Arthur island are seen in lino. The latter mark may
then be steered for, bearing E. by N. | N., until Seal rocks are seen in line
with cape Ibbctson bearing S.S.W., when a more easterly course may be
steered to pass half a mile southward of the south extreme of Arthur
island. When the entrance points of Refuge bay are seen in line, that mark
may be steered for, bearing N.E. by N., taking care to avoid the small
patch, which uncovers at low water, 3 cables from the south point of Useless
bay. Pass 2 to 3 cables westward of the south entrance point of Refuge
bay (Pearco point), and if not desirous of anchoring in that bay, a
N.W. by N. course should be steered towards Rachel islands, passing
midway between that group and Gull rocks, whence steer as requisite for
destination.

REFUGE BAY,* situated at the north-west extreme of Porcher
island, at the north entrance of Edye passage, is an excellent stopping
place during south-easterly winds, or if desirous of proceeding to sea
from Chatham sound by the Edye passage, the state of the weather
in Hecate strait can be ascertained. The bay is 7 cables wide between
its entrance points, and takes a south-easterly direction for about on<» mile,
terminating in a sand-flat which extends nearly half a mile from its head.

The depths in the middle of the bay are from 14 to 23 fathoms, sand,
shoaling gradually towards either shore.

AucllOrage will be found in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand and mud, near
the middle (tf the bay, about 2 cables from the north and south shores,
with the north ontrance point (Table point) bearing N.N.W., and Pearce
point bearing W. by S. ^ S.

Ti(ies. — It is high water, full and change, in Refuge bay at 1 h. 30 m. ;
springs rise 17 to 22, neaps 14 to 17 feet.

BROWN PASSAGE between Tree nob islands and South Dundas
islands, is about 5 miles long in an E. by N. and W. by S. direction, and
5 miles wide.

Nearly in mid-channel, however, lies a cluster of rocks, awash at high
water, which divides Brown passage into two channels.

Butterworth rocks, are a dangerous cluster of rocks, the southern-
most of which is 10 feet above high water, with several patches which
uncover at low water extending from it in a north-westerly direction to
the distance of three-quarters of a mile. This rock lies 3^ miles
S.S.W. ^ W. from Bare island, the south-western island of the Tree nob
group; with that island in line with some wooded islands forming the north-
west cluster of Tree nob group (Osborne islands).

There is deep water between Butterworth rocks and Tree nob islands.

♦ See Admiralty plan : —Refuge bay, on sheet No. 2,453 ; scale, m = 4 inches.

432

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[chap. XI.

StenhOUSO shoal, a dangerous patch with 7 leet least water upon
it, ftnd ' epo 'ted to be 50 ys'-ds in extent, lio« at the western entrance
of Brown passage, 6^ miles S.W. J W. from Cape islet, the south extreme
of South Dundas Island ; 5 J miles W. by S. from the Hanraer rocks ; and
5 miles W. by N. ^ N. from the outer Osborne Island.

North breaker, over which the sea usually breaks, is the outer
known danger extending north-west from the Tree nob group, and lies
one mile W.N.W. from the outer Osborne island.

Hanmer rock, a dangerous rock, nearly in mid-channel, 2^ miles
N. by E. from the outer Osborne island, and 2^ miles S. | W. from Cape
islet, is awash at high water, with depths of 12 and 32 fathoms close to ;
there are several patches which uncover, extending from Hanmer rock in
a V/.N.W. direction to the distance of three-quarters of a mile.

Simpson rock lies on the north sid** '^f Brown passage three-quarters
of a mile S. by W. from Cape islet ; this rock is 6 feet above high water,
with rocks awash extending half a mile westward, and a depth of
17 fathoms at 4 cables southward of it; there is a patch which uncovers
3 feet at low water, at 3 cables S.E. of Simpson rock.

Beaver rock, with 12 feet water on it, lies 1^ miles S.S.E. from the
S.E. extreme of South Dundas island (Deans point) ; several patches oi.
rock lie between Beaver rock and the shore of South Dundas island.
There are depths of 13 and 17 fathoms at 4 cables southward of Beaver
rock.

Soundings. — The water in Brown passage is deep, being over 39
fathoms. Depths of 20 fathoms and less extend from one mile to 1^ miles
off the south shore of Dundas island.

Tides. — In Brown passage the tides set fairly through at an average
rate of 2 knots an hour. The flood stream sets to the eastward, and off
the western entrance to this passage the tides are strong and complicated.

Directions. — Brown passage is not recommended to a stranger, but
should circumstances compel him to make use of it, the eastern peak of the
four-peak range, on South Dundas islands, should be steered for, bearing
N.E. by N., until the eastern and highest Lucy island bears E.N.E., which
will lead through Brown passage south of Hanmer rock, or bearing E. | N.
will lead through, northward of this rock.

QLAWDZEET ANCHORAGE* lies on the north-west side
of Stephens island, and it was into this bay Vancouver was conducted by
the officer of the Buttertcorth from his dangerous position amidst the Tree
nol) gi'oup. Qlawdzeet is exposed to the N.W., is three-quarters of a mile
wide at its entrance, and one mile deep in a southerly direction.

* See Admiralty plan: Qlawdzeet anchorage, on sheet No. 2,453 ; scale, mEs4'0 inches.

CHAP. XI.] BROWN PASSAGE. — QLAWDZEET ANCHORAGE, &C. 433

Entrance reef, awnsh at high water, lies 2 cables N.W. from the
eastern entrance point of QIawdzeet bay.

Directions. — The entrance to QIawdzeet bay will be made if the
north extreme of Tiigwell island is kept in line (astern) with the eastern
island of the Lucy group, bearing N.N.E, ^ E.

Keep in mid-channel when entering, and anchor at 3 cables within the bay
and 1^ cables off the south shore, in 12 to 14 fathoms, mud bottom, with
the eastern entrance point of the bay bearing N.E. ^ N., distant 4 cables,
and the western entrance point bearing W. by N. ^ N., distant 6 cables.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at QIawdzeet anchorage at
1 h. 30 ra. ; springs rise 17 to 22, neaps 14 to 17 feet.

Bf^y islands, on the south side of South Dundas island, are reported
to afford anchorage off their north-west side. The " Butterworth," how-
ever, " on coming out struck upon a rock which seemed to be a small
pinnacle by itself as no soundings were gained near it." {See Vancouver's
Voi/ares, Vol. II., p. 325.)

The examination of this locality has shown the existence of many
sunken rocks, the anchorage under Bay islands should therefore not be
attempted.

DUNDAS ISLANDS, on the western side of Chatham sound,
were so named by Vancouver ; they consist of three islands, the northern-
most being the largest and highest. A number of smaller islands (Moffat
islands) lie close to the eastern shores of South and Middle Dundas islands.
The western shores of the group have not been thoroughly examined but
they are much broken into bays and inlets, with several small off-lying
islets.

South Dundas island is about 3 miles long, in a N.W. and S.E.
direction, and 5 miles broad, its shores being comparatively low, wooded,
and broken into bays on the south and western sides. Near the middle of
the island a mountain range rises to the height of 1,400 feet, with four
conspicuous peaks which lie in a N.E. and S.W. direction. The eastern
and highest peak of this range is 1,400 feet high, the western and lowest
1,100 feet high.

Middle Dundas island lies about 2 miles to the north-west-
ward of South Dundas island, the passage between being obstructed by
numerous low, wooded islets, rocks, and sunken dangers. The island is
nearly 5 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with a greatest breadth
of 5 miles ; it is mostly low and wooded, with numerous creeks and bays
on its shores. Near the southern end of the island the land suddenly
rises in an oval-shaped hill (Coast mound) 750 feet high, which ia a

useful land-mark.
17408.

K B

434<

CHATHAM SOUND, &0.

[chap. XX.

Conuel islands, » group of small wooded islands, lie off the
western side of Middle Dundas island. The outer or south-western
island of the group lies off the entrance to the passage between South
and Middle Dundas islands, about 2 miles from the western shores of the
latter, and 7 miles N.W. from Osborne islands.

North Dundas island is about 12 miles long, in a north and
south direction, and about 7 miles broad near its north end. This island,
the highest and largest of the group, culminates in a mountain with a
thumb-shaped summit, 2,500 feet high, about 4 miles from the south end
of the island. Near the north extreme of North Dundas island there is
a hill 700 feet high, with a flat top, and a nob near its north end (Table
hill), a most conspicuous and useful mark. The eastern shore of North
Dundas island is but little broken ; bold, with a range of coast hills about
300 feet high, rising immediately above it. On the northern side, nearly
midway between Whitley point and White islands there is a deep bay,
though useless as an anchorage, at the entrance to which lies a group of
small wooded islets (Gnarled islands). Off the north-west extreme of the
island, close to the shore, are two conspicuous rocks (White rocks).

The western shore of North Dundas island has not been examined
in detail. Several islands were, however, seen lying off that shore to the
distance of 2 miles.

Captain Brundige put into a small harbour on the north end of North
Dundas island. " He says, I found a small river there which extended 5 miles
or more into the island."

ZAYAS ISLAND is the largest of the islands which lie off the
western shore of North Dundas island. The extent of this island has
not been ascertained, but it appeared to be about 4 miles long, in a north
and south direction, and about two miles broad, wooded, and about
250 feet high. A ledge of rocks, which uncover at low water, was
observed to extend nearly one mile from the north-west extreme of Zayas
island. From the west side of the island, rocks are said to extend 3 miles.*

Zayas island appeared flat and heavily timbered and probably 3 or 4
miles in extent, f

CHANNEL ISLANDS are a group of wooded islands, about
100 feet high, extending across the channel between Middle and North

* It has been reported that an uncovering rock lies in mid-channel between Zayas
and North Dundas island, two more rocks rather close in on north side of Zayas, and
three small islets less than one mile from its north-west extreme (probably White islets
of the chart.) Besides these, dangers, (presumably sunken), are shown as lying 3 mlloa
west from the north-west point of North Dundas, and 2 miles north from the north-
west extreme of Zayas.

t Lieutenant Commander Nicholls, U.S.N., 1881.

CHAP. XI.] ZATA8 ISLAND. — POINTER AND C0NNI8 ROCKS.

435

Duiulas islniuls. This group renders that channel useless for any but the
smallest class of sailing veosel. The passage, however, is frequently used
by the Ilydah Indians, in their largo canoes, when proceeding from Qtieen
Charlotte islands to port Simpson.

Mofffltt islands consist of six principal wooded islands and several
lesser ones, the highest being about 250 feet in height. This group,
which lies close to the eastern, shore of the Dundas islands, extends over
a distance- of 6 miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction. When abreast, tiiese
islands show out well, being covered with pine trees of a peculiar deep
green foliage.

Ducie island is a small wooded islet, .350 feet high, lying one mile
N.W. from the Moffat group. Two conspicuous white rocks, 30 feet high,
lie 3 cables westward of Ducie island.

Whitesand islet la «■ small sandy islet, about 10 feet above high
water, lying G cables N.E. by E., from Ducie island. A ledge of rocks,
which uncover, extends N.W. and S.E. from Whitesand islet, to the distance
of 4 cables.

Hammond rock, of small extent, "uth 9 feet water over it, lies
9 cables E.N.E. from the south-eastern extreme of the S.E. Moflfat
island, and 4J miles E. ^ N. from Coast mound. This rock has 34
fathoms close northward of it.

Coghlan rock, with 3 feet water, and 6 and 7 fathoms close around,
lies 2 miles N.W. \ N. from Hammond rock, and SJ miles N.E. by E. ^ E.
from the summit of Coast mound. There are depths of 43 and 46 fathoms,
mud bottom, at one mile northward of this rock.

Brodie rock lies 3| miles N.W. from Coghlan rock. This dangerous
pinnacle I'ock has only 3 feet water over it at" low water, with depths of
26 and 33 fathoms at a distance of 100 feet.

The Rachel group of islands, kept open northward of the Lucy group,
bearing S.E. ^ S. will lead northward of the above-mentioned dangers ;
but during a fog, or in thick weather, the western shore of Chatham sound
must not be approached under the depth of 40 fathoms.

Pointers rocks, are a dangerous cluster of bare rocks, 3 feet above
high water, about 2 cables in extent in a north and south direction. The
southernmost and highest rock lies 3 miles W.N.W. from the north extreme
of Finlayson island and 2J miles W.S.W. from the north extreme of
Birnie island. There are depths of 40 fathoms, no bottom, at half a cable
westward ; and 12 fathoms, rocky bottom, at one cable eastward of Pointers
rocks.

ConniS rocks consist of one large and several small rocks, nearly
in the middle of Main passage into Chatham sound, abreast port Simpson.

E B 2

436

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[chap. XI.

The BoutlionmiOHt and liighost rock, lo feet above high water, is bare, ami
from it rockw extend 2 cables in a northerly direction. The summit of
this rock lies 5 miles W.S.W. from the north extreme of Finlayson island,
Jind 3| miles S.S.W. | "VV. from I'ointers roeks.

There are depths of 81 fathoms, 91 fathoms, and 92 fathoms, mud
bottom, at the distance of one mile, 8.E., S.W., and N.E., of these rocks
respectively.

Vancouver remarks : — " These in the daytime and clear weather arc
*' easily avoided, as there are always some of them above the surface of
" the water; but in dark nights, or foggy weather, tliey must render the
*' navigation of the sound very dangerous."

Green islet, situated on the western shore of Chatham sou;id, about
1^ miles from North Dundas island, is covered with long grass during
the summer. It is small, 40 feet above high witer, and has a small bare
rock lying close northward, and another close southward.

The middle and largest islet lies 3 miles S.W. by W, from the Connis
rocks.

Grey islet is a small burc rock, of i\ greyish colour, 30 feet above
high Avater, 9 cables North from Green islet.

A sunken reck, with 6 feet water upon it, lies one mile W.N.W.
from Grey islet. There are depths of 19 and 27 fathoms at one cable from
this rock.

A sunken rock, with 4 .feet water upon it, lies 3 cables South
from Grey islet, between it and Green islet.

MAIN PASSAGE, situated between Pointers and Connis rocks,

is 3^ miles wide, with depths of 128 fathoms, at one mile south-west of

Pointers, and 92 fathoms, at one mile north-east of Connis rocks. Both

Connis and Pointers rocks may be approached to within a distance of l.alf

. a mile.

OBIFLAMME PASSAGE lies westward of Connis rocks,
between that cluster and Green and Grey islets. It is nearly 3 miles wide,
with depths of 23 fathoms at 2 cables eastward of Green islet, and 65 and
70 fathoms, mud bottom, at 7 cables southward of Connis rocks.

The passage between Dundas island and the Green and Grey islets, ia
nearly 1^ miles wide. The tides in this passage are strong, and the
channel is not recommended to a stranger.

Gnarled islands, a group of wooded islands, about one mile in
extent in an east and west direction, lying o£E the north-west side of the
North Duudos island, is from 150 to 250 feet in height ; the eastern islet
lies 2\ miles W. ^ N. from the N.E. extreme of the Dundas group.

p^i^i|>""iF|n wi.i.<p~vfnw

CHAP. XI.]

DIXON ENTRANCE.

437

The channel between Duiidas and Gnurled islands ia obutruuted
ledges which uncover, and sunken rockH.

White islands are two bare rocks, about 30 feet higli, lying
half a mile from the north-west extreme of North Dundaa isluiul.

DIXON ENTRANCE* is the channel between Prince of Wales
and Queen Charlotte islands, passing northward of Dundas islands. Several
sunken rocks, of doubtful position, are reported to lie in the western part
of this passage, on or near a lino joining the north end of the Dundas group
and the south end of the Prince of Wales group.f

Various positions have been assigned to the Enst Devil rock (one of the
dangers lying in Dixon entrance), but Captain Brundigo slates that it is
situated about 4 miles north-westward of Zayas island, in latitude 54'^40'N,
longitude 131° 6' W. According to the rc.ji -t of the commander of the
Hudson Bay Company's Seamer Otter, Devil ruck is marked by a breaker,
and is awash at low water.

McCullough rock on which the sea breaks is iid to have been dis-
covered by Captain McCullough. From it tiie north-west end of Zayas
island bears N.E. ^ E., and the soutiiern end East, whilst the western shore
of Zayas island is distant about 3 mile; in a S.E. ^ B. direction.

Cape Pox, so named by Vancouver, li^s about 7 miles N.N.W.
from the Gnarled island group, and terminates in remarkable high,
white cliffs, with a conspicuous saddle-shaped mountain 2,066 feet high,
immediately over it.

Lord islands, a group of about one mile iu extent, lying 2| miles
south-east from cape Fox, is wooded and about 250 feet high ; the south-
west island is distant 5 miles from the outer or north-western island of the
Gnarled island gi-oup.

Lord rock, which uncovers 3 feet at low water, lies 8 cables
S.W. by S. from the south-west island of the Lord group.

Soundings. — At 8 cables northward of the Gnarled island group, .
1.1 .ere is a depth of 155 fathoms, rocky bottom ; and at 8 cables southward
of the Lord island group, a depth of 73 fathoms, gravel bottom was
obtained. The depths in raid-channel are 103 and 110 fathoms, gravel

* See Admiralty chart : — Port Simpson to Cross sound, No. 2,431 ; scale m = 0'13
of an inch.

t The position of a danger, t -med the West Devil rock, was approximately deter-
mined by Captain Carroll commanding the steamer Jt/aAo on November 23rd, 1883.
He places it in latitude 54° 41' 30" N. k-ng-tude 131° 31' 0" W. This officer also
reports that on April 13th of the same year he sighted a breaker about 7 miles S.E. f E.
from Cape Chacon, and that the Nunez reef lies 6 miles S. by £. ^ E. from the sunf
eape.

438

CHATHAM SOUND, &0.

[CUAP. XI.

bottom; deepenir,' to 170 and 214 fathoms as Chatham sound is
approached.

Nakat inlet has its entrance between cape Fox and Tongass island,
and extends about 11 miles in a N.N.W. direction.*

Nakat inlet was explored by Vancouver in 1793. lie says, " The inlet took
a nearly north direction, and at half a league from the entrance point the
eastern shore formed three small bays or coves vnth four or five .islets
before them. From this the trend of the inlet was N. 8° W ; the shores
nearly straight and compact, and in general about half a mile asunder.
The surrounding land was of moderate height, and of that uneven surface
generally exhibited by the insular countries lying on the sea coast. The
head of the arm terminated in a small fresh-water brook flowing from
low marshy ground. Before it were several rocks and some rocky islets.
On the low land forming the upper extremity of this arm, we saw some
animals like wolves, but the shallowness of the water pi'evented us approach-
ing near enough to fire.

TONGASS ISLAND, about 3 miles eastward of Cape Fox, and
about 16 miles north-west of port Simpson, was chosen in 1867 as a
military post by the United States, after purchasing Alaska. Fort Tongass
is small, and was garrisoned by one Company (1868) ; the settlement is
dreary, and the almost constant rain and soft soil produces mud of a most
tenacious nature.

Anchorage. — The approaches to Tongass settlement are intricate
and require local knowledge ; the anchorage abreast the fort is bad, with
deep water nnd limited accommodation even for a vessel of moderate length.
H.M.S. Sparrowhawk experienced great difficulty in turning abreast fort
Tongass owing to wind and tide.

Directions. — The principal approach to Tongass is from the west-
ward and is about half a mile wide. There are said to be depths of 5 and
8 fathoms within this passage.

The approach from the south-east is about 3 miles long, and passing
between numerous islets, is in places barely one cable wide. The depths
in this passage are said to be from 5 to 16 fathoms.

At the southern end of the narrows is a dangerous shoal, in mid-channel,
which is best avoided by keeping near the shore, but care should be taken
not to overdo it, as the bottom is shelving, and deep water will not be
found quite close to the bank. When past the above-mentioned shoal and

• In Nakat inlet, in the further bight inside the group of islands, in a well sheltered
harbour with anchorage in less than 1 5 fathomB which has been visited by IT.S.S. Hatiltr,
United States Pacific Coast Surrey, 1883.

CHAP. XI.]

TONGASS ISLAND. — WALES ISLAND.

439

about half a mile inside, a mid-channel course can be steered up to the large
opening on the west shore, when, by crossing over to that shore, the shoal
water off the mouths of two rivers, which will be seen on the eastern shore,
will be avoided. ■:..'■

After passing the northernmost of the two rivers the eastern shore
should be again closed, which will then be found to have deep water close
to it. Keep along this shore till nearly up to Ward cove, when steer to
pass west of the islands off it, after which pass north of the rocks and
islets north of cape Vallinas.*

The following is from a report to the U.S. Government upon Tongass : —
The harbour, in and about it, is in rather a bad situation, surrounded by
rocks, reefs, and shoals, on the outside and inside.

TlOChopcity harbour (or Clement's city), is one of the south-
eastern approaches to Tongass from Chatham sound. This passage is
intricate and constricted.

Boston islands, lying off Wales island, at the south-eastern approach
to Tongass, are about one mile in extent, in an east and west direction.
The larger islands are wooded, about 150 feet high ; the smaller ones are
bare, 50 feet high. The western island is 450 feet high, round, wooded,
and conspicuous.

A ledge, which uncovers at Ioav water, lies one mile E. by S. from the
easternmost of the Boston islands, and one mile from the nearest shore
of Wales island.

WALES ISLAND; situated on the north-west side of the entrance
to Portland inlet, is about 7 miles long in an east and west direction, its
north-eastern side being about 4 miles long. The north-eastern shore is
bold, with some conspicuous cliffs of red-brown colour, nearly aidway
between the north and south extremes of the island. A small islet lies
close to the shore at the north extreme. On the south side, about one
mile westward of Wales point, the south-east extreme of Wales island, a
deep bay faces south-eastward, and within it are some patches whioli
uncover, and rocks awash. A wooded islet, about half a mile long, in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, lies ofFthe entrance to this bay, 1^ miles S.W. ^ W.
from Wales point. A smaller islet lies one mile south-westward of the
larger one.

Entry peak, about half a mile north-west of Wales point, is 1,400
i'iet high, of triangular shape, with a sharp conspicuous summit. A
mountain, with a flat summit, 1,100 feet high, is situated near the middle
of Wales island.

* Lieutenant Long, B.N., H.M.S. Mulint, 1888.

4di0

CHATHAM SOUND, &C.

[CIIAF. XI.

Cod bank, with depths of 33 and 47 fathoms, mud and shells, lies
between Pointers rocks and Parkin island, extending from the latter
within the 50 fathom line, to the distance of 1^ miles.

There is a depth of 109 fathoms, mud bottom, at 5 cables south, and
99 fathoms, rock, at 5 cables north of Cod bank. Cod fish of large size are
caught upon this bank.

Tides. — The tides in Dixon entrance and Brown passage, especially
in the western parts of those channels, are variable and complicated. The
flood stream approaching from the southward up Hecate strait is met by the
stream passing westward and northward of Queen Charlotte islands at
about 15 miles eastward of Rose point, or about midway between the north-
east extreme of Queen Charlotte islands and the Tree nob group. North-
ward of that position this meeting of the streams produces tidal irregularities,
and at spring tides or during bad weather the turmoil caused "by the
meeting of the streams is so great as to convey an appeai'ance of broken
waters to that portion of them which lies between Queen Charlotte islands.
Brown passage, and Dixon Entrance. In Chatham sound the tides set
fairly through.

S
'4

■i

("-'•■■<

441

•S

1
1

CHAPTER XII.

INNER WATERS. — LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Variation in 1888.
Laredo sound, 26° 00' E. | Ogden channel, 26° 40' E.

LAREDO SOUND,* situated between Price and Aristazable
islands, and connecting Hecate strait with Laredo channel, is nearly 20
miles long in a general N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and from 3 to 14
miles wide.

Landmarks. — Kititstu hill on the north-eastern shore of the
sound, is of triangular shape, with a well defined summit 760 feet
high. Over the north shore of the sound rise three remarkable moun-
tains, the summits of the two northern having sharp pinnacles (north
and south Needle peaks), 2,600 and 2,800 feet in height. The summit
of the southern and lowest of the three peaks (Cone mountain) is
of conical shape, 2,400 feet high. At 4 miles from the eastern extreme
of Aristazable island, two conspicuous hills, forming a saddle, rise to the
height of 640 feet.

Coast. — The eastern shore of Laredo sound is low, wooded, much broken
into bays and creeks, and fringed by numerous islets, rocks awash, and
sunken rocks, to the distance of 2 miles from the west coast of Price island.
Outer island, which lies off Day point, when seen from Laredo sound
appears round and well defined.

At the western entrance of the sound a group of islands and islets extend
from Aristazable island for a distance of more than 5 miles in a south-
easterly direction.

Entrance island, 250 feet high, and three-quarters of a mile long
in a north-west and south-east direction, is the outer of a chain of islands
lying off the south extreme of Aristazable island.

* See Admiralty charts : — Cape Caution to port Simpson, southera portion, No.
1,923 b ; Bcale, m=0'25 of an inch ; also northern portion, No. 1923 a ; scale, m = 0-25
of an inch.

442

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[chap. xu.

If dib rock, a dangerous sunken rock, over which the sea only breaks
at long intervals, lies 3^% miles S.E. by E. from the Bummit of Entrance
island.

The ground is foul to the distance of one mile south-east from the rock,
and several ledges uncover at low water between Nab rock and Entrance
island.

Don point, situated on the western shore of Laredo sound, 4 miles
N. by E., from the summit of Entrance island, is a peninsula 1 50 feet
high, and when first seen, appears as an island. Close northward of Don
point is a small cove, which affords shelter to boats.

Double island, on the eastern shore of the sound, 16J miles
N.W. ^ N., from the summit of Outer island, is wooded, about 100 feet
high, and divided near the centre by a cleft which causes it to appear as
two islands, when seen from the southward and northward.

Low point, wooded and flat, lies 2^ miles N.N.W. from the summit
of Double island.

Low rock, which uncovers at low water, lies 4 cables N.N.W. from
Low point.

Schooner point is the turning point into Laredo channel, and lies
7 miles N. by W. from Don po ut. The coast of Aristazable island between
Schooner and Don points is bold and rocky.

Schooner ledge, which uncovers at low water, lies 3 cables northward
of Schooner point.

South Bay islands, ^ group of small extent, lie at the head of Laredo
sound. The larger islands are wooded, and 250 feet high. The centre
island of the group lies 2^ miles N. ^ W. from Low point, and 3^ miles
E.N.E. from Schooner point.

North Bay islands consist of three principal wooded islets, of
small extent, 250 feet high. The centre island of the group lies 1^ miles
N.W. from the centre island of the South Bay group. , . ,

Steep point} high t"id bold, forming the north-east entrance point
of Laredo channel, lies 2 miles N. by E. from Schooner point.

Soundings. — At 3 miles W.S.W. of Outer island there is a depth
of 100 fathoms, mud. At 9 miles W. J^ N. from that island, and 4 miles
south-east of Nab rock, a depth of 19 fathoms, rock, was obtained.
Between those positions the depths are from 42 to 65 fathoms, sand. This
bank of comparatively shoal water stretching across the mouth of Laredo
sound, should serve to distinguish that sound, in thick or foggy weather,
from Milbank sound, there being depths of over 120 fathoms at the entrance
of the latter.

CHAP.xii.] lABEDO SOUND. — LAEEDO CHANNEL.

44.3

Directions. — Small sailing coasting vessels, to avoid the light winds
and calms which frequently prevail in the inner channels, make use of
Laredo sound and the channels leading northward from it, as the wind
seldom fails them there.

In clear weather, if Outer island be not brought to bear' southward of
East, a vessel will pass south of Nab rock. Kit it stu hill steered for
on a N. J^ E. bearing will lead eastward, and Schooner point bearing
N.N.W. leads northward of Nab rock. Pass one mile oiF Schooner point
and proceed through Laredo channel as herein-after directed.

LAREDO CHANNEL, between Princess Royal and Aristazable
islands, is about 20 miles long in a general N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.
direction, and from 2 to 5 miles wide.

At 6 miles within the eastern entrance Laredo channel is obstructed by
a group of islands and islets, which contracts the navigable channel to
barely 7 cables wide. Westward of that group, the channel again widens
out, and attains a width of 5 miles at its western end.

Fury point on the south shore, terminates in black, smooth,
rocks. A small bay, with a sandy beach at its head, and an islet at
its entrance, lies close eastward of Fury point. The point lies 4 miles
N.W. by W. |- W. from Schooner point. ''- ' -•

Beaver ledge uncovers at low water, and lies half a mile from the
south shore, at l^^^ miles westward of Schooner point. There is deep
water close northward of this ledge.

Islet rock lies close southward of a small islet on the north shore, at
1^ miles westward of Steep point.

South Channel islands, consisting of five principal wooded
islands, 150 feet high, and about one mile in extent in an east and west
direction, lie nearly in mid-channel, 6 miles from Schooner point.

North Channel islands consist of two principal wooded islands
of small extent. The eastern island of the group lies 1^ miles N.W. by W.
from the western island of the South Channel group.

Channel rock is a dangerous sunken rock, lying nearly in mid-
channel, 6 cables S.E. by E. from the eastern islet of the South Channel
group.

Bluff point lies on the south shore 7^ miles N.W. by W. ^ W., from
Fury point ; it is high and bold, with a hill 400 feet high rising immediately
over it. On the north shore of Laredo channel, abreast Bluff point, is
an islet at the mouth 0. .creek. , , .

Seal rocks, which cover at high water, and are of small extent, lie
half a mile from the south shore, 2 miles W.N.W. from Bluff point.
There is deep water at two cablee northward of Seal rocks.

444

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xii.

Sandspit point, situated N.W. by W., 5^ miles from Bluff point,
is white and conspicuous, with a ridge of bare hills, 700 to 950 feet high,
immediately over it. . '

Sandspit shoal extends half a mile northward from Sandspit
point.

Devils point, the western entrance point of Laredo channel, lies
4 miles W.N.W. from Sandspit point. Over this point is a bare hill with
a conspicuous boulder or nob on its summit.

Spray point, the north-east entrai.ce point of Laredo channel, is
bold, high, and lies 5 miles N.E. by E. | E. from Devils point. At one
mile eastward of Spray point a small islet lies close to the north shore.

Soundings. — No bottom could be obtained at 40 fathoms in Laredo
channel.

Tides. — The flood stream which approaches from Laredo sound,
increases in strength as the Channel island group is approached, attaining
a velocity of 6 knots an hour at springs, in the channel north of that
group (Surge narrows).*

In the wider portions of Laredo channel both streams attain a velocity
of 3 knots an hour at springs.

Midway between Devils and Spray points, the flood stream by Laredo
channel is met by the stream passing round the north-west end of Aris-
tazable island, causing at springs dangerous tidal races in that locality.

The ebb stream having divided in mid-channel off Devils point, one
portion sets round the north-west end of Aristazable island. The other sets
fairly down Laredo channel, and attains a velocity of 6 knots an hour,
at springs, in Surge narrows. From Surge narrows the ebb stream sets
directly towards Fury point, and thence sweeps along the southern shore
of the channel, passing across Laredo sound to Low point, whence it is
deflected and sets fairly to the southward.

Directions. — Having rounded Schooner point at a distance of one
jiile, a N.W. by W. | W. course for 6 miles should lead into Surge
narrows, taking care, especially if the ebb stream be running, to avoid
Channel rock.

V^estward of Surge narrows, a general course of N.W. by W. ^ W. will
lead through Laredo channel to the entrance of Estevan sound.

CAMPANIA SOUND between Princess Royal and Campania
islands, is 5 miles long in a general N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and
3 miles wide.f -

* It is high •water, full and chanc". in Surge narrows at 6h. Om. ; springs rise 12 feet,
t H.M.S. Hf oine passed out in 1883. Beniark book Navigating OflBcer H.M.S.
Heroine.

OHAP. xn.]

CAMPA-NIA SOUND. — GIL ISLAND.

415

On the eastern shore of the sound, a conspicuous ridge of bills, with
rounded summits, rise to the height of 900 feet, and the coast is slightly
broken into a few useless bays and creeks.

On the western shore, the coast off Campania island is indented with
a few rocky bays. At the south-west entrance of the sound, 3 cables
from the south-east extreme of Campania island, lies Eclipse island, a small
wooded islet, 100 feet high.

The western shore of the sound, for one mile northward of Eclipse
island, has ledges which uncover to the distance ot half a mile. Northward
of that position, the western shore has no known danger beyond 2 cables

from it.

The eastern shore of the sound has ledges extending from it lo a

distance of half a mile.

South Surf islands, situated at the south-east ei:trance of
Campania sound, consist of three wooded islands 250 feet high, with
several small rocky islets close to.

North Surf islands, 250 feet high, lying three-quarters of a mile
W. by N. ^ N. from South Surf islands, consist of three wooded islands
one mile in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E.

Soundings. — No bottom at 40 fathoms could be obtained in Campania
sound.

SQUALLY CHANNEL, situated between Gil and Campania
islands, is 10 miles long in an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction, and from
2^ to 4| miles wide.

GIL ISLAND,* which forms the north side of Squally channel, is
15 miles long in a N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and 6 miles
broad. Turtle point, the north extreme of the island, is a peninsula, with
small bays east and west of it. The north shore hts a few indentations
along it, scarcely deep enough to be called bays.

Mount Gil is situated near the north-east end of the island, and attains
the elevation of 3,000 feet^ the summit being well defined, and always
clad with snow on the north side ; from mount Gil the land slopes
gradually towards the north extreme of the island.

A ridge of mountains, 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, extends in a southerly
direction from mount Gil, curving gradually to the south-eastward, and
terminating at about 3 miles from the south end of the island.

The south-east extreme of Gil island is wooded, flat, and low.

Channel root uncovers at low water, and extends half a mile from
the south extreme of Gil island (Ledge point), and fringes the shore of

* IbIo de Gil of the early Spanish charts, and Vancouver.

446

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [okap.xii.

that island, at the same distance, for IJ^ miles north-westward of Ledge
point.

Windy islets are a group of three islets, the outer of which lies
half a mile from the south-west shore of Gil island, at 2 miles westward of
Ledge point.

Windy rock uncovers at low water, and lies half a mile E.S.E.
from the outer or south Windy islet. There is a depth of 20 fathoms
at one cable south of the rock.

Black rock, situated on the north shore of Squally channel at

2 cables from the south-west extreme of Gil island (Blackrock point), the
turning point into Lewis passage, covers at high water, is small, and
nearly steep-to.

Soundings. — The depths in Squally channel are from 15 fathoms
to no bottom at 40 fathoms. The south side of Squally channel has no
known danger beyond one cable from the shore.

Weather, — Violent squalls will often be experienced in Squally
channel, descending from the high land of Campania island, when calms
or light winds and smooth water will be found in Whale channel,

LEWIS PASSAGE, between Gil and Fin islands, takes a
northerly direction for 4 miles, thence a north-west direction for 4 miles
into Wright sound, with an average width of 1 J miles.

The eastern shore of Lewis passage has no known danger beyond half a
cable from the shore. •

PIN ISLAND, 2 miles westward of Gil island, is 4 miles long in a
north and south direction, with an average breadth of 1^ miles. Plover
point, the north extreme of Fin island, has a deep bay close southward of it,
with several islets lying off the entrance to the bay, which dries throughout
at low water. Four bare rocky islets fringe the north shore of Fin island,
at the distance of one cable.

Fin rock, awash at high water, lies on the western shore of the
channel, 2 cables from the south extreme of Fin island. .j.fi»».^

CBIDGE PASSAGE, between Fin and Farrant islands, is

3 miles long in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and one mile wide
There is no bottom at 40 fathoms in mid-channel in Cridge passage.

PARIIANT ISLAND, at the south-east entrance of Grenville
channel, is 9 miles long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and from

4 to 6 miles broad. The land on the south side of Farrant island reaches
an elevation of 1,700 feet. . ., .,.,.,. ,..-.-- „

■I'-Vni

ciiAP.xn.] SQUALLY CHANNEL. — WHALE CHANNEL.

'447

Blossom point) tl^e south extreme of the island, has a small islet
lying close to, with a ledge extending one cable south-west from it.

Block head, the eastern extreme of Farrant island, terminates in a
high, bold, white cliff. The coast between Block head and Yolk point is
broken into several bays ; the largest lies close under the latter point, and
has two patches of rock which uncover, lying 2 cables from the shore at
its entrance.

Yolk point, the noi-th-east extreme of the island, lies 3J miles
W. by N. ^ N. from the north extreme of Gil island, and 4 miles N.W.
from Block head. Yolk point is smooth, bare, and rocky, and is
nearly steep-to.

Yolk point is situated in latitude 53° 22 30" N., longitude 129° 21' 15" W.

Davenport point, the north extreme of Farrant island, is bold,

and lies 3 miles W.N. W. from Yolk point. •>; •• •

Union Passage (Matliksimtas), between*Farrant and Pitt islands,
enters Grenville channel about 4 miles westward of Yolk point. Thig
passage has not been explored.

WHALE CHANNEL, between Princess Royal and Gil islands,
is 12 miles long in a general N.N.W. ^ W. and S.S.E. ^ E. direction,
and from 2 to 3 miles wide. There is no known danger in this <;hannel
beyond 2 cables from the shore. There is no bottom at 40 fathoms in
Whale channel.

Leading point, on the eastern shore, 5 miles southward of Holmes
bay {see page 393), has immediately over it a conspicuous hill, of triangular
shape, 700 feet high.

River bight, between Holmes bay and Leading point, is a deep
indentation with a large river at its head.

Maple point, on the western shore, abreast of Holmes bay, is
comparatively low, and wooded, with many maple trees growing.

At one mile sohth of Maple point is a sandy bay, with a conspicuous
sandy beach at its head.

Shrub point, on the western shore, 5 miles southward of Maple
point, is comparatively low, flat, and wooded.

Camp islet, a small, conspicuous, wooded islet, lying 2 cables from
the western shore, at 9 miles southward of Maple point, is connected with
the eastern shore of Gil island at low water.

South of C^mp islet there is a comparatively deep bay, one nii'e wide
at its entrance ; but which at low water is blocked by a ledge of rocks
which uncover.

Molly point, on the western shore, one mile south-east of Camp
islet, is the turniDg point of Whale channel into Campaaia sound.

U8'

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [oiup. xir.

Trouble island, >* small, narrow, low island, lies one cable from
the eiistern shore, at the south entrance to Whale channel.

Barnard cove, south-east of Trouble island, affords shelter to boata
and small craft. Pass in mid-channel between Trouble island and the eastern
shore of Whale channel, and anchor in 20 fathoms, mud, in the eastern
part of the cove, at 2 cables from the eastern shore.

Passage island, situated at the j'^nction of Whale channel and
Campania sound, is 2 miles long in a north and south direction and one
mile broad. It is wooded, the tops of the trees being about 250 feet above
high water. Off the south-east side of Passage island, a group of islets,
rocks, and sunken dangers extend half a mile in a south-easterly direction.

The passages east and west of Passage island are deep, and 6 cables
wide. On the eastern shore of the eastern channel, several rocky islands
extend from one to 2 cablei from the shore, off the entrance to a bay.

ESTEVAN SOUND, between Estevan and Campania islands,
is about 15 miles long in a general W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and
from 2^ to 5 miies wide. At the south-cast entrance of the sound there
are several islets, rocks, and sunken rocks, nearly in mid-channel. To a
stranger, therefore, Estevan sound cannot bo recommended.

If, however, circumstances should necessitate its being made use of,
a course should be steered to pass three-quarters of a mile northward of
South Watcher islet. Thence a general course of W.N.W., cautiously, for
15 miles, should take a vessel into Nepean sound, keeping nearer the south
shore of the channel, to avoid the dangerous ledges which extend to the
distance of one mile from the south side of Campania island.

CAMPANIA ISLAND is nearly 15 miles long in a W.N.W.
and E.S.E. direction, and from one mile to 4 miles broad. At one mile
from its eastern extreme the island has an elevation of 1,000 feet,
increasing westward, until it culminates in two bare mountains, with
dome-shaped summits, 2,000 feet high. These mountains are of granite
formation, and furnish an excellent landmark when seen from seaward.
From their summits, which are 4 and 6 miles respectively from the eastern
extreme of the island, the land slopes to the westward, the western end of
Campania island being, comparatively, low and wooded.

The northern shore of the island is bold, with a few rocky bays along it.
The north-east extreme terminates in a high, bold, white cliff.

The southern shore is low, wooded, and broken into bays and creeks,
fringed by islets, rocks awash at high water, and at low water, to the
distance of one mile.

I"-!

*"!• li.»i^

aup. XTi] ESTEVAN SOUND. — CAMPANIA ISLAND.

4.4.9

it.

The western shore is bold, and little broken. Marble rock, a small,
white rock, 6 i'eet above high water, lies half a mile from it.

South watcher, is a small wooded islet, 100 feet high, lying nearly
in mid-chaiinol at the eastern entrance of Estevan sound, 3^'^ miles S.W. ^ W.
from Eclipse island, and 3f\j miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from Breaker point.

The South watcher has ledges which uncover at low water, extending
from it north-west and south-east to the distance of half a mile.

North watcher islet, 60 feet high, is small, wooded, and conspicuous ;
it lies ly*5 miles W. ^ N. from South Watcher islet.

The North watcher has ledges which uncover, and sunken dangers sur-
rounding it to the distance of 8 cables.

Blinder rook, over which the L,ca breaks occasionally, lies one mile
S.W. by W. from the summit of South watcher islet, and a little more
than one mile S.E. from North watcher islet.

£stevan ledge, which uncovers at low water, is one cable in extent,
and lies 8 cables West from the summit of North Watcher islet.

Breaker point, the eastern extreme of Estevan island, is low and
wooded ; from this point the coast trends N.W. by N. for about 4 miles,
and is broken into bays and creeks, with several islets and rocks lying
close to the shore. Thence it trends W.N.W. for about 5 miles, at
which point lie two conspicuous smaU islets, one cable from the shore, and
then takes a W. ^ S. direction for about 6 miles, with a deep curve to the
southward, until terminating at the mouth of Otter passage.

Don ledge, which uncovers at low water, extends E.N.E. 6 cables
from Breaker point.

Breaker reef consists of 3 rocks awash, surrounded by sunken rocks
over which the sea nearly always breaks; the outer rock lies 2^ miles S.W.
from Breaker point, and nearly 1^ miles from the nearest part of Estevan
island.

Trap rocks, some of which are awash at high water, extend 8 cables
northward from the north-west extreme of Estevan island, and thence front
the western end of the island at the distance of 2 to 6 cables.

Guano rocks, on the north shore of Estevan sound, consist of a
cluster of 3 white rocks, lying one mile distant from the south side of
Campania island at 6 miles westward of Eclipse island. The highest rock
is 30 feet above high water, and the group is surrounded by rocks awash
and sunken rocks to the distance of from 5 to 7 cables.

Between Guano rocks and Eclipse island, ledges which uncover at low
water extend from 5 to 6 cables from the shore. i

JL 17498. p f

'""'"'^■w^ff*"

450

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [ciup. xii.

MErble rock, half u milo westward of tho west extreme of Campania
island, is a bare rock 6 feet above high water, Bmall, white, and conspicuous ;
it is nearly steep-to on all sides, and may bo approached to half a cable.

Soundings. — The depth of 40 fathoms was obtained iu Estovan
sound, at 2 cables from the dangers fronting tho shore of Campania island,
depths of 7 and 20 fathoms were found close alongside of the rocks.

NEPEAN SOUND, between Estevan sound and Principe channel,
is about 7 miles long and 4 miles wide.

Otter channel, between Pitt island and Campania island, connects
Nepean sound with Squally channel, and is about 3^ miles long, and fr m
3^ miles at its western, to one mile wide at its eastern end. There is no
known danger l)eyond one cable from the shore in Otter channel. The
water in Otter channel is deep, there being no bottom at 40 fathoms at
half a mile from the shore on both sides.

Steep point, the north-eastern entrance point of Otter channel,
terminates in a high, bold, white cliff.

OTTER PASSAGE leads south-westward from Nc .n sound,
between Estevan and Banks islands. This passage, though no. • 1^ miles
wide, is obstructed on its western shore by a group of islands, islets,
and rocks (Block islets), which contract the navigable channel to barely
4 cables wide in places. > .

This narrow channel is rendered more dangerous by the strong tides
experienced in it, the greater portion of the ebb stream finding its way out
of Nepean sound by Otter passage, at the rate of more than 6 knots an ..our
at springs, which meeting the ocean swell at the western entrance of Otter
passage, produces a most turbulent breaking sea, dangerous to small
vessels. ■■•'.•, '■: -J. •->:,•.,. /Si

In no case should Otter passage be attempted, except at slack water and
with local knowledge.

PRINCIPE CHANNEL, between Pitt and Banks islands, is
about 42 miles long in a general W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and from
2 to 7 miles wide. From its eastern entrance this channel takes a general
N.W. by W. ^ W. direction for 18 miles, then W. by N. for 10 miles, and
W. ^ N. for 14 miles to the entrance to Ogden channel. / ... "'■^■>

The south shore of the channel is bold, wiih mountains from 1,200 to
1,700 feet rising over it

The north shore is much broken into bays, especially about midway,
in two of which, ports Stephens and Canaveral, anchorage may be found.

The mountains on Pitt island, at about 3 miles from the shore, rise to
a height of 1,000 to 3,000 feet. ^ ,> , •?:>!

i^pvfl^vni iipmiV''

ciui. XII.] NEPEAN SOUND. — PRINCIPE CHANNEL.

451

Vnnt'ouvcr nays "The southern Hhore is nearly atruight and -.onipac

" without soiuulings ; tho northern shore \h much broken, bounded by nmny

*' rocks and ish;t9, and atlbrding Houudings ia several i)laco8. On the

" south-west side the acclivity is the greatcHtj but both sides of the channel

•' may be considered elevated land, and are entirely covered with pine trees,

" which seemed to be produced principally from a soil of decayed vegetables

" in the chasms of the rocks."*

Deer point, "t 4 miles westward of Block islets, is a small peninsula
on the south shore, which when first seen appears to be an islet.

Gale point J8 prominent, bold, and high, nnd lies 5 miles north-west
of Deer point. A remarkable bare mountain, 1,250 feet high, is situated
close to the shore at 4 miles westward from Gale point. Tho coast imme-
diately under this mountain is broken into several narrow creeks, Avith some
small rocky islets at their mouths. With the exception of these bays the
south shore of Principe channel is unbroken.

Despair point, at ll miles westward o: Gale point, is bold, and
nearly eteep-to.

Headwind point lies 5^ miles westward of Despair point, thence
the coast is bold and unbroken.

Deadman islet, « small wooded islet, lies close to the shore off the
north-west extreme of Bankg island, about 15 miles westward of Headwind
point.

End hill, an oval-shaped hill 450 feet high, lies close to the south shore
of Principe channel at 2 miles eastward of Deadman islet.

Wolf point, the south-eastern entrance point of Principe channel, and
the south point of Pitt island is high, bold, and conspicuous, with severail
small islets close-to.

Brodie rock, a dangerous sunken rock, lies one mile S.W. by
W. ^ W. from Wolf point. Between Brodie rock and the shore the gi-ound
is foui to 2 miles westward of Wolf point. A depth of 66 fathoms was
found at 2 cables south of Brodie rock.

PORT STEPHENS.t on the north shore, at about 8 miles within
the eastern end of Principe channel, is 4 cables wide at its entrance, and
extends in a N. by E. direction 6 cables, N.E. 6 cables, and thence in an
easterly direction for 8 cables, terminating in two bays, with a large stream
at the head of the southern bav.

* Vancouver's Voyages, Vol. ii., p. 322.

t See Admiralty plan :— Port Stephens, on sheet No. 2,189 ; scale, m = 3 • 26 inches

FF 2

452

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEK CHANNEL. [chap. xii.

f 1

Guide islet, a small bare islet, lies one mile eastward of the port,
with two small islets (the Sisters) lying nearly midway between it and port
Stephens. -

Directions. — Keep mid-way between the entrance points (Bluft' and
Centre points), and steer N. by E. for half a mile ; thence N.E. for half a
mile, keeping mid-channel. Haul gradually to the eastward as the harbour
opens out, and anchor in mid-channel in about 12 fathoms, with Bluff point
shut in with the south shore, the latter distant 2 cables.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port Stephens at Oh. 30m. ;
springs rise 18 feet.

Bluff point, 8 miles N.W. by W. | W. from Wolf point, forms the
western entrance point of port Stephens and terminates in a high white
cliff.

Oar point lies 6 milas W.N.W. from Bluff point, the coast between
those points being bold and unbroken. Immediately westward of Oar
point, the coart recedes northward, terminating in two narrow arms (Mink
Trap bay).

Canoe islet, a small bare islet, not unlike a canoe in appear-
ance, when first seen, lies off the mouth of Mink Trap bay, at one mile
N.W. by W. i W. from Oar point.

Green top islet, three-quarters of a mile N.W. by W. ^ W., from
Canoe islet, is small, with a patch of grass and shnib on its summit.

MINK TRAP BAY, situated on the north shore, about 8 miles
westward ot port Stephens, consists of two long narrow creeks, separated
by a peninsula; this bay has deep water in it, but it is useless as an
anchorage for other than small vessels and boats.

At the head of the easteiTi arm is an Indian village, to which a tribe of
the Kit kat lah Indians resort in summer for salmon fishing.

Anger island, on the north shore, 5 miles westward of Oar point, is
.libout 4 miles long and 2 miles broad, with shoals extending from its south
and east sides 5 to 7 cables. Near its western end the island reaches an
elevation of 730 feet.

Trade and Storm islands are clusters of islets which extend
from 5 cables to 1^ miles from the south and eastern shores of Anger
island.

Wheeler islet is a small wooded islet, distant 5 miles W. ■J N.
from Foul point, the western extreme of Anger island.

Cliff islets extend north-east of Wheeler islet to the entrance of
Petrel channel. These islets are bare n.ud reeky, with foul ground
between them and the shore of McCauley island. • "• • ' '• • ■-- '■

CHAP.xu.] PRINCIPE CHANNEL; PORTS STEPHENS

AND CANAVERAL.

453

McCauley island, on the north shore, is 17 miles long, 9 miles
broad, and wooded nearly throughout. The island near its centre rises lo
the height of 1,160 feet. Almost midway, on its south side, a bare hill
with a flat top, 400 feet high, Jies close to the shore.

PORT CANAVERAL,* near the south-east extreme of McCauley
island, about 21 miles westward of port Stephen, is an inlet trending to the
north-east for about three-quarters of a mile with an average breadth of
about 3 cables, and depths of 6 to 18 fathoms over it.

Dixon island, lies on the western side of the port, with several
islands and islets lying off its south and eastern sides to the distance of
2 cables.

SQUall point, the south-east entrance point of port Canaveral, is
the termination of the spur from Hat hill, and is bold and conspicuous.

Rod point, on the north shore, opposite Squall point, has a oliff' of
red-brown colour over it.

Alarm rock, with 8 and 10 fathoms close-to, is a dangerous sunken
rock lying nearly in mid-channel at the entrance to port Canaveral, at
1^ cables W.N.W. from Squall point, and 2^ cables from Red point.

Harbour bank, with 6 fathoms over it (probably less), lies IJ
cables north-eastward from Alarm rock, and midway between Squall and
Red points.

Clown rock, on the western shore, is the outer danger extending
south-east of Dixon island. This rock, which dries .3 feet, lies 2 J cables
S.E. by E. from Tonkin point, the south extreme of Dixon island, with
foul ground between it and the shore.

Stephen rock, 3 feet above high water, lies on the western shore at
1^ cables i'lom Dixon island. The outer portion of Stephen rock, which
uncovers at low water, lies 2 cables S.E. ^ E. from Dimple point, the
north-east extreme of Dixon island.

Directions. — Entering port Canaveral, Dimple point may be
steered for when in line with Stephen rock, bearing N.W. J N,, until
Busl^ islet (off south-west extreme of Dixon island) is just shut in with
Tonkin point bearing W.S.W. The latter mark kept on astern will lead
to the anchorage ground, when anchor in 14 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom,
at 1^ cables south-east of the north entrance point (Red point).

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Canaveral at
Oh. oO m. ; springs rise 18 feet.

• See Admiralty plan: — Port Caijaveral, on sheet No. 2,189 j scale, m = 3'25 inches.

4^54

LAEEDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xii.

Anchorage was obtained by Vancouver, on two occasions, on the
north shore, westward of port Canaveral, at 3 cables from the shore, in
34 and 35 fathoms, respectively. The exact positions are not recorded.

Bush and Dark islets are small, wooded islets, which lie close
to the south shore of McCauley island, off the entrance to port Canaveral,
at 2 miles westward of Wheeler islet. •. - •; - i

Petrel channel is an unexamined passage between Pitt and
McCauley islands; its southern entrance is about 3 miles wide, thence
the channel takes a north-west direction for nearly 8 miles, when it divides,
one passage going northward, the other southward of Lofty island, and
again joining at 2 miles eastward of Ogden channel.

Lofty island has not been surveyed in detail, but it is about 8 miles
long and 2| miles wide near its south-east end, gradually narrowing to the
north-westward ; near the south shore Noble mountain rises to a height of
2,874 feet.

Hankin ledges consist of rocks awash, and sunken dangers, which
extend nearly one mile from Hankin point (south-west extreme of McCauley
island).

Directions. — A mid-channel course should be kept when navigating
Principe channel, until nearing Auger island, when the south shore should
be closed to avoid the dangers which extend off that island. • '

Soundings. — The depths in Principe channel are from 66 fatlioins,
sand, to 140 fathoms, rock.

Tides. — The flood tirfe setting to the north-west, approaches principally
by Estevan sound, being joined in Nepean sound by the stream which
enters through Otter passage. At the western end of Principe channel
this stream is m^t by the flood which has passed up outside Banks island.
Tlie ebb stream runs out principally by the Otter passage. Both streams
attain a velocity of 3 knots an hour at springs. " ' '

> w

j(#

1 1 its. t. "'. '.. .

■<'■ I ,' ;, ". " «

4i55

CHAPTER XIII.

OUTER COAST. CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Variation in 1888.
Cape Calvert, 24° 50' E. | Ogden Channel, 26° 30' E.

CALVERT ISLAND,* the southern island at the entrance to
jb'itzhugh sound, is 13 miles long N.W. and S.E,, and 8 miles across at its
broadest part. The southern and western shores of Calvert island are but
little broken, comparatively low, and thickly wooded.

Sorrow island, situated at the pitch of cape Calvert, the south
extreme of Calvert island (see page 358), is conspicuous (and an excellent
thick-weather mark) from its cliffy formation, and by being covered with
stunted, weather-beaten trees.

Mark nipple, an isolated hill, 350 feet high, at the south-west extreme
of Calvert island, is a very useful landmark when approaching Fitzhugh
sound.

Landing, with fine weather and off-shore winds, may be effected in
Grief bay (north of Sorrow island) and in other bights westward to
Herbert point the S.W. extreme of the island, abc ut 8 miles distant.

■^ Hedley patch., with 9 fathoms on it, and probably shoaler, is of small
extent, and lies 3^ miles S.E. ^ E. from Blakeney island, and 5^ miles
W. i S. from south point of Sorrow island ; at nearly half a mile north-east
from it there is a depth of 19 fathoms.

Blakeney islet, 150 feet high, half a mile from the south-west
extreme of Calvert island, is small, wooded, and about half a mile long.

FitZ Roy reef, the most outlying danger off the western shore of
Calvert island, uncovers at low water, dries one foot, and is about half a
mile in extent in an east and west direction. Its outer or western edge
lies 1^ miles W. byN. from Blakeney island, and 1^ miles from the nearest
shore of riflivprt island.

Carrington reefs are a cluster of sunken rocks, the outer edge of
which lies half a mile from the western shore of Calvert island, at 1 J miles
N.N.W. I W. from Blakeney island.

* See Admiralty chart :— Cape Caution to port Simpson, No. 1 ,923 b ; soalc, r« -=• • 25
of an inch; also No. 1,923 a ; scale, m -> O'SS of an inch.

456

CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xm.

The coast of Calvert island, northward of the Carrington reefs, is foul to
the distance of 5 cables.

Ew&ksliua; is an unexamined channel lying between Calvert and
Hecate islands. At its western entrance this passage is half a mile wide^
and takes a north-easterly direction. (See page 361.) ' • '

EwaksllUa rock lies nearly in mid-channel, at the western-entrance
of Kwakshua channel. The sea only breaks at intervals over this dangerous
sunken rock.

Hecate reefs fringe the western shore of Hecate island to the
distance of 8 cables.

HAKAI CHANNEL between Hecate and Nalau islands, is about
7 miles long in a general N.E. ^ N. and S.W. ^ S. direction, and from one
to 14 miles wide. (See page 361.)

Sugar loaf hill, on the western side of Hecate island, is 500 feet
high.

Leading peak, about l^ miles southward of Sugar-loaf hill, is of
triangular shape, with a sharp, well defined summit.

South pointers are a cluster of bare black rocks, of small extent,
2 feet above high water, surrounded by sunken dangers to the distance of
2 cables; they lie on the south shore, at the western entrance of Hakai
channel, 1^ miles westward of the Starfish group.

North pointers are a cluster of bare rocks, of light colour, lying on
the north shore at the western entrance of Hakai channel. The western
or outer I'ock lies 2^ miles N.N.W. from South pointer rocks. ;>

Starfish group, wooded, from 70 to 1 50 feet high, lie on the south
shore, and extend about 1^ miles in a north-east and south-west direction.
The group consists of three principal islands, much broken into long, rocky,
narrow creeks with shores of white cliffs.

Starfish ledge, over which the sea usually breaks, lies 2 cables from
the north-west shore of Long island, the northernmost of the Starfish group.

Breaker group, situated on the north shore in the middle of Hakai
channel, is about one mile in extent, the larger islands being wooded, about
260 feet high, and the smaller bare. • • • - '.

Breaker ledge uncovers at half ebb, and lies half a mile south-east
from the centre island of the Breaker group.

East rock, situated on the south shore, oflf the entrance to Welcome
harbour, is awash at low water, and lies half a mile off shore, N. by E.
from the western entrance point, and half a mile N.W. by N. from the
eastern entrance point of that harbour. ,,. ,, ; i,,^

CHAP. XIU.]

WELCOME HARBOUR.

457

There are depths of 23 and 25 fathoms close to East rock, and 30 fathoms
between that rock and Port reef.

Port reof, awash at high water, lies 2 cables E. ^ S. from East rock.

Clearing marks. — Leading peak (nead of Welcome harbour) seen in
line with Bluff point (north side of Welcome harbour) bearing S. by E. | E.
will lead westward : and South pointers rocks bearing S.S.W. will lead
northward of these rocks.

Choked passage lies southward of the Starfish group; it is
obstructed by rocks awash, reefs, and sandbanks.

WELCOME HARBOUR,* situated on the south shore of Hakai
channel near its western end, is 3 cables wide at its entrance, and Ij^ miles
long in a S.S.E. direction. Though somewhat confined, it affords good
qhelter to small vessels, and within the harbour, on the north shore, there
is a sandy beach where a vessel might be beached. Strong westerly winds
send a swell into this harbour.

Fairway rock, with 24 feet water over it, lies nearly in mid-channel
at the entrance to Welcome harbour. There is a depth of 20 fathoms close
■westward, and of 9 fathoms close eastward of the rock.

Ijcading peak seen just northward of Bluff point bearing S. by E. | E.
will lead eastward ; and Sugar Loaf hill, seen in line with Leading island
(a small, round, wooded island within the harbour), will lead close westward
of Fairway rock.

Harbour ledge, situated one cable from the western shore of
Harbour island, is of small extent, and dries 3 feet at low water.

Codfish rock, with 12 feet water over it, lies 100 yards ottthe south
shore of Harbour island.

Wolf rock, awash at high water, lies close to the east shore, at
nearly 2 cables northward of Sandspit point.

Sandspit point has a sandspit extending one cable from it.

Directions. — Having passed not less than half a mile northward of
Starfish group, the leading mark before given for clearing East rock
should be brought on and steered for. Especial care will be necessary if
the flood stream be making.

Having cleared East rock, pass east or west of Fairway rockf as
requisite, and anchor In 7 to 9 fathoms in mid-channel between Leading
island and Wolf rock, with the former bearing W.N.W. distant one cable.

♦ See plan :— Welcome harbour, on Admiralty chart No. 1,462 ; scale, m = 4 -0 inches,
f Fairway rock is marked by kelp during the summer montht.

-158

CAPE CALVEET TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [ohap. xin.

Exposed bay situated just eastward of Welcome harbour, has a
dangerous cluster of sunken rocks near the middle of the bay.

Soundings. — At 2 miles south-' /est of North Pointer rocks there is
a depth of 65 fathoms, sand. Approaching Hakai channel from that position
the water will shoal to 40 fathoms, but will deepen to over 100 fathoms
when within the channel eastward of a line joining North and South
Pointers rocks. There are depths of 125 and 104 fathoms eastward of that
line.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Welcome harbour at
12h. Om. ; springs rise from 15 to 16 feet, neaps 12 to 13 feet.

The flood sets to the north-eastward. Both streams attain a velocity of
4 knots an hour at springs. • . , \ .-.

Directions. — Hakai channel is not recommended to a stranger. If
using it, steer midway between North and South Pointers rocks, and
thence a mid-channel course (N.E. \ N.) towards a conspicuous mountain
on the eastern shore of Fitzhugh sound, which will lead through into that
sound.

N^LAU PASSAGE between the Nalau group and Hunter island,
is obstructed by islands, islets, rocks awash, and sunken dangers, and is
useless for navigation. (*See page 362.) ■ ?! ? f^Vi -/■^i'-' :

White Cliff island, situated 4 miles W. by N. ^ N., from the western
or outer North Pointer rock, is of small extent, bare, and 250 feet in
height; it shores consisting of high white cliffs, render it conspicuous
when seen from the south and west.

A reef, on which the sea breaks at low-water, lies midway between White
ClifE island and the North pointers. . • -•

QUEEN'S SOUND, situated between Goose and Hunter islands, is
about 12 miles long in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and fi'om 4 to 8
miles wide. At its northern end is a mass of islands and islets, which
render that portion of the sound intricate and dangerous.

Soundings. — At the entrance to Queen's sound there are depths of
73 and 76 fathoms, sandy bottom ; and within the sound no bottom could
be found at 40 fathoms at one mile from the shore.

Spider island, 250 feet high, situated on the eastern shore, at the
entrance to Queen's sound, 3 miles northward of White Cliff island, is
3^ miles long, in aN.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and IJ miles broad; it is
connected with Hunter island by a ledge of rocks awash, through which
there are boat passages, and its north-west extreme terminates in high,
bold, white cliffs. The shores of Spider island are broken into numerous
narrow rocky creeks.

CHAP, xui.] queen's sound. — PLUMPER AND

HECATE CHANNELS.

469

Superstition point on the eastern shore of Queen's sound, 2 miles
northward of Spider island, is the south-west extreme of a small island, which
is connected with Hunter island by a narrow neck, awash at high water, j

Superstition ledge consists of high rocks, connected by rocks awash
and sunken dangers, the outer extreme of which lies S.W., distant 1^ miles
from Superstition point. Strong tide races will be met with in the vicinity
of this ledge, and the sea breaks upon it heavily at times.

Purple bluff, the south-west extreme of a group of islands, on the
eastern shore of Queen's sound, at the entrance to Plumper channel,
terminates in high, bold, basaltic cliffs of a pui-ple tint. The group consists
of numerous islands, islets (wooded and bare), rocks awash, and sunken
rocks, extending over a space of nearly 5 miles.

Purple bluff lies 5 miles north-west of Spider island, and 5 miles from
the Goose island group.

GOOSE ISLANDS, on the western shore of Queen's sound,
consist of four principal islands, connected at low water, the lai'gest and
northernmost being about 200 feet high, and wooded; its uorth-east
extreme terminates in conspicuous, high, white cliffs. , .;

Yellocki, an Indian fishing village, is situated on the eastern side of
the westernmost Goose island.

Gosling rocks consist of numerous rocks, awash at high water, and
sunken dangers, the outer extreme of which lies nearly 4 miles S.S.E. from
the southernmost Goose island.

West rock, awash at high water, lies one mile south-west of the
westernmost Goose island.

PLUMPER CHANNEL, between Hunter and Campbell islands
leads from Queen's sound into Lama passage ; its southern end is obstructed
by numerous islets and rocks, and no specific directions can be given for
entering it.

As a general guide, however, if the conspicuous white cliff on the north-
easternmost Goose island be kept bearing S.W. astern, it will lead towards
the entrance to Safe passage.

HECATE CHANNEL, between Campbell island and the
Bardswell group, leads from Queen's sound into Seaforth channel, and
is also obstructed at its southern end by numerous islets and rocks. The
two principal passages are Codfish passage and Brown narrows; no
directions, however, can be given for entering them, and the remarks
concerning Plumper channel apply also to Hecate channel.

BROKEN GROUP (Qual a qute), situated 2 miles northward
of the Goose idand group, extend 2 miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction

460

CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xm.

and consist of several islets and rocks, connected throughout by ledges
which uncover at low water.

Fingal island is a small, wooded island, lying one mile W. by N. from
the northern'-, oat island of the Broken group.

Fingal ledges extend one mile in a southerly direction from Fingal
island, and consist of rocks awash, and ledges which uncover at low
water.

Peveril rock lies l ^ miles N.N.E. from the northernmost Goose
island, and is awash at high water.

Middle rock, 6 feet high, lies 3 miles N.W. by W. ^ W from the
north-west extreme of North Goose island, and 2h miles W. by S. from the
pouth island of the Breaker group. There is a depth of 29 fathoms, rock,
at half a mile southwftrd of the rock. ■ , «;

North, breaker, a dangerous sunken rock, lies one mile N.N.W.
fi'ora Middle rock. There is a depth of 27 fathoms, rock, at one mile
westward of the North breaker.

Limit island is a small wooded island, with foul ground extending
Half a mile south-west from it.

Rempstone rocks consist of two patches awash at high water, one
mile apart, lying E. by S. and W. by N. from each other. The western
or outer rock lies 1y\ miles S.S.E. ^ E. from cape Swain.

BARDSWELL GROUP, forming the eastern side of Milbank
sound, consist of low, wooded islands, extending over a space of 7 miles
square, the largest of which, DufPerin island, forms the west shore of
Hecate channel. Among the group are several boat channels, communi-
cating between Milbank sound, and Seaforth and Hecate channels. i

ARISTAZABLE ISLAND, situated on the western shore of
Laredo sound, is about 26 miles long in a N.W and S.E. direction, and is
from one to 10 miles broad, and wooded. At about 8 miles from its south-
east extreme there is a conspicuous saddle-shaped hill 640 feet high.
Near the western end of the island, over the north shore, a bare ridge
of hills, with four conspicuous peaks, rises to the height of 950 feet.

Over the south extreme of the island there are some bare hills 350 feet
high, and at the extreme western end of the island there is a remarkable
boulder or nob lying on the summit of a bare hill. The southern shores are
broken into bays and creeks, obstructed by islets and sunken rocks ; and
there are several off-lying groups of islands.

Entrance island, situated l^ miles southward of the south-east
extreme of Aristazable island, and 16 miles W. by N. f N., from Outer island
(entrance to Milbank sound), has a small islet lying close south of it, and

oiAP. xiii] AEISTAZABLE ISLAND. — GANDER ISLANDS. 461

is the outer island of a group which extendd from the south-east point
of Aristazable island. The larger islets of the group are wooded, the
smaller bare.

White rock, lOO feet high, bare and conspicuous, situated 5 miles
N.W. by W. I W. from Entrance island, is the outer rock of a group
extending 2 miles from the shore of Aristazable island.

Sentinel island, 2oO feet high, small, round, wooded, and con-
spicuous, lies off the south point of Aristazable island, at 1^ miles from the
shore, at 4 miles W. ^ N. from White rock. Between Sentinel island and
the nearest island of the group east of it, distant 5 cables, there is no bottom
at a depth of 40 fathoms.

Several rocks awash and sunken rocks lie northward of Sentinel island,
fringing the south shore of Aristazable island.

The two most outlying rocks, which are from one to 2 feet above high
water, lie respectively one mile W. by N. and 4^ miles W.N.W. from
Sentinel island.

GANDER ISLANDS (Cha Che kwas) are a group of islands,
islets, and rocks, extending over a space 11 miles long in a N.N.W. and
S.S.E. direction, and 4 miles broad, at about 6 miles from the south shore
of Aristazable island. The larger islands of the group are wooded, the
smaller ones bare, and the tops of the trees are from 70 to 150 feet above
high water.

Large Gander island, the northernmost and largest of the group,
is about 2 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and half a mile
broad.

Middle Gander islands are two small, wooded islands, lying close
together, the northern island 5 miles S.S.E. from the south extreme
of the Large Gander island. A bare rock, with sunken rocks surrounding
it, lies N.W. by N. distant 2 miles from the Middle Gander islands.

South Gander island lies one mile S.S.E. from the Middle
Gander islands, is 4^ cables long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction,
is half a cable broad, 70 feet high, and wooded.

South-east Gander islands are two small wooded islands
100 feet high, lying close together, 3 miles S.E. by E. from South Gander
island. Two small, bare, rocky islets lie 1^ miles north-west of South-
east Gander islands.

Goose ledge, which uncovers at low water, lies 3 miles
S. by W. ^ W. from South-east Gander islands, and 3 miles S.F. ^ E. from
South Gander island.

4iB2

I CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xiu.

SparrOWhawk breakers* lie, respectively, 4 and 6^ miles S. by E.
from South-east Gauder islands. Tliere is a depth of 21 fathoms between
these dangers.

Tide rip islands consist of two groups lying N.N.W. and S.S.E.
distant 2 miles from each other ; the southern group lying 2 miles north
of (he Gander group. These islands, which extend over a space of about
12 miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, are wooded, and about 200
feet high ; the northern and largest island terminating at its north-west
extreme, in high, white conspicuous cliffs, 2^ miles to the westward of
Devils point, the north-west point of Aristazable island.

Tides. — The flood sets to the northward, both flood and ebb streams
attaining at springs, among these islands, a rate of 4 knots an hour. ,,

Soundings. — Westward of Laredo sound, no soundings have been
taken beyond the distance of one mile from the south shore of Aristazable
island. The depths obtained at that distance were 23 fathoms, and no
bottom at 40 fathoms.

Caution. — As an extended examination has not been made of the
Gander and Tide rip groups and their vicinity, and the tides being
strong, the channels between them, though deep, should not be attemptefl
by a stranger. When approaching these groups of islands, the lead and
look-out sliould be attended to. ■ -

ESTEVAN ISLAND, situated 6 miles westward of the Tide rip
group, is about 14 miles long in a general W. by N. and E. by S. direction,
and from 2 to 5 miles broad ; the southern shores being comparatively
low, wooded, and much broken into bays and creeks. Near the centre, on
the north bhore, the land attains an elevation of 1,500 to 1,700 feet,
forming a saddle-shaped mountain with the highest part to the westward.

Haycock island, small, bare, and 60 feet high, lies 4^ miles
S.E. ^ E. from Curtis point, and 7 miles W. by S. | S. from Breaker
point, the eastern extreme of Bstevan island. {See page 449.)

Haycock rocks are three rocks awash, which lie respectively
W. by S., S. by E., and N. by E. distant one mile from Haycock island.

The passage between Haycock island and Estevan island should not be
attempted.

Curtis point, on the south shore of Estevan island, 4^ miles
N.W. ^W. from the summit of Haycock island, is low and wooded, with some
rocky islets close to.

* H.M.S. Sparrowhawk passed between and reported these breakers in 1869.

cnAP.xin.] ESTEVAN ISLAND. — BANKS ISLAND. 463

Curtis rock, a dangerous sunken rock, over which tlie sea breaks
occasionally, lies one mile S.S.W. from Curtis point.

Cox point, the west extreme of Estevan island, liea 5 miles N.W. ^ W.
from Curtis point. With the exception of a small bay at one mile westward
of the latter point, the shore between Curtis and Cox points is but little
broken.

Marohant rock, over which the sea breaks at low water, lies 2 miles
South from Cox point, and 1| miles from the nearest shore of EsteTHD
island. ' .

Cone islet, small, wooded, 250 feet high, and conical, is the southern-
most of the Block islets, and lies at the southern entrance of Otter passage,
and on the west side of that channel, at 2 miles from the shore of Banks
island.

Breaker islets, which lie off the eastern end of Banks island, at one
mile westward of Cone islet, consist of a group of islets and rocks awash,
the highest islet being about 70 feet high and wooded.

BANKS ISLAND, the south extreme of which lies 2 miles west-
ward of Estevan island, is about 41 miles long, in a general W. by N. and
E. by S. direction, and from 5 to 10 miles broad. The southern shore is
wooded and comparatively low, seldom exceeding 150 feet in height, and
is broken into bays and creeks, rendered .unless as anchorages by numerous
rocks awash, and sunken dangers.

The northern shore is high and bold, with a mountain range of 1,000
to 1,760 feet over it, the latter elevation being attained near the ;iorthern
shore, or about midway between the east and west extremes of tho island.
At about 10 miles from the western end of Banks island the land becomes
low and flat, and is intersected by many creeks.

Calamity bay, at the eastern extreme of Banks island, is 3 milei? wide
at iis entrance, and extends 3 miles in a north-westerly direction ; it coQsists
of iron-bound shores, with rocky islets and sunken dangers occupyinj; the
bay nearly throughout. . ^, fS-Kv, 'ii: (r.. ,■..,:; v;, ^;i" :. .v

Terror point, the south-east extreme of Banks island, is high and
bold, 200 feet above high water. Prom its outer extreme this point slopes
inland, and when first seen appears as an island.

Terror rooks consist of rocks awash and sunken rocks, over which
the sea breaks heavily, extending one mile south-eastward from Terror

point. "" -;■ /'-t'P-;^ .•••■' "'■■;•; U „ i ■.■(,•■1,,,,,

ft Shrub islet, of small extent, 80 feet high, with a conspicuous patch of
bush upon its summit, lies 3 miles S.W. J^ W. from Terror point, and has
sunken rocks surrounding it to the distance of 3 cables.

464

CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xiir.

Grief point, situated N.W. by W. ^ W., 8 milos from Tenor point,
is low and wooded. A ledge, consisting of rocks nwnsli and sunken
dangers, extends 1^ miles south-west from Grief point.

The coast between Terror and Grief points has foul ground extenditig
off it to the distance of one mile.

Foul bay, between Grief and Wreck points, is 5 miles wide, and
2 miles deep ; it is, however, useless as an anchorage, being obstructed by
islets, rocks, and sunken dangers.

Wreck point, a conspicuous projection, is low ond wooded, lying
5 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Grief point.

Junk ledge, consisting of rocks awash, and ledges which uncover
at low water, extends nearly 2 miles south-east from Wreck point. ,

North Danger rocks, 7 miles southward of Wreck point, are a
dangerous cluster of five bare rocks of small extent, 10 feet above high
water, and surrounded by rocks awash and sunken rocks to the distance of
half a mile.

The centre of the cluster lies 18 miles S.E. by £. ^ E. from the summit
of Bonila island. Vessels should keep southward of the line joining Shrub
islet and North Danger rocks, and not pass between those dangers and
Banks island.

Kelp point lies 8 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Wreck point.

Kelp ledge extends 1^ miles south-eastward from Kelp point.
Between Wreck and Kelp points the shore of Banks islond is foul to the
distance of one mile.

Halibut rocks consist of two dangerous clusters (covered at high
water) about half a mile each in extent, lying W.N.W. and E.S.E., distant
1 ^ miles from each other. The centre of the eastern cluster lies 8 miles
E. by S. I S. from the summit of Bonila island, and 4| miles S.E. by S.
from Cliff point.

Cliff point, 6 miles W. f f'. Irom Kelp point, terminates in high,
bold, white clifis. Three smHil rocky islets lie near the shore close
eastward of the point.

SOUtb. rocks, lying to the southward of Bonila island, consist of two
clusters of rocks awash at high water, of small extent, lying S.S.E. and
N.N.W., distant one mile from each other. The south or outer group,
over which the sea usually breaks heavily, lies 3^ miles S.S.E. from the
summit of Bonila island.

High-water rocks, lying nearly midway between Bonila island and
Cliff point, consist of six roeks, awash at high water, about 2 cables in
extent, at 2^ miles E. ^ S. from the summit of Bonila island. . '; '.' f '

OJIAP. XIII.]

BONLLA ISLAND.

465

BONILA ISLANU, situated 9 miles S.S.E. from the nortli-wc-t
point of Banks isliunl, auii 1 miks IVom the Houth shore of the island, forms
an excellent landmark. The island is about 2 miles long, in an east and west
direction, and one mile broad, having on its ea8ten\ shore two small bays,
with some rocky islets lyinjj oft' them at 2 ca'ik-s from tho shoro. Near
the centre the island reaches an elevation ol 550 feet, the summit being
dome-shaped, falling almost perpendicularly on its north and south sides,
but sloping gradually to the westward. During the summer months, tho
sides of fioniln peak are clothed with purple-tinted heather.

The summit of Bonila island is situated in latitude 53° 28' 40" N.,
longitude 130° 35' 15" \V.

Lauding may be effected at the head r«f the southern small bay on tho
eastern side of Bonila island.

North-west rocks are a cluster, half a mile in extent, 1) ing 2 miles
N.W. by W. from the summit of Bonila island; tho highest rock is 3 feet
above high water.

North rocks, P cluster, about half a mile in extent, and awash ut
high water, lie 1^ miles E.N.E. from the centre of Nortli-west rocks, and
2 miles N.N.W. from the summit of Bonila island.

Middle rocks, two clusters, awash at low water, lie respectively
1 J miles W.N.W. aud 2 miles N.N.E. from the summit of Bonila island.

White rocks lie close to tho shore at the western extreme of Banks
island : the two largest rocks are about 30 feet above high water, bare and
conspicuous, with several smaller rocks suiTOunding them, and they form
an excellent landmark when making Ogden channel from Hecate strait.

The coast between White rocks and Cliff point, and between those
rocks and Deadmau islet, is much broken, with several creeks running
inland.

Anchorage for small craft in fine weather is stated to be obtainable
close northward of White rocks at the mouth of a creek.*

Supplies. — Game abounds on all tho off-lying islands. Notwithstand-
ing the presence of wolves, deer are in great numbers, especially on the
southern shores, which appear to be their favourite resort. Water is
plentiful at all seasons, the source apparently being springs. Trout may
be orocured in the streams.

Berries, especially the whortleberry, cranberry, and wild raspberry, were
found in abundance during July and August (1869).

Cedar and pitch pine are the principal woods met with.

* There is also anchorage reported to exist generally off the ncrth- west coast of Banks
island.— Commander G. E. Nicolls, R.N., H.M.S. Cormorant, 1887.

A 17498. OG

4:66

CAPE CALVEET TO OGDEN CHANNEL. ICcdap, xiii.

Soundings. — On the seaboard, between Calvert island and MUbank
sound, at the distance of 4 to 5 miles from the shore, the depths are from
53 to over 100 fathoms.

At a distance of 5 miles .westward from Blakeney island there ip a depth
of 64 fathoms, reddish sand, deepening to 76 and 89 fathoms, fine brown
sand, to abreast Hakai channel.

At 2 miles southward from White Cliflf island, there is depth of 70
fathoms, sand. Proceeding westward from that position across the mouth
of Queen's sound, the depths are from 70 to 76 fathoms, sand ; there being
a depth of 72 fathoms, mud and sand, at 7 miles southward of the Goose
island group. From the latter position, proceediLg in a north-westerly
direction, passing 5 miles westward of the Goose island group, the water
deepens to 78 and 80 fathoms, mud and sand, with occasionally sheila and
stones.

With cape Swain bearing N.N.E., distant 4 miles, the water deepens
quickly to 105 and 109 fathoms, reck, off the entrance to Milbank sound. ,

Browning entrance 's the approach common to the south end of
Ogden channel and the west end of Principe channel. It is included
between the south side of Goschen island and the north-west extreme of
Banks island, and between cape George and White rocks is 14 miles wide.

OGDEN CHANNEL,* situated between Pitt and Porcher islands,
is about 16 miles long, and from 4 cables to 1^ miles wide, and affords the
shortest means of communication between Queen Charlotte islands
(Skidegate) and the inner waters. At its southern end, Ogden channel is
divided by Spicer island into two passages (Schocjner and Beaver
passages) ; and at one mile northward of Spicer island, the channel is
obstructed by a group of islands (Channel islands) which reduce the
navigable channel to 4 cables wide.

The water, however, in the Ogden channel is deep ; and the dangers,
with one exception, are visible except a^ high water. ; ' .-

Landmarks. — On Dolphin island a mountain with an irregular
broken summit rises to the height of 1,400 feet. South-east of that
mountain, and close to the shore, is False cone hill, — a hill with a conical
summit. Off the south shore of Dolphin island in the viciniiy of False
cone hill, are two small islets, the western of which lies close to ch i shore
and is bare; Sentinel island, the eastern islet, lies about one mile distar.i;
from the shore, is wooded and about 100 feet high.

On the eastern side of Dolphin island, close to the shore, Pussage cone,
a hill with a conical summit, rises to the height of 454 feet, and is a useful
mark for indicating Schooner passage. On the north-west side of Spicer
island a saddle-shaped hill rises to the height of 300 feet. ' . '

♦ See Admiralty chart:— -Ogden channel and adjacent anchorages, No. 1,901 ; scale,
m B 1 inch.

CHAP. XIll.]

OGDEN CHANNEL.

467

Northward of the Channel group of islands, the land becomes higher.

On the eastern shore, close northward of Alpha bay, Anchor mountain,
a conical mountain, rises to the height of 1,931 feet. At one mile south
of Alpha bay, there is a remarkable white patch on the rocky eastern
shore.

On the western shore, abreast of Alpha bay, an extensive valley extends
inland. At 3 miles northward of the valley is a mountain 1,645 feet
high, on the sides of which are several landslips. .-■.<. .; .r r/ t,' .,.r.

Peninsula point, the north-west entrance point of Ogden channel,
is prominent, with a hill near its eastei.i extreme. Northward of the
point, at the mouth of the river Oona, is Oona bay, about half a mile wide,
and one mile deep in a westerly direction.*

There is said to be anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms water on the north bide
of Peninsula point, near the mouth of the river Oona.

Long island consists of two low wooded islets, lying close together
at 1^ miles southward of Spicer island.

Channel island is a small wooded islet, lying nearly midway between
Long and Spicer islands.

SFICER ISLAND, situated between McCauley and »olphin
islands, is of ti'iangular shape, the base being to the north, and 2| miles
long. The island near its centre attains an elevation of 827 feet. On
its south-east side two smaU narrow bays indent the shore in a north-
westerly direction ; and off its south-west side, Rt half a mile from
the shore, are Christie islands, a cluster of islets and rocks, some wooded
and others bare.

Channel group lies on the western shore, at one mile northward
of Spicfei.' island. The large islands are wooded, and the eastern islet of
the group is small, bare, and conspicuous. Half-a-mile northward of the
Channel group are some small islets, one bare (White rock), and another
covered with vegetation (False grassy islet).

South Twin islet is a small wooded islet on the eastern shore,
half a mile from the eastern islet of the Channel group and one mile
northward of Spicer island. This islet, and the eastern bare islet of
the Channel group, indicate the navigable channel, which lies between
them.

♦ In this vicinity the surface water changeB to dirty white, apparently coming from
the river Skeena through port Essington, and probably derived from glaciers at the
head uraters.

GO 2

488

CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [chap. xiii.

North Twin islet resembles South Twin islet from which it lies
iV.N.W. distant half a mile. The tops of the trees on North Twin islet
are about 130 feet high. Several small islets lie between the North and
South Twnns and McCauley island.

BEAVER PASSAGE,* between McCauley pnd Spicer islands, is
the wider and better of the two passages leading into Ogden channel.

At its western entrance Beaver passage is about half a mile wide, and
tikes a N.N.E. | E dir(!Ction for about 4^ miles, thence turning sharply to
the N.W. by W., to^^ards the Channel group, for 2^ miles.

North, rock is a^^vays visible, and lies nearly in mid-channel at
the southern entrance of Beaver passage, half a mile south-east from Long
island.

Connis rocks lie on the western shore (marked by kelp in the
season) 3 cables from the north-east extreme of Spicer island. The ci t r
of these rocks only covers at high water.

On the eastern shore, abreast Connis rocks, is a small bare islet oflf
a sandy bay.

Soundings. — There is a depth of 42 fathoms, rock and shell, at the
western entrance of Beaver passage, and no bottom at 20 fathoms within
the channel.

Directions. — Having passed through in mid-channel between Long
island and North rock, steer N.N.E. | E. for about 4J^ miles ; thence
N.W. by W. for about 1^ miles, and pass midway between South Twin
islet and the Eastern (bare) islet of the Channel group ; taking care not to
shut in the west point of Channel island, with the south-east extreme of
Spicer island, until the Bare islet (channel group) bears N.W. by W. to
clear Connis rock. The east side of Long island touching the west side of
Channel island bearing S.S.W. | W. also leads eastward of Connis rock.

Northward of the Channel group Ogden channel widens to nearly
2 miles. The shore on both sides has no known danger beyond 2 cables
from it.

SCHOONER PASSAGE, between Spicer and Dolphin islands,
is barely 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and is about 3 miles long in a
general north and south direction, with dopkus of 20 fathoms, to no
bottom at 33 fathoms.

• H.M.S. Scout, when proceeding through Ogden channel anchored off the north
pide of Dolphin island, abreast Kit kat lah village (in latitude 53° 48' N., longitude
130*" 26' 30" W.),in II fathoms, mud, with Village point bearing East ; and a large rock
16 feet high bearing South. There ic deep water half a mile north of Fophir Island,
and the village is nnmistakeable.— Navigating Lieutenant K. S. r'a;>r, R.H., 1872.

CHAP. 3UII.] OGDEN CHANNEL. — BEAVER PASSAGE; 469

ALPHA BAY.

Boys rock, a dangerous sunken rock, lies at the southern end of
Schooner passage, 2 cables from the south-east extreme of Dolphin island.
There is a depth of 49 fathoms, rock, at 2 cables south of Boys
rock.

Sentinel island bearing W. by S. will lead southward ; and Passage cone
hill bearing N. by W. will lead eastward of Boys rock.

Directions. — Having brought the clearing marks on for Boys rock,
pass one cable westward of the two small rocky islets which lie half a mile
N.N.E. of that rock. Thence mid-channel should be kept, and when
abreast the north end of Spicer island, steer to pass midway between that
island and the south islet of the Channel group. Pass eastward of the
latter at a distance of 2 cables, and proceed as before directed for Beaver
passage.

Tides. — The flood stream sets to northward, and near the north end of
Ogden channel divides, one part turning to the eastward into Grenville
channel, the other continuing northward towards Skeena river. The
ebb 8trea:n from Grenville channel, Chatham sounds and Skeena river,
unite off the north ^nd of Ogden channel, and pass out by it. The muddy
water of Skeena river is usually clearly defined against the blue water of
Ogden channel.

Both flood and ebb streams, in the narrow portions of Ogden channel,
attain a velocity of 4 knots an hour at springs,

An unexplored canoe passage lies between Goschen and Porcher islimds ;
it is about 15 miles long, and leads from Ogden channel into Edye passage.

ALPHA BAY,* situated on the eastern shore, 4 miles within the
north entrance of Ogden channel, faces the west, and is nearly one mile
wide, but only 3 cables deep. Near its northern end a deep valley extends
inland, and though it flows a fine trout stream. From the south entrance
point of this stream a sandspit extends 2 cables towards the north point of
Alpha bay.

AncIlOrage may he obtained in 10 and 11 fathoms, at 1^ cables from
the nearest shore (Fich point), with the south entrance point of the trout
stream bearing N.E. distant 2^ cables, and Anchor mountain over the
north shore of the bay N.E. | N, ; in this position the point on the western
shore under Bareside mountain should be seen in line with north point of
Alpha bay, bearing N. by W. J W.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Alpha bay at noon ;
springs rise 18 to 19 feet.

* ^ee Admiralty plan :— Alpha bay, oa Admiralty chart, No. 1,901 ; scale, m=S-0
inches.

f i>- ■

Ji.i/J .1

470

YiAifO y.iMiw;

.iJiJ, .i/t"

CHAPTER XIV.

PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS AND PORTLAND

CANAL. >

Variation, 28° East in 1888.

PORTLAJ NLET.*— This arm of the sea extends from the

north-east part oj batham sound in a N. by E. ^ E. direction for
10 niiled, thence N. by E. for 10 miles where it divides; one arm
continuing northward to the head of Observatory inlet; and tlie other
taking a north-westerly and northerly direction to the head of Portland
canal. At its southern entrance, between Wales and Maskelyne points, the
inlet is about 3 railea wide, and its shores are comparatively free from
danger, beyond the distance of 2 cables.f • ;

LandmErkS, — The shores of Portland inlet are high and bold,
especially the eastern. Needle peak, on the south-east sid^ of Nasoga
gulf, is a remarkable mountain terminating in a sharp snow-clad pinnacle,
5,000 feet high. Northward of Nasoga gulf, the shores of Mylor
peninsula are high, bold, and precipitous, rising almost perpendicularly
from the sea to the height of 3,000 feet. On the western shore, Entry
peak on Wales island has been already described. (See page 439.) The
mountains on Pearse island lie in ridgea nearly parallel to the shoi'e, and
the land is lower than on the eastern shore of the inlet. Northward of
Lizard point the western shore becomes low and wooded, flanked by
mountains 1,900 to 2,200 feet in height.

York island, half a mile N.E. from the north extreme of Wales
island, lies nearly in mid-channel, between that island and Pearse island ;
it is small, wooded, and 100 feet high. ' ., .^^ . ... .._ ,,•

Abreast York island, a narrow channel leads westward communicating
wi>h Pearse channel and Portland canal, but it is obstructed by several
islands and islets, which render the passage intricate.

ComptOn island, at the north entrance of Work channel, is of
triangular shape, with a base 2 miles long to the southward, the northern

* See Admiralty chart;— Port Simpson to Cross sound, No. 2,431 ; scale, m » 0* 15 of
an inch,
t For climate and winds, see pp. 5, 9. " ~~

CHAP. XIV.]

LANT)MA.EKS. — SOMERVILLE ISLAND.

471

extreme of the island terminating in a long, low point. There is a boat
passage into Work channel eastward of Compton island. <^i : '&0 '"

Emma passage, northward of Compton island, is half a mile wide,
and takes an E.S.E. direction for 3 miles, thence N.N.E. 3 miles, and
terminating in a sandy bay. The depths throughout the latter arm are
from 23 to 36 fathoms.

Union bay, at the head of the south-east urm, affords anchorage for
small vessels in 20 fathoms, at one cable from either shore. ... , ,

SOMERVILLE ISLAND, 2,000 feet high, on the eastern side
of the inlet, is 8^ miles long, in a N. by E. and S, by W. direction, and
3 miles broad. The shores of this island are wooded, and bold, the land on
its western side rising almost perpendicularly from the sea. Tho island is
but little broken, except on its north side, where there is a bay, with deep
water in it, half a mile wide, and one mile in extent, in a southerly
direction.

Elliott point, the south extreme of Somerville island, lies 4 miles
N. by E. from Maskelyne point, and 3^^ miles E. by N. ^ N. from Wales
point.

Truro island, 2 cables from the south-west side of Somerville island,
is about 11 miles long, in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and nearly
half a mile broad. The island is wooded, with bold shores, and culminates
in two hills 800 feet high.

Anchorage was found by Vancouver off a small bay on the west
side of Truro island, in ** 35 fathoms, soft bottom,"

Nob islet is a small, round, wooded islet, 30 feet high, lying close to
the western shore of Somerville island, distant 8 cables from the north
extreme of Truro island. There is a remarkable white cliff just southward
of Nob islet.

Start poiDt, 'the north extreme of Somei-ville island, lies abreast
Lizard point, 2| miles from it j it is high, and bold, with a deep bay close
eastward of it. i

Cliff point, 7 miles N. J E., from Wales point, terminates in high
cliffs. Immediately south of the point is a narrow creek, which extends
some distance inland in a north-west direction. , -

Lizard point is «. prominent point on the western shore, 3 miles
N.N.E. from Cliff point. There are sandy bays close north and south of
this point, extending back a considerable distance, giving to Lizard point
the shape of a peninsula, and when first seen from the westward, it appears
to be an island. At 2^ miles northward of Lizard point there are some
conspicuous red-brown earthy cliffs.

472 PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS,

AND PORTLAND CANAL.

[onAF. xvr.

Plat point lies 5^ miles N. | E. from Lizard point. The shore
between these points is wooded and comparatively low, and a similar
conformation exists 1^ miles northward of Flat point.

Portland point, about 18 miles within the inlet, lies 3 miles North
from Flat point. This point, ^vhich forms the turning point into the south-
east arm of Portland canal, is high, bold, and nearly steep-to.

Ramsden point, which divides Observatory inlet from Portland
canal, lies 2^ miles N.N.E. from Portland point.

A dangerous cluster of rocks (awash and sunken) extend 4 cables
south-east from Eamsden point, with depths of 120 and 126 fathoms, mud,
at 4 cables from the north-east and south-east sides.

Steamer passage, eastward of Somerville island, has an average
width of half a mile. From its south entrance it takes a N.E. direction
for 5^ miles, with depths of 23 and 29 fathoms water throughout ; thence
N. by W. for 5 miles, the water deepening to no bottom at 39 fathoms.

Khutzeymateen inlet is an unexamined arm, 5 miles within
Steamer passage. It is half a mile wide at its entrance, and takes an
E.N.E. direction.

QuinamaSS bay, on the eastern side of Steamer passage, abreast
the north end of Somerville island, is half a mile wide at its entrance, and
takes an easterly direction. At low "water it is almost completely filled
by a sand-flat, rendering the bay useless as an anchorage.

NaSOga gulf, eastward of Mylor peninsula, extends in a north-
easterly direction for 5 miles, is one mile wide, and tenniuntes in com-
paratively high land. There is no bottom at 39 fathoms in this gulf, except
near the head.

Anchorage will be found, near the head of Nasoga gulf, in 10 to 12
fathoms, sand, in mid-channel, at 2 cables from the north shore.

Mylor peninsula, a high and comparatively narrow strip of land
on the eastern side of Portland inlet, between Nasoga gulf and Nass bay,
is 9^ miles long in ft N. by E. and S. by W. direction, with an average
breadth of 2 miles. A small islet (Ranger islet) lies off its south extreme
and there the land is comparatively low (450 feet) ; but it rises quickly to
the height of 2,900 feet, and forms high, bold, precipitous shores. About
one mile from the north extreme of the peninsula the land again begins to
fall, and terminates in Low point, the low wooded point which forms the
south- west entrance of Nass bay.

Trefusis point, the south extreme of the peninsula, terminates in
high white cliffs. < , .

CBJIP. XIT.]

NASS BAT.

4.73

Ranger islet is a small bare islet, lying 3 cables from the shore of
Mylor peninsula, at the entrance of Nasoga gulf.

Soundings- — The water in the southern portion of Portland inlet is
deep, there being no bottom at 220 fathoms in mid-channel ; at 2 cables
from the western shore 99 fathoms ; and at 2 cables from the eastern shore
of the inlet 159 fathoms, mud.

NASS BAY* on the east shore lies immediately northward of Mylor
peninsula, at the mouth of Nass river. It is 2 miles wide at its entrance
the points of which lie north and south of each other, and the bay pre-
serves this width in an easterly direction for 3 miles, where it divides, one
branch taking a north-easterly direction to the mouth of Nass river, and
the other a south-westerly direction, forming Iceberg bay.

An extensive sand-flat occupies nearly the whole of the eastern portion
of the bay at low water. And the entrance into Nass river is obstructed
by a bar upon which there is only 9 feet at low water.

The western portion of Nass bay is deep ; but as the north shore is
approached, it shoals suddenly from 45 to 15 and then 2 fathoms
water.

Landmarks. — Low point is wooded, flat, and low. On the south
shore of the bay, Imlf a mile eastward of Low point, is Landslip mountain
2,042 feet high, with a bare side facing the north-west.

North, point, the north entrance point of the bay, terminates in a
bold cliff", and one mile eastward is Mission valley, a deep valley extending
to the northward, on the western side of which, one mile back from the
coast, is mount Tomlinson, a conspicuous mountain, 3,385 feet high.
Through the valley a large stream runs, dividing near its mouth into
two branches. Fort point, the north-west entrance point of Nass river,
terminates in white cliffs. And on the eastern side of the bay, some low,
dark islands (Mud islands) will be seen.

KinCOlith, a mission station situated east of the stream at the
mouth of the valley, is fronted by a sand-flat (Canoe flat), which renders
commuiication by boat, except at high water, almost impossible. There
are tv o saw mills here, one owned and worked by Indians. Gold is found
here in small quantities, and also coal. The temperature is very severe,
the thermometer in some winters falling to from 40'^ to 50° below zero for
weeks in succession.

Observation spot, at the east side of mission valley, is situated in
latitude 54° 59' 26" N., longitude 129° 57' 36" W.

* See Admiralty plan : — Nass bay, No. 2,190 ; scale, tn = 3 inches.

474 PORTLAND AND OBSERVATOEY INLETS, [chap. xiv.

AND PORTLAND CANAL.

CEUOO fl&t. — An extensive sand-flat commences at Fort point, and
taking a south-westerly direction, forms a triangle, the apex of which lies
6 cables off shore, south-east of the mission station ; thence it takes a
north-westerly direction, and meets the shore half a mile westward of
Kincolith.

Anchorage, in fine weather, may be had off Kincolith, nearly in the
middle of Nass bay, on the line joining the mission station and Landslip
mountain, in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, at about 8 cables from the north
shore ; with the mission flagstaff seen in line with the centre of Mission
valley, bearing N. by E., and Leading point (south side of Nass river) seen
just open of Fort point (north-west entrance of Nass river), bearing
N.E. by E. ^E. ' > - f .

Caution. — A strong ebb tide will be felt in this position, and care
must be exercised in taking up a berth, as Canoe flat is very steep-to, and
it is recommended to use the deep-sea lead in approaching it. ,

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Nass bay at Ih. 5m.;
springs rise 17 to 23 feet.

ICEBERG BAY, the south-west arm of Nass bay, is 3 miles long
in a S.S.W. direction, and not less than 7 cables wide ; the head of the bay,
terminating in a low swampy flat, fronted by a sand-flat, is only 3 miles
from the head of Nasoga gulf.

At the entrance of Iceberg bay the depth of 10 fathoms, and less, will be
found ; but as the head of the bay is approached the water will deepen to
over 40 fathoms.

Anchorage may be obtained at the entrance to Iceberg bay, in 7 to
8 fathoms, mud, with the north-west entrance point of Nass )ay (North
point) seen in line with the north-west entrance point of Iceberg bay
(Double islet point) bearing N.W. by W. J W. ; distant 6 cables from the
latter.*

DirectionS.^K taking up this anchorage, having rounded Low
point at a distance of 3 cables, keep the south shore of the bay on board ;
pass one cable northward of Double islet point, and anchor with that point
in line with North point, on the bearing above given.

Mud islands consist of two small islands lying 3^ cables N.N.E. and
S.S.W. of each other, parallel to the eastern shore, at 6 cables from it.
The northern island is 145, and the southern 106 feet high.

NASS RIVER flows into the north-east corner of Nass bay, the
mouth of the river being, however, obstructed by a sand-flat, which dries

* H.M.S. Scout anchored in 10 fathoms south-east of the two small islets, with just
sufficient room for the ship to swing. The tide, which runs strong in the fairway, is in
this position scarcely felt. — Navigating Lieutenant E. S. Clapp, R.N., 1872.

CHAP. XIV.]

.r, ICEBERG BAT. — NASS RIVER.

475

at low water, and extends towai'ds Iceberg bay. Bipple tongue, the south-
west extreme of this extensive flat, lies 2^ cables North from Double islet
point.

Within the river, the navigation is difficult and dangerous, the channel at
low water being barely available for large canoes ; local steamers, however,
from Victoria, drawing 6 feet water, venture up though they frequently
run aground. The Nass river, at its entrance abreast Fort point, is
1^ miles wide, whence its direction is E.N.E. for 7 miles, and N.N.E. for
7 miles, to abreast the Nass villages. The chancel near the mouth of the
river being tortuous, the distance by the channel from Fort point to the
Nass villages is about 16 miles. The river continues in a north-easterly
direction for 25 miles beyond the lower Nass villages, and there divides,
one branch running in a north-westerly direction. Kilawalaks, the head
of canoe navigation, is situated on the N.W. branch 40 miles from the
lower Nass villages. There were said to be, in 1868, 600 natives at
Kilawalaks.

Two salmon cannaries, a saw mill, store, two missionary stations, and
several Indian villages are situated along the stream. The climate is
favourable to the growth of fruit, cereals, and root crops near the coast.*

Nass villages. — The lower Nass villages, three in number, are
situated 16 miles from the entrance, the north and south villages being
situated on islands, and separated from the middle village at high water.
The south, middle, and north villages are known, respectively, by the
names of Kit min i ook, Kit lah kum ka dah, and Kit a kauze. The
population of the three villages amounted in 1868 to about 500.

Tides. — The time of high water at the lower Nass villages is uncer-
tain, depending apparently upon the freshets down the river. There
was no slack at high water, the water beginning to fall immediately it
had ceased to rise (August 1868). At low water there was slack for
one hour and a half. In the month of August the flood stream was not
felt above the Middle bank, and from Indian report this is the case at aU
seasons.

Ice. — The river is reported to freeze over down to its mouth during
severe winters.

Fisll. — The Houlican, from which the nutritious oil is obtained, the
principal sustenance of the Indians, are caught in great numbers durino'
the spring, as also are salmon. For this purpose, numerous fishing weirs
are erected along the banks of the river, especially on the south shore ; and
about 13 miles up, near Stony point, there is an establishment where the
fish are salted down and shipped oiF to Victoria.

The West Shore.

476 PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS, [chap. xiv.

AND PORTLAND CANAL.

Directions. — The Nuss river is used by nmall coasting; vessels after
half flood. The navigable channel is tortnous, and it is recommended not
to attempt the river until the strength of the flood tide has slackened. The
channel is liable after freshets to cliange.

OBSERVATORY INLET, northward of Nass bay, and called
by the Indians Kit sah watl, is generally speaking similar to the other
inlets ; in some parts however the shores are low, and wooded, the land
rising at a few miles back to 4,000 and 5,000 feet high. The low wooded
shore has an undergrowth of thick moss, overlying rock, and saturated with
moisture, which renders travelling difficult.

Abreast the north-west entrance point of Nass bay. Observatory inlet is
1^ miles wide, having a general northerly direction for about 12 miles,
thoiice N. by W. for 4 miles, and widening to 3 miles abreast Salmon cove.
Northward of Salmon cove, the inlet widens to 4 miles, and at 6 miles from
the cove, is obstructed by several islands, islets, and rocks. At 10 miles
from Salmon cove the inlet divides into two arms, one taking a north-
easterly direction for 12 miles, the other a north-westerly direction for
15 miles ; both arms terminating in low, wooded swamps, fronted by mud
flats.

SALMON COVE* lies on the western shore, 19 miles from
Ramsden point and 39 miles from Wales point.

Richard point, the north point of Salmon cove, is a long, wooded,
conspicuous projection. From its north-east extreme the land trends in a
south-westerly direction, for 1| miles, to the head of Salmon cove, which
is barely 3 cables wide in that position.

A sand-flat extends 2 cables from the south shore at the entrance to
Salmon cove.

Anchorage was obtained by Vancouver in Salmon cove "in 31 and
" 35 fathoms water, muddy and small stony bottom. The points of the
" cove bore by compass N.N.E. and S. by E., and the nearest land W. by
" S., 1^ cables distant; and the opposite shore of the inlet E.N.E. one
" mile distant."

Anchorage was also obtained by Vancouver in 30 fathoms, on the
eastern, shore, one mile northward of Salmon cove. On two other occasions
he anchored in Observatory inlet, in 85 and 45 fathoms respectively,
"steadying with a hawser to trees on shore."

Soundings. — The water in the reach south of Salmon cove is deep,
there being over 100 fathoms in mid-channel. The shores are compact and
steep, with no known danger beyond 1^ cables from the shore.

* This cove was so named by Vancourer from the abundance of salmon found in a
stream which flowed into it.

OHAP, XIT.]

SALMON COVE. — HASTINGS ARM.

477

Brooke island, 2 J miles loug and half a mile broail at its northern
end, is low and wooded. The south extreme of this island lies 4 miles
northward of Richard point, and 5 cables from the eastern shore.

Several patches of rock, which uncover at low water, extend 5 cables
northward from Brooke island.

Paddy passage is half a mile wide, between Brooke island and the
eastern shore, but near its northern end it is barely 2 cables wide ; the
navigable channel being reduced to that width by the ledges which extend
northward from Brooke island.

Frank point, situated 5 miles N. by W., from Richard point, and 1;^
miles from the western shore of Brooke island, is low, and wooded ; between
it and Richard point the land trends considerably to the westward, and
forms near the latter point a bight nearly 2 miles deep. Northward of
Frank point, the western shores are much broken, with several deep bays,
which take a southerly direction.* ^

Xschwan is the name of a salmon fishery which lies at the head of
a small bay on the western shore, 4 miles northward of Frank point.

Larcom island, situated nearly in mid-channel, at the mouth of
Hastings arm, is about 5 miles long, in a N.N.W. ^ W. and S.S.E. ^ E.
direction, with an average breadth of half a mile ; its south extreme lying
6 cables north-westward from Brooke island. The island is flat, wooded,
and comparatively low. At its south-west end, there is an extensive
lagoon.

The Channel westward of Larcom island, is obstructed near the north
end of that island by several islets and rocks, and is only available for
boats.

HASTINGS ARM passes eastward of Larcom island, and t^kes a
general N.W. ^ N. direction for 4 miles, thence westward for about one
mile, and N.W. by N. for 9 miles, until it terminates at the head of the
inlet.

This branch of Observatory inlet is from one-half to one n;ile wide,
terminating in the usual manner, — a wooded swamp, ^''•onted by a mud flat.

Directions. — The water in Hastings arm .. Lcp with no known
anchorage ground. If proceeding into this channel, pass between Brooke
and Larcom islands, taking care to avoid the foul ground whic^ extends
half a mile northward from the former ; a mid-channel course is clear of
danger.

* Vancouver camped in the bay nearest to Frank point. He states that having
pitched his tent among the pine trees, " at least 20 feet abore the surface of the water at
*' our landing, and as we thought sufficiently without the reach of the tide, yet at about 2
« in the morning (25tb July 1798) it flowed into our tents, and we were obliged to return
- to our boat!."— Vancoaver'a Voyages, Vol. II., p. 336.

478 PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS,

AND PORTLAND CANAL.

[ciiAP. xn-.

ALICE ARM, the eastern branch of Observatory iulet, from its
junction with Hastings arm, runs in a northerly direction 8 miles, N.E.
3 miles, E. by N. 4 miles, and N. by E< 3 miles, terminating in the usual
manner. This arm is obstructed at its entrance by a small wooded island
Liddle island) which divides it into two channels 3 cables wide. There is
a depth of 23 fathoms in mid-channel in the southern, and 16 fathomji in
the northern of these passages.

Alice arm varies in width from half a mile to 2 miles ; the latter being
a the head of the inlet. The flat at the head is extensive, and through it
a large stream flowr, flanked on its eastern side by mountains over 5,000
feet high.*

Perry bay, situated on the eastern shore at the entrance to Alice arm,
is 2^ cables wide, and takes a southerly direction for nearly one mile, with
depths of 14 and 18 fathoms, mud bottom, in mid-channel.

Off its western entrance point lies a small islet (Sophy islet). At the
head of the bay there is a salmon fishery (Muckshwanne). ..• ?< i

Tides. — The strength of tide in Observatory inlet depends upon the
freshets caused by the melting snow. Abreast Nass bay, the ebb i
with gi'eat strength, the blue water being clearly defined when rai
the muddy waters of the Nass river.

It is high water, full and change, in Observatory inlet at Ih. 5m. ;
springs rise 23 feet, neaps 12 feet,

PORTLAND CANAL.— At about 20 miles from Wales point,
an arm branches off N.W. 6 miles, with an average breadth of l^ miles.
Here a channel (now named Pearse channel) stretches to the south-west,
which was not examined in the survey of 1868. From this the canal
trends North about 13 miles to abreast Camp point ; thence ia a direction
varying from N.W. ^ W. to N.W. ^ N. for about 30 miles, and finally,
Northerly for about 12 miles, to its termination. Throughout the canal
no soundings were obtained at 40 fathoms. It possesses the general
characteristics of the other fiords on the coast of British Columbia, viz.,
high land on both shores, terminating in low swampy lana at the head,
and deep water, with few and indifferent anchorages.

In places the mountains rise almost perpendicularly abc ve the high-
water line to the height of 6,000 feet. Their summits v ere (August
18C8) snow-clad, and the melting snow produced many w^*p''fall3 and
avalanches ; the latter could be heard falline; almost constantly during the
day-time. With the exception of a fe>. wooded valleys at the mouths of
streams, the snow line was very low at midsummer, being within 20 feet

♦ Viincouver met with friendly natives, whose village was at the head of this branch.
'J'hnir language, in some respects, resembled that spokan at Queen Charlotte island.

CHAP. XIV.] rOETLAND CANAL ; CLIMATE, &C.

479

of tho high-water line in some of the vallej's on the western shore,
and reaching to within 500 feet of tho high-wator lino on tho mountain
sides. •' *•'' > ' i'

The head of Portland canal tcrrainatos in low, woody, swampy land,
through which two rivers flow into it.

The two rivers (Bear and Salmon) at tho head of Portland canal arc
separated by a high ridge of bare mountains. On tho oast side of the
valley of Bear river a mountain range extends in an east and west
direction ; mount Disraeli, the highest peak of the range, being a snow-
clad pinnacle, 7,000 feet high. The delta of the Bear and Salmon
rivers consists of a mud flat, which covers at high water, and extends
over one mile from the mouth of the former river. This deposit of mud is
nearly steep- to, breaking down suddenly to no bottom at 40 fathoms.

Current' — During the month of August 1868, a cun'ent of about
1^ knots an hour was observed, setting down Portland canal, to the distance
of 25 miles below the mouth of LjaiTiver. . ....

Climate. — The sun's rays in August, between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., were
ve.-y powerful, and, reflected froin the snow, caused occasionally intense
heat. When the sun was obscured by the mountains, the atmosphere at
once conveyed a sensation of chilliness. During that month, just before
sunrise, the thermometer registered 32° Fahrenheit, water left in basins
within the tent being frozen during the night. The vapour developed by
the heat of the sun during the early portion of the day, becoming condensed
on the mountainous shores of the inlet, usually fell as a drizzling rain from
3 p.m. to about midnight.

Temperature of the sm-face water, within 20 miles of the head of
tho canal, was 33°. At that distance from the mouth of the Bear river
the water on the surface was fresh.

Supplies. — Salmon, mountain sheep, bears, and ben-ies abound at
the head of Portland canal.

Timber, &C. — Pine and cedar ai-e the principal trees met with,
the former tall, and almost bare to the top, and frequently above 100 feet
high. Cedars are found in many places of great size, with branches
close to the ground. Maple trees are occasionally seen, being distinguished
by their light and variegated tints of green. Yellow cypress is also met
with, being distinguished from the pine by its leaf, convex on both sides,
and by its peculiar odour.

The wood of the yellow cypress is light, tough, and durable, and useful
for repairing or building boats.

480

PORTLAND CANAL.

[chap. XIV,

Natives.* — A party consisting of about 200 natives were met with
fishing at the mouth of Salmon river ; they annually visit the head of the
Portland canal.

Dogfish bay,t situated on the eastern shore, about 3^ miles north-
westward of Rarasden point, is about 1^ miles wide, half a mile deep,
and faces the south-west ; it is, however, filled by a sand-flat at low water,
rendering it useless as an anchorage.

Windy islet is small, and lies close to the shore at the nortli. entrance
point of Dogfish bay.

Tre6 point, on the western shore, 4^ miles from Portland point
is low, wooded, and conspicuous, with high land at about one mile south
of it.

Tree point reef extends half a mile in a northerly direction from
Tree point, "ud is nearly st€ep-to.

Spit point, on the eastern shore, 6 miles from Ramsden point, is the
turning point into the northern i-each. Between Spit point and Dogfish
bay several small wooded islets lie close to the eastern shore, and are
connected with it at low Avater. A tongue of sand, which uncovers at low
water, extends 3 cables south-west from Spit point.

Reef island, a small island lying on the western shore abreast Spit
point, lies 2f miles N.W. from Tree bluff, and IJ miles W.S.W. from
Spit point.

Two small bays, with sandy beaches, lie under Reef island, in which a
boat may find shelter. A reef with rocks awash at high water, and sunken
rocks, extends 2 cables south-east from Reef island.

* These Indians (apparently of the Nass tribe) were civil to the Admiralty surveying
party. By order of their chief they cleared the ground and helped to pitch the tent,
brought the gear out of the boat, hauled her up, and placed canoes at the party's
disposal.

They had, they stated, never before met white men at the head of Portlar' canal,
nor heard of any visiting it. Their canoes were manipulated with marvellous dexterity.
When shooting the rapids, one man stood in the bow, and another in the stern, each
armed with a long pole carried on opposite sides of the canoe. When nearing a boulder
over which the torrent boiled, and when destruction seemed imminent, the man in the
bow placed his pole in the ground, the current caught the canoe, reversing her end
for end, clear of the danger.

f Halibut weighing three hundredweight are caught off Dogfish bay. Tho Indians
use for this purpose a large wooden hook, not unlike an anchor wilh one arm. The
line is made of gut, and the bait is usually clam or other shell tish. The fish are caught
in depths of 100 fathoms, and upwards.

"^•n"wv L'f^"(^» "^'. ■

CHAF. XIV.]

HALIBUT BAT.

481

From mid-channel between Reef island and Spit point, the canal has a
North direction for about 13 miles, with an average width of one mile.
The eastern shore of this reach is bold and unbroken, but on the western
shore are two small bays. -

Leading point, a high bold point, on the wedtern shore, lies
2^ miles north from Reef island.

Dickons point is on the eastern shore, 4 miles from Spit point,
the coast between them having a considerable curve to the eastward.

A small black rock, 8 feet above high water, lies close south of Dickens
point, and a ledge of rocks which uncover, extends 2 cablcb from the
point.

Sandfly bay, situated on the western shore, abreast Dickens point, is
half a mile wide, and three-quarters of a mile deep in a north-west direction,
terminating in a swamp with streams in the north-west and north-east
corners. At the north point of the baj, two small islets lie close to the
shore.

Sandfly bay is nearly filled up at low-water by a sand-flat, with deep
water close-to, and is therefore useless p.s an anchorage.

Stopford point, hold and conspicuous, lies on the eastern shore,
8^ miles from Dickens point.

HALIBUT BAY on the western shore, 4 miles from Sandfly
bay, is half a mile wide at its entrance, and extends back 1^ miles in a
N.W. by W. direction, having an extensive swamp at its head, through
which three Inrge streams flow. Off the south point of this bay lie a
cluster of small black rocky islets. * '

Anchorage. — The only known anchorrtge in Portland canal is in
Halibut bay, in mid-channel, at 3 cables within the entrance, in 6 to
10 fathoms, mud bottom.

Cross islet, a small wooded isl, connected at low water with tho
shore, lies close northward of HoH'.ut bay. A rude wooden cross was
found on this islet, placed there at ;;ome remote period, apparently to mark
a grave.

Logan point lies on the eastern shore, 3| mile3 from Stopford point.
At 3 miles south-east of Logan point, is a conspicuous saddle-shaped
mountain, 5,057 feet high.

Camp point, on the western shore, i the turning point of the
northern arm, which abreast of that point changes in direction from North
to W.N.W. ; it is wooded, bold, and precipitous.

A 17498. H H

482

POiiiLAND CANAL.

[chap. xnr.

Centre island, situated nearly in mid-channel, abreast Camp point
ia 400 yards long in a north and south direction, with some stunted brush
growing upon it. ,. ■ , ; v:-! H

A ledge of rocks awash, and sunken rocks, extend 2 cables north-
ward from Centre island. The water is deep on either side of the island,
beyond the distance of 2 cables from it, but tho channel westward of the
island is recommended.

Barclay valley lies on the eastern shore, abreast Centre island ; a large
streams flov? through it, and the neck of land separating Portland canal
and Salmon cove (Observatory inlet) is here about 4 miles across.

Landslip point lies on the eastern shore, 2 miles northward of
Centre island. Three conspicuous landslips are seen on the mountains
south of Landslip point.

BlufF point terminates in a high bold cliff, and lies on the eastern
shore, 2 miles from Landslip point. The channel abreast Bluff point is
one mile wide.

Breezy point, on the western shore, 3^ miles fi'om Camp point, is
conspicuous, and the land recedes to the southward between Camp and
Breezy points.

Tombstone bay lies on the western shore, 3 miles N.W. by N.,
from Breezy point. At its entrance, the bay is 3 cables wide, and takes
a southerly direction, narrowing rapidly, until it terminates at one mile
within the entrance at the mouth of a river.

An extensive well-wooded valley lies at the head of the bay, and on the
north side of the valley, a I'emarkable mountain, with a snow-clad summit
of dome shape, rises to the height of 6,500 feet. I'rout are plentiful in
the river flowing into this bay. Berries are found in abundance, especially
ealmor berries and the wild raspberry.*

Maple point lies on the eastern shore, 3 miles from Bluff point.
Maple trees grow upon this point, and when in leaf render it conspicuous.
Immediately northwarr" of Maple point is a bay, with a largo stream flowing
into it, fronte<l by a sand-flat. ■ ■

Swamp point, » low, marshy, wooded point, througli v/hich a river
flows, lies 3 miles N.W. ^ W. from Maple point. A aundspit extends half
a mile to the southward from Swamp point.

* An Indian B«ttlenieut oiice existed on the eliores of thiH bay. The inhabitants had
apparently, been overtaken by an ci)i(lemic, as many ^keletoDS were seen lying on the
ground, ivitti bozuH and various chattdls near theui. A rudu sort of tombstone had been
erected uvar ouu of the skeletons.

CHAP. XIV.]

TOMBSTONE BAY. — PIRIE POINT.

483

Above Swamp point, the channel takes a general direction of N.W. \ W.,
to abreast of White point. , "' '' ''" "'

Piri© point, situated N.W. by W., 2 miles from Swamp point, is
high, bold and conspicuous. A sand-pit extends 2 cables from the eastern
shore mid-way between Swamp and Pirie points.

Whit© point lies on the eastern shore, 4 miles from Pirie point.
From al^reast White point the channel takes a general direction of
N.N.W. i W. for 7 miles, to abreast of Blue point.

Turn point lies on the westeiTi shore, 1| miles from Tombstone bay
and is high, bold, and conspicuous.

Steep point on the western shore, 6 miles from Turn point, is bold
and steep-to. Two large streams flow into the sea, mid-way between Turn
and Steep points.

Foggy point lies on the western shore, N.W. i W., 6 miles from
Steep point. Tlie coast between Steep and Foggy points trends con-
siderably to the southward in a deep curve, and at 2^ miles southward of
the point is an extensive valley lying in a southerly direction, between
mountains from 3,500 and 4,000 feet high. The valley is thickly wooded,
and a large stream flows through it.

Bay islet, on the eastern shore abreast of Foggy point, is small and
wooded, and lies one cable off a point which divides two sandy bays, being
connected with the point at low iter.

Green islets ire two email, wooded islofs, on the eastern shore,
2 miles from Bay islet. Close northward o' these islets tiiere is a con-
siderable tract of comparatively low land, thickly wooded, i ough which
a large stream flows. ^ ; , :,-,,

Slab point, terminating in a high, smooth, slate-col '^ured cliir, lies on
the western sliore, 2 miles from Foggy point.

Blue point, on the eastern shore, 5| miles from Green islet, and
1;^ miles from Cliffy point (on the western shore), terminates in high, bold
cliffs, of purple Mue colour, and basaltic formation. ('In south of the
P'fnt, an extensive wooded valley extends to the north-eastwai-d, through
•which two large streams flow. A sandspit extends off" their mouths to
the distance of 2 cables. " '

Cliflf point terminates in high whito cliffs, and is steep-to. From
mid-channel between Blue and Cliff points, the inlet runs in a N.W.
direction for 2^ miles, then N.N.W. ^ W. 3 miles, and thence in a general
northerly direction to its termination.

HH 2

4>84i

PORTLAND CANAL.

[chap. xit.

Verdure point, on the western shore, lies 4 miles N.W. by N. from
Cliff point. The maple trees growing upon this point, when in leaf,
render it conspicuous. *

Mid-way between CliflF and Verdure points, there is an extensiye
wooded valley, through which a large stream flows in a south-westerly
direction. Close northward of Verdure point is a bay, with a conspicaooB
sandy beach at its head.

Landslip point, one mile N.W. by N. from Verdure point, is con-
spicuous, it having high landslip over it.

Round point is the turning point, on the eastern shore, into the
northern and last reach of Portland canal. With the exception of a small
bay, which dries throughout at low water, the eastern shore northward of
Blue point, for 6 miles, is high, bold, and almost inaccessible. The northern
extreme of Round point lies 6 miles from Blue point.

Seal rocks* on the western shore, at the entrance of Ihe north reach
of the canal, are of small extent, and lie 2 cables from the western shore.
The highest rock is 6 feet above high water. Between Verdure point, and
the point o£E which Seal rocks lie, the coast curves considerably to the
westward. At one mile to the southward of the latter point, an extenrive
wooded valley takes a westerly direction, between high mountains, and a
large stream flows through it.

Marmot river, on the eastern shore, 2^ miles from the month of
Bear river, flows through an extensive valley which lies in an easterly
direction. A sandspit extends 3 cables off" the mouth of Marmot river, and
is steep-to. At the head of the valley, a mountain range with three
conspicuons peaks, 4,000 to 5,000 feet high, extends in a north-west and
south-east direction.

Salmon river, on the western store, 1^ miles from Bear rirer,
is separated from that river by tho Reverdy Johnson mountains, a range
of bare mountains 4,000 to 5,00{) feet, high. It is a stream of considerable
size, and the valley through which it flows is half a mile wide at its month,
the river then takes a north-westerly direction, widening to one and 2
miles, and is flanked by high mountains. The north shore, near the entrance
of the valloj, is 1868 was the head quarters, during the fishing season, of a
party jf Indians, apparently of the Nass tribe.

B ftar river flows through an extensive wooded flat, at the head of
the Portland canal, and divides near its mouth into several streams, from
which, during the summer months, when the snow is melting, a considerable
body of water passes out into the inlet. Tht valley through which this
river flows extends 10 miles in a northerly direction from the month of

* Many fur seals were seen upon this cluster (August 1868).

caip. xiy.]

SALMON AND BEAR RIVERS.

485

Bear river, and is thickly wooded, and flanked by the Gladstone mountains,
4,800 feet high ; it terminates at the foot of the Disraeli mountains,
a ron^^ which extends in an east and west direction. The Bear and
Salmon xivers have a mud flat extending across their mouths, rendering
<iommunication, even by canoes, difficult at low water. Commencing at
about 3 cables south of Salmon river valley, this deposit of mud extends
across the canal in a' north-easterly direction, passing over one mile from
the mouth of Bear river. The edge of the bank is steep, breaking down
almost suddenly to no bottom at 40 fathoms. " ■ '

Anchorage was unsuccessfully searched for off" the above-mentioned
delta of the Salmon and Bear rivers. The depth of 24 fathoms was found
alongside the edge of the mud at low water ; and at the distance of 50 yards
£rom it, no bottom could be obtained at 40 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the head of Portland canal
at Ih. 30 m.; springs rise from 23 to 27 feet, and occasionally 30 feet,
neaps IS to 20 feet. In August 1868 it was noticed that the night tides
rose considerably higher than the day tides. ■>» , •' ,■ . ■ r ■; , ■ ' t

Observation spot, at the wooded high-water mark of the point
near the centre of the mouth of Bear river, was found, by observations
taken in August 1868, to be situated in latitude 55° 56' 03" N., longitude
130° 03' 27" W,, depending on Duntze head, Esquimalt harbour being in
ongitude 123° 26' 45" W.

x^Tvf.n 486 "•'^* K.v^ir.t^?:.

(jrm .djUKer

CHAPTER XV.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

,•■> :-:'. ttsHK ,n*vn't«<i||

OOfe,*

Vakiation, 26° 10' East iu 1888. *-

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, consisting of three
principal islands, may be regarded as a partly submerged mountain
range, — a line drawn from the southern extremity of the islaiida to their
north-western point, representing its axis, — which, together with several
smaller islands, forms a compact archipelago, situated between the parallels
of 51° 50' and 54° 15' N., and the meridians of 130° 54' and 133° 10' W.*

The general character of these islands is mountainous and heavily
timbered, and the mining resources are very extensive. The only industry
at present is the manufacture of oil from the dog fish. The chief item of
trade is in fur seals, the value of which is about 10,000 dollars annually.f
..-.The channels between the main islands are named Houston Stewart and
Skidegate, the former or southern channel separating Prevost and Moresby
islands ; and the latter, or northern, Moresby and Graham islands.

PREVOST ISLAND, the southernmost island of the group, is
about 12^ miles long north and south, with a breadth of 8^ miles. The
land gradually rises northward from cape St. James (its south point) till
near Houston Stewart channel, where it has in places an „ievation of about
2,000 feet, which heights, if the weather is clear, will be the first land seen
on approaching Queen Charlotte islands from the southward.

The east coast of Prevost island is bold, and in many places bordered
by steep cliffs. This part of the coast, between cape St. James and
East point, a distance of 12 miles, is indented by two bays or inlets, the
southern apparently inconsiderable, while Luxana bay, the northern, is
probably 3 or 4 miles in depth. From East point the shore trends north-
westward 6 or 7 miles to Moore head, the south-east entrance point of
Houston Stewart channel. The s^ore is much broken, being penetrated by
inlets which extend back among the high hills. Several small islands lie
off it, one of which is bold, densely covered with trees, and has a height
of 150 feet.

The western side of Prevost island, between cape St. James and the
western entrance of Houston Stewart channel, for about 12 miles is

* *'ee Admiralty charts: — Queen Charlotte islands, No. 2,430 j scale, m = C 13 of an
inch. Also, Cape Caution to Port Siiipson, No. 1,928, a and 6 ; scale, m » 0' 25 of an
inch.

■f For climate and wind, see pages ii, 10.

CHAP. XV.] PREVOST ISLAND. — HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL. 487

apparently bold, but it is less known than the opposite side. The land
near cape St. James is not as thickly wooded as that to the northward.

Capo St. James, so named by Captain Dixon who rounded the cape
on St. .James' day 1787 in the Queen Charlotte, appears to be the southern
extremity of an island one mile in diameter, the narrow channel separating
it from Prevost island running W.S.W. and E.N.E. The southern point
of cape St. James is a vertical cliff about the same height as the larger of
the islets lying off it. The cape slopes gradually from a summit 1,000 feet
high to the sea, low at its extreme, with the Hummock islets lying
off it (two apparently detached hummock islets), about 180 feet high ;
outside these again lie three other?., nearly 100 feet high, l)are and whitish j
the western side of the cape is also whitish.*

Cape St. James is situated in latitude 51° 54' 0' N., longitude 131° 2' 0" W.

KerOliart islets received their name from La Perouse, and consist
of a chain of rocky islet3 and rocks which run off from cape St. James
8^ miles in a south-easterly direction, corresponding with that of the
mountain axis of the group. A sunken ledge is reported to extend 1^ miles
further in the same direction. As seen at a distance of some miles to the
north-east, Kerouart islets appear to form three groups, the first lying
close to Cape St. James, consisting of two large rocks (Hummock islets),
the second of one large and several smaller rocks, and the third and
furthest southward, of two or three rocks of some size and a number of
lesser ones. These islets are remarkable, standing boldly up with rounded
tops, and vertical cliffs on all sides ; the sm&i ; gr rocks having the same
pillar-like form bo frequently found where a rocky coast is exposed to the
full sweep of a great ocean. They serve as secure breeding p^.aces for
innumerable gulls, puffins, and other sea birds.

With cape St. James bearing W. by S. J S. about 3^ miles, and the
northernmost rock above water S. ^V. ^ S., there is a depth of 90 fathoms.
Precaution is necessary when approachiug this part of the coast.

HOUSTON STEWART CHANNELt trends from .ioore
head W.S.W. 2^ miles to Hornby point, thence S.S.W. 3 miles to the
entrance from the Pacific ocean. Opposite the bend formed by Hornby point
is Rose harbour. Louscoone, at the west entrance of the channel and just
within Anthony island, is said to be a good harbour similar to Eoso harbour.
The country round this locality is mountainous, mostly rising steeply from
the shore, and thickly wooded ; the treesi, however, are stunted and show
much dead wood, the roots holding to the almost naked rock. There \i no

* Captain G. H. Richards, H.M. surveying Tessel Hecate, 1863.

t See Admiralty plana of ports, &c. in Queen Charlotte iaIaiidB, No. 2,168.

488

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[oHAP. xr.

arable land, and the little soil is poor. Sea otters are numerous, the fur of
which fetches very high prices.

Entering from the Eastward. — This entrance may bo known
by its bold south point, and the round thickly wooded islet. At about
•1 miles from the entrance there are 90 fathoms water, and the depth
gradually shoals to 20 fathoms to within one mile of it ; from this distance
off, the soundings are very irregular, varying from 30 to 7 fathoms over a
series of ridges or bars of rock, sand, shell, and mud. In the entrance,
which is about one mile wide, between Moore head and Langford point there
are 20 fathoms water, with a rocky bottom.

Raspberry cove. — Within Forsyth point, at one mile westward of
Langford point on the northern side, is a snug bay, bordered by a sandy
beach, in which, at about two-thirds of a mile from Forsyth point, and at
one-third of a mile from the beach, is a secure and convenient anchorage in
16 fathoms. In the north-west part of the bay is Raspberry cove, into
which a stream of water flows.

Rock. — At a quarter of a mile inside Forsyth point, and a little to the
northward of the line of the direction of the channel, is a I'ocky patch with
kelp on it which dries at low-water springs ; a vessel, therefore, should
not haul to the northward too soon after entering.

On the southern side of the channel are some small wooded islands,
here and there fringed with outlying patches of kelp, which latter should
.always be avoided. • ■ . '

Trevan rock, H miles W.S.W. from Forsyth point, lying nearly
«iid-channel, and contracting the passage on its northern side to rather less
than half a mile ; patches of kelp and Ellen island, the largest of the
islands before mentioned, reduce the channel on the southern side of it
to about one cable in width. Trevan rock is covered at high water j close
to the north side of it the depth is 7 fathoms.

Ancliorage. — There is a good anchorage to the eastward of Ellen
island,* which was used by H.M.S. Alert in 1858, in a bay formed by the
isLind and a rocky patch which covers at half tide, at nearly half a mile
to the eastward of the island. The anchorage is in 14 fathoms, mud, and
the tide is not felt.

ROSE HARBOUR. — Thig secure and capacious harbour on the
north side of Houston Stewart channel, takes a N.N.W. direction between
Catherine point on the west and Ross island on the east, for 3 miles from
its junction with the channel, and is a continuation in nearly a straight line
with the western portion of it. For the first 2 miles the average breadth

' JNavigating Lieuteuant A. F. Boxer.

QUAf, ZV-]

BASPBBKRY COVE. — EOSE HAEBOUE.

489

of the harbour is three-quarters of a mile, the western shore rising boldly
with deep water close-to ; the eastern shore, although high, has kelp along
it, with shoal water, extending for a distance of from one to 2^ cables.
The harbour then contracts to half a mile in width between two low
points forming its head, beyond which is a basin, about 2 miles in
circumference, filled with rocks and wooded islets, having on its
western side Sedmond river, a small stream abounding in the season with
geese and ducks. The land on its north and west sides is high and
mountainous, whilst that on its eastern side is low. This basin is separated
from South cove in Carpenter bay by a narrow neck of low wooded land.

Pincher rocks lie nearly 2 cables S. by E. from the east entrance point
of the basin.

Danger rocks. — About 3 miles to the northward of the eastern
entrance to Houston Stewart channel, and at about 2 miles oiF the low
and densely wooded point between the east entrance of Houston Stewart
channel and Carpenter bay, is a ledge of rocks, lying a little above water,
on which the sea breaks violently, and for a considerable distance around;
other rocks encircle these, but they are under water. Approaching Houston
Stewart channel from the northward, these rocks should be given a wide
berth. On the north side of the low wooded point is a little cove full of
kelp and protected by rocks, with an Indian house in it, which appears to
be occupied at times.

Entering from Westward. — The southern arm of Houston
Stewart channel is about 3 miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wide,
with several small islands (Gordon isles) at its southern end or entrance
from the Pacific. The shores of both sides are bold and densely wooded.
Vessels from the southward bound in by this entrance, when abreast cape
St. James, should close the land to 1^ miles, and after coasting it for about
12 miles, the entrance will open out. Two remarkable white stripes down
the mountains, 6 or 7 miles to the north-westward, are excellent landmarks.
After passing at a convenient distance to the southward of Anthony island,
the largest and outer island at the entrancp, which is 200 feet high,
with white cliffs (off the southern end of which an extensive ledge of rocks
projects 4 cables in a south-west direction), the channel will show itself.
Flat rock, 50 feet high, bare and resembling a haystack, lies much nearer
the western than the eastern side, and which should be kept on the poit
hand, will be a good guide.* There is an Indian village known as Nin-
stints, of the Shangoi tribe, on the inner side of Anthony island ; the
natives are very wild, and persons visiting or trading with them should be
on their guard.

* H.M.S. Hecate, September 18C2, passed between Flat rock and Gordon islets, and
anchored in Raspberry cove, on the north shore, in 16 fathoms.

490

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[C»'^l*. XV.

MORESBY ISLAND, the centre of the three principal islands of
the (^ueen Charlotte group, is 72 miles long, but explo'-dtions on its east
coast have resulted (by tracing out of the channels), in leaving it a mere
skeleton, in places varying from only 1^ to 2 mile., m breadth. The highest
and most rugged part of the island is probably in about latitude 52° 30',
where many peaks bear patches of perennial snow, and attain altitudes of
over 5,000 feet. Also on Louise island, and about the head of Cuinshewa,
the land is very rugged, with many summits of over 3,000 and 4,000 feet
is height.

CARPENTER BAY, the southernmost bay on the east side of
Moresby island, is between Iron point on its north-western, and Islet point
on its south-eastern side, a little over 2 miles wide, extending westward
about 5 miles. It is not quite land locked, but is sheltered from the
only direction othei^wise exposed, by a little rocky reef which extends out
from its east side. On its south side are two small bays, the western
of which, South cove, approaches near to the head of Rose harbour. At
its head is good anchorage for a small vessel in from 6 to 10 fathoms.

Carpenter bay ends westward in a narrow arm, which receives two
streams of some size. It resembles the head of T^ose harbour in being
filled with small rocky islands, and rocks, making it unsafe for even a small
craft. The general character of the country surrounding the bay is like
that of Houston Stewart channel. In June there were many seals in the
hay. • ' „ ' '

Collison bay, situated between Carpenter bay and Skincuttle inlet,
is about IJ miles wide between Bluff point, its south-east point of entrance,
and the north-west point, and has a probable depth of 2 miles. It runs up
into a narrow arm, which has not been examined. Several small islands
and rocks lie off its entrance, and it does not appear to be serviceable as a
harbour.

" Gull rock, 10 feet high, bears N.E. by E. 1^ miles from Deluge
point, and is three-quarters of a mile off Moresby island, between Collison
bay and Skincuttle inlet. Inner Low rock lies S.S.E. from Gull rock,
and midway between it and the shore.

SKINCUTTLE INLET* is 5^ miles deep in a south-west direc-
tion, with a width of 4 miles between Deluge point on the south and Granite
point on the north side of its entrance. The north side of the inlet is

* A small shaft has been sunk and a few openings made in connection with an attempt
at copper mining. There is no true vein here, but magnetic iron ore, with a little copper
pyrites.

See Admiralty plan : — Skincuttle inlet, on sheet of Forts in Queen Charlottle islands,
No. 3,168 ; scale, m = 0* 5 of an inch.

ouxv.xv.] MORESBY ISLAND. — SKINCUTTLB INLET.

491

formed by Burnaby island, and from the north-west angle Burnaby strait
•una northward to Juan Perez sound, and separates Burnaby island from
the east shore of Moresby island. The shores of Skincuttle inlet resemble
those of other parts of the islands already described. Near the north-west
angle of the inlet the mountains rise steeply to a height of 3,000 feet or
more.

The entrance to Skincuttle inlet is south of a chain of islands, called the
Copper islands, lying E.N.E. and W.S.W. It is 1^ miles wide, but should
be used with caution as there is reason to believe that a rock, sometimes
bare, lies in it. The passage to the north of the Copper islands is con-
tracted, and with one or more rocks in its narrowest part.

GranitO point is a rather remarkable whitioh crag, separated from
the main shore by a narrow neck of low land.

The BolkUS islands, five in number, with many small rocks and
reefs, form a chain about 2 miles long, lying east and west in the centre
of Skincuttle inlet. The land is low, and on the western and largest of
the islands the soil appears to be good, though now covered with dense
forest. ■;!, . :., ; , - - ,

A rock awash at high water lies midway between the Bolkus islands and
the south shore, and at equal distonces from the entrances to Harriet
harbour and Huston inlet. Bush rock is situated at the distance of one
cable north-west from the east entrance point of Huston inlet, and 8 cables
W. ^ S. from it is Low Black rock.

Tt. Harriet Harbour, the first opening on the south shore of Skincuttle
inlet, is 2 miles westward from the south entrance point (Deluge point),
and extends southward one mile. It should be entered by the channel
on the west side of Harriet island, which lies at its entrance, and a vessel
should be kept near the west side of the channel (as several small rocks
covered at high water lie along Harriet island), and run some distance beyond
the inner end of the island before anchoring, to avoid the shoal bank which
lies off its point. The depth is about 8 fathoms, with good holding
ground, and the harbour is well sheltered from most directions, though
subject to heavy squalls from the valley at its head when a southerly gale
is blowing.* '

Huston inlet, ^ miles west of Harriet harbour, is a wide inlet
which runs south-eastward about 4 miles, and then turns to the west, in
which direction its extremity was not visited, but it approaches the
western side of Moresby island to within about 1^ miles.

♦ H.M.S. Hecate, September 1862, anchored in Skincuttle in 9^ fathoms at low
■water, with east side of Harriet island bearing S. 27° E., right extreme of Flat islauds
N. 39° £., and Green islet N. 89° E.

492

QUEEN CEARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[oHAP. xr.

Tangle COVO. — At the western end of Skincuttlo inlet are three
indentations of the coast, of which the southern is George harbour. The
northern, lying at the entrance of Burnaby strait, is Tangle cove, a well
sheltered anchorage for u small veaarl, but a shoal, the extent of which
is unknown, lies off its entrance. The entrance is between a small island
at its south side, and two other little islets to the north, and in it is a rock
which uncovers at low water. The mountains at the head of Tangle cove
are steep, and probably reach 3,000 feet in height ; part of their upper
slopes arc bare of trees, but apparently covered with moss, where not
composed of rock.

North side. — On the south shore of Burnaby island is a buy, with
several small islands across the mouth of it, which may be a good harbour,
but it has not been examined. Farther east, in the vicinity of an
abandoned copper mine, are Blue Jay and Kingfisher coves.

BURNABY STRAIT, between the west shore of Burnaby island
and Moresby island, is 9 miles in length between Skincuttle inlet and
Juan Perez sound, the southern portion for a distance of about 4 miles
being narrow, but gaining at the northern end an average width of IJ
miles. All parts of Burnaby strait must be navigated with great caution,
as there are many rocks, and a large portion of them are covered at high
water.

Dolomite narrows, at 2^ miles north of Skincuttlo inlet, are not
more than a quarter of a mile wide, and here the channel is crooked, and
obstructed by rocks and shoals, having from 6 to 8 feet at low water. The
tides, however, are not strong, but it cannot be recommended as a passage
for any craft larger than a boat or canoe. Just south of Dolomite narrows,
from the west side of the strait, opens Bag harbour, expanding within to a
basin nearly one mile in diameter.

The Twins. — Nearly abreast of Dolomite narrows, on Burnaby
island, are two conspicuous mountains estimated at 1,500 feet in height.

Island bay, at l ^ miles North of the narrows, extends westward,
and is 2 miles deep. It was so named from the number of small islands in
it, about 17, and is probably too rocky for a safe harbour.

Skaat harbour, at the north end of Burnaby strait, is a bay 2|
miles wide, with a depth of about .3 miles. Wanderer island and several
smaller islets lie off the entrance. The harbour turns into a narrow inlet
in its upper part, and terminates among high mountains forming a portion
of the axial chain of the islands. Skaut harbour has not been sounded or
carefully examined, but from the character of its shores it would be likely
to afford good anchorage, especially westward of Wanderer island, and if
80, it is the best for large vessels in this vicinity. The harbour will

onAP. xr.]

BUKNABY STRAIT.

493

probably be found deepest on the Wanderer island side, as there is aa
extensive field of kelp off the opposite shore.

All Alone stone and Monument rock form good marks to the northern
entrance of Burnaby strait, near which lies the entrance to the harbour.
The entrance to Skaat harbour on the southern side of Wanderer island is
very narrow ; at the angli formed between it and the shore of Burnaby
strait are two email coves affording anchorage for a small vessel, but with
wide tidal flats at their head, which a short distance beyond low-water
mark fall away rapidly into deep water.

Limestone rock is a dangerous reef, dry only at low water, but not
extensive, though a second rock, also only dry at low water, lies a short
distance south-east of it. The eastern point of Wanderer island, in lino
with that of Centre island, leads clear of Limestone rock, one mile to the
southward of the second rock.

Huxley island, at tho northern entrance of Burnaby strait, is nearly
2 miles long north and south, and about 1^ miles broad ; it is bold and
remarkable, rising rapidly from the beach to a height of 1,500 feet.
Abreast the north-west point of the island, in mid-channol, a cast of 70
fathoms was obtained, with a fine sandy bottom. At 4 miles north of
Dolomite narrows, the passage between Huxley island and the north-west
end of Burnaby island leads into Burnaby strait.

Burnaby island. — The north shore of Burnaby island, 5| miles in
length N.E. and S.W., is nearly straight on the whole, though with a few
shallow bays, one of which is called Section cove.

Alder island lies about the centre of this stretch of coast ; it Is about
half a mile in diameter, nearly flat, with probably a good anchorage behind
it, which should be approached from the north, as Saw reef runs out from
the shore of Burnaby island to the eastward, and this part of the coast is
broken and rocky, with large fields of kelp extending from it. The hills on
the north side of Burnaby island are estimated at 300 to 500 feet in
height.

SCUdder point. — From Scudder point, the north-east point of
Burnaby island, the east side of the island trends southward, allowing the
outer of the Copper islands to be seen. A considerable width of low land
stretches back from Scudder point, covered with an open growth of large
but gnarled spruces. Little beaches of coarse gravel fill the spaces between
the low shattered rock masses, apparently caused by the action of a heavy
eurf. In a cove on the north side is a strongly built but abandoned Indian
h- use. North of Granite point is a deep bay with a high island lying in
the mouth of it. "

494

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[OEA.P. XV.

JUAN PEREZ SOUND has at its entrance between the north
of Burnaby island, and Ramsay island, a width of 8 miles. The sound
extends westward, a number of smaller inlets and bays, branching off from
it, and is continued in a more northerly direction by Darwin sound, by
which it communicates with the upper ends of the long inlets which extend
westward from Laskeek bay. From the centre of a line joining the outer
entrance points to the southern entrance of Darwin sound, Juan Perez
bOund is 13^ miles in length. .; .

On its south-western side are Werner bay, Hutton inlet, and De la Beche
inlet, which terminate in narrow channels or fiords, extending among the
axial mountains of Moresby island, and which have not been examined to
their heads. From Werner hay two small inlets branch. Hutton inlet
appears to be about 3 miles long ; De la Beche nearly 6 miles, with a low
valley, hemmed in by hills on either side running north-westward from its
extremity. None of these openings seem to be well adapted for harbours,
as the shores are boiu and rocky, seldom showing beaches, and the water
to all appearances too deep for anchorage.

Bischoff islands, lying in the north-west part of Juan Perez sound
off the south side ofLyell island, are low, but densely wooded. There ia
sheltered anchorage for small craft between the two larger islands, but it
must be entered from the westward, and with much caution, owing to the
number of '^.cks and sunken reefs Avhich surround it.

Sedgwick bay, about 3 miles deep, on the south shore of Lyell
island, is too much exposed for a harbour, as southerly winds draw
directly up Juan Perez sound.

Ramsay, Murchison, and Faraday island&i are the largest

of a group of islands forming the north-east side of Juan Perez sound.

Ramsay island is 2| miles in length cast and west, has bold hills
rising in the centre, and is densely wooded. Its south shore is high,
with some rocky cliffs ; two small islets lie off the north-east side, which
is rugged and composed of solid rock. T'le north-west shore has several
coves, but none suited for anchorage.

Murchison island is 2^ miles long ; and Faraday island nearly 2 miles ;
both are low.

Between Ramsay and Murchison islands is a small group composed of
Hot Spring, House, and a few smaller islets and rocks. On the south side
of Hot Spring island is the spring from whicf it has its name. Its situation
is easily recognised by a patch of green mossy sward which can be seen
from a considerable distance ; steam also generally hovers over it. The
temperature ia so high that the hand can scarcely bear it with comfort.
The water has a slight smell of sulphuretted hydrogen, and a barely

II 11.11(111 -Ml. JIU

OHAP.xv.] JUAN PEREZ SOUND,— LTELL ISLAND.

495

perceptible saline taste. The Indians bathe in a natural pool in which
the waters of one of the streams collect.

Anchorage. — Between Hot Spring and House islands is a good
anchorage for small craft, sheltered on all sides but the north.

Tar islands. — Extending northward from the end of Murchison
island is a chain of small islands about 4 miles long, named the Tttr islands,
as the Indians report that on one of them bituminc. s matter is found,
oozing out among the stones on the beach. Agglomerate island, the
southernmost has apparently been burnt over, and is covered with standing
dead trees. These islands are only approximately placed on the chart.
Northward of them lies a single low island with a few trees on it, named
Tuft island.

Rocks dry at low water lie between Faraday and Murchison islands,
and there are several small rocky islets and J'^w-water rocks in the vicinity
of Hot Spring and House islands. »

Entering Juan Perez sound. — Vessels entering the sound had
better do so to the southward of Ramsay island, till the narrower channela
have been surveyed. No bottom was reached with 94 fathoms of line in
the centre of the sound south of Ramsay island, nor at about one mile south-
east of the extremity of BischofP island. The water is apparently deep
throughout, but it has not been sounded.

LlTEiLL ISLAND, about 15 miles in diameter east and west, and
9 miles north and south, is separated from Moreeby island by Darwin
^ sound. The island is composed of hilly land, mostly rising at once from
the shore to heights of 600 to 900 feet, and attaining towards the centre of
the island a height probably exceeding 1,000 feet. It is densely wooded,
and on the low land has some fine timber. The east coast has not been
surveyed. A tli inlet, on the north side of Lyell iblaud, has not been
examined ; it is about 3 miles deep, with two main arms, and does not
appear to bo a good harbour.

Halibut bank. — About 3 to 4 miles E.N.E. from the north-east
, point of Lyell island is Halibut bauk, with 23 fathoms wal;er on it. This
is probably the same bank H.M.S. Alert got 37 fathoms on.

iDAHli'^IN SOUND lies between Lyell island and the west shore
of Moresby island, and from its southern entrance to White point is 12
miles in length north-west and south-east ; in width it is irregular, but
it is a fine navigable channel. In the south entrance no bottom was found
at 04 fathoms. When entering from the southward, Shuttle island appeai-a
to be nearly round. The channel on its eastern side should be followed, us
this seems to be quite free from impediments. Abreast the north end of

IRK

496

QUEEN CHAELOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. XV.

Shuttle island in this channel a cast of 18 fathoms was obtained. A mile
beyond this point, and in mid-channel, is a low rock which is not readily
seen, with a second, uncovered oii'y at low water, a shor^ (distance to the
north of it.

Tides. — Tlie flood sets up Darwin sound from the southward into the
vai'ious inlets, and then eastward to the open sea again by Bichardson and
Logan inlets. The ebb in like manner draws through from end to end in
the opposite direction. The tidal stream nins at the rate of 2 knots at the
strongest.

BigSby inlet. — The south-west side of Darwin sound for 5 miles
from the south entrance is rocky and broken, with several coves and
inlets. At that distance ia Bigsby inlet, extending 2j^ miles in a westerly
direction. It is a gloomy chasm, scarcely half a mile in width, and
surrounded by mountains probably as high as any in the islanils. These
rise steeply from the water, sometimes attaining in the first instance a
height of 3,000 feet, and are in places nearly perpendicular, but are
mostly well wooded. Further back, especially to the southward and
westward, massive summits of bare granite rise to a height of 4,000 to
5,000 feet with their gorges filled with drifted snow fields. The inlet is
almost void of anything like a beach.

Shuttle island, though low, is rocky. The channel to the west of
it is probably deep enough for vessels of any class, but should not be used
until surveyed. There is a rock, covered at high water, on the west side
of its northern entrance.

ECHO HARBOUR.— At 1^ miles northward of Shuttle island,
and opposite the inner end of Richardson inlet, ia Echo harbour. The
passage into the harbour runs southward about one mile, and is surrounded
by high hills which, towards its head, riee to rugged mountains. The outer
part of the entrance has a depth of 10 fathoms in it, the sides then
approach, loivving a channel scarcely 300 yards wide b«rtween abrupt rocky
shores.

In the harbour proper the depth ia everywhere about 15 fathoms,
decreasing gradually toward the head for a short distance, and then running
steeply up to a flat which is partly dry at low water, and above high-water
mark forms a narrow grasay beach. The bottom is soil mud, and oxceilont
holding ground. A very narrow passage leads westward from the bottom
of the harbour into a secluded basin, scarcely a quarter of a mile in
diameter, which, with the exception of a channel in the middle, is nearly
dry at low water. Into its head flows a large brook, coming from the
mountains to the south-westward. i ■ .» • ; . s

wmm

CHAP. XV.]

DARWIN SOUND. — ^LASKEEK BAT.

497

KLUN KWOI BAY.— At 2 miles west of the entrance to Echo
hnrbour, the shore line falls bock in Klun kwoi bay. The bay runs up in
several arms, which have not been carefully examined, among the bases
of rugged snow-clad mountains, which rise steeply from the shores, or at
the sides of the valleys, by which the heads o2 the inlets are continued
inland. The highest peaks are probably 5,000 feet or more in altitude.
The mountains of Moresby island appear to culminate here, and are not
such a prominent feature further southward. To this part of the range
Perez's name of Sierra de San Christoval may be applied with the greatest
propriety,. The head of the bay approaches tho southern arm of Tasoo
iiarbour on the western side of Moresby island to within a couple of
miles.

CREiSCENT INLET may be considered as forming the extension
of Darwin sound northward. It turns gradually through nearlj' half a circle
from a nortb-west bearing to a direction nearly south-west, and is over

4 miles in length. It is a fiord, with steep mountains and wooded sides,
but probably not so deep as most similar inlets, as there are stretches of
beach of some length. It is not known if the Indians have any trail across
to Tasoo harbour, to which, if correctly placed, the distance across can -
not be great. Red top mountain, partly bare and about 3,000 feet high,
is the most conspicuous peak in the vicinity, rieing on the north side of the
inlet, at the angle of the bend.

LASKEIEK BAY is the name given to the wide indentation of the
coast between the north-east extreme of Lyell island and Vertical point,
the south-eaat point of Louise island, bearing N.W. and S.E. from each
other, and 10 miles apart. From Laskeek bay four large inlets extend
westward ; of these the two southern, Richardson and Logan inlets, open
into the head of Darwin sound.

The two northern inlets, Dana and Selwyn, communicate at their heads
with the head of Cumshewa inlet to the northward.

RichardSOll inlet is about 1 1 miles in length in a W.S.W, and
E.N.E. direction, with an average breadth of 1^ miles, and is straight,
with moderately bcld shores. Tho southern side is formetl by Lyell island,
A tli inlet being just within the entrance, and Dog Island about

5 miles within it. Kun ga, Tan oo, and Inner islands, from east to
west, form tho northern side. Kun ga island is about 1,500 feet high,
and forms a good mark for the entrance ; there is a low rocky reef some
distance eastward of the outer point of Kun ga, and u second off the
ftouth shore of the same island. Nea'- Dog island there are several small
islets and rocks ; and at about 3 J miles wst of it, on the south side of
the inlet, is a cove, where a small vessel can find a convenient anchorage,

A 17499. II

498

QUEEN CHAELOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. XV.

probably the nearest stopping place toLaskeek village. The channels between
Kun ga and Tan oo and the latter and Inner islands are probably deep,
though the first should be navigated with caution, and care taken to avoid
the east end of Tan oo island, as several rocks and patches of kelp lie off it.
Laskeek or Klue Indian village is situated on the eastern extremity of
Tan 00 island. It is one of the most populous still remaining m the Queen
Charlotte islands.* The village, extending round a rocky point, faces two
yaws, which prevents its being wholly seen from any one point of view. The
western end of Richardson inlet is contracted to a width of about a quai'ter
of a mile, and obstructed by a smaU island and several rocks.

The Tide runs through this passage with considerable strength, and
it is unsuited as an approach to Echo harbour, though the most direct way
in from the sea. .. ,- y i:. /' ■ ';■::;''' "-v, >-; " vj^y'rvf^

Logan inlet is about 7 miiea in length, and nearly parallel to
Richardson inlet, with Flower Pot island, a small bold rock, covered with
trees, off its mouth. One other small island lies close to the shore on its
southern sida, but it is otherwise free from obstructions, and constitutes a
fine navigable channel, the best approach to Echo hatbonr. - > : .■-■■. .

Vessels should enter to the north of Flower Pot island, and keep in the
centre of the channel. Kun ga island, as already mentioned, is high.
Ti tul island, small and with low limestone cliffn, lies northwar-d of it.
Tan 00 and Inner islands are also l»old, rising to rounded hills of nearly
uniform height of about 800 feet. They have some good gi-aveUy beaches,
thoui^b mostly rocky. . , ," ' " "\

Timber. — In the inlets in the vicinity of Lyell island there is i' cjn-
siderable quantity of fine timber, trees of great stature growing in all
moderately level and sheltered places.

Dana inlet funs about S.W. by W. nearly 8 miles, with bold shbres ;
at its entrance is Ileimot island, small, rocky, high, and of rounded form.
A second small island is near it, and from most points of view the channel
between the two is not seen, and care is necessary not to mistake this island
for Flower Pot island, at the entrance to Logan inlet. At its western
extremity Daua inlet turns northward, communicating by a narrow but
apparently deep passage with Selwyu inlet, and thus cutting off Tal im kwan
island from Moresby island.

* U.M.S. Alert anchored off thiH village in 11 fathoniB, about 3 cablcB cast of the
village. ThJa anchorage is Tiot c good ' ue, being exposed to N. W. and B.E. winds, and
is steep clote-to. Oc BDchoring, the houses should not be brought to bear south of West,
as patck ' of rock stretch out two-thirds the distance across to the opposite short) from
Laskeck potnt,80 that going or nomiog from the north the cast nhore should be kept well on
board, it being steep-to and quite safe. In the sehson, kelp markt> 'he patches.— Navigating
Lieutenant A. F. Boxer, 1860.

CHAP. XV.]

SELWYN INLET. 3 .»

499

Tal un kwan island is 8 miles long, and 2 miles broad ; the hills are
rounded in form, and from 800 to 900 feet high.

SELWYN INLET* '» nearly parallel to Dana inlet and about 10
miles iu length, and near its Lead, turning northward, runs in that direction
for a like distance, forming at high water a passage for canoes into the
upper part of Cumshewa in'et, and separates Louise island from the main '
shore. The passage is uar 'ow and walled in on both sides by momitains
which rise very steeply from It. Entrance island is small and hes off the
north entrance point with a low rock about one mile eastward of it. With
the exception of a small rock about the middle of Tal un kwan island and
near the south shore, the inlet appears to be free from dangers.

Alter giving the islets oft* the north entrance a wide berth, a vessel should
keep the north shore for u distance of 5 miles until the entrance of Rock-fish
harbour is reached.

Rock-fish, harbour is formed by a boot-shaped projection of low
land, at the angle of Selwyn inlet, and extends in a W.S.W. direction
for about 1^ miles, with a width of half a mile, and an average depth of
15 fathoms. It is a secure and well sheltered anchorage, more easily
entered than Cumshewa.

The head of the west branch of Selwyn inlet cannot be more that 9 or
10 miles from Mitchell or Gold harbour (on the west coast), as a low valley
runs some distance westward. At about 3 miles from the entrance of the
passage leading to Cumshewa is the opening to an inlet about 3 miles deep
in a south-west direction, approaching to within 4^ miles of Mitchell
harbour. These upper arms of Selwyn inlet are environed by high and
rujged mountains.

Reef and Low islands are situated in the outer part of Laskeek
bay. The southern and first named is steep along the water's edge, and a
reef rims off about half a mile to the southward from it. Their exact
position is not known. ,'.....•

LOUISE ISLAND is about 15 miles long east and west, and
8 miles broad, with high mountains, and doubtless the snow on them lasts
throughout the summer. From Selwyn inlet the east coast of the islnr.-^
trends north-eastward 8 miles, with several small bays, fully o^en to the sea,
and mostly rocky.

Vertical point, the northern entrance point of Laskeek bay, projects
at about half-way along this stretch of shore, and is remarkable from the
ebape of the beds of grey limestone of which it is composed, aggregating

♦ See Admiralty plan :— SeJwj-n inlet on sheet of Porta in Quceu Charlotte islands,
Ko. 2,168 ; scale, m » 0-5 of an inch.

II 2

600

QUEEN CHAELOTl'E ISLA'TDS.

[chap. XT,

at least 400 feet ia thickness. North of the point are the two small Lime-
stone islands, behind which the tide, running southward along the coast,
forms a race on the ebb.

Skedans bay, about 2 miles from the entrance to Cumshewa, is
strewn with sunken rocks and fully open, and should on no account be
entered by vessels. A large stream enters its head, which can be seen at
some distance inland forming a high waterfall, and which, according to the
Indians, flows out of a lake of some size, high among the mountains.
Skedans village forms a semi-circle round the head of a small bay or cove,
very rocky, which indents the south side of a narrow isthmus, connecting
two remarkable nipple-shaped hills with the main shore. This peninsula
is situated at the south entrance point to Cumshewa inlet, and between
it and the Skedans islands, the tide forms a race. Skedans islands distant
3 J miles from the shore, are low and covered with trees.*

CUMSHEWA INLETt is a Jong inlet extending about 15 miles
westward, with a prolongation southward connecting it with S'jlwyn inlet.
It differs in the low character of the land on its northern shore from the
inlets to the south, and marks the junction, on the east coast of ihe islands,
of the mountain region and flat country. There is more beach blong the
shores than in the southern inlets, and wide tide-flats, indicating .^shoaler
water, which is not only found in the inlet itself, but extends off" the coast.
Towards the head of the inlet, the shores are quite bold in some places,
and the water probably deep.

In the entrance of Cumshewa inlet, to the north of Skedans islands are
depths of 20 fathoms, with a shell and gravel l)ottom. Off the north point of
entrance, Cumshewa island, a small barren rock, and the Cumsheva rocks,
extend in a south-easterly direction nearly 1^ miles. A vessel coming
from the north should, therefore, keep well off the shore till the rocks are
passed, and then stand in to the entrance in a north-westerly direction.
On the outer point near Cumshewa island are the ruins of on a^xindoned
village.

Kin gui island, just within the north entrance point, on the north side
of the inlet, is covered with dead trees, and can be recognisci easily. At
about one mile within the entrance, an extensive shoal, on which the sea
breaks heavily, runs off from the south shore, leaving a channel about half
a mile wide between it and the north shore of the inlot. The passage in is
through this channel, in which it is reported there are depths of 7 and

* H.M.S. Alert vhen on her passage from Loskeek Tillage to Cumshewa inlet passed
inside the isLinds to the northward. — NaTigating Lieutenant A. F. Boxer.

■^ Sef Admiralty plan :— Cumshewa inlet, on sheet of Ports in Queen Charlotte islands,
No. 3,)fi8 ; scale, m « 0*5 of an inch.

»imwii,P5»wj mm'

I"-"**}*"

CBAF. ZV.]

CTIMSHEWA INLET. — SKIDEGATE INLET.

501

8 fathoms. The southern point of a peninsula which projects from tie
northern shore of the inlet, bearing S. 88° W., just clears the northern edge
of the shoal. A few patches of the shoal dry at low water, but the greater
part is indicated only by the kelp which grows thickly on it during the
summer. The tides run strongly in the mouth of the inlet. . '

McKay cove. — within the narrows, on the north shore, in a cove,
where a small house for the purpose of trade was built, but is now aban-
doned. The shore dries out for some distance at low water, but off it
a small vessel may find a pretty secure anchorage, though the tide sweeps
round the cove.

Cumshewa village is also situated on the north side of the inlet,
about one mile westward of McKay cove, the houses being built along
the shore of a bay facing south eastward, 3^ miles within the entrance.
A small rocky islet, connected with the main at low water, lies off it.

Anchorage. — The best anchorage for a large vessel is probably to be
found on the south side, nearly opposite the peninsula before alluded to,
and abreast a st>'etch of low land, eastward of a stream.

The COAST. — From the entrance to Cumshewa inlet, the coast runs
north-westward to Spit point, the south point of Skidegate inlet, a distance
of 17 miles. It is indented by two considerable .bays. Copper bay — the
northern — about 5 miles from Spit point, received its name from some
copper worKs which were carried on there at one time. The land is low,
and very different in appearance from that of the coast southward. The pro-
jecting points are mostly low and flat, and formed of gravel deposits. With
the change in the character of the land, the beach becomes flat, and shoal
water extends far off shore, the depths shoaling from 10 fathoms at 3 miles
off Cumshewa island, to 6 and 7 fathoms at 7 miles off Spit point. Near
Cumshewa the beaches are almost entirely composed of boulders, but show
more gravel and sand toward Skidegate. The surface of the country is
densely wooded with trees of large size. .

Cape ChrOUStcheflT,* 2 miles to the southward of Spit point,
should not be passed nearer than 5 miles ; the cape^is low and dark-lookino'.
Coming from the southward, it shows very conspicuous ; when abreast of
it, Spit point, the low south point of Skidegate, becomes visible.

SKIDEGATE INLET,t separating Moresby from Graham island,
forms a spacious harbour communicating with the Pacific at Buck point,
south of Cartwright sound, by an intricate channel, only navigable for
canoes a portion of the way. Skidegate inlet from its entrance extends in
a south-westerly direction for about 9 miles from the Bar rocks, where it

* Navigating Lieutenant A. F. Boxer, H.M.S. Alert.

t See Admiralty plan : — Skidegate inlet, No. 48; scale, m — 1*0 inch. Information
by Navigating Liauteuant D. Pendar, in charge of the Admiralty Survey, 1866.

602

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. XV.

contracts to a width of 1^ miles between Image point and Flowery islet on
the north side of AUiford bay. Within these points it opens again, forming ,
two expansions, separated by Maude island. That part of the northern
expansion eastward of Lina island forms Bear Skin bay ; the part west-
ward of the island has several islands in it, with Anchor cove in the
western end. Beyond Anchor cove it turns north-west, forming Long
Arm ; the total length of the iulet from Bar rocks to the head of Long
Arm being about 21 miles. The southern expansion forms South bay, in
which is South island, its western side passing into Skidegate channel and
thence to the Pacific. ...

The shore of Skidegate inlet are not so bold as those of the fiords to
the south, and are mostly fringed with a beach of greater or less width.
The surrounding country is densely wooded, and where the land is flat,
timber of magnificent growth is found. This inlet would be convenient in
many respects as a site for saw-mills.

Spit point is low and wooded, and composed of sand deposits, which,
extending northward, form the bar which stretches across the entrance to
Skidegate inlet.

The bar or spit, with from one to 3 fathoms water on it, extends in a
north-westerly direction for about 9^ miles to within nearly Ij^ miles of Lawn
point, the northern point of entrance. The spit slopes off very gradually
seaward, while toward the inlet it rapidly deepens to 20 oi 30 fathoms. • •'

Bar rocks, on the outer edge of the spit, 2^ miles from its extremity,
are two in number; the western one dries 5 feet, and lies 6| miles
N.W. I N. from Spit point ; the outer or eastern rock dries one foot at ■
low Avater and bears N.W. | N. the same distance from Spit point »
4 cables N.E. by E. from the inner rock ; and 3 miles N.E. ^ E. from
Dead Tree point. The sea does not always break on these rocks. Lawn
point, bearing W. J N., leads to the northward of Bar rocks.

The Bar rocks are situated in latitude 53° 22' 45" N., longitude
131° 50' 20" W.

Lawn point* is generally green, with a small sand cliff and a large
boulder in front of it ; a hill 500 feet high rises immediately to the west-
ward of the point. The coast southward of Lawn point is flat for 10 miles
to Village bay, and is covered .with standing dead trees.

Dead Tree point, H miles to the southward of Lawn point, is a
projecting part of the coast, but otherwise is not conspicuous.

Village islands, in front of village bay, form good marks for
Skidegate inlet ; the northerfi one (Bare islet), 125 feet high, is almost
bare, and the other (Tree islet), having trees upon it, is 153 feet high.

* Lawu point is not easy to distinguish when the grass is dried up, and Dead Treo'
point can only be seen as a tangent when on a north or south bearing. — Navigating
Lieuteua:at E. S. Clapp, B,JH., H.M.S. Scout, August 1872.

OOiF. ZV.]

SKIDEGATE INLET. ■ J',)

503

' The village of Skidegate, nearly half a mile in le) gth, is situated in the
bay, off which are the Village islands, and consists of many houses, with
the usual carved posts, fronting the beach. '" '"* • '•i.'.m'i ;■ • '? ■•';. r

Village bay is a good stopping place ; anchorage may be taken up
between Bare islet and the beach in 14 fathoms. It is, however, exposed
to S.E. winds. Should one of these gales spring up, good shelter will be
found in AUiford bay.

Image point. — in the cove at Image point some rude buildings have
been erected in connection with the dog-fish fishery, and in 1878 some
persons were engaged in it. The trees in the vicinity are chiefly Menzies
spruce, yielding a white wood of moderately fine grain. .it ,•,, ';

Alliford bay, on the south side of the entrance, is an excellent
anchorage, with good holding ground, in about 9 fathoms. The passage
between Flowory islet and the North point of the bay, should not be used.
Wood and water may be obtained.

Anchor cove,* situated 10^ miles from Village islands on the north
side of the inlet, affords anchorage in 5 fathoms. This is the place of
export for the anthracite coal, found on both shores of the inlet, but
principally on the sides of mount Seymour, one mile to the northward of
the cove. The coal has been mined, a small railway being laid to Anchor
cove.t

- Observation spot, on North point, Anchor cove, is situated in
latitude 53° 12' 31" N., longitude 132° 14' 19" W.

' Slate CbUCk brook is the largest stream in Skidegate inlet, its
mouth being about one mile north of Anchor cove. The brook receives its
name from a quarry a few miles up its course, where the Indians obtain the
dark shaly material from which they make carvings. In former years com-
munication used to be kept up with the head of Masset inlet to the north
by means of this stream, part of the distance being accomplished in canoe
and part on foot. • .

Leading island, 3^ miles southward of the bare Village island,
forms the western part of Alliford bay at the southern entrance to Skide-
gate inlet ; it is 400 feet high and appears round.

Maude island, &t. the junctiou of the north and south expansions of
the inlet, is nearly 4 miles long, S.W. and N.E., 1^ miles broad, and
1,260 feet high. On the west end of the island the Indians belonging

* See plan : — Anchor cove on Adminilty chart, No. 48 ; scale, m = 12 inches,
t Cowgjtz coal mine u ahout a mile in a N.N.E. direction from Anchor core.

The

Queen Charlotte Coal Mining Company was formed in 1 865 to open up the deposits of
anthracite which had been discovered here, and abandoned in 1872. In 1869 about 800
tons of coal were extracted, and a portion of it shipped to Victoria.

504

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[CU^F. XV.

lo Gold harbour (on the west coast) have established a village, on ground
purchased from the Skidegate Indians. The Gold harbour Indians still
preserve their rights over that region, and live there much of the
summer but find it more convenient to have their permanent houses near
Skidegate.

SKIDEGATE CHANNEL extends from South bay for 15 miles
to the Pacific. From South bay to Log point, a distance of 8^ miles,
the channel is contracted, particularly in the East and West narrows,
the former in one part being only 200 feet wide, and the latter 2 cables.
The tides from east and west meet about the East narrows, running
through the channel with great strength, probably 5 knots in several
places. The narrows must be passed at slack water of high tide, which
lasts for a very short time, so that both narrows cannot be got through in
one tide.

Directions. — A deep channel into Skidegate inlet may be found
northward of Bar rock spit by steering for Lawn point on a S.W. bearing
until within about a mile of the point, when the water will deepen to 15 or
20 fathoms ; from this point a general S.S.E. cours<6 may be steered, paying
great attention to the soundings, until the west side of Leading island
comes in line with the east side of Bare island, bearing South.

* From the north-eastward Lawn point makes like a blutF sloping towards
the north. Large ships should bring Lawn point to bear S.W". and steer
for it ; the water will gradually shoal from 10 and 12 fathoms at 4 miles
off, to 5 and 4^ fathoms at about one mile from the point, when' it suddenly
deepens to 12 and 20 fathoms. From this position, Welcome point, which
appears as a low and grassy patch under Table mountain (but is difficult to
distinguish), should bear S. by E. ^ E. If it dofs not, bring it ou that
bearing and exactly in line with the left tangent of the highest part of
Table mountain. This will lead in between the Bar rock spit and the
shoal extending from Lawn point to Dead True point, and up to the leading
marks. This course will lead very close to the north-west point of the
Bar rock spit, if not over the extremity of it in 3 fathoms at low water
The deep portion of the channel from opposite Lawn point till past the
north-west point of Bar rock spit (or until the Boulder at Lawn point bears
W. by N.) is only one-third of a mile wide ; attention to the lead and
steering, with a sharp look out, is therefore necessary, for, as previously
remarked, Welcome point is not readily distinguished.

The west side of Leading island, in line with the east side of Bare Village
island bearing South,! leads over t'ie Bar rock spit, to the northward of

* NaTigating Lieutenant A. W. Miller, H.M.S. Amethyst, August 1876.
f Sit View on Admiralty chart, No. 48-

cuAf . zr.]

SKIDEGATE CHANNEL.— THE COAST.

505

the rocks, in 15 feet at low water, from whence the depth is from 20 to 30
fathoms to Village islands ; passing to the southward of these islands
anchorn<;e may be found in the north-east side of Bear Skin bay in
12 fatl )m9, or, to gain shelter from a south-east gale, AUiford bay is
recommended.

Coasting vessels with local knowledge use a passage with 3^ fathoms
over the spit, about one mile soutli of the Bar rocks (when they are
visible), by keeping Dead Tree point bearing W.S.W. until the leading
mark comes on.

Approaching Skidegate inlet the water should not bo shoaled under
6 fathon s at low water until Lawn ix)int bears S.W. or the leading marks
are on.

Tides. — It is high water, at full and change, in Skidegate inlet at I h. ;
springs rise 17 feet, neaps 14 feet.

The COAST. — From Lawn hill, near Lawn point at the entrance of
Skideg.ite, to llose point, the north-oast extreme of Graham island, the
distance is about 48 miles. The coast line is straight and open, with no
harbour, and scarcely a creek or protected cove for canoes or boats for long
distances. The beach is gravelly and sometimes stony to the Tl ell river
beyond this it is mostly sandy to Rose point. For many miles northward
cliffs of clay and sand are found alongshore, and for about 17 miles north-
ward of Tl ell river these frequently rise into cliffs 50 to 1 fX) feet in height.
North of the range of cliffs the shore is almost everywhere bordered by
sand-hills, which are covered with coarse grass, beach pea, &c., and would
afford fine grazing for cattle. Behind these are woods, in some places
burnt, and the trees generally scrubby. This part of the coast is also
characterised by lagoons, and is evidently extending seaward, by tlie
banking up of the sand under the action of the sea. The largest la^-oon
opens out at cape Fife about 6 miles to the southward of Rose point,
extending southward for some miles, and is reported by the Indians to
communicate with a second further inland. The mouth of this lagoon
forms a safe harbour for boats or canoes at high water, but is nearly dry at
low water.

The coast between Skidegate and Rose point having dangerous liats
extending off it, which have not been examined, should be given a berth of
6 or 7 miles, and the lead kept constantly going whilst running alon" it,
the depths varying from 9 to 11 fathoms.

TL ELL RIVER enters the sea at 10^ miles north of La^n point,
and is a stream of some size. For about 3 miles above its mouth it runs
nearly parallel to the shore, setMirated from the sea by a low swampy strip
of land only about half a mile in breadth. This land is of comparatively

50G

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[OHAP. XV,

modern formation, being compoaed of nand and gravel, and is peitly covered
witli spruce trees of no great size. A ruined Indian liouuu standH about
8 miles uouth of the mouth of the river. The water of the river is of u
dark coffee or amber colour.

Cape Ball (Kul tow sis), nearly 20 miles from Skidcgate bar, is
very conspicuouH, having u remarkable white cliff on it, with lower cliffs
on both sides ; it cannot be mistaken. The Indians report that at very
low tides patches of clay dry a long way off from the cape. In the bay
North of cape Hall are the remains of an Indian village.

Rook' — A rock with 2 fathoms on it, lies about U miles East from
capo Ball.*

Cape Fife. — Near this cape on some parts of the shore magnetic iron
sand in abundant, with numerous colours of gold in it. There is anchorage
off the cape with off-shore winds ; in this neighbourhooil the lead must be
most carefully attended to. .. y^< x' -i"

ROSE POINT, the north extreme of the Princess Charlotte islands,
so named by Douglas in 1788, is known to the Ilaida Indians as Nai koon,
or long nose. It is a remarkable low promontory, apparently formed
by the meeting of the currents and waves from the southward and west-
ward round this corner of the island. The inner part of Rose point, near
cape Fife, does not differ from the low wooded coast to the south ; the
Indians say there are many lakes and swamps inland. Further out, where
the point is narrower and more exposed, it is clothed with small stunted
wood, which in turn give place to waving grass-covered sand-hills. Beyond
this the narrow gravelly point is covered above high-water mark with
heaps of drifting sand, and great quantities of bleached timber, logs, and
stumps, piled promiscuously together. The apex of the point is a narrow
steep-sided gravelly bank, which extends for a long distance at low water.

A dangerous spit extends off Rose point in n north-easterly direction,
for, it is said, a distance of nearly 5 miles, but its exact extent has
not been ascertained. f The point should, therefore, especially in dark or
thick weather, be given a wide berth. Several vessels have been lost on
Rose point, which is a dangerous and treacherous point to round at any
time, except in fine clear weather, and many Indians have been drowned
there on different occasions.

Captain R. Bnmdige remarks : — " I examined Hose Spit and found a
•' strong current of about 2 knots. This spit or sand-bank extends out

*■ Captain McNeill, of the Hudson Bay Company's service.

t H.M.S. Rocket struck soundings in 7 futhous ut least 3 miles irom the end of the
spit, over which the xeu was breaking heavily, and which has four or five sandy hillook*
on it.— Lieutenant C. U. Ncdbam, U.^., H.M.8. Rocket, 1873.

CUXT, XV.]

B08B POINT. — HECATE 8TEAIT.

507

*' about 4 or 5 miles, with boulders and timboiB, or largo trooti buried in
'* the sand. Soundings were found to bo gradual, from 40 fathoms down
" to 5 fathoms close alongside ; also gooil even sounding all the way to
" MusNet with sandy bottom. Ships could anchor under Invisible point
" in a south-easterly gale in 5 to 8 fathoms." i n/r; -.n.t. < v t '

Rose point is situated in latitude 54^ U' 30" N., longitude 131° 36' W.

HECATE STRAIT, between the Princess Charlotte group and the
mainland of British Columbia, is 75 miles wide at its souther u entrance,
gradually narrowing to 25 miles between Hose Spit (Graham island), and
tho 13utterworth rocks on the eastern side of the strait. In the fairway
of the south-east part of Hecate strait the water is deep. From Skidegate
across to within 10 miles of the mainland, in a north-east direction,
the depths are from 8 to 25 fathoms ; in somo cases, grooving kelp
was passed through by the surveying vessel Beaver (1866) in 8 and
13 fathoms.

With the centre of Zayas island bearing N. by W. ^ W., and the
north extreme of Stephens island £. by N. J N., tho depth is 15 fathoms.
This bank of soundings was found very useful on one occasion, during a
strong breeze from the south-east, with thick weather, when II. M.S. Virago
anchored on it and remained until it cleared up, and the land became
visible.

Northward of a line drawn from Skincuttlc inlet, across the strait to
Banks island, the depth does not exceed 100 fathoms, and is generally much
less. A similar shallow area borders Graham island to the north, and it is
also probably comparatively shallow for tome distance off the west coast of
the northern part of the same island. From tho vicinity of Masset a bunk
of sand not exceeding 20 fathoms extends to tho north and east, trending
with Rose Spit, and on the east side of the island extending towards
Cumshewa, its eastern margin reaching the middle part of Hecate strait.
The average depth of water is from 7 to 10 fathoms, but there are much
shoaler parts. This bank was named Dogfish bank by Ingraham in 1791.
Near its eastern edge he places, in latitude 53° 50' and about 30 miles S.E.
(true) from Invisible point, a rock or shoal on which the ship Margaret
struck in 1792 drawing 13 feet. Near the spotho notes 3 fathoms, deepening
to 5, 7, and 12 fathoms eastward.

Shoal.— In lat. 53" 26' N., long. 131° 6' W., approximate, a shoal has
been reported, but its position is doubtful.

Tides. — i" Hecate strait, the flood tide sets to the northward. In
Dixon entrance, the flood coming from the westward round North island,
sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for Brown passage,
spreading for about 15 miles round Rose point, towards cape Ibbetson
(Edye psssago), where it meets the flood from the southward ; consequently

508

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap, XV.

between Rose point, cape Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence south-eafit 15 or
20 miles, the tides are irregular.

The direction and rate of the tidal streams are not regular, being greatly
influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength.
Time of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m.

Between cape Murray, Peroy point, and Znyas island the tides are the
strongest nnd most in'cgular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much
80, that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.

ROSE POINT to MASSET SOUND.— The shore between
these two places forms a bay 22 miles in width. With the exception of a
few small rocky points, the beach is smooth and regular, and almost
altogether composed of sand, with gravel in some places, sloping steeply
above the ordinary high- water mark. Low sand-hills generally form a
border to the woods which densely cover the land. The water is shoal far
off the shore, especially at 15 miles from Rose point, and on approaching
Masset sound, where kelp forms wide fields at a great distance from the
beach. In the north-east part of the bay there is anchorage with ofif-shoro
winds.

Hi ellon river, ot 9 miles south-west" urd from Rose point, is a
stream of some size, which is frequented by great numbers of salmon in
the autumn. Its mouth forms a good boat harbour. On its east bank are
tl'.o ruirs of an Indian village, nnd on its west. Tow hill, an eminence
remarkable in this low country, facing the sea with n steep clifE 200 feet
high, composed of columnar volcanic rocks on one side, while the other
slopes more gra*lually.

MASSET HARBOUR* is nUhor more than 22 miles S.W, ^ S.
from Rose point, and should be approached by vessels with caution ; the
entrance is between a low point with a ledge of rocks covered with kelp,
extending half a mile from it on the wosteni side, and the point of a long
spit partly dry (the surf usually breaking the whole length of it) on the
eastern, the passage between having an extensive bar.

Just inside and round the eastei-n point of inner entrance is a pretty
bay, with a beach, containing the principal village (Ut te was), oft" the
centre of wliich there is anchorage in 10fathom.s. At this part the width of
the harboTtr is nearly 2 miles, a large sand-bank filling up its western side.
The ebb tide runs very strong, making this by no means a good
anchorage.

♦ See Admiralty plan : — Ma«»ei harbour, on Hheet of Portu in ()uc«n Charlotte isiimds,
No. 2,168 ; locale, m => 1*75 inches. Tbin plan, however, must b<! usc<l with caution, an it
ha^ 1>ecn rvportcd defective. In 1852 the Indiauii beloogingto this place Rclzed, plundered,
and burnt an American «chooner, the master and crew being Hpnred through the influence
of the chief Edensaw.

CHAP. XT.]

MA3SBT HABBOni AND SOTJNP.

509

In 1878 Iho Hudson Bay Company had a post at Ut te WM, the only
one on the ielauds ; the Church IMi.ssionary Society alno had a station here
which had been established two years. About one mile south of this pla^c,
also on theeAst shore, is a second village, and on the opposite side a third.
They are all decaying, and have comparatively ft'W inhabitants. Masset
must sit one time have been a populous place.

Masset is a bar-harbour with not less than 5 fathoms, and is easy to
approach. I found goo<l sounding all along the coast, and had 30 fathoms
about eight miles oif f'lorc when the lead dropped into deep water. This
whole coast m free • om rocks, with a beautiful sand beach, and the
current is not more than 1^ knots. — Keport of Captuin Brundige.

drOCtions. — with the outer western point bearing VV. by N. one
mile, the depth is 5 fathoms at low water ; from this position the course
in is about S. by E. ^ E., the depths over the bar varying from 5 to 3
fathoms, for about 3 miles, to abreast a villagf; on the western shore, a
little more than one mile from what may be termed the inner or proper
entrance to the harbour ; the water then suddenly deeptjus to 9 and 1 1
fathoms, the channel lying in the direction of the eastern point of what
has been called the inner entrance, and the depth, at about 2 cables
from the beoch that forms it, being from 10 to 13 fathoms. A i^afe
mark for going in to the outer anchorage is a small islet inside the
channel in line with the outer eastern point bearing S.p]. j^ E., or if the
islet cannot be seen, a point will be seen open on that bearing. With winds
from seaward the outer anchomge is uncomfortable owing to the tide
keeping the ship swung across the swell.*

The land in tlie vicinity of Masset harbour is all low, no hills being
visible.f It is for the most part den-^ely timbered with tine spruce troe?»,
but there are reports of prairi»3s in the intei'ior, which may not improbably
be swamps. At 3 miles up the sound, a lagoon or arm runs off on the cast
side. At this place the land attains an elevation of 100 feet or more,
spreading back in a flat or gently undulating plain ut this level. Nearly
opposite this ploee, on the west side is Mmist Island, which appears to have
given its name to the entire inlet. It lies across u bay, which seems at first
sight to offer l>etter anchorage than that already veft.rred to. The island is
low and sandy, and a great part of the bay or piissage behind it is dry at
low water.

MASSET SOUND, f»'OT»i 'ts neaward entrance to the point at which
it expands to Mtu-set inlet, is 19 miles long, and about one mile in average
width, and, though slightly tortuojis, preserves nearly the parallelism of its

* Lieutenant K. L. Lang, U.S., 11. M.S. Mutint, 19S3.

t The Hudi«on ilay Company's cHttle buvo kept themaelve*, grazing on ilip open raod-
liiUii in the vicinity of the coast, requiriug no :'.ttentiou, summer or winter.

510

QT7EEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[OH*.r. XT.

Hides. The depth, ascertnineti in a few pliices, vainea from 10 to 12
fathoms. A number of small streams flow into it, most of which, according
to Indian reports, have their sources in small lakes. On the ejistern side,
at 4^ miles from the southern or inner end of the sound, where its trend
is nearly sontli-west and i.orth-east, a narrow passage runs off soatliwnrd,
joining the expanded portion of Massot inlet, and forming a large
island, which is mostly lower than the surrounding country. This
passage is partly dry at low water, and is occasionally used by the Indians
in canoes.

At its southern end, the narrow part of the inlot, which has been called
the sound, expands suddenly to iv great sheet of inland water, 17 miles in
length oast and west, and in its broadest part 5^ miles. This, to the north-
ward and eastward, is bounded by continuous low wooded land; and to the
west and south by hills, rising in the distance to mountains, rounded in
form and about 1,5()0 feet higli.* The northern and southern shores are of
oven contour, and often bordered by wide shoals covered with )<oul<U»rs.
The western half of the inlet is studde*! with islands, and it is rather
irregular in outline, forming four large bays or inlets with intervening
mountainous points. The shores here arc steep, with narrow l>ouldcr
betuihes sloping down at once into deep water. About the heads of the
inlets, and near tiie mouths of streams only, arc small Hi'cas of flat irround
found. Of these inlets, that which reaches furthest 8c>>ith)vard is called by
the Indians Tin in ow e.

TSOO skEtli. — On the south side of Masset inlet, .'5 miles from its
eastern extremity, is a narrow passage, the mouth of which is partly l>locked
by islands, but which loads into a second great inlet known by the Indians
as Tsoo skatii, or " the belly of the if.pid." The largest of the i-'nn-!:: in
this passage is named Slip a ti a. Kelp grows abundantly ir. the channel
on both sides of the islands, which therefore cannot be very deep. The
tide runs through them with great velocity, especially at olb, when in the
western channel it forms a true rapid, with much broken wa»«r.

Tsoo skatii is 9^ miles in length, and from one to 2 miles in width. Its
eastern side is formed of low land, while its south-western extremity is u
long tiord-like inlet. In this inlet are many islands ; the largest,
Has keious, is nearly one mile in diamctor and about 200 feet high. The
eastern portion of the south shore is rocky, with many small islets off
it. On the eastern side of Tsoo skatii, 2^ miles from its extremity, is
Tow us tns in, a remarkable hill with a steep olifTon one side. The north*
eastern part of Tsoo skatii has a depth of from 10 to 16 fathoms. The

* The natives in 1859 stated that severiil voarR ago ships (some hitvin^r thro* miistt)
i.«c4 to H'lchor liere ; . <d that in August halibut and salmon fill th« wholo place, while
ducks and gocKC fill the air.

CHAP. XT.]

M ASSET SOUND.

511

depth of tliG north-western part, nbout the centre between the large island
and the mainland, was 23 fathoms in one place. That of the south-western
arm is probably greater.

' "Ya koiin river. — Many streams flow into these inlets ; the largest
is probal)ly that which is known as Ya koun, and enters the south-ea'tern
corner of Masset inlet, in the bottom of a shoal bay. About the mouth
of the Ya koun are largo sandy flats, dry at low water. It was formctly
navigable for small canoes a long way up, and is reported to head in
a loTge lake. This is the stream mentined as forming a portion of the
disused route from Masset to Skidegate.* On the west side of the bay
at the mouth of this river are a few small houst^s, used during the salmon
season.

ThO Ma min river joins the Tsoo skatli inlet at its east "nd, and
has a wide delta flat about its mouth. It is navigable by email canoes tor
several miles, but is much obstructed by logs.

The Awun river, some miles west of the entrance to Tsoo skatli,
may not be large ; it is said to rise in a lake.

AiU I'iver, e'jtering Masset inlet from the north-west, is an important
stream. T'-oro are several Indian houses which are occupied in the
summer above its mouth. It is ?aid to flow out of a very large fresh-water
lal;e of the same name, the river itself being short. The lake is filled with
idlauds, and in the winter is fi'ozcn completely over.

Tides. — The rise of a spring tide at the entrance of Maskct sound
was estimated at about 14 feet, but, owing to the length of the narrow
sound, Masset inlet has a tide of from 8 to 10 feet only ; and the second or
T8<>o skatli still less, about G feet. On one occasion, it was high water at
the entrance of Masset sound at Ih. 15m. p.m., while in the narrow
entrance to Tsoo skatli, 23^ miles distant, the flood had just caused a
reversal of the current at Oh. 20m. Owing to the great expansion of the
upper part of Masset inlet the tide continues to run up opposite Masset for
about 2^ hours ul'ter it is falling by the shore, whilst the el)b runs out for
about 3 hours after the water has begun to rise on the bctich.

MASSET to VIRAGO SOUND.~The coast between these
two places is everywhere low and wooded, with occasional open grassy
spaces, differing from the coast east of Mosset, in lmi\g rocky or covered
with b:.iiidcrfl. No wide sandy bays occur, and the points are mostly of
dark low rocks. The trees along the ahoro are not of great size and are
int«rsperf<ed with occasional grassy spaces.

* Accordiiiff to Indian ucooiint the (listuuce to bo travcrtied ou fitot, after proci-etling
lip the riror at far as poHHiblc, is ahi>at half a day'it journey, acfOM A mouDtaiuous ueck
of laud, from the summit of which both harbours nan be «e«n.

Hani

512

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. XV.

The water is shoal far off shore, with wide fields of kelp. The shore
should be approached with caution, with the lead constantly going.

In a N.N.E. ^ E. direction from the east point of Virago sound, there
are soundings for several miles ; at 8 miles the depth was 52 fathoms, sand ;
at 5 miles off, the depths were about the same ; at 2 miles there were
28 fathoms, sand, and the wat«r then gradually shoaled in to the shore. In
Jtriy 1853, great quantities of drifl kelp were passed through.

All0h.Or&g6S. — Between Masset harbour and Virago sound, which
lies about 10 miles to the westward, there ai*e some good anchorages, in
which a vessel might remain a night instead of kecjting under way, or
cruising about with a south-cast vyind, and thick weather.

VIRAGO SOUND,* constituting the entrance to Nnden harbour
is 3^ miles wide between its outer points, capes Edensaw to the east and
Naden to the west ; and 2^ miles deep to the narrow passage (which is
1^ miles long and about half a mile wide) leading into the harbour.

To the northward of the narrows, the west shore between Mary point,
the western entrance of the narrows, and Jorey point, a distance of 2 miles,
is bordered by a flat extending to a distance of about half a mile, and on
the opposite shore, from cape Edensaw to Inskip point, a shoal also extends
about the same distance ; from the latter point & spit runs off to the west-
ward for three-quarters of a mile, with a depth of 2^ fathoms, contracting
the channel, in which the least water is 3^ fathoms, to a width of 4 c^oles.
From Inskip point to George point, the east point of entrance t) the
narrows, the eastern shore is clear of danger.

The outer anchorage of Virago sound is sheltered from all winds to the
southward of East and West. With two small wooded islets on the west
side of the entrance, bearing S.W. by W. ^ W. one mile, cape Edensaw
N.E. by E. ^ E. 2 miles, and the opening to the inner harbour S. ^ W. about
2.J miles, the depth is 5^ fathoms water, sand and shells ; the shores are low
and fringed with kelp, but the lead will be a safe guide, as the water shoals
gradually towards the land.

A vessel can always get a pilot by firing a gun and anchoring for a short
time, which it is recommended should be done. The Indian fishermen will
come off and point out any danger that may be in the way for a small
recompense.

The inner anchorage, opposite Kung village on the western side, just
within the narrows, is in 10 fathoms, at about 2 or 3 cables distant from the
shore. This village has been nearly abandoned for the new Ya tza village
on the coast at about 4^ miles north-west of Virago sound. This site,

* See sketch of Virago Round, on Admiralty plann of porta, &r. in Queen Cfakrlotte
i^laDtl, No. 2,168 i scale, m » 05 of an inch.

CHAP. XV.]

VIRAGO SOUND.- NAUEN HARBOUE.

513

though difficult to hind at with northerly winds, has been chosen because tlip
Indians can get more trade here, as many Indians come across fri^m the
north, a distance of about 40 miles, and there is a rather prominent iiill
behind Klas kwun point by which the canoe-men doubtless shape their
course. The people were removing in 1870. Above Kung village a bank
extends off the eastern side of the narrows noiivrly half-way across, leaving
a channel along tlie western shore, with 7 to 10 fathoms water in it.

NADEN HARBOUR.— This capacious and land-looke<l harbour
is about 4 mi' ,'h in greatest length north and south, and 2 miles in width,
with depths of 8 to 12 fathoms in it. Low land, densely wooded with
spruce and hemlock of fine growth, borders the whole harbour. Rock
appears on the shore only near the bottom of the harbour, and at Kung
villiige in the narrows. The south-eastern shore of the harbour is low,
with wide tide-flats ; the north-western comparatively bold.

Naden river enters the harbour at its south-east corner, and is
prolrtibly the largest river on Queen Charlotte islands. It flows from a
large lake, which, according to Indian account, mu.-st be )() miles or n»ore in
diameter, but is much encumbered by fallen trees, and its banks, except in
a few swampy flats, are densely woo<led. At higli water a boat can
proceed about 2 miles up. Stanley (Te ka) river in the south-west comer
of the harbour is reported to Ih> navigable for boats ; and several smallt-r
streams also enter the harbour. The spruce timJ)er is excellent, and the
harbour is well adapted for saw-mills and the export of lumber. In August,
the Indians say that halibut and salmon are abundant, and geese and ducks
come in lai^ flocks.

Tid.68. — The rise and fall is about 13 feet.

VIRAGO SOUND to CAPE KNOX.— From cape Naden
on the west side of Virago sound, the general trend of the shore is west-
ward for about 17 miles to capf Knox, the north-western ostn'nie of
Graham islaml. The shore and country Iwhind it are mostly low,
though with sotao rocky clifls of no great height, and the poiaL- are rocky,
hut wide gravelly or sandy bays intervene. Some rocKs occur at a litth'
distance off" shore, but there is no appearance of a wide shoal belt like thnt
found eatit of Masset. Klas kwun point, 4^ miles W. by N. from cape
Naden, is a remarkable promontory, rising in the centre to a hill about
2(X) feet in height, which, owing to the Hat character of other parts of the
akon>, EH visible for a long distance. In n rocky bay to the east of iho
fWiDt, and open vo the uorth-eaatward, is \'at za village befort describetl

Abaut half way between point North and the entrance to Vimgo soinid,
on » line wjoneoring the two, captait! Brundigc obtained soundings in

514

QUEEN CnARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[oatp. XT.

05 fathoms at a distance of about 4 miles from the shore, and 30 fathoms
close in to the shore at point North.

Jal Un river. — Half-way from Kltts kwun point to the east entrance
of Parry passage is Jal un rivor. This stream is of no great size, but
its mouth, in the bottom of a small bay, forms an excellent canoo or
boat harbour at high water, and appears to be a favourite stopping place for
travelling Indians. At 3 miles further westward is a small promontory,
on the east side of which is another excellent boat harbour.

Pillar bay. — To the west is tt wide bay, called Pillar bay from u
very remarkable columnar mass of sandstone and conglomerate rock which
stands near the eastern side, about 25 feet in diameter and 95 feet
high. The summit is sloping and covered with some small bushes. It is
separated at high water from the main shore, but rises from a sandy
and stony flat at low water. The Indian (Haida) name isHla tad zo woh.

PARRY PASSAGE separates North island (which forms the
north-western extremity of Queen Charlotte islands) from Graham island.
The western entrance at the south-east angle of Cloak bay is threc-quar'crs
of 11 mile wide, but is contracted to less than 3 cables by foul ground which
extends in u N.N.W. direction from u point on the southern side of the
entrance. The passage proper is about 2 miles in length, with an average
■width of thi ee-<iuarterH of a mile. This channel, between the ledges of rock
which extend off the southern side for about one mile and North island, is
clear, but the tid^ rushes through it, forming a race. TI»e flood runs
eastward, leaving the east end of the passage with a north-easterly direction.
Two deserted Indian villages (Kak oh and Kioo sta) are situated on the
south side of Parry jMissage, neor its west entrance.

" Parry passage towards its (last end, is sopprutcd into two arms by
Lucy island, somewhat less than two-thirds of a mile long and one-third
of a mile broad. The northern arm is not nuich over one cable wide ; the
southern or main channel is more than half a mile wide. The soundings in
the main passage are 30 fathoms, with a rocky bottom. The shores, except
in the narrow western entrance, seem to be clear of dangers. The northern
arm, while extremely narrow, is still forther obstructed by foul gi'ound
(ixtending oft' to the north-eastward from the eastern shore of Lucy inland
less thou half a mile, and u similar bank from the opposite shore of North
island. There is, however, a narrow chnnnel having from 4 to fathoms,
hard bottom, at the e^istern end, and thi^- increases to 15 fathoms in the
vestern part of the arm.

A small islet lies about one mile to the eaistward from tho east<.<rn entrance
to this arm, and a rock awash is reported 2^ miles N.E. from the same
loudity, and about 1^ miles from the southern shore of Nuri.li inland."

OHAP. XV.]

PARRY PASSAGE.— NORTH ISLAND.

515

Bruin bay.* — Just without tbo eastern entrance of Pnrry passage,
and on the south side, abreast of Lucy island, is a bay affording anchorage
in from 12 to 14 fathoms, sand. A lino of kelp fringes the shore
which is studded with rocky patches and stones. This is not a goo<l
anchorage except for a temporary stopping place during thick weather,
lus the flood sets into it from tiio passage, forming n number of Pildiep, and
rendering it difficult to lie at single anchor without fouling it. The
country at the buck is low and covered with trees, with hero and there
grassy spots.

NORTH ISLAND, named by Dixon in 17«7, is about 5 miles in
length, between Nortb point and its southern extreme, and composed of
low land, no point probably reaching a height of 3(X) feet. It is densely
wooded. On the eastern side of North island there is said to bo a good
anchorage in a bay which was formerly often used by the vessels belongir)g
to the old North West Company. A small round high island situated close
to point North, a prominent object in approaching, was named Thrumb
Cape by Ingraham.

Rcmarkablo wooden carvinsTS are said to exist on the North island shore,
or attaclu'd to the winter dwellings of the »;atives. Birds, whales, salmon
and other fish and shell tish are reported as very abundant.

Cloak bay forms the western entrance to Parry passage, lying between
the south-west shore of Norlii is'und and cape Knox. It is about 2^ miles
wide, and the same deep, the depths in the miildlc of the bay vary from
30 to 17 fa*homs, sand, gravel, aUvl shells, and it is protected from all
except westerly winds. Some rocks, on which the sea breaks only in
heavy weather, lie some distance irom the North islaml shore, anil there are
also a couple of remarkable pointed islands on this side.

Honslung. — On the south side of North island, in Parry passage, is
a snug cove named Houslung, in Avhich whalers used occasinnn'ly to anchor,
II. M.S. Virayo anchored in it in 30 fathoms Avater, and had but just room to
swing clear of the precipitous rocks of conglomerate which form its western
side. At the heail of the cove is a sandy beach, with a stream of water
running tlirough it.

Tides. — It is high water at full and change at Hcnslung, at
Oh. 20 m., and the rise 16 feet. The night tides are 2 feet higher than
the day.f

Luoy islEnd, on the north shore of tht passage, is separated from
the south side of North isluud by a narrow channel, on the north shore of

• Thin .ilaco rcciivod itb nftiiie from a large bour coming down on the beach to feed
abruaMt <if the ship, wliilt; II. M.S. Vinii/o wus iil iinchor, in May I Ho.).

t Mr. Willium Douglits, comuiamliug the Uivling ship Ii>higiHut in Juue 17S8.

i; u 2

516

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

fcIIAP, XV.

wliich is a Ntnall rnclinn village, callod Tnrtanne, which was in former
years a place of importance. A reef raiis olf tl»o east end of Lucy
island, and a wide shoal with kelp stretches eastward from tho, shore of
tlio Bouthorn extremity of North island. Hetwecn the^e lies the channel
witli 8 to 11 fathoms water. Abreast tho Indian village the depth in tho
channel is 6 fathoms.

CAPE KNOX, the north-west extreme of Graham island, is a lonj^
narrow tongue of land, on which are a few low hills. Tho capo may bo
considered as a gigantic dyke of igneous rock running in an east and
we.Mt direction. Its south side is liold, and off it lie several rocks in a
westerly direction, the farthest out at a distance of about 3^ miles from the
cape. On these the swell of the Pacilic seldom ceases to break with great
violence. A rough trail about a mile in length leads from Kioosta village
(in PaiTy passage) across tho neck of the land at tho base of the promontory
of cape Knox, to Lepas bay on the west coast.

Cape Knox is situated in latitude ot" 10' ;iO" N., longitude 132' 58' W.

Directions, — On leaving Bruin bay or Henslung cove for the west-
ward, a vessel may pass clomi to the clifl's forming the .southern sitle of
iNorth island, and keeping at about half a mile outside the reefs that extt>nd
off the south shore (Graham island), get a good ofFing before hauling to
the Konthward, to clear the rocks oH' cape Knox. When well out, the
projecting point of Frederick island will be seen about IH miles to the
south-eastward. At 2 or 3 miles to the southward of i'arry passage is an
indentation of the shore, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessel
coming from tho southward, — a mistake that might lead to serious conse-
quences, as the whole coast, as far as Frederick island, a])pcars to contain
several open bays, with outlying rocks off each of them. The Indians, in
their sketchca of this part of the coast, do not draw any harbours, but
merely exposed bays.

Frederick island lies about 14 miles S. \ W. from cape Knox. Behind
this island fngraham is stated to have discovered a commodious harbour in
1791, which he named port Ingralmm, lie places this inlet in latitude
53'^ '17' N. The northern entrance is formed by two high bluft's with some
small islets between them. Here Ingraham obtaine<l 17 fathoms. Northward
from the entrance on the coast is a large reef of rocks, and westwanl and
southward from the southern point of entrance along the shore of Frederick
Island are a large number of sunken rocks The portexten<ls about 6 nules
from the entrance in an easterly direction, is about 2 miles wide with four
small islets near the head. In the vicinity of the islets is some kelp. At
the head is a beach and 9 or 10 fathoms water. Towards tho head the
port curves moro to the eastward. Half way towards the hoa<i Ingraham

:UA1-. XV.]

CAPE KNOX. — 1N8KIP CHANNEL.

517

got 6-1 fathtmiH. The pa<snf;c eaHtward of Frederick island has sovcrul
iHlotH in it and fiithoins water. Some kelp is noted in the channel ;
In^ralinin plnnea this south entmiioe in about longitude 133° 5' W.

HIPPA ISLAND, lying 26 miles S.E. ^ S. from Frederick island,
nppciurs from a position 1^ niiU's seaward of Frederick island as high nnd
bold ; but from the south its oiilci' end appears as n low point, and the inner
end bold. This portion of the coast is higher and more broken than the
former, the openings appearing deeper, neither does it seem tohnve so many
rocks lying off" it. The Indians show some good harbours towards Hippa.
When abreast Hippa island, Buck |)oint, 27 miles distant, and also capo
Henry, about IH miles farther to the southward, can be seen, the const
presenting the same high and broken appearance as the preceding 26 miles.
All the points along this part nmch resemble Buck |)oint.

BUCK POINT, on the northern side of Skidegate channel (which
leads through to Skidegate), is rather low and rugged, jutting out from thn
high land at the back. It has a large high island just to the northward
of it, and there is another, much smaller and )>eakcd, standing out clear
of the land at about 3 or 4 miles farther to the northward, and lying
in the entrance of Cartwright sound, which is formed l)«twecn Buck point
on the south, and Hunter point on the north,

SKIDEGATE CHANNEL, the main entrance to which ia
about 7 or 8 miles to the eastward of Buck point, and is a little more than
one mile in width, extends in an ensterl)' direction for 6 or 7 miles to Log
point, where it is one mile wide. This part of the channel aflbrds no
sheltered anchorage. At Log point the West narrows commence, which
lead to Skidegate inlet. About one mile west of Log point a branch turns
off to the southward for one mile, and then westward to the Pacific, which it
enters at about 3 niilosto the southward of the main channel, forming an island
5 J miles long by 2 broad, which rises <o an elevation of 1,(XX) to 2,0(X) feet.

This jmssago is only adu|)tod for canoes or boats, as it is blocked by a
bank ut its eastern end, with not more than 4 feet on it at high water.

A vessel entering the main channel from the west might find anchorage
in the eutrunce of this passages where it unites with the main channel.

INSKIP CHANNEL,* leading round the north side of Kui>er
island, is about S\ miles long, and half a mile wide. A short distance
outside it, there are some small inlands on both sides, but there vl bo
no diirioulty in discovering the passage in. In the channel there waj no
l)ollom at ()() fathoms, btit at the entrance a cast of 35 fathoms was
obtained on a halilxit bank. At a short distance inside the islands, ou the

♦ Was fifRt used by II.M.S. Virago in 1S53.

518

gUEKN CIIAHLO'I TE ISLANDS.

[cOAr. XV.

nortli sido of tho cntrnncp, is n villngn l)olonginp to tlio Kilkito trihoa.
Fnrtlior in, on the snmc side, and about 3^ milrs tip, i'h a donj) oponinp, nml
whoro tins and Moore channel meet nro two other openings to harbourH
with some small ii*lnnds lying near them.

MOORE CHANNEL,* on tho MOUth nido of Kupcr island, in
/5 miloH long in an E.N.E. anil W.S.W. direction, and half a milo wide, tho
Hhoro on each side being bold of approach, high, and oovored with trees
nearly down to tho water's edge. In mid-channol there i^< no bottom at
70 fathomH. On the north si<le, jnst without tho entrance, are Homo Bmall
rocky islets, named Moresljy i.slandM, and on the south side, a few rocks
close in shore. In 1852 a largo number of adventurers from California had
collected here to dig and search for gold, some of that motal having been
discovered by tho Indians.

MITCHELL or GOLD HARBOUR, about 2J milci deep
and half a mile wide, is surrounded by precipitous and densely wooded
hills, from 700 to HOO feet in height, and at its head in Thetis cove is a
sandy beach and a stream of water. At 1 J miles up tho harbour is Sansnm
island, a small spot covered with trees, and the ruins of a numlKjr of huts.
The anchorage lies half a mile further on, in Thetis cove, keeping Sansiim
island on the port han»l, tho passage being one cable wide, with deep water,
This cove is completely land-locked, but squalls, frequently accompanied
by rain, come over the hills with considerable violence.

Thorn rock "es a good half mile from the mouth of tho harbour, no
the starboard side going in, and has only 3 foot on it at low water ; it lies
about one cable from the shore ; and on tho opposite side, at not (juite so
great a distance from the land, but a little further out, is another rock.
Those are dangerous to vessels working in or out; but thcro is nothing to
fear if tho wind bo fair and the ship kept mid-channol.

DOUGLAS HARBOUR.— At one mile to the westward of Mitchell
harbour, and on tho same side of Moore channel, is the entrance to Douglas
harbour, apparently very similar to the former, from which it is separated
by .Tosling peninsula.

Directions. — The land being very high on both sides of the channels
leading into the above harbours, influences tho direction of tho wind which
is cither righc in or out. Winds with any westing blow in, and those
with easting the contrary. A sailing vessel leaving Moore channel with a
sonth-east wind should keep woU over towards Hewlett bay, to enable hor
to fetch clear of the Moresby islanils, as the wind will be very unsteady
until well clear of tho high land to windward,

* See Admirnlty plans i— Ports in (Juren Chnrlotto islandf, No. 2,168.

CIIAl*. XV.J

MOOU£ UUA-NNEL.— TA800 UAKJiOUU.

510

TidOS. — It is liigh wntor, full iitnl clinngc, nt Mooro cbaunol, nt lb. 40fn ;
Hprings rlso 13 foot, iifiips 10^ feet.

TASOO HARBOUR.— Cape Henry, lying 3 miles from tho
entrance to Mooro channel, terminntos in iv stoop slope with ii hummock at
the extremity ; 17 mih's to tho southward of this is tho entrance to Tasoo
harbour, the intermcdinte conHt b<'ing high, and rising abruptly from tho
sea. The entrance is short and narrow, but tho hurbo<ir itself is »!xtensive,
with deep water in many places, tho anchorage being near some small
iidaiids on the jmrt hand jroing in ; it has only been visited by a few of tho
Hudson Hay Company's olHcerj.

liitween Tasoo harbour and caiw St. .James arc other openings, which,
acconling to Indian report, lead into good harbours, tho 8outh(>rnmoMt of
which is that leading into Houston Stewart channel and Rose hartunir.
Insid(' Atithony island, and close to Houston Stewart channel, is an opening
eallctl by tho natives Louscoonc, and reportctl to be a good harbour, not
unlike Rose harl)our. This coast, excepting otf Anthony island, is also
apparently bold. The land near cape St. .lames has fewer trees on it than
that to tho northward.

TllG natives (Ilaida Indio.is) of tho Queen Charlotte iHlands aro
fond of travelling, and maku voyages of several hundred miles in their
canoes, visiting Sitka on tho north, port Sia)pson to tho north-east, and
Victoria harbour on the south. They excel in tho coDstruction of tluir
cnnocs.

Supplies. — 'I'he banks in and near Hecate strait, swept by strong
currents, with the shore lino of irdets and fiords, constitute the feeding
grounds of the halibut and other fish, which abound in tho vicinity of the
islands. The halibut is tho most important, and is largely consumed by the
natives ; the dog-fish is also very abundant, and is taken for tho manu-
facture of oil ; salmon run up most of the streams in largo numbers,
especially in (he autumn ; herring are plentiful in some places, especially
about Skidegato, at certain seasons ; pollock or coal fi.sh are caught on tho ^
north and west const, and supplies an ediblo oil ; flounders and plaice
abound in some localities ; cod and mackerel are also caught, and probably
aro abundant on certain banks at some seasons ; while smaller fish and shell
flsh, oysters excepted, form an important item in the native dietary. From
April to October the shell fish are said by the natives to be poisonous.
Immense flocks of wild geeso and duck visit tho northern shores of the
islands in tho autumn. PoUitoes grow in abundanco in most parts, and
thrive exceedingly well, forming an important article of food. These are
all to 1)0 bought either for money, strong cotton sliirl?, cotton dresses, plain
cotton, knives, tobacco, mother of pearl jacket buttons for ornamenting

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^ /^

^. . ^

1.0

I.I

- 6"

■^ Im IIIII22

Illll 1.8

1-25 11.4 Illll 1.6

Photographic

Sciences

CorporatiOii

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

wmmmmmm

520

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[CHAF. XV.

their blankets, or any of tlie ai-ticles commonly bartered among aborigines.
The blanket is now, however, a recognised currency.

Bears are numerous, also martens, sea and land otters, which are caught
for their furs, and mostly taken to the Hudson Bay Company's establish-
ment at fort Simpson.

121

TABLE OP POSITIONS.*

Latitude

Longitude

Place.

Particular spot.

North.

West.

Esquimau - -

Duntze head

/ //

48 25 49

o / //

123 46 45

Port San Juan -

Snuggery cove - - -

48 32 40

124 26

Victoria harbour

Laurel point

48 25 22

123 23 02

Semiahmoo bay

Parallel station

122 45 30

Roberts point

„ west side -

123 5 26

Fraser river . - -

Garry point . - -

49 07 04

123 11 15

Burrard inlet

English bay - - -

49 16 25

123 11 22

Howe sound, Plumper cove -

Observation point -

49 24 39

123 29 20

Nanaimo . . -

„ spot

49 10 15

123 56 36

Nootka sound - - -

Friendly cove

49 35 31

126 37 32

Port Augusta

Beak point

49 36 29

124 51 18

Esperanza inlet

Queen's cove

49 52 46

126 59 55

Kyuquot sound - - -

Shingle point -

49 59 55

127 9 30

Nasparti inlet -

Head of beach -

50 11 21

127 37 58

Koprino harbour ...

Observation island -

50 30

127 52 16

Quatsino sound

Observatory rock

.50 29 25

128 3 39

Beaver harbour -

Shell islet -

50 42 36

127 25 07

Port Neville -

Robbers nob - - -

50 31 08

126 4 22

Klaskino inlet - - -

Twenty feet rock

60 17 40

127 52 40

Port Harvey -

Tide pole islet -

50 33 47

126 16 48

Farwell harbour -

Observatory island -

50 35 59

126 41 35

CuUen harbour

Gordon point - - -

50 45 50

126 45 10.

Cypress harbour -

Tree islet

50 49 45

126 41 00

Tracey harbour

Star rock

50 SO 58

126 53 12

Blunden harbour -

Burnes Island

50 54 24

127 19 04

Beaver cove - - -

Lewis point - - -

50 32 47

126 52 12

Bull harbour, Hope island

North point of Indian island

50 54 47

127 56 U3

Squirrell cove, Carter island

Observation spot

50 or 47

124 56 51

Shushartie bay

llalstead island

50 51 22

127 51 20

♦ These longitudes have been determined by meridian distances measured from Duntze
head, Esquimau harbour, the longitude of which is assumed to be 123° 26' 45" W. of
Greenwich.

522

TAJJL1> OF I'OSiTlONS.

Vlace.

Particular spot.

Longitude
West.

Vincr sound
Knight inlot

Seymour inlet
Slingsby channel

{

Takush harbour, Smith sound -

Fitzhugh sound, Schooner 1
retreat - -j

„ Safety cove

„ Welcome Harbour •

„ Goldstream harbour

„ . Namu harbour

McLaughlin bay, Lama passage

Kynurapt harbour

Port Blakcney, Milbank sound

Morris bay - - -

Bclakula anchorage, Burke 1
channel - - -J

Nowish cove - - -

Finlayson channel, Klemtoo"!
anchorage. J

>, Carter bay

Holmes bay, M^hale channel -

Port Stephens

Coghlan anchorage -

Lowe inlet . . -

Port Canaveral

Klevrnuggit inlet

Alpha bay (Ogden channel) -

Refuge bay, Edye passage

Chatham sound, Qlawdzeet \
*: anchorage - - f

i , f"„j^, Metlah catlah bay

„ Port Simpson

Portland inlet, Nass bay

„ „ Nass river

„ canal, Bear river

Observation spot at head of -

Glendalo cove

Sargeaunt passage

Wah shih las bay

Eclipse narrows

Harvell point

Treadwell bay (Observation 1
spot on north side of bay J

Observation point -

Centre island • - -

Observation spot
Kelp point
ILiwser point
Observation spot
„ spot

Berry point -
Observation spot
Acchorage - - -

Observation spot
Fell point -

Observation spot -

„ spot

spot
spot
„ point

James point
Squall point
Morning reef

North point - - -

Table point -

Harris island . ' ' -

Observation spot
„ spot

„ spot

Of//

50 47 08
50 40 07

50 41 02

51 01 20
51 04 09
51 05 48

51 06 03

51 16 51

51 28 10

51 31 49
51 41 5
51 43 19

51 51 44

52 8 37
52 12 20
52 18 47
52 21

52 ^2 42
52 31 2£

52 34 22

52 49 41

53 16 25
53 20 30
53 22 44
53 32 30
53 33 47
53 39 24

53 52 01

54 3 50

54 12 59

54 20 10
54 33 51

54 59 26

55 3 54
55 56 03

o / //

126 22 47

125 43 40-5

126 11 18

125 35 29-5

126 47 53

127 31 10

127 '13 30
127 38 43
127 44 38

127 56 23

128 7 45
128 34

127 52 23

128 10 18
128 11 87
128 22 42
128 28 30

126 48 04

ri28 27 15
\ (Approx.)

128 32

128 24 34

129 5 19
129 41 15
129 17 15

129 35 48

130 8 30

129 44 51

130 17 34
130 32 10

130 45 40

130 27 30
130 26 36
129 57 36

129 31 54

130 3 27

TABLF or POSITIONS.

523

Place.

Particular spot.

Latitude
North.

Houston Stewart channel
Skidegatc inlet
Virago sound -
Port Kuper

Queen Charlotte Islands.

J Observation spot at Rasp- "I
\ berry cove - - J

Anchor cove, Observation spot

Cape Edensaw

Sansum island - - -

Longitude
West.

.52

9 22

131 1 16

12 31

133 14 19

4 30

132 21 30

,56 31

132 1) 40

52i

TIDE TABLE.

High water
Full and
Change.

Rise.

Place.

Springs.

Neaps.

Alert bay, Cormorant island

U. M.

Ft.
15

Ft.

Alpha bay, Ogden channel - - -

noon

18-19

—

Barclay sound, Island harbour

noon

—

Beaver cove ...

—

Beaver creek, Loughborough inlet

Beaver harbour* - ...

15f

111

Beecher and Pedder bays.t Race island -

—

Bellakula ....

noon

—

Blnnden and Tracy harbours. Queen \
Charlotte Sound - - - J

noon

Bull harbour, Goletas channel]: -

12^

Burrard inlet. Strait of Georgia -

—

Cameleon harbour, Nodales channel

Carter bay - . - - -

noon

—

Clayoquot sound ...

noon

—

Coglilan anchorage

Cowitchin harbour - - -

—

10-12

—

CuUen harbour - -

noon

Cypress harbour. Sharp passage -

noon

Deep harbour, Fife sound -

noon

Drayton harbour, Semiahmoo bay

—

Edyc passage (Refuge bay)

1 30

17-22

14-17

Esperanza inlet ...

noon

—

„ . ,,o r May to October
E8quunalt§ | j^ov. to April -

Mid to 3 AM \
noon to 3 PM J

7-10

5-8

Fane island. Plumper sound

irr.

"~"

♦ From observations made in the month of May.

■f Note. — The tides are very complicated. In Pedder bay in the month of October the
tide at high water was observed to fall one foot, and then to rise again. The ebb stream
is diverted into Pedder bay and prevents the water leaving it ; but when tlie ebb stream
slackens Pedder bay ra»)idly empties itself. Beecher bay is subject to the same
complication.

J From observations made in the month of October.

8 With strong winds from the south-east to south-west the tide rises 2 feet above lac
ordinary level.

fPHIini,y,A-i«;W)'ft'w^'H.Tn,rTm'^"

. ^^'j^%^'^7'v^r>T*.-

TIDE TABLE.

526

Place.

Farewell harbour -

Finlayson channel, Nowish cove

Fitzhugh sound, Schooner retreat
„ Safety cove
„ Goldstreara harbour
„ „ Namu harbour

„ ,, Welcome harbour

Forward harbour - . -

Fraser river entrance
„ „ light-house -

Gowlland harbour, Discovery passage

Griffin bay, Haro archipelago

Hernando island, (Baker passage)

Ilesquiat harbour

Holmes bay ...

Inner channels leading from Juan de Fuca ^
Strait to Haro strait

Jervis inlet - - -

Klaskino inlet

Klaskish inlet ...

Klemtoo passage, Finlayson channel

Klewnuggit inlet, Grenville channel

KnoK bay . - - -

Kynumpt harbour

Kyuquot sound - - -

Lowe inlet . . -

Malaspina inlet

Maple bay . - - -

McLaughlin bay, Lama passage

Metlah catlah, Chatham sound

Nanairao harbour, Strait of Georgia

Nanoose harbour, Vancouver Island

Nasparti inlet - - -

Nass bay . . -

Neeah bay . - -

New Dungeness . - -

New Westminster

Nimpkish river

High Water
Full aud
Change.

Rise.

Springs.

Neaps.

II. M.

Ft.
15

Ft.
8

noon

—

•

noon

15-16

12-13

11*

6 30

7-10

4 to 4.30

15-12i

—

5 30

—

irr

—

12-14

noon

—

'ucal

irr.

10-12

—

noon

—

noon

—

noon

—

noon

—

8-10

•

noon

—

noon

—

1 5

23-17

—

3 3

—

;

526

TIDE TABLE.

.'lace.

High Water
Full and
Change.

Rise.

Nisqually, Piiget sound
Nootka sound
Nuchalitz inlet
Observatory inlet -
Oljmpia ...
Ou ou kinsh inlet - - -

Pender harbour, Strait of Georgia*
Plumper cove, Howe sound*
Port Augusta ....
„ Blakeuey, Milbank bound
„ Canaveral
,, Discovery

„ Essiugton . - .

„ Graves*

„ Harvey, Call creekf -
„ John, Fisher channel -
„ Kuper . - .

„ Nevillef

„ Simpson . - -

„ Stephens

„ Townshend - - -

Portland inlet

Prideaux haven . - .

Qlawdzeet anchorage
Quatsino sound, Vancouver island
Bendezvous islands
Roche harbour, Haro strait
Sargeaunt passage, Knight inlet
Seymour narrows
Shoal harbour
Shuphartie bay*
Skidep;:ite inlet
Siiogsby channel -
Sooke inlet - - -

II
6

Springs.

Ft.
18

Noon

1 5

5 8

noon

12-14

noon

2 30

noon

1 40

1 30

17-22

3 49

1 30

23-27

1 30

17-22

irr.

—

2 20

Neaps.

Ft.
15

11-17

5
15-20

14-17

* From observations made in the month of October,
t From obaervations made in the month of May. '•^"

TIDE TABLE.

627

High Water
Full and
Change.

Bise.

Place.

Springs.

Neaps.

n. M.

Ft.

Squirrel cove - - - - -

^■"

Stamp liaibour - . - -

noon

Steilacoom . - - - -

4 46

Stuart anchorage - - - -

—

„ channel, Oyster harbour

—

„ island . - - - -

12-14

—

Sunday harbour and Dusky cove, Queen "1
Charlotte sound - - -J

—

Suquash anchorage - - - -

—

Surge narrows - . . -

—

Sutil channel - - - -

—

Takush harbour, Smith's inlet

Telegraph and Oyster harbours

Topaze harbour . - - -

Treadwell bay - . - -

Tucker bay ... -

7 30

—

Uchucklesit - - - - -

—

Viner sound f • -

ir,

Victoria harbour* - "{ Nov. to Apr.

Mid. to 3 a.m.
Noon to3 p.m.

\ 7-10

5-8

Waddington harbour, Bute inlet

—

* With strong winds from the south-east to south-west the tide rises 2 feet above the
ordinary level,

529

INDEX.

Aaltanhash inlet
Aberdeen fishery
Acapulco -
Acland islands
Acteeon sound
Active cove -

pass -

, directiora

.light -

, tides -

, point

Ada islands -

rock

AdauiB moant
Addenbrooke island
Admiral island
Admiralty head
.light

inlet

-. directions
-, lights

Adze head - - -

Agamemnon channe
Agglomerate island
Ain river . - -

Alarm rock, Canaveral port

. Stuart channel

Alaska . - -

Alberni inlet

, First narrows -

, Second narrows

Albert head
Alden bank

Alder island

, anchorage
Aldrich point
Alert bay - - -

mission -

, tides

Alexander point, Jervis inlet
A 17498.

Page
389

• 401

82
. 247

• 102

- 84

- 85

■ 85

■ 86

- 79

- 151

- 355

- 255

- 361

- 80

• 27

- 27
26-28

- 29

- 27

- 30

- 175

- 495

- 511

- 453

- 78
7.408

- 277

- 279

- 36

- 125

- 51

- 493

- 378

- 218

- 2TB

- 219

- 177

Alexander point, Kenneth passage -

port . - -

Alexandra passage, Milbank sound -
, Milbank sound,

soundings
— — — , Milbank sound,

directions

, Smith sound

Alexandra patch . . -

Alford reefs - - - -

Alice arm . - . -

All alone stone . - .

Allan island
Alliford bay

, water - - .

Allison sound

Alpha bay - - - -

-, anchorage

, tides

islet - - - ■

passage

Alton island
Amphitrite point
Anchor bay

bight

cone

cove

, observation spot

— islands, Takush harbour
, Treadwell bay

mountain

Anchorage island

patch

Angelos point
port

-, directions
-, water

Anger island
Ann island -
Annette creek
Annie locks

I'age
248
26U
383

383

383
353
411
413
478
493
120
503
503
256
469
' 469

• 469

- 292

• 185

■ 292

■ 380

• 356

• 397

■ 503

- 503

- 356

- 254

- 467

- 336

- 425

- 24

- 452

- 355

- 83
• 251

L I.

530

INDBX.

Anthony island
Anvil island

peak -

Apples island
Aracline reef
ArbntuM island

iHlut

point

Archibald point
AristazabJe island -
Armour rock
Arnold rock
Arran rapids
Arrow passage
Arrowsmith mount -
Arthur island
, foul ground off

passage

Ashe head -
AtkinH cove -

reef -

Atkinson island

point

light

A tli inlet -
Augusta port

, directions

, supplies

, tides -
Auriol point
Australia -
Awun river -
Axe i>oint -

Babine lake •
Bag harbour
Bajo point -

reef -

, inner
Baker inlet -

island

passage

-, tides-

Ball cape (Kul tow sis)

, rock near

Balaklava island
Ballinae channel
■ islands

Pago

489
167
167
225

69
108

70
116
3C9-
460
414
319
19C
235
155
430
430
401

39
343

87
248
136
137
495
160
160
160
160
415
139
511
231

404
492
314
309
314
399
236
182
182
506
506
259
153
153

Bamber point
Bamfleld crctk
— — island!)
Banks island

reef -

Bar, the, Skidegato •

rocks, Hkidcgate

Hiirciay sound

, anchorageH -

, eastern chuiinel

273
direc-
tiourt

-, middle channel
-, boundingM
-, tides -
-, western channel

valley

Bardswell group

Unre hill ...

point

island, Clayoquot sound

, Miners channel

, Tree nob group

islands

islet, Beaver passage -

, Forward inlet

-, Harwoofl island -

, Klaskish inlet

, Klewnuggit inlet -

, Skidegate

, Spiedeu channel -

point -

rock, itlilbank sound -

, Nuchalitz inlet -

, Swanson island -

Bareside mountain -
Barfleur passage

Bargain harbour

Barlands bay

Barnard cove

Barnei island

Baronet passage

Barren rock . - -

Barrier islands. Smith sound

, Vancouver island

Barry islet ...
Barter cove . - -

Bartlett island

point

Base flat . - -
point - - -

Page
240
274

402
463
333
502
502
273
281
-280

280
281

273
273
288
482
460
369
240
296
66
431
165
468
340
180
334
896
502
59
75
37C
316
226
469
168
174
186
448
124
223
249
356
323
251
329
297
249
158
304

INDEX.

531

Basil lump •
B11H8 rock

, rocky ledge

, clearing mark

Bate paHHagc
Bath point -
Battle bay
Bauza cove -
Bawden bay -
Bay islanda -
— — islet

Baynen channel, Haro ntrnit
' , directions

' mount
sound

-, anchorage
-, buoys
-, directions
-, leading mar

Beacon hill -

rock, Nanaimo

— -^— — , Saanich inlet
Beak point -
Beale cape -

, light -

Bear river, Clayoquot sound
— — — , Portland canul -

, anchorage

, observation

Page

409

430

480

430

261

424

331

207

305

483

15G

157

156

157

150

145

• 7?

■ 158

. 274

- 274
. 300

- 484
485

spot

Bearskin bay
Beaufort range
Beaver bank
— — cove
' creek

. , tides -

, water -

harbour

-, anchorage -
-, directions -
-, tides

ledge

passage, Ogden channel

-, Ogden channel,
directions-
I.. — , Ogden channel,

sounding •
■ , Smith sound

point

rock, Brown passage
, Chatham point -

485
50.'^
161
377
217
199
199
199
220
222
222
222
443
468

468

468
354
69
432
205

Beober bay -

- anchorage

Bedford island

islands

Hpit

valley

Bedwell bay
harbour

-, anchorage

— islets

— sound

Bee islets -
Beecher mount
Beechey head
Beta kula -

, anchorage

, tides

, water

, winds

, or Nooklmlk river

Belize inlet - - -

Bell peak . - -

Bella Bella Indians •
— -slands

Belle chain - • -

rock - - .

Belleisle sound

Belletti point

Bellingham bay

channel -

Belmont point

Ben hill

Benjamin group

Benson point

Bentinck arms

island

, caution

Berens island light -

, fog signal

Berkeley mount

Berry cove - - -

creek -

island

point, Gabriola island -

, Seaforth channel

, Swindle island -

, Takush harbour

Bertie rock
Bessborough bay
Beware passage
Bickley bay

Pago

- 32
. 32

- 400

- 32
. 400

- 161
. 141

- 57

• 341

• 299

- 190

- 161

- 32

- 305

- 30:i

- 305

r,c5

- 250

- 384
360, 309

- 309

- 55

- 121

- 245

- 421

- 117

- 316

- 422

- 238

- 317
304, 305

- 35

- r,'i

- 42

- 210

- 244

- 373

- 224

- 142

- 372

- 385

- 350

- 355

- 210

- 22G

- 197

I L 2

532

INDEX.

Big bay

-, anchorage
-, directions

Bight cone - - -

cove - - -

Bigsby inlet

Bill of Orcas

, anchorBge

Birch bay - - -

Bird cove - . -

island - - -

— • islet -

— — islets - - .

reef . - -

rock, Moss passage

, Eosario strait

I , Wasp group

Bird's eye cove
Birnie island
Birthday channel -
BischofE islands

— — , anchorage -

Bishop cove
Black blufE -

island buoy -

islets - - -

— — patch - - -
.—— point . - -
I rock, Barclay sound -
, Espcranztt inlet -

, Portier pass
, (iucen Charlotte sound

, Rosario strait -

-, Stpially channel
— point

Blackberry islets
Blackfish sound
Blair inlet -
— — mount •
Blakely island
Blakeney is.et

passage, Johnstone strait

, Smith inlet

. port

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, supplies
-, tides

Bligh island

Blind bay, Harney channel -

, anchorage

Page

- 417

- 418

- 419

- 314

- Sid

- 496
. 113

- 113

- 125

- 194

- 360

- 67

- 286

- 76

- 382

- 121

- HI

- 74

- 422

- 520

- 494

- 891

- 219

- 147

- 108

- 290

- 428

- 288

- 319

- 90

- 249

- 121

- 446

- 301
• 224

- 373

- 232

- 117

- 455

- 218

- 356

- 381

- 882

- 881

- 311

- 115

Blind bay, Jervis inlet

creek

entrance, Kyuquot sound

reef, Esperanza inlet -

— , Sealed passage -

Blinder rock
Blinkinsop bay

, anchorage -

, shoal

Block head - . -

islet -

islets . . -

Blount rock
Blossom point
Bloxham island

passage -

— — — point

— shoal

Blue point

Blue Jay cove

Bluff point, Collison bay

, Laredo channel

, Portland canal

, Schooner retreat

, Stephens port -

, 'Welcome harbour

Blunden bay
harbour

-, anchorage ■
-, directions -
-(tides

island, Clayoquot sound
— — , Plumper sound

passage
point

Blunt or Smith island

-, anchorage
-, beacon
-, light -

Boat basin

water

channel

• cove, Price island
, Quatsino sound -

harbour, Johnstone strait
— , Stuart channel

shelter, Vancouver west coast

Boftiswain bank . - -

Boca del infiemo

Boddy creek . . .

Bold bluff, Quatsino sound -

Page

- 177

- 183

- 325

- 318

- 266

- 449

- 211

- 447

- 230

- 450

- 246

- 447

- 400

- 402

- 350

- 400

- 483

- 492

- 490

- 443

- 482

- 360

- 452

- 457

- 352

- 249

- 240

- 249

- 296

- 54

- 23C
r 151

- 117

- 118

- 307

- 134

- 378
338, 341

- 215

- 77
337

71
810
873
338

INUEX.

533

Bold bluff, SiinHum narrows

, Southgate group

, Tumour island -

head - - -

islet -

point - - -

fiolkus islands

Bond peninsula

sound -

Bonila island and peak

, landing

Bouilla point
Bonwick island

— islands

Booker lagoon

Boot cove ...

island

Boston isliindfi

Boughey bay
Boulder bank

head

• , Uigh

— — ledge

■ ledge

— point, Departure bay

, Malcolm island

, Maple bay -

, Neville port

, Squirrel cove

— reef

— rock, Hornby island

Boundary bay

• mark

rock

Bowen island
Bowyer island
Boxer point

reach

Boyle island

point

Boy'es point
Boys rock -
Bradley point
Branham island
Breaker islets

. group

ledge

point

— reef, Estcvan island
-, Sliadwell passage

Bretzy point

Page
74
252
226
187
313
227
491
247
240
465
465
272
234
249
237
55
367
439
439
213
377
378
162
377
147
219
74
212
184
191
162
126
127
185
166
166
200
391
264
157
248
469
244
252
463
456
456
449
449
261
482

Bremner islet

Breton islets

Bribery island

Bridge river -

Bright island, Swanson channel

, Takush harbour

lalet

British Columbia

-, barometer

-, climate

-, coal

-, current and tides

, fogs and smokes

, ice

— , meteorology
— , population
— , products ■•
— , railways •
— , rainfall -
— , telegraphs
— , thermometer
— , trade
— , winds

Brockton island

point

Brodie rock, Inner channels

, Chatham sound

, Principe channel

Broken channel

group, Barclay sound

, Bardswell group

islands, Desolation sound

-, Harvey port
-, Knight inlet

' point

Brooke island
Brooks bay -
— — peninsula
Brotchy ledge

-, buoy

Brothers island
Broughton island

strait

, anchorage

, directions -

, tides

Brown island, Beaver passage

, Friday harbour

, Gorge harbour

, Wasp group -

— narrows

Page

- 267

- 198

- 408

- 131

- 86

- 356

- 265

1
4
3
I

10-12
C,7

5,404
6
2
1
3
6
3
4
2

- 7-10

- 342

- 138

- 44

- 435

- 451

- 295

- 283

- 459

- 187

- 213

- 232

- 112

- 477

- 333

- 333
■ 41

- 42

- 4a

- 241

- 216

- 219

- ^16

- 355

- 190

- HI

- 459

534

Brown passage

', directions

— — , soundings

' — , tides -
. point, Admiralty inlet

-, Quatsino sound

INDEX.

Browne mount
Browning creek

entrance -

islands - - . ■

■ passage, Clayoquot sound

, Goletas channel -

, Smith inlet

port

»
rock

water

Bruce mount

— point - - -

Bruin bay - - -

, anchorage

Buccaneer bay

Buccleuch point

Buck point - - -

Buckingham island •

Buckland point

Budds harbour

Bnlkeley island

Bull harbour

————-, anchorage

, directions

————-, tides -

~ — passage

-— point . . -

rock, Barclay sound -

, Quatsino sound -

Bulley bay - - -

Bullock bluflF

channel

Bunsby islands

Buoyage, uniform system of

Burdwood bay

. group

— — — — point

Burgess island, Blunden harbour

islet, Clayoquot sound

■ I passage

Burgoyne bay

Burial islet . - -

Burke channel
Burnaby island
■ shoal

Page

- 431

- 432

- 433
432, 440

- 29

- 340
. 241

- 340
■ 466

- 250
302
259
356

55
213

80
206
515
515
174
251
517
247
139

25
209
262
262
262
262
173
356
283
343
384
184
366
330

16
193
238
309
249
296
206

74
369
493
139

Burnaby shoal, 'luoy
— — — strait
Burnt hill -
Burnt-cliff island

Burrard inlet

■ ledge

, communication with
-, directions
-, narrows, first -
second.

Burrows bay

-, north arm

-, submarine cable

-, tides -

-, trade -

_, tug -

-, water

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, tides -

Bush islet
islets

■ island

'—— point. Admiralty inlet

, Don island

, Sunday harbour

— — rock -
Bute inlet -

, caution -

, directions

, tides

Butterworth rocks -
Buttress island

Cactus islands
Cadboro bay
— ^— — point
Calamity bay
California coast
Call creek -

■, anchorage
Callam bay -
Calm channel

tides

creek - - -

Calver cape, Vancouver island
Calvert cape, Calvert island

■ island
»-— , landing

Page

. 139

• 492

- 340

- 419

- 419
. 136

137,139

- 138

- 140

- 141

- 137

- 14o
. 139

• 140

- 142

- 120
. 120

• 120

- 120
. 120
■ 454

- 229
. 27

• 378

- 235

• 491

• 195
. 198

- 196

- 197

• 431

- 255

463

214

194

197

298

357

465

455

INDEX.

535

C-.ivert point
Camelenn harbour -

, anchorage

, tides

Camp bay, Haro strait

, Retreat passage -

cove - - .

island, Cortes island -

, Lama passage -

• islet - - -

' point, Coghlan anchorage

, Johnstone strait

, Klewnuggit inlet

, Portland canal -

Campania island
~^—— sound

-, soundings -
-, tides

Campbell island
river

Pdge

- 399

- 206

- 57
• 233

- 115

- 191

- 368

- 447

- 394

- 208

- 398

- 481

- 448

- 444

- 445
395, 896

- 368

- 202
1

Canada ...
Canadian Pacific railway

3,135, 137,139,141
Canaveral port

-, directions
-, tides

Canoe bight - -

flat - . . .

island, Upright channel

island, Queen Charlotte sound

islet, Portier pass

, Principe channel

Cape islet -

range -

Capstan island
Captain island

passage

Carberry bay
Cardena bay

-, anchorage

Cardero channel

-, anchorages
-, caution
-, tides

Cardigan rocks
Careen creek

453
453
453
368
474
106
232

91
452
227
303
357

69
432
358
286
178

82
186
401
401
197
197
198
198
264
106

Pago

Carey group ... 226

Carolina channel ... 292

Caroline reef • . - 46

Carpenter bay - - 490

, anchorage - - 490

Carr islet .... 414

Curriden bay ... 247

Carrington bay - - - 191

reefs ... 455

Carter bay, Finlayson channel - >' "7

, anchorage

— — — , supplies

, tides

■ — 1 water

, Wells pass
— — point
Cartwright sound
Cascade bay
, wate. -

inlet

Castle island

— — islet and beacon

point -

Catala island
Cat-face mountains •
Catherine point
Cattle islands

point

Caution cape
, soundings

pomt

Caution rock

Cavendish rock

Cecil islet, Greenway sound

Native anchorage

patch ...

rock, Fulford harbour

Satellite channel

Celia reef -

Centre island, Burnaby strait

, Esperauza inlet

, Howe sound .

, Portland canal

, Shadwell passage

islet, Schooner retreat
, Sutil channel

point

reef. Clam bay

, Spieden channel

, Ucluelet arm -

rock, Cortes island .

387

- 387

- 241

- 124

- 517

- 116

- 367

- 119
288, 289

- 265

- 318

- 298

- 488
• 222

- 96

- 350

- 99

- 254

- 185

- 243

- 226

- 403

- 81

- 71

- 68

- 493

- 320

- 167

- 482

- 260

- 359

- 191

- 452

- 92

- 59

- 292

- J83

536

INDEX.

Centre rock, Drury inlet

, Inner channel
Cha che kwas
Chacon cape
Chads island
Chain islands, Ganges harbour

, Barclay sound

. , caution

islets . - -

islet, Great

Chalmers anchorage

-, anchorage

Chamiss bay
Chance rock
Chancellor channel
Channel group

island, Baronet passage

■ , Gardner canal

, Ogden channel

, Toba inlet -

— islands

— islet, Ucluelet arm -

— islets ,Agamemnon channel
, G 1 ges harb our

— point

— reef, Barclay sound

-, leading

marks -

, Esperanza inlet

, Sea-otter group

, Squally channel

- reefs, Klaskino inlet
rock, Great bank -

, Island harbour

, Laredo channel

, Neville port -

-, Victoria harbour

— rocks, Barclay sound

Page

246

461

437

283

402

4U2

327

360

209

• 467

223

392

467

■ 189

■ 434

■ 293
176

281

281
320
351
445
335
288
285
443
211
41
276

mark -
-, Kyuquot sound

.1 rocks

Charlie islets

Chapman point

Charles island, Lopez island

— — , Montague harbour -

■ , Pender harbour

. point, Blundcn harbour

— > Cooper inlet -

. , Farewell harbour

, Prevost harbour

lead-

276

326

416

105

177

249

368

225

228

Charlotte bay

Chart islet - - -

Chat channel point -

Chatfield island

Chatham channel

— — — islands

— — — point

— — — sound, anchorages -

— — — , caution

Cheek Squintz
Chemainos bay

— , dangers

- , general remarks

— , landmarks -

— , soundings -

— , tides

— , west coast -

-, anchorage -

Cherry point

Cheslakee village

Chick reef -

Chief rock - - -

China

Chismore passage -

■ , anchorage

Choked passage, Hakai channel

, Simpson port

Chop bay . - -
Christie bay
islands

Chroustchefif cape -
Church point
Claamen
Clahoose

Indians

Clallam point

Clalum Indians

Clam bay ...

, anchorage

, directions

— — island - - -

Clan ninick harbour

. ^— > anchorage

——, directions

Clapp passage

Clara islet - - -

Clark island - - -

Clarke rocks

' ' ■' , buoy -

I'age

- 255

- 226

- 324
. 371

214, 230

- 46

- 205

- 410

- 409

- 409
408-410

- 408

- 409
428, 440

- 429

- 380

- 76
76

- 71

- 217
• 225

- 329

- 139

- 402

- 402
457
425
229
875
467
259
601

180

179

189

363

328

330

329

230

380

124

148

INDEX.

537

Classet or Flattery cape
Claydon bay
Clayoquot sound

, directions -

i , tides

Clement reef
element's city harbour
Gierke reefs

Cliff island, Millbauk sound
, Namu harbour

, Wasp group -

- islets . - -

■ point, Banks island

, Portland canal -

inlet -

Climate, British Columbia -

, Portland canal

— — , Queen Charlotte islands

. , Simpson port

Clio bay - . -

I channel

Clippcrton island

Cloak bay - - -

Clock rock - - -

, leading mark -

Clover point
Clown rock
Cluster reefs

, leading mark -

Coach islands
Coal, Departure bay

, Esquimau

, generally - - - 1

, Nanaimo - - 145, 146

— , New Westminster - - 135

— — , Quatsino sound - - 272

, Skidegate inlet - - 503

— — , Sooke inlet - - - 81

, Su quash anchorage - - 220

, Vancouver harbour - 139, 140

— — , Victoria - - - 41

—^ harbour . , . 345

island - - - - 67

, reef near to - - 67

— — peninsula . . - 137

..I point - - - - 70

Coast, arclay sound to Clayoquot 294

Pago

- 19

- 247

- 294

- 305
• 295

102, 103

- 439

- 333
378, 383

- 362

- Ill
. 452

- 464

- 483

- 471

- 3,4
5,479

393

224

13
515
229
229

42
453
355
365
235
147

Coast mound

— — nipple

Coaster channel

Cochrane islands

Cockatrice bay

Cockburn cape

Cod bank, Chatham sound -

, Seaf orth channel ■

— reefs, Blakeney por

, clearing
marks
north and south. Shute

passage
Codfish passage

rock

Coffin islet, Hecate cove

, Oyster harbour

Coghlan anchorage -

— , anchorage

, directions

, soundings

-, tides
— — rock, Chatham sound
, Royal roads -

Colboume passage - - -

Cole bay . - - -

CoUingwood channel

CoUison bay . . .

Columbia river . . -

Colvas passage . . -

Colville cape

— — — — island . . .

Colwood islet . - .

Comber rock

Comet island . - .

Commencement bay

Commerell cape

Comox district

Company point

Compton island, Portland inlet

■ — , Queen Charlotte
sound -

Page
409
860

' 284
' 185

■ 241

■ 178
. 440

■ 373
- 381

381

67
459
457
342
76
394
395
395
395
395
435
36
49
71
167
490
130
28
119
119
316
359
67
29
258
160
31
470

point

caution

> cone
islet

- 294

- 229

- 406

Conconi reef

Cone island, Clayoquot soimd

, Finlayson channel

islands

islet

mountain

Connel islands

Connis rocks, Beaver passage

224
243
56
305
385
123
463
4il
434
468

538

INDEX.

Connis rocks, Chatham sound
Constance bank

■ cove and anchorage

Constitution mount -

Conuma peak

Coode peninsula

Cook capo or Woody point ■

Cooper inlet, Lama passage •

, San Juan port -

reach

reef - - -

Copper bay - . -
islands

Cordova channel

Cormorant bay

directions

-, anchorage -
-, directions -
-, tides

— island

— rock

Cortes island

Cosby point - - -

Cottam reef - - -

Cotton point

Courtenay river

Cousins inlet

Cove island - - -

Cowgitz coal mine -

Cowitchin district -

■ harbour -

anchorage

head

Cowlitz bay
Cox island -

— point, Clayoquot sound

— , Estevan island

Cracroft island

Cramer passage
Crane island

islets -

Cranstown point
Crawford anchorage
Creasy bay -
Crescent bay

, anchorage

, coast

point

jrib island -
Cridge islands

Page

- 435

- 48
87,39

- 113

- 309

- 185

- 333

- 368

- 30

- 199

- 69

- 501

- 491

- 65

- 52

- 53

- 52

- 216

- 222

- 189

■ 199

- 154

- 168

- 160

- 366

- 234

- 503

- 73

- 72

- 78

■ 53

- 62

- 268

- 295

- 463

- 215

- 233

- Ill

- 264

- 357

- 198

- 247

- 23

- 497

- 501

- 78

- 236

- 413

Cridge passage
Crispin rook
Croker island

— rock -

Cross islet, Malaspina inlet
■ -, Portland canal

ledge -

— — point -
Crown islet -
Cruice rock -
Culleet river
Cullen harbour

-, anchorage
-, tides

Gumming point

Cumshewa, inlet

■ — anchorage

island
rocks
village -
to Spit point

Cunningham island -
— — passage

Curlew rock
Current passage
- point

, directions

Currents, Vancouver island. West
coast ....
Curtis point, Estevan island

, Simoom sound

rock - . - -

Custom house point

Cutter creek

Cuttle gro<ip . . .

Cypress bay - - . .

, anchorage

Page

446

142

259

' 185

- 481

■ 377
377
108
403

• 338

• 237
237

■ 238

■ 390

■ 500

■ 501

• 500

■ 500

• 501

■ 501

• 871

• 421

■ 421

- 418

• 209

■ 254

10
462

cone
• harbour

" -, anchorage
— — — — , tides

, water

island. Lama passage
, Rosario strait

reef

Dffidalus passage
Dalkeith ]>oint
Dall patch •

463
865
230
330
298
298
122
243
244
244
244
371
122
123

222
253
372

INDEX.

539

Dall patch, caution •

Dallas mount

— — shoal - - "

Dana inlet - - -

Danger patch

. reef

■ rock, Barclay sound

leading
mark

-, Cow litz bay

, caution

-, Nuchalitz inlet

Page

372

' 498

■ 386

■ 281

281
63
63

315

> rocks,

, leading

mark
Houston Stewart
channel
-, Quatsino sound
-, Quatsino sound,
leading marks

' shoal. Sea otter group
-, Spieden channel

Darcy island
Dark cove -
— — island -

islet -

Daring point
Darwin sound

-, tides

Davenport point
David channel
— — rock -
Davidsun island
■ - — rock

Davis bay

-, anchorage

Dawes point - - -

— — rock - - -

Dawson ledge

point

Day point - - -

Dayman island

Deadman islet

Dead Tree point

Dean canal - - -

Deans point . - -

Decatur island

Deception channel -

- island

■ pass, Clayoquot sound

, Fuca strait -

De Courcy islands

315

489
339

339
351
59
50
178
301
454
405
495
496
447
290
250
237
119
119
119
412
412
394
394
375
80
451
502
367
432
107
299
121
301
120
94

Deep bay, Baynes sound

■ , Desolation sound ■

, Milbank sound

cove, Howe sound

, Saanich inlet

■ harbour

-, tides

inlet ...

pass - . -

patch - - .

, clearing mark -
Deep-sea bluff
Deep-water bay
Deer creek - - -

harbour

, — , anchorage

island, Beaver harbour

, Lama passage -

islands - - .

mound - - •

passage. Calm channel
-, Lama passage

point, Chemainos bay -

, Principe channel

Defeat point -
Defiance point
De Horsey island
De la Beche inlet -
Deluge point
Denman island

, caution

Dennis rock - - .

Denny island

rock

Dent island -
Departure bay

, buoy

, directions

Derby or New Langley
Deserted bay

■ creek

Deserters islands
Desolation sound
Despair point
Destruction island -
Detached island
Devastation channel

island -

Devil rock - . -

rocks, Dixon entrance

Devils point

Page
157
187
380
166
71
238
238
325
298
430

' 430

- 238

■ 204
' 302

113

• 114
' 221

371

• 275

■ 409

■ 195

• 371

■ 76

■ 451

- 372

• 29

- 406

- 494

- 491

- 155

- 165

- 120

- 367

- 353

- 197

- 147

- 148

- 135

- 178

- 313

- 250

- 187

- 451

- 20

- 383

- 301

- 413

- 351

- 437

- 444

540

INDEX.

Diamond point
Diana island
Dick mount -
Dickens point
Dickenson islet
- point
DickRon island
Digby island
Dillon point •

vock -

Dimple point
Dinner island

islet -

■ point
Disappointment inlet
Discovery island
, light

' passage

■ port

-, directions
-, soundings
-, tides

directions -
tides

■ rocks

Disney point
Disraeli mount
Dixie cove -
Dixon entrance

-, dangers
-, soundings
tides

island

Dobbin bay -
Dockyard island
])odd island

-- narrows

— , anchorages -
— , directions -
", tides
False

passage

rock - - -

Dodger cove

, sealing station

Dog island -

Dog-fish bank

bay

Dolomite narrows -

Dolphin island

Domville island

Page

- 116

- 276

- 172

- 481

• 252
219

- 241

- 407

- 222

- 258

• 453

- 98

- 72

- 56

- 299
. 46

- 46
200-204

- 205

- 200

- 26

- 376

- 62

- 479

• 325

- 437

- 440

- 453

- 241

- 341

- 289

93, 149

- 94

- 93

94, 149
94, 149

- 424

- 421

- 282

- 497

- 507

- 480

- 492

- 466

- 67

Don flat - - ' '-

island - - -

ledge - - -

■ point ...

Donald head

Donegal head

Double island, Barclay sound

, Clayoquot sound

, Esperanza inlet

■ , Laredo sound

, Toba inlet -

islands, Clio channel
, Orcas sound

■ islet point -

• islets

Page
397
878
449
442
248
219
291
801
319
442
189
230
114
474
181
SIO
393

Douglas bay ...

■ channel, British Columbia -

- " ■ ' , British Columbia,

tides - 395, 396

, Georgia strait - 100
' ' Georgia strait

directions 101, 102
■■ -■ -, Georgia strait,

tides -

coal wharf •
harbour

' mount
rock

directions

Dowager island
Downes point
Doyle island
Drayton harbour

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, tides

Drew harbour

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, water

pass
rock

Drummond mount -
Drury inlet ...
Dsoolish bay
Ducie island, Chatham sound

, Pacific ocean -

Duck cove - - .

Dutf island -

Dufi'erin island

Duncan bay, British Columbia

101

• 147
. 518

• 518

• 52
206

• 378
163
264
126
126
126
126
192

' 192
192
192
195
57
210
245
357
435

13,14
230
237
460
416

INDEX.

Page
Duncan bay, British Columbia, dangers

416

-, directions

island

— — rock
Dundas inlands
Dundivan inlet
Dunlop point
Dunsany passage
Duntzo head
■ rock

Dusky cove -

Duval point
Duwamish bay
Dyke beacon
— — point -

416
-, Discovery passage - 202

, anchorage 202

. 258

- 19
433, 434

- 373

- 163

- 247
37
20

- 234
■ 234

- 257

- 29
. 38

- 38

, tides

Eagle island

point -

Ealwha river

Earl ledge -

Earthquakes

East bay

— — cove - - -

— Entrance reef -
Haycock

— — passage

— — point, Prevost island -

— — — , Saturna island •
, light

— rock, Ilakai channel -

— — , Nasparti inlet -

— - sound - - -

Easter island

Eastern channel, Barclay sound

• 221

- 119

- 24

- 211
40, 220

- 381

- 342

- 324

- 268

• 342

- 486
51, 129

- 51

- 456

- 332

- 116

- 273

Easy creek -

E cha chets village

Echo harbour

— island -

— • islets -

Eclipse island

■ II narrows n.

Ecstall inlet

Eden island - - -

—. point - - -

Edensaw cape

Edge reef -

Ediz hook -

, fog signal
, light -

Edmond islands

Edmund point

Edward reef, Cluster reefs -

rock, Barkley sound

Edyo passage

, directions
, tides -

Eel reef . . -

Effingham inlet

Egg island . - -

, False

■ rocks - - -

Elbow island

point . - -

rocks

Eldon mount

Eleanor point

Electric telegraph, Burrard inlet

, Esquimalt

~ , Gabriola pass

, Nanimo -

, New Westminster

I , Vancouver town -

-, directions
280
327
295
496
174
251
445
255

541

Fagc

■ 406

■ 236

- 208
• 512

- 873

- 24

- 24
. 24

- 245

- 363

- 355
286

- 429

- 430

- 217

- 286

- 362
. 354

- 353

- 285

- 72

- 284

- 207

- 81
3, 137

- 95
3, 145

145
139

I eak
port

- rock

— rocks

-, Victoria - - 145

-, sub-marine, Bunard

inlet 141

— , Fuca

strait 25, 43
,general3,40

, Georgia

strait 95, 137

North-

149
323
252
320
402
13
403
229
230
402
252

umberland channel
Eliza dome . - - -

island -

— — port - . - -

Elizabeth island, Arthur passage
' , Pacific ocean

-, anchorage -

542

INDEX.

Elk bay

Ellen bay . - -

— — island . - -

EUerslie channel

Elliot passage

Elliott island

point -

Ellis bay -

Emily group

— — islet . - -

Emma passage

End hill

Enfield rock

English bay

, anchorage

.directions

— — , tides •

Enterprise channel -

Enterprise channels, directions

— reef

, beacons

Entrance anchorage
■ - bank

bluflf

■^— — island, Barclay sound

, Laredo sound

, Nauaimo -

, , light

-, Quatsino sound

, Secret cove

, Selwyn inlet

— mountain -

— mount point

— point

— reef, Qlawdzeet bay
, Boiling roadstead

— rock

shoal

Entry cone - - -

ledge -

peak - - -

Erasmus islands
Erie mount -
Escalante point
Escape island

reef, Johnstone strait

, Stuart channel -

Page

- 205
. 83
. 488
. 366
< 229

• 402

- 471
. 255

■ 252

- 471
. 451
. 412

- 137

- 138
. 138

- 43

- 44

- 56
. 56

- 276

- 201

- 392

• 282
441, 460

- 143

- 338

- 174
. 499

- 339

• 339

- 74

■ 433

■ 319

- 151

- 108

• 358

• 31

• 439

- 198

• 120

• 309

- 232

• 214
- 77

leading
mark

reefs

Esperanza inlet

77
418
317

Esperansa inlet, directions -

'■ — , tides
Espinoza arm ...

Esquimau, directions from Race

islands *-
Esquimau, directions from Race

islands by night -
Esquimau harbour - . .

, anchorages

, coal supply

, directions

, dock

' , electric telegraphs

, observation spot

■ , population

^— — , supplies -

, tides

, water

, winds -

Page
891
822
321

Essingtou port

Estero basin
Estcvan island

ledge

point

sound

-, anchorage
-, tides ■
-, winds

-, soundings
-, tides

Ettrick rock
Evans arm -
, anchorge

Eveleigh island
Evening point

■ - rock

— — — rocks -
Ewing island
Exposed arm

Fair harbour
Fairfax point
Fairway channel

island

■ ■ rock
False bay, Clayoquot sound

34
87
89
38
39
37
38
39
38

- 38
37,89
- 38

■ 37
405

■ 400

• 407
. 407

■ 198

■ 462

■ 449

- 308

- 448

- 450

■ 454

- 410

- 366

• 367

■ 193

■ 188

- 396

- 362

■ 234

• 103

- 398

• 458

- 826

- 69
148, 144

• 320

- 457
295

INDEX.

543

False bay, Laequeti island

, Lopez island
— — channel
— — creek -
— — Dodd narrows
—— Dungenesa
— — reef -

, Cone hill

, Egg island -

, Grassy islet -

, Stuart anchorage

Fane island -
Fanny bay

, anchorage

reef

Faraday island
Farewell cape
■ harbour

-, directions

-, tides

-, west passage

• ledge

Farrant island
Fauntleroy point
Fawn islet -
Fearney point
Ferrer point
Fidalgo island
Fiddle reef -

. ~ beacon -

Fife cape

. , anchorage

— inlet, directions -

— sound -
Fin island -

rock

Fingal island
— — ledges
Finlayson arm

■ channel -

, landmarks

, soundings

■ ■, tides -

' island
■ mount

Fire islands
Fisgard island

■ light -

Fish point -
— — rocks -
Fisher channel

Pago

- 178

• 108

. aao

- 137
94, 149

• 24

- 78

• 466

• 354

• 467

- 899
. 56

- 158

- 211
. 494

- 394
■ 225

• 225

- 226

- 225

- 394

- 446

- 109

- 114

- 176

- 315

- 117

- 45

- 506

• 239
. 236

• 446

- 460

■ 460

- 72

- 383

■ 384

• 384
388, 395

- 419

- 60
. 232

- 38

- 36

- 469

- 356

- 366

Fisherman cove, Gil island -

. , Ursula channel

Fishing bay
Fitz island
Fitzhugh sound

-, directions

Fitz Roy reef

Five-fathoms shoal - - -

Five-finger island - - -

Flat islands Georgia strait -
, Skincuttle inlet

islets - - - -

point, Graham reach -

, Portland inlet

— ., Upright channel

— ~ rock
■ — island
Flattery cape
rocks

Flat top island, Middle channel

islands, Chatham sound

Georgia strait

— islets

— mountain

— point

Fleming port

Flora ridge - - -

Florence peninsula -

Flores island

Flower islet

Flower -pot island -

Flowery islet

Fly basin . . -

Fog islands ...

rock, Barclay sound

— rocks. Lama passage

Foggy point

Fogs, coast north of Vancouver

, Juan dc Fuca strait

Folly island ...

Fonts bank .

Forbes island

Ford point - - -

Forks of the Skeena river -

Forsyth point

, rock near

Fort point - - -

Fortune channel

point

Forward bay

Page
894
891
116
315
357
858
455
47

' 148

. 173
491
175
389

. 473

106

489

25C

■ 100

• 419

■ 142

• 302

■ 339
. 143

- 400

- 231

- 366

- 303

- 319

- 498

- 502

- 356

- 234

- 277

- 366

- 483

6
6

- 360
•• 49
' 291

- 72

- 404

- 488

- 473

- 300

- 420

- 215

644

INDEX.

Forward bay, anchorage

— — , caution

harbour -

, anchorage

— , tides

■ inlet

Forwood channel

Foster island . - -

pier - - - -

point . . .

Foul bay, Unnks island

^ , Vancouver island

islets . - - •

point. Anger island -

-^— — Vancouver island
Foulweather bluff and buoy
Fountains - - ■ -

Fox cape . . - -

islands, Queen Charlotte sound

, Slingsby channel

rock - - - -

Francis point . . -

Frank point . . -

Fraser bay - - -

reach

river -

, boat channel -

, directions

- — , ice

Page
215
21S
909
210
210
839
143
237

38
115
464

43
342
452

28
132
437
233
253

- 244

- 174

- 477

- 199
389-390
130-134

- 134

, New channel

-, North fork
-, tides -
., Sand heads
__ — __ , buoys

, fog bell

, light

Frazer island
Frederic point
Frederick arm

' island

islet

sound

Freke anchorage
Freshwater bay, Fucii strait -
, , Swanson island

• cove

Friday harbour

Friendly cove

-, anchorage

133
5
134
.directions 134

- 136

- 133

- 134
133, 134

133

- 133

- 32

- 194

- 198

- 516

- 252

- 255
• 184

- 23

- 225

- 243

- 99

- 310

-, anchorage

Friendly cove, directions

, supplies
Frigate bay
Frost island
Fulford harbour

-, anchorage

-, northern entrance

-, southern entrance

reef

Fury point

Giibriola island

• pass

, caution

-, directions
-, tides

• reefs

, beacon

, buoy

islands -

Galapa^
Gale crecK -

point -

Galiauo island, Georgia strait

, Goletas channel

Galley rock -
Gallows point
Gambier island
Gander islands

, caution
, tides

Ganges harbour

-, anchorage
-, directions •

Page

310

869

108

443

- 143

• US

87,95

- 95

- 96

- 142

• 142

- 143

- 14

- 373

- 451

- 80

- 259

- 289
144

- 170

- 461
> 462
• 463

- 81

- 82

Gap mouutaiu

Garden bay

Gardner canal

I.I mount

Garry bush (lea<ling tree) -

— — point - - -

Geneste cone

Genu islands

Geoffrey mount

George cape, Goschen island

— — — — , Washington territory

harbour

hill -

■ island
— — passage

177
391
136
134
134
210
403
155
466
26
492
422
259

287

INDEX.

54j5

George point, Jane creek

, Secret cove

, Virago sound

— — reef -

rock

Georgia strait

, caution

, (langerH

, directions

, general remarks

, north side

, southern shore

, tides -

, winds

Page

868

- 174
S12

- 251
355

12S, 15U

- 139

- 12H

- 164
• 128

165-180

- 142
- 12, 130, 150

8, 151
Gmrgina point, Malaspinu inlet - 184

, Mayne island - 86

— — , fog signal 85

, light 85

Gerald island - - - 153

Gerrans bay - - - 177

Gibraltar island - - - 284

Gibson islands - • ■ 400

GiflFord peninsula - - - 186

Gil island - - - - 446

mountain ... 445

Gilford island - - ■ 240

, rock off - - 229

Gillies bay . •■ - - 165

Gillot rock - - - - 219

Glacier Knight inlet - - 232

peak ... 232

Gladstone mountains - - 485

Glendale cove ... 231

.anchorage - .231

Glentborne creek - . -83

Glimpse reefs - - - 42

Gnarled islands, Chatham sound - 436

, Takush harbour . 356

Goat cove - - . . 386

islands ... 199

Gold harbour - - .499

river .... 312

Goldstream harbour - 362

— — , tides - . 36?

Goletas channel . 35 >

■ , directions - - 263

— — , tides 257, 267, 268

Gonzales hill . - - . 43

' point - - 44

Gooch island - - 67

Good shelter cove - - - 352

A 17498.

Goose island

islands

ledge

spit -

Gordon group

head

islen

^— — poinf, Cormorant island

, Cullon harbour

, li'iulayson island

river

Gore island -

rock -

Gorge harbour

anchorage
I directions

Gorges islands

Goscheu island

Gosling rocks

Gossip island, Active pass -

, Reid harbour

Governor rock
Gower point
GowUand harbour .

. island

islet

— — rocks

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, tides

Grace harbour

Graham island
reach

-, anchorage -
-, directions
-, tides

-, dangers

Granite islaud

point, Discovery passage

, SkincL'ttle inlet

Grappler creek

. reef

. sound

Grass point -
Grassy island

islet, Chatham souno

, Seafortli chanuo

point

Grave point. Lama passage •

, Sansum narrows

Gravel spit ...

Paga

45'.»

461

160

258

489

218

237

420

312

937

190

188

429

459

166

' 201

■ 203

■ 201
. 202

■ 201

■ 283

- 294

■ 186

- 187

- 186

• 187

■ 486

■ 388

• 389

■ 329

• 204

- 491

- 274

- 79
247
346
284

- 409

- 372

- 160

- 368

- 74

- 108

M M

516

INDEX.

Graves port

-, directions
-, tides -

Great Bank - - -

— — Bear islet

— — Chain islet

— Race island -

Grebe cove . - -

Green bank -

—^ — cove - - -

— — , water -

head - - -

inlet -

— — islet, Chatham sound -

, Nimpkish river -

, Skiucuttle inlet -

— islets, Bargiin harbour
, Portland canal -

■ point, Kemano bay -
, Spieden island

■ ■ rock -
Green-mound island
Green-top island
I islet

Greenway sound
Gregory island
Grenville channel -

-, tides

Grey islet, Chatham sound -

, Chatham sound, sunken
rocks near
— , Desolation sound

Page

- 170

- 171

- 288

- 45

- 33

- 233

- 116

- 278

- 279

- 330

- 389

- 436

- 217
. 491

- 175

- 483

- 392

- 58

- 232

- 421

- 410

- 452

- 243

- 244

- 396
395, 899

- 436

. islets - - -

• point -

• rock, New chanael
-, Winchelsea group

Gribbell island, Metlah catlah
, Wright sound
Grief bay - - -

— — • point, Banks island -

— — , Britist Columbia

GriflBn bay -

-, anchorage

— , directions
— , tides

' mount

Grismond poiut
Grouse island
Growler cove
Guadalupe island
Guano rocks

- 436

- 187

- 359

- 136

- 2C4

- 153

- 414

- 390
358, 455

- 464

- 180

- 97

- 98
• 98
. . 98

- 409

- 198

- 201

- 215

- Id

- 449

Guaquina or Muchalat arm
Guemes channel

■ island
Guide islet -

islets -

Gull reef

rock, Carpenter bay

— , Fife inlet

Gull rocks -
Gunboat bay
harbour -

passage

Gunner harbour

Haddington island

reef

Haida Indians

point

Hail islands
Hains island
Hakai channel

Page

312

117

121

' 452

. 190

' 490

' 238

■ 410

■ 177
• 400

■ 371

■ 302

, directions
-, soundings -

Half-tide rock, Clayoquot sound

., Griffin bay -

, Lopez sound

Halibut bank
bay

, anchorage

— channel
-- rocks

Hall island -

point

Halstead island
Hammersley island -
Hammona rock

rocks

Hanbury island
Hand bay -
— — island
Handyside island
Hankin ledges

I poiut, Harney channel

, Principe channel

, Quatsino sound

reefs

rock

Uanmor rock - r ,

- 219

- 293
435, 519

- 114

- 226

- 282
361, 456

- 458

- 458
297

97
108
495
481
481
328
464

89
198
258
247
435

30
247
247
289
373
454
115

45.;

345
424
800
432

INDEX.

547

Page

- 351

- 215

- 224

- 453

- 225
- island, Eliza port - - 320

Klick tso atli harbour 370

, Uchucklesit harbour 278

, Welcome harbour

Hannah rock
Hanson island
Harbledown island -
Harbour bank
cone

— ledge

— reefs

~ rock, Coghlan anchorage

, Griffin bay -

, Massacre bay

Harbourmaster point
Hardinge islaud
Uardwicke island -
Hardy bay

island

Harlequin basin
Harney channel
Ilaro archipelago

strait

, anchorages

, directions

-, tides

-, western channels of

Harriet harbour

island

Harris island

islet

Harrison river
Harry point
Hurvell point
Harvey port

, directions

, tides -

Harwood island
Has keious island -
Hastings arm
, directions

mill

— village

Hat hill
— — island -
Hatch point
Havanuah channel

-, anchorage

Havelock rock
Hawkesbury island
Hawkins island

457
457
424
395
98
115
368
206
211
223
177
363
115
17
49
53
50
53
64
491
491
45
252
131
70
256
213
214
214
180
510
477
477
139
140
453
332
70
213
214
410
391
8-1

Hay point, Bedwell harbour

, Simpson port

Hayes point

Haycock island, Big bay

Page

- 57

- 426

- 245

- 418

-, sand bank near

418

-, Estevan island

■ islets
• rocks

Haystacks rocks
Hazleton
Head bay -
Headwind point
Health bay
Heath point
Hecate bay
, water

462
268
462
331
405
313
451
233
261
298
298
320
459
343
361
282
297
47

channel, Esperanza inlet

, Seaforth channel

cove

■ island

■ passage, Barclay sound

, Clayoquot souad

, Inner channels

• ' — , direc-
tions 48

— — _^_ .leading

mark 47

- 456

- 416

- 267

- 507

- 519

- 507

- 507
12, 507

- 265
• 455

- 276
84

- 56

- 209

- 498

- 375

- 168

- 158

- 519

- 430

- 61

- 177

- 51.')

- reefs

• rock, Duncan bay -

, Goletas channel

■ strait

, fishing banks -

, shoal -

, soundings

, tides -

Hedley islands

patch

Helby inland
Helen point

, beacons

Helmcken island
Helmet island

Henry bay

, anchorage

— cape

island, Edye passage

, Ilaro Btrait -

point

llenslung povc

M M 2

548

INDEX.

Henslung cove, anchorage

, tides
Hepburn point
Herbert arm
— - — . island
~- point
- reefs
Heriot islet
Hermit islet
Hernando island
Hesquiat bluff
' harbour -

- bar

-, directions
-, tides
-, water -

Hewitt rock
Hewlett bay
Hicaron island
His Kish narrows -
Hi ellen river
High boulder

— island
Highest island
High-water rock
————— rocks. Banks island

, Lowe inlet

Highway island

Hill island, Barclay sound -

— , Shute pasi'age -

, Sutil chanm?] -
Hiliingdon point
Hippa island
Hla tad zo woh
Hobbs islet
Hodgeb reef
Hodgson reefs

, leading mark

Hoeya sound

Ho hoae island

Holdsworth mount -

Hole in the wall

Holford islands

Holland island

Holland point, Malftspina inlet

.— , Vancouvers island

Holloway point
Holmes bay

— , anchorage

, tides -

Homalko river

Page
515
515
397
305
265
455
401
192
290
182
307
307
307
307
307
307
387
318
15
387
508
162
232
323
115
464
397
360
276
67
194
184
517
514
296
370
417
417
231
325
217
808
237
410
186
41

- 342

- 393

- 394
394, 396

. 196

Home island
Homfray channel -
Hood canal

point

Hoop reef - - -

Hooper island
Hope, town of -

is'and - - -

point

Hopetown passage -

Horace point. Forward harbour

, Waddington channel

Hornby island

point

Home lake - - -

Hor-iet passage
Horse rock
Horse-shoe bay

, anchorage -

HorswcU bluff and buoy

Hoskyn inlet

Hotham sound

Hot Spring island -

House island, Juan Perea sound

, anchorage

495

, Queen Charlotte sound 232

Houston island - - - 107

passage - - - 89

, anchorage - 90

Stewart channel - 487-489

, anchorage 488

, from the

Page
169
188
28
166
352
246
131
262
170
247
209
. 188

• 155

• 487
155

' 239

235

• 76

■ 147
193
178
494

■ 494

eastward
_____ , from the

westward
Howe sound . - .
Hudson island. Arrow passage
. . ., Telegraph harbour -

' point

Hulah ledge
Hull island -

, caution

Hummock islets
Humphrey rock
Humphries reef
Hundred islands
Hunt point -
Hunter island

point

Hurst island

488

489
165
235

119

213
213
487
240
292
286
408
361
617
264

-:%: .

INUEX.

64i9

f'l

Hurtado point
Huston inlet

island

Hutt island -
Ilutton inlet
Huxley island
Hyacinthe bay
Hyndman reefs

Page
181
491
235
170
494
493
193
373

Ibbetson cape - - - 429

Ice Fraser river . - - 5

— inlets north of Vancouver island 6

— Nass and Skeena rivers 6, 404, 475

Iceberg bay

, anchorage

, directionn

Idol islet

point - - .

Image island

point

Indian cove, Blunden harbour

— , Upright channel

island, Bull harbour

— -, Clayoquot oound

, Nowish cove -

-, Trincomalie channel -

— ~ islands

- passage - . .

point . . -

Ingraham port ...
Inman point . , .

Inner Bajo reef

basin, Mary basin

channel, Nanaimo

channels, British Columbia -

, Vancouver island -

— ^— , Vancouver island,

directions -
, Vancouver island,

tides
Inner island -

watern, cape Mudge to

Pacific

navigation

— , supplies
— , water -

Inner Low rock
Insect island
Inskip channel
-r— — islands or ropks

474
474
474

79
374
290
503
352
106
262
301
384

92
229
2;j8
114
516

61
314
316
148
350
43

- 48

- 497
the
268, 269

- 268

- 269

- 490
• 286

- 617

- 36

Inpkip passage

point

Inverness fishery
Invisible point
Iron point -
Ironside island
Isabel bay -

island

■ , rock off

Isabella point

Island bay, Bumaby strait

, Nootka sound

— cove -

— harbour

-, anchorage

-, directions

, tides

-, Harbour entrance

, South entrance

point - - .

Islet point, Cramer passage -

, Carpenter bay -

rock ...

Ivory island

Jackson bay

passage

Ja', un river-
James bay -

cape - - -

— — island, Haro strait

, Prevost harbour

— ^^— -, Rosai-io strait -

mount

point, Lowe inlet

, Quatsino narrows

, Saanich peninsula

- , Wells pass

— rock

--, clearing mark -

Jane creek

-, anchorage

island -

Japan

Jeanette island
Jemmy Jones islet
Jenkins island
Jennis baj' -

point-

Jervis ijilet -
, tidob

Page
425
512
401
507
490
359
186
415
415
81
492
313
302
284
285
285
285
285

- 285

- 235

- 233

- 490

- 443

- 373

- 210

- 384

- 514

- 84

- 261

- 65

- 58

- 121

• 240

- 397

- 344

- 71

- 242

- 354

- 368

• 368

- 386

- 139

- 250

- 47

- 172

- 246

- 105
175-179

- 180

550

INDEX.

Jervis inlet, western entrance
Jesse island, Departure bay •

Page
177
147

, Juhnstone strait

■ reef and
buoy

Joachim island
Jocelyn range
Joe cove
John port -
■ , tides

— reef

, leading mark

Johns island
Johnson channel
Johnstone reef
- strait

, anchorages

, directions -

, tides

Jones island, Haro strait

, Middle channel

point -

Jordan river

Jorey point ...

Jorkins point

Josephine islands -

Josling peninsula

point

Juan de Fuoa strait

— , anchorages

~, directions

--, fogs -

— , lights -

— , soundings

--, tides -

— , tide race, caution

— . winds -

Juan Femandea
Juan Perez sound -

■ , anchorage

■ , directions

Judd rock -
Julia island -
Jumble island
Jumper island
Junction island
• passage

— - point

Junk ledge

147
211

■ 359

■ 378

■ 236

■ 366

■ 867

- 354

- 58

■ 366

- 52

- 206

- 207

■ 215

■ 207

67
• 100

- 353

■ 30

■ 512

- 383

■ 184

■ 518

■ 77

■ 17
17,18
20, 32

- 18
18

- 10
33

13
494
495
495
355
87
229
238
312
283
184
464

Kah tsis illu

Ka kae kae village -

Ka klees ka -

Kak oh village

Ka koosh dish creek

Kakweiken river

Ka mas ik -

Kamux island

Ka pi lish -

Karlukwees village -

Karmutseu lake

Karslake point

Kate island - . -

Keats island

Keith island, Drury inlet

, Island harbour-

Kellett blufif
■ island

or Hulah ledge

Kelp bar, Baynes sound

-, buoys

Page

- 253

- 187

- 350

- 514

- 370

- 240

- 376

- 226
358

- 227

- 217

- 358

- 235

- 168

- 246

- 284

- 61

- 119

- 119
156, 159

- 156

-, leading marks

bay -

• head - . -

• islet -

■ ledge - . -

passage

• patfih -

' point. Banks island

, Goldstream harbour

, Sansum narrows

reefs

buoy

rock -

rocks -

Kelsemart village
Kemano bay
, tides

river
■ valley

Kendrick arm
Kennedy island
Kenneth passage
Kent island -
Keppel cape
Kerouart islets
Kliutze arm -

, anchorage

Khutzeymatcen inlet
Kilawalaks -
Kildala arm -

156
274
357
291
464
402
385
464
362
74
50
50
414
223
296
392
392
392
392
310
401
247
264
72
487
389
389
472
^8
399

INDF':X.

^ ~ T

OJi

Kilkite tribe

Kiltik

Kimswit river

Kincolith mission station

King island . - -

islets - - -

Kingcombe point •
Kingconic inlet
, anchorage -

mountains

Kingfisher eove

Kinghorn island

Kin gui isliind

Kinnahan islands

Kinnaird island

Kiokh

Kioo sta village

Kispaioks village

Kit a kauze village -

Kitimat arm

— — — indians, language -

village

Kititstu hill -

Kit kat lah village -

/anchorage -

Kit kia tah inlet

■■ -, anchorage -

Kit lah kum ka dah village -
Kitlup indians
Kit niin i ook village
Kitsagatla - - -

Kit sah watl
Kitson inland

Kitsumgallum river and trail
Kitten island
Kitty islet -

patch - ~ •

Kiwash island
Klaholoh rock
Klaskmo inlet

Klaskish inlet

— , directions
— , tides
— , water

-, directions
-, tides

Klas k^vun point
Klekane arm

. , anchorage

Klemtoo passage

- — , anchorage

Pago

518
365
367
473
276
55
390
244
244
244
492
187
500
410
243
231
514
405
475
392
427
393
441
452
468
393
393
475
392
475
405
476
410
405

344
43

382

362
23

335

336

337

336

334

335

513

390

385

Klemtoo passage, directions -

, tides

Klewnuggit inlet

, anchorage
, directions -

^—— , soundings -

, tides

Kiick tso atli harbour

Klue village
Klun kwoi bay
Knapp island
Knight island

inlet

, tides

-, anchorage

Knox bay

-, tides

cape - . -

point - - .

Koikia point

Kokshittle arm

Komas bluff

Koprino harbour

Koskeemo bay

Kuhushan point

Kultus cove

Kum ea Ion inlet

Kung village

Kun ga island

Kuper island, Queen Charlotte

lands . - .

Kuper island, Stuart channel
Kwakshua passage -

rock

Kwatua arm

Kwatsi bay - - .

Kxn geal inlet

Kynumpt harbour

, tides

Kyuquot channel

hill

sound

, directions -
, tides

Labouchere channel, Dean canal

Page

- 38G
385, 388

- 398
398

- 398

- 369

- 370

- 498

- 497
-• 68

- 414
227-231

- 228

- 208

- 516

- 42?

- 23
■ 326

- 162

- 341

- 342

- 164

- 343

- 400

- 512

- 497
is-

- 518
75, 80

361, 456

- 456

- 364

- 239

- 390

- 373

- 324

- 323

- 327

- 328

367

-,Queen Charlotte
sound

Lady island -

islands

Lagoon eove

- 248

- 378
' 229

- 824

wfwmm

wmmm

552

INDEX.

Lake island

Page
375

-, white rocks
end -

off sonth

Lak hou
Lak oh witz
Lama passage

-, tides

Lamh islet -
Lambert channel

-, anchorage
-, caution

— island

Lancelot arm
Landslip mountain -

point, Eraser reach

, Portland canal

Langford point

— port

Langley, town of -
Lanz island - - -

Larcom island
Laredo channel

, directions -

, soundings -

• sound

, coast -

, directions

, landmarks

, soundings

, tides -

Large Gander island
Larking island
Lascellcs point
Laskeek bay

or Klu village

Lasqueti island

Lassiter bay

Latona passage

Laura point - - -

Lawn hill - - .

point, Brooks bay

, Skidegate

, to Rose point -

Lawrence islands -

point

Lawson blufE
-— harbour

-, anchorage ■

reef -

rock

Lawyer group

- 381

- 417

- 411
367-371

- 368

- 400
' 161

- 162

- 165

- 243

- 186

- 473

- 390
482, 484

- 488

- 316

- 132

- 268

- 477

- 443

- 444

- 441

- 441
• 443

- 441

- 442

- 444

- 461

- 290

- 257

- 497

- 498

- 172

- 256

- 170

- 84

- 505

- 337

- 502

- 505

- 297
113, 123

- 103

- 402

- 121

- 109

- 403

Lazo cape - - -

Leading bluff

cone

hill, British Columbia

, Esperanza inlet

island. Dusky cove-

, Klewnuggit inlet

— — , Kyuquot sound

, Skidegate -

, Welcome harbour

■ mountain -
peak, Chatham sound

, Howe sound -

, Saanich inlet

-, Welcome harbour

» point, Chatham islands
, Knight inlet

, Nass river -

, Portland canal

, Ucluelet arm

, Whale channel

Lechc .oiand

Ledge point, Gil island

, McNeill port -

— rock -

Lee rock
Leech island

river -

Legge point
Lemon mount

point

Lennard island
Leonard point
Lepas bay -
Letitia point
Lewis channel
, tides

island, Arthur passage
, Queen Charlotte sound

' passage

, tides

■ reef -

- — , beacon •

rocks -

Liddell point
Liddle island
Ligar island
Light, Admiralty head

, Atkinson point

, Beale cape -

— — , Berens islaqd

Page

168

277

334

250

319

234

398

325

503

467

307

409

167

456

229

474

481

292

447

246

445

217

234

385

259

26S

295

218

516

395

183

401

224

446

895

248

478

246

137

274

INDEX.

563

Light, Discovery island

— — , Bast point, Saturna island -

, Edizhook or False Dungcncss

, Entrance island, Nanaimo

, Fisgard island

, Fraser river, Sand heads

— — , Georgina point

, New Duugeness

, point No point

, Race islands -

, Smith or Blunt island -

, Tatoosh

, West point -

, Wilson point -

Lighthouse island -
, . , ledge

• buoy

Lilooet lakes

Lima point - - -
Limestone island, Otter cove
, Quatsino sound

islands

point

rock

Limit island

point, Smith sound -

. , Victoria harbour

Lina island - - -

Linlithgow point

Lion rock -

Little group

Littleton point

Lizard point, Malcolm island

. ■-, Portland inlet

Lizzie hill -

Lockhart creek

Lofty island

Log point, Queen Charlotte islands

, Winter harbour -

Logan inlet

point -

Lone cone . - -

Long arm - - -

— - bay

. , caution -

harbour

island. Barrier group -

, CuUen harbour

, Lopez island

-, Ogden channel

, Starfish group

Page

143

133

118

' 143

143

144

179

■ 407

■ 200

■ 342

■ 500

- 277

■ 493
• 460

- 355

- 40

- 602

- 247

- 185

- 67
. 230

- 237

- 473

- 422

- 373

- 454

- 517

- 340

- 498

- 481

• 298

- 502

- 294

• 88
355

- 237

- 105

- 467

- 456

Long island, Stuart channel
— — point. Lady island

, Smith sound

Loo rock ... -

Look-out island, Barclay sound

, Clan uinick harbour

Lopez island
sound

-, anchorage
-, directions
, tides -

Lord island -

islands -

rock -

Loughborough inlet-

Louie creek -
Louisa islet -
point

-, tides

rock . . -

Louise island

Louscoone harbour - ^

Low cone ...

island, Kynampt harbour

, Laskeek bay

, Miners channel

, Wasp channel -
— — islets ...

peninsula

point, Dowager island -

, Griffin bay

, Laredo sound -

-, Nass bay

rock, Esperanza inlet
, Laredo sound

— Black rock
Lowe inlet -

, anchorage

■ — , landmarks
, supplies -

, tides

— , water

Lucan islands

Lucy island ...

village (Tartanne)

islands

rock .

Lulu island
Lummi channel
'• island

-, ledge of rocks

Pago
76
382
355
363
291
329

- 105
105-107
108, 109

- 107

- 108
• 316

- 437

- 198

- 199

- 316

- 239

- 209

- 81

- 499

- 487

- 330

- 372

- 499

• 66

• 102

- 340

- 295

- 378

- 98

- 442

- 473
319

- 442

- 491

- 397

- 398
398, 399

- 398
• 259

- 515

- 516

- 411

- 184

- 136

- 117

- 124

554

INDEX.

Luxana bay
Lyall harbour

-, anchorage
water

point -

Lycll island -
Lynch cove -
Lyre river -
Lytton town

MaoBt Island
Macaulay point
Macdonald point

ridge

Mackaye harbour

, directions

Mackenzie sound
Maclaughlin point -
Madison port
Maggy point
Magin islands

saddle

Magnolia point

Mail communication 40, 73, 137,
Main passage, Chatham sound
-, Lama passage

Malacca passage
Maliispina inlet

, directions -

tides

strait

Malcolm island

-, kelp patch -

Malksope inlet

MamalilacuUa village

Ma min river

Maple bay - - -

, tides

point, Baynes sound -

, Gil island

■, Portland canal -

Maquinna point

Marble creek

. rock -

Marchant rock - - '

Margaret point

Mariato point

Mark hill - - -

islet, Barclay sound -

, St. John harbour

Page

' 486

289

495

131

- 509

- 39

- 231

- 105

- 105
• 248

- 39

- 28

- 225

- 244

- 259

- 29
139, 145

- 436

- 370

- 403

- 184

- 187

- 173

- 219

- 219
330

- 226

- 511

- 74

- 156

- 447
7 482

- 309

- 844

- 450

- 463

- 255

- 15
. 315

- 275

- 380

Mark nipple

rock, John port

, Seaforth channel

Marmot river
Marrack island

rock

Marrowstone point -

Mars island - . -

Marsden islands

Marshall point

Martin island

Marvinas bay

, water

Mary basin - - m »

cove •

island, Desolation sound

, Georgia strait -

•, Malaspina inlet

, Milbank sound

, Pender harbour

pomt

rock ...

Marylebone point
Mary Todd islet
Maskelyne point
Massacre bay
Masset harbour

■ , directions -

■ , missionary station

— inlet

— sound
, tides -

— to Virago sound
———, anchorage

Pago
455
367
374
484
400
400
27
235
236
173
176
310
310
316
385
188
191
186
331
177
512
250
188
44
428
114
508
509
509
609-511
- 509

Masterman islands -

Mathieson channel -

Matia island -

Matilda creek

Matliksimtas

Matthew island

Maud island

Maude island, Georgia strait •

, Skidegate

• islet

Maunsell bay
Maury island

■ passage
Mauve islet -
May peninsula
Maycouk rock
May-day island

511
511
512
223
379
124
304
447
366
202
151
503
243
255
29
109
242
256
206
337

INDEX.

555

Maync bay -

island

— — passage
Mayor channel

-, directions

-island

Maze islands
McBridc bay
McCauley island
McEwan point
McGrath mount
McKay cove

reach

, tides -

reef

McLaughlin bay

- mission
-, tides

McLeod island
McNul bay -

farm

. mount
McNeill port

. . — , directions

Meadow island
Meares island
Melanie cove
Melville island
Menzies bay

Mereworth sound
Metlah catlah bay -

-, anchorage

I'agc

- 289
. 129

- 198

- 45
48

- 253

- 359

- 199

- 453

- 253

- 406

- 501

- 390
395,396

- 296

- 369
. 369

- 369

- 251

- 43

- 409

- 217

- 371

- 298

- 188

- 203

- 364

- 256

- 411

- 415

— , directions 412, 415, 416

— , population

— , tides

— , villages -

Mexicana point

Mexico coast

Mid rock

Middle bank, Haro strait

.—— , Lopez sound -

, Nauaimo

, buoy-

channel, Barclay sound

-, directions ■

- 412

- 417

- 412
. 262

15, 16

- 322

- 49

- 107

- 146

- 145

- 281
287
317

■i,»

-, Esperanza inlet
-, Haro and Georgia

straits - - 96

-, Ilaro and Georgia

straits, directions - 97

Page
Middle channel, Ilaro and Georgia

straits, tides - 98, 102

- 148
404, 406

- 26

- 318

- 460
266
465

- 433

- 461

- 373

- 413

- 228

- 256
375-379

- 379

", Nanaimo -

■ passage, Skeena river

■ point, buoy

• reef - - - -
, leading mark -

■ rock. Broken gi-oup -
-, Queen Charlotte sound

• rocks

. Dundas island

- Gander island

Midge reeft

rock -

Midsummer island -
Mignon point
Milbauk sound

, directions

., fogs

, landmarks

— •, soundings

, tides

Mile rock

, breaker

Miles cone
Mill creek bay

stream -

■ , buoy
Millar group
Mills point -
Milly island
Miners bay -
— — channel

-, anchorage
-, reef in

Mink island . . _

point - . -

Mink Trap'bay - . .

Minor island beacon
Minstrel island . . .

Minx reef - - - -

Mission mountain - - -

point - - .

station. Alert bay -

. , Mas set

, McLaughlin bay -

, Metlah catlah

, Nass bay, KincoIIth

, river -

— , Skeena river

377
375
377
379
332
332
264
72
146
146
250
210
211
85
66
66
66
187
234
452
118
230
55
409
414
218
509
369
412
473
475
404
473

556

INDEX.

-, directions

Page
218
343
154
23G
219
518
518

- 182
. 435

• 221

- 326
447

- 54

• 236

- 341

- 391

- 393

- 167

- 87

• 189

- 493

- 141

- 141
. 141

- 140

• 486

- 518

- 618

- 519

Moresby island, Prevost passage 69
, Queen Charlotte island 490

-, Queen Charlotte islands,
mountains iu - 490, 497

Mist islands -

rock -

Mistaken island
Misty passage
Mitchell bay
Mitchell or Gold harbour

Mitlenatch island -
Moffat islands

rock

Moketiis island
Molly point -
Monarch head
Monday anchorage -

shoal

Money island

point

Montague channel -

_ — . --, anchorage

harbour -

Montreal
Monument rock
Moody port

, anchorage

railway

Moodyville
Moore head
channel

-, directions
> , tides

' islands
• passage

Moigan island
Morning reefe
Morphy rock
Morris bay

, anchorage

—— , directions

■ , supplies

, water -

-, directions
-, leading marks

' island

Morse island
Mosquito harbour -

, — , anchorage

'——, directions

518

188

396

253

382

883

382

383

883

245

300

301

Mosquito passage -
Moss passage
— ^— point •
Mouatt channel
, directions

Mouse island
rock

islets
point

reef, Cowlitz bay
, Enterprise channel

Muchalat or Guaquina arm -
— — — Indians -
Muckshwanne fishery
Mud bank -

islands

Mudge cape
— — island

, anchorage -

Muirhead islands
Mullins island
Mumford landing -
Murchison island -
Murray cape
— — — island

labyrinth -

Mussel inlet

rock

Mutine point
Mylor peninsula
Mystery rock

Naas glee village
Nab rock
Nabanhah bay
Naden cape
harbour

nver

tides

Nabmint bay
Nahwhitti bar

Naiad islet -
Nai koon -
Nakat inlet -
Nak wak to rapids

-, directions -
-, leading mark
-, tides

directions

Page

- 61

- 382

- 186

- 45

- 48

- 165

- 56

- 62

- 43

• 234
374, 376

- 312

• 312

- 478

- 341

- 474

- 164

- 93

- 94.

- 246

- 284

- 404

- 494

- 508

- 210

- 252

- 386

- 298

- 278

- 473

- 181

404
442
396
512
513
513
513
279
262
263
263
267
266
506
438
253
254

HfJiipPIWI

INDEX.

- 253

- 362
362, 458

- 362

- 363

- 363
Nanainio harbour - - - 144

; — , anchorage - 146

, buoys and directions

144, 145, 146

Nak wak to rapids, tides
Nalau island
— — passage
Namu harbour

.., anchorage

■■ , tides

, coal

, communication

, supplies -

, tides

. trade

NanooBC harbour

, anchorage

, directions

, supplies -

, tides

or Notch hill

Napier bay

point

Narrow island, Nootka sound

, Trincomalie channel

Narrowgut creek
Narrows arm

, island, Lama passage

, Sunday harbour

Nash bank - - -

Nasoga gulf
Nasparti inlet

Nass bay

-, directions
— , tides

-, anchorage

, caution -

, landmarks

, tides

indians
■ river

, directions

, fish

, ice

-, tides

Navy channel, directions

, tides

Nock islet. Gorge harbour -

, Uoche harbour -

point, Hritish Columbia

. , Shaw island

villages

Native anchorage
• point

Neeah bay -

, anchorage

, directions

- 146
• 145

- 146

- 148

- 146

- 151

- 152

- 151

- 242

- 369

- 310
90

- 325

- 179

- 370

- 235

- 163

- 472

- 331

- 332

- 333

- 473

- 474

- 473

- 474
475, 484
474-476

- 476

- 475
6,475

- 475

- 226

- 90
Navigation inner waters, cape Mudge

to Tftcific - - - 268

Navy channel - - - 56

— , tides

Needle peaks, Laredo sound

peak, Portland iidet

rock

Negro rock
Nelly island -
Nelson island
Nepean sound
Nettle basin

island

Neville islet
port

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, tides -

Nevoy island

New bank -

Newcastle island

New channel, Haro archipelago

, Queen Charlotte sound 263

— ■ , directions 266

667

Page

. 57

190

352

- 112

23
23

- 23

- 23
■ 441

- 470

- 318
. 224

- 237

- 178

- 450

- 397

- 285

- 185

- 211

- 212

- 371
■ 340

- 144

- 60

Dungeness bay

, anchorage
, tides -
, water

-, buoy

-, fog signal

-, light

• Langley - - -

■ patch

• rock - - - -

■ Westminister - - -

, supplies and coal

, tides

- , trade -

Newton mount
Nicholls island
Nickless island
Nickoll passage
Nicol rock -
Nicolas islands
Night islet -

25
26

135

351

190

134

135

245

239

230

146

2G0

229

568

INDEX.

Nile rock
Nimpkinh river

, tides
Nina hill
Nine-pin rook
NinstintH village
Nitiuiit lake -
Nob islet, Portland inlet
, Wasp passage
— — point, Alberni inlet

. , Klaskino inlet

' ' , Orcas island

Noble islets -
■ mountain
— — point -
Nodales channel
Nookhalk river
Nootka cone
li island
' sound
, aspect

— , directions
— , tides -

No point, point - - -

■ — , fog signal - - .

.light

Norman point, Lambert channel

— — , Pender harbour

Norris rock, Lambert channel
, Saanieb inlet -
North arm, Burrard inlet

, Clayoquot sound

■ bay, Middle channel -

— , anchorage

, Waldron island -

■— Bay islands -

— Bentinck arm -

— blufif

— breaker, Broken grouf'
-, Brown passage

■ channel, Clayoquot sound
— — — , Esperanza inlet

, leading

mark
Charlotte

-, Queen

sound
-, islands

— Danger rock -
rocks

Dundas island

Page
170
217
317
252
138
4S9
272
471
111
277
335
104
258
454
870
20C
365
809
314
808
309
313
309
28
28
28
161
176
161
71
141
304
297
98
98
63
442
364
126
460
432
302
318

818

251
443
339
464
434

North fork -

harbour

Iron rock

-, clearing mark

Page
' 130

- 340

- 352

- ;i52

-- island and group, Milbank

sound - 377, 378

, Queen Charlotte islands 515

— — — , Queen Charlotte islands,
anchorage

515
377
441
110

35S
380

ledges

Needle peak -

— — ■ Obstruction pass

passage, Fitzhugh sound

J Klemtoo passage

, Klemtoo passage, di-
rections - - 386

, Hamsayarm- - 195

, Skeena river 404, 406

, anchor-
age

-, Wasp passages

point, Milbank sound
, Nass bay

-, Queen Chailotte islands
-, Takush harbour

Pointers

reef - - - .

rock, Beaver passage

, Fulford harbour

, Nanoose harbour

, Queen Charlotte

sound
— — rocks - . - .

Surf islands . - .

Twin islet ...

Watcher islet

Northumberland channel
North-west bay ...

— — cone ...

rocks ...

Nose peak ....

point - - - -

Nowish cove ...

tides

Nnchalitz inlet

-, directions
-, tides

reef

Nugent sound
Numas islands
Numukamis bay

407
112
380
473
513
356
456

77
468

81
152

266
465
445
468
449
144
154
815
465
340
82
384
384
314
316
317
315
265
248
275

INDEX.

559

Nafio2 reef •
Nyo rock ■»

Page

437
265

Oak bay . . - .

Oar point - - - •

Oat so alia . • - ■

O'lJrien bay
Observation islet

i— — — ^ point, Coghlun anchor
age -
, Blakency port

, Glendalo cove

—— , Metlab eatlnh

, Shoal channel

, ledge

Observatory inlet

-, anchorage
-, soundings
-, tides

islet, Clayoquot sound -

, Friendly cove

, Koprino harbour -

, Stamp harbour -

ledge -

point -
rock

rocks -

Obstruction island, Clayoquot sound
', Orcas -

islet
passages

tides

Ogden channel

pass, north
, south

452
861
239

284

— , directions
— , landmarks
—, tides

point

Oke island -
— reefs

, clearing mark
Oke over arm
Old passage -
Oldfleld basin
— — — island

— mount

Olympia mountains -

395
381
231
414
169
414
476
476
476
478
298
310
342
279
394

24
340

30
304

- 109

- 257

- 109

- 110

- 466
468, 469

- 466

- 469

- 39

- 381

- 184

- 236

- 415

- 407

- 18

Olimpia, town of -
Ommaney itlet
O'Neal iKhind
One-fuihom patch -
(^ue-trce island

, ledge

islet, Jervis inlet •

, Shadwcll iiassago

•— — , Simpson port -

Oona bay . . -

river -

Open bay, Clayofinot sound -

, Fitzhugh sound

— — — — , Henry island

, Valdes island

, Vancouver N.W. coast

Orange point
Orcas island

nob - - •

sound, east

west

-, anchorage

t ■

-, anchorage

sounds

113

Oregon . . . -

Orford bay . - - -

Oriel rocks - - - -

Oriflumme passage - - -

, tides

Ormidale harbour -

Osborn bay - - - -

, anchorage

Osborne islands

Oscar passage . - .

Otter anchorage

channel

cove, Discovery passage

, Finlayson channel

island - - - ■

—— mountains

passage

— - point, Discovery passage

, Vancouver south coast

— shoal - - -

Wood cutting establishment

Otway mount
Ou ou kinsh inlet

— — > , nirections

■■ , tides

Outer island

Page

- 29

- 242

- 100

- 83

- \Vj

• 419

- 178

• 261

• 422

- 407
. 407

- 296

- 357

- 01

- 193

- 348

- 202
113,123

- 113

- 116

- 114

- 114
:116

17
196
188
436
436
371

75
431
384
420

85
450
205
384
187

80
450
205

31
395
420
242
330
331
331
376

560

INDEX.

Oval hill -
Owen island

point - - -

Owikino canning eBtablisliment
Owl island - - -

Oyster bay - - -

, anchorage

beds

harbour

, anchorage -

, reef in

. , tides

Ozzard mount

Pacific ocean
Paehena bay
Paddle rock -
Paddy passage
Palmer point
Palmerston cape
Pan point -
Panama bay

reef

Pandora head

. peak

Park hill -
Parke mount
Parker island

reef

Parkin islands
Parry bay -
, anchorage

' passage

Parson bay

-, directions
-, tides

-, anchorage

Parsons point
Partridge bank and buoy

point

, ledge, buoy

Pasley island

passage

Pass islet
Passage cone

island, Howe sound

, Mathieson channel

— , Wasp passage

Page

. 430

- 29
. 29

- 360

- 228

- 164

- 76

- 292

. 487

. 272

• 357

- 477

■ 286

- 34S

- 'i99
13-16

• 123
247

- 30

- 98

- 88

- 87

- 104

■ 428

- 86
" 36

• 514

- 516

- 514

- 224

- 31

- 27

- 26

- 27

■ 168

- 244

- 313

- 466
. 166

- 381

- 112

Passage island, Whale channel,

islet

— — rock, Clayoquot sound

, Howe sound -

, Wasp passage -

Page

448
228
296
168
111

Passages, Panama to Vancouver (auxi-
liary steam) 15

(sail) 14

— , Valparaiso to Vancouver

(sailing) 14
, Vancouver to Panama

(sailing) 5

, Vancouver to Valparaiso

(sail or auxiliary steam) 12-14
Patey rock

, clearing marks •

Patos island

Patrick passage

Peacock channel

Peapods ...

Pearce point

Pearl harbour

, anchorage -

, directions

island

— — rocks
Pearse channel

island

mountains

islands
' peninsula

Pearson island
Pedder bay

, anchorage

, tides

Peel island -

Peile point - - -

Pelly island

Pelorus point

Pemberton point

Pender harbour

, ijnchoragc -

, tid-.

island, liarclay sound

, Haro strait -

islands

Pendril sound
Pen fold island
PeuRuin island
Peninsula jwiut

anchorage -

.'0

102

242

289

123

431

420

421

351

. 478

470

• 470

■ 218
' 238

176
35
35

- 35

■ 222

■ 83
41

• 66

■ 239

- 176

- 177

■ 177

- 289
54-56

. 208

- 188

- 237

- 104

- 467

'■P9W'""''W.'-''!iWJ'wwi'i«

INDEX.

561

Penn islands
Penphrase passage
Penrose bay
— — — island
Percy anchorage

bay

island

, caution

ledge

point

Peril rock - - -

Perpendicular bluff

mountain

PeiTy bay - . -

rock . - -

Petrel channel

shoal -

Peveril rock

Philip point

Philips passage

Philipps arm

Phillimore point

Piers island

Pike island

Pilkey point

Pill islet

Pillar bay - - -

point

rock (Ilia tad zo woh)

Pilley shoal

Pilot point

Pilots

Pin rock ...

Piuche" rocks

Piue island

Pinnace channel

rock

Pinnacle islet
— — — - point
Pipestem inlet
Pirie point
Pitcalrn island
Pitt island
— river
Plover island

point, Fin island

, Mosqaito harbour

■ reefe

Plumper bay, Discovery passage

, Esquimal; harbour

■— channel

Page

- 194
. 245

- 185

- 358
93, 149

- 149

- 241
. 241

- 342

- 508

- 367
313

- 255

- 478

- 54

- 454

- 356

• 460

- 344
. 236

- 198

- 87

- 68

- 414

- 78

- 190

- 514

- 23

- 514

- 341

- 390
41, 148

- 318

- 489

- 265

- 325

- 285

- 339

- 330

- 290

- 483

- 13

- 450

- 135

- 362

- 446

• 300

- 296

- 204
37

45R

Plmnpor cove

, anchorage

, tides -

' harbour

-, anchorage
-, directions

' island
■ passage

-, directions
-, leading mark

reef
sound

tides
water

Plunger pass
Poett-nook
Pointer island
Pointers rocks
Poison cove
Pole islet

Polkinghorne islands
Pollard point
Polly island
Popham island
Popplewell point
Porcher island
Port reef -
Portage cove
Portier pass

, directions

, tides -

Portland canal

-, anchorage
-, climate
.-, currents
-, natives

, supplies

, temperature -

, tides

, timber, &c. -

island
inlet

— — , landmarl
-, soundings

point, PortlaiK' inlet
, Vancouver west

Portlock point
Positions, table of
Possession point
Pot rocks
Powell islets

Page

- 169

- 170

- 311

- 311
. 313

- 341

- 47

- 48

- 47

- 103

- 53

- 57

- 55

- 191

- 275

- 368

- 435

- 387
.. 370

- 241

- 238

- 186

- 168

- 242

- 403

- 457

- 186
87,90

- 91
90,91

- 478

- 485
5,479

- 479

- 480

- 479

- 485

- 479

- 68

- 470

- 473

- 472
coast 294

- 84

- 621

- 32

- 3-15

- 181

A 17498,

N N

INDEX.

Fowell point, rook off

Poyntz island

Preedy harbour

. -, anchorage

Page
233

210
80
80

429
58

Pre8Cott island
Prevost harbour

island, Queen Charlotte islands 486

, Swanson channel - 83

- 69

- 378
. 188

, tides - - 188

- 342

- 437

- 178

- 179

- 388

- 178

- 450
, anchorage - 454

-, directions - 454

-, soundings - - 454

-, tides - - 454

- 231
393, 394

— — — passage
Price islanti
Prideaux ha\on

— — »

..I point

Prince of Wales group

reach

Princess Louisa inlet

, Koyal island

■ reach

Principe channel

Prominent point
Promise island

ledge - - -

point, Blakeney port

, Coghlan anchorage -

Prosser rock . . -

Protection island, Barclay sound -

___-^ , Discovery port

, Nanaimo -

, , Squirrel cove

■ point

Providence cove

_ passage -

Pryce channel
Puffin islet -
Puget sound
Pully point
Pulteney point
Furnish
Punt rock -
Puntluch river
Purple bluff
Puzzle island
Pyladea channel

, anchorage

Pym island -
— rock -

394

381

394

265

284
26

144

183

231
30

228

195

124

219

231

2?5

161

459

284

238

Qlawdzeet anchorage

, directions
, tides -

Quadra hill -
Qual a qute
Qualicum bay
■ river

-, buoy off

Quamitchan valley and river
Quartermaster rock -
Quascilla village
Quiithiaski cove

, anchorage -

Quatsino narrows

, tidua

- rouua

, directions -
, tides

Page

- 432
. 433

- 433
. 88

- 459

- 155
. 154

- 154

- 73

- 413

- 356

- 200

- 201
344
344

-. 337
345-347

- 341

Queen Charlotte channt;!

-, directions

■ islands

sound

-, climate
-, natives
-, supplies
-, wind

I eastern shores
of -

Queen's cove
, water

reach, Fraser river -
, Jervis inlet -

sound

-, soundings

Quel ak sea hx

Quiet cove -

Quinamass bay

Quoin hill -

or Stoney mountain

166

166
483
5
519
519
10
220

223
320
32'

r •

■iw
4nB
393
342
472
359
241

Race islands

:;irK)W8

, fog signal
..light -

-, tides . - -

^;5;''.ainjalt and Victoria

800

JSJWifJWTO'-

INDEX.

563

Race passage, Broughton strait

, Johnstone strait

, Juan de Fuca strait

Page
218
209
33
point, Discovery passage - 203

, Portier pass - • 90

, Tumbo island - 51, 129

,rock off 51, 129

411
303
348
380
168
78
131
• 282

- 348

- 265

- 259
3,37, 135, 137, 139

- 381

Kachel islands

Rafael point

Raft cove . - -

Rage reef -

Ragged island, Howe sound

, Stuart channel

— islands

— islet

— point

— reef

Haglan point

Railways

Rain point - - - -

Rainy bay - - - - 283

li&n creek - - - - 373

Raleigh pr.rsa^e - - - 239

Ramsay arm - - 195

islaiid - - - 494

Ramsden point - - - 472

Ranger islet - - - 473

Ransom point - - - 211

Rapid hill - - - - 231

Raspberry cove - - - 488

islands • - - 406

Rayner group . . - 249

Raza island - - - - 195

Razor point - - - - 54

Read island- - - - 193

— — mount - - - - 240

Rebecca islet - - - 180

spit - - - 192

Red island - - - - 86

point - - - - 453

Red cliff point, Cunningham passage 420

, Graham

reach 389

Redfem island - - - 265

Redonda island. Broken group - 283

— islands. Desolation sound - 187

Red stripe mountain • - 326

Red-top mountain - - - 497

Reef bluff - - - - 167

island, Laskeek bay - - 499

, Portland canal 480

Reef island. Wasp group

islet

point, Cortes island

-, Cypress island

, Moresby island

, Newcastle island

, Quatsino sound

, Thetis island

Refuge bay, Edye passage -

■ , anchorage

, tides

cove, Chatham island

, Vancouver island

, direc-
tions -

____——— , sunken

rock in
Regatta rock

Reginald hill - - -

Reid harbour - - -

island - - - -

rock - - -

Remarkable cone mountain -

Rempstone rocks

Rendezvous islands - - -

— . , tides -

Resolution cove
Restoration cove

-, anchorage

Retreat cove

passage

Return channel

Reverdy Johnson mountains

Richard islet

point

rock

Richardson inlet

tider

■ point

Richmond bay

settlement

Ridge islands
Ring island -
Ripple bank, Big bay

Klemtoo passage

— bluff tide rip
~ islets

— passage

— point

— rock

— shoal

Page
111
275

189
122

69
147
338

78
431
431
431

40
303

304

SOT
372

57
206

99
360
450
195
195
311
304
304

87
232
371
484
251
476
290

■ 497
498
392
246
142
229
190
418

■ 386
229

■ 300

■ 250

■ 208
• 20S

■ 207

N N 'J!

564

INDEX.

Ripple tongue
Riteliie bay -

, directions

River bight -
Rivers inlet -
Robbers island

— nob

Robert point
Roberts bank
.. — point
, anchorage

-, directions

- spit

Robert?
Robinson . - •^

mount

. point, fog signal

Robson island

. reef

Roche harbour

Rock creek -

islet

Rocket shoal
Rock-£sh harbour
Rocky bay -

mountains

. pass -

-, anchorage
— , directions
— . tides

patch

point

Redd point -
Roderick island
Roffey point
Rogers islet -
Roller bay -
Rolling roadstead -
Root point -
Rosa mount
Rosario strait

. , anchorages

, directions

, , tides

Roscoe inlet
Rose harbour

islets -

point (Nai koon)

, , coast from Lav

- to Masset

Page

475

299

447

360

277

212

299

129

127

128

127

250

249

350

340

- 61

- 62

- 363

- 122

- 92
■• 499
■ 100

- 131
■ 304

- 174

- 144

- 39

- 879

- 244

- 252

- 267

- 819

- 214

- 316
117-122

- 117,123,124

- 118
117,124

- 866

- 488

- 92

- 506
n hill ' 505
sound - 508

Rose spit - - - "

Ro'icdale rock - - ■

Rjsettarock - - '

Ross bay - - - "

island - - " '

Rough bay - - " "

Round head - " '

island and beacon, Barclay

sound
-, Beaver harbour

Page
506

S3
1S5

43
488
219
109

288
222
292
256
344

point

~, Templar channel

Rovee stream

Royal bay or roads -

, anchorage

Rudder reef
Rudlin bay -
Rugged group

island

. point

Rupert arm -

fort -

Russell cape

island

Buxton passage
Ryan point -

-, Carolina channel
— , Mereworth sound
— , Quatsino sound
-, Queen Charlotte sound 250
-, Stuart channel - 94

1 anchorage
93
295
484
38
36
36
153
46
296
' 238
324
344
221
. 349
81
94
. 417

Saanioh district
■ inlet

. peninsula

Sabine channel

, tides
Sackville island
Safe entrance

passage

Safety cove -

, anchorage

, fresh water

, tides -

Shil island -

rock -

Salal point -

64
71
71
173
173
240
359
459
361
361
361
361
233
288
882

;

INDEX.

565

Sallie point

Salmon arm, Jervis inlet

, Seymour inlet -

bank

bay -
. channel

cove
, anchorage

■ river

-, anchorage
-, bight -

Saltspring settlement and district

, anchorage

Sambo head

Samuel island

Sand heads - - -

Sand patch -

Sandfly bay

Sandsplt point, Laredo channel

, Welcome harbour

shoal

Sandstone reef

rocks

Sandwich islands
Sandy island

point, British Columbia

, Waldron island

San Francisco
Sangster island
San Jose islet

— Josef bay
, directions

— Juan island

. port

-, anchorage -

— Mateo bay
Sansum island

narrows

Sarah island

point, British Columbia

. , Finlayson island

Saranac island

Sargeaunt passage -

.. , anchorage

Santa valley
Satellite channel

— , tides

— pass

— reef
-, buoy

Satuma island

Page

■ 331

- 179

- 255

■ 96

■ 208

- 237

- 476

- 476
• 484
. 485

- 417

- 81

- 90

- 224

- 55

- 134
381
481

- 444

- 457
. 444

- 377

- 78

- 139

- 159

- 124

- 62
13, 16

- 172

- 275

- 348

- 348
. 60

- 29

- 30

- 278

- 518

- 73

- 386

- 181

- 421

- 299

- 231

- 275

- 70

- 282

- 146
. 146

51, 129

Savary island . - -

Saw reef . - - -

Scarlett point
Schooner cove, Nanoose harbour

, Wreck bay -

ledge

passage, Milbank sound

— , Ogden channel

-, directions

, Slingsby channel

-, Walker group

• point
■ Retreat

, directions

, gales

, tides

Schwartzenberg gorge
Scotch Fir point
Scott cape -

, sheher

channel

island -

islands

•, tides

I point - - -

Scout patch - - -

Scrogg rocks
Scudder point
Sea-bird islet
Sea bluff -
Sea-breeze island -

point

Sea egg rocks
Seaforth channel -

. — — — , anchorage

Seal rock - - -

rocks, Edye passage -

, Laredo channel -

, Lasqueti

, Portland canal -

Sealed passage
Sea Otter cove
■ — group

-, clearing mark
, caution

— rock

Search islands
Seattle harbour
Sebastian point
Sechart channel

Page

180
493
250
153
294
442
383
468
459
252,
254
2C5

■ 442
. 358
• 360

■ 360

- 255

- 177

■ 267

- 267

- 78

- 267

- 268

- 184

- 62

- 38

- 493

- 272

- 358

- 233

- 405

- 173
1-373

373
23
430
443
172
' 484

■ 266

■ 348

- 350

- 352

- 297

- 354

- 29

- 186

- 286

566

INDEX.

Scchart channel, anchorage
Sechelt arm -

, rapids -

, tides -

' indians
' peninsula

Second narrows, Alberni inlet

, Burrard inlet

Section cove

Secret cove - - -

, anchorage

Secretary island, Fuca strait

, Houston passage

Secure anchorage
Sedge island
Sedg^vick bay
Sedmond river
Selina point
Selwyn inlet
Semiahmoo bay

town

, supplies -

Senanus island

Sentinel island, Aristazable island

, Ogden channel

, Spieden channel

rock

Separation head

point, Lopez sound

, Sansum narrows

Seppings island
Serpent point
Seymour inlet

island

mount

— narrows

-, tides

point

Shadwell passage

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, tides

Shag rock -
Shangoi tribe
Shark cove -

pass -

— — reef -

reefs -

spit -

Sharp passage
Donk -

Page
286
179
179
180
171
179
279
140
493
174
174
32
90
360
232
494
489
185
499
126
126
126
72
461
466
59
59
204
108
72

- 282

- 368

- 255

- 210

- 503

- 203

- 204

- 69

- 260
260, 262

-- 261
260, 261

- 288

- 489

- 64

- 282

- 105

- 297

- 191

- 244

- 419

Sharp point, Northumberland chan-
nel ...

point, Sydney inlet -

Shattock point

Shaw island . . -

Shawl bay - - . -

Sheep islet, Orcas soand

, Stamp harbour -

passage ...

Shelf point, Blunden harbour
, Kynumpt harbour
Shell islet ... -

Shelter arm ... -

bay . - - -

island ...

islands, Barclay sound

>, Shoal channel

pass
point

Shepherd mount
Sherringham point -
Shewell island
Shingle point, Goletas channel

, Narrowgut creek

, Valdes island

spit

Ship anchorage

bay, Guemes channel -

, Orcas sonnd

channel, Barclay sound

, Clayoquot sound

islet

passage, Takush harbour

, Uchucklesit

point ...
rock. Brooks bay

, leading marks

, Takush harbour -

Shoal bay

, anchorage

channel

creek -

harbour, Cramer passage

-, Shute passage
- islands

point

Shower island
Shrub island

islet. Banks island

, Metlah catlah

-, tides

Pago

144
303
418
110
238
114
280
386
249
372
222
304
251
334
292
169
250
164
164
30
230
258
325
93
162
398
117
116
291
296
275
356
278
1.58
334
335
356
106
107
168
212
234
234
67
75
40
352
235
463
414

INDEX.

567

Shrub islet ledge

point -

Shushartio bay

, anchorage

. , directions

saddle -

Shute passage

reef -

Shuttle island

Sierra de San Christoval

Sidney bay

— ^— channel

, directions

' island
■ spit -

-, beacon -

Silverlock hills
Simoom sound
Simpson fort

• port

, anchorage

— , birds -

I , climate

, customs

, deviation

, directions

, Indian villages

, landmarks

, language

, population

, religion

, repairs

, soundings

, supplies

, temperature -

, tides -

, water -

■ rock

Sinclair island
Single islet . - -

Sir Everard islands -
Sisters, the, Barclay Bound -

, Finlayson channel

. , Moresby passage

•, Rosario strait -

inlet

. islets, Lasqueti

. , Principe channel

Sitka

Skaat harbour

Skardpn islands - r

Pago
. 414
. 447
. 257
. 258
. 258
. 258
. 66

- 70
■ 495

- 497

- 199

- 64

- 65

- 66

- 65

- 247
. 238

- 423

- 422

- 424

426

- 428

- 425

- 422

- 427

- 426

- 427

- 423

- 426
5,424

- 428

- 426

- 432

- 123

- 343

- 246

- 290

- 384

- 68

- 124

- 366

- 165

- 452

- 519

- 492

- 177

Skedans bay
— — — islands
Skeena river

-, anchorage
-, caution

-, channels

-, forks of

-, ice

-, minerals

— , missionary stations

Page

- 500

- 404
406, 407

- 405
404-40G

- 404
6.404

, soundings

, supplies

, tides -

-, winds

Skidegate channel -

. , anchorage

, directions

, tides

'-, East and

narrows

Indians

• inlet

, bar -

■ village

• to Rose point

Skincuttle inlet

^ anchorages

, north side

Skip river -
Skipjack island
Skirmish islets
Skull cove -

reef

Slab point -
Slate-chuck brook -
Slave island
Slimpsou reef
Slingsby channel

, directions -
outer narrows
, tides

Slip point . - - -

Slip a ti a island

Slippery rock

Slope point

Small islet . - -

Smith inlet . - -

island, Chatham sound

, anchorage, Skeena river

or Blunt island, Fuca strait -

^ ■, anchorage -

- 405

- 404

- 407
.. 405

- 407

- 407
504, 517

- 517

- 504

- 505
West

- 504

- 503
501-504

50i^?

- 50E

- 505

- 490
491, 492

- 492

- 411

- 104

- 331

- 252

- 57

- 483

- 503

- 260

- 213

- 253

- 254
253
253

23
510
417
227
333
353
406
401
117
118

5fi8

Smith or Uluut island, buucou
, light

INDEX.

' sound

Smokes
Snag rock -
Snug basm -
— — cove -

creek -

Solander island
Solitary island
Somass river
Sombrio river
Somerville island
Songhies point
Sooke bay -

inlet -

, anchorage

— , tides

Sophia islets

Sophy islet - - - -

Sorrow islands . . -

Sound point . - .

Soundings, cape Calvert to Ogden

channel - - - -

South bay - - - -

Bay islands -

Bentinck arm

bluff - - - -

channel, Eraser river -

. , Nanaimo

cove - - - -

island, Big bay

, Dusky cove -

— , Skidegate
■ ledge -

. passage, Fitzhugh sound
-, Klemtoo passage

^ , Klemtoo passage,

directions

reef - - - -

— - rock. New channel -
— — rocks. Banks island -
— — Channel islands

Danger rock -

— — Dundas island - -

Gander island

— — Iron rock - - -

.__- . , clearing mark

I Needle peak -

II Obstruction pass
— — Pointers

Pago

118

353

205

278

1C6

383

233

279

471

215

478

. 455

■ 373

466
502
442
365
125
134
146
490
418
234
•602
417
352
385

386
315
266
464
443
339
433
461
352
352
441
110
456

South Sand head

Surf islands -

Twin islet

Watcher islet

South-east arm, Portland canal

, Quatsino sound

, Gander island

Southoy island

point

Southgato group
river

Spanish bank

-, buoy

Sparrowhawk breakers

- rock -

shoal -

Speaker rock
Spencer ledge
Sphinx island
Spicer island
Spider island
Spieden bluff

channel

, directions

' island

Spiller channel

passage ...

Spit point, Portland canal -

, Skidegate

Spray point . - - -

Spring passage. Knight inlet

■ rock, Gilford island -

.. , Middle channel

Sproat bay - - - -

Spuk But . - - -

Spur rock - - -

Squall point . . -

Squally channel

, soundings -

, tides

-, weather -

• reach

Square island
Squaw island
Squawmisht river
Squirrel cove

, tides -

St. FeUx island
St. Incs island
St. James cape
St. John's harbour -

Page
134
445
467
449
480
343
461
152
80
252
196
137
137
462
420
134
209
46
87
467
458
58
59
60
58
371
235
480

• 502
. 444

- 232
229

- 100

- 277

- 405

- 357

- 453

- 445

- 446
395, 396

- 446

- 72

- 256

- 382

- 166

- 183

- 188

- 14

- 290

- 487

• 380

IxNUEX.

otI'J

■ ■

St. John's Iiurbour, anchorage

, caution -

, directions

■ , ledges -

• point

St. Mary cape

Stackhouse island -

Stag bay . - -

, anchorage

— — rock, Grenville channel
Stager fort -
Stamp harbour

■ , anchorage -

, supplicB

^ tides

Staniforth point
Stanley river

Staples island, Ucluelot arm
-, Walker group

■ islet

Star islands -

islet

rock

Starfish group
ledge

-, clearing mark

Starlight reefs

Start island - - -

point - - - ■

Station island
Steamer cove

passage, Baronet passage ■

, Elick tso atll bar

hour
, Portland inlet

■ , Uchucklesit

Steep bluif - - -

cliff point

island, Arrovir passage

-, Discovery passage

• point, Laredo sound -

, Orcas -

, Otter channel -

, Portland canal -

, Takush harbour

Stenhouse shoal
Stephen rock
Stephens island
— — — mount

. point

II port

Page
380
380
380
380
163
119
244
182
182
399
405
279
280
280
280
392
513
293
264
248
225
385
243
456
456
457

• 291
232

. 471
187
304
223

• 370

- 472
. 278
. 68

■ 169

- 235

■ 201

- 442

- 112

- 450

- 483

■ 366

- 432

- 453

- 429

- 255

- 395

- 451

Pago

Stephens port, directions - - 452

, tides - - 452

Stevens passage - - - 173

Stewart buy- - - - 293

narrows - - - 395

Stockade bay - - - IIC

point - - - 116

Stony point - - - - 475

Stopford point - - . - 481

Stopper islands ... 290

Storm island - - - 281

islands, Principe channel - 452

, Queen Charlotte

sound - - 265
, Queen Charlotte

sound, water

Stove islet -
Strachan bay
Straggling islands -
Strawberry bay

-, anchorAge
, directions

•— — , water
island

Stripe island

mountain

Striped peak
Strong tide islet
Stuart anchorage

-, anchorage
-, directions
•, tides

• channel

-, directions

island, Haro archipelago

, Calm channel -

narrows

point - . -

Stubbs island
Stumaun bay
Stunted island
Sturgeon bank
Styles point -
Sucia island
harbour

directions

Sugar-loaf hill
Sulivan reefs
Sun rock
Sunday harbour

-, anchorage •

- 266

- 190

• 256

- 345

- 122

• 123

- 122

- 226

- 375

- 23

- 46

- 399

- 74

- 78

- 57

- 195

- 246

- 250

- 295
• 421

- 360
128, 133

- 198

- 103

- 456

- 330

- 250

- 235

570

INDEX.

Sunday harbour, tides

island

rock

Sunderland channel

, tides

Sunk reef - . -
Sunken rock
Superstition ledge -

point -

Su quash anchorage

, anchorage

, tides -

Surf islands

islet, Seaforth channel -

, Smith sound

point - - -

Surge islets - - -
narrows

-, tides -

rocks -

Surgeon islands
Surprise patch
Surry islands
Susan island
Sutherland bay
Sutil channel

; , directions

, tides -

mount -

Sutlej channel

point -

Suwanee rock
Swain cape -
Swale rock -
Swallow island
Swamp islet -

point

Swanson bay

tides

anchorage

— channel

island

tides

Swindle island
Swiss-boy island
Sydney inlet

. islets

Sykes reef -

Page
285
863
308
210
210
374
266
459
459
220
230
220
338
374
352
359
334
444
444
228
243
355
174
384
247
189
194
189
89
242
244
365
260
375
285
418
417
482
389
389
80
57
225
379
283
303
■ 178
293

rage

Ta aitz village

255

Table hill -

409

island, Barrier group -

328

age -

328

354

islet -

288

mountain

504

point - - -

431

Tacoma port

Tahsis canal

311

narrows

311

Tahsish arm

325

Takush harbour

356

tides

356

Tftl un kwan island -

499

Tan 00 island

498

Tangle cove

492

Tar islands -

495

Tartannc village

516

Tasoo harbour

519

Tat chu point

323

Tatnall reefs

263

Tatoosh island

, fog signal -

lifrVlt-

— > "gll

Tftttcnham ledge

173

Taylor islet -

276

Teakerne arm

187

Te ka river - - -

513

Telakwas -

358

Telegraph harbour -

, tides

404

. 405

, directions

405

Templar channel

295

Tent island - -

, rock near to

Terror point

463

rocks

463

Tessie point - - -

248

Texada island

171

Thames shoal

Thatcher passage -

109

INDEX.

671

Thatcher passage, directious

, tides

Theodosia arm

-, anchorage -

Thetis cove, Esquimalt
, Mitchell harbour

Page
109
109
186
186
39
518

■ island, Esquimalt - -38

-, Trincomalic channel 75, 80
394
394
221
113
131
240
371
173
518
170
185
186
142
183
52
515
409
177
207
186
440
395

Thom ledgo

point - - -

Thomas point
Thompson point

river

sound

Thorbume island

Thormanby islands -

Thorn rock - - -

Thornborough channel

Thorp island

Thors cove -

Thrasher rock and buoy

Three islets - - •

Three shoal patches

Thrumb cape

Thumb peak

Thunder bay

Thurlow islands

Thynne island

Tidal streams, Brown passage

-, Campania sound

— , Discovery passage 200, 204

— , Dixon entrance

— , Douglas channel

— , Finlayson channel

— , Fuca strait -

— , Georgia strait

— -, Grenville channel
— , Haro archipelago
— , Hecate strait

— -, Johastoue strait
— , Klemtoo passage
— , Laredo channel
sound

— , McKay reach
— , Middle channel
— , Milbank sound
— , Ogden channel
— , Principe channel
— , Scott islands -
— , Tolmie channel
— , Trincomalie channel

Tide islet -

point -

Tide-rip island

— , Wright souud

, caution

, tides

tables -

Tides, Active pass -

, Alert bay

, Alpha bay -

, Augusta port

, Baker passage

, Barclay sound

, Beaver creek -

harbour

521-

440

- 101

- 388

- 10, 34
12, 130

396, 399
53, 102
12, 507

- 207

- 38P-

- 444

- 395

- 102

- 379

- 469

- 454

- 268

- 388
91

Pago

Tidal streams, Vancouver, coast of,

generally 10-12

west coast 11,271

inner waters 150

395
190
121
462
462
462
527

- 86

- 219

- 469

- 160

- 183

- 273

- 199

- 222

- 365

- 381

- 2<9

- 216

- 432

- 262

- 139
• 120

- 197

- 206

- 396

- 453

- 198

- 387
428, 440

- 295

- 395

- 52

- 238

- 244

- 496

- 238

- 26
94, 149

British

395, 396

- 126
" 234

- 430

- 138

- 322

- 37

-, Bela kula
-, Blakeney port
-, Blunden harbour
-, Broughton strait
~, Brown passage
~, Bull harbour
— , Burrard inlet
— , Burrows bay -
— , Bute inlet
— , Calm channel
— , Cameleon harbour
— , Campania sound
— , Canaveral port
— , Cardero channel
- , Carter bay -
— , Chatham sound
— , CIdyoquot sound
— , Coghlan anchorage
— .Cormrmi.t bay
— , Culkn h.-.rbour
-, Cj'press harbour

, Darwin sound

, Deep harbour

, Discovery port

, Dodd narrows

, Douglas channel,

Columbia -

, Drayton harbour

, Dusky cove -

, Edye passage

, English bay -

, Esperanza inlet

, Esquimalt harbour

572

INDEX.

rage

Pag"

Tides, EsHington port

407

Tides, Nanoose harbour

- 169

, Esteviin souikI

4r)4

, Nasparti inlet

- 338

, Farewell harbour

226

- 474

, FinlayHon channel

395

■

- 475

, Forward liarbour

210

, Navy channel

- 57

Gabriola pass

- 23

Gander iwlands

462

212

— —

Georgia strait

150

- 26

Goldstreara harbour -

362

, New Westminster

- 135

Goletas channel - 257

267

,268

, Ninipkish river

- 217

GowUand harbour

202

, Nootka sound

- 800

, Grace harbour

187

, Nuchalitz inlet

- 317

Graves port -

171

- 478

Grenville channel

395

, Obstruction pnxsagef

■ 110

Griffin bay -

, Oriflammc passage

- 430

Haro strait -

, Ou oukinsh inlet

- 331

Ilarvcy port -

214

, Oyster harbour

- 76

Ilenslung covn

515

- 514

Ilesquiat harbour

307

•

- 35

Holmes bay -

394

,396

, Pender harbour

•

- 177

Island harbour

285

- 170

Jcrvis inlet -

180

sound

- 57

John port

367

, Portier pass -

90, 91

Kemano bay -

392

, Portland eaual

- 485

Klaskino inlet

337

, Prideaux haven

- 188

Klaskish inlet

335

, Qlawdzeet anchorag

- 433

Klemtoo passage

385

, Quatsino narrows

- 344

Klewnuggit inlet

398

- 341

Knight inlet -

228

, liace islands -

- 33

Knox bay

208

, Refuge bay -

- 431

Kynumpt harbour

372

, Rendezvous islands

- 195

Kyuquot sound

328

, Richardson inlet

- 498

Lama passage

368

, Roche harbour

- 62

Lewis channel

183

, Rosario strait

117,124

395

- 173

- 361

Lopez sound -

108

, Safety 20vc -

•

Loughborough inlet -

199

, Sargea.int passage

-. 231

Lowe inlet

398

,399

, Schoon ;r Retreat

- 360

Malaspina inlet

187

, Seeche t arm -

- 180

Maple bay -

, Seymour narrows

- 203

Masset sound

511

260, 261

McKay reach

396

, Shoal ha-bour, Cramer passage 234

McLaughlin bay

869

, Simpsoi port

- 428

, Metlah catlah bay

417

, Skecnr; river -

- 407

, Middle channel

, Skide^^ate channel

- 505

, Moore channel

519

, Slingsby enannel

- 253

Naden river -

513

, Sookc inlet -

- 32

, Nahwhitti bar

257

, Squally channel

395, 396

—J; —

, Nak wak to rapids -

253

, Squirrel cove -

- 183

, Namu harbour

363

, Stamp harbour

- 280

~~-^

, Nanaimo harbour

148

- 452

INDEX.

673

Tides, Stuart anchorage

, Sunday hiirbour

, Huuderhind channel -

, Su quash anchorage -

— — , Surge narrows
— — , Sutil channel

, Sutlej channel

, SwanBon channel

, Takush harbour

, Telegraph harbour -

, Thatcher passage

, Tide-rip island

, Topaze harbour

, Townshend port

— — , Traoey harbour

, Treadwell bay

, Tucker bay

, Uchucklesit harbour -

, Upright channel

, Victoria harbour

, Viner sound -

, Virago sound

, Waddington harbour

, Wasp passages

, Welcome harbour

, Wellbore channel

, Whale channel

, Wright sound

Tie island -
Tin in ow e inlet
Ti tul island

Tleohopcity harbour

Tl ell river -

Tlupana arm

Toa ko na cove

Toba inlet -

Tod creek -

Todd rock, Barclay sound

. , Oak bay

Toe point

Tofino inlet -

Tolmie channel

-, caution

-, directions -

-, tides

Tom islet

. point -

, Browne lake -

Tombstone bay
Tomlinson mountain

Pago

- 899

■ 23S

- 210
• 230

■ 444

- 189

- 244

- 57

- 856

- 79

- 109

- 4G2

- 211

- 243

- 254

- 172

- 278

- 106

- 42

- 238

- 513

- 196

- 112

- 458

- 209
395, 396

- 396

- 355

- 510

- 498

- 439

- 505

- 312

- 231

- 189

- 72

- 276

- 45

- 129

- 301

- 888

- 388

- 388
• 388

- 397

- 69

- 231

- 482

- 473

Tongass island

-, anchorage
-, directions
-, settlement

Tongue point, Hernando island

.. , I'ortier pass -

___^-_ , Semiahraoo bay

spit -

Tonkin point
Too witl
Topaze harbour

Top-knot point
Toquart harbour

., anchorage
', tides

Tow hill
Townshend port

-, anchorage
-, directions -

-, anchorage

, tides

Towry head -
Tow us tas in hill -
Tracey harbour
, anchorage

, , tides

. island

Trade islands

Trafford point

Trail bay

., anchorage

islets -

Trainer passage
Tranquil creek
Transit point
Trap, the

bluff -

island -

rocks -

Treadwell bay

— , anchorage

. — — , directions

. , tides

Tree bluff

■-, dangers -

island, Haro archipelago

., Trincomalie channel

islet, Cypress hprbour -

, Lama passage

, Skidegate

— islets

P«go

438
. 438
. 43d
. 43B

183
90

■ 126
. 126

■ 453

■ 382

- 210
. 211
. 211

■ 348
• 290

■ 291
. 291

■ 508

- 27

- 28
28

- 199

- 510

- 242
. 243

- 243

- 236

- 452

- 240

- 171

- 171
• 236

- 302

- 214

- 365

- 328

- 234

- 449

- 254

- 254
. 254

- 417

- 67

- 93

- 244

- 370

- 502

- 265

574

INDEX.

Tree point, Portland oanal -

— — , Tsimpsean peninsula

— — — , reef ...
Tree-nob group . - .

Trefusis point ...

Tremeton mount ...
Trevan rock

Trevenon bay . . -

Trial islands ...

Triangle island, Queen Charlotte

sound
— . , Scott islands

Tribune bay

-, anchorage

channel

Triucomalie channel

— , directions

, tidal streams

Trinity bay -

, anchorage

Trivett island
—^ — point
Trouble island
Truro island

, anchorage

Truscott patch

Tsauwiiti vilhigc

Tsimpsean peninsula

Tsoo skatli - - -

Tsusiat waterfall

Tuara mount

Tucker bay ...

, anchorage
. tides

Tuft island -
Tugwell island

Page

480
406
480
429
472
172
488
185
43

235
268
162
163
239
86
89
91
219
219
245
390
448
471
471
430
232
411
510
272
65
172
172
172
495
412

-, clearing mark of dan-
gers

Tumbo island

Tuna point, shoal oflF

Turn island, Barclay sound -

, Middle channel

., — point, Lewis channel -

_ , Portland canal -

_ , Quatsino narrows

-, Shadwell passage

. , Stuart channel

rock -

Tumagain island
TurnbuU cove

413
51, 129

- 211

- 275

- 98

- 183

- 483

- 344

- 261

- 57

- 98

- 174

- 248

- 68

Tumour island

Turret islet - - .

Turtle point

Turtle Bi ^k mountain

Twenty-feet rock

Twilight point

reefs

rock

Twin island, Ojster harbour

islands, Baker passage -

■ , Triucomalie channel

islets, Clayoquot sound

, Espj'anza inlet

, Howe sound

, Queen Charlotte sound

lock, Beaver harbour

rocks, Ripple passage

Twins mountains
Two-fathom patch -
Tzaartoos island

Uehuuklesit harbour

, tides
water

Ucluclet arm

, anchorage

, directions

Ugly channel

Union bay, Portland inlet

, Saanich inlet

island

passage

Unit rock
United States
Upright channel

-, anchorage -
tides

— chff

— hill

— point

Upwood point
Ursula channel
Useless arm -

Ut te was village, Ma,?set

, Hudson Bay Go's, post

missioDary station

Page
226
253
445
113
335
368
228
225

76
182

87
297
319
170
237
221
251
492

90
277

278
278
279
292
293
293
291
471

71
325
447

106

77
106
107
172
390
283
431
608
509
509

''i

nmmmsmmmmm

iwmaHMm

INDEX.

576

Valdea island

Vallinfts cape

Valparaiso - - .

Vaucoiwer bay

harbour, Burrard iclet

, anchorage

directions

island

climate

coast north of,, winds

~, making the land
-, natives -
-, soundings
-, supplies -
-, tides
-, trade
-, west coast
-, winds

rock

town, Burrard inlet

-, supplies

Vansittart island

Vargas cone ...

■■ island ...

Vashon i&land ...

Vendovia island ...

Venn creek ....

Verdure point

Verney falls - . -

passage, Schooner retreat -

, Wright sound

, tides

Vernon bay ...

Vertical point ...

Vesuvius bay ...

Victoria district church

harbour ...

, anchorage

■ , buoys

■ , coal

— , directions -

— ^ — , mails

-, patent slip
-, pilots
-, supplies -
-, tides

— mount

View point

Page

86, 192

- 439
12, 14

- 178

- 139

- 140

270

271

272

270

37G

139

140

260

295

296

123

415

484

397

360

391

395

286

499

179

430

Vigilant point

Vi^s point - - -
Village bay, Mereworth sound
, Skid*- rate

, Valdes island -

- island, Halibut channel
, Halibut channel, rock

near

, Broken group

, Queen Charlotte soimd

, Simpson port -

- islands, Koskeemo bay
, Skidegate -

- islet - - .

- passsage, Barclay sound
, Queen Charlotte

sound -

- point, Baynes sound
, Burdwood group

- reef - - - -

- rocks, Barclay sound

, Esquimau

, buoy

Vincent island

-, caution

Viner point -

sound

, tides

Virago rock
sound

-, anchorage

-, tides -

- to cape Knox -

Virgin rocks
Viscount island
Viti rock
\'oak rock -
Von Doncp creek

Waddington channel
harbour

Wah ka na bay
Wah shih las
Wafceman sound
Wakennenish island
Waldron island
Wales island
point

-, tides

Page
201
245
256
503
193
328

329
284
226
421
342
502
340
290

226
158
239
284
282
38
38
241
241
193
238
238
91)
52
.'12
jl.l
513
351
230
124
246
192

188
196
196
240
232
245
295
63
439
439

576

INDEX.

Walkor group

hook

— — — — — , anchorage

— — point

anchorage

rock

-, beacon

Wall islands

WaUace bight - -

" ■ islands

TVp.1 mouth hill

Walsh cove -

Wanderei island

Ward cove . - -

Warke island

Warn bay - - -

island

Warr bluff -
Warren islands
Warrior rocks
Washington harbour

mount - , -

— territory

Wasp islands

channels and passages

Page

- 264

- 88

- 363

- 364

- 88
88

- 104

- 386

- 251
. 119

- 188

- 492

- 439

- 389

- 300

- 302

- 227

- 214

- 430
■ 26

- 161

- 27
99, 111

- Ill

•jdirectionslll,
112

-, tides

channel, north passage

Watch island ...

— — rock •■ - - -

Water, Angelos port

, Beaver creek

— — , Bela kula
— — , Burranl inlet

, Carter bay - - -

, Cascade bay, Orcas Easit

sound ...

, Cypress harbour

— — , Esiiuimalt - - -

, Hecate bay, Cla^oquot sound

, Hesquiat harbour -

J Inner channels generally

, Klaskino inlet

, Klaskish inlet

-— — , Lowe inlet ...

, Miirviuas bay, Nootka sound

, Morris bay •

, Plumper sound

, Queen cove, Esperanza inlet

.- -- -, Safety cove - - -

112
112
373
351
24
199
365
142
387

116
244

38
St98
307
269
336
336
398
310
383

5i)
321
361

Water, Simpson port

, Skidegate inlet, AUiford bay

, Storm islands

, Strawberry bay

, Uchucklesit harbour. Green

cove . . .

Watson bay

■ island . . .

< rock . . .

Watts point - . - -
Waverly peak . . -
Wa wattle bay . . .
Webster itland . . -
reef

Page
426
503
266
122

279
386
247
400
167
409
255
286
281
311

Wedge island, Koprino harlwur

— « , Queen Charlotte sound 228

885

■ point

— ' rock

Welcome harbour

~, directions
-, tides

pass
point

Wellbore channel -

, tides

Wellington village -
Wells pass -
Wentworth rock
Werner bay

Weser islet - - .

West arm ...

point - - -

, fog signal

, l:ght -

— — rock, Goose island group
— , Milbank sound -

rocks, Cleor^a strait -
Kyuquot ch mnel

386
457

457
458
174
504
209
209
147
242
251
494
258
846
28
29
29
459
376
148
324
114
61
256
288

sound -

Westcott creek
Westerman bay
Western channel, Barclay sound

■ — , Barclay sound,

beacons 288, 289

■ ' , Barclay sound,

directions - 289
— — — channels, Haro streiit - 64

reef ■ - - 281

West Haycock - - - 268

Westminster, New • - - 184

■ point - - - 868

INDEX.

577

Weynton pussuge ■
Whale channel
————-, tides

islet - - -

— — rock and buoy, Esquimalt
■ , Retreat passage

— — - rocks - - -

Whaler island

Wheeler islet

Wheelock pass

MThidbey island

^■Vhiffin spit -

Whirlwind bay

White beach

bluff -

cliflf -

island, Howe sound -

, north channel
— — islands

islet, Clayoquot sound

— -— , Georgia strait -

, Hurtado point, near to

point, Darwin sound -

■ " '■ , Portland canal -

' rock, Aristazable island

, Cowlitz bay

, caution

— — , Howe sound

, Milbauk sounu

— — , Ogden channel -

, Rosario strait -

, Secret cove

, Stuart channel -

— , Walker group -

rocks. Banks island -

-, anchorage

— , Beaver passage
- — , Cole bay
— , Dundas island -
— , Lady island

spit, Bayncs sound
-, Clam bay
point

White Beach bay -

J anchorage

passage

White Cliflf head -

— — — island, Arthur passage

, Big bay -

' , Nalau i)assage

— — inidOds -

A 17498,

Page

- 218

- 447
395, 396

- 64
38, 39

- 233

- 96

- 297

- 453

- 370

- 120

- 31

- 363

- 156

- 159

- 105

- 168

- 253

- 437

- 297

- 171
101
495
483
461

63
63
167
376
467
121
174
78
265
465
465
354
72
434
381
150
92
92
114
114
226
S24
403
4 18
458
228

White CHfF ledge -
— — — — point
AVhitdiorn point
White Nob point
— — Pine cove
Whitesand islet
White stone
Whitestone islands -

point

Whiting bank, Louise inlet

— , Vancouver harbour

Whitly point
Wilfred point
Willaclagh mining camp
Willes island
William head

island

Williams island

Williamson rock

Willis point - - »

Willow point

Wilson island

point

, fog signal

— .light -

Wimbledon mountains
Wiuchelsea islands -
Winds, Fuca strait -

, Georgia strait

—- — , Queen Charlotte islands

, Vancouver coast, north of

VViiidy islet - - ,

islets

rock - - -

Winter o^-e

'i/rbour

Wise island .. - _

Wishart peninsula -
Wizard islet
Wolf cove

point, Uuccaneer bay -

, Pitt island

rock - _ _

Wolfe island
Wood island

islands

rocks

Woodcock landing -

anchorage

Woods point

Woody point or cape Cook

Page
403
166
125
230
305
435
372
175
343
397

■ 139

■ 434

• 203

■ 406

• 260

■ 36

- 382

- 177

- 120

- 72

- 202

- 246

- 28

- 27

- 390

- 151

7
8, 151

- 10

- 480

- 446

- 55

• 340

- 87

- 238

- 376

- 243

- 174

- 451

- 457

- 32

- 380

- 301

- 355

- 406

- 407

- 243

- 338

578

INDEX.

Woolridge island
Wootton bay
Work channel
Worlcombe island
Wreck bay -

, caution

— — — point
Wright sound

directions

— , land marks -

— , tidal streams

Wyadda island
Wynyard mount

Xschwau fishery

Yale, town of
Ya koun river
Ya tia village
Yellocki village
Yellow bank

bluff

— — ^- cli£F, anchorage
— cypress

Page

- 170

- 186
. 428

- 168

- 294

- 464

- 398
• 393

- 393
395, 396

. 22

- 248

477

131
511
512
459
299
219
92
221

Yellow island, Baynes sound
— , Wasp group -

islet, Discovery passage
, Prjivost passage

point
rock

Yeo island . - -

islandt: - - -

Yew point - - -

Yolk point - - -

York island, Johnstone strait

— — , Portland inlet -

Young island

—— passage

— — point

Yule islet . - -

Yu quot point

Zayas island
Zeballos arm
Zephine head
Zero rock -

-, beacon -
, rocky patch near •
Zuciarte channel

Page

156

111

202

233

366

153

447

■ 211

• 470

- 120

- 206

• 172

- 332

• 310

434

821

184

312

579

LIST OE SAILING DIRECTIONS, &c., PUBLISHED
BY THE HYDROGEAPHIC DEPARTMENT OP
THE ADMIRALTY, MARCH 1888.

Title. Price.

British Islands. s. d.

Channel Pilot, part 1, South-west and sooth coasts of England,

7th edition, 1886 - - - 3

2, Coast of France and the Channel islands,

4th edition, 1882 - - - 5

North sea Pilot, part 1, Shetland and Orkneys, 3rd edition, 1887 3

2, North and east coasts of Scotland, 4th

edition, 1885 - - - - 4 6

— — — ^— 3, East const of England, from Berwick to

the North Foreland, including the
Estuary of the Thames, 4th edition,

1882 4 6

4, Elvers Thames and Medway and the

shores of the North sea from Calais to
the Skaw, 4th edition, 1887 - - 3 6

Sailing directions for the west coast of Scotland, part 1, Hebrides

or Western islands, 3rd edition, 1885 - - - - 4

Sailing directions for the west coas t of Scotland, part 2, Cape

Wrath to the Mull of Galloway, 3rd edition, 1886 - -.4

Sailing directions for the West coast of England, from Milford
haven to the Mull of Galloway, also the Isle of Man, 3rd
edition, 1884 - • - - - - .46

Sailing direction.' for the Bristol channel, 4th edition, 1884 - 2 6
Sailing directions for the coast of Ireland, part 1, south, east, and

north coasts, 3rd edition, 1885 - - - - 3

Sailing directions for the coast of Ireland, part 2, South-west,
west, and north-west coasts, 3rd edition, 1887. {In the press.)

North op Europe and Baltic Seas.

Norway Pilot, part 1. The Naze to the Kattegat, 1854 - - 1

. 2. From the Naze to North cape ; thence to

Jacob river, 1880 - - - 3

White Sea Pilot, comprising the Coast of Kussian Lapland and
the White Sea, 1887 - - - - - - 4 6

A 17498. p P

580

Title.

, ; ' ■ J r Baltic and North of Eurofk.

Danish Pilot, containing directions for the Kettegat, tht s Sound,

Belts, and Channels to the Baltic, with Bornhoki and the

Ertholms, 2nd edition, 1885 --...-

Sailing directions for the Baltic sea, &nd gulf of Finland, 1854 -

Baltic Pilot; supplementary directions, 1855 - .. -

views, to accompany sailing directions, 1854

The Bothnia Pilot, April 1855 - - - . .
supplementary directions, 1855 - - - -

Price.

Atlantic and Mediterranean, &c.

Sailing directions for the west coasts of Prance, Spain, and
Portugal, from Ushant to Gibraltar strait, also the African
coast from cape Spartel to Mogador, 4th edition, 1885
Mediterranean Pilot, vol. 1. Comprising Gibraltar strait, coast of

Spain, African coast from cape
Spartel to gulf of Kabes, together
" ' with the Balearic, Sardinian, Sici-

lian, and Maltese islands, 2nd
edition, 1885 ...
———————— 2. Comprising coast of France, and of

Italy to the Adriatic j African
const from Jerbah to El Arish ;
'. '' coasts of Karamania and Syria;

together with the Tuscan archi-
• '- pelago, and islands of Corsica and
Cyprus, 2nd edition, 1885

^— — — 3. Comprising the Adriatic sea, Ionian

islands, the coasts of Albania and
• '',.' Greece to cape Malea, with Cerigo
islands; including the gulfs of
Patras and Corinth, 1880
- Supplement, No. 1, 1884

— ^ ^— 4. Comprising the Archif elago with the

adjacent coasts of Greece and

■ " '" ■ ' Turkey ; including also the island

of Cadia or Crete, 18S2 -

Sailing directions for the Dai'danelles, Sea of Marmara, and the

Bosporus, 3rd edition, ir.y2 . - - - -

Black sea Pilot, 3rd edition, 1884 ....

7 6

1.*.'

(IT?

581

Title.

Price,

3 6

2 6

..J NoBTH America and West Indies. *. d.

Remarks on Davis strait, Baffin Bay, Smith sound, &c,, 1875 - 1 6

Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot. Comprising also the strait

of Belle-isle, the north-east and part of the north coasts of

Labrador, 2nd edition 1887. (/« the press.)

Sailing directions for the south-east coast of Nova Scotia and bay

of Fundy, 3rd edition, 1885 - - - - -

St. Lawrence Pilot, vol. 1, containing 'sailing directions for the

gulf and river St. Lawrence, 5th
edition, 1882

I _.__~_i_ 2, containing sailing directions for the

southern parts of the gulf of St.

Lawrence, andfor its south entrance

• - ■ through Chedabucto bay and the

gut of Canso, 5th edition, 1881 -

Sailing directions for the principal ports on the East coast of the

United States of America, 3rd edition, 1882 - - -

West India Pilot, vol. 1. From cape North of the Amazons to

cape Sable in Florida, with the ad-
jacent islands, 4th edition, 1883 - 5

Supplement, 1887 - - - 3

-— — .^~.^— '^— 2. The Carib )ean sea, from Barbados to

Cuba Wit>i Florida strait, Bahama
1 . and Bermuda islands, 4th edition,

1887 - - ■ -90

. South America AND Pacific Ocean. r

South America Pilot, part 1. East coast of South America, from

cape St. Eoquo to cape Virgins,
with the Falkland, South Ge "gia,
Sandwich, and South Shetland
islands, also the north coast from
cape St. Roque to cape Orange in
French Guiana, 3rd edition, 1885 7 6
I 2. Comprising Magellan strait, Tierra

, del Fuego, and west coast of

South America from cane Vii^ifins
to Panama bay, alssv" the
Galapagos islands, 8th eduion,
'^ •■ ' 1886 . - - - 7 6

pp 2

682

British Columbia Pilot.

Title. Price.

8. d.

Coasts of British Columbia from Juau

de Fuca strait to Portland canal, ' 'f'-

also Vancouver and Queen Charlotte
islands, 2nd edition, 1888 - - 5 6

Africa Pilot, part 1.

part 2.

part 3.

Africa.

From cape Spar!;«?l to the river Cameroon,
also the Azores, Madeira, Canary,
and Cape Verde islands, 4th edition,
1885

From the river Cameroon to the cape of
Grood Hope, also Ascension, St. Helena,
Tristan da Cunha, and Gough islands,
3rd edition, 1884

South and East coasts of Africa from the
cape of Good Hope to cape Guardaftti,
also the islands in Mozambique channel,
4th edition, 1884 ....

•i , -^

::r..

4 6

Indian Ocean, &c.

taulf of Aden Pilot. Sok6tra and adjacent islands, Somali and
Arabian coasts in the gulf of Aden, and the East coast of
Arabia, 3rd edition, 1887. - - - - - 1

Bed sea Pilot. Prom Suez and from Akabah to the straits of
Bab-el-Mandeb, and the Arabian coast thence to Aden ; also
directions for the navigation of the Suez canal, 3rd edition,
1883 - - - - - - - - 4 6

Revised Supplement, 1886 - - « 6

Persian Gulf Pilot. The gulf of Oman ; and the Makran coast,

2nd edition, 1883 - - - - - -50

West coast of Hindustan Pilot, including the gulf of Mandr, the

Maldivh and Lakadivh islands,
^ 2nd edition, 1880 - - 4

— — Revised Supplement. Relating to .^ , „„,„_.

the west coast of Hindustan
. and the south coast of Ceylon,

1887 - - - - 8

Sailing directions for Mauritius and the islands included in its
government, 1884 - - - • - - 2

583

Title.

Price.
8. d.

Bay of Bengal Pilot, sailing directions for the Bay of Bengal, ,
and the adjacent coasts of Hindustan, Burma and Siam,
together with Ceylon, the Nicobar, and Andaman islands, and
the north coast of Sumatra, 1887 - - - - 4 6

China Sea, Australia, New Zealand.

China sea Directory, vol. 1, Containing approaches to the China "
" sea, by Malacca, Singapore,

i- ■ Sunda, Banka, Gaspar, Carimata,

Rhio, Varella, and Durian straits,
3rd edition, 1886 - - 4 6

.. . vol. 2, Directions for the China sea between

Singapore and Hong-Kong, 2nd
edition, 1879 - - -36

Supplement, 1884 - - - - 1

— — — ^-— — — — vol. 3, Comprising the coasts of China from

Hong-Kong to the Korea ; North
coast of Luzon, Formosa island
and strait ; the Babuyan, Bashce,
and Meiaco Sima groups. Yellow
sea,gulfsof Pe-chili andLiau-tung.
Also the rivers Canton, West, Min,
Yung, Yangtse, Yellow, Pei Ho,
and Liau Ho ; and Pratas island,
2nd edition, 1 884 - -60

_——»————— vol. 4, Comprising the coasts of Korea,

Eussian Tartary, Japan islands,
■^ ' • ' gulf of Tartary and Amur, and

the sea of Okhotsk; also the
Meiaco, Liukiu, Linschoten,
Mariana, Benin, Saghalin, and
Kuril islands, 2nd edition, 1884 -

... Supplement, 1886

Australia Directory, vol. 1, South and east coasts, Bass strait,

and Tasmania, 8th edition, 1884 -

.. Supplement, 1886

' 2, Comprisirg the east coast Torres

strait, and Coral sea. Also the
gulf of Papua, south-eastern coasts
of New Guinea, and the Louisiade
archipelago, 3rd edition, 1879 -

6
6

684>

Title. Price.

a. d.

Australia Directory, Vol. 2, Revised Supplement, 1887 - - 1 6

- vol. 3, North, north-west, and west coasts,

from the gulf of Carpentaria to

cape Leeuwin, with directions for

. . passages through the neighbouring

8"!a8, 2nd edition, 1881 -

■I. Supplement, 1885 - • -

New Zealand Pilot, including also the Chatham islands, and the

off-lying islaids southward of New Zea-
land, 5th editi m, 1883 -

___———— Revised Supplemei t, 1887 - - -

Sailing Directions for the Fiji islands a' d adjacent waters, 1882 -
__^ Supplement No. 1. Revised sailing direc-
tions relating to tht northern coast of Viti-
Levu, the south- wesv and north-west coasts
of Vanua Levu, with the ofE-lying and
intermediate reefs and i jlets, 1884 -
Pacific islands, vol. 1 (Western groups). Sp'.i'ng directions for

New Hebrides, Solomon, New Ireland,
New Britain, Admiralty, and Caroline
islands, with part of New Guinea,

1885

. vol. 2 (Central groups). Sailing directions for

Kermadec, Tonga, Samoa, Union,

Phoenix, Ellice, Gilbert, and Marshall

islands, 1885 - - - -

.,»__^«——— vol. 3 (Eastern groups). Sailing directions for

the Tubuai, Cook, and Society islands,
Paumota or Low archipelago ; Mar-
quesas ; scattered islands near the
equator, and the Sandwich islands,
1885- ....

Ta-blks.

Sun's true bearing or azimuth tables (Burwood) between the
parallels of 30° and 60° inclusive, 1886 - - - 4 6

Deviation op the Compass, &c.
Practical rules for agcertaining and applying the deviation of

the compass, 1879 - - - - - - 1

2 6

686

Title. Price.

:,*-?,;,. i*ii,- ',* -"l ■ • ^ s, d.

Admiralty manual for ascertaining- and applying the deviations of

the compass, 5th edition, 1882 - • - - 4 6

r Lists op Lights. — Corrected annually to the 'Msf. December,

British islands - - - - - - -16

Western shores of Europe, and Africa from Dunkerque to the
cape of Good Hope, including Azores, Madeira, Canary, Cape
Verde islands, &c. - - - - • -10

North, Baltic, and White seas - - - - - 1

Mediterranean, Black, Azov, and Red seas - - - 1

Eastern shores of North America and Central America from
Labrador to the river Amazons, also Bermuda and islands
of the West Indies - - - - - - 2

South America, western coast of North America, Pacific islands,

&c. 6

South Africa, East Indies, China, Japan, Australia, Tasmania,
and New Zealand - - - - • -10

, , • Tides.

Tide tables for British and Irish ports, and also the times of
high-water for the principal places on the Globe (published
annually) - • - - - - -16

Miscellaneous.

Catalogue of charts, plans, and sailing directions; 1886 -
Signs and abbreviations adopted in the Admiralty charts
Bemarks on revolving storms, 3rd edition, 1883 ...
List of Time signals established in various parts of the world,

1880

General instructions for hydrographic surveyors, 1888 -

Dock Book, containing Dimensions of the ^Vet and Dry Docks,

patent slips, &c., of the world, 1886 - . - -

On the Svation Pointer and the manner of fixing a ship's position

by its aid, 1886 ......

3 6

586

ADMIRALTY AGENTS POR THE

ABROAD.

SALE 01^ CHARTS

Amsterdam

L. I. Harri

Berlin -

p. lleimer.

BOMBAI*

A. C. Lloyd -

Brisbane (Aus-

....

tralia).

Canada (Toronto) -

Charles Potter -

Cape Town -

Juta & Co.

Charlkstown, S.C.

W. A. Wilson .

Constantinople

G. Carneri

Gibraltar

J. A. Rumbo -

Hague, The -

Van Cleef Brothers -

HAMBURa

Eckhardt & Messtorff

»> - ■ -

ThoB. Downie -

» • " -

Friederichsen & Co. -

Havre -

V. & M. Lepetit

HoBART (Tasmania)

Walch & Sons -

HoNQ Kong -

C, J. Gaupp & Co. -

Honolulu (Sand-

Lieut. Jackson, B.N.

wich Is.)

Malta ...

Capt. G. Carr, R.N. -

Marseilles -

A. Rabier

MELBOURNJi

J. Donne & Son

Montreal

Dawson Bros. -

» * "

Hearn & Harrison

Ne wca8tle(N.S. W, )

R. C. Knaggs & Co. -
Eggerts & Sons

New York

» " "

Bliss & Co.

New Zealand

W. M. Bannatyne & Co.

Paris ...

Baudry, Jeancourt, & Co.

» - . -

Challamel & Co.

Quebec -

Dawson & Co. -

Shanghae

Lane, Crawford, ft Co.

» " -

Morrison & Co.

Singapore

H. EUis -

Sydney ...

BuUard & Co. -

Suez - - .

Capt. Weston -

Vancouver Island -

Hibben & Co. -

Vienna ...

Gerold & Co. •

Prins Hendrikhado, No. 90.

12, Anhalt Stnisse.

Chief clerk to Director of

Indian Marine.
Port Office.

King Street.

Booksellers.

115, East Bay.

17, Rue Grumruck.

Mercantile Marine Service

Association.
Libraries.
Steinhoft I.
9, Stubbenhuk.
61, Neuer Wall.

13, 15, Rue de Paris.
Merchants.
Booksellers.

Port Office.

4, Quai Rive Neuve.
59, Elizabeth Street.
Booksellers.
164C-1642, Notre Dame

Street.
Hunter Street.
74, Wall Street.
128, Front Street.
Wellington.
224, Rue de Rivoli.

5, Rue Jacob.
St. Peter Street.
Merchants.

Do.
Sailors' Home.
George Street.
Port Office.
Victoria.
Buchandlung.

* Bombay is doubtful.

L N 1) O N t Printed by E y b e and Spottiswoope,

FriDters to the Queen's moat Excellent Majesty.

For Her Majesty's Stationery Office.

[97.— 1000.— 4/88.]