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 ^ ' PUOOK'ESS OF DISCOVERY 
 
 ' ON THK 
 
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 MOlU: NOkTJIKUN COASTS 
 
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 SJC« * 
 
 AMERICA. 
 
 •►> 
 
 36' 
 
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 .t" NFIW-YORK: 
 
 .% J. »fc J. HARPER, 82 CUFF -ST. 
 
 183 3. 
 
 "^ -i\ 
 
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 ■4- 
 
HISTORICAL VIEW 
 
 OF 
 
 THE PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY ON THE MORE 
 NORTHERN COASTS 
 
 OP 
 
 AMERICA, 
 
 FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. 
 
 BY PATRICK FRASER TYTLER, ESQ., 
 R.S. AND F.STA. 
 
 WITH 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES OF THE NATURAL HISTORY 
 OF THE NORTH AMERICAN REGIONS. 
 
 \M 
 
 BY JAMES WILSON, ESQ., F.R.S.E. AND M.W.S. 
 
 To which is added an Appendix, containing 
 
 REMARKS ON A LATE MEMOIR OF SEBASTIAN CABOT, WITH A 
 VINDICATION OF RICHARD HAKLUYT. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY A MAP AND NINU ENORAVINGS. 
 
 NEW-YORK : 
 
 PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. & J. HARPER, 
 
 No. 82 CLIFF-STREET, 
 
 AND BOLD BY THE BOOKHKLI.ERS OENERALLY THROUGHOUT 
 THE UNITED STATED. 
 
 4 il 
 1 
 
 1833. 
 
^'0 
 
 6' ^ 
 
 ■^^t/j) 
 
 
 % 
 
 / / 
 
 / 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE AMERICAN EDITION. 
 
 Of all the various expeditions of discovery by 
 land or sea that have been undertaken within the 
 present century, none have received a larger share 
 of attention, or been considered of more importance, 
 than those which had for their object the extension 
 of knowledge respecting the Arctic Regions. In 
 no other portion of the earth's surface has the navi- 
 gator to contend with such formidable impediments, 
 or behold so peculiar an aspect of nature. The 
 conductors of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, one 
 of the most able and useful series that has issued 
 from the British press, selected the Polar Seas and 
 Regions as the subject of their first volume (repub- 
 lished in the United States as No. XIV. of the 
 Family Library), and the popularity of the work 
 affords a strong evidence of the interest excited by 
 its contents. 
 
 In that volume, however, the subject was but 
 commenced ; the most important intelligence from 
 those distant and, until now, almost unknown re- 
 gions has been procured by later and more success- 
 
 A2 
 
r 
 
 : i 
 
 l| 
 
 6 PREFACE. 
 
 ful voyagers than those whose labours were there 
 described : we allude to the expeditions, partly by 
 land and partly by river and coast navigation, to 
 ascertain the limits of North America where the 
 continent borders upon the Arctic circle. The 
 scenery is of the same grand and impressive char- 
 acter, and the adventurers were exposed to hazards 
 if possible still more striking than those encountered 
 by the bold explorers of the polar regions. Their 
 investigations too have made us acquainted with 
 numerous objects, not only of the highest interest 
 to the zoological observer, but of great value as the 
 materials of an extensive commerce. The present 
 volume therefore, originally published in the same 
 excellent collection, exhibiting a full and accurate 
 view of all that is important in modern knowledge 
 of the most remote territories of North America, 
 may be considered as forming a sequel to the " Polar 
 Seas and Regions," and furnishing all that was 
 wanting to a complete account of the whole series 
 of northern discoveries by land and water. 
 
 Of this work the historical and critical depart- 
 ments have been contributed by Patrick Fraser 
 Tytler, Esq., the distinguished author of the His- 
 tory of Scotland, emd the natural history by James 
 Wilson, Esq., — two gentlemen whose names, the 
 publishers are confident, furnish a sufficient guar- 
 antee that the task committed to them has been 
 executed with care. The high qualifications of 
 Mr. Wilson, the American reader has already had 
 ample opportunities to appreciate ; and we may add 
 that, from his intimate acquaintance and correspond- 
 
% 
 
 Preface. 
 
 ence with Dr. Richardson, whos'^ name stands so 
 high among the explorers of the northern regions, 
 he has enjoyed peculiar advantages in preparing the 
 interesting sketches now submitted to the public. 
 The student of natural history who has perused the 
 summaries of African and Indian zoology contained 
 in the 47th, 48th, and 49th numbers of the Family 
 Library, will not fail to perceive theii increased 
 value when examined in connexion with that now 
 given, inasmuch as they afford the materials of a 
 comparative view of the animal kingdom in three 
 principal divisions of our globe, and thereby throw 
 a valuable light on the subject of zoological geog- 
 raphy, which has recently excited the attention of 
 the scientific world. 
 
 The map has been constructed with the greatest 
 care : it comprehends all the recent discoveries on 
 the northern boundary of America, and fully exhibits 
 the routes of the different travellers and navigators 
 whose adventures are recorded in the text. The 
 engravings illustrate several striking specimens of 
 natural history, drawn chiefly from nature, and other 
 objects characteristic of that quarter of the globe. 
 
 New-York, January, 1833. 
 
 ft*! 
 
I 
 
 *"-■■ 
 
 «' >i 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 DISCOVERY or NORTH AMKRICA — EARLY VOYAGES Of THE PORTU* 
 Ui;ii:SK, FRENCH, AND SHAMAHOS. 
 
 First Discovery of North America by ,Tohn Cabot — Voyages of Sebastian 
 Cabot — Of the C'ortereals— Discovery of Labrador— French Discoveries 
 — Vo> anjfes of Verazzano — Of Jacques Cariier— Discovery of Canada- 
 Spanish Voyages of Discovery — Cortes — Ulloa — Atarchon — Vis- 
 caino .' Page 13 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 RVS8IAN AND ENGLISH VOYAGBB. ^ « 
 
 Behring— Tchirikow— Cook and Clerke — Meares— Vancouver— Kotze 
 hue W 
 
 CHAPTER IH. 
 
 HEARNE AND SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 
 
 Colonization of Canada— French Fur Trade— Rise of Hudson's Bay 
 Company— Hearne's Three Journeys— North-west Fur Company — 
 First Journey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 1789— His Second Expe- 
 ditioninl792 97 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 DISCOVERIES ALONG THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC OCEAV. 
 
 First and Second Expeditions of Franklin— Voyage of Capt. Beechey 149 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS TO THE NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 Amelioration in the Character of European Intercourse with uncivil- 
 ized Nations- The Absence of Sandy Deserts a grand Feature in the 
 Physical Attributes of America— General Boundaries of the Districts 
 
10 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 
 4 
 
 afterward treated of in Detail— Early Sources of Information regard- 
 ing the Natural History of North America —General View of the Fur- 
 countries— I'assatrcvs across the llooky Mountains— Plains and Valleys 
 along the Pacific Shore 210 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE QUADUfPEDS OF TUB NORTHERN REOIONS OF AMERICA. 
 
 Inaccuracies of some Historical Writers— No Monkeys in North America 
 — Bats— Shrewmice— Genus Scalops, or .Shrewmole— Other Moles of 
 America— The Star-nose— Various Hears— Difl'erent digitated Quiidru- 
 peds— The Canada Otter- The Sea-otter — The Dogs and Wolves of 
 America— The Foxes— The Beuver — The Musk-riit — Meadow Mice and 
 Lemmings— 'I'he Rocky Mountain Nt^otoma — The American Field- 
 mouse — The Marmots— The Sriuirrel Trihe — The Canada Porcupine — 
 The American Hare— The Polar Hare— The Prairie Hare— The Little 
 Chief Hare— Genus Cervus— The Elk, or Moosedcer — The Reindeer 
 — The Woodland Caribou — The Rocky Mountain Sheep— The Rocky 
 Mountain Goat— The Bison, or American Buffalo— The Musk-ox. . 230 
 
 CHAPTER Vn. 
 
 THE BIRDS OF THE NORTHERN REGIONS OF AMERICA. 
 
 Turkey-buzzard — Golden-eagle— Bald-eagle — Hawks — Owls — Butcher- 
 birds — King-bird — Northern Tyrant — American Wafer-ouzel— Red- 
 breasted Thrush — Blue-bird— Arctic Blue-bird— Cedar-bird, or Ameri- 
 can Chatterer— Snow-bunting — Painted Bunting — Pine-grosbeak — 
 Evening-grosbeak — Scarlet Tanajjer — Cuckoo-bunting — Crows — 
 Woodpeckers — Humming-birds — Swallows — Belted Kingfisher — 
 Grouse — Passenger-pigeon — Grallatores — Natatores — Gulls —Rocky 
 Mountain Golden-eye — Bewick's Swan — Trumpeter-swan — White Pel- 
 ican—Great Nortliern Diver— Black-throaied Diver—Guillemots. . 274 
 
 CHAPTER Vin. 
 
 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE FISHES AND OTHER ZOOLOGICAL PRODUC- 
 TIONS OF THE N(»RTHEUN REGIONS OF AMERICA. 
 
 Sturgeon — Salmon — Trout— Char — Capelan — White Fish— Blue Fish — 
 Herring— Pike — Burbot — Perch— Bull-head — Northern Insects — Their 
 Natural Preservation from Cold— More Northern Extension of Tropical 
 Forms in America than in Europe — Bees — Extension Westwards of 
 the Honey-bee — Diptera— Melville Island Spider— Butterflies.... 300 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES IN THE BOTANY OF THE NORTHERN 
 REOIONS OF AMERICA. 
 
 Mr. Brown's Observations on the relative Proportions of the two great 
 Divisions ofPhsnogamous Plants— Beautiful small Willow fVomEast 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 11 
 
 ITHERN 
 
 two great 
 (Vom East 
 
 Oreenland— Notices of the more remnrltable Species collected by Dr. 
 Riclmrdson — Oulitirn Timtonuni— (oriius Alba— Phlox lioodii — Vi- 
 burnum F.diiie — Azalea NiirliiHulis - I, ilium Vhiladclpliirnm— Epilo- 
 biuin Aucusiirolium — Lt-tlum laiiColium — I,. I'alusire -I'runus Virgi- 
 niaiia-l'yrusOvalis— Cn-pis Nana— ('iiiprariat'oin.'Psta— I'lnun Nigra 
 — P. Alha I*. Uaiiksianii — I'. Microt arpa-l'. LambtTtiana-Enipe- 
 trum ,\i<.M«rn— Myru-a (;al«- I'opulus Trepida— I'opulus Kiilsamit'ora 
 — .luMipcrus j'rostraia-^placiHintri INIiiioides— Dicraiium Filongatum 
 — fiyropliora itrolHtscidra — llypcrbort-a I'ennsylvanica. Mi'ikienbergii, 
 vell»'!i — ("ciniria Riclianisoiiii — I'ucus C'craiioides — Difliciiiiies in tlie 
 Dcteriiiiiiaiion of Arctif Spfcies — Plants recfiitly inlroiiucid to the 
 Pritir^ii Gardens Lmliyrus Dtcai)liyllu.s— Euid a Franklinii— Lupinus 
 Liiioralis-Clarkia Pulctiolia— (Jerardia Capiiata— Now Dodecathcon 
 — Andromeda Tetrajiona — Menziesia Empetrifolia— Azalea Lappoiiica 
 — Dryas Druiimioiidiu 306 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 BKKTCII OF THE GEOLOfilCAT. FF.ATITRES OF SOME OF THE NORTHERN 
 
 DISTKUTri OK AMKRICA. 
 
 Frozen Subsoil of Hudson's Bay— Primitive Rocks of Hayes River- 
 Hill River— Borders of Knee Lake— Remarkable Rock-island of Mag* 
 netic Iron Ore — Lake V^'inipej: — Ivimcstone District— Fort C'hipewyan 
 — Carp Lake — Gneiss Formation of the Barren Grounds — Transparent 
 Waters of Great Bear Lake— Fort Franklin— Bear Lake River— Lig- 
 nite Formation of Mackenzie River— Spontaneous Fire — Pipe Clay — 
 Alluvial Islands at the Mouth of the Mackenzie — Copper Mountains — 
 Copperrjiine River — Islands of the Arctic Sea — Arctic Shore — Cape 
 Barrow— Galena Point — Moore's Bay — Bankes's Peninsula— Barry's 
 Island — Cape Croker— Point Turnagain — General Occurrence of the 
 New Red Sand Stone — Hood's River— Wilberforce Falis— Gneiss For- 
 mation—General Summary 320 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 PRODUC- 
 
 Remarks on a late Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, with a Vindi- 
 cation OF Richard Hakluyt 389 
 

 ^■» - ' -^" 
 
 > I . I i ii HL— aampF 
 
 i' I 
 
 i 
 
 ':> 
 
 ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 Map of tho Northorn Coasts of America To face the Vignette, 
 
 VioNKTTK— Scene near Mount Coplestone, or Western Termination 
 of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Portrait of Ilernan Cortes Page 50 
 
 Gronp of Esquimaux west of the Mackenzie River 192 
 
 Grizzly Hear 23» 
 
 American Gray Wolf..... 24fr 
 
 Hare Indian or Mackenzie River Dog 249 
 
 Head of the American Black Elk 2fi3! 
 
 Rocky Mnnnlain Coat, and Rocky Mountain Sheep 267 
 
 eabine'sGull 2W 
 
 f 
 
♦*,'> 
 
 PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY 
 
 ON TUK 
 
 MORE NORTHERN COASTS 
 
 or 
 
 AMERICA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Discovery of Noith America — Early Voyages of the Porlxt' 
 guescy French^ and Spaniards. 
 
 First Discovery of North America by Jnlin Cabot— Voyajjes or Sebastian 
 Ciibol— Of ihe Cortereals— Discovery o' Labrador— French DiMcov- 
 eries- Voyages of Vera/.zano — Of Jacques Carrier— Discovery of Can- 
 ada— Spanish Voyages of Discovery— Cortes— Ulloa—Alarchon — Vi»- 
 caino. 
 
 When we peruse the lives of such men as De Gama and 
 Columbus, and consider the complicated difficulties over- 
 come by these early navigators, their imperfect means, and 
 the dark and defective state of their knowledge, it is difficult 
 to repress astonishment at the success which attended their 
 exertions, and the magnitude and splendour of their discov- 
 eries. In reflecting, indeed, upon so great a theme as the 
 revelation of a new world, it becomes us to raise our minds 
 from the region of second causes to the awful contempla- 
 tion of that Almighty Being who confounds the calcula- 
 tions of man by bringing stupendous results out of the 
 feeblest human preparations ; and it is one of the finest 
 features in the character of Columbus, that he invariably 
 acted under the conviction of being selected by God for the 
 task which he at length accomplished ; but the admiration 
 
 6 
 
t I 
 
 14 
 
 coi.riMurs. 
 
 '^ 
 
 I : 
 
 iU 
 
 'I i 
 
 ' ( 
 
 1 
 
 roL'anl tliis tjrcat mnn, nnJ that belongs, 
 (l»':»it'«', to many of Ins contcmpora- 
 
 with which wr roij 
 thouL'h in an infnior 
 
 lies in the field (jf discovery, is i'nhanrod rather than ditnin 
 ished hy thi--^ nnion of simple and [)rinutivc faith with ar- 
 dent ^'('iiius and undaunted resolutii>n. 
 
 A former vohnno has been di;voted to tlic description of 
 the darini^ ellorts which have been made to explore the Polar 
 fSeas ; and wr now proceed to direct our attention to annlher, 
 and no less interesting and important chapter in the history 
 of human enterprise, — the discovery of North America, tmd 
 the progress of maritime adve-nturc on the more northern 
 
 coasts of this vast continent. Without dctractinjr in 
 
 any 
 
 degree from the fame of Columbus, it may lie mentioned as 
 a remarkable circum.stance, that although the admiral landed 
 in Hispaniola as early as the 4th of February, 1493, he did 
 not ascertain the existence of the continent of South America 
 till the 30th of May, 1498 ; while there is certain evidence 
 that, almost a year before, an English vessel had reached 
 the shores of North America. As much obscurity hangs 
 over the circumstances of this early voyage, and as I have 
 arrived at a conclusion completely at variance with that 
 adopted by a late acute writer,* it will be necessary to dwell 
 with some minuteness on the history of this great event. 
 
 The attention paid to navigation by the commercial states 
 of Italy, and especially by the republics of Genoa and 
 Venice, is familiar to all acquainted with the history of 
 Europe during the fifteenth century. Italian merchants and 
 agents of opulent commercial houses were found settled in 
 every European state ; and the impetus communicated to 
 the human mind by the discoveries of the Portuguese and 
 the Spaniards rendered the sciences of cosmography and 
 navigation the most popular subjects of instruction which 
 were taught in the schools. A devotion to them became 
 fashionable among the noble and ardent youtlis, who asso- 
 ciated with them all that was romantic and delightful ; 
 
 * The author or the Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 50, 51, an anon}'- 
 inous work, which contains much ingenious criticism and valuable 
 research. It is, however, unhappily confused in its arrangement, and 
 written throughout in a tone of asperity which, hi the discussion of a 
 subject of remote biography, is unpleasant and uncalled for. The author 
 tias been unjustly severe in hi»? animadversions on the labours of Hak- 
 luyt, of whom a brief Vindicaion will be found at the end of this volume 
 
 V 
 
 I. I 
 
JOHN cahot. 
 
 IS 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 they wrre con»iiUTtMl jis tho 'ortain g\ii<le8 to dnring and 
 8UCCR»8t\iI mnrilimo ;ulvrnturp, rmtl tho hnndmaids to 
 wealth unci fame. It was ilioiit this /riom<^ntou.s period, in 
 the year 1494, that we find ii Venetian, named John Cabot, 
 or (Jabota, residinj; in the opubiiit city of nrintt)l. At what 
 precise time ho nettled in Enfflaud is not now discoverable ; 
 we only know that he left Italy for the jmrpoHo of devoting 
 himself to the mercantile profession. He was one of those 
 cnthnsiastic spirits upon whom the career of (>oliunbuK made 
 a deep impression ; and about a year after the return of the 
 great Genoese from his first voyanre, the merchant of Bristol 
 appears to have embraced the idea that new lands uiijjht bo 
 discovered in the north-west, and a passajre in all probability 
 attained by this course to India.* Animated by such a 
 project, Cabot addressed himself to Henry VII., and found 
 immediate encourairement from that monarch, who, though 
 of a cold and cautious disposition, was seldom slow to listen 
 to any proposal which promised an increase of wealth to 
 his exchequer. On the 5th of March, 1 495, the king granted 
 his royal commission to John Cabot, citizen of Venice, and 
 his sons, Louis, .Sebastian, and Sanchez, committing to him 
 and them, and to their heirs and deputies, full authority to 
 sail to all countries and seas of the east, west, and north, 
 under the banner of England, with five ships, of whatever 
 burden and strength in mariners they might choose to em- 
 ploy. The equipment of this squadron was cautiously stip- 
 ulated to be made " at their own proper costs and charges ;" 
 and its object stated to be the discovery of the isles, regions, 
 and provinces of the heathen and infidels which hitherto had 
 been unknown to all the nations of Christendom, in what- 
 ever part of the globe they might be placed. By the same 
 deed the Cabots were empowered to set up the banners and 
 ensigns of England in the newly-discovered countries ; to 
 subdue and possess them as lieutenants of the king ; and 
 to enjoy the privilege of exclusive trade : the wary mon- 
 arch, however, annexing to these privileges the condition, 
 that he was to receive the fifth part of the capital gain upon 
 every voyage, and binding their ships to return to the port 
 of Bristol.! 
 
 * Tiraboschi, Storia <lella Letter. Ital.. vol. vi. b. i. cii,.. 6. ^2i. 
 t I have noarly followed the words of this imi)ormnt(i(>cuine«t, wtiich 
 
 1>. " 
 
 111 
 
 is still preserved. Iljmor, l-'ctjilurii AugU«, vol. xii, p. 5'J5. 
 
 r€ 
 
mi^^^tuUL^r •i:S\tm m^ 
 
 16 JOHN CABOT DISCOVERS NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 Two important facts are ascertained by this authentic 
 document : it proves that John Cabot, a citizen of Venice, 
 was the principal author of, and adventurer hi, the project ; 
 and that no voyage with a similar object had been undertaken 
 prior to the 5th of March, 1495. 
 
 The expedition, however, did not sail till the spring of 
 1497, more than a twelvemonth subsequent to the date of 
 the original commission. What occasioned this delay it is 
 now difficult to determine ; but as the fleet was to be 
 equipped at the sole expense of the adventurers, it is not 
 improbable that Cabot had required the interval to raise the 
 necessary capital. It is much to be regretted that in no 
 contemporary chronicle is there any detailed account of the 
 voyage. We know, however, that it was conducted by 
 John Cabot in person, who took with him his son Sebastian, 
 then a very young man. Its result was undoubtedly the 
 discovery of North America ; and although the particulars of 
 this great event are lost, its exact date has been recorded by 
 an unexceptionable witness, not only to a day, but even to 
 an hour. On an ancient map, drawn by Sebastian Cabot, 
 the son, whose name appears in the commission by the king, 
 engraved by Clement Adams, a contemporary, and pub- 
 lished, as there is reason to believe, under the eye of Sebas- 
 tian, was written in Latin the following brief but clear and 
 satisfactory account of the discovery : — "In the year of our 
 Lord 1497, John Cabot, a Venetian, and his son Sebastian, 
 discovered that country, which no one before his time had 
 ventured to approach, on the 24th of June, about Ave 
 o^clock in the morning. He called the land Terra Primum 
 Visa, because, as I conjecture, this was the place that first 
 met his eyes in looking from the sea. On the contrary, the 
 island which lies opposite the land he called the Island of 
 St. John, — as I suppose, because it was discovered on the 
 festival of St. John the Baptist. I'he inhabitants wear 
 beasts' skins and the intestines of animals for clothing, es- 
 teeming them as highly as we do our most precious gar- 
 ments. In war their weapons are the bow and arrow, 
 spears, darts, slings, and wooden clubs. The country is 
 steril and uncultivated, producing no fruit ; from which 
 circumstance it happens that it is crowded with white bears, 
 and stags of an unusual height and size. It yields plenty 
 
A 
 
 LICA. 
 
 authentic 
 [)f Venice, 
 le project ; 
 mdertaken 
 
 spring of 
 he date of 
 delay it is 
 vas to be 
 s, it is not 
 o raise the 
 :hat in no 
 unt of the 
 ducted by 
 Sebastian, 
 l)tedly the 
 ticulars of 
 scorded by 
 it even to 
 [an Cabot, 
 y the king, 
 and pub- 
 of Sebas- 
 clear and 
 ear of our 
 Sebastian, 
 time had 
 bout five 
 
 Primum 
 that first 
 
 rary, the 
 
 sland of 
 d on the 
 Its wear 
 
 ling, es- 
 ous gar- 
 J arrow, 
 untry is 
 n which 
 te bears, 
 plenty 
 
 DISCOVERY OF NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 17 
 
 of fish, and these very large ; such as seals and salmon : 
 there are soles also above an ell in length ; but especially 
 great abundance of that kind of fish called in the vulgar 
 tongue baccalaos. In the same island, also, breed hawks, 
 so black in their colour that they wonderfully resemble 
 ravens ; besides which there are partridges and eagles of 
 dark plumage."* 
 
 Such is the notice of the discovery of North America ; 
 and as some doubt has lately been thrown upon the subject, 
 it may be remarked that the evidence of the fact contained in 
 this inscription is perfectly unexceptionable. ' It comes from 
 Clement Adams, the intimate friend of Richard Chancelor ; 
 and Chancelor lived, as is well known, in habits of daily inter- 
 course vvith Sebastian Cabot, who accompanied his father on 
 the first voyage of discovery. Unfortunately, both the original 
 map and the engraving are lost ; but happily Purchas has 
 preserved the information that the engraved map by Adams 
 bore the date of 1549 ;t at which time Sebastian Cabot was 
 In such great reputation at the court of Edward VI., that 
 for his services he had received a princely pension. This 
 young monarch, as we learn from Burnet, showed a peculiar 
 fondness for maritime affairs. He possessed a collection of 
 charts, which were hung up in his cabinet, and among 
 them was the engraving of Cabot's map. The inscription, 
 therefore, must have been seen there and elsewhere by 
 Sebastian ; and, when we consider that the date of the en- 
 graving corresponds with the time when he was in high 
 favour with the king, it does not seem improbable that this 
 navigator, to gratify his youthful and royal patron, employed 
 Adams to engrave from his own chart the map of North 
 America, and that the facts stated in the inscription were 
 furnished by himself. The singular minuteness of its terms 
 seems to prove this ; for who but he, or some one personally 
 present, after the lapse of fifty-two years, could have com- 
 municated the information that the discovery was made 
 about five o'clock in the morning of the 24th June 1 If, 
 however, this is questioned as being conjectural, the fact that 
 Sebastian must have seen the inscription is sufficient to 
 Tender the evidence perfectly conclusive upon the important 
 point of John Cabot being the discoverer of North / inerica. 
 
 llakluyt, vol. iii. \\ fi. 
 
 M 
 
 t Piirchas's Pilgrims, .vol. iii. p. 807. 
 B3 
 
■^^utggm^muaauM 
 
 18 
 
 DISCOVERY OF NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 That he had along with him in his ship his son Sebastian 
 cannot, v/e think, in the opinion of any impartial person, 
 detract from or infringe upon the merit of the father. But, 
 to complete the proof^ a late writer has availed himself of 
 an imperfect extract from a record of the rolls, furnished by 
 the industrious Hakluyt, to discover an original document 
 which sets the matter altogether at rest. This is the second 
 commission for discovery, granted by Henry VII. on the 3d 
 of February, and in the thirteenth year of his reign, to 
 the same individual who conducted the first expedition. The 
 letters are directed to John Kabotto, Venetian, and permit 
 him to sail with six ships " to the land and isles of late 
 found by the said John in our name and by our command- 
 ment."* It presents a singular picture of the inability of 
 an ingenious and otherwise acute mind to estimate the 
 weight of historical evidence, when we find the biographer 
 of Sebastian Cabot insisting, in the face of such a proof as 
 this, that the glory of the first discovery of North America 
 is solely due to Sebastian, and that it may actually be doubted 
 whether his father accompanied the expedition at all.f 
 
 Immediately after the discovery the elder Cabot appears 
 to have returned to England ; and on the 10th of August we 
 find, in the privy purse expenses of Henry VII., the sum 
 of ten pounds awarded to him who found the New Isle, 
 which was probably the name then given to Newfoundland. 
 Although much engrossed at this moment with the troubles 
 which arose in his kingdom in consequence of the Cornish 
 rebellion, the war with Scotland, and the attempt upon the 
 crown by Perkin Warbeck, the king determined to pursue 
 the enterprise, and to encourage a scheme for colonization 
 under the conduct of the original discoverer. To this enter- 
 prising navigator he, on the 3d of February, I497,t granted 
 those second letters-patent just alluded to, which conferred 
 an ampler authority and more favourable terms than the first 
 commission. He empowered John Kabotto, Venetian, to 
 take at his pleasure six English ships, with their necessary 
 apparel, and to lead them to the land and isles lately found 
 by him according to the royal command. Cabot was also 
 permitted to receive on board all such masters, mariners, 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 70. 
 t 01d8tyle,>-14i>8, new style. 
 
 t Ibid. p. 50. 
 
SEBASTIAN CABOT. 
 
 19 
 
 pages, and other subjects, as chose to accompany him ; 
 and it seems probable, from some entries in the privy purse 
 expenses, that Launcelot Thirkill of London, Thomas Brad- 
 ley, and John Carter, embarked in the adventure.* 
 
 When about to set sail on his second voyage, John Cabot, 
 who had previously received from Henry the honour of 
 knighthood, appears, from some cause not now discoverable, 
 to have been prevented from taking the command ;t and 
 though the name of Sebastian was not included in the 
 second royal commission, he was promoted to the situation 
 left vacant by his father. He must still indeed have been a 
 young man ; but he had accompanied the first voyage, and 
 at an early age developed that genius for naval enterprise 
 which afterward so remarkably distinguished him. We 
 know from his account of himself that, at the time his 
 parents carried him from Venice to London, he had attained 
 some knowledge of the sphere ; and when about this period 
 the great discovery of Columbus began to be talked of in 
 England as a thini; almost more divine than human, the 
 effect of it upon his youthful imagination was to excite "a 
 mighty longing," to use his own words, " an<l burning desire 
 in his heart that he too should perform some illustrious 
 action."t With such dispositions we may easily imagine 
 how rapid must have been his progress in naval science, 
 with the benefit of his father's example and instructions. 
 It is not matter of surprise, therefore, that, though probably 
 not more than twenty-three years old, the conduct of the 
 enterprise was intrusted to him. He accordingly sailed from 
 England with two ships in the summer of 149S, and directing 
 his course by Iceland soon reached Newfoundland, which 
 he called Terra de Baccalaus, from the great quantity of fish 
 of that name. 
 
 Of this remark 'ble voyage a short account is preserved by 
 Peter Martyr, the historian of the New World, a writer of 
 high authority, and so intimate a friend of the navigator, 
 
 * See Mr. Nicholas's excellent collection entitled Excerpta Historica, 
 p. 116, 117. 
 
 * The cause might be his death ; but this is conjecture,— of the fact 
 there is no direct proof; or (he kni>;hihood it is not possible to doubt. 
 See, in the Vindication of H»kluyt, the remarks on the errors of tbebiog* 
 rapher of Cabot in his chapter on tius subject. 
 
 ; Raausio, Viaggi, vol. i. p. 414. 
 
 ir 
 
W^'» iW 
 
 i: 
 
 < t 
 
 W 
 
 SEBASTIAN CABOT. 
 
 that, at the time he wrote the passage which we now give, 
 Sebastian was in the habit of paying him frequent visits at 
 his house. " These northern seas," says this writer, " have 
 been navigated and explored by Sebastian Cabot, a Vene- 
 tian by birth, whom his parents, when they were setting out 
 to st ttle in Britain, according to the common custom of the 
 Venetians, who for the sake of commercial adventure be- 
 come citizens of every country, carried along with them 
 when he was little more than an infant.* He fitted out two 
 ships in England at his own charges, and first with three 
 hundred men directed his course so far towards the North 
 Pole, that even in the month of July he found great heaps 
 of ice swimming in the sea, and almost continual daylight. 
 Yet he saw the land free from ice, which had been melted 
 by the heat of the sun. Thus, observing such masses of ice 
 before him, he was compelled to turn his sails and follow 
 the west ; and, coasting still by the shore, was brought so 
 far into the south, by reason of the land bending much to 
 the southward, that it was there almost equal in latitude 
 with the sea called Fretum Herculeum. He sailed to the 
 west till he had the Island of Cuba on his left-hand, almost 
 in the same longitude. As he passed along those coasts, 
 called by him Baccalaos, he affirmed that he found the same 
 current of the waters towards the west which the Spaniards 
 met with in the southern navigations, with the single differ- 
 ence that they flowed more gently. From this circum- 
 stance it appears to me," says Martyr, " not only a probable, 
 but an almost necessary conclusion, that there must exist, 
 between both the continents, hitherto unknown, great gaps 
 or open places, through which the waters continually pass 
 from the east to the west. * • * * Sebastian Cabot him- 
 self named these lands Baccalaos, because in the seas 
 thereabout he found such an immense multitude of large 
 fish like tunnies, called baccalaos by the natives, that they 
 actually impeded the sailing of his ships. He found also 
 the inhabitants of these regions covered with beasts' skins, 
 yet not without the use of reason. He also relates that 
 there are plenty of bears in these parts, which feed upon 
 
 * Cabot was born in England, and carried by his father into Italy yrhen 
 'our years old. He was afterward brought back to England when a 
 youth, "assai giovanc,"— Kamusio, vol. i. n. 414. Mojxjoir of C^bot. 
 |k 69 
 
 y ' 
 
martyr's account of his voyage. 21 
 
 fish. It is the practice of these animals to throw themselves 
 into the midst of the shoals of fish, and each suizing his 
 prey, to hury their claws in the scales, drag them to land, 
 and there devour them. On this account, he says, that those 
 bears meddle little with men. * * * Cabot is my inti- 
 mate friend, and one whom it is my delight to have frequently 
 under my roof; for, being called out of England by the 
 command of the King of Castile after the death of Henry 
 VII., he was made one of our council and assistants relating 
 to the affairs of the new Indies ; and he looks daily for ships 
 to be fitted out for him that he may discover this hidden 
 secret of nature. I expect," concludes Peter Martyr, " that 
 he will be able to set out on his voyage during the course 
 of the next year, 1516, and in the month of March."* 
 When it is known that Sebastian Cabot's second voyaget 
 from England to North America did not take place till 1517, 
 it becomes certain that the above passage, written in 1515, 
 must relate to the expedition of 1498 ; and remembering 
 that the author was personally intimate with this navigator, 
 and wrote only seventeen years after the voyage had taken 
 place, we are inclined to set a high value on such an authority. 
 It is deeply to be regretted that the original maps drawn by 
 so eminent a dlsc5verer, and the discourses with which he 
 illustrated them, are now lost ;t but in this deficiency of 
 original materials the work of Ramusio, — a collector of 
 voyages who was a contemporary of Cabot, — supplies some 
 valuable information. 
 
 In the first volume of his Voyages this amusing writer 
 has introduced a discourse upon the different routes by 
 which the spices of the East were conveyed in ancient times 
 to Europe ; and towards the conclusion of the essay he brings 
 in a subject which then deeply occupied the attention of 
 learned men, — the project, namely, for discovering a passage 
 to the kingdom of Cathay and the coasts of India, by the 
 
 * Peter Martvr, De Orbe Novo. 3d decad. cap. 6. Edition by Hakluyt 
 p. 232.— Eden's Transl "tion in Willes's Hist, of Travayie, p. 125.— The 
 hidden secret, or natural phenomenon, of which Cabot was e.xpecied to 
 penetrate the cause, is slated by Martyr at p. 231.— it was to resolve the 
 que.siion, " Why the seas in theiie parts run with so swid a current 
 fl-om thii east to the west V 
 
 t Althougi) the son accompanied the father, I consider the voyage of 
 1497 as solely conducted by John Cabot. 
 
 t Memoir of Cabot, p. 41. 
 
 \ 
 
 <!?■ 
 
■ • im v ■■ i .nmn rwtwiyt^wi 
 
 1 ' 
 
 22 
 
 RAMUSIO 
 
 ^ 
 
 north-west. In the discussion of this point, Ramusio mi- 
 nutely describes a conversation which took place at the villa 
 of the celebrated Italian physician and poet Fracastoro, 
 between Ramusio himself, Fracastoro, an architect named 
 St. Michael, and a certain philosopher and mathematician, 
 who gave them an account of an interview which he once 
 had with Sebastian Cabot in the city of Seville. The 
 whole passage is interesting, whether we look to the infor- 
 mation regarding Cabot, or to the pleasing picture it brings 
 before us of the great Fracastoro in his philosophic and 
 classical retreat at Caphi. No apology, therefore, need be 
 made for presenting it to the reader. " Having thus given 
 you," says the Italian writer, " all that I could extract 
 from ancient and modern authors upon this subject, it 
 would be inexcusable in me if I did not relate a high and 
 admirable discourse which some few months ago it was my 
 
 food fortune to hear, in company with the excellent architect 
 [ichael de St. Michael, in the sweet and romantic country- 
 seat of Hieronymo Fracastoro, named Caphi, situated near 
 Verona, while we sat on the top of a hill commanding a 
 view of the whole of the Lago di Garda. * * * Being then, 
 as I said, at Caphi, where we had gone to visit our excellent 
 friend Hieronymo, we found him on our arrival sitting in 
 company with a certain gentleman, whose name, from mo- 
 tives of delicacy and respect, I conceal. He was, however, 
 a profound philosopher and mathematician, and at that 
 moment engaged in exhibiting to Fracastoro an instrument 
 lately constructed to show a new motion of the heavens. 
 Having reasoned upon this point for a long time, they by 
 way of recreation caused a large globe, upon which the 
 world was minutely laid down, to be brought ; and, having 
 this before him, the gentleman I have mentioned began to 
 speak to the following purpose." Ramusio, after this intro- 
 duction, gives us, as proceeding from the stranger, a great 
 mass of geographical information, after which he introduces 
 him discussing with Fracastoro the probability of a north- 
 west passage to India. "At this point of his conversation," 
 says he, " after the stranger had made a pause for a few mo- 
 ments, he turned to us and said, • Do you no: >.now, 
 regarding this project of going to India by the noith-west, 
 what was formerly achieved by your fellow-citizen the Vene- 
 tian, a most extraordinary man, and so deeply conversant in 
 
HIS ACCOUNT OF SKBASTUN CABOT. 
 
 23 
 
 every thing connected with navigation and the science of 
 cosmography, that in these days he hath not his equal in 
 Spain, insomuch that for his ability he is preferred above all 
 other pilots that sail to the West Indies, who may not pass 
 thither without his license, on which account he is denom- 
 inated Piloto Mayor, or Grand Pilot I' When to this ques- 
 tion we replied that we knew him not, the stranger proceeded 
 to tell us, that being some years ago in the city of Seville he 
 was desirous to gain an acquaintance with the navigations 
 of the Spaniards, when he learned that there was in the city 
 a valiant man, a Venetian born, named Sebastian Cabot, who 
 had the charge of those things, being an expert man in the 
 science of navigation, and one who could make charts for 
 the sea with his own hand. ' Upon this report of him,' 
 continued he, * I sought his acquaintance, and found him a 
 pleasant and courteous person, who loaded me with kind- 
 ness, and showed me many things ; among the rest a large 
 map of the world, with the navigations of the Portuguese 
 antl the Spaniards minutely laid down upon it ; and in ex- 
 hibiting this to me, he informed me that his father, many 
 years ago, having left Venice and gone to settle as a mer- 
 chant in England, had taken him to London when he was 
 still a youth, yet not so backward but he had then ac- 
 quired the knowledge of the Latin tongue, and some ac- 
 quaintance with the sphere. It so happened, he said, that 
 his father died at that time when the news arrived that Don 
 Christopher Columbus had discovered the coast of the Indies, 
 of which there was much talk at the court of Henry VII., 
 who then reigned in England.' " The effect of this discov- 
 ery upon Cabot's youthful ambition, which we have already 
 alluded to, is next described by Ramusio from the report of 
 the stranger, and he then proceeds in these remarkable 
 words : — " * Being aware,' said Cabot to me, ' that if I sailed 
 with the wind bearing me in a north-westerly course, I 
 should come to India by a shorter route, I suddenly imparted 
 my ideas to the king, who was much pleased with them, 
 and fitted out for me three caravels with all necessary stores 
 and equipments This,' he added, ' was in the beginning 
 of the summer of the year 1496, and I began to sail towards 
 the north-west with the idea that the first land I should 
 make would be Cathay, from which I intended afterward to 
 direct my course to the Indies ; but after the lapse of several 
 
 H 
 
 W 
 
 ^' 'ill 
 
 1.1 
 
 i \ fMJ; 
 
 '! 
 
24 
 
 SEBASTIAN CABOT. 
 
 ^Ji 
 
 f, 
 
 
 ^ ! 
 
 days, having discovered it, I found that the coast ran 
 towards the north to my great disappointment. From thence 
 sailing along it, to ascertain if I could find any gulf to run 
 into, 1 could discover none, and thus having proceeded as 
 far as 56° under the Pole, and seeing that here the coast 
 trended towards the east, I despaiied of discovering any 
 passage, and after this turned back to examine the same 
 coast m its direction towards the equinoctial, — always with 
 the same object of finding a passage to the Indies, and thus 
 at last I reached the country at present named Florida, 
 where, since my provisions began to fail me, I took the reso- 
 lution of returning to England. On arriving in that coun- 
 try I found great tumults, occasioned by the rising of the 
 common people and the war in Scotland ; nor was there 
 any more talk of a voyage to these parts. For this reason 
 I departed into Spain to their most Catholic majesties, 
 Ferdinand and Isabella, who, having learned what I had ac- 
 complished, received me into their service, provided for me 
 handsomely, and despatched me on a voyage of discovery to 
 the coast of Brazil, where I found an exceeding deep and 
 mighty river, called at present La Plata, into which I sailed 
 and explored its course into the continent more than six- 
 score leagues. * * * This,' continued the stranger gentle- 
 man, addressing himself to us, * is the substance of all that 
 I learned from the Signor Sebastian Cabot.' "* 
 
 Such is the passage from Ramusio ; and from it we have 
 another proof that of this second voyage, which probably 
 took place after the death of the original discoverer, Sebas- 
 tian Cabot had the sole command ; that its object was to 
 find a north-west passage to India, and that the highest 
 latitude which he reached was 56°. I am quite aware 
 some of the statements in this extract are erroneous, and 
 that Gomara, an author of good authority, carries Sebastian 
 as far as 58° north ;t but, considering the particular cir- 
 cumstances under which the information is conveyed, there 
 is no reason to doubt that the general sketch of the voyage 
 is correct : and it establishes the important fact, that as 
 early as 1498, the coast of North America, from the latitude 
 of 56° or 68° north to the coast of Florida, had been dis- 
 covered by the English. The domestic affairs of Henry» 
 
 * Viaggi del Ramusio, torn. i. p. 413, 414 
 t Memoir of Cabot, p. 87. 
 
CORTEREAL. 
 
 25 
 
 however, and the involved political negotiations with Frat. 
 and the continent, undoubtedly prevented the kins from 
 holding out to Sebastian that encouragement with which so 
 great a discovery ought to have been rewarded ; and afler 
 an interval of fourteen years, of which we have no certain 
 n^^oiint, tilts great navigator left England and entered into 
 the service of Spain. 
 
 The Portuguese, a nation to whose genius and perse- 
 verance the sister sciences of geography and navigation 
 owe some of their highest triumphs, were at this period in 
 the zenith of their fame, animated with an enthusiastic 
 spirit of enterprise, and ready to consider every discovery 
 not conducted by themselves as an encroachment upon their 
 monopoly of maritime glory. Inspired with this jealousy, 
 Gaspar de Cortereal, of whose expedition notice has already 
 been taken in this Library,* determined to pursue the track 
 of discovery opened by Cabot in the north-west, and in 
 1500 sailed with two ships from Lisbon, animated by the 
 desire of exploring this supposed new route to Tndia.t 
 Cortereal touched at the Azores, where he completed his 
 crews, and took in provisions. He then steered a course 
 never, as far as he knew, traced by any former navigator, 
 and came upon a country to which he gave the name of 
 Terra Verde, but which is carefully to be distinguished 
 from that called Greenland. This was in truth the coast of 
 Labrador, denominated in an old map published at Rome, in 
 1508, Terra Corterealis. It lay between the west and 
 north-west ; and, after having explored it for upwards of 600 
 miles without reaching any termination, Cortereal con- 
 cluded that it must form part of the mainland, which was 
 connected with another region discovered in the preceding 
 
 * Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas, Family Library, No. 
 XIV. ; and Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, Ibid, 
 No. XXX. 
 
 t Cortereal had been educated in the household of the King of Por- 
 tugal before he canie to the throne, and when he still bore the title of 
 Duke de Beja. — Damiano Goes, Chronica del Rey Dom. Manuel, c. 6&, 
 cap. 66, p. 187. His character, as given by this ancient and contemporary 
 chronicler, is brief and forcible. " Gaspar de Cortereal, son of John 
 Vaz Cortereal, was a man of an enterprising and determined character, 
 ardently thirsting after glory ; for which reason he proposed to set out 
 on a voyage of discovery, seeking countries in northern latitudes, we 
 (the Portuguese) having at this time discovered many in soathern 
 parts." 
 
 O 
 
 
•*«- 
 
 26 
 
 CORTEREAL. 
 
 yr ar in the north, — evidently alluding to the voyage of Se* 
 b istian Cabot in 1498.* The most curious and authentic 
 account of this rcuiiirkable expedition of the Portuguese 
 havigjitor is to be found in a letter, written by Pietro Pas- 
 quiligi, the Venetian ambassador at the court of Portugal, 
 to his brothers in Italy, only eleven days after the return 
 of Cortereal from his first voyage. " (3n the 8th of Octo- 
 ber," says he, " there arrived in this port one of the two 
 caravels which were last year despatched by the King of 
 Portugal for the discovery of lands lying in the north, un- 
 der the command of Gaspar Cortereal. He relates that he 
 has discovered a country situated between the west and 
 north-west, distant from this about 2000 miles, and which 
 before the present time was utterly unknown. They ran 
 along the coast between 000 and 700 miles without arriving 
 at its termination, on which account they concluded it to be 
 the same continent that is connected with another land dis- 
 covered Inst year in the north, which, however, the caravels 
 could not reach, the sea being frozen, and a vast quantity 
 of snow having fallen. They were confirmed in the same 
 opinion by finding so many mighty rivers, which certainly 
 were too numerous and too large to have proceeded from an 
 island. They report that this land is thickly peopled, and 
 that the houses are built of verv long be ir*i8 of timber, and 
 covered with the furs of the skins of fishes. They have 
 brought hither along with them seven of the inhabitants, 
 including men, women, and children ; and in the other 
 caravel, which is looked for every hour, they are bringing 
 fifty more. These people, in colour, figure, stature, and 
 expression, greatly resemble gipsies : they are clothed with 
 the skins of different beasts, but chiefly of the otter, wear- 
 ing the hair outside in summer, and next to the skin in 
 winter. These skins, too, are not sewed together, nor 
 shaped to the bod)^ in any fashion, but wrapped around their 
 arms and shoulders exactly as taken from the animals ; 
 while they conceal the parts which nature forbids us to ex- 
 pose with strong cords made of the sinews or entrails of 
 fishes. On this account their appearance is completely 
 savage ; yet they are very sensible to shame, gentle in 
 their manners, and better made in their arms, legs, and 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 241. 
 
 'M 
 
CORTEREAL. 
 
 27 
 
 shoulders than can bo pxprcsacd. Their faces aro punc- 
 tured in the same manner as t!ie Indians ; sotne have six 
 marks, some ci<rht, some fewer : they use a lanrruajro of 
 their own, but it is understood by no one. Moreover, I be- 
 lieve that every possible Inni^uayo has been addressed to 
 them. They have no iron in their country, but manufac- 
 ture knives out of certain kinds of stones, with which they 
 point their arrows. They have also broaj|ht from this 
 island a piece of a broken sword inlaid with gold, which wo 
 can pronounce undoubtedly to have been made in Italy ; 
 and one of the children had in his ears two pieces {todini) 
 of silver, which as certainly appear to have been made in 
 Venice, — a circumstance inducing me to believe that their 
 country belongs to the continent, since it is evident that if 
 it had been an island where any vessel had touched before 
 this time, we should have heard of it. They have great 
 plenty of salmon, herring, stockfish, and similar kinds of 
 fish. They have also abundance of timber, and principally 
 of the pine, fitted for the masts and yards of ships ; on 
 which account his serene majesty anticipates the greatest 
 advantage from this country, both in furnishing timber for 
 his shipping, of which he at present stands in great need, 
 and also from the men who inhabit it, who appear admira- 
 bly fitted to endure labour, and will probably turn out the 
 best slaves which have been discovered up to this time. 
 This arrival appeared to me an event of which.it was right 
 to inform you ; and if on the arrival of the other caravel I 
 receive any additional information, it shall be transmitted 
 to you in like manner."* 
 
 Nothing could be more cruel and impolitic than the con- 
 duct of Cortereal in seizing and carrying into captivity 
 these unfortunate natives ; and it is difficult to repress our 
 indignation at the heartless and calculating spirit with 
 which the Portuguese monarch entered into the adventure, 
 contemplating the rich supplies of slaves that were to bo 
 imported from this new country, t It is an ingenious con- 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 239, 240, 
 
 t I observe that in the History of Discovery and Adventure in the 
 Polar Seas, Mr. Murray has questioned the accuracy of the opinion 
 stated by the biographer of Cabot, "that the objects of Cortereal's 
 second voyage were timber and slaves." The letter, however, of Pas- 
 quiligi seems to me decisive that, if not the sole, they were at least very 
 principal objects in the second voyage 
 
NM. 
 
 28 
 
 CORTEREAL. 
 
 iM 
 
 jecturc of the biographer of Cabot, to whose research we 
 owe our acquaintunco with this letter, that the name Term 
 de Laborador waH given to the coast by the Portuguese 
 slave-mcrcliants in consequence of the admirable qualities 
 of the natives as labourers, and in anticipation of the profits 
 to be derived from a monopoly of this unchristian traffic. 
 
 But distress and disatiter pursued the speculation. On 
 the 15th May, 1501, Cortereal departed on a second voy- 
 age, with a determination to pursue his discovery, and, as 
 we may plausibly conjecture, to return with a new cargo 
 of slaves and timber ; but he was never again heard of. A 
 similar dark and unhappy fate befell his brother, M':;hael 
 de Cortere.al, who sailed with two ships in search of his 
 lost relative, but of whom no accounts ever again reached 
 Portugal. The most probable conjecture seems to be that 
 they both fell victims to the just indignation of the natives, 
 whose wives, children, and fathers had been stolen away 
 during their first visit to the coast. "The king," says 
 Goes, " felt deeply the loss of these two brothers, so much 
 the more as they had been educated by him ; and on this 
 account, moved by royal and gracious tenderness, in the 
 following year, 1603, he sent at his own expense two armed 
 ships in search of them ; but it could never be discovered 
 where or in what manner either the one or the other was 
 lost, on Wiiictx rtocount this province of Terra Verde, where 
 It was supposed the two brothers perished, was called the 
 Land of the Cortereals."* The description of the inhabit- 
 ants, as given by this contemporary chronicler, contains a 
 few additional particulars to those mentioned by Pasquiligi. 
 " The people of the country," says he, " are very barbarous 
 and uncivilized, almost equally so with the natives of Santa 
 Cruz, except that they are white, and so tanned by the 
 cold that the white colour is lost as they grow older, and 
 they become blackish. They are of the middle size, very 
 lightly made, and great archers. Instead of javelins, they 
 employ sticks burnt in the end, which they use as missiles 
 to as good purpose as if they were pointed with fine steel. 
 They clothe themselves in the skins of beasts, of which 
 there are great plenty in the country. They live in caverns 
 of rocks, and in houses shaped like nests {choupanas), 
 
 * Damlano Goes, Cbronica del Rey Dom. Manuel, part i. c. 60. 
 
UNFOUNDED CLAIM OP THE PORTUGUESE. 29 
 
 They have no laws, believe much in augurios, live in mat- 
 rimony, anil are very jeah)Us of thtar vvivoH, — in which 
 things they much rrscnibh! the linphuulrrs, who also in- 
 habit a norlbiTii latitude under 70° to 85°, subject to the 
 kinjjs of Nciway and Sweden."* 
 
 Upon these voyages of the Cortercals the Portuguese 
 attempted to establish a claim to the discovery of Newfound- 
 land and the adjacent coasts of North America, though 
 there is ample historical evidence that both had been visited 
 by the two Cabots three years prior to the departure of Cor- 
 tereal from Lisbon. Maps appear to have l)een forged to 
 support this unfair assumption ; and in a volume published 
 by Madrignanon at Milan in 15()H, which represents itself 
 to be a translation of the Italian work entitled " Paesi 
 Nuovamente Ritrovati," the original letter of Pasquiligi, 
 describing the arrival of Gaspar Cortereal, is disgracefully 
 garbled and corrupted, — for the purpose, as it would seem, 
 of keeping the prior discoveries of the Cabots in the back- 
 ground, and advancing a fabricated claim for the Portuguese.! 
 It is unfortunate that this disingenuous process of poisoning 
 the sources of historic truth has succeeded, and that many 
 authors, not aware of its apocryphal character, which has 
 been acutely exposed by the biographer of Cabot, have 
 given a pernicious currency to the fable of Madrignanon. 
 
 About fourteen years after his return from the voyage of 
 1498, we have seen that Sebastian Cabot was induced to 
 enter the service of Spain ; but, though highly esteemed for 
 his eminent abilities, appointed one of the Council of the 
 Indies by Ferdinand, and nominated to 'he command of an 
 expedition to the north in search of a north-west passage, 
 he appears to have been baffled and thwarted in his plans by 
 the jealousy of the Spaniards, and was at last compelled to 
 abandon them on the death of Ferdinand. He then returned 
 to England ; and, indefatigable in the prosecution of that 
 great object which formed the prominent pursuit of his life, 
 induced Henry VIII. to fit out a small squadron for the dis- 
 covery of the north-west passage to India. Unfortunately, 
 however, for the success of the voyage. Sir Thomas Pert, 
 at this time vice-admiral of England, was intrusted with the 
 
 ♦ Damiano Goes, Chronica del Rey Doir;. Manuel, parti, c. 60, p. 87. 
 t Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 251, S52. 
 
 C 2 
 
30 SEBASTIAN CABOT ENTERS HUDSON'S BA/. 
 
 P 
 
 supreme command, whose want of courage and resolution 
 was the cause of its ultimate failure. The object of Cabot 
 was to proceed by Iceland towards the American coast, 
 which he had already explored as far as 56°, according to 
 Ramusio, or, if we follow Gomara, 68° north. This would 
 lead him, to use the expression of Thome,* by the back of 
 Newfoundland, and from this point, pursuing his voyage far- 
 ther to the northward, he expected to find a passage to the 
 kingdom of Cathay. The ships accordingly set sail, and 
 on the 11th of June they had reached the 67^° of northern 
 latitude. They here found the sea open, and Cabot enter- 
 tained a confident hope of sailing through a bay or " fret," 
 which they had then entered, to the shores of the Eastern 
 Cathay, when a mutiny of the mariners, and the faint- 
 heartedness of Sir Thomas Pert, compelled him, much 
 against his inclination, to desist from the further prosecution 
 of the voyage, and return home.f From the high latitude 
 
 * Letter of Robert Thome.— Hakluyt, edition of 1589, p. 250,—" And 
 if they will take their course, after they be past the Pole, towards the 
 Occident, they shall goe in the back side of the Newfoundland, which 
 of late was discovered by your grace's subjects, until they come to the 
 back side and south seas of the Indies Occidental : and so, continuing 
 their voyage, they may return thorow the Straight of Magellan to this 
 country, and so they compass also the world by that way ; and if they 
 goe this third way, and after they be past the Pole, goe right toward 
 the Pole Antarticke, and then decline towards the lands and islands 
 situated between the tropicks and under the equinoctial, without doubl 
 they shall find there the richest lands and islands of the world, of gold, 
 precious stones, balmis, spices, and other thinges that we here esteem 
 most, which come out of strange countries, and may return the same 
 way.*' See also Gomara, as quoted in the Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, 
 p. 21. 
 
 t It is evidently to this third voyage that the passage in Ramusio, vol. 
 iii. p. 4, of the " Discorso sopra U terzo volume," applies. Memoir of 
 Cabot, p. 117. It is valuable, as this author, though he appears by mis- 
 take to have put the name of Henry VII. for that of Henry VIII., quoted 
 in it a letter which many years before he had received from Sebastian 
 Cabot himself. He (Ramusio) in speaking of the discoveries subsequently 
 made by Verazzano, and of the country of New-France, remarks, tliatol 
 this land it is not certain as yet whether it is joined to the continent of 
 Florida and New-Spain, or whether it is separated into islands, and may 
 thus admit of a passage to the kingdom of Cathay. "Come," he pro- 
 ceeds, " come mi fii scritto gia niolli anni sono, dal Signor Sebastian 
 Gabotto nostro Vinitiano hnomo di grande esperienza et raro nelF arte 
 del navigare, e nella scienza di cosmografia : il quale avea navicato dis* 
 opra di f^iuesta terra della Nuova-Francia a spese del Re Henrico VII. 
 d'lnghilterra e me diciva, come essendo egli andato lungamente alia volts 
 de poiiente e quarta di Maestro dieiro queste Isole poste lungo la delta terra 
 
 I 
 
VERAZZANOS VOYAGE. 
 
 81 
 
 reached by this enterprising seaman, as well as from the ex- 
 pressions employed by Sir Humphrey Gilbert in speaking 
 of the voyage, it appears certain that Cabot had entered the 
 great bay afterward explored by Hudson, and since known 
 by his name.* It is an extraordinary fact, therefore, but it 
 rests upon evidence which it would be difficult to c ntro- 
 vert, that ninety years before the first voyage of Hudson 
 he had been anticipated in his principal discovery by an 
 early navigator, to whose merits the world have done little 
 justice. 
 
 While the Portuguese, the Spaniards, and the English 
 had early entered upon the career .of discovery, the French, 
 a people undoubtedly of the highest genius and enterprise, 
 evinced an unaccountable inactivity upon this great subject, 
 and appeared to view with indifference the brilliant suc- 
 cesses of other nations. At length Francis I., a monarch 
 who was deeply smit with the love of glory, caught the en- 
 thusiasm for maritime discovery, and, eager to cope upon 
 equal terms with his great rival Charles V., fitted out a 
 squadron of four ships, the command of which he intrusted 
 to Giovanni Verazzano, a Florentine navigator of great skill 
 and celebrity. The destination of the armament, however, 
 appears to have embraced the purposes of plunder as well 
 as of discovery ; and in a cruise three of his vessels were 
 80 much damaged in a storm, that they were compelled, for 
 the purpose of refitting, to run into a port in Brittany, from 
 which, impatient of the delay, the admiral, in a single vessel 
 named the Dauphin, set sail with a determination to prose- 
 cute discoveries. He first steered his course for M adeira» 
 
 flni a gradi sessanta sette e mezzo sntto il nostro pt>1o a xi. di Guigno e tro* 
 vandosi il mare aperto e senza impedimento alcuno, pensava fermamentt 
 per quella via di poter passare alia volta del Cataio Orientale, e I'avrebbe 
 fatto, 86 la malignita del padrone e de marineri soUevati non Thavessero 
 fiitto tornare a dietro." This discourse is dated 20th June, 1553. 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 16. It must be recollected that Sir Humphrey 
 Gilbert had the advantage of having examined the charts or Sebastian 
 Cabot, which, he tells us, were then to be seen in the queen's privy 
 gallery at Whitehall. It has also been acutely remarked by a late writer 
 (Memoir of Cabot, p. 29), that Ortelius, who died nine years before Hud- 
 son undertook his first voyage, in the map of America, published In 
 his great geographical work, the "Theatrum Orbis Terrarum," has laid 
 down the form of Hudson's Bay with singular precision. Now we know 
 by the list of authorities cited by Ortelius, that he was in possession of 
 a map of the world by Sebastian Cabot. The source, therefore, fVoin 
 wbich he derived his information is evident. 
 
32 
 
 VERAZZANO. 
 
 \ 
 
 and thence sailed in a westerly direction for twenty-five 
 days, making in that time 500 leagues. A storm now 
 attacked him, in which his little vessel had nearly perished, 
 but he at last weathered the gale, and proceeding onwards 
 for 400 leagues, arrived upon a coast that, according to his 
 own account, had never before been visited.* It is probable 
 that this shore belonged either to North or South Carolina ;t 
 and the appearance of many large fires on the beach con- 
 vinced him that the country was inhabited. Verazzano, 
 however, in vain sought for a port ; and after exploring the 
 coast both to the south and north without success, he was 
 compelled to anchor in the open sea, after which he sent his 
 boat on shore to open an intercourse with the natives. This 
 he effected not without some difficulty ; for as soon as the 
 French landed the savages fled in great trepidation ; yet 
 they soon after stole back, exhibiting signs of much wonder 
 and curiosity. At last being convinced that they had 
 nothing to fear, they completely recovered their confidence, 
 and not only brought provisions to the French, but assisted 
 them in drawing their boat on shore, and carefully and mi- 
 nutely scrutinized every thing belonging to the vessels and 
 the crew. They admired the white skin of the strangers, 
 handled their dress, and exhibited the utmost astonishment 
 and dehght. They themselves were a handsome race of 
 people, their eyes dark and large, their expression bold, open, 
 and cheerful ; their chests were broad, and they combined 
 middle stature and symmetry of limbs with great nimbleness 
 and swiftness of foot. Their colour was tawny, not unlike 
 , the Saracens, and they wore their hair, which was black 
 and thick, tied behind their head in a little tail, and some- 
 times ornamented with a garland of birds' feathers. Their 
 bodies were not disfigured or tattooed in any way, and they 
 Walked about perfectly naked, except that they wore short 
 aprons of furs fastened round their middle by a girdle of 
 woven grass. In the immediate vicinity of the coast the 
 country was sandy, rising into gentle undulations ; as they 
 proceeded it became more elevated, and was covered by 
 noble woods, consisting, not of the usual forest-trees, but 
 
 * Ramusio, Viaggi, vol. iii. p. 420. " Dovi scopsimmo una terra nuova, 
 non piu da gl'antichi ne da modejni vista." 
 f " 8ta questa terra in gradi 34°."— Ramusld, Vol. ill. p. 420. 
 
 k 
 
Bnty-five 
 rm now 
 serished, 
 onwards 
 ng to his 
 probable 
 arolina ;t 
 ach con- 
 3razzano, 
 oring the 
 i, he was 
 e sent his 
 es. This 
 )n as the 
 tion; yet 
 ;h wonder 
 they had 
 onfidence, 
 it assisted 
 ly and mi- 
 essels and 
 strangers, 
 lonishment 
 le race of 
 lold, open, 
 combined 
 limbleness 
 [not unlike 
 as black 
 land some- 
 's. Their 
 and they 
 ore short 
 girdle of 
 coast the 
 ; as they 
 ivered by 
 rees, but 
 
 ^erra nuova, 
 20. 
 
 VERAZZANO. 
 
 33 
 
 of the palm, laurel, cypress, and others then unknown in 
 Europe, which grew to a great height, and dilTused a de- 
 licious perfume that was discerned far out at sea. " The 
 land also," says Verazzano in his letter to Francis I., " is 
 full of many animals, as stags, deer, and hares, which were 
 seen sporting in the forests, and frequenting the banks of 
 pleasant lakes and rivers ; nor were there wanting great 
 plenty and variety of birds of game, fitted to afford delight- 
 ful recreation for the sportsman. The sky was clear, the 
 air wholesome and temperate, the prevalent wind blowing 
 from the west, and the sea calm and placid. In short, a 
 country more full of amenity could not well be imagined."** 
 An excellent author and navigator thinks it probable that 
 the spot where Verazzano first landed was on the coast of 
 Georgia, near the present town of Savannah.f 
 
 From this he proceeded along the shore, which turned to 
 the eastward and appeared thickly inhabited, but so low and 
 open that landing in such a surf was impossible. In this 
 perplexity a young sailor undertook to swim to land and ac- 
 cost the natives ; but when he saw the crowds which 
 thronged the beach he repented of his purpose, and although 
 within a few yards of the landing-place, his courage failed, 
 and he attempted to turn back. At this moment the water 
 only reached his waist ; but, overcome with terror and ex- 
 haustion, he had scarcely strength to cast his presents and 
 trinkets upon the beach, when a high wave cast him stupi- 
 fied and senseless upon the shore. The savages ran imme- 
 diately to his assistance, and carried him to a little distance 
 from the sea, where it was some time before he recovered 
 his recollection ; and great was his terror when he found 
 himself entirely in their power. •StrGtelilng his hands to- 
 wards the ship, he uttered a piercing shriek, to which his 
 friends of the New World replied by raising a loud yell, in- 
 tended, as he afterward found, to encourage him. But, if 
 ♦u:« ^j^g sufficiently alarming, their further proceedings 
 
 this 
 
 proved still more formidable. They carried him to the foot 
 of a hill, turned his face towards the sun, kindled a large 
 fire, and stripped him naked. No doubt was now left in the 
 mind of the unhappy man that they were about to offer him 
 
 * Ramusio, vol. iii, p. 420. 
 
 t Forster's.Discoveries in the North, p. 433. 
 
 I 
 
 Ji 
 
 i 
 
 
asaer 
 
 34 
 
 VERAZZANO. 
 
 it 
 
 
 as a sacrifice to tnc sun ; and his companions on board, who 
 watched the progress of the adventure, unable, from the vio- 
 lence of the sea, to lend him assistance, were of the same 
 opinion. They thought, to use Verazzano's own words, 
 that the natives were going to roast and eat him.* But 
 their fears were soon turned into gratitude and astonish- 
 ment ; for they only dried his clothes, warmed him, and 
 showed hitn every mark of kindness, caressing and patting 
 his white skin ; and on observing that he still trembled and 
 looked suspicious, they assisted him to dress, conducted him 
 to the beach, tenderly embraced him, and pointing to the 
 vessel, removed to a little distance to show that he was at 
 liberty to return to his friends. This he did by swimming 
 to the ship's boat, which had been put out to receive him, 
 followed by the kind gestures of the savages, who gazed 
 after him till they saw him safe among his friends. The 
 spot where Verazzano found this amiable people is conjec- 
 tured by Forster to have been somewhere between New- 
 Jersey and Staten Island. 
 
 From this the Florentine sailed onward, observing the coast 
 trending to the northward, and after a run of fifty leagues 
 came to anchor off a delightful country covered with the finest 
 forests. The trees, although equally luxuriant, did not emit 
 the same perfume as those before seen ; but the region was 
 rich, covered with grass, and thickly peopled, although the 
 natives appeared more timid than the last, and avoided all 
 intercourse. The sailors, however, discovered and seized a 
 family who had concealed themselves in the underwood, 
 consisting of an old woman, a young girl of a tall and hand- 
 some figure, and six children. Tho two younger of the 
 little ones were squatted on the shoulders of the old woman, 
 and another child hung behind her back, while the girl was 
 similarly loaded. On being approached both the females 
 shrieked loudly ; but, having succeeded in pacifying them, 
 the sailors understood by their signs that all the men had 
 escaped to the woods on the appearance of the ships. Much 
 persuasion was now used to induce them to go on board ; 
 but although the elderly lady showed symptoms of acquies- 
 cence, and eagerly ate the food which was offered her, no 
 entreaties could soften the obstinacy and rage of the 
 
 Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 421. 
 
 * ', 
 
VERAZZANO. 
 
 85 
 
 rd, who 
 
 the vio- 
 le same 
 L words, 
 .* But 
 istonish- 
 iim, and 
 I patting 
 ibled and 
 icted him 
 ig to the 
 le was at 
 ,wim_ming 
 eive him, 
 /ho gazed 
 ids. The 
 is conjec- 
 een New- 
 
 ig the coast 
 fty leagues 
 th the finest 
 lid not emit 
 region was 
 though the 
 avoided all 
 nd seized a 
 underwood, 
 I and hand- 
 nger of the 
 old woman, 
 he girl was 
 the females 
 fying them, 
 Le men had 
 lips. Much 
 on board ; 
 of acquies- 
 •ed her, no 
 age of tu6 
 
 younger. She uttered piercing cries, cast the meat indig- 
 nantly on the ground, and rendered the task of dragging 
 her through the thick woods so tedious and distressing, that 
 they were obliged to desist and leave her, only carrying with 
 them a little boy, who could make no resistance.* The 
 people of this country possessed fairer complexions than 
 those whom they had just left, and were clad with large 
 leaves sewed together with threads of wild hemp. Their 
 common food was pulse, but they subsisted also by fishing, and 
 were very expert in catching birds with gins. Their bows 
 were made of hard wood, their arrows of canes headed with 
 fish-bone, and their boats constructed of one large tree hol- 
 lowed by fire, for they appeared to have no instruments of 
 iron or other metal. Wild vines crept up the trunks of the 
 trees, hanging in rich festoons from the branches, and the 
 banks and meadows were covered with roses, lilies, violets, 
 and many sorts of herbs diflerent from those of Europe, 
 yielding a fresh and delightful fragrance. 
 
 Verazzano now proceeded one hundred leagues farther to a 
 sheltered and beautiful bay surrounded by gently rising hills, 
 and discovered a large river, which from its depth seemed navi- 
 gable to a considerable distance. Fearful, however, of any 
 accident, they ascended it in boats ; and the voyage con- 
 ducted them through a country so full of sweetness and 
 attraction that they left it with much regret.f Prosecuting 
 their discoveries fifty leagues eastward, they reached another 
 island of a triangular shape, covered with rich wood, and 
 rising into gentle hills, which reminded them of Rhodes 
 both in its form and general aspect. A contrary wind, how- 
 ever, rendered it impossible to land, and pursuing their 
 course about fifteen leagues farther along the coast, they 
 found a port where there was an excellent anchorage. Here 
 they were soon visited by the natives, who came in a squad- 
 ron of twenty boats, and at first cautiously kept at the dis- 
 tance of fifty paces. Observing, however, the friendly ges- 
 tures of the strangers, they ventured nearer, and when the 
 French threw them bells, mirrors, and other trinkets, they 
 raised a loud and simultaneous shout expressive of joy and 
 security, no longer hesitating to row their boats to the ship's 
 side and come aboard. They are described by Verazzano 
 
 
 I 
 
 M 
 
 I 
 
 * Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 421. 
 
 t Ibid. 
 
I i m i^m " m^ 
 
 
 96 
 
 VERAZZANO. 
 
 'if 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 in his account of the voyage sent to Francis I., as the finest 
 and handsomest race, and the most civilized in their man' 
 ners, of any he had yet met in America. Their colour was 
 fairer than that of the more southern people, and in the 
 symmetry of their forms, and the simplicity and graceful- 
 ness of their attitudes, they almost vied with the antique. 
 They soon became exceedingly friendly and intimate, and 
 conducted the French into the interior of the country, which 
 they found variegated with wood, and more delightful than 
 can be easily described. Adapted for every sort of cultiva- 
 tion, whether of com, vines, or olives, it was interspersed 
 with plains of twenty-five or thirty leagues in length, open 
 and unencumbered with trees, and of such fertility, that 
 whatever fruit might be sown was certain to produce a 
 rich and abundant return. They afterward entered the 
 woods, which were of great size, and so thick that a large 
 army might have been concealed in them. The trees con- 
 sisted of oaks and cypresses, besides other species unknown 
 to Europe. They fonnd also apples, parsley, plums, and 
 filberts, and many other kinds of fruit diflferent from those 
 of Italy. They saw likewise many animals, such as harts, 
 roes, wolves, and stags, which the natives caught with 
 snares, and destroyed with bows and arrows, their principal 
 weapons of offence. The arrows were made with great 
 neatness, and at the point instead of iron they inserted flints, 
 jaspers, hard marble, and other kinds of cut stones. These 
 they also made use of in felling trees, and in excavating 
 their boats, which with great skill were made of a single 
 trunk, yet large enough to hold ten or twelve men commo- 
 diously. Their oars were short and broad at the extremity, 
 which they plied in the sea without any accident happening, 
 trusting solely to their strength of arm and skilful manage- 
 ment, and seeming able to go at almost any rate they 
 pleased. Their houses were constructed in a circular shape, 
 ten or twelve paces in circuit, built of boards, and separated 
 from each other without any attention paid to architectural 
 arrangement, covered with tiles made of clay, of excellent 
 workmanship, and effectually protected from the wind and 
 rain.* On one subject alone they showed suspicion, being 
 extremely jealous of the least intercourse between th« 
 
 * Ramusio, vol. tii. p. 432. 
 
» 
 
 VERAZZANO. 
 
 3T 
 
 ,eiT maft- 
 oloutwaa 
 ^d in the 
 araceful- 
 5 "antique. 
 
 mate, an J 
 jtTy, which 
 
 rbtful than 
 'of cultiva- 
 nterspetsed 
 jngth, open 
 5Ttility, that 
 •o produce a 
 entered the 
 : that a large 
 
 tie trees con- 
 :ies unknown 
 
 , plums, and 
 i Yrom those ■ 
 suchashart^ | 
 f caught Wi^ I 
 their principal ,v 
 de with great 
 li„,ertedmnU, 
 stones. These 
 in excavating 
 ,de of a single 
 e men coinmo- 
 t the extremity, 
 
 Um manage- 
 ' any rate they 
 , circular shape, 
 . and separated 
 'to architectural 
 Hay, of excellent 
 P'the wind and 
 'Suspicion, being 
 Le between th« 
 
 French and their women. These they would on no per- 
 suasion allo'v to enter the ship ; and on one occasion, while 
 the iiinjT came on board, and spent some hourti in curiously 
 examining every part of the vessel, his royal consort was 
 left with her female attendants in a boat at some distance, 
 strictly watched and guarded.* 
 
 The French now bade adieu to this kind people, and pur- 
 sued their discoveries for one hundred and fifty leagues, ex- 
 ploring a coast which extended first towards the east and 
 afterward to the north. The country still presenter] an 
 agreeable and inviting aspect, although the climate became 
 colder, and the regions along which they passed more hilly. 
 A progress of other fifty leagues brought them to a more 
 mountainous district than any yet seen, covered with dark 
 and dense forests, and possessed by a people whose habits 
 and temper seemed to partake of the severer nature of their 
 country. On attempting to open an intercourse, Verazzano 
 found them as fierce and sullen as those with whom he had 
 lately dealt were agreeable and generous. Twenty-five of 
 the crew who landed were received with a shower of 
 arrows ; and although the exhibition of articles of barter 
 overcame their scruples, and tempted them to agree to an 
 interchange of commodities, the manner in which this was 
 effected evinced a striking mixture of avidity and suspicion. 
 They came down to the beach, choosing the spot where the 
 surf was breaking most violently, and insisted that the 
 French boat should remain on the other side ; a rope was 
 then passed from it to the shore, and the different articles 
 were swung along it. Strings of beads, toys, or mirrors 
 they utterly despised ; but eagerly received knives, fishing- 
 hooks, swords, saws, or any thing in the shape of cutting- 
 metal to be used in war or in the chase, though such was 
 their savage temper, that during the process of exchange 
 they expressed their aversion to the strangers by uncouth 
 gestures of contempt and derision. It seems probable that 
 the country now for the first time visited by Europeans 
 was the present state of Maine ; as we are told by Ve- 
 razzano, that a further rim of fifty leagues along the 
 
 * This country, according to Verazzano, was situated in i\^° of lati- 
 tude (Ramusio, vol. iit. p. 422), which, if correct, would |>oint it out as 
 the preaieat flourishii]]; state of Massacbusette. 
 
 D 
 
 
 j 
 
 
7P^ 
 
 i ■■ % 
 
 88 
 
 VERAZZANO. 
 
 coast brought him to a cluster of thirty islanda separated by 
 narrow channels, — a description which points out, in precise 
 terms, the Bay of Penobscot.* 
 
 From this point he pursued his indefatigable course for one 
 hundred and fifty leagues farther, till he reached the land 
 already discovered, as he says, by the Britons in the lati- 
 tude of 60°, which is evidently Newfoundland. Here his 
 provisions began to fail, and thinking it prudent to sail 
 for Franco, he reached honje in safety in the month of 
 July, 1524. 
 
 Verazzano had thus completed the survey of a line of 
 coast extending for seven hundred leagues, and embracing 
 the whole of Ihe United States, along with a large portion 
 of British America. It was undoubtedly an enterprise of 
 great magnitude and splendour, and deserves to be carefully 
 recorded, not only as comprehending one of the widest 
 ranges of early discovery, but as making us for the first time 
 acquainted with that noble country whose history is so im- 
 portant, and whose destinies, even after a progress un- 
 rivalled in rapidity, appear at this moment only in their in- 
 fancy. The Florentine gave to the whole region which he 
 had discovered the name of New-France ; he then laid be- 
 fore the king a plan for completing his survey of the coast, 
 penetrating into the interior, and establishing a colony ; and 
 he appears to have met with encouragement from Francis I., 
 who embraced his proposals for colonization. From this 
 moment, however, his history is involved in obscurity. 
 Hakluyt afhrms that he performed three voyages to North 
 America, and gave a map of the coast to Henry VHI. The 
 biographer of Cabot asserts, that he was the " Piedmontese 
 pilot" who was slain on the coast of America in 1527,t not 
 aware that Verazzano was a Florentine and alive in 1537 ; 
 and Ramusio could not ascertain the particulars of his last 
 expedition, or even discover in what year it took place. All 
 that is certainly known is, that it proved fatal to this great 
 navigator. Having landed incautiously upon the American 
 coast, he and his party were surrounded and cut to pieces 
 
 * Murray's North America, vol. i. p. 79, Tlie veracity of the Floren- 
 tine navigator, in his description of the fF^rocious habits of the natives, 
 Is strikingly corrotiorated by the determined and rancorous hostility 
 evinced afterward by the Indians of this district in opposing every 
 att^pt at settleinfent^ • ^ ^ . . 
 
 t nefflMr of daboi, p. 278. 
 
 i 
 
 
 m 
 
cartier; 
 
 89 
 
 by the savages ; after which they barbarously devoured them 
 in the sight of their companions.* 
 
 The death of Verazzano appears to have thrown a damp 
 over the further prosecution of discovery by the court of 
 France ; but at length, after an interval often years, Jacques 
 Cartier, an enterprising and able mariner of St. Malo, was 
 chosen by the Sieur de Melleraye, vice-admiral of France, 
 to conduct a voyage to Newfoundland, which, since its dis- 
 covery by Cabot, had been seldom visited, and was impcr* 
 fectly known. Cartier departed from St. Malo on the 20th 
 of April, 1534, with two ships, each of 60 tons burden, and 
 having on board a well-appointed crew of sixty-one men.f 
 The voyage appears to have been limited to a survey of the 
 northern coast of Newfoundland, of which he gives a 
 minute description, dwelling particularly on the zoological 
 features of the country. He found the land in most parts 
 extremely wild and barren, " insomuch that he did not 
 see a cartload of good earth ; and the inhabitants were of 
 stout make, but wild and unruly." They wore their hair 
 tied on the top like a bunch of hay, fixed with a wooden 
 bodkin, and ornamented with birds' feathers. Like their 
 companions whom Cabot had described, they were clothed 
 
 * Such is the account of Ramusio in his Discourse upon New-France, 
 vol. iii. p. 417. But Cardenas, in a worlt entitled " Ensajo Cronolosico 
 para la Historia de la Floridas" (p. 8), has comnfiitted an error similar to 
 that of the writer of Cabot's life. He believes that Verazzano was the 
 same as Juan the Florentine, a pirate in the service of France, who was 
 taken by the Spaniards in 1524, and hnnged. The evidence v^hich over- 
 turns the theories of both these authors is to be found in a letter of 
 Aanihal Caro. rjuoted byTiraboschi, Sroriadella Letteramra Ttal., vol., vii. 
 part i. p. -Jei, 262, from which it appears that Verazzano was alive in 
 1537. Lettere Famiiiari del. Comm, Annibal Caro, vol, i. p. 11. In his 
 great worii, Tirahoschi has collected all that is known regarding the life 
 of this eminent discoverer; but this ah is little or nothing. He waa 
 born about the year 1485 ; his father was Pierandrea Verazzano, a noble 
 Florentine, his mother Fiametta Capelli. Of his youth, and for what 
 reasons he entered into the service of Francis I., nothing is known. Tho 
 only published work of Verazzano is the narrative in Ramusio, addressed 
 to Francis I., written with much simplicity and elegance. But in the 
 Slrozzi Library at Florence is preserved a manuscript, in which he is said 
 to give, with great minutenes.'^, a description cff all the countries which 
 he had visited during his voyage, and from which, says Tirahoschi, we 
 derive the Intelligence that he had formed the design of attempting a 
 passage through the.se seas to the Ea.st Indies. It is much to be desired 
 that some Italian scholar would favour the world witb the publicatioa 
 of this MS. of Verazzano. 
 
 t Ramusio, vol. iii, p. 435. 
 
CARTIER. 
 
 M 
 
 :! 
 
 
 in beasts* skins, and ornamented their bodies by painting 
 them with roan-coIourR. They paddled about in boats made 
 of the bark of birch-trees, in which they carried on a con- 
 stant trade of fishing, and caught great numbers of seals. 
 A Aer having almost circumnavigated Newfoundland, Oartier 
 stood in towards the continent, and anchored in a bav ^vhich, 
 from the extreme heat, was denominated Baye du Uhnleur. 
 The description of the inhabitants of this spot is striking 
 and interesting. " Taking our way," says he, " along the 
 coast, we came in sight of the savages, who stood on the 
 borders of a lake in the j^ grounds, where they had lighted 
 their fires, which raised a |[reat smoke. We went towards 
 them, and found that rn arm of the sea ran into the lake, 
 into which we pushec- with our boats. Upon this the 
 savages approached in one of their little barks, bringing 
 along with them pieces of roasted seals, which th v placed 
 upon wooden boards, and afterward retired, making signs 
 that this was intended as a present for us. We immediately 
 put two men ashore, with hatchets, knives, garlands for the 
 head, and such-like wiires. On seeing these articles they 
 appeared much delighted, and crowded to the bank where 
 we were, paddling their barks, and bringing skins and 
 other articles, which they meant to exchange for our mer- 
 chandise. Their number, including men, women, and 
 children, was upwards of three hundred. Some <of the 
 women, who would not venture nearer, stood up to the 
 knees in water, singing and dancing. Others, who had 
 passed over, came to us with great familiarity, rubbing 
 our arms with their hands, which they afterward lifted up 
 to heaven, singing all the while and making signs of joy ; 
 such at last was their friendliness and security, that they 
 bartered away every thing they had, and stood beside us 
 quite naked ; for they scrupled not to give us all that was 
 on them, and indeed their whole wardrobe was not much to 
 speak of. It was evident that this people might be wiliiout 
 difficulty converted to our faith. They migrate from place 
 to place, and subsist.themselves by fishing. Their country 
 is warmer than Spain, and as beautiful as can be imagined, — 
 level, and covered even in the smallest spots with trees, and 
 this although the soil is sandy. It is full also of wild corn, 
 virhich hath an ear similar to rye. We saw many beautiful 
 meadows full of rich grass, and lakes where there were 
 
 "-F- 
 
CARTIER*8 SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 41 
 
 plenty of salmon. The sfivages called a hatchet cochi, 
 and a knife bacon."* All the navigators who had hitherto 
 visited Newfoundland, on reaching its northernmost point, 
 appear to have sailed across the Straits of Belleisle to Cape 
 Charles, upon the coast of Labrador ; but the course of 
 C.irtier led him through the straits into the great Gulf of St. 
 Ijawrence, now for the fust time visited by any European. 
 His predecessor, Verazzano, after reaching the shore of the 
 Bay of Fundy, had probably sailed along the coast of Nova 
 Scotia until he reached Cape Breton. Cartier, on the con- 
 trary, saw before him a wide and extensive field of discovery 
 to the west, which he pursued for some time, directing his 
 course along the coast of the Bay of St. Lawrence ; but, as 
 the season was far advanced, and the weather became pre- 
 carious, he determined to reserve a more complete exami- 
 nation of this unknown country for a second voyage, and 
 returned safely to France, coming to anchor in the port of 
 St. Malo upon the 5th of September, 1534.+ 
 
 Having been received with favour and distinction. Car- 
 tier, after a short interval, embarked upon a second voy- 
 age. His squadron consisted of three ships, — the Great 
 Hermina, of which Cartier himself was master, being a 
 vessel of about 120 tons ; the Little Hermina of 60 tons, 
 and the Hermirillon of 40 tons burden. The crews sol- 
 emnly prepared themselves for their voyage by confession 
 and the reception of the sacrament ; after which they en- 
 tered in a body into the choir of the cathedral, and stood 
 before the bishop, who was clothed in his canonicals, and 
 devoutly gave them his benediction. Having fulfilled these 
 rites, the fleet weighed anchor on the 15th of May, 1535, 
 and the admiral steered direct for Newfoundland. His 
 ships, however, were soon after separated in a storm, and 
 did not again join company till the 26th of June ; after 
 which they proceeded to explore the large gulf which he 
 had already entered. " It was," to use the words of the 
 navigator himself, "a very fair gulf, full of islands, pass- 
 ages, and entrances to what winds soever you pleased to 
 bend, having a great island like a cape of land stretching 
 somewhat farther forth than the others." This island is evi- 
 dently that named by the English Anticosti, being merely a 
 
 * Ramusio, yol. UL *". 438. 
 
 D2 
 
 t ibid. p. 440. 
 
43 
 
 CARTIRR*8 SECOND VOTAOE. 
 
 > 
 
 m ^ 
 
 1: i 
 
 corruption of Natiscotec, the appellation at this day given 
 it by the natives. To the channel between it and the oppo- 
 site coast of Labrador Cartier gave the name of St. Law- 
 rence, which has since been extended to the whole gulf. 
 
 On reaching the eastern point of the island of Anticosti, 
 the French, who had along with them two of the natives of 
 the country, whom they had induced in their former voyage 
 to accompany them to France, requested their advice as to 
 their farther progress. The savages stated, that the gulf in 
 which they now lay gradually contracted its dimensions till 
 it terminated in the mouth of a mighty river named Hoche- 
 laga, flowing from a vast distance in the interior of a great 
 continent. That two days' sail above Anticosti would 
 bring them to the kingdom of Saguenay, beyond which, 
 along the bank of the same river, was a populous territory, 
 situated at its highest known point, where the stream was 
 only navigable by small boats. Having received this infor- 
 mation, Cartier sailed onwards, exploring both sides of the 
 river, and opening a communication with the inhabitants 
 by means of the natives whom he carried along with him. 
 The good eifects of this arrangement were soon seen ; for 
 at first they fled in great alarm upon the approach of any 
 of the ships* crews ; but on hearing the interpreters cry 
 out that they were Taignoagny and Domagaia, — names 
 which seemed to inspire immediate ideas of friendliness and 
 confidence, — they suddenly turned back ; after which they 
 began to dance and rejoice, running away with great speed, 
 and soon returning with eels, fishes, grain, and musk- 
 melons, which they cast into the boats, with gestures ex- 
 pressive of much kindness and courtesy.* This soon led 
 to a more intimate and interesting intercourse ; and on the 
 following day the lord of the country, who was named 
 Donnaconna, made a formal visit to the admiral's ship, ac- 
 companied by twelve boats, in which were a great multitude 
 of his subjects. On approaching the vessel he ordered ten 
 of these boats to ship their paddles and remain stationary, 
 while he himself, with the other two boats, and attended by 
 a suite of sixteen of his subjects, advanced over-against 
 the smallest of the French ships, and standing up, com- 
 menced a long oration, throwing his body into a variety of 
 
 • RluntiSlo, viol. Ui. 11^441. 
 
 "^. 
 
CARTIER S SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 4t 
 
 ™y given 
 lie oppo- 
 St. Law- 
 ;ulf. 
 
 inticosti, 
 atives of 
 r voyage 
 ice as to 
 le gulf in 
 isions lill 
 J Hoche- 
 )f a great 
 ill would 
 id which, 
 territorjs 
 ream was 
 [his infor- 
 les of the 
 ihabitants 
 with him. 
 seen ; for 
 ich of any 
 peters cry 
 J — names 
 iness and 
 lich they 
 eat speed, 
 nd musk- 
 stures ex- 
 soon led 
 nd on the 
 s named 
 ship, «c- 
 multilude 
 dered ten 
 tationary, 
 tended by 
 r- against 
 up, com- 
 ariety of 
 
 ■trange and uncouth postures, which were afterward dis- 
 covered to he signs indicating gladness and hecurity. Don- 
 naconna now came aboard the admiral's ship, and an en- 
 thusiastic interview took place between him and the two 
 savages who had been in France.* They recounted with 
 much gesticulation the extraordinary things which they had 
 seen in that country, dwelling on the kind entertainment 
 they had experienced, and after many expressive looks of 
 wonder and gratitude, the king entreated the admiral to 
 stretch out his arm, which he kissed with devotion, laying 
 it fondly upon his neck, and showing, by gestures which 
 could not be mistaken, that he wished to make much of 
 him. Cartier, anxious to evinco an equal confidence, en- 
 tered Donnaconna's boat, carrying with him a collation of 
 bread and wine, with which the monarch was much pleased, 
 and the French, returning to their ships, ascended the river 
 ten leagues, till they arrived at a village where this friendly 
 potentate usually resided, and which was named Stadacona. 
 " It was," according to the original account of Cartier, ** as 
 goodly a plot of ground as possibly might be seen, very 
 fruitful, and covered with noble trees similar to those of 
 France, such as oaks, elms, ashes, walnut-trees, maple- 
 trees, citrons, vines, and white thorns which brought forth 
 fruit like damsons ; and beneath these woods grew as gooU 
 hemp as any in France, without its being either planted or 
 cultivated by man's labour."t 
 
 From this time the intercourse between the French and 
 Donnaconna continued with every expression of friendli- 
 ness ; but on hearing that the admiral had determined to 
 go to Hochelaga, a sudden jealousy appeared to seize him, 
 lest he and his people should be deprived of the advantages 
 of an uninterrupted communication with the white strangers, 
 and every possible device was put in execution to deter 
 them from their purpose. One of these stratagems was so 
 ludicrous that we may be permitted to give Gartier's ac- 
 count of it in an abridgment of the quaint translation of 
 Hakluyt : *' The next day, being the 18th of September, 
 these men still endeavoured to seek all means possible to 
 hinder us from going to Hochelaga, and for this purpose 
 
 * Ramuaio, vol. iii. p. 443. 
 t Hakluyt, vol. Ui. p. 216. 
 
 SecoQda Relatione di Jacques Cartier. 
 
 •i-Si 
 
 .lAkkir«..-ik^ 
 

 
 44 
 
 CARTIER S SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 ii .! 
 
 I*i 
 
 devised a pretty guile. They went and dressed three men 
 like devils, heing wrapped in dogs' skins, white and black, 
 with their faces besmeared as black as a coal, and horns 
 upon their heads more than a yard long." These figures 
 they caused to be secretly put into one of the boats, which 
 they concealed within a winding of the wooded bay, waiting 
 patiently for the tide. When the proper moment had ar- 
 rived, a multitude of the boats, crowded with natives and 
 conducted by Taignaogny, suddenly emerged from the 
 creek ; on a signal given, the boat in which were the coun- 
 terfeit devils came rushing out of its concealment, and the 
 middlemost devil, standing up, made a long oration, addressed 
 to the French ships, of which of course every syllable was 
 ■^ unintelligible. " Then," to resume the words of Hakluyt, 
 "did King Donnaconna with all his people pursue them, 
 and lay hold on the boat and devils, who, so soon as the 
 men were come to them, fell prostrate, as if they had been 
 dead, upon which they were taken up and carried into the 
 wood, being but a stonecast off, at which time every one of 
 the savages withdrew himself into the wood, and when 
 there began to make a long discourse, so loud that it was 
 easy for the French to hear them even in their ships. 
 When this oration or debate, which lasted -for half an hour, 
 was ended, Cartier and his crew espied Taignaogny and 
 Domagaia coming towards them, holding their hands joined 
 together, carrying their hats under their upper garment, 
 showing a great admiration, and looking up to heaven. 
 Upon this the captain, hearing them, and seeing their ges- 
 tures and ceremonies, asked them what they ailed, and 
 what was happened or chanced anew 1 to which they an- 
 swered that there were very ill tidings befallen, saying in 
 their broken French, ' Nenni est il bon,' that is to say, it 
 was not good. Our captain asked them again what it was, 
 and then they answered that their god Cudraigny had 
 spoken in Hochelaga, and that he had sent those three 
 devils to show unto them that there was so much ice and 
 snow in that country that whosoever went there should 
 die ; which words when the French heard they laughed 
 and mocked them, sayinn- that their god Cudraigny was but 
 a fool and a noddie, for he knew not what he said or did. 
 They bade them also carry their compliiuentg to his mes- 
 
 v'- 
 
m 
 
 i men 
 
 black, ■* 
 horns 
 igures 
 which 
 raiting 
 lad ar- 
 es and 
 m the 
 I coun- 
 nd the 
 Iressed 
 )le was 
 akluyt, 
 ! them, 
 i as the 
 id been 
 nto the 
 one of 
 (1 when 
 ,t it was 
 r ships, 
 in hour, 
 ny and 
 s joined 
 arment, 
 heaven, 
 ir ges- 
 id, and 
 jhey an- 
 ying in 
 say, it 
 it was, 
 iny had 
 ,e three 
 ,ce and 
 should 
 aughed 
 as but 
 or did. 
 ,s mes- 
 
 i 
 
 cartier's second voyage. 
 
 45 
 
 sengers, and inform them that the God whom they served 
 would defend them from all cold if they would only believe 
 in him."* 
 
 Having thus failed in the object intended to he gained by 
 this extraordinary masquerade, the savages offered no 
 further opposition, and the French proceeded in their pin- 
 nace and two boats up the river St. Lawrence towards 
 Hochelaga. They found the country on both sides ex- 
 tremely rich and beautifully varied, covered with fine wood, 
 and abounding in vines, though the grapes, from want of 
 cultivation, were neither so large nor so sweet as those of 
 France. The prevalent trees were the same as in Europe, 
 — oaks, elms, walnut, cedar, fir, ash, box, and willow ; and 
 the natives on each side of the river, who appeared to ex- 
 ercise principally the trade of fishermen, entered into an 
 intercourse with the strangers as readily and kindly as if 
 they had been their own countrymen. One of the lords 
 of the country did not scruple after a short acquaintance 
 to make a present to Cartier of two of his children ; one 
 of whom, a little girl of seven or eight years old, he carried 
 away with him, while he returned the other, a boy, who 
 was considered too young to travel. They saw great 
 variety of birds, almost all of which were the same as those 
 of Europe. Cranes, swans, geese, ducks, pheasants, par- 
 tridges, thrushes, blackbirds, turtles, finches, redbreasts, 
 nightingales, and sparrows of divers kinds were observed, 
 besides many other birds. 
 
 By this time the river had become narrow, and in some 
 places dangerous in its navigation, owing to the rapids ; and 
 the French, who had still three days' sailing before them, 
 lefl their pinnace and took to their boats, in which, after a 
 prosperous passage, they reached the city of Hochelaga. It 
 consisted of about fifty houses, built in the midst of large 
 and fair curn-fields near a great mountain, which the French 
 called Mont Royale, corrupted by time into Montreal, which 
 name the place still retains ; while the original American 
 designation of Hochelaga has been long since forgotten. 
 The city, according to Cartier's description, was round, 
 compassed about with timber, and with three courses of ram- 
 parts, one within another, framed like a sharp spire, but laid 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 218 ; and Ramu8io,vol. Ui.p. 444. 
 
 '-* 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 I' 
 
46 
 
 CARTIER'S SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 across aboye. The enclosure which surrounded the town 
 was in height about two roods, having but one gate, which 
 was shut with piles, stakes, and bars. Over it, and also in 
 various parts of the wall, were places to run along, and lad- 
 ders to get up, with magazines or heaps of stones for its de- 
 fence. The houses were entirely of wood, with roofs of 
 bark very artificially joined together. Each house had a 
 court in the midst of it, and consisted of many rooms, while 
 the family lighted their fire in the centre of the court, and 
 during the day all lived in common ; at night the husbands, 
 wives, and children retired to their several chambers. At 
 the top of the house were gamers where they kept their 
 corn, which was something like the millet of Brazil, and 
 called by them carracony. They had alpo stores of pease 
 and beans, with musk-melons and great cucumbers. Many 
 large butts were observed in their houses, in which they 
 preserved their dried fish ; but this, as well as all their other 
 victuals, they dressed and ate without salt. They slept 
 upon beds of bark spread on the ground, with coverings of 
 skins similar to those of which their clothes were made.* 
 
 The reception of the French by the inhabitants of Hoche- 
 laga was in a high degree friendly ; and indeed such was 
 the extent of their credulity and admiration, that they con- 
 sidered the strangers as possessed of miraculous power, and 
 their commander a divine person. This was shown by their 
 bringing their king, Agonhanna, an infirm paralytic about 
 fifty years of age, to be touched, and, as they trusted, cured 
 by the admiral, earnestly importuning him by expressive 
 gestures to rub his arms and legs ; after which the savage 
 monarch took the wreath or crown which he wore upon his 
 head and gave it to Cartier. Soon after this they brought 
 with them all the diseased and aged folks whom they could 
 collect, and besought him to heal them ; on which occasion 
 his conduct appears to have been that of a man of sincere 
 piety. He neither arrogated to himself miraculous powers, 
 nor did he altogether refuse their earnest request ; but read, 
 from the Gospel of St. John, the passion of our Saviour, and 
 praying that the Lord would be pleased to open the hearts 
 of these forlorn pagans, and teach them to know the truth, 
 he laid bis hands upon them, and making the sign of the 
 
 * Bamuaio, toI. iii. p. 445 ; and Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 220, 2S1. 
 
 U U 
 
 i*.> 
 
cartier's second voyage. 
 
 it 
 
 i town . 
 which 
 also in 
 nd lad- 
 its de- 
 oofs of 
 I had a 
 ?, while 
 art, and 
 sbands, 
 rs. At 
 pt their 
 izil, and 
 )f pease 
 Many 
 ich they 
 eir other 
 ,ey slept 
 ?rings of 
 Tiade.* 
 ,f Hoche- 
 such was 
 they con- 
 )wer, and 
 1 by their 
 tic about 
 ed, cured 
 pressivft 
 le savage 
 upon his 
 brought 
 ley could 
 occasion 
 sincere 
 powers, 
 jut read, 
 our, and 
 e hearts 
 le truth, 
 tn of the 
 
 cross, left the issue of their being healed or not in the hand 
 of their Creator.* 
 
 On inquiring into their religious tenets, he found that 
 they were buried in the deepest ignorance and superstition, 
 unacquainted with the existence of the only true God, and 
 substituting in his place a capricious and horrid being of 
 their own imaginations, named Ctidraigny. They affirmed 
 that he often spoke to them, and told them what kind of 
 weather they were to have ; but, if angry, would punish 
 them by throwing dust in their eyes. They had a strange 
 and confused idea regarding the immortality of the soul, be- 
 lieving that after death they went to the stars, and descended 
 like these bright sparks by degrees to the horizon, where 
 they wandered about in delicious green fields, which were 
 full of the most precious trees, and profusely so^n with 
 fruits and flowers. Cartier explained as well as he could 
 the folly of such a creed, persuaded them that Cudraigny 
 was no god but a devil, and at his departure promised to re- 
 turn af^u; , and bring some good and holy men, who would 
 instruct t j- in the knowledge of the true and only God, 
 and bap •■ lem in the name of his Son, with which they 
 declared ttiemselves well pleased. t " There groweth here," 
 says Cartier, " a certain kind of herb, of which during the 
 summer they collect a great quantity for winter consump- 
 tion, esteeming it much, and only permitting men to use it 
 in the followinij manner : It is first dried in the sun : after 
 which they wear it about their necks, wrapped \n a little 
 skin made in the shape of a bag, along with a hollow piece 
 of stone or of wood formed like a pipe ; after this they 
 bruise it into a powder, which is put into one of the ends of 
 the said cornet or pipe, and laying a coal of fire upon it at 
 the other end, they suck so long that they fill their bodies 
 full of smoke till it comes out of their mouth and nostrils, 
 even as out of the tunnel of a chimney. They say that this 
 keeps them warm and in health, and never go without some 
 of it about them." It is not impossible that the reader, 
 perplexed by this laboriously minute description, may have 
 failed to recognise in it the first acquaintance made by the 
 French with the salubrious and far-famed plant of tobacco.t 
 
 Not long after this the ships' crews were seized with t 
 
 M: 
 
 i 
 
 ^A 
 
 381. 
 
 HAmusfo, vol. iii. p. 448. 
 
 t r&ui. p. 449. 
 
 t Ibid. 
 
48 
 
 CARTIER^S SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 f'i 
 
 i 
 
 loathsome and dreadful disease, caught, as they supposedi 
 from the natives, which carried off twenty-five men, re- 
 ducing the survivors lo a state of pitiabl^i weakness and 
 suffering. The malady was then new to Europeans ; but 
 the symptoms detailed by Cartier, — swollen legs, extreme 
 debility, putrified gums, and discoloration of the skin and 
 blood, — leave no doubt that this " strange, unknown," and 
 cruel pestilence was the scurvy, since so fatally familiar to 
 the European mariner. Providentially, however, they dis- 
 covered from the savages a cure in the decoction of the 
 leaves and bark of a species of tree called in their language 
 hannida, and since well known as the North American 
 white pine. " This medicine," says Cartier, " worked so 
 well, that if all the physicians of Montpellier and Louvain 
 had been there, with all the drugs of Alexandria, they would 
 not have done so much in one year as that tree did in six 
 days."* 
 
 The French began now to make preparations for their de- 
 parture ; but a dishonourable plot was first carried into exe- 
 cution, by which they succeeded in seizing Donnaconna, 
 whose usefulness and liberality to them during their resi- 
 dence in Canada merited a more generous return. The 
 monarch, however, with the exception of a slight personal 
 restraint to prevent escape, was treated with kindness, and 
 soon became reconciled to his journey to Europe, although 
 his subjects, inconsolable for his loss, came nightly howling 
 like wolves about the ships, till assured he was in safety. 
 Along with Donnaconna were secured Taignaogny and 
 Domagaia, who had already been in France ; and, after a 
 prosperous voyage, the French ships arrived at St. Malo on 
 the 6th July, 1536 t It might have been expected that, after 
 a discovery of such magnitude and importance, immediate 
 measures would have been adopted to appropriate Hnd colo- 
 nize this fertile, populous, and extensive country. This 
 seemed the more likely, as the arrival of Cartier and the in- 
 troduction of the Indian king at court created an extraordi- 
 nary sensation ; yet notwithstanding the manifest advan- 
 tages, both commercial and political, likely to result from a 
 settlement in Canada, the weak and shallow prejudice which 
 at this time prevailed in most of the nations qf Europe, that 
 no countries were valuable except such as produced gold and 
 
 * Ramasio, vol. iil. p. 451. 
 
 t Ibid. p. 453. 
 
ROBERVAL. 
 
 49 
 
 apposed^ 
 men, re- 
 ness and 
 [ins ; but 
 extreme 
 skin and 
 wn," and 
 imiliar to 
 they dis- 
 m of the 
 hinguage 
 American 
 vGrked so 
 I Louvain 
 hey would 
 Uid in six 
 
 )T their de- 
 1 into exe- 
 innaconna, 
 their resi- 
 urn. The 
 it personal 
 dness, and 
 , although 
 y howling 
 in safety, 
 aogny and 
 nd, after a 
 t. Malo on 
 that, after 
 immediate 
 e and colo- 
 try. This 
 nd the in- 
 extraordi- 
 est advan- 
 jult Irom a 
 (lice which 
 HuTope, that 
 id gold and 
 
 p. 453. 
 
 silver, threw a damp over the project, and for nearly four 
 years the French monarch would listen to no proposals for 
 the establishment of a colony. 
 
 Private adventure at length came forward to accomplish 
 that which had been neglected by royal munificence, and the 
 Sieur de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy, requested per- 
 mission of Francis I. to pursue the discovery, and attempt 
 to form a settlement in the country. This the king readily 
 granted ; and as Roberval was opulent, the preparations 
 were made on a great scale. He was created by Francis, on 
 the 15th January, 1540, Lord of Norimbega, Lieutenant- 
 general and Viceroy in Canada, Hochelaga, Saguenay, 
 Newfoundland, Belleisle, Carpon, Labrador, the Great Bay, 
 and Baccalaos, — empty and ridiculous titles, which, if mer- 
 ited by any one, ought to have been conferred upon Cartier. 
 This eminent navigator, however, was only permitted to ac- 
 cept a subordinate command ; and as Roberval, who wished 
 to appear with splendour in his new dominions, was detained 
 in fitting out two vessels which were his own property. Car- 
 tier was ordered to sail before him with the five ships already 
 prepared. He accordingly did so ; but Donnaconna, the 
 Canadian king, had died in France, and the savages, justly 
 incensed at the breach of faivh by which they lost their sove- 
 reign, received the French with an altered countenance, de- 
 vising conspiracies against them that soon led to acts of 
 open hostility. The French now built for their defence, 
 near the present site of Quebec, a fort, which they named 
 Chfirlesbourg, being the first European settlement formed in 
 that part of America. After a long interval Roberval arrived 
 at Newfoundland ; but a jealousy had broken out between 
 him and Cartier, who took the first opportunity during the 
 night to part from his principal, and return with his squadron 
 to France. This of course gave a death-blow to the whole 
 undertaking, for Roberval was nothing without Cartier; 
 and, after some unsuccessful attempts to discover a passage 
 to the East Indies, he abandoned the enterprise, and returned 
 to his native country. The passion for adventure, however, 
 again seized him in 1549, and he and his brother, one of 
 the bravest men of his time, set sail on a voyage of discov- 
 ery ; but they shared the fate of Verazzano and the Cor- 
 terealsi bein^r never again heard of. These disasters effect* 
 
 E 
 
 H 
 
 I ' 1 
 
 I 
 
mfsm 
 
 I 
 
 80 
 
 CORTES. 
 
 ually checked the enthusiasm of France^ while in England, 
 the country to whose enterprise we have seen Europe in- 
 debted for her first acquaintance with the American conti- 
 nent, the spirit of maritime discovery appeared for some 
 years almost totally extinct. 
 
 The plan of this historical disquisition now leads us to 
 the examination of some remarkable enterprises of the 
 Spaniards for the extension of their immense dominions in 
 the New World, along the more northern coasts of America. 
 The bold and comprehensive mind of Cortes, the con- 
 
 
 V!i 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
DISCOVERY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 51 
 
 England, 
 irope in- 
 cin conti- 
 for some 
 
 ds us to 
 3 of the 
 inions in 
 America, 
 the con- 
 
 queror of Mexico, not content with the acquisition of that 
 noble empire, formed the most extensive projects of dis- 
 covery. Alarmed at the attempts of the English to dis- 
 cover a northern passage to China and Cathay, he resolved 
 to make a careful survey of the whole coast, extending 
 from the river Panuco in Mexico to Florida, and thence 
 northwards to the Baccalaos, for the purpose of ascertaining 
 whether there might not exist iu that quarter a communi- 
 cation with the Sopth S^ At the same time a squadron 
 in the Pacific was sjui . ig the western co i "America, 
 and by these simuiianeoua researches he truotcd to find a 
 strait aftbnling a far shorter and easier route to India and 
 the Moluccas, and connecting together the vast dominions 
 of the Spanish crown.* Charles V., to whom these pro- 
 posals were presented, although willing to encourage every 
 scheme for the extension of his power, ungenerously threw 
 upon their author the whole expense of the undertaking; 
 in consequence of which, the idea of the voyage for the 
 discovery of a north-west passage was abandoned, and the 
 magnificent designs for the conquest of many great and 
 opulent kingdoms sank at last into the equipment of two 
 brigantines on the coast of the South Sea, the command of 
 which was intrusted to Diego de Hurtado. This expedition 
 ended calamitously in a mutiny of one of the crews, who 
 brought back their ship to Xalisco : the fate of Hurtado 
 was still more unfortunate, for, although he continued his 
 voyage, neither he nor any of his crew were ever more 
 heard of. A second expedition, intrusted by (^ortes to two 
 Spanish captains, Grijalva and Mendoza, was scarcely more 
 fortunate. The vessels were separated on the first night 
 of their voyage, and never again joined company. Grijalva 
 penetrated to an island which he denominated Santa Tome, 
 suoposed to have been situated near the northern point of 
 California, after which he returned to Tehuantepec ; while 
 Mendoza, by his haughty and tyrannical temper, having 
 rendered himself odious to his crew, was murdered by the 
 pilot, Ximenes, who assumed the command. Afraid of re- 
 turning to Mexico, the traitor sailed northward, and dis- 
 covered the coast of California, where he was soon after 
 
 * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 205. Memoir of Cabot, p. 863. 
 
 \ '^ fi. 
 
 J 
 
02 
 
 VLLOA. 
 
 i^ 
 
 n\ 
 
 attacked and «Iain, along ivith twenty of his crew, by the 
 savage natives.* 
 
 The survivors, however, brought the vessel back to Chi- 
 ametta, with the tempting report that the coast abounded 
 in pearls. Cortes now set out himself, with a squadron of 
 three ships ; and, although his vessels were drea'Tully shat- 
 tered in a storm, pursued his voyaf ^ with his accustomed 
 energy, till compelled to return by a summons from Mexico, 
 where the breaking out of serious disturbances required bin 
 immediate presence. ' He intrusted, however, the prosecu- 
 tion of the voyage to Francisco de Ulloa ; and this enter- 
 prising navigator, though at first obligrd by want of pro- 
 visions to return to Mexico, revictualled bis ships, ard again 
 set sail. The pious solemnity with which these ancient 
 mariners were accustomed to regard their proceedings is 
 strikingly shown by the first sentence of his journal : — 
 " We embarked," says he, " in the haven of Acapulco, on 
 the 8th of July, in the year of our Lord 1539, calling upon 
 Almighty God to guide us with his holy hand to those places 
 where he might be served, and his holy faith advanced ; 
 and we sailed from the said port by the coast of Sacatula 
 and Motin, which is sweet and pleasant, owing to the 
 abundance of trees that grow th^re, and the rivers which 
 pass through these countries, fo* hich we often thanked 
 God, their Creator."! A voyage of twenty days brought 
 the squadron to the harbour of Colima, from which they set 
 out on the 23d of August, and after encountering a tem- 
 pest, in which their ships were severely shattered, they 
 stood across the Gulf of California, and came to the mouth 
 of the river St. Peter and St. Paul. On both sides of it 
 were rich and extensive plains, covered with beautiful trees 
 in full leaf; and farther within the land exceeding high 
 mountains, clothed with wood, and affording a charming 
 prospect ; after which, in a course of fifteen leagues, they 
 discovered two other rivers as great or greater than the 
 Guadalquiver, the currents of which were so strong that 
 they might be discerned three leagues off at sea. 
 . Ulloa spent a year in examining the coasts and havens 
 on each side of the Gulf of California, In some places the 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. lii. p. 3(54 ; and Ramusio, Viaggi, v.»l. iii. p. SM- ^ 
 t Baoiusio, vol, iii. p. 339. Murray's North America, vol. ii. p. 68« , 
 
 ^ 
 
 
w, by the 
 
 !k to Chi- 
 abounded 
 adron of 
 ully shat- 
 custonied 
 1 Mexico, 
 uired bin 
 prosecu- 
 lis enter- 
 t of pro- 
 rd again 
 ! ancient 
 tdings is 
 urnal : — 
 mico, on 
 ng upon 
 se places 
 ivanced ; 
 Sacatula 
 r to the 
 •s which 
 thanked 
 brought 
 they set 
 f a teni' 
 d, they 
 e mouth 
 es of it 
 ful trees 
 ig high 
 tanning 
 !S, they 
 lan the 
 ng that 
 
 havens 
 ces the 
 
 355. 
 i. p. C8* , 
 
 VLhOA, 
 
 Spaniards found tha inh^u: . ^^ 
 
 »i<h bow» a„J arrl'.;"J,t;;'»"'''. ?' ^"" '""»'«.* armed 
 
 eaped from rock to rock '.?' i."''""^ «"J activ? and 
 
 lhe,n " by which," says K„ ..'^""'=5 »'" «"ow8 »„?„,! 
 
 arrows, so that »e could br„of^f™^''^ ""'""''"i 'yVrw 
 the dog was struck in tl^e ZsI^TT^^. ^^ •>'» '» leave uH 
 had behaved himself very "aid"" "^ '^ '"'«'"«. after hi 
 having set upon them and n»tt"Z' ""'' 8«atly aided us 
 array But the othe"mastiff d1 f" '" '*" "^ "«ni out of 
 for when they attacke?the Indhns' t^"" J"™ "-a" Kood) 
 
 tant from the pofnt of cS "'?'"" "hundred lelXdiT 
 
 S^^^X«'?fa£S5 
 they afterward assaulted th!'.]?^'? '^^^ *« ^^ tru.sted tha? 
 t« retreat to their velsL^^ f^'^' ""'^^^^ 
 now discovered, i„ 28° trtMafh T' '^^^^ v«yHge"^Thev 
 hey denominated the Isle": C dart tl.^"^' '^^""^' -hicl 
 It m the name of the Spanish mnn' f '"? Possession of 
 
 Xed'^wUhToir.lf/iy^^^^^^^ 
 staves th^=ker tha^ rl^^rrri^f-^^- {r ""'•"'' '»»« 
 at the saUors, braving them w h Cs^ „'ST ."""^ »'"'«^ 
 r HakJuyt, vol. ui. n 4m »o 
 
64 
 
 VLLOA. 
 
 yf 
 
 I I 
 
 Pi': 
 
 till at last it was found necessary to let loose the two mas- 
 tifTs Berecillu and Achillo ; upon which they suddenly took 
 to flight, flying over the rough ground with the speed of 
 wild nurses.* Beyond this island the Spaniards attempted 
 to continue their discoveries along the coast of California; 
 but a tempest having driven them back and damaged their 
 vessels, they determined to return to New-Spain. In their 
 homeward voyage they were in danger f-om a new and ex- 
 traordinary enemy ; for, when sailing in the main ocean at 
 a rapid rate, above 500 whales, in separate shoals, came 
 athwart them within one hour's space. Their monstrous 
 size created great astonishment, some of them approaching 
 80 near the ship as to swim under the keel from one side to 
 the other ; " whereupon," says Francis Preciado, who wrote 
 the relation of the voyage, " we were in great fear lest they 
 should do us some hurt ; but they could not, because the 
 ship had a prosperous and goo:l wind, and made much way, 
 80 that it received no harm although they touched and struck 
 her.»+ 
 
 In this voyage, which for the first time made the world 
 acquainted with the Gulf of California, or Sea of Cortes, 
 Ulloa had not been able to spend sufficient time either in a 
 survey of the coast or in establishing an intercourse with 
 the natives. But not long afler his return, Mendoza, the 
 viceroy of New-Spain, despatched Friar Marco de Nica 
 upon an expedition of discovery from Culeacan, at that 
 time the most northerly Spanish settlement, to a province 
 called Topira, situated in the mountains. The account 
 brought back of the riches and extent of the country proved 
 60 tempting to the ambition of the Spaniards, that soon 
 after Vasquez de Coronado, an officer of great courage and 
 experience, was appointed by Mendoza to the command of 
 a large force, for the reduction of the new territory ; while, 
 to co-operate with this land expedition, a naval armament 
 was fitted out, of which Ferdinand de Alarchon was ap- 
 pointed admiral, with orders to explore the Gulf of Califor- 
 nia. As far as conquest was intended, these mighty prepa- 
 rations conducted to no permanent results ; but the voy- 
 age of Alarchon led to some important discoveries. 
 
 After a survey of the lower part of the coast of the gul^ 
 
 * Ramusio,vol. iii.p. 351. 
 t Hakluyt, vbl. iU. p. 434. 
 
 Haklayt, vol. ill. p. 419. 
 
 R ftS 
 
vo mas- 
 nly took 
 peed of 
 tempted 
 ifornia ; 
 ed their 
 In their 
 and ex- 
 ocean at 
 8, came 
 onstrous 
 poaching 
 ; side to 
 ho wrote 
 lest they 
 ause the 
 ich way, 
 id struck 
 
 le world 
 f Cortes, 
 ther in a 
 irse with 
 joza, the 
 de Nica 
 at that 
 province 
 account 
 y proved 
 lat soon 
 age and 
 mand of 
 while, 
 mament 
 was ap- 
 Califor- 
 prepa- 
 the voy- 
 
 Ihe gul^ 
 
 ALARCHON. 
 
 56 
 
 he penetrated with much difficulty and hazard to the bot- 
 tom of the bay, where he found a mighty river, flowing 
 with so furious a current that they could hardly sail against 
 it.^ This was evidently the noble river now known by the 
 name of the Colorado, which has its rise in the great moun- 
 tain-range near the sources of the Rio Bravo del Norte, 
 and after a course of 900 miles falls into the head of the 
 Gulf of California. Alarchon determined to explore i£; 
 and taking with him two boats, with twenty men and some 
 small pieces of artillery, he ascended to an Indian village, 
 the inhabitants of which, by violent and furious gestures, 
 dissuaded the Spaniards from landing. The party of na- 
 tives, at first small, soon increased to a body of 250, drawn 
 up in warlike fashion, with bows and arrows, and displayed 
 banners. The Spanish admiral appeased them by signs, 
 throwing his sword and target into the bottom of the boat, 
 and placing his feet upon them. " They began," says he, 
 in his letter to the viceroy Mendoza, " to make a great mur- 
 muring among themselves, when suddenly one came out 
 from among them with a stafi', upon which he had fixed 
 some small shells, and entered Into the water to give them 
 to me. I took them, and made Higns to him that he should 
 approach. On his doing so, I embrnced him, giving him in 
 exchange some trinkets ; and he returning to his fellows, 
 they began to look upon them and to parley together ; and 
 within a while many of them cheerfully approached, to 
 whom I made signs that they should lay down their ban- 
 ners and leave their weapons ; which they did immediately." 
 Alarchon gives a minute description of the dress, weapons, 
 and appearance of these Indians. They were decked after 
 sundry fashions ; the fac<^s of some were covered with 
 tattooed marks, extending lengthwise from the forehead to 
 the chin, others had only half the face thus ornamented ; 
 but all were besmeared with coal, and every one as it liked 
 him best. Others carried vizards before them, which had 
 the shape of faces. t They wore on their heads a piece of 
 deer-skin two spans broad, like a helmet, ornamented by 
 various sorts of feathers stuck upon small sticks. Their 
 weapons were bows and arrows, and two or three kinds of 
 
 * Ramusio, Viaygi, vol. iii. p. 363. 
 
 t Such is the translation of Hakluyt; but the passage in the original 
 1b obsfiure. 
 
 'S: 
 
 -'' 1 
 
 I 
 
 » 
 
r 
 
 i! 
 
 i* 
 
 ! r 
 
 '!'' 
 h 
 
 06 
 
 ALARCHON. 
 
 macei of wood hardened in the fire. Their frntureft Were 
 handaome Rnd refrular, ))ut diHtigurcd by holes bored through 
 the nostrils and in many parts of the ears, on which were 
 hung pendants, shells, and bones. About their loins was a 
 girdle of divers colours, with a large bunch of feathers in 
 the middle, which hung down like a tall. They cut their 
 hair short before, but allow it behind to grow down to their 
 waist. Their bodies were tattooed with coals, and the 
 women wore round their waist a groat wreath of painted 
 feathers, glued together, and hanging down both before and 
 behind.* 
 
 Having procured by signs a pacific reception from this 
 new people, Alarchon found to his mortification that they 
 did not understand his interpreter ; but, nflcr a little inter- 
 course, observing that they worshipped the sun, he unscru- 
 pulously intimated to them by significant gestures that he 
 came from that luminary; "upon which they marvelled," 
 says he, " and began to survey me from top to toe, and showed 
 me more favour than they did before." Soon after this 
 a man was found among them who could speak the language 
 of the interpreter; and an intercourse of a very extraordi- 
 nary nature took place, in which the honesty and simplicity 
 of the Indians are strikingly contrasted with the false and 
 unprincipled policy of the Spaniards. The passage is un- 
 commonly graphic and interesting : " The Indian first de- 
 sired to know what nation we were, and whence we came 1 
 "Whether we came out of the water, or inhabited the earth, 
 or had fallen from the heaven 1" To this the admiral re- 
 plied, that they were Christians, and came from far to see 
 them, being sent by the sun, to which he pointed. " After 
 this introduction, the Indian," continues Alarchon in his 
 account of the voyage, " began again to ask me how the sun 
 had sent me, seeing he went aloft in the sky and never stood 
 still, and for these many years neither they nor their oldest 
 men had ever seen such as we were, and the sun till that 
 hour had never sent any other. I answered him, it was 
 true the sun pursued his course aloft in the sky, and never 
 stood still, but nevertheless they might perceive that at his 
 setting and rising he came near the earth, where his dwelling 
 VfSMf and that they always saw him come out of one place ; 
 
 * Ramuslo, vol. 111. p. 3M 
 
^. 
 
 ALARCHON. 
 
 57 
 
 
 was 
 [never 
 lat his 
 lelling 
 Uace ; 
 
 and ho had created me in that land whence he came, in the 
 lume way that he had made innny others whom ho 8ent into 
 other parts ; and now he had deuired me to visit this same 
 river, and the people who dwelt near it, that I might speak 
 with them, and become their friend, and give them such 
 things as they needed, and charge them not to make war 
 against each other. On this he required me to tell them the 
 cause why the sun had not sent me sooner to pacify the wars 
 which had continued a long time among them, and wherein 
 many had been slain. I told him the reason was that I 
 was then but a child. He next inquired why we brought only 
 one interpreter with us who comprehended '^ur language, 
 and wherefore we understood not all other n.an, seeing wo 
 were children of the sun ] To which our interpreter an- 
 swered, that the sun had also begotten him, and given \Jm 
 a language to understand him, his master the <.dmirH], and 
 others ; the sun knew well that they dwelt there, but because 
 that great light had many other businesses, and because his 
 master was but young, he sent hini no sooner. The I'' 'lian 
 interpreter," continues Alarchon, " then turning to m* , tn'id 
 suddenly, ' Comest thou, therefore, to be our lord, anu that 
 we should serve thee V To which I answered, I came not 
 to be their lord, but rather their brother, and to give them 
 such things as I hud. He then inquired whether I was the 
 sun's kinsQian, or his child ? To which I replied I w»8 his 
 son, hut those who were with me, though all born in one 
 country, were not his children ; upon which he raised his 
 voice loudly and said, ' Seeing thou doest us so much good, 
 and dost not wish us to make war, and art the child of the 
 sun, we will all receive thee for our lord, and always serve 
 thee ; therefore we pray thee not to depart hence and leave 
 us.' After which he suddenly turned to the p^* >ple, and be- 
 gan to tell them that I was the child of the sui>, and therefore 
 they should all choose me for their lord."* The Indians 
 appeared to be well pleased with this proposal, and assisted 
 the Spaniards in their ascent of the river to the distance of 
 eighty-five leagues ; but finding it Impossible to open a com- 
 munication with the army under Coronado, Alarchon put 
 about his ships, and returned to Mexico. f 
 
 ♦ Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 429. Ramusio, vol. ill. p. 336. 
 t Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 438, 439. ^ 
 
 
 .1 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 '4 
 
 
1'^ 
 
 41 
 
 « T 
 
 58 
 
 DE 
 
 FU<JA. 
 
 After the expeditions of Coronado and Alarchon, in 1542, 
 the spirit of enterprise among the Spaniards experienced 
 some check, owing probably to the feeling of mortification 
 and disappointment which accompanied the return of these 
 officers. Yet Mendoza, unwilling wholly to renounce the 
 high hopes he had entertained, despatched a small squadron 
 under Rodriguez Cabrillo, which traced the yet undiscovered 
 coast of North America some degrees beyond Cape Men- 
 docino,* and in 1596 and 1602, Sebastian Viscaino extended 
 these discoveries along the coast of New-Albion to a river 
 which appears to have been the present Columbia. It has 
 even been asserted by some authors, that, four years prior to 
 the voyage of Viscaino, Juan de Fu^a, a veteran Spanish 
 pilot, conducted a ship beyond the mouth of the Columbia, 
 and doubling Cape Flattery, entered the Straits of Georgia, 
 through which he passed till he came to Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound. De Fu9a imagined, not unnaturally, considering the 
 imperfect and limited state of geographical knowledge, that 
 he had now sailed through the famous and fabulous Strait 
 of Anian : and that, instead of being in the Pacific as h& 
 then actually was, he had conducted his vessel into the spa- 
 cious expansR of the Atlantic. With this information he 
 returned to Acapulco ; but the Spanish viceroy received 
 him coldly, and withheld all encouragement or reward, — a 
 circumstance to which we may perhaps ascribe the cessation 
 from this period of all further attempts at discovery by this 
 nation upon the north-west coast of America. The whole 
 voyage of De Fu^a, however, rests on apocryphail authority^ 
 
 / f 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Russian and English Voyages. 
 
 Behring— Tchlrikow— Cook and Gierke — Meares— VancouTcr— 
 
 Kotzebiie. 
 
 As the zeal of the Spanish government in extending thetr 
 discoveries upon the north-west coast of Aniorica abated, 
 another great nation, hitherto scarcely known is Europe, 
 undertook at a latoi' period the task which they had aban« 
 
BEHRINO*S FIRST VOYAGE. 
 
 59 
 
 ' '\ 
 
 doned. Russia, within little more than half a century, had 
 grown up from a collection of savage, undisciplineci, and 
 unconnected tribes, into a mighty people. Her conquests 
 had spread with amazing rapidity till they embraced the 
 whole of the north of Asia, and under the energetic admin- 
 istration of Peter the Great this empire assumed at once 
 that commanding influence in the scale of European nations 
 which it has continued to preserve till the present times. 
 Among the many great projects of this remarkable man, 
 the solution of the question, whether Asia, on the north-east, 
 was united with America, occupied a prominent place ; and 
 it appears that during his residence in Holland in 1717, he 
 had been solicited by some of the most eminent patrons of 
 discovery among the Dutch to institute an expedition to 
 investigate the subject. The resolution he then formed to 
 set this great point at rest by a voyage of discovery was 
 never abandoned ; but his occupation in war, and the mul- 
 tiplicity of those state-affairs which engrossed his attention, 
 caused him to delay its execution from year to year, till he 
 was seized with his last illness. Upon his death-bed he 
 wrote, with his own hand, instructions to Admiral Apraxin, 
 and an order to have them carried into immediate execution. 
 They directed, first, that one or two boats with decks should 
 be built at Kamtschatka, or at any other convenient place ; 
 second Iv, that with these a survey should be made of the 
 most northerly coast of his Asiatic empire, to determine 
 whether they were or were not contiguous to America ; and, 
 thirdly, that the persons to whom the expedition was intrusted 
 should endeavour to ascertain whether on these coasts there 
 was any port belonging to Europeans, and keep a strict 
 look-out for any European ship, taking care also to employ 
 some skilful men in making inquiries regarding the name 
 and situation of the coasts which they discovered, — of all 
 which they were to keep an exact journal, and transmit it 
 to St. Petersburg. 
 
 Upon the death of Peter the Great, which happened 
 shortly after these instructions were drawn up, the Empress 
 Catherine entered fully into his views, and gave orders to 
 fit out an expedition for their accomplishment. The com- 
 mand was intrusted to Captain V^itus Behring. Under his 
 orders were two lieutenants, Martin Spangberg and Alexei 
 Tchirikow ; and, besides other subaltern officers, they en- 
 
 
 '■ .'• 
 
 
60 
 
 BEHRINO'S FIRST VOYAGE. 
 
 \t 
 
 gaged several excellent ship-carpenters. On the 5th of Feb- 
 ruary, 1 725, they set out from St. Petersburg, an<l on the 16th 
 March arrived at Tobolsk, the capital of Siberia. After a 
 survey of the rivers Irtisch, Ob, Ket, Jenesei, Tungusca, 
 and Ilim, they wintered at Ilim, and, in the spring of 1726, 
 proceeded down the river Lena to Jakutzk. The naval stores 
 and part of the provisions were now intrusted to Lieutenant 
 Spangberg, who embarked on the Juduma, intending to sail 
 from it into the Maia, and then by the Aldan into the Lena. 
 He was followed by Captain Behring, who proceeded by 
 land with another part of the stores, while Lieutenant 
 Tchirikow staid at Jakutzk, with the design of transporting 
 the remainder overland. The cause of this complicated 
 division of labour was the impassable nature of the country 
 between Jakutzk and Ochotzk, which is impracticable for 
 wagons in summer, or for sledges during winter. Such, 
 indeed, were the difficulties of transporting these large bales 
 of provisions, that it was the 30th July, 1727, before the 
 whole business was completed. In the mean time a vessel 
 had been built at Ochotzk, in which the naval stores were 
 conveyed to Bolscheretzkoi in Kamtschatka. From this 
 they proceeded to Nischnei Kamtschatkoi Ostrog, where a 
 boat was built similar to the packet-boats used in the Baltic. 
 After the necessary articles were shipped, Captain Behring, 
 determining no longer to delay the most important part of his 
 enterprise, set sail from the mouth of the river Kamtschatka 
 on the 14th of July, steering north-east, and for the first 
 time laying down a survey of this remote and desolate coast. 
 "When they reached the latitude of 64° 30', eight men of the 
 wild tribe of the Tschuktschi pushed off from the coast in a 
 leathern canoe, called a baidar, formed of seal- skins, and 
 fearlessly approached the Russian ship. A communication 
 was immediately opened by means of a Koriak interpreter ; 
 and, on being invited, they came on board without hesita- 
 tion. By these natives Behring was informed that the coast 
 turned towards the west. On reaching the promontory called 
 Serdze Kamen, the accuracy of this information was estab- 
 lished, for the land was seen extending a great way in a 
 western direction, — a circumstance from which Behring 
 somewhat too hastily concluded, that he had reached the 
 extremest northern point of Asia. He was of opinion that 
 thence the coast must run to the west, and therefore no 
 
BEHRING 8 SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 61 
 
 'M 
 
 >fFeb- 
 le 16th 
 After a 
 
 IgUSCSIf 
 
 f 1726, 
 I stores 
 atenant 
 r to sail 
 e Tiena. 
 jded by 
 utenant 
 sporting 
 plicated 
 country 
 able for 
 . Such, 
 rge bales 
 ifore the 
 a vessel 
 ires -were 
 rom this 
 where a 
 le Baltic. 
 |Behring, 
 lart of his 
 itschatka 
 the first 
 ite coast. 
 |en of the 
 oast in a 
 ins, and 
 inication 
 rpreter ; 
 It hesita- 
 ;he coast 
 »Ty called 
 |as estah- 
 my in a 
 Behring 
 Iched the 
 lion that 
 lefore no 
 
 ! 
 
 junction with America could take place. Satisfied that he 
 had now fulfilled his orders, he relumed to the river Kam- 
 tschatka, and again took up his winter-quarters at Nischnei 
 Kamtschatkoi Ostrog.* 
 
 In this voyage it was conjoctured by Behring and his 
 officers, from the reports of llio Kamtschadales, that in all 
 probability another country must be situated towards the 
 east, at no great distance from Serdze Kiimen ; yet no im- 
 mediate steps were taken either to complete the survey of 
 the most northerly cojvsts of Ochozkoi, or to explore the 
 undiscovered region immediately opposite the promontory. 
 In the course of a campjiign, however, against the fierce 
 and independent nation of the Tschuktshi, Ciiptain Paw- 
 lutzki penetrated by the rivers Nboina, Bela, and Tcherna, 
 to the borders of the Frozen Sea ; and after defeating the 
 enemy in three battles, passed in triumph to a promontory 
 supposed to be the 'I'gchukotzkoi Noss. From this point 
 he sent part of his little army in cunDes, while he himself 
 conducted the remaining division by land round the promon- 
 tory, taking care to march along the seacoasf, and to com- 
 municate every evening with bis canoes. In this manner 
 Pawlutzki reached the promontory which is conjectured to 
 have been the farthest limit of Bchring's voyage, and thence 
 by an inland route returned, on the 21st C)ctober, 1730, to 
 Anadirsk, having advanced an im[)ortant step in ascertain- 
 ing the separation between America and the remote north- 
 easterly coast of Asia. 
 
 Although the separation of the two continents had been 
 thus far fixed, a wide field of discovery yet remained unex- 
 plored ; and in 1741, Behring, Spangberg, and Tchirikow 
 once more volunteered their services for this purpose. These 
 offers were immediately accepted ; the captain was pro- 
 moted to the rank of a commander, the two lieutenants 
 were made captains, and instructions drawn up for the con- 
 duct of the expedition, in which it was directed that the 
 destination of the voyages should be eastward to the con- 
 tinent of America, and southward to J ipan, while, at the 
 same time, an endeavour was to be made for the discovery 
 of that northern passage through the Frozen Sea which 
 
 VI 
 
 i'- 
 
 .1 
 
 « 
 
 * Hairria's Collection of Voyages, vol. 
 ■Ihn Discoveries, p. 83, 24, 94. 
 
 F 
 
 ii. p. 1020, 1021 ; Ooxe's Rus- 
 
 J 
 
¥ 
 
 i •,■■■ 
 f I' 
 
 . f 
 
 * '( 
 
 r 
 ■^ 
 
 62 
 
 BEHRINO AND TCHIRIKOW : 
 
 i '■ 
 
 i i ) 
 
 had been so repeatedly but unsuccessfully attempted by 
 other European nations. The voyage to Japan, under the 
 command of Captain Spangberg and Lieutenant Walton, 
 was eminently successful ; and one of its material results 
 was the correction of a geographical error of considerable 
 magnitude, by which that island had hitherto been placed 
 under the same meridian as Kamtschatka, instead of 11^ 
 more to the westward. The expedition of Behring, no less 
 important and satisfactory, was destined to be fa al to its 
 excellent commander. After a winter spent in the harbour 
 of Awatscha, or Petropalauska, on the west sidi of the 
 great peninsula of Kamtbchatka, Behring got his st res on 
 board the two packet-boats built at Ochotzk, exp^e^ ^ly for 
 the intended American discoveries. The first of the e, the 
 St. Peter, was that in which the commander embarkeu ; the 
 second, the St. Paul, was intrusted to Captain Tchirikow. 
 Along with Behring went Lewis de Lisle de la Croyere, 
 Professor of Astronomy, while Mr. George William Steller, 
 an experienced chymist and botanist, accompanied Tchi- 
 rikow. 
 
 All things being ready, a council of officers was held, in 
 which the question regarding the course they should steer 
 was considered, and it happened, unfortunately for the ex- 
 pedition, that an important error had crept into the map pre- 
 sented by the Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg to the 
 senate, in laying down a coast south-east from Awatscha, 
 extending fifteen degrees from west to east, while no land 
 was marked due east. At this spot were written on the map 
 the • ords " Land seen by Don .Jean de Gama :" and, trust- 
 ing to the accuracy of this information, it was determined 
 to steer first south-enst-by-east, in the hope of discovering 
 this continent ; after which they might follow its coasts as a 
 guide towards the north and east. On the 4th of June, 1741, 
 they accordingly weighed anchor and steered south-east-by- 
 south, till, on the I2th, they found themselves in latitude 
 46°, without the slightest appearance of the coast of De Ga- 
 ma. Convinced at last of their error, they held on a north- 
 erly course as far as 50° north latitude, and were just about to 
 steer due east, with the hope of reaching the continent of 
 America, when the two ships were separated in a violent 
 storm accompanied by a thick fog. Behring exerted every 
 •iSbrt to rejoin his consort ; but all proved in vain. Ho 
 
 H 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 B 
 
THEIR SECOND VOYAQE. 
 
 63 
 
 ipted by 
 nder the 
 Walton, 
 1 results 
 siderable 
 sn placed 
 d of 11** 
 gr, no less 
 aal to its 
 8 harbour 
 d. of the 
 st res on 
 ^re^ -ly for 
 the e, the 
 rkeu ; the 
 'chirikow. 
 I Croyere, - 
 im Steller, 
 lied Tchi- 
 
 as held, in 
 ould steer 
 for the ex- 
 e map pre- 
 3urg to the 
 Awatscha, 
 e no land 
 >n the map 
 and, trust- 
 letermined 
 liscovering 
 Icoasts as a 
 une, 1741, 
 .h-east-by- 
 |in latitude 
 of De Ga- 
 in a north- 
 st about to 
 Iniinent of 
 a violent 
 •ted every 
 ain. He 
 
 M 
 
 ciruised for three days between 50° and 61® north latitude) 
 after which he steered back to the south-east as far as 45° ; 
 but Tchirikow, after the storm, had taken an easterly course 
 from 48° north latitude, so that they never met again. 
 
 Both, however, pursued their discoveries simultaneously, 
 and on the 15th of July, being in 56° north latitude, Tchi- 
 rikow reached the coast of Amr "iia. The shore proved to 
 be steep and rocky, and, in consequence of the high surf, 
 he did not venture to approach it, but anchoring in deep 
 water, despatched his mate, Demetiew, with the long-boat 
 and ten men on shore. The boat was provisioned for some 
 days, the men armed and furnished with minute instructions 
 as to their mode of proceeding, and the signals by which 
 they were to communicate with the ship. But neither mate, 
 men, nor barge were ever again heard of. This was the 
 more mysterious, as all at first appeared to go well with 
 them. The barge was seen from the ship to row into a bay 
 behind a small cape, and the appointed signals were made, 
 intimating that she had landed in safety. Day after day 
 the signals agreed on continued from the shore. The 
 people on board began at last to think that the barge had 
 probably received damage in landing, and could not return 
 till she was repaired, and it was resolved to send the small 
 boat on shore, with the boatswain Sawelow and six men. 
 Among these were some carpenters and a careener, well 
 armed and provided with the necessary materials, and the 
 boatswain had orders to return with Demetiew in the long- 
 boat the moment the necessary repairs were completed. 
 But neither mate nor boatswain ever came back ; and the 
 most dark surmises of their fate were excited by the cessa- 
 tion of the signals, and the continual ascent of a large 
 volume of smoke from the landing-place. Next day, how- 
 ever, a revival of hope was felt at the sight of two boats 
 which were observed rowing from the land towards the ship. 
 It was believed to be Demetiew and Sawelow ; and Tchiri- 
 kow ordered all hands on deck, to prepare for setting sail on 
 a moment*s warning. A few minutes changed these cheer- 
 ful anticipations into sorrow ; for, as the boats approached, 
 it was discovered that they were filled by American savages, 
 who, seeing many persons on deck, instantly shipped their 
 paddles and remained at a cautious distance. They then 
 stood up, and crying with a loud voice " Agai, agai !" re- 
 
 i 
 
 "i I 
 
r I' 
 
 
 m 
 
 BEHRINO AND TCHIRIKOW 
 
 \ 
 
 I ! 
 
 ?■' ^^5 
 
 turned with prpat speed to the shore. A strong west wind 
 now rose nnd tlirciitcned to diish the vessel on the rocky 
 coast, so that they were oblijred to weigh anchor and put to 
 sea without the slightest hope of hearing any further intelli- 
 gence of their men ; for they had no more small boats, and 
 all communication with the shore was cut off. Tchirikow, 
 however, cruised some days in the neighbourhood, and when 
 the weather became milder, returned towards the spot where 
 his people landed ; but all appeared silent, lonely, and un- 
 inhabited : and in a council of the officers, it was determined 
 to set out on their return, though with the most poignant 
 regret at beinji oldiged to leave this remote and desolate 
 coast without hearing the slightest account of their com- 
 panions. They arrived at Kamtschatka on the 27th of 
 July.* No news of the fate of Demctiew and Sawelow 
 ever reached Russia ; but it is evident that they had been 
 successively attacked and murdered by the savages. " The 
 natives of this part of the north-west coast of America," 
 says Captain Burney, " live principally by hunting and 
 catching game, in which occupations they are in the con- 
 tinual practice of every species of decoy. They imitate 
 the whistlings of birds, — they have carved wooden masks 
 resembling the heads of animals, which they put on over 
 their own and enter the woods in masquerade. They had 
 observed the signals made to the ship by 'he Russian boat 
 which first came I'o land ; and the continuance of signals 
 afterward seen and heard by the Russians on board were 
 doubtless American imitations."t 
 
 Exactly three days after Tchirikow descried land, it 
 appears that Commodore Behring also got sight of the con- 
 tinent in 58° 28", or, according to another account, 60° north 
 latitude. The prospect was magnificent and awful, ex- 
 hibiting high moantains covered from the summits with 
 snow. One of these, far inland, was particularly remarked : 
 it was plainly discernible sixteen German miles out at sea; 
 and Steller says in his journal, that in all Siberia he had 
 not met with a more lofty mountain. t The commodore, 
 being much in want of water, approached the coast with 
 
 i ^ 
 
 * Muller, D^couvertes faites par lesRnsses, vol. i. p. 254. 
 
 f Barney's History of North-eastern Voyages of Discovery, p. 180. 
 
 t Ibid. p. 164. 
 
THEIR SECOND VOVAOE. 
 
 65 
 
 the hope of beins; able to land. He accordingly reached the 
 shore on the 20th July, and anchored under a large island 
 not far from the continent. A point of land projecting into 
 the sea at this place they called St. Ellas Cape, as it was 
 discovered on that saint's day ; while another headland was 
 denominated St. Hermogencs; and between these lay a bay, 
 in which, if it became necessary to take shelter, they trusted 
 they would find security. Two boats were now launched, 
 in the first of which Kytrof, the master of the fleet, was 
 sent to examine the bay, while Steller proceeded with the 
 other to fetch water. Kytrof found a convenient anchorage ; 
 and on an adjacent island were a few empty huts formed 
 of smooth boards, ornamented in some places with rude 
 carving. Within the huts they picked up a small box of 
 poplar, a hollow earthen ball in which a stone rattled, con- 
 jectured to be a child's toy, and a whetstone, on which it 
 appeared that copper knives had been sharpened.* Steller, 
 on the other hand, near the spot where be landed, discovered 
 a cellar in which was a store of red salmon, and a sweet 
 herb dressed for food in the same manner as in Kamtschatka. 
 Near them were ropes, and various pieces of household 
 furniture and of domestic utensils. At a short distance he 
 came to a place where the savages had recently dined,— 
 beside which they found an arrow, and an instrument for 
 procuring fire exactly similar to that used for the same pur- 
 pose in Kamtschatka. The sailors who fetched the fresh 
 water had found two fireplaces with the ashes newly ex- 
 tinguished, and near them a parcel of hewn wood, with 
 some smoked fishes like large carp. They observed also 
 marks of human footsteps in the grass, but no natives were 
 seen. In case, however, they should return, some small 
 presents, such as it was conjectured might be suited to their 
 taste or their wants, were left in the huts. These consisted 
 of a piece of green glazed linen, two iron kettles, two knives, 
 two iron Chinese tobacco-pipes, a pound of tobacco leaves, 
 and twenty large glass beads. Steller, an enthusiastic 
 iiaturalist, entreated that he might have the command of the 
 small boat and a few men, to complete a more accurate sur- 
 vey of this new coast ; but Behring, who was from his ad- 
 vanced age rather timid and over-cautious, put a decided 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 * Cdxeli Rosfllan Diaoovvries, p. 49^ 48. 
 
 r2 
 
f 
 
 'i'f 
 
 66 
 
 BEHRINO AND TCHIRIKOW : 
 
 It' 
 
 <:- 
 
 )' !i 
 
 negative upon the proposal ; and his scientific compnnion, 
 having climbed a steep rock to obtain a view of the adjacent 
 country, found hia progress interrupted by an immediate 
 order to come on board. " On descending the mountain," 
 says he in his journal, " which was overspread with a forest 
 without any traces of a road, finding it impassable, I re- 
 ascended, looked mournfully at the limits of my progress, 
 turned my eyes towards the continent which it was not in 
 my power to explore, and observed at the distance of a few 
 versts some smoke ascending from a wooden eminence. 
 *• * * Again receiving a positive order to 
 
 join the ship, I returned with my collection."* 
 
 Having put to sea next day, the 2 1st of July, they found 
 it impossible, according to their original intention, to explore 
 the coast as far as 65° north latitude, as it seemed to extend 
 indefinitely to the south-west. It was studded with many 
 small islands, the navigation through which, especially 
 during the night, was dangerous and tedious. On the 30th 
 of July they discovered, in latitude 56°, an island which they 
 called Tumannoi Ostrog, or Foggy Island ; and soon after 
 the scurvy broke out with the most virulent symptoms in the 
 ship's crew ; so that, in hopes of procuring water, they 
 again ran to the north, and soon discovered the continent, 
 with a large group of islands near the shore, between which 
 they came to anchor. These they called the Schumagins, 
 after the name of one of their men who died there. While 
 at this anchorage the weather became boisterous, and some 
 brackish water procured from one of the largest islands 
 increased the virulence cff the disease, which prevailed to 
 an alarming degree. All attempts to put to sea proved for 
 some diiys unsuccessful, owing to the strong contrary winds; 
 and at length one morning they were roused by a loud cry 
 from one of the islands, upon which they saw a fire burning. 
 Soon after, two Americans rowed towards the ship in their 
 canoes, which in shape resembled those of Greenland and 
 Davis's Strait. They stopped, however, at some distance, 
 and it was discovered that they not only understood the 
 language of the calumet, or pipe of peace, employed by the 
 North American Indians, but had these symbolical instru- 
 ments along with them. They were sticks with hawks' wings 
 
 *" Coxe's R?issian Discoveries, p, 40, 11. 
 
 i\ t 
 
THEIR SECOND VOTAGS. 
 
 attached to one end. It was at first impossible to induce 
 the natives to come on board ; and Behring, anxious to 
 establish a commutiication, and to become acquainted with 
 the country, despatched Lieutenant Waxel in the boat with 
 nine men well armed, among whom was a Tschuktschian 
 or Koriak interpreter. It was found, however, that the 
 savages were utterly ignorant of his language ; and Wnxel, 
 having sent some men on shore, who fastened the boat by a 
 long rope j)assed round a rook on the beach,* commenced a 
 friendly intercourse by means of signs. The Americans 
 were disposed to be on the most amicable terms with their 
 new acquaintances, giving them whales' flesh, the only pro- 
 vision they appeared to possess ; and at last one of them so 
 far overcame his fears as to join the Russian lieutenant in 
 the boat, which still lay a little way from the shore. Anx- 
 ious to conciliate his favour and treat him with distinction, 
 Waxel somewhat thoughtlessly presented him with a cup 
 of brandy ; but the effect proved the reverse of what was 
 expected. He made the most ludicrous wry faces, spit vio- 
 lently out of his mouth all that he had not swallowed, and 
 cried aloud to his companions on the shore, complaining 
 of the treatmfint he had experienced. "Our men," says 
 Mr. J' eller ia his journal, " thought the Americans had 
 sailors' stomachs, and endeavoured to remove his disgust by 
 presenting him with a lighted pipe of tobacco, which he 
 accepted ; but he was equally disgusted with his attempt to 
 smoke. The most civilized European would be affected in 
 the same manner if presented with toad-stool, or rotten fish 
 and willow bark, which are delicacies with the Kamtscha- 
 dales." It was evident he had never tasted ardent spirits 
 or smoked tobacco till this moment ; and although every 
 effort was made to sooth him and restore his confidence, by 
 offering him needles, glass beads, an iron kettle, and other 
 gifts, he would accept of nothing, and made the most ea((er 
 and imploring signs to be set on shore. In this it was 
 judged right to gratify him, and Waxel, at the same time, 
 called out to the sailors who were on the beach to come 
 back ; the Americans made a violent attempt to detain them, 
 but two blunderbusses were fired over their heads, and had 
 the effect of making them fall flat on the ground, while the 
 Russians escaped and rejoined their companions. 
 This adventure gave them an opportunity of •xamining 
 
M 
 
 BCflRINO AND TCHIRIKOW ! 
 
 m: 
 
 'tti 
 
 < 
 
 -t 
 
 
 this new people, now for the first time visited by EurupennK< 
 **The islanders were of moderate stature, but loUrrtbly well 
 proportioned; tlioir nrms and legs vc-ry fleshy. '1' heir hair 
 was straight and of a glossy blackness ; their faces brown 
 and flat, but neither broad nor large ; their eyes were black, 
 and their lips thick and turned upwards ; their necks were 
 short, their shoulders broad, and their bodies thick but not 
 corpulent. Their upper garment was made of whales* 
 intestines, their breeches of seals* skins, and their caps 
 formed out of the hide of sea-lions, adorned with feathers 
 of various birds, especially the hawk. Their nostrils were 
 stopped with grass, and their noses as flat as Ca'mucks*; 
 their faces pamted, so ..« with red, others with diflferent 
 colours ; and some of them, instead of caps, wore hats 
 of bark, coloured green and red, open at the top, and 
 shaped like candle-screens, apparently for protecting the 
 eyes against the rays of the sun. These hats might lead 
 us to suppose that the natives of this part of America are 
 of Asiatic descent ; for the Kamtschadales and Koriaks 
 wear the like, of which several specimens may be seen in 
 the Museum at St. Petersburg.'** 
 
 At this time Behring being confined by severe sickness, 
 the chief command fell on Waxel, who was preparing to 
 sail, when seven Americans came in their boats to the ship*s 
 side, and two of them catching hold of the entrance-ladder, 
 presented their bonnets and a carved image of bone, bearing 
 some resemblance to a human figure. They likewise held 
 up the calumet, and would have come aboard, but the sailors 
 were taking up the anchor, and the breeze freshening, they 
 were under the necessity of making towards the shore as 
 quickly as possible. There was time, however, to give a few 
 presents, and as the ship passed by the point where they 
 stood, she was saluted with loud and friendly shouls.f 
 
 They had now to struggle against a tedious continuance 
 of westerly wind, accompanied with thick fogs, which ren- 
 dered the navigation in these unknown seas perilous in the 
 extreme. On the 24th of September the mist cleared away, 
 and disclosed a high and desolate coast, which a strong 
 south wind made it dangerous to approach. The majority 
 of the crew were by ihis time disabled by the scurvy, and 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Disppveries, p. 63. 
 
 t Bnntey'b NdrtM-eaattAm Voyagesof Disdbvery* b. 170 
 
 \ 
 
 * 
 
THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 69 
 
 the rest so weak, that to manajDje the vessel during the tem- 
 pcstiious weather was ahnost inipo8si!)le. A violent gale 
 soon alter bej^an to blow from the west, which grailually in- 
 creased, and drove the ship far to the south-east. The storm 
 continued for seventeen days, — a fact to which there are 
 few parallels in the history of shipwrecks ; and the pilot, 
 Andrew Hesselberjj, who bad served for fifty years in seve- 
 ral parts of the world, declared he had never witnessed so 
 lonjr and terrible a gale. Meanwhile they carried as little 
 sail as possible, and were driven for a fortnight at the mercy 
 of the wind, under a sky as black as mi(lni<j;ht, so that all 
 the time they saw neither sun nor stars. W hen the storm 
 abated, they found themselves, by the ship's reckoning, in 
 48° 18" north latitude. Stellcr, in his journal, draws a 
 striking picture of their extreme misery : — " The general 
 distress anil niortality," says he, " increased so fast, that 
 not only the sick died, but those who still struggled to be 
 numbered on the healthy list, when relieved from their posts, 
 fainted and fell down dead, of which the scantiness of water, 
 the want of biscuits and brandy, cold, wet, nakedness, ver- 
 min, fear, and terror were not the least causes."* In these 
 ciicumstances it became di.tHcult to determine whether they 
 should return to Kamtschatka or seek a harbour on the 
 nearest American coast. Al last, in a council of officers, 
 they embraced the first of these alternatives, and again sailed 
 north, after which they steered towards the west. 
 
 On the *9th of October they approached two islands 
 resembling the two first of the Kurilian group. The long- 
 wished-for roast of Kamtschatka, however, did not appear, 
 and the comlition of the vessel and crew began to be 
 deplorable. The men, notwithstanding their diseased state 
 and want of proper food, were obliged to work in the cold ; 
 and as the continual rains had now changed into hail and 
 snow, and the nights shortened and grew darker, their suf- 
 ferings were extreme. The commodore himself had been 
 for some time totally disabled by disease from taking an 
 active command, his wonted energy and strength of mind 
 left him, and he became childishly suspicious and indolent. 
 Among the seamen the sickness was so dreadful, that the 
 two sailors whose berth used to be at the rudder were led 
 
 f 
 
 { i 
 
 :i 
 
 I '; 
 
 * Cox«*s Russian Discoveries, p. 65. 
 
70 
 
 BEHRINO AND TCHIRIROW : 
 
 to it by others, who themselves could walk with diT >,Uy, 
 When one could steer no longer, nnothcr equally feebk hvkj 
 supported to his place. Many sails they durst not hoist, 
 because no one was strong enough to lower them in case 
 of need, while some of the sheets were so thin and rotten 
 that a violent wind would have torn them to pieces. The 
 rest of this interesting but deeply affecting voyage may be 
 given in the excellent abstract of Captain Burney. " On 
 November 4lh, at eight in the morning, they once more saw 
 land ; but only the tops of the mountains at first appeared, 
 and the shore was so distant, that, although they stood 
 towards it the whoh; day, night came on before they could 
 get near enough to look for anchorage. At noon that day 
 they made their latitude by observation to be 56° north. On 
 the morning of the 5th, it was discovered that almost all the 
 shrouds on the starboard side of the ship were broken, 
 which happened from contraction and tenseness caused by 
 the frost ; for, without other mention made of the weather, 
 it is complained that the cold was insupportable. In this 
 distress the commodore ordered the lieutenant to call all the 
 officers together, to consult on their best mode of proceed- 
 ing; and the increased numbers of the sick, with the want 
 of fresh water, determined them at all hazards to seek relief 
 at this land. The wind was northerly, and they had sound- 
 ings at the depth of thirty-seven fathoms, with a sandy 
 bottom. They now steered in towards the land, west-south- 
 west and south-west, and two hours after, at five in the 
 evening, they anchored in twelve fathoms, the bottom sand, 
 and veered out three-quarters of a cable. The sea now 
 began to run high, and at six the cable gave way. Another 
 anchor was let go, yet the ship struck twice, though they 
 found, by the lead, five fathoms depth of water. The cable 
 quickly parted ; and it was fortunate a third anchor was not 
 ready, for while they were preparing it a high wave threw 
 the ship over a banK of rocks, where all at once she was in 
 still water. They now dropped their anchor in four fathoms 
 and a half, about 600 yards from the land, and lay quiet 
 during the rest of the night ; but in the morning they found 
 themselves surrounded with rocks and breakers. They 
 were certain that the coast of Kamtschatka was not far dis- 
 tant ; but the condition of the ship and the crew, with the 
 idvanced season of the year, rendered it apparent that they 
 
THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 71 
 
 hoist, 
 in case 
 rotten 
 The 
 nay be 
 "On 
 )re saw 
 peared, 
 y stood 
 y could 
 lat day 
 h. On 
 t all the 
 broken, 
 used by 
 veather, 
 In this 
 11 all the 
 proceed- 
 he want 
 ek relief 
 d sound- 
 a sandy 
 it- south- 
 in the 
 m sand, 
 lea now 
 Another 
 gh they 
 he cable 
 was not 
 e threw 
 
 must remain upon this land all winter. Those who were 
 able to work wont on Hhoro to propHre lodgings for the sick. 
 This thoy nccomplishtid by (li<j^ini{ pits or caverns between 
 sonio siindhilU noiir a l)rt)ok which r:tti from a mountain to 
 the sea, using their sails as a temporary covering. There 
 was no appearance of inhabitants ; nor were any trees seen, 
 although driflwood was found along the shore. No grass 
 nor antiscorbutic herbs were discoverable ; the island, 
 indeed, was so deeply covered with snow, that even if it 
 produced any antiseptic plants, the patients had not strength 
 to lay them open ; and at this time the Russians were little 
 acquainted with the proper remedies for this dreadful dis- 
 ease. On the 8th of November they began to transport the 
 sick to the miserable habitations which had been prepared 
 for them ; and it was remarkable that some who seemed the 
 least reduced, expired the moment they were exposed to the 
 fresh air, and others in making an attempt to stand upon 
 deck." 
 
 On the 9th of November, Behring himself was carried 
 ashore by four men on a handbarrow, carefully secured from 
 the air. The ship had been cast on the east side of the 
 island, and the coast was examined both to the north and 
 south ; but no traces of inhabitants were found. Along the 
 shores were many sea-otters, and the interior swarmed with 
 blue and white foxes. "We saw," says Stellerin his jour- 
 nal, "the most dismal and terrifying objects: the foxes 
 mangled the dead before they could be buried, and were even 
 not afraid to approach the living and helpless who lay scat- 
 tered here and there, and smell to them like dogs. This 
 man exclaimed that he was perishing of cold ; the other 
 complained of hunger and thirst ; and their mouths were so 
 much affected by scurvy that their gums grew over their 
 teeth like a sponge. The stone-foxes, which swarmed round 
 our dwellings, became so bold and mischievous, that they 
 carried away and destroyed different articles of provision 
 
 * ** It must," says Captain Bumey, '* be within the memory of many, 
 the f^reat care with which the apartments or the sick were guarded 
 hgaiiist the admission of Tresh air, and in few instances more than in 
 what was called the sick-berth on board a ship of war, where it was 
 customary to keep a number of diseased ii)ersons lahourins; under differ- 
 ent maladies enclosed and crowded to<;eiher; and fortunately, since the 
 date of this expedition, the management of ibe sick wUb rev^^ect to ilr 
 bas uoderffoae a very eiseatial reform." 
 
 

 n 
 
 DEATH OF BEHRING. 
 
 '■T -* ' 
 
 ikl 
 
 .'.'i 
 
 
 and clothing. One ^ook a shoe, another a boot, a third a 
 glove, a fourth a coat ; and they even stole the iron imple- 
 ments ; while all attempts to drive them away were ineffec- 
 tual."* 
 
 Lieutenant "Waxel, on whom, since the illness of the 
 commodore, the command devolved, and Kytrow, the ship- 
 master, continued healthy at sea ; and the necessity for 
 exertion, in seeing every thing sent on shore, had a favour- 
 able effect in repelling the attacks of the disease. At last, 
 however, they too were laid up, and soon became so weak 
 that, on the 21st of Noven)ber, they were carried ashore like 
 the lesfc. During this dreadful residence on the island, the 
 men lived chiefly on the flesh of the sea-otters, which was 
 so hard and tough that it could scarcely l>e torn to pieces by 
 the teeth. The intestines were mostly used for the sick; 
 and Steller, in his descriptions of the marine animals of 
 these regions, reckons the flesh of the sea-otter as a specific 
 against the scurvy. When not wanted for food they were 
 killed for their fine skins, 900 being collected on the island, 
 and equally divided among the crew. A dead whale, which 
 was thrown upon the coast, they called their magazine, as 
 it proved a resource when nothing better could be got. 
 The flesh was cut into small pieces, which they boiled a 
 long time to separate the oil from it as much as possible, 
 and the remaining hard and sinewy parts they swallowed 
 without chewing. 
 
 In this miserable manner they continued *o support life ; 
 but some of the crew sunk daily under the disease, and on 
 the 8th of December the commodore expired. Behring was 
 an ofl[icer of extraordinary merit ; and, until reduced by the 
 disease of which he became the victim, endowed with 
 unshaken perseverance snd energy. His voyage set at rest 
 the disputed point regarding the separation of the two con- 
 tinents of Aisia and America ; and he has deservedly 
 bequeathed his name to the strait which he was the first to 
 explore, and the desolate island on which he died. It is 
 melancholy to think, that after the exertions he had made in 
 the cause of naval discovery, his life terminated so miser- 
 ably ; for it may almost be said that he was buried alive : 
 the sand rolled down continually from the side of the cav- 
 
 * 06xh^B Russian Discoveries, {>. Hi, T4. 
 
 m 
 
 UJi 
 
third a 
 
 iniple- 
 
 ineffec- 
 
 of the 
 le ship- 
 sity for 
 
 favour- 
 At last, 
 so weiik 
 \ore like 
 and, the 
 lich was 
 lieces hy 
 tie sick; 
 nials of 
 I specific 
 ley were 
 le islantl, 
 le, which 
 azine, as 
 I be got. 
 
 boiled a 
 
 possiV)le, 
 wallowed 
 
 )ort life; 
 >, and on 
 iring was 
 ed by the 
 
 ed with 
 iet at rest 
 two con- 
 leservedly 
 lie first to 
 led. It is 
 made in 
 
 10 miser- 
 lied alive : 
 the cav- 
 
 STATE OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 73 
 
 cm in which he lay, and at last covered his feet ; nor would 
 he suffer it to be removed, saying he felt warmth from it, 
 when he was cold in all other parts ; it thus gradually in- 
 creased upon him till his body was more than half-concealed; 
 so that when he at last expired, it waii found necessary to 
 unearth him previously to his being interred. "Behring," 
 says Steller, who was by no means disposed to exaggerate 
 the good qualities of his commander, " displayed iu his ill- 
 ness the most atfectinij: rcsifjnation to the will of the Su- 
 preme Bein^, and enjoyed his understanding and speech to 
 the last. He was convinced that the crew had been driven 
 on an unknown land ; yet he would not terrify others by 
 declaring his opinion, but cherished their hopes and encour- 
 atjed their exertions. He was buried according to the Prot- 
 estant ritual, and a cross was erected over his grave to mark 
 the spot, and to serve also as an evidence that the Russians 
 had taken possession of the country."* 
 
 Soon after the death of the commodore the whole crew 
 were sheltered from the severity of the winter in subterra- 
 nean dwellings contiguous to each other, and recovered so 
 much strensjth bv the use of sweet and excellent water, and 
 the flesh c the sea-animals killed in hunting, that their ex- 
 istence became comparatively comfortable. Of the manner 
 in which they passed their time during the dreary winter 
 months, from December to May, StcUer has left us in his 
 journal a minute and interesting account. In March the 
 sea-otters disappeared, either from the instinct of changing 
 their abode at particular seasons of the year, or banished by 
 continual persecution ; but their place was supplied by other 
 marine animals, which, in their turn, also left them. " To 
 supply ourselves with fuel," says Steller, " was likewise a 
 considerable labour : as the island produced nothing but 
 willow-bushes, and the drift-wood was often deeply buried in 
 the snow till the end of March, we were compelled to bring 
 it from a distance of even fifteen or sixteen versts ; and our 
 load upon these expeditions amounted to from sixty to 
 eighty pounds, besides our hatchets and kettles, with the 
 necessary implements for mending our shoes and clothes. 
 In April, however, we were relieved from this labour by the 
 thaw and breaking up of the vessel." An anecdote of an 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 79. 
 G 
 
 
 I; 
 
 Ml 
 
«-l 
 
 I J ., ; 
 
 W: 
 
 74 
 
 THEV BUILD A NEW VESSEL. 
 
 escape made by them in hunting, as it is given by the same 
 lively writer, presents us with a striking picture of their 
 manner of life upon the island. " On the 5th of April,'* 
 says he, "during a gleam of favourable weather, Steneser 
 and myself, with my Cossack and a servant of Behring, 
 went on a hunting expedition. Having killed as many sea- 
 otters as we were able to carry, we made a fire in a cliff, 
 where we proposed to pass the night. At midnight a vio- 
 lent hurricane arose,, and the snow fell in such quantities 
 that we should have been buried had we not run continually 
 backwards and forwards. In the morning, after a long and 
 fruitless search for shelter, we resigned oursrlves to our fate ; 
 but the Cossack fortunatelv discovered a larnre cavern, which 
 seemed to have been formed by an earthquake, where we 
 entered with our provision and wf>od. It afforded a secure 
 retreat from the weather, contain*'^ a cavity in which we 
 could hide our provisions from the dep-r^dations of the stone- 
 foxes, and was provided with an aperture which served the 
 purpose of a chimney. The cave and bay, which were 
 named in compliment to me, were inhabited by numerous 
 foxes, which retired on our approach through the chimney ; 
 but the smoke from our fire caused such a spitting and 
 sneezing among them as gave no small diversion to the 
 party. At night, however, they occasionally returned into 
 the cavern, and amused themselves with taking away our 
 caps, and playing other similar gambols. On the 4th we 
 returned to our abode with a rich booty, and were re- 
 ceived with great delight by our companions, who thought 
 us lost."* 
 
 On the 6th of May, such of the crew as were able to 
 work began to build from the relics of the wreck a vessel, 
 which was intended to carry the survivors to Kamtschatka. 
 Their number was now reduced to forty-five, thirty having 
 died on the island, including the three carpenters ; but a 
 Siberian Cossack named Starodubzow, who had for some 
 time worked as a shipwright at Ochotzk, superintended the 
 building of the new ship. At first they were put to great 
 inconvenience from a deficiency of tar ; but by an ingenious 
 contrivance it was extracted from the new cordage which 
 
 * We have availed ourselves of Coxe's translation of this passage, aa 
 published in his Russian Discoveries, \k 85, 86. 
 
RETURN TO KAMTSCHATKA. 
 
 75 
 
 e same 
 if their 
 April," 
 teneser 
 ehring, 
 ny sea- 
 
 a cliff, 
 t a vio- 
 antities 
 ;inually 
 •ng and 
 iir fate ; 
 , which 
 lere we 
 L secure 
 lich we 
 B stone- 
 ved the 
 h were 
 merous 
 imney ; 
 ing and 
 
 to the 
 ed into 
 vay our 
 4th we 
 ere re- 
 ;hought 
 
 able to 
 
 vessel, 
 Ichatka. 
 
 having 
 but a 
 ir some 
 Ided the 
 lo great 
 
 renious 
 which 
 
 bsage, aa 
 
 they had to spare. After being cut and picked, they put it 
 into a large copper kettle, having a cover fitting close, with 
 a hole in the middle. They then took another vessel with 
 a similar cover, which they fixed firm in the ground, and 
 upon this set the copper kettle turned upside down, the 
 apertures in the lids being placed exactly against each other. 
 Part of this machinery was then buried in the earth, and a 
 fire kindled round what was above ground, by which means 
 the tar of the new cordajje melted, and ran into the inferior 
 vessel. This contrivance having removed their greatest 
 diflSculty, by the 10th of x\ugust the new vessel was launched, 
 and on the 16th, Lieutenant Waxel set sail with the melan- 
 choly remnant of his crew ; but, owing to contrary winds, 
 tbey did not make the coast of Kamtschatka till the 25th, 
 although from Behring's Island the distance was not more 
 than thirty German miles. On the 27th they anchored in 
 Awatchka Bay ; and the Cossack Starodubzow, to whose 
 efforts in constructing the vesst 1 the preservation of the 
 crew wa« mainly owing, received the rank of sinbojarski, a 
 degree of Siberian nobility. Such is an account of the 
 celebrated and unfortunate expedition of Commodore Beh- 
 ring, of which the results were highly important to geo- 
 graphical science, although dearly bought by the death of 
 so many brave men. 
 
 Although Lord Mulgrave had failed in his attempt to dis- 
 cover, by a northerly course, a communication between the 
 Pacific and Atlantic Oceans,* the British government did 
 not abandon all hope ; and in 1776, Captain James Cook, 
 who had already established his reputation as cK^i greatest 
 of modern navigators, was selected by the Admir il to con- 
 duct another expedition, reversing only th.i ^>lan, ?nj >'n- 
 deavouring to sail from the Pacific into the Atlanic, instead 
 of from the Atlantic into the Pacific. 
 
 In prosecution of this plan, on the 12th ^f July, 17i^, 
 Cook sailed from Plymouth Sound in the Rf>^oiation- lea-ing 
 instructions for the Discovery, the command of which was 
 intrusted to Captain Charles Clerke, to join him at the Cape. 
 From that place the two ships proceeded, in a course marked 
 by important discoveries, through the southern hemisphere, 
 by Van Diemen's Land, New-Zealand, Otaheite, and the 
 
 * Polar Se8«i and Regions, p. 260-267. 
 
 
 
 in 
 
 
 , 
 
 i 
 
'■ ;(. 1 
 
 , :! 
 
 W COOK AND CLERKe's VOVAGE. 
 
 Sandwich Tslnncls. They then steered north-eastward, and 
 on the 7th of March, in latitude 44^° north, came in sight 
 of the American continent at the coast of New-Albion. 
 Owing to unfavourable winds, which forced the ships to the 
 south, it was the 2yth before Cook anchored in Nootka 
 Sound, where he was soon visited by thirty boats of the 
 natives, carrying each from three to seven or eight persons, 
 both men and women. At first none of the Americans 
 would venture within either ship, and from the circumstance 
 of their boats remaining nt a short distance all night, as if 
 on vi'atch, it wjis evident they regarded the arrival of the 
 strangers with much suspicion. A friendly intercourse, 
 however, was soon established ; and although theft, par- 
 ticularly of any iron utensil, was unscrupulously committed, 
 they were pretty fair and honest in their mode of barter. 
 *' They were," says Cook, " docile, courteous, and good- 
 natured ; but quick in resenting what they looked upon as 
 an injury, and, like most other passionate people, as soon 
 forgetting it. Their stature was ralher below the common 
 size of Kuropeans ; and although at first, owing to the 
 paint and grease which covered their skins, it was believed 
 that they were of a copper complexion, it was afterward 
 discovered that they were in reality a white people. They 
 were well armed with pikes, some headed with bone and 
 many with iron ; becides which they carried bows, slings, 
 knives, and a short clu}>. like the patow of the New-Zea- 
 landers ; their arrows were bnrbed at the point, and the inner 
 end feathered." A dispute occurred after the arrival of the 
 English, between the inhabitants cf the northern and south- 
 «^rn coasts of the sound ; but a pacific treaty was concluded, 
 ai.d the event celebrated by a species of music, in which 
 they bore alternate parts. " Their songs," says Captain 
 Burnoy, who was himself present, ♦' were given in turn, 
 the party singing having their pikes erected. When the 
 first finished they laid down their pikes, and the other party 
 reared theirs. What they sang was composed of few notes, 
 and as wild as could have been expected ; yet it was solemn 
 and in unison, and, what I thought most extraordinary, they 
 were all well in tune with each other. The words were at 
 times given out by one man, as a parish-clerk gives out the 
 first line of a psalm."* , 
 
 * Burney's North-eastern Voyagea of Discovery, p. 213. 
 
 If 
 
 I' > 
 
<m^W- 
 
 \ 
 
 SITRVEY FROM NOOTKA TO NORTON SOUND. 77 
 
 rtl, and 
 n sight 
 Albion. 
 s to the 
 Nootka 
 of the 
 )ersons, 
 lerirans 
 n stance 
 it, as if 
 of the 
 icourse, 
 it, par- 
 imittcd, 
 ■ barter. 
 (1 jrood- 
 jpon as 
 as soon 
 common 
 to the 
 believed 
 fterward 
 , They 
 lone and 
 , slings, 
 BW-Zea- 
 he inner 
 1 of the 
 3 south- 
 icluded, 
 I which 
 Captain 
 n turn, 
 en the 
 |er party 
 notes, 
 solemn 
 •y, they 
 ere at 
 out the 
 
 i 
 
 It appeared evident to Captain Cook that previous to 
 this the inhabitants b^fl never entertained any direct com- 
 munication with Eu . " They were not startled," 
 says he, " by the re\ a musket, till one day, upon en- 
 deavouring to prove 1 that arrows and spears would not 
 penetrate their war-uresses, a gentleman of our company 
 shot a musket-ball through one of them folded six times. 
 At this they were so much staggered, that their ignorance 
 of firearms was plainly seen. This was afterward con- 
 firmed when we used them to shoot birds, the manner of 
 which confounded them." On the ships leaving Nootka 
 Sound, the natives accompanied 'heir farewell with a singu- 
 lar exhibition : " When the anchor was heaving up," says 
 Burney, " they assembled in their boats, which covered the 
 cove, and began a song, in which they flourished the swords, 
 saws, hatchets, and other things which they had obtained 
 from us. In the midst of this valedictory chorus, one man, 
 mounted on a stage of loose boards, which was supported 
 by the people in the nearest canoes or boats, danced with a 
 wooden mask on, which he occasionally changed, making 
 himself resemble sometimes a man, sometimes a bird, and 
 sometimes an animal. Of these masks they have great 
 variety, and they parted with them willingly, except those 
 of the human face ; if they sold any of these, it seemed to 
 be with some repugnance, as if they were parting with the 
 image of a friend or a relation, and were ashamed to be s en 
 so doing."* 
 
 From Nootka Sound Captain Cook made a survey of the 
 coast by Mount St. Elias, till he arrived at a cape which 
 turned short to the north, to which he gave the name of Cape 
 Hinchinbroke ; thence he proceeded to Prince William's 
 Sound ; after which he pursued the coast to the west, which 
 was found o take a southerly direction, as described by 
 Behring and Tehirikow. These navigators, however, as 
 we have seen, had not made a very particular examination ; 
 and although the tenor of Cook's instructions did not permit 
 him to devote much time to the exploring rivers or inlets, till 
 he reached the latitude of 65°, still that eminent officer 
 deemed himself at liberty to complete an accurate survey of 
 this hitherto undiscovered coast, from the arm of the sea 
 
 i%i 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 . 
 
 II I 
 
 • Burney's North-eastern Voyages of Discovery, p. 217, 218. 
 
 G2 
 
 
78 COOK CROSSES BEHRINg's strait to ASIA. 
 
 afterward (lonominatcd Cook's Inlet round the great penin 
 sulaof Ahiskrt, torminating in Cape Oonamak. He thence 
 proceeded aloncr the shores of Bristol Uaj', till he doubled 
 Cape Newenham, from which he .steered in a north-easterly 
 direction and anchored in Norton Sound. licaving this the 
 ships entered Behrin;^''s Strait, and followed the coast to the 
 north-west, till they doubled a promontory situated in 65® 
 45" north latitude, which they named Prince of Wales* 
 Cape, regarding it as the western extremity of all America 
 hitherto known. Soon after, in the evening, they discerned 
 the coast of Asia, and standing across the strait came to 
 anchor in a bay of the Tschuktschi country, near a village 
 from which the natives crowded to the shore. Observing 
 this. Cook landed with three boats well armed, and was re- 
 ceived by the Tschuktschi with cautious courtesy. About 
 forty men, armed each with a spontoon, besides bow and 
 arrow, stood drawn up on a rising ground close b" the village, 
 5),Tiid as the English drew near, three of them came down 
 tt 'Wards the shore, politely taking off their caps and making 
 low bows. On seeing some of the English leap from their 
 boats they retired, and expressed by signs their desire that 
 ri<. more should land ; but when Cook advancet- alone, with 
 Eome Email presents in his hand, their confidence was re- 
 stored, and they exchanged for them two fox-skins and two 
 seahorse-teeth. All this time they never laid down their 
 weapons, but held them in constant reaJiness, except for a 
 short time, when four or five persons disarmed themselves 
 to give the English a song and a dance ; even then, how- 
 ever, they placed them in such a manner that they could 
 reach them in an instant, and evidently for greater security 
 they desired their audience to sit down dtiring the dance. 
 This Asiatic people, although dwelling within fifty miles of 
 the American coast, were evidently a ditlerent race from the 
 inhabitants of the shores of Behring's Strait. All the 
 American-, whom the Entjlish had seen since their arrival 
 on the coast were low of stature, with round chubby faces 
 and high cheek-bones. The Tschuktschi, on the contrary, 
 had long visages, and \ ere '^tout and well made. Several 
 things which they hal with them, ant^ more particularly 
 their clothing, showei! a degree of ingenuity surpassing 
 Tvhat one could expect among so northern a people. Their 
 dress consisted of a cap, frock, breeches, boots, and gloves. 
 
 f 
 
 m 
 
u 
 
 )enin 
 hence 
 jubled 
 isterly 
 lis the 
 to the 
 in65«> 
 iVales* 
 merica 
 eerned 
 ime to 
 village 
 serving 
 vas re- 
 About 
 w and 
 village, 
 e down 
 tnakiifg 
 
 III their 
 ire that 
 le, with 
 
 IV as re- 
 nd two 
 m their 
 
 for a 
 selves 
 how- 
 could 
 ecurity 
 dance, 
 oiles of 
 om the 
 IVII the 
 arrival 
 faces 
 ntrary, 
 leveral 
 ;ularly 
 assing 
 Their 
 loves, 
 
 RETURN OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 79 
 
 all made of leather or skins extremely well dressed, some 
 with the fur on, some without it, and the quivers which con- 
 tained their arrows were made of red leather neatly em- 
 broidered, and extremely beautiful.* 
 
 From this bay the ships again stood over to the north- 
 east, and continuing their examination of the American 
 coast. Cook soon found himself surrounded by the dreary 
 features which mark the scenery of the polar latitudes ; a 
 dark and gloomy sky, thick showers of snow and hail, and 
 immense fields and mountains of ice, covered in some places 
 by the huge forms of the walrus or seahorse, which lay in 
 herds of many hundreds, huddling like swine one over the 
 other. The flesh of these animals, when newly killed, was 
 preferred by the crew to their common fare of salt meat, 
 but within four-and-twenty hours it became rancid and fishy. 
 From a point of land, which was denominated Cape Mul- 
 grave, they now explored the coast to the latitude of 70° 
 29", where their progress was arrested by an unbroken wall 
 of ice, apparently stretching from continent to continent.! 
 At this time the nearest land was about a league distant, 
 and the farthest eastern point seen a low headland much 
 encumbered with ice, to which Cook gave the name of Icy 
 Cape, and which, till the recent discoveries of Captain 
 Beechey, constituted the extreme limit of European dis- 
 covery in that quarter of the globe. It was now the end of 
 August ; and as nothing further couKl be attempted at that 
 season on the American coast, the ships returned to the 
 Sandwich Islands, with the intention of resuming in the 
 succeeding summer the attempt for the discovery of a com- 
 munication between the Pacific and the Atlantic, — an ob- 
 ject which their great commander did not live to execute, 
 having been killed in an unfortunate scuffle with the natives 
 of Owhyee on the Uth of February, 1779. The further 
 conduct of the expedition now fell to Clerke and King, and 
 an attempt was made to penetrate beyond Icy Cape ; but the 
 continued fields of ice rendcvotl it utterly abortive. The ships, 
 therefore, having repasscvl llchrinir'H Strait, came to anchor 
 in the Bay of St. Peter and St. Paul ir» Kamtschatka. Hero 
 Captain Clerke, who had ' -^7 iteen in a dechning state, 
 died ; upon wliich, to the great satisfuction of the crew and 
 
 * Cook's V'oyagi'H, vol. vi. p. 409, 410, 411. 
 t Ibut. p. 415, 41). 
 
 } 
 
 i 
 1.1 
 
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 . I i 
 
 I 
 
 b^ 
 
 
i^'. 
 
 80 
 
 MEARES'S FIRST VOYAGE. 
 
 officers of both ships, who were sick of the dreary naviga- 
 tion in these inhospitable latitudes, they returned home. 
 
 Subsequent to the voyages of Cook and Gierke, the north- 
 west coast of America was visited at different periods by 
 Meares, Vancouver, and Kotzebue ; and though the limit of 
 discovery was not extended beyond Icy Cape, the shores were 
 more minutely examined, and a beneficial commercial inter- 
 course established with the natives. Of Captain Meares's 
 voyages, the great object was to establish a trade between 
 China and the north-west coast of America. For this pur- 
 pose an association of the leading mercantile men in Bengal 
 ^tted out two vessels, — the Nootka, commanded by Meares 
 himself, and the Sea-otter, by Lieutenant Walter Tipping. 
 The Sea-otter in the first instance took a cargo of opium 
 to Malacca, thence she proceeded to America, and is known 
 to have made Prince William's Sound ; but after leaving 
 that harbour no accounts of her were ever received, and it 
 appears certain that she and her crew perished at sea. The 
 fate of Meares in the Nootka was scarcely more tolerable. 
 After a tedious and perilous navigation in the China seas, 
 they made their way through the straits between Oonamak 
 and Oonalaska against a current running seven knots an 
 hour, from which they sailed across to America by the 
 Schumagin Islands, and anchored under Cape Douglas.* 
 Thence they proceeded to Prince William's Sound to winter; 
 and their residence here during October, November, and 
 December, though dreary and tedious, was not without its 
 comforts. The natives were friendly, and brought them 
 provisions ; they caught plenty of excellent salmon, and 
 the large flocks of ducks and geese afforded constant sport 
 to the officers, and a seasonable supply for the table. But 
 the horrors of an arctic winter began soon to gather round 
 them. The ice closted in upon the ship ; the snow fell so 
 thick that all exercise became impossible ; the ducks and 
 geese collected into flocks, and passed away to the south- 
 ward ; the fish totally deserted the creeks ; and the natives, 
 a migratory race, imitatmg the insti ct of these lower 
 species, travelled off in a body with their tempoi'ary wig- 
 wams to a more genial district. To add to these distresses 
 the scurvy made its appeal ince ; while the sun described 
 
 * Meares's Voyages, vol. :. p. 19. Introductory Voyage. 
 
 In 
 
 11- 
 
MEARES 9 FIKST VOYAGE. 
 
 81 
 
 naviga- 
 me. 
 
 3 north- 
 iods by 
 limit of 
 •es were 
 al inter- 
 ^eares's 
 between 
 his pur- 
 i Bengal 
 Meares 
 ripping, 
 f opium 
 s known 
 leaving 
 I, and it 
 sa. The 
 Lolerable. 
 ina seas, 
 Donamak 
 knots an 
 a by the 
 )ouglas.* 
 winter; 
 )er, and 
 thout its 
 ht them 
 non, and 
 mt sport 
 e. But 
 Her round 
 w fell so 
 icks and 
 le south- 
 natives, 
 ae lower 
 ary wig- 
 distresses 
 lescribed 
 
 weekly a smaller circle, find shed a sickly and melancholy 
 light. Even at noon, Imough an atmosphere obscured by 
 perpetual snows, *' tremendous mountains forbade almost a 
 sight of the sky, and cast their nocturnal shadows over the 
 ship in the midst of day." The decks were incapable 
 of resisting the intense freezing of the night, and the lower 
 part of them was covered an inch thick with a hoar frost 
 that had all the appearance of snow, notwithstanding fires 
 were kept constantly burning twenty hours out of the twenty- 
 four. Between the months of January and May, twenty- 
 three men died of the scurvy, and the rest of the crew were 
 so disabled as to be incapable of any labour ; but the sun's 
 return and the commencement of more genial weather pro- 
 duced an instantaneous elfect on the health and spirits of 
 the crew. The natives returned, and assured the poor 
 sufferers that the cold must soon be gone, making them 
 understand bv siijns that the summer would commence 
 about the middle of May ; and the sun, which now began 
 to make a larger circle over the hills, not only chased away 
 the huge and gloomy shadows that, like a funeral-pall, h.ad 
 covered the ship, but brought back the fish to the rivers, and 
 the migratory birds to the shore ; so that they soon enjoyed 
 an ample supply of fresh food. On the 17th of May, a 
 general breaking up of the ice took place throughout the 
 cove, and the feeling that they were once more in clear 
 water, with the prospect of soon leaving a scene of so much 
 distress and horror, cheered the mmds of the crew with in- 
 expressible comfort.* These happy anticipations were soon 
 realized by their sailing from Prince of Wales' Sound on 
 21st June, and reaching the hospitable cluster of the Sand- 
 wich Isles, where such was the effect of the genial climate, 
 that in ten days' residence every complaint had disappeared. 
 On the 2d of September they left the Sandwich Islands, and 
 arrived on the 20th October at Macao in China. 
 
 It may easily be imagined, that during so disastrou.-? a 
 sojourn on the American shore, little or no progress could 
 be made in the survey of the coast, which was rugged ; and 
 at no great distance were mountains, covered with thick 
 woods for about two-thirds of their ascent, beyond which 
 they terminated in immense masses of naked rock. The 
 
 \ 1 
 
 ■>i '' 1 
 
 Ige. 
 
 Meares's Voyages, vol. i. Introductory Voyage, p. 47. 
 
82 NATIVES OF PRINCE WILLIAM's SOUND. 
 
 '(." 
 
 
 black-pine grew in great plenty, and a few black-currant 
 bushes were noticed, bu^ no other kind of fruit or vegetable. 
 The number of savages seen by Mearos did not exceed five 
 or six hundred, and these had no fixed phice of abode, but 
 wandered up and down «s fancy or necessity impelled them. 
 The}' wore strong and athletic, rather exceeding the cr"nmon 
 stature of Europeans, with prominent cheek-bones, r njind 
 flat faces, eyes small and black, and liair, which ihey cut 
 short round the head, of the same jetty colour. A slit in 
 the under lip, parallel to the mouth, and a perforation in 
 the septum of the nose, in which was inserted a large quill 
 or a piece of bark, gave them a hideous look; while ,i sin- 
 gular practice of powdering their hair with the down of 
 birds, allowing the frostwork and icicles to hang from the 
 beard, and painting the neck and face with red ochre, in- 
 creased tlie savage singularity of their appearance. Their 
 clothing consisted of a single frock of the sea-otter skin, 
 reaching to their knees. When employed in their canoes, 
 they used a dress made of the entrails of the whale, which 
 covered the head, and was so disposed that it could be tied 
 round the hole in which they sat, so as to prevent the water 
 from getting into the canoe, while it kept the lower part 
 of the body warm and dry. Their hardihood and capacity 
 of enduring pain astonished the English, and was remark- 
 ably evinced upon an occasion mentioned by Meares : — " In 
 the course of the winter," says he, " among other rubbish, 
 several broken glas^ bottles had been thrown out of the ship, 
 and one of the natives, who was searching among them, cut 
 his foot in a very severe manner. On seeing it bleed, we 
 pointed out what had caused the wound, and applied a 
 dressing to it, which he was made to understand was the 
 remedy we ourselves applied on similar occasions ; but he 
 and his companions instantly turned the whole into ridicule, 
 and at the same time taking some of the glass, they scar- 
 ified their legs and arms in a most cruel and extraordinary 
 manner, informing us that nothing of that kind could ever 
 hurt them.'"^ 
 
 The disastrous result of this first expedition did not deter 
 either Meares or his liberal employers from hazarding a 
 second voyage to the same coast, which was attended with 
 
 * Meare8*s Voyages, vol. I. Introductory Voyage, p, 66. 
 
MEARES S SECOND VOYAGE. 
 
 83 
 
 currant 
 
 getsible. 
 t«ed five 
 i)ile, but 
 :>d them, 
 co'iimon 
 3,^ ri'Jnd 
 ihey cut 
 I slit in 
 •ation in 
 irjTP quill 
 [\v I sin- 
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 from the 
 chro, in- 
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 ir canoes, 
 le, which 
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 the water 
 )wer part 
 } capacity 
 s remark- 
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 r rubbish, 
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 them, cut 
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 applied a 
 d was the 
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 o ridicule, 
 hey scar- 
 •aordinary 
 ould ever 
 
 not deter 
 Izarding a 
 Inded with 
 
 66. 
 
 rnore important roHiilts. The Felice, of 230 tons burden, 
 juid the I{)higeni:i, of 300, were fitted out on this adventure ; 
 the command bcinjjr j^iven to (Captains Mearos and Douglas. 
 Doth vessels were C()[)per-bottom«'d and strongly built, and 
 their crews consisted of Europeans and Chinese, among 
 whom were some excellent smiths, shipwrights, and other 
 artisans. The taking the Chinamen aboard was an experi- 
 ment. Before this time they had never formed part of the 
 crew of an Entjlish merchant-ship ; and it is but justice to 
 say that they proved hardy, good-humoured, and industrious. 
 Two other very interesting passengers were on board of 
 Captain Meares's ship, — Teanna, a prince of Atooi, one of 
 the Sandwich Isles, who had voluntefred to leave his native 
 country when Meares visited it during his fo f^r expedition; 
 and Comekala, a native of King George's id, who had 
 
 at the same time untreated to be carried to ( .na. Of these 
 two specimens of savage life Teanna was by far the finest, 
 both in moral and in physical qualities. He was about 
 thirty-two years old, near six feet five inches in stature, and 
 in strength almost Herculean. His carriage was dignified, 
 and, in con-^oquence of the respect paid to his superior rank 
 in his own country, possessed an air of distinction, to which 
 his familiarity with European manners had not communi- 
 cated any stiffness or embarrassment. Comekala, on the 
 other hand, though cunning and sagacious, was i. stranger 
 to the generous qualities which distinguished the prince of 
 the Sandwich Isles. He was kind and honest when it suited 
 his own interest ; but stole without scruple whatever he 
 wished to have and could not procure by fairer means. 
 Brass and copper were metals which he might almost be said 
 to worship. Copper halfpence, buttons, saucepans, — all 
 possessed in his eyes the highest charms. It was evident 
 that he coveted the brass buttons of the captain's uniform ; 
 and his mode of fixing his eyes on the object of his desire, 
 and the pangs of ungratified avarice, as exhibited in the 
 contortions of his countenance, proved matter of much 
 anmsement to the crew. The cause of his insatiable thirst 
 for copper became afterward apparent. 
 
 In the mean time Captain Meares found it necessary to 
 separate from his consort, whose slow sailing threatened to 
 impede his progress ; and afler a long and hazardous pas- 
 sage, the ship anchored in Friendly Cove in King George's 
 
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 84 
 
 KINO OEORGE^S SOUND. COMEKALA. 
 
 Sound, abreast of the village of Nootka, on the morning of 
 the 13th of May. Coraekala, who for several days had been 
 in a state of high excitation, now enjoyed the genuine de- 
 light of once more beholding his native shore ; and when 
 his intention of landing was made known, the whole inhab- 
 itants poured forth to give him welcome. The dress in 
 which he chose to appear for the first time afler so long an 
 absence was very extraordinary : on a former occasion, 
 when visited by Hannapa, a brother chief, he contented 
 himself with an ordinary European suit ; but he now, says 
 Meares, arrayed himself in all his glory : his scarlet coat 
 was decorated with such quantities of brass buttons and 
 copper appendages of one kind or other, that they could not 
 fail to procure him profound respect from his countrymen, 
 and render him an object of unbounded admiration to the 
 Nootka damsels. At least half a sheet of copper formed 
 his breastplate ; from his efirs copper ornaments were sus- 
 pended ; and he contrived to hang from his hair, which was 
 dressed with a long pig-tail, so many handles of copper 
 saucepans, that their weight kept his head in a stiff upright 
 position, which very much heightened the oddity of his ap- 
 pearance. For several of the ornaments with which he was 
 now so proudly decorated Comekala had lived in a state of 
 continual hostility with the cook, from whom he purloined 
 them ; but their last and principal struggle vvas for an enor- 
 mous spit, which the American prince had seized as a spear, 
 to swell the circumstances of that splendour with which he 
 was preparing to dazzle the eyes of his countrymen. In 
 such a state of accoutrement, and feeling greater delight 
 than ever was experienced on the proudest European throne, 
 the long-boat rowed Comekala ashore, when a general and 
 deafening shout from the crowd assured him of the universal 
 joy felt on his return. The whole inhabitants moved to the 
 beach, welcomed the traveller on shore, and afterward con- 
 ducted him to the king's house, which none but persons of 
 rank were permitted to enter, and where a magnificent feast 
 of whale blubber and oil was prepared. On the whole, 
 Comekala's reception, and the impression made by his ex- 
 traordinary costume, evinced his intimate knowledge of the 
 character of his countrymen ; for though to the English the 
 effect was irresistibly comic, the natives regarded him with 
 a mixture of silent awe and wonder, which after a while 
 
 
 T 
 
NOOTKA MUSIC. 
 
 85 
 
 broke forth into expressions of universal astonishment and 
 delight. 
 
 Not long after this exhibition, two ]\ootka princes, Ma- 
 quilla and Uallicum, paid a visit to the English. Their little 
 squadron, consisting of twelve canoes with eighteen men 
 each, moved with stately parade round the ship : the men 
 wore dresses of beautiful sea-otter skins, covering them 
 from head to heel ; their hair was powdered with the white 
 down of birds, and their faces bedaubed with red and black 
 ochre, in the form of a shark's jaw and a kind of spiral line, 
 which rendered their appearance extremely savage. Eight 
 rowers sat on each side, and a single man at the bow ; while 
 the chiefs, distinguished by a high cap, pointed at the crown 
 and ornamented with a small tuft of feathers, occupied a 
 place in the middle. All this was very striking *, but the 
 most remarkable accompaniment was the air which they 
 chanted, the effect of which is described by Meares as un- 
 commonly pleasing. " We listened," says he, " to their song 
 with an equal degree of surprise and pleasure. It was 
 indeed impossible for any ear susceptible of delight from 
 musical sounds, or any mind not insensible to the power of 
 melody, to remain unmoved by this solemn unexpected con- 
 cert. The chorus was in unison, and strictly correct as to 
 time and tune ; nor did a dissonant note escape them. 
 Sometimes they would make a sudden transition from the 
 high to the low tones, with such melancholy turns in their 
 variations, that we could not reconcile to ourselves the man- 
 ner in which they acquired or contrived this more than un- 
 taught melody of nature. There was also something for 
 the eye as well as the ear, and the action that accompanied 
 their voices added very much to the impression which the 
 chanting made upon us all. Every one beat time with un- 
 deviating regularity against the gunwale of the boat with 
 their paddles ; and at the end of every verse they pointed 
 with extended arms to the north and south, gradually sinking 
 their voices in such a solemn manner as to produce an effect 
 not often attained by the orchestras of European nations." 
 This account of the impressive music of the peoplo of Nootka 
 Sound is, the reader may remember, corroborated by Captain 
 Bumey.* The ceremony, however, did not end with the 
 
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 * Supra, p. 76. 
 
 H 
 
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 2 -I 
 
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 «W:.. 
 
86 
 
 HUNTING THE SEA-OTTER. 
 
 i. 
 
 ^jf 
 
 
 Bong ; but after rowing twice round the ship, rising up each 
 time as they passed the stern, and vociferating, " Wacush ! 
 Wacush !" (friends,) they brought their canoes alongside, 
 and the two chiefs came on board. Both were handsome 
 men, of the middle size, possessing a mild but manly expres- 
 sion of countenance. They accepted a present of copper, 
 iron, and other articles, with signs of great delight, and 
 throwing otf their sea-otter garments, laid them gracefully at 
 the feet of the English, and stood on the deck quite naked. 
 Each of them was presented with a blanket, which they 
 threw over their shoulders with marks of high satisfaction, 
 and descending into their canoes, were paddled to the shore. 
 A brisk trade in furs now commenced, which, though in- 
 terrupted occasionally by the petty thefts of the savages, 
 was highly favourable to the commercial interests of the ex- 
 pedition. Skins of the sea-otter, beaver, martin, sable, and 
 river-otter, of the ermine, black-fox, gray, white, and red 
 wolf, wolverine, marmot, racoon, bear, and mountain-sheep, 
 and in addition to all these, of the furred, speckled, and com- 
 mon seal, sea-cow, and sea-lion, were all procured, though 
 some in greater abundance than others. Of these by far 
 the most beautiful and valuable was the skin of the sea-otter. 
 The taking of this animal is attended with considerable 
 hazard ; but constant practice has taught the natives both 
 skill and courage. " When it is determined to hunt the 
 sea-otter," says Meares, " two very small canoes are pre- 
 pared, in each of which are seated two expert hunters. 
 The instruments they employ are bows and arrows, with a 
 small harpoon, which differs somewhat from the instrument 
 of the same kind used in hunting the whale, the shaft being 
 much the same ; but the harpoon itself of greater length, 
 and so notched and barbed that when it has once entered 
 the flesh it is almost impossible to extricate it. It is attached 
 to the shaft by several fathoms of sufficient strength to drag 
 the otter to the boat. The arrows employed are small, ana 
 pointed with bone formed into a single barb. Thus equipped 
 the hunters proceed among the rocks in search of their 
 prey. Sometimes they surprise the animal when sleeping 
 on his back on the surface of the water : and if they 
 can approach without waking him, which requires infinite 
 caution and skill, he is easily harpooned and dragged to the 
 boat, when a fierce battle often ensues between the otter and 
 
HUNTING THE WHALE. 
 
 87 
 
 r up each 
 A^acush ! 
 longside, 
 landsome 
 y expres- 
 f copper, 
 ight, and 
 cefully at 
 te naked, 
 lich they 
 tisfaction, 
 the shore, 
 lough in- 
 savages, 
 of the ex- 
 sable, and 
 , and red 
 lin-sheep, 
 , and com- 
 id, though 
 Bse by far 
 sea-otter, 
 nsiderable 
 tives both 
 hunt the 
 are pre- 
 hunters. 
 s, with a 
 istrument 
 lafl being 
 ir length, 
 ;e entered 
 attached 
 Ith to drag 
 ]mall, and 
 equipped 
 of their 
 sleeping 
 if they 
 Is infinite 
 ;ed to the 
 otter and 
 
 the hunters, who are frequently severely wounded by his 
 teeth and claws. The more usual manner of taking him, 
 however, is by pursuit, and the chase is sometimes continued 
 for hours. As the animal cannot remain long under water, 
 the skill is here chiefly exerted to direct the canoes in the 
 same line which the otter takes when under water, at which 
 time he swims with a celerity that greatly exceeds that of 
 his pursuers. The moment he dives, therefore, the canoes 
 separate in order to have the better chance of wounding him 
 with their arrows at the moment he rises, although it often 
 happens that this wary and cunning animal escapes, and 
 baffles the utmost skill of his persecutors. Should it happen 
 that the otters are overtaken with their young ones, the 
 instinct of parental affection comes out in its most deep 
 and interesting shape ; all sense of danger and of ^elf-pres- 
 ervation is instantly lost, and both male and femaie defend 
 their cubs with the most furious courage, tearing out with 
 their teeth the arrows and harpoons hxed in them, and often 
 attacking the canoes themselves. On such occasions, how- 
 ever, their utmost efforts are unavailing, and they and their 
 offspring never fail of yielding to the power of the hunters."* 
 The hunting the whale, however, is a still nobler sport ; 
 and nothing can exceed the skill and intrepidity with which 
 the Americans of Nootka engage in it. When it is deter- 
 mined to proceed against this mighty creature, the chief 
 prepares himself w ith great ceremony : he is clothed in the 
 sea-otter's skin, his body besmeared with oil and painted 
 with red ochre ; the canoes selected for the service are of a 
 size between those used in war and the ordinary kind, and 
 contain eighteen or twenty men, the bravest and most active 
 that can be found. When the whale is discovered, the chief 
 himself throws the first harpoon ; but all the people in the 
 various attendant canoes are armed with the same instru- 
 ment, to be employed as occasion may require. JlS soon as 
 the huge fish feels the smart of the lirst weapon, he dives, 
 and carries the shaft with all its bladders along with him ; 
 on which the boats follow in his wake, and as he rises con- 
 tinue to fix their weapons till he finds it impossible to sink 
 from the number of floating buoys attached to his body. 
 The whale then drowns, and is towed on shore with great 
 
 1 
 
 
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 * Meeur66,vol. ii.p. 56. 
 
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 88 
 
 NOOTKA MECHANICAL ARTS. 
 
 h 
 
 triumph and rejoicing.* He is immediately cut up, part 
 being dedicated to the feast which concludes the day, and 
 the remainder divided among those who shared the dangers 
 and glory of the chase. 
 
 The ingenuity of the Nootka savages in many mechanical 
 arts was very remarkable. Their manufacture of harpoons, 
 lines, fish-hooks, bows and arrows, their skill in tanning and 
 preparing furs, their ingenious manner of forging the metals 
 procured from the English into various ornaments for their 
 wives or favourites, and, above all, their art in constructing 
 canoes, astonished the European and Chinese artisans. Of 
 the iron received in exchange for furs they made tools ; and it 
 was seldom they could be prevailed on to use European 
 utensils in preference to their own, with the exception of the 
 saw, the utility of which in abridging labour was imme- 
 diately perceived and made available. They formed of the 
 same metal a species of tool for hollowir^ out large trees, 
 which purpose it served far better than any instrument the 
 carpenters of the Felice could give them. In this operation 
 a flat stone was employed in place of an anvil, while a round 
 one served for a hammer ; and with these rude implements 
 they shaped the red-hot iron into a tool resembling a cooper's 
 adze, which they fastened to a wooden handle with cords 
 made of sinews ; it was then sharpeuv^d, and proved admi- 
 rably adapted for the purposes for which it was intended.! 
 
 After the English had been for some time in King George's 
 Sound, the Americans began to make use of sails formed of 
 mats, in imitation of Captain Meares's ship. Hannapa got 
 the sailors to rig one of his war-canoes in the English styie» 
 of which he was extremely proud, never omitting the cere- 
 mony of hoisting his pendant whenever he approached, to 
 the great amusement of the crew. Not long after this the 
 English were waited upon by Wicananish, a prince of greater 
 wealth and power than any they had yet seen, who invited 
 them to visit his kingdom, which lay at some distance to the 
 southward, that a commercial intercourse might be estab- 
 lished for the advantage of both parties. The invitation 
 was accepted, and Wicananish himself met the Felice at 
 some distance from the shore with a small fleet of canoes ; 
 and, coming on board, piloted them into the harbour. They 
 
 *>* Meares, vol. ii. p. 92, 55. 
 
 t ZZfuf. p. 58. 5d. 
 
 t ■. 
 
 f 
 
PALACE OF WICANANISH. 
 
 89 
 
 jp, part 
 lay, and 
 dangers 
 
 ;hanical 
 irpoons, 
 ling and 
 e metals 
 for their 
 tructing 
 ns. Of 
 I ; and it 
 uropean 
 )n of the 
 J imme- 
 d of the 
 ge trees, 
 ment the 
 )peration 
 } a round 
 plements 
 . cooper's 
 th cords 
 ed admi- 
 
 nded.t 
 George's 
 )rmea of 
 apa got 
 ^sh style, 
 Ithe cere- 
 iched) to 
 this the 
 if greater 
 invited 
 ;e to the 
 le estab- 
 vitation 
 elice at 
 canoes ; 
 They 
 
 found the capital to be at least three times the size of Nootka. 
 The country round was covered with impenetrable woods of 
 great extent, in which were trees of enormoub size. After 
 the king and his chiefs had been entertained on board, the 
 English were in return invited to a feast by Wicananish ; 
 and it is not easy to conceive a more interesting picture of 
 savage life than is given by Meares on this occasion. " On 
 entering the house," says he, " we were absolutely aston- 
 ished at the vast area it enclosed. It contained a large 
 square, boarded up close on all sides to the height of twenty 
 feet, with planks of an uncommon breadth and length. 
 Three enormous trees, rudely carved and painted, formed 
 the rafters, which were supported at the ends and in the 
 middle by gigantic images, carved out of huge blocks of 
 timber. The same kind of broad planks covered the whole, 
 to keep out the rain ; but they were so placed as to be re- 
 movable at pleasure, either to receive the air and light or 
 to let out the smoke. In the middle of this spacious room 
 were several fires, and beside them large wooden vessels 
 filled with fish-soup. Large slices of whale's flesh lay in a 
 state of preparation, to be put into similar machines fdled 
 with water, into which the women, with a kind of tongs, 
 conveyed hot stones from very fierce fires, in order to make 
 it boil. Heaps of fish were strewed about ; and in this 
 central part of the square, which might properly be called 
 the kitchen, stood large seal-skins filled with oil, from 
 whence the guests were served with that delicious beverage. 
 The trees that supported the roof were of a size which would 
 render the mast of a first rate man-of-war diminutive on a 
 comparison with them ; indeed our curiosity as well as our 
 astonishment was at its utmost stretch when we considered 
 the strength which must have been required to raise these 
 enormous beams to their present elevation, and how such 
 strength could be commanded by a people wholly unac- 
 quainted, as we supposed, with the mechanic powers. The 
 door by which we entered this extraordinary fabric was the 
 mouth of one of these huge images, which, large as it may, 
 from this circumstance, be supposed to have been, was not 
 disproportioned to the other features of its colossal visage. 
 We ascended by a few steps on the outside ; and after passing 
 the portal, descended down the chin into the house, where 
 we found new matter for wonder in the number of men, 
 
 H2 
 
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 11 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 4 
 
00 
 
 FEAST GIVEN TO THE ENGLISH. 
 
 
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 women, and children who composed the family of the chief, 
 which consisted of at least 800 persons. These were di- 
 vided into groups according to their respective offices, which 
 had distinct places assigned them. The whole of the inte- 
 rior of the building was surrounded by a bench, about two 
 feet from the ground, on which the various inhabitants sat, 
 ate, and slept. The chief appeared at the upper end of the 
 room surrounded by natives of rank, on a small raised plat- 
 form, round which were placed several large chests, over 
 which hung bladders of oil, large slices of whale's flesh, and 
 proportionable gobbets of blubber. Festoons of human 
 sculls, arranged with some attention to uniformity, were 
 disposed in almost every part where they could be placed ; 
 and, however ghastly such ornaments appeared to European 
 eyes, they were evidently considered by the courtiers and 
 people of Wicananish as a very splendid and appropriate 
 decoration of the royal apartment." When the English 
 appeared the guests had made a considerable advance in 
 their banquet. Before each person was placed a large slice 
 of boiled whale, which, with small wooden dishes filled 
 with oil and fish-soup, and a muscle-shell instead of a spoon, 
 composed the economy of the table. The servants busily 
 replenished the dishes as they were emptied, and the women 
 picked and opened some bark, which served the purpose of 
 towels. The guests despatched their messes with aston- 
 ishing rapidity and voracity, and even the children, some 
 of them not above three years old, devoured the blubber 
 and oil with a rapacity worthy of their fathers. Wica- 
 nanish in the mean time did the honours with an air of hos- 
 pitable yet dignified courtesy which might have graced a 
 more cultivated society. 
 
 At the conclusion of the feast, it was intimated to the 
 English that the proper time had arrived to produce their 
 presents. Upon this a great variety of articles were dis- 
 played ; among which were several blankets and two cop- 
 per tea-kettles. On these last, considered to be almost in- 
 estimable, the eyes of the whole assembly were instantly 
 riveted ; and a guard was immediately mounted, who kept a 
 jealous watch*over them till curiosity was gratified ; after 
 which they were deposited in large chests rudely carved and 
 fancifully adorned with human teeth. About fifty men now 
 adyanced into the middle of the apartment, each holding up 
 
 %. -/_- 
 
BRISK TRADE IN FURS. 
 
 di 
 
 a sea-otter skin nearly six feet in length, and while they 
 remained in that position the prince delivered a speech^ 
 during which he gave his hand in token of friendship to the 
 captain, and informing him that these skins were the return 
 he proposed to make for the present he had just received, 
 concluded by ordering them to be immediately con 'ryed on 
 board. 
 
 The English now opened a brisk trade, procuring the 
 finest furs, while they were supplied with excellent pro- 
 visions : salmon, cod, halibut, rock-fish, and herrings were 
 brought to them fresh from the water ; and the women and 
 children sold them berries, '>vild onions, salads, and other 
 esculent plants. Wicananish, however, was anxious to 
 establish a rigid monopoly, and evinced the utmost jealousy 
 le^t any neighbouring princes should be admitted to trade 
 with the English. None were allowed to go on board 
 without his license ; and one unfortunate stranger was de- 
 tected without a passport, hurried into the woods, and, as 
 was strongly suspected, instantly put to death. At last two 
 chiefs, who had already entered into some transactions with 
 Captain Meares, remonstrated against such illiberality ; and 
 Wicananish, rather than go to war, concluded a treaty, 
 which had the effect of restoring a good understanding by 
 mutual sacrifices. Hanna and Detootche agreed to resign 
 to Wicananish all the otter skins in their possession, on 
 condition of receiving the two copper tea-kettles already 
 mentioned. These last articles, however ludicrous it may 
 appear in the eyes of European diplomatists, formed the 
 grand basis of the treaty, and the terms of exchange were 
 not arranged without much difficulty. During these pro- 
 ceedings the English had little opportunity to ex Tcne the 
 country ; but every thing which they saw was invitin^;. An 
 archipelago extended from King George's Sound to the har- 
 bour of Wicananish, most of the islands being co^'ered with 
 wood, with few clear spots. The soil was rich, producing 
 berries and fruits in abundance, and the timber of uncom- 
 mon size and beauty, consisting chiefly of red oak, large 
 cedar, black and white spruce-fir. In their expeditions into 
 the interior they met with frequent groves, where ahnost 
 every second tree was fit for masts of any dimensions.* 
 
 * Meares's Voyages, vol. 1. p. 239. 
 
 i 
 
 'III 
 
 J'. 
 
 M 
 
 u 
 
 ri 
 
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 !'j It! 
 
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92 
 
 STRAIT OF JUAN DE TV<^k, 
 
 t 
 
 J 
 
 
 From Wicananish Captain Meares sailed southward 
 along a coast not visited by Cook, of which the chart by 
 Maurelle was so inaccurate that it seemed almost certain 
 he had never surveyed it in person. During this voyage 
 they were visited by a small fleet of canoes, filled with 
 people far more savage than those hitherto met with. 
 The fHce of the chief was bedaubed with black ochre, and 
 powdered with a glittering sand, which communicated a 
 singular fierceness of expression ; while his manners were 
 rude, and gave no encouragement to any more intimate 
 intercourse. Meares continued his survey of the coast at 
 far north as latitude 49° 37' ; after which he retraced his 
 progress, and on reaching the Strait of Juan de Fu9a took 
 possession of it, with all the usual ceremonies, in the 
 name of the King of Great Britain. The existence of this 
 channel, which had been doubted since its discovery in 
 1592, was now. positively ascertained, and the long-boat 
 was despatched up the strait under the command of Mr. 
 Dufiin, first officer of the Felice. Her crew consisted of 
 thirteen sailors, well armed, and provisioned for a month. 
 In a week, however, they returned, — with their full com- 
 plement indeed, but every one of them wounded. They 
 had been attacked by the natives with a ferocity and deter- 
 mination which set at naught the usual terror of firearms. 
 The assailants used their bows and arrows, clubs, spearfs 
 stone-bludgeons, and slings, with great skill and courage. 
 The boat itself showed this, being pierced in numerous 
 places with the barbed arrows, many of which were still 
 sticking in the awning, which, by intercepting the heavy 
 showers of these missiles and breaking the fall of the large 
 stones discharged from the slings, was the principal means 
 of preserving the lives of the crew. 
 
 On returning down the strait, they were met by a canoe 
 paddled by two subjects of Wicananish, and after purchas- 
 ing some fish were about to bid them farewell, when the 
 savages made them aware that they still had another com- 
 modity to dispose of, and to their inexpressible horror 
 exhibited two human heads still dripping with blood. 
 " They held up these detestable objects by the hair," says 
 Meares, " with an air of triumph and exultation ; and when 
 the crew of the boat discovered signs of disgust and detest- 
 ation at so appalling a 8pectac)e» the savages, in a tone 
 
 k 
 
CANNIBALISM. 
 
 03 
 
 thward 
 hart by 
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 voyage 
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 cated a 
 srs were 
 intimate 
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 iced his 
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 a canoe 
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 ^hen the 
 
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 horror 
 
 blood. 
 
 ir," says 
 
 id when 
 detest- 
 a tone 
 
 and with looks of extreme satisfaction, informed them that 
 thoy were the heudu of two people belonj^ing to Tntootche, 
 the enemy uf their own king Wicunanish, whom they had 
 recently slain."* 
 
 This lust occurrence threw a gloom over the spirits of 
 the 8hip*s company, and caused them to maku more minute 
 inquiries into the habits of the savages, which brought to 
 light some very extraordinary circumstances. Mild and 
 amiable as were the general manners of the inhabitants of 
 Nootka Sound, it was discovered by their own confession 
 that they not only tortured captives with every refinement 
 of cruelty, but feasted on human flesh. Callicum, a chief 
 described by Meares as a model of kindness and even of 
 delicacy in his intercourse with the English, acknowledged 
 that he slept nightly on a pillow filled With human sculls, 
 which he oflen exhibited as trophies of his valour. Ma- 
 quilla betrayed his cannibal propensities in a manner still 
 more decided : " It so happened that the chief, in ascend- 
 ing the side of the ship, by some untoward accident received 
 a hurt in the leg. Orders were immediately given to the 
 surgeon to attend, and when he was about to apply a 
 plaster to the wound, Maquilla absolutely refused to submit, 
 but sucked himself the blood which freely flowed from it ; 
 and when we expressed our astonishment and disgust at 
 such conduct, he replied by licking his lips, patting his 
 belly, and exclaiming, ♦ Cloosh, cloosh,* or * Good, good !* 
 Nor did he now hesitate to confess that he ate human 
 flesh, and to express the delight he took in banqueting 
 upon his fellow-creatures ; not only avowing the practice, 
 but informing the crew, as they stood shuddering at the 
 story, that not long before this the ceremony of killing and 
 eating a slave had taken place at Friendly Cove."t This 
 acknowledgment was confirmed by Callicum and Hannapa, 
 who, protesting they had never tasted the smallest bit of 
 human flesh themselves, described Maquilla as peculiarly 
 fond of it, and in the practice of killing a slave once a 
 month to gratify his unnatural appetite. Perhaps there 
 might be some exaggeration in this ; but the ghastly orna- 
 ments of Wicananish's dining-room, the extraordinary 
 pillow of Callicum, the exposure of men's heads and limba 
 
 •r 
 
 I i> 
 
 t 
 
 '*■ 
 
 * Meares's Voyages, vol. i. p. 289. 
 
 t Ibid. vol. ii. p. 40. 
 
 
I • 
 
 / I f. 
 
 •*^^ 
 
 94 8TRAN0E TRADITIONS OF THE NATIVE8. 
 
 for sale, and the admission of the chief himself, sufficiently 
 prove the existence of this atrocious custom, whatever 
 miffht bo the extent to which it was curried. 
 
 For a long time the English thought the inhabitants had 
 no leligious belief whatever. To the huge misshapen 
 images seen in their houses they addressed no homage ; 
 they had neither priests nor temples, nor did they ofler any 
 sacrifices ; but an accidental circumstance led to the dis- 
 covery that, though devoid of all superstitious observances, 
 and wholly ignorant of the true God, they were not with- 
 out a certain species of mythology, including the belief of 
 an existence after death. " This discovery," says Meares, 
 " arose from our inquiries on a very different subject : 
 On expressing our wish to be infonned by what means 
 they became acquainted with copper, and why it was such 
 a peculiar object of their admiration, a son of Hannapa, 
 one of the Nootkan chiefs, a youth of uncommon sagacity, 
 informed us of all be knew on the subject ; and wc found, 
 to our surprise, that his story involved a little sketch of 
 their religion." When words were wanting he supplied 
 the deficiency by those expressive actions which nature or 
 necessity seems to communicate to people whose language 
 is imperfect ; and the young Nootkan ci>nveyed his ideas 
 by signs so skilfully as to render them perfectly intelligible. 
 He related his story in the following manner : — " He first 
 placed a certain number of sticks on the ground, at small 
 distances from each other, to which he gave separate names. 
 Thus, he called the first his father, and the next his grand- 
 father : he then took what remained and threw them all 
 into confusion together, as much as to say that they were 
 the general heap of his ancestors, whom he could not indi- 
 vidually reckon. He then, pointing to this bundle, said, 
 when they lived an old man entered the sound in a copper 
 canoe, with copper paddles, and every thing else in his 
 possession of the same metal ; that he paddled along the 
 shore, on which all the people were assembled to contem- 
 
 Elate so strange a sight, and that, having thrown one of 
 is copper paddles on shore, he himself landed. The ex- 
 traordinary stranger then told the natives that he came 
 from the sky, to which the boy pointed with his hand ; 
 that their country would one day be destroyed, when they 
 would all be killed, and rise again to live in the place from 
 
SPECULATIONS ON A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 09 
 
 whence he cnme. Our young interpreter exphiincd this 
 circumstance of his narrative by lying down as if he were 
 dead, and then, rising up suddenly, he imitated the action 
 as if he were soaring through the air. He continued to 
 inform us that the people killed the old man and took his 
 can»)e, from which event they derived their fondness for 
 copper, and he added that the images in their houses were 
 intended to represent the form, and perpetuate the mission, 
 of this supernatural person who came from the sky."* 
 
 As the objects of this voyage were principally of a com- 
 mercial nature. Captain Meares had better opportunities 
 to observe the character of the natives than to explore the 
 coast or the interior of the country. The range of his 
 navigation, extending only from Nootka Sound to the 
 latitude of 49° 37' north, disclosed no regular continuity 
 of land, but in every direction large islands, divided by 
 deep sounds and channels. The time which this intclli- 
 gejit seaman could spare was not enough to complete the 
 survey ; but, judging from what he did see, he was led to 
 the belief that the entire space from St. George's Sound to 
 Hudson's Bay and Davis's Strait, instead of a continent, 
 was occupied by an immense archipelago, through which 
 might reach a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic 
 Ocean. " The channels of this archipelago," says he, in 
 his memoir on the probable existence of a north-west 
 passage, " were found to be wide and capacious, w ith near 
 two hundred fathoms' depth of water, and huge promon- 
 tories stretching out into the sea, where whales and sea- 
 otters were seen in an incredible abundance. In some of 
 these channels there are islands of ice, which we may ven- 
 ture to say could never have been formed on the western 
 side of America, which possesses a mild and moderate 
 climate ; so that their existence cannot be reconciled to 
 any other idea than that they received their formation in 
 the eastern seas, and have been drifted by tides and cur- 
 rents through the passage for whose existence we are 
 contending."! 
 
 To determine thi* great question, and complete an accu- 
 rate survey of the north-west coast of America, Captain 
 Vancouver, an excellent officer, who had received his pro- 
 
 * Mearei's Voyages, vol. ii. p. 70, 71. t Itfid. vol. u. p. 242. 
 
 <^ 
 
 ) 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
rrr-^- 
 
 % 7 
 
 96 VOYAGES OP VANCOUVER AND KOTZEBUE. 
 
 fessional education under Cook, was despatched in 1790 ; 
 and, commencing his voyage at Cape Mendocino, in lati- 
 tude 41°, he sailed northward two hundred and nineteen 
 leagues to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, never losing sight 
 of the surf which dashed against the shore, taking once or 
 twice every day the meridional altitude, and minutely 
 noting the position of the most conspicuous points. The 
 whole coast presented an impenetrable barrier against 
 approach from the sea, and no opening was found to afford 
 his vessels the smallest shelter. He then explored the 
 Strait of Juan de Fu9a ; and having satisfied himself that 
 no passage across America was to be discovered there, 
 devoted his time to the survey of the labyrinth of islands, 
 sounds, and inletb between 50° and 60° of latitude. After 
 a series of patient and scientific observations every way 
 worthy of the school in which he had been bred, he ascer- 
 taired the grand fact that the coast was throughout con- 
 tinuous, and thus dispelled all hope of a north-west passage 
 in this quarter. It was his fate to encounter not a little 
 unreasonable skepticism when the result was made public ; 
 and, like many other travellers and navigators, he found 
 too much reason to complain of those lazy closet-philoso- 
 phers who refuse to admit any testimony which happens 
 to contradict their own preconceived theories. Time, how- 
 ever, has done him justice, and fully confirmed the accu- 
 racy of his report. 
 
 After the disastrous result of the expedition of Behring, 
 more than eighty years elapsed before Russia thought proper 
 to pursue the career of discovery on the extreme coasts of 
 North-western America. At length Count Romanzoff, a 
 scientific and patriotic nobleman, determined to despatch 
 lieutenant Kotzebue on a voyage to the straits which bear 
 the name of that great mariner. His equipment consisted 
 of a single vessel, the Rurick, one hundred tons burden, 
 with twenty-two sailors, a surgeon, and a botanist. Having 
 doubled Cape Horn, he arrived on the 1 9th June, 1816, at 
 Awatscha. Continuing his course, he passed the boundary 
 explored by Behring, and on the 1st of August descried on 
 his right, in latitude 68°, a broad opening which he trusted 
 would prove the long-sought-for passage. Having entered, 
 he landed on the beach, ascended a neighbouring hill, and 
 saw nothing but water as far as the eye could reach. Full 
 
 5*i. 
 
COLONIZATION OF CANADA. 
 
 97 
 
 of ardent expectation he employed a fortnight in examining 
 this sound, making a complete circuit of its shores. No 
 outlet, however, was discovered, except one, which it ap- 
 peared almost certain communicated with Norton Sound, 
 and Kotzebue resumed his voyage, which, however, was 
 attended with no new or important results. To this arm 
 of the sea, the discovery of which forms the principal fea- 
 ture in his enterprise, he has very properly communicated 
 his name. 
 
 With Kotzebue terminates our account of the progress 
 of discovery upon the north-western shores of America ; 
 for an outline of the sunrey made by Captain Beechey be- 
 longs to a future portion of this disquisition. It is a pleas- 
 ing reflection, that almost exclusively to the British navy 
 belongs the hard-earned praise of having explored nearly 
 the whole of this coast, with an accuracy which leaves 
 nothing to be desired by the most scientific navigator. 
 
 .f 
 
 r 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Hearne and Sir Alexander Mackenzie, 
 
 Colonization or Canada — French Fur-trade — Rise of Hudson's Bay 
 Company— Hearne's Tliree Journeys — North-west Fur Company — 
 First Journey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 1789— His Second £x- 
 peditioD in 1792. 
 
 Having completed a brief sketch of the progress of dis- 
 covery along the wide extent of the eastern and western 
 shores of North America, from the first expedition of Cabot 
 to the latest attempts of Kotzebue, two importarit subjects 
 present themselves, — the rise of the fur-trade, and the great 
 discoveries which were achieved by British subjects con- 
 nected with this branch of commercial enterprise. The 
 expedition of Cartier conferred on the French that title to 
 the countries round the St. Lawrence which results from 
 priority of discovery ; and other circumstances combined 
 to direct their efforts chiefly to the colonization of the more 
 northern tracts of America. Among these causes may be 
 
 I 
 
 M 
 
> 
 
 ' *#' 
 
 f '*' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 n\ 
 
 98 
 
 SI£UR DE LA ROCHE. 
 
 reckoned the disastrous failure of their attempt to establish 
 a settlement in Florida, the great power of the Spaniards 
 in that quarter, and the preoccupation of the middle regions 
 of the continent by the English. In 1598, the Sieur de la 
 Roche, a Breton gentleman of ancient family, obtained from 
 Henry IV. a patent, equally unlimited with that granted by 
 Elizabeth to Gilbert and Raleiu[h. He was nominated 
 lieutenant-general of Canada, Hochelaga, Newfoundland, 
 Labrador, and of the countries lying on the river of the 
 great Bay of Norimbega (meaning the St. Lawrence), and 
 the supreme command, both civil and military, was concen- 
 trated in his single person. His preparations were singularly 
 disproportionate to those high-sounding titles, and the whole 
 expedition was unfortunate. La Roche, with a small 
 squadron, and crews consisting principally of convicted 
 felons, landed on Sable Island, near the coast of Nova 
 Scotia. From this barren spot, ill adapted for a settlement, 
 he reached the opposite sliore, which he surveyed ; and 
 having intrusted the temporary command of the colony to 
 an inferior officer, he returned to France to procure ad- 
 ditional supplies. On arriving in Brittany, a dispute arose 
 between him and the Duke de Mercoeur, a nobleman enjoy- 
 ing the confidence of the French monarch, by whose in- 
 fluence the royal favour was wholly withdrawn from La 
 Roche. That adventurer, deprived of all means of prose- 
 cuting his enterprise in the New World, soon after died of 
 a broken heart. 
 
 Meantime the colony on Sable Island were exposed to 
 famine and disease, and totally neglected by the king, amid 
 the occupation and excitement of his vast political schemes. 
 Their existence was at length accidentally recalled to the 
 mind of Henry, who in deep remorse for his forgetfulness 
 despatched a vessel, which on its arrival found only twelve 
 survivors. They had formed a hovel of the planks of a 
 shipwrecked Spanish vessel, supported themselves by fish- 
 ing, and replaced their worn-out European garments with 
 the skins of the sea-wolf. On their return to France, the 
 monarch was greatly moved by the account of their suffer- 
 ings, corroborated as it was by their emaciated and haggarc 
 aspect, matted hair, beards which almost swept the ground, 
 and singular dress. He hastened to compensate for bis 
 
CHAUVIN AND PONTGRAVE — CHAMPLAIN. 99 
 
 neglect, by granting to such as were felons a free pardon, 
 and presenting to each a sum of fifty crowns.* 
 
 These disasters were followed soon after by an attempt 
 of Chauvin and Pontgrave, two fur-merchants, to establish 
 a colony at Tadoussack, on the mouth of the Saguenay, 
 which proved abortive, and gave place to an expedition on a 
 more enlarged scale, planned and conducted by De Monts, 
 a gentleman of Saintonge, whose squadron consisted of 
 forty vessels. His first settlement was on the Island of St. 
 Croix, from which he removed to Port Royal, now known 
 by the name of Annapolis, where he appears to have 
 abandoned his more pacific designs for the superior excitation 
 and profits of piracy. The complaints of the merchants 
 engaged in tlie Newfoundland fishery terminated in the re- 
 call and disgrace of De Monts ; but Champlain, on whom 
 the command devolved, showed himself every way worthy 
 of the trust. From Tadoussack he removed the principal 
 settlement to Quebec, where he built and fortified a town, 
 reduced the surrounding territory into cultivation, and be- 
 came the founder of the government of Canada, or New- 
 France. Leaving his infant settlement, he next determined 
 to penetrate into the interior ; and his emotions of wonder 
 and astonishment may be easily conceived, when, ascending 
 the St. Lawrence, the majestic forests of Canada first met 
 his eye, encircling in their bosom the greatest lakes known 
 to exist in the world. Surveying first the southern bank of 
 the river, and of the lakes Ontario and Erie, he found that 
 he had reached the very cradle of savage life, surrounded 
 by nations whose manners, occupations, and superstitions 
 were as new as they were bold and terrific. 
 
 To pursue the discoveries of the French into the interior 
 of North America does not properly fall within the limits 
 of this work ; and it is sufficient at present to observe, that 
 after a long and sanguinary struggle between thi. armies of 
 France and England, in the war which broke out in 1756, 
 Canada was at last subdued by the English, and the pos- 
 session of the province confirmed to Great Britain by the 
 treaty of 1763. During the war between the United States 
 and the mother country. Upper Canada once more became 
 the theatre of an obstinate contest, which concluded, how- 
 
 r 
 
 * Histoire G^n^ral dea Voyages, vol. ]Liv. p. 589, 591. 
 
P9 
 
 N 
 
 ■r 
 
 ^sTi 
 
 100 
 
 FRENCH FUR-TRADE. 
 
 m'l 
 
 ft 
 
 r ? 
 I, \ 
 
 n 
 
 1/ 
 
 1 
 
 ever, unfavouTably for the American troops ; and the country 
 has since remained an integral part of the British dominions. 
 Under the French the fur-trade, notwithstanding the re- 
 strictions with which commerce was oppressed, was carried 
 to a great height and embraced an immense extent of 
 country^ It was conducted by a set of hardy adventurers, 
 who joined the savages in their hunting-parties, and thus 
 collected large cargoes of furs with which they supplied the 
 merchants. Their distant inland expeditions sometimes 
 occupied twelve or even eighteen months ; and during this 
 period their uninterrupted familiarity with the natives al- 
 most transformed them into as wild and barbarous a con- 
 dition as that of the tribes with whom they associated. " It 
 requires less time," says Sir Alexander Mackenzie, " for a 
 civilized people to deviate into the manners and customs of 
 savage life, than for savages to rise into a state of civiliza- 
 tion. Such was the event with those who thus accompanied 
 the natives on their bunting and trading excursions ; for 
 they became so attached to the Indian mode of life, that 
 they lost all relish for their former habits and native homes. 
 Hence they derived the title of Coureurs de Bois, became a 
 kind of pedlars, and were extremely useful to the merchants 
 engaged in the fur-trade, who gave them the necessary credit 
 to proceed on their commercial undertakmgs. Three or 
 four of these people would join their stock, put their 
 property into a birch-bark canoe which they worked them- 
 selves, and would then either accompany the natives in their 
 excursions, or penetrate at once into the country. At 
 length these voyages extended to twelve or fifteen months, 
 when they returned with rich cargoes of furs, and followed 
 by great number of the natives. During the short time 
 requisite to settle their accounts with the merchants and 
 procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squander 
 away all their gains, when they returned to renew their 
 favourite mode of life, their views being answered and their 
 labour sufficiently rewarded by indulging themselves in ex- 
 travagance and dissipation during the short space of one 
 month in twelve or fifteen. This indiflference about amassing 
 property, and the pleasure of living free from all restraint, 
 soon brought on a licentiousness of manners which could 
 not long escape the vigilant observation of the missionaries, 
 who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace 
 
mntry 
 nions. 
 he re- 
 larried 
 nt of 
 Lurers, 
 d thus 
 iod the 
 etimes 
 ig this 
 ves al- 
 a con- 
 3. "It 
 "for a 
 oms of 
 iviliza- 
 ipanied 
 ns; for 
 fe, that 
 homes. 
 ;came a 
 irchants 
 py credit 
 hree or 
 it their 
 theni- 
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 |ry. At 
 ponths, 
 follow ed 
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 is in ex- 
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 naries, 
 isgrace 
 
 COURGURS DE BOIS — OROSSELIEZ. 
 
 101 
 
 to the Christian religion, by not only swerving from its 
 duties themselves, but bringing it ip*o disrepute with those 
 of the natives who had become converts to it, and conse- 
 quently obstructing the great object to which these pious 
 men had devoted their lives. They therefore exerted their 
 influence to procure the suppression of these people ; and 
 accordingly no one was allowed to go up the country to 
 traffic with the Indians without a license from the French 
 government."* This change of system was not at first 
 attended with the expected benefits ; for the licenses were 
 sold in moat instances to retired ofl[icers or their widows, 
 who again disposed of them to the fur-merchants, and they 
 of necessity recaUed to their service the coureurs de hois 
 as their agents : thus matters assumed, though by a some- 
 what more circuitous process, the same aspect as before. 
 At last military posts were established at the confluence of 
 the great lakes, which repressed the excesses of the wood- 
 runners, and afforded protection to the trade ; while under 
 this new system, a body of respectable men, usually re- 
 tired officers, introduced order and regularity in the traflSc 
 with the natives, co-operated with the efforts of the mission- 
 aries, and extended their intercourse with the various tribes 
 to the distance of two thousand five hundred miles, from 
 the most civilized portion of the colony to the banks of the 
 Saskatchewine river in 53° north latitude, and longitude 
 102° west.t Of these trading commanders two individuals 
 attempted to penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but appear to 
 have been unsuccessful. 
 
 The discoveries of the English in Hudson's Bay, and the 
 latest attempts of Fox and James to reach the Pacific 
 through some of its unexplored channels, have been suf- 
 ficiently enlarged upon in a former volume ;t but though 
 unsuccessful in their great design, the accounts brought 
 home regarding the rich furs of these extreme northern shores 
 excited the attention of Grosseliez, an enterprising individual, 
 who undertook a voyage to survey the country, and laid 
 before the French government a proposal for a commercial 
 
 * Sir Alexander Mackenzie's History or the Fur-trade, prefixed to his 
 Voyages, p. 1-3. 
 t Ibid. p. 6. 
 
 X Polar Seas and Regions, chap. vi. 
 
 12 
 
 f ! 
 
 n 
 
w 
 
 102 
 
 HUDSON*S BAY COMPANY. 
 
 \l 
 
 I : 
 
 If I. 
 
 eettlement upon the coast. The minister^ however, re* 
 jected it as visionary ; and Grosseliez, having obtained an 
 introduction to Mr. Montagu, the English resident at Paris, 
 was introduced to Prince Rupert, who, struck by the prob- 
 able advantages of the project, eagerly patronised it. By 
 his interest with the English king he obtained the grant of 
 a ship commanded by Captain Zachariah Gillam, who sailed 
 with Grosseliez in 1668, and penetrating to the top of 
 James's Bay, erected Fort Charles on the bark of the Rupert 
 River. In the succeeding year Prince Rupert, with seven- 
 teen other persons, were incorporated into a company, and 
 obtained an exclusive right to establish settlements and carry 
 on trade in Hudson's Bay. Their charter recites, that 
 those adventurers having at their own great cost undertaken 
 an expedition to Hudson's Bay, in order to discover a new 
 passage into the South Sea, and to find a trade for furs, 
 minerals, and other commodities, and having made such 
 discoveries as encouraged them to proceed in their design, 
 his majesty granted to them and their heirs, under the 
 name of " The Governor and Company of Adventurers 
 trading into Hudson's Bay," the power of holding and 
 alienating lands, and the sole right of trade in Hudson's 
 Strait, and with the territories upon the coasts of the same. 
 They were authorized to fit out ships of war, to erect forts, 
 make reprisals, and send home all English subjects entering 
 the bay without their license, and to declare war and make 
 peace with any prince or people not Christian.* 
 
 Instituted with such ample powers, and at first placed 
 under the management of enlightened men, this company 
 sooii arrived at considerable prosperity. They have, indeed, 
 been severely censured as exhibiting little zeal to promote 
 discovery, and for uniformly opposing every attempt on the 
 part of their servants to solve the long-agitated question of 
 a north-west passage. There appears to have been much 
 personal pique in these accusations ; and the expedition of 
 Knight, in 1721, fitted out on the most liberal scale at the 
 company's expense, and the tenor of their original instruc- 
 tions to their governor, certainly prove that they were not 
 enemies to the cause of discovery ; while the failure of the 
 
 * Macpherson's Anaals of Commerce, vol. ii. p, 555, 556. 
 
 i:^t: 
 
 ^ 
 
er, re- 
 ned an 
 t Paris, 
 le prob- 
 it. By 
 rrant of 
 LO Bailed 
 top of 
 I Rupert 
 I seven- 
 iny, and 
 nd carry 
 es, that 
 Jertaken 
 ;r a new 
 for furs, 
 ade such 
 r design, 
 nder the 
 venturers 
 ling and 
 Hudson's 
 he same, 
 ect forts, 
 entering 
 id make 
 
 5t placed 
 company 
 !, indeed, 
 promote 
 pt on the 
 [estion of 
 en much 
 [dition of 
 [e at the 
 instruc- 
 ere not 
 'e of the 
 
 i6. 
 
 HEARNE. 
 
 103 
 
 voyages of Middleton in 1742, and of Captains Moore and 
 Smith in 1746, must at length have convinced the bitterest 
 opponents of the company, that if they had not discovered 
 the long-expected passage in some of the straits leading 
 into Hudson's Bay, it was for the very sufficient reason that 
 such did not exist. But the most remarkable refutation of 
 these allegations is to be found in the important and inter- 
 esting journey of Hearne, from Prince of Wales' Fort to 
 the Northern Ocean, brought to a successful termination in 
 1772, which, in its origin and progress, merits our particular 
 attention. 
 
 The native Indians, who range over rather than inhabit 
 the large tract of country north of Churchill River, having 
 repeatedly brought specimens of copper ore to the com- 
 pany's factory, it was plausibly conjectured that these had 
 been found not far from the British settlements ; and as 
 the savages affirmed that the mines were not very distant 
 from a large river, it was imagined, most erroneously, as 
 was proved by the result, that this stream must empty 
 itself into Hudson's Bay. In 1768, the Indians who came 
 to trade at Prince of Wales' Fort brought further accounts 
 of this river, exhibiting at the same time s.\mples of copper, 
 which they affirmed to be the produce of a mine in its 
 vicinity. The governor now resolved to despatch an intel- 
 ligent person across the continent to obtain more precise 
 information. Samuel Hearne was chosen for this service, 
 a man of great hardihood and sagacity, bred in the employ- 
 ment of the company, and who, without pretensions to 
 high scientific attainments, possessed sufficient knowledge 
 to enable him to construct a chart of the country through 
 which he travelled. His instructions directed him to pro- 
 ceed to the borders of the country of the Athabasca Indians, 
 where it was expected he would meet with a river repre- 
 sented by the Indians to abound with copper or 3, and to 
 be so far to the north that in the middle of summer the 
 sun did not set. It was called by the natives Neetha-san- 
 san Dazey, or the Far-ofT Metal River ; and Mr. Hearne 
 was directed to explore its course to the mouth, where he 
 was to determine the latitude and longitude, to ascertain 
 whether it was navigable, and to judge of the practica- 
 bility of a settlement. He was enjoined also to examine 
 the mines alleged to exist in that district, the nature of the 
 
 II 
 
 
 Ml 
 'i 1 
 
"f 
 
 
 104 
 
 hearne's second journey : 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 soil and its productions, and to make every inquiry and 
 observation towards discoveriilg the north-west passage.* 
 
 On the 6th of November, 1 769, he set out from Prince of 
 Wales' Fort, Hudson's Bay, upon this perilous journey. 
 He was accompanied by two Englishmen only, — Ilbester 
 a sailor, and Merrinian, a landsman ; by two of the Home- 
 guard Southern Indians, — a name given to those natives 
 residing as servants on the company's plantation, and em- 
 ployed in hunting ; and by eight Northern Indians, under 
 the command of Captain Chuwchinahaw and Lieutenant 
 Nabyah. He was provided with ammunition for two years, 
 some necessary iron implements, a few knives, tobacco, 
 and other useful articles. As to his personal outfit, his 
 stock consisted simply of the shirt and clothes he wore, 
 one sp{\re coat, a pair of drawers, as much cloth as would 
 make two or three pairs of Indian stockings, and a blanket 
 for his bed. " The nature of travelling long journeys," he 
 observes, " in these countries will not admit of carrying 
 even the most common article of clothing ; so that the 
 traveller is obliged to depend on the district he traverses 
 for his dress as well as his sustenance." The baseness 
 and treachery of the Indians, however, soon put a period 
 to the first journey, and the desertion of Chawchinahaw 
 with his whole escort rendered it absolutely necessary for 
 the little party to make the best of their way back to the 
 fort, where they arrived on the 8th of December, after 
 penetrating only two hundred miles into the interior. 
 
 It was now determined to resume the expedition with 
 greater precautions against failure. The Indian women 
 who accompanied their husbands in the first journey were 
 left behind, as were the two Englishmen, who had been of 
 little service ; and instead of the treacherous Chawchina- 
 haw, Hearne selected an Indian named Connequeesee, 
 who affirmed he was acquainted with the country, having 
 once been near the river, the discovery of which formed 
 one great object of the journey. Attended by this man, 
 along with three Northern Indians and two of the Home- 
 gui^rd natives, the traveller once more set out, on the 23d 
 February, while the snow was so deep on the top of the 
 ramparts of the fort that few of the cannon could be seen. 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, Introduction, p. 40. 
 
HIS SEVERE SUFFERINttS. 
 
 105 
 
 ry and 
 
 ige.* 
 
 ince of 
 
 oumey. 
 
 Ibester 
 Home- 
 natives 
 
 md em- 
 
 3, under 
 
 iutenant 
 
 JO years, 
 
 tobacco, 
 
 utfit, his 
 
 lie wore, 
 
 18 would 
 
 I blanket 
 
 eys," he 
 carrying 
 that the 
 
 traverses 
 baseness 
 a period 
 
 chinahaw 
 
 jssary for 
 I to the 
 )er, after 
 or. 
 
 tion with 
 women 
 •ney were 
 d been of 
 lawchina- 
 equeesee, 
 y, having 
 h formed 
 ;his man, 
 le Home- 
 the 23d 
 ip of the 
 be seen. 
 
 Afler undergoing the severest extremities from hunger and 
 fatigue, Mr. Hearne reached in August the river Doobaunt, 
 in latitude 63° 10' north. The progress thus far, however, 
 had been painful beyond measure, owing to the difficulty 
 of pushing forward through a wild unexplored country, 
 intersected with rivers, lakes, and woods, at the outset 
 thickly covered with snow ; and on the approach of the 
 warmer months so flooded and marshy as to render trav- 
 elling on foot inexpressibly fatiguing. To add to this, the 
 voracity, improvidence, and indolence of the Indians sub- 
 jected the party to repeated distress. If from fishing or 
 hunting a larger supply than usual was procured, instead 
 of using it with moderation, and laying up a store for 
 future necessities, all was devoured by the savages, who, 
 like the boa after he has gorged his prey, coiled them- 
 selves up, and remained in a state of sleepy torpor till the 
 call of hunger again roused them to activity. 
 
 At first the party subsisted without difficulty on the fish 
 which abounded in the lakes and rivers ; but in the begin- 
 ning of April they entirely disappeared ; and as the " goose 
 season," or period when the geese, swans, ducks, and other 
 migratory birds resort to these latitudes was yet distant, 
 they began to suffer grievously from want of provisions. 
 Occasionalljr they were relieved by killing a few deer or 
 musk-oxen ; but the ground and the brushwood were so 
 saturated with moisture from the melting of the snow, that 
 to kindle a fire was impossible ; with their clothes drenched 
 in rain, and their spirits depressed, they were compelled to 
 eat their meat raw, — a necessity grievous at all times, but 
 in the case of the flesh of the musk-ox, which is rank, 
 tough, and strongly impregnated with the sickening sub- 
 stance from which it derives its name, peculiarly repulsive 
 and unwholesome.* 
 
 The simple and modest manner in which these severe 
 sufferings are described by Hearne is peculiarly striking. 
 "To record," says he, "in detail each day's fare since the 
 commencement of this journey would be little more than a 
 dull repetition of the same occurrences. A sufficient idea 
 of it may be given in a few words, by observing, that it 
 may justly be said to have been either ail feasting or all 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 31. 
 
 i 
 
N 
 
 106 
 
 CATIIAWHACHAGA. 
 
 famine ; sometimes we had too much, seldom just enough, 
 frequently too little, and oflen none at all. It will be only 
 necessary o say, that we fasted many times two whole 
 days and lights, twice upwards of three days, and once, 
 while at Shenanhce, near seven days, during which we 
 tasted not a mouthful of any thing, except a few cran- 
 berries, water, scraps of old leather, and burnt bones." 
 On these pressing occasions Hearno oflen saw the Indians 
 examine their wardrobe, which consisted chiefly of skin 
 clothing, considering attentively what part could best be 
 spared, when sometimes a piece of half-rotten deer-skin, 
 and at others a pair of old shoes, would be sacrificed to 
 alleviate extreme hunger. "None of our natural wants," 
 he observes, " if we except thirst, are so distressing or 
 hard to endure as hunger, and in wandering situations Uke 
 that which I now experienced, the hardship is greatly 
 aggravated by the uncertainty with regard to its duration, 
 and the means most proper to be used to remove it, as well 
 as by the labour and fatigue we must necessarily undergo 
 for that purpose, and the disappointments which too fre- 
 quently frustrated our best-concerted plans and most 
 strenuous exertions. It not only enfeebles the body, but 
 depresses the spirits, in spite of every effort to prevent it. 
 Besides which, for want of action, the stomach so far loses 
 its digestive powers, that, after lonw fasting, it resumes its 
 office with pain and reluctance. During this journey I 
 have too frequently experienced the dreadful effects of this 
 calamity, and more than once been reduced to so low a 
 state by hunger and fatigue, that when Providence threw 
 any thing in my way, my stomach has been scarcely able 
 to retain more than two or three ounces without producing 
 the most oppressive pain."* 
 
 On the 30th June, they arrived at a small river called 
 Cathawhachaga, which empties itself into White Snow 
 Lake, in 64° north latitude. Here, as the guide declared 
 they could not that summer reach the Coppermine Rivei, 
 Hcarne determined to pass the winter, with the intention 
 of pushing on to his destination in 1771. They accord- 
 ingly forsook their northward route, and taking a westerly 
 course were joined in a few days by many troops of wan* 
 
 * Kearny's Journey, p. 33. 
 
RETURN FROM CATIIAWHACnAOA. 
 
 107 
 
 enough) 
 be only 
 
 whole 
 1(1 once, 
 hich we 
 w cran- 
 
 bones." 
 Indians 
 of skin 
 best be 
 leer-skin, 
 rificed to 
 
 1 wants," 
 jssing or 
 tions like 
 s greatly 
 duration, 
 it, as well 
 J undergo 
 1 too fre- 
 md most 
 body* but 
 prevent it. 
 
 far loses 
 isumes its 
 journey I 
 ;ts of this 
 
 so low a 
 ]ce threw 
 jrcely able 
 [producing 
 
 dering Indians ; so that by the 30th July thoy mustered 
 about seventy tents, containing nearly six hundred souls, 
 and on moving in the morning the whole ground seemed 
 alive with men, women, children, and dogs. The deer 
 were so plenty that, though lately five or six individuals 
 had almost perished from hunger, this numerous body sup- 
 ported themselves with great ease, an<l often killed their 
 game for the skins, leaving the carcass to be devoured by 
 the foxes.* In this manner, engaged alternately in hunt- 
 ing and fishing, making observations on the country, and 
 studying the extraordinary manners of his associates, the 
 English traveller was preparing for his winter sojourn, 
 when an accident rendered his quadrant useless, and com- 
 pelled him, on 13th August, to set out on his return to tho 
 fort. 
 
 The hardships he endured on his route homeward were 
 various and accumulated. He was plundered by the north- 
 ern Indians, who, adding insult to injury, entered his tent, 
 smoked a pipe which they filled with tho white man*s 
 tobacco, asked to see his luggage, and without waiting for 
 an answer turned the bag inside out, and spread every 
 article on the ground. The work of appropriation was 
 equally rapid, and the empty bag was flung to the owner ; 
 but a fit of compunction seizing them, they restored a knife, 
 an awl, and a needle. On begging hard for his razors, 
 they consented to give up one, and added enough of soap 
 to shave him during the remainder of his journey, making 
 him understand that the surrender of these articles called 
 for his warmest gratitude. 
 
 As the cold weather approached, the party thus plun- 
 dered suffered grievously from want of that warm deer- 
 skin clothing used by the Indians at this season. A dress 
 of this kind is rather costly, requiring the prime parts of 
 from eight to eleven skins. These Hearne at last nianaged 
 to collect ; but as the Indian women alone could prepare 
 them, he was compelled to carry this load along with him 
 from day to day, earnestly begging the natives at each suc- 
 cessive resting-place to permit their wives to dress his 
 skins. He met, however, with a surly and uniform refusal ; 
 and at last, after bearing the burden for several weeks, was 
 
 * Hefirnc's Journey, p. 40. 
 
 -*. 
 
 I 
 
108 
 
 MATONAnBEE*S ADVICE. 
 
 i 
 
 ■I 
 
 k. ■!5 
 
 forced to throw it ofT, nnd Buetain thr cold ns he hest eonld, 
 without either skin-clothing or snow-shoes. When, con- 
 tinuing their course in this forlorn condition to the south- 
 east, they met with Captain Matonal)l)ee, a powerful and 
 intelligent chief, who was then on his way to Prince of 
 lYales' Fort with furs and other articles of trade. It was 
 this person who brought the accountH of the Coppermine 
 River, which induced the company to fit out the expe<lition, 
 and he was naturally interested in its success. He evinced 
 the utmost activity in relieving their wants, furnished them 
 with a warm suit of otter and other skins, and, not being 
 able to provide them with snow-shoes, directed them to a 
 small range of woods, where they found materials for both 
 shoes and sledges. Matonabbee then treated the party to 
 a feast, and took occasion in his conversation with Hcarne 
 to explain the causes of his failure, and to offer his assist- 
 ance in a third expedition. He attributed all their misfor- 
 tunes to the misconduct of the guide, and to their having 
 no women with them. " In an expedition of this kind," 
 said he, " when all the men are so heavily laden that they 
 can neither hunt nor travel to any considerable distance, in 
 case they meet with success in hunting, who is to carry 
 the produce of their labour 1 Women were made for 
 labour ; one of them can carry or haul as much as two men 
 can do. They also pitch our tents, make and mend our 
 clothing, keep us warm at night ; and in fact there is no 
 such thing as travelling any considerable distance, or for 
 any length of time, in this country, without them ; and yet, 
 though they do every thing, they are maintained at a 
 trifling expense ; for, as they always act the cook, the very 
 licking of their fingers in scarce times is sufficient for their 
 subsistence."* Assisted by this friendly chief, the Eng- 
 lish traveller again set forward, and after experiencing an 
 intense degree of cold, by which the favourite dog in his 
 sledge was frozen to death, he reached the fort on 25th 
 November, having been absent eight months and twenty- 
 two days. Matonabbee arrived a few days after. 
 
 Though twice compelled to return, Hearne, whose spirit 
 was not to be overcome by fatigue or disappointment, of- 
 fered his services to proceed on a third journey, which was 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 55. 
 
IIEARNE^S THIRD JOURNEY. 
 
 109 
 
 ultimately crowned witii success. For this he engaged 
 Matonabbee as guide, and declined taking any Homc-guard 
 Indians. Their place, however, was occupied, according to 
 the principles already laid down, by seven of Matonabbee's 
 wives, who, by the assistance they ntforded, did no dispar- 
 agement to the singular |/ii'ture ot tcniule activity which he 
 had drawn. They set out on the 7th of December, and 
 notwithstanding frequent privations, want of food, and in- 
 tense cold, their sufferings were not so aggravated as in the 
 former attempts. The country through which they passed 
 towards the west was wild and barren, occasionally covered 
 with thick shrubby woods of stunted pine and dwarf juniper, 
 studded with frequent lakes and swamps, whose sides were 
 fringed with willows. Through this ground they travelled 
 in high spirits, but on rather short commons, owing to the 
 scarcity of deer, and the improvidence of the Indians, who 
 consumed every thing in the store during the first days of 
 their march, trusting to find a stock of provisions which 
 they had hid in a certain spot on their way to the fort. On 
 reaching the place, however, they discovered that the pro- 
 visions had been carried off; and the equanimity with which 
 the Indians bore the disappointment, and travelled forward 
 under the conjoined miseries of hunger and fatigue, was 
 very striking. At last they succeeded in killing a few deer, 
 and halted to take some refreshment. For a whole day they 
 never ceased eating, and an additional repast on two large 
 buck-deer, which they killed a few days after, at last fairly 
 overcame Captain Matonabbee, who, after devouring at one 
 sitting as much as would have satisfied six moderate men, 
 seemed soinewhat unreasonably astonished to find himself 
 indisposed. 
 
 Having recovered from the effects of this surfeit, they 
 proceeded from Island Lake towards the main branch of the 
 Cathawhachaga, which they crossed, and directing their 
 course by Partridge Lake and Snow Bird Lake, arrived oa 
 the 2d March at a large tent of Northern Indians, not far 
 from the Doobaunt Whoie River. Although these people 
 had remained in the same spot since the beginning of win- 
 ter, they found a plentiful subsistence by catching deer in a 
 pound. Their mode of accomplishing this is to select a 
 well-frequented deer-path, and enclose with a strong fence 
 of twisted trees and brushwood a space about a mile in oir- 
 
 K 
 
 * 
 
T 
 
 no 
 
 V CATCHING DEER IN A POUND. 
 
 ^: 
 
 cumference, and sometimes more. The entrance of thepcunel 
 is not larger than a common gate, and its inside is crowded 
 with innumerable small hedges, in the openings of which 
 are fixed snares of strong well-twisted thongs. One end i« 
 generally fastened to a growing tree ; and as all the wood 
 and jungle within the enclosure is left standing, its interior 
 forms a complete labyrinth. On each side of the door, a 
 line of small trees, stuck up in the snow fifteen or twenty 
 yards apart, form two sides of an acute angle, widening 
 gradually from the entrance, from which they sometimes 
 extend two or three miles. Between these rows of brush- 
 wood runs the path frequented by the deer. When all things 
 are prepared, the Indians take their station on some emi- 
 nence commanding a prospect of this path, and the moment 
 any deer are seen going that way, the whole encampment, 
 men, women, and children, steal under cover of the woods 
 till they get behind them. They then show themselves in 
 the open ground, and, drawing up in the form of a cres- 
 cent, advance with shouts. The deer, finding themselves 
 pursued, and at the same time imagining the rows of brushy 
 poles to be people stationed to prevent their passing on either 
 side, run straight forward till they get into the pound. The 
 Indians instantly close in, block up the entrance, and while 
 the women and children run round the outside to prevent 
 them from breaking or leaping the fence, the men enter 
 with their spears and bows, and speedily despatch such as 
 are caught in the snares or are running loose.* 
 
 On the 8th of April, they reached an island in a small 
 lake named Thelewey-aza-weth, and pitched their tent ; and 
 as the deer were numerous, and the party, which had been 
 joined by various wandering Indians, now amounted to sev- 
 enty persons, they determined to remain for some time, and 
 make preparations for their enterprise in the ensuing sum- 
 mer. They were busily employed during their intervals 
 from hunting, in providing staves of birch about one and a 
 quarter inch square and seven or eight feet long, which 
 served for tent-poles all the summer, and were converted 
 into snow-shoes in winter. Birch-rind, with timbers and 
 other wood for canoes, formed also objects of attention ; 
 and as Clowey, the place fixed upon for building their ca- 
 
 
 ^. 
 
 * Heame's Journey, p. 7&-80. 
 
NORTHERN INDIAN WOMEN. 
 
 HI 
 
 lepcund 
 crowded 
 >f which 
 le end ia 
 he wood 
 I interior 
 s door, a 
 r twenty 
 widening 
 •metimes 
 f brush- 
 ill things 
 me emi- 
 moment 
 mpment, 
 16 woods 
 selves in 
 f a cres- 
 emselves 
 >f brushy 
 on either 
 id. The 
 md while 
 ) prevent 
 en enter 
 such as 
 
 a small 
 !nt ; and 
 lad been 
 d to sev- 
 ime, and 
 ing sum- 
 intervals 
 ne and a 
 g, which 
 onverted 
 )ers and 
 tention ; 
 their ca- 
 
 
 noes, was still many miles distant, all the wood was reduced 
 to its proper size to make it light for carriage. At this 
 place Matonabbee solaced himself by purchasing from some 
 Northern Indians another wife, who for size and sinews 
 might have shamed a grenadier. " Take them in a body," 
 says Heame, ** and the Indian women are as destitute of 
 real beauty as those of any nation I ever saw, although 
 there are some few of them when young who are tolerable ; 
 but the care of a family, added to their constant hard labour, 
 soon make the most beautiful among them look old and 
 wrinkled, even before they are thirty, and several of the 
 more ordinary ones at that age are perfect antidotes to the 
 tender passion. Ask a Northern Indian What is beauty ] 
 he will answer, A broad flat face, small eyes, high cheek- 
 bones, three or four broad black lines across each cheek, a 
 low forehead, a large broad chin, a hook nose, and a tawny 
 hide. These beauties are greatly heightened, or at least 
 rendered more valuable, if the possessor is capable of dress- 
 ing all kinds of skins, and able to carry eight or ten stone 
 in summer, and to haul a far greater weight in winter. 
 Such and similar accomplishments are all that are sought 
 afler or expected in an Indian Northern woman. As to 
 their temper, it is of little consequence ; for the men have 
 a wonderful facility in making the most stubborn comply 
 with as much alacrity as could be expected from those of 
 the mildest and most obliging turn of mind."* 
 
 Before starting from this station, Matonabbee took the 
 precaution of sending in advance a small party with the 
 wood and birch-rind ; they were directed to press forward 
 to Clowey, a lake near the barren ground, and there build 
 the boat, to be ready upon their arrival. When the jour- 
 ney was about to be resumed, one of the women was taken 
 in labour. The moment the poor creature was delivered, 
 " which," says Hearne, " was not till she had suffered a 
 severe labour of fifty-two hours," the signal was made for 
 setting forward ; the mother took her infant on her back, 
 and walked with the rest ; and though another person had 
 the humanity to haul her sledge for one day only, she was 
 obliged to carry a considerable load in addition to her little 
 one, and was compelled frequently to wade knee-deep in 
 
 *? 
 
 * Ifearne's Journey, p. 89, 90, 
 
 .* 
 
112 
 
 ARRIVAL AT CLOWEY. 
 
 H 
 
 A 
 
 water and wet snow. Amid all this, her looks, pale and 
 emaciated, and the moans which burst from her, sufficiently 
 proved the intolerable pain she endured, but produced no 
 effect upon the hard hearts of her husband and his com- 
 panions. When an Indian woman is taken in labour, a 
 small tent is erected for her, at such a distance from the 
 encampment that her cries cannot be heard, and the other 
 women are her attendants, no male except children in arms 
 ever offering to approach ; and even in the most critical 
 cases no assistance is ever given, — a conduct arising from 
 the opinion that nature is sufficient to perform all that is 
 necessary. When Hearne informed them of the assistance 
 derived by European women from the skill and attention of 
 regular practitioners, their answer was ironical and charac- 
 teristic. " No doubt," said they, " the many hump-backs, 
 bandy-legs, and other deformities so common among you 
 EngUsh are owing to the great skill of the persons who 
 assisted in bringing them into the world, and to the extra- 
 ordinary care of their nurses afterward."* 
 
 In eleven days they travelled a distance of eighty-five 
 miles, and on the 3d May arrived at Clowey, where they 
 were joined by some strange Indians, and commenced the 
 important business of building their canoes. The party 
 sent ahead for this purpose arrived only two days before, 
 and had made no progress in joining the timbers they had 
 carried along with them. The whole tools used by an 
 Indian in this operation, in making snow-shoes and all other 
 kinds of wood-work, are a hatchet, a knife, a file, and an 
 awl ; but in the use of these they are very dexterous. In 
 shape, their canoes bear some resemblance to a weaver's 
 shuttle, having fiat bottoms, with straight upright sides, and 
 sharp at each end. The stern is the widest part, being 
 constructed for the reception of the baggage ; and occasion- 
 ally it admits a second person, who lies at full length in 
 the bottom of the little vessel, which seldom exceeds twelve 
 or thirteen feet in length, and about twenty inches or two 
 feet in breadth at the widest part. The forepart is unneces- 
 sarily long and narrow, and covered with birch-bark, which 
 adds to the weight without contributing to the burden of 
 the canoe. The Indians, for the most part, employ a single 
 
 * Heame's Journey, p. 93. 
 
 ^ 
 
JOINED BY MANY INDIANS. 
 
 113 
 
 paddle ; double ones, like those of the Esquimaux, are sel- 
 dom used unless by hunters, who lie in ambush for the pur- 
 pose of killing deer as they cross rivers and narrow lakes. 
 Upon the whole, their vessels, though formed of the same 
 materials as those of the Southern Indians, are much smaller 
 and lighter ; and, from the extreme simplicity of build, axe 
 the best that could be contrived for the necessities of these 
 poor savages, who are frequently obliged to carry them upon 
 their back 100 and sometimes 150 miles, without having 
 occasion to launch them. 
 
 At Clowey the expedition was joined by nearly 200 
 Indians from various quarters, most of whom built canoes 
 there ; and on the 23d May, Mr. Hearne and Matonabbee, 
 whose character and consequence effectually protected the 
 white man from plunder, proceeded northward. For some 
 time they met with no distresses, except those occasioned 
 by the intense cold, which had been preceded by thunder- 
 storms and torrents of rain. Misfortune, however, now at- 
 tacked Matonabbee on the tender side of his eight wives, 
 the handsomest of whom eloped in the night, accompanied 
 by another woman. Both having been carried off by force, 
 it was suspected they had fled to the eastward with the plan 
 of rejoining their former husbands. Scarce had the savage 
 polygamist recovered from this blow, when he experienced 
 a fresh mortification : an Indian of great strength, from 
 whom Matonabbee a short time before had purchased a stout, 
 and therefore valuable, wife, insisted on taking her back, 
 unless he instantly surrendered a certain quantity of ammuni- 
 tion, a kettle, some pieces of iron, and other articles. The 
 hardship of this case arose from an extraordinary custom, 
 by which the men are permitted to wrestle for any woman 
 to whom they are attached, the victorious party carrying off 
 the prize. It is for this reason that the greatest emulation 
 prevails in all a'hletic exercises among the young Indians ; 
 and the children are perpetually seen trying their powers in 
 wrestling, under the idea that this is the education which will 
 chiefly benefit them when they grow up. A weak man sel- 
 dom long retains a wife whose services another wants ; for. 
 when the helpmates of an able-bodied savage are too heavily 
 laden with furs or provisions, he makes no scruple of sei^iing 
 the spouse of his weaker neighbour, and transferring part 
 of the burden to her back ; while, if the injured party can- 
 
 iv 2 
 
;M 
 
 f* 1 
 
 114 
 
 • # ^^ 
 
 MATONABBEES PRIDE. 
 
 not challenge the aggressor to a wrestling-match, he must 
 not otherwise complain. The distress, therefore, of Maton- 
 abbee upon this occasion may be easily accounted for, as he 
 was wounded in his pride and in his property, if not in his 
 affections. But a personal contest was out of the question, 
 and he was obliged to purchase his favourite over again, by 
 yielding up all that was demanded by his antagonist. This 
 affair had nearly proved a serious obstacle to the expedition ; 
 for so bitterly did the chief resent the affront, entertaining 
 the highest ideas of his personal consequence, that he had 
 resolved, like a Coriolanus of the New World, to renounce 
 all further alliance with his countrymen, and join the Atha- 
 basca Indians, among whom he had formerly resided. But 
 Heame strenuously opposed this project, and at last suc- 
 ceeded in dissuading him from it.* 
 
 Having agreed to proceed, Matonabbee, for the better 
 prosecution of the enterprise, determined to make some new 
 arrangements : he selected his two youngest wives, who 
 were unencumbered with children, as alone worthy to ac- 
 company him, while the remainder, with all their luggage 
 and a considerable number of the men, were commanded to 
 await the return of the party from the Coppermine River. 
 This change of plan, howeverj was not carried through 
 without difficulty. When the hour of separation came, and 
 Matonabbee and Hearne set out in the evening of 31st May, 
 a low murmur of lamentation proceeded from the tents of 
 the women who were left behind, which, running through 
 all the notes of increasing grief, at last burst into a loud 
 yell. This continued as long as the party were in sight ; 
 nor was it without much angry expostulation that some of 
 them were prevented from following their husbands. The 
 Indians, however, regarded all this, which deeply affected 
 their European associate, with indifference, walking forward 
 without Cft^Jting behind them a single look or word of sym- 
 pathy, and joy Ailly congratulating themselves on getting rid 
 of the women, dogs, children, and other encumbrances, 
 which added so greatly to the toil of the journey. One ar- 
 ticle they all carried, although to Hearne it appeared un- 
 necessary, considering the expedition to be pacific, — this was 
 a target of thin boards two feet broad and about three feet 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. Ill, 112. 
 
'*t 
 
 i^ 
 
 COPPER INDIANS. 
 
 115 
 
 le must 
 Maton- 
 r, as he 
 >t in his 
 iiestioii) 
 ;ain, by 
 . This 
 3dition ; 
 rtaining 
 he had 
 snounce 
 le Atha- 
 (1. But 
 ast suc- 
 
 e better 
 >me new 
 res, who 
 ly to ac- 
 luggage 
 anded to 
 e River, 
 through 
 ime, and 
 1st May, 
 ents of 
 irough 
 a loud 
 sight ; 
 some of 
 The 
 affected 
 brward 
 of sym- 
 tting rid 
 brances, 
 3ne ar- 
 red un- 
 this was 
 ree feet 
 
 ,; 
 
 
 long. On inquiring for what purpose these shields were to 
 be used, he discovered that the main consideration which 
 reconciled the Indians to this expedition was the hope of 
 attacking and murdering the Esquimaux who frequented the 
 Coppermine River, between whom and the other Indian 
 tribes there had long existed a deadly enmity. All the argu- 
 ments employed by Hearne were insufficient to dissuade 
 them from these hostile intentions. 
 
 The party, having crossed the arctic circle, arrived at Co- 
 gead Lake, which they found frozen over ; so that they 
 traversed its creeks and bays without the aid of their canoes. 
 Thence they directed their course due north till they met 
 with a branch of the Congecathawhachaga River, where 
 some Copper Indians received them with great kindness, 
 and readily sent all their canoes to their assistance, — a 
 piece of courtesy particularly seasonable, as the ice had 
 now broken up. To these Indians Hearne explained the 
 object of his journey, and his guide being personally 
 known to them, they treated the party, which consisted of 
 150 persons, with distinguished honour ; a feast was given, 
 the English traveller smoked with them his calumet of 
 peace, and their chiefs expressed the greatest anxiety that 
 a European settlement should be established in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the Coppermine River. They acknowledged 
 they had never found the sea at the mouth of the river ^ee 
 from ice ; but with singular simplicity seemed to consider 
 this a very trifling objection, observing, that the water was 
 always so smooth between the ice and the shore, that even 
 small boats could sail there with great ease ; and inferring 
 that what a canoe could do a large ship must be sure to ac- 
 complish. As Hearne was the first white man they had 
 seen, he was surrounded by numbers, who examined him 
 with the utmost minuteness. The result, however, was 
 satisfactory ; for they at last pronounced him to be a perfect 
 human being, except in the colour of his hair and eyes : 
 the first they insisted was like the stained hair of a buffaloes 
 tail, and the last, being lioht, were compared to those of a 
 gull. The whiteness of his skin also was a circumstance 
 on which they demurred a little, observing, that it looked 
 like meat which had been sodden in water till all the blood 
 was extracted. He continued, however, to be viewed with 
 a mixture of curiosity and admiration, and at his toilet was 
 
 I 
 

 116 
 
 VARIATIONS IN THE CLIMATE. 
 
 I: ? 
 
 generally attended by a body of the Indians, who, Tvhen he 
 used his comb, asked for the hairs which came off. These 
 they carefully wrapped up, saying, " When I see you again, 
 you shall affain see your hair."* 
 
 On reaching Congecathawhachaga in latitude 68° 46' 
 north, Matonabbee deemed it expedient to leave all the 
 women, taking the precaution to kill as many deer as were 
 necessary for their support during his absence. The flesh 
 was cut into thin slices and dried in the sun, — a frequent 
 mode of preserving it in these high northern latitudes, by 
 which it is kept palatable and nourishing for a twelve- 
 month. Having completed these arrangements, the party 
 resumed their journey on the 1st of July, proceeding amid 
 dreadful storms of snow and occasional torrents of rain, 
 which drenched them to the skin, through a barren and 
 desolate country, where it was impossible with the wet 
 moss and green brushwood to kindle a fire. Compelled to 
 take shelter in caves at night, — for they had no tents, — 
 obliged to eat their meat raw, with the enjoyment of no 
 higher luxury than a pipe, they yet pushed forward with 
 unshaken perseverance, and after a week of great suffering 
 had the comfort to observe a complete change in the weather, 
 which first became moderate, and soon after so sultry that 
 it was sometimes impossible to move at all. 
 
 Early on the morning of 13th July, the expedition crossed 
 a long chain of hills, from the top of which they discerned 
 a branch that joins the Coppermme about forty miles from 
 its . influx into the sea. Here the Indians killed a few fine 
 buck-deer, procured some excellent firewood, and, as it was 
 not certain that so favourable an opportunity would soon 
 occur again, they sat down with appetites sharpened by 
 long privation, spirits raised by the recollection of hardships 
 overcome, and the almost certain prospect of ere long ac- 
 complishing the great object of their expedition, to the 
 most cheerful and comfortable meal they had enjoyed for a 
 long period. The reader will be amused with Hearne's 
 description of this delicious repast, and of the mysteries of 
 Indian cookery. " As such favourable opportunities of in- 
 dulging the appetite," says he, *• happen but seldom, it is a 
 general rule with the Indians, which we did not neglect, 'j 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 123. 
 
THE COPPERMINE RIVER. 
 
 117 
 
 en he 
 rhese 
 
 JO 46' 
 ill the 
 I were 
 i flesh 
 equent 
 les, by 
 welve- 
 3 party 
 7 amid 
 »f rain, 
 en and 
 he Viet 
 elled to 
 ents, — 
 t of no 
 rd with 
 affering 
 ireather, 
 ry that 
 
 crossed 
 seemed 
 es from 
 'ew fine 
 |s it was 
 lid soon 
 sned by 
 irdships 
 long ac- 
 to the 
 d for a 
 earne's 
 sries of 
 of in- 
 1, it is a 
 ■kct, 'J 
 
 exert every art in dressing their food which the most refined 
 skill in Indian cooking has been able to invent, and which 
 consists chiefly in boiling, broiling, and roasting ; but of all 
 the dishes cooked by these people, a becatee, as it is called 
 in their language, is certainly the most delicious (at least 
 for a change) which can be prepared from a deer only with- 
 out any other ingredient. It is a kind of Scotch * haggis^ 
 made with the blood, a good quantity of fat shred small, 
 some of the tenderest of the flesh, together with the heart 
 and lungs, cut or more commonly torn into small shivers, — 
 all which is put into the stomach and roasted, by being sus- 
 pended over the fire by a string. Care must be taken that 
 It does not get too much heat at first, as the bag would 
 thereby be liable to be burnt and the contents let out. 
 When it is sufliciently done it will emit a rich steam, in the 
 same manner as a fowl or a joint of meat, which is as 
 much as to say, ' Come eat me now !' and if it be taken in 
 time, before the blood or the contents are too much done, it 
 is certainly a most delicious morsel, even without pepper, 
 salt, or any other seasoning."* 
 
 Having regaled themselves in this sumptuous manner, 
 and taken a few hours' rest, they once more set out, and 
 after a walk of nine or ten miles, at last arrived at the Cop- 
 permine. Scarcely had Hearne congratulated himself on 
 reaching the great object of his mission, unpacked his sur- 
 veying instruments, and prepared to follow its progress to 
 the great Arctic Ocean, when one of those dark and terri- 
 ble scenes occurred which are so strikingly characteristic 
 of savage life. As soon as Matonabbee and his party 
 gained the banks of the river, three spies were sent out to 
 discover whether any Esquimaux were in the neighbour- 
 hood. After a short absence they returned with intelli- 
 gence that they had seen five tents, about twelve miles dis- 
 tant on the west side of the river. All was no\v warlike 
 preparation ; the guns, knives, and spears were carefully 
 examined; and as they learned that the nature of the 
 ground would render it easy to advance unperceived, it was 
 determined to steal upon their victims in this manner, and 
 put them to death. This plan was executed with the most 
 savage exactness ; and nothing could present a more dread- 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 144. 
 
I ■ 
 
 1 1 
 
 \\ 
 
 ^^1 i 
 
 118 
 
 V 
 
 ATTACK ON THE ESQUIMAUX. 
 
 All view of human nature in its unenlightened state thon 
 the perfect unanimity of purpose which pervaded the wholo 
 body of Indians upon this horrid occasion, although at 
 other times they were in no respect amenable to discipline. 
 
 Each man first painted his target, some with a represent- 
 ation of the sun, others of the moon, and several with the 
 pictures of beasts and birds of prey, or of imaginary be- 
 ings, which they affirmed to be the inhabitants of the ele- 
 ments upon whose assistance they relied for success in 
 their enterprise. They then moved with the utmost stealth 
 in the direction of the tents, taking care not to cross any 
 of the hills which concealed their approach. It was a 
 miserable circumstance that these poor creatures had taken 
 up their abode in such ground that their enemies, without 
 being observed, formed an ambuscade not 200 yards* dis- 
 tant, and lay for some time watching the motions of the 
 Esquimaux, as if marking their victims. Here the last 
 preparations for the attack were made : the Indians tied up 
 their long black hair in a knot behind, lest it should be 
 blown in their eyes ; painted their faces black and red, 
 which gave them a hideous aspect ; deliberately tucked up 
 the sleeves of their jackets close under the armpits, and 
 pulled off their stockings ; while some, still more eager to 
 render themselves light for running, threw off their jackets, 
 and stood with their weapons in their hands quite naked, 
 except their breech-clothes and shoes. By the time all 
 ■were ready it was near one o'clock in the morning ; when, 
 finding the Esquimaux quiet, they rushed from their con- 
 cealment. In an instant, roused by the shouts of the 
 savages, the unfortunate wretches, men, women, and chil- 
 dren, ran naked out of the tents, and attempted to escape ; 
 but the Indians had surrounded them on the land side, and 
 as none dared to leap into the river, all were murdered in 
 cold blood ; while Heame, whom a regard for his personal 
 safety had compelled to accompany the party, stood a short 
 way off rooted to the ground in horror and agony. 
 
 " The shrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretches," 
 says he, in his striking account of this dreadful episode in 
 savage life, "were truly distressing; and my horror was 
 much increased at seeing a young girl, about eighteen years 
 of age, killed so near me that when the first spear was 
 ^truck into her side she fell down at my feet and twisted 
 
 4 
 
DREADFUL MASSACRE. 
 
 119 
 
 jte than 
 he whole 
 lough at 
 iscipUne. 
 epresent- 
 with the 
 inary be- 
 f the ele- 
 uccess in 
 >st stealth 
 cross any 
 It was a 
 had taken 
 s, without 
 yards' dis- 
 3ns of the 
 e the last 
 ins tied up 
 should be 
 Ic and red, 
 tucked up 
 •inpits, and 
 ire eager to 
 sir jackets, 
 ite naked, 
 le time all 
 ,g ; when, 
 their con- 
 jts of the 
 I, and chil- 
 to escape ; 
 1 side, and 
 [urdered in 
 is personal 
 lod a short 
 
 wretches," 
 
 [episode in 
 
 lorror was 
 
 ^teen years 
 
 spear was 
 
 id twisted 
 
 round my legs, so that it was with difficulty that T '*ouId 
 disengage myself from her dying grasps. As twp L .an 
 men pursued this unfortunate victim, I solicited very hard 
 for her life ; but the murderers made no reply till they had 
 stuck both their spears through her body and transfixed her 
 to the ground. They then looked me sternly in the face, 
 and began to ridicule me by asking if I wanted an Esqui- 
 maux wife, while they paid not the smallest regard to the 
 shrieks and agony of the poor wretch, who was turning 
 round their spears like an eel. Indeed, after receiving 
 from them much abusive language on the occasion, I was 
 at length obliged to desire that they would be more expe- 
 ditious in despatching their victim out of her misery, other- 
 wise I should be obliged out of pity to assist in the friendly 
 office of putting an end to the existence of a fellow-crea- 
 ture who was so cruelly wounded. On this request being 
 made, one of the Indians hastily drew his spear from the 
 place where it was first lodged, and pierced it through her 
 breast near the heart. The love of life, however, even in 
 this most miserable state, was so predominant, that though 
 this might be justly called the most merciful act which 
 could be done for the poor creature, it seemed to be unwel- 
 come ; for, though much exhausted by pain and loss of 
 blood, she made several efforts to ward off the friendly 
 blow. My situation and the terror of my mind at behold- 
 ing this butchery cannot easily be conceived, much less de- 
 scribed : though I summoned up all the fortitude I was mas- 
 ter of on the occasion, it was with difficulty that I could re- 
 firain from tears ; and I am confident that my features must 
 have feelingly expressed how sincerely I was affected at the 
 barbarous scene I then witnessed. Even at this hour I 
 cannot reflect on thp transactions of that horrid day without 
 shedding tears."* 
 
 After making an accurate survey of the rive.' till its 
 junction with the sea, Hearne proceeded to one of the cop- 
 per-mines, which he found scarcely to deserve the name, it 
 being nothing more than a chaotic mass of rocks and 
 gravel, rent by an earthquake, or some other convulsion, 
 into numerous fissures, through one of which flowed a small 
 river. Although the Indians had talked in magnificent 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 154^ 
 
 n 
 
 .1 
 
-VT 
 
 120 
 
 ATHABASCA LAKE. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 tenns of this mine, after a search of four hours a solitary 
 piece o( ore was all that could be discovered ; and instead 
 jf pointing out the hills entirely composed of copper, and 
 the quantities of rich ore with which they had affirmed it 
 would he easy to freight a large vessel, they now told a 
 ridiculous story of some insults offered to the goddess of 
 the mine, who in revenge declared that she would sit upon 
 it till -she and it sunk together into the earth. In conse- 
 quence of this threat, they next year found her sunk up to 
 the waist, and the quantity of copper much decreased, 
 while the following summer she had entirely disappeared, 
 and the whole mine along with her. 
 
 In reaching the sea, Hearne had accomplished the great 
 object of his journey, and his homeward route did not vary 
 materially from his course to the Arctic Ocean. On 31 st 
 July, they arrived at the place where the Indians had left 
 their families, and on 9th August resumed their '^-oursa to 
 the south-west ; travelling with frequent intervnla of rest 
 till, on 24th November, they reached the northern shore of 
 the great Athabasca Lake. In this latitude, at this season, 
 the sun's course formed an extremely small segment of a 
 circle above the horizon, scarcely rising half-way up the 
 trees ; but the brilliancy of the stars, and the vivid and 
 beautiful light emitted by the aurora borealis, even without 
 the aid of the moon, amply compens ted for the want of 
 the sun, so that at midnight Hearne c<L>aId see to read very 
 small print. In the deep stillness of the night, also, these 
 northern meteors were distinctly heard to make a rushing 
 and crackling noise, like the waving of a large f!ag in a 
 fresh gale of wind.* According to the information of the 
 natives, the Athabasca Lake is nearly 120 leagues long 
 from east to west, and twenty wide from north to south. 
 It was beautifully studded with islands, covered with tall 
 poplars, birch, and pines, which were plentifully stocked 
 with deer, and abounded with pike, trout, and barbel, be- 
 sides the species known by the Indians under the names of 
 tittameg, methy, and shees. 
 
 The country through which they had hitherto travelled 
 had been extremely barren and hilly, covered with stunted 
 firs and dwarf willows ; but it now subsided into a fine 
 
 * Ilearne'a Journey, p. 224. 
 
STORY OF AN INDUN WOMAN. 
 
 121 
 
 rs a solitary 
 and instead 
 copper, and 
 1 affirmed it 
 r now told a 
 J goddess of 
 ould sit upon 
 1. In conse- 
 ir sunk up to 
 h decreased, 
 disappeared, 
 
 led the great 
 , did not vary 
 an. On 3 1st 
 dians had left 
 eir '^-oursa to 
 ervfila of rest 
 hern shore of 
 it this season, 
 segment of a 
 f-way up the 
 the vivid and 
 , even without 
 ' the want of 
 e to read very 
 ht, also, these 
 ike a rushing 
 irge flag in a 
 ation of the 
 leagues long 
 [orth to south, 
 ered with tall 
 ifuUy stocked 
 id barhel, be- 
 the names of 
 
 jerto travelled 
 
 with stunted 
 
 id into a fine 
 
 plain, occasionally varied with tall woods, and well stocked 
 with buflalo and moose-deer. The party spent some days with 
 much pleasure in hunting ; and as the flesh of the younger 
 buffaloes was delicious, their exhausted stock of provisions 
 was seasonably supplied. In one of their excursions an 
 incident occurred strikingly characteristic of savage life. 
 The Indians came suddenly on the track of a strange 
 snow-shoe, and following it to a wild part of the country, 
 remote from any human habitation, they discovered a hut, 
 in which a young Indian woman was sitting alone. She 
 had lived for the last eight moons in absolute solitude, and 
 recounted with alfccting simplicity the circumstances by 
 which she had been driven from her own people. She be- 
 longed, she said, to the tribe of the Dog-ribbed Indians, 
 and in an inroad of the Athabasca nation, in the summer 
 of 1 770, had been taken prisoner. The savages, according 
 to their invariable practice, stole upon the tents in the 
 night, and murdered before her face her father, mother, and 
 husband, while she and three other young women were re- 
 served from the slaughter, and made captive. Her child, 
 four or five months old, she contrived to carry with her, 
 concealed among some clothing ; but on arriving at the 
 place where the party had left their wives, her precious 
 bundle was examined by the Athabasca women, one of 
 whom tore the infant from its mother, and killed it on the 
 spot. In Europe, an act so inhuman would, in all proba- 
 bility, have been instantly followed by the insanity of the 
 parent ; but in North America, though maternal affection 
 is equally intense, the nerves are more sternly strung. So 
 horrid a cruelty, however, determined her, though the man 
 whose property she had become was kind and careful of 
 her, to take the first opportunity of escaping, with the in- 
 tention of returning to her own nation ; but the great dis- 
 tance, and the numerous winding rivers and creeks she had 
 to pass, caused her to lose the way, and winter coming on, 
 she had built a hut in this secluded spot. When discovered, 
 she was in good health, well fed, and in the opinion of 
 Hearne one of the finest Indian women he had ever seen* 
 Five or six inches of hoop made into a knife, and the iron 
 shank of an arrow-head which served as an awl, were the 
 only implements she possessed ; and with these she made 
 enow-shoes and other useful articles. For subsistence she 
 
 V 
 
 ■I, 
 
 ^ m 
 
 I ' 
 
 u 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 i' % 
 
 \ 'm 
 
 ^ 1 
 
 f> \m 
 
 t m 
 
 
 ) 
 
 i 
 
 ■r. . 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 
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1 
 
 \ 
 
 '^. 
 
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 M 
 
 ■I": 
 
 N. 
 
 • \ }) 
 
 r '.* 
 
 1 /I* 
 
 .. 
 
 f 
 
 1 / 
 
 ;■ i( 
 
 ir> #• 
 
 
 ' *« '■ ■ 
 
 " '|i 
 
 
 » 
 
 122 RETURN TO PRINCE OF WALES* FORT. 
 
 snared partridf^es, rabbits, and squirrels, and had itilled two 
 or three beavers and some porcupines. After the few deer- 
 sinews she had brought with her were expended in making 
 snares and sewing her clothing, she supplied their place 
 with the sinews of rabbits* legs, which she twisted together 
 with great dexterity. Thus occupied, she not only became 
 reconciled to her desolate situation, but had found time to 
 amuse herself by manufacturing little pieces of personal 
 ornament. Her clothing was formed of rabbit-skins sewed 
 together ; the materials, though rude, being tastefully dis- 
 posed, so as to make her garb assume a pleasing though 
 desert-bred appearance. The singular circumstances under 
 which she was found, her beauty and useful accomplish- 
 ments, occasioned a contest among the Indians, as to who 
 should have her for a wife ; and the matter being decided, 
 she accompanied them in their journey. On Ist March, 
 they left the level country of the Athabascas, and approached 
 the stony hills bounding the territories of the Northern 
 Indians, traversing which they arrived in safety at Prince 
 of Wales' Fort on the 29th of June, 1772, having been ab- 
 sent eighteen months and twenty-three days. 
 
 The journey of Hearne must be regarded as forming an 
 important era in the geography of America. For some 
 time it had been supposed that this vast continent extended 
 in an almost unbroken mass towards the Pole ; and we find 
 it thus depicted in the maps of that period. The circum- 
 stance of Hearne having reached the shore of the great 
 Arctic Ocean at once demonstrated the fallacy of all such 
 ideas. It threw a new and clear light upon the structure 
 of this portion of the globe, and resting upon the results 
 thus distinctly ascertained, the human mind, indefatigable in 
 the pursuit of knowledge, started forward in a career of 
 still more enlarged and interesting discovery.* 
 
 While the Hudson's Bay Company, by the mission of 
 Mr. Hearne, vindicated their character from the charge of in- 
 difference to the cause of geographical discovery, another 
 institution had arisen, under the title of the North-west 
 Fur Company, which, though it did not rest on a royal char- 
 ter, and had experienced in its earliest exertions many severe 
 reverses, at last arrived, by the intelligence and perseverance 
 
 * Murray's Discoveries and Travels in North America, vol. ii. p. 14d, 
 
 1 
 
SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 
 
 123 
 
 killed two 
 B few deer- 
 
 in making 
 their place 
 ed together 
 nly became 
 nd time to 
 of personal 
 kins sewed 
 jtefully dis- 
 ing though 
 inces under 
 accompliah- 
 ;, as to who 
 ng decided, 
 lat March, 
 
 approached 
 e Northern 
 y at Prince 
 ng been ab- 
 
 forming an 
 For some 
 
 n^ extended 
 
 and we find 
 he circum- 
 
 f the great 
 of all such 
 
 ,e structure 
 the results 
 fatigable in 
 
 la career of 
 
 mission of 
 large of in- 
 [•y, another 
 Torth-west 
 [royal char- 
 lany severer 
 trseverance 
 
 si. ii. p. 149. 
 
 *f its partners and servants, at a degree of prosperity which 
 surpassed th»' chartered companies of France and England. 
 In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory, a partner of this 
 company, was bred a native of Inverness, named Alexander 
 Mackenzie. In conducting the practical details of the fur- 
 trade, he hi> 1 been settled at an early period of life in the 
 country to the north-west of Lake Superior, and became 
 animated with the ambition of penetrating across the con- 
 tinent : for this undertaking he was eminently qualified, 
 possessing an inquisitive and enterprising mind, with a strong 
 frame of budy, and combining the fervid and excursive genius 
 which has been said to characterize the Scots in general, 
 with that more cautious and enduring temperament which 
 belongs to the northern Highlander. 
 
 On 3d June, 1789, Mackenzie set out from Fort Chepe- 
 wyan, at the head of the Athabasca Laike, a station nearly 
 central between Hudson's Bay and the Tucific. He had 
 resided here for eight years, and was familiar with the diffi- 
 culties of the journey as well as aware of the most likely 
 methods of surmounting them. He took with him four 
 canoes. In the first he embarked with a German and four 
 Canadians, tv > of the latter being accompanied by their 
 wives. A Northern Indian, called the English Chief, who 
 had been a follower of Matonabbee, the guide of Mr. Hearne» 
 occupied the second with his two wives. The third was 
 paddled by two stout young Indians, who acted in the double 
 capacity of hunters and interpreters ; while the fourth was 
 laden with provisions, clothing, ammunition, and various 
 articles intended as presents for the Indians. This last 
 canoe was committed to the charge of Mi Le Roux, one of 
 the company's clerks. 
 
 On 4th June, the party reached the Slave River, which 
 connects the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, in a course of 
 about one hundred and seventy miles ; and on the 9th of the 
 same month they arrived at the Slave Lake, without ex- 
 periencing any other mconvenienccs than those arising from 
 the attacks of the mosquitoes during the heat of the day, 
 and the extreme cold in the morning and evening. In the 
 river wers frequent rapids, which obliged them to land and 
 transport their canoes and luggai^e over the carrying-places, 
 —a toilsome process, but attended with no danger, as the 
 path had been cleared by the Indians trading with the con^- 
 
 •*« 
 
 ^ 1! 
 
 
 ■■' ll 
 
 v^ ^ 
 
 
 
124 
 
 RED KNIFE INDIANS. 
 
 ;i ii 
 
 n ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 pany. The banks were covered with various kinds of trees ; 
 but, owing to its inferior level and its rich black soil, the 
 western side was more thickly wooded than the other. On 
 the eastern bank, composed of a yellow clay mixed with 
 gravel, the trees were smaller, but in full leaf, though the 
 ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in depth. At 
 a little distance from the river were extensive plains fre- 
 quented by herds of buffaloes ; the woods bordering its 
 sides were tenanted by moose and rein-deer ; and numerous 
 colonies of beavers built their habitations on the small streams 
 which fed the lake. This large body of water was covered 
 with ice, which had not given way except in a small strip 
 round the shore, where the depth, nowhere exceeding three 
 feet, was scarcely sufficient to float the canoes. Though 
 now the 9th of June, there was every appearance that the 
 ice would detain the expedition for a considerable time ; and 
 it was thought necessary to pitch their tents. The nets 
 were now set ; Ihe Indians went off in different directions 
 to hunt ; the women gathered berries of various sorts, which 
 abounded in the neighbouring woods ; and their larder was 
 soon supplied with plenty of geese, ducks, and beaver, ex- 
 cellent trout, carp, and white-fish, and some dozens of swan 
 and duck eggs, which were picked up on an adjacent island. 
 Their stay, therefore, was far from unpleasant, combining 
 the novelty of a residence in a strange country with the ex- 
 citation and variety of a hunter's life ; and on the 15th, 
 after a rest of six days, as the ice had given way a little, 
 they resumed their journey. 
 
 Since leaving Athabasca, the twilight had been so bright, 
 owing to the short disappearance of the sun below the 
 horizon, that even at midnight not a star was to be seen ; 
 but as they glided along the lake they were greeted by the 
 moon, which rose beautifully above the woods, with her 
 lower horn in a state of eclipse. The obscuration continued 
 for about six minutes in a cloudless sky.* Coasting along 
 the shore, they came to a lodge of Red Knife Indians, so 
 denominated from their using copper knives. One of these 
 men engaged to conduct them to the mouth of the river 
 which was the object of their search ; but such were the 
 impediments encountered from drift-ice, contrary winds, and 
 
 ,-.-'1'' 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. II. ^ ' 
 
 4 i>: 
 
 .'* 
 
 J J 
 
 V 
 
 3?. 
 
SLAVE AND DOG-RIBBED INDIANS. 
 
 123 
 
 3s of trees ; 
 ;k soil, the 
 other. On 
 mixed with 
 though the 
 I depth. At 
 
 plains fre- 
 ordering its 
 d numerous 
 naall streams 
 was covered 
 L small strip 
 jeding three 
 s. Though 
 nee that the 
 le time ; and 
 . The nets 
 nt directions 
 
 sorts, which 
 ir larder was 
 1 beaver, ex- 
 >zensofswan 
 jacent island. 
 It, combining 
 
 with the ex- 
 m the I5th, 
 
 way a little, 
 
 'en so bright, 
 n below the 
 _ to be seen ; 
 reeted by the 
 ds, with her 
 ,on continued 
 lasting along 
 Indians, so 
 One of these 
 of the river 
 ch were the 
 winds, and 
 
 the ignorance of the guide, whom the English Chief 
 threatened to murder for engaging in a service for which he 
 was unfit, that it was the 29th of the month before they em- 
 barked upon the river since known by the name of the 
 traveller who now first ascended it. On leaving the lake, 
 the Mackenzie River was found to run to the westward, 
 becoming gradually narrower for twenty-four mile^, till it 
 diminished into a stream not more than half a mile wide, 
 with a strong current, and a depth of three and a half 
 fathoms. A stiff breeze from the eastward now drove them 
 on at a great rate, and after a rapid run of ten miles, the 
 channel gradually widened till it assumed the appearance 
 of a small lake, which proved to be the utmost limit known 
 to their guide. They now came in sight of the chain of 
 the Horn Mountains, bearing north-west, and had some 
 difficulty in recovering the channel of the river. 
 
 Having resumed their course on 1st July, they met with 
 no interruption for five days, when they observed several 
 smokes on the northern bank. On landing they discovered 
 an encampment of five families of Slave and Dog-ribbed 
 Indians, who on the first appearance of the party fled into 
 the woods in consternation. The entreaties of the English 
 Chief, whose language they understood, at length dissipated 
 their apprehensions ; and the distribution of a few beads, 
 rings, and knives, with a supply of grog, reconciled them 
 entirely to the strangers. Their account of the difficulties 
 in the farther navigation of the river was not a little ap- 
 palling : they asserted that it would require several winters 
 to reach the sea, and that old age would inevitably overtake 
 the party before their return. Monsters of horrid shapes 
 and malignant disposition were represented as having their 
 abodes in the rocky caves on the banks, ready to devouf the 
 presumptuous traveller who approached ; and the oiore sub- 
 stantial impediment of two impassable falls was said to 
 exist about thirty days* march from where they then were. 
 
 Though such tales were treated with contempt by Mac- 
 kenzie, the Indians, already tired of the voyage, drank them 
 in with willing ears, and they could scarcely be persuaded 
 to pursue their journey. On consenting to proceed, one of 
 the Dog-ribbed Indians was induced, by the present of a 
 kettle, an axe, and some other articles, to accompany them 
 as a .guide ; but when the time of embarkation arrived, his 
 
 8 
 
 ll 
 
 r* 
 
 # 
 
S ) 
 
 ! 
 
 136 
 
 SLAVE AND DOO-RIBBED INDIANS. 
 
 P 
 
 ' '1 
 
 love of home came upon him with such violence that he 
 used every artifice to escape from his agreement, and at 
 last was actually forced on board. Previous to his depart* 
 ure, a singular ceremony took place : with great solemnity 
 he cut off a lock of his hair, and dividing it into three partsy 
 fastened one to the upper part of his wife's head, blowing on 
 it thrice with the utmost violence, and uttering certain 
 words as a charm. The other two locks he fixed with the 
 same ceremonies to the heads of his two children. These 
 Indians were in general a meager, ugly, and ill-favoured race, 
 particularly ill-made in the legs. Some of them wore their 
 hair very long, others allowed a tress to fall behind, cutting 
 the rest short round their ears. A few old men had beards, 
 while the young and middle-aged appeared to have pulled 
 out every hair on their chin. Each cheek was adorned by 
 two double lines tattooed from the ear to the nose, of which 
 the gristle was perforated so as to admit a goose-quill or a 
 small piece of wood. Their clothing consisted of dressed 
 deer-skins. For winter wear these were prepared with the 
 fur, and the shirts made of them decorated with a neat em< 
 broidery, composed of porcupine-quills and the hair of the 
 moose-deer, coloured red, black, yellow, or white. Their 
 shirts reached to the mid-thigh, while their upper garments 
 covered the whole body, having a fringe round the bottom. 
 Their leggins, which were embroidered round the ankle and 
 sewed to their shoes, reached to mid-thigh. The dress of 
 the women was nearly the same as that of the men. They 
 wore gorgets of horn or wood, and had bracelets of the 
 same materials. On their head was placed a fillet or ban- 
 deau, formed of strips of leather, embroidered richly with 
 porcupine-quills, and stuck round with bears' claws or talons 
 of wild fowl. Their belts and garters were neatly con- 
 structed of the sinews of wild animals and porcupine-quills. 
 From these belts descended a long fringe composed of strings 
 of leather, and worked round with hair of various colours, 
 and their mittens hung from their neck in a position con- 
 ▼enient for the reception of their hands.* Their arms and 
 weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, spears, 
 daggers, and a large club formed of the rein-deer horn, 
 called a pogamagan. The bows were about five or six feei 
 
 Mackenue's Travels, p. 36-37. 
 
 ■4 
 
 ■i M 
 
 -t? 
 
 ,U[ 
 
AMCmCAN MUSIC. 
 
 127 
 
 ice that he 
 «nt, and at 
 
 his depart- 
 it solemnity 
 ( three parts, 
 1, blowing on 
 iring certain 
 :ed with the 
 ren. These 
 avoured race, 
 m wore their 
 hind, cutting 
 
 1 had beards, 
 ) have pulled 
 s adorned by 
 ose, of which 
 ose-quill or a 
 ed of dressed 
 lared with the 
 Lth a neat em- 
 lie hair of the 
 jvhite. Their 
 pper garments 
 id the bottom, 
 the ankle and 
 The dress of 
 men. They 
 kcelets of the 
 
 fillet or ban- 
 id richly with 
 slaws or talons 
 e neatly con- 
 ■cupine-quills. 
 •sed of strings 
 Lrious colours, 
 position con- 
 Iheir arms and 
 ows, spears, 
 iin-deer horn, 
 dive or six feet 
 
 long, with strings of sinews ; and flint, iron, or copper, 
 supplied barbs to the arrows. Their spears, nearly six 
 feet long, were pointed with bone, while their stone axes 
 were fastened with cords of green skin to a wooden handle. 
 Their canoes were light, and so small as to carry only one 
 person. 
 
 On 5th July, the party re-embarked. Continuing their 
 course west-south-west they passed the Great Bear Lake 
 River; and steering through numerous islands, came in 
 sight of a ridge of snowy mountains, frequented, according 
 to their guide, by herds of bears and small white buffaloes. 
 The banks of the river appeared to be pretty thickly peopled ; 
 dnd though at first the natives uniformly attempted to escape, 
 the offer of presents generally brought them back, and pro- 
 cured a seasonable supply of hares, partridges, fish, or rein- 
 deer. The same stories of spirits or manitous which haunted 
 the stream, and of fearful rapids that would dash the canoes 
 to pieces, were repeated by these tribes ; and the guide, 
 upon whom such representations had a powerful effect, de- 
 camped in the night during a storm of thunder and light- 
 ning. His place, however, was soon supplied ; and, after a 
 short sail, they approached an encampment of Indians, 
 whose brawny figures, healthy appearance, and great clean- 
 liness showed them to be a superior race to those lately 
 passed. From them Mackenzie learned that he must sleep 
 ten nights before arriving at the sea, and in three nights 
 would meet the Esquimaux, with whom they had been 
 formerly at war, but were now in a state of peace. One of 
 these people, whose language was most intelligible to the 
 interpreter, agreed to accompany the party ; but became 
 dreadfully alarmed when some of the men discharged their 
 fowling-pieces. It was evident none of this race had ever 
 heard the report of firearms. To reconcile him to his de- 
 parture, his two brothers followed in their canoes, and di- 
 verted him with native songs, and other airs said to be imi- 
 tations of those of the Esquimaux. The triumph of music 
 was never more strikingly exhibited ; from deep dejection 
 the Indian at once passed into a state of the highest and 
 most ludicrous excitement, keeping time to the songs by a 
 variety of grotesque gesticulations, performed with such un- 
 ceasing rapidity and so little regard to the slendemess of the 
 bark, which quivered under his weight, that they expected 
 
 ^'i 
 
 iM 
 

 ., ?■ 
 
 
 ^ If" 
 
 
 »! 
 
 128 
 
 QUARRELLER INDIANS. 
 
 every moment to see it upset. In one of his paroxy8in6» 
 shooting his canoe alongside of Mackenzie's, he leaped 
 into it, and commenced an Esquimaux dance. At last he 
 was restored to some degree of composure, which became 
 complete on their passing a hill, where he informed them 
 that three winters ago the Esquimaux had slain his grand- 
 father.* 
 
 Mackenzie soon after reached the tents of a tribe named 
 Deguthee-Dinees, or Quarrellers, who justified their name 
 by the menacing gestures with which they received the 
 strangers' approach. A few presents, however, reconciled 
 them to the intrusion ; and they communicated the gratify- 
 ing intelligence that the distance overland to the sea, either 
 by an easterly or westerly route, was inconsiderable. The 
 party now pushed on with renewed hopes ; and the river 
 soon after separating into several streams, they chose the 
 middle and largest, which ran north. This shortly brought 
 in sight a range of snowy mountains, stretching far to the 
 northward ; and, by an observation, Mackenzie found the 
 latitude to be 67° 47', which convinced him that the 
 waters on which their frail barks were then gliding must 
 flow into the great Hyperborean Ocean. + At this moment, 
 when within a few days of accomplishing the great object 
 of their journey, the Indians sank into a fit of despondency, 
 and hesitated to proceed. The guide pleaded his ignorance 
 of the country, as he had never before penetrated to the 
 shores of the Benahulla Toe, or "White Man's Lake. Mac- 
 kenzie assured them he would return if they did not reach 
 it in seven days, and prevailed on them to continue theii 
 course. 
 
 It w{ s now the 11th of July, and the sun at midnight 
 was still considerably above the horizon, while every thing 
 denoted the proximity of the sea. On landing at a deserted 
 encampment, still marked by the ashes of some Esquimaux 
 fires, they observed several pieces of whalebone, and a 
 place where train-oil had been spilt. Soon after they 
 came to three houses recently left by the natives. The 
 ground-plot of these habitations was oval, about fifteen feet 
 long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either 
 end ; the whole was dug about twelve inches below the 
 
 ''' Mackenzie's Travels, p. 51. 
 
 t Jbid. p. 54, 
 
 I 
 
ESQ17IMAUX HOUSES. 
 
 129 
 
 paroxysmSi 
 8, he leaped 
 
 At last he 
 ^hich became 
 [formed them 
 in his grand- 
 
 , tribe named 
 1 their name 
 received the 
 jr, reconciled 
 d the gratify- 
 he sea, either 
 erable. The 
 ind the river 
 ley chose the 
 lortly brought 
 ing far to the 
 :ie found the 
 lim that the 
 gliding must 
 this moment, 
 p great object 
 despondency, 
 his ignorance 
 ;rated to the 
 iLake. Mac- 
 id not reach 
 ntinue their 
 
 at midnight 
 every thing 
 I at a deserted 
 Esquimaux 
 )one, and a 
 after they 
 itives. The 
 It fifteen feet 
 feet at either 
 below the 
 
 |64, 
 
 surface, one half being covered with willow-branches, and 
 probably forming the bed of the whole family. In the mid- 
 dle of the other half, a space four feet wide, which had 
 been hollowed to the depth of twelve inches, was the only 
 spot where a grown person could stand upright. One side 
 of it was covered with willow-branches, and the other 
 formed the hearth. The door, in one end of the house, 
 was about two feet and a half high by two feet wide, and 
 was reached through a covered way about five feet long ; 
 so that the only access to this curious dwelling was by 
 creeping on all-fours. On the top was an orifice about 
 eighteen inches square, which served the triple purpose of 
 a window, a chimney, and an occasional door. The under- 
 ground part of the floor was lined with split wood, while 
 cross pieces of timber, laid on six or eight upright stakes, 
 supported an oblong square roof; the whole being formed 
 of drift-wood, and covered with branches and dry grass, 
 over which was spread earth a foot thick. On either side 
 of these houses were a few square holes, about two feet 
 deep, covered with split wood and earth, excepting one 
 small place in the middle, which appeared to be contrived 
 for the preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In 
 and about the houses lay sled-runners, and bones, pieces 
 of whalebone, and poplar-bark cut in circles, used evi- 
 dently to buoy the nets ; and before each habitation a great 
 number of stumps of trees were driven into the ground, 
 upon which its late possessors had probably hung their 
 nets and fish to dry in the sun. 
 
 The signs of vegetation were by this time scarcely per- 
 ceptible ; the trees had dwindled into a few dwarf willows, 
 not more than three feet high ; and though the footmarks 
 on the sandy beach of some of the islands showed that the 
 natives had recently been there, all attempts to obtain a 
 sight of them proved unavailing. The discontent of the 
 guide and of the Indian hunters was now renewed ; but 
 their assertion, that on the morrow they were to reach 
 a large lake in which the Esquimaux killed a huge fish, 
 and whose shores were inhabited by white bears, convinced 
 Mackenzie that this description referred to the Arctic Sea, 
 with its mi|;hty denizen the whale. He accordingly pressed 
 forward with fresh ardour, and the canoes were soon 
 carried by the current to the entrance of the lake, which, 
 
 ^i, 
 
 i: 
 
* rT" 
 
 "\ 
 
 W 
 
 II 
 
 / 
 
 * [.f 
 
 TK' 
 
 130 
 
 MACKENZIE REACHES THE ARCTIC SEA. 
 
 from all the accompanying circumstances, appears to have 
 been an arm of the Arctic Ocean. It was quite open to 
 the westward, and by an observation the latitude was 
 found to be 69°. From the spot where this survey was 
 taken they now continued their course to the westernmost 
 point of a high island, which they reached after a run of 
 fifteen miles, and around it the utmost depth of water was 
 only five feet. The lake appeared to be covered with ice 
 for about two leagues' distance, no land was seen ahead, 
 and it was found impossible to proceed farther. Happily, 
 when they had thus reached the farthest point of their 
 progress northward, and were about to return in great dis- 
 appointment, two circumstances occurred which rendered 
 it certain that they had penetrated to the sea: the first 
 was the appearance of many large floating substances in 
 the water, believed at first to be masses of ice, which, on 
 being approached, turned out to be whales ; and the 
 second, the rise and fall of the tide, observed both at the 
 eastern and western end of the island, which they named 
 Whale Island.^ Having in company with the £nglisl) 
 Chief ascended to its highest ground, Mackenzie saw tb^ 
 solid ice extending to the eastward ; and to thu west, aa 
 far as the eye could reach, they dimly discerned a chain 
 of mountains, apparently about twenty leagues' distance, 
 stretching to the north wanl. Many islands were seen to 
 the eastward ; but though they came to a grave, on which 
 lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear, they met no living human 
 beings in tliese arctic solitudes. The red-fox and the rein-^ 
 deer, flocks of beautiful plovers, some venerable white owls, 
 and several large white gulls were the only natives. Prei 
 vious to setting out on their return, a post was erected close 
 to the tents, upon which the traveller engraved the latitude 
 of the place, his own name, the number of persons by whoni 
 he was accompanied^ and the time they had spent on the 
 island. 
 
 It was now the 16th of July, and they re-embarked on 
 their homeward voyage. On the 21st the sun, which for 
 some time had never set, descended below the horizon, and 
 the same day eleven of the natives joined them. They 
 represented their tribe as numerous, and perpetually a( 
 
 * Mackenzie, p. 64, 6{>, 
 
} to have 
 open to 
 tutle was 
 irvey was 
 sternmost 
 a run of 
 water was 
 (1 with ice 
 len ahead, 
 Happily, 
 it of their 
 I great dis- 
 h rendered 
 i: the first 
 •stances in 
 , which, on 
 ; and the 
 30th at the 
 Lhey named 
 tie English 
 izie saw the 
 the west, aa 
 led a chain 
 s' distance, 
 ere seen to 
 9, on which 
 ving human 
 Ind the rein- 
 white owls, 
 ;ives. Pre^ 
 irected close 
 the latitude 
 ns by whom 
 »ent on the 
 
 .nbarked on 
 L which for 
 \orizon, and 
 kem. They 
 tpetually at 
 
 Mackenzie's HEturn. 
 
 131 
 
 War with the Esquimaux, who had broken a treaty into 
 which they had inveigled the Indians, and butchered many 
 tof them. Occasionally a strong body ascended the river 
 in large canoes, in search of flints to point their spears and 
 arrows. At present they were on the banks of a lake to 
 the eastward, hunting rein-deer, and would soon begin to 
 catch big fish (whales) for their winter stock. They had 
 been informed that the same Esquimaux, eight or ten 
 winters ago, saw to the westward, on White Man's Lake, 
 several large Canoes full of white men, who gave iron in 
 exchange for leather. On landing at a lodge of natives 
 farther down the river, the English Chief obtained some 
 other particulars from a Dog-ribbod Indian, who had been 
 driven by some' private quf»rrel from his own nation, and 
 lived among the Hare Indians. According to his infor- 
 mation, there was a much larger river to the south-west 
 of the mountains, which fell into White Man's Lake. 
 The people on its banks were a gigantic and wicked race, 
 who could kill common men with their eyes, and sailed in 
 huge canoes. There was, he added, no known communi- 
 cation by water with this great river ; but those who had 
 seen it went over the mountains, and it flowed towards the 
 mid-day sun. This description proceeded, he acknow- 
 ledged, not from personal observation, but was taken from 
 the report of others who inhabited the opposite mountains. 
 Mackenzie, having fallen in with one of these strangers, by 
 a bribe of some beads prevailed upon him to delineate the 
 circumjacent country and the course of the unknown river 
 upon the sand. The map proved a very rude production. 
 He traced out a long point of land between the rivers with- 
 out paying the least attention to their courses. This isth- 
 mus he represented as running into the great lake, at the 
 extremity of which, as he had been told by Indians jf other 
 nations, there was built a Benahulla Couin, or White 
 Man's Fort. " This," says Mackenzie, " I took to be 
 Oonalaska Fort, and consequently ♦he river to the west to 
 be Cook's River, and that the body of water or sea into 
 which the river discharges itself at Whale Island commu- 
 nicated with Norton Sound." 
 
 Mackenzie now endeavoured to procure a guide across the 
 mountains, but the natives steadily refused ; and any ad- 
 
 \ 
 
 ' I 
 
 ', H 
 
 '^ 
 
 r! J 
 
 .-,' m 
 
 .a* 
 

 
 n 
 
 ■ >■ 
 4: 
 
 r 
 
 if 
 
 it. 
 
 
 I ' 
 
 -4. 
 
 132 MACKENZIE CONCLUDES HIS FIRST JOURNEY. 
 
 ditional intelligence which they communicated regarding the 
 country only consisted of legends concerning the super- 
 natural power and ferocity of its inhabitants. They were 
 represented as a sort of monsters with wings, who fed on 
 huge birds, which, though killed by them with ease, no other 
 mortal would venture to assail. Having gravely stated this, 
 they began both young and old to jump and dance with 
 astonishmg violence and perseverance, imitating the cries 
 of the rein-deer, bear, and wolf, in the hope of intimidating 
 Mackenzie ; but when he threatened with an angry aspect 
 to force one of them along with him across the mountains^ 
 a sudden fit of sickness seized the whole party, and in d 
 faint tone, which formed a ludicrous contrast to their former 
 vociferation, they declared they would expire the instant 
 they were taken from their homes. In the end the traveller 
 was compelled to leave them without accomplishing hi& 
 object.* 
 
 On 1st August, as the expedition approached the river of 
 the Bear Lake, the stars, which hitherto, from the extreme 
 clearness of the twilight, had continued invisible, began to 
 twinkle in the sky ; and the air, from being oppressively 
 sultry, became so cold that perpetual exercise could 
 scarcely keep the men warm. The women were now con- 
 stantly employed in making shoes of moose-skin, as a pair 
 did not last more than a day, while the hunters brought in 
 supplies of geese, rein-deer, and beaver ; and on one 
 occasion a wolf was killed, roasted, and eaten with great 
 satisfaction. On 22d August, they reached the entrance 
 of the Slave Lake, after which their progress homeward 
 presented no feature of interest, and on 12th Septem- 
 ber they arrived in safety at Fort Chepewyan, after iin 
 absence of 102 days. The importance of this journey 
 must be apparent, on considering it in connexion with 
 the expedition of Hearne. Both travellers had succeeded 
 in reaching the shores of an arctic sea ; and it became 
 not only an established fact that there was an ocean of 
 great extent in the north of America, but it was rendered 
 extremely probable that this sea formed its continuous 
 boundary. 
 
 Mackenzie concluded his first journey in September, 1789, 
 
 * Mackenzie, p. 87r 
 
ourney. 
 
 egarding the 
 r the super- 
 ' They were 
 who fed on 
 ase, no other 
 J stated this, 
 1 dance with 
 ing the crie» 
 f intimidating 
 angry asj^ect 
 le mountains^ 
 rty, and in a 
 ;o their former 
 -e the instant 
 id the traveller 
 (inplishing hi» 
 
 ed the river of 
 m the extreme 
 sible, began to 
 ig oppressively 
 exercise could 
 were now con- 
 skin, as a pair 
 ;ers brought m 
 ■ and on one 
 [ten with great 
 the entrance 
 ■ess homeward 
 13th Septem- 
 ;yan, after &n 
 ff this journey 
 fonnexion with 
 had succeeded 
 md it became 
 i8 an ocean of 
 it was rendered 
 [its continuous 
 
 jptember, 1789, 
 
 MACKENZIE S SECOND JOURNEY. 
 
 133 
 
 %i 
 
 I 
 
 ■ft 
 
 I 
 
 and about three years afterward undertook a second expe- 
 dition, which proved still more difficult and hazardous, and 
 equally important and satisfactory in its results. His object 
 was to ascend the Pea^e River, which rises in the Rocky 
 Mountains, and crossing these, to penetrate to that unknown 
 river which in his former journey had been the subject of his 
 unwearied inquiry. This he conjectured must communicate 
 with the sea ; and, pursuing its course, he hoped to reach 
 the shores of the Pacific. Setting out accordingly on 10th 
 October, 1792, he pushed on to the remotest European 
 settlement, where he spent the winter in a traffic for furs 
 with the Beaver and Rocky Indians. Having despatched 
 six canoes to Fort Chepewyan with the cargo he had col- 
 lected, he engaged hunters and interpreters, and launched 
 the canoe in which he had determined to prosecute his dis- 
 coveries. Her dimensions were twenty-five feet long within, 
 exclusive of the curves of stem and stem, twenty-six inches 
 hold, and four feet nine inches beam. She was at the same 
 time so light, that two men could carry her three or four 
 miles without resting. In this slender vessel they not only 
 stowed away their provisions, presents, arms, ammunition, 
 and baggage, to the v/eight of 3000 pounds, but found room 
 for seven Europeans, two Indians, and the leader himself. 
 On embarking, the winter interpreter left in charge of the 
 fort could not refrain from tears when he anticipated the 
 dangers they were about to encounter, while they them- 
 selves fervently offered up their prayers to Almighty God 
 for a safe return. 
 
 The commencement of their voyage was propitious ; and 
 under a serene sky, with a keen but healthy air, the bark 
 glided through some beautiful scenery. On the west side 
 of the river the ground rose in a gently-ascending lawn, 
 broken at intervals by abrupt precipices, and extending in 
 a rich woodland perspective as far as the eye could reach. 
 This magnificent amphitheatre presented groves of poplar 
 in every direction, whose openings were enlivened with 
 herds of elks and buffaloes ; the former choosing the steeps 
 and uplands, the latter preferring the plains. At this time 
 the buffaloes were attended by their young ones, which 
 frisked about, while the female elks were great with young. 
 The whole country displayed an exuberant verdure: the 
 trees which bore blossoms were rapidly bursting into 
 
 M 
 
 .'ij 
 
 »> 
 
 
 i\ 
 
 r 
 
 ^1' 
 
 i. 
 
 .* 
 
 'liiWi 
 
 1 
 
 It 
 
 
 jl 
 
 ^' 
 
 
 1 
 
r 
 
 134 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 U'nt i 
 
 r. 
 
 \l 
 
 V:W 
 
 'W 
 
 flower, and the soft velvet rind of the branches reflected 
 the oblique rays of a rising or a setting sun, imparting a 
 cheerfulness ahd brilliancy to the scene, which gladdened 
 the heart with the buovant Influences of the season.* Afler 
 a few days the air became colder, the country more deso- 
 late, the track of the large grisly bear was discerned on the 
 banks, and the weather was occasionally broken by storms 
 of thunder and lightning. 
 
 From this time till the 21st of May, the passage was 
 attended with difficulties that would have disheartened a 
 less energetic leader. The river being broken by frequent 
 cascades and dangerous rapids, it was necessary to carry 
 the canoe and luggage till they could resume their voyage 
 in safety. On their nearer approach to the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, the stream, hemmed in between stupendous rocks, 
 presented a continuance of frightful torrents and impracti* 
 cable cataracts. The dangers to which they had already 
 been exposed had greatly disheartened the men, and thej 
 began to murmur audibly, so that no alternative was left 
 but to return. Indeed (here was some reason fcr this irre-^ 
 solution ; by water farther progress was impossible, and 
 they could only advance over a mountain whose sides were 
 broken by sharp jagged rocks^ and thickly covered with 
 woodt Mackenzie despatched a reconnoitring party, with 
 orders to ascend the mountain, and proceed in a straight 
 course from its summit, keeping the line of the river till they 
 ascertained that it was navigable. During their absence his 
 people repaired the canoe, while he took an altitude, which 
 ascertained the latitude to be 56° 8'. At sunset the scouts 
 returned by different routes. They had penetrated through 
 thick woods, ascended hills, and dived into valleys, till they 
 ^ot beyond the rapids, and agreed, that though the difficul- 
 ties to be encountered by land were alarming, it was their 
 only course. Unpromising as the task appeared, their spirits 
 had risen and their murmurs were forgotten ; so that a ket- 
 tle of wild rice sweetened with sugar, with the usual even- 
 ing regale of rum, renewed their courage ; and, afler a 
 night's rest, thdjy proceeded at break of day on their labo- 
 rious journey. 
 
 In the first place, the men cut a road up the mountain 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 154, 155. 
 
PERILS OP THE JOURNEY. 
 
 135 
 
 Ihe mountain 
 
 where the trees were smallest, felling some in such a man- 
 ner as to make them fall parallel to the road without sepa- 
 ratinor them entirely from the stumps, in this way forming 
 a kind of railing on either side. The baggage and the 
 canoe were then brought from the water-side to the encamp- 
 ment, — an undertaking exceedingly perilous, as a single 
 false step must have been followed by immersion into the 
 river, which flowed here with furious rapidity. Having ac- 
 complished this labour, the party breathed a little, and then 
 ascended the mountain with the canoe, having the line or 
 rope by which it was drawn up doubled, and fastened suc- 
 cessively to the stumps left for this purpose, while a man 
 at the end hauled it round a tree, holding it on and shifting 
 it as they advanced. In this manner the canoe was warped 
 up the steep ; and by two in the afternoon every thing had 
 been carried to the summit. Men were then despatched to 
 cut the road onwards : and the incessant labour of another 
 day could only penetrate about three miles, while mountains 
 much more elevated raised their snowy summits around in 
 every direction. These, however, were at a distance ; and 
 another day's exertion brought them through a wood of tall 
 pines to the banks of the river above the rapids. Before 
 again emba;king, Mackenzie left attached to a pole a knife, 
 a steel, flint, beads, and other trifles, as a token of amity 
 to the natives ; and one of his Indians added a small round 
 stick of green wood, chewed at one end in the form of a 
 brush, used to pick marrow out of bones, — an instrument 
 which he explained to be intended as an emblem to the 
 people of a country abounding in animals.^ 
 
 They now resumed their voyage, enclosed on all sides by 
 mountains whose summits were covered with snow, and 
 one of which to the south rose to a majestic height. The 
 air became chill ; the water, through which they frequently 
 waded, towing or pushing their bark, was intensely cold ; 
 and on 3lst May, they reached a point minutely described 
 to them before setting out by an old Indian warrior. Here 
 the river separated into two streams, one running west- 
 north-west, and the other south-south-east. The first of 
 these they had been warned to avoid, as it soon lost itself 
 In various smaller currents among the mountains ; and the 
 
 * Mackenzie, p, 181.. 
 
 <n 
 
 ^r 
 
ill' J I 
 
 ■i, 
 
 
 I 
 
 136 
 
 DESPONDENCY. 
 
 steersman accordingly proceeded into the eastern branclit 
 which, though not so broad as the other, was far more 
 rapid. The course of their journey now led them through 
 many populous beaver-settlements. In some places these 
 animals had cut down several acres of large poplars ; and 
 they saw multitudes busy from sunrise to sunset erecting 
 houses, procuring food, superintending their dikes, and 
 going diligently tnrough all the labours of their little com- 
 monwealth. Perceiving soon after a smoke in the forest 
 which lined the banks, and hearing the sounds of human 
 voices in great confusion, they became aware that they 
 were near an Indian encampment from which the inhabitants 
 were retreating. Accordingly, on approaching the shore, 
 two ferocious-looking men sprang from the woods and took 
 their station on a rising ground, brandishing their spears 
 with loud vociferations. A few words of explanation from 
 the interpreter, and some presents, pacified them, and 
 Mackenzie made anxious inquiries regarding the nature of 
 the country, and the gveat river which formed the object of 
 his search. To his mortification he found that they were 
 unacquainted with any river to the westward ; they had just 
 arrived over a carrying- place of eleven days from another 
 stream, which was nothing else than a large branch of the 
 one the expedition was then navigating. Their iron, they 
 said, was procured in ex( hange for beaver and dress moose- 
 skins from the people there, who travelled during a moon to 
 the country of other tribes living in houses, and these in 
 their turn extended their journeys to the ocean ; or, to use 
 their disparaging epithet, the Great Stinking Lake, where 
 they traded with white people, who came in canoes as large 
 as islands. Their knowledge of the country, however, ap- 
 peared so vague, that all hope of procuring a guide was 
 vain, and the heart of the traveller sank within him as he 
 felt that his favourite project was on the point of being 
 utterly disconcerted. 
 
 Amid this despondency a faint hope remained that the 
 natives, under the influence of suspicion, timidity, or from 
 imperfectly understanding the interpreter, had not commu- 
 nicated all they knew; and after a night sleepless from 
 anx^'ety, the traveller rose with the sun to repeat his in- 
 quiries. At first nothing satisfactory could be elicited ; but 
 suddenly, Mackenzie, who stood beside the interpreters, 
 
 f 
 
MANNERS OP iTHfi ^DtANS. 
 
 lar 
 
 tInJewtooJ, from the few words he know of their IangfUR|Efe« 
 that one person mentioned a great river, while he pointed 
 significantly to that which lay before them. On a strict 
 inquiry, the interpreter, who had been tired of the voyage, 
 and of whose fidelity some suspicion was entertained, ac- 
 knowledged that the Indian spoke of a large river whose 
 course was towards the mid-day sun, a branch of which 
 flowed near the source of the stream they were now navi- 
 gating. This branch, he added, it would not be difficult 
 to reach, there being only three small lakes and as many 
 carrying-places on the way to it ; but he also insisted that 
 the great river did not discharge itself into the sea.* This 
 last assertion was imputed to his ignorance of the country, 
 while a rude map, which he deUneated with a piece of 
 coal on a strip of bark, convinced thbrn that his information, 
 so for as it went, was to be relied on. A new ray of hope 
 now arose ; and having induced an Indian to go forward as 
 a guide to the borders of the small lakes, Mackenzie re- 
 sumed his journey on 10th June, promising, if successful 
 in his object, to revisit these friendly Indians in two moons. 
 These people were of low stature and meager frame, 
 owing probably to the difficulty of procuring subsistence ; 
 round faces, high cheek-bones, black hair hanging in elf- 
 locks over their shoulders, and a swarthy yellow com- 
 plexion, combined to give them a forbidding aspect ; while 
 their garments of beaver, rein-deer, and ground-hog skins, 
 dressed with the hair outside, having the tail of this last 
 animal hanging down the back, might, when seen at a dis- 
 tance, occasion some doubt whether they belonged to the 
 human race. Their women were extremely ugly, lustier 
 and taller than the men, but much inferior in cleanliness. 
 Their warlike weapons were cedar bows, six feet long, with 
 a short iron spike at one end, so that they might also be 
 used as spears. The arrows were barbed with irr n, flint, 
 stone, or bone, from two to two feet and a half long, and 
 feathered with great neatness. They had two kinds of 
 spears, both double-edged, of well-polished iron, and with 
 shafts from six to eight feet long. Their knives were of 
 iron worked by themselves, and their axes resembled a car- 
 penter's adze. They used snares of green skin, nets and 
 
 * Mackenzie, p. 303, 204. 
 
 
h . ' .t 
 
 I 
 
 H 
 
 \ 
 
 ■1: 
 
 hi 
 
 I 
 
 ff 
 
 i.-' 
 
 
 1-^ 
 
 li I 
 
 138 
 
 CANOE WRECKED. 
 
 fishing-lines of willow-bark, hooks of small bones, and 
 kettles of watape so closely woven as not to leak. Besides 
 these they had various dishes of wood and bark, horn and 
 wooden spoons and buckets, and leathern and net-work bags. 
 Their canoes, of spruce-bark, calculated to hold from two 
 to five persons, were propelled by paddles six feet long, with 
 the blade shaped like a heart. ^ 
 
 Pursuing their journey under the direction of the new 
 guide, they reached a small lake in latitude 54° 24', which 
 Mackenzie considered as the highest or southernmost source 
 of the Ungigah or Peace River. They passed two other 
 lakes, and again entered the river, the navigation of which, 
 from its rapidity and the trees and rocks in its channel, now 
 became dangerous. The canoe struck on a sharp rock, 
 which shattered the stem, and drove her to the other side, 
 where the bow met the same fate ; to complete the disaster, 
 she passed at this moment over a cascade, which broke 
 several holes in her bottom, and reduced her to a complete 
 wreck, lying flat upon the water. All hands now jumped 
 out, and clinging desperately to the sides, were hurried 
 several hundred yards through a foaming torrent beset with 
 sharp rocks, upon which they were every instant in danger 
 of being dashed to pieces. Being carried, however, into 
 shallow water, where the canoe rested on the stones, they 
 were relieved from their perilous situation by their com- 
 panions on shore. 
 
 After this escape, a consultation was held regarding their 
 future proceedings. Benumbed with cold, and intimidated 
 by their recent dangers, the Indians proposed an immediate 
 return ; but the remonstrances of their leader, enforced by 
 the usual arguments of a hearty meal and an allowance of 
 rum, banished their fears. It was next proposed to aban- 
 don the wreck, to carry the baggage to the river, which the 
 guide affirmed to be at no great distance, and there to con- 
 struct a new vessel. But as it was suspected that this rep- 
 resentation was not to be relied on, a party was despatched 
 to reconnoitre, and brought back a very confused and un- 
 promising account of the country. It was therefore de- 
 termined to repair the canoe, and proceed as before. For 
 this purpose bark was collected, which, with a few pieces 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 905, 206. 
 
 
MACKENZIE REACHES THE GREAT RIVER. 139 
 
 mes, and 
 Besides 
 horn and 
 vorkbags. 
 I from two 
 long»with 
 
 ,f the new 
 24', which 
 aost source 
 
 two other 
 1 of which, 
 lannel, now 
 sharp rock, 
 
 other side, 
 the disaster, 
 yhich broke 
 > a complete 
 low jumped 
 rere hurried 
 it beset with 
 rtt in danger 
 owever, into 
 
 stones, they 
 ' their com- 
 
 rarding their 
 _' intimidated 
 m immediate 
 
 enforced by 
 allowance of 
 jed to aban- 
 jr, which the 
 Ithere to con- 
 Ihat this rep- 
 Is despatched 
 Ised and un- 
 Iherefore de- 
 Ibefore. For 
 
 a few pieces 
 
 of oil-cloth and plenty of gum, restored their shattered boat 
 to something like a sea-worthy condition. Her frail state, 
 however, rendered it necessary to carry part of the lading 
 on men^s shoulders along the banks ; and as a road had 
 to be opened with hatchets, their progress was extremely 
 slow. 
 
 On 16th June, Mr. Mackay and two Indians were des- 
 patched with orders to penetrate if possible to the great 
 river in the direction indicated by the guide. They suc- 
 ceeded ; but returned with a discouraging account of the in- 
 terminable woods and deep morasses which intervened. 
 These gloomy prospects were increased by the desertion 
 of their guide ; but nothing could repress Mackenzie's ar- 
 dour. Cutting a passage through the woods, carrying the 
 canoe round the rapids and cascades, they held on their slow 
 and toilsome way, till at last, after passing a swamp, in many 
 places wading to mid-thigh, they enjoyed the satisfaction of 
 reaching the bank of the great river, which had been the 
 object of so much anxious expectation and protracted hope.^ 
 
 Embarking anew, they were borne along by a strong 
 current, which, slackening after a short time, allowed them 
 to glide gently between banks of high white cliffs, sur- 
 mounted with grotesque and singularly-shaped pinnacles. 
 After some progress, the party were alarmed by a loud 
 whoop from the thick woods ; at the same moment a canoe 
 guided by a single savage shot out from the mouth of a 
 small tributary stream, and a number of natives, armed 
 with bows and arrows, appeared on an adjacent rising 
 ground, uttering loud cries, and manifesting by their gestures 
 that instant death would be inflicted on any one who landed. 
 Every attempt to conciliate them proved unavailing ; and a 
 canoe was observed to steal swiftly down the river, with the 
 evident design of communicating the alarm and procuring 
 assistance. At this critical moment the courage and pru- 
 dence of Mackenzie providentially saved his party. He 
 landed alone, with two pistols stuck in his belt ; having 
 first, however, given orders to one of his Indians to steal 
 into the woods with a couple of guns, and to keep near him 
 in case of attack. " I had not been long," says he, " in 
 my station on the bank, with my Indian in ambush behind me, 
 
 hi 
 
 I 
 
 
 * Mackenaie^s Travels, p. 338. 
 

 140 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES. 
 
 1' 
 
 
 when two of the natives came off in a canoe, but stopped 
 when they got within one hundred yards of me. I made 
 signs for them to land, and as an inducement displayed 
 looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring trinkets. At 
 length, but with every mark of extreme apprehension, they 
 approached the shore, taking care to turn their canoe stern 
 foremost, and still not venturing to land. I now made them a 
 present of some beads, with which they were going to push 
 off, when I renewed my entteaties, and after some time pre-* 
 vailed on them to come ashore and sit down by me* My 
 Indian hunter now thought it right to join me, and created 
 some alarm in my new acquaintance. It was, however, 
 soon removed, and I had the satisfaction to find that he and 
 these people perfectly understood each other. I instructed 
 him to say every thing to them which might tend to sooth 
 their fears and win their confidence. I expressed my wish 
 to conduct them to our canoe ; but they declined this offer : 
 and when they observed some of my people coming to- 
 wards us, they requested me to let them return, and I was 
 60 well satisfied with the progress which I had made in my 
 intercourse with them^ that I did not hesitate a moment in 
 complying with their desire. During their short stay they 
 observed us, and every thing about us, with j^ mixture of 
 admiration and astonishment, We could plainly perceive 
 that their friends received them with great joy on their 
 return, and that the articles which they carried hack with 
 them were examined with a general and eager cunosity : 
 they also appeared to hold a consultation which lasted about 
 a quarter of an hour, and the result was an invitation to 
 come over to them, which we cheerfully accepted. Never- 
 theless, on our landing, they betrayed evident signs of con- 
 fusion, which arose probably from the quickness of our move- 
 ments, as the prospect of a friendly communication had so 
 cheered the spirits of the people that they paddled across 
 the river with the utmost expedition. The two men who 
 had been with us appeared very naturally to possess the 
 greatest share of courage on the occasion, and were ready 
 to receive us on our landing ; but our demeanour soon dis- 
 pelled their apprehensions, and the most familiar communi- 
 cation took place between us. When I had secured their 
 confidence by the distribution of trinkets among them, and 
 bad treated the children wi^h sugar, I instructed my inter? 
 
AMERICAN COSMOGRAPHY. 
 
 141 
 
 lit stopped 
 , I ma<le 
 displayed 
 kets. At 
 ision, they 
 anoe stern 
 ade them a 
 ing to push 
 ie time pre* 
 y me. My 
 ind created 
 s, however, 
 that he and 
 I instructed 
 nd to sooth 
 sed my wish 
 d this offer : 
 coming to- 
 ti, and I was 
 made in my 
 a moment in 
 Lort stay they 
 \ mixture of 
 inly perceive 
 joy on their 
 Led hack with 
 ■er curiosity : 
 ' I lasted about 
 invitation to 
 ited. Never- 
 signs of con- 
 sofourmove- 
 lation had so 
 [addled across 
 o men who 
 , possess the 
 [d were ready 
 pur soon dis- 
 |iar communi- 
 secured their 
 ng them, and 
 [ted my inter-; 
 
 preters to collect every necessary information in their power 
 to afford me."* 
 
 The intelligence procured from this tribe was discourag- 
 ing. They stated, indeed, that the river ran towards the 
 mid-day sun, and that at its mouth white people were build- 
 ing houses ; but that the navigation was dangerous, and in 
 three places absolutely impassable, owing to the falls and 
 rapids. The nations through whose territories the route 
 lay they represented as ferocious and malignant, especially 
 their immediate neighbours, who dwelt in subterranean 
 houses. Unappalled by this description, Mackenzie re-em- 
 barked, and he was accompanied by a small canoe, with two 
 persons who consented to act as guides. Coming to a 
 place where some savage-looking people were seen on a 
 high ground, it was thought expedient to land, and an ami- 
 cable interview took place, which led to important conse- 
 quences. On explaining the object of the journey, one of 
 the natives, of superior rank and intelligence, drew a sketch 
 of the country on a piece of bark, appealing during his labour 
 to his companions, and accompanying the rude but perfectly 
 intellif4b> ^ map by details as to their future voyage. He 
 describe ^ ■'. iver as running to the east of south, receiving 
 in its cotfr 'aany tributary streams, and broken every six 
 or eight leagues by dangerous falls and rapids, six of which 
 were altogether impracticable. The carrying-places he 
 represented as of great length across mountains. He de- 
 picted the lands of three tribes in succession, who spoke 
 different languages ; and concluded by saying that beyond 
 them he knew nothing of the country, except that it was 
 still a great way to the sea, and that there was a lake of 
 which the natives did not drink.t 
 
 While the route by water was thus said to be impractica- 
 ble, they asserted that the road across the country to the 
 ocean was short in comparison, and lay along a valley free 
 from wood, and frequently travelled. Other considerations 
 combined to recommend this latter course to Mackenzie : 
 only thirty days' provisions were left, and the supply pro- 
 cured by hunting was very precarious. The ammunition 
 was nearly spent ; and ir the prosecution of the voyage 
 appeared perilous, a return would have been equally so. 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p, 244 245. t ^Wrf. p. 253. 
 
11:1/1 
 
 
 142 
 
 OVERLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 I 
 
 \ r I 
 
 'M 
 
 Under these circumslances, it was resolved to abandon the 
 canoe, and to penetrate overland to the Western Ocean. 
 
 To arrive at the spot where they were to strike off across 
 the country, it was necessary to return a considerable way 
 up the river,— a service of great danger, owing to th6 
 shattered condition of the boat and the hostile dispositions 
 of the natives, who were apt to change in an instant from 
 the greatest friendliness to unmitigated rage and suspicion. 
 The guides deserted them, and it became absolutely neces- 
 sary to build a new canoe. She proved better than the old 
 one, and they at last reached the point whence they were to 
 start overland. "We carried on our backs," says Mac- 
 kenzie, " four bags and a half of pemmican, weighing from 
 eighty-five to ninety-five pounds each, a case with the in- 
 struments, a parcel of goods for presents, weighing ninety 
 pounds, and a parcel containing ammunition of the same 
 weight ; each of the Canadians had a burden of about 
 ninety pounds, with a gun and ammunition, while the In- 
 dians had about fortyrfive pounds' weight of pemmican, be- 
 sides their gun,-r~an obligation with which, owing to their 
 having been treated with too much indulgence, they ex- 
 pressed themselves much dissatisfied. My own load and 
 that of Mr. Mackay consisted of twenty-two pounds of 
 pemmican, some rice, sugar, and other small articles, 
 amounting to about seventy pounds, besides our arms and 
 ammunition. The tube of my telescope was also slung 
 across my shoulder ; " and owing to the low state of our pro- 
 visions, it was determined that we should content ourselves 
 with two meals a-day."* 
 
 Thus laden, they struck into the woods, and travelled 
 along a tolerably beaten path, arrived before night at some 
 Indian tents, where they were joined by an elderly man 
 and three other natives. The old man held in his hand a 
 spear of European manufacture, like a sergeant's halberd, 
 which he stated he had lately received from some people on 
 the seacoast, to whom it had been given by white men. He 
 added, that those heavily laden did not take more than six 
 days to reach the tribes with whom he and his friends bar- 
 tered their furs and skins for iron, and that thence it was 
 scarcely two days' march to the sea. He recommended 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 285. 
 
 
FEMALE NATIVE OF THE SEACOAST. 
 
 143 
 
 t)andon the 
 Ocean. 
 3 off across 
 er»^ble way 
 ing to the 
 lispositions 
 ristant from 
 1 suspicion, 
 itely neces- 
 han the old 
 they were to 
 
 says Mac- 
 jighing from 
 with the in- 
 rhing ninety 
 of the same 
 len of about 
 hile the In- 
 -mmican, be- 
 ring to their 
 ce, they ex- 
 iwn load and 
 o pounds of 
 aall articles, 
 our arms and 
 also slung 
 .e of our pro- 
 
 ent ourselves 
 
 and travelled 
 light at some 
 elderly man 
 in his hand a 
 nt's halberd, 
 me people on 
 ite men. He 
 nore than six 
 friends bar- 
 hence it was 
 ecommended 
 
 also that, while they retired to sleep, two young Indians 
 should be sent forward to warn the different tribes whose 
 territories they were approaching, — a precaution which had 
 the best effects. Another pleasing distinction between their 
 present hosts and the other savages whom they had passed 
 soon presented itself : when the weary travellers lay down 
 to rest the Indians took their station at a little distance, and 
 began a song in a sweet plaintive tone, unaccompanied by 
 any instrument, but with a modulation exceedingly pleasing 
 and solemn, not unlike that of church-music. The cir- 
 cumstance may remind the reader of the descriptions of 
 American music given by Mr. Meares and Captain Bumey, 
 which it strikingly corroborates. 
 
 Having procured two guides, they now proceeded through 
 an open country sprinkled with cypresses, and joined a 
 family of the natives. The father, on hearing their in- 
 tention of penetrating to the ocean, pointed to one of his 
 wives who was a native of the seacoast ; her appearance 
 differed from the females they had hitherto seen. She was 
 of low stature, inclined to corpulency, with an oblong face, 
 gray eyes, and a flattish nose. Her garments (3dnsisted of a 
 tunic covered with a robe of matted bark, fringed rouiid the 
 bottom with the beautiful fur of the sea-otter. She Wore 
 bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, while her hair was 
 braided with large blue beads, and her ears and neck adorned 
 with the same. With these people age seemed to be an 
 object of great veneration ; they carried an old woman by 
 turns upon their backs, who was quite blind and infirm. 
 The country appeared well peopled, and the natives, though 
 at first alarmed, were soon conciliated by the guides. In 
 some places they observed chains of small lakes, the valleys 
 were verdant and watered with pleasant rivulets, and the 
 scenery varied by groves of cypress and poplar, in which 
 they were surprised to see no animals. The inhal itants 
 indeed seemed to live exclusively on fish ; and the people 
 of one small settlement containing thirteen families were 
 denominated, in the language of the country, Sloa-cuss- 
 Dinais, or Red Fish Men. They were healthy looking, and 
 more provident, cleanly, and comfortable than the neigh« 
 bouring tribes. 
 
 One of Mackenzie's greatest and most frequent perplex- 
 ities arose out of the sudden fits of caprice and change of 
 
 ^ 
 
 J 
 
f 
 
 144 
 
 TERROR OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 ■iP' 
 
 * 
 
 
 purpose which characterize most savages, but none more 
 than the Americans. An example of this now occurred : 
 the guides, upon whose fidelity the success of the expedition 
 mainly depended, were advancing apparently in the most 
 contented and friendly manner, when, in a moment, without 
 uttering a word, they sprang forward, and disappeared in 
 the woods, leaving the party, who were utterly unacquainted 
 with the route, in a state bordering on despair.* Pushing 
 forward, however, at a hazard, they perceived a house 
 situated on a green spot by the edge of a wood, the smoke 
 of which curled above the trees, intimating that it was in- 
 habited. Mackenzie advanced alone, as his party were too 
 much alarmed to second his intrepidity ; and so intent were 
 the inhabitants upon their household labours, that he ap- 
 proached unperceived. Nothing could exceed the terror 
 and confusion occasioned by his sudden appearance. The 
 women and children uttered piercing shrieks, and the only 
 man about the place sprang out of a back-door with the 
 rapidity of a wild-cat, and fled into the woods. Their dis- 
 may arose from the belief that they were surprised by ene- 
 mies, and would be instantly put to death ; an atrocity too 
 common among the Indian tribes. The conduct of the man 
 who had fled was amusing : by degrees he crept sufliciently 
 near to watch the party ; and on observing the kindness with 
 which the women and children were treated, came cautiously 
 within speaking distance. His eyes were still staring in 
 his head. No assurances of the interpreters or the women 
 could persuade him to return ; no beads, knives, or presents 
 of any kind had the effect of restoring his confidence. On 
 being approached, he keptdodging about behind large trees, 
 brandishing his bow and arrows, grinning hideously, and 
 displaying a variety of strange antics, till at last, in one of 
 his paroxysms, he dived into a thicket and disappeared. 
 As suddenly he emerged in an opposite quarter, and becom- 
 ing pacified, after a succession of parleys, agreed to ac- 
 company them as a guide. 
 
 On advancing from this station, they travelled over an ele- 
 vated tract, and at length gained the summit of a hill, af- 
 fording a view of a range of mountains covered with snow ; 
 which, according to the guide, terminated in the ocean. 
 
 ♦ Mackenzie's TrayelH, p 302. 
 
 1. i 
 
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 
 
 145 
 
 Passing along the borders of several small Iflces, through 
 a swampy country, they arrived at a lodge of natives, who 
 received them with hospitality, and minutely scrutinized 
 their appearance. The hair of the women was tied in large 
 loose knots over the ears, and plaited with great neatness 
 from the division of the head, so as to be included in the 
 knots : some had their tresses adorned with beads, produc- 
 ing a very graceful effect ; while the men were clothed in 
 leather, their hair nicely combed, their complexion fair, and 
 their skin cleanly. One young man was at least six feet 
 four inches in height, with r ^^repossessing countenance, and 
 affable anddignifie^ lai. ^ All, not exccj''..' the chil- 
 dren, carried a bura«.«i pro(...aoned to their si^ngth, con- 
 sisting of beaver-coating and parchment, skins of the otter, 
 marten, bear, and lynx, besides dressed moose-skins. These 
 last they procured from the Rocky Mountain Indians ; and 
 for the purposes of trade the people of the seacoast preferred 
 them to any others. 
 
 They now continued their journey through a beautiful 
 valley, watered by a gentle rivulet, to a range of hills which 
 they ascended till surrounded by snow so firm and compact 
 that it crunched under their feet. Before them lay a stu- 
 pendous mountain, whose summit, clad with the same spot- 
 less coronet, was partly lost in the clouds. Between it and 
 the route they were to follow flowed a broad river ; and de- 
 scending from their present elevated ground, they plunged 
 into woods of lofty and umbrageous cedars and alder-trees.* 
 As they got lower into these primeval forests they were 
 sensible of an entire ch ■ '\c of climate. The guides pointed 
 out to them, through the openings in the dark foliage, the 
 river which flowed in the distance, and a village on its 
 banks, while beneath their feet the ground was covered 
 with berries of an excellent flavour, and completely ripe. 
 The effect of sunset upon this noble scenery was strikingly 
 beautiful ; but their admiration was interrupted by the de- 
 campment of their guides, who, as the shades of evening 
 began to fall, pushed forward at such a pace that the party 
 were soon left without conductors in darkness and uncer- 
 tainty. The men, who were much fatigued, now proposed 
 to take up their quarters for the night ; but their indefatiga- 
 
 * Maekenzle's Travels, p. 316, 217. 
 
 N 
 
HO 
 
 SALMON FISHERY. 
 
 ,11 
 ^1 i 
 
 ble leader grapcU his way forwarJ, and at length, arriving 
 at the edge of the wood, perceived the light of several fires. 
 On coming up he entered a hut where the people were em- 
 
 Eloyed in cooking fish, threw down his burden, and thook 
 ands with the inmates, who did not show any surprise, but 
 gave him to understand by signs < ^ it he should go to a large 
 house, erected on upright posts at some distance from the 
 ground. A broad piece of timber, with steps cut in it, led 
 to a scaffolding on a level with the floor ; and ascending 
 these, the traveller entered the apartment, passed three fires 
 at equal distances in the middle of the room, and was cor- 
 dially received by several people seated on a wide board at 
 the upper end. Mackenzie took his place beside one whom, 
 from his dignified look, he took to be the chief. Soon after 
 the rest of the party arrived, and placed themselves near 
 him ; upon which the chief arose and brought a quantity of 
 roasted salmon. Mats were then spread, and the fish placed 
 before them. When the meal was concluded, their host 
 made signs which they supposed to convey a desire that 
 they should sleep under the same roof with himself ; but, as 
 his meaning was not sufficiently plain, they prepared to 
 bivouac without. Every V 'ng was done to render their re- 
 pose agreeable : a fire wa mdled, boards placed that they 
 might not sleep on the bare ground, and two delicate dishes 
 of salmon-roes, beat up to the consistency of thick cream, 
 and mixed with gooseberries and wood-sorrel, were brought 
 for sujpper. On awaking in the morning, they found all 
 their wants anticipated in the same hospitable manner ; a 
 fire was already blazing, a plentiful breakfast of roasted 
 salmon and dried roes was provided, and a regale of rasp- 
 berries, whortleberries, and gooseberries finished the meal.* 
 Salmon was so abundant in this river that the people had 
 a constant supply. They had formed across the stream an 
 embankment for placing fishing machines, which were dis- 
 posed both above and below it. For some reason, however, 
 they would permit no near inspection of the weir ; but it 
 appeared to be four feet above the water, and was constructed 
 of alternate layers of gravel and small trees, fixed in a 
 slanting position. Beneath it were placed machines into 
 whicjh the salmon fell in attempting to leap over; an4 on 
 
 Mackenzie's Travels, p. 31&-820. 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 arriving 
 jTal fites. 
 jvere em- 
 nd Aook 
 
 to a large 
 
 , ftom the 
 tinit,}ed 
 ascending 
 , three fires 
 d was cor- 
 [e board at 
 one whom» 
 Soon after 
 selves near 
 quantity of 
 e fish placed 
 , their host 
 desire that 
 self; but, as 
 prepared to 
 ider their re- 
 ;ed that they 
 Blicate dishes 
 thick cream, 
 were brought 
 ley found all 
 B manner; a 
 St of roasted 
 gale of rasp- 
 ed the meal.* 
 he people had 
 the stream an 
 lich were dis- 
 tson, however, 
 
 weir ; but it 
 as constructed 
 
 ^s, fixed in a 
 [machines mto 
 ' over ; ^M «» 
 
 SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 147 
 
 either side was a large timber frame six feet above the water, 
 in which passages were left leading directly into the ma- 
 chines, while at the foot of the fall dipping nets were suc- 
 cessfully employed. These people were observed to indulge 
 an extreme superstition regarding their fish, refusing to 
 taste flesh, and appearing to consider such an act as pollu- 
 tion. One of their dogs, having swallowed a bone which 
 the travellers left, was beaten by his master till he disgorged 
 it ; and a bone of a deer being thrown into the river, a 
 native dived, brought it up, consigned it to the fire, hi .1 
 carefully washed his hands. They would not lend their 
 canoes for the use of the party, having observed some 
 venison which they concluded was to be stowed on board ; 
 and they alleged that the fish would immediately smell it and 
 leave them. Although generous in furnishing the strangers 
 with as much roasted fish as they could consume, they 
 would part with none in a raw state. They believed salmon 
 to have an invincible antipathy to iron, and were afraid that, 
 if given raw to the white men, they might take serious of- 
 fence at being boiled in a vessel of this ominous metal. In 
 other respects nothing could exceed their friendliness ; and 
 at a neighbouring village belonging to the same tribe, the 
 reception of Mackenzie was, if possible, still more kind. 
 The son of the chief took from his own shoulders a beauti- 
 ful robe of sea-otter skin, and threw it over the traveller, 
 while the father expressed the utmost satisfaction in being 
 presented with a pair of scissors to clip his beard, — a pur- 
 pose to which, with the eager delight of a child, he instantly 
 applied them. 
 
 The houses in this village were constructed in the same 
 way as those already described, and remind us of the lively 
 account given by Mr. Meares. At a little distance, Mac- 
 kenzie observed some singular wooden buildings, which he 
 conjectured to be temples. They consisted of oblong 
 squares, about twenty feet high by eight broad, formed of 
 thick cedar-planks beautifully joined. Upon these were 
 painted hieroglyphics and figures of various animals, with 
 a remarkable degree of correctness. In the midst of the 
 village was a large building, at first supposed to be the un- 
 finished frame-work of a house. Its dimensions, however, 
 were far greater than those of an ordinary dwelling, the 
 ground-plot being fitty feet by forty-five, each end formed 
 
 
I 
 
 148 
 
 MACKENZIE REACHES THE SEA. 
 
 by four stout posts, fixed perpendicularly in the earth. The 
 corner posts were unomamented, and supported a beam of 
 the whole length, having three intermediate props on each 
 side. Two centre posts at each end, about two feet and a 
 half in diameter, were carved into colossal human figures, 
 supporting ridge-poles on their heads ; the hands were 
 placed on the knees, as if they felt diiliculty in sustaining 
 the weight, while the figures opposite to them stood in an 
 easy attitude, with their hands resting on their hips. The 
 posts, poles, and figures were painted red and black, 
 and the carving was executed with a truth and boldness 
 which bespoke no little advancement in sculpture.^ In the 
 mechanical arts they had arrived at considerable perfection. 
 The chief's canoe was of cedar, forty-five feet long, four 
 wide, and three feet and a half deep. It was painted black, 
 and ornamented with drawings of various kinds of fish in 
 white upon the dark ground, and the gunwale, both fore 
 and afl, was neatly inlaid with the teeth of the sea-otter. 
 In this vessel, according to the old chief's account, he un- 
 dertook, about ten winters before, a voyage towards the 
 mid-day sun, having with him forty of his subjects ; on 
 which occasion he met with two large vessels full of white 
 men, the first he had seen, by whom he was kindly received. 
 Mackenzie very plausibly conjectured that these might be 
 the ships of Captain Cook. 
 
 It was now the 18th of July, and, surrounded by friendly 
 natives, with plenty of provisions, pleasant weather, and the 
 anticipation of speedily reaching the great object of their 
 wishes, they resumed their voyage in a large canoe, accom- 
 panied by four of the Indians. The navigation of the river, 
 as they approached the ocean, was interrupted by rapids and 
 cascades ; but their skill in surmounting these impediments 
 was now considerable, and on the 20th, after a passage of 
 thirty-six miles, they arrived at the mouth of the river, 
 which discharges itself by various smaller channels into an 
 arm of the Pacific Ocean. The purpose of the expedition 
 was now completed, and its indefatigable leader painted in 
 large characters, upon the face of the rock under whose 
 shelter they had slept, this simple memorial : *^ Alexander 
 Mackenzie, from Canada by land, the twenty-second of July, 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 331 
 
 ';^i; 
 
FRANKLIN^S FIRST JOURNEY. 
 
 149 
 
 one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." Thd in- 
 scription was only written in vermillion, and has probably 
 long ago been washed away by the fury of the elements ; but 
 the name of Mackenzie is enduringly consecrated in the 
 annals of discovery, as the first person who penetrated from 
 sea to sea across the immense continent of North America* 
 His return by the same route it is unnecessary to pursue. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Discoveries along the Shores of the Arctic Ocean, 
 
 First and Second Expeditions or Franklin— Voyage of Captain Beechey. 
 
 The discoveries of Hearne and Mackenzie established the 
 great fact that there is a northern coast in America, washed 
 by the Arctic Ocean, which forms, in all probability, its con- 
 tinuous boundary ; and they demonstrated the practicability 
 of reaching this limit by passing over the vast plains which 
 stretch northward from Canada and Hudson's Bay. The 
 voyages of Captain Parry, also, which have been already 
 detailed,* fully corroborated this opinion ; and it appeared 
 evident that another expedition, properly conducted, might 
 reach this shore, and more fully examine its whole extent. 
 Such an expedition, accordingly, sailed from England on the 
 23d of May, 1820, its command beinv intrusted to Lieute- 
 nant, now Sir John Franklin, assisted by Dr. Richardson, 
 an able mineralogist and natural historian. During the first 
 portion of their journey, they followed the chain of the great 
 lakes, instead of the more eastern track pursued by Heame, 
 and having descended the Coppermine River, arrived on 
 21st July, at the shore of the Arctic Ocean, where they 
 commenced their career of discovery. Important as were 
 the particulars of thbir survey, when considered in relation 
 to the furtherance of geographicnl science, a minute detail 
 is here unnecessary, and we shall attempt only a general 
 •ketch. 
 
 } 
 
 * Polar Seas and Regions, p. 3{&-2a9i. 
 
 N2 
 
-,l« -VHy^-w^--. 
 
 » 
 
 h 
 
 ij 
 
 160 VOYAGE ALONG THE ARCTIC SHORES. 
 
 Paddling along the coast to the eastwardt on the insid« 
 of a crowded range of islands, they encamped on shore 
 after a run of thirty-seven miles, in which they experienced 
 little interruption, and saw only a small iceberg in the dis- 
 tance, though that beautiful luminous eflfulgence emitted 
 from the congregated ices, and distinguished by the name 
 of the ice-blink, was distinctly visible to the northward. 
 The coast was found of moderate height, easy of access, and 
 covered with vegetation ; but the islands were rocky and 
 barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. In 
 continuing their voyage, the dangers which beset a naviga- 
 tor in these dreadful polar solitudes thickened gloomily 
 around them : the coast became broken and steril, and at 
 length rose into a high and rugged promontory, against 
 which some large masses of ice had drifted, threatening 
 destruction to their slender canoes. In attempting to round 
 this cape the wind rose, an awful gloom involved the sky, 
 and the thunder burst over their heads, compelling them to 
 encamp till the storm subsided. They then, at the immi- 
 nent risk of having the canoes crushed by the floating ice, 
 doubled the dreary promontory, which they denominated 
 Cape Barrow, and entered Detention Harbour, where they 
 landed. Around them the land consisted of mountains of 
 granite, rising abruptly from the water's edge, destitute of 
 vegetation, and attaining an elevation of 1400 or 1500 feet ; 
 seals and small deer were the only animals seen, and the 
 former were so shy that all attempts to approach within 
 shot were unsuccessful. With the deer the hunters were 
 more fortunate : but these were not numerous ; and while 
 the ice closed gradually around them, and their little stock 
 of provisions, consisting of pemmican and cured beef, every 
 day diminished, it was impossible not to regard their situa- 
 tion with uneasiness. Rounding Cape Kater, they entered 
 Arctic Sound, and sent a party to explore a river upon the 
 banks of which they expected to find an Esquimaux encamp- 
 ment. All, however, was silent, desolate, and deserted : 
 even these hardy natives, bred amid the polar ices, had 
 removed from so barren a spot, and the hunters returned 
 with two small deer and a brown bear ; the latter animal so 
 lean and sickly-looking that the men declined eating it ; but 
 the officers boiled its paws, and found them excellent. 
 
 Proceeding along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, to 
 
» « 
 
 
 
 TERMINATION OF THE VOYAGE. 
 
 161 
 
 Tvhich they gave the name of Bankes^s Peninsula, the expe- 
 dition made its painful way along a coast indented by bays, 
 and in many places studded with islands, till on 10th 
 August they reached the open sea ; and sailing, as they 
 imagined, between the continent and a large island, found 
 to their deep disappointment that, instead of an open chan- 
 nel, they were in ti.*^ centre of a vast bay. The state of 
 the expedition now called for the most serious consideration 
 upon the part of their commander. So much time had 
 already been spent in exploring the sounds a td inlets, that 
 all hope of reaching Repulse Bay was vain ; both can ^es 
 had sustained material injury ; the fuel was expended ; ihfit 
 provisions were sufficient only for three days ; the appear- 
 ances of the setting in of the arctic winter were too unequi- 
 vocal to be mistaken ; the deer, which had hitherto supplied 
 them with fresh meat, would, it was well known, soon dis- 
 appear ; the geese and other aquatic birds were alreat' y den 
 winging their way to the southward ; while the mei> v ho 
 had up to this moment displayed the utmost courage, began 
 to look disheartened, and to entertain serious apprehensions 
 for their safety. Under these circumstances, Franklin, with 
 the concurrence of his officers, determined not to endanger 
 the lives of his people by a farther advance ; and; after 
 spending four days in a minute survey pf the bay, it was 
 resolved to return by Hood's River to Fort Enterprise. 
 Franklin's researches, as far as prosecuted at this time, 
 favoured the opinion of those who contended for the practi- 
 cability of a north-west passage. It appeared probable that 
 the coast ran east and west in the latitude s^^igned to Mac- 
 kenzie's River, and little doubt could, ir lus op'.nion, be 
 entertained regarding the existence of a continued sea in 
 that direction. The portion over which they passed was 
 navigable for vessels of any size ; and the ice met with after 
 quitting Detention Harbour would not have arrested a strong 
 boat, while the chain of islands afforded shelter from all 
 heavy seas, and there were good harbours at convenient 
 distances. Having with v/iuch severe privation completed 
 their course from Point Tumagain in Melville Bay to the 
 entrance of Hood's River, they ascended as high as the first 
 rapid and encamped, terminating here their voyage on the 
 Arctic Sea, during which they had gone over 650 geogra- 
 phical miles. 
 
 n 
 
'.'SfKiSf'*>'iiV»t^''"W"' "iiw-jw".' 
 
 . ' t.r. . *_ 
 
 152 
 
 LAND JOtJRKEV. 
 
 
 On the prospect of commencing their land jommey the 
 Canadians could not conceal their satisfaction ; and the 
 evening previous to their departure was passed in talking 
 over their past adventures, and congratulating each other 
 in having at length turned their backs upon the sea,-— 
 little anticipating that the most painful and hazardous por- 
 tion of the expedition was yet to come. Before setting off, 
 an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and 
 other articles, were put up in a conspicuous situation for 
 the Esquimaux, and the English union was planted on the 
 loftiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships pass- 
 ing in the offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box a 
 letter containing an outline of the proceedings of the expe- 
 dition, the latitude and longitude of the principal places, 
 and the course intended to be pursued towards Slave Lake. 
 They now proceeded up the river in their canoes, and though 
 upon a short allowance of provisions, the produce of their 
 nets and fowling-pieces furnished for a few days enough to 
 ward off absolute want, but they were often on the very 
 brink of it. Their progress was much interrupted by shoals 
 and rapids, and one evening they encamped at the lower end of 
 a narrow chasm, the walls of which were upwards of 200 feet 
 high, and in some places only a few yards apart. Into this 
 the river precipitates itself, forming two magnificent cas- 
 cades, to which they gave the name of Wilberforce Falls. 
 On taking a survey of its farther course from a neighbour- 
 ing hill, it was discovered to be so rapid and shallow that 
 all progress in the large canoes seemed impossible. Two 
 smaller boats were therefore constructed ; and ou 1st Sep- 
 tember, they set off with the intention of proceeding in as 
 direct a line as possible to the part of Point Lake opposite 
 their spring encampment, — a distance which appeared com- 
 paratively trifling, being only 149 miles. Their luggage 
 consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice-chisels, astro- 
 nomical instruments, clothing-blankets, three kettles, and 
 the two canoes, each so light as to be carried easily by a 
 single man. But disaster attacked them in their very first 
 stage. A storm of snow came on, accompanied by a high 
 wind, against which it was difficult to carry the canoes, 
 that were damaged by the falls of those who bore them. 
 The ground was covered with small stones, and much pain 
 was endured by the carriers, whose soft moose*8kin shofef 
 
FAILURE OF PROVISIONS. 
 
 163 
 
 )irmey the 
 ; and the 
 in talking 
 each other 
 the sea, — 
 irdous por- 
 setting ofT, 
 lasses, and 
 tuation for 
 ited on the 
 ships pass- 
 i tin box a 
 f the expe- 
 pal places, 
 Slave Lake, 
 and though 
 tee of their 
 3 enough to 
 m the very 
 id by shoals 
 lower end of 
 , of 200 feet 
 ;. Into this 
 lificent cas- 
 *orce Falls, 
 neighbour- 
 allow that 
 lible. Two 
 in 1st Sep- 
 eding in as 
 e opposite 
 leared conx- 
 lir luggage 
 sels, astro- 
 lettles, and 
 jeasily by a 
 |r very first 
 by a high 
 le canoes, 
 tore them, 
 luch pain 
 ikin shoe* 
 
 were soon cut through. The cold was intense ; and on 
 encamping they looked in vain for wood ; a fire of moss 
 was all they could procure, which served them to cook 
 their supper, but gave so little heat that they were glad to 
 creep under their blankets.* 
 
 Having ascended next morning one of the highest hills, 
 they ascertained that the river took a westerly course, and 
 Franklin, thinking that to follow it farther would lead to a 
 more tedious journey than their exhausted strength could 
 endure, determined to quit its banks and make directly for 
 Point Lake. Emerging, therefore, from the valley, they 
 crossed a barren country, varied only by marshy levels and 
 small lakes. The weather was fine, but unfortunately 
 no berry-bearing plants were found, the surface being 
 covered in the more humid spots with a few grasses, and 
 in other places with some gray melancholy lichens. On 
 encamping, the last piece of pemmican, or pounded fiesh, 
 was distributed, with a little arrow-root, for supper. The 
 evening was warm ; but dark clouds overspread the sky, 
 and they experienced those sudden alternations of climate 
 which occur in the polar latitudes at this season. At mid- 
 night it rained in torrents ; but towards morning a snow- 
 storm arose, accompanied by a violent gale. During the 
 whole day the storm continued, and not having the comfort 
 of a fire the men remained in bed, but the tents were frozen ; 
 around them the snow had drifted to the depth of thrcfB feet, 
 and even within lay several inches thick on their blankets. 
 Though the storm had not abated any longer delay was im- 
 possible, for they knew every hour would increase the 
 intensity of an arctic winter ; and though faint from fasting, 
 and with their clothes stiffened by frost, it was absolutely 
 necessary to push forward. They suffered much in pack- 
 ing the frozen tents and bedclothes, and could hardly keep 
 their hands out of their fur mittens. On attempting to 
 move, Franklin was seized with a fainting fit, occasioned 
 by hunger and exhaustion, and on recovering refused to eat 
 a morsel of portable soup, which was immediately prepared 
 for him, as it had to be drawn from the only remaining 
 meal of the party. The people, however, kindly crowded 
 round, Eind overcame his reluctance. The efifect of eating 
 was his rapid recovery ; and the expedition moved oni 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 399. 
 
 ( ■ 
 
 
 SI 
 
 ^ B 
 
 tm 
 
 
 ;, 
 
 f 
 
 t 
 
 K' 
 
 'r 
 
 'W 
 
 1 
 
 
 ' 1 
 
 '! 'H': 
 
 < till 
 
154 
 
 RIVER CONGECATHAWHACHAOA. 
 
 Disaster now crowded on disaster. The wind rose so 
 high, that those who carried the canoes were frequently 
 blown down, and one of the boats was so much shattered 
 as to be rendered unserviceable. The ground was covered 
 with snow ; and though the swamps were frozen, yet the 
 ice was often not sufficiently strong ; so that they plunged 
 in knee-deep. A fire, however, was made of the bark and 
 timbers of the broken canoe ; and after having fasted three 
 days, their last meal of portable soup and arrow-root was 
 cooked. Each man^s allowance at this melancholy dinner 
 was exceedingly scanty ; but it allayed the pangs of hunger, 
 and encouraged them to press forward at a quicker rate. 
 They had now reached a more hilly country, strewed with 
 large stones, and covered with gray lichen, well known to 
 the Canadians by its name tripe de roche. In cases of ex- 
 tremity, it is boiled and eaten ; but its taste is nauseous, itd 
 quality purgative, and it sometimes produces an intolerable 
 griping and loathing. The party, not being aware of this, 
 gathered a considerable quantity. A few partridges also 
 had been shot; and at night some willows were dug up 
 from under the snow, with which they lighted a fire and 
 cooked their supper. 
 
 Next day they came to Cracroft's River, flowing to the 
 westward over a channel of large stones, that rendered it 
 impossible to cross in the canoe. No alternative was lefl but 
 to attempt a precarious passage over some rocks at a rapid ; 
 and in effecting this some of the men, losing their balance, 
 slipped into the water. They were instantly rescued by their 
 companions ; but so intense was the frost, that their drenched 
 clothes became caked with ice, and they suffered much 
 during the remainder of the day^s march. The hunters had 
 fallen in with some partridges, which they shot, and they 
 found enough of roots to make a fire ; so that their supper, 
 though scanty, was comparatively comfortable. Next morn- 
 ing they pushed forward with ardour, and passed the river 
 Congecathawhachaga of Mr. Hearne. The country which 
 lay before them was hilly, and covered with snow to a great 
 depth. The sides of the hills were traversed by sharp an- 
 gular rocks, where the drifted snow, filling up the interstices, 
 presented a smooth but fallacious surface, which often gave 
 way and precipitated them into the chasms with their heavy 
 loads. In this painful and arduous manner they struggled 
 
PROVIDENTIAL SUPPLY. 
 
 155 
 
 id rose so 
 frequently 
 shattered 
 as covered 
 jn, yet the 
 sy plunged 
 ,e bark and 
 isted three 
 w-root was 
 tioly dinner 
 I of hunger, 
 licker rate, 
 revved with 
 1 known to 
 ases of ex- 
 auseous, its 
 1 intolerable 
 rare of this, 
 tridges also 
 ere dug up 
 1 a fire and 
 
 forward several days, feeding on the tripe de roche, which 
 was so frozen to the rocks that their hands were benumbed 
 before a meal could be collected, and so destitute of nutri- 
 tive juices that it allayed hunger only for a very short time. 
 At length reaching the summit of a hill, they, to their great 
 delight, beheld a herd of musk-oxen feeding in the valley 
 below ; an instant halt was made, the best hunters were 
 called out, and while they proceeded with extreme caution 
 in a circuitous route, their companions watched their pro- 
 ceedings with intense anxiety. When near enough to open 
 their fire, the report reverberated through the hills, and one 
 of the largest cows was seen to fall. " This success," says 
 Franklin, in that simple and beautiful account of his journey 
 which any change of language would only weaken, " infused 
 spirit into our starving party. The contents of its stomach 
 were devoured upon the spot ; and the raw intestines, which 
 were next attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate 
 of the pjirty to be excellent. A few willows, whose tops 
 were seen peeping through the snow in the bottom of the 
 valley, were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper 
 cooked and devoured with avidity. It was the sixth day 
 since we had had a good meal. I do not think that we 
 witnessed, through the course of our journey, a more strik- 
 ing proof of the wise dispensation of the Almighty, and of 
 the weakness of our own judgment, than on this day. We 
 had considered the dense fog which prevailed throughout the 
 morning as almost the greatest inconvenience which could 
 have befallen us, since it rendered the air extremely cold, 
 and prevented us from distinguishing any distant object 
 towards which our course could be directed. Yet this very 
 darkness enabled the party to get to the top of the hill, 
 which bounded the valley wherein the musk-oxen were 
 grazing, without being perceived. Had the herd discovered 
 us and taken alarm, our hunters, in their present state of 
 debility, would in all probability have failed in approaching 
 them."* 
 
 On the following day a strong southerly wind blowing 
 with a snow-drift, they took a day's rest, and as only enough 
 remained of the musk-ox to serve for two days, they con- 
 tented themselves with a single meal. Next morning 
 
 I ^^ 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 * Fraakli&'s Joum«y, vol. It. p. 18, small edition of 1821^ 
 
 . tv 
 
 W 
 
156 
 
 SUFFERINGS FROM FAMINE. 
 
 MH " 
 
 ^ i1 
 
 K • * ■ 
 
 though the gale had not diminished, they pushed forward, 
 and notwithstanding their rest and recent supply of animal 
 food, the whole party felt greater weakness than they had 
 hitherto experienced. The weather was hazy, hut after an 
 hour's march the sky cleared, and they found themselves on 
 the borders of a lake, of which they could not discern the 
 termination in either direction. In these circumstar ces they 
 travelled along its banks to the westward, in sea ch of a 
 crossing-place. Credit, one of the Canadians, left t e party 
 in hopes of falling in with deer, but did not return ; and on 
 encamping in the evening, hungry and fatigued, the} had to 
 divide for supper a single partridge and some tripe de roche. 
 This weed from the first had been unpalatable, but now 
 became insupportably nauseous, and began in many to pro- 
 duce severe pains and bowel complaints, especially in Mr. 
 Hood, one of the young officers attached to the expedition. 
 This solitary partridge was the last morsel of animal food 
 that remained ; and they turned with deep anxiety to the 
 hope of catching some fish in the lake, but discovered that 
 the persons intrusted with them had jmprovidently thrown 
 away three of the nets and burnt the floats on leaving Hood's 
 River. Things now began to look very gloomy ; and as the 
 men were daily getting weaker, it was judged expedient to 
 lighten their burdens of every thing except ammunition, 
 clothing, and the instruments necessary to guide them on 
 their way. The dipping-needle, the azimuth compass, the 
 magiiet, a large thermometer, and the few books they car- 
 ried were therefore deposited at this encampment, after 
 they had torn out from these last the tables necessary for 
 working the latitude and longitude. Rewards also were 
 promised by Franklin to such of the party as should kill any 
 animals, and in the morning they prepared to go forward. 
 
 At this moment a fine trait of disinterestedness occurred : 
 as the ofiScers assembled round a small fire, enduring an 
 intense degree of hunger which they had no means of satis- 
 fying, Perrault, one of the Canadians, presented each of 
 them with a piece of meat out of a little store which he 
 had saved from his allowance. " It was received," says 
 Franklin, *< With great thankfulness, and such an instance 
 of delf-denial and kindness filled our eyes with tears." 
 Pressing forward to a river issuing from the lake, they met 
 their comrade Credit, and received the joyful intelligence 
 
 fv 
 
CANOE SWAMPED. 
 
 167 
 
 id forward, 
 of animal 
 [1 they had 
 ut after an 
 m selves on 
 aUcem the 
 tar ces they 
 ser ch of a 
 ;ftl e party 
 m ; and on 
 the) had to 
 pe de roche. 
 le, but now 
 lany to pro- 
 cially in Mr. 
 5 expedition, 
 animal food 
 ixiety to the 
 covered that 
 sntly thrown 
 avingHood*s 
 ; and as the 
 expedient to 
 ammunition, 
 ide them on 
 jompass, the 
 »ks they car- 
 Ipment, after 
 lecessary for 
 Is also were 
 ould kill any 
 ro forward. 
 Iss occurred : 
 [enduring an 
 bans of satis- 
 [ted each of 
 Ire which he 
 leived," says 
 an instance 
 ith tears." 
 [ke, they met 
 intelligence 
 
 that he had killed two deer. One of these was Immediately 
 cut up and prepared for breakfast ; and having sent some 
 of the party for the other, the rest proceeded down the river, 
 which was about 300 yards broad, in search of a place to 
 cross. Having chosen a spot wher * »he current was smooth, 
 immediately above a rapid, FranKlin and two Canadian 
 boatmen, St. Germain and Belanger, pushed from the shore. 
 The breeze was fresh, and the current stronger than they 
 imagined, so that they approached the very edge of the 
 jrapii ; and Belanger, employing his paddle to steady the 
 canoe, lost his balance, and overset the bark in the middle 
 of It. The party clung to its side, and reaching a rock 
 where the stream was but waist-deep, kept their footing till 
 the canoe was emptied of water, after which Belanger held 
 it steady while St. Germain replaced Franklin in it and 
 dexterously leaped in himself. Such was their situation, 
 thtt if the man who stood on the rock had raised his foot 
 they would have been lost. His friends therefore were 
 compelled to leave him, and after a second disaster, in which 
 the canoe struck, and was as expeditiously righted as before, 
 tliey reached the opposite bank. Meanwhile Belanger suf- 
 fered extremely, immersed to his middle, and enduring 
 intense cold. He called piteously for relief, and St. Ger- 
 main, re-embarking, attempted to reach him, but was hurried 
 down the rapid, and on coming ashore was so benumbed 
 ae to be incapable of further exertion. A second effort, 
 but equally unsuccessful, was made by Adam : they then 
 tried to carry out a line formed of the slings of the men's 
 ■lo&ds, but it broke, and was carried down the stream. At 
 last, when he was almost exhausted, the canoe reached him 
 with a small cord of cne of the remaining nets, and he was 
 dragged to shore quite insensible. On being stripped^ rolled 
 f - blankets, and put to bed between two men, he recovered. 
 Ihiring these operations Franklin was left alone upon the 
 bank, and it seemed a matter of the utmost doubt whether 
 he should be ever rejoined by his companions. " It is im- 
 possible," says he, " to describe my sensations as I witnessed 
 the various unsuccessful attempts to relieve Belanger. The 
 distance prevented my seeing distinctly what was going on, 
 and I continued pacing up and down the rock on which I 
 stood, regardless of the coldness of my drenched and stiffen 
 i|ig garments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach him, 
 
 
 u 
 
158 
 
 DESOLATE SITUATION. 
 
 V 
 
 ■^ 
 
 was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to view iunon|^ 
 the rocky islets with a fury which Reemod to threaten instant 
 destruction ; once indeed I fancied that I saw it overwhelmed 
 in the waves ; such an event would have been fatal to the 
 whole party. Separated as I was from my companions, 
 without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making & 
 fire, and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily 
 sealed. My companions, too, driven to the necessity of 
 coasting the lake, must have sunk under the fatigue of 
 rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which, as we* 
 learned afterward from the Indians, are extensive. By the- 
 goodness of Providence, however, we were spared at that 
 time, and some of us have been permitted to offer up our 
 thanksgiving in a civilized land for the signal deliverance we- 
 then and afterward experienced."* 
 
 On setting out next morning, Perrault brought in a ine- 
 male deer, which raised the spirits of the party, as it secured^ 
 them in provisions for two days ; and they trusted to sap- 
 port themselves for a third on the skin which they carried 
 with them. Having ascended the Willingham Mountains^ 
 they entered upon a rugged country intersected by deep ra- 
 vines, the passage of which was so difficult that they couJd 
 only make ten miles with great fatigue. The deer was now 
 picked to the last morsel, and they ate pieces of the singed' 
 hide with a little tripe de roche. At other times this m«9al 
 might have sufficed ; but, exhausted by slender food and 
 continued toil, their appetites had become ravenous. Hi th' 
 erto events had been so mercifully ordered that in their ut- 
 most need some little supply in the tripe de roche had ne rer 
 failed them ; but it was the will of God that their confideitce 
 should be yet more strongly tried ; for they now entered upon 
 a level country covered with snow, where even this raisei "a- 
 ble lichen was no longer to be found ; -and a bed of Icela: td 
 moss, which was boiled for supper, proved so bitter th at 
 none of the party, though enduring the extremities of hu B- 
 ger, could taste more than a few spoonfuls. Another di f- 
 tress now attacked them : the intensity of the cold i: V 
 creased, while they became less fit to endure it. The ir 
 blankets did not suffice to keep them warm, and the slightei it 
 breeze pierced through their debilitated frames. "TI)f 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 410, 411. 
 
INSUBORDINATION. 
 
 169 
 
 reader," sttys Franklin, " will probably be desirous to know 
 how we passed our time in such a comfortless situation. 
 The first operation after encamping was to thaw our frozen 
 shoes, if a sufficient fire could be made ; dry ones were then 
 put on. Each person then wrote his notes of the daily oc- 
 curretices, and evening prayers were read. As soon as sup- 
 per was prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and 
 we went to bed and kept up a cheerful conversation until 
 our blankets were thawed by the heat of our bodies, and we 
 had gathered sufficient warmth to enable us to fall asleep. 
 On many nights we had not even the luxury of going to bed 
 In dry clothes ; for, when the fire was insufficient to dry 
 (Mir shoes, we dared not venture to pull them ofT, lest they 
 flhould freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morn- 
 ing", and therefore inconvenient to carry."* 
 
 Hunger, fatigue, and disappointment began now to have 
 a cJBilamitous effect upon the tempers of the men. One, who 
 carried the canoe, after several severe falls, threw down his 
 burden, and obstinately refused to resume it. It was ac- 
 cordingly given to another, who proved stronger, and pushed 
 forward at so rapid a rate that Mr. Hood, whose weakness 
 was now extreme, could not keep up with them ; and as 
 Franklin attempted to pursue and stop them, the whole 
 party were separated. Dr. Richardson, who had remained 
 behind to gather tripe de roche, joined him, and on advanc- 
 ing they found the men encamped among some willows, 
 where they had found some pieces of skin and a few bones 
 of deer which had been devoured by the wolves. On these 
 they had made a meal, having burnt and pounded the bones, 
 boiled the »jkin, and added their old shoes to the mess. 
 With this no fault could be found ; but on questioning the 
 person to whom the canoe had been intrusted, it vr&a dis- 
 covered that he had left the boat behind, it having, as he 
 said, been broken by a fall and rendered entirely useless. 
 
 To the infatuated obstinacy of the men in refusing to re- 
 trace their steps and fetch it, even in its shattered state, is 
 to be ascribed much of the distress of their subsequent 
 journey. Every argument and entreaty seemed entirely 
 thrown away ; and they had apparently lost all hope of being 
 preserved. When the hunters, who had been out for some 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 414. 
 
 k 
 
7 
 
 
 
 'V J ', 
 
 felil i 
 
 160 
 
 THE COPPERMINE RIVER. 
 
 time, did not make their appearance, they became furious at 
 the idea of having been deserted, and throwing down their 
 bundles, declared they would follow them at all nazaids, and 
 leave the weakest to keep up as they best could. The re- 
 monstrances of the officers at length opened their minds to 
 the madiiess of such a scheme ; and on encamping in the 
 evening, they found some pines seven or eight feet high, 
 which furnished a comfortable fire, when they made their 
 supper on tripe de roche. Next morning a herd of deer 
 came in sight, and they killed five, — a supply which, con- 
 sidering the extremity of hunger and despair to which they 
 were reduced, was especially providential. It was evident 
 that He, without whom not a sparrow falls to the ground, 
 was with them in their extremity of distress ; and, casting 
 themselves upon his care, every heart expanded with hope 
 and gratitude. 
 
 The Canadians now earnestly petitioned for a day's rest. 
 They pleaded their recent sufferings, and that the enjoy- 
 ment of two substantial meals, after eight days* famme, 
 would enable them to press forward more vigorously. The 
 flesh, the skins, and even the stomachs of the deer were 
 accordingly equally divided among the party, and some of 
 them suffered severely from too free an indulgence in the 
 use of this food after so long an abstinence. Next morning 
 the party resumed their journey, and after a walk of three 
 miles came to the Coppermine River. Its current was 
 strong, but with a canoe there would have been no difficulty 
 in crossing ; and the reckless folly of the men in abandon- 
 ing their only means of transport was now brought strongly 
 to their mind. No ford could be discovered, and the plan 
 was suggested of framing a vessel of willows, covered with 
 the canvass of the tent ; but the most experienced boatmen 
 declared the willows were too small to bear the weight ; and 
 no pines could be found. Nothing remained but to resume 
 their march along the borders of the lake ; and looking out 
 eagerly, but in vain, for some fordable place, they encamped 
 at the east end. Anxious to adopt every possible means 
 for preserving the party, Franklin sent Mr. Back forward 
 with the interpreters to hunt. He was directed to halt at 
 the first pines and construct a raft ; and if his hunters had 
 killed animals sufficient to provision them, he was to cross 
 immediately and send the Indians with supplies of meat to 
 the party behind. 
 
 
 k.i- 
 
A RAFT CONSTRUCTED. 
 
 161 
 
 lurioufl at 
 own their 
 KaidS) and 
 The re- 
 ■ minds to 
 ing in the 
 feet high, 
 nade their 
 rd of deer 
 hich, con- 
 vhichthey 
 as evident 
 tie ground, 
 id, casting 
 with hope 
 
 day's rest, 
 the enjoy- 
 ^s* famine, 
 usly. The 
 deer were 
 nd some of 
 jence in the 
 ixt morning 
 ilk of three 
 urrent was 
 o difl&culty 
 ill ahandon- 
 ht strongly 
 id the plan 
 ivered with 
 d boatmen 
 leight ; and 
 t to resume 
 jlooking out 
 encamped 
 ible means 
 [ck forward 
 to halt at 
 [outers had 
 as to cross 
 of meat to 
 
 At this time it was discovered that two of the men had 
 stolen part of the officers' provision, though it had been 
 doled out with the strictest impartiality, and they saw their 
 leaders suffering more acutely than themselves. To punish 
 this was impossible, except by the threat that they should for- 
 feit their wages, which produced little effect. Despondency 
 had deeply seized upon the party, and in the morning strict 
 orders could not prevent them from straggling in search of 
 the remains of animals ; in consequence of which much 
 time was lost in halting, and ammunition in firing guns to 
 collect them. The snow, however, had disappeared, and 
 pressing forward with more alacrity, they came to an arm 
 of the lake running north-east. The idea of making the 
 long circuit round it was distressing, and having halted to 
 consult what was to be done, some one discovered in a cliff 
 the carcass of a deer which had fallen into a chasm. It 
 was quite putrid, but even in that state appeared delicious, 
 and a fire being kindled, a large portion was rapidly de- 
 voured ; while the men, cheered by this unexpected break- 
 &st, regained their confidence, and requested leave to return 
 to the rapid, insisting on the practicability of making a suf- 
 ficiently strong rafl of willows, though they had formerly 
 pronounced it impossible. Their advice was followed ; and 
 having sent off Augustus, one of the interpreters, to inform 
 Mr. Back of this change of plan, they commenced their 
 retrograde movement, and encamped at night in a deep val- 
 ley among some large willows, where they supped on the 
 remains of the putrid deer. 
 
 Next day they regained the rapids, commenced cutting 
 willows for the rafl, and a reward of 300 livres was prom- 
 ised by Franklin to the person who should convey a line 
 across the river strong enough to manage the rafl and trans- 
 port the party. . The willows when cut were bound into 
 fagots, and the work completed ; but the greenness of the 
 wood rendered it heavy, and incapable of supporting more 
 than one man at a time. Still they hoped to be able to 
 cross ; but all depended on getting a line carried to the oppo- 
 site bank, through a current 130 yards wide, strong, deep, 
 and intensely cold. Belanger and Bennit, the two strongest 
 men of the party, repeatedly attempted to take the rafl over, 
 but for want of oars were driven back. The tent-staves 
 were then tied together, and form^ a strong pole ; but it 
 
 O 2 
 
 
 ■4 \ 
 
Jf 
 
 f! h\ 
 
 162 
 
 ACCUMULATED SUFFERING 0. 
 
 was not long enough to reach the bottom even at a short 
 distance from the shore. Dr. Richardson next produced a 
 paddle he had brought from the coast, but which was found 
 not powerful enough to impel the raft against a strong 
 breeze. The failure of every attempt occasioned a deep 
 despondency^ which threatened to have the most fatal effects, 
 when Dr. Richardson, with a disinterested courage that 
 made him forget his own weakness, threw off his upper 
 garments, and attempted to swim with a rope to the oppo- 
 site bank. Plunging in with the line round Iiis middle he 
 at first made some v ^y but the extreme cold was too much 
 for him, and in a few n^oments his arms became powerless ; 
 still, being an expert swimmer, he not only kept himself 
 afloat, but made way by turning on his back and using his 
 legs, so that he had nearly reached the other side, when, to 
 the inexpressible anguish of those who watched his progress, 
 his limbs became benumbed, and he sank. All hands now 
 hauled on the line, and drew him ashore almost lifeless ; but 
 placed before a fire of willows, and stripped of his wet 
 clothes, he gradually revived enough to give directions as to 
 the mode of treating him. His thin and emaciated limbs, 
 which were now exposed to view, produced an involuntary 
 exclamation of compassion and surprise : — " Ah, que nous 
 sommes maigres !" said the French Canadians ; but it is 
 probable that few of them would have presented so gaunt 
 and attenuated an appearance as the brave and excellent 
 man who had thus nearly fallen a sacrifice to his humanity, 
 for it was discovered about this time that the hunters were 
 in the practice of withholding the game which they shot, 
 and devouring it in secret.^ 
 
 Soon after this the party were joined by Mr. Back, who 
 had traced the lake about fifleen miles farther up without 
 discovering any place where it was possible to get across ; 
 and towards evening Credit, who had been out hunting, re- 
 turned without any game of his own killing ; but brought 
 the antlers and back-bone of a deer shot during the summer. 
 These relics had been already picVed clean by the wolves 
 and birds of prey, but the marrow remained in the spine ; 
 and though completely putrid, and so acrid as to excoriate 
 the lips. It was not the less acceptable. The bones were^ 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 423, 424. 
 
THE niVER CROSSED. 
 
 168 
 
 rendered friable by burning, and the whole eagerly devoured. 
 St. Germain, one of the voyagers, now suggested that a 
 cfinoe might be made of the painted canvass used to wrap 
 up the bedding, and offered to construct it upon a frame- 
 work of willows. For this purpose he and Adam removed 
 to a clump of willows, while another party proceeded to the 
 spot where they had encamped on the 25th, to collect pitch 
 among the small pines to pay over the seams. A snow- 
 storm at this moment came on, and the Huiferings of the 
 men hourly increasing, a deep gloom settled upon their 
 spirits. Mr. Hood was by this time reduced to a perfect 
 shadow; Mr. Back required the support of a stick; Dr. 
 Richardson was lame ; and Franklin so feeble, that, after a 
 struggle of three hours, he found himself utterly unable to 
 reach the spot where St. Germain was at work, a distance 
 of only three-quarters of a mile, and returned completely 
 exhausted. The Canadian voyagers had now fallen into a 
 state of despondency which bordered on despair, and, indif- 
 ferent to their fate, refused to make the slightest exertion. 
 The officers were unable to undergo the labour of gathering 
 the tripe de roche, and Samandr^, the cook, sullenly de- 
 clined continuinor his labours. At this miserable crisis the 
 conduct of John Hepburn, an English sailor, was especially 
 admirable, presenting a striking contrast to the gloomy sel- 
 fishness of the Canadians. His firm reliance on the watch- 
 ful goodness of God, and a cheerful resignation to his will, 
 never for a moment forsook him ; and, animated by this 
 blessed principle, his strength appeared to be preserved as 
 the means of saving the party. He collected the tripe de 
 roche for the officers* mess, cooked and served it out, and 
 showed the most indefatigable zeal in his i^fforts tc alleviate 
 their sufferings. 
 
 A gleam of hope at length arose when St. Germain com* 
 pleted the canoe. It was impossible not to feel that their 
 last chance of escape seemed to hang upon this little bark ; 
 •—would it prove sufficient for its purpose ? or, constructed 
 of such wretched materials, would it not at once sink to the 
 bottom 1 Amid this conflict of contending emotions it was 
 launched on the river, and every heart bounded with exulta- 
 tion when it floated, and St. Germain transported himself to 
 the opposite side. It was drawn back, and, one by one, the 
 whole party were ferried over, though, from the leaky state 
 
 r 
 
 w 
 
.i 
 
 
 I. 
 
 n 
 
 
 ■^1 
 
 :m 
 
 m ' / 
 
 164 
 
 ■LOW PROQRESS. 
 
 of the little bark, their garments and bedding were com- 
 pletely drenched. Franklin immediately despatched Mr* 
 Back and three men to push on to Fort Enterprise in search 
 of the Indians, while he himself followed with the rest. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the joy of the Canadian voyagers 
 at this unlooked-for deliverance. Their spirits rose from 
 the deepest despondency into tumultuous exultation. They 
 shook the officers by the hand, cried out that their worst 
 difficulties were at an end, and expressed a confident hope 
 of being able to reach Fort Enterprise in the course of a 
 few days, — a boisterous and sudden confidence, to which the 
 silent gratitude and quiet resolution of the pious Hepburn 
 presented a striking contrast. 
 
 Their tents and bedclothes were so much frozen, and the 
 men, who had kindled a small fire, so weary, that it was 
 eight in the morning before the bundles were packed, and 
 the party set forward. They travelled in single files, each 
 at a small distance from his neighbour. Mr. Hood, who 
 was now nearly exhausted, was obliged to walk at a gentle 
 pace in the rear. Dr. Richardson kindly keeping beside him ; 
 while Franklin led the foremost men, that he might make 
 them halt occasionally till the stragglers came up. Credit, 
 hitherto one of their most active hunters, became lamentably 
 weak from the effects of tripe de roche on his constitution, 
 and Vaillant, from the same cause, was getting daily more 
 emaciated. They only advanced six miles during the day, 
 and at night satisfied the cravings of hunger by a small 
 quantity of tripe de roche mixed up with some scraps of 
 roasted leather. During the night the wind increased to a 
 strong gale, which continuing next day, besides being pierc- 
 ingly cold, filled the atmosphere with a thick snow«drifl. 
 Having boiled and eaten the remains of their old shoes, and, 
 every shred of leather which could be picked up, they set 
 forward at nine over bleak hills separated by equally barren 
 valleys. 
 
 In this manner they journeyed till noon, not without 
 much straggling and frequent halts, at which time Saman- 
 dr^ came up with the melancholy news that Credit and Vail- 
 lant had dropped down, and were utterly unable to proceed. 
 Br. Richardson went back, and discovering Vaillant about 
 a mile and a half in the rear, assured him that a fire was 
 IdndkBd a little way on, and that he would recovMr if hf could 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 i^ 
 
 
TWO MEN LEFT IN THE SNOW. 
 
 165 
 
 Ten com* 
 t5hed Mf. 
 in search 
 B rest, 
 voyagers 
 rose from 
 n. They 
 tieir worst 
 dent hope 
 Durse of a 
 which the 
 B Hepburn 
 
 ti, and the 
 hat it was 
 acked, and 
 files, each 
 Hood, who 
 at a gentle 
 >eside him ; 
 night make 
 p. Credit, 
 lamentably 
 >nBtitution, 
 daily more 
 ig the day, 
 by a small 
 scraps of 
 ■eased to a 
 |eing pierc- 
 moW'drift* 
 shoes, and 
 I, they set 
 lly barren 
 
 bt without 
 
 (e Saman- 
 
 and Vail- 
 
 proceed. 
 
 mt about 
 
 la fire was 
 
 i^^cpuU 
 
 but reach it ; the poor fellow struggled up on his feet, and 
 feebly tried to advance, but fell down every step in the deep 
 snow. Leaving him, Dr. Richardson retraced his Rteps 
 about a mile farther in a fruitless search for Credit. In re- 
 turning he passed Vaillant, who had fallen down, utterly 
 unable to renew his efforts to rejoin the party. Belanger 
 went back to carry his burden and assiBt him to the fire ; 
 but the cold had produced such a numbness that he could 
 not speak or make the slightest exertion. The stoutest of 
 the party were now implored to make a last effort to trans- 
 port him to the fire, but declared themselves utterly unable 
 for the task. They eagerly requested leave to throw down 
 their loads, and proceed with the utmost speed to Fort En- 
 terprise, — a scheme projected in the despair of the moment, 
 and which must have brought destruction upon the whole. 
 Matters had now reached a dreadful crisis ; it was neces- 
 sary to come to an immediate decision regarding their ulti- 
 mate measures, and a plan proposed by Mr. Hood and Dr. 
 Richardson was adopted. These gentlemen consented to 
 remain with a single attendant at the first spot where there 
 were sufficient firewood and tripe de roche for ten days* 
 consumption, while Franklin and the rest were to proceed 
 with all expedition to Fort Enterprise, and send immediate 
 assistance. This scheme promised to relieve them of a con- 
 siderable portion of their burdens, — for one of the tents and 
 various other articles were to be left; and it gave poor 
 Credit and Vaillant a fairer opportunity, should they revive, 
 of regaining their companions. On the resolution being 
 communicated to the men, they were cheered with the pros- 
 pect of an alleviation of their misery, and pressed forward 
 m search of a convenient spot for the proposed separation. 
 Near nightfall they encamped under the lee of a hi 1 among 
 some willows, which furnished a small fire, but not suffi- 
 ciently strong to thaw their frozen clothes ; and no tripe de 
 roche having been found during the day, they lay down hun- 
 gry, cold, and full of the gloomiest appreheuHions, while 
 sleep fled from their eyelids, and the images of their dying 
 companions rose before their imagination in colours which 
 made them shudder for a fate that might so soon become 
 their own.* Next morning the weather providentially was 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 431, 432. 
 
 If 
 
 ' I 
 
r^ 
 
 166 
 
 ritANKLIN PUSHES FORWARD. 
 
 h 
 
 « 
 
 mild, and setting out at nine they arrived towards noon at a 
 thicket of willows, in the neighbourhood of some rocka 
 bearing a pretty full supply of tripe de roche. Here Dr. 
 Richardson and Mr. Hood determined to remain. The tent 
 was pitched, a barrel of ammunition and other articles were 
 deposited, and Hepburn, who volunteered the service, was 
 appointed to continue with them. The rest of the party 
 now had only to carry a single tent, the ammunition, and 
 the officers* journals, in addition to their own clothes and a 
 single blanket for Captain Franklin. When all was ready, 
 the whole party united in thanksgiving and prayers to AI« 
 mighty God for their mutual preservation, and separated 
 with the melancholy reflection that it might in all probability 
 be the last time they should ever again meet in this world. 
 On leaving their friends Captain Franklin and his party 
 descended into a more level country ; but the snow lay so 
 deep, and they were so little able to wade through it that 
 they encamped, after a painful march of only four miles and 
 a half, in which Belanger and Michel, an Iroquois, were left 
 far behind, yet still struggling forward. In the evening they 
 came in dreadfully exhausted, and Belanger, till now one 
 of the strongest of the party, could not refrain from tears 
 as he declared he was totally unable to proceed, and im- 
 plored permission to return to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood. 
 Michel made the same request, and it was agreed that they 
 should do so. The cold of the night was excessive, and 
 the men were so weak that they could not raise the tent ; 
 from its weight it was impossible to transport it from place 
 to place, and it was cut up, the canvass serving them for a 
 covering ; but, though they lay close together, the intense 
 frost deprived them of sleep. Having no tripe de roche, 
 they had supped upon an infusion of the Labrador tea-plant, 
 with a few morsels of burnt leather. Michel and Belanger, 
 being apparently more exhausted in the morning than over- 
 night, were left, while the rest moved forward. After a very 
 short progress Perrault was attacked with a fit of dizziness ; 
 but, on halting a little, again proposed to proceed. In ten 
 minutes, however, he sank down, and, weeping aloud, de- 
 clared his total inability to go on. He was accordingly ad- 
 vised to rejoin Michel and Belanger, — a proposal in which 
 he acquiesced. These examples of the total failure of the 
 strongest in the party had a very unfavourable effect on the 
 
 I 
 
ARRIVAL AT FORT ENTERPRISE. 
 
 167 
 
 lon at a 
 > rocks 
 ere Dr. 
 he tent 
 es were 
 ce, was 
 e party 
 ion, and 
 )s and a 
 8 ready, 
 rs to Al- 
 jparated 
 obability 
 ,8 world, 
 lis party 
 IV lay so 
 ;h it that 
 (liles and 
 were left 
 ling they 
 now one 
 om tears 
 
 and im- 
 Ir. Hood, 
 that they 
 sive, and 
 
 ;he tent ; 
 jom place 
 
 lem for a 
 intense 
 
 le roche, 
 
 lea-plant, 
 elanger, 
 an over- 
 
 er a very 
 
 |izziness ; 
 In ten 
 
 [loud, de- 
 
 ingly ad- 
 
 in which 
 
 •ft of the 
 
 !t on the 
 
 M 
 
 spirits of the rest, and the exertion of wading through the 
 snow and crossing a lake on the ice, where they were fre- 
 quently blown down, was so severe, that Fontano, after 
 having repeatedly fallen, piteously complained that he was 
 utterly unable to go farther. Being not two miles from the 
 others, it was thought best that he also should attempt to 
 rejoin them ;* and as he was much beloved, the parting was 
 very distressing. They watched him for some time, and 
 were comforted by seeing that, though his progress was 
 very slow, he kept his feet better than before. 
 
 The whole party was now reduced to five persons. Cap- 
 tain Franklin, Adam, Peltier, Benoit, and Samandr^, the 
 interpreter Augustus having pressed forward by himself 
 during the late frequent halts. They made that day only 
 four miles and a half, and encamped for the night under a 
 rock, supping again on an infusion of the Labrador tea-plant 
 and some shreds of boiled leather. The evening was com- 
 paratively mild, the breeze light, and having the comfort of 
 a fire, they enjoyed some sleep. This was of infinite advan- 
 tage ; it ^-ave them new spirits, which were further invigo- 
 rated by i breakfast of tripe de roche, this being the fourth 
 day since they had a regular meal. On reaching Marten 
 Lake they found it frozen over, — a circumstance which they 
 knew would enable them to walk upon the ice straight to 
 Fort Enterprise. 
 
 It may be easily imagined what were the sensations of 
 the party in approaching the spot which they trusted would 
 be the end of all their toils and privations. From the ar- 
 rangements previously made, it was judged certain that 
 they would here find relief, and be able to send assistance 
 to their unfortunate companions. It was a spot where they 
 had enjoyed, at a former period of the expedition, t'le great- 
 est comfort ; but it was possible, though they scarcely per- 
 mitted themselves to contemplate so dreadful an idea, that 
 circumstances might have occurred to defeat their present 
 expectations. On approaching the house their minds were 
 strongly agitated between hope and fear, and, contrary to 
 their usual custom, they advanced in silence. At length 
 they reached it, and their worst apprehensions were realized. 
 It was completely desolate. No provisions had been depos- 
 
 * FmukUn's Journey, p. i90, 4S7. 
 
 If 
 
 
 I 
 i ■ 
 
 I* 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 iVP^ 
 
 1 
 
 I'By 
 
 i ■ 
 
 
 ■. ■■ 
 
 (1> PHp 
 
 : 
 
 
 5 
 
 wi ftfti] 
 
 f 
 
 wWm 
 
 1 ' 'tYma 
 
 \ 
 
 ^11^ 
 
168 
 
 THE FORT FOUND DESERTED. 
 
 ;l 
 
 ited — ^no trace of Indians could be discovered — ^no letter lay 
 th-3re from Mr. Wentzel to inform them where the Indians 
 might be found. On entering, a mute despair seized the 
 party. They gazed on the cold hearth, comfortless walls, 
 and broken sashes, through which the wind and snow pene- 
 trated, and, awakening to a full sense of the horrors of their 
 situation, burst into tears.* On recovering a little, and 
 looking round with more attention, a note was found from 
 Mr. Back, stating that having two days before this reached 
 the house, he had proceeded in search of the Indians ; but 
 it described his party as so debilitate<J that it was doubtful 
 whether they would be able to reach Fort Providence. The 
 sufferings endured by this meritorious officer and his little 
 party, one of whom was frozen to death, were equally dread- 
 ful with those which fell to the share of his excellent com- 
 mander.! 
 
 The poor sufferers, thus grievously disappointed, now 
 examined the deserted habitation for the means of subsist- 
 ence, and found several deer-skins thrown away during their 
 former residence at the fort. The heaps of ashes were 
 carefully raked, and a considerable collection of bones dis- 
 covered, which were hoarded up for the purpose of being 
 pounded and manufactured into soup. The parchment 
 originally employed instead of glass had been torn from the 
 windows, and the place was exposed to all the inclemency of 
 an arctic winter ; but they succeeded in filling the sashes 
 with loose boards, and as the temperature of the outer air 
 was now from 15° to 20° below zero, this precaution was 
 especially necessary. To procure water they melted the 
 frozen lumps of snow, and the flooring of the neighbouring 
 apartment was broken up for fuel. 
 
 Having completed these arrangements, they assembled 
 round the fire, and were busy singeing the hair off a deer- 
 skin, when they were cheered by the entrance of the inter- 
 preter, who had made his way to the fort by a different route, 
 through a country he had never traversed before. Though 
 by far the strongest of the party, he was now so enfeebled 
 by famine that he could not follow two deer which he had 
 seen on his way. Next morning there was a heavy gale 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 438, 439. 
 
 t Ste Mr. Back's interesting Narrative, Franklin's Journey, p. 477. 
 
 
 M 
 
FRANKLIN ATTEMPTS TO PROCEED. 
 
 169 
 
 iter lay 
 Indians 
 zed the 
 18 walla, 
 w pene- 
 of their 
 tie, and 
 nd from 
 reached 
 ins ; but 
 doubtful 
 ;e. The 
 his little 
 lly dread- 
 lent com- 
 
 ited, now 
 if subsist- 
 ring their 
 shes were 
 )ones dis- 
 i of being 
 )archnient 
 I from the 
 jmency of 
 ,he sashes 
 outer air 
 ution was 
 lelted the 
 hbouring 
 
 issembled 
 )ff a deer- 
 Ithe inter- 
 lent route, 
 Though 
 I enfeebled 
 ^h he had 
 leavy gale 
 
 p. 477. 
 
 from the south-east, and the snow drifted so thick that no 
 one ventured abroad. On the evening of the succeeding 
 day, a figure covered with ice, benumbed with cold, and 
 almost speechless, staggered into the house : it was one of 
 the Canadians who had been despatched with a note by Mr. 
 Back, and having fallen into a rapid, narrowly escaped being 
 drowned.* To change his dress, wrap him in warm 
 blankets, and pour some soup over his throat, was their first 
 care ; and after a little he revived enough to answer the 
 anxious questions with which he was assailed. From his 
 replies but little comfort was derived. Mr. Back had seen 
 no trace of the Indians, and the messenger's recollection 
 appeared confused with regard to the part of the country 
 where he hivl left his officer, who, as he stated, intended to 
 proceed to the spot where the Indian chief Akaitcho had 
 encamp«d last summer, — a distance of about thirty miles. 
 Thither h* proposed to follow when he was a little recruited ; 
 and, though dissuaded from the attempt, persisted that as 
 the track was beaten he would e able to make it out, and 
 to convey intelligence of the situation of Captain Franklin's 
 party. Accordingly, the fifth day after his arrival, he de- 
 parted from the fort with a small supply of singed hide. 
 
 Not long after, Adam, one of the five men who now re- 
 mained with Captain Franklin, became so ill that he was 
 utterly incapable of moving, and it was discovered that he 
 had been for some time afflicted with (edematous sw ellings in 
 various parts of his body, which he had hitherto gf i>^roasly 
 concealed, from a wish not to impede the n>>)' eme i> > of his 
 companions. As it was impossible for this poor man to 
 travel, it was necessary to abandon the original ir Mention of 
 proceeding with the whole party to Fort P?*'^videnc3, and 
 Peltier and Samandre, who were in almost a^ weak a st.ite, 
 having expressed a wish to remain with Adan», Captain 
 Franklin, along with Augustus and Benoit, determined to 
 press on to P^ort Providence, and to send relief to their com- 
 panions by the first party of Indians they should meet. 
 
 Having accordingly given directions regarding the journals 
 and charts which were left in their custody, and the best 
 mode of forwarding succour to Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson, 
 Franklin set forward with his two attendants ; but so feeblf 
 
 * rrankJin> Journey, p. 440, 441, 
 
 
 y. 
 
 V.i 
 
170 FRANKLIN JOINED BY HIS FRIENDS, 
 
 had they become, that the distance accomplished in sir 
 hours was only fob. miles. They encamped on the borders 
 of Round Rock Lake, and, unable to find any tripe de roche, 
 made their supper upon fried deer-skin. The night proved 
 intensely cold, and although they crept as close to each other 
 as possible, they shivered in every limb, and the wind 
 pierced through their famished frames.* Next morning was 
 mild, and they set out early, but had scarce proceeded a few 
 yards, when Franklin fell between two rocks and broke his 
 snow-shoes, an accident which incapacitated him from keep- 
 ing up with Benoit and Augustus. In a very short time 
 his attempt to press forward completely exhausted him ; and 
 as the only hope of preserving the lives of the party 
 appeared to rest on their speedily reaching Fort Providence, 
 he determined, rather than retard them, to retrace his steps 
 to the house while they proceedtd for assistance. Calling 
 a moment's halt, he addressed one note to Mr. Back, re- 
 questing an immediate supply of meat from Rein-deer Lake, 
 and another to the commandant at Fort Providence, v ith 
 urgent entreaties for assistance. This done, Augustus and 
 Benoit resumed their journey, and Franklin returned to the 
 house. 
 
 On arriving he foand Adam, Samandr^, and PeUier still 
 alive ; but ihe two first, v/hose minds seemed quite enfeebled, 
 could not be prevailed on to leave their bed, and their nervous 
 weakness was so great that they scarcely ceased shedding 
 tears all day. It was even with difficulty that they were 
 prevailed on to take any nourishment ; and the labour of 
 cutting and carrying fuel, gathering the tripe de roche, and 
 cooking fell entirely upon Franklin and Peltier. The frost 
 was now so severe that it was evident this lichen would 
 soon be bound up in ice, and as their strength daily declined, 
 every exertion became irksome. When once seated, it re- 
 quired a painful eJEfort to rise up, and not unfrequently they 
 had to lift each other from their chairs. This miserable 
 condition could not last long. Peltier soon became almost 
 incapable of holding the hatchet ; the bone-soup had grown 
 so acrid as to corrode the inside of their mouths ; the tripe 
 de roche, covered with ice, defied all efforts to detach it from 
 the rock ; and though the rein-deer sported on the banks of 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 444. 
 
 I 
 
>d in SIT 
 le borders 
 de roche, 
 ht proved 
 each other 
 
 the wind 
 >rning was 
 jiled a few 
 1 broke his 
 from keep- 
 short time 
 1 him ; and 
 
 the party 
 Providei'ce, 
 ;e his steps 
 e. Calling 
 r. Back, re- 
 -deer Lake, 
 dence, v ith 
 igustus and 
 iirned to the 
 
 Peltier still 
 ,e enfeebled, 
 lieir nervous 
 id shedding 
 It they were 
 le labour of 
 roche, and 
 The frost 
 ichen would 
 lily declined, 
 leated, it re- 
 ^uently they 
 s miserable 
 ame almost 
 had grown 
 s ; the tripe 
 itach it from 
 he banks of 
 
 I. 
 
 DR. RICHARDSON AND HEPBURN. 
 
 171 
 
 the river, no one had h to go after them, or to hold a 
 
 gun so steadily as to o an aim 
 
 Still the hopes and iieerfulness of Franklin did not de- 
 sert him. From his knowledge of the places mostly frequented 
 at that season by the Indians, he was sanguine as to the 
 likelihood of their being found ; and their speedy arrival 
 formed a constant subject of conversation. At length, on 
 the evening of the 29th, when talking of this long looked- 
 for relief, and sitting round the fire, Peltier suddenly leaped 
 up and uttered a joyful exclam;, an, imagining he heard 
 the bustle of the Indians in the adjoining room. It was not 
 the Indians, however, but Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, 
 who came in each carrying his bundle. The meeting was 
 one of ningled joy and sorrow. Poor Hood's absence was 
 instantly perceived, and their saddest anticipations were 
 confirmed by Dr. Richardson declaring that this young officer 
 and Michel were dead, and that neither Perrault nor Fon- 
 tano had reached the tent, or been heard of. Such news 
 could not fail to create despondency. All were shocked at 
 the emaciated countenances and hollow voices of Dr. Rich- 
 ardson and his companion, while Captain Franklin and his 
 fellow-sufferers, having become gradually accustomed to the 
 dreadful effects of famine upon each other, were not aw re 
 that, to the eyes of their friends who had just arrived, trie 
 alteration upon themselves was equally melancholy. " The 
 doctor," says Franklin, "particularly remarked the sepul- 
 chral tone of our voices, which he requested us to make 
 more cheerful if possible, not aware that his own partook 
 of the same key."* 
 
 The arriv-vl of these friends, however, was soon attended 
 with a favourable change. Though greatly reduced, they 
 were still in a better condition than their unfortuna;ue com- 
 panions, and it was not long till Hepburn shot a partridge. 
 Dr. Richardson speedily tore off the feathers, and having 
 held it for a few minutes at the fire divided it into six 
 pieces : Franklin and his companions ravenously devoured 
 their portions, " being the first morsel of flesh that any of 
 them had tasted for thirty-one days," and Dr. Richardson 
 ch«ered them with the prospect that Hepburn might pos- 
 fiiblj bring in a deer in his next expedition. The counsels 
 
 * Fratiklin's Journey, p. 447. 
 
 ; I 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 ■«: 
 
 IF 
 
173 HAPPY EFFECTS OF HEPBURN*S COVNeELS. 
 
 ti I 
 
 Im 
 
 ■>■ I 
 
 and example of this pious and intelligent man produced the 
 best effects on the spirits of the party. He had brought 
 with him his Testament and Prayer-book ; and by reading 
 portions of Scripture appropriate to their situation, and en- 
 couraging them to join in prayer and thanksgiving, he led 
 them to the only Source whence, under the awful circum- 
 stances in which they were placed, they could derive hope 
 or consolation. He taught them the necessity of exertion, 
 whatever pain it might at first cost ; roused them to pay some 
 attention to the cleanliness of their apartment, and insisted 
 particularly that during the day they should roll up their 
 blankets, which they had been in the practice of leaving 
 beside the fire where they slept. Their several tasks were 
 now allotted to each ; Hepburn and Richar.yson went out 
 MI search of deer ; while Franklin, being unable to walk 
 'ar, remained nearer the house, and digged under the snow 
 for skins, which, during their former happy winter residence 
 «it this station, when they killed and ate abiHhiance of 
 giune, were thrown away as useless, but now, in their 
 almost putrid state, formed their principal support. The 
 cutting of firewood was intrusted to Peltier and Samandre ; 
 but both were so weak and dispirited that it was generally 
 performed by Hepburn on his return from hunting ; as for 
 Adam, his legs were still so severely swollen that he kept 
 his bed, though an operation performed by Dr. Richardson 
 gave him some ease. In the midst of these necessary 
 cares, all seemed for a while to dread approaching the sub- 
 ject of Hood and Michel's death ; but at length one even- 
 ing, on the return of the doctor from hunting, and after 
 having despatched their usual supper of singed skin and 
 bone-soup, they requested him to relate the particulars, and 
 a more aiHicting, or in some respects a more terrific story, 
 as it appears in his published narrative, could not well be 
 conceived. 
 
 He stated, that aft ir being left by Captain Franklin they 
 remained beside the fire as long as it lasted. Having no 
 tripe de roche, they f-upped on an infusion of the country 
 tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, but afforded 
 no nourishment, and retired to rest. Next day proved 
 stormy, and the snow bemg so deep that a fire could not be 
 kindled with the green willows, they lay in bed reading 
 /some religious ^books with which the party had been fur- 
 
 I 
 
L9. 
 
 ced the 
 brought 
 reading 
 and en- 
 , he led 
 circum- 
 ve hope 
 exertion, 
 )ay some 
 insisted 
 up their 
 f leaving 
 sks were 
 went out 
 ; to walk 
 the snow 
 residence 
 (iance of 
 , in their 
 oxt. The 
 amandre ; 
 generally 
 ig ; as for 
 Lt he kept 
 Lichardson 
 necessary 
 the sub- 
 one even- 
 and after 
 skin and 
 lars, and 
 •ific story, 
 •t well be 
 
 RICHARDSON S NARRATIVE. 
 
 173 
 
 iklin they 
 laving no 
 Le country 
 [t afforded 
 \y proved 
 lid not be 
 reading 
 [been fur- 
 
 nished before leaving England by the affectionate and pious 
 care of a K\dy. " They proved," says Richardson, " of in- 
 calculable benefit to us. We read portions of them to each 
 other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and 
 evening service, and found that they inspired us on each 
 perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a 
 beneficent God, that our situation in these wilds appeared 
 no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with calm- 
 ness but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained con- 
 fidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope 
 upon our future prospects."* 
 
 The weather clearing up. Dr. Richardson went out in 
 search of tripe de roche, leaving Mr. Hood in bed and Hep- 
 burn cutting willows for a fire ; but the rocks were covered 
 with ice and snow, and he was unsuccessful. On his re- 
 turn he found Michel the Iroquois, who delivered the note 
 from Franklin. t All were surprised to see him alone; but 
 he stated that Belanger had separated from him, and, as he 
 supposed, lost his way, he himself having wandered far 
 from the straight road. They had afterward good reason 
 to suspect the truth of this story, but believed it at that 
 moment, and were rejoiced to see him produce a hare and 
 a partridge, — an unlooked-for supply, which they received 
 with humble thankfulness to the Giver of all good. Frank- 
 lin's note advised them to advance to a little wood of pines, 
 which would afford better fuel ; and to this they removed 
 unaer the guidance of Michel, who led them straight to the 
 spot. 
 
 As he had declared himself so little acquainted with the 
 country as to lose his way, it seemed strange that he should 
 at once conduct them to the thicket. This rous 3d their 
 attention, and made them feel rather uneasy as to his 
 honesty; and various circiunHtnncrs occurred to increase 
 their suspicions. He requested the loan of •. Iiatchet, when 
 any other hunter would have tRlmn only l\is knife. He re- 
 mained abroad all day without any definite employment. 
 He brought them some raw meat, saying it was part of 
 the carcass of a wolC; but which they had afterward rea- 
 son to believe was a porfion of the bodies of Belanger and 
 Perrault, whom they suspected him to have murdered. He 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 449. t IWd. p. i40. 
 
 P2 
 
 
 ^ i 
 
 
174 
 
 Michel's suspicious conduct. 
 
 shunned the society of Dr. Richnrdson and Mr. Hood, re- 
 fusing to sleep in the tent, and preferring to lie alone at the 
 fire. On going out with the purpose of remaining a whole 
 day, he often returned abruptly, and when questioned gave 
 vague answers. In a few days he began to regret that he 
 had left Captain Franklin's party, refused to take any share 
 in the labour of cutting wood, talked in a surly and insolent 
 manner, and could scarcely be prevailed upon to go out and 
 hunt at all. These symptoms of gloomy dissatisfaction 
 increased ; he resisted all entreaties, and when Mr. Hood, 
 who was now reduced by famine to the last extremity, re- 
 monstrated with him, he flew into a violent passion, and 
 exclaimed, " It is of no use hunting ; there are no animals ; 
 you had better kill and eat me." He afterward, however, 
 consented to go out, but returned upon some frivolous pre- 
 tence ; and on the succeeding day that dreadful catastrophe 
 took place which will be best given in the words of Dr. 
 Richardson's Journal. 
 
 ♦'In the morning," says he, "being Sunday, October 
 20th, we again urged Michel to go a-hunting, that he 
 might, if possible, leave us some provision, to-morrow being 
 the day appointed for his quitting us ; but he showed great 
 unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire under 
 the pretence of cleaning his gun. After we had read the 
 morning service, I went about noon to gather some tripe 
 de roche, leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the 
 fireside arguing with Michel. Hepburn was employed 
 cutting down a tree at a small distance from the tent, being 
 desirous of accumulating a quantity of firewood. A short 
 time after I went out I heard the report of a gun, and about 
 ten minutes afterward Hepburn called to me in a voice of 
 great alarm to come directly. When I arrived I found poor 
 Hood lying lifeless at the fireside, a ball having apparently 
 entered his forehead. I was at first horror-struck with the 
 idea that in a fit of despondency he h? 1 hurried himself 
 into the presence of his Almighty Judge by an act of his 
 own hand ; but the conduct of Michel soon gave rise to 
 other thoughts, and excited suspicions which were con- 
 firmed, when, upon examining the body, I found that the 
 shot had entered the back part of the head and had passed 
 out at the forehead, while the muzzle of the gun had been 
 applied so close as to set fire to tho nightcap behind. The 
 
 6 
 
 ;;3 
 
nURDEK OF MR. HOOD. 
 
 175 
 
 ood, re- 
 e at the 
 a whole 
 ed gave 
 that he 
 ny share 
 insolent 
 out and 
 isfaction 
 r. Hood, 
 mity, re- 
 ion, and 
 inimals ; 
 lowever, 
 ous pre- 
 :astrophe 
 s of Dr. 
 
 October 
 that he 
 •ow being 
 ved great 
 ire under 
 read the 
 me tripe 
 it at the 
 employed 
 nt, being 
 A short 
 ind about 
 voice of 
 und poor 
 iparently 
 with the 
 himself 
 let of his 
 rise to 
 ere con- 
 that the 
 Ld passed 
 Ihad been 
 id. The 
 
 } 
 
 ::S 
 
 'gun, which was of the longest kind supplied to the Indians^ 
 could not have been placed in the position to inflict such a 
 wound except by a second person. Upon inquiring of 
 Michel how it happened, he replied that Mr. Hood had 
 sent him into the tent for the short gun, and that during 
 his absence the long gun had gone off, he did not know 
 whether by accident or not. He held the short gun in his 
 hand at the time he was speaking. Hepburn afterward as- 
 serted, that previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood 
 and Michel were speaking to each other in an elevated 
 angry tone : he added, that Mr. Hood, being seated at the 
 fireside, was hid from him by intervening willows ; but that 
 on hearing the report he looked up, and saw Michel rising 
 up from before the tent-door, or just behind where Mr. Hood 
 was seated, and then going into the tent. Thinking that 
 the gun had been discharged for the purpose of cleaning it, 
 he did not go to the fire at first ; and when Michel called 
 to him that Mr. Hood was dead, a considerable time had 
 elapsed. * * * Bickersteth's Scripture Help was lying 
 open beside the body, as if it had fallen from his hand, and 
 it is probable he was reading it at the instant of his 
 death."* 
 
 Such was the melancholy fate of Mr. Hood, a young 
 officer of the highest promise, who by his conduct had en- 
 deared himself to every member of the expedition, and 
 whose sufferings, as they were more intense from the pe- 
 culiarity of his constitution, were borne with a placid and 
 unpretending fortitude which it was impossible to contem- 
 plpte without emotion. Both Dr. Richardson and Hepburn 
 were couvinced he had met his death from the hands of 
 Michel ; but to have accused him at that moment would 
 have been the extremity of rashness. They were so re- 
 duced by famine that he could easily have overpowered 
 both. His appearance showed that he possessed secret 
 supplies of food ; he was of great bodily strength, and was 
 armed to the teeth, carrying, besides his gun, a brace of 
 pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. To have hinted a 
 suspicion, therefore, might have been instantly fatal, and 
 they affected to consider the death of their companion en- 
 tirely accidental. As his weakness had been the chief 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, vol. iv l2mo. ed. p. 109-112. 
 
176 
 
 TlinEATS OF MICHEL 
 
 '"Ji 
 
 cause of delaying their journey, they now set out for the 
 fort, having first paid the last rites to the dead in the only 
 way which their situation would permit. The f ^und was 
 so hard and their strength so exhausted, that to tlio a grave 
 was impossible ; so they carried the body into the willow 
 grove behind the tent, and returning to the fire read the 
 funeral service in addition to their evening devotions. 
 
 In the morning, having singed the hair off a portion of 
 Mr. Hood's buffalo robe, they boiled and ate it for breakfast. 
 Meanwhile, the conduct of Michel was so extraordinary, 
 that had they not been already convinced of his guilt, no 
 doubt of it could have remained. I'hough not a breath of 
 their (suspicions reached his ears, he repeatedly protested 
 that he was incapable of committing such an act ; he kept 
 constantly on his guard ; appeared fearful of leaving Dr. 
 Richardson and Hepburn alone even for the shortest time ; 
 and when Hepburn spoke he listened anxiously, though 
 very imperfectly acquainted with the English language, 
 fixed his eyes keenly upon him, and asked fiercely if he ac- 
 cused him of the murder. He evinced great unwillingness 
 to set out for the fort, and wished Dr. Richardson to pro- 
 ceed to the Coppermine River, where he said the woods 
 would supply plenty of deer. On finding this advice dis- 
 recrarded his corsduct became more and more alarming ; he 
 mutterd to himself, fell into sullen fits of abstraction, and 
 used those convulsive and abrupt gestures often involun- 
 tarily exhibited by a person whose mind is full of some 
 dreadful purpose. Suddenly awakening from this revery, 
 he again expressed his unwillingness to return to the fort, 
 and renewed his solicitations to Dr. Richardson to repair to 
 the southern woods, where they would find ample subsist- 
 ence. On being requested to pursue his own plan alone, 
 and leave them to continue their journey, he broke into an 
 ungovernable fury, accused Hepburn of having told stories 
 bgainst him, and assumed such airs of superiority as showed 
 that he knew tliey were both in his power, at the same time 
 giving vent to expressions of hatred against the white peo- 
 ple, calling them deadly enemies, and affirming they had 
 killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. 
 
 None of these menaces were lost upon Richardson and 
 Hepburn ; both felt they were not safe in this man's com- 
 pany ; and these dreadful surmises rose into certainty when 
 
 t 
 
 J 
 (] 
 
 t: 
 
 a 
 
 P 
 a: 
 
 ir 
 
 th 
 
 P» 
 
 ed 
 
 pr 
 
 w] 
 
 I 
 
; for thfl 
 he only 
 ind was 
 a grave 
 e willow 
 read the 
 
 ts. 
 
 ortion of 
 reakfast. 
 ordinary, 
 guilt, no 
 jrealh of 
 protested 
 he kept 
 iving Dr« 
 est time ; 
 r, though 
 language, 
 if he ac- 
 illingness 
 on to pro- 
 the woods 
 idvice dis- 
 ming; he 
 ction, and 
 involun- 
 of some 
 |is revery, 
 the fort, 
 repair to 
 s suhsist- 
 lan alone, 
 le into an 
 (id stories 
 is showed 
 jiame time 
 |?hite peo- 
 they had 
 
 [dson and 
 in's com- 
 ity when 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 « 
 
 HIS DEATH. 
 
 177 
 
 he threw out hints that he would free himself from all re- 
 straint on the morrow. Being now convinced that, as he 
 had cruelly murdered Hood, he was resolved also to sacrifice 
 them, they ascrihcd his not having already done so to the 
 circumstance of his not knowing the way to the fort, and 
 requiring their guidance. They came to this conclusion 
 without any communication with each other ; for their 
 fierce companion would not leave them a moment, watching 
 them with a malignant look, and frequently muttering 
 threats against Hepburn. Towards evening, as they ap- 
 proached the spot where it would be ner "sary to stop for 
 the night, Michel halted to gather tri| roche, and to 
 
 their surprise bade them walk on and 1 vould soon over- 
 take them. Hepburn and Dr. Richardson, now left alone 
 together for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, rapidly 
 opened their minds to each other. In addition to the facts 
 already mentioned, others came to light which left not the 
 slightest doubt as to Michel's ^u\\t ; and so convinced was 
 Hepburn .jf there being no safety for them but in his death, 
 that, though a man of extreme benevolence and deep re- 
 ligious principle, he offered to be the instrument of it him- 
 self. " Had my own life," says Dr. Richardson, " alone 
 been threatened, I would not have purchased it by such a 
 measure ; but I considered myself as intrusted also with 
 the protection of Hepburn's, a man who by his humane 
 attentions and devot^dness had so endeared himself to me 
 that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own.'* 
 Animated by such feeUngs, and convinced that Michel's 
 death was necessary to self-preservation, he determined 
 that it ought to be by his own and not by Hepburn's hand, 
 BXi'l on his coming up shot him through the head with a 
 pistol. It appeared that he had gathered no tripe de roche, 
 and had halted to put his gun in order, no doubt with the 
 intention of attacking them when in the act of encamping.* 
 Dr. Richardson and Hepburn now pursued their way to 
 the fort ; but fatigue, and want of food and fuel, had nearly 
 proved fatal to them. They remarked, however, that repeat- 
 edly when death seemed inevitable, an unexpected supply of 
 provisions again restored them ; and the confidence that, 
 when no human help was nigh, they were supported by a 
 
 * Franklins Journey, p. 457, 458. 
 
 t^ 
 
 l!i 
 
 -.^ 
 
 1 ■« 
 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 I.I 
 
 l^|2| |25 
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 IL25 III 1.4 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14510 
 
 (716) S72-4S03 
 
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178 DEATH OF PELTIER AND SAMANDRI:. 
 
 merciful God, inspired them with renewed hope. At last th^y 
 had the delight of beholding from an eminence the smoke 
 issuing from the chimney of the fort, and immediately after 
 embracing those friends for whose fate they had entertained 
 80 many melancholy forebodings. So ended this interest- 
 ing narrative. 
 
 The whole party were now once more united, but under 
 circumstances of the most distressing privation ; all ema- 
 ciated to such a degree as to look like living skeletons ; their 
 hands shook from weakness, so that to take an aim was im- 
 possible ; and the rein-deer, partridges, and other game 
 flew or bounded past in joyousness and security, while the 
 unhappy beings who beheld them were gaunt with hunger. 
 The winter was closing in with all its horrors ; it became 
 daily more difficult to procure fuel, the labour of cutting and 
 carrying the logs being so grievous that only Dr. Richardson 
 and Hepburn could undertake it ; and to scrape the ground 
 for bones, and to cook this miserable meal, was all Captain 
 Franklin could accomplish. On 1st November, the doctor 
 obtained some tripe de roche ; and as Peltier and Samandr^ 
 were in the last stage of exhaustion, it was hoped a little of 
 the soup might revive them. All was in vain ; they tasted 
 a few spoonfuls, but soon complained of a soreness in their 
 throats, and both died in the course of the night, apparently 
 without pain. To inter the bodies, or even carry them to 
 the river, was a task for which the united strength of the 
 survivors was inadequate ; all they could do was to remove 
 them into an opposite part of the house ; and the living and 
 the dead remained in awful contiguity under the same roof. 
 
 The party was now reduced to four, — Franklin, Richard- 
 son, Hepburn, and Adam. The last had become dreadfully 
 low since the death of his companions, and could not bear 
 to be left alone for a moment. Their stock of bones was 
 exhausted, and in a short time it was evident that the se- 
 verity of the frost must render the gathering of the tripe de 
 roche impossible. Under these circumstances, with death 
 by famine approaching every hour, this little band of pious 
 ard brave men were supported by an unwavering reliance 
 on the mercy of God. " We read prayers," says Captain 
 Franklin, ** and a portion of the New Testament in the 
 morning and evening, as had been our practice since Dr. 
 Richardson's arrival ; and I may remark, that the perform- 
 
 >■ 
 
I 
 
 UNEXPECTED RELIEF. 
 
 179 
 
 ,t last th?y 
 the smoke 
 lately after 
 sntertained 
 is interest- 
 but under 
 I ; all ema- 
 tons ; their 
 im was im- 
 •ther game 
 , while the 
 ith hunger, 
 it became 
 cutting and 
 Richardson 
 the ground 
 all Captain 
 , the doctor 
 d Samandr6 
 ed a little of 
 they tasted 
 less in their 
 , apparently 
 .rry them to 
 ngth of the 
 IS to remove 
 e living and 
 e same roof, 
 in, Richard- 
 le dreadfully 
 Lild not bear 
 bones was 
 that the se- 
 the tripe de 
 with death 
 ind of pious 
 Ing reliance 
 lays Captain 
 lent in the 
 |e since Dr. 
 the perform- 
 
 ance of these duties always afforded us the greatest conso- 
 lation, serving to reanimate our hope in the mercy of the 
 Omnipotent, who alone could save and deliver us.'** It 
 seemed as if it were the mysterious design of the Almighty 
 to permit them to be reduced to the lowest depth of suffering, 
 that his power might be magnified at the very moment when 
 every human effort appeared utterly impotent. Hitherto 
 Dr. Richardson and Hepburn had been the healthiest of the 
 party, but they had overwrought themselves, and both sank 
 rapidly. Owing to tlieir loss of flesh, the hardness of the 
 floor, from which they were only protected by a single 
 blanket, rendered the whole surface of their bodies sore ; 
 yet the labour of turning from one side to the other was too 
 much for them. As their strength sank, their mental facul- 
 ties partook of the weakness of their frame ; and, to employ 
 the candid and simple expressions of the excellent leader, 
 '* an unreasonable pettishness with each other began to 
 manifest itself, each believing the other weaker in intellect 
 than himself, and more in need of advice and assistance.'* 
 During this gloomy period, after the first acute pains of 
 hunger(which lasted but for three or four days) had sub- 
 sided, they generally enjoyed the refreshment of sleep, ac- 
 companied by dreams which, for the most part, partook of a 
 pleasant character, and very often related to the pleasures 
 of feasting. t 
 
 Help, however, was now near at hand, and we shall not 
 impair the affecting description of their deliverance by giving 
 it in any other than Captain Franklin's own words. " On 
 November 7th, Ad:im had passed a restless night, being 
 disquieted by gloomy apprehensions of approaching death, 
 which they tried in vain to dispel. He was so low in the 
 morning as scarcely to be able to speak, and Captain Frank- 
 lin remained by his bedside to cheer him as much as 
 possible, while the doctor and Hepburn went out to cut 
 wood. They had hardly begun their labour when they werr 
 amazed at hearing the report of a musket, and could 
 scarcely believe that there was any one near till they heard 
 a shout, and espied three Indians close to the house. Adam 
 and Franklin heard the latter noise, and were fearful that 
 some part of the house had fallen upon one of their com- 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 404. f Franklin's Journey, p. 466, 40^ 
 
180 
 
 ARRIVAL OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 h 
 
 ¥ 
 
 panions, — a disaster which had been thought not unlikely. 
 The alarm was only momentary ; for Dr. Richardson came 
 in to communicate the joyful intelligence that relief had 
 arrived. He and Captain Franklin immediately addressed 
 their thanksgivings to the Throne of Mercy for this deliver- 
 ance ; but poor Adam was in so low a state that he could 
 scarcely comprehend the information. When the Indians 
 entered he attempted to rise, but immediately sank down 
 again. But for this seasonable interposition of Providence, 
 his existence must have terminated in a few hours, and that 
 of the rest probably in not many days."* 
 
 The Indians, who had been despatched by Mr. Back, had 
 travelled with great expedition, and brought a small sup- 
 ply of provisions. They imprudently presented too much 
 food at first ; and though aware of the effects which might 
 arise from a surfeit, and warned by Dr. Richardson to eat very 
 sparingly, the sight of the venison was irresistible : and it 
 was devoured by them all, not excluding the doctor him- 
 self, with an avidity that soon produced the most acute 
 pains, which during the night deprived them of rest. Adam, 
 whose weakness rendered him unable to feed himself, was 
 not subjected to the same inconvenience, and taking mode- 
 rate meals revived hourly. All now was thankfulness and 
 cheerful activity. Boudel-kell, the youngest Indian, after an 
 hour's rest, returned to the encampment of Akaitcho, the 
 Dog-rib chief, carrying a note from Captain Franklin, and 
 a request for another supply of provisions. The two others, 
 named in their familiar manner Crooked Foot and the Rat, 
 remained to nurse the white men. Under their care the 
 apartment, lately so desolate, and something between a sep- 
 ulchre and a lazar-house, assumed a gladdened look which 
 had the best effect. The dead bodies were removed, the 
 room cleaned of its filth and fragments of pounded bones, 
 and large cheerful fires produced a sensation of comfort to 
 ■which they had long been strangers. The poor sufferers 
 had often cast a wishful eye on a pile of dried wood near 
 the river, but were utterly unable to carry it up the bank. 
 "When pointed out to the Indians, they fetched it home with 
 a rapidity which astonished their feeble friends. " They set 
 about every thing," says Franklin, "with an activity which 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 467. 
 
CONCLUSION OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 181 
 
 unlikely, 
 son came 
 relief had 
 addressed 
 is deliver- 
 t he could 
 e Indians 
 ank down 
 rovidence, 
 5, and that 
 
 Back, had 
 small sup- 
 too much 
 tiich might 
 to eat very 
 )le : and it 
 octor him- 
 nost acute 
 ;st. Adam, 
 imself, was 
 king mode- 
 fulness and 
 an, after an 
 aitcho, the 
 anklin, and 
 two others, 
 nd the Rat, 
 'ir care the 
 i;»'een a sep- 
 look which 
 moved, the 
 nded bones, 
 ■ comfort to 
 or sufferers 
 wood near 
 the bank, 
 home with 
 " They set 
 tivity which 
 
 amazed us. Indeed, contrasted with our emaciated figures 
 and extreme debility, their frames appeared to us gigantic^ 
 and their strength supernatural." 
 
 Under the care of the Indians, and the blessing of whole- 
 some and regular meals, the strength of the party was so 
 far restored, that, although still feeble, on the 16th, after 
 having united in prayer and thanksgiving to God for their 
 deliverance, they left Fort Enterprise, — a spot where, as they 
 had formerly enjoyed much comfort, if not happiness, they 
 had ^?t('Tly expTioncrd a degree of misery scarcely to hs 
 paralleled.* The Indians treated them with unremitting 
 kindness, gave them their own snow-shoes, and walked at 
 their side to be ready to lift them up when they fell. In this 
 manner they pushed forward to the abode of Akaitcho, the 
 Indian chief, who welcomed them with the utmost hospita- 
 lity. Soon after they received letters from their friends at 
 Fort Providence, and the messenger also brought two trains 
 of dogs, a package of spirits and tobacco for the Indians, 
 and a supply of shirts and clothes for Captain Franklin and 
 his companions. The gratification of changing their linen, 
 which had been uninterruptedly worn ever since their de- 
 parture from the seacoast, is described as conveying an in- 
 tensity of comfort to which no worr^s can do justice. From 
 this spot their progress to Fort Providence and thence to 
 Montreal was prosperous and easy ; and thus terminated 
 their long, fatiguing, and disastrous travels in North 
 America, having journeyed by water and by land, includ- 
 ing their navigation of the Polar Sea, 5550 miles. 
 
 So disastrous had been the result of his first expedition, 
 and so appalling the sufferings with which it was accompa- 
 nied, that nothmg assuredly can convey a more honourable 
 testimony to the enthusiastic zeal and unshaken perseve- 
 rance of Captain Franklin, than the statement of the simple 
 fact, that towards the close of 1823, having learned the de- 
 termination of government to make another attempt to effect 
 a northern passage by sea between the Atlantic and Pacific 
 Oceans, he, to use his own words, ** ventured to lay before 
 liis majesty's government a plan for an expedition overland 
 to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence by sea to 
 the north-western extremity of America, with the combined 
 
 ♦ Franklin^s Journey, p. 470. 
 
 a 
 
 I 
 
hf 
 
 : 
 
 i ■ * I 
 
 
 182 
 
 franklin's second journey. 
 
 object also of surveying the coasts between the Mackenzie 
 and the Coppermine Rivers." 
 
 It was the opinion of this able officer, that in the course he 
 now proposed to follow, reverses similar to those which had 
 surrounded his first journey were scarcely to be appre- 
 hended ; and his views having met the approbation of govern- 
 ment, he received directions for the equipment of the 
 expedition, and was nominated its commander. He had 
 the satisfaction also of being once more accompanied by his 
 valued friend Dr. Richardson ; who, unappalled by his 
 former dreadful sufferings, again offered his services as 
 naturalist and surgeon, and volunteered to undertake the 
 survey of the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine 
 Rivers, while Captain Franklin was occupied in an attempt 
 to reach Icy Cape.* Previous to the departure of the ships 
 a correspondence was opened with the governor and direc- 
 tors of the Hudson's Bay Company ; who transmitted in- 
 junctions to their ofi'icers in the fur-countries to provide 
 depots of provisions at the stations pointed out by Franklin. 
 
 The building of proper boats for the navigation of the 
 Arctic Sea, as well as the passage of the rapids between 
 York Factory and Mackenzie River, formed the next object 
 of attention. It was evident that the canoes of bi -ch-bark 
 employed hj Sir A. Mackenzie, and by Captain Franklin in 
 his first journey, though excellently adapted for the Ameri- 
 can rivers, uniting lightness and facility of repair with speed, 
 were yet, from the tenderness of the bark, little fitted to re- 
 sist the force of the arctic waves, or the collision of the 
 sharp-pointed masses of ice. Captain Franklin accordingly 
 obtained the Admiralty's permission to have three boats 
 constructed, at Woolwich, under his own superintendence. 
 " They were built," says he, *' of mahogany, with timbeis 
 of ash, both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either 
 with a ship-oar or a rudder. The largest, being twenty-six 
 feet long and five feet four inches broad, was adapted for six 
 rowers, a steersman, and an officer ; it was found to be ca- 
 pable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the crew, 
 and could be transported with ease on the shoulders of six 
 men. The other two boats were twenty-four feet in length, 
 
 * Franklin's Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the 
 Polar Sea. Introductory Chapter, p. 10. 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 7i 
 
DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 183 
 
 four feet ten inches broad, and held a crew of five men, be- 
 sides a steersman and an officer, with an extra weight of 
 two and a half tons. In addition to these, another little 
 vessel was constructed, at Woolwich, which reflected great 
 credit upon its inventor. Lieutenant-colonel Pasley, of the 
 Royal Engineers. Its shape was exactly that of one of the 
 valves of a walnut-shell, and it was framed of well-seasoned 
 planks of ash, fastened together with thongs, and covered 
 with Mackintosh's prepared canvass. It weighed only 
 eighty-five pounds, and when taken to pieces could be made 
 up in five or six parcels, and again put together in less than 
 twenty minutes, although it was nine feet long by four feet 
 four inches in breadth."* Each person on board was pro- 
 vided with two suits of water-proof dresses, prepared by 
 Mr. Mackintosh, of Glasgow ; the guns, which were of the 
 same bore as the fowling-pieces furnished by the Hudson's 
 Bay company to the Indian hunters, had their locks tem- 
 pered to resist the cold ; each being fitted with a broad 
 Indian dagger similar to a bayonet, which, on being dis- 
 joined, could be used as a knife. Ammunition of the best 
 quality, and a store of provisions suHicient for two years, 
 were r.iso supplied. 
 
 The expedition sailed from Liverpool on 16th February, 
 1825, and after a favourable passage to New- York, pro- 
 ceeded to Albany, travelled through Utica, Rochester, and 
 Geneva, crossed the Niagara and Lake Ontario, coasted the 
 northern shore of Lake Superior, and thence pushed for- 
 ward through Rainy Lake, the Lake of the Woods, Lake 
 Winipeg, Saskatchawan River, and arrived at Cumberland 
 House en the 15th June. P>om this station, proceeding 
 northward to Isle a la Crosse, and passing through Deep 
 River and Clear and Buffalo Lakes, they overtook their 
 boats in Methye River on the morning of 29th June. The 
 advanced period of the season rendered it impossible to era- 
 bark on the Mackenzie before the middle of August, so that 
 it became necessary to postpone the great expedition till the 
 ensuing summer. They accordingly established their winter- 
 quarters on the banks, erecting a habitation and store, which 
 they named Fort Franklin. The superintendence of these 
 buildings was committed to Lieutenant Back, while Captain 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, Intro. Chap. p. 15, 18. 
 
184 
 
 ARRIVAL AT WHALE ISLAND. 
 
 Franklin Jetermined to descend the river, take a view of the 
 state uf the Polar Sea, and return to winter^quarters before 
 the extreme cold should set in. 
 
 In this voyage there occurred nothing worthy of partiijular 
 notice till the arrival at Whale Island, where, though Mac- 
 kenzie had the strongest reasons to conclude that he had 
 reached the sea, he appears not to have been completely satis- 
 fied on that point. Probably his doubts arose from the fresh 
 taste of the water. Franklin, however, proceeded beyond 
 Whale Island, and reached the shore of the great Arctic 
 Ocean. " Embarking," says he, " at eleven A. M., we con- 
 tinued our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we 
 found its coast trending southward of east. There we landed, 
 and were rejoiced at the sea-like appearance to the northward. 
 An island was now discovered to the north-east, looking 
 blue from its distance, towards which the boat was imme- 
 diately directed. The water, which for the last eight miles 
 had been very shallow, became gradually deeper, and of a 
 more green colour, though still fresh, even when we had 
 entirely lost sight of the eastern land. In the middle of the 
 traverse we were caught by a strong contrary wind, against 
 which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours. Un- 
 willing to return without attaining the object of our search, 
 when the strength of the rowers was nearly exhausted the 
 sails were set double-reefed, and our excellent boat mounted 
 over the waves in a most buoyant manner, while an oppor- 
 tune alteration of the wind enabled us in the course of 
 another hour to fetch into smoother water under the shelter 
 of the island. We then pulled across a line of strong rip- 
 ple, which marked the termination of the fresh water, that 
 on the seaward side being brackish ; and in the further pro- 
 gress of three miles to the island, we had the indescribable 
 pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt. The sun was 
 setting as the boat touched the beach ; we hastened to the 
 most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and fifty 
 feet high, to look around ; and never was a prospect more 
 gratifying than that which lay open to us. The Rocky 
 Mountains were seen from S.W. to W.^N., and from the 
 latter point, round by the north, the sea appeared in all its 
 majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any visible ob- 
 etruction to its navigation. Many seals and black and 
 inrhite whales were seen sporting on its waves, and the 
 
 
WINTER EMPLOYMENTS. 
 
 185 
 
 whole scene was calculated to excite in our minds the most 
 flattering expectations of our own success and that of our 
 friiiids in the Hecla and the Fury."* Franklin pronotinces 
 a high encomium on the accuracy of Mackenzie, and con- 
 siders him as completely entitled to the praise of having 
 reached the Arctic Sea, although, owing to the frail con- 
 struction of the Indian canoes, it was impossible for him 
 to sail to the point where the water became salt. 
 
 Having accomplished his design in this preliminary jour- 
 ney, Franklin returned on 5th September to his winter- 
 quarters on Great Bear Lake. About the same time Dr. 
 Richardson arrived from his excursion to the north-eastern 
 shores of the same extensive sheet of water, having com- 
 pleted his survey as far as the influx of Dease's River, and 
 ascertained that the first rapid was the best point to which 
 the eastern detachment of the expedition should direct its 
 course on their return from the Coppermine in the following 
 season. Meantime the people were so busily employed that 
 time never hung heavy on their hands, and the shortest day 
 came almost unexpectedly upon them. The Canadians 
 and Indians were engaged in fishing and hunting for the 
 support of the whole party, and during the autumn the nets 
 yielded daily eight hundred fish of the kind called herring- 
 salmon. Four Dog-rib Indians, along with the two interpre- 
 ters, Augustus and Ooligbuck, were employed in hunting rein- 
 deer, and the sailors were divided into different parties, to 
 whom separate duties were allotted ; such as attending on the 
 nets, bringing home the venison killed by the hunters, felling, 
 carrying, and splitting wood, and exercising themselves in 
 running as letter-carriers on snow-shoes between Fort 
 Franklin and two other small posts established on the Mac- 
 kenzie and Slave Lake. A school also was opened, in 
 which, during the long winter evenings, the officers instructed 
 the sailors in reading, writing, and arithmetic ; and during 
 the hours of relaxation the hall was given up to the men to 
 divert themselves with any game they chose ; on which oc- 
 casions they were always joined by the officers. Sunday 
 was invariably a day of rest, and the whole party attended 
 divine service morning and evening. Besides this, the offi- 
 cers had ample employment in noting down the thermo- 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 34-36. 
 Q3 
 
 
 m 
 
 m^ 
 
T-* 
 
 180 
 
 APPROACH OF SPRINO. 
 
 h 
 
 I: 
 
 metrical, magnetical, and atmospherical observations, in writ' 
 ing their journals, finishing their charts and drawings, and 
 arranging the objects of natural history which hud been 
 collected.* They were amused by occasional visits of the 
 Dog-rib Indians and various other tribes ; and Christmas- 
 day falling on a Sunday, they on the succeeding evening 
 gave a dance and supper, which was attended by sixty per- 
 sons including savages. ** Seldom," says Franklin, ** in 
 such a confined space as our hall, or among the same num- 
 ber of persons, was there a greater variety of character or 
 greater confusion of tongues. The party consisted of En^ 
 Hshmen, Highlanders (who mostly conversed with eacn 
 other in Gaelic), Canadians (who spoke French), Esqui- 
 maux, Chipewyans, Dog-ribs, Hare Indians, Cree women 
 and children, all mingled together in perfect harmony, while 
 the amusements were varied by English, Gaelic, and French 
 
 songs."t 
 
 The spring now approached, and the migratory animalsy 
 which observe with beautiful exactness their penods of de- 
 parture and arrival, began to appear, gladdening the yet 
 wintry face of nature. On 5th October the last swan had 
 passed to the southward, and on the 11th the last brown 
 duck was noticed. On 6th May the first swan was seen, 
 and on the 8th the brown ducks reappeared on the lake. 
 The mosses began to sprout, and various singing birds and 
 orioles, along with some swifts and white geese, arrived 
 soon after. It is remarked by Dr. Richardson, that the 
 singing birds, which were silent on the banks of the Bear 
 Lake during the day, serenaded their mates at midnight ; at 
 which time, however, it was quite light. On 20th May the 
 little stream which flowed past the fort burst its icy chains, 
 and the laughing geese arrived to give renewed cheerful- 
 ness to the lake. Soon .after this the winter-green began 
 to push forth its flowers ; and under the increasing warmth 
 of the sun's rays the whole face of nature underwent a de- 
 lightful change. The snow gradually melted, the ice broke 
 up from the shores of the lake;, the northern sky became 
 led and luminous at midnight, the dwarf-birch and willows 
 expanded their leaves, and by the 3d June the anemones, 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 54-56. 
 t IM. p. 67. 
 
"} 
 
 EMBARKATION ON THE MACKENZIE. 
 
 187 
 
 the tuBsilago, the Lapland rose, and other early plants, were 
 in full flower.* 
 
 Admonished by these pleasing changes, Captain Franklin 
 prepared to set out, and on 1 5th June the equipments for 
 the boats were completed. Fourteen men, including Au- 
 gustus the Esquimaux interpreter, accompanied the com- 
 mander-in-chief and Lieutenant Buck in the two larger boats, 
 the Lion and the Reliance ; while nine men, and Oolig- 
 buck another interpreter, attended Dr. Richardson and Mr. 
 Kendall in the Dolphin and the Union. Spare blankets, and 
 all that could be useful for the voyage, or as presents to the 
 Esquimaux, were divided between the eastern and western 
 parties. On the Sunday before their departure, the officers 
 and men assembled at divine worship^ and, in addition to 
 the usual service, the special protection of the Almighty 
 was implored for the enterprise upon which they were about 
 to be engaged. All was now ready, and on Tuesday, 28th 
 June, they embarked upon the Mackenzie, with the naviga- 
 tion of which the reader is already familiar. On the 4th 
 July they reached that part where the river divides into 
 various channels, and the two parties hud determined to 
 pursue different directions. The expedition which was to 
 follow the western branch, commanded by Captain Frank- 
 lin, embarked first at Dr. Richardson's desire, with a salute 
 of three hearty cheers from their companions, and as they 
 dropped down the river and passed round a point of land they 
 perceived their friends who were to follow the eastern branch 
 employed in the bustle of embarkation. All were in high 
 spirits, and it was impossible not to contrast their present 
 complete state of equipment with the circumstances of their 
 first disastrous journey. 
 
 On reaching the mouth of the Mackenzie, the western 
 expedition came almost immediately into contact with the 
 Esquimaux. Captain Franklin observed an encampment 
 upon a neighbouring island, and instantly proceeded to open 
 a communication. A selection of presents was made, and at 
 the same time every man was directed to have his gun ready 
 for use. Having adopted these precautions, they steered 
 direct for the island with their ensigns flying. The boats 
 touched ground when about a mile from the beach. Signs 
 
 i 
 
 1^ 
 
 ■fi 
 
 * Richardson's Meteorological Tables. 
 
188 
 
 ESQUIMAUX. 
 
 r 
 
 >vere made to the Esquimaux to come off, nnd the EngliHU 
 milled back a little to invnit their arrival in deeper water. 
 Three canoes, each carrying only a single person, pushed 
 off, and those were followed rapidly by others ; so that in a 
 lew minutes the whole space between the boats and the 
 shore was alive with those little vessels, which they name 
 kayaks. An attempt was at first made to count them, and 
 the sailors got the length of seventy ; but they increased in 
 such quick succession us to bafHo their further efforts. 
 
 At first every thing pr»)cre(hHl in a friendly manner. Au- 
 gustus, after delivering a present, informed them, that if the 
 English succeeded in finding a navigable channel for large 
 ships, an advantageous trade would be opened. This in- 
 timatioii was received with a deafening shout, and the sight 
 of the presents which had been carried away by the three 
 foremost kayaks inflamed the cupidity of their companions ; 
 so that the boats were in a moment surrounded by nearly 
 three hundred persons, offering for sale their bows, arrows, 
 and spears, with a violence and perseverance which became 
 at last exceedingly troublesome, and Captain Franklin di- 
 rected the boats to be put to seaward. At this moment a 
 kayak was upset by one of the oars of the Lion, and its 
 unhappy possessor was struck by the accident with his head 
 in the mud and his heels in the air. He was instantly ex- 
 tricated, wrapped in a warm great-coat, and placed in the 
 boat, where, although at first excessively frightened and 
 angry, he soon became reconciled to his situation, and look- 
 ing about, discovered many bales and other articles which 
 had hitherto been carefully concealed. His first impulse 
 was to ask for every thing he saw, his next to be indignant 
 that his requests were not granted ; and on joining his com- 
 panions, as they afterward learned, he harangued on the 
 mexhaustible riches of the Lion, uid proposed a plan for a 
 general attack and pillage of both the boats. This scheme 
 was immediately carried into execution ; and although the 
 plunderers at first affected to be partly in sport, matters soon 
 assumed a serious complexion. Two of the most powerful 
 men, leaping on board, seized Captain Franklin, forced him 
 to sit between them, and when he shook them off, a third 
 took his station in front to catch his arm whenever he 
 attempted to raise his gun or lay his hand on the broad dagger 
 which hur)g by his side. During this assault the two boats 
 
 ) 
 
 \i\ 
 
e Engliuh 
 )et water. 
 II, ]>ushcd 
 ) that in a 
 8 and the 
 hey name 
 them, and 
 creased in 
 Torts, 
 mer. Au- 
 that if the 
 1 for large 
 This in- 
 1 the sight 
 f the three 
 npanions ; 
 by nearly 
 /8, arrows, 
 ch became 
 anklin di- 
 moment a 
 n, and its 
 h his head 
 stantly ex- 
 ced in the 
 tened and 
 and look- 
 les which 
 i impulse 
 indignant 
 his corn- 
 ed on the 
 Ian for a 
 is scheme 
 ough the 
 ters soon 
 powerful 
 reed him 
 , a third 
 never he 
 d dagger 
 wo boats 
 
 TIOLENT CONDrCT OF THE ESQUIMAUX. 189 
 
 were violently dranrjrod to the shoro, anil a numerous party, 
 •tripping to the waist and hrandishitiir tliinr long sharp 
 knives, ran to the Reliance, andconunenccd a rej^ular pillage, 
 handing the articles to the women, who, ranged in a row be- 
 hind, quickly conveyed them out of sight. No sooner was 
 the bow cleared of one set of marauders than another party 
 commenced their operations at the stern. The Lion was 
 beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly keepin^r 
 their seats on the canvass cover spread over the cargo, and 
 beating off the natives with the butt-end of their muskets, 
 succeeded in preventing any article of importance from 
 being carried away. Irritated, at length, by their frequent 
 failure, the Esquimaux made u simultaneous charge, and, 
 leaping cii board, began to wrest the dngjrers and shot-belts 
 from the sailors, and to strike with their knives. In the 
 midst of this attack, when the crew in the Lion were nearly 
 overpowered and their commander disarmed, all at once the 
 natives took to their heels, and concealed themselves behind 
 the drift-timber and canoes on the beach. This sudden 
 panic was occasioned by Captain Back, whose boat at this 
 time had been got afloat, commanding his crew to level their 
 muskets, — a proceeding which was immediately observed 
 by the Esquimaux, though not noticed by Captain Frank- 
 lin's men, who were wholly occupied in defending them- 
 selves. The Lion happily floated soon after ; and as both 
 boats pulled ofT, Captain Franklin desired Augustus to in- 
 form some of the Esquimaux, who manifested a disposition 
 to follow and renew the attack, that he would shoot the first 
 man who ventured to approach within musket-range.* 
 
 In the evening, Augustus anxiously entreiited permission 
 to attend a conference of his countrymen on the shore, to 
 which he had been formally invited. The courage and 
 fidelity of this person had much endeared him to the Eng- 
 lish, and it was not without hesitation that Captain Frank- 
 lin agreed to his request, as he stated his determination to 
 reprove the natives for their disgraceful conduct. He was 
 at length allowed to go, and by the time he reached the 
 shore the number of Esquimaux amounted to forty, all of 
 them armed. On landing, he walked undauntedly into the 
 middle of the assembly, an<l addressed them in the following 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. iOl-107. 
 
 ,<3 
 

 K fi 
 
 r 
 
 190 
 
 SPKECH OF AUGUSTUS. 
 
 animated speech, which he afterward repeated to his Eng 
 lish friends : — ** Your conduct," said he, " has been very 
 bad, and unlike all other Esquimaux. Some of you eveu 
 stole from me, your countryman — but that I do not mind. 
 I only regret that you should have treated in this violent 
 manner the white people, who came solely to do you kind- 
 ness. My tribe were in the same unhappy state in which 
 you now are before the white people came to Churchill ; 
 but at present they are supplied with every thing they need ; 
 and you see that I am well clothed, I get every thing I want, 
 ard am very comfortable. You cannot expect, after the 
 t/ansactions of this day, that these people will ever bring 
 rny articles to your country again, unless you show your 
 contrition by returning the stolen goods. The white people 
 love the Esquimaux, and wish to show them the same kind- 
 ness that they bettow upon the Indians. Do not deceive 
 yourselves, and suppose that they are afraid of you ; I tell 
 you they are not, and that it is entirely owing to their hu- 
 manity that many of you were not killed to-day, for they 
 have all guns with which they can destroy you either near 
 or at a distance. I also have a gun, and can assure you 
 that if a white man had fallen, I would have been the first 
 to have revenged his death." During this speech, which 
 was delivered, as they perceived from the boats, with much 
 energy and spirited gesticulation, the Esquimaux expressed 
 their approbation by frequent shouts, and on its conclusion 
 made a very penitent, though somewhiit singular apology : 
 *' They had never seen white men before," they said, " and 
 really all the things in the boats were so beautiful and de- 
 sirable that it was impossible not to steal them. As they 
 were very anxious, however, for the friendship and trade of 
 the white men, they solemnly promised never to repeat such 
 conduct, and, at the request of Augustus, sent back the 
 large kettle, the tent, and some pairs of shoes which they 
 had carried off."* The interpreter was afterward invited 
 to a dance, and a friendly understanding seemed to be es- 
 tablished ; but Captain Franklin soon discovered that the 
 professions of the natives were hollow and treacherous ; and 
 iiothing but his jealous precautions saved him and his com- 
 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 108, 109, 
 
FRIENDLY ESQUIMAUX. 
 
 191 
 
 lis Eng 
 ;en very 
 ou eveu 
 lot mind. 
 s violent 
 J on kind- 
 in which 
 hurchill ; 
 ey need ; 
 g I want, 
 after the 
 ver bring 
 tiow your 
 ite people 
 ame kind- 
 3t deceive 
 ou ; I tell 
 I their hu- 
 , for they 
 ;ither near 
 Lssure you 
 en the first 
 }ch, which 
 tvith much 
 expressed 
 conclusion 
 apology : 
 aid, "and 
 I and de- 
 As they 
 d trade of 
 epeat such 
 t back the 
 hich they 
 id invited 
 to be es- 
 that the 
 rous ; and 
 his com- 
 
 panions from massacre, in which it had been resolved to in- 
 clude the faithful Augustus. 
 
 Their voyage along the coast in the direction of west- 
 north-west, after a progress of twelve miles, was impeded 
 by the ice stretching from the shore far to seaward. The 
 boats were in consequence hauled up ; and as the frozen 
 masses were piled round to the height of thirty feet, it be- 
 came necessary to await the breaking up of this formidable 
 barrier. Having gone to sleep, the officers were startled at 
 midnight by the guard calling to arms : three Esquimaux, 
 belonging to a large party encamped at some distance, had 
 stolen forward, and been only discovered when close at hand. 
 Alarmed at the appearance of the men, who stood to their 
 arms, the strangers were on the point of discharging their 
 arrows, when they were arrested by the loud voice of Au- 
 gustus, who explained the object of the expedition, and di- 
 lated upon the advantages which they would derive from it. 
 A present confirmed his statement, and an amicable inter- 
 course was opened, — a line, however, being first drawn at a 
 certain distance from the tents, across which no Esquimaux 
 was to pass undr-r the penalty of being instantly shot. 
 Against this they made no remonstrance, only remarking, 
 v/hen informed of the treacherous conduct of the natives at 
 the mouth of Mackenzie River, that " these were bad men, 
 altogether different from them, and never failed either to 
 steal or quarrel whenever an opportunity was offered." 
 The delight exhibited by these people, including the most 
 elderly among them, on receiving any little present, was ex- 
 actly similar to that of children when they get hold of toys. 
 They ran from one thing to another ; examined with rest- 
 less curiosity every part of Augustuses dress, who, to gratify 
 his vanity, had put on his gayest apparel ; and, ignorant of 
 the uses of the articles presented to them, they walked about 
 with cod-fish hooks and awls dangling from the nose, and 
 copper thimbles strung to their trousers or rein-deer jackets. 
 The men were robust, and taller than those seen on the 
 east coast by Captain Parry, though their manner of life 
 appeared to be nearly the same. With the broad nose and 
 small eyes, which peculiarly distinguish the whole Esqui- 
 maux tribes, they had the cheek-bones less projecting than 
 those of the eastern coast. From a constant exposure 
 to the glare of the ice and snow, the «vhole party were 
 
 I' 
 
 hm 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 
 J •' ri 
 
 M »|: 
 
■I 
 
 'I 
 
 193 DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE ESQUIMAUX. 
 
 afflicted with sore eyes, and two of the old men seemed 
 nearly blind. They wore the hair on the upper lip and 
 chin, and every man had pieces of bone or shells thrust 
 through the septum of the nose, while holes were pierced 
 
 
 t - 
 
 on each side of the under lip, in which were placed circular 
 pieces of ivory with a large blue bead in the centre, — orna- 
 ments which they valued highly, and declined selling. 
 Their clothes consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, with 
 a skirt behind and before, and a small hood ; breeches of the 
 same material, and large seal-skin boots. The djress of the 
 females differed from that of the men only in their wearing 
 
n seemed 
 
 sr Up »^*^ 
 ells thrust 
 re pierced 
 
 POINTS SABINE AND KAY. 
 
 193 
 
 placed ( 
 
 [ circular 
 1 centre,— orna- 
 kclined selling, 
 [deer skin, wit^^ 
 1 breeches of the 
 :he djess of the 
 their wearing 
 
 wide trousers, and in the size of their hoods, which did not 
 fit close to the head, but were made large for the purpose 
 of receiving their children : these were ornamented with 
 stripes of different coloured skins, and round the top was 
 fastened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. The 
 women were from four feet and a half to four feet three- 
 quarters high, and some of the younger, though too cor- 
 pulent, were pretty ; their black hair was tastefully turned 
 up from behind to the top of the head, and braided with 
 strings of white and blue beads and cords of white deer- 
 skin. Both men and women were much pleased by having 
 their portraits sketched by Captain Back ; and one young 
 lady, who sat for a full-length and chose the extraordinary 
 attitude of stuffing both hands into her breeches- pockets, 
 interrupted the labours of the draughtsman by repeatedly 
 jumping into the air, and smiling in a very ludicrous and 
 irresistible manner. The men were armed with bows and 
 arrows, long knives, which they concealed in the shirt- 
 sleeve, and spears tipped with bone.* 
 
 The Esquimaux had predicted, that as soon as a strong 
 wind began to blow from the land it would loosen the ice ; 
 and on 12th July a heavy rain with a pretty high gale set 
 in, and opened up a passage. The boats accordingly were 
 launched ; and;, passing a wide bay named by the com- 
 mander after his friends Captains Sabine and Kay, they 
 were suddenly arrested by a compact body of ice, and en- 
 veloped at the same time in a dense fog. On attempting to 
 pull back for the purpose of landing, they discovered that 
 the ice had closed between them and the shore. In this 
 situation only one alternative was left, which was to pull to 
 seaward and trace the outer border of the ice. This they 
 at last effected ; though a sudden change of wind brought 
 on a heavy swell, and surrounded them with floating masses 
 of ice, which threatened to crush the boats to pieces. 
 They succeeded, however, after five hours employed in 
 pr'ling in and out between these floating icebergs, in reach- 
 in^ the shore and landing a little to the west of Point Sabine. 
 After a detention of two days they proceeded as far as Point 
 Kay ; but being here again impeded by a compact body of 
 ice, which extended to seaward as far as the eye could 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 118, 119. 
 R 
 
 n 
 
194 
 
 HERSCHEL ISLAND. 
 
 
 P 
 
 \n I 
 
 n 
 
 r * 
 
 f ' ^ 
 
 'M 
 
 I ..:. 
 
 r 
 
 i- .'. 
 
 ^ '^ 
 
 reach, they were obliged to encamp and wait patiently for 
 the first strong breeze from the land. 
 
 The time of their sojourn in these arctic solitudes was 
 pleasantly occupied in making astronomical observations, 
 collecting specimens of the plants in flower, sketching 
 scenery, and completing charts of the coast. Augustus 
 went in search of his countrymen, and returned at night 
 with a young Esquimaux and his wife, who, after a few 
 presents, became loquacious, and informed them that the 
 ice would soon break up. Symptoms of this desirable change 
 were accordingly observed next day, and with great labour 
 they reached Herschel Island. At the moment they made 
 the shore a herd of rein-deer came bounding down to the 
 beach, pursued by three Esquimaux hunters, and imme- 
 diately took the water, while the natives, startled at sight 
 of the strangers, gazed for a moment, consulted among 
 themselves, changed the heads of their arrows, and pre- 
 pared their bows. Their hostile Intentions, however, were 
 laid aside when they were addressed by Augustus ; and in 
 the evening a large party arrived, bringing dried meat, fish, 
 and game, for which they received presents in exchange, 
 which set them singing and dancing round the encampment 
 for the greater part of the night. 
 
 From these people was collected some curious information. 
 They stated that they procured beads, knives, and iron 
 principally from Esquimaux residing far away to the west, 
 and also from Indians who came annually from the interior 
 by a river directly opposite the encampment, to which Cap- 
 tain Franklin gave the name of Mountain Indian River.* 
 Whence the Indians or the Esquimaux obtained these 
 goods they could not tell, but supposed it was from Kabloo- 
 nacht or white men, at a great distance to the west. The 
 articles were not of British manufacture, from which Cap- 
 tain Franklin concluded that the Kabloonacht must be the 
 Russian fur-traders. 
 
 It was with great difficulty that the boats made even a 
 short distance from Herschel Island. The ice repeatedly 
 closed in upon them, leaving only a narrow channel, often 
 too shallow to float the boats, and dense fogs now became 
 frequent, rendering their navigation peculiarly hazardous. 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 130, 131. 
 
CLARENCE RIVER. 
 
 195 
 
 tiently fot 
 
 tudes was 
 seTvations, 
 
 sketching 
 
 Augustus 
 •d at night 
 after a few 
 m that the 
 able change 
 rreat labour 
 t they made 
 lown to the 
 
 and imme- 
 tled at sight 
 ulted among 
 ys, and pre- 
 jwever, were 
 stus ; and in 
 ed meat, fish, 
 in exchange, 
 
 encampment 
 
 Is information, 
 es, and iron 
 J to the west, 
 m the interior 
 ,0 which Cap- 
 ndian River.* 
 [btained these 
 from Kabloo- 
 le west. The 
 .m which Cap- 
 [it must be the 
 
 , made even a 
 I ice repeatedly 
 Ichannel, often 
 ]s now became 
 
 Irly hazardous. 
 
 )1. 
 
 These dreary curtains hanging over the ice gave it the 
 appearance of water, and exposed them to the danger of 
 being shut in by an impenetrable barrier when they expected 
 an open sea. They continued their course, however, till 
 they came abreast of Mount Conybeare, when they en- 
 camped, and crossing a swampy level ascended to the sum- 
 mit, from which they enjoyed a striking view into the inte- 
 rior. Three noble ranges of mountains were seen parallel 
 to the Buckland chain, but of less altitude, while the pros- 
 pect was bounded by a fourth range, mingling their pyra- 
 midal summits with the clouds, and covered with snow. 
 From this last encampment their advance was extremely 
 slow. The boats were pushed forward through small lanes, 
 the utmost vigilance being necessary to prevent their being 
 entirely shut in, as a few hours often made essential 
 changes, and their frail craft could only be saved by being 
 frequently hauled upon the beach. The calm weather also 
 retarded them, and they earnestly longed for a strong gale 
 to break up the compacted fields of ice, and permit them to 
 continue their voyage. 
 
 After a detention of some days their wishes seemed about 
 to be gratified ; at midnight, on the 2.'ith July, a strong 
 south-westerly breeze sprang up, accompanied by thunder 
 and lightning ; but in the morning an impenetrable fog 
 hung over the sea. On the land side the prospect was 
 equally dreary ; an extensive swamp, in which they sank 
 ankle-deep at every step, prevented any excursions into the 
 interior, and the clouds of mosquitoes which for ever 
 buzzed around them kept them in a perpetual irritation. At 
 length, however, the fog dispersed, disclosing an open lane of 
 water about halt a mile from shore ; following its course for 
 eight miles they came to the mouth of a wide river, which 
 had its rise in the British range of mountains. Its course 
 approached near the line of demarcation between the Ame- 
 rican dominions of Great Britain and Russia, and Captain 
 Franklin named it the Clarence River, after his present 
 majesty, then lord high admiral. On the most elevated 
 part of the coast near its mouth they erected a pile of drift- 
 wood, under which was deposited a tin box, containing a 
 royal silver medal, and an account of the proceedings of the 
 expedition ; afler which the union flag was hoisted with 
 three hearty cheers. 
 
 m 
 
106 
 
 MOUNT COPLE8TON. 
 
 
 » 
 
 They now continued their voyage, though often beset by 
 ice and interrupted by fogs, and passing the boundary be- 
 tween Russian and British America descried an encamp- 
 ment of natives on a low island, surrounded by many oomiaks 
 and kayaks guarded by Esquimaux dogs, while their mas- 
 ters were fast asleep in the tents. The interpreter being 
 despatched to arouse them, a singular scene took place. At 
 his first call a little squabby woman rushed out in a state of 
 perfect nudity, uttered a loud yell, and instantly ran back 
 again to rouse her husband, who, shouting out that stran- 
 gers were at hand, awoke the whole band. In a moment all 
 seized their arms, and without waiting to put on their deer- 
 skin breeches or jackets, swarmed out upon the beach, which 
 in an instant was covered with fifty-four grown-up persons 
 completely naked, very outrageous, dirty, and ugly. A 
 short parley quieted their fears, an interchange of presents 
 look place, and the boats crossed Camden Bay, having in 
 view the noble range of the Romanzoff Mountains, whose 
 peaks were covered with snow. 
 
 Soon after they arrived at the mouth of a river, which 
 discharged into the sea so great a volume of water that 
 even three miles from land the taste was perfectly fresh ; 
 and having reached latitude 70° 7', farther progress was 
 prevented by ice closely packed or the outer border of a 
 reef, and they discovered that the great chain of the Rocky 
 Mountains either terminated abreast of their present situa- 
 tion, or receded so far to the southward as to fade away in 
 the distance. During their detention Captain Back, to 
 whose pencil we are indebted for many admirable drawings 
 of arctic scenery, made a sketch of the most western moun- 
 tain, which they named Mount Copleston.* Various cir- 
 cumstances now warned them that much further progress 
 along this inhospitable coast was impracticable. The fogs 
 became more frequent and perilous, the water was often so 
 shallow that even at two miles from shore the boats 
 grounded, and on getting into deeper soundings, the re- 
 peated shocks received from masses of floating ice severely 
 injured their timbers, especially those of the Lion, which 
 was very leaky. Still they struggled on from Flaxman 
 
 * Franklin's Second 
 volume. 
 
 Journey, p. 150. See the Vignette to this 
 
ILLUSIONS OF THE FOG. 
 
 197 
 
 :; 
 
 Island along a low, desolate shore, rendered more dreary by 
 the stormy weather, till on the 10th a gale brought along 
 with it a thick fog, and they hauled up the boats, encamping 
 on a low spot, which they named Foggy Island. Here they 
 kindled fires, dried their clothes, which were completely 
 wet with the moisture of the atmosphere, and amused 
 themselves in their murky prison by proceeding in search of 
 rein-deer. The fog caused frequent and sometimes ludi- 
 crous mistakes ; and on one occasion, after the men had 
 spent a long time in stealing upon some deer, and were 
 congratulating themselves on coming within shot, to their 
 amazement the animals took wing and disappeared in the 
 fog, with a scream and cackle which at once declared their 
 genus, and seemed to deride the credulity of their pursuers. 
 " We witnessed with regret," says Captain Franklin, " in 
 these short rambles, the havoc which this dreary weather 
 made among the flowers. Many which had been blooming 
 upon our arrival were now lying prostrate and withered, 
 and these symptoms of decay could not fail painAilly to re- 
 mind us that the term of our operations was fast approach- 
 ing. Often at this time did every one express a wish that 
 we had some decked vessel, in which the provisions could 
 be secured from the injury of salt-water, and the crew 
 sheltered when they required rest, that we might quit this 
 shallow coast and steer at once towards Icy Cape."* So 
 frequently did they attempt to fulfil this desire, and so per- 
 petually were they driven back by the fog closing in upon 
 them, that the sailors declared the island was enchanted. 
 Indeed, to a superstitious mind the appearances furnished 
 some ground for believing it. The fog would often dis- 
 perse, and permit a short glimpse of a point about three 
 miles distant, bearing north-west-by-west ; in a moment 
 every hand was at work, the boats were launched, the crews 
 embarked ; but before they could be dragged into deep 
 water the spirit of the mist once more drew his impenetra- 
 ble curtain round them, and after resting a while on their 
 oars, they were compelled to pull back to their old quarters. 
 •Scarcely had they kindled a fire and begun to dry their 
 clothes, soaked with wading over the flats, when the fog 
 again opened, the boats were launched, and the desired 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 151. 
 R2 
 
198 
 
 APPROACH OF WINTER. 
 
 
 point almost gained ; but their tormentor once more en- 
 veloped earth and ocean in a thicker gloom than before. 
 ** Fog is, of all others," says Captain Franklin, " the moat 
 hazardous state of the atmosphere for navigation in an icy 
 sea, especially where it is accompanied by strong breezes ; 
 but particularly so for boats where the shore is unapproach- 
 able. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, 
 the result must be their wreck, or the throwing their pro- 
 visions overboard, to lighten them so as to proceed in shoal- 
 water. Many large pieces of ice were seen on the border of 
 the shallow water, and from the lowness of the temperature 
 we concluded that the main body was at no great distance."^ 
 The nights were now lengthening : the grasses and the 
 whole aspect of the vegetation was autumnal ; their stores 
 of drift-wood had been so much drawn upon, that though the 
 tents were wet through, and they were for warmth obliged 
 to wrap their feet in blankets, no fire was allowed except 
 to cook the victuals. The provisions were barely sufficient 
 for the support of the party on their return, while the fre- 
 quency of the fogs, the shallowness which prevented the 
 boats from floating, the heavy swell that, as the wind 
 freshened, rose upon the flats, compelled them to haul far- 
 ther from land, and the danger which in doing so they 
 necessarily incurred from the drift-ice, — formed an accumu- 
 lation of difficulties which rendered their progress from 
 Point Anxiety across Prudhoe Bay to Return Reef the most 
 discouraging and painful part of the whole voyage. It was 
 now the 16th of August, and the boats, though the exer- 
 tions of the crews had been unwearied, were only half-way 
 between the mouth of Mackenzie River and Icy Cape. The 
 young ice had already begun to form at night on the pools 
 of fresh water, and the mind of the commander recurred 
 naturally and wisely to his former experience. He recol- 
 lected that only one day later, and in a latitude two degrees 
 more southerly, he had in his first voyage encountered 
 severe storms c»f wind and snow, and that in another fort- 
 night the winter would set in with all its horrors. Already 
 the sun began to sink below the horizon, and with this 
 change the mean temperature of the atmosphere rapidly 
 decreased; the deer were hastening from the coast; the 
 
 i 
 
 3- /. 
 
 Franklin's Second Journey, p. 150. 
 
THE EXPEDITION COMPELLED TO RETURN. 199 
 
 more en- 
 an before. 
 »♦ the most 
 I in an icy 
 g breezes; 
 n approach- 
 riding ice, 
 their pro- 
 Bd in shoal- 
 le border of 
 emperature 
 distance."* 
 868 and the 
 their stores 
 t though the 
 rmth obliged 
 >wed except 
 ely sufficient 
 rhile the fre- 
 ■evented the 
 is the wind 
 I to haul far- 
 ing so they 
 an accumu- 
 ogress from 
 ,eef the most 
 lage. It was 
 jh the exer- 
 inly half-way 
 Cape. The 
 on the pools 
 ider recurred 
 . He recol- 
 two degrees 
 encountered 
 another fort- 
 Irs. Already 
 ,nd with this 
 ihere rapidly 
 e coast; the 
 
 Esquimaux had ceased to appear ; no winter houses gave 
 indications that this remote coast was inhabited ; and the 
 autumnal parties of geese hourly winging their flight to the 
 westward, indicated that winter had already surprised them 
 in their polar solitudes. It had been Franklin's great object 
 to double Icy Cape, and meet the expedition under Captain 
 Beechey in Kotzebue's Inlet ; but from the distance and the 
 advanced season this was now impracticable. On the other 
 hand, his instructions directed him, " if, in consequence of 
 slow progress, or other unforeseen accident, it should re- 
 main doubtful whether the expedition should be able to reach 
 Kotzebue's Inlet the same season, to commence their return 
 on the 15th or 20th of August." To relinquish the great 
 object of his ambition ; and to disappoint the confidence 
 reposed in his exertions, was a sacrifice which cost him 
 no ordinary pain ; and had he been then aware of the 
 fact (with which the reader will be immediately acquainted) 
 that the barge of the Blossom was at that moment only 146 
 miles distant, we have his own authority for stating that 
 no difficulties or dangers would have prevailed on him to 
 return ; but, under the circumstances in which he was 
 placed, to make any further effort in advance was incom- 
 patible with the higher duties which he owed to his officers 
 nnd crew. After a mature consideration of every thing, 
 he formed the reluctant conclusion that they had reached 
 the point where perseverance would have been rashness, 
 and their best efforts must have only led to a more calamitous 
 failure.* It was resolved therefore to return ; and on the 
 morning of the 18th of August they began their retreat to the 
 Mackenzie River, which, without any material danger, with 
 the exception of a severe gale encountered off Point Kay, they 
 regained on the 4th of September. Thence they proceeded 
 to Fort Franklin, where they met Dr. Richardson, Mr. Ken- 
 dall, and their friends of the eastern expedition, who, after 
 a prosperous and interesting voyage to the mouth of the 
 Coppermine, had returned to the Fort on the 1st September. 
 Of this interesting journey our limits will only permit a 
 very cursory glance. Fortunately for the eastern expe- 
 dition, the coast between the mouths of the Mackenzie and 
 the Coppermine Rivers presented none of those serious 
 
 * FranUin*s Second Journey, p. 16), 162, 169. 
 
 .J 
 / 
 
 •i 
 
 '« ) 
 
 
 vmH 
 
 
 ^, 
 
*' / 
 
 200 
 
 EASTERN EXPEDITION. 
 
 f 
 
 ^/' 
 
 t 
 y 
 
 ^ 
 
 obstacles which at every step were starting up in the dreary 
 and protracted route of the western party ; and they conse- 
 quently accomplished a voyage of about 500 miles, between 
 the 4th of July and 8th of August. It was eminently suc- 
 cessful in the accurate survey of this hitherto unexplored 
 coast, but unvaried by any remarkable incidents. The Es- 
 quimaux on various parts of the coast were more numerous, 
 pacific, comfortable, and wealthy than the western tribes; 
 but thoir civilization had not eradicated the propensities for 
 thieving. On one occasion the boats were surrounded by a 
 fleet of about fifty kayaks, and an attack was made exactly sim- 
 ilar to that upon Franklin ; but though the object was the 
 same it was pursued with less vigour, and the moment the 
 sailors levelled their muskets the whole party dispersed with 
 precipitation. 
 
 On arriving at Atkinson Islnnd they discovered, under 
 shelter of a chain of sand-hills drifted by the wind to the 
 height of thirty-feet, a small Esquimaux town, consisting 
 of seventeen winter houses, besides a larger building, which 
 Dr. Richardson at first conjectured to be a house of assembly 
 for the tribe. Ooligbuck the interpreter, however, whose 
 ideas were more gross and commonplace, pronounced it to 
 be a general eating-room. " This large building," says Dr. 
 Richardson, " was in the interior a square of twenty-seven 
 feet, having the log roof supported on two strong ridge-poles 
 two feet apart, and resting on four upright posts. The floor 
 in the centre formed of split logs, dressed and laid with great 
 care, was surrounded by a raised border about three feet 
 wide, which was no doubt meant for seats. The walls three 
 feet high, were inclined outwards, for the convenience of 
 leaning the back against them, and the ascent to the door, 
 which was on the south side, was formed of logs. The 
 outside, which was covered with earth, had nearly a hemi- 
 spherical form, and round its base were ranged the sculls of 
 twenty-one whales. There was a square hole in the roof, 
 and the central log of the floor had a basin-shaped cavity 
 one foot in diameter, which was perhaps intended for a 
 lamp. The general attention to comfort in the construction 
 of the village, and the erection of a building of such magni- 
 tude, requiring a union of purpose in a considerable number 
 of people, were evidences of a more advanced progress 
 towards civilization than had yet been found among the 
 
NATIVEB OF HARROWBY BAY. 
 
 201 
 
 the dreary 
 hey conse- 
 s, between 
 nently »uc- 
 unexplored 
 The Es- 
 numerous, 
 ern tribes; 
 enBities for 
 )unded by a 
 exactly sim- 
 ect was the 
 nomcnt the 
 jpersed with 
 
 vcred, under 
 wind to the 
 n, consisting 
 ilding, which 
 » of assembly 
 (vever, whose 
 nounced it to 
 tig," says Dr. 
 [twenty- seven 
 ig ridge-poles 
 }. The floor 
 lid with great 
 ut three feet 
 le walls three 
 nvenience of 
 t to the door, 
 f logs. The 
 early a hemi- 
 the sculls of 
 in the roof, 
 ihaped cavity 
 itended for a 
 construction 
 such magni- 
 jrable number 
 feed progress 
 ' among the 
 
 Esquimaux. Whalo-sculls were confined to the large build- 
 ing, and to one of the dwelling-houses, which had three or 
 four placed round it. Many wooden trays and hand-barrows 
 for carrying whale-blubber were lying on the ground, most 
 of them in a state of decay."^ 
 
 On making the traverse of Harrowby Bay, land was seen 
 round the bottom ; and on nearing shore twelve tents were 
 distinguished on an adjoining eminence. When the boats 
 appeared, a woman who was walking along the beach, gave 
 the alarm, and the men rushed out, brandishing their knives, 
 and employing the most furious expressions. In vain 
 Ooligbuck endeavoured to calm their apprehensions, explain- 
 ing that the strangers were friends ; they only replied by 
 shouts, leaps, or hideous grimaces, intended to inspire terror, 
 and displayed great agility, frequently standing on one foot 
 and throwing the other nearly as high as their head. Dr. 
 Richardson, nothing intimidated by these gesticulations, be- 
 thought himself of enouncing, at the highest key he could 
 reach, the word " Noowcerlawgo," meaning, " I wish to 
 barter," and the sound operated like a spell. The savages 
 instantly became quiet ; one of them ran to his kayak, pad- 
 dled off to the boats, and was followed by crowds, who fear- 
 lessly came alongside, readily exchanging bows, arrows, 
 spears, and dressed seal-skins, for bits of old iron-hoop, files, 
 and beads. " The females," says Richardson, " unlike 
 those of the Indian tribes, had much handsomer features 
 than the men ; and one young woman of the party would 
 have been deemed pretty even in Europe. Our presents 
 seemed to render them perfectly happy, and they danced 
 with such ecstasy in their slender boats as to incur more 
 than once great hazard of being overset. A bundle of strings 
 of beads being thrown into an oomiak, it was caught by aa 
 old woman, who hugged the treasure to her breast with the 
 strongest expression of rapture ; while another elderly dame, 
 who had stretched out her arms in vain, became the very 
 picture of despair. On its being explained, however, that 
 the present was intended for the whole party, an amicable 
 division took place ; and to show their gratitude, they sang 
 a song to a pleasing air, keeping time with their oars. They 
 gave us many pressing invitations to pass the night at their 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 817. 
 
202 
 
 llETURN TO FORT FRANKLIN. 
 
 "V 
 
 } ? 
 
 ■i .»?' 
 
 i f 
 
 tents, in which they were joined by the mm ; and to excite 
 our liberality the mothers drew their chiidrfln out of their 
 wide boots, where they arc accustomed to carry them naked, 
 and holding them up, begged beads for them. For a time 
 their entreaties were successful ; but being desirous of 
 getting clear of our visiters before breakfast-time, we at 
 length told them the stock was exhausted, and they took 
 leivve."* 
 
 The voyage, owing to the clear atmosphere, the unen- 
 cumbered state of the coast, and the abundant supply of 
 provisions, was pursued with ease and con.fort ; and on 8th 
 August having made a bold cape, rising precipitously from 
 the Bca to the height of 350 feet. Dr. Richardson and Mr. 
 Kendall climbed the promontory, and descried in the distance 
 the gap in the hills at Bloody Fall, through which the Cop- 
 permine holds its course. Delighted with the prospect of so 
 near a termination of their labours, they communicated the 
 intelligence to the crew, who received it with expressions 
 of profound gratitude to the Divine Being for his protection 
 during the voyage. On reaching the river the men were in 
 excellent condition, fresh and vigorous for the march across 
 the barren grounds on their return to Fort Franklin, which, 
 as already mentioned, they reached in safety on the Ist of 
 September. On approaching within a few days* journey of 
 the fort, a pleasant adventure occurred, characteristic of 
 Indian gratitude and friendship. The party had supped, 
 and most of the men were retired to rest, when Mr. Ken- 
 dall, in sweeping the horizon with his telescope, descried 
 three Indians coming down a hill towards the encampment. 
 More moss was thrown on the fire, and the St. George's 
 ensign hoisted on the end of a musket, to show the comers 
 that they were approaching friends ; but they hid the 
 youngest of their number in a ravine, and approached slowly 
 and with suspicion. Mr. Kendall and Dr. Richardson im- 
 mediately went unarmed to meet them, and as they came 
 up one held his bow and arrows ready in his hand, and the 
 other cocked his gun ; but as soon as they recognised the 
 doctor's dress, — the same he had worn the preceding au- 
 tumn in his voyage round Bear Lake, and which was 
 familiar to most of the Hare Indians, — they shouted in aa 
 
 * »* 
 
 FrankUa's Second Journey, p. 22ft. 
 
 ni&'-; 
 
3 to excite 
 at of their 
 em naked, 
 For a time 
 esirous of 
 ime, we at 
 I they took 
 
 the unen- 
 t supply of 
 and on 8tl» 
 tously from 
 in and Mr. 
 the distance 
 Lch the Cop- 
 rospect of so 
 unicated the 
 expressions 
 lis protection 
 men were in 
 march across 
 nklin, which, 
 m the 1st of 
 fs' journey of 
 ■acteristic of 
 had supped, 
 -n Mr. Ken- 
 jpe, descried 
 )ncampntient. 
 St. George's 
 N the comers 
 [hey hid the 
 ►ached slowly 
 ihardson im- 
 is they came 
 iand, and the 
 cognised the 
 receding au- 
 which was 
 Louted in ap 
 
 BCEClieyti VOYAGE. 
 
 203 
 
 «cstauy of joy, shook hands most cordially, and culhul loudly 
 for the young lad whom thoy had hid to t i»/ne up. »♦ The 
 meoting," says Dr. KichardNon, "was highly giilifying to 
 ourHfllves as well as to the kind natives ; ior they seemed to 
 be friends come to rejoice with us on the happy termination 
 of our voyage."* 
 
 It had nalurully occurred to government, that if the expe- 
 ditions under Captains Parry and Franklin should be success- 
 ful, their stores would bo exhausted by the time they reached 
 Bchrin^'s Strait. It was certain also that Franklin would 
 be destitute of any means of conveyance to Europe ; and 
 to supply these wants government resolved that a vessel 
 should be sent out to await their arrival in Behring's Strait. 
 For this purpose, accordingly, Captain F. W. Beochey sailed 
 in the Blossom from Spithead on the 19th May, 1825. The 
 vessel was a twenty-six gun ship ; but on this occasion 
 mounted only sixteen. She was partially strengthened, and 
 adapted to this peculiar service by increasing her stowage. 
 A boat was also supplied to be used as a tender, built as large 
 as the space on deck would allow, schooner-rigged, decked, 
 and fitted up in the most complete manner. Cloth, beads, cut- 
 lery, and various other articles of traffic, were put on board, 
 and a variety of antiscorbutics were added to the usual 
 allowance of provision. Aware that he must traverse a 
 large portion of the globe hitherto little explored, and that 
 a considerable period would elapse before his presence was 
 required on the coast of America, Captain Beechey was in- 
 structed to survey the parts of the Pacific within his reach, 
 of which it was important to navigators that a more correct 
 delineation should be laid down. These observations were 
 not, however, to retard his arrival at the appointe<l rendez- 
 vous later than the 10th of July, 1826 ; and he was directed 
 to remain at Behring's Strait to the end of October, or to 
 as late a period as the season would admit, without incurring 
 the risk of spending the winter there. During this interval 
 he was to navigate from Kotzebue's Sound northward, and 
 afterward to continue in an easterly course along the main 
 shore as far as the ice would allow. Captain Beechey's 
 survey of various portions of the Pacific does not fall within 
 the plan of this work. 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 27 i. 
 
 i 
 
 ^ • 
 
 11 
 
 } 
 
. \ 
 
 I f 
 
 
 204 
 
 NATIVES OF CAPE PRINCE OF WALES. 
 
 On the 2d of June, having left the Sandwich Isles, he 
 shaped his course for Kamtschatka, and on the 27th was 
 becalmed within six miles of Petropalauski. The best 
 guides to this harbour are a range of high mountains, on 
 one of which, upwards of 11,000 feet in height, a volcano 
 is in constant action. It was a serene and beautiful evening 
 when they approached this remote quarter of the world, 
 and all were struck with the magnificence of the mountains 
 capped with perennial snow, and rising in solemn grandeur 
 one above the other. At intervals the volcano emitted dark 
 columns of smoke ; and from a sprinkling of black spots 
 upon the snow to the leeward it was conjectured there had 
 been a recent eruption. From Petropalauski Captain Bee- 
 chey sailed on the 1st of July for Kotzebue's Sound. " W« 
 approached," says he, " the strait which separates the twc 
 great continents of Asia and America, on one of those 
 beautiful still nights well known to all who have visited th< 
 arctic regions, when the sky is without a cloud, and when the 
 midnight sun, scarcely his own diameter below the horizon, 
 tinges with a bright hue all the northern circle. Our ship, 
 propelled by an increasing breeze, glided rapidly along a 
 smooth sea, startling from her path flocks of aquatic birds, 
 whose flight in the deep silence of the scene could be traced 
 by the ear to a great distance." Having closed in with the 
 American shore some miles northward of Cape Prince of 
 Wales, they were visited by a little Esquimaux squadron 
 belonging to a village situated on a low sandy island. The 
 natives readily sold every thing they possessed, and were 
 cheerful and good-humoured, though exceedingly noisy and 
 energetic. Their bows were more slender than those of the 
 islanders to the southward, but made on the same principle, 
 with drift-pine, assisted with thongs of hide or pieces ol 
 whalebone placed at the back, and neatly bound with small 
 cord. The points of their arrows were of bone, flmt, or 
 iron, and their spears headed with the same materials. 
 Their dress was similar to that of the other tribes on the 
 coast. It consisted of a shirt, which reached half-way down 
 the thigh, with long sleeves and a hood of rein-deer skin, 
 and edged with gray or white fox-fur. Besides this they 
 had a jacket of eider-drake skins sewed together, which, 
 when engaged in war, they wore below their other dress, 
 reckoning it a tolerably efficient protection against an arrow 
 
 ■ ■? 
 
 f ; 
 
 \ ='|V 
 
 %: 
 
 
AURORA BOREAUS. 
 
 205 
 
 [ Isles, be 
 27th was 
 The best 
 intains, on 
 ^ a volcano 
 ful evening 
 the world, 
 mountains 
 n grandeur 
 mitted dark 
 black spots 
 3 there had 
 aptain Bee- 
 and. "Wc 
 ites the twc 
 ne of those 
 e visited the 
 md when the 
 the horizon, 
 . Our shipr 
 lidly along a 
 quatic birds, 
 uld be traced 
 d in with the 
 pe Prince of 
 MX squadron 
 island. The 
 ed, and were 
 gly noisy and 
 n those of the 
 ime principle, 
 or pieces ol 
 nd with small 
 bone, flint, or 
 ne materials, 
 tribes on the 
 lalf-way down 
 ein-deer skin, 
 ides this they 
 rether, which, 
 r other dress, 
 linst an arrow 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 or a spear-thrust. In wet weather they threw over the fur 
 dress a shirt made of the entrails of the whale, which, being 
 well saturated with oil and grease, was water-tight ; and 
 they also used breeches of deer's hide and seal-skin boots, 
 to the upper end of which were fixed strings of sea-horse 
 hide. It was their fashion to tie one of these strings round 
 the waist, and attach to it a long tuft of hair, the wing of a 
 bird, or sometimes a fox's tail, which, dangling behind as 
 they walked, gave them a ridiculous appearance, and may 
 probably have occasioned the report of the Tschuktschi 
 recorded in Muller that the people of this country have tailt 
 like dogs.* 
 
 On the 22d July, the ship anchored in Kotzebue's Sound, 
 and after exploring a deep inlet on its northern shore, 
 which they named Hotham Inlet, proceeded to Chamisso 
 Island, where the Blossom was to await Captain Franklin. 
 A discretionary power had, however, been permitted to 
 Captain Beechey, of employing the period of his stay in 
 surveying the coast, provided this could be done without the 
 risk of missing Captain Franklin. Having accordingly 
 directed the barge to keep in-shore on the look-out for the 
 land-party, he sailed to the northward, and doubling Cape 
 Krusenstern, completed an examination of the coast by 
 Cape Thomson, Point Hope, Cape Lisburn, Cape Beaufort, 
 and Icy Cape, the farthest point reached by Captain Cook. 
 As there were here strong indications of the ice closing in, 
 and his instructions were positive to keep in open water if 
 possible, he determined to return to Kotzebue's Sound, 
 while he despatched the barge under Mr. Elson and M. Smyth 
 to trace the coast to the north-eastward, as far as they could 
 navigate. 
 
 On this interesting service the barge set out on 17th Au- 
 gust, while Beechey returned towards Kotzebue's Sound. 
 On the night of the 25th they beheld, for the first time in 
 these northern latitudes, a brilliant display of the Aurora 
 Borealis. " It first appeared," says Captain Beechey, " in 
 an arch extending from west-by-north to north-east ; but 
 the arch shortly after its first appearance broke up and en- 
 tirely disappeared. Soon afler this, however, a new display 
 began in the direction of the western foot of the first arch, 
 
 * Beechey's Voyage, vol. i. p, 341. 
 
 S 
 
 V li 
 
 I. 
 
 r" 
 
 
f 
 
 f 
 
 206 ESQUIMAUX CHARACTER AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 preceded by a bright dame, from which emanated corusca- 
 tions of a pale straw colour. An almost simultaneous move- 
 ment occurred at both extremities of the arch, until a com- 
 plete segment was formed of wavering perpendicular radii. 
 A soon as the arch was complete, the light became greatly 
 increased, and the prismatic colours, which had before been 
 faint, now shone forth in a very brilliant manner. The 
 strongest colours, which were also the outside ones, were 
 pink and green, on the green side purple and pink, all of 
 which were as imperceptibly blended as in the rainbow. 
 The green was the colour nearest the zenith. This magni- 
 ficent display lasted a few minutes ; and the light had nearly 
 vanished, when the north-east quarter sent forth a vigorous 
 display, and nearly at the same time a corresponding co- 
 ruscation emanated from the opposite extremity. The west- 
 em foot of the arch then disengaged itself from the horizon^ 
 crooked to the northward, and the whole retired to the north- 
 east quarter, where a bright spot blazed for a moment, and 
 all was darkness. There was no noise audible during any 
 part of our observations, nor were the compasses percepti- 
 bly affected."* During the voyage back to Chamisso 
 Island, where they arrived on the 27th August, they had 
 repeated interviews with the Esquimaux, whose habits and 
 disposition were in no respect different from those of the? 
 natives already described. They found them uniformly 
 friendly, sociable, devotedly fond of tobacco, eager to en- 
 gage in traffic, and upon the whole honest, though disposed 
 to drive a hard bargain. On some occasions they attempted 
 to impose upon their customers, by skins artfully put toge- 
 ther so as to represent an entire fish ; but it was difficult to 
 determine whether they intended a serious fraud or only a 
 piece of humour, for they laughed heartily when detected, 
 and appeared to consider it a good joke. Their persons, 
 houses, and cookery were all exceedingly dirty, and their 
 mode of salutation was by a mutual contact of noses ; some- 
 times licking their hands and stroking first their own faces, 
 and afterward those of the strangers, t The rapidity with 
 which these people migrated from place to place was re- 
 markable. On one occasion the motions of two baidars 
 under sail were watched by the crew of the Blossom. The 
 
 Beechey's Voyage, vol. i. p. 387. f il^id- P> 345, 391. 
 
d corusca- 
 lous move- 
 itil a com- 
 :ular radii, 
 ne greatly 
 lefore been 
 iner. The 
 ones, were 
 pink, all of 
 e rainbow, 
 "his magni- 
 , had nearly 
 I a vigorous 
 ponding co- 
 The west- 
 the horizonj 
 to the north- 
 loment, and 
 during any 
 ses percepti- 
 o Chamisso 
 st, they had 
 se habits and 
 those of the! 
 n uniformly 
 eager to en- 
 ugh disposed 
 ey attempted 
 illy put toge- 
 as difficult to 
 ud or only a 
 jen detected, 
 [heir persons, 
 ,y, and their 
 OSes; some- 
 ir own faces, 
 rapidity with 
 ilace was re- 
 two baidars 
 lossom. The 
 
 I345, 391. 
 
 ELSON S EXPEDITION. 
 
 207 
 
 people landed at a spot near Choris Peninsula, drew up the 
 boats on the beach, turning them bottom upwards, pitched 
 tents, and in an incredibly short time transferred to them the 
 whole contents of their little vessels. On visiting the en- 
 campment an hour after, every thing was found in as com- 
 plete order as if they had been domiciliated on the spot for 
 months ; and the surprise of the sailors was raised to the 
 highest by the variety of articles which, in almost endless 
 succession, they produced from their little boats. " From 
 the two baidars they landed fourteen persons, eight tent- 
 poles, forty deer-skins, two kayaks, many hundred-weight 
 of fish, numerous skins of oil, earthen jars for cooking, two 
 living foxes, ten large dogs, bundles of lances, harpoons, 
 bows and arrows, a quantity of whalebone, skins full of 
 clothing, some immense nets made of hide for taking small 
 whales and porpoises, eight broad planks, masts, sails, pad- 
 dles, &c., besides sea-horse hides and teeth, and a variety 
 of nameless articles always to be found among the Esqui- 
 maux."* 
 
 In the mean time, Mr. Elson in the barge proceeded 
 along the shore for seventy miles, as far as a promontory, 
 denominated by Beechey Cape Barrow, which was after- 
 ward discovered to be only distant 146 miles from the ex- 
 treme point of Franklin's discoveries. Upon this new line 
 of coast posts were erected at various distances, with direc- 
 tions for Captain Franklin, should he succeed in pushing 
 so far to the westward. A frequent communication was 
 opened with the inhabitants, who were found to resemble 
 the other Esquimaux, with the unpleasant difference that 
 their manners were more rude and boisterous, and their 
 conduct in some instances decidedly hostile. Point Barrow, 
 the most northerly part of America yet discovered, formed 
 the termination to a spit of land jutting out several miles 
 from the more regular coast-line. The width of the neck 
 did not exceed a mile and a half ; on the extremity were 
 several small lakes, and on its eastern side a village. The 
 danger of being shut in by the ice was now great, and Mr. 
 Elson determined to land, obtain the necessary observations, 
 erect a post, and deposite instructions for Franklin. This 
 plan, however, was frustrated by the violent conduct of the 
 
 * Beechey'a Voyage, vol. i p. '10$, 
 
 '\' 
 
^<i 
 
 
 
 7» » 
 
 h ^ I ' 
 
 208 
 
 RETURN OF BEECHEY. 
 
 natives, who assembled in formidable numbers, and threat- 
 ened to attack the crew of the barge, which consisted only 
 of eight men. It was therefore judged prudent to proceed 
 as speedily as possible to the rendezvous at Chamisso Island, 
 which they reac'.ied on the 9th of September, not without 
 considerable difficulty, having been obliged to track the 
 barge round Cape Smyth, through a sea thickly beset with 
 ice, that threatened every moment to close with its impen- 
 etrable walls, and cut off their return. The result of Cap- 
 tain Beechey's voyage, and of the expedition undertaken 
 under his orders by Mr. Elson and Mr. Smyth, was the 
 addition of a new and extensive line of coast to the geogra- 
 phy of the polar regions. The actual distance between the 
 extreme points reached by Captain Franklin and Mr. Elson 
 being so small, there is every reason to belie ve that the 
 navigation of this remaining portion will not be attended 
 with any very formidable or insurmountable obstacles. 
 
 In the following year Beechey, in obedience to his instruc- 
 tions, returned to Kotzebue's Sound, and recommenced his 
 examination of the coast, in the hope of extending his sur- 
 vey beyond Cape Barrow, and either joining Franklin or 
 collecting some certain intelligence regarding his enterprise. 
 In both objects he had the mortification to fail : he found the 
 posts erected the preceding year and the buried bottles re- 
 maining untouched, and the state of the weather rendered 
 it necessary to put about before reaching Icy Cape. It had 
 been previously arranged, that the signal to be used by 
 Franklin, if he arrived on an unknown coast during the 
 night, should be a beacon kindled on the cliffs ; and, on 
 passing Cape Krusenstern afler dark, their attention was 
 arrested by a large fire blazing on an eminence. Every eye 
 on board was fixed on the welcome light, and every bosom 
 beat with the delightful expectation of soon seeing their 
 friends. The ship was brought-to, and hope almost passed 
 into certainty, as a boat was seen pulling from the shore. 
 On examining her through the telescope by the light of the 
 Aurora Borealis, some sanguine spirits declared they could 
 discern that she was propelled by oars instead of paddles, 
 and it needed only a slight additional exertion of the fancy 
 to be assured that the dress of the crew was European. In 
 the midst of these excited and enthusiastic feelings, the 
 harsh and boisterous voices of the natives suddenly broke on 
 
ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 
 
 209 
 
 itid thteat- 
 sisted only 
 to proceed 
 isso Island, 
 lot without 
 , track the 
 beset with 
 I its impen- 
 ult of Cap- 
 undertaken 
 th, was the 
 the geogra- 
 between the 
 a Mr. Elson 
 ve that the 
 be attended 
 stacles. 
 his instruc- 
 mroenced his 
 ding his sur- 
 Franklin or 
 is enterprise, 
 he found the 
 d bottles re- 
 her rendered 
 lape. It had 
 be used by 
 . during the 
 iflfs; and, on 
 attention was 
 Every eye 
 every bosom 
 seeing their 
 Jmost passed 
 m the shore, 
 e light of the 
 ed they could 
 d of paddles, 
 of the fancy 
 luropean. In 
 feelings, the 
 ienly broke on 
 
 I 
 
 their ear, and the pleasing picture which their imagination 
 had been so busy in constructing faded away in a moment, 
 leaving nothing before them but two sorry Esquimaux 
 baidars and their unlovely occupants. 
 
 From this point Captain Beechey's voyage presented few 
 features of new or striking interest. In Behring's Strait 
 they were visited by a splendid exhibition of the Aurora 
 Borealis, and under its coruscations of pink, purple, and 
 green rays, which shot up to the zenith in the shape of a 
 f igantic cone, they anchored off Chamisso Island. After 
 the discovery of two capacious harbours, which they named 
 Port Clarence and Grantley Harbour, they took their final 
 departure from the Polar Sea, on the 6th October, 1827. 
 On the 29th a flight of large white pelicans apprized them 
 of their approach to the coast of California ; and after touch- 
 ing at Monterey and San Bias, they arrived at Valparaiso 
 on the 29th April, 1828. On the 30th June they passed the 
 meridian of Cape Horn in a gloomy snow-storm, and made 
 Rio on the 21st July. Their voyage from Rio to England 
 was completed in forty-nine days, and they arrived at Spit- 
 head on the 12th October, 1828. He found that the expe- 
 dition of Franklin had preceded him in his return by more 
 than a year, having reached Liverpool on the 26th Septem- 
 ber, 1827 ; its transactions occupied two years and nearly 
 eight months, while Beechey had been absent on his voyage 
 three years and a half. 
 
 S3 
 
 'iliii 
 
 f 
 
ffSBf 
 
 •i, 
 
 THE 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 NORTHERN REGIONS OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^' 
 
 •wf 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Introductory Observations. 
 
 Amelioration in tlie Cliaracter of European Intercourse with uncivil- 
 ized Nations — The Absence of Sandy Deserts a grand Feature in tlie 
 Physical Attributes of America — General Boundaries of the Districts 
 afterward treated of in Detail — Early Sources of Information regard- 
 ing the Natural History of North America— General View of the Fui^ 
 countries— Passages across the Rocky Mountains— Plains and Valleys 
 along the Pacific Shore. 
 
 The preceding historical narrative will have rendered our 
 readers familiar with the progress of navigation and dis- 
 covery along the shores of North America ; while the 
 sketches which have been presented of the journeys of 
 Hearne and Mackenzie, as well as of the more recent ex- 
 peditions of Franklin and Richardson, will have exhibited 
 an accurate and interesting picture of whatever is most 
 worthy of record in the history and habits of the more cen- 
 tral tribes. The unextinguishable boldness and persevering 
 bravery of the human race are strikingly manifested by these 
 achievements in maritime and inland adventure ; and while 
 we are too often shocked by the recital of deeds of violence 
 and bloodshed, by unprovoked and unpardonable aggression 
 on the part of the invaders, and by unsparing revenge, in 
 retaliation, by the darker savage, we cannot but admire the 
 energy and reckless daring exhibited on either side, though 
 we may too often regret the want of a gentler and more 
 
 ,.# 
 
i1 
 
 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 211 
 
 CA. 
 
 !With uncivil- 
 Feaiure in the 
 f the Districts 
 mation regard- 
 ew of the Fur- 
 ins and VaUeys 
 
 rendered our 
 ion and dis- 
 , while the 
 ourneys of 
 re recent ex- 
 ive exhibited 
 !ver is most 
 he more cen- 
 persevcring 
 ited by these 
 3; and while 
 s of violence 
 le aggression 
 r revenge, in 
 it admire the 
 side, though 
 ier and more 
 
 humanizing spirit. In regard, however, to the later expe- 
 ditions, especially those from the British shores, the philan- 
 thropist and philosopher must have been alike delighted 
 by the amelioration which has taken place in our mode of 
 intercourse with the " painted men," who are no longer 
 massacred as the beasts that perish, but, even when sought 
 after originally from motives not entirely disinterested, are 
 yet regarded as beings in whom the great Creator has im- 
 planted the germ of an immortal life. But by what a cata- 
 logue of crimes was the name of Christian first made known 
 to many nations of the Western World ; and by what cruel 
 tyranny and the sword of an exterminating war were not 
 the insidious pretences of peace so often followed up by the 
 civilized nations of Europe ! The cross was indeed but a 
 vain and hollow symbol in the hands of those blood-stained 
 and avaricious men, who sought to plant upon a false foun- 
 dation that glorious banner to which God alone giveth the 
 increase. The last entry in the following sumptuous enume- 
 ration was probably omitted in the books of those proud 
 traders : — " The merchandise of gold, and silver, and pre- 
 cious stones, and of pearls, and fine linen, and purple, and 
 silk, and scarlet, and all thyine wood, and all manner ves- 
 sels of ivory, and all manner vessels of most precious wood, 
 and of brass, and iron, and marble, and cinnamon, and 
 odours, and ointments, and frankincense, and wine, and oil, 
 and fine flour, and wheat, and beasts, and sheep, and horses, 
 and chariots, and slaves, and — souls of wew."* 
 
 We have now to describe the characteristic features of 
 the Natural History of the Northern Parts of America, a 
 task rendered comparatively easy, in many important par- 
 ticulars, by the labours of those intrepid men the recital of 
 whose adventurous expeditions by land and sea has already 
 engaged the attention of the reader. Indeed, we know of 
 no better or more conclusive argument against those who 
 venture to doubt the propriety of scientific exploration, on 
 account of the uncertain fulfihnent of some of our most 
 sanguine expectations, than the great advancement which 
 has recently been effected in our natural knowledge of far 
 countries. It is true that the north-west passage has not 
 yet been achieved, and it may be true that it never will be 
 
 * Revelations, xviii. 12, 13. 
 
 ■^■l 
 
 d:i 
 
 'il 
 
^ 
 
 
 212 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ^: 
 
 achieved, consistently with the strictly utilitarian views of 
 merely commercial enterprise : but even although we should 
 never have it in our power to substitute bad muskets for the 
 arrows and harpoons of the skin-clad Esquimaux, and 
 should be for ever doomed to a continuance of our present 
 lengthened navigation to the eastern shores of Asia ; still 
 it is something to say that we have almost completed our 
 geographical knowledge of the circumference of the north- 
 ern parallels of the earth ; and that, if the merchant cannot 
 exchange his commodities by a more rapid route, a stock of 
 intellectual food and a rich library both of useful and en- 
 tertaining knowledge have been already provided, and will 
 doubtless increase for the benefit of future generations. It 
 is to the two expeditions under Sir John Franklin that we 
 owe the better part of our information 'regarding the natural 
 history of the interior districts of the fur-countries of North 
 America ; and although the collecting of specimens did cer- 
 tainly form but a secondary object in comparison with those 
 great geographical problems, the solution of ivhich was 
 looked forward to as the principal and more important re- 
 sult, yet it is gratifying to know that in the performance of 
 higher duties of difficult and dangerous achievement, these 
 jresolute men neglected nothing which could in any way 
 conduce to the completion of our knowledge of the countries 
 they explored. 
 
 Before entering into any zoological details, we shall de- 
 vote a brief space to the consideration of one of the most 
 peculiar and influential features in the physical character 
 of the New World, viz. the absence of sandy deserts. It 
 has been well observed that the physical conformation of 
 North America precludes the possibility of those arid wastes 
 They result from a want of moisture, and attach to such 
 extended plains, in the more immediate vicinity of the 
 tropics, as are too vast and disproportioned in relation to 
 the quantity of rain which nature has assigned them ; for 
 there — 
 
 " No cloud of morning dew 
 Doth travel through the waste air's pathless blue, 
 To nourish those far deserts." 
 
 They drink and are for ever dry ; for the castellated glories 
 of cloud-Land float over them in vain ; and even when rent 
 
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 213 
 
 1 views of 
 we should 
 ets for the 
 laux, and 
 ar present 
 Asia; still 
 ipleted our 
 
 the north- 
 lant cannot 
 , a stock of 
 ful and en- 
 d, and will 
 rations. It 
 ilin that we 
 the natural 
 ies of North 
 lens did cer- 
 ti with those 
 
 ;vhich was 
 nportant re- 
 •formance of 
 BHient, these 
 in any way 
 Lhe countries 
 
 we shall de- 
 of the most 
 cal character 
 . deserts. It 
 formation of 
 arid wastes 
 ach to such 
 inity of the 
 relation to 
 id them; for 
 
 blue, 
 
 Hated glories 
 jn when rent 
 
 by thunderbolts, or illuminated by the blinding glare of the 
 red lightning, they never hear the refreshing music of the 
 voice of " many waters." Geographical observation points 
 out that whenever a continent or country is expanded for 
 more than a few hundred miles beneath an equatorial sky, 
 with a surface comparatively low and flat, it will become a 
 desert. This is nothing more than the natural result of its 
 inability to be supplied with moisture. A great proportion 
 of Africa, the central regions of Asia, Arabia, and even 
 those parts of Hindostan where mountains do not prevail, 
 have become steril and deserted. Vast chasms are thus 
 created, in which neither animal nor vegetable life can 
 flourish. 
 
 New-Holland probably owes its moisture to its insular 
 situation ; and the peninsular form is no doubt highly ad- 
 vantageous in that respect to the regions of Spain, Italy, 
 Greece, and Asia Minor, while the mountain-ridges of Hin- 
 dostan render it essential service. It is chiefly owing 
 either to the vicinage of the sea, or of some alpine tract 
 of territory, that those parts of Asia and Africa which the 
 great deserts do not reach have become the fit abodes of 
 the human race. Over a great extent of Central Africa, 
 and some parts of Asia, along the coasts of the Red Sea 
 and of the Indian Ocean, there does not seem to exist a 
 sufficiency of mountain-ranges to collect from the atmo- 
 sphere such stores of moisture as are necessary to fertilize 
 those thirsty plains, and clothe their arid wastes with ver- 
 dure. No commanding Cordilleras overlook those burning 
 deserts, — no upland vales, nor cool and cloud-capped sum- 
 mits, each with its huge recess, 
 
 " That keeps till June December's snow," 
 
 serve as the perennial fountains of refreshing water. 
 
 Let us briefly consider a few of the leading physical 
 characters of America, with a view to ascertain the cause 
 of its exemption from desert regions. * Within and in the 
 vicinity of the tropic, North America is composed of what 
 
 * See a short paper entitled " The United States are exempt from 
 Deserts, and all the Evils consequent thereon," published in Mr. 
 Featherstonhaugh's Monthly American Journal of Ceology and Natural 
 Science, rbiladelpbia, August, 1831. 
 
 \H\ 
 
 jW 
 
 1 
 
 •^H 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 \m\ 
 
 
 iH( 
 
 ./ 
 
<#«■ 
 
 214 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 « . 
 
 
 H 
 i^ 
 
 ^Hk 
 
 ■ f 
 
 « 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 / , 
 
 wJ 
 
 : 1 
 
 
 mMvi 
 
 • 
 
 ;;! 
 
 HI 
 
 ' 
 
 )i 
 
 
 
 
 may) comparatively, bo regarded as a narrow slip. It en- 
 joys all the advantages of an insular position, and is re- 
 freshed on either side b^ the vapours of the translucent 
 sea. Besides, the Cordilleras traverse the whole space, 
 rising upon the Mexican table-land to an elevation of 
 11,000 feet. All the winds of heaven, and especially the 
 deeply-saturated trades, pour forth their never-ceasing 
 vapours on this well-disposed region, and clothe its length- 
 ened slopes and undulating plains with all the rich luxu- 
 riance of a life-sustaining vegetation. " These friendly 
 mountains, after upheaving the tropical parts of our con- 
 tinent to the regions of eternal verdure, bear aloft their 
 wide-spread arms (the Chipewyan and Alleghany ranges) 
 as far as it is necessary to counteract the heats of a south- 
 ern sun, and impart fertility to the great valley of the 
 Mississippi, which seems especially confined to their fos- 
 tering care. But when elevations become no longer essen- 
 tial to the certainty of moisture and vegetation, they sink 
 into the great plains of Canada, and disappear. How wise 
 is this arrangement ! For, if these mountains had carried 
 their characteristic elevation far north, they would have 
 chilled with their eternal snows all the northern portion 
 of our country, and rendered it barren, — not from drought 
 and deserts, but, what is equally to be deprecated, the 
 blights of intolerable cold. These friendly ranges of 
 mountains are thus the everlasting guarantee of our coun- 
 try's fertility. The Alleghany range derives its moisture 
 from the Atlantic, and waters not only all the states that 
 intervene between it and that ocean, but the states and dis- 
 tricts that rest upon its western base, and contributes its 
 full part to the great plains of Mississippi and Missouri. 
 The Rocky or Chipewyan range draws heavily from the 
 Pacific Ocean, and abundantly waters, not only that slope, 
 but the extended plains which meet its eastern base. The 
 narrow slopes of the two ranges of mountains which bor- 
 der the two oceans are easily and very naturally irrigated 
 from those oceans ; and their slopes, pointing inwards from 
 the oceans and the plains immediately in contact with them, 
 draw moisture from the numerous founts and reservoirs of 
 the mountains themselves. The great valley of the Mis- 
 sissippi, however, is too extensive, and too important to 
 the rising generation of this country, to be left to any 
 
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 215 
 
 ip. It en- 
 and ia rc- 
 ranslucent 
 lolo space, 
 levation of 
 )ecially the 
 ver-ccasing 
 its length- 
 rich luxu- 
 ise friendly 
 of our con- 
 aloft their 
 any ranges) 
 of a south- 
 alley of the 
 to their fos- 
 )nger essen- 
 n, they sink 
 How wise 
 1 had carried 
 would have 
 lem poTtion 
 from urovight 
 recated, the 
 ' ranges of 
 )f our coun- 
 its moisture 
 states that 
 ates and dis- 
 antributes its 
 [id Missouri, 
 vily from the 
 that slope, 
 base. The 
 s which bor- 
 ally irrigated 
 inwards from 
 ct with them, 
 reservoirs of 
 of the Mis- 
 important to 
 left to any 
 
 \ 
 
 LI 
 
 uncertain supply of moisture. The sources of the mountains 
 with which it is enfiladed might prove to be inadequate^ 
 and certainly would, if all depended on them. Other 
 guarantees are found, and powerful aids provided in the 
 case. That great valley opens itself without barrier, on the 
 southern end, to the trade-winds, which become deflected 
 by the Mexican coast, enter it fraught with all the moisture 
 of the gulf, and deposite on this region a supply literally 
 inexhaustible, because those winds themselves arc per- 
 petual."* 
 
 But even should the vast masses of vapour which gather 
 over these majestic mountains, and are carried thither by 
 the trade-winds, be insutHeient to su[)ply with moisture the 
 almost boundless plains of the Western World, Providence 
 has there collected the mightiest reservoirs of fresh water 
 which exist on the surface of the known earth. The vast 
 lakes of Canada, over which the winds are perpetually 
 sweeping, and from which arise innumerable clouds of 
 vapour, ensure a never-failing supply of water to the con- 
 tiguous portions of the plain. Thus, table-lands and rocky 
 mountains, a circumambient ocean, and the most magnificent 
 internal reservoirs, all co-operate to ensure, especially to 
 the territory of the United States, a perpetual supply of 
 moisture. The natural fertility of the soil is therefore 
 great, and yields abundantly and with certainty to the 
 wants of man. This humidity is moreover well-tempered, 
 and is rarely poured forth in superabundance. In some 
 northern European countries, and even in Great Britain 
 and Ireland, our own familiar homes, the crops more fre- 
 quently fail from excess than deficiency of moisture. In 
 the former case, the grain is either blighted in the field, or 
 it moulds and rots in the granary, or acquires a musty smell 
 and flavour which render it unfit for the production of the 
 finer breads. 
 
 Wherever deserts prevail to a great extent, they not only 
 prevent vegetation, and, consequently, preclude the possi- 
 bility of a numerous population, but they also exercise a 
 prejudicial influence over all the habitable neighbouring re- 
 gions. They draw from them their moisture, and thus 
 render their vegetation precarious. The heats that steam 
 
 Ibid. 
 
 1 1- 
 
216 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 1 
 
 from deserts enfeeble the vegetable life of the adjoining 
 districts, and the sirocco-winds, collecting deleterious mat- 
 ters from their fevered surface, carry languor, disease, and 
 death in their course, and convert the verdant freshness of 
 nature into an arid wilderness. When the seasons and 
 the climate of a country are uncertain, when no human 
 effort can control them, and no art or foresight render the 
 results of labour available, the human creature himself par- 
 takes of the wildncfls and irregularity of outward nature, 
 and is either a victim of the wrathful elements, or a fierce 
 and relentless devastator in his turn. Even the very form 
 of man, in connexion with deserts, is deprived of much of 
 its natural symmetry ; it is thin, dry, emaciated, and of a 
 black or swarthy hue. He seems there formed, as it were, 
 to drift with the sands, to move his limber and clastic frame 
 with all the quickness that uncertainty may require ; but he 
 possesses not the muscular powers requisite to continuous 
 and effective labour. " In such countries population is 
 sparse, and the few who draw a scanty support from the 
 stinted and uncertain vegetation are unfixed in their habits, 
 and wanderers. They realize nothing — improve not their 
 condition — are actuated by the sudden impulses of want, or 
 the emergency occasioned by the irregularities of the ele- 
 ments around them. If industry exists not, and human 
 labour be unavailable, none of those improvements which 
 change the condition of our race, and give to us character 
 and comfort, have any existence. Without surplus produc- 
 tion there can be no commercial exchanges ; a limit is thus 
 placed to social improvement, and a barrier erected against 
 civilization. Man, under such a state of things, cannot 
 multiply his race, because his supply of food is limited, — 
 nor create wealth, because his labour is unproductive and 
 without stimulus, — nor make valuable improvements in the 
 arts, comforts, and intercourse of society, because he has 
 neither the means nor the necessary numbers, — nor can he 
 polish and refine himself, because his state of society is 
 essentially wild and violent."* In America the natural 
 condition and consequent tendency of all things is widely 
 different, for the human race is there exempted from deserts 
 and their concomitant evils. Hence a mighty power of fer- 
 
 1 
 
 Ffeutherstoiihaughs Monthly American Joarnal, vol. i. p. 80. 
 
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 217 
 
 B adjoining 
 jriouB mat- 
 lisease, and 
 reshnesB of 
 leasons and 
 I no human 
 t render the 
 himself par- 
 krard nature, 
 8, or a fierce 
 le very form 
 of much of 
 :ed, and of a 
 (1, as it were, 
 elastic frame 
 quire; hut he 
 Lo continuous 
 population is 
 port from the 
 n their habits, 
 rove not their 
 ses of want, or 
 les of the ele- 
 ;, and human 
 ements which 
 ,) us character 
 [urplus pToduc- 
 'a limit is thus 
 frected against 
 [hings, cannot 
 1 is limited, — 
 productive and 
 ements in the 
 jcause he has 
 i,— nor can he 
 of society is 
 the natural 
 Engs is widely 
 ]d from deserts 
 power of fer- 
 
 I vol. i. V 
 
 80. 
 
 
 tility is slumbering even among the most unpeopled wastes; 
 and nothing is wanting l>ut the skill and perseverance of 
 man to make the " desert bloHsom as the rose." 
 
 " Pure element of wator» '. whercsoe'er 
 
 Thou (lost roraake thy subterranean haunts, 
 
 Green herbs, bright tlovvers, and berry-bearing plants 
 Rise into life, and in thy train appear ; 
 And, throuKh thuHunny portion of the year, 
 
 Mwit't inHecta Hliino.thy hovering pursuivants. 
 
 But if thy bounty Aiil, the fureHt pants, 
 And hart atid hind, and hunter with his spear, 
 
 Languish and droop togetlior." 
 
 The portion of North America with the natural history 
 of which we are now about to be engaged is exclusive of 
 the southern parts of the Canadas, and of the whole of the 
 United States. But it comprehends the entire of those vast 
 territories which lie to the northward of the 48th parallel, 
 from the northern shore of Lake Superior to Melville Island, 
 in relation to latitude ; and from Newfoundland and the 
 eastern cape of Labrador to the peninsula of Alaska, the 
 western termination of the Russian dominions in America, 
 in regard to longitude.* These districts are very generally 
 known under the name of the American /wr-couw^ric* ; and 
 it is indeed to the employes of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany and other commercial travellers that we are largely 
 indebted for information regarding the zoological productions 
 of several extensive tracts. For example : the earliest collec- 
 tions of the birds of Hudson's Bay were formed about ni ety 
 
 * In speaking or the boundaries of the almost boundless territories of 
 the Russian dominion, we feel inclined to qualify the expression by the 
 words used in the spirited inscription engraved on the piece of plate pre- 
 sented to Colonel Behm. That gentleman was commandant of the 
 province of Kamtschatka in the time of Captain Cook, and had enter- 
 tained the great navigator and his crews in a humane and irenerous 
 spirit. The inscription, of which the composition is graceful, runs as 
 follows: 
 
 ViKO GOREQio maono de Bbhm ; qui Imperatricis Augustlssimas 
 CatherinsB auspiciis, summ&que animi benignitate, saBva.quibus preeerat, 
 Kamtschatkse littora, navibus nautisque Britannicis hospita prsebuit; 
 eosque in terminis, si qui essent Imperio Russico, (Vust r-<\ explorandis, 
 mala multa perpeasos iterattt vice excepit, refecit, recryavit, et com- 
 meatA omni cumulate auctos dimisit ; Rki navalis BaiTAr'Nic* skp- 
 TKMviKi in aliquam benevolentia: tam insignis memoriam, amicissimo 
 gratiusimoque animo, suo, patriseque nomine, D. D. D. 
 
 MDCCLXXXI. 
 
 t; 
 
 I 
 
 ! 
 
 
 tV 
 
 ■)! 
 
 M 
 
 f 
 
 '■ i: '1 
 
218 
 
 NATtTRAL HISTORY. 
 
 years ago by Mr. Alexander Light, who was sent out by 
 the company in consequence of his knowledge of natural 
 history. It has been also recorded that Mr. Isham, for a 
 long time a resident governor of various forts in the fur- 
 countries, occupied his leisure in preparing the skins of 
 beasts, birds, and fishes. These two gentlemen, we are in- 
 formed by Dr. Richardson, returned to England about the 
 year 1745, and, fortunately for the advancement of science, 
 intrusted their specimens to Mr. George Edwards, the in- 
 genious author of the " Natural History of Birds, and other 
 rare undescribed Animals," — a publication which has been 
 characterized as the most original and valuable work of the 
 kind in the English language. In the course of the year 
 1749, Ellis* and Drage,t the latter of whom was clerk to 
 the California, published the respective narratives of their 
 voyage, both of which tend to the illustration of natural 
 history. 
 
 Little information appears to have been received regard- 
 ing these northern regions for about twenty years succeed- 
 ing the last-mentioned period. Mr. William Wailes went 
 to Hudson's Bay in 1768 for the purpose of making ob- 
 servations on the transit of Venus, and was intrusted on 
 his return by Mr. Graham, governor of the company's fort 
 at Severn River, with a collection of quadrupeds, birds, and 
 fishes, for presentation to the Royal Society. These speci- 
 mens were described by John Rein hold Forster,;]: and ap- 
 pear to have excited so much attention that the Royal 
 Society requested that directions should be given by the 
 governor and committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 with a view to the more frequent and extensive collection 
 and transmission of objects of natural history. Accord- 
 ingly several hundred specimens of animals and plants, col- 
 lected at Fort Albany, were transmitted by Mr. Humphrey 
 Martin. His successor, Mr. Hutchins, was still more in- 
 dustrious ; for he not only prepared numerous specimens, 
 but drew up minute descriptions of whatever quadrupeds 
 and birds he could procure. It was in fact from his ob- 
 servations (preserved in a folio volume in the Library of 
 
 '•A 
 
 
 1 Ilii 
 
 * Voyage to Hudson's Bay in the Dobbs and California, 
 t Voyage by Hudson's Straits. 
 % Philosophical Transactions, 1772. 
 
 \^' 
 
n 
 
 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 219 
 
 jnt out by 
 of natural 
 liam, foT a 
 1 the fur- 
 I skins of 
 we are in- 
 1 about the 
 of science, 
 ds, the in- 
 , and other 
 li has been 
 vork of the 
 )f the year 
 as clerk to 
 res of their 
 , of natural 
 
 ived regard- 
 irs succeed- 
 iTailes went 
 making ob- 
 intrusted on 
 npany's fort 
 s, birds, and 
 rhese speci- 
 er,t and ap- 
 the Royal 
 ;iven by the 
 [y Company, 
 [ve collection 
 •y, Accord- 
 l plants, col- 
 :. Humphrey 
 ItUl more in- 
 specimens, 
 quadrupeds 
 ifom his ob- 
 ie Library of 
 
 lifomia. 
 
 
 the Hudson's Bay Company*) that Pennant and Latham 
 chiefly derived whatever was valuable in their workst re- 
 garding the feathered tribes of Hudson's Bay. Cook's third 
 ▼oyage threw some light, from circumstances not now very 
 efficient, on the species of the north-west of America and 
 Behring's Straits.t Pennant's "Arctic Zoology" was 
 published in 1785, and contains the most ample descriptive 
 catalogue of arctic American quadrupeds and birds which 
 had appeared prior to Dr. Richardson's recent volumes. 
 
 These may be regarded as among the more accurate 
 sources of information up to the commencement of our own 
 scientific expeditions by land and sea, — for although Um- 
 iiraville and Heame no doubt illustrate the habits of some 
 of the more common species, and the well-known voyages 
 of Vancouver, Portlock, Meares, and Langsdorff to the 
 north-west, — and the journeys of Lewis and Clarke to the 
 banks of the Columbia, contribute to our stock of know- 
 ledge, yet no very important results were thereby obtained. 
 The naturalists attached to Kotzebue's expedition also ac- 
 quired some information regarding the zoology of the 
 north-west coasts ; and the Appendix to Captain Beechey's 
 Voyage, now in preparation, will probably throw consider- 
 able light on those forlorn regions of the world. ^ 
 
 * For this information we are indebted to Dr. Richardson. Fauna 
 Boreali-Americana, vol. ii., Introduction, p. xi. 
 
 t Arctic Zoology, and General Synopsis of Birds. 
 
 i From the want of engraved representations, and the subsequent 
 destruction or dispersion of the specimens collected, it is now difficult 
 to identify the species with precision. 
 
 ^ We should gladly have availed ourselves of the information con- 
 tained in the Zoological Appendix to Captain Beechey's published voy- 
 age, which we understand has been for some time printed. It has not 
 yet, however, made its appearance. Few specimens of quadrupeds 
 were brought by that expedition from North America ; and we are in- 
 formed that the only new one was a squirrel trom California. Dr. 
 Richardson has supplied a list of all the mammalia known to inhabit 
 the Paciflc coast to the north of California. It includes 70 species, of 
 which the following are not in the Fauna Boreali-Americana : viz. Canis 
 ochropus, Eschschultz, Zoologisch. All. pi. 2; Felis concolor ; F. onca; 
 six species of seal; Trichechus rosmarus ; Didelpkis Vvrginiana; 
 Arvicola rubricatus (Rich.), described from Mr. Collie's notes— (this 
 animal was obtained in Behring's Straits, but no specimen was brought 
 home ; it is allied to Arvicola aconomus of Pallas) ; Arctomys caligata, 
 Eschsch.pl. 6, a species resembling Arctomys pruinosv^ of FenUAM ; 
 and Sciurus Colliati (Rich.), from San Bias, California. 
 
 We are ftirther informed that in this fbrthcoming Appendix, Mr. Vigors 
 enumerates nearly 100 species of birds; but as the localities at wbicb 
 
 1 
 
PF^l^ 
 
 220 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ! 
 
 > IP ' 
 
 'il 
 
 The most exact and systematic information which we 
 possess regarding the zoology of the extreme northern 
 shores and insular groups of America is contained in the 
 Appendices to the Voyages of Captains Ross and Parry» 
 in Mr. Joseph Sabine's Appendix to the Narrative of Sir 
 John Franklin's first Journey, and in Dr. Richardson's 
 " Fauna Boreali- Americana," — a work lately characterized 
 as an " admirable volume, which, while it conveys more 
 substantial information on the subject of arctic zoology 
 than any publication that has appeared since the time of 
 Pennant, is also highly valuable as correcting the occasional 
 errors of that excellent work, and adding all the most use- 
 ful and interesting information which has been more re- 
 cently acquired."* The best account which we yet possess 
 of the zoology of Greenland is that of Otho Fabricius.t 
 The ornithology of that country has likewise been ably 
 illustrated by Captain Sabine.^ 
 
 We shall now proceed to give a concise general view of 
 the nature of the different tracts of country of which we 
 are afterward to describe the zoological productions. This 
 we shall do in conformity with the views so lucidly presented 
 by Dr. Richardson.^ 
 
 The Rocky Mountains form the most interesting and 
 prominent feature in the physical geography of North 
 America. Though much nearer the western than the 
 eastern shore of that great continent, they appear to form, 
 in relation to the distribution both of plants and animals, 
 a strongly-marked line of demarcation, which presents a 
 barrier to the progress or migration of many species. No 
 doubt, the direction of this vast chain being from south to 
 north, it lies in the line of, rather than at right angles to, 
 the usual course of migration, and therefore opposes a less 
 formidable barricade than if it were stretched across the 
 continent. As it is, however, the natural productions 
 which occur on the plains on different sides of this length- 
 
 they were procured were not originally noted with precision, it will be 
 the more difficult to define the ranges of those which characterize the 
 northern regions. 
 
 Few northern fishes were obtained ; but Mr. Bennet has Aimished an 
 account of such as were procured at Kamtschatka. 
 
 * Edinburgh Review, No. 1U6, p. 346. t Fauna Groenlandica. 
 
 t Memoir on the Birds of Greenland. Linn. Trans, vol. xii. 
 
 $ Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i., Introduction, p. xix. xxiv. 
 
 i i 
 
 \ 
 

 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 221 
 
 ftirnished an 
 
 ened range exhibit a considerable dissimilarity. Nature, 
 under the regulation of the laws of Providence, has no 
 doubt made many exceptions to this rule in favour of species 
 which occur on both sides of the chain ; but the distribu- 
 tion both of plants and animals, if not regulated, is at least 
 modified by the intervention of these mountains. 
 
 This continuous chain, of which the loftiest peak attains 
 to an elevation of 15,000 feet, stretches from Mexico in a 
 north-west direction, and, pursuing a course nearly paral- 
 lel with the shores of the Pacific Ocean, terminates about 
 the 70th degree of north latitude, to the westward of the 
 mouth of the Mackenzie River, and within sight of the 
 Arctic Sea. Though much inferior in height to the Andes 
 of the southern continent, of which, however, in a general 
 sense, they may be regarded as the northern continuation, 
 they greatly exceed in elevation the other mountain-chains 
 of North America. This, indeed, becomes apparent from 
 a consideration of the courses of the great rivers of the 
 country, all of which, with the exception of the lake-born 
 St. Lawrence, derive their sources and primary streams 
 from the Rocky Mountains, however different may be the 
 direction in which their waters flow. The Columbia, for 
 example, which falls into the Northern Pacific Ocean in the 
 46th parallel, derives its primary streams from the western 
 slopes of the same rocky chain, the eastern sides of which 
 give rise to the waters of the Missouri, which, following a 
 south-easterly and southern direction, terminate their long- 
 continued course of 4500 miles in the Gulf of Mexico. 
 The Saskatchawan, in both its great branches, likewise 
 flows from the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains, and, 
 uniting its streams a short way below Carlton House, it 
 flows through Lake Winipeg, and then, assuming the name 
 of Nelson River, it empties itself, in the vicinity of Cape 
 Tatnam, into Hudson^s Bay. In like manner, the Mac- 
 kenzie, which, in respect of size, may be regarded as the 
 third river in North America (being inferior to the Missouri 
 and St. Lawrence alone), derives its two main branches, 
 the Elk and Peace Rivers, from these mountains ; and ere 
 long, flowing northwards and in h north-westerly direction, 
 it opens its numerous mouths into the Polar Sea, after a 
 course of nearly 2000 miles. It may be mentioned as a 
 singular fact, that the Peace River actually rises on the 
 
 T2 
 
 :»1 
 
 I 
 
 :' il 
 
V,- 
 
 
 •1»» 
 
 222 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 
 western side of the Rocky Mountain ridge, within 300 yards 
 of the source of the Tacootchesse, or Fraser's River, which 
 flows into the Strait of Georgia, on the western shore.* 
 
 At a considerable distance below its issue from Great 
 Slave Lake, and where the Mackenzie makes its first near 
 approach to the Rocky Mountains, it is joined by a large 
 stream which runs a little to the northward of the Peace 
 River, and flows along the eastern base of the mountains. 
 It was called the River of the Mountains by Sir Alexander 
 Mackenzie ; but it has since, on account of its great mag- 
 nitude, become more generally recognised by the traders 
 under the name of the South Branch of the Mackenzie. 
 The Mackenzie also receives several other large streams in 
 the course of its seaward journey, and among others Great 
 Bear Lake River, whose head-waters draw their source 
 from the imnks of the Coppermine River, and Peel's River, 
 which issues from the Rocky Mountains in latitude 67°. 
 ** Immediately after the junction of Peel's River," Dr. 
 Richardson observes, " the Mackenzie separates into nume- 
 rous branches, which flow to the sea through a great delta 
 composed of alluvial mud. Here, from the richness of the 
 soil, and from the river bursting its icy chains compara- 
 tively very early in the season, and irrigating the low delta 
 with the waiTner waters brought from countries ten or 
 twelve degrees farther to the southward, trees flourish, and 
 a more luxuriant vegetation exists than in any place in the 
 same parallel on the North American continent."t In lati- 
 tude 68°, there are many groves of handsome white spruce- 
 firs, and in latitude 6 i°, on the desolate shores of the Polar 
 Sea, dense and well-grown willow-thickets cover the flat 
 islands ; while currants and gooseberries grow on the drier 
 hummocks, accompanied by showy epilobiums and peren- 
 nial lupins. The moose-deer, the beaver, and the American 
 hare follow this extension of a life-sustaining vegetation, 
 and the existence of these herbivorous animals induces a 
 corresponding increase in the localities of wolves, foxes, and 
 other predaceous kinds. 
 
 The above-mentioned are the principal rivers which 
 traverse the fur-countries of America. There are, however, 
 a few others of smaller size, the banks of which yielded 
 
 * Edinburgh Review, No. 106, p. 352, 
 
 t Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i., Introduction^ p. xxii. 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 -4* 
 
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 223 
 
 1 300 yards 
 ver, which 
 
 shore.* 
 rom Great 
 s first near 
 
 by a large 
 
 the Peace 
 mountains. 
 
 Alexander 
 great mag- 
 the traders 
 Mackenzie. 
 I streams in 
 thers Great 
 heir source 
 •eel's River, 
 atitude 67°. 
 [liver," Dr. 
 I into nume- 
 i great delta 
 iness of the 
 is compara- 
 he low delta 
 tries ten or 
 
 ourish, and 
 Iplace in the 
 ,"t In lati- 
 Ihite spruce- 
 lof the Polar 
 
 iver the flat 
 
 Ion the drier 
 and peren- 
 
 iC American 
 vegetation, 
 s induces a 
 
 I, foxes, and 
 
 ivers which 
 Ire, however, 
 Jich yielded 
 
 ). xxii. 
 
 their share of the natural history collections, and may 
 therefore be briefly noticed. Hayes River takes its origin 
 from the neighbourhood of Lake Winipeg, and, afl;er run- 
 ning a course almost parallel to that of Nelson's River, it 
 falls into the same quarter of Hudson's Bay. York Factory, 
 so frequently mentioned in the narratives of our northern 
 expeditions, stands on the low alluvial point that separates 
 the mouths of these two rivers. The Missinnippi, or, as 
 it is sometimes called, the English River, falls into Hud- 
 son's Bay at Churchill. Its upper stream is denominated 
 the Beaver River, and takes its rise from a small ridge of 
 hills, intermediate between a bend of the Elk River and the 
 northern branch of the Saskatchawan. Lastly, the Copper- 
 mine River derives its origin not far from the east end of 
 Great Slave Lake, and pursuing a northerly course, already 
 made familiar to our readers, it flows through the Barren 
 Grounds into the Arctic Sea. It is inferior in size to several 
 branches of the Mackenzie ; and as there are few alluvial 
 deposites along its banks, it is deficient in that compara- 
 tive luxuriance of vegetation which, along the banks of the 
 Mackenzie, induces several species of herbivorous quadru- 
 peds to seek a higher latitude than they elsewhere attain. 
 Did our limits permit we could dwell with pleasure on this 
 example of the interconnexion or mutual dependence of the 
 links of a lengthened chain of facts in natural history. 
 
 There are various practicable passages across the Rocky 
 Mountains. Sir Alexander Mackenzie crossed them in the 
 year 1793, at the head of the Peace River, between lati- 
 tudes 55° and 56*^. The same route was followed in 1806 
 by a party of the North-west Company, who went to form 
 a settlement in New-Caledonia. It is still occasionally 
 used by the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. In 
 the year 1805, Lewis and Clarke eflfected a passage at the 
 head of the Missouri, in latitude 47°, on their way to the 
 mouth of the Columbia. Dr. Richardson informs us, that 
 for several years subsequent to that period, the North-west 
 Company were in the habit of crossing in latitude 62^°, 
 at the head of the north branch of the Saskatchawan, be- 
 tween which and one of the feeding streams of the Columbia 
 there is a short portage ; but of late years, owing to the 
 hostility of the Indians, that route has been deserted, and 
 the Hudson's Bay Company, who now engross the whole 
 
224 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 r,. 
 
 of the fur trade of that country, make use of a more 
 lengthened portage between the northern branch of the 
 Columbia and the Red Deer River, one of the branches of 
 the Elk. or Mackenzie. We are likewise informed that at- 
 tempts have been recently made to effect a passage in the 
 62d parallel of latitude ; but although suveral ridges of the 
 mountains were crossed, it does not appear that any stream 
 flowing towards the Pacific was attained. 
 
 The latest journeys across the Rocky Mountains with 
 which we happen to be acquainted are those of Messrs. 
 Drnmmond and Douglas, two skilful and enterprising bota- 
 nists, both belonging professionally to that high class of 
 practical horticulturists for which Scotland has been long 
 famous, and of which she is so justly proud. 
 
 Mr. Drummond acted in the capacity of assistant-natu- 
 ralist to Sir John Franklin's second overland expedition, and 
 it was to his unrivalled skill in collecting, and indefatigable 
 zeal, that Dr. Richardson was indebted for a large propor- 
 tion both of the botanical and zoological productions. He 
 continued at Cumberland House in 1825, and occupied him- 
 self collecting plants during the month of July, .after the 
 main body of the expedition had departed northwards. He 
 then ascended the Saskatchawan for 660 miles, to Edmonton 
 House, performing much of the journey on foot, and amass- 
 ing objects of natural history by the way. He left Edmon- 
 ton House on the 22d of September, and crossing a thickly- 
 wooded swampy country to Red Deer River, a branch of 
 the Elk or Athabasca, he travelled along its banks until he 
 reached the Rocky Mountains, the ground being by this 
 time covered with snow. Having explored the portage-road 
 for fifty miles across the mountains towards the Columbia 
 River, he hired an Indian hunter, with whom he returned 
 to the head of the Elk River, on which he passed the winter 
 making collections, under privations which Dr. Richardson 
 observes, " would have effectually quenched the zeal of a 
 less hardy naturalist." He revisited the Columbia portage- 
 road during the month of April, 1826, and continued in that 
 vicinity until the 1 0th of August, after which he made a 
 journey to the head-waters of the Peace River, during 
 which he suffered severely from famine. But, nothing 
 daunted, our enduring countryman, as soon' as he had ob- 
 tained a supply of provisions, hastened back to the Columbia 
 
XNTRODTTCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 225 
 
 a more 
 [i of the 
 inches of 
 d that ai- 
 re in the 
 es of the 
 ly stream 
 
 ains with 
 f Messrs. 
 sing bota- 
 h class of 
 been long 
 
 tant-natu- 
 Ution, and 
 lefatigable 
 ge propor- 
 tions, lie 
 upied him- 
 , after the 
 vards. He 
 Edmonton 
 ind amass- 
 jft Edmon- 
 r a thickly- 
 * l)ranch of 
 ks until he 
 ng by this 
 artage-road 
 Columbia 
 le returned 
 the winter 
 ichardson 
 zeal of a 
 lia portage- 
 lued in that 
 he made a 
 er, during 
 It, nothing 
 he had ob- 
 Columbia 
 
 portage, with the view of crossing to that river, and bota- 
 nizing for a season on its banks. Hov^rever, when he had 
 reached the west end of the portage, he was overtaken by 
 letters from Sir John Franklin, informing him that it was 
 necessary to be at York Factory in 1827. He was there- 
 fore obliged to commence his return, greatly to his own 
 regret ; for a transient view of the Columbia had stimulated 
 his desire to investigate its natural treasures. " The snow," 
 he observes, " covered the ground too deeply to permit me 
 to add much to my collections in this hasty trip over the 
 mountains ; but it was impossible to avoid noticing the 
 great superiority of the climate on the western side of that 
 lofty range. From the instant the descent towards the 
 Pacific commences, there is a visible improvement in the 
 growth of timber, and the variety of forest-trees greatly 
 increases. The few mosses that I gleaned in the excursion 
 were so fine that I could not but deeply regret that I was un- 
 able to pass a season or two in that interesting region." He 
 now reluctantly turned his back upon the mountains, and, 
 returning by Edmonton House, where he spent some time, 
 he joined Dr. Richardson at Carlton House, on his homeward 
 journey. Mr. Drummond's collections on the mountains 
 and plains of the Saskatchawan amounted to about 1500 
 species of plants, 150 birds, 50 quadrupeds, and a consider- 
 able number of insects. He remained at Carlton House 
 for six weeks afler Dr. Richardson had left that place, and, 
 descending to Cumberland House, he there met Captain 
 Back, whom he accompanied to York Factory. He had 
 previously, however, had the pleasure of being joined by a 
 countryman and kindred spirit, Mr. David Douglas, the 
 other indefatigable collector to whom we have already 
 alluded. Mr. Douglas had been engaged in gatherins 
 plants for three years for the Horticultural Society, in North 
 California and on the banks of the Columbia River. He 
 had crossed the Rocky Mountains from the westward, at 
 the head of the Elk River, by the same portage-road pre- 
 viously traversed by Mr. Drummond, and having spent a 
 short time in visiting the Red River of Lake Winipeg, he 
 returned to England along with Mr. Drummond by the way 
 of Hudson's Bay.* " Thus, a zone of at least two degrees 
 
 ** Those enterprising men have been for a consiaerable period respec- 
 tively engaged in a second journey of great extent, through various 
 
 Vf'_: 
 
 ■»*. 
 
 m. 
 
226 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 of latitude in width, and reaching entirely across the conti- 
 nent, from the mouth of the Columbia to that of the Nelson 
 River of Hudson*s Bay, has been explored by two of the 
 ablest and most zealous collectors that England has ever 
 sent forth ; while a zone of similar width, extending at 
 right angles with the other from Canada to the Polar Sea, 
 has been more cursorily examined by the expeditions."* 
 
 That widely-extended tract of territory which lies to the 
 eastward of the Rocky Mountains, and to the north of the 
 Missouri and the Great Lakes, is now well known to the 
 Hudson's Bay traders, with exception of the shores of the 
 Polar Sea, and a corner, bounded to the westward by the 
 Coppermine River, Great Slave, Athabasca, Wollaston, and 
 Deer Lakes, to the southward by the Churchill or Missin- 
 nippi, and to the northward and eastward by the sea. 
 When viewed under a zoological aspect, we find that this 
 north-eastern corner, more particularly known under the 
 name of the "Barren Grounds," carries its purely arctic 
 character farther to the south than any of the other me- 
 ridians. This very bare and desolate portion of America is 
 almost entirely destitute of wood, except along the banks 
 of its larger rivers. The rocks of this district are primi- 
 tive, and rarely rise to such an elevation as to deserve the 
 name of mountain-ridges, being rather an assemblage of 
 low hills with rounded summits, and more or less precipitous 
 sides. The soil of the narrow valleys which separate these 
 hills is either an imperfect peat-earth, affording nourish- 
 ment to dwarf birches, stunted willows, larches, and black 
 spruce-trees, — or, more generally, it is composed of a rocky 
 debris, consisting of dry, coarse, quartzose sand, unadapted 
 to other vegetation than that of lichens. The centres of the 
 larger valleys are filled with lakes of limpid water, which 
 are stored with fish, even though frequently completely land- 
 locked. More generally, however, one of these lakes dis- 
 charges its waters into another, through a narrow gorge, by a 
 turbulent and rapid stream ; and, indeed, most of the rivers 
 which irrigate these barren grounds may almost be viewed 
 as a chain of narrow and connected lakes. The rein-deer or 
 
 regions of North America. The difTerent departments of natural history 
 are expected to gain a rich harvest by tbeir zealous and discriminating 
 labours. 
 " Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i., Introduction, p. xviii. 
 
 
 ,4*a' 
 
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 227 
 
 caribou, and the musk-ox, are the prevailing quadrupeds of 
 these unproductive wastes, where the absence of fur-bearing 
 species has prevented any settlement by the traders. The 
 only human inhabitants are the Cfiribou-eaters, — a people 
 composed of a few forlorn families of the Chipewyans. 
 
 From the district above described, a belt of low primitive 
 rocks extends to the northern shores of Lake Superior. 
 Dr. Richardson calculates its width at about 200 miles; 
 and he states that, as it becomes more southerly, it recedes 
 from the Rocky Mountains, and differs from the Barren 
 Grounds in being well wooded. It is bounded to the east- 
 ward by a narrow strip of limestone, beyond which there is 
 a flat, swampy, and partly alluvial district, forming the 
 western shores of Hudson's Bay. This tract, from the 
 western border of the low primitive tract just mentioned to 
 the coast of Hudson's Bay, has been named the Eastern 
 District^ and presents us with seversil animals unknown to 
 the higher latitudes. 
 
 The Eastern District is bounded to the westward by a 
 flat limestone deposite ; and a remarkable chain of lakes 
 and rivers, such as the Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg, 
 Beaver Lake, and the central portion of Churchill or Missin- 
 nippi, all of which lie to the southward of the Methye Port- 
 age, marks the line of junction of the two formations. 
 This district, which Dr. Richardson has named the Lime' 
 stone Tract, is well wooded, and produces the fur-bearing 
 animals in great abundance. The white or polar bear, the 
 arctic fox, the Hudson's Bay lemming, and several other 
 species disappear, while their places are filled up by bisons, 
 bats, and squirrels, unknown to the other regions. 
 
 Intermediate between the limestone tract and the foot of 
 the Rocky Mountains, there occurs a wide expanse of 
 what is called in America prairie land. So slight are the 
 inequalities of its surface, that the traveller, while crossing 
 it, is obliged to regulate his course either by the compass 
 or the observation of the heavenly bodies. The soil is tole- 
 rably fertile, though for the greater proportion dry and 
 rather sandy. It supports, however, a thick grassy sward, 
 which yields an abundant pasture to innumerable herds of 
 
 ! , 
 
 ,||* 
 

 ^"^ 
 
 228 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 */»'. 
 
 i > 
 
 M 
 
 bison, and many species of deer ; and the grizzly bear, the 
 fiercest and most powerful of all the North American land- 
 animals, properly so called, inhabits various portions of 
 this wide-spread plain. Prairies of a similar aspect, and 
 still greater extent, are known to border the Arkansa and 
 Missouri rivers. They are said to become gradually nar- 
 rower to the northward, and in the southern portion of the 
 fur^countries they extend for about fifteen degrees of longi- 
 tude, from Maneetobaw, or Maneetowoopoo, and Winipe- 
 goos Lakes, to the base of the Rocky Mountains. These 
 magnificent plains are partially intersected by ridges of low 
 hills, and also by several streams, of which the banks are 
 wooded ; and towards the skirts of the plains many de- 
 tached masses of finely-formed timber, and pieces of still 
 water, are disposed in so pleasing and picturesque a man- 
 ner, as to convey the idea rather of a cultivated English 
 park than of an American wilderness. There is, however^ 
 so great a deficiency of wood in the central parts of these 
 plains, that " the hunters," says Dr. Richardson, " are under 
 the necessity of taking fuel with them on their journeys, or in 
 dry weather of making their fires of the dung of the bison. 
 To the northward of the Saskatchawan, the country i» 
 more broken, and intersected by woody hills ; and on the 
 banks of the Peace River the plains are of comparatively 
 small extent, and are detached from each other by woody 
 tracts : they terminate altogether in the angle between the 
 River of the Mountains and Great Slave Lake. The 
 abundance of pasture renders these plains the favourite 
 resorl of various ruminating animals."^ 
 
 The preceding summary bring« us to the base of that 
 vast and continuous chain already so often mentioned under 
 the name of the Rocky Mountains. It is inhabited by many 
 singular animals, some of which do not occur among the 
 lower grounds on either side of the range. We have already 
 stated our opinion regarding the character and physical 
 influence of this extended group, and as we shall ere long 
 describe the most remarkable of its zoological productions, 
 we shall in the mean time request the reader to descend 
 with us towards the western or Pacific shores. There we 
 
 * Fauna Boreali- Americana, vol. i., Introduction, p. xxix. 
 
 '-^ 
 
 i'. '■ 
 
INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 229 
 
 r bear, the 
 rican land- 
 ortiona of 
 Bpect, and 
 ■kansa and 
 lually nar- 
 tion of the 
 IS of longi- 
 id Winipe- 
 18. These 
 3ges of low 
 I banks are 
 
 many de- 
 jces of still 
 que a man- 
 ed English 
 IS, howevery 
 its of these 
 
 " are under 
 irneys, or in 
 if the bison. 
 
 country i» 
 and on the 
 imparatively 
 )T by woody 
 between the 
 
 ,ake. The 
 
 le favourite 
 
 Ibase of that 
 
 ioned under 
 
 [ted by many 
 
 among the 
 
 Liave already 
 
 ind physical 
 
 lall ere long 
 
 [productions, 
 
 to descend 
 
 There we 
 
 ). xxix. 
 
 find sevorai interesting tracts of country, with the natural 
 history of which we are, liowcver, more imperfectly ac- 
 quainted than we should desire. 
 
 The countries between the Rocky Mountains and the 
 Pacific are in general of a more hilly nature than those 
 already described to the eastward ; but the upper branches 
 of the Columbia are skirted by extensive plains, which 
 present the same general character as those of the Missouri 
 and Saskatchawan. New-Caledonia extends from north to 
 south about 500 miles, and from east to west about 350 or 
 400. Its central post at Stewart's Lake is placed in north 
 latitude 54^, and west longitude 125 degrees. According to 
 Mr. Harmon, it contains so many lakes that about one-sixth 
 of its entire surface is under water. The weather here is 
 much milder than on the eastern side of the mountains, — an 
 amelioration which is no doubt owing to the comparatively 
 narrow extent of land which intervenes between the moun- 
 tains and the sea.* However, for a few days during the 
 depth of winter it must be " pretty considerably" cold, as 
 the thermometer is said i.» descend for a time to about thirty- 
 two degrees below zero of Fahrenheit. Snow generally falls 
 about the 15th of November, and disappears by the 15th of 
 May ;t from which the winter may be fairly inferred to 
 be of shorter duration by about one-third than it is in 
 some places situated under the same latitude on the other 
 side. 
 
 The only remaining district of North America to which 
 we need here allude, as falling within the scope of the 
 present volume, is that forlorn region in the north-west cor- 
 ner of the continent, which forms the terminating portion 
 of the vast Russian dominions. Its shores have been coasted 
 by Cook, Kotzebue, and Beechey ; but of its iriterior nature 
 and productions we are more sparingly informed. Dr. 
 Richardson, indeed, reports, from information given by the 
 few Indians of Mackenzie's River who have ever crossed 
 the range of the Rocky Mountains in that northern quarter, 
 that on their western side there is a tract of barren ground 
 frequented by rein-deer and musk-oxen ; and it may also be 
 
 * Edinburgh Review, No. 106, p. 355. 
 
 t .Tournal of Voyages and Travels in the I tenor of North America, 
 between the forty-seventh and fifty-eighth degrees rf latitude, by Daniel 
 William Harmon, a partner in the North-west Company. Andover, 1820. 
 
 u 
 
 I . ( 
 
 t I 
 
 ■il ill 
 
 
 
 
230 
 
 NATURAL inSTORV. 
 
 inferred, from the quantity of furs procured by the Rusaian 
 company, that woody regions, similar to such as exist to 
 the eastward of the niountuins, also occur in this north-west 
 corner of America. 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Quadrupeds of the Northern Regions of America* 
 
 Inaccuracies of some Historical Writers— No Monkeys in North America 
 —Bats— Slirewmice— Genus Scalops, or 8h re winoie— Other Moles of 
 America— Tlie Star-nose— Various Bears— Different digitated Quadru- 
 peds—The Canada Ottf-r— The Sea-otter— The Dogs and Wolves of 
 America— The Foxes— The Beaver— The Musk-rat— Meadow Mice and 
 Lemmings— The Rocky Mountain Neotoma— The American Field- 
 mouse—The Marmots— The Squirrel Tribe — The Canada Porcupine — 
 The American Hare— The Polar Hare— The Prairie Hare— The Little 
 Chief Hare- Genus Cervus— The Elk, or Moose-deer — The Rein-deer 
 — The Woodland Caribou — The Rocky Mountain Sheep— The Rocky 
 Mountain Goat — The Bison, or American Buffalo— Tlie Musk-ox. 
 
 Having in the preceding chapter exhibited a general sketch 
 of some of the prevailing features in the physical geography 
 of the northern countries of Aiiierica, we shall now proceed 
 to a more detailed and systematic account of their natural 
 history. But, in the first place, we may notice a slight in- 
 accuracy which prevails in regard to the comparative size 
 of the ferine inhabitants of the Old and New World. 
 " Nature," says Dr. Robertson,* " was not only less prolific 
 in the New World, but she appears likewise to have been 
 less vigorous in her productions. The animals originally 
 belonging to this quarter of the globe appear to be of an 
 inferior race, neither so robust nor so fierce as those of the 
 other continent. America gives birth to no creature of such 
 bulk as to be compared with the elephant or rhinoceros, or 
 that equals the lion and tiger in strength and ferocity. The 
 tapir of Brazil, the largest quadruped of the ravenous tribe 
 in the New World, is not larger than a calf of six months 
 old. The puma and jaguar, the fiercest beasts of prey, 
 
 * In his History of America. 
 
 
 jlf 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 231 
 
 le Russian 
 as exist to 
 north-west 
 
 America* 
 
 North America 
 Other Moles of 
 eitated Quadru- 
 and Wolves of 
 eadow Mice and 
 rnerican Field- 
 ada Porcupine— 
 [are— The Little 
 —The Rein-deer 
 lep— The Rocky 
 e Musk-ox. 
 
 jeneral sketch 
 bal geography 
 ' now proceed 
 their natural 
 ce a slight in- 
 nparative size 
 :^ew World, 
 y less prolific 
 to have been 
 lals originally 
 ir to be of an 
 .s those of the 
 eature of such 
 rhinoceros, or 
 'erocity. The 
 ravenous tribe 
 of six months 
 jasts of prey» 
 
 which Europeans have inaccurately denominated lions and 
 tigers, possess neither the undaunted courage of the former, 
 nor the ravenous cruelty of the latter. * They are inactive 
 and timid, hardly formidable to man, and often turn their 
 backs upon the least appearance of resistance, t The same 
 qualities in the climate of America which stinted the growth 
 and enfeebled the spirit of its native animals have proved 
 pernicious to such as have migrated into it voluntarily from 
 the other continent, or have been transported thither by the 
 Europeans.! The bears, the wolves, the deer of America, 
 are not equal in size to those of the Old WorM."<^ Now 
 this idea that the quadrupeds of the New World ire smaller 
 than those of the Old is correct only in relation to the 
 southern regions of each. The elephant and rhinoceros 
 of India are of much more vast dimensions than the tapir 
 and lama of South America ; but " the bears, wolves, and 
 deer" of North America are much larger than those of 
 Europe, and the reptiles of that same quarter of the globe 
 are infinitely larger than any which occur in corresponding 
 latitudes of the ancient continent. Even in regard to the 
 feline tribes which the great Scotch historian considered as 
 so inferior in the New World, perhaps there is less disparity 
 than is usually supposed. BufTon's observations on the 
 " cowardly tigers" of the new continent are known to be 
 applicable to the small species called the ocelot ; and it is 
 ascertained that the real jaguar of the Orinoco sometimes 
 leaps into the water and seizes the Indians in their canoes, 
 — a practice not entirely consistent with the idea of its fear- 
 ing the face of man. Let us peruse the following pas- 
 sages from the writings of Humboldt : — " The night was 
 gloomy ; the Devil's Wall and its denticulated rocks ap- 
 peared from time to time at a distance, illumined by the 
 burning of the savannas, or wrapped in ruddy smoke. At 
 the spot where the bushes were the thickest, our horses 
 were frightened by the yell of an animal that seemed to fol- 
 
 Margravii Hist. Nat. Brazil, 
 34. Pisonis, Hist. p. 6. 
 
 * Buffon, Hist. Nat. torn. ix. p. 87. 
 p. 229. 
 
 t Ibid. ix. 13, 203. Acosta, Hist. lib. iv. c. 
 Herrera, dec. 4, lib. iv. c. 1. lib. x. c. 13. 
 
 X Churchill, v. p. 6tfl. Ovalle, Relat. of Chili. Churchill, iii. p. 10. 
 Sommario de Oviedo, c. 14-22. Voyage du Des Marchais, iii. 299. 
 
 ^ Buflbn, Hist. Nat. ix. 103. Kalm'a Travels, i. 103. Biet. Voy. de 
 France Equinox, p. 339. 
 
 \ '^l 
 
g<*" 
 
 232 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 U 
 
 low us closely. It was a large jaguar that had roamed for 
 three years among these mountains. He had constantly 
 escaped the pursuit of the boldest hunters, and had carried 
 ofT horses and mules from the midst of enclosures ; but, 
 having no want of food, had not yet attacked men. The 
 negro who conducted us uttered wild cries. He thought 
 he should frighten the jaguar ; but these means were of 
 course without effect. The jaguar, like the wolf of Europe, 
 follows travellers even when he will not attack them ; the 
 wolf in the open fields and unsheltered places, the jaguar 
 skirting the road, and appearing only at intervals between the 
 bushes."* The same illustrious observer also remarks, — 
 " Near the Joval, nature assumes an awful and savage as- 
 pect. We there saw the largest jaguar we had ever met 
 with. The natives themselves were astonished at its pro- 
 digious length, which surpassed that of all the tigers of 
 India I had seen in the collections of Europe."t 
 
 The first fact to which we shall here allude is one of a 
 negative character, viz. the entire absence of the monkey 
 tribe, commonly called the Quadrumanous ordery from the 
 countries of our present disquisition. The climate is too 
 rigorous and variable for that ** pigmy people." 
 
 Of the next order, the Cheiroptera or bats, there are 
 several North American species, of which we shall here 
 name only the Vesper tilio subulatus of Say, a small-bodied 
 species, common near the eastern base of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, on the upper branches of the Peace River and 
 Saskatchawan. 
 
 The slender and delicately-formed tribe of shrewmice are 
 well known in America. Forster's shrew (Sorex Forsterif 
 Rich.) is widely spread over the whole of the fur-countries 
 as far as the sixty-seventh degree of north latitude ; and 
 wherever the snow is sufficiently firm to retain the impres- 
 sion, its little footmarks are seen throughout the dreary winter. 
 Dr. Richardson often traced its paths to the top of a stalk of 
 grass, by which it appeared to desi end from the surface of 
 the deep snow ; but he always sought in vain for its habita- 
 tion beneath. This is the smallest quadruped with which 
 the Indians are acquainted, and they carefully preserve its 
 
 • Personal Narrative, vol. iv. p. 176. 
 
 t Ibid. p. 427. 
 
•w 
 
 "IK^ 
 
 QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 233 
 
 amed for 
 onstantly 
 id carried 
 res ; but, 
 en. The 
 e thought 
 s were of 
 if Europe, 
 hem ; the 
 he jaguar 
 'tween the 
 emarks,— 
 savage as- 
 1 ever met 
 at its pro- 
 tigers of 
 
 is one of a 
 le monkey 
 , from the 
 nate is too 
 
 there are 
 shall here 
 nail-bodied 
 cky Moun- 
 River and 
 
 jwmice are 
 '.X Forsteri, 
 r-countries 
 Ltude ; and 
 ;he impres- 
 ary winter, 
 f a stalk of 
 surface of 
 ' its habita- 
 with which 
 )reserve its 
 
 ). 427. 
 
 ■I 
 
 'J 
 
 ekin in their conjuring bags. It has been a source of won- 
 der and admiration how the vital power should preserve its 
 delicate limbs from freezing in a country where the winter 
 temperature sinks to fifty degrees below zero. Of this 
 species the tail is of a square form, and of the same length 
 with the head and body, which together measure rather 
 more than a couple of inches. The ears are short and 
 furry, the back is of a clove-brown colour, and the under 
 parts are pale yellowish brown. 
 
 A singular animal (classed under the genus Scalops of 
 Cuvier) is known to the American naturalists by the name 
 of shrewraole. It has a thick cylindrical body, resembling 
 that of the common mole, without any distinct neck. Its 
 limbs are very short, and appear remarkably so in conse- 
 quence of their being enveloped in the skin of the body as 
 far as the wrists and ankle-joints. The snout is linear and 
 moveable, and projects above the third of an inch beyond 
 the incisive teeth. The eyes are concealed by the fur, and 
 are so exceedingly small, according to Dr. Godman, that the 
 aperture of the skin is just large enough to admit the entrance 
 of an ordinary-sized human hair. The paws closely resemble 
 those of the European mole, and the fur has the same rich 
 velvety appearance. It is of a brownish-black colour, with 
 a slight chestnut tinge upon the forehead, and somewhat 
 paler on the throat. 
 
 Considerable confusion exists in the history of the Ame- 
 rican moles, and it is still a matter of doubt whether any 
 true mole (of the genus Talpa) inhabits the New World. 
 " Before the sun rose," says Sir Alexander Mackenzie, 
 " our guides summoned us to proceed, when we descended 
 into a beautiful valley, watered by a small river. At eight 
 we came to the termination of it, when we saw a great 
 number of moles."* Now, in this country, though mole- 
 hills are abundant, it seldom happens that we see of the 
 creatures themselves more than one at a time, and even 
 that but rarely. From this it may perhaps be inferred that 
 the species are distinct. However, the one which we have 
 described above is frequent on the banks of the Columbia 
 and the neighbouring coasts of the Pacific. According to 
 Lewis and Clarke, " it differs in no respect from the species 
 
 * Voyages from Montreal, on the river St. Lawrence, through the 
 Continent of North America, to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, p. 314. 
 
 U2 
 
 
 tMH 
 
 ' 
 
 '•JIj! 
 
 i 
 
 Il 
 
 
 H 
 
 y 
 
 III 
 
234 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 80 common in the United States."* The northern range 
 of the shrewmole is still unknown. It is supposed not 
 to advance beyond the fiftieth degree of latitude, because 
 its favourite food consists of earth-worms, which are un- 
 known in the countries of Hudson's Bay, although it may 
 probably reach a somewhat higher latitude along the milder 
 Pacific shores. Its general habits resemble those of our 
 own kind. It is a subterranean dweller, excavates gal- 
 leries, throws up mounds, and feeds on insects. This spe- 
 cies is said to have the singular custom of coming to the 
 surface exactly at noon, A domesticated individual kept 
 by Mr. Titian Peale was lively, playful, and familiar ; it 
 would follow the hand of its feeder by the scent, and then, 
 after burrowing for a short distance in the loose earth, and 
 making a small circuit, would return again for a supply of 
 food. It fed on fresh meat, either cooked or raw, and was 
 observed to drink freely, t 
 
 Another singu!ar subterranean species is the long-tailed 
 mole of Pennant (Condylura longicaudata, Harlan). The 
 length of this animal, exclusive of the tail, is nearly five 
 inches. It is covered with a brownish-black velvety coat 
 of fur, and the extremity of its snout is furnished with h 
 cartilaginous fringe of eighteen rays, with two short bifid 
 ones beneath the nostrils. It is from these appendages 
 that it has obtained the name of star-nose. Specimens 
 were transmitted to the Zoological Society from Moose 
 Factory, Hudson's Bay. It is called naspass-kasic by the 
 Salteur Indians. 
 
 We come now to the group of bears (genus Ursus\ 
 which includes the largest and most powerful of the Ame- 
 rican beasts of prey. It is natural to suppose that animals 
 of almost gigantic size, of great strength, and ferocious 
 habits would be too formidable and dangerous to the hu- 
 man race to remain unknown in any of their distinguish- 
 ing characteristics. Yet the specific differences of the 
 black and brown bears of Europe and America are still 
 insufficiently illustrated. Both continents produce a black 
 bear and a brown one, — the white or polar bear is com- 
 
 * Travels to the Source of the Missouri River, vol. iii. p. 42. 
 
 t AXnerioan Natural History, by John D. Godman, M.D., vol. i. p. 84. 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 235 
 
 Bm range 
 (osed not 
 I, because 
 h are un- 
 gh it may 
 the niilder 
 ose of our 
 vates gal- 
 This spe- 
 ng to the 
 idual kept 
 imiliar; it 
 , and then, 
 earth, and 
 i supply of 
 Ny and was 
 
 long-tailed 
 ■Ian). The 
 
 nearly five 
 velvety coat 
 shed with a 
 ) short bifid 
 appendages 
 
 Specimens 
 rom Moose 
 •ask by the 
 
 lus Ursus)^ 
 
 )f the Ame- 
 lat animals 
 
 ,d ferocious 
 to the hu- 
 
 Idistinguish- 
 ices of the 
 ica are still 
 luce a black 
 lear is com- 
 
 J 42. 
 
 I,' vol. I. p. 84. 
 
 mon to the northern latitudes of each, while America alone 
 is inhabited by the grizzly bear, Ursus ferox. 
 
 The black bear of the New World ( Ursus Americanus) 
 has a more arched forehead than the analogous species 
 of Europe. Its nose is continued on the same line with 
 the forehead, and is also somewhat arched, which produces 
 one of its most striking physiognomical characters. Its 
 ears are high, oval, rounded at the tips, and are placed wide 
 apart from each other. Its fur is long, straight, black, and 
 shining, with the exception of a large pale yellowish-brown 
 spot on each side of the muzzle. The bare extremity of 
 the nose is more obliquely truncated than that of the brown 
 bear, and the palms and soles of the feet are comparatively 
 shorter than in that species. This is the least of the 
 American bears, and seldom exceeds five feet in length. 
 Its disposition is also milder, and its diet consists of a 
 greater proportion o*" vegetable substances. It feeds on 
 various kinds of root-* a ' wild berries, as well as on insects, 
 eggs, birds, quadrup' ind fish. In short, it may be 
 
 said to be omnivoroui-, .i^e the rest of its congeners, with 
 this difference, that when it happens to be amply supplied 
 with a favourite vegetable food, it will pass the carcass of a 
 deer or other quadruped untouched. It may be character- 
 ized as rather a timid animal, and seldom ventures to face 
 a human foe, unless when hemmed into a corner, or im- 
 boldened by the strength of parental affection. Its speed 
 is generally said not to be very great ; but Dr. Richardson 
 states that he has seen a black bear make off with a rapidity 
 that would have baffled the fleetest runner, and ascend a 
 nearly perpendicular cliff with a facility " that a cat might 
 envy." 
 
 This species, when resident in the fur-countries, sleeps 
 throughout the winter, generally under a fallen tree, after 
 having scraped away a portion of the soil. The first 
 heavy fall of snow covers it up, and secures it from an 
 undue intensity of cold. In regard to distribution, it is 
 widely spread over all the wooded districts of America, from 
 Carolina to *he Arctic Sea, and across the whole of the con- 
 tinent from east to west. It is, however, less abundant near 
 the seacoasts than in the interior countriep. " The skin of 
 a black bear, with the fur in prime order, and the claws 
 appended, was at one period worth from twenty to forty 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 I i 
 
 i 1 
 
 f 
 
 >l 
 
236 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 guineas, and even more ; but at present the demand for 
 them is so small, from their being little used either for muffs 
 or hammercloths, that the best, I believe, sell for less than 
 forty shillings."* 
 
 As both the black and grizzly bears vary greatly in the 
 colour of their coats, according to age and season, the sup- 
 posed brown bear of America is alleged by some to have 
 arisen from one or other of these variations. From inquiries 
 made by Dr. Richardson throughout an extent of ten de- 
 grees of latitude, from Lake Superior to Great Slave Lake, 
 fie could not ascertain that the natives of these districts were 
 acquainted with more than two species of land bear, viz. the 
 one above described, and the grizzly species. He found, 
 however, that the barren lands which lie to the north and 
 east of Great Slave Lake, and stretch thence to the Polar 
 Sea, are frequented by a bear which differs from those 
 species, and presents a nearer affinity to the brown bear of the 
 Scandinavian peninsula. Its general colour is dusky (some- 
 times yellowish) brown, and the shoulders and flanks are 
 frequently covered during the summer season with long 
 pale-tipped hairs. This is no doubt the grizzly bear of 
 Hearne, though quite distinct from the kind now more 
 familiarly khown under that appellation. The Indians 
 greatly dread the Barren Ground bear, and avoid burning 
 bones. Lest the smell should attract so unwelcome a visiter. 
 It is narrated, that as Keskarrah, an old Indian, was one 
 day seated at the door of his tent near Fort Enterprise, a 
 large bear suddenly made its appearance on the opposite 
 bank of a small stream, and remained stationary for some 
 time, curiously eying the old gentleman, and apparently 
 deliberating whether to eat him up at that moment or wait 
 till supper-time. Keskarrah, thinking himself in great 
 jeopardy, and having no one to assist him but a wife as old 
 as himself, immediately gave utterance to the following 
 oration : — " Oh, bear ! 1 never did you any harm ; I have 
 always had the highest respect for you and your relations, 
 and never killed any of them except through necessity : go 
 away, good bear, and let me alone, and I promise not to mo- 
 lest you." Bruin instantly took his departure; and the 
 oratofi never doubting that he owed his safety to his elo- 
 
 ■'^ *■■■ 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i. p. 20. 
 
"'ri^- 
 
 manJ for 
 
 r for mufft 
 
 less than 
 
 tly in the 
 1, the sup- 
 le to have 
 m inquiries 
 of ten de- 
 Jlave Lake, 
 stricts were 
 ear, viz. the 
 He found, 
 e north and 
 othe Polar 
 from those 
 n bear of the 
 lusky (some- 
 1 flanks are 
 ti with long 
 Ezly bear of 
 I now more 
 The Indians 
 void burning 
 Ime a visiter. 
 [ian,was one 
 Enterprise, a 
 the opposite 
 ary for some 
 1(1 apparently 
 [lent or wait 
 ;elf in great 
 a wife as old 
 he following 
 larm; l^'d^Q 
 >ur relations, 
 lecessity : go 
 Lse not to mo- 
 are; and the 
 ,y to his elo- 
 
 /■ 
 
 
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 # 
 
 II 
 
 .^ -y. 
 
':' (1 
 
 *;. K 
 
zt 
 
 w 
 
 QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 239 
 
 quence, on his arrival at the fort frequently favoured the 
 company with his speech at full length. In the stomach of 
 one of these animals which Dr. Richardrwn dissected, he 
 found the remains of a seal, a marmot, a large quantity of 
 the long sweet roots of some Astragali and Hcdysarat with 
 some wild berries and a little grass. 
 
 The third American species of this genus which we re- 
 quire to notice is the true grizzly bear, or Ursus ferox. He 
 does not present a very amiable i "^ ec( 
 
 This is the most formidable ani»-.al of i North Ameri- 
 can continent. When full grown it equals the size of the 
 larger polar bears, and is not only more active, but of a 
 fiercer and more vindictive disposition. Its strength is so 
 great that it will drag the carcass of a buffalo weighing a 
 thousand pounds. The following story of its prowess is 
 well authenticated : — A party of voyagers had been occupied 
 all day in tracking a canoe up the Saskatchawan, and had 
 seated themselves around a fire during the evening twilight. 
 They were engaged in the agreeable task of preparing their 
 supper, when a huge grizzly bear sprang aver the canoe, 
 which they had tilted behind them, and seizing one of the 
 party by the shoulder, carried him off. The remainder fled 
 in terror, with the soleexccj)tion of ame/t/, named Bourasso, 
 who, grasping his gun, followed the bear as it was deliber- 
 ately retreating with the man in its month. He called out 
 to his unfortunate comrade that li as afraid of hitting 
 him if he fired at the bear ; but the hitter entreated him to 
 fire instantly, because the animal ivas squeezing him to 
 death. On this he took a steady aim, and lodged his ball in 
 the body of the brute, which immediately dropped its original 
 prey, that it might revenge itself upon Bourasso. He how- 
 ever escaped, though with difficulty, and the monster soon 
 after retreated into a thicket, where it was supposed to have 
 died. But fear prevailed over every other feeling, and no 
 one thought it necessary too curiously to inquire. The 
 rescued man was found to have had his ann fractured, and 
 to have been otherwise severely bitten ; however, he after- 
 ward recovered. We are informed by Dr. Richardson, 
 that a man is now living in the vicinity of Edmonton House 
 who was attacked by a grizzly bear, which suddenly sprang 
 out of a thicket and scalped him by a single scratch of its 
 tremendous claws, laying bare the scull, and pulling down 
 
 ,1 
 
 i 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 M I 
 
 \ m 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 
 
 V 
 
 fl 
 
 w 
 
 v4 
 
 il 
 
 m 
 
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 240 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 
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 the skin of the forehead quite over the eyes. Assistance 
 being at hand, the bear was driven off witn Jut effecting 
 further injury ; but the individual attacked was left in a 
 most unfortunate and painful predicament, for the scalp not 
 being properly replaced in time, he lost his sight (although 
 his eyes remained uninjured), owing to the fixing and harden- 
 ing of that skinny veil. 
 
 Mr. Drummond, whose botanical trip to the Rocky Moun- 
 tains we have already narrated, frequently met with these 
 disagreeable companions. When he happened unintention- 
 ally to come suddenly upon them, they would rear them- 
 selves upright on their hind-legs, and utter a loud, harsh, 
 and rapid breathing. From what is known of the habits of 
 these animals, it is certain that, had he lost his presence of 
 mind and attempted to flee, he would have been pursued, 
 overtaken, and torn to pieces. But the bold Forfar-man 
 stood his ground to an inch, and beating a huge botanical 
 box, made of tin, his discordant music so astounded the 
 grizzly monsters, that, after eying the Scottish Orpheus 
 for a few minutes, they generally wheeled to the right about 
 and galloped away. He was, however, once attacked by a 
 female who was attended by her cubs. On this occasion 
 his gun unfortunately missed fire ; but he ept her at bay 
 with the butt-end till some gentlemen of i. Hudson's Bay 
 Company, with whom he was at that time travelling, came 
 up to his assistance, and they succeeded in driving her off. 
 On another occasion he observed a male caressing a female, 
 and soon after the loving couple came towards him, but 
 whether by accident or design he was uncertain. However, 
 he thought there was no great harm in climbing a tree, and 
 as the female drew near, he very ungallantly fired at and 
 mortally wounded her. As usual in such cases, she uttered 
 some loud screams, which threw the male into a most furious 
 rage, and he reared himself up against the trunk of the tree 
 on which Mr. Drummond was perched, no doubt wishing 
 himself, if not, like the Scotch baronet's bird, in two places 
 at one time, at any rate in some other quarter of the world 
 than that which he then occupied. However, it is fortu- 
 nately so ordained that grizzly bears either won't or can't 
 climb, and the female in the mean while having retired to 
 a short distance, lay down, and the male proceeding to 
 condole with her, Mr. Drummond shot him too. All 
 
 ^1^ 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 241 
 
 things considered, this was probably his most prudent 
 course. 
 
 The geographical distribution of this species is extensive. 
 According to Lieutenant Pike, it extends southward as 
 far as Mexico,* and it is known to inhabit the Rocky 
 Mountains and their eastern plains, at least as far as the 
 sixty-first degree of north latitude, and in the last-named 
 districts it occurs most frequently in such woody regions as 
 are interspersed with open prairies and grassy hills.f 
 
 Although unwilling to detain our readers much longer in 
 such uncouth company, we cannot close our account of 
 American bears without a short record of the white or 
 polar species, — the Ursus maritimus of naturalists. This 
 great prowler of the arctic snows attains to a higher lati- 
 tude than any other known quadruped, an(^. dwells indeed 
 by preference 
 
 ** In thrilling regions of thick-ribbed ice.*' 
 
 Its southern limit appears to be somewhere about the fifty- 
 fiflh parallel. It is well known at York Factory, on the 
 southern shore of Hudson's Bay, more especially during the 
 autumn season, to which it is liable to be drifted during 
 summer from the northward on the ice. It is a truly ice- 
 haunting and maritime species, and occurs along a vast ex- 
 tent of shore over the arctic regions, never entering into 
 wooded countries except by accident during the prevalence 
 of great mists, nor showing itself at more than a hundred 
 miles' distance from the sea. Indeed it rarely travels in- 
 land more than a few miles, because it is a strong and per- 
 severing swimmer, and probably feels conscious that when 
 removed from its accustomed element it loses the advantage 
 of its own peculiar and most powerful locomotive energies. 
 The polar benr is well known in Greenland, Spitzbergen, 
 
 * Travels on the Missoari and Arkansaw, edited by Mr. Rees. 
 I.OMdon, 1811. 
 
 t The specimen in the Edinburgh Museunn (of which I have published 
 a coloured representation on the, twenty-first plate of the first volume of 
 Kiy " Illustrations of Zoology") was killed on the plains at Carlton House 
 in its second year. Its claws are black. In a mature condition these 
 weapnnn are white, and necklaces made of them are much prized by the 
 Inilian warriors as proofs of prowess. 
 
 X 
 
 ' ■ 
 
242 
 
 ^ATL'liAL lllSTOIir. 
 
 li 
 
 und Nova Zombla, and was met with by Captain Parry 
 among the North Georgian Islands. It serins, however, to 
 decrease in numbers to the westward of Melville Island. 
 In proof of this it may be mentioned that Dr. Richardson 
 met with none between the mouths of the Mackenzie and 
 Coppermine Rivers ; and the Esquimaux informed Captain 
 Franklin that white bears very rarely visited the coast to the 
 westward of the Mackenzie. Along the Asiatic shores, on 
 the other hand, they are not recorded as occurring to the 
 eastward of the Tgchukotzkoi Noss.* Neither were they 
 seen by Captain Beechey during his recent voyage to the 
 Icy Cape, although their skins appear to have been procured 
 among other peltry from the natives on the coast of Hotham^s 
 Inlet, Kotzebue's Sound.j It thus appears that this great 
 maritime species occurs very generally along all the frozen 
 shores within the arctic circle, with the exception of about 
 thirty-five degrees of longitude on either side of Point 
 Beechey, in which it is comparatively rare ; and that in 
 Hudson's Bay, and along the northern coast of Labrador, 
 and the nearer portions of East and West Greenland, it 
 occurs not unfrequently six or eight degrees to the south of 
 the arctic circle.^ 
 
 We deem it unnecessary to describe the external charac- 
 ters or appearance of this familiarly-known animal.^ 
 
 Passing over the racoon {Procyon lotor\ the American 
 badger {Meles Labradoria)y the wolverene {Gulo luscus)y the 
 common weasel (Mustcla vulgaris)^ the ermine or stoat 
 {M. erm,inea\ the vison-weasel {M. vison)y the pine martin 
 {M. martes), the pekan or fisher (M. Canadensis)^ and the 
 Hudson's Bay skunk (Miphilis Americana)^ we shall devote 
 a page to the history of the American otters. 
 
 * Arctic Zoology, vol. i. p. 62. 
 
 t Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Behring's Straits, to co- 
 operate with the Polar Expeditions. London, 1831. 
 
 t Edinburgh Reviews, No. 106, p. 344. 
 
 ^ One of the finest specimenn in Europe is preserved in the Edinburgli 
 College Mussnm. It was shot during one of Sir Edward Parry's expe- 
 ditions, and was transmitted to Professor Jameson by order of the Lords 
 of the Admiralty. For anecdotes illustrating the history and habits of 
 the polar bear, we beg to refer the reader to No. XIV. of the Family 
 Library, entitled " Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas and 
 Regions." 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 243 
 
 in Tarry 
 
 VCVCTi to 
 
 3 Island, 
 chardson 
 nzie and 
 I Captain 
 ,a8t to the 
 ihorc8» on 
 ng to the 
 were they 
 age to the 
 [1 procured 
 Hotham's 
 this great 
 the frozen 
 m of about 
 . of Point 
 nd that in 
 ■ Labrador, 
 reenland, it 
 he south of 
 
 rnal charac- 
 nal.^ 
 
 le American 
 luscus)i the 
 Ine or stoat 
 Ipine martin 
 iis\ and the 
 shall devote 
 
 Straits, to co- 
 
 I the Edinburgh 
 
 1 Parry's expe- 
 Lrof the Lords 
 f and habits of 
 I of the FamUy 
 lolar Seas and 
 
 The Canada otter (Lu<ra Canadensis of Sabine)* frequent! 
 the neighbourhood of falls and rapids during the winter 
 season ; and when its accustomed haunts are frozen up, it 
 will travel a great way over the snow in search of open 
 water. In its food and habits it bears a close resemblance to 
 the European species, but it may be distinguished by the 
 fur on the belly being of the same shining brown colour as 
 that on the back. It is also a much larger animal, and has 
 a proportionately shorter tail. 
 
 The sea-otter {Lutra marina) belongs to the subgenus 
 Enhydra of Dr. Fleming.t It exhibits the manners rather 
 of a seal than of a land animal. It resides chiefly in the 
 water ; and, according to Pennant, has been sometimes met 
 with more than a hundred leagues from shore. It is dis- 
 tinguished from the fresh-water species, among other char- 
 acters, by the larger dize and greater strength of its fore- 
 paws. The fur varies in beauty according to the age and 
 condition of the animal. Those in highest estimation have 
 the belly and throat interspersed with brilliant silver hairs, 
 while the other parts consist of a thick black coat, with a 
 silky gloss of extreme fineness. 
 
 We have now to notice the wolves and dogs of America. 
 The former may be called wild-dogs, and some of the latter 
 are little better than semi-domesticated wolves. We shall 
 not here enter into the question of the specific identity or dis- 
 tinction of the European and American species. The large 
 brown wolf, described by Lewis and Clarke as inhabiting not 
 only the Atlantic countries but the borders of the Pacific and 
 the mountains in the vicinity of the Columbia River, ap- 
 pears to form the closest approximation to the wolf of the 
 Scandinavian Alps and the Pyrenees. It is not found on the 
 Missouri to the westward of the Platte. Wolves were ex- 
 tremely numerous in some of the countries traversed by our 
 overland expeditions. They varied greatly in colour ; some 
 being pure white, others totally black, but the greater pro- 
 portion were characterized by a mixture of gray, white, and 
 brown. Dr. Richardson is of opinion that, however co- 
 loured, they possess certain characters in common in which 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Joumev, p. 653. 
 t Piiilosophy of Zoology, vol. ji, p. Vij, 
 
244 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 they differ from the European race. " On the Barren 
 Grounds, through which the Co)>perniine River flows, I had 
 more tiian once an opportunity of seeing a single wolf in 
 close pursuit of a rein>deer ; and I witnessed a chase on 
 Point Lake when covered with ice, which terminated in a 
 fine buck rein-deer being overtaken by a large white wolf, 
 and disabled by a bite in the flank. An Indian, who was 
 concealed on the borders of the lake, ran in and cut the 
 deer^s throat with his knife, the wolf at once relinquishing 
 his prey and sneaking off. In the chase the poor deer 
 urged its flight by great bounds, which for a time exceeded 
 the speed of the wolf; but it stopped so frequently to gaze 
 on its relentless enemy, that the latter, toiling on at a * long 
 gallop,' with its tongue lolling out of its mouth, gradually 
 came up. After each hasty look, the poor deer redoubled its 
 efforts to escape ; but, either exh.austcd by fatigue, or ener- 
 vated by fear, it became, just before it was overtaken, 
 scarcely able to keep its feet."* A wolf seldom fails to at- 
 tack, and can easily run down a fox, if it perceives it at any 
 considerable distance from its cover, and it bears it off in 
 its mouth without any apparent diminution of its speed, if 
 it be at that time perceived and pursued by the hunters. 
 Though cruel and bloodthirsty, and even at times bold in 
 search of food when severely pressed by famine, the wolf 
 is on the whole a timid and fearful animal. A handker- 
 chief tied to a tree, or a distended bladder dangling in the 
 air, is sufficient to keep a whole herd at a respectful distance. 
 However, during Dr. Richardson's residence at Cumberland 
 House, in 1820, a wolf which had been for some time 
 prowling about the fort, and was supposed to have been 
 driven off by a wound of a musket ball, returned after 
 nightfall and carried off a dog from among about iifly of his 
 companions, all of whom howled most lamentably, but 
 wanted courage to rescue their unfortunate comrade. In tlio 
 northern countries of America many wolves suffer dread- 
 fully from famine, and not unfrequently perish of hunger 
 during severe seasons. 
 
 The individual h^re flgured, from the flne specimen in the 
 Edinburgh Museum, was found lying dead on the snow 
 near Fort Franklin. It had been observed prowling about 
 
 * Fauna Boreal i- Americana, vol. i. p. 63. 
 
9 Barren 
 W8, 1 had 
 e wolf in 
 chase on 
 lated in a 
 hite wolf, 
 who was 
 d cut the 
 nquishing 
 poor deer 
 ) exceeded 
 ;ly to gaze 
 at a ' long 
 gradually 
 doubled its 
 ic, or ener- 
 overtaken, 
 fails to at- 
 C8 it at any 
 irs it off in 
 s speed, if 
 le hunters, 
 nes bold in 
 e, the wolf 
 V handker- 
 ing in the 
 ul distance, 
 umberland 
 some time 
 have been 
 urned after 
 fifty of his 
 ntably, but 
 ade. In the 
 luffer dread- 
 of hunger 
 
 jimen in the 
 \n the snow 
 rWng about 
 
 i I 
 
f:- 
 
 QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 247 
 
 the Indian huts in the vicinity of the fort a few days pre- 
 ceding ; and its extreme emaciation and the emptiness of 
 its interior showed clearly that it had died from hunger. 
 Captain Lyon describes the wolves of Melville Peninsula 
 as comparatively fearless. One afternoon a fine dog strayed 
 a short way ahead of its master, when five wolves made a 
 sudden and unexpected rush, and devoured it in so incredibly 
 short a time, that before Mr. Elder, who witnessed the 
 attack, could reach the scene of action, the dog had disap- 
 peared, with the exception of the lower part of a leg. They 
 frequently came alongside the frost-bound ship, and one 
 night broke into a snow-hut, and carried away a brace of 
 Esquimaux dogs, which appeared to have made a consider- 
 able resistance, as the ceiling was sprinkled with blood and 
 hair. The alarm was not given till the mortal strife had 
 terminated, and when they were fired at, one of the wolves 
 was observed to take up a dead dog in his mouth, and to 
 set off with it at an easy canter, although its weight was 
 supposed to be equal to his own.^ 
 
 The dusky wolf, described in Godman's Natural History, 
 is regarded as a distinct species by Mr. Say ;t and the black 
 variety is also considered by some authors as entitled to 
 specific separation. The not unfrequent occurrence of 
 black individuals in the litter of the gray and brown wolves 
 seems, however, rather to point out the probability of this 
 difference of colour being merely an accidental variation. 
 
 But the prairie wolf {Cards latrans) is undoubtedly a dis- 
 tinct and well-defined species. It hunts in packs, and is an 
 animal of great swiftness. It occurs on both sides of the 
 Rocky Mountains ; but is less numerous on the banks of the 
 Columbia than in the plains of the Missouri and Saskatcha- 
 wan. When the hunters on the banks of the latter river 
 discharge their muskets at any kind of game, great numbers 
 of the prairie wolf are sometimes seen to start from holes in 
 the earth, and keep a look-out with a view to secure the 
 offals of the slaughtered animal. With the exception of 
 the prong-horned antelope, there is probably no swifter 
 quadruped in America than the prairie wolf. 
 
 These fierce and unreclaimed animals conduct us natu- 
 vally to the domesticated tribes of the canine race, of which 
 
 * Lyon's Private Journal. 
 
 t Long's Bxpedttion to tbe Rocky Mountains. 
 
248 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 there are several remarkable varieties in the northern re- 
 gions of America. We can here afford space only for a few 
 lines regarding the Hare Indian or Mackenzie River dog 
 {Canis familiaris^ var. lagopos). The front figure of the 
 annexed cut represents his external aspect. 
 
 This domestic variety, as far as Dr. Richardson could 
 learn, Jippearcd to be cultivated only by the Hare Indians, 
 and other tribes frequenting the borders of the Great Slave 
 Lake, and the banks of the Mackenzie. It is too small and 
 slight to serve as a beast of draught or other burden, and is 
 consequently used solely in the chase. It is an animal of a 
 playful and affectionate disposition, easily conciliated by 
 kindness. It has a mild countenance, a demure expression, 
 a small head, slender muzzle, erect ears, and eyes somewhat 
 oblique. Its legs are rather slender, the feet broad and 
 hairy, the tail bushy, and for the most part curled over the 
 right hip. It may be characterized as bearing the same 
 near relation to the prairie wolf as the Esquimaux dog docs 
 to the great gray wolf of America. Indeed the whole of the 
 canine republic in these parts of America are of very wolfish 
 habits. For example, the larger dogs which our expedition 
 purchased at Fort Franklin for the purposes of draught 
 were in the habit of pursuing the Hare Indian dogs in order 
 to devour them ; but the latter, fortunately, far outstripped 
 the others in speed. A young puppy, which Dr. Richardson 
 purchased from the Hare Indians, became greatly attached 
 to him, and when about seven months old, ran on the snow, 
 by the side of his sledge, for 900 miles, without suffering 
 from fatigue. " During this march it frequently, of its own 
 accord, carried a small twig or one of my mittens for a mile 
 or two ; but although very gentle in manners, it showed 
 little aptitude in learning any of the arts which the New- 
 foundland dogs so speedily acquire of fetching and carrying 
 when ordered. This dog was killed and eaten by an Indian 
 on the Saskatchawan, who pretended that he mistook it for 
 a fox." 
 
 The flesh of dogs is muc^' esteemed by the Canadian 
 voyagers, and by several of the Indian tribes. The Chipe- 
 wyans, however, who deem themselves descended from a 
 dog, hold the practice of using it as an article of food in 
 great abhorrence. 
 
I -I 
 
 m >i 
 
 M 
 
 > 
 
 il i 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 nnl 
 
 •'IjB 
 
 1 Vii 
 
 '* ifK 
 
 'tfjl 
 
 ill 
 
."^ 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 251 
 
 There are many spceies of fox in North America. The 
 American red fox {Canis futvus) inhabits the woody dis- 
 tricts of the fur-countries, and from thence about 8000 of 
 the skins are annually imported into England. Pennant, 
 and many other authors of last century, regarded the 
 species as identical with the common European kind ; from 
 which, however, it was shown by M. Palisot -e Bcduvois to 
 be quite distinct. The American species is distinguished 
 by its longer and finer fur, and more brilliant colouring. 
 Its cheeks are rounder ; its nose thicker, shorter, and more 
 truncated ; its eyes are nearer to each other, and its feet 
 are in general much more woolly beneath. The red fox has 
 a finer brush, and is altogether a larger animal than the 
 European ; yet it does not possess the continuous speed of 
 the latter ; it seems to exhaust its strength almost at the 
 first burst, and is then overtaken without much difficulty, 
 either by a mounted huntsman or a wolf. The cross fox 
 (C. decussatus) and the black or silver fox (C argenlatus) 
 are considered by some as distinct species, while others, 
 probably with greater correctness, view them in the light of 
 local or accidental varieties. Besides these, we may name 
 as American species, the kit-fox (C. cinereo-argentatus)^ 
 and the arctic fox, commonly so called (C. lagopus). The 
 latter occurs also in the Old World. 
 
 Several kinds of lynx inhabit North America ; but we 
 shall not here enter on their history. 
 
 ^e cannot, however, so slightly pass the beaver of these? 
 northern regions ( Castor fiber, Americanus\ one of the most 
 valuable and noted of quadrupeds. Its description is con- 
 tained in almost every book of natural history ; and we shall 
 therefore confine ourselves in this place to such particulars 
 as illustrate its general habits. As the history of this ani- 
 mal given by Hearne has been characterized by competent 
 authority a the most accurate which has yet been presented 
 to the public, we shall here abridge it for the benefit of our 
 readers. 
 
 As the beaver not only furnishes an excellent food, but is 
 highly valuable for the sake of its skin, it naturally attracted 
 the particular attention of the last-named traveller. The 
 situation of beaver-houses was found to be various. When 
 tLe animals are numerous they inhabit lakes, ponds, and 
 
 "jm. 
 
252 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 } ■ 
 
 rivers, as well as those narrow creeks which connect the 
 lakes together. Generally, however, they prefer flowing 
 waters, probably on account of the advantages presented by 
 the current in transporting the materials of their dwellings. 
 They also prefer deepish water, no doubt because it afTords 
 a better protection from the frost. It is when they build in 
 small creeks or rivers, the waters of which are liable to dry 
 or be drained off, that they manifest that beautiful instinct 
 with which Providence has gifted them — the formation of 
 dams. These diflcr in shape according to their particular 
 localities. When the water has little motion the dam is 
 almost straight ; when the current is considerable it is 
 curved, with its convexity towards the stream. The mate- 
 rials made use of are drift-wood, green willows, birch, and 
 poplars ; also mud and stones intermixed in such a manner 
 as must evidently contribute to the strength of the dam ; 
 but there is no particular method observed, except that the 
 work is carried on with a regular sweep, and all the parts 
 are made of equal strength. " In places which have been 
 long frequented by beavers undisturbed, their dams, by fre- 
 quent repairing, become a solid bank, capable of resisting a 
 great force both of ice and water ; and as the willow, pop- 
 lar, and birch generally take root and shoot up, they by 
 degrees form a kind of regular planted In^dge, which I have 
 seen in some places so tall that birds have built their nests 
 among the branches."* 
 
 The beaver-houses are built of the same materials as the 
 dams ; and seldom contain more than four old and six or 
 eight young ones. There is little order or regularity in 
 their structure. It frequently happens that some of the 
 larger houses are found to have one or more partitions, but 
 those are only parts of the main building left by the 
 sagacity of the beavers to support the roof; and the apart- 
 ments, as some are pleased to consider them, have usually 
 no communication with each other, except by water. Those 
 travellers who assert that the beavers have two doors to 
 their dwellings, one on the land side and the other next the 
 water, manifest, according to Hearne, even a greater igno- 
 rance of the habits of these animals than those who assign 
 to them an elegant suite of apartments, — for such a con- 
 
 * Hearne's Journey to the Northern Ocean. 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 253 
 
 struction would render their houses of little use, either as a 
 protection from their enemies, or as a covering from the 
 winter's cold. 
 
 It is not true that heavers drive stakes into the ground 
 
 when building their houses ; they lay the pieces crosswise 
 
 and horizontal ; neither is it true that the woodwork is first 
 
 .finished and then plastered ; for both houses and dams con* 
 
 sist from the foundation of a mingled mass of mud and 
 
 wood, mixed with stones when these can be procured. 
 
 They carry the mud and stones between their fore-paws, 
 
 and the wood in their mouths. They always work in the 
 
 night and with great expedition. They cover their houses 
 
 late every autumn with fresh mud, which freezes when the 
 
 frosts set in, and becomes almost as hard and solid as 
 
 stone ; and thus neither wolves nor wolverenes can disturb 
 
 their repose. When walking over their work, and especially 
 
 when about to plunge into the water, they sometimes give 
 
 a peculiar flap with their tails, which has no doubt occa- 
 
 sioned the erroneous belief that they use these organs ex- 
 
 actly as a mason uses his trowel. Now a tame beaver will 
 
 flap by the fireside where there is nothing but. dust and 
 
 ashes ; and it therefore only uses the trowel in common 
 
 with the water-wagtail, — in other words, the quadruped as 
 
 well as the bird is characterized by a peculiar motion of its 
 
 caudal extremity. 
 
 The food of this animal consists chiefly of the root of 
 the plant called Nuphar luteum^ which bears a resemblance 
 to a cabbage- stalk, and grows at the bottom of lakes and 
 rivers. It also gnaws the bark of birch, poplar, and willow 
 trees. In summer, however, a more varied herbage, with 
 the addition of berries, is consumed. When the ice breaks 
 up in the spring, the beavers always leave their houses and 
 rove about until a little before the fall of the leaf, when 
 they return again to their old habitations, and lay in their 
 winter stock of wood. Hearne gives the following account 
 of some tame beavers which belonged to him ; — " In cold 
 weather they were kept in my own sitting-room, where they 
 were the constant companions of the Indian women and 
 children, and were so fond of their company that when the 
 Indians were absent for any considerable time, the beavers 
 discovered great signs of uneasiness, and on their return 
 showed equal marks of pleasure, by fondling OQ them, 
 
 -«»■-' 
 

 254 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ' 4^ 
 
 crawling into their laps, lying on their backs, sitting erect 
 like a squirrel, and behaving like children who see their 
 
 {)arents but seldom. In general, during the winter, they 
 ived on the same food as the women did, and. were remark- 
 ably fond of rice and plum-pudding ; they would eat par- 
 tridges and fresh venison very freely, but I never tried them 
 with fish, though I have heard they will at times prey on 
 them. In fact, there are few graminivorous animals that 
 may not be brought to be carnivorous."* According to 
 Kalm, Major Roderfert, of New-York, h.ad a tame beaver 
 above half a year in his house, where it went about quite 
 loose like a dog. The major gave him bread, and some- 
 times Jish^ of which he was said to have been greedy. He 
 got as much water in a bowl as he wanted, and all the rags 
 and soft things he could meet with he drJigged into a cor- 
 ner, where he was accustomed to sleep, and made a bed of 
 them. The house cat on one occasion, happening to pro- 
 duce kittens, took possession of the beaver's bed without 
 his offering her any opposition. WHen the cat went out 
 the beaver often took a kitten between his paws, and held 
 it to his breast, as if for the purpose of keeping it warm ; 
 but as soon as the proper parent returned he delivered up 
 Ihe offspring.! 
 
 Another well-known amphibious quadruped of America 
 is the musk-rat, or musquash {Fiber Zibethicus). Its fur 
 resembles that of the beaver, but is shorter ; the down is 
 coarser and less valuable, and the more lengthened part of 
 the coat is weaker and not so shining. It is easily wetted 
 after death, although it resists the water well when the 
 animal is alive. The musk-rat measures about fourteen 
 inches, exclusive of the tail, which is eight or ten inches 
 long. It has a strong smell of musk, especially in the 
 spring. Its flesh, however, is eateri by the Indians ; it re- 
 sembles flabby pork. This species extends from the thir- 
 tieth to about the seventieth degree of north latitude. 
 " Their favourite abodes are small grassy lakes or swamps, 
 or the grassy borders of slow-flowing streams, where there 
 is a muddy bottom. They feed chiefly on vegetable mat- 
 
 * Hearne's Journey to the Northern Ocean, 
 t Kalin's Travels in North America. 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 265 
 
 leTBf and In northern districts principally on the roots and 
 tender shouts of the hulrush and reed mace, and on tha 
 leaves of various carices and aquatic grasses. The sweet 
 flag (^Acorus calamus)^ of whose roots, according to Peif- 
 nant, they are very fond, does not grow to the northward 
 of Lake Winipeg. In the summer they frequent rivers, 
 for the purpose, it is said, of feeding upon the fresh-water 
 muscles. We often saw small collections of muscle-shells 
 on the banks of the larger rivers, which we were told had 
 been left by them."* 
 
 Before the 'frosts set in, the musquash builds a house of 
 mud, of a conical form, with a sulTicient base to elevate the 
 chamber above the level of the water. It generally chooses 
 a spot covered with long grass^ which it incorporates with 
 the mud. It uses no kind of composition with which to 
 agglutinate these materials *, but there is usually a dry bed 
 of grass deposited within the chamber. I'he entrance is 
 under water. Dr. Richardson informs us that when ice 
 forms over the surface of the swamp, the musquash makes 
 breathing-holes through it, and protects them* from the frost 
 by a covering of .nud. . During severe winters, however, 
 these holes are frequently frozen up, and many die. Hats 
 are manufactured from the skins of these animals ; and for 
 that purpose between four and five hundred thousand are 
 imported into Great Britain every year. 
 
 Several species of meadow-mice and lemmings (Gen. 
 Arvicola tixn\ Georychus) inhabit the northern regions. Our 
 restricted limits, however, do not admit of our particularizing 
 thes'c tribes. 
 
 An animal equalling the Norway rat in size, and men- 
 tioned by Lewis and Clarke under the name of rat of the 
 Rocky Mountains, was described in the Zoological Jour- 
 nal, t and is now known as the Rocky Mountain neotoma 
 {N. Drummondiit Rich.). It is of a yellowish-brown colour 
 above, white beneath, with a tail exceeding the length of 
 the body, and bushy at the extremity. According to Mr. 
 Drummond, it makes its nest in the crevices of rocks, 
 seldom appearing in the daytime. It is a very destructive 
 animal in stores and encampments. It gnaws furs and 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i. p. 117. 
 t No. 12, March, 1828, p. 517. 
 
 I 
 
256 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ;i 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 
 blankets to pieces, and Mr. Drummond, having placed a 
 pair ot stout English shoes on a shelving rock, found on 
 his return that they had been minced into fragments as fine 
 &B sawdust. 
 
 Though neither the black nor brown rat, nor the common 
 mouse of Europe, are native to America, they now occur 
 by importation in many parts of the New World. The 
 American field-mouse {Mus leucopus) becomes an inmate of 
 the dwelling-houses as soon as they are erected at any 
 trading port. In the northern districts it extends across 
 the whole country from the shores of Hudson's Bay to tlie 
 mouth of the Columbia. "Tiie ^ait and prying actions of 
 this little creature," says Dr. Richardson, " when it ven- 
 tures from its hole in the dusk of the evening, are so much 
 like those of the English domestic mouse, that most of the 
 European residents at Hudson's Bay have considered it to 
 be the same animal, altogether overlooking the obvious dif- 
 ferences of their tails and other peculiarities. The Ame- 
 rican field-mouse, however, has a habit of making hoards 
 of grain or little pieces of fat, which I believe is unknown 
 of the European domestic mouse ; and, what is most singu- 
 lar, these hoards are not formed in the animal's retreats, but 
 generally in a shoe lefl at the bedside, the pocket of a coat, 
 a nightcap, a bag hung against a wall, or some similar 
 place.*** This species may be regarded as the representa- 
 tive of the Mus sylvaticus of Europe. Its most inveterate 
 foe is the ermine or stoat, which pursues it even into the 
 sleeping apartments. 
 
 Many marmots inhabit North America.! Of these, how- 
 ever, we shall here make mention of only a single species, 
 the wistonwish or prairie marmot {Arclomys Ludovicianus). 
 This animal is called prairie dog by Sergeant Gasst and 
 Lieutenant Fike,^ and it is also the barking-squirrel of 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i. p. 143. 
 
 t For a detailed account of these animals see Mr. Sabine's paper in 
 Linn. Trans, vol. xiii. ; the Appendix to Franklin's First Journey ; Dr. 
 Ilarlan's Fauna Americana; Dr. Godman's American Natural History; 
 Griffith's Animal Kingdom; Pallas's Novae Species Ouadrupedium e 
 Glirium Ordine; Pennant's Arctic Zoology; and Dr. Richardson's work 
 so flrequently above referred to. 
 
 t Journal of the Travels of a Corps of Discovery, dec, 
 
 $ Travels on the Missouri and Arkansaw. 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 267 
 
 Lewis and Clarke.* The entrance to the burrows of this 
 species doscctuls at first vertically, and then continues 
 downwards in an obiicjue direction. They occur at inter- 
 vals of twenty feet, and when numerous tliey are called 
 prairie dotf villagKs, 'i'he aniinalK delij^ht to sport about 
 their own doors in pleasant weather. On the approach of 
 danger, they either retreat to their holes or sit for a time 
 barkin<( and flourishini; their tails, or siltinij in an erect 
 position, as if to reconnoitre. VV'hen shot by \,\\v Imnter, 
 they generally tumble into their burrows, and are thus not 
 easily laid hold of, either dead or alive. They pass the winter 
 in a state of torpidity, aiid lay up no provisions. The 
 sleeping apartments consist of neat jflobular cells of fine 
 dry grass, with a small aperture at the top, — the whole so 
 compactly formed that it may almost be rolled over the 
 floor without beins; damage d. The warning cry of this 
 animal bears some resemblance to the hurried barking of a 
 small dog.j 
 
 The squirrel-tribe are also very numerous in the countries 
 now under consideration. The chickaree or Hudson's Bay 
 squirrel {Sciurus Hudso7uuSy Pennant) inhabits the forests 
 of white spruce-trees which cover so vast a portion of the 
 fur-countries. It extends as far to the south as the middle 
 states of America, and spreads northwards to the utmost 
 regions of the s[)ruce-forests, which cast their sombre shade 
 as high as the sixty-ninth parallel. It burrows at the root 
 of the larorest trees, and seldom stirs abroad during cold or 
 stormy weather ; but even in the depth of winter it may 
 be seen sporting among the branches whenever the snow is 
 brightened by a gleam of sunshine. When pursued it 
 makes great leaps for a time from tree to tree, but ere long 
 seeks a favourable opportunity of descending into a burrow. 
 However, it seldom voluntarily quits its own particular tree. 
 During the winter season it collects the spruce-cones, and 
 carrying them to the outskirts of its burrow, it picks out the 
 seeds beneath the snow. 
 
 Of the flying-squirrels of America we may mention the 
 species (or variety ]) discovered by Mr. Urummond on the 
 Rocky Mountains {Ptcromys Sabrinusy var. B. alpinus.) It 
 
 * Travels to the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 t Say's Notes tu Lon^'b Expedition to the R£!>cky Mountains. 
 
 Y a 
 
 In 
 
 I/Ml 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 mi 
 
 nil 
 
268 
 
 MATtlRAL HISTORY. 
 
 inhabit! denie pine-forest8, and rarely ventures from iti re* 
 treats except during the night. 
 
 PasRing over the sand-rats (genus Geomys^ Rafinesque),* 
 and the genus Aphdontia of Kichard8on,t we shall give a 
 short account of the Canada porcupine {Hyslrix pilosua of 
 Catesby, H. dorsata^ Linn.)> This singular animal is dis- 
 tributed over a considerable extent of America, from the 
 thirty-seventh to the sixty-seventh dej;ree of north latitude. 
 Dr. Harlan informs us that it makes its dwelling-place be- 
 neath the roots of hollow treeu It dislikes water, is cleanly 
 in its habits, sleeps much, and feeds principally on the bark 
 and leaves of Pinus Canadensis and Tilia glabra. It has 
 been known to strip a tree entirely of its leaves, and is also 
 fond of sweet apples and Indian corn. When discovered 
 on the ground this animal does not strive to get out of the 
 way ; but, on being approached, it immediately spreads the 
 spines near the tail over the whole of the back. The 
 female brings forth annually three or four young at a birth, 
 after a gestation of forty days. 
 
 In the fur-countries the porcupine is most numerous in 
 sandy districts covered with Pinus Banksianay on the bark 
 of which it delights to feed, as well as on that of the larch and 
 spruce-fir, and the buds of the various kinds of willows. 
 The Indian dogs do not decline to attack this "fretful" 
 creature, and they soon kill it, though not without injury to 
 themselves ; for its quills, which it never fails to. erect when 
 attacked, are dangerous from the minute teeth, directed 
 backwards, with which they are furnished. The points are 
 extremely sharp, and are no sooner lodged beneath the skin 
 of an assailant than they begin to bury themselves, and 
 finally produce death by transfixing some vital organ. 
 These spines are detachable by the slightest touch, or, as 
 some say, by the will of the animal, and soon fill the mouths 
 of the dogs by which it is attacked, and seldom fail to 
 kill them, unless carefully picked out by the Indian women. 
 Wolves also sometimes die from the same cause.t Its 
 flesh tastes like flabby pork, and though by no means 
 
 * American Monthly Mnf;. for 1817, p. 45. 
 t Zoological Journal, January, 1819. 
 ' X Fauaa Boreall- Americana, vol. 1. p. 215. 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 259 
 
 n its re- 
 
 esque),* 
 II give a 
 ilosus of 
 il is dis- 
 from the 
 latitude, 
 pi nee be- 
 is cleanly 
 I the bark 
 r. It has 
 nd IB also 
 liscovered 
 [)ut of the 
 prcnds the 
 ick. The 
 at a birtht 
 
 merous in 
 (I the bark 
 e larch and 
 if willows. 
 «» fretful" 
 It injury to 
 erect when 
 , directed 
 points are 
 [th the skin 
 Iselvest and 
 ital organ, 
 [uch, or, as 
 tlie mouths 
 lom fail to 
 Ian women, 
 luse.t Its 
 no means 
 
 agreeable to European pnltites, is much relished by the In- 
 dians. The quills arc vnriouHly died, and are gsud in the 
 working of diHfercnt ornaments and articles of hunting- 
 npparel* 
 
 There are four species of have in North America. We 
 shall give a short history and description of each. 
 
 Ist, The American liar**, commonly so called (Lepua 
 Americanusy Erxleben). This species bears a great resem- 
 blance to the European nUihlt. It seldom weighs more than 
 four pounds. In winter it is covered with a thick coat of 
 fine long fur, externally oi' a [)ure white colour, except a 
 narrow border on the posterior margins of the ears, and round 
 their tips, and about one-third down their anterior margins, 
 \vhich are blackish-brown, on account of the dark roots of 
 the hair being visible. In summer the fur of the upper 
 parts is shining blackish-gray at the roots, but tinged towards 
 the tips with yellowish-brown and black. There is a large 
 proportion of black on the back, and the resulting colour of 
 the surface is a dark umber-brown, mixed with yellowish- 
 brown. A while circle surrounds the eye. The white 
 colour commences between the fore-legs, and extending 
 over the under parts, predominates on the extremities. The 
 sides are of a dulT pale, yellowish-brown. The ears are 
 nearly naked during this season. The tail is white below, 
 mixed above with gray and brown. This species is common 
 in woody districts all over the continent of North America. 
 It abounds on Mackenzie River as high as the sixty-eighth 
 parallel ; but it appear^ to be replaced by the larger species 
 both on the "Barren Grounds" to the eastward, and on 
 the extensive plains through which the Missouri and Sas- 
 katchawan take their far-flowing courses. In summer it 
 eats grass and other vegetables, and in winter willow-bark 
 forms a principal part of its sustenance. It never burrows, 
 and is much preyed on both by man and beast. The furs 
 of this species are imported into Britain under the name of 
 rabbit-skins. Twenty-five thousaitd have been taken at a 
 trading-post in Hudson's Bay in a single season. 
 
 2d, The polar hare {Lepus glacialis^ Leach). Dr. Leach 
 appears to have first discriminated this species from the 
 varying hare. It inhabits both sides of Baffin's Bay, and 
 
 is common over the north-eastern districts of America. It 
 
 ... • 
 
 •V,.' 
 
 il 
 
 m 
 
 *< 
 
 
> ), 
 
 H. 
 
 t. 
 
 'f 
 h ^ 
 
 a a 
 
 n 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ' 
 
 #,* 'J 
 
 J 
 
 i 
 
 n 
 
 260 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 is not known to advance southward beyond the fifty-eighth 
 parallel, and does not occur in wooded countries. How- 
 ever, it is often seen in the vicinity of lliin clumps of spruce- 
 fir* It digs no burrow, but seeks the natural shelter of 
 large stones. The winter-fur of this species is of a snow- 
 white hue, even to the roots. It is denser and of a tiner 
 quality than that of tbe preceding. Summer specimens 
 killed in Melville Island (lat. 75°) had the hair of the back 
 and sides of a grayish-brown colour towards the points. 
 The tveight of this species varies from seven to fourteen 
 pounds. The iJesh is whitish and excellent, being much 
 superior in flavour to that of the American hare, and more 
 juicy than the alpi'ie hare of Scotland. 
 
 3d, The prairie iiare (Lepus Virginianus^ Harlan). The 
 fur of this species is intermediate in fineness and density 
 between that of the two species just noticed. It is common 
 on the north and south branches of the Saskatchawan, and 
 on the plains of the Missouri, as well as on those of tlie 
 Columbia River. It frequents open districts and clumps of 
 wood, and its general habits resemble those of the European 
 hare. This hare is pure white in winter, with the excep- 
 tion of the borders of the ears, which are of a wood-brown 
 er fawn-colour. In summer, the hesid, neck, back, shoulders, 
 and outer parts of the legs and thighs are of a lead-colour. 
 The lower parts are white, with a tinge of lead-colour. In 
 the month of March the summer-fur appears in combination 
 with the spotless garb of winter, and is characteristic from 
 the middle of April to the middle of November, after which 
 the snowy dress again prevails. This species can leap 
 twenty-one feet at a single spring. It weighs from seven to 
 eleven pounds. 
 
 4th, The little chief hare (L^;?ms [Lagomys'] princepSf 
 Rich.). This is a small animal, of a hiackish-brown colour 
 above, and gray beneath. Its head is short and thick, and 
 its ears are rounded. It inFiabits the Rocky Mountains be- 
 tween the fiftieth and sixtieth degrees, and was killed by 
 Mr. Drummond viear the sources of the Elk River. The 
 favourite localities of thii? species are heaps of loose stcnes, 
 through the interstices of which it makes its way with 
 great facility. It is oftcii o'.iserved, towards sunset, mounted 
 on a stone, and calling to its mates in a shrill whistle. It 
 does not appear to excavate burrows, but when approached 
 by the hunter it uttors a feeble cj^, lesembling that of a 
 
 r' 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 261 
 
 rabbit in distress, and instantly disappears among the stones. 
 Tiiis cry of" fear is repeated by its neighbours, if it has any, 
 and is so deceptive as to appear at a great distance, while 
 in fact the creatures are close at hand. The little chief 
 hare (so called, we understand, from its expressive Indian 
 appellation, buckathrce kah-yaiczcB) bears a resemblance to 
 the alpine pika described by Pallas and Pennant as inhabit- 
 inor Kamtschatka and the Aleoutian Islands. It is a diminu- 
 tive animal, not measuring more than six or seven inches m 
 length, and differs from the true hares in the number of its 
 teeth. It also wants a tail. 
 
 
 The next group to which we have to call the attention of 
 the reader is one of great interest, from the size, value, 
 and general importance in the economy of nature, of the 
 species by which it is constituted, — we mean the deer-tribe 
 of America. Of these about half a dozen different kinds 
 inhabit the fur-countries. As in the other numerous groups, 
 we must here restrict ourselves to the history of a very few 
 species. 
 
 The genus Cervu . includes all those ruminating .inimals 
 which are furnished with antlers. Two species are common 
 to the northern parts of both continents ; five or six belong 
 to North America ; four to America south of the equator ; 
 and above a dozen to India, China, and the archipelagoes of 
 the south- ea&t of Asia.* Of these some inhabit marshy 
 forests, others the wooded shores of rivers or the sea, while 
 others again prefer the bleak sides and barren valleys of 
 mountain-districts. The species vary occasionally in colour, 
 and are subject to those changes of constitution to which 
 all animals are more or less liable, and which physiologists 
 have distinguished by the names of albinism and melanism, — 
 the first applied to the white, the second to the black varieties 
 of colour. It has also been remarked as rather a singular 
 circumstance, that the white varieties occur more frequently 
 in the equatorial regions than in the colder countries of the 
 north, — a proof, perhaps, that the intensity of light and 
 
 * For the natural history and description of many of the most remark- 
 able of the Asiatic species, see " Historical and Descriptive Account of 
 British India'' (being Nos. XL VII., XLVIIL, and XLIX. of the Family 
 Library), vol. iii. 
 
 \ 
 
 ill 
 
 « 
 
' 
 
 / 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 1 
 
 622 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 heat are but secondary causes in the protluction of animal 
 colours.* 
 
 The elk or moosedeeV (Cervu.f aires) is a gi frantic animal, 
 of a heavy and rather disairreeable aspect. It is easily re- 
 cocrnised hy the great hei ,fht of its litiihs, tlie shortness of its 
 neck, its lengthened head, projecting muzzle, and short up- 
 
 n 
 
 right mane. When full grown it measures above six feet 
 in height. The fur is lonor, thick, and very coarse, of a 
 hoary-hrown colour, varying according to age ant) the se: sjii 
 of the year. The antlers are very Itroad and solid, plain on 
 the inner edge, but armed externally with numerous sharp 
 points at shoots, which sometimes amount to twenty- 
 
 * Desmoulins. 
 
QUADRUPKDS. 
 
 263 
 
 eight. A single antler has been known to weigh fifty-six 
 pounds. 
 
 The neck of thn elk is much shorter than its head, which 
 gives it almost a deformed appearance, though such a form- 
 ation is in fact rendered necessary by the great weight of 
 its antlers, which could not bo so easily supported upon a 
 neck of greater lenifth. Notwithstanding the length of its 
 muzzle, it collects its food with difficulty from the ground, 
 bein* obliged either greatly to spread out or to bend its limbs. 
 P>om this results its propensity to browse upon the lender 
 twigs and leaves of trees, — a mode of feeding which the 
 keepers of the French menagerie found it very difficult to 
 alter in the individual under their charge. The upper part 
 of the mouth j.s prolonged almost in. the form of a small 
 trunk, and furnished with muscles, which give it great flexi- 
 bility of movcnienf, and enable it rapidly to collect its food. 
 In summer, during the prevalence of the gadflies in the 
 Scandinavian penif»-*ula, it plunges into marshes, where it 
 often lies day and night, with nothing above water but its 
 head. It is even said to browse upon the aquatic plants 
 beneath the surface, making at the same time aloud blowing 
 sound through its nostrils. 
 
 The American elks live in small troops in swampy places. 
 Their gait, according to Dr. Harlan, is generally a trot, and 
 they are less active than most other deer. The old* in- 
 dividuals lose their horns in January and February, and the 
 young in April and May. In regard to their geographic;ii 
 distribution, they appear to have been formerly found as fcr 
 south as the Ohio. At present they occur only in the :^ore 
 northern parts of the United States, and beyond the Great 
 Lakes. Captain Franklin met with several during his la,st 
 expedition, feeding on willows at the mouth of the Macken- 
 zie, in lat. 69°. Although they are said to form smal' » -ds 
 in Canada, yet in the more northern parts they aro very 
 solitary, more than one being seldom seen, except during 
 the rutting-season, or when the Ibmale is accompanied by 
 her fawns. The sense of hearing is remarkably acute in 
 this species, and it is described as the shyest and most wary 
 of the deer-tribe. It is an inoffensive animal, unless when 
 irritated by a wound, when its great strength renders it for- 
 mida!)le, or during ruttinii-time, when it will kill a dog or a 
 wolf by a single blow of its fore-foot. It is much sought 
 after by the American Indians, both on account of the flesl^ 
 
 V 
 
 2: !•; SI 
 
 \> 
 
264 
 
 NATURAL HISTORV 
 
 • > 
 
 ff",' 
 
 i! 
 
 -'■ f. 
 
 which is palatable, and the hides, with which they in part 
 manufsicture their canoes, ; .id several articles of" dress. 
 The grain of the flesh is coarse, and it is tougher than that 
 of any other kind of venison. In its flavour it rather 
 resembles beef. The nose is excellent, and so is the tongue, 
 although the latter is by no means so fat and delicate as that 
 of the reindeer. The male elk sometimes weighs from a 
 thousand to twelve hundred j)ounds. 
 
 The reindeer {Cervus tarandus) is widely distributed 
 over the northern parts of both the Old and New World. 
 It has lonof been domesticated in Scandinavia, and is an 
 animal of incalculable importance to the Laplander. We 
 are less acquainted with the nature and attributes of the 
 American species ; but we shall here follow the prevailing 
 opinion, and consider it identical with thnt of the north of 
 Europe and of Asia. There appear to be two varieties of 
 reindeer in the fur-countries. One of these is confined to 
 the woody and more southern districts, the other retires to 
 the woods only during the winter oeason, and passes the 
 summer either in the Barren Grounds or along the shores of 
 the Arctic Sea. Hearne's description applies to the latter 
 kind, while the accounts given by the earlier French writers 
 dn (^anada relate to the former. 
 
 The reindeer of tie Barren Grounds is of small stature, 
 and so light of weight that a man may carry a full-grown 
 doe across his shoulder. The bucks are of larger dimen- 
 sions, and weigh, exclusive of the offal, from 90 to 130 
 pounds. The skin of the reindeer is light, and being 
 closely covired with hair, it forms a suitable and highly- 
 prized article of winter-apparel. " The skins of the young 
 deer make the best dresses, and they should be killed for 
 that purpose in the months of August or September, as after 
 the latter date the hair becomes too long and brittle. The 
 prime parts of eight or ten deer-skins make a complete 
 suit of clothing for a grown person, which is so impervious 
 to the cold, that with the addition of a blanket of the same 
 material, any one so clothed may bivouac on the snow with 
 safety, and even witli comfort, in the most intense cold of 
 an arctic winter's night."* Dr. Richardson is of opinion 
 that the flavour of the reindeer flesh is superior io that of 
 
 * Fauna fioreaU-Americaoa, vol. i. p. J^ 
 
 1 \^ 
 
 i t- 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 265 
 
 y in part 
 of dress, 
 than that 
 it rather 
 le tongue, 
 \\e as that 
 IS from a 
 
 listriftuted 
 ;vv World, 
 and is an 
 ider. We 
 tea of the 
 prevailing 
 le north of 
 varieties of 
 confined to 
 ir retires to 
 passes the 
 e shores of 
 3 the latter 
 nch writers 
 
 lall stature, 
 full-grown 
 •ger dimen- 
 90 to 130 
 and being 
 nd highly- 
 the young 
 killed for 
 )er, as after 
 ittle. The 
 a complete 
 impervious 
 )f the same 
 e snow with 
 ense cold of 
 of opinion 
 )r '.o that of 
 
 the finest English mutton. H' "or, the animal must be 
 in prime condition, as its lean s comparatively worse 
 
 than that of other creatures. emmican is formed by 
 pouring one-third part of meh a fat over the flesh of the 
 reindeer after it is dried and pounded. Of all the deer- 
 tribe of America this species is the most easily approached, 
 and immense numbers are slaughtered for the use of the 
 Indian families. 
 
 The other variety of reindeer to which we have alluded 
 above is called the woodland caribou. It is FiUch larger 
 than that of the Barren Grounds, has sm Her horns, and 
 is greatly inferior as an article of diet. The most remark- 
 able peculiarity in the habits of this animal is, that it travels 
 to the southward in the spring. It crosses the Nelson and 
 the Severn Riveis in vast herds during the month of May, 
 and spends the summer on the low marshy shores of James's 
 Bay, returning inland, and in a northerly direction, in Sep- 
 tember.* 
 
 Passing over the prong-horned antelope (.4. furcifer, 
 Smith), an inhabitant of the plains of the Missouri and 
 Saskatchawan, remarkable for its extreme swiftness, we 
 shall devote a few pages to the natural history of the wild 
 sheep and goaf, of the Rocky Mountains, two of the most 
 remarkable and important of the native quadrupeds of 
 North America. (See the following Plate.) 
 
 The Rocky Mountain sheep {Ovis montanay Desm. and 
 Rich.) inhabits the range from which it derives its name, 
 from its northern termination, or at least from latitude 68°, 
 to the fortieth degree of north latitude. It ^Iso dwells 
 among many of the elevated and craggy ridges which inter- 
 sect the country lyin,;* to the westward, between the prin- 
 cipal range and the shores of the Pacific Ocean ; but it does 
 not appear to have advanced beyond the eastern declivities 
 of tbe Rocky Mountains, and it consequently does not 
 occur in any of the hilly tracts nearer to Hudson's Bay. 
 The favourite feeding-places of this species are " grassy 
 knolls skirted by craggy rocks, to which they can retreat 
 when pursued by dogs or wolves." Its flesh, when in sea- 
 
 * For the history of the wapiti (C. stronsryloceros), the black-tailed 
 deer •^.. macrotis, Say^ ^nd the long-tailed deer (C. leucurus, Douglas), 
 we must refer to the writiugs or the various travellers and systematie 
 authors namoU In the course of those chapters. ' . 
 
 *i 
 
 f 
 
 ^ ' si 
 
 
 >i 
 

 ♦.. 
 
 \ i 
 
 
 '■ s 
 
 ■ i-1 
 
 f 
 
 ^ 
 
 i, i 
 
 ^^:^ 
 1^^^ 
 
 206 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 son, is stated by Mr. Drummond to be quite delicious, — ad 
 being far superior to that of any of the deer-species, and 
 even as exceeding in flavour the finest English mutton. 
 This showy animal exceeds the Asiatic argali in size, and 
 is much larger than the largest varieties of the domestic 
 breeds. The horns of the male are very large. The ears 
 are of moderate size. The facial line is straight, and the 
 general form of the animal, being, as it were, intermediate 
 between that of the sheep and stag, is not devoid of ele- 
 gance. The hair is like that of the reindeer, short, fine, 
 and flexible, in its autumn growth ; but as the winter ad- 
 vances, it becomes coarse, dry, and brittle, though still 
 soft to the touch : it is necessarily erect at this season, 
 from JtR extreme closeness. The limbs are covered with 
 shorter hairs. In regard to colours, the head, buttock, and 
 po8t( ri(K part of the abdomen are white ; the rest oi the 
 body iiuc the neck are of a pale or dusky wood-brown. A 
 iii<ie'ier .id more lustrous brown prevails on the fore-part 
 ot* Ihe ^egB. The tail is dark-brown, and a narrow brown 
 line, o^*ending from its base, divides the buttock, and 
 unites Tiith the brown colour of the back. The colours 
 reside in the ends of the hair, and as these are rubbed oJ3* 
 during the progress of winter, the tints become paler. 
 
 The horns of the female are much smaller, and nearly 
 erect, having but a slight curvature, and an inclination 
 backwards and outwards.^ 
 
 The following are the dimensions of an old Rocky Moun- 
 tain ram, killed on the south branch of the Mackenzie, and 
 now in the Museum of the Zoological Society of London. 
 
 Feet. Inchei. 
 
 Len^h of the head atid body 6 
 
 Height at the fore shoulder 3 5 
 
 Length of tai! 2 , 
 
 Length of horn, measured alonjr the curvature . . 2 10 * 
 
 Circumference of horn at its base 1 1 
 
 Distance from tip to tip of the horn^? 2 3 
 
 These animals collect in f!or,ks consisting of from three 
 to thirty, the young rams and the females herding together 
 during the winter and spring, while the old rams form 
 
 * The Edinburgh College Museum contains a fine specimen of tb« 
 female Rocky y«cuct8iD abeep. 
 
us, — fiH 
 
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^tJADRUPSDS. 
 
 269 
 
 leparate floc!-s, except during the month of December^ 
 \thich is their rutting-season. " The ewes bring forth in 
 June or July, and then retire with their lambs to the most 
 inaccessible heights. Mr. Drumniond informs me, that in 
 the retired parts of the mountains, where the hunters had 
 seldom penetrated, he found no difficulty in approaching 
 the Rocky Mountain sheep, which there exhibited the sim- 
 plicity of character so remarkable in the domestic species ; 
 but that where they had been often fired at they were ex- 
 ceedingly wild, alarmed their companions on the approach 
 of danger by a hissing noise, and scaled the rocks with 
 a speed and agility that baffled pursuit. He lost 'several 
 that he had mortally wounded, by their retiring to die among 
 the secladed precipices."* 
 
 When the first mission was established in California, 
 nearly two centuries after the discovery of that country, 
 Fathers Piccolo and de Salvatierra found " two sorts of 
 dter that we know nothing of; we call them sheep because 
 they somewhat resemble ours in make. The first sort is as 
 large as a calf of one or two years old ; its head is much 
 like that of a stag, and its horns, which are very large, are 
 like those of a ram; its tail and hair are speckled, and 
 shorter than a stag's, but its hoof is large, round, and cleft, 
 as an ox's. I have eaten of these beasts ; their flesh is 
 very tender and delicious. The other sort of sheep, some 
 of which are white, and others black, differ less from ours. 
 They are larger, and have a great deal more wool, which is 
 very good, and easy to be spun and wrought."! The ani- 
 mal first mentioned in the above quotation is the Rocky 
 Mountain sheep ; the other is the wild-goat of these same 
 districts, of which we shall now exhibit a brief history.t 
 
 The Rocky Mountain goat inhabits the highest and least 
 accessible summits. The precise limits of its territorial 
 range have probably not yet been ascertained ; but it appears 
 to extend from the fortieth to the sixty-fourth or sixty-fifth 
 degree of north latitude. It is seldom or never observed 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i. p. 273. 
 
 t Phil. Trans. No. 318, p. 232. 
 
 X i have elsewhere observed, that in the account of Lev/is and 
 Clarke's travels, in the Qiiarterly Review (vol. xii. p. 334, 362), there 
 are two passages, which, if not corrected, would lead to an inaccurat* 
 conclusion retjarding the origin of domestic sheep. See Quarterly 
 Journal of Agriculture, No. ix. p. 374, Note. 
 
 Z2 
 
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 11^ . 
 
 S70 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 at any distance from the mountains, and is said to be lesf 
 numerous on the eastern than the western sides. It- wai 
 not met with by Mr. Drummond on the eastern declivities 
 of the range, near the sources of the Elk River, where thp 
 sheep are numerous ; but he learned from the Indian^: 
 that It frequents the steepest precipices, and is much more 
 difficult to procure than the sheep. On the other hand, 
 Major Long states, from the information of a factor of the 
 Hudson^s Bny Company, that they are of easy access to 
 the hunter. The flesh of this species is hard and dry, and 
 somewhat unsavoury, froifi its musky flavour. Beneath its 
 long hairy covering there is a coating of wool of the finest 
 quality. **^If the Highland Society and the Hudson's Bay 
 Company were to combine their resources of * ways and 
 means,' the importation of this fine animal into the alpine 
 and insular districts of Scotland might be effected without 
 much difficulty or any great expense."* The fine wool of 
 this species grows principally on the back and buttock, and 
 is intermixed with long coarse hair.f 
 
 The bison, or American buffalo (Bos Americanus)^ is 
 spread over a great portion of the temperate regions of 
 America, and appears to extend southwards probably as 
 far as the thirty-fifth degree of north latitude. Its charac- 
 teristic positions, however, are the great prairies to the 
 westward of th© Mississippi, where, according to Dr. Harlan, 
 they sometimes congregate in such vast troops that 10,000 
 individuals are supposed to have been seen at one time. 
 Although they inhabited the Carol inas at the period of the 
 earliest colonization, they have long since retired towards 
 the plains of the Missouri. None have been seen in Penn- 
 sylvania for a long time, nor in Kentucky since about the 
 year 1766. The influence exerted over the natural bound- 
 arijBS of the brute creation is indeed strikingly illustrated 
 by the geographical history of this species. It appears to 
 have formerly existed throughout the whole extent of the 
 
 * Edinburgh Review, No. 106, p. 353. 
 
 t The synonymy of this animal is somewhat confiised. It is the 
 wool-bearing antelope, Antilope lanigera of Major Hamilton Smith ; 
 the mountain sheep (though distinct fVom the true Ovis montana) of 
 Jameson and Ord ; the Mazama dorzata et sericea of Raflnesque ; the 
 Rupicapra Americana of De Blainville ; the Antilope Americana of 
 Desmarest ; and the Capra Americana of Richardson. 
 
 
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aUADRtPEDS. 
 
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 . It is the 
 
 ton Smith; 
 
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 lesque; the 
 
 ericana of 
 
 nited States, with the possible exception of the territory 
 thr cast of Hudson's River and Lake Champlain, and of 
 
 United 
 to 
 
 some narrow lines of coast along the Atlantic shores and 
 the Gulf of Mexico. During the early part of the sixteenth 
 century it was seen by Alvar Nunez near the Bay of St. 
 Bernard, which may be regarded as its southern boundary 
 on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountain chain. It ex- 
 tends much farther north among the central than the eastern 
 territories ; for we find that a bison was killed by Captain 
 Franklin's expedition on the Salt River, in the sixtieth 
 parallel ; while it has not been traced to any of those tracts 
 which lie to the northward of Lakes Ontario, 'e, &c., 
 and to the eastward of Lake Superior. Mr. Ke-i states 
 that to the westward of Lake Winipeg the biso. .^ found 
 as far north as the sixty-second degree ;* and Dr. Richard- 
 son adduces the testimony of the natives to show that they 
 have taken possession of the flat limestone district of Slave 
 Point, on the north side of Great Slave Lake, and have 
 even wandered a.*^ far as the vicinity of Great Marten Lake, 
 in latitude 63° or 64°. The Rocky Mountain range appears 
 to have formerly opposed a barrier to the westerly progres- 
 sion of the species ; but they are said to have discovered 
 of late years a passage across these mountains, near the 
 sources of the Saskatchawan. They are now known to 
 occur both in California and New Mexico, and their exist- 
 ence on the Columbia is also ascertained. 
 
 The male bisons contend together with great fury during 
 the rutting-season, and it is dangerous to venture near 
 them at that period. In general, however, they are shy 
 and wary, and there is more difficulty than danger in ap- 
 proaching them ; but when wounded they will sometimes 
 turn upon and pursue the hunter. " While I resided at 
 Carlton House," Dr. Richardson informs us, " an accident 
 of this kind occurred. Mr. Finnan M'Donald, one of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's clerks, was descending the Sas- 
 katchawan in a boat ; and one evening, having pitched his 
 tent for the night, he went out in the dusk to look foi 
 game. It had become nearly dark when he fired at a 
 bison-bull, which was galloping over a small eminence ; and 
 as he was hastening forward to see if his shot had taken 
 
 * Account of Major Long's Expedition to the Source of St. Peter's 
 Rlvor, vol. ii. chap. i. 
 
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 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 effect, the wounded beast made a rush at him. He had 
 the presence of mind to seiie the animal by the long hair 
 on its forehead, as it struck him on the side with its horn ; 
 and being a remarkably tall and powerful man, a struggle 
 ensued, which continued until* his wrist was severely 
 sprained, and his arm was rendered powerless ; he then 
 fell, and after receiving two or three blows became sense- 
 less. Shortly afterwanl he was found by his companions 
 lying bathed in blood, being gored in several places ; and 
 the bison was couched beside him, apparently waitine to 
 renew the attack had he shown nny signs of life. Mr. 
 McDonald recovered from the immediate efTects of the in- 
 juries he received, but died a few months afterward."* 
 
 The flesh of a well-conditioned bison is juicy, and of 
 excellent flavour. The tongue is a great delicacy, and may 
 be so cured as to surpass the gusto of that part of an 
 English cow. The hump, or wig^ as it is sometimes called, 
 has a fine grain, and is almost as rich and tender as the 
 tongue. In regard to the external characters of the bison, 
 the male is remarkable for the enormous size of its head, 
 the conical elevation between the shoulders, its small 
 piercing eyes, short black horns, and on the fore-quarters 
 the great profusion of shaggy hair. Its hind-quarters 
 appear comparatively weak, from the shortness of the woolly 
 hair by which they are covered. The male sometimes 
 weighs above 2000 pounds ; but 12 or 14 cwt. is regarded 
 as a good weight in the fur-countries. It measures eight 
 feet and a half in length, and above six feet high at the 
 fore-quarter. The cow is smaller in the head and shoulders 
 than the bull. 
 
 According to Rafinesque, the bison has been domesti- 
 cated in Kentucky and the Ohio.f It is even reported by 
 some authors to have bred with the tame cow of European 
 origin; and the cross breed is said to continue prolific. 
 This statement, however, requires confirmation. " Our 
 inquiries on the spot," says Major H. Smith, '' never pro- 
 duced a proof, or even an assertion from the well-informed, 
 that they had seen the hybrid offspring." This animal is 
 unknown to the Esquimaux on the shores of the Polar Sea. 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i. p. 281. 
 
 t I state this oa the information of M. Antoiiie Desmoulins, not 
 liaving bad it in my power to peruse the work of the writer above named 
 
 <i 1 I i i. 
 
 
QUADRUPEDS. 
 
 27a 
 
 We shall conclude our account of the quadrupeds of 
 North America with the description of the musk-ox (Ovi' 
 bos moschatus of De Blainville). We stand inuebted for 
 our systematic knowledge of this curious animal to Pen- 
 nant, who received a specimen of the skin from the traveller 
 Heame ;* but it had been previously mentioned, after a 
 vague fashion, by several of the early English voyagers, 
 and M. Jeremie had imported a portion of the wool to 
 France, from which stockings more beautiful than those of 
 silk were manufactured.! When full grown, this animal 
 is about the size of the small Highland cattle. The horns 
 are remarkably broad at their bases, and cover the brow and 
 crown of the head, touching each other for their entire breadth 
 from before backwards. The nose is blunt, and the head 
 large and broad. The general colour of the coat is brown, 
 and on the back there is a saddle-like mark of a brownish- 
 white colour. The hair is very long. The horni of the 
 cow are smaller than those of the male, and do not touch 
 each other at their bases, and the hair on the throat and 
 chest is shorter. 
 
 The flesh of the musk-ox, in good condition, is well 
 flavoured. It resembles that of the rein-deer, but is coarser 
 grained, and smells strongly of musk. The carcass of this 
 animal weighs, exclusive of the offal, about 300 pounds. 
 The wool is remarkably tine. This species inhabits a great 
 extent of barren land to the northward of the sixtieth paral- 
 lel. They visit Melville Island (north lat. 75°) in the month 
 of May, but they do not, like the rein-deer, extend to 
 Greenland and Spitzbergen. 
 
 These are the principal quadrupeds of the northern re- 
 gions of the New World, t 
 
 * Arctic Zoology, vol. i. p. 11. 
 
 t Voyage au Nord. Charlevoix, Histoire de la Nouvelle Prance. 
 
 i With a view to avoid repetition, we here omit the history of tbe 
 seals and cetaceous tribes, as those departrnents have been nretty fUlly 
 illustrated in a former volume of this series. See No. XIV. of the 
 Family Library, entitled " Narrative of Discovery and Adventure in 
 the Polar Seas and Regions," by Sir John Leslie, Professor Jameson, 
 and Hugh Murray, Esq. 
 
 1, 
 
 I if 
 

 % 
 1 
 
 274 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ("I 
 
 r 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 * The Birds of the Northern Regions of America. 
 
 Tarkey Buzzard— Golden-eagle— Bald-eagle— If awkN— Owls— Butcher- 
 birds — Kingbird — Northern Tyrant — American Water-ouzel- Red- 
 breasted Thrush — Blue-bird— Arctic Blue-bird-Cedar-bird.or Ameri- 
 can Chatterer— Snow-bunting — Painted Bunting — Pine-grosbeak— 
 Evening-grosbeak — Scarlet Tanager — Cuckoo-buntmg — Crows — 
 Woodpeckers — Humming-birds — Swallows — Belted Kingfisher — 
 Grouse — Passenger-pigeon — Grallatores — Natatores — Gulls— Rocky 
 Mountain Golden-eye — Bewick's Swan — Trumpeter-swan — White 
 Pelican — Great Northern Diver —Black-throated Diver— Guillemots. 
 
 The difficulties attending the completion of an ornitho- 
 logical history were complained of by Buifon, and the chief 
 of these was stated by that illustrious obser^'er as consisting 
 in the fact that naturalists were already acquainted with 
 800 species of the class ; and he further expressed his 
 opinion that there might actually exist 1500 or even 2000 
 different kinds of birds. Now, as nearly 6000 species of 
 the feathered race have been ascertained up to the present 
 period, and many new species are in the course of being 
 discovered and described during every successive year, our 
 readers may form some opinion of the laborious toil attend- 
 ing the researches of these " degenerate days," in which 
 people of such inferior capacity to the French Pliny have 
 to grapple with a subject so infinitely more encumbered. 
 No doubt the division of labour has been more attended to 
 since the greater extension of the field of exercise, and 
 BufTon's brilliant genius was too often satisfied with vague 
 generalities, unsupportable in proportion to the increase of 
 that more definite knowledge which has been recently ac- 
 quired. With an intellect so excitable and full of thought, 
 and a flow of language so powerful and persuasive, it was 
 no marvel that such a naturalist should have outstripped for 
 a season all his competitors in the career of fame ; but the 
 fable of the helix and the hare is not altogether inapplicable 
 to the two classes of observers, of one of which Buffon was 
 the head and front ; for there was not only an occasional 
 
 
 ,0- 
 
BIRDS. 
 
 276 
 
 pause in his onward progress, but those who now follow his 
 footsteps in the search of truth are too often obliged either 
 to retrograde or trace out a labyrinth with many windings. 
 It is well, however, that such a master-spirit should in any 
 way have embraced the subject of natural history ; for it 
 has too frequently happened that men of very steril genius, 
 of whose mental constitution enthusiasm formed no por- 
 tion, have imagined themselves devoted to the study. Now, 
 even the obscurity and mistiness of BufTon, though perhaps 
 not always equal to other people's sunshine, are yet com- 
 posed of *' clouds of glory," and hence the hold possessed 
 by his writings, and by those of all belonging to the intel- 
 lectual class of observers, to whom truth is as dear as it 
 Was to Aristotle, but to whom nevertheless the common 
 sights of earth 
 
 " do sometimes seem 
 Appareird in celestial light, 
 The glory and the freshness or a dream." 
 
 The extension which we have given to the history of 
 North American quadrupeds in the preceding chapter, and 
 which we bestowed in consequence of the greater importance 
 usually attached to the mammiferous class, renders neces- 
 sary a more restricted selection in the other branches. We 
 regret this the less in retation to the feathered tribes, as an 
 admirable history of American birds has been lately brought 
 within reach of every class of readers.* We shall, how- 
 ever, endeavour to exhibit a view of some of the more 
 remarkable features of that department. 
 
 Among birds of prey, the eagle tribe naturally claim our 
 first attention ; but as it seems to be the practice of naturalists 
 to give the vultures the precedence, we shall adhere to the 
 usual course. 
 
 The turkey-vulture, or turkey-buzzard, as it is called in 
 America ( Catharfes aura), so common in the United States, 
 occurs in the central districts of the fur-countries as far 
 
 ^ I 
 
 ^ i 
 
 i 
 
 * American Ornithology, or the Natural History of the Birds of the 
 United States. By Alexander Wilson and Charles Lucian Bonaparte ; 
 edited hy Robert Jameson, Esq., F.R.S.E Sc L., &c., four volumes. 
 Edinburgh, 1831. In this edition (which forms volumes 78-81 of Con- 
 stable's Miscellany) the subjects are systematically arranged for the first 
 time, and many interesting additions have been inserted by the distin- 
 guished editor. 
 

 
 I 
 
 in 
 
 t 
 
 ] , 
 
 276 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 north as the fifty-fourth degree. It is partially migratory, 
 even in the middle states, and retires southwards on the ap- 
 proach of winter. During their summer migration, a certain 
 number of individuals reach the banks of the Saskatchawan, 
 where they usually make their appearance when the month 
 of June is far advanced, and after all the other summer- 
 birds have arrived and settled in their leafy arbours. 
 Though gregarious in the more southern parts of North 
 America, where they roost together, and also both fly and 
 feed in flocks, seldom more than a pair are seen in company 
 towards their northern limits. They feed on carrion, which 
 they discover at a great distance by the sense of sight alone ; 
 for it appears by recent observation that their sense of smell 
 is extremely defective. They usually breed on the stump 
 of a decayed tree, and have been observed t*^ return to the 
 same spot for a series of successive years. They are not 
 only foul feeders, but sometimes gorge themselves so im- 
 moderately as to be incapable for some time afterward 
 of taking wing. Mr. Ord has recorded that a man of Dela- 
 ware, observing a group of turkey- buzzards regaling them- 
 selves upon the putrid carcass of a horse, and having a mind 
 to capture one of them, he cautiously approached the flock, 
 and suddenly seized one of the fattest in his arms. The 
 indignant vulture, however, immediately disgorged such a 
 torrent of filth in his face, as to produce the effect of a 
 powerful emetic, and cured him for ever after of all desire 
 to catch any more turkey-buzzards. 
 
 The golden-eagle {Aqvila chrysatos), of which the ring- 
 tail {F, fulvus) is regarded as the young, breeds among the 
 sub-alpine recesses of the Rocky Mountains. The tail- 
 feathers are highly valued by many tribes of American 
 Indians for adorning their calumets or pipes of peace. 
 The solitary habits of these birds, and the usually inacces- 
 sible nature of the vast precipices where they hang their 
 " procreant cradles," prevent our acquiring much know- 
 ledge of the distinctive habits of the species, and hence 
 our diflliculty in discriminating between the American and 
 European kinds. Wilson observed the ring-tail sailing 
 along the alpine declivities of the White Mountains of 
 New-Hampshire, and over the Highlands of Hudson's 
 Riveri and the adult bird, in the plumage of the golden- 
 eagle, has also been observed in the United States. The 
 
 \^ 
 
BIRDS. 
 
 277 
 
 Yiaion of this bird is said to be so acute and lonff-sighted 
 that it can discover its prey from a height at which it is 
 itself scarcely visible, notwithstanding the breadth of its 
 wide-expanded wings. "A story is current," says Dr. 
 Richardson, " on the plains of the S.askatchawan, of a half- 
 breed Indian who was vaunting his prowess betbre a band 
 of his countrymen, and wishing to impress them with a 
 belief of his supernatural powers. In the midst of his 
 harangue an eagle was observed suspended, as it were, in 
 the air directly over his head, upon which, pointing aloft 
 with his' dagger, which glistened brightly in the sun, he 
 called upon the royal bird to come down. To his own 
 amazement, no less than to the consternation of the sur- 
 rounding Indians, the eagle seemed to obey the charm, for 
 instantly shooting down with the velocity of an arrow, it 
 impaled itself on the point of his weapon !"* 
 
 A large and powerful species, more generally known in 
 America, though not peculiar to the New World, is the bald- 
 eagle (Aquila leucoccphala). It resides all the year in the 
 United States, but is a bird of passage in those more north- 
 ern countries which lie between Great Slave Lake and Lake 
 Superior. Fish form the fiwourite food of the bald-eagle, 
 and there seems something more tyrannical in his mode of 
 obtaining it than altogether accords with the equality of 
 republican legislation. " Elevated," says Wilson, " on the 
 high dead limb of some gigantic tree, that commands a wide 
 view of the neighbouring shore and ocean, he seems calmly 
 to contemplate the motions of the various feathered tribes 
 that pursue their busy avocations below. The snow-white 
 gulls, slowly winnowing the air ; the busy tring(By coursing 
 along the sands ; trains of ducks, streaming over the sur- 
 face ; silent and watchful cranes, intent and wading ; 
 clamorous crows, and ull the winged multitudes that subsist 
 by the bounty of this vast liquid magazine of nature : 
 high over all these hovers one whose action instantly arrests 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. ii., tbe Birds. By William Swainsbn, 
 Esq., F.R.S.. F.L.S., dec, and John Richardson, M.D., F.R.S., F.L.S., 
 Surgeon and Naturalist to the Expeditions. I^ndon, 1831. This skil- 
 ful and beauiifiilly illustrated work is one or the most valuable volumes 
 which has recently appeared on the subject orornithology ; and, viewed in 
 connexion with the preceding publications or Wilson, C. L. Bonaparte, 
 and Audubon, it goes far u> complete our knowledge of the feathered 
 tribes of tks aortlmra regions off th« fftrw World. 
 
 Aa 
 
 I 
 
 <ai 
 
 
 ^1 tl 
 
278 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ^ % 
 
 \ '■ 
 
 I 
 
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 I 
 
 ) 
 
 I n 
 
 all his attention. By his wide curvature of wing, and sud- 
 den suspension in the air, he knows him to be the fish^hawk, 
 settling over some devoted victim of the deep. His eye 
 kindles at the sight, and balancilig himself, with half-opened 
 wings, on the branch, he watches the result. Down, rapid 
 as an arrow, from heaven descends the object of his atten- 
 tion ; the roar of its wings, reaching the ear as it disappears 
 in the deep, making the surges foam around ! At this mo- 
 ment the eager looks of the eagle are all ardour, and level- 
 ling his neck for flight, he sees the fish-hawk once more 
 emerge, struggling with his prey, and mounting in the air 
 with screams of exultation. These are the signal for our 
 hero, who, launching into the air, instantly gives chase, and 
 soon gains on the fish-hawk ; each exerts his utmost to 
 mount above the other, displaying in these rencounters the 
 most sublime aerial evolutions. The unencumbered eagle 
 rapidly advances, and is just on the point of reaching his 
 opponent, when, with a sudden scream, probably of despair 
 and honest execration, the latter drops his fish ; the eagle, 
 poising himself for a moment, as if to take a more certain 
 aim, descends like a whirlwind, snatches it in his grasp ere 
 it reaches the water, and bears his ill-gotten booty silently 
 away to the woods."* 
 
 Of the smaller tribes of the Falconida which inhabit the 
 fur-countries, we shall satisfy ourselves by a simple enume- 
 ration of the names, t and proceed to the nocturnal birds of 
 prey. 
 
 Of the Strigid(Bf or owls, Mr. Swainson has observed, 
 "They present an assemblage of birds as united among 
 themselves as they are distinct from all others. There is, 
 we believe, no one species yet discovered which even a 
 
 * American Ornithology, vol. i. p. 23. We quote Professor Jameson's 
 edition througliout this volume. 
 
 t The peregrine falcon (F. peregrinvs), the jerfalcon (F. islandicus\ 
 the American sparrow-hawk (F.sparverius), the pigeon-hawk (F. colum- 
 hariua), the merlin (F. cesalon), the goshawk (F. pcdumbarms), the 
 state-coloured hawk (F. Pennsylvanicus), the common buzzard (F. 
 huteo), the red-tailed or American buzzard (F. borealis), the rough-legged 
 Mcon (F. lagopus), the American ring-tail (F. cyaneus?). The preced- 
 ing, with three species of eagle, raise the amount of northern accipitrine 
 diurnal birds to fourteen. C. L. Bonaparte enumerates sevBnteen species 
 in his ** Synopsis," and has described an eighteenth in his Sapplsment 
 to Wilson, under the name of Falco Cooperi. Mr. Aadubon hu ItkewiM 
 
 1 
 I 
 
or Jameson's 
 
 BIRDS. 
 
 279 
 
 common observer would not immediately pronounce to be 
 an owl, or would be in danger of confounding with a hawk 
 or goat-sucker, the only two groups to which the Strigide 
 are related in immediate affinity. Yet, although this rela- 
 tionship is too obvious to be doubted, it must be confessed 
 that a considerable hiatus intervenes between both. Whe- 
 ther these will be lessenec) by future discoveries, or whether 
 owls, like the parrots, are in some degree an isolated group, 
 whose aberrant forms no longer exist, are points which may 
 always remain in obscurity." 
 
 The largest of the North American species is the great 
 cinereous owl {Strix cinerea). It inhabits a vast extent of 
 woody territory from Hudson's Bay to the Pacific. It is 
 common along the shores of Great Bear Lake, and of course 
 in these and other higher latitudes must of necessity pursue 
 its prey by daylight, the mantle sf night being there a thing 
 unknown during the summer season. However, it hunts 
 chiefly when the sun is low, and when the shadows of the 
 great woods are deep and lengthened ; for it is then that 
 the American hares and many murine animaJs which form 
 its favourite food are themselves abroad. On the 23d of 
 May, Dr. Richardson discovered a nest of the cinereous 
 owl, made of sticks and lined with feathers, on the top of a 
 lofty balsam poplar-tree. It contained three young, covered 
 over with a whitish down. He could only get the nest by 
 felling the tree, which was a remarkably thick one ; and 
 while the operation was going on, the about to be berei^ved 
 parents flew in anxious and repeated circles abov ^nd 
 around the objects of their long solicitude, keeping, hoyr~ 
 ever, so high in the air as to be beyond gunshot. I'he 
 young were kept alive for a period of two months, after 
 which they effected their escape. This species measures 
 about two feet in length from bill to tail. 
 
 The Virginian horned-owl {Strix Virginiana) is another 
 large species peculiar to America, but very widely diffused 
 
 dedicated a new species, under the name of Faleo Stanleii, to the noble 
 president of the Linnsean Society. Four of Bonaparte's list, vii. F. 
 plumbeits, F. melanopterus, F. jureatus, and F. Pentisylvanicus, B., 
 seem to occur only in the southern parts of the United States, and there- 
 fore do not fall within our limits ; but three others, the Stanley-hawk 
 above named, along with Buteo Sancti-Johannis and B. hyemeUis, are 
 supposed to be northern birds. The arctic range of Mr. Audubon's 
 soecies is probably still unknown. 
 
 'M 
 
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 280 
 
 NATURAL HI'JTORV. 
 
 over the New World. It was killed by Mr. Drummond 
 among the Rocky Mountains. It is known to inhabit the 
 table-lnnda of Mexico, and even the species from the Straits 
 of Magellan (Planches Enluminics^ 58b) appears to be iden- 
 tical. In the United States it is extremely common, and 
 inhabits the fur-countries wherever the timber is of large 
 size. Its loud nocturnal cries, issuing from the gloomiest 
 recesses of the forest, are said to bear a resemblance to a 
 hollow and sepulchral human voice, and have thus been the 
 frequent source of alarm to the benighted traveller. A 
 party of Scottish Highlanders, in the service of the Hudson^s 
 bay Company, happened in a winter*s journey to encamp 
 after nightfall in a dense clump of trees, the dark tops of 
 which, and their lofty stems, gave a solemnity to the scene, 
 strongly excitable of superstitious feelings. The solemn 
 effect was heightened by the discovery of a tomb, which, 
 with a natural taste not unfrequently exhibited by the In- 
 dians, was placed in the centre of this secluded spot. The 
 travellers had finished their evening repast, and were trim- 
 ming their fira for the night, when ^r the first time the slow 
 and dismal tones of the horned-owl fell on their ear. They 
 at once concluded that a voice so mysterious and unearthly 
 must be the moaning spirit of the departed, whose hallowed 
 fane they bad disturbed by inadvertently making a fire of the 
 timber of his tomb. They consequently passeda long night 
 of sleepless fear, and gladly quitted the ill-omened spot 
 with the earliest dawn.* 
 
 In our notices of these and other well-known species, we 
 consider it unnecessary to enter into any minute descriptive 
 details of plumage, preferring rather tio illustrate their his- 
 tory, distribution, and general modes of life, as more likely 
 to interest the majority of readers. In the case, however, 
 of any new or remarkable discovery, we may occasionally 
 deviate from this rule, and, as an exception to our usual 
 practice, we may here take an elegant species recently de- 
 scribed for the first time under the name of the arctic or 
 white-horned owl (Strix arcticd). This fine owl is exceed- 
 ingly rare, only a single specimen having been seen by the 
 overland expeditions. It measures about two feet in length. 
 Its general colour is white, tinged here and there with brown 
 
 • 
 
 * Fauna Boreali-Amerioina, vol. 11. p. 88. 
 
 \ 
 
 ^ 
 
BIRDS. 
 
 281 
 
 Upon the dorsal aspect, and marked with crowded transverse 
 blackish-brown bars and lines. The ground-colour of the 
 under portion of the plumage is of a brilliant white, banded 
 on the throat and flanks. The facial disk is imperfect, the 
 ear-feathers are ample, the tail rounded, the bill short and 
 strong. This bird was killed at Carlton House, in the 
 month of May. 
 
 We now enter upon a short consideration of the Inses- 
 aortal or perching-birds, as they are called by the modern 
 systematists. The order includes the Pica and Passcrca 
 of the Linnsean arrangement. We commence with the 
 butcher-birds, genus Lanius. 
 
 The American gray-shrike {Lanius excuhitorides of Swain- 
 eon), a newly-ascertained species, bears a great resemblance 
 to the a<:h-coloured shrike of Europe. It does not advance 
 farther to the northward than the fifty-fourth degree, and 
 seems to attain to that latitude only in the meridian of the 
 warm and sandy plains of the Saskatchawan, which are 
 said to enjoy an earlier spring and longer summer than the 
 densely- wooded countries between them and Hudson's Bay. 
 It builds among willow-bushes, feeds on grasshoppers, and 
 lays six eggs of a pale yellowish-gray, irregularly spotted 
 with green and gray. 
 
 Allied to the shrikes in many particulars are the tyrant 
 fly-catchers. The king-bird {Tyranmts intrepidus) is one 
 of the most remarkable for the boldness and reckless daring 
 which he displays in his attacks on the largest of the fea^ 
 thered race. During the earlier months of summer, his life 
 is one continued scene of broil and battle. According to 
 Wilson, hawks and crows, the bald-eagle, and the great 
 black-eagle, all equally dread an encounter with this daunt- 
 less creature, who, as soon as he perceives a bird of prey, how- 
 ever powerful, in his neighbourhood, darts into the air, and 
 quickly ascending above his supposed enemy, pounces with 
 violence upon his back, and continues his attack till his own 
 domains have been departed from. He is likewise ob- 
 noxious to the human race, on account of his love of bees ; 
 for he will take post on a fence or garden-tree in the vicinity 
 of the hives, and make continual sallies on the industrious 
 insects as they pass to or from their never-ending labours. 
 The American ornithologist has given a poetical version of 
 
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 282 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 the life of this lively speciei, of which the following U the 
 commencement : — 
 
 " Ftr in the south whem vast Maragnon (Iowa, 
 And boundloaM forestH unknown wildii encloaa ; 
 Vtne-taiigled shores and siiflTocating woods, 
 Parch'd up with heal, or drown'd with (louring flooda ; 
 Where each extreme alternately prevaila, 
 And nature sad their ravajres bewails ; 
 1.0 1 hi|{h in air above those trackless wastes ; 
 With sprins's return the king-bird hither haste* ; 
 Coaataibe fkmed guif,* and, lYoin his height, explortfl 
 Its thonsrtnd streams, its long indented shores, 
 Its plains immense, wide opening on the day. 
 Its lakes and isles, where fbather'd millions play; 
 All tempt not him : till, gating from on high, 
 Columbian regions wide below him lie ; 
 There end his wand'rings and his wish to roam, 
 There lie his native woods, his fields, his home ; 
 Down, circling, he descends, from azure heights, 
 And on a full-blown sassarras alights. 
 
 Fatigued and silent, for a while he views 
 His old rrequented haunts, and shades recluse ; 
 Sees brothers, cotnrsdea, every hour arrive,— 
 Hears, humming round, the tenants of the hive. 
 Love flres his breast ; he woos, and soon is bleat, 
 \nd in the blooming orchard builds his neat."— 
 
 And so on. The king-bird migrates in summer at least as 
 far north as the fifty-seventh parallel. It reaches Carlton 
 House in the month of May, and retires southward in 
 September. It feeds on insects and wild berries. 
 
 A new species of this genus has been lately described 
 under the title of northern tyrant (Tyrannns borealis, 
 Swainson). It was shot on the banks of the Saskatcha- 
 wan, but nothing is known of its habits. It is consider- 
 ably smaller than the preceding, and may at once be dis- 
 tinguished from it by its forked tail, not tipped with white. 
 
 Among the Merulida or thrushes we may here mention 
 the representative of our water-ouzel, the American dipper 
 {Cinclus Americanus). Although ascertained by Mr. W. 
 Bullock to be an inhabitant of Mexico, and obtained by Mr. 
 Drummond on the eastern declivity of the Rocky Mountains, 
 near the sources of the Athabasca River, it does not yet ap- 
 pear to have been detected in the intermediate regions of 
 
 * or Mexico. 
 
 ,1 
 
BlRDf. 
 
 288 
 
 the United Stntei. According to Bonapnrtc, this Bpecies 
 measuren eight inches und >i half. It is consequently 
 longer than the European dipper or water-crow. The 
 general plumage is dark-grayish slate-colour. The legs 
 and feet are flesh-colour. We as yet know nothing of the 
 habits of the American species, hut its European congener 
 dwells single or in pairs by the side of clear and swift- 
 running streams. It walks under water in search of prey, 
 wading in from the shore, and remaining for some time sub- 
 merged.* 
 
 The bird called robin in America is the red-breasted 
 thrush of Pennant {Turdus migratorius). It is one of their 
 best known and earliest songsters. While the fields are 
 yet dappled with snow, they are seen in flocks, and some 
 few lively aspirants will even then mount to the top of a 
 post, and make attempts at song. As the season advances 
 their notes are universally heard, and as universally beloved, 
 and are regarded as the " prelusive symphony" to the great 
 concert which is about to burst ere long from numerous 
 bills, from every thicket, wood, and field. Although re- 
 garded with much of the same feeling as that which we 
 ourselves entertain towards our own household bird, the red- 
 breast, they are, nevertheless, brought to market in great 
 numbers, and Wilson mentions that in the month of Janu- 
 ary, 1S07, two young men shot thirty dozen in a single 
 excursion. This species inhabits the whole of North 
 America from Hudson's Bay to Nootka Sound, and as far 
 south as Georgia, though they are said rarely to breed on 
 this side the mountains farther south than Virginia. " With- 
 in the Arctic Circle," Dr. Richardson has beautifully ob- 
 served, " the woods are silent in the bright light of noon- 
 day ; but towards midnight, when the sun travels near the 
 horizon, and the shades of the forest are lengthened, the 
 concert commences, and continues till six or seven in the 
 morning. Even in those remote regions the mistake of 
 
 * Wliile engaged in the correction of these sheets for the press, w^ 
 bave been favoured by Sir William Jnrdine with a copy of his yet un- 
 published edition or WilKoirs American Oniitholojiy. Many valuable 
 notes have been appended by the editor to illustrulc the general distribu- 
 tion or those groups, or which there are American represteiitalives. The 
 •applementary volumes by C. L. Hoiiaparte are included; and most of 
 tbe new species discovered or described by Messrs. Swainsou, Richard- 
 ■OD, and Audubon, are likewise inserted or referred to. 
 
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 284 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 those naturalists who have asserted that the feathered tribetf 
 of America are void of harmony mig it be fully disproved. 
 Indeed, the transition is so sudden from the perfect repose, 
 the deathlike silence of an Arctic winter, to the animated 
 bustle of summer ; the trees spread their foliage with such 
 magical rapidity, and every succeeding morning opens with 
 such agreeable accessions of feathered songsters to swell- 
 the chorus — their plumage as gay and unimpaired as when 
 they enlivened the deep green forests of tropical climes— 
 that the return of a northern spring excites in the mind a 
 deep feeling of the beauties of the season, a sense of the 
 bounty and providence of the Supreme Being, which is 
 cheaply purchased by the tedium of nine months of winter. 
 The most verdant lawns and cultivated glades of Europe, 
 the most beautiful productions of art, faU in producing 
 that exhilaration and joyous buoyancy of mind which we 
 have experienced in treading the wilds of Arctic America, 
 when their snowy covering has been just replaced by an in- 
 fant but vigorous vegetation. It is impossible for the traveller 
 to refrain, at such moments, from jcininor his aspirations to 
 the song which every creature around is pouring forth to 
 the Great Creator." This is finely said, and loses none of 
 its force as proceeding from the pen of one not given to 
 affect a sickly sentimentalism, but who has ever had to do 
 more with the practice than the poetry of life and nature. 
 In a similar strain so also wrote the divine Milton, — ^but 
 to whom the freshness of spring, the azured mantle of 
 the glorious summer, and the vaned splendour of the far- 
 spreading autumnal forests, were .then only as visions of 
 the past— • 
 
 " So thick a drop serene 
 Had qaench'd bis orbs, or dim suffUsion veil'd.". 
 
 Of many beautiful and interesting species of the family 
 of the Syhiadcs which enliven the countries of our present 
 inquiry, we shall confine our observations to the blue-birds. 
 
 The common blue-bird {Saxicola sialism Bon., Erythaca 
 WUsoniiy Swain.) has the whole of the upper plumage of 
 a fine blue, while the throat, neck, breast, and flanks are 
 bright orange-brown. The general character and move- 
 ments of tlus bird resemble those of the European red- 
 
BIRDS. 
 
 285 
 
 •red tribe* 
 lisproved. 
 ct repose, 
 animated 
 with such 
 ►pens with 
 rs to swell- 
 (1 as when 
 \ climes— 
 the mind a 
 snse of the 
 which is 
 of winter, 
 of Europe, 
 producing 
 which we 
 ic America, 
 ed by an in- 
 the traveller 
 ipirations to 
 ring forth to 
 >se8 none of 
 lot given to 
 r had to do 
 and nature, 
 klilton,— but 
 i mantle of 
 r of the far- 
 s visions of 
 
 ne 
 
 of the family 
 our present 
 He blue-birds. 
 JErythaca 
 plumage of 
 id flanks are 
 and move- 
 uropean led- 
 
 n. 
 
 r 
 
 breast, and he is himself as familiarly known in summer to 
 the children of America, as the robin is to ourselves in the 
 winter season. Wilson informs us that the society of the 
 blue-bird is much courted by the inhabitants of the country, 
 and that few farmers neglect to provide for him a snug 
 little summer-house, ready fitted and rent-free. He is 
 migratory over the northern districts, but a few remain 
 throughout the winter in some parts of the United States. 
 
 A newly-discovered species, nearly allied to the preceding, 
 is named by Mr. Swainson the Arctic blue^bird {Erythaca 
 Arctica). Its colour is a fine ultramarine blue above, be- 
 neath greenish-blue, and whitish on the lower part of the 
 abdomen and under tailcoverts. The only specimen pro- 
 cured by the overland expedition was shot at Fort Frank- 
 lin in July, 1825. It is merely a summer visiter of the fur- 
 countries, and no knowledge of its haunts or habits has been 
 yet obtained. 
 
 To illustrate the Ampelidm we shall merely mention the 
 American cedar-bird, or chatterer of Carolina, as it was 
 called by Edwards {BombycilUi Americana). This bird was 
 regarded by the naturalists of last century as a mere variety 
 of the European or Bohemian chatterer. It is, however, 
 a distinct species, of smaller size, and has no white upon 
 the wings ; the chin has less black, and the bill is shorter 
 and somewhat broader. The European bird has also been 
 detected in North America by Mr. Drummond and Dr. 
 Richardson. 
 
 The well-known snovr-hunting (Emberiza nivalis) is com- 
 mon to the New and Old World. " Near the large grave," 
 says Captain Lyon, " was a third pile of stones covering 
 the body of a child which was coiled up in the same man- 
 ner. A snow-bunting had found its way through the loose 
 stones which composed this little tomb, and its now for- 
 saken, neatly built nest, was found placed on the neck of 
 the child. As the snow-hunting has all the domestic vir- 
 tues of our English redbreast, it has always been considered 
 by us as the robin of these dreary wilds, and its lively chirp 
 and fearless confidence have rendered it respected by the 
 most hungry sportsmcan. I could not on this occasion view 
 its little nest placed on the breast of infancy, without wish- 
 ing that I possessed the power of poetically expressing the 
 
 u 
 
 ii 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 
 
286 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 n 
 
 '. 
 
 feelings it excited."* The bold navigator may rest assured 
 that his simple recital of this circumstance is much more 
 effective and pictorial than if he had recourse to a rhyming 
 dictionary. The Lapland bunting {E. Lapponica) is also 
 found in the northern regions of both continents ; and a 
 beautiful species, nearly allied to it, the painted bunting {Plec- 
 trophanespicta of Swainson), was lately discovered on the 
 banks of the Saskatchawan. For the history and description 
 of these, as well as of many beautiful larks and finches, 
 we must r(.fer the reader to the works already mentioned. 
 
 The pine-grosbeak {Pyrrhula enucleator) is the largest 
 of the bullfinch tribe. It measures above eleven inches in 
 length. Of the grosbeaks, properly so called (genus Coc- 
 cothrauste8\ the gayest and most remarkable is called the 
 evening-grosbeak (C vespertina, Bon.). It is a common 
 inhabitant of the maple-groves which adorn the plains of 
 the Saskatchawan, and is known to the natives by the name 
 of seesebasquit'pethaysishy which, being interpreted, signi- 
 fies sugar-bird. According to Mr. Swainson's views, this 
 is the only genuine species of the genus hitherto discovered 
 in America. We owe it to the observance of Mr. Cooper.t 
 
 The scarlet tanager {Tanagra rubra) is one of the most 
 brilliant of those southern species which during the summer 
 migration shed their lustre over more northern lands. The 
 whole plumage, with the exception of the wings and tail, 
 is of the most vivid carmine-red. The wing-coverts, pos- 
 terior secondaries, and middle tail-feathers are black, and 
 form a rich contrast to the other portions of the plumage. 
 After the autumnal moult, the male becomes dappled with 
 greenish-yellow. The plumage of the female is green above 
 and yellow below ; her wings and tail are brownish-black, 
 edged with green. Though this species sometimes builds 
 in orchards, and visits the cherry-trees for the sake of their 
 fruit, it doesfiot frequently approach the habitations of man, 
 but prefers the solitude of the umbrageous woods. In ad- 
 dition to firuits, its food consists of large winged insects, 
 such as wasps, hornets, and bumblebees. The scarlet 
 tanager is as yet unknown beyond the forty-ninth parallel, 
 and 80 comes just within the southern limits of the fur- 
 
 * Narrative of an A ttempt to reach Repulse Bay, 
 t Ado. Lye. New- York, vol. i. p. 2S0. 
 
^ 
 
 BIRDS. 
 
 287 
 
 assured 
 ich more 
 rhyming 
 i) is also 
 I ; and a 
 ing (Piec- 
 ed on the 
 escription 
 J finches, 
 jntioned. 
 16 largest 
 inches in 
 ;enu8 Coc- 
 called the 
 a common 
 lc plains of 
 f the name 
 Bted, signi- 
 views, this 
 , discovered 
 r. Cooper.t 
 )f the most 
 the summer 
 ands. The 
 gs and tail, 
 Iverts, pos- 
 hlack, and 
 le plumage, 
 appled with 
 green ahove 
 vnish-black, 
 times builds 
 lake of their 
 ions of man, 
 ods. In ad- 
 red insects. 
 The scarlet 
 inth parallel, 
 of the fur- 
 Bay. 
 
 countries. The following interesting narrative is gfven by 
 Alexander Wilson : — " Passing through an orchard one 
 morning, I caught one of these young birds, that had but 
 lately left the nest. I carried it with me about half a 
 mile, to show it to my friend Mr. William Bartram ; and 
 having procured a cage, hung it up on one of the large pine- 
 trees in the botanic garden, within a few feet of the nest of 
 an orchard-oriole, which also contained young, hopeful that 
 the charity or tenderness of the orioles would induce them 
 to supply the cravings of the stranger. But charity with 
 them, as with too many of the human race, began and ended 
 at home. The poor orphan was altogether neglected, not- 
 withstanding its plaintive cries ; and as it refused to be fed 
 by me, I was about to return it back to the place where I 
 found it, when, towards the afternoon, a scarlet tanager, no 
 doubt its own parent, was seen fluttering round the cage 
 endeavouring to get in. Finding this impracticable, he flew 
 off and soon returned with food in his bill, and continued 
 to feed it till after sunset, taking up his lodgings in the 
 higher branches of the same tree. In the morning, almost 
 as soon as day broke, he was again seen most actively en- 
 gaged in the same affectionate manner ; and, notwithstand- 
 ing the insolence of the orioles, continued his benevolent 
 ofHces the whole day, roosting at night as before. On the 
 third or fourth day he appeared extremely solicitous for the 
 liberation of his charge, using every expression of distressful 
 anxiety, and every call and invitation that nature had put in 
 his power for him to come out. This was too much for the 
 feelings of my venerable friend ; he procured a ladder, and, 
 mounting to the spot where the bird was suspended, opened 
 the cage, took out the prisoner, and restored him to liberty 
 and to his parent, who, with notes of great exultation, ac- 
 companied his flight to the woods. The happiness of my 
 good friend was scarcely less complete, and showed itself in 
 his benevolent countenance ; and I could not refrain saying 
 to myself — if such sweet sensations can be derived from a 
 simple circumstance of this kind, how exquisite, how un- 
 speakably rapturous, must the delight of those individuals 
 have been, who have rescued their fellow-beings from death, 
 chains, and imprisonment, and restored them to the arms of 
 their friends and relations ! Surely in such godlike actions 
 
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288 
 
 NATURAL HISTOUY. 
 
 
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 virtue is its own most abundant reward !"^ Nevertheless, 
 as practical ornithology can by no means flourish without 
 powder and shot, Wilson continued to knock down as many 
 birds as he required, — and they were many, — for the space 
 of several succeeding years. Alas ! that the latter were 
 80 few. 
 
 More allied to the starling tribe is a bird remarkable for 
 the singularity of its habits, called the cowpen or cuckoo- 
 bunting {Emberiza pecoris of Wilson), classed by Mr. 
 Swainson in the genus Molothrus, It visits the fur-coun- 
 tries in May, and, after ranging as far north as the sixtieth 
 parallel, it departs in September, and collecting in large 
 flocks during the ensuing month in Penns3^1vania, it finally 
 retires to winter-quarters in Mexico and the most southern 
 parts of the United States. It feeds on grain, grass, and 
 worms, and is frequently seen perched familiarly on the 
 backs of cattle. But the most remarkable trait in the 
 character of this species is its practice (like that of our 
 own cuckoo) of laying its eggs in the npsts of other birds, 
 and abandoning its future o^spring to the care of strangers. 
 The yellow-throat and -red-eyed fly-catcher are most fre- 
 quently selected to perform the office of foster-parents. 
 
 Passing over the rice-bird, the Baltimore oriole, the pur- 
 ple grakle, and others of the SturnidoRf we shall here briefly 
 notice the family of the crows. The raven. ( Corrw* corax,) 
 which occurs in all the four quarters of the globe, is abund- 
 ant in the fur-countries ; and the carrion-crow ( C. corone) 
 also occurs there, but appears to be of a less hardy nature, 
 as it is seen in the interior in summer only, and does not 
 seem to approach within 500 or 600 miles of Hudson's Bay. 
 The magpie ( C pica) is as common in the prairie lands of 
 America as it is in Europe. Several beautiful jays likewise 
 occur in North America. 
 
 We come next to the woodpeckers, which are numerous 
 and widely spread over the American continent, as might be 
 expected in connexion with the vast forests with which so 
 much of the country is still encumbered. The ivory-billed 
 
 * Anwrlean Ornitbolbgy, vol. ii. p. SSa 
 
 V 
 
niRDS. 
 
 ^## 
 
 28D 
 
 woodpecker (Picks pn'ncivalis) is undoubtedly the most 
 magnificent of the genus. While many of the smaller 
 kinds seek their prey in the orchard or shrubbery, among 
 rails, fences, or prostrate logs, the present species inhabit 
 the most towering trees of the forest, " seeming particularly 
 attached to those prodigious cypress swamps, whose crowded 
 giant sons stretch their bare and blasted, or moss-hung 
 arms, midway to the skies. In these almost inaccessible 
 recesses, amid ruinous piles of impending timber, his 
 trumpet-like notes and loud strokes resound through the 
 solitary savage wilds, of which he seems the sole lord and 
 master." The food of this species, Mr. Audubon informs 
 us, consists chiefly of beetles, larvse, and large grubs. No 
 sooner, however, are the grapes of the forest ripened, than 
 they are eaten by the ivory-billed woodpecker with great 
 avidity. " I have seen this bird," says the last-named ex- 
 cellent observer, "hang by its claws to the vines, in the 
 position so often assumed by a titmouse, and, reaching 
 downwards, help itself to a bunch of grapes with much 
 apparent pleasure."* Although we have introduced a no- 
 tice of this fine species, we are not aware that it extends 
 so far to the north as the countries with which we are at 
 present engaged. It is, however, well known in many of 
 the United States. A much more northern species is the 
 three-toed woodpecker (P. tridactylns of Swainson), which 
 exists in all the forests of spruce-fir that lie between Lake 
 Superior and the Arctic Sea. It is the most common of the 
 species that occur to the north of Great Slave Lake. 
 
 The varieties of the feathered race are inexhaustible. 
 Hach tribe and family contains many familiar and well-re- 
 membered species, on the history of which we could dilate 
 with pleasure ; but we must of necessity leave even the 
 names of many unrecorded. Two frail and fairy beings, 
 however, seemingly of too delicate a fabric to withstand the 
 rudeness of the northern blasts, now solicit our regard, and 
 as they have flown far to obtain it, we must here insert a 
 compendious history of the North American humming-birds. 
 Meanwhile, let us borrow the words of the enthusiastic 
 Audubon. They apply to the ruby-throated species {Tro' 
 
 \ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■i 
 
 ■••M 
 
 W 
 
 '>-\ 
 
 (!■!' 
 
 If 
 
 * Ornitbological Biography, vol. i. p. 344. 
 Bb 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
 1 \ 
 
290 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 chilus colubrist Linn.). " No sooner has the returning aun 
 again introduced the vernal season, and caused millions of 
 plants to expand their leaves and blossoms to his genial 
 beams, than the little humming-bird is seen advancing on 
 fairy-wings, carefully visiting every opening flower-cup, and 
 like a curious florist, removing from each the injurious in- 
 sects that otherwise would, ere long, cause their beauteous 
 petals to droop and decay. ' Poised in the air, it is observed 
 peeping cautiously and with sparkling eye into their inner* 
 most recesses, while the ethereal motions of its pinions, so 
 rapid and so light, appear to fan and cool the flower without 
 injuring its fragile texture, and produce a delightful mur- 
 muring sound, well adapted for lulling the insects to repose. 
 Then is the moment for the humming-bird to secure them. 
 Its long delicate bill enters the cup of the flower, and the 
 protruded double-tubed tongue, delicately sensible, and im- 
 bued with a glutinous saliva, touches each insect in suc- 
 cession, and draws it from its lurking-place to be instantly 
 swallowed. All this is done in a moment, and the bird, as 
 it leaves the flower, sips so small a portion of its liquid 
 honey, that the theft, we may suppose, is looked upon with 
 a grateful feeling by the flower, which is thus kindly relieved 
 from the attacks of her destroyers. 
 
 " The prairies, the oi-chards, and gardens, nay, the deep- 
 est shades of the forest, are all visited in their turn, and 
 everywhere the little bird meets with pleasure and with 
 food. Its gorgeous throat in beauty and brilliancy bafiBes 
 all competition. Now it glows with a fiery hue, and again 
 it is changed to the deepest velvety black. The upper parts 
 of its delicate body are of resplendent changing green, and 
 it throws itself through the air with a swiftness and vivacity 
 hardly conceivable. It moves from one flower to another 
 like a gleam of light, upwards, downwards, to the right, 
 and to the left. In this manner it searches the extreme 
 northern portions of our country, following with great pre* 
 caution the advances of the season, and retreats with 
 equal care at the approach of autumn."* 
 
 Tlie nest of this species is formed with a delicacy propor- 
 tioned to its tiny inmates. The external parts consist of 
 a light-gray lichen found on the branches of trees or on 
 
 * Ornithological Biography, vol. 1. p. 948, 
 
filRDS. 
 
 * 
 
 291 
 
 decayed fence-rails, and so trimly arranged around the nest, 
 as well as at some distance from the spot to which it is at- 
 tached, as to appear like a portion of the stem. These little 
 pieces of lichen are glued together, as some say, with the 
 saliva of the bird. The next layer consists of a cottony 
 substance, and the innermost of silky fibres obtained from 
 various plants, but all extremely soft and delicate. In this 
 sweet receptacle the female deposites a single pair of eggs, 
 pure white, and of an almost oval form. 
 
 A Virginian gentleman kept two of these creatures in a 
 cage for several months. He supplied them with a mixture 
 of honey and water. On this they appeared to feed ; but 
 as the sweet and viscous liquid brought many small flies 
 about the cage, the humming-birds were seen to snap at 
 and swallow the insects with great eagerness. Mr. C. W. 
 Peale also succeeded in reanng two young ones from the 
 nest. They used to fly about the room, and would fre- 
 quently perch on Mrs. Peale's shoulder. Wilson himself 
 took a nest in the summer of 1803, the inhabitants of which 
 were just about to fly ; indeed one of them flew out by the 
 window that same evening, and, striking against a wall, 
 was killed. The other refused food, and was scarcely alive 
 next morning. A lady, however, undertook to nurse it, and 
 dissolving a little sugar in her mouth, she thrust in the 
 bird's bill, which immediately sucked with great avidity. 
 It was kept for three months, and daily supplied with loaf- 
 sugar dissolved in water. Fresh flowers were also scattered 
 every morning around its food ; and in this way it appeared 
 gay, active, and full of spirits, and hovered from flower to 
 flower as if in its natural state. It never failed to express, 
 both by a peculiar motion and a chirping voice, the greatest 
 pleasure when its supply of flowers was introduced into the 
 cage. It became the admiration of all beholders, and 
 sanguine hopes were entertained that it might be pre- 
 served throughout the winter ; but unfortunately it one day 
 got at large, and flying about the room in a more excited 
 manner than usual, it injured itself in such a way as to die 
 soon aiter.^ The species to which these observations apply 
 
 f?1 
 
 ' '-^' 
 
 if'' 
 
 11 
 
 if 
 
 
 * In addition to the writings of Wilson and Audubon, consult, for a 
 knowledge of the history and habits of humming birds, Mr. Bullock's 
 "Six Months in Mexico," and M. Lesson's "Histoire des Oiseuz 
 Mouches." 
 
 m 
 
292 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 i 
 
 ; 
 
 
 *im 
 
 rnngcs during the summer season as far to the north as the 
 57th parallel. Dr. Richardson found it on the plains of the 
 Saskatchawan, and Mr. Drummond discovered its nest near 
 the sources of the Elk River. This was composed chiefly 
 of the down of an anemone, bound together by a few stalks 
 of moss and bits of lichen, and had an internal diameter of 
 one inch. 
 
 The other species to which we alluded above was first 
 observed by our illustrious navigator Cook, on the barren 
 shores of Nootka Sound. It is the ruff-necked humming- 
 bird {Trochilus collaris of Latham, and the Trochilus rufus 
 of Gmelin). It is a superb species, and ranges to the 
 southward at least as far as the table-land of Mexico, near 
 Real del Monte; from which locality specimens are pre- 
 served in the unrivalled collection of Mr. Loddiges. It 
 was traced by Kotzebue along the Pacific shores as far as 
 the sixty-first parallel. • The migration of birds has in 
 every age afforded a subject of pleasing speculation to the 
 admirers of the never-ending wonders of the natural world ; 
 but in no instance does it more freely excite our admiration 
 than when manifested by creatures so frail, and fantastically 
 attired in hues 
 
 " Which make the rose's blush of beauty pale, 
 And dim the rich geranium's scarlet blaze." 
 
 Of the long-winged and most aerial of the feathered 
 race, the swallow tribe, many beautifbl species inhabit 
 America. We shall here notice only the white-fronted or 
 cliff-swallow {Hirundo lunifrons of Say), discovered near 
 the Rocky Mountains by Major Long. It was seen in great 
 numbers by Sir John Franklin's party in 1820, while travel- 
 ling from Cumberland House to Fort Entdrpriae. Its clus- 
 tered nests are frequent on the faces of the rocky cliffs of 
 the Barren Grounds, and a number of them made their first 
 appearance at Fort Chipewyan on the 25th of June, 1825, 
 and immediately built their nests under the eaves of the 
 dwelling-house, which are not more than six feet above a 
 balcony that extended the whole length of the building, and 
 was a constant promenade. " They had thus to graze the 
 heads of the passengers on entering their nests, and were 
 moreover exposed to the curiosity and depredations of the 
 children, to whom they were novelties : yet they preferred 
 
BIRDS. 
 
 293 
 
 the dwelling-house to the more lofty eaves of the store- 
 houses, and in the following season returned with aug- 
 mented numbers to the same spot. Fort Chipewyan has 
 existed for many years, and trading-posts, though far dis- 
 tant from each other, have been established in the fur-coun- 
 tries for a century and a half; yet this, as far as I could 
 learn, is the first instance of this species of swallow placing 
 itself under the protection of man within the widely-ex- 
 tended lands north of the Great Lakes.* What cause 
 could have thus suddenly called into action that confidence 
 in the human race with which the Framer of the Universe 
 has endowed this species, in common with others of the 
 swallow tribe ]"! This species is very widely distributed. 
 It was transmitted to Professor Jameson from India some 
 years ago by the Marchioness of Hastings. 
 
 Passing over the goat-suckers (genus Capriinulgus)j 
 which are frequent and numerous in the northern regions 
 of America, we may here record the name of the belted 
 king-fisher {Alcedo alcyon^ Linn.) as the sole representative 
 in the fur-countries of a tribe very widely diffused over all 
 the known regions of the earth. It is a bird of passage, 
 and winters as far south as the West Indies, although it 
 also occurs in Georgia and the Floridas during that season. 
 
 A more numerous and much more important family of 
 birds (in America) are the TetraonidcB or grouse. Nearly 
 a dozen species inhabit the fur-countries, and of these the 
 largest and most remarkable is the pheasant-tailed grouse 
 or cock of the plains (Tetrao urophasianiisy Bon.). The 
 flight of this bird, Mr. Douglas informs us, is slow and un- 
 steady, and affords but little amusement to the sportsman. 
 Its wings are small, and but feebly feathered in proportion 
 to the size of the bird, which measures from thirty-two to 
 thirty-four inches in length, and weighs from six to eight 
 pounds. Though it may be said to represent the capercailzie 
 
 1 
 
 w. 
 
 * The late governor, De Witt Clinton, has given a very interesting 
 history of the closely-resembling species, H.fulvay which about sixteen 
 years ago began to build its nests on the walls of houses in the Western 
 States, and has every succeeding summer been advancing farther to the 
 eastward. Vide Ann. Lye, New-York, vol. i. p. 156. * 
 
 t Fitma BoreaU-Amerieana, vol. ii. p. 831. 
 
 Bb2 
 
 tv- 
 
 11 f il 
 
 Jii 
 
294 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 or wood-)Errouse (T. uroirallus) in the New World, it differs 
 in tliis respect, that it never perches. Its flesh is dark- 
 coluurcd, and not particuhirly good in point of flavour.* 
 
 We shall close our account of American land-birds, com- 
 monly so called, by a reference to the passenger-pigeon 
 {Columba migratoria). It may be presumed to be suffi- 
 ciently common in America, from a fact, or rather a calcu- 
 lation, given by Alexander Wilson. He estimated a flock 
 which continued to pass above him for the greater part of a 
 day to have been a mile in breadth and 240 miles in length, 
 and to have contained (three birds being assigned to every 
 square yard) at least two thousand two hundred and thirty 
 millions, two hundred and seventy-two thousand pigeons If 
 Mr. Audubon confirms his predecessor's account by a nar- 
 rative still mor^ extraordinary,} and adds, that as every 
 pigeon consumes fully half a pint of food (chiefly mast), 
 the quantity necessary for supplying his flock must have 
 amounted to eight millions seven hundred and twelve thou- 
 sand bushels per day ! — an expensive doocot. 
 
 Of the order of waders (Grallatores) none winter in the 
 fur-countries. They generally arrive about the end of 
 April and beginning of May, and are driven southwards in 
 autumn by the advance of winter, and its hardening influ- 
 ence upon the moist grounds and swampy shores, from 
 which these long-legged gentry draw their principal support. 
 We shall rest satisfied by furnishing a list of their names 
 in the note below. ^ 
 
 * For the history and description of the other American grouse, con- 
 sult Mr. David Douglas's paper in the 16th volume of the Linn. Trans.; 
 Professor Jameson's edition of the American Ornithology, vol. ii. p. 314, 
 and vol. iv. p. 189,325; the second volume of the Fauna Boreali-Ameri- 
 cana, p. 342 ; and my own " Illustrations of Zoology," vol. i. plates 20, 
 27, 30, 31, and corresponding letter-press. 
 
 t See vol. ii. p. 299. 
 
 X See his interesting history of the passenger-pigeon in the first 
 volume of the " Ornithological Biography," p. 319-326. 
 
 ^ The sanderling {CeUidris arenaria, lUiger); American ringplover 
 {Charadrius semipcdmatus, Bonap.); kildeer-plover (Ch. vociferus, 
 Linn.); golden-plover (CA. pluvialis, Linn.?); gray lapwing (Fane//u« 
 melanogaster, Bechst.) ; turnstone {Strepsilits interpres, 111.) ; whoop- 
 ing-crane {Grus Americana, Temm.) ; hrown crane (6. Canadensis, 
 Temm.); great heron (Ardea Herodias, Linn.); American bittern, 
 (Ardea lentiginosa, Mont,); American avoset {Recurvirostra Ameri- 
 
^ 
 
 U in the first 
 
 r>lRDS. 
 
 295 
 
 Of the still more extensive order of Nafatorrft^ or web- 
 footed swimniinjT-birds {}*al mi pedes), we shall present only 
 a few brief notices. Birds of this order are fully more re- 
 markable for the texture than the tints of their plumage, 
 although several species of the duck tribe are likewise dis- 
 tinguished by considerable brilliancy of colour. Destined 
 to inhabit the seashore, and the bnnks of lakes and rivers, 
 they are much exposed to the inclemencies of the weather, 
 and their feathers are providentially rendered very close and 
 compact, and abundantly imbued with an oily secretion, 
 through which they become impermeable by moisture. 
 This beautiful provision, as I have elsewhere observed,* is 
 more indispensable to the economy of the Palmipedes than 
 to any other order, as many of them are strictly oceanic, be- 
 ing sometimes found 500 leagues from land, and conse- 
 quently having no other place of repose, either by night or 
 by day, than the surface of the " injurious sea." In addi- 
 tion to an abundant plumage, the truly aquatic kinds, such 
 as ducks and divers, are furnished with a close, and, in some 
 instances, very valuable down, which preserves them from 
 the effects of cold and moisture, and is afterward used in 
 the formation of their nests on the arrival of the genial 
 season. With the exception of ducks and mergansers, no 
 very marked distinction prevails between the plumage of the 
 
 rana, Lino.); long-billed curlew {Numenius longirostris, Wils.); 
 Hudsonian curlew (N. Hudsonicus, I,ath.); Esquimaux curlew (JV. 
 boreaUs, Lath); Douglas' sandpiper {Tringa Dovglasii, Swains.), a 
 new species not uncommon in the Air countries as high as the sixtieth 
 parallel; slendershanks sandpiper (T. himaiitopus, Bonap.?); semi- 
 palmated sandpiper {T. semipalfnata, Wils,); purple sandpiper (T. 
 maritima, Brunn.); dunlin (T. alpina, Penn.); Schintz's sandpiper (T. 
 Schimiiy Brehm.); pigmy sandpiper (T. minuta, Leisler); diminutive 
 sandpiper {T.jmsilla, Wils.); knot (T. cinerea, Linn.); semipalmated 
 tatler (Totanus semipalmatvs, Temm.) ; tell-tale (T. vociferus, Sabine) ; 
 yellow-shanks tatler (T. Jlavipes,\'\%\\\oi)\ red-shank or gambet (T. 
 calidris, Bechst.); Bartram's tatler {T. Bartramius, Temm.) ; white- 
 tailed tatler (T. ochropus, Temm.); green-rump tatler (T. chlnropygiug, 
 Vieill.); great-marbled godwit {Limosa fedoa, Vieill.); Hudsonian god- 
 wit (L. Hvdsonica, Swains.); New- York godwit (Scolopax Novobo- 
 racensisy Wils.); Drummond's snipe {Sc, Drummondii, Swains.); 
 Wilson's snipe (Sc. Wilsonii, Temm.); yellow-breasted rail (Kallus 
 Novoboracensis, Bonap.); Carolina rail {R. Carolinus, Bonap.); Ameri> 
 can coot (Fulica Americana, Gmel.) ; Wilson's phalarope (Pft, Wilsonii, 
 Sab.) ; hyperborean phalarope (PA. hyperboreus, Lath.) ; nat-billed pha- 
 larope {Ph.fulicarius, Bonap.). 
 * Illustrations of Zoologj', \ol. i., introductory letter-press to plate 3. 
 
 il. 
 
 5> 
 
 I 
 
 
 ill 
 
 V' 
 
 
 ! 
 
296 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 sexes. The youn^r diflfur conxiderubly from the adults, and 
 seldom attain tlic perfect plumugo till the lapse of one or 
 two seasons. 
 
 North America produces several grebes (genus Podicepa) 
 and sea-swallows (Sfcrna). About a dozrn different kinds 
 of gull (Larua) inhabit both the barren shores and inland 
 swamps of the fur-cuuntries. A beautiful species called 
 the fork-tailed gull {Larus Sabinii) is here represented. 
 
 This bird was discovered by Captain Edward Sabine on 
 a group of three low rocky islands, about twenty miles 
 from the mainland, off the west coast of Greenland. 
 " They flew with impetuosity towards persons approaching 
 their nests and young ; and when one bird of a pair was 
 killed, its mate, though separately fired at, continued on 
 wing close to the spot where it lay."* The fork-tailed or 
 Sabine gull is one of the most elegant of the genus. Its 
 colours, though sufficiently contrasted for variety and liveli- 
 ness of effect, are finely harmonized. The colour of the 
 head assumes a considerable variety of appearances, accord- 
 ing to the direction and degree of light in which it is 
 examined ; — a tinge of black, brown, blue, or purple, 
 seeming alternately suffused over the deep lead colour 
 which forms the prevailing tone by which the parts are 
 usually characterized. There appears to be no difference 
 in the plumage of the sexes, but the female is rather less 
 in size. A solitary example of this species was met in 
 Prince Regent's Inlet during Sir Edward Parry's first 
 voyage, and in the course of the second voyage many 
 were obtained on Melville Peninsula. They arrive in high 
 northern latitudes in June, and take their departure south- 
 wards as early as the month of August. 
 
 As an example of the northern ducks, we shall confine 
 ourselves to the Kocky Mountain golden-eye ( Clangula Bar- 
 rovif Rich, and Swains.), a species distinguished from our 
 common golden-eye by the head and upper portion of the 
 neck being of a pansy-purple colour, with a large crescent- 
 shaped spot of white before each eye. The white speculum 
 of the wing is separated from a band of the same colour on 
 the coverts by a black stripe. It is dedicated to Mr. Barrow 
 of the Admiralty, our chief promoter of those important 
 
 * Linn. Trans, vol. xii. p. 50S. 
 
'i ^1 
 
 i 
 
 L 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 1 • 
 
 
 4' 1 
 
 
 ■1 
 
 
 'ii< 
 
# 
 
 "i 
 
BIRDS. 
 
 299 
 
 geographical discoveries, from the successful conduct of 
 which such essential benefits have resulted to zoological 
 science. 
 
 It appears that the swan lately discovered, or at least 
 identified as new to the records of British ornithology, and 
 described by Mr. Yarrell* under the name of Bewick's swan 
 (Cygnus Bewickii), is an inhabitant of the seacoast within 
 the Arctic circle of America. It is much later in its north- 
 ern migratory movements than its congener the trumpeter- 
 swan (C. buccinator). According to Lewis and Clarke., it 
 winters near the mouth of the Columbia. Its nest is de- 
 scribed by Captain Lyon (than whom few describe in a more 
 agreeable manner) as built in a peat-moss, and being 
 nearly six feet long, ' four and three-quarters wide, two 
 feet high exteriorly, and with a cavity in the inside of a 
 foot and a half in diameter. The eggs were brownish- 
 white, clouded with a darker tint. A more common species 
 of swan in the interior of the fur-countries is the trumpeter 
 above named. The great bulk of th3 skins imported by 
 the Hudson's Bay Company pertain to this species. 
 
 The white pelican {Pel. onocrotalus) is frequent in the 
 fur-countries as high as the sixty-first parallel. It haunts 
 eddies beneath cascades, and destroys a great quantity of 
 carp and other 6sh. 
 
 The great northern diver (Colymbus glacialis) is met 
 with in considerable numbers in all the lakes of the interior, 
 though seldom observed either in Hudson's Bay or along 
 the shores of the Arctic Sea. It flies heavily, but swims 
 with .great swiftness. The black-throated species ( C. Arc- 
 ticus)f on the other hand, though common on the coasts of 
 Hudson's Bay, more rarely makes its way into the hiterior. 
 Most of the guillemot tribe ( Uria troilet Brunnichiij grylle^ 
 and alle) frequent the Arctic seas of America. 
 
 We shall here close our account of the feathered races 
 of these northern regions. 
 
 * Linn. Trans, vol. xvi. p. 446. 
 
 % 
 
 I 
 
 %' 
 
 \i: 
 
 
 
 
 (f 
 
 ^. 
 
 M 
 
 
300 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Some Account of the Fishes and other Zoological Productions 
 of the Northern Regions of America. 
 
 Sturgeon— Salmon— Trout— Char— Capelan— White Fish— Blue Fish- 
 Herring— Pike— Burbot— Perch— Bull-head— Northern Insects— Their 
 Natural Preservation from Cold— More Northern' Extension orTropical 
 Forms in America than in Europe— Bees— Extension Westwards of 
 the Honey-bee— Diptera-Melville Island Spider— Butterflies. 
 
 * 
 
 The fishes of the northern regions are of great import- 
 ance as articles of food in countries where a nutritious 
 diet is by no means easy to obtain ; and where, as we have 
 seen in the course of our historical disquisition, tripe de 
 roche, burnt bones, and fur-jackets are too frequently the 
 sorry substitutes for better fare. We shall mention a few 
 of the characteristic kinds. 
 
 A species of sturgeon called sterlet {Accipenser Rulhe- 
 nus) abounds in the Saskatchawan. The fishery at Cumber- 
 land House is most productive during the spring and summer. 
 This is a much smaller species than the A. huso. An in- 
 dividual weighing 60 pounds is considered large. 
 
 The Coppermine River salmon {Salmo Hemii) is shaped 
 like a common salmon, with a somewhat larger head. Its 
 size is inferior to that of the 'British salmon. It is cap- 
 tured ia great quantities in the leap at Bloody Fall, on the 
 Coppermine, in the months of July and August. Many 
 varieties of trout also occur in the lakes and rivers of the 
 northern parts of America ; but as the kinds which fre- 
 quent our own otherwise well known streams are still 
 vaguely indicated by naturalists, the reader need not wonder 
 that we have little definite information to communicate 
 regarding those of such far distant lands. The Indians do 
 not appear to designate their trouts by specific appellations, 
 but use a general term ; the Crees call them nammcecoosy 
 the Chipewyans thlooeesinneh^ and the Esquimaux (Brkallook. 
 The vividness of their spots and markings seems to vary 
 with the season ; and the colour and consequent condition 
 
FISHES. 
 
 301 
 
 of the flesh are likewise liable to change. They attain at 
 times to an enormous size ; Dr. Richardson frequently ob- 
 served trouts weighing 40 pounds. In Manito or God's 
 Lake, they are reported to attain the size of 90 pounds. A 
 species nearly allied to the char {S. alpinus), but with the 
 tail more forked, and a blunter snout, was taken in a lake 
 in Melville Island. 
 
 The capelan or lodde ( <S. Grccnlandicus) was observed in 
 large shoals along the shallow shores of Bathurst's Inlet. 
 The white fish (Corego7ius albus) is named ihlooaek by the 
 Copper Indians, and titlameg by the traders. It varies in 
 weight from three to .eight pounds, and sometimes attains 
 even a much greater size. It abounds in every lake and river 
 of the American arctic regions, and forms a most delicious 
 food, being eaten without satiety as almost the sole article 
 of diet at some of the trading-posts for a series of years. 
 Back's grayling (C. signifcr) is the poisson bleu of the fur* 
 dealers. This beautiful fish prefers the strong rapids, and 
 rises eagerly at the artificial fly. It was found during the 
 first expedition only in the clear rivers to the northward of 
 Great Slave Lake, and measures about 16 inches exclu- 
 sive of the caudal fin. The common herring {Clupea Ha* 
 rengus) was caught in Bathurst Inlet early in the month of 
 August ; and pike (Esox lacius ?) are common in all the 
 lakes. The burbot {Gadus lota) is likewise a frequent fish 
 in every lake and river. It preys indiscriminately on what- 
 ever other species it is able to swallow, and in the spring its 
 stomach is generally crammed with cray-fish to such a degree 
 as to distort the shape of its own body.* It is little prized as 
 food. There is a kind of perch, suflSciently common about 
 Cumberland House, which resembles our common perch in 
 shape, but at the same time dififers in several respects from 
 the European specie^. Its length to the caudal fin is about 
 19 inches. A peculiar cottus (C.polarisy Sabine), similar 
 in its habits to C. gobia^ was found to occur abundantly on 
 the shores of North Georgia in pools of water left by the 
 ebbing of the tide. The largest were not more than two 
 inches long.t The six-horned bull-head (C. hexacornis\ 
 is also frequent in the Arctic seas.t 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, p. 724. 
 t Supplement to the Appendix to Parry's First Voyage, p. 213. 
 X For some notices of shells and other invertebrate animals or th« 
 
 Co 
 
 w 
 
 f 
 
 l»l 
 
 ,:s 
 
 % 
 
 
 a : 
 
302 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 11 
 
 We have little to say of the insects of the northern re- 
 gions. Cold is in general adverse to the production and 
 increase of insect life, and even temperate climates are 
 much less productive than tropical and equatorial regions, 
 in relation to those tiny tribes. It is probable, however, 
 that the distribution of many northern species is still un- 
 known. It was formerly supposed that in Iceland there 
 were none, and that even in Norway there were very few, 
 and their absence from those countries was attributed to ex- 
 cess of cold. Horrebow contradicted this opinion in regard 
 to Iceland, although Dr. Hooker, in his interesting " Recol- 
 lections" of a tour in that island, states that he met with 
 few,* yet Olafsen and Provalsen, during their residence 
 there, collected 200 different species in one small valley.t 
 
 Otho Fabricius resided six years in Greenland, and col- 
 lected only 63 species of the insect class properly so called.^ 
 In the still higher latitude of Winter Harbour, where Sir 
 Edward Parry sojourned, only six species of insects were 
 collected from the beginning of the month of September 
 till the August following. In Greenland, according to Mr. 
 Kirby, every order of insect has its representatives, except 
 Orthoptera and Hemiptera ; but in Melville Island, besides 
 these deficiencies, neither coleopterous nor neuropterous 
 species were observed ; and even the mosquito, that shrill 
 tyrant of the Lapland plains, appears to have ceased {torn 
 troubling along those hyperborean shores. It must, how- 
 ever, be borne in mind, that insects can escape the extremes 
 of cold, not only, as Mr. Macleay observes, by passing cer- 
 tain periods in the pupa or torpid state, but also by being 
 while in that state usually buried in the earth, where they 
 are but slightly sensible even of the most extreme rigour 
 of winter. " What they chiefly require is the presence of 
 heat during some period of their existence ; and the greater, 
 within certain limits, is the heat, the more active will be 
 their vital principle. On the American continent the ex- 
 tremes of heat and cold in the course of the year are, as is 
 well known, incomparably greater than in places of the 
 
 ; k 
 
 Arctic Regions, consult the SappTement above named. See also a List 
 of Zoopliytes by Dr. Fleming, in the Appendix to Captain Parry'a 
 Second Voyage to the Arctic Regions. 
 
 * First edition, p. 272. f Voyage en Islande., t. L 
 
 % Fauna Grcenmndica. 
 
loTthem re- 
 duction and 
 jlimates are 
 rial regions, 
 [e, however, 
 I is still un- 
 celantl there 
 ;re very few, 
 ibuted to ex- 
 ion in regard 
 ting " Recol- 
 he met with 
 eir residence 
 lall valley, t 
 and, and col- 
 rly so called.t 
 ir, where Sir 
 insects were 
 of September 
 ording to Mr. 
 atives, except 
 iland, besides 
 neuropterous 
 ito, that shrill 
 e ceased from 
 :t must, how- 
 I the extremes 
 y passing cer- 
 also by being 
 h, where they 
 xtreme rigour 
 le presence of 
 ad the greater, 
 active will be 
 itinent the ex- 
 year are, as is 
 places of the 
 
 , See also a List 
 Captain Parry'a 
 
 en Islaude^ t. L 
 
 INSECTS. 
 
 303 
 
 same latitude in Europe. We may, therefore, readily 
 conceive how families of insects will inhabit a wider range 
 of latitude in the former country than in the latter. We 
 see also how insects may swarm in the very coldest climatos, 
 such as Lapland and Spitzbergen, where the short summer 
 can boast of extraordinary rises in the thermometer ; be- 
 cause the energy of the vital principle in such animals is, 
 within certain limits, proportionate to the degree of warmth 
 to which they may be subjected, and escapes in a manner 
 the severe action of cold."* It is on the above principles 
 also that Mr. Macleay accounts for what certainly at first 
 seems an extraordinary circumstance in the geography of 
 insects ; namely, that their tropical structure extends much 
 farther north in America than in Europe, — that is, in a 
 manner directly the reverse of that which has been noted 
 by botanists to occur in the vegetable kingdom. When we 
 examine Copris carnifeXy Cctonia nitiduy Rutela Q-punctata^ 
 and other insects from the neighbourhood of New-York, 
 and compare them with species of the same families from 
 Brazil, we shall find their difference of structure infinitely 
 less than that which would result from a comparison of the 
 entomological productions of the environs of Madrid with 
 those of the banks of the Congo. 
 
 Mr. Macleay admits, that although in his opinion the in- 
 sect tribes suffer less in cold climates than plants, it does 
 not therefore follow that the prevalence of cold has no effect 
 in relation to the destruction or prevention of insect life. 
 In truth, the diminution of the number of species becomes 
 very conspicuous as we advance towards the poles. But 
 this the learned author of the Hora Entomologica supposes 
 to be owing rather to the short continuance of the summer 
 warmth, than to the lowness of its existing degree. In ac- 
 cordance with this view we certainly find that many insects, 
 such as gnats, mosquitoes, &c. which pass their larva state 
 in water, — thus avoiding the extremest cold, and whose ex- 
 istence in the perfect state being naturally ephemeral, must, 
 therefore, suffer little from the shortness of summer, — are 
 nowhere more troublesome than among the moors and 
 marshes of the north. On the other hand, the number of 
 coleopterous species, which, being naturally longer lived, 
 
 * Horse Entomologies, part i. p. 45. 
 
 fJ5 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 ¥ 
 
 
\ 
 
 r' 
 
 804 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 require a greater continuance of warmth, is sensibly dimin- 
 ished amid those dreary wastes.^ 
 
 Several specimens of a species of caterpillar were found 
 in Melville Island. They occurred in the vicinity of Salix 
 Arctica and Saxifraga oppositi/oliaj and a new moth {Bombyx 
 SahinU K.) was found in a swampy part of the island. The 
 honey-bee {Apis mellifica) is supposed to be not an indige- 
 nous but an imported species in America. Our land expe- 
 ditions did not observe its occurrence to the north of Canada. 
 The Americans have now settled the Missouri, as far as 
 the 95th meridian, and it is probable that the New-England 
 men, in their journeys westward, carried hives along with 
 them. According to Mr. Warden, the honey-bee was not 
 found to the westward of the Mississippi prior to the year 
 1797; but it is now well known, and has been so for a 
 considerable time, as high up the Missouri as the Maha 
 nation ; having proceeded westward 600 miles in fourteen 
 years.t Such a distance seems great for these tiny crea- 
 tures to advance by the ordinary process of swarming, even 
 supposing that the flight of the new colonies was invariably 
 in a western direction. It is at the rate of 43 miles a-year ; 
 but they have, perhaps, been smitten by the Yankee pas- 
 sion of settling beyond the clearings.^ A wild bee {Apis 
 alpiruii Fah. Bombus Arcticusy K.) of a black colour, with the 
 base and apex of the thorax and the anterior half of the ab- 
 domen pale yellow, is very common within the Arctic Cir- 
 cle.^ " Scarcely any genus of the insect creation has so 
 large a range as this of Bombus. It is found in the Old 
 World and in the New, — and from the limits of phsenoga- 
 mous vegetation to the equator ; but its metropolis appears 
 to be within the temperate zone. The range of the species 
 in question seems limited by the Arctic Circle, and to go 
 from Greenland only westward, for it does not appear to 
 
 * Horae EntomologicsB, part i. p. 46. 
 
 t Statistical, Political, and Historical Account of the United Statet.^ 
 of America, vol. iii. p. 139. 
 
 t Dr. Richardson lately informed me, that in the course of his north* 
 em journey, he saw some bees in very high latitudes resembling our 
 common bumblebee, but that he did not at the time ascertain the exact 
 species, and the circumstances under which ho was then placed nnfor- 
 tunately prevented his preserving specimens of the softer inserts. 
 
 ^ The insect above alluded to is a distinct species fVom uis Apia 
 alpina of Linn., which is black, with the upper side of the abdomen, 
 all but the base, covered with ferruginous hair. 
 
INSECTS. 
 
 305 
 
 United State>.i 
 
 have been seen in Lapland or Iceland,* or other eastern 
 parts of that circle."t 
 
 Of the dipterous tribes we shall here mention only the 
 Chironomus polaris of Kirby. The body is of a deep black, 
 somewhat hairy. The antennae are plumose. The wings 
 are rather shorter than the body, of a milky hue, with pris- 
 matic reflections, and the marginal nervures black. The 
 abdomen is slender and hairy. This species seems allied 
 to the Tipulu stercoraria of De Geer, but exceeds it by 
 twice the size. Along with Ctcnophora Parrii it may be 
 said to replace the Culices or gnats which prove so trouble- 
 some to navigators and travellers up to a certain high lati- 
 tude. The species of the genus Chironomus^ more espe- 
 cially, are often seen in our own country dancing in the 
 sunbeams even during the depth of winter, when Culex is 
 benumbed ; and it was therefore to be expected, a priori^ 
 that the former would occupy a higher range, and approach 
 nearer the pole than the latter. On the last day of Cap- 
 tain Parry's attempt to reach the North Pole over the ice, a 
 species of Aphis was found in lat. 82° 26' 44", about 100 
 miles from the nearest known land.t This may be con- 
 sidered as the extreme northern boundary of insect life. 
 
 A small spider was seen in great abundance in Melville 
 Island, running on the ground, as well as on various plants, 
 and leaping when alarmed. Mr. Kirby had an opportunity 
 of examining only a single specimen, which was so defec- 
 tive from injury that he could not name with certainty the 
 genus to which it belonged ; but from its leaping propen- 
 sities it was inferred to belong to Salticus of Latreille. 
 To whatever genus it pertains, the specific name of Mel- 
 villensis is now bestowed upon it. 
 
 Mr. Scoresby brought a few insects from the east coast 
 of West Greenland. Among these were two butterflies, 
 Papilio palanoj Linn. {Faun. suec. 1041), and Papilio diUf 
 Linn. (Fab. Mant. ins. ii. p. 61, n. 681). Both of these 
 were enumerated for the first time as productions of Green- 
 land in the account of his voyage ; for the only butterfly 
 
 * Hooker's Recollections of Iceland, 1st edition, p. 34. 
 t Supplement to the Appendix to Captain Parry's First Voyage, 
 p. 217. 
 t Narrative of an Attempt to reach the North Pole in Boats, 
 
 Cc2 
 
 i 
 
 n g 
 
 4; 
 
 ^' 
 
 n 
 
306 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ■1 
 
 ;h 
 
 rr 
 
 met with on either coast by Fabricius was the Papilio Tullia 
 of Muller.* 
 
 The entomology of the northern portions of the mainland 
 of America is as yet known only through a few vague and 
 superficial notices, from which we can deduce no positive re- 
 sults, and with which we therefore deem it unnecessary to 
 trouble the reader. We expect ere long a valuable contri- 
 bution on the subject from the skilful pen of Mr. Kirby.f 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Characteristic Features in the Botany of the Northern Regions 
 
 of America. 
 
 Mr. Brown's Observations on the relative Proportions of the two great 
 Divisions orPhseinogamous Plants— Beautiftil small Willow from East 
 Greenland— Notices of the more remarkable Species collected by Dr. 
 Richardson— Galium Tinetorium— Cornus Alba— Phlox Hoodii — Vi- 
 burnum Edule — Azalea Nudicaulis— Lilium Philadelphiciim— Epilo- 
 bium AngusUrolium — Ledum latifolium— L. Palustre— Prunus Virgi- 
 niana— Pyrus Ovalis— Crepis Nana— Cineraria Congesta—Pinus Nigra 
 — P. Alba— P. Banksiana — P. Microcarpa — L. Lambertiana — Emp«- 
 trum Nigrum— Myrica Gale— Populus Trepida — Populus Balsamifera 
 — Juniperus Prostrata— Splachnum Mnioides— Dicranum Elongatum 
 — Gyrophora proboscidea — Hyperborea Pennsylvanica, Mecklenbergii, 
 vellea— Cetraria Richardsonii— Fucus Ceranoides— Difficulties in tha 
 Determination of Arctic Species— Plants recently introduced to the 
 British Gardens— Lathyrus Decaphyllus — Eutoca Franklinii — Lupinus 
 Littoralia— Clarkia Puchella— Gerard ia Capitata~New Dodecatheon 
 — ^Andromeda Tetragona-^Menziesia Empetrifolia— Azalea Lapponica 
 — Dryas Drummondia. 
 
 Although, as a subject of scientific and philosophical in- 
 vestigation, botany yields in interest to none of the other 
 branches of natural history, and although a great poet and 
 profound observer of nature has asserted that 
 
 '< To him the meanest flower that blows can give 
 Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears," 
 
 ♦ Scoresby's Journal of a Voyage to the Northern Whale-Fishery, p. 424. 
 
 T The third volume of Dr. Richardson's Fauna Boreali-Americana^ 
 now in preparation, will contain a few notices of Serpents, a descrip- 
 tion of the Fisbes, aa account of the Insects (by Mr. Kirby), and a list 
 ofTestacea. 
 
 »'* 
 
 *• 
 
PLANTS. 
 
 307 
 
 pilio Tullia 
 
 le mainland 
 J vague and 
 positive re- 
 lecessary to 
 lable contri- 
 •. Kirby.t 
 
 kern Regions 
 
 the two great 
 illow from East 
 :ollected by Dr. 
 ox Hoodii— VI- 
 phicum— Epilo- 
 — Prunus Virgi- 
 ta—Pinu8 Nigra 
 ertiana — Empe- 
 |U8 Balsamifera 
 m Elongatum 
 VIecklenbergii, 
 ifflcultiea in the 
 troduced to the 
 klinii— Lupinus 
 w Dodecatheon 
 zalea Lapponica 
 
 osophical in- 
 of the other 
 eat poet and 
 
 Fishery, p. 424. 
 
 ali-Americana, 
 
 lents, a descrip- 
 
 rby), and a Urt 
 
 yet, owing to the extension which we have assigned to v 
 zoological department, our space we fear will scarcely suffice 
 for more than a cursory sketch, even with the total exclusion 
 of all lachrymose afTection. Several of our best botanists 
 have, of late years, devoted a portion of their attention to the 
 floraof the Northern Regions of America; but the- subject 
 has as yet made little progress beyond the indispensable pre- 
 liminary of coi'rect, though probably not yet completed, 
 catalogues of certain districts. From these it is scarcely 
 possible at present to select any such general features as 
 would interest the majority of our readers ; but we shall in 
 the mean while indicate the sources from which those who 
 incline to investigate this branch of science may derive the 
 most ample and accurate information. 
 
 A list of plants, collected in Melville Island by the officers 
 of the first Polar voyage, has been published by Mr. Brown, 
 with characters and descriptions of the new species.* This 
 account was made up from the herbaria of Captain Sabine, 
 Mr. Edwards, Mr. James Ross, Captain Parry, Mr. Fisher, 
 and Mr. Beverley, whose names are here given in the order 
 of the extent of their collections. Great difficulty was ex- 
 perienced by Mr. Brown in determining many of the species, 
 either from their extremely variable character or the incom- 
 plete condition of the specimens, and occasionally also from 
 the want of authentic individuals of an identical or analogous 
 nature from other countries, with which the recent acqui- 
 sitions might be compared. The plan originally followed 
 by the great Scotch botanist in the preparation of his list 
 was more extensive than that finally executed. It included 
 remarks on the state and relative proportions of the primary 
 divisions and natural orders to which these northern plants 
 pertained — a comparison of that hyperborean vegetation 
 with the productions of nearly similar climates — and obser- 
 vations on the range of such species as were ascertained to 
 be common to Melville Island and other parts of the world. 
 Towards the completion of that plan he had rnade consider- 
 able progress ; but he found eventually that to have satis- 
 factorily developed some of the subjects just named, would 
 not only have required more time than he had then in his 
 
 * Supplement to the Appendix to Captain Parry's First Voyage, 
 London, 1824. 
 
 I' 
 
308 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 
 i ¥ 
 
 power to bestow, but also a more ample stock of materials 
 than was at that period within his reach. If then so skilful 
 an observer was unable to exhibit any general views on the 
 subject, we hold ourselves to stand excused for their absence 
 from this department of our present publication. In the list 
 referred* to the reader will find descriptions of several new or 
 imperfectly-known genera and species, with admirable illus- 
 trative engravings from the unrivalled pencil of Mr. Bauer. 
 In Mr. Brown's earliest observations on the interesting 
 subject of the relative proportions oi' the two primary divi- 
 sions of phffinogamous plants, he had arrived at the conclu- 
 sion, that from 4.5° as far as 60°, or perhaps 65° of north 
 latitude, the proportion of dicotyledonous to monocotyledo- 
 nous plants gradually diminished.* From a subsequent 
 consideration, however, of the list of Greenland plants given 
 by Professor Geisecke,t as well as from what he had bton 
 able elsewhere to collect, regarding the vegetation of alpine 
 regions, he had supposed it not improbable that in still 
 higher latitudes, and at corresponding heights above the 
 level of the sea, the relative numbers of these two divisions 
 were again inverted ;t — in the list of Greenland plants just 
 referred to, dicotyledones being to monocotyledones as four 
 to one, or in nearly the equinoctial ratio ; and in the vege- 
 tation of Spitzbergen, as far as it could be jvdged of from 
 the materials hitherto collected, the proportion of dicotyle- 
 dones appearing to be still further increased. This inver- 
 sion in the cases now mentioned was found to depend at 
 least as much on the reduction of the proportion of grarai- 
 nesB, as on the increase of certain dicotyledonous families, 
 especially saxifrageae and cruciferae. " The flora of Mel- 
 ville Island, however, which, as far as relates to the two pri- 
 mary divisions of phtenogaraous plants, is probably as much 
 to be depended on as any local catalogue hitherto published, 
 leads to very different conclusions — -dicotyledones being in 
 the present list to monocotyledones as five to two, or in as 
 low a ratio as has been anywhere yet observed ; while 
 the proportion of grasses, instead of being reduced, is nearly 
 double what has been found in any other part of the world 
 
 ♦ Flinders' Voyage, ii. p. 538. 
 
 t Article Greenland, in Brewster's Encyclopedia, 
 
 j Tuckey's Congo, p. 423. 
 
 i- 
 
PLANTS. 
 
 309 
 
 (see Humboldt in Diet, des Sciences Nat. torn. IS, tabic at 
 p. 416), — this family furniing onc-iiflh of the whole phteno- 
 gamous vegetation."* 
 
 Prior to the publication of the list, from the prefatory 
 remarks to which the preceding is an extract, a short cata- 
 logue of plants collected on the east coast of Greenland 
 was published by Mr. Scorcsby, with some remarks by Dr. 
 Hooker.f The female catkins of a willow, allied to Salix 
 arcnaria of Smith, are described as extremely beautiful, 
 owing to the fme contrast between their almost black scales 
 and the pure silky whiteness of their gcrmens. This was 
 the only arborous plant met with by Mr. Scoresby. Its 
 mode of growth was singular ; for although it expanded to 
 the extent of several feet, it so accommodated itself to the 
 nature of that chilly climate, or was so acted upon by its 
 ungenial influence, that it only spread laterally, and was 
 never observed to rise higher than two or three inches from 
 the ground.^ 
 
 In the same year with the preceding, the narrative of 
 Sir John Franklin's first journey, already so often referred 
 to, made its appearance. The appendix to that volume 
 (No. vii. p. 729) contains a list of North American plants 
 by Dr. Richardson, which, however, is not given as con- 
 taining any thing like a full catalogue of the flora of the 
 district through which the expedition travelled. During 
 their summer journeys only a small portion of time could 
 be allotted to botanical researches, and the constant and 
 more important duties of the officers prevented their aiding 
 the doctor at all times in the collection of specimens as 
 sedulously as they inclined to do. Under unavoidable cir- 
 cumstances of a very harassing nature, a large proportion 
 of plants may well be supposed to have escaped their notice ; 
 and the disastrous incidents attending their homeward 
 journey across the Barren Grounds, from the shores of 
 the Arctic Sea, forced them to leave behind the entire col- 
 
 * Supplement of the Appendix to Captain Parry's First Voyage, 
 p. 262. 
 
 t Journal of a Voyage to the Northern Whale-fishery, Appendix, No 
 ii. p. 410. 
 
 I In connexion with the last-named work the reader may also consult 
 a Catalogue of Plants collected by William Jameson, Esq., surgeon, on 
 the west coast of Greenland, drawn up by Dr. Greville, and published 
 in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Society, vol. ill. p. 426. 
 
 ■I: 
 f 
 
 i: 
 
 ; ■ 
 
 n 
 
 s'i 
 
 \\ 
 
 
 * ^ 
 
 )•,' f 
 
 ill! 
 
 ^i 
 
 ii 
 
 ( n 
 
 ,1 
 
310 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 R 
 
 ll 
 
 {■» 
 
 
 l-'\ 
 
 IcctionB formed during tho summer of 1821, with tho excep- 
 tion of a few specimens collected on tho bankH of tho Cop- 
 permine Hivcr, nnd which }md previously been intrusted 
 to Mr. Wentzel's care. Professor Schwrogrichen, when 
 in London, named tho musci, and Dr. Hooker undertook 
 the examination of the lichenes and fungi. Nothing more 
 need be said to stamp a high value on those portions of 
 the catalogue. 
 
 This list contains (besides a few specimens described in 
 the addenda by Mr. Brown) above 660 species. These are 
 referable to various classes in the following numerical pro- 
 portions : — 
 
 Amount of ipeclet. 
 
 Monandrta 3 
 
 Diandria 5 
 
 Triandria 31 
 
 Tetraiulria 9 
 
 rutitandriu 51 
 
 Iloxandria 23 
 
 HnptHiulria 1 
 
 Octandria II 
 
 Deeandria • • . ^ 38 
 
 Uodecandria 1 
 
 Icosandria 20 
 
 Polyandria 24 
 
 Dydynaniia 15 
 
 Tetrady uatuia 23 
 
 Amount of ipeciet. 
 
 Monodclphia 1 
 
 Diadelphia 23 
 
 Syngenesia 52 
 
 Gynandria 8 
 
 iMontecia 30 
 
 Di.Tcia 24 
 
 Cryptoeamia, 
 
 Filices 19 
 
 Musci 73 
 
 IlepaticsB 16 
 
 Lichenes 121 
 
 Fungi 19 
 
 Algu: 5 
 
 We shall briefly notice a few species, remarkable for their 
 economic or other uses. The juice of the Galium tincforium 
 is used indiscriminately with that of G. boreale^ by the 
 women of the Cree nation, for the purpose of dying their 
 porcupine quills. The lead-coloured fruit of Cornus alba 
 are called bear-berries (musqua-meena) by the Crees, be- 
 cause the bear is known to feed and fatten on them. A 
 new species of phlox was discovered by the expedition, and 
 named Phlox HoodiU " as a small tribute," Dr. Richardson 
 informs us, " to the memory of my lamented friend and 
 companion, whose genius, had his life been spared, would 
 have raised him to a conspicuous station in his profession, 
 and rendered him an ornament to any science to which ho 
 might have chosen to direct his attention." This beautiful 
 plant is a striking ornament to the plains in the neighbour- 
 hood of Carlton House, where it forms large patches, con- 
 spicuous from a distance. The red berries of the Viburnum 
 
tLAS'tS. 
 
 311 
 
 the excep- 
 >f the Cop- 
 n intrusted 
 
 ;hen, wl»e»* 
 • undertook 
 jthing more 
 portions of 
 
 Jescribet^ in 
 
 These are 
 
 mcrical pro- 
 
 Amount of ipeciM. 
 
 1 
 
 "" 23 
 
 ■*; 52 
 
 ■•" 8 
 
 " 39 
 
 ;; 24 
 
 19 
 
 •• 73 
 
 • 16 
 
 ■ 121 
 
 19 
 
 •• 5 
 
 :able for their 
 urn tinctorium 
 jreale^ by the 
 [of dying their 
 'f Cormis alba 
 lg Crees, be- 
 on them. A 
 [xpedition, and 
 Sr. Richardson 
 [ed friend and 
 spared, would 
 fiis profession, 
 e to which he 
 [This beautiful 
 the neighbour- 
 patches, con- 
 the Viburnum 
 
 edrdtt named winter-berries by the Crecs, were observed to 
 bo highly ornumontal to th« woods. The bruised bark of 
 the root of Azalra nndirivilis is nppliod by the Indians to 
 rccen^ wounds. The Lilii/m Phil add pfucnrti is called 
 mouse-root by ihe Crees, bfcause the common mouse of 
 their country (a species of campa^nol) is known to feed 
 upon its scaly bulbs. The Canadian voyagers use the 
 young shoots of Epilnhium anrjufstifdlium as a pot-herb, ui; 
 der the name Uhcrbc fret. The Ledum latifcliumy some- 
 times used as tea, is named kawkee-kee-pucquaw (ever- 
 grt!en, or always leaves), and also maska^g or medicine, be- 
 cause the natives think that the white residents drink its 
 infusion as a medicine. The Ledum palufttrey according to 
 Dr. Richardson, forms a better substitute for tea than the 
 plant just named. 
 
 The Prunus Virginiana grows to be a handsome small 
 tree, rising on the sandy plains of the Saskatchjxwan to the 
 height of twenty feet, and extending as far north as GSreat 
 Slave Lake, where, however, it attains the height of only 
 five feet. Its fruit, known under the name of choke-cherry, 
 is not very edible in the recent state, but forms a desirable 
 addition to pemmican when dried and bruised. The Pyrus 
 ovalis of Pursh is a common plant as far north as hit. 62°, 
 and abounds in the plains of the Saskatchawan. Its wood 
 is greatly esteemed by the Crees, for the formation of ar- 
 rows and pipe-stems ; it is hence called bois de jliche by the 
 Canadian voyagers. Its berritis, about the size of a pea, 
 are the finest fruit in the country, and are used by the 
 Crees under the name of Messasscootoommcona, both fresh 
 and dried. They make excellent puddings. 
 
 Among the Syngenesious plants we shall signalize only 
 two examples. The Crepis nana^ a singular species, ap- 
 pears to have been noticed by the land-expedition only on 
 the banks of the Coppermine River. The polar voyagers 
 collected it in Repulse Bay, Five Hawser Bay, and Lyon 
 Inlet. 
 
 The Cineraria congesta^ described by Mr. Brown,* varies 
 from three to seven inches in height. The leaves are some- 
 times merely undulated, at other tirw^t furnished with long, 
 spreading, sharp, unequal, tooth-like processes. Generally 
 
 * Appendix to Parry'o First Voyage, p. 279. 
 
 \ . 
 
 i 
 
 
'*-mi 
 
 V 
 
 312 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 the flowers are collected into a remarkably compact head \ 
 but in two specimens examined by Dr. Hooker,* several of 
 the flower-stalks spriig singly from the axils of the leaves 
 up the whole length of the stem ; in which case they are 
 mostly single-flowered, truncated, and leafy ; but always 
 clothed, in common with the involucre, by a beautiful long 
 and dense silky wool, by which character this species ap- 
 pears to be principally distinguished from C. palustris. 
 Specimens of this plant were gathered by Dr. Richardson 
 in Bathurst Inlet, on the shore of the Arctic Sea, on the 
 25th of July. According to Mr. Edwards, the individuals 
 in Captain Parry's collection, which have elongated flower- 
 stalks, were drawn out by having been made to grow on 
 board ship ; at least he has seen such treatment produce 
 precisely that effect ; and he adds that in its native place of 
 growth he never observed the plant otherwise than remark- 
 ably dense and crowded in its inflorescence. 
 
 The black American spruce (Pinus nigra^ Lamb.) ia 
 found in swampy situations as far north as lat. 65°, where it 
 terminates along with the Betula papyracea. The white 
 American spruce (P. alba. Lamb.) is mentioned by Dr. 
 Richardson as the most northern tree which came under his 
 observation. " On the Coppermine River, within twenty 
 miles of the Arctic Sea, it attains the height of twenty feet 
 or more. Its timber is in common use throughout the coun- 
 try, and its slender roots, denominated Watapeh, are indis- 
 pensable to canoe-makers for sewing the slips of birch-bark 
 together. The resin which it exudes is used for paying 
 over the seams of the canoes ; and canoes for temporary 
 purposes are frequently formed of its own bark. It is the 
 only tree that the Esquimaux of the Arctic Sea have access 
 to while growing, and they contrive to make pretty strong 
 bows by joining pieces of its wood together."! The Scrub 
 or gray pine {Pinus Banksiana^ Lamb.), in dry sandy soils, 
 prevails to the exclusion of all others. It is a handsome 
 tree with long, spreading, flexible branches, generally fur- 
 nished with whorled curved cones of many years' growth. 
 It attains the height of forty feet and upwards in favourable 
 ntuaiions ; but the diameter of its trunk is greater in pro- 
 
 * Appendix to Parry's First Voyage, p. 397. 
 t Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, p. 759. 
 
 \\ i 
 
M^i 
 
 PLANTS, 
 
 313 
 
 ipact head? 
 * several of 
 F the leaves 
 ise they are 
 but always 
 lautiful long 
 ; species ap- 
 :?. palustns. 
 , Richardson 
 ; Sea, on the 
 le individuals 
 gated flower- 
 i to grow on 
 nent produce 
 ative place of 
 than remark- 
 
 ■a, Lamb.) w 
 . 65°, where it 
 I. The white 
 tioned by Dr. 
 ;ame under his 
 within twenty 
 of twenty feet 
 hout the coun- 
 peh, are indis- 
 ; of birch-bark 
 led for paying 
 for temporary 
 ark. It is the 
 ea have access 
 pretty strong 
 t The Scrub 
 Iry sandy soils, 
 ,s a handsome 
 generally fur- 
 years' growth. 
 Is in favourable 
 reater in pto- 
 
 Ip. 759. 
 
 portion to its height than that of the other pines of the 
 country. It exudes less resin than P. alha. The Canada 
 porcupine feeds upon its bark ; and its wood, from its light- 
 ness and the straightness and toughness of its fibres, is 
 highly prized as canoe timbers. It was observed on the 
 route of the overland expedition as far north as lat. 64° ; 
 but on the sandy banks of the Mackenzie it is said to attain 
 to a still higher latitude.* The American larch (P. micro- 
 carpay Lamb.) was observed in swampy situations from York 
 Factory to Point Lake, in lat. 65°. It was, however, of 
 dwarfish growth in the last-named locality, seldom exceed- 
 ing the height of six or eight feet. 
 
 One of the most magnificent of the newly-discovered 
 forest-trees of North America is Lambert's pine (Pimis 
 Lambertiana, Douglas). Its principal localities are probably 
 to the south of the districts with which we are here more 
 especially interested ; but as its northern boundaries are 
 not yet known, and as it forms in itself so fine a feature in 
 this department of botany, we cannot leave it altogether 
 unnoticed. It covers large districts in Northern California, 
 about a hundred miles from the ocean, in lat. 43° north, 
 and extends as far south as 4°. It grows sparingly upon 
 low hills, and the undulating country east of a range of 
 mountains, running in a south-western direction from the 
 Rocky Mountains towards the sea, where the soil consists 
 entirely of pure sand. It forms no dense forests like most 
 of the other pines of North America, but is seen scattered 
 singly over the plains, more after the manner of Finns 
 resinosa. The trunk of this gigantic tree attains a height 
 of from 150 to upwards of 250 feet, varying from twenty 
 to nearly sixty feet in circumference ; — thus far exceeding 
 
 " The tallest pine 
 Hewn on Norwegian hills to be the mast 
 Of some great ammiral." 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, p. 752— This is the only 
 American species that makes any approach in habit and appearance to 
 the Pinus sylvestris, commonly called the Scotch fir. A distinguished 
 writer in the Quarterly Review ascribed the deterioration of our planta- 
 tions of the last-named tree to the circumstance of our nurserymen find- 
 ing it cheaper to import cones from Canada, than to pay for gathering 
 them in Braemar,— a charge, however, from which the trade must be 
 fully and freely acquitted, as the Pinus sylvestris does not in fact exist 
 ill America. 
 
 Dd 
 
 *-". 
 
 C 
 
 Ut 
 
 ■ If 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 \\\ 
 

 ■ f 
 
 I 
 
 314 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 The stem is remarkably straight, and is destitute of 
 branches for about two-thirds of its height. The bark is 
 uncommonly smooth for such large timber ; of a light-brown 
 colour on the south, and bleached on the north side. The 
 branches are rather pendulous, and form an open pyramidal 
 head, with that appearance which is peculiar to the abies 
 tribe. The leaves are rigid, from four to five inches long, 
 of a bright green colour, and grow in fives. The cones are 
 pendulous from the extremities of the branches, and when 
 ripe measure about eleven inches in circumference at the 
 thickest part, and from twelve to sixteen inches in length. 
 The scales are lax, rounded, and destitute of spines. The 
 seeds are large, eight lines long and four broad, of an oval 
 form. Their kernel is sweet and of a pleasant taste. The 
 timber is white, soft, and light. It abounds in turpentine 
 reservoirs ; its specific gravity is 0*463 ; and the whole tree 
 produces an abundance of amber-coloured resin. That 
 which exudes from the tree when it is partly burned loses 
 its usual flavour, and acquires a sweet taste, in which state 
 it is used by the natives as sugar, being mixed with their 
 food.* The seeds also are eaten when roasted, and they 
 are likewise pounded into coarse cakes and stored for winter 
 use.+ 
 
 Numerous species of willow occur in the Northern Re- 
 gions of America, — they are not yet well defined. The 
 
 * Mr. David Douglas, in Linn. Trans., vol. xv., and Edin. New Phil. 
 Jour. vol. V. p. 401. 
 
 t We trusi that our accomplished correspondent, Dr. Traill, of Liver- 
 pool, will excuse our making the following extract from one of his 
 private letters. " Have you seen Douglas? I was greatly pleased with 
 his intelligence and modesty. He gave me a most irteresting sketch of 
 his travels beyond the Rocky Mountains, and a simple but appalling 
 account of the privations of a traveller in that part of the New World. 
 The contrast between the vegetation of the western and eastern sides of 
 the chain is striking. The variety of oaks, juglandes, and elms, inter- 
 si)ers^d with magnolias and rhododendrons, form the striking peculiari- 
 ties of the eastern, — but beyond the mountains only one species of oak 
 is found, while neither elms, juglandes, nor magnolias occur, and only a 
 single rhododendron. It is, however, the favourite haunt of the giant-pine. 
 He had measured several more than 250 feet high,— he saw some still 
 taller, and took the circumference of a stem denuded of its bark, which 
 was forty-eight feet in circumference, and at 190 feet from its base still 
 bore a circumference of four and a half feet. The annual rings on one 
 stem were ascertained to be nine hundred.^* 
 
 ^ 
 
lestitute of 
 The bark is 
 light-brown 
 L side. The 
 m pyramidal 
 to the abies 
 inches long, 
 he cones are 
 >s, and when 
 Ejrence at the 
 les in length, 
 jpines. The 
 J, of an oval 
 ; taste. The 
 in turpentine 
 he whole tree 
 resin. That 
 r burned loses 
 n which state 
 :ed with their 
 3ted, and they 
 »red for winter 
 
 Northern Re- 
 iefined. The 
 
 Edin. New Phil. 
 
 Traill, of Llver- 
 from one of his 
 ally pleased with 
 •esting sketch of 
 )le but appalling 
 the New World, 
 eastern sides of 
 and elms, inter- 
 jtriking peculiari- 
 le species of oak 
 occur, and only a 
 of the giant-pine. 
 le saw some still 
 if its bark, which 
 from its base still 
 ual rings o» on« 
 
 PLANTS. 
 
 315 
 
 plant which yields the whortleberry {Empctrnm nigrum) is 
 valuable in these inhospitable rogions. Its fruit, after the 
 first frosts, is juicy and very pleasant ; it is much sought 
 after and carefully hoarded by the different kinds of mar- 
 mot, and forms the autumnal food of th.at species of duck 
 called Anas hyperborea. The Indian women use the buds 
 of Myrica gale to die their porcupine quills. The Ameri- 
 can trembling poplar (Po/)?//m5 trepicla) occurs from Hudson's 
 Bay as far to the northward of Great Slave Lake as lat. 
 64°. It is found to burn better in a green state than any 
 other tree of the country. The form of the leaf-stalk in 
 this species is highly curious, and beautifully accords with, 
 and accounts for, its continual motion, — the upper part be- 
 ing rounded, and suddenly, at its junction with the leaf, 
 becoming so thin and flat as to have scarcely sufficient 
 strength to support it. The balsam poplar (P. balsamifera) 
 may be said to grow to a greater circumference than any 
 other species in these northern regions. Although it bums 
 badly when green, and gives little heat, its ashes yield a 
 great quantity of potash. It was traced as far north as 
 Great Slave Lake, and the south branch of the Mackenzie 
 has been named Rividre aux Liards, from its frequent preva- 
 lence in that quarter. Great part of the drift-timber ob- 
 served on the shores of the Arctic Sea belongs to this spe- 
 cies of tree. It is called ugly poplar (matheh-meetoos) by 
 the Crees. 
 
 The fruit of the common juniper is known under the 
 appellation of crowberry to the last-named nation ; and an- 
 other species of that plant, of almost equal frequency (Jm- 
 niperus prostrata\ grows close to the ground, and sends out 
 flageliform branches two yards long. 
 
 Of the Musci we shall here mention the Splachnum 
 mnioideSy which is very common on the Barren Grounds, 
 where it forms little tufts, the roots of which are found 
 always to include the bones of some small animal. Di- 
 cranum elongatum likewise occurs on those desolate districts 
 where, with other species of the genus, it forms dense 
 tufts very troublesome to pedestrians. These are called 
 " women's heads" by the Indians, " because," say the latter, 
 " when you kick them, they do not get out of the way ;"— 
 a fine commentary on a life of unsophisticated nature, and a 
 
 
 -V = 
 
 
 u. 
 
 < 
 
 i 
 
 
 ' '1 
 
 7* 
 
^3f^ 
 
 ^£^ 
 
 ♦ i 
 
 » ♦ 
 
 II 
 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 316 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 beautiful illustration of the refined ideas which prevail in 
 countries 
 
 " Where wild in woods the noble savage runs." 
 
 Of the Lichenes, of which there are many species in 
 these northern countries, we shall name a few examples. 
 Gyrophora proboscidea is found on rocks on the Barren 
 Grounds, and is more abundant towards the Arctic Sea 
 than G. hyperborea. These two species, in common with 
 G. Pennsylvanica and Mecklenhergii^ were found in greater 
 or less abundance in almost all rocky places throughout the 
 northern portions of the over-land journey. They were all 
 four used as food ; but as our travellers had not the means 
 of extracting the bitter principle from them, they proved in- 
 jurious to several of the party by inducing severe bowel- 
 complaints. The Indians reject them all except G. Meek' 
 lenbcrgiii which, when boiled along with fish-roe or other 
 animal matter, is agreeable and nutritious. The last-named 
 lichen is, however, rather scarce on the Barren Grounds ; 
 and Dr. Richardson and his companions were obliged to re- 
 sort to the other three, which, though they served the pur- 
 pose of allaying the appetite, were found to be very ineffi- 
 cient in restoring or recruiting strength. The G. vellea is 
 characteristic of moist and shady rocks, and is consequently 
 most luxuriant in woods. It forms a pleasanter food than 
 any of the species we have named ; but it unfortunately 
 occurs but sparingly on the Barren Grounds, where its 
 presence would be most desirable. A new plant named 
 Cetrari ^ Richardsonii by Dr. Hooker, was found on these 
 grounds generally in the tracks of the reindeer. It did 
 not appear to occur to the southward of the Great Slave 
 Lake. About a score of fungi were picked up by our sci- 
 entific travellers. Exclusive of a conferva, and the frag- 
 ment of a floridea, the Fucus cerariQides was the only alga 
 observed in the Arctic seas.* 
 
 The Appendix to Captain Parry's second voyage was 
 published in 1825, and contains, among other highly-prized 
 contributions, a botanical Appendix by Dr. Hooker. When 
 the extent of the collections examined by that accomplished 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, p. 703. 
 
PLANTS. 
 
 317 
 
 ich prevail in 
 
 ns." 
 
 my species in 
 few examples. 
 »n the Barren 
 le Arctic Sea 
 common with 
 und in greater 
 throughout the 
 They were all 
 not the mea,ns 
 they proved in- 
 severe bowel- 
 xcept G. Meek- 
 sh-roe or other 
 The last-named 
 rren Grounds; 
 re obliged to re- 
 served the pur- 
 ,0 be very ineffi- 
 'he G. vellea is 
 is consequently 
 nter food than 
 t unfortunately 
 nds, where its 
 IV plant named 
 found on these 
 ndeer. It did 
 ,e Great Slave 
 up by our sci- 
 and the frag- 
 is the only alga 
 
 Id voyage was 
 tr highly-prized 
 looker. When 
 [t accomplished 
 
 k 763. 
 
 botanist is consideredt a greater accession of new species 
 might have been expected than actually occurred ; but this 
 is perhaps to be explained by the circumstance of the coun- 
 tries explored during the second voyage being as it were 
 intermediate between those previously examined, — Melville 
 Island being to the north, and the continental portion of 
 America, bordering the Arctic Sea, lying to the south of the 
 districts to which we at present more immediately refer. 
 This, in the opinion of Dr. Hooker, diminished the probability 
 of the occurrence of many new species. In point of mere 
 number, however, the second collections very considerably 
 exceeded those of the preceding voyage, — and this may be 
 explained partly by the more southern latitude in which the 
 plants were gathered, and partly by the length of time 
 spent in those districts. Dr. Hooker conceives that, as an 
 illustration of the botanical productions of a region extend- 
 ing from between lat. 62° to 70° north, his catalogue may 
 be regarded as tolerably complete. The variety of crypto- 
 gamia is particularly great, and the herbaria were in such 
 admirable order as to reflect the highest credit on the skill 
 
 I and assiduity of the gentlemen by whom they were collected 
 
 ' and preserved. 
 
 " It may not be amiss," Dr. Hooker observes, " to notice 
 here the extreme difficulty which attends the determination 
 of what ought and what ought not to be considered as good 
 species among Arctic plants. Vegetables of our own more 
 southern latitudes often assume, in those frigid regions, an 
 aspect quite diflferent from what we are accustomed to see 
 them wear ; and which, without referring to a very extensive 
 series of specimens, might well be supposed to afford de- 
 cided marks of specific distinction. Mr. Brown seems to be 
 fully aware of this, and he speaks with caution of the 
 identity of several of his new species. In more than one 
 instance, after having drawn out a description of a supposed 
 new individual, I have found cause to alter my opinion con- 
 cerning it, and finally to consider it only as a variety of a well- 
 known kind ; nor shall I be surprised if future observations 
 should show that my Saxifra^ra plantaginifolia must be 
 united to »S. nivalis, and my Chrysanthemum grandijlorum 
 to C. inodorum, though at first sight nothing can appear 
 more distinct."* 
 
 * Appendix to Parry's Second Voyage to the Arctic Regions, p. 369. 
 
 Dd2 
 
 
 ■ ■ 'A 
 
 \% 
 
318 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 V 
 
 h 
 
 r . 
 
 n 
 
 We shall conclude this branch of the subject by a few 
 miscellaneous notices of recently-discovered species. 
 
 The ten- leaved everlasting pea {Lathy rus decaphyllus) 
 was found on the banks of the Saskatchawan by Dr. Rich- 
 ardson and Mr. Drummond. It is adorned by fine heads of 
 flowers, of a bright red colour before expansion, but which 
 become purple as they open. This is an exceedingly 
 ornamental plant, measuring about three feet in height. It 
 was first raised in this country by Mr. Patrick Neill, of 
 Canonmills, a gentleman well known for his encouragement 
 of horticulture, and for his general attainments in many 
 branches of natural science. 
 
 Franklin's eutoca (Eutoca Franklinii).* This interest- 
 ing annual was discovered by Dr. Richardson during the 
 first over-land expedition. It was found growing in abun- 
 dance among trees that had been destroyed by fire, on the 
 banks of the Missinnippi, and was named by Mr. Brown 
 in honour of the leader of the gallant band.f It has now 
 become well known in our gardens, the seeds collected 
 during the second expedition having been pretty generally 
 distributed. It is a hardy plant, which recomme ids itself 
 to notice by the profusion of its bright blue-coloured blost 
 soms.t 
 
 The seashore lupin (Lupinus littoralis).^ This orna« 
 mental and hardy perennial was discovered by Mr. Douglas, 
 who found it " growing abundantly on the seashore of 
 North-west America, from Cape Mendocino to Puget'a 
 Sound. Its tough branching roots are serviceable in bind- 
 ing together the loose sand, and they are also used by the 
 natives of the river Columbia as winter food, being pre- 
 pared by the simple process of drawing them through the 
 fire until all their moisture is dissipated. The roots are 
 theii tied up in small bundles, and will keep for several 
 months ; when eaten, they are roasted on the embers, and 
 become farinaceous. The vernacular name of this plant is 
 Somtiuchtan ; and it is the liquorice spoken of by Lewis and 
 Clarke, and by the navigators who have visited the north- 
 west coast of America. 
 
 * Botanical Magazine, t. 2985. 
 
 T Addenda to Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, d. 764. and 
 tab. 27. '» r I 
 
 t Dr. Hooker, in Bot. Mag. ( ibid. t. 2059. 
 
PLANTS. 
 
 319 
 
 We may add that Mr. Douglas has enriched our gardens 
 by upwards of ten new species of this fine genus. 
 
 Beautiful Clarkia {Clarkia pulchclla).* This hardy an- 
 nual deserves its specific name, as it is really one of the 
 most beautiful which has been recently introduced into our 
 gardens. It was first discovered by Mr. Lewis on the 
 Kooskoosky and Clarke Rivers, but was afterward found by 
 Mr. Douglas extending from the great falls of the Columbia 
 to the Rocky Mountains, and seeds were forwarded by him 
 to the London Horticultural Society. The flowers are 
 generally of a fine lilac colour, but a pure white varieiy is 
 also known. 
 
 Mr. Douglas discovered in the northern parts of America, 
 and introduced into the British gardens, about fifteen new 
 species of Pentstemon, all of which are ornamental, and 
 many exceedingly beautiful herbaceous plants. To the 
 same intelligent and indefatigable collector we are also in- 
 debted for several fine species of CEnothera or tree primrose. 
 We owe to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Drummond the in- 
 troduction to our gardens of the following species : — viz. 
 Gerardia capitata^ a handsome perennial ; an apparently 
 new species of Dodecatheoriy which has flowered this sum- 
 mer in the Edinburgh Botanic Garden ; Andromeda tetra- 
 gonaj Menziesia empetrifolia^ Azalea Lapponica (three very 
 beautiful- small shrubby plants), and Dry as Drummondiu 
 The last-named plant bears yellow flowers. Of the other 
 two known species of the genus, one of which is a native 
 of the mountains of Scotland, the flowers are white. 
 
 I 
 
 \ ^•^- 
 
 I* ». 
 
 * Dr. Hooker, in Bot. Mag. t. 2918. 
 
320 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ! 
 
 f 
 
 ;# 
 
 4 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Sketch of the Geological Features of some of the Northern 
 
 Districts of America. 
 
 Frozen Subsoil of Hudson's Bay — Primitive Rocks of Hayes River — 
 Hill River— Borders of Knee Lake — Remarkable Rock-island of Mag- 
 netic Iron Ore — Lake Winipeg— Limestone District— Fort Chipewyan 
 — Carp Lake— Gneiss Formation of the Barren Grounds — Transparent 
 Waters of Great Bear Lake— Fort Franklin— Bear Lake River- Lig- 
 nite Formation of Mackenzie River — Spontaneous Fire — Pipe Clay — 
 Alluvial Islands at the Mouth of the Mackenzie — Copi»er Mountains — 
 Coppermine River — Islands of the Arctic Sea — Arctic Shore — Cape 
 Barrow — Galena Point — Moore's Bay — Bankes' Peninsula — Barry's 
 Island— Cape Croker— Point Turnagain— General Occurrence of the 
 New Red Sand-Stone- Hood's River — Wilberforce Falls— Gneiss For- 
 mation—General Summary. 
 
 The great extent of country traversed by our over-land 
 adventurers, the dreary continuance of that universal snow, 
 which so long rendered the surface of the earth in many 
 places almost inaccessible, the frequent journeys in canoes, 
 and the difficulties which almost perpetually prevailed in 
 the way of transporting weighty articles, prevented a com- 
 plete or very satisfactory knowledge being obtained of the 
 geological structure of the Northern Regions of America.* 
 For the reasons stated below, we shall here confine our 
 observations to certain restricted districts in those regions. 
 
 Between the fifty-sixth and fifty-eighth parallels the west- 
 ern shores of Hudson's Bay are extremely flat, and the 
 depth of water decreases very gradually on approaching 
 
 *In the fourteenth volume of the Family Library, entitled "Nar- 
 rative of Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas and Regions," the 
 reader will find a chapter on Arctic Geology by Professor Jameson, in 
 which the characteristic formations of Cherie Island, Jan Mayen's Island, 
 Spitzbersen, Old Greenland, and the various insular and continental 
 sliores explored by the expeditions under Ca|itains Ross and Parry, are 
 described and commented on. So far, therefore, as regards many of the 
 great North-eastern regions of America, we beg to refer the reader to 
 Professor Jameson's skilful summary. See also observations on the 
 Rock Specimens collected during the First Polar Voyage, by Charles 
 Konig, Esq. Supplement to the Appendix, p. 247, 
 
 'V 
 
 1 if 
 
GEOLOGY. 
 
 321 
 
 le Northern 
 
 [ayes River— 
 sland of Mag- 
 rt Chipewyan 
 —Transparent 
 [e River- Lig- 
 -Pipe Clay— 
 r Mountains — 
 Shore— Cape 
 isula— Barry's 
 iirrence of the 
 J— Gneiss For- 
 
 ur over-land 
 versal snow, 
 th in many 
 s in canoes, 
 prevailed in 
 snted a com- 
 lined of the 
 f America.* 
 confine our 
 se regions, 
 els the west- 
 at, and the 
 pproaching 
 
 Entitled "Nar- 
 
 [ Regions," the 
 
 ir Jameson, in 
 
 |layen's Island, 
 
 id continental 
 
 ind Parry, are 
 
 Is many of the 
 
 I the reader to 
 
 Irations on the 
 
 1%, by Charles 
 
 them. Dr. Richardson states that in seven fathoms of 
 water the tops of the trees are just visible from a ship*s 
 deck. Large boulder-stones are scattered over the beach, 
 and sometimes form shoals as far as five miles from shore. 
 These are, of course, troublesome and dangerous to boats. 
 Hayes and Nelson Rivers enter Hudson's Bay about the 
 central portion of this quarter. They are separated on 
 reaching the coast merely by a low alluvial point of land, 
 on which York Factory is stationed. A low and uniformly 
 swampy aspect characterizes the surrounding country and 
 the banks of Hayes River at least for fifty miles inland. 
 The upper soil presents a thin strtitum of half-decayed 
 mosses, immediately under which we find a thick bed of 
 tenacious and somewhat slaty bluish clay containing boulder- 
 stones. Forests, consisting chiefly of spruces, larches, and 
 poplars, occur, but the individual trees, except under local 
 circumstances of a favourable nature, are of a small size. 
 
 The subsoil is generally frozen, and as it consequently 
 retains a great deal of the surface-water, swamps of sphagna 
 and other mosses are always being formed ; but the bright 
 summer days, though long, are few, and as vegetation thus 
 decays but slowly, little peat occurs. During a favourable 
 season the ground thaws to the depth of about four feet ; 
 but there still remains, it is said, a frozen bed of ten or 
 eleven feet, beneath which we find loose sand. As the 
 earth is not thus permanently frozen in the interior countries 
 of North America, the ungenial condition of the soil about 
 York Factory ought probably to be attributed to the neigh- 
 bourhood of the sea, which is too much encumbered with 
 ice during winter to mitigate the severity of those naturally 
 frost-bound regions, and being laden along shore with 
 numerous icebergs and other insulated masses, even to the 
 middle of August, must of course diminish the intensity of 
 the summer heat.^ 
 
 The boulder-stones just mentioned show that there occur 
 in the district of Hayes River several primitive rocks, such 
 as red granite, hornblende rock, gneiss, and syenite ; of the 
 transition class, graywacke ; and of the secondary class, red 
 sandstone, belonging probably to the new red sandstone 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey to the Shores of the Polar 
 fiea, p. 490. 
 
 r fl 
 
 if 
 
 
 
 !. 
 
 ,s 
 
 i 
 
 ( 
 

 322 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 ) 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 % 
 
 
 % , 
 
 I ■ 
 
 ii 
 
 formation, in which is included the rothegende and varie- 
 gated sandstone. Two kinds of limestone likewise occur 
 in this district. 
 
 The banks of Steel River, the principal branch of the 
 Hayes, present the same general characters as those of the 
 stream into which it flows. The same may be said of Fox 
 and Hill Rivers, the union of which forms the Steel River. 
 However, on the lower parts of Hill River the banks are 
 more varied in their outlines, and rising more precipitately 
 and from a narrow channel, they attain to an elevation of 
 nearly 200 feet. About a mile below the Rock Portage, 
 that is, about 100 milei^ from the sea, rocks first occur in 
 situ. They consist of ^^neiss, and rise in the channel of 
 the river from beneath lofty banks of clay. This gneiss 
 formation seems to extend to Lake Winipeg, am' contains 
 subordinate bods and veins of granite, and beds of horn- 
 blende rock, and mica-slate. At the Swampy Portage a bed 
 of red felspar occurs. It contains small grains of epidote, 
 and at the Upper Portage hornblende-slate was observed^ 
 alternating with gray gneiss, slightly intermingled with 
 hornblende, together with beds of quartz rock containing 
 precious garnets. At the Lower Portage on Jack River 
 (the name of Hill River after crossing Swampy Lake) a red 
 granite occurs. The rocks on Jack River are low, with a 
 very spare covering of soil ; the woods are thin, and the 
 surrouuding country flat. The borders of Knee Lake pre- 
 sent similar characters ; but in one spot which was examined 
 on account of its exhibiting a more luxuriant growth of 
 trees, the soil was still thin, but the subjacent rock con- 
 sisted of primitive greenstone, with disseminated iron 
 pyrites. " About half a mile from the bend or knee of the 
 lake," says Sir John Franklin, "there is a small rocky 
 island, composed of magnetic iron ore, which affects the 
 magnetic needle at a considerable distance. Having re- 
 ceived previous information respecting this circumstance, 
 we watched our compasses carefully, and perceived that they 
 were affected at the distance of three hundred yards, both 
 o;i the approach to and departure from the rock : on de- 
 creasing the distance they became gradually more and more 
 unsteady, and on landing they were rendered useless ; and 
 it was evident that the general magnetic influence was 
 totally overpowered by the local attraction of the ore. 
 
GEOLOGY. 
 
 323 
 
 and varie- 
 mse occur 
 
 nch of the 
 tio8e of the 
 BaidofFox 
 Bteel River. 
 ,e banks are 
 precipitately 
 slevation of 
 ,ck Portage, 
 rst occur m 
 . channel of 
 This gneiss 
 anc^ contains 
 ,eds of horn- 
 Portage abed 
 IS of epidote, 
 vas observed* 
 mingled with 
 ,ck containing 
 ,n Jack River 
 py Lake) a red 
 re low, with a 
 thin, and the 
 nee Lake pre- 
 was examined 
 ant growth of 
 :.ent rock con- 
 eminated iron 
 or knee of the 
 i small rocky 
 ich affects the 
 Having re- 
 _ circumstance, 
 ceived that they 
 ^red yards, both 
 [e rock : on de- 
 more and more 
 id useless; and 
 influence was 
 ,n of the ore. 
 
 Wlicn Kater's compass was hold near to the ground, on the 
 north-west sido of the island, the nnodle di[)petl so much 
 that the card could not be made to traverse by any iuljust- 
 jnent of the hand ; but on moving the same compass about 
 thirty yards to the west part of the islet, the needle became 
 horizontal, traversed freely, and pointed to the magnetic 
 north."* 
 
 Wc arc indebted to Sir Alexander Mackenzie for the 
 valuable observation, that the principal lakes in thr.se north- 
 ern quarters are interposed between the primitive rocks and 
 the secondary strata which lie to the westward of them. 
 Of this Lake Winipeg affords a good example. It is a long 
 narrow sheet of water, bounded on its eastern side by pri;ni- 
 tive rocks, which are mostly granitic, while horizontal lime- 
 stone strata form its more indented western shore. 
 
 The north shore of Lake Winipeg is formed into a 
 peninsula by Play-Green Lake and Limestone Bay. Steep 
 cliffs of clay are here prevalent, similar to those which pre- 
 ceded the gneiss in Hill River, but containing rather more 
 calcareous matter. The beach is composed of calcareous 
 sand, and i-agments of water-worn limestone, of which 
 there are two kinds ; the one yellowish-white, dull, with 
 conchoidal fracture and translucent edges ; the other bluish 
 and yellowish-gray, dull, with an earthy fracture and opaque. 
 D*. Richardson did not observe any rocks of the former kind 
 in situ in this neighbourhood, although cliffs of the latter 
 were apparent on the west side of Limestone Bay, and 
 continued to bound the lake as far as the mouth of the 
 Saskatchawan, and were reported to spread down the whole 
 of its western shore. 
 
 The extension of the limestone dcposites of Lake Winipeg, 
 in a westerly direction, has not been ascertained, but it has 
 been traced as far up the Saskatchawan as Carlton House, 
 where it is at least 280 miles in breadth. 
 
 This limestone extends over a vast tract of country, and 
 may in general be characterized as compact, splinty, and 
 yellowish-gray. It is very testaceous, and large portions 
 of it are entirely composed of bivalve shells. In the journey 
 up the Saskatchawan it was traced to the Neepewan, a dis- 
 tance of 300 miles, where it is either succeeded or covered 
 
 * Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, p. 36, 
 
 f 
 
 
 I* 
 
 -<• 
 
324 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 \i 
 
 i,> 
 
 ?i 
 
 ■* \ 
 
 t 
 
 A: 
 
 I 
 
 n 
 
 F 
 
 
 by cliffs of calcareous clay. It is probable that the limtf* 
 Btone formation not only ext(3nds over a vast portion of th0 
 plains, but also runs parallel to the Rocky Mountains as far 
 as Mackenzie River. Between it and the Rocky Mountains, 
 rocks of the coal formation occur ; and beds of burning coal 
 have been known for many years on the upper parts of the 
 Saskatchawan, as well as on the last-named river. One of 
 the most marked characteristics of the limestone formation 
 is the entire exclusion of foreign beds. It was never ob- 
 served in association with any other rock, except, perhaps, 
 on Elk River, where it appeared in contact with compact 
 earthy marl and slaggy mineral-pitch, or bituminous sand- 
 stone ; and on Coppermine River, where rolled fragments 
 , of a similar stone were found connected with layers of dark 
 flinty slate. Salt springs and lakes exist from twelve to 
 twenty miles to the northward of Carlton House. 
 
 In Athabasca Lake Sir John Franklin's party came again 
 upon the edge of the primitive formation. Fort Chipewyan 
 seemed to stand upon a granite rock, and a little to the 
 ^^ eastward a reddish granite is associated with gray gneiss. 
 Granite is the most abundant rock on Slave River ; but it 
 disappears about a mile and a half below the Portage des 
 Noyes, and the banks from thence to Slave Lake are allu' 
 vial. At the mouth of the Yellow Knife River, and in Lake 
 Prosperous, mica-slate prevailed ; and between Rocky and 
 Carp Lakes the granite contains many beds of mica-slate, 
 often passing into clay-slate. Here the country is tolerably 
 wooded, and white spruce occupy the rocky situations^ 
 Pinus Banksiana the sandy spots, and aspen the low moist 
 places.* 
 
 At Carp Lake the hills are of lower altitude, the valleys 
 are less fertile and have fewer trees, and these features 
 seem to characterize the commencement of the gneiss forma- 
 tion, which extends over the great district to the eastward 
 of the Coppermine River, termed by the Indians the Barren 
 Grounds. The soil is inimical to almost every species of 
 vegetation. The summits of the hills about Fort Enterprise 
 are composed of a durable red granite, and large masses 
 of tixe same substance are scattered over their surface. On 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey ta the Shores of the Tffim 
 Sea, p. 52vO. 
 
OEOLOOV. 
 
 325 
 
 nn nrm of Point Lnkr, forty-five niilos duo north of Fort 
 EnterpriHC, iIh; rooks beloiij; to the IrMiiHition class. The 
 light blue-coloured wuters of (irt'iit Uear I^ake are very 
 transparent, more especiiilly in the vicinity of the primitivo 
 mountains of M'Tavish Hiiy. A piece of white ra«T, when 
 sunk, did not disappear till it had descended to the depth of 
 fifteen fathonis. Tlu! surface of Hear Lake is not supposed 
 to be 200 feet above the Arctic Sen, and as its depth is much 
 greater than th it amount offset, its bottom mu^t ('(nisequentiy 
 be below the level of the sea.* At the mouth of L)( ase's 
 River, the hills are live or six hundred ft et hiuh, and are 
 composed principally, if not entirely, of dolomite, in hori- 
 zontal strata. The northern shores .:♦" Hear Lake are low, 
 and skirted by numerous shoals of limestone bouhlers. At 
 the foot of the Scented Grass Hill, a rivulet has made a 
 section to the depth of 100 feet, and there shaly beds are 
 seen interstr.ititied with thin layers of blackish-brown earthy- 
 looking limestone, containing selenite and pyrites, (j lobular 
 concretions of that stone, and of a poor clay iron-stone, also 
 occur in beds in the shale. The surfaces of the slate-clay 
 were covered by an efflorescence of alum and sulphur, and 
 many crystals of sulphate of iron lie at the bottom of the 
 clitf, and several layers of plumose alum, half an inch in 
 thickness, occur in the strata. At the base of Great Bear 
 Mountain, the bituminous shale is iuterslratified with slate- 
 clay, and Dr. Hichiirdson found imbedded in the former a 
 single piece of brown coal, in which the fibrous structure 
 of wood is apparent.! 
 
 On the northern shore of Keith Bay, about four miles 
 from Bear Lake River, stands Fort Franklin, upon a small 
 terrace, which is elevated about thirty feet above the lake. 
 The bottom of the bay, wherever distinguishable, was ob- 
 served to be sandy, and thickly strewed with rounded primi- 
 tive boulders of great size, which were particularly abun- 
 dant near the river, — ami the waters of the cape formed by 
 Scented Grass Hill were also strewed with large square 
 blocks of limestone. All these boulders must have been 
 carried from the parent rocks by a current flowing from the 
 
 * In M'Tavish Hay, near the shore of Great Slave I/ike, forty-five 
 fkthoms of line did not reach the bottom. Some of the great lakes ojT 
 Canada are supposed to descend 300 feet helow the " Ocean's brim." 
 
 t Appendix to Franklin's Second Journey, p. 6. 
 
 £a 
 
 / ■ J 
 
 Ftj 
 
 I 
 
*^ 
 
 329 
 
 NATURAL HISTORYr 
 
 east. Two varieties of granite which occur among thenv 
 were recognised as forming abundant rocks at Fort Enter- 
 prise, which lies about 170 miles south-east from M*Tavish 
 Bay. The soil in the vicinity of Fort Franklin is sandy or 
 gravelly, and covers to the depth of one or two feet a bed 
 of clay of unknown thickness. This clay continues firmly 
 frozen during the greater portion of the year, and the thaw 
 •eldom penetrates more than a couple of feet into the sur- 
 face of the earth. 
 
 Bear Lake River is about seventy miles long, from its 
 origin in the lake till it falls into the Mackenzie, and its 
 breadth is never less than 150 yards, except at the rapid. 
 Sections made by the river generally present sand or clay, 
 — the former probably proceeding from the disintegration 
 of a friable gray sandstone, which occasionally shows itself 
 in the more solid form. The walls of the rapid are about 
 three miles long, and 120 feet high. They are composed 
 of horizontal beds, the lower of which consist of an earthy- 
 looking stone, intermediate between slate-clay and sand- 
 stone, having interiorly a dull yellowish-gray colour. These 
 beds are separated by thin slaty layers, of a substance simi- 
 lar in appearance, but harder, which contain impressions 
 of ferns, and from the debris at the bottom of the cliff Dr. 
 Richardson gathered impressions of the bark of a tree 
 (lepidodendron) and some ammonites in a brown iron-shot 
 sandstone. These are regarded by Mr. Sowerby as of a 
 new species. They contain sulphate of barytes, and are 
 supposed to be referable to some of the oolites near the 
 Oxford clay. 
 
 We may here notice the remarkable lignite formation of 
 Mackenzie River. The formation which constitutes its 
 banks consists of wood-coal in various states, alternating 
 with beds of pipe-clay, potter's clay (occasionally bitumi- 
 nous), slate-clay, gravel, sand, and friable sandstones, and 
 occasionally with porcelain-earth. These strata are usually 
 horizontal, and as many as four beds of lignite are exposed 
 in some places, of which the upper are above the highest 
 river floods of pr< sent times. The lignite itself is pretty 
 compact when recently detached ; but it soon splits into 
 rhomboidal pieces, separable into more or less delicate slaty 
 portions. When burnt, it produces little smoke or flame, 
 and leaves a brownish-red residuum, not one-tenth of the 
 
 
GEOLOGY. 
 
 327 
 
 anionsthein 
 Fort Enter- 
 ro M»Tavish 
 1 is sandy or 
 ro feet a bed 
 tinues firmly 
 and the thaw 
 into the sur- 
 
 jng, from its 
 nzie, and it» 
 at the rapid, 
 sand or clay, 
 disintegration 
 f shows itself 
 tpid are about 
 are composed 
 of an earthy- 
 ay and sand- 
 ^lour. These 
 abstance simi- 
 n impressions 
 f the cliff Dr. 
 ark of a tree 
 own iron-shot 
 werby as of a 
 rytes, and are 
 olites near the 
 
 e formation of 
 constitutes its 
 Bs, alternating 
 onally bitumi- 
 andstones, and 
 ata are usually 
 ite are exposed 
 ►ve the highest 
 itself is pretty 
 oon splits into 
 3S delicate slaty 
 moke or flame, 
 ne-tenth of the 
 
 t>Tiginal bulk. But the smell is very fetid, resemblmg that 
 of phosphorus. It was found unfit for welding iron when 
 used alone, but it sufficed when mixed with charcoal. 
 However, the smell was still most annoying. A frequent 
 form of this lignite is that of slate, of a dull brownish- 
 black colour, with a shining streak. 
 
 These remarkable beds seem to take fire spontaneously 
 when exposed to the action of the air. They were found 
 burning by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, when he passed 
 downwards in 1 789, and are supposed to have been on fire 
 ever since. Ijarge slips of the banks take place in conse- 
 quence of the destruction of the coal, and it is only when 
 the debris has been washed nway by the river that good sec- 
 tions become visible. " The beds were on fire when we 
 visited them ; and the burnt clay, vitrified sand, aggluti- 
 nated gravel. Sec. gave many spots the appearance of an old 
 brick-field."* 
 
 The pipe-clay is also sufficiently singular to deserve a 
 special notice. It occurs in beds from six inches to a foot 
 in thickness, and chiefly in contact with tbe lignite. Its 
 colour is yellowish-white ; in some places, however, it is 
 light lake-red. It is used by the natives as an article of 
 food in times of scarcity, and is said to be capable of sus- 
 taining life for a considerable time. It is known to the 
 traders under the name of while mud. They wash their 
 houses with it. 
 
 The alluvial islands at the mouth of the Mackenzie 
 separate the various branches of that great river. These 
 islands are either partially or entirely flooded in the spring ; 
 their centres are depressed, and are either marshy or occu- 
 pied by a lake. Their borders, however, are more elevated, 
 and are well clothed by white spruce-trees. These, and 
 whatever other trees are produced in the islands, suddenly 
 cease to grow about liititude 68° 40'. 
 
 The famous Copper Mountains, so called, consist prin- 
 cipally of trap rocks, which seemed to Dr. Richardson to 
 be imposed upon the new red sandstone, or the floetz lime- 
 stone which covers it. They rise to a height of eight or 
 nine hundred feet above the level of the river, and present 
 a softish outline at a distance ; but on a nearer view they 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's Second Journey, p. 18. 
 
 [111 
 
 
828 
 
 NATTTRAL HISTORY. 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 ( 
 
 seem composed of ridges, many of which have precipitous 
 sides. The summits are stony and uneven. The largest 
 pieces of copper are found associated with prehnite, and the 
 Indians are careful to search for ore wherever they observe 
 pieces of the last-named mineral lying on the surface. The 
 original repository or vein of copper ore does not appear to 
 have been hitherto observed ; but judging from specimens 
 picked up by our overland expeditions!, it most probably 
 traverses felspathose trap. Ice-chisels have been observed 
 in the possession of the Esquimaux measuring twelve or 
 fourteen inches long, and half an inch in diameter, formed 
 of pure copper. 
 
 Another range of trap hills occurs at the distance of 
 ten miles to the northward of the Copper Mountains. This 
 range is about twenty miles from the Arctic Sea, and be- 
 yond it the country is very level, with a subsoil of light 
 brownish-red sandstone. These desolate plains nourish 
 only a coarse short grass, and the trees, which had previously 
 dwindled to scraggy clumps, entirely disappear. 
 
 At the mouth of the Coppermine River there occurs a 
 low ridge of greenstone ; and from thence to Bloody Fall, 
 which is a distance of about ten miles, the country is very 
 level, with the exception of some ridges of trap, by which 
 it is traversed. The channel of the river is sunk nearly 
 150 feet below the level of the surrounding country, and is 
 bounded by cliffs of yellowish-white sand, and sometimes 
 of clay, beneath which beds of greensstone occasionally 
 crop out. 
 
 The islands in this quarter of the Arctic Sea are invari- 
 ably rocky. They present a remarkable uniformity of ap- 
 pearance, and are very generally bounded by mural preci- 
 pices of trap-rock clinkstone or claystone. But the main 
 shore presents a greater diversity. For sixty miles east- 
 ward of Coppermine River, the beach is low and gravelly, 
 but towards Tree River the trap rocks reappear and form a 
 steril and rocky coast. At P«)rt Epworth the valleys were 
 stony, and almost entirely destitute of herbage. The rocks 
 (^served were liver-brown clinkstone porphyry, with a few 
 beds of earthy greenstone, and the same formation extends 
 to the mouth of Wentzel's River, to the eastward of which 
 a projection of the coast forms Cape Barrow. When Dr. 
 Richardson rounded this cape the weather was extremely 
 
GEOLOGY, 
 
 329 
 
 foggy, but the rocks CTamined consisted of a beautiful ad- 
 mixture of red and gray granite, forming steop and craggy 
 peaks which rose abruptly from the water to the height of 
 1500 feet. At Detention Harbour the granite hills termi- 
 nate abruptly, or recede from the coast, giving place to less 
 elevated strata of gneiss, in which beds of red granite are 
 enclosed. A vein of galena was observed running through 
 the gneiss for two hundred yards at the spot named in con- 
 sequence Galena Point.* A mass of indurated iron-shot 
 slaty clay occurs on the western point of Moore's Bay, and 
 the promontory which forms the eastern side of that bay is 
 composed of trap rocks and claystone porphyry, whose 
 mural precipices constitute the sides of narrow valleys, 
 opening at either end towards the sea. An iron-shot clink- 
 fitone porphyry, with a columnar aspect, prevails from 
 Moore's Bay to the entrance of Arctic Sound. The eastern 
 shore of that sound is covered with grass, and scarcely ex- 
 hibits any naked rock ; but the clinkstone porphyry reap- 
 pears on Bankes's Peninsula, along with an earthy-looking 
 greenfiu. '^', and forms as usual parallel ranges of mural 
 precipic" i'^n Barry's Island the trap rocks form cliffs from 
 50 to • et high, superimposed on thick beds of in- 
 
 durated ciay or marl. A red amygdaloidal rock, containing 
 beautiful pebbles of carnelian, chalcedony, and imbedded 
 jaspers, was observed on the north side of the island. 
 
 Trap rocks, for the most part greenstone, and sandstone 
 of the new red formation, characterize Sir James Gordon's 
 Bay ; but to the north of Fowler's Bay the gneiss reap- 
 pears, with beds of granite and hornblende gneiss. Hex- 
 agonal crystals of hornblende, above a foot long, were ob- 
 served imbedded in the gneiss near Point Evritt, and the 
 islands in the offing consisted as usual of floetz trap or por- 
 phyry. Cape Croker is composed of red sandstone, of 
 which the debris forms a shelving and utterly barren shore. 
 Grayish-white sandstone, associated with or passing into 
 slaty-clay, was visible on the northern shore of Melville 
 Sound, wherever the barren clayey sand was washed away. 
 Cliffs of greenstone, or of clay-stone porphyry, superim- 
 posed on the flat strata, presented the appearance of islands, 
 nvhen seen from the opposite coast, as our exploring partjr 
 
 * Appendix to Franltlin's Fint Journey, p. 531. 
 £c2 
 
330 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 entered the sound, and had the low connecting land been 
 then visible, a tedious and unnecessary circumnavigation 
 of the sound itself would have been saved. The coast ex- 
 hibited the same appearance as far as Point Turnngain, the 
 mo«t eastern point attained by the overland expeditions. 
 
 On a general view, it appears that the new red sandstone 
 formation prevails along those portions of the North Ame- 
 rican Arctic shores. "All the islands visited," says Dr. 
 Richardson, "were formed of trap or porphyry belonging 
 to that formation ; and, jndging from similarity of form, 
 the rocks of the other islands belong to the same class. 
 The gneiss formation is next in extent ; and, indeed, it 
 appears to run nearly parallel to the coast withiii the red 
 sandstone from Cape Barrow, across Hood's River above 
 Wilberforce Falls, to the bottom of Bathurst's Inlet, and 
 from thence to Hope's Bay, on the western side of Melville 
 Sound. The only foreign lieds we observed in the gneiss 
 were granite, perhaps quartz-rock and hornblendic gneiss or 
 syenite. We saw no clay or mica-slate, nor did we observe 
 any formations intermediate between the gneiss and new 
 red sandstone ; nor, except at Cape Barrow, where jjranite 
 predominates, any other formation than the two just men- 
 tioned. Our opportunities for observation, however, were 
 not extensive ; the necessity of proceeding without delay 
 limiting xjur botanical and geognostical excursions to the 
 short period that was required to prepare breakfast or 
 supper."* 
 
 From Point Tiirnagain the party proceeded to Hood's 
 River, which they traced to some distance. Near its mouth 
 that river is from 100 to 300 yards in width, and is bounded 
 by steep high banks of clay, reposing on floetz rocks. At 
 Wilberforce Falls, which are six or seven miles above the 
 second rapid, the river makes a striking descent of about 
 250 feet into a chasm, the walls of which consist of light- 
 red felspathose sandstone, belonging, as Dr. Richardson 
 supposes, to the old red sandstone formation, or that which 
 lies under coal, and occasionally alternates with transition 
 rocks.'t A short distance above these falls the gneiss^ forma- 
 tion appears, and produces hills precisely similar to those 
 about Fort Enterprise. On quitting Hood's River our ex- 
 
 * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, p. 533. f Ibid. p. £f3^ 
 
 4 
 
GEOLOGY. 
 
 331 
 
 ploring party ascended from the valley through which it 
 flows, and entered upon an even, clayey, and very barren 
 district, partially covered by shallow lakes. This plain 
 Country continued nearly as far as Cracroft's River, where 
 the gneiss reappeared, and presented those bleak hills and 
 precipices so characteristic of the Barren Grounds. The 
 gneiss formation was observed to continue without essential 
 change to Obstruction Rapid, between Providence and 
 Point Lakes, where it united with the Fort Enterprise dis- 
 trict formerly alluded to. 
 
 The preceding geognostical details, and others into the 
 consideration of which we Cannot here enter, render it ap- 
 parent that the general distribution and connexion of the 
 hills and mountain-masses of these northern regions are 
 nearly the same as geologists have observed to characterize 
 similar materials in other portions of the earth. The 
 primitive rocks occur in their usual relations ; and gneiss, 
 attended by an extremely scanty vegetation, appears to be 
 the most extensively distributed. Granite was the next in 
 frequency ; after which may be placed mica-slate. Clay- 
 slate and protogine were the least abundant. The granite 
 of Cape Barrow was intersected by veins of augite green- 
 stone of the same description as those which occur in the 
 granite districts of Great Britain, and the primitive rocks in 
 general were found to be traversed by veins of felspar, 
 quartz, and granite. 
 
 The transition rocks, consisting principally of clay-slate 
 and graywacke, bore a strong resemblance to those in 
 Dumfries-shire, — a fact which did not fail to attract the 
 attention of Dr. Richardson, himself a native of that dis- 
 trict. 
 
 In regard to the secondary formations, the facts observed 
 "by Dr. Richardson show the existence — First, Of the cid 
 red sandstone, or that which lies under coal, and occasionally 
 alternates with transition rocks : Second, Of the coal form- 
 ation, which was ascertained to occur in certain districts of 
 Mackenzie River, and towards the Rocky Mountains : Third, 
 Of the new red or variegated sandstone, an important form- 
 ation of considerable extent, which contained, as it is known 
 to do in the Old World, gypsum and beds of salt, or of 
 inuriatiferous clay, affording saline materials for the im- 
 
 r 
 I 
 
 ^'V 
 
 
 
 i 
 
333 
 
 NATtHAL HISTORY. 
 
 pregnations of the salt springs which issue from it : Fourth^ 
 Of the secondary limestone belonging to that vast deposite 
 which lies above the new red sandstone, and beneath chalk, 
 and which occupies extensive tracts in Britain and other 
 parts of Europe : Fifth, Of the secondary trap and porphyry 
 rocks, in the composition and character of which one of the 
 most interesting features is undoubtedly the frequent oc- 
 currence of native copper, both among the Copper Moun< 
 tains themselves, and along the Arctic shore. 
 
 The alluvial deposites consist, as usual, of sand, gravel, 
 rolled blocks, boulder-stones, and the debris of various 
 rocks. We may conclude by observing, in the words of Dr. 
 Richardson, to whom we are deeply indebted for the inform- 
 ation presented in this volume, that the foregoing details 
 make it manifest " that in the regions we traversed the rocks 
 of the primitive, transition, secondary, and alluvial classes 
 have the same ffeneral composition, structure, position, and 
 distribution as in other parts of America which have been 
 examined; and as these agree in all respects with the 
 rock formations in Europe and Asia, they may with pro- 
 priety be considered as universal formations — parts of a 
 grand and harmonious whole — the production of Infinite 
 Wisdom." 
 
 ii 
 
 ^* Stand still and behold the wondrous works or 
 God, — THE wondrous works of him vvhich is perfect 
 
 IN knowledge." 
 
 ^Remember that thou magnify his work which mbn 
 BEHOLD. Every man may see it ; men may behold it 
 afar off." 
 
 *' O Lord, how manifold are thy works ! in wisdom 
 
 HAST thou made THEM ALL ! THE EARTH IS FOLL OF THY 
 RICHES." 
 
 " Before the mountains were brought forth, or 
 ever thou hadst formed the earth and the world, 
 £v£n from sverlasting to everlasting, thou art gon.** 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 REMARKS 
 
 ON 
 
 A LATE MEMOIR OF SEBASTIAN CABOT, 
 
 WITH ▲ 
 
 VINDICATION OF RICHARD HAKLUYT. 
 
 ' " Floreat Historia Britannica, recordis authenticisque expromatar. 
 Scribatur lente mature, ordinate, sincere, dilucide, sine partium studio, 
 nne pravo eonsilio, sineomni vili affectu virin iiteratis iiidigno." — Madux, 
 Discepfatio Epistolaris De Magna Rotulo Scaccarii. 
 
 The reader is already aware, that in the present volume 
 the discovery of North America, in the reign of Henry VII., 
 has been exclusively ascribed to John Cabot, a Venetian, 
 who had settled as a merchant at Bristol. The author of a 
 late work* has attributed this noted extension of geographi- 
 cal knowledge solely to the subject of his biography, Sebas- 
 tian Cabot, the son of John. According to him, it was Se- 
 bastian who projected the expedition in which the discovery 
 was made, — it was Sebastian who conducted the expedition, 
 — ^it is doubtful whether John Cabot accompanied the voyage 
 at all, and it is certain, if he did, it was simply as a merchant 
 who traded on his capital. The biographer has brought for- 
 ward his arguments in support of this theory, in the fifth 
 chapter of his work, entitled Comparative Agency of John 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot. 
 
 \i' 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 U 
 
834 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 \ r 
 
 
 
 
 and Sebastian Cabot ; and it if 'n the course of these argfU- 
 ments that he has made an attack upon the integrity and 
 honesty of Richard Hakluyt, a writer to whom the history 
 of maritime discovery is under the deepest obligations. These 
 two points, therefore, — the discovery of North America, and 
 the credit due to the evidence of Hakluvt, — must necessarily 
 be considered in conjunction ; auJ we trust we shall con- 
 vince every impartial reader of the accuracy of our assertion, 
 that John Cabot was the discoverer, and that the attack 
 upon Hakluyt is perfectly unfounded. 
 
 Before, however, proceeding to the more immediate sub- 
 ject of inquiry, we may be permitted to say, that although 
 It becomes our duty to point out repeated and material errors, 
 and in some instances considerable injustice committed by 
 the biographer of Cabot, we are anxious to avoid that pe- 
 culiar asperity which he has unnecessarily mingled with a 
 subject 80 remote that it may surely be approached in a 
 spirit of great calmness and impartiality. We wish to em- 
 ploy no expression which may give a moment's unnecessary 
 pain to the biographer. His Memoir of Cabot, as may be 
 seen from the references to it in the course of this volume, 
 has been frequently of use to us. Although rather a piece 
 of biographical and historic criticism than a pure biogra- 
 phy, it is a meritorious woi it points out to the reader 
 some recondite sources of information,— its deductions and 
 arguments are often acute and ingenious, — and, confused 
 and deficient as it is in its arrangement, it contains occa- 
 sional passages which are eloquently written. But it is im- 
 possible not to regret that there is infused into the whole 
 book a more than ordinary proportion of that bitter and 
 querulous spirit which, in a greater or less degree, seems 
 inseparable from the lucubrations of the antiquary, — that 
 the author has poured abuse, contempt, and ridicule upon 
 those who have fallen into errors which he sometimes has, 
 and at other times imagines he has, detected, — and that he 
 is unscrupulous in imputing unfair and ungenerous motives 
 to those who little deserve such an accusation. Robertson, 
 Forster, Henry, Campbell, Southey, Barrow, and other able 
 writei's, are attacked in unmeasured terms, as the arch pro- 
 pagators of all that is erroneous and superficial on the sub- 
 ject of maritime discovery ; and our excellent friend Rich- 
 ard Hakluyt, who has slept in an honoured grave for upwards 
 
 ■ r '9 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLVYT 
 
 335 
 
 n 
 
 '<'i 
 
 these argu- 
 legrity and 
 the history 
 ans. These 
 merica, and 
 necessarily 
 B shall con- 
 ir assertion, 
 t the attack 
 
 nediate sub- 
 lat although 
 iterial errors, 
 onimitted by 
 roid that pe- 
 ngled with a 
 reached in a 
 ; wish to em- 
 ( unnecessary 
 3t, as may be 
 f this volume, 
 rather a piece 
 a pure biogra- 
 I to the reader 
 eductions and 
 and, confused 
 ontains occa- 
 But it is im- 
 nto the whole 
 lat bitter and 
 legree, seems 
 ;iquary, — that 
 idicule upon 
 tmetimes has, 
 and that he 
 erous motives 
 Robertson, 
 md other able 
 the arch pro- 
 |al on the sub- 
 i friend Rich- 
 e for upwards 
 
 of two centuries, is resuscitated to be treated only with more 
 unsparing severity. We proceed now to the discussion of the 
 point in question, — Who discovered North America 1 The 
 fact, then, that it was John Cabot who projected, fitted 
 out, and conducted the expedition by which this discovery 
 was made rests on evidence so conclusive, that it is diffi- 
 cult to imagine how any impartial inquirer can resist its 
 force. 
 
 Firstf There is the original commission or letters-patent 
 in Rymer, vol. xii. p. 595, in which Joh7i Cabot is evidently 
 the principal person intrusted with the undertaking. His 
 three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sanchez, are indeed in- 
 cluded with him in the patent ; but it is allowed on all 
 hands that neither Lewis nor Sanchez accompanied the 
 voyage, and Sebastian, although he undoubtedly went along 
 with his father, could not then have been more than twenty, 
 —an age excluding the idea of his either originating or con- 
 ducting the enterprise. 
 
 Secondly y We have the language of the second patent, 
 dated the 3d February, 1498, in which the letters are di- 
 rected to John Cabot alone^ and he is empowered to sail with 
 his ships to the land and isles of late found by the saidJohn^ 
 in the king's name and commandment, — a piece of evidence 
 which, even if it stood single and unsupported, appears to 
 be decisive of the question. 
 
 Thirdly^ We have the inscription under the contemporary 
 portrait of Sebastian Cabot, painted by Holbein, in which 
 he is described as the son of the Venetian, Sir John Cabot, 
 who was the first discoverer of the New Land, " Primi In- 
 ventoris TerraB Novae sub Henrico VIL, Angliee Rege ;'* 
 and in the 
 
 Fourth placcy A proof of the same fact is to be found in 
 the inscription by Clement Adams upon the Map of America 
 which he engraved after a drawing of Sebastian Cabot's, 
 and in the lifetime of this navigator. In this inscription, 
 as already more minutely pointed out,* the principal place 
 is given to the lather, John Cabot, and the son is mentioned, 
 as It appears to us, not as commanding the ships or having 
 originated the voyage, but simply as accompanying the ex- 
 pedition. 
 
 * Supra, p. 10, 17. 
 
 ■^ 
 
 k 
 
 1 . > J 
 
 
336 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 Having ;Bfone thus far, we are now ready to enter upon 
 the investigation of the nrguinents urged by the biographer 
 in favour of the claim which he has set up for Sebastian as 
 the sole discoverer ; and here we may remark, that in the 
 classification of his evidence he has followed a method 
 ivhich is certainly not the best calculated for the manifesta- 
 tion of truth. He first arranges what he denominates the 
 proofs in support of the father ; but those which he enu- 
 merates Jirstf and which alone he discusses with minute 
 attention, are the weakest that could be selected, and such 
 88 no one who carefully weighs them would place much re- 
 liance on ; while the unnnswerable evidence is brought in 
 last with extreme brevity, and dismissed with scarce any 
 observation. 
 
 " The various items of evidence," says he, " which are 
 supposed to establish the prevailing personal agency of 
 John Cabot, may be ranked thus : — 
 
 "1. The dieged statement of Robert Fabyan. 
 
 " 2. The language of more recent writers as to the char- 
 acter of the father. 
 
 " 3. The appearance of his name in the map cut by 
 Clement Adams, and also in the patents. 
 
 " As to the first," he continues, " the authority usually 
 referred to is found in Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 9, — ' A rote of 
 Sebastian Cabot's first discoverie of part of the Indies, taken 
 out of the latter part of Robert Fabyan's Chronicle, not 
 hitherto printed, which is in the custodie of M. John Stow, 
 a diligent preserver of antiquities. In the 13 yeere of K. 
 Henry the 7 (by meanes of one John Cabot, a Venetian, 
 which made himselfe very expert and cunning in the know- 
 ledge of the circuit of the world, and islands of the same, 
 as by a sea-card and other demonstrations reasonable he 
 shewed), the king caused to man and victuall a ship at Bris- 
 tow, to search for an island which he said he knew well 'was 
 rich, and replenished with great commodities ; which shippe, 
 thus manned and victualled, at the king's costs, divers 
 merchants of London ventured in her small stocks, being in 
 her, as chief patron, the said Venetian. And m the com- 
 pany of the said ship, suiled also out of Bristow, three or 
 foure small ship:?, fraught with sleight and grosse marchan- 
 dises, as course cloth, caps, laces, points, and other trifles, 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLUYT. 
 
 837 
 
 enter upon 
 biographer 
 jebastian as 
 that in the 
 1 a method 
 e manifesta- 
 minates the 
 iich he enu- 
 with minute 
 ed, and such 
 ice much re- 
 3 brought in 
 ,h scarce any 
 
 " which are 
 d agency of 
 
 fin. 
 
 3 to the char- 
 map cut by 
 
 lority usually 
 
 ' A rote of 
 
 . Indies, taken 
 ;^hronicle, not 
 . John Stow, 
 3 yeere of K. 
 ,, a Venetian, 
 in the know- 
 of the same, 
 •easonable he 
 . ship at Bris- 
 new well 'was 
 [which shippe, 
 costs, divers 
 [ocks, being in 
 in the com- 
 ,ow, three or 
 isse marchan- 
 other trifl«s> 
 
 and 80 departed from Bristow in the beginning of May, of 
 whom, in this maior's time, returned t»o tidings.' " 
 
 This is the passage which the author of the Memoir has 
 accused Hakluyt of perverting ; and, instead of giving it 
 simply as it was furnished by Stow, — of interpolating tho 
 name of John Cabot. Nor is it difTicuk to see how he was 
 led to make this accusation. It was necessary, in support 
 of his views, to show that this alleged statement of Fal»yan 
 contained no allusion to John, but actually supported the 
 claim of Sebastian Cabot : but this could not be done if 
 Hakluyt has given it fairly ; and in this way the biogra- 
 pher, animated with zeal for his theory, was imperceptibly 
 drawn on to attack the integrity of this writer. Now, be- 
 fore considering so grave an accusation against Hakluyt, 
 we have one introductory remark to make upon this quota- 
 tion from I'^abyan. It is certain that it alludes to the second 
 voyage made to North America by Sebastian Cabot, in the 
 year 1498, and not to the first, in which that country was 
 discovered. Of this the passage contains internal evidence 
 which is perfectly conclusive. The first voyage took place 
 in the twelfth year of Henry VII. This in the thirteenth. 
 The first voyage was at the sole expense of the adventurers* 
 Of this the king bore the expense. The first voyage could 
 allude to no former discovery. This alludes to an island 
 which had been already discovered. To quote the passage, 
 therefore, as evidence in favour of John Cabot's discovery, 
 which has certainly been done by some modern writers, 
 argues a rapid and superficial examination of its contents. 
 Certamly Hakluyt does not cite it with this view ; but in- 
 cludes it, on the contrary, amor g those portions of evidence, 
 those testimonies, as he calls them, in which the sole glory 
 of the earliest voyage to North America is given to Sebastian 
 Cabot.* All this may be true, says the memorialist, but it 
 does not exculpate Hakluyt. I do not accuse him of citing 
 the passage as a proof in favour of John Cabot — but of 
 altering it so as to mislead other authors : he has " per- 
 verted" the passage, and has suffered the evidence of his 
 " guilty deed" to lie ".bout, so as to furnish the means of 
 his own conviction. Such is the charge advanced against 
 Hakluyt ; and never, we will venture to say, was there a 
 
 * Hakluyt'8 Voyages, edition 1600, vol. iii. p. 4-9, inclasive. 
 
 Ff 
 
 m 
 
 
 h^ 
 
 \l 
 
( 
 
 i ( 
 
 h< 
 
 338 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 more unfoumleil accuHntion, ns will nppenr when it comet 
 to bo examined, ami yet the argument of the biogra})her if 
 ingenious, and it recjuires some attention to detect its fallacy. 
 The object in the whole matter, it will be observed, was 
 twofold ; first, to show that Robert Fabyan, a contemporary 
 author, ascribes the discovery of North America to Seba8« 
 tian, and not to John Cabot ; nnd, secondly, to prove that Hak- 
 luyt has been guilty of dishonestly perverting the passage 
 from Fabyan communicated to him by Stow the antiquary. 
 How then does he accomplish this? In the first place, he 
 goes to the earliest wt)rk of Ilnkluyt, published in 1582, 
 where this writer gives for the first time the following note 
 as to the discovery, which we quote verbatim from the work 
 itself, now lying on our table : — 
 
 *♦ A Note of Sedasti.in Gabote's Voyage of Discoverie, 
 taken out of an old Chronicle written by Robert FABIA^, 
 some time Alderman of liondon, which is in the custodie 
 of John Stow, citizen, a diligent searcher and preserver 
 of antiquities. 
 
 In the 13 Tnrs yeere the king (by means of a Venetian 
 ^na^Henrie ^''''^'^ made himselfe very expert and cunning 
 the VII. in knowledge of the circuite of the worlde, and 
 1498. islands of the same, as by a carde and other 
 
 demonstrations reasonable hee shewed) caused to man and 
 victuall a shippe at Bristowe, to searche for an ilande, 
 whiche hee saide hee knewe well was riche, and replenished 
 with riche commodities. Which ship, thus manned and 
 victualled at the kinge's cost*, divers merchants of London 
 ventured in her small stockes, being in her, as chiefe patrone, 
 the said Venetian, and in the companie of the said shippe, 
 sayled also out of Bristowe three or foure small 
 ships fraught with sleight and grosse merchan- 
 dizes, as course cloth, caps, laces, points, and other trifles, 
 Wm. Pur- ^"'^ ^^^ departed from Bristowe in the beginning 
 chasl Maior of May, of whom, in this Maior's time, returned 
 of London, no tidings." 
 
 Having given this quotation from Hakluyt*s publication 
 of 1582, the writer of the life next turns to the larger work 
 of the same author, published in 1589, and he discovers 
 
 Bristow. 
 
VINDICATION OP HAKLUTT. 
 
 830 
 
 n it comet 
 
 tit 8 fallacy. 
 
 serveJ, wa» 
 nitempornTy 
 ;a to Scbas- 
 vethatHak- 
 the passage 
 ,e antiquary. 
 T9t place, he 
 led in 1582, 
 )llowing note 
 ora the work 
 
 )f DiBCOverie, 
 BERT Fabian, 
 n the custodie 
 and preserver 
 
 of a Venetian 
 and cunning 
 e ^worlde, and 
 irde and other 
 ;d to man and 
 I for an ilande, 
 nd replenished 
 I manned and 
 ints of London 
 Ichiefe patrone, 
 L said 8hippe» 
 |or foure small 
 •osse merchan- 
 1 other trifles, 
 the beginning 
 itime, returned 
 
 ♦s publication 
 
 le larger work 
 
 he discover* 
 
 that ho has added to the nentence, as it stood in 1582, the 
 words " one John Cabot." The passage in the narrHtive 
 of 1589 stands thus : — " In the 13 yeero of King Henrie 
 the VII. by means of one John Cabot, a Vcnetiiin, which 
 made himself very expert," &c., the rest of the sentence 
 being the same as in 1582. Here then, says he, is munitest 
 interpolation and dishonesty ; the original passage from 
 Fabyan has been altered ; Hakluyt, in 15S9, does not give 
 it in the same terms as in l.')82. Before, however, arriving 
 at so strong and uncharitable a conclusion, it must strike 
 every reader that the original passage, either is it stands in 
 Fabyan, or as it stood in the extract furnished by Stow from 
 Fabyan, ought to be carefully examined. Till the j/ussa^e, 
 as it is given by Hakluyt, is compared with on. or otli- rof 
 these, it is perfectly evident that no charge of alteration or 
 interpolation can be made good against him. Now, the 
 original chronicle of Ffibyan, from which Stow too'^ the 
 passage, is lost — and the biographer does not pretem, ii,at 
 he has discovered in the manutiicripts of Hakluyt the original 
 passage, as extracted by Stow, and sent to this writer— 
 but he endeavours to supply it in a very sinijular manner. 
 In speaking of Hakluyt's alleged perversion of the passage, 
 as sent by Stow, he observes : — " Fortunately, we are not 
 left to mere conjecture. In 1605 appeared Stovv'a own 
 * Annals.' The simplicity and good faith of this writer are 
 so well known, as well as his intense reverence for what- 
 ever bore the stamp of antiquity, that we have no fear of 
 his having committed what in his eyes would have been 
 sacrilege, by changing one syllable of the original. Let it 
 be remembered, then, that Hakluyt relies exci lively on what 
 he obtained from Stow ; and in reading tlid iijllowing pas- 
 sage from the Annals, we Hnd what doubtless passed into 
 Hakluyt's hands before it was subniittpd to his perilous 
 correction. It occurs at p. 804 of the edition of 1605, and at 
 p. 483 of that of 1631. ' This year i>ne Sebastian Gaboto, 
 a Genoti*s sonne borne in Bristol., professing himself to be 
 expert in the knowledge of the circuit of the world, and 
 islands of the same, as by nis charts and other reasonable 
 demonstrations he shewed, caused the king to man and 
 victual a ship,' &c. The rest corresponds with the passage 
 in Hakluyt. * * * Thus," continues the biographefi 
 
 i\ 
 

 if 
 
 ■i I 
 
 Sil 
 
 !) 
 
 ti<' 
 
 If' 
 
 
 ?!/ 
 
 340 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 " we have the best evidence that the contemporary writer, 
 whoever he may have been, made not the slightest allusion 
 to the father. Bacon, Speed, Thuanus, &c. all furnish the 
 same statement."* 
 
 Such is the passage from the Memoir of Cabot ; and 
 thus it appears that the whole of this attack upon Hakluyt 
 rests upon a fact which the biographer imagines he has 
 proved, but which in truth is nothing else than a piece of 
 the merest and the most vague pr*»sumption^ — namely, that 
 Stow furnished Hakluyt, in 1562, with an extract from 
 Fabyan, which, when he himself proceeded, about eighteen 
 years after, to compile his Annals from'a long list of writers, 
 whose names he has given us in his prefatory pages, he so 
 scrupulously copied, that we are entitled to take it as it 
 stands in the said Annals, and argue upon it as the iden- 
 tical passage contained in the lost chronicle of P'abyan. 
 
 But this is not merely gratuitous assumption. There is, 
 we think, strong evidence to show that Stow, in composing 
 his various works, did not, upon the point in question, — 
 the discovery of America, — consult the manuscript of 
 Fabyan, although he affirms it to be in his possession, but 
 in the multiplicity of his authorities had overlooked it alto- 
 gether. The first Summary of Chronicles was published 
 by this industrious antiquary in 1565. A new edition was 
 given in 1573, and again another edition in 1598. His 
 excellent work entitled a Survey of London and West- 
 minster was also published in 1598 : and it is a remarkable 
 circumstance, and one which militates strongly against the 
 hypothesis of the biographer, that although in the list of 
 his authorities prefixed to the edition of his Chronicles in 
 1573, and to the Survey of London, there is express men- 
 tion of the manuscript by Fabyan, si ill, in neither of these 
 works is there any allusion made, which we can discover, 
 to the voyages of the Cabots, or the discovery of America. 
 His work entitled Flores Historiarum, or Annals of Eng- 
 land, was published in 1600, and here, for the first time, is 
 the passage regarding the voyage to America introduced ; 
 in which, as we have already seen, Sebastian Cabot is 
 called " a Genoa's son." But it is to be recollected that 
 Robert Fabyan was a contemporary of Sebastian Cabot ; 
 
 * Memoir of Cabot, p. 44. 
 
VINDICATION OY HAKLUYT. 
 
 d4i 
 
 M 
 
 Jl 
 
 iTary writer, 
 test allusion 
 I furnish the 
 
 Cabot; and 
 pen Hakluyt 
 rines he has 
 n a piece of 
 namely, that 
 extract from 
 »out eighteen 
 ist of writers, 
 pages, he so 
 ► take it as it 
 L as the iden- 
 f Fabyan. 
 n. There is, 
 in composing 
 n question,— 
 lanu script of 
 ossession, but 
 ■looked it alto- 
 was published 
 |w edition was 
 in 1598. His 
 ,n and West- 
 1 a remarkable 
 ly against the 
 in the list of 
 Chronicles in 
 , express men- 
 [eiiher of these 
 can discover, 
 •y of America, 
 mals of Eng- 
 le first time, is 
 ;a introduced ; 
 stian Cabot is 
 [ecoUected that 
 astian Cabot ; 
 
 that he was a rich merchant and alderman of London ; 
 and the probability is, that he was either personally ac- 
 quainted with so illustrious a navigator, or at least enjoyed 
 the beat opportunities of rendering himself master of his 
 history. It appears to us, therefore, exceedingly improb- 
 able that Fabyan should have fallen into the error of de- 
 scribing Sebastian Cabot as a Genoese's son, instead of 
 the 8<m of a Venetian. Now, it is a singular circumstance, 
 that in the Chronicle of Thomas Lanquette, a work which 
 Stow also mentions as in his possession, Sebastian is de- 
 scribed as the son of a Genoese, and the discoverer of a 
 part of the West Indies,* and this induces us to conjec- 
 ture that the passage in question was taken by Stow, not 
 from Fabyan's Chronicle, but from that work. Down to 
 1598, he does not appear to have examined Fabyan's trea- 
 tise upon the subject of America", or Cabot; and becoming 
 old (he was now in his seventy-sixth year), and failing in 
 'his memory, it appears extremely probable that he had con- 
 tented himself with a reference to the volume of Lanquette. 
 So far, therefore, from admitting the fact which has 
 been hastily, and without any sufficient ground, assumed 
 by the biographer, tlint the passage in Stow's Annals 
 regarding Sebastian Cabot may be considered the very 
 extract from Fabyan communicated to Hakluyt, we con- 
 tend that a minute examination of Stow's historical labours 
 proves that, in composing his Annals, he had omitted to 
 consult the Chronicle of Fabyan, and had copied some less 
 authentic writer — probably the Chronicle of Lanquette. 
 What follows from this ] — First, the whole elaborate accu- 
 sation of guilty perversion of the extract from Fabyan, so 
 unceremoniously advanced against Hakluyt, falls completely 
 to the ground. Secondly, the biographer's supposed pas- 
 sage from Fabyan, a contemporary, turns out to be nothing 
 more than a quotation from Stow ; and consequently, the 
 assertion that the former has described Sebastian Cabot as 
 the sole projector and executor of the voyage in which 
 North America was discovered, is perfectly unw.irrantable. 
 The original manuscript of Fabyan, as we have already 
 
 * Barrett's Bristol, p. 185, 173. 1 take it for granted that this author 
 must have seen the passage which he quote.s ; but in ihe only edition 
 of Lanquette's Chronicle which I have haU an opporiuiiity of examin- 
 ing there is no such passoi^e. 
 
 Ff2 
 
 !*>^ 
 
 
 t' ii 
 
342 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 stated, is lost ; the original extract from it furnished by 
 Stow to Hakluyt is also lost ; and without a minute exami- 
 nation of these two documents, the biographer was not en- 
 titled to wound the fair reputation of this excellent writer, to 
 whom the history of naval discovery is under so many obli- 
 gations, by charges without proof, and innuendoes arising 
 mainly out of the errors which he himself has committed. 
 
 But the biographer will perhaps contend that he has at 
 least made out one fact against Hakluyt — namely, that in 
 1589 he altered the passage from the fonn in which he gave it 
 in 1582 ; and is not this, says he, a dishonest and guilty 
 deed ? To this we answer, — and we think it impossible for 
 him to controvert the assertion, — that, admitting the fact, 
 there is no guilt or dishonesty in the case. The vitiation 
 of the text imputed here to Hakluyt may be considered 
 either as a perversion of the real truth, historically con- 
 sidered, or of the individual passage, or of both. 
 
 First, then, it is to be remarked, that Hakluyt cannot be 
 accused of dishonesty, historically speaking, because in 
 the passages in question he has stated nothing but the 
 truth. It has been already proved that the extract com- 
 municated by Stow relates solely to the second voyage of 
 1498, planned and fitted out by John Cabot the Venetian, 
 and conducted afterward by his son Sebastian ; and the 
 alteration of the note, from the words " a Venetian," used 
 in 1582, to the words "one John Cabot, a Venetian," used 
 in 1589, only makes it speak with more clearness and accu- 
 ra"cy. But, in the second place, Hakluyt, says the biogra- 
 pher, has perverted and altered a quotation. There might 
 be some appearance of plausibility in this accusation, if 
 Hakluyt had given the passage in dispute as a quotation, 
 and had thus bound himself down to the common usage 
 which compels an author in such a case to insert it word 
 for word. But he does not do so. He warns the reader 
 that he is perusing, not a quotation, but a " note made up 
 by him from an (3xtract communicated by Stow, and taken 
 out of the latter part of Robert Fabyan's Chronicle, not 
 hitherto printed ;" and having done so, he considered him- 
 self at liberty to correct that note, by inserting in it any 
 additional information which he had acquired. In 1582, he 
 thought that the words, " a Genoa's son, born in Bristol," 
 could not apply to Sebastian Cabot, with whom they were 
 
! >- 
 
 VINDICATION OF HAKLUYT. 
 
 343 
 
 > '1 
 
 imisKed by 
 lUte exami- 
 vatf not en- 
 it writer, to 
 many obli- 
 loes arising 
 lomniitted. 
 at he has at 
 ely, that in 
 :h he gave it 
 L and gui^y 
 npossible for 
 ng the fact, 
 ["he vitiation 
 e considered 
 arically con- 
 
 h. 
 
 yt cannot be 
 , because in 
 ling but the 
 extract coni- 
 nd voyage of 
 he "Venetian, 
 [ian ; and the 
 etian," used 
 letian," used 
 ;ss and accu- 
 s the biogra- 
 IThere might 
 jccusation, if 
 a quotation, 
 immon usage 
 isert it word 
 ,s the reader 
 lote made up 
 V, and taken 
 [hronicle, not 
 jsidered him- 
 ng in it any 
 In 1582, he 
 in Bristol," 
 they were 
 
 Cbupled, and he inserts the words, " a Venetian," dropping 
 the name altogether. In 1589, he had probably become 
 acquainted with the second patent, which ascribed the plan 
 of the expedition solely to John Cabot ; and he therefore 
 added to his note the words, " John Cabot, a Venetian," 
 where he speaks of the person who had caused the king to 
 man and victual a ship. Even, therefore, if we were to 
 admit, which we do not, that a discrepancy had been made 
 out between the passages in Hakluyt and the real extract 
 from the Chronicle of Robert Fabyan, we should be en- 
 titled to repel any accusations against his honesty, founded 
 upon a basis so extremely erroneous. 
 
 The memorialist now comes to the consideration of the 
 proof as to the " personal agency of the father in the dis- 
 covery of North America, derived from the inscription on 
 the map cut by Clement Adams, which Hakluyt states is 
 to he seen in her majesty's Privy Gallery at Westminster, 
 and in many other ancient merchants' houses."* And 
 here he commences his examination by another unfair 
 innuendo against this writer. " We approach the statement 
 of Hakluyt," says he, " with a conviction that he would 
 not hesitate for a moment to interpolate the- name of John 
 Cabot, if he thought that thereby was secured a better cor- 
 respondence with the original patent." I have convicted 
 him (it is thus he argues) of interpolating the quotation 
 furnished by Stow from Fabyan, and there is a strong pre- 
 sumption he would not hesitate to alter the inscription also. 
 " It would, certainly," he remarks, " require less audacity 
 te associate here the name of the father, as it is found in the 
 patent, than to do that of which Hakluyt has already been 
 convicted. "t To this indirect insinuation it may be calmly 
 replied, that, as the first attempt to affix guilt upon Hak- 
 luyt has been shown to be a total failure, the inscription 
 ought to be received from his hands with perfect confidence 
 that we read it in his work exactly as it was copied by him 
 from the original map of Sebastian Cabot, cut by Clement 
 Adams. From the manner in which it is given, first in the 
 original Latin, and then translated, it professes to be an 
 exact quotation ; and even were Hakluyt as guilty a person 
 as the biographer represents him, it might be contended 
 
 * See the proof stntcc?. Supra, p. 16. t Memoir of Cabot, p. 48. 
 
 'I 
 
 (ill 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 IK: 
 
 I, 
 
 
 IF' 
 
 ■ 
 
 } I 
 
 ''Mi 
 
 ! IB* 
 
 i >\ 
 
 Hi 
 
344 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 that he would have paused before he committed an act of 
 interpolation, of which the original in the Queen's Gallery, 
 and in many ancient merchants' houses, must have in- 
 stantly convicted him. 
 
 But to proceed. Having thus prepared us to expect an 
 aud<icious alteration, the biographer endeavours o show 
 that those persons who had seen Sebastian Cabot' charts 
 and maps, introduce no allusion to the father, and h leaves 
 the reader to make the inevitable inference against H kluyt's 
 honesty. This writer has quoted an inscription on Sebas- 
 tian Cabot's map, which attributes the discovery ti John 
 Cabot. But Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who had seen Sebas- 
 tian's charts, makes no allusion to the father ; and Richard 
 Willes, who speaks familiarly of the map of this navigator, 
 does not mention John ; therefore it is left to the reader 
 silently to infer that Hakluyt may have interpolated the 
 name of the father. A plain statement of the fact wiB 
 put all this down in an instant : — Hakluyt has narrated in 
 the clearest terms that the map to which he alludes, and 
 from which he copies the inscription, was engraved by 
 Clement Adams ; and the terms of the inscription show 
 that it (the inscription) was added by the artist. Sir Hum- 
 phrey Gilbert, on the contrary, just as clearly states, that 
 the documents to which he alludes, are " charts of Sebastian 
 Cabot, which are to be seen in the queen majesty's Privy 
 Gp";^ry at Whitehall," — evidently meaning the original 
 charts drawn by this seaman, and presented to the queen ;* 
 and Willes does not mention the engraved map at all, but 
 speaks of a table of Sebastian Cabot, which the father of 
 Lady Warwick had at Cheynics.f The argument, there- 
 fore, or rather the unfavourable inference created in the 
 mind of the reader by the biographer, which derives its 
 force from the supposition that Sir Humphrey Gilbert and 
 Richard Willes refer to the same document as Hakluyt, 
 namely, the engraved map by Clement Adams, falls com- 
 plj^tely to the grount'. If there had been any account of 
 the first discovery on the charts alluded to by Gilbert, and 
 the "table" mentioned by Willes, and in this account the 
 father's name had not appeared, there might be some pre- 
 
 ♦ Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 16. 
 
 t Historv of Travel in the West and East Indies, p. 232. 
 irol. Iii. p. 25, 26. 
 
 Hakluyt, 
 
 m 
 
 V I. 
 
an act of 
 
 s Gallery, 
 , have in- 
 
 expect an 
 s o show 
 ot' charts 
 il h leaves 
 tH kluyt's 
 I on Sebas- 
 .ry t* John 
 seen >ebas- 
 ind Richard 
 s navigator, 
 the reader 
 rpolated the 
 he fact wifi 
 5 narrated i» 
 alludes, and 
 engraved by 
 ription show 
 I. Sir Hura- 
 ^ states, that 
 1 of Sebastian 
 jesty's Privy 
 the original 
 the queen ;* 
 ap at all, but 
 the father of 
 ment, there- 
 reated in the 
 h derives its 
 ^ Gilbert and 
 as Hakluyt, 
 is, falls com- 
 lY account of 
 Gilbert, and 
 account the 
 be some pre- 
 
 232. Hakluyt, 
 
 VINDICATION OF HAKLUYT. 
 
 345 
 
 8umption against the elder Cabot ; but the writer of the 
 Memoir does not pretend there was any such account or 
 inscription on the charts and the table ; and to infer, from 
 the silence of Gilbert and Willes, either that Hakluyt had 
 altered the inscription, or that .' ..in Cabot could not have 
 Ijeen the original discoverer, is a remarkable instance of 
 vague and inconclusive reasoning. 
 
 This is the proper place to notice an extraordinary error, 
 or rather series of errors, fallen into by the biographer, re- 
 garding this same " extract." It is described by Hakluyt 
 as an *< extract taken out of the map of Sebastian Cabot, cut 
 -by Clement Adams, concerning his discovery of the West 
 Indies, which is to be seen in her majestie's Privy Gallery 
 at Westminster, and in many other ancient merchants* 
 houses." Clearer words, one would think, could scarcely 
 he employed to express the fact that a map engraved by 
 Adams hung in the Privy Gallery at Westminster, from 
 which Hakluyt, who was much about court, copied the ex- 
 tract or inscription which he has given at p. 6. Yet the 
 biographer has committed the singular blunder of supposing 
 -that it was the extract from the map, and not the map itself, 
 which was hung up in the Privy Gallery at Westminster, 
 and that it may be inferred that Hakluyt had never seen 
 the original map. " From the stress," says he, " laid by 
 Hakluyt and Purchas on the extract hung up in the Privy 
 Gallery at Whitehall, we may infer that they had never 
 seen the original map."* In this sentence there occurs a 
 second error, in imagining that both Hakluyt and Purchas 
 refer to the same document. The allusion by Purchas,! 
 however, is to one totally different. This author refers, not 
 to any extract taken from the map cut by Clement Adams, 
 but to " the words of a great map in his majesty's Privy 
 Gallery, of which Sebastian Cabot is often therein called 
 the author, and his picture is therein drawn," which map, 
 Purchas adds in the margin, " some say was taken out of 
 Sir Sebastian Cabot's map by Clement Adams ;" a sentence 
 proving, beyond a doubt, that these writers allude to differ- 
 ent works, — Hakluyt to the map of Clement Adams, Pur- 
 chas to a later one, supposed by some authors to be copied 
 from it. Lastly, in a succeeding sentence,t the author of 
 
 * Memoir of Cabot, p. 52. 
 i Memoir ol Cabot, p. 53, 
 
 t Purchas, vol. iii. p. 807, 
 
 •'•i 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 4- f ! 
 
 ] 
 
 I 
 
 jl 
 
346 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 the Memoir, when he hazards the conjecture that the map 
 by Adams was executed after Cabot's death, and therefore 
 without any communication from him, again widely errs 
 from the truth ; for had he consulted Purchas he would 
 have found that the map by Adams was published in 1549.* 
 Thus, in a sentence which occupies the short spfvce of 
 seven lines, three errors, and these of no trivial importance, 
 are committed. The first error is material ; because it in- 
 evitably leads the reader to belinve that Hakiuyt is only 
 giving an extract from an extract, whereas he is giving an 
 extract from an original which he had seen. The second 
 error is also important ; because it would induce us to infer 
 that Purchas and Hakiuyt resolve into one and the same 
 witness, whereas Purchas quotes a separate and additional 
 testimony ; for, it is to be observed, that, on a map en- 
 graved probably some time in the reign of James VI., there 
 was copied the same inscription as in the early map in 
 1549 ; from which we are entitled to conclude, that in the 
 interval nothing had transpired to invalidate the truth of the 
 inscription. Lastly, the third error is most material of all ; 
 because its effect is to lead us to consider the Latin inscrip- 
 tion copied by Hakiuyt from the map by Clement Adams as 
 of little or no weight in evidence, inst€ad of which it is, as 
 has already been shown in ihe text,t as nearly as possible 
 equivalent to a declaration of Sebastian Cabot himself. 
 
 The laboured endeavour to get rid of the overpowering 
 evidence of the inscription, by impeaching the accuracy and 
 integrity of the copy furnished by Hakiuyt, is thus singu- 
 larly unsuccessful ; and having failed in this point, the 
 author of the Life of Cabot passes over altogether the 
 proof which it contains. This, we think, may be taken for 
 a silent admission that, if correctly given, it proves that 
 John Cabot was the discoverer ; and we shall not fatigue 
 the reader by a repetition of the arguments given in the 
 text, only reminding him that it is there shown that the 
 inscription was written, probably from the information com- 
 municated, either by Sebastian or by some persons who 
 accompanied the voyage, and that the map where it occurs 
 must have been often seen by this navigator. 
 
 In his examination of the proofs of the personal agency 
 
 W ' ■ ^ i I 
 
 * Purchas, vol. iii. p. 807. 
 
 t Supra, p. 17 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLUTT. 
 
 347 
 
 of John Cabot, the biographer now arrives at the appear- 
 ance of his name in the letters-patent granted by the king. 
 These interesting documents, from their priority of date 
 and the importance of their evidence, every impartial in- 
 quirer would, we think, have ranked first ; hut he at once 
 assigns them the last place, and passes them very lightly 
 over. With the substance of these royal letters the reader 
 is already acquainted ;* and it is here sufficient to repeat 
 that the commission, in virtue of which the first voyage of 
 1497 was undertaken, during which North America was 
 discovered, is granted to John Cabot and his three sons, 
 while the second commission of 149S is not only granted to 
 John Cabot alone, but, alluding to the voyage already made, 
 descrihes him as the sole discoverer, " giving him permis- 
 sion to lead his ships to the land and isles of late found bi/ 
 the said John in the king's name, an'd by his command." 
 To escape from this clear and unanswerable assertion in a 
 document whose authenticity is higher than that of any 
 other which can he produced, the memorialist, trembling 
 for his favourite Sebastian, is driven to some very desperate 
 and amusing expedients. He first asserts, that the appear- 
 ance of the father's name in the first commission or patent 
 does not prove that he embarked in either of the expeditions. 
 Now, undoubtedly, if the first patent stood alone, the 
 father's name in that deed would not conclusively prove 
 that he conducted the first voyage, although a strong pre- 
 sumption that he did so might fairly be founded upon it ; 
 but it is evident the two patents, in estimating the evidence, 
 must be taken together, and how does the biographer get 
 rid of the second, which, in language neither to be evaded 
 nor misunderstood, distinctly asserts the fact of the dis- 
 covery by the said John, and by John only ; for no otlier 
 name but that of the father appears in the deed ? The 
 extraordinary theory by which he attempts to elude its 
 evidence will best be given in his own words. '• The 
 second patent," says he, " is to the father alone. If we 
 seek a reason for this departure from the original arrange- 
 ment, it may be conjectured that some of the sons chose 
 to give a different direction to a parental advance and 
 their personal exertions ; and that the head of the family 
 
 * Sapra, p. 16, 18. 
 
 i 
 
 ■» 
 
 or 
 f 
 
 ft 
 
 fi'. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 V. 
 
 
 i 
 
 Sit 
 
 n 
 
 
 
d48 
 
 API^ENDIl^. 
 
 thought fit to retain subject to his own discretionary die 
 posai the proposed investment of his remaining capital. 
 It is said that one of the sons settled at Venice, and the 
 other at Genoa. The recital of the discovery by the father 
 would of course be stated, under the circumstances, as 
 the consideration of the second patent in his favour. 
 Another reason for the introduction of the father's name 
 concurrently at first with his sons\ and afterward exclu- 
 sively, may perhaps be found in the wary character of the 
 king, whose own pecuniary interests were involved in the 
 result. He might be anxious thus to secure the responsi- 
 bility of the wealthy Venetian for the faithful execution of 
 the terms of the patent, and finally think it better to have 
 him solely named rather than commit powers, on their face 
 assignable, to young men who had no stake in the country, 
 and who were not likely to make it even a fixed place of 
 residence. On the whole, there may at least be a doubt 
 whether the father really accompanied the expedition."* It 
 is surely quite unnecessary to attempt a serious reply to 
 this singular passage, which, advancing from one step of 
 an improbable and unsupported hypothesis to another, lands 
 the reader at last in that conclusion of outrageous skepti- 
 cism which has just been quoted. The words of the second 
 commission state, a simple fact, " that the land and isles 
 were discovered by John Cabot.^* The biographer, in reply, 
 first talks discursively and at some length on the motives 
 which induced the sons, Lewis, Sanchez, and Sebastian, to 
 withdraw a capital which there is no proof they ever ad- 
 vanced, — subjects of little moment, — and he then at once 
 gets rid of the stubborn fact, that John Cabot is named 
 as the " sole discoverer," by the incidental remark, that 
 this would, of course, be stated as the ground of the 
 second patent, — a species of reply which irresistibly re- 
 minds us of the celebrated mode of getting rid of any diffi- 
 culty " by a concatenation." We leave the reader to form 
 his own conclusion from the words of the commission, with 
 no anxiety as to the result. 
 
 It is asserted that Hakluyt is guilty of perversion when 
 he describes John Cabot as " very expert and cunning in 
 the knowledge of the circuit of the world, and islands of the 
 
 * Memoir of Cabot, p. M. 
 
(tionary die 
 ing capital, 
 ce, and the 
 )y the father 
 nstances, as 
 his favour, 
 other's name 
 rward exclu- 
 racter of the 
 solved in the 
 the responsi- 
 execution of 
 letter to have 
 on their face 
 1 the country, 
 xed place of 
 5t be a doubt 
 )edition."* It 
 ious reply to 
 n one step of 
 another, lands 
 ageous skepti- 
 3 of the second 
 land and isles 
 pher, in reply, 
 m the motives 
 Sebastian, to 
 they ever ad- 
 then at once 
 |abot is named 
 remark, that 
 round of the 
 irresistibly re- 
 id of any diffi- 
 jrcader to form 
 imission, with 
 
 [rversion when 
 
 id cunning in 
 
 islands of the 
 
 VINDICATION OF HAKLUYT. 
 
 949 
 
 same, as by a sea-card, and other demonstrations reasonable, 
 he shewed;"* and in the same breath the biographer pro»- 
 ceeds to arraicfn Campbell, Macpherson, and Barrow of 
 folly, because they speak of him as a scientific and able sea- 
 man, there being no proof that he was any thing else than 
 a merchant who dwelt in England.! Now when Hakluyt, in 
 a writing of unquestionable authenticity (the first royal com- 
 mission just quoted), found John Cabot intrusted with the 
 command of a squadron of five ships, which was empowered 
 to sail on a voyage of discovery to all countries and seas 
 of the east, west, and north, he certainly cannot be ho 
 cused of having committed any grievous infringement upon 
 truth or probability when he described him as a seaman ; 
 and when, in another document of almost equal authority 
 (the inscription on the map by Clement Adams), he ob* 
 served it stated that he, along with his son Sebastian, were 
 the first who discovered North America, are we to be told 
 that he was guilty of excessive exaggeration, when he drew 
 the inference which every discerning and impartial mind 
 would be inclined to derive from the same facts, that the 
 author of such a discovery must have been an excellent 
 navigator and cosmographer ] Nor is it a fair mode of 
 reasoning to accuse Campbell and Barrow as guilty of a 
 thoi'isand absurdities, when they describe John Cabot as an 
 " accomplished seaman, a skilful pilot, or an intrepid navi- 
 gator, "t These writers, it is to be recollected, had before 
 them the letters-patent in Rymer, and the inscription by 
 Adams, instrur.ients which had in no way been perverted ; 
 and from an examination of these they arrived at the con- 
 clusion, to which every reader is inevitably led, that he who 
 possessed the inventive mind to plan this new course to 
 India by the north-west, who had in person commanded the 
 expedition and successfully achieved the discovery, must 
 have been, both as a practical and a scientific navigator, a 
 man of no ordinary character and acquirements. 
 
 It is difficult, within the limits to which we must confme 
 these remarks, to reply to the various accusations against 
 Hakluyt which are scattered throughout the pages of this 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 9. 
 tllnd. p. 46, 50, 51. 
 
 t Memoir of Cabot, p. 46, 47, 50, 51. 
 
 *>A 
 
 i i 
 
 I' 
 
 w 
 
 Ml 
 
 
 
 S 'l 
 
 vl 
 
 i 
 
 n 
 
360 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ir 
 
 j 
 
 Memoir ; besides, we do not profess to write a full vindica- 
 tion of that excellent author. He is arraigned of ignorance 
 and carelessness as a translator, of a want of integrity in 
 regard to the sense of his original, and of appropriating to 
 himself passages from other authors without acknowledg- 
 ment. The gravest accusation, that of wilfully altering the 
 sense of his original, has been satisfactorily answered 
 already ; but we venture to say that few who are acquainted 
 with his amusing and instructive volumes will not be aston- 
 ished at the charge of plagiarism. A conscientious and 
 even tedious scrupulosity in giving the names of every indi- 
 vidual from whorri h> has derived his information is one of 
 the most striking features of his work. The third volume 
 of the second edition of his voyages happens to be now on 
 the table before us : it consists of about 158 separate docu- 
 ments, and we will venture to say, that of these there is 
 not one upon which the i)iographer can support a charge 
 of any thing approaching to serious and premeditated plagia- 
 rism ; not one in which, if the author's name is known, it 
 is not anxiously mentioned ; or, if it is unknown, where the 
 anonymous paper is not given in such a way that it cannot 
 possibly be attributed to the compiler himself. Even the 
 two instances in this volume quoted against him by the 
 biographer do not in fair reasoning form an exception. 
 
 No one who has read Hakluyt's preface will be disposed 
 to think with severity of the slight alterations which, with 
 the honest intention of presenting the whole truth before 
 his reader, he has occasionally introduced into the abstracts, 
 notes, and translations, which form the great body of his 
 work. His earnest desire, as he himself declares, " was to 
 adjust the displaced and scattered limbs, as well of ancient 
 and late voyages by sea as of travels by land, and traffic 
 of merchandise by both, into one regular body ; restoring 
 each divided and dislocated member to its natural order and 
 symmetry, and by the help of geography and chronology, 
 the sun and moon, or right and left eye of all history, refer- 
 ring each particular narration to its due time and place." 
 That in accomplishing this laudab'e object he has sometimes 
 used rather undue liberties with his documents, may be 
 admitted ; but even in the most remarkable of these instances 
 of alleged mistranslation and iiiterpolation which the biogra- 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLVYT. 
 
 861 
 
 pher has brought against him, the passages are fivjc accu- 
 rately given in the original language, a mode of proceeding 
 which completely establishes the honesty of his intentions. 
 It is vain to accuse of fraudulent interpolation a writer 
 who first warns the reader that he must be prepared to find 
 some of the translations of the documents which he has 
 presented partially transposed, and corrected by the help 
 of geography and chronology, and who carefully quotes, in 
 the same page, the passages in the oriuinMl, before he pre- 
 sents them in the shape which he believes consistent with 
 truth. If this be fraud, it possesses a very singular charac- 
 ter ; it is fraud which courts detection ; it is forgery, studi- 
 ously placing in the hands of all readers the documents by 
 which its iniquity may be traced and established. 
 
 With regard to the attack made upon this writer for his 
 ignorance and mistranslation, the author of the Life of 
 Cabot, we think, in considering Hakluyt's voluminous 
 labours, consisting of three folio volumes, might have been 
 disposed to pardon a few inaccuracies of this nature. They 
 will insinuate themselves, however anxious we may be to 
 avoid them, into all humnn productions ; and he who has 
 spent most time in works requiring multifarious research, 
 and the painful examination of ancient authorities, will be 
 the most disposed to view with lenient eyes the errors of 
 such as are similarly occupied. If the biographer will turn 
 to his own Memoir (p. 240) he will find in Pasquiligi's de- 
 scription of the captives the following sentence : " Hanno 
 signata la faza in modo de Indiani : chi da vi., chi da viii., 
 chi da manco segni." Their faces they have punctured like 
 Indians^ some with six, some with eight, some with fewer 
 marks. In the Memoir, it is thus translated, " They punc- 
 ture the face, like the Indians, exhibiting six, eight, or even 
 more marks." Do not let the biographer imagine that we 
 have quoted this erroneous version of a very simple passage 
 with the view of accusing him of ignorance, or that there is 
 the slightest intention of insinuating that he did not know 
 that the four words '' chi da manco segni" meant " some 
 with fewer marks." The oversight is pointed out as an 
 example of the occasional mistranslations or mistakes into 
 which, with every desire to be accurate, even a well-informed 
 writer will occasionally fall, that he may be inclined to ex- 
 tend to the labours of others that charity of criticism with 
 
 f 
 
 J 
 
 > I 
 
 II 
 
 I' 
 
 i! 
 
852 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 It- 
 
 which he would wish that every liberal nrtnd should regard 
 his own.* 
 
 The author of the Life of Cabot was perfectly entitled to 
 maintain the theory that Sebastian, the son, and not John 
 Cabot, the father, was the discoverer of North America ; 
 but he was not entitled to adopt, what we must denominate 
 the disingenuous method of making an impresHlon upon the 
 reader's mind by silently dropping the name of the latter 
 out of passages where, if he Inid stated the whole truth, he 
 ought to have mentioned both. Thus, at page 174 we find 
 this remark : "At his return [Sebastian] Cabot settled in 
 Bristol, ***** fifty-three years after the date 
 of his first commission from Henry VII." Again, page 
 222, we find this notice : " Sixty-one years had now elapsed 
 since the date of the first commission from Henry VII. to 
 Sebastian Cabot, and the powers of nature must have been 
 absolutely wearied out." Again, page 235, we have another 
 more glaring example of this determination to keep the 
 father entirely out of view : "The bare mention of these 
 dates will establish the impossibility that he could have been 
 ignorant of the great discoveries of Cabot [it is Sebastian 
 he is speaking of J, which, commencing at the point seen on 
 the 24th June, 1497, had extended over the ' londe and isle* 
 recited in the second patent." In the first and second of 
 these sentences John Cabot's name is entirely suppressed, 
 although the commission spoken of was directed to him, 
 along with his three sons ; and in the last, the entire 
 merit of the discovery is ascribed to Sebastian, at the mo- 
 ment the biographer is quoting the words of the secofid 
 eommission, which positively attributes it to John. 
 
 Allusion has already been shortly made to the " evidence" 
 contained in the inscription upon an ancient portrait of 
 Sebastian Cabot ; but we must be allowed, for a moment, 
 to add a few words upon this proof, which is very important 
 and conclusive. I'here is now in existence a portrait of 
 this navigator, by Holbein, for a minute history of which we 
 refer the reader to the Appendix to the Memoir of Cabot.f 
 
 * In Uie same jiassnge from Pasquiligi, another oversight occurs: 
 " Nela terra loro non hanno ferro; nia ranno cortelli de alcune pietre." 
 Memoir or ( 'ahot. p 240. "In their country ihey do not possess iron, 
 but they muke knives of particular kinds of stones." The biographer 
 translates cortelli swords 
 
 t Memoir of Cabot, Appendix, LeUer F. p. 333. 
 
 ^^.. 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLVVT. 
 
 363 
 
 lould regard 
 
 ly entitled to 
 nd not John 
 h America ; 
 (ieiioininate 
 ion upon the 
 >f the hitter 
 lole truth, he 
 174 we find 
 )ot settled in 
 ter the date 
 Again, page 
 now elapsed 
 enry VI I. to 
 i8t have heen 
 have another 
 to keep the 
 tion of these 
 jid have been 
 is Sebastian 
 point seen on 
 onde and isle* 
 id second of 
 \/ suppressed, 
 cted to him, 
 t, the entire 
 , at the mo- 
 f the second 
 )hn. 
 " evidence" 
 portrait of 
 a moment, 
 ry important 
 portrait of 
 of which we 
 Ir of Cabot. t 
 
 Irsight occurs: 
 (alcune pieire." 
 possesR iron, 
 L'hti biographer 
 
 It is sufficient for our purpose to remark, that it is acknow- 
 ledged to be an original, for which Sebastian sat to the 
 artist, and which, in the time of Purchas, hung in the 
 Privy Gallery at Whitehall. Upon this picture is the fol- 
 lowing inscription : " Kfligies Seb. Caboti Angli, filii Jo- 
 hannisCaboti Veneti Militia Aurati, Primi Inventoris Terra 
 NovjB sub Henrico VII. Anglije Rege." It is evident, by 
 the common rules of granmintical construction, that the 
 words Militis Aurati, Primi Invtntoris Terraj Novib sub 
 Henrico VII. Anglias Rege, apply exclusively to John Cabot ; 
 and if so, they contain a positive assertion that John was 
 the first discoverer of North America. Now, the authen- 
 ticity of the picture being undoubted, the inscription fur- 
 nishes as convincing a piece of evidence as could well be 
 conceived. And again, it may be fairly argued, that the 
 circumstance of the words Militis Aurati being found united 
 with the name of John Cabot, by which it is proved that the 
 king had conferred on him, and not on Sebastian, the hon- 
 our of knighthood, afTords the strongest presumption that 
 it was John who was the original discoverer. 
 
 This remark leads us, in the last place, to expose an ex- 
 traordinary series of errors committed by the biographer, 
 in relation to this Latin inscription on the picture. Ho has 
 accused Dr. Henry, Dr. Campbell, and the authors of the 
 Biographia Britannica of an absurd misconception, in ima- 
 gining that the words Militis Aurati indicate that John 
 Cabot had been knighted. But it is justice to let him speak 
 for himself. He first demonstrates that the words Miles 
 Auratus cannot possibly apply to the son Sebastian, after 
 which he proceeds thus : — " The point being thus clear 
 with regard to the son, other writers have assumed, as a 
 matter of course, that the distinction (of knighthood) must 
 have been conferred on John Cabot." " Accordingly, 
 Campbell, in his Lives of the Admirals, has an article en- 
 titled Sir John Cabot. Dr. Henry informs us, in his His- 
 tory of Britain, vol. vi. p. 618, that John Cabot was gra- 
 ciously received and knighted on his return, and the same 
 statement is repeated in the Biographia Britannica." " To 
 the utter confusion" he continues, "of all thess grave au- 
 thorities, a moment^s consideration will show that iSe words 
 relied on do in themselves prove that knighthood had not been 
 conferred. It is scarcely necessary to follow up this sug- 
 
 Gg8 
 
 M 
 
 r 
 
 ,\ 
 
 * 1^- 
 
• »\ 
 
 354 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 gestion, by stating, that in reference to one who had re- 
 ceived that honour, they would have beeti^ not Militis Auratii 
 biit Equitis Aurati. Though the term Miles is sometimes 
 applied in old documents even to peers, yet, as a popular 
 designation, the language of the inscription negatives the 
 idea of knighthood. In the very works immediately con- 
 nected with the subject of the present volume, the appro- 
 priate phrase perpetually occurs. Thus, Eqves Auratus is 
 wsed to designate Sir Humphrey Gilbert (Hakluyt, vol. iii. 
 p. 137); Sir Hugh Willoughby, ib. p. 142; Sir Martin 
 Fiobisher, ib. p. 142 ; Sir Francis Drake, ib. p. 143. In 
 the dedication of Lok's translation of Peter Martyr, it is rn 
 like minner used, and we see it at this moment on the ' Ef- 
 figies' of Sir Walter Raleigh, prefixed to the first edition of 
 his History of the World. It will probably be deemed very 
 superfluous to refer to Selden's Titles of Honour (p. 830) 
 for a confirmation of what has been stated. The weight of 
 censure must fall on Purchas, who was originally guilty of 
 the blunder^* 
 
 One would have thought that the writer must have been 
 very sure of the ground on which he stood before he ven- 
 tured to assume so lofty and decisive a tone, — and y« t we are 
 altogether at a loss for expressions which may mark cour- 
 teously, and yet strongly, the combination of error, igno- 
 rance, and absurdity presented by this extraordinary sen- 
 tence. He first argues, tluU the wonL Miles Auratus are 
 never used to denote a knight ; and, secondly, that where 
 they are used, they " do in themselves prove that knight- 
 hood had not been conferred." Now, fortunately, the biog- 
 rapher allows that Sir Humphrey Gilbert was a knight, in- 
 deed he is one of his own examples of Equites Aurati. 
 Keeping this in mind, we request him to turn to Holland's 
 celebrated and well-known work, the Heroologia Anglise, 
 containing the engraved portraits of the most eminent Eng- 
 lish warriors, navigators, st:>tesmen, and ecclesiastical re- 
 formers, who flourished in England from 1500 to 1620. 
 He will there find, at p. 65, vol. i., a beautiful head of Sir 
 Humphrey Gilbert, and around it the following inscription, 
 
 " HUMFRIDUS GlI.BERTUS, MiLES AuRATUS." Do thcse 
 
 words prove here that knighthood had not been conferred ? 
 
 Memoir of Cabot, p. 183. 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLUYT. 
 
 355 
 
 10 had re- 
 
 itis Auratit 
 
 sometimes 
 
 a popular 
 
 gatives the 
 
 liately con- 
 
 the appro- 
 
 Auratus is 
 
 Livt» vol. iii. 
 
 Sir Martin 
 
 p. 143. In 
 
 rtyr, it is in 
 
 on the ' Ef- 
 
 3t edition of 
 
 leemed very 
 
 our (p. 830) 
 
 le weight of 
 
 lly guilty of 
 
 ;t have been 
 fore he ven- 
 id y< t we are 
 ' mark cour- 
 error, igno- 
 fdinary sen- 
 Auratus are 
 , that where 
 [that knight- 
 ly, the biog- 
 |a knight, in- 
 ites Aurati. 
 to Holland's 
 gia Angliae, 
 [ninent Eng- 
 siastical re- 
 \0 to 1620. 
 head of Sir 
 inscription, 
 Do these 
 conferred 1 
 
 Again, we beg him to turn to another engraving in the 
 same work, the portrait of the celebrated Sir Richard Gren- 
 ville, of whose knighthood there is not the smallest doubt. 
 It will be found at page 85 of the first volume of Holland's 
 work, and it is thus inscribed around the margin, — " Ricii- 
 ARDUs Grenvilus, Mil. Aur. :" (Miles Auratus.) But the 
 biographer has quoted the famous Sir Francis Drake, as 
 illustrating his argument. He points triumphantly to him 
 as an undoubted knight, being styled Eques Auratus, and 
 to whom, therefore, the words Miles Auratus could not pos- 
 sibly be applied. Once more, we beg him to turn to the 
 Heroologia, vol. i. page 105. He will there see a striking 
 portrait of Drake, with his hand resting on the globe, and 
 these words round the margin of the print, — "Franciscus 
 Drake, Milks Auratus." One other example may be 
 given of the common use of those words to denote knight- 
 hood, which, according to the positive assertion of our 
 author, are never found together, and which, if used, prove 
 that this honour had not been conferred. It is the first 
 sentence in Holland's Life of Sir John Harrington, Heroo.- 
 logia, p je 133. "Joannes Harington filius na.tu maximus 
 Clarissiini Militis Jacobi Haringtoni de Exton, in Comitatu 
 Rutlandie, Equestri seu Militis Aurati dignitate multis 
 abhinc annis a beatissimae memoriae Regina Elizabetha 
 insignitus fuit." It need hardly be pointed out to the intel- 
 ligent reader, that this brief sentence of four lines, in its use 
 of the word Miles by itself to denote knighthood, and Miles 
 Auratus, as synonymous with the terms dignitas Equestris, 
 overturns the whole argument of the biographer, who not 
 only contends that the expression Miles Auratus is never 
 used as descriptive of knighthood, but that, except in an- 
 cient deeds, the single word Miles never occurs. Had he 
 taken the trouble to consult any friend who possessed even 
 a superficial acquaintance with the language in which the 
 inscription was written, he must have discovered that the 
 words Eques Auratus, Miles Auratus, Eoues by itself, and 
 Miles by itself, are used indiscriminately in modern Latin 
 to denote knighthood ; and that the " absurd misconcep- 
 tion" imputed to others existed nowhere but in his own 
 ideas. 
 
 But even had we not been able to quote such unanswer- 
 able instances as Hum])hrGy, Grcnville, Drake, and Har» 
 
 41 
 
 I 
 
356 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 i' • 
 
 i 
 
 bMII 
 
 rfngton, it is singular that it should not have occurred to 
 this writer that the words Miles Auratus upon John Cabot's 
 portrait must necessarily have had some meaning, — that 
 they must either be literally translated, or be understood to 
 express knighthood. Now this last he will not allow them 
 to denote ; and the only meaning he affixes to them is, that 
 they " negative the idea of knighthood, and prove that such 
 an honour had not been conferred." We are driven then 
 to a literal interpretation ; and it is impossible for him, ac- 
 cording to the principle he has laid down, to give any other 
 translation than this : " The portrait of Jsebastian rabot. 
 Englishman, son of John Cabot the Venetian, a golden eol- 
 <lier, but by no means a knight," Such is the singular and 
 amusing interpretation whirh, had he weighed his own 
 assertion for a moment, or had he exerted that spirit of dili- 
 gent, accurate, and extensive /«j»earch (we are using his 
 own words) to which he lays claim,* the biographer must 
 have found it necessary to adopt. These various errors 
 have been pointed out with no other feeluig than a desire 
 of showing the recklessness of the attack upon Campbell, 
 Henry, and the authors of the Biographia Britannica. It is 
 •difficult, indeed, to repress a smile when we compare the 
 bitterness and severity of the criticism with the extreme 
 ignorance of the critic ; and in taking leave of this subject, 
 we may be permitted to hope that the recollection of his 
 •chapter on the words Miles Auratus will induce the cham- 
 pion of Sebastian Cabot to revise his Latin, and to be more 
 lenient to the real or supposed mistakes of his predecessors 
 <ind contemporaries. 
 
 It has been shown, we trust, to the satisfaction of every 
 one who will impartially weigh the evidence, that John 
 Cabot was the discoverer of North America ; and it is satis- 
 factory to find that all that may be called the contemporary 
 proofs^ — the first commission in Rymer, the brief narrative 
 on the map by Clement, the words of the second commis- 
 sion, and the inscription on the picture, — confirm the con- 
 clusion that this Venetian was entitled to the honour. Be- 
 fore, however, concluding these remarks, we may add a 
 single word on the testimony of later authd 'is. Fabyan, or 
 the contemporary writer, for he is spokei of under both 
 
 Introduction to M«moir of Cftbot, p. i. 
 
t 
 
 VINDICATION OF HAKLTJYT. 
 
 357 
 
 denominations, Bacon, De Thou, and Speed, are all cited by 
 the biographer as exclusively in favour of the title of Se- 
 bastian. " We have the best evidence," says he (p. 44), 
 *' that the contemporary writer, whoever he may have been, 
 made not the slightest allusion to the father. Bacon, vSpced, 
 Thuanus, &c. all furnish the same statement." Now, with 
 regard to Fabyan, in his printed Chronicle there is no allu- 
 sion, either to the original discovery on the 24th June, 1497, 
 or to the subsequent voyage of Sebastian Cabot in 1498 ; 
 and as to the supposed manuscript Chronicle which is 
 stated by Stow to have been in his possession, it appears to 
 have perished, and we have no mode of ascertaining its 
 import, except through the note of Hakluyt, which, as far 
 as it goes, is nowise against the claim of John Cabot. Nay, 
 even granting that (to the contrary of which we have strong 
 proof) in Stow's Chronicle, published in 1605, occurs the 
 very passage of the lost manuscript of Fabyan, and that in 
 this passage Schastiaa Cabot, a Genoa's son, born in Bris- 
 tol, is alone mentioned ; still the reader is already aware of 
 the conclusive ans-iver, namely, that the passage relates, not 
 to the first voyage of 1497, but to the second voyage of 
 1498, of which all are agreed that Sebastian Cabot had the 
 command. But another evidence in favour of Sebastian as 
 the original discoverer is said to be found in Lord Bacon's 
 Life of Henry VIL VVe can scarcely persuade ourselves 
 that any one who makes this assertion can have attentively 
 studied the remark in question, so evidently 1 -is it allude, 
 we think, where it mentions Sebastian, to the s';. ond voyage 
 of 1498, and not to the original voyage of i'-?'. That 
 Bacon was aware this was not the first diooove^y, md that 
 he had a vague knowledge of a prior voyage, ni which the 
 continent of America was originally found aut, is ev> ieat 
 from this sentence : " And there had bee! efore that time 
 a discovery of some lands, which they took to be islands, 
 and were, indeed, the continent of America towards the 
 north-west." Again, as if anxious to warn the reader as to 
 there having been a prior discovery, he says, '* But this 
 Gabato bearing the kin^r in hand that he would find out an 
 island endued with rich commodities, procured him to man 
 and victual a ship at Bristol, for the discovery of thaf 
 island, with whom ventured also three small ships of Lon- 
 don merchants, fraught with some gross and slight wares, 
 
 ji 
 
 5 
 
358 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ir 
 
 
 li 
 
 ^il ill 
 ^f 111! 
 
 "til 
 
 fit for commerce with barbarous people."* It is evident 
 that Lord Bacop is here making use of the passage in Stow, 
 employing, witli some slight alterations, its very words. 
 So far, however, from containing a proof that the merit of 
 the original discovery belongs to Sebastian, it warns the 
 reader that the continent had already been found in some 
 prior voyage, although no name is given, and the date is 
 left uncertain. The observation of the biographer, there- 
 fore, that Bacon makes no allusion to the father, is literally 
 correct ; but the inference drawn from it, that therefore 
 Bacon's testimony goes to support the claim of Sebastian 
 as the original discoverer, is completely excluded when the 
 passage comes to be narrowly examined. 
 
 As to De Thou, this great writer, so far as we have 
 looked throujjh his voluminou.^ historical work, contains no 
 passage upon the subject of eithei voyage ; and the same 
 observation applies to such editions of Ci-afton, Holinshed, 
 Hall, and Harding as we have had an oppo -tunity of con- 
 sulting. It has been already remarked that the sentence 
 quoted from Stow, which the biographer erroneously con- 
 ceives to offer a proof that Sebastian had the sole charge of 
 the voyage of 1497, in which the discovery was made, 
 relates solely to the second voyage of 1498. t With regard 
 to Speed, whom he ilso quotes as, along with Bacon and 
 De Thou, making no allusion to the father, the same 
 answer strictly applies, — the only voyage of which he takes 
 notice being the second, in 1498, as is distinctly fixed by 
 his observation that it took place after the apprehension of 
 Perkin Warbeck.t It is very evident, however, that the 
 biographer was bound to show that Bacon, Stow, and 
 <?peed had given an account of the first voyage of 1497, in 
 Which the discovery was made, and in that account had in- 
 troduced no allusion to the father, before he was entitled, 
 from their omission, to draw any argument against him. In 
 this, however, he has totally failed. 
 
 The fact is certainly remarkable that, while in contem- 
 porary documents of unquestionable authority we find con- 
 
 * Bacon's Henry VII. in Kennet, vol. i. p. 624. 
 
 t Stow's Chronicles by Howe, edition 1631, p. 481. 
 
 i Speed's History of Greal Britain, p. "44, edition 1511, In the edition 
 of Speed's work published in 1632, there is no mention of the voyage of 
 either of the Cabots. 
 
VINDICATION OF HAKLT7YT. 
 
 359 
 
 vincing proof of th» ery having been mdcle by John 
 
 Cabot, in none of t tgiish annalists or historians who 
 
 treat of the reign of cnry VII. do we see any account of 
 the first voyage, while many of them have distinctly record€d 
 the circumstances of the second. But of this it is not 
 difficult to discover the reason. The first voyage was a 
 private adventure or experiment by John Cabot, and proba- 
 bly little known or talked of l)eyond the city of Bristol. It 
 was undertaken at the expense, not of *he crown, but of the 
 individual; and after having n 1e the discovery, Cabot 
 appears to have returned at once without exploring the 
 coast, to make preparations for a voyage on a more extended 
 scale. When he reached England, in the month of August, 
 1497, ^eing shortly after the commencement of the thirteenth 
 year of Henry's reign, he found the sovereign and his king- 
 dom in a state of extreme anxiety and confusion. The 
 king was engrossed with an invasion of the Scots, with a 
 formidable rebellion in (Cornwall, and a new rising in favour 
 of Warbeck, th? leader of which threatened to pluck the 
 crown from his head and give it to that adventurer, who, 
 early in September, had landed from Ireland and assumed 
 the title of Richard IV. It was upon these great events, — 
 the attacks of his enemies, and the measures adopted to 
 defeat them, — that the minds of the contrmporary writi rs, 
 and of the succeedinii chroniclers and annalists, were nat- 
 urally concentrated ; and, engrossed with them, they paid 
 little attention to the discovery of a private merchant of 
 Bristol. It is for this reason, we apprehend, that we in 
 vain look in Fabyan and in Stow for any detailed account, 
 or even incidental mention, of the discovery of 1497. 
 
 The circumstances, however, under which the second 
 voyage, in 1498, took place, which all are agreed was con- 
 ducted solely bv Sebastian Cabot, were completely difterent. 
 It was undertaken at the expense of the king, who furnished 
 the sh'pvS ; it contemplated a scheme of settlement and 
 colonization, in which all the ardent rind mterprising spirits 
 in the nation were invited to co-operate. Many, there is 
 reason to believe, did embark in the undertaking ; and, 
 instead of merely landing on the island and returning home, 
 the voyage embraced the discovery of a large tract of coast, 
 till that period unknown. If to this we add the considera- 
 tion that, about the time when the second expedition must 
 
 \ 
 
 11 
 
sao 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 I' 
 
 have returned to Bristol, the kingdom was in profound peace/ 
 both at home and abroad, it will not be difficult to understand 
 why this voyage should constitute the event upon which the 
 attention of our national annalists has been exclusively 
 fixed ; while the former, in which the discovery was un- 
 doubtedly made, has been passed over by them altogether. 
 But although chroniclers and historians may fall into many 
 errors of omission, the original muniments of the country 
 and the period remain ; and these, combined with the nar- 
 rative upon the map and the inscription on the ancient 
 portrait, completely establish the fact that John Cabot, the 
 Venetian, was, in 1497, the discoverer of North America, 
 under a commission from Henry VII. This portion of 
 historical truth, which has hitherto certainly been sur- 
 rounded with much obscurity and appartr ' contradiction, 
 and of late absolutely denied by the biographer of Cabot, 
 has now, we trust, been established upon grounds which 
 cannot easily be shaken. 
 
 I 
 
 THK END. 
 
md peactff 
 nderstand 
 which the 
 xchisively 
 J was un- 
 iltogether. 
 into many 
 le country 
 Lh the nar- 
 le ancient 
 Cabot, the 
 I America, 
 portion of 
 been sur- 
 itradiction, 
 r of Cabot, 
 anda which 
 
 ; ♦-' 
 
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 Adventures of a Father and Mother and 
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 ..« 
 
ED, ^ 
 
 BINSON; or, 
 
 d Mother and 
 id. From the 
 atly improved. 
 :. <fc HI. of the 
 
 ] 
 
 ect a more accept- 
 ear's gift." — New 
 
 of adventure and 
 poe such a wonder 
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 of the interesting 
 Idressed."— jY. Y, 
 
 volumes to those 
 
 cannot over-estl* 
 
 IS well calculated 
 o convey to their 
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 cannot fail to in- 
 iaders for whom 
 
 
 that it will seem 
 &t the same time 
 al instruction in 
 f contriving and 
 e very best pre- 
 ' — Boston Daily 
 
 volumes in the 
 Advertiser. 
 
 haltem, Prov.