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(

VANCOUVER ISLAND PILOT.

SUPPLEMENT.

COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
FROM QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO

PORTLAND CANAL,

INCLCDING

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

COMriLED CHIEFLY FROM ADMIEALTY SURVEYS.

rUBLISUED BY OBDER Or TUE LOBDS COMMISSrONEKS OF THE ADMIRALTY,

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMIRALTY.

AM> SOLD BY

J. D. POTTER, Agent fob thh sale of Admiralty Charts,
31, POULTRY, AND 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL.

1883.

Price Three Shillings,

I ^1

i^j'*

ADVERTISEMENT.

5
M

The Vancouver Island Pilot Supplement contains sailing direc-
tions for the coast of Biitish Columbia between Queen Charlotte
sound and Portland canal, and for the adjacent inner channels.
Also a description of Queen Charlotte islands.

Those relating to the coast of British Columbia and the inner
channels have been chiefly derived from surveys conducted by
StafF-Commander D. Pender, R.N., during the yeai*s 1864-70,
under the directions of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.

The descriptions of Queen Charlotte islands have been derived
from the Report on those islands by G. M. Dawson, Esq., F.G.S.,
published by the Government of Canada, 1880, to which has been
added the published directions resulting from a visit of H.M.S.
Virago in 1853,

In this Supplement, the most recent information derived from
the Remark books of Officers of Her Majesty's ships, and from
other sources has also been embodied.

F. J. E.

Hyd. graphic Office, Admiralty, London,
June 1883.

Q SOie. Wt. 14378.

mi»m^BlkmmU}i\ im\v*\m

^"■■"■"■wpp*^

',(

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

INNER CHANNELS.-M5UEEN CHAELOTTE SOUND TO SEAPORTH

'.r

CHANNEL,

General remarks. Shadwell passage. Cape Caution. Sea Otter group

South passage. Smith sound
Alexandra passage. Beaver passages. Long point
Takush herbour. Fitz-Hugh sound
Cape Calvert. Schooner retreat
Safety cove. Coldstream harbour. Namu harbour
Burke channel. Lama passage. Cooper inlet -
McLaughlin bay. Bella Bella islands. Klick-Tso-Atli harbour. Gun

boat passage -.---..
Seaforth channel. Kynumpt harbour. Cod bank. Anchorage

CHAPTER II.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

Landmark)!. Discovery rock. Vancouver rock

Cross ledge. Beaver bank. Price island

Directions approaching Millbank sound. Mathieson channel. St. John

harbour. Anchorage. Caution ....
Port Blakeney. Tides. Supplies. Directions. Morris bay. Direc

tions. Anchorage --..-.
Alexandra passage. Schooner passage, Finlayson channel -
Cone island. Carter bay. Hie Kish narrows - - -

Klemtoo passage. North passage. Tolmie channel. Graham reach
Fraser reach. Wark island. McKay reach. Wright sound -
Holmes bay. Promise island. Coghlan anchorage. Tidal streams
Grenville channel. Lowe inlet - . - - -

Klewnuggit inlet. Stuart anchorage - - - .

False Stuart anchorage. Kennedy island. Arthur passage
Lawson harbour. Chismore passage. Malacca passage. Skeena river
Telegraph passage. Port Essington • - . . .

CHAPTER III.

Page

1-6

6-8

8-10

10-12

12-14

14-16

16-18
18-19

20-22
22-23

24-26

26-28
28-29
30-32
32-34
34-36
36-38
39-40
40-42
42-43
44-46
46-47

CHATHAM SOUND, EDYE AND BROWN PASSAGES AND DIXON

ENTRANCE.

Chatham sound, general remarks. Landmarks, Dangers. Soundings.
Anchorages - - - - • -« - 48-^0

CONTENTS.

Southern portion. Tsimsean peninsula. Metlah-Catlah, Duncan
bay. Tides .....-.-

Tree bluff. Big bay, directions - . - . .

Burnt cliff island. Finlayaon island. Pearl harbour - . .

Sparrowhawk rock. Cunningham passage. Port Simpson. Directions

Inskip passage. Fort Simpson. Indian villages. Climate. Tides -

Prescott and Stephens islands. Edye passage. Gijschen island. Re-
fuge bay. Tides .-..-.-

Brown passage. Qlawdzeet anchorage. Tides ...

Dundas islands. Moffatt islands .....

Hammond rock. Main passage. Oriflamme passage. Gnarled islands.
Dixon entrance .......

Cape Fox. Lord islands. Tongas islands. Wales island

Tides. Winds. Fogs. Climate .....*

Page

50-66
56-58
58-59
60-63
63-67

67-70
70-72
72-73

74-76
76-77
77-79

CHAPTER IV.

INNER WATERS. — LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Laredo sound. Nab rock. North Bay islands. Directions. Laredo

channel. Campania sound .---.- 80-84

Squally channel. Lewis passage. Farrant island ... 84-86

Union passage. Estevan sound. Campania island ... 86-88

Breaker point. Nepean sound. Otter passage. Principe channel . 88-90

Port Stephens. Mink Trap bay. Port Canaveral. Directions, Tides 90-93

CHAPTER V.

OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Calvert island. Hakai channel. Welcome harbour. Tides. Directions 94-97

Nalau passage. Queen's sound. Plumper channel. Hecate channel - 97-98

Bardswell group. Gander islands. Estevan island ... 99-101

Banks island. South rocks. Bonila island. Ogden channel - 102-106

Spicer island. Beaver passage. Schooner passage ... 106-107

Alpha bay. Soundings- ...... i08

CHAPTER VI.

PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS AND PORTLAND CANAL.

Portland inlet. Somerville island. Portland point. Nass bay - 109-112

Iceberg bay. Nass river. Observatory inlet .... 113-115
Salmon cove. Alice arm. Portland canal, Current. Climate.

Supplies 115-118

Dog fish bay. Halibut bay. Centre islan'l. Pirie point. Round

point. Salmon river. Anchorage - . . - . 119-124

CONTENTS.

Vll

CHAPTER VII.

QUEEN CHARLOrrE ISLANDS.

Pnge
General remarks. Prevost island. Cape St. James. Houston Stewart

channel, directions. Rose harbour. Moresby island - - 125-128

Carpenter bay. Collison bay. Skincuttle inlet. Burnaby strait and

island. Skaat harbour ....-- 129-132

Juan Perez sound. Ramsay island, &c. Remarks. Lyell island - 1.32-134
Darwin sound. Tides. Shuttle island. Echo harbour. Klun Kwoi bay.

Crescent islet. Laskeek bay. Richardson inlet. Tides - - 134-136

Dana and Selwyn inlets. Rockfish harbour. Cumshewa inlet, re-
marks. Skidegate inlet and channel. Directions. Tides - - 137-143
The coast. Capes Ball and Fife. Rose point. Hecate strait. Masset

sound and inlets. Virago sound .... - 143-150

Parry passage. North island. Cape Knox. Skidegate channel. Inskip

and Moore channels. Mitchell harbour. Tasoo harbour. Supphes.

Weather 151-156

IMT THIS IXrORX THE BEABX170S ARE AXiX. IdAOWBTZC,
EXCEPT WHERE MARRED AS TRVE.

THE BXSTAHrCES ARE EXPRESSES ZIT SEA MZ&BS OF
«0 TO A BECREE OP XiATITVBB.

A CABXiE'S X.ENGTH XE ASSUMED TO BE EQVAl TO

100 FATHOMS.

.^°J3 C. Huvcouver Marui Pihtt Siij)pleuient-

En^rcvt'ed, by iayves 3c I'ompajj.*'

Iff

■i

"pspr^""^""

VANCOUVER ISLAND PILOT.

Supplement.

CHAPTER I.

INNER ClIANNELS.—QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO
SEAFORTH CHANNKL.

Variatiox in 1883.
Queen Charlotte sound, 24° 20' E. | Seaforth channel, 25° 20' E.

GENERAL REMARKS. — The inner channels, herein described,
of tlie seaboard of British Cohiinbia afford amooth water, together with
anchorages at suitable distances, for vessels of moderate length.

These channels, therefore, offer facilities to steam vessels for avoiding
the strong gales, and thick weather so frequently met with in Hecate
Htiait. They are also available for fore-and-aft schooners, when
navigating between Vancouver island and Alaska.

Unless directed to the contrary, the mid channel is recommended
to bo kept when navigating these inaer waters.

SHAD WELL PASSAGE.*— Suwanee rock, on which the

U.S. Steamship Sutvaneevfm wrcckcil in 1868, lies 95 fathoms W. by S. f S.
(S. 70° W.) from the high-water mark of Centre island. It dries 4 feet
at very low spring tides, and renders the passage west of Centre island,
unsuitable for any but small vessels locally acquainted.

* See Admiralty charts : — Vancouver island to Cordova bay, No. 2,430 j scale,
w = 0*13 of an inch. Vancouver island, and vkws, No. 1,917 j scale, m = 0*I5of ah
inch, (jolctas channel to Quatsino sound, No. .'k2 ; scale, m — O-H of an inch. Golctas
channel. No. 555 ; scale, m = 2*() inches; and cape Taution to port Simpson, southern
portion, No. 1,923 B; scale, »i°>U'25 of an inch.

Q9016. Wt. 14373. j^

1 — r

2 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEATORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i.

Directions. — Tho south peak of Mngin saddle (on the west end of
Galiano island) in line with the oast end of Centre island Ijcaring 8.S.E,,
leads through tho northern entrance of Shadwell i:)apsagc, passing half a
mile cast of cape James, (north-west point of entrance) and 1^ cables west
of Breaker reef, in 9 to 17 fathoms water.

Vessels that do not steer well are recommended to use Bate passage
instead of Shadwell passage. Cape James should at all times be given a
berth of at least half a mile.

Pine and Storm islands. — These islands with their surrounding
islets and reefs occujiy (he middle of the western approach to Queen
Charlotte sound, and form the eastern margin of dangers between Shadwell
passage and cape Caution.

Pine island, bold, rocky, and covered with trees, about 250 feet
high, is 4| miles N.E. by N. from cape .Tames.

Storm islands, nre a narrow chain of islands lying in an East and
West direction about 2 miles long, and form a most useful land-mark
when crossing Qneen Charlotte sound.

The western of these islands bears from Pino island N.W. by N. 3 miles ;
frrm cape James N. f E. 6| miles : ind from cape Caution S.E. by S.
distant 8 miles. There are no outlying dangers beyond 3 cables. Tho
tops of the trees are from 150 to 200 feet high, and on the western part is
a single tree which is conspicuous.

Sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, lies about
5 miles N.E. of ShadwoU passage ; from the centre of the rock, Bright
island bears S.E. ^ E., 1| miles, and Pine island, west 1^ miles.

Sealed passage, •'j miles to the northward of Shadwell passage,
between Pine island and Storm islands, is about 2^ miles wide, and has a
reef (Blind reef) on which tho sea breaks in heavy weather, extending'
nearly across ; close to the west edge of Blind reef there are 17 to 40
fathoms, rock. This passage should not be attempted.

Reid island, the easternmost of the Storm islands, on the north side
of Sealed passage, is about 300 /ards long E.N.E. and W.S.W,, and
150 yards broad, having a rock above water half a cable off its west end.

Water can be obtained at the Indian fishing station on Storm islands.

South rock, awash at low water, lies about ij miles north-
eastward of Blind reef; from tho centre of this rock, Pine island bears
S.W. by S. 3^ miles nearly, and Reid island W. ;^ N. I| miles.

Middle rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is covered at
three-quarters flood, and lies N. by W. one mile from South rock.

-i»

! I i«"w«i

CHAP. I.] <}HAJ)WELL PASSAGE. — SEA OTTER GUOXJP.

North rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is awash at
higli water, and lies N.E. three-quarters of a mile nearly from JMidrlle
rock. Harris islet a little open south of Janette island, bearing E. by S. J^ S.,
leads half a mile to the northward of North rock.

CAPE CAUTION (Ka-Klees-la), the north-west entrance point
of Queen Charlotte sound, is of moderate height and level, the tops of the
trees being about 200 feet above the sea ; the shore is white, and of granite
formation, with a few rocks off it ; the land north-east of the cape rises
gradually in a distance of 5 miles to Coast nipple, 1,350 feet high,
2 miles to the eastward of which lies mount Robinson, 2,100 feet high.

Soundings. — in a south-westerly direction, from cape Caution, at
a distance of 3 cables there is a depth of 9 fathoms, rocky bottonti ; at
one mile, 16 fathoms; at 1| miles, 43 fathoms, white sandy bottom ; thence
for 7 miles in the same direction the average depth is 70 fathoms, rocky
bottom. At 10 miles S.W. by W. from the cape and 2J miles S.E. ^ S.
from Danger shoal, the water shoals to 40 fathoms dark sand, and again
deepens to 80 and 90 fathoms a short distance to the southward.

SEA OTTER GROUP,* consisting of several dangerous rocks,
islets, and shoals which cover a space of about 12 miles in extent north and
south and 10 miles in an east and west direction, lies at a distance of 6 or
7 miles from the seaboard of British Columbia, fronting the coast between
capes Caution and Calvert.

Danger shoal, on which the sea is reported to break in heavy
weather, is the southernmost outlying danger of Sea Otter group, and lies
W. by S. ^ S. 10^ miles from cape Caution ; near the centre of this shoal
there is a depth of 9 fathoms, with 22 fathoms close aroimd. Shoaler
water probably exists.

Virgin rocks, near the western limit of the group, consist of three
white rocks, tl.ti largest of which (50 feet high), lies N.W. by W ^ W.
7^ miles from Danger shoal, and West 17 miles from cape Caution. South-
ward of these rocks the 30-fathom line is 4 miles, and in a westerly
direction it is 6 miles distant : rounding the rocks the soundings should not
be reduced to less than 30 fathoms.

Watch rock, 74 feet high and black, lies near the northern limit of
the group, N. | E. 7^ miles from Virgin rocks. The rock is steep-to.

Pearl rocks, the northernmost of Sea Otter group, are comprised of
several rocks above and below water, extending 1^ miles in a north-west

* Sec Admiralty chart : — Approaches to Fitz-IIugh and Smith sounds, No. 2,448 ;
scale, »i = 1 ■ inch.

▲ 2

4 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i.

and south-east direction; the largest rock (15 feet high), lies E. by N.
3 miles from Watch rock, and the south-east rock, on which tlie sea always
breaks, lies S.E. by E. one mile from the largest rock; there are 15 to 31
fatiioms water, close-to on the north side of Pearl rocks; and 70 to 80
fathoms just eastward of them.

Devil rock, the north-eastern outlying danger, lies N.E. A E. 1^ miles
from the largest Pearl rock ; and S.S.W. ^ W. nearly 3 miles from Sorrow
islands. The sea seldom breaks on Devil rock, and there is apparently
deep water close around. Ti»ere are from 80 to 40 fathoms between the
rock and capo Calvert.

NgW patcll, on which the sea generally breaks, is nearly 2 miles in
extent, and lies S. by E. 4^ miles from the hvrgost Pearl rock.

Ch.aiinel reef, the easternmost danger of Sea Otter gronp, has about
6 feet over it at low water ; from the centre of this reef, Table island, at
the entrance of Smith sound, bears E. by N. ^ N. 4| miles and Egg island
E. \ N. S'^^ miles. The sea seldom breaks on Channel reef, and there are
60 fathoms close eastward of it.

Hannah, rock, the south-easternmost outlying danger, on which the
sea is nearly always breaking, is situated about 2| miles soutli of Channel
reef; Hannah rock is awash at high water, and from its centre, cupe
Caution bears E. ^ S. 8 miles, Egg island N.E. by E. 5^ miles, and Danger
shoal S.S.W. i W. 4i7ff miles.

Clearing mark. — The south extremes of Egg and Table islands in
line, bearing N.E. ^ N. leads clear to the south-eastward of Danger shoal,
and all other dangers on the south-east side of Sea Otter group.

SOUTH PASSAGE, leading to Smith and Fitz-IIugh sounds
from the southward, lies between cape Caution and the south-east limit of
Sea Otter group where it is about 7 miles broad, with irregular soundings
varying from 34 to 74 fathoms. False Egg island, its own breadth open
west of Egg island, bearing N. A. W., leads through South [lassage, nearly
in mid-channel.

Blunden bay, a slight bend in the coast between cape Caution and
Neck point, at 1^ miles N.W. ^ N. from it, is about one mile wide at its
entrance, and nearly a mile deep ; Indian cove, which lies in the nortluM-n
part of this bay, affords good shelter for boats, it is the Indian rendezvous
on their canoe voyages, when passing between Queen Charlotte and Fitz-
Hugh sounds.

Hoop reef. — From Neck point the coast trends N. by W. 2 miles to
Good Shelter cove, midway between wnich lies Hoop reef, about one-thii-d
of a mile from the shore ; this reef is threo-riuartcrs of a mile north-west
and Hyuth-east, and one quarter of a mile broad.

CHAP. I.] SOUTH PASSAGE. — SMITH SOUND. 6

South Iron rock, on which the flea seldom breaks, lies three-
quarters ol:" a mile to the westward of Hoop reef, and nearly 1^ miles
N.W. \ W. from Neck point ; there are 35 fathoms close-to, on the nortl»
side of tho rock, and 25 fathoms in the channel between it and Hoop
reef.

North. Iron rock, whicli dries 7 feet, lies nearly in the fairway of
Alexandra passage, N.N.W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile from South
Iron rock ; there are 7 to 9 fathoms close to, and uo bottom at 40 fathoms
within a quarter of a mile of North Iron rock.

Clearing marks. — False Egg island in line with West rock off
Table island, bearing N. by W. ^ W., leads 4 cables west of South and
North Iron rocks. The west extreme of Surf islet, and the small islands
near the south point of Shower island in line N.E. by N., leads through
Alexandra passage, between North Iron, and Egg rocks.

SGG ISLAND, immediately fronting Smith sound, and standing
boldly out from the coast, is the prominent landmark between Goletas
channel and Fitz-IIugh sound. The island is 280 feet high, covered with
trees, and is remarkable for its egg-like shape ; it lies N.W. ^ N. 5 miles
from caps Caution. From the south-west side of the island rocks extend
about a cable and on the east side lies a small island, whicli is
< ► se[)arnt(Ml from F,gg island by a narrow gully, giving the appearance of a

split in the island itself, when seen from north or south.

Egg rocks, on the west side of Alexandra passage, are a cluster
of rock:* lying nearly three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from North Iron
rock, and S.S.E. about 2 cables from Egg island ; these rocks extend about
a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and S.S E., the northernmost being 30 feet
high.

Denny rock, a sunken danger on which tho sea seldom breaks, and
is a source of anxiety in thick weather, lies a quarter of a mile W.S.W.
from the southernmost Egg rock. The west extreme of Ann island open
west of Egg island bearing N. by E. leads about 3 cables west of Denny
rock.

SMITH SOUND lies 6 miles N.N.W. from cape Caution ; it is
about 8 miles long N.E. and S.W., with an average breadth of 3^ miles ;
the entrance, between Jones, and Long points being S^ miles across in a
N.N.W. direction. At G miles within the entrance, on either side of a
cluster of islands is a channel leading into Smith inlet. In almost every
part of the sound the depths are over 40 fathoms, and there k generally a
heavy swell.

The south-east shore of Smith sound, for a distance of 4 or 5 miles from
tho entrance, is fronted by several small islands and rocks having deep

6 QTJEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i.

water close-to ; good shelter for boats will be obtained in a small cove
about a quarter of a mile north of Jones point, the south entrance point
of the sound, also in a cove one mile south of Jones point, abreast Egg
rocks.

The entrance to the sound is protected by a plateau, on which stands
a collection of islands, islets, and rocks ; some above, and many under
water, prominent amongst them being Egg and Table islands. Access
to Smith sound may be had on either side of these islands.

Alexandra passage.— The south passage, is between Egg island
and the south-eastern point of entrance ; the narrowest part between Egg
rocks and North Iron rock being 6 cables : here as elsewhere, however, the
dangers are so steep-to that the (/uickest use of the lead is enjoined. A
general leading mark through Alexandra passage (making allowance for
heave of swell and tide), is, the west extreme of Surf island in line with
the islets near the south point of Shower island bearing N.E. by N.

Beaver passage. — The northern channel into Smith sound, is
between the islands fronting the north point of the sound, and Wood and
White rocks, th<^ northern and nortli-western extension of the above
mentioned plateau. In Beaver passage the bottom is irregular, 20 fathoms
being the least depth obtained. The course through the passage is E. ^ S.,
the east extreme of Search islands just open of the west end of Surf islet on
that bearing, leads in midway between John reef (on south side) and False
Egg island (on north side) where the width is 6 cables. This western
entrance to the passage being the narrowest part ; with the usual amount
of sea or swell, good steerage, and vigilant attention are required.

Table island, the largest of the group of islands occupying the
entrance to Smith sound, is about one mile long north and south, and half
a mile broad, with the tops of the trees 120 feet above the sea, nearly
fiat. Table island when seen from abreast cape Caution makes with two
summits.

A cluster of rocks, several of which are covered at low water, extend
half a mile from the west side (a Table island, having 24 fathoms water
close to the outer rock.

Ann island, about half a mile in extent, is separated from the north
end of Table island by a channel (a cable wide in some parts) in which
shelter will be found for boats.

CLUSTER REEFS, consisting of several rocky heads and shoal
patches, extend from Table island in a northerly and northwesterly

■IDI

*«i«i^^«MWaHi

CHAP. I.] ALEXANDllA PASSAGE. — LONG POINT. 7

direction into tlio entrance of Smith sound. George rock, on which the
seu breaks at low water, is the north-westernmost, and lies N. by W. J W.
one mile from Ann island ; Edward reef dries 7 feet, and lies E.N.E. three-
qnarters of a mile nearly from George rock. Wood rocks, which are awash
at low water, situated E. by N. a quarter of a mile nearly from Edward reef,
consist of three rocky heads, and are the north-easternmost of Cluster
reefs. Bertie rock, with 3^ fathoms water, lies near the eastern edge of
Cluster reefs ; from the centre of this rock the north-west extreme of Ann
island bears S.W. J S. distant nearly three-quarters of a mile.

The west extreme of False Egg island in line with Kelp head, bearing
N. I W., leads to the westward ; and Limit point, midway between Long
and Shower islands, E. by N. J N., leads to the northward of Cluster reefs.

White rocks, 35 feet high, and very conspicuous, lie in the west
entrance of Beaver passage, at 3^ miles N. by W. \ W. fi'om Egg island,
and nearly one mile north-west of Cluster reefs.

John reef. — At 3 cables N.N.W. J W. from White rocks and 6 cables
S. by W. J W. from False Egg island, lies John reef, which dries 3 feet at
low water, with 9 to 20 fathoms close around ; forming the north-western
danger, on the south side of Beaver passage.

Leading mark. — The east extreme of Search islands just open
south of the west end of Surf islet (east side of Smith sound) bearing
E. ^ S., will lead 3 cables to the northward of John reef, and into Smith
sound through Bejiver passage.

FALSE EGG ISLAND, resembling Egg island in shape, but
smaller, is 150 feet high, it lies on the north side of Beaver passage, and
is the outlying landmark for this northern entrance to Smith sound.

James rock. — At about 3 cables W. ^ N. from False Egg island lies
James rock, the exact position of which is somewhat doubtful ; the sea
breaks on this rock at low water, and between it and False Egg island the
bottom is foul.

Clearing mark. — The west part of the large Canoe rock bearing
North, or in line with Quoin hill (on Penrose island) passes three-quarters
of a mile westward of James and John rocks, and leads clear westward of
all dangers at the entrance of Smith sound.

LONG POINT, the north-west point of Smith sound, lies E. by N.
three-quarters of a mile from False Egg island ; Tie island, which is nearly
a quarter of a mile in extent, lies close westward of Long point, and is
separated from it by a boat passage, in which there is a depth of 4 fathoms;
Ada rock, which is awash at low water, lies S.S.E, ^ E. 2 cables from Tie
island.

SSS3S

8 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [ciur,

Browne island, on tho north-east side of Beaver passage, lies
S.E. i S. half a mile from Long point ; the island is 250 feet high, nearly
half a milo long N.N.W. and S.S.E., anil a quarter of a mile broad, with
17 to 23 fathoms clos(i to its soiitii point. Between the south part of
Browne island and Wood rockn, the eastern part of Beaver passage is
8 cables across with depths of 30 and 40 fathoms.

Surprise patch, on the north side of Smith sound, lies N.E. by E. ^ E.
1^ miles from luc south extreme of Browne island; there is a depth of
5 fathoms on this patcli, 7 to 17 fathoms close around, and no bottom at
40 fathoms 2 cables to the northward.

Judd rock, with less than 6 feet water, lies N.E. by E. J E. three-
quarters of a mile from Surprise p.T,tch, and W. by N. three-quart^irs of a
mile from Long island, the largest of the Barrier islands; there is no
bottom at 40 fathoms in the vicinity of this rock.

Barrier islands, '^^ the head of Smith sound, consist of two large
and several small islarils covering a space of about 5 miles in extent N.E.
and S.W. Blakeney passage on the north, and Browning passage on the
south side of these islands and leading to Smith inlet, are each about one
mile wide, witii no bottom at a depth of 41) fathoms.

TAKUSH HARBOUR, on the south shore of Smith sound,
•J miles within the entrance, and 1| miles east of Barrier islands, is 2 miles
long, north-east and south-west, and one mile broad. This is the only
anchorage Avhich a ship can resort to for shelter when crossing Queen
Charlotte sound. Vessels of large size can lie secure here.

The entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, with r.o bottom at
39 fathoms, decreasing to 22 fathoms, rock, in the centre of Ship passage,
which is 2^ cables wide, and is formed by Gnarled islands on the west, and
Fish rocks (dry 3 feet at low water) on the east side.'*

Petrel shoal, witli lo I'cet water, situated one cable S.S.E. | E. from
the easternmost Gnarled island, is the principal danger in rounding int'
Anchor bight.

Ply basin, at the head of Takush haibour, perfectly land-locked, is
about one mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and one to 2 cables broail, with
2^ to 3 fathoms in the western and 6 to 8 fathoms in the eastern part of the
basin. The entrance to Fly basin, which is about one cable wide, is con-
tracted to a quarter of a cable by a shoal extending from the east entrance
point, with a rock (dry 2 feet at low water), and a patch of 9 foet on its
western edge ; between this shoal and the west entrance point there is a
depth of 9 fathoms. If required a small vessel could be taken into Fly basin.

* See Admiralty plan : — Tiikush hurboar, on sheet Approaches to Fitz-Uugh and
Smith «ouud8, No. 2,448 ; scale m <= 1*0 inch.

CHAP, i] TAKUSH HARBOUR. — PITZ-HUGIl SOUND. 9

Anchorage in i'akush harbour will bo found in 10 or 11 fathomp,
mud, in Anchor bight, midway betwoon Ship rock and Steep point, with
the north extreme of Bull point bearing N.E. by E. ^ £•> o'»l *-'ti«t extreme
of Bloxham point N. by K. .^ E.

TidOS. — It is high water, full and change, in Taku.'»h harbour at
Ih. Oni. ; Hi)rings rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Directionc. — When bound to Takush harbour, it is recommended to
pass through IJrowniiig passage, and, after passing Xorth point keep the
north extreme of Bright island a little open north of that point bearing
W. by S. \ S., until Berry point (south side of Fly basin) appears mid-
way between the entrance points of Fly basin, S.E., which will lead
through Ship passage; and when Steep point is well open of the southern-
most Gnarled island bearing W.S.W. a course may be steered for the
anchorage in Anchor bight, taking care to avoii* the shoal ground south of
Gnarle<l island, passing midway between Anchor and Gnarled islands.
Good steerage is lequired here, speed should be proportionately slow, the
leads kept quickly going, and the water not shoaled tc less than 7 fathoms.

SMITH INLET (Quas-cillah), the continuation of Smith sound, is
about 3 miles wide at its entrance, between eastern part of Takush harbour
and Dsoolish bay ; it is said to extend nearly 25 miles in an E.N.E.
direction. 1'hc inlet lias not been surveyed.

PITZ-HUGH SOUND, the entrance to which lies 5 miles north-
ward of Smith sound, is 39 miles long in a general N.N.W. and S.S.E.
direction, having an average breadth of 3 miles, with no known hidden
dangers throughout. The southern entrance to Fitz-Hugh sound lies
between Cranstown point, the south entrance poi:. i' Fitz-Hugh sound
and of Rivera inlet, and cape Calvert the southern extremity of Calvert
island at 5 miles W. | N. from it.

The coast from Long point extends N.W. by N. 2^ miles to Kelp point,
from which Cranstown point bears N. by W. distant one mile.

The sound at 4 miles north of Safety cove is contracted to 1^ miles
by Addenbi'ooke and adjacent islands, which lie on the east side ; the
shores on both sides are, however, steep-to, and the depths in the channel
J from 80 to 140 fathoms.

Canoe, Sp ar, and Paddle rocks He about a mile off Kelp point,

I _ and occupy a space of I ^ miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction. The

f space thus enclosed being foul, and more or less covered with growing

* kelp. Canoe rock, the centre and mos. prominent of these rocks, is bare,

I. 25 feet high, and stands boldly out from the coast, making a good point for

! identification.

10 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTIl CHANNEL, [chap. i.

Open bay, on the north-east nido ot'Cmn.stown point, affords anchorage
in 7 fathoms, about 2 cables from the shore during summer or with ofl'-shoro
winds, but there is generally a swell in the buy, and it is only used by
local craft as a temporary anchorage.

Cape Calvert, the south extreme of Calvert island, is the southern
termination of Cape range (2,000 feet high). At 2 miles north of the cjip(!
lies Entry cone (1,200 feet high), which is conspicuous, and forms a good
mark for recognising Fitz-IIugh sound from the southward, and westward ;
cape Calvert is fronted by the Sorrow islands, which are steep-to, of granite
formation, and covered with gnarled and stunted trees ; between these
islands and the capo fair shelter may bo found for boats in Grief bay
(Telakwus), but during south-cast or south-west gales, u swell is more or
less experienced, rendering landing difficult and sometimes dangerous. An
Indian resort when travelling, or engaged in hunting the sea otter.

Directions. — To enter Fitz-Hugh sound from the southward, after
passing cape James (Shadwell passage) a N.N.W. ^ W. course should
be steered (or for Entry peak 1,200 foot high the south conical moun-
tain over cape Calvert) until past the Storm islands ; when, Adden-
brooke island open of, and the east shore of Fitz-Hugh sound (beyond)
shut in by, cape Calvert bearing N.N.W. -^ W., will lead midway between
Channel reef and Egg island, and up to the entrance of Fitz-IIugh sound.
Allowance should be made for tidal streams : the flood sets to the c?.:. -ard
into Queen Charlotte and Smith sounds with a velocity at springs of aearly
2 knots.

Prom the westward.— Vessels from the westward, bound for fitz-
Hugh sound, should use North passage, between Sea Otter group and
Calvert island ; this passage is about 3 miles wide, with depths oi".i9 to 71
fathoms ; Hedley patch with 9 fathoms water (probably less) lies in the
west entrance to North passage, at 3^ miles N. ^ W. from Watch rock.
{See description of Sea Otter group, p. 3.)

SCHOONER RETPEAT* (Ka-pi-lish), east side of Fitz-
Hugh sound, is the name given to the anchorages among a cluster of islands
at the south-west end of Penrose island, which here separates Fitz-Hugh
sound from Rivers inlet. The Retreat affords a secure stopping place, and
with care may be safely entered by steam vessels.

Joachim island, the south-easternmost and largest of this cluster
of islands is 400 feet high, 1^ miles long north and south, with an average

* See Admiralty plan :— Schooner retreat on sbeet of plans of anchorages between
cape Caution uud Ogden channel, No. 1,90J .

CHAP. I.]

CAPE CALVERT. — SCHOONER RETREAT.

brc'iultli of half n milo ; the north extreme of this island is separated from
Penrose island by a bout passage.

Ironside island, the eastern part of '.vhvjh is 200 feet high, is the
next in size, and is separated from Sea bluH", the north-west point of
Joachim island, by the channel into Schooner retreat.

SafO entrance, l>etween eJoachim and Ironside islands, three-quarters
of a mile wide, has in the middle from H to 17 fathoms water ; on tlie west
side of Sttfo entrance lies a rock awash, about 50 yards from Grey islands,
having a shoal extending l^ cables iu a northerly direction, with 2 to 3
fathoms on it, and 4 to 10 fathoms close-to.

Comber rock, on which the sea often breaks, ia an outlying danger
at the north side of the entrance of Schooner retreat ; the rock covers at
three-quarters flood, and lies S. by W. three-ciuarters of a cable from Surf
point, the south-west extreme of Ironside island.

Frigate bay, the southernmost anchorage in Schooner retreat, is a
space about half a mile long north-east and south-west, and a quarter of a
mile broad, with depths of 9 to 20 fathoms ; it is bounded on the south by
Joachim island, and on the west by Ironside and ^laze islands. The best
anchorage in this bay will be found just within Safe entrance, off a clean
sandy beach, iu 13 fathoms water, with the north-east extreme of Ironside
island bearing W. ^ S., and the north-west extreme of Sea bluff S. \ W.
It is necessary to moor in this bay.

Maze islands are a cluster of small islands on an extensive shoal
projecting in a northerly direction from the north-east end of Ironside
island ; the north-east prong of this shoal extends nearly across to Penrose
island, having a narrow channel with o\ to 9 fathoms water, which leads
from Frigate bay to Secure anchorage.

Secure anchorage, north-west of Frigate bay, is about a quarter
of a mile long north-east and south-west, and 1^ cables broad, with depths
of 9 to II fathoms ; it is protected from seaward by Ironside, Bird, and
Highway islands. Verney passage, leading to Secure anchorage from the
westward, between Ironside and Bird islands, is noarly half a cable wide
with 7 fathoms water iu mid-channel, but it is contracted to about 30 yards
by the shoals on either side, and having Chance rock at the entrance is
only suitable for small coasting vessels.

Gales. — During S.E. and S.W. gales the gusts are furious, but with
good ground tackle and care there need be no danger in Schooner retreat.

Tides. — It is high water, full and chp"'^p, in Schooner retreat at
Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 fe ..

Directions. — Vessels bound to Schooner retreat should at all times
vse Safe entrance ; from the southward. Quoin hill (880 feet high) at the

12 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap.

west part of Penrose island, should be.broiight in line with the hill 200 feet
high, on the east end of Ironside island bearing N.N.K., this will lead to
abreast Karslake point, the west extreme of Joachim island, when Safe
entrance will be open. After passing Karslake point steer very carefully
and proceed at a moderate speed towards IJluff ])oiut until Quoin hill is in
line with Centre island bearing N. | E., which will lead through Safe
entrance in mid-channel, and to the anchorage in Frigate bay.

The soundings between Karslake point and Safe entrance are irregular,
varying from 24 and 3^ fathoms abreast the point, to 40 fathoms no
bottom within 2 cables of the entrance, thence decreasing gradually to 15
and 20 fathoms midway between Sea bluff and the southern Grey island.

SAFETY COVE* (Oat-SO-alis), on the west shore of Fitz-
Ilugh sound and 7 miles to the northward of cape Calvert, is about one
mile long W.S.W. and E.N.E., and nearly half a mile wide at its entrance,
to the westward of which the shores of the cove extend parallel to each
other at a distance of 2 cables apart; there are depths of 9 to 17 fathoms
within half a cable of the shores, and 14 to 19 fathoms, soft mud, in the
middle of the cove, but the head is filled by a shoal extending out 3 cables,
with 7 fathoms close to its edge. The north entrance point of Safety cove
has two small islets lying off it, which are useful in identifying the
entrance, especially when coming from the northward.

Anchorage. — Good anchorage will be obtained in 13 fathoms, ^nud,
in the middle of Safety cove abreast a waterfall on the north shore.
Entering at night, a vessel should keep in the middle of the cove, obtaining
soundings, and anchor as soon as 17 fathoms are struck. During south-east
or south-Avest gales, strong gusts blow across the valley at the head of this
cove.

Fresh water. — The stre!>ra which runs into the head of Safety cove
affords excellent water, but is difficult to obtain by boats. The waterfall
on the north shore, unless in exceptionally dry weather (August and
September), will afford a good su|)ply.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Safety cove, ot Ih. Om. ;
springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Observation spot on the north shore, about 1^ cables westward of
the waterfall, is in hit. oT 31' 49" N., long. 127° 56' 23" W., depending
upon Shell island, Beaver harbour, being in 127° 25' 7" W.

* See Admirnlty plan :— Safety cove, on sheet of pluus of anchorages between cape
Caution audOgden channel, No. I.UOI ; scale, m = 6 • inches.

m^f^

CHAiM.] SAFETY COVE. — NAMU HARBOUR. 13

Kwakshua passage, 7^ miles nortli of Safety cove, leads to the
sea, and lies between Calvert and Hecate islands; this passage is only
partially examined ; it has, however, been used by coasting vessels. (See
page 95.)

Hakai channel, 5.^ miles north of Kwakslma, is an inexplored
channel leading to sea. {See page 95.)

Goldstream harbour,* at the south-east entrance point of Hakai
channel, affords good accommodation for small vessels ; it is about 2 cables
long north and south, r.nd 2 cables broad, with depths of 7 to 15 fathoms,
sand and mud. The entrance to this harbour from Fitz-Hugh sound is
through an intricate passage little over half a cable wide, between the
north extreme of Hecate island which forms the south shore, and an
island about one mile in extent which forms the north side of Goldstream
harbour. Evening rock, which dries 3 feet at iow water springs, lies near
the middle of the passage about 2 cables within the entrance ; it Avould,
therefore, be advisarde in the absence of good local knowledge, to place a
boat near this rock (when covered) before entering or leaving the harbour,
and proce'^ding at slow speed, keep in mid-channel, where there is a
general depth of 6 fntlioms.

Tides. — It is high water, full r.nd change, in Goldstream harbour at
Ih. Om. ; sjirings rise 15 feet, neaps 12 feet.

NalaU passage, 4 miles north-westwai-d of Hakai, is an unexplored
channel leading to sea. {Sec page 97).

NamU harbour,! at the south entrance of Burke channel, and one
mile south of Edmund iioint, east side of Fitz-Hugh sound, lies N.E. by N.
6 miles from Nalau passage. It is three-quarters of a mile long, E.N.E. and
W.S.W., and three-<iuarters of a mile broad, with depths of 20 to 28 fathoms ;
in tiie entrance of tho harbour lies Kiwash, a round island, 200 feet high,
a quarter of a mile ^n diameter, anil covered with trees. South passage,
between Kiwash and Plover island (150 feet high), which forms the south
ciUranee jroint of Namu harbour, is nearly half a mile wide, with 23 to
28 fathoms water; North passage, between Kiwash and Cliti" island, on the
northern side of the harbour, is 3 cables wide with 35 to 18 fathoms water.
Namu harbour may be entered either by North or South passage.

* Slc Ailniiralty plau : — Goldstream harbour, on sheet of phms of uiichorages
between citpe Caution and Offden ehiinnel, No. 1,901 ; scale, m = 'J-0 inc]ies.

f See Adminilty plan :— Namu harbour on sheet of pliins of anchorages between capo
Caution ud Ogden channel, No. 1,901 ; seal*, m - 4'0 iaclufs.

14 QTTEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAEOUTH CHANNEL. [ciiAr. i.

Anchorage. — Large vessesls should anchor in 20 fathoms, in the
centre of Namu harbour, with the north extreme of Kiwnsh island bearing
West, and the west extreme of Plover island S. by E. Small vessels may
anchor in Whirlwind hay on the east side of Namu harbour in 12 fathoms,
clay, with the north extreme of Kiwash island bearing W, by S., and the
centre of Clam island (a small island south of the bay) South. During
the autumn and winter months the anchorage in Whirlwind bay is not
recom.mended, as the williwaws blow with furious strength over the
mountains (3,000 feet high) in its vicinity. This anchorage is moreover
confined by Loo rock with 3 feet water, lying nearly in the middle of the
bay, and E. by N. | N. 2 cables from the south extreme of Sunday island.

There is a large stream and an old Indian camp in Wliirhv ind bay.

Burke channel, on the east side of Fitz-Hugh sound, 3 miles
northward of Nanux barb ur, leads to Bela-Kula anchorage at the head of
North Bentinck arm, a distance of 55 miles in a general north -easterly
direction, from its junction with Fitz-Hugh sound.

Bentinck arm..— See page 19.

Edmund point, the south entrance point of Burke channel, has
several small islands near it ; and Walker point, the north entrance point
to the channel, is fonned by an island situated 2 miles north-west from
Edmund poi.'t ; this island is steep-to, but at a distance of 2 cables the
water is not deeper than 96 fathoms, mtid bottom, dee, cnmg quickly a
short distance further, a position which might be used in a fog for
anchoring.

Temporary anchorage, north of Walker point, might on emergency with
care, and sending a boat ahead, be taken up, but there are many covering
reefs.

Kiltik, on the west side of Fitz-Hugh sound, opposite Edmund point,
is a narrow creek (less than 2 cables), extending nearly a mile in a
westerly direction, with an average depth of 20 fathoms in the centre,
but shoal for one third of a mile from its head. This creek it is supposed
might be used by moderate sized vessels ; but was not examined in detail.

Fog rocks, situated rather on the east side of Fitz-Hugh sound and
3 miles north ot Walker point, consist of six rocks above water, the
highest of winch is 25 feet high, with a few shrubs on it. These rocks
(which appear nearly in mid-channel from the southward) may be passed
on either side at a distance of 9 cables, but the main route lies lo the west-
ward of them ; there is a depth of 103 fathoms, mud, between Fog rocks
and the eastern shore of P'itz-Hugh sound.

Port John.— At 4 miles north of Lama passage, on the eastern shore
of Fisher channel, and 8 miles northward of Fog rocks, is an indentation

CHAP. I.] BUUKE CHANNEL. — LAMA PASSAGE. 15

with port John in its northern part, immediately under Rema.kablo cone
mountain and terminating in Evans arm to the southward.

Port John (of Vancouver) afEords anchorage in 20 fathoms, but is much
confined by Mark rock nearly in the middle of the place, and by the flat
extending off the stream at the head. There is also anchorage at tho head
of Evans arm in 20 fathoms, which may be reached through South passage,
but the immediate approacji to it north of Boot island is foul, and a vessel
of size should be preceded by a boat. North passage should only be used
after temporarily buoying Peril rock.

LAMA PASSAGE * i» tlie main passage ocnr.ecting Fisher
channel (which is the northern contiiuiation of Fitz-Hugh sound) with
Seaforth channel and Milbank sound; its eastern entrance on the west s' !e
of Fisher channel and 6 miles north of Fog rocks may be recognised by a
conical mountain 1,000 feet high, on the north-east point of Hunter island,
and by Pointer island, on the south side of this entrance where it ia nearly
a mile wide. Thence the passage trends west 2 miles to abreast Serpent
point on the south shore, the breadth being about half a mile, and the
soundings 130 fathoms in the middle, 25 and 26 fathoms near the shores,
it then widens and trends W.8.W. 4 miles to abreast Twilight point (the
south-west point of Denny island) with no l)ottom at 38 fathoms near the
north shore, and 23, 12, and 20 fathoms close to the points extending from
the south shore.

The entrance to Plumper channel (see page 98), which is a mile wide,
lies opposite Twilight point, from which Lama passage turns to the north-
west for 4 miles to Grave point, which has several Indian graves on it;
from 2^ miles north of Twilight point to Grave point the passage is con-
tracted to 2 cables, with uniform depths of 25 to 30 fathoms.

Cooper inlet, situated on the southern shore of Lama passage,
5 miles from the eastern entrance, is deep and contains several small creeks
and rocks ; but in fine weather anchorage may be obtained in 14 fathoms
water under Westminster point, its north-west point, by l)ringing it to bear
W.N.W., and Harbourmaster point its north-east point, just open of the
reefs off Charles point N.E. by E. f E.

Jane ci«ek, in the south-east corner of Cooper inlet, may be used by
small vessels. Charles point, its north point, has two reefs extending one
cable from it in a north-westerly direction, the out"r of which dries 9 feet.
Good anchorage may be had in this creek in 9 fathoms water, with Charles
point in lino with the east point of Canoe bight (on the opposite shore of

♦ Ste Admiralty chart : — Lama passage and Seaforth channel, No. i,449 j scale
w = 1 • 55 inches.

16 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i.

the passage) bearing N.W. ^ W., and George point, the south entrance
point of Jane creek, S.W. by W, Large vessels may anchor in about
18 fathoms midway between Charles and George points ; the bottom in
this creek is generally rocky.

Cf mp point, at the south-west extremity of Denny island, and
the turning point into Lama passage, should not be rounded nearer than
half a mile, as the bottom is foul for a distance of 3 cables, with patches
that uncover 2 feet at low water springs.

McLaughlin bay,* on the west shore of I^ama passage, half a mile
south of Grave point, is a good stopping place; it is about 4 cables wide
and 1^ cables deep, with 8 to 14 fathoms water. The south point of the
bay has a bare summit 150 foet high, which in thick weather is an useful
guide to a stranger. The anchorage is in 11 fathoms off the centre of the
beach about a cable from the shore, with Grave point open east of south-
west point of Narrow island bearing N. \ W., and Archibald point open
east of Napier point S.E. by E.

In this bayf is the site of an old Hudson bay trading post, which in 1868
was again used as such, the Bella Bella natives simultaneousl;, migrating
here from Bella Bella islands ; there is a small quantity of cleared
ground at the foot of a rocky hill 200 feet high, a quarter of a mile from
the beach, on the west side of which there is a lake.f

BELLA BELLA ISLANDS He three-quarters of a mile north
of Grave point, bare and about 15 feet high ; these islands were until
recently, inhabited during the summer months by the Indians of the
formerly powerful Bella Bella tribe, numbering now however only (1867)
about 45. Temporary anchorage may be had to the eastward of Bella Bella
islands, oft' a green bushy flat, the old winter residence of these natives.

KLICK-TSO-ATLI HARBOUR, on the north si<le of Denny
island, and 1^ miles east of Bella Bella islands, is about a mile in extent,
with depths of 2 to 13 fathoms, and affords excellent shelter for vessels of any
size, llaibour island, off the north-west point of Klick-tso-atli, has a reef
extending one cable from its east end.

* Sec Admiralty plan : — McLaughlin bay, on sheet of plans of anchorages between
cape Caution andOgden channel, No. 1,901 ; scale, »i = 5';j inches.

t. This is the only Indian winter residence between Queen Charlotte sound and
Seaforth channel.

X A rock is said, from Indian report, to exist in Laiua passage abreast McLaughlin
bay, and to lie half a cable from the eastern shoro, witl> Napier jroint bearing S.S.E.
distant nearly 6 cables ; this reported danger may be avoided by keeping in nnd-channel.
— H.M.S. Amethyst, IP 76.

CHAr. I.] MCLAUGHLIN BAT. — KLICK-TSO-ATLI HARBOUR. 17

Steamer passage. — The channel south of Harbour island is one
cable wide, with a depth of 7 fathoms, and is suitable for small vessels ;*
large vessels are recommended to pass north of Harbour island and through
Wheelock pass, which lies between a 3-fathom patch near the centre of
the channel and Noble point, the north-east entrance point of the harbour,
off which a 3-fathom shoal extends three-quarters of a cable in a south-
westerly direction.

The west extreme of Cypress island in line with the east extreme of
Meadow island bearing N.N.VV. J VV. leads through Wheelock pass in 11
to 19 fathoms water, and when Harbour island bears West a vessel may
anchor in 12 fathoms.

If in a large vessel and not wishing to enter Klick-tso-atli harbour,
secure anchorage may be obtained in 15 fathoms, with Harbour island
bearing S.S.E. ^ E. distant 3 cables.

Ka-KoOSh-dish creek, just north of Noble point, is suitable for
small craft, but is barred across by kelp, having 3^ fathoms.

Main passage, leading from Lama passage to Seaforth channel,
between the north-east extreme of Campbell, and Narrow islands, is three-
quarters of a mile long N.N.E. a&d S.S.W., and from 2 to 2| cables wide,
with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms in it. Care should be taken to maintain
a raid channel course.

Narrow island, situated about three-quarters of a mile north of
Bella Bella islands, is three-quarters of a mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
and nearly half a mile broad ; there is a ledge of rocks awash at high
water, with 5 fathoms close to, at one cable from the south side of Narrow
island.

Pole, and Tree islets, situated about a quarter of a mile from the
west extreme of Narrow island, are two small islets 2 cables apart in a
north and south direction from each other ; Tree islet the northernmost is
120 feet high, with a detached rock close to its north-east side. There are
two rocky lettges between these islets and Narrow island.

Hodges reef, which dries 2 feet at low-water springs, with 6 and
7 fathoms close-to, lies nearly in mid-channel between Tree islet, and Deer
island at 4 cables east of it. From this reef the centre of Tree islet bears
East 2 cables, and the east extreme of Pole islet S.W. | S. 3 cables.

Gunboat passage between Denny and Cunningham islands, is
narrow ajid intricate, containing many rocks and kelp patches. From it^
western entrance it trends about E. by N. 6 miles, thence North 2 miles

* This passage was frequently used by the Beaver daring the suryey.
Q 9016. 3

18 QTJEEN CHAKLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap.

to its eastern entrance, which is at the junction of Fisher and Deane
channels.

Gunboat passage should not be attempted unless in small handy steam
coasting vessels with good local knowledge.

SEAFORTH CHANNEL, the main channel connocfng Lama
passage with Milbank sound : is 14 miles long E. by N. and W. by S. with an
average breadth of one mile ; the land on both sides is much broken by
islands with channels between leading north and south ; the water is
generally deep, and with the Admiralty charts there should be no difficulty
in navigating, in ordinary weather.

Kyntinipt harbour,* on the south shore of Seaforth channel, and
about 2 miles westward from its junction with Lama passage, may be
recognised by Grassy islet 20 feet high, and Regatta reefs, both of which
are conspicuous, lying in the middle o/* the channel IJ miles eastward of
the harbour, also by White stone a conspicuous bare rock 12 feet high lying
2 cables west of Kynumpt. This harbour is 4 cables long N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
and averaging 2 cables in breadth with 6 to 16 fathoms, mud ; the best
anchorage is in 7 to 9 fathoms with the north extreme of BeiTy point
bearing E.N.E., and the west extreme of Low^ island N.N.E.f

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Kynumpt at h. 30 m. ;
springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet.

Observation spot on Berry point, is in lat. 52° 12' 20" N.,
long. 128° 11' 37" W., considering Shell island, Beaver harbour, to be in
127° 25' 7" W.

Dall patch with less than 6 feet water lies half a mile N.N.E. from
the entrance to Kynumpt harbour ; from the centre of the patch Defeat
point bears S. ^ W., distant 3^ cables, White stone S.W. by W. ; and west
extreme of Low island S. by W. ; a shoai of 3 fathoms extends 1^ cables to
the westward of Dall patch.

To avoid Dall patch, it is recommmended to keep the southern sliore en
board, which in this vicinity may be approached to within I^ cables. Or,
if wishing to go northward of the patch : — Grassy islet, in line with the
south extreme of Handyside island bearing E. | N. leads nearly midway
between Dall patch and Regatta reef.

Cod bank with 27 fathoms, sand, lies in the middle of the western
entrance to Seaforth channel, N. by W. \\ miles from Sound point

♦ See Admiralty plan :— Kynumpt harbour, on sheet No. 1,901; scale, m = 5-5
inches.

t A rock with 10 feet water is reponed to lie S.>\ . distant 2 cables from Low island.

<:f

OHAr. I.]

KYNUMPT HARBOrR. — ANCHORA.GE.

|»

the south-west entrance point to Seaforth channel ; there are 58 fathoms
on the south side and 1G3 fathoms, rock, close-to on the north side of Cod
bank.

Alicll0ra>g6. — Between Sound point, and Gale creek at 2^ miles to
the eastward of it, a bank extends about three-quarters of a cable from the
south shore of Seaforth channel ; on its outer edge — which is steep-to —
there are depths of 28 and 30 fathoms, decreasing to 18 and 10 fathoms
close to the shore for a distance of one mile east of Sound point. Thence
to Gale creek, reefs with 9 fathoms close-to extend about 3 cables from
the shore. During foggy weather, temporary anchorage may, with careful
use of the lead, be obtained on this bank.

BENTINCK ARM.
BDRKE CHANNEL and BENTINCK ARM, though

not surveyed in detail, have been frequently traversed (both by day and
night), and may be safely navigated by the Admiralty chart, there being no
known detached dangers.

Anchorages. — In Restoration cove, distant 12 miles from Fitzhugh
sound on the east shore, a vessel may anchor in 20 fathoms, 2 cables off the
beach, but the shore should be approached very slowly, as it is steep-to.

At Belakula* (head of North Bentinck arm), vessels anchor close to
the mud flat at the mouth of the river on the south side. In taking up a
berth, great care is required ; the deep sea lead should be used, and a leads-
man on the dolphin striker will guard against getting too near the edge of
the flat, which is quite eteep-to. A large vessel should moor in 45 to 50
fathoms ; a stern anchor may also be required, or a hawser laid out to the
shore will be useful for keeping the hawse clear. Small vessels may find
shelter during summer, on the north shore under Custom house point.

* See Admiralty chart, cape Caution to port Simpson, No. 1,923b ; and plan of
Belakula anchorage on sheet of plans No. 1 ,462.

■?;»

B 2

CHAPTER IT.
MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

*!%

Variation in 1883.
Milbank sound, 25° 30' F. | Chatham souiul, 26° 10' E.

MILBANK SOUND, lias its entrance between the parallels of
52° 9' and 52° 16' N., and the meridians of 128° 33' and 128° 42' W.
This spacious sheet of water connects Hecate strait with Seaforth,
Fiuhiyson, ai^d Mathieson channels.*

At its western entrance between cape Swain and Day point, the
sound is nearly 9 miles wide, which breadth it uiaintains in a N.N.E.
direction for 5 miles, thence it trends more northerly, and takes a N.N.W.
direction for 10 miles, until meeting Finlayson channel.

LandniarkS. — Approaching Milbank sound from the south-west-
ward, Helmet peak on Lake island, at the eastern shore of the sound,
is conspicuous. This remarkable peak is 1,032 feet high, and bears a
striking resemblance to a helmet, with the sloping side towards the west.

Stripe mountain, on the north side of Dowager island, at the entrance
of Finlayson channel, is 2,020 feet high, with a remarkable landslip down
its south-west side.

Nearing the sound the low wooded shores of cape Swain should be
recognised. This cape forms the south-west entrance point of the sound.
The shore northward of it is much broken, and the tops of the trees are
about 1 20 feet high.

Day point, the north-west entrance point of Milbank sound, has a group
of wooded islets, rocks awash at high water, and sunken rocks extending
S.S.W. 2 miles from it ; the western island of the group (Outer islanxl)
being round, wooded, and conspicuous. The outer edge of these dangers,

* See Admiralty charts: — Cape Caution to port Simpson, northern and southern
portions, No. 1923 A and B ; scale, »t=:0'25 of an inch.

CHAP. II.] LANDMARKS.— VANCOUVER ROCK. 21

lies S.S.W., distant 2fV milos fiom Day point, and S.E. ^ S. disluiit
8 cables from Outer island.*

WhitO rooks. — About 5 miles within the sound lie the White
rocks (Kft-roas-ik). The southern oftliese two bare rocks is 50 feet liigh ;
and N. by E., distant half a mile from it lies a smaller rock feet above
high water. Both rocks are conspicuous, and lying well out in the sound,
^g^ show out against the dark background of pine and cedar, which line the

shores of Milbank sound. • .

Discovery rocks, situated off cape Swain, are two dangerons rocks
lying N. by E. and S. by W. from each other, distant 8 cables. The
southern danger, over which the sea seldom breaks, lies W. ^ S., distant
one mile from cape Swain. The northern rock, which usually indicates
itself by breakers, lies N.W. ^ W. distant one mile from cape Swaiu.

W^est rock, situated on the eastern shore of the sound, is of small
extent, 8 feet above high water, and lies S.W. ^ S., distant 5 cables from
Sound point.

Several patches which uncover at low water lie between Sound point
and West rock.

Mouse rock is a dangerous sunken rock over which the sea
generally breaks, it lies at the north-west entrance of Seaforth channel,
W, ^ N. distant 6 cables from Surf point.

Bush point (north side of Seaforth channel) seen just open south of
Surf point, bearing E. by N. | N. leads southward, and Helmet peak seen
just open of the west extreme of Alary island, bearing N. | E. leads
westward of Mouse rock.

Sound rock, over which the sea only breaks in bad weather, has
12 feet water on it, and lies S. by E. ^ E. distant 5 cables from the north-
ern White rock (Bare rock), and E. h N., distant 2^ cables from the
southern and highest White rock.

There are depths of 50 fulhoms, rock, at one mile eastward, and 34
fathoms close-to, westward of Sound rock.

The south extreme of ClilV island, seen just open of Boulder heal,
bearing N.N.W. ^ W., leads 8 cables eastward of Sound rock.

Vancouver rock, a dangerous rock which uncovers V2 feet at
Y low water, is steep-to on all sitles ; there being depths of 1.3 and 14 fathoms

within a cable of the rock. AVhcn visible this rock presents the appearance
of a large whale, and is conspicuous.

* Kelp will be seen on the surface of the water growuig ou nearly every daii;:er
with a bottom of rock or stones during the suiuinar and uutumu mouths ; but during
the winter and spring this useful marine plaut is absent.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATU/ \I SOUND. [chap, ir

It lies N.N.W. ^ W., distant 4 niilcs from Wlilte rock, and N.W. Vjy
W. i W. distant 1^ miles from Bould t head, and S.S.W. \ W. distant
one mile from ClifF island.

Cross point (south-east extreme of Lady island), in line with Boulder
head, hearing E. ^ S., leads 6 cahlos southward ; and Low point seen
just open westward of the North island group, hearing Nortli, leads west-
ward of Vancouver rock.

Cross ledge extends 8 cahles to the southward of Cross point,
and jmrtially uncovers. There is a depth of 20 fathoms close southward
of Cross ledge.

Surf point hearing E. hy S. leads southward of Cross ledge, in mid-
channel between Cross point and White rock.

Boulder ledge, of sunken rocks, with depths of 1 j rnd o fathoms,
extends 9 cables in a south-easterly direction from Boulder point.

Boulder bank, with 18 fathoms, rock, lies S.S.W., distant 7 cables
from Boulder point.

Surf point, bearing E. by S., leads southward of the dangers off Boulder
point.

North ledges, which uncover at low water, lie northward
of the North island group. The north extreme of these ledges lies N.
by W. ^ W., distant 6 cables from North island ; and the south extreme
2 cables N.E. of that island.

Beaver bank, has 27 fathoms water (least depth found) on
it, over a bottom of sand and shells. The centre of this bunk lies W. by
N., distant 2^^ miles from Low point.

The bank is about one mile long in a North and South direction, with
depths of 45 fathoms, gravel, at 2 cables westward, and 114 fathoms,
rock, at one mile eastward of the bank in mid-channel between Low and
Jorkins points. •

Fogs. — ^ vessel meeting with a fog in this portion of Milbank
sound would find Beaver bank of service not only as indicating her
position, but as afiording temporary anchorage.

Sandstone reef situated close to the shore in the north-western
portion of Milbank sound, is a conspicuous narrow ridge, of sandstone
formation, about one mile long in an E. by N. and W. by S. direction.
The highest portion of this ridge is 4 feet above high water.

The western extreme of Sandstone reef lies 5 cables from the shore of
Swindle island, and 1^ miles from the eastern side of Price island.

Soundings* — A channel 8 miles broad, with depths of over 100
fathoms, mud, extends south-westward of Milbank sound. North-westward

CHAP, n.]

CROSS LEDGE. — PRICE ISLAND.

of tliis channel the depths decrease to 50 fathoms, and less, at the mouth
of Laredo sound, with a bottom of fine sand. South-eastward the depths
are 76 and 80 fathoms, with a bottom consisting of sand, mud, and rock
at intervals.

In thick weather, therefore, or if overtaken by fog, when approaching
Milbank sound from the soutli-westward, with average precautions, a
vessel's position should be indicated by the deep sea lead.

Within Milbank sound the water is deep, there being depths of 109
and 116 fathoms within its entrance points, the deeper water being
on the south-east shores of the sound. In mid-channel there is no
bottom at 130 fathoms, and at one mile from the south-east shores
of the sound there are depths of 110 and 120 fathoms, rock ; those shores,
therefore, should be approached with caution.

In the northern and north-western portions of Milbank sound the
soundings are irregular, with depths of 21 fathoms rock and 114 fathoms,
mud.

Coast. — Between capo Swain and Sound point the land is low,
wooded, and broken into creeks and bays.

PRICE ISLAND, forming the western shore of Milbank sound,
has a conspicuous ridge of hills along its eastern shore, from 300 to 600 feet
in height. The cluster of islets off Day point are wooded and conspicuous ;
and from Day point the eastern shore of Price island trends in a N. by E.
direction for 4 miles to Aldrich point, and i much broken into small
exposed bays.

Boat COVO, which affords shelter to boats, is situated half-a-milc
northward of Aldrich point. With this exception the coast of Price
island, north of Aldrich point, is almost straight and unbroken for 8 rtiles,
in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction to the entrance of Schooner passage.

The eastern shores of Milbank sound are comparatively low and
wooded, with pine and cedar trees predominating. In that portion of the
sound lie two extensive channels (Matbieson channel and Moss passage),
which enter Milbank sound eastward and northward of Lady island,
respectively. Lady island is low and wooded throughout. The western
shores of Dowager island arc also low and wooded, but are flanked by high
mountains.

The south-east extreme of an island contiguous to Lady island, termi-
nates in a high bold cliflf (Boulder point). Cliff island which lies off the
south-west side of Dowager island at the entrance of Moss passage is
small, 225 feet high, and its south-east extreme terminates in high, con-
spicuous white cliffs.

MILBxiNK SOUND TO CUATILVSI SOUND. ['"vi" "•

Nortli ishuul is rocky, about 150 feet high, with some stunt. d trees

growing on its .summit.

Low point, the western oxlrenie of Dowager island, and the south-
east entrance point of Finhij-son cliannel, is low and wooded.

The north-western shore of :Milbank sound li high and bold
with inountiiins 1,')00 to 2,00() feet high rising iniuiediutely over it.

Directions.— Approaelung Milbank so\ind from thi south-westward
in clear weather, Helmet peak should be kept in line with White rock,
bearing N.N.E. ^ E., which nuxrk will lead nearly in mid-channel up the
sound. When within 2^ miles of White rock, on that line, a vessel
bound eastward may steer E. by N. | N. towards Seaforth channel, with
Day point astern bearing W. by S. | S., or if bound to the northward
a N. by W. course may be steered towards Finlayson channel.

In thick weather, as before mentioned, with avciage precautions and
attention to the deep sea lead, the soundings will indicate the ves-sel's
position. '

Approaching from Seaforth channel, and bound into Finlayson channel,
Surf point should be kept astern bearing E. by S. for 3 miles, which
will lead in mid-channel, J^ miles northward oi' White rock. In this
position Cliff island should been seen open westward of Boulder point,
bearing N.N.W. ^ W., and a vessel may steer N.W. by W. ^ W. for 3 miles,
or until Low point is seen open westAvard of the North island group
bearing North, thence N.N.W. for 3 miles, or imtil Stripe mountain
bears N.E. by N., when it may be steered for on that bearing, and the
course gradually altered northward into Finlayson channel.

MATHIESON CHANNEL is an extensive arm of the sea
leading northward from Jlilbank sound, eastward of Lady and Dowager
islands, with depths of 103 and lOo fathon)s in mid-channel. At the dis-
tance of 2^ miles within its south entrance this channel is obstructed by
islands, islets, and rocks. A stranger rhoislj therefore not attempt to
proceed further.

Moss passage ^Too-avIiI), leuds northward of Lady island into
Mathieson channel. At its western entrance this passage is over a mile wide ;
but at 3 miles within this entrance, and one mile from its junction
with Mathieson channel, it is barely a cable wide. Beyond that position,
therefore, it should not be attempted by a stranger.

Tides. — The flood stream approaches from the southward, and
divides near the middle of the sound ; one portion running towards
Finlayson channel, anothei' towards Mathieson channel, and another
towards Seaforth channel. The reverse takes place on the ebb.

ciur. 11.] MATIIIISSON CHANNEL. — ST. JOHN IIARBOUU.

Tlje rutc of tide U variable, but it seldom exceeds one knot an hour in
Milbank Bound ; that rate however ia increased within the channels to
2 and 3 knots an hour.

ST. JOHN HARBOUR (Cheek-Squintz) is the first

anchorage met when approaching from the south-westward, and lies on
the south-east shore of Milbank sound, nearly midway between cape
Swain and Sound point.

This harbour, though confined, with a narrow entrance, affords good
anchorage for small vessels. It is protected at its entrance by u reef of
rocks awash, and sunken rocks, which form a natural breakwater, and
breaks the ocean swell.

Eastward of this, reef, at the entrance of the harbour, there is a clear
channel, 2 cabhis wide, with depths of 10 to 30 fathoms.

At 5 cables within the entrance lie two small islands, the eastern
and smaller one being round, wooded, and conspicuous (Wood island).
The channel eastward of these islands is barely a aible wide abreast
Wood island, and leads into Anchor bay, which is the usual anchorage foi
small vessels. Westward of these islands the channel is wider and leads
into Deep bay, which forms the south-west arm of St. John harbour.

The depths in Deep bay are 9 to 20 fathoms ; the depths in Anchor
bay arc 11 to 14 fathoms.

REge reef extends 7 cables northward from the west point of St.
John harbour, and is about 2 cables wide. This dangerous reef consists of
ledges which uncover, and rocks awash at high water, the northern
extreme uncovers 4 feet at low water.

Mark islet is 6 feet above high water, and lies about midway on the
eastern side of Kage reef. .

Ledges, which uncover, extend a cable from the eastern shore ol' the
channel leading into St. John harbour.

Directions. — Approaching St. John harbour, cape Swain (-houUl
be kept well open of the conspicuous quoin-shaped point which lies 2 miles
northward of the cape, bearing S. ^ W. On no account should Rage ; ei f be
approached inside that line, until Wood island, within the harbour, is
distinctly seen, and North point bears East. When W^ood island is recog-
nised it should be brought to bear S.S.E. \ E., and steered for. A\ood
island on that bearing should be seen in line with a black high-water rock
on the south shore of Anchor Vmy, with a sandy bay immediately r:i«f oi
the rock.

Ancliorage. — Pass half a cable eastward of Wood i^huKl, and
anchor in 10 to 11 fathoms, sand bottom, in Anchor bay, Mitb the

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [cuap. ii.

eastern side of Wood island seen in line with the north extreme of Rage
reef, bearing N.W. ^ W., distant 3 cables. '

CEUtion. — At high water, when Rage reef is covered nearly through-
out, it is difficult to distinguish the entrance into St. John harbour. At
half-tide and at low water the northern end of that reef and also the
dangers on the eastern side of the channel are visible, and a vessel can
be guided clear of them by the eye. That period of the tide is therefore
the best time for entering St. John harbour.

PORT BLAKENEY*on the south side of Mathieson channel,
about 3 miles within the entrance, is easy of access, and lying immediately
at the head of Milbauk sound may be appror)ched from the sonih-west-
ward with the swell astern.

At its entrance, between Promise, and Rain points, the port is 2^ cables
wide, th jnce it takes a southerly direction for about a mile, terminating in
the mouth of a small crer k leading into Seaforth channel.

Cod. reefs are a ciMster of rocks awash, and sunken rocks, about 2^
cables in extent in a north and south direction at the mouth of port
Blackeney. The southern rock of this cluster is 4 feet above high v.aicr,
and the northern rock with 24 feet water over it lies N.N.E. 3 cables from
Promise point, with a clear channel northv/ard of it I ^ cables wide.

Oke reefs, situated about 2 cables northward of Cod reefs, extend
2 cables from the south side of Oke island. The outer detached rock
is 3 feet above high water, and between it and Oke island several patches
of rock uncover at low water.

Clearing marks. — White rocks off the south end of Lake island,
seen in line astern, with the north end of Passage island (between Lake
and Lady islands) bearing W. ^ N. will leau between Oke and Cod
reefs. Mark islet, seen in line with Oke island, bearing N.W. by N. will
lead eastward of those dangers.

Sand patch with 24 feet water upon it is of small extent, and lies
nearly in mid-channel about o cables within port Blakeney. Helmet
peak, seen in line with Promise point, bearing N. by W. ^ W., will lend
westward of Sand patch.

Anchorage i» lO to I2 fathoms, sandy bottom, will be fojnd about
5 cables within port Blakeney, with Helmet peak Hi;en just open of
Promise point bearing N. by W. ^ W., and Observation point on the
north shore of East bay bearing E. by N. ^ N.

* See Admiralty plan: — Fort Blakeney on nheet of plaus, No. 1462; scale, »i».1
inches.

CHAr. II.] PORT BLAKENEY. — MORRIS BAY. 27

Tides. — It is hi{?l> wator, full and change, in port Blakeney, at Noon ;
springs rise 13 feet, neaps 8 feet.

SuppliOR. — Wood and water may be obtained in port Blakeney.

Rock cod and other fish may be caught in abundance on Cod reefs,
and shell fish (clams and cockles) in the sandy bays. They are readily
obtained at low water by digging in the -nud and sandy ground, especially
in those places over which a fresh water stream runs. •

Wild fowl are also plentiful in the season.

Directions. — Approaching port Blakeney from the southward
Helmet peak should be kept just open of the eastern point of Lady island
(Long point) bearing N. by E. | E., and when within o cables <roQi
the latter a N.E. ^ K. course should be steered towards Oke island.
The clearing mark before mentioned for leading between the Oke and Cod
reefs should be brought on astern, namely. White rocks in line with the
nortn end of Passage island bearing W. ^ N., and when Maik and Oke
islands are seen in line bearing N.W. by N. a vessel will be eastward of
Cod reefs, and may then haul "nto the harbour with the south extreme of
William island astern, bearing North, and anchor in the depth and position
before mentioned. ,,

MORRIS BAY, situated on tlic south side of Moss passage, about
one mile within its western entrance, is 2| cables wide and extends in
a south-easterly direction fo'- 3 cables, terminating in a cul-de-sac
which dries at low water. Westerly winds send a swell into the
anchorage ; but the bay ^)0ssesscs the great advantage of permitting the
state of the weather in Milbauk sound being ascertained when at anchor,
and if fog be prevalent (as is often the case) ii cun be seen from Morris
bay.

Bird rock, situated at the western entrance of Moss passage, is
3 I'eet above higli water, with I'oul ground extending from it 2 cables
to the eastward. This rock lies E. by S. (Hstant 3 cables from the south
extreme of CI iif island. The south extreme of the North island group
seen just open southward of the south extreme of ClitF island, bearing
W. by N. leads southward of Bird rock. ,"^ ^ •

Kitty patch lies at the eastern entrance of Morris bay, a cable
from the eastern shore. This bank is one cable in extent north and south,
with depths of 4 and 5 fathoms, sand.

Directions. — Approaching Morris bay, the mid-channel course
should be kept between Bird rock and Salal point ; and if Vancouver rock

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [chap. ii.

be uncovered, it should be kept asteru bearing S.W. by W. (westerly).
When the south extreme of Clifif island is seen, open northward of Bird
rock, bearing W. J N., that mark kept on astern will lead to the mouth of
Morri bay,

jd^.IlCll0rag6 will be found in 12 to 14 fathoms, sandv bottom, a
cable from the western shore, with Salal point shut in by the western
entrance point of Morris bay, bearing W. by S. ^ S., and Detached island
(north side of Moss passage) bearing N.N.W,

Supplies. — Good water may be obtained in Morris bay. Clams and
cockles can be gathered in abundance. Plover and other birds frequent
Bird rock. Berries grow in abundance on Salal point.

ALEXANDRA PASSAGE lies noithward of Vancouver rock
and the North island group. Small steam vesjcls, possessing local know-
ledge, make use of Alexandra passage ; and especially when coming from
the northward if wishing to anchor in Morris bay. But this passage
is barely 6 cables wide in its narrowest part ; and in the event of an
accident to the machinery a vessel using it would be in a dangerous
position.

Dangers. — Vancouver rock, the ledges northward of North island
group, and the other dangers in Alexandra passage have been already
deso'ibed. ClifF island is nearly steop-lo, but the small islet close
northward of it has foul ground extending from it one cable to the
westward.

SoundillgS. — The depths in Alexandra passage are 11 to 42 fathoms,
rocky at the former, aiid nuul at the latter depth.

Directions. — A vessel compelled by circumstances to make use of
Alexandra passage should keep point tJorkins (western side of Fiulaysou
channel), in liie ^vith Low point, bearing N. by W. ^ W., whicn is
the general leading nuirk througli tliis passage. It is, howevtn-, recom-
mended alternately to open and close those points, especially when
neiiriiig Nortl; ishmd group, so as to keep in mid-channel.

SCHOONER PASSAGE leads into Laredo sound, and its
eastern entrance is situated in the uorth-Avtst corner of Milbank K)mid.
This passage is obstvucted by islands, islets, rocks, and sunken dangers.
No specific directions can l)e given for it. It is occasionally made use of
by the small coasting craft ; the large canoes of the Queen Charlotte
islanders also pass througli it when making the passage to Vancv. 'cv
island. , , . ,

CHAP, 111 ALEXANDRA PASSAGE.— riNLAYSON CUANNEL, 29

PINLAYSON CHANNEL is the main channel leading north-
ward from Milbank sound.

From mid-channel between Jorkins and Low points, Finlayson
channel extend? in a northerly direction for 3 miles; thence in a
general direction N.N.W. | W. westerly for 18 miles, and N. ^ E.
6 miles to the head of Carter bay, with an average width of one to 2
miles. The land on both sides is from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. Unless
where the ^ sgetation has been denuded from the mountain sides by land-
slips both shores are thickly wooded, the pine and cedar predominating;
occasionally their dork green foliage is reliced by the bright light green
leaf of the maple.

Landmarks. — Stripe mountain lies at the south-east entrance of
Finlayson channel and has already been described at page *^0. The summit
of Cone island (Bell r^ak), together with two high waterfalls which fall
into the sea on th'j south-east side of Sarah island, are the principal
landmarks of importance.

Soundings.— The depths in Finlayson channel are from 40 fathoms,
rock, to no bottom at 153 fathoms. The former depth was found in
mid-channel abreast the north extreme of Cone islaid.

Oscar passage leads eastward out of Fir layson channel, and lies
between Dowager and Roderick island;?. This channel is about one mile
wide, and 6 miles long to its junction with Mathieson channel. There is
no bottom at 38 fathoms in mid-channel in Oscar passage.

Bulley bay situated on the south shore of Oscar passage, 3^ miles
within its western entrance, though small, affords temporary anchorage in
15 fathoms, a cable from the shore, and is occasionally used by the coasting
' '' I, vessels. ' ^ ' ' , ' ' •

^ ^ Sisters are two amall islets, lying 2 cables from the eastern shore of

Finlayson channel, 3^ miles northward of Oscar passage. They lie north-
west and south-east 4 Cjibns from eaca other, and are joined by ledges
which uncover at low water. Those "slets are wooded, about 90 feet high.

Nowish (Otter Cove)* l-^s 5 cables northward of the Sisters
islets, between Indian and Susan islands. The entrance, northward of
I Indian island, is 2 cables wide ; the cove then extends in an E.S.E, direction

i for 5 cables, contracting near its head, to a cable wide, and having on its

i north shore, about 4 cables within the cove, a small bay, which affords

anchorage for small vessels in 10 to 14 fathoms, sandy bottom, in the
middle of the bay.

• See Ailmiralty plan: — Nowish covi-, on sheet of phins, No. 1463; scale, »/i«4
incheH.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. ir.

Jackson passage is an unexplored urm, on the eastern shore of the
channel ; it is 2 cables wide, and extends in an easterly direction from its
entrance.

Mary COVG, situated on the eastern shore, 5^ miles northward of
the Sisters islets, is barely a cable wide at its entrance, and extc.ids in a
northerly direction for 5 cables, terminating in a sandy beach. There are
depths of 24 and 7 fathoms in mid-channel within this cove ; and at
2 cables southward, 130 fathoms, rock.

Cone island, on the western shore of Finlayson channel, is 3^
miles long in a N.W. ^ N. and S.E. ^ S. direction, and about 5 cables broad,
The summit of this islam.. ;' it- i about one mile from its south extreme,
is conical in shape, 1,280 fefi ; the eastern and western sides are abrupt

and precipitous ; but the land .opes gently to the northward terminating
in Wedge point. • • ' • .

' Jane island situated 5 cables northward of Cone island is about one
mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and 5 cables broad. It is low and
woodsd, the tops of the trees being 200 feet high.

Sarah, island lie?* 6 cables northward of Jane island. It is 15 miles
long in a N.N.W. and S.SE. direction, and one mile to 2^ miles broad. This
island reaches its grea est elevation of 3,(XX) feet, at 4 miles from its south
extreme. On the south-east side of the island, at 7 miles from the south
extreme, an unexplored bay faces south-eastward, and :it 3^ miles from the
south extreme of Sarah island, on its eastern shore, there are two high
waterfalls. . . , ., ; j,t. .

Watson bay lies on the eastern side of the Finlayson channel, 9 miles
northward of Sisters islets. This unexplored bay is one mile wide at its
entrance, and extends in an easterly direction.

Wallace bight lies 2 miles northward of Watson bay. It is one
mile wide at its entrance, and takes a northerly direction for one mile.
There is no bottom at 106 fathoms, between its entrance points.

Goat cove, situated one mile northward of Wallace bight, is 5 cables
wide, and extends in an easterly direction for 5 cables, terminating
in a sandy beach. There are depths of 23 to 34 fathoms within this cove,
the former being close to the head.

Sheep passage is nearly one mile wide, and leads eastward from
Finlayson channel, just south of Carter bay. At 3 miles within its
western entrance, it trends northward until its junction with Mussel

Mussel inlet lias not been explored since Vancouver's visit in 1793.
It is stated to have the same general characteristics as the other inlets.

•mm

CBAP. II.]

CONE ISLAND. — CARTER BAY.

CARTER BAY.* — This excellent stopping place lies at the head
of Finlayson channel, 26 miles within its entrance, and should be recognised
by the high cliffs on its western shore.

Carter bay is 4 cables wide at its entrance, abreast the anchorage
ground, and alx)ut 6 cables deep in a northerly direction. The head of the
bay terminates in a large stream, fronted by an extensive flat. This
stream takes a north-easterly direction for about a mile, to the foot of a
waterfall, at the mouth of a lake.

AnchorEge will be found in 14 to 15 fathoms, mud bottom, 1^ cables
from the eastern shore, and 2 cables from the sand flat at the head
of the bay ; with the entrance points of the bay bearing S.E. | S. and
S.S.W. ^ W. respectively. . . .

Supplies. — Water can be obtained from the large stream at the head
of the bay. This bay is probably one of the best watering places along
the coast. Trout abounds in the fresh water stream. Tracks of bear and
deer were seen on the shore.

Wild fowl frequent Carter bay. The shell flsh, of whatever kind, should
not be eaten.

Tides. — Jt is high-water, full and change, in Carter bay at Noon ;
springs rise 13 feet. • ' -\/^.

Observation spot, on the western shore of the bay, is in latitude
52° 49' 41" N., longitude 128° 24' 34" W.

HIE KISH NARROWS Ho northward of Sarah island, and
lead from Finlayson channel into Graham r^ach. This channel is
about 5^ miles long, in a general N.W, and S.E. direction, and from
2^ cables to one mile wide. The western part of Hie Kish narrows lies
about half a point more west and east than the eastern part. The depths
in the narrows are 31 and 73 fathoms in mid-channel, bottom sand and
shells.

Hewitt rock lies at the western entrance of Hie Kish narrows,
nearly in mid-channel. This dangerous sunken rock has 10 feet over it,
with deep water close to.

The north shore of the channel should be kept on board when
navigating the western portion of Hie Kish narrows. The south

* It was 80 named by Vancouver, from a seaman of the Discovert/, n.imed John
Carter, having died here in June 1793, from eating poisonous mussels. The mussels,
hcwever, were said to have been gathered on the sand and not on the rocks. (Van«
oouver's voyages. Vol. II., pp. 285-e.) Sec Admiralty p'an: — Carter bay, on sheet of
plana, No. 1901; scale, m= 4 inches.

MILBANK SOUND TO CIIVTIIAM SOUND. [ciiap. n.

point of Carter bay, seen just open of the north extreme of Sarah it>hvnd,
bearing S.E. | E., leads northward of Hewitt rook.

KLEMTOO PASSAGE* Hes between Cone and Swindle islands.
The passage is about 3^ miles long in a north-west and south-east
direction, and in some parts barely a cable wide. Its southern entrance is
a cable wide, and extends in a N.W. ^ W. direction for about one mile ;
thence in a general direction N.W. | N. for 2^ miles, to abreast the north
extreme of Jane island. The depths in mid-channel are 10 and 30
fathoms, sand and shells, with rock at intervals.

Though narrow, this passage is safe (provided the mid-channel course
be kept), and affords anchorage almost throughout. The tides are
comparatively weak within it.

AnCllorEge) suitable to vessels of moderate length, will be found
nearly in mid-channel, a cable from the shore of Cone island, at 1^ miles
v/ithin the eastern entrance, in 12 fathoms, sand and shells.f

Tides.' — It is high-water, full and change, in Klemtoo passage at Noon ;
springs rise 13 feet; neaps 8 feet; and the neaps range 3 feet.

Observation spot) on » small islet close to the western shore of
Star island, is in lat. 52° 34' 22" N., long. 128° 32 09" W.

South passage lies between Cone and Jane islands, and is 5 cables
wide, with depths of 18 and 37 fathoms, rock.

Kelp Patcll lies a cable to the southward of Jane island, and is
about a cable in extent in a south-east and north-west direction. The
depths over Kelp patch are 5 to 1 2 feet.

Berry point (north side of Swindle island) seen just open of Legge point
(south side of Cone island) bearing S.S.E. ^ E., will lead southward of
Kelp patch.

Wedge rock uncovers at low water, and lies 50 yards from the
north extreme of Cone island.

Ripple bank, with 1 1 fathoms, rocky bottom, lies nearly in mid-
channel of South passage.

Directions. — When proceeding through South passage, the south
shore should be kept on board, passing 2 cables northward of Cone
island.

NORTH PASSAGE lies between Jane and Sarah islands, and is
5 cables wide, with depths from 22 fathoms to no bottom at 38 fathoms.

* See Admiralty plan: — Klemtoo pasaage and anchornge, on sheet of plans, No.
1462 ; scale, «»=4 inches,
f A vessel using this anchorage should be prepared for a foul anchor when weighing.

CHAP. II.] KLEMTOO PASSAGE. — TOLMIE CHANNEL. 33

Danger patch with one to 3 fathoms water over it, lies a cable

north-westwurd of Jane island. . ■ '•,

Directions. — North passage is to he preferred to South passage
when communicating between Finlayson and Tolmie channels. Keep
nearer the north shore, and pass 2 cables south of Sarah ishind.

TOLMIE CHANNEL situated between Princess Royal and
Sarali islands, is aliout 1 ') miles long in a general N.N.W. and 8.S.E.,
direction, and from a half to cue mile wide, with depths from 3o fathoms to
no 'ottom at 101 fathoms. Froiu a position in mid-channel al)reast the north
end of Cone Lsland, Tolmie channel extends N.VV. J N. for 5 miles, to
abreast a small islet on the north shore, thence N.N,W. for 10 miles,
until its junction with Fraser reach.

On the south shore, 2^ miles northward of Sarah island, an extensive
arm takes a southerly diiection, and is reported to communicate with
Laredo sound. Abreast the north-eastern point of this inlet, a small islet
lies close to the shore of Sarah island.

Caution. — The northern roach of Tolmie channel looks directly
into this inlet, care is therefore necessary when approaching from the
northward not to mistake this unexplored arm for the reach leading to
Klemtoo passage.

At 2 miles northward of the abovcvmeutioned inlet, on the south shore
of Tolmie channel, lies another unexplored passage, facing the south-east.

Tolmie rock, with 4 feet water lies 100 yards from the shore of
Sarah island, at 5 cables within the northern entrance of the Tolmie
channel.

Directions. — Tolmie channel, though not so wide as Finlayson
channel, is preferable in some respects, espceially if coinpel-.ed tube under
way at night. The mid-channel course should be steered throughout,
except when navigating the northern part of the channel, when the south
shore should be neared to avoid Tolmie rock. .... • :, '■

Tides. — The flood stream approaches from the southward, and is
stronger in Finlayson than in Tolmie channel. The ebb, however, is
stronger in Tolmie channel, and runs for 1^ hours after the ebb has ceased
in Finlayson channel. In the narrow parts of these channels, hot' flood
and ebb streams attain a velocity of 3 knots an hour at springs.

In Klemtoo passage, the flood stream is but little felt, the great body
of water passing into Finlaysoii channel. The ebb .seldom exceeds the
rate of one mile an hour. . .

GRAHAM REACH situated northward of the junction of
Tolmie channel with Hie Kish narrows, is about 17 miles long, in a
Q 9016.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [chap. n.

general N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and iVoni a ha^f to one
mile broad, with depths of 38 fathoms, rock, and 150 fathoms, sand and
shells. From tlie north-west extreme of Sarah island this roach takes
a N.W. by N. (northerly) direction for 7 miles, to abreast Swansou bay,
thence it takes a N.W. ^ N. direction for 10^ miles to abreast lied cliff
point.

In general features this reach resembles Finlayson channel.

GreGD. inlet li^s on the north shore, 2 miles northward of Sarah
island. This niicxplorod arm takes an easterly direction at its entrance.

Flat point li<'s "» ll'C west shore, 3 miles westward of Green inlet.
This point is wooded, flat, .and comparatively low. Abreast Flat point
on the south shore of the channel lies a remarkable large boulder
rock.

Dangers. — Tliere are no known dangers at one cable from the shore
in this reach.

SwanSOn bay lic*^ on the north shore, 7 miles from Sarah island.
There is a conspicuous waterfall on the south shore of tiie channel abreast
Swanson bay.

Anchorage may be obtained in 19 fathoms, sandy bottom, in the northern
part of this bay, with the conspicuous waterfall on the south slioro shut in
with the north entrance point, and Flat point shut in with the south
entrance point of the bay.

Khutze is «» unexplored arm, on the north shore, 6 miles westward
of Swanson bay. It is 5 cables wide, and lies in a N.E. Ijy E. direction
from its entrance.

Anchorage i^ reported by Indians at the head of this inlet.

Aaltanhash i« another imexamined inlet on the north shore, 2 miles
westward of Khutze. In size and direction it is similar to Khutze, ajid
is reported by Indians to afford anchorage.

Tide' — The tides meet abreast Aaltanhash inlet.

Red cliff point, the turning point into Fraser reach, lies on the
south shore, 17^ miles from Sarah island. This point terminates in u
conspicuous cliff of red brown colour. r - — ,

FRASSR REACH is the name of the channel north-westward of
Graham reach. It is 12^ miles long in a general W. by N. and E. by S.
direction, and a half to 1^ miles wide, with depths of 62 fathoms, rock, to
no bottom at 145 faihonns.

In features it resembles Finlayson channel.

cnAi*. n.]

GRAHAM BEACH. — WRTGnT SOUND.

W^ark island, is H miles long in nn oast and west direction, and
lialf a niilo broad. The east extreme of this island lies W.N.VV., distant
one niiln from Red cliff point. The channel on both sides of the island is
deep, but that to the south is slijjjluly the wider. There is a bay on the sonth
shore of the channel, abreast Wark island, at the hciid of wiiich is a fine
trout stream, communi(;atinj; with a large lake. Fraser reach from
abreast Wark island, runs in a W, by N. direction for o miles, thence
W.N.W. for 6 miles to abreast Kingcombe point.

Klekane an unexamined arm on the north shore, abreast Wark
island, is 5 cables Avide, and runs in a N.W. direction from its entrance.
Approaching from the south-eastward, this arm appears as the continuation
of Graham reach.

Anchorage may from Indian report be obtained at the head of
Klekane inlet.

Landslip point li<'« on the north shore, 4 miles westward of Wark
island. Over this point is a remarkable landslip.

KingCOmbO point* tlie turning point into McKay reach, lies on the
south shore 12 miles from Red cliff point. The point is long, sharp, and
conspicuous. .

McKAY REACH is the name of the channel westward of
Fraser reach, leading into Wright sound. This reach is about 8 miles
long in a general W.S.W. and E.N.E. direction, and from one mile to
2 miles wide, with no bottom in mid-channel at 139 and 225 fathoms, the
latter depth at 2 cables southward of Gumming point.

From mid-channel abreast Kingcombe point, the reach takes a W.S.W.
direction for 4 miles to abreast Trivett point ; thence a S.W. by W.
direction for 4 miles to abreast Gumming point. Westward of King-
combe point, a deep bay lies on the soiith shore, between Kingcombe and
Trivet points.

The land on the north shore of the channel is high and bold, with
mountains 3,000 feet high. The land on the south shore is not so high;
nnd near the summits of the mountains are some extensive bare patches
of slate colour,

WRIGHT SOUND.— This sheet- of water is 9 miles long in an
east and west direction, and 2| miles wide at its narrowest part, with no
bottom at 119 and 220 fathoms.

la its eastern portion lies McKay reach, and in its western, Gron-
ville channel. Whale channel and Lewis passage load south waid, and
Douglas channel and Vcrney passage lead northward from AViight
sound.

c 2

MILBANK SOIIN]) TO CITATIIAJF SOUND. [ciiai. ii.

Landmarks. — Gil island on the south side of the Kouiid culminates
in a well defined snow clad peak 3,0(X) f(!et high. (.SVc page 84.)

The mountains north-eastward of Ilohnes bay liave bar(> patches down
their sides.

Promise island, on tlie nortii siile of tiie sound, with its two dome-shajitd
mountains, and the soutli-east cvlreme of that ishmd (cape run-well).

HOLMES BAY* (Quel-ak-sca-hx), situated on the eastern shore
of the sound at the entrance of Whale channel, is H cables wide nt its
entrance^ and recedes iu an easterly direction for about 4 cables, termi-
nating in a sand Hat, which extends a cable from the head of the bay.

The north entrance point is high and bold, and a small islet lies off the
south entrance point of the bay.

Anchorage ^\ill l>e found in 14 fathoms, sand, with the south
extreme of Prumis<' island in line with the north point of tiie bay, bearing
W. by N. I N., and Gil mountain iu line with the south entrance point,
S.W. by W.

Tides. — It >^ liigli water, full and change, in Holmes bay at Ih.;
springs rise 13 feet, neaps 10 feet.

Observation spot, on the south-west point of the bay, is in hit.
53° 1(3' 2.V' N., long. 129" '/ 19" W.

Fisherman cove -vas the name given by Vancouver to an anchor-
age one mile eastward of Turtle point, close to the shore of Gil island. The
water is deep, and the anchorage reported indifferent.

PROMISE ISLAND lies at south end of Douglas channel.
The island is 3.| miles long in a N.N. W. and 8.S.K. direction, with an
extreme breadth of 2 miles. Promise island is covered witli pine and cedar,
and culminates in two peaks of dome-shape, 1,680 and 1,710 feet high
respectively. The south-east extreme of the island (cape Farewell)
terminates in a high, bold clilf. A conspicuous white clift' lies on the
south shoie, midway between ca[»e Farewell and Thom point.

The east shore of the island is high, with an occasional liay with a sandy
beach at its head. The north extreme (Dawson point) is low and
wooded.

Farewell ledge uncovers at low water, and extends 2 cables south-
east of cape Farewell. This ledge is nearly steep-to, there being no
bottom at 40 fathoms at 30 yards from it. Ledges extend one cable from
the eastern shore of Pi'omise island.

* See Admiralty plan :— Hohnes bay, on sheet, No. lUOl j scalt-, »i = 5'5 inches.

CHAP. M.] HOLMES IJAY. — COGIILAN ANCHORAGE. 37

Dawson ledge extends 2 cablos northward of Dawson point, and

uncovcr.s ut liaH' v\>h.

COGHLAN ANCHORAGE,* situated about one mile westward
of cape Farewell, is I] cables wide at its entrance between Camp and
Thoni points, and extends in a north-west direction for 2 miles, widening
within the entrance to 4 cables.

Thorn ledge extends 100 yards south-west of Thorn point, ("the
eastern entrance point of Coghlan anciiorage).

Promise ledge extends no yards from Promise point.

Observatory ledge extends lOO yards eastward of Observation

point.

Harbour rock is a dangerous rock of small extent, Avhich uncovers
(5 feet at Knv water, and lies nearly in mid-channel near the head of tho
harbour. This rock is nearly steep-to, there being depths of 10 and 18
fathoms at 100 feet from the rock.

Gil mountain seen in line with Thorn point, bearing S.E. (easterly) will
lead north-east, and Camp point (west entrance point of Coghlan anchor-
age) seen just open of Observation point, bearing S.E. j S., will lead
westward of Harbour rock.

Otter shoal extends 100 yards from the western shore at the head
of tho anchorage, with depths of 3 fathoms and less upon it.

Soundings. — Southward of Observation point there are depths of
24 to 40 fathoms ; northward of that point 19 to 7 fathoms, sand. -

Anchorage i" ^ to 7 fathoms, sand, will be found near the head of
Coghlan anchorage, with Gil mountain just shut in with Thorn point,
bearing S.K., and Stephens point just open of Letitia point (Stewart
narrows) l)earing N.E. by N. Or, for a long vessel, or not wishing to go
beyond Harbour rock, a Ijerth, in 24 fathoms, in mid-channel, at o cables
south-east of Observation point, may be found.

Directions. — When entering, keep mid-chanuc'. ..void the ledge
which uncovers olf Thom point, and proceed to the anchorage with the
leading mark above given for clearing Harbour rock on astern ; and
anchor as before directed.

Stewart narrows lead northward of Promise island into Douglas
channel. The tides in this passage are strong, and the channel coulined ; it
is therefore not recommended.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Coghlan anchorage at
Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 18 feet, neaps 14 feet.

* See Admiralty plan: — Coghlau anchorage, on Hlieet of pluus, No. 218U ; scale, »« =
3*25 inches. ' "•• ■' ' .- • -

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [chap. ii.

Tidal streams. — Tho Hood Htream which enters Cuinpimia sound
from tlic southward, divides oft' Passage ishind, and the main body of
water passef up Squally channel. Tiio leaser body, passing into Whale
channel, skirts the north sliore of Gil island, and unites at one milo
northward of* Turtle point, with the main body of water which has
entered VVriglit sound by Lewis passage. The flood stream from that
position, sets directly across Wright eoutid, and impinging against Camp
point, causes very strong eddies olf that point, and is then deilected
towards Grenville channel.

A portion of (he flood stream by Whale channel turns into oNIcKay reach,
and meets abreast of Aaltanhasii inlet the flood stream from the Finlayson
channel. Another i)ortion proceeds into Douglas channel and Verney
I)assage. On the ebb, the reverse takes place, the main body of water from
Wright sound obtaining an exit bv Whale channel.

The ebb streams from Wright sound, Douglas channel, and McKay
reach, unite nearly midway between Maple point and Holmes bay, setting
directly towards the latter, producing strong eddies at the moiith of
Holmes bay. Thence the stream sets fairly through Whale channel, and
passing north and south of Pass.age island, unites with the stream of
Sqnally channel, and united they pass out into Campania sound.

Both flood and ebb stieams attain the velocity of 3 knots an hour, at
springs, in the contracted portions of the channels.

Dea,n Canal.— -sve page 47.

GRENVILLE CHANNEL leads north-westward out of Wright
sound ; and is the usual channel taken by steam vessels when proceeding
to the northern waters of British Columbia.

Grenville channel at its south-east end abreast Yolk point is 8
cables wide, thence it extends in a W. by N. \ N. direction for 4 miles to
abreast Davenport point, with an average width of one mile. From this
point the channel takes a W.N.W. direction for 11 miles, and narrows to
3 cables as Low inlet is approached, seldom exceeding 4 cables in width
until north-westward of Evening point (Klewnuggit). From a position
in mid-channel one mile westward of Lowe inlet, the Grenville channel
takes a N.W. by W. | W. direction, for 7 miles, to abreast Evening point*
thence it widens out to one and 3 miles ; and extends W. by N. ^ N. for
23 miles, to abreast the Ogdcn channel. The depths in Grenville channel
are 48 and 133 fathoms, rock.

The land on both sides is high, reaching the elevation of 3,500 feet
on the north ; and from 1,000 to 2,000 feet on the south shore, and, as a
rule, densely wooded with pine and cedar.

The mountains rise almost perpendicularly above water; and cause the
southern portion of this narrow channel to appear eren narrower than

CHAP. II.]

GRENVILLE CHANNEL. — LOWE INLET.

it h (3 c.'ihles). lUit the f^ciiLTiil offict, of so iimiiy mouIltuin.^ liHiiif; one
bcliiml tlio other, rciHlors tho CJrciivillc channel one of tlie most beuuliful
landscapes on this coa.st ; and \h e(|niille»l only hy Klcintoo puHsago.

(irenvillo channel is comparatively free iiom danger, ut half a cable
fiom either shore, with the following exception : —

Morning reefs extend N.W. by W. nearly one mile from Evening
point, and o cables from the north shore of Nul)aiiliali bay.

Tho .south shore ot Grenville chainud must be kept on board when
passing Morning reefs.

Bare islet (north side of Klewnuggit inlet) kept open of Camp point
(south side of that iidet) bearing N.K. ;| E. will lead westward of Morning
reiifs.

LOWE INLET,* situated on the noith shore of Grenville channel,
about 1 1 miles fron\ Wright sound, is a little over 2i mbles wide at it3
entrance between James and Hepburn points. From mid-channel, between
the entrance points, the inlet extends i'.\ a N. by E. direction for 5 cables ;
thence N.N.E. fur G cables, to the mouth of Nettle basin, and widens to
4 cables.

Nettle basin is nearly circular in shape, with a diameter of 5 cables; but
between its entrance pdints the basin is barely a cable wide.

Into the north-east corner of Nettle basin, a large stream flows, with a
waterfall clo.so to its mouth, and several others within (Verney falls).
This stream is reported to be connected by a chain of lakes, with Kit-Kia-
tnh inlet (Douglas channel). . ■

Landmarks. — -On the south shore, at 2 miles eastward of Lowe
inlet, there is a remarkable bare hill, 4()0 feet high.

Tom islet, small and wooded islet, lies close to the north shore, at 2
cables westward of Lowe inlet.

On the south side of tho inlet a remarkable mountain, with a conical
summit (Anchor cone), rises to the heighl, of 2,010 feet. From its summit,
the land slopes northward and south-westward. The latter spur terminates
in the eastern entrance point of Lowe iidot ; and when seen from the ea.st-
ward, makes as a long, low, wooded projection. Over the noith-west shore
of the irdet mountains, with bare summits, rise to the height of 2,000 feet.

High water rocks, situated one cable from the western shore, at
4 cables within Low inlet, cover at high water, and lie close to each other
in a north and south direction. There is a depth of 23 fathoms, at 100
feet eastward of the rocks. ■

♦ See Admiralty plan: — Lowe inlet, on bheet of plans, No. 2189; scale, m'=3'7S
inches.

3IILBAXK SOUND lO CIIATUAM SOUND.

TciiAr. II.

)'!

;

I
I- i

I!'

Don jda/t, with depths of 3 iathoms uud less upon it, extends one
cable from the head of the bay south of Don point, on the eastern shore.

Souudinf S. — At 2 cables within the mouth of Lowe inlet depths
of 10 fathoms itiid less extend across. Northward of that position the
water deepens to 19 and 20 fathoms, nuid. Within Nettle i)asin, the
general depths are \'i to 17 fathoms, mud.

Anchorage fov vessels of moderate length -.vill be i'o-aid, in mid-
channel, at 2 eables wuiiia Hie inlet, in 8 and 10 fathoms, sand and
shells. In this position, Anclior cone ni'iuntaiii sluMild licar E. b} N. ;
and the eastern entran'.'e point of the harbour (Ilepbtun point) S.E. by S.
For a long vessel, morr) convenient anchorage Avill be found higher up the
harl)Our, in mid-ehamiel, in 20 fathoms, nmd, with Anchor eone mountain
bearing S.E. by E.

Supplies. — Good water can lie procured in Lowe iidet, from the
stream in NettV basin.

Tr(Jut may be caught in that >lr(.'am.

Clams are found on the flat s't the eastern shore of Nettle basin.

Nettles of a wholesome nature grow on the shores n\' ijic basin ; and
are useful as an antiscorbutic .vtien cooked.

Whiting, in abundance, are caught on Whiting bank, just within the
inlet.

X deS. — It is high water, full and change, in Lo\\c inlet at Oh. 30m. ;
springs rise 17 feet ; neaps 15 feet.

Observatiom spot lies on the western shore, one cable within
the inlet; and is sitmvteil in hititudo 08 32' 30" N., longitude
129-^ 3.5' 4S" W.

KLEWNUGGIT INLET* Hes9i miles westward of Low iidct,
on the north shore, and one mile westward of Evening point. The entrance
to this inlet lies between Camp point (south sliore), and Leading island,
and is 4 cables wide. Thence the inlet takes a?i ea>terly direction for
4 cables, and there divides -, iiii; linger arm (Exposed iirm) extends in
a south-easterly direction for 3 miles, and terminates in the ustinl mannei',
swamp fronted by sand flat. I'he shorter arm takes a north-west directioii
for 1;^ miles, passing northward of Leading island, and is 2^ cables
wide.

Morning veeff have already been described {sec pago 39). Witli that
exception, Klewnuggit has iio dangers, beyond & eabie from the shore.

• .9et' Admiritity plau :— Kluwuiiggit ink'l, oil j^ncot oi' pliinH, No. aib'J ; seuk-, »« =
8' 76 inches.

i!^

C1IAI-. It] KLEWNIIGGIT INLET. — STUART ANCHOUAGE.

Soundings. — The water in Exposed arm is deep, there being no
bottom at 38 fathoms. In the north-west arm there are depths of 15 and
24 fathoms, mud.

AncllOragO mfiy be obtained in the nortli-west arm (Ship anchorage)
in lo to 20 t'at'oms, mud, in mid-channel, one cable from either shore.

Directions. — Entering Klewniiggit inlet, having brought on the
clearing mark for passing westward ul' Morning reefs, k(-ep mid-channel
between Camp point and Leading island. Pass 2 cables south-east of the
latter, and anchor on its north side in Ship anchorage. In this position the
south-east extreme of Leading island should be seen in line with a
conspicuous clilf of purple colour, on the south shore of Exposed arm,
bearing South.

Tides. — It is high water, fidl and change, in Klewnuggit anchorage at
Oh. ',U)m. : springs vise 17 feet.

Observation spot f* «• high-water rock, close to Morning point ;
IS situattjd in latitude 53 ' 39' 24" N., longitude 129'' 44' ol" VV.

STUART ANCHORAGE,* situated on the south shore of
Grenville channel, 27 miles westward of Lowe inlet, lies 6 cables westward
of a long, low, wooded projection, which serves to distinguish it.

Stag rock uncovers 13 feet at lov/ water, and lies 4 cables W. by
N. k N. from the above mentioned point. This rock has foul groimd
extending from it 1 cables in a W.N.W. direction, ahd a small patch which
uncovers at low water lies one cable south of the rock.

The whole of this foul ground is indicated by kelp during summer and
autumn.

Anchorage ^vill be found in 10 to 15 fathoms, rock, \V. i{ S. 2 cables
from Stag ock ; with the south extreme of Gibson island seen touching
the north side of Pitt island (Calvert point) bearing W.N.W. northerly.

Directions. — 1» proceeding for t is anchorage, especiidly at high
watt'i", ciir*- is necessary. I'ass 2 ('<r./le3 westward of the foul ground
extending from tiie Stag rock, and anchor when at one cable to the
southward.

Tides. — It i*^ higii water, full and change, in Stuart aiichornge at
Oh. 30tn. ; sjjrings rise 17 feet.

The tidal streams meet al)reast Evening point ; eastward of that point
the Hood approaches from the eastward, and westward of the point from
the westward.

♦ Sfi' Admiralty iiluu : — StMurt nncLorago, uu shift of ijIuus, Xo. I'JOl ; sfnle, wi —
r iuchcs.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUlsB. [chap. ii.

At springs the flood st 'earn in the narrow portions of Grenville channel
attains the velocity of 2 knots, and the ebb 4 knots an hour. The latter
stream continues to run for an hour and a half after low water by the
shore.

Abreast Low inlet, strong eddies will be felt on the ebb.

Kxn-geal, an unexplored inlet on the north shore, 5 miles west-
ward of Evening point, is 5 cables wide at its entrance, and runs in a
north-west direction.

A rock which uncovers lies 2 cables south-east of the norJh-west
entrance point of Kxn-geal inlet.

False Stuart anchorage lies on the., south sliore o miles east-
ward of Stuart anchorage. On its north-west side there is a higli, bold,
projection. This point should serve to distinguish False Stiiurt anchorage
from Stunrt anchorage, us the latter has a long, low, projection on its
south-east side. The water is deep, close to the shore.

Kum-ea-lon is an unexplored inlet on the north shore, abreast of
False Stuart anchorage. The entrance is 2 cables wide, and takes a
northerly direction. Some small islets lie near the north sliore of
Grenville channel, westward of Kum-ea-lon inlet.

Gibson islands are a group of islands, situated in the western
portion of Grenville channel, at its confluence with Ogden channel.

The western and largest island is 160 feet high, about one mile in extent,
and wooded. Its shores are broken into several bays. On the east side of
Gibson island lies Bloxham island, of small extent. Lamb islet lies one
cable from the north-east shore of Gibson island.

Watson rock uncovers i 1 feet at low water, and lies 2 cables off" the
south shore of Gibson island.

There is a depth of 47 fathoms, rock, at one cable south of Watson
rock

Bloxham shoal extends 6 cables north-eastward from the south-
east extreme of rioxliam island, and passes northward of Gibson islands
at that distance, with depths of one to 3 fathoms water over it.

GUNBOAT HARBOUR lies l^etween Gibson and Bloxham
islands. This small harbour, Avhicli faces the south-east, affords temporary
anchorage to small vessels, in 4 to 10 fathoms, one cable within the entrance
in mid-channel.

Bedford island 13 of small extent, and lies N.N.W. 5 cables
from Gibson island.

CHAP. II.] FALSE STUART ANCHORAGE. — ARTtlUR PASSAGE. 43

Bedford spit extends 3 cables Kouth-west of Bedford island. The
channel hetwoen Bedford and Gibwon islands has depths of 4 fathoms and
less in it. This passage is not reconmiendcd.

Marrack island lies 5 cables N.N.W, of Bedford island, and is
one mile in extent. ' *

Marrack rock, which uncovers, lies nearly in mid-channel between
Bedford and Marrack islands. . .

KENNEDY ISLAND* i^ ^ miles lonj< in a north-west and
south-east direction, with an average breadth of 3 i.iilcs.

The island is wooded, rising gradually, and cnlminati'ig near the middle
in two conspiv:;ious peaks, 2,765 and 2,470 feet high respectively.

The western and southern shores of Kennedy island ar2 bold, and little
broken ; th j northern shores have not been examined in detail.

Cardcna bay, on the south-east side of Kennedy island, is fronted
by a mud bank, which extends over 5 cables from the shore, with depths
of 5 to 10 fathoms upon it.

AncllOragG in»y be found on this bank, in 7 to 8 fathoms, 3 cables
from the shore of Kennedy island.

LowiS island, situated one mile southward of Kennedy island, is low,
wooded, narrow, and 2^ miles lo in a north-west and south-east
direction.

ARTHUR PASSAGE between Kennidy nml Lewis islands is
about o miles long, in a geueral north-west and south-east dir^ tion, and
about one mile wide.

Herbert reefs lie on the western side of Arthur passage, uuout
5 cables from the north-east extreme of Lewis island.

T'his dangerous cluster consists of two rocks which uncover at low
water, with dejtths of 7 and 9 fathoms between them, lying north-west
and south-east, distant 5 cables from each other.

There are depths of 37 fathoms and over at a cable norili d, and of
20 fathoms at a (•abU^ southward of Herbert reefs.

The eastern and smaller Genu island seen in line with the south extreme
of White Cliff island, bearing N.W. ^ W., will lead northward of
Herbert reefs. ■ "

Soundings. — 'i'^e depths in Arthur passage are from 18 to 63
fathoms, mud.

• See Admirnlty plan :— Brnwn and Edje pmsugen, No. Ui3 ; scule, >«= 1 inches.

MILBA.N'K SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [chap. ii.

LAWSON HARBOUR on the north-west side of Lewis ishuul,
is about 5 cables long in a north-west and south-east dircclion, and
3 cables Avido.

Anchorage for small vessels may be found in 4 fathoms water, in
mid-channel, about one cable within Lawson harbour

Elliott island i'^ low and wooded ; about H miles long in a W.N.VV.
and E.S.E, dii-eciion, with a greatest breadiii of three qiiarters of a mile.

Elizabeth island is nearly 3 miles long in a W.N.W and E.S.E.
direction, with an average breadth of three (luarters of a mile. With the
exception of a hill, 334 feet high, near its eastern end, this island is low
and Avooded.

BlOXam passage, situated between Lewis and Elliott islands, is
about 2 cables wide, with a depth of 21 fathoms in mid-channel.

CHISMORE PASSAGE, between Porcher island and Lewis,
Elliott, and Elizabeth islands, is about 4 miies long in a W.N.W. and
E.S.E. direction, and from 2 to 5 cables wide, with depths of 4 to 21
fathoms, mud.

Kelp passage, between Lewis and Porcher islands is available only
for boats.

Elizabeth re Ck, which uncovers at low water, lies one cable off the
south shore of Elizabeth island, at one; mile within the western entrance of
Chismore passage.

Anchorage mfiy be obtained, in mid-channel, in 7 to 10 fathoms,
2 cables off the south shore of Elliott island ; with ( Jenn islands seen
midway between Elliott and Elizabeth islands, bearing N.W. by N.

CHALMERS ANCHORAGE li<s on the north-west side of
Elliott island.

Anchorage may be found in 13 to 14 fathom--, 2 cables from the north-
west extreme of Elliott island ; with that extreme seen in line with the
south extreme of White Cliff island, bearing N.E. ^ E,

White Cliff island, situated nearly midway between Kennedy
and Elliott islands, at 6 cables northward of the latter, is about half a mile
long in a north and south direction ; its south extreme terminating in
high, bold, white cliffs.

White Cliff ledge extends 2 tables southward oi Whitt; Cliff
island. There is a depth of 30 fathoms, mud and shells, at one cable
southward of this ledge.

Cecil patch seldom marked by kelp, has 4 fatlumis upon it, and
lies West one milo from the south extreme of White Cliff island. There
are depths of 7 and 18 fathoms at 100 yards from the patch.

CHAP. 11.]

LAWSON HARBOUR. — SKEENA RIVER.

The summit of Kennedy island (Elizabeth peak), seen in line with the
south extreme of White Clift" island, hearing E. by S., will lead northward
ot' Cecil patch.

Bampfleld islands are a group of small islands, lying 2 cables
from ilie north jshoro of Elizabeth island.

Genn islands consist of two small wooded islands, about 120
feet high, lying close together in an east and Avest direction. The eastern
and sm.allei- :';ld:»d lies '.H.W. k W., distant 2^ miles from the south extreme
of White Cliff island.

Bribery island, small and wooded, lies W. by S., 8 cables from the
western Gemi island.

Lawyer group consist of two principal islands, and several smaller
ones, about one mile in extent, in a N.W. by W., and S.E. by E, direction.

The eastern and smallest island of the group lies W. by 8., distant
5 cables from Bribery island.

Cruice rock, of small extent, covers at three-quarters flood, and
lies W. i N., distant 3 cables from the western Lawyer island.

MALACCA PASSAGE, sitnated between Porcher island and
the Genn and J^awyer [groups, is about G miles long, in u W. by N. and
E. by S. direction, and about 1 .\ miles wide, with <ii'i)thri of 21 to 81
I'athoms, mud, the latter depth being found in the western portion of the
channel.

Directions. — The summit of Kenedy island (bare ])atches on north-
west siile), seen in line with the south extreme oi White Clilf island,
bearing E. by S., Avill lead thi'ough ^Malacca pa3sage.

SKEENA RIVER, the largest river on the coast of British
Columbia, northward of Eraser river, taki's its rise in lake Babine, near
the village of Naas-Glee, about 200 miles beyond port Essington. A^
120 miles from port Essingtun the river divides into three branches, known
as the Forks of the Skeena, the principal branch taking a northerly
direction, the others a north-west ami south-east direction respectively.
For about 20 miles above port Essington the Ski-ena river is available
for vessels drawing I feet Avater ; beyond that distance it is only navigable
for canoes. Tiie luad of navigation, (or \essels drawing over 6 feet,
may be said to terminate 6 miles beyond port Essington, and 21 miles
from the mouth of Skeena river.

At 6 miles below port P^ssington, the river divides into three channels,
called North, Middle, and Teli'graph passages.

These passages have not boon examined in detail, and should be
entered only under tiie guidance of a pilot.

MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [ciiAr. ii.

The water, as far as port Essington, is stated to be of a liglit-bhic
colour, similar to tliat of Fraser river. The shores of the Skeena are
said to be low, and covered with small hard wood and cotton trees ;
also good sized wliite oaks, similar to those found on the banks of the
Fraser river. The Skeena is stated to freeze over during the winter
months at 6 miles below port Essington. . ,

MinerElS. — Kitsagatla, on tlie Ske'^na river, is reported to be an ex-
tensive coal country, the seams beinf, ut through by the river, and from

3 to 35 feet thick. Gobi is found in small quantities ; plumbago is also
found.

SuppliOS. — Potatoes of large size and good quality are plentiful; also
berries, which are dried by tiie Indians for their winter food.

TELEGRAPH PASSAGE, the southern and principal channel
of the Skeena river, is about 8 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S.,
with an average width of I^ miles.

The western side of the channel is rendered dangerous by sand flats,
some of which dry, extending from the eastern side of Kennedy island, but
the eastern side has depths of 4| to 17 fathoms.

Caution. — Unless under the guidance of a pilot, as the channels of
the Skeena are subject to periodical changes, it is recommend(>,d, before
attempting them, to buoy the channel by boats or other means.

Directions.* — The following general directions might assist to
trace the Channel: — Keep midway between Kennedy and Marrack
islands until the south extreme of Kennedy islaiul (Seabreeze point) is
seen just open of the rjouth east extreme of that island (Daring point"),
bearing S.W. ^ W., and when distant 1| miles fi-om the latter point, steer
N.N.W. i| W. o^ miles, keeping on the eastern side of the channel, thence
W. by N. for De Horsey island, when the eastern shore of that island
should be kept onboard for about 2^ miles. Thence steer N.p]. \ E. for
5 miles, with the north extreme of De Horsey island astern, bearing
S.W. \ W., which shouM bring a vessel to the anchorage off port Essington.

PORT ESSINGTON lies on the south shore, about 5 miles from
De Horsey island.

Anchorage ^vlll be found in mid-channel, abreast port Essington, in

4 to 6 fathoms, mud.

Raspberry islandst situated eastwarU of port Essington, consist
of three wooded islets, lying close to the eastern shore.

♦ From n running survey made in II. M.S. Daring, in 1878.

t So named by Vancouver on account of the quantity of fine raspberries gathered
tb«re.

CHAP. II.] TELEGRAPH PASSAGE. — PORT ESSINGTOX.

De Horsey island lios about ono mile northward of Kennedy iKhmd.

MiddlO pa>SSa>g6, situated between Kennedy and De Horse y islands,
is obstructod at its western entrance by sand flats, some of which
uncover. It should not be attempted by a stranger.

North. paSSagG Jirs between Tsimpsean peninsula and Smith and
Do Horsey islands. Mount McGrath on Smith island is conspicuous,
2,200 feet high. At the western entrance of this passage several dangers
lie nearly in mi<l-channel. The navigable channel lies on the south shore,
and is barely a cable wide in some parts.

AncllOragO will be found at ono mile within the passage, off Wood-
cock landing on the utrth shore, nearly in mid-channel, in 8 to 10 fathoms.

Soundings. — The depths in the navigable channels of the Skecna,
from the entrances to abrcrust port P^ssington, are from 4 to 20 futhoms.

Tides. — The night tides rise higher than those of the day ; the latter
rising 24 feet at springs.

The flood stream at the entrance attains the velocity of 4, and the ebb
5 knots an hour at springs.

DEAN CANAL.

The Admiralty survey did not extend to the waters of Dean canal and
Gardner channel.

The navigation is, however, considered to bo free from obstruction.
Her Majesty's sh'-j have at different times visited these localities, and the
charts, as con, , from observations resulting therefrom, as also from
intbmiation furnished l>y the Government of Canada, may be taken, under
ordinary conditions of weather, to be a sullicienl guide, in the hands of u
carefid navigator.

Anchorages. — I" Douglas chaniu'L at Kit-kia-tah, Ci miles north of
Promise island, ainall vessels may anchor in 5 fathoms, h-df a milo within
the inlet.

Bishop cove, at the north part of Ursula channel, has iinchoragc in
15 to 20 fathoms in its N.W. part.

In Kit-i-mat arm, in Clio bay, near the head, anchorage will be found in
17 fathoms. This place is used by II. M. ships when comuiunicaling with
the Kit-i-mat Indians.

Gardner channel : — Richardson point is said to afford anchorage on each
side of it, in from 18 to 5 fathoms. Also at Kemano bay, anchorage of
an indifferent character may be obtained, but the water is deep and shoals
suddenly.

It is state<l to be high water at Kemano bay (.June) at Ih. Oui. p.m.
Springs rise about 9 feet. In the winter months, ice is said to form .it
25 miles from the head of Gardner channel.

CHAPTER III.

CHATHAM SOUND, EDYE AND liKOWN I'ASSAGKS, AND DIXON

ENTRANCE.

Vaiuation 27" Euf^terly in 1883.

CHATHAM SOUND.*

GENERAL REMARKS.— Chatham .sound is tin oxtcnsive sheet
of water about .S8 miles long in a general N.VV. by N. ami S.W. by S.
direction, and from 7 to 14 miles Avide.

It lies between the Tsimpsean peninsula and Stephens and Dnndas
islands, the north-western portion of the sound washing the southern
shores of Alaska.

In the middle of the southern portion of the sound lie two groups of
islands (Rachel and Lucy islands), together with other detached islets and
rocks, especially on the north shore.

At the northern end of Cimtham sound, nearly abreast port Simpson,
there are some clusters of low rocky islets (Connis and Pointers rocks),
which render that portion of the sound dangerous to navigation under
certain conditions, and divide the sound into two navigable channels
(Main and Oriflamr.ie passages).

Chatham sound communicates with Hecate strait by three channels.
Edye passage lies in the south-west corner of the sound, and is the channel
usually taken. ( .SV c page 68.) Brown passage, south of Uundas islands,
though comparatively wide, has strong and irregular tides near its western
end; and a patch of rocks awash at high water lies nearly in mid
channel.

Dixon entrance, the principal, north of Dundas islands, is about o miles
wide, and is the channel usually taken by vessels proceeding northwarvl
along the coast of Alaska.

Landmarks. — On the north shore, in the south -eiustern portion of
Chatham sound, mount Oldfiold and mount McGrath, 2,300 and 2,200 feet
high respectively, are conspicuous.

* See Adiiilralty plan : — Brown and Edyc passages, No. 2,453 ; scale, ?« <= 1 inch.

CHAI-. III.] LANDMARKS. — DANGERS. — SOUNDINGS.

With the exception of a chhsler of bare rocks (Gull rocks) oft" the mouth
of Edyc passage, the islets in that portion of the sound are wooded, of u
conspicuous dark colour.

On the South Dundas island, there arc four conspicuous peaks, ihe
eastern and hifjliest of which is 1,400 Icet high. Northward of Metlah-
Catlah, Mission mountain, and Deer mound, of rounded form, will be seen
I'ising from comparatively low land to the heigiit of 1,300 and 2,230 feet
respectively.

At 2 miles southward of port Simpson, a mountain of triangular shape
witli a sharp summit, rises to 1,110 feet, mount CJrifTiu (Waverly peak).
South-east of mount Griffin, the ridge has several conspicuous peaks.

Mount McNeil, on the north side of Work channel, has a snow-clad
summit> of conical shape, 4,300 feet high.

On the south shore of the sound a conspicuous hill of oval shape (Coast
mound) will be seen on Middle Dundas island, with a chain of wooded
islets, of a peculiarly dark colour, fringing the shore.

Near the north-east (sxtreme of North Dundas island, Table hill with
a flat summit rises to the height of 700 feet, and is conspicuous.
Southward of Table hill, a mountain rises to the height of 2,500 feet
(Thumb peak). Willi the exception of one small islet (^Grassy islet), the
islets and rocks in the northern portion of Chatham sound are bare and
conspicuous.

DANGERS. — Tlie southern portion of Chatham sound is com-
paratively free from danger, the rocky clusters being of considerable
(4evation above high water and moderately steep-lo. Northward of Metlah-
Catlah bay, however, ledges which uncover at low water extend in many
places to the distance of 2 miles from the eastern shore. On the western
side of the sound also, tiiere aro several oft" lying detached sunken rocks,
with deep water close to them. Abreast port Simpson, two clusters ot
rocks lie in the fairway of the sound ; and being but little elevated above
high water, render that portion of the sound dangerous by night or in thick
weather.

The several dangers will be referred to in detail. Northward of Metlah-
(!atlah bay, during a fog, or if uncertain of the position, the eastern shores
of Chatham sound should not be approjvched under 70 fathoms j nor the
western shores under 40 fathoms.

SOUNDINGS. — Tl'e general depths in the southern portion of
Cliatham sound are from 10 to 66 fathoms, the former depth being obtained
upon Alexandra bank nearly in the middle of the sound, northward of Rachel
ishmds. Northward of Metlah-Catlah bay the water deepens. The deep,
water commences near the south extreme of South Dundas island, and
QflOia. u

■

CHATHAM SOUND.

[ciur. 111.

extends towards the mouth of Bij; bay, skirting tlio dnngerouH ledges which
front the eiistcrn shores of the sound, 'i'lio depihs in this portion of the
sound are from ol to 10.5 fathoms, mnd at tlie latter, and roeky bottom
at the former depth. From abreast of J5ig bay, the deep water ext(!n<ls
towards the north extreme of North Dundas island, and widens in
extent, oceupying nearly the wliole of the northern portion of the sound,
with depths from oH to 214 fathoms, mud-bottom, with oceasional patclies
of rock. . .

Anchorages. — Anehorage Avill be found off the north entrance ol
Skeena river, in INIetlali-Callah bay, Duncan bay. Big bay, Pearl
harbour, and port Simpson, on the castei-n side of Cliatlnini sound. Also
in Ttefuge bay (mouth of Edye passage), and in Qlawdzeet (north end of
Stephen island), on the western side of the sound. These several anchor-
ages will be hereafter described. ,

. . SOUTHERN PORTION.

Gull rocks consist of three principal bare rocks, about hall a mile in
extent, the highest rock being about 30 feet above high water. These
rocks lie off the north entrance of Edyo passage, W, l>y N., distant .'J
miles I'rom the north-west extreme of Poreher island (Hunt pointj, and
3^ miles from the nearest j)ortion of Prescott island.

Ettrick rock i?< a dangerous patch of small extent, which uncovers
3 feet at low water. This rock lies S.E. by E. distant 1^ miles from the
centre of the Gull rock cluster. . . ■ -v

HaVGlOCk rock is of small extent, uncovers 6 feet at low water,
and lies S.E. by E., distant 2^ miles from the centre of Gull rock cluster,
and S.W. .\ W., distant one mile from Hunt point. Both Ettrick and
Havelock rocks have deep water close to.

Holland island i>* small, wooded, lO feet high, and lies E. by N. ^ N.,
distant Ij^miles from Green Top islet.

EitSOn island situated off the mouHi of North Skeena passage,
is about 2 cables in extent, and lies N.E. ^ E., distant 1| miles from
Holland island. . .;

Green Top island ia small, 15 feet high, with a patch of shrub on
its summit. This islet lies N.W. by W. \ \V., distant 4| miles from the
western island of the Lawyer group.

Kinnahan islands ^M•^i two in number, about half a mile long, lying
close together in a N.W. and S.E. direction. These islands, which lie about
one mile fi'oui the shore of Tsimpsean per "nslilu, are wooded, about 200

ciur. 111.]

SOUTHERN PORTION. — EAST COAST.

foet higL. The south extreme of South Kinnahun islnuds lies N.N.W.,
di.sdmt 1^ iiiili'H from Green Top Island.

Rachel islaudS (Lak-Oh-witz), consists of two islands, about one
mile in extent, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, wooded, and about 200 feet
high ; lying nearly mitlway between Tsimpseau p-ninsula and Stephen
island.

The south-eastern extreme of the south-east Rachel island lies N.W.,
3 J miles from the northernmost Ci uU rock ; and S.W. by W., 5^ miles from
the south extreme of South Kinnahun island.

Alexandra patch is nearly circular, one mile in diameter, within
the <lepth of 20 fathoms. This ])ank has depths of 10 and 17 fathoms,
over a bottom of mud and sand.

The eastern edge of Alexandra patch lies ijnc mile North of the
north Rachel island. There are depths of 46 and 50 fathoms, mud,
at .') cables eastward and northward of the Alexandra patch. -

Lucy islands ai'<' « group of islands, and high water rocks ; the
largo ishiuds being wooded, and the small bare. These islands, which lie
nearly in the middle of the sound abreast Metlah-Catlah bay, are about
one mile in extent in au east and west direction. The summit of the
eastern and largest island is 200 feet high, and lies N.W. distant 5\ miles
from the north extreme of the north Rachel island, and S.W. distant 3J
miles from the south extreme of Tugwell island. This group is of great
use when making jNletlah-Catlah during thick weather, being compara-
tively free from danger may be approached, and when made, the eastern-
most island of the group kept astern bearing S.W. ^ W., will lead to the
entrance of Metlah-Catlah bay.

A ledge of rocks, which partially uncover, extends from 4 to 9
cables southward of the Lucy group ; the outer rock lying South 9 cables
from the summit of the eastern island of the group. '

EAST COAST.

TSIMPSEAN PENINSULA separates Skeena river from
^^'ork chunuel, being barely half a mile wide abreast the mouth of Skip
river. - -

This peninsula (which takes its name from a tribe of Indians residing
upon it) is nearly 32 miles long, in a general north-west and south-east
direction, witji a greatest breadth of 9 miles.

Tiie head-(iuarter8 of the tribe of Indians inhabiting this peninsula are
at Metlah-Katlah and port Simpson.

D 2

CHATHAM SOUND.

[OIIAP. III.

METLAH-CATLAH.*— Tugwell island lies about 2 milim

Bouth-wpstwnrd of Mctliih-Caflnh villnj^c, niul vcshcIh (Ifeirous of com-
municating with that place usually nnclior off the castorn .side of Tugwoll
island, or off its noitlicin sido in Duncan Imy, according to cironnHtanccs.
Tugwell island is about 1| miles long, in a north and south direction,
with an average breadth of half a mile, and is fringed by dangcntus
rocky ground, especially on its south eastern side. The island is woo<led
(the tops of the trees being about 200 feet high), and is connected at
low water with Mission point upon which Metlah-Catlah village stands.

Dawes rock if* awash at low water, and lies S.S.W. ^ W., 4 cables
from the south extreme of Tugwell island (Dawes point), llctween
Dawes rock and Dawes point, large bouhler rocks uncover at low water,
and extend along the western side of Tugwell island.

Enfield rock has 5 fathoms water upon it ; and lies S.S.W. ^ VV.,
distant one mile from the south extreme of Tugwell island.

Clearing marks. — Carr islet, just shut in with the western extreme
of Devastation islanC bearing N. by E. northerly, will lead eastward of the
foul ground ofl' the south-eastern part ; and the south extreme! of the,
largo Cridge island seen in line witii (Quartermaster rock, and touching
the north extreme of the small Ciidge island bearing E, by N., will lead
southward of the dangers off Tugwell island.

Alford reefs "I'c a dangerous cluster of rocks, about 3 cables in
extent north and south, lying at the mouth of Mcthih-Catlah bay. 'i'he
northern rock, which uncovers 2 feet at low water, lies N.W. by W.,
distant 6 cables from Quartermaster rock.

The south extreme of the large Cridge island, in line with Quarter-
master rock, bearing E. by N., will lead southward of the Alford reefs ;
Carr islet just shut in with western side of Devastation island bearinj;
N. by E. northerly, will lead westward ; the summit of Knight islands
kept midway between Pike and Shrub islands, l)earing N.N.K. \ E., will
also lea<l westward; and the flagstaff on Mission point (Metlah-Catlah
village) in line with the western extreme of Pike island l)earing N. by E.,
will lead eastward of Alford reefs.

Quartermaster rock i« a small black rock, 2 feet above high
water, lying W. by S. distant 4 cables from the south extreme of the large
Cridge island, and 1^ cables from the small Cridge island, on the same
bearing.

♦ See Atliniraltj plan :— Metliih-Catlali bay, No. 3G4; scalf, w = 3 inches.

ciup. III.] METLAU-CATLAU. — DEVASTAllON ISLAND.

A rock, whiclj uncovers one foot at low-wnter, lies South, distant 1 1
cal)les from (^imrtcnnastoi rock.

CridgO islands an; two in iimrilicr, and lie at the Kouth-oaat
CMtnincc oi Mctiaii-Catlali l)ay. The i istcrii and larjjfiu- island is l.'JO lout
hij^h, and licH 2 (•al)le.s IVoin tlic cas-tern shore of the hiiy (l)i<?by islands).
Tiic western island is small, 100 feet high, and lies VV. by S., distant

2 cables from the sonth extreme ol' the larger Cridge island.

Both

islands arc wooded.

Midge rock i« a patch of small extent, which uncovers at low water,
and lies Norfii distant 5 cables from Quartermaster rock ; and about
(J cables north-eastward of .Vlford reefs.

Devastation island lies Imlf a mile eastward of Tugwell island,
and is nearly one third of a mile long, north and south, and 2(X) yards
broad. Tiiis island is wooded, 1 .^0 feet high, with two rocky islets lying
close to its south extreme.

The western shore of Devastation island has no danger off it beyond
the distance of half a cable. From the northe'-n extreme of this island,
however, a shoal, portions of which uncover at low water, extends 5 cables
in a north-easterly direction towards Pike island.

Knight island is small, with stuntevl scrub upon it, barely 10 feet
high, 'ibis island lies E. ^ 8. distant 4 cables from the north extreme
of Devastation island.

Armour rock, with 9 feet water over it, lies S.E. by S. distant one
cable from Knight island.

Pike island, lOO feet high, is about one third of a mile long in a
north and south direction. This island is wooded, and its south extreme
lies N.E. distant 7 cables from Devastation island.

Carr islet is small, about (K) feet high, its summit lying N. by E.
distant o cables from the north extreme of Devastation island. A small
islet lies N.W. 2 cables from Carr islet. Carr islet is connected at low
water with the spit which joins Tugwell island and Observation point.

Shrub islet lit*s N. by E. distant 1^ cables from the north side f Pike
island, and is of small extent.

A shoal, the outer portion of which uncovers at low water, extends
nearly 2 cables from the north side of .Shrub islet ; and is the outer
portion of a baidc of sand, with patches of rock upon it, which connects
Pike island, Shrub islet, Cribbell and Isabel islands at low water.

A ledge of rocks •which uncovers at low water, extends 1^ cables
south-east of Observation point.

CHATHAM SOUND.

[cifAl*. III.

Eplp rock is a dangerous sunken rock, wliic]! lios nearly niidway
between Shrub islet and Oljservation point, distant 2 ciiblec from either.
The navigoblc channel bet\vecn Sliruh islet and OiiscM'vation point, is
contracted by Kelp rock to barely hail" p cable in width at ^w water.

Mission point lies N.E. by E. ^ E. distant tliree-ciuavttra of a mile
from Observation point.

Gribbell island, situated on i,h<' south side of the channel leading
into Venn creek, is about tht ^'ame size as Shrub i.slet. from which it is
distant 5 tiihlcs in a north-easterly direction. A small rocky islet lies
about half a cable oft" the north side of Gribbell island.

Isabel island, lies N.N.E. distant l^ cables from the summit of
Gribbell island, and South l^ cables from Mission point.

A dangerous sunken rock lies half a calle westward of Isabel
island, and reduces the navigable cliLMuel at low water to barely 60 yards
in width.

Venn Creek lies in an li. by S direction from Mission poiui, 1 it
is only siiitaVde for small vessels. There nre .-evcral fi?liing stations
upon the shores of this creek, in which the Indians obiain salmon.

Anchorage ^vill be found in 11 to 12 fVthoms, mud, 3 cables off the
western side of Devastation island ; with the south extreme of ]3evastation
island seen in line wiili the smaller Cridge island, bearing S. E. by S. and
tlie soiuli extreme of Carr islet seen in line with the IhigsfalF on jNIission
I oini, bearing N.E. \ N. Small vess»'ls occasionally )>iO".'oed into Venn creek
and anchor oil" Metlah-Cutlah village, in 10 to 12 fathoms, with the flagstaff
on Mission ptint bearing W. by S. distant 3 to 4 cables.

The channd into this anchorage is barely 60 yards wide at low water,
«vhen the dangers on e'ther side indieatt; themselves, Inn the passage
should only be attempted by short vessels, of I.'glit draught ; and even
when under the puidans.!' of a pilot, it would b(> well !o place boats
either Uj^on Kelp rock, or upon the ou'er edge of the shoal off Shrub
isiot, and also upon the rock wliich lies westwmd of lenbel island.

For all ordinary purposes, howe^er, the anchorage oft' Devastation
island is within easy distance for cxmnnunicating by l)0'..t with Methih-
Catlali mission.

DUNCAN BA''^ lif« nil *lit3 north side of Tugwell ishmd, and
affords inchonige when d^sii'tus of communicating with Metliih-C'allah
durir-; the prevalence of soutli-t-asterly winds,

Tiiis buy at its entrance between the north extreme of Tugwell island
»nd Ryan point is about IJ miles wide, and tak«'s an easterly direction for
about IJ miles, t/'rininating in the snndspit which connects Tugwell island
aad 'Vimps(.an peninsula (Observation point) at low walvr.

■»"i

CHAP, m.] DUNCAN BAT; DIRECTIONS. 55

Dangers. — A shoal with 3 fatlioms (anrl probably loss water) upon it
('xt(>ii(ls n cables northward of TngwoU island. Lod}»cs, which uncover,
and sunken rocks, exten<l nearly 7 cables from the north shore of Duncan
bay.

Hecate rock lifs near the iioad of Duncan bay, 3 cables from the
north shore of the bay. This rock has only 10 feet water upon it.

Directions* — if desirous of anchoring in Duncan bay, pass one mile
north-westward of Tugwell islan<l, and when the south extreme of
Gribbeil island is seen just open of Observation point, braring E. ^ S.,
that mark should be steered for; and a berth taken up on that bearing,
in 8 to 10 fatiionis, mtul, with the north-west extreme of Tugwell island
(Chapman point) bearing S.W. by \V.

Approaching Mctlnh-Catlah from the south-eastward, if the Lawyer
group of islands be kept in line with Groen Top island bearing S.E. by E. ^ E.,
that mark astern will lead directly to the entrance of Metlah-Cat!ah
bay ; and having brought Carr islet in line with the western side of
Devastation ialainl, .a vessel may steer in on that mark, and proceed aa
before dirrcted to the anchorage off the north west side of Devastation island.
Or if bound into Duncan bi>y, should pass one mile westward of Tugwell
island, and proceed as before directed. During a fog or in thick weather,
when ai)proaching Metlah-Callah from the south-eastward, do not shoal
to less than 40 fathoms, and on such occasions the Lucy islands should
be cauMously steered lor and made, taking care to avoid the reefs which
extend from tiie south side of the group. The large or eastern Lucy
island should be l)rought to bear S.W. ^ W, astern, ;ind a N.E. ^ E.
course should lake a vessel to the mouth of JSFetlah-C'atlah bay. The
bank of U) fathoms anrl less water extends nearly one mile to the south-
ward of Tugwell island, and the hand lead, if proceeding slowly, should
indicate its position. During summer iv.ui autumn large quantities of kelp
trrow upon this bank,

Metlah-Catlah Village, is a missionary station, situated upon
Alission point. The houses forming the mission stand upon an elevated
bank, about 100 feet above high water nuirk. Mo^t of the houses are
whitewashed, and the whole settlement from the ofling presents the
appearance of n picturesque English village.

The most conspicuous buildings are the church, schoolhouse, ami
mission house.

Tlie v.^Mna natives, most of whom speak English, iirc taught trades, and
for this pin|iose there are carpenter's and blaeksmith's shops, saw mills,
and a soap factory. The women arc taught sewing and other useful

CHATHAM SOUND.

[OUAP. III.

ill

employments. Patches of ground are cultivated and potatoes of large size
and good quality are grown.

Population. — it is dliricnlt to ascertain correctly the popuhtion of
any Indian settlement ; detachi;d parlies are ao often away hun'.ing and
fishing. It Mas estimated, however, thai the population oi INIctlah-Catlah
numbered over 1000 in I lie year 1870.

Tides. — It is liigh water, full and change, at Mellah-Catlah at Noon ;
springs rise 21 feet.

Observation point, about half a mile westward of the village, is in
latitude o4 20' 10" N., longitude 130" 27' 30" W.

TREE! BLUFF,* the south entrance point of Big bay, lies
N.N.W. A W., distant o miles from Ryan point, the north entrance jioint
of Duncan bay. The shore northward of Kyau point is low niid wooded
to the distance of 3 miles back from the coast. There it rises into hi<>h
land ; the two most conspicuous mountains being Mission mountain and
Deer mound before mentioned. Two streams empty themselves on this
part of the coast, and there are two islets lying close to the shore, resjiec-
tively one and 2 miles northward of Kyan point. The former (Swamp
islet), is covered with low grass, and lies about 5 cables off shore. The
latter islet is bare (S' ppery rock), about 4 ciibles from the shore.

Immediately > •" award of Tree bluff, there is a wooded hill, close to the
shore, 250 feet high.

DANGERS. — lietween Metlah-Catlah and Big bays, dangerous
ledges extend off shore in many places to the distance of 2 miles. These
ledges uncover at low water, and arc steep-to.

HODGSON REEFS nro a dangerous cluster of reefs which lie
northward ol' Duncan bay. The south portion of these reefs, which
uncovers at low water, lies N.W., distant 2 miles from the N. \V, extreme
of Tugwell island, and W.N.W., 1;] miles from Kyan point. From that
position, dangerous sunken rocks extend in a N.N.W. direction for 2 miles.

Abreast Tree bluff the edge of ihe bank, which dries at low water,
lies 1^ miles from the shore.

The south side of Kinnahan isbinds, just showing clear of tlie south
end of Tugwell island bearing S.E. ^ E., leads westward of Hodgson
reefs, and the eastern island of the Lucy group should not be brought to

* Sec Admirn'ity pla:i : — Jlig bay and adjacent anchorages, No. 2426 ; scale, m
3 incbes.

CHAP. III.]

TREE BLTJFF.— BIG BAY.

bear south of S. by E. astern until mount Griflin i^over port Simpson), is
seen in line with the north end of Burntcliit" island N. by E. ^ E., this
mark loads westward of all dangers at the mouth of Hig bay.

BIG BAY* (Lak-Hou) lies immediately northward of Tree bluff.
At its entiance between Tree bluff and Soutii island this l)ay is ?^ miles
wide, and takes an easterly direotion for 3.\ miles. The head of the bay,
into whieh several streams empty themsehes, is fronted by a sand flat,
whieh uncovers, to the distance of one mile from the shore at low
water.

South islEnd, situated at the north-west entrance of Big bay, is
small and wooded, with a sharp summit <>() feet higli.

Haycock island lies East 3 cables from the summit of South
islnnd.

' White Cliff island l'''-^ l'^> h ^-y <''^t'"'*' 9 cables from Ilayeock
island ; it is small, and terminates in high white conspicuous elift's.

ShattOCk point lies K.N.E., distant 3 cables fron White Cliff island,
and is the north-west entrance point of Salmon river '»ight.

Swallow island lies E. ^ S., distant one mile from Whitecliff
island, and one cable from the north shore.

Curlew rock if^ snmll, about 2 feet above high water, and lies South
distant 5 cables from Swallow island.

Salmon river bight i^* the name of the bight at the head of
Big bay. At low water the head of the bight dries as far out as Curlew
rock.

Ripple bank i^^ al>out 2 cables in extent, within the o fathoms lino,
and lies in an lOast and West direction. The shoalest portion of Mie
bank, near tin; «'astern end, has 12 feet water over it, sandy bottom, and
lies S. by W. | W. 1 ,'„ miles from the summit of South island. This
bank usually in.lieafes itsolf by a tide rip, but no kelp was growing upon
it in the autumn of 1868.

A ledge of sunken rocks, with ilepths of O and 12 feet, extends
S. .1 \y. fi cables from (he south side of South island.

A sandbank, about v cable in cxteut, with 3 fathoms water, lies
.S. \ K., 3 cables from Whi'.ecliff island.

Escape reefs '"'c n dangerous cluster of reefs lying at the month of
Big bay. The outer or western reef luis 4 feet water over it, and lies
S. ^ W. distant 1 j^^ miles from the summit of South island. The eastern

• See Admirahj plun :— Big bay, ou sheet No. 2426.

CHATHAM SOUND.

[C7IA5'. in.

reef has 5 feet water over it, and lies E.N.E. distant 5 cables from tlie
western one. There arc depths of 16 and 17 fathoms Ijetween these reefs.
During the season of kelp growth, that weed is found in great quantities
upon Escape reefs, and r.ear the head of Big bay.

Anchorage will be found in J}ig bay, in 11 and 12 fathoms, mud,
with Haycock island in lineAvith the north extreme of South ishuul, liearing
N.W, by VV. I \V., and White Cliff island in line with mount Griffin,
bearing N. by W. ^ W.

Directions. — Approaching Big bay from the southward, mount
GritHn should be kept in line with the north extreme of Burnt clift' island
N. by E. \ E. until Sharp peak on the ridge south-east of mount Griffin
is in line with the soutli end of Swallow island bearing E. by N. ; the
latter mark will lead directly into Big bay ; anchor with Sharp peak
open south of Swallow island, in the position and depth above given.

Burnt cliff island, situated northward of South island, is about
half a mile long in a N.W. ^ N. and S.E. | S. direction, and wooded,
its highest point near its north end being 200 feet high, the north
extreme of this island terminates in high I'cd-brown cliffs, the north-
east extreme is cultivated ; and from lliat point a long l)ank of shingle,
awash at high water, extends 3 cables in a north-easterly direction.
Tiie whole space inshore of South and Burnt cliff islands, uncovers at
low water.

- V j -V

A ledge, which uncovers at low water, extends 3 cables in a north-
easterly direction i'rom the north-west extreme of Burnt cliff island. Tlie
channel between Burnt cliff and One Tree islands is available only for
boats.

One Tree island, situated 4 cables north-west of Bunu cliff island,
is of .-mall extent, with a sharp wooded summit 150 feet high. A low
grassy neck extends 100 yards in a northerly direction from the north
extreme of One Tree island ; at the extremity of this grassy neck a high
conspicuous solitivry tree was standing (1868).

A ledge, which uncovers at low water, surroimds One Tree island ;
its greatest distance offshore being 2\ cables in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction
from the single tree.

Plat top islands are a group lying to the northward of One Tree
island. This group consists of three woo<led islands, lying N.N.E. and
S.S.W. of each other. The middle and lonjM>st island of the group is
connected by a narrow grassy neck with the northern island, and the latter
has a flat s)immit, covered in July with long grass ; also u single stunted

ciuiMii.] BURNT CLIFF ISLAND. — FINLAYSON ISLAND.

tree growing upon it (1868). The sontluM-nniost and smallest Flat top
island lies N. by E., distant 3^ cables from the tree on Ono Tree island.

Ledges, which uncover at low water, and foul ground surround the Flat
top group to the distance of l.J cables. ^

FINLAYSON ISLAND, the largest in this vicinity, is 2^ miles
long in a N.W. ^ N. and S.IO. | S. direction, and ono mile broad, 200 feet
high, and wooded. The south extreme of the island terminates in dirt's ;
but the north extreme (Gordon point) is long and comparatively low, with
ledges which uncover extending 2 cables to the northward ; and on the
north-west side of the island, aljoui half a mile from the north-west
extreme, a large stream empties itself.

Red. Cliff point, situated on the eastern side of Cunningham passage,
N.E. ,'} ealtlos from Fortunt- point, is rendered conspicuous by the high
red-brown cliffs over it ; and the small islet close to. Immediately south-
east of the point there is a bay, with a sandy beach, and stream at its
head. • -

PEARL HARBOUR,* situated eastward of. One Tree island,
is nearly circular in shape, with a diameter of !i cabU's. The eastern
aide of the harbour is formed by a bay, wiiich uncovers nearly throughout
at low water.' On its south-east side, the high bank of shingle which
extends from the north-cast point of Burnt cliff island. en\'ctually shelters
the harbour from south-easterly winds.

Anchorage. — Good anchorage will be found in 9 to JO fathom.9,
m\id, near the mi<l(lle of I'curl harbour, wiili Fortune point seen just open
northwanl of the southernmost island of Flat top group, bearing N.W. ^ \^'.,
and tlie trees on One Tree island, VV.S.VV., distant 3 cabli's.

Otter anchorage, sitnated at the south end of Cunningham pas-
sage, near the eastern shore, northward of Flat top islands, is u.seful if
communicating with the wood-cutting establishment abreast it.

Anchorage in IT) to 17 fathoms, 8an<l, will be found with the centre of the
wood-cutting establishment in line with Leading peak, bearing E. by N. J N.,
and the northernmo.st Flat fop island (Green mound) S. by E., distant 1.^
cables.

Wood-cutting establishment, from which the princii)al sup.
plies for port Simpson are obtained, lies near the middle cf a sandy bay,

* See Adminilty plan : — Pearl harbour, ou bht'ct No. 24'-'0.

CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. III.

the northern point of tho bay terminating in cliffs. The bay dries nearly
thronghont at low water.

From Otter anchorage there is a passage eastward of Flat Top islands
into Pearl harbour, but this is not recommended to a stranger.

SPARROWHAWK ROCK, a dangerous, sunken, ])innacle
rock, with 5 feet water, lies N.W. i N., distant nearly G cables from tlu*
tree on One Tree island. This rock, which was found by WSSl.^.Sparroic-
hmck striking it in 1866, lies nearly in mid-channel, between One Tree and
Finlayson islands, and is steep-to, there being depths of 10 and 12 fatlioins
at the distance of oO feet from it.

A well defined peak of triangular shape, the first to the south-east on
the ridge from mount Griffin (Leading peak), in line with the stimtcj
tree on the northernmost islet of the Flat top group bearing K. by N. \ N..
or that peak seen just open southward of the wood-cutting establishment
abreast Otter anchorage, E. by N. \ N., will lead northward of Sparrow-
hawk rock.

Dodd Rock is the most outlying danger extending from the south
side of Finlayson island, and lies South a little over 2 cables from
Fortune point, with ledges which uncover between it and that jjoint. J)odd
rock only covers at the highest equinoctial tides, and is therefore a useful
mark Avhen entering Cunningham passage, as there is deep Avater a short
distance southward of the rock.

Leading peak seen just open southward of the wood-cut(ing estal)lish-
ment abreast Otter anchorage, bearing H by N. ^ N., will lead southward
of the Dodd rock.

Directions.— Approaching Cunningham passage, lied Cliff point
should be steered for in line with Fortune point, bearing N.E., >intil
Leading ])eHk is seen in line with the stunted tree on the north Flat top
island (Green mound), bearing K. by N. \ N., when the latter mark
should be steered for. When the southern side of Burnt cliff island is
seen open northward of the tree on One Tree islet, bearing S.S.E. A E.,
a vessel will be eastward of Sparrowhawk rock ; and if bound to jioit
Simpson, may haul to the northward into Cunningham passage.

If bound into Pearl harbour, a mid-channel course from the above-
mentioned position shuuhl be shaped between One Tree islet and the
southernmost Flat to[) island. Two conspicuous wooded points on the
eastern shore (IJelletti and Shattock points) should be seen in line
bearing S.E. by E., when entering Pearl harbour.

CUNNINGHAM PASSAGE, situated eastward of Fin-
layson island, lies in a N. by W. \ VV., and S. by E. ^ E. direction.

CHAP. Ill] SPARROWHAWK ROCK. — PORT SIMPSON.

Tho soutliern portion of this channel is bnrely 3J ciiblos wido. IJiit north-
wurd of Snrnh point (the noitli-cast extreme of Finlnyson ishmd) the
pn»sa<;o widens out, attaining between One Tree islet and Gordon ))oint
a width of \\ miles. The depths in mid-channel are from 16 to 36
fathoms, with no danger lieyond a cable from the shore until nearing
Village island.

VillagO island, f'ituated at the south-west entrance of port Simpson,
about a cable from the shore, with which it is connected at half tide,
is about a <|uarter of a mile long, in a VV.N.W. and E.S.P^. direction ; its
south side forms a bay ; and following the trend of tliat bny and round
tho southern extreme of the island, the houses of one of the Tsimpsean
villages will be seen. Village island near its north-west extreme is about
50 feet high, having on it a high ])olc.

One Tree islet i« about lOO yards long east and west, lying close
to the north-west extreme of Village island. Near the western end of
this islet stands a conspicuous decayed tree.

Birnie island lies at the north-west entrance of port Simpson, and is
three-quarters of a mile long in n north and south direction, and a little
over 2 cables broad, with a greatest elevation near tiie middle of (he island
of 330 feet. The shores of this island arc comparatively bold and un-
broken. Knox point, the south extreme of liirnie island, lies North 1.^
miles from Finlayson island ; and N.W. i{ W. l^ miles from One Tree
islet. Ledges which uncover at low water extend one cable from Knox
point.

PORT SIMPSON* is the most simcious harbour on this part of
the coast. At its entrance between (hie Tree islet and liirnie island,
it is nearly 1,^ miles wide; thence it takes an easterly direction for
about 3J miles, contracting gradually as the head is approached; and
terminating in a narrow bight, named Stumaun bay. Stuinaun bay dries
across at low water. At its head arc several streams, where the salmon,
from which it derivea its name, are caught.

Landmarks. — The villages on Village island, the decayed tree
on One Tree i-slet, fort Sinii)son, and mount (Jriffin, with its trian-
gular summit, are all conspicuous objects at the south-west entrance of
port Simpson. On the north shore, two hills of nearly the sanu' height
870 feet (CJeorge and l.i/zie hills), are wooded and easily recognised.
Tlic mouth of a lagoon, on that shore, is also conspicuous. J5en hill, over

♦ Se« Adiniraltv plan: — Port JSiinjisoii, onshfut Ko. 242C- ; scali; m = 3 iiuhes.

CHATHAM SOUND.

[cuAr. in.

tlie south entrance point of Stumauu buy is wooiloil, 130 feet high, and
conspicuous amid tlic adjnccnt low land.

Soundings. — The greatest depth in port Simpson is 29 fathoms ;
but the average dc])tlis near tho anchorage ground aie from 12 to 18
fathoms, mud.

Anchorage. — The usual anchorage lies off the fort, in about 10
fathoms, mud, a good berth is, Avith Parkin islands, seen just o])en north-
ward of Biruic island, bearing N.W. westerly, and the north-west extreme
of Finlayson island (Gordon poijit) in line with the decayed tree on One
Tree islet, W.S.NV.

Hankin reefs tue a dangerous cluster of leefs which partially un-
cover, situated south-west of Village island. Tlic south-west extreme of
these reefs, uncovers 6 feet at low water, and lies S.W. by S., distant a
little over 3 cables from the north-west extreme of Village island. There
is deep water between these reefs and Village island.

The south-east extreme of Finlayson island (Fortune point), just shut
in with the north-oast extreme of that island (Sarah point), bearing
S. by E. ^ E. leads westward, and the mouth of the lagoon on the north
shore of port Simpson, seen open of One Tree islet, N.E., leads northward
of Hank in reefs.

Harbour reefs m'e an extensive plateau of rocks, awash at high
water, which form a natural breakwater at the mouth of port Simpson,
and protect the anchorage from N.W. winds. This sunken plateau is
nearly square in shape, and about one mile in extent, within the depth of
5 fathoms. The south-east portion of these reefs only covers at the
highest tides, and lies W.N.W., 2^ ealjles from One Tree islet.

The month of the lagoon on the north shore of port Simpson, seen just
open westward of One Tree islet, bearing N. E. \ N., leads south-eastward ;
Liz/ie hill seen well open southward of Birnie island, leads north-west-
ward ; Ben hill open north of Bath point (south-cast shore of port Simpson),
E.by S., leads northward; and Parkin islands seen open of the north extreme
of Birnie island, N.W. (westerly) leads north-eastward of Harbour reefs.

Dodd passage lies between One Tree islet and Harbour reefs, and
is 2 cables wide, with depths of G and 8 fathoms in it. This is available
for steam vessels, but local knowledge is necessary.

Anchorage patch, with is feet A\atx3r, sandy bottom, lies in the
western portion of the anchorage ground off fort Simpson, with the
Fort gate bearing S.E. ^ E., and the pole on the N.V. extreme of One
Tree islet, S.W., distant 1^ cables.

Choked passage, situated northward of Birnie island, has several
ledges which uncover, and sunken dangers with deep water between tiiem.

CHAP, m.]

rOHT SIMPSON. — DIRECTIONS.

)

Thispassugo HhoiJd not bo attempted except in boats, and when using it
Keep near the nortli shore.

Directions. — A|>j)r()achin<r port SimpKon from the soutliward, by
Cuniiin^haiii passage the clitl's on the noi'th-west extreme ol' IJurnt-clid"
ishind kept in line with the «oiitliernniost Flat toj) itJand, bcnving 8. by
E. ^ E. nrtteni will lead through until abreast Sarah point. Thenee the
mark for leading westward of Hankin reefs should be brought on awtcrn,
and when the lagoon nioutii on north shore of port Simpson oi)ens wo^;t-
ward of the deeayed tree on One Tree islet, bearing N.E. \ N., a course
should be steered to i)a.sH one cable north-westward of One Tree islet, and
anchor in the position before mentioned.

A vessel not winhing to enter by Dodd passage, should when abreast
ISarah point bring that point in line with the south point of a bay on the
eastern sliore of Cunningham passage, bearing S.E. \ E. astern, which
mark will lead southward of the Harbour reefs, midway between that danger
and Finlayson island.

Inskip passage, the northern and principal entrance into port
Simpson, is a little over 5 cables wide. This should be used b^' a stranger.
The depths in this channel are from 11 to 20 i'athunis.

Entering [)ort Simpson by Inskip passage Lizzie hill on the north shore
bearing N.E., will lead 2 cables south-east of Birnio island. When Bath
point is in line with Ben hill (south shore of the hiiy ) bearing E. by S., an
E. by N. course may bo steered, until Parkin island is seen just open north-
ward of Birnie island, bewaring N.W. (westerly), that mark kept on astern
Avill lead up to the anchorage, in tlu; depth and position before mentioned.

Port Simpson was formed by the Hudson Bay Company in 1831 us a
trading post, on account of the good anchorage found in its vicinity and the
facilities aiforded to sailing vessels. The trading post or fort stands near the
south-west entrance point of the bay, close to the beach. This stockade is of
oblong shape,2o0 feet long and 100 feet deep, with high bastions. The ground
timbers were originally of pine, but are now of eetlar wood, a sleejier of the
latter timber having been found to bo quite sound 20 years after it was laid
down, when all the pine wood sleepers laid at the same time were I'ound to
be rotten. The fort when seen from seaward presents a strong and comi)aet
appearance, and upon inspection its palistules will be found to be scarred by
bullet marks, bearing evi.lence of the many sieges it has sustained from the
natives. A large entry gate faces the beach with a landing jetty of stones
in front of it. Within the fort are live large buildings, forming the dwelU
ings of the Hudson Bay Company's oilicers, the trading stores, and a store
for furs awaiting shipment. The fort stands near the beach, and Hanking
it and extending back some 300 feet, is a paled space of about (J acres in

CHATHAM SOUND.

[chat. Ill

cxtpnt. Tho pastern portion of this space is a well cultivated {j;anlen, iind
excellent potatoes, lettuces, and radishes are grown, the first of the season
of the hitler appearing; in 18(iH, on the 20th June. KaspUerries and straw-
berries grow in ahundaticc, the former being of large si/e mid good tlavuur.

The land at the haek of the fort is about 130 I'eet high, and has been
ele-ared to the distance of about a mile. The surface, however, is covered
with thick moss, saturated with moisture, Avhich renders walking un-
pleasant and dilVieult.

The Hudson Bay Company's trading steam-vessel calls periodically at
port Simpson, bringing supplies and returning with the I'urs.

Tho principal furs obtained are: — Sea otter, land otter, boar, l)ea\er,
lynx, silver fox, red fox, fisher, wolf, fur seal, hair seal, wolverene, racoon*
musk rat, mink, marten, and ermine.

Temperature. — From observations taken in 18(58, during the four
months mentioned, the maximum and minimum ' istrations of tempera-
ture were as follows: — June, ()o\ .W ; July, 74 , 48"; August, 70 , 04*^';
September, 64'', 44 .

INDIAN VILLAGES. — Hefore the Hudson bay post was
built, the villages o!' the Tsimpsean Indians M'ere at i\!etlali-('atlah,
but the tribe being great traders, as well as huntors, travelling long dis-
tances inland, they naturally migrated nearer the trading post. They have
therefore settled along the beach on either side of tho fort, and upon
an island close opposite (Village island). Village island was formerly
only connected with the main at low water, but the Indians have con-
structed a trestle bridge, about (500 feet long and from 1.1 to 20 feet high,
connecting the island and the nniin (Hay point). In 1868 there were IS
houses on the beach eastward of the fort, 49 hotises westward, and (5(5
dwellings upon Village island. Most of tho houses were strong and well
built, about 30 feet long, 20 to 30 feet deep, and from 1.) to 20 Aict in
height, with a wide door facing the beach. Along (he beach canoes of
large size were hauled high up, close to the dwellings. In front of the
houses high poles are erected, with grotesque carvings upon them, jjrinei-
pally representing a human face, with the wings of a large bird attaclml to
it, and fre([nently crowned by the figure of a bird with a long l>iil. The
minor carvings arc generally associated with the family rest, ejich chief
and clan having a crest, the princiiial ones being (he whale, porpoise, eiigle,
raven, wolf, and frog. Red and green are the predominating heraldic colours.

Population. — i-iike tho other coast tribes, the Tsimpseaiis are
decreasing in numbers annually, but in 1868 they nuin' i>red about 2,(KX).

Supplies. — Salmon, berries, shell fish, houlikan oil, and dried seawee«l
form the ])rincipal diet of these Indians. Animal food (Venison) is eaten
when it can be obtained. But the winter food consists of drieil salmon and

CIUP. MI.]

POUT SIMPSON. — INDIAN VILLAGES.

houlikan oil. Tho siilinon are caught in immense quantities during the autunm
and Kmoked over wood fires in huts. Houlikan altounds in Nass river in
the spring, tiie banks at low water being covered with dead fish. From
this iish, wliich is hirger and rounder than a sprat, a nutritious oil is
extracted, and is the principal support of life to this people. The various
tribes whoso rivers th*; houlican do not visit, buy the oil in exchange for
furs. The seaweed is taken in great quantities on tho off-lying rocks
during the low autumnal tides. It is dried and compressed into cakes and
used as winter food. A great luxury with them is rice and molasses.

Wood, water, j)otatoes and crabs, can bo obtained in port Simpson.

Customs. — The Tsimpseans wore once a powerful and warlike tribe,
nearly always at war with either the Ilydahs (Queen Charlotte islands) or
the Nass Indians (Portland inlet), and much dreaded by tho Bella Bella and
southern tribes. They are still an influential race and object to any other
tribe trading directly with the Hudson bay company at fort Simpson.
Before granting; permission for cuch, thoy expect and obtain presents.

On such occasions feasts aro held. A spirit called whiskey is drunk,
and under its influence they commit many crimes. Without any apparent
cause, old grievance.s are recalled, and as they ' ivariably have their fire-
arms beside them, they shoot one another.*

Slavery i?* reported to be still (18f>8) in existence among them. In the
event of a feast terminating in murder, the aggrieved tribe sully forth in
their canoes, and meeting any of the tribe of the murderer, carry the
women away, first killing the men.

Chiefs. — The head of the Tsimpsean tribe in 1868 was a woman.

Sick people are kindly treated, and receive much attention from
their fiiends. Upon the appearance of an epidemic, however, such as
small-pox, this rule does not apply. So great is their dread of this disease,
that those suffering from it are at once taken outside the village, a fire is
lighted, some food is placed beside the sufferer, and he is then left to
his fate.

The women mourn for the dead many days, they sit on the beach and
utter a long, low, dismal wail. The; dead are usually burnt. Mr. Duncan
says, " the corpse is conveyed awny in a canoe to a distant part of the beach
and there burned to ashes. M urners accompany it and tlioy make the
air to ring with their i)ierciug cries all the time the body s consuming.
The ashes are then collected and placed in a little house appointed to
receive them. A slave, after death, is at once placed in a canoe, and
thrown into the harbour, without any sorrow being expressed."

• It is ailvisable for white nieu, if strangers, uot to visit the villages on those
occasions.

Q 901"). •

ClI.VTlI.m SOUND.

[CIIA!'. III.

Religion. — This branch of the Tsini|i>niins arc not liko that nt
Metliih-Ciithih, (,Mu istians. Some native Ciiristians, liowovcr, teach in n
mi.«Mion house. But the groat bulk of thi' popuhition adhere to tlieir ohl
customs and ceremonies.

Language. — Tiie Tsimpsean hiu<rHngt( is soft and inel )dious ; it Is
spoken as I'ar soutli as Wrigiit sound. Hastwanl of tluil sound the Uclla
Bella dialect is spoken ; the Kit-i-mat (ribc (at the head of Dougla.s
channel) spoakiuff a nii.\ture of both dialects.

The language of trading, and for cominunieation generally between tribes
speaking different dialects, is called Chinook. This jargon consists of English,
French, and Indian words stiiing together, with no graiuniatical basis.
It is readily ac<iuired, and almost universally spoken by the coast tribes
from the Colombia river to Alaska.

Repairs. — The great rise and fall of tide at port Simpson permits n
vessel to be beached. A good site will be found for this purpose just westward
nf the fort. The bottom consists of hard sand, with a covering of weeds.
The surveying vessel " licai'Cr " was beached in this position in 1868, and
did not sink into the ground beyond one inch.*

Climate. — The climate at port Simpson is uncertain, no two seasons
being precisely the same, or appearing to follow any general law.

During one summer line weather may be experienced for six weeks at
a time, and on such occasions a serene atmosphere, with magnificent
sunsets, will be experienced. The following summer may prove one
of almost constant rain, with a succession of gales from the south-eastward.
Along the shores of Chatham sound the rainfall is not so great as within
the inlets. The temperature during July, and August 1869 varied from 57°
to64''-, during June, July, and August 1868 it varied from 48° to 73°.
The mean temperature of the sea was 4° lower than the mean temperature
of the atmosphere at port Simpson during these periods, but at Metlah-
Catlah and Nass bay it was 8° lower than the atmosphere, probably
due to the influence of the cold water from the rivers which flow into
those bays.

Birds. — During the month of May humming birds in great numbers
arrive, and remain until the end of August. They are snared by the Indian
boys, and brought alongside for sale, suspended to sticks.

* II. M.S. F(>a//o was rupaircd on the beach opposite the fort in 1(*53. The vessel
was lightened to 11 fi. G in. forward, and 12 ft. 6 in. aft, the stores with the exception
of the guns and cables being lodged in the fort. On the 22nd June, during the night
tide, the ve^^el wiis warped into her position, and remained there until the 8th July
during which time, the giipe and fore part of main keel (26 feet long) was repaired, and
65 sheets of copper replaced on various parts between the bilge and keel. The night
tides were about 3 feet higher than the day. .

ciur. III.]

TOUT SIMPSON. — WORK CHANNEL.

At tlic begiriniiiff (if O(!t()bor, Iftrfjfo (locks of wild guoso, and (liicki*, are
soon (lying southward ; uml the winter season is then nwsunuMl to Imvf
coiniiiiMicod.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at [xirt Simpson at Ih. .30m. ;
springs rise 17 to 22 feet ; neaps II to 17 feet.

Observation spot 's on the north-west extreme of Village island;
in latitude .34' .'W r,\" N., h.ngitude IIJO" 2(i' .'3()" W., depending on .Shell
island, Beaver harhour, being in 127° 25' 7" W.

Deviation. — For swiuging to ascertain the ilcviatiou of the compass
in port Simpson, Table hill on Dundas island i- 12 miles distant, and
conspicuous. 'J'he bearing of the nob at the north end of Table iiill, from
the anchorage in port .Simpson is N. 76° tX)' \V. (true).

Parkin islands consist of two islands lying close together, about
a cable in extent in a N.W. and .S.K. direction. These islands, tliough
small, are 2.')() feet high, wooded and conspicuous. The south extreme
of Parkin islands lies N.W. ;^ N. distant about 1^ miles from the north
extreme of IJirnie island, and G cables from the nearest shore ( IMack point).

Maskelyne point, the south-west entrance point of Portland inlet,
and the north-west entrance point of Work channel, lies S.E. \ S., distant
3 miles from Wales point. Vancouver obtainetl the depth of 8 fathoms,
soft bottom, half a mile from point Maskelyne. Deep water was found
witiiin a cable of that point (1868).

Work channel, the entrance of which lies close northward of point
Maskelyne, takes a south-easterly direction. This channel has not been
examined in deUiil since the visit of Vancouver. At its entrance it is
barely 4 cables wide, which width it preserves for about 7 miles, when it
■widens to 1^ miles, and afterwards to 2 miles. Near its termination,
Work channel divides into two arms, one taking a north-easterly direction,
the other continuing to the south-east. Its shores are stated by Van-
couver to tx " straight and compaet."

WEST COAST.

PreSCOtt and Stephen islands lie in the south-western part
of Chatham sound, and are separated by a narrow passage available only
for boats. These islands together are about 12 miles long in a W. by N.
and E. by li. direction, of triangular shape, the base of the triangle being
4 miles long, and forming the north-v, !?8t side of Stephen island.

PrescoH island has an elevation o 820 feet. Stephen island attains
an elevation of 1,340 feet near its east end j its southern shores arc com-
paratively low, with some white cliifs near the centre.

■ t

EDYE PASSAGE.

[uiur. III.

TreO'llOb groups »«« a labyrinth of islands, i»k-ts, and rockw uwasli
at low water, which extend G miles in a north-westerly direclion from
the N.W. side of Steplnni ihlund. The larger i-slets are wooded, and the
smaller bare. VaiiCouvor, v>ho nearly met with dinftster among them,
describes them as " in intricate inhospitable labyrinth."

EDYE PASSAGE * lies on the south side of rros«>ott and Stephen
islands, and is the channel usually taken when comnit 'licating betweea
Cliatham. sound and Hecate strait. By u.-sing it, ves;M'ls avoid the strong and
irregular tides met with in Brown passage. It ia com])aiiitively free from
danger, and at its northeni end possesses an excellent anchorage (Refuge
bay), in which a vessel may await a favoumble oi)portunity for i)rocecding.

GoSChen islSind.. — Approaching Ildye pansngo fron< the southward,
the oval-shaped hill near the western extreme of Goscihen island is con-
spicuous. And at 2 ,niles northward of that hill lies another, w'th a flat
E^itnmit, 170 feet high. At 3 miles southwan.' of the latter, the western
shore of Goschen island teiniinates in high white clififs.

The south-western side of Goschen islan«l has several rocks awash, and
sunken rocks extending off it in a westerly direclion to the distance of
one mile.

BRSS rock, ^0 feet high, situated close to tiie shore of Giischeu island
linder Oval hill, is small, and bare.

A rocky lodge, with depths of 4 to 8 fathoms upon it, extends
westward nearly 4 miles, from the south-west side of Goschen island.

Cl6a>rillg ni8<rk. — The conspicuous white cliff's on the south side of
St.i»,bf!rs island should not be brought to bear we^twanl of >iorth when
a )proaching the western shore of Goschen island.

SGdil rocks »re " cluster of bare rocks of sniidl extent, 10 feet above
hiirh water. TIio centre of this clu'-lcr lies W.N.W., distant G miles from
the summit of Oval hill, and S.S.W. \ W., distant 4 niili's from cape
Ibbetson (south-west entrance point of Edye j)assage).

There are depths of 12 to 31 fathoms at 2 cnbles from the Seal rocks.

W arrior rocks consist of two l>are rocks, 30 feet above high water,
and lie E. by S., and VV. by N., distant 8 cables from ench otl-.er. The
eastern rock lies N.VV. ^ W., distant 3'^ miles from the centre of the Seal
rock cluster.

Deep patch, situated nt the western ont'-anco of lOdye parsa^^e, is
stated to have 19 fathoms ujwn it. There is, however, probably less
water o'.i this patch, as kelp was observed growing upon it in August.

* Sf Admiralty plau :— Browu and Edye passages, No. 3453 ; sculu, m >» 1 iuch.

CHAP. III.]

GOSCIIEN ISLAND. — REFUGE BAY.

The patch is of small extent, and lies N.N.E., distant one mile from
capo Ibbetson, and S.W. by W., distant 2\ inilea from the south extreme
of Arlhiir island.

Cloa<rillg mark. — Tl-.c south cxtromo of Arthur island (View point)
scon in liiu; with the south cast extreme of tiiat island bearing E. by N, J N.,
will lead nortliward of Deep patch.

TruSCOtt patch, witli 16 feet water upon it, lies E.N.E. distant
1 J miles from cjipo Ibbetson, i'lsl 6 cables from the nearest shore of Henry
island.

Foul ground extends off tho south-eastern side of Arthur island to
the distance of 3 cables.

Soundings. — The general depths in Edye passage vary from 23
fathoms iv, no bottom at 40 fathoms.

Tides. — The floo«l approaches from the westward, and both streams,
set fairly through Edye i)a,s9age, with an avorage rate of 2 knots an hour.

Directions. — Approaching Edyo i)nssage from the south-westward,
the taHtera portion of the high white cliffs on the south side of Stephen
island should not be brought to bear westward of North until Oval
hill, OH Goschen island is seen in liin- with Seal locks bearing
S.E. by K. } E. Thence a N.E. ^ N. course may be steered for the mouth of
Edye passage, taking care not to shut in Oval hill with cape Ibbetson
until the south and south-east points of Arthur island are seen in line.
The latter mark may then be steered for, bearing E. by >». | N., until Seal
rocks are seen in line with cape Ibbetson bearing S.S.W., when u more
easterly course may l>e steered to pass half a mile ^ out li ward of tho
south extreme of Arthur island. When the entrance poiirs of Refuge bay
are seen in line, that mark may be stored for, bearing N.E. by N., taking
care to avoid the small patch wlii< uncovers at low water 3 cables
off the so\ith point of Useless bay. i'ass 3 to 3 cables westward of the
south entrance point of Refuge bay (Pearce point), and if not desirous
of anchoring in that bay, a N.W. by N. course should l)e steered towards
liiiehel islands; i)as?ing mi;!way between hat group and Gull rucks,
thence steer as re(|uisite for the destination.

REFUGE BAY,* situated iit the Jiorth-wcst extreme of Torcher
island, at tlie iioilli entrance of Edye passage, is an excellent stojipiug-
l»lace during south-easterly winds, or if de>in)u> of proceeding to sea
from Ciiathani sound by liic Edye passiige, tlie state oC the weather
ill Hecate strait cun be ascertained. This l):iv is 7 <'al)les wide between

♦ See AdniiriiUy pliui : — Ri'fii;,'e hny ov sheet No. 245l« ; scnlf, in » 4 iuches.

BROWN PASSAGE.

[CIIAI*. UI.

its entrance points, and takes a south-easterly direction for about a mile,
terminatinf; in a Hanu-flat wliicli extends nearly 5 <-abIes from itw Jiuud.

The di'pdis in (he middle of flic li.-iy are from 14 to 23 fiifhoms, sand,
shoaling gradually towards eilluT shore.

Anchorage will be found in 12 to II fathoms, sand and mud, near
the middle of tiio bay, about 2 eiibles from ilic north and snuth shores,
with the north entrance point ('J'able point) bearing N.N.W., and Pearcc
point beariiig W. by S. ^ S.

Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, in Refuge bay at Ih. 30ni. ;
springs risv 17 to 22 ; neaps 14 to 17 feet.

BROWN PASSAGE Ixtween Tree nnbi«lnnds and South Dundas
islands, is iibout o miles long in an K. by N. and W. liy S. direction, and 5
miles wide.

Nearly in mid-channel, however, lies a duster of rocks, awash at high
water, which divides Brown passage into two cliannels.

Butterworth rocks are a dangerous cluster of rocks, the southern-
most is 10 I'l ( t above high water, with several patches which uncover at
low water extending from it in a n(»rth-westerly direction to the distance
of three-(puirters ol' a mile This rcwk lies S.S.W. \ \V., distant 3.^ miles
from the south-western island of the 'J'rec nob group (Hare island) with
that island in line with some wooded islands forming the norlli-west
cluster of Tree nob group (Oslioine islniids).

There is deep water between Ibitterworlh rocks and Tree nob islands.

StenllOUSe shoal, " dangerous patch with 7 feet water upon it, is
reported to be 1] miles in extent. This shoal lies at the western entrance
of iirown pas>age, S.W. '^ W., distant G^ miles from the south extreme
of South Dundas ishind (Cape islet), W. by S., .1^ miles from the llanmcr
rocks, and VV. by M., 5 miles from the outer Osborne island.

North breaker, over which the sea usually breaks, is the outer
known danger extentliiig north-west from tin Tree nob group, and lies
W.N.W. dif'tani one mile from llic outci- Osborne island.

Haniner rock '^ » dangerous rock, awash at high water, with
depths of 12 and .'i2 fathoms c'ose to j there are --evcral patches which un-
cover, extending from Ilannier rock in a W.N.W. direction to the distance
of three-(puirters of a mile. This rock lies nearly in mid-channel, N. by K.
distant 2^? miles from the outer Osl»orne ixland, and S. by W. distant 2^
miles from (Jape islet.

CHAP. HI.] BUTTERWORTII BOCKS. — QLAWDZEET ANCIIORAGi:. 71

Simpson rock lies on the north side of Brown pnssage S. by W.
distmit thr(H'-(iuarters of u mile from Ciipc! islet ; thih rock is (> feet above
hiyh water, witli rocks awash extending half a mile westward, and a th'pth
of 17 fathoms at 4 cables southward of it ; there isu patch which uncovers
3 feet at low water, at 3 cables S.E. of Simpson rock.

Beaver rock. — This danger has 12 feet water upon it, and lies 8. S.E.
distant l\ niik-s from the S.E. extreme of South Duudas island (Deans
point). .Several patches of rock lie between Beaver rock and the shore of
Soutii Dundas island. There are doi)ths of 13 and 17 fathoms at 4 cables
southward of Beaver rock.

SoUUdingS. — The water in Brown pnssage is deep, being over 39
fathoms. Dejilhs of 20 fathoms and under extend from one mile to I^
miles off the south shore of Duinlas island.

Tides. — In Brown passage the tides set fairly through at an average
rate of 2 knots an hour.

'I'ln^ flood btream approaches from the westward, and off the we^-tern
entnuicv of this passage the tides are strong and complicated.

DireCtioilS. Brown passage i.s not rccomniended to a stranger, but
should eircunisianees coni{)el him lo make use of it, tlie eastern peak of the
four-peak range on Soutii Dunda.s islands should be steered for, bearing
K.E. by N., until the eiLstcrn and highest Lucy island bears E.N.E., which
will lead through Brown passage south of Ilanmer rock, or bearing E. i| N.
will lead through, northward of this rock.

QLAWDZEET ANCHORAGE* lies on the north-west side of
Stephens island, and it was into this bay Vancouver was conducted by the
olHcerofthe Ihittcrwortk from his dangerous position amidst the Tree
uob gioup.

(^iawd/eet is exposed to the N.W., is three-tiuarters of a mile vviile at its...
entrance, and oiu* mile deep in u southerly direetiun.

Entrance roef, awa,> h at high water, lies 2 cables N.W. of the
easliin entriuu'i' point of t^biwiizcrt bay.

Directions. — The montli ol (^lawdzeet bay will be made if tlie
notih exfr«"ine of Tugwell island is kept inline astern with the east»\,i
inland of (he Lucy jfroup, bf wring N.N.K. \ E.

Keep mid rfiBiinel when enterinjr, and anchor 3 cables within the bay
n 1 \}, eables off the south shore, in 12 to 11 fathoms, nmd bottom, with

• dtt Adtttlralty plan: -Qlawlz*'** afi/'horafc, on nfeeot No, St.sn ; fcif.y\ w-=4'0 inches.

CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. iir.

the eastern entrnncc point of the bay bearing N.E. ^ N., distrtiit 4- cnblcs,
and the western entrance point bearing W. by N., distant 6 cables.

Tides. — It is higli water, full and change, in Qlawdzeet anchorage at
1 h. 30 m. ; springs rise 17 to 22, neaps 14 to 17 feet.

Bay islands, on the nouth side of South Dundas island, are r'jported to
afford anchorage off their north-west t,idc. The " Buttencorth" however,
" on coming out struck upon a ;ock which seemed to be a small pinnacle
by itself as no soundings were gained near it." (Vancouver, Vol. II.,
p. 325.)

The examination of this locality has shown the existence of many
sunken rocks, the anchorage under Bay islands should therefore not be
attempted.

DUNDAS ISLANDS (»n the western side of Chatham sound,
were so named by Vancouver. These islands arc three in number, the
northernmost being tlu; largest and highest. A number of snuillor islands
(Moffat islands) lie; close to the eastern shores of South and Middle
Dundas islands. The Vt'estern shores of the group have not been thoroughly
examined, but they are much broken into bays and inlets, with several
small off lying islets.

South Dundas island is about 3 miles long, in a N.W. and S.E.

direction, end o miles broad. The shores are comparatively low, wooiled,
and broken into bays on the south and western sitles. Near the middle
of this island a mountain range rises to the height of !,4(X) feet, with four
coi spicuous peaks which lit- in u N.E. and S.W. direction. The eastern
and highest peak of this range is 1,400 feet high, the western and lowest
one 1,100 feet high.

Middle Dundas island lies about 2 miles to the north-wcstw.vnl
of South Dundas island, the passage between is obstrueled !>y numerous
low wooded ish'ls, loeks. ainl -nnken diitigers. This island is nearly 5 miles
long in » N.W. and S.E. direction, with a greatest breadtii of o miles. In
general it is low and wooded, with numerous creeks 'tud ba} ^ on its shores.
Near the southern end of the island the land suddenly rises in an uvul-
shapcd hill (Coast motind) 7^0 feel high, which is a useful land mark.

Connel islands is the name of a group of small wooded
islands which lie off the western side of Aliddle Dundas island. The
outer or south-western island of the gnmp lies off the en( ranee of the
passage bi'twecn South and Middle Dundas islands, about 2 niiL's from
the western idiores of the latter, and 7 miles N.W. from Oslxirne i.^^huxls.

r''" ■

ciiAi'. HI.] DUNDAS ISLANDS.— MOFFATT ISLANDS.

North DundaS island «s about 12 miles long, in a north and
south direction, and about 7 miles broad near its north end. This island
the highest and largest of the group, culminates in u mountain with a
thumb-shaped summit, 2,500 feet high, about 4 miles from thf( south end
of the island. Near the north extreme of the island there is a hill
700 feet high, with a fl.it top, and a nob near its north end (Table hill), a
most conspicuous and useful mark. The eastern shore of North
Dundas island is but little bn)k('n ; bold, with a range of coast hills about
300 feet high, i-ising immediately above it. Un the northern side, nearly
midway between Whitley point and White islets there is a deep bay,
useless as an anchorage. At the mouth of this bay lies a group of small
wooded isle'.B (Gnarled inlands). Off the north-west extreme of the island,
close to the shore, are two conspicuous rocks (White rocks).

The western shore of North Dundas island has not been examined
in detail. Several islaui's were, however, seen lying off that shore to the
distance of 2 miles.

ZAYAS ISLAND is the largest of the islands which lie off the
western shore of North Dundas island. The extent of this island has
not been ascertained, but it appeared to be about 4 miles long, in a north
and south direction, and about two miles broa<l. The island is wooded,
about. 250 feet high. A ledge of rocks, which uncover at low water,
was observed to extend nearly a mile from the north-west extreme of Zayas
island. From the west side of the island, rocks are said to exti'nd 3 railci.

CHANNEL ISLANDS «»■« a group of wooded islands, about
100 feel high, extending across the eh.inncl between Middle and North
Dundas islands. This group renders that chaimel useless for any but the
smallest class of sailing vessel. The passage, however, is frecpieutly used
by the llydah Indians, in their large canoes, when proceeding from Queen
Charlotte island to port Simpson.

Moffatt islands consist of six principal wooded i>Iands ah I sev.iul
lesser oms, flu liighest being about 2.j() firf in height. This gro j>, wlii(.h
lies close to the east<'rn shore of tiie Dundas inlands, extends ovev a distiinee
of 6 miles in a N.^\ . and S.K. direction. When abreast, these islands
show out well, being clothed with a peculiar deep green pine tree.

DUCIE rSLAND is a small wooded islet, 35(.> feel high, lying
one mile fs.W. »l tlie ^lolliit group. Two eonspicuous white rocks, 30
liet high, lie 3 cal'les westward of Ducie island.

Whitesand islet is II sin.ill mumIv IsIet. aboMt 1(* fut nbove high
water, 1} 1 sg N.K. by K., distniit <j cable- from Ducie island. A,.ledge of

CHATHAM SOUND.

[chap. III.

rocks, which xincovor, extends N.W. nn.l S.E. of Whitesand islet, to the
(li-stance of 4 cables.

Hammond rock, of i^imill extent, with 3 fathoms water over it,
lies E.N.E., distant 9 cables from the soutli-castorn extreme of the S.K.
Motfat island, and E. J N., distant 4} miles from Coast mound. This
rock has 34 fatlioms close northward of it.

Coghlan rock, with 3 feet water, and G and 7 fathoms close around,
lies 2 miles N.W. of Hammond rock, and y.E. by E., distant 3^ miles
from the summit of Coast mound. There are depths of 43 ana 46 fathoms,
mud Ijottom, at one mile northward of this rock.

Brodie rock lies N.W. <listant b^ miles from Chilian rock. This
danjjorous pinnach; rock lins only ,S feet wafer over it at low water, with
depths of 2() and 33 fathoms at a distanoL' of 100 feet.

The Hachel group of islands, kept open northward of the Luey proup,
bearing S.E. i .S. will lead northward of the above-mentioned dangers ;
!)ut during a fog, or in thick ^\^'ather, the western shore of Chatham
sound must not be approached under the depth of 40 fathoms.

NOKTIIERN PORTION.

Pointers rocks, i""'' " dangerous cluster of bare rocks, 3 feet above
high water, about 2 cal)les in extent in a north and south direction. The
southernmost and highest rock lies N.N.W., distant 3 miles from the north
extreme of Finlayson island; and W.S.W. distant 2| milt-s from the north
extreme of liirnie island. There are dej)ths of 10 fathoms, no l)ottom, at
half a cal)le westwanl ; and 12 fatiioius, rocky bottom, at a cable eastward
of I'oiiiters rocks.

Connis rocks eouslst of one large and several snuiU rocks, nearly
in the middle tji Cliatlium sound, abreast port Simpson. The southern-
most and hlgb'--t rock, 1.5 feet above high water, is bare, and from it
rocks extend 2 cables m a northerly direction. The summit of this rock
lies W.S.W. distant o^ miles from the north extreme of Finlayson island ;
and S.W. by S. <li»iaut 3^ uiiles Irom Pointers rocks.

There are depths of til fathoms, 91 fathoms, and 92 fathoms, mud
bottom, at the distance of one mile, S.E., S.W., and N.E. of these rocks
respectively,

Vaueouver remarks: — '"These in the daytime and clear weather are
" easily avoided, as there are always some of them aljove the surface of
" the waier ; but in dai-k nights, or foggy weather, they must render the
" navigation of the sound very rtiuigeroun."

ciup. m] HAMMOND ROCK. — GNARLED ISLANDS. 75

Green islet, ■situated on the wosUtu bhorc of Clmttmin sound, n1)out
1^ miles from North Dundas ishmd, is covered with long grass during
tho sunnncr. Jt is siniill, 40 feet above high water, and hus a .•'mall liare
rock lying close northward, and another close southward.

The iniildle and largctit islet lies S.W. hy \V. dislunt 3 miles from the
Conuis rocks.

Grey islet •«* i small bare rock, of a grayish colour, 30 feet al)0ve
high water, and lies Norrii, 9 cables from Green islet.

A sunken rock, ^vith a feet water upon it, lies W.N.W. distant
one mile fiom Grey islet.

There are depths of 19 and 27 fathoms at a cable from this rock.

A sunken rock, with 4 I'eet water upon it, lies South distant
3 cables from (irey islet.

MAIN PASSAGE, situateil between Pointers and Connis rocks,
is 3^ miles wiiie, with depths of 128 fathoms, at one milt> south-west of
Pointers, .md Ji2 fathoms, at one njile north-east of Connis rocks.

Hoth Connis and Pointers roeks may be apj)roaehed to the distance of
o cablis.

ORIPLAMME PAStoAGE passes westward of Connis rocks,
l)etw(<ii tliai cinster and (.ireen and Grey islets. It is .'5 miles wide,
with depths of 2.'{ fatlioms at 2 enb!<-s eastward of Green islet ; and 65
and 70 fathoms, mud bottom, n* 7 cables southward of Connis rocks.

'J'lie ])assage Ix'twecn Dniidns island and the (Jreeii and (irey islets, is
nearly Ih milts widr. The tides in this passage arc strong: and the
eli.MiMul is not recommeiideil to a stranger.

GNARLED ISLANDS ii'f " group of wooded islands, about one
mile in extent in an east and west direction, lying off the north-west side of
the North Dnndns island. The grouj) is from l.'iO to 2t')0 feet in height ;
and the eastern islet lies W. \ N, distant 2;^ miles from the N.K. extreme
of the Dundas group.

The channel between Dundas and Gnarled islands is obstructed by
ledger wliieh uncover, and sunken rocks.

White rocks "i'« tw" hare rocks, about 30 feet higii, lying
half a mile from the north-west extreme of North Dundas island.

UIXON KNTi{ANCK.

DIXON ENTIIANCE is Ib^' tinni(> given to the eliannel passing
norlhwaid ol Dundas islands, and between Prince of Wales and (^ueen Char-
lotte islands. Sevi'ral sunken d/illgers, of doubtlul position, are reported to

DIXON ENTKANCE.

[chap. III.

lie 111 the western pnrt of this passage, on or near a line joining the north
end of the Dnndas group and the south end of the Prince of Wales group.
liui that portion of Dixon entrance which passes I'orthward of Dundas
islands is comparatively free from danger.

CAFIi FOX lip8 on the north shore of Dixon entrance, and was so
named by Vancouver.

This cape is distant about 8 miles from the Gnarled island group, and
terminates in remarkable high, white cliffs; witli a conspicuous saddle-
shaped mountain 1,800 feet high, immediately over it.

LORD ISLANDS arc a group of about a mile in extent, lying
3 miles south-east of capi* Fox. Tiiis group is wooded, about 250 feet
high, and the south-west island "s distant 5 miles from the outer or north-
western island of the Gnarled ishuid group.

A ledge which uncovers 3 feet at low water, lies S.W. by S. distant
8 cables from the south-west island of the Lord group.

SoiindingS. — At 8 cables northward of the Gnarled island group,
there is a depth of 155 fathoms, rocky bottom ; and at 8 cables southward
of the Lord island group, a depth of 73 fathoms, gravel bottom, was
obtained. The depths in mid-channel are 103 and 1 10 fathoms, giavel
bottom ; deeiwning to 170 and 214 fathoms as Chatham sound is
approached.

NEkat inlet is an uuexau'.ined arm of the sea whicli li»s between
cape Fox and Tongas island.

TONvjtAS ISLAND lies about 3 miles eastward of cape Fox, and
alx'ut 16 miles north west of port Simpson. This island was chosen in
1867 as a military |x>st by the Uuiteil States, after purchasing Alaska.
Fori Tongas is small, and was gjtrrisoned by one company (1868). 'J'ho
settlement is dreary. The almost constant rain and soft soil produces mud
of a most tenacious nature.

AncIlOrage. — Tb^* appioaehcs to Tongas settlement arc intricate
and rciiiiirc local knowledge; the anchorage abreast the fort is bad, with
deep water ami limited accommodation even for a vcBsel of (HlHltfHlle l<!Pgth.
ll.M.S. Sparrowhawk vxiiGvii need groat tlillleulty 111 till lllllg illileast fort
Tongas.

The approach fioui tlie soulli-iMist, is about 3 miles lulig, ullil piHslll^
between numerous islets, is in places lianly a ruble witjt'. 'jjie tlrilHl^
it this passage are said to be I'loui o to IH i'athomst

The principal approach to Tongas is IVoni the westwiud, and is abniil
Scabies wide. There are said to be depths n! 5 and H riitlinuis within
this passage.

cnxr. m.]

CAPE FOX. — WALES ISLAND.

The following extract is from a report to the U.S. Govornment upon
Tongas: — "The harbour, in and about it, nocils a careful survey, being
" in rather a bad situation, surrounded by rocks, reefs, and slioals, on
" the outside and inside."

Tlochopcity harbour (or Clement's city), is one of the south-
eastern Mi)proaches to 'I'ongas from Chutham sound. This passage ia
intricate and constrictetl.

Boston islands lie otr Wales ishmd, at the south-eastern approach
to Tongius.

Tiiis group is about one mile in extent, in an east aiil west direction.
The larger islands are wooded, about loO feet high, the smaller ones arc
bare, 50 fe(!t high. The western island is 450 feet high, round, wooded,
and conspicuous.

A ledge, which uncovers at low water, lies K. by S. distant one mile
from the easternmost of the IJoston islands, and one mile from the nearest
shore of Wales island.

WALES ISLAND, situated on tlie north-west side of the entrance to

l\>rtland inlcl, is about 7 miles long in an east and west direction, its north-
eastern side being about 1 miles long. The north-eastern shore is
bold, with some conspicuous cliffs of red-brown colour, nearly midway
between the north and south extremes of the island. A small islet lies
close to the shore at the north extreme. On the south side, about one
mile westward of Wales point, the south-east extreme of Wales island, a
deep bay faces south-eastward, and within it an; some patches which
uncover and rocks awash. A wooded islet, about ,^» cables long, in a
N.W. and S.K. direction, lies at the mouth of this bay S.W. .J W., distant
H miles from Wales point. A smaller islet lies one mile south-westwai-d
of the larger one.

Kntry peak lies about half a mile north-west of Wales point ; this
mountain is 1,400 feet high, of triangular shape, with a sharp conspicuous
summit. A mountain, with a flat summit, 1,100 feet high, lies near the
middle of Wales ishtnd.

Cod bank, ^vith depths of 33 and 47 fathoms, mud a.sd shells, lies
1»etwe(;n Pointers rocks and Parkin island, extending from the latter,
within the .'50 fathom line, to the distance of l.\ miles.

There is a depth of 109 fathoms, mud bottom, at 5 cables south, and 99
(athonis, roek, at 5 cables north of Cod '..auk.

foil flsli of large size are ^.tught upon this bank.

TIDES. — The tides in Dixon entrance and Brown passage, especially
in the western parts of those channels, arc variable and complicated. The

CHATHAM sorxD.

[< IIAl', III,

Hood >tivnm approat'liiiig rroin the r^oiilhward up Ilccale .»trait is met hy
the stream passing w«'st\vartl ami nortliwanl of Queen C'iiarlntte islands,
nt about i.') miles eastward of liuse point, or ali(»ut midway lul ween tlio
north-east extreme ol' t^iu-eii t'harlotto islands and the Tree N<il> f,n<)up.
Nt)rtli\viird of that position this meetiii;; of the streams produ<'('s tidal
irregularitie.', and at spring titles, or during liu<I weathi r, llif turmoil
caused by the meeting of the streams is so great as to convey an appear-
ance of Itroken water to that portion of the ocean wiiieh lies between
Queen Cliarlottc islands and IJrown passage and Dixon entrance.

In Cliathani sound the tides set fairlv tliron''h.

AVindS. — 'l'h<' i)revailing winds dining the summer n,i the coast iiortli-
wiM'd of N'aneouver island are from I lie north-west, preceded during thu
earlier sununer nu>nths by south-westerly winds.

During the winter months S.K. ami S.W. winds prevail.

Gales from the S.K. prevail nt all seasons, and are more frcfptent jind
scvero than those i-xperieneed ou the coast of Vancouver island. The
summer gales are of sliorti-r duration than those of winter !in(l scMoni last
more than 4H lujurs. At the fall of the year, gales la.sling for H days,
from the S.K. have been experienced.

The strength of the summer winds depends greatly ujioii Incnl (urcum-
stances. Down the channels, which lie in a N.W. and H.K. dirct'tion, with
high land on botii shores, they frequently blow with great strength. The
wind usually begins at sunrise, increases in strength throughout the day
until about 15 p.m., and then gradually declines towards sunset. 'I'lie nights
as i: rule arc calm during the summer months. But, if the wind prevail
but slightly from the N.W. during the night, it will probalily i)low hard
from that ([uartcr on the following day.

The barometer stands at about 30' 10 during the prevalenee of N.W.
wii'.ds. (iales from the south-east are usually preceded by a falling baro-
meter, but not invariably. A sensation of dampness in the atmospiicre is
the usual j)recursor, and the wet. and dry bulbs, though as a rule not differ-
ing greatly upon this coast, more closely register the same.

If during the summer the barometer fall a tenth of an incii, especially
if it has been registering higher than 'My20, a gale from the south-cast is
probable.

These gales usually begin at P].S.H., veering to the southward with a
falling barometer, and the w ind remains at S.K. and S.S.E. fi>r a long or
short period according to the season of the year. With a rising barometer
the wind shifts to the S.VV. with violent siiuallH, and then hauling uioro
W-'sterly blows itself out. A strong S.E. gale was exjx^rlenced, of short
duration, during the summer, with the barometer previously registering
30-17 and falling to 30-12.

riiAP. III.]

WINDS.— FOOS. — CLIMATK.

Fogs '""o proviilcnt, fsiit'ciully iluriiig tliu suiiimer moiithn. The
noilli-wi'St winds wliirh provuil <luriiit4 tliiit season contlenso tlio vapour
which arises from the comparatively warm water whlcli surrounds Queen
Charlotte island and. the coast of Ala>ka. During the prevalenee of north-
west winds lhi> vapour is dispersed, liut during calnn or with li;:l»t
winds, nn<l espeeially wild M)Uiii-W'>t< riy winds sueceeflinj.' norlh-we>t
winds, it approaelies ([uickly from seaward in the form of den/io fog or
dri/./.ling mist and rain.

At times fogs will 1)C found nt the mouths of tlic sounds during the
forenoon, dispersing near noon l»y the heat of the sun, the afternoons being
aeconipanii-il liy fine clear weather.

CliniatO. — 'Ih' climnte of (^neen Cliailutte islands nud the off-lying
islands (if the eoa.-it of IJritish Cohimbia is influenced l»y the warm body of
water which washes their shores. The climate is milder, the winter beinj*
less severe on the islands than within the inlets. The vapour arising from
this body of warm water i> eonden-ecl upon the high mountains which form
the shores (if the main land, and falls in the drizzling, idmoj* '-onstaut,
min, so prevalent in these waters.

During the winter, within the inlets, ice of 8 and iz iuelies iliickncaa is
formed, and occasionidly extends as far as 2.5 miles from the heads of the
inletii.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0 ^^m

I.I

2.2

1.8

11-25 ill 1.4 IIIIII.6

'cM

"^ /

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CHAPTER IV.

INNER WATEBS.— LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Variation in 1883.
Laredo sound, 25° 40' E. | Ogden channel, 26° 10' E.

LAREDO SOUND* situated between Price and Aristazable
islands, connects Hecate strait with Laredo channel. This sound is nearly
20 miles long in a general N.N.VV. and S.S.E. direction; and from 3 to
14 miles wide.

Landmarks. — Kititstu hill on the north-eastern shore of the sound,
is of triangular shape, with a well defined summit 760 feet high. Over
the north shore of ihe sound rise three remarkable mountains, the
summits of the two northern having sharp pinnacles (north and south
Needle peaks), 2,G00 and 2,800 feet in height. The summit of the
southern and lowest of the three peaks is of conicfvl shape, 2,400 feet high.
At 4 miles from the eastern extreme of Aristazable island; two con-
spicuous hills, forming a saddle, rise to the height of 640 feet.

Coast* — The eastern shore of Laredo sound is low, wooded, and much
broken into bays and creeks. It is fringed by numerous islets, rocks
awash, and sunken I'ocks, to the distance of 2 miles from the west coast of
Price island. Outer island, which lies off Day point, when seen from
Laredo sound, appears round and well defined.

At the western entrance of the sound a group of islands and islets
extend southward from Aristazable island.

Nab rock is a dangerous sunken rock, over which the sea only
breaks at long intervals; it lies S.E. by E. distant 3 ,^,5 miles from the
summit of Entrance island.

* See Admiralty chart, cape Caution to port Simpson, southern portion, No. 1,923 B.

cuAr. IV.]

NAB HOCK. — NORTH BAY ISLANDS.

The ground is foul to the distance of one mile south-east of the rock,
and several ledges uncover at low water between Nab rock and Entrance
island.

Don point, situated on the western shore, N. by E., distant 4 miles
from the summit of Entrance island, is a peninsula 150 feet high, and
when first seen, makes as an island.

Close northward of Don point lies a small cove, whicii affords shelter
to boats.

Double island lies on the eastern shore of the sound, N.W. ^ N.,
distant 17 miles from tiic summit of Outer island.

This island is wooded, about 100 feet high, and divided near the centre
by a cleft which causes it to appear as two islands when seen from the
southward, and northward.

Low point, wooded and flat, lies N.N.W., distant 2^ miles from
the summit of Double island.

Low rock, which uncovers at low water, lies 4 cables N.N.W. from
Low point.

Schooner point is the turning point into Laredo channel, and lies
N. by W., distant 7 miles from Don point. The coast between Schooner
and Don points is bold and rocky.

Schooner ledge whicli uncovers at low water, lies 3 cables north-
ward of Schooner point.

South Bay islands, "■ gvonp of small extent, lie at the head of
Laredo sound.

The larger islands arc wooded, 2oO feet high. The centre island of
the group lies N. -^ W., distant 2| mi)es from Low point; and E.N.E.,
distant .3 miles from Schooner point.

North Bay islands consist of three principal wooded islets, of
small extent, 250 feet high. The centre island of the group lies N.W.,
distant 1^ miles from the centre island of the SoutJi Bay group.

Steep point, liigli nnd bold, forms the north-east entrance point of
Laredo channel. It lies N. by E., distant 2 miles from Schooner point.

Soundings. — At 3 miles W.vS.W. of Outer island there is a depth
of 100 fathoms, mud. At 9 miles W. ^ N. from that island, and 4 miles
south-east of Nab rock, a depth of 19 fathoms, rock, was obtained. Be-
tween tliose positions the deptlis are from 12 to G5 fathoms, suiid. This
bank of comparatively shoal water stretching across the mouth of Laredo
sound, should servo to distinguish that sound, in thick or foggy weather,
from Milbank sound, there being depths of over 100 fathoms at the mouth
of the latter.

Q 9016. V

LAllSDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[chap. IV.

Directions. — Small sailing coasting vessels, to avoid the light
winds and calms which frequently prevail in the inner channels, make
use of Laredo sound and the channels leading northward from it, as the
wind seldom fails them in those channels. . .

In clear weather, if Outer island be not brought to bear southward of
East, a vessel will pass south of Nab rock. Kit-it-stu hill steered for
on a N. ^ E. bearing will lead eastward, and Schooner point bearing N.N.W.
leads northward of Nab rock.

Pass one mile off Schooner point, and proceed through Laredo channel
as herein-after directed. -

LAREDO CHANNEL, between Princess Royal and Aristazable
islands, is about 20 miles long in a general N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.
direction, and from 2 to 5 miles wide.

At 6 miles within the eastern entrance Laredo channel is obstructed by
a group of islands and islets, which contracts the navigable channel to
barely 7 cables Avide.

Westward of that group, the channel again widens out, and attains the
width of 5 miles at its western end.

Pury point lies on the south shore, and terminates in black, smooth,
rocks. A small bay, with a sandy beach at its heail, and an islet at its
mouth, lies close eastward of Fury point. The point lies N.W. by
W. ^ W., distant 4 miles from Schooner poiiii

Beaver ledge uncovers at low water, and lies 5 cables from the
south shore, at 1^^,^ miles westward of Schooner point. ^

There is deep water close northward of this ledge.

Islet rock lies close southward of a small islet on the north shore, at
1^ miles westward of Steep point.

South Channel islands consist of iive principal wooded islands,
150 feet high, and about one mile in<>xtent in an cast and west direction.
This group lies nearly in mid channel, G miles from Schooner point.

North Channel islands consist of two principal wooded islands, of
small extent. The 'jastern island of the group lies N.W. by W., distant
1^ miles from the western island of the South Channel group. , :

Channel rock is a dangerous sunken rock, lying nearly in mid-
channel, S.E. by E. distant 6 cables from the eastern islet of the South
Channel group.

BIitT point lies on the south shore N.W. by W. ^ W., distant
7^ miles from Fury point. This point is high and bold, with a hill 400
feet high rising immediately over it. On the north shore of Laredo
channel, abreast Bluff point, lies an islet at the mouth of a creek.

CHAP. IV.]

LAREDO CHANNEL. — CAMPANIA SOUND.

)

SoeI rocks cover at high water, and are of small extent ; 5 cables
from the south shore, and W.N.W. distant 2 miles froia Bluff point.
There is deep water at 2 cables northward of Seal rocks.

Sandspit point, situated N.W. by W., 5^ miles from Bluff point,
is white and conspicuous, with a ridge of bare hills, 700 to 900 feet high,
immediately over it. •

Sandspit shoal extends 5 cables northward of Sandspit point.

Devils point, the western entrance point of Laredo channel, lies
W.N.W. distant 4 miles from Sandspit point. Over this point lies a bare
bill with a conspicuous boulder or nob on its summit.

Spray point, the north-east entrance point of Laredo channel, is bold,
high, and lies E.N.E., distant 5 miles from Devils point. At one mile
eastward of Spray point a arc all islet lies close to the north shore.

••' Soundings. — No bottom could be obtained at 40 fathoms in Laredo
channel.

Tides. — The flood stream which approaches from Laredo sound, in-
creases in strength as the Channel island group is approached, attaining the
velocity of 6 knots an hour at springs in the channel north of that group
(Surge narrows).

In the wider portions of Laredo channel both streams attain the velocity
of 3 knots an hour at springs.

Midway between Devils and Spray poiats, the flood stream by Laredo
channel is met by the stream passing round the north-west end of Aris-
tazable island, causing at springs dangerous tidal races in that locality.

The ebb stream having divided in mid channel off Devils point, one
pov'tion proceeds round the north-west end of Aristazable island. The
other sets fairly down Laredo channel, and attains the velocity of 6 knots
an hour at springs iu Surge narrows. From Surge narrows the stream
sets directly towards Fury point, and thence sweeps along the southern
shore of the channel, passing across Laredo sound to Low point, whence it
is deflected and sets fairly to the southward.

Directions. — Having rounded Schooner point at the distance of one
mile, a N.W. by W. ^ W. course for G miles should lead into Surge
narrows, taking care, especially if the ebb stream be running, to avoid
Channel rock.

Westward of Surge narrows, a general course of N.W. by W. .J W. Avill
lead through Laredo channel to the mouth of Estevan sound.

' CAMPANIA SOUND between Princess Royal and Campania
islands, is 5 miles long in a general N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and 3

miles wide. • -

'. F 2

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[cui.vr. IV.

On the eastern shore of the sound, a conspicuous ridge of hills, with
rounded summits, rise to (he height of 900 feet, nnd the const is slightly
broken into a few useless hays and creeks.

On the western shore, the coast of Campania island is indented with
a few rocky bays. At the south-west entrance of the sound, 3 cables
from the south-cast extreme of Campania island lies a small wooded
islet, 100 feet high (Eclipse island).

The western shore of the sound, for one mile northward of Eclipse island,
has ledges which uncover to the distance of 5 cables,

Northward of that position, the western shore has no known danger
beyond 2 cables from it.

The eastern shore of the sound has ledges extending from it to the
distance of 5 cables.

South Surf islands, situated at the south-east entrance of
Campania sound, consits of three wooded islands 250 feet high, with
several small, rocky islets close to.

North Surf islands, 2.50 feet high, lying three-quarters of a mile
W. by N, ^ "N. from South Surf islands consist of three wooded islands one
mile in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E. sr . ,

Soundings. — No bottom at 40 fathoms could be obtained in Campania
sound. . , , ;

SQTJALLY CHANNEL, situated between Gil and Campania
islands, is 10 miles long in an E.S E. and W.N.W. direction, and from 2^
to 4 1 miles wide.

GIL ISLAND * which forms the north side of Squally channel, is
15 miles long in a N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and 6 miles
broad. Turtle point, the north extreme of the island, is a peninsula, with
small bays east and west of it. The north shore has a few curves along it,
scarcely deep enough to be called bays.

Gil mount is situated near the north-east end of the island, and
attains the elevation of 3,000 feet, the summit being well defined, and
always clad with snow on the north side. From Gil mount the land slopes
gradually towards the north extreme of the island.

A ridge of mountains, 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, extend in a southerly
direction from Gil mount, curving gradually to the south-eastward, and
terminating at about 3 miles from the south cud of the island.

The south-east extreme of Gil island is wooded, flat, and low.

* Isle de Gil of tbo early Spanish charts.

CHAP. IV.]

SQUALLY CHANNEL. — FARRANT ISLAND.

Channel reef uncovo-s at low wafer, and extends o cables from
tJie south extreme of Gil island (Ledge point), and fringes the shore of
that island, at the same distance, for 1| miles north-westward of Ledge
point.

W^indy islets are a group of threo islets, the outer of which lies
5 cables from the south-west shore of Gil isfland, at 2 miles westward of
Ledge point.

Windy rock uncovers at low water, and lies E.S.E. distant
5 cables from the outer or south Windy islet.

There is a depth of 20 fathoms at a cable south of the rock.

Black rock, situated on the north shore of Squally channel at 2
cables from the south-west extreme of Gil island (Blackrock point) the
fuming point into Lewis passage, covers at high water, is small, and
nearly steep-to.

The south side of Squally channel has no known danger beyond a cablt>
from the shore.

Soundings. — The depths in Squally channel are from 15 fathoms, to
no bottom at 40 fathoms.

VTeatlier. — Violent squalls will often be experienced in Squally
channel, descending from the high land of Campania island, when calms
or light winds and smooth water will be found in Whale channel.

LEWIS PASSAGE, between Gil and P'in islands, takes a
northerly direction for 4 miles, thence a north-west direction for 4 miles,
into Wright sound, with an average width of 1^ miles.

The eastern shore of Lewis passage has no known danger beyond half a
cable from the shore,

PIN ISLAND lies 2 miles westward of Gil island, and is 4 miles
long in a north and south direction, with an average breadth of 1^ miles.
Plover point, the north extreme of Fin island, has a deep bay close north-
ward of it, with several islets lying at the mouth of the bay. The bay dries
throughout at low water. Four bare rocky islets fringe the north shore-
of Fin '^land, at the distance of a cable.

Pin rock is awash at high water, and lies on the western shore of the
channel, 2 cables from the south extreme of Fin island.

CRIDQE PASSAGE, between Fin and Farrant islands, is
3 miles long in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and one mile wide.

Soundings. — There is no bottom at 40 fathoms in mid-channel iu
Cridge passage. •

PARRANT ISLAND lies at the sonth-cast entrance of Gren-
villo channel, and is 9 miles long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction,

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[chap. IV.

and from 4 to 6 miles broad. The land on the south side of Farrant
island reaches an elevation of 1,700 feet. -^

Blossom point, the south extreme of the island, has a small islet
lying close to, with a ledge extending a cable south-west of it.

Block heEd) the eastern extreie of Farrant island, terminates in a
high, bold, white cliff. The coast between Block head and Yolk point is
broken into several bays ; the largest lies close under the latter point, and
has two patches of rock which uncover, lying 2 cables from the shore at
its mouth.

Yolk point, the nof th-east extreme of the island, lies W. by N. J N.
distant 3^ miles from the north extreme of Gil island, and N.W. 4 miles
from Yolk point.

Yolk point is smooth, bare, and rocky ; and is nearly steep-to.

Davenport point, the north extreme of Farrant island, is a bold
projection, and lies W.N.W., distant 3 miles from Yolk point.

Union Passage (Matliksimtas), between Farrant and Pitt islands,
enters Grenville channel about 4 miles westward of Yolk point. This
passage has not been explored.

WHALE CHANNEL situated between Princess Royal and Gil
islands, is 12 miles long in a general N.N.W. ^ W. and S.S.E. J^ E.,
direction, and from 2 to 3 miles wide. There is no known danger in this
channel beyond 2 cables from the shore.

Soundings. — There is no bottom at 40 fathoms in Whale channel.

Leading point lies on the eastern shore, 5 miles southward of
Holmes bay. (-See page 36). Immediately over the point is a conspicuous
hill, of triangular shape, 700 feet high.

River bigllt lies between Holmes bay and Leading point, and is a
deep indentation, with a large river at its head.

Maple point lies on the western shore, abi'east of Holmes bay. This
point is comparatively low, and wooded, with many maple trees growing.

At one mile south of Maple point lies a sandy bay, with a conspicuous
Bandy beach at its head. i :, .:

Sta-rub point, on the western shore, 5 miles southward of Maple
point, is comparatively low, flat, and wooded.

Camp islet is a small, conspicuous, wooded islet, lying 2 cables from
the western shore, at 9 miles southward of Maple point. This small islet
is connected with the eastern shore of Gil island at low water.

South of Camp islet there is a comparatively deep bay, one mile wide at its
mouth. This bay is occupied at low water by a ledge of rocks which
Uucorers.

CHAP. IV.]

UNION PASSAGE.— CAMPANIA ISLAND.

Molly point lies on the western shore, one mile south-east of Camp
islet, and is the turning point of Whale channel into Campania sound.

Trouble island is a small, narrow, low island, lying one cable
from the eastern shore, at the south entrance of Whale channel.

Barnard cove lies south and east of Trouble island, and affords
shelter to boats and small craft. Pass mid-channel between Trouble island
and the eastern shore of Whale channel, and anchor in 20 fathoms, mud,
in the eastern part of the cove, 2 cables from the eastern shoie.

Passage island situated at the junction of Whale channel and
Campania sound, is 2 miles long in a north and south direction and one mile
broad. It is wooded, the tops of the trees being about 250 feet above high
water. Off the south-east side of Passage island, a group of islets, rocks,
and sunken dangers extend 5 cables in a south-easterly direction.

The passages east and west of Passage island are deep, and 6 cables wide.
On the eastern shore of the eastern channel, several rocky islands extend
from one to 2 cables from the shore, at the mouth of a bay.

ESTEVAN SOUND lies between Estevan and Campania islands,
and is about 15 miles long in a general W.N.W. and E.S.E. dii'ection,
and from 2^ to 5 miles wide. At the south-east entrance of the sound
there are several islets, rocks, and sunken rocks, nearly in mid-channel-
To a stranger, therefore, Estevan sound cannot be recommended.

If, however, circumstances should compel him to use it, a course
should be steered to pass three-quarters of a mile northward of
South Watcher islet. Thence a general course of W.N.W. cautiously
for 15 miles should take a vessel into Nepean sound, keeping nearer the
south shore of the channel, to avoid the dangerous ledges which extend
to the distance of a mile from the south side of Campania island.

CAMPANIA ISLAND is nearly 15 miles long in a W.N.W.
and E.S.E. direction, and from one mile to 1 miles broad. At one mile
from its eastern extreme the island has an elevation of 1,000 feet,
increasing westward, until it culminates in two bare mountains, with
dome-shaped summits, 2,000 feet high. These mountains are of granite
formation, and furnish an excellent landmark when seen from seaward.
From their summits, which lie 4 and 6 miles respectively from the eastern
extreme of the island, the land falls to the westward, the western end ot
Campania island being, comparatively, low and wooded.

The northern shore of the island is bold, with a few rocky bays along it.
The north-east extreme terminates in a high, bold, white cliff.

The southern shore is low, wooded, and broken into bays and creeks ;
fringed by islets, rocks awash at high water, and at low water, to the
dibtunce of one mile.

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[chap. IV.

The western shore is bold, ami little broken, with n small, white rock,
6 feet above high water, lying o cables from it (Marble rock),

Soutb. watcher is a small woodeil islet, 100 feet high, lying nearly
iu mid channel at the eastern entrance of Estevan sound. The summit
of this islet lies S.W. ^ W, distant 3^-^ miles from Eclipse island ; and
N.E. by M ^ E., distant 3^^ miles from Breaker point.

The Soutii watcher has ledges which uncover at low water extending
from it north-Avest and south-east to the distance of 5 cables.

North watcher islet is small, wooded, and conspicuous ; 60 feet
high ; and lies W. | N. distant 1 j",, miles from South watcher islet.

The North watcher has ledges which uncover, and sunken dangers sur-
rounding it to the distiinco of 8 cables.

Blinder rock, over which the sea breaks occasionally, lies
S.W. by W. distant one mile from the summit of South Avatchcr islet;
and S.E. distant a little more than a mile from North watcher islet.

Sstevan ledge, which uncovers at low water, is one cable in extent ;
and lies West distant 8 cables from the summit of North watcher islet.

Breaker point, the eastern extreme of Estevan island, is low and
wooded, from this point the coast trends N.W. by N. for about 4 miles,
and is broken into bays and creeks, with several islets and rocks lying
close to the shore, thence W.N.W. for about 5 miles, at which point
lie two conspicuous small islets, a cable from the shore from which the
coast trends W. ^ S. for about G miles, with d deep curve to the south-
ward, until terminating at the mouth of Otter passage.

Don ledge, which uncovers at low watei', extends E.N.E. 6 cables
from Breaker point.

Breaker reef consist of 3 rocks awash, surrounded by sunken rocks
over which the sea nearly always breaks ; the outer rock of which lies
S.W., distant 2^ miles from Breaker point, and nearly 1^ miles from the
nearest part of Estevan island. " "• • .

Trap rocks, some of which are awash at high water, extend 8 cables
northward of the north-west extreme of Estevan island ; and thence front
the western end of the island at the distance of 2 to 6 cables.

Guano rocks lie on the north shore, and consist of a cluster of
3 white rocks, lying one mile off the south side of Campania island at
6 miles westward of Eclipse island.

The highest rock is 30 feet above h^'gh water ; and the group is sur-
rounded by rocks awash and sunken rocks to the distance of 5 to 7 cables.

Between Guano rocks and Eclipse island, ledges which uncover at low
water extend 5 to 6 cables from the shore.

CHAP. IV.]

BRE.VKER rOINT. — rRINCIPE CILiNNEL.

ISffarrble rock lies 5 cables westward of the west extromo of Ciiin-
panja island. This bare rock is G feet above high water, small, white, and
conspicuous.

Marble rock is nearly steep-to on all sides, and may be approached to
half a cable.

Soundings. — The depth of 40 fathoms was obtained in Entevan
sound, at 2 cables from the dangei*s fronting the shore of Campania island,
depths of 7 and 20 fathoins were found close alongside of the rocks,

NEPEAN SOUND lies between Estevau sound and Principe
channel, and is about 7 miles long and 4 miles wide. '

Otter channel leads westward from Nepean sound, and is about
3J^ miles long, and from 3^ miles at its western, to one mile wide at its
eastern end. There is no known danger beyond a cable from the shore
in Otter channel.

Soundings. — The water in Otter channel is deep, there being no
bottom at 40 fathoms at 5 cables from the shore on both sides.

Steep point, the north-eastern entrance point of Otter channel,
terminates in a high, bold, white cliff.

OTTER PASSAGE leads south-westward from Nepean sound,
between Estevan and Banks islands. This passage, though nearly 1^ miles
wide, is obstructed on its western shore by a group of islands, islets,
and rocks (Block islets), which contract the navigable channel to barely
4 cables wide in places.

~^ This narrow channel is rendered more dangerous by the strong tides
■within it, the greater portion of the ebb stream finding its way out of
Nepean sound by Otter passage. This stream, which passes through at
the rate of more than 6 knots an hour at springs, meeting the ocean
swell at the western entrance of Otter passage, produces a most turbulent
breaking sea, dangerous to small vessels.

In no case should Otter passage be attempted, except at slack water and
•with local knowledge. , , -

PRINCIPE CHANNEL, between Pitt and Banks islands, is
about 42 miles long in a general W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and from
2 to 7 miles wide. From its eastern entrance this channel takes a general
N.W. by W. ^ W. direction for 18 miles, W. by N. for 10 miles, and
W. ^ N. for 14 miles to the mouth of Ogden channel.

The south shore of the channel is bold, with mountains irom 1,200 to
1,700 feet rising over it.

The north shore is much broken, especially about midway, into bays,
in two of which anchorage may be found (ports Stephens and Canaveral).

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[oiiAP. ir.

The mountains on Pitt island, at about 3 miles from the shore, rise to
the height of 1,000 to 3,000 feet.

Deer point ^t 4 miles westward of Block islets, is a small peninsula
on the south shore, and makes as an islet.

Gale point is prominent, bold, and high, and lies 5 miles north-west
of Deer point. A renmvkablo bare mountain, 1,250 feet high, lies close to
the shore at 3 miles westward of Gale point. The coast immediately under
this mountain is broken into several narrow creeks, with some small rocky
islets at their mouths. With the exception of these bays the south shore
of Principe channel is unbroken.

Despair point at ll miles westward of Gale point, is bold, and
nearly steep-to.

Headwind point lies 5^ miles westward of Despair point, thence
the coast is bold and unbroken.

Deadman islet is « small wooded islet lying close to the shore
off the north-west extreme of Banks island, about 15 miles westward of
Headwind point.

End hill is an oval-shaped hill 450 feet high, lying close to the south
shore at 2 miles eastward of Deadman islet.

W^Olf point, the iouth-eastern entrance point of Principe chanuel, is
high, bold, and conspicuous, with several small islets close-to.

Brodie rock, a dangerous sunken rock, lies S.W. by W. ^ W.
distant one mile from Wolf point. Between Brodie rock and the shore the
ground is foul to 2 miles westward of Wolf point. ^ ^

A depth of 66 fathoms was found at 2 cables south of Brodie rock.

Port Stephens* lies on the north shore at about 8 miles within the
eastern end of Principe channel.

The harbour at its entrance is 4 cables wide, and extends in a N. by E.
direction 6 cables, N.E. 6 cables ; and thence in an easterly direction
for 8 cables, terminating in two bays, with a large stream at the head of
the southern bay. . j

Guide islet, a small bare islet, lies one mile eastward of the port, with
two small islets (the Sisters) lying nearly midway between it and ' ort
Stephens.

Directions. — Keep mid-way between the entrance points (Bluff
and Centre points), and steer N. by E. for 5 cables ; thence N.E, for 5 cables,
keeping mid channel. Haul gradually to the eastward as the harbour opens
out, and anchor in raid channel in about 12 fathoms, with Bluff point
shut in with the south shore, the latter distant 2 cables.

* See Admiralty plan :~Fort Stepbens, on sheet No. 2,189 ; scale, m = 3-25 laches.

CHAP. IV.]

PORT STEPHENS.— MINK TRAP BAY.

TidOS. — It Is high water, full mid chan^^e, at port Stephens at Oh.
.30m. ; springs rise 18 feet.

Bluff point situated N.W. by W. ^ W. distant 8 miles from AVolf
point forms the western entrance point of port Stephens and terminates
in a high white cliff.

Oar point li«8 W.N.VV. distant 6 miles from Bind' point, the coast
between those points being bold and nnbroken. Immediately westward
of Oar point, the coast recedes northward, terminating in two narrow
arms (Mink trap bay).

Canoe islet is a small bare, islet, not unlike a canoe in appearance,
when first seen.

It lies off the mouth of Mink Trap bay, at one mile N.\' by W. ^ W.
from Oar point.

Green top islet, situated N.W. by W. ^ W., (Vit !ant tl:ree-quartrrs
of a mile from Dauoe islet, is small, with a patch of grass and shrub on its
summit. • . . ^

MINK TRAP BAY situated on the north shore, about 8 miles
westward of port Stephens, consists of two long narrow creeks, separated
by a peninsula ; this bay has deep water in it, but is useless as nn
anchorage for other than small vessels and boats.

At the head of the eastern arm is an Indian village, to which a tribe of
the Kit Katlah Indians resort in summer for salmon fishing.

Anger island, on the north shore, 9 miles westward of Oar point,
is about 4 miles long and 2 miles broad, with shoals extending from its
south and east sides 5 to 7 cables. Near its western end the island reaches
an elevation of 730 feet.

Trade and Storm islands are clusters of islets which extend
from 5 cables to 1^ miles from the south and eastern shores of Anger
island.

Wheeler islet is «■ small wooded islet, distant 5 miles from the
western extreme of Anger Island (Foul point).

Cliff islets extend north-east of Wheeler islet to the entrance of
Petrel channel. These islets are bar© and rocky, with foul ground be-
tween them and the shore of McCauley island.

McCauley island on the north shore, is 17 miles long, 9 miles
broad, and wooded nearly throughout.

This island near its centre rises to the height of 1,160 feet. Almost
midway, on its south side, a bare liill with a flat top, 400 feet high, lies
close to the shore.

LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

[chap. IV.

PORT CANAVERAL* lies near the south-east exdeme of Mc-
Cauley islarnl, about 21 miles ivestwartl of port Stephens.

Dixon island lies on the western side of the port, witli several
islands and islets lying off its south and eastern sides to the distanco of
2 cables.

Squall point, the south-east entrance point of port Canaveral, is
the termination of the spur from Hat hill, and is bold and conspicuous.

Red point, on the north shore, opposite Squall point, has a cliff of
red-brown colour over it.

Alarm rock, with 8 and 10 fathoms close-to, is a dangerous sunken
rock lying nearly in mid-channel at the mouth of port Canaveral, at
2 cables W.N.W. from Squall point, and 2^ cables from Red point.

Harbour bank, with 6 fathoms over it (probably less) lies 1^
cables eastward of Alarm rock, and midway between Squall and Red
points.

Clown rock lies on the western shore, and is the outer danger
extending south-east of Dixon island.

This rock, which dries 3 feet, lies S.E. by E. distant 3 cables from Tonkin
point (the south extreme of Dixon island), with foul ground between it
and the ohore.

Stephen rock is 3 feet above high water, and lies on the western
shore at a cable and a half from Dixon island. The outer portion of
Stephen rock, which uncovers at low water, lies S.E. distant 2^ cables
from Dimple point (north-east extreme of Dixon island).

Directions. — Entering port Canaveral, Dimple point may be
steered for when in line with Stephen rock, bearing N.W. by W., until
Bush islet (off south-west extreme of Dixon island) is just shut in with
Tonkin point W.S.W. The latter mark kept on astern will lead to the
anchorage ground ; and anchor in 14 to 15 fathoms, sand bottom, at
ll cables north-east of the north entrance point (Red point.)

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in port Canaveral at Oh.
30 m. ; springs rise 18 feet.

Anchorage was obtained by Vancouver, on two occasions, on the
north shore, westward of port Canaveral, at 3 cables from the shore, in
34 and 35 fathoms, respectively. The exact positions are not recorded.

Bush and Dark islets are small, wooded islets, which lie close
to the south shore of McCaiiley island, off the mouth of port Canaveral, at
2 miles westward of Wheeler islets.

* Set Admiralty plan :~Port Canttveral, on sheet No. 2,189 ; bchIc, m = 325 inches.

CHAP. IV.]

PORT CANAVERAL. — HANKIN LEDGES.

Petrel channel is "" miexaminecl passage between Pitt and
McCauley islands; its sonthern entrance is about 3 miles wide, <hence
the channel runs north-west for nearly 8 miles, when it divides, one passage
running northward, the other southward of Lofty island, and again joining
at 2 miles eastward of Ogden channel.

Hankin ledges conaist of rocks awash and sunken dangers, which
extend nearly one mile oflFIIankin point (south-we '; extreme of McCauk^
island).

Directions. — The mid-channel course should l)c kept when
navigating Principe channel, until Hearing Any^i island, when the
south, shore should be nearcd to avoid the dangers which extend off' that
island.

Soundings. — The depths in Principe chanKcl are from 66 fathoms,
sand, to 140 fathoms, rock.

Tides. — The flood approaches principally by Estevan sound, being
joined in Nepean sound by the stream which enters through Otter passage.
At the western end of Principe channel this stream is met by tlie flood
which has passed up outside Banks island. The ebb stream runs out
principally by the Otter passage. Both streams attain the velocity of
3 knots an hour at springs. •

CHAPTER V.
OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL.

Variation, in 1883.
Cape Calvert, 24° 55' E. | Ogden Channel, 26° 10' E.

CALVERT ISLAND.—* The coast of Calvert island is but little
broken on its southern and western shores ; which are comparatively low,
and thickly wooded.

Sorrow Island, situated at the pitch of cape Calvert, the south
extreme of Calvert island, is conspicuous (and an excellent thick-weather
mark) from its clifiy formation, and by being covered with stunted, weather^
beaten trees. .

Mark nipple, an isolated hill (350 feet) at the south-west ex-
treme of Culvert island, is a very useful landmark when approaching
Fitz-Hugh sound.

Landing, with fine weather and oft-shore winds may be effected in
Grief bay (north of Sori'ow island) and in other bights, westward to
Herbert point the S.W. extreme of the island, about 8 miles distant. For
dii'ections for North channel, sec page 10.

Blakeney islet, is small, wooded and about half a mile long, lying 5
cables from the south-west extreme of Calvert island.

FitZ Roy reef, the most outlying danger off the western shore of
Calvert island, uncovers at low water, and is about 5 cables in extent in an
east and west direction. Its outer or western edge lies W. by N. distant 1^
miles from Blakeney island; and l^ miles from the neax'est shore of
Calvert island.

Carrington reefs are a cluster of sunken rocks, the outer edge of
which lies 5 cables from the western shore of Calvert island, at 1 1 miles
northward of Blakeney island.

* Sec Admiralty chart: — Cape Caution to port Simpson, No. 19,236b ; scale, m = 0'26
of an iocb.

CHAP, v.]

CALVERT ISLAND. — HAKAI CHANNEL.

The coast of Calvert island northward of the Carrington reefs, is foul
to the distance of 5 cables.

Kwakslma is an unexamined channel lying between Calvert and
Hecate islands. At its western entrance this passage is 5 cables wide, and
takes a north-easterly direction. {See page 13.)

Ewaksliua rock lies nearly in mid channel, at the western entrance
of Kwakshua channel. The sea only breaks at intervals over this dan-
gerous sunken I'ock.

Hecate reefs fringe the western shore of Hecate island to the
distance of 8 cables.

HAKAI CHANNEL between Hecate and Nalau islands, is about
7 miles long in a general N.E. ^ N. and S.W. ^ S. direction, and from one
to 1^ miles wide. (See page 13.)

Sugar loaf llill, on the western side of Hecate island, is 500 feet high.

Leading peak lies about l^ miles southward of Sugar loaf hill, and is
of triangular shape, with a sharp, Avell-defined summit. '

South, pointers are a cluster of bare black rocks, of small extent,
2 feet above high water, and surrounded by sunken dangers to the distance
of 2 cables, these rocks lie on the south shore, at the western entrance of
Hakai channel, 1^ rniles westward of the Starfish group.

North pointers »i'e a cluster of bare rocks, of light colour, lying on
the north shore at the western entrance of Hakai channel. The western or
outer rock lies N.N.W. distant 2^ miles from South pointer I'ocks.

Starfish, group, wooded, from 70 to 150 feet high, lie on the south
shore, and extend about 1^ miles in a north-east and south-west direction.

The group consists of three principal islands, much broken into long,
rocky, narrow creeks, with ohoros of white clilfs.

Starfish ledge, over which the sea usually breaks, lies 2 cables from
the north-west shoro of the northernmoBt Starfish island (Long island).

Breaker group situated on the north shore in the middle of Hakai
channel, is about one mile in extcjit, the larger islands being wooded,
about 250 feet high, and the smaller bare.

Breaker ledge uncovers at half ebb, and lies 5 cables south-east of
the centre island of the Breaker group.

East rock situated on the south shore, oif the mouth of Welcome
harbour, is awash at low water, and lies half a mile off shore, N. by E.
distant 5 cables from the western entrance point, and N.W. by N. distant
6 cables from the eastern entrance point of that harbour.

There are depths 23 and 25 fathoms close to East rock, and 30
fathoms between that rock and Port reef.

96 OUTER OOASTjCAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [chap. v.

Port reef is awash at liigh water, and lies E. ^ S. distant 2 cables
from East rock.

Clearing marks.— -Leading peak (head of Welcome harbour) seen
in line with Bluff point (north side of Welcome harbour) bearing S.S.E-
will lead westward, and Sonth pointers rocks S.S.W. will lead northward
of these rocks.

Choked passage Uos southAvard of the Starfish group ; it is
obstructed by rocks awash, reefs, and sandbanks.

WELCOME HARBOUR* situated on the south shore of Hakai
channel near its western end, is 3 cables wide at its entrance, and 1 ^ miles
long in a S.S.E. direction. Though somewhat confined, it aflbrds good
shelter to small vessels. Within the harbour, on the north shore, there is a
sandy beach ; where a vessel might be beached. Strong westerly winds send
a swell into this harbour.

Fairway rock, with 24 feet water over it, lies nearly in mid-channel
at the mouth of Welcome harbour. There is a depth of 20 fathoms close
westward, and of 9 fathoms close eastward of the rock.

Leading peak seen just northward of Bluff point bearing S.S.E. , will
lead eastward ; and Sugar Loaf hill, seen in line with Leading island,
a small, rjund, wooded island within the hubour, will lead close westward
of Fairway rock.

Harbour ledge, situated one cable from the western shore of
Harbour island, is of small extent, and dries 4 feet at low water.

Codfish rock, with 12 feet water over it, lies 100 yards off (he south
shore of Harbour island.

Wolf rock, awash at high water, lies close to the north shore, at
one cable westward of Sandspit point.

Sandspit point bas a sandspit extending from it one cable.

Directions. — Having passed not less than 5 cables northward of
Starfiph giwip, the leading mark before given for clearing East rock
should be brought on and steered for.

Especial care ■^ill be necessary if the flo(d stream be making.

Having cleared East rock, pnss east or west of Fairway rock f as
requisite, and anchor in 7 to 9 fathoms off Sandspit point, in mid-
channel between Leading island and Wolf rock, with the former bearing
N.W. distant one cable.

Exposed bay, on the south shore, abreast Breaker group, has
a dangerous cluster of sunken rocks near the middle of the bay.

* See Admiralty plan :— Welcome harbour, on sheet No. 1402.
f Fairway rock is marked by kelp during the summer moDths.

CHAP, v.] WELCOME HARBOUR. — QUEEN S SOUND.

Soundings.— At 2 miles south-west of North pointer rocks there is
a depth of 65 fathoms, sand. Approaching Hakai channel from that position
the water will shoal to 40 fathoms, hut will deepen to over 100 fathoms
when within the channel eastward of a line joining North and South
pointers rocks. There are depths of 125 and 101 fathoms eastward of that
line.

Tides. — The floo<l approaches from the south-westward. Both streams
attain the velocity of 4 knots an hour at springs.

Directions. — Hakai channel is not recommended to a stranger.
If using it, steer midway between North and South pointers rocks ;
thence a mid channel course (N.E. \ N.,) towards a conspicuous mountain
on the eastern shore of Fitz-Hugh sound, which will lead through into that
sound.

NALAU PASSAGE he '"een the Nalau group and Hunter island,
is obstructed by islands, islets, rocks awash, and sunken dangers, and is
useless for navigation. (iSec page 13.)

White CliflF island, situated W. by N. ^ N., distant 4 miles from
the western or outer North Pointer rock, is of small extent, bare, and 250
feet in height ; its shores consisting of high white cliffs, render it conspicuous
when seen from the south and west.

QUEEN'S SOUND situated between Goose and Hunter islands, is
about 12 miles long in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and from 4 to 8
miles wide.

At its northern end lie a labyrinth of islands and islets, which render
that poi'tion of the sound intricate and dangerous.

Soundings. — At the mouth of Queen's sound there are depths of 73
and 76 fathoms, sand ; and within the sound no bottom could bo found at
40 fathoms at one mile from the shore.

Spider island, 250 feet high, situated on the eastern shore, at the
cn'""''ee of Queen's sound, 3 miles northward of White Cliff island, is 3^
miles long, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and 1^ miles broad, it is con-
nected with Hunter island by a ledge of rocks awash, through M'hich there
are boat passages, and its north-west extreme terminates in high, bold,
white cliffs. The shores of Spider island are broken into numerous narrow
rocky creeks.

Superstition point on the eastern shore of Queen's sound, 2^ miles
northward of Spider island, is the south-west extreme of a small island, which
is connected by a narrow neck, awash at high water, with Hunter island.

Superstition ledge consists of high rocks, connected by rocks awash
and sunken dangers, the outer extreme of which lies S.W., distant 1^ milei
Q 9016. Q

«■

98 OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [chap. r.

from Superstition point. Strong tide races will be met with in the vicinity
of this ledge, and the sea breaks upon it heavily at times.

PURPLE BLUPP, the south-west extreme of a group of
islands, on the eastern shore of Queen's sound, at the mouth of Plumper
clianuel, terminates in high, bold, basaltic cliffs of a purple tint. The group
consists of a labyrinth of islands, islets, wooded and bare, rocks awash, and
sunken rocks, extending over a space of nearly 5 miles.

Purple bluff lies 5 miles north-west of Spider island, and is distant
5 miles from the Goose island group.

GOOSE ISLANDS, on the western shore of Queen's sound, consist
of 4 principal islands, connected at low water, the largest and northernmost
island is 250 feet high, wooded, and its north-east extreme terminates in
conspicuous high white cliffs.

Yellocki is an Indian fishing village, situated on the eastern side of
the westernmost Goose island.

Gosling rocks consist of numerous rocks, awash at high water, and
sunken dangers, the outer extreme of which lies nearly 4 miles S.S.E. of the
southernmost Goose island.

West rock, awash at high water, lies one mile south-west of the
westernmost Goose island.

PLUMPER CHANNEL lies between Hunter and Campbell
islands, and leads from Queen's sound into Lama passage. Its southern
end is obstructed by numerous islets and rocks ; and no specific directions
can be given for entering the Plumper channel.

As a general guide, however, if the conspicuous white cliff on the north-
easternmost Goose island be kept bearing S.W. astern, it vn\l lead towards
the mouth of Safe passage. Thence the chart and eye must be the guides.

HECATE CHANNEL lies between Campbell island and the
Bardswell group, and leads from Queen's sound into Seaforth channel.
This channel is also obstructed at its southern end by numerous islets and
rocks. The two principal passages are Codfish passage and Brown narrows.
No directions can be given for entering them, aud the remarks concerning
Plumper channel apply also to Hecate channel.

BROKEN GROUP (Qual-n-qute), situated 2 miles northward of the
Goose island group, extend 2 miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and
consists of several islets and rocks, connected throughout by ledges which
uncover at low water.

Fingal island is a small wooded island 1) ing one mile W. by N. from
the northernmost island of the Broken gioup.

CUAP.T.] PLUMPER CHANNEL. — BARDSWELL GROUP.

Fingd.! ledges extend one mile in a southerly direction from
Fingal island, and consist of rocks awash, and ledges which uncover at low
water.

Peveril rock Hes l^ miles N.N.E. from the northernmost Goose
island, and is awash at high water.

Middle rock, 6 feet high, lies N.W. by W. ^ W. distant 3 miles from
the north-west extreme of North Goose island, and W. by S. distant 2|
miles from the south island of the Breaker group.

There is a depth of 29 fathoms, rock, at 5 cables southward of the rock.

North breaker is a dangerous sunken rock, lying N.N.W. distant
one mile from Middle rock. There is a depth of 27 fathoms, rock, at one
mile westward of the North breaker.

Limit island is a small wooded island, with foul ground extending
5 cables south-weat of it.

Rempstone rocks consist of two patches awash at high water, one
mile apart, lying E. by S. and W. by N. of each other.

The western or outer rock lies south-east, distant 1^^^ miles from cape
Swain.

BARDSWELL GROUP lie on the eastern side of Milbank
sound, and consist of low, wooded islands, extending over a space 7 miles
square. Among the group are several boat channels, communicating between
Milbank sound and the Seaforth and Hecate channel.

Aristazable island situated on the western shore of Laredo sound,
is about 26 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, from one to 10 miles
broad, ard wooded. At about 8 miles from its south-east extreme there is
a conspicuous saddle-shaped hill 640 feet high. Near the western end of
the island, over the north shore, a bare ridge of hills, with 4 conspicuous
peaks, rises to the height of 950 feet.

Over the south extreme of the island there are some bare hills 350 feet
high, and at the extreme western end of the island there is a remarkable
boulder or nob lying on the summit of bare hill. The southern shores are
broken into bays and creeks, obstructed by islets and sunken rocks ; and
there are several off-lying groups of islands.

Entrance island, situated l^ miUs southward jf the south-east
extreme of Aristazable island ; and W.N.W., distant 16 miles from Outer
island (entrance of Milbank sound), has a small islet lying close south of it,
and is the outer island of a group which extends from the south-east point

a 2

100 OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [chap. v.

of Aristazable island. The larger islets of the group are wooded, the
smaller bare.

White rock, lOO feet high, bare and conspicuous, situated N.W. by W.,
distjint 3 miles from Entrance island, is the outer rock of a group extending
2 miles from the shore of Aristazable island.

SGntinel island, 250 feet high, small, round, wooded, and con-
spicuous, lies off the south point of Aristazable island, at 1^ miles from the
shore; and W. ^ N., distant 4 miles from White rock.

Between Sentinel island and the nearest island of the group east of it,
distant 5 cables, there is no bottom at a depth of 40 fathoms.

Several rocks awash and sunken rocks lie northward of Sentinel island,
fringing the south shore of Aristazable island.

The two most outlying rocks, which arc from one to 2 feet above high
water, lie respectively W. by N. distant one mile, and W.N.W. distant
4^ miles from Sentinel island.

GANDER ISLANDS (Cha-che-Kwas) are a group of islands,
islets, and rocks, extending over a space 10 miles long in a N.N.W. and
S.S.E. direction, and 4 miles wide ; at about 6 miles from the south shore
of Aristazable island. The larger islands of the group are wooded, the
smaller ones bare ; and the tops of the trees are from 70 to 150 feet above
high water.

North. Gander island is the northernmost and largest of the group,
is about 2 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and half a mile
broad.

Middle Gander islands are two small, wooded islands, lying close
together, the northern island lying S.S.E. distant 5 miles from the south
extreme of the North gander island. A bare rock, with sunken rocks
surrounding it, lies N.W. by N. distant 2 miles from the Middle gander
islands.

South Gander island lies S.S.E. distant one mile from the Middle
Gander islands. It is 4^ miles long, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction,
half a mile broad, 70 feet high, and wooded.

South-east Gander islands, lOO feet high, are two small wooded
islands lying close together, S.E. by E., distant 3 miles from South
Gander island. Two small bare rocky islets lie 2 miles north-west of
South-east Gander islands.

Goose ledge, which uncovers at low water, lies S. by W. distant 3
miles from South-east Gander islands, and S.E. ^ S., distant 3 miles
from South Gander island.

CHAF. v.]

GANDER ISLANDS. — ESTEVAN ISLA.ND.

101

SparrOWhawk breakers* lie, respectively, 4 and 6^ miles S. by E.
from Soutli-east Gander islands.

There is a depth of 21 fathoms between these reported dangers.

Tide rip islands consists of two groups lying N.N.W. and S.S.E.
distant 2 miles from each other ; the southern group lying 2 miles north-
west of the Gander group.

These islands, which extend over a space of about 7 miles in a
N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, are wooded, about 200 feet high.

The northern and largest island of the group terminates at its north-
west extreme, in high, white conspicuous cliffs.

Tides. — The flood runs from the southward. Both flood and ebb
streams attain at springs, among these islands, a rate of 4 knots an hour.

Soundings. — Westward of Laredo sound, no soundings have been
taken beyond the distance of one mile from the south shore of Aristazable
island. The depths obtained at that distance were 23 fathoms and no bottom
at 40 fathoms.

CAUTION. — Circumstances did not permit of an extended ex-
amination being made of the Gander and Tide rip groups and their
vicinity. The water in the channels passing through them is deep ; but
the tides are strong. Those channels should, therefore, not be attempted
by a stranger. And when approaching those groups of islands, the lead
and look-out should be attended to. ' -

ESTEVAN ISLAND, situated 6 miles westward of the Tide rip
group, is about 14 miles long in a general W. by N. and E. by S. direction,
and from 2 to 5 miles broad. The southern shores of the island are com-
paratively low, wooded, and much broken into bays and creeks. Near the
centre, on the north shore, the land attains an elevation of 1,500 to
1,700 feet, forming a mountain of saddle-shupe with the highest part to
the westward.

The northern shores of Estovan island have already been <lcscribcd.
(Seep. 87.) .- ,

HAYCOCK ISLAND, small, bare, and GO feet high, lies
S.E. ^ E., distant 4| miles from Curtis point; and W. by S. ^ S., distant
7 miles from Breaker point (eastern extreme of Estevan island).

Haycock rocks are three rocks awash, which lie respectively
W. by S., S. by E., and N. by E.> distant one mile from Haycock island.

The passage between Haycock island and Estevan island, should not bo
attempted.

* H.M.S. Sparrowhawh passed between and reported these brcukers in 1 869.

102 OUIER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [ciur. v.

Curtis point, on the south shore of Estevnii inland, is low and
wooded, with some rocky islets close to ; this point lies N.W. ^ W., distant
4J miles from the summit of Haycock island.

Curtis rock, <v dangerous sunken rock, over which the sea breaks
occasionally, lies S.S.W., distant one mile from Curtis point.

Cox point, the west extreme of Estevan island, lies 5 miles westward
of Curtis point. With the exception of a small bay at one mile westward
of Curtis point, the shore between Curtis and Cox points is biit little broken.

Marchaint rock, over which the sea breaks at low water, lies South
2 miles from Cox point, and I^ miles from the nearest shore of Estevan
island.

Cone islet, small, wooded, 250 feet high, and conical, is the southern-
most of the Block islets, and lies at the southern entrance of Otter passage,
at 2 miles from the shore of Banks island.

Brea<ker islets, which lie off the eastern end of Banks island, at one
mile westward of Cone islet, consist of a group of islets and rocks awash,
the highest islet being about 70 feet high and wooded.

BANKS ISLAND situated 2 miles westward of p]stevan island, is
about 41 miles long, in a general W. by N. and E. by S. direction, and from
5 to 10 miles broad. The southern shore is wooded and comparatively low,
seldom e. -oeeding the height of 150 feet. This shore is broken into bays and
creeks, rendered useless as anchorages by numerous rocks awash, and sunken
dangers.

The northern shore is high and bold, with a mountain range ot 1,000
to 1,760 feet over it ; the latter elevation being attained near the northern
shore, at about midway between the east and west extremes of the island.

At about 10 miles from the western end of Banks island the land becomes
low and flat, and is inteisected by many creeks.

CslSLTOaity bay at the eastern extreme of Banks island is 3 miles wide
at its entrance, and extends 3 miles in a north-westerly direction, it consists
of iron bound shores, with rocky islets and sunken dangers occupying the
bay nearly throughout.

Terror point, the south-east extreme of Banks island, is high and
bold, 200 feet above high water. From its outer extreme this point slopes
inland, and makes as an island.

Terror rocks consist of rocks awash and sunken rocks, over which
the sea breaks heavily, extending one mile south-eastward from Terror
point.

Shrub islet of small extent, 80 feet high, with a conspiciious patch of
bush upon its summit, lies south-west distant 3 miles from Terror jioint.
Shrub islet has Bunken rocks surrounding it to the distance of 3 cables.

CHAF. v.]

BANKS ISLAND. — SOUTH ROCKS.

103

Grief point, situated N.W. by W. i W., 8 miles from Terror point,
is low and Avooded.

Grief ledge, consisting of rocks awash and sunken dangers, extends
1^ miles south-west of Grief point.

The coast between Terror and Grief points has foul ground extending
off it to the distance of one mile.

Foul bay lies between Grief and Wreck points, and is 5 miles wide
and 2 miles deep. This bay is useless aa an anchorage, being obstructed
by islets, rocks, and sunken dangers.

VSTreck point, u conspicuous projection from Banks island, is low
and wooded lying W. by N., distant 5 miles from Grief point.

Junk ledge,* consisting of rocks awash, and ledges Avhich uncover
at low water, extends nearly 2 miles soutli-east of Wreck point.

North Danger rocks lie 7 miles southward of Wreck point.
This dangerous cluster consists of five bare rocks of small extent, 10 feet
above high water, and surrounded by rocks awash and sunken rocks to the
distance of 5 cables.

The centre of this dangerous cluster lies S.E. by E. ^ E., distant 18 miles
from the summit of Bonila island. Vessels should keep southward of the
line joining Shrub islet and North Danger rocks, and not pass between
those dangers and Banks island.

Kelp point lies W. by N,, distant 8 miles from Wreck point.

K!elp ledge extends 1^ miles southwai'd of Kelp point. Between
Wreck and Kelp points the shore of Banks island is foul to the
distance of one mile.

Halibut rocks consist of two dangerous clusters (cove at high
water) about 5 cables each in extent, lying W.N.W. and E.S.E., distant
1^ miles from each other.

The centre of the eastern cluster lies E.S.E., distant 9 miles from the
summit of Bonila island, and S.E, by S., distant 4 J miles from ClitF point.

CliflF point lies west by north distant 6 miles from Kelp point, and
terminates in high, bold, white cliffs. Three small rocky islets lie near the
shore close eastward of the point.

Soutb. rocks he to the southwai'd of Bonila island, and consist of two
clusters of rocks awash at high water,of small extent, lying S-S.E. and N.N.W.,
distant one mile from each other.

The south or outer group, over which the sea usually breaks heavily, lies
S.S.E. distant d^^ miles from the summit of Boi.iU island.

^^»w

mmmmK

101 OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [oiup. v.

li-

lt .

High. Wator rocks lif nemly midwny betwocn Boiiila island and
Banks isknd (Clift" point). Tlio cluHtor consists of six rocks, awnsli nt liigh
water, about 2 cables in extent, at 2^ miles E. .J S., from the summit of
Bonila island.

BONILA ISLAND, situated 9 miles S.S.E. from the N.W. point
of Banks island, and 4 miles from the south shore of the island, is an excel-
lent landmark.

The island is about 2 miles long, in an cast and west direction, and one
mile broad. On its eastern shore lie two small bays, with some rocky islets
lying off their mouths, 2 cables from the shore. Near the centre the island
reaches an elevation of 5.50 feet. The summit is dome-shaped, falling
almost perpendicularly on its north and south sides, but sloping gradually to
the westward. From this peak, an excellent view of the adjacent coast and
off-lying dangers moy be obtained. During the summer months, the sides
of Bonila peak are clothed with purple-tinted heather.

Landing mfiy be effected at the head of the southern small bay on the
eastern side of the island.

North-west rocks are a cluster half a mile in extent, lying N.W.
by W. distant 2 miles from the summit of Bonila island. The highest
rock is 3 feet above high Avater.

North rocks nre a cluster, about 5 cables in extent, awash at high
water, and lie E.N.E. distant 1^ miles from the centre of North-west
rocks ; and N.N.W. distant 2 miles from the summit of Bonila island.

Middle rocks -ire two clusters, awash at low water, lying respectively
W.N.W. distant 1^ miles, and N.N.E. distant 2 miles from the summit of
Bonila island.

WHITE ROCKS He close to the shore at the western extreme of
Banks island, the two largest rocks are about 30 f et above high water,
bare and conspicuous, with several smaller rocks surrounding them.

They form an excellent landmark wuen making Ogdcn channel from
Hceate strait.

The coast between White rocks and Cliff point, and between those
rocks and Dcadmau islet, is much broken, with several creeks running
inland.

AnchorEge for small craft in fine weather i3 stated to exist close
northward of White rocks at the mouth of a creok.

CHAP, v.]

DONILA ISLAND. — OGDEN CHANNEL.

105

Supplies. — Game nboniids on all tho off-lying iKlandi*. Notwithstanding
tho presence of woIvck, deer are in great numbers, especially on tbesouthc-u
shores, which appear to be their favourite resort.

Water is plentiful at all seasons, the source apparently beinj; springs.

Trout may bo procured in the streams.

Berries, especially the whortleberry, cranberry, and wild raspberry, were
found in abundance during July and August (1869).

Cedar and |)itch pine were the principal woods met with.

SOUNDINGS.— On the seaboard, between Calvert island and
Mill)ank souiid, at the distance of 4 to 5 miles from the shore, the sound-
ings arc from 53 to over 100 fathoms.

At a distance of .5 miles westward from Blakeney i.«land there is a depth
of 54 fathoms, reddish sand, deepening to 76 and 89 fathoms, fine brown
8an<l, to abreast Hakai channel.

At 2 miles southward from White Cliff island, there is depth of 70 fathoms,
sand. Proceeding westward from that position across the mouth of Queen's
sound, the depths will be from 70 to 76 fathoms, sand ; there being u depth
of 72 fathoms, mud and sand, at 7 miles southward of the Goose island group.
From the last position proceeding in a north-westerly ilirection, passing 5
miles westward of the Goose island group, the water will deej)en to 78 ;uid
80 fathoms, mud and sand, and occasionally shells and stones.

With cape Swain bearing N.N.E,, distant 4 miles, the water will deojien
quickly to 105 and 109 fathoms, rock, off the mouth of Milbank sound.

OGDEN CHANNEL,* situated between Pitt and Porchcr isliuuls,
is about 16 miles long, and from 4 cables to J ^ miles wide. This channel
affords the shortest means of communication between Queen Charlotte
islands (Skidegate) and the inner waters. At its southern end, Ogden
channel is divided by Spicer island into two passages (Schooner, and Braver
passages) ; and at one mile northward of Spicer island, the channel is ob-
structed by a group of islands (Channel islands) which reduce the navi-
gable channel to 4 cables wide.

The water, however, in the Ogden channel is deep; and the il.ingcis
(with one exception) are visible except at high Avater.

La<IldlIia>rkS. — On Dolphin island a mountain with an irregular broken
summit rises to the height of 1,400 feet. South-etist of that mouiitiiin, and
close to the shore, lies a hill with a conical summit (False cone hill). Off the
south shore of Dolphin island in the vicinity of False cone hill, lie two
small islets. The western islet lies close to the shore and is bare ; the i r.stern

* See Admirnlty chart: — Ogden channel and adjacent anchf ges, No. 1901 ; scale,
m =• 1 inch.

106 OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVEllT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [chap. v.

islet lies about a mile off shore, is wooded and about 100 feet high (Sentinel
island).

On the eastern side of Dolphin island, close to the shore, a hill with a
conical summit rises to the height cf 454 feet. This conical hill (Passage
cone) is a useful mark for indicating Schooner passage. Onlthe north-west
side of Spicer island a saddle-shaped hill rises to the height of 800 feet.

Northward of the Channel group of islands, the land becomes higher.
On the eastern shore, close northward of Alpha bay, a conical mountain
(Anchor mountain) rises to tlie height of 1,934 feet. At one mile south of
Alpha bay, there is a remarkable white patch on the rocky eastern shore.

On the western shore, abreast of Alpha bay, an extensive valley extends
inland. At 3 miles northward of the valley rises a mountain 1645 feet high
with vegetation denuded from its sides by landslips.

Peninsula point, the north-west entrance point of Ogden channel
is prominent, with a hill near its eas;em extreme. Northward of the
point there lies a bay about 5 cables wide, and one mile deep, in a westerly
direction (Oona bay).

Long island consists of two low wooded islets lying close together at
1^ miles southward of Spicer island.

Channel island is a small wooded islet lying nearly midAvay
between Long and Spicer islands.

SPICER ISLAND, Hituate<l between McCauley and Dolphin islands,
is of triangular shape, the base being to the north, and 2^ miles long. The
island near its centre attains an elevation of 827 feet. On its south-east
side two small narrow bays lie in a noith-westerly direction. And off its
south-west side, at 5 cables from the shore, there is a cluster of islets and
rocks, some wooded and others bare.

Channel group lies on the western shore, at one mile northward of
Spicer island. The large islands are wooded, and the eastern islet of the
group is small, bare, and conspicuous. Ilalf-a-mile northward of the
Channel group lie some small islets, one bare (White rock), and another
covered with vegetation (False grassy islet).

South twin islet is a small wooded islet on the eastern shore,
5 cables from the eastern islet of the Channel group and one mile north-
wai'd of Spicer island. This islet and the eastern bnro islet of the
Channel group indicate the navigable channel, which lies between them.

North twin islet resembles South twin islet from which it lies
N.N.W. distant 6 cables. The tops of the trees on North twin islet are
about 130 feet high. Several small islets lie between the North and South
twins and McCauley island.

OHAF. T.]

SPICER ISLAND.— SCHOONER PASSAGE.

107

BEAVER PASSAGE, between McCauIey and Spicer islands, is
the wider and better of the two passages leading into Ogden channel.

At its western entrance Beaver passage is about 5 cables wide, and runs
in a N.E. by N. direction for about 4^ miles, thence sharply to the JT.N.W.,
towards the Channel group, for 2^ miles.

North, rock is always visible, and lies nearly in mid-channel at the
southern entrance of Beaver passage, 5 cables south-cast of Long island.

ConniS rocks lie on the western shore (and marked by kelp in the
season) 3 cables from the north-east extreme of Spicer island. The outer
of these rocks only covers at high water.

On the eastern shore, abreast Conuis rocks, lies a small bare islet, at
the mouth of a sandy bay.

Soundings. — There is a depth of 42 fathoms, rock and shell at the
western entrance of Beaver passage, and no bottom at 20 fathoms within
the channel.

Directions. — Having passed through in mid-channel between Long
island and North rock, steer N.E. by N. for about 4| miles ; N.N.W. for
about 1^ miles, and pass midway between South twin islet and the
Eastern (bare) islet, of the Channel group.

Northward of the Channel group Ogden channel widens to nearly
2 miles. The shore on both sides has nr known danger beyond
2 cables.

SCHOONER PASSAGE, between Spicer and Dolphin islands,
is barely 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and Is about 3 miles long in a
general north and south direction, with depths of 20 fathoms, to no
bottom at 33 fathoms.

Boys Rock, a dangerous sunken rock, lies at the southern end of
Schooner passage, 2 cablris from the south-east extreme of Dolphin island.
There is a d(;ptli of 49 fathoms, rock, at 2 cables south of Boys
rock.

Sentinel island bearing W.N.W. will lead southward ; and Passage cone
hill bearing N. by W. wiU lead eastward of Boys rock.

Directions* — Having brought the clearing marks on for Boys rock,
pass a cable westwacd of the two small rocky islets which lie 5 cables N.N.E.
of that rock. Thence the mid-channel should be kept, and v/hen abreast
the aorth end of Spicer island, steer to pass midway between that island and
t'ne south islet of the Channel group. Pass eastward of the latter at a
distacce of 2 cableB, and proceed as before directed for Beaver passage.

108 OUTER COAST,CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL, [ciur.

TidOS. — The flood stream comes from the southward, aud near the
north end of Ogden channel divides, one part turning to the eastward into
Grenville chaunel, the other continuing northward towards Skecna
river. The ebb stream from Grenville channel, Chatham sound and
Skeena river unite off the north end of Ogden channel, and pass out by
it. The muddy water of Skeena is usually clearly defined against the
blue water of Ogden channel.

Both flood and ebb streams, in the narrow portions of Ogden channel,
attain the velocity of 4 knots an hour at springs.

ALPHA SAY, situated on the eastern shore, 4 miles within the
north entrance of Ogden channel, faces the west, and is nearly one mile
wide, but only 3 cables deep. Near its northern end a deep valley extends
mlund, and through it there flows a fine trout stream. From the south
entrance point of this stream a ' .ndspit extends 2 cables towards the north
point of Alpha bay.

Anchorage may be found in 10 and 11 fathoms, 1^ cables from the
nearest shore (Fish poini), with the south entrance point of the trout stream
bearing N.E. distant 2^ cables; and Anchor mountain over the north shore
of the bay N.E. ^ N. ; in this position the point on the western shore under
Bareside mountain should be seen in line with nor*h point of Alpha bay,
bearing N. by W. J W.

Tides. — It is bigb water, full and change, in Alpha bay t Noou;
sp"?ugs rise 18 to 19 feet.

Observation spot, on north point, is situated in latitude
53° 52' 1" N. ; longitude 130' 17' 34" W.

109

CHAPTEK VI.

PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS AND PORTLAND

CANAL.

Variation, 28° Easterly in 1883.

PORTLAND INLET.*— This arm of the sea extends from the
north-east part of Chatham sound in a N. by E. ^ E. direction for
10 miles, thence N. by E. for 10 miles where it divides ; one arm (Obser-
vatory inlet) continuing northward, and the other (Portland canal) takin|; a
north-westerly and northerly direction. At its southern entrance, between
Wales and Maskelyne points, the inlet is about 3 miles wide, and its shorps
are comparatively free from danger, beyond the distance of 2 cables.

Landmarks. — The shores of Portland inlet are high and bold,
especially the eastern. Needle peak lies on the south-east side of Nasoga
gulf. This remarkable mountain terminates in a sharp snow-clad pinnacle,
5,000 feet high. Northward of Nasoga gulf, the shores of Mylor
peninsula are high, bold, and precipitous, rising almost perpendicularly
from the sea to the height of 3,000 feet. On the western shore Entry
peak on Wales island has been already described. {See page 77.) The
mountains on Pcarse island lie in ridges nearly parallel to the shore, and
the land is lower than on the eastern shore of the inlet. Northward of
Lizard point the western shore becomes low and wooded, flanked by
mountains 1,900 to 2,200 feet in height.

York Island lies N.E. distant 6 cables from the north extreme of
Wales island, nearly in mid-channel, between that island and Pearse island.
It is small, wooded, 100 feet high.

Abreast York island, a channel leads westward communicating with
Portland canal ; and with a smaller channel extending in a north-west
direction. This channel is obstructed by several islands and islets, which
render the passage intricate.

Compton island lies at the north entrance of Work channel. This
island is of triangular shape, with a base 2 miles long to the southward, the
northern extreme of the island terminating in a long, low point. There is
a boat passage into Work channel eastward of Compton island.

* See Admiralty chart : — Port Simpson to Crois sound, No. 2481 ,- scale, m
an inch.

016 of

110

PORTLAND INLET.

[CHA.r. TI.

Smma passage^ northward of Compton island, is 5 cables wide, and
runs in an E.S.E. direction for 3 miles, thence N.N.E. 3 miles, and
terminates in a sandy baj.

The depths throughout the latter arm are from 23 to 36 fathoms.

Union bay lies at the head of the south-east arm, and affords anchor-
age for smf il vessels in 20 fathoms, a cable from either shore.

SOMERVILLE ISLAND, 2,000 feet high, on the eastern side
of the inlet, is 8^ miles long, in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction, and
3 miles broad. The shores of this island are wooded, and bold, the land on
its western side rising almost perpendicularly from the sea. The island is
but little broken, except on its north side, where there is a bay, with deep
water in it, 5 cables wide, and one mile in extent, in a southerly direction.

Elliott point, the south extreme of Soraerville island, lies N.byE.
distant 4 miles from Maskelyne point, and E. by N. ^ N., distant 3^% miles
irom Wales point.

Truro island lies 2 cables from the south-west side of Soraerville
island. This island is about 1^ miles long, in a N. by E. and S. by W.
direction, and nearly half a mile broad. The island is wooded, with bold
shores, and culminates in two hills 800 feet high.

AnclloragO was found by Vancouver off a small bay on the west side
of Truro island, in " 35 fathoms, soft bottom."

Nob islet is a small round wooded islet, 30 feet high, lying close to
the western shore of Somerville island, distant 8 cables from the north
extreme of Truro island. There is a remarkable white cliff just southward
of Nob islet.

Start point is the north extreme of Somerville island, aud lies abreast
Lizard point, 2J miles from it. The point is high, and bold, with a deep
bay close eastward of it.

Cliff point lies N. f E,, distant 7 miles from Wales point, and
terminates in high cliffs. Immediately south of the point is a narrow
creek, which extends some distance inland in a north-west direction.

Lizard point is a prominent point on the western shore, N.N.E.,
distant 3 miles from Cliff point. There are sandy l)ays close north and
south of this point, extending back a considerable distance, giving to
Lizard point the shape of a peninsula, and when seen from the westward,
makes as an island. At 2^ miles northward of Lizard point there are
some conspicuous red-brown earthy cliffs.

Flat point lies N. { E. distant 5\ miles from Lizard point. The
fthore between these points is wooded and comparatively low^ and a similar
conformation exists one mile and a half northward of Flat point.

oair.vi.-] SOMBRVILLB ISLAKD. — PORTLAND POINT.

Ill

Portland point, about is miles within the inlet, lies North distant
3 miles from Flat point. This point, which forms the turning point
into the south-east arm of Portland canal, is high, bold and nearly
steep-to.

Ramsden point, which divides Observatory inlet from Portland
canal, lies N.N.E. distant 2^ miles from Portland point.

A dangerous cluster of rocks, awash, and sunken, extend to the
distance of 4 cables south-east of Ramsden point, with depths of 120 and
126 fathoms, mud, at 4 cables from the north-east, and south-east sides.

Steamer passage lies eastward of Somervillc island, with an
average width of 5 cables. From its south entrance it runs in a N.E.
direction for 5^ miles, with depths of 23 and 29 fathoms water throughout ;
thence N, by W. for 5 miles, the water deepening to no bottom at
39 fathoms.

Khutzeymateen inlet is a° unexamined arm, 5 miles within
Steamer passage. It is 5 cables wide at its entrance, and runs in nu
E.N.E. direction.

QuinamaSS bay, on the eastern side of Steamer passage, abreast
the north end of Somerville island, is 5 cables wide at its entrance, and takes
an easterly direction. At low water it is almost completely filled up with
a sand-flat, rendering the bay useless as an anchorage.

NaSOga gulf, eastward of Mylor peninsula, extends in a north-easterly
direction for 5 miles, is one mile wide, and terminates in conijaaratively
high land. There is no bottom at 39 fathoms, in this gulf.

AncllOrage will be found, near the head of Nasoga gulf, in 10 to 12
fathoms, sand, in mid-channel, 2 cables from the north shore.

Mylor peninsula, is a high and comparatively narrow strip
of land on the eastern side of Portland inlet, between Nasoga gulf and
Nass bay. The peninsula is 9^ miles long in a N. by E. and S. by W.
direction, with an average breadth of 2 miles. A small islet (Ranger
islet) lies off its south extreme, and there the land is comparatively low
(450 feet) ; but it rises quickly to the height of 2,900 feet, and forms
high, bold, precipitoub shores. About one mile from the north extreme of
the peninsula the land again begins to fall, and terminates in the low,
wooded point (Low point), which forms the south-west entrance of Nass
hay.

Trefusis point, tl»6 south extreme of the peninsula, terminates in
high white cliffs.

112

PORTLAND INLET.

[CUAP. TI.

Ranger islet is a small bare islet, which lies 3 cables from the
shore of Mylor peninsula, at the mouth of Nasoga gulf.

Soundings. — The water in the southern portion of Portland inlet is
deep, there being no bottom at 220 fathoms iu mid-channel, at 2 cables
from the western shore 99 fathoms, and at 2 cables from the eastern shore
of the inlet 159 fathoms, mud.

NASS BAY* on the east ehorf lies immediately northward of
Mylor peninsula, at the mouth of Nass river. The entrance points of
the bay lie north and south of each other, distant 2 miles. The bay pre-
serves this width in an easterly direction for 3 miles, and then divideSj one
branch running in a north-easterly direction to the mouth of Nass river, the
other in a south-westerly direction, forming Iceberg bay.

Landmarks. — Low point is wooded, flat and low. On the south
shore of the bay, half a mile eastward of Low point, there rises a moun-
tain 2,040 feet high, with a bare side fucing the north- west (Landslip
mountain).

Nortll point, the north entrance point of the bay, terminates in a
bold cliff ; and one mile eastward is a deep valley (Mission valley) extending
to the northward. On the western side of the valley, one mile back from
the coast, a conspicuous mountain, 3,385 feet high, will be seen (mount
Tomlinson). Through the valley a large stream runs, dividing near ita
mouth into two branches. East of the stream, at the mouth of the valley,
stands Kincolith mission station. Fort point, the north-west entrance
point of Nass river, terminates in white cliffs. And on the eastern side of
the bay, some low, dark islands (Mud islands) will be seen.

EinCOlith. is a mission station, fronted by a sand-flat, which renders
communication by boat, except at high water, almost impossible.

Position. — The observation spot at the east side of Mission valley is
in latitude 54° 59' 26" N., longitude 129° 57' 36" W.

Canoe flat. — An extensive sand-flat commences at Fort point, and
taking a south-westerly direction, forms a triangle, the apex of which lies
6 cables off shore, south-oast of the mission station ; thence it takes a north-
westerly direction, and meets the shore half a mile westward of Kincolith.

An extensive sand-flat occupies nearly the whole of the eastern portion
of the bay at low water. And the entrance into Nass river is obstructed
by a bar upon which there is only 9 feet at low water.

The western portion of Nass bay is deep ; but as the north shore is
approached, it shoals suddenly from 45 to 15 and then 2 fathoms
water.

* See Admiralty plan :— Nasi ba}, No. 2,190; Jcale, m ^ S inche*.

OBAl'. VI.]

NASS BAY. — ICEBERG BAY.

113

Ancllorag^O, in fine weather, will be found off Kincolith, nearly in the
middle of Nass bay, on the line joining the Mission station and Landslip
mountain, in 10 fathoms, mud, about 8 cables from the north shore ; with the
mission flagstaff seen in line with the centre of Mission valley, bearing
N. by E., and Leading point (south side of Nass river) seen just open of
Fort point (north-west entrance of Nass river), bearing N.E. by E. ^ E.

CaTltion. — A strong ebb tide will be felt in this position, and care must
be exercised in taking up a berth, Canoe flat bising very steep-to, it is
recommended to use the deep sea lead in approaching it.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Nass bay at Ih. 5m. j
springs rise 17 to 23 feet.

ICEBEP.G BAY, the south-west arm of Nass bay, is 3 miles
long in a S.S.W. direction, and not less than 7 cables wide. The head of
the bay terminates in a low swampy flat, fronted by a sand-flut, and is
distant 3 miles across from the head of Nasoga gulf.

At the mouth of Iceberg bay the depth of 10 fathoms, and less, will be
found ; but as the head of the bay is approached the water will deepen to
over 40 fathoms.

AncllOragO may be obtained at the mouth of Iceberg bay, in 7 to 8
fathoms, mud, with the north-west entrance point of Nass bay (North point)
seen in line with the north-west entrance point of Iceberg bay (Double
islet point) bearing N.W. by W. J W., distant 3 cables from the latter.

Directions. — if taking up this anchorage, having rounded Low point
at the distance of 3 cables, keep the south shore of the bay on board ; pass
one cable northward of Double islet point, and anchor with that point in
line with North point, in the bearing and distance above given.

Mud islands consist of two small islands lying N.N.E. and S.S.W. of
each other, distant 4 cables, the northern island is 145, and the southern
106 feet high. They lie parallel to the eastern shore^ distant 6 cables
from it.

Nass river flows into the north-east corner of Nass bay. The month
of the river is obstructed by a sandflat, which dries at low water, and
extends towards the mouth of Iceberg bay. The south-west extreme of
this extensive flat (Ripple tongue) lies North, distant 2^ cables from
Double islet point.

Within the river, the navigation is difficult and dangerous ; and the channel
at low water is barely available for largo canoes. The Nass river, at its
entrance, abreast Fort point, is 1^ miles wide; thence it runs E.N.E. for
V miles ; and N.N.E. for 7 miles, to abreast the Nasts villages. The
channel near the mouth of the river being tortuous, the distance by the
Q 9016. H

114

OBSERVATOBT INLET.

[CHAr. TI,

channel from Fort point to the Nass villages, is about 16 miles. The
river continues in a north-easterly direction for 25 miles beyond the lower
Nass villages, and there divides, one branch running in a north-westerly
direction. Kilawalaks, the head of canoe navigation, is situated on the
N.W. branch 40 miles from the lower Nass villages. There are said to be
600 natives at Kilawfdaks. (1868.)

Nass villages. — The lower Nass villages are three in number,
situated 16 miles within the entrance ; the north and south villages are
situated on islands, and are separated from the middle village at high water.
The south, middle, and north villages are known, respectively, by the
names of Kit-min-i-ook, Kit-lah-kum-ka-dah, and Kit-a-Kauze. The
population of the three villages is about 500. (1868.)

Tides. — The time of high water at the lower Nass villages is uncer-
tain, depending apparently upon the freshets down the river. There was
no slack at high water, the water beginning to full immediately it had
ceased to rise (August 1868). At low water there was slack for one hour
and a half. In the month of August the flood stream was not felt above
the Middle bank, and from Indian report this is the case at all seasons.

Ice. — The river is reported to freeze over down to its mouth during

severe winters.

Hudson Bay Company's trading store lies on the western shore, about
one mile below the middle village.

The Houlikan, from which the nutritious oil is obtained, the principal
sustenance of the Indians, are caught in great numbers during the spring.
For this purpose, numerous fishing weirs arc erected along the banks of
the river, especially on the south shore.

Directions. — The Nass river is used by small coasting vessels
after half flood. The navigable channel is tortuous, and it is recommended
not to attempt the river until the strength of the flood tide has slackened.
The channel is liable after freshets to change.

OBSERVATORY INLET, northward of Nass bay, is called by
the Indians Kit-Sah-Watl. This inlet is generally speaking similar to
the other inlets, in some parts however the shores are low, and wooded ;
the land rising at a few miles back to 4,000 and 5,000 feet high. The low
wooded shore has an undergrowth of thick moss, overlying rock, and
saturated with moisture, which renders travelling difficult.

Abreast the north-west entrance point of Nass bay. Observatory inlet is
one mile and a quarter wide, and runs in a general northerly direction

ciiAr. VI.]

SALMON COVE. — PADDY PASSAGE,

115

for about 1 2 mil<»s thence N. by W. for 4 miles, and widens to 3 miles
abreast Salmon cove. Northward of ^ulmon cove, the inlet widens to
4 miles ; and at the distance of 6 miles from the cove, is obstructed by
several islands, islets, and rocks. At 10 miles from Salmon cove the inlet
divides into two arma, one taking a north-easterly direction for 12 miles,
the other a north-westerly direction for 15 miles ; both arms terminating in
low, wooded, swamps, fronted by mud flats.

Salmon cove* lies on the western shore, 19 miles from Bamsden
point and 39 miles from Wales point.

Richard point, the north point of Salmon cove, is a long, wooded,
conspicuous projection. From its north-east extreme the land trends in a
south-westerly direction, for 1| miles, to the head of Salmon cove, which
is barely 3 cables wide in that position.

A sandflat extends 2 cables from the south shore at the mouth of Salmon
cove.

Anchorage was obtained by Vancouver in Salmon cove ** in 31 and 35
'» fathoms water, muddy and small stony bottom. The points of the cove
" bore by compass N.N.E. and S. by E., and the nearest land W. by S., 1 J
*' cables distant, and the opposite shore of the inlet E.N.E. one mile
« distant."

Anchorage was also obtained by Vancouver, in 30 fathoms, on the
eastei-n shore, one mile northward of Salmon cove. On two other occasions
he anchored in Observatory inlet, in 85 and 45 fathoms respectively,
" steadying with a hawser to the trees on shore."

Soundings. — The water in the reach south of Salmon cove is deep,
there being over 100 fathoms in mid-channel. The shores are compact and
steep, with no known danger beyond 1 ^ cables from the shore.

Brooke island, 2| miles long and half a mile broad at its northern
end, is low, and wooded. The south extreme of this island lies 4 miles
northward of Richard point, and 6 cables from the eastern shore.

Several patches of rock, which uncover at low water, extend 5 cables
northward of Brooke island.

Paddy passage is 5 cables wide, between Brooke island and the
eastern shore. Near its northern end it is barely 2 cables wide, the
navigable channel being reduced to that width by the ledges which extend
northward from Brooke island.

* This cove was so named by Vancouver, from tho abundance of saUaon found in a
stream which flowed into it.

H 2

116

OBSERVATORY INLET.

[onAP. VI.

Frank point, situated N. by W., 5 milca from Richard point, and 1;^
miles from the Avestern shore of Brooke iHland, is low, jvnd wooded, between
it and Richard point the land trends considerably to the westward, and
forms near the latter point a bight nearly 2 miles deep. Northward of
Frank point, the western shores are much broken, with several deep bays,
Avhich take a southerly direction.*

XschWEn is the name of a salmon fishery which lies nt the head of a
small bay on the western shore, 4 miles northward of Frank point.

LarCOm island, situated nearly in mid-channel, at the mouth of
Hastings arm, is about 5 miles long, in a N.N.W. ^ W. and S.S.E. J E.
direction, with an average breadth of 5 cables ; ila south extreme lying 6
cables north-westward of Brooke island. Larcom island is flat, wooded,
and comparatively low. At its south-west end, there is an extensive
lagoon.

The Channel westward of Larcom island, is obstructed near the north
end of that island by several islets and rocks, and is only available for
boats.

HASTINGS ARM passes eastward of Larcom island, and runs in a
general N.W. ^ N. direction for 4 miles, thence westward for about one
mile, and N.W. by N. for 9 miles, until it terminates at the head of the inlet.

This branch of Observatory inlet is from 5 to 10 cables wide. It termi-
nates in the usual manner ; a wooded swamp, fronted by a mud flat.

Directions. — The water in Hastings arm is deep, with no known
anchorage ground. If proceeding into this channel, pass between Brooke
and Larcom islands, taking care to avoid the foul ground which extends
5 cables northward of the latter; the mid-channel course is clear of
danger.

ALICE ARM 13 the name of the eastern branch of Observatory
inlet. From its junction with Hastings arm, it runs in a northerly
direction 3 miles, N.E, 3 miles, E. by N. 4 miles, and N. by E. 3 miles,
terminating in the usual manner. This arm is obstructed at its entrance
by a small wooded island (Liddle island) which divides it into two channels
3 cables wide. There is a depth of 23 fathoms in mid-channel in the
southern, and 16 fathoms in the northern of these passages.

♦ Vancouver camped in the bay nearest to Frank point. He states that having
pitched his tent among the pine trees, " nt least 20 feet above the surface of the water at
" our landing, and as we thought sutficientiy without the reach of the tide, yet at about 2
" in the morning it flowed into our tents, and we were obliged to return to our boats."

CMAT. TI.]

HASTINGS ARM. — ALICE ARM.

117

Alice arm varies in width from 5 cables to 2 miles ; the latter being at
the head of the inlet. The flat at the head is extensive, and through it
a large stream flows, flanked on its eastern side by mountains over 5,000
feet high.*

Perry bay, situated on tiie eastern shore at the mouth of Alice arm, is
2^ cables wide, and takes a southerly direction for nearly a mile, with depths
of 14 and 18 fathoms, mud bottom, in mid-channel.

Off" its western entrance point lies a small islet (Sophy islet). At the
head of the bay there is a salmon fishery (Muckshwanne).

Tides. — The strength of tide in Observatory inlet depends upon
the freshets caused by the melting snow. Abreast Nass bay, the ebb runs
with great strength, the blue water being clearly defined when meeting
the muddy waters of the Nass river.

PORTLAND CANAL is about 62 miles long, and from one to
1^ miles wide. At its entrance, which lies about 20 miles from Wales
point, Portland canal runs N.W. G miles North about 13 miles to abreast
Camp point, thence in a direction varying from N.W. ^ W. to N.W. ^ N.
for about 30 miles, and northerly for about 12 miles, until terminating at
the head of the canal.

This inlet possesses the general characteristics of the other inlets on the
coast of British Columbia. High land on both shores, te jinating in low
swampy land at the head of the inlet. Deep water ; few and indifferent
anchorages.

In places the mountains rise almost perpendicularly above the high
water line to the height of 6,000 feet. Their summits were (August
1868) snow clad ; and the melting snow produced many waterfalls and ava-
lanches ; the latter could be heard falling almost constantly during tho day-
time. With the exception of a few wooded valleys at the mouths of
streams, the snow line was very low at midsummer, being within 20 feet
of the high -water line in some of the valleys on the western shore,
and reaching to within 500 feet of the high water line on the mountain
sides.

The head of Portland canal was found to terminate in the usual low,
woody, swampy, land, with one or more rivers flowing through it.

• Vancouver met witb friendly natives, whose village was at the head of this branch.
Their language, in some respecti, resembled that spoken at Queen Charlotte island.

118

PORTLAND CANAL.

[OHAP. VI.

The two rivers (Bear nad Salmon) at the head of Portland canal are
separated by a hif^li rldgo of bare mouutains. On the east side of the
valley of Bear river a mountain range extends in an east and west
direction. Mount Disraeli, the highest peak of the range, is a snow
clad pinnacle, 7,000 feet high. The delta of the Bear and Salmon
rival's consists of a mud flat, which covers at high water, and extends
over one mile from the mouth of the former river. This deposit of mud
is nearly steep-to, breaking down suddenly to no bottom at 40 fathoms.

Current. — During the month of August (1868), a current] of obout
one mile and a half an hour was observed, setting down Portland canal,
to the distance of 25 miles below the mouth of the Bear river.

ClimatO. — The sun's rays in August, between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., were
very powerful, and reflected from the snow, caused occusionally intense
heat. When the sun was obscured by the mountains, the atmosphere at
once conveyed a sensation of chilliness.

During that month, just before sunrise, the thermometer registered
32° Fahrenheit, water left in basins ..ithin the tent being frozen during
the night. The vapour developed by the heat of the sun during the early
portion of the day, becoming condensed on the mountainous shores of the
inlet, usually fell as a drizzling rain from 3 p.m. to about miduiglit.

Temperature of the surface water, within 20 miles of the head of
the canal, was 33°. At that distance from the mouth of the Bear river
the water on the surface was fresh.

Supplies. — Salmon, mountain sheep, bears, and berries abound at the
head of Portland canal.

Timber, &C. — The pine and cedar were the principal trees met with.
The former were tall, and almost bare to Ihc top, and frequently above
100 feet high. The latter were found in many places of great size, with
branches close to the ground. Maple trees wfi .• occasicmally seen, being
distinguished by their light and variegated tiiiis of green. Yellow cypress
was seen also, being distinguished from the pine by its leaf, cpnvex on both
sides, and by its peculiar odour.

The wood of the yellow cypress is light, tough, and durable, and useful
for repairing or building boats.

Natives.* — A party consisting of about 200 natives were met with

* These Indians (apparently of the Nass tribe) were civil to the Burveyiug party. By
order of their chief they cleared the ground and helped to pitch the tent, brought the
gear out of the boat, hauled her up, and placed canoes at the party's disposal.

CHAP. VI.]

CURRENT. — CLIMATE. — SUPPLIES.

119

fishing fit the mouth of Salmon river. They annually visit the heail of the
Portland canal.

South-east arm leads from Portland inlet in a north-westerly direc-
tion for about 6 miles, with an average width of 1^ miles.

Dogfish, bay,* situated on the eastern .shore, about 3-^ miles from point
Ramsden, is about l^ miles wide, half-a-mile deep, and faces the south-west.
This bay, being occupied by a sand-fiat at low water, is useless as an
ancho' age.

A small islet (Windy islet) lies close to the shore at the north entrance
point of Dogfish bay.

Tree point, on the western shore, 4^ miles from Portland point (south
entrance point of Portland canal), is low, wooded, and conspicuoas, with
high land at about one mile south of it.

Tree point reef extends 5 cables in a northerly direction from Tree
point, and is nearly steep-to.

Spit point lies on the eastern shore, distant G miles from Ramsden
point, and is the turning point into the northern reach. Between Spit point
and Dogfish bay several small wooded islets lie clo.se to the eastern shore,
and are connected with it at low water. A tongue of sand, which uncovers
at low water, extends 3 cables south-west of Spit point.

Reef island i^ ^ small island lying on the western shore abreast
Spit point. The summit of this island lies N.VV. distant 2 J miles from
Tree bluff ; and W.S.W. distant 1^ miles from Spit point.

Two small bays, with sandy beaches, lie under Keef island, in which a
boat may find shelter. A reef with rocks awash at high water, and sunken
rocks, extends 2 cables south-ea,st of Reef island.

from mid-channel between Reef island and Spit point, the canal runs
North, for about 13 miles, with an average width of one mile. The eastern

They had, they stated, never before met white men at the head of Portland canal,
nor heard of any visiting it. Their canoes were manipulated with marvellous dexterity.
When shooting the rapids, one man stood in the bow, and another ia the stern, each
armed with a long pole carried on opposite sides of the canoe. When nearing a boulder
over which the torrent boiled, and when destruction seemed imminent, the man in the
bow placed his pole in the ground, the current caught the canoe, reversing her end
for end, clear of tho danger.

* Halibut weighing three hundredweight are caught off Dogfish bay. The Indians
u8e.for this purpose a large wooden hook, not unlike an anchor with one arm. The
line is made of gut, and the bait is usually clam or other shell fish. The fish arc caught
in depths of 100 fathoms, and upwards.

120

PORTLAND CANAL.

[chap. ti.

shore of this reach is bold and unbroken, but on the western shore lie two
small bays.

Leading point is a high, bold point, on the western shore, lying
north, 2^ miles from Reef island.

Dickens point, is on the eastern shore, distant 4 miles from Spit
point, with a considerable curve to the eastward in the coast between them.

A small black rook, 8 feet above high water, lies close south of Dickens
point. A ledge of rocks which uncover, extends 2 cables from Dickens
point.

Sandfly bay, situated on the western shore, abreast Dickens point,' is

5 cables wide, and three-quarters of a mile deep in u north-west direction ;
terminating in a swamp with streams in the north-west and north-east
corners. At the north point of the bay, two small islets lie close to the
shore. .

Sandfly bay is nearly occ jpied at low water by a sand-flat, with deep
water close to, and is thereforo useless as an anchorage.

Stopford point is bold and conspicuous, and lies on the eastern
shore, 3^ miles from Dickens point.

HALIBUT BAY '>» the western shore, 4 miles from Sandfly bay,
is 5 cables wide at its entrance, and extends back 1^ miles in a N.W. by W.
direction. There is an extensive swamp at its head, through which three
large streams flow. Off the south point of this bay lie '- cluster of small
black rocky islets.

AnctLOrage, the only known anchorage in Portland canal, will
be found in Halibut bay, in mid-channel, 3 cables within the entrance, in

6 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom.

Cross islet is a small wooded islet, connected at low water with the
shore, lying close northward of Halibut bay. A rude wooden cross was
found on this islet, placed there at some remote period, apparently to mark
a grave. , .

Logan point lies on the eastern shore, 3J miles from Stopford point.
A conspicuous saddle-shaped mountain, 4,800 feet high, lies 3 miles south-
east of Logan point.

Camp point lies on the western shore, and is the turning point of
the northern arm, which abreast of that point changes in direction from
North to W.N.W. The point is wooded, bold, and precipitous.

CHAP. VI.]

HALIBUT BAY. — TOMBSTONE BAY.

121

Centre island, situated nearly iu mid-channel, abreast Camp poinl, :c
400 yards long in a north and south dirnction, with some stunted brush
growing upon it.

A ledge of rocks awash, and sunken rocks, extend 2 cables north-
ward of C'entre island. The water is deep on either side of the island,
beyond tho distance of 2 cables from it. The channel westward of Centre
island is r&!ommeaded.

Barclay valley lies on the eastern shore, abreast Centre island ; a
large stream flows through the valley ; and the neck of land separating
Portland canal and Salmon cove (Observatory inlet) is here about 4 miles
across.

Landslip point lies on the eastern shcire, 2 miles northward of
Centre island. Three conspicuous landslips are seen on the mountains
south of Landslip point.

Bluff point terminates in a high bold cliff, and lies on the eastern
shore, 2 miles t'rom Landslip point. The channel abreast Bluff point is
one mile wide.

Breezy point, on the western 6h->re, 3.^ miles from Camp point, is
conspicuous, and the land recedes to the southward between Camp and
Breezy points.

Tombstone bay lies on the western shore, N.W. by N. distant
3 miles from Breezy point. At its entrance, this bay is 3 cables wide, and
takes a southerly direction, narrowing rapidly until it terminates at one
mile within the entrance at the mouth of a river.

An extensive well-wooded valley Mes rt the head of the bay ; and on the
north side of the valley, a remarkaole mountain, with a snow-clad summit of
dome shape rise? *^^ the height of 6,500 feet.* Trout are plentiful in the
river flowing into this bay. Berries are found in abundance, especially
salmon berries and the \vild raspberry.

Maple point lies on the eastern shore, Smiles from Bluff point.
Maple trees grow upon this point, and when in leaf render it conspicuous.
Immediately northward of Maple point lies u bay, with a large stream
flowing into it, fronted by a sand-flat.

Swamp point, a low, marshy, wooded point, through which a river
flows, lies N.W. ^ W. distant 3 miles from Maple point. A sandspit
extends 5 cables to the southward of Swamp point.

* Au Indian Hettlement once existed ou the Hhore^ of this buy. The inhabitunts had,
apparentl} , been overtaken by an epidomic, as many skeletons were seen lying on the
ground, with boxes and various chattels near them. A rude sort of tombstone had, been
erocted near one of the skeletous.

122

PORTLAND CANAL.

[oHAP. vr.

Above Swamp point, the channel takes a general direction of N.W. ^ W.,
to abreast of White point.

Pirie point, situated N.W. by W., 2 miles from Swamp point, is high,
bold, and conspicuous. A sandpit extends 2 cables from the eastern
shore mit. -way between Swamp and Pirie points.

White point lies on the eastern shore, 4 miles from Pirie point.

I'rom abreast White point the channel takes a general direction of
N.N.W. ^ W. for 7 mil.rf, to iVbreast of Blue point.

Tui'n point lies on the western shore, 1^ miles from Tombstone bay.
This point is high, bold, and conspicuous. Steep poi' t on the western
shore, 6 xniles from Turn point, is bold and steep-to. Two large streams
flow into the sea, mid-way bet'.veen Turn and Steep points.

Foggy point lies on the western shore, N.W. ^ W., distant 6 miles
from Steep point. The coast between Steep and JFoggy points trends con-
siderably to the southward in a deep curve. At 2^ miles soutliward cl
Fcggy point an extensive valley lies in a southerly direction, between
mountains from 3,500 and 4,000 feet high. The valley is thickly wooded,
and through it a large stream flows.

Bay islet lies on the eastern shore abreast of Foggy point. This
islet is small and wooded, and lies one cable off" a point which divides
two sandy bays, being connected with the point at low water.

Green islets are two small, wooded islets, on the eastern shore ; distant
2 miles from Bay islet. Clos« northward of these islets there is a con-
siderable tract of comparatively low land, thickly wooded, through which a
large stream flov/s.

Slab point terminates in high, smooth, slate-coloured cliff, and lies on
the western shore, 2 miles from Foggy point.

Blue point li-s on the eastern shore, 5^ miles from Green islet ; and
1| miles from Cliff point (on the western shore). Blue point terminates in
high, bold clifls, of purple blue colour, and basaltic formation. Close south
of the point, an extensive wooded valley extends to the north-eastward.
Two large streams flow through the valley. A sandspit extends off" their
mouths to the distance of 2 cables.

CliflE* point terminates in high white cliffs, and is steep-to. From
mid-chanuel between Blue and Cliff points, the inlet runs in a N.W. direction
for 2^ miles, N.N.W. ^ W. 3 miles, thence in a general northerly direction
to its termination.

Verdure point lies N.W, by N., distant 4 miles from Cliff puint.

VI.

CHAP. VI.]

PIRIE POINT. — SALMON RIVER.

12"

Ira

The Maple trees growing upon this point, when in leaf, render it con-
spicuous. Mid-way between Cliff and Verdure points, there is an extensive
wooded valley, through which a large stream flows in a south-westerly
direction. Close northward of Verdure point lies a bay, with a conspicuous
sandy beach at its head.

Landslip point lies X.W. by N., distant one mile from Verdure point ;
and is conspicuous by the high landslip over it.

Rouud point is +he turning point, on the eastern shore, into the
northern and last reach of Portland canal. With the exception of a small
bay, which dries throughout at low water, the eastern shore northward of
Blue point, for 6 miles, is high, bold, and almost iuaccessille. The northern
extreme of Round point lies 6 miles from Blue point.

Sesl rocks* on the western shore, at the entrance of the north reach of
the canal, is of small extent, and lies 2 cables from the western shore.
The highest rock Is 6 feet above high water. Between Verdure point, and
the point off v/hich Seal rocLs lie, the coast carves considerably to the
westward. At one mile to the southward of the Intter point, an extensive
wooded valley takes a westerly direction, between high mountains, and a
large stream flows through it.

Marmot river on the eastern shore, 2| miles from the mouth of Lear river,
flows through an extensive valley which lies in an easterly urection. A
sandspit extends 3 cables off the mouth of Marmot river, and is steep-to.
At the head of the valley, a moimtain range with three conspicuous peaks,
4,000 to 5,000 feet high, lies in a north-west and south-east direction.

B^lmOU river lics^ on the western shore, 1^ miles from Bear river,
uM is separated from thai river by n range of bare mountains, 4,000 to
. .>~"L> leet high (Reverdy Johnson mountains). It is a stream of con-
bivJ'3r Me size, and the valley through which it flows is half-a-milc wide
ai ts r\outh, the river then runs in a north-westerly direction, widening
to one and 2 miles, and is flanked by high mountains. The nortli shore,
near the entrance of the valley, is the hcadqun .tors (1868), during the
Ashing season, of a party of Indians (a^>|)arently jf the Nass tribe).

Bear river flows tlirongh an extonsl.-e wooded flat, at the head of
the Portland canal, and divides UkSX its mouth, into several streams. During
the summer months, when the snow is melting, a considerable body of
water passes out of Bear river. The valley through which this river flows
xt .ods 10 miles in a northerly direction from the mouth of Bear river,
and iu thickly wooded. Flanked by mountains 4,800 feet high, (Glad-
stone mountains,) it terminates at the foot of a range lying in an east and

'*' Many fur seals were seen upou this cluster, (August 1868.)

124

PORTLAND CANAL.

[OHAP. Tl.

west direction (Disraeli mountains). Tl . Bear and Salmoa rivers have &
mud flat extending across their mov.ths, rendering communication, even by
canoes, difficult at low water. Commencing at about 3 cables south of
Salmon river valley, this deposit of mud extends across the inlet in a
north-easterly direction, passing over a mile from the mouth of Bear river-
The edge of the bank is steep, breaking down almost suddenly to no
bottom at 40 fathoms.

Anchorage was unsuccessfully searched for off the above-mentioned
delta of the Salmon and Bear rivers. The depth of 24 fathoms was found
alongside the edge of the mud at low water ; and at the distance of 50 yards
from it no bottom cou' T I e obtained at 40 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high M '11 and change, at the head of Portland cand

at Ih. 30m. ; springs rise frc 23 to 27 feet, and occasionally 30 feet. In
August 1868 it was observed that the night tides rose considerably higher
than the day tides. ' >

OBSERVATION SPOT, at the wooded high-water mark, of the
poi^t near the centre of the mouth of Bear river, was found by observations,
ta,ken in August 1868, to be situated in latitude 55° 56' 3" N., longitude
130° 3' 27" W., depending on Shell island, Beaver harbour (fort Rupert),
being in longitude l?,r 25' 7" W.

125

CHAPTER VII.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

Variation 26° Easterly in 1883.

GENERAL REMARKS. — Queen Charlotte islands, consisting
of three principal islands, may be regarded as a partly submerged mountain
range, a line drawn from the southern extremity of the islands to their
north-western point, representing its axis, and several smaller islands, form-
ing a compact archipelago, situated between latitude 51° 50' and 54° 15' N.,
and longitude 130° 54' and 133° 10' W.*

The channels between the main islands are named Houston Stewart and
Skidegate, the former or southern channel separating Prevost and Moresby
islands ; and the latter, or northern, Moresby and Graham islands.

Prevost island, the southernmost, has a length north and south of
about 12^ miles, with a breadth of 8^ miles. The land gradually rises
northward from cape St. James till near Houston Stewart channel, where it
has in places a probable elevation of 2,000 feet, and which, if the weather
is clear, will be the first land seen in approaching Queen Charlotte islands
from the southward. The east coast of Prevost island is bjld, and in many
]>laces formed by a cliff facing the sea. This part of the coast, between
cape St. James and East point, a distance of 12 miles, is indented by two
bays or inlets, the southern apparently inconsiderable, while Luxana
bay, the northern, is probably 3 or 4 nnles in depth. From East point the
shore runs north-westward 6 or 7 miles to Moore head, the south-east
entrance point of Houston Stewart channel. The siiore is much broken,
being penetrated by inlets which run back among the high hills. Several
small islands lie off it, one of which is bold, densely tree clad, and has a
height of 150 feet. The western side of Prevost island, between cape
St. James and the western entrance of Houston Stewart channel, for about
12 miles is apparently bold, but it is less known than the opposite side.
The land near CJipe St. James is not as thickly wooded as that to the
northward.

CAPE ST. JAMES, so named by Captain Dixon in 1787, who
rouucied the cape on St. James' day in the Queen Charlotte. The cape

♦ See Adminilty charts, Queen Clmrlottc islands, No. 2,430 i scale, »i = ()• 13 of an
inch. Also, Ciipe Caution to Tort Simpson, No. 1,923 a and b ; scale, m — 0*25 of iin
inch.

126

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. vn.

appears to be the southern extremity of an island one mile in diameter, the
narrow channel separating it from Prevost island running W.S.W. and
E.N.E. The southern point of cape St. James i&> a vertical cliff about the
same height as the larger of the islets lying off it.*

Eerouart islets received their name from La Perouse, and consist
of a chain of rocky islets and rocks which run off from cape St. James
3^ miles in a south-easterly direction, corresponding with that of the
mountain axis of the group. A sunken ledge is reported to extend 1^ miles
further in the same direction. As seen at a distance of some miles to the
north-east, Kerouart islets appear to form three groups, the first lying
close to cape St. James, consisting of two large rocks, the second of one
large and several smaller rocks, and the third and furthest southward of
two or three rocks of some size and a number of lesser ones. These islets
are remarkable, standing boldly up with rounded tops, and vertical cliffs on
all sides, the smaller rocks having the same pillar-like form so frequently
found where a rocky coast is exposed to the full sweep of a great ocean.
They serve as secure breeding places for innumerable gulls, puffins, and
other sea birds.

With cape St. James bearing W. by S. J S. about 3^ miles, and the
northernmost rock above water S.W. ^ S. there is a depth of 90 fathoms.
Precaution is necessary when approaching this part of the coast.

HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL t trends from Moore
head West 2^ miles to Hornby point, thence S.W. 3 miles to the entrance
from the Pacific ocean. Opposite the bend formed by Hornby point is
Hose harbour. Louscoone, at the west entrance of the channel and just
within Anthony island, is said to be a good harbour similar to Rose harbour.
The country round this locality is mountainous, generally rising steeply
from the shore, and thickly wooded ; the trees are stunted and show much
dead wood ; they grasp the almost naked rock. There is no arable land,
and the little soil is poor. Sea otters are numerous, the fur of which fetches
very high prices.

Entering from the Eastward.— This entrance may be known
by its bold south point and the round thickly wooded islet. At about 4
miles from the entrance there are 90 fathoms water, and the depth gradu-
ally shoals to 20 fathoms to within a mile of it ; from this distance off, the

* Captain G. U. Richards, H.M. surveying vessel Hecate, in his journal, September,
1862, remarks that "the cape slopes gradually from a summit 1,000 feet high to the sea,
" low at its extreme, with the Kerouart islets lyiug otf it, two apparently detached
" hummock islets, about 180 feet high ; outside these again lie three others, nearly 100
" feet high, bare and whitish ; the western side of the cape is also whitish,"

f See Admiralty plans of ports iu Queen Charlotte islands, No. 2,168.

CHAP. VI r.]

HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL.

127

soundings are very irregular, varying from 30 to 7 fathoms over a series of
ridges or bars of rock, sand, shell, and mud. In the entrance, which is
about a mile wide, between Moore head and Langford point there are 20
fathoms water, with a rocky bottom.

Within Forsyth point, at one mile westward of Langford point on the
northern side, is a snug bay, bordered by a sandy beach, in which, at
about two-thirds of a mile from Forsyth point, and at one-third of a mile
from the beach is a secure and convenient anchorage in 16 fathoms. At a
quarter of a milo inside Forsyth point and i: little to the northward of the
line of directioi. .>f the channel is a rocky pavch with kelp on it, and which
dries at low-water springs ; a vessel, therefore, should not haul to the
northward too soon after entering. In the north-west part of the bay is
Kaspberry cove, into which a stream of water flows.

On the southern side of the channel are some small wooded islands,
here and there fringed with outlying patches of kelp, which latter should
always be avoided. Trevan rock, 1^ miles W.S.W. from Forsyth point,
lying nearly mid-channel, and contracting the passage on its northern side
to rather less than half a mile ; patches of kelp and Ellen island, the
largest of the islands before mentioned reduces the channel on the southern
side of it to about a cable in width. Close to the north side of Trevan
rock the depth is 7 fathoms.

There is a good anchorage to the eastward of Ellen island,* which was
used by H.M.S. Alert in 1858, in a bay formed by the island and a rocky
patch which covers at half tide, at nearly half a mile to the eastward of
the island. The anchorage is in 14 fathoms, mud, and the tide is not felt.

Rose Harbour. — This secure and capacious harbour forms the
northern arm of Houston Stewart channel. It runs up in a northerly
direction between Catherine point on the west and Rose island on the
east, for 3 miles from its junction with the channel, and is a continuation in
nearly a straight line with the western portion of it. For the first 2 miles
the average breadth of the harbour is three-quarters of a mile ; the
western shore rises boldly with deep water close-to ; the eastern shore,
although high, has kelp along it, with shoal water. The harbour then
contracts to half a mile, between two low points forming its head. Beyond
these points is a basin, about 2 miles in circumference, filled with rocks
and woody islets, having on its western side Sedmond river, a small stream
abounding in the season with geese and ducks. The land on its north and
west sides is high and mountainous, whilst that on its eastern side is low.
This basin is separated from South cove i'l Carpenter bay by a narrow
neck of low wooded land.

* Navigating Lieutecant A. F. Boxer.

128

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[CIIAP. VII.

Danger Rocks. — About 3 miles to the northward of the eastern
entrance to Houston Stewart channel, and at about 2 miles oft' the low
and densely wooded point between the east entrance of Houston Stewart
channel and Carpenter bay, is a ledge of rocks, lying a little above water ;
the sea breaks violently over them, and for a considerable distance around ;
other rocks encircle these', but they are under water. Approaching
Houston Stewart channel from the northward, these rocks should be given
a wide berth. On the north side of the low wooded point is a little cove
full of kelp and protected by rocks, with an Indian house in it, which
appears to be occupied at times.

Entering from Westward. — The southern arm of Houston
Stewart channel is about 3 miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wide,
with several small islands at its southern end or entrance from the
Pacific. The shores of both sides are bold and densely wooded. A vessel
coming from the southward and wishing to go in by this entrance, when
abreast cape St. James, should close the land to 1^ miles, and after coasting it
for about 12 miles, the entrance will open out. Two remarkable white
stripes down the mountains, or 7 miles to the north-westward, are excellent
landmarks. After passing at a convenient distance to the southward of the
lai'gest and outer island at the entrance, named Anthony island, which is
200 feet high, with white cliffs (off the southern end of which an extensive
ledge of rocks projects in a south-west direction), the channel will show
itself. Flat rock, which is bare and resembling a haystack, 50 feet high, lies
much nearer the western than the eastern side, and which should be kept
on the port hand, will be a good guide.* There is an Indian village known
as Nin-stints, of the Shangoi tribe, on the inner side of Anthony island ;
the natives are very wild, and persons visiting or trailing with them should
be on their guard.

Observation Spot.— S'ee foot-note f.

MORESBY ISLAND, the centre of the three principal islands,
is 72 miles long, but the explorations have resulted by the tracings out of
the chanuv. ■'' on its east coast in leaving it a mere skeleton, in places vary-
ing from only 1^ to 2 miles in breadth. The highest and most rugged
part of the island is probably in about latitude 52" 30', where many peaks
bear patches of perennial snow, and rise to altitudes surpassing 5,000 feet.
Also on Louise island, and about the head of Cunishewa, the land is very
rugged, with many summits exceeding 3,000 and 4,000 feet.

* H.M.S. Hecate, September 1862, passed between Flat rock ami (cordon islets, and
anchored in Raspberry cove, on the north shore, in 16 fathoms.

t Tbe observation spot in Raspberry cove (on the point just cast of the stream) was
determined by Captain G. H. Richards, 11 .M. surveying ship Hecate, in 1862, to be in
lat. 52° 9' 22" N., long. 131° 4' 16" W., depending upon Shell island, Beaver harbour,
Vancouver island, being in 127° 25' 7" W.

cnAP.vii.] CARPENTER BAY. — SKINCUTTLE INLET.

129

CARPENTER BAY, the southernmost bay on the east side of
Moresby island. Between Iron point on its north-western, and Islet point
on its south-eastern side, it is a little over 2 miles wide, and runs westward
about 5 miles. On its south side are two small bays, the western of which,
South cove, approaching near to the head of Rose harbour. In its head
is good anchorage for a small vessel in from 6 to 10 fathoms. It is not
quite land-locked, but sheltered from the only direction otherwise ex<
posed by a little rocky reef which runs out from its east side.

Carpenter bay ends westward in a narrow arm, which receives two
streams of some size. It resembles the head of Rose harbour in being
filled with little rocky islands and rocks, making it unsafe for even a small
craft. The general character of the country surrounding the bay is like
that of Houston Stewart channel. In June there were many seals in the
bay.

Collison bay, situated between Carpenter bay and Skincuttle inlet,
is about 1 J miles wide between Bluff point, its south-east point of entrance,
and the north-west point, and has a probable depth of 2 miles. It runs up
into a narrow arm, which has not been examined. Several small islands
and rocks lie in its mouth, and it does not appear to be serviceable as a
harbour.

Gull rock, 10 feet in height, bears N.E. by E. J E. li miles from
Deluge point, and is three-quartcis of a mile off Moresby island, between
Collison bay and Skincuttle inlet. Inner Low rock lies S.S.E. from Gull
rock, and midway between it and the shore.

SKINCUTTLE INLET is 5^ miles deep in a south-west direct
tion, with a width of 4 miles between Deluge point on the south and Granite
point on the north side of its entrance. The north side of the inlet is
formed by Burnuby island, and from the north-west angle Burnaby strait
runs northward to Juan Perez sound, and separates Burnaby island from
the east shore of Moresby island. The shores of Skincuttle inlet resemble
those of other parts of the islands already described. Near the north-west
angle of the inlet the mountains rise steeply to a height of 3,000 feet or
more.

The entrance to Skincuttle inlet is south of a chain of islands, called the
Copper islands,* lying E.N.E. and W.S.W. It is 1^ miles wide, but should
be used with caution as there is reason to believe that a rock, sometimes

* A small shaft has been sunk and a few openings made in connexion with an attempt
at copper mining. There is no true vein here, but magnetic iron ore, with a little copper
pyrites.

See Admiralty plans, Forts in Queen Charlotte islands, No. 2, .C8.

Q901C. I

130

QUEEN CUARLOTIE ISLANDS.

[chap. VII.

bare, lies in it. The passage to the north of the Copper islands is con-
tracted, and with one or more rocks in its narrowest part.

South, side. — The first opening on the soutli side of the inlet is
Harriet harbour. It is 2 miles westward of the south entrance point
(Deluge point) of Skincuttle inlet, and runs southward one mile. It
should be entered by the channel on the west side of Harriet island, which
lies at its mouth. A vessel should be kept nearer the west side of the
channel (as several little rocks covered at high water lie along Harriet
island), and run some distance beyond the inner end of the island before
anchoring, to avoid the shoal bank which lies off its point. The depth
is about 8 fathoms, with good holding ground, and the harbour is well
sheltered from most directions, though subject to heavy squalls from the
valley at its head when a southerly gale is blowing.*

At 1^ miles west of Harriet harbour is Huston bay. This is a wide
inlet which runs south-eastward about 4 miles, and then turns to the west,
in which direction its extremity was not visited, but it approaches the
western side of Moresby island to within about I^ miles.

Western end. — At the western end of Skincuttle inlet are three
indentations of the coast, of which the southern is George harbour. The
northern, lying at the entrance of Burnaby strait is Tangle cove. It is a
well sheltered anchorage for a small vessel, but a shoal, the extent of which
is unknown, lies oS its mouth. The entrance is between a small island at
its south side, and two other little islets to the north. Id it lies a rock
which uncovers at low water. The mountains at the head of Tangle cove
are steep, and probably reach 3,000 feet in height ; part of their upper
slopes are bare of trees, but apparently covered with moss, where not
composed of rock.

North, side. — On the south shore of Burnaby island is a bay, with
several small islands across the mouth of it, which may be a good harbour,
but it has not been examined. Further east, in the vicinity of an
abandoned copper mine, are Blue Jay and Kingfisher coves.

Granite point is a rather remarkable whitish crag, separated from
the main shore by a narrow neck of low land.

The BolkUS islands form a chain about 2 miles long, lying east
and west in the centre of Skincuttle inlet. They are five in number, with
many small rocks and reefs ; the land is low, and on the western and largest
of the islands the soil appears to be good, though now covered with dense
forest.

* H.M.S. Hecate, September 1862, ancbored in Skincuttle, in 9^ fathoms at low
water, with east side of Harriet island bearing S. 27° E., right extreme of Flat islands
N. 39'^ £., and Green islet N. 89° E.

cnAp.vn.] BURNABY STRAIT. — SKAAT HARBOUR.

131

BURNABY STRAIT is 9 miles in length between Skincuttle
inlet and Juan Perez sound, the southern portion for a distance of about
4 miles being narrow, but gaining at the northern end an average width
of 1^ miles. All parts of Buruaby strait must be navigated with great
caution as there are many rocks, and a large portion of them are covered at
high water.

Dolomite narrows, at 2^ miles north of Skincuttle inlet. The
strait here is not more than a quarter of a mile wide, the channel is
crooked, and obstructed by rocks and shoals, having from 6 to 8 feet at low
tide. The tides, however, are not strong, but it cannot be recommended as
a passage for any craft larger than a boat or canoe. Just south of Dolomite
narrows, from the west side of the strait, opens Bag harbour, expanding
within to a basin nearly a mile in diameter.

Tho Twins. — Nearly abreast of' Dolomite narrows, on Burnaby
island are two conspicuous mountains estimated at 1,500 feet in height.
Island bay, at l^ miles North of the narrows, runs westward, and is

2 miles deep. It is named from the number of small islands in it, about
17, and is probably too rocky for a safe harbour.

Gkaat harbour is a bay 2J miles wide, with a depth of about

3 milCo. In its mouth lies Wunderer island and several smaller ones. The
harbour turns into a narrow inlet in its upper part, and terminates among
high mountains forming a portion of the axial chain of the islands. Skaat
harbour has not been sounded or carefully examined, but from the
character of its shores would be likely to afford good anchorage, especially
westward of Wanderer island, and if so, it is the best for large vessels in
this vicinity. The harbour will probably be found deepest on the
Wanderer island side, as there is an extensive field of kelp off the opposite
shore. All Alone stone and Monument rock form good marks to the
northern entrance of Burnaby strait, near which lies the mouth of the
harbour. The entrance to Skaat harbour on the southern side of
Wanderer island is very narrow. At the angle formed between ';, u.. the
shore of Burnaby strait are two small coves affording anchorage for j. small
vessel, but with wide tidal flats at their head, which a short distance
beyond low-water mark fall away rapidly into deep water.

Limestone rock is a dangerous reef, bare only at low water, but
not extensive, tliough a second rock, also only dry at low water, lies a
short distance south-east of it. The eastern point of Wanderer island, in
line with that of Centre island, leads over Limestone rock, a mile to the
southward of the latter. • _

Huxley island, at the northern enti'ance of Burnaby strait, is
nearly 2 miles long north and south, and about I^ miles broad ; it is bold

I 2

132

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[aiAP. vu.

and remarkable, rising rnpicUy from the beach to a height exceeding 1,000
feet. Abreast the nortli-west point of the island, in mid channel, a cast of
70 fathoms was obtained, with a fine sandy bottom. At 4 miles North of
Dolomite narrows, the passage between Huxley island and the north-west
end of Burnaby island leads into Burnaby strait.

Burnaby island. — The north shore of Burnaby island, 5f miles in
length N.E. and S.W., is nearly straight on the whole, though with a few
shallow bays, one of which is called Section cove.

Alder island lies about the centre of this stretch of coast ; it is about
half a mile in diameter, nearly flat, with probably a good anchorage behind
it, which should be approached frono the north, as Saw reef runs out from
the shore of Burnaby island to the eastward, and this part of the coast is
broken and rocky, with large fields of kelp extending oS* it. The hills on
the north side of Burnaby island are estimated at 300 to 500 feet in
height.

Scudder point. — From Scudder point, the north-east point of
Burnaby island, the east side of the island trends southward, allowing the
outer of the Copper islands to be seen. A considerable width of low land
stretches back from Scudder point, covered with an open growth of large
but gnarled spruces. Little beaches of coarse gravel fill the spaces between
the low shattered rock masses, apparently caused by the action of a heavy
surf. In a cove on the north side is a strongly built but abandoned Indian
house. North of Granite point, is a deep bay with a high island lying in
the mouth of it.

JUAN PEREZ SOUND has at its entrance between the
north of Burnaby island and Ramsay island, a width of 8 miles. The
sound runs westward, giving oS a number of smaller inlets and bays, and
is continued in a more northerly direction by Darwin sound, by which it
communicates with the upper ends of the long inlets which run westward
from Laskeek bay. From the centre of a line joining the outer entrance
points to the southern entrance of Darwin sound, Juan Perez sound is 13^
miles in length. On its south-western side are Werner bay, Hutton inlet,
and De la Beche inlet. These terminate in narrow channels or fiords,
which run up among the axial mountains of Moresby island, and which
have not been examined to their heads. From Werner bay two small
inlets branch. Hutton inlet appears to be about 3 miles long ; D.e la
Beche nearly 6 miles, with a low valley, hemmed in by hills on either side,
running north-westward from its extremity. None of these openingei
seem to be well adapted for harbours, as the shores are bold and rocky,
seldom showing beaches, and the water to all appearances too deep for
anchorage.

pni.

CHAP VTI.]

JUAN PEREZ SOUND.

138

of
of

BiSChoff islands, lying in the north-west part of Juan Perez sound,
off the south side of Lyell island, are low, but densely wooded. There is
sheltered anchorage for small craft between the two larger islands, but it
must be entered from the westward, and with much caution, owing to the
number of rocks and sunken reefs which surround it.

Sedgwick bay, about 3 miles deep, iti the south shore of Lyell
island, is too much exposed for a harbour, as southerly wiuds draw directly
up Juan Perez sound.

Bamsay, Murchison, and Faraday islands are the

largest of a group of islands forming the north-east side of Juan Perez
sound.

Eamsay island is 2| miles in length east and west ; bold hills rise in the
centre of the island, which is densely wooded. Its south shore is high,
with some rocky clifis ; two small islets lie off the north-ea£t side, which is
rugged and composed of solid rock. The north-west shore has several
coves, but none suited for anchorage. Murcbison island is 2^ miles long ;
and Faraday island nearly 2 miles ; both are low.

Between Bamsay and Murchison islauds is a little group composed of
Hot Spring, House, and a few smaller islets and rocks. On ihe south side
of Hot Spring island is the spring from which it has its name. Its situation
is easily recognised by a patch of green mossy sward which can be seen
from a considerable distance ; steam also generally hovers over it. The
temperature is so high that the hand can scarcely bear it with comfort.
The water has a slight smell of sulphuretted hydrogen, and a barely per-
ceptible saline taste. The Indians bathe in a natural pool in which the
waters of one of the streams collect.

Between Hot Spring and House islands is a good anchorage for small
craft, sheltered on all sides but the north.

Tar islands. — Running northward from the end of Murchison
island is a chain of small islands about 4 miles long named the Tar islands,
as the Indians report that on one of them bituminous matter is found,
ooiring out among the stones on the boach. Agglomerate island, the
southernmost has apparently been burnt over, and is covered with standing
dead trees. These islands are only approximately placed ou the chart.
Outside of them lies a single low island with u few trees on it, named Tuft
island.

Rocks dry at low water lie between Faraday and Murchison islands,
aud there are several small rocky islets and low-water rocks in the vicinity
of Hot Spring and House islands.

Entering Juan Perez sound. — Vessels entering the sound had
better do so to the southward of Ranii^ay island, till the narrower channels

134

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. VII.

have been surveyed. No bottom was reached with 94 fathoms of line in
the centre of the sound south of Ramsay island, nor at about a mile south-
east of the extre. "ty of BischoflE islands. The water is apparently deep
throughout, but it has not been soundr.d.

LITELL ISLAND is about 15 miles 'n diameter east and west, and
9 miles north and south. It is separated from Moresby island by Darwin
sound. The island is composed of hilly land, generally rising at once from
the shores to heights of 600 to 900 feet, and attaining towards the cei^tre of
the island a height probably exceeding 1,000 feet. It is densely wooded
and on the low land has some fine *'mber. The east coast has not been
surveyed. A-tli inlet, on the north side of Lyell island, has not been
examined. It is about 3 miles deep, with two main arms, and does not
appear to be a good harbour.

Halibut bank. — About 3 to 4 miles E.N.E. from the north-east
point of Lyell island is Halibut bank, with 23 fathoms water on it. Tliis i.
probably the same bank II.M.S. Alert got 37 fathoms on.

DARWIN SOUND from its southern entrance to White point is
J 2 miles in length north-west uad south-east. It is irregular in '.vidth, but
is a *ine navigable channel. In the south entrance no bottom Avas found at
94 fathoms. In entering from the southward, Shuttle island looks neai'ly
rount The channel on its eastern side should be follcwed, as tfj seems to
be quite free from impediments. Abreast the north end of Shuttle island
in this channel a cast of 18 fathoms was obtained. A mile beyond this
point, and in mid-channel, is a i vv rock which is not readily seen, with a
second bare only at low water a sihort distance to the noilh of it.

Tid.68. — The flood sets up Darwin sound from the southward into the
various inlets, and then eastward to the open sea again by Richardson
and Logan inlets. The ebb in like manner draws through from end to end
in the opposite direction. The tidal stream runs at the »'ato of 2 knots at
tue strongest.

Bigsby inlet. — The south-west side of Darwin sound for 5 miles
from the south entrance is rocky and broken, with sevinal coves and
inlets. Bigsby inlet then runs in 2^ miles in a westerly direction. It i«i a
gloomy chasjr, scarcely half a mile in Avidth, and surrounded by momitains
probably as high as any in the islands. These rise steeply IVom the water,
sometimes attaining in the first instance a height of 3,O00 feet, and n'o in
places nearly perpendicular, but are generally well wooded. Furtlier back,
especially to the southward and westward, massive summits of bare granite
rise to a height of 4,000 to 5,000 feet with their gorges filled with drifted
snow fields. The inlet is almost void of anything like a beach.

III.

CHAP. TH.]

ECHO HAEBOUR. — ORESCENT INLET.

135

lin

lof

Shuttlo island, though low, is rocky. The chanoel to the west of
it is probably deep et mgh for vessels of any class, but should not be used
until surveyed. There is a rock, covered at hJeh water, on the west side of
its northern entrance.

Echo harbour. — At l^ miles northward of Shuttle island, and
opposite the inner end of Richardson inlet, is Echo harbour. The passage
into the harbour runs southward about a mile, and is surrounded by high
hills which towards it head rise to rugged mountains. The outer part of
the entrance has a depth of 10 fathoms in it, the sides then approach,
leaving a channel scarcely 300 yards wide between abrupt rocky shores. In
the harbour proper the depth is everywhere about 15 fathoms, decreasing
gradually toward the head for a short distance, and then running steeply up
to a flat which is partly dry at low water, and above high -water mark forms
a narrow grassy beach. The bottom is soft mud, and excellent holding
ground, A very narrow passage leads westward from the bottom of the
harbour in!;o a :=3cluded basin, scarcely a quarter of a mile in diameter,
which, with the exception of a channel in the middle, is nearly dry at low
water. Into its head flow5 a large brook, coming from the mountains to
the outh-westward.

Elun-Kwoi bay. — At 2 n-iiles west of the entrance to Echo
ha'-bour, the shore line falls back in Klun-Kwoi bay. The bay runs up in
several arms, which have not been carefully examined, among the bases
of rugged snow clad mountains, which rise steeply from the shores, or at
the sides of the valleys, by which the head? of the inlets are continued
inland. The highest peaks are probably 5,000 feet or more in altitude.
The tnountains of Moresby island appear to culminate here, and are not
such a prominent feature further southward. To this part of the range
Perez'.i nrinie of Sio ••a de San Christoval may be applied with the greatest
propriety. The head of the bay approaches the southern arm of Tasoo
harbour on the western side of Moresby islan'' to within a couple of
raii-^^.

CrOSCent inlet >nay be considered at forming the extension of
Darwin sound northward. It turns gradually through nearly half a circle,
from a north-west bearing to u ilirection nearly south-west, and is over
4 miles in length. It is a liorcl, with steep mountains and wooded sides,
but probably not so deep as must similar inlets, as there are stretches of
boAtih of some length. It is not iinown if the Indians have any trail across
to Tasoo harbour, which, if correc^tly placed, the distance across to it can-
not be great. Red top mountain is partly bare and about 3,000 feet high.
It is the most conspicuous peak in the vicinity, rising on the north side of
the inltt, at the angle of the beml.

136

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. VII.

LASEEEK BAIT i' the name given to the wide indentation of
the coast between the north-east extreme of Lyell island and Vertical
point, the south-east point of Louise island, bearing N.W. and S.E. from
each other, and 10 miles apart. From Laskeek bay four large inlets run
westward ; of these the two southern, which have been named Richardson
and Logan inlets, open into the head of Darwin sound.

The two northern inlets, Dana and Selwyn, communicate at their heads
with the head of Cumshewa inlet to the northward.

Richardson inlet is about 1 1 miles in length in a W.S.W. and
E.N.E. direction, with an average breadth of 1^ miles. Tiie southern side
is formed by Lyell island, A-tli inlet being just within the entrance and
Dog island about 5 miles within it. The northern side by Kun-ga,
Tan-oo, and Inner islands, from east to west. The inlet is straight, with
moderately bold shores. Kun-ga island is about 1,500 feet high, and
forms a good mark for the entrance ; there is a low rocky reef some
distance eastward of the outer point of Kun-ga, and a second off the south
shore of the same island. Near Dog island there are several small islets
and rocks ; and at about 3^ miles west of it, ou the south side of the inlet,
is a cove, where a small vessel can find a convenient anchorage, probably
the nearest stopping place to Laskeek village. The channels between
Kun-ga and Tan-oo and the latter and Inner islands are probably deep,
though the first should be navigated with caution, and caro taken to avoid
the east end of Tan-oo island, as several rocks and patches of kelp lie
off it.

Laskeek c* Klue Indian village is situated on the eastern cAtremity of
Tan-oo island. It is one of the most populous still remaining in the Queen
Charlotte islands.* The village, extending round a rocky point, faces two
ways, which prevents its being wholly seen from any one point of view. The
western end of Richardson inlet is contracted to a width of about a quarter
of a mile, and obstructed by a small island and sti^cral rocks,

Th'd Tide i'un£ through this passage with considerable strength, and
it is unsuited as an approach to Echo harbour, though the most direct way
in from the sea.

LogEn Inlet is about 7 miles in length, and nearly parallel to
Richardson inlet, with Flower Pot island, a small bold rock, covered with

♦ H.M.S. Alert anchored off this vilhige in 1 1 fatlionis, about 2 cables east of the
village. This anchorage is not a good one, being exposed to the N.W. and H.K. winds,
and is cfeep close-to. On anchoring, tlie houses should not he brotight (o the south of
west, as patches of rock stretch out two-thirds the distance across to the opposite shore
from Laskeek point, so tliat going or coming from the north the nast shore should be
kept well on board, being steep-to and quite safe. In the season, kelp marks the
patches, — Navigating-Licuteuant A, F. Boxer, 1860.

CHAi'. vii.] LOGAN INLET. — ROCK FISH HARBOUR.

137

trees, in its mouth. One other small island lies close to the shore on its
southern side, but it is otherwise free from obstructions, and constitutes a
fine navigable channel, and the best approach to Echo harbour.

Vessels should enter to the north of Flower Pot island, and keep In the
centre of the channel. Kun-ga island, as already mentioned, is high. Ti-tul
island, small and with low limestone cliffs, lies northward of it. Tan-oo
and Inner islands are also bold, rising to rounded hills of nearly uniform
heighth of about 800 feet. They have some good grti/elly beaches, though
generally rocky.

Timber. — in the inlets in the vicinity of Lyell islai;:' there is a con-
siderable quantity of fine timber, trees of great stature growing in all
moderately level and sheltered places.

Daua. inlet runs about S.W. by W. nearly 8 miles, with bold shores.
In the mouth of th'.* inlet is Helmet island, small, rocky, high, and of
rounded form. A second small island is near it, and from most points of
view the channel between the two is not seen. Care is necessary not to
mistake this island for Flower Pot island, in the mouth of Logan inlet. At
its western extremity Dana inlet turns northward, communicating by a
narrow but apparently deep passage with Selwyn inlet, and thus cutting off
Tal-un-kwan island from Moresby island.

Tal-Un-kwan island is 8 miles long, and 2 milcsi broad ; the hills art
rounded in form and from 800 to 900 feet hij-'

Selwyn inlet is nearly parallel to Dana ilet and about 10 miles in
length, and near its head, turning northward, runs in th.ii dire<t'on for a
like distance, forming at high water a passage for canoes into the upper
part of Cumshewa inlet, and separates Louise island from tlu' main shore
The passage is narrow and walled in at both sides by mountains which ri>c
very steeply from it. Entrance island is small and lies off the north
entrance point, with a low rock about a mile eastward of it. \A lii the
exception of a small rock about the middle of Tal-un-kwan islet and near
the south shore, the inlet appears to be free from dangers.

After giving the islets cff the north entrance a wide berth, a vessel shouli'
keep the north shore for a distance of 5 miles until the entrance ot i r^-
fieh harbour is reached.

Rock-fish harbour* is formed by a boot-shaped projection of low
land, at the angle of Selwyn inlet. The liarbour runs in a VV.S.VV. direc-
tion for about i^ mile.«, with a width of half u mile, and an average depth
of 16 fathoms. It is a secure and well sheltered anchorngc, more easily
entered than Cumshewa.

♦ See Admiralty plans of Selwyn inlet ; Ports in Queen Charlotte islnndfi, No. 2,168.

138

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[CIUP. VII.

Mr.

The head of the west branch of Selwyn inlet cannot be more than 9 or
10 miles from Mitchell or Gold harbour of the west coast. A low valley
runs some distance westward. At about 3 miles from the entrance of the
passage leading tc Cumshewa is the opening to an inlet about 3 miles deep
in a south-west direction, approaching to within 4^ 'niles of Mitchel*
harbour. These upper arms of Selwyn inlet are environed by high and
rugged mountains.

Reef and Low islands are situated in the outer part of Laskeek
bay. The southern and first named is steep along the water's edge, and a
reef runs off about half a mile to the southward of it. Their exact position
is not known.

LOUISE ISLAND is about 15 miles long cast and west, and
8 miles broad. The mountains are high, and doubtless the enow on them
lasts throughout the summer. From Selwyn inlet the east coast of the
island runs north-eastward 8 miles, with several small bays, fully open to
the sea, and generally rocky.

Vertical point, the northern entrance point of Laskeek bay, projects
at about half way along this stretch of .shore, and is remarkable from the
shape of the beds of grey limestone of which it is composed, aggregating
at least 400 feet in thickness. North of the point are the two small Lime-
stone islands, behind which the tide, running southward along the coast,
forms a race on the ebb.

Skedans bay, about 2 miles from the entrance to Cumshewa, is
strewn with sunken rocks and fully open, and should on no account be
entered by vessels. A large stream enters its head, which can be seen at
some distance inland forming a high waterfall, and which, according, to the
Indians, flows out of a lake of some size high among the mountains.
Skedans village forms a serai-circle round the IrmiI of a small bay or cove,
very rocky, which indents the south side of a narrow isthmus, connecting
two remarkable nipple-shaped hills with the main j-hore. This peninsula
is situated at the south entrance point to Cumshewa inlot, and between
it and the Skedans islands, the tide forms a race. The islands are low and
tree dad.*

CUMSHEWA INLETt is a long inlet running about 1.5 miles
westward, with a prolongation southward connecting it with Selwyn inlet.
It differs in the low character of the land on its northern shi c from the
inlets to the south, and marks the junction, on the east coast i I the islands,
of the moinitain region and flat country. There is more beach along the
shores than in the southern inlets, and wide tide flats, indicating shoaler

* ILM-S. AkrI wIk'H on licr jiassn^e from Iviigkcck village to Cumshewa inlet p'lsged
inside the islandH to tlic nortliward, — Navigating Lieutenant A. F. IJoxer.
t See Admiralty plans } Ports in Quceu Charlotte iBlanda, No. 2,168.

•HAP. VII.]

CUMSHEWA INLET.

139

water, which is not only found in the inlet itself, but extends oflf the coast.
Towards the head of the inltt, the shores are quite bold in some places,
and the water probably deep.

In the mou'^ of Cumshewa inlet, to the north of Skedans islands are 20
fathoms water, with a shell and gravel bottom. Off the north point of
entrance, Cumshewa island, a small barren rock, and the Cumshewa rocks,
extend in a south-easterly direction nearly 1^ miles. A vessel coming
frjm the north shou!u, ihor'^fore, keep well off the shore till the rocks are
passed, and then stand in to the entrance in a north-westerly direction.
On the outer point near Cumshewa island are the ruins of an abandoned
village. Kin-gui island, just within the north entrance point, on the north
side of the inlet, is covered with dead trees, and can be recognised easily.
At about a mile within the entrance, an extensive shoal, on which the sea
breaks heavily, runs off from the south shore, leaving a channel about half
a mile wide between it and the north shore of the inlet. The passage in is
through this channel, in which it is reported there arc 7 and 8 fathoms
water. The southern point of a peninsula which projects from the northern
shore of the inlet, bearing S. 88° W., just clears the northern edge of the
shoal. A few patches of the shoal dry at low water, but the greater part is
indicated only by the kelp which grows thickly on it during the summer.
The tides run strongly in the mouth of the inlet.

McKay cove. — within the narrows, on the north shore, is a cove>
where a small house for the purpose of trade was built, but is now aban-
doned. The shore dries out for some distance at low water, but off them
a small vessel may find a pretty secure anchorage, though the tide sweeps
round the cove.

Cumsliewa village is also situated on the north side of the inlet,
about one mile westward of McKay cove, the houses being built along
the shore of a bay facing south-eastward, 3J miles within the en-
trance. A small rocky islet, connected with the main at low water, lies
off it.

Anchorage. — The best anchorage for a large vessel is probably to be
found on tho south side, nearly opposite the peninsula before alluded io,
and abreast a stretch of low land, eastward of a stream.

The COAST. — From the entrance to Cumshewa inlet, the coast
runs north-westward to Spit point, the south point of Skidogato inlet, a
distance of 17 miles. It is indented by two considerable bays, Copper
bay — the northern — about 5 miles from Spit point, received its name from
some copper works carried on here at one time. The land is low, and-ery
different in appearance from that of the coast southward. The projecting

14,0

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[CIUP. VII.

points are generally low and flat, and formed of gravel deposits.* With
the change in the character of the land, the beach becomes flat, and shoal
water extends far oS shore, the depths shoaling from 10 fathoms at 3 miles
off" Cumshewa island, to 6 and 7 fathoms at 7 miles off" Spit point. Near
Cumshewa the beaches are almost entirely composed of boulders, but ehow
more gravel and sand toward Skidegate. The surface of the country is
densely wooded with trees of large size.

SKIDEGATE^ INLET and CHANNEL separates

Moresby from Graham island. The harbour is spacious, and communi-
cates with the Pacific at Buck point, south of Cartwright sound, by an
intricate channel, only navigable for canoes a portion of the way. Skide-
gate inlet runs in a south-westerly direction for about 9 miles from the
Bar rocks, where it contracts to a width of 1^ miles between Image point
and that on the north side of AlUford bay. Within these points it opens
again, forming two expansions, separated by Maude island. The part of
the northern expansion eastward of Lina island forms Bear Skin bay ; the
part westward of the island has several islands in it, with Anchor cove in
the western end ; beyond Anchor cove it turns north-west, forming Long
Arm. The total length of the inlet from Bar rocks to the head of I-,ong
Arm being about 21 miles. The southern expansion forms South bay, in
which is South island, its western side passing into Skidegate channel nnd
thence to the Pacific.

The shores of Skidegate inlet are not so bold as those of the fiords to
the south, and are generally fringed with a beach of greater or less width.
The surrounding country is densely wooded, and where the land is flat,
timber of magnificent growth is found. This inlet would be convenient in
many respects as a site for saw-mills. •

Spit point is low and woody, and composed of sand deposits, which,
extending northward, form the bar which stretches across the entrance to
Skidegate inlet.

The bar or spit with from one to 3 fathoms water on it, extends in
a nurth-westcrly direction for about 9;^ miles, to within nearly 1^ miles of
Lawn point, the northern point of entrance. The spit slopes off very
gradually seaward, while toward the iulet it rapidly deepens to 20 or 30
fathoms.

* Cape ChroustchefF, 2 miles to the soutluvunl of Spit point, BbouUl not be passed
nearer than 5 miles ; the cape is low and daik-lookiiig. Coming from the southward,
it shows very conspicuous ; when abreast of it, Spit point, tlie low south point of
Skidegate, becomes isible. — Navigating Lieutenant A. F. Uoxer, H.M.S. Alert,

f See Admiralty plan of Skidegate iulet, No. 48 ; scale, tn « !•() inch.

CHAP, VII.J

SKIDEGATE INLET.

141

Bar rocks, on the outer edge of the spit and 2\ miles from its
extremity, are two in number ; the western one diies 5 feet, and lies
N.W. I N., 6| miles from Spit point; the outer or eastern rock dries
one foot at low water, and bears N.VV. by N. the same distance from Spit
point; N.E. by E., 4 cables from the inner rock; and 3 miles N.E. J E.
from Dead Tree point. The sea does not always break on these rocks.
I<awn point, bearing VV. J N., leads to the northward of Bar rocks.

Lawn point is generally green, with a small sand cliff and a large
bouMer in front of it; a hill 500 feet high rises immediately to the westward
of the point. The coast southward of Lawn point is flat for 10 miles to
Village bay, and is covered witl standing dead trees.

Dead Tree point, 3| miles to the southward of Lawn point, is a
projecting part of the coast> but otherwise is not conspicuous.

Village islands, in front of Village bay, form good marks for
Skidegate inlet; the northern one (Bare islet), 125 feet high, is almost bare,
and the other (Tree islet), having trees upon it, is 153 feet high.

The village of Skidegate, nearly half a mile in length, is situated in the
bay, off which are the Village islands, and consists of many houses, with
the usual carved posts, fronting the beach.

Village bay is a good stopping place ; anchorage may be taken up
between Base islet and the beach in 14 fathoms. It is, however, exposed
to S.E. winds. Should one of these gales spring up, good shelter will be
found in Alliford bay.

Image point. — L* the cove at Image point some rude buildings have
been erected in connexion with the dog-fish fishery, and in 1878 some
persons were engaged in it. The trees in the vicinity are chiefly Menzies
spruce, yielding a white wood of moderately fine grain.

Alliford bay, on the south side of the entrance, is an excellent
anchorage, with good holding ground, in about 9 fathoms. Tho passage
between Flowery islet and the North point of the bay, should not be used.
Wood and water may be obtained.

Anchor cove, situatetl lO^ miles from Village islands on the north
side of the inlet, affords anchorage in 5 fathoms. This i:: the place of export
for the anthracite coal, found on both shores of the inlet, but principally on
the sides of mount Seymour, one mile to the northward of the cove. The
coal has been mined, a small railway being laid to Anchor cove.*

Observation Spot, on North point. Anchor cove was determined by
the Admiralty Survey in 1866, to be in lat. 53° 12'31"N., long. 132' 14' 9" W.,
depending upon Shell island, Beaver harbour, being in 127° 25' 7" W.

* Cowgitz coal mine, the principal cpenings have been at a distance of about a mile
in a N.N.E. direction from Anchor cove. The Queen Charlotte Coal Mining Company
was formed in 1865 to open up the deposits of anthracite wJiich Lad been discovered
here, and abandoned in 1672. In 1869 about 8U0 tons of coal were extracted, and a
portion of it shipped to Victoria.

142

QTTEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[ciur. VII.

Slate Chuck brook is the largest stream in Skidegate inlet, its mouth
being about a mile north of Anchor cove. The brook receives its name
from a quarry a few miles up its course, where the Indians obtain the dark
shaly material from which they make carvings. lu former years communi-
cation used to be kept up with the head of Masset inlet to the north by
means of this stream, part of the distance being accomplished in canoe and
part on foot.

Loading island, 3^ miles southward of the bare Village island,
forms the western part of Aliiford bay at the southern entrance to Skide-
gate inlet ; it is 400 feet high uud appears round.

Maude island lies at the junction of the north and south expansions
of the inlet ; the island is nearly 4 miles long, S.W. and N.E. and 1^ miles
broad, and 1,260 feet high. On the west end of the island the Indians
belonging to Gold hai-bour on the west coast have established a village, on
ground purchased from the Skidegate Indians. The Gold harbour Indians
still preserve their rights over that region, and live there much of the
summer, but find it more convenient to have their permanent houses near
Skidegate.

Skidegate channel runs from South bay for 15 miles to the
Pacific. From South bay to Log point, a distance of 8^ miles, the channel
is contracted, particularly in the East and West narrows, the utr»ner in one
part being only 200 feet wide, and the latter 2 cables. The tides from east
and west meet about the East narrows, running through the channel with
great strength, probably 5 knots in several places. The narrows must be
passed at slack water of high tide, which lasts for a very short time, so
that both narrows cannot be got through in one tide.

DIRECTIONS. — A deep channel into Skidegate inlet may be
found northward of Bar rock spit by steering for Lawn point on a S.W.
bearing until within about a mile of the point, when the water will deepen
to 15 or 20 fathoms ; from this point a general S.S.E. course may be
steered, paying great attention to the soundings, until the west side of
Leading island comes in line with the east side of Bare island.

Navigating Lieutenant A. W. Miller, H.M.S. Amethyst, in August,
1876, remarks, " From the north-eastward Lawn point makes like t. bluff
'< sloping towards the north. Large ships should bring Lawn point to
" bear b.W. and steer for it ; the water will gradually shoal from 10 and 12
" fathoms at 4 miles off, to 5 and 4^ fathoms at about a mile from the point,
" when it suddenly deepens to 12 and 20 fathoms. From this position,
" Welcome point, which appears as a low and grassy patch under Table
" mountain (but is difficult to distinguish), should bear S. by E. | E. If
*' it does not, bring it on that bearing and exactly in one with the left
« tangent of the highest part of Table mountain. This will lead in be-

CHAP. VII.]

SKIDEGATE INLET. — THE COAST.

143

" tween tbe Bar rock spit and the shoal extending from Lawn point to
" Dead Tree point, and up to the leading mark.s." This course will lead
very close to the north-west point of the Bar rock spit, if not over the
extremity of it in 3 fathoms at low water. The deep portion of the
channel from opposite Lawn point till past the north-west point of Bar
rock spit or the Boulder at Lawn point bears W. by N., is only one-third
of a mile wide, attention to the lead and steering, with a sharp look out,
is therefore necessary, for as previously remarked Welcome point is not
readily distinguished.

The west side of Leading island, in line with the east side of Bare Village
island bearing South, leads over the Bar rock spit, to the northward of the
rocks, in 15 feet at low water, from whence the depth is from 20 to 30
fathoms to Village islands ; passing to the southward of these islands an-
chorage may be found in the north-east side of Bear Skin bay in 12 fathoms,
or to gain 8helt«r from a south-east gale, AUiford bay is recommended.

Coasting vessels with local knowledge use a passage with 3^ fathoms
over the spit, 'about one mile south of the Bar rocks (when they are
visible), by keeping Dead Tree point bearing W.S.W. until the leading
mark comes on.

Approaching Skidegate inlet the water should not be shoaled under
6 fathoms at low water until Lawn point bears S.W. or the leading marks
are on.

TIDSS. — It is high water at full and change at Skidegate inlet at
1 h. ; springs rise 17, neaps 14 feet.

The COAST. — From Lawn hill, near Lawn point at the entrance of
Skidegate, to Rose point, the north-east extreme of Graham island, the
distance is about 48 miles. The coast line is straight and open, with no
harbour, and scarcely a creek or protected cove for canoes or boats for long
distances. The beach is gravelly and sometimes stony to the Tl-ell river.
Beyond this it is generally sandy to Rose point. For many miles north-
ward cliflfs of clay and sand are found alongshore, and for about 17 miles
northward of Tl-ell river these frequently rise into cliffs 50 to 100 feet in
height. North of the range of cliffs the shore is almost everywhere bor-
dered by sand-hills, which are covered with coarse gi-ass, beach pea, &c.,
and would afford fine grazing for cattle. Behind these are woods, in some
places burnt, and the trees generally scrubby. This part of the coast is
also characterised by lagoons, and is evidently extending seaward, by the
banking up of the sand under the action of the sea. The largest lagoon
opens out at cape Fife About 6 miles to the southward of Rose point,
running southward for some miles, and reported by the Indians to commimi-
cate with a second further inland. The mouth of this lagoon forms a safe
harbour for boats or canoes at high water, but is nearly dry at low water.

144

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. rii.

The coast between Skidegnte and Rose point having dangerous flats
extending ofP it, which have not been examined, should be given a berth of
6 or 7 miles, nnd the lead kept constantly going whilst ninning along it,
the soundings varying from 9 to 1 1 fathoms.

Tl-ell river enters the sea at 1 0^ miles north of Lawn point. It is
a stream of some size. For about 3 miles above its mouth it runs nearly
parallel to the shore, and separated by a low swampy strip of land about
half a mile in breadth from the sea. This land is of comparatively modern
formation, being composed of sand and gravel. It is partly covered with
spruce trees of no great size. A ruined Indian house stands about 3 miles
south of the mouth of the river. The water of the river is of a dark coffee
or amber colour.

CepG Ball (Kul-tow-sis) nearly 20 miles from Skidcgate bar, is very
conspicuous, having a remarkable white cliff on it, with lower cliffs on
either side; it cannot be mistaken. The Indians report that at very low
tides pr.tches of clay dry a long way off the cape. In the bay North of
cape Ball are the remains of an Indian village.

Rock. — Captain McNeill, of the Hudson Bay Company's Service,
found a rock with 2 fathoms on it, lying East about 6 miles from cape
Ball.

Cape Fife. — Near this cape on some parts of the shore magnetic iron
sand is abundant, with numerous colours of gold in it. There is anchorage
off the cape with off-shore winds ; in this neighbourhood the lead must be
most carefully attended to.

ROSE POINT was named by Douglas in 1788, but is known to the
Haida Indians as Nai-Koon, or long nose. It is a remarkable low pro-
montory, apparently formed by the meeting of the currents and waves
from the southward and westward round this comer of the island. The
inner part of Rose point, near cape Fife, does not differ from the low wooded
coast to the south ; the Indians say there are inland many lakes and
swamps. Further out, where the point is narrower and more exposed, it
is clothed with small stunted woods, which in turn give place to waving
grass-covered sand-hills. Beyond this the narrow gravelly point is covered
above high- water mark with heaps of drifting sand, and great quantities of
bleached timber, logs, and stumps, piled promiscuously together. ITie
apex of the point is a narrow steep-sided gravelly bank, which extends for
a long distance at low water.

A. dangerous spit runs off Rose point in a north-easterly direction, and
is reported to extend for a distance of nearly 6 miles, but its exact
extent has not been ascertained. The point should, therefore, especially
in dark or thick weather, be given a wide berth. Several vessels have

OHAr. VII.]

HECATE STRAIT.

145

been lost on tlii's point. It is a dangerous and treacherous point to round
at any time, excfpt in fine clear weather, and many Indians have been
drowned there on different occasions.

HECATE STRAIT— Soundings.— In the fairway of the south-
east part of Hccute strait the water is deep. From Skidegato across to
within 10 miles of the mainland, in a noilh-east direction, the depths are
from 8 to 25 fathoms ; in some cases, growing kolp was passed through
by the surveying vessel Beaver (1866) in 8 and 13 fathoms.

Shoal. — In lat. 5^" 26' N., long. 131° 6' vV., approximate, a shoal has
been reported, bnt its position is doubtful.

The northern part of the strait between Rose spit and Stephens island,
is nearly 30 miles wide. With the centre of Zayas island bearing
N. by W. ^ W., and the north extreme of Stephens island E. by N. ^ N.,
the depth is 15 fathoms. This bank of soundings was found very useful
on one occasion, during a strong breeze from the south-east, with thick
weather, when H.M.S. Virago anchored on it and remained until it cleared
up, and the land became visible.

Northward of a line drawn from Skincuttle inlet, across the strait to Banks
island, the depth does not exceed 100 fathoms, and is generally much less.
A similar shallow area borders Graham island to the north, and it is also
probably comparatively shallow for some distance off the west coast of the
northern part of the same island.

Tides. — In Hecate strait, the flood tide comes from the southward.
In Dixon entrance, the flood coming from the westward round North
island, sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for Brov;n passage,
spreading for about 15 miles round Rose point, towards cape Ibbetson,
(Edye passage), where it meets the flood from the southward ; consequently
between Rose point, cape Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence south-east 15 or
20 miles, the tides are irregular.

The course and rate of the tidal streams are not regular, being greatly
influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength.
Time of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m.

Between cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island the tides are the
strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much
so, that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.

ROSE POINT to MASSET SOUND.— The shore between
these two places forms a bay 22 miles in width. With the exception of a
few small rocky points, the beach is smooth and regular, and almost
altogether composed of sand, with gravel in some places, its slope above the
ordinary high-water mark being steep. Low sand-hills generally form a
border to the woods which densely cover the land. The water is shoal far off

Q9016. K

146

QUEEN CHARLOTl'E ISLANDS.

[chap. VII.

tho shore, especially at 15 mileH from Rose point, ond on approaching
Masset sound, wlicrc kelp forms wid(> fields ut a great distance from tho beach.
In the north-east part of the hay there is anchorage with ofT-Hhore winds.

Hi-ellen river "t {> mih's soutli-wcstwanl from l{os(! point i.s a
s(rcam of .sonic size, which i» frequented by great ntimhers of galmon in
the autumn. Its mouth forms a good boat harbour. On its east bank aro
the ruins of an Indian village, and on its west, Tow hill, an eminence
remarkiible in this low country, facing the sea with a steep clilf 200 f<!et
high, composed of columnar volcanic rocks on one side, while the other
slopes more graduallj'.

MASSET HARBOUR is rather more than 22 miles S.W. J S.
from Rose point, and should be approached by vessels with cjuition ; the en-
trance is between a low point with a ledge of rocks covered with kelp, half a
mile off it on the western side, and the point of a long spit partly dry (the
surf usually breaking the whole length of it), on the eastern, the passag >
between having an extensive bar. With tho outer western point bearing
W. by N. one mile, the depth is 5 fathoms at low water; from this position
the course in is about S. b. E. ^ E., the soundings over the bar varying
from 5 to 3 fatlioms, for about 3 miles, to abreast a village on the western
shore, a little more than a mile from what may he termed the inner or
])roper entrance to the harbour ; the water then suddenly deepens to
9 and 11 fathoms, the channel lying in the direction of the eastern point
of what has been called the inner entrance, and the depth, at about
2 cables from the beach that forms it, being from 10 to 13 fathoms. Just
inside, and round this point, is a pretty bay, with a beach, containing the
principal village (Ut-te was), off the centre of which there is anchorage
in 10 fathoms.* At this part the width of the harbour is nearly 2 miles,
u large sand-bank filling up its western side. The ebb tide runs very
strong, making this by no means a good aiuihorage.

In 1878 the Hudson Bay Company had a post at Ut-te was, the only
one on the islands ; the Church Missionary Society also had a sttiti<m here
which had been established two years. About a raih; south of this phice,
also on the east shore, is a second village, and on the opi)osite side a third.
They are all decaying, and have comparatively few inhabitants. Mas.set
must at one time have been a populous place.

The land in the vicinity of Masset harbour is all low, no hills being
visible.f It is generally densely timbered with fine spruce trees, but there

♦ .See Admiralty plans, Ports in Queen Charlotte islands, No. 2,168. In J852 the
Indians belonging to this place seized, plundered, and burnt an American Rchouner, the
master and crew being spared through the influence of the chief, fidensaw.

f 'I'hc Hudson Bay Company^ cattle have kept themselves, grazing on tho open sand-
bills in the vicinity of the coast, requiring no attention, summer or winter.

CHAP. VII.]

MASSET HARBOUR AND SOUND.

14.7

are reports of prniries in the interior, which mny not improbably be Hwampa.
At 3 miles up tim sound, a lugoon or aiin run» oti' on the euHt side. At
this place the Und attnins an elevation of 100 feet or nior'.*, Hjjreading back
in a lint or gently undulating plain at this level. Neaiiy (.pijosite this
place, on the west side is Maast island, wliich apj)ears to have given its
name to the entire inlet. It lies across a bay, which seems at first sight to
oifi-r better anchorage than that alren<ly referred to. The island is low and
sandy, and a great part of the bay or passage behind it is dry at low water.

MaSSet sound. — The length of Masset sound from itsseawaidentranco

[to the point at which it expands to Masset inlet, is 19 miles. It is about a

smile in average width, and though slightly tortuous, preserves nearly the

[parallelism of its sides. The depth, ascertained in a few places, varies

[from 10 to 12 fathoms. A number of little streams enter at the sides,

most of which, according to Indian reports, have their sources in small

f lakes. On the eastern side, at 4^ miles from the southern or inner end of

I the sound, where its trend is nearly south-west and north-east, a narrow

j)assago runs off southward, joining the expanded portion of Miusset inlet,

and forming a large island, which is generally lower than the surrounding

country. This passage is [)artly dry at low water, and is occasionally used

by the Indians in canoes.

At its southern end, the naiTOw part of the inlet, which has been called

^the sound, expands suddenly to a great sheet of water, 17 miles in length

\enBt and west, and in its broadest part 5^ nules. This, to the nortliward

land eastward is bounded i)y continuous low wooded land ; and to the west

land south by hills, rising to mountains, rounded in form and about

1,500 feet high, in the distance.* The northern and southern shores are of

even contour, and often bordered by wide shoals covered with boulders.

The western half of the inlet is studded with islands, and it is rather

irregular in outline, forming four large bays or inlets with intervening

mountainous points. The shores here are steep, with narrow boulder

beaches sloping down at once into deep water. About the heads of the

inlets, ;tnd near the mouths of streams only, are small areas of flat ground

found. Of these inlets, that which reaches furthest southward is called by

the Indians Tin-in-ow-e.

TsoO-Skatli. — On the south side of Masset inlet, 5 miles from its
eastern extremity, is a narrow passage, the mouth of which is partly blocked
by islands, but which leads into a second great inlet known by the Indians
as Tsoo-skatli, or " the belly of the rapid," The largest of the islands in

♦ The natives in 1853 stated that several years ago ships (some haviug three masts)
used to anchor here; and that iu Aiigusl halibut and calmon fill the whole place,
while ducks and geese fill the air.

K 2

148

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. tu.

this passage is named Slip-a-ti-u. Kelp grows abundniitly in tJic channel
on boib sides of the islands, which therefore cannot be very deep. The tide
runs through them with great velocity, especially .it ebb, when in the
western channel it forms a true rapid, with much wliite water.

Tsoo-ekatli is 9^ miles in length, and from one to 2 miles in width. Its
eastern sid:^ h formed of low land, while its south-wc ;tern extremity is a
long fiord-like inlet. In his inlet are many islands, the largest, Has-Xeious,
is nearly a mile in diameter and about 2(X) feet high. The eastern portion
of the south shore is rocky, with many :;mall islets off' it. On the eji item
side of Tsoo-skatli, 2^ miles from its extremity, is Tow-us-tas-in, a romsirk-
able hill with a steep cliff on one side. The north-eastern part of Teoo-
skatli has a depth of from 10 to 16 fathoms. The depth of the north-western
part, about the centre between the large island ani the mainland, was
23 fathoms in one place. That of the south-western arm is probably
greater.

Many streams How into these inlets, the largest is p-obably that wVich is
known as Ya-koun, and enters the 3outh-east«;rn corner of Masset inlet, in
the bottom of a shoal bay. About tha mouth ot tne Ya-koun aru large
sandy Hats, dry at low water. It was formerly navigable for small canoes
a Iciig way up, and is reported to head in a large lake. This is the stream
mentioned as forming a portion of the disused route from Masset to Skide-
gate.* On the Avcst side of the bay at the mouth of thi." river are a fo,y
small houses, used during the salmon scnsoa.

The Ma-min ri ver joins the T oo-skaiiti inlet ut its en.it end, and has a wide
delti*, flat about its nioulh. It is navigable by small easioes for -evemi miles,
but is much obstrtietcd by logs. The Awun. river, some miles west of the
entrance to Tsoo-ikalti, may not bo large ; it is said (-» rise in a lake. Ain
river, entering Masset inlet from the north-west, is an important stream.
'I'^iere are several Indian houses v.bich are occipiod in the summer above
it" month. It is said to flow out of a v large fresh water lake of the same
name, the river itself being short. The lako is filled with islands, and in
tlic vnnter is frozen completely over.

TIDI.^S. — The rise of the spring tide at the entrance of Masset sound
was estimated uv about 14 feet, but owing to the length of the narrow
sovjnd, Masset inlf't has a tide of from 8 to 10 feet only ; and tlit second or
Tt. jt^-skatli still less, about 6 feet. On one occasion, it was high water at
the entrance of iMasst^t sou A at Ih. 1 Sm. p.m., while in the narrow entrance

• According to Indian nccount the distance to Jm; (raverwjd .»n foot, after prooeeding
up the river m f(«r an poisihli?, in a))out Imlf a dujV journey, iiciosh a luountaiuoiis ne«!k
of land, from the Humniit cif which l)oth hurl/uurs can bu Nocn.

m0mmmiimmitm

ni.

lel
ide
the

Its

.s a
us,
iou
orn
ik-

00-

ern
pvns

ClUV. VII.]

VIRAGO S0UN7).

149

to Taoo-skat!'. ?3^ milts distant, the flood had just caused a reversal of the
current at Oh. 20ni.

MASSET to VIRAGO SOUND— The const between these
two places is everywhere low and wooded, with occasional open grassy
spaces. It differa from the coast east of Masset, in being rocky or
covered with boulders. No wide sandy bays occur, and the points are
generally of dark low rocks.

The water is shoal far oft" shore, with wide field.- of kelp. The shore
should be approached with caution, with the leatl constantly going.

In a N.N.E. i E. direction from the east point of Virago sound, there
\nre soundings for several miles ; at 8 miles the depth was 52 fathoms, sand ;
I at o miles otf, the .soundings were about the same ; at 2 miles theve were
i 28 fathoms, sand, and the water then gradually shoaled in to the shore. In
I July, loo3, great quantities of drift kelp were passed through.

Anchorages. — Between iVfasset harbour and Virago sound, which
lies about 10 miles to the we3twa«*d, vhere are some good anchorages, in
which a vessel might remain a night instead of keeping underway, or
cruising about with a south-east wind, and thick weather.

VIRAGO SOUND, constituting the entrance to Naden harbour,
is 3^ miles wide between its outer points, capes Edensaw to the east and
Naden to the west ; and 2^ miled deep to the narrow passage, which is 1^
milej long and about half a mile wide, lejuliug into the harbour.

The outer anchorage of Virago sound is sheltered from all winds to the
sonthward of Ea.st and West. With two small wooded islets on the west
side of the entrance, bearing W. ^ S. one mile, the east point N.E. J E.
2 miles, and the opening to the inner harbour S. ^ W. about 2 miles, the
deptl; is 5 fathoms water, sand and shells ; the shores are low and fringed
with kel^.\ but the load will be a safe guide, as thp water shoids gradually
towards tlv^ land.

A vessel can always get a pilot by firing a gun and auchcring for a short
time, which I should recommend being done. The Indian iidhcrmen will
come off and point out any danger that may be in the way foi a small
recompense.*

The inner anchorage, opposite Kung village on the western side, just
within the narroAvs, is in 10 fathoius, at about 2 or ." cables off shore.
Th^s village has been nearly abandoned for the new Ya tza village on the

• Navigatinj? Lieutenant A. F. Uoxcr, H.M.S. Aleil, 18fi().

Sue sketch of Virago iound, ou Aduiirftlty pUinn of portj, &c. in Queen Charlotte
islands, No. 2,168.

150

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap, vir.

coast at about 4^ miles north-west of Virago sound. This site, though
diiiicult to land at Avith northerly winds, has been chosen because the
Indians can get more trsde here, as many Indians come across from the
north, a distance of about 4») miles, and there is a rather prominent hill
behind KImk-Kwuh point by Aviiioh the canoe-men doubtless shape their
course. The people were removing in 1870. Above Kung village a bank
extends off the eastern side of the narrows nearly halt'-way across, leaving
a channel along the western shore, with 7 to 10 fathoms water in it.

NADEN HARBOUR. — This capacious and land-locked harbour
is about 4 miles in greatest length north and south, and 2 niilcs in width,
with depths of 8 to 12 fallioms in it. Low land, densely wooded with spruce;
and lieinlock of fine growth, borders tlie whole liarbour. Kock appears on
the shore only near the bottom of the harbour, and at Kung village in the
narrows. The south-eastern sliore of the harbour is low, with wide tide-
flats ; the north-western comparatively bold.

Naden river enters the harbour at its south-east corner, and is
probably the largest river on Queen Charlotte islands. It flows from a
large lake, which, according to Indian account, must be 10 miles or more in
diameter. The river is much encumbered by fallen trees, and its banks,
except i" a fev swampy flats, are densely wooded. At high water a boat
can procee«, jout 2 miles up. Stanley (Te-ka) river in the south-west
corner of the harbour is reported to be navigable for boats. Several
smaller streams also enter the harbour. The spruce tiinber is excellent,
and the harbour is well adapted for saw mills and the «'xport of lumber.
In August, the Indians say that halibut and salmon are abundant, and
geese and ducks come in liirgo flocks.

Tides. — The rise and fall is about 13 feet.

VIRAGO SOUND to CAPE KNOX.-Frf m cape Naden,
on the west side of Virago sound, the general trend of thr- shore is west-
ward for about 17 miles (o cnpi; Knox, the north-western extreme of
Graham island. The shore and country behind it are generally low,
though with some rocky diifs of no great height. The pomts are rocky,
but wide gravelly or siindy bays intervene. Some rocks occur at a little
distance ofl" shore, but there is no appearance of a wide shoal belt like that
found east of Mnsset. Kliis-Kwun point 4^ miles W. by N. from cape
Naden, is a remarkable promontory, rising in th;; centre to a hill about
200 feet in height, which, owing to the flat chara(;ter of other parts of the
shore, is visible for a loug distance. In a rocky bay to the east of the
point, and open to the north-eastward, is Ya-tza village before described.

nmfiiUi I

CFIAP. VII.]

PARRY PASSAGE. — NORTH ISLAND.

151

Jal-un riv©r. — Half-way from Klas-Kwun point to the east entrance
of Parry passage is Jal-un river. This stream is of no great size, but its
mouth, in tlie bottom of a little buy, forms an excellent, canoe or boat
harbour at high water, and appears to be a favourite stopping place for
tiavelliiig Indians. At .3 miles further westward is a small proniontory,
on the oast side of which is another excellent boat harbour.

Pillar bay. — To the west is a wide bay, called Pillar bay from a very
reinarkublo columnar mass of sandstone and conglomerate rock which stands
n?ar the eastern side, about 26 feet in diameter and 95 feet high. The
summit is sloping and covtu'ed with some small bushes. It is separat' 1 at
high water from tlie main shore, but rises from a sandy and stony h»»i, at
low water. The Indian (Flaida) name is Illa-tad-zo-woh.

PARRY PASSAGE separates North island (which forms the north-
western extremity of (^ueen Charlotte islands) from Graham island. The
passage proper is about 2 miles in length, with an avenige width of three-
quarters of a milt. 'J'his channel between the ledges of rock which extend
off the southern side for about a mile and North island is clear, bi t the tide
rushes through it, forming a race. The flood runs eastward, leaving the
east end of the passage with a north-easterly direction. Two deserted
Indian villages (Kak-oh and Kioo-sta) lie on the south side of Parry
passage, near its west entrance.

Bruin bay.* —Just without the eastern entrance of Parry passage, and
on the south side, abreast of Lucy island, is a bay with anchoragi^ in it,
in from 12 to M fathoms, sand. A lino of kelp fringes the shore, which
is studdid with rocky patches and stones. This is not a goo<l anchorage
except for a tomporaiy stopping j)lace during thick weather, as the flood
sets into it from the i)assage, forming a numlier of eddies, and rendering it
dillicult to lie at single anchor without fouling it. The country at the back
is low p.nd covered with trees, with here and there grassy spots.

North island, named l)y Dixon in 17H7, is about .5 miles in length,
between North point and its southein extreme, and compose<l of low land,
no point probably reaching a height of 30() feet. It is densely wooded. On
the eastern side of North island there is said to be a good anchorage in a
bay which wa« formerly often used by the vessels belonging fo the old
North West Company.

Cloak bay forms the western entrance to Parry jMissage lying between
the south-west shore of North island and cape Knox. It is about 2^ miles

♦ Thin place received it8 name fnun a large bear coming down on the beach to feed
abreaot of the ship, while H.M.S. Virago was at anchor, in May 1833.

152

QTJEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap, VII.

i- •

wide, with a similar depth. Some rocks on which the sea breaks only in
heavy weather lie some distance oft' the North island shore, and there are
also a couple of remarkable pointed islands on this side.

HeilSlung.--On the south side of North island, in Parry passage, is
a snug cove named Henslung, in which whalers used occasionally to anchor.
H.M.S. Virago anchored in it in 30 fathoms water, and had but just room to
swing clear of the precipitous rocks oi conglomerate which form its western
side. At the head of the cove is a sandy beach, with a stream of water
running through it.

TidOS. — Time of high water at full and change at Henslung is given
by Mr. William Douglas commanding the trading ship Iphigenia in June
1788, as h. 20 m., and the rise IG feet. The night tides were 2 feet
higher than the day.

Lucy islS/Ild., on the north shore of the passage, is separated from
the south side of North island by a narrow channel, on the north shore of
which is a small Indian village, called Tartanno, which was in former
years a place of importance. A reef luns off the east end of Lucy
island, and a wide shoal with kelp stretches eastward from the shore of the
southern extremity of North island. Between those the channel extends
with 8 to 11 fathoms water. Abreast the Indian village the depth in the
channel is 6 fathoms,

CAPE KNOX, the north-west extreme of Graham island, is a long
nari'ow tongue of land, on which are a few low hills. The cape may be
considered as a gigantic dyke of igneous rock running in an east and
west direction. Its south side is boltl, and off it lie several rocks in a
westerly direction, the farthest out at a distance of about 34 miles off the
cape. On these the swell of the Pacific seldom ceases to break with great
violence. A rough trail about a mile in length leads from lvioo-st« village
!>i Parry passage across the neck of the land at tlie base of the promontory
of cape Knox to Lepas bay on the west-coast.

DIRECTIONS. — On leaving Bruin bay or Henslung cove for the
westward, a vessel may pass close to the cliffs forming the southern side
of North island, and keeping at about half a mile outside tlu! reefs that
run off the south shore (Graham island), get a goo«l ofBng before hauling
to the southward, to clear the rocks off cape. Knox. When well out, the
projecting point of Frederick island will be seen about IH miles to the
south-eastward. At 2 or 3 miles to the southward of Parry passage is an
indentation of the shore, which might be taken as its entmnoe by a vessel
coming from the southward, — a mistake that might had to serious conse-
quences, as the whole (>oast, as far as Frederick island, appears to contain
several open bays, with outlying i-ocka off each of them. The Indians, in

era

|«IIAP. TIT.]

SKIDEGATE AND INSKIP CHANNELS.

153

I their sketches of this part of the coast, do not draw any harbours, but
' merely exposed bays.

HIPPA ISLAND, lying 26 miles S.E. ^ S. of Frederick island,
appears from a position 1^ miles seaward of Frederick island as high and
bold ; but from the south its outer end appears as a low point, and the
inner end bold. This portion of the coast is higher and more broken than
the former, the openings appearing deeper, neither does it seem to have
so many rocks lying off it. The Indians show some good harbours towards
Hippa. When abreast Hippa island, Buck point, 27 miles distant, and
also cape Henry, about 18 miles farther to the southward, can be seen, the
coast presenting the same high and broken appt^^rance as the preceding
26 miles. All the points along this part much resemble Buck point, which
is rather low and rugged, jutting out from the high land at the back.

BUCK POINT '9 on the northern side of Skidegate channel, which
leads through to Skidegate. It has a large high island just to the north-
ward of it, and there is another, much smaller and peaked, standing out
clear of the laud at about 3 or 4 miles farther to the northward, and
lying in the entrance of Cartwright sound, which is formed between Buck
point on the south, and Kunter point on the north.

SKIDEGATE CHANNEL, the main entrance to which is
labout 7 or H miles to the eastward of Buck point, and is a little more than
fa mile in width. From the entrance the channel runs in an easterly
Idirection for 6 or 7 miles to Log point, where it is a mile wide. This part
|of the channel affords no sheltered anchomge. \t Log point the West
larrows commence, which leads to Skidegate inlet. About a mile west of
FLog point a branch turns off to the southward for a mile, and then west-
ward to the Pacific, which it enters about 3 miles to the southward of the
main channel, forming an island 5^ miles long by 2 broad, and rising to an
elevation of 1,000 to 2,000 feet.

This passage is only adapted for canoes or boats, as it is blocked by a
bank at its eastern end, with not more than 4 feet on it at high water.

A vessel entering the main channel from the west might find anchorage
in the entrance of this passage where it unites with the main channel.

INSKIP CHANNEL leads round the north side of Kuper
island, and was first used by H.M.S. Virago in 1853. It is about 8^ miles
long, and half a mile wide. A little without it, there are some small
islands on either side, but there will be no difficulty in discovering the
passage in. In the channel there was no bottom at 60 fathoms, b"', at the
entrance a cast of 35 fathoms was obtained on a halibut bank. At a
short diatancc inside the islands, on. the north side of the entrance, is

154

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

[chap. VII.

a vilkge belongiug to the Kilkite tribe. Farther in, on the same Hide,
and about 3^ miles up, is a deep opening, and where this and Moore channel
meet are two other openings to harbours, Avith sonic small islands lying
near them.

MOORE CHANNEL, on the south side of Kui>er island, is
named after Mr. George Moore, Master of H.M.S. Thetis in 1852. This
officer made a survey of both it and Mitchell harbour whilst in that ship,
during the time that a largo number of adventurers from California had
collected here to dig and search for gold, some of that metal having been
discovered by the Indians. This channel is 5 miles long in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction, and half a mile wide, -the shore on each side Ixnng bold
of approach, high, and covered with trees nearly down to the water's edge.
In mid-channel there is no bottom at 70 fathoms. On the north side, just
without the entrance, are some small rocky islets, named Moresby islands,
and on the south side, a few rocks close in shore.*

MITCHELL, or GOLD HARBOUR, about 2\ miles deep
and half a mile wide, is surrounded by precipitous and densely wooded
hills, from 700 to 800 feet in height, and at its head in Thetis cove is a
sandy beach and a stream of water. At 1 1 miles up the harbour is Sansum
island, a small spot covered with trees, and the ruins of a number of hut.*.
The anchorage lies half a mile further on, in Thetis cove, keeping Sansum
island on the port hand; the passage being a fdblo wide, with deep
water. This cove is completely land-locked, but squalLs, frequently
accompanied by rain, come over the hills with considerable violence. At a
good half mile from the mouth of the harbour, on the starboard side going
in, is Thorn rock, with only 3 feet on it at low water ; it lies about one
cable from the shore, and on the opposite side, not quite at so great a
distance from the land, but a little further out, is another rock. These are
dangerous to vessels working in or out; but there is nothing to fear if the
wind be fair and the ship kept mid-channel.

DOUGLAS HARBOUR.— At one mile to the westward of
Mitcliell harbour, and on the same side of Moore channel, is the enti-ancc
to Douglas harbour, apparently very similar to the former, from which it is
separated by Josling peninsula.

DIRECTIONS.— The land being very high on both sides of the
channels leading into the above harbours, influences the direction of the
wind which is either rigiit in or out. Winds Avith any westing blow in,
and those with easting the contrary. A sailing vessel leaving Moore
channel with a south-east wind should keep well over towards Hewlett

* See Admiralty plan, Torts in Queen Charlottts itilauds, No. 2,169.

PCHAF, VII.]

TA800 HARBOUR. — SUPPLIES.

165

bay, to enable her to fetch clear ot the Moresby islauds, as the wind will be
very unsteady until well clear of the high land to windward.

TASOO HARBOUR.— Cape Henry lies 3 miles from the
entrance to Moore channel, and terminates in a steep slope with a hum-
i.iuck at the extremity ; 17 miles to the southward of this is the entrance
to Tasoo harbour, the intermediate coast being high, and rising abruptly
from the sea. The entrance is short and narrow, but the harbour itself is
extensive, with deep water in many places ; tlio anchoiage in h is near
some small islands on the port hand going iu ; it has only been visited by
a few of the Hudson Bay Company's oflicers.

Between Tasoo harbour and cape St. .Tames are other openings, which,
according to Indian report, lead into good harbours, the southernmost of
which is that leading into Houston Stewart channel and Rose harbour.
Inside Anthony island, and close to Houston Stewart channel, is an
opening, called by the natives Louscoone, and reported to be n good
harbour, not unlike Hose harbour. This coast, excepting off Anthony
island, is also apparently bold. The land near cape St. James has fewer
trees on it than that to tlie northward.

The NATIVES (Haida Indians) of the Queen Charlotte islands are
fond of travelling, and make voyages of several hundred miles in their
canoes, visiting Sitka on the north, port Simpson to the north-east, and
"Victoria harbour on the south. They excel in the construction of their
canoes.

SUPPLIES. — The banks in, and near Hecate strait, swept by
strong currents, with the shore line ot inlets and fiords, constitute tlie
feeding grounds of tho halilHit and other fishes, which uliound in the
vicinity of the ii^lands. The halibut is the most important, and is largely
consumed by the natives; the dog-fish is also veiy abimdant, and is taken
for tlie manufacture of oil ; salmon run up most of the streams in large
numbers, es|)ecially in the autumn ; herriugi are plentiful in some places,
especially about Skidegate, at certain seasons ; pollock or coal fish are
caught on the north and west coast, ami supplies an edible oil ; ilounders
and plaice abound in some localities ; cod and mackerel are also caught, and
probably are abundant on certain banks at some seasons ; while smaller fish
and shell fish, oysters excepted, form an important item in the native
dietary. From April to October the shell fish are reputed by the natives
to be poisonous. Immense flocks of wild geese and duck visit the northern
shores of tho islands in the autumn. Potatoes grow in abundance in most
parts, and thrive exceedingly well, forming an important article of food.
These are all to be bought either for money, strong cotton sliirts, cotton
dresses, plain cotton, knives, tobacco, mother of pearl jacket buttons for

156

W^« CHAWOWB „i^^„,.

ornamenting their blanket. ^ ' ^"-

in winter. ' '" ■> ''raTv nunfall c ■"' P"" »f

167

TABLE or POSITIONS.

Place.

Particular spot.

Latitude Longitude
North. 1 West.

Lku.h harbour. Smith sound.

bitx Hugl^ «ound Scboonorj
r * retreat. J

Safety cove
Welcome harbour -
Goldstream harbour
Namu harbour
. Me l!lughlinbay,I^ma passage

Kynumpt harbour -

Port Blakeuey. Millbank sound

Bela-Kula anchorage, Burke |

channel.
Finlayson channel, Klcmtool
*' ^ anchorage. J

Carter bay
Holmes bay, Whale channel

Coghlan anchorage
Lovre inlet
Port Canaveral -
Klewnuggit inlet -

Alpha bay

Befogc bay. Edge passage

Chatham sound, Q^;-^^''"* }
anchorage. i

Metlah-Catlah bay

Port Simpson
»

Nass bay

Nass river

Bear river

Cape St. James
Houston Stewart channel

Skidegate inlet

Virago sound

Port Kuper

Queen CharW"- Idands.
South '.'Xtreme
Obse.rvation spot -
spot
. 1 Ctvpe Edensaw
Saneum island

o / "
127 88 43

127 44 38

127 56 23

128 7 45
128 84

127 52 23

128 10 18
128 11 37
128 22 42

126 48 4

128 32 9

128 24 34

129 G 19
129 17 15

129 35 48

130 8 30
12» 44 51
130 17 34
130 32 10

130 45 40

130 27 30
130 26 86
129 57 36
129 31 54
127 3 27

61 54 |13l 2

52 9 22 131 ^ 1«

53 12 31 132 14 19

54 4 30 132 21 80
52 56 81 1 132 9 40

158

TIDE TABLE.

PlodC.

HiKll

Wiiber.

Full

and

ChaiiKc.

HiRe.

s
'C
a.

8.
8

Place.

HiBh

WBtor.
Ptill
Bnd

Change.

Rise.

•c

Takusli harbour, Smith sound

Fitz-HuKh sduiiil, Schooner
rotrent.

„ Safety covo

„ Welcome harbour

„ Ooldstream har-
bour.

„ Namu harltour -

Port John, Fisher rhaniicl -

Mc Lnui;hliii liny, Lnnia

Kynunipt harbour

Port Blakency. Millbaiik
sound.

Finlaj'son ehannel, Nowlsh
cove.

„ Klemtoo passugo •

„ Carter bay -

Whalo channel. Holmes Imy-

h. m.
1

1
noon
1

30
noon

noon

noon
noon

ft.
It

ft.
11

16-16

12-13

121

8-10

Coghlan anchornKO '

Lowe inlet •

KlewiuiKKit inlet,
villu channel.

Grcn

Stuart anchorage

Alpha bay, Oo-don channel

Refuge bay, . o'c p&NSRgc

PrinciiMj ehannol. Port
Canavenil.

„ Port Stephens -

Chatham soni d, QIawdzcct
ntu-lriragc.

„ tiPtlah-Catlah

„ Port Simpson

Naitslmy • - •

Salmon cove, Observatory
inlet.

Portland canal

h. m.

!J0

.10

1
1 SO

;»

1 .30

noon

1 .30

1 B

1 8

1 SO

ft.

18
17
17

17-22

18
17-22

17-22

16-23

28-27

ft.
11

1.'.

11-17

14-17

11-17

16- et)

Qufcn Charlotte Islamlt,

Skidegate inlet

Viraeo sound ...

ISP

Hassett, entrance of sound -

14 V

Ucnslung cove

20 V

16 F

,, inlet •

8-10 V

Port K'T"' -

1 40

159

INDEX.

I A»lft rock -
lAiWenbrookc isluiul

^.gglomerate islaud
lAin fiver -
fj^-larm rock
I Alaska
[ Alder isbnd

.—, anclioragi!

Aldrich ro'"^
Alexandra passage -

.. — patch

Alford reefs
Alice arm -
All Alone stone
jilUfordbay

Alpha l>ay -
Anchor bay
. bight

, cone

cove, Skidegate

island

_____ mountain
Anchorage patch -
Anger island
Ann island -
Anthony island
Archibald point
Aristazalde island
Arniour roct
Arthur island

passage

A-tli inlet, LycH '^^^^^
Awun river -

Babine lake -
Bag harbour
Ball, cape (Kul-tow-sw)
1 — , rock off -

Btjnipfield islands -

Banks island

Pago
. 34

I
10
. 133
. 148
92
- 1,43
. 132
. 13-2
. 23
- 6,28
. 59
. 52
. 116
. 131
. 141
. 108
. 25
9
. 39
140-142
9
. 108
. 62
. 91

126, 128, 155
- 16
. 99
. 53

- ^'^

- 43
134, 136

. 148

Bar rocks, Skidogatc
Barclay valley
Bardswell grouj)
Bare island

islet

ro'k

Barnard cove
Barrier islands
Bafs rock -
Batt passage
Biith point -
Bay islands -

_ isl'!t

Bear Skin bay

. 45

. 131

144, 145

- l->4

. 45

. 102

river
Beaver bank

— harbour

__ ledge

. passage

. - rock

Bedford i^and

. spit

Belii-Kula anchorage
Bell peak -
Bella Bella islands -
BcUetti point
Ben hill
Bentinck arm
Berry point -
Bertie rock -

Big hay

^ anchorage -

directions -

Bigshy inlet

Bird island -

__— rock

Birnic island

Bischoff islands

anchorage -

Black point -

rock -

point

Page
140-148
. 121
. 99
. 70
. 39
- 21
. 87
8
. 68
2
. 63
. 78

- 122
140, 143

- 128
. 2'i
. 61
. f*2

6,107
. 71
. 42
. . 43
14-19
. 29
' . 16
. 60

- 61

- 19

- 9,32

- 57

- 58

- 58
. 184

- 11

- 27

- 61
133,134

- 188

- 67
. 85
. 85

160

INDEX.

Blakoney iRlct »

' passage -

port

directions

supplies

— — ^— ^— tides -
Blind reef -
Blinder rock
Block heud •

islets -

Blossom point
Bloxlinm island

passage -

— — point •

■ shoal

Blue point
BluflP point

-, Collison bay

Blundcn b.iy
Boat cove -
Bolkus islands
Bonila island

peak

Boot island -
Boston islands
Boulder bank

head

ledge

point

Boys rock -
Breaker gfoup

islets

ledge

point

■ reef

Breezy point
Bribery island
Bright island
British Columbia
Brodic rock
Broken group
Brooke island
Brown narrows

passage

directions

tides

Browne island
Browning passage •
Bruin bay -
, anchorage

Page

- '.14

- 20

- 27

2
. 88
. 86

. yo

. 86

• 42

- 44

- 42

- 122
82,91,121

- 129

• S3

- 130

• 104

- 15

- 77

- 23

- 21

- 22

- 107

- 95

- 102

- 95

- 88

- 2,88

- 121

• 45

- 2,9

1
74,90

- 98

• 115

- 98
70,145

- 71
71,77

8
8

- 151

Buck point -
Bull point •
BuUey bay -
Burke channel
Bumaby island

strait

Burnt cliff iHlan<l
Bush islet -
— — point -
Butterworth rooki

Calamity bay
Calvert cape

island

•— — point
Camp islet •

point -

Campania island

sound

Campl)ell island
Canaveral port

directions
tides

Cape islet

range -

Cardenn bay
Carpenter bay

-, anchorage

Carr islet
Carrington reefs
Carter bay -
Cartwright sound -
Catherine point
Caution cape
Cecil patch -
Centre island

point

Cha-che-Kwas
Chalmers anchorage
Chance rock
Channel group
— ^— island
— — — islands

roof

■■ ■■ rock

Page

140,158

- 99
14

129-132

«H

- 99

- 91

- 70

• 109
10, 94

- 94

- 41

• 86
16,37,120

- 87
> 8S
. 17
. 99

• 99

- 99
' 15

• iia

- 91

• TO

- 10

- 48
128, 129

- 1S9
. S3
. 04

- 81
140, 153

. - 127

1, 12, 121

. 90

- 100

- 44

• 11

- 106

- 10«

- 78
4, 10, 84

- 82

m^tfif^wrrtmm

wm p ntm

INDEX.

161

Chapman point
Charles point
Chatham sound

-- anchoragefl*

— dangers

— east coast

— northern portion

— soundings

— southern portion

— west coast

Cheek Squints
Chismore paaiiage
Choked passage
Chroustoff, cape
Clam island -
Cliff island -

islets -

point -

Climate

Clio bay

Clement's City harbour

Cloak bay -

Clown rock •

Cluster reefs

Coast mound

^— nipple

Cod bank

- reefs
Codfish passage

rock

Coghlan anchorage

CoUison bay
Comber rock
Compton islaud
Cone island -

islet -

Connel islands
Connis rocks
Cooper inlet
Copper bay
— — islands
Cowitz coal mire
Cox point •
Cranstown point
Crescent inlet
Cridge islands

— passage
Cross islet
ledge -

Q9016.

Page

55
15
48
50
49
51
74
49
50
67
3.'«
44
63, 96
40
14

18, 21, 23

- 91

103, 110,122

66, 79, 118

151

49,72

18,77

129

109

102

74, 107

189

129,130,132

102

135

120

Cross point -
Cruice rock •
Camming point
Cumshewa inlet

, tides

, anchorage

, rocks off

island •
to Spit point
village •

Cunningham islands
' ■ passage
Curlew rock
Curtis point

■ rock • •

Cypress island

Dall patch -
Dana inlet •
Danger patch
■ rocks
— — shoal
Daring point
Dark islet •
Darwin sound

, tides
Davenport point
Dawes point

rock -

Dawson point
— — — ledge
Day point -
Dead Tree point
Dcadman island

islet

Dcaae channel
Deans point -
Dc Horsey island
— la Beche inlet
Deep bay

patch -

Deer islaud •
•— — mound

l>oint -

Defeat >oint
Deluge loint
Deniy island

rock -

Despair point

P»f«
U

89
186-140
189
189
189
189
189
189
17
60
57
102
103
17

18
136, 137

• 33

- 128

. 46

. 93

132, 134-136

- 134
^- 86

. 52

■ 52

- 36

- 37
20,80

141, 143

- 104

- 90
18,47

- 71

- 47

■ 132

- 25

- 68

- 17

- 49

- 90

- 18
129, 130

• 15
s 5

- 90

162

INDEX.

Det>'.ch»>''. island
Devastation island •
Devil rock -
Devils point -
Dickens point
Digby islands
Dim^ile point
Discoverj rocVj
Disraeli mount
Dixon en»r».n?e

tides

island

Dodd paMiage
■ rock -

Dog island -
Dogfish bay
Dolomite narrcws -

tides

Dolphin island

Don flat

— ^ — ledg.7 -

point -

Double island
— — 'slet point -
— ..jonntain
Douglas chanDel

— harbour -

Dowager island
Dsoolish bay •

Ducie islan> 1
Duncan bay -

— directions

Dundus islands

Enst point, PreTost island

rock -

Echo harbour

anchorage

Eclipse island

Edensaw, capo

Ediuuud point

Edward reef

Edyc passage

— directions

Egg island •
— — rocks -
Elizabeth iNJand

Page

- 28
. 53

- 83

- 120

- 53

- 92

• 21

- 118

- 75
■ 77

- 92
. 62

• 60

- 136

- 119
131,132

- 131

- 105
. 40

- 88
40,81

. &1
. Ill

• 141

• 35

- 154
20,24

- 73

- 54

- 65

• 55

- 72

- 125

- 95
135,136

- 135

- 84

- 149

- 14

- 68

• 69
■ 69

5
ft

• 44

Elizat)eth poak

rock

Ei:«n island
Elliott i^lRnd
■ ■■■ point
Emma passage
End hill
Enfield iock
Entrance island

— reef

Entry cone -
— - - peak -
Escape reefs
Essiugton port
Estcvan island

ledge

sound

Ettrick rock
Fivans arm •
Evening point

rock

Exposed arm
bay

Fainray rovk
False cone hill

Egg <i<!and

grassy islet -

— 8t"art anchorage

Farewell cape

ledge .

Faraday is'..ad
Farrant island <

Fife cape

, anchorage

Fin island -

— rock
Fingal island

k-vtires

Finlayson channel •
' ■ island

Fish point - •

rocks -

Fisher channel
Fishennan cove
Fishing l>a:.ks
Fitz-llugh sound
direotlonit

Page

- 45

- 44

- 127

■ 110

- 110

- at

^187
. 71

■ 10
. 77
. 57

• 101
. 88

■ . 87

• 50
15

. 88

■ 13

- 40
96

- 96
> 105

- 106

• 42
. 36

- 36

- 133

- i&
143, 144

• 144

- 85
. 85
■ 98

• 99
. 29

- 59

• 108

8
14,18

- 36
134, 155

• 10

INDEX.

163

Page

Pago

m Fitz-Roy reef

■ 94

Graham islaad 125, 140. 143. 152. 156

m Flat rock -

> 128

reach

- 83

R point - - -

84,110

Granite point

129, 130, 132

- r>8

Grassy islet •

18, 49

^ Flower pot island -

136,137

Grove point -

B Fly harin ...

Green inlet .

. 84

K Fog roeks ...

- 14

islet -

- 75

|Fog8

- 79

129-131

f Fog/j;y point

- 122

islets -

• 128

Forsyth point

- 127

mound

- 60

Fort point -

- 113

top island

- 50

Fortune point

- 59

toy islet

• 91

: Foui bay . . _

- 108

Grenvir,e channel

. 38

- 91

Grey islands

For (jape - - -

- 76

islet

- 7ft

; Frank point-

■ 116

Gribbell island

- 54

FraHor reach

- 34

Grief bay

10, 94

Fraser river •

- 45

ledge -

• 108

Frederick inland . . i

52, 153

point -

• lOS

Frigate bay

- 11

Griffin mount

Fury point -

• 82

Guano rocks

- 88

Guide islet .

- 90

Gull rock .

- 199

rocks -

. SO

Gale point . . «

- 90

Gunboat harbour

. 42

creek -

- 19

- 17

•Uali ino island

U under islands

- 100

Gardner shanucl

- 47

Genn islands • •

. 45

Haida Indians

- 155

George harbour

. 180

llakai channel

18, 95

-hill -

- 61

d^reotiona

- 97

- 16

Halibut bank

184 IM, 153

■ . rock •

baj

• 130

Gibson islands

'-r a

- 108

Gil islard -

86,84

Hammond r ^k

- 74

— mount - . •

86,84

Hundyside island

• 18

Gladstone mountain

124

Ilunkin ledges

- 93

Gnarled island;; - •

8,75

Goat cove . . . .

• reefs

• 62

Guid or Mitchell harbour • 14

2, 154

Hanmer rock

• 70

Ooldetream harbour -

Hannah rock

Goletiu* channel . . .

Harbour bank

• 92

Good Shelter cove - • •

16, 96

Goose islands . . .

ledge

- 96

\e<lpe . •■ - •

100

reefii

• 89

Gordon islets . . .

128

Uurbourinastcr point
Harriet island

Goschr'u island . . .

15
- 180

Gosling rocks

180

164

INDEX.

P«g«

Vaga

Harris islet -

Ibbctson cape

68, 145

Has-Keious island -

- 148

Iceberg bay -

- 118

Hastings arm

• 116

Image point

. 141

Hat hill

• 92

Indian cove -

Havelock rock

- 50

itlnnd

- 29

Haycock island

5(,10I

■— villages

- 64

rocks

- 101

Inner island, Richardson inlet

136, 137

Headwind point

- 90

Inskip channel

153, 154

Hecate channel

- 98
13, 95

Tr:ii.:._ i_:i.„

- 154

- 68

mill. II ii'v

- 95

Iron point -

- 129

rock -

- 55

Ironside island

- 11

. strait, soundings

- 145

Isabel island

- 54

1 45

Tultifwl |l]l • •

- 131
I2y

134,155

Islet point -

1 *9

Hcdlcy patch

• •

- 83

Helmet island

- 187

- 20

Hcnsliing cove

. 153

•Tackson passage

- 30

- 152

.lal-iiii river -
•lames eupe -

- 151
3

, tides

- 152

Henry cape - - -

153, 155

point -

• 39

Hepburn point

- 39

roek -

Herbert point

■ 94

.June creek -

■ 15

reefi

. 43

island -

- 30

Hewitt rock -

- 31

■lauette island

Hewlett bay

- 154

Joiiehim island

Hi-ellen river

• 146

John port

- 14

Hie Kish narrows

- 31

reef -

High water rocks

89, 104

.Jones point -

Highway island - «

Jorkins point

- 22

Hippu island

• 153

Juan Perez sound

129,

132, 133

Hodges reef -

- 17

anchorage

• 138

HodgHou reefs
Holland island

entering -

133, 134

. 50

■ "' ' >

Judd rock

Holmes bay -

- 36

Junk ledge -

- 103

Hoop reef -

Hornby point

- 126

Hot spring islet

- 133

Ka-Klces-Ia -

» ^

House islet -

- 133

Ka-KoDsh-dish creek

- 17

- 133

IvH-miift-ik

- 31

- 10

Houston Stt'wart channel

12r-128. 155

Ka pi-lish

'borages 1 27

Karslake pr)iut
Kelp hetil -

ledge -

passage

• 13

• 103
- 44

1 iiinL*itii*i I*1J

-wnstwiird I'JR

Hunt point -

• 50

Hunter islund

15, 97

— - paleii -

• St

. 153

point -

9, 108

Huston bay -

- 130

rock

• 54

Hutton inlet

■ 13'.

Kennedy island

- 48

Huxley island

131. 132

Kerouart islands

- 1116

, ..,_L.aa, lui jaaBWBBB

INDEX.

13
ll

Khutze ann
Khutze;mat«en inlet
Kilawaluks -
Kilkite tribe
Kiltik creek
Kin-gui island
KiDcolith -
Kingcorabe point
Kinuahan islands
Kioo-Nta village
Kit-u-Kauze village -
Kititstu hill
Kit-Kia-tah inlet
Kit-Iali-kr,m-ka-dah village
Kit-iiiiu-i-ook village
Kit-oah-Watl
Kitsa^ratla country -
Kitson inland
KIUv patch -
Kiwash iHiand
Klas-kwun point
Klekaiie arm

, inlet

Kleintoo passage
Klcwntiggit inlet

anchorage
directions
NQundiiigs
tides

Klick-T«o-Atli harbour
Klun-kwoi bay
Knight inland
Knox cape -
, rockfi off

point

Kiim-ea-lon mlet
Kiin-gfl itiland
Kuug village, Virago sound
Kupcr island
Kwakshua "hannel -

roek

Kzn-j|r<«l inlet
Kynumpt harl><>ur

JjLAy island
Lake island
T/sk-Uou
I, Ilk oh- wit*

Page

- 34

- Ill

- 114

- 154

- 189

- 112

- 35

- 50
151, 152

- 114
. 80

- 39

- 114
. 114

- 114

• 46
50

- 27

- 13
150, 151

- 35

- 35
■ 32

• 40

• 41

• 41
. 41

- 41
16

185

- 53
150-152

- 152
. 61

- 42
186, 187

- Utf
lis, 154

13,95

- 95
49

- IS

82, ra

• 20
- 67

Lama passage
Lamb islet -
Landslip mountain
— — — point
Langford point
Larcom island
Laredo channel

sound

directions
soundings
tides

directions

Largo Cridge island
Laskeek bay

, anchorages

or Khu village

Lawn point -

hill

to Rose point

LawKon harbour
Lawyer group •

Loading island

peak

point

Ledge point
Legge point
Lepas bay -
Letitia point
Lewis island

passage

Liddic island
Limestone islands -
— — — — rock
Limit island
' ■ - j'oint
Linn island -
Lizard point
Liiizie hill -
Loti^ i>ltiud
Lo).' point
Logan inlet
—— point .

Long arm

- island
— ~ point
r>oo roek -
Lord isluid -
Louise islanu
I»UKM«Mie harbour
XjOW islaod

165

Page

- 15

- 42

- 112
35,121

- 127

• 116

- 82

- 83

• 88

- 83

- 80
. 83

53
136-188
136, 137

- 136
14a-144

- 143
143, 144

- 44
. 46

40, 96, 142, 143

60, 95

86, 120

16S

35,85

116

138

181

140

110

142, 153

134, 136, 237

• ISO

- 140
7, 106

7.27

- U

- 76
128. 136-188

126, 155
18. 138

■p

166

INDEX.

point -

rock -

Lowe inlet -

anchorage

supplies

tides

Lucy group
ishmil

. -, village (Tnrtanue)

islands

Liixana bay
Lyell island
, A-tli inlet

Ma-miu rivers

Maast island

Magiii saddle

Main pai^sage

Malacca passage

Maple point

Marble rock

Marcbant rock

Mark islet . - -

— •- nipple

— — rock - - -

Mannot river

Marrack island

— rock

M»ry cove - - -

■ island

Maskely, c point
Masset sound

- —, bar

, harbour

, Hudaon Bay Co.

— - .-, inlet -

———— — -, missionary station

_— — , soundings oflf -

, tides -

-, to Virago sound

Mathiesoa channel -
Matliksimtas
Maude island

__ viliuge

Maxo islands
Mc CauU-y is/and
— — Grath mount
- — Kay cove

>i^ roach

McLaughlin bay

Page

- 24, 81, 111

81, 129

. 39

■ 40

- 40

• 71
151,152

163

- 51

• 135
133, 134, 136, 137

• 134

• 148
147

2
17, 75

- 45
- 38, 8G, 121

• 89

• lOS
. S5

- 94

• 15

■ las

• 43

■ 48

- 80

- 21
67,110

- 147

• 14«

■ 146

- 140
147, 148

- 146

■ 146 I

• 148 I

- 149 I

- 24

- 86
140, 142

. 142

- 11

- 91

- 48

- 180

- 85
10,156

Neil- mount

Meadow island
Metlah-Catlah

anchorige

population

supplies

tides

• village

Middle Dundas island

Gander island

passage

rock

rocks

Midge rocks
Milhank sound

directions

, soundings -

Mink Trap bay
Mission mountain •

point

: — valley

Mitchell or Gold harbour

, directions •

MofPatt islands
Molly point
Moore channel

hea«l

Monument rook

Moresby island - 125

. mountains

Morning reefli
Morris t>ay -

— nuchor&ge

supplies

Moss passage
Mouse rock
Muckshwanne
Mind islands
Murohison island
Murray cnpe
Mussel inlet
Mylor peninsula

Naas-Olee village •
Nab rock
Nabanhah bay
Naden, ca[>e
harl>oar

nver

Nakat inlet

Page
49
17
52
54
66
56
56
55
72

100

2,99

104
53
20
24
20
. 91

• 49

• 54

• 112
138, 142, 154

• 154

- 78

- 87

• 154

- 136

• 131
128-130, 140

128, 132
89
27
28
28
U
21
117
113
IdK
145
30
111

- 45

- 81

- 89
149, 150
149, I3U

- 150
78

INDEX.

167

Page 1

Page

Nalau i«>Iaud8

Oar point -

- »1

— — passage

,97

Oat-so-alis -

- - lin

I^amu httrboor

Observatory inlet -

' 114

anchorage -

• 87

Napier poiut

- 87

Narrow islaud

Observation point •

• 56

Narrows, East, Skidegate -

142

12, 18

West

142,

153

Ogden channel

- 105

, tides

143

Oke island -

- 26

; Nuss bay

rcefe •

. 26

\ — anchorage

lis

Oldfield mount

- 48

1 tides

113

Onc-trce island

- 58

river -

113

. 61

114

Oona bay -

- 106

114

Open bay -

. 10

114

Oriflamme passage •

- 75

) Nasoga golf

111

Osborne islands

- 70

Natives (Haida Indians)

155

Oscar pa^^sage

. 29

; Neck point

G .ter anchorage

. 58

Needle peak •

109

channel

. se

Nepcaii sound

— — cove -

. 29

Nettle basin

. 89

New patch -

- 37

Nin stints village

128

Outer island

20, 60

Nob islet

110

Oval hill •

- 68

Noble point

North Bay islands -

Bentinck arm

—— "oreaker

70, 99

Pacific ocean • 124

, 140, 1£S, 153

Channel islands

Paddle rock

Danger rocks

103

Paddy passage

• 115

Dundas islands

Parkin islands

- 67

Gander island

100

Parry passage

151, 152

Iron rock

, directions

• J5a

island

24, 151

,152

, tides

151, 152

ll«l^llAl>«lrVlk

151

P ssagc cono

- 106

Island group

'22

26, 87

It'llgCS

Pcarce point

- 69

Pt'Hrl liapfioiir •

- 59
3

, — — - pilsSUgO

-10, 18, 38, 47

rocks -

directions

Pcarse island

- 109

— — point

,112

Peninsula point

- 106

Penrose island

- 7, 10

, 107

Percy point

- 145

104

I'oril rook -

- 15

Surf islands -

Perry bay -

- 117

— — twin islet

106

Petrel channel

- 98

— — Watcher islet

shoal

west rocks -

'04

Pevoril rock

- 99

Tijowish

Pike island

- 58

168

INDEX.

PilUrbty -

— — rock (Hla*tAd-zo-voh)

Piue island •

Firie point -

Pitt island -

Plover island

Plumper channel
Pointer island
Pointer8 rocks
Pole islet
Porcher island
Port reef
Portland canal
— — tides -

inlet
point

Prescott island
Prevost island
Price island -
Prince of Wales island
Princess Royal island
Principe channel
Promise island

ledge

point

Purple bluflf

Pag"

• 151

- 151

- 18-i
41, b6

- 13

- 85

15, as

- 15

- U

- 17
44,50

- 96

- 117
. 124

• 109

- in

- 67
125. 126

98,80

- 75
83,82

- 89

- 86

- 87

- 26

• 98

Qlawdzect anchorage

• observation spyt
■ tides

71
72
72
98
52
9
97
75, 125. 155

Qual-n-qute -
Quartermaster rock -
Qua^-ciUah -
Queen's sound
Queen Charlotte iskndo

, general remarks 125

sound - - 2

Quel ak-sea-hx • • • 36

Quiuamo'w bay - - - 111

Quoiuhill - - - - 7,11

Rachel group - • •74

— i.^lisnds - • - 01

Rage reef - - - - 25

Rainfall, Queen Charlotte islands - 10R
I.. point - - - as

Kamsdeu point ... in

Ramsay island
Ranger islet •
Raspberry cove

island!

Red point -

Cliff point

— — top mountain
Reef island •
Refuge bay -
— — — — anchorage

Obserration spot

tides

Regatta reefs <

Reid island -

Remarkable cone mountain
Rempstonc rocks
Restoration cove
Reverdy Johnson mountain
Richard point
Richardson inlet

a'lchorage

• tides
' timber

Ripple bank •

tongue

River bight -
Rivers inlet -
Robinson mount
Rock fish harbour -

, anchorage

Rodetick islands
Rose harbour

point (Nai-Koon)

, anchorage

to Masset sound

spit

Ross island -
Round point
Rupert fort -
Ryan point -

Safe entrance
Safety cove -
Saint .Tohn harbour -
Salal point -
Salmon cove

fides -

river

bight] -

Page
138, 134

- 112

- 127

- 47

• 92
84,59

- 133
119, 138

- 69

- 70

- 18

- 16

- 99

- 19

- 128

- 115
135, 186

- 136

• 186

- 137
8S,57

- 118

• 86

9
8

- 137

- 29
126-128

78, ; M

- 146

- 145
144, 145

- 187

- 123
61.156

- 56

U
IS

lis

US
185

INDEX.

169

|1*W

134

112

137

J4, 59

133

|9, 138

q
15

123

15, 186

136

137

38,57

118

. 86

- 137

- 187

- 29
26-128

re, : u

- 146

- 145
U, 145

- 127

- 123
>1, 156
• 5«

118

188

tit

Sandfly bay -
Sandgpit iioiiit

slioal

Saiidstune reef
Sanstim Uland
ijarah island -

point -

Saw reef
Schooner ledge

pIlSKilgC

point

lelrcat

dircctioDi ■
tides

Scuddcr jioint
Sen bluff -
Sfubreeze point.
Sciifortb ebiinnel

anchorage

Sea Otter group
Seal rocks -
Seak'd passage
Search i-'lands
Secure anchorage
Sedgwick bay
Sedmond river
Selwyn inlet
Sentinel island
Serpent point
Seymour, mount
Shadwell passage

direction* -

Shangoi tribe
Sharp peak -
Shattock point
Sheep p!i!<»age
Shell inland -
Ship anchorage

pannage

roek -

Shower i^aud
Shrub islet -

point

Shuttle itil'.'.iid

Sierra dc San ChriBtoval

Simpson f irt

port

anchorage

climate

ilirectioM

Q 901 0.

Page

- 120
83, 9C

. 83
. ii

- 154

- 30
61

. 132

■ 81
28, 107

- 81

- 10

- 11
. 11

- 132
• 11

- 46

■ 18

- 19

C8, 83, 123
o

6
11

- 133

- 127

- 137

- 100

- 15

- 141

1
2

- 128

- 58

- 57

- 30

- 12

- 41

53, 102

- 8fi
134, 135

- 135
63, 15C
61,155

62
C(i

Simpson port, obhcrvation opot

supplies

tides -

rock

Sisters islets

Sitka ...

Skaat harbour

— — , anchorage -

Skcdans bay

islands

race

village

eena river

' anchorage
tides • -

Page

- 67

- 65

- 67
71

'2'J, 90

• 155

- 131

• 131

• 138
138, 139

- 188

- 186

- 45

- 47

Skide^xate inlet lO'i, 125, 139-143, 153, 155

— ,ba." -

, coal -

, directions

, iudiKUs

— ~, Vtk::

, village ■

-hannel -

140, 143

- 141
142, 143

- 141
• 148

- 141
125,140,142,153

Ski:--„utlje ixnL

-, anchorage

— -, anchorage -

, North side -

, South side -

, Western side

Skip river - - -

Slab point - • .

Slate Chuck brook -
Slip-a-ti-a island

, tides

Slippery rock
Small fridge island
Smith inlet -

island

sound

Snow, Queen Charlotte islands
Somerville island
Sophy islet - . -

Sorrow island

islands

Suupil poin^
rock

Sontli hay - - -

— islands -

— Channel isla/ids

IlKK' . - -

- 153
129-131

. - 180

- 180

- 61

- 122

- 142

- 148

- 56

- 53

- 47

- 156
■ 110

- 117

- 94
10

• 18

• ai

140, 142

- 81
88

128,129

170

INDEX.

Bouth Dundas i>liti<(]

Gander island

cast nrni

— Gander isliinds

Iron rock

island

Needli- peak -

passage

pointers

rock -

rocks -

Surf islands -

twin islet

Watcher islet

Sparrowliawk breaker-

rock

Spicer island
Spider island
Spit point -
Spray point -
Spur rock
Squall point
Squally clinnnel
St. James, cape
Stag rock
Stanley river
Star islan<l
Htaifish group

ledge

Start jKjint
Steamer passiigc
Steep point
StenhouM.' shoal
Ste[)hen isliind
— — — rin-K
Stephens point
port

-, tides -

Stew..rt narroMs
btopford point
Storm islanflh

islai. 1

Stripe mountain
Stuart anclioragc
Stumatin bay
Suj^ar-loaf hill
Sunday island
Sunken rock
Superstitiiui ledgo
— ■ ■ ■■ — point

Page

- 7a
• 100

- 119
100

5
57, 140

- 80
4, 13, 32

- 95

- 103

- 84

- »06

- 88

- 101
. CO

- 106

- 97
119, 140

- 83

- 92

- 84
125,126, 128,155

- 41

- 150

- 95

- no

17,111

9. 81, 89, 122

67, 145

- 92

- 37

»l
87

- 180

- 91

- 20

- 41
• 01

- 95

- 14

2
97

- 97

Surf islands -

islet -

point -

Surge narrows
Surprise itatcli
Susan island
Suwance roek
Swain cape -
Swallow island
Swamp islet
■ p'jinl

Swanson bay
Swindle island

Table hill

isliiod

mountain

point -

Takush harbour

--, anchorage
--, directionH
--, tides

Tul-un kwan it<land
Tan-oo island
Tangle cove
Tar islands -
Tasoo harbour
Telakwas

Telegraph paKsage -
Terror point

rocks

'rh«is cove -

"Worn ledge a!id point

Thorn ledge

point -

rock -

Thumb peak
Ti-tul island
Tide rip islands
Tie island
Tinin-ow-e inlet
Tl ell river -
'I'lechopcity harbour
Tolniic rock

channel

Tombstone bay
T«im islet
'iotnlinsun ino<int -

I'uge

. 84

• 21

- 83

- 29

1
. 20

- 57

• 56

- 121

- 34
22, 32

49,73

141, 142

- 70

8
»
9
9

- 137

- 136

- ISO
133

135, 155

- 10
4<

- 10?

- 102

- 154

- 37

- 87
37

- 134

- 49

- 187
101

1411.144

- ft

■ M
as

- mi

■ so

- 112

INDEX.

171

TongnB inland •

Tonkin point
Too-witt
Tow hill

tis-tos-in hill -

Trade i»iliind
Trap rocks -
Tree bluff -

islet

nob groups

— — point -
— — reef
Trefiisiai point
Trevnn rock
Trivett point
Trouble island
Truro i^ilund
Trascott patch
Tsimpsean peninsula
THOO-skatli -
Tuft island -
Tugwell ishtud
Turn point
Turtle point
Twilight point
I wins, the, mountaius

Union bay •

passage

I'age

- 76

- oa

- '^4

- 146

- 148

- 91

- 81

• S6

- 17

- 68

- 119

• 119

- Ill
. 127

- 35

- 87
. 110

- 89

- 51
147, 148

. 133

- 52

• 122
36, 84

- 131

Useless huy ...
Utte-was village, Massct

Hudson Bay Co.'s pout

— — — — Missionary station

146

Vancouver island

rock

Variation
Venn creek -
Verdure point
Veriiey falls

passage

Vertical jioint

Vl«w piiint •

VU'UitiH

Vlllii^M hsy

inland

■ islands

- 21

1,20,48,80,94,100, 125

- 54

- 122

- 39
1 1 , 35
■ 138

- 138

- 69

- 155

- 141

- 61
141,143

-, race ofl

Virago sound

Virgin rocks

-, anchorage
-, tides -
to cape Knox -

Page

149,150

• 149

- 15U

- 150

Wales island

point

Walker point
AVnllacc biglit
Wanderer island
Wark island
Warrior rocks
Watch rock
Watson bay

rock

Weather, Queen Charlotte islaudb
Wedge point

rock

Welcome harbour -

point

Werner bay
Westminster point •
West rock -
Whale channel
Wheeler islet
Wheelock pass
Whirlwind bay
Whitf Cliff island -

ledge .

— ^— point -

rock

rocks

— — - stone -
Whitesaud islet
Whiting bank
Whitley point
William island
Winds
Windy islet -

islets

rock

Wolf point -
— - rock -
Wood island

rocks

Woodcock landing •

181

156

. 80

. 83

- 96
142, 148

• 132

- 15
'-M,98
-•15. 86

- 91

- 17

- U
44, 57, 97

. 44
122, 134
- 21, 100, 106
-7,21, 75,104
. 18
. 73

• 40

- 7«

- 27
78, 156

• 119

- 85

- 90

- 96
25

t
■ 47

172

INDEX.

Work channel
Wreck point
Wright sound

X:<cliwau

Tnge

. 67

Ya-koun liver

■ 103

Yiit-za viihige

35,85

YfUocki villagf

Yolk point -

York island -

• UC

Ziijna islniMi

Page

> 148

149, 150

- 98

38,86

• 109

73, U5

LONDON:

I'rinted by Gkoiioe K. H. Evui; and William Spottiswoodb,

Printers to the Queen's most Kxcellent Majesty.

For Her Majesty's Stationery Office.

[N;373.— 5}(i.— (J'e.'l.]