IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^.%^ V' ^ M. ^^ A :a 1.0 I.I 1.25 \^ |2.8 - 6" 2.5 IM 20 1.8 U il.6 V] *. vj* .'>. ^t y /^ Photographic Sciences ion 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSi'£R,N.Y. MSBO (71* ) 872-4503 4 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 4 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute hf.s attempted to obtain the best original copy at/ailable for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ D Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or '"minated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pelliculde I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque □ Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur n n D Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ D Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas M filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires: L'Institut a microfilmd le meilleur Gxemplaire qu'il lui a 6X6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exempiaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthod'i normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ u Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/oi Pages restaur^es et/ou pelliculees Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages d6color6es, tachet^es ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages ddtach^es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Qualiti fndgale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel suppl^mentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible I — I Pages damaged/ I — I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~7l Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ ryi Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ I — I Only edition available/ Pages wholly or partially obscured by errita slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film^es 6 nouveau de fapon 6 obtenir la meilleure image possible. Th« to t The poa oft filnr Ori| beg the sioi oth firs sior or i The sha TIN whi Mai diff enti beg righ reqi met This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessouo. 10X 14X 18X 22X C y 12X 16X 20X 26X 30X 24X 28X D 32X L^> ails du difier Line lage The copy filmed hnre hat been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping v^;th the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAca A la ginArositA de: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbiu Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la conditic.-i et de la nettetA de l'exemplaire iWmi. et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimAe sont film4s en commen^ant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film^s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole -♦• signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s d des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la m^thode. r««ta lelure, I d J 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 T V Vt. ^Tl 1"' I I \ •■ I A X "[ 11 I I p.: ( VANCOUVER ISLAND PILOT. SUPPLEMENT. COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA FROM QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO PORTLAND CANAL, INCLCDING QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. COMriLED CHIEFLY FROM ADMIEALTY SURVEYS. rUBLISUED BY OBDER Or TUE LOBDS COMMISSrONEKS OF THE ADMIRALTY, \ \ .1 LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMIRALTY. AM> SOLD BY J. D. POTTER, Agent fob thh sale of Admiralty Charts, 31, POULTRY, AND 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 1883. Price Three Shillings, I ^1 i^j'* ADVERTISEMENT. I ^' \ 5 M The Vancouver Island Pilot Supplement contains sailing direc- tions for the coast of Biitish Columbia between Queen Charlotte sound and Portland canal, and for the adjacent inner channels. Also a description of Queen Charlotte islands. Those relating to the coast of British Columbia and the inner channels have been chiefly derived from surveys conducted by StafF-Commander D. Pender, R.N., during the yeai*s 1864-70, under the directions of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. The descriptions of Queen Charlotte islands have been derived from the Report on those islands by G. M. Dawson, Esq., F.G.S., published by the Government of Canada, 1880, to which has been added the published directions resulting from a visit of H.M.S. Virago in 1853, In this Supplement, the most recent information derived from the Remark books of Officers of Her Majesty's ships, and from other sources has also been embodied. F. J. E. Hyd. graphic Office, Admiralty, London, June 1883. Q SOie. Wt. 14378. aS M mi»m^BlkmmU}i\ im\v*\m ^"■■"■"■wpp*^ / i 4 ',( f' CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. INNER CHANNELS.-M5UEEN CHAELOTTE SOUND TO SEAPORTH '.r CHANNEL, General remarks. Shadwell passage. Cape Caution. Sea Otter group South passage. Smith sound Alexandra passage. Beaver passages. Long point Takush herbour. Fitz-Hugh sound Cape Calvert. Schooner retreat Safety cove. Coldstream harbour. Namu harbour Burke channel. Lama passage. Cooper inlet - McLaughlin bay. Bella Bella islands. Klick-Tso-Atli harbour. Gun boat passage -.---.. Seaforth channel. Kynumpt harbour. Cod bank. Anchorage CHAPTER II. MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. Landmark)!. Discovery rock. Vancouver rock Cross ledge. Beaver bank. Price island Directions approaching Millbank sound. Mathieson channel. St. John harbour. Anchorage. Caution .... Port Blakeney. Tides. Supplies. Directions. Morris bay. Direc tions. Anchorage --..-. Alexandra passage. Schooner passage, Finlayson channel - Cone island. Carter bay. Hie Kish narrows - - - Klemtoo passage. North passage. Tolmie channel. Graham reach Fraser reach. Wark island. McKay reach. Wright sound - Holmes bay. Promise island. Coghlan anchorage. Tidal streams Grenville channel. Lowe inlet - . - - - Klewnuggit inlet. Stuart anchorage - - - . False Stuart anchorage. Kennedy island. Arthur passage Lawson harbour. Chismore passage. Malacca passage. Skeena river Telegraph passage. Port Essington • - . . . CHAPTER III. Page 1-6 6-8 8-10 10-12 12-14 14-16 16-18 18-19 20-22 22-23 24-26 26-28 28-29 30-32 32-34 34-36 36-38 39-40 40-42 42-43 44-46 46-47 CHATHAM SOUND, EDYE AND BROWN PASSAGES AND DIXON ENTRANCE. Chatham sound, general remarks. Landmarks, Dangers. Soundings. Anchorages - - - - • -« - 48-^0 f' VI CONTENTS. Southern portion. Tsimsean peninsula. Metlah-Catlah, Duncan bay. Tides .....-.- Tree bluff. Big bay, directions - . - . . Burnt cliff island. Finlayaon island. Pearl harbour - . . Sparrowhawk rock. Cunningham passage. Port Simpson. Directions Inskip passage. Fort Simpson. Indian villages. Climate. Tides - Prescott and Stephens islands. Edye passage. Gijschen island. Re- fuge bay. Tides .-..-.- Brown passage. Qlawdzeet anchorage. Tides ... Dundas islands. Moffatt islands ..... Hammond rock. Main passage. Oriflamme passage. Gnarled islands. Dixon entrance ....... Cape Fox. Lord islands. Tongas islands. Wales island Tides. Winds. Fogs. Climate .....* Page 50-66 56-58 58-59 60-63 63-67 67-70 70-72 72-73 74-76 76-77 77-79 "I CHAPTER IV. INNER WATERS. — LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. Laredo sound. Nab rock. North Bay islands. Directions. Laredo channel. Campania sound .---.- 80-84 Squally channel. Lewis passage. Farrant island ... 84-86 Union passage. Estevan sound. Campania island ... 86-88 Breaker point. Nepean sound. Otter passage. Principe channel . 88-90 Port Stephens. Mink Trap bay. Port Canaveral. Directions, Tides 90-93 CHAPTER V. OUTER COAST, CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. Calvert island. Hakai channel. Welcome harbour. Tides. Directions 94-97 Nalau passage. Queen's sound. Plumper channel. Hecate channel - 97-98 Bardswell group. Gander islands. Estevan island ... 99-101 Banks island. South rocks. Bonila island. Ogden channel - 102-106 Spicer island. Beaver passage. Schooner passage ... 106-107 Alpha bay. Soundings- ...... i08 CHAPTER VI. PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS AND PORTLAND CANAL. Portland inlet. Somerville island. Portland point. Nass bay - 109-112 Iceberg bay. Nass river. Observatory inlet .... 113-115 Salmon cove. Alice arm. Portland canal, Current. Climate. Supplies 115-118 Dog fish bay. Halibut bay. Centre islan'l. Pirie point. Round point. Salmon river. Anchorage - . . - . 119-124 "( CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTER VII. QUEEN CHARLOrrE ISLANDS. Pnge General remarks. Prevost island. Cape St. James. Houston Stewart channel, directions. Rose harbour. Moresby island - - 125-128 Carpenter bay. Collison bay. Skincuttle inlet. Burnaby strait and island. Skaat harbour ....-- 129-132 Juan Perez sound. Ramsay island, &c. Remarks. Lyell island - 1.32-134 Darwin sound. Tides. Shuttle island. Echo harbour. Klun Kwoi bay. Crescent islet. Laskeek bay. Richardson inlet. Tides - - 134-136 Dana and Selwyn inlets. Rockfish harbour. Cumshewa inlet, re- marks. Skidegate inlet and channel. Directions. Tides - - 137-143 The coast. Capes Ball and Fife. Rose point. Hecate strait. Masset sound and inlets. Virago sound .... - 143-150 Parry passage. North island. Cape Knox. Skidegate channel. Inskip and Moore channels. Mitchell harbour. Tasoo harbour. Supphes. Weather 151-156 / ^\ IMT THIS IXrORX THE BEABX170S ARE AXiX. IdAOWBTZC, EXCEPT WHERE MARRED AS TRVE. THE BXSTAHrCES ARE EXPRESSES ZIT SEA MZ&BS OF «0 TO A BECREE OP XiATITVBB. A CABXiE'S X.ENGTH XE ASSUMED TO BE EQVAl TO 100 FATHOMS. f- ,\ c .^°J3 C. Huvcouver Marui Pihtt Siij)pleuient- En^rcvt'ed, by iayves 3c I'ompajj.*' Iff ■i "pspr^""^"" i\ VANCOUVER ISLAND PILOT. Supplement. CHAPTER I. INNER ClIANNELS.—QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNKL. Variatiox in 1883. Queen Charlotte sound, 24° 20' E. | Seaforth channel, 25° 20' E. GENERAL REMARKS. — The inner channels, herein described, of tlie seaboard of British Cohiinbia afford amooth water, together with anchorages at suitable distances, for vessels of moderate length. These channels, therefore, offer facilities to steam vessels for avoiding the strong gales, and thick weather so frequently met with in Hecate Htiait. They are also available for fore-and-aft schooners, when navigating between Vancouver island and Alaska. Unless directed to the contrary, the mid channel is recommended to bo kept when navigating these inaer waters. SHAD WELL PASSAGE.*— Suwanee rock, on which the U.S. Steamship Sutvaneevfm wrcckcil in 1868, lies 95 fathoms W. by S. f S. (S. 70° W.) from the high-water mark of Centre island. It dries 4 feet at very low spring tides, and renders the passage west of Centre island, unsuitable for any but small vessels locally acquainted. * See Admiralty charts : — Vancouver island to Cordova bay, No. 2,430 j scale, w = 0*13 of an inch. Vancouver island, and vkws, No. 1,917 j scale, m = 0*I5of ah inch, (jolctas channel to Quatsino sound, No. .'k2 ; scale, m — O-H of an inch. Golctas channel. No. 555 ; scale, m = 2*() inches; and cape Taution to port Simpson, southern portion, No. 1,923 B; scale, »i°>U'25 of an inch. Q9016. Wt. 14373. j^ 1 — r ll 2 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEATORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i. Directions. — Tho south peak of Mngin saddle (on the west end of Galiano island) in line with the oast end of Centre island Ijcaring 8.S.E,, leads through tho northern entrance of Shadwell i:)apsagc, passing half a mile cast of cape James, (north-west point of entrance) and 1^ cables west of Breaker reef, in 9 to 17 fathoms water. Vessels that do not steer well are recommended to use Bate passage instead of Shadwell passage. Cape James should at all times be given a berth of at least half a mile. Pine and Storm islands. — These islands with their surrounding islets and reefs occujiy (he middle of the western approach to Queen Charlotte sound, and form the eastern margin of dangers between Shadwell passage and cape Caution. Pine island, bold, rocky, and covered with trees, about 250 feet high, is 4| miles N.E. by N. from cape .Tames. Storm islands, nre a narrow chain of islands lying in an East and West direction about 2 miles long, and form a most useful land-mark when crossing Qneen Charlotte sound. The western of these islands bears from Pino island N.W. by N. 3 miles ; frrm cape James N. f E. 6| miles : ind from cape Caution S.E. by S. distant 8 miles. There are no outlying dangers beyond 3 cables. Tho tops of the trees are from 150 to 200 feet high, and on the western part is a single tree which is conspicuous. Sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, lies about 5 miles N.E. of ShadwoU passage ; from the centre of the rock, Bright island bears S.E. ^ E., 1| miles, and Pine island, west 1^ miles. Sealed passage, •'j miles to the northward of Shadwell passage, between Pine island and Storm islands, is about 2^ miles wide, and has a reef (Blind reef) on which tho sea breaks in heavy weather, extending' nearly across ; close to the west edge of Blind reef there are 17 to 40 fathoms, rock. This passage should not be attempted. Reid island, the easternmost of the Storm islands, on the north side of Sealed passage, is about 300 /ards long E.N.E. and W.S.W,, and 150 yards broad, having a rock above water half a cable off its west end. Water can be obtained at the Indian fishing station on Storm islands. South rock, awash at low water, lies about ij miles north- eastward of Blind reef; from tho centre of this rock, Pine island bears S.W. by S. 3^ miles nearly, and Reid island W. ;^ N. I| miles. Middle rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is covered at three-quarters flood, and lies N. by W. one mile from South rock. 1 -i» ! I i«"w«i (/ CHAP. I.] <}HAJ)WELL PASSAGE. — SEA OTTER GUOXJP. 3 North rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is awash at higli water, and lies N.E. three-quarters of a mile nearly from JMidrlle rock. Harris islet a little open south of Janette island, bearing E. by S. J^ S., leads half a mile to the northward of North rock. CAPE CAUTION (Ka-Klees-la), the north-west entrance point of Queen Charlotte sound, is of moderate height and level, the tops of the trees being about 200 feet above the sea ; the shore is white, and of granite formation, with a few rocks off it ; the land north-east of the cape rises gradually in a distance of 5 miles to Coast nipple, 1,350 feet high, 2 miles to the eastward of which lies mount Robinson, 2,100 feet high. Soundings. — in a south-westerly direction, from cape Caution, at a distance of 3 cables there is a depth of 9 fathoms, rocky bottonti ; at one mile, 16 fathoms; at 1| miles, 43 fathoms, white sandy bottom ; thence for 7 miles in the same direction the average depth is 70 fathoms, rocky bottom. At 10 miles S.W. by W. from the cape and 2J miles S.E. ^ S. from Danger shoal, the water shoals to 40 fathoms dark sand, and again deepens to 80 and 90 fathoms a short distance to the southward. SEA OTTER GROUP,* consisting of several dangerous rocks, islets, and shoals which cover a space of about 12 miles in extent north and south and 10 miles in an east and west direction, lies at a distance of 6 or 7 miles from the seaboard of British Columbia, fronting the coast between capes Caution and Calvert. Danger shoal, on which the sea is reported to break in heavy weather, is the southernmost outlying danger of Sea Otter group, and lies W. by S. ^ S. 10^ miles from cape Caution ; near the centre of this shoal there is a depth of 9 fathoms, with 22 fathoms close aroimd. Shoaler water probably exists. Virgin rocks, near the western limit of the group, consist of three white rocks, tl.ti largest of which (50 feet high), lies N.W. by W ^ W. 7^ miles from Danger shoal, and West 17 miles from cape Caution. South- ward of these rocks the 30-fathom line is 4 miles, and in a westerly direction it is 6 miles distant : rounding the rocks the soundings should not be reduced to less than 30 fathoms. Watch rock, 74 feet high and black, lies near the northern limit of the group, N. | E. 7^ miles from Virgin rocks. The rock is steep-to. Pearl rocks, the northernmost of Sea Otter group, are comprised of several rocks above and below water, extending 1^ miles in a north-west * Sec Admiralty chart : — Approaches to Fitz-IIugh and Smith sounds, No. 2,448 ; scale, »i = 1 ■ inch. ▲ 2 4 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i. and south-east direction; the largest rock (15 feet high), lies E. by N. 3 miles from Watch rock, and the south-east rock, on which tlie sea always breaks, lies S.E. by E. one mile from the largest rock; there are 15 to 31 fatiioms water, close-to on the north side of Pearl rocks; and 70 to 80 fathoms just eastward of them. Devil rock, the north-eastern outlying danger, lies N.E. A E. 1^ miles from the largest Pearl rock ; and S.S.W. ^ W. nearly 3 miles from Sorrow islands. The sea seldom breaks on Devil rock, and there is apparently deep water close around. Ti»ere are from 80 to 40 fathoms between the rock and capo Calvert. NgW patcll, on which the sea generally breaks, is nearly 2 miles in extent, and lies S. by E. 4^ miles from the hvrgost Pearl rock. Ch.aiinel reef, the easternmost danger of Sea Otter gronp, has about 6 feet over it at low water ; from the centre of this reef, Table island, at the entrance of Smith sound, bears E. by N. ^ N. 4| miles and Egg island E. \ N. S'^^ miles. The sea seldom breaks on Channel reef, and there are 60 fathoms close eastward of it. Hannah, rock, the south-easternmost outlying danger, on which the sea is nearly always breaking, is situated about 2| miles soutli of Channel reef; Hannah rock is awash at high water, and from its centre, cupe Caution bears E. ^ S. 8 miles, Egg island N.E. by E. 5^ miles, and Danger shoal S.S.W. i W. 4i7ff miles. Clearing mark. — The south extremes of Egg and Table islands in line, bearing N.E. ^ N. leads clear to the south-eastward of Danger shoal, and all other dangers on the south-east side of Sea Otter group. SOUTH PASSAGE, leading to Smith and Fitz-IIugh sounds from the southward, lies between cape Caution and the south-east limit of Sea Otter group where it is about 7 miles broad, with irregular soundings varying from 34 to 74 fathoms. False Egg island, its own breadth open west of Egg island, bearing N. A. W., leads through South [lassage, nearly in mid-channel. Blunden bay, a slight bend in the coast between cape Caution and Neck point, at 1^ miles N.W. ^ N. from it, is about one mile wide at its entrance, and nearly a mile deep ; Indian cove, which lies in the nortluM-n part of this bay, affords good shelter for boats, it is the Indian rendezvous on their canoe voyages, when passing between Queen Charlotte and Fitz- Hugh sounds. Hoop reef. — From Neck point the coast trends N. by W. 2 miles to Good Shelter cove, midway between wnich lies Hoop reef, about one-thii-d of a mile from the shore ; this reef is threo-riuartcrs of a mile north-west and Hyuth-east, and one quarter of a mile broad. >^ CHAP. I.] SOUTH PASSAGE. — SMITH SOUND. 6 South Iron rock, on which the flea seldom breaks, lies three- quarters ol:" a mile to the westward of Hoop reef, and nearly 1^ miles N.W. \ W. from Neck point ; there are 35 fathoms close-to, on the nortl» side of tho rock, and 25 fathoms in the channel between it and Hoop reef. North. Iron rock, whicli dries 7 feet, lies nearly in the fairway of Alexandra passage, N.N.W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile from South Iron rock ; there are 7 to 9 fathoms close to, and uo bottom at 40 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of North Iron rock. Clearing marks. — False Egg island in line with West rock off Table island, bearing N. by W. ^ W., leads 4 cables west of South and North Iron rocks. The west extreme of Surf islet, and the small islands near the south point of Shower island in line N.E. by N., leads through Alexandra passage, between North Iron, and Egg rocks. SGG ISLAND, immediately fronting Smith sound, and standing boldly out from the coast, is the prominent landmark between Goletas channel and Fitz-IIugh sound. The island is 280 feet high, covered with trees, and is remarkable for its egg-like shape ; it lies N.W. ^ N. 5 miles from caps Caution. From the south-west side of the island rocks extend about a cable and on the east side lies a small island, whicli is < ► se[)arnt(Ml from F,gg island by a narrow gully, giving the appearance of a split in the island itself, when seen from north or south. Egg rocks, on the west side of Alexandra passage, are a cluster of rock:* lying nearly three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from North Iron rock, and S.S.E. about 2 cables from Egg island ; these rocks extend about a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and S.S E., the northernmost being 30 feet high. Denny rock, a sunken danger on which tho sea seldom breaks, and is a source of anxiety in thick weather, lies a quarter of a mile W.S.W. from the southernmost Egg rock. The west extreme of Ann island open west of Egg island bearing N. by E. leads about 3 cables west of Denny rock. SMITH SOUND lies 6 miles N.N.W. from cape Caution ; it is about 8 miles long N.E. and S.W., with an average breadth of 3^ miles ; the entrance, between Jones, and Long points being S^ miles across in a N.N.W. direction. At G miles within the entrance, on either side of a cluster of islands is a channel leading into Smith inlet. In almost every part of the sound the depths are over 40 fathoms, and there k generally a heavy swell. The south-east shore of Smith sound, for a distance of 4 or 5 miles from tho entrance, is fronted by several small islands and rocks having deep 6 QTJEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [chap. i. K. U i water close-to ; good shelter for boats will be obtained in a small cove about a quarter of a mile north of Jones point, the south entrance point of the sound, also in a cove one mile south of Jones point, abreast Egg rocks. The entrance to the sound is protected by a plateau, on which stands a collection of islands, islets, and rocks ; some above, and many under water, prominent amongst them being Egg and Table islands. Access to Smith sound may be had on either side of these islands. Alexandra passage.— The south passage, is between Egg island and the south-eastern point of entrance ; the narrowest part between Egg rocks and North Iron rock being 6 cables : here as elsewhere, however, the dangers are so steep-to that the (/uickest use of the lead is enjoined. A general leading mark through Alexandra passage (making allowance for heave of swell and tide), is, the west extreme of Surf island in line with the islets near the south point of Shower island bearing N.E. by N. Beaver passage. — The northern channel into Smith sound, is between the islands fronting the north point of the sound, and Wood and White rocks, th<^ northern and nortli-western extension of the above mentioned plateau. In Beaver passage the bottom is irregular, 20 fathoms being the least depth obtained. The course through the passage is E. ^ S., the east extreme of Search islands just open of the west end of Surf islet on that bearing, leads in midway between John reef (on south side) and False Egg island (on north side) where the width is 6 cables. This western entrance to the passage being the narrowest part ; with the usual amount of sea or swell, good steerage, and vigilant attention are required. Table island, the largest of the group of islands occupying the entrance to Smith sound, is about one mile long north and south, and half a mile broad, with the tops of the trees 120 feet above the sea, nearly fiat. Table island when seen from abreast cape Caution makes with two summits. A cluster of rocks, several of which are covered at low water, extend half a mile from the west side (a Table island, having 24 fathoms water close to the outer rock. Ann island, about half a mile in extent, is separated from the north end of Table island by a channel (a cable wide in some parts) in which shelter will be found for boats. CLUSTER REEFS, consisting of several rocky heads and shoal patches, extend from Table island in a northerly and northwesterly ■IDI *«i«i^^«MWaHi CHAP. I.] ALEXANDllA PASSAGE. — LONG POINT. 7 direction into tlio entrance of Smith sound. George rock, on which the seu breaks at low water, is the north-westernmost, and lies N. by W. J W. one mile from Ann island ; Edward reef dries 7 feet, and lies E.N.E. three- qnarters of a mile nearly from George rock. Wood rocks, which are awash at low water, situated E. by N. a quarter of a mile nearly from Edward reef, consist of three rocky heads, and are the north-easternmost of Cluster reefs. Bertie rock, with 3^ fathoms water, lies near the eastern edge of Cluster reefs ; from the centre of this rock the north-west extreme of Ann island bears S.W. J S. distant nearly three-quarters of a mile. The west extreme of False Egg island in line with Kelp head, bearing N. I W., leads to the westward ; and Limit point, midway between Long and Shower islands, E. by N. J N., leads to the northward of Cluster reefs. White rocks, 35 feet high, and very conspicuous, lie in the west entrance of Beaver passage, at 3^ miles N. by W. \ W. fi'om Egg island, and nearly one mile north-west of Cluster reefs. John reef. — At 3 cables N.N.W. J W. from White rocks and 6 cables S. by W. J W. from False Egg island, lies John reef, which dries 3 feet at low water, with 9 to 20 fathoms close around ; forming the north-western danger, on the south side of Beaver passage. Leading mark. — The east extreme of Search islands just open south of the west end of Surf islet (east side of Smith sound) bearing E. ^ S., will lead 3 cables to the northward of John reef, and into Smith sound through Bejiver passage. FALSE EGG ISLAND, resembling Egg island in shape, but smaller, is 150 feet high, it lies on the north side of Beaver passage, and is the outlying landmark for this northern entrance to Smith sound. James rock. — At about 3 cables W. ^ N. from False Egg island lies James rock, the exact position of which is somewhat doubtful ; the sea breaks on this rock at low water, and between it and False Egg island the bottom is foul. Clearing mark. — The west part of the large Canoe rock bearing North, or in line with Quoin hill (on Penrose island) passes three-quarters of a mile westward of James and John rocks, and leads clear westward of all dangers at the entrance of Smith sound. LONG POINT, the north-west point of Smith sound, lies E. by N. three-quarters of a mile from False Egg island ; Tie island, which is nearly a quarter of a mile in extent, lies close westward of Long point, and is separated from it by a boat passage, in which there is a depth of 4 fathoms; Ada rock, which is awash at low water, lies S.S.E, ^ E. 2 cables from Tie island. SSS3S 8 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL, [ciur, If j: Browne island, on tho north-east side of Beaver passage, lies S.E. i S. half a mile from Long point ; the island is 250 feet high, nearly half a milo long N.N.W. and S.S.E., anil a quarter of a mile broad, with 17 to 23 fathoms clos(i to its soiitii point. Between the south part of Browne island and Wood rockn, the eastern part of Beaver passage is 8 cables across with depths of 30 and 40 fathoms. Surprise patch, on the north side of Smith sound, lies N.E. by E. ^ E. 1^ miles from luc south extreme of Browne island; there is a depth of 5 fathoms on this patcli, 7 to 17 fathoms close around, and no bottom at 40 fathoms 2 cables to the northward. Judd rock, with less than 6 feet water, lies N.E. by E. J E. three- quarters of a mile from Surprise p.T,tch, and W. by N. three-quart^irs of a mile from Long island, the largest of the Barrier islands; there is no bottom at 40 fathoms in the vicinity of this rock. Barrier islands, '^^ the head of Smith sound, consist of two large and several small islarils covering a space of about 5 miles in extent N.E. and S.W. Blakeney passage on the north, and Browning passage on the south side of these islands and leading to Smith inlet, are each about one mile wide, witii no bottom at a depth of 41) fathoms. TAKUSH HARBOUR, on the south shore of Smith sound, •J miles within the entrance, and 1| miles east of Barrier islands, is 2 miles long, north-east and south-west, and one mile broad. This is the only anchorage Avhich a ship can resort to for shelter when crossing Queen Charlotte sound. Vessels of large size can lie secure here. The entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, with r.o bottom at 39 fathoms, decreasing to 22 fathoms, rock, in the centre of Ship passage, which is 2^ cables wide, and is formed by Gnarled islands on the west, and Fish rocks (dry 3 feet at low water) on the east side.'* Petrel shoal, witli lo I'cet water, situated one cable S.S.E. | E. from the easternmost Gnarled island, is the principal danger in rounding int' Anchor bight. Ply basin, at the head of Takush haibour, perfectly land-locked, is about one mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and one to 2 cables broail, with 2^ to 3 fathoms in the western and 6 to 8 fathoms in the eastern part of the basin. The entrance to Fly basin, which is about one cable wide, is con- tracted to a quarter of a cable by a shoal extending from the east entrance point, with a rock (dry 2 feet at low water), and a patch of 9 foet on its western edge ; between this shoal and the west entrance point there is a depth of 9 fathoms. If required a small vessel could be taken into Fly basin. * See Admiralty plan : — Tiikush hurboar, on sheet Approaches to Fitz-Uugh and Smith «ouud8, No. 2,448 ; scale m <= 1*0 inch. i \ CHAP, i] TAKUSH HARBOUR. — PITZ-HUGIl SOUND. 9 Anchorage in i'akush harbour will bo found in 10 or 11 fathomp, mud, in Anchor bight, midway betwoon Ship rock and Steep point, with the north extreme of Bull point bearing N.E. by E. ^ £•> o'»l *-'ti«t extreme of Bloxham point N. by K. .^ E. TidOS. — It is high water, full and change, in Taku.'»h harbour at Ih. Oni. ; Hi)rings rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet. Directionc. — When bound to Takush harbour, it is recommended to pass through IJrowniiig passage, and, after passing Xorth point keep the north extreme of Bright island a little open north of that point bearing W. by S. \ S., until Berry point (south side of Fly basin) appears mid- way between the entrance points of Fly basin, S.E., which will lead through Ship passage; and when Steep point is well open of the southern- most Gnarled island bearing W.S.W. a course may be steered for the anchorage in Anchor bight, taking care to avoii* the shoal ground south of Gnarle