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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la rr^ithode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 K c c E- (>: s I m HI i GUIDE BOOK TO THE ntmolonial :YaihtJair. Sketches of Scenery AND A OENV.HAL DESCRII'TION OF TJIK PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST Al.OXG THE ROUTE. Montreal 1877. aXMi Wif ^ .tfwMrat!g»ga?E; f X5"/ ^"877 MDWit Allison 149731 •{^"iSf PREFACE. The IiittMX'olonial Railway, vvliich waw oj)cno(l for | iiblic tratiic on tlio 3r(l July, 187(5, paH8cy through a country but little known. Thiw (luide Boyk lias, accoi'dingly, been written for the purpose of pointing out the partic'uUu's ot'tlie vai'ied scenery along the line — the great variety of fiisliing, from the noble salmon weighing 40 lbs. or more, to the speckled trout — and the new places where cool breezes and sea-bathing may be found in the hot and sultry months of summer. The I'ailway has been built by the Clovei-n- nient of Canada. All of the materials used in its construction are of the best description. It is laid throughout with Bessemer steel rails, ■..,■■„ ..i.ti*wiiiftnuWif »i»»Hfcy-*w"ir] N-v^rr^a'm.^tt IV PREFACE. importo» i l iM i |il iii |BMB IIW tJM£! l l i M^^ 1^^ I { \i I ''. lii TABLE OF IJISTANC;KS. STATION TO STATION. MILKS. Montreal to Quel)ec 172 Quebec to Riviere-du-Loup ' 126 I Riviere-clu-Loup to Rimouski ! GG Rimouski t<> Campbellton , Cami)bellton to Bathurst . Batluirst to Miramichi. Chatham Branch Miramichi to Moncton Moneton to Point du Chene * Moneton to St. John . Moncton to Amherst Amherst to Truro Truro to Halifax Truro to Pictou f 123 G3 44 9 78 19 89 49 / i 01 5'^ * Steamers from ^^ere to Sununerside, on Prince Edward Lsland. t Steamers from here to Charlottetown, I'riJit'e Edward Island. H } k"V- tfv >5 O H W < o k3 STAT 1U\ 3 8 li) 10 y 11 10 s y 10 10 8 18 15 10 10 I Y. NCE HTATI(»N. c;ton..., phieyH. . . , J JILNC. ter Kdiid iliac u Clieiiu ..• ■ ' jviucook Jiester ivville. . ••ilac .. ■I pan . ill. bca: lliol ^ Hill. ipriiigs , Philip oril. . . ii. iville . vvortli . Lake. nderry )ert . . . ))ni!5li. . JRO.. X I ^ l-H H 1)I.STA.N .STATION H i 5 P 3 8 i H 1 1 • lollMstoll, . . . Hiuuktield . . . . . I'olly lii.g . . . . . Stewiacki' . . .. SliiilttMiacailie. Milt"(»i(l .. . . . . . .Klnisdale . . . KiitioM.... . . . DaktioM . . . . . (ii'aiMl Lake . . . . Wellington . ..Wiiul8(»r June. ... lUteky Lake.. Bedfonl.... , Four Mile Houhi: ...HALIFAX. TKUIU).... Valley . . .... Union .... . . . Iliver.sdale. . . . . West Kiver. . . . . (ilengarry . . . . . .Hopewell. .. . . . .Stellarton . .. . . New (llasgow. .l*iet(tu Landing FKTOU... r^ NAMES OF STATION o H h-3 ►J H W O o Oh G Q P^ DISTANCE STATION TO STATION. r 6 3 8 10 9 10 9 11 10 8 9 10 10 f- 8 13 15 10 10 13 RIVIERE-DU-LOUP > Cacouna St. Arsene Isle Verte . . . • Trois Pistoles .St. Simon St. Fabien Bic Rimouski St. Luce .. ..ST. FLAVIE... I St. Octave Tartague Sayabec Cedar Hall Amqui Casaupscal . . Assametquaghan . . Mill Stream Metapediac ... . .. CAMPBELLTOiV. . O O o o :^ o H 1-2 >A W PL, < DISTANCE STATION TO STATION. 9 10 6 9 9 8 12 13 10 11 10 () 4 11 9 11 9 9 11 8 . CAAIPBELLTON . . . . , Dalhousie . . Charlo . . . New Mills . . . . Jacquet River. .... Belledune . . . . . Petite Roche . Bathurst . . - Red Pine. . . .... Bartibogue . . . . . Beaver Brook. . . MIRAMICHI . . Chatham June . . Bariiaby River Forest .... Ferris .... . . . . Weldf ord . . . . . Coal Branch . Canaan .... .. Berry's Mills .. . ... MONCTON.. ^2; W o 1-5 H I— I < O H ;^ O H Q O STATIC 10 3 5 5 6 9 4 3 5 6 6 1 4 5 5 3 2 1 2 1 .Bo N ..SA STATIONS ON THE RAILWAY o 1-5 H < o O H O o DISTANCE STATION TO STATION. 10 3 5 5 6 9 4 3 »» o 6 6 1 4 5 3 2 1 2 1 . ...MONCTON.. .Boundary Creek . . . . Salisbury . . . . Pollet River . . . . . Petitcodiac . . . . . . Anagance . . . . . . Penobsquis . . . . . Pluniweseep. Sussex .... Apohaqui . . Norton . . . Bloomfield . . . . . Passekeag . . . . . Hampton . . . Nauwigewauk . . . Quispamsis . . . . . Kothesay . . . . . Riverside . . , . . Tor ry burn . . . . , Brookville . . . . , Moosepath . . .SAINT JOHN O H ft < ;^ W Q l-H o o H O O DISTANCE STATION TO STATION. 2 c 5 4 2 . ...MONCTON..., . . ..Humphreys.. . , PAINSEG JUNC. 7 8 12 3 .Dorchester Koad, , Shediac . Point du Chene .Meadow Brook . . Memrtimcook . . . Dorchester .... Sackville. . Aulac . . . ...AMHERST. Nappan., . Maccan. . . Athol . . . . ..Spring Hill. . . Salt Springs . . River Phdip . . . . Oxfijrd. . . .... Thomson . . . . . Greenville . .. .Went worth . . . .Folly Lake. . . Londonderry Del)ert . . . . . ..Ishgonish. . ....TRURO.. l-H o O H O A- o H O H DISTANCE STATION TO STATION 4 4 tar 4 5 4 ^ o 2 3 2 2 8 o Art 3 4 .... TRURO. . . Johnston. . , . . . Brooktield . . . . . Polly Bog . . . . . Stewiaeke . . .. Shuljenacadie. Miir..'»*d .... . . ..Elmsdale . . . Enfield.... . . , . Oaktield . . . . . Grand Lake . . . . Wellington . ..Windsor June. ... Rocky Lake.. Bedford.... ..Four Mile House ..HALIFAX. TRURO.... ^"alley . . .... Union .... . . . Riversdale. . . . . West River. . . . . Cllengarry . . . . . .Hopewell. .. . . . Stellar ton . . . . New Glasgow. .Pictou Landing ....PICTOU... «H GUIDE BOOK TO THE ir !tnii|r(0lotttal iailttratt. CHAPTER I. • Confederation. — The Construction op the Interco- lonial Railway one of the terms op Union. Some years ago, partly on account of the policy of Gveat Britain, and partly owing to political combina- tions in this country, it was deemed advisable to bring about a union of the whole of the British North American Colonies, so as to form a power in North America, self-sustaining, British in sentiment, and governed by rules derived from the 'British Constitu- tion. In the American Colonies, national aspirations were rapidly developing themselves, and these, no doubt, strengthened the political causes which were at work, and so helped to bring about that union under which British North America now exists. In order to unite these Provinces, of which the m<«tli^rjfVffrr/^::j- \ i yfk r ^ , n, mif*ir^ w ^ mi m av i m »i GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEUtOLONJAL IJAILWAY. Maritiiiio groiij» was otlicnvise tlisjoiritod from the rest, R railroad, wliicli would serve as a material boml be- tween them, and give to all aceess to the ocean, during the winter, upon exclusive! v ( 'anadian territory, was. deemed an essential part oi' the i)o]itical scheme. \ survey of such a road, intended to extend from St. Andrews, N.B., to Quehee, had heen, many years before, undertaken under the superintendence of Major Yule, of the Royal Engineers, and altluyugh the enterprise was originated and exi)ected to be carried out by a Joint Stock Comi)any, for commercial piuposes principally, it received the approbation of the British Government, and ai)peared to promise a suecessful issue. The dis- pute about the Maine and New Brunswick boundary, however, in 1839 and 1840, interruj)ted the progress of the plan. The United States Govcrimient claimed the territory through which the contemplated railroad was. to pass, and eventually obtained the concession of a large part of it; )>ut the idea of forming a railway connection, between New Brunswick and Canada, was not al>andoned. The British Government had lor some time enter- tained an idea of the necessity of constructing a military road from HiUifax to Quebec. Lord Durham urged upon that Government the substitution of a rail' .^(j jj^ i»lace of an ordinary military road, but for s ' .eason his proposition was not acted upon. For some years nothing was done in tin; matter, but in 1845 i ■i \ i 4V INTHOnCCTION. the quoKticdi was revived, the Governor of Nova Scotia l)aving- in that year applied to the British Govern- ment for the nomination of a romi)etent Board of Military Engineers to conduct a survey at the expense either of the Imperial or Colonial Governments. To this application tlio Imperial Governnumt f?ave a fa- vorable reply, hut refused to grant pecuniary assistance. The Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Canadian Gov- ernments, however, accepted the services of the Engin- eers appointed, and a survey of a line from Halifax to Quebec, through the northern part of New Brunswick, was commenced in 184G, under the direction of Major Robinson. H.E., and finislied in 1848. Three vears after its completion, chiefly through the exertions of the Hon. Joseph Howe, the British Government was in- duced to modify their former policy, and to offer an Imperial guarantee of the cost of building the road. But new difficulties arose, and the matter remained in abeyance. It was revived in 1852, when Messrs. Hincks, Young and Tache, once more called the at- tention of the Maritime Provinces to the subject. Their proposition was favorably received in New Brunswick, and the Governments of that Province and of Canada agr ed to build a road through tlio St. John Valley, but, eventually, the Imperial Government refused the guarantee to tlie new route, which was reluctantly abandoned. From that time to 1800, negotiations were renewed mmmm m GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. from time to time, witli a view to conjoint action on the part of the three Provinces ; and in 18G2-3 tlie scheme assumed, for a time, a more favorabki asi)ect ; tlien, however, came up the project of a political union, hastened by a crisis in the Canadian Legishi^uro, In 1864, and after many tentative movements, dele- gates from all the Provinces assembled at Quebi-c, and passed a series of resolutions, oin' of which reads us follows : — ••' The General Government shall secure, without delay, the completion of the Intercoloniiil Kiiilway from Rivierenlu-Luup, through New Brunswick, to Truro, in Nova Hcotia." This resolution was subse(]uently embodied in the Act of the British Parliament forming the present Dominion of Canada ; and untler the authoiity thus given, the road was commenced in 1869, and opened for traffic throughout on the 3rd July, 187G. The Intercolonial llailway extends for 178 miles in the Province of Quel)ec, and crossing into New Brunswick at the confluence of the Metapedia and the Restigouche, runs through that Province a dis- tance of 241 J miles. At the River Missiquash it passes into Nova Scotia, to terminate at Truro, a distance of eighty miles, joining at that place the line constructed previous to Confederation between Trino and Halifax. The greatest altitude reached by the line is in the Province of Quebec. This is at Lake INTRODUCTION. Mrtlfat, 108 miles from rtivicvc-du-Loup, and 743 feet above the level of the^^ea. Nova Scotia ranks next to Queln^c in ])oint of altitude, a hei|4:ht of 610 feet above tlie sea beinj:? attiiiiKjd at Folly Lake, in the Cobeciuid Mountains, twenty-four miles west of Truro ; while the liigliest elevation in New Brunswick, 514 feet, is at Uartibogue, about hilf way between Bathurst and Miramichi. At the Ilivcr PKistigouche, the boundary between Quebec and New Brunswick, and at the River Missi(|uash, the l)0undary of Nova Scotia, the road is l)ut little above tide water; at the former less than forty feet ; at the latter less than ten feet. The levels near the extreme ends of the line — Truro and Rlviere-y which means railway connection between St. John and Halifax was ^attjiined. At the north, the distance from Riviere-du-Louj) to St. Flavie, eighty- six miles, was opened in August, 1874. Between Campbelltown and Moncton, 185 miles, trains have been running since last winter. The remaining sections have since been completed, and in June last the first through train passed over the road. The total length of the Intercolonial, from Riviere- s GUIDE LOOK TO THE INTEItCoLOMAI- IIAII.WAY. du-Lctup to Halifax, is 561 iiiilts. The St. John branch is ei^hty-nim' miles long, tiii- Pictoii Itraiith titty-two, ami the Shodiac luamh eleven miles, making a total of 713 miles. • The Intercolonial is, heyoml a l)ility of such obstructions, however, has been taken into the fullest consideration, and provision has been made to ])revcnt the road from being blocked up by snow, by the erection of fences in the most exposed places, and the construction of sheds over cuttings where the snow might be expecte (MIAI»TKU II. - KlVlERE-DU-Loll' TO S'ffi. FlAVIE, llivierc-(ln-L()iip, pleasantly situated on tlic river of the same name, a short distance above the p(Mnt xvhen^ it enters the St. Lawrence, is tlie eastern terminus of the Grand Trunk Kailway, and flic western terminus of the Intercolonial. From the station the traveller obtains a charminj^ view of the sui rounding country. Th<' river in front, rusliinu' impetuously over huge boulders of rock, creating a wild din, like the sullen murmur of distant tlnnuler ; the neighboring ranges of hills clothed with trees anplej and convey outwards the rich and varied prodtKtions of the Dominion ; a range of mountains brok(Mi l>y (U^ep ravines and narrow gorges, rising abruj)tly from its northern shore -all constitute a scene impressive in its gran«leur and ro- mantic in its general appearance. The populati(m of the vilkage is only about l,f)00, but during the summer and fall months it is visited mmm hy Inrpc nnnilxTK of tourists nnd invalids, being ft splciiilid watering' idiicc, with Imtliinfr, boiitinjj: and lisiiiii^'- riicilitics in its ininu'diatf nciKld>orlio()i)eaiance of life or verdure, and the huge limestone rocks protrude into the gloomy air. white and bleached. For awful sav- ageness and sullen gloom, the Styx, famous in classic lore, could not have been more imi)iessive, and the substitution by the Saguenay boatmen, of a barque de vapaiir, belching forth flame and smoke for the frail skiff of the fabled ferryman of old, does not decrease the sombre grandeur of the scene. About six miles above the mouth of the Saguenay is situated Tadousac, which contains the re mains of one of the oldest Catho- lic Churches on the (ontinent. Here are to be found * ' ^ w^ 1^ i' tf iMvii:KK-F)r-Lon' to htk. flame. 11 u VHMt iiuinlMT of cnrioHitlcH of mineral formatloit, wliilc tlicfiKhiTi^ JK (xcollrnt, nnd in now luiig mnch iiii|»r<)V»(| liy tin: opcrjitioii of the (tovciinntnt tish- l»i('<'(liiin csliiltiislimcnt in the vicinity. 'J'lu' drives aio loniuntir. (Iir seem ry i« l>oI uf that i^^cnia! chisH of the oM- tashjoncd Fr»n(h-( 'nnadian race, always in jxood hninor, al\Mi3's ready to oblige, and, it njiist l>e confessed, not particniarly ^iven to maUin*;- extra^a^,^ant demands upon those wJMi patronize tluin. Fruits of several classi'S are j>r(»fiise, and those trailinjr flowers and shrubs, which are indij.?enous to a ni<»untainoiis s<'ction, are plentiful, and upon the whole, obtainable in a com- paratively easy manner. The water is brackish, the air salt, and the l»athing^ood, the whole condiininj;- to maki'Tadousaca nu»st health-i,nvin^' summer residence. The 'I'adousae Hotel is amply provided with all neces- sary comfort, and is well conducted by Mr. Fennell, a jjjentlennin favorably known in connection with the establishment. At Uiviere-du-Loup there are several hotels, the principal being " La Kochelle's'' and " Le- mi«'ux's," both of which are ably < onductid by their resix'ctive manfiucrs. In the river there is excellent trout fishing, and occasionally some salmon are canght in it. Th<: villagt; is the terminus of the Madawaska road, Avhich communieates with Edmonston, N.B., by the St. John Valley. It will also bi' the terminus of the N. 1). and Uiviere-du-Loup R. R., when compk-ted. 12 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY, t8ix iiiik'S IVom Kiviere-chi-Loup is Cacoima, the most lasliioiiaMe Avatering place in the Dominion, and jiistl)^ deseiving tlie designation of the Saratoga of Canada. It is a lieaiititul village about two miles from the station, situated on the soiitli shore of the St, Lawrence, within the seigniory of Le Pare, in the connty of Temisconata. Its healthy situation, attract- ive scenery, and iint^ shore, naturally adapted for Lath- ing, make it a most desirable summer resort, Avhile for transient visitors it has many attractions, chief among them l)eing the excellent fishing in the neighl>orhood, and its ( asy access to the north shore of the St. Law- rence, where some of the most interesting, scenes in the Province can be visited, i)aiticularly along the route of the Saguenay. 'J'he hotel accommodation is unrivalled in any town of the same size in Canada, the St, Lawrence Hall, capable of accommodating 500 guests, being a remarkably fine structure, situated in a com- manding position in tlu' centre of the village, and Avell suited for the nxiuirements t)f tourists and health seekers. Then- are several other hotels in the place, and a number of handscjme residences, erected by Quebec and Montreal gentlemen. The population is only about (500, but during the summer it swells up to 2,000, aniMliiiiUI"litfi(-f»1ft I , crectrd on the Island. Tliis place looks very i)i<'tty in tlu' summer, ■svhcn the trees are clothed with foliage, and tlie fields miintled with all descriptions of cer.'al and vegetable products. ]]etween Isle Verte and Trois Pistoles, tli(! tahh'- hiiid is intei'sected l)y the deep ra^ inr fornnd l>y tiie .stream of the Trois P.'stoles River. The avenige width hetweeii the hanks at the top is three liumlred feet ; tiie stream at the bottcmi is one hundred tVM,'t v.ide, and the ravini' one liundred and fifty feet deep. Jt is ciossed' l>y a handsome ii'on bridge of live s])ans. the jtiers la-ing substantially built of limestone obtnincd from a (|uany in the \icinity. Ther<' 's a lumber mill on tlic river. a slioi t distance above the bridg<', ffom which c<»nsid- eral)le (piantities of timber are shijiped to Enro[)e every si.'ason. The sei-n.-iy along the river is very tine. Between the bridge and the village there is an immense; cutting of clay, of a putty-like character, tlirough which great dilfieulty was ex])ei'ieneed in constructing tiie road. A heavy embankment of similar material on the wt;st side of the river '-slides" occasionally, generally after he.ivy rains, and sometimes blocks the travk. It is intended, this summer, to remove the toj) part of the embankment, which will obviate the present dilfieulty. Trois Pistoles has a ih)1)U- lation nf 1.000. mostly French-Canadians. There are two good hotels in the place — D'amour's and Ga- rants — wliich an- geni'rally pretty full during the I t c c o c 16 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEIJCOr.ONIAL RAILWAY. summer. The scenery in the neighborhood is wild and rugged, and the vilhige lias a good reputation as a watering place. Oi>p()site it there is a very pretty island, which is a source of great danger to shii)s nav- igating the Gulf. Several shipwrecks liave recently occured on it. The Sagucnay River is directly opposite Trois Pistoles, and can he reached after a pleasant three hour's sail across the St. Lawrence. The inhabit- ants are not behind their neighbours, a^ far as entcu- prise is concerned ; in the village there are flouring, carding and dyeing mills. In the immediate vicinity is Lake 8t. Simon, in which trout, varying from half a pound to three pounds in Aveight, can be caught in large (luantities. Cabs can be hired in the village on very r(!asonable terms. xVt Trois Pistoles there is a most commodious and well-kept refreshment room, where excellent meals arc served. Nine miles below Trois Pistoles is St. Simon, the first parish in tlu' County of Rimouski. The jjopula- tion is only about 300, but with the facilities provided by the completion of the Railway, it is expected in a feAv years to become a point of considerable importance, the soil being remarkably fertile, the climate healthy, and the district surrounding it intersected by numerous streams, abounding with trout. A mail is delivered daily. The people are, for the most part, French- Canadians. The next station is St. Fabien, ten miles from St. I ■ A 'P > ( Ifc M O w f In ^^liipl- 1 „ 'lU ill ' Iw'%'f'^^ !I|.M !ii;'lt f. i|:i=!s u. i ■I'! ;i|il!!;'|l,|i uia jJliCH*^ C Simon. The village and the surrounding district i)rc'S(.'nt a most charming appearance ra\vling Itrook"" to modi'rately sized streams, pourtlieir waters intotl)e St. Lawrence. The po]>ulation of liie is about TO(i. If has a good local trade. The Kailroad jiasses right through tiie village, and till' inhal>itants aiv thus enabled, with the greatest conv< nience, to forward tiieir surplus productions to luarkit. The road enters the village round the (.'d'^re of ]>ic mountain through a deep cutting ; in several places the rock rises fully two hundrt'd feet on both sides of the track, nearly hanging over the carriages. The construction of the line in this neighborhood cost an immense amount of money. At one time it was proposed to bore a tunnel through the mountain, i «■ ■" "'"^-''imn iMiiiTr 20 UUIDE BOOK TO TIIK I.NTKUCOLONIAL HAH-WAY. _l but owing to the geological forimition of tlu- liingc, and tlu! increased outlay which such a work would in- volve, the idea was aluindoued. Tlu' scenery in the neighborhood is charming, and since the completion of th • Intercolonial, a large number of lots have been l)urchased along the track by IMontreal and (^lebec gentlemen, on which they intend erecting nuigniticent summer residences. Hatey Kiver and Bay arc; three miks distant from Bic Tlie scenery througlumt, more especially along tlu' river, is lovel>', and should attract a large number of tourists, trow that the access to it is rendered so easy by the completion of the Intercolonial. The inluiliitants of Bic are content to quench their thirst with the unj)olluted waters of the surrounding springs, there being no establishment in the place — not even a drug store — in which beer can be purchased, not to talk of the more potent stim- ulants Avhich sometimes refresh but generally pros- trate the energies and blast the i)rosi)ects of ordinary mortals. The hotel accommodation is very deficient at present, but will doubtless be improved when the beauties of the surrounding country are better known. The Montreal Tidegraph Company has an office in the viUage. Opposite Bic is L'Islet on Massacre, about three miles long by three-fourths of a mile broad. A deed of blood marks the spot, and history furnishes the details of the terrible catastrophe. About two centuries ago two hundred Micmac Indians were ♦ lUVlKHE-nU-LOUP TO STE. PLAVIE, 21 cfimping on the island for tlie niglit ; the canoes liad l)!'(n btachc'd, and a neigliborinj? cavern offered an ap- ])arent]y secure resting place to the warriors, their wives and cliihhcn. Whilst wrapped in tlie arms of Morplu'us, durin.u' tlie still hours of night, a band of the Iroquois tribe surrounded the retreat of their ad- venturous and brave rivals, i)ilcd birch bark faggots around it, and, des]ierate to revenge the wrongs inflict- ed upon them, they applied the torch to the combus- tible heap and in an instant the cave was surrounded by a circle of fierce fire. The Micmacs, terror stricken, seized their arms and prepared to rush through the flames and to sell their lives as dearly as possil)le, but a shower of poisoned arrows mowed them down, the tomahawk completed the fiendish work of destruction, and history mentions but five, out of the two hundred, who escaped with their lives. Bleached bones, sup- posed to be those of the unfortunate warriors, have lately been found strewed through the cave, also ela- borately finished arrow-heads of flint. A short distance to the north of L'Islet ou Massacre, is Bicquette Island, about half a mile long by one (juaiter of a mile wide. Near its centre is a light-house, exhibiting a revolving white light ; a gun is fired every half-hour during fogs and snow storms. Bic is certain to become one of the most attractive summer resorts on the Lower St, Lawrence. Travelling- eastwards the next i)oint of importance reuc-Iu'il is llimouski. a liir,m<' aiirt flomisliiiifj: town fifty-four and-a-half miles Ixlow Rivic;rc-du-Loiii), en has, in the SLi*;iiiovy of St. Hainabc-. It was cicatctl a parish in 1835, is tliu capital of tiu- County of the same name, has a po}»ulation of about 1,500, and contains several handsome i)rivate residences, two colleges, three convents, a 1)ishoi)'s i)alace and the County buildings. The new convent and college, recently built, are very fine edifices, and reflect great credit upon the architects. The Riniouski River, which rises in two considerable branches in rear of the Seigniory and falls into the St. Lawrence, is a splendid stream for salmon angling. It is crossed at the west end of the village by a beautiful iron bridge, resting on four piers and two abutments. The scenery along the river is very pretty, and nothing can be more charm- ing than a drive along its banks on a fine summer evening, when a breeze is bloAving fresh enough to relieve the traveller of the tantalizing misery caused by th^ ubiquitous mosquitos. There is a large lumber- ing establishment on the river, about three miles from the town. A wliarf, three quarters of a mile long, has been constructed by the Government, about half way between Rimouski and Father Point, at which the English mails are landed and taken on board. This arrangement, which w^as only made when the Interco- lonial Railway was completed, will be of great advant- age to those engaged in the commerce of the country, k ! K iMiliiiiiiiaii 24 r.VlUK BOOK TO THK INTKOCOLONIAI, IIAII.WAV, UK tlic mails uic now (listriltutod sov<'val lionis cfiiiior than iindor tlio ol«l Kvstcni. wliili' tlicir dipiirtmc from Montrcjil and the Wt'stcrn ciiics of tiio Dominion is delayed fully twelvt; hours. It is intended to extend the wharf fiiither out into the \u\y, to facilitate the hmdiiii;- ol' the mails, and also to suj)ply ji^reater faeilities f<»r the carryini; on of tlu' local shijjping- tra(U'. A biiUK Ji of the Intercolonial runs down to the wharf, so that no time is lost in despatch- ing tlie mails aftt'r the arrival of the steamer in the bay. The Montreal Telegraph Company liave completed arrangements Ity which telei^rams can he put on hoard the outiioiui^and incoming- steamers when l)assinj^ Ilimonski, Baniahy Island, three and a half miles in length, and very narrow, is opposite the town. It is comparatively low, and partly wooded. A touch- ing story is recorded in connection with this i)lace. Nearly a centnry ago, Toussaint Cartier, a French nobleman, like many before and since his time, fell in love with a handsome and accomplished young lady of humble origin. His friends being opposed to their marriage, he formed a resolution to leave France for ever in comi)any with the girl who had unconsciously ol)tained the mastery over his youtliful heart. A ship Avas chartered, and a start made under happy circum- stances and with cheering prospects. The New World was fixed upon as their future home. All went well until the Gulf of St. Lawrence was reached. There, in I i IlIVlKllK-nr-LOUP TO STB. FLAVIE. 25 front of the town of Uimoiiski, the sliip wiik Ix-calincd, and as the stork of provisions iit tin; disposal of tho youthful adventurers liud l»y this time lieeomo nearly oxhausted, Cartier volunteered to land and procure a fresh supply. While on his way hack, a fierce storm arose ; his frail craft was driven upje( ted to the heart- rending atcony of seeing his ship dashinir heavily upon the cruel ntcks concealed hy the angry ocean on the north side of the Island. The crew launched a boat, and with the gallantry and womanly tenderness whioh are such j)leasing features in the character of the French mce, placed their fair companion on hoard, but the boat could not live in the surging billows which rose mountain high in the (^ulf ; she was swamped before slie had scarcely hft the side of tlit! vessel, and l)oor Cartier, nearly distraeted,was a helpless spectator of the dreadful catastrophe which deprived him of the woman for whom he had so manfully sacrificed friends and fortune. Dejected in spirit and broken hearted, Cartier rianaiued upon the Island and interred her body —perfect in its loveliness, though in the eold grasp of death — which was washed ashore shortly after the accident; at tlic same time he took a solemn vow never to leave the Island from which he witn<;ssed the dire calamity that i)rematurely blasted all his earthly prospects. He is said to havi' lived there for fifty years in the strictest seclusion. The Seignior granted him -- h ■ P iJ i n \ im immnmittl/^ak 26 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEKCCLOMAL RAILV/AV. a small plot of land, on Avliicli he erected a hut. One day no .smoke Avas si-en to rise iVom his uncom- fortable retreat, and the people livinj>- in the' neigh- bourhood, suspecting that he was unwell, went over to the hut, where tliey found poor Cartier dead, and his faithful dog lying beside him, atfection- ately licking his face. The body was brought to the village and buried in the Rimouski churchyard. Ga- mache, the notorious pirate of the St. Lawrence, was born at llimouski. His luad-quarters after he com- men( ed his work of merciless plunder, were at Anti- costi, but he often visited his native town, and some of the oldest inliabitants of tlie place have a perfect recollection of him. A short drive to the 1)ack of Rimouski brings the traveller to Mount St, Camilk', the highest range be- tween Riviere-du-Loup and the mouth of the St, Law- rence, and the first land sighted by vessels coming up the Gulf. From the summit, to reach which will ne- cessitatis considerable climbing, a charming view of the surrounding country is obtained. Behind this mountain immense herds of cariboo congregfite during the winter, and large numbers of persons visit the locality during that period. Ste. Luc(! is the next village of importance on the road. It is ten miles from Rimouski and two miles from the station. The population is only about 400. In front of the village there is a pretty bay, the beach wam^^m^mmmmm mm RIVIERE-DU-LOUP TO STE. FLAViK. 21 ii of which is sandy and very suitable for bathing*. There is a handsome Roman Catliolic cliiireh in the place, also a flour mill. Eight and a half miles further on is Ste. Flavie, a small but thriving village, with i\ population of about Too. It contains a Roman Catholic cliurch, a hotel, a telegraph office and several stores, and is the ter- minus of the Metapedia (military) road, which is always kept in good order. Before the completion c»f the Intercolonial, stage-coaches were run between Ste. Flavie and Cross Point, on the Restigouche River. In bringing this chapter to a close, it is proper to state hat the tract of country extending between Rivicre-du-Loup and Ste. Flavie, although thickly set- tled and well cultivated, is not likely for many years to yield any considerable revenue to the Railroad. The soil cannot be called very fertile, and in only a few of the villages along the route do the inhabitants have any surplus cereal productions to dispose of. A large quantity of lumber is cut along the banks of the prin- cipal streams intersecting the district, but the bulk, ill fact all of it, is now forwarded from the seaports by ocean craft to the foreign markets, and it is not at all likely that those engaged in the trade, even witii the facilities now offered them, will be inclined to seek a market nearer home for their productions. The quantity intended for Halifax and other points in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and also for the United 28 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. States, liitlieito sent l>y sailing vessels, will doubt- less now be forwarded by the Railway, Init this forms a very insignifieant portion of the amount of lumber exported. There are several interesting points on the route, sueh as Riviere-du-Loup, Cacouna, Bic and Ri- mouski, which are surrounded by bold and romantic scenery, and in the neighborliood of which there is some splendid fishing and shooting, which will attract large numbers of tourists and health -^seekers, and this will yield a considerable revenue. The construction of the road through this section has been comparatively easy, except in the neighborhood of the nortliern term- inus, Trois Pistoles and Bic, where deep cuttings through solid rock were necessitated. t CHAPTER III. From Ste. Flavie to Metapedia. Possibly some travell(!rs will experience a feeling of disappointment after having traversed the country ex- tending from Ku'iere-du-Loup to Ste. Flavie. They may not consider its scenery so romantic and pictur- esque as they were induced to believe by people who had travelled through it . It must be admittrd that the district along the Gulf is the most uninteresting on the whole route, being, except at one or two jioints, destitute of tliose bold and striking features which are necessary for the formation of an attractive landscape. To the ardent student of naturejiowever, it possessi-san attractiveness which is not diminished by tlie mon- otonous sameness which, upon the whole, characterizes it. The River St. Lawrence continually in vitw to the north, with lofty mountains rising behind it, whose tops are almost invariably at early morn enshrouded in a veil of vapory clouds ; the high table land extend- ing southwards, broken hwe and tliere by deep ravines ; the corn fields, waving in the gentle breeze ; the huge boulders of rock, which tower above the Railway carriages in the neighborhood of Bic ; the falls and cataracts of Riviere-tlu-Loup, are all full of inter- i yTTBTimTfaifKs 30 GUIDE ROOK TO THE INTEUCOLONIAL RAILWAY. est, and will not fail to b • apprcciatod by tourists visiting- tlio localit^^ There arc grander scenes yet to bo visited, licnvever, scenes wliose pietures([iu'n 'ss, awful loneliness, and prim.'val wilduess, will excite feelings of unbounded admiration, and th(! recollections of which can _never 1):; eJt'acfd from the ni:'nior3'\ The country for s VMal miles bt'low St". Flavie ])r<3S 'iits an unint 'restingappearance. Along the track, stii|)s of land are here and there cleared and under cultivation, but l).;yond these, on l)oth sides as far as tlie eye can see, the hills and plains are thickly wooded. Grand Metis Bridge is the next point of interest reached. .It crosses the river of tliat name, which takes its rise in the north-west angle of the County of Bonavviitnre, and running north discharges into an ex- pansive estuary called Anse-aux-Snelles. The bridge is a ViU-y line substantially built structure of iron, four hundred and thirty feet long, supi)orted by three piers and two abutments. About a mile and-a-half below the bridge is Grand Metis Fall, to which a 'carriage road runs from the village. For some distance above it the river runs through a comparatively level tract of wood-land, expanding Jis it approaches the cascade, then contracting near the brink of the ledge, over which the waters leap seventy-five feet in an unbroken slieet into the chasm below, forming a seething pool, at the I > 1—1 C 1111 lllllll''] llllill illillliiilliilllliiii i base of wjiicli the silvery spray rises to a great lieig'lit. As we 2:as5e down into the elizzy clptlis of tliis grand cataract, when " White with fnani, the whnio ii!)\>s Hooins tortureil, and with htjadiiuiy' vont Dashes i)'t;r the rDoks worn luul rout With Uealoniii.L;- noise, and Hi^htuing leap Headloiiy: with unresisted sweep The waters seek the oeeaii wide," we cannot help being impressed with a feeling of awe. TJie peculiar structure of the rocky banks, the music of the waters, the r((|uisite intermingling of light and shade, the distant prospect of forest and mountain, enchain the att ntiou of the spectator, and as the shades of evening fall and the great luminary of the day sinks in the western lu>ri/on, tinting the mountain tops with a golden hue, imparting to the landscape a romantic grandeur, creating feelings of wonder and admiration at the sublime creations of the Great Ai'ch- itect of the universe, one reluctantly turns away from the contemplation of the scene and directs his foot- steps towards the village there to ponder over the glorious views of nature, adorned in her most fantastic garb, which he was privileged to behold during the day. No less eni'hanting is the scenery along the route of the Petit Metis, which rises in the rear of the Seigniory of the same name,*and falls into a small bay known as the Petit Metis Harbour. A cascade on . B zrt D sasx 34 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. thiK stream is ^vortlij' of special att( ntion on account of its striking ai)pearan('e and romantic wildncss. The river, after inissing through a district where its channel is in many phices concealed from view by the foiest of tamarac, spruce and cedar which mantles both its banks, stretching far away beyond them, comes to a narrow gorge overhung by lofty trees, and j)lungcs over a small ]»recipice into the circular pool below. The face of the cascade presents a most fascin- ating a[)j)farance, being covered with tall trees and thick lirush wood, in the midst of which the beautiful white foam of the falling wateis, reflecting variegated lines in the dazzling snn, is seen in all its loveliness and ex(iuisuo grandeur. Both the Grand and Petit Metis arc splendid salmon streams, and in the woodland along their banks, in fact throughout the whole neigh- borhood, partridge, snipe, &c., aliound. On the Grand Metis a large saw mill has been con- structed at a cost of ^25,000. For a considerable distance to the east of the bridge the country is pretty well cleared on both sides of the track, and the farm- ers' cottages scattered here and there, present a neat and comfortable ajjpearance. In this s(>ction the road was very difficnlt to construct, and in several places the rails are laid upon embankments full}^ fourteen feet high. At Little Metis a very good hotel has been built, to accommodate about 200 guests. St. Octave, nine miles from Ste. Flavie, is the next ^ T 8TK. PLAVIE TO METAPEDIA. 35 village on the Intercolonial, and the station for both Grand and Little Metis. This place was originally settled by a small colony of Scotch Presbyterians, but i\w present population are now mostly French- Canadians, and are employed during the summer in agricultural jiursuits and in the winter in lumbrring. The villagt! contains several stores and a tel(gra])h office. In the winter the fall of snow in this district is very heavy, and to prevent the blocking up of the road, the cuttings and most exposed points have been covered, some of the sheds being nearly 1,500 feet long. As the train moves eastwards the traveller obtains a delightful view of the country. The 8t. Lawrence is in sight on the left, winding its way slowly toAvards the ocean ; between it and the track neat cottages nestle romantically among the trees, wiiile the country in the distance is intersected and crossed by a constant succession of ridges, rising to a consider- able height between the different small tributaries of the Metis and Tartigou Eivers. About two miles from St. Octave there is an immense cutting through solid slate rock. This cutting is shedded. At this point the spray from the Metis Falls, t^s it curls heaven- wards, is seen from the carriage windows, while th ^ fall itself is concealed by the surrounding w(»ods. For a few miles eastwards the road jmsses through a rocky district, where very great difficulty was exi»erienced in procuring grading material, and then runs round the \ m miMr t f 3G (JL'IDE HOOK TO THE INTKRCOLONIAL KAILWAY. liiow of an elevated plateau called the " sumiiiit." At every point of view in this neifjchhorhood the land- scai)e is jjai'ticularly pictiires(pie andl)f'aiitiful, and the traveller commences to feel that the splendor and the variety of the scenery which oi)ens up before him will more than couuterhalance whatever inconveniences he may have been subjected to in penetratin.u' into this region of solitude. The line toTarti!40U,a small and unimportant village, runs for the most i)art through dec^p cuttings cut in solid rock, and when the travellers' view is not in- terrupted by rocks, as lu; looks through liis carriage window, he sees evidences of the devastating work of the fiery element. The magnificent forest which form- erly clothed the hills whicli come within the range of his observation has been for the most part destroyed, whetlu'r accidentally or otherwise it is impossible to state, although the most probable theory is that the con- tlngration which swept with such fury and destructive results through the district,originatedfrom the remains of Indian camp fires. After leaving Tarfgou we travel along the bank of a snuiU river of the sann- name, which abounds with excellent trout, ranging in weight all the way from a (juarter of a pound to six pounds, A few miles l)elow the settlenuuit the river is diverted from its natural bed, and passes through a tunnel forty- five feet long, constructed in the embankment on Avhich the track is laid, A few miles beyond this place we ? V r 4* 8TE. FLAVIK TO MKTAI'KDIA. 37 puss two sinall lakos; the larf^cr of thciii is nniiu'' of the reserves on the esUitos of the Knuiisli iioi)ilit\': whilst the salmon and troiit tishin^' in every stream and lake throughout the district is une(|ualle(l. Tt is (juite common for an angler to land as many as forty salmon in a day ; and it must he rememhered that here they run as wild as in any river or lake in Great Britain, and their cap- ture is atti'iided hy eiiual excitement and sport as 'in the celehrated streams and lakes of Harris in the Western Hebrides, which that enthusiastic sportiv(! l)arson "Sixty-one" — has pictured so grai)hically in his '■ Twenty Years Keniiniscences in the Lewis." We iiave no doubt hut that as the travel on the Interco- lonial llailway increases, and as the beauty andfittrac- tions of the Metapedia region become better known, an liotel will be erected in the vicinity of this lake for the aecommodation of sportsmen: In Grieat Britain thousands of pounds are paid annually for afewweeks sport, but it is only in comparatively few places that I) ? «p ?■ ^ uiiy tain('«l. For dtcr stalking-, tlic soulliciii part of Lewis jiiid Xortluin HarriK arc tlio l)t!st tifhls in the whole of Great Britain, Itutintlie district of wliieh wv are now speaking, better sport and greater enjoyment can be obtained than even in these parts of Noithcnn I'.ritain. Moose and eaiiboo roam abont in hufic nnnd»ers in the nionntains and valleys, and oeeasionally abear ean bi' shot ; in the forests part- rid.1,0', siiiix' and plover are plentiful; while in the rivers and lakes salmon, trout, gaspereaux, bass, &e., &e., abound. Von have little or nothin^^ to pay for your sportinjj: privilenis. And wiiat privileges they are, too? A territ* . v hundreds of miles in area. Ht your dis[)0Siil, tl lough which you may roam unrestrained, with the certainly of every day enjoying as much shooting and lishing as you de- sire. J II nearly every stream throughout tlie coun- try either salmon or trout can be obtained, and in those in which these noble specinuins of the piscatorial species are not to be niet with — and they are fiiw and far })etween — bass, gaspereaux, &c., &e., arc i)lentiful. Tlicre are two small settlements near the southern end of the lake— Cedar Hall and Amqui. They have no hotel accommodation yet, so tliat the traveller who makes up his mind to linger in the locality for a t\w days must either " put U)) " with one of the farmers ov come sujtplied with the necessary material for "camping out." TIjc Mctupediii, or " Musical rdvciy' as the Indians call it, takes its rise in the lake of the same name, wliieli we liave jnst passed, and flows, with many twists and wJndin,i:;s, in a direction from north-west to south- oust and discharges into the River llestigonehe, about sixteen juileswest of the port of Cami)l)ellton, In its conrs(! it leeeives tlie waters of several large streams witJi uiipronounceahle names, the; principal of which aie tlie Piscamineau, the Assemetcinaghan, the Causaps- cal, and the Humguin. The River is in many places divei siflcd Avith numerous islands : sometimes its waters are coiitiai. tetl between stupendous mountains, and at other times expanded to a great extent in a l)eaTitiful 0])eij country. It \< as tine a river as any angler could wish to c;ist a line in. No matter from wliat point of the e.om]);i^s tlic wind blows, or whether there is any ■wind at all, salmon can be (aught in it ; they Avill rise to almost anything — even to a i)iect' of red flannel rouglily fixed upon a hodk. AVitli this gear attached to a loni^ i)ol(^ cut from the neighboring forest.it is quite a common thing for the farmeis avIio live on itslianks to land a dozen magniflcent salmon in an evening, SOUK! weighing as much as thirty poimds. No river in En K (-3 CI > > K 42 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEIJCDLONIAL RAILWAY. Mt'tapvdia Valley. Avithout doubt the wildost and most roinantic scene in Canada, When brought into com- liarisun with this the world-renowned mountain scenery of the North of Scotland, especially that along the new branch of the Higlilaiul ItaihNay extending from Dingwall to Stronie Ferry, ])a,les its lustre and sinks into iusignilicance. Kich in savage grandeur, the high ami rugged clitfs seem to frown in gloomy indignation at the travel h'rs. who in ])ursuit of jdeasure disturl) its solitude, and at some points they a{>pear as if at any nxoment they would fall and overwhelm the stream which tloA\s down so c(»lil, (U'c]) and motionless lielow. 'J'his valley should be seen, if it were (»nly to know what dreadful as})ects Nature lan assume in her wild Woods. On the I'ough brows and rugged sides of one of the mountain ranges which enclose the valley, lir, cedar, pojdar, si>ruc(.', tamarac. birch, ash and pine flour- ish in wild luxuriance ; while the other side presents a weird aspect, the trees being for the most i)art lifeless and verdureK'ss, the district having at some period or other been visited by a destructive lire. The valley extends seventy miles to the point where the Meiapedia lliver joins the llestigouche. It is bounded by mountain ranges rising to a height of 1,000 feet, at some i)laccs l)roken by dee}) ravines and narrow gorges, through A\hich several snuill streams pour their ■waters into the main river below. The trains run through this picturesque scenery during the daytime. > H H I— H !> " 44 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. There are three stations in the Valley, Causapseal, Assametqunghan and Millstream, all small settle- ments, surrounded, however, by wild and rug- ged seenery. Assametquaghan, particularly, is a most fascinating spot, situated on a small plain, en- closed on every side hy lofty mountains, "with the river flowing past in front. At Ilellsgate, near the end of the Valley, is a charm- ing piece of scenery. The river, after passing over a scries of houlders, expands into an <'xt( nsive and beau- tiful basin, and again contracts and flows gently on between a succession of high preci])ices. At this place some years ago a ])ronnnent ofticial connected Avitli the Intercolonial had his canoe capsized in the iai)ids, and the occupants were thrown into the wattr, but they Avcre gallantly rescued by one of the men employed on the read. A fcAv miles further down, the river assumes a very ])ictures(iue aspect, and nothing can be more charming than a ramble along its banks, especially at sunset, when the surrounding mountainsare riehly tinted with emerald and gold hues. The Suspension Bridge, which will be noticed in an illustration on another page, was, prior to the construc- tion of the Intercolonial Eailwav, the onlv means of ••7 • crossing the river, except in canoes. At certain seasons of the year it is impossible, on account of the rapidity of the current, to cross in boats. As the* hills on both ^ t ft r 46 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. , I sides of the M<'tapt'dia Valley are high and steep, and come down on the one side or the other prettj' close to the river's bank, it has l)een found necessary in the construction of the road, in order to avoid curves of very small radius, to chanj^e from one side to the other. The rock throughout is hard and generally of a slaty character. The construc- tion of the road has, consequently, been very expensive. Opposite Causapscal, at the confluence vi theriver of that name with the Metapedia. there is a very fine iron bridge, supported by three piers and two aluitments, built of limestone, obtained from a quarry in the yicinity. The superstructure is after the English lattice girded pattern, built by the Fairbairn Engi- neering Ccmipany of Manchester, England. Travel- ling eastAvards, we cross the river again at Pleasant Beech over a similar bridge, only one span shorter. The next structure of importance that we come to is the Millstream bridge, four spans of one hundred feet each. It is nineteen miles from the previous bridge. Here the river is crossed at a point where the current is very rapid, and great difficulty was experienced in laj''- ingtho foundation. The superstructure is the same as that of the other bridges. After emerging from the valley the road runs over a more open, but very rugged country, to Metapedia, on the boundary between Quebec and New Brunswick. ■'[ CilAPTEE IV. M B T A P E D I A TO M \ C T N . Metapcdia, the most easterly village, or rather sottlenient, in tlio Province of Quebec, is delightfully situated on a fertile plain at the ct.nfluence of the Metapedia and rvestigouche. It is hardly possible to . conceive of a more charming scene than that which bursts upon the view of the traveller as he emerges from the wild valley beyond and approaches the bound- ary line. The magnificent river in front, winding modestly a silent coui-se ; the rugged hills around clad with a green robe of forest from summit to base ] the fruitful vales; the deep ravines and the narrow gorges, constitute a landscape of perfect loveliness and dazzling splendour. ''Whether dressed or nude, wild '' without art, or artfully subdued, Nature in every form " inspires delight," and no man having a spark of the sublime Avithin his bosom can help being impressed with the picturesqueness and the exquisite beauty of the prospect before him. The scenery of the Hud=!on in the United States, or the Rhine in Germany, cannot surpass, if it equals, that along the rivers which intersect this part of the country. At this point good salmon fishing may be had by I i 48 GUIDE HOOK TO THE INTEIiCOLONIAI, UAII.WAY. l)ayiiii^ Si |>i"r day i'nv tlu; privilf.i^e. Tlicrr arc scveval g()<> its extreme source near Lake Ttmiscoii- ala, the distance is 2no miles, and the main river with its trihutaries drains an area of al>out r),000 square miles of very fertile and Avell timhered country. Its live leading hranches vary from fifty to scAcnty miles in length, and are known hy the novel names of IMeta- l)edia or Musical Itiver, Upsalguiteh or ])lanket River, Wetomkegewick or Large River, Mistouche or Little River, and Waagan or Knife River. Its entrance to the Bale des Clialeurs is three miles wide, and nine .L o K c« 50 OUIDE BOOK TO THK INTERCOLONIAL HAILWAY. ftitlioins (It't'j). TIr' sceiu'i'y along its course is every- where both ji,ian(l and beautiful, especially in that l)ortion where it forces its way through the mountain lands which give birth to tlu; groat streams of N(!W Brunswick and those of the Tnited Stati's enii>tying into the Athmtic. Here th(! eagle unmolested builds its nest upon high cliffs : the bear and wildcat secrete themselves in caves and rocky fissures ; th(^ moose and cariboo browse uj)Oii their favorite food ; and the salmon, fearless and fr"c, retlect the sunshine in the deepest and darkest pools. The Restigouche is famous, the world over, for its fisheries ; it may truly be called the Eldorado of the angler. A Jou)ney up the River is slow, owing" to the very strong current which passes down its bed, but if the voyage up is tedious, the speed with which you return down will more than compen- sate for this drawback. It generally takes three days to reach tlu; mouth of the (Juatawamk(;dgwick, a dis- tance of eighty miles, whereas one will suffice to accomplish the same distance returning. No one who visits the locality should fail to make the trip up the R"stigouche. The wild grandeur of its scenery is beyond description. At many of the windings a general panoramic view is produced, impressing one with the idea of some mighty amphitheatre situated in the midst of Nature's wilds, which completely dazzles the eye with delight, and for the moment almost overcomes the mind with awe. As you stand * ♦ i -XI -3 52 aUlDE nOOK TO THE INTKRCOLO.VrAL RAILWAY. on a inoniitiiiii top, ImiKlrcdH (if milt« fioiii Iminaii habitation, jind look into tiu- eternity of space beneath and around vou, a sense of extreme isohition and sol- itude ( leeps upon you, and you t'onii)reliend then the true nieaninj; of the sinipk' Anf;lo-Saxon word " ah)ne/' and your thouglitsiye uneonseiously directed from the contemplation of Nature, decked in her wildest garb to the contemplation of Nature's (iod. " If thiiii wimld'Ht read ;i lew.son tlmt will kuu)* Tliy lieiirt from fiiiiiliii;4 and tli.v nouI from sloop. Go tlif woods and hills." A sliort distance below the point where tlu^ Metap<'dia joins the Restigouche, tlie river is crossed by a magni- ficent iron bridge, five spans of 204 fuet each, its t(;tal length between abutuK-nts, being 1,050 feet. The iron work is from the establishment of the Phwnixvilhj Bridge Company, Pennsylvania. Each span weighs 100 tons. The piers — four in number — and tlie abut- ments arc built of granite, and if outward appearance can be taken as a criterion, they are of the most sub- stantial character and highly creditable to the con- tractors. At the point where the bridge is constructed the current is very strong and rapid, and considerable difficulty was experienced in laying the foundation for the superstructure. After crossing this bridge we enter New Brunswick territory. The scenery on the border is not so much k mmn 54 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL HAILWAY. •'" I 1^ v. of the awe-innpiring Alpine character as that in the Metapodia Valley. ' It is a delicious admixture of hill and dale, forest and stream, with here and there a pre- cipice, and in the distance cloud-capped mountaiiifc giving variety to the picture. The railroad from the Restigouche Bricige to Campbellton runs at the foot of a range of hills which slope down to the bank of the river. Veiy romantic indeed is the scenery on every hand throughout tins section of the country. The hills, sloping gradually down to the water's edge in some places, or rising abruptly to an elevation of hundreds of feet in others, covered with every variety of tree indi- genous to these latitudes, with the river in the valley below dotted with small islands, flowing calmly to its ocean home, form a picture, the recollection of which can never be effaced from the memory of the spectator . A. short distance to the east of the bridge is a tunnel through Morrisey Rock, which projects from the mount- ain's side to the bank of the river. It is three hundred feet long, and is, we believe, the only tunnel through rock in the country. The intention, originally, was to remove the rock altogether, but the work was found to be so enormously heavy and expensive that the idea was abandoned . Travelling eastwards, the first town reached is Campbellton, situated on the Restigouche, sixteen miles from its mouth. Some years ago large quantities of lumber were shipped from tliis Port, but recently the -1" MKTAl'EDIA TO MONO TON. 55 bulk of tlie ship])ing lousiness has bct'ii transferred t<.) Dallionsie, furtlier down tlie river, and comparatively few ocean vessels come up to Caniphellton now. The town has, within the past few years, made rapid strides of proj^ress.. The C(mipletion of the Intercolonial lias given an impetus to building' operations, and trade generally has been stimulat(t'd l>y the increased trans- portation facilities provided for thi- inhahitants. The population is about 700, the majority of whom are either of Scotch, English or Irish descent. TIum'c arc several hotels in the town, the princii)al being " Jardin's,'' about half a mile from the station, on the main street. Its trade in luml)er is very considerable, and also in iish, particularly salmon, which is sliip[)cd chietiy to the Boston and New York markets fresh. The scenery around tin- town is bold, grand and striking. Immediately in rciir of it a pyrami(l-sha])ed mountain rises to a height of 1,0U0 feet. From its summit a charming view of the surrounding country is (»btained. On the oj)posite side of the river a narrow tiact of level and very fertile land extends ah)ng its bank. and» a number of small settlements may be seen here and there. In every direction the iishing is all that the most enthusiastic angler could possibly desire. This is also one of the prini-ipal stations on the railway, having extensive buildings for the housing and repair of engines, cars, &c. There is a large and commodious refreshment room mm iiii at Campbellton, where excellent meals are served. The refreshment rooms at Trois Pistoles, Campbell- town, Moncton, and Truro, are beyond doubt the best upon any railway on the continent. Nine miles beyond Campbellton is Dalhousie Station. The scenery between these points is charm infj^. Dalhousie is about six miles from the depot, at the entrance of the Eestigouclie into the Baie-des-Cbaleurs, In front of the town is a well sheltered crescent-shaped cove with good anchorage ground for ships, in nine fathoms of water. Fine wharves and excellent timber coves have been constructed here, affording every con- venience for loading the largest ships. The trade of the town is similar to that of all the other towns along the north shore — the manufacturer and shipping of lumber, and the ship])ing of fish and lobsters, pre- served and fresh. Tlie riestigouche and its branches drain at least 5,000 square miles of fertile country, abounding in timber and otlier valuable resources, nearly the whole of which finds its way to the sea by the port of Dalhousie. Its population is about 1,000, « mostly of Scotch and English descent, and retaining all the noble traits of character peculiar to the races from which they sprang. A few days residence here could be passed most enjoyably. The scenery is every- where grand and picturesque ; the rivers and lakes are full of salmon, and trout "rise" to almost anything. There are several well-kept hotels in the town, and a II II number of very handsome churches. The great dis- tance of the railway depot from the town causes con- siderable inconvenience, but, owing to the formidable engineering difficulties which had to be contended witli, a nearer approach could not be made. It is fifty- two miles from Bathurst, ninety-seven from Chatham, one hundred and eighty from Shediac, two hundred and three from Fredericton, and two hundred and eighty-four from St. John. Between Dalhousit; rnd Bathurst the road runs along the Bai(^-des-Chaleurs, passing through a beautiful and well-cultivated farming country, crossing many lovely streams and aft'ording frequent glimpses of the Bay. The scenery is everywhere most ])ictures(|U(', and nothing can be more charming than a journey through the district during the summer or Ml months. The settlements on the route are Charlo, New Mills, Jacquet River, Belledune and Petite Roche. The people of these settlements are generally in good circum- stances ; they have as much land as they want, the soil is very fertile, and excellent crops of wheat, oats, corn, &c., ar(( raised, Avhile the hslieries are a never failing source of wealth. All along the Baie-des-Cha- leurs and near the moutlis of the great rivers which flow into it, there are large stations at which tlie tish is landed and cured. At most of them there are huge refrigerators in which the salmon is sometimes kept for a long time in a fresh condition, pending a favoiublc turn in the market. The ti.sh-ciiring business is very prolitahk', and some of the persons engaged in it make immense fortunes. They buy up the salmon from the fishermen generally at about 7c. per pound, more or less, according to the catch, and forward large quantities to the Boston, New York and other American markets, where they get 40c. per pound for it, and some seasons more. A consider- able quantity is also sent to Quebec, Montreal and other Canadian eities since the comiiletion of the Inter- colonial. The trade in dry cod and herrings is carried on also on a very extensive scale. The fish is caught in the baj', which is visited at certain i)eriods of the year by immense shoals of them, in the Gulf and on the coast of Labrador. The fishcrnun are a brave and hardy race, and many are the dangers to which they are exi>osed in the pursuit of their avocation, and the oc- casions on which their powers of endurance are tested. St>metimes caught in storms, their boats are dashed against the treacherous r(K'ks which exist in the Gulf, and if the occupants escape from a watery grave, they are often foreed to live on a desert island for months, far away from human lu itation. Icebergs, the dread of every mariner who navigates these lati- tudes, often also crush the frail crafi which may chance to come within their reach, and these bold and ad- venturous toilers of the deep are helplessly left to ])erish in the Atlantic. f k Jacquet and Belleduno rivers, about lialf way bc- twueii Dalhousic and Batluirst, arc spKndid salmon and trout streams. Tlie former is fifty miles long, and runs through a district rich in all kinds of lumber, and renowned for the romantic grandeur of its scenery^ There is a very good harbour at its mouth. At its head is Antiguri Lake, a beautiful sheet of water where some excellent trout fishing can be had, the fish ranging in weight from a quarter to five i)ounds. After traversing fifty-four miles of country rich in natural beauty and possessing numerous attraction)-; for the admirers of picturesque scenery, and the lovers of the " Angling art,'" we reacli Bathurst, the capital of the County of Gloucester. It is beautifully situated upon two points of land connected by a bridge at the mouth of the Nepissifjuit lliver, and commands a picturesque view ol Bathurst Bay and its islands. The Bay is three and-a-half miles long and two miles wide, and by nature has been sheltered from every wind. Along its undulating shores are scattered here and there pretty cottages and farms. Tlie population of Bathurst has increased very considerably within the past few years, and is now estimated at 1,000. The people are thrifty, industrious and cnterprizing, evi- dences of which are visible on every side. Immense quantities of salmon are shipped every season to the United States, and quite an extensive trade in lumber is also carried on. Four rivers enter Bathurst harbor. 'IS ♦ f the prirni])al being the NepisKJquit, which rises near the head waters of the Tobiqne, and is fnlly 100 miles long. It runs witli great ra])idity, and is ecdehrated for its line laige salmon. Ai)art from the gh)om and grandeur of tlie monntain scenery, at its source and along its many lovely tributaries, it can boast of falls and rajiids uhieli are extremely interesting. From these ra])ids it (Icrives its name, Avhich means tlu' '• Foamy River.'" No visitor to Bathurst, -whetber in search of the grand and beautiful in nature^ or in pursuit of that excitement and sport attendant n])on angling, should fail to make tbc ascent <»f tlie Nepissicpiit. There is a good carriage road along the course of the river from the town. A three miles drive l)rings ns to the first pool on tlie river, at " Rough Waters." Here splen- did fishing can be had. The fishery overseer charges $1.00 per day for the privilege of fishing at this ])Ool. At Papineau Falls, a few miles further up, and also at Giddle Landing and at Chain of Rocks yon can catch as many salmon as you wish. The scenery at the Falls is snperb. The rocky bed of the river, the fall of thirty feet, the steep precipices rising to a height of over a hundred feet, and the gloomy pits at tbeir base, make a picture w^ell worth seeing. But we must ascend still higher up to obtain a view of the wildest and most magnificent scene on the river — we mean Grand Frt'ls, which are twenty miles from Bathurst — and which, it would seem, nature deemed so beautiful ? METAI'EDIA TO MONCTON. 61 that she encased them in flint and granite. For miles above and behjw the cataract, the river is very much contracted, the banks rocky and i)erpendicuhir, and the water comes tumbling' down over four rugged preci- pices into deep dark pools, whose over-hanging sides, reeking with spray and adorned with foliage, seem as if about to totter over upon the spectator. For about a mile below there are a number of [)ools and rapids, wliose fascinating features are greatly enhanced by the blending together at some places of the black waters and the white foam. The Grand J'alls are 140 feet high, and form an effectual barrier to tlu; fartlier progress of the salmon, large numbers of which con- gregate in the basin below. At Bathurst tlie river is crossed by a large iron bridge of six spans, 100 feet each, supported l)y five piers and two abutments of granite. The iron work is of English manufacture, and presents an exceedingly handsome and substantial appearance. While at Bathurst, the Tete-i\-Gauche River should be visited. It is twenty-five miles long, winding in its course, and runs over a rocky bottom. It has several picturesque rapids, and the scenery along its course is exceedingly tine. First rate trout and salmon fishing can be had on it. The curious plant known as Myra Cerifera^ which yields a whitish wax, out of which the Acadians make candles, is to be found in abundance along its banks. , '4 From BathiirHt to Mirainichi, forty-four miles, tlio country is undulating, tlio vcg^'tation rich anil varied, and the scenery very attractive. The settlements in tiic district are Red Pine, Bartiboque and Beaver Brook, Newcastle, our next stoi»ping plaee, is pleasanth'' situated on the slope of a hill, on the left hank of the Miramichi, about thirty miles abovi^ its mouth, and is the capital of the County of North uml)erland. It is quite an old town, having been founded by the original French setth'rs in the Province. In the year 1825 one of the most remarkable conflagrations of the pre- sent centurv occured, which resulted in the loss of many valuable lives and the destruction of an immense amount of property. The summer had been unusually hot and dry, and extensive fires had raged in different parts of ihc country. In the northern portion of New Brunswick particularly, scarcely any rain had fallen during the season, and the heat from the first to the fifth of October was extraordinary — 86" in the shade and 12G<^ in the sun. The fires, which had been creeping through the forest, approached some settlements, enveloping them in smoke, and causing the heat to become almost unbear- able. On the seventh of October, the fire reach New- castle, spread with lightning rapidity, and in a few hours the town wa.s a smoking ruin, with scarcely a house stimding, and not one uninjured. Many were in i ♦ i bod wlun they liujird thu alannjinuny wtie first startled by the flames, or were snl'focatcd in their sleei), jcaviiif^ no vesti.u^:' but eliarrrd bones; otliers leajx^d from roofs or windows, and nislicd into tht^ forest, not knowin.i,^ Avhither tiny went'. In tin- river, numbers who had attempted to escape in l>oats and on planks, were drowned. Whih; the fire was ratlin,!;', a hurricane arose, aufl so fearfully fierce was it, that the burning trees wvax; torn from their roots and wiiirled aloft ; the ships in the river and channel were driven about like chaff and dashed against the rocks. So hot did the water become that it is said large numbersof salmon and other fish leaped on shore, and wer(! afterwards found dead in heaps along tlie banks of the vivcr. In an his- torical sketch of Acadia by Mr, John K. Hamilton, there is embodicui the following gra[)hic deserii)tion of this most stupendous confiagration : •' A roar as of thunder came from the forest, and a column of smoke shot up, followed by blaze on blaze, and then a burst of fire like the eruption I fa volcano. The flames fell in a shower, which the gale blew wide, hurling them almost like darts, and liere they might be seen on the tops of treses, there glaring in the branches, there run- ning up or down tin; banks, or from base find summit at once. The smoke Itlew back on the unkindled woods, making them darker than before, blacker than the blackest night, and the fire raged in the middle, imaging the mouth of hell. lilazcs gleamed at the 04 OUIDE HOOK TO THE INTEKCOLONIAL RAILWAY. yicU'S, lu'liiiul, in tliL' dcptlis of the wooiIh, on the river's brink; trees of centiU'ieH' growth lit up in the midst of the darlvness ; lu(! rained down from above, soared np from below, Hi)read »froni the centre, closed in from the distance ; it burst in a hundred erup- tions, mounting, declining and mounting again, throwing uj) sparks, falling in showers or sheets, or glaring in mid-air ; the river was crimson Avith the reflection ; the clouds took the form of flames ; the very heavens seeniid on fire. The gale burst into a hurricane, tore through the town, wrenched trees up by their roots, and carried strong men off their feet. Horses broke from the fields and galloped about in troops, snorting and neighing, their eyes starting from their heads and their manes on end, while the wind swelled the clatter of their hoofs to the rush of hosts. All this occured almost instantaneously and inspired the people with an impression akin to the spectacle — that it was the day of judgUK^nt. They threw them- selves upon their faces in the streets to shut out the scene, seeming to make the appeal to the mountains and hills to fall upon them, and it did seem a burning world with the fire raging like a sea, in moimtainous waves, the sky glowing like a furnace, the hurricane breaking in peals and crashes, and the scorched air flapping as with a million of wings." Nearly three hundred persons perished either by fire or drowning ; five hundred and ninety-five buildings tlifn,'. AhiioHtcvt'iy IkmIv in tho town and vicinity is ill sunn- way intcrcstt'd in th;: lur^c tli'ct <»l' iin i- clianl sliippiiii,' wliich huiis tr<»ni tlu' port, 'riicic arc fourteen Hteiiin saw iiiilis ((n the river, nine water saw mills, eij^lit lyrist mills, and three eardinu' niills. In the vicinity, and within easy access, there ar(; some splendid freestone anil t^ranite (piariies, hut e(»m- paratively few of the residences ar<' hiiilt of these mateiials, the nu'st of them lieiiif; of wood, which is IMcfiircd f(ti its cheaptu'ss. Newcastle isdestinetructeidly within the next few years. Jts cnterprisin<>' inhahitants, in view of its manifest destiny, should inaugurate a movement to dispense with wo'od and sliingles, as the principal materials of huilding, and ado[)t stone, which is so plentil'ul on every side, and which would mhl so greatly to the heauty and stability of its huildings, besides bt ing a better protection against tire, whicli has committed such dreadful ravages, not only in New Bnniswick, but in all [)Hrts of tlu' Dominion where wood is largely * W a. CO &3 a o w Ji, six scliools, a court house and jail, a masonic hall, a nKxhanics' institute and a tem- perance hall. To the crc'^'t of the people of Newcastle be it said tliat they are so })eaceable and orderly that it is p.ot necessary to employ a single policeman. Tliere are several hotels in the place, but the best is the '• Waverly,'" kept b} Mr. Stewart, a genial Scotch- man, wlio i.s always indefatigable in his efl'orts to make those who jiatronize him comfortable. Mi . Stewart has resided in Newcastle for many years, and being acquainted with every " nook and corner " about the })lace, will be found a valuable and reliable authority to consult as t<> the best points for angling on the rivers, and the proper kinds of flies, &c., to be used. The tourist will, as a matter of course, ascend the great Mivaniichi River, on the bank of which New- castle is situated. It derives its name from the Mic- mac Indians, and its meaning is "happy rt;treat," by no means an inappropriate name as far as anglers are concerned. It is one of the largest rivers in the Province, being 220 miles long ; its mouth is fully nine miles wide. The tide flows up forty miles from the i - . J- MpyrAPEDfA TO MONCTON. 0<) Gulf. The land on both sides is fertile, l>ut the scenery is not very impressive. The farmers' cot- tages, scattered along its entire? lenuth. present a cheerful and comfortable appearance. The rinr is navigable for large sized ships two miles above New- castle, where it is crossed by the two finest and lai'gcst bridges on the Intercolonial. At this i)oint there is a small island in the centre of the river, which divides it into what are known as the north-Avest and south- west branches. The bridge over the north-west branch consists of six spans of 202 feet each, sn])ported on five i)iers, theculiar formation of the bed of the river. The iron work was constructed by the Phavnixvillc Bridgi> Com- pany of Pennsylvania, and is acknowledged, for l)eauty of design, strength and durability, to be as m ar per- fection as it is possible to attain. The south-west Itridge is after the same style and of the same dimensions as the north-west structure. They are three-tiuarters of a mile aj)art. The Miraniichi is navigalde for small schooners twenty to twenty-tive niiles above the bridge, and foi" canoes forty to fifty miles further uj». The first ship that entered the Miraniichi was the frigate which took the remains of General Wolfe from (Quebec to Eiigland in 1759, a storm having driven her in for 70 GUIDK BOOK TO THE INTEIiCOLONIAL RAILWAY. , ?' safot}'. The various branches of tlie river are cele- brated for their spk'iidid salinon ai)d trout. A fish breeding establisliment has been erected by tlie Gov- ernment on Stewart's brook, one of its tributaries. Tlie Miraniiclii itself abounds witii sahiion, sturgeon, cod fish, mackerel, herring, bass, shad, trout, smelts, lob- sters, oysters, &c., &c. Its tril>utaries, which are very numerous, range in length from eighteen to one hun- dri'd miles ; the principal are Cains, Baie-du-vin, Nappan, Bartibogue, Renous, Bartholemcw and Black riA'ers. The south-west or main bianch of the Mira- michi rises in a lake a short distance from tlu' Tobique, a river running into the St. John, and fiowing with great rapidity over a shingley and rocky bed in an easterly course. It rolls into the Gulf of St, Law- rence through a large and beautiful bay, in latitude 47"' 5 " N, longitude 64= 53 W. In the immediate vicinity of its source there are three or foui- lakes ; about ninety miles from its head it becomes consider- ably expanded in consequenct' of the number of small rlA'ulets running into it. The north-west branch Joins the main river about thirty-five miles from its mouth. It rises in highlands bordering on the east side of the Nepissis(|uit, with which it is connected by n short portage leading to the falls, and runs in a calcareous and rather rocky channel. It is ninety miles long, and receives in4ts course several large tributaries, of which the principal are the Little River, the Tomog- ■2; ® K" Ill I .t;oiiij)S, roila.i;-!' liiver JGreat and Little Sewogle, and the Little Soutli-West. Most t)f these rivers proceed from lakesj and are navigable for eanoe^j during the siiniiner. Tlie Ix'st salmon fishing grounds on the Miramiehi liegin at a [xtiiit nearly lOf) miles ironi its mouth, and are reaclud ]>y stage from Newcastle to Boiestown, sixty miles distant On all large rivers the licst pools are gtn;-!ally found near the mouths of brooks and laiger tributaries m hich enter the main stream. This is tlie case in the Mirami( hi : anglers will find the best fishing at Salmon Brook, Koeky Brook, Clear Water Brook, and Burnt Hill Brook, "which are about ten miles ajiart, While at Newcastle the touiist should not fail to visit the Tabusintac Kivi'r. thirty nnles fr^ m the town. Here you can cateh as nuany sea trout as you wish. Carriages can be hired in the town, which will eonv( y ;'. u to Harris'Hohl.Avhere you hire a canoe, a team of horses and a diiver. After enjoying the hospitality of Hnrris' establishment you start down the stream, the horses hauling the canoe through the shallow water at a rate of speed which sometimes makes it lather uncomfortable for the occuitants, as they are o( casionally in danger of getting cai)sized or swamix'd. Eight miles lu'low the hotel you reach " Big Il(de," the b st po(vl on the liver. Here the trout are so plentiful that they fairly darken the water. Every ca>t is suecessl'ul. The fish range in weight \^ I METAPKDIA TO MONCTOX. 73 fioiii two to six pounds. The trip to tlit- Talnisintae costs $7.00, — is51.00 per (lii\' for the piivilcirc of fishina-, and $(3.00 for team, canoe and diivci-. Opposite Newcastle is the small villii.ue of Nelson. Avitli a poi)ulation of about 300. Tt contains one church, a nmnher of stores, and several saw mills. Between Neweastle and Chatham, a steamer runs f(nir times a day. Chatham is worthy of a visit. It is beautifully situated on the south bank of the rivrr, and is the laigest and most enti-rprising- town on the north shore. Its principal sources of wealth are the fish, lumber and shipbuilding trades. Its streets are lighted with gas, and it contains several handsome buildings, including a Roman Catholic Cathedral, an hospital and college, four churches, masonic and temperance halls, printing and telegraph oftiees, &;v., and a number of steam mills, foundries and shipyards. Millions of feet of lumber, and immense quantities of lish.are annually shi[)ped from it. Tt has an excillent harbour, ac- commodating A'essels of the largcist tonnage. A branch railway to connect the town with the Intercolonial, about nine miles long, has been constructed. Chatham is the largest and most thriving town in the Miramiclii district. It has a i)o[>ulation of about 0,000, and counts anntng its leading citizens names well known in England as the largest and most influ- ential shipi>ers of lumbei' in the Provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. •f*.t_ •fMTJjrt. r A line of Hteamcrs coiinocts Newcastle witli Ked- baiik on the north-west, and Bhiekwcll on the south- west hianches of the Miraniichi, both of wliich will repay a visit, if you have time. Leaving Newcastle Ave pass tliroiigli an almost level and uninteiesting country to Moncton, seventy-eight miles distant. This region is rich in timber resources, whicli Avill doubtless, at no distant day, attract consi- derable attention. The soil is said to be fertile, and a few Settlers are locating along tlie route, and devoting tliemselves to clearing the land bordering on the rail- road. There are eiglit stations in tiie district — Chat- ham Junction, Barnaby River, For(!st, Feriis, Welford Coal Branch, Canaan and Berry's Mills, all situated amidst a dense forest. At Welford a finv new build- dings are being constructed, and several acres of land are being prepared for cultivation. On the Barnaby )'iver some good salmon and trout fishing can be had. It rises near the source of the Kouchibonguac in the County of Kent, and, together with several consider- able branches, discliarges into the Miramichi, about forty-five miles from the Gulf. .V ^^ Ll PffifCl ■ ' CHAPTER y. M O N C T N TO HALIFAX. ^' Moncton, tlic lioad-qimrters of tlio Intercolonial Railway, is bcaiitifull)' situated on a fertile plain at the head of the Petitcodiac lliver. This river is about 100 miles long ; is navigable twenty-five miles for vessels of tlie largest size, and for schooners of sixty to eighty tons burthen for twelve miles further, to the head of tide. Above the head of tide it is navi- gable for boats and canoes fully fifty miles. The Petitcodiac is an important fertilizer to the rich and extensive marshes which skirt its banks, causing them to produce abundant crops of hay for tlie past 100 years, without any other f.!d. The stream is of con- siderable commercial imixtrtance. From Hillsborougli, a port on its banks, the celebrated Albert coal is shipped, and a few miles further up there are extensive wharves, where, large quantities of jdaster of Paris, of superior (juality, are annually siiipped. The Petitcodiac is fed by numerous smaller streams or creeks —the Wel- don Creek, Stoney Creek, Coverdale River and Pollett River— all abounding with trout and small salmon. Large quantities of shad are taken yearly in the Petit- codiae. Moncton, which not many years ago Avas but Mount Allisori Memorial * Library I _l 76 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTKHCOLOKIAL RAILWAY, i a Ktrajnj;liii}4- villufic, lias, siiicr tlic roinoval of tlio Railway ofJices into it, devoloped itself with a iai)idity which can only he witnessed in the case of American towns and (;itics. It has now a population of about 5,000, a large projjortion of Avhoin are connected with tlie Railroad and its extensive "works in the locality. The Railway work-shops cover anareaof fully seventy acres, and consist of three immense buildings, where the rolling- stock and all the nuiterial for the equiiniicnt of the road are inanuf.: turod. The general offices of the Intercolonial are situated a few steps l)ehih(l the depot. The building is f(»ur storeys high, with a freestone front, and presents a very hand- some and substantial appearance. In Moncton there are six liotels, the best being the ''Queen's," situated on the main street, about a ([uartcr of a mile from the station, and the " Royal," a very fine build- ing also on the main street, and about 200 yards from the station. In both these establishments the table is always provided with every delicacy of the season, and they will be found fully equal, in every rewpect, to any hotels of the same pretensions in the Metropoli- tan Cities of the Dominion. At tlie station there is a first-class restaurant kept by Mr. fSangster, formerly of St, John, N, B. Meals are here always ready on the arrival of ])assenger trains. The town contains several churches, a numbiT of stores, a printing offiee issuing a weekly newspaper— the Moncton Times — two 1 - MONCTON TO HALIFAX. 77 l)raiK'h banks, ii telegruiili oliKci', and manutactorics of iron castings, stoani engines, inachiucry, tobacco, leatbcr, wooden ware, kc. Tin- Pctitcodiac Ilivcr is crossed l)y a larg(; and liandsoiue wooden l)ri(lge. The tides of the B;iy of Fiindy, into wliicli tliis river falls, have always attraetvd inueh attention, on account (»f their great el)b and How, and tiie manner in which the tide enters the narrow bays and runs ui> tlu^ rivers, both in N(!W Brunswick and Nova Scotia. The tidal wave t'uters the Bay of Fundy at its wide tunnel- like mouth, i< ke[)t from spreading by its rocky w^alls, .'ind is gradu illy forced into a naiiow bed, where the waters rise with gieat rapidity, rushing up at the head of the bays and uj) the rivei' channels, in what is called a " bore," sometimes tive to six feet in lieiglit. At the bend of the Petitcodiac, near Moncton, tliis phenomenon can be seeii to the greatest advantage, particularly at the height of the sj^ring- tide. The tides rise at their highest to about sixty fett at the head of the bay, and from twenty to twenty-six at the head of the St. John llivt-r. The scenery around Moncton is rather tame, but in the interior it is of a wild and romantic character. The tishing in the neighbourhood does not amount to much, there being comparatively few streams on which snlmon can l)e caught, but trout is plentiful, and of line tlavom-, ranging- from a quarter to four poimds in ■weight. Leaving Moncton we travel for a short distance 4 78 (JUIDK UOOK TO THK INTKHCOLONIAL HAILWAY. t)vor an appanntly fertile plain, at the end of which there is a small hut Ixautiful valley (»n the sl()i)e of the ridge to the north. The road runs on an embank- ment of considerable lieight. After |»assing this valley we come again upon level ground. The Petiteodiac flows alongside the track in an easterly direction, carrying with it thousands of logs down to the mills on its banks, where tliey are sawn and prepared fopnlation is about 1,000. Itcontaliis a t(It'grai)h ofHcc, a i)riiitiiig oHice, stivoral stores, six hotels, three cluu'ehes, a ]innil)er ot nulls, and a large boot and sh()(! faetoiy. Theic are s(»nie i)leasunt drives round tlie liarl»or. On Casey's Capo there is a revolving light, and on Shediae Island, at tlie entriinee to the harbor, there are two permanent lights. On the Shediae IJJver some good trout fisldng eau Ik- had. Weldon's is the princ;ipal hotel in ihe village. It is a tlnce-storey wooden building, located opposite the station. Th(( " Waverley '' also bears the reputation of l)eing a very good house. Point-du-Chenc is the terminus of the laaneh, and is two miles beyond Siiediac. The population is small, and consists principally of wharl hands and railway employes. Heri', during the season of navi- gation, connections are made with steanu-rs of the '' Prince Edward Island Steam Navigation Company " to and from Charlottetown, P.E.I., and Canso, Port Hood, and other i)laces in Nova Scotia. The Quebec and Gulf Ports Steamship Company's steamers to and from Montr(!al, Quebec ami all ports on the St. Law- rence also connect, during the summer months. The scenery along the Shediae branch of the Intercolonial is not i>articularly stiiking ; the soil, however, is good, and the district is thickly settled, principally by French Canatlians. t>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^/ .^'^C^ jp A t/j .^ #/.. 1.0 I.I 2.0 1.8 11.25 1.4 1.6 ,, 6" - ► ■^^ ^;. /A "W Oyym Photographic Sciences Corporation V :0^ <^ ^ <> %'■ ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 0",A ^1^4^h '^^:w t/j ^ /^o ! i 80 Gt'IDK BOOK TO THE INTRRCdiONIAL HAIMVAY. Kctmiilnj^ to Paiiisoc, W(! njsuinc onr journey east- wnrds. Tlici first station wr. naoh is Wcldon Brook, a Rmall Sf'ttlcniiut sinroundtMl on every liaiul by a dense forest. In the intervening distriet patelies of land are b'ini;^ cloarod and i»rei>areid succession, whib? occasionally we catch glimpses of the Memramcook River, as it tlows in a serpentine coursi' to the Shepody liay, an arm of the Bay of Fundy. ()n its banks may be seen here ajid there some tlourishing French Acadian settlements. The village of Mcmranxook is situated in a well- cultivated district, twenty miles from Moneton. It has a population of about 300, mostly French. Sh'p- building is engaged iu to a considerable extent. It contains a large Boman Catholic church, and a hand- some college, four storeys high, built of freesttme. For some miles biv<»nd Memramcook the natural features of the count ly are the same as on the north side of that village. As wr approach Dorchester however, the country becomes more hilly. A monn- I ^ MONCTON TO HALIFAX. 81 tain ran^e of considerable heij^lit runs on the north side, while to the south an elevated plateau, inter- spersed with numerous small vales, stretches away as far as the eye ean see. Dorchester, the capital of the County of Westmore- land, is situated on th< left bend of the Petitcodiac River, near its i-ntrance into Sliei)ody Bay. Th(^ river is navigable for ships of the largest capacity, and Dor- chester is becoming a place of importance. Besides the county buildings, it ct)ntains a number of stores and >M>'' ?a tlive churches and a telegrajdi office. In the vicii.iv a ^'aluable mineral, which by some if designated "jet c<>«,l," and by othtsrs considered pure asphaltum, has been discovered, and is being vigor- ously worked. The mineral is of a brilliant black colour, highly inflammable, and yields a large quan- tity of gas of great illuminating })ower. A branch of the railway, about a mile long, leads to an cxten>>ive wharf, where large quantities of coal are sliipped from the Spring Hill Mines in Nova Scotia. On the oi)po8ite side of the river are Rockland and Hopewell villages, in the neighbourhood of which are extensive freestone quarries, from which large quantities are shipped, particularly from the Caledonia Quarry. In the latter village (juite a large shipbuilding trade is carried on. The scenery here is very attractive. Leaving Dorchester we pass through twelve miles of thickly-wooded country to Sackville, a seaport town H 82 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. I in WeHtmoreland County, situated on a plain at the head of the Bay of Fundy, and Hurrounded by a range of mountains of moderate elevati(m. It is the seat of the Mount Allison College, under the direction of the Wesleyan Conference of the Maritime Provinces, and contains eight churches, two hotels, a tannery, several mills and stores, an iron foundry and two newspaper offices. Shipbuilding is engaged in to a considerable extent. A short distance below the station the river is crossed by a large iron bridge, constructed on the same principle as the others on the Intercolonial Railway. Beyond this the country is comparatively level, well drained and very fertile. Aulac is the next station on our route. The settle- ment stretches over an extensive tract of first-class farming land, which yields very large crops of cereals? &c. The ruins of fortifications erected by the French to resist the attack of the British troops, in the happily long bye-gone days of warfare between England and France, may be seen at Aulac. Here we sight the Bay of Fundy, with the waves dashing furiously against the exposed cliffs along its shore, and also the district through which it is proposed to construct the Baie Verte Canal. The Massisquash is crossed near Aulac by a one span bridge of 100 feet. This stream forms a part of the division line between the Pro- vinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and enters MOSCTON TO HALIFAX. 83 <• <' into the Cum1)oiiaml Imsin througli the Wostmoro- lantl marslies. Travelling for a few miles through a well-settled district, we reach Amherst, formerly known as Fort Lawrence, a seaport of Nova Scotia and tiie cai)ital of Cumherland County. It is pleasantly situated on an arm of Cumherland Bay, and has quite a large trade, especially in lumher and shiplmilding. Tlie popula- tion is ahout 2,000. Besides the county and railway huildings, Amherst contains ahout thirty-five stores, several churches and hotels, mills and factories, two tanneries, a printing office issuing a weekly news- pai)er, a telegraph office and a branch hank. The ruins of the fortifications in the vicinity of the town, constructed during the conflict between the Engli.sh and French for the possession of the country, are worthy of a visit. Leaving Amherst the road runs for a few miles through a thickly-wooded tract of country, with imtches here and there in process of l.Jng cleared and prepared for cultivation. A short distance further ou we pass over a pretty plain, marsliy in some parts, intersected by a small stream, which is crossed by a one-span bridge . The next point of importance on the route is Maccan, situated on the bank of a river of the same name, at a considerable distance from the station. The population is about 300. It contains a woollen 84 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEHCOLONIAL RAILWAY. f mill, a ttuimnv, several stoics and a til'. /^rapli ottito. Tn it« neighbourhood tlicrc are some excellent coal mines, which are still conii)aratively undeveloped, but which will, no doubt, after the deprission now per- vading all branches of commerce disappears, attract considerable attention. There are several tine resi- dences in the village and its vicinity. About a mile below the station there is a shipbuihling yard, out (tf which a number of vessels is annually turned. The scenery along the route beyond Maccan is exceedingly grand and picture8 the east, gleaming in the sini — all form parts ,osf a i)icture une<|ualled for its loveliness, and upon wlijeli the most i>rosaic spectator cannot gaze without . 1 exiK'iicntinp: that plcnsmaMc satisfaction i)ro(luc('d Ity the wondi'iful works of Nuturc, as si-cn in their primeval aspect, unadorned by htiman artifice. Athol, a straggling' viUagf, is tlje next plare reached. The land around the station has apparently Ix'en very recently cleared, it being still covered with charred stumps. Beyond the station the land along tlu^ rail- way track is beautifully cleared, and under cultivation. Here there are several deep cuttings through solid rock, after passing which we enter a thick forest, extending for some miles up to S{)ring Hill, a small setthiment in Cumberland bounty. In its vicinity there are extensive coal beds, which are being workid by a joint-stock company. Leaving Spring Hill, we pass through a woody dis- trict, some parts of which are in process of being pre- pared for cultivation, and a few miles further on we catch a glimpse of a pretty valley, enclosed on both sides by mountain ranges of moderate altitude. This valley is being cleared, and will, no doultt, be some day the scene of a large settlement, it being in close proximity to the railway, and situated amidst lovely surroundings. On an elevated plateau to the east of the valley tlure is a very ]>retty settlement, with com- fortable-looking farmhouses and cottages scattered here and there throughout it. River Phillip is a short distance beyond. It is a small settlement, with a population of only about i M 150. Tlie coimtry around it prcKontH a charming appearance, abounding with small streams and rivers, in which excellent fishing can he had. The Phillip River, on the banks of which the settlement is situated, and from wlijch it dt^rives its name, falls into the Strait of Northumborlan«l, at the mouth of Pugwash harl>or. It is navigable for vessels of twenty-two to sixty tons burtlien seven or eight miles, and for boats and canoes over twenty miles. On its banks an.^ some line frcest<)ne quarries ; limestone is also abundant ; alewives and salmon, as >vell as other migratory fish, abound in its waters. Travelling eastwards we jiass through an undu- lating and wooded district, skirted by lofty mountain ranges, whose peaks are enveloped in a lihiish vapour. At O'lford — a small but enterprising vilhige on the route, having wooden-edge t(K)l and wooden ware factories, and several saw mills — the country becomes more level and more suitidtle for agricultural purposes. The scenery is everywhere attractive. At this point we begin to ascend the Cobeciuid Hills, passing Thomson, Grenville and Wentworth, thriving settlements on our route. This conspicuous range seems to divide the Bay of Fundy into two great forks, the most northerly one some fifty miles in length, and terminating in tlje Cumberland Basin, at the head of which is the town of Amherst ; the more southerly fork not less than eighty miles in length, from ^ MONCTON TO HALIFAX. 87 Cape Chigrt-eto to tlie luad of Minas Basin at Truro. Till' hillH rangf in altittule from 800 to 1,000 fret above the level of the sea ; they extend almost due east and west from Truro to a total length of nhout 100 miles, and to a breadth averaging about ten or twelve miles. The road runs in an irregular course on the brow of the rang*', reaching the highest elevation at Folly Lak<', which is 600 feet above the sea. The prevailing geological formations in the Cobeciuid Hills are granite, perphyry, and clay slate in the upper portions; Hbov<' the shores of the bay, limas, and on the northern side, the formation is of the red-stone and the coal measures. The rang<' altounds with the most valuable minerals, of wliicli a hirge mass of specular iron ore, of une<|tialle(l richness occurs clo.se to Ihe line ; and vvitli the facilitivs jjro- vided for the carriage of coals to the spot, we have no doubt the varied resources of the region will soon attract the attention of capitalists. The Folly Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, with an irregular shont. It is one and-a-half miles long, and rangts in width from tifty to 500 yards. In its neighbourhood is another small lake, in the midst (tf a thick forest. In both lakes good trout fishing can be bad. After passing P'olly Lake we descend l)y a st<'e}» grade to a level country, which is reached a short distance be3'^ond Londonderry. The distance over the Cobe- quid Hills is the most interesting, indeed, we might i say alxt) the; moKt I'xcitin^ that can possibly be tm- vrrscd. Six liuiidrcd ftn't above the level of the sea, on the brow of an almost perpendicular mountnin lan^e, lookinj; down into the deep valley bilow, with its steep boundaries, and tlie Wallace Kiver running inijx'tuously tlirou^dj it into the distant (lUlf (^f St- Lawrence ; occasionally catching a glimpse of tlie deep blue waters of the Bay of Fundy, and the beauti- ful towns ami villages situated ronutntioilly along its shores, is a situation as fas inating, and, at the sani(^ time, as hazardous, as the most ardent admirer of sconeiy and the most caPous scare-crow in pursuit of adventure could possibly desire to be placed in On every hand, and as far as the eye can see, the scenery is bold, varied, and highly impressive. The most important of the several iron bridges on this division is that over the River Folly, with six spans of one liundred feet, eighty-two feet in height from the bed of the river, a striking structun-, built of durable sandstone of various colours. The foun- dations are on rock. It si)ans the eastern portion of the valley at this place. A long, narrow ridge, about fifty feet high, divides the valley of the Folly from that of a snuiller stream. This second valley, eighty feet deep, is crossed by a solid embankment, the stream being diverted through a tunnel into the Folly. Londonderry, Debert and Ishgonish, are small but I *11 o f < > a i 90 OUIDE BOOK TO THE INTRUCOLONIAL RAILWAY. ; I, thriving setthiiuiits on tli(! Halifax Hick' of the Cc 1h> quid HillH. At Londonderry, wliich ih Kitnated on ihe north Hu\v (»f the Cobequid Bay, the Hhip-buildinK trade in carried on to a conHiderabU- <'xtent. The Acadian Charcoal Iron Company have tlieir works here. Thin valuable property has lately been pur- chased by an English Company, which is building two larj,'e blast furnaces for the manufacture of |)ig iron, each beinj;- capable of turning out 20,000 tons of pig a year. They are also building about ten miles of railroad to connect their deposits of ore with the fur- naces ; also steel works, foundries, &c. This jiromises to be a very large; and iujportant industry, and, when fully comi)leted, will have cost nearly £300,000 ster- ling. Debert is located on th(f bank of a river of the same name, which rises in the Cobequid Hills, and at whose sourc*' there are several small lakes abounding witli speckled trout. Ishgonish is a gool>«'- quid Bay, is one of tin- pnttiiHt towns in tli< rrovimc. It has a |)op(i1ation of aliont 5,000, and contains, tiTKidcs tlu' (•!)nnty laiildin^s, srvcral cliinclics and h<»trlH, a laandi liank, a tclr^rapli ottit r, thr I'rovin- cial, Normal and Model Scliools. and mannt'aut many dee]) pctols occur along its course in which salmon and trout congregate! in large numbers. For a short distance ])ast Valley the road runs along the brow of a hill, through deej) cuttings. The rcn-ks in several i)laces rise to a con- siderable height above the raihvav carriages. Bevond this the country is stumi)y. and no settlements are in sight, but the interior is thickly iiojiulated. Leaving Union, Kiversdale. West Kiver and Glen- gairy — small but steadily-growing settlements, with good trout-fishing in thi' vicinity, especially at llivers- dale, within a few miles of which there are three large lakes — we pass on to Hopewell, an interesting little village, where tourists on the way to the splendid fishing grounds of CJuysborough County can hire i carriages. MONCTON TO HALIFAX. 9, J J- Stulleiton, five miles to the east, is the eeiitre of uii immensely rieh eoal distriet. Iron ore is also found here in lari^e quantities, and a fiu-nace is in ()[)eration in the villa,i>:e. The population is estimated at H.OOO. Close hy Stellerton are the old Alhion Mines, \vlii( h havi; heen worked for nearly fifty years; and at WestirvMlh', a few miles away, are the Drummond, Aeadia, and Bhtek Diamond mines. The depression in the eoal trade during the past two years has been seve'ely felt in this loeality, and none of the mines have l»t'tn wctrked to their full ea])aeity for a long time baek ; indeed, some of th< i^i have heen ( losi'd down altogether. Tlesc mines are worthy of a visit. Home of them are very large and deep, extending over 1,000 feet into the interior of the earth. In tli' n( ■iy;hbourhood I'xeellent salmon fishJnti: can be ob- f tained. New Glasgow is three miles from Stellerton, and in many rcspc'ets rese.mblesthe great Seottisli eommereial eity after whieh it has been named. Like the Queen city of the Clyde, it is an inland town, situated in the neighborhood of one of the riehest mineral territories in tilt! world, and also having an extensive shipbuild- ing trade. In this port the largi'st vi^ssels hailing from Nova Scotia have Ikm'U built. The town is divided into two parts by the East River, over whieh is thrown a large wooden drawl)ridgt'. Tlie population is about 3,500, It contains two foundrit s, several 94 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. ■^t i tannt'iicK, a pottery, a luauch hank, a telegraph office, a j)rinting office issulngaweekly newspaper, a number of shipyards, four good hotels, and ahoiit fifty stores. Outside tlie town there are several handsome private mansions. The Intercolonial Coal Company run a railroad, five miles long, from the mine to Abercromby Point, in South Pictou, where the coal is shi])ped. Pictou Landing, eight miles Iron; the last town, is the terminus of the branch. From this point a steamer conveys the passengers to the town, situated at the head of Pictou harbor, which opens into Nmthumber- land Strait, The district around it is exceedingly fertile and well cultivated, and contains extensive coal mines and quarries of building stone. The harbor, a beautiful sheet of water sheltered from every wind, is acknowledged to be tlu- finest on the South shore of the St. Lawrence. The entrance is 200 yards wide. Here is a lighthouse with a fix(;d light, sixty-five feet above the sea. Three rivers — the East, Middle, and West — empty into the basin ; on all of them good trout and salmon fishing can be had. Pictou is a very old town, having been founded 110 years ago by a ])arty of emigrants from Philadelphia, In 1772, thirty families from the Highlands of Scotland arrived in the r.hip " Hector," but some dispute arose between them and the original settlers regarding the land, and the majority emigrated to Halifax and Truro. From time to time, however, subsiquently large numbers of a IM t MONCTON TO HALIFAX. 95 Scotcli eniigmats aiiived and settUd in the county, whicli is now pretty well populated l>y an indust- rious and enteipii/.ing class of peoi)le. The larju^e preponderance of Mackays, Frazers, McLeans, Mac- Donalds, Camphells and Douylasses in the various settlements in the neigiibonrhood of Pictou indicates the nationality of the inhal)itants. Their brave and sturdy fonfathers were f<)rced to leave their native land " to make room for slieej> and d(!er," and find a home amidst the dense forests of North America. They had many diflficulties to contend with : extreme cold in the winter, oppressive heat in the summer. They had to clear the land of its forest covering, and in conse([uence of their distance from civilization and the defective means of communication, they had often to endure hung'-r. Now, however, circum- stances are greatly altered for the l)etter. The rail- way passes close to their doors ; steamers and sailing vessels enter their harbors almost daily, and with these facilities the vast resources of the country are being rapidly developed. Signs of prosperity are visible everywhere, but the country is suscej)tible of still greater develoi)ment, and at no distant da}' it doubtless will become one of the most important commercial centres in the Dominion. Pictou is a well-built town ; its streets are lighted with gas. Coal mining is the principal industry and the chief source of revenue. Large quantities are annually exported to the United -L i 96 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY, r: - u ■ States and difft'iont parts of Canada. The harlior is fro/itii over in the winter, sonu; years tlie iee being fully seven feet in tliiekness, forniin^i' u niaunifieent field for skating-. The j)rincipal Imildings in the town are the Presbyterian Chureh. biiek and stone, (11 the corner of Coleraine and Chureh Streets; the Catholie Chureh, also brick and stone, on Battery Hill; the Court House, on Chureh Street; and the Custom House, near the wharf. The town has also a spKndid academy, Libiary, Masonie Hall, three branch banks, tel<\nrai)h and newspapt-r offices, two steam carding mills, two tobacco factories, an iron foundry, several saw and grist mills, taniu ries, &c. A convent, Young Men's Christian Association Kooins and County Buildings are in process of construction. Shipbuilding is largely ciigiiged in both in the town and in the neighbouring villages. Three or four ships are always on the stocks. In Mie vicinity of the town there is some fine scem-iy, especially along the banks of the West River. A drive of ten tt> twenty miles into the interior brings us to a territory where ranges of mountains extend in every direction, presenting a scene of the most varied and beautiful description. At Maxwell, twenty-five miles distant, there are several large lakes full of bass and trout. Moose, bears and foxes roam through the uninhabited districts of the county in coiisideral>le numbers. Along the shores 9 t mmm ^B ^l-^ ■J I I #> u. r: n H H o o r CI w c H K a; H O o 98 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. 1 of tlie liarl)or, tlie country is generally level ; there is no marsh land ; along the rivers there is much valuable intervale, and much of the upland soil, even to the summit of the hills, is fertile and everywhere capable of cultivation. Outside of Halifax, Pictou is considered to be the richest town in Nova Scotia, the mosi of the wealth having been made in the coal and shipbuilding trades. There arc several hotels in the jdace, in wh' jh the table and accommodation are very good, and the charges moderate. The steamers of the Prince Edward Island Steam Navigaticm Company leave Pictou four times a week for CharlottetoAvn, P.E.I., and Port Hawkesbury, Sydney aiid other i)laces in Cape Breton. Steamers of the Quebec and Gulf Ports Line leave on Tuesdays and Fridays for Charlottetown, P.E I., and Shediac, Newcastle, Chatham and Dalhousie, N.B., and ports on the St. Lawrence. The boats of the Montreal and Acadian Steamship Company also call weekly. The sail from Pictou, through Northum- berland straits, to Charlottetown is very pleasant ; the water is seldom rough, and the boats are strongly built and comfortably furnished. Keturning from Pictou to Truro we get on board the " Express," and resume our journey to Halifax on the main line. Leaving Truro with its pretty white buildings glit- tering in the sun, and its magnificent tract of prairie in front, intersected with numerous small streams, we ■mni MONOTON TO HALIFAX. 09 travi'l through a cliariniiiK country, passing Johnson, a flag station, on to Brookficld, a small village stand- ing in the centre of an excellent agricultural district. There are ritTi deposits of iron ore in its vicinity. The road from Brookfield runs through aheautifully wooded country on to Stewiacke, a small settlement occupied principally by Indians. The population is about 300, Close by it is a river of the same name, which rises in the Pictou hills, and, flowing down tln-ough lTi)per, Middle and Lower Stewiacke, falls into the Shubenacadie River, about six miles above the Bay of Fundy. Its total length is tifty miles, but it is not navigable except for canoes, small boats and gondolas. The latter go up five or six miles to the head of tidt' ; canoes can go to its .source. The inter- vale and marsh on the banks h very fertile, and yield large crops. This rivt-r contains fish of all sizes, from the smallist minnow to salmon weighing twenty-five pounds. Smelts, gaspereaux, trout, bass, shad. &c., also abound in birg(! numbers. The river flows past the village in a scrjKntine course, and is crossed by a small iron bridge. Five miles further on is Shubenacadi<^, one of the lov(;liest si)ots in this .section of the (ountry. Its Weird sunsets, always considered one of the grandest sights in Nature, " tipping the hills with gold," '' the fall of waters and the song of birds, the hills that e( ho to the distant herds, are luxuries excelling all the 100 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL HAILWAY. glare the ^vorld can boast and her thhi favorites .sliare " Here is a luipjty retreat, with an exhilarating atmosj)her<', where the hnsincss man can reeujx'rate his exhauKted energies, wliere the student of nature can find innumerable objects for study and meditation, and where the pleasure-seeker can obtain all the enjoyment connected with salmon angling. The setthnient, as its name indicates, was originally found;'d by Indians, but very few of tlu m live in the village. They have numert)us huts throughout the surrounding ('ountry. The Shubenacadie Kiver, upon whose bank the villfige is situated, is one of the jirin- cipal streams in Ner, hay and gy|)SfUWi »re shipped from the station. T ■LI._^L.^..x J..IJU MONCTON TO HALIFAX. 101 Elnisdult!, five miles tlisUuit, is Hituated on a piece of m{ignlfic(!iit prairie land, enclosed on the east by a chain of mountains. Here the Nine Mile River joins the Shubenacadie, and their confluence is noted for its fine salmon and trout fishing. Enfield is two mih's further on. The district con- tains produ(tive g
;round, behind the outside wall. The barracks and inuf^a/jnts within the fort are bomb j»roof. From the C'itudrl a magni- ficent prospect of the varied scenery < f Halifax is obtained. Eastwards and westwards the sea and sky bound the distant horiz<»n, whili' in other directions low ranges of hills rise and swell, and fade into a dim line of purple fifteen or twenty .iles away. Along the Atlantic coast, from (!anso to Yarmouth, the silvery arms of the turl)ulent ocean d. It would take a large volume to contain a minute description of the various points of interest in the city and vicinity, and the historical incidents associated with most of them. In this work the most prominent only can be nujn- tioned; and first of all, as Halifax is the only mili- tary i)ost now in Canada, we shall first inspect its naval and military institutions. We have already referred to Fort Geoige, or the " Citadel,'' from which such a magnificent view of the country is obtained. The next place in point of intett'st is H.M. DOCKYARD, which Avas founalatial in appearance, hut unwisely situated on tlie common, which should he reserved for the free use of the pul)lic. This palace of brick is free to the iH)orat all times, and the inmates sometimes number over 500. THE MEDICAL COLLE(iE is in the same loiality. It is a neat wooden struc- ture. "TTW" THE (MTV OP HALIFAX. 117 A CoNVKNT devoted to tlic " Sacred Heiirt," wlieiict' Sisters of Churity issue on cinuids of mercy, is in tho same (luarter of tho town. Here, also, is tho HALIFAX infants' HOME, one <)t" the newest of Halifax's many charitahle in- stitutions. Fifty-tivo infants were received in the Home durinfz: its rtrst year, and tiie lives of over two- thirds were saved. The DISl'KNKARY stands near the centre of the city and in the need- iest locality. During the year 1875 this institution ministered to over 2,000 sick poor. Ahouta mile from the city is the INDrSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR BOVS, an institution whidi has an arenie Court sits, with the jail in its vicinity. The City Market and the Police C<»urtare u^ly buildings near the centre of the city. The City Prison, a granite struc- ture, occupies a very fine and prcaninent position about a mile to the north of tin- city, while about th<' same distance to the south stands the Provincial Peniten- tiary in a cozy, seelud' d nook. There are seveial business houses and banking institutions, on the princii)a] thoroughfares, of magni- ficent architectural proportions, and somi; private residences constructed in a most chaste and handsome manner. But the real charm of Halifax consists in its WALKS AND DRIVES, its parks and commons. Proceeding up the harbour we see the dockyard, to which reference has already been made, with the gallant ships of war slum- bering peacefully, as if n > thunder slept in their sides. The "North End" is beautiful in summer, with its trees and gardens, and elegant private man- sioiifj. Westward of the town are green fields, cot- tages, trees trim and leafy, trees small and scrubby, and waste land, till you reach Dutch Village. We THE CITY OF HALIFAX. 119 come Huiith-eaHtwaidly to tlie head of the North-Wt'Ht arm, vvlieio the hcciio is praceful and very drlightfiil. Wealth, tasto, faHhion, arv fietkiug rctreatH along tho "Arm," and rapidly tranKt'orniingwuHte placcH into charming gardens and fertile fields. The houses are, for the most part, painted white, and they nestle amid groves of dark green. Following down the course of the "Arm " we come to the "Park," with its miles of road.s and paths winding through the native forest and by the surrounding shore, and among forts with tht-ii- stui)endous walls of earth and granite West of iu^ Citadel extends the Common — the Ccnn/»ux Martiux ■ i Halifax — the scene of many a Inilliaiit militai^ pageant. South of the Common comes ihe extensive and beautiful public ganhns ; and west of these again is Camphill Cemetery, the city (»f the dead, — flat, shelterless, and unattractive, -the vt;ry antitheses of Greenwood or Mount Auburn. Across tlic Harbour eastwardly, more than a mile away, rises Dartmouth, its houses white and pretty, and numy of them era- bosome^orinan caps arul their kirtles of homespun. And In the ev mlug fine repeat Evangeline's story. While from its rocky caverns the deep-mouthed neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of t he forest," These immortalized scenes can l>e reached by the Windsor and Annapolis Bailway. which is being extended to Yarmouth. r: ' { 126 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. Halifax is the Ocean terminus of the Intercolonial Railway, which connects with the railway systems of the Upper Provinces and the United States. Having thoroughly explored Halifax and its sur- roundings, we must now proceed to St. John by the Intercolonial Railway. ^S^sJ'^te' r4 1 i^ I_ I- C 11 A P T 1^] R V { L M O N C T O N T O a T. J H N, N. B, The "Express" from Halifax stops for a few minutes at Moncton, where we can obtain refresh- ments at the magnificent dining saloon at the station- The signal for departure being given, we again step on board the train, and resume our journey through a comparatively level and wooded country, with patches here and there cleared and under cultivation. Beyond Boundary Creek — a flag station, ten miles from Moncton — tke land is more extensively cleared, and beautiful settlements are seen on every hand along the route, with neat and (xunfortable-looking farm- houses nestling amidst the green woods. Salisbury is the first station we reach. It is a small village situated on the Petitcodiac River, with a popu- lation of about 350. It contains a telegraph office, several stores and saw mills. Ten miles further on is Petitcodiac. a thriving town in the county of Westmoreland. It is located on a fertile plain^ well watered, with an elevated plateau rising behind it, wooded all over. The houses present a neat appearance, and have that air of com- fort about them which is witnessed everywhere in w 128 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEUCOLONIAJi RAILWAY. . . . ^ those flourisliing nual districts ulonjj: the line of the lutercolonifii. The villji^e has two chuiclies, two saw mills, a f(iW stores, two hotels, a puhlic hall, and a tele^naph office. The population is estimated at about 500. For the next fourniiles the road runs through a beautiful valley. The land is c(miparatively level for a sliort distance on both sides of the track, while beyond a chain of high hills, covered with a thick forest, rises on both sides. This valley, notwithstand- ing that the soil is very fertile, is but sparsely settled, only a few small villages being seen here and there through it, the principal being Anagance, where there is a station Peiiobsquis, the next stopping place, is in King's county. It stands on a level plain, encircled by a lofty range of hills on all sides, and contains a telegraph office, several stores, two Sf^v mills, and a number of salt wells, besides manufactories of paper, leather, carriages, &c. The population is about 450. Beyond this the country is more woody, but now and tiicn we pass cleared strips of land, on which good crops are raised. A river which flows through this district is crossed by a handsome iron bridge, of English manufacture. The country along hero presents a charming appearance, being level on both sides of the line, with clusters of trees with V' ft '^'I'i.i^Wf their varicgatt'd tblia^n- scattiTcd licre and tluTc throujjchout tlio settU'imnts, and hills of moderate altitude rising on tlic left han; very l)retty ; it has a ])o]>uhition of Ixtween GOO and 700. The scenery around it is vi^ry fine, and in many resj)ects similar to that of Dingwall and Stralh- l)ef['er, in the county of Ross-shire, Scotland. 'J'here is an air of calm and rejiose about it which is really charmin.i;-. In the immediate neighhourhood of the village some good salmon fishing can be had,iind al)out five or six miles distant there nre several lakes in which salmon and trout are i)lentiful. There ictur- csqii' ; the Kennebaceasis flows elose to the traek, and on till left hand side there is a range of hills clotlied with eveiy variety of tree indigenous to the latitude, broken lu-re and there by deep ravines and narrow gorges, through whieh small streams rush inipetnously to the deep dark waters of the large river below. In the spring the riwr overflows its banks, and this district is floddi'd. The stations on the route to Kothsay are Hami>t()n, Nauwigewauk and Quispamsis, all small but nourishing settlements. At Piothsay there is a shipyard, where vessels of considerable size are built. The country beyond this is very interesting, being in- terspersed by numerous small streams and l)eautiful hikes, in whi< h salmon, ti'out, &c., abound. Riverside, Torryburn and Brookville, small flag stations, are passed on the left. At these points there are some fine summer residences owned by St. Jolm merchants. In front of Riverside theie is a beautiful lake, along the shores of which the road runs. One mile beyt)nd Brt)okville is Coldbrook, a small but pretty village with some very handsome binldings, "t^ .L h MONCTON TO ST. .fOilN. N. n. 131 H- and threo miles inrtlwr n„ uv ,vuch St. .lol.n, the iommvYvml imporiini. cf th.- Provinof ..f Now Brims, witk. JJftwren Moncton un.l St. J„hn th,- fernery i.^ overywhen' vrry uttractivc-. Tlw district is wril .settled, and th<. iiihabitai.ts apiuar t<. l.e i.i comfort- able (•ircuinstane<.',s. ■^^^sIgj^. c^a^N X^Cic^---- .cdjse3 t^^^a^fcri ST. JOHN, N.B. : IT8 PUBMO 1N8TITUTI0NH, MAONIPICEKT DHIVKS, ETC. On the anivjil of trains at St. John a long line of tiiniagcs Kunounds the «tation, and tlicio is the same amount of bustle and excitement in connection with the removal of your "traps'' as in other cities. St. John is particularly fortunate in jjossessing accommodation for visitors, unrivalled in Canada, or indeed in any tow - the same size on the American continent. 1. ,'ictoria Hotel, situated on the corner of Duke and Germain Streets, is a magnificent .square structure of brick, with a free- stone front, ftnir storeys high, and is one of the prin- cipal attractions in the city. This hotel is acknow- ledged to be the best in every i;espect in the Dominion. It has accommodation for over 300 guests; the rooms are large, airy and magnificently furnished ; the parlors and other public rooms are laid out in a most tasteful and attractive manner ; the bill of fare is always va- ried and contains all seasonable delicacies ; the cook- ing is as near perfection as any one could desire; the servants and waiters are extremely polite and attentive, and the popular manager, Mr. Sweet, is ever indefat- ^ THK CITY OK HT. JOHN', N. H. 1 3:1 i^ahlc ill his cttorts to inal<<' his patrons cointortahh-. Tlic spacious jii can sfat 200 pi'oplr. Tlu* huiUling is heated hy steam throu^liout, an«l the rooms are also provided with jiiates. A st<'am eh'A'a- tor conveys fi:uests from one flat to the other. From the cu[)oia of the liotel a nia^nilicent view of the y land. \ft('r thnu; days spent in Hcvcial niisut'ct'sst'ul attacks, a Swiss sentry wlio had Ix'cn I)ril»('f ten minutes durinji, the i)revaienee of fo,us, and whieh ean he heard at a distance of from tour to eii^ht miles. The passage west of tlie island has in it ten feet of water, that to the east sixteen feet, and abreast of the eity there are from ei^ht to twenty-two fathoms ; both sides of the entrance arc composed of shar}) rocks wliich beeonie dry lit low water. About tlirce (quarters of a mile north of the lighthouse is a vertieal beacon fixed on the edge of fi rocky ledge, whieh forms the west side of the channel, ami has deep water close to it. On the east side of the channel, below the town, a break-water has been constructed to intercept the violence of the waves occasioned l»y southerly gales. The entrance of the rii\'er ISt. John into the harbour, about one and-a-half miles above the city, is through a rocky gorge, ninety yaicls wide and 400 yards long, occasioning ver}^ ri'markable flats. The ordinary rise of the tide in the harbour is twentv-one feet; at the Vernal Ecpiinox it rises twenty-five feet. At low tide the waters of the river are about twelve feet higher than those of the harbour; at high tidi' the waters of the harbour are five feet higlier than those of the river, and hence the phenomenon of a falling c ?3 a: l-H I BBi 1 ^ I ' i 1' I m outwards and inwards at every tide. Above the falls the tide seldom rises more than four feet. When the waters of the river and harhour are on a level, vessels can nass the falls, but this can only be effected during a period of fifteen or twenty minutes at each ebb and flow of the tide. At times of groat freshets, occa- sioned by the sudden melting' of the snow, the tides do not rise to the level of the river, and consequently it is not possible for vessels to ascend the falls. The depth of the fall is about seventeen feet. A magnifi- cent suspension bridge;, 640 feet in length, spans the rocky gorge, about 100 feet above low water. At this stage it may be as well to give a description of the ST. JOIIX RIVKH, which forms so prominent a part of the harbour. Its Indian name; is Loos/dnok, signif3nng the "Long Eiver." It is the i)rincipal river in the Province of New Brunswiek, and rises, under the name of the South-west Branch, at the Metgi'rmette Portage in the Highlands, Avliich scjtarate the; State of Maine from Canada, n(>ar the source of the Connecticut. It flows due north-east to the junction of the St. Francis, in latitude 47^ 10 N., longitude 68^ 54 W., a distance of al)out 150 miles, which course about 100 miles, commencing at the influx of the North-west Branch, is known as th(! Wallastook River. Below the. entrance to the St. Francis the St. John flows in an ; THE CITY OP ST. JOHN, N. B. 141 irregular E. S. E. course to the (.fraud Falls, in lati- tude 47'' 5 N., longitudo GT • 45 W., wiicre tlie river lias a perpendicular descent of seventy or ei.ulity feet, abounding in i)ictures(iue scenery; thenc(^ its direc- tion is nearly south to about latitude 4G^ N., where it bends suddenly esist, and flows in this genc^ral direction for about 100 miles to the entrance of the outlet to Grand Lake, below which tin' river flows in a broad channel due S. 8. \V. Its entire length is estimated at 450 miles. To the Grand Falls, 225 miles from the sea, i>s course is wholly within the Province of New Brunswick From a point about three miles above the Falls, where the eastern boundary of Maine intersects the St. Joliii, to the entrano' of the St. Francis, a distanc' of seventy-five miles, the boundary between Maine and New Brunswick is found in the middle channel or deei)est part of the river. From the mouth of the St. Francis to about latitude 46^ 25 N., longitude 70" 4' W., a distance of 112 miles, the river has its course wholly in Maine; but, from the last mentioned point to the monument at the source of the river on the IMetgernictte Poitagj, a distance of about thirty-eight miles, the right bank only is in the Province of Quebec. The principal tributaries of the St. John are the Oromocto, Aroostook and Alagash from the west, and the Kcainebaccasis, Washademoak, Salmon, Nashvvaak, Tobiqiie, Ma- dawaska and St. Francis from the east. Vessels m ■f 1 142 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY, of 120 tons Hsccnd the St. John to Frcdericton, oiglity miles from the Buy of Fiindy. Small steamers ply to Woodstock, scvcnty-fivo miles fur- ther np, and occasionally make trips to the Grand Falls. Above the Grand Falls the river has been navigatedhy a steamer forty miles to the mouth of the Madavvaska, and from tliis ]H)int boats and canoes ascend almost to its si-urces. It is estimated that the St. John and its tributaries afford 1,300 miles of navi- gable waters. The area drained is computed at 17,000,000 acres, of which 9,000,000 are in NeAv Bruns- wick, 2,000,000 in Quebec, and 6,000,000 in Maine. A great portion of this is occupi(.'d by dense forests of pine, hacmctac, and other timber, of which vast quantities are annually rafted down the river. The valley of the St. John is remarkable for its fertility and picturesque beauty. Returning to the harbour, PAUTRIDCIE ISLAND, as has been already stated, stands as its guide and guard at its entrance. It is circular in shape, rising with precipitous rocky banks, to a height of about seventy or eighty feet above low water, and contains about 100 acres of land. To the left of the island, and about a mile distant, NEGROTOWN POINT, a high bluff, overlooking and commanding the west- ern entrance to the harbour, looms up. Some years '-^. ^ , THE CITY OF ST. JOHN, N. B. 143 ii^^o we Were infonui'd that n l)iittcry was erected on til is i)oint, but tin; ,nuiis, if ever placed in [josition, have been removed, and the "fortification" is rapidly hecoming delapidfited. Between I'artridyv Island and the city, at the lowcjr exti'eniity of a reef of rocks, i^s a beacon lij-ht, to which allusion has already bi'i'n made. It is of great service to vess'ds entering the harbour chu'lng stormy weather. The WHARF ACCOMMOnATION has been greatly improved and enlarged within the past few years, but there is still ])lenty of room for further imi)rovements and extension. The substitution of stone — Avliich is so plentiful in the neighboiu'hood — for timber, in the construction of the wharves, would greatly improve the ap])earance. TOPOGHAPHY. The city is artistically and architecturally a success. The turtle-shell contour of its site adds much to its pictuicsqneness, and when approached from the sea it has a very imposing appearance. The wbole of the elevated portion of the city i-onsists of solid rock, which, for the purpose of forming tolerable streets, has had, in many places, to be excavated to a depth of thirty and forty feet. Within the past few years the sidewalks have been greatly improved, and the system of drainage has been brought as near perfec- tion as it is possible to attain, the elevated character .■1 144 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTEHCoLONIAL RAILWAY. of the city rendering tliis possible, althougli at great expense, neaily all the excavations having had to be made tln'ongh roek. The streets to the sontii of Union Street cross each other at right anghs, but those to the north of that street are irregularly laid out, owing to the uneven character of tliat portion of the city. The buildings are chiefly of brick and stone, and many of the public edifices have an elegant appearance. The prineiiial business thoroughfares are King, Prince William, Water, Dock and Charlotte Streets ; but the trade of the city is increasing so rapidly that many streets which, but a few years ago, were occupied exclusively by private residences, are being fast converted into "busy marts of trade." KING STHEKT. This is the Broadway of St. John. It extends from the St. John River, on the west, to Courtenay Bay, on the cast side of the city. At its foot is the MAKKET SLIP. This is the principal rendezvous of the vessels loaded with produce, fish, and cordwood, intended for sale in the city, and at times presents a very busy and excited scene. The wharves on either side of the slip, called respectively North and South wharves, arc the scenes of lively competition between the verdant "blue noses" and their oily, but not more cunning city TIIK CITY OF ST. .fOlIX, N. V. 145 brctliron. A lurjic iinioimt <>!' tin; luavN' iMisiia-sH of St. .John is tninsucti'd in tlio r<',i;i(>ii of tliosr wlwiivos, and the aroma pfcnliar to tlicni, although by no means agrocablo to strangers, seem to have a healthy ett'cct upon the people r<'t 'ixliii^^ stoiic Imildiii;;. wliidi coii- tuiiis, besides the various jury rooms, Jiidjifs and barristers' rooms, tlie Supreme and County Court rn tiie opposite side of Lvinj^ Street, is the oi.n HI iivi\(i c.norxn, a most d(di^litful retri'at from tlic dust and strife of the busy streets and a constant I'Uiinder of th<' vanity of all eartldy things. Surrouny tlicir .si/c: these an- nsi'd as the coni]>nls<)rv residence ol' some ot' our tellow-(r(^atnres. At dilferent times proposnls have he 11 sii]»mitte(l to eoiistniet a hiidi^'e across thi' hjiv, hut hitherto no action has heeii tjik'n in the matter. It is said thnt the (lit'ticulties to he contended with are not very ureJit. and miirht ensily h- oveiconii'. the sandy hottom ot tiie hay hcinu- free from water wh<'n the tide is out, except for a slnirt distaiH'c in tlie centre, throuiih which tlie marsh stream finds its way. Should the hjiy he ever ciosscd hy a hridijfe, a siH's to IMtt Street, turninj4' down which, aft r crossinu- Leinster, Princess, Orange, Duke, Meidchnhuri;- and <>)neen streets, we arrive at St. Jaines Strei-t. near the coriiei' of which is >^ ! i wuanxs' i'hotrstant oiumian ASVLr>f, a heautiful red and grey freestone and granite struc- ture, three storeys high, hmlt in the Gothic style of architecture, and in heauty of design and execution surpassed hy few piihlic huildings in the l*rovince. It is a lasting monununt to the generosity and kindly spirit of its founder, tlie late Stephen Wiggins, Ks(|., m •"ji^ '^-^io^fmramrmm 150 GUIDE BOOK TO THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. a foriuei- resident of St. Joiin ; Imt those entrusted Avith its erection and the disposal of the fund set apart for till' purpose, seem to have liad in view more the establishment of an edifice with a beautiful exterior rather than the providinji" of aceonimodation for the Protestant orphans of the- city, which its generous founder contenii)lated. The buildinj^-, although it cost upwards of $100,000. has accommodation for but thirty or thirty-five inmates, besides the necessary officers. The MARINE HOSI'ITAL stands nearly opjiosite the Asylum. It is a wooden edifice, with nothing- particularly striking in its ap- pearance, but the surroundings are tastefully laid out, and the " sick toilers of the s-'a" are treated with every kindness by the managers. A short distance to the west of this, on tlx^ corner of St. James and Car- marthen Streets, are the • GAS WORKS, from which radiate, in all directions throughout the city, about forty-five miles of p'i[)e. The Com- pany owning till! works was organized in 1845, and the erection of the l)uildings, &c., was pushed forward so vigorously that in September of the same year they were enabled to su|»ply some portions of the city with gas. Immediately to the north of Car- ^. J THE CITY" OF ST. JOHN, N. B. 151 mai'tlien, and runiiinji: to tlu- U'ft from it, is St. Andrews or Harding' Street. A sliort walk along this street brings us to queen's square, whieh, like its royal consort, King's S(iuare, is situ- ated between Charlotte and Sydney Streets. This beautiful piece of land, which might be made, at little expense, an ornament to the city, is sadly neglected, and bears the marks of vandal hands and feet. In the centre of the square is a band-stand, erected for the use of the regimental bands in those days when St. John was a garrisoned town. Here the rlifr. of the city were wont to gather, to listen to the spirited music of the l)ands, and chat with the red-coated gentry. The S(iuare is encircled by some verv tine , residences. Proceeding on our way up Queen Street, we soon arrive at GERMAIN STKKET. At its corner we observe a neat bri( k chureh belonging to the Baptists, bearing manv tiery m ars on its sides and front. On the corniM' of Duke and Germain Streets stands the Victoria Hotel, the finest house in the Dominion, and near it, front- ing on Duke Street, is the Victoria School, the newest of St. John's many educational institutions. It is a four-storey building of l)rick, with a freestone front and granite pillars, and can ac-coniUKxlat*} 850 children. The building is fitted up with every ap|)liance neces- sary for tlie comfort of the pupils, and caknhited to assist tlieni in the prosecution of their studies. Tlie cliilih'cii are chissifiedaccording to their advancement ; the youngest being on the lirst floor, and gradually ascending accordin.£, to tliiiir progress, to the foui'th fiat, which is occu})ied by the most advanced. A visit to the institution should V)i' made while in this vicinity. Tlie Piincii)al, Mr. John Har])er, is always ready to show strangt'rs through the Imilding, exi)lain to them the manner in which things are managed in connec- tion with it, and also give tlcm an oi)portunity of witnessing the i)rogress of the children entrusted to his care. Tlie writer was }»articularly struck by the intellectual abilities of the pupils attending the institution ; the jx-rfect order which was observed in , every d;'j)artment, and the excellent arrangements for emptying tlu; building in case of fire or other accident. It may not be out of place to state here the case of a young girl named Ida Rutherford — under ten years of age —who was a i)upil in the Victoria School on the occasion of the writer's visit, and who displayed for her age most remarkable efficiency in the differ- ent suhjecti-' she studied. She read Latin as easily as English, ana aiot only that, but thoroughly understood what she read, and gave beautiful translations of several dif'Hcult passages. In tlR* Kugliish branches, ) !15W!BWi rUK CITY OK ST. JOHN, \, n. 153 aritlmn tic and even in inatlicnifitics, she cxliibitcd vvoiidcrfnl pi'oticioncy. Elocution, however, was lier forte; she recited a few verses (.f •' iMlinlturuli uf'ter Floddcn" with a diiiniatic foi'ce. eiirnestness jind in- tensity of fcclino- wliieh could iuirdly he surpassed l»y a " piofessional.'' Siic is certainly a •• prodii^y '" in her way, and, if spared, will doubtless make hei- nuirk in the world. But to retiun to St. (ierinain Street, the lot af tin- kind in the l)(»minion, having a seating capacity of two thousand. It is en- tirely of brick, cost §GO,U()0, and was opened to the 1 I public ill the suniiiijiof 1872. PioiccdiniiiUp G(!i'maiii, the lii.st str(!('t We icacli is JMiiietss, at'tci" crossing' MJiicli the tiist object wiiirh attracts uttciitidii is 'I'lJlMTV C^lM'IU'll, a very iiiiiK>siiif4- wdodcii strr.ctmc, built in 179<\ and b(,'lonni.c as the church is in existence. In rear of tlie church, and fronting- on Cliarlottt' Street, is a large school-house, built somewhat in a similar style. Contimiing along Germain. Ave. arrive at King Street once more, and crossing it and proceeding up the hill, we reach the Country Markc t. one of the tinest buildings of the kind in the D(nninion. It was opened this summer, and is (x-rtainlyan honour to St. John. Tlienext street we arrive at is Union, which unites the regularlv and i; ^Uliiai THB CITY OF ST JOHN, N. R. . 155 irregularly laid out portions of the city, and probably from this dcrivt-s its name. Tin- portion of (Jcrmain Street lying to the north of rnion is known by the name of Wellington Street, but what iis illustrious namesake ever had to do with it wonid be dittirult to tell. At the ui>[)er end of it. however, there are seve- ral buildings worthy of biing visited First, on ac- count of its aged ap[)i arancr, conns St. John, or "Stone Clmrch,'' as it is familiarly called, with its Sabbath'school-house, also of ston ', iul joining. The building is a plain, un])iitcnding-lo(!king (Uic, and belongs to the (Jhurcli of England. It was erected in 1824, but is not the worse of its liandiing by old Father Time The Mechanics' Institute (duies next in orde^r. It is a laige wooden structuri', en cted in 1840 at a costof $20,100. The large liall has a seating eapaeity of about 1,500, and, [trior to tlic (.p: )nng of tho Academy of Music, was a favouiite jtiai c (^aiuuse- ment, all the public m.-rtings, exliil»!ti"ns, concerts, &c., being conducted in it. Tn addition to the hall, the Institut(> contains a library with about 7,(»00 volumes ; a reading-room supi)licd with all the leading home and foreign periodicals, and a niusi um with many objects of interest. Calvin (Jhnrcli, belonging, as its name indicates, to tlu' Presbyterian denomina- tion, stands on the oj)posite side of the street. It was built and is supported entirily by voluntary contri- butiims. The seats are free. Ueturning to Union II ii-'. v: • i y ir>() OUIDK BOOK TO TIIH INTKHCOLON'IAL HAILWAY, StiVH't and croshiiijn- tlic tcnninus of Dorclicstcv Street, we arrive at Cliarlotte Street, near the eonier ni' wliicli, toward Kind's Square, is the liall of tlie YOUX(; men's eiimsTiAx association, a tine tlir -e-storc}' l>riek Ituildin^- witli a granite front. It was ereeted in 1872 at a costof $?.8,00(>. The lower fat is fitted up as stoies ; the second Hat eontains tlie jiarlour, reading and class loonis, all of which are coni- fortaltly furnished; and the n|)|)er tlat is taken U]> Ly the hall, which luns the full length of the Ituildiug^ eiiihty by fifty feet, and has a seatin.u' cai>a. and s veial oiner ollict's. There is a reju-ating sigiial station (m the roof: th(.- dilb-reut signals jfiven on I'artrid'. Isf ind ot eSSels in HllX ht, Pilot want (l." k<'.. are yr\h ati d here. Th' re is also a storm signal station. I> sjjatches I'egarding the weather arc recei\ed h;re fronj i>oijits down the Bay < f Fund\and from Washington, an\iw atmosphere wiiicii surrounds us, and take a. looic at the beautiful panorama wiiieli stretches out 1> lore us, full of life an' is ^Main Str.etj wliich is always a scene of <-oiisidciiiliI<' hustle and activity. Tiieve are .s >nie veiy tine stores on this street; indeed, several ofthcni c(-nipare vi ry tavoiahly with those of St Jolin. The most int;r(>ii strands of No. 10 wire, or 3.0(10 strands in all. havini:- an ahsolutc tensile stren;4tli of 1,125 tons. 'J'he comhini'd h'nuth of the stiantis is^ ahoiit 570 miles. The cahhs are snj>portcIe -reen. The atniosphcr*; here is very cooi. "suitijilly at tli' approach of night, when the chilly, fougy air conies in from the sea. Driving slowly down tiie hill we arrive at the present terminns of the Kin'oi>ean and North Am^^fican Ihiilway, at the foot of itodnev street. Previous to 1872, ])assengers left tile cars at Fairville and diove to tlie city in coaches, crossing the SusjH'nsion biidge, but in that year the line was oi^ened through to Carleton. thus saving jjassengers an immense amount of trouble. At Carleton ue get on board the feriy boat and soon reach the city side of the harbour. Tlu' ticket oltice f- L •n g IS 1 'S 1 n ,t t 1 _' - THE CITY OF ST. JOHN, N. B. 107 of the Ilailway is at tlie corner of Princess and Water Streets. Another magnificent drive is tliat to tlie lilUAL CEMETERY, •Nvliicli can be reached by drivino: alontr Cliarlotte, Union and Waterloo or Brussels Streets to the Marsh Bridge, and out the Marsh Eoad. A more eiuhanting spot than this, or a locality better suited for a c( nietery, it would b(^ difiticult to conceive of. The natni;il forest growth has been prescM'ved as much as jiossible while laying out tin? grounds, and nature and art combined, render the place one of great Ix-auty. Several hours may be spent wandering about the intricate jiatliAvays and avenues, and yet, after all, you inay go away with- out seeing the whole. It is open to the public daily, Sundays excepted. A mile and a half furtlier on is Moosejiatli Trotting Park. The course is circular, one-lialt' mih' in cir- cumference. Following the left hand road, at'tira, few minute's drive we arrive at Lawlor's Lake, a ])ii tur- esque sheet of water on the Intercolonial. A mile or two further on Ave arrive at the Kenneba( casis — the aquatic racing ground of New Brunswick. Bothsay. a short distance beyond, on the routi; of the railwav, is a favourite resort for pic-nickers. Her« many of the business men of the city have drliglitful suniunr residences.. Another delightful drive is that down the bay shore r I TO MISPECK. On tliis road the first object which attracts our atten- tion is tlie Penitentiary, a massiv(^ granite structure, 120 feet h)ng by 45 feet M'ide. The prison gronnds are eighteen acres in extent, and are enclosed by a high stake-fence. There ari' a number of worksliops within th<' enclosure, in wiiich the convicts are em- ployed. Tlie clothing worn by the prisoners is man- ufactured in the Penitentiary. A short distance further on is the Poor House, the last resort of those who ha\M' fared badly in the battle of life. Both institu- tions are worthy of a visit. After a drive of some eight miles further — scmietimes through a rich farming conntry, and again amid the wildest and most rugged scenery imaginable — now along the sea beach, with the waves rolling almost u]) to our horses' feet, and anon perched hundreds of feet above the water — we arrive at Mispeck, the surroundings of which would drive a painter nuid with delight, and cause common-place, matter-of-fact people, to become sentimental. The woollen mill, saw mill, dams, sluices, falls, rocks, hills and houses combine to form a picture whose equal it would be difficult to find anywhere. Very good front fishing may be had in the stream and in the lake in which it rises,. and cod and haddock fishing in the bay. About three miles further along this road a pot of treasure, supposed to have been deposited by Kidd, the Banker pirate, was found some years ago. x^ Y Along the LOCH LOMOND KOAD we obtain somo glim])fies of very fine sivMinicns of New Brunswick scenery. Starting from the Marsh Bridge we follow the right hand road [)assing to I\Iis- peck. Ahouttwo miles out, the Roman Catholic Cenu'- tery will attract your attention, and a mile further on Silver Falls, a heautifnl cascade on the Little Kiver. A short distance beyond this fall is a bye-path leading to Long Lake, distant about 200 yards. Boats can be hired at the Lake from Mr. Harrigan, who will also give full infplying the city with water. Driving on for some distanee we observe nothing worthy of i)articular mention until we reach .!^. LOCH LOMOND. There is splendid hotel accommodation at the lake and in its neighbourhood. At its foot stands Bunker's Hotel, and three and a-half miles away " Lake House," at both of which boats, fishing-tackle &c., can be obtained. The proi)rietor of the " Lake House," Mr. Joseph Dalzell, is thoroughly posted on all matters concerning fishing and shooting, and he is 1 To GUIDK BOOK TO TIIK INTKRCOLONIAL RAILWAY. always iiulciatipiMo in liiscndeaA ours to give stmngors every facility for enjoying tlieni.selves Mliile in the locality. In the Loch Lomond chain there are three lakes. The first, or lower lak<', i.s four miles long and one and a-half miles wide. The fish in this lake are larger than those in the others, and are of two species, thv red and the white — (he latter appears to he pecu- liar to tliese lakes, and vary in weight from a (quarter to ten pounds. Tlie best fishing ground is on Lands Bar, acros.s the heiid of the lake. Another favourite spot is at the mouth of Dead Brook, about half-way up on the left side. The first and second lakes are connected by Fishing Creek, one quarter of a mile long. This lake is a mile and three-quarters long, by one quarter of a mile wide. The fish aro the same as in the first lake. The best spot is off the mouth of James Brook, about mid- way uj) on the right side. A stream about 300 yards l<»ng connects the second and third lakes. The latter is one mile long and about a fifth of a mile in width. There is no white trout in this lake, and the fish, although plentiful, are of .small size. In the neighbourhood of these lakes there are a great many smaller ones teeming with fish, the principal being Ben Lomond, Henry's, Traccey's and Mount Theobald. The last-mentioned, owing to its great distance from town, is but little disturbed, and splen- did sport can be had, as the fish are plentiful and verv i THE CITV OF ST. JOHN, N. B. 171 lively. Ahout four milts from Traccey'H Luke is tin- villfigo of St. Martins, or (^huiro, as it is usually t'uih'd. This is one of the principal shiphuildinu' plucrs in the Province. It is situated on a hay of the same name, which, from its beauty, has receivetl the title of '• liay of Naples.'' In the vicinity of marly all these lakes woodcock, i)artridf;'e, snipe andduck are ))lentiful, and j^eese ))ay an occasional visit. The drive from the city to howk's i.akk is also very pleasant. This heautiful siieet ot water is situated about four miles fiom town, across the valley. The " Hi.uhland Park Comi»any" liave seruitd 500 acres ot land around the lake, one hundred acr* s of which are set apart for a public j)ark. There art- four lakes U[K)n the proi)erty, whicl), to,n"ether with the hilly character of thv land, rentiers the task t>f JK-aiiti- fyinm' nature a simple one. The phuc is yearly becomini^ more and mt)re attractive, ami is tlestini d before long to becc>me a favourite- resort foi' phasure- scekers. p I P CIIAPTE li IX. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. A f,aii(k'-l)o<)k of the Iiiti'vcoloniul liiiilwii}' would not bo complete witlioiit somo descriptlc^n of Prince Edward Island. This charming- Ishind is nearly 200 miles long-, and is si)»arati'd from the mainland l)y the Straits of Northiimherhind, only nine miles wide between Cape Tornieiitine on the New Brunswick coast, and Cap<; Traverse on the Island. The Island is easily reached. A steamer runs daily between Summerside and Point-du-Chene each way, in connection with th(! Intercolonial Railway and the railway on the Island. The steamers have excellent accommodation for ])assengerH, and are first-class boats in all respects. The journey by water occupies between four and fiA'^c hours, and in the summer months is a delightful trip. At Summersidt! a very good hotel exists, called the " Island Park House," where excellent accommodation can bo had. It is i)laced on a beautiful island of about 200 acres, surrounded by salt water, and with excellent bathing and fishing. A steam ferry runs hourly between the Island and Summerside. -life: PHINCK EDWAHO ISLAND. 173 1 From Summrrside a line of luihviiy runs to Ti;r- nisli, at tlu' uxtronie western eu«l of tlio Islund, n distance of about seventy milfs. At Tif;nisli arc lai'fifo fishinjL:: estaldislmients, where larjic Heets (tf V(!SS(!ls are employed in niaekeiel lisliinu". No better sport can be had than to spend a day in one of these vessels, cateliing- mackerel in almost endless numbers. The fish-curing establishments are also well worth a visit,* and the scene along" the coast during the mackerel s<'ason is most enjoyable. At Alberton, another point on the line of railway, are also large fishing establishments. Here, also, and indeed all over the Island, shipbuilding is very extensively car- ried on, there never licing less than 100 vessels building in the diflerent yards, some of them being of 1,000 tons measurement. From Summerside the railway also runs to Char- lottt'town, the ca])ital of the Island, the distance being fifty miles. Charlottetown has a i)opulation of about 10,000, and has many public buildings of considerable size and architectural beauty. The Parliament Hous.' contains tlie halls for the two branches of the Legis- lature, and all the Government ottiees. The House of Assembly consists of thirty-two mem- bers, and meets daring the winter. The journey Itetween Summerside and Charlotte- town occupies about three hours, and the railway runs through a liighly cultivated and charming country. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 It'- i I.I 1.25 2.5 •- ■- li 2.2 2.0 1.8 U III 1.6 6' vg O A^ w OS. y^ / Photographic Sciences Corporation V^ ^^ \ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 174 GUIDK BOOK TO THK INTKUCOfiONlAL RAILWAY. : Tht! crops mainly consist of oats, i)otatoes, Ixickwhcat, «fcc., but littl(! wheat being grown. The farmhouses and buildings are generally substantial and comforts able, giving evidence of a thriving and improving agricultural community. Large (juantities of oats are annually exported to European markets by vessels going direct from the Island to English and French ports. There is also a considerable export of hay to the West Indies, and large quantities of oats, hay, eggs, fish and farm produce, are yearly sent to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and also to Boston. From Charlottetown a steamer runs four times a week to and from Pictou, from whence express trains run on the Intercolonial railway to Halifax, making the journey from Charlottetown in about nine hours. Tlie population of the Island is about 100,000. From Charlottetown the railway runs to Georgetown and Souris, the latter at the eastern extremity of the Island. The line passes thnmgh a pretty and gene- rally well cultivated country, and crosses numerous rivers and arms of the sea, where excellent fishing is to be obtained. Sea trout, some weighing six pounds, are to be had in abundance, and in manv of the smaller streams brook trout are vcrv )>lentiful. The fishing all over the Island is excellent and diversified, and easily accessible. At Rustico and other points at the back of the Island there are several hotels with excel- lent accommodation, and where fine sandy beaches PHINCB EDWARD ISLAND. 175 offer every imluoement to bathers who (lt'sir(! to take advantage of the rolling surf of tl e Atlantic, atul of the sea breezes which are so deliglitful and refreshing in the hot months of summer. Charlotcetown is the residence of the Lieutenant- Governor of thu Island, and in its vicinity are many fine residences scattered along the different arms of the sea. There are several good hotels in Charlotte- town, and a visit to the Island will prove most enjoy- able, with its varied scenery, excellent sea bathing, cool breezes, and lishing of all descriptions.