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Mapa, plataa, charts, ate, may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratios. Thoaa too larga to ba antiraly includad in ona axposura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand comar, laft to right and top to bottom, aa many framas aa raquirad. Tha following diagrams illustrata tha mathod: Las cartas, planchas, tabiaaux, ate, pauvant Atra fiimAa A daa taux da rMuction diffArants. Lorsqua la documant ast trop grand pour 4tra raproduit an un saul clichA, ii ast film* A partir da I'angla supAriaur gaucha. da gaucha A droita, at da haut an baa, an pranant la nombra d'imagaa nteaasaira. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 V,-*^''- :*--r_ \!m ';**■. r.*: Sil \ rw< -•i/: is^^- ,/ %*; Ik ^ «^B» ^ M^^^MH^Vl. i^^^Hfin ' ^'^IVrW' 'il^Hi '^^ ■ ■^bSi M^HH^iV* * .!?%»■■,-' fc . > vt ^ ^{rV > i-^" ■ DEDICATED BY SPECIAL AUTHORITY TO HEE MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY THE QUEEN. BRITISH POSSESSIONS IX NORTH AMERICA; OR, X UPPER AND LOWER CANADA : '■■ i: ■ THEIR lit'' i listnq, Cxbnt, Cnniiitinn, nnit l^e^nurres: BY R. MONTGOMERY MARTIN, ESQ., LATE TREASURER 10 THE QUEEN AT HONG KONG; AND MEMBER OF HER MAJESI^Y's LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL IN CHINA. PRINTED AND PVDLISIIbD UV THE LONDON PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY (LIMITED), 26, PATERNOSTER ROWj 1 and 2, BLUECOAT BUILDINGS, CHRIST'S HOSPITAL; ^0 "^ 100, ST. JOHN STREET, LONDON ; AND 55, DEY STREET, NEW YORK. /j ^ lEi^t^< /^v?. ^vV '^ iu, ,JL,> Mu.4' CrOl- *« ( ,> + TO TIIK ^ QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. Madam, In soliciting authority to lay this VVoi'k before your Mujesty, I was actuated not merely by the desire common to every fiiithful subject of testifying, however humbly, a sense of dutiful attbction to my Sovereign, but yet more from a con- viction that a History of the Colonies, their Extent, Condition, and Resources, could with propriety be dedicated only to tt Monarch most deeply interested in their welfare, and fully impressed with the viduc of these integral parts of the British Empire. I have briefly ti-aced the origin and progress^ of your Majesty's Colonial Dominion, the foundations of whieh were laid by the provident policy of your reJ||||Bncestors, Queen Elizabeth and King James the First, aided by the sagacious counsels of the great Lord Ihteon; tfie wondrous structure has been reared with persevering energy hy the wisdom of such statesmen as Clarendon, Halifax, Chathanj, Burke, Pitt, Pool, and Russell ; it has been enlarged and adorned by the genius of such jjfitriots as Raleigh, Baltimore, Penn, Cook, Clive, Hastings, Cornwallls, and Wellesley; defended by the valour of such waiTlors as Wolfe, Elliott (Heath field). Brock, Lake, Sale — Wellington, Hardinge, Gough, and Napier; and by the naval skill of Drake, Hawkins, Frobisher, Blake, Anson, Rodney, Duncan, Howe, Jervis, Collingwood, and Nelson, The acquisition and improvement of Colonies has indeed been deemed so essential an element of national power and prosperity, that the best blood, the wealth, the talent of England have been unsparingly devoted to this gi'eat end ; which, though at a costly saeriftee, has been attained ; and in every quarter of the globe the Transmarine Territories of the Crown exhibit monuments of British heroism, proofs of patrlotie deeds, and permanent illustrations of administrative ability. The rule of your Majesty now controls an Empire so vast in its extent, that the influence of England is exercised in the remotest parts of the globe ; the Sceptre of Your Power prot*3qts (beyond the limits of the United Kingdom) more than one hundred million F»l?BMBN="fivil and religious liberty being the birthright of every Citizen of a Htate, whose first principles of government will ■J f '■* n DEDICATION TO THE QUEEN. not allow her to tolerate slavery in any form, or persecution under any pre- tence — whether affecting her own children, or the stranger who comes within her gates. Blessings such as these render the sway of your Majesty a substantial benefit to every denizen of this mighty Empire ; — all share in its glory and prosperity, and have a common interest in the progress and proceedings of their fellow-subjects. The social and domestic habits, manners, and customs of the Parent State are preserved and adopted in the Colonies; the numerous temples of worship, schools, and hospitals, which distinguish England from every other nation on the face of the earth, and are the best evidence of her Christian chai-acter; the general principles of obedience to the laws, respect for autho- rity, and love of order — are equally manifest in our most distant settlements as in any county of the United Kingdom. To another striking point of resemblance I am enabled to bear my humble testimony; in the course of a personal examination of the greater pait of your Majesty's Transmarine Dominions, I have had many opportunities of witnessing the loyalty of the Colonists; — they love " the island home," that is to them the nucleus of their national feelings — cherish a strong attachment to their ^ffe- reign and to Her Illustrious Consort — and earnestly desire to participates the honours and distinctions which, emanating directly from the Throne, cause its dignity to be appreciated, even in the remotest portions of the Realm. Two members of the Royal Family have visited the Colonies: his late Majesty King William the Fourth, who ever evinced an earnest solicitude for their welfare — and your Majesty's Royal Father, whose memory is still vene- rated in British America ; for there, as in England, his just and generous mind — his catholic and philanthropic spirit — found its purest delight in promoting the welfare of his fellow-subjects, and in mitigating human suffering. I acknowledge with deep respect the gracious indulgence of your Majesty in authorizing a Dedication of my endeavours to make the condition and worth of the Colonies more generally known and more fully appreciated — and I sin- cerely hope that the intrinsic impoi-tance of the subject may not be undervalued through my inadequate efforts for its development. I have the Honour to be. Madam, Your Majesty's dutiful Subject, R. M. MARTIN. / INTRODUCTION. SECTION I, COLONIZATION OF ANCIENT AND MODERN NATIONS. Colonization,'!' that is the occupation and tillage of waste lands, is in accordance with the primary decree of Heaven, that man should be " fruitful and multiply, and replenish the earth, and subdue it." The earliest records of mankind consist chiefly of the history of migrations from one part of the globe to another, a^ population increased, or civilization created new wants. This great principle, like the other primary laws of the creation, is imiversal in its operation, and extends throughout the animal and vegetable world; what man does from reason, the brutes do from instinct : gregarious animals separate into herds, and disperse thmselves over a country as pasture diminishes; trees and roots send winged seeds or offslmts to a considerable distance to perpetuate their stock, or in search of nourishment ; fish migrate from sea to sea; and insects traverse diverse regions according to their respective exigencies. But the natural desire for abundant sustenance which impels the migration of animals, is counteracted in man by a strong attachment to his birth-place — ^by love of kindred, and by those social tics which bind together human societies. And it is wisely ordained that it should be so : man would never have advanced beyond the nomadic or wandering state, but for those local associations which attach him to his native land, and give an indescribable charm to the river, the mountain, or the glen, where the days of childhood have been spent, and where the emotions conneew d with his first ideas have Dcen enjoyed. Many urgent reasons, however, arise to counteract the oree of local attachments. The duty of providing for offspring — a desire for adventure — the love of fame or conquest — a difference in religious or political opinions — a thirst for information, — each and all tend to disseminate mankind over regions which, from their position, climate, soil, or other advantages, present the best prospects of gratifying their desires. We see these motives operating in successive ages; we trace them in the lives of Shorn, Ham, and JajAct; of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; and when individuality is merged • Colonui, in the Romnn ncccptation of the word, originally signified as much land as one person could eultivato — " Quantum Colonus unus arare poterat ;" from Colonus was derived Colonia, signifying a body of husbandmen sent out from the parent stock to cultivate other lands, and by a metonymy the place to be cultivated received the same appellation as the inhabitants who were to cultivate it, — Colonia; — hence the word Colony, which is used in the present work to designate all the maritime possessions and depen- dencies under the dominion of the British crown, not represented in the Parliament of tne Unned Kingdom, I * IV ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF THE GREEK COLONIEfl. in iiationiil history, wc mnrk tlicin influcndiig tlic dcstinips of Ej^pt, flwccc, riirtlin|ti\ mid Rome; and, in a later ajtc, those of Spain, Portiiftal, Holland, Erancc, and Enitlnnn. Egypt appears to have been colonized by a race who, after the diNperNion of ninnkind on the plains of Shinar, n.c. 2287, travelled westward, and spread tlu'niMclvcB over Upper Egypt, founded Tlicbes, oceupied the fertile banks of the Nile, and eNlublinlu'd l'lin expedition; and Syracuse refused to co-operate with the liiicedtnioninns during the i'uaic war, until Gelon, their chief magistrate, was allowed to coniniand the iu)itcd forces. In .some cases the colonists severed themselves entirely from their nutivu EXTENSION OF THE CAIITIIAGINIAN COLONIES. v land, and souglit the ])rotcotinn of anotlicr government; thua Corcyra and Potidie, colonies of Corintli, united themselves to Athens. Tn the present day such settlements would not come under the denomination of Colonics ; they were virtually independent states, maintaining an alliance with govern- ments able to afford them protection, but they added neither power nor wealth to the states from which they sprung, or with which they were connected. The Colonics of Carthage were formed on a different principle from those of Greece j they were regarded chiefly as a means of commercial advantage, and manitained as strict monopolies for the benefit of the parent state. Carthage, the most celebrated of the Phoenician Colonier,, was established by settlers from Tyre. The city of Carthage was built B.C. 878, and destroyed by the Romans b.c. UO. Throughout the greater part of the intervening period of 732 years, Carthago was engaged in extending her dominion beyond the limited spot ou the African coast wlicrc the city was first established. Three hundred African cities owned her sway, which extended for 2000 miles along the sea coast, from the Syrtis Major to the " Pillars of Hercules." Sardinia, formerly belonging to Etruria, was one of her earliest colonies, and the agricultural resources and mineral wealth of the island rendered it a very valuable possession. Malta, Majorca, and Minorca, previously under the rule of Tyre, yielded to the supremacy of Carthage. Along the coasts of Spain, on the shores of Ors^t Britain and Ireland, as far, if not farther south along the coast of Africa than Senegal and the Gambia, Carthage acquired settlements, or extended her commerce. The sole occupation of Sicily was long contested T^ath the Greeks ; its entire possession would most probably have delayed, if not averted, the ultimate cfiects of the Punic wars : but in tlie first of these wars Sicily and Sardinia were lost to Carthago. Deprived of those possessions, and consequently of the commerce and maritime position wliioh they secured, the ruin of the Carthaginian power was rapid, and its conquerors became in their turn a great Colonizing nation. The Romans, soon after the foundation of the Imperial City, planted settlements in its neighbourhood, which served as outworks for defence, and for the supply of the necessaries and luxuries of life. During the second Punic war, sixty such colonies were established. After the destruction of the Carthaginian power, the spirit of conquest and the urgent necessity of providing for large numbers of disbanded and often mutinous soldiery, whose only means of subsistence lay in the tillage of the earth ; the agrarian laws by which the senate was obliged to provide all its citizens with land, the augmentation of slaves, and the abundance of money, for which a profitable investment was found almost exclusively in the cultivation of the soil, all led to a rapid extension of the Roman Colonics. The lands of conquered countries were considered the property of the state, and they were parcelled out among the public ofTiccrs of the government, apportioned to the citizens for whom land could not be provided at home, and distributed among the soldiery. Military establishments were formed iu the most fertile or the most secure places, where the wealth of the colony could be obtained, and its possession secured against any rising of the native inhabitants. Colonies such as these extended over Gaul, Germany, Spain, and England, and throughout various parts of Asia and Africa. It is difficult to estimate the area occupied by these colonies. From the fouiulation of the city to the death i I VI THE ROMAN COLONIES— CHARACTER AND PRIVILEGES. of Augustus, Iftt colonies were established in Italy, and 190 in the provinces, Crete became a Roman colony b.c. 00. CtcHar formed plans (b.c. 45) for rebuilding Carthage and Corinth. London was built by the Romans a.d. fiO. Agricola reduced South Britain to a Roman Province, a.d. 82. Augustus planted twenty-eight colonics in Italy; fifty-seven were established in Africa, exclusive of Egypt; twenty-five in Spain ; four in Dacia, and five in Britain. It was estimated in the reign of Claudius, that Rome and its colonics contained 126,000,000 people. The colonics furnished employment for the more adventurous of the Roman citizens, and yielded large returns for invested capital. Seneca (who at his death had money to the value of .£600,000 sterling due to him from colonists in Britain) assigns the following reasons for the formation of colonies, which are equally applicable in the present day : — " Ncc omnibus cadcm causa rulinqucndi quirrendiquc pntrinm fuit. Alios cxcidia urbium giiarum, hos- tilibus armis elapsos, in alicnn, spoliiitos suis, expultcrunt : Alios domcstica scditio submovit : Alios nimia Bupcrflucntis populi, frequcntia, ad cxoncrandos vires, eminit : Alios pestilcntia, aut fVequens terrarum hiatus, out aliqua intolcninda infelicis soli rjccorunt : Qunsdam fcrtilis orir, et in riujus laudatir, fama cor- rupit : Alios alia causa excivit domibui suis." — (CunW. ad Jlelciam, c. 0.) Tlie colonists sent out by the senate were cither Roman or Latin citizens. Tfie Colonue Romanie enjoyed only to a limited extent the Jus Romanum; they were not permitted to exercise the right of suffrage, and magisterial dignities, military com- mand, &c., were denied them ; they were permitted solely the Jus Qiiiritum, namely, per- sonal liberty, honours of gentility, dignity of family, &c.; and they were compelled to furnish such contributions as the senate and emperors chose to demand. The Colonue Latin attempt le eve of Bupply of 1 rica were, contended J. J Massa- f; Maine, J6; North lese settle- ', ryland was une, 1632. , a colonized body, and grant of all ttled by au . I subdued by [n 1680-82 '■ lom a large | II. themselves added; and ^ ud from the I I jr acquired, | luda, 1609; j Bahamas, , Tat, and St. 5 ; Jamaica, gin Islands, nada, 1759; 768; Prince in Southern New South PROGRESS OF ENGLISH COLONIZATION. XI Wales, Aiiii-'Tilia, 1787; Andaman Islands, 1793; Ceylon, 1795; Trinidad, 1797; the provinces of Tanjore, Canara, Malabar, W3maad, and Coimbatoor, in Southern, and of Allahabad, Moradabad, Bareilly, RohUcund, and the Doab, in Northern India, 1799- 1800; Malta and Gozo, 1800; Perim Island, 1800; Van Diemen's Island, 1803; British Guiana, 1803; St. Lucia, 1803; Delhi, Agra, Meerut, Hurriana, and Etawah, in Northern, and Cuttack, Balasore, and Juggernaut, in Southern India ; several Mahratta districts in 1803-5; Cape of Good Hope, 1806; Mauritius and Seychelles, 1810; Ionian Islands, 1810-11; the Dcccan and Nerbudda provinces, 1818-19; Singapoor, 1819; Arracan and the Tenasserim Provinces, 1824; Malacca, 1826; Western Australia, 1829; Aden, 1838; South Australia, 1834-5; Port Phillip, 1835; New Zealand, 1839; Falkland Islands, 1841; Hong Kong, 1842-43; Scinde Province, 1844; Natal, 1844; LabuAU, 1847; Vancouver's Island, 1848; and the Punjaub Province, in 1849. But a small portion of our possessions have been, in the strict sense of the word, colonized from England. Barbadoes, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Upper Canada, Bermudas, Bahamas, Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, Virgir Islands, Australasia, and New Zealand, were planted by settlers from Britain; most of our other possessions have been acquired by conquest and cession. Ceylon, the Cape of Good Hope, and Demerara, were taken from the Dutch; Jamaica, Gibraltar, and Trinidad, from the Spaniards; Canada, St. Vincents, Grenada, Tobago, Dominica, St. Lucia, Mauritius, Malta, and the Ionian Islands, were captured from the French ; Aden from the Arabs ; Hong Kong, from the Chinese, and the Punjaub from the Sikhs. Although later in the field of colonial enterprise than the neighbouring continental nations, oiur country advanced slowly, but surely, in the acquisition of colonial or maritime dominions. The North American continent and West India Islands at first engrossed pub- lic attention, and, in accordance with the national character, useful rather than sho\vy and specious possessions have, generally speaking, been sought for, and obtained. Agriculture was rightly judged to be the basis of wealth, and the fertility of the soil and a genial climate induced bands of adventurers to migrate to the North American continent. W^ith the growth of maritime commerce and the discovery of tropical countries, arose a taste in Europe for foreign commodities; hence the formation of sugar, coffee, and spice plantations in the West Indies. But agricultural industry, whether under the temperate or torrid zone, was not the only object contemplated ; it was rightly foreseen, that the possession within the limits of our own dominion of vaiious foreign products, would furnish lucrative and permanent employment for a large amoimt of shipping ; that our colonists Would, by their industry, acquire wealth, and become consumers of home manu- factures, and that thus every item of colonial wealth would become, in the aggregate, a portion of the national riches. But in later times, other motives influenced England in the rapid extension of her colonial dominion. On several occasions, during the war with France and Spain, she was compelled, in self-defence, to deprive those nations and their allies of their colonies, as the surest means of weakening their power, and of augmenting her own. At the close of the war in 1814, England had stripped France of every colony she possessed, and had taken all that could endanger her from everv other nation mth whom she was engaged in hostilities; her fleets swept the ocean fearless I H XI 1 COLONIAL POSSESSIONS OF CONTINENTAL EUROPE. of encountering an European enemy, and her vast colonial commerce enabled her to bid defiance to Napoleon and his Berlin and Milan decrees for the expulsion of our trade from Europe. The Colonial Possessions belonging to the nations of Continental Eiu'ope are — France. — In the West Indies — Martinicpie, Gundaloupc, Marie Galante, Deseada, and Cayenne. In North America — St. Pierre and Miguelon, near Newfouudland. In Asia — Pondicherry, Mahe, and Chandcrnagore. In Africa — Algiers, Bona, Senegal. Goree, Bourbon Isle, and Isle St. Marie in Madagascar. Spain. — West Indies — Cuba and Porto Rico. Asia — Manilla and the Phillipinc Islands. Europe — Teneriffe and the Canary Islands. PoBTUOAL. — Asia — Goa, Timor, and Macao. Africa — Forts on the east coast, at Mozambique, Sofala, Delagoa, Inhabani, Quiloa, and on the Zambize ; on the west coast at the Congo river. Europe — Madeira, Porto Santo, the Azores, and the Cape Verd Islands. Holland. — West Indies — Cura9oa, Saba, St. Eustatia, Surinam, and part of St. Martin. Asia — Java, Sumatra, the Moluccas, Banca, and other possessions in the Eastern Archipelago. A factory in Japan. Africa — Some forts on the west coast. Denmark. — West Indies — St. Tliomas, Santa Ciniz, and St. John. Asia — Nieobar Islands. Africa — Forts on the Guinea Coast. America — Stations on the coast of Green- land. Sweden. — The Island of St. Bartholomew, West Indies. The foregoing brief sketch of the progress of colonization sufficiently indicates the importance attached to the possession of colonial dominion by ancient and modern nations; nor can any one examine their history without perceiving how materially their destinies have been influenced by the possession and government of colonies. SECTION II. EXTENT, POPULATION, CLASSIFICATION, ADMINISTRATION, AND IMPORTANCE Hi' THE BRITISH COLONIES AND MARITIME POSSESSIONS. The Colonies and Transmarine Possessions of England, of which it is intended to give ii history and description, arc so vast in their extent, so vancd iu their position, so diversified | in their population, forms of government, products, and capabilities, that it is difficult to convey in few words a just idea of their relative importance; if arranged according to their position in the temperate or torrid zones, a very imperfect estimate would be formed of their capabilities, as the degree of elevation al)ove the level of the sea niatcrially in- fluences the products of the soil; moreover, some territories principally situated iu the bled her in of oiir Dcseada, land. In Senegal. PhilHpine , coast, at ivcst coast !ape Verd irt of St. le Eastern — Nicobar of Grcen- ilicates the d modern riallv tlieir IE BIU'IISII to give ii J diversified difficult to ecording to l)c formed terially in- itcd in the CLASSIFICATION OF THE BRITISH COLONIES. .\iii cmperate zone, may be extended to the tropic, as Australia; some settlements reach from the torrid to the temperate regions, as Hindostan, and British America stretches to the Arctic Circle. The following is a classification of them according to their Territorial Importance, Commercial Value, and Maritime Position : — Possessions comdinino Territorial Importance, Commercial Value, and Mari- time Position. — Bengal, Madras, Bombay, Scinde, the Punjaub, Assam, Arracan, Tavoy, Tennasserim, Wellesley Province, Ceylon, Malacca, New South Wales, Port Philip, South Australia, Western Australia, Van Diemen's Island, New Zealand, Cape of Good Hope, Canada (Lower), Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Jamaica, Honduras, Trinidad, and British Guiana. Territorial Importance. — Canada (Upper), Rupert's Land, Vancouver's Island, Hudson's Bay Territories, Prince Edward Island, Natal, Northern Australia, and other parts of New Holland, the Central Provinces of India, and the Punjaub. Commercial Value. — Newfoundland, Cape Breton Island, Barbadoes, St. Vin- cents, Grenada, Tobago, Antigua, Dominica, St. Christophers, Lueia, Nevis, Montserrat, the Bahamas, Sierra Leone, the Gambia, Mauritius, Ionian Islands, Pcnang, and Singapore. Maritime Position. — Gibraltar, Malta, Gozo, Bermuda, Virgin Islands, Anguilla, Cape Coast Castle, Accra, Annamaboe, the Falkland Isles, Seychelles, St. Helena, Ascension, Hehgoland, Aden, Hong Kong, Labuan, Auckland Islands, and the Andaman, and other islands in the Eastern Seas. This classification, though perhaps the least objectionable, is still imperfect ; for it is evident that several of the West India Islands and other settlenjcnts are of political as well as commercial value, by affording secure havens for our shipping; thus, mere fortresses such as Gibraltar, are useful commercial depots, as well as political positions, and, with few exceptions, all are of some territorial importance from their rich and productive soil. Geographical Position of our ^Maritime Possessions and Dependencies: In Asia. — Bengal, Madras, Bombay, Scinde, the N.W. provinces of Hindoostan, the Punjaub, Assam, Arracan, Tavoy, Tenasserim, Wellesley Province, and Malacca; the Islands of Coylon, Penang, Singapore, Labuan, Hong Kong. Area (in round numbers) seven hundred thousand square miles; population about one hundred and twelve million. In addition to this territory actually belonging to the British cro^vn in Asia, there are tributary states extending over half a million square niUes, and coutaiiiing more than fifty million people. In North America. — Tlie Canadas (Upper and Lower), Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, and the Islands of Prince Edward, Newfoundland, and Vancouver's and Queen Chailotte; with an area of more than hall" a million square miles, and two million I iuluibitiints. We have also on the continent of N. America, the territories belonging to, and under the control of, the Hudson Bay Company, extending from the northern frontiers of Canada to the Frozen Ocean, and from the Atlantic to the Pacilic, which comprises upwards of three million square miles, and a population of about one hundred and twenty thousand. i \ n !i IM XIV AREA AND POPULATION OF THE BRITISH COLONIES. In South America. — Dcmerara, Esscquibo, and Berbice j Honduras and the Falkland Islands. Area about two hundred thousand square miles; population one hundred and fifty thousand. In the West Indies. — ^The islands of Jamaica, the Caymans, Trinidad, Tobago, Bar- badoes, St. Vincents, Grenada, Antigua, St. Lucia, Dominica, St. Christophers, Nevis, Montserrat, Anguilla, Tortola, and the Virgin Islands, Providence, and the Bahamas, and the Bermudas. Area about twenty thousand square miles; population nearly one million. In Africa. — The Cape of Good Hope and Natal, the Mauritius and Seychelle Islands, Aden (in Arabia), Sierra Leone, the Gambia, Cape Coast Castle, Accra, and Annamaboe, the Islands of St. Helena and Ascension. Area, four hundred thousand square miles ; population eight hundred thousand. In Australasia. — The great Island of Australia, or New Holland, which contains the settlements of New South Wales, Port Philip, South Australia, Western Australia, or Swan River, Northern Australia or Port Essington; Van Diemen's Island, New Zealand, Norfolk Island, and the Auckland Islands. Area more than three million square miles ; population half a million, of whom 325,000 are Europeans and their descendants. In Europe. — Gibraltar, Malta, Gozo, Corfu, Cephalonia, Zantc, Santa Maura, Ithaca, and Ccrigo, in the Mediterranean; and Heligoland in the German Ocean. Jersey, Guernsey, Aldcmey, and Sark, have been held as fiefs of the Crown since the reign of William the Conqueror. The area of these territories and dependencies is about fifteen hundred square miles ; population nearly half a million. Total area, eight million square miles; population* about one hundred and twenty million. The numerous, intelligent, and industrious population inhabiting the British trans- marine territories are as varied in their appearance, character, language, and religion, as the diversified regions in which they dwell. British India possesses a greater variety of races than the continent of Europe. Some of the subjects of the Crown in the East are bold and warlike, others timid and peaceful; some of olive hue, with Roman noses and flowing hair, others have the negro characteristics; some use a polished language, others a barbarous jargon; some are Monotheists, others sunk in the grossest idolatry; some generous and confiding, others treacherous and distrustful. Even in the island of Ceylon there are three races — the Coast Cingalese, the Kandians, and the aborigines or Vedhas. In some of our Eastern possessions Malays predominate; in others, as at Singapoor and Hong Kong, Chinese constitute the mass of the population. A fine race, termed the Parsees, or Guebers, settled in Bombay from Persia, and many Armenians reside in Cal- cutta. Jews dwell in several of our Indian settlements. In the W. Indies there are nearly a million negroes of African descent, and in Guiana and Honduras several aboriginal tribes still remain. There are also in our western colonies many Mulattoes, the offspring of the white and dark-coloured races. The purely white race are few in number, and descended from the English, French, Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese in the West Indies. In British N. America there are about two million white inhabitants, of whom six • III this and other places round numbers are used as best suited to a general summary of facts ; — the ' ,atest official figures will be given in the body of the work. he Falkland ' undred and j 'obago, Bar- i jhers, Nevis, [le Bahamas, \ I nearly one nd Seychelle 1 , Accra, and red thousand b contains the Australia, or j New Zealand, : square miles; dants, Maura, Ithaca, cean. Jersey, ice the reign of is about fifteen it million square ; British trans- and religion, as I ■eater variety of ; in the East are ,oman noses and nguage, others a idolatry; some island of Ceylon rines or Vedhas. Singapoor and race, termed the IS reside in Cal- , there are nearly leveral aboriginal ioes, the offspring in number, and the West Indies, mts, of whom six .mmaryof facts i— the' VARIETY OF TIIK HIUTISH COLONIES. XV hundred thousand are of Frentih y the Hecretiiry of State for the Colonies. The Colonies of England were formerly under the management of n lionrd, to whose care was confided the trade and plantations of the kingdom. On the iibolition of the I'lantation Board, and the office of third Secretary of State, on the econoinicni ttiotion of Mr. Burke, after the loss of our American possessions, the remaining coloni(*ii were trnns- fcrred to the care of the Secretary of State for the Home Department, On the breaking out of the revolutionary war at the close of the last century, a SecretaryNhip of Htato for War was created, and to this department the control of tlio coionieN wiw eoiifidcd in 1801. Since then our colonies have been largely augmentcid, and it \uin he«'omo a question, whether the Home Administrative Department for their manageirient in I'lngland does not require enlargement and modifieation. In 1837 the writer of this work petitioned the House of Commnui on tlio nubjcct, pointing out the difficulty of exercising a wise and satisfactory rule ov(!r nutneruiis and distant transmarine territories, through the medium of a single eliu f, who wiw changed with every party majority in the House of Commons, — urging, that within tlirrc years there were five different Secretaries and five Under-Secretaries of State for the colonies, whose brief duration of office rendered it next to impossible for them, however grout their talents or energies, to enter fully into the various and complicated (jiionticnm connected with our colonies ; and suggesting, therefore, that it might be advisaltle to constitute a Colonial Board or Council to assist the Secretary of State, — such Board to be composed chiefly of governors, and other servants of the crown. An effective moonurtt of thlN nature, which may be adopted without any additional expense to tlie HritiMli Kxehe(|iier, might avert the necessity of yielding to extreme and unconstitutional proponitionN, A Colonial Board, such as that of the Treasury, Admiralty, &e., composed of menibi^rn ponNcnncd of local knowledge, as well as general ability, if pci'manent, would mitigate, if not nltogcthcr remove the evils now unavoidably resulting from tiie frequent change of the Secre- tary of State, whose labours arc exceedingly ai'duous and responsible, This is not the place to enter into any examination of posniblo tttlrenehnirnts in Colonial Expenditure, civil or military. The whole sums voted by I'urliuincnt for the civii expenditure of the colonics in 18)9, derived from the revenues of Qreiit Uritiiin, were, in round numbers, — Bahamas, £300; Bermuda, .£1,000; Prince Edward Uland, £2,{){}0; Western coast of Africa, £13,000 ; Western Australia, £7,400 ; Port Ennington, or Northern Australia (about to be abandoned), £1,700; New Zealand, £20,000; Heligoland, £1000, \ ALUABLE PRODUCTIONS OF THE COLONIES. XIX iiin, were, in Falkland Ishiuds, £5,700; Hong Kon}?, .€2r),000; T.abuan, jE10,0(K); Rovfrnors and others in the West Indies, £18,000; St. Helena, and retired servants of E.-ist India Com- pany, £17,000. Total £125,000. Clergy in N. America, £11,500; Indian dcp-artment Canada, £1 1,000; Justices or Stipendiary Magistrates in the West Indies, Mauritius, &c., £H,000; Militia and Volunteers in Canada, £16,000; Emigration department, £13,000 Colonial Office, £37,000. Total £133,000.— Thus it will be seen that the total cinl charges of the whole of our colonies defrayed out of the Home Exchequer, directly or indirectly, permanently or temporarily, is about a quarter of a million sterling. The people of British India provide the whole of the civil and military charges of Hindoostan, defray annually the expenses of twenty to thirty thousand of the Queen's troops; the cost of the Court of Directors of the East India Company in Leadenhall-strcct, and of the India Board in Westminster. The convict expenditure in Australia and Ber- muda is about £225,000 a-year, but this outlay results from vice and crime in the United Kingdom, and is not chargeable to our colonies. The total military cost for the pay and commissariat of the Queen's troops in all our colonies was, for the year 18 17 : pay, £1,503,059, commissariat, £670,142 = £2,174,059. Of this sum £603,718 was for the Cape of Good Hope during the Kaffre war. In some of the colonies there arc local corps, as in the West Indies, Ceylon, and Malta. There arc militia corps in several of our settlements; those of our N. American Colonies comprise 339,139 men. It is deserving of consideration, with regard to our military expenditure in the colonies, that England is obliged to maintain a standing army; which, considering the extent of the standing armies of all European nations, it is a grave question, whether it would be prudent in us materially to reduce. But, as the constitutional jealousy of a free country objects to the presence of a soldiery which might be made the instruments for wielding despotic power, it is well that those troops should be scattered in different colonies, inured to privation, seasoned in various climates, and ready on any emergency for effective service. A similar rcmai'k applies to the Royal Navy, which our insular position and wide extended commerce requires to be maintained in considerable force. The possession cf strongholds and havens in every part of the globe enables us to dispense with the large amount of naval strength that would otherwise be requisite; and our seamen ai-c rendered perfect, and retained in a high state of discipline by being stationed for three or four years on the shores of the distant colonies, in various climates, and amidst many dangers, yet always among their own countrymen, and losing nothing therefore of their nationality. The shipping registered as sailing-vessels, in the British Colonies in N. America, Australia, Africa, and the West Indies, amounts to half a million tons, and the steam- vessels to sixteen thousand tons. The British shipping cleared out of the ports of the United Kingdom for the British possessions alone, in 1847, amounted to more than two million tons. Steam eommimication has now brought the most distant parts of the empire into close, frequent, and regular intercourse. Mails and passengers arrive in ten days from our North American Colonies, in twenty from the West Indies, in thirty days from the East Indies, in fifty from China; and, according to a new line, they will arrive in sLxty davs from Australia. This diminution of time or distance between the parent state and XX COmXIATi CONSI'MITIOX OF IIOMR MANrPArTrill'S. Iicr poNxcHsions will proiitly triid to (•(iiisolidiito tlic pinpiro. Lord Hroiijflmm, in his a')le work on " Colonial I'olii-y," lias well (IcHoriticd the hciii'liciid oUVct!* of frrf|nr'iit intiT^ imtional ronnnunioiition iti tlu; t'Dllowiiif:; words; — " Tlu? only conHtnnt, ri|:ular, avA extensive interrourso, arising from the eireidation of inhabitants, \» that whieii is enrried on between the different provinces of the snmo einiiire, either eontig^iionn or remote — between the (!onntry and the towns — the provinees, or proviiu'ial towns, luiil the enpitnl — the districts of indnstry and self-denial, and the seats of opidenee and pleasure — the mother country and her colonies. This intercourse and eireidation tends, more than any other thin}<, to preserve the connexion of the different component parts of k gieat and ucjittcred empire, and to cement the whole mass." The colonies yield us n cvrlain supply of necessaries and luxuries which no foreign win or hostile tarills can lessen. Of 7,()(K),()(M) cwt. of sufjar imported, our colonies furnish 6,.'){)0,(X)0. They send us also 3."),(HK),(KM) lbs. of coHcc, l,(MK),()(K) lbs. of cocoa, 7,(K)(),(KV,'. gallons of nun, 1,()()(),()(M) lbs. of cinnamon, (i,()()0,()(K) lbs. of [lepjjer, a,0(K),(XH) ^ .Ions .f vegetable oils, 8,(KK),()(M) lbs. Indi^'o, in,(KK),(KH) lbs. of wool (sheep), 10(),()00,000 lU ol cotton wool, 1,(){)(),(H)() lbs. of silk, 1,()(M),(KM) cwt. of rice, 1,(K)(),()(K) load.^ ..f timber; also corn, provisions, llax, hemp, hides, skins, saltpetre, {j;ums, (lruii;s, dye>i, metals, &c., all capable of indefinite increase. In fish alone Newfoundland has eonliibutcd to the empire to the >alue of about .t';200,(X)(),(M)(), a richer we.Jth than the South Amcriean mines yielded to Spain. The exports of manufactured articles from the United Kingdom to the colonics nearly equals our whole exports of similar articles to every part of the globe. Mr. Disraeli stated in Pavliamcnt, on July 2, 1819, that " in the article oi calicoes alone there has been an exjiort to the British Cc'on is, from 18131 to 181(5, of 3i;},0{)0,()00 yards more than to all the lest of the world;" and it must be remembered, that a colonial trade is even more valuable than a honic trade, because not only arc the two profits on buying and 8?llin(r obtained by tlie citizens of the same empire, but a large and valuable amount of shipping is en\ploycd British India and Ceylon consume annually British and Ii'ish produce and manufac- tures of the value of .£;"ei„tn r.-'uvwy; but in our colonies goods are consigned to corresponding firms; \» -i t NAPOLEOX ON "SHIPS, COLONIES, AND COMMERCE." IXI in a^)le intor I •r, M'A \ mrnvd , nioU" — 1 Hiitiil — re— till lan any cut aiul ;i({ii will fiiniisli ,(H)(),0<«. I ; .lonn it K) lU '>. ' timber; tills, &.C., d to the \nierican I colonics )be. Mr. lone there irds more 1 trade ia )n buying Ic nraount mnnufac- ! t Indies, lore than do, about year, and the value that the th forcii.'ii ps. When ash ire and 1 the cost I The extent : iltli. It is sent to a j w' firms; 1 «i nr, there are Ihinliuli coiirti" <'f law thore t'nr the rcwly recovery of debts. Moreover IIm' Mi'tropolitau-rolonial IJank i m ihliihed in L*«i(i<>n, mnre 1831, such ns the " Au«»f»- lian," " llriti^i North Aii'-riean," "( ' mial W. I.," "Oriental," " Ceylou," ' loiiiiMw" &c., render the rcmittunei of money bctv.eeii England and her colonie* a.s ewy ami secure n« l)et\veen London and T,iv('r[)()()l, The incri isiiiif Anv of our Colonies is thus 1 iliown by T. V. liUiot, Esii., Under-Si retary of State for the Colciiins : — *.,., r,.pul...l„n. ln„u,rK Export.. ^""^'hlT'^ '''''';;rVT'^ I Old Americnn Colonies (in 1773). .2,;illVMK) £I,()()(),(M)0 £l,NOirO()0 i'O « 8 . . ilO 15 6 j Amtralbn CoKmion (in 181,1) . . 283,87;! £'.',070,000 £'.>,! >!!),000 £7 , 10 . . £7 1 » 3 The duties levied iu foreign countries on Hritish produce and inaimfaotures, vary fnim ten to ///Vy per cent.; but in New South Wales, South yVustrulia, Van Dienien's Land, New Zealand, Ceylon, Alauritius, Cape ofOood Hope, Sierra Leone, &e., British manuf'iw- tures of woollen, cotton, and silk are received as free of all duties as if transmitted from one part of the United Kiufjdom to another. In our North American Colonies, the dnt< on British manufactures is to 7, in the West Indies ;J to !■, and in British India but 3 per cent. The consumption of British produce and manufactures iu o\ur colonial posses- sions, ranges from two to ten pounds sterling per head annually; iu the United States of America, our best foreign customers, the average is under ten si 'lings a head annually. It has been said that colonics must become useless as comnit admit British anil Colonial produce and manufactures on the same terms as England ;• Imits their products into the United Kingdom and its dependencies; — that since the ado| tion of our tariff of free imports in 181(>-7, no nation has entered into Tcciprocol arrai <;ements, — in some instances foreign tariffs have been increased, and that but for the revolutionary state of Continental Eiu-ope during 1818 and 1819, by which the manufactim and commerce of the revolutionary countries have been suspended or deranged, it may !)■ doubted whether the newly-adopted system could have been maintained. An European var, the blockade of important rivers, such as the Elbe or Scheldt, the occupation of the territory of a com- mercial ally, as that of Mexico by the United States, all tend to the d ninution of our precarious foreign trade; but a colonial traffic is always within our own control, both for the consumption of British manufactures and for the supply of fo'd and of raw product'^; and the time is probably not far distant when England and her n iritimc depen- dencies will be included iu one commercial league, with as perfect frccdi n of trade cts if no ocean rolled between them. The imperious exi)ression of Napoleon when seeking the dcstnictioi of England, and unable to accomplish it by the means in his possession, was — " I mii.-t have ships, colouies, and commerce!" The sagacious Talleyrand also, when urging Fran^-c to acquire ai\d maintain colonics as the best mode of sustaining a fleet which might "reach the vitals of Kugland," declared, that colonics were the sheet anchor of Britain— the support of her na^'T — the fortress of her poAver: "Render these useles.t," said Talltvrand, "or deiH-'we her of them, and you bi'eak down, her last loall — you fill up her ''ist moat," " Wliatevcr," said Talleyrand, " gives colonies to France, supplies her ^vith ships and 1, 1 J|F|J I«I x\n LORD BACON ON THE ADVANTAGES OP PLANTATIONS. sailors, maiiufactures, and hushandmcn. Victories by land can only give her mutinons subjects, who, instead of augmenting the national form by their riches or numbers, eon- tribute only to disperse or enfeeble that force ; but the growth of colonies supplies her mth zealous citizens, and the increase of real wealth and effective numbers is the certain consequence." Napoleon, in one of his prophetic moments at St. Helena, truly remarked, " Eng- land should look wholly to commerce and to naval affairs ; she never can be a continental power, and in the attempt must be ruined : let her maintain the empire of the seas, and she may send bor ambassadors to the courts of Europe, and demand what she pleases." There are other forcible reasons which enhance the value of the Colonies ; especially the existing density in England of four hundred mouths on each square mile of arable surface, and a population still further increasing in the United Kingdom at the rate of nearly a mouth every minute, or upwards of one thousand a day beyond the deaths, which makes emigration a matter of state policy as well as individual necessity, if wo would avert the evils of a social or servile war, which is inevitably caused by an excess of inhabitants in any country. If England had no foreign possessions or waste lands, the extrusion of the excessive popidation might be the sole object, even if the sui-jilus went to enrich and strengthen a j rival state; but when there are millions of acres ready for the plough in different parts of 1 the empire, it seems suicidal to transfer, or suffer to be transferred, to another nation, the i blood and bone of our own. Of the two million emigrants who have quitted the United j Kingdom within the last twenty-four years, four-fifths have strengthened the power and I added to the Accalth of the United States of America. Wlicn emigration is left to itself, men of small capital, the bold and the energetic, are the first to quit their native home ; i society thus becomes weakened, and less able to bear with accumulating difficulties; the pressure on the labour market, which alone required relief, is increased by the departure of the employers of labour ; capital, unable to find secure and prolittable investment at home, seeks its interest in foreign lands ; the mysterious link which unites national with individual weal is destroyed ; a democratic spirit looks to political changes for social amelioration; and the whole frame-work of society becomes uidiinged. A state paper addressed by Lord Bacon to James T. in IGOC, contains reasons for emigration, and for the planting of new settlements, which well deserve consideration in the present day. "An effect of peace in fruitful kingdoms where the stock of people receiWng no consump- tion nor diminution by war doth continually multiply and incre;u-!e, must, in the end, be a surcharge or overflow of peojjle more than the territories can well maintain, which many times insinuating a general necessity and want of means into all estates, doth turn external peace into internal troubles and seditions. Now what an exeellent diversion of this inconvenience is ministered to your Majesty in this plantation of Ireland (colonies), wherein so many families may rec-ive sustcntation and fortune, and the discharge of them out of England and Scotland may prevent many seeds of future perturbation ; so that it is as if a man were troubled for the avoidance of water from the places wherry he had built his house, and afterwards should advise with himself to cast those floods, pools, or streams for jjleasure, provision, or use. So shall your Majesty in this work have a double commodity in the avoidance of people here, and in making use of them there." \\\ r mutinous libers, con- upplies her the certain ccd, "Eng- contincntal j le seas, niul pleases." i ; cspcciallv le of arable t the rate of the deaths, ;essity, if wo an excess of the excessive strengthen a crcnt parts of cr nation, the cd the United | he power and j s left to itself, { native home; ifficultics; the the departure investment at J national with iges fur social A state paper j •ation, and for c present day. ig no eonsump- in the end, be nuiutuin, which iitcs, doth turn j ut diversion of; land (colonics), 10 discharge of iertuvl)ati()U ; so )laccs whcr'i he sc floods, pools, lis wui'k have a them there." WORDSWORTH ON EMIGRATION. XXUl Our Colonics offer a noble field for British industry. They could sustain with case i an addition of one hundred million to their present population. In the Canadaa there arc not*iir individuals to each square mile of area, in Australasia not three, in Southern Africa not tioo. Wordsworth's beautiful lines are peeidiarly appropriate at the present time : — " As the element of air affords An easy ])assage to the industrious bees, Fraught with their burdens ; and a way as smooth For those ordained to take their sounding flight From the thronged hive, and settle where they list — In fresh abodes their labour to renew : So the wide waters open to the powir, 'I'he will, the interests, and aiijiointed needs Of Uiitain, do invite her to Ci» t off Her swarms; and, in sufcession, send them forth, liouiid to establish new communities On every shore whose aspect favours hope, Or bold adventure; promising to skill And perseverance their deserved reward. Change, wide and deep, and silently pcrforiiied, This land shall witness; and, as days roll on, Ivirth's universal frame shall feel the effect, I'.veii to the smallest habitable rock Hcaten by lonely billows, hear the songs Of harmonized society, and bloom With civil arts that send their fragrance forth, A grateful tribute to all-ruling Heaven. — Hook IX. Exciiisihiis. Erom seven to eight million sterling are now annually expended in the United Kingdom in the support of two million paupers; if a portion of that sum were appro- p.riated towards the conveyance of a part of the able-bodied poor to the less populated parts of the empire, a grievous Imrthen, which is now weighing down the energies of the country, woidd be converted into a source of wealth and strength to tlie nation ; tin- profitable consumers woidd become producers of food and other exchangeable articles, demanding in return Britisli manufactures, and the waste hinds of the Crown would i become soiu'ccs of national and individual prosperity. Two liuudrcd million sterling | have been levied by law and expended for the relief of the poor in England and Wales, \ l)i;tween the years 1815 and 1819. The sum which it costs to maintain a pauper in Hiigland would convoy him to another part of the I'^mpirc, where he might in the samo space of time be a useful consumer instead of a waster of cajiital. Every tree felled, every acre cultivated, in our Colonies, furnishes additional employ- nuMit for the looms, shipping, and commerce of Engbind; and o'lr rich possessions ill the I'jast and West Indies are capable of furnishing an inexhaustible supply of tropiciil and other products, so much in demand thrjughout Europe and America. By judiciously directing the stream of cmigratioti where it may fertilize our own wa.ste lands, we not only provide for tlie immediate exigeneies of a superabundant population, but we preserve to oiu'sclves the main clement of national strength, and thus render it conducive to the permanent welfare of the Empire. 1 XXIV ENGLAND THE "NUKSING MOTHER" OF NATIONS. China, Japan, Corea, Cochin Cliina, and Siam — containing nearly one-half the popu- lation of the globe, are scarcely yet known to us ; and our possessions in the Pacific and Indian Oceans may be the means of opening the door for extensive intercourse with those vast regions. Again, the Colonies afford a mde sphere of action for enterprising or restless spirits, who, with good education but limited means, arc desirous of improving their condition. How many young men of good family, and of industrious habits, have found honourable and lucrative employment in the East and West Indies, North America, Australia, &c. Tlie East Indian and Colonial Civil Services contain many able and distinguished servants of the crown, whose minds, expanded by their position, fit them for the government of an empire ; and the Anglo-Indian army of two hundred thousand men is commanded by military oflBcers whose science, skill, and prowess is unsurpassed by that of any other army in the world. There are few counties in the United Kingdom in whose soil wealth acquired in the colonies has not been invested. British India alone, in payment of military, civil, and other charges, pensions, &c., has remitted to England in bullion and produce at least three millions sterling per annum for the last fifty years, making the enormous sum of j£l 50,000,000. Sir Charles Forbes, whose name is revered at home, and almost wor- shipped in India by the aflectionate and grateful people of that vast country, as the just, generous, and unswerving advocate of their interests, declared in Parliament, when deploring the lamentable inattention too generally evinced to their welfare, and the absence of a policy conciliatory to their feelings, that "the wealth which Enyland has ■Mained from the natives of India ivouhl, at compound interest, pay off the National Debt !" The balance of trade, the private fortunes made abroad, and the savings of civU and military men, are, generally speaking, spent " at home." By means of her colonies England is enabled to assume a high national position; and should, luifortunately, a general European war arise, she is independent of every foreign country for the supply of the necessaries or luxuries of life, or for the raw mate- rials required for her manufactures. In estimating the political value of oiu' colonies, it must not be forgotten that their possession gives an csnlai-ged tone even to the minds of those who have never quitted the shores of Britain. Mere islanders, whose views and thoughts are limited to the narrow territory in which they dwell, acquire contracted ideas, unsuited to the pohcy of a gi-eat nation ; but England exists in each quarter of the globe — her people become familiarized with the distant regions of the earth, and a national spirit is fostered, eminently conducive to the creation and preservation of a vast empire. Throughout the greater part of the gloljc a stupendous moral, as well as political, revolution is working for some great end. England is not only the heart of a mighty empire, whose branches and roots extend to the uttermost parts of the eai-th, she is also the " nursing mother " of nations yet in their infancy, and on her righteous fulfilment of this responsible duty, depends alike their future welfare and her om'u. If true to her tnist, she may, under Divine Providence, be the instrument of establishing peace — extending civilization — and disseminating the inestimable blessings of Christianity throughout the world. R. M. MARTIN. :,.j y w Wm the popu- acific and nth those :ss spirits, condition. :onourahle tralia, &c. d servants (lent of an landed by any other ■ed in the tary, eivil, ce at least lus sum of Iniost wor- as the just, lent, when ■e, and the hif/land has mal Debt !" )f 01%^! and ttl position; ut of every ! raw matc- V 4* • a that their 3vcr quitted o the narrow ^ of a great familiarized ly conducive as political, of a mighty h, she is also us fulfilment If true to lishing peace Christianity MARTIN. ^ 4 . ■A r'r.,N( iNi AH') i'i;hi,i:mi,n< i ■■tA, ±^:^M' v4b m mm)^MMmrm.m-Mi^m ' , ? /I] » a *SI. M %ij B r- - ^^ ••> S- _ J •- J > - x^^«* < ^i. ^^ '^S^ti-'^'- ~ reoM THE oRicraAi. or vis somebin thf, cou.ErTioN or TlIK ItlCIlT llONi"! Tllh: KAUI. OF VI.Kl'IjVM 71^-' Tin-: i.oKDON- PBJrrrrNn ANn puBLiSFiNO comfa^jy iii r^f Kl:u\l rilK .il;li IVM. i\ HVfl.l.l 11 ;\ IIIK . •■i.l.l-.. 'I 11. \ Tiir. li' iiov'"' I'lii-: i;\i;i,()i' i-xiimaiont Hi %-•■ ^ *'r V» J ■ "f ■«.v. ■•« ■t' '* **!.#. » «§■• m ». %• *. # '.. ' If. % •*?v,- T 11 K TUB J.OKDON I'RINIINO ANU I'UUI.ISIIINO »r«v» mv. i^ *" wo 1(10 mo HO iai> luo nu an ««• lo o ^ - MDON PlMN'llNr. ANi> I'imi ISHtN'^ i"f)M('ANY ■•■li X- I'.usy.wvd It,- J. UHjiki,-' ■-»'»*-*ji»?. f .4 L CTn/^ ■4 ■:':■■ I^IIOL*^I> 'V .:' .t .if •* ••;« ife;^ '■4 ^ 4 «5N Li< if - &-.>!< (^>:^ f :r"s^^v:;d::^< "" " ■ M.^.w ^'^^'Kx:f:X3i^wLm:M:x:MM H'iiv and hkcla . "o Tifi IIW) — no THE I.ONIION I'KlNlli;;*) l'Uij:,lS HI.NO "'"'- ■ " ' '1 1 •• ' ii r '-' i \ &tf ii^it^jriDt^ci MMiinw^ !^ /.g^^/*j."";|s^4jr^X^ ■i-- i; iim.iuHii. UK lllllnOM I'l-MMl \. \ / ■ssr; i! m lii ! i'JU J»j^i>ll£lSAt:AJt,.Ss s&caSX^'aHlS^aaJ j fM i i 1 1 1 ! \{ THE BRITISH COLONIES. BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. BOOK I.— EASTERN AND WESTERN CANADA. CIIAI'TJSU I.=»^tn8T0RY. The British tloniinions in Nortli Amorieft comprise an area of 4,000,000 sqiiiiro n»tl«<"( i their extreme len'jth between eaut ftnd west, fi'om the Atlantic to the I'lw'ido, in 3,000 miles; and from north to soutli, 8,(KM) miles. The boundaries of this vast i'CkIoij are, on the north the Arctic Ocean and Hm» adjacent seas and islands many of t'l'lll ynt unexplored ; on the i h-weitt, llmAm America ; on the west ..e Pacillc Oceim ( on the south, the territories of the UnltJul States ; and on the east, the Atlantic Ot'PRn. The southern boundary is defined (upd map) by an irregular line drawn ft'om tliP ext'eme end of Vancouver's Island, eittPluU ing along the parallel of 49° N. to tho hpitd of Lake Superior, thence througii the cpiitrn of that lake and the centres of Lukes Tin. ron, St. Clair, Erie, the Falls of Nifigarft, and Lake Ontario, to St. llegia on t\m St. Lawrence, 60 miles S. W. of MoutrPBl, thence along the parallel of 45° N, to some Highlands, which divide the waters that flow into the Atlantic from those that flow into the St. Lawrence; from thence to tho »iOure<3 of St. Croix, and to the mouth of that river in Passamaquoddy Bay in the Gulf of Fiindy. The whole countiT lies between the parftllels of 41° 47' and 78° or 80° N., and the me- ridians 52° and 141° W. The British territory is divided into the provinces or districts known as the Cnnndnfi Eastern and Western, or Lower and UppeP} New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, i\w Coast of Labrador, the Hudson's Buy Tue vol.. I. a ritorlen, Vancouver's Island, Queen Char- lotte's islaud, and other islands and disti-icts WPNt of the llocky Mountains, each of which will bo separately described. Tlio statements of the Norwegians, or Diincis, having visited the coast of America in tho tenth and eleventh centuries, and rolotiiiicd " Vinland," or New England, ftt'O too vngue and unsatisfactory, to deprive ( 'oltunbus of the honour of having been the fli'st discoverer of the western hemisphere on tho 11th of October, 1493. But the explofittions of this truly great man were restricted to the West India Islands and a |iortiou of tho middle and southern part of the ndjncent continent, which received its tlHttiC from Amerigo Vespucci, who, in 1499, visited some parts of the coast. The dis- eovel'i't' of the northern portion of the con- tilii'llt of America was Giovani Gaboto, tfeiiernlly called John Cabot, a Venetian, )» the service of Henry VII. of England, wh(», with his tliree sons, sailed from Bristol i»t May 1497, having under his command two enravels and five ships laden with goods for triiflle, supplied by the merchants of trfJHdoii. Cabot sailed to the westward in the exjiecttttlon of reaching " Cathay," or China; but to his surprise, on the 24th of June, 111)7. tiinde the coast of America, discovered Newfoundland, sailed as far N. as 67° 30', in hope of finding a passage to the Pacific; thett steered to the southward, and entered the (lillf (if St. Lawreuee hi search of a sup- posed north-west passage. After taking posBUSSioU of the country in the name of 2 ENGLISH AND FRENCH DISCOVERIES IN AMERICA. England, Cabot returned in August, 1497, with ten natives (whom he brought from Newfoundland or Prince Edward Island), and was knighted by the king. Sir John Cabot made three subsequent voyages, but no settlement then took place on this part of the North American continent ; the tide of European adventure being directed to Mexico and Peru by the Spaniards. In 1500 Caspar Cortereal, a Portuguese captain, visited the north coast of America, followed the track of Sir John Cabot, and kidnapped several of the Indians or natives, whom he sold as slaves. In 1503 Hugh Elliot and Thomas Ashurst, English merchants, were authorized by Ilcury VII. to estab- lish Colonies in the countries discovered by Cabot; but they do not appear to have availed themselves of this permission. In If) 18 Baron dc Lory, a Frenchman, landed cattle at Isle du Sublo, and ineffectually attempted to form a settlement at Canseau. In 1525 Giovanni Verrazano, a Florentine, and Gomez, a Spaniard, in an expedition fitted out by Francis the Fii-st, coasted from New- foundland to Florida, Landed in Nova Scotia, proceeded as far as 50° N., and, regardless of the prior claim of England, took formal possession of the country for his royal mas- ter, under the title of ' La NouveUe France." Verrazano, like Cabot, returned without gold or silver, was coldly received, and died in obscurity. Henry VIII. in 1527 fitted out an expedition to discover a north-west pas- sage to the East Indies ; one of the ships was lost, and no settlement was made. The valuable fisheries on the banks of Newfoundland had early attracted the at- tention of ropean nations, and in 1517 there were about fifty vessels under the English, French, Spanish, and Portuguese (lag engaged in the fisheries. In 1534 Jacques Cartier, a navigator who had been fishing on the banks of Newfoundland, re- ceived a commission from Francis the First ; sailed with two vessels of 60 tons each .'rom St. Maloes, April 20; anived at New- foundland, May 10; remained there ten days, then sailed to the northward; subsequently took a southerly coiirse, passed through the Straits of Bellisle, traversed the Gulf of St. Lawrence; jn the 24th of July erected a cross surmounted by a fleur -de-lya, and on the 25th of July sailed for France, taking with him two Indians. Cartier was well received, and sent by his Hovcreigu in the ensuing year to the St. Lawrence, fso culkd on wcount of its dis- covery on the day of the festival of that saint) with three larger vessels, and accom- panied by a number of young gentlemen as adventurers. The explorera entered the river St. Ijawrenee in August, and anchon-d off Quebec, then called Stadaconna, and the abode of an Indian chief, named Donna- conna. Cartier here quitted his ships and proceeded up the river in boats. On the 3rd of October, he reached an island, which ho named Mont Royal (now Montreal), re- turned to his ships, where he wintered, called the coast St. Croix, and in 1530 seized Donnaconna, and two other chiefs, and conveyed them with eight natives to France, where they all died. The precious metals not having been discovered, the French sovereign made no further cfi'orts to occupy the country until 1541, when an expedition, at the renewed entreaties of Cartier, was sent out to colonize La Nouvellc France, or Canada, so called from the Iroquois word Kanata, signifying a collection of huts, which the early discoverers mistook for the native name of the country. Francis I. gave the command of the expedition to Fran9ois dc Ic Roque, Siegneur de Robcrval, who was appointed the viceroy of his sovereign in Canada, Hochelaga (Jlontreal), &c. In July, 1542, the viceroy arrived in Canada, built a fort about four leagues above the Isle of Orleans, but the destructive ellects of scurvy which appears to have afflicted all the early colonists, and the deadly hostility of the In- dians, in consequence of the kidnapping of Donnaconna and other Indian chiefs in 1536, prc\ented any permanent settlement. Roberval was recalled by Francis I. to as- sist in the war against Charles V., and Jacques Cartier, after an unsuccessful at- tempt to form a settlement at St. Croix, returned ruined in health and fortune to France, where he soon died. After the death of Francis I., Robcrval, accompanied by his brother Achille and a numerous train of enterprizing volunteers, embarked for Canada in 1519, but having never been heard of since, arc supposed to have perished at sea. The idea of discov- ering a north-west passage to the Pacific Ocean, still filled the minds of the people of Eui'ope; in 1575 Davis explored the Straits which bear his nam'j, and in 1576, queen Elizabeth, ever bent on taking th ; lead of every other nation, sent out Martin Fro- bisher, with three ships, on a voyage of ex- ploration. Frobisher discovered the Straits bearing his name, and finding son t mutidie !ix\ of that Eind accom- intlcmcu as ■ntcred tlie id anchored ma, and tlie icd Donna 18 ships and On the 3rd d, which ho jntreal), rc- le wintered, nd in 1530 I'v chiefs, and ns to France, cious metals the French rts to occupy in expedition, •tier, was sent ! France, or roquois word | ion of huts, listook for the ?rancis I. gave in to Franyois crval, who was t sovereign in j ),&c. In July, 1 Canada, huilt a | re the Isle of i Tects of «euvvy j ;d all the early j ility of the In- 1 kidnapping of j iian chiefs in j ;nt settlement. ! ancis I. to as- j .arlcs v., and : iisuccessful at- j at St. Croix, | and fortune kl. 1 s I., Rohcrval, i Achille and a ,, ing volunteers, \ 19, but having j arc supposed J idea of discov- to the Pacific ^f the people of ored the Straits | 1570, queen ing th.! lead of ' ut Martin Fro- a voyage of ex- I ■ercd the Straits ; ig son T mundic aUliUN ELIZABETH AND SIR H. GILBERT. 8 in or copper pyrites, wliicli ho mi-stook for pohl, he returned with a large quantity to England. In tlie cnmiing year Frobi.ther was despatched by sonic mcrcliants with three vessels to explore the coast of Labra- dor and Greenland, with a view to the dis- covery of a north-west piisspgc. 1 Ic returned, however, with only 2(X) tons of the supposed gold ore, and a man, woman, and child, of the Indian race. In 1578, the cxpcetntion of discovering extensive gold nigicnm, indu(!ed the mer- chants of Eiigluiul again to send forth Fro- bislier, with fifteen vessels. The expedition being attended with as little success as the preeediug one, eaus(!d the ruin of many adventurers, who received, as btfuro, cojiper ore, instead of gold. In 1579, (iiioen Elizabeth, desirous of ob- taining some advantage from the discoveries of Cabot, gi'anted to Sir llumplirey Gilbert, half-brother to Sir Walter Raleigh a patent for " the discovering or occupying and peopling such remote, heathen, and barba- rous countries as wcrlds for operation, were tiie country from the river Amazon to the Orinoco, the Antilles, Canada, L' Acadia, both continent and islands from tlic north of Canada to Virginia and Florida; also the coast of Africa, from Cape Vcrd to the Cape of Good Hope, " so far as the said company may be able to penetrate, whether the said countries may now appertain to France, as being or having been occupied by Frenchmen, or in so far as the snitl company shall establish itself by exterminating or conquering the natives or colonists of such European nations as arc not our allies." Louis XIV. agreed to advance one-fourth of the whole stock without interest for four years, subject to a proportion of all losses which might be incurred during that period. The West India Company was to enjoy a monopoly of the t( iritories and trade, and an exelu.sive navigation, conceded for forty years, and to receive a bounty of thirty livres on every ton of goods exported from France. The com- pany was authorized to levy war against the Indians or foreign colonies in case of insult; to build forts, raise and maintain troops, grant lands, commute seigneurial dues, and it was bound to carry out a sufficient number of priests and to build cluu'chcs and houses for their accommodation. All colonists and converts professing the Romish faith were declared to be entitled to the same rights in France and in the colonies as if they had been born and resided within the kingdom. "WW" 1 1 6 HAIUJAROUS PIIOCEEDINOS with TIIK INDIANS. The arl)itrary proceedings of tliis com- pany hoon excited general dLssatiitfaction in Canada, and on the 8th April IGCUi, a royal (ir/et of the council of state granted to the Canadians the trade in furs, suljjcet to an allowance of one-fourtii of all beaver skins, and one-tenth of all butTalo skins, aiul the total reservation to the company of the trade of Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay river. The colony was kept in continual alarm by the war waited by the Canadians ajjainst the Mohawk Indians, who were in alliaTiec with the English colonists at New York. For purposes of military defence, the colo- nists by a royal edict were directed to concentrate their settlements, and no lands were permitted to be cleared or cultivated but such as were contiguous to each other: this accounts for the peculiar military style of the French Canadian townships. The wars with the Indians were canned on with great barbarism ou both sides. In an incursion made by the marquis de Traeey into an Iroquois settlement, the Indians saved them- selves by flight; but the old men, women, and childi'eu were slaughtered and a Te Dcuin thereon celebrated ui the cathedral of Quebec. On another occasion a French army, consisting of 28 companies of regular troops and the whole militia of the colony, marched 700 miles in the midst of winter, fi'om Quebec into the !Mohawk territory for tiie purpose of utterly extirpating the Indians. As usual the Indian warriors escaped, but the sachems (old men), women, and children, were massacred. For every human scalp delivered into the war depart- ment a sum of fcjrty livres wa.s paid. The Canadians, however, not unfrcqucntly experienced the revengeful fury of the In- dians. Charlevoix in his history of La Nou- \elle France, when describing the atrocities committed by the Indians, says — " lis ouv- rirent Ic sein des femmes enceintes pour en arrachcr Ic fruit qu'elles portoient; ils miront des enfans tout vivant a la broche ct eon- traignerant les meres de Ics tourner pour les fair rotir." The colonists, frequently taken by surprise, had their houses, cattle, and crops destroyed, and thousands of the French were slain. The French, reinforced from Europe, sent a strong force in Febru- ary, 1G90, who massacred the greater part of the unresisting inhabitants of Shcneetady. According to Colden (psige 79) the Indians whom the French took prisoners at She- uectady, were cut into pieces, and boiled to make »oup for the Indian allies who accom- panied the French I The contests of the British and French colonists were carried on through their respective Indian allies, and for several years the tide of success was in favour of the French, as tlie nHtish were by nature not so well adnpti'd for conciliating the natives. The hostilities waged by the Indians were destructive to the scattered colonists: setting little value on life, they fought with despe- ration, and gave no quarter; protected by the natural fastnesses of their eountiy, they chose their own time for action, and when they had enclosed their enemies in a defile, or surprised them amidst the intricacies ol the forest, the war-whoop of the victor, and the death-shriek of ♦be vanquished, were simiUtaneously heard, and while the bodicf of the slain served for food to the savage, the scalped head of the white man was o trophy of glory, and a booty of no incon- siderable value to its possessor. In 1G83, the Mississippi, which had been previously visited by the French missionaries from Montreal (in 1673), and by fur hunters from Quebec, under the guidance of the Indians, was navigated to the sea by M. de la Salle; and all the country watered by that vast river claimed for France under the title of Louisiana, in honour of Louis XIV. The British colonists in Albany became alarmed at the success and increasing strength of the French, not oidy in Nova Scotia, where hostilities were almost inces- sant with the English at Massachiissetts, but also by their occupation of the two great rivers, the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi, and their successful prosecution of the fur trade and fisheries, then deemed the chief source of wealth in North America. The population of Canada, which in lG7i did not exceed 8,(X)0, including the converted In- dians, had rapidly increased ; and the inter- marriages of Frenchmen with the natives, enabled the goveniincut of Quebec to com- mand at all times, a large force of Indian warriors. Ar an illustration, one instance may be noted: the baron de St. Castine, formerly an oflicer of the Carrignan regiment, of prepossessing appearance and noble 8j)irit, took up his abode with the Indians, learned their language, adopted their customs, married an Indian wife, and lived with them for twenty years. The Indians m.ade the baron their chief, they looked upon him as a tutelar deity, and during his abode with them, were ready to devote their lives to his t\(l TrPiuli iii^rh their •vpral years our of the nature not the natives, idians were ista: setting with despe- rotcctcil by luntry, they \, and when J in a defile, ntricacics ol c vietor, and iiishcd, were c the bodicf , the savage, • man was o of no incon- lieh had been h missionaries by fur hunters dance of the sea by M. dc y watered by mee under the [f Louis XIV. ai)any lieeamc iid iuercasiug only in Kovu iihuost inccs- i:i(l\ussctts, but tlie two great the Mississippi, tion of the fur !med tlic chief America. The in lG7t did not converted In- nnd tlie iuter- .tli tlie natives, Quebec to com- force of Indian me instance may ; lastine, formerly 1 in regiment, of , lid noble spirit, Indians, learned j their customs, I lived with thcui j .dians made the i cd up'.p of l(i, :nd a third of 8 guns, with transports fo' the conveyance of 800 to 1000 men, in all v. it St vessels — against the French si/.cTd: the expedition cost the colonists .felj0,000. The naval force was confi-; ," ^o the charge of Sir \\ iliiam Pliipps, a n in oi considerable ability, who had raised ; Imscil by perse- vering energy to a high station. Mr. liali- burton says that he was the son of n black.smith at I'emaquid in New England; born in lO.'iO, and apprenticed to a carpenter to learn shipbuilding. On the expiration of his indentures he built a vessel, which he navigated himself; and hearing of the wreck of a Spanish ship near the Bahamas, con- taining bullion, made an nnsuecessfiil at- tempt to raise it. In 1083 Captain Phipps was scut by the English government in search of another Spanish wreck, in which ho was also unsuecessful. Five years after, the Duke of Alliemarle, then Governor of Jamaica, pi..= x'd him with the necessary apparatus, .., . sent him to renew his •tearch for this valuable \vrcck, which was reported to contain much wealth. After many fruit- less endeavours Phipps was about retiring t'^ Jamaica, when a sea-feather growing out of n rock, attracted the attention of some sailors who were crossing the reef in a small boat. A diver was sent to fetch it up, who, on descending, found several guns at the foot of the rock, and on a second descent obtained a quantity of silver. Finallj', Phipps raised from the wreck thirty-two tons of silver bullion, and a large quantity of gold, pearls, and jewels, which had been lying in the sea for more than half a cen- 8 NEW ENGLAND COLONISTS ATTACK QUEBEC. tury. Phipps was kniplitcd by James II., mncle sheriff of New England, and on his solicitation entrusted with the command of a colonial expedition against the French in Nova Scotia, 'a which he was unfortunate; and he subsequently obtained the command of the fleet fitted out by the New Eng- landers against the French iu Canada, whose proceedings we are now detailing. On the 20th of May, 165)0 (according to Halibur- ton), Sir William Phipps and lus squadron appeared before Port Royal in Nova Scotia. Manival, the French Governor, having only 80 men and very insufficient defences, sur- rendered, as did also the Governor of Ched- abueto, and the commanders of other posts iu Acadia and Newfoundland. Phipps Uke- wise captured several posts on the Saint Lawrence, and was within a few days' sail of Quebec before the alarm spread thither. Frontcnac, the Governor, hastened from Montreal with reinforcements, and strength- ened the defences, which consisted of little beyond rude intrenchmcnts of timber and mounds of earth. On the morning of the IGth of October, 1G91, Sir William reached the shores of Ciuebee, and summoned it to surrender : the summons was unhesitatingly rejected, yet the English, who had previously evinced so much activity, now appear to have been strangely remiss, for no hostile measure was taken until the 18th, when Phipps landed 1,500 men on the banks of the river St. Charles. The French, with only 300 ii-rcgulars, kci)t up a brisk firing, which caused much loss to the llritish, though at night they retreated into the town, leaving them masters of the field. The larger vessels anchored ort' Uucbec, and directed a cannonade against the upper part of the city, which they renewed the follow- ing day, but with little effect. Meantime the ships had sustained considerable dam- age, aud about noou the squadron moved up the river beyond Cape Diamond. The troops previously contiiuied to advance, and I'hipps sent on shore six pieces of ordnance, and pushed forward his men in hopes of ,'apturing the place by nutans of land bat- teries. But tiie French militia harassed ihem severely, and maintained so steady iuid destructive a fire from behind some palisades that the English commander, eon- ■lidcring further advance hopeless, re-em- l)arked his troops on the 2!iud, leaving behind their eunnon and ammunition, Phip|)s has been muc , blamed for not at- tacking tiic body of the place, wliieli, ac- cording to Coldcn, he might easily have captured. Owing to some misunderstand- ing, or want of concert, the attack which was to have been made on Montreal simul- taneously with that on Quebec, did not take place; but in the following year (1691) the Iroquois, aided by some English and native allies, advanced towards Montreal. The military command there was then held by De Calliere, an able officer who was very popular with his Indian neighbours, having even joined them in their war dances, and spared no pains to ingratiate himself with them ; in which he appears to have been so successful, that when mustering his troops | for defence, 800 Indians assembled to aid him at the Prairie de la Magdeleine. The Iroquois, nevertheless, succeeded in cap- turing several of the advanced posts and a considerable number of prisoners ; but were eventually obliged to retreat, though they long aftenvards continued to make sudden inroads upon the colony in every direction, headed by a favourite chief named the Black Cavldron; but their incursions were greatly cheeked by Frontenae's ju- dicious distribution of military posts. The treaty of Ryswick in 1697, by which peace was concluded between Britain and France, produced a temporary eessiition of hostilities in Canada; but with the renewal of war between the mother eoTintries in 1702, they recommenced, and the ICnglish, elated by the successes of Marlborough and Eugene, and alarmed by the rapidly increasing number of the French colonists, then amounting to 15,000, conceived the bold design of cm- bracing within their territory tlie whole of North America. The wars in which Louis XIV. was engaged compelled him to leave the Canadian government very much to its OM'n resources. De Calliere, who had suc- ceeded Frontcnac, died in 1703, and the Count de Vaudreuil was appointed governor in his stead. He was a man of great ability, but his policy, like that of his predecessors, was to extend, in every possible manner, the French dominion ; to cut the English off from the fur trade, and gradually to hem them in between the highlands of Nova Scotia and tlie Alleghany Mountains. The English now called upon their allies of the " Five Nations" to renew hostilities against their old enemies; but these tribes were exceedingly unwilling to move, and alleged, that when they eoneluded a treaty, they did so with nn intention to keep it ; while the Europeans seemed to enter into such engage- NEW ENGLANDERS ATTACK THE CANADIANS. isily have ndcrstan cl- ack -which real simul- id not take :ar (1691) Qglish and Montreal, then held lo was very inrs, having dances, and limself with ivs been so r his troops [bled to aid sleine. The led in eap- d posts and soners ; bv\t ;reat, though ed to make my in every ! chief named iir incursions ontenac's ju- y posts. The r which peace 1 and France, (1 of hostilities iiewal of war in 1702, they , elated by the I Eugene, and asing number amounting to design of cm- r the whole of ti which Louis I him to leave ry much to its who had suc- 1703, and the )intcd governor of great ability, is predecessors, l)le manner, the :he English off adually to hem 1 ilands of Nova ' [ountains. The cir allies of the l istilities against pse tribes were ,vc, and alleged, treaty, they did p it ; while the iito such engage- ments solely with the view of immediately I breaking them. One chief intimated his ] Ruspieion that both nations were drunk. 1 Tliey did little, therefore, of themselves, or i by their own impulse; and when called upon to join in an expedition, came slowly and reluctantly forward. At this period the abo- ; I'igines were numero\»s and po>verful. Tribes of Abcnaqua, Algonquin, Iroquois, Mississa- saqua, and Huron Indians, occupied the country from below Quebec to Lake Huron. I In l"Oi) a plan for the conquest of Canada was apiirovcd by the parliament of queen Anne, and authority and resources deemed sulHeient for its accomplishment, were sent to New York. De Vaudreuil, who had some time before made an incursion on the Eng- liali frontier, and destroyed a village named II(!\vrcuil, or Haverhill, was ou the watch, and soon learned that 2,000 English had issued from New York, and were to be joined by an ecjual number of savages : he asscni bled his troops, and would have carried the war into the enemy's countrj', bxit his allies objected, and he then turned all his atten- tiou to strcu>jthening his own frontier. The Ib'itish formed a chain of posts from New York, occupied in great force lakes George ^ and Champlain, erected forts to protect their descent upon Canada, and made every pre- ])aration for attacking Montreal; but a large l)ody of the forces whose assistance they ex- pcetwl, being required for the war on the continent of Eui'ope, and the Iroquois having, in a general council, come to the (letcrmination that the prolongation of strife between the two European nations was the l)cst security for the nuiintenanee of their independence, which would in all ])roba- hility be lost if either became dominant, suddenly deserted them ; the ICnglish, in consequence of this double disappointment, weakened also by a pestilential fever which liad broken out among them, and was said to have been caused by the Indians poison- ing the water of which they drank, were compelled to abandon the enterprise; and after destroying their forts they returned to New York. The interval of ])eaec between tlie rival colonies was, however, of very brief dnration, aiul the Fi'cneh were emiiloyed during the greater part of it in barbarous .md exterminating warfare with an extensive trihe, called the Outagamis, or Foxes, whom tliey did TU)t succeed in wholly destroying, and whose incursions, though carried on by a mere remnant, rendered their eounnuniea- , tion with their settlements ou tlie Mississippi I \(>i.. I. insecure. The British government resolved to give the New Englanders stronger sup- port, in their endeavours to expel the French from Canada and Nova Scotia; in 1710 an armament was fitted out for a combined attack on Canada by sea and land, and on the 18th September, a fleet, consisting of the Dragon, Leostaff) Fi'vcrshum, and Ciester men of-war, the Star-bomb and 3; assa- c/iiissctln, ])rovincial galleys, with i'ot rtcen transjiorts in the pay of ^Nlassaclmsset ,s, (ivc of Connecticut, two of New Hampshire, three of Rhode Island, a tenJer, and five English transports, with one regiment, of marines from England, and four regiments of pvovieials raised in New England, but commissioned by the queen, and armed at the royal exi)ense, sailed from Boston bay for Port Royal, in Nova Scotia, where it arrived on the 2kh Sc^ptember, 1710. The particulars of the siege, and eaiutnlation of the French governor, Subercase, belong to the history of Nova Scotia. Tiic English lost 15 men, besides 20 who were wrecked in a transport at the entrance of the har- bour ; 200 marines and 230 volunteers were left to gan-ison Port Royal, and on the 2Gth October the expedition returned to Boston. Meanwhile, the Count Dc Vaudreuil was busily engaged strengthening the fortifu'a- tions, constructing barracks, and training militia, amounting to 5,000 in a population of 25,(X)0. Much apprehension was felt by the Canadians notwithstanding the strength of Quebec, which was deemed so impregnable that a proposed attempt for its capture was one of the articles of impeachment against Harley, the English minister. The plans of the' Bi'itish were frustrated by an imforc- seen disaster, arising ))artly from tempestuous weather, and partly from their ignorance of the const ; in one day (22nd August) 8 transports containing 881- officers, soldiers and sailors, were wrecked at the Seven Islands, near the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and the remaining vessels returned to Bos- ton. General Nicholson, had already taken the field, at the head of the land forces, but on learning the loss of the fleet, he fell back on New York. The I'^nglish colonists, again defeated, still ])crscvered, and were making fresh preparations for renewing hostilities, when the change of ministry in ICugland, and the treaty of Utrecht ou the 13th jSlarch, 1713, relieved Canada for a time from fur- ther apprehension, for by this treaty England resigned her elnini In Canada, and France hers to Ai;'.;rui and Newfoundland, and 10 STATE OF THE FRENCH CANADIANS IN 1720. made over to England her assumed rights to the sovereignty of the Five Nations, which she having never been able to enforce, and England being in that respect equally pow- erless, was a merely nominal concession. This treaty was the commencement of a new epoch for Canada, and the unusual pe- riod of tranquillity which followed it, caused a great increase in her agriculture and com- merce. In 1720, Quebec had a population of about 7,000, and Montreal of 3,000. Nineteen vessels cleared from Quebec, laden with peltries, lumber, tar, tobacco, flour, pork, &c., and four men-of-war were built in tlie colony. From Charlevoix's description of the city, which he visited in 1720-21, part of the upper and lower towns must have been built, but the adjacent shores and islands were still covered with forests. The society generally, he describes, as gay and sociable, consisting chiefly of military men, and the lower order of noblesse, all poor, and likciv to continue so, being much better adapten for practising the most agreeable ways of spending money, than the more laborious methods of making it. They saw their English neighbours stoiidily employed in accumulating wealth, but con.solcd them- selves with the reflection that they did not know how to enjoy it. Their favourite em- ployment was the fur trade, the only one indeed at all adapted to their excitable natures and desultory habits, but the little fortunes they occasionally made thereby, were compared by Charlevoix to the hillocks of sand in the deserts of Africa, which rise and disappear almost at the same moment. Below Quebec, the banks of the St. Law- rence were laid out in tolerably cultivated seigniories. Trois Rivieres then contained only 800 inhabitants ; the city of Montreal was rapidly extending, and wa.s in a great degree protected from the incursions of hos- tile Indians by the barriers formed by the villages of Sault St. Louis, and Montgomery, which were in ibited by friendly tribes. Above Montreal there were only detached f.a- demd by finding his vigilance had failed in cuarding this important pass, lost his usual [n.id(mee, and seeing hat his opponent had gained so much by hazarding all, he, with an infatuation for which only strongly ex- cited feeling can account, resolved upon meeting the British in battle array on the plains of Abraham, without even waiting the return of 2,000 men dispatched by him as a corps of observation under De Bougainville, to Cape Rouge, nine miles above Quebec. The French saUied forth from their almost impregnable fortress without field artillery, and with a heat and precipitation which, under the circumstances, strangely con- trasted with the coolness and precision of the British. The eagle eye of Wolfe took in at a glance all the details of his position. He kncAv that for him retreat was next to impossible; yet while directing his main attention to the steady advance of liis right division, ho skilfully covered his flanks, and endeavoured to preserve their communica- tion with the shore. Both armies may lie said to have been without artillery, the French having only two guns, and the Eng- lish a light cannon, wliieh the soldiers had dragged up the heights with ropes ; the sfibre and the bayonet accordingly decided the day, and never was the nervous strength of the British arm more manifestly dis- played. The agile Scotch Highlanders pow- erfully wielded their stout claymores, and filled the place of cavalry, while the steady fire of the English fusilecrs compensated, in some degree, the absence of artillery. On the part of the French 1,500 light infantry, and some Indian riflemen, advanced first, and began a desultory fire ; but the British reserved their shot for the main body, and opened no general fire in return until their opponents were within forty yards. They then discharged a deadly volley, which Wolfe followed up by charging with the bayonet, at the head of the grenadiers of the 22nd, 40th, and 50th regiments, who had acquired the honourable title of Louisburgh grena- diers. Although wounded by a ball in the wrist, and another in the groin, and suflTcr- ing from fever and dyscnten^, he still pressed on against the French, who fought with fury heightened by the fanaticism excited in them by the priests against the English heretics. The heroism of De Montcalm was as conspicuous as that of his illustrious opponent; both headed their men — both rushed with eagerness wherever the battle raged most .'lereely, and often by their personal prowess and example eliaiu,'ed the fortune of the moment — both .acutely sen- sible of the responsibility of their respective positions, and stimulated by the enthusiasm which only those who have mixed in the heady emrent of battle can conceive — r.y£jj« 14 DEATH OF GENERAL WOLFE though rcpciitedly wounded still pressed ou at the bead of their meu, till almost, at the same moment, both of these gallnn*^^ com- manders receive;^ their death wound. A ball entered the ureast of Wf Ifi , who, faint >vith the loss of blood, ree.U'l, and leant a$;ainst the shoulder of one o' his officers, whispering, " Support me ! let ; at my brave loldiers see me drop." lie w;!'^ carried to some distance in the rear; hU eyes were waxing dim, and the life-blood ebbing faii from Lij strong and generous heart, when the cry ol " Twey run ! they r;. \ !" rent the air, and seemed to stuy for a moment his fleetuig spirit. " Who run ?" lu; eagerly inquired. " Tht French," ^uis the reply. Then, said the pfueral, "Pray, do « ,e of ijoii run to colonel Horiun, and tell lum to march ll'jjl,;-' rryiment with all speed down id i)harh.j '<('/•, to cut ojf the retreat of the fuifiiives, ^\'i,w,(''>d lie praised! I shall die happy." Vlii. jwtr<;i'" soldier t.'ivn elo.sed his eyes, and expirid. The jfp.Haiii; ilontcalm also ])cnshcdj TvJ' ring in his last moments tliat h( should !■,,,> live to witness the sur- n;iidtr of QiK'b'.e; and biitii the conquerors and ilic coiiqui'rcd joined in deploring the loss of theii brave and beloved commanders. General Townsheud thus wrote home respect- in-.r the British hero: — " I am not ashamed to own to you, thnt ray heart does not cxidt in the midst of this success. I have lost iut a friend in general Wolfe; our country a sxn'c support and a perpetual honour. If the world were sensible at how dear a price we have pm'chased Quebec in his death, it would damp the public joy. Our best consolation is, that Providence seemed not to promise that he should re- main long among us. He w.is himself sen- sible of the weakness of his constitution, and determined to crowd into a few years actions that woidd have adorned length of life." The contest had scarcely ended when Dc Bougiiinville appeared in the rear ; but he perceived that the fortune of the day was decided, and retreated without attempt- ing to retrieve it. On the 18th Quebec ca- pitulated. The French lost about 1,500 men killed and wounded. The loss of the British was as follows: — 1 general, 1 captain, 6 lieutenants, 1 ensign, 3 Serjeants, and 45 rank and file killed; and 1 brigadier-general, I staff officers, 12 captains, 2(5 lieutenants, 1 engineers, 25 serjcants, 4 drummers, and 506 rank and file wounded. The expe- ditions by land wei " also successful. Gen- eral Amherst mrrched from New York with a large force, and reduced TieoTiderago and Crown Point; while General Prideaux, aided by Sir William Johnston, M'ith a body of Indian troops, took Niagara — and thne ended the campaign. In th-.- iipriug of .KiJQ gen- eral ])e Levi havinj^ asMMiibleJ an iiiny *" regidars and miliii;v ann u.tlisg tc 12,('")i,> men, advanced to \\st', iseii;iiU of Ahrahani, and prepared to besi<'KC Uiieboe, which ).u'.i bctu left under t.'!. ot m;iu' > i ;-;' ^,;enevn» Murray wit a a ganisi,!i of ;ii)ou;, 5,OuO m- v., Ijiit whose iidiDbcrs h: ■' been greatly reuuced liv sickness. Belying on the bravery of his t\<> ;)s, and lea ring, perhaps, that his fortifi- cations were not sufficii. nt to withstand the enemy, general MuiTny ijiiitted hi« ft .tres* with abouf :.''<,0()0 i.ien to give De Lev; !ydttle; but overjiowertHl by u\imbors he wi !< com- pelled to ntur i to Que I 'I..', wi" "^he loss of 1,000 men iuui .ill his ■•i'lld au'i iiy. T!'c French, it j;i said, lost 2.!.i'0. Dc Levi vhsn besieged the to«i), ijut MuiTay held out bravely until t'iic ari-ival of a small scpiadron under admiral v^^wanton on the 15th of May, compelled tho precipitate retreat of Dc Levi. The French arr.ry then concentrated itself in Montreal; but 1 icing enclosed by the three di- visions, viz., thai under General Amherst, and those from Qiu*hee and Niagara, the French could no longer ^uaintain their ground, and the Marquis de Vaudreuil ou the 8th oi Sc])tember, 17G0, was compelled to sign a capitulation siuTcndering to the British the whole of Canada 'riie population of Ciinada then amounted to about ()!),()00, including 7,400 converted Lilians, and were described by general ^Murray as a frugal, induatrious, and moral race, with a noblesse also very poor, but much respected. The laud chiefiy cultivated was a eom])arativcly narrow stri)) on the banks of the St. Lawrence. No people ever had juster cause of gratitude for a change of government than the Canadianii in the present instance. The colonists were suffering severely from rajjacity and mis- government. Bigot, the French lutciihiut, or king's financier, and his creat'Tc^ plu.i- dcred the colonists in all possible ways ; r paper cuiTcncy, termed card-money, based on the responsibility of the king of France, for the general support of the civil and military establishments of the colony, and which, from having been faithfully redeemed during a period of thirty years, enjoyed unlimited ereilit; enabled Bigot to conceal for a long time his waste and peculations ; and whih, ';lie Britisn >vere captiu'ing Canadi: by force of arms, the French monarch wa> crafjo aivd jaiix, aiiU'd a body of t'liiE ended V : *)0 gen- m ,\nay '^ * Abralisni, wiiicli 'iv'.v n ujeneva? ' 5,000 ns' '••! atly reauced •avery of liis it hia fortifi- ithstand the 1 hi'i f'-.'tres* 3 Lev: '.attle; lie wi i< t'om- . ^be loss of ,,.l-2ry. 'i"''C Dc Levi tlvpn •ray l>eld out nail squadron 15th of May, :atof Dc Levi, itratcd itself in i )y the three di- .1 Amherst, and ira, the French ^ ir ground, and on the Hth oi ;llcd to sign a ;hc British the ! ition of Canada ,000, including were describeil tal, induatrious, jlosse also very I'hc laud chiefly 2ly narrow striv ' Lawrence. ^lo| of gratitude for II the Canadians 10 colonists were jacity and mis- 1 ■cnch Litcn.hint, creature-, idn.t- j)()ssiblo ways ; f ^ rd-uioney, based king of' France, if the civil and the colony, anil itlifidly redeemed y years, enjoyed Bigot to conceal an'd peculations , I captui'ing Canadi. ncl: monarch wa> FRRNCII AND ENOLISir Tlll':ATMK>fT OF CANADIANS. 15 destroying; the commerce and pruniKKtU of his subjects by dishonouring tlin liilU of exchange of the luteiidant to whom ho hitd granted absolute power; thus invulviiiK in ruin those who possessed any bilU or pu|H'i' currency, which at the coiupient umoi'iittul to nearly £ 4,000,()00 sterling, the only uiim- pcnsation received for whieh wui* four Jit'r cent, on the original value. Civil and religious liberty was geantdd to the Canadians ; and in the word* of thti writer of the Political Annals of CiikimIh, "previous history affords no cxumnle of *\wU forbearance and generosity on the piirt of the conquerors towards the cou(|iiei'ml'= forming such a new era in civilised wftrfiire that an admiring world admitted tiio olitiin of Great Britain to the glory of contjnei'iiiH; a people, less from views of ainhitiou imil the security of her other colonies, tlmn from the hope of improving their situation, niitl endowing them with the privilegett of ft'HM- men." At first the Entrlish civil law woa intro- duced, and all otlices were conferred on British subjects, then consisting of niilitury oHicers and about 500 petty traders, who treated with contempt even the French no- hlesse, many of whom were fine snecinu'lii* of the French gentlemen of the "old nehool," (jcneral Murray, the first English govei'iioi" of the province, strongly protesteil ftgaiiist the home policy, which was at jeuuth altered, and in 1774 the " Quebec Bill" W(w passed, which restored to the French, in civil matters, the ancient system called tlie Coutume de Paris, established a legiHlativCJ council for the regulation of all nnittui'S except taxation, and substituted a modillod oath of allegiance for the previous oathi* of abjuration and supremacy. A new cause of disturbance agoin involved the Canadian colon' 4s in the horrors of wiir, for they were ere long called upon to defend their ten-itory from the very men who IiihI assisted them in acquiring it from t\w French. The refusal of the New Engluudern to contribute their share of taxes levied liy the British government, mainly for th»' purpose of defraying the expensiis incurn'd in the capture of Canada, uiilesH pernjittcd to hond representatives to the British pur- liament, with other rcfsois which it is not within the scope of this work to detail, led to their declaration of indepciidenee, and the formation of the United States reimliiie, wlucli was no sooner established than tilt' New Englandcrs, henceforth to lie termed tlui Amoricnim, attempted the conquest of Ca- tntda. Towards the close of the summer of I77r), the American forces, amounting to •l,(M)0 Mien, invaded Canada by Lake Cham- plitiii, and from the sources of the Kennebec river. The main division, under brigadicr- Ki'iiernl Mcmtgoniery, was eminently snn- eedKfiii ) Montreal, Chambly, St. Joint's, liOligiiaoil, and other posts then of impor- liiliL'O were captured, and all the military otorcs and provisions at Montreal and on the I'ivern fell into their hands. The smaller divinion of the American army under colonel Arnold, consisting of 1100 men, sailed up tlui K(!nnel)ec, and after traversing with jdrr-at dillieulty the forests and swamps of Maine, where their sufli'erings from hiuigcr wuro NO intolerable as to induce them to eat tliti flesh of dogs, and the leather of their cttrtoitehc boxes, airived at Satagan on the ■llh of November, and on the 8th reached I'oifit Levi, opposite Quebec, whose inha- bititntii were perfectly ignorant of their tijipnmch. Quebec was at this moment itlMKmt defenceless, and had Arnold been (iblu to cross the river, in all probability it inUKt have been captured; but, fortunately, thti shipping had been removed to the other niilo, niid the news of its danger reached the J'ity while there was yet time to prepare for its defence. General Carlcton, the British movcruor, was meanwhile occupied in endea- VfHiritig to repulse general Montgomery, wlio, having made himself master of Mon- treal, turned his attention to cfl'ect a junction (»f his own division with that of Arnold. Tlio British general, by a masterly man- (tmvrt), ))a»9ed quietly do^vn the river, and rcfiehed the citadel on the 19th of Novem- ber without interruption, Arnold's troops llliving previously crossed the St. Lawrence It short distance above Quebec, taken posscs- Ni(ttl of the environs, and encamped at Pointe m% Trembles, 21 miles from Quebec, await- ing; Montgomery, who on his arrival assumed tilt' command of both divisions. Carleton Htw Welcomed in Quebec with great joy; the I'^l'eneh Canadians vied with the oldest Bri- ti»li soldiers in zeal and energy; and the littio garrison of 1,800 men, of whom only !ir»() were regulars (including 230 of Frazer'a llighlitnders, who had settled in the coun- try and were re-cmbodicd under colonel i\f'I(ean), 150 seamen, and the remainder a Kitllitnt liand of Canadian militia and armed iirtilii'ers, awaited with calm confidence the idtiiek of the enrjiliined forces. Montgomery i«ltlninoued the citadel to surrender and re- 16 AMERICAN INVASION OF CANADA. ;. 1 ccivcd an immediate refusal, upon wliioli a blockade was commenced, which lasted throu{;hout the whole month of December, when the Americans held a council of war, and decided upon a nij^ht assault. The be- BieRors divided into two storminp; parties, and, bended by Montgomery and Arnold, advanced, during the raging of a fiiritnis snow-storm, from opposite points, intending to unite near Prescott gate, and after forcing it ])rocced to the upper town. As they ap- proached the gate the assailants led by .Mont- gomery l)eeame crowded in the long narrow pass lending to the gate of the fortress, and a confused noise, mingling with the conflict of tlic elements, struck the watchful ear of the outer sentinel, who, receiving no answer to his challenge, roused the guard. Mont- goiiicry, with great quickness, formed his men for the assault, but the Canadian mi- litia, aided by nine British seamen to work ] the guns, opened a tremendous fire from the battery which commanded the path, and compelled their retreat. The liesieged, nevertheless, unable to ascertain the real state of affairs, continued their cannonade until every sound in answer to their fire had died away. The morning dawned without at first revealing any traces of the enemy, for the falling snow had thrown, as it were, a mantle over the dead bodies of the brave Montgomery and the gallant soldiers who bad fallen by bis side. His death was ren- dered the more striking by the cireumstaneo of his having, sixteen years before, served under Wolfe on the heights of Abraham, but on his marriage with the daughter of Judge Livingston be joined the cause of the colonists, and perished in attempting to de- prive the British of the fortress he bad pre- viously aided them in acquiring. Arnold had also been unsuccessful. In a desperate assault on the first barrier on tlu; opposite side he bad been severely wounded, niul taken oft' the field; but captain Morgan led on his division, carried the first barrier, and pushed on to the second, but being hemmed in by a detachment of British and Canadians in the rear, captain Morgan with his men, to tlie nund^er of 426, surrendered witliont reaching Prescott gate, where the governor bad taken bis stand. The death of their commander greatly dispirited the Americans, and though Arnold eiuleavoured to maintain bis position little was done until April, 1770, when a reinforcement of 2000 men arrived under general Wooster, who made some inefieelual attacks; but the dis- embarcation, early in May, uf su])plics from j I''ngland obliged the Americans to retreat to Montreal, and enabled C'arlcton entirely to expel them from Canada. ! At the time of the invasion there were not more than !)0() regular troops in the British colony, and the greater ])nrt of these sur- rendered in Forts Chanddy and St. John, or were taken while retii-iug from Montreal. Such, however, were the ladings of the Canadians, on account of the hon(uirable , trentinent experienced from the English government, after the ronquest of the colony from the French, that they cheerfully ex- erted themselves to preserve ('anacla to England, thus affording another illustration of the wisdom of binnanc and generous policy. It was oidy on tiic; 7th September, 1 that the Canadian officers of militia received ' their commissions ; but their activity and zeal made amends for tlic tardiness with which confidence hnd been reposed in them, ; and of 1,500 def'eiuh rs of Quebec, 800 were militia men. When the Americans evacu- ated the province, they bad about 8,000 men, but the Canadian militia and regidars presented to them an organised force of i 13,000, and thus compelled their retreat i across the frontier. On the termination of the American war, { in 17S;?, many royalists sought refuge in T'^pper or Western Caiuida, win re kinds were freely granted tlicin in the Western districts, adjoining the great lakes. In 17!)0-r>l, Mr. Pitt, to gratify the strongly expressed desire ' ! for representative government in Canada ; and for the adoption of English institutions, I divided the province into two districts ; the Western Iw-ing called l^ppcr, and the Eastern Lower Canada. The rejircsentativc assem- blies were elected by 40*. freeholders, which was nearly eqiuvalent to universal sufl'rago, but the proposed counterpoise by the cre- ation of an hereditary noblesse, including the most respectable of the French seig- neurs, was prevented by the opposition of Mr. Fox, whose recommendation of a council chosen by the crown for life, was : adopted. The first House of Asscndily in i Lower Canada, consisting of .50 members, ' was held in 1 792. The object of jMr. Pitt in dividing the pnwnce was evidently to conciliate the feelings, and even prejudices,! of the French Canadians, who, in 1778, in !i' memorial to the crown, thus expressed ; their sentiments ; — "It is our religion, ouri laws relative to our property, and our per ' sonal surety in w'lieli we are most interested;] ie8 from i ptvpnt to I itircly to were not ,c Brltisli lirse 8ur- . John, or Montronl. Ts of the lonouriihle .. Eu^lish thc colony rrfully ex- Civnada to illustration il generous , I SeptemVjor, i itiii received [letivity and fdiness Avith sed in tliem, ec, «)0 were •iciins cvacu- ahont 8,000 and regnlars iscd force of their retreat Vmcrican war, o-lit refujic in m' liinds were iStern di>>triets, qiressed desn-c „t in Canada sh institutions, , districts ; the ind tlic EoKtarn futativc assein- eiiohh^rs, which iversal suffrage, ,isc l)y tlie erc- )\essc, including lie French seig- le opposition of, lendation of a wn for life, was of Assembly m ', of no nicmliers,! lUiTllKAT OF THE AMERICANS FRO.M CANADA. i: cct of ^Ir. Vitt l-as evidently to, even prejudices, | ,ho,inl778,in»l thus expressed: our rclitjion, ouv j ,rtv, and our l«er ; •emost interesu:il;| and these wo enjoy in tlic most ample man- ner by the QiK^bec bill. We are the more riverse to a House of Assembly, from the ital cous('{[iicnces whieli will nwiUt from it. Can we, as Roman Catholics, ho|)e to pre- serve for any leiifjtli of time the same pre- rogatives as Protestant iubjects in a House of Representatives? and will there not come a time when the influenee of tiie latter will overbalance! tliat of our posterity? In this case slioiild we and our posterity enjoy the same advantaj^es which our present constitu- tion secures to us? A}^ain: have we not reason to dread lest wc should soon see those taxes levied upon tin; estates which are at present actually h^vicd upon articles of eomiuerce, which the inh.-iliitant pays indirectly it is true, but in proportion to what he consumes? Shall wc not fear that we may one day see tin; sci'ds of dissension created by the Assembly of Representatives, and nourished by those intestine hatreds which the opposite interests of the old and new subjects will naturally ^ive birth to?" The Lcf^islativc (youiieil of Lower Canada for some time governed tins colony, and the Representative Assembly was merely the register of its acts ; and previous to 1807 complaints were mach;, that the members of the Council made larjjc! grants of land to themselves; the Asst-inbly demanded that the judges being depcMident on and removable by the government should not sit in the Assembly, and to gain this concession they offered to defray iVom the funds of the colony, the whole expense of its civil ad- ministration. This was refused by the governor and reprcstuitatives of the crown with indignation, the Assembly was dis- solved, and a Fren<;h newspaper, t(!rmed the "Canadian," which had censured the pro- ceedings of the government, and of the Legislative Ccmneil, was suppressed, by the imprisonment of the print<;r, and the des- truction of Ids types and presses. Six in- dividuals were also taken into custody, but never brought tanada should receive their liberty. In 1 SI 2, the Americans, thinking the period ])ropitioiis i'or capturing Canada, by reason of the discontent which existed, espeeiallv in Lower Canada, at the couduct of Sir James Craig, resolved to declare war agai'ist England, and invade Canada, where it was supposed the mass of thfs people would be disposed to receive the Aniericans with open arras. Dr. Eustis, rtecr<'l.iTy-at-war, said in Congress — " We can taie the Canadaa with- out soldiers; we have otil'j to send cjpcerg into the provinces, and tlic people disaffected towards their own government will rally round our standard;" and Mr. Clay stated — "It is absurd to suppose that we shall not succeed in our enterprise against the ene- my's provinces. We have the Canada.^ as much at our command as Great Britain has the ocean. IVe must take the continent from them : I loish never to see peace till we do." The proceedings of the United States government of that day were totally un- justifiable. The Marquis Wellesley, then Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, re- ceived intelligence from diflerent parts of America during the year 1811, that the Americans were preparing to invade Canada. On the 24th June, 1812, it was known at Que- bec ihat war was declared between England anfl America; and the Canadians rose with a no le spirit, in defence of England and of thiir country. They might have availed th".nsclves of the distiu'bed state of Great P -itain — they might have joined, on their era terms, the United States, and formed a 'ortion of the Congress — but their efforts were thosf" j ' a generous natui'c, which, for- getting the injuries, remembered only the benefits, received from England. Four bat- talions of militia were instantly raised, — the Canadian Voltigcurs (a fine corps especially suited to the country) were organized and equipped in the short space of sis weeks, by the liberality of the younger piirt of the Ca- nadian gentry, from among whom they were gallantly officered ; thus a spirit of military enthusiasm was infused into the whole pop- lation, and an example held up to the settlers in Upper Canada, highly important at a crisis, when the regular troops of England were drained from the colonies for the pur- pose of combating Napoleon. Sir George Prevost, the new governor, summoned the Canadian pai'liamcnt, ap- n 1 1 I 18 AMERICAN WAR IN 181^>-18. pealed to its lionouroblc Hpirit, to the attncli- racnt of the people to tin- religion of their forefathers, and their ardent love for the true interests of their coupfv. Tl. • Cana- dians responded to the appeal, ain' were expressly thanked by his rojal highness tlic Prinee Regent for their support and attaeli- ment — his royal lii^hness doehiring, that "reiving with confidence on the courage and loyalty of his majesty's Canadian subjects, ho was equally fearless of the result of any attack upc i them, or of any insidious attempt to alienate their affections from the mother country." On the breaking out of the war. Upper Canada was partly peopled by emigrants bx>m . r United States, who might be sup- posed imwilling to shed the blood of their kindred ; the people of Lower Cana'la had but recently been represented by authority as seditious, or so liable to lie turned from their allegiance as to endanger the ^'ovem- meut. There were only about 4,000 Britidli troops in both provinces, scattered along a frontier of 1 'iOO miles ; and the St. Law- rence, an immense military liighway, open to the United States, and leading into the heart of Canada, was undefended, thus rn- dangcring the safety of the British forces stationed on its bordei-s. With the view of keeping up the price of bills of exchange, of which the military government was the chief vendor, the specie of the country had been suffered to be carried into the United States, which materially added to existing difficulties. To remedy this and prepare for defence, the legislature was assembled ; and government paper, bearing interest, and payable in bills of exchange on Englnnd, was substituted for specie. Tlie arrival of two battalions, for tlir piir- pose of relieving two others under orders for their departure, added to the regular force. At the instance of the government, a law had passed diu'ing the preceding winter, for driiltiug the militia tor actual service, and four weak battalions had been assembled before the war. Every description of force was prepared for service; the citadel of Que- bec was ^arnsoned by the inhabitants of tlie town, proud of the duty and of the conti- deace of the government. In a nioiith after the declaration of war, the lower province seemed capable of becoming tl.j assailant. The Americans had collected, in the summer of 1811, their principal rc'j;\dar force on their north-western frontier ostensibly against the Indians, tvhom they attacked. This force. comnuinded by general iltill, one of the few remaining oflieers of the witr nf ItHlr|ien- deuce, was joined by niilltlH id volunteers, who had set out on llieir iiifireh for Ujiiter ('auada, before the deejiii'iitioii of war. The invaders made roiuU Ihronnh innnense forests, depending on tliciri for their roin- munieations and niipplieN, nnd arrived at Detroit, on the fifth July, \H\'2, about a.nCK) strong. On tlie l:ilh July, the enemy passed over into Upper Ciinatm, tinik ponsea- sion of Sandwich, and iHnui'd ii proehi-iuition to t!ie apparently ileleneeleNn inhifDitants, inviting them to join the Aiiierieiin Ntandard, or at least to remain inactive, attpuinng them, in either case, of tlie protection of the United States. After some trilling skirmishes with the handful of Hritjith IroopN Ntutioned nt Fort Mahhm, which, under the ('(iinmand of lieutenant-colonel Ht, (Icori^e protected Amherstburg, and upon hearing of the eon- scciuences of li.e miri'cnder of Micliilima- kinack, which drev/ uiion the Ainerieans the hostility of nearly all the Indiiiiis, general Hull became iiliirnicd for bin own safety, and returned to Detroit, where he shut himself up on the 7th of August, Hir Oeorge I're- vost had enlniMted the govrniinent nnd command of Upjier (-'aiKidu !'» getiernl Rrock, an able and active Heliiicr -.fiH* streiiuiMsiy supported the Hpi>'.., of tlii' loyal iiiliiibitiitits. On the 5th August, Hroek in'oroKued the parliament at York ; on the l2th lie was at Amherstburg J he crossed the frontier and was advancing to the nttiiek of the fort of Detroit, when a white (lag was lield nut, and general Hull and his whole iirmy, who, it must bo own(!d, went greatly re'diieed by sickness, surrendered to a (oirc of fWO regu- lars, 400 militia, and (MM) Indinns. People were utterly amay-eil when they saw so con- siderable a part of tint Aineriean forces marched eBjjtivi into Montreal nnd Uuebcc, Two months nl'ti'v the surrender of Hull, the enemy had collected unotliei' force of (iOOO m(!n on the Niiigni'B frontier. On tlic UUh October, thih force crossed over into ITpper Canada, at Queenstoii, mid overpowered the small detachment Hlnti.iiied there. Gencr. ' Brock, who was iit l''ort Oeorge, put himself at the head of a siiihII iiitrty, hastened to the sjjot in iidviiiiee of jiis nrmy, and fell while valiantly, hut iiied'eetuiilly, resisting overpowering niiiiibei'H, The 'enemy ob tained possession of the heights, but wni soon dislodged by the Krilisli troops on their arriv.l, nnd 700 men surrendered nt dis- eretiua to geiieiul HlieitH'e, on whom the AMERICAN INVA.-iON OP' CANADA WEST. lu r tlir ffw liiili'iicn- (lunttrrn, n\r. The- iiiiint'ii'"" lirir c'oui- irrivcil td .out !4,r.(H) w ciH'tiiy [ii'ln'nntion iiliii'ititmit*. II Htutidnrd, iriiin thrm, tlidUnitfil m\n\\vn with itiit limed nt < (Miiinnimd ;(i protcftpil MidiiUnm- iiicrii'im" t''C limit, Kcuprtil n !.ni'fty, mill xhiit luniHclf Clcnrno I'ro- iTiiim-iit niid ;('titTnl Urock, uti'ftiiii'UKly li inliiil)iliiiit». if(ir()|!;m'tl thr. 'i\\i hv WHS at | , ) fVdtitiiT nnd | . of tlir Ibrt of 1 licld niit, nnd \ iiriiiy, «1k), it ; y nuluccd by ! h,. of a;i() rci?ti- ; dilUlH. I'lHJldc py Hiiw w) con- ii(n<*nii forces III nnd Ouebcc. ; ilcr of n»H, tlie i foiTC of (KKX) , On tlic IJUh i over into Unpcr ' [)vrri)owiTcd the tlu'i'c. Oi-ncr,' )r«i', put liiniwlf rty, Imstcncd to * nnny, nnd ft'll ■tiiully, rcsistiiit5 '\'\w cnciny «» icinhtN, but wflJ ill tidoim on their rrndcrtd nt dis- L', on whom tUu command had devolved. A t(?mporary triinc ensued, which w:is intcrniptcil by »n ntt<'\npt lit invasion, on the 2()th and 28th Novem- ber, near Fort Erie, by tlia Anvricnn j^enend Smytli, with 4,.500 men, whieli wiw iT|)ul8ed by licutenant-eolonel l)ia^4h()pp, with GttO rej^ulars nnd miiitiii. An eciually nnsuccessful attempt w.as made about the same time, by the Uritish naval force on Lake Ontario, against Saeket's harbour. The rest of the winter passed away without any event of importanee, except the capture, on the 23nd January, by colonel Proiitor, afti-r n smart action, of 11) prisoners, amongst wliom was the American gcaernl Winchester, on the Detroit frontier; and an assault on Ojjdensbur}^, which appears to have been intended ns a prelude to an attack on Saeket's Harbour. From the time of the Kurrcnder of Hull, the Americans, however much they blamed that officer, seem to have been fully aware of the chief cause of his disaster ; they, therefore, strained every nerve to obtain control of tlu- lakes, and the ice no sooner disappeared on Lake On- tario, than they came out with a superior naval force fi'om Saeket's Harbour, which, for a time, secured to them the possession of the lake. On the 27th April, ISM, general Dear- born landed with 2001) Americans, who, after a brave resistance on the part of iieneral Sheaffe, and about (JOO men, gained possession of York (Toronto) the capital of Upper Canada, where they destroyed the pui)lii' buildings, carried olf the artillery and naval stores, and wreaked their vengeance on a iniuting press, and the frame of a ship building for the Hritisli service on the lake. The enemy then proceeded to Niagara to besiege Fort George, where they landed troops, and then returned to Saeket's Har- bour, from whence additional foret's were coiivc 'ed to the same (juarter, which sue- eicded in landing to the iiumber of 4000 nu'u, in spite of the determined resistance of brigadier-gencnil Vincent; who with only 1000 regulars and 300 militia, and a fort rendered indefensible by the severe fire it had sustained from an American battery on the op])osite side, still contested the ground, but was finally compelled to retreat to JJurlington Buy, near the western ex- tremity of Lake Ontari), leaving the whole Niagaru iVontier, contuiuiug a very large pro- portion of the population of Upper Canada, m the power of the enemy. During the taking of Fort George, an abortive attempt was made by general Sir O. Prevost on the Americans at Saeket's Harbour, which, unhappily, led to a miiunderstandin'x be- tween him and t!ie naval s'-rvice, productive of much evil to the British interest in the Canadas during the remainder of the war. Their bucccss encouraged the enemy, and extraordinary exvrtioiis wctc made at this period by the United States. Two corjjs were despatched under gjiierals Winchester and irarrison, by dilVcrent lines, for the seizure of Detroit aiul the adjoining dis- tricts; Winchester, Avith about KMM) men, arrived first, and colonel I'roetor seizing the opportunity, hastily collected his forces, amounting to about 500 whites, and 450 Indians, gave the enemy battle on the 22nd January, 1813, and succeeded in gaining n complete victory, captunng the g(!neral and 167 American soldiers, and killing and wounding as many more; general Win- chester fell into the hands of a Wyandot Indian, who stripped off his uniform, adormul his own person with it, and was with diffi- culty induced to make restitution. Colonel Proctor reinforced his troops, and proceeded to the falls of Mi;imi, where gen- eral Harrison had taken up his position, and having learned the defeat of his associate, was awaiting succours from the main body of the American army. In spite of many delays, which enabled Harrison to strengthen his position, colonel Proctor succeeded in greatly weakening the enemy's force, and removing all immediate danger of invasion. Meanwhile Dearborn resolved upon driving the British from Burlington Heights, and cutting off the commuuieatiou between gen- erals Vincent and Proctor, and on the 5th of June, 40(X) men under generals Chandler and Winder, took up their jjosition at Stoney Creek, and with full coutidenco in the superiority of their numbers, prepared to attack general Vincent on the following day. Lieutenant-C(>'ioiio! Harvey, after re- coiinoitriug the cncmy'-j position, proposed attacking it that ui'.'!it, und having obtained permission to do s> >, sut'cccilcd in sui-prising the American camp, wii.U 704 bayonets; and after killing and wounding a great nundier of th(! cuiemy he retired, carrying with him both Chandler and Winder, and 120 men as pri'^oners. This affair so thoroughly diseon- eerl>'d the enemy, that they retreated to Forty Mile Creek, eleven miles distant, and on being threatened by Sir James Yeo, who was advancing with a squadron and a few troops to the support of general Vincent, 20 OATJiANT CONDUCT OF COLONEL DK SALAnKllK V. they ivt'iTvd to Fort Cuorfrc. From tinner lii'iitriiunt-coloiu'l HinrstliT was m-iit witli 7()() men to seize an advanw-d [ni»t of the EM(,'li»h ttt BcaviT-dam, but hnufi; attacked firHt by a body of Indians, and afterwards by a few British troops, lie surrendered liimself and his corps prisoners of war. The cam- pai(;n continued some time without any event of much moment, lAceptinjf the cap- ture, ou 3rd June, 1813, of two American vessels, carrying 22 >:uns, which were taken by the British at Isle nux Noix, after a well contesteil action of three hours, and sonic other smuUer advantages gained by the British. On the 11th July a successful attack was made ))y the British on Black Ruck, headed by colonel Bisshopp, who was mortally wounded while re-cmbarking; and ou the 30th of that month colonel Murray de- stroyed the American barracks at Platts- burg. But at this time the triumphs of the English were changed into reverses. On the 10th of September commodore Perry, with a squ.adron of 9 vessels mounting 50 guns, captured the British naval force on Lake Eric. Colonel Proctor could therefore no longer obtain supplie*, his only means of communication with the British army be- ing by land, several hundred miles through forests. His situation nearly resembled that of Hull, at Detroit; he had one advantage, however, which Ilidl had not — the friendship of the Indians, but he strangely delayed his retreat a fortnight after the loss of his fleet, aiul till the near approacli of a superior force of the enemy. On the 5tli of October he ■was only three days' march (56 miles) from Detroit, pursuing his retreat along the Trcnche. His force consisted of less than 1,(XX) British and militia, and about 1,200 Indians, the greater number of whom gra- dually deserted him, ■whilst the Americans were u])wards of 3,000 strong. He chose his position carefully, hoping thereby to neutralize the cft'eet of superior immbers, but a sudden charge of moimtcd Kentucky rifle- men broke the British line, the whole was thrown into confusion, ond a large immbcr of the British were made prisoners. The Indians who still remained with Proctor fought bravely, headed by their chief Te- cumtheh, who had perscveringly endeavoured to unite all the tribes in a confederacy against the Americans. He is described as singu- larly brave and generous, and gifted with extraordinary powers of eloquence. He per- ished in the condiet with many of his f'lith- tul followers. The Anu'ricans n-ti rned to Detroit with their prisoners, and Proctor, with a few stragglers and a number of In- dians, retired to Aneaster, and after rallying about 2(K) men joined the army ut Niiigiira. The Anu'riean forces gradually coUccti'd ut the lower ends of Lakes Ontario and Cliinu- plain under generals Wilkinson and Hamil- ton, with the intenticm of making a com- bined attack on Montreal, while the chief part of the British regular force was in Upjier Canada. Major-gcnerid Hampton was to .alvunce with (),(M)0 men from Lake Cham plain, and major-general Wilkinson, with H,0{)0 men, from Grenadier Island, near Saeket's harbour. It was evident that if this attack succeeded, and the command of that city and the surrouiuling country should be retained by the Americans, l^jiper Canada was con(iuercd, and every British soldier in it a prisoner, unless he could succeed in fighting his way to Quebec. There was nothing to jirevent Wilkinson, with competent pilots for the rapids, from landing on the Island of Montreal with an army comiilctcly ctjuipped in three or four days after his leaving Lake Ontorio, and Hampton was only a couple of days' march from the St. Lawrence. Some misunderstanding, how- ever, with respect to time appears to have arisen between them. On ihc 21st of Octo- ber Hampton entered the province appar- ently Avith the intention of penetrating the St. liawrenee, by the river Chateauguay. On the 26th he came upon colonel do Sala- bcrry's position on that river, about 30 miles from the frontier. This oflicer, a native of Canada, belonging to one of its old and most distinguished families, had served with the British army in various parts of tlie world. To great activity and personal intrepidity he united military science and experience, ami possessed the entire confidence of Ids little force, which formed the advance of the army, and consisted of about 800 men, chiefly natives of Lower Canada, and composed of fcnciblcs, voltigeurs, militia, and Indians. The enemy, formed principally of new levies, seemed to think that the battle was to be won by field manoeuvres, aiul platoon-firing. Colonel dc Salabcrry took ad\antage of all the protection for his men that the choice of position in a thickly wooded country aflorded, and poured in a deadly fire, every man making sure of his object; the colonel setting the example. The enemy's loss wai considerable, but has never been correctly rin'd to I'roctor, • of In- rallyint? Niujiarii. licti'd lit il C'hiiiu- I llaiui)- r a coin- in Ui)!)*"" II was to ke Chum sou, with and, near >nt that if jmmaiul of i\try »\iouUl per (Canada li soklicr in succeed in There was li competent lint; on tlic y eomi'lctcW tys after Ivis ampton was from the St. inding, how- cars to have 21st of Octo- avinee appar- netrating tlie Chateauguay. onel do Sala- ibout 30 miles er, a native of i old and most rvcd with the of the world. intrepidity he L-Kpcricnce, and ICC cf liis Uttle ce of the army, l ) men, chiefly-^ j id composed ot , and Indians, ly of new levies, lattle was to he d platoon-finnu;. advantage of all \ that the choice i noodcd country eadly fire, every icct; the colonel | enemy's loss wii* r been correctly ; 3V COMBINKD ATTACK ON CANADA EAST IN 1S13. 31 Bdccrtnined ; that of colonel de Salaherry'i force was, two killed and sixteen wounded. Hampton, lieiicving hini»<'lf to \w ojiponed by a iarne force, retired to the frontier, and thence to IMitttHbur);, where lie remained in a state of inactivity, iiis army dwindling; awav by sickness and desertion, (leneral Wilkinson, with his division, which eonsiHteervise the future appropria- tion. Sir John Sherbrooke laid before the Assembly, at their urgent solicitation, a detailed estimate of the civil expenditure, divided under distinct heads. Unfortu- nately the state of Sir John's health com- pelled his return to Englaiul, and on the 13tli of July, 1818, the Duke of Richmond was a|)]iointed governor-general. His Gi'aei refused to place detailed estimates before the Honsc of Assembly, and recjuircd th" House to vote the su])plies under branch heads witliotit detail. In this jjolicy he wa.> su])ported by the Legislative (Jouucil, ami CLAIMS OP THE E. CANADIAN ASSEMBLY IN 1815-lG. 23 itablish- at SiiuU nanagctl (liana to captured isli naval ad from loats two e Huron, ccurc the ;o recovc) le forme: ar, raean- at impor- ed posses- destroyed •ty, as the At New ted. Both nd on the )etwecn the was signed tored tran- )f February, (elaimed at slaiih made ! Prevost. imraoud was I'rcvost; and .cut resumed once of the t'f judges of the 12th of trbrooke was le adopted a 818 was in- liis majesty's Ionics, to ac- hy the colo- list out of the cruor-gencral, sum to meet granted: new the Assembly urc appropria- aid before the solicitation, a il expenditure, as. llnfortu- I's health com- id, ami on the e of llichmond >riil. His ^^''f- jstiuiiiles before id re(iaircd th" s under branch lis policy he ^va^ vc Council, ami the duke by its advice drew upon the re- ceiver-general of the provincial revenues for the sum he required. In September, 1819, the Duke of Richmond died of hydro- phobia; on the 18th of June, 1820, the Earl of Dalhousie, who possessed higli repu- tation as a soldier, was of very nmiablc character, and had been much liked as governor of Nova Scotia, was appointed governor-general of Canada, The noble carl, acting under the advice of his Legis- lative Council, on being i-cfuaed by the Assembly £22,000 as a permanent grant, ft-hieh he required for the public service, unless in detailed items, as an annual bill of supply, drew upon the receiver-general for even a larger sum ; and in this he was supported by Earl Bathurat, who, however, recommended economy for tlic future, and directed two esiimates to be prepared — one, including the expenses of civil government, to be defrayed from funds of which the crown claimed the entire disposal ; the other and much smaller estimate to embrace divers public objects, over Avhich the House of Assembly was to exercise complete con- trol. This partial concession to the reason- able demands of the representatives of the people was well received, and the moncj' voted accordingly. The French Canadians were grateful for the liberties which they gradually acquired from the British govern- ment ; and in their constitutional struggles tiicy were aided by the reformers in the House of Assembly in Upper Canada, who had also to contend against what was termed the " family compact" party. Lord Durham thus described the power this party possessed, and the influence it exercised on the govern- ment, legislature, and fjencral affairs of the pro vi nee : — " For a long time this body of men, receiving at times accessions to its numbers, jjossossed of almost all the highest public of- fices, by numns of which, and of its influence iu the Executive Council, it wielded all the powers of govei'iiment ; it maintained influ- ence in the legislature by means of its pre- dominanee iu the Legislative Council; and it disposed of the large number of petty posts which are in the jmtronagcof the Government 'ill over the province. Successive governors, as they came in their turn, are said to liave either s^ubmitted ((uietly to its influence, or, after a short and unavailing struggle, to have yielded to this woU-orgaiiizcd party the real conduct of afl'airs. The bench, the magistracy, the high ofliccs of t\w. hjiiiscopal church, and a great part of the h^gal pi-o- fession, arc lilkd by the adherents of this party: by griiut or purchase, they have acquired nearly the whole of the waste lands of the province ; they are all-powerful in the chartered banks, and, till lately, shared among themselves almost exclusively all ofhees of trust and profit. The bulk of this party consists, for the most part, of native-born inhabitsmts of the colony, or of emigrants who settled iu it before the last war with the United States ; the principal members of it belong to the church of England, and the maintenance of the claims of that church has always been one of its distinguishing characteristics. " A monopoly of power so extensive and so lasthig could not fail, in process of time, to excite envy, create dissatisfaction, and idti- mately provoke attack; and an opposition consequently grew up in the Assembly which assailed the ruling party, by appeal- ing to popular principles of government, by denouncing the alleged jobbing and profu- sion of the official body, and by instituting inquiries into abuses, for the purpose of promoting reform, and especially economy. The official party not being removed when it failed to command a majority in the Assembly, still continued to wield all t'lc powers of the executive government, to strengthen itself by its patronage, and to influence the policy of tlie colonial governor and of the colonial department at home. By its secure majority in the Legislative Council, it could effectually control the legislative powers of the Assembly. It coidd choose its moment for dissolving hos- tile Assemblies ; and could always ensure, for those that were favourable to itself, the tenure of their scats for the full terra of the four years allowed by law." It is, howev(!r, due to this party to state, that t! ey did much for the welfare of (Canada; and many of the social iniprovemcnts, whieli mark the grad\ial progress of C!aiiada, h;\d their origin iu the endeavours of the " fa- mily compact," who were, geuendly speak- ing, not related to each other, but attached by certain principles, such as tiiosc of tiie old Tory party in iMigland. Of their loyalty there has never iieeu a doubt ; l)ut it may be questioned wlietlier their proloniied o|)- ])Ositi()n to the carrying out of principles which the majority of t'ose most interested earnestlv and ])crsi' eriu'^ly desired, has not caused many of the evils which have since befallen Canada. M. l'aj)ineaiij at his eleclion for the west 84 ADVANTAGES CONFERRED ON THE CANADIANS. ward of the city of Montreal, in July, 1820, thus indicated the advantages which the Canadians had derived from British rule : — " Not many days," Raid 51. Pupincau, " have elapsed since we assembled on this spot for the same purpose as that wliich now calls us tosrcllicr— the choice of represontalives; the piiortunity of tliat choice b'^ing caused by a great national calamity — the decease of that beloved Sovereign who had reigned over the inhabitants of thiii country since the day they became British subjects: it is im|)Ossible not to express the feeling of gratitude for the many benefits received from liim, and those of sorrow for liis loss, so deeply felt in this, as in every other por- tion of his extensive dominions. And how could it be otherwise, when each year of liis long reign has been marked by new favours bestowed upon t)\e country? To enumerate these, and to detail the liistory of this country for so many years, would occupy more time than can be spared by those whom I have the honour to address. Suffice it then at a glance to compare our present happy situation with tliat of our fathers on the eve of tJie day when George the Third became their legitimate monarch. Suffice it to recollect, that under the French government, (internally and externally arbitrary and oppressive,) the interests of this country had been more constantly neglected and mal-administered than any other part of its dependencies. In its estimation, Canada seems not to have been considered as a country which, from fertility of soil, salubrity of climate, and extent of territory, might have been the peaceful abode of a numerous and happy population, but as a military post, whose feeble garrison was condemned to live in a state of perpctualwarfare and insecurity, frequently sutl'ering from famine, without trade, or a trade mo- noijolised hy ])riyileged comiMinies, public and private property often j)illaged, and personal liberty daily violated; when year after year the handful of inliab- itaiits settled in this province were dragged from their homes and families, to shed their blood, and cany murder and havoc from the shores of the great lakes, the Mis6issip])i and the Ohio, to those of Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and Hudson's liay. Such was the situation of our fathers: behold the change! George the Third, a sovereign revered for his moral character, attention to his kiiigly duties, and love of his subjects, succeeds to Louis XV., a prince then deservedly desjii.sed for his debauchery, his inatten- tion to the wants of his people, and his lavish pro- fusion of the public monies upon favourites and mistresses. From tliat day the reign of the law suc- ceeded to that of violence. From that day the trea- sures, the navy, and the armies of Great Britain, are mustered to afford us an invincible protection against external danger. From that day the better ])art of her laws became oursj while our religion, property, and the laws by wliich tlicy were governed, remain unaltered. Soon after are granted to us the privi- leges of its free constitution; an infallible pledge, when acted \i]ion, of our internal prosperity. Now religious toleratioiii trial by jury (that wisest of aafe- guai'ds ever devised for the protection of innocence); security against arbitinry im])nsonmenl, by the privi- leges altaelitd to the writ of Habeas Corpus; legal and eipial security atforded to all, in their person, honour, and property; the right to obey no other laws than those of our own making and choice, ex- pressed tliriiugli our represeiitiilives; — all these ad- vantages have become our birthiight. and shall. 1 hope, be the lasting inheritance of our posterit)'. To secure them let us only act as British subjects and freemen." — Life of Lord Sydenham. The 8trup:{!flR on the part of the represen- tatives of the people for complete control over the local revenues, and a not unnatural desire on the part of the Canadians, that some of their representatives who possessed their confidence, should be placed in office, or in the liCgislative Assembly, grew more urgent, when Sir John Caldwell, the re- ceiver-general in 1823, "became an insol- vent, and was found to be indebted to the public to the amount of .€100,000." In 1821. the majority of the Assembly denied the right of the crown to appropriate any part of the revenues of the province without their consent ; required a reduction of the public expenditure; and that publicity should be given to the revenue receipts and dis- bursements, which they had vainly claimed during Sir John Caldwell's receivership. Lord Dalhousie expressed strong displeasure at these proceedings ; but diu-ing his tempo- rary absence Sir Francis Burton, his loaim tenens, yielded a great point to the Assembly, by sanctioning a supply bill, in which no distinction was made between the civil go- vernment and "popular" expenditure, the whole being considered an annual grant under the control of the Assembly. The custom duties collected on imports imder an Act of the British parliament in 1771, now amounted to about .fc'J 1,000 a year; and a smaller amoimt was raised from the sale of lands and timber, which it was alleged had been much "joljbcd" hy .some of the members of the Legislative Council. The Assembly claimed the entire disposal ol these sums, declaring, that as they wer(! contributed by the people, the representa- tives of the people ought alone to be en- trusted with their ajijiropriation. To this Lord Dalhousie objected, and he was sup- ported by Earl Bathuist, who censured the concession made by Sir Francis Burton. On the accession of Lord Ooderieh (now Earl of llipon) to the station oi' Secretary of State for the Colonies in 1827, he di- r(!eted a proposition to be made to the Assembly, olfering the surrender of tlu- disputed revenues, on condition of their granling a civil list in perv tutity of ,tlJO,()0(l jier annum. The H- - • of Assembly me to consider this proposition, and eici^ted M Pa]uneau as its speaker, an appointment which the govcnor-general refused to confirm, on aeeouut of tlie r .losition tlial J'^ IMPERIAL PARLIAMENT SUPPORTS THE CANADIANS. 25 ity. To ects ana presen- , control [natural 19, that Dssessed a office, !W more the re- , .n insol- , a to the K)." In y denied nate any J without in of the ity shoidd and dis- if claimed •civcrship. lispleasure lis tcmpo- his locum Assembly, which no c civil go- diturc, the lual grant ibly. The orts under t in 1774', ;)0 a year; aiscd from liich it was \" by some vc Council. - disposal oi i they were ri'preseuta- e to he cn- m. To this he was s\ip- •cnsurcd the icis Burtanada to the king, signed by 87,()00 inhabitants, complaining of the conduct of successive governors, and urging the justice of compliance with the requirements of the Assembly. Mr. Iluskisson, then Colonial Minister, moved that the petition shoidd be referred to a select committee of the House of Commons, which was accordingly done — the committee strongly condemned the practice of appropriating large sums of the money loied from the Canadian people, without the concurrence of their Parlia- ment — recommended, that the whole re- venue of the colony should be placed at the disposal of the Assembly — that the governor, judges, and Executive Council should be independent of the annual votqs of the Assembly — that persons having the confidence of the people, should be liberally viewed by the crown in its appoint- ments to the Legislative and Executive Councils — and stntcd generally, that the complaints of the colonists were well- founded, and deserved redress. The report of the committee of the Imperial Parliament gave great satisfaction in the colony, and the Assembly ordered four hundred copies to be printed and cUstributcd among their constituents. Sir James Kempt was sent out in Sep- tember, 1828, in the place of Lord Dal- housie ; he treated the colonists with frank- ness and liberality, added new members to the Executive Council, and requested the judges to retire from the Legislative Coun- cil, which they refused to do, though they promised to take no part in its delibera- tions. In 1820 the Assembly cut off several thousand pounds from the estimates laid before them by the governor, and Sir George Murray, tben ('olonial Secretary, did r.ot dis- allow the act. Sir James Kempt, to the great regret of the colonists, quilted Canada in IHJW. He was succeeded liy Ijord Aylnier. The Act of Piirliament wliieli was necessary to sanction the proposed transfer of iuithority over the public purse was unfo»'tunately de- layed by the death of Georf;,o IV. and other circumstances. Lord CJoderieh, who was again at the head of the Colonial Office, on the ;.! Ith December, 1 H:>0, announced tlirou;;li VOL. I. the governor-general, his intention of bring- ing a bill into Parliament to secure to the Asjicmbly the disposal of the colonial reve- nues, and requiring in return a fixed civil list of £li),l()0. His lordship, however, intimated that the timber, territorial, and other casual revenues, which had amounted to €11,231, were to remain at tbe disposal of the crown, and to be employed chiefly in the maintenanc of the Established Church. The Assembly thercu[)on passed a resolution that, "under no circumstances, and upon no consideration whatever would they aban- don or compromise their claim over the whole public revenue." On the 8th March, 1831, the House pre- sented a long list of grievances to the go\- ernor-gcneral, which his lordship transmitted home, admitting that many of them were well-founded. The Imperial Parliament then passed an act giving the Colonial Assembly full power over the colonial revenues, but leaving the question of the civil list still unsettled. On the 20tli January, 1832, the Assembly decreed that the judges should be independeut of the crown, and should have permanent salaries assigned them, but that only the chief justice should hold a seat in the Executive Council. By a large majority, on the motion of ^Ir. Neilson, it was re- solved that the salaries should be drawn in the first instance from the casual and terri- torial revenues. AMicn the bill came home Lord Goderich, desirous of preserving to the j crown the disposal of the casual and tcrri- 1 toi-iul revenues, refused the royal assetit, whir'' greatly exasperated matters in the colony; the A^.'.nbly declined to do more than pass anu , supjily-bills for the gov- ernor and other branches of the exi-cutive, and eonfidi'utly reTeiTed to the deeision ot the connnittce of the House of (Commons, by which his majesty'.; ministers had pro- mised to be guided. The pofiular party then eouinu'!!' od a direct atta<'k o.i the Legis- lative Conneil — attached the names of iiuli- vidii '.1 to the salaries voted, and appended the condition that several olliees wt're not to be held I'y one individual — a not unreasona- ble dvmand, since there were instances of several distinct appointments being hel 1 by the same j)erson. This measure was re- jected in England. So far the Assembly had justice on their side; but, irritated by the opposition their wishes met with at home, they proceeded to demand the (tholitiou of the Tjegishitive (\iuneil, and tlie substitTi- tiou of a (.\)uiieil eieeled from the body of ]•; i IM la ROYAL COMMISSIONERS SENT TO CANADA IN 1835 tlio people; the fi-ancliise to be .€20 in the towns and €10 in the country; a stated income to be a necessary qualification for the Legislative Councillors, and their func- tions to last for six years. This proposition somewhat resembled that suggested by Mr. Pox in 1790. Lord Stanley, then Secretary of State for the Colonies, announced, that he deemed such a measure inconsistent with mon- archical institutions, and therefore could never advise his majesty to consent thereto. He also censured the Legislative Council for its intemperate language, and intimated "the possibility that events might unhappily force upon Parliament the exercise of its supreme authority, to compose the internal dissension of the colonies, which might lead to a modi- fication of the charter of the Canadas." This was considered a threat by the Assem- , lily, and in 1834 they resented it by refusing , to pass any supply bill, and M. Dennis ! Vigcr was deputed to proceed to London, ' to lay before his majesty's government a detailed statement of the grievances of the colonists. Mr. Spring Rice, now Lord l^Tonteagle, hiiving succeeded Lord Stanley as Colonial ^Minister, intimated his intention of re- nouncing the dis])uted revenues, acc(jrding to the recommendation of the parlianuMitary committee; but asked for time to consider the whole subject. M. I'apincau, and other leaders, therefore, deferred any strong mea- sures, but complained that the adniinistra- ^ ti(jn was carried on as usual, and that i ii:31,()00 had been advanced from the mili- tary chest for the payment of the civil servants, whereby their responsibility to the Assembly was evaded. Lord Stanley justified this act on the ground that tiie civil ser- vants would otherwise have been left without any salary, through no fault of their own, pending the decision of the crown. Lord iMont(agle afterwards declared, that on the very day when, through the change of min- istry, he (juitted the Colonial Ollice, he had a measure to submit to the cabinet, involving the surrender of the revenue point at issue. Sir Robert Peel on his accession to oHiee in 1H35, determined on sending a special eonimissiou to Canada, for the examination of existing grievances, and the adjustment of diflerenees, and he ofl'ered to yield the casual and ten itorial revenues, on condi- tion of a civil list being fixed for at least seven years. Refcre this arrangement was mntuied, Sir Robert Peei's administration was succeeded by that of lord Melbounie, who, adhering in some measure to the same plan, sent out the Earl of Gosford, Sir Charles Edward Grey, and Sir George Gipps, as commissioners. Lord Gosford to be governor in the room of Lord Aylmer. Lord Glenclg, then colonial secretary, expressed his readi- ness to 8un-ender the disjjosal of the entire revcmie to the Assembly, on the settlement of an independent provision for the judges, and the salaries of the ci^il officers being fixed for ten years. The whole proceeds of the sale of unclaimed lands were to be placed at the disposal of the Asscndjly, but govern- ment could not consent to part with the management of them, abolish the Land Company, or agree to the formation of an Elective Legislative Council. The non-inter- ference of the metropolitan power in the internal aft'airs of the colonies, was fiilly conceded in lord Glenclg's instructions to earl Gosford, in July, 183.5; and in a des- patch written in the same year to Sir F. Head, as lieutenant-governor of Upper Ca- nada, his lordship thus forcibly expresscM himself: " Purliameiitary legislation on any subject of exclusively internul concern, in any British colony, possessing a Representative Assembly, is, as a general rule, unconstitu- iijval. jt is a right of which the exercise is reserved for extreme cases, in which necessity at one: creates and Justijies the exception." Uespeeting the KleetiveCouneil,Lord(jllenelg stated to lilarl (io.sford and to Sir F. Head, " the king is nu)st unAvilling to admit as open to d('])atc the question, whether one of the vital ]>rinciples of the Provincial (iovernment shall mulergo alteration;" but his majesty woidd not absolutely close the avenue of the inquiry, even though "for the present he saw no reasonable gi-ound of doubt." Lord Glenelg by not more decidedly ex- pressing his opinion on this important point, left great latitude to liord Gosford, wbo though a good and amiable man, was (piite unfit for the dillicdt and res]Kmsibl(> )iO- sition in which he was placed. He is stated to have i'()(|uctted witli the leaders of the Assembly; invited them to his tiible; de- chired that " to be acceptable to the great l)()(ly of the people, was one of t\\v most essential eh^nients of fitness for jiublie sta- tion;" intimated his readiness to place the whole reveimes at tlie dis[)osal of the Assem- bly, on the conditions bi'fore mentioned; stated that iill grievances were to l>e re- dressed; that the commissioners were not iirne, same larles )8, as 'emor cnclfr, readi- cntirc cmcnt udges, beinjr ;e(l9 of placed ;ovem- ith the Land I of an n-inter- in tlie IS fully tions to 1 a dcs- ) Sir F. pper Ca- ;xprcsscn 1 on ami n, in anij o.sentative iconstitu- xercise is necessity vrciition." \ dOUniclf!; F. Head, admit as [>tl\i'r one Provineiid ion;" bnt close the li " for the n-oinid of [•idedly ex- , tant point, sford, wh^ , was (I'lite msible \'0- [Ic is stated dors of the table; de- o tl\e (Treat f tlie most public sta- o phice the 'the Assem- mentioned ; to be ve- rs were SEDITIOUS AND VIOLENT PROCEEDINGS OF BOTH PAIlTIES. not precluded from entering into an incpiiry on still praver matters; and, in sliort, led the French party to believe, that the Elective Legislative Council wonld be ultimately con- ceded. The party in the Legislative Council opposed to the Assembly, threw or.t menaces of rebellion, but the Assembly intimated that they would grant the three years' aiTears and a half year in advance. This amicable state of things was unfortunately of short continuance, being entirely changed when Sir F. Head, with more straightforward po- licy, made public in Upper Canada, where he was lieutenant-governor, the previously quoted passage from Lord Glenelg's instnic- tions, respecting the Elective Legislative Council, wliich Lord Gosford had withheld. M. Piipincau, and his supporters, declared themselves to have been wilfully misled; tlie Assembly refused to grant more tiian a half- year's suj)ply, clogged A\ith cond'tions. The Legislative Council, sure of support fi-om home, threw out the supply bill, and every other sent up to them, including that for the annual appro]iriation of funds devoted to national education in Lower Canada. Stimulated by popular addresses atul idtra democratic counsels, the Assembly passed the bounds of constitutional opp:isition ; the ! language of the majority became violent in . the extreme, fraught witii denunciations of; all Bntish rule, and accompanied by trea- sonable appeals to the inhabitants. On the Cth March, 1837, Lcu'd John Russell moved a series of resolutions, with the intention of bringing about a settlement, bnt the death of king "William IV. intervened before Par- liament had a:.ived at any derision; and as it was deemed inadvisable that tlie first measures of the government of our young queen sliould be in any degree coercive, the money for the paymeut of the eolouial civil servants was advanced from the liritisli ex- chequer, to be rejilaeed out of the Ul liJ,()()0 locked up in the Canadian cotters. In the mean ti.nc; jiublie meetings were held, and pie])arati()ns were evidently making to intimidate the (joverniueut. Lord Gos- ford called the House of Assemb'.y together oj 'e l.Sth of August, 1H;57; but, uufor- t . .. ly, the i)romiscd change in the Legis- lative and Executive Councils had not then been fulfilled ; the divisiou oa government questions M'cre in the ]U'oportions of 03 to 13, and an address of the most determined hostility was carried by Hi to 31. The leader;- ])re])ared for iusiirrectiou, and cited the example of the United States. County meetings were convened, and the language used by the leaders beir.g very violent, Lord Gosford dismissed 1 8 magistrates and 35 offi- cers of militia. The malcontents issued a proclamation, declaring that the " wicked designs of British authorities have severed all ties of feeling for an unfeeling mother country," and that the struggle was for a de- mocracy. Active irnining was going on in some districts, and the people elected their own magistrates and militia oflieers. The language of the press (^i both sides was almost equally ill-judged. A series of letters were published in the Montreal Herald, by Adam Thorn, A.M., entitled "Anti-Gallic, addressed to His Exeellency the Earl of Gosford, Go- vernor-in-Chief of the Canadas. — By Camil- lus." These letters were " reprinted for gratuitous distribution in the Ijower Prov- inces and in the United Kingdom." In them the whole French i)opulation of Canada are treated with sovereign contempt; and the language applied to them — that of " dastards, dupes, miserable wretches, tools, slaves, cowards, assassins, demagogues, trai- tors, and rebels," was circulated in every direction ; the governor-general, the secre- tary of state for the colonies, and even the sovereign, are spoken of in terms well cal- culated to diminish the force of all autho- rity ; and to induce even the French to believe, that the sooner such a government was subverted, the better for both the Eng- lish and French races. yVt ^Montreal a riot took place between the "sons of li1)erty" and a "loyal association" formed in op|)osition to them ; the fonner were defeated, and many of them wounded ; the ottice of the Vindicator (a Freuch news- naper) was destroyed, and the " loyalist:! " made a vigorous attem])t to burn the house of M. Papinean, the deiuocratie speaker of the House of Asseiubly. Exaggerated reports of tiiesc proceedings were spi'cad through the distant counties, and caused much .igi- tation. The Government issued warrants for tlie arrest of tweiify-six persons, inelud- ir.g M..M. I'apineau and Vigor, and five j other members of the legislature. But only nine of the warriints were executed; ^l. Papinean and others concealed themselves, or tied the country. Instead of sending an cdicient military force to aid the civil power in the exceution of the warrants, a party of 18 luoiiuted militia volunteers were sent into the centre of the most disturbed dis- tri'-ts, St. John's-on-thc-Riehclieu, to ett'ect the arrest of two ringleaders, which they ■ll ■m ^ m 28 THE REBELLION IN LOWER OR EASTERN CANx\DA, 1837 (lid ; but on rcturniiifi to Montreal, were intcrniptcd near Lonfiucuil by 300 well armed men, who opened a fire Irom l)eliind a high fence, and wounded several of the volunteer militia; the remainder fled, and the two prisoners were rescued. The villages of St. Denis and St. Charles were said to be the head-quarters of the rebels. Lieutenant-colonel Gore in i)ro- ceeding to St. Denis, was obliged to take a circuitous route, and arrived after a long march through a marshy and difficult country, where his men often found themselves knee- deep in mud. The rebels, who were postt'd in a large stone house at the entrance of the village, opened a fire on the British troops, who vainly attempted to batter down the house with round shot from a howitzer. Captain jVIarkham wa^ wounded while lead- ing the advance, and colonel Gore finding his ammunition failing, aiul his men over- powered with fatigue, having lost six killed, ten wounded, and six missing, left his can- non in the road, and retreated to Montreal. These two ill-conducted proceedings gave an iiufortunatc prestige to the commence- ment of the insurrection. If the leaders had been immediately arrested, and a sufK- cient force sent into the disturbed districts, which might easily (by reason of their lim- ited extent), have been accomplished, there would, probably liavc been no outbreak whatever. "While colonel Gore was at St. Denis, colonel Wctherall proceeded to the attack of the village of St. Charles; but being delayed by the badness of the roads, procured another company of regulars from Chambly, and on the Uiith proceeded to attack about 1,000 to 1,500 insurgents, protected by fortified houses and palisades. In an hour the troops were masters of the town, 3tK) of the insurgents were slain, the leaders fled to the United States, and colonel Gore, with a strong force, entered St. Denis unmolested. On the frontier of the United States ^00 "sympathizers" passed into Canada, but were spcecUly driven back by captani Kemp and the volunteers of Missisqui county; and in a fortnight tlr whole ol the six counties south of Montreal, ■which had ' vvn the chief scats of the rebellion, were restored to tranquiUity. Sir J. Col- bornc then proceeded to two districts north of Montreal, culled the " Two Mountains," and Terrebonne ; and on the Ikh of De- cember marched with 1,300 regulars and volunteers against the village of St. Eustaohe, where about 100 of the insurgents, under a leader named Girod, were strongly posted in a church and some neighbouring build- ings!. These buildings were fired, and the rebels driven out with great slaughter; the llritish losing only one man killed, and nine wounded. Girod committed suicide. Col oncl Maitland marched to St. Benoit, b village in the Grand Brule district, which was stated to be the foeus of insurrection ; but a deputation from the village met col- onel Maitland, and tendered submission. Thus terminated the rebellion of Lower Canada in 1837. Many of the loyal and respeetuble inhabitants, French atul Eng- lish, on refusing to join the rebels, had been obliged to fly the country, and, in several instauccs, the mob plundered their houses. On the return of the " loyalists" with the British troop.", tin y wreaked their vengeance on different villages, and many houses and much property belonging to innocent per- sons were destroyed. Attention must now be lirccted to Upper or Western Canada. Tlu " high tory and family comjjact part}-,''' had long ruled the colony, retaiiied auiong themselves the seats in the Legislative Council, and preserved a dominant influence in the House of As- sembly. Lord Sydenham remarked, that " members were everywhere chosen only with reference to the extent of jobbery for their particular district, which they could carry on. Whoever happens to le.id a party in the House of twelve or four- teen members, may at once obtair • ma- jority for his political views, by jobbing with other members for votes upon them, or by rejecting theu* jobs as the penalty of refussU oust them from their seats. This, indeed, is admitted by the best men of all parties, and especially of the popular side." A re- form party had been rising in Upper Canada, opposed to the exclusive privileges naturally preserved by the Bntish loyalists from the United States, who had settled in the colony after the War of Independence, and to whom the ci'own had, in return for theii" loyalty, granted varioi'.s favour's. The reformers were chiefly settlers of a recent dat'.', emi- grants from the United Kingdom, who, knowing the value of two legislative cham- bers, sought, not us the Lower Canadians did, to have two chambers elected by the people, but that the Legislative Council should be, in some degree, rendered respon- sible to, and work in harmony with, the Legislative Assembly. In the Upper as in the Lower pj'oviuce, the neglect of makiuij REHI^LTJON OP WRSTRtlN CANADA IN 1837. 29 josted bnild- id the r; the d nine Col loit, s which ection ; let col- nisaion. Lower val and id Eng- lad been 1 several houses, with the engeauce ^ uses and | cent per- to Upper tory and ruled the J the seats reser\'cd a ise of As- rkcd, that loscn only kf 3obbery I'hieh they lens to lead c or ';jur- itair ' ma- obbiug \vitb them, or by y of refusal 'bis, indeed, f all parties, de." A re- iser Canada, r^^s naturally \ j sts from the | , ai the colony \ and to whom i their loyalty, 10 reform'^rs \ ut dat'.;, emi- i u^doni, who, ..lativc cbam- ■ cr Canadians lectcd by the ativc Couiieil ulered respon- ony with, the e Upper as ui cct of makins; due and timely concessions to the* |iilbli(! feeling, caused extreme irritation, nnd whim those concessions were ultimati'ly iriiitlt', they were looked upon as granted from feur rather than from a sense of justice i iiiHtuml of giving satisfaction, they begat new (iiitl unreasonable demands, and the people wt'r(i easily led to believe by demagogues, iii' en- thusiasts, that anything might lie olituiiicd by agitation. The stoppage of the supplies by tlio As- sembly of East Canada in 18!}!!, the nmn- ner in which the proceeding wn» viewiMl lit home, and the ascendancy of the rt'foriii radical party in 1834, led to the adoption of a similar measiire in West (^iniida in IKitCi, and great exasperation was the remill, A small party, headed by nn unprim'i|'li'(l demagogue, named Mackenzie, avowed tlicii' desire of separating West Ciiiiuda fl'oiti Great Britain, and joining it to the UllitMd States. In 1836 Sir Francis Ilend, then one of the poor-law commissioners in Eii^lui)d, wiw selected by lord Gleiuilg for the goMTiiiiuMlt of Upper Canada. Possessed of eonnidi'i'iililn iutclieetual power, much forei; of ehaructct', strong national feelings, and great eoiti= maud of language. Sir I'Vimeis tlii'ew biiiincll' on the people, appealed to their good isciix', stated fully his instructions (Voiu the min- ister of the crown, appointed three popuhil' members to the executive council, uiid pro- inised practical and immediiite redrcsn of nil real grievances. The people of West Cii- nada almost uiuiuimoiisly responded to tliti appeal, and when he dissolved the Ansenilily in Alay, 1837, the majority of thono re- turned were decidedly favourable to eonstU tutional government. In order to nmiiil'cut confidence in the people, Sir F. lleud W(t>» desirous that every soldier of the troop* (if tiic hue sliould be removed from he |ii'o= vince, and when a recpiisition hus nntde from tlie Lower province, to know liow many soldiers he could spare, his (lUBWct' was, " all." Tlie lieutenant-governor Nccnii, however, to have allowed his generon>* i ii= thusiasm to carry him beyond the liouiniri of prudence, when he euuscd the piihlie iinus to be deposited in the town-luill of Toronto, »uiu:t charge of the uniyor, with- out any guard t(,r their protection i itnd lliix oneoui-agcd Mackenzie to collect .OlM) or 'ttlO desperadoes on tlie 1th December, IH!17, lor a night, or morning attack on 'IVu'onto, no as to surprise the city. The reheU H»«ent- i)lcd about four miles from Toronto, tit El | subluitteil,' and 300 laid dovra their arms, tnvcrii, and endeavoured to arrest all on their wny to the city, to prevent their intended itNNnnIt from being made known. A distin- (jtliKJied odicer, colonel Moodie, while passing tlif) tnveni was wounded by the rebels, and (lied ill a few days. They also attempted to »U'i/.(i alderman Powell, but after shooting one of the rebels he escaped to Toronto. Kiivn tlio alarm, and awoke the lieutenant- (tuvenifir, who, on arriving at the town-hall, Ibniiil the chief justice with a musket on his KJiouhler, surrounded by several other brave itieii remly armed, to resist any attack. Mnrkni/ic's numbers were, as usual, greatly miiKiiilted ; some stated that 3000, others that 5000 were advancing, and aecord- itl(fly Sir Francis Head, and the citizens, poitcd themselves in the Town-hall, awaiting llie morning's dawn. Mackenzie, fearing thiit iilderman Po'icll would alarm the city, did not advance. On the Sth of December, IIOO joynlists were mustered; lieutenant- eolonel Allan M'Nab arrived with 00 men iVmn the Gore district; by evening there were 500 armed volunteers assembled, and the tnilitia were summoned from all parts of the country. On the fith the lieuteuant- ifovenior sent to the rebels, urging them to liiy down their arms, and thus prevent the elhision of blood. Mackenzie said he would only do so on condition of a " National ('(Hivention" being called, to which he ro- ijuired ihe assent of the lieutenant-governor liehin" two o'clock on the ensuing day. On tlie 7th, the lieutenant-governor and the ni'ined vnlnuteers of Toronto, headed by lieiitninnt-eolonel A. M'Nab and Mr. Jus- lice INPLean, the speaker of the House of A«i>eiiiblv, and his predecessor, whose clerk ullleiiiteit OS adjutant-general, marched tiKaiiist the rebels, who had taken their stand on an elevated position near the (iiverti. They were soon routed, several were killed ; Mackenzie was the first to ■ve trade, and I'.l measures ' - >.l ■> il'.: strious and lamented fatlier, in 'vnich Jiis ;■'. » ^l Hii;|jness was pleased to express his aj-probatx ;* -.i' ;i similar plan then pro|)Osed by that gentleman. S" «jr3 butter uiiHei mtmil the intereatii and character oj >J,,se Colimies th'in hl» lloijal lllyh- niss; and it is with peculiar satisfaction, therefore. that I submit to Your Majesty's perusal the iiiiporfant document which contains his Royal Ilighnets'a opinion in favour of such a scheme: — ' Kensin'jton Palace, 30 A'bf. 1814. ' Mt dear SewklI, ' I have this day had the pleasure of receiving your note of yesterday, with its interesting enclosure: nothing can be better arranged than the wht Coiiiu'IIn fi«(|iilslti', 1 pre- sume there cannot be a ipiollon of llie exiiediency of comnrehending the two >inii>ll UJnnds III the Gulf of St. Lawrence with Nova Hmillii, ' Believe me ever to iviiiuin, witji tliP mimt friuiullv regard, ' My dear Sewell, yoiim fiililifully, (HIgiieil) ' KiiWAUl).' ' Lord Durham recoiniiH'ndcd that a gene- ral executive im nil iiiipi'nvcd jinncipli' should be eHtablinlicd, togdtlier nidi a sii- prcinc court of appi'iil for ail the North Araeriean eolonie* i that tlid TiCgisliitive Council be n^viwil by I'arllaineiit, so tin to secure not only itn clleclivii working, hut it* acting as a UNcfiil elmek on the popiiJiir branch of the legiHlutiu'e, iiiiil tliim iirevent a repetition of tliONU enlii^ioim which hnd already cniised mieli diiiigcnnin excitement. Whether the govenior.geiienirs ideas were favourable to an KIcetivc l(egi«liitivio mipimrt from home in ttinj niiilinl vltli Ihr /i//iii/iiliirr, except on jjuinlii liii'iilvinn Htric/li/' imjirriiil interests." The governor-gencriil ri/thtly advocated the cstablishiiieiit of the iiiiii'iii'iidencc of the judges, i)v giving tliciii the mmie tenure of ofHec and security of li:eiiiiie its that enjoyed in Engliind; lulviNeij tlint nil the rerviniv's of the crown, except tliONn derived from the sale of crown laiiilN (which he winhcd confided to imperial aiithoi'ily for th(- pnmiotion of emigration), should at oiiei- lie given up to the united legixliitiii'e, on the eoiicession of an a(U'quate civil lint, iind that no money votes shoiild be allowed to originate without the previous coimciit of the crown; the governor-general aUo miggcHted that the Act of Union Nhoiild repeal past provisions with respect to I he clergy reserves, and define the applieiition of the funds arising as a "But. the iind 1).V wl these I'ortioi lionoui scpai-f (/Illy in \vhi( unfit the ft, -ion, bring ; I'cace, I lute that voluntii I'ciiiaiiK •■ind ng !' " t a itrnr- , |iriiiripl>' illi a n\\- !„• North iC^iolative ! ;, KO nx ttl m, Init itH (• poitiilnr iiK pri'vciit *.|iicU liml xcitcmcnt. | idcaw wore ; vntJomu'il, \ lit that lie I iiintitutioii. (TUtivC V ll*" 1, M-lio roll- j (•(•r» of tlic I I Htivfof tho I rcHiioiiHihle ic noviTiior Inrry on liis iitiiifiit«, iu niiilidcii''*'. Ill////'"'/ ,/Vo/« IttiiHliitiire, \lhj iwiirriat |(U ocatrd tho •iit'o of tho IC tenure of tliiit enjoyed \r rcirniicn of n\ from the (lied eoidided iivoniotioii of ^iveii np to > kiiieession of jit no money liniitc without crown ; the tml that the [nst provisions renerves, and Ifiiiuls arisint? UNION RECOMMLNDED BY LORD DURHAM. 33 therefrom. Tin- neccKsity of loeal ^tovernment by elective 1, lies was not overlooked hy liim, and the advantaj^es of a larfrc and henc-fieent system of emijjration for the re- lief of the mother eomitry, as well lu for the beni^fit of the colonies, was powerfully urged: Lord Durham said, " I sec no reason for ' doubting tliat hy good government, and the adoption of a sound system of colonization, the British possessions in North America may ho made the means nf conferring < the sulfrring classes of the motlu r count many of the blessings which have hithe,' been supposed to be peculiar to the soe state of the new world." The cstablishmei of u steam-packet communication betwcei. Halifax and England was stnmgly advo- cated by the governor-general, and also the formation of a railroad from Halifax to Quebec. To the assertions made that it was probable a colonial legislature thus strong and self-governing would desire to abrndon the connection with Great Britain, the noble carl replied, that, on the contrary, ho believed that tlic cessation on our part from undue intei-fercncc, would strengthen the pre- sent bond of feelings and interests, and that the connection woidd only become more dur- able and advantageous, by having more of equality, of freedom, and of local indepen- dence. He looked to the inereascd power and weight that would l)c given to the ("anadas by imion, af the onh/ means of fostering such a nationr.1 feeling throughout them, as would cil'cctually counterbalance whatever tenden- cies may now exist towards separation ; and as a true lover of freedom, he nobly added — " But, at any rate, our first duty is to secure the well-being of our colonial countrymen ; ! and if iu the hidden decrees of that wisdom by which the world is ruled, it is written that these countries are not for ever to remain j)ortions of the empire, we owe it to our honour to take good care that when they sci)ai'atc from us, they should not be the only countries on the American continent in which the Anglo-Saxon race shall be found unfit to govern itself." "While engaged in the fulfilment of his highly imiiortant mis- sion, the governor-general, with a view to bring about an amnesty and restore internal l)eaee, offered to si-veral of the leiulers in tlie liite rebellion, charged with high treason, tiiat if they made a confession of guilt, voluntarily di'ported themselves to Heriuuda, lemaiiied there nndcr strict surveillance, ;iiid agreed not to return to Canada, they sliouUl not be put on their trial, for which I vol.. I indei'd it would have been dillieult to obtain an impartial jury. The prisoners, includ- ing Wolfred Nelson, Bonchette, Gativin, Vigor, and others, then lying in the jail of Montreal, accepted these conditions, and 'Igned a paper, promising to abide by them. Papineau, C6te, {Jaguon, and several others implicated in the late rebellion, had left the coil try. The conduct of Lord Durham in this matter created mueh excitement iu the If' •<(■ f Lords, and was used as a wea- ' party politics by the opponents of f\isting administration. Lord icwing the subject as a lawyer, bill into the House of Lords, .red the ordinance passed by Lord i. (11 1. .Ill .ud his Council, viz., 2 Vic. c. 1, entitled, an " ordinance to provide for the security of the ])ri)vincc of Canada" illegal, because it adjiidgid men wortliy of death without a trial, and sentenced tliein to trans- portation to a colony beyond the jurisdiction of the governor-general. Lord Melbourne, then prime minister, opposed the passing of this bill, but her majesty's government was defeated by a majority iu the House of Lords. The ordinance was annulled, and an Act of Indemnity for Lord Durham and his Council was passed. Her majesty's govern- ment, in transmitting the anuounccinent of these proceedings to the governor-general, accompanied it by strong expressions of general approbation and unaltered confi- dence in the administration of his lordship. Ijord Durham, who had previously received despatches, formally conveying to him as- surances of the satist'action which all bis measures, iiictudhiff the urdinnncc and pro- chiinat'ton rvlntiity to the political prisoners, had i/iii I to her majesty' s government, com- plained Ijitterly of these proceedings; asserted the legality of the ordinance ; and declared with a degree of asperity which the circum- stances of the ease excuse, though they may not be deeuu l a sufKcicnl justification: — that the ordinance of the special Council for sending the prisoners to Mermuda, and the proclamation of amnesty issued on the day of the coronation of her majesty, were parts of the same measure, and were dividcul solely for the jairptne of imjiosing on the govt'rnor-gcueral and his Council all that recpiired legishiviou and was of a penal nature, and of making all that ])artook of mercy and kindness the act of the ((iicen; that eonsequciitiy the disallowance of the ordinance had rcndercil null all the repres- sive portion of his policy, and that the urd- p IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^ 1.0 ^«^ i 116 131 ,u„, I.I 2.5 1^ t 1^ 2.2 2.0 1.8 L25 1 '-^ III '-^ ^ 6" ► P^J vl >> " ^. 'y *.^ ^ / %^^> .^ ^1 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WGST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 34 REBELLION AND INVASION IN 1838 Ol- E. AND W. CANADA. versal proclamation of amnesty, limited by no exceptions save those now invalidated, placed the leaders of the rebellion precisely in the same position which they occupied be- fore their unsuccessful attempt. Under these adverse and discouraging circumstances, the governor-general did not consider that he could usefully remain longer in Canada, — he felt that his authority was weakened — that both the act of indemnity and the annulling of the ordinance were rebukes which would damage his future administra- tion, and he deemed it due to his character to return to England at once, especially as lieutenant-general Sir John Colbome, his predecessor, was still in the province as commander of the forces, and no injury whatever could accrue to the public service by the resignation of the governor-general and his departure for England. The noble earl never recovered the shock which he sustained by these proceedings in Canada, and he died in England, 28th July, 1840. I may perhaps be excused for inserting here the following remarks, written at the period of his death, when examining the public proceedings of one of the best friends of the colonies, and most earnest promoters of colonization, which this century has pro- duced — to whose liberality England mamly owes our present possession of New Zea- land: — " By birth and inclination Lord Durham was one of the earliest advocates of political and popular reform, and to his credit be it said, he was ever foremost to aid the cause of the oppressed. At a period when few men stood forward to oppose the encroach- ments of ministerial power. Lord Durham was always the stanch opponent of oppres- sion, whether individual or national. En- dowed with a generous disposition, he was prompt to relieve distress, and unhesita- tingly spent his wealth on objects whicli he thought conducive to the good of his country. There wa-s no niggard or parsi- monious spirit in his proceedings, whenever it could be proved that money or encrgj' could advance the cause he took in hand ; and an unsullied integrity, and a lofty pa- triotism, were among the distinguishing characteristics of this lamented nobleman." The departure of Lord Durham, the know- ledge of his first act having been disallowed at home, and probably an artful misrepre- sentation to the Canadian people, of the reasons which led to his retirement, induced the malcontents to endeavour to cfl'eet a general rising in the counties of Montreil on the 3rd of November; but the attempt failed; except at Napierville, where about 4000 were collected under three rebel leaders, named Dr. Robert Nelson, Cfite, and Gagnon, who detached 400 men to the frontier, to open a communication with the "sympathisers" in the United States. A body of British volunteers near the frontier, attacked and defeated the rebels; Dr. Nelson marched with 900 men to aid his colleagues, but the British volunteers posted at Odell Town chapel, to the number of 200, checked his advance, and after an action of two hours and a half, the rebels retreated with the loss of 100 men in killed and woimded; the loyalists had 1 officer and 5 men killed, and 9 wounded. Major-general Sir James M'Donnell, with seven regiments of the line, marched on Napierville; the enemy dispersed without firing a shot; but subsequently made a stand at Beauhamois, from which they were driven by a detachment composed of 1000 men of the regular troops and Glengarry fencibles, with the loss of two killed and two wounded. Within one week (on the 11th of Novem- ber) major-general M'Donnell announced the restoration of tranquillity in the Lower province, la the Upper province Sir Francis Head resigned the office of lieutenant- governor, in consequence of Lord Glenelg's disapprobation of his removal of Judge Ri doubt from the bench, on account of the expression of democratic principles, and of his declining to raise to the bench Mr. Bid- well, late speaker of the House of Assembly, and a leader of the opposition. The retire- ment of Sir F. Head was much regretted in Canada: he was succeeded by Sir George Arthur, who had acquired considerable ex- perience as chief superintendent in Hon- duras, and as governor of Van Diemen's Island, and whose steady and consistent conduct, excellent business habits, and conciliatory manners, had acquired for him in each position, the esteem of the people, and the approbation of the home autho- rities. In the beginning of June more than 1000 American plimderers and bandits crossed into Upper Canada, attacked a party of 14 lancers, and compelled their surrender, setting on fire an inn which sheltered them; the whole countty rose, and on the advance of the British the invaders re- crossed the frontier. At the end of June another hand passed the St, Clair and if MontrcJ the attempt here about three rebel ^ m, C6te, and men to the on with the 1 States. A the frontier, i; Dr. Nelson is colleagues, ted at Odell 200, checked Etion of two etreated with md wounded; 5 men killed, 'Donnell, with , marched on crsed without ? made a stand ley were driven ' 1000 men of »arry fencibles, i two wounded. 1th of Novem- lell announced jr in the Lower ince Sir Francis of lieutenant- I 1 Lord Glenelg's al of Judge Ri 1 ' account of the inciplea, and of ■ bench Mr. Bid- ise of Assembly, jn. The retire- ich regretted in by Sir George considerable ex- 1 mdcnt in Hon- i Van Diemen's and consistent hss habits, and Required for him m of the people, lie homo autho- more than 1000 bandits crossed cd a party of 14 their surrender, which sheltered rose, and on the the invaders re- the end of June St. Clair and PARTIAL EXTENT OP THE INSURRECTION. 35 entered the Western district, but finding the people opposed, and the militia advancing, Aey fled. In November, when the insur- rection occurred in the Lower province, 400 of the American brigands landed at Prcscott, and were dispersed by colonel Young and captain Sandom, R.N., but some took rcAige in a windmill, a strong stone house with walls three feet thick. Eighteen of the British were killed and wounded in at- tempting to carry the place, and it was not until cannon and additional troops arrived that the enemy, to the number of 159, surrendered at discretion. On the 4th of December between 300 and 400 of those marauders, having been organized at De- troit, crossed over into Canada near the town of Sandwich, burnt a steamer, and murdered several of the British subjects in cold blood. A party of militia arrived, and they retreated with the loss of 26 killed and 25 prisoners. It now became evident that the govern- ment of the United States was totally unable to prevent its citizens making these cruel and cowardly attacks on the subjects of a state with whom it professed to be at peace; the Americans taken prisoners had hereto- fore been treated with mistaken lenity : but Sir George Arthur, in accordance ■^vith the wishes of the province, treated the marauders as a shepherd would treat wolves. Several of the Americans were tried by court-martial and hanged, and others were transported to Australia or imprisoned. The American government left them to their fate. Thus ended a state of disturbance in Canada, which excited much anxiety in Eng- land, where all the proceedings were greatly magnified, and which has throAVU back the province a full quarter of a century by the alarm created, and the consequent driving of capital and industry from the country. It should, however, be remembered, that the robellibn in East Canada was the work of a few individuals, and, probably, was not supported by ten thousand persons out of a population of half a million. The Roman Catholic bishop of Montreal issued and published an address to his flock, which had a powerful effect in preventing the spread of rebellion. Lieutenant-general Sir John Colbome, the commander-in-chief, thus de- scribes the conduct of the Catholic clergy during this important period, in a despatch to tlie secretary of state, dated 8th June, 1839, — " The ve are few instances in the parislies which have been agitated in wliich a want of loyalty has been shown by the priests; indeed, it cannot be denied that they have, with two or three exceptions, acted with great firmness, and have exerted their influence in favour of the government. The field oflScers of the militia, with few exceptions, are also loyal subjects, and, in- deed, many of the officers of militia." The leaders of the insurrection, in both Eastern and Western Caaada, partook more of the character and doctrines of the " Red Republicans" and " Socialists," for which France has been unhappily distinguished in 1849, than those of men struggling for con- stitutional freedom. An association termed the " Sons of Liberty," paraded the streets of Montreal in a threatening manner, in- citing the young and ignorant to join them; declaring that " a glorious destiny awaits the young men of these colonics; to dis- franchise our beloved country from all human authority, except that of the bold democracy within its bosom." The ignorant country people had, for several years, been drugged with such doctrines; and hopes had been held out by some of the leaders, of the abolition of the feudal system. It will be necessary to dwell at some length on the subsequent events in the history of Canada, and on the policy then pursued imder the guidance of Lord John Russell as her majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies; because it involves the working of the principle of " responsible government," then, for the first time, eft'ee- tually carried out in the administration of that colony, and which is now in the course of application to other dependencies of the British empire. The imperial government, on mature deliberation, adopted the recom- mendation c jntained iu Lord Durham's report for a reunion of West and East Canada into Ciie province, and in 1839 a bill was introduced into the House of Commons for the accomplishment of this object. Mr. Pitt's -views in dividing the provinces in 1791 had evidently failed; or the increase of a British population in Western Canada, and the state of allairs iu Eastern Canada rendered it no longer advantageous, or even pt " 'e, to maintain the disunion. There was also a strong reason for the union, with regard to West Canada; — ^its annual revenue was largely pledged for the payment of pub- lic debts incurred for the improvement of the province by the construction of canals and other public works. Canals had been undertaken for the conveyance of produce, 36 , Mit. C. P. THOMSON APPOINTED GOVERNOR-GENERAL. which maintained a great extent of water com- munication uninterrupted; the Welland canal obviated the interruption caused by the falls of Niagara, and the Cornwall canal avoided the rapids in the river St. Lawrence, between Kingston in Western Canada and Montreal in Lower or Eastern Canada. To carry out its public works the colonial debt had, from year to year been increased; and in 1839 the charge for the annual interest of debt was j665,00O; while the whole yearly revenue of Western Canada was only Jb78,0OO, which could not be increased by Customs duties, as the seaport of Quebec was in the East province. Western Canada was therefore on the eve of bankruptcy. On this and other points it was found that her majesty's gov- ernment required full information, which could only be obtained on the spot from a man of unprejudiced views, practically ac- quainted with commerce and finance; and possessed of the confidence of her majesty's ministers. Their choice devolved on Mr. Charles Poulett Thomson, then President of the Board of Trade, who was ofiered either the Choncclloi-ship of the Exchequer, or the government of Canada. Mr. Thomson de- cided on the latter, partly on accoimt of his health, which he deemed unequal to the onerous duties of the former, and partly be- cause he considered Canada the finest field of exertion, and likely to afibrd him great power of doing good to his fellow-creatures. The antecedents of Mr. Thomson's life had well fitted him for the high office he undsrtook to fill. Descended from one of the oldest and most respected merchants in the city of London, whose firm (Thomson, Bonar, and Co.) had for several generations been en- gaged in the Russian trade, Mr. Thomson had been early initiated into the habits of commercial life. At 16 years of age, his father, Mr. John Poulett Thomson, sent him to St. Petersburg, to commence businesj .it the branch house there, then under the man- agement of an elder brother, Mr. Andrew Thomson. In 1817, after two years' resi- dence in the Russian capital, Mr. C. P. Thomson's health, at all times very delicate, obliged liis return to England, and his win- tering in Italy. From 1817 to 1821 his time was passed partly at the counting-house in London, and partly in travelling on the continent: and from 1821 to 1824 in the counting-house at St. Petersburg, and in visiting Russia, Ger- many, &c. On the death of his father in May, 1824, Mr. C. P. Thomson returned to England, joined the London firm as a part- ner, and entered into the active life of a London merchant. He became a director of several public companies, and was actively instrumental as suen in the Provincial Bank of Ireland (founded in 1824 by Mr. Medley), where he acquired valuable information con- nected with banking and financial details. A great truth once sent forth on the wings of public opinion is sure sooner or later t» operate for good, and the efforts of Mr. Thomson on the important subject of our revenue and fiscal system led the way and suggested the mode of remodelling entirely the prohibitive and protective system on which our commercial as well as financial code was then construoted. On the death of Mr. Huskisson in 1830, Mr. Thomson was chosen by his party (the Whigs) to carry out the views of tliat great statesman; and for this high task he was well fitted, by previous study and practical experi- ence — by great moral courage — remarkable industry — and a deep sense of responsibility. Tlie retirement of the administration of the Duke of Wellington in 1830, and the forma^ tion of a cabinet by Earl Grey, led to Mr.' Thomson's appointment as Vice-President of tlie Board of Trade and Treasurer of the Navy, and at the end of the same year Mr. Thomson finally withdrew from the commercial firm of Thomson, Bonar, and Co. It is not requisite to enter here into an examination of his career as Vice, and subsequently as President of the Board of Trade; suffice it to say, that in conjunction with the 1" '''mented Lord Al thorp, then chancellor c exchequer, he carried out various us ^ts. In 1826, Ml. Thomson was returned to parliament as member for Dover, and judi- ciously remained silent for nearly two ses- sions, watching the progress of events. In 1828, he made a few pithy speeches, rightly judging, as he expressed it in a letter to his "brother George, of 28th February, 1828, that " a man who tells the House facts with which the majority are unacquainted, is sure to be listened to. His speeches on the shipping interest, 7th May, 1827 ; on the usury laws, 20th May; on Scotch and Irish banking, 18th June ; on reducing the duty on Indian silk goods to a minimum duty of 30 per cent., IGth Jidy, 1828; and on the silk trade, 14th April, 1829, all told upon the house, and gained for Mr. Thomson that which is seldom acquired — a parliamentary commercial reputation. On the 25th March, ■ rlfeiit:. M a part- I life of a director of a actively acitkl Bank p. Medley), nation con- ;ial details. I the wings or later to rts of Mr. iject of our le way an* ing entirely system on as financial son in 1830, is party (the )f that great k he was well ictical experi- — remarkable responsibility, tration of the nd the forman ;y, led to Mr. Vice-President •easurer of the he same year rew from the 1, Bonar, and Qter here into r as Vice, and ' the Board of in conjunction Althorp, then he carried out aa returned to over, and judi- aearly two ses- of events. In )eeche8, rightly ,1 a letter to his uary, 1828, that facts ^t^ ^^^^^ ;d, ii sure to be jn the shipping the usury laws, Irish banking, duty on Indian [duty of 80 i;er id on the sUk told upon the , Thomson that i-a parliamentary the 25th March, POLICE OP Mtt. C. P. THOMSON ON THE UNION. 87 1830, Mr. Thomson delivered a remarkable speech on the general taxation of the empire, a speech replete with facts, then moat dif- ficult of attainment, and enunciating sound views of financial economy. Looking at our present comparatively simple fiscal system, it is difBcult to conceive anything more absurd, more onerous, more injurious to trade or industry, than the revenue sys- tem of Great Britain in 1830; and much credit is due to Mr. Thomson for his ex- posure of many errors in the policy then pursued.* In 1839, Mr. Thomson's health became much impaired by constant labour and mental anxiety acting on a naturally feeble constitution ; added to which, his position as member for Manchester from 1832, must have increased considerably the duties of his public life. By patient toil and judicious conduct, without aristocratic connections, he had worked out for himself the high position of a cabinet minister, and on the elevation of Mr. Spring Bice to the peerage, the great object of his ambition, namely, the position of Chancellor of the Exchequer, was offered for his acceptance; foi-tunately for our colonies, he preferred the appoint- ment of " Governor-General of British North America, and Captain-General and Gover- uor-in-Chief in and over the Provinces of Lower Canada and Upper Canada, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the island of Prince Edward, and Vice-Admiral of the same." On 80th August, 1839, and on his fortieth birth-day, Mr. Thomson sailed in the Pique frigate u-om England, arrived at Quebec, received public addresses, and on 22nd Oc- tober proceeded to Montreal. Great excite- ment and discontent prevailed in both pro- vinces. The British and French Canadians in East Canada, who had taken no part in the recent rebellion, were naturally anxious for the restoration of constitutional govern- ment, the misled French Canadians who had been induced to join in the insane at- tempt at rebellioD, were kept in constant agitation by their leaders; and in the Western province, which the new governor-general visited in November, he found the people in the state thus described by the lieutenant- governor, Sir George Arthur, in his despatch, dated the 22nd September, 1839. "All the wicked heads on both sides are con- stantly at work plotting mischief; and many • See the " Taxation of the British Empire," by R. M. Martin. inconsiderate persons by the course they are now pursuing at the 'responsible govern- ment' meetings, promote the designs of the most criminal characters. The foundations of civil order were broken up by the occur- rences of the year 1837, and general mistrust and bad feeling open out a way for the dis- play of the worst passions of the worst men, of which they seem keenly disposed to aval* themselves." The position of the government was theie- fore very critical; the "family compact men" viewed Mr. Thomson with suspicion, and there was no settled party on whom he could rely for aid in his administration. His strong powers of perception speedily enabled the governor-general to appreciate the true state of the Canadas, both as regarded their internal government, and their position with respect to the United States, He concurred with Lord Durham in considering that the salvation of the provinces as dependencies of the British crown, and their future peace and prosperity, depended on their being re- united on the broad basis of justice to all. He also adopted Lord Durham's view of the necessity of making the Executive Council harmonise with the House of Assembly, by rendering the higher officers of the ex- ecutive government dependent as in Eng- land on the majority in the House of Representatives, thus giving the people not only a general control over their own af- fairs, but affording them the means of de- claring in whom they placed confidence for their administration. The course adopted by the governor-general was in unison with his manly character; he convened the Special Council of the Eastern pro- vince, which had been appointed by his predecessor on the suspension of the consti- tution; abstained from adding a single name to the council, in order to avoid imputations, and to give due weight to its decisions in England, and laid before them certain reso- lutions as the basis of union; namely, that a civil list should be granted by the crown that the debt of Western Canada, should bcs borne by the united province; and that the details of the Union Bill should be settled by the imperial legislature. These resolu- tions were adopted by a majority of 12 to 3, after several days' discussion, in October, 1839, and the governor-general then pro- ceeded to Toronto, in the Western province, and on the 3rd December, 1839, convened the Parliament which had been elected in 1 836, under the administration of Sir F. B. 38 TTNION OF Tim i:\8T AND WEST PROVINCES ADOPTED. Head. Prcvioua to moptins liii pnrlintnent, the govcrnorrvM, rvvviim hia nrdvnt from the Crown of lingland. Hut can the colimial council be the ad- vUvra of the Crown of Kngland P Kvidentiv not, for the Crown liaa other adviaon, for the aame ranctioni, and with auperior authority. " It may niipixin, tlicrel'ore, that the Governor re- coIvDi at one and tiio itamo time Inntructionn from the Queen, and advice from hit oxocutivo council, totally at varlanoa with each other. If ho is to obey his inatniotlona from Knxhind, the parallel of conatitu- 'ional reaponaihility entirely failfi ; if, on tluj other Imnd, he M to follow the ae peti- tion for a responsible executive first arose — I mean Lower Cutuida. " During the time when a large majority of the assembly of Lower Canada, followed M. I'apineau as their leader, it «os obviously tlie aim of that gentle- man to discourage all who did their duty to the Crown within the ])rovincc, and to deter all who should resort to Canada with British habits and feel- ing* ft-om without. I need not say that it would have been im|inssible for any minister to support, in the Parliament of the United Kingdom, the measures which a ministr)', liended by M. Popineau, would have imposed upon the Governor of Lower Canada ; British officers punished for doing their duty ; Bri- tish emigrants (lef^auded of their property j British merchimta discouraged in their lawful pursuits, — would have loudly appealed to Parliament against the Canadian ministry, and would have demanded prntection, " I.et us suppose the Assembly as then constituted, to have been sitting when Cir John Colbornc sus- ))ended two of the Judges, Would any councillor, {K)B«essing the confidence of the Assembly, have made dniself reR|)onsible for the act:* And yet the very safety of the province depended on ita adoption. Nay, the yen orders of which your Excellency is Jourself the nearer, respecting Mcssi-s. Bedard and 'anet, would never be adopted, or put in execution by a ministry depending for existence on a majority led Ity M. Paplnenu. " Nor can any one fake upon Iiimsclf^ to_ say thot such coses will not again occur. The principle once sanctioned, no one can say how soon its ap|)1ication luittht be dangerous, or even dishonourable, while nil will ogree thot to recall the power thus conceded would^ie im|M)ssiblc. " While I thus tiev Insuperable objections to the doptinn of the princijile ns it hns been stated, 1 see little or tione to the uractical views of colonial govern- ment rccummcnded oy Lord Durham, as I uuderslaml { them. The Queen's Government have no desire to thwart the renresentative assemblies of British North America in tneir measures nt' reform and improve- ment. They have no wish to make those provinces the resource for patronage at home. They are ear- nestly intent on giving to tho talent and character of leading persons m the colonies, advantages similar to those which talent and character, employed in the cublic service, obtain, in the United Kingdom. Her Majesty has no desire to main^in any system of policy among her North American subjccta which opinion condemns. In receiving the Queen's com- mands, therefore, to protest agamat any declaration at variance with tlie nonour of the Crown, and tlie unity of the empire, I am at the same time instructed to announce Uer Majesty's gracious intention to look to the affectionate attachment of her people in North America, as the best security for permanent dominion. " It is necessary for this purpose that no official misconduct should be screened by Her Majesty's re- |ii'cscntative in the provinces; and that no private interests should be allotted to compete f ith the general good. " Your Excellency is fully in possession of the principles which have guided Her Majesty's advisers on this subject ; and you must be aware tnftt there is no surer way of earning the approbation of the Quen, than by maintaining the harmony of the execu- tive with the legislative authorities. " While I have thus cautioned you against any declaration from which dangerous consequences might hereafter flow, and instructed you as to the general line of your conduct, it may be said that 1 nave not drawn any specific line beyond which the power of the Governor on the one hand, and the pri- vileges of the Assembly on the other, ought not to extend. But this must be the case in any mixed government. Every political constitution in which different bodies share the supreme power, is only enabled to exist by the forbearance of those amon^; whom this power is distributed. In this respect the examjiie of England may well be imitated. The sovereign using the prerogative of the Crown to the utmost extent, and the House of Commons exerting its power of the purse, to carry all its resolutions into immediate effect, would procluce confusion in the country in less than a twelvemonth. So in a colony: the Governor thwarting every legitimate proposition of the Assembly; and the Assembly continually recurring to its power of refusing sujiplies, can but disturb all political relations, embarrass trode, ond retard the prosperity of the people. Each must exercise a wise moderation. The Governor must only oppose the wishes of tlie Assembly where the honour of the Crown, or the interests of the empire are deeply concerned ; and the Assembly must lie ready to modify some of ita measures for the sake of harmony, and from a reverent attachment to the authority of Great liritain. " I hove, &c., J. RussElJ.." Lord Sydenham, when announcing the union, issued a spirited proclaniation, and appealed to the good feelings and interests ot' the Canadians to render the union pro- ductive of the advantages which it was the desire of the queen and of her majesty's government it should confer. The governor-general summoned the osire to I North Tiprote- rovinces are ear- ractcr ol I BiniUar ed in the m. Her ystem ol U which gn'a com- eclaration I, and the instructed on to look B in North , dominion, no official iajesty's re- no private B yith the «ion of the ty's advisers thit there b ition of the of the execu- B gainst any consequcncua ,ou as to the ae said that 1 ,nd which the I, and the pri- ought not to in any mixed tion in which lower, is only r those among lis respect the mitated. The ; Crown to the mons exerting ■esolutions into ifusion in the ^o in a colony, ate proposition ,ly continually jipliea, can but iass trade, and Each must lovernor must ibly where the , of the empire ;mbly must lie for the sake of •hment to the TlUSSKM.. lounciiig tlic amation, and and interests le union pro- ih it wa* ^^^ Iher majesty's ? THE REUNION.— DEATH OP LORD SYDENHAM. 41 nr.moued united lesislature to meet him at Kingston on 13th June, 1841 ; violent party stnife or rather contests of race took place at the elec- tions in which the goTernor-general ab- stained irom interfering, except to maintain order and toprotect the firee exercise of the franchise. Tne composition of the House of Assembly when it met was said to be : government members 24, French members 20, moderate reformers, 20, ultra reformers 5, " family compact " 7, doubtfid 6, special return 1, double ditto 1; total 84. The governor-general opened the session in a speech of much moderation, advised conci- liation, announced that Great Britain had agreed to pledge its credit for a loan of £1,500,000 to complete the public works, that assistance would be affordied by the home government to convey destitute emigrants from the port of embarkation to the place where their labour might be required ; de- clared, in reference to M'Leod and the United States, " her majesty's fixed determi- nation to protect, with the whole might of her power all her Canadian subjects ; pointed out the necessity of establishing throughout the province a system of self-government such as had already been established in East Canada; the establishment of a com- prehensive and efBcient system of education, and concluded with a prayer that, " imder the blessing of that Providence which had hitherto preserved this portion of the Bri- tish dominions, their counsels might be guided ao as to insure to the queen attached and loyal subjects, and to United Canada a prosperous and contented people." Notwithstanding these conciliatory mea- sures and proceedings, an attempt was made by Mr. Neilson, the representative of Que- bec, by an amendment on the speech from the throne, to condemn the Act of Union as " inconsistent with justice and the common rights of British subjects." Mr. Neilson's amendment was rejected by 50 to 25, 18 of the minority were French Canadians, or re^ presented French constituencies, 6 were of the extreme Upper Canada party, and 1 was member for Gasp^. Another similar amend- ment was rejected by 54 to 21. The Assem- bly then proceeded to discuss a bill brought in by Sir Allan M'Nab to extend the time for receiving petitions on contested elections, in consequence of some defeated candidates having been too late in presenting their peti- tions in the only form in which they could be received by the Assembly. The mea.sure was a party move, and waa termed the " French VOL. 1, Election Bill." Owing to misconception and other reasons the government were nnable to defeat the bill, which passed the House of Assembly, and was sent up to the Legis- lative Council for discussion and confirma- tion. The upper house rejected the bill, and the harmonious working of two legisla- tive chambers was established; the upper judiciously acting as a check on hasty or partv legislation in the lower chamber. The United Parliament of Canada now proceeded to work; the governor-general introduced through his executive officers various bills for revising the custom laws; readjusting the currency; educating the people ; creating an efficient " Board of Works" for the whole province, which would take the power of jobbing out of the hands of local parties and private individuals; a mimicipal district bill, &c.; and the first ses- sion closed triimiphantly for the governor- general, and happily for Canada, in peace and reviving prosperity. But Lord Syden- ham's constitution, never very strong, gave way after two years of incessant labour ; he was unable to close Parliament in person, which was done by general Clitherow on 17th Sept., 1841, and on the 19th of the same month, Canada lost one of the most able men who ever administered its affairs — the crown a valuable servant, and the nation a true patriot — whose devotion to the inte- rests of his countiy was manifested up to the moment of his death. The immediate cause of the decease of Lord Sydenham was owing to his horse falling with him, on 4th September, frac- turing his leg, and causing a severe wotmd above the knee. His lordship finding his health fast failing, '\.J, in July, 1841, sent home his resignation) which had been gra- ciously accepted by the queen, who had conferred on him the order of the Bath, and while waiting the closing of Parliament and the arrival of the Pique frigate from Halifax to convey him to England, the accident occurred which suddenly terminated the labours of his useful life at the age oi forty-two. By men of all parties in Canada, the death of Lord Sydenham was viewed as a public calamity, and the press throughout the pro- vince bore testimony to the great value of his services. In the words of his able bio- grapher, who rendered efficient assistance to the governor-general in his arduous duties : — " When we look back at the effects produced by his short but vigorous adminis- Vi EFFECTS OF THE REUNION OF THE CANADAS. ^ration, we need not be suiprised at the unanimity which prevailed on this occasion, [le had found the provinces staggering under the effects of two rebellions; their inhabitants divided against each other; their improvements arrested; their exche- quers empty ; their credit annihilated ; each man mistrusting his neighbour; and all looking to milittury force as the only security against renewed violence and ultimate sepa- ration from the mother-country. In less than two years the pictiu% was reversed. He left the province not only iu the most complete security and repwe ; safe not only against foreign aggression, but against intestine discord; hope and confidence re- vived in every bosom; the public works again in progress; credit re-established; and the union with the mother-country cemented and placed on a broader and more secure basis."* On the death of Lord Sydenham, Sir C. Bagot was appointed governor-general of Canada. He had been long employed in the diplomatic service, and having the character of being a high churchman and decided Tory, his accession to office was very fa- vourably viewed by Canada; but they, nevertheless, complained that he threw himself into the hands of the Wliigs and Radicals. Messrs. Draper and Ogden, Tory leaders, resigned; Messrs. Baldwin and Lafontaine, heads of the opposite party, were appointed attorneys-general for West and East Canada; and the council of eleven members was composed of moderate men of all shades of politics. It is, however, ac- knowledged, even by their (opponents, that the new government and governor-general " adopted a system of managing the public revenues, calculated to cherish and improve the resources of the coimtry; that its in- come increased under their direction ; a more beneficial surveillance than had hith- erto existed was imposed on the difierent public ofiicers; and that the ofiicial duties of the departments were abl*. executed." — [Colonial Magazine, No. 3J, September, 1846.] Severe illness obliged Sir Charles Bagot to resign office at the end of 1842, and he died in Canada on the 19th of May, 1843. On the resignation of Sir Charles Bagot, • T. C. Murdoch, Eaq, then attached to Lord Sy- (lenhnm iik Civil Secretary, and now head of the C( ''migration Commission. Mr. Murdoch iTjrott; iij;u iiortinn of the life of Lord Sydenham which related to Canada; the remainder was well executed by the brother of the deceased nobleman, 0. Pouiett Scrope, esq. M.P, the premier. Sir Robert Peel, sought among the ablest men of the day for his successor, and Sir C. Metcalfe, though without aris- tocratic connections, and even personally unknown to any member of her majesty's ministers, was appointed governor-general of Canada. Sir C. Metcalfe, boni the 30th of January, 1785, was the second son of Sir Theophilus Metcalfe, M.P., whose family had been long connected with the East India Company. Mr. Metcalfe was educated at Eton, whore he was " noted for his great kindness of disposition, and his remarkable aptitude at acquiring knowledge and mastering diffi- culties." In 1800 he proceeded to Bengal as a " writer," or civilian, in the service of the East India Company. His proficiency in the college of Fort William attracted the notice of the Marquess Wellesley, then go- vernor-general of India, who, in order to train a class of civil servants adapted for the government of a great empire, formed what was termed the " Gtovemor-General's Office," in which were placed the most promising young men in the sendee of the ' East India Company, where, under the eye of Lord Wellesley, they were trained and prepared for high positions. In a letter written to the Marquess Wellesley in 1836, Sir Charles Metcalfe, gratefully attributes his success in life to the counsels of Lord Wellesley, and to his own endeavours to follow the example set by his lordship. Mr. Metcalfe ffaret dis- tinguished himself as resident at the court of Sciudiah, one of the Mahratta chieftains, and at a critical period, when his very life was threatened, evinced the firmness which characterized his after life. During the Mahratta war of 1803 to 1805, Mr. Metcalfe was attached in a civil capacity to the army of Lord Lake, and his lordship having, in a moment of irritation, let fall some hasty expressions respecting " men who would not fight, and were in the way of others," the young civilian vindicated his personal courage by taking an active part in several contests, and particularly at the battle and siege of Deeg, where, carried away by en- thusiasm, and armed only with a walking stick, he headed an attacking party of the British ti'oops in their assault on the city. In successive years Mr. Metcalfe passed through difierent grades of office, and was employed as resident, or representative of the British government at the courts of Sciudiah, of the Great Mogul at Delhi, the among cceMor, ut ana- rsonally lajcsty's .general January, leophilus )een long :;ompany. on, where ndneM of ptitude at ring diffi- to Bengal service of proficiency tracted the y, then go- av order to adapted for pire, formed or-General's 1 the most rvice of the | ider the eye trwned and he Marquess lea Metcalfe, ;sB in life to y, and to hi8 \ example set 1 life ftrst dis- ' at the court tta chieftains, his very life i nness which During the I „ Mr. Metcalfe \ |y to the army 1 V> having, in a m some hasty ]n who would ray of others," ' his personal part in several the hattle and d away by en- rtth a walking ig party of the It on the city, ietcalfe passed office, and was jpresentative ot the courts ot at Delhi, the CHARACTER AND PROCEEDINGS OF LORD METCALFE. 43 Nizam of the Deccan, and at Lahore, on a NDCcial mission to Rui^cet Sing. He also filled the arduous office of chief secretary to government, and in 1827 became a mem- ber of the Supreme Council of Bengal, and retained his seat for seven years, two years beyond the usual priod. In 1834 Sir Charles Metcalfe (who had succeeded to a baronetcy on the death of his father) was appointed lieutenant-governor of the Agra and the North-west provinces of India ; and in the same year, on the retirement of Lord William Bentinck, he was named acting governor-general, the highest office which a civil servant of the East India Company can hold in Bengal; the crown having adopted the suggestion of Lord Wellesley, that the office of governor-general should not be held by any servant of the East India Company. As acting governor-gen- eral, Sir Cnarles Metcalfe granted a free f)re8s to British India, and adopted various iberal measures. In 1836 he wax succeeded by Lord Auckland, who was appointed gov- ernor-general ; and the court of directors of the East India Company having disapproved of Sir Charles Metcalfe's ordinance on the Indian press, he returned to England, and thus ended a useful career of 36 years' service in British India. In 1837 he was created a civil K.C.B. by His Majesty WilUam IV., and retired, for a time, into private life. In July, 1839, Sir Charles Metcalfe was induced to quit his privacy, and undertake the office of captain-gene- ral or governor of Jamaica, which was strongly urged upon him, in consequence of the distracted state of affairs in that important colony. On his arrival at Ja- maica the governor called the Assembly together, firankly solicited their confidence, which was readUy granted ; and by a strict enforcement of justice, tempersd with mercy — ^by firmness attended with mildness — he succeeded in restoring peace to the colony. General ill health, and the appearance of a cancer on his face, compelled Sir Charles Metcalfe, to the great regret of all parties, to relinquish the government of Jamaica on the 20th of May, 1842; and on his arrival in July of the same year Sir Charles Brodie excised a cancerous tumour from his cheek, after which he partially recovered — accepted the station of governor-general of Canada, and proceeded immediately to Kingston, in Western Canada, where he was sworn into office. Tlie new governor-general stated that while he recognized the just power and pri- vileges of the people to influence their rulers, and to regulate, through their representa- tives, the measures of the government, he reserved to himself the right of selecting the executive officers of the crown. The mem- bers of the Canadian Parliament, and also of the executive, were divided on the subject of the transfer of the seat of government from Kingston, in Upper Canada, to Mon- treal in Lower Canada; and there was a great struggle for a parliamentary majority by Sir Allan Napier M'Nab and his party. Sir C. Metcalfe did not interfere in these discussions, and the Assembly eventually de- cided for the removal. In 1844 the queen, as a mark of her appreciation of the long aucl valuable services of this distinguished ser- vant, created him Baron Metcalfe. It is imnecessary to enter into details here, on subjects of merely local interest, which influenced the majorities in the As- sembly and the persons entrusted with the executive government of the colony. No par ticular event took place, except two awAilly destructive fires which occurred at Quebec. Happily few lives were lost; but it was cal- culated that the dwellings of 24,000 people had been destroyed, many of whose inha- bitants were reduced to utter destitution. Subscriptions to the amount of £100,000 were collected in the United Kingdom, and £35,000 was elsewhere raised for ♦he relief of the afflicted sufferers. In 1844 the Canadian Parliament was dis- solved, and a new one called, in which the views of the governor general were supported by a small majority. The high character, indomitable energy, and singleness of pur- pose habitually evinced by the representa- tive of the crown in Canada, enabled him to effect much good in training the people for the future enjoyment of free institutions; and had his life and powers been spared, he would doubtless have assuaged the asperity which the violence of party feeling had dif- fused over all classes in Canada. But in November, 1845, he was obliged to return to England, the cancer on his cheek having re- appeared; and of this dreadful disease he soon after died, universally regretted. Tlie kindness, the frank manliness, forbearance, and christian charity of Lord Metcalfe were as tully appreciated in Canada as they had been in Jamaica and in British India. Lord Stanley in the Canadian debate in the House of Lords on 13th June, 1849, described him as " that wise, gi'eat, and good M THE EARL OF ELGIN THE PRESENT OOVERNOR-OENERAL. man, of whoae hi^h qualities aiid transcen- dent merits it would m iinpoanible to speak in terms of exaggerated praise." His lord- ship drew an eloquent, but most truthful picture, when he said — " He knew nothing more touching than the uniform patience and fortitude with which, in the agony of an incurable disease, in the presence of death in its most loathsome and appalling form, in the midst of the most riolcnt party struggles, surrounded by the moHt distracting vexa- tions, and the extremcst agony of body and mind — nothing could bo more touching than the self-posticsHion, the calmness, and tem- per with which he restrained the violence which assailed the governor of Canada." The then commander-in-chief in British North America, Lieutenant-general Earl Cathcart, was appointed administrator of the government. At this period the Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, then governor of Jamaica, was in England on leave of absence. Lord Elgin had succeeded Sir Charles Metcalfe in May, 1842, in the administra- tion of the affairs of Jamaica, and his conduct had given universal satisfaction in the colony, to his sovereign, and to her majesty's government. His lordship had inherited and imbibed from his father a ca- pacity for public life. The late Earl of Elgin had been chiefly employed in the diplomatic service, and during the eventful period at the close of the last, and the beginning of the present century, his ex- ertions as his majesty's representative with the Sublime Porte, at Constantinople, were effectively instrumental in aiding the late Marquis Wellesley in the successful issue of his lordship's project for the expulsion of the French from Egypt by the combined armies from England and from India. Lord Elgin was, contrary to the law of nations, imprisoned by Napoleon for his exertions; which were never requited by the govern- ment of Britain. The sacrifice of the Athe- nian Marbles to the French emperor would have secured his freedom, but bin lordship's patriotic spirit destined them for his own country, and would not abandon his object even for personal freedom or riches. The grant from the British parliament only re- paid half his expenses in conveying them from the shores of Greece, to be cared for and appreciated in Britain; but his desire of raising the standard of taste among his countrymen was accomplished. The present peer was bom in 181 1, educated at Oxford, returned member for Southampton to the Imperial Parliament, where he made an efi'ective speech on the Address, which at once marked him as a statesman, and opened the door of oflico to him while in England. His accession to the earldom removed him fivm the House of Commons, and her mtgesty's government being anxious to nominate a successor to Sir Charles Met- calfe in the government of Jamaica, Lord Elgin accepted the appointment, which he fulfilled greatly to the satidfantion of his sovereign, and to the Whig as well as Con- servative party. Earl Grey 8ubsc(|ucntly stated in the House of Lords, that Lord Elgin was nearly a stranger to him when he recommended his lordship to the queen for the government of Canada ; and during the recent parliamentary discussions states- men of all parties in both houses united in bearing testimony to the ability and integ- rity of the governor-general, the difficulties of whose position are, perhaps, even greater than those of his predecessors. Lord Lynd- hurst, in the debate of 20th of June, 1848, while opposing the "Canada Indemnity Bill," said, " / believe — and I state it on the testimony of many persons who have the best means of knowledge — Lord Elgin to be a most honest and conscientious as well as able man." The Earl of Elgin was appointed Governor-General of Canada 1st of October, 1846,and arrived inCanada in January, 1847. The principal feature in the administra- tion of the Earl of Elgin has been the pass- ing of a bill by the legislature of Canada for the indemnification of parties in the Lower province, who had suffered by the rebellion of 1837-38. The bill has occasioned con- siderable excitement in Canada, and given rise to much discussion in the Imperial Par- liament, and as the question raised in Eng- land, both in the House of Commons and the House of Lords, involves the free exer- cise of what is termed "responsible," or, more properly speaking, "constitutional" government in the colonies, it will be desir- able to place on record a brief narrative of the principal circumstances connected with this measure, derived from the doeiunents laid before Parliament. On the 26th Januarv, 1838, Earl Oosford, then governor-general, addressed a letter from Quebec to Lord Glenelg, then her majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies, in which he informed her majesty's govern- ment that " many loyal individuals in Lower Canada had sustained losses to a greater or less extent, from the rebels having taken HISTORY OP THE WESTERN CANADA "INDEMNITY ACT." 46 oade an vhich at lan, and while in earldom lummonii, g anxioiiH irlea Mtt- ica, Lord which ho on of hi» 11 as Con- bstMiuently thai Lord him when the queen and during ions states- Es united in ■ and intcg- e difficulties even greater Lord Lynd- June, 1848, k Indemnity tate it on the ho have the i Elgin to be ^ as well cu was appointed at of October, anuary, 1847. e administra- been the pass- of Canada for iu the Lower I the rebellion jcasioned con- da, and given Imperial Par- i8ed in Eng- Commons and the free exer- sponsible," or, constitutional it win be desir- ief narrative of connected with the documents 8, Earl Gosford, , Iressed a letter ;nelg, then her for the Colonies, najesty's govern- tviduals in Lower » to a greater or jls having taken j possession of and laid waste their property, or from the same having been destroyed by the military operations neccssanr for putting down the insurrection;" and the govemor- l^ncral inquired " whether any and what description of losses incurred from the above causes were to be indemnified, and in what manner." A committee of the Executive Cotmcil of Lower Canada, of Messrs. Stew- art, Pemberton, Panet, and Guesnal, on 21st January, 1H38, having deliberated on the subject, recommended " an advance, by way of loan, to anv loyal subject who can show satisfactorily that the whole or greater part of his property has been destroyed, without any connivance or fault of the applicant, by the rebels or her majesty's forces, during the late insurrection, a sum not exceeding one- third of the estimated loss ; the party giving good security for the repayment of the amount so advanced, without interest, in case of the government hereafter deciding that such losses are not to be indemnified by the public." On the 26th April, 1838, an ordinance (1 Vic. c. 7) was passed by the Special Coun- cil of Lower Canada, under the administra- tion of lieutenant-general Sir John Colborne, authorizing the appointment of commission- ers " to investigate the claims of certain loyal inhabitants of the province for losses sus- tained during the late unnatural rebellion." On the 6th March, 1838, an act (1 Vic. c. 13) was passed by the legislature of Upper Canada, authorizing the appointment of commissioners to make a diligent and im- partial inquiry into the amount of losses sustained by " certain inhabitants of this 1 province" during the late unnatural rebel- lion." Tlie word "loyal" does not appear in this act. The commissioners were to inquire into all matters and things tmdor oath, to punish false swearing, and to fur- nish to the lieutenant-general accounts of their piroceedings in writing. The report of the commissioners in Upper Canada gives full details of the property destroyed by the rebels in Upper Canada, and also that de- stroyed by the American "sympathisers," or invaders. On 11th May, 1838, the legislature of Upper Canada passed an act (c. 68), author- izing the issue of provincial debentures to the amount of about £5,000, bearing 6 per cent, interest, and redeemable after 20 years, to certain persons whose claims for losses during the insurrection in Upper Canada in December, 1837, had been investigated. The House nf Assembly also addressed the queen, praying the reimbursement of the money thus granted trom the imperial trea- sury. The Marquis of Normanby, as her majestVs Secretary of State for the Colonies, on 27th June, 1839, informed Sir G. Arthur, lieutenant-governor of Upper Canada, that he was commanded by the queen to express to the AsHoinbly her majesty's regret that she could not hold out any prospect of the indemnity-money being repaid by Parlia- ment, the people of England beiug already charged with the military defence of the province. In 1839, an act was passed by the legis- lature of Upper Canada to " ascertain and provide for the payment of all jtut claims arising from the late rebellion and invasion of the province." The preamble of this Act conveyed a pledge that the indemnity should lUtimately be borne by the Imperial treasury. Lord John Russell, as her majesty's Se- cretary of State for the Colon is, on 12th Octohr^r, 1839, declined giving the assent of the crown, stating, that even if the principle of the preamble were admitted, it would be of no avail, unless with the previous sanction of Parliament. His lordship, however, in- formed Sir George Arthur, the lieutenant- governor, that if the colonial legislature should pass a similar bill, free from the objection of pledging Parliament for the payment of the indemnity-money, he would be ready to advise the giving of the royal asisent. in IBM) an act wos passed by the United Legislature of Canada (8 Vic. c. 72), ap- propriating j6 10,000 "for the payment ol aWjust claims arising from the latt rebellion and invasion of the province." The money to be collected and levied fiom taverii li- cences and other duties in the province, and apportioned by three commissioners on oath. The royal assent was given to this act, and it was promulgated 22nd October, 1840. A further act was passed 28th July, 1847, adding .€3,613 8s. 9rf. to the £40,000 authorized by the 8 Vic. c. 72. Nothing was stated in the act relative to loyalty • the matters to be investigated iuvolveil solely the justness, or as Mr. Poulett Thom- son expressed it, the validity of the claims. Under this act it is stated by Mr. Hincks, the receiver-general of Canada, that many persons who were known to be rebels re- ceived payment for supplies rendered to the military, or for damage sustained. During 1838, and in subsequent yenis. I 46 EASTERN CANADA " INDEMNITY ACT" OP 1848. the losses sustained in Lower Canada by the rebels and American invaders, was re- ?eatedly under examination and discussion, 'revious to the arrival of Mr. P. Thomson as governor-general, £21,000 had been awarded to the sufferers by Sir J. Colbome, and Mr. Thomson urged on her majesty's government that the Imperial Parliament should defray, at least, some of these claims. In 1845 the council of Lord Metcalfe (thtn consisting of what is termed the con- servative party in Canada) proposed that a special fund, derived from tavern and mar- riage licenses, which formed part of the revenue of the consolidated fund in Canada, and was more productive in Upper than Lower Canada, should be surrendered to the municipalites; and that in Upper Canada it should, in the first place, be charged with the payment of ihe rebellion indem- nity losses. Previous to this proposal being carried in the Canadian ParUamcnt, a reso- lution was unanimously adopted Jby the House of Assembly, praying his exceUency "to cause proper measures to be adopted, in order to ensure to the inhabitants of Lower Canada indemnity for just losses by them sustained during the rebellion of 1837 and 1838." The French party in the United Legis- lature assented to this act for indemnifica- tion in Upper Canada: a proposition was made, and confirmed by the above resolu- tion^ that a similar act should be passed for Lower Canada. On the 24th of No- vember, 1845, Lord Metcalfe, the governor- general, issued a commission to Messrs. Dione, Moore, Jacques, Viger, Simpson, and Beaudry, to inquire into the losses sustained by her majesty's loyal subjects in Lower Canada. On the retirement of Lord Metcalfe the commission was re- newed on the 12th of December, 1845, by the Earl of Cathcart, as administrator of the province, to ^he same persons ; and the commissioners were instnicted to "classify carefully the cases of those wlio may have joined in the said rebellion, or who may have been aiding and abetting tlierein, from, the rases of those who did not ; stating particu- larly, but succinctly, the nature of the loss sustained in each case, its amount and char- acter, and, as far as possible, its cause." An investigation of this nature would, if efficiently performed, necessarily enable the government to ascertain what were "just" claims, without entering on the debateable ground of what constituted treason, or who were traitors or rebels; but a difficulty arose in the minds of the commissioners as to their powers and means of procuring evidence, and on the 27th of February the government decided that the commissioners were to be " guided by the sentences of the courts of law," and that they had no powers to call for persons or papers. On the 18th of April, 1846, the commis- sioners reported to Lord Cathcart, that they recognized claims to the number of 2,176, and of the value of £241,965, viz., personal property £111,127, real property £68,961, and damages not comprised in the foregoing heads £61,877. In the latter was included £9,000 for interest, £2,000 for quartering troops, £30,000 indemnity for imprison- ment, interruption of business or trade, privation of goods destroyed or carried off, and banishment : the remainder represented i various losses, such as account books, trade I effects, &c. The commissioners were of \ opinion that £100,000 would be a sufficient I and fair equivalent to the losses sustained; | and they stated, that " the want of power | to proceed to a strict and regular investi- gation of the losses in question, left them no other resource than to trust to the alle- gations of the claimants as to the amount and nature of their losses." Some of the claims the commibsioners considered inad- missible, and others were evid/rntly exor- bitant. On the 19th of June, 1846, the United Legislature passed "an act to provide for the payment of certain rebellion losses in Lower Canada." The act also empowered the issuing of £9,986 7s. 2d. in debentures towards the payment of the said indemnity. On Lord Elgin's assumption of the go- vernment of Canada in January, 1847, he found the question in the state described. The Conservative administration by which he was surrounded, dissolved the House of Assembly in the hope of strengthening their position; but the new Assembly convened under their auspices, placed the adminis- tration in a minority, and compelled it to give place to what would be termed in Eng- land the Whig or Reform Party. By the constitution of Canada the governor-general is bound to act only through " responsible" advisers — that is, those who possess the confidence of the province; and the only legitimate proof of that confidence is a majority in the House of Assembly. i'he Reform administration proceeded to carry out the measures adopted by their ifficulty mem as ■ocuring lary the issioners 38 of the 3 powers commis- :hat they 3f 2,176, personal £68,961, foregoing included quartering imprison- or trade, arried ofif, jpresented )ok9, trade 3 were of | a sufficient I sustained; I t of power lar investi- , left them [o the alle- he amount onie of the lered inad- r.ntlv exor- the United provide for losses in j empowered | debentures i indemnity, j of the go- 1 , 1847, he I described. by which House of hening their ly convened he adminis- ipelled it to med in Eng- iy. By the imor-general responsible" j 1 possess the , i tnd the only I ifidence is a j ivbly. \ proceeded to ted by their PROCEEDINGS IN CANADA ON THE "INDEMNITY BILL." 47 predecessors in office for the indemnification of the rebellion losses ; and, accordingly, on the 27th of February, 1849, an act was introduced, and read without opposition in the House of Assembly, "to provide for the indemnification of parties in Lower Canada, whose property was destroyed dur- ing the rebellion of 1837-38." The pre- amble recited the different steps that had been taken during preceding years, and authorised the issue of debentures to the amoimt of £100,000, for the payment of this indemnity. But as the commissioners of 1846 reported their inability to make a strict and regular investigation of the losses in question, the preamble declared — "it is necessary and just that the particulars of such los^ics, not yet paid and satisfied, should form the subject of more minute inquiry under legislative authority, and that the same, so far only as they may have arisen from the total or partial, unjust, unnecessary, or wanton destrnoticn of the dwellings, buildings, property, aud effects of the said inhabitants, and from the seizure, taking or carrying away of their property and effects, should be paid and satisfied; provided that none of the persons who have been convicted of high treason, alleged to have been committed in that part of this province formerly the province of Lower Canada, since the first day of November, 1837, or who, having been charged with high treason or other offences of a treason- able nature, and having been committed to the custody of the sheriff in the gaol of Montreal, submitted themselves to the will and pleasure of Iter majesty, and were there- upon transported to her majesty's Islands of Bermuda, shall be entitled to any indemnity for losses sustained during or after the said rebellion, or in consequence thereof." This act, after much discussion, was passed by the House of Assembly and by the Le- gislative Council. It was opposed on the ground, that rebels might obtain compen- sation, which the administration repeatedly asserted was not the intention of the act; and no objection having been made by her majesty's government to the previous act for Upper Canada, or to any of the pro- ceedings adopted by Lords Gosford, Syden- j ham, Metcalfe, and Catlicart, the governor- I general deemed it his duty to give his i assent. It was well known that much property had been wantonly destroyed in the Lower province, and a pledge had been given by the members of Upper Canada to those of Lower Canada, previous to the passing of the indemnity bill for Upper Canada, that a similar act should be adopted for Lower Canada. The money was not to come out of the Imperial treasmy, but to be raised by the people, whose representatives had, by a considerable majority (48 to 32) enacted the law, which was confirmed by the Legislative Council, consisting of 31 English and 15 French members nominated for life, and independent of the governor or of the peo- ple; and it was denrly the bounden duty of the representative of the crown in Canada to do that which his sovereign would necessarily have done in England, namely, assent to a measure passed by majorities in the House of Commons and in the House of Lords. Had Lord Elgin declined to take this course, he would have thrown the whole colony into irremediable concision; the disastrous contest of races would have broken out a&esh ; the constitution granted by the Queen and Parliament of Great Britain would have been treated as a nul- lity; the declaration of our gracious sover- eign, that it was the " anxious desire of her majesty that her British North American subjects should enjoy that freedom which is the birth-right of Britons," would have been set aside; and every other colony to which Great Britain might hereafter grant constitutional government, might justly doubt the permanence of a constitution whose first principles were liable to be abrogated or altered according to the fluc- tuating state of party feclicg, either in the colony or at home. To have dissolved the Canadian Parlia- ment on the subject would have been un- just: when that parliament was convened the question was before the colony, and its principle ratified by the Upper Canada act ; and to have reserved the act for the assv^nt of the queen, would have thrown on the crown a degree of responsibility which \t% representative felt himself bound to incur. The governor-general, therefore, wisely, and in a spirit of justice, and also of concilation, to all classes, gave his assent ; but in con- sequence of the street riots in Montreal, promoted by the opponents of the act, and the disgraceful proceedings of the mob in burning the House of Parliament at Mon- treal, and thus destroying its magnificent library. Lord Elgin patriotically tendered his resignation of the arduous and respon- sible office, which he filled with dignified neutrality between violent contending par- 48 THE QUEEN APPROVES OP THE POLICY OF LORD ELGIN. ties, and which, from the commencement of his administration, his lordship declared it had been his unremitting study to maintain. The quetn and her majesty's government immediately expressed full approval of the whole conduct of the governor-general ; urgently desired his retention of the office he had so meritoriously and judiciously filled ; and the House of Commons and the House of Lords ratified the decision of her ma- jesty's ministers. The approbation of the queen was thus strongly expressed by the Secretary of State for the Colonies, in the concluding paragraph of a despatch dated 18th of May, 1849:— " Relying, therefore, upon your devotion to the interests of Ca- nada, I feel assured that you will not be induced by the unfortunate occurrences which have taken place, to retire from the high office which the queen has been pleased to entrust to you, and which, from the value she puts upon your past services, it is her majesty's anxious wish that you should retain." Sir Robert Peel most ably sup- ported the policy pursued by Lord John Russell and Earl Grey. The House of As- sembly in Canada voted an address to the governor-general by a considerable majority, which was tantamoimt to an approval of his policy; and about 300 addresses were pre- sented to him from Montreal, Quebec, and various places in Upper and Lower Canada. The violent language and proceedings of the minority have inflicted much injury on Canada; and the inflammatory articles printed in the Montreal Gazette of 26th April, 1849, and laid before the British Par- liament in May, 1849, cannot be palliated. Canada wants capital to cultivate its waste lauds, to make railroads and canals, and to improve its valuable territory. Capital can only be attracted by peace, by order, by an union of all classes cordially combining for the welfare of their common country. May this recent agitation be the expiring contest of the opposing races in Canada; the colo- nists, whether of EngUsh or French descent, are now all British subjects, and have been so for nearly a century (90 years) — the queen and government of Great Britain acknow- ledge no distinction, and it is the interest, as it is the policy, of England that Canada should be peaceful, prosperous, united, and happy. CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY, RIVERS, LAKES, TOWNSHIPS, CHIEF CITIES, ETC. Canada, imder the dominion of France, was governed as one province, and after its con- quest by the British, in 1760, was considered as such until 1791; when the colony was divided into two provinces by an order of the King in Council, viz. — the Lower or Eastern, in which the French population resided; and the Upper or Western, to which the re- fugee loyalists from the United States and emigrants from Britain chiefly resorted. P rter the rebellion of 1837, '38, '39, the two provinces were reunited, and on the passing of the Act of Union in 1840, and the consequent alterations in the new Legis- lative Assembly, the electoral divisions and boundaries of counties were altered. The I existing arrangements will be shewn in the chapter on Population ; in the present chap- ter the geographical features will be preserved as better calculated to afford a correct idea of the physical features of the country. The whole province, exclusive of the adja- cent regions claimed by the Hudson's Bay i Company, may be said to extend in a S.W. | direction from the island of Anticosti, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to the S. extremity of I Lake Erie, a distance of 1000 miles. From ' Lake Erie to the N.W. boundary of the | colony, in the parallel of 50° N., the dis- i tance, as the crow flies, is 600 mile^ and from Quebec to the N.W. limits of Lake Superior, the distance is nearly 1000 miles. The largest portion of the province is situ- ated between the parallels of 45° to 50° N. : but the fine districts betweei: Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron, extend from 45° to 41° 30' N. in a S.W. direction for nearly 400 miles, with a breadth varying from 50 to 150 miles. The coast of Labrador lies between the parallels of 50° and 60° N. ; a rigorous cli- mate and sterile soil have prevented its colo ■ ..-.v^y- i 1. t' najority, al of his were pre- sbec, and Canada, edings of ih injury y articles of 25th ritish Par- )alliated. e its waste ils, and to lapital can :der, by an ibining for itry. May •ing contest i; the cole- 1 ich descent, 1 [ have been — the queen I ftin acknow- ' e interest, as that Canada , united, and rc. • •■ >' pre of the adja- iHudson's Bay \nA in a S.W. iticosti, in the ;. extremity of miles. From indary of the 1)0 U., the dis- oOO miles, and Kimits of Lake My 1000 miles, [rovince is situ- 45°to50°N.: Lakes Ontario, Loin 45° to 41 for nearly 400 [ng from 50 to les between the % a rigorous cU- Lventcd its colo ROMANTIC AND PICTURESQUE FEATURES OF CANADA. 49 nization. "l .oundaries of the province on the N., 'i< ., and N.W., have not been clearly defiua, and the area has been variously estimated; in Eastern or Lower Canada, exclusive of Labrador, the river and gulf of St. Lawrence, and the lakes, the area is about 210,000 square English miles. The gulf and river of St. Lawrence cover upwards of 50,000 square miles. The vast lakes and numerous rivers in Western or Upper Canada render it difficult to give approxima- tive accuracy to the landed area. The natural features of Canada partake of the most romantic sublimities and pic- turesque beauties ; indeed the least imagina- tive beholder cannot fail to be struck with the alternations of ranges of mountains, magnificent rivers, immense lakes, boimdless forests, extensive prairies, and foaming ca- taracts. Beginning with the bold sea-coast of the ocean-like river St. Lawrence, it may be observed that the eastern parts are high, mountainous, and covered with forests on both sides of the St. Lawrence to its very edge ; on the northern side the mountains run parallel with the river to Quebec, where they take a W. and S.W. course: on the southern side the mountainous range does not approach within 60 miles of Quebec, when it quits the parallel of the river and runs in a S.W. and S. direction into the United Stafes. The mountains S. of the St. Lawrence rise abruptly at Perce, be tween the Bay of Chaleur and the Bay of Gaspl. They follow the course of the river at a greater distance from its banks than those on the opposite side, and are connected by the Green Mountains of Vermont with the loftier ridge of the Alleghanies, which divide the tributaries of the Atlantic from ; those of the Ohio. The coimtry situated I between the mountain ranges on either side I of the river and the boundary line of East j Canada in 45° north, forms the valley of the St. Lawrence. In order to give a clear view of this valley, it may be well to divide it into sections, and then treat briefly of the rivers and lakes throughout the province — i beginning with the sea-coast. ! I. North side op the St. Lawrence.-^ ' The most northerly and easterly section of the province of Eastern Canada, extending from Ance au Sablon on the Labrador coast to \ the Saguenay river, lat. 48° 5', long. 69° 37', ' occupies a front of 650 miles, of which little j more is known than the appearance of the coast, as noted from time to time by fisher- I VOL. I. I men and hunters. Bold mountainous fea- tures generally characterise the coast line ; in some places the range recedes from the shores of the gulf and river St. Lawrence to the extent of 12 or 15 miles, leaving a deep swampy flat or moss-bed nearly three feet in depth, while in others (as at Portneuf, 40 miles E. of the Saguenay) the shores are of moderate elevation, and composed alter- nately of clifis of light-coloured sand, and tufts or clumps of evergreens. The country between the two points above- stated, is well watered by numerous rivers, among which may be mentioned the Grande and Petite Bergeronnes, the Portneuf, Mis- sisiquinak, Betsiamites, Bustard, Manicou- gan, Ichimanipistic (or seven islands), St. John, St. Austins, and Esquimaux. II. The second geographical division of the province N. of the river St. Lawrence, is that comprised within the mouths of the Saguenay and St. Maurice rivers, which form the great highways to the northern territories, and ramify in various directions with numerous lesser streams and lakes. The distance between the Saguenay and the St. Maurice is about 200 miles. From Quebec to the Saguenay there is a lofty and clearly defined range of mountains; from Cape Tourment, the ridge is un- broken (save where rivers find their f^xits in tJie St. Lawrence) to 15 miles below Saguenay. Beyond this coast border, the country is in some places flat, in others undulated by chains of hills of moderate height, and well watered by numerous lakes and rivers; among the latter are the St. Charles, the Montmorenci, the Great River, or St. Ann's, the Riviere du Gt)ufBre, Black River, &c. The country N. W. of Quebec, between that city and the St. Maurice, is not so strongly marked as on the S. E. towards the Saguenay; the land gently ascends from the St. Lawrence banks, presenting an ex- tremely picturesque prospect, the effect of the rich grouping of water, wood, and highly cultivated ground being heightened by the shadowy forms of remote and lofty moun- tains. The rivers Jacques Cartier, Port- neuf, St. Ann's and Batiscan, with their numerous tributaries, tend also to fertilize and adorn this delightful district. III. The third territorial section N. of St. La>vrence, embraces the coimtry lying between the St. Maurice river and the junc- tion of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, where West and East Canada meet. The aspect H ! 80 COUNTRY BORDERING ON THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. of the country from 5 to 15 miles from the river's hank is marked hy slightly elevated table ridges, with occasional abrupt accli- vities and plains of moderate extent. The islands of Montreal, Jesus, and Perrot, situate in the river St. Lawrence, come irithin this section. Montreal, the largest of the three, is of a triangular shape, 32 miles long by 10 broad, lying at the con- fluence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, and separated on the N.W. from isle Jesus, by the rivik* des Prairies. Montreal exhibits a surface nearly level, with the exception of a mountain (Coteau St. Pierre) and one or two hills of slight elevation, fit)m which flow numerous streams and rivulets. The island is richly cultivated and tastefully adorned. Isle Jesus, N.W. of Montreal, 21 miles long by 6 broad, is everywhere level, fertile, and admirably tilled; oflf its S.W. end is isle Bizard, about 4 miles in length and nearly oval, well cleared and tenanted. Isle Per- jot lies off the S.W. end of Montreal, 7 miles long by 8 broad; level, sandy, and not well cleared ; the small islets de la Paix are annexed to the seigniory of Isle Perrot, and serve for pasturage. Little is known of the interior of that portion of the province which is bounded by the Ottawa or Grand River ; so far as it has been explored, it is not distinguished by the boldness which characterises the eastern sec- tion of Lower Canada ; now and then small ridges and extensive plains arc met with, receding from the bed of the Ottawa, whose margin is an alluvial flat, flooded often by the spring freshes and autumnal rains, to the extent of a mile from the river's bed. The Bytown tract, extending 200 miles up the Ottawa, to the Upper AUumettes lake is in general level or gently sloping, and is traversed by several tributaries of the Ot- tawa, towards which it graduaUy declines. IV. South sidb or the St. Lawrence. — We now turn to the region on the south of the St. Lawrence, beginning as before at the sea coast — on which the extensive county and district of Gasp^ is situate. This large tract of territory which extends 90 miles fix)m north to south, and has a sea coast of 380 miles, with a range of mountains skirting the St. Lawrence to the N., and another it no remote distance from the shores of Ristigouche river and Bay of Chalcur; — between these ridges is an elevated and bro- ken valley, occasionally intersected by deep ravines. The district is well wooded, and Wittered by numerous rivers and lakes ; the soil rich, and yielding abundant crops when tilled. The sea-beach is low (with the ex- 1 ception of the lofty and perpendicular clifiis i of Cape Gasp^) and is frequently used as the ' highway of the territory; behind it, the land rises in high, round, and well wooded hills, j The chief rivers are the Ristigouche, into which fall the Pscudy, Goummitz, Guadam- gonichoue, Mistoue, and Matapediac; the > Grand and Little Nouvelle, Grand and Lit- ; tie Cascapediac, Caplin, Bonaventure, East Nouvelle, and Port Daniel, which discharge themselves into the Bay of Chaleur ; — Grand and Little Pabos, Grand and Little River, and ' Mai Bay River, flowing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence: — the river St. John, and north- east and south-west branches, fall into Gasp^ Bay. There are also many lakes. ' ■ V. The country comprised between the ; W. boundary of Gaspe, and the E. of the ChaudiSre river, fronts the St. Lawrence river to the N.W. for 250 miles, and is \ bounded on the S.E. by the high lands dividing the British territories from those of the United States. These high lands are 62 miles from the St. Lawrence at their nearest point, hut on approaching the Chaudiere river, they diverge southwardly. The physi- cal aspect of this district, is not so moun- tainous as the opposite bank of the St. Lawrence; it may more properly be charac- terised as a hilly region, abounding in exten- sive vallies. The immediate border of the St. Lawrence is flat, soon however rising in irregular ridges, and attaining considerable height, and forming an extent of table-land; which, at the distance of 15 to 20 miles from the shores of the St. Lawrence, gently de- scends towards the river St. Jolm, beyond which it again reascends, acquiring a greater degree of altitude towards the sources of the Allegash, and finally merging in the Connecticut range of mountains. VI. The last section of Lower Cc ida, S. of the St. Lawrence, is the ej^ceedingly valuable tract W. of the river Chaudiere fronting the St. Lawrence, and having in its rear the high lands of Connecticut, and the parallel of 45° of N. lat., which consti- tutes the S. and S.E. boundary of Eastern Canada, where the latter is divided from the American States r,f New Hampshire, Ver- mont, and New Yofk. The physical aspect greatly varies throughout this extensive sec- tion; at the mouth of the Chaudiere the banks of the St. Lawrence still retain the boldness for which they are remarkable at Quebec and Point Levi, but proceeding west rate , Baie of L count ceedii treal, about , cham] Cham formej deligh luxurii neat 1 , lightfu i Richelj I rence, towerir Chamb! Bouche the St. itgradu ; gressive mountai phrama§ continue aspect, t the heig sources, general o observati volume, i traversinj I tinuation] form a cJ ' to W. tl W. E. L(- "that bel valley of| N.E. couj each bank from 12 t\ side of tl spread, hil On the 30 to 40 : tion of a I the foot oj tains of f Canada, dJ ; peaks are J tinuous mi presenting! ' These ranf parallel to| rence." from the Chambly, BEAUTIFUL SCENERY OP EASTERN CANADA. 51 ex- liflfs ': the land ; lUls. into iam- the . Lit- East dargc irand r,and of St. aorth- Gasp^ ;n the of the .wrence and is 1 lands those of \ g are 62 ■ nearest \ ban^ere ! lephysi- moun- the St. B charac- inexten- ;r of the rising in isiderable ible-land; j liles from 1 rently de- i a, beyond i [uiring a ^ 'ards the i merging \ ;ains. i ',t 'da, S. : ^ceedingly : Chaudiere ' Lvinginits ' It, and the ; [ch consti- i of Eastern i }d from the fshire, Ver- sical aspect tensive sec- ludiSre the retain the iarkable at proceeding westward, they gradually subside to a mode- rate elevation, till they sink into the flats of Baie du Febre, and form the marshy shore of Lake St. Peter, the remainder of the country being a richly luxuriant plain. Pro- ceeding from Lake St. Peter towards Mon- treal, the majestic grandeur of the country about Quebec contrasts with the picturesque champagne beauties of Richelieu, Vercheres, Chambly, and La Prairie districts. In the former especially, the eye of the spectator is delighted with a succession of fertile fields, , luxiuiant meadows, flourishing settlements, neat homesteads, gay villages, and even de- lightfid villas, adorning the banks of the Richelieu, the Yamaska, and the St. Law- rence, whilst in the distance are seen the towering mountain tops of Rouville and Chambly, Rougemont, Mount Johnson, and Boucherville. As the countiy recedes from the St. La^v^ence banks to the E. and S.E., it gradually swells into ridges, becomes pro- gressively more hilly, and finally assumes a mountainous character towards lakes Mem- phramagog and St. Francis, beyond which it continues to preserve more or less a similar aspect, to the borders of the Chaudiere, and the height of land at the Connecticut's sources. Colonel Bouchette, the surveyor- general of Lower Canada, to whose valuable observations I am so much indebted in this volume, is of opinion that the range of hills traversing Bolton, Orford, &c., are a con- tinuation of the Green Mountains, which form a conspicuous ridge running from S. to W. through the State of Vermont. Mr. W. E. Logan, the provincial geologist, says, "that between Montreal and Quebec the valley of the St. Lawrence has a general N.E. course, and presents a flat surface on each bank of the river. This plain extends from 12 to 20 miles in breadth on the N.W. side of the river, to the flank of a wide- spread, hilly, but not very elevated country. On the S.E, side of the river the plains are 30 to 40 miles wide, and with the interven- tion of a few moderate undulations, reach the foot of a range called the Green Moun- tains of Vermont, wliich, after entering Canada, decline in height; but a few isolated peaks are 4000 feet above the sea. A con- tinuous mountain-belt bounds the S.E. side, presenting a gently undulating surfp.ce. These ranges of mountain and valley are parallel to one another, and to the St. Law- rence." Several isolated mountains rise from the valleys or plains of Yamaska and I Chambly, and give a romantic interest to the scenery, the beauty of which is increased ijy numerous rivers, lakes, and rivulets winding in every direction. The chief rivers are the Chaudiere, which forms the eastern boimdary, the Begancour, Nicolet (two branches), St. Francis, Yamaska, Richelieu (or Chambly), Chateauguay and Salmon: all but the three last having their source within the province. The chief lakes are the Mem- phramagog, of which part belongs to Canada, and part to the United States; Scaswani- nipus, Tomefobi, St. Francis, Nicolet, Pitt, William, Trout, and many others of less importance. Dr. Thomas Rolfe, who has laboured strenuously in behalf of Canada, remarks, that " from 100 miles below Quebec to 100 miles above Montreal, on both sides of the St. LaT^Tcnce, there is a most beautiful country, not only cleared, cultivated, and thickly settled, but actually adorned with a continuous line of villages on either bank. There is not a point from which the spire of a spacious and elegant parish church does not greet the eye, and frequently there are many to be seen in the same view. Tlie eastern portion of Canada, and probably the eastern to^vnships, contain the greatest variety of beautiful scenery; mountain, rock, hill, dale, plain, forest, water-fall, lake, and river." Having thus briefly shown the geogra- phical divisions of East Canada, we may pro- ceed to the examination of the great artery which passes through both divisions of the province, and the islands and districts adja- cent, beginning with the Gulf op St. Lawrence, which receives the waters of the numerous lakes and rivers of the Canadian portion of the American continent, and is formed by the western coast of Newfoundland, the eastern shores of Labrador, the eastern extremity of the province of New Brunswick, part of Nova Scotia, and the island of Cape Breton ; and communicates with the Atlantic by three difierent channels; namely, by the Gut of Canso (a narrow passage divid ng Cape Bre- ton from Nova Scotia), by a considerably wider channel between Cape North, in Cape Breton isle, and Cape Ray, in Newfound- land ; and by the narrow straits of Belle-isle, which separate the coast of Labrador from Ne\vfoimdland. The distance from Cape Rosier, Gaspe Bay, lat. 48° 50' 41", long. 64° 15' 24", to Cape Ray, in Newfoundland, lat. 47° 36' 49", long. 59° 21', is 79 leagues; and from Nova Scotia to Labrador the dis- 1 62 ORIGIN AND KXTENT OP THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE tance ii 100 leftffupii, TJipre are ncverol islands in the Oulf — the one moMt dntigerous to navigaton, fVom itH poRition, the steep- ness of its iborei, and the douno foj^s fre- quent on this coast, is in tlio principal entrance, between Newfoiindlnnd and Cape Breton, in lat. 47° 12' .IH", long. (Wf 11' 24", compass variation, SB" 'rench Canadian, and English and Irish Kcttlcrs, altogether numbering 1000, who carry on a profitable flsherp^. Magdalen isle, the largest, is 17 leagues hi length, but very narrow, being in some places not more than a mile wide. North or the Mugdaleng is Brion's island, and beyond this are the Bird isles or rocks ; the most northerly portion being in lat. 47*' 60' 28", long. OP 18' 53". The river St, Lawrence, from the mag- nificent basin of Lake Superior in East Canada, baa a couinie to the sea of nearly 3,000 miles, and a varying breadth of from 1 to 90 miles. Including the lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron, through wlticli it passes, it is navigable for ship* of a largo class very nearly 2,000 miles, and the remainder of its coiurse for barges, batteaux, and vessels drawing little water, of from 10 to 15 and even 60 tons burthen. The remotest spring of the St. Lawreuoe, if we consider the Canadian lakes as merely extensive widen- ings of it, is the stream called St. Lewis in lat 48° 30" N„ lon^. aliout J)3'' W,, from which its general direction through lakes Superior and Huron in 8,15. to Lake Erie — nearly due E, from that lake, and then N.E. to the Gulf of St, Lawrence. It receives in its majestic course most of the rivers that have their sources in the extensive range of mountains called the Land's Height; and also those intersecting the ridge which commences on its soutli bank, and runs nearly south-west to Lake Chaniploin. From the sea to Montreal, this superb river is called the St, Lawrence, from thence to Kingston in Upper Canada, the Cataraqui or Iroquois; between Lakes Ontario and Erie, the Niagara ; between lakes Erie and St. Clair the Detroit ; between lakes St. Clair and Huron the St. Clair; and between lakes Huron and Superior the distance, is called the Narrows, or Falls of St. Mary. The St. Lawrence discharges into the ocean annually about 4,277,880 milUon of tons of fresh water, of which 2,112,120 million of tons may be reckoned melted snow; the quantity discharged before the thaw comes on, being 4,512 million of tons per day for 240 days, and the quantity after the thaw begins, being 25,560 million per day for 125 days, the depths and velocity when in and out of flood duly considered : hence a ton of water being nearly equal to 55 cubic yards of pure snow, the St. Lawrence frees a country of more than 2,000 miles square, covered to the depth of three feet. According to Mr. M'Taggart, the solid contents in cubic feet of the St. Lawrence, embracing lakes Superior, Huron, Michi- gan, Erie, and Ontario, is estimated at 1,547,792,360,000 cubic feet, and the super- ficial area being 72,930 square miles, the water therein would form a cubic column of nearly 22 miles on each side ! The em» bouche of this noble river is in that part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence where the island of Anticosti divides the mouth of the river into two branches. This island, 130 miles long and 30 broad, has neither bay nor harbour capable of afi'ordiug efficient shelter for shipping in bad weather. The aspect is generally low, but on the north of the island the shore is more elevated, and three lofty mountain peaks, with high table land, relieve the monotonous appearance of so large an ex- tent of flat coimtry. The rivers are of no great magnitude, and too little is known of the soil and nature of the interior to permit a decided opinion being formed on its qual- ity ; from the position of the island it may be supposed to be alluvial : it is as yet unin- habited, but as land becomes more valuable, will doubtless be colonized. In 1828 the crew of the Granieus were shipwrecked on this island, and unable to obtain any sustenance on its uncultivated shores, they were driven by the fearful cravings of hunger to cannabalism, and the last wretched beiug is supposed to have perished for want of any more of his unfor- tunate companions to prey on. The bones and mangled remains of the slain, were found scattered about on the wild coast of Anticosti, as if a struggle had taken place in the last extremity. lie island the river JO broad, ipable of Ipping ill rally low, 1 shore is mountain jlieve the ge an ex- axe of no known of to permit -, its qual- id it may H yet unin- fe valuable, nicus were . unable to Incultivated fche fearful Im, and the fcd to have |f lus unfor- The bones [slain, were Hid coast of I taken place ISLANDS IN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 53 Two light-houses have been erected on the island, one at the east point, the other at the south-west. The ship-channel be- tween Anticosti and the main land of East Canada is about 40 miles broad. On passing this island, the river St. Law- rence expands to a breadth of 00 miles; and in mid-channel both coasts arc visible, the mountains on the north shore having their snow capt crests elevated to a vast height, and appearing more continuous in their outline than the Fyrenean range. At the Bay of Seven Islands, which de- rives its name from the high and rugged islands which lie at its entrance, the St, Lawrence is 70 miles broad. There is deep water close to the islands, which appear to rise abruptly out of the sea; the centre of the bay forms a large basin, with a depth of from 10 to 60 fathoms; at its hean, the land appears to sink low in the horizon, while that on each side is high and rugged. From Seven Islands Bay to Pointe aux P^res, there is little to attract attention, except two very extraordinary mountains, close to each other, called the Paps of Ma- tane, nearly opposite to which is the bold and lofty promontory of Mont Pelle, where the river is little more than 25 miles wide. After passing Isle St. Bamab^, the voyager arrives at Bic island (153 miles from Que- bec), which is three miles in length, and nearly one in breadth. Good anchorage is found here. The adjoining seigniory of Bic on the main land is mountainous, and very uneven. Proceeding onwards, several beautiful groups of islands are passed in succession, riz., Qreen island, Red island. Hare island, . Kamouraska island, the Pilgrims, Brandv I Pots, and a variety of others, all wooded, < and some of them inhabited and culti^ atcd. j The Brandy Pots cluster is about 103 miles I from Quebec. Opposite Green island, on the north shore, is the mouth of the Saguenay , river. The St. LaAvrence is here 20 miles ! wide, with an average depth of 12 fathoms ; i and the village of Kamouraska in the county and seigniory of the same name, is a fa- vourite watering place of the Canadians. The moimtains on both sides are very lofty, often terminating in capes or bold head- lands, and producing an imposing effect ; in general, and especially on the south side, a low, level, and cultivated tract of land, of various breadth, intervenes between the river and the mountain range, and the de- i Ucious verdure of its corn fields contrasts finely with the sombre hue of the pine forests in the elevated and over-shadowing back ground. The cultivated Isle aux Coudrcs next meets the eye, and is followed by a delightful prospect of the settlement of the Bay of St. Pavd, enclosed within au amphitheatre of high hills. The Isle aux Coudres is 5 miles in length and 16 in circumference, and is distant about 2 miles from the north shore of the St. Lawrence river, and nearly opposite the Bay of St. Paul : compared with the neigh- bouring land it is low, but becomes more elevated towards the centre. The shore in a few places rises abruptly from the water, and is thickly covered with shrubs and creeping plants; in general, however, it is of easy ascent, and rendered picturesque by the numerous farms on it. The island wes granted in 1687 to the ecclesiastics of the seminaiy of Quebec, to whom it still belongs. Although the breadth of the river is 18 miles, the navigation here becomes difficult, owing to the narrowness of the main ship-channel called the Traverse, which is contracted to 1,320 yards, by the Isle aux Coudrcs, the shoal of St. Roch, and English bank. There are two other channels, but the rapidity of the carrent is much greater in them than in the Traverse, and the holding-ground bad ; notwithstanding, with a good pilot and a favourable wind, there is little or no risk. Where the river du Sud forms a large basin, and disembogues into the St. La^vrence, the latter is 11 miles in breadth, and the country assumes a charm- ing aspect ; the succession of villages, churches, telegraph stations, and farm- houses, all painted white, produce a dazzling contrast to the dark woods which clothe the rising grounds in the distance to their very summits, and present a landscape of varied beauty. Before arriving at the island of Orleans (four miles north-east of Quebec), Qooso and Crane island . and many smaller ones (almost all inhabited), are passed. Orleans, or Isle St. Laurent, 19 nules long, five and a half broad, and comprising an area of about 69 square miles, divides the river into two channels. The shores decline gradually to the beach, but the land rises considerably towards the western extremity of the isle, which is richly tilled by a popu- lation numbering 5,000, who derive much advantage from the sale of their horticul- tural and agricultural products in the neigh- bouring markets of Quebec. The south channel is always used by ships ; the main- 64 CITADEL OF QUEBEC AND ADJOINING COUNTRY. land oppofite in Infty, and in somo places niountainouR, but no wnll cultivated that a large tract in the vicinity of the Sud, which flowi throush a picturesque, extensive, fer- tile, and thickly settled country, has long been familiarly called the granary of the province. Tlie country below and above Quebec for some distance presents scenery whoso beauty is unequalled in America, and probably in the world. From the eminence over which the post-rond passes, or in sailing up the St. Lawrence, there arc frequent prospects of immense extent and variety, consisting of lofty mountains, wide valleys, bold head- lands, luxuriant forests, cultivated fields, pretty villages and settlements, some of them stretcning up along the mountains: — fertile islands, with neat white cottages, rich Eiosturcs and well-tended flocks; — rocky ilets, and tributary rivers, some roUing over precipices, and one of them, the Saguenay, ike an inland mountain-lake, bursting through a perpendicular chasm in the gra- nitic chain ; while on the bosom of the St. Lawrence, with a breadth varying &om 10 to 20 miles, ships, brigs, and schooners, either under sail or at anchor, with innum- erable pilot-boats and river craft, in active motion, charm the eye of the immigrant or traveller. The scenery, on approaching Quebec, is truly magnificent; on the left, point Levi, with its romantic church and cottages ; on the right, the western part of Orleans isle, which closely resembles our own sweet Devonshire coast ; beyond, the lofty main- land opens to view, and the spectator's attention is riveted by the magnificent falls of Montmorenci, a river oa large as the Thames at Richmond, which precipitates its vast volume of constantly flowing waters over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in height; the eye then runs along miles of richly cultivated country, terminating in a riage of mountains, with the city and battlements of Quebec, rising in the form of an amphitlicatre, cresting, as it were, the ridge of Cape Diamond, and majestically towering above the surrounding country, as if destined to be the capital of an empire. Ktymologists have exercised their inge- nuity in tracing the origin of the word Quebec : some suppose it an Indian word signifying a strait: others are of opinion that it arose from the Normans exclaiming when they first beheld the lofty promontory — ■" Quel-Bee I" — It is even said tliat the t ! city owes its name to a place on the Seine, caUed Caudebec, — but Hawkins in his " Pic- ture of Quebec," states the word to be of ' Norman origin, and gives on engraving of a seal belonging to William dc la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, dated in the reign of Henry V., A.D. 1420. The legend or motto runs thus : " Sigillum Willielmi de la Pole, Comitit Si^f- folchite, Domini de Hamburg et de Quebec." Suffolk was impeached by the Commons of England in 1450, and one of the charges against him was his unbounded influence in Normandy, where he lived and ruled like an independent prince; it is not therefore improbable that he enjoyed the French title of Count of Quebec in addition to his English honours. Quebec Citadel is situated upon the N.E. extremity of a rocky ridge or promon- tory, called Cape Diamond, 350 feet above the St. Lawrence. The cape extends into the St. Ijawrcnce towards point Levi on the opposite or right bank of the river, which is at this spot less than a mile in width. The citadel (see Map, East Canada) is built on the peak of the promontory. About 40 acres are covered with the works, which are carried to the edge of the precipice. About 100 feet below the cliff on which the citadel is built is the elevated plain on which the city of Quebec stands, and this within a cir- cuit of 3 miles is enclosed with strong forti- fications connected with the commanding citadel. From the city there is , a rapid descent of 200 feet to the river St. Law- rence, and within the narrow limits of the base of this precipice and the river, the lower town of Quebec is situated, opposite and contiguous to the shipping, where the merchants and traders carry on their useful pursuits. The N. side of the promontory has apparently been chosen as the site of the town, from its slope being more gradual than that on the southward, which is preci- pitous. To the N. the ground decUues gently until within 100 feet of the St. Charles valley, when it becomes precipitous. The St. La^vrence flows to the southward of the city, where it is only 1314 yards wide, washes the base of the steep promontory of Cape Diamond, and receives the waters of the small river St. Chai-les, which flows to the N. of the city, their junction being in front of the town, where they expand into a con- siderable basin of 3| miles long, with a depth of 18 to 28 fathoms, forming the harbour of Quebec. The distance from one river to another across the ridge is rather more than FORTIFICATIONS AND DIVISIONS OF QUEBEC. 55 a mile. On sailing up the river, nothing of the city is seen until the spectator is neariy in a line hetwecn the W. point of Orleans isle and Point Levi, when there suddenly bursts upon the view an abrupt promontory 350 feet high, crowned with an impregnable citadel (the Gibraltar of the New World), surrounded by strong battlements, on which the British banners proudly wave; cathe- drals and churches, warehouses, a fleet of ships at Wolfs Cove, and others at the wharfs ; steamers plying in every direction ; boats of every shape; ships on the stocks, or launching; the waters of the majestic cataract of Montmorenci rushing into the St. Lawrence over the projecting ledge ; the churches, houses, fields, and woods of Beau- port and Charlesbourg, with mountains in the distance; the high grounds, spire, &c. of St. Joseph; some Indian wigwams and canoes near Point Levi, and vast rafts or masses of timber descending the noble river from the forests on the Ottawa. The city, aa before observed, is nominally divided into two parts, called the Upper and Lower towns ; the latter being built at the base of the promontory, level with high water, where the rock has been removed to make room for the houses, which are gener- ally constructed in the old style, of stone, two or three stories high. The streets are narrow and ill ventilated. From the Lower to the Upper town there is a winding street (Mountain-street), extremely steep, which is commanded by judiciously planted cannon, and terminates at an elevation of 300 feet above the river, at the city walls, or " Break Neck Stairs," where the Upper town com- mences, extending its limits considerably to the westward, along the slope of the ridge, and up the promontory towards the Cmc, to within 50 or 60 yards of its summit. The aspect is N., and it is on the whole well ventilated, although the streets are narrow and irregular. There are suburbs to each town; those of the Upper extend along the slope of the ridge called St. John's ; those of the Lower, extend from the St. Charles along the valley called the " Rocks." The influence of the tides, which extend several leagues beyond Quebec, raises the waters at the confluence of the two rivers many feet above their ordinary level, and overflows the St. Charles valley, which rises gradually from the river to the northward, in a gentle slope for a few miles, until it reaches the mountains. This valley and slope is wholly under cultivation, and extremely rich and picturesque. The ridge on which Quebec stands is also cultivated to the westward aa far as Cape Rouge. A range of moun- tains to the northward, limits the extension of cultivation in that direction. In 1662 Quebec did not contain more than 50 inhabitants; in 1759 the population was estimated at between 8 and 9000; in 1825 and 1831 the census gave as follows: — Quebec: — Upper Town . Lower Town . Suburbs of — St. Roch . . St John . . St. Lewis . . Total, exclusive \ oftheBanlieuel of St. John and/ St Lewis . ./ 1825. Houses. Pop. 480 549 1,128 8431 120/ 3,120 4,163 3,035 6,273 6,025 20,306 1831. Pop. 4,498 4,933 7,983 ■ 6,918 1,583 25,916 1848. Pop.' As a fortress Quebec may be ranked in the first cluiis; the citadel on the highest point of Cape Diamond, is defended by a formidable combination of strongly con- structed works; small batteries connected by ramparts, are continued from the edge of the precipice, to the gateway leading to the Lower town, which is commanded by cannon of a large calibre, and the approach to which, up Mountain-street, is enfiladed and flanked by large guns : a line of defence connects with the grand battery a redoubt of great strength, armed with 24 pounders, entirely overlooking the basin and passage of the river. Other lines add to the impregna- bility of Quebec, which, well garrisoned, secure to us the navigation of the St. Law- rence. There are five strong gates in the walls which surroimd the city : the en- trance from the Lowr town is by Prescott- gate. That portion of the promontory which declines in height by successive ridges towards the interior, is fortified by a series of regular works, viz.: a moat, covered way, and glacis, with exterior defences to obstruct an enemy. The face of the city towards the river is so steep, that excepting the passage by Mountain-street, it requires only a wall for its protection. Four Martello towers on the heights of Abraham, in front of the forti- fications range the whole plain to the west- • The population is now about 40,000. 66 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS OP QUEBEC. ward. The armoury of Quebec is Buperior to that of most of the European capitals ; It contains equipments for 25,000 men, which can be furnished at a few hours' notice. On the W. and in front of the citadel, are the celebrated plains of Abraham, on which Wolfe and Montcalm fought and perished, and to whose glorious memory the gallant Earl of Dalhousie has erected an obe- lisk with the following appropriate inscrip- tion: — 'Mortem virtus communem famam historia raonumentum posteritas dcdit. Hanc columnan in virorum illustrium memoriom WoLFB et MoNTCALif, P.C. Gcorgius, Comes de Dalhousie in Septentrionalis Americse partibus ad Britannos, pertincntibus sum- mum rerum administrans ; opus per multos annos prffitermissum, quid duci egregio convenientius?^ Auctoritate promovens, ex- emplo stimulans, miinificentia fovens. A.S. MDCCCXXVII.— Georgio IV. Britannia- rum Rege.' Lord Aylmer, in 1834, erected a small column with the inscription, — "Here died Wolfe in the arms of victory." And Sir Benjamin D'Urban, another brave soldier, in conjunction with the troops under his command in Canada, in 1848 raised a monu- ment in memory of Wolfe on the plains of Abraham, consisting of a column 40 feet high, surmounted by a helmet enriched with laurel and a sword; after the design of a distinguished soldier and intelligent tra- veller. Sir James Alexander. A great number of elegant and commo- dious public buildings adorn Quebec — such as the Hotel Dieu, the Ursuliue Convent, the Jesuit's Monastery (now a barrack), the Protestant and Catholic Cathedrals, the Scotch Church, Lower Town Church, Trinity and Wesleyan Chapels, Exchange, Bank, Court House, Hospitals, Barracks, Gaol, Seminary, &c. The Roman Catholic cathe- dral is 216 feet long by 180 broad, and is capable of containing a congregation of 4000 people. It has a lofty dome, which pro- duces an imposing effect. The religious ser- vices are performed with much ceremony; the bishop and 50 priests sometimes ofScia- ting. The Protestant cathedral, 136 feet long by 75 broad, is built in a plain style, and from its pure and simple taste, and neat spire, is much admired. The Scotch church is of less magnitude. Of three nunneries at Quebec, two have hospitals attached, in which great relief is administered to the poor. The Hotel-Dieu, founded in 1637 by the Duchess d'AiguiUon, includes a convent, church, cemetery, gardens, and on excellent hospital, where the prioress and 32 nuns are continu- ally employed in ministering to the sick. The Ursuline convent, founded in 1639, by Madame de la Peltrie, is in the centre of the city, surrounded by five gardens. The nuns, 46 in number, maintain a strict seclusion, but educate many of their own sex. The embroidery, especially for sacerdotal robes, &c., is highly celebrated. The grand parade in front of the caatle, surrounded by the principal edifices; the esplanade along the exterior wall, where the troops are reviewed; the market-place, 250 feet long by 150 broad; and the noble aspect of many of'^the buildings, bothpubUc and pri- vate, give an animated appearance to the city. On the 28th May, and on the 28th June, 1845, two great fires occurred, which des- troyed much of the Lower town, an.d the dwellings of 20,000 of its inhabitants. The conflagration destroyed part of St. Yallier, all St. John suburbs, part of St. Lewis, nearly all St. Roche, and the west part of the Lower town gate. Many of the houses were built with wood after the French fashion. The first fire extended a mile through a densely peopled suburb before if| could be checked. The town in general is pretty much like an English or rother a French city, except that the houses are mostly roofed with shin- gles (small pieces of thin wood); many of the best houses, public buildings, and great warehouses, are, however, covered with tin or iron plates, which, owing to the dryness of the cUmate, retain their brightness for many years. There are several distilleries, breweries, tobacco, soap, candle, and other manufactories; and every description of tradesmen may be found in the Upper and Lower town. Many of the shops, or as they are called in America, stores, are fitted out with taste, and in most of them every variety of goods, from a needle to an anchor, or a ribbon to a cable, is to be found. A steam- ferry plies constantly between Quebec and the opposite shore at Point Levi. In severe winters this channel is completely frozen over, and a line of road is marked with beacons, by which provisions, hay, wood, &c., are conveyed to the metropolis. Many ships arc built at Quebec. On the W. point of Orleans were built the Columbui and the Baron of Renfreio, those vast levia- thans of the deep which human ingenuity contrived to float on its bosom. These ocean castles were strongly framed, timbered and planked as lesser sized vessels, and not weig MONTREAL AND THE SUlMluUNDINO COUNTRY. 57 put together like rafts aa generally supposed. The length of the Columbia on deck was 320 feet, breadth 50, extreme depth 40 feet, and she had four gigantic masts, with every appurtenance in pronortiun; 8,000 tons weight were put on Doard of her before launching. It may be remembered that she reached England safely, and was water- logged on her return to Canada; the equally huge Baron of Renfrew reached the Thames, and was wrecked off Gravelincs. Proceeding onwards the St. Lawrence again widens after passing Quebec, while the banks, gradually losing the elevation ob- servable at Cape Diamond, become sloping, and delightfully varied with groves, churches, white cottages, orchards, and com fields, until arriving at Richelieu Rapid, 45 miles above Quebec J thence to Three Rivera (52 miles), there is little change in the general aspect of the banks of the St. Lawrence, the high lands receding to the N. and S. with a low but cultivated country. About 6 miles above Three Rivers, the St. Lawrence ex- pands itself over a level country, and forms Lake St. Peter, wWcli is about 20 miles in length, by 15 in breadth, but very shallow. At the head of the delta of the lake, the St. Lawrence receives the comparatively small but beautiful river Richelieu; in some places called Chambly — at others, Sorel. To Montreal (90 miles from Three Rivers) the scenery is varied rather by the hand of man than by nature, with the exception of numerous alluvial and richly tilled islets; many parts are picturesque and highly culti- vated, there being a succession of parishes mostly consecrated to the memory of some saint, and so thickly peopled aa to appear one continued village; the N. shore, through which the post-road passes, is the most populous. Montreal, fbrmerly the Indian village of Hoehelaga, now the capital of the province of Canada, in 45° 31' N. lat., is situate upon the N. or left bank of the St. Lawrence, at the head of the ship navigation of the river, about 600 miles from the sea, and upon the southernmost point of an island bearing the same name, which is formed by the river St. Lawrence on the S., and by a branch of the Ottawa, or Grand River, on the N. The island is 33 miles long, by 10 to 12 broad : its surface is an almost uniform flat, with the exception of an isolated hill or mountain on its "W. extremity, which rises from 500 to 600 feet higher than the river level. Along its base, and particularly up its sides, VOL. I. are thickly interspersed corn-fields, orchards, and villas, above which, to the very summit of the mountain, trees grow in luxuriant variety. The prospect from its summit, thoui{h wanting the sublime grandeur of the view from Cape Diamond at Quebec, is ex- ceedingly picturesque: on the south, the blue hills of Vermont, and all around a vast extent of thickly inhabited, richly cultivaten and fertile country, embellished with woods, waters, churches, cottages, and farms — be- low it the placid city of Montreal — ^its ship- ping and river craft, and the fortified island of St. Helena, altogether producing a scene of soft and singular beauty. In IfrtO, the spot on which the city stands contained an Indian village, in which the French formed a missionary station. Within a mile to the N.W. of the town the range of the moun- tain gradually declines for a few miles to the W. and N., to the level of the surrounding country. The bank of the river upon which Montreal is built, has a gradual elevation of from 20 to 30 feet, but declines in the rear of the town, where there is a canal to carry off any accumulation of water: the land then again rises towards the N. to a higher ridge. The wharfs are said to be better than any other similar structures in Ame- rica, and consist of a range of massive masonry more than a mile in extent. The harbour odds greatly to the beauty of the city, and from the "Forwarding Houses" on the La Chine canal, to the foot of the cur- rent of St. Mary, a distance of 2 miles, the river St. Lawrence is covered with ships, steamers, barges, and boats of every descrip- tion, during the time the navigation is open. Extensive basins are being constructed along the enlarged La Chine canal, to afford the means of steam-boat communication with the great lakes ; and a channel is be- ing deepened in Lake St. Peter, to render it navigable for vessels of a large draught of water. By means of steam-tugs from Que- bec to Montreal, 180 miles distance, the Canadian metropolis will probably become one of the most important seaports in Ame- rica. The city, comprised within the Upper and Lower town, is divided into wards, and in 1844 the number of inhabitants in each ward was: — St. Mary, 12,285 ; St. Lawrence, 12,235; Queen's, 13,571; West, 2,285; East, 1,912; Central, 1,805. Total, Males, 20,404; Females, 23,191, in 6,252 houses. Of these 19,041 were French Canadians; 8,863 British ditto ; Enfjlish, 3,161 ; Scotch, '■2,712; Irish, 2,990; United States, 701; I i M PUBTJC BUILDINGS IN THE CITY OF MONTREAL. from other placci, 212. In 1844 there lic- longcd to the Churdi of Rome, 20,280 citizena ; 6,700 to the Church of England, 4,340 to the Church of Scotland ; and 4,255 off other and varioun denominations. The far largest portion of the capital and enter- prise of Montreal belongs to the inhabitants of British origin. The good taste, liberality, and zealous endeavours of the Hon. Jamei* M'Oill contributed greatly to the adornment of this handsome and prosperous city. The Hdtel-Dieu, a conventual structure, and the Montreal Qencral Hospital, built in 1822, by voluntary subscription, at a cost of £6,000, are excellent charities. The St. Sulpiciaii "Seminary is a large building, occu- pying three sides of a square adjoining the cathedral. In this institution, and in the M'Oill College, all branches of learning are taught at moderate charges. The large nunnery of Ndtre-Dame has a superior and 60 sisters, who receive boarders at a small charge, and prepare teachers, whom they send to diilerent districts. Another large nunnery, called the Soeurs-Oris (Grey Sis- ters), consists of a superior and 24 nuns, who admit into their spacious and charitable mansion the infirm poor, where, in a chris- tian spirit, they administer spiritual consola* tion, food, and medicine. There ore several handsome English and Scotch churches' The English Episcopal church is a Hue building with a lofty xpire. Wholi; > treets of private buildings, many of thrni outside the city (whose entrenchments have been levelled some years since), have been re- cently constructed. Various public struc- tures belonging to banks and corporate mstitutions adorn the capital. During the riots of 1840, on the passing of the Rebellion Losses Indemnity Bill, the building in which the Canadian Parliament met was burnt by the mob, and the library of the Legislature, one of the most valuable in British America, was destroyed. The city and private houses are lit by a gas company, and the corpo- ation possess extensive water- works. '! he Harbour Commissioners have expended upwards of £100,000 on the improvement of the harbour, which affords a revenue of mnre than £10,000 a-year. The three wrinc'.pal streets are parallel with the river, and ii'tersect each other at right angles j the liouses .''-^ for ^>ie moat part of a greyish st'-ne. I -<)>.• u W'tii sheet iron or tin: many of ',Vr;. -^'t; uau' • )me strr ,urcs. Among tho vn.icipji o^ihces are the H6tel-Dieu, the IVjjivert nt' Notre Dane, the General Hospital, the New College, IIApital G^n^ral dci Sccuni Oris, the French Catliedral, Eng- lish and Scotch churches. Court House, Oovcniment House, Nelson's Monuiheil, Barracks, Gaol, &c., &c. The R(nian Ca- tholic cathedral is the most splendid temple of worship in the New World, and its exte- rior grandeur is scarcely surpassed in the Old. It was commenced in 1824, finished in 1820, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In length it is 255 fuet, in breadth 134, ani the height of the walls, which are faced with cut stone, is 112 feet. Tlie architecture is of the rich Gothic of the thirteenth century. It has six massive towers, between which is a promenade along the covered roof 25 feet wide, elevated 112 feet. Tliere are 7 chapels and altars, and spacious r i dei: the high altar resembling that of St. Peter'>i at Rome — the pulpit that of Sirasburg cathedral. The E. window behind tlio grand altar is 70 feet high by 33 feet broad ; the other windows 36 feet by 10. It is sur- rounded by a fine terrace, and its chime of bells, clocks, altars, &c., correspond with the magnificent exterior. This magnificent struc- ture contains 1244 pews, and will accom- modate 12,000 persons, who may disperse in 6 minutes by 5 public and 3 private entrances. There are various public institu- tions in Montreal, which indicate the ad- vanced state of the colony. The University College has Professors of Divinity, Classics, Mathematics, Natural Philosophy, Medicine, Surgery, Midwifery, Anatomy, Materia Me- dica. There is a College of Medicine for i.istruetion in all branches of the healing art. Among the other institutions are the High School of Montreal, Baptist College, Congre- gational Theological Institute, Royal Gram- mar School, National School, British and Canadian School, Free ditto. Natural His- tory Society, Mechanics' Institute, Mutual Instruction Society, Shokespear Club, several public libraries beloiicjing to difl'crent asso- ciated bodies; I'.itiono^ --oi 'ijties of St. George, St. Patriot, '^'t " ii.'-w, Germ,T and St. Jean Br , > ist , 'h/. ;s Religioi.j, Bible and Miss., m j^ Tract and Sunday- School Associations. Benevolent institu- tions, viz. : — the Montreal General Hospital, Lying-in Hospital, Dispensaries, Lunatic, Magdalen, and Orphan Asylums: 6 Turf, Cricket, and Curling Clubs, four " Free- masons and 8 " Odd-fellows' "Lodges. In the extent and importance of her trade — in the beauty of her public and private buildings — in the gay appearance of her THE OTTAWA ^r OKAND RIVER— ITS SCENKRY. M ■hops, and iii all the rxtcmal ligim of wealth, Montreal it rapidly iiu r «ing. Its population in 1826 win* 22,.%. ; iit 1K31, 27,297; in IftW, by censii- 44,()93; «/ ' the city, together with the hu< rbs and the remainder of the island, ure estimated at 70,000. The whole island is comprised in one seigniory, and belongs to the St. .' il- picians, who are consequently possessed of much power, which, however, they use with naod';ration, and are by no means rigorous 11 exacting the lodt et ventet due to them o 1 the mutation of land, which arc usually c: '.npoundcd for. The Ottawa, or Grand River, divides Eastern and Western Canada, and lias a course between Montreal and Lake Temis- caming of above 350 miles in length ; but if we regard this lake as only an extension of the river, in the same manner as we have alreadv done Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, Superior, &c., while examining the course of the St. Lawrence, we must attribute the source of the river to a remote spot in the interior, more than 100 miles from Lake Temiscaming. On this lake the Hudson Bay Company have a trading post, but of the surrounding country we have no accu- rate description — indeed, the upper part of the river above the Falls and Portage des Allumettes, is little used except by the fur- traders, though up to vliat point it is regu- larly frequented by the lumberers, who find profitable and abundant employment in floating down the river, in rafts constructed for the purpose, vast quantities of pine and oak. The natural obstructions to this traffic have been greatly removed by several slides erected in various parts of the Ottawa and its tributaries. At the Allumettes, the Ottawa divides into two channels, the one passing N.E., the other S.W. of an island 15 miles long by 4 broad, which is said 'o be eminently fertile and fast settling ; it then forms three small lakes called the Allumettes, the Mud, and the Musk Rat. Eight miles below the junction of these channels is Fort Coulange, a trading port of the Hudson's Bay company, near which is a flourishing settlement. Four miles fmther south, the Ottawa again divides, and forms an island 20 miles in length by 7 in breadth, called the Grand Calnmet, and the rapids and falls at this point are exteediogly grand. There are four principal chutes, — one, esf>edally being wild and romantic in the extreme, from the narrow, lofty, and pre- cipitous chiuuicl down which the vast tt»- n (If rushes with tcrrillc violence, as if rottwd Id fury by the opposition it hud met with in 'ts mighty rarccr, TIk' effect i» •rr('ii.tly heighten' d by tSu- closi vieinity ib which iUe traveller may behold this mag- nificent cataract Vnother of these (Wlls Mr. Barker (an eye-witn<>»'i doscrilies us having a peculiiir eharacter. He Hpeiiks of tins water m falling at first in the shape of a horse-shoe, ])ljirid and smooth as glass or oil, until it meets in the C( itre of the chute, and changes at once into noisy boding foam. He also mentions a slwln, over which im- mense quantities of n\\ pine arc annually carried, excavated in catual form out of the solid rock on the island side of the chutes. It was built by the provincial government in IM'l at a cost of more than iill,000. For the next 10 miles after leaving the cascades, the Ottawa 's pictitrcsquely diver- sified by groups of beautiful and richly wooded islets, which "teijurate it into nu- merous channels, thr ugh which the im- petuous waters rush vith various degrees of violence, while the imaatic singularity of the prospect is cnliu locd by the banks being chiefly composed of white marble, which 'nay be traced or several miles. At the ^ •! of this wild ibyrinth of wood and waler the magnificent Lake dcs Chats meets the view; its extrenio length is 15 miles, and its average brca( th 1, but several deep bays encroach upon the land, and extend its breadth in place's to nearly 3 miles. On the E. Canada side :ire the town- ships of Onslow, Clarendon, ind Litchfield ; and on the west side arc those of Macnab, Horton, and Ross. The town hip of Bristol also is in a flourishing state. Three rivers, the Mississippi (or Nisisippii the Mada- waska, and the Boueherc , emp y themselves into the lake, and are fine streams, much used by the lumberers ; thei shores are gradually being cultivated, and ven in the interior there are several sett id tracts of land. Richly wooded islets ado a the lake, which is also distinguished by the singu- larly glassy appearance pecuUar to the wa- ters of the lovely Ottawa. Kinnell Lodge, and other mansions, are romantically situated on the south bank of the lake, a few miles below tha Rapides des Chats, which are 3 miles iong, and pass amid a labyrinth of islands, through which they rush with great violence, ter- minating in the Falls dcs Chats, that to 60 LAKES AND RAPIDS ON THE OTTAWA. the unmber of 15 or 16, extend in a curved line across the river. The Falls are divided by wooded islands, and are from 16 to 20 feet in height. The bed of the Ottaiva then contracts, but about six miles below this point it again expands, and forms the basin of Lake Chaudiere, which is 18 miles long by 5 broad, and terminates like the Lake des Chats in rapids, which dash on through the small grove-clad islets with difl'erent degrees of violence, until they reach the vortex of those broken, irregular, and extra- ordinary chasms called the Great and Little Chaudiere (Kettle). Tlie principal falls are 60 feet in height by 213 in width, and an immense basin of circular rock attracts by forcible indraught a considerable pro- portion of the boiling waters, while those beneath, in their violent struggle to escape, send up clouds of spray which conceal the bottom of the cataract, and ascend, at in- tervals, above its summit. A large portion of the water being unaccounted for, is sup- posed to escape by subterraneous channels, for half a mile further down the river the I water comes boiling up, it is said, from the I Chaudiere. Among the strange tales told concerning these Mis, is one of a cow having been one morning carried over by the waters into the Little Chaudiere, and coming up uninjured at Fox Point, 10 miles down the river. Immediately below these falls, where the stream still rushes in .rapid eddies, bridges have been thro^vn over it, and offer singular specimens of science and skill, placed as they are by the side of one of nature's grandest and most wild objects. I The chain of these union bridges, as they i are called from their connecting Eastern j and Western Canada, consists of four prin- I cipal parts, two of which are truss bridges, I overhanging the channels, and unsupported I by piers ; a third is a straight wooden j bridge, and a fourth is built partly of drj' i stone (with two cut lime-stone arches) and i partly of wood. The truss bridge over the broadest chan- nel is 212 feet long, 30 feet wide, and 40 above the surface of the Ottawa. The township of Eiirdly extends along Lake Chaudiere, and is followed by the important and rapidly increasir^ settlement of Hull, which is watered by the large river Gati- ucau, and contains valualile mines of iron and quarries of marble. Below the Chaudiere Falls and union bridges, the Ottawa lias an uninterrupted navigation for steam-boats to Grenvillc, 60 miles distant. The current is gentle, the river banks low and generally flooded in spring to a considerable distance, espe- cially on the nortli or Lower Canada side, but though the scenery is somewhat tame, it ^a always pleasinp^, and as described by colonel Boucliette, the frequently varying width of the river — its numerous islands — the luxuriant foliage of its banks — and the growing settlements appearing here and there on the skirts of the forest, or the margin of the stream, in themselves pos- sessed of sufficient interest to preserve from monotony this part of " Ottawa's tide." At Grenville commences the impetuous rapid termed the Long Sault, which is only descended by voyageurs, or raftsmen of experienced skill and energy. Below Long Sault the Ottawa continues, at intervals, rapid and nnnavigable as far as Point For- tune (immediately opposite the east outline of Chatham), where it expands into the lake of the Two Mountains, and finally forms a junction with the St. Lawrence river below the cascades, where the remark- able hue of the waters of the Ottawa strongly contrasting with the blueish-green of those of the St. Lawrence, renders the line of confluence distinctly visible. The Ottawa region is Avithin the tem- perate zone; in general level, or moderately undulating, well watered, and covered with fine timber, which affords an unfailing source of remunerative employment. The Bytown tract extending for 200 miles, from the embouche of the Ottawa to the Upper AUumettes lake gently slopes to the river, has extensive level tracts of fertile soil, and is the chief seat of the Ottawa settlers. The progress of Bytown, on the right biink of the Ottawa^ has been very rapid; in 1831 it contained only 150 wooden houses. The Saffuenay River rises in Lake St. John, which is situated between 48° 27' and 48° 51' N. lat., and is about 100 miles in circumference. It has a course of 108 miles before its junction with the river St. Lawrence, 100 miles below Quebec; it varies in width, and its passage, like that of other American rivers, is interrupted by foaming torrents. At its confluence with the St. Lawrence at Tadoussae in lat. 48° 5', long. 69° 37', the Sagncnay discharges not less than 2,500,000 cubic feet of water per hour, double the quantity that the St. Lawrence sends past Quebec. The depth at its mouth in mid-channel has not been asi ci'taiued ; captain Martin could not find THE SAGUENAY RIVER AND SCENERY. 61 bottom with 330 fathoms of line ; two miles higher the soundings were 140 fathoms, and at 70 miles from the St. Lawrence, from 50 to 60 fathoms. It has been since stated, that a ridge of rocks below the sur- face of the water, lies across the Saguenay's mouth, through which there is a channel 120 feet deep, and that in the middle the depth increases to 840 feet; if this be so, the bed of the Saguenay must, necessarily, be 600 feet below that of the St. Lawrence, into which it falls. Its reported terrific whirlpools do not exist. Thirty rivers pour their tributary waters into the Saguenay, many of them navigable for large boats. The banks of this noble stream vary from 200 to 2,000 feet in height, rising in some places perpendicularly from the river's side ; the scenery throughout being wildly mag- nificent. Tlie cliffs of the Capes de la Trinitd beetle over the broad, rapid and deep torrent to the elevation of 1,800 feet, and sink plomb down 900 feet below its surface. An experienced traveller who visited the Saguenay in 1845, says — "the whole descent from Ha-Ha Bay to Tadoussac can be compared to nothing that I have ever seen for the magnificence and extent of its scenery, unless, perhaps, to the pas- sage through the highlands of the Hudson, if you can imagine that chain of heights cor.tiuued for 40 miles, and its elevation increased some h'.uidreds of feet." The Point aux Bouleaux and the land for some distance on the west side of its mouth, are alluvial deposits, containing probably the richest soil in the world, being composed of a species of soapy-grey marl, from 30 to 40 feet deep. There is a very remarkable harbour, 40 miles from the mouth of the Saguenay, called Bay de Has, or Ha-Ha Bay, capable of affording shelter to the largest ships of the line, and to the whole navy of England, which; may sail directly into the bay with the same wind that brought them to its entrance. The bay is from 7 to 9 miles in length, and 2i in width, >vith good anchorage varying from 15 to 35 fathoms. Ha-Ha Bay opens into another ])ay or basin. Vast tracts of arable land, with a rich soil of blue and grey marl, sur- round these singular bays, extending to Lake Kiguagomi, which is joined to the Saguenay by the circuitous route of the Chicoutimi river. In the neighbourhood of Ha-Ha Bay, which is surrounded by hills, a European settlement has been commenced ; and the saw-mills belonging to Mr. Price have encouraged cultivaticu iu the interior. Orain, especially oats, thrive, as do also potatoes. The fixed population is about 5,000. There are several sawing mill estab- lishments around Ha-Ha Bay, and also above and below it on the Saguenay, which is well adapted for water power. TTie saw logs, though not so large in butt and stem as the produce of the Ottawa, or of New Brunswick, grow to a considerable height, and being more free from knots, furnish deals of a closer and better grain. Proceeding from Ha-Ha Bay towards Chicoutimi, 18 miles higher up, the river has for 8 miles a width of about 2; its banks become much less elevated, and at the end of that distance it narrows to about half a mile, and diminishes greatly iu depth. Farms, well-built wooden habitations, and crops of grain, potatoes, and hay, are to be seen in every sheltered nook or ravine running down to the river. The place has been settled by squatters from Malbay and St. Paul's Bay. Groups of well con- ditioned horses, and herds of fiue cattle, speak well for the condition of the district. The Hudson's Bay Company have a post at Chicoutimi (60 miles from Tadoussac), con- sisting of a good store and out-buildings, near which is a little old chapel, built by the Jesuits in 1726, for the converted In- dians of tho Moutaignais tribes. The mixed growth of timber here, consisting of maple, black and white birch, and spruce, indicates the strength of the soil, which appears to be a blue clayey loam. The government has laid out a town-plot on the point opposite the Hudson's Bay Company ; and a new and valuable settlement will, doubtless, be formed, not only for the samng of timber, but also for the pro- duction of food. A few other rivers of East Canada which empty themselves into the St. Lawrence, require to be briefly noticed. Proceeding from the Ottawa down the St. Lawrence on the northern shore, we arrive at the St. Maurice or Three Rivers, which although of inconsiderable depth, is inferior n that respect only to the Ottawa and Saguenay. It drains an extent of eoimtry more than 140 miles in length, and from 20 to 100 in breadth, equivalent to 8,400 square miles. The source of the stream is a large lake called Oskelanaio, near the skirts of the N.W. ridge of mountains. Its course is generally from N. to S., inclining a little to 62 THE ST. MAURICE, CHAMPLAIN, AND MONTMORENCI RIVERS. the eastward, and receiving many tributary rivulets and lakes during its progress. Among the former are the Kasikan, Pis- nay, Ribbon, Windigo, Vermillion, Bastonais, Rat, Mattouin, and Shawenegan. After passing the falls of the last-named river, the St. Maurice turns again to the south, and has its embouche in the St. Lawrence below the town of Three Rivers, where it forms several islands. The banks of the St. Mau- rice are generally high, and covered with large groups of fine majestic trees ; naviga- tion for boats is practicable ior 38 leagues to La Tuque, with the exception of the portages. At Wemontichinque in 47° N. the St. Maurice is divided into three branches, of which the W. forms an extraordinary chain of lakes and navigable waters, 23 in number, varying in size, and having in many places a depth of 40 fathoms. There are about 14 small islands of different sizes in various parts of the St. Maurice, and there are a variety of falls and cascades of greater or less extent. Those of Grand Mere, about 4 miles above the H^tres fall or cascade, are extremely beautiful and have a perpendicular descent of 30 feet. The stupendous falls of the Shawenegan, 6i miles lower than the H^tres, are magnificent, the fall being 150 perpendicular feet ; — the river rushing with terrific violence in two channels against the face of the cliff below, then reuniting, the vast and foaming toiTent forces its way through a narrow passage not more than 30 yards wide. Before quitting the St. Maurice, it may be proper to observe, that the large river Aux Lievres, which has a course of up- wards of 150 miles to the Ottawa, anasta- moses with the St. Maiuice, by means of a chain of lakes. Champlain lUver rises in the Seignory of Cap de la Magdelaine; running N.E., it traverses the country to Champlain, enters Batiscan, where it turns S., and after form- ing the boundary between the latter seigniory and Champlain, it falls into the St. Law- rence. This river, though of small size, is deserving of notice from an extraordinary circumstance, stated to have occurred on its banks a few years ago, which presents a similarity to the moving bogs in Ireland. A large tract of land containing a superficies of 207 arpents was instantaneously moved 360 yards from the edgn of the water and pre- cipitated into the river, which it dammed up to a distance of 26 arpents, and by obstruct- ing the waters, caused them lo swell to an extraordinary height : this singular event was accompanied by an appalling sound, and a dense and suffocating vapour, as of pitch or sulphur, filled the atmosphere. My authority for this statement is Colonel Bou- chette ; it appears to corroborate the truth of the great Canadian earthquake of 1663. Montmorend River, also a tributary of the St. Lawrence, rises in the Lac des Neiges; and flows in a continued current, until it forms the celebrated cataract of Montmorenci, where its breadth is from 16 to 20 yards, and the height of the fall about 250 feet, 100 more than that of Niagara ; but the volume of water is comparatively small. A slight declination in the bed of the river before it reaches the fall, gives great velocity to the stream, which is precipitated over the brink of the perpendicular rock in an extended sheet of a fleecy appearance. Immense clouds of spray rise from the bot- tom in curling vapours, and present an inconceivably beautiful variety of prismatic colours. The late Duke of Kent resided in a house close to the falls, which commanded a beautiful view of one of the most pic- turesque scenes in America. Chaudiere River rises from Lake Megan- tick, and waters a country of 100 miles in length, by about 30 in breadth, thus clearing nearly 3,000 square miles of territory of its redundant waters : in breadth it varies from 400 to 600 yards; and is frequently divided by islands, some of them containing many acres, and covered wdth timber-trees. The banks of the Chaudiere are in general high and steep, tliickly clothed vrith wood; the bed of the river is rugged, and often much contracted by rocks jutting out from the sides, which occasion violent rapids ; one of the most celebrated of these is about four miles from its mouth. Narrowed by salient points extending from each side, the preci- pice over which the waters rush is scarcely more than 130 yards in breadth, while the height from which they descend is as many feet ; huge masses of rock rising above the surface of the current at the break ox the fall, divide the stream into three portions, forming partial cataracts which unite before reaching the basin which receives them be- low. The deep excavations the continual action of the water has worn in the rock, give a globular figure to the revolving bodies of brilliant white foam ; the spray spread by the wind, produces in the sunshine a splen- did variety of prismatic colours, while the dark-hued foliage on either side, pressing close on the margin of the river, forms a THE CHAUDIERE, ST. FRANCIS, AND RICHELIEU RIVERS. 63 striking contrast with the snowlike efful- gancfc of the falling torrent; indeed, few falls can be compared with chose of the Chaudi^e for picturesque beauty. St. Francis River, S. of the Chaudifere, flows through a fine country, in which the valuable territories of the British American Land Company is situated. The St. Francis passes that portion of the St. Lawrence called Lake St. Peter, and has a water com- munication to the district town of Sher- brooke, a distance of about 70 miles. The tiibutaries of the St. Francis — the Salmon, Eaton, Coaticook, Massawippi, Magog, &c. — ^water a country of great beauty ; hUl and dale, river and lake, forest and meadow, meet in succession the eye of the traveller. The surrounding districts, called the eastern townships, were considered by Lord Syden- ham one of the finest parts of Canada. There are two remarkable lakes in this neighbourhood, namely, Matapediac and Memphramagog. The former is about 16 miles long, and 3 broad in its greatest breadth; about 21 miles distant from the St. Lawrence river in the co. of Rimouski, amidst the highlands that divide the waters run- ning into the St. Lawrence, froin those that run to the Bay of Chaleur, it is navigable for rafts of all kinds of timber, with which the banks of the noble river Matapediac are thickly covered. Memphramagog Lake, in the CO. of Stanstead, stretching its southern extremity into the state of Vermont, is of a semi-circular shape, 30 miles long, and very narrow. It empties itself into the fine river St. Francis, by means of the river Magog, which runs through Lake Seaswaninepus. The Memphramagog Lake is said to be navi- gable for ships of 500 tons burthen. Richelieu River, also called Chambly, Sorel, St. Louis, and St, John, affords a quick and easy water communication from the United States territory {via Lake Champlaiu) into the heart of Canada. Its principal source is in the United States, and estimat- ing its length from the S. point of Lake George to the termination at Sorel, now William Henry Town (so called after king William IV.) on the banks of the St. Law- rence, its course cannot be less than 160 miles — the estimated extent of tract watered 'being 30 miles, and the surface drained 4,800 square miles ; only a portion of this lies within the province of British America, the distance from the boundary line to the mouth of the river being about 70 miles of the KiO. The banks of the river are generally from 8 to 13 feet high, diversified on each side by many farms and extensive settlements, in a high state of cultivation ; on and near it are neat, populous, and flourishing villages, handsome churches, numerous mills of vari- ous kinds, good roads in all directions, and every characteristic of a prosperous country. From its junction with the St. Lawrence, decked vessels of 150 tons may ascend from 12 to 15 miles, after which the navigation is carried on by boats, canoes, rafts, and craft of large dimensions. Tlie breadth of the bed at its mouth is 250 yards, which it preserves with a few exceptions (occasioned by some small and beautiful islands), up to Chambly basin, which is a nearly circular expansion of the river, about a mile and a half in diameter, embellished by several little islands, covered vrith fine verdure and natural wood, artisti- cally grouped. From the basin of Chambly to the Isle du Portage the breadth is 500 yards — ^beyond this it spreads to double that distance, and continues to widen more or less as far as St. John's, where there is ship navigation to the towns on Lake Champlain. This lake has its name from the distinguished Frenchman who discovered it in 1609, and lies between Vermont and New Y6rk ; its ex- treme length from Whitehall at its southern extremity to its termination, 24 miles N. of the Canada line, is 128 miles ; with a varying breadth of from 1 to 16 miles; its mean width being 5 ; and altogether covering a surface of about 600 sqirare miles. The outlet of the lake is the Richelieu river above described. There are about 60 islands of diffierent sizes in the lake, the principal of which are N. and S. Hero and Isle Lamotte. N. Hero, or Grand Island, is 24 miles long and from 2 to 4 wide. Lake Champlain has a depth suflScient for the largest vessels; half the rivers and streams which rise in Vermont fall into it, and it receives at Ticonderago the waters of Lake St. George from the S.S.W., which are said to be 100 feet higher than its own. The other rivers being of considerably less magnitude, do not require any separate notice. The following detail will show the di- visions of Eastern Canada, and afford some idea of the numerous rivers and lakes by which this fine countiy is irrigated. The district of Quebec (including Anti- costi and other islands) extends along the St. Lawrence 826 miles, is in depth inland 360, and contains an area of 127,949 square miles. 64 DISTRICT*! AND DIVISIONS OP EAST CANADA. IP Montreal (including the adjacent islands) extends 110 miles along the St. Lawrence, 810 inland, and has an area of 54,802 sqnarc miles. Three Rivers (including St. Francis and the islands) extends 52 miles along the St. Lawrence, 320 inland, and has an area cf 15,82t3 square miles. Gasp^ peninsida (including islands) extends 80 miles along the St. Lawrence, 200 inland, and has an area of 7,289 square miles. Total superficies in square miles, 205,863. Quebec District. — Rivers. N. of St. Latvrence : Ste. Anne, Jacques Cartier, Ba- tiscan, St. Charles, Montmorenci, Goufire, Mai Bay, Black River, Sagucnay, Belsiamite, St. John, Ste. Anne, L., Portneuf. S. of St. Lawrence: Chaudiere (part of), Etch- emin, Du Sud, Du Loup, Greenrivcr, Ri- mouski, Trois Pistoles, Mitis, Tartigo, Ma- tane, Madawaska, St. Francis (part of), St. John (part of). — Lakes. N. of St. Law- rence: St. John, Commissioner's, Quaqua- gamack, Wayagamack, Bouchette, Kajoul- wang, Ontaretri, St. Charles, Chawgis, Assuapmoussin, Shecoubish. S. of St. Law- rence: Tcmiscouata, Matapediae, Mitis, Abawsisquash, Long lake, Pitt, Trout, Wil- liam, St. Francis, McTavish, Macanamack. Montr]£al District. — Rivet 8 N. of St. Lawrence: Gatincau, Lifevres, Petite Nation, Riviere Blanche, RiviSre Du Nord, Mas- couche, Achigau, L'Assomption, Lachenaye, Berthier, Chaloupe, Du ChSue. S. of St. Lawrence: Richelieu, Sorcl, Yamaska and branches. Pike, Montreal, L. Chateauguay and branches, Lacolle, Magog, Coaticook, Missiskoui. — Lakes. N. of St. Lawrence: White Fish, Sables, Killamey, Temiscaming, Lievres, La Roque, Rocheblave, Pothier, Nimicachinaque, Papineau, Maskinonge. iS. of St. Lawrence: Memphramagog, Tomefobi, Missiskoui Bay, Scaswaninepus (part of), Yamaska Bay, St. Louis, Two Mountains, St. Francis, Chaudiere, Chats, Allumets. Three Rivers District. — N. of St. Lawrence : St. Maurice and branches, Batis- can, (part of), Champlain, Du Loup G. and L. Maskinonge, Machiches. S. of St. Law- rence: St. Francis and branches, Nicolet and do. Becancour, Gentilly, Yamaska (part of). — Lakes. N. of St. Lawrence: O'Can- anshing, Matawin, Goldfinch, Shasawataiata, Mont jagoose, Oskelanaio, Crossways, Pcr- chaudes, Blackbeaver, Bewildered. S. of St. Lawrence: Nicolet, St. Francis, (part of), 7'egantic, St. Paul, Outardes, Blacklake, CcE ecticut Weedon, Scaswani-acpus (part of), it. Peter. The rural districts N. of tlie St. Law- rence, between Montreal and Quebec, are principally occupied by the French Canadian Seigniories; and from the Isle Jesus to Three Rivers, the banks of the St. Lawrence pre- sent an uninterrupted succession of flourish- ing settlements. The Isle Jesus, parallel to that of Montreal, 21 miles long by 6 broad, is level, fertile, and highly cultivated. The Montreal district on the north side of the St. Lawrence, comprises the counties of Mon- treal, Berthier, Lachenaye, L'Assomption, Terrebonne, Two Mountains, Vaudreuil, and Ottawa, and contains a comparatively dense population. The Ottawa district, which ex- tends more than 300 miles along the north bank of that great river, is very thinly peopled, as will be seen by the statistics of the chapter on Population. The district of Three Rivers extends from the mouth of the River St. Anne to the upper part of Lake St. Peter, which is 25 miles long by from 5 to 10 broad. The town of Three Rivers was founded in 1618, and stands at the mouth of the St. Maurice, where it is divided by islands into three branches. There is a good wharf, where ships of large burthen may lie close to the shore. There are now about 5,000 inhab- itants in the town, which derives much advantage from the excellent iron establisb- ments on the St. Maiuiee. Tlie counties belonging to the Montreal district south of the St. Lawrence, north of the states of New York and Vermont, and west of the St. Francis, are those of Beau- hamois. La Prairie, Acadie, Vercheres, Chambly, Rouville, Richelieu, St. Hyan- cynthe, Shefibrd, Missisqui, and Stanstead. "ftiis district, where it borders on the St. Law- rence, is nearly flat, but gently imdulates to the southward, and forms detached hiUs called Mounts RouviUe, Chaml':'. John- son, and Boucherville, &c. The soil of this rich plain is exceedingly productive, and has a numerous population scattered in farms and villages, especially along the St. Lawrence. Tlie scenery is described as extremely picturesque, being covered with " fruitful fields, luxuriant meadows, and smiling villages variegated by towering peaks." La Prairie, opposite to Montreal, is a handsome town, and in the high road of coi^-nunication between Montreal and . the United States. Chambly and St. j John's arc on the same route, and rapidly rising in importance. The counties within i the ^strict of " Three Rivers," on the south \ ford. I, EASTERN TOWNSHIPS AND QUEBEC DISTRICT. 65 ride of the St. Lawrence, are Yamaska, Nicolet, Drummond, and Shcrbrooke. The country rises to the eastward, and is wel' irrigated by the St. Francis and several fine rivers. The land along the St. Lawrence from 8 to 10 miles inland, was bestowed in grants, and formed into seigniories, while the fine undulating tracts in the rear, reach- ing to the frontiers of the United States, were neglected. At the close of the last war the govern- ment began to form townships in this region, of which there are now about an hundred. Colonel Herriot laid out Drum- mond Ville with some military, discharged from the army on the establishment of peace; and private settlers were attracted from the adjacent United States territories by the fertility of the soil, and other advan- tages. Subsequently the British American Land Company purchased from Government a block of land containing 596,000 acres, and other tracts from private individuals, making altogether 700,000 acres, at a cost of nearly £200,000. Of this money £60,000 has been returned to them to be expended in improvements ; and they have formed a har- bour at Port St. Francis on Lake St. Peter, improved the road to Sherbrooke, and ren- dered the country very eligible for settlers, as improved farms, with buildings complete, may now be purchased in any part of the eastern townships at from £150 to £300 for a lot of 300 acres. Shefford, watered by the lower branches of the Yamaska river, is, in some places, hilly and rocky. Stanstead is diversified by hill and dale, and has, in its centre, the pleasing lake called Memphramagog. Stans- tead town on the east side of the lake, within two miles of the American frontier, is large and well built. A railroad is in course of formation from Montreal through Chambly, Richelieu, St. Hyacinthe, Shef- ford, Sherbrooke, and Stanstead counties, to the American state of New Hampshire, from whence it is projected to continue the line to the seaports of Boston, and Portland in the United States. The district of St. Francis is divided into 29 townships ; has a broken and va ied sui'- face; hills clothed with fine timber; and much valuable and well-watered land. The Quebec district on the S. side of the St. Lawrence contains the counties of Beauce, Bellechasse, Megantie, Lotbinicre, Nicolet, Kamouraska, and llimouski. The aspect of this district is hilly ; the laud stretching in VOL. I. irregular ridges, intersected by extensive valleys; and from 15 to 20 miles inland, a more elevated tabular surface is formed with a gradual slope to the river St. John. The land facing the St. Lawrence was granted by the French government in seigniories, but in the rear of these, townships have been laid out for English settlers who may obtain farms in fee-simple. Kamouraska is the fashionable watering-place of the Canadians, and the fine scenery, combined with sea air, render the place very attractive. On proceeding further towards the sea the country is less populous; but the settle- ments of Kent and Stratheam, adjoining Lake Temisconata, formed by colonel Fraser, are rising in importance. Along Gaspe peninsula, the land adjoin- ing the coast has been laid out, and double ranges are now forming inland. The country will soon be cultivated extensively, and will probably become very prosperous from its valuable fisheries and mines. The vast territory embraced in the di- vision of Upper or Western Canada, as regards the inhabited parts, is in general, a level, champaign country; for, from the di\'ision line on Lake St. Francis to Sand- wich, a distance of nearly 600 miles westerly, nothing like a mountain occurs, although the greater part of the country gently un- dulates in pleasing hills, fine slopes, and fertile vallies : but a ridge of rocky country runs in a north-east and south-west direction through the Newcastle and Midland dis- tricts, towards the Ottawa or Grand River, at the distance of from 50 to 100 miles from the north shore of Lake Ontario and the course c" the River St. Lawrence. To the N. of this ridge is a wide and rich valley of great extent, which intervenes between it and a rocky and mountainous country, of still higher elevation. Farther to the north, beyond the French river which falls into Lake Huron, are lofty mountains, some of them of great, but un- kno^vn height. The country on the N. and W side of Lake Ontario, and of Lake Erie, which is still further west, continues flat as far as Lake Hm-on, with occasional elevations of easy ascent. Of this tract of country only a comparatively small portion is under culti- vation, the remainder being in its primitive state of forests, lakes, and rivers ; the latter for the most part falling into the great lakes, or into large rivers, which again empty themselves into that great artery of the i 66 Till!) ORKAT LAKES OP EAST CANADA. country, the St. Lawrence. The unttlctncnts are chiefly confined to tlio (thofos, and arc seldom far distant tram the hordcri of the great lakes and rivers, In order to convey a clear idea of the phyHoid (wpeot of tlio pro- vince, it may he expodiont to proceed at once to a description of its vtwt iidnnd seas. The lakes of West Cuniidii are nlntost incalculahle. The followinjj tal)l() uliows the dimension of a few of the bent known i — Mamea. l^ength. nroAdlb, Clwum. Avcf, depth. Klctat. nbuvo (he Sea. HUet. Milai, Mil^K, Vppt. Feet. Superior . . 360 140 1(1(10 1000 0'J7 Huron . . , 200 J 00 1000 8(10 fl04 Michigan . . 260 AS 800 780 Erie 280 03 700 SAO 666 Ontario . . . 180 eo fiOO 600 'J34 Simcoe , . . 40 3U J 'JO 13d 700 St. Clair . . 33 ao 100 'JO George . . . Kice Lake . 25 M 24 atnfl M 000 Lake Superior, called also KectcjhocKahnii and Missisawgaiegon, the largest antf most elevated of those singular «en«, which, in Western Canada, seero to fill the place that great mountains ocoupy in other countries, and to affect the climate in a somewhat similar manner, is situpte between the meri- dians of 92° 19' and »f 18' W. long., and the parallels of 49° I' ami 4(P 30' N. lat. It is in form, an irrogwlar oblong basin, about 1,500 geograpliioal miles in circum- ference, in length ft'om E. to W. the imagi- nary line which, passing; through its centre, divides the territory of Oreut Hritnin from that of the United States, is 8(10 miles ; its extreme breadth (opposite Peak Island) is 140 geographical miles, with a depth, where it admits of measurement, of IVotn 80 to 150 fathoms, but without soundings in its centre ; the waters are always extremely cold, clear, and devoid of tides, or o»iy other kind of periodical rise and fall. During heavy gales of wind, the waters of this unci the other great lakes, between which a subter- ranean communication Is supposed to exist, rise so high, that it was at first doubted whether the smaller-class steam-boats could live in them, and the ground swell, owing to the comparative shallowness, or little specific gravity of the fresh water, is so trying ns to produce sea-sickness even in old sailors. [See Geology.] This monarch of lakes is situated to tlic S. of, and near the continuous chain of high lands, which, stretching from the rocky mountains to Lake Superior in broad dilu- vial plains and undulations, divides the waters flowing into the Mexican Gulf from those which find their exit in Hudson's Bay; and proceeding thence in an easterly direc- tion to the coast of Labrador, constitutes the north dividing range of the valley of St. Lawrence. The surface of Lake Superior is 627 feet above — and the bottoji of its basin (so far as it has been sounded) upwards of 500 feet below the level of the Atlantic ocean; it receives 220 tributary rivers and rivulets, but owing to the immense evaporation con- tinually taking place from Lake Superior, the volume of water which it discharges through its only outlet (the Falls of St. Mary) into Lake Huron, is far less in quantity than that which it has itself received. The extent of the American shore along Lake Superior fi'om the mouth of the Onto- nagon is 500 miles; that of the Canadian coast is estimated at 1200 miles. Some of the rivers on the S. coast are 153 miles long; the principal of thesfe, namely, the Ontona- gon, or Coppermine, Montreal, Mauvaise, Boisbrul^ and St. Louis, communicate mtb the Mississippi. Numerous islands exist in various parts of the lake, some of which are of considerable size ; Isle Royale is 45 miles long by 7 or 8 board ; Caribou is about 6 miles in circum- ference, and the Islands of the Twelve Apostles are 23 in number, with perpendi- cular cliffs of sandstone on the N. and S.E.. 00 feet in height. At Les Portailles and Grand Island there are perpendicular cliffs broken into the most beautiful and pic- turesque arches, (under some of which a boat can pass,) porticoes, columns, and caverns of large dimensions. The shores of Lake Superior (whose direc- tion is E. and W.) are in several places rocky, and considerably elevated, with occa- sional large tracts and bays of sand. From Point Iroquois to the " Pictured Rocks," it is generally sandy, from thence to the foot of the Fond du Lac, rocky. The great pro- montory or peninsula of Keewanonan, which divides it into two equal sections, is very high at its central part, consisting of steep conical granite hills, rising 1,000 feet above the lake. The country around Lake Supe- rior, whether on the American or on the British territory, is but imperfectly known ; there is a great extent of hill and dale, and in some places ranges of what in Wes< SCENERY AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. Canada -may be termed mountains, 1,500 feet above the level of the lake, and cohhc- quently 2,127 feet above the level of the ocean. The Porcupine hills, 200 feet high, approach the lake on the S. shore. At Gros-Cap (wherti Lake Superior is connected by the river St. Mary, with Lake Huron) the prospect is not only beautiful but magnificent; the spectator standing be- neath the shattered crags 300 feet high, has before him an apparently immeasurable flood, which, if it burst its barriers, would overwhelm a continent: in front is a low island, on the S. Point Iroquois declines from a high tabular hill, ond on the N.W. a picturesque and elevated country is dimly seen in the distance. The line of rocky hills which constitutes the N. shore of Lake Superior consists of rocks and crags, piled to the height of 150 or 200 feet at the N. end, and from about 400 to 450 feet at the S. end, where they dip into the lake from an elevation of 300 feet in detached fragments, lowering successively on eaeh other. Along the E. shore of the lake from Gros-Cap to the river Michipico- ton (125 miles) are several proinontories, bays, and rivers ; among these arc Batche- wine and Huggewong bays, off the mouth of which latter is the island termed ^lon- treal or Hogguart. The W. end of Lake Superior, termed Fond du Lnc, is a slowly contracting cul de sac commencing in long. 91°, at the promontory opposite tlic isles of the Twelve Apostles, 80 miles in length, with a breadth of 8 to 10 miles at the end. There are 139 rivers and creeks on the S. shore, btit fewer in the eastern than in the western division. One of these, the St. Lewis, is 150 yards broad at its mouth, ex- panding immediately into a sheet of water 5 or 6 miles wide, and extending inland 23 miles, with a varying breadth. Some of the mountains near the lake rise to the height of 1,400 feet. Thunder mountain, for in- stance, which is of considerable breadth, several miles long, the western half being almost tabular, with the eastern irregular and hummocky. In general the hills have fiat pine-clad summits. The pictured rocks (so called from their appearance); situate! on the S. side of the lake towards i\w. E. end, form a perpendicular wall 300 feet high, extending about 12 miles, with umuc- rous projections and indentations in every variety of form, and vast caverns, in wliieh the entering waves make a jarring and tre- mendous sound. Mr. Schoolcraft describes them as " surprising groups of overhanging precipices, towering walls, caverns, waterfalls, and prostrate ruins, which are mingled in the most wondenul disorder, and burst upon the view in ever-varying and pleasing suc- cession." Among the more remarkable objects arc the Cascade La Portaille and the Doric Arch ; the cascade consists of a con- siderable stream, precipitated from a height of 70 feet by a single leap into the lake, and projected to such a distance that a boat may pass beneath the fall and the rock un- touched by the waters. The Doric Arch has a most singular effect, having all the appearance of a work of art ; it consists of an isolated mass of sandstone, with four pillars supporting an immense en- tablature of stone covered with soil, from which springs a beautiful grove of pine and spruce trees of considerable height. The lake is subject to storms, sudden transitions of temperature, and dense fogs and mists. The mean heat for June is 66°, and for July 61", and of the lake 61°; the winter is long and severe. The principal fores': trees are white and yellow pine, oak, hemlock, spruce, birch, poplar, with a mix- ture of elm, maple, and ash, upon the banks of some of the rivers. The waters of Lake Superior are very transparent, and their lower strata appear never to gain a warm temperature, for the water in a bottle sunk to the depth of 100 feet in July, and there filled, is, when bro>ight to the surface, cold as ice. They abound nevertheless mth trout (weighing from 12 to 50 pounds), sturgeon, and white fish as large in proportion, together with pike, pickerel, carp, bass, herring, and nume- rous other species. The St. Mary's river, or strait, which con- nects Lake Superior with Lake Huron, is about 00 miles long. The falls or rnpids of St. Mary, by which travellers usually enter Lake Superior, are in length about three quarters of a mile by half a mile in breadth, the river being here narrowed by a broad tongue of land, pro- truding from the N. shore, and affording a site for the store-houses of the Hudson's Bay Company. The rapids are 15 miles from Lake Superior, in 46° 31' N. lat., and have a descent of 23 feet 10 inches in the narrow limit of 900 yards. The broken foaming billows are hurried with velocity over a slope of ledges and huge boidder stones, through a thickly wooded country, whose low IcacI bus permitted the formation on each side ot 68 LAKES HURON AND MICHIGAN. a number of inlctii, divided by channels, which arc narrow on the left, but much wider on the right bunk. The height of the latter varicn from 10 to 50 feet, and is com- puacd of light alluvial earth ; this acclivity 18 more di«tant on the Canadian than on the American nhorc. The St. Mary river ex- tendi above the rapids about 15 miles, through a low well-woodcd country, and its bed is from one mile to one and a half wide. The current ceases to affect boats 2 miles above the rapids, Immediately below the rapids, the St. Mary fall widens to upwards of a mile. Lake Huron, the third from the Atlantic ocean of the great chain of lakes which occupy the (our plateaux of the upper part of the valley of the St. Lawrence, is of an irregular shape. It has a circumference at the south part exceeding 720 lineal miles, and an ansa of 14,000 square miles. The northern part is divided by the Manitoulin islands into two parts; the eastern, called Georgian Hoy, is 120 miles long by 20 broad, and has an area of 6,000 square miles; and the western, called the "North Channel," has an anni of 1,700 square miles. The total su|)crficics of the lake amounts to about 2 1 ,7()0 square miles. Lake Huron is n(!arly SIH feet above the ocean level, and has a depth of 30 feet. Lake Micliigrn, is in fact, a part of the same body of water, separated only by the strait of Miehilimnkinac, but as it is en- tirely possessed by the United States, it does not come within my notice. I may, however, observe, that it is 260 miles long, by 55 broad, and 800 miles in circumfer- ence, covering an area of 16,200 square miles, or I0,')(W,()0() acres, and navigable for ships of the largest burthen. Green Bay extends from the N. end of the lake 90 miles in a S.W. direction, with a width of from 15 to 20 miles. Across its entrance is a clioin of islands, cpllcd the Grand Tra- verse, the chaniuils between which admit vesscis of 2(M) tons burthen, and sloops of e(jual burthen can ascend to the head of this extensive bay. From the bottom of Green Kay, boats can ascend the Outagamis or Fox lliver, to within two miles of the Oniscousin, t(» the head of which a portiige has been made, and u descent is practicable from thcn(!e to the Mississippi. The tribu- taries of Mictliigan are extremely numerous, some of them full flowing rivers, but, so far as wo know, iir)nc are of any great length. I Along tho north shores of Lake Huron are the Manitoulins, or Sacred Isles, many of which are from 25 to 30 miles long by 10 and 15 broad. Drumraond Island (one of the Manitou- lins] is 24 miles long by from 2 to 12 broad, and at the west end approaches the main land of the United States, where it forms the strait of the True Detour, the principal commercial route to Lake Superior; the strait is scarcely a mile wide, and bounded by two promontories; the coast of the United States is here flat and woody, with morasses, — that of the island is irregular, and covered with large masses of rock. In the higher and middle ports of Drummond Isle, the elevation is from 200 to 250 feet, inclining on either side of the water, often presenting low white precipices, in broken lines, on the summit or sides of the slopes ; the south coast of the island is broken into small but deep bays, with shoal points; those on the west contain many islets, — one of which, according to Dr. Bigsby, has an immense deposit of iron pyrites : the north coast is distinguished by the magnitude of its bays, and the groups of islands which cover the contiguous waters. This coast is terminated on the east, in the strait called False Detour, by a calcareous precipice of considerable beauty, 500 yards long, and 250 feet high, which forms at the top a terrace of rock, and below is separated from the lake by a narrow and high beach. The False Detour, which separates Drum- mond Island from the little Manitoulin, or Cookbum Island, is from 8 to 10 miles long, and from 3 to 6 miles wide, with a mid depth of seldom less than 40 fathoms ; the opening from the south is spacious and bold, it has tlixee fine capes on the west, and one on the east. At the north outlet, the shores are very much rounded, with precipices to the west, and woody steeps to the cast : in front, is that part of Lake Huron termed the North Channel, studded ■with a few islets in pairs, and bounded in the distance by the mis-shapen hills of the northern main ; on the north-west the heights of St. Joseph form a blue waving line, and on the north-east, the looming of the isles at the foot of La Cloche is just visible. Little Manitoulin has a diameter of seven or eight miles, and an aspect somewhat similar to, though more elevated than that of Drummond Isle ; the shores have sueces- sive banks or stairs formed by the debris of the lake, with here and there terraces of r MANITOULIN ISLANDS— LAKE HURON. 69 limestone, tn situ ; — inland, the surface has a rugged asc-nt, with protruding strata in primitive massrs, intersected by short ledges, which often crown the greatest heights, and form a table land of small extent, but well wooded. Between the Little and Grand Manitoulin is the third Detour, eight miles long by four broad, which has high shores, and is clear at both outlets. The Grand Manitoulin, or " Sacred" Isle, is 80 miles long by 20 broad, with an area of ] ,600 square miles, and deeply indented by bays, which nearly divide the island; its general features are similar to those of the two preceding named islands, only it is higher, abounds more in precipices, and is rugged throughout. At the W., its fea- tures are more majestic than those of any other part of LaJce Huron. At the north end of the third Detour, its shores are lined with ranges of shingle, backed by a wooded ascent: towards the centre of this strait, ledges and low precipices begin to appear along the beach, increasing to the height of 250 feet, crowned with cedars and pines: these ledges either rise perpendicularly, or or are formed by enormous piles of displaced masses, from 7 to 10 yards in diameter, sloping at a high angle, sometimes advancing into the waters of the lake, and affording a hazardous passage over their slippery sides, under arches and through winding passages. Near the south-east angle of the Detour, a bluflf precipice, 40 feet high, protrudes into the water, skirted by very large cubic masses of rock. From these natural precipices arise clumps of beautiful trees, and knolls of flowering shrubs, shadowed in the back ground by the dense gloom of impenetrable forests. The interior of the island appears to be well irrigated with streams and lakes. One lake, 10 miles long, is in the form of an hour- glass, 7 miles «vide at the ends, and only 1 in the centr.?, with an area of 55 square miles. The margin of the lake is fringed with trees to the water's edge, except on the S.W. side, where the ledges rise 20 to 40 feet. This lake is 155 feet above the level of the waters of Lake Huron. Only one stream flows into it, while three large brooks run from it. Where the water is derived from, Mr. Miu-ray (in his recent geological survey) was unable to discover. jSlauitoulin island is chiefly composed of limestone; which formation not unfrequently has sub- ten'anean passages; the difiercnt lakes in the island therefore posi' Have a commu- nication. The insulated rocks called the Flower Pots are six miles S.S.E. of the fourth Manitoulin, one of them has an elevation of 47 feet, and consists of large tabular masses placed horizontally one upon the other, narrow below, but increasing in breadth as they ascend — the whole standing on a floor of rock projecting into the lake from the lofty island which bears their name. Cabot's Head is a singular looking head-land, in Michipocoton, or Georgian Bay, consisting of indented limestone bluffs, rising to the height of 300 feet, and skirted by numerous reefs and islets,, and presenting on the S. W. a continued range of calcareous precipices. From the French River (which connects Lake Nipissing with Lake Huron) westwards to the islands of La Cloche, about 50 miles distant, the lake near the shore is studded with innumerable islands; some near the main, barren, and chiefly composed of gneiss, are like heaps of ruins; others farther out in the lake, loftier, and girded with a belt of flat ground, consist of shelly limestone, and are richly wooded. Further west the islands of La Cloche, which derive their name from the belief that some of the islands are com- posed of dark rocks, which, when struck, sound like a bell, form a charming contrast to the bleak hills on the main, which rise 1000 feet above the level of the lake; — the islands, with their dark green forests diversi. fied by grassy vales and clumps of trees, appear like an English park. Groups of islands occupy the lake from La Cloche to Missala.ga River, 60 miles distant; some near th° main are low and barren; others, ele- vated and woody; beyond the Missalaga is a low rocky shore. To the westward of Spanish River, which was discovered by captain Bayfield, in 1820, the coast is fo" the most part low, rugged, and has several safe and commodious harbours among its numerous islands and inlets. To the E. of the Spanish River the scenery is improved by the gradual approach of a high range of picturesque hills, which extend to the sliores of the lake, about four mUcs W. of the Hud- sou's Bay Company's post at La Cloche. Their highest elevation is 482 feet above the lake. To the E. of the Manitoulin islands, the La Cloche hills recede to the northward, and the coast is generally low and destitute of vegetation. Mr. Alexander Murray, assistant provin- cial geo'rjist, in his survey of Lake Huron 70 COUNTRY AROUND LAKE HURON. I (14th January, 184*), describes the north shore of Jie lake as poor, rocky, in some parts destitute of vegetation; in others thickly clad with trees of a stunted growth. But after passing these marginal forests of fir, spruce, pine, beech, and poplar, the interior in many places presents a very different chamcter, especially in the valleys of the different streams, where there are frequently to be seen extensive valleys of rich and deep soil, producing maple, oak, elm, birch, and basawood, besides occasional groves of red and white pine of large size. Various places of this description have been cleared and cultivated by the Indians, and as at Spanish river, notwithstanding the rude state of aboriginal culture, the crops of maize and potatoes are nearly equal, both in quantity and quality, to those usually seen under the more enlightened system of tillage in West Canada. Mr. Murray remarks, that the Thessalon, Mississagui, Serpent, and Spanish rivers, have the most favourable districts for cultivation. The Tlicssalon and Mississagui rise far in the interior, where the country is repre- sented to be spotted with numerous small lakes, run in a south-east direction, and fall into Lake Huron, within 25 miles of each other. The Serpent and Spanish rivers rise to the northward, flow westward for the lower part of their course, and disembogue into Lake Huron, within 15 miles of each other. The north-west arm of Lake Huron, which communicates with Lake Superior, is of an oblong shape, the two longer sides at their western extremities converging towards the north; it contains about 400 square miles, and is crowded with islands of all sizes; the principal, St. Joseph, is 65 miles in circumference, through it runs an undu- lating ridge, called the Highlands of St. Joseph, 500 feet high : the N.W. point of St. Joseph is in long. 84°, and lat. 46° 18'. Pelletan's Channel, which divides St. Joseph from the main, is remaikable for its fine scenery. The island (St. Joseph) be- longs to the English, and its neighbour, Drummond Isle, to the United States, and on each are small military detachments belonging to their respective governments. Portlock Harbour, a British military position, 1100 miles from Quebec, is an extensive haven, interspersed with rocky islets, and girt by woody hills starting forth in a series of verdant or rocky capes. Muddy Lake, bounding the S.W. side of St. Joseph's Isle, is a noble sheet of water 17 milei long, and varying from 2 to 7 in breadth; its shores are deep embayments, ending in grassy marshes, especially on the S.E. side. Michilimakiiiac strait, the south-west arm of Lake Huron, leading into Lake Michigan, is 11 miles wide, and by its side is the pe- ninsula called False Presquisle. The view into Lake Michigan, from Michilimakinac Isle, which lies in the strait of that name, midway from eitlier main, is remarkably plcRsing; the land, which at first closes on the water, suddenly expands into a spacious sound, with curving shores and woody capes, with clusters of islands in the distnnce. The pretty hamlet of St. Ignace, the high white cliffs of Michilimakinac contrasting with the dark foliage around, and the blue light streaming through the sound fi-om the vast lake beyond, offer a rich tiea*. to the lovers of natural scenery. There is ;iothing par- ticularly worthy of remark vlovri the south- east shore, as far as Thundei Bay and Middle Islands, which are flat, calctreous, and well covered with timber of various kinds. Res- pecting the Gulf of Saguina the English know little: from Pont aux Barques to the River St. Clair, is a straight line of beach, intermixed here and there with stiff clay, and, about midway, a large block of white limestone ri i3s from the waters of the lake. On the e. r, ,ited south-east shore of the lake, in the London district, between 43° IC and 43° 53' of north latitude, about 40 mile's at its nearest point from the head of Lake Ontario, and 30 miles from the north border of Lake Erie, is situate the fine tract termed the Huron territory, which belongs to the Canada company. It is of a triangular shape, the base is 60 miles in length, it rests on Lake Huron, and comprises an area of nearly 1,100,000 acres. Near to the con- fluence of the river Maitlaud with the lake an excellent harbour is formed, capable of sheltering vessels of 200 tons burthen, where the Canada Company have laid out the neat and flourishing town of Goderich ; — the country around is fast improving under theii judicious management. The surface of tht Huron territory is generally level, and fre- quently presents rich natural meadows. The rivers Maitland, Aux Sables, a large branch of the Thames, and other rivers and streams, water this fine district. Georgian Bay, a vast arm of Lake Huron on the north-east sid , is studded with fine harboui's. The principal British naval station in ^n LAKE ST. CLAIR AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY. 71 the Lake Huron is Fcnetanguishine (lat. '14° 57', long. 79° 35'), in the south-east bight of Georgian Bay, within Gloucester harbour ; it is sheltered by hills of sand and rolled blocks. The lake we are now treating of, may be considered the centre of the great chain of waters round it, with all of which it has a direct communication. It communicates with Lake Superior bv St. Mary's River; with Michigan (and tlirough it with the Illinois river) by the Strait of Michilima- kinac; with Lake Erie by the river and Lake of St. Clair; and with Lake Ontario by the Severn river, — Lake Simcoe, a chain of comparatively small lakes, and the Trent river. It has also two known com- munications with the Ottawa — one through Lake Simcoe, and a chain of lakes to the source of the Madawasca, which falls into the Lake des Chats — the other, up French river, through Lake Nipissing, and down a rapid river to the Ottawa, near Mataouin. The principal rivers emptying themselves into Lake Huron are, the Thessalon, Mis- sassagua, French, Severn, St. Clair, Mait- land, and Saguina. The two former, situate in the north-east corner of the lake, are small. French River, which connects Lake Huron with Lake Nipissing, is 75 miles in length, and resembles a multitude of rivers rather than a single stieam, flowing with frequent inosculations, among lengthened ridges of rock : its shores seldom present continuous lines, but are excavated with deep and narrow bays, obsciured by high walls, masses of rock, and groves of dwarf pines. Its breadth varies; sometimes it extends more than one league, and is occu- pied by islands of every imaginable shape. Dr. Bigsby says, few American prospects exceed in singularity and grandeur those which are here afibrded, by groups of long and lofty islets extending in giant rays from a, centre in some dark bay, — the clear water reflecting their rugged outlines and wild foliage, amid the solemn stillness per- vading these solitudes. Two cataracts occur in French River, — by one, it leaves Lake Nipissing ; the other, called the Recollet, is 20 miles below, where the black crags in the midst of the foam- ing waters, skirted by pine trees, impart strange beauty to the »""eue. There are also several rapids ; near one, the Buisson, thirteen wooden crosses com- memorate an equal number of fatal acci- dents which occui'red in crossuig the foam- ing torrent; the average velocity of which, along the whole course of the river, is about two miles per hour. The Saguina River flows tlirough a fine and level country, and has a breadth of 180 yards for 24 miles, when it divides into three small and very circuitous branches, one of which is called Flint River. The Saguina is 120 miles from Detroit, through the woods, and about 220 by water. The Severn River, connecting Lakes Sim- coe and Huron, is about 30 miles in length ; and at its mouth, near Penctanguishine, it is one mile and a quarter in breadth: it has two falls, and a descent of 80 feet from Lake Simcoe. The St. Clair, according to Dr. Bigsby, is the only rivei of discharge for Lakes Su- perior, Michigan, and Huron, which cover a surface of 384 million of Seres, and are fed by numerous large rivers. I differ from this able observer, and am of opinion that the Missouri and Mississippi receive some of the waters of Superior and Michigan. It is 300 yards broad at its commencement, and flows for 26 miles, previous to its en- trance into Lake St. Clair, through a lux- uriant alluvial country, in a straight course, with a smooth and equable current of 2 miles an hour. At its head, there is a rapid, which flows for three quarters of a mile, at the rate of 5 miles per hour ; and it enters Lake St. Clair by a multitude of shallow changeable mouths, which are, nevertheless, navigable for schooners. Lake St. Clair is scarcely more than an intermediate link between Huron lake and the noble basin of Erie, being connected with the latter by the Detroit River ; it is of an irregular oval shape, about 30 miles in diameter, with a depth of water sufficient for steam-boats and schooners. The shores are low and level, and a group of flat islands formed by the constant alluvial accumula- tions carried from Lake Huron by the St. Clair River, contracts its surface to the northward. This lake receives two large rivers; 1st, the Thames River (formerly Riviere h la Tranche,) which rises north of the township of Blandford, has a serpentine course of 150 miles, and discharges itself into Lake St. Clair. Tt is navigable for large vessels to Chatham (15 miles from its embouehui'c), and for Ijoats nearly to its source; the bar at its en ranee is, however, some obstacle to its frc( navigation. The Thames winds through a level and highly fertile country, the banks presenting many * 72 THE DETROIT RIVER AND LAKE ERIE. fine pliiins niul niitural meadowo. The soil is pnuciiMilly a saiulv rnrtli, intcrniixpd with large quantities of loam, and sometimes marl, under wliieh is a suhstriitum of ehiy ; and the river flats are exeeedingly rich, from the alluvial deposits left by the overflowing of the banks. The oak, maple, pine, beeeh, and walnut, growing in the vicinity, are of Ruperior quality. London is situate on the banks of the main branch of the Thames, about 00 miles from its mouth, and in a tolerably central position with regard to the surrounding lakes. Chatham, as already observed, is 15 miles from its mouth. The Big Bear River, or "Creek," rises near the limits of the Huron tract, and after running a course of about lOU miles gener- ally parallel to the Thames (in one place approaching it within 5 miles), falls into Lake St. Clair at the mouth of one of its north-east channels. The Detroit River, or rather Strait, is broad, deep, and 29 miles long j it connects Lake St. Clair with Lake Erie, — flowing, after a westerly bend, nearly due S. from the former; the greater part of its course is intersected by long narrow islands, of which the largest (Gros Isle, 8 miles long,) is within the American boundary ; and the next in size (Turkey Island, 5 miles long,) is within the British territory. Isle au Bois Blane, H mile long, belonging to Upper or Western Canada, is of great importance from its situ- ation, as it divides the channel between Gros Isle and the E. bank of the river (leaving the deepest channel on the E.), and com- mands the entrance of the Detroit, which is navigable for vessels of the larger size em- ployed upon the lakes; it moreover affords, at the British settlement of Amherstburgh, an excellent harbour. Sandwich, another delightful British town, is situate 14 miles from Amherstburgh. The country aroimd is extremely picturesque; the banks high and richly cultivated, the eye everywhere resting on fertile fields, well stocked gardens, neat farm-houses and orehai'ds, and exten- sive bams. The most important American town, on the opposite bank, is Detroit, which is a strong militarj- station. During winter, the river is completely frozen over. We now arrive at that splendid sheet of water called — Lake Erie, which receives the Detroit river, about 30 miles from its north-west ex- tremity. This magnificent lake, unlike Huron or Superior (which lie generally north and south), runs nearly east and west, between 41° 20', and 42° 50', north latitude, 7K° 35', and 83° UY, west longitude, being 280 miles long, and 63^ miles broad at its centre, 700 miles in circumference, with an area of about 12,000 square miles. Its ex- treme dcptli varies from '10 to 45 fathoms, with a rocky bottom, unlike Lake Superior and Huron, which have astiff elaycv bottom mixed with shells; its average depth is from 15 to 18 fathoms; hence when the wind blows strong, the lake becomes exceedingly rough and boisterous, and a very high and dangerous surf breaks upon -its shores, which often resemble the sea beaci , being strewed with dead fish and shells, and frequented by various species of aquatic birds. The surface of Erie is 334 feet above that of Lake Ontario, with which it is connected by the Welland canal, and 565 feet above the tide water at Albany, with which it is connected by the great Erie canal. The southern shore of the lake (which is exclusively within the territory of the United States, as the north is within that of Great Britain), is generally low, from the Ameri- can town of Bufl'alo at its eastern extremity, to Detroit at its western, except near the portogc of Chataughue, where, for a short distance, it is rocky and bold, and between Cleveland and the Renesliowa river, where the cliffs rise 20 yards perpendicularly above the water, and continue of the same eleva- tion to the River Huron. Erie, an American town of some extent, with a strong battery, dock-yard, &c., lies to the S.E. of the lake. About 20 miles from its mouth, is a tract called the Sugar-loaf country, from its numerous conical hills, which average from 20 to 30 feet in height, are composed of sand and clay, and extend severd miles. The beach at this part of the lake is covered with huge black rocks, against which the waves beat with incessant roar, and during spring and autumn thick mists often obscure the sky for days together. To return to British territory, the north shore of Lake Erie is bolder and more elevated than the oj)posite coast, and is of an irregular form, by reason of several capes. The banks of the lake sometimes rise to the height of 100 perpendicular feet, and consist of clav and sand, broken and excavated in a thousand different ways by the action of the waves; in some places large bodies of clay project 20 or 30 feet beyond the main bank, and lofty trees, from the roots of which the soil has been swept T.AKK ElUH:— THE KlllE AND CHAMI'I.AIN CANALS. 78 a its OIU of liles. nwiiy, npiK-ar HU{i|i>irtc(l by a few fil)rra. Piirlnn t('in|ir)iti the wutrr.i iiiddcnly rino, uii'l bciit with great viiih'iu'(! aguinst these 8ai;d cliffft, oovcriii}; tlio beach, aiul over- wliciiniti^ bouts, &c. The first cape is I'oiiit Pel^, or South Forehvml, on the north-west shore (iieiu Lake St. (^lair), the southem- iiiost point )f Canada, and indeed of tlie Bri- tish dominions in North America. The next prominence ii Point aux Pins (Landj^uard) whence there is a short wexterly route to Chatham, un the Thames. Further east is Long Point, or tho Nortli Foreland (now nn island), stretching eastward into tho lake for about 20 miles, which forms a bay on its north-east shore. The fine river Ousc waters a thickly settled country, and falls into Ijftke I'lrie, after a course of 100 miles, where the Welland canal (sec canals) which joins Erie and Ontario eommenecs. The northern, or British shore, along the coun- ties of Middlesex, is thickly settled. Compared with the other gi-eat lakes, Erie, aa before observed, is shallow, and is rendered rather dangerous by the numerous rocks which, for many miles together, pro- ject from the north shore, and the little shelter aftbrded from storms. A coustant cuiTent sets down Lake Eric when N.W. and S.W. winds prevail. The principal harbours on the south (American) shore, are Buffalo and Dunkti'k (New York); Erie (Pcnsylvania) ; Sandusky (Ohio); be- sides the hai'bour at Put-in-Bay Island. The promontories on the north (British) side, form several good harbours and an- chorage during the heavy gales which blow on this lake. Some years ago the violence of a tempest made a breach through Long Point, (North Foreland) near the mainland, converted the peninsula into an island, and actually formed a canal almost at the very spot wliere it had been proposed to cut one, at an estimated expense of .€12,000, leaving nothing else necessary to secure a safe channel for vessels, and a good harbour on both sides, than the construction of a pier on the west side, to prevent its being choked with saTid. Both the American and Canadian shores of Lake Erie, especially towards Niagara, are among the most populous, and best set- tled of any districts in cither country; r. circumstance which accounts for the large immber of vessels and steam-boats which find profitable employment on the lake. Lake Erie may be regarded as a central reseiToir, from which open in all directions VOL. I. the most extoiisive channels of inland niivi- gallon to be found in the world; enablini^ wsitel.5 from tiie lake to traverse the whole interior of the country; indeed, tho map of tho entire globe dews not prciteut another sheet of water so strikingly peculiar as Lake Eric, commanding, as it (i(H Total Total in 1835 Increase 19,706 9,766 9,941 IIRI.IOIOUS PRUHUASIONa. De.iominations AVoHls. Church of Enf^land . . . Church of Scotland . . . Prtsbytcrian Church of Ca- nada United Secession Church . Independent Presbyterians . Church of Homo .... llritish Wesleyan Methodists Wcsleyan Methodist Church in Cfanada Episcopal Methodists Primitive Methodists Other Methodists . Congrcgationalists , Lutherans Jews Disciples of Christ . Univcrsalists . . . Covenanters . . . Baptists Quakers .... Unitarians . . . Millerites .... Christian .... Socialists .... Mormon .... No Religion . . . 2635 297 520 147 1 1738 462 437 2 119 25 199 42 1940 230 437 106 4 624 448 219 83 113 171 14 23 122 6 13 11 1 2 130 18: 1780 183 325 67 708 321 184 4 42 43 107 2 2t 11 138 23 1233 149 188 19 641 112 69 14 16 43 10 19 779 69 127 26 2 335 58 15 18 60 21 8367 928 1597 35.) 7 4040 1401 924 6 310 •JOI) 672 2 12 100 12 2j> 493 9 20 42 1 2 1 274 An intending settler, in a journey in 1844 through the country north of Toronto, recorded the following observations, which may interest immigrants : — " With the drive through the beautiful country on either side the Great North-road (Yonge-street) we were highly delighted. The crops, though late, were luxuriant, and hold out to the farmer promise of a large return, and good prices. Gentlemen's seats and handsome farm-houses, cheered the sight until we reached the ' Oak Ridges.' We there found the road naturally very good though a gravel track, and arrived at the ' Pinnacle Inn,' after attaining a height of 800 feet above the waters of Ontario ; — having passed the picturesque little sheet of water called ' Bond Lake' on the right, said to be without soundings ; a little beyond the ' Pinnacle,' the road gradually descends, until the eye at length rests upon a rich and widely extended region, consisting of hill and dale, thickly covered with rich farms of the most valuable description. Before us lay this beautiful picture, stretching fifteen or twenty miles, whilst far off to the right we now and then obtained preps at the vales of Newmarket and Uavidtown. On oiu' left we passed scores of thriving, beautiful farms, whose brick houses and comfortable out-buildings be- tokened the wealth of the owners. Among these stands conspicuous the handsome residence of Captain Irving. At Holland Landing (head of the Holland River) we came to a pretty little village, with mills, shops, &c., and were comfortably lodged at Fraser's hotel, after a pleasing drive of six miles. The following morning at "even we were on board the well regu- lated steam-boat Simcoe. A calm lake and the good fare provided by our obliging and intelligent host, Captain Laughton, made this part of our excursion WmSMi ■~ i ^N i 80 FIN'H COUNTRY NORTH OF TORONTO. ptculinrly plcnsnnt. 'I'lio wIliillnKX ol' UhIIiiikI ttivrr fur seven miles thrnunh H nu'iidow nf imimIh imil wild grass nro extremely ciiriimni in oitt' liinliineu llie angle of the Elbow wnn ho noiilii, llinl IJui head oC tliu liont was within a few pohilH nf tlie ('nmpaMn nf the house from which wo nliirliMJ, This prniric abounds with wild due'K.and nil lU nmi'uhl aic found woodcock and snipe, in luinilinl'ii (o ((nillfy the most fastidious sportsman. l'',mii|'glii(j IViiin IliU ciiiokud stream, we struck boldly into lIlM Iraiispuri'iil wiiters of (dd Simcoc. On the eniit lihnni nf lliii liikn, and seven miles from tlio mouth of tha I'lvec, wi! stopped nt IJonch's Point, n pretty little niiltlumt'lit, witli lui Inn, store, &c. The farms wu ptiswd In ('oiulii|f to this place studded thickly the wliolv iiliorii| mid llie wlient cro])s particularly were riimii'kHlilc liir tlieir fine appearance. Leaving thin pliiee wtt pwKSi'd closo to Snake Island, a pretty spot, cnnlftlnlnn -lOO nci'es, or thereabouts. Hero the Clnverilinritt hits erected twenty or more ecunfiirhilili) poltii^fes fnt' tndiiin families, who pass thuir llMie Impiiily nnd profllnbly in cultivating their farms. In liinitliiK ttnd In flshlnir. A church with a tin-cnvercd Hiili'e In sonii to he built for them ) this will ({reiitly add to llin tifesent cheer- ing aspect of their littlu liHliili't, Twefvo miles from Koach s Point, after running by iii'(ii'i'« nf lino farms and fields waving with Inxurliilit wliciit. we enme to Jackson's Lauding, a sheltpved, pi'iMly Utile nook, with a shore so bold that the dlciillu'r could any where lie alongside it. A lllllti ttl llio reur of this liiuhour is o ])opulon8 iottlemeiit nil (he I'oad leading lo Toronto. Near iho I.niidliii{ U the line fin'in and pretty stone cottage, with green veiHiidnll, nf (*nptnin lioui'hier, U.N. A mile beyond this, the spire of a neat church rears its head tilinve lIlM rich iurrouiul- ing foliage. A resident eleruvillall Is In charge. Near the church, on n pintly jiilllii({ liolnt, stands the handsome residence of Mia, Hibbnlil. surrounded apparently by that neatnens Hiul cninftii't whieli render a country life desirable, t'lijilitln Lne's flno farm, and one belonging t» Mi', t'ltinplll'll (Into of the North American Hotel), adjulii lliiit of Mrs. Sibbald. The forest is hero i)ioreud eveiv (|imt'tcl' i' bi'illliih of the Talbot lliver falls into the lake, We |iiissed between the main shore nnd Qeorgiiia IhIiiiuI, it llHttifBlly beautiful spot, six miles in length, and eoillallillig perhaps 2UU0 acres. It belongs, like all (he iitliei' isllinds, to the Indians, and is taken care nf by the tlovei'nmeiit for their use as a hunting nnd llxliinK station. Ucavcrtown, or lleavertoii, U it llnurishing little place, contiuns two Baw-inllU mill n gi'lst-mill, and is BU)>ported by a fine Beldiinient III the rear i (lie water would drive exteii«lve iimeliliicry. Onnosite this village is another liidlnil Uliiiul, etillcd Thorah Island, containing oboiil ),'J(I() iiii'eii, Heyoiul this we passed the nnmth of (|il» (Ileal Talbot lliver, over which a bridge was vKllile I'i'oin the boat. We now came to Chowitl'ii Point, In lliu township of Mara, nnd then stretulied lUi'iiss it deep hay, to Creigbtoii Point, Tills !« it lieillltll\il strip of land, containing upwards of UdO (lei'eii, covrred with fine forest frees, among which the elm, llie nsli, the oak, and the maple prednmlimtHi On tills Point the Indians make every spring many (hinisands of pounds of maple sugar. Thl» iKinnlll'liI INilnl, together with the whole frontage, iiiilll we passed through the Narrows (nrohably (Ifteuii miles along the Tir.e of shoie), is the projierty of {'iiptiilii t'i'eiglitoii, of To- ronto, who purchased it as long since as 1831. We now rapidly approached the beautiful entrance to the far-famed Narrows. Lake Simcoe is in length about 45 miles, and varies in breadth from 2 to 20 miles; perhaps the widest part is between Thorah and the county town, Darric. The basin which contains this limpid lake is formed of secondary limestone, alternating with clay and marl. At Holland Landing the lake has evidently receded from the foot of the hill, where Thome's mill now stands. This hill branches off to the north at the Landing, and passing by the rear of the Barrie, skirts the lake until it arrives at the Narrows, where, passing in rear of the little vil- lage of Orillia, it shoota away toward the north-west. On the east shore of the la'.te the soil is said to bo richer than that on the west. This may be occa- sioned by the westerly winds causing the ihbrii of the west bank to be deposited on the shore. The country rises gradually from the water on the cast shore of the lake, until it attains an elevation of 300 feet. The circumference of Lake Simcoe being 120 miles, it is natural to suppose so large a body of water would make for itse'f a channel in some di- rection. This hos been effected at the Narrows, where the hills begin to recede from the lake. At this point there is a perceptible current toward the north, which, increasing as it flows through this contracted highway, acquires the velocity of three or four miles per hour, until it becomes mingled with the waters of the pretty Lake Coochasing. y^ake Coo-cha-sing is 40 miles m circumference, and iorms at its N.W. extremity the river Severn. Here its waters, mingled witii those of Lake Simcoe, are hurried over rocky precipices and rapids, until finally they reach the surface of Lake Huron. The Narrows, from shore to shore, ar ? only 300 yards. The bottom is a greasy marl, throuj, i which the water has worn a channel nine feet dt p, and only thirty feet in width. We saw shoals of largo fish as we passed through, the transparency of the water enabling us to distinguish the class they belonged to nt a depth of several feet. The steamer at length landed us within the little lake, at the village of Orillia. A comfortable inn and clean beds induced us to pro- iong our stay three days. At Orillia a good road conducts the traveller to Coldwatcr, on Lidie Huron. About 2,000 bushels of surplus wheat were pur- chased last winter at Mr. Dallas's fine mills, near the Narrows, for which he mM (and is now paying) 5s. cnsh per bushel. At Holland Landing 10,000 liush- cls were brought from the circuit of the lake, nnd produced the same price. In the Indian village in Lake Coochasing, are quanies of free-stone, lime- stone of several shades and kinds, and abundance of fire-stone. These quarries are worked without the use of gunpowder, and produce slabs of an extraor- dinary size. The day is probably not far off when all the pretty points at the Narrows will be studded with the cottages of gentlemen, attracted thither by the henlthfulness of the climate, the beauty of the scenery, or the richness of the soil. Shooting they will hnve in abundance; nnd the waters abound with maskinongc, the white-fish, salmon-trout, black bass, and herrings of a very fine and large kind: the smrdler fish are also plentiful. Tiny, one of the townships beyond Lake Simcoe, now in progress of settling, is about seventeen miles in length, nnd averages about seven miles in breadth. It is bound-jd on the west and north by Lake Huron, on the cast by Penetanguishene Bay and Ptnetan- I I disturbe apart— 81 deep pla( VOL. U9 eplU us A pro- roail ?ar the \)ush- and igo in lime- ttiicc of lit the xtrnor- wlicn tudileil ther by of the nd with ck bass, I id: tlie I I Slmcoe, ;n miles breadth. I Huron, I'cnetan- FINE COUNTRY ROUND LAKE ONTARIO. 81 cuishcne-road, and nn the south by the Townthii) of Flos. The viilago of t'cnetanculahcno is situntcu on the cast side of this township, near the southiirn extremity of Olnucester Bay. In this villaKo tlit-re are four merchants' stores ; nut thoir trade is chiefly with the Indians for fur. The buildings, with tiiv exception of about four or five, are all nf log. The inhabitants, in all, are probalily about one hundred, and are chieily composed of French Roman Catholic Canadians, a good deal intermixed with half-casto Indians, and arc principtdly dependent on the Air tradine and fishing for their sujiport. There is a Cathouc church and clergyman m the place, and a rather large congregation is aflbrded netweon the village and neighbouring settlement. There are now about a thousand inhabitants, who have grist and snw-mills, and are rapidly thriving. About two miles further north, or up tne Ray, on the Township of Tay Side, th.-re are Oovcrnmont Barracks and a military establishment." On the margin of Lake Ontario, between Toronto and Kingston^ the whole country is extremely fertile and beautifully culti- vated. Port Hope, Cobouvg, Bond Head, and Wliitby are the principal towns and porta. Newcastle harbour, in the township of Gra- hame, is situate somewhat more than half- way between Toronto and Kingston; it is well protected from winds, and almost encircled by a peninsula, which projects in a curve into the lake, forming a basin of sufRcicnt depth for shipping, and affording a good landing. The harbour is somewhat dilUcuil of entrance. Peterborough, the district town of New- castle, is well placed at the foot of a series of rapids formed by numerous scuttcn^d inland lakes and streams. A recent visitor says : — " Between the village of Peterborough and the navigable waters in the rear, a sjiace of eight miles intervenes, presenting a wild turbulent rusli of wa- ters, alternately swift streams, dangerous ra|)ids, and every mile or so a noisy cascade. The river flows through a linestone formation, in some instance! stretching from bank to bank, one hundred yards of solid smooth rock. Beyond this chain of rnpids the waters spread out in every form and shape tlio ima- gination can suggest. Lakes varying in size from one to ten and twelve miles in diameter — the rolling lands covered to the margin with the luxuriant foliage of boundless and magnificent forests; t\.i\ soil singularly fertile; the climate favourable to hu- man health. Along the surface of these waters the voyaj,er may sail m deeply-laden boats for ninety miles east and west, and thirty miles north and south: but the stillness of the forest is around him, with few exceptions nothing greets his gaze savo thi! monotonous ouline of the sombre and gloomy forosti an occasional savage may be seen chasmg the deer, spearing his fishy prey, or awaiting tho dark clouds of wild fowl which resort to these haunts almost un- disturbed. The signs of civilization are fi'w ami far apart — stretching away to the west, and ascending a deep placid river, bounded by high cliffs of limestone, VOL. I, the voyager approaches a fall but little known, yet combining in an eminent degree all the attributes which constitute beauty. From Balsam Lake, an opening of circular form and immense depth, Indian traders are in the habit of ranging the country along tho shoUow streams, until they gain the waters of 8imcoe on one side, and approach those of the Otta- wa on tho other j but as yet no indications of settle- ment or agricultural improvement are perceptible. Descending the stream from that point, we first enter a small lake surrounded with swelling ridges of pine, f^om whence the waters pass through a channel called after an ancient Indian tribe who dwelt upon its margin, and whose groves yet remain — the Otonobee, a name soft and musical it pronounced in the Indian dialect. This stream leads 'he navigator into Rice Lake, from thence he passe'i liown the Trent into the Boy of Quintc. Such are the outlines of the country — such the facilities and difficulties of its naviga- tion." In 1827 the spot on which is now the flour- ishing town of Ouelph, with its surrounding rich agricultural district, was a dense, imtrod- dcn wilderness. Tlie value of the land along tho Detroit river in the western district in- creased 300 per cent, in three years. Dr. Rolph, writing in 1811, stated that " some farmers who would have sold their farms two years ago for 1,200 dollars, have refused this year 20,000 dollars for the very same pro- I)crty." The town plot of London at the forks of tho Thames, was only surveyed in 1826, it now contains Ave thousand inhabitants; a thousand houses; a court house, several temples of worship, large market-place, schools, public libraries, hotels, and many excellent merchants' stores. A fifth of an aero for building fronts, recently sold at the rate of j£100 an acre, whereas the original town lots had cost but J610 an acre. Hamilton is a flourishing town at the western extremity of Ontario. It contains buildings which would be no disgrace to any city in Europe. An extensive nail manu- factory has been established, with machinery cqttal to any other of the kind in America. Forty acres of land that might have been l)ouglit in 1833 for i£600 had so increased itv value in 1839 that one acre sold by pub- lic auction for j61,260. The progress and state of the difierent divisions of Western Canada Avill be shewn when cxaming their products in 1848. Kingston, distant from Toronto, 184, and from Montreal 180 miles, stands in lat. 44° 8', Ion. 76° 40' W,, it is advantageously situate on the north bank of Lake Ontario at tho head of the river St. Lawrence, and separated from Points Frederick and Henry, by a bay which extends a considerable dis- M MM l! H n2 Tim CITY OP KINGSTON— ITS RAPID PROGRESS. tunco to tho N.W, JMiyoiid tlic town, where it rccoivcii tlic wiitorn of a river flowing from the interior. Point Frederick is a long nar- row peniimultt, (ixteiidinff about half a mile into the lake in n H.L. direction, distant from Kin{(«ton about three quarters of a mile. Thin peniuNuln forms the west side of A narrow and dvc|i inlet called Navy Bay, from its bein^ our chief naval dep6t on Lake Ontario. The extremity of tho point is sur- mounted by a iitrong battery, and there is a dockyard with store-houses, &c. Point Henry, which forms the E. side of Navy Bay, is a hiKh narrow rocky ridge, extending into tho lake in the same direc- tion OM Point Frederick. It is crowned by a fort, bitilt on the extremity of the ridge, and oeeupying the lii|rhcst point of gi'ound in this part of Canada. The (lock-yard, storehouses, slips for building ships of war, naval bar- racks, wharfs, &c., arc on an extensive scale; during the war, a first-rate (the St. Lawrence) carrying lOii guns, was built here, and in a case of emergency, a formidable fleet could in a very short time be equipped at Kings- ton. About the year KiOO the French see- ing tho value of this position commenced a settlement, which was at first called by the Indian name of Cataraqui, and subsequently Frontcuoc; but on our conquest of the pro- vince it received its present name. Kingston, next to Quebec and Halifax, is the strongest British post in America, and next to (juebcc and Montreal, the first in commercial importance; it has rapidly risen of late years, by becoming, through the means of tho Ridcau canal, the chief entre- pot between the trade of Eastern Canada, and all the tcttlcments on the great lakes to the westward. In 1828, the population of the city ammintcd to 8,528. In 1848 to 8,.360. The in(!r»!asing value of property is shown in the fact that llishop Macdonnel, in 1816, bought 11 a inter the N.£. part of Ontario, from the Bay of Quints to Sackct's Harbour, is frozen across ; but the wider part of the lake is frozen only to a Hhort distance from the shore. On Lake Erie, which is frozen less than Ontario, there arc about 100 steamers of various sizes, some of them carrying 1,500 passengers at a time to the settlements on Lake Michigan ; the northern parts of Huron and Michigan are more frozen than eitlicr Eric or Ontario ; and Superior is said to he frozen to a distance of 70 miles from its coasts. On Lake Huron there are only a few steamers; and on Lake Superior, a lesser number; but one steamer continually plies to and from Buffalo. The navigation of Ontario closes in October; ice-boats are sometimes used when the ice is glare (smooth). One of these is described by Lieut. De Iloos as 23 feet in length, resting on 3 skates of iron, one attached to each end of a strong cross- bar, fixed under the fore part, — the remain- ing one to the stern, from the bottom of the nidder, the mast and sail are those of a com- mon boat : when brought into play on the ice, she could sail (if it may be so termed), with fearful rapidity, nearly 23 miles fin hour. In addition to her speed before the wind, she is also capable of beating well up to windward, — requiring, however, an expe- rienced hand to manage her, in consequence of the extreme sensibility of the rudder dur- ing her quick motion. The appearance of the N.E. extremity of Ontario, at its junction with the St. Law- rence river at Kingston, is so strikingly beautiful, as to have obtained for it the poetical appellation of the "Lake of the Thousand Isles." As the St. Lawrence issues from Ontario, it is 12 miles wide, divided into two channels by Wolfe Island, which is 7 miles broad, the widest channel on the N. side being 3i miles across. The second British township, Leeds, 32 miles below Kingston (at the mouth of the Gannanoqui river) has an excellent harbour: the river continues narrowing down to Prescott, which is distant 62 miles from Kingston, 243 from Toronto, and 385 from Quebec. Prescott is well defended by its stronghold, Fort Wellington, which com- mands the navigation of the river. A few miles below Prescott the St. Law- rence commences flowing rapidly,* and has a shallow course for four miles, with a speed of from six to eight miles an hour, inter- rupted by two small rapids, the Du Plat ami Galoose, half a mile, and a mile and a half long. ' The most difficult rapid is the Long Saiilt, in front of Osnaburgh above Corn- waU (46 miles from Montreal) which is about 9 miles long, intersected by several islands, through whose channels the water rushes with velocity, so that boats are carried on it at the rate of 27 miles an hour; at the foot of the Rapid, the water takes a sudden leap over a slight precipice, whence its name. The Cedar Rapids, 24 miles from La Chine, arc 9 miles long, and very intricate; the waters run at the rate of from 9 to 12 miles an hour, mth in some places only 10 feet depth in the channel. The Coteau du Lac rapid, 6 miles above the Cedars, is 2 miles long, intricate, and in some places only 16 feet wide. To improve the navigation between East- em and Western Canada, and to place the internal traffic beyond the reach of molesta- tion during any war that might unfortunately occur with America, has been a leading ob- ject with the British government and local legislature, and large sums have consequently been expended on difierent public works, and especially on canals. The Rideau Cunal. — This far-famed un- dertaking, which is not, properly speaking, a canal, but rather a succession of waters raised by means of dams, with natural lakes intervening, commences at a small bay, called Entrance Bay, in the Ottawa, 128 miles from Montreal, and 150 fi'om Kings- ton, in N. lat. 45° 30', W. long. 76° 50'— about a mile below the Falls of Chaudiere, and one mile and a half above the point where the Rideau river falls hito the Ottawa. From Entrance Bay the canal is entered by eight locks; it then passes through a natural gully, crosses Dow's Swamp — which is flooded by means of a mound — Peter's gully, by means of an aqueduct, and joins the Rideau river at the Hog's Back, about six miles from Entrance Bay. At the Hog's Back there is a dam 45 feet high, and 400 long, which, by throwing back the river, converts about 7 miles of rapids into still, navigable water. The canal rises into the river by means of a lock. A series of locks and dams now commences, with occasional embankments. ii! i- 84 THE RIDEAU, AND WELLAND CANALS. At the Black Rapids there arc a dam and lock, 138 milts from Montreal ; a dam, three locks, and two embankments, at Long Island Rapids, which render the river navi- gable for 2'J! miles, to Barret's Rapids, 167 miles from Montreal; 8 dams and 14 locks bring the canal to Olive's Ferry, 210 miles from Montreal, where the Rideau Lake contracts to 463 feet wide, and a ferry con- nects the road between Perth and Broek- ville. At the Upper Narrows, 16 miles further, the Rideau Lake contracts again to about 80 feet across, over which a dam is thro\vn with a lock of 4 feet lift, forming the Upper Rideau Lake into a summit pond of 291 feet above Entrance Bay, in the Ottawa; 6 miles further is the isthmus, which separates the Upper Rideau Lake from Mud Lake, the source of the River Cataraqui. The canal is cut through this isthmus, which is one mile and a half wide ; 5 miles lower down is the Isthmus Clear Lake, 330 feet wide, through which a cut is made, to avoid the rapids of the natural channel. From thence to Cranberry Marsh, 17 miles from Isthmus Clear Lake, 255 miles from Montreal, and 23 from Kingston, there are 3 dams and 6 locks. The Marsh is about 78 feet above the level of Kingston harbour, and about 8 miles long. Be- sides flowing into the Cataraqui river, the waters of this marsh or lake burst out at White Fish Fall, and flow into the Ganna- noqui river, which is the waste weir for regulating the level of the water in the Ri- deau Lake (the summit pond); thus the water in the whole line of canal, whether in times of flood or drought, is kept at a steady height. At Brewer's Upper and Lower Mills, 18 and 1 7 miles &om Kingston, there are 3 dams and 3 locks; and at Kings- ton Mills, 5 miles from Kingston, one dam and 4 locks. The Canal, or Cataraqui River, falls into Kingston Bay at these mills, at a distance from Montreal of 273 miles. The canal now described opens, it will be perceived, a water communication between Kingston and the Ottawa, a distance of 132 miles, by connecting together several pieces of water lying in that direction, viz. : Kings- ton Mill-stream, Cranberry Lake, Mud Lake, Rideau Lake and river, the length of the cuts not exceeding 20 miles. The difference of level is 445 feet; about 20 miles are exca- vated some parts of the distance through rocks. There are 47 locks, each 142 feet in length, 33 in breadth, and with a water depth of 5 feet, which admit vessels under 125 tons. The expenditure on this canal greatly exceeded the original estimate, which was only .€169,000 — the next, before the plan of enlarging the locks was adopted, amounted to jK186,000, which was raised bv the addition of the locks to .€762,673 ; but the total expenditure is now calculated to ex- ceed one million sterling. The locks were originally planned upon a scale to correspond with those on La Chine canal, i. e. 100 feet by 20 ; these dimensions were subsequently increased to 142 feet in length by 33 in width, with a depth of 5 feet Avater; hence a considerable augmentation of expense. The canal has been in use 16 years, and every part of it looks fresh and perfect as when flrst finished. At each lock station, neat lock-master's houses have been built, trees planted, and grass-plats formed ; the whole surrounded by substantial iron railings, stone walls, or wooden fences. A more striking proof of the good effect of this fine canal can scarcely be desired, than that 15 years ago there was but one farm on the long bend of the Rideau river, 27 miles, while now there is scarcely an im- settled lot. The country along the banks of the canal, and the shores of its numerous lakes, is very generally occupied. The for- mer hamlet of Newborough, at the Isthmus, has become a thriving, well-built, and popu- lous village, with stores, taverns, post oflSee, &c. Westport, on the Upper Rideau Lake, is also thriving. Tlie land around is good, crops excellent, and settlements are forming in the interior. The Wetland Canal connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. It was not undertaken by government, but by a company incorpo- rated by the legislature in 1825. This canal communicates with Lake Ontario by the Twelve-mile Creek, and is conducted over the range of hills forming the barrier of Lake Erie, at the Falls of Niagara, by means of locks, until it meets the Chippawa at 8J miles from its mouth, which it thcu ascends for about 11 miles, and joins the Ouse upon Lake Eric at about one mile and a half from its mouth : the shifting bar at the entrance of the Ouse being remedied by piers extending into deep water beyond the bar. The length of the canal is 42 miles, its width 56 feet, and its depth SJ : the summit level is 330 feet, the ascending locks are 37 in number (made of wood), 22 feet wide, and 100 feet long. The cost place Mont La the depth whole length propel and i;i37,( Pany, return exemp The and hf Saiilt : THE GRENVILLE, LA CHINE, AND COllNWALL CANALS. 85 of this canal hiis been upwards of .£50{),0()0; but it now yields a rapidly increasing return for the capital expended. Tlic Grenville Canal consists of three sections, one at the Long Sault on the Ot- tawa — another at the fall called the Chdte & lllondeau, 60 miles from Montreal and 218 from Kingston — and a third at the Carillon llapids, 56 miles from Montreal and 222 from Kingston, opening into the Lake of the Two Mountains, through which an un- interrupted navigation is maintained by steam-boats to La Chine, 9 miles above the city of Montreal. This canal renders the navigation of the Ottawa, between the Ri- deau and Montreal, complete. All the locks on the Carillon, and on the Chilte h Blon- deau, are of the same size as on the Rideau; but on a part of the Grenville canal, which was commenced before the large scale was adopted, some locks, and a part of the cut- tings, will only admit boats 20 feet wide; the locks on La Chine also are calculated for boats only 20 feet wide ; the navigation for boats above 20 feet wide is interrupted at the Grenville Canal, and if large boats be used on the Bideau, and on the higher part of the Ottawa, all goods must be un- shinped on arriving at the Grenville canal, am! either be conveyed by portage, or re- moved to smaller boats. The Jistanee from Kingston, on Lake Ontario, to Bytown, where the Rideau river joins the Ottawa, is about 150 miles j from Bytown to the Grenville canal, 64 miles — total 214 miles, through the whole of which line, the locks and cuttings are of a size to admit steam-boats 134 feet long and 33 feet wide, and drawing 5 feet of water. The Montreal communication with the Ottawa, by the canal between the former place and Lake St. Louis, at La Chine, near Montreal, is termed — La Chine Canal — and is 28 feet wide at the bottom, 48 at the water line, has 5 feet depth of water, and a to^ving-path ; the whole fall is 42 feet with the locks; the length being about 7 miles. It is the property of a company; was begun in 1821, and completed in 3 years, at a cost of jK 1 37,000, which was defrayed by the com- pany, slightly assisted by government, in return for which aid the public service is exempt from toll. The Cornwall Canal is 12 miles in length, and has 6 locks, which obviate the Long Saidt rapids. The locks are on a large scale. capable of admitting first-class steamers on the river, and its stone work is very mawsivo. By means of the great and useful works just mentioned, a large extent of country is opened up to the industry of British settlers: there is continuous steam-boat communica- tion in Upper Canada for about 460 miles, viz., from the Grenville canal, on the Ot- tawa, to Niagara. M..ny other canals are in contemplation, some even commenced, such as that projected between the Bay of Quinte and Lake Huron, through Lake Simcoc, which will render us independent of the Americans on the Detroit river. The Thames is also to be made navigable for steam-boats, from Chatham up to the Port of London: and if railroads do not take the place of canals, there is little douljt of the greater part of Canada being, iu a few years, intersected by them. The value of canals and steam navigation may be judged of from the fact, that, in 1812, the news of the declaration of war against Great Britain, by the United States, did not reach the post of Michilimakinac (1,107 miles from Quebec) in a shorter time than two mouths; the same place is now within the distance of ten days' journey from the Atlantic. A similar remark applies yet more strongly to railways. The route from Montreal to Kingston, 171 miles by the St. Lawrence, and 267 miles by the llideau canal, via St. Ann's, is now performed by a large, fast, and elegant class of steamers, passing down the Long Sault rapids to the C6te du Lac, and returning by the Cornwall canal. From the C6te du Lac to the Cascades there is 10 miles to be travelled by stage, thence to Laehine by steamer, and thence to Montreal 9 miles more by stage. The voyage may also be performed iu a smaller class of steamers, which pass down all the rapids direct to Montreal, and return by the Ri- deau canal. The trip round occupies 8 days. About 30 small steamers and pro- pellers are employed on this line. Recently a fine screw schooner, named the Adventure, belonging to the " Toronto and St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Company," went from To- ronto to Montreal (470 miles) laden mth freight, iu 2J days. Western Canada was divided by the Act 8 Vic. c. 7, into 20 districts, which are again subdivided into 32 counties, for the more effectual legislative representation and the registration of property. The counties are laid out in townships, surveyed, and prepared for location. m DISTRICTS, COUNTIES, AND TOWNSHIPS OF W. CANADA IN IHlh. DiatricU. Bnth\iret Brock . C'i)lli(irne Dalhouitio Bontern . Core . . Home Huron . Jtilinstown liondon . Midland Ni'wcnstle . Ottawa . Niaprara . I'riiice Edward Simcoo . Talbot . Victoria . Wellington Western Ti)wn« not Itepreacntcd. Perth . AVnndstock . I'etrrhorough liraiilford Duiii'an Oiidcrirh Prescolt Port Hope Cobourg St. Catlicrine's Picton . Belleville Countici, Hidings, and I'itien. Unite.l I':"""/'' (Uvnfrcw Oxford . Peterborough C'arletoii llytown, town of Stonnont . Dundan Oleiigiirry Cornwall, town Wentworth Halton Hamilton, city . /North riding York i?™"> • I Wert . Toronto, city Huron Orenvillo . Leeds Ilrockville, town Middlesex . London, town Frontennc ,, .. , (Lennox I Addington Kingstown, city Durliani Xortlmmberland Present t Itassell Lincoln Welland . Ilaldimand Niagara, town Prince Kdward Simcoc Norfolk . Hastings . Waterloo . Kssex Kent Number iif Town- ships in each County. Population of Counties. 13 11 / 10 10 11 4 -t 6 21 5 11 17 15 3 6 6 23 7 12 27 8 21 20,210 21,370 10,245 G,275 11,-171 10,723 15,00,'> 1,-154 10,54(1 20,580 0,880 17,050 21,033 24,530 20,230 23,603 Population of Districts. 20,450 17,100 23,835 2,449 41,003 4,584 17,311 6,484 13,135 8,369 23,340 24,087 8,663 1,701 17,774 17,732 12.710 3,100 18,001 23,000 15,716 23,1,33 41,439 12,630 14,810 20, UH 20,210 21,370 25,520 38,653 50,0U 100,352 20,I5() 43,144 46,547 45,249 47,433 10,364 51,325 18,0(>1 2j,06ft 15,710 23,i:i3 41,430 27.410 72;!,247 (,,or>o DISTHTCTS IN WESTERN CANADA. «7 Tlic cities lire Toronto, Kinj(ston, and Iluniiiton; the incorporntecl towiiit, Bytowii, CornwoU, Urockvillc, Prescott, I'icton, Belle- ville, Cobiirp, Port Hope, Ninjinrn, St, Vi\- tiierines, London, Pctcrboro, IJrantford, and DiindiM. The province of Western Canada has jrcn- crally been viewed in three great (lirisioiis, — tlie (1) Eastern, (2) Central, and (3) Western. The first comprises the districts W. and N.W. of Montreal, lying between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, and N. of the Ot- tawa. It includes the Eastern, Johnstown, Ottawa, and Bathurst districts. The Eastern district commences at the boundary line separating Eastern from Western Canada, and runs along the St. Lawrence, with part of Lake St. Francis (an expansion of the St. Lawrence) and the Long Sault rapids in front, until it reaches the adjoining district of Johnstown ; inland it is bounded by the Ottawa district. A range of elevated table-land commences at Loehiel and runs diagonally to the town- ship of Matilda, whence it passes into the adjoining district. The Eastern district is rich, well watered, cultivated, and fertile ; some of it has been granted to discharged soldiers, a good deal to the children of New England loyalists, and the Canada Company possesses some lots in it. The district in the rear of the one just described, and bordering on the S. shore of the Ottawa, from the Rideau river to the St. Lawrence, is termed the Ottiiwji district ; it is but thinly settle' the lands are good, but low and mai^hy ; along the Rideau canal cultivation is progressing, and as civi- lization increas«-s, th«>'its admirably qualify them for emigrants. Tlie next division, as we proceed westward, is the long and extensive tract formerly called the Midland District, but now sub- divided into the Prince Edward and other districts. The base or southern extremity of this tract rests on the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, in the parallel of H° N., its northern boundary extends to Uf 30 , and is terminated on the N.E. by the Ottawa river. The preceding districts form the eastern section of the province, and jjresent gene- rally a moderately elevated table-land, de- clining towards it numerous water-courses ; the forcst-tim1)er is large and lofty, aiul of every variety. The soil, though moist and marshy in many places, is extremely rich, consisting chiefly of a brown clay and yellow loam, admirably adapted to the growth of wheat and every species of grain ; the rivers and lakes are extremely numerous ; of the former may be mentioned as the most remarkable, the Rideau, Petite Nation, Mississippi, and Maduwnska, which have their sources far in the interior, gene- rally to the westward, and which full into the Ottawa : the Gannanoqui, Raisin, Cuta- raqui, Napanec, Salmon, Moira, and i)art of the Trent discharge themselves into the Bay of Quintc and the St Lawrence : these streams, besides fertilizing the lauds through which they flow, afford, many of them, con- venient inland communications, and turn numerous grist, carding, fulling, and saw- mills. Besides numerous lesser lakes, there arc the Rideau, Gannanoqui, White (Hender- son's) Mud, Denl, Indian, Clear, Irish, Loughborough, Mississippi, Olden, Claren- don, Barrie, Stoke, Marmora, Collins, Blun- der, Angus, and Ossinieon. There are many roads tliroughout the section ; the principal one is n) Ms; the St. Lawrence, between Montrea ,.iid Kingston, traversing Cornwall nnd Lancaster, through which a line of stage-coinhes run between the two provinces I very la\^ :ul day, when steam-boats cannot travel. Kingston, the maritime capital of Western Canada, has to the westward the fine Quinte tract, in a prosperous state of cultivation. Bytown, in Nepean, on tho S. bank of the Ottawa, is most picturesquely situate. if. til I i 88 CENTRAL DIVISION OF WESTERN CANADA. Perth is a tliriving village in the township of Drummond, on a braneh of the Rideau, occupying a central position between the Ottawa and St. Lawrence. There are several other rising settlements. The second or central division of Upper Canada embraces the large districts formerly called Newcastle and Home, with a frontage of 1 20 miles along Lake Ontario, in 44° 30' N. lat., and stretching back northerly to the Ottawa, Nipissing Lake, and French river in 46'' 30' N. lat. By the Act 8 Vic. c. 7, this extensive tract has been separated into several districts. [See map of Western Canada.] The soil throughout this large district is generally good : and though the population is numerous, compared with other districts, there is yet abundance of room for more settlers. It is well watered by the Rice, Balsam, Trout, and other lakes, and by the Otanabee rivers, part of the Trent, &c. The extensive territory adjoining Newcastle, with its N. W. extremity resting on Georgian Bay (an inlet of Lake Huron) is termed the Home District : it contains the capital of Upper Canada, Toronto (late York). The central section of Upper Canada does not fall short in fertility, cither of the east or west portions of the province : it is well watered, the Nottawasaga, Holland, Mus- ketchsebe, Beaver, Talbot, and Black rivers fall into Lake Simcoe; the Credit, Etobi- coke, Humber, and Don rivers flow into Lake Ontario. There are excellent roads throughout the section. The third section of the province, termed the Western, inclndes the Gore, Niagara, London, Western, and other districts ; and, circumscribed as it is by the waters of the great La' ca, Ontario, Erie, and Huron, it may be considered a vast equilateral tri- angular peninsula, with its base extending from Fort Erie to Cape Ilurd, on Lake Huron, measuring 216 miles, and a perpen- dicular striking the Detroit river at Am- herstburgh, of about 195 miles in length, with an almost uniformly level, or slightly undulating surface, except a few solitarj' eminences, and a ridge of slightly elevated table-land in the Gore and Niagara districts, averaging 100 feet, and at some points ap- proaching to 350 feet in height. The whole tract is alluvial in its formation, consisting chiefly of a stratum of black and sometimes of yellow loam, above which is found, when in a state of nature, a rich and deep vege- table mould. The substratum is a tenacious grey or blue clay, sometimes appearing at the surface, intermixed with sand. Through- out the country, there is almost a total absence of stones or gravel, within arable depth, but numerous and extensive quarries exist, which furnish abundant supplies for building, &c. The forests are remarkable for the steady growth and the rich foliage of their trees: in several places immense prairies or natui'al meadows exist, extending for hundreds of miles, and with the vista delightfully relieved by occasional clumps of oak, white pine, and poplar, as if planted by man with a view to ornament. With a delicious climate stretching from 42° to 44° N. latitude, it is not to be wondered at that this section is the favourite of Western or Upper Canadi. The district to the southward of Gore, and termed Niagara, from being bounded to the E. by the river and cataract of that name, is one of the flncst and richest tracts in the world, and most eligibly situate in a bight, between the magnificent sheets of water, Erie and Ontario. The scenery throughout this part of Ca- nada is extremely picturesque. Fort George, or Niagara, is the sea-port (if it may be so called) of the district; the fort is strong, and the neat town all bustle and gaiety, owing to the frequent arrival and departure of steam-boats, sloops, and other vessels. The London district and its recent subdi- visions have the advantage of a great extent of water frontier, along the shores of Lakes Eric and Huron, besides a large portion of the Thames, and the river Ouse on Lake Eric, and Aux Sables and Maitland on Lake Huron. London town is in the heart of a fertile country, on the banks of the fine river Thames, and will no doubt rapidly increase. About the central part of the north coast of Lake Erie, colonel Talbot founded a settlement which reflects credit on his head and heart. Ever since the year 1802 this benevolent man has persevered in opening the fine country around him to the English emigrant. Tlie Upper Canada Company have some of their land in this district. The scenery around, especially on the river Mait- land, is more English-like than that of any other in America. Extensive roads are now making in every direction, and the London district offers a most eligible spot for the consideration of the intending settler 80 a head this ' every ; ffers a ion of] CHAPTER III. GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, SOIL, AND CLIMATE. In briefly sketching the leading geological features of our Colonies, I beg to be vinder- stood as doing no more than registering such facts and observations as have yet been re- marked by those who have made it their study to extend the limited knowledge as yet possessed concerning the surface of our globe. I would further beg to remind my readers, that the geology of a country not only indicates the quality of the soil, but exercises an important influence on the salubrity of the climate. Following the arrangement adopted in the preceding chapter, I begin with the geology and mineralogy of Lower or Eastern Canada. There are in America as manifest traces of an universal deluge as on the lofty Hima- laya chain: boulder-stones are distributed in vast quantities all over the country ; sometimes the^ are found rounded and piled in heaps of immense height, on extensive horizontal beds of limestone, as if swept there by the action of water; shells of various kinds, especially fresh-water clams, cockles, and periwinkles, are in abundance ; of the latter, masses have been found several hundred feet above the level of Lake Onta- rio. In the vicinity of large rivers, and even in many instances remote from them, undu- lating rocks are seen, exactly similar to those found in the beds of rapids where the chan- nels are waved. The wavy rocks are termed provincially, ice shoves. On the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, detached boulder- stones of an enormous size (20 tons weight) are met with ; they differ from those found inland, are very hard, of a blackish -grey col- our, not veined, but with pointed particles of a brilliant appearance : how they came there it is difficult to judge, the rocks of the shores being composed of a slaty limestone. The fossil organic remains are numerous, and consist of productse, terebratula;, ortho- ceratites, trilobites, and encriuites ; these are found on the surface or upper strata, but rarely below. These records of a former animal existence, distinct from any known in the present day, are intimately blended with the limestone in which they are en- tcrabed. VOL. I. That the whole country has been sub- jected to some violent convulsion, subse- quent to the Deluge, would appear from the singular contortions of the rivers, and the immense chasms in the mountains; from the indications of volcanic eruptions at St. Paul's Bay and north of Quebec • and also from the vast masses of alluvial rocks met with on the surfaci of the earth, which have the ap^^earance of vitrifaction. The Ameri- can continent generally, and the configura- tion and geology of Western Canada in par- ticular, appear to me to afford indications of having but recently emerged from the ocean, and that at no very distant period of time (comparatively speaking), instead of a conti- nent, there was only a succession of islands and rocks. So far as we know, the geological struc- ture of Canada exhibits a granitic region, accompanied with calcareous rocks of a soft texture, and in horizontal strata. The pre- vailing rocks in the Alleghany mountains are granite, which is found generally in vast strata, and sometimes in boulders between the mountains and the shore; graywacke and clay-slate also occur with limestone ; va- rious other rocks, usually detached, present themselves. The lower islands of the St. Lawrence are mere inequalities of the vast granitic region which occasionally emerges above the level of the river; the Kamouraska islands, and the Penguins in particidar, exhibit this appearance ; and in Kamouraska and St. Anne's parishes, lai'ge masses of primitive granite rise in sharp conical hills (one is 500 feet high), in some places with smooth sides and scarcely a fissure, in others full of fissures, and clothed with pine-trees which have taken root in them ; the whole country appeai'ing as if the St. Lawrence had at a former period entirely covered the land. At St. Roche, the post-road leads for more than a mile under a perpendicular ridge of granite 300 feet high. The banks of the St. Lawrence are in several places com- posed of a schistous substance in a decay- ing or mouldering condition, but still in every quarter granite is found in strata more or less inclined to the horizon, but never N ^. 90 EARTHQUAKE IN QUEBEC, A.D. 1663. parallel with it. In the Gasp^ district numerous and beautiful specimens of quartz have been obtained, including a great variety of cornelian, and agate, opal, and jasper: indications of coal have also been traced. The limestone stone formation extends, according to a recent calculation, over 30,000 square miles; the dip is moderate, and the strata of limestone generally undis- turbed. The N. shore of the St. Lawrence from Quebec to its mouth, and round the coast of Labrador, offers a rich field for the miner- alogist; much of the coast bordering on the gulf being primitive, or of the earlier formations. According to some observers, the N. coast below the St. Lawrence exhibits trap -rocks, clay-slate, various detached rocks, and granite occasionally; the latter being supposed to prevail in the inteiior of the country, forming the base of the Labrador mountains and the coast of Quebec. Cape Tourment (30 miles from Quebec) is a round, massive, granite mountain about 1000 feet high. The immediate bed of the fall of Montmorenci is a horizontal shelf of dark grey limestone, of the kind called primitive or crystalline. Except in the bogs or marshes, rocks obtrude on the surface in all quarters, and in many parts there exist deep fissures from 6 inches to 2 feet wide, which appear to have been split by the action of fire, or some volcanic shock. The Indians say these rents occasionally extend severial miles in length, about a foot in breadth, and from 40 to 50 feet in depth : and frequently form dangerous pitfalls, being hidden from view by creeping shrubs. These appearances seem to confirm the following graphic, but scarcely credible account of a terrific earthquake, contained in an old manuscript preserved in the Jesuits' College at Quebec : — " On the 5th of Febru- ary, 1663, about half-past five o'clock in the evening, a great rushing noise was heard throughout the whole extent of Canada. This noise caused the people to run out of their houses into the streets, as if their habitations had been on fire ; but instead of flames or smoke, they were surprised to see the walls reeling backwards and forwards, and the stones moving, as if they were de- tached from each other. The bells sounded by the repeated shocks. The roofs of the buildings bent down, first on one side and then ou the other. The timbers, lafi-eis, and planks cracked. The earth trembled violently, and caused the stakes of the pali- sades and palings to dance, in a manner that would have been incredible, had we not actually seen it many places. It was at this moment every one ran out of doors. Then were to be seen animals flying in every direction ; children crying and screaming in the streets; men and women, seized with aftright, stood horror-struck with the dread- ful scene before them, unable to move, and ignorant where to fly for refuge from the tottering walls and trembling earth, which threatened every instant to cruaU them to death, or sink them into a profound or im- measurable abyss. Some threw themselves on their knees in the snow, crossing their breasts and calling on their saints to relieve them from the dangers with which they were surrounded. Others passed the rest of this dreadful night in prayer ; for the earth- quake ceased not, but continued at short intervals, with a certain undulating impulse, resembling the waves of the ocean ; and the same qualmish sensations, or sickness at the stomach was felt during the shocks as is experienced in a vessel at sea. " The violence of the earthquake was greatest in the forests, where it appeared as if there was a battle raging between the trees; for not only their branches were des- troyed, but even their trunks are said to have been detached from their places, and dashed against each other with inconceivable violence and confusion — so much so, that the Indians, in their figurative manner of speaking, declared that all the forests were drunk. The war also seemed to be carried on between the mountains, some of which were torn from their beds and thrown upon others, leaving immense chasms in the places from whence they had issued, and the very trees with which they were covered sunk down, leaving only their tops above the sur- face of the earth ; others were completely overturned, their branches buried in the earth, and the roots only remained above ground. During this general wreck of na- ture, the ice, upwards of six feet thick, was rent and thrown up in large pieces, and from the openings, in many parts, there issued thick clouds of smoke, or fountains of dirt and sand, which spouted up to a very considerable height. The springs were either ehoaked up, or impregnated with sulphur — many rivers were totally lost; others were diverted from their coui-sc, and their waters entirely corrupted. Some of them became yellow, others red, and the great river of St. Lawrence appeared entirely white, as far na- \ EFFECTS OF THE EARTHQUAKE IN EASTERM CANADA. 91 down as Tadoussac. This extraordinary plienomenon must astonish those who know the size of the river, and the immense body of water in various parts, which must have required a great abundance of matter to whiten it. They write from Montreal that during the earthquake, they plainly saw the stakes of the picketing, or palisades, jump up as if they had been dancing ; and that of two doors in the same room, one opened and the other shut of their own accord ; that the chimneys and tops of the houses bent like branches of trees agitated with the wind ; that when they went to walk they felt the earth following them, and rising at every step they took, sometimes sticking against the soles of their feet and other tilings, in a very forcible and surprising manner. " From Three Rivers they write, that the first shock was the most violent, and com- menced with a noise resembling thunder. The houses were agitated in the same man- ner as the tops of trees during a tempest, 'frith a noise as if fire was crackling ii the ;; rrets. The shock lasted half an hour or i lier better, though its greatest force was properly not more than a quarter of an hour ; and we believe there was not a single shock which did not cause the earth to open either more or less. " As for the rest, we have remarked, that iiough this earthquake continued almost without intermission, yet it was not always of an equal violence. Sometimes it was like the pitching of a large vessel which dragged heavily at her anchors ; and it was this mo- tion which occasioned many to have a giddi- I ncss in their heads, and qualmishness at j their stomachs. At other times the motion was hurred and irregular, creating sudden 1 jerks, some of which were extremely violent; but the most common was a slight tremulous motion, which occui-red frequently with little noise. Many of the French inhabi- tants and Indians, who were eye-witnesses to the scene, state, that a great way up the river of Trois Rivieres, about eighteen miles from Quebec, the hills which bordered the river on cither side, and which were of a prodigious height, were torn from their foundations, and plunged into the river, causing it to change its course, and spread itself over a large tract of land recently cleared; the broken earth mixed with the waters, and for several months changed the colour of the great river St. Lawrence, into which that of Trois Rivieres disembogues itself. In the course of this violent convul- sion of nature, lakes appeared where none ever existed before: mountains were over- thrown, swallowed up by the gaping, or precipitated into adjacent rivers, leaving in their places frightful chasms or level plains; falls and rapids were changed into gentle streams, and gentle streams into falls and rapids. Rivers in many parts of the countir sought other beds, or totally disappeared. The earth and the mountains were entirely split and rent in innumerable places, cre- ating chasms and precipices whose depths have never yet been ascertained. Such devastation was also occasioned in the woods, that more than a thousand acres in our neighbourhood were completely overturned ; and where but a short time before nothing met the eye but one immense forest of trees, now were to be seen extensive cleared lands, apparently cut up by the plough. "At Tadoussac (about 150 miles below Quebec on the north side) the effect of the earthquake was not less violent than in other places ; and such a heavy shower of volcanic ashes fell in that neighbourhood, particularly in the river St. Lawrence, that the waters were as violently agitated as during a tempest. (The Indians say that a vast volcano exists in Labrador.) Near St. Paul's Bay (about 50 miles below Quebec on the north side), a mountain about a quarter of a league in circumference, situ- ated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, was precipitated into the river, but as if it had only made a plunge, it rose from the bottom, and became a small island, formiitg with the shore a convenient harboiu", well sheltered from all winds. Lower down the river, towards Point Alouettcs, an entire forest of considerable extent wa.s loosened from the main bank, and slid into the river St. Law- rence, where the trees took fresh root. There are three circumstances, however, which have rendered this extraordinary earthquake particularly remarkable : the first is its duration, it having continued from February to August, that is to say, more than six months almost without inter- mission ! It is true, the siiocks were not always equally violent. In several places, aa towards the motmtains behind Quebec, the thundering noise and trembling motion con- tinued successively for a considerable time. In others, as towards Tadoussac, the shock continued generally for two or three days at a time with much violence. "The second circumstance relates to the extent of this earthquake, which we believe 92 GEOLOGY OF THE OTTAWA DISTRICT. was universal througho'it the whols of New France, for we learn that it waa felt from I' Isle Pcrs^e and Gasp^, which are situated at the mouth of the St. Lawrence, to beyond Montreal, as also in New England, Acadia, and other places more remote. As far as it has come ' our knowledge, this earthquake extended .jore than 600 miles in length, and about 300 in breadth. Hence, 180,000 square miles of land were convulsed in the same day, and at the same moment. "The third circumstance, which appears the most remarkable of all, regards the ex- traordinary protection of Divine Providence, which has been extended t^ us and our habitations ; for we have seen near us the large openings and chasms which th". eai-th- quake occasioned, and the prodigious extent of country which has been either totally lost or hideously convulsed, without our losing either man, woman, or ehild, or even having a hair of their heads touched." The extensive Ottawa region has been imperfectly explored. Mr. T. S. Hunt, chemist and mineralogist to the Provincial and GcD'ogical Survey, in an excellent re- port on the rocks along the Ottawa, dated April, 1848, says, that the limestone there is invariably highly crystalline, and some- times very coarse-grained in its structure; at other times its texture is very fine, form- ing what is termed saccharoidal limestone ; and occasionally the grain is so fine, as to yield a marble fit for the artist. The crys- talline limestones of the Ottawa underlie uncomformably the silurian rocks of the country, and are interstratified with sienitic gneiss. Near Perth, Dr. Wilson, who has enriched the mincralogicnl knowledge of the province, has discovered a locality of apatite, or phosphate of lime. It is found in a bed of coarse crystalline limestone, tinged of a flesh-red, and often embracing grains of pyroxene. The crystals are from half to one inch diameter. One crystal was found 12 inches in length and 9i in cir- cumference. The apatite is translucent, of a delicate celandine green colour; the angles of the crystals are invariably rounded, and the terminations rarely distinct — looking, indeed, as if they had been half fused after their formntion. The value of pV Dspbate of lime in the shape of guano and bone powder is now fully recognized; sevcjrai plants, especially wheat, largely extract it fiom the soil, and thus impoverish the land. Canada possesses in it an almost inexhaustible supply of a fertilizing product for the exhausted wheat lands in the seigneuries. Mineral corundum — the emery of the East Indies, so useftd for polishing gems — is found in the neighbourhood of the Ottawa, as is also heavy spar, or sulphate of barytes in gneiss, either massive or in thin bladed crystals. This is very extensively used in Europe and America to mix with white lead, and also as a paint, under the name of permanent white. The crude material is worth from 8 to 10 dollars per ton. Va- rious other semi-metallic products, and also copper, are found in this locality. There are several " saline," " sulphuric," " sour," " gas," and warm and cold springs in the province. The Charlotteville siil- phur spring yields 26'8 cubic inches of sulphuretted hydrogen gas to the gallon of water, while the strongest of the celebrated Harrowgate springs yields but 14 cubic inches. The " Tuacarora," or " sour" spring, is situated in the county Wentworth, Canada West, 9 miles S. of BrantforJ, and 3 miles S. of the bank of the Grand river. The water is of a very unusual character, — it is acid, sulphureous, and emits gas : sul- phuric acid is the predominant ingredient. The various mineralogical substances found in Eastern Canada, and capable of application to useful purposes, are the magnetic and specular oxydes of iron, bog iron ore, and iron ochre, chromic iron, wad or bog man- ganese ore, copper ore, gold, granite, and other descriptions of stone, suited for build- ing; for mill and whetstones, flagstones, roofing slates, marble serpentine, soapstones, magnesite, dolomite, and common lime- stone, brick and potter's clay, and shellmarl. The only gold yet found was obtained in the vicinity of Sherbrooke; but the same general geological formation being traceable from Gaspe, through the United States to Geor- gia, the Carolinas, and Virginia, and even to Mexico, — it is not improbable that this precious metal may yet be found extensively in Eastern Canada. There are inexhaustible quantities of fine granite in va)ious localities ; it pres-^nts an even mixture of translucent white quartz and opaque white feldspar, with a brownish- black mica, sparingly, but equally dissem- inated: it is capable of being readily split with wedges into rectangular blocks. Shellmarl, so valuable for manure, is found in difl^erent places: on the land of Mr. Martin, to the east of Stanstead Plains, there is a bed of comminuted fresh water m GEOLOGY AROUND LAKES SUPERIOR AND HURJi>f. 93 fine Its an Luartz fnish- Issem- split te, is id of hains, ■water shells, of 50 to 100 acres in extent. In another place the fresh water shells have a depth of several feet, and rest on a deposit of marine shells of the tertiary age. The soapstone, which is the same material as French chalk, mixed with oil, is now used for house painting. A decomposed talcose slate forms a white-wash instead of lime, and produces a dirty white, or light ash-grey colour. Soapstone is also used as a Uning for ovens, furnaces, and fireplaces; and from its long retention of heat, a piece of soap- stone heated in the fire, and wrapped in a blanket, is found useful in long Canadian winter journeys. A bed of the silicious rock termed jas- per, 6 feet in thickness, exists at Sher- brooke ; it is cut into boxes, chimney orna- ments, knife handles, &c. Large blocks of serpentine, resembUng the celebrated verd antique, are found near Orford. The geology of the country around the great lakes has been investigated by several distinguished English and American ex- plorers. Lake Superior. — The whole S. coast of this vast inland sea is stated by Mr, School- craft, an American gentleman who formed part of a government expedition from New York, to be a secondary sandstone, through which the granite on which it rests, occa- sionally appears ; chalcedony, cornelian, jas- per, opal, agate, sardonyx, zeolith, and ser- pentine (all silicious except the last two), with iron, lead, and copper, are found im- bedded in it. The sand hills W. of the Grand Marais, present to the lake, for 9 miles, a steep accli-'ity 300 feet high, com- posed of light yellow silicious sand, in 3 layers, 150, 80, and 70 feet thick; the last- mentioned uppermost, and like the lowest, pure, while the middle bed has many pebbles of granite, limestone, hornblende, and quartz. By the subsidence of the waters of Lakes Superior and Huron, occasioned, Mr. Lyell thinks, by the paitial destruction of their barriers at some unknown period, beds of sand, 150 feet thick, are exposed; below which arc seen beds of clay, enclosing shells belonging to fish of the very species which now inhabit the lakes. Dr. Bigsby, who minutely examined Lake Superior, observed, that a red sandstone for the most part horizontal, predominates on the S. shore, resting in places on granite. Amygdaloid occupies a very large tract in the N. stretching from Cape Verd to the Grand Portage, profusely intermingled with argillaceous and other porphyries, sienite, trappose-greenstone, sandstone, and con- glomerates. Trappose-grcenstone is the prevailing rock from Thunder Mountain westward, and givps rise to the pilastered precipices in the vicinity of Fort William. Part of the N. and E. shore is the scat of older formations, viz., sienite, stratified greenstone, more or less chloride, and al- ternating wih vast beds of granite, the general direc\iou E., with a perpendicular dip. Great quan ;itie8 of the older shell lime- stone are found strewn in rolled masses on the beach, from Point Marmoaze to Grand Portage ; its organic remains are trilobites, orthoceratites, encrinites, productse, madre- pores, terebratulse, &c. At Michipicoton Bay was found a loose mass of pitchatone porphyry, the opposite angle being trappose. Lake Huron. — The almost uniformly level shores of Lake Huron present few objects of interest to the geologist : secondary hme- stone, filled with the usual reliquire, con- stitutes the great mass of structure along the coast. Here and there are found de- tached blocks of grrnite, and other primitive rocks; the only simple minerals found by Mr. Schoolcraft were pieces of chalcedony in one place, and in another, crystals of staurolite. Around Saganaw Bay the prim- itive fonnation appears to approach nearer the surface; the secondary limestone then gives place to sandstone, which disinte- grates, and forms sand banks and beaches, as on the sea shore. With the exception of spots of sand op- posite the mouth of Spanish and other rivers, the shore N. of Lake Huron is composed of naked rocks ; but on the S.E., and at the naval station of Penetanguishine, there are several undulating alluvial plat- forms some hundred feet high, rounded into knolls, intersected by water-courses, and extending to the N.W shores of Lake Sinicoe, and, in fact, to Lakes Erie and Ontario. Mr. A. MuiTay, in his elaborate geological survey of the shores of Lake Huron, says, that the older groups he observed, consist, firstly, of a metamorphic series, composed of granitic and sienitic rocks, in the forms of gneiss, mica slate, and hornblende slate; and, secondly, of a stratified series, com- posed of quartz rock, or sandstones, or con- glomerates, shales, and limestones, with interposed beds of greenstone; and of the fossiliferous groups following these, six for- 94 GEOLOGY AROTWD LAKES ST. CLAIR, ERIE, AND ONTARIO. mations are met with, wliloli, in tho New York uomcncluturo, oom«i xuuUw tho follow- ing desiguation*!— 'I, I'otNilum (inti(lntone, 10 feet 5 2. Trenton limentona, 820 foot; 3. Utica fllatea, RO feet) 4. Lornine shales, 300 feet; 5. Meilinn (inndNtone, 108 feet; 6. Niagara limeitonuN; inuhulitift the Clinton group, 560 leow , total, 1,»73 feet. At Cabot's b t\- thick bedded coralline limestont ^" . tutst duop. ''I.e Niagara UmcNtuneH, fti they are tcmcl, e-.teud over a liH'^i juirt of tiio south- em portion of Dnimmond ulniid, and nearly the whole of Cockliurn I sliind— eastward through the Grand Mniintoitlin. They eap the clifls at Cabot's head, ftud can be traced thence to the sonth'^ardi The fossils met with peculiar to the Nirmivrft limestone are chiefly corals; some of tilt) fflost massive beds appear to be entirely composed of coral of the most elftborRto striieturej one fallen mass was obgerv«*d Itt Cabot's head, wb'ch appeared to be all coral, moosuring 10 yards square on tin* lurfaee, with an average thickness of 5 \\vt, Bivalve shells are met with abundniitlyi und univalves occasionally. Lakes Huron, Miphiprnit, and Superior, have evidently boon at ono time consider- ably higher than thoy ftvo at the present day, and it would appear (as has brvn pre- viously remarked) that tho stibsideuco of their waters has not boon oH'ooted by slow drainage, but by tha roiioati'd dcstrttction of their barriers: indeed, thoso throe hikes have evidently at sonu' remote period formed a single body of water, as is isviMoed by their comparatively low dividinyf ridge, by the existence, in Bati'howiiio Hay, of numerous rolled messes wbiob are in Mhi in the N.W. parts of Lake Huron, and, nmoiiK many other indications, by tlio very largo hoiiidcra of the Huggewong granite, and tho green- stone of Michipiooton, strewn in company with rocks of Lake Huron, over tho I'ortag'c of St. Mary's J tboir oi'iginid sitnaticni being at least 100 miles N. from whore they are placed at present, (iroat alluvial bods of fresh water shells are ftuuid in the E. of Lake Huron, whose appearnnoo argues them to be of post-diluvian fmntation, effected while tho waters wore still of immense height and extent, Luke St. Clair, — The ontraiioo of the Lake of St. Clair afl'ords tho (Irst indioation of the change in the goologioal formation, observed as we proceed tbrongb tlio liikos; nobbles of granite, hornblende rook, and silieioiis sand are seen on the edge of the water, washed out from below the alluvion of the banks. According to the editor of an able American Review, this is probably very near the limits where the materials of the primitive forma- tion show themselves beneath the secondary, nothing of them being seen on the American side of Lake Erie; but aroimd St. Clair, masses of granite, mica slate, and quartz, are found in BL^undance. Lake Erie. — The chasm, at Niagara Falls, affords a clear indication of the geology of tho country. The difllerent strata are — first, limestone — next, fragile slate — and lastly, sandstone. The uppermost and lowest of these comprse the great secondary forma- tion of a part of Canada, and nearly the whole of the Lnited States, occupying the entire basin of the Mississippi, and ex- tending from it between the lakes and the Alleghany ridge of mountains, as far east- ward as the Mohawk, between which the slate is often interposed, as at Niagara, and throughout the State of New York gener- ally. At Niagara, the stratum of sla>'.e is nearly 40 feet thick, and almost as fragile as shale, crumbling so much as to sink the superincumboiit limestone; and thus veri- fying to some extent, the opinion that a rctrocessioi: of the ftdls has been going on for ages. Lake Ontario. — Limestone, resting on granite. The rocks about Kingston are usually a limestone of very compact struc- ture, and light blueish-grey colour — a fracture often approaching the conchoidal, a slight degree of translucency on a thin edge; and after percussion, emitting the odour of flint, rather than that of bitumen. The lowermost limestones are in general more silicious than those above them ; and so frequently is this the case, that, in some places, a conglomerated character is given to the rock by the intrusion of pieces of quartz or homstone. It is worthy of re- mark, that both angular and rounded masses of felspar rock, which usually underlies limestone, (or, if absent, is supplied by a substratum in which hornblende predomi- nates) are imbedded and isolated in the limestone, demonstrating the latter to have been at one time in a state of fluidity. The limestone formation is stratified hori- zontally, its dip being greatest when nearest to the elder rock on which it reposes, and by which it would appear to have been up- raised, subsequently to the solidification of its strata; the thickness of which, like the 9. of it, 5 ta- ,lie ;he EX- the ist the and ler e 19 e as the veri- I t a on SOILS OF EASTERN AND WESTERN CANADA : THEIR RICHNESS. 95 lion- arest and up- |n 01 the depth of the soil, varies from a fow feet to a few inches. Shale occurH as amonf^Ht most hmestones; and, in some places so iiitiiiiatelv blended with the latter, as to cause it to fall to pieces on exposure to the atmoMiilicro. The minerals as yet noticed, in this forma- tion, are chert, or horustone, hasanito, chlorite, calcareous spar, bavytcs, sulphate of strontian, sulphuret of iron, and sulphuret of ziac. Pure granite iu seldom or never found. The Soils of Upper or Western Canada are various; that which predominat(!s, is com- posed of brown clay and loam, with (liflcreut proportions of marl intermixed; this com- pound soil prevails jprincipally in the fertile country between the St. Lawrcuco and Ottawa; towards the N. shore of Lake Ontario it is more clayey, and extremely productive. The Bubstrat>im throughout these districts is a bed of horissoiitul linic- stone, which in some places rises to tiic surface. The colour is of different shades of blue, interspersed with giains of white quartz. It is used for building, and is manufactured into excoUcut lime by an eiwy process of calcination; and f^roatly enriches and invigorates th soil wher sprinkled over it. The limesto of Niagara di tiers i'rom the foregoing i. . colour and quality, being grey, and not so easily calcined into lime. The Newcastle district lying between the upper section of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence, is a rich black mould; which also prevails throughout the East Hiding of York, and on the banks of the Ousc, or Grand River, and the Thames. At Toronto the soil is fertile, and its allu- vial nature is clearly demonstrated by the scarcity of stones for common use, which is also the case in some townships bordering Lakes Erie, St. Clair, and the Detroit, A light sandy soil predominates roinid the head of T^ake Ontario. The quantity of good soil in Canada, compared with the extent of the country, is equal to that of any pai't of the globe ; and here jet remains location for several miUiins of the human race. The best lands are those on which the hardest timber is found — such as oak, maple, beech, elm, black-walnut, &c,, though bass-wood when of luxuriant growth, and pine when large, clean, and tall, also indicate good land. Many of the cedar stvamps, where the cedars are not stunted, and mingled with nsli of a large giowth, contain a very rich soil, and are calculated to form the iiucst hoiup grounds in the world. So great is the fer- tility of the soil in Canada, that 50 bushels of wheat per acre are frequently produced on a farm, where the stumps of trees, which probably occupy an eighth of the t- 'face, nave not been eradicated — some inst, nces of 60 bushels per acre occur, and near York, in Upper Canada, 100 bushels of wheat were obtained from a sintfle acre I In some districts wheat has been raised successively on the same ground for 20 years without manure. The soil on the promontory where Quebec stands, is light and sandy in some parts, in others it is a mixture of loam and clay; beneath the soil a black, silicious slaty rock is everywhere met with, resting generally on a bed of granite. Above Richelieu Rapids, where the mountains commence retreating to the S. and N., the greater part of the soil of the l;»w lands is appar- ently of alluvial formation, consisting of a light and loose blackish earth, ten or twelve inches in depth, lying on a stratum of cold clay. The soil of Montreal island is generally alluvial, consisting in many places of light sand and loam, and in others of a stiff clay, on a horizontal stratum of Umestonc with animal remains: the substratum granite being intersected by black slaty rock, simi lar to that of Quebec. Along the Ottawa there is a great extent of alluvial soil, and many new districts of fertile land are constantly brought into view. Mineralogy. — Among the mountains to the W. of the St. Lawrence, have been ob- tained iron felspar, hornblende, native iron ore, granite (white, grey and red), and a kind of stone very common in Canada, called lime- stone granite, it being limestone that cal- cines to powder, yet when fractured resem- bles granite : marble is in abundance, and l)lumbago of the finest quality. The iron mines of St. Maurice have long been cele- brated, and the metal prepared with wood is considered equal if not superior to Swe- dish. Canada is rich in copper, lead, tin, cobalt, titanium, molybdenum, manganese, zinc ore, &c. Coj)per abounds in various parts of the country ; some large specimens have been | found m the angle between Lakes Superior and Michigan. At the Coppermine river . (Ontanagon 300 miles from the Sault de Ste. Marie); tliis mettd, in a pure and mal- leable state, lies in connexion with a body | 96 MINliRALOGY OP EASTERN AND WESTERN CANADA. of wirpcntiiict rock, whioh it almost com- pletely ovcrliiyNi it is also disseminattJ in niiiNitcii and grninii throughout the substance of the rock. Henry and otiiers speak of a rock of pure conjicr, from which the former cut o(f uii 1(K) lbs. wcinht. Mr. Schoolcraft exiiminc-d the remainder of the mass in 1H2(), uiul found it of irregular shape — in its KreHt(!«t hniifth 3 feet 8 inches, greatest breadth H feet 4 inches, making about 11 cubiu feet, and containing, of metallic mat- ter, about 2,I2(K) lbs. ; but there were many mark* of uhiscls and axes upon it, as if a great deal had been carried off. The sur- face of the block, unlike that of most metals which have beini long exposed to the atmos- phere, \H of metallic brilliancy. The beautiful spar, peculiar to Labrador, wheneo it derives its name, has long been celebrated ; some specimens are of an ultra- marine, or brilliant sky-blue colour, others of a greenish-yellow, of a red, and of a fine pearly grc^v tint. Marble of excellent quality and of difrereut hues, white, green, and va- riegated, is found in several parts of the country; and limestone, so useful to the agriculturist, almost everywhere abounds. According to the geological survey in IB 47-4W, it appears that the quantity of iron in the province is likely to prove very con- siderable. Considering the valuable deposits of this mineral already known in Marmora, Mado(!, Bedford, Hull, &c., and the deflec- tion of the magnet over regions of great ex- tent, it is not unreasonable to suppose that provincial btuls may exist of equal conse- qiutnce with thcwe of New York State. The d(!posit rypsiferous shale, so valu- able for its gypNum salt, hydraulic lime, occupies nearly all that neck of land which soparutes Lake Ontario from Lake Erie, skins the shore of the former lake through Niagara (jounty, passes by Cayuga, York, and I'liris, near Gait, on the Grand River, and turns northward towards Cabot's head on Ijuke Huron, The thickness of this deposit is estimated at 3tX) feet. About 34 miles below Cayuga, there is a hard solid bed of water lime, .30 feet thick. The gypsum, it appears, is deposited in de- tached nnisses, almost invariably assuming rooi'o or Urns of a conical shape. Adjacent to tlie gypsum, and indeed sometimes inter- mixed with it, arc vast quantities of water lime. The beds worked in York and Paris are extensive!, atui produce excellent gyp- sum. This part of Canada, it is asserted, extending from Gait to Cayuga, cannot fail to become, in time, from the mineral con- tents of the subsoil, one of the most valu- able parts of the province. An interesting discovery has been made of the existence of lithographic stone at Rama, on Lake Simcoe. It is of the best quality, and the supply is very large, which is the more satisfactory, inasmuch as this stone is only to be found in one other place in the world — Solenhofen on the Danube — and has hitherto commanded a monopoly price. I have already adverted to the native cop- per found on the banks of Lake Superior, on the Coppermine river ; iron is abundant in various parts of Western Canada, particu- larly at Charlotteville, about eight miles from Lake Eric; it is of that description which is denominated shot ore, a medium between what is called mountain and bog ore; the metal made is of a superior quality. The Marmora Iron works, about 32 miles north of the Bay of Quints, on the river Trent, which are situated on an extensive white rocky flat, bare of stones, and were apparently in former times the bottom of a river ; exhibit like many other parts of Ca- nada, different ridges and water courses ; the iron ore is extraordinarily rich, some speci- mens yielding 93 per cent.; it is found on the surface, requiring only to be raised — the requisite smelting materials of limestone and pine fiiel abound in the vicinity. Magnetic oxyde, red oxyde, mountain, or lake ore, and other varieties are met with at this place. Black lead is found also at Marmora, on the shores of the Gannanoqui lake, and in the eastern division of Western Canada, where it is said some silver mines are known to the Indians; small specimens of a metal like silver have been found at Marmora, and titanium at Lake Superior. Mr. Murray is of opinion that the N. shore of Lake Iliiron is a region of great mineral importance. Although the whole district is covered by a dense forest, still in its original wild condition several copper! lodes have been discovered — some of decided : value, others of considerable promise. The ! " Bruce mines," now being worked, on the main shore between Freiieh and Palladeau islands, 10 miles west of Thessalon Foint, are very valuable. Two mineral springs flow at Scarborough, 15 miles E. of Toronto. Above the Niagara Falls is a phenomenon, termed the Burning Spring, the water of which is in a constant state of ebullition, black, warm, and emit-j or mens I at I or. N.| great ihole ill in 1 jpper ■ :ided \ The' the! ideau Point, \ pugh, agara rning Istant I (emit- 1 PURITY OF THE LAKE AND RIVER WATERS. 97 ting a portion of sulphuretted hycLo!;cn gas sufficient to light a mill, which stood at the place, the gas yielding, when concen- trated in a tube, a light and beautiful flame; in winter the water loses its burning pro- perties. At the heud of Lake Ontario there are several fountains, strongly impregnated with sulphur; the latter is found in substance collected into solid lumps of brimstone. The Indians speak of volcanoes in several parts of the province, particularly towards the Chippewa hunting-grounds. Salt licks (springs) are numerous; one nt Salt Fleet yielded a barrel of salt a day. Near the Mora\'ian villages, on the river Thames, there arc springs of petrcolura, and a bituminous substance appears on several of the waters in the north-west country : on the above named river there is a quarry of soft free stone, of a dark colour, which the Indians hew out with their axes : it will not endure the heat of fire, but is uscfid for building. Near the Gannanoqui Lake is found a soft-soap stone, with a smooth oily surface. Gypsum is obtained in large quan- tities and of excellent quality on the Grand, or Ouse river. Potter's and pipe clay are frequent, and yellow ochre is occasionally met with. Mr. Derottermund, chemist to the gov- ernment geological survey of Canada, says that the Waters of the St. Lawrence which flow past, Montreal, are of two kinds, the one coasting along the left side of the river appertains to the Ottawa, and is of a brown colour, the other, flowing opposite to the city, comes from the great lakes and is of a fine blue colour. These waters run together for several leagues without intermingling, as may be observed in the Lake of Geneva, where the Rh6nc preserves in its passage through the lake its peculiar blue colour. The waters of both the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa, are very pure, differing from distilled water only by -002 or -003. The dift'erent specific gravity of the two waters may possibly be the cause of their not in- termingHng; both contain chlorides, sul- phates, and carbonates, with bases of limn and of magnesia, but the St. Lawrence water holds in solution carbonate of lime, and is not therefore so well adapted for c') o«n 107 0017 oao 1-5% 2-877 There is a great diflference observable in the transparence and purity of the waters of the great lakes. Those of the Ontario, Erie, and the southern parts of MicMgan, are like other lake waters ; but Huron, and the nor- thern part of Lake Michigan, and it is said also Superior, contain waters of a degree of purity and clearness such as is seldom to be found elsewhere. The Huron waters are so transparent that the rays of the sun are said to pass through them as through the cloud- less atmosphere, without meeting with any solid matter in suspense to obstruct or draw off thcix caloric. Hence the water on the surface, and that drawn from a depth of 200 fathoms, has been found of precisely the same temperature, viz. 56°. Whether the water in the lowest depths of lakes Superior and Ontario be salt or fresh, we cannot ascertain; for the greater density of the former may keep it always below, or there may be a communication with the ocean. Climate. — The temperature of the nume- rous regions of this vast country necessarily vary, according to their distance from the equator, and the contiguity of moimtains and forests; but generally speaking the clear blue sky, the absence of fogs, and the con- sequent peculiar elasticity of animal fibre, indicate the salubrity of British North America. In Eastern Canada, the greater severity of the winter, is owing piu'tly to its latitudinal position, and partly to the north eastern range of lofty mountains. In the more northern part of the province, the snow commences in November, but seldom lies many days on the ground be- fore December, when the whole country is covered by it for several feet deep, nor docs it entirely disappear until the beginning of May. The frost during this period is gene- rally intense, with N.W. winds and clear atmosphere, during the greater part of the winter ; but on a change of wind ^ > * he ■til ■rn ■tj CLIMATE OF CANADA— WINTER. ' Routhward uiul eastward, the wcatlicr bc- conus ovfrra8t, tlie atmosphere damp, with occasional dense fogs, and falls of snow, ac- conii)anicd hy a considerable rise in the thermometer, which usually ranges, during the months qf December, January, February, and March, from 32° to 25° below zero, Fah. In 1790, mercury froze at Quebec. The temperature is often G0° Fah. below the freezing point — 20° is the average. The ex- treme cold may be imagined by the ctt'ect of the following experiment ; bomb-shells were nearly filled with water, an iron plug was then driven into the fuse-hole by a sledge- hammer; when the water froze, the j)lug was forced out with a loud report, and wa.s thrown with great velocity to a consider- able distance; a plug 2i oz. weight was thrown 415 yards, the elevation of the fuse axis being an angle of 45. When a ])lug with notched springs, permitting its expan- sion within the shell, was used, the shell nevertheless burst. Rocks, particularly those of the calcareous, schistous, and sand-stone order, are often rent as if with gunpowder, by the expansive force of intense frost. During the cold frosty nights, the woods creak as if 10,000 Imcherons were at work among them. As winter advances, one snow storm suc- ceeds another till the face of the whole country is changed, every particle of ground is covered, the trees alone remaining visible, and the mighty river St. Lawrence is ar- rested in its course. The feathered tribes take flight, even the hardy crow retreats, and few quadrupeds arc to be seen : some, like the bear, remaining in a torpid state, and others, like the hare, change their colour to pure white. Instead of the pleasing variety which a Canadian summer presents, enabling the traveller to trace the course of noble rivers — to contemplate the fall of mighty catar- acts or the busy hum of commerce in the passing vessels on the moving waters — the fine tints of the forests, and the auburn tinge of the ripening com — the whistle of the plough-boy, and the lowing of the tended kine — nothing is now to be seen but one unvaried surface; no rivers, no ships, no animals — all one uniform, unbroken plain of snow, the average depth of which, unless where snow-storms or drifts have accumu- lated, is about 30 inches. From Quebec to Alontreal, the St. Law- rence ceases to be navigable, and serves as a road for sleighs and cari'iole.s. The carriole varies in shaoe according to the fancy of the owner; sometimes like tliat of a phaeton, gig, chariot, or family coach: the body is placed on what are called runners, which resemble in form the irons of a pair of skates, rising up in front in the same manner, and answeritig somewhat the same purpose. The high rtmntra are about eighteen inches long; the carriole is generally elevated about twelve inches above the snow, over which when level it glides with great eauc, without sinking deep: but when cnhota (from cahoter, io jolt, a word denoting narrow ridges with deej) furrows), are formed in the snow, the motion is like rowing in a boat against a head sea, producing a sensation in one unac- customed to it, something like sea-sickness. Tiie carriole is often mounted with silver, and ornamented with expensive furs. Tlie Iraini'dux, burline, cutter, and sleigh, are all varieties of the carriole. The dress of the Canadian now undergoes a eomi)lete change; the hat and bonnet- rouge are thrown aside, and fur caps, fur cloaks, fur gloves, are put in requisition, with worsted hose over as well as under the boots; those who take exercise on foot, use snow shoes, or mocassins, which are made of a kind of network, fixed on a frame, and shaped like a boy's paper kite, about 2 feet long, and 18 inches broad; these cover so much of the surface that even when the snow is softest the wearer sinks in it but a very few inches. While the severity of the season is thus guarded against by the Canadians when out of doors, their habitations are also secured against the destructive power of intense cold. The walls of the houses are usually plastered on the outside, to preserve the stones from moisture, which during extreme frost, renders them liable to split; and the apartments are heated with stoves, which keep the temperature at a higher and more uniform rate than is done by our English fire-places. And here it may be observed, that the result of intense cold (such as is felt in Canada is, if not guarded against, similar to that of intense heat; with this difterence, that it is easier to guard against the eft'ccts of the one in North America than of tin other in India. A cold iron during a Cana- dian winter, when tightly grasped, blisterf and burns nearly in the same manner ar a hot iron. The princi])le in both instancer is alike — in tlie former, the rapidity witl which the caloric or vital heat of the bod} passes from the hand into the cold iron. EFFFICTS OF INTENSE COLD IN CANADA. 09 rlcstroys the continuous and or^ranic struc- ture of tlio part; in the lattc;', tlie caloric passes so rajtidly from the iiot iron into tlic hand, as to produce the same ett'ect: heat, in both cases, hcinj;; the cause; its passinf^ 'nto the body /rom the iron, or into the iron from the body, being cciually injurious. For a similar reason the incautious traveller, in Canada, is httnit in the lace by a very cold wind, and experiences the same sensa- tion as if exposed to the l)last of an eastern nirocco. Milton well describes the effects )f e.xtreme cold in the following lines: — ' Beyond tliis flood, o frozen continent Lies, dark and wild, beat with per]KMunl storms Of whirlwind and dire hail, which, on firm land Thaws not, but pathers heap, and ruin seems Of ancient pile : all else deep snow and ice; A pulf profound as that Serboninn bog Betwixt Damiata and Mount Casius old, Where armies whole have sunk : the parcliinff air BurnK /rare, (frozen) am! cold iierforma fh« effect ofjire." I'AUADlM-: Lost, Book'ii. We also find in Virgil Georg. I. 93 — Bon 86 penctrabile frigus adurat. Dogs become mad at Quebec in Decem- ber and January when the cold is greatest; extreme cold and extreme heat tending equally to the propagation of hydrophobia. The term frost-hitti-n denotes the effect produced by cf)ld, accompanied by a sharp Biting wind. In such weather jicrsons are liable to have the nose, toes, fingers, cars, or those parts where the circulation of the blood is scanty and slow, frost-bitten, without being made aware of the change by tlieir own sensations; and it not unfrequently hap- pens that they are first informed of their mis- fortune by a passing stranger, who observes the nose, for instance, becoming q\iite white, while the rest of the face is very red. In such a predicament, it is at first startling to see an utter stranger running up to you j with a handful of snow, calling out "your j nose, sir: your nose is frost-bitten;" and without further ceremony, rubbing without j mercy at your proboscis. If snow be well rubbed in in due time, there is a chance of saving the most prominent feature of the face: if not, or if heat be applied, not only is the skin destroyed, but the nose, and a great part of the adjacent surface, arc irre- coverably lost. The inevitable result of the long-con- tinued action of snow or cold on the animal frame is duuth, and that of the most pleasing kind; — at first a pleasing sensation of languor is felt, to this succeeds an oppres- sive drowsiness which, if indulged in, is surely futal ; the sufferer ])assing, impassible and unconscious, from the slumber of life into the cold sleep of death; the couite- nance remaining as calm and placid as if the pulse of existence still vibrated through the fiumc, while voluntary muscular power was suspended, under the temporary oblivion of sound repose. The i)leasurabl(! moments which intervene Ix^twcen the states of con- sciousness and unconsciousness on approach- ing slec]), and the indistinct visions and in- describ;il)le emotions then experienced afford us some idea of the mode in which, the sopo- rific influence of frost softens the iron grasp of the grim tyrant. It must not, however, be supposed that the severity of the winter is an obstacle to all out-door amusements, though it stops the navigation of the rivers and the cultivation of the soil; on the con- trary, winter in Canada is the season of joy and pleasure : the cares of bu.sincss are laid aside, and all classes and ranks indulge in a general carnival, as some amends for the toil undergone during the summer months. The sleigh or carriole of the proud seigneur, or humble habitan, is got ready all over the country— riding abroad on business or plea- sure — visiting between friends, neighbours, i.nd relatives commences — city and town balls, pic-uie country parties, where each guest brings his dish, are quite the rage; and, after dining, dancing, 8U])ping, and dancing again, the wintiT morning dawn is ushered in, while the festive glee is yet at its height, and a violent snow-storm often blockades the picnickei-s, until broad day- light enables them to proceed in their car- rioles towards home — over the ice-bound rivers and waves of snow, the inconveniences of the moment being viewed as a zest to the more staid and fashionable routs of Quebec or Montreal. Travelling over frozen rivers or lakes is, however, not unattended with real danger; the sleigh, its horses and passengers, having been not unfrequently instantly cngul|ilie(l, and sucked beneath the ice; there being no warning of the danger until the horses arc submerged, dragging the carriole and its inmates after theui. Fortunately, the weak or thin places are in general of no great ex- tent; and when the liorses are found to be sinking, the passengers instantly leap out on the strong ice, seize the ropes, which, with a running noose, are placed ready for such an emergency on every sleigh horse's neck, and, by sheer pulling, the animal is partially strangled in order to save his life ; for if the If M m 100 PANOEUS OP WINTER TRAVELLINO IN CANADA. horse be iillowed to kick nnd NtrHjfgle, it only Hrrven to injuro iiiul »iiik liini ; ns mnm, however, uh the noose is dniwii ti^lit, his hrruthiiig is momentarily cheeked, "itrnn- ^ulation takes place, the animal becomes motionless, rises to the surfaee, floats f))i one side, and it then drawn out on the strong ice, when, the noose beinj; liK)sencd, respini- tion reeonnnenees, and the licn'se is on his feet earriolinji away a^ain in a few minntes ns briskly as ever. This sinpdar operation has been known to be pertbrmed two or three times a day on the same horse. The traveller on the frozen rivers, bnt more espe- cially on the frozen lakes, also incurs (jreat danger from the larfje rifts or openings which run from one side of the lake to the other, from one to six feet broad, eatising, at some distance! from the eraek, a shelviiifj np of the ice to the height of several feet, in proportion to the breadth of the fissnrc. The sleigh drivers, when they see no other mode of passing, or of eseajjc, make the the horses endeav(mr to leap the chink at full gallop, with the sh^gh behind them, at the imminent risk of being engulphed in the lake. A snow-storm is another source of danger to the Anieriean traveller; and indeed a snow-storm on land is as terrific as a hurri- cane at sea, while this peetdiar disadvantage attends the traveller on tenut Jirnia, that he has no land-marks, to supply the j)laee of the mariner's compass, and guide him in his trackless path; the excited intellect becomes rapidly bewildered, memory fails, and a road often travelled, and in calmer moments well known, is utterly lost in the remembrance of the unfortunate traveller. The heavily- falling snow is accompanied by a violent gale of wind, which drifts the lighter j)arti- cles along with great velocity, forming in its progress innumerable eddies according to the inequalities of the surface, and raising as it were light clouds from the earth, which ob- scure and confuse every thing. This drift, which the Canadians call La Poudre, consists of minute but intensely frozen particles of snow, which, whirled by the imi)etiiosity of the hurricane, force their way through the smallest window or door chink, leaving large heaps of snow on the floor in a few hours, as we sometimes experience on a much smaller scale in England. The horses in the sleighs or carrioles have small bells hung on the harness, the sound of which is cheering to the animal as well as to his master : in a frosty night, sound is rapidly and extensively conveyed to an anxious ami listening car, and t)ie tinkle of the distant sleigh bell may well be thought nnisical. Below Quebec the St. Lawrence is not frozen over, hut the navigation is impedi d by the large masses of ice which are floated down the river from the U])per districts, and kept in motion by the combined action of the eiuTcnt at the naiTows opposite Quebec, and the diurnal influence of the ocean tides. Crossing the river at these times, though a dangerous enterprise, is one constantly undertaken. The period chosen is high water, when the large masses of ice are al- most statioiuiry; the canoe is then launched, the people being provided with ropes, boat- hooks and paddles ; a sheet of ice being reached the passengers jump on it, drawinf> the canoe after them, until they come to another openinu, when they again launch their fragile conveyance, which is pushed towards another sheet of ice, and so on, the greatest dexterity being necessary to avoid being crushed to pieces, canoe and all, be- tween huge masses of ice. At distant intervals, abnut once in ten years, the St. Lawrence is com|)let('ly frozen across at Quebec, when a grand rejoicing or jubilee takes place; booths are erected; sleigh-racing, skating, driving, &(\, arc per- formed on a smooth sheet of ice, which for eight miles api)cais like a mirror, and the jxjii! (us it is tcrnu'd) enables the country people fnnn the opposite side to liring their provisions, &e., to market in carrioles with- out the ditliculty and danger of crossing the half-frozen river in their slight eanocs. As soon as the winter sets in, the farmer is obliged to house all his cattle, sheep, and poultry ; those destined for winter use are killed before they lose any of the fat accpiired during the summer and autumn. No salt is neeessiiry to preserve them ; they are ex- posed to the I'rost for a short time, when they become as hard as ice, and in this state, after being packed in casks or boxes with snow, are prcser\Td from the extenud air. At the end of four or five months they are perfectly good, and are thawed when required for use with cold water — warm water would render the provisions quite useless. Fish is also preserved in a similar manner, and, it is stated, may be restored to life four or five days after, if immediately frozen when taken out of the water. During the month of April, the influence of the sun on the ice and snow begins to be jiuciicc , to be WINTER CLOSING OF TIIR ST. LAWRRNCK UWKU. 101 felt ; ill tho middln of April spring com- iiKMiccH at Montreal ; and tlirro weeks aflnr, the unow hiiJi all disappeared in the neij^h- boiirhdod of Quebec ; and the iee which lind hecn aceuinidating in the great lakes and rivcra connected with the St. Lawrence, rushes down in vast mosses towards the ocean, which again da.shes it inland with the impetuosity of the gulf tides, presenting an extraordinary scene : sometimes the St. Law- rence is choked up from bank to l)ank with masses of ice from l to 5(M) yards in (li;i- mcter; the sca-tidc and land-current forces these on one another, and break them into small pieces, forming fantastic groups of figures, high above the surface of the river. The navigation of tho river is not said to be completely open until the second week in May, wlien the ice-masses have all disap- peared ; vessels attempting to get out of, or to enter the St. Lawrence wliilc the ice is forming or disappearing, arc frequently lost, by being embayed, and crushed to pieces during a severe storm, when the running rigging, and even the rudder become im- moveable. It is worthy of notice, that so large a river as the St. Lawrence, in lat. 17° N., should be shut up with ice as early, ami remain as long closed (5 months) as the comparatively small river Neva, in lat. 60° N. A singular meteorological phenomenon occurs in the midst of a Canadian winter, when the mercury is far below the freezing point ; suddenly, in the course of a sin;:!'' day, (in January generally), it ascends 2° or 3° above the point of congelation, the weather instantly changing from the greatest degree of cold to a complete thaw. The streets are inundated \nt\i the melted snow, the roads bcc( "" soft, and earrioling on the river dan- gerou.; the thaw sometimes lasts for 10 days, when intense frost again commences, producing a beautiful effect on the trees, by an incrustation of ice, which extends from the trunk to the smallest branch. The severest winters arc generally accom- panied by N.E. winds, which convey f"oiu Labrador and the icy Pole increase ot' snow and frost ; but the prevailing winds through- out the year are westerly; in the winter, cold, sharp, and dry airs blow from the N. and N.W., and in the summer genial breezes come from the W. and S.W. The E. wnd blows for a few days in each month, and in the spring, during April and !May, for a longer period. The aurora borcalis, or northern lights, are extremely brilliant, and a.ssume various forms — at one time like gor- goons flouting standards, at another an vast ereseents, ehanging into magnificent eolumns or pillars of resplendent light, wbieh move in majestic grnndeur from tlu^ horizon to- wards the zenith, until t!»e whole firmament becouK's splendidly irradiated — these sud- denly vanishing, ami as suddenly reappear- ing under new forms and colours, and with varied brilliancy, until they entirely disaj)- pear. It, is said by some, that a rustling like that of silk is heard during a fine aurora. Summer commences ab(rit the middle of May, and is usually ushered in by moderate rains a d a rapid rise i»i the meridian heat, thougl. the nights are "till cool; but in June, July, and August, the heat becomes great, and for a few days o| nressive, the thermo- meter ranging from 80"^ to 95° in the sbade; but the , eragc he during he summer seldom exceeds 75°. A good idea of the sprinf 'f \c year may be formed from the follow if Agricultural Report for Eastern '^nnada in April and ? '. ■ ?, I)y Mr. W. Evans .. •: te St. Paul :— "Luiiy in April well-prep red : nls are in good order to receive the seed, and about the lOtb or 1 2th wheat sowing very generally commences. The pastures should now be good, and will soon improve the condition of the cjittle. Dairy produce abundant in the market, aiul the prices moderate. Notwithstanding the shortness of the s, asons that farmers have here to work in the fields, Canada is by no means unfavourable for farming, and in ordi- nary seasons, with the seed got in early, on soils well prepared, a good crop of all kinds of grain, wheat particularly, may generally be obtained. With command of labour, which continued emigration will give, the farmer ]\n; :'".h' to employ double the number ot ho-!' t' -the working season, wliilc the days are i(.:.g and fine, that he would have re- quired in England for the whole year, and he may get all his work done, pcrlia])s at not ,'. greater expense, and the labourer will have his summer's earnings to take to the woods (if he has a family), to commence farming on his own account, which should be the ultimate aim of all the labouring class of emigrants if they expect to secure future independence for themselves and their fami- lies. At this period the country is charm- ing; after a long and gloomy winter, tho earth is again renovated — new life restored to plants — the trees dressed iu leaves and blossoms — the fields in beautiful green, and all nature appears to rejoice." I 102 CHANGING OP THE CANADIAN CLIMATE. That the climate of Canada has under- gone a change is shown by the mean height of the thermometer at 8 a.m., for the month of July in the following years :— 1799, 66.87; 1802, 68.35; 1806, 65.96; 1809, 60.60; 1812, 62.16; 1814, 60.45; 1816, 58.65; 1818, 64.00. Since 1818 the change is stated to be considerable, partly owing to the motion of the magnetic poles, and the forest-clearing necessary for the cultivation of the country; the cft'ect is mainly obser- vable in the lengthened duration of sum- mer, and consequent shortening of winter. A wide discrepancy marks the temperature of corresponding latitudes in Europe and America; the inhabited parts of the two Canadas lie between 42° and 48° of N. lat., and should therefore enjoy the temperature of central and southern Europe, if influenced misrely by their distance from the equator and pole; but it is far otherwise ; yet when we remember that the Tiber was formerly frozen annually — that snow was usual at Rome — that the Euxine sea, the Rhone and Rhine were almost every year covered with a strong sheet of ice, we may look forward to modifications of the climate of Canada. Among the meteoric phenomena observed in Canada, I may liere record that singular one, termed the "dark days," which occurred in October, 1785, and in July, 1814. These appearances (as described in the transnctions of the Quebec Literary and Horticultural Society), consisted of a dismal pitchy dark- ness at noon-day, continuing about ten minutes at a time, and frequently repeated at twelve, two, three, and four o'clock, the intervals being partially relieved by vast masses of clouds streaked with yellow, driv- ing athwart the darkened sky, accompanied by sudden gusts of wind with much thunder, lightning, and rain, the latter extremely black, and in 1814, mixed with ashes and black powder. On the last occasion, when the sun could be seen, it appeared of a bright red colour. The Indiiins jceount for this phenomenon by ascribing it to a vol- cano in Labrador; and Mr. fiagnon has placed on record that he witnessed at St. Paul's Bay, in the Saguenay country, in 1791, the flames of a vast volcano, during the month of December, accompanied by violent shocks : flames mixed with dark smoke were thrown to a {^reat height, caus- ing the whole atmosphere to apjicar one mass of fire, — which was in strange contrast with tiic surrounding snow. During the summer mr . ths there is a great deal of electric fluid in the atmosphere, and the /ividness of the lightning and loud- ness of the thunder are sometimes appalling in the extreme. As a general rule, it may be obser\'ed that the prevailing winds (viz. N.E., N.W., and S.W.) have considerable influence on the temperature of the atmos- phere and state of the weather. The S.W. (the most prevalent) is generally moderate, and accompanied by clear skies; the N.E. and E. bring continued rain in summer, and snow in winter ; the N.W. is dry, cold, and elastic, owing to the ice-bound region from which it springs. Winds from due N., S., or W., are not frequent, and the direction of the tide, which is felt for nearly 60 miles above Quebec, often causes a change in the atmospheric current. As Canada becomes cleared, and its swamps drained, its climate will probably becomer milder, and its inhabitants enjoy as salubrious an atmosphere as we do in Eng- land; the heat of summer is now less relax- ing, and the cold of winter more bracing than those of New York, or indeed any part of the United States. As regards agriculture, the lengthened winter of Lower Canada is certainly not on the whole unfavourable. The effect of snow covering the earth for a long period, is well known to be beneficial, and the fall of deep snow in a country where frost prevails from 5 to 6 months, is one instance among many, of the merciful dis- pensations of Providence ; had it been other- wise, the continued action of cold on the earth would have so greatly deprived it of its natural caloric, that the heat of even the hottest summer would be insufficient to restore the warmth necessary to the germi- nation of plants, and the ascension of the sap in vegetables. The natural heat of the earth is about 42° Fah., but water, when cooled down to 32° Fah., is converted into snow and ice ; by this means, the rivers and the land, with their myriads of fish and in- sects, are protected by a dense crust of ice, which, being a non-conductor, preserves them from the influence of the imnicnse volume of cold atmosphere, which is continually pressing from the polar regions towards the ecjuator. Thus, that very coating of snow, which seems so chilling, is in fact a warm garment for the earth ; and when the sun returns to gladden it, and the north winds are driven back to their icy region, the latent caloric of the earth begins to be developed, year . 738 25-72 48-37 6S-25 U-75 42-1 For the months June, July, & August . . 96r>6 67-33 77-37 99-33 58-33 77-54 Winter months 46-33 -407 2249 38-66 -24-33 11-25 WEA.THEB. W. CANADA. E. CANADA. Months. Clear. Rain or Snow. Cloudy. Clear. Rain or Snow. Cloudy. day<. 13 days. davs. days. dav3. days. January . 8 9 23 4 4 Febniary , U 10 7 21 3 5 M".rch . . 21 8 2 2a 3 3 April . . 23 3 4 21 3 3 May . . . 22 4 23 4 4 June . . . 22 8 26 2 2 July . . . 2.) 3 3 2(! 3 2 August . . 21 fl 5 16 12 2 September . 21 5 4 18 8 5 October . . 13 8 9 16 5 8 November . U 14 7 14 7 10 December . 11 12 8 23 2 6 Total . 214 89 62 256 66 53 Note. — There were, during the year, in Western Ca- nada, 34 days snow and 5a rain ; and in Eastern Canada, 21 snow and 3S rain. The climate of Toronto, Western Canada, may be judged of from the following facts — the result of a series of observations made for several years on the shore of Lake Ontario, in 43° 39' N. 79° 36' W. The writer describes the climate on the shores of Lake Ontario as being in many respects genial. The temperature, proceeding westward, is sensibly much milder, and this efl'ect is still further increased by the presence of so vast a body of water, mitigating both the heats of summer and the cold of winter. Even a very short distance inland the dift'crencc in both respects is plainlj' perceptible to the most superficial obscn'cr. Q^hc early frosts which occasionally do so much damage, are here comparatively harmless. What is a storm of rain on the shore of the lake is frequently snow but a few miles further r i? ■ 104 DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE OF WESTERN CANADA. back from it. The snow likewse disappears much sooner in tlic spring, and the average depth is considerably less. In short, it may fairly be said, that to an emigrant from the British Isles to Western Canada, the change is no less surprising than agreeable. There is a clearness, a dryness, a brilliancy in the atmosphere truly delightful after the raw drizzling rains, the fogs and moisture of Europe, while the extremes of temperature are never of long duration, tempered by the fresh gales sweeping the surface of the mag- nificent Ontario. And if it be admitted that the weather of spring is occasionally variable and impleasant, this is more than compensated for by the brightness and beauty of the summer and autumn, often extending far into November. There is no doubt but that spring commences at least a month or sir weeks earlier than in Quebec and Montreal ; that the extremes, and like- wise the sudden variations of temperature, are of far less intensity. Winters in Upper Canada sometimes occur with scarcely any snow at all, and i liaps there is no part of the globe where tiic range of the ther- mometer is greater than in Canada. In the instance given above, the fall in the course of 36 hours was 59 degrees. In winter, changes of a still greater extent, in the course of a day, are not unfrequcnt. It has been known at Quebec to be from 36° to 10°, with rain during the day, and to fall during the succeeding night many degrees below zero." These variations are no doubt less severe as we proceed westward, but still sufficiently rigorous, and certainly constitute the most disagreeable part of the climate. A change of 30 degrees in 24 hours, or less, is very common ; and the variation has amounted to 43 degrees. The greatest re- corded is that of December, 1834. On the noon of the 13th, the weather was fair, with a fresh southerly breeze. In the evening the wind went to N.W., and at 8 a.m. od the 14th, the mercuiy was at zero, it having been 43 degrees on the previous noon. The most evident changes occur generally in the early months of winter, and they become less as the summer advances. The annual range of the thermometer wa? in the years — 1831 , 18;i2 , 1833 , 1834 , 1835 , 1836, 1837 . Ifi to 84 20 10 2 15 20 9 84 86 90 84 85 82 Knnge 100° 104 96 92 99 105 91 1838, 1840, 1841 . 1842, 1843 , 1844 , 1845, Rang 4 to 89 03 11 2 5 6 8 2 " 84 " 92 " 87 " 92 " 85 " 94 95 92 82 08 03 06 Hence, mean annual range, between the hours of 8 A.M., and 12 ^ 95°. Moan Mean Mean Mcnn Monthly Daily Monthly Daily Ilangc. Kango. Bangc. Range. Janunry . . . 51 . . . 29 July 31 ... 21 Fibi-imry .. 50 ... 31 Atigust .. SO ... 20 March 47 ... 27 September 89 . . . 24 April 45 ... 26 October .. 38 ... 23 May 40 . . . 23 November 41 . . , 22 June 31 ... 21 December. 41 ... 27 The above rvbibits the mean variation monthly and dail • The month of February is the coldest in the year, July the hottest; the former likewise subject to the greatest extremes. Mean of October approximates nearly to the annual mean. Taking the number of days in the several years up to the freezing-point, we have as follows : — 1831 . . 113 1830 . . 140 1842 . . . 08 1832 . . 112 1837 . . 124 1843 . . . 126 1833 . . 115 1840 . . 101 1844 . . 102 1834 . . 110 1841 . . 104 1845 . . . 105 1836 . . 100 The mean of which is 112, being the average number of days of frost at 8 a.m. during the year. The mean annual temperature of the central parts of England, from October to M'lirh, is usually 42°. In December, Jan- uary, and February, it is generally below 40°. In July and August the range is from 62° to 65°. The mean ai\nual temperature, noon and night, of the central part of Eng- land is about 60°. Months. January . February March April May June July August . September October , November December in 1834 1835, for il mo-^'ths 1836, for 12 months 1"J7 „ 18« " 1842 1843 " 1844 ;; " 184S " No. of days of Bain. Depth. Inches. anl\?/^°'i£ lakes which run in towards the m£nST^°"' ^""^^ Simcoe frozen more th™„ an inet r *i "^ ^^W^™ Christmas, and aJe tW ,?''^ "°*^ a^o"* April. '^^ ^''awed again before allJtr at^ St^r'l'S'M^ "°* ^-- to 18 inches and f^l P*" ^'^an from 12 greater thtUs^tVE?^ T"^^^^^ feet, unless when driftni^ t. • "'''''''« to ^ that the roads arrnei ^* ?/^i7 seldom »«e of the sleiZ ^r "^''^f y,''* f«' the second week in £ '"^''''^' ''^fore the J-ken urbAfeSaf^,F r^'^ tllTaS^Jta^f^r^^^^^^^^ ziif.^jiro?X'o;,.^:,:^-' Eastern cTnSratThp"^ ^°''"- "^^'•^- ' '°ffie?erf'^\^^^^^^^^^^^^^ in the Ktr^ft:™'^?'^ fr-na unaccor.ntcd for-one of7l,„ °^^' ^'^'^^^^ Th. " "- • • • ^6-S6 1 The Indian S^me^^^vV ^'^^^~ 99^- T^° '^'^"^al depth of the nh ■ r°™^y commencer^^' T ''''? ^^'^'''* »ni- t^sh Isles, for it is stated bv^ » ^ ''"•««on AusHn^tr. I ^ ^°'^ ^°'"' ^th meteorologist, that it hi been folTV"'°T^»P'^>-atureTs excecdi^^^^^ the a long series of observations to r?' ^'^"^ K^athered tribes £ f^.^'^*-"^' ^'J the other day in the latitude of Lr.n/ ^^^1"^ N^'^'hern reS or. V°'*'''''*'^^^7 ^^ek a rainy season, moreover^inCana/wuT ^\« ^gorous Ser of V ' "P^^^^ °f the rmn fa^s sometimes more orTsfd*^°'!!M«<^l^e^ north, avail them- winter) may be considered a, /«"!i*''^tJ^eir journey X^i-'^?°'^ ^ prosecute the period between the Sdle,?An°f ^T^^^ riversZj'lalt oTw ^t' "* *^« time! to suppose that the great lake, n^ • •^7°'" ™d of the f/S I T '"""'^'^^ at the are frozen over at a^ le the^ aS' '^' ^'■' "^'d weathe uccj?'. ^/^ T^^^' ^'^y^ «' open m the centre, fveauenthrl ff.f^^ays verity of the vZtl-' "' ^'^^ "^^treme se- tt iSmtt If^^^^^^^'^r^'^^ ''^^^ a^r^r ^^^^ "^ "- waterbdngTarmeTthan t"^^ ^•^"°° «^' tf" sea^rd^L'^'fP^ *° *'- d-tance from the atmosnI,.i 1""5*''^?^ the circumambient the arl!^ "'''™^« of saline particL in n resembling «f„„^ "^. atmosphero, the nlimnt. .„ 5. , ^^* '" water being warmeTthnn .7 '•""""^ «^' the atmospberf,anevrnorafr ^"'c^'mambient may be obsmed TsceSn ''^^''"''^linff steam of ^hape, in clouds? ^ '" '^''''3' ^arietv from fhe JtZt%:^r^\2iTf''' vot. I. "' JjaKes Ontario, the atmosphen tl.rp, T^"' P''''"^^^^ « i metals rust but s£lSvT " '° ^' *J»«t on board vcssH, nf-% ^ ^""Vosvue, even iron bolts Ire u td ?n1r ''f S^^" ^'^'^ of copper. ''' 'h'P ''"hiding, instead ' k 106 POPULATION, INDIAN AND EUROPEAN, OF E. & W. CANADA. The people think, and the observation of meteorologists appears to justify the popular opinion, that when the lake-waters rise to a great height, the season is unhealthy. In 1815, the waters of Lake Ontario, which had been annually rising, attained a greater ele- vation than they had done for 80 years, and the weather was unusualh trying. On the whole', the climate of Eastern and Western Canada is favourable to health and longevity. In the Niagara, and other dis- tricts of Eastern Canada, peaches arrive at great perfection in the open air. The energy of the inhabitants is one indication among many of the salubrity of the atmosphere. CHAPTER IV. POPULATION OF E. AND W. CANADA, CLASSIFICATION, CHARACTER, DIVISION OF RACES, GOVERNMENT, LAWS, RELIGION, EDUCATION, THE PRESS, CRIME, &c. Canada, like other portions of the American continent, was densely peopled by a copper- coloured race, tr> whom the term Indiana was given by tliti dv^foverers of the "New World." The establisment of European Colonies, and the wars waged between the early English and French settlers in Canada, led to the rapid destruction of the abo- rigines, who being neither agricultural or nomadic, and living solely by the produce of the chase and fishing, were driven into the back settlements as civilization extended. The Abenaqua, Algonquin, Iroquois, Mis- sisagua, and Huron Indians, occupied the districts from below Quebec to the country around lakes Erie and Huron. We have no means of ascertaining the numbers of the Indians then inhabiting Canada. Charlevoix, in 1721, estimated the number of some of the Algonguin tribes at 6,000 souls ; but they were then dimin- ishing daily under the baneful effects of intoxicating liquors, and by diseases intro- duced from Europe. Some of the Iroquois tribes with whom the French waged several disastrous wars, were estimated by Charle- voix, in his History of New France, vol. iii. p. 203, at 60,000 souls. The Indian population remaining in 1828 was estimated by Mr. M'Taggart (Three Years in Canada) at 4Pi,000, viz., 15,000 in Eastern Canada, and 28,000 in Western Canada. The British Government, in fulfilment of previous engagements, distributes annually certain articles among a portion of the aboriginal population in Canada; and the following is an official statement of the presents required for the year 18i9:- Full equipment — chiefs, 46 j warriors, 50; women, 77. Common equipment — chiefs, 190; wairiors, 3,356; women, 3,977; boys, 1,024; girls, 1,021; total, 12,818. The equipments, include blue and grey clothes, cottons, linen, about 1.2,000 blankets, brass kettles, muskets, powder, ball, tobacco, needles (22,428), combs (5,607), awls (5,607), knives (5,607). The character of the Indians and their different tribes, will be given under the description of the Hudson's Bay territories. In 1692, Quebec contained only 50 Eiiro- peans, including both sexes. In 1706, M.M. Ran dot stated the population of Canada at 20,000. In 1714, M. Do Ponchartrain, in a letter to M. De Vaudreuil, stated, that Canada contained 4,484 men capable of bearing arms, i.e., from 14 to 60 years of age, which multiplied by 6, gives 26,904. In 1720, the city of Quebec contained 7,000, and Montreal 3,000 inhabitants. The following details are chiefly derived from the documents la 11 before the Canadian Parliament in 1849. The population of Eastern Canada is stated to have increased as follows : — Year. Pop. Year. Pop. . 423,630 1076 . 8,415 1825 1688 . 11,249 1827 . 471,876 1700 . 15,000 1831 . 511,922 1700 . 20,000 1836 . 672,827 1759 . 65,000 1844 . 690,782 1784 . 113,000 1848 . 768,334 The census of 1825 showed, on a popula- tion of 423,630, male adults to the numbiir of 105,571, or a per centage of 2490. In 1844 on a population of 690,782, as com- pared with 511,920 in 1825, the increased t^-U. 13,630 ll,876 11,922 l2,827 10,782 |8,334 , popula- i numljcr •90. In las com- ■ncrcased POPULATION OF EASTERN CANADA BY COUNTIES. 107 per ccntage of males was 34'94. In 1844-45 there were, of white inhabitants — males, 344,855; females, 346,077; coloured — males, 140; females, 141. There was no census taken in Eastern Canada for 1848; but by careful estimates and per centages on the previous rates of an- nual increase, an approximate calculation has been mnde; and the following table shows the area in square miles of each county in Eastern Canada, and the population in 1844 unmarried, 39.45. Married women above 14 years of age, 61.18 per cent.; and single, 38.83 per cent. Males. Married. Single. Total. 15 and under 21 21 „ 30 30 „ 40 40 „ 50 50 „ 60 60 and upwards Total in 1844 . 1831 . „ 1823 . 2,038 22,974 33,684 26,797 15,148 13,393 39,589 20,176 6,909 31,119 2,089 2,780 41,627 43,160 39,693 28,916 17,237 16,173 and 1848:— 173,034 83,153 69,938 73,662 60,690 36,935 186,696 143,843 Districts. Land, Square MUes. Population. 105,873 1844. 1848. In England it is assumed that the births Qasfe : — Onspe Bonnventure QuEiiEC:— Saguonay .... Montmorenci Quebec .... Portncuf .... Kimouski .... 4,053 4,560 76,700 7,465 16,010 10,440 8,200 1,090 1,220 1,083 735 2,0.50 1,466 6,200 7,300 1,644 283 487 2,785 632 9,690 6,090 645 1,404 35,100 197 330 717 488 211 198 373 477 429 749 360 7,146 8,246 13,475 8,434 46,676 16,922 17,630 17,465 17,013 14,649 13,697 34,817 6,449 10,404 20,833 9,374 11,956 16,310 13,485 11,964 26,859 25,533 20,646 26,835 12,434 64,306 17,063 28,746 36,204 17,165 13,167 20,888 21,937 22,898 10,105 10,865 7,771 8,786 19,364 8,988 65,805 17,777 19,683 18,992 18,620 16,823 16,292 38,877 7,635 11,312 17,981 10,467 13,000 17,736 16,055 13,009 29,988 28,507 23,052 29,952 17,870 71,039 18,564 32,095 39,371 18,610 14,029 22,255 23,894 24,900 11,282 11,815 are about 1 to 33 of the whole population, and the deaths 1 in 54. In Eastern Ca- nada, according to the census of 1844, there were — Districts. 1844. Kamouraska L'lslet BcUechasse .... Lotbiniero .... Dorchester .... Megantic .... Thiiee RrvEEs:— Champlain .... St. Maurice .... Drummond .... Yamoska .... Births. Deaths. Marriages. Quebec .... Montreal . . . Three Kivers . Gaspfe ..... St. Francis . . In the whole Total numbers lin 20 „ 20 „ 21 „ 29 „ 101 » 21 lin 41 " 51 " 60 " 126 " 348 " 63 1 in 109 » 111 „ 106 „ 136 „ 230 „ 113 Nicolet St. Frakcis :— Sherbronke .... Stanstcad .... Montreal :— Berthicr 32,279 12,928 6,118 Note. — The returns for St. Francis district are im- perfect, and fractions omitted. Terrebonne .... Two Mountains . Districts. 1847. Ottawa .... Montreal Births. Marriages. Deaths. BrnuhamciS Huntingdon Chambly .... Vcrchcrea .... Kichclieu .... St. Hyancintho . RouTiUe .... Montreal . . . Quebec .... Three Rivers . St. Francis . . Gospg Total . . . 18,772 11,715 3,612 614 594 381 2,005 572 161 104 9,435 10,221 1,238 120 128 Sheftbrd .... Missisquoi .... 35,207 6,283 21,142 ToUl . . . 209,290 690,782 768,334 Increase of Births over Deaths, 14,165. This statement shews how thinly Eastern Canada is peopled: there being not more than three mouths and a half ^° ^"^'' square mile. The census of IS^^t in Eastern Canada was accurate, and '.*■ shows that out of 690,782 inhabitants, thei^^ were under 15 years of age, males, 160,535, females, 158,731 = 319,266. The proportion in 1844 of married men to tlie whole, was 60.55 per cent. ; and of The census of 1844 shows, in Eastern Ca- nada, the following interesting particulars: — Deaf and DunA in 1844. Districts. Males. Fems. Total. Average. Montreal . . . St. Francis . . Three Rivers . Quebec .... Gaspe Total . . . 254 14 89 73 7 167 17 31 58 3 421 31 70 101 10 1 in 875 „ 1,046 „ 983 „ 1,360 „ 1,539 407 2 76 683 l.OU 108 BLIND, DKAF, DIMD, AND IDIOTS IN EASTERN CANADA. Mnd in INM, ListrioU. Montreal , . St. Francii , Three Iliver» Quebec . . , Oasp6 .... Total '!,\lei, lao (> 00 a 473 femn, m 3 947 Total. •I lio d!i(.> Tirnfnr Avurngc. 1 in 1,212 „ 2,449 „ 774 „ 1,863 „ 9,848 1,328 Digtricti. Montreal . . . St. Francis , , Three Riven , Quebec , , . , Oaspf' . . . . Toto! , . Districts. Montfuiil . , St Franoi* , Three liivs^n Quebi'p . , . Gasp6 .... Total Ai'^rnge. 1 In 709 <, 1,022 „ ilO „ 038 ., 1,710 ■,'28 Avtroge. 1 in 2,201 „ 4,054 „ 1,003 „ 2,853 „ 6,133 „ 2,203 In 1831 there were i-etumcd ns living upon jiirns in Lower Cantidn, 1283 persons, or one in every 390 of the population. In 1844 the num))er wftit 4568, or one in every 151 of the population, It appears there was an increase of pftuperisui between 1831 and 1844, (prohfthly owiiiji to the rebellion of 1887-38) as shown in tlie following table: Districts. Montreal . . , St. Francis , , Tliree Rivers , Quebec . . , , QaBp6 1891. Un 679 ., "^710 ., 1,!)31 \M\. I In 282 ., 1,101 „ 303 I. "N „ flVO Per cent. intrcEse. 150-32 121-62 337'30 nO'OO Piiipnilwniilii (tivinihtintiii nf tlir J'mph. Occupationn. Proprietors of real mtstit Non-Proprietors , , , , . Families subsiiitintf Jiy agriculture ,,.,,, I, ti Male farm-servants , , , Domestic servanlH, Mule „ ,1 l''i!in«lt> Children attending whool under 14 years i>f pm; 1831, lit) „ 20 „ 60,8.14 „ 2.501 ,, 7,002 1 lit 1844. 1 in 9 18 No return. 1 in 3,051 „ 0,106 „ 6,414 „ 11,528 arrived in the colony immi^i-ants to the number of 167,697; ditlo, {m^, , 18*6, / 8,271 In the year 1847,e9,!.M), 'Petal, 5i-i;,Cl9- Comparative Stalemet,' of /n: :J,-anU at Quebec ! 1842. I'i:'.' mi.l ',"... 1=^'' ! ISi,. Jn the five ymm tnidiiig 1833, thcro Engh'id . . Ii.rmd . . S(.u»I;md . . i-v,:' Porta Total 12,49? ■>470 ;,H87 6,!M(- 9,63E 4,178 4b0 40374 21,187 WA. 7,701 !>,773 i,451 217 W,H2 «,8H5 14,208 2,174 160 26,376 9,163 21,049 1,64.5 896 32,753 60 ,270 3,316 7,437 89,440 A'o'e.-Iu IM's IflO; ir.d in 1846, 896, " Low I Port'' u crc f ' inu Oennany ,r, ur .rem Immigration from the U. Kingdom in N, yi.t,wricit. Years. 1826 18y6 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1836 1836 Tital Nh. Am. Colonies. 8,741 12318 12,648 12,084 13,:)07 30,674 68,067 66,339 28308 40,060 16/,73 34,226 333.246 U. States. 5,561 7,063 U/)26 12317 If .378 24,C.<7 23,.18 32372 29,109 33,074 26,720 37,774 Years. Brt.up 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 1843 1845 1846 1347 1.848 263489 Total 767,373 Nh. Am. Colonics. 333,216 293H4 4,577 12,663 32.i93 38,164 54,123 23,618 22,924 31303 43,43'.. 109,680 31,066 U. Statos. 263,489 36,770 14,332 33,536 40,642 45,017 63362 2833<> 43,660 68,538 82,239 142,164 188,233 1,040,797 Most of thes.i immiKtani.'i, rocetd to Western Cmaiu'; but nu'ny cri-i ■! lie t'rou tier into the territories of .he United States.. It is not possible to asceriuin the numbers who thus leave the colony, nor in what dis- trict the immigrants who remain settle. The year 1847 was one of large emigra- tion from the Lhiited Kingdom to Canada, owing to the famine in Ireland and in Scot- land, and the ijistress in England. Of 98,088 passengevN who embarked, 8,648 died at sea or in qnusantine in Canada. To Western Canada, 7"'i,380 immigrants passed during 1847 — of tl;cse 15,228 were admitted into the hospitals a', the various stations, and 3,805 died. About 17,000 passed into the United States. The number of ships that arrived at Que- bec with immigrants in 1847, was — from England 133— Ireland 224— Scotland, Ger- many 36 — total 431 : — landed in the colony 83,873: — of whom 695 were cabin passen- gers — 32,817 male, and 25,654 female adults — 13,101 male and 13,301 female children, and 4,872 infants under one year old, of whom 172 were born at sea. The male adults were — mechanics 1 1 85 — fanners 11,096— labourers 23,239— servants 6. Westeri 5,489 i,770 :,332 i,636 ),642 6,017 B.862 8,335 3,600 8,838 2539 |2,164 j,233 |0,79r POPULATION OP WESTERN CANADA SINCE 1811. 109 The French colonists did not advance far into Western Canada, probably owing to their wars with the Indians. Previous to 1770, the only white settlera in Western Canada were a few Frenchmen in the vicinities of Kingston and Detroit. When the United Colonies (now the United States) threw off their allegiance to England, and the war com- menced between them and the parent state, many desirous of remaining under the crown of England, fled from the revolting provinces, and 40 31,016 47,433 NinKnra 70.1,.'«i0 36,6'i2 43,095 Ottftwn 632,060 7,369 10,364 l'rln(!() F, . 42,274 28,72« 87,174 10,N14 3,010 711 1,318 0,231 3390 4,067 96 144 164 20,14fi Welter.) Canada. 1842. 107,791 77369 6A,203 23,342 32,313 20,12d 7,141 18,220 4,283 16,411 4,824 6,200 1,106 101/i38 1848. 171,767 67,900 123,707 90,363 36393 14,977 66,101 6,126 28,966 7,420 6,148 134 83347 Note. — "Other denominations" in Western Cnnada in 1848, include 62,128 of no creed or {l»nomina- tion, 4,767 menonisi*; 2,269 universalists j TOO unitarians ; and 13,983 of all other denominations. The presbyterians of Western Canada in 1848, include 64,729 nf the "free presbyterian church of Canada," and ilO,372 of other presbyterians. _ The census of 1848 of Western Canada, shows a deficiency of 22,790, compared with the census by ages, which Iiave been divided among the several denominations in proportion to the numbers returned. Sectarian jealousies prevail so strongly that perfect accuracy m the religious census cannot be expected. The character of the inhabitants of Canada partakes of the source whence they spring — if of French descent, levity and obsequious- ness give place to ease, or rather gentleness of manner, combined with manly, yet re- spectful freedom of deportment: the descen- dants of the EngUsh lose the rusticity and boorishness peculiar to the lower class of tliiir ancestors; and with abimdance of the neces- saries of life, and leisure for the improve- ment of their minds, the natural saturnine character of the British is relieved by a pleasing buoyancy of spirit and enthusiasm of action. The offspring of the original French in- habitants, forming about one-half of the population, deserve a few special remarks as to their habits and manners. Most of the people are proprietors to a greater r- less extent, of land; and the equal di\isiou of property, on the demise of a parent, contri- butes to spread a large mass of industry and capital over the country. Possessed of the means of a comfortable existence, and freed from the dreiid of future want, the Canadian spends 'lis life iu chfrrful toil, and evinces by his light-hearted, hospitable, and social habits, the blessings derived from the enjoy- ment, on no harsh terms, of the few and simple necessaries of life. The true Canadian, although fond of plea, sure and social happiness, is yet rather n sedentary being, and of a staid, often sombre deportment; peculiarly attached to the locality which gave him birth; devoted to the religion in which he was educated, sin- cere in his respect for those whom he con- siders his superiors, and remarkable for his faithful frdiilment of every social duty. Although unlettered himself in the European sense of the term, he is ever ready to pay his tribute of respect to those possessed of mental endowments — ^the more so if literary attainments be accompanied by moral worth; with a mind deeply imbued with early pre- judices as to religion, country, and institu- tions, yet charitable to a considerable extent towards the feelings and even ^e failings of others; polite, withouL affectation; gener- ous, without parade ; slow to offend ; quick to resent an insult, yet ready to forgive. Many governors have borne testimony to the favourable traits which distinguish the French Canadians. Lord Durham said — "they are mild and kindly, f.agal, industri- ous, and honest; -.ery sociable, cheerl'ul, and hospitable, r,:d distinguished for a cour- tesy and real politeness, which pervades eveiy class of society." The French Canadian women are when young, handsome brunettes, fond of finery, but good wives and mothers; their wit is sparkling, and in constant exercise, more playful than sarcastic, delighting rather than wounding, but withal remarkable for a kind of good-natured maliciousness. All who have visited the Canadas agree that society there is extremely agreeable — freed from imnecessary forms, giving to life an air of delightfiil case, and to private intercourse a Ciiarming tone and colouring. As in all Roman catholic countrios, the enjoyments of the people are connected with their religious ceremonies; on the Sab- bath morn, the parish, or viUage chapel, is thronged with both sexes, clad in their best habiliments; but, the service over, and that part of their duty to the Creator fulfilled, the remainder of the day is devoted to festivity ; the enjoyment of social happiness being considered an essential part of the weekly festival. Sunday afternoon is, in fact, a season of gaiety ; the parish church collects together an assemblage of relatives and CIIARACTEll OP TUB FRENCH CANADIANS. 118 fHcnds intent on enjoyment ; tlie old meet to converse on the state of the weather — the erops — the politics of the day ; the yoiiii;^ to make love to their sweethearts — the che- valier, on his best pnccr, or driving his finest carriole — the lady, adorned in the most be- coming style, palpitating with the hopes and fears of an approaching bridal day — the evening in cheerful feasts, to which dancing is frequently superadded. The habitans (French Canadians) of the poorer classes arc generally tall and thin, with small, dark, lively eyes, aquiline noses, and thin lips. Those who arc much exposed to the air are as dark as the Indian race. The dress of the habitan is peculiar, as well as his manners; it consists of a grey cloth capot, or large coat reaching to the knee, bound round the middle with a sash of scarlet, or exhibiting various bright col- ours, and elosc-buttoncd to the neck : the bonnet bleu, or a light straw hat is worn in the heat of summer, a fur cap in ;vintcr; mocassins of sole leather complete the male peasant's usual dress. The female peasant's costume is similar to that worn in the south of France — the mantelet, a jacket of dark, or different coloured cloth, with a stuff petti- coat, mocassins, and a head dress a la Fran- caise: on Sunday, of course, the habiliments :ii'e of more varied character, and where the English girl wears one colour, the Cana- dian will exhibit half a dozen of the bright- est hues. The people are fnigal in their habits ; their diet consists chiefly of soups, vegetables, and fish, and their farms furnish almost every thing they require. Of the houses it may be sufficient to ob- serve that there is a great similarity between those of the farmers and peasantry in Nor- mandy, and the people of a similar grade in Caiada; they are generally of one story, iiuilt of wood, whitewashed, extremely clean Avithin, and having the chimney in the cen- tre of the building; there is a partition between the kitchen and large apartment, where the inmates dwell ; the sleeping-rooms are at either end of the house, which is well furnished with beds, home-made linen of excellent texture; strong, convenient, and often handsome furniture, and alarge vaiiety of culinary utensils. The adjacent garden, though laid out with little regard to the rules of art, abounds in fruit and vegetables, the rearing of which devolves on the women of the family, whose taste is often displayed in small patches of flowers, which appear to grow wild, but arc VOL. I. really raised with care, to afford that exqui- site enjoyment which the rudest and leant sophisticated seem to feel in viewing and scenting " the lilies of the fields." The farm lies around the house ; and at a greater or less dist.ance, the river or lake offers an ample supply of the finny tribe for a cuisine, always abundant, sometimes luxurious: while the rich maple yields a large store of sugar, for the preservation of the luscious summer fruits, througii a long and dreary winter. Lord Durham, in his able report, has drawn an excellent picture of the French Canadian; he traces from its commencement the deep-rooted hatred of race which exer- cises so injurious an influence upon the in- ternal peace and prosperity of Canada, and renders its legislation so difficult at the present moment. At the period of the early colonization of Canada, the institutions of France were, perhaps more than those of any other European nation, calculated to repress the intelligence and freedom of the great mas=i of the people. The same ill- organised and repressive despotism followed the Canadian colonist across the Atlantic. He was allowed no voice in the govern- ment of his province or the choice of his rulers, and not even permitted to associate with his neighbours for the regulation of municipal affairs. He obtained his land on a tenure singularly calculated to promote his immediate comfort, but which placed him at once in a life of constant labour and of feudal dc-pendenee. Ecclesiastical authority con- tinued to exercise its influence over him — education was neglected both by the govern- ment and by the people, and congregated together in rural communities, occupying portions of the unappropriated soil, Avith abundance of the m( re necessaries of life, retained in a ( nur^io of labour, varied only by the social er.joyinents to which the French are so mu>!h attached, the colonists remained for ycjvM the same uninstrueted, inactive, and \mprogrc8sive people. No towns were established ; a series of continu- ous villages along the banks of the St. Law- rence gave the seignories the appearance of a never-ending street ; and the farms owed their productiveness to the fertility of the soil, rather than to the skill employed for its cultivation. Their energy was manifested chiefly in the fur trade, and in hunting, and commerce was scarcely deemed deserving oi attention. With the tenacity peculiar to the Gothic or Celtic race, the people clung to Q t ;r lU KNEROY OP THE BRITISH CANADIANS. ancient prejudices, cugtoma, and laws ; and the liabitN and mannors which gradually paHscd awny from European society were preserved in all their priHtino character in the new world. At the time of the Dritish conquest of Canada, the people were in an old and stationary state of society — in the vicinity of an active and progressive Anglo- Saxon race. A few families possessed Bcignorial rights, large, though not valu- able, properties, and much influence over the bulk of the people, of whom few de- E ended on wages for their support — the man" cing in the condition of a hard-workiug yeomanry. The piety of the early founders of Canada, and the foresight of the Jesuits, provided seminaries and means for public instruction, which was little attended to until density of population pressed on the means of exist- ence, and made the cadets of families seek in a profession the subsistence heretofore derived from the land. Two or three hundred young men thus annually became by educa< tion superior to the community whence they sprang, and as the military and naval profes- sions were resources not available to the colonists, the church, the law, and medicine hccame ovcrthronged with Wllage soon priests, advocates, and mcdiciners, who, pos sessed of superior knowledge, wielded an extraordinary influence over an uninstructed population, with whom they lived on terms of social equality, and from whom they were separated oy no barriers of manners, of pride, or distinct interests. Unfortunately the British government took no steps to conciliate or to employ this class, who natu- rally fell into the position of demagogues, and were moved as one mass by the lead- ing members of the House of Assembly, during the struggle for constitutional rights, which has been detailed in the first chapter. " Among the people," says Lord Durham — " The progress of emigration has of late years intro- duced an Enelish population, exhibiting the character- istics with Tvnich we are familiar, as those of the most enterprising of every class of our countrymen. The circumstances of the early colonial administration excluded the native Canadian from power, and vested all offices of trust and emolument in the hands of strangers of English origin. The highest posts in the law were confided to the same class of persons. The functionaries of the civil government, together with the officers of the army, composed a kmd of privileged class, occupying the first place in the com- munity, and excluding the higher class of the natvcs fiom society, as well as from the government of their own country. It was not till within a very few years, as was testified by persons who had seen much of the countrj', that this society of civil anil military f\tnctionaries oeaicd to exhibit townrla the hiKher order of Canadians an exclunivenrsH of demeanour which was more revoltins to a sensitive and polite people than the monopoly of power and profit; nor was this national favouritism 'hscontinucd until ultcr repeated complaints and an angry contest, which had excited passions that concessions could not alia/. The races had become enemies ere a tardy justice was extorted) and even then the government disco- vered a mode of distributini{ its patronuge among the Canadians, which was nuite as offensive to that people as their previous exclusion." The English capitalist, merchant, trader, and farmer became formidable competitors with an inert race; they rapidly acquired about half of the more valuable seignorial rights in the townships, and considerable irritation arose by the transfer of large pror perties from burthencd seignors to active British agriculturists and settlers, whose superior energy, skill, and capital, not only threw into their hands the entire wholesale, and a large proportion of the retail trade of the pro\incc, but also vested in their hands the most profitable and flourishing farms. It will aiford an idea of the influence and power posstdsed by the British minority previous to the legislative union of Eastern and Western Canada, by examining the relative investments of the two races in the public institutions of the province : — Public Compnnici. Capital. Shares Enolibh-Canai)i\n : Stock of Montreal bank . Ditto of City Baiik . Ditto of Champlain, and St. Lawrence Railway Company Ditto Montreal Water Works Ditto of St. Lawrence Steam-boat Company . Ditto Montreal Steam Tow Boat Company . Ditto Ottawa and Riucau Forwarding Company . Ditto St. Lawrence Steam- boat and Mail Coach Company Ditto Montreal Oos Workn Ditto St. Ann Market . Ditto of other Steam-boats and eapital invested in the Forwarding estab- lishments on the St. Lawrence, above and below Montreal . French-Canadi.\n : Stock of Mutual Insu- rance Company . Ditto Bonquo du Feuple People's Bank £. 250,000 200,000 50,000 70,000 65,000 40,200 33,190 2.),000 20,000 1«,.W0 60,000 818,890 40,000 80,000 5,000 8,000 1,000 80 48 710 1,172 1,000 1,000 British. FVcnch £. 247,400 102,800 49,150 70,000 Cl,ni5 38/il3 32,482 25,000 19,.")00 13,u7o 50,000 938,890 £ 2,000 7,200 850 3,385 1,682 503 600 l,9i5 800,040 1S,8>0 16,231 30,000 816,321 23,719 50,000 92,--69 I Previous to the rebellion of IS37, the \M'i £ 2,000 7,200 8oO 3,185 1,GS2 503 h) 1 GOO ISJJiO 23,71'J 50,000 CAUSES KOll HOSTILITY OF RACE. IIP. antaf^nitim of mco Imd rUvn to a ffront hci((ht. It would not be \)()«sil)lo to convey in few words an ndcqunte ideii of the deep- rooted feelings of estrunt^einent and almost aversion with whirh the Freneh and English Canadians ri'unrded each other, and by which the tranquillity of the province was ■0 seriously injured. The languaj^o of Lord Durham is so clear upon this point, and the facts he states so elucidatory of tho mis- chievous consequences of ])layin^ off the prejudices of two races against each otiier, that 1 cannot resist giving tho following Eortion of the llcport laid by his lordship efore the queen: — " I do not believe thnt tho snimniiity wliich exisia between the workinf; clasae!! of the two origins ii the necessary result of a colliaion of interests, or of a jealousy of the superior succe^^ of Knglish labour. Hut national prcjudicei* naturally exercise the greatest influence over tlie moat uneducated; the ditfercnco of language ia leas easily overcome; the differencea of manners and customs leas easily appreciated. The labourers, whom the emigration introduced, contained a number of very ignorant, turbulent, and demoralized persona, whose conduct and manners olike revolted the well-ordered and courteous natives of the same daas. The working-men naturally ranged themaclves on the side of the educated and wealthy of their own countrymen. When once engaged in the conflict, their paaxions were less restrained by education and prudence: and the na- lional hostility now rages most fiercely between thoao whoso interests in reality bring them the least in colliaion. " The two races thus distinct hove been brought into the same community, under circumstances which rendered their contact inevitably productive of colli- sion. The difference of language from the first kept them asunder. It is not anywhere a virtue of the English race to look with complacency on any plan- ners, customs, or laws, which oppear strange to them; accustomed to form a high estimate of their own superiority they tnke no pama to conceal from others their contempt and intolerance of their usages. They found the French Canadian filled with an equal amount of national pride; a sensitive, but inactive pride, which disposes that people not to resent insult, nut rather to keep aloof from those who would keep them under. The French could not but feel the superiority of English entcrprize; they could not shut their eyes to their success in every undertaking in which they came into contact, and to the constant superiority which they were acquiring. They looked upon their rivals with alarm, with jealousy, and, finally, with hatred. The English repaid them with a scorn, which soon alao assumed the same form of hatred. The French complained of the arrogance and injustice of the English; the English accused the French of the vices of a weak and conquered people, and charged them with meanness and perfidy. The entire mistrust which the two races have thus learned to conceive of each other's intentions, induces them to put the worst construction on tlif most innocent conduct; to judge every word, every act, and every intention unfairly; to attribute the oiost odious designs, and reject every overture of kindness or fairness, as covering secret designs o'i Ireiirbery and malignity. " llcligioM fornivd no bond of intercourse and union. It ia, indeed, an admirable feature of Csnn- diiin society, that it in entirely devoid of any religious disacnaiona. Sectarian intolerance is not merely not avowed, but it hardly seems to influence men's feel- ings. Hut though the prudence and liberality of both parties hna prevented thia fruitful source ol animosity from emiiittering their quarrels, the ditfer- ence of religion has in fact tended to keep them asunder. Tneir priests have been diatinct; they have not met even in the same church. " No common education has served to remove nnd Boften the difference of origin and language. The aasociations of youth, the aporta of childhood, and the studies bv which the character of manhood is modified, are diHtinct and totally different. In Mon- treal .-.nd Quebec there are English schools and French schools; the children in these are accustomed to flght nation against nation, and the quarrels that arise among boys in tlie atreeta usually exhibit a division into English on one side, and French on the other. As they are taught apart, ho are their studies different. The literature with which each is the most conversant, is that of tho peculiar language of each; and all the ideas which men derive "^rom hcoks, come to each of them from perfectly different sources. The difference of language in this respect produces cflects quite apart from those which it has on tlio mere intercourat ^f the two races. Those who have reflected on the powerful influence of language on thought, will perceive in how different a manner people who speak in different languages ore apt to think; and those who are familiar with the literature of France, know that the same opinion vill be ex- pressed by an English and French writer of the present day, not merely in different words, but in a style so different as to mark utterly diflerent habits of thought. This difl'erence is very striking in Lower Canada; it exists not merely in tho books of most influence nnd repute, which are of course those of the great writers of France and England, and by which the minds of the respective races arc formed, but it is observable in the writings which now issue from the colonial preas. Tho articles in the newspapers of each race, are written in a stylo as widely diflerent as those of France and England at present; and the arguments which convinc- ♦He one, are calculated to appear utterly unintelligible w v.i- other. " The difference of language produces misconcep- tions yet more fatal even than those which it occa- sions with respect to opinions; it aggravates the national animosities, by representing all the events of the day in utterly diflerent lights. The political misrepresentation of facts is one of the incidents of a free press in every free country; but in nations in which all speak the same language, those who receive a misrepresentation from one side, have generally some means of learning the truth from the other In Lower Canada, however, where the French and Eng- lish papers represent adverse opinions, and where no large portion of the community can read both languages with ease, thpse who receive the misrepre- sentations arc rarely able to avail themselves of the means of correction. It is difficult to conceive the perversity with which misrepresentations are habitu- ally made, and the gross delusions which find cur- rency among the people: they thus live in a world of misconceptions, in which each party is set uguinst 11 B I 116 OBSTACLES TO GOOD GOVERNMENT IN CANADA. the other, not only by diversity of feelings and opinions, but by an actual belief in an utterly differ- ent set of facts. The differences thus early occasioned by education and language, are in nowise softened by the inter- course of after-life; their business and occupations do not bring the two races into friendly contact and co-operation, but only present them to each other in occasional rivalry. They rarely meet at the inns in the cities; the principal hotels are almost exclusively filled with English and with foreign travellers; and the French are, for the most part, received at each other's houses, or in boarding-nouses, iu which they meet with few English. Nor do their amusements bring them more in con- tact. Social intercourse never existed between the two races in any but the higher classes, and it is now almost destroyed. I heard of but one house in Que- bec in which both races met on pretty equal and amicable terms, and this was mentioned as a singular instance of good sense or. the part of the gentleman to whom it belongs. At the commencement of Lord Aylmer's administration, an entertainment was given to his lordship by Mr. Papineau, the Speaker of the House of Assembly. It was generally understood to be intended as a mark of confidence and good-will towards the governor, and of a conciliatory disposi- tion. It was given on a very large scale, a very rveat number of persons were present; and of that number, I was informed by a gentleman who was present, that he and one other were the only English except the governor and his suite. Indeed the differ- ence of manners in the two races renders a general social intercourse almost impossible. "A singular instance of national incompatibility was brought before my notice, in an attempt which I made to promote an undertaking, ii\ which the French are said to toke a great deal of interest. I accepted the office of President tf the Agricultural Association of the district of Qui bee, and attended the show previous to the distribution of the prizes. I then found that the French farmers would not compete even on this neuiral ground with the Eng- lish; distinct prizes were given, in almost every department to the two races ; and the national plough- ing matches were carried on in seijarate and even distant fields. " While such is their social intercourse, it is not to be expected that the animosities of the two races can frequently be softened by the formation of domestic connections. During the first period of the posses- sion of the colony by the English, intermarriages of the two races were by no means uncommon; but they are now very rare. " I could mention various slight features in the state of society, which show the all-pervading and marked division of the races; but nothing (though it will sound paradoxical) really proves their entire separation so much as the rarity, nay almost total absence, of personal encounters between the two races. Disputes of this kind are almost confined to the ruder order of people, and seldom proceed to acts of violence. As respects the other classes, sociol intercourse between tlie two if :cs is so limited, that I the more prominent or exci' ie antagonists never 1 meet in the same room. It onme to my knowledge I that a gentleman, who was for some years a most active and determined loader amongst the English population, had never once been under a private roof wi'h French Caiiadinns of his own rank iu life, until he met bonn. nt table on the invitation of persons i attached to my mission, who were in the habit of associating indifferently v;ith French and English. There are, therefore, no political personal controver- sies. The ordinary occasions of collision never occur, and men must quarrel so publicly, or to deliberately, that prudence restrains them from commencing indi- vidually, what would probably end in a general and bloody conflict of numbers. Their mutual fears restram personal disputes and riots, even among the lower orners ; the French know and dread the supe- rior physical strength of the English in the cities; and tne English in those places refrain from exhibit- ing tlieir power, from the fear of the revenge that might be taken on their countrymen, who are scat- tered over the rural parishes. " This feeling of mutual forbearance extends so far us to produce an apparent calm with respect to public matters, which is calculated to perplex a stranger who has heard much of the animosities of the pro- vince. No trace of them appears in public meetings; and these take place in every direction, in the most excited periods, and go off without disturbance, and almost without dissent. The fact is, that both par- ties have come to a tacit 'understanding, not in any way to interfere with each other on these occasions ; each party knowing that it would always be in the power of the other to prevent its meetings. The British party consequently have their meetings ; the French theirs; and neither disturb the other. The complimentary addresses which I received on various occasions, marked the same entire separotion, even in a matter in which it might be fupposed that party feeling would not be felt, or would from mere pru- dence and propriety be concealed. I had from the Fame places, French and English addressrs, and I never found the two races uniting, tsccpc in a few cases where I met with the names of two or three isolated members of one origin, who happened to dwell in a community almost entirely composed of the other. The two parties combine for no public object; they cannot harmonize even in associations of charity. The only public occasion on which they ever meet, is in the jurj'-box; and they meet there only to the utter obstruction of justice." With these grave obstacles her majesty's government have, at the present moment, tu contend. It is well kno^vn to he the anxious desire of the Queen, that justice should be administered v-ith entire impar- tiality to all classes of her majesty's sub- jects; that a faithful discharge of public duties, and exemplary conduct in private life, are the only means by ^vhich the honotirs and favours of the crown can be obtained, and the support of the British government secured. The old system of " Divide et Im- pcra" has passed away, alike at home, and in the colonies; but a system which was founded in fear, and perpetuated by injus- tice, has necessarily entailed evils which render good government for all classes a matter of great difficulty. There has been no disposition on the part of the British nation to retain Canada in leading-strings; the feelings of nationality always so strong in English hearts, has prevented the growth DIVISION OP CANADA IN 1791. 117 IIJUS- Ivhich pes a I hccu ritish ■iugs; Itroug lowth of petty jealousies, and taught them to look with affectionate solicitude on the proceed- ings of a province which they have long considered an important and integral part of the British Empire. The queen and the Imperial Legislatvu-e, therefore, freely bestowed on Canada a more independent constitution than was ever before given by any parent state to its colony, and the Canadians now possess perfect freedom in the management of their local affairs. In- stead of seeking to maintain a superiority in the Colonial Legislature, the Anglo-Saxon would do well to recollect the evils which resulted after the Norman conquest of England from the dominance of a race, and the indulgence of strong prejudices and cherished antipathies. Ireland, too, offers anotheT Illustration of the injurious con- sequcT-ces attendant on political or social subvigation, and a proof that the continu- ance v,f such a state of things is, in the long run, alike injurious to the dominant and to the subjugated race, and is, evidently, in- compatible with national Uberty or progress. The present is a most critical period for Canada : everything, under Providence, now depends on tranquillity being not merely temporarily restored, but established on a satisfactory basis. Thus only can the ex- traordinary resources of the province be developed — the English capitalist induced to invest monies in projected railways and canals — and the rcspcctalile, intelligent, and order • loving class of emigrants to select Canada for the scene of present labour, the home of their families, and the country of their adoption. Great forbearance on all sides is absolutely essential, whether among political parties in England, or between those of Anglo-Saxon or of Norman descent — all are, in truth, citizens of the same state, with interests, which, to a great extent, are necessarily identical — their individual pros- perity being closely allied with that of their common country, whose welfare must inevi- tably be impeded by their dissensions, and would be materially promoted by their cor- dial union. Many circumstances, but, above all, the growing influence of Christianity, and the extension of education fouiided ou its principles, justify the hope that the Canadians, who have long been respected for their tried loyalty and exemplary conduct in a domestic sphere, may, ore Ion;;;, prove their appreciation of the relative duties of public life — and to the high character they have long borne of faithful subjects, good husbands, and affectionate fathers, add that of peaceable and united citizens. This seems to be the only requisite now wanting to the welfare of their highly-favoured coun- try; and may heaven grant to all concerned in it, the self-denial, forbearance, and Chris- tian charity necessary to its attainment. Government. — When Canada was in the possession of the French, the form of gov- ernment was a pure despotism. In 1774 the first British Act of Parliament was passed, fixing the boimdaries of Canada — making provision for the better government of this part of his majesty's dominions, and vesting the authority in a governor, aided by a Council of not fewer than 17, and not more than 2-3 persons, who had power to frame ordinances, but not to levy taxes, except for making public roads, and erect- ing a few local structures. By this act the English criminal law was preserved ; but it was enacted, that " in all matters of contro- versy, relative to property and civil rights, resort should be had to the rule and decision of the laws of Canada" — excepting, however, from this concession to French law, " lands which had been or should be granted in free and common soccage." The Roman Ca- tholic religion, with all its immxmitics and rights, was secured to those of the Canadians who professed that faith. After an interval of 17 years, this act was followed by Mr. Pitt's, or rather Lord GrenviUe's Act, styled the Constitution of 1791, under the provisions of which, Canada was divided into Upper and Lower provinces. Eastern or Lower Canada received by tliis act a constitution, consisting of a Governor and Executive Council of 11 members, ap- pointed by the crown (similar to the Privy Council in England) — a Legislative Council appointed by mandamus from the king, forming the second estate, and at that time consisting of 15 members, but .subsetjuently increased to 34', and a Representative As- sembly, or third estate, composed of 50 members, and consisting of 4 citizens from each of the cities of Quebec and Montreal, — 3 burgesses, viz., 2 for the town of Thn-c Rivers, and 1 for William Henry, and the remaining number divided over the province as knights of the shire, representing 20 counties, into which Lower Cauiul.'i was divided. Pc^iidation was partly made the basis for regulating the division ; thus a small and thickly-peopled territory ou the bnnks of the St. Lawrence was found suf- ficient to form a county, and in the more 1^ ,1 •h ...1 'r lit \iW' 118 SEPARATE LEGISLATURE OF THE PROVINCES, distant parts, large areas were included in one county, in order to obtain the amount of population necessary to a representative election. The unsatisfactory manner in which this division into 21 counties operated, from its having regard to population and not to area, was felt after a few years ; and it was set aside by the provincial act of 9 Geo. IV., which subdivided Eastern Canada into 40 counties. The constitution of the East- ern province as then regulated, may be thus summarily stated. The authority of the sovereign in Canada was limited solely by the laws of Great Britain, and by the capitulations of the province. The supreme legislative authority was vested in the crown and in the two houses of the Imperial Parliament: this authority being limited by the capitulations, and by its own acts; the most remarkable of which is the act 18 Geo. III. cap. 13, confirmed by 31st Geo. III. cap. 13, which declares that " no taxes shall be imposed on the colonies but for the regulation of trade, and that the proceeds of such taxes shall be appUed to, and for the use of the province, in such manner as shall be directed by any law or laws which may be made by his majesty, his heirs or successors, by and with the advice and consent of the Legislative Council and Assembly of the province." The Provincial Legislature consisted of the sovereign, acting by the governor-gen- eral of the province ; of a Legislative Coun- cil of 31 members, appointed by the crown for life; of a House of Assembly, of 88 members, elected for 4 years by British subjects resident within the province, under a ibs. tenure. The constituency of Eastern Canada was very widely diffused — among half a million of people there were at least 80,000 electors, of whom nine-tenths were proprietors of the soil ; several counties had from 4 to 5,000 electors, all of whom were landed proprietors. The total number of proprietors of real property in 1831, was 57,891 ; and of persons holding property not otherwise than real, 25,208. No religious disabilities existed as to elec- tors ; but clergymen or Jews were not eligi- ble as representatives. The Assembly was empowered to make laws for the peace, wel- fare, and good government of the province, such laws not being inconsistent with the Act of 31 Geo. III., cap. 81. The elections were and still are conducted by open voting. The governor, in the name of the sove- reign, assembled, prorogued, and dissolved the Parliament, which by the law was con- vened once in every twelve calendar months. All questions arising in either of the two houses, were decided by the open voting of the majority of the members present. Tl.e governor gave, withheld, or reserved for the further signification of the pleasure of the sovereign, the royal sanction to bills proposed by the two other branches. Laws assented to by the governor-general, must be disallowed by the crown within two years. The crown could not assent to any act or acts affecting the dues of the clergy of the church of Rome, or the established church of England within the province, or the provisions made for the same, or the enjoyment or exercise of any religious form or mode of worship, or creating penalties, burthens, disabilities, or disquahfications on that account, or grant- ing, or imposing any new dues in favour of any ministers of any former mode of wor- ship, or aflecting the prerogative, touching the granting of the waste lands of the crown; until such acts shall have been at least 30 days before both Houses of the British Parliament, without either of the houses having addressed his majesty pray- ing him not to sanction the same. In Western or Upper Canada, the govern- ment had been administered since 1791 by a lieutenant-governor, Executive and Legisla- tive Councils, and a House of Assembly or Representatives, under regulations similar to those in Eastern Canada. The Executive Council consisted of six members chosen by the crown. When the rebellion broke out in Eastern Canada, in 1837, the Sovereign and Parlia- ment of England, by virtue of its authority, suspended the constitution of the province, (as stated in the history of the colony, p. 30), and the re-union of Eastern and Western Canada having been agreed to by the Parliament of Western Canada, and by the Council of Eastern Canada, Lord Sydenham framed the act of union, which was adopted by the Imperial Legijlature. Under the provisions of that act the affairs of the colony are now conducted ; and the executive j,athorities arc subject to the re- gulations laid down by Lord John Russell in October 1839 — as strted at pages 39, 40 — by which "resp-- j ic" or constitu- tioniil government has been fully granted to Canada. The act of union (c. xxxv., 3 and 4 Vic., 23rd of July, 1810), recites that for the good government )f the pro- vinces fo' securing the rights ai'd liberties CONSTITUTION OF CANADIAN LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 119 of ail classes of her majesty's subjects, it was necessary to re-unite the two provinces and form one province, for the piu^ose of executive government and legislation ; such union to be declared by proclamation under the advice of her majesty's Privy Council. Various previous acts of Parliament were repealed, and the legislature of the United province was in future to be formed of one Legislative Council and one Assembly. The Legislative Council to consist of not fewer than 20 persons, of 21 years of age, subjects of the crown, and summoned for life by the governor-general, under authority of the sign manual of the sovereign. Such legislative councillor may resign, but if he absent himself from two successive sessions of the legislature of the province, " without the permission of her majesty, or of the governor of the said province, signified by the said governor to the Legislative Council, or shaH take any oath or make any declara- tion or acknowledgment of allegiance, obe- dience, or adherence to any foreign prince or power, or shall do, concur in, or adopt any act whereby he may become a subject or citizen of any foreign state or power, or whereby he may become entitled to the rights, privileges, or immunities of a subject or citizen of any foreign state or power, or shall become bankrupt, or take the benefit of any law relating to insolvent debtors, or become a public defaulter, or be attainted of treason, or be convicted of felony, or of any infamous crime, his scat in such council shall thereby become vacant." Any question arising respecting vacan- cies in the Legislative Council of the pro- vince of Canada, occasioned by any of the matters aforesaid, must be refen-ed by the governor to the Legislative Council, to be by the said Legislative Council heard and determined, but the person respecting whose seat such question shall have arisen, or her majesty's attorney-general for the said pro- vince on her majesty's behalf, may appeal from the determination of the said Coimcil in such case to her majesty, and the judgment of her majesty given with the ad\iec of her Privy Council thereon shall be final and con- clusive to all intents and purposes. The governor has authority from time to time, by an instrument under the great seal of the said province, to appoint one member of the Legislative Council to be speaker thereof, and to remove him, and appoint another in his stead. The presence of at leas I, ten members of the said Legislative Council, including the speaker, is necessary to constitute a meeting for the exercise of its powers ; and all ques- tions are decided by a majority of voices of the members present except the speaker; when the voices are equal the speaker has the casting vote. For the purpose of constituting the Legis- lative .' osembly of the province of Canada, the governor, from time to time, as occasion may require, in her majesty's name, and by an instrument or instruments under the great seal of the said province, has power to summon and call together a Legislative Assembly in and for the said province. The qualification for voters is property to the yearly value of 40«. in the counties; of £5 in the towns, or paying rent to the amount of £10, annually. In Western Canada 41 electoral districts, containing 723,087 inhabitants, return 42 members to the House of Assembly; the city of Toronto sends two members ; the cities of Hamilton and Kingston, each one, and the towns of London, Cornwall, Bytown, Niagara, and Brockville, each one member. The North, South, East, and West Ridings of York re- turn each one member; each of the other counties of the province are represented by one member. In Eastern Canada, 768,33 1 inhabitants return 42 members to the House of Assembly, from 40 electoral districts. Montreal and Quebec return each two members, the towns of Three Rivers and Sherbrooke, each one, and every cuimty one member. The ; .. .)i erty qualification of a represen- tative IS ae possession for his own use of j£500, in lands or tenements, over and above all rents, charges, mortgages, and incum- brances. The Assembly is convened for a term of 4 years, aiid must be called together ince in each year; 20 members consti- tute a quorum, and the Assembly chooses its own sp(!akei, wlio luis a casting vote. By the act of union it is declared "that within the pro\ince of Canada, her majesty shall liave power, by and with the advice and consent of the said Legislative Council and Assembly, to make laws for the peace, wel- fare, and good government of the j)rovince of Canada, such laws not being repugnant to this act, or to such parts of the said act passed in the thirty-first year of the reign of his said late Majesty as are not hereby re- pea'cd, or to any act of Parliaraent made or to be made, and not hereby repealed, which does or shall, by express enact- 130 CONSTITUTION OP CANADIAN HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY, ment or by necessary intendment, extend to the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, or to either of them, or to the pro- vince of Canada; and that all such laws being passed by the said Legislative Council and Assembly, and assented to by her ma- jesty, or assented to in her majesty's name by the governor of the province of Canada, shall be valid and binding to all intents and purposes within the province of Canada." 'the members of the House of Assembly, are allowed by grants of the legislature, an indemnity of 10«. currency per diem, and 4f. per league as travelling expenses from their places of residence, to where the sittings of the legislature are held. The session of Parliament generally lasts three months, seldom more than four, and is held during the winter. The salary of the speaker of the House of Assembly is j6900, voted annually by the Provisionid Legislature. The Legislative Council at present con- sists of about 45 members, of whom 12 were added bv Lord Elgin, 6 by Lord Met- calfe, 5 by Sir C. Bagot, and ihe others Qominated by Lord Sydenham. The crown has an unlimited power of nomination. Nearly half the Legislative Council consists of gentlemen of French origin. The Execu- tive Council comprises 11 ministerial offi- cers — including two secretaries, and two attorneys and solicitors-general for Eastern and for Western Canada — a receiver-general, inspector-general, president of committees, and commissioner of crown lands, and speaker, all appointed by the governor, but who must be possessed of seats in the House of Assembly in order to make them respon- sible to the people, and produce harmony between the executive and the legislature. The governor of Canada is governor-gene- ral of all the British possessions in North America, and commander-in-chief of all the forces there, but in the latter capacity he only acts ministerially. Governors of Canada. 1663. Sieur de Mfisy. 1665. Sieur de Courcelles. ] 672. Sieur de Frontcnac. 1682. Sieur de la Ba;-re. 168(5. Marquis de Uenonville. 1689. Sieur de Frontcnac. 1699. Chevalier de Callidres. 1 703. Marquis de Vauiireuil. _ 1726. Marquis de Beauhamois. 1747. Comte de la Oalissonitre. 1710. Bieur de la Jonquiire. 1762. Marquis du Queene de Mcnnevillc. 1755. Sieur de Vaudreuil de Cavagnni. 1 761. James Murray. 1766, Faulus Emilius Irving (President) General Guy Carleton. 770. Hector T. Cramahfe (President). 774. General Guy Carleton. 778. Frederick Haldimand. 774. Henry Hamilton (Lieutenant-GoTemor). 77fi. Henry Hope (Lieutenant-Governor). 776. Lord Dorchester ^Sir Guy Corleton). 791. Colonel Clarke (Lieutenant-Governor). 793. Lord Dorchester 796. Robert Prescott 799. Sir R. 8. Milnes, Bart (Lieutenant-Governor). 805. Hon. Thomas Dunn (President). 807. SirJi. H.Craig, K.B. 811. Hon. Thomas Dunn (President). - Sir George Pievost. 815. Sir G. Drummond, G.C.B (Administrator). 816. John Wilson (Administrator). Sir J. C. Sherbrooke. 818. Duke of Richmond. 819. Hon. James Monk (President). 820. Sir Peregrine Maitland. ■ Earl Dalhousie, G.C.B. 824. Sii' F. N. Burton (Lieutenant-Governor). 825. Earl Dalhousie. 828. Sir James Kempt, G.C.B. (Administrator). 830. Lord Alymer. G.C.B. (Administrator). 836. Earl of Gosfnrd. 838, Major- General Sir John Colborne (Adminis- trator). Earl o:' Durham (six months). Major- General Sir John Colborne (Adminis- trate ir. 1839. Right Hon. P, Thomson (afterwards Lord Sydenham). Provinces United. 1841. Lord Sydenham. Major-General Sir R. Jackson (Administrator). 1842. Sir Charles Bagot. 1843. Sir Charles (afterwards Baron) Metcalfe. 1845. Earl Cathcart. 1847. Earl of Elgin and Kincardine. Lieutenant- Governors of U^iper or Western Canada. 1792. Colonel Simcoe. 1796. Hon. Peter Russell (President), 1799. Lieut.-Gen. Peter Hunter. 1806. Hon. A. Grant (President). 1806. Franois Gore. 1811. Major-Gen. Sir Isaac Brock (President), 1812. Major-Gen. Sir R. H. Sheaffe, Bart. (Presi- dent). 1813. Maj.-Gen. F, Baron deRottcnbcrg (President). Lieut.-Gen. Sir Gordon Drummond, K.C.P. 1816. Lieut.-Gen. Sir George Murray, Bart. Major-Gen. Sir F. P. Robinson, K.C.B. Francis Gore. 1817. Hon. Samuel Smith (Administrator). 1818. Major-Gen. Sir Peregrine Maitland. 1820. Hon. Samuel Smith (Administrator). Major-Gen. Sir Peregrine Maitland. 1828. Maior-Oen. Sir John Colborne. 1838. Sir'F. B. Head. 1838. Major-Gen. Sir G. Arthur. The Laws now in force in Eastern or Lower Canada are: — 1st. The acts of the British Parliament wliich extend to the colonies : 2nd. Capitulations and treaties : 3rd. Tlie laws and customs of Canada, wPresi- lidenrt. Ic.p. Irn or \i tlie the tatics : kuada, LAWS, COURTS, AND LAWYERS IN CANADA. 121 foxmded principally on the jurisprudence of the Pariiament of Paris, as it stood in 1663, the edicts of the French kings, and their colonial authorities, and the Roman oivil law : 4th. The criminal law of England, as it stood in 1774, and as explained by subi'c- quent statutes : 5th. The ordinances of the governor and coimcO, established by the act of the above year : 6th. The acts of the Provincial Legislature since 1792. These laws are executed in her majesty's name, and in virtue of her commission and instruc- tions, by the governor, or person adminis- tering the government, through the agency of several inferior officers, all of whom are appointed during pleasure. The governor besides possesses all other powers and pre- rogatives generally, which her majesty may legally enjoy, and may delegate to him. The judiciary coflsists of a High Court of Appeal, a Court of Queen's Bench in Eas- tern and Western Canada, presided over by a chief justice in each province, and several puisne justices. There are provincial courts for trials of causes above iBlO. There are also a Court of Vice-Admiralty, Quarter Sessions, and other minor tribunals for civil matters. The Court of Appril, the highest hgal tribunal in the province, con- sists of tue governor, president ex officio, the chief justices of the province, all the members of the Executive Council, five of whom, including the president, arc a com- petent quorum to hear and determine appeals from judgment pronounced in the Court of Queen's Bench in civil matters. Should the matter in dispute exceed £500 in value, an appeal lies to tlic queen and Privy Council; if below that sum, the de- cision'of the Canadian High Court of Appeal is final. The Canadian Court of Queen's Bench combines a jui'isdictioii similar to those of the Queen's Bench and Coramou Pleas at Westminster; it has distinct civil and cri- minal terms, and an appellate as well as an original jurisdiction; appf»Is lying, in cer- tain cases, from the decisions of the pro- \incial judges, or inferior courts, over each of which a puisne judge presides. The duties of the Vice-Admiralty Court devolve, by commission, on a Judge Surro- gate, who is also a judge of the Court of Queen's Bench. The Court of Escheats was created by the 10th sec. 6 Geo. II. c. 69; it consists cf Commissioners appointed by the governor to inquii-e, on information being filed by the VOL. I. attorney-general, into the liability of lands to be escheated, by reason of the non-per- formance of the conditions on which they were granted The decision is given by a verdict of & jury composed of twelve men, summoned in the usual wajr ; and the lands forfeited become re-vested m the Crown. The other courts being similarly consti- tuted to thorse of the same name in England, require no explanation. The police of the country is supervised by unpaid justices of the peace (the members of the Executive and Legislative Councils, the judges, &c., are everywhere justices of the peace ex officio). Trial by jury is universal in all criminal cases; but in civil matters the appeal to this mode of trial in Eastern Canada is confined by statute to certain cases, viz., the demand must exceed £10, the parties being merchants or traders, and the subject matter grounded on debts, pro- mises, contracts, and agreements, of a mer- cantile nature only ; or else the action must arise from personal wrongs, to be compen- sated in damages; in all other caiises the Bench are judges both upon the law and the fact ; a very small portioi? of these cases are tried by jury. Tlie criminal law of Canada is in general conformity to that of England, with some provincial statutes not repugnant thereto. The admiralty and commercial laws are also English. In the civil law the proceedings are carried on both in the French and English languages, and it is iiot unusual to have half the jury French aud the other half English. Litigation is frequent; there are about 200 lawyers in Eastern Canada on the rolls of the Court of Queen's Bench, who are solicitors and proctors as well as barristers ; the notaries are conveyancers in Eastern Canada, and form a distinct class ; they arc about 300 in number. In the Quebec dis- trict alone there are 45 barristers, 43 solici- citors, and 138 notaries. In Montreal district — 26 barristers, 60 soUcitors, and 164 notaries. In Three Rivers district — 72; making a total of 358 lawyers. In Western Canada the laws are whollv English, and administered by a Court of Queen's Bench, presided over by a chief and 6 puisne judges. The Courts of Quarter Ses- sion and Requests are held as in England. There arc about 500 unpaid magistrates. yVie judicial establishment consists, in Eastern Canada, of a Chief Justice of a Court of Queen's Bench at Quebec^ and 3 if 1 122 OIIJI'UITIONS TO CONVENTIONS OR LEAGUES. t; . h Puisn^ Jud^oi j n Re»i(!pnt Jtulgo at Three RiverB ; a Provinplftl Judgo nt St. Francis ; and 2 Diatriot Ju(l|(Ol lit Goapd. Tlierc ia also a Vice-Admlratty Tourt, \i itli a Judge and Regiitrar. Jn Weotern Conada the judicial eBtabliahiDfiiit oonnints of a Chief Justice and 4 Puldiid of n Court of Queen's Bench j a Vice-CImufloUor and Registrar of a Coart of dhanoerv j rwid a Court of Pro- bate. There are Circuit Courts in Eastern Canada, and Diitrlst Courts in Western Canada. In Western Cnnadn there are 4 Commissioners of Uankrupts, independent of the District Judges ) iit Eastern Canada the Judges ippoint Bankrupt Commissioners from barristers of (lv« years' stonding, or the District Judgei l\lifll the duty of Com- missioners. Municipal TntUtuthm nf Canada — It has been truly romarktMl, tlint "a more complete mimicipal system thnn that lu operation in this province, has njivt'r been established. The powers conferred on caoh district are very great, but have b«H)n always exercised mth discretion, 'J'lie system was established by Lord Sydonham, to remove from the im- perial and the pruvinelnl governments the odium which fVemiejitly nttnchcd to them, in consequence o( tlio legislation and appro- ? nations which aflluttdd piirtlcular localities, 'he corporations are ooinposod of members from each township, so many townships forming a distriet. Theso form a council, presided over by n wnrdon appointed by the crown. They meet qunrtrrly in the respec- tive court-houses of emih district, and deter- mine on all local iuiprovementg, roads, harbours, bridges, schools, paving, lighting, cleansing, &c. The vote for township councillor is every iiouseholder, and the qualification of a eoutteiUor is real estate value d6;500. The improvements in the res- pective districts that have been effected since their establisliinetit ore quite sur- jjrising. Their p(iwt*r» are great, but in no one instance have they been abused. It is in miniature the operntion of the govern- ment of the rosppdtivo States of North America, forming the general government of thii United States of America, The (lanadians enjov in its fullest extent the blessing of a nonntitutlonal government; they have entire control over their own revenut", au.? nifty eiiiu't whatever laws are required for 'vhyfr country, provided only that sueh laws he not injurious to other parts of the empire, Let tlien the people of tVeatern as well ns of iiustcra Canada avoid all measures and proceedings calcu- lated to diminish the authority and govern- ment that has sprung from themselves, and abstain from forming associations, whether under the title of "convention," "league," or any other name, whose tendency is to control the provincial legislature. Tliey would do well to remember and act on the advice of a truly great man, George Wash- ington, who, in his parting address to his countrymen, on the 17th of September, 1796, when declining to be again elected president of the United States republic, ad- verted to the obedience owed by every indi- vidual to the established government, which they had contributed to form, thus em- phatically warned the Americana against "conventions," and stated their results as testified in '• lie history of all nations : — " AU nbslrimtionB to the exedution of the laws, all combinations AND AbsoCIATIONS, under whatever platuible character, with the real character to DIRECT, CONTROL, COUNTERACT or ft '; the REOULAH DELIIIKR- ATION anrf ACTION o/^/jetOi.STITDTED AUTHORITIES, are destbuctivb oJ this fundamentai. principle, and of fatal TFJ«DE;fCY. They serve to organise faction, to /i'to ii an artificial and extraordinanj force 1 to ptii tK the place of the delegated will of the nation, thi mil of a pari;/, often a small, but artful and ENTERPRISING MINORITY OF THE COMMUNITY ; and, according to the alternate triumphs of different parties, to malce the public administration the mirror of the ill-concerted and incongniotis projects of faction, rather than the organ of consistent and wholesome plans, digested by common counsels, and modified by mutual tnterests. " However combinations and associatlor . of the above description mau now and then ansi . :v)pular ends, they are likely, m the course of time and things, to become patent engines, by which cunning, am- bitious AND UNPRINCIPLED MEN WILL BE ENABLED TO SUBVERT THE POWER OF THE PEOPLE, AND TO USURP FOR THEMSELVES THE REINS OF GOVERN- MENT; destroying afterwards the very engine^, which have lifted them to unjust dominion^ Laws of the Feudal Tenures. — When Canada was first settled by tie French, the feudal tenure was in full vigour on the con- tinent of Europe, and was naturally trans- planted by the colonizers to the new world. The king of France, as feudal lord, granted to nobles and respectable famihes, or to officers of the army, large tracts of land, termed seignones, the proprietors of which were and still are termed seignors; these possessions are held immediately from the Sovereign, en fief, or en roture, on condition of the proprietor rendering fealty and hom- age, on accession to seignorial property; and in the event of a transfer, by sale, or gift, or otherwise (except in hereditary suc- cession), the sciguory is subject to the pay- li\i ! laws, «W «>7iatei-«r DIRECT, DKLIBKR- U0K1TIE8, principle, organise raordinanj will of the rut ARTFCL MMtJNITY ; a/ different the mirror of faction, wholetome lijlfd by ■f the land thinij', )ning, am- en abled Le, and to ! OOVERN- ]ine\- which -When Icnch, the Ithe con- lly trans- fcw world. \, granted les, or to of land, I of which I \.g ; these [from the | I condition Vnd hem- 1 Iproperty ; jy sale, or |itary suc- the pay- , LAWS AND CUSTOMS OP FEUDAL TENURE. 123 raent of a quint, or fifth nart of the whole purchase-money, which, ir paid by the pur- chaser immediately, entitles him to the rabal, or a reduction of two-thirds of the quint. Quints are a fifth part of the jiurchosc- monejr of an estate held en fief, which must be paid bv the purchaser to the feudal lord, that is, tne sovereign. If the feudal lord believes the fief to bo sold under value, ho can take the estate to liimsclf, by paying the purchaser the price he gave for it, to- gether with all reasonable expenses. The committee of the House of Commons in their Report on the aifairs of Canada, in 1828, recommended the crown to relinquish the quints. Reliefe is the rent or revenue of one year for mutation fine, when an e»' ale is inherited only by collateral descent. Loda et rentes a.-e fines of alienation of one-twelfth part of the purchase-money paid to the seigneur by the purchaser on the transfer of property, in the same manner us quints are paid to the sovereign on the mutation oifief; and are held en roture, which is an estate to which heirs succeed coually. Franc aleu noble is a fief, or freehold estate, held subject to no seignorial rights or duties, and acknowledging no lord but the sovereign. The succession to fiefs is dificrcnt from that of property held en roture or by villainage. The eldest son, by right, takes the eiiatfiati, and the yard adjoining it ; an arpvut of the garden which joins the manor-hoiise, and the mills, ovens, or presses, within the seiguory, belong to himj but the profit arising flora these is to be divided among the other heirs. Females have no prece- dence of right, and when there ore only daughters, the fief is equally divided among them. When there are only two sons, the eldest takes two-thirds of the lands, besides the chateau, mill, &e., and the younger 6ne- third. When there are several sons, the elder claims half the lands, and tiio rest have the other half divided among them. Censive is an estate hold in the feudal man- ner, subject to the seignorial fines or dues. All the Canadian habitana, small farmers, are censitaires. Property, according to tiio laws of Canada, is cither propre, that is held by descent, or acquits, which expresses being acquired by industry or other moans. Com- munaut^ du bien is partnership in property by marriafrie ; for the wife, by this law, Ijccomes an equal partner in whatever the husbaud possessed before, and acquires after, mar- riage, and the husband is i)laepd in the same position in respect to the wife's dowry. This law might operate as well as most general laws do, if both mart and femme died on the same day ; but as that is seldom the case very unhappy consequences have arisen from it. For instance, when the wife dies before the husbaud, the children may claim half of the father's property, as heirs to the mother; and the mother's re- lations have often persuaded, and sometimes compelled them so to do. The dot or dowry, is the property which the wife puts into the communaut^ du bien : movable or immovable property, falling to her by descent, is a propre, and does not merge in the communaut4. Dower in Canada is either customary or stipulate. The first oousisto of half the property which the hus- band wus possessed of at the time of mar- riage, and half of all the property which he may inherit or acquire — of this the wife has the use for life, and the children may claim it at her death. If they be not of age, the wife's relations, as guardians of the children, can take it out of the father's hands, and may compel him to sell his property to make a division. Stipulated dower is a portion which the husband gives instead of the customary dower. The Canadian farms are remarkable for the small breadth of the farm on the bank of the river, and its great depth inland; the latter being often in proportion to the former as 60 to 1, namely, half an arpent broad in front of the St. Lawrence, or other river, and 30 arpents in depth. Tliose farmers who hold land from the seigneur en route, and who are termed tenanciers or censitaires arc subject to certain conditions, viz., a small annual rent, from 2s. 6d. to 5». (or perhaps more of late 5'ears) for each arpent in front ; to this are added some articles of provision annually — such aa a pig or goose, or a few fowls, or a bushel of wheat, according to the means of the far- mer, who is also bound to grind his com at the moulin banal, or the seigneur^s mill, wiiere one-fourteenth is taken for the lord's nn(!, as mouture or payment for grinding. The lods et ventes form another part of the seigneur's revenue : it consists of a right to one-twelfth part of the purchase-money of every estate within his seignory, that changes its owner by sale, or other means equivalent to sale ; this twelfth to be paid by the purchaser is excluiive of the sum agreed on between him and the seller, and if promptly paid, a reduction of one-fourth is usually made, in the same manner aa }ym 1 I : If 134 DUTIES AND RIGHTS OF SEIGNIORS IN CANADA. two-thirdii of the guinta due to the crown ore deducted on prompt payment. Ou such an ocennion n privilege rcmairiK with the •cigiieur, but is nchUjin exercised, called the droll de relraU, whi<'li confers the riglit of pre-emption iit the highest price oflVred, within 10 days oft«r the sale has taken place. All the fiidicries within the seignories contribute aluo to the lord's income, as he receive! a shnre of the fish caught, or an etpiivolent in money : the seigneur is aLo nrivilegcd to fell timber any wh'^rc within iii« ncignory, for the purpose if recting milU, constructing new or repairing old roadM, or for other works of public and gen- eral utility. In addition to the foregoing burdens on the farmer, ho is, if a Roman Catholic, bound to pay to his curate one twenty-sixth part of all grain produced, and to have ocensional assessments levied on him for building and repairing churches, parNonngc bouses, &e. The duties of the seigneur to his tenants arc uIro strictly defined — he is bound in some inntnneeg to open roads to the remote parts of his fief, and to provide mills for the griiulinff of the feudal tenants' com — he cannot dispose by sale of forest lands, but is bound to concede them; and upon his rcfiiujl to do so, the applicant may ob- tain from the crown the concession he re- quires, under the usual seignorial stipula- lations, in which c»se the rents and dues appertain to the sovereign. According to the Contume de Paris, the " Fronc aleu /oturier est terre sans justice ou soigncurio pour laquelle le detenteur ne doit cens, rentes, lods et ventes, ui autrcs redcvanccs;" ond the soccage tenure, like franc uleu roturier, leaves the farmer or landholder wholly unshackled by any con- ditions whatsoever, as to rents, eorvees, mutation fines, banak-te (com grinding obli- gation), without in fact any other obligation than allegiance to the soviireign, and obe- dience to the laws. The quantity of land thus granted in Eastern Canada amounts to upwards of 7,00(),(K)0 acres — while under the seignorial grants nearly 11,000,000 acres are ludd by a large number of small pro- prieton. The nritish government have long been desirous of converting the seignorial into Hoeeugo tenures, but nothing compulsory has been attempted. In 1825 an act was passed ((1 Geo. IV. c. lix.) for the gradual extinction of the feudal rights, and enabling seigneurs to release themselves from the feudal burthens {ec, £1000. The Church of England in Eastern Canada receives £3,020. The total charge for the ecclesiastical establishment of Can- ada for 1847, was £13,725 ; of this sum, £3,620 for the bishop and ministers of the Church of England in Eastern Canada, is paid from the military chest, and ceases with the lives of the present parties. The stipend of £1000 a year to the Roman catholic bishop of Quebec, and £100 a year to the presbyterian minister at Argenteuil, are paid from the military chest. EuucATioN. — Laudable and energetic efforts are now making in Canada, for the education of the people, in Western Canada especially. A new school act was brought into operation in 1847, and the returns under it are yet imperfect for 1847, but the follow- ing details are taken from the report of Mr. E. Ryerson, the chief superintendent of schools : — School Sections, are the smallest mutuci- pal school divisions provided for by law, each consisting of such a section of the country as is considered suitable for a school. In each section three persons arc elected trustees by the householders, and constitute a corporation for the management of the common school affairs of such section. One of the members of the school corpora- tion retires from office each year, so that each trustee is elected for three years. Oi such schools in Western Canada, there arc 2727; from 327 sections, no returns received; number of qualified teachers, 2812 ; number of teachers without certificates, 216. Of 3028 teachers, 2356 were males, and 663 females. Average yearly salaries of teachers £37; number of pupils in the section 'j.?^.:-=^!fti(S*w.».vait' EDUCATION IN EASTERN AND WESTERN CANADA. 127 jf the for a |u8 arc and tement lection. l)rpora- |o that Oi achoolii 124,820, of whom 65,575 were boys, and " ,251 girls. TJpwards of 2'.)5 different authors, or text books arc in use in these schools, viz., in spelling 1,S j reading 107 ; arithni(Hc 35; geography 20; history 21; grammar 16; natural philosophy 7; chem- istry 5 ; geometry 2 ; mental philosophy 3 ; rhetoric 3 ; book-keeping 5 ; botany 2 ; algebra 2 ; natural history 1 ; physiolog 2 ; composition 1; penmanship 4; moral phi- losophy 2; 8urve)ring 3; mensir '.tion 2; declamation 2 ; dictionaries 4; &< Book-keeping is taught in 5X mensuration in 294; algebra in mcntE of natural philosophy in and Greek in 41; and French in (j 41,686 pupils study arithmetic, English grammar ; 10,563 geography ; 45,467 writing. The bible and testament are used in 1782 schools, — nearly two- thirds of the common-schools in Upper Canada. Of 2572 school-houses, 49 are brick, 84 stone, 1028 frame, and 1399 log : 1403 schools are freehold, 697 leased, and 171 rented : 699 are in good repair, 817 in ordinary, 347 in a bad condition: 1705 have only one room, 98 more than one room: 1 125 are suitably furnished with desks, seats, &c. The total amount of council as- sessment for 1847, was £22,955 ; collected by trustees' rate-bills £30,543; legislative gi-ant £21,000. The total amount of money •ierived fipom all sources, and expended for the payment of salaries of common school teachers, for 1847, was £77,599. This does not include the moneys expended for the erection, repairs, furnishing, and warming of school-houses, &c. Upper Canada expends of the public moneys, for the common school education of little more than half a million of people, as much as is spent in Ireland for eight million of people. In Western Canada there are 48 colleges, academics, and high schools. The "Blue Book" for 1847 states the number of school sections for that year, in Western Canada, at 2925 ; schools reported 2589 ; children between 5 and 16 taught, 101,912. Legis- lative school grant £20,851 ; amount asses- sed by municipal council £21,871. Paid teachers from school fund £38,521 ; from rate-bill £29,385; total £67,906. In Eastern Canada the number of schools under the control of the commissioners for six months, in 1847, was 1611, and there were 21 dissentient; number of children educated 60,685 The allowances for six months were £14,500. The schools are dis- tributed over 36 counties in Eastern Canada. There are 65 colleges, academics, and high schools. The votes and grants for education, in 1847, were, in Eastern Canada, €38,888, of which the Jesuit estates yielded £4567. The amount of £32,978 was voted bv the legislature for common schools, and £1352 for different colleges in Eastern Canada. The educational votes for 1847, by the Canadian legislature, for Western Canada, amounted to £28,845, of which £23,270 was for common schools. he lands granted to the Jesuits by the ich government, and which lapsed to British crown on the demise of the last the Jesuits, in 1800, have been granted !i>r purposes of Education. Under a very had system of management, these lands did not yield from 1800 to 1831, more than £50,000. According to a return of the institutions for the instruction of youth in Eastern Canada, it appears that there are the follow- ing school foundations : — " Protestant.— I. Royal Grammar School, Quc- becj 200/. a year, and QOl. a year schonl-house lent, from Jesuits' estates. Twenty free scholars, 11 pay for their tuition; all day-scnolars. Terms: under 19, £8; above 12 and under 13, £10 per an.; above 13, £12 per an. French and English taught; course of instruction as in the grammar schools in the United Kingdom. " 2. Royal Grammar School, Montreal; £200 a year, and £54 a year school-house rent, from Jesuits' estates. Twenty free scholars admitted, 16 scholars pay for their education: all day scholars. Terms: highest £10; lowest £8 per an.; instruction as in grammar-school at Quebec; and this school is in pos- session of an extensive apparatus for experiments in natural philosophy. " 3. Seminary at Chambly ; contributions of stu- dents; a private institution lately established under the patronage of the Lord Bishop of Quebec. Board and tuition according to age of student, £40, £50, and £75 per an.; day-scholars £15 and £20 per an. There ore 17 boarders and day-scholars. Those who pay £76 per an. are young men studying for holy oi'lers, and others finishing their education. "Catholic. — 1. Seminary of Quebec; no reve- nues specifically appropriated to the purposes of education, but possessed of several estates. Value, made many years ago, commuted at £1,249 a year, be- sides large contributions in grain, and the lo et venUt on mutations of property, which amount to a considerable sum. Attended by 188 students ; the terms for tuition and board £17 :10s. per an.; for tuition only, £1 per an. Poor children instructed gratis. The Seminary of Quebec was erected by letters patent of the French crown, dated in April, 1663. " 2. Seminary at Montreal; in possession of es- tates valued many years a^o at about £2,000 a year, besides large contributions in grain, and lodi et ventei on mutations of property, which in the seignory oi iV !l i 'I 11^ hi J? i,'.' i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^/ ^ /1%^ % 1.0 I.I .50 ""^ 2.5 1^ mil 2.2 ^ m ■ lis 10 11.25 i 1.4 1.8 1.6 V 'Z Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 128 STATE OF CRIME IN EASTERN AND WESTERN CANADA. MontTMd, compraliMiding the whole of the town, muft amount to a large mini. Attended by 260 ttu- denta; twma for board and tuition, per an. £21, for tuition onljr, £1 : IS*. Initnetion aa at the Seminary of Quebec. The eooleaiattics of St Sulpice, at Parii, were authoriMd to eatabliih a aeminary at Montreal, and allowed to hold the iaUnd of Montreal in mort- main, by lattera patent of tiie French crown, dated in May, 1677. "Seminary at NIcoleti lupported principally by private contributiona. liie number of ituoents, or the mice paid fbr tuition not known. *• Beminariee at St Hvaeinthe, at Chambly, and at College of St Ann, whicn laoeive legislatiTe grants" In aereral of tiie colleges there ore pro- feaaon of divinity, medicine, anatomy, phi- loBopIiT, mathematics, frc, and the chain are ably filled. There is a Quebec literary and historical society, and a museum of natural history at Montreal ; a medico^hirurgical society, an agricultural association, a mechanic's msti- tute, &c. Thi Fbbss. — ^This powerfid adjunct of civilization, and protector of individual as well as of national liberty, is making rapid progress in Canada; where the journals are unstamped, the paper without an excisable duty, and the advertisements exempt from tax. I have no s^arate return of the in- crease of the press m each province, but in both together, the number of newspapers was, in 1827, 17; in 1828, 20; in 1829, 27; in 1880, SO; and in 1831, 87. I think I may add tiiat the present number is about 50, namely 20 for Eastern and 30 for Western Canada. There are several daily papers; some of the journals in Eastern Canada are entirely in the French language. Both the English and French papers are conducted with ability, but, aa may be ex- pected, evince strong party feelings. They are well supplied with advertisements, and, independent of their value as political engines, are considered good commercial speculations. CaiME. — ^The absence of extreme poverty, the certain reward of industry, and the ex- tension of Christian education, are sure pre- ventives of crime. From 1828 to 1838, the number of prisoners in the gaols of Eastern Canada, for all oflfences throughout the year, did not average 300 persons annually. The returns to the Board of Registration and Statistics for Eastern and Western Canada, in 1849, shows the state of crime from 1841, to 1847, inclusive. The returns are not very complete, but they show a limited amount of crime in a population of one and a half million. 1841 1842 1843 1844 1848 16461847 Offenen igainit the Penon ... Hnrdw . . . UirilaagLtn B«p« . . 4 I a a 6 1 29 8 4 a 18 1 8 4 11 a 8 14 8 2 2 12 4 a a OffenoM (giihit Pro- perty . . Potgerjr . . Honw iteiOing . . Felony . . . Buigluy 68 40 1 4 4 a 64 37 8 9 a 101 1 11 6 8 182 81 6 8 11 8 140 92 8 la 6 8 119 68 2 14 4 4 98 62 4 '? 8 UndaMed Crimee. a 1 t 4 6 2 a FromButnii Canada) „ Woetem Canada) 89 J 14 30 106 31 118 82 108 17 88 38 69 Grand Total . » 71 135 149 187 138 107 These returns are exclusive of military ; the total commitments for seven years, end- ing Ist of Octobor, 1847, were 813, of whom 67 or 7 per cent, were women. The average convictions, for crimes against the person, were 10*58 per cent; not docaed, 2*62; for Uuroeny, 54-28; for other cnmes, 32*52. The total number of inquests was 1021, viz., males, 823, females, 191. The number of accidents, on which inquests were held, was 132; lunatics, 20; apoplexy, 28; drowned, 329; burned, 29; intemperance, 81 ; suicide, 32; exposure, 15; eAaustion, 9; found dead, 37; visitation of God, 196; murder, 22 ; child-murder, 5 ; manslaughter, 5 ; poi- soned, 1 ; suffocation, 12 ; stnmgulation, 2 ; shot by accident, 4; sudden death, 9; by lightning, 2. The trials befbre the magis- trates, ia quarter sessions, in 1847, for petty larcenies, assaults, and trespasses were — DUtriota. Quarter Seaaions. Under Troa- paaa Act, Tried. Conrlcted Acquitted No. FInea. Eaxtem Canada Weatem Canada 366 378 244 195 122 180 266 2^26 £396 2,316 Total . . 741 439 302 2,791 £2,712 t penitentiary vhole province been estab- lished for the whole province. Mr. Sheriff Thomas, of the Gore district, who has paid considerable attention to crime in Canada, in a letter of the 9th of March, 1849, says, "I am warranted in laying it down as an incontrovertible fact that crime in this portion of the globe is almost entirely er 'Tendered hy dissolute habits." Drunken- ness appears in all young communities to be a prevailing crime, and there is no prospect of success in our colonies for any class of immigrants, unless they abstain mm thQ abuse of intoxicating liquors. 2;»6 MILITARY DEFENCE; ADVANTAGES OF BRITISH CONNECJTION. 129 MiLiTABT Defence. — ^There is an effec- tive militia in Eastern and Western Canada to the number of about 260,389 men. By the militia Act, every able-bodied malo inhabitant, firom 18 to 60 years of age, afkor aiii month** reaidcnoe, is liable to Marre in the militia, unkM speeUUy exempted by law; the exceptions embrace the clergy, crrU and military oflteCrs of his mt^eetfa goTenunent, phyndana, surgeons, school- masters, stewuds of religions ccHnmimities, students in colkgM and seminaries, notaries, land-surveyors, ferrymen, millers, &c., and persons who had served as officers of militia previous to the act. The officers are ap- pointed by the government; the qualification for those above the rank of captain being a bona fide possession of an estate yieldmg j£50 currency per annum; half the sum qualifies for a captain's or subaltern's com- mission. There is an annual muster by companies (29th June) throughout Eastern Canada. The militia abstract of Eastern Canada for 1847, shows, according to the returns, 86 regiments, consisting of 173 battalions, and 137,769 men. In Western Canada there are 34 regi- ments of militia, comprising 166 battalions and 122,620 men; to this force is attached 1 company of cavalry, 11 of artillery, and 1 of rifles. The whole force of Eastern and Western Canada is 260,389 men. Tbe commissions issued since the reor- ganization of the force, have been:- - Offleen. Lieut-Coloneb Majors . . . Captaina . . Lieutenants . Enaigns . . Stair . . . Eaatem Western Canada, Canada. 176 1S7 237 122 1,431 l.SKU 1,S90 985 1,348 921 439 277 Total. 3S4 2,433 2,673 2,267 716 There is an adjutant-general and a de- puty-general of militia. The regular and provincial troops in Can- ada in 1847, were, royal artillery, officers 35, men 574; royal engineers, 31; 1 batta- lion H.M. 20th, . .. sn 22, men 601; re- served battalion, officers 16, men 527; H.M. 23rd, officers 19, men 575; H.M. 71st, offi- cers 17, men 661; H.M. 77th, officers 23, men 569; H.M. 98rd, officers 16, men 501; 2 battalions rifle brigade, officers 14, men 306; reserved battalion, officers 6, men 268; royal Canadian rifles, officers 60, men 1,669. There was also a part of the qucon's lipht vol. I. dragoons, and the 1st and 2nd troop of the Montreal cavalry. The principal mUitary stations are Quebec, Montreid, St. Helens, Kingston, Toronto, Niagara, London, Isle aux Noix, and Amherstburg. The Cattadiwn naval force, consisted i\i 1847, of 1 steamer of 75 tons, on Lake On- tario, and 3 gun-boats, hauled up: on Lake Erie 1 steam vessel 406 tons; and on Lake Superior 1 steam-vessel of 210 tons, all in commission. Canada possesses ample means within itself for defence against foreign aggression : Quebec has been long deemed impregnable, and is wdl supplied with military stores; Montreal and Kingston are strongly pro- tected; Toronto is secure against surprise; the forts along the frontier are in good order; the naval and military establishment on the bay of Pentanguishene might speedily be rendered effective; the commumcation be- tween Eastern and Western Canada, by the Rideau canal, exempts traffic from border annoyances; and a dense population (men with brave hearts and strong arms) along the St. Lawrence river and the great Lakes, combine, with other circumstances, to secure Canada frY>m the danger of invasion. The Canadians have no extensive sea-board to protect ; no cities on the Atlantic open to assault or pillage; no slaves within their territory ready to burst their bonds and carry slaughter and desolation throughout the land. The conqueror of Canada must first capture Quebec, and possess a navy para- mount on the ocean. It has been admitted that 100,000 troops would not be sufficient for the sulnugation of Eastern and Western Canada. No European nation could, there- fiwe, make the attempt ; and if the Cana- dians are true to themselves, and desire to continue an integral pwtion of the British empire, they need not fear the hostility of the adjacent republic, with whom, however, it is undoubte^y both their duty and their interest to cultivate friendly relations, which it is to be hoped the good feeling of the citizens of the United States, as well as their knowledge of the evils war ever brings with it, especially to a commercial nation, will induce them cordially to recriprocate. By the mutual exercise of a little Christian for- bearance both countries may be spared the harassing anxieties and protracted feuds arising from border hostilities and interne- cine strife, and continue to be distinguished by the rapid progress in civilization which peace only can maintain. s 180 CHAPTER V. INDUSTRIAL STATE OF EASTERN AND WESTERN CANADA. PRODUCTIONS, PROGRESS OF THE PROVINCE, INTERNAL AND IIARITIME COMIIERCE. Thk industrial state, and progressive accu- mulation of property in the proTince, will be seen by an examination of the produce of each district. The returns for Eastern Canada for 1844 and 1848 are very imper- fect, owing to the absence of any census in th^ years. In the year 1831 there was a complete return tram each county; an abstract of which shows the following lead- ing facts : — AgrieuUmvl Produce, Cattle, Mill*, ^e., qfeaeh Diitriet in Eattem Canada in 1831. CilaHifioation. Quebec. Montreal. Three Rireif. Oaipe. Qnnd Total in 1831. Aiea in tqnare mile* Aoret or atpenta of land occupied AeiworanienUafimproTedland Produce raued during the year 1830 : — Minoti of wheat Hinotoofpeai Minoti of oati Minots of barley . Minoti of rye Minots of Indian com Minoti of potatoM MinotiofDuck wheat Neat cattle . . . Honei Sheep , . . Hogi raTtmi or houaem of public entertainment . . . . Storei where ipiritoui liqncn are lold . ... Giiitvilli SawmiUi Oamilla , . Falling milb . . Carding milla . . ^ . . . . . Ironworki ... Trip hammait DiitiUniae. ...... . . . Pot and peart aih iwanulimtoriee . . . Maonftetoria* of any other tatt eontaini\if -shinery . The Reporter of the " Board of Kegistra- tion and Statistics" in Canada, remarlu that the census returns of 1831 bear evidence of hitving been compiled with the greatest care and attention, l/^it the great lapse between that period and 1844, when. the next census was token, renders it very difficult to arrive at any fixed conclusion as to increase. The produce of Eastern Canada is thus stated comparatively for 1831 and 1844 — 127,949 M2,768t 9113871 126321 798,13» 02,742 86,744 481 1395353 8313 104,796 26,213 152382 7431s an 2S1 »4 S48 3 85 39 48 3 4 6 54302 23293541 1,231300} 2,0963824 801,717 I3II36I 27S35U 171362} :81334li 4,221302 68354 229,746 76367 8IO323 174,447 640 483 235 361 9 47 46 87 14 56 462 58 15328 629302t 263,4471 383344} 56300 426,7701 1,4171 48,725 13,739 71<468 89,776 78 112 60 135 8 15 15 32 2 10 136314 18387 10343 920 5320 4383 318 266 629466 237 6,411 677 ^409 6 11 6 206363 3381,793 2366363) 3,404,7561 984,768 3442374) 894,796 234,«66 389333} 10636M 388378 116386 543343 395437 1335 867 896 737 14 97 90 103 18 70 489 64 Produce. Cenitu, 1831. Censua, 1844. Busheli. Bushels. Wheat . .• • . 3,404,756 942,835 Peas , 948,708 1,219,420 OaU , 3,142,274 7,238,763 Barley . . 394,795 1,196,466 Rye . . • 234,529 333,446 Indian Com 339,633 141,008 Potatoes . • 7,367,416 0,918,869 Buckwheat ... 106,050 374,809 This shows a great falling off in the pro- duction of wheat. The produce for 1844, without any deduction of seed, would only furnish 188,667 barrels, or only one barrel for every three inhabitants. The whole produce, in 1844, exclusive of potatoes, was 11,445,727 bushels, and allow- ing that two-thirds of the cultivated lands were under potatos and fallow, it would give an average crop of 12^ bushels per acre Ox all grain for the remainder. In 1831, the same allowance being made, the average crop would be 12^ bushels, while Mr. Bou- chette for 1827 makes it 74f bushels, exclu- sive of 184,659 bushels of mixed grain. The neat cattle in 1844 were, in number, 469,801; horses 140,432; sheep 602,821; swine 197,935. In 1844— Of the 76,440 proprietors of real estate, 15,188 held their lands in " free and common soccage," and the land so held 1 118,086 643,343 296J37 1P35 895 737 14 87 90 103 18 70 48» 64 liuive of [d allow- ed lands fuld give acre o* |831, the average [r. Bou- exdu- ,- grain- I number, )2,8ai; Ketors of [in "free , BO held MANUFACTURES IN EASTERN CANADA. 181 amounted to 1,706,993 acres, of which 640,256 were cultivated. Those held under Indian and other leases comprised 169 per- sons, occupying 25,598 acres, of which only 6,918 acres were under cultivation. HouMt, ifaniffaetoriee, ^., in JSattem Canada in 1831 a.id 1844. - 1831. 1844. In- crease. De- oreaM. Hoiuet inluibited 82,437 108,794 26,367 __ „ building . . 1^408 1,682 194 .. „ TUUt . . 1,«42 44U 2A73 « NcofUTMOfbCM . apiatan. 7^98 __ _ Lbi. of m*pla nigir . — 2,272,467 -» NoofUTenu . . . 1,03S 1,062 17 «. Store* where Uqoon treeold . . . . 8<7 808 ^, 49 Grist nille .... 8SS 422 27 Bun of itonei . . . notglTen. 844 ^_ Oatmeal«ailIi . . . 106 ^^ ^_ Barley „ . . . — 46 — .- Saw .... *M 911 ». — ^ oa „ . . . 14 14 ^ __ FnlUng .... 97 163 66 -. Cardinc „ . . . ThnuUng » . . . 90 not given. 160 469 79 z Paper «... — 8 _ _ Iron worki . . , 103 69 ^ 34 Trip hasuneri . . . Nimibetoriea . . . 18 18 ^ not giTen. 6 .^_ __ DiitUleriee .... 70 36 _ 34 Brewcrie* .... not given. 30 ^ Tanneries .... _ 336 __ Pot and pearlasb. fius- tories 489 640 51 M Other factories . . 64 86 22 — The census of 1831 gives, of land in cul- ture, 2,065,913 acres; and the census of 1844, 2,802,317 acres. Taking the two last census as being au- thentic, we find that the increase was 35*6 per cent., while the increase in population was exactly similar, being 35 per cent. The number of landed proprietors in 1831 was 57,891, being on the average about 36 acres to each; while in 1844 the proprietors amounted to 76,440, or about 36t acres each ; this shows that the state of agricul- ture in Eastern Canada must have been sadly neglected, and that it is only followed far enough to give an actual sustenance to the cultivators. The fisheries of Eastern Canada are very valuable, but have not yet been turned to much account; the whole amount of fish and oil taken does not exceed in value jE100,000 o-year. Gasp^ Fishery and Coal Mining Company has been incorporated in London and in Canada; and in February, 1848, capital to the amount of j£58,307 had been actually paid up on account of the company, and shares to the value of £17,474 had been accepted by the Vendors of Estates in Gasp^ and County of Bonaventure, of the value of £40,698, as part payment, and representing cash. The company has invested above j£30,000 in improving their estates, in build- ing a mill, shops, and stores, in clearing land, in the erection of an extensive " Beach," or fishing establishment, in constructing vessels and boats, &c. Timber, lumber, and ashes constitute the principal exportable produce. In the neigh- l>ourhood of Quebec £1,200,000 has been expended in lumber and saw mills. The iron works are carried on to a great extent at St. Maurice in the district of Three Riven. Whiskey is lai^ly distilled at Montreal; there aie several soap and can- dle manufactor.es, a manufactory for cloth, and about 20,\;30 domestic looms in East- em Canada. The quantity of fulled cloth produced in Eastern Canada is about 800,000 yards; of linen or cotton cloth, 1,000,000 yards; of flannel or woollen, 700,000 yurds: the quantity of sheep wool annually pro- duced, about 1,500,000 lbs. The etoffe du pays is a gray homespun doth, made of mixed wool, and forms the substantial warm long coat usually worn by the habitan or Canadian farmer. Worsted stockings and 80"ks, red caps, coloured sashes, mittens, lined with blanketing or hare skins, car- peting and mats, are made in every house- hold. Excellent leather is prepared through- out the province; soap and candles are manufactured to some extent; the produc- tion of linseed oil is rapidly increasing; cordage and paper are of good qualilnr; excellent ale and beer are brewed for do- mestic use, and for export to the West Indies. The dder, after being concentrated or frozen, separated from the icy or aqueous part, forms an excellent beverage. In Western Canada the energy of the Anglo-Saxon race is markedly contrasted with the supineness of the French Canadians — ^who, although in possession of Eastern Canada for more than a century before Western Canada was colonized, are far be- hind their industrious brethren in the west- em division of the province — ^whose progress and prosperity will be best seen by an ex- amination of the following official return : — In less |than a quarter of a century the population was augmented from 153,627 to 723,332, t. e. more than four-fold ; the cultivated lands and houses five-fold; the uncultivated assessed land three-fold; horses and cows five-fold; oxen and other cattle four-fold; saw mills four-fold ; the number of grist mills has been doubled; and the additional stones increased seven-fold. 132 PROGRESS OP WESTERN CANADA SINCE 1825. ■]ii^*^^^j- I WEALTH OF BACH DISTRICT IN WESTERN CANADA. 183 The Assessment Returns of W. Canada for the yeat I848 give the folkming results : CUtrioU. Butem . . Johnstown . Bathunt . MidlMid . Frinoe Edward Home . . Simeoe . . Nisffan Wellington London . . Hoion . . Ottawa . , Colborne Newcastle '. Oore Talbot . . Western . Total Land in Acre*. i08,469 oUUfVUCI 382,73A 336,313 117,477 **"!n»ii °| TllPf ^ ili^ilssg lis "S-SfeS ■vmx Hills' -s isetsi noqt»x iiiiii ■^ilHIPHilll "$;iSQ!«! *Moai]s iilillf fiiii If! IPPI ''«m!8S pit mSi-i s s 11 -^sisas ••*««o •2l3a» •mirfniN f«* ■pipH 'S^tess •ODMSJUK ■P«""IPlll "^'-teSS 8*821 (uio|fin{i>f |SSfS| 'JS-SSS ■nookH Finn "sitsa '•■BH ipipgf "S! ss^iss •MOO •II Sfi¥5IfiII" •s-8§| ■niatma |*gp§s| »3^f-4 *-t 1-1 CO 0> -ss I sag ejinoiusd ■ 4hh ■FPiilili ^ M: '8S-sas ■aojoqtoo OS <4 msQOSSt: •nowa SS" nsilSf51a~^es" "U IS88 •^uK'B'a i§iiP »S»§$S 4 I i I. .1 I I • -^ m ■I mtUk ISSS f'SSS AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE OF WESTERN CANADA. 180 He avenure yidd of the serenl cropi in the Eaatera Dismct, for example, of Western Canada, for the laat ten jrears haa been : — wheat, about 25 boahela per acre; com, 40; oats, 40; barley, 80; peas, 85 boahela per acre. It will be perceived that agricultural po- duce is the staple of the colony: vanons manufactories are now however arising ; and the engines of many steam vessels on the lakes, have been made in Canada. About 60 large class steamers have been built and fitted oat for the navigation of the lakes, and no accident by explonon has occurred. Woollens, linens, and flannels for domestic use, are made in every district; whiskey distilleries, breweries, Ktnndries, tanneries, pot, pearl-ash, soap, and candle manufac- tories, are very numerous. The quantity of maple sugar made in Western Canada, in 1848, was 4,140,667 lbs., or nearly 6 lbs. for each individual. Apples, pears, plums, peaches, cherries, ra^berries, currants, strawberries, gooseberries, and damsons, flourish when cultivated. On the shores of Lake Erie peaches have been sold at a quarter of a dollar per bushel, and apples are sold on the banks of the river Thames at three-pence-ha^enny per bushel. All culinary vegetables arrive at perfection. Pumpkins and squashes grow in the open fields to an enormous size ; 60 to 80 pounds weight is not unusual. The fisheries of the great lakes are now being appreciated ; iron and copper ore abound, and are of good quality. But the* main sources of wealth consist of millions of acres of fertile soil, a genial climate, industrious people, and .>. market such as England, ready to receive i J; times an incalculable quantity of human toed, and to furnish in return, abundance of manu- factures at the cheapest rate. The number of proprietors of real estates liable to assessment in Western Canada, in 1848, was 60,000 to 66,000 ; and the num- ber of acres occupied, 8,613,591 := 133 acres to each proprietor ; allowing 1,780,162 acres of land to be arable, and 766,768 pas- ture =z 2,546,920; and considering that the great body of the people are supported by agriculture, there are more than 8 acres to each mouth. The number of acres returned under tillage was 1,780,152; and under designated crops, as follows : — ^wheat, 593,695 ; barley, 29,824; rye, 88,543; oats, 285,671; peas, 82,516; maize, 51,997; buck-wheat, 26,663; potatos, 66,796 aorea sa 1,166,004; add for omiaaions 10 t^ cent., 116,600. Grand total under designated oropa, 1,281,604 acres; which laavea 498,688 unaoeoonted for, probably impropriated in gardens, town- plots, fcc. The unproductive lands in Western Can- ada OMnprise 671,189 acres, or about 6-68 pev cent. ; but a large portion returned aa unfit for cultivation, are swamp lands, which only require drainage. In England the unprofitable lands are estimated at 10 per cent, of the whole area. The value of the tmcuUivated loads, vis.: 6,849,406 acres, at £1 9t. 2d. per acre, is je8,680,888; of the cultivated, viz.: 2,646,920 acres, at £8 lOt. 10(f. per acres je,920,841; total, £17,660,726. Western Canada, as a British colony, ofilers a &vourable contrast to the United States as reeuds agricultural produce. The Statistical Reporter for the province makes the following remarks thereon : — " In 1840 the population of the United States was 17,063,353 ; and in 1847, 20,746,400. In 1842 the population of Western Canada was 486,056 ; and in 1848, 728,882." UnOtdSlaUi. Quantity OroM OroM to each Crop*. qvanti|T in quantity in inhabitant. 1840. 1847. 'Wheat— boduli 84323,272 11,246300 4M 6-60 Barley „ 4,161,fiM 6349,950 •26 ■28 Oati 123,071,341 167367300 7-21 809 Bya „ 18,646,fiC7 29,222,700 109 1-42 Buokwheat „ 7,291,703 II3733O8 0-43 •66 Hai» 377,431,876 639360300 22-12 26-01 Potatoa „ 108,295,108 100366300 6-35 4-86 Peu NotgiTen in dther re tnma. Qmada. Quantity. Oroca OroM to each Crops. qnantitT in qoantiWin inhabitant. 1842. 1847. Whea^-bmheli 8,221,991 7368,773 6-62 1045 Barley „ 1,031335 616,727 2.12 071 OaU „ 4,788,167 7,056,730 9-86 9-75 Bye „ 292,970 446,293 0-60 0-62 Buckwheat „ 362,786 432373 0-72 060 Maiie „ 691369 1,137366 1-42 1-67 PotatOi n 8380397 4,761331 16'62 667 Peaa 1,193361 1,763346 as 2-42 From the above table it will be seen that in proportion to the extent and population, Canada is a more agricultural and fertile country than the United States; the surplus of wheat is very great. The usual quantity allowed for the consumption of each inhabi- IS6 PRICES OP LAND WILD AND CLBARBD IN WESTERN CANADA. it geaenUj B bothela, which wonld ]mt9 for nport one-half the prodnce of the eowitrf . 'Tne hurge qaantHf of Indian com Kimtn in the Stalea, enahiea them, by mak- ing it • ataite of eimnunption, to export a urge atock of flour. In Canada, on the contranr, little Indian com ia grown, and wheat beeomea of neeeaiitj the great article of food. If wotake the produce for 1847 at the loweat average prices, we hare as the vahie of the prodnola of Canada : — Pradneti. WiMat. . Bad**. . Otm . . Mime . . Buckwheat PeM . . Potato* . Boaheb. 010,797 7,OM,730 440,293 l,ia7,6M 432,073 1,7SS,846 4,7«t,331 ATerage prie**. 8 S s 3 6 6 6 Value. £ t,32S,78a 6tsOI9 S 440,fle3 2 00,206 1 142,104 7 86,614 12 210,230 16 3W,32B 16 «. d. 6 "Ib making the foregoing oomparison be- tween the cropa of the United Statea and Canada, a remark has been made which requires some obaerration. It is stated to oe uQJuat to take the whole of the fonaer country, whereas some portions do not pro- duce wheat, Louisiana and Florida for inataoGe, whose united population is about 600,000; we will take therefore those states which piodnoe the greateat quantity, via: — United Stetea. New York . . Pennsylvania . Vireinis . . Ohio . . . Indiana . . Population. 2,880,000 2,220,000 1,290,000 1,080,000 1,000,000 Wheat Bnihels. 10,000,000 10,200,000 12,200,000 20,000,000 8,000,000 Averase to inhabitant Bushels. about 7 „ 10 ,. 10 8 enonnons harrest of grain, above 8B0 bushels to each man. The wheat crop being about S4 bttshels to each inhabitant.'' Cattle increase with great rapidity in Canada, etpeeially in the western part of the province, where the winters are not serere. CattU m ir««<«m Canaia. Deieiiption. Neat Cattle Hone* Hogs , . DAeep . 1842. 004,963 113,670 4V4fO0O 070,730 1848. 060,840 101,380 484,2(1 833,807 Increase. 60,882 37,714 89,870 206/)77 Per Cent 12 33 23 40 "With respect to Michigan, it is worth while to examine the returns ; in 1840 the popubtion of that State, was 212,267, and its prodt je in wheat was 2,157,108 bushels. In 1846 the population is rated at 420,000, and the wheat crop at 10,000,000 bushels, and other crops at 22,110,000, making together 82,000,000 bushels. How does that stand with regard to the available labour of the State? AcoordxBg to the ratio of 1841, the whde maliB pojndstion between the ages of IB and 70 wonld be about 127,000, of whom, allowing 75 pier cent, to be engaged in agri- culture we have 92,000 to collect this Western Canada will become a great sheep country. In 1842 the wool produced was 1,802,510 lbs.; in 1848, 2,889,766 lbs. In the Uuited States the number of sheep in 1840 was 19,311,874 and the wool pro- duced 85,802,114 Ibe. The quantity of lands surveyed and granted m Eastern and Western Canada, will be seen in the following tables; the subject of emigration, in connexion with the waste and unoccupied lands, will be given at the conclusion of the description m the whole of British America, to which the data fmnished by ofScial authorities apply gen- lie remarks made in 1846 by the instruc- tive editor of the Canadian Gazetteer (Mr. W. H. Smith) respecting the price of land in Western Canada, descrva tne notice of emigrants. " All lands in the possession of the crown, with very few exceptions, are sold at %8. currency per acre, which may be paid for either in casn or scrip. This scrip IS tisually to be purchased at a discount of 20, 25, and sometimes 80 ner cent. If the immigrant gets it at a reanction of 2B per cent., his land will only cost him 6«. currency per acre, which is three pence yet acre less than the government price or land in the United States. There are about 2,800,000 acres of the crown lands in Western Canada surveyed and ready to be disposed of at this price, exclusive of the clergy reserves." Land may be purchased of private individuals in the* different districts of Western Canada at the following rates: — In Victoria district, near the frontier, 4 to 10 dollam per acre for wild (uncultivated) land, and for culti- vated forms, including buildings, 20 to 85 dollars per acre. In the back townships, wild land 1 to 4; cultivated, 8 to 20 dollars per acre. Other districts similar. IN E. AND W. CANADA. 187 ■*<5.-"ln»«>.<^4 , «l i-^« 53 o F^ » ^ up CO eo ^ tr ^ ^ to e to « to i-'iii I lilt; 188 PUH(;UA8K OF INDIAN LANDS IN WESTERN CANADA. The qutntltjr of land ori|{in>ll]r lurveyed in Weitern (Jmiiulii, itioliidinK that ■urrpiidered oy the Iiidinn trIhfN, wm about 1H,153,219 aoro«, wliicth have boon appropriated as fol- lowi! — To the Unitod Kniii^rant lioyalists, and for variuu* olainti, 10,404,603 acres. Of this amount thn Utiitod Kmigrant Loy- aliita who quitted the (United States during the war a|(ninKt Kngland received about 8,30(),ttH7 aoroi) the Canadian Militia about 7A(),7()U aort'S) Disobarged Soldiers and Seamen, 4'M,'K)() acres; Magistrates and Barristers. 3Dn,600 acres) Legislative Councillors and their families, 142,060 acres. The Clertfy Rosorves, consisting of one- seventh of the surveyed cultivable lands, set apart by Qeorge III. fur the support of the Christian religion, amounted to 2,407,687 acres. There haa been allotted for eduoa* tional purposes to King's College, Toronto, 225,044 acres; to Upper Canada College, 63,&12 acres; to Grammar Schools, 2B8,8aO acres. The Canada Company have pur> chased 2,484,413 acres. The Indian Reser- vations not disposed of amount to 808,540 acres; the lauds remaining on hand, 1,600,000 acres ; and the unsurveyed land* are about I3,.'>(X),000 acres; of which it is estimated 9,0()0,100 acres are flt for oulti- vatiuii. About half the surveyed lands of Western Canada have been pnrohaacd from the Indians since 1818, and Mr, W, II, Smith, in his valuable Canadian Oazellter, gives thr following statement of the quantity of land bought, and the price paid by the British Government: — D»tii of Mur< rinder, Wtb July, IH'JO aut M*y, INIO 'iSth Out,, IHIH &lb Nuv„ UIH I7tli Oet„ 1811 26th April, IH'iA IHh M»r, lUO 2dth o«t., \m etb All*., uao NsmcafTrlb*. Mnhiiwkii of Uuliitn Hiiy MIwIhi«iii« (if AInwIttk Diito iir ('rmllt Ulter /DltKi iif llli« nrid Mudi I l tributes an immense quantity. | Tn order to facilitate the transit of timber on the Ottawa, and overt the danger attendant on pa8!m 20 to 200 tons — all built in Western Canada. The steamers range fix)m 50 to 700 tons. Internal Trade. — Inland commerce is very active, especially on the great lakes and adjacent canals. Its increase may be con- jectured from the traffic on the Welland canal, which connects Lakes Erie and On- tario, and extends about 38 miles. In 1829 it was rendered partially available ; in 1837 the tolls collected amounted to j65,516; and in 1847, to ^630,549. The Cornwall Canal recently constructed, yielded in 1845 tolls amounting to £51, and in 1847, £3,336. The revenue collected at the port of To- ronto, on Lake Ontario, was, in 1841, je5,050; in 184/, .£32,678. At Kingston, 142 PROGRESSIVE IMPROVEMENT OF CANADA. on Lake Ontario, the customa yielded in 184A, je6,826; in 1847, £17,584. The gross customs collected at different inland ports in Western Canada, was in 1842, £10,723; in 1847, £40,009. At the inland ports in Eastern Canada, the increase was &om £2,278 to £9,765. The exports by land from Canada to the United States, amounted in 1832, to 3,641,385 dollars, and in 1841, to 6,656,564 dollars. The total exports firom Canada to the United States by land for the ten years, ending 1841, were in value, 40,645,643; and the total imports into Canada from the United States for the same period, 18,480,234 dol- lars; showing a balance in favour of Canada of exports over imports, 22,165,643 dollars. The "slides" on the Ottawa yielded tolls for timber passing in 1845, £946 ; in 1846, £6,054. The "slides" on the Trent in 1845, £6; in 1847, £1,162. The gross revenue from roads was in 1842, £3,821; and in 1847, £21,763. The revenue from inland harbours increased in the same period from £1,664 to £4,643; on canals generally, from £18,535 to £50,131; on bridges, from £210 to £1,094. The amount of rateable property in Upper or Western Canada in 1825, was £997,025 ; in 1841, £5,996,609; in 1848, about .€9,000,000. All this indicates remarkable progress, espe- cially as 1847-48 was a year of depressed trade in Canada. Twenty-five years ago there were only two newspapers published in Western Canada, now there are an hundred in the province ; then there were but eight post-offices, scat- tered at great distances along the frontier, and the mail was conveyed by land from Lower (Eastern) to Upper (Western) Can- ada, once a fortnight by land, and from Toronto, westward, once a month; now there are 280 post-offices in Western Canada, and the frequency of postal communication in- creases with the rapid transmission of letters. In 1834 the number of post-offices in the Canadas was 234 ; in 1844 the num- ber was greatly increased. There arc about 5,000 miles of post roads. The onward progress of Canada may be illustrated by the following state- ment respecting the county of Huron in Western Canada. In 1828 it was an un- tenanted- waste ; in 13 years it had 6,000 settlers; of these 514 families went on their land destitute of means, and in 1841 their stock and improvements were valued at £90,486; — 61 families had means under £10 a head, and their property had in- creased to £10,424; 264 families had means under £50 per head, and their means aug- mented to £40,626; and the value oi property possessed by individuals who com- menced with a capital exceeding £50 per head, rose to £100,860. Thus the value of stock and improvements in the coimty of Huron became in 13 years, £242,286. These are not singular instances; similar cheering results of energy and industry, are to be met with in many districts of Canada. The increase of houses in Western Can- ada between 1827 and 1847, was at the rate of about 10 per cent, per annum; in England fi«m 1812 to 1831, it was not 3 per cent. Grist mills in Western Canada increased fit)m — 1330 to 1836 . . 79 I 1840 to 1846 . . 68 1836 to 1840 . . 68 | 1846 to 1847 . . 49 The increase during the last period was, consequently, 5*13 per cent, per annum. The increase of horses from 1825 to 1847, was 9 per cent.; of oxen, 6 per cent.; of milch cows, 8 per cent.; of young cattle from 1840 to 1845, 12 per cent.; between the years 1842 and 1847, neat cattle in- creased 12 per cent.; horses, 33 per cent.; hogs, 23 per cent.; and sheep, 45 per cent, per annum. The honourable Mr. F. Hincks, the re- ceiver-general of Canada, has favoured me with the following data, which bear evidence of the improvement of the province: — Population of Eastern Canada. Population of Wetttm Canada. 1826 . . . 423,630 1827 . . . 471,876 1831 . . . 611,920 1844 .. . 690,782 1848 estimate 776,000 1824 . . . 161,007 1832 . . . 261,060 1834 . . . 320,693 1836 . . . 872,602 1842 . . . 486,065 1848 . . . 723,202 1826 IS'IJ 18;i.^ 1840 1846 1848 1826 1830 1836 1840 1846 1847 1848 636,212 775,014 1,208,608 1,710,000 2,311,238 2,673,820 OrittMilk. Saw MiUi. .... 71 1826 . . . , ^ . 273 1830 . . . . . . 362 1836 . . . , , . 420 1840 . . . . 478 1846 . . . . 492 1847 . . . . . . 827 Houtet of all kind*. 1826 . . . 8,876 1830 . . . 12,082 183) . . . 18,488 1840 . . , 26,857 1845 . . . 37,214 1848 . . . 42,937 394 660 763 963 1,273 1,489 80 per cent, of the whole jpopulation derive their subsistence directly trom agriculture. Acres of Cultivated Land in Western Canada. PROSPERITY AND MARITIME TRADE OF CANADA. 148 304 666 763 963 1 1,272 1,489 Carriage* kept for pleasure MBfth 1825 ... 687 1825 . 1830 ... 986 1830 . 1836 . . . 1,496 1835 . 1840 . . . 1,863 1840 . 1845 . . . 3,800 1845 . 1847 . . . 4,685 1848 Valu« i^Aeteued Property 1825 . .£2,266,874 1830 . . 2,929,260 1836 . . 3,880,094 1840 . . 6,607,426 1846 . . 7,778,917 1847 . . 8,667,001 . 456 748 . 982 . 1,123 . 1,636 . 1,946 Loecd direct Taxet. 1825 . . .£10,235 1830 . . . 13,335 1835 . . . 22,464 1840 . . . 37,465 1845 . . . 76,291 1848 . . . 86,068 Public Building* in Wettem Town Halls .... Churches Colleges and High Schools Common Schools . . Busli Is of Wheat Oate . Rye . Peas . Maize . Barley Potatoes Wool . . Neat Cattle Horses Produce. (1842 (1848 nA42 (1848 /1842 11848 rl842 11848 fl842 11848 fl842 "11848 fl842 \1848 rl842 tl848 /1842 tl848 rl842 "11848 Canada, 68 895 39 2,464 . 3,221,991 . 7,868,773 . 4,788,167 . 7,086,730 . 292,970 . 446,293 . 1,193,651 . 1,783,846 . 691,350 . 1,137,655 . 1,031,366 . 515,727 . 8,080,397 . 4,751,331 lbs. 1,302,610 . 2,330,766 Head. 604,963 565,846 113,657 151,389 Sheep .... 1842 . Head. 576,730 1848 .. . 833,807 Hogs 1842 . . . 394,366 1848 . . . 448,241 No comparative Returns of the following : — 1848. lbs. Flax . . . 41,590 Butter . . . 3,380,406 Cheese . . . 668,387 Owing to causes which I need not explain, the last census was not taken for Eastern Canada. The statistics given, therefore, are for Western Canada alone. Maritime Cohhekck. — Quebec and Mon- treal are the seaports of Canada. In 1800 the arrivals at Quebec consisted of 64 vessels, with a burthen of 14,293 tons ; in 1842, 864 vessels, of 307,687 tons; and in 1845, 1,476 vessels, of 559,712 tons. In the appendix to the minutes of evi- dence before the select committee of the House of Lords in 1848, the declared value of British and Irish produce exported from the United Kingdom to Canada, is stated for 1845 at £2,212,339, and the official value of the same at £4,511,699. The shipping which entered the ports of the United Kingdom from Canada during the same year was, 1,580 vessels, of 629,824 tons. The value of the import and export trade has increased in nearly the same ratio as the shipping. The subjoined tables show the amount of the sea commerce for the 8 years following the re-union of Eastern and Western Canada in 1840 : — Value of Imports at the Ports of Quebec and Montreal since the re-union of the Provinces. British Colonies. Other Foreign States. Great Britain. United States. m Years. West Indies. North America. Elsewhere. Total. Quebec : £ € £ £ £ £ £ 1841 74,457 775 57,922 — . 282,610 17,343 179,100 1842 76,701 1,016 28,748 — 16,275 66,363 178,084 1843 234,449 1,039 42,390 72 27,997 24,647 330,597 1844 306,196 904 48,310 123 80,646 33,798 630,070 1845 486,047 6,321 26,982 64 62,970 16,145 585,633 1846 496,009 38,361 1,481 62,448 28,884 617,246 1847 473,417 624 42,078 813 109,082 28,985 686,003 1848 381,626 1,686 64,066 3,020 60,803 23,302 614,303 1849 Montreal : 1841 1,632,480 38,616 — -. 10,783 17,078 1,600,837 1842 1,614,981 1,072 32,686 — 668 12/J70 1,661,868 1843 911,828 1,266 64,676 — 68,809 33,761 1,050,021 1844 1,803,226 367 66,378 — 143,219 30,922 2,034,315 1846 1,990,864 8,329 33,876 — 100,114 20,446 2,163,631 1846 1,734,760 31 37,111 — 00,613 31,206 1,803,623 1847 1,401,877 270 49,487 — 126,567 27,786 1,606,078 1848 1,062,948 — 29,622 — 107,873 17,138 1,217,604 1840 — — "— ~— ^^ ""■ ~ ■> 144 ARTICLES OF EXPORT AND IMPORT AT QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. Value of Export* from Quebec and Montreal. Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Other Foreign States. Years. West Indies. North America. Elsevhere. Total. Quebec ; 1841 IMS 1846 1847 1848 1849 Montreal : 1841 1842 1843 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 £ 1,102,642 692,107 1,068,288 1,178,326 1,649,702 1,478,573 1,413,599 1,034,121 626,064 565,681 286,876 697,276 571,096 606,697 616,563 283,104 £ 31,337 24,187 11,133 3,381 1,460 989 11,782 5,137 5,720 3,444 £ 78,946 56,578 33,706 34,899 33,728 64,394 88,651 79,466 36,543 28,137 27,470 16,766 21,339 18,784 32,878 27,474 £ 191,952 127,693 1,025 1,869 2,028 £ 417 467 760 "921 1,618 6,293 22,687 11,124 £ 14,853 14,446 10,968 3,968 4,871 116 329 416 460 400 358 £ 1,420,049 614,922 1,124,097 1,222,067 1,690.662 1,634,074 1,606,269 1,115,619 576,400 598,955 319,067 617,916 592,436 641,100 697,794 322,061 The variety of articles exported firom the United Kingdom to the British North American Colonies is shown in a return laid before parliament, 22nd August, 1848, which states the declared value of some of the principal exports to British North America to be as follows, in the year 1847 : — Cotton manufactures, £606,614; woollen manu- factures, £586,151 ; iron and steel, £342,166; apparel, slops, and haberdashery, £356,006; linen manufactures, £147,670; hardware and cutlery, £166,994; cordage, £102,807; silk manufactures, £117,425 ; leather, sad- dlery, and harness, £73,754 ; brass and cop- per manufactiures, £32,516; earthenware, £52,869; hats, £35,984; soap and can- dles, £46,671; stationery, £54,157; glass, £33,890; tin wares, £19,809; umbrellas and parasols, £8,372; apothecary wares, £16,377; musical instruments, 5,129; pain- ters' colours, £24,403; plate, watches, &c., £17,020; books, £19,013; cabinet wares, £7,548; fishing tackle of all sorts, £39,496; lead and shot, £9,126; and various other arti- cles — the whole amounting to £3,231,480 declared value, which is far less than the real value. The principal articles imported into the United Kingdom from the British North American Colonies in 1847, consisted of timber not sawn or split, 590,557 loads; deals, battens, or other timber sawn or ipUt, 494,084 loads; staves, 82,308; ashes (pearl and pot), 99,713 cwts.; wheat, 87,199 quarters; wheat and flour, 1,079,940 cwts. beef salted, 1,272 cwts.; pork do. 8,004 cwts. fish, 83,486 cwts.; oil (train and spermaceti) 10,324 tuns ; skins and furs undressed, viz. bear, 5,870; beaver, 23,132; fox, 27,102 lynx, 32,299; marten, 150,048; mink 42,860; musquash, 2^,982; otter, 8,021 seal, 443,438; wolf, 10,730. The following statement shews the — ExporU from Canada by Sea (exclusive of Timber J, for the years 1838 to 1847 inclutive. Years. Ashe*. Butter. Beef. Barley. Flour. barrels. lbs. barrels. bushels. barrels. 1838 29,464 80,636 439 146 69,204 1839 26,480 7238 2310 130 48,427 1840 24,498 403,730 3,686 60 816312 1841 22,01" 211,497 2,968 4,604 366,210 1842 27,641 642,611 9,608 867 294,799 1843 34,916 374,207 7,196 6,940 209,957 1844 86,743 460,800 6,668 63,766 416,467 1846 30,916 812,476 2,140 27,626 442,228 1846 26,011 786,701 2326 6,287 666,602 1847 19,243 1,086,666 1390 23,012 661,030 Tears. Oatmeal. Peas. Pork. Wheat. Oato. barrels. bushels. barrels. bushels. bushels 1838 622 1,416 8368 None. None. 1839 60 2366 6,479 3336 1840 6,008 69378 11,230 142,069 1841 4,667 123,674 14,796 662362 — 1842 6,764 78,986 40,288 204,107 6366 1843 6,327 88318 10,684 144,233 8,661 1844 6,726 130366 11,164 282,183 24,674 1846 1,670 220,912 3,493 396,262 63330 1846 6,930 216339 6,698 634,747 46360 1847 21,999 119,262 4,674 628,001 166306 barreli. 69^ 48,427 316,612 366,210 294,799 209,967 416,467 442,228 666,602 661,030 Oats. busheli None. 6,006 3,661 24,674 63,630 46/)60 166,806 146 CHAPTER VI. ^ REVENUE, EXPENDITURE, AND FINANCIAL STATE OF CANADA; BANKS, COINS, CTRCULATINQ MEDIUM; PRICES OF PROVISIONS, WAGES OF LABOUR, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES; PROPERTY, MOVABLE AND IMMOVABLE; SUMMARY ADVICE ON "SEPARATION" OR "ANNEXATION," &c. . , Bevenue. — At the period of the British conquest of Canada the public income was very trifling; in 1806, it amounted to £29,116, and the expenditure was £35,134. The revenue of Eastern and Western Canada stood thus in the undermentioned years: — Revenue Receipta. Expenditure. •m II 11 Total. 3 s 11 Total. HU i*o HU tfo £ £ £ £ £ £ 1824 83,309 61,666 144376 83,763 43,653 127,316 1839 147,264 167,627 304,881 165,991 196,310 362,330 1842 United 349,483 — — 476,304 1847 , , 606,826 — — 458,021 1849 Estimated . . 874,640 — — 666,403 The annual revenue of the province is derived from Custom duties, about £450,000, of which one-third is yielded by the inland ports on the lakes, and United States fron- tier; the remainder consists of sea Customs. The Excise yields £30,000 a year, which is obtained from the licensing of shops, inns, stills, ale and beer houses, auctioneers, steam-boats, hawkers and pedlars, and bil- liard-tables, and from a duty on auction sales. The Tolls from public works are estimated for 1849, at £50,000; in 1847 the gross receipts were £83,333; viz.: from canals, £50,131 : harbours, £4,643; bridges, £1,094 ; locks and slides on the Ottawa and Trent rivers, £5,702; roads, £21,763. The territorial revenue is from £20,000 to £25,000 a year; of this sum the crown lands yielded in 1847, £22,330. Tariff or Custom Duties. — Under the authority of an act of the Imperial Parlia- ment, passed in the 9th and 10th years of her majesty's reign, c. 94, entitled, " an act to enable the legislatures of certain British possessions to repeal or reduce certain Cus- tom duties," the Canadian legislature passed an act, No. one, 10 and 11 Vic, c. 31, on 28th July, 1847, repealing certain imperial acts, 9 and 10 Vic, c. 94, and 8 and 9 Vic, c. 93, and various provincial acts, and imposing the following duties in lieu of all other duties of Customs inwards: — VOL. I, Duty Curreiiov Animals : — ■ £ i. a. Cows and Heifers, each , . .12 6 Calves, each S Goats, each 2 6 Horses, Mares, Geldings, Colts, Fillies, Foals, each 1 16 Kids, each 2 6 Lambs, each 10 Oxen, Bulls, Steers, each . . . 1 15 Pi^s (sucking), each . . . .006 Swine and Hogs, each . . . .060 Sheep, each 2 Candles. — Wax or Sperm, the lb. . .0 03 Tallow, the lb 1 All other kinds 2 Chocolate, the lb 2 Cocoa, the lb OJ Coffee, Green, the lb l| Roasted, the lb 2^ Ground, the lb 4 Corti Brooms, the dozen . . . .013 Fish, Salted or Dried, per 112 lbs. . .026 Pickled, the barrel . . • .050 Flour, the barrel of 196 lbs. . . .030 Fruit, viz.: — Almonds, the lb. . . . IJ Apples, the bushel . . . .006 Ditto, dried, the bushel . . . .010 Currants and Figs, the lb. . , .001 Nuts of all kinds, the lb. . . .001 Peaches, Pears, and Quinces, the bushel 10 Prunes, the lb li Raisins — Muscatel, Bloom, and Bunch, in boxes, the lb. . . . .001 Ditto, otherwise, the lb. . . .001 Glass. — Window and Common German Sheet Glass, per box of 50 feet . .013 Grain, viz. : — ^Wheat, Barley, Buckwheat, Bere, Bigg, Rye, Beans, and Peas, the q^uarter 3 Maize or Indian Com, the quarter of 480 lbs 3 Oats, the quarter . . . . .020 Meal of the above Grains, and of Wheat not bolted, the 196 lbs. . . .020 Bran or Shorts, the 112 lbs. . . .003 Hops, the lb 3 Honey, the lb 1 India Rubber Boots and Shoes, the pair . 7J Leather, viz. : — Goat Skins, tanned, tawed, or in any way dressed, the dozen .030 Lamb or Sheep Skins, tanned, tawed, or in any way dressed, the dozen . .026 Calf Skins, tanned, tawed, or in any way dressed, the lb. . . . .004 Kip Skins, the lb 2 Harness and Upper Leathers, the lb. . IJ Sole Leather, the lb 2 Leather cut into shapes, the lb. . .004 Patent or Glazed Leather, the lb. . .004 All Leather not above described . . 1| V 146 TARIFF OR CUSTOM DUTIES IN CANADA. m Duty Currency. £ S.d. Leather Manufactures, viz. : — Women's Boots and Shoes, the dozen .066 Oirls' Boots and Shoes under 7 inches in length, the dozen, including al! kinds 2 6 Children's Boots and Shoes over 3 inches in length, the dozen . . . .026 Infant's Shoes under 3 inches in length, the dozen 16 Men's Boots, the pair . . . .020 Men's Shoes, the pair . . . . 7| Boy's Boots under 8 inches in length, the pair 10 Boys' Shoes under 6 inches in length, tne pair 4 Liquids, not Spirituous, viz. : — Ale and Beer in Casks, per gallon .004 Ditto in Bottles, per dozen , . .013 Cider and Perry, the gallon . . 1^ Vinegar, the gallon . . . .003 Maccaroni and Vermicelli, the lb. . .001} Molasses and Treacle, the cwt. . .040 Oils. — Olive in casks, the gallon . .000 Ditto in jars or bottles, Uie gallon .013 Lard, the gallon 6 Linseed 03, the gallon . . .002} Sperm Oil, the gallon . . . .006 Other Oils from creatures living in the sea 1 Paper, &c.: — Coarse or Wrapping, the cwt. 2 9 Printing, the cwt. . . . .050 Writing, the cwt . . . . 10 Drawing, Music, Murbled or Glazed, Tis8ue,BristolorDrawingCards,thelb. 1} Pasteboard and Cards, the cwt. . .040 Milled or Trunkmakers' Boards, the nwt. 3 Playing Cards, the pack . . . .003 Potatoes, the bushel . . . .003 Provisions, viz.: — Butter, the cwt. . .0 76 Cheese, the cwt . . ..060 Meats. — Bacon and Hams, ditto salted, ditto pickled, the cwt . . .060 Bacon and Hams, fresh, the cwt. . .040 Rum, for every gallon (of old wine mea- sure) proof by Sykes' Hydrometer, all Spirits above that strength to be re- duced to equivalent of proof . .013 Sweetened or Mixed, per gallon ■ .030 Salt from Mines, known as Rock Salt t^nd Salt made from Sea Water, per ton . 16 Coarse, made from Salt Springs, per bushel 2 Fine or Basket and stoved 6 per cent ad valorem and per bushel. . .002 Spices, viz.: — Cassia, Cinnamon, and aoves, the lb 2} Nutmegs, the lb. . . . . fi Pimento, Pepper, Ginger, and Allspice, the lb 1 Mace, the lb 4 Spirits, except Rum, as of Proof, the old Wine gallon 2 Sweetened or Mixed, including Bitters, per gallon 3 Sugar. — Refined or Candy, per cwt . .17 6 Muscovado, per c- ., 15 3 Clayed Sugar (10 per cent ad \alorem) and per cwt 15 3 Bastard, per cwt (and £10 for every £100 value) 12 Duty Cnrronoy £ ,.d. Sugar. — In which are preserves, per cwt .16 6 Succades, including Confectionary, 20 per cent ad valorem, and on the lb. .002 Syrups, except Spirits, the gallon . .010 Tea, the lb 2} Tobacco, viz.: — Unmanufactured, the lb. . 1} Manufactured, the lb. . . .002 Snuff, the lb 6 Cigars, the lb 3 Wine — (in addition to 10 per cent on the value, including cask and bottles) — the old Wine gallon . . .010 Wood. — Staves, Standard or Measurement per mille . . . _ . . .15 Puncheon or West India, viz : — White Oak, per standard mille . 10 6 Red Oak „ „ .076 Ash and Barrel „ „ .040 Deals, Pine, per Quebec standard 100 . IS Spruce „ „ 7 6 Handspikes, per dozen . . .003 Oars, per pair 3 Planks, Boards, and all kinds of Sawed Lumber not herein charged with dutv, per 1000 superficial feet, inch thick, and so in proportion for any greater thickness 7 6 Pine, White, and in proportion for any smaller quantity thereof, per 1000 cubic feet 15 Red, per 1000 cubic feet . . 1 15 Oak, per 1000 cubic feet . . . 2 15 Birch, per 1000 cubic feet . . . 2 10 Ash, Eun, Tamarack or Hacmatac, and otiier woods not herein charged with duty, per 1000 cubic feet . . .15 ThefoUouiing Articles shall he liable to a duty of One pound on evert/ One hundred pounds of the value thereof: — Ashes; Anchors and chain cables; Bark; Burr stones, unwrought; Berries, nuta, vegetables, and woods, used in dyeing; cools, coke, and cinders; Cotton wool and cotton yarn ; Copper in bars, pig, sheathing, and sheet; Cocoa nut oil; Drugs used lolelff for dyeing; Flower roots; Fire wood; Grease and Scraps; Hides; Hardwood for furniture, unman- ufactuied; Hay; Hemp, flax, and tow, undressed; Indigo; Iron, bar, rod, and nail, boiler plates, pig, railroad bars, scraps, and old for re-melting ; Junk or oakum; Lard; Lead in pie; Marble in block, unpo- lished; Oars of all metals; Palm oil; Resin; Saw logs; Straw; Sheet and hoop iron; steel in bar; Stone for building; Soda ash; Titllow; Teasles; Tin, sheet and block; Trees, shrubs, bulbs, and Roots; Type metal, in blocks or pigs; Tar and pitch; Wool; Woollen yarn; Yellow metal. ThefoUowiny Articles shall be liable to a duty of Five pounds on every One hundred pounds of the value thereof: — Books, printed, unbound, or in sheets; Drugs, being in a cruae or unprepared state, except dye stuffs; Furs, skins and peltries, dressed or undressed; Gums; Rice; Shingles; Tortoise shell; Wire, iron. The following Articles shall be liable to a duty of Seven pounds ten shillings on every One hundred pounds of the value thereof: — Books, blank, bound, unbound, or in sheets; Burr 1 5 I 10 6 ) 7 6 ) 4 16 7 6 3 3 6 TAttlFF OR CUSTOM DUTIES IN CANADA. 14"' uty of Seven tdredpounds Ihects; Burr ■tone*, wrought; Chicory; Chains; Cotton, manufac- tures of; Cordatre; Canvass; Camblets and camblc- tines; Cane work; Casks, empty; Costs in plaster of Paris or composition, unless their material is other- wise charged with a higher duty; Drawings, engrav- ings, maps, globes; Extracts and essences used as medicines; Earthen and stoneware; Furs and skins, manufactures of; Fins and skins, the produce of crea- tures living in the sea; Feathers; Flowers, artificial, not silk; Goods, whose foundation is wool; Glass manufactures, not otherwise described; Gunpowder; Guns and fire-arms; Gold and silver leaf; Hair, manufactures of; Horns, horn tips and pieces; Hard- ware, shelf goods, and cutlery; Hats; Hemp, flax or tow in any way dressed; Juice of limes; Lemons or oranges, not mixed with spirits or sweetened, so as to be syrup; Ink, printers'; Ivory, bone, and horn, manufactures of; Lead, manufactures of; Lead for paint not ground with oil; Lead ground in oil for paint; Linen and linen manufactures; Mules and asses; Mustard; Medicines; Musical Instruments of wood; Mercury; Marble, polished or cut; Oil or spirits of turpentine; Oil, castor; Oil, all not other- wise enumerated; Oil cloth; Oysters, lobsters, turtles, and all other shell fish, fresh; Paints, unground; Paints, water colours; Paint brushes; Quilb; Silk, raw; Silks, manufactures of, not millinery made up; Silk, all goods being in whole or part silk, not other- wise specified; Silks, sewing, cord, and tassels; Sper- maceti, except candles; Spunge; Starch; Straw boards for bookbinders; Sulphur; Tiles ond roofing; Toys; Turpentine; Thread, linen; Vetches; Varnish; Whale- bone; Worsted, manufactures of; Woollen, manufac- tures of; Wax; Wax, manufactures of, except candles; Wood, all manufactured articles of, having no part metal; and all goods, wares, and merchandizes, not otherwise charged with duty, and not herc'n declared to be free of duty. The following Articles thall he liable to a duty of Ten pounds on every One hundred pounds of the value thereof: — Biscuits and crackers; Bastard sugar, together with 12s. per cwt., and clayed sugar, with 15«. 3rf. per cwt.; Cork and cork manufactures; Eggs; Fruit, un- enumerated; Leather manufactures not described; Machines for agricultural purposes, except threshing machines and fanning mills; MeatK prepared other- wise than by salt or pickle; Musical instruments of metal; Oil, animal, except lard — vegetable, not other- wise enumerated — essential, chemical and volatile, perfumed ; Paper manufactures not otherwise charged with duty; Plate and plated ware; Poultry, alive, or dead; Sausages and puddings; Seeds, garden, flower, and vegetable; Soaps of all kinds; Vegetables, fresh; Wine, in addition to Is. a gallon, old wine measure. The following Articles shall he liahle to a duty of Ttcelre pounds and ten shillings for every One hun- dred pounds of the value thereof: — Axes and scythes; Billiard and bagatelle balls of wood and ivory; Balls used at bowls or nine pins; Billiard tables; Bagatelle tables; Camphineoil; Car- riages and vehicles; Carriages and vehicles, parts of; Castings; Clocks and watches; Clocks and watches, parts of; Dice; Flowers, artificial, in part or whole silk; Fanning or bark mills; Jewellery, set or unset; Machinery of all kinds and parts thereof; Silk millinery made up; Silk velvet; Threshing machines and fanning and uark mills. The following Articles shall be liable to a duty of Fif- teen pounds on evjry One hundred pounds of the value thereof: — Extracts, essences, and perfumery, not otherwise provided for; Fish, preserved in oil; Fruit, preserved; Ginger, preserved; Pickles and sauces. The following Articles shall be liable to a duty of Twenty pounds on every One hundred pound* of the value thereof: — Roulette tables; Succades and Confectionary made of sugar, either in whole or in part, in addition to 2d. per lb. Table of Exemptions.— Anatomical Preparations when imported expressly for the use of any college or school of anatomy or surgery, incorporated by royal charter or act of Parliament, not imported for sale. Copies of the Holy Scriptures printed in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and not imported for sale. Books and Maps and Illustrative Drawings, imported for the use of any library to which the public may have free admission, as also for the libraries of either branch of the legislature. Coin and Bullion. Donations of Books or Clothing specially imported for the use of, or to be distributed gratuitously by any charitable society in this province. Fish, fresh, not described. Horses and Carriages of Travellers, and horses, cattle, and carriages and other vehicles, when employed in carrying merchandize, together with the neces- sary harness and tackle, so long as the same are bona fide in use for that purpose, except the horses, cattle, carriages, and vehicles, and harness, of per- sons hawking goods, wares, and merchanmzes through the province for the purpose of retail, and the horses, carriages, and harness of any circus or equestrian troop for exihibition. The horses, car- riages, caravans, and harness of any menagerie, to be free. Horses and cattle belonging to persons coming into the province for the purpose of actually settling therein. 4 Hides, Offal, and Tallow of cattle and swine, slaugh- tered in bond. Manures of all kinds. Models of Machinery, and of other inventions ana improvements in the arts. Packages containing dutiable articles. Philosophical Apparatus, instruments, books, maps, stationery, busts, and casts of marble, bronze, ala- baster or plaster of Paris, paintings, drawings, engravings, etchings, specimens of sculptures, cabinets of coins, medals, gems, and all other col- lections of antiquities, provided the same be spe- cially imported in good faith for the use of any society incorporated or established for philosophicol or literary pursuits, or for the encouragement of fine arts, or for the use or by the order of ony uni- versity, college, academy, school, or seminary of learning withm this province. Philosophical Apparatus, &c., &c., imported for use by any public lecturer for the purpose of gain, and to be re-exported, shall be allowed to be entered under bond of two good and sufficient persons for their exportation within the specified time. Arms or Clothing which any contractor or contrac- tors, commissary or commissaries, shall import or bring into the province for the use of her majesty's army and navy, or for the use of the Indian Xa- 'XiiL-ji'J-^lj^r^i.^^'^l^tai.'.'ii.^^fisi^i 14S REVENUE FROM CUSTOMS, EXCISE, ftc., IN CANADA. tions in thin province: Provided the duty other- wise pavBble would be defrayed or borne by the Treasury of the United Kingdom or of this pro- vince. Specimens of Natural History, Mineralogy, or Botany. Seeds of all lundR, fanning utensils and implements of husbandry, and animals for the improvement of stock when specially imported in good faith by any society incorporated or established for the encou- ragement of agriculture. Wearing Apparel in actual use, and other personal effects not merchandize, implements and tools of trade of handv-craftsmen, m the occupation or employment of persons coming into the province for die purpose of actually settling therein. [The native produce and manufactures of all or any such of the other British North American colo- nies as shall admit the native produce and manufac- tures of Canada free of duty, shall be entitled to exemption from duties under this act, with the excep- tion of spirituous liquors.] Also Salt, salted or cured meats, flour, biscuits, molasses, cordage, pitch, tar, turpentine, leather, leather-ware, fishermen's clothing, and hosiery, fishing craft, utensils and instruments imported into the district of Ga«p6 from the United King- dom or the Channel Islands or neighbouring colo- nies, for the use of the fisheries carried on therein, subject to such regulations as the principal officer of Customs at the port of Quebec shall make, and which he is hereby empowered to establish for the purpose of ascertaining that such articles are bona fde intended to be applied to the use of such fisheries. ThtfoUowing artich$ are prohibited to be imported, under a penalty of Fifty pounds, together leiih tht forfeiture of the Parcel or Package of Oood* in which the $ame shall be found i — Books and Drawings of an immoral or indecent character. Coin, base or counterfeit. In this tariff Canada levies higher duties on British manufactures than has been hitherto authorised by the Imperial Parliament ; — viz. : 7\ per cent. : — the pre- vious tarifl" was at the rate of 5 per cent. There is at present no distinction made between British and foreign goods; it is in fact a free import tariff, except in so for as is necessary for the obtainment of a pro- vincial revenue. England receives no favour whatever on the export of her goods to Canada; the Canadians are at liberty to "buy in the cheapest, and sell in the dearest market;" and the alteration in the navigation laws enables them to employ the shipping of any country, which can earn' their goods with the greatest economy. It cannot be said that the " mother country " has sought any advantage from its govern- ment of this province of the empire. The gross amount of revenue from cus- toms at the principal stations in Eastern and Western Canada, was in — Revenue. 1842. 1843. 1844. 1845. 1846. 1847. 1848. Districts ; — Quebec Montreal . St. John's . Hamilton . Toronto . Kingston . Eastern Canada Inland Ports Western Canada „ £ 72,923 152,403 17,759 7,604 8,390 6,826 2,278 10,723 £ 55,843 102,482 22,350 12,191 17,603 9,278 3,771 18,052 £ 77,879 223,690 36,016 16,989 25,105 18,527 8,368 34,754 £ 74,425 227,765 41,165 22,011 22,195 19,924 10,857 36,614 £ 78,652 179,596 40,422 20,726 33,529 19,273 11,512 38,602 £ 70,831 171,285 45,411 26,768 32,678 17,584 9,765 40,309 £ 63,326 140,499 22,341 30,326 27,752 10,937 38,849 Total . . 278,906 141,570 441,328 434,956 422,312 414,631 334,029 Provincial Excise Duties received . Territorial Revenues Gross Revenue from Canals . . „ Harbours . „ Bridges . „ Locks and Slides „ Roads Total Gross Revenue from Public Works Ordinary Expenses of Management Repairs and other Expenditure Total Deductions .... Nett Revenue from Public Works . 33,991 51,775 18,535 1,664 210 3,821 24,232 1,282 6,580 7,862 16,369 30,741 97,862 25,751 4,450 563 618 3,250 34,604 2,320 6,207 8,527 26,076 33,846 6,570 38,347 3,822 229 1,660 300 44,259 3,524 19,292 22,816 21,443 30,082 25,783 28,957 4,360 1,432 2,478 3,816 41,039 6,339 7,198 13,538 27,501 18,702 23,906 39,340 4,340 1,334 9,300 7,170 61,486 10,614 2,391 13,006 48,480 33,056 26,284 60,131 4,643 1,094 6,702 21,763 83,336 9,470 31,307 40,778 42,557 29,614 61,959 46,493 3,663 1,500 4,368 22.499 78,613 51,519 The revenue raised foi Western Canada is show statement, which exhibi aasessed property in W( rated under provision of ment, including duties on local Ti in ts tl ;stem an a shops purpost the ann le value Canada ct of pa , distille ;sin 3xed of , as rlia- ries, bil ale gei tax inc Ex iard-tab and b leral loc es and orporatc cise les, haw eer hoi al purpo values ii d town iers, pod ises, an ses, and a the vf s, exce iars, stea 1 the t exclusiv jrious ci pt the m-boats, axes foi e of the ties and general PROVINCIAL AND DISTRICT TAXATION IN WESTERN CANADA. 149 178,613 161,519 Dintricta in Ametaed Value of Property. TO] [M. WMtern Canada. Pro- Tincial. Dittrier. Total. £ £ £ £ Bathunt . . . 329,410 142 2,607 2,749 Brock .... 3«7,1M 333 4,320 4354 Colborno . . . 386,794 242 2,358 2301 Ualhoiuie . . . 397/180 384 2,370 2,754 Eaatom .... taam 827 3,243 4371 Gore 846,066 3,031 8,740 11,772 Home .... 1, 106,396 2303 10,957 13,761 Huron .... 148,784 261 1,188 1,449 Johaitown . . . 459,789 1,21)0 4,909 6,160 London .... 582,981 1,078 8320 9,696 Midland . . . idifiSa 2,226 4,031 6,258 Newoaatle . , . 265,271 2,135 6,100 7,436 Niagara . . . 619,536 922 5,909 6331 OtUwa .... 111,418 120 1,208 1328 Prince Edward . 316,703 127 2345 2,473 Simcoe .... 224,485 833 8,136 3368 Talbot .... 288,646 763 2,692 3,446 Victoria . . . 285,171 240 2,135 2376 Wellington . . 477,613 1,615 7366 8382 Western . . . 434,235 687 4349 5,436 Total . . 1 i The tax for schools and school-houses, in 1848, amounted to .€29,668 j ditto building and supporting lunatic asylums, j£4,348. Great portions of the taxes for district pur- poses are raised for temporary objects, such as repairs of particular works, building gaols and lock-up houses, while the school-rate includes a very large sum for building school-houses. The general average of tax- ation in Western Canada for purely district purposes, is about Sd. on the valuation in the districts; in cities and towns it is differently regulated. In all new countries the value of the labour in erecting houses is much greater than that of the materials used. In Canada, the dwellings of the earlier settlers are gener- ally termed " shanties." Such dwellings are not liable to any taxes. The houses taxed in Western Canada since 1837 have been — 1827. 1832. 1837. 1842. 1847 No. of Houses Additional fire- places . . . 9,889 1392 14350 2,080 22,057 2391 2V;38 6,823 42,737 9,218 Value asses'. £ 352304 514,667 751,883 1,235,189 1,679,496 The assessments, it is stated, are very much below the actual value of the property assessed. They merely indicate the value according to the rate prescribed by the pro- vincial act regulating assessments in Upper Canada. By that act, the highest value at which a house is rated is £60, or if con- taining more than two fire-places, i£10 more for every additional fire-place. Houses, therefore, that have cost from £300 to j63,000 are, in these returns, rated as of the value of £60. So also mills and other valu- able buildings. Cultivated land is valued at £1 per acre, though its actual value may, on the average, be estimated at £5 per acre. Uncultivated lands are valued at 4«. per acre, though the government sell none for less than twice that price. It would not be unsafe, therefore, to multiply the amount of the assessed value by 6, to arrive at an approximation to the actual value ot the property in Upper Canada. Thus, £7,189,901 X 5 = £35,699,555. These calculations take no account also of a large amount of local public property, yielding a considerable annual revenue, such as turn- pike roads, market buildings, &c., belonging to local corporate bodies, and to the several districts. The local taxes or district rates are col- lected from each individual, at the rating of one penny in the pound, according to the quantity of land and other property he may possess, agreeably to the assessed value fixed by law, viz. : — Every acre of arable, pasture, or meadow land, £1 ; every acre of uncultivated land, 4/8.; every town lot, £50. Every house built with timber squared or hewed on two sides, of one story, with not more than two fire- places, £20; ditto for every additional fire-place, £4. Every house built of squared or flatted timber on two sides, of two stories, with not more than two fire-places, £30; ditto for every additional fire-place, £8. Every framed house under two stories in height, with not more than two fire-places, £35; ditto for every additional fire-place, £5. Every brick or stone house of one story, and not more than two fire-places, £40; every additional fire-place, £10. Every framed brick or stone house of two stories, and not more than two fire-places, £60; ditto for every additional fire-place, £10. Every grist mill, wrought by water, with one pair of stones, £150 ; ditto with every additional pair, £50. Every saw-mill, £100. Every merehant's shop, £200. Every store- house, £200. Every stone house, £199. Every horse of the age of three years and upwards, £8. Oxen of the age of four years and upwards, £4. Milch cows, £3. Horned cattle, from two to four years and upwards, £4. Every close carriage with four wheels, kept for pleasure, £100. Every open car- riage, or curricle, ditto, £25. Every other carriage, or gig, with two wheels, ditto, £20. Every waggon kept for ij'.casure, £15. Every stove erected and used in a room j.,\ Xi'i,-^'-«: . 34,207 18 1 MI«eKllAni>niii« Wnrkii . . 31,007 11 2 LoMK* liy I'ulilio Works «nH uttwrwiM' .... 112,288 14 7 7 10 7 6 Loehoft amd Conah on tM* St. Im trtn e i. Mu. of io«k«. Otul MIIm. TtiD OiillappM Point Irouuoi* Hapiilc Plat FarrcnV Point Cornwall Canal Bfauhamoi* a 1 9 1 7 9 22 3 ill} 33 1 lUllfltN Currency £4,006,207 9 HtorilnR at 34i. 4rf. £.3,703,781 9 4 Jifliliimilori/ Bomarkt. • ThoM ('Html* art' thn Lachine, Beauhamoii, Cornwall, ami lliri'P umallcr (uioii. "The works have buKli oniKlrilctt'il" anyn Mr, Hinckii, "in the moat •uliataiillal tnnnnpr, nnil they are unequalled on the Ani«rlr Ch ioui.' .'ist by tliti failure nf a house in Lonaun huiue years ago, (Tlionins W;iMm and Co., for £GC,040) and losses by vxchange and otherwise. Up to tli« lut of July, 1844, there has bi'an cx|iiMi(l('(l on the improvements of the Kt, LuwrciU'C, i;325,57(); including Beau- liirnoiN Citiuil, 4*168,281; Lachine Canal, .t4B,41()) Cornwall Canal, to June, 1843, £67,110 J Liiko 8t. Peter, £32,893. The aasots of the province coniiit of the public worki which may fairly bo valued at £4,000,000 RtcrlinK. The entire revoniia from those worka, after do ii < ti> ; .titO.OOO currency per annum, " ^' iv" or. My appro- priated as a sinkinr ''•in 1 ',. .' <* . .< niption of the debt innu , >^ in I'teir en latruction. £44,000 ia alio J i9a». lit of Canada at £4,500,000 currency, and the popidation at 1,500.000, the proportioti of public f ' ' Tue by each individual i» fifty' one shiuiij/s; taking the debt of (ireat Britain and Ireland at £80(),00(),0(X), and the population at 28,000,000, the pr<)|«)rtion of public debt due by each individuul in tho United Kingdom, ia Jive hundred niui ui'tnly- one shillings. And it must be roniurked, that while Canada has provided u sinking fund, which at compound interest would in a given period pay oft' her whole doht, Kng- I land has no sinking fund, haa iiu iiaaeta to 331 of the tied at ■cvcnue ;;t(),iK)() n|tpro- iiiption rui'tion. kitk of account Out of the con- * ttat««» JO trunit- « <\f the ; at the 1,000, to ; ftiiid of I ihowing rvnuo of )f half a n of the one more a iinking MtH debt; ■en to Mill (Into the debt of and the •enoy, the man and a \ kinf; the |n((dom of 1,000,000, 1,000, the w yearn oj tie (I' l)t , , and the nortioti of ' al i« 0y' of (ireat i,()|M)rti<)n fuiil in tho ni »n'tnly- rcnmrkwl, II ninking would in rlcht, '^nR- .liwetii to BANKING ESTABLISHMENTS OP CANADA. 158 rr present ita debt, and haa provided no meau^ for the ultimate liquidation of her <1cht. jlie population of (^anada i« increaaiug with won '"rful rapidity ; property in aug- menting ui .ahm faster than population, for tlie waste laridi of tlif province are every day being converted from U8cli9i« areas, into product! (! fields ; and nlesacd with uiteriinl peace, and proteott^d ugaimni foreigu aggrex- sion by its being a part of a great empire interested in its preservation, and lealous interest at 4 per ^tut , for its integrity and honour, Canada uay | The debt in F,/;«liiii look forward to the fulfilment of ;iil its obligations, and to a high career ot (iros- perity. The debt and liabilities of Canatla are thus ■tated in the " Blue Book" for 1816:— In England— hen'mff intereit at A per cent, by debenture!, exoliuive of the Kuaranteed luan, £1,068,370. In Canada — vii.: in Upper Canada d bentiin*, k.id debentures of Canada, £328,772. By " Upper Canada " debentur , are understood those issued brfore the n uon of the provinces, in 1840-41, under actK >f tha Upper Canadian legislature. " Canad<. de- bentures" are those issued ttince theuiaon, under acts of the united legislaturf*- Provincial Debentures of Lower Can; la, vested in Trustees for Works (the inten st only li(>iug guur«nt.eed by the province, and all paying «!\c«|»t die first two) : — Cliainbly Canal, £.>5aV)I>, Turnpike TrustH, Uuebec, t';5K.S50 =. £ta4y850 tu per cent., £4,130; LuiiKuea mm! Chwnbly Trust, £16,000; MoiitrwJ Harbour, £go,Q25 , Turnpike Trust*, Montreal £47.000 = £221,775 intt nut paid by I'orinnissioiii-rs. Redetuplion of Puhlii '^t — Being balance to meet rise or fall in liaiigc, t;.'),276. New Englith />«/« 3()3,(K»() sterling, l."H l(w. Wid. it ^ per ttittt. per annum; of tin- /"V2H,7; c b) Canada debenturos, £lH,!i: ' liears iterr^ at 6 per cent. ; £175,1 12 <". per , ui t;o,000 at 5} per cenit.; and tt rruui '< ; at rates varying from 2 to (i r <'i>n tecordin^ to the age of tl (»<>. in 1855, je400,(XX); in 1857. 1858, £45,500 ; in 1868, i" £121,000 = £1,068,375. The Canadian loan ' redeemable at different i' year 1847 to 187*, in ^< £4 \580 is payable. 1'ankino Institutions. — 1\. of .he monetary institutions ot will be seen from the foUowinpr n- •!•) i»h loan mable; ■A; in in 1866, Banking Return*, 3\it January, 1840, compiled j ■mi the Return* laidbefii-' the Provitu ms LlabilitiM, Aiuti, &c. LUblUtiM:— Promiaaory Notea in circula- tion not bearing intermt BilU and Notea in circulation bearing intereat .... Balance due to other Banka . Caah Depoaita not bearing in- tereat Caah Depoaita bearing intereat Total average of Liabilitiea Aaaeta: — Coin and Bullion Landed and other Property of the Bank OoTomment Seouritiea . , Promiaaory Notea or Billa of other Banka Bnlancea due from Banka and foreign agenta Notea and Billa diacounted, or other debta due to the Bank not above included . . . Total arerage of Aascta 291,420 §.§• £ 32,144 12,2M 21,386 23,372 89,167 10,339 13,126 8,447 1,486 263,022 'a £ 240,286 30,4S1 154,731 67380 502,351 155,049 45,455 10,200 20,681 31,732 1,096,996 I a. O J £ £ 157,040 '' 149,610 12,129 l.V"i92 27,663 242,233 1,360,0 3 52,.396 23,206 11,019 34,406 666,673 679,690 34^67 76,949 11,068 1574 - .365 31,935 13 082 16,942 664,4.69 652,783 I £ 44,911 36,653 16300 97364 15,904 6,600 658 3 a b £ 116,001 3314 19343 18,092 167360 20314 12.341 96,750 13367 4,296 10,357 166,417 205,776 304,186 467305 i n I £ 66,363 12,9911 18,167/ 97311 13338 53i'' 7,946 21,965 169,093 217,646 'A Is {28,77* is frti a the laHt year und ^tate ■ province £. 185334 16,203 161,978 364315 84294 20357 19,041 854317 979.109 Total*. ^^ \ 109309 712,068 1,822365 379,489 137388 117,96(1 91,446 139316 3377363 4343,451 iVo<«.— The return under the head " Notea and Billa diacounted," for the Gore Bank includea a claim of £40,000 on the eatate of Reid. Irving, and Co., of London. — City Bank Billa of Exchange, £3363. vol.. I. X I' i> 154 TilONETARY CIRCULATION. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. The circulation per month of the Canadiim banks, is about il ,300,000 to £1,500,00(\ The average circulation of the Bank of Montreal, is £500,000; City bank of Mon- treal, £230,000; Commercial bank, Midland District, £200,000; Bank of Upper Canada, €200,000; Gor<^ bank, £100,000; Quebec bank, £80,000; Banque du fcuple, £85,000; Bank of British North America, branches, £250,000. All the banks issue notes as low as 5«. There is no provincial metallic currency ; the amount of British coin in circulation cannot be ascertained; it is small in proportion to the entire circulating me- dium ; the Canadians, like the Scotch, prefer their own bank notes to metal. There are several Savings' Banks in Canada. The Montreal Savings' Bank owes to de- positors ..... £84,366 Montreal City and District do. do. . 44,560 The Quebec SProvident and do. do. . 31,772 The Hamilton and Gore do. do. . 5,745 Total . . £166,443 The British America Fire and Life Assu- rance Company has a subscribed capital stock of £100,000, of which £35,000 has been paid on 7,989 shares. The amount of property insured against fire during the year ending 31st of January, 18 19, was £800,30."). The premium received, £6,737 ; amount of losses paid during same period, £3,243; losses under adjudgment, 1,363 ; present liability under 1,170 policies, £727,489; insured against dangers of navigation, £173,406; premium received for the year, £3,326; losses paid, £2,258; losses under iidjudgment, £1,000. The St. Latvrence Inland Marine Assurance Company, has a I subscribed capital of £100,000, of which ! £15,000 is paid up. Property insured I during 1848, £433,407; premium on ditto, I £5,996; losses paid during the year, £3,009; losses under adjudgment, £900. I Monies. — Accounts are kept in Halifax currency, by which a guinea (weighing 5 dwts. and 6 grs.) is equal to 2-k'». 4 ii iin the only means of fostering such a national feeling throughout them aa would eifectually counterbalance wliatever ten- dencies may now exist towards separation. No large community of free and intelligent men will long feel contented with a political system which places them, because it places their country in a position of infe- riority to their neighbours. The colonist of Great Britam is linked, it is true, to a mighty empire; and the glories of its history, the visible signs of its pre- sent power, and the civilization of its people, are cal- culated to raise and gratify his national pride. But he feels, also, that his link to that empire is one of remote dependence; he catches but passing and in- adequate glimpses of its power and prosperity; he knows thai in its government he and his own countrymen have no voice. While his neighbour on the other side of the frontier assumes impor- tance from the notion that his vote exercises some in- fluence on the councils, and that he himself has some share in the onward progress of a mighty nation, the colonist feels the deadening influence oi the narrow and subordinate community to which he belongs. In his own and in the surrounding colonies, he finds petty objects occupying petty, stationary, and divided societies ; and it is only when the chances of an un- certain and tardy communication bring intelligence of what has passed a month before on the other side of the Atlantic that he is reminded of the empire with which he is connected. But the influence of the United States surrounds him on every side, and is for ever present. It extends itself as population aug- ments and intercourse increases; it penetrates even* portion of the continent into which the restless spirit of American speculation impels the settler or the trader ; it is felt in all the transactions of commerce, from the important operations of the monetary system down to the minor details of ordinary traffic; it stamps, on all the habits and opinions of the sur- rounding countries, the common characteristics of the thoughts, feelings, and customs of the American people. Such is necessarily the influence which a great nation exercises on the small communities which surround it. Its thoughts and manners sub- jugate them, even when nominally independent of its authority. If we wish to prevent the extension of this influence, it can only be dene by raising up for the North American colonist some nationality of his own; by elevating these small and unimportant com- munities into a society having some objects of a national importance; and by thus giving their inhab- itants a country which they will be unwilling to see absorbed even into nne more powerful. "While I believe that the establishment of a com- prehensive system of government, and of an effectual union between the different provinces, would produce this important effect on the general feelings of their inhabitants, I am inclined to attach very great im- portance to the influence which it would have in giving greater scope and satisfaction to the legitimate arr.bition of the most active and prominent persons to be found in them. As long as personal ambition is inherent in human nature, and as long as the morality of every free and civilized community en- courages its aspirations, it is one jjreat business of a wise government to provide for its legitimate de- velopment. If, as it is commonly asserted, the disorders of these Colonies have, in great measurp .t R IM OPINIONS OP LORD DURHAM ON FEDERAL UNION. been rimiatitoil liy tha Influenoe of dnignlng knd ARibltiou* InillvliliitU, llila (vll will bent be remedied by ■ItnwinR mich • mii|M) fnr thi> deilrei of Huch men HI ihitll dirtiiit th«lr ■mbition into the letptimate clianou uf flirtlivriiiKi ind not of thwarting, their Kuvummcnt, lly erontlng high pri».'R in a general and riiii|iiinNllilti Knynrnmunt, wo ahall immediately aifnrd thw nifann tii tmciiying the turbulent ambitiona, and of «ni|ilnvlni( In worthy and noble occupations the talenU wlil«h now aro only exerted to foment diaordnr. Wn mimt remove from thcie Colonies the cauMi to which thn angncity of Adam Smith traced the allenntlnn of the prorlnces which now form the IJnltfd Htatfsi wo niual provide some scope for what he ualla ' thn Importanco ' of the leading men in the colony, bcyiind what lie forcibly terms the present 'iM'tly prlmia of iIki paltry raffle of colonial fact! ^.' A gtJiittral IrglaJNlivn union would elevate and gra ..^ tlia hopes ofnlilii and naplring men. They would no longiir look wllli nnvv ntid wonder at the great arena of tlm bordering ft'tleratlon, but see the means of sallafying itv<>ry li rived from it, were placed under the control jf tht provincial legislatures, it would still be advisable that the management of the Poat-offloa thrnughniit the whole of British North America should be conducted by one general establishment. In the same wav, so great is the influence on the other provinces of the arrangements adopted with respect to the disposal ni public lands and colonization in any one, that it Is absolutely essential that this department of govern- ment should be conducted on one system, andliy one authority. The necessity of common flacal regida- tions is strongly felt by all the colonies; ond a com- mon custom-house establishment would relieve Ihem from the hindrances to their trade, caused by the duties now levied on all commercial inlercouriiv between them. The monetary and banking av'tern of all is subject to the same influences, and ouulit to be regulated by the same laws. The eatublianment of a common colonial currency is very generally desired. Indeed, I know of no dopartmetit of gov- ernment that would not {greatly gain, both in eco- nomy and cfflciency, bv bemg placed under a common management. I snould not propose, at flrst, to altiir the existing public establishments of the dilferent firovinces, because the necessary changes had better )e left to be made by the united governmiMili and the judicial establishments should certiiliily not he disturbed until the future legislature aliull provide for their reconstruction on an uniform and permanent footing. But even in the administration of Justice, an union would immediately supply a remedy Tor on* of the most serious wants under which all the pro- vinces labour, by facilitating the formation of a gene- ral appellate tribunal for all the Nurih American colonies. " But the interests which are already in common between all these provinces are small in comparison with those which the consequences of such an union might, and I think I may say assuredly would, call into existence; and the great discoveries of modern art, which hove, throughout the world, and nowhere more than in America, entirely altered the oliurncter and the channels of communicatin butueon distant countries, will bring all the North American coliinles into constant and speedy intercourxe with each other. The success of the great expcrimi'iit nf steam naviga- tion across the Atlantic, opens o prospect of a speedy communication with Europe, wliicli will materially affect the future state of nil these provinces. In a despatch which arrived in Canada after my departure, the Secretary of State informed mo of the detcrmina tion of your Mojcsty's govenmient to esliiblish a steam communication between Qreut llriluin and Halifax; end instructed me to turn my attention to the formation of a road between thut port end Quebec. It would, indeed, have given mo sincere aatialaetioM, had I remained in the province, to promote, bv any means in my power, so highly desirable an olpjeet ; and the removal of the usual restrictions on my authority as governor-general, having given nie tlir means of effectually acting in concert with the various provincial governments, I might have been able to moke some progress in the wow. But I ciuinot point out more strikingly the evils of the present want of a general government for these provinces, than by adverting to the difficulty which. would practically occur, under the previous and present arrangements of both executive and legislative authorities In thu various provinces, in attempting to carry such a plan into effect. For tlie variou* coloniea havs no mora RESPONSIBLE OR CONSTITUTIONAL GOVERNMENT IN N. SCOTIA. Ifl7 meaiu of concerting iiuoh common worki with each other, than with the noiK^houring itatei of the union. They itand to one another in the poiition of foreign ttatet, and of foreign itatcs without diplomatic rela- tion!. The frovernon may corriipond with each other: the Icgtslaturet may enact lawi, carryinfj^ the common purpoHea into effect in their respective juris- dictional but there is no means by which tlie various details may speedily and satisfoctorily be settled with the concurrence of the difiorent parties. And, in this instance, it must be recollected that the communica- tion and the final settlement would have to be made between, not two, but several of the provinces. The road would run through three of them; and Upper Canada, into which it would not enter, would, in fact, be more interested in the completion of such a work than any even of the provinces through which it would pass. The colonies, indeed, have no common centre in which the arrangement could bo made, except in thii Colonial Office at home; and the details of such a plan would have to bu discussed just where the interests of all parties would have the least means of being fairly and fully represented, and where the minute local knowledge necessary for such a matter would be least likely to be found. " The completion of any satisfactory communica- tion between Halifax and Quebec, would, in fact, produce relations between these provinces, that would render a general union absolutely necessary. " With respect to the two small colonies of Prince Edward's Island and Newfoundland, I am of opinion, that not only would most of the reasons which I have S'ven for an union of the others, apply to them, but at their smollness makes it absolutely necessary, as (he only means of securing any proper attention to their interests, and investing them with that con- sideration, the deficiency of which they have so much reason to lament in all the disputes which yearly occur between them and the citizens of the United States, with regard to the cncroachmenta made by the latter on their ooasU and fisheries." When her majesty's government sent Mr. P. Thomson, in 18^10, to effect an union between the two Cunadas, he was instructed to ascertain the state of affairs in Nova Scotia, and a full discretion was left to him as governor-general, respecting any mea- sures he might recommend. The circular letter of Lord John Russell, of 16th Octo- ber, 1839 (see History of Canada, p. 38), relating to the tenure of ofiSces during vhe pleasure of the crown, was commimicated by the lieutenant-governor, sir Colin Campbell, to the Nova Scotia House of Assembly, and eagerly hailed as a recognition of their claims for responsible government, and as impos- ing henceforth on the lieutenant-governor the obligation of dismissing or remodelling his council whenever it ceased to enjoy the, con- fidence of the representatives of the people. The House of Assembly, therefore, on 5th February, 1840, by a majority of 30 to 12, passed a series of resolutions, and forwarded them to the lieutenant-governor, who de- clined to adopt a policy which he considered would be a fundamental ohaugo in the colo- nial constitution. The following is a copy of the address of the Hoiue of Assembly : — " To his Excellency Lieutenant-Oeneral Sir Colin Campbell, Lieutenant-Qnvcmor and Comman- der-in-Chief in and over Her Majesty's province of Nova Scotia and its dependencies, &c. &o. &o. " The humble Address of the House of llepresenta- tives in General Assembly. " May it please your Excellency, "We, Her M^'esty'a dutiful and loyal subjects, the representatives of HerMsiesty's loyal people of Nova Scotia, having, under a solemn sense of duty, passed the annexed resolutions, beg leave to recommend them to your Excellency's favourable consideration. " In the House of Assembly, 8th Februaiy, 1840. " Mr. Clements, the Chairman of the Committee of the whole house on the general state of the province, reported the following resolutions: — " Rutohed, — 1. That it is the opin'"' ' '' .m- mittee that for many years the b(. ' i^ province have been jeopardized, i . itrress retarded, by the want of harmony betwi'en iiiu dif- ferent branches of the Oovemraunt, and the absence of thot cordial co-operation between the representa- tives of the people and those who conducted the local administration, which, in the view of this Committee, is highly desirable, if not indispensable, in every British colony to which a constitution modelled after that of the motlier country has been granted by the Crown. " Reiolvtd, — 2. Thot it is the opinion of this Com- mittee that in the course of the struggle which since 1837 the House of Assembly has maintained, with a view to reduce the expenses, improve the institutions, and purify the administrntion of the country, it has been met at every step by an influence which, while it was beyond the control of the Assembly, has wielded the whole power and patronage of the gov- ernment to baffle its efforts, and thwart the wise and benevolent policy avowed by Her Majesty's ministers. " lieaulvetl, — S. That it is the opinion of tliis Com- mittee that in approachinfi[ many of the important questions to be disposed of m the present session, the House of Assembly feels embarrassment and diffi- culty which it would be unwise to conceal either from the Government or the country ot large; and that it can anticipate no satisfactory settlement of those questions until the Executive Council is so remodelled as to secure to the House of Assembly the aid of the local Administration in carrying out the views of the Assembly, and in facilitating any negotiation which it may be necessary to conauct with Her Majesty's Government "Setolved, therefore, 4. That it is the opinion of the Committee that the House of Assembly, after mature and calm deliberation, weary of seeing the revenues of the country and the time of its representatives wasted, the people of Nova Scotia misrepresented to the Sorvereign, and the gracious boons of the Sove- reign marred in the transmission to the people, do now solemnly declare that the Executive Council, as at present constituted, does not enjoy the confidence of the Commons." On the 9th of July, 1840, the governor- general arrived from Quebec at Halifax, and in obedience to the commands of the queen, temporarily assumed the government i 1^'» 'lit' t> J !»»SM,.^ lH«' ,.l'4.i .iy.A\ ..t ^ ii, ty . CHAPl'ER II. AREA, PHYBICAT- ASPECT, HIGHLANDS, LAKES, RIVERS, HARBOURS, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, SOIL, CLIMATE, DISEASES, AND MORTALITY. Nova Scotia haa a smaller oroa than any of the British North American provinces, except Prince Edward's Island, but its im- portance as a naval station, its geographical ^d peninsular position, numerous harbours, extensive coal-fields^ and lucrative fisheries, confer on the colony a value &r superior to that to which it is entitled by its mere terri- torial extent, which is about 15,517 square miles. Above 3,000 square miles are stated, to be occupied by lakes and rivers of various shapes and sizes, so distributed that there is no point in the province 80 miles from navigable water. The number of Dmall lakes is very great, especially on the southern side of the peninsula; nearly a hundred are to be found between Halifax and St. Marga- ret's Bay, scattered over a tract of countxy not exceeding 20 miles in length or breadth. The face of the country is pleasingly diver- sified with hill and dale, but the elevations are of inconsiderable height; the highland ranges seldom exceed 600 feet above the level of the sea, and nm through the country genei-ally fronj E- to W. Bouchctto states, that the highest hills do not exceed 600 feet ; but Major Robinson, who surveyed a large portion of the province in the year 1848, states, that the Cobequid Hills, which extend along the N. shore of the Bay of Mines, and very nearly across to the shore at the Straits of Northumberland, average in height from 800 to 1,000 feet, the lowest point being found at Folly I^ake, 600 feet above the sea. In breadth the range pre- serves a nearly uniforn^ width of about 10 miles. A belt of broken land, whose height averages about 500 feet, and whose breadth varies from 20 to 60 miles, runs along the shores washed by the Atlantic from Cape Canso to Cape Sable, occasionally forming bold clifis on the coast, the most remarkable of which is Aspotagocn, ))ctwccn Malipne and Margaret's Bay. Another ridge extends on the W. coast, between Argyle and St. Mary's Bay; and, as before observed, a more lofty and extensive range skirts the Bay of li'undy, from Annapolis to Mines Basin. VOL. ?. Lakes. — Of the numerons lakes the largest is Lake Rosignol, which is said to be 80 miles in length, and is situate partly in each of the three counties of Queen's, Shelbum, and Annapolis. It is the source of the Liverpool ttiver — the Mersey ; and vx the same section of country there are severid other lakes, approaching within a short dis- tance of the Mersey, and communicating with the head of Allan's River, running into Annapolis Bay. Lake George, another lake of considerable size, and 70 or 80 small ones, are situate in the township of Yarmouth. A chain of lakes stretches from the head of the river Shubenacadie nearly to the harbour of Halifax, and, with the Shubenacadie Canal, completes the water communication quite across the province. Similar chains of lakes exist between Windsor and St. Margaret's Bay, between the head of the Avon and Chester, and between the river Gaspereaux in King's County, and Gold River, in the county of Lunenburg. Rivers. — The two principal rivers in the province are, the Shubenacadie before men- tioned, and the Annapolis: the former takes its rise in Grand Lake, in the county of Halifax, and after a rapid and circuitous course, the length of which has not yet been accurately ascertained, it disembogues in Cobequid Bay. This fine stream is navi- gable for large vessels some distance into the interior, its banks are adorned with exten- sive groves of lofty timber, and contain inexhaustible stores of gypsum and lime; the scenery is pictui-esque; — varied by the abrupt frowning cliff with its woody summit, the verdant and cultivated vale, the wilderness with its deep solitudes, and the busy hum of civilized society. The rise and ftdl of the tide at the mouth of this river is about 50 feet. The Annapolis takes its rise in the town- ship of Cornwallis, in King's Countv, and after a long and serpentine route falls into Annapolis Bay; having previously reicevcd the waters of the Moose and Bear Rivers. It is navigable for largo vessels for 20 miles above Annapolis, and 40 above Digby, and II i III t f!a ii 170 RIVERS AND HARBOURS OP NOVA SCOTIA. fbr large boats to a much greater distance. At Pictou the East, West, and Middle Rivers, all three navigable for large vessels, empty themselves into the harbour. The Avon receives the waters of the St. Croix, Kennetcook, and several others, and empties itsetf into the Bay of Mines; it is navigable for a considerable distance : at Windsor the rise and MI of the Avon is 20 feet at neap, and 30 at spring tides. The country along the banks of the Avon is extremely oeautiful ; the liixuriance of the meadows; the frequent changes of scenery; the chain of high hills on the S. and W., clothed with variegated foliage, and the white sails of vessels passing rapidly through the serpentine winctings of the Avon and St. Croix, ai« some of the leading features of the landscape. A bridge has been com- menced to span the Avon at Windsor, where the extreme breadth is 1,060 feet. There is a small militaiy post on elevated land at Windsor, called Fort Edward, in honour of his Royal Highness the late Duke of Kent. The fort is advantageously placed, and com- mands the entrance of both rivers. The La Have, Mersey, and Medway ; the Shelbume (which forms the line harbour of that name) ; tiie Clyde, which is considered one of the most beautiful rivers in Nova Scotia; the Tusket, with its numerous branches; the St. Mary, which crossing nearly the whole county of Sydney from N. to S., forms the harbour of St. Mary ; the Maccan, Nappan, and Oaspcreaux; the Mus- qnedoboit, S^e, and Jordan ; these are but a few selected m>m the multitude of rivers, many of which nearly equal them in mag- nitude, whose streams fertilize and adorn the province. It is a singular fact, that while the tide rises with extraordinary ra- pidity to the height of 75 feet in the Bay of Mines and Chignecto, it does not rise more than 6 feet in Pictou Harbour on the south shore. The Gut of Canso, which separates Nova Scotia from the island of Cape Breton, is 21 miles in length, and varies from I to li in breadth. The land rises boldly on either side, and the strait beuig the most convenient passage to and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is crowded during the sum- mer and autumn with vessels of every description, which, together with the cot- tages of the little villages, situate on its banks, produce a pleasing effect. Harbourt. — In number, capacity, and se- curity, the harbours of Nova Scotia are unsurpassed, if not uiicquaUed, by those of any other country of similar extent. Among the most remarkable on the northern shores may be mentioned, Pictou Harbour, which is as famous for its beauty as for its extent ; Wallace Bay, navigable for vessels of the largest size, more than 6 miles; Fugwash Bay, in wluch ships of the first class can anchor within 20 yards of the shore ; and St. George's Bay. On the S. and S. E. the noble harbour of Halifr tands pre-eminent. It is situated nearly midway between the eastern md western extremities of the pen- insula, and its favourable position, easy entrance, accessibility at all seasons (its narigation being very rarely impeded by ice, as that of Quebec is annually), and capacity of affording safe anchorage for a thousand ships, have rendered it our chief naval station in North America. Shelbume Harbour is exceedingly capacious, and per- fectly secure. Margaret's Bay is 12 miles in depth, and tram 2 miles at its entrance to 6 in width ; Mahone Bay, in Lunenburg County, is equally secure and extensive. Liverpool Harbour affords good anchorage ; County Harbour is navigable for the largest ships for 10 miles bora its entrance ; Canso forms an excellent harbour, and Chedabucto Bay, 25 miles in length and 15 in breadth, is navigable throughout for the largest ships, and in its several smaller harbours affords safe anchorage. Between Halifax and Cape Canso are 12 ports, capable of receiving ships of the line, and there are 14 others of sufficient depth for merchantmen. The principal harbours on the northern shores in the Bay of Fundy are St. Mary's Bay, the beautifril Basin of Annapolis, which is described by Sir John Harvey as a noble estuary sheltered by mountain ranges, open- ing to the Bay of Fundy through a narrow gorge, navigable by large vessels, and acces- sible at all seasons of the year. Although this part of the country is comparatively but recently settled, the shores of this basin, for an extent of 30 miles, are highly culti- vated, and present many traits of natural beauty and advanced civilization, of which the people are justly proud. Mines Basin, a continuation of the Bay of Fundy, whose tides of 60 feet in height rush through the strait between Cape Blomedon and Parrs- borough, and then expand over a broad basin, which washes the shores of four of the most fertile of the inland counties, re- ceives into its bosom 19 rivers, and having a powerful ebb and flow, affords singular facilities for navigation. Chignecto Channel In divisi( ! GEOLOGICAL STRATA OP NOVA SCOTIA. 171 and Cnmberland Basin likewise form har- bours of less importance. The governor of Nova Scotia, in his re- port to Earl Grey in 1848, rightly remarks, that these harbours were obvioTisly never intended by Providence solely for the use of the inhabitants of Nova Scotia, who are already becoming to a large extent the carriers to Canada of tropical and foreign productions, and it is confidently anticipated that these fine havens will become cntre- pdts for the extensive adjacent inland regions. Geologf. — ^Nova Scotia is marked by four geological divisions, which reach nearly across from S.W. to N.E., and ran in a longitudinal direction with the greatest dia- meter of the country. The S. side of Nova Scotia, bordering on t1 '^ Atlantic, and form- ing a narrow strip from Cape Sable to Cape Canso, is composed principally of granite, gneiss, and mica slate. The second division, which is three to four times the breadth of the first, and extends from Ct^e St. Mary to Chedabucto Bay, is composed of slate, greywacke, and greywacke slate. The third is a trap district, and forms a narrow slip from Briar Island to Mines Basin, including the whole of the North Mountains, and the islands, &c., on the Nova Scotia shore of the Bay of Fumdy. The fourth is a red sand- stone district, and extends &om the Gut of Canso, along the Northumberland Straits. The different formations in Nova Scotia correspond with those of the United States. In both countries they extend from N.E. to S.W., nearly parallel to the Atlantic coast, having the transition and secondary rocks placed to the northward and westward of the primary formations. The geological divisions of Nova Scotia, as above laid down by Dr. Gesner in his valuable work, are sub- ject to various irregularities and deviations ; but a section of the strata, extending from Halifiix across the province to Cumberland Basin, would expose a greater variety of rocks and minerals placed in regidar order than has yet been discovered in any country of similar magnitude. The fossil remains found in the mountain-limestone, transition- slate, &c., are extremely curious. The palm tree, the bamboo, and the cactus, have been dug from the rocks and coal-seams, indicat- ing that Nova Scotia at one time enjoyed a tropictd climate. The order of succession of the difiTerent strata of rocks in Nova Scotia is thus given by G. R. Young :— Natiu e of Bocka and Soili. Alluvial : A regetaUe aoO. GntTel, land, and clay, eon- taioing the boueiaf wiiauUf now existing. Dilmtiat: beds of graTel and rounded pejblea, containing bones of animals now existing (diluT. detritus). Tertiarj/: Thin beds of limestone and marl, containing ammonites and other shells. Beds of clay, limestone, and marl, containing the remains of land and marine plants and ai imals. Oolitic: i ^\j\i . Brown sand. SlatT limestoii' , with ahdb. Marly clay Limestone with shells. Hard clay Compact UsMitaiM ud Oolite. Trap; Trap rocks. Greenstone, amygdaloid, and toadstone, containing gems and neolites. Sand»Kme, neu> red: Sandstone of a bright red co- lour, containing beds of gyp- sum, and sometimes rock ■alt. Coal groi^i — Secondary rocki : Limestone, containing mag- nesia. Coal measures, con- sisting of sandstone, coal, shale, iron-stones and lime- stone, in alternations often repeated, ooataining the re- mains of sereral msses of tropical plants, marine, and fluviatile shells. Millstone grit. O. red old U. landit. limeit. : Beds of limestone, slate, clay, and sandstone. Dark red sandstone, with beds of pebbles. Primary tramition : Slate, greywacke slate, and quarts rock,somet>mei~ alter- nating with transition lime- stone, containing marins or- ganic remains. Mica slate. Gneiss. Granite of sereia) rarietics. ETfrywhcrc. Valley of Annapolif i Kiug's. *|r ■•i;< ■ ?;» ■^^^' be Where found ■i The surface of the red sandstone district gen». nOly. Gay's river, and some parts of Curaberiand. Bawdon, Douglas, and some parts of Colchea- ter. Shubenaeidie liitt ■ 'WindIO|^ Economy. Onslow, Pictou, Cumbaf - land, Parrsboionah. Ijondonderry, Wudaor Nepvan. The North Mountains, capes, and islands near Pamborongh. Windsor, Itawdon, Doug^ las, Fictoii, Cumb^ land. Shubenacadie, Cumber- land. Pomket, Pictoa, Onslow Cumberland. Pictou, Cnmberland. Onslow, Fictou, Horton. Horton, Falmoulh^ fte- tou. ChedabM^ Bay, Halifax, AViadsor Road, Lunen- burgh, Yarmouth, form- ing a belt running lengthwise the pro- vinoe^and occupying a large tract of country. Cape Canso, Halifax,Mar- garct's Bay, Lunen- burgh, Shelbume.form- ing the south coast of tlie prorince. Grey granite prevails along the shore; trap-rocks, sometimes interstratificd with clay-slate, protrude in various places in immeiise parallel ridgin above the surfacej 9jmm 172 GEOLOGY, SOIL, AND MINERALS OF NOVA SCOTIA. and frequently in piles of loose masses heaped confusedly together, traversed fre- quently by veins of quartz. Near Liver- pool, says Dr. Gesner, the whole face of the country is covered with white granite masses; some of large abd regular dimensions, re- sembling, at a distance, huts and other rude buildings; in some places the resemblance is so perfect, that they might be mistaken for a dbserted village. Within four miles of Halifax is a granite rock, seventy-five feet in circumference, weighing upwards of one hundred and fifty tobs, poised so evenly on a flinty base of twelve inches, that the Strength of one hand suffices to put it in motion. Several extensive and bcautifid grottos are to be found in different parts of the coast ; one at Pictou is 100 feet long and G feet wide, with beautiful stalactites sus- pended from the roof; and a cavern at the Bay of Fundy, with a narrow entrance to- wards the sea, contains magnificent halls, apparently adorned with brilliant gems. In the old red sandstone near the town of Lunbnburg, tavities, called "ovells," have been made by the sea ; into these the waves rush with great violence, and the air being confined bursts out, carrying the spray be- fore it trith a noise and appearabce like the spoiiting of ftb enormous whale, ^hese " ovens " are supposed by some Americans to be the nests of the " sea-serpents " seen near Boslotl, Clay-slate is found in the eastern section of the colony ; it is generally of a very fine quality, and used as building stone at Halifax. Greywacke, and grey- wacke-slate, in which are found beds of limestone and numeroils species of specular iron ore, extend ialong both shores of Cheda- bucto Bay. The grindstones so much esteemed in the United States, and known as " Nova Scotia blue grits," are obtained frotti a stratum of sandstone, whieh is found between the coal and limestone j they afford a valuable branch of trade to the colony. Connected with carboniferous limestone are the valuable coal-fields of Nova Scotia, which, toge^er with those of Cape BiWton (now working), aflbrd sufficient of this im- portant mineral to supply the whole conti- nent of America. Major Robinson, of the Royal tlngineiers,in his able report, dated HaUfax, 3l8t August, 1848, on the proposed line of railway from Halifax, through New Brunswick to Que- bec, says that indications of coal are met with in abundance from the banks of Gay's Bivor (twenty miles from Halifax) up to the Restigouche River, and along the shores of the Bay of Chaleurs. Tlie greatest and most valuable coal-field is that on the S. side of the harbour of Pictou, in Nova Scotia. The coal-field is stated to be about 100 square miles in extent — the seam varying in thick- ness from one to thirty-six feet. The coal is bituminous, and of good quality. Mines of it are extensively worked, and large ex- ports from them are made to the United States. The Cumberland coal district is inferior in importance only to that of Pic- tou: it is supposed to extend from the Macon River, W. of Amherst, over to Tat- magouche, in the Straits of Northumberland. Some mines of it have been recently opened> and promise to be very productive. Varieties of iron, copper, and lead ores have been met with ; marble, alabaster, and porphyry abound, and the vast internal wealth of this portion of the British domin- ions will probably render it at no distant day the great mining district of the " New World." Soil. — Tlie arable surface is of various quahty; there are extensive alluvial tracts producing as rich crops as any land in Eng-i land ; some of the uplands are sandy and poor, and on the S. coast it is so rocky as to be extremely difficult of cultivation, but when the stoues are removed excellent crops are obtained^ The heads bf rivers and the bends of bays on the N. coast afford many fertile tracts. The granite disappears alto-' gether, except at one or two places, at an average distance of 20 miles from the sea ; slate forming the basis of the upland in thd immediate rear, particularly in the centre of the province. Beyond this is the region of fertility — the soil being excellent, and stono (except quarries of grindstone and freestone in the counties of Pictou and Cumberland), rarely to be seen. There are three descrip- tions of land known in the husbandry of the province — upland, intervale, and marsh. The upland, in the counties of Inverness, Sydney, Pictou, Colchester, Cumberland^ Hants, King's, Annapolis, and Uigby, is generally fertile and free from stones. Sir John Harvey says t — " Along the banks of many rivers, drainin); these extensive tfatits, are found the intervales, being nar- row strips of light alluvial soil, above the head of the tide> and skirting the streams, until near their head- waters the mountains close in and make the devince where it prevailed was, — Strength. Died. At Kingston and Fort Henry . 677 8 Toronto . . . .317 10 Fort George . . .69 2 " As it ■'.as later in its appearance, so it Vias, in a corresponding degree, of longer continuance in the upper province, where coses occurred till the com- mencement of winter. Owing to the scattered state of the population, the prpcise extent of the mortality cannot be exactly ascertained i but at To- ronto, obout on eighth part was attacked, and of these, one-half died. At Bv Town, 49 deaths txiok place out of a populotion of 1,000, and in some of the smaller villages the mortality was even greater. " During 1833 no cases of cholera were observed i in May, 1834, a few were said to have occurred at Quebec immediately after the opening of the ports, 300. ofai by Its extensi hospit { rear of i as for I andsw directic and th exhalat garrisoi "Th( Wet is tains of are to 1 VOf,J ii I ow- tem Lben Uo( iiing ition rtion teoM have nonp ihabi- inex- idiedi poita. unicft- inthfl I much I died, lat the oxceed I troops i raged r out of ) out off progresa al were, imptnent inication ,e end of occurred however, aPnurie, f.U^ hospital were 336 1 deaths, 127; proportion of deaths to ad^us- sions 1 in 3. " One of the most extraordinary features of this epidemic is, that the proportion of deaths to re- coveries has been very nearly alike in all the Mili- tary Commands of which the medical records have been investigated, for instance: — Military Commouds. Amon({ CnvRlry in the United Kingdom, 1832, 1833, and 1834 . „ Troups in Gibraltar, 1831 „ „ Nova Scotia, &c. 1834 „ „ Canada, 1832 . „ „ Canada, 1834 „ Black Troops at Honduran, 1836 1 ^ , fi s < Q 171 64 459 131 210 69 259 94 97 33 62 20 Prop, of Deaths to Attacks. 10 in 32 10 „ 3 1 10 „ m 10 „ 28 10 „ 29 10 „ 31 " Thus, under all the modes of treatment which may have been adopted on these different occasions. with primeval forests, except for a short distance around the post. " Though this station is little more than one de- gree N. of Toronto, there is a vast difference in the climate; the winters are as severe and as long as those in Lower Canada ; snow falls about the middle of November, and continues till the beginning of May, and, in some instances, the whole lake is frozen till the end of that month. The summers are how- ever much cooler, and more agreeable than in either of the provinces. Notwithstanding the severity of this Climate, the troops have been healthy to an unprecedented degree; no death has taken place, except from accidents, since 1828, when the station was first occupied. Fevers are almost entirely un- known ; and in 1836, out of an average force of 42 men, only 4 cases of disease occurred which could fairly be attributed to climate; yet so sudden are the changes of temperature, that the thermometer has been known to fall from 40 deg. above to 13 deg. below zero, between midnight and sunrise." 2a ' 178 INDIAN CURE FOR CHOLERA— CHARCOAL. the proportion of dcatha to recoveries has not varied above onen-fourth, ahowin); that tho remedial mra- lurea hitherto emploved can have had little if any effect in counteracting the fatal character of the diseaae. '' In both theae veara, when thia epidemic pre- vailed, the native Indiani suffered from it to tho same extent as the white population. At three settlements from » hich Returns were received, about a twelfth part of the population died in 1832, and about half that proportion when it again prevailed in 1834. Although their principal remedy consisted in swallowing large quantities of charcoal mixed with lard, almost exactly the same proportion recovered as among the white Inhabitant* of the towns, who possessed every ad- vantage which the aid of medical science could augiest "In tracing the course of various epidemics of yel- low fever among our troops in other colonies, we have frequently noticed that all ranks were affected in nearly an equal degree ; the reverse was tho case, however, with cholera, particularlv in Canada, for not a single officer died, and only four were attacked during the' first, and three during the second epi- demic. The same peculiarity was observed during the prevalence of this disease in Nova Scotia, in 1834 I and in Gibraltar there were but two admis- sions and one death amnng the olticers, though there were 450 admissions and 131 deaths among the troops. This leads to the inference that though little can be done to ameliorate the character of the dis- ease when allowed to arrive at an advanced stage, yet that a generous diet, regular hnbits, and the de- gree of attention which persons in the higher ranks of life are likely to pay to its premonitory stages, have a powerful effect in dinii' ishing their hability to its influence. "The soldiers' wives suffcinl to almost precisely the same extent as the troops, but there was a marked exemption of their children from the severer forms of the disease, only seven cases and four deaths havinjg occurred among them on each occasion, though their numbers were between 700 and 800; a very large proportion, however, suffered from diarhcea during the prevalence of the epidemic, and many were cut off by it. " The following Tabic, compiled from the Age and Service Returns, furnished annually to the War Office, shows the influence of age on mortality bv thia disease among the troops ; — Ag. Strength. Deaths by Epiduinio Cholera. Total Strength for both yean. Total Deathi by Kpidemio Cholera, in both yean. Ratio of Deaths at each Aae by Kpidcnuo Cholera. 1832. 1834. 1832. 1834. Under 18 . . . 18 to 25 ... 25 to 33 ... 33 to 40 . . . 40 to 60 . . . 18 1,172 1,070 282 38 12 605 1,143 297 47 23 39 17 3 6 12 4 3 30 1,867 2,215 579 .85 29 61 21 6 165 23- 363 70-6 Total . . 2,380 2,196 82 25 4,776 107 22-4 " As the requisite Returns are not furnished by the Artillery, this Table refers to the deaths which took place among^ the troops of the line only ; but com- bined with similar results obtained in regard to those in Nova Scotia, it is sufiicient to establish that the fatal tendency of cholera increased rapidly with the advance of age. " In tracing the rise and progress of this disease, nothing is more remarkable than the regularity with which, on both occasions, it advanced along the prin- cipal chaimels by which the tide of emigration and of commerce flowed through the country ; take, for in- ■tance, its progress along the line of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. Pnaiteu of the Disease. Quebec 3 Riven, between Montreal and Qacbe<^ Montreal, 180 miles above Quebec . Kingston, 190 miles beyond Montreal Toronto, 184 miles beyond Kingston Fort George, 40 miles from Toronto Detroit Bud Amhertsbcrg, at tho ex- tremity of Lake Erie . Date of Appearance of the Uuease 1832. 8th June E«ORpcd 10th June 16th „ 28th „ 14th July fith „ 1834. 7th July. 9tli „ nth „ 26th „ 30th „ 13th Atig. EndofAug. " Here, with the single exception of Fort George, nt which it appeared a few days later in 1832 than might have been expected from its geographionl posi- tion, this singulor disease may be said to have tra- velled with post-like regularitv. " Along tne banks of the Ottawo, another of the principal channels of emigration into Canada, it pur- sued the same steady course, as well as up the Riche- lieu, and along Lake Champlain through the United States to New York, a route which ia also frequently taken by emigrants on their arrival in Quebec. These circumstances, combined with the fact of several persons having died from the disease on their passage from Ireland, in each of the years when it appeared, led to the belief of its having been im- ported, and subsequently communicated by contagion ; various precautionary measures were in consequence adopted to prevent its propagation, and strict qua- rantine regulations were enforced, both as regarded the troops and inhabitants ; but though in some in- stances these were apparently effectual, in others they proved of little avail, and the contagious nature of the disease was subsequently rendered extremely questionable from the circumstance, that neither the physicians nor those in constant attendance on the sick, exhibited any peculiar liability to it. " Of course it is impossible, in a limited Report of this nature, to enter fully oft all the facts and arguments bearing on the important and much-dis- puted topic of contagion; we can only say that all which has been adduced on either side seems to full far short of absolute proof, and even those who have had the best opportunities of forming accurate opinions, by watching the progress of this disease, are forced tn admit that its origin is still involved it* tin, in jdmiii- 1 there ig the h little he dU- . stage, the (le- r ranks stages, biliiy to jrecisely ^marked forms of ,s having igh their ?ry large a during ire cut off 1 Age and the War ity b» this io of Deaths t each Ak8 f Epidcnu" Cholera. 16-5 23- 36-3 10-6 to have Ua- mystery, or at least, that the contrariety of resiiltK can only be reconciled by supposing that under some cir- cumstances it may be contagious, while in others it may be the reverse. " Prior to its appearance in 1832, the winter had been extremely severe, the spring cold and backward, and the average temperature of summer considerably below its usual standard. Easterly winds had also prevailed continuously for 27 days before the disease broke out| bnt this is by no means uncommon in spring, though in that year they were more frequent tnan usual, as will be seen by the following state- ment: — Years. Days of Kiutcrly Winds in April, Mny, and June. Days of Easterly WindH throughout tliu year. 1832 1833 1834 49 38 3tl 121 111 1^0 " Except m regara to the slight difference in the prevnlence of easterly winds, the season of 1833 was almost exactly the same as that of 1832, and yet there was no cholera ) whereas that of 1834 was the ver)' reverse of either. With the exception of one month the winter was open, the Kpriiig imld, the easterly winds prccedi.ig the breaking out of thti cholera more rare, and the heat of summer greater than for many years previous. " Most accurate and extensive meteorological ob- servations were made daily during the continuance oi the disease, but neither variations of temperature, fluctuations of the barometer, change of wind, nor the prevalence nor absence of moisture, seemed tu affect it in the slightest degree t on this point there was no difference of opinion, whatever may have existed on others connected with its origm and progress." In July, 1849, the malady agaia ap- peared in British North America, and pur- sued nearly the same course it did in 1834. Some further remarks on the influence of climate on age, and the degree of sickness and mortality among the troops serving in British America, will be given when treating of Bermuda, which is included in Bererol of the returns relating to Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. CHAFl'ER 111. POPULATION, COUNTIES, CHIEF TOWNS, LAND CULTIVATED, AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE AND LIVE STOCK OF EACH COUNTY-, GOVERNMENT, LAWS, MILITARY DEFENCE; EDUCATION, THE PRESS, RELIGION, CRIME; FINANCES, REVENUE AND EXPENDI- TURE, TARIFF, COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS, STAPLE PRODUCTS AND MANUFACTURES, MINES, QUARRIES, AND FISHERIES; PRICES OF PROVISIONS, WAGES OF LABOUR, PROPERTY ANNUALLY ' CREATED, MOVABLE AND IMMOV- ABLE WEALTH, COINS AND BANK NOTE CIRCULATION, PROJECTED RAILROAD FROM HALIFAX TO QUEBEC. When first discovered by the Europeans, Nova Scotia, as well as other parts of America, was inhabited by Indians of a reddish-brown colour, with high clicek- bones, large lips and mouths, long black coarse hair, and fine, intelligent, penetrating eyes ; the males being from 5 feet 8 inches to 6 feet in height, with broad shoulders and strong limbs. The two principal tribes, the Mic-macs and Eichibuctoos, dififering in features and in dialect, were equally savage in their mode of life and manners, but to some extent civilized and made nominal Christians, by the early French settlers, who trained the Indians? to assist them in their contests with the English. The wars between the rival nations for the possession of Nova Scotia, the intro- duction of the smaU-pox, and above all, the maddening eficcts of the unlimited use of spirituous liquors, have swept ofi" nearly all the Indians from the face of the country of which they were once masters, and only a few hundreds, principally of the Mic-macs, are still to be found. Indolent in the ex- treme, except when roused by the stimulus of hunger or revenge, the Indian dreams away a monotonous existence — his only wants arc food, raiment, and shelter of the simplest kind; and probably within a few years, the remnant of this species of the human race will have entirely passed away. I have been unable to obtain accurate de- 180 PllOOIlUSS OP EUROPEAN POPULATION IN NOVA SCOTIA. taib of tho fliirly pro^cM of population in thti «'(iloiiy I in 1740, about 140 years after tlut M'ttldinont of ttio colony, the Acadians Rmoiintml to 1H,()00 in number; after the roinovul of thmfl ncoplo from Nova Scotia in 1700, tlio l)riti«h lottlcrs were computed At only n,(M)0, but in 1704 the number of noiilit won itntod at 1:),(); but by the subsequent separation of New Dninswick, Prince Edward's Isle, and Cape Dreton into distinct j^ovemments; the nouulation uf Novn Scotia was of course diminished. In 1H()7 the inhabitants were estimated at 05,000 (exclusive of Cape Breton Island). A censiiN was taken in 1817, another in 1827, and h third in 1837, the result of each being at follows ; — Cuuntlvi tn 181 7. Whiter 7?ree Dlacks. lotal In 1817. Total in 1827. Inorvsis Malei. Femalet. Males. Femalii. in to yrit. noiihi Ilsnt* Annsnolli Kiiiii'ti Olif liiirne Qticfii'ii . ... Liini'iiliurgf . . . . Hvflnfy Cuinburlnnd .... 15,181 3,687 4,861 3,457 6,586 1,421 3,4(35 3,531 1,641 13,020 2,056 4,461 3,276 5,892 1,410 3,052 3,100 1,348 301 82 171 04 232 130 68 240 20 350 60 228 40 236 128 63 214 30 20,851 6,686 0,721 6,845 11,040 3,008 6,428 7,001 3,048 40,628 8,627 14,061 10,208 12,018 4,226 0,406 12,700 6,440 4,040 »,;)0.'l 7'i 127 2,777 6,600 2,»0ft Totnl 42,730 39,423 1,412 1,348 84,013 123,878 21,288 Tlie fore(i«itin is exclusive of king's troops, wlione numbers amounted, in 1817, to 1,302; and nlMO of Capo Breton Isle, which contiiini'd, in 1817, 14,000 inhabitants; and in 1827, 30,000. It will bo observed that the census of 1837 U diflbreutly arranged from that of 1817; the number of males, during thu former period, was 72,971, and of fcnuilcH, 69,577; the annual births, 6,240; tliu deaths, 2,124; and the marriages, 1,073. The aggregate of the census of 1827 shows the number of male and female ser- vants, exclusive of masters, iH follows :— Population of Nova Scotia in 1827. OsunttM «nd Clitnoii bi 1827 Bmo!S^ ~' FimlBMh of Halifax bUtrilit of llnlifox . „ Culohealer „ Piotou . CountlN of^ Annapolis . Alitilburne Uu»»n'ii . Luni>nburft Gumbwknd Mydtwy . Total Population. ■HI S M 3 a , a o g o £ d " S * 5,546 4,898 3,606 6,V04 3,901 4,750 7,152 6,133 1,036 4,531 2,068 6,255 57,986 11 . 6,466 4,614 3,697 6,291 3,602 4,654 6,017 5,885 1,915 4,288 2,415 6,775 56,509 ii !1 1,321 689 315 408 619 637 339 273 261 315 285 431 5,783 -a.g 1,106 345 186 296 415 261 263 288 123 271 148 222 3,913 It 14,439 10,437 7,703 13,940 8,027 10,208 14,061 12,018 4,226 9,400 6,416 12,760 123,848 Birthi. u ofr 384 370 334 601 330 330 436 635 153 331 242 608 4,503 MariluKim 045 Dsatha. hi A20 157 77 116 ao2 116 1(H) 124 77 123 40 80 1,008 Tliefollovi Book" for 1 hu been tal Count Halifax . Colchetter Plctou . . Hanti . . King's ; , Annapolis . Yarmouth . Shelbunia . Queen's Lunenburg Ouyaborough Sydney . . , Cumberland , Cape Breton , Invemeu . . RioiunDnd . . JVbfe.—There ii intil the census In the ecclc! population of s mated for that been a large in census of 183; 1837,populatio Chester, 10,674 and 30,000; G The population in 1 848 at 230, county, 40,000 Colchester, 14,1 and Guysborou ties, 111,260. ton was estimf 18 now probah estimate of thn and Cape Bretc posed will not 1 The populat posed of variou! Irish, Scotch, quitted the Uz the revolution, subjects of the home in Nova they are termed 'n the townsh Madame, and POPULATION OP NOVA SCOTIA JN 1837. 181 Tlie following table, derived from the "Blue Book" for 1847, fpves the latest cenHus that haa been taken in Nova Scotia, and Rhows the number and names of the counties into which it is divided : — /: »*> Abilraet of Ceniut of Nova Seotia in 1837, from " Stu* Book" for 1847, CountiM. Halifax . , Colcheiter Pictou . . , Hanti . . . King's ; . . Annapolis . . Yarmouth . . Shelbuma . . Queen's Lunenburg Ouysborough Digby . . Sydney , . Cumberland Cape Breton . Inverness . RiohmDnd . •:i Cape Breton Isle. neada of Familiw. 4,323 2,090 3,109 1,809 2,092 1.962 1,471 1,069 029 1,929 1,191 1,411 1,669 1,236 2,299 2,190 1,219 Undsr 6 yean. Male. Female. 2,091 1,009 2,418 1,277 1,603 1,328 1,106 720 671 1,409 912 1,0 J6 1,439 894 1,762 1,960 894 2,918 1,241 2,333 1,233 1,439 1,267 1,062 070 624 1,239 842 1,008 1,163 873 1,643 1,601 888 Under 14 yean. Mole. Female. 2,871 1,467 2,299 1,256 1,999 1,249 1,094 768 979 1,498 886 1,063 1,242 063 1,686 1,601 809 Total . .34,891 22,049 22,040 23,004 21,619 36,048 42,438 199,906 2,774 1,310 1,979 1,921 1,473 1,128 972 710 986 1,374 839 026 1,213 792 1,409 1,.397 816 NotHeadinfFamilioi Orir 14 yean. Male. 3,604 2,121 6,030 1,991 2,100 3,462 1,067 1,309 796 1,464 930 1,193 1,291 1,182 3,938 3,378 916 Female. 8,999 1,476 3,361 3,041 3,911 1,993 2,420 009 1,617 3,196 1,847 2,930 1,222 1,642 1,792 1,761 1,671 TdUI. 28,970 10,674 21,fii:> tl,;W9 13,709 11,907 9,192 6,191 6,798 12,095 7,447 9,189 9,139 7,972 VJ,111 14,099 7,203 NoU. — There is an apparent error of 092 in the return for Inverness, which there is no means of correcting intil the census of 1861, In the ecclesiastical returns for 1847, the population of several of the counties is esti- mated for that year; and, if correct, there has been a large increase of inhabitants since the census of 1837: thus Sydney contained, in 1837,population,9,135; m 1847, 17,000; Col- Chester, 10,674 and 14,000; Pictou, 21,165 and 30,000; Ouysborough, 7,447 and 10,000. The population of Nova Scotia was estimated in 1848 at 230,200, viz.. City of Halifax, and county, 40,000; County Cumberland, 10,600 ; Colchester, 14,900; Pictou, 30,300; Sydney and Ouysborough, 23,200; remaining coun- ties , 1 1 1,260. The population of Cape Bre- ton was estimated in 1? l«, at 49,600. It 18 now probably inor. than 50,000. The estimate of the populatioi in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton for th'- year 1850, it is sup- posed will not be far short of 300,000. The population of Nova Scotia is com- posed of various races, viz., French, English, Irish, Scotch, and Anglo-Americans, who qmtted the United States at the period of the revolution, and, desirous of remaining subjects of the British crown, sought a nev? home in Nova Scotia. The French, or as they are termed Acadians, are chiefly located in the township of Clare, Annapolis, Isle Madame, and other parts of Cape Breton. The Acadians, whose history and misfortunes are given in a previous page (163), strongly resemble in appearance, manners, and cus toms, the Habiiana of Eastern Canada. As an illustration of the tenacity with which the Acadians adhere to their ancient cos- tume, and discountenance among themselves the adoption of any other, — Mr. Macgregor mentions that an unlucky youth having put on an English coat, received ever after, the sobriquet of " Joe Peacock." They are an industrious and peaceable race, and have been treated, subsequent to their first expulsion from Nova Scotia, with justice and kind- ness. Many of both sexes are engaged in the Cape Breton fisheries. The Irish are chiefly found in the capita] (Halifax) ; the Scotch, at Pictou and in the eastern districts; the Anglo-Americans, in the west and midland counties. In the county of Lunenburg, there is a race composed of the descendants of a body of German and Swiss protestants who emigrated from Rot- terdam in 1753. A Highland settlement was formed some years ago at Pictou ; and the representatives of the brave men who fought at Cullodcn, still presen'e the habits, and cherish the loyal feelings which distin- guished their ancestors, Wlierever there m l^X •V'\,- ■? iS^i HIGHLAND VILLAGES IN NOVA SCOTIA. 18 a Highland village on tlie midland coast, a piper is to be found who delights the rustic audience with the martial music which has so often cheered the Scotch in their march to battle J or he auimates the festive meetings, where strathspeys and reels are danced with an energy and glee which is not surpassed in the Highlands of Caledonia. The dark-coloured race in Nova Scotia are the descendants of nmaway negroes from the southern part of tie United States ; of the Maroons of Jamaica, who, on their surren- der, after the Maroon war, imder a promise to receive lands in another coHny, were con- veyed to Nova Scotia — than which, a more inappropriate place, as regards either climate or productions, could scarcely have been chosen. In 1800, it was foxmd necessary to remove the greater part of them to Sierra Leone. During the American war, 1812- 13-14, many American slaves were received on board British ships of war, and landed at Nova Scotia. Several of these were removed to Trinidad in 1 821. The survivors and de- scendants of these two immigrations are located chiefly at Prescott and Hammond's Plains, in the vicinity of Halifax, and their numbers are now between 3,000 and 4,000. The Indians still form a distinct class of people ; but there are only a few hundred of ihem left in Nova Scotia. The classification of the inhabitants ac- cording to religion was, according to the census of 1827; churchmen, 28,659 ; Pres- byterians, 37,225; Roman Catholics, 20,401; Methodists, 9,408; Baptists, 19,790; other denominations, 8,365. The census of 1837 docs not distinguish the religious profession of the people. Happily there are no ani- mosities on account of religion or of race. Sir John Harvey, the present respected Lieutenant-governor of the province, in a despatch to Earl Grey of the 18th of October, 1848, says : " Men of different races cherish their national remembrances and attachments with mutual respect for each other's feelings, and their descendants form one race, and are known by but oue name." The Nova Scotians are a loyal, brave, and intelligent people, gifted with high natural endowments, of prepossessing appearance, pleasing manners, and very hos- pitable. The society of the colony is more gay and polished than that usually found in a provincial settlement, and its tone is en- tirely British. tiaHfaa!,i\\c capital of Nova Scotia, and the third city in British America, ia situated in the county of the same name, on the Hne harbour before described, in 44° 40' N, lat. 63° 40' W. long. The harbour is formed bv a bay about 16 miies deep, narrowed in tbe middle by an island, above which it again expands into what is termed the Bedford Basin, which covera an extent of 12 square miles. The channels E. and W. of M'Nab's Island are protected by York Redoubt, Sher- brooke Tower, East Battery, and sevei'al others. The city of Halifax is built on the E. side of a small peninsula on the declivity of a hill, which rises gradually from the water's edge ; its length being about two miles, and its breadth about half a mile, with wide streets, eight of which extend through the city, and are crossed by fifteen smaher ones. Along the water's edge are numerous commodious wharfs, close to which ships can lie for the discharge of their cargoes ; above the wharfs are the warehouses, and as the ac- clivity is ascended are to be seen the houses of the citizens, public buildings, &c. Many of the private residences are handsomely built of stone, and the houses, of wood plastered or stuccoed, have in several in- stances an imposing appearance. The pub- lic edifices are substantial structures; the Government-house at the S. end of the capital is an antique baronial looking struc- ture, and. the Admu'al's house, a piain stone building, at the N. end commands a view of the harbour, telegraphs, shipping, &c. The " Province Building," erected for the accom- modation of the government ofiices, is one of the finest edifices in our American colo- nies ; it stands nearly in the centre of Hali- fax, is 140 feet long, 70 broad, and 45 feet high ; the Ionic columns are of finely polished freestone, and the whole structure combines elegance with strength and utility. It contains chambers for the Council and Legislative Assembly, the Supreme Court, and all the provincial offices. The Military Hospital and other structures at Halifax do honour to the taste and judgment of the late Duke of Kent, who, when Commander- in-Chief in Nova Scotia was universally beloved. The dock-yard, one of the largest and best stored in the British Colonies, covers an area of 14 acres. Halifax has, of late years, rapidly ad- vanced in prosperity ; in 1790 it contained only 700 houses and 4,000 inhabitant.. During the late war, as a military naval station, and the rendezvous for prize ships, the city acquired much wealth. In 1817 it Jidly ad- ontaincd | labitantt.. naval I 1817 it I HALIFAX CITY— THE CAPITAL OF MOVA SCOTIA. 183 was declared a free port, and had then 1,200 houses. In 1827 the houses were in num- ber 1,580, and the population 14,439. The population is now nearly 25,000. Many of the houses are still built of wood, but the number of stone and brick buildings is yearly increasing. The trade of the port is brisk, but conducted with such prudent probity that in eight years there was but one bankruptcy among the mercantile com- munity. There are several soap, candle, leather, snuff, and other manufactories, and distilleries and breweries. The markets are well constructed, and suTtpliedwith aoundancc of excellent meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, and fruits, at reasonable prices. The wharfs are large and commodious; the facilities for embarking and disembarking goods perfect, and fresh water is good and plentiful. The port is, therefore, a favourite resort for all persons engaged in maritime pursuits, and an agreeable station for naval and military oflScers. The following are the distances from Halifax to some of the principal adjacent po- sitions — Cape Breton, 130 miles; Prince Edward's Island, 160; Fort Cumberland, 145; St. Andrew's, 263; Fredericton, 276; St. John's, New Brunswick, 196; and Annapolis, 130; Liverpool, England, about 2,700; Boston, United States, 280 miles. Counties. — According to the latest gov- ernment returns. Nova Scotia is divided into 14 counties, five of which occupy the cen- tral portion, two the eastern, and seven the western. This appears to be the existing territorial arrangement, which is scarcely woi"th fuller investigation, since from the recent despatches of the Lieutenant-governor it appears probable that a more equable distribution will speedily be organized, by which the elective franchise and the advan- tages of municipal incorporation may be made more extensively available. The five central counties are Halifax, Colchester, Cumberland, Pictou, and Hants, of which Halifax, from contivining the metropolis, from position and population, is the most important. It comprises four townships, viz., Halifax, Dartmouth, Preston, luid Law- rence Town. The land included in the first is said to be the worst in the province ; but the coast is almost one uninterrupted suc- cession of harbours, upon each of which a few fishermen have established themselves. Upon that called Sambro, which is safe and of easy access, a settlement was foimded in 1780; it liow contains a small population, almost wholly employed in fishing. The soil about St. Margaret's Bay is fertile and well cultivated. The township of Dartmouth lies on the eastern side of Halifax harbour, and contains land, much of which is ren- dered very productive by the skill and in- dustry of the descendants of the original German settlers. A chain of small lakes intersects the province, which being con- nected with the source of the Shubenacadie River, greatly facilitated the formation of the fine canal which now completes the water communication between Halifax har- bour and the Bay of Mines. The town of Dartnouth was founded in 1750, almost totally destroyed by the Indians in 1756, in part restored by the establishment of a whale fishery in 1784, again impoverished by the emigration of a large portion of the recent settlers in 1792. During the war it greatly increased in size, population, and wealth, and even since the peace it has improved rather than declined, though it cannot in any degree compare with its powerful neighbour Halifax. The township of Lawrence Toivn lies E. of Dartmouth, and continues about 12 miles along the coast. The soil is rocky and barren, with here and there spots of " intervale" or marshy land. The country behind forms the town- ship of Preston, which was granted in 1784 to 388 proprietors — loyalists, disbanded soldiers, and free negroes. The negroes showed unusual energy, but were removed to Sierra Leone, where a large number of them speedily perished. The remainder of Halifax County not included in the town- ship is generally of inferior and stony soil, yet it contains some thriving settlements, especially on the banks of the Musquedoboit River, and is adorned by several kinds of fine timber. Colchester (formerly a part of the county of Halifax), is situated E. of the river Shu- benacadie, and contains three townships, Truro, Onslow, and Londonderry, besides the settlements of Economy, Stewiack, Ta- tamagouche, Salmon River, Shubenacadie, Brookfield, &c. The township of Truro, which comprises 30,000 acres, has a highly pleasing aspect when viewed from the high land on the north- east. The whole sweep of the Basin of Mines, as far as Cape Blomcdon, embracing a space of more than 60 miles, is distinctly visible, while the two villages, into which the township is mainly divided, with their level marshes relieved by finely swelling uplands, and sheltered by wooded and undulating hilK 184 COUNTIES OF COLCHESTER, PICTOU, AND CUMBERLAND. compose the foreground of this beautiful landscape. The indenture made by the Shubenacadie on its western boimdary, is a striking feature in this scene, and when viewed with a previous knowledge of the sin- gular character of the river, it invests it with a peculiar interest. The Shubenacadie, at the ferry, where it is a mile in width, rises 50 feet at flood tide, and at the distance of 12 miles, 25 or 30 feet. At times the stream nms at the rate of seven and eight miles an hour, but notwithstanding the rapidity of the current, the river is securely navigable to the ^stance of 30 nules, by those acquainted with its eddies. Its banks are precipitous, but in general of that formation which admits of the most fantastic appearances, being shaped by the waters, and in many places fringed and over- hung by trees of great beauty. But these banks, so romantic and inviting to the lovers of natural scenery, are also enriched with inexhaustible treasures of gypsum and lime. Quarries of excellent freestone are equally accessible. The line of the bay, being almost everywhere level, presents, with the exception of Savage's Island and the site of the Presbyterian Meeting-house, only those views which the industry of man has created. The houses are well built, and the town- ship has handsome churches, a court-house, custom-house, and other public buildings, with good roads to Halifax, Pictou, &c. The adjoining township of Onslow contains land of excellent quality and valuable coal-mines. The same remark applies to Londonderry, and indeed to the several settlements before- mentioned, which together form a tract of country remarkable both for beauty of sce- nery, for vegetable and mineral wedth. Pictou contains three townships, viz., Pic- tou, Egerton, and Maxwelton. The general appearance of this district resembles that of most parts of the province, its surface being everywhere diversified by hill and dale, sel- dom approaching to the altitude of moun- tains, and nowhere presenting any very extended plains. In consequence of this inequality in its formation, it is well irrigated by streams and brooks, which, by their union, form several rivers. Of these, the East and French Rivers fall into Merrigomish, the East, Middle, and West Rivers, flow into the Larboui- of Pictou, and Big and Little Rivers discharge themselves into Carriboo, between which and the boundary of the district of Colchester, ace the rivers Toney and John. The north coast, though last settled, is evidently a most important part of Nova Scotia. The fertility ^ f the land, its prox- imity to the fisheries, i^s coal and other mineral productions, naturally lead to the conclusion that it will, at no distant period, be the seat of enterprise and wealth. The harbour of Pictou is admirably situated for becoming the emporium of the trade of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is already the centre of enterprise in that part of the pro- vince. Between Baie Verte and the Gut of Canso, it occupies a nearly central posi- tion ; and from the latter place to Quebec, although there are several harbours, both sheltered and commodious, it is not surpassed by any, either in facihty of entrance, good anchorage, or general safety. It has a bar on its mouth, on which is 22 feet at low water; inside the bar, it becomes a capacious and beautifid basin, with five, six, and nine fathom anchorage on a muddy bottom. The chief town, also named Pictou, situated about three mi'.es the en- trance of the harbour, is r, . •. irehous- ing port, and has a larg :;; ::creasing trade in timber, coal, and iiah. llie first house was built in 1790; in 1827, it con- tained a population amounting to 1,439 souls, with annual exports to the value of £100,000. The houses are good, many c' hem being built of stone, and there is i excellent academy, library, and grammar school, be- sides the more ordinary pubUc buildings. The people are chiefly of Scottish descent, and remarkable for their unwavering attach- ment to the language, music, and costume of the land of their forefathers. The soil of this county is in general very favourable to agriculture, and susceptible of a high state of cultivation : and the last census oi produce (that of 1827) shews a great quan- tity of wheat raised viithin the county. Cumberland county is bounded on the N.W. by Chignecto Channel, the Ivlissi- guash River, and part of New Brunswick ; on the E. by the Straits of Northum- berland; ou the S.E. by the district of Colchester ; and on the S. by part of the Bay of Fundy. Previous to the year 1784 (when New Brunswick was created a sepa- rate government), the township of Sackville was contained within the limits of this county, but it is now a part of New Bruns- wick, and is called Westmoreland. Cumber- land county contains two townships, Am- I hcrst and Wallace, and a considerable nuin sd, is Nova prox- other 1 o the eriod, The ed for of the ly the le pro- le Gut il posi- luebec, }, both :e, good haa a feet at «me8 8 five, six, muddy Pictou, the en- orehous- :creasing The first ', it con- 439 souls, £100,000. em being excellent chool, be- buildings. b descent, ngattach- ;o8tume of he soil of favovirable ,f a high census oi reat quan- unty. d on the the Iviisui- Jrunswick ; . Northum- district of part of the I year 1784 [ted a sepa- ^f Sackville [its of this [ew Bruns- .. Cumber- 1 iiships, Am- leiable nmn COUNTIES OF CUMBERLAND AND HANTS. 185 oer of settlements not comprised within either ; viz., Fort Lawrence, Maccan, Nap- pan, Minudie, West Chester, Pugwash, Fox Harbour, River Philip, Goose River, &c. Adjoining the boundary line, is Fort Law- rence settlement, lying between the Missi- guash and the La Flanche. On the former river, which is navigable about two miles, there are 2,000 acres of dyke land, one half of which is in New Brunswick ; and on the latter river 4,000 acres, one half being in New Brunswick, and the other in Nova Scotia. The fertility of this county is unquestionable, and not inferior to any other portion of Ame- rica of the same extent. Here stood the rival forts of Lawrence and Beau Sejour (now Cumberland), separated from each other by the little stream of Missiguash. From the bas- tion of Beau Sejour fort there is a splendid view, embracing the great Tanteimarr and Missiguash meadows, Baronsfields, West- moreland, and the country at the foot of the Shepody mountains ; vast stacks of hay cover these alluvial lands, as far as the eye can reach, and the substantial farm-houses, and numerous herds, bespeak a wealthy and independent veomaniy. The township of Wallace contains several flourishing settlements. Wallace Town is situate at the mouth of the noble bay of that name, which is navigable for the largest ships above six mUes, and for smaller ones above 12. The river Remsheg, after a course of 25 miles, discharges itself into the bay. Pugwash Bay is one of the finest harbours in the county ; and the shore is so bold that vessels of 500 tons burthen may lie at all times in safety within 20 yards of it; above the channel, which is not more than a quarter of a mile wide, it becomes a beautiful basin, into which the Pugwash River dis- charges itself. The river Philip, which unites with several others, also discharges itself into the sea, near Pugwash Harbour. Fox Har- bour, on Pugwash Bay, was settled 30 years ago by Scotch Highlanders. Besides coal, freestone, and grindstone, gypsum abounds at the head of Chignecto Bay, and occasionally on the Maccan. Lime is also found in the vicinity of Amherst, at the river Philip, and at Maccan and Nappau. Although its value in agriculture is not unknown to the inhabitants, it has not been often applied, nor is it probable that it ever will be : the numerous bays, rivers, creeks, and coves by which Cumberland is inter- jected, presenting in the alluvial deposit a more simple and not less valuable manure. VOT I. The dyked land in this county, exclusive of salt marshes and intervale, exceeds 17,250 acres. West Chester is situated in the centre of the county, on the Cobequid high- lands. It was settled by loyalists from New York; but, although the soil is good, the position appears to have been ill chosen, and the settlement has not prospered. The inhabitants of this county are chiefly emi- grants (or their descendants) from New York, from the North of Ireland, and from the county of York in England. 7%e county of Hants is bounded on the W. by Horton, on the N. by the Basin ol Mines, on the E. by the Shubenacadie River, and on the S. by parts of the counties of Halifax and Lunenburg. It contains six townships, viz., Windsor, Falmouth, New- port, Rawdon, Kempt, and Douglas. Windsor, the shire-town of Hants County, is delightfully situated on the Avon River, and contains many respectable private resi- dences and good public buildings; it is distimt from Halifax 45 miles, the road to whirli has been rendered level, and is kept in an excellent state of repair. After passing the boundary of Halifax County, the appearance; of the land indicates a decided change in its quality. The sombre spruce and fir, and the dwarf birch, that clotlie the country for 20 miles from the capital, arc succeeded l)y a growth of bcecli mingled with hemlock, elm, and maple; and the surface of the ground is no longer encumbered with heavy masses of stone. From the Ardoise hills the whole of this township is displayed to view, and on a nearer approach it loses nothing of the prestiye imparted to it by the distant prospect. It was held in great estimation by the French, on account of its extensive and fertile meadows, whieli they inclosed with dykes, and l)rought into a high state of cultivation. Tlie crops of wheat raised here were so exceedingly abun- dant, that for many years previous to the war of 1756, a great quantity was annually exported to Boston. Newport Township lies on the eastern side of the St. Croix. The upland is good, especially on the banks of that river and the Kennetcook; it is well cultivated and thickly settled. Douglas Township is one of the best in the province, from the large proportion of intervale, marsh, and upland which it contains, and its great mineral resources. The lands on the Shubenacadie are of unsurpassed fertility. Falmouth and Rnwdon have fertile uplands. Kempt, which 2 u 186 SYDNEY, 6UYSB0R0UGH, AND KINO'S COUNTIES. is situated on the borders of Mines Basin, has good cod and herring fisheries. The eastern portion of Nova Scotia now contains two counties, viz., Sydney and Guys- borough ; but the latter has, till very lately, ranked only as a township, and as such wUl be mentioned here. Sydney is divided in two districts. Upper and Lower; the Upper forms a triangle, the S. side of which mea- sures 36 miles, the W. 25^ and the sea- coast, including the circuit of St. George's Bay, about 50 miles. In an agricultural point of view it is far superior to the Lower District, and notwithstanding the numerous harbours and valuable fisheries possessed by the latter, it is much more densely popu- la .'d. A large portion of its inhabitants are Scotch; an extensive tract on the N. coast has received the name of Arisaig, and includes settlements called Knoydart, Moy- dart, &c. The township of Dorchester, or Antig6"- nish, situate on or about the bay of that name, contains the shire-town of the dis- trict, also called Dorchester. It is an orderly and pretty place, with a court-house, a handsome Roman Catholic chapeL a pres- bytefian and Baptist church, and good private houses. The harbour is six miles in length, but the entrance is narrow and diliicult. The land round St. George's is formed into the settlements of Pomquet, Tracadie, and Aubushee, the inhabitants being chieily Acadians, who pursue the " quiet tenor ot their way," here, much in the same manner as elsewhere, but that I they employ themselves more in the fishing and coasting trr-de. The Lower district extends, on its interior or northern boun- dary, firom Cape Porcupine, at the N. end of the Gut of Canso, to the eastern boun- dary of the district of Halifax, 40 miles ; on its western side, from the southern boun- dary of Pictou to the mouth of Ekemseegam Harbour, 30 miles; and on the sea-coast, including the shore of Chedabucto Bay, 120 miles. According to Bouchette, the town- ship of Guysborough reaches from Crow Harbour to the northern bounds of the lower districts. The original grant was 100,000 acres, made to some American loy- alits in 1784. The land of this district is extremely good, but the fisheries afford such lucrative employment, that it is cultivated little more than sufficiently for the internal supply. The Bay of Chedabucto is the best fishing- ground in Nova Scotia, and can scarcely be surpassed in productiveness by any other in the yorld. Great quantities of cod appear early in the season, and, in the summer, her- rings of good quality abound. The shoals of mackerel in spring and autumn are of almost incredible extent. Mr. Murray state <, that in Guysborough Harbour, 2,000 or 3,000 barrels have been caught in one day, and a seine has sometimes been known to enclose from 800 to 1,000 barrels at a single draught. Crow Harbour and Fox island are the chief seats of the fishery. The township of Man- chester lies between Milford Haven and the Gut of Canso. The soil is very good. The land o;i the coast of the Atlantic is of the usual description : remarkable for the excel- lence of its harbours. Cotmtry Harbour is a noble port, navigable for the largest ships 4en miles above its entrance. On the eastern side, a small town, called Stormont, was built by American refugees, in 1784, but it does not appear to have prospered. Sher- brooke, situated at the head of the navigation uf the fina stream St. Mary, is accessible to vessels of 50 to 100 tons, and has a consid- erable lumber trade. We now turn to the counties which ocnapy the western portion of Nova Scotia, beginning with King's County, w&ich is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Fundy, on the S. by Lunenburg and Hants, on the E. by Mines Basin, and on the W. by Annapolis. It con* tains four townships, viz. : Horton, Comwallis, Aylesford, and Parrsborough. Horton was originally settled by the French, and in it was situated the French village of Minas, of which few traces now remain, excepting the scattered groups of willows, the invariable appendage of an Acadian settlement. The "Grande Prairie" comprised upwards of 2,000 acres of land, dyked pnd inclosed by the Acadians; and besides this, there were about 5,000 acres also inclosed by their dili- gent labovu*. Some years after their expul- sion, the emigrants from New England, in 1760, found the dykes in a state of great dilapidation, and the meadows under water; but, with much difiicidty and considerable expense, the embankments were restored, and the land has become surprisingly productive. Kentville is the chief place in the town- ship : it stands on the borders of CornwaUis; the river Gaspereaux, which flows through it, abounds with excellent fish, and is famous for a species called "gaspereaux." Comwallis To^vnship has an excellent soil, and, from its beauty, has been styled " the garden of the province;" but the adjoining township of tlicr in appeu BT, her- ! shoals are of f state'), jr 3,000 J, and a ) enclose iraught. the chief of Man- and the 3d. The is of the he excel- •hour is a jest ships le eastern lont, was 84, hut it id. Sher- navigation icessible to s a consid- ich ocoupy ,, beginning )Ounded on a the S. by 1. hy Mines is. It con- Comwallis, Horton -was , and in it )f Minas, of Lcepting the 3 invariable jment. The ipwards of inclosed by there were )y their dili- I their expul- England, in late of great [inder water; considerable restored, and f productive. |in the town- [f Comwallis; ra through it, id is famous " Comwallis and, from its ;arden of the ' township of • BEAUTIFUL SCENERY OF NOVA SCOTIA. 187 Aylesford is little inferior to it ia either respect. Parrsborough is broken and hilly, but not unproductive. The village of that name stands on the neck of land between the bay and Mines Basin, and from thence packets saU frequently to and from Windsor and Horton. In this district there is a view of singular and remarkable beauty, which opens unex- pectedly on the traveUer who descends the Horton mountains. A sudden turn of the road displays at once the township \s of Horton and Comwallis, and the rivers tl at meander through them. Beyond is a lofty and ex- tended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, apparently burst out by the waters of 19 rivers, that empty themselves into the Mines Basin, and thence escape into the Bay of Fimdy. The variety and extent of this pros- pect, the beautiful verdant vale of the Gas- pereaux, the extended township of Horton, interspersed with groves of wood and culti- vated fields, and the cloud-capt summit of the lofty cape, that terminates the chain of the north mountains, form an assemblage of objects rarely united with more striking effect. Dr. Gesner says, " the scenery in the set- clement of New Canaan is extensive and pleasing. Besides a view of the great valley seen from Beech Hill, we have here to the S. W. deep ravines, with steep banks, beneath wnieh winding channels are formed, giving passage to torrents of rain, after they have descended and washed the oval summits of the hills. It is true there are no elevations of great height in this neighbourhood, but the earth ia deeply furrowed by the uptiuned ridges of slate, and offers a landscape singu- larly diversified, when contrasted with the level appearance of the sandstone district, over which the lofty peak of the frowning Blomidon may be seen, ready to fall into the beautiful basin curUng at its base. By turning the eye southward, a long low depression will be perceived. Here the Gaspereaux River, having taken its rise from a large lake, rolls on from cataract to cataract, or murmurs among the strata of slate, wbere it is com- pelled to pass." The county of Imncnlmrg extends about 40 miles S. W. from that of Halifax, its extreme width being 35 miles, exclusive of the apace occupied by nearly 300 small islands, about 200 of which are contained in Mahone Bay, and contrib>ite to the safe anchorage for vessels of the largest magnitude which this spacious harbour affords. T is county con- tains three townships, Chester, Lunenburg, and Dublin, the second of which is next to Halifax; the oldest formed by the English in the province. 400 families of Dutch and Germans were brought out in 1753, at the expense of the British government, which afterwards continued to contribute largely to their support. The settlement has passed through many vicissitudes. Since the war it has greatly increased both in population and wealth. Its annual exports of fish are very large. The people are honest and industrious ; they continue to live in the old German^tyle, stud to speak the German lan- guage. Their houses, furniture, pictures,. &c. (for they have all these), are of the same heavy and old-fashioned, but solid and com- fortable description. The townships of Ches- ter, Mahone Bay, was settled in 1760. Chester Town is situated on Mahone Bay, libout nine miles from its mouth, was settled in 1760, and has a small but good harbour. It is in a thriving state. The inhabitants carry on a considerable lumber trade and fishery, and possess a number of small vessels and several saw-mills. Dr. Gesner speaks in enthusiastic terms of the beauty of Mahone Bay, declaring it to present "one of the most delightful prospects in Nova Scotia. A deep navigable basin, in which numerous islands exhibit their evergreen summits, almost surrounded by a closely populated and neatly cultivated country, are not often seen in that natural and delightful order which is here exhibited." Dublin Township is situate on the river and harbour of La Have, thfl lands bordering on which are stony aiid mountainous, but abound with fine vimber. On the river there are upwards of 30 saw-mills. In the outer har- bour of La Have, are many beautiful islands, affording shelter for vessels, and convenient places for drying and cuinng fish, of which considerable quantities are taken here. The inner harbour, formed by the river, is capa- cious, and navigable for 15 miles. The bar at the entrance has 12 feet at low water ; inside there are soundings from eight fathoms gradually to three. Queen's County extends about 30 miles along the coast, and contains two town- ships, Liverpool and Guysborough. Liver- pool is the shire-town of the county, and, was made a warehousing port in 1834. It, is well, and even regularly built, and- ha3- an unusual number of public buildings:. A. handsome drawbridge, 1,100 feet long* has been erected by the inhabitaatf* ^cruss thft^ 188 ANNAPOLIS, QUEEN'S AND CLARE COUNTIES. Iiarbour, at a cost of £4,000. The harbour never freezes over, and is valuable as a fishing station ; but its usefulness id much impeded by a bar at the entrance, only nine feet deep at low wtiter. On Coffin's Island, lit its mouth, is a beacon 70 feet high, with revolving lights. Port Mcdway, the entrance to which is marked by a high hill on the western, and by low, ragged islands on the southern side, is another capacious harbour, aak and navigable ; on it is situated a ham- let, bearing its name, and another called Mill Village, said to have the best land in the county. This, however, is not very high commendation ; yet, Sir John Harvey speak- ing of this coast says : " except along some of the headlands, from the bald rocks of which the ceaseless surge of the Atlantic has swept every trace of soil or vegetation, there is a covering of earth, generally a stiff clay, often, as on the front lands of Lunenburg, Halifax, and Yarmouth, anil on the 'hard- wood hills,' everywhere scattered through the barrens, of great depth and proved fer- tility. The labour of clearing lands on this side of the province is very severe, from the prevalence of the surface-stone ; but, when cleared, it is valuable, frnm its proximity to the open harbours, the fisheries, and the growing commercial towns." In 1 783 Guys- liorough Township, on Port Mouton, was settled by the disbanded soldiers of a corps named the British Legion, who had served, with distinction, under General Tarleton; but a dreadful fire, which consumed nearly everything they possessed, reduced them to want. The settlement has never since pros- pered, and is now the abode only of a few fishermen and lumberers. The adjoining ones of Ports Jolie and Hebert, arc also notliing more, although both are shoal harbours. Annapolis County is bounded on the N. and W. by the Bay of Pundy. At tlie I)()ttom is the deep bay of St Mary, formed by ]jong Island, and the narrow peninsula of Digby Neck. Annapolis contains large ranges, both of dyked land and productive, though somewhat stony, upland. It contains five townships, viz., Annapolis, Granville, Wilmot, Clements, and Clare. Annapolis was the capital of the province %vhile in the possession of the French, and continued to be so under British rule, until 1750, when it was superseded as such by Halifax. The town is built on a peninsula, which projecting into the river, forms two beautiful basins, one above and below the town. The fortifica- tions, and even many of the public buildings of this once famous place are falling into decay from disuse ; and the rise of Digby and other places in its vicinity, have greatly injured its trade, while the land immedi;itely surrounding it, being the property of govern- ment, forms another barrier to its extension. Granville and Wilmot Townships compre- hend, for 46 miles, the peninsula formed by the river Annapolis, running parallel io the Bay of Fnndy; both are well cultivated, thickly settled, and contain a large pro- portion of excellent land, consisting of dyke, salt marie, intervale, and upland. Bridge- town (so called from a bridge that here crosses the Anna})olis) is situated at the head of the navigation of that river, and is a very thriving village. Clement's Township possessess a rare combination of advantages in good land, valuable fisheries, fine timber, and great mineral wealth. At Moose River the An- napolis Iron Mining Company have erected a fouudry, and metal of a very superior quality has been produced. Clare Township is almost exclusively occu- pied by the Acadians, who here preserve their peculiar habits and customs, even more exclusively than in any other portion of Nova Scotia. It possesses a peculiar inter- est from having been allotted to the Acadians by Lieutenant-governor Francklin, when suffered to return from their sad exile. This district was tlicn little better than a wilder- ness, but the soil was cultivable; the sea- weed on the shore afforded them abundance of excellent manure ; and, stimulated by the desire of creating for themselves again a position in their native land, they laboured with persevering energy until they had raised Clare into a prosperous settlement. The whole township forms but one parish ; there are two handsome Roman Catholic chapels, and the people livo a pious and contented life. In 1820 a dreadful confla- gration destroyed nearly all their property ; but the liberal contributions of tlie inhabi- tants of Nova Scotia and New Bmnswick aided them in completely retrieving their loss. The county (until recently a township of Annapolis County) of Digby occupies the strangely-formed peninsula in the Bay of Fundy which bears itii name; it includes within its limits Long and Brian Island, and some good tracts of marsh and intervale land. Of its exact limits there are no data the Colonial Office. The principal m sources of its increased uad increasing pros- 1 BIGBY, YARMOUTH, AND SHELBURNE COUNTIES. 181) hito 3igby reatly ii|itely I 3Tem- insion. 1 »mprc- led by to the I Wated, ;e pto- if dyke, ' Bridgc- at here at the , and ia a rare )d land, id great the An- i erected superior irelyoccu- preserve jvenmore lortion of Jiar inter- Acadians lin, when xile. This a wilder- , the sea- abundance Lted bjr the ts again a [y laboured they bad settlement, [ne parish; ^n Catholic pious and iful confla- ,• property; [the inhabi- Bmnswick vying their pcrity arc its cscelleut cod and mackerel fisheries, and the shelter which it affords to vessels — the coast in its more immediate vicinity being almost devoid of harbours. The town of Digby is delightfully situate on the basin of Annapolis, contains several good public buildings, and about 200 houses, and A-om its salubrious air, is much fre- quented as a watering-place. It had a wide celebrity for its cured herrings, known over all America under the name of Digby chic- kens, but of late years they have not been so numerous. The county of Yarmouth (until recently a township of Shelbume county) forms the central portion of the W. coast of Nova Scotia, opposite the United States. The face of the county is very agreeably diver- sified, and in point of scenery it is one of the most beautiful portions of Nova Scotia. The climate is more temperate than that of less insulated parts of the province, the mercury very rarely falling as low as zco, nor rising higher than 80°: the mean tem- perature is about 48°. At a short distance from the salt water, apples, plums, and cherries, succeed well ; and on the banks of the Tusket, pears, peaches, and melons ripen. The sea-breeze and the fogs, which occasionally occur in summer, render Yar- mouth more suitable for the production of potatoes and grass, the manufacture of but- ter and cheese, and the rearing of cattle, than for the culture of grain. The soil of the upland is in general strong and pro- ductive, but requires much labour in the first instance, before it can be brought into a state of culture. The marshes, though extensive, are very inferior to those at the head of the Bay of Fundy. They yield, when dyked, good grass, but are too spongy to admit of the use of the plough, partaking more of the quality of peat, than of alluvial deposit. The principal harbour is Cape Fourehu, or Foiu-ch^, which is large and well sheltered. It is surrounded by mud flats, that are bare at low tides, but the channel is navigable for large ships, as far as the upper part of Yarmouth village, and for small craft as far as the foot of the rock at Milton, while the Sound aftbrds good an- chorage for vessels of any size. The land is well irrigated by the lakes and rivers which intersect it. The Tusket is n tvi- gable for boats 33 miles from the sea, and for ships eight miles. Chcbogue River is navi- gable for seven miles froni tl»e sea, and, at its mouth, expands into a good harbour. The growing importance of Yarmouth is re- markable; its rapidly-increasing imports and exports, and the high state of cultivation of the greater part of the district, speak volumes for the skill and energy of its inhabitants, whose enterprising character is evidenced by the sad fact, that from the formation of the settlemeni in 1760, to 1837, the number of vessels lost jelonging to Yarmouth was 167; and of these, 34 were never heard of. Shelbume county is bounded on the S. and W. by the Atlantic. It is, on the whole, a stony and intractable country, traversed in the interior by ranges of the Blue Moun- tains ; but it contains several good rivers; — thcTusketRiver,beforementioned; the Sable, which has a course of 20 miles ; the Jordan forms the fine harbour of Shelbume, consid- ered one of the best in America; and the Clyde, (so called from its resemblance to the beautiful Scotch river of that name) rises 40 miles in the interior^ in an extensive chain of lakes, and at its junction with the sea forms the two harbours called Cape Negro. Shelbume County comprises three town- ships — Shelbume, Barrington, and Argyle. Shclburne Township was founded by Ame- rican loyalists, 500 families of whom arrived in the spring of 1783. They laid the plaii of a spacious and handsome town, which they expected would rival Halifax; and in the autumn of the same year, their numbers were increased, by an accession of settlers, to upwards of 12,000. The town arose with astonishing rapidity. Money, to the extent of half a million, is supposed to have been lavished upon it. But one important point had been unhappily overlooked; they had forgotten, or miscalculated the long period that must necessarily elapse before the sterile soil could yield them even a precarious sub- sistence, in return for skilfiil and unwearied labour. The place was soon comparatively deserted, and is now in a very dilapidated state, notwithstanding the excellence of its harbour. On M'Nutt's Island, at the en- trance of the haven, in lat. 43° 40' N., long. 65° 8' W., is a light-house, with two fixed lights, one above the other; the highest 125 feet above the sea. Bamngton Township has a stubborn soil, but much of it is covered with a black chocolate-coloured turf, which, when carefully cultivated, produces abundant crops. The climate is much milder than in the eastern portion of the province: the in- habitants subsist almost entirely by fishing Cape Sable Island (not that ou which the first disastrous settlement was made by the r. 190 AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE AND LIVE STOCK OP EACH COUNTY. French) is an adjoining blet belonging to this to'.mship, and the roost soutliem point of Nova Scotia. Barrington harbour ia useful onlv for small vessels. At the head of it is the village of that name. Argyle Town- ship adjoins Yarmouth, which it resembles in many respects; but it does not equal it in feiiility. The large expanse called Argyle Bay forms the estuary of the river Tusket, and contains about 300 islands, called the Tuskets, many of which are welt cultivated, and afford shelter and anchorage for small vessels. Argyle Town was settled by loy- alists and disbanded soldiers. It is not, at present, a place of much importance. About 13 miles from the shore lies Seal Island, which is resorted to by the fishermen for wood and water, and has been termed " the elbow of the Bay of Fundy." The principal harbour in the township is Pubnico, on which there is an Acadian settlement. There is another at Eclbrooke. For the leading features in the different coonties described in this chapter, I am indebted to Messrs. Haliburton, M'Gregor, Bouchette, Murray, Gesner, and others. Production and Live Stock of each County in Neva Scotia, according to the last Centtit in 1827. i Produce, Stock, Countiei in l.'^'i/. H Wheat. Other Grain. Potatoes. Hay, Horses. H2.'? 6,786,620 36,634 268 iibout 50,000 acres have been granted foi the support of religion and schools. Then have been Bct apart for ilie remnant of the Indians in Nova Scotia, 12,050 acres of land, and in Cape Breton, 12,000 acres. Sir John Harvey states that the land under ofCr [ priuc and I not grant to 0C( the make I non ■ 1 4thly. I of sue By j then ! wheth The t, ati bout I Land, I a for] " the ' icipal I which ' ere i» 1 lerent | I am Iregor, •8. 7. Swins. 4,160 6,912 12,945 6,633 7,705 6,927 18,514 6,331 1,941 6,804 H 75,772 thetown- Une, for I annually le United I ind sheep Fine Horn* te United! for 1847, 1 and sold ton, is asl Total. 1365 380/)23 1109 6,786,620 1118 36,051 60 26b I granted foi lols. Then jiant of the Ires of land, | .landunden GOVERNMENT AND MILITARY DEFENCES OP NOVA SCOTU. 191 tiUsge in 1848, comprised 400,000 acres, I and adds, that there is, perhaps, an equal amount chopped, used as pasturage, or yield- ing from the virgin soil, by the rude process common to new countries, a valuable portion of subsistence to recent settlers. A very large part of the whole, perhaps 9,000,000 acres, is still covered with prime\ al forest, or has only changed its aspect for the worse from the action of fires, which, in the heat of summer, often run over uncultivated por- tions of the country, deforming its surface and injuring its fertility. The grants and sales of land in Nova Scotia, from 1831 to 1840, were :— Oranto, Sales. Tean. AOTM. Year.. Acreg. Yean. Acres. 1831 26,328 1836 6,474 1841 6.061 1832 6,254 1837 3,500 1842 1,924 1833 2,229 1838 1,679 1843 4,235 1834 6,327 1839 1,450 1844 8,987 1835 7,660 1840 6,223 1845 21,021 — — — — 1840 36,784 During the same period, there were three grants to military offices, amounting to 2,400 acres. Abstract of the Sales of Crown Land, ^-c, from the 31«< December, 1838, to the end of 1846. Yean. Number of Amount of Instalments of Acres. Sales paid in. prcccdinfj years. 1839 10,612 £1,122 £580 1840 6,933 836 699 1841 6,061 722 278 1842 1,924 328 236 1843 4,236 5S3 73 1844 8,987 1,087 35 1845 21,921 2,536 42 1846 36,784 3,974 161 06,459 11,188 2,096 The legislature of Nova Scotia has con- tinued for three years an "Act on the Disposal of Crown Lands," which expired in 1846. The principal provisions are : — 1st. The Governor and Council to name any fixed price on lands, not less than la. 9rf. per acre. 2ndly. To grant lands, at such price as they think fit, to occupants who have held and improved the same, without authority. 3rdly. To make free grants to retired officers, and to non-commissioned officers and privates. 4thly. To make reserves, and free grants of such reserves, for the use of the Indians. By a recent colonial act, the price is fur- ther reduced to \s. per acre; but it is doubtful whether the measure will be confirmed. The number of immigrants in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton was, in 1845, 615; in 1846, 698; in 1847, 2,000; in 1848, 140. The Lieutenant-governor strongly depre- cates any extensive emigration of the poorer classes from the United Kingdom to Nova Scotia, on the ground that the province would not afford the people sufficient profit- able employment. OovERNHENT. — The administration rests on the same popular basis described in the history of Canada. There is a Lieutenant- governor appointed by the crown. The Executive Council consists of about six members, including the President, the Secretary of the province, and the Attorney and Solicitor-general. The Legislative Council comprises 19 members, including the Bishop of Nova Scotia. The Hotue of Aisemb'y is formed of 51 re- presentatives,of whom the countiesof Halifax, Pictou, Cumberland, Hants, King's, Queen's, Lunenburg, Sydney, and Guysborough, each return two members, and the other counties one member each. The island of Cape Breton sends six members to the Provincial Legislature ; vie., from Cape Breton County, one; Richmond Coimty, one; Inverness County, two; and the to.rnships of Sydney and Arichat, each one member. Halifax township returns two members, and the remaining 18 townships in Nova Scotia, one member each. The qualification for ebctors is the pos- session of land yielding an income vorth 40«. ; a franchise easily obtainable, owing to the low price of land. The Nova Scotians enjoy self-government in all things regarding their own internal affairs, as perfectly aa a reflective and prac- tical people can desire. Halifax is the only incorporated city ; but the townships possess some municipal privileges. Military Defences. — The militia returns for 1847, show a total of 36,066 men for Nova Scotia, and 8,182 for Cape Breton=-3 44,248. They are divided into regiments and battalions; and subdivided into about 420 companies, with 42 lieut.-colonels ; 51 majors; 362 captains ; 318 first lieutenants ; 349 second lieutenants; 42 adjutants; 12 pay-masters; and a full staff of commissioned and non-commissioned officers. The rank ailli file, between 16 and 18 years of age, are 3,618; between 18 and 45 years, 28,996; between 45 and 60 years, 5,839. The militia regiments are officered under commissions from the crown ; and when em- 102 LAWS AND LAW COURTS OF NOVA SCOTIA. bodied for actuul service, arc subject to inartial-law. Every man in the province has a right to carry a gun, and there are few unpractised in the use of fire-arms. Tlie militia of Nova Scotia could soon be ren- dered a very formidable force, to the number of about 50,000 men. Two or three regiments of the line are always stationed in the province, which is further protected by the visits of the of the royal navy in summer. The military posts and works, protected by Great Britain, and under the control of the Board of Ordnance, are Fort George or Citadel, Grand Battery, Ogilvie Battery, Princf; of Wales Tower, Port Pleasant Batte^, N.W. Arm Battery, Fort Need- ham, Fort Charlotte, George's Island, Fort Clarence, York Redoubt, Shcrbrooke Tower, Sambro Island, and Sackvillc, all at Huli- fax; and at Windsor, Fort Edward; at Annapolia Royal, Fort Anne ; and at Cape Breton, Sydney 13attery, Various batteries have been constructed at the expense of the colony, for the protection of the different harbours along the coast : there are guns at moat of them, which are in charge of the militia. Laws and Courts. — The laws in force are : 1st. Tlie common law of England. 2nd. The statute law of England. 8rd. The sta- tute law of Nova Scotia. There is a Court of Error, Court of Chancery, Supreme Court, Court of Vice-Admiralty, Court of Marriage and DivorcCj Courts of General Sessions of the Peace, and Courts of Probate. Besides these, the magistracy of the province, scat- tered over every county, possess a power of commitment for criminal ofl'cnces, and for the collection by summary process of debts under £10. The Supreme Court makes the circuit of the province, and holds sittings twice a-year in each county, in addition to three terms at Halifax. The criminal calen- dar is generally very light ; indeed, it may be safely asserted, that in no part of her Majesty's dominions is the average amount of crime less, in proportion to the population, than in Nova Scotia. In all these courts, natives of the province preside ; and the bar, which practises before them, numbering 140 members, includes the names of but very few not bom in Nova Scotia. The Covrt of Error consists of the Lieu- tenant governor and the Executive Council. Appeals lie from the Supreme Court, where the sum in dispute exceeds £300. The Court of Chancery is similar in its constitution, powers, and mode of procedure, to the Chancery Court in England. The Lieutenant-governor is (Chancellor, ex efficio He is ordinarily assisted by the Master of the Rolls and four Masters in Chancery. No salary is atttached to the office of Chancellor His fees, in 1844, amounted to about j630. The Master of the Rolls receives a salary of £650, without fees. Tlie Masters receive no salaries, but are entitled to fees regulated by law. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and four Assistant Judges. It i>itn at Halifax, three times a-year, and in each of the counties of the province, twice a-year, and exercises a general criminal and civil jurisdiction throughout the province. The travelling expenses of the judges, when on circuit, are defrayed by an allow- ance of one guinea per day to eaeli, paid from the provisional treasury. The Courts of General Session of the Peace are, in constitution and practice, similar to the Courts of Quarter Sessions in England, but the power of trial by jury therein, lias been transferred to the Supremo Court. Courts of Vice Admiralty. — The Jndcn of this court is also the Master of the Rolls in Chancery. No salary is attached to the office. Very little business is transacted in this court. Cfurt of Marriage and Divorce — CouHisfs of the Lieutenant-governor and the Executive Council; the Lieutenant-governor being Pre- sident and the Chief Justice Vice-president. Establialied by Provincial Act, 4 Vict., c. 1 3 Courts of Probate. — The Provincial Act, 5 Vict., c. 32, establishes courts for the Probate of Wills and granting Administra- tions in each county of the province. The courts consist respectively of a judge and registrar, paid by fees. The Press — is as free as that of England. There are at present 13 newspapers published in the capital, and five in the interior. Tlie circulation of English newspapers has in- creased an hundred-fold since the establish- ment of the line of steam-packets, and all the leading periodicals of the United King- dom are looked for with as much eagerness, and received with as much certainty, as the London newspapers were in Scotland and Ireland a few years ago. The cheap litera- ture of the mother country is also widely diffused over this province, while the more expensive books find their way to the collec- tions of ♦he wealthy or into the public libraries. Son ,for th British I Christ! I ened, ( strengt (ted. ™ I people VOL. I lire, The Hcio ftbe "No pllor £'6Q. ry of vcno ilated Chit'i I It fiHn El-year, d civil judges, I allow- .}., paid le Peace milar to England, rein, lia-" mrt. Judjio of I Rolls iu i to the sacted m -CouHist" .xccutive icing Pvc- iresident. ct., c. 13 ucial Act, 3 for the [miuistra- ice. The (udge and Enplnnd. published Inor. Tl.c rs has in- estahlish- [ts, and all itcd King- eagernesa, inty, as the [otland and .leap litcra- lalso widely Ic the more the coUcc Ithe public EDUCATION AND SCHOOLS IN NOVA SCOTIA. 198 The " Art Union " has been the means of promoting the dissemination of paintings and engravings. Among the public institu- tions, is the Halifax Subscription Library, the Halifax Mechanics' Subscription Library, the Halifax Mechanics' Institute, Dart- mouth Mechanics' Institute, Sydney (Cape Breton) Mechanics' Institute, Pictou Lit- erary and Scientific Society, and the Young Men's Debating Club, Halifax. There is a Central Board of Agriculture at Halifax; and twenty Agricultural Societies in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. There is also a Horticultural Society at Halifax. Education. — ^The provincial legislature, as also uany private individuals, have mode strenuous efforts for promoting the benefits of education. By an Act passed in 1811, any settlement consisting of 30 families, raising a sum of not less than £50 by assess- ment, after the manner of poor-rates, are entitled to £2S from the treasury of the pro- vince, towards the establishment of a school or schools. At Halifax there is a National, a CathoUo, Acadian, Grammar, and St George's schools. There are academies at Pictou, Windsor, Horton, Yarmouth, Anna oUs, &c. There are besides, in the several counties and dis- tricts of the province, 1,025 common schools, at which, in 1847, 84,380 hildren received instruction. A large numler of these are poor children, who are taught gratuitously. These schools are supported, in part, by the province, and partly by subscription. The expense of each school, including stationery and fuel, is about £30 per annum. There are also about 40 schools in different parts of the country, which are chiefly supported by the " Society for the Propagation of the Gospel." A respectable nigh school, or academy, is maintained in each county. AMract of Jietumt of Common Sc/u>oU,Jbr the Year 1842. County or District. Number of Schools. Scholan. Income. (Shillings and Peaco cxcoptod.) Paid. Froo. Total. From From Total. People. Treasury. Halifax, Western, exclusive of City 17 800 103 903 £380 £209 £699 Halifax, Eastern .... 13 , , . . 494 613 140 664 Colchester 63 1,600 165 1,665 1,419 329 1,749 Pictou 78 3,872 195 3,977 2,146 642 2,688 Sydney 36 on 100 1,011 849 301 1,150 Ouysborough .... 22 699 in 810 446 231 677 St. Mary's 13 337 54 391 233 90 324 llante 45 1,545 132 1,677 098 330 1,328 King's (11 . , , . , 1)075 309 1,445 Annapolis 55 1,478 ■ 292 1,770 1,830 367 2,187 Digby 49 1,079 109 1,188 921 306 1,226 Yarmouth 02 , , , , , , 1,276 282 1,668 District of Shelburne . 18 416 30 446 320 129 449 District of Barr'ngton . 24 608 65 673 358 153 611 Queen's 30 668 33 691 610 230 740 Lunenburg 63 1,384 180 1,664 1,139 101 1,641 Cumberland .... 65 1,698 98 1,796 1,689 348 1,937 Cape (Cape Breton . 47 1,616 156 1,771 1,019 316 1,334 Breton < Richmond 22 639 73 612 447 294 741 Island, f Inverness 386 » * Total . 756 18,949 1.S96 21,339 17,484 6,749 22,847 Combined Grammar and Common' Schools 42 1,603 151 1,894 2,883 1,620 4,365 Grand Total . 797 20,662 2,047 23,233 20,367 7,369 27,202 Sound education is of great importance for the preservation of the unity of the British empire; by instruction based on Christian principles, angry passions are soft- ened, prejudices allayed, virtuous tendencies strengthened, and self-improvement promo- ted. An industrious, moral, and contented people are more easily governed and retained VOL. I. in allegiance to sovereign rule than an igno- rant and semi-civilised race, whose passions and prejudices render them the tools of any designing demagogue. It is therefore the true policy of England, to diffuse among her people the knowledge of their actual con dition, to enable them rightly to appreciate their privileges and fulfil their duties. 2c 101 KXPENDITITHH FOR COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS IN NOVA SCOTIA. llic amount of the f^rKnt* from the reve- IIUDI u( tlie pntvinco tur the above schuoU, Riiil for tlie rollcKt^x niid ncadctnies in Nova Su4)ti» null CHpo Breton wm £U,WS, dis- trllmtod M fullowi i — Itathnuvt* C'oltovi . KlMliOolltir*, Windsor Hi, Mtrv'i Culloga , Aontlik ItiiltDn Mjrdnvy Aewfmny . Amwlnmv nt Port Hood . Inntruotuin of iho Indium UntMlw'i MeliuoU, tltllfaii WtMlnymi Nohniila, Halifax AfH«Mt RohiMtU, HkIIAix InAiirt Itthooli, H«llfbx . InAuit MshmiK Flctou Mflltuol In l'iH>r-lioiiM, Halifax Ommnmr Hohool, Ifalllkx Natinnitl MelinnI, Hnllftix noman (JHthnlla Hohool, Halifax AMilmny at Yarmnuth . INUu 1/Unonburg . IMtto Ann«|M)IU . Allilon Aoadomv at Annnpolis Aomlxmy at C'ufohi'iitcr , Dltltt Cumberland Ditto 8vdn«x Itltto Ou)nboroi)f(h (Jn)ie Hreton InvcrnoM Klcbmond . DIgby Bhelburne . Quopn'a County AtddU Hdhonl Ht. OrorgnV Hchnnl Comblnioo pro* llftlifux, ndcr thn , Thcro \ 40 itt\i- jonncctcd 1 CO a lec- I learning n(loavour» j l)tt\i>ou»ie nil union ' c»tttbU«ii- liiitohct of I ;)uii(lation. other colo- U»«\i<«l the ever, been ' STATE OP RELIGION, CHARITABLE SOCIETIES, AND CRIME. IWV " adhering to the Wc:"ova Scotia and the other for Cape Breton. The bishcTi of Halifax has under him a vicar-gcnerai and 13 priests. The bishop of Aricliat fCape Breton) a vicar-gencral an*? ID priests. The diflferent churches ire sustt cd by those who take an interest in them; and religious distinctions are happily attended with few inconveniences. There arc in tht province a Diocesan Church Soeict" a Bible Society, Naval imd Military Socie' ■'■ . ^ea- Icyan Methodist Missionary Au; Uian So- ciety, a Baptist Education Society, a Board for Foreign and Domestic Missions, a Lay Association in support of the Chureli of Scotland, St. John's Church Young Men's Religious Association, a Halifax Bethel Union, a Pictou Auxiliary Bible Society, and a Seamen's Friend Society. Of charitable societies there werf: also, in 1818, a Nova Scotia Philanthrapic Society, a "Youths'" ditto, St. George's, Charitable Irish, Juvenile Charitable Irish, Highland, and North British societies. A Halifax Dls- jMjnsary, an African Friendly, and African Abolition Society. Of temjwrance societies there are the Ilal'^^r, the Halifax Female, Dartmouth, St. "*.' r' and St. Patrick's societies; Halifax 1 ^.uig Men's, and the Pictou Total Abstinence societies; and the Sous of Temperance. The Roman Catholic bishop took the tem- perance pledrfc publicly, and then adminis- tered it to muny of his congregation. Some of the temperance processions number 400 niumbers. Great good has been effected by these valuable institutions. Of masonic luil(/cs there are IS in Nova Scotia, and one in Cape Breton; and of the " St. John's Priory of Knights Templars and Appendant Orders, holden of the Supreme Grand Con- clave of Scotland," of which Lord Olcniycu is the grand master, and the Earl of Dai housie the grand seneschai, there are three, viz.— tho St. Andrew's Royal Arch Chapter^ the Thistle, and tho Acadia. Crime.— 1\m "Blue Book" for iat7, reports a nearly total absence of crime, and that there are no debtors in tho prisons. Finances. — The revenue derived from taxes, viz., customs, excise, light dues, and incidental, was, in 1832, jei7,2y9 ; in 1886, i;4y, IfiO ; in 1 846, €82,776. No part of tho revenue of the province is derived from direct tiaes. The customs duties are levied under the authority of the Act of the Im- perial Parliament 8 and 9 Vic, for regulating the trade of the British possessions abroad, and the Acts in amendment thereof. Tho amount of those d ities collected at the custom-house, and p vid into the provincial treasury for the year ending 5th January, 1847, was £29,251 steriing. The colonial ii lost dut us levied by authority of an Act L *he Ph)Tincial Legislature, passed Slst T, (\.ch, 18 W), yielded ia 18 VT ^643,531. The total revenue collected in 1847 was, fixed custc s, j£20,251 ; colonial imposts, €43,531 ; .^iiit dues, £3,318; total, £76,101; incidental, £6,076, including £4,760 received from savings' bank, proceeds of bills of ex- change, &c. ; receipts in aid of revenue, £18,569, including amount of bills drawn by the collector of customs on the Receiver- general in England, £3, 4^18; stipends of clergymen of Nova Scotia paid from tho miUtary chest, £3,062 ; deducted from post- office revenue, £6,502; bills drawn by bishop and archdeacon on her majesty's treasury, and by clergymen on the Society for Propagating the Gospel, £4,700; casual and territorial revenue, £9,678, including rent and proceeds of her Majesty's coal, mines in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, £5,714; sales of crown lands, £3,408; fees, £549. The total receipts obtained in 1847 were, therefore, €111,025. The popii- lation of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton (iu round numbers) is 800,000, and the taxation about £110,000 a-year, the sum contributed by each individutd in the colony is only seven shillings per annum. The tariff for 1847 was fixed by the legis- lature of Nova Scotia as follows : — Anchors, cables, ashes, barley, beans, books, coal, coin, copper wrought or cast, corn, fish, oil, flax, furniture (working tools belonging to emigrants for use), hemp, hides, horns, iron, wrought, east, &c., muchincry, nets, ores. 196 FINANCES, REVENUE, EXPENDITURE, TARIFF. palm oil, pitch, plate, rags, rice, rosin, sails, salt, seeds, skins, sugar, maple, tar, tobacco unmFJiufactured, tow, turpentine, whalebone, — aJU admitted duty free. The duties on some of the other principal articles imported were, on candles — tallow. Id. per lb. ; wax, &c., 8d. per lb. ; chocolate or cocoa paste, Id. per lb. ; coffee, 4s. 4rf. per cwt. ; clocks under 20«. value, 5«. ; others, 10». ; materials for clocks 20 per cent, on value; leather, sole dressed, 1^. per lb. ; ditto upper, \d. ; boots and shoes 10 per cent, on value; spirits made within the province, 1». 4d. per gal., except rum, which is charged with 7d. per gal.; spirits imported. Is. 8d. per gal. ; sugar, bastard, 4s. per cwt. ; crushed, 6». per cwt. ; refined, 8«. per cwt. ; musco- vado, Zs. per cwt.; tea, black, Hd. per lb. : gunpowder, Sd. per lb.; tobacco manufac- tured, Hd. per lb; wines, Is. 9d. to 2s. 6d. per gal. j manufacture of wood, 10 per cent.; all other goods, wares, and merchandize, 5 per cent. The light dues yielded in 1847 £3,318, and are levied at the rate of 4j- per ton on every vessel cleared at any cus- tom-house in the province, and on every vessel coming into any port or place in the province from any port or place out of the province. A certificate of these dues being paid, exempts a vessel from any further payiaent to the 31st March following the date of the certificate. By means of this fund, which is held sacred to the building and maintenance of light-houses, and lib- erally supported by Canada, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, 20 light houses are in fiill operation, under the management of a board of commissioners. About £10,000 a-year is locally levied in direct taxation for the support of the poor, and county charges. Every adult is com- pelled to perform statute labour on the roads; but this labour may be commuted by a money payment, if preferred. Roads and bridges are maintained by this con- tribution, in aid of which the legislature grants an annual sum, which has risen as high as £35,000, and seldom falls below £25,000 a-year. ITie expenditure of Nova Scotia in 1847 was, civil establishment, £12,166; customs, £9,462 ; judicial, £5,688 ; ecclesiastical, £7,662; legislature, £3,745; militia, £600; pensions, £920; roads and bridges, £30,863 ; education, £11,182; navigation security, £4,576; boimtips, £20; postal communi- cation, £7,163; humane establishment on Sable Island, £2,156; famine relief for Ireland and Scotland, £1,000; penitentiary, £1,160; rev.airs of public buildings, £1,593; principal and interest of funded debt, £9,762; other miscellaneous disbursements, £12,595; total in 1847, £122,222; and in 1846, £109,905. The salaries are, lieutenant-governor, £3,500: provincial secretary, £1,000; trea- surer, £4'80; commissioner of crown lands. Nova Scotia, £500 ; in Cape Breton, £332 ; collector of colonial duties, £560; deputy post master, £500; surveyor-general, £150; private secretary to governor, £250. Law : chief justice, £1,000; four puisne judges, £2,510; master of the rolls, £650; attor- ney-general, £600; solicitor-general, £100. Ecclesiastical: bishop, £2,0C^; archdeacon £300. Legislature. — Legislative Council expenses, £575; speaker of House of Assembly, £160; pay of members of the House of Assembly and travelling expenses, £2,096; clerk of the Hotise of Assembly, £240; assistant clerk to the House of Assembly, £160. The bishop of Nova Scotia has £2,000 a-year; the archdeacon, £300; and there are from 28 to 30 clergymen ; missionaries of the Society for Propagating the Gospel, with salaries varying from £150 to £170 per annum. The Ecclesiastical charge for 1847, was £7,662. Paid by Great Britain. £1,840 is voted towards steam commis- sions, viz., between Pictou and Quebec, £500; Pictou, Prince Edward Island, and Civpc Breton, £340; Halifax and Yarmouth, £500; and £500 to the " North America," which plies between Halifax and Newfound- land. The "Blue Book" for 1847 gives the following recapitulation of expenditure (shil. lings and pence excepted) : — Establishment!. Paid by Great Britain Civil Establishment . . . Contingent Expenses . . Lefjislaturo Judicial Establishment . . Contingent Expenses Ecclesiastical Establishment Military Customs Miscellaneous Expenses . . Pensions Tot«a £4,407 iJ,G48 2,480 43 7,062 9,383 7,987 200 Paidhy Colony. £3,200 2,009 3,748 2,480 683 *696 80 73,792 720 £ 34,818 £87.4 ')6 £122,221. r^': EXPENDITURE FROM THE BRITISH TREASURY FOR NOVA SCOTIA. 197 P»ldby Colony. £3,200 2,009 3,74S 2,480 683 '695 80 73,792 720 In the year 1847 the public debt of the province was £77,750, of which sum about i£50,000 was in circulation as paper money, under the guarantee of the provincial gov- ernment. The colonial expenditure for the year 1846-47, on account of Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, New Bniuawick, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland, is stated in a parliamentary return, dated 20th April, 1849, to be as follows : — Military expendi- ture, £170,464; civil expenditure, £12,077; naval expenditure, a;;J,115; total, £184,656. The expenditure incurred by Great Britain for military protection, and in aid of the civil establishment was, in 1847, as follows : — Supplies for rations of provisions and forage, £8,709; fuel and light, £2,636; regimental and staff pay, £31,261; land and water i lansport contingencies, &c., £5,765 ; total (shillings and pence excepted), £48,374; military works of defence, £14,046 ; subsist- ence royal engineers, £1,815; subsistence royal artillery, £3,848; ordnance establish- ment, £ 1,947 ; barrack estabUshment, £2,752 ; barrack supplies, £317; wages, £1,408; = £26,136. In aid of the civil establish- ment, stipends for missionaries, £3,062; grand total, £77,572. The above is the total expense defrayed by the commissariat chest for the services stated ; but many offi- cers of the line receive their pay through their agents in London. The troops do not receive any advantage from the colony, except marching-money. The amount of bills drawn during the year 1847, was £104,979. Commerce. — The geographical position of Nova Scotia, its fine harbours, and the mari- time character of the people — to whom the sea is a familiar object from childhood, and, " Who turn what some deem danger to delight," all indicate that this almost insulated pro- vince is eminently adapted for a commercial emporium. Sir John Harvey, in his Report to Earl Grey with the " Blue Book " for 1847, says: " The farmers' sons in the midland c aunties, where »hip-bu'lding is also carried on, become shipwrights, mariners, or masters of coasters and plaistermen, just ns the prosf, 'cts of advantage are presented, or acci- dent may givt a bias to the mind. Further east the coal trade, the supply of West India produce to Canada or of agricultural productions to Newfound- land, offer to the enterprising their peculiar attractions. The west has its gnndstones, cordwood, and other articles, to -onvey to the United States i and on the southern seajoard the coast and deep sea_ fish?ries people the rugged caves and inlets wnich indent it with a hardy race, to whom farming and gardening are but the amusements of an idle hour, whose homes and whose occupations are on the sea. An aotiv» coasting trade springs naturally in a country a* situated, it becomes intercolonial almost as soon as it is generated ; as in some cases only a narrow strait o ' arm of the sea divides one colony from another, w tiile the supply of the British West Indies very early u tracted towards those islands from Nova Scotia an ( tensive trade in fish and lumber. " Prior to 1824 the foreign trade of Nova Scotia was very limited, but the changes in tl.e commercial policy of the empire, suggestea and carried through by Mr Huskisson, opened a wider field for colomal enterprise, of which the North Americans were no' slow to avail themselves. With every relaxation yielded by the Imperial Parliament the foreign com- merce of the colonies has attained a further develop- ment, and Nova Scotia vessels, besides their tratno with the neighbouring states, Canada and the West Indies, now trade to the Baltic, the Mediterranean, China, the Mauritius, the East Indies, the Brazils, the Havnnah, and our merchants and mariners are fast acquiring an accurate ocquaintance with distant seas and with foreign markets in every part of the world. " Carrying out the policy suggested in your Lord- ship's despatch of Slst December, 1846, and co- operating under the auspices of Lord Elgin, the Colonial Legislatures have adopted measures for establishing among the northern group a free inter- colonial trade, only modified by considerations which touch sources of revenue already pledged for indis- pensable fiscal obligations. " One further change is now anxiously desired and as confidently anticipated. It is the realization of that policy, suggested in the correspondence between Lord Falmerston and Mr. Bancroft, for an unre- strained reciprocal commerce between Great Britain and the United States, and the repeal of the Naviga- tion Laws. Such measures would give a stimulus to the trade of all those colonies ; and their population would gladly welcome American vessels into their rivers and bays, provided the whole continent south to Mexico were open to their tonnage ; and if their fish, timber, deals, coal, and agricultural productions were admitted on equally favourable terms into the ports of {he United States. Negotiations have been suggested, I believe, between the governments oi Canada and Washington on the basis of the Bill recently introduced, to Congress by Mr. Orinnell, and Nova Scotia would cheerfully avail herself of any ad- vantages which Canada may thus secure.' The trade betweeen Nova Scotia and Great Britain has, for some years, been al- most stationary, especially as regards imports from the parent state. The exports of the province have largely increased between 1827 and 1847, especially as regards the com- merce of the West Indies and North Ame- rica. The total value of the exports was nearly quadrupled in 20 years; and the shipping employed was increased in about the same proportion. If the government of the United States granted reciprocity of trade to British America, Nova Scotia would be materially benefited by such aa act of iustice. 11)8 COMMERCE AND SHIPPING OP NOVA SCOTIA. The trade of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton with different countries, will be seen by tlie following returns for the years 18^17 and 1827 : Imports, Export!, Shipping. Oreat Britain. Britihh FosseasioM. United States. Foreign State-. Total West Indies. North America. Elsewhere. Imports m 1847— Nova Scotia— value . . . Cape Breton „ ■ . . Total Im])orU in 1847 . . Ditto in 1827 . . £326,726 4,189 £28,850 £177,040 — 10,560 £1,469 2,641 £300,418 8,966 £169,984 1,112 £1,004,487 27,468 £330,913 £28,860 £187,5iX) £4,110 £309,383 £171,106 £1,031,966 £307,907 £190,309 £312,603 £810,819 E:^ort» in 1847— Nova Scotia — ^value . . . Cape Breton „ . . . Total Exporto in 1847 . . Ditto in 1827 . . £68,217 3,687 £201,808 £207,808 607 29,196 £6,467 1,120 £258,281 10,669 £31,630 6,679 £773,211 67,860 £71,804 £202,415 £237,004 £6,687 £474,960 £38,309 £831,071 £121,617 £107,738 £30,922 £267,277 Shipping in 1847 — Nova Scotia Cape Breton Total Tonnage, in 1847 . Ditto in 1827 . Increase " Tom. 63,370 3,679 Tom. Tom. 123,909 25,615 Tom. Tom. 174,406 18,679 Tom. 6,773 1,032 Tom. .%7,458 49,005 67,049 22,615 149,624 100,324 • • 193,083 6,805 416,463 123,813 10,874 44,434 49,200 • • 189,010 282,660 i The principal imports at Nova Scotia in 1847, from Great Britain weie, dry goods, je81,128j cordage, £23,510 chain cables, j67,249j canvass, £3,319; orthcnwarc, £6,084; books and stationery, £3,401; glass, £6,173; hardware, £12,011; hats or caps, £2,565 ; iron and castings, £27,990 ; indigo, £2,125 ; nets and lines, £7,385 ; nails, £5,985; linseed oil, £3,425; paint, £4,584 ; iron pipes, £2,893 ; tea, £53,987 ; sugar, £5,075 ; salt, £13,347 ; soap, £5,740; stores, £2,082; wine, £^461; brandy, £10,721 ; Geneva, £5,715. The imports at Cape Breton were in pro- portion to those of Nova Scotia. The exports to Great Britain, from Nova Scotia, consisted chiefly of— flour, £8,079; com, £3,201; meal, £5,433; lumber and timber, £35,200. Fish was exported to the West India colonies to the value of £117,000; and lumber, £o5,000. To the United States, tlie Nova Scotia colonists exported fish in 1847, to the value of £160,700; grindstones, £13,221 ; gypsum, £6,746 ; unrefined sugar, £8,668; firewood, £6,132; and coal, £12,000. To foreign states, they exported fish to the value of £30,000. The grindstones exported amount to 1,500 tons— 42,000 pieces. The value of the grind- stones raised in Cumberland County, in 1847, was £13,221. The gypsum exported, 25,000 tons. Coal exported from Nova Scotia, 75,000 chaldrons; and from Cape Breton, 32,000 chaldrons. Salt-springs exist in the neighbourhood of Mount Thom, in the County Cumberland, from which salt has been made. These springs are numerous, in the eastern section of the province. Eight miles N. of the town of Pictou is a bed of copper ore, intermixed with majestic trees, which have been converted into coal, but still retain their natural form aud external appearance; and in some instances, the vege- table fibres of the wood, impressions of tht leaves, bark, and all those figiu'cs so commuii on the surface of the living plant. Some- times the whole tree has been transformed into lignite; in other instances only a partial change has been effected, and the ancient herbage of a productive climate is now hall stone, half coal, intermixed with green car- bonate of coipcr, forming a beautiful elHo- rescence in their delicate crevices. The Albion coal mines at Pictou, in Nova Scotia, yielded, in 1828, 4,467 chaldrons; in 1831, 8,345 chaldrons; in 1833, 19,890 chaldrons; and in 1847, 35,104 chnldrons ; value £42,123. The strata is similar in r tUo' tal. )4,487 1 27,468 i 773,211 67,860 j 831,071 ' ;267,277 I Tom. 367,458 49,005 iinty, ml 3xported, Noval am Cape ings exist rhom, in bich salt I iumcrou9.j e. Eiglit a bed ot itic trees, coal, but L external tlic vcgc- lus of tht commouj Sonie- nsformed 1 a partial I e ancient now halt \ green car- .tiful elHo- in Novu 1 I chaldrons') kd, 19,800 1 chaldrons ; 1 I similiu' in I COAL MINES. MANUFACTURES OF NOVA SCOTIA. 19& formation to those of the Staffordshire coal- fields. The Sydney mines, at Cape Breton, yielded, in 1847, 26,061 chaldrons, New- castle measure; value £37,528. Tlie Bridge- port mines, 68 chaldrons, 18 bushels, New- castle measure; value £98 I2s. 2d. The Cape Breton coals are similar to those of Newcastle, in England. His late B«yal Highness the Duke of York obtained from the crown in 1825, a lease for sixty years of all the mines and minerals of every description in Nova Scotia and in Cape Breton, excepting those con- tained in lands previously granted, where the crown had not reserved the minerals. This right was subleased to the " General Mining Association," at a fixed rent of £3,000 per annum. The operations of this association commenced in the year 1827, and have hitherto been confined to the working of coal-mines and the discovery of iron ore. The coal-miues worked in Nova Scotia are those termed the Albion, on the banks of the East River, in the district of Pictou, distant eight and-a-half miles from the town of that name. A rail- road has been constructed from the mines to the port of shipment, as the East River is not navigable for burthensome craft to within six miles of the mines. The coal is raised from several shafts by the aid of steam and winding engines. The es- tablishment at the mines consists of about 200 persons, employed in the mines, the foundry, railroad, barges, brick-kilns, &e. ; and the town of New Glasgow owes its birth to the presence and operations of the General Mining Association. It is right, however, to state, that some of the colo- nists complain, that the mineral wealth of the province has been granted to the cre- ditors of the late Duke of York, and the riches which would have materially bene- fited their country, and contributed to their public revenue, are abstracted for the benefit of a few individuals. The General Mining Association have, however, as far as practicable, lessened the evii of the grant by the application of English money to the working of the minct.. Its capital, £400,000, divided into 20,000 shares, of £20 each, has been applied to the opera- tions in Nova Scotia. The Report to her majesty's government, : for 1847, contains the following account of the state of manufactures in the province : — " The manufactures of Nova Scotia are, as yet, of I Ml extremely simple and unpretending character. Coarse floths, or homespuns, woven l>^ the wives and daughters of the peasantry, are made in all the settle- ments, and are generally worn by that class ; the more affluent dressing in Eug sh broadcloth only on the Sabbath. Some of these home fabrics are of hand some patterns. Fulling-mills exist in the older town shijps, in which this cloth is thickened and dyed. Where these are too distant the dyeing is a simple household process. Sheep are kept on every farm, and su|)ply the raw material. Coarse flannel for under garments, bed linen, woollen blankets, and carpets are also made. Flax grows luxuriantly j but hand- spun and woven is not considered profitable, the British article finding its way into the province at prices so low. Power-looms are unknown ncre. Tan- ning, to the extent of the preservation of all the hides grown in the country, and of those occasionally imported from South America, is also practised. The yards are not extensive, except in the neighbournood of the capital (in some of which steam power is used), and many farmers tan their own leather in hogsheads sunk by the road-side, or in pits of the simplest con- struction. Leather is imported occasionally from Canada, and sheepskins and wool are exported to the United States. " Saw- mills are numerous ; but the extensive and costly establishments, common to Canada and New Brunswick, do not exist in Nova Scotia, as we have not the pine forests to sustain them ; but all the lum- ber required for the construction of buildings, and of ships and vessels for the supply of our own commerce or for exportation, is sawed within the country. Pine lumber is extensively shipped from the eastern ports to Newfoundland, from the western to the West In- dies, forming a deck load for vessels carrying out lish. Plank and deals are also manufactured for exporta- tion to the mother country, and, of late, sleepers for railroads have been in some demand. Occasional car- goes of ton timber are also shipped ; but this branch of trade, never very profitable to individuals or advan- tageous to the country ere the forests had receded before the progress of cultivatiun, is less so now, and has been almost abandoned. Of iron manufactures for exportation, except stoves to some of the colonies, and chain cables to the United States, there are none. Forges, however, are found in all the villages and hamlets, and are numerous in the larger tov ns. These supply iron-works for mills, ship-building, agricultural carnages and implements, and shoes for catti' Stoves are imported from (ho Carron works of Canada and the United States, and u-on manufactures of all kinds are largely imported from the mother country. The iron-mines of Nova Scotia are not worked, for want of capital. An expe- riment was tried at Moose River some years ago, by a company, whose skill and knowledge were not cqu.'.l to their enterprise. The capital was sunk, and the work abandoned. " Leather, to he extent of the whole quantity tanned in the country, is manufactmed every year. Little is ever exported, while bomo comes in from England, Canada, and the United States. Boots, shoes, saddlery, and harness, are made up in all the towns ,"and villages, but the supply (of the quantity and at the prices to compete with imported articles) is not equal to the demand, England and the United States largely supplyinjj the market, injuring it may be, for a time, but ultimately stimulating and im- proving the domestic manufacture. " Household furniture, carts, carriages, ploughs, and other agricultural implements, buckets, tub- 200 FISHERIES, AND THEIR VALUE IN NOVA SCOTIA. SHIPPING. ban«ls, and boxes, are made in Krcat quantities, and various manufactories of wood nourish in Nova Sco- tia, and yield profitable employment to those who conduct these branches of business. " Tobacco, confectionery, printing, and wrapping paper, hats, and some other articles are manufactured in the neighbonrhocd of Halifax, where are also Rtfek-al distilleries for the preparation of spirits from m'-lasses. Bonnets of bleached grass, and hats of craw, are made in many cf the rural districts. Build- 'ngs are of wood almost universally. Some good stone and brick houses are to be seen in Halifax, and the ot Her larger towns, but these form exceptions to the ge- neral rule. Stone houses carelessly built are apt to oe damp in this climate ; a prejudice against them '" in consequence generally entertained, which, added to the low price of lumber, gives wood the preference, and may for the next 20 years. But, as wood becomes scarce, more permanent structures will take the place of those usually decaying, or liable to destruction by fire. Stone for building materials, abounds in Nova Scotia. Granite of the finest quality, on the soutli coast, is inexhaustible. Freestone is found all along the northern shore, and slate quite equal to that of Wales in the central region." There are no means of obtaining correct returns with regard to the fisheries, as the fishermen are not bound to take out shipping papers, and very few of the small shallops are registered. In 1837, the dry fish ex- ported was 176,156 quintals; pickled fish, 47,693 barrels. In 1847, according to the Blue Book, the quantity of dry fish exported from Nova Scotia Proper was 224,859 quin- tals, value ^678,600; pickled fish, 206,91 1 bar- rels, 82 tierces, 5,816 half baiTels, and 4,848 kits, value £120,753 ; 3,089 boxes smoked herrings, value £1,506. Total for Nova Scotia, value £200,859. For Cape Breton, 56,312 quintals dry fish, value £2't,419; 2,985 barrels mackerel, value £17,200; 335 barrels herriugs, value £1,492; 335 barrels salmon, value £670; 12,399 barrels pickled fish, value £10,124; seal skins, £810; oil of aU kinds, £8,300. Total, £e3,04;i. The official Report for 1847 stales, that around the shores of the Basin of Mines and Bay of Fundy, great quantities of shad and bass are caught in wears, at every flux and reflux of the tide. The Bflsin of Annapolis has a fishery peculiar to itself, of small her- rings caught in wears, which are smoked and packed in boxes. These are much prized, and find a ready sale iu foreign markets. The cod and haddock fisheries are actively prosecuted all along the southern coast; these fish are found in deep water very near the shores, but the principal catch is taken on the banks about ten miles off, the poorer fishermen rowing or sailing out in their whale-boats, and returning every night. Small decked vessels ore fitted out by those who are able to keep them, and these gene- rally remain on the grounds till they have completed their lading. The Nova Scotians also participate in the Gulf and Labrador fisheries, and pay occasional visits to the banks and shores of Newfoundland. The export of cod-fish, in 1847, was 818,822 quintab, valued at £125,442 sterling. In spring the shoals of mackerel, making their way from the south to the north, and returning in the fall, glide along the coasts and headlands of Nova Scotia, and penetrate into the coves and inlets, where immense quantities of them are caught with seines, and hauled on shore ; 600 barrels are by no means an uncommon draught, and 1,000 are sometimes taken. In the autumn of 1846, mackerel were taken in such abundance, that it was difficult to procure salt and barreb for their preservation. Mackerel are also taken in nets all around the shores. Herrings are caught at times in great quantities. The following return for 1847 will give an idea of the pickled fish trade, which is annually becoming of more impor- tance, and which, were the markets of the United States thrown open to Nova Scotia, is capable of almost indefinite extension: — From Nova Scotia Proper. — Alewives, 6,793 barrels, 31 kits; herrings, 22,043 bar- rels, 433 half barrels, 150 kegs, 353 thirds of barrels; mackerel, 186,406 barrels, 5,078 half barrels, 295 quarter barrels, 3,187 thirds of barrels; salmon, 388 tierces, 5,101 bar rels, 305 half barrels, 413 thii'ds of barreled 450 kits. From Cape Breton,. — 32,919 >irrei8, valued at £29,486 sterling. The attempts to prosecute the whale fish- ery have not yet assumed a permanent character, or been attended with success. The Blue Book for 1847 states the number of ships built in Nova Scotia Proper at 221 ; tonnage, 25,927 ; and at Cape Breton, 31 ; tonnage, 3,521. The vessels registered in the province in 1844 were — Under 50 Tons. SO Tons and upwardt. Nova Scotia . Cape Breton . No. 1,268 324 Ton_a<^. 35,8tJ0 10,146 No 632 132 Tonnaj^i. 68,086 9,296 ToUl . . 1,882 46,006 764 77,382 Property annually created. — Adopting the lOSOl sne- I lave 1 ians I idor I the] The' 1,822 iking I , anal wasts { etrate ' mense 1 leines, by no I lOOare' 1846, idance, | It and ackerel I ad the a great I or 1847 h trade, B impor- s of the a Scotia, ision: — Mewives, ,043 bar- 53 thirds ' ;ls, 5,078 87 thirds 101 bar [f barrels, 318, valued ihale iish- )ermanent luccess. jtates the kia Proper at Cape Irovince in Tonna*,''- 68,08tt 9,296 MOVABLE AND IMMOVABLE PROPERTY IN NOVA SCOTIA. 201 principles laid down relative to Canada (p. 155), it may be estimated that 300,000 in- habitants of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton require each for tlieir daily support one shilling a-day, or about £18 a-year = £5,400,000. The property annually cre- ated and not consumed, may average three- pence a-day, or £4 10*. a-year = £1,350,000; total annually created about seven million sterling (£6,750,000). Movable and Immovable Property. — Land under regular cultivation about 400,000 aeirs — average value £10 per acre = £4,000,000 ; half cultivated and partly cleared, 600,000 acres, at £3 an acre = £1,200,000; un- cleared, forest and \n\d land, 5,000,000 acres, at 5s. an acre = £1,250,000. Houses about 60,000, at £20 each = £1,200,000. Furni- ture, &c., about £20 for each houses £1,200,000. Apparel and personal pro- perty, each person, £4 ; for 300,000 inhabi- tants, £1,200,000. Manufactories, distil- leries, &c., about £100,000. Government buildings, forts, churches, colleges, schools, gaols, &c., £1,000,000. Roads, canals, bridges, wharfs, dykes, &c., £2,000,000. Mines, quarries, forests, and fisheries, £5,000,000. Horses, £250,000; horned cattle, £800,000; sheep,£250,000;swineandpou]try,£150,000. Ships and boats, £100,000. Merchandize and cash in hand, £1,000,000. Total esti- mated value of movable and immovable property in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, £20,700,000. Banks. — Three corporate institutions, viz., the Halifax Banking Company, the Bank of Nova Scotia, and a Branch of the London Bank of British North America. Coins. — The Queen's duties are commonly paid in dollars at 4s. 2d. sterling, or doub- loons at £3 4s. sterling each or in Britisli silver coin. The English shilling is by law equal to Is. M. currency ; the former value of the quarter dollar, which it has displaced, and the sovereign and the doubloon are made legal tenders at 25s. and £4 currency respectively, and the dollar at 5.9. 2ai. There are no provincial coins, exccjit copper pence and halfpence. The amount of coin in rlreulation cannot i>c ascertained. Paper Money. — The notes of the Provincial Treasury in circulation on 31st December, 1847, were £47,974. The notes of the Bank of Nova Scotia in circulation, £50,000; notes of the Bank of British North America, £48,000; notes of the Halifax Banking Company, aliout £42,000 ; total paper cur- rency, £187,974. VOT,. I. Accounts are kept in " Halifax currency." The pouud currency is equal to Ids. ster- ling — thus £125 currency = £100 sterling. To reduce to currency add one-fourth; to bring currency into sterling deduct one- fifth. Weights and Measures. — The same as in \ England. j Course of Exchange in 1847. — Bills on \ her majesty's government at 30 days' sight, [ 14 per cent. Private bills at 60 days' sight, ' 13 per cent. Bills on the United States, 5 per cent, premium. Average Prices of various produce Nova Scotia in 1847 : — Wheat, per impt ..iX bushel, 4'S. lOrf. j wheaten flour, per barrel of 196 lbs., 27s. ; wheaten bread, per 2 lb. loaf, 'M. ; horned cattle, £8 to £10; horses, £12 to £30 ; sheep, 10s. to 20s. ; goats, 16s. to 32s. ; swine, per lb., 3rf. to ^\d. ; milk, the quart, 3rf. ; butter, fresh, Orf. to lOrf. per lb.; cheese, &d. to \0d. per lb. ; beef, 3rf. to Gd. per lb. ; mutton, 3chant vessels receive £8 ster- ling per month ; sailors £.'i 4s. sterling per month ; mechanics are generally i:i demand, and can in ordi- nary seasons, earn from -Is. to 8s. sterling per day." 2 n V'--. ii *.i02 STEAM-BOATS AND RAILROADS IN NOVA SCOTIA. Pogi Office. — Branches extend into every settlement. Steam Conveyances, — The fine line of vnail steam packets originated by 1)10 e- ther between Pictou u-.d 'rince Edwai'd Island, Lines of stage-cDacliesi run t' rjce v;-week from Halifa'ic to Pictou and Auna^jolis. Kaiiroadg. — One rail has been laid down in Nova Scotia for the convey since of coals from the Pictou mines to the loadin"; ground. There are several proposed rovited for a trunk line of railway from Halifax to Quebec : 1st. From HaUfax to WindMir, 45 miles; Annapohs, 85 ; to entrance of ij>ay of Fundy, thence by a steamer to St. .John's in New Brunswick, 45 ; St. John's to Fredericton, 65 ; to Woodstock, 63 ; to Grand Falls, 71 ; to Riviere du Loup, 106; to Quebec, 110; total distance by the St. John River from Halifax to Quebec, 600 miles. This is a mixed route by railway and steam-boat. 2nd. By the Bay of Chaleurs route, 635 miles. 3rd. The " direct route" from White- haven Harbour near Canso, at the N.E. extremity of Nova Scotia, to Pictou, along the coast to Bay Verte, and through the centre of New Brunswick, 652 miles. 4th. This route combines the line through Nova Scotia from Halifax, and the direct route through the centre of New Brunswick, 595 miles. 5th. The Whitehaven route through Nova Scotia, with the Eastern or Bay Cha- leurs route through New Brunswick to Que- bec, 692 miles. Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen, who is considered the ablest surveyor ii the royal navy, made a survey by order of gov- ernment, of the proper port for the junction of sea and land communication between Great Britain and British North America, with reference to the projected railway from Nova Scotia to Canada. Havl-j satisfied himself that the port of Canso was ineligibli!, although less than 2,000 miles from the W. coast of Ireland, the admiral, after examin- ing other huvcus, gave his opinion in favour of Whitehaven, in lat. 45° 10' N., long. IM" 10' W., 130 statute miles N. E. of Ilali- fat. The report of Admiral Owen contams the A iliwinj, ;iCcount of Whitehaven : — "Wo fount, d.'n haven to be a splendid and conve- niunt i^oi't, a' o:'. i.i:!ous as Halifax Harbour, between Oeort{e'a Isl . ! \^hif I ah tt dangers we could discover. " Tie iittven iiiiishes to the N. at Pleasant Uiver, nSso \ey convenient, and navigable for two miles by .".els \,f 'my burden, and for small cruft two miles I. isr fiUU to its head, which northern extremity is Only four rr.ik'i from the high road from Ouysborough and the port of Canso. " Whitehaven Island, the outer point to seaward of the haven, is 140 feet high, and may be considered as the N. E. extremity of Nova Scotia, and the nearest available point of this continent to the British Islands, although iiRclf isolated. The Acadian (French) set- tlement of Molasses Harbour is separated to the west- ward by a very narrow isthmus 01 mere beach from the western part of the haven ; besides which there are not now more than eight or ten establishments around Whitehaven. " Our inquiries relative to ice in winter were very satisfactory'. Pleasant River is generally frozen all down to the haven in January and February, and in severe winters the haven has been known to bo en- tirely frozen over, but only once known to have hap- pened to the southwai'd cf Fisherman's Isknd ; and the nature of the coast and entrances precludes the possibility of packed or drift ice accumulating, so that the ingress and egress is always free and open. " Itisnotmore or less subject to foga than the whole of this south-eastern coast of Nova Scotia, which is all seriously inconvenienced by this impediment to comfortable navigation ; and the soundings, with attention, may always give sufiicient indication of approach, and the rocky ledges of the coast form at almost continued steep narrior of land." And in another Report of 5th September, 1846, the distinguished hydrographer says: — " Whl*thaven is not only most conveniently situated — but i', a . nlendid and most commodious port, whose i, ."'uiate e.itrance and its harbour are never ob- structed or incommoded by drift or packed ice. It has very great facilities of approach, and has only two outlying dangers or small rocks between the port and the open sea, and these only about half a mile from the shore ; and in short its nautical facilities of attain- ment greatly exceed those of Halifax or any other ])oint on the coast that I have seen. The upjier part of it" fine and beautiful harbour (like Bedford Basin and Halifax Harbour) in some winters fio' ze over in jinrt, but never so as to obstruct its external commu- nications, its approach, or its perfect safety; and its configuration, ab regards the proximate coasts, pre- vents the nccunuilation of drift or packed ice either to obstruct or incommode it. " Its shiires oH'cr no impediment") to railroad ter- iniiii wiicivvur coineniLnt, and the vic'nity is (in my ^r- ^i g- Li- US ve- Ben ind nny and BCU- iter; (Ugh lome dini? ands liver, es by miles lily is rough laward lidercd nearest alands, ih) set- le west- :h from h there shmenU ere very ro7.en aU y, and in to bo en- Lave hap- md ; and udes the so that the whole which is Uinent to with ication of form at ptetnljor, Tsays:— - tly situated port, whose never oh- ■ jd ice. It , ■as only two he port and i 1 mile from us of attain- any other upper part rtford Basin : ^ ze over in j Tinl coramu- ety; and its coasts, pre- ,(1 ice either railroad ter- lily IS Cin my POSITION AND AREA OF CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 2()3 judgment) perfectly practicable for rail communica- tions. Comparing the two points nautically, Halifax is a good, capacious, fine, safe harbour ; so is White- haven, and nothing that I know inferior to Halifax. In clear weather, by night or by day, both are equally available, and equally safe and easy of approach ; so that the only circumstance still open to comparison is in the too common case, that at the time when entrance is sought into them respectively all the points and the ship herself may be enveloped in a dense fog, and possibly her own jib-boom end not visible, the most perplexing and appalling case in pre- cise navigation to seamen. In case of fog, the at- tainment of Halifax harbour requires 20 miles of pilotage navigation ; for Whitehaven, never more than three or four, and the last is also more surely beaconed." Major Robinson, the engineer entrusted with the survey of the Une, gives the prefer- ence to Halifax for a sea-coast terminus. The total distance from Halifex to Quebec for any line of railvyay will be about 635 miles, which at £7,000 per mile (a low esti- mate) will cost £4,445,000 — add one-tenth for contingencies, £444,500 r= £4,889,500, or in round numbers the proposed trunk line would cost about £5,000,000 sterling. Along the proposed line of railway from Halifax to Quebec there are millions of acres of good productive land, only waiting for the men necessary to cultivate them. The following synopsis shows approximately the quantities of ungranted land in the counties through which it is proposed t.i run the railway between Halifax and Quebec : — In Nova Scotia: Halifax County, 780,000 acres; in Colchester, 120,000; Cumberland, 180,000 = 1,080,000 acres. In New Brunswick: Westmoreland County 301,000; Kent, 640,000; Northumberland, 1,993,000; Gloucester, 704,000j Restigouchej 1,109,000 = 4,7 17,000 acres. In Canada : Bonaventiu«, 2,000,000 j Rimouski, 5,000,000; Kamouraska, 500,000,' L'Islet, 600,000; Bellechasse, 500,000 = 8,000,000. The grand total of acres in the three jwovinces amounts to 14,429,000, The land for the railway wt)uld reqtiire to be purchased in Nova Scotia for nearly its whole course, and in Canada for 110 miles. If a considerable portion of the ungranted land were given to the railway projectors it would facilitate the operation. CHAPTER IV. HISTORY, TOPOGKAPHY, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, AND PRODUCTIONS OF CAPE BRETON. This singular and valuable island, although included under the same government as Nova Scotia, is of sufficient importance to require a brief separate description. It lies between 45° 27' and 47° 5' N. lat. (including Ma- dame, Scatari, Bouladric, St. Paul's, and other minor islands), and between 59° 38' and 61° 50' W. long. ; its extreme length from N.E. to S.W. being about 100 miles, and its extreme breadth from S.E. to N.W. about 80 miles. It is separated from Nova Scotia by St. George's Bay, and the uan'ow channel, called the Gut of Canso or Canseau, which in one place is only a mile broad. It comprises an area of about 2,000,000 acres, exclusive of the surface covered by its lakes and rivers. In shape it is somewhat triangular, its south and south- eastern shore forming one side, its western shore (facing Nova Scotia and Prince Ed- ward Island) another, and its eastern shore the third j the two last terminating almost in a point at Cape Nortli, which, with Cape Ray,' in Newfoundland, commands the only entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, except by the circuitous route of tlie Straits of Belleisle. The distance between them is about 50 miles. History. — The island was discovered by Cabot, but what name he bestowed upon it does not appear. Verazani subsequently visited it, and called it Isle du Cap, which name was, in 1713, changed by the Frencli to Isle Royale. Who gave the island the name of Breton is very uncertain — most probably some Frenchmen of Brittany iu remembrance of home. It remained unin- habited until 1714, when a few French fishermen from Nova Scotia and Newfound- laud took possession ot its shores, selecting I' : 204 HISTORY OP CAPE BRETON UNDER THE FRENCH. the portioiiH most adapted for drying cod- fish or forming small gardens. In 1713, Louis XIV., who had hecn long contending with the united powers of Europe, anxious to detaeh queen Anne from that formidahlc alliance, offered to surrender purt of tliu Frencli possessions in America, and even- tually, hy the treaty of Utrecht, the French relinquished all excepting ('auadu, V-.tiw Breton and Prince Edward (then called .St. John's) Island. The position of Cape Breton with regard to the iiavigntiou of the St, Law- rence, ensured to the French free eoninumi- cation with (Canada, while its line harbours fitted it for the dcpfit of their trade with the West Indies, and these considerations, toge- ther with its valuable fisheries, induced its speedy colonization. On the S.E. coast of the island were laid the foundations of a town two miles and-a-half in circumference, which was called LouisVjurg in honour of the king of France. The fortifications were not com- menced until 1720. A governor and lieu- tenant-governor were appointed. The Indians of Nova Scotia were solicited to emigrate to Cape Breton, which many of them actually did. The Aeadians were also urged to join their countrymen, but as no equivalent was offered to them for the property which they must have necessarily abandoned, they pre- ferred remaining where they were, ftlcan- while the French government spared no expense upon the settlement ; the outlay on it is stated to have cxcetded thirty million livres, but this large sum must have been more than repaid by the lucrative fisheries, 1,800,000 quintals of cod-fish, and 3,000,000 quintals of scale -fish, bcingannuallv wportcd. The French were not long established in Cape Breton before they commenced instigating the Indians to hostilities against the EngHsh, and so successfully, that a large fishing post at Canso was twice taken by assault and pil- laged. The governor of Nova Scotia vainly appealed to the governor of Cape Breton, urging the atrocity of such outrages in a time of peace, and complaining of the encou- ragement given to the perpetrators by the people of Louisburg, i)ut he received only the unsatisfactory and evasive answer, " that the Indians were an independent people ; and that, if there were any French agents among them, they were the neutrals of Nova Scotia, and not subjects of Cape Breton." The Indians, encouraged by this tacit sup- port, became more and more aggressive ; and the colonists of Nova Scotia w^re compelled to have recourse to those of Massachusetts to assist them in quelling the aggressive spirit. Matters were in this position when war was declared between Fi-uncc and England, on the ;iOth March, 1 7 tt. The news oi this event did not reach Nova Scotia until some time after it had been conveyed to Cape Breton by a fast-sailing vessel, des- patched for tlu; purpose, but bearing instruc- tions to the governor iu)t to attempt the conquest of any post in Nova Scotia until further orders, as the lujblo fortifications of [jouisburg were yet unfinished, and known to ba insufiicicTitly garrisoned. But the temptation of taking th? English by surprise was not to be resisted. Du (iuesnel took u|)on himself the responsibility of disobeying oi'ih.Ts, and hastily (ittcd out a small arma- ment, which gained possession of Canso, and destroyed its defences, llie French then proceeded to lay siege to Annapolis, but were twice defeated, notwithstanding the dilapidated state of the fortifications, by the aid of a rcinforceinciit from New England, with whom the Indians of Passamaquoddy, Penobscot, Pigwogat, and sDme others, took part. Shirley, governor of New England, considering that the best way of cheeking the active proceedings of the enemy, would be to carry the war into his own territory, proposed to the council to atempt the re- duction of Ijouisburg. IJow wild and im- practicable this scheme mu.st have at first appeared, may be easily conjectured from the following description of the place, for which I am greatly indebted to the graphic account of Mr. ilalibnrton. Louisburg was two miles and-a-half in circumference, and entirely encompassed by a rampart of stone from 30 to 30 feet high, and a ditch 80 feet wide, with the exception of a space of 200 yards near the sea, which was enclosed by a dyke and a line of picquets. The water in this place was shallow, and numerous reefs rendered it inaccessible to shipping, while it received an additional protection from the side fire of the bastions, of which there were six, and eight batteries, containing embra- sures for 148 cannon, and 16 mortars, but of which only 45 were mounted. On an island at the entrance of the harbour was planted a battel y of 'W cannon, carrying 28-pound shot; and at tli<; bottom of the harbour was the grand or royal battery of 28 cannon, 42-pounders, and two 18-pound- crs. The entrance to the town was at the west gate over a drawbridge, near which w:i8 a circular battery, mounting 16 guns. IVO lea- ruc- tl\e mtil IS of lown the •prise took eying arma- ), and tlieu s, but \ ■ Lg the \ by the 1 I igland, ! 1 ^uoddy, fs, took iigland, Kecking r^ would srritory, the re- and im- at first ad from Uicc, for graphic hurg was , ncc, and of stone I h 80 feet ■e of 200 \ osed by a , ; water in ro\is reefs ^ g_ while it from the thcro were ; (, which prizes were conveyed for safety. In the November preceding the capture of Louisburg, the grand French fleet sailed from thence, con- sisting of three men-of-war, six West India ships, 31 other ships, nine brigantincs, five snows, and two schooners. The French West India fleets found a secure har- bour there, and tho supplies of fish and lumber were earned with convenience from thence to *-he sugar colonics ; besides whii'h, it must be remembered Cape Breton com- manded the entrance into the gulf of St. Lawrence, and consequently the navigation to and from the favourite colony of France. The existing state of Nova Scotia must be noted. An attempt had be^ i made by the French to recover the province ; the taking of Cape Breton frustrated the execution jf this plan, and gave the Eujj;lish an additional UEAT BRITAIN RELINQUISHES CAPE BRETON TO THE FREVCH. 207 ;ci- itaTicc inent, ion of drawn idy of indeed 8cd in irreuee justly lie man iffectcd, did it ce ; and isudtlic ' atablisU- ation for ecoming fcalth to between English I led it to 1 g was the i ice priva- i coast of ich prizes wi of tins conquest being; tmnsmitted to Knglimd, general I'eppcral and commodore Warren were preferred to the dignity of Ihiroiu'ts of Great Britain, and congnituliitory addresses were pi-csented to tite king, upon the success of his majesty's arms. Reinforcements of men, stores, and provisions liaving nrrivcul at Loui! capture by the English in 1758, by an eye-witness: — " It was built on a neck of land on the S.E. part of the island, and was nearly a league in circum- terence, with \vide aud regular streets, ii spacious quay; wharfs projecting into the S(!a, convenient for shipping; fortifications consisting of two bastions and t\\ > demi- bastions, three gates ; aud nei.r tin, principal fort and citadel, a handsome pniiiilc. The stone buildings for the use cf tin troops aud officers of the French goverr.inoil vrere con- structed with materials brouglit IVoin Europe. The port, about three miles in length, and upwards of a mile in its smallest breadth, with a carrening and wintering ground for ships, was protected by a battery level with the surface of the water, consisting of 36 24 pounders ; the harboui' was also defended by a Cavalier, with 12 embrasures, called by the name of Maurejjas. The royal battery, at the distance of a mile from the town, wliich it junimandcd, and also the bottom of the buy, contained 30 pieces of cannon, viz., twenty-eight 36-p(mnders, and ♦wo 18- pound('r>. The population of the to^ n, ex- chwive of the tnxips, was about 5,(KHj ; its administration was confided to a governor and supreme council ; there were courts of law and of admiralty; a general hospital for soldiers and sailors, served by brothers of the charitable fraternity, and the ' nuns of Louiiburg' superintended the education of young girls." The inhabitants of Louisburg and the other settlers in Cape Breton, of which the principal places were Poit Dauphin within the Bras d'Or, St. Anns, Spanish Buy (now Sydney), Port Toulouse (St. Peters), Arichat, Petit de Grit, and Rivic*, were chiefly engaged in ihe fisheries, which must have been carried on to a great extent. Mr. M'Hrcgor says, that the trade there employed near (MX) vessels, exclusive of boats, and between 27,0(K) and 28,000 seamen ; if this were tlie case, it is not sur- prising that the French ministry paid such attention to Cape Breton, and considered the fishery a uiore valuable source of wealth and power to France than even the mines of Mexico and Peru would have been. The parliament of Fhigland also, by the energetic appeals of Mr. Pitt, had been fully awakened to the mistake that had jireviously been made in relinquishing Louisburg, not only from its importance, which had been greatly undervalued, but because no course of policy which gave to the colonists a just cause of dissatisfaction witli the mother country, could be justifiable, however weighty the con- siderations which dictated ■'■. A large body of men were raised in Engl-ind in aid of the colonists. Halifax w.is fixed upon for the rendezvous of the British land and sea forces. Admiral llolborne arrived at Chebucto har- bour in the middle of July with a powerful s([uadron, and 5,000 British troops under the command of Viscount Howe, and was soon after joined by Lord Loudon with a corps of 6,()00 men from New York ; but the season was considered too far advanced for the enterprise, and it was resolved to defer it to the ensuing spring. Admiral llolborne sailed for Louisburg, with 15 ships of the line, 4 frigates, and a fire-ship, for the purpose of reconnoitring the enemy. On the 20th of August he appeared before the harbour, and saw the French admiral, La Motte, make tlic !ji;;iial to unmoor; but being greatly iiil'crior ia strength to the <££.' STEGT: op I :j''!8F.rRO in 17B8. t'lii-iiiy, lid dill not clionHc to riitk an cn- KiiKi'iiK'iit, mill tlirrctorn rctiiriKMl tu Ilali- ittH. Aliiiut tlio iiiiili'li! of September, having ri'i'«'ivril It rriiifonienieiit of four ships of the lini<, liii n)(iiin iippeared before Loiiisbourf^, mill luidi'iivoiirril to draw the enemy to a buttUi. (ill Motte, however, in his turn, wiiN tiwi |iriideti( to hiiziird an eiif^agement, thn litNK of wliieli iimnt have exposed all the I'Vi'lii'li I'lilonieii to the attaeks of the Eu);- liuli, Hi'fore the iirrivul of the rcinforce- liii'tlt, the llritiiih fleet ut Halifax cohsi.sted uf till! fullowiiiK Hhi]is : — NNnMufRlilp. 71HI M Name of Sliip. n 3 ao zo Nnwnrli . , . m Fi'rrit Sloup , . I'iO 10 Iii>(iii'llili> . , , 71NI 71 SuCft'HH . , . ir.o Tl (Iritltoii , . . rm IM I'lirt Mahon . . IM 22 'I'i'IiiIiIk , , , ititii 74 NinhtinKule . . l.W •HI NiiHliiiiiilicrliinil rm IW KtiiniiiKton . . IM '20 I'lllllulll , m) OS r.iphiiixliain 150 •20 lUitliiril . , . imi 01 Furnuco boom . 100 10 Ilri'iiril , , , . iVill IW Ditto . . 100 10 Nunnii , , , . INd III Vulture iilDop . 100 14 HiiriilurlniDl , , 41111 01 IIunttT . . . 100 14 Pclhmi'n , , , IIHI 114 H|HT(lwt'U . . 1)0 12 '1111.117, . . , KillH»fiill . . . IIHI 01 Ilnwku . . . 100 Vi '10(1 0(1 (lihriiltiir'H Prize 80 12 Wliiillc fleet and u powerful army, uiuler general Amherst. Thn whole anna- ment, consisting of 151 sail, and I l,(KK) men, took their departure from Nova Heotin on the 2Mth of May, and on tho iiid of June, 1758, anchored in the Day of Oabariis, about seven miltts to the westward of Loiiin- burg, whose garrison, commanded by (Ihe- valicr Drucor, consisted of !i,5(K) regular | troops, 80() militia, formed of the iiihabitantii, ! and who, towards the eiul of the siege, wero 1 reinforced by 350 (Canadians and Indimm. I The harbour was secured by six ships of the { line and five frigates, (the Prudent, ICiitro- i prcnant, each 74; tho Caprieieiix, ('elebro, | and Bicnfaisant, of (U guns; the Apollo, of 50; the Chevre, Biclic, Fidelo, Diana, and Echo, frigates,) three of which they sunk across the entrance, in order to nuider it inaccessible to the English shipping, tSix days elapsed before the troops could bo disembarked, on a(;count of tho heavy sui*f which broke with prodigious violeneo on the whole shore: but on tho seventh, tho agitation of the water having partly siiliNidcd, the troops were distributtui in three divisions, and ordered to efl'ect a landing. The right and centre, under the eominand of governor Lawrence and general Whitmore, reeoived instructions to make a show of Imiding, to distract the attention of the eiii'my, while the real attempt was made in another ipiartcr by general Wolfe. The Kreneh reserved their fire until the boats had nearly reiiehed the shore, when they opened a tremendous discharge of cannon and musketry, which, aided by the surf, overset and sunk nniny of the boats. The men, tMieimraged in nil their difficulties by the example, spirit, mid eon- duct of their gallant eomnianders, gained the beach at the Creek of (/'onnoran, and compelled the enemy to retire to tho town. As soon as the stores and artillery were landed, which was not elleeted without great difficulty. General Wolfe wiw dotaehed, with 2,0(X) men, to seize a post oeeiijiied by the enemy, at the Light-house Point, from which the ships in the harbour, and ibrtiticntiuns -ml iiiul mm re- Tlio lion, tivko liirW with rniy, innu- l,(H)0 tootiK , u(l of biiniH) Cite* ('H»ilivr titiiiiU) i«, were lul'mn*' « of the I I I'liitro- j \ >Uil>ro, I jtoHo, of nil, aii<< i>y Ntink (•iitltT it IK- ^^i" loultl lio > •ivvy ituff ; IciHH) on •iilh. the L\l)HitUHl, \ IdiviniotWi ! jl'ltc rinht I governor , received [miliiiH, to iny, wliilo wr nimrtrr roHcrvcd i ly rcnclii'd ^ .'('iiu'mloun ry, whir.h, k miviiy of 1 liii iill tlioir j , iiiul escous, it gradually becomes more compact and granular, and it may be seen in its last stage at that place, where it passes into old red sandstone. Greywacke and greyivacke-slate also occupy an extensive tract, between the Red Islands and St. Peters, stretching out towards the head of the Grand River in an easterly direc- tion. Associated with this formation, there are several beds of transition limestone, both in til? Isle of Madame and opposite the Red Islands ; at the latter place a deposit of shell limestone, apparently unstratified, may be seen almost in immediate contact with several vertical beds of a reddish-brown lime- stone, which is translucent on the edges. Secondary Class. — Proceeding geologically upwards, the next fornation is the old red sandstone, which reposes upon the greywacke, and is intimately connected with it. From the great entrance of the Bras d'Or Lake, it ranges in a south-eastern direction across the island of Bouladrie, passing to the south- ward of the town of Sydney, and underlying the cai'boniferous limestone, which forms the south-west boundary of the Sydney coal field. The remark made by Conybeare on the agricultural character of this rock, is strik- ingly verified in the preceding localities; for instance, in Lennox Passage, where the sandstone beds exclusively prevail, the soil is sandy and barren, aft'ording support only for mosses, ferns, and brushwood ; but where the sandstone alternates with argillaceous beds, the soil is, on the contrary, fertile and productive, as the luxuriant groves of hard- wood on the island of Bouladrie bear ample evidence. The carboniferous limestone which rests upon the old red sandstone, is a rock of the greatest importance, for it determines the boundaries) and extent of the coal fields which it surrounds, constituting the basin or trough in which the coal veins and strata associated with them, are deposited. The Eastern Coal District of Cape Breton toinineuccs on the northern liead oi Mirp" Bay on the cast coast and continues (ih rests :k of the lines the ds which •trough I 1 ssociated , Breton i liead 01 j ;outimK!s ' EXTENSIVE COAL-FIELDS OFF CAPE BllEION. 213 to tlie great entrance of the Bras d'Or Lake. It is in length 35 miles, and averages five miles in width, and deducting the har- bours, bays, and numerous indentations in the coast, comprises 120 square miles of land containing workable veins of coal. The carboniferous limestone which forms the base of the Sydney coal fiel'l, may be traced from Cape Dauphin, crossing the Island of Bou- ladrie in a continuous line to the town of Sydney, the course being about S.S.E., and dipping to the N.E. If a line be cbawn from Scatari Isle to Sydney, and thence to Cape Dauphin, it will form the S.W. boundary of the Sydney coal field ; the general dip of the veins being towards the N.E., we cannot therefore determine their boundary in that direction. Judging from the comparative inclination of the highest and lowest strata on the western shore of Spanish River, Avhere there is a cliff three miles in length, crossing the beds in the direction of their dip, we should suppose that the lower veins crop out in the sea 10 or 12 miles from the shore. The high cliffs which form an extended line of mineral precipices along tlie whole coast, exhibit very satisfactory and interest- ing sections of the strata, from the shale and grit beds overlying the limestone to the highest veins of coal. In these cliffs, II veins of bituminous coal of excellent quality, none of which are under three feet in thick- ness, have been observed. Richard Smith, Esq., detailed a sinjrtdar fact connected with these coal mines. In his evidence before Parliament somfj year* lico respecting acci- dents in mines, he said " When we first struck 'he coal at the depth of ahout 180 feet, it was higlly c'iinrf,'ed with water; the water flew out in all directions with considerable violence; it produced a kind of mineral fermentation immediately. The outburst of the coal crossed the large river which ^ isscd near the coal-jjit. Wc were not exactly awa>'e oi the precise outcrop, on account of a strong clay paste eight or ten yards thick. It is rather difficult t" "nd the outburst of coal, when clay paste is thickly spread o\er a country. At the river tne water boiled similarly to that of a stuani engine holler, with the same kuid of rapidity; so that on putting flame to it on a calm day, it would spread over the river, like what is commonly termed setting the Thames on fire ; it often reminded me of the saying. It is very common for the females, the workmen's wives and daughters, to go down to the river wita the washing they have to perform for their families. After digging a hole in the side of the river, about ten or twelve Indies deep, they would fill it with pebble Rtones, and then [uit a candle to it ; hy this ticaus they had plenty of boil- ing water without further trouble, or the expense of fuel. It would burn for weeks and months unii^ss put out. I mention this to show how higlily charged the coal was with gas. What I am now going to describe, may be worth a little attentior;. There was no extraordinary boiling of water, or rising of gas, before we cut the coal at the bottom of the pit, more than is usually discernible in a conunon pond of stagnant water, when a long stick is forced into the mud. As soon as the coal was struck at the depth of 180 feet, it appeared to throw the whole mine into a state of regular mineral fermentation. The gas roared as the miner struck the coal with his pick; it would often go off like the report of a pistol, and at times I have seen it burst pieces of coal off the solid wall, so that it could not be a very lightly charged mine under such circumstances. The noise which tlie gas and water made in issuing from the coal was like a hundred thousand snakes hissing at each other." Tlie total tliiekucss of the strata consti- tuting the coal measures on the W. side of the harbour of Lingftu amounts to 1,7-40 feet; that of the millstone grits and shale, probably 1,200. The thickness of the car- boniferous limestone has not yet been ascer- tained. Western Coal District. — This includes the coal field on the River Inhabitants, and those of Port Hood and Mabou. New Red Sandstone. — The last, but by no means the least important of the icgidar consolidated formations which occur in this island, is the new red sandstone, wliicli is undoubtedly the most extensive deposit wo have to notice. It commences beyond the outcrop of the old red sandstone, and is seen reposing in horizontal beds almost im- mediately upon the basset edges of the highly inclined strata of that rock in the great en- trance to the lakes, about 10 miles S.W. of Caiic Dauphin ; covering an extensive area, it would be impossible to describe its differ- ent characters ; in general, it is of a deep red colour, and very coarse description, con- taining immense beds of conglomerate. In a commercial point of view, the new red sandstone ranks next in importance to the coal fielils of the island, for it contains immen.se deposits of gypsum, of a very su- perior quality for agricultural purposes, and is becoming an article of considerable traffic with the United States, where its value is appreciated. It constitutes a clifl' several miles in extent, and in some places 30 feet in height. The gypsum in the lower part of the cliff is sufficiently compact for architec- tural purposes, and that near the surface appears well adapted for potters' moulds, stucco, flooring, &c. It is very conveniently situated for exportation, as vessels of great burthen m;iy :ip|)i()ach close to the cliff. It occurs abuiuiantly in various other places. Tiij numerous halt springs which have 214 SOIL, CLIMATE, AND ANIMAL KINGDOM, CAPE BRETON. their source iu the new red sandstone,, will be found well worth the attention of capital- ists. Placed so near the veins of coal, essen- tial in the manufacture of salt, and situated in the very heart of the best fisheries of North America, they promise fair to become, at a future day, a pi"oductive source of wealth to the proprietors, and of incalculable benefit to the fisheries. St. Paul's Island appears to be quite un- conaeeted in a geological sense with the strata constituting the northern part of Cape Breton, and would seem to have been orif^i- nally formed by a submarine volcano. Tiic basalt found on it is of a black colour, with a greenish shade, and apparently contains a large proportion of oxide of iron. This island rises like an immense cone from the bottom of the ocean, the sloping sides ))c- eoming nearly vertical at the surface of the Mater, and forming an abrupt clifi'. The depth of water is very great close to the shore, and, at only three iriles distance from tlie northern extremity, a line of 140 fathoms did not reach the bottom. Connected with * iic geology of the country are its metallic minerals; copper, iron. ;'.?id lead are found iu great variety, the two former in abun- dance. The Soil is light, on a sandstone rock, thickly covered with huge boulders of gran- ite, in many places alluvial, j)resenting ex- tensive tracts of land fit foi' the cultivation of any crops. On the N.W. coast, in the valleys and along the banks of the small rivers a deep rich soil prevails. There is a good deal of wet, mossy bog land, which, as the country becomes cleared and peoj)led, will yield excellent erons. Climate. — Cape Breton in some respects resembles the neighbouring peunisula, with perhaps more moisture from its insidar ])o- sition. The fog, which is swept along the shoves of Nova Scotia by the S.W. wind, and along the S.E. coast of Cape Breton, as far as Seatari, is then blown ott" to sea : it never extends far inland, being dissipated by the reflected heat. Tlie climate is ex- ceedingly healthy, and the water excellent — two things of paramount value to the settler. The seasons may be thus indicated ; — in June the blossoms of tlie indigenous shrubs a})pear ; apple trees are in lull bloom in the beginning of July, when .strawberries arc in perfection ; hay is made in July and August; in the latter months raspberries and oats ripen, iw do also currants and goosebei-ries, wheat in September, and apples and pliinis hang on the trees until the approach of win- ter in October and November. Animal Kingdom.— AW the usual domestic animals, besides the moose and cariboo ; the former are now comparatively scarce, owing to an indiscriminate massacre Avhich took place for the sake of the hides, soon after the English settled in the country. So great was the destruction of these fine animals that hundreds of carcases were left scat- tered along the shore from St. Ann's to Cape North, creating a stench so powerful as to be perceptible to vessels a considerable Jistance at sea. Remains of huge animals are found, which it would appear formerly ranged in the vicinity of the Bras d'Or. Enormous bones, resembling thigh bones, six feet in length, are reported to have been seen lying at the bottom of the lake. In the bed of the Wagamatcook, shortly after the settlement on that river, an extraordinary skull was discovered. One of tlie teeth which was taken to Sydn(!y, resembled, in general ap- pearance, the molares of the human jaw : its greatest measure was about eight inches ; but whether that length had been trans- versely or longitudinally situated in the jaw, could not be determined by those who had not seen the skull from which it hud been taken. The thickness from the root to the crown of the tooth was four inches, and the width across the crown about the same. There were ten processes upon the crown; five on either side. I give this statement on the authority of !Mr. Haliburton; but a Nova Scotia newspaper of the year \6'67, has the following more extraordinary state- ment : — " The tooth of an extini't species of animal has been recently found at Cape Breton, measuring 17 inches in length, eight inches round the thickest end, and weighing two pounds fifteen ounces ; though partially dcf^iycd, a hirge portion is in an excellent state of ^-reservation." The Indians have a story, that a huge animal once raised its head out of the water of the Middle Barrasoi of ' -pey Bay, neai- Cape North, and so ter- them, that it was long before any ■•':>ala venture thither again. Population. — The number of mouths is estimated at r)0,()()0, of whom tlii^ gre.iter part are emigrants from the Diglilands of Scotland and their de.-eendiints. They are chiefly employed in agriculture. The next most numerous race are the original Euro- pean coloiiist.^j or French Aeadians; an WTU- estic ; the wing took after great limals scat- a's to werful erable \ 1 which in the 1 hones, ^ length, r at the 'of the I tlement Lull was ; I ich was _ ; ,eral ap- \ ; jaw. its inches ; ; m trans- . the jaw, who had ^ lad been )0t to the ^ and the lie same, e crown; enient on hut a lar lrt37, ary state- ipecies of at Cape gth, eight weighing partially excellent it a huge the water Bay, neai- m, that it vc thither I mouths is lie gro.iter Lldands of They ave The next knal K-Jro- tdlans ; an THE COAL MINES AND "GENERAL MINING ASSOCIATION." 215 industrious people, employed in the fisheries, and in building small vessels. The re- maining colonists consist of English and Irish settlors, disbanded soldiers, and Ame- rican loyalists, who were located here after the Americtn war. The Mic Mac tribe, whose ancestors once tenanted the whole island, are nov reduced to about 300, many of whom have embraced the Roman Catholic religion, and are becoming e'vilized to some extent : they have lands assigned to them amounting to 10,000 acros. Products. — Coal, fish, gypsum, and timber. The rivers, creeks, and bays teem with every variety of the finny tribe. The extent of coal and gypsum has been already stated : timber of excellent quality grows in immense forests : live cattle, butter, cheese, potatoes, oats, &e., are becoming increased articles of export to Newfoundland. The coal trade is increasing, and forms a lucrative traffic for Cape Breton as wel' as for Nova Scotia. The following is a reuirn of the quantity of coal sold at the mines of the " General Mining Association" in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, now open and in com'se of working : — I ' Sold in the i'cnrs 181;). 1810. 1847. 1848. ITor the British rrovincos „ United States . . Ch. ■14,412 r)'J,9G,S Ch. •v.-), 1(5') •'J7,y70 fh. 48,710 01,477 Ch. .'54,762 70,017 Total . . 101,410 10J,7.'!') 1 10,187 130,779 It will be seen from the above, that the United States consume a larger quantity of coal from Nova Scotia and Cape Breton than the Britisli American provinces. By thr- exertions of T. B. Foord, Esq., the able London sccrotarv of the Alining Association, mtukets for their coal have been opened in all the seaports >/ the United States. The Pictoii coal, hiiing free from sulphur, is most used for manufacturing purposes, such as tlu; suK'lting of iron and for gas; the Cape Breton coal for domestic use ami for steam- vessels : both are rciiially applicable for the iatter purpose, though more so when burned togetlicr. The Liverpool and Halifax steamers biu'ii the Cape Uietoii eoal on their voyages from America to Enffland. In proportion to the progress of manufactures and popu- lation in the United States, the demand for coal from the British American provinces will increase, as Nova Scotia and Cape Breton are the only districts in North Ame- rica in which this valuable mineral has been found of superior quality. It has been eiToneously supposed that the " General Mining Association" have a monopoly of all the coal and iron in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. By the lease granted to the Duke of York, for 60 years, from 1825, of all the mines and minerals in Nova Scotia and Cope Breton, an exception was made oi such lands in the province as had been previously granted to individuals, over which the Crown had reser\'ed no mineral rights. Wherever, therefore, coal or iron can be fouud in Cape Breton or Nova Scotia thus situated, the proprietors, or their lessees, may work the mines ; and, indeed, a com- pany is now being formed in the province for this purpose, termed the " Londonderry Coal and Iron Company." The "General Mining Association," as sub-lessees of the late Duke of York, at a fixed rent of £3,000 per annum, have expended a million and- a-half of money in the province, from which great benefit must have accrued to the colony. The Royalty is two shillings per chaldron on every chaldron shipped above 26,000 chaldi'ons Newcastle measure. The Sydney and Bridgeport eoal mines are both in tlie island of Cape Breton. The Sydney mines arc situated on the north- west entrance of Sydney harbour, a harbour unsurpassed by any in British America, and accessible in all winds. This coal field is similar in quality to that of Newcastle. It is well suited for all the purposes of good fuel, especially for domestic use. It is highly bituminous, ignites readily, gives a strong lasting beat, and leaves but little a.sh. A railroad has been made from the pits to a point of tiie harbour, where vessels of any burthen can load with case, and are well sheltered from the prevailing winds. The establishment at the Sydney mines consists of about 150 persons, who occupy 50 houses, including the buildings required for the works. The Bridgeport mines are situated on the southern shore of Indian Bay, one mile and three quarters from the harbour where vessels load, and which is perfectly secure for ship- ping in the most boisterous weather. The southern head of Indian Bay, which is called Cape Table, bears by compass from Flint Island N.W. Sy W., distance eight miles and-a-half, and the northern head of the Bay bears from tiio light-house on F'lat Point at the entrance of Sydney harbour S.E., distance four miles Vessels may run safely into four fathoms .vater between the northern and southern heads. The coal from these mines is of excellent \ .' I 21(3 IMPORTANCE AND CAPABILITIES OF CAPE BRETON. quality, of the same description as the Sydney, and little inferior to it. A railroad has been laid from the pits to the shipping place, and along which the coal is carried and deposited at once in the holds of the vessels. This establishment employs about 100 persons: the houses and buildings exceed 20 in number, exclusive of wharfs, saw- pits, &c. The island is valuable in an agri- cultural as well as in a mineral point of view: In 1839, 'W, and '41, the quantity of land sold was 13,840 acres, at an average price of 2s. id. per acre. The indifference too long manifested con- cerning Cape Breton is gradually passin^- away, because its importance and capabilities arc becoming better understood. It is to be hoped that the improvement now taking place in the social condition of the people may steadily progress, and that the blessings of religion and education may be, ere long, extensively diffused among them. They well deserve the hearty co-operation and good- will of Britain, for their attachment tow.ards her, and the readiness they have evinced to defend their island against the enemies of the vast empire of which they form a small but valuable and valued part. CHAPTER V. SABLE ISLAND, THE MAGDALEN ISLANDS, AND BRION ISLAND. Sable Isla.nd, famous '"or the disastrous attempt at coionizatioi', made on its inhos- pitable shores by tiie IMarquis de la Roche in 1598, has since acquired a still more pain- ful notoriety from having been the scene and occasion of very many shipwrecks, from its lying in the direct track of vessels to and from Europe. It is about 85 miles distant from Cape Canso, and is included in tlic province of Nova Scotia. Its length is about 30 miles, its breadth varies greatly from its irregular outline, which is somewhat in the form of a bow. The W. end is in N. hit. 43°5G'42", W. long. 00° 71' 15"; the E. end in N. lat. 43° 59' 5", W. long. 59° 42'. A considerable sum of money is annually appropriated for the maintenance of an establishment on the island, consisting of a superintendent and assistants, with abundant supplies of every article likely to be required in ease of shipwreck. This establishment was formed in IHOI, and kept up at the expense of the province until 1827; but in the latter y >\i the British governriient un- dertook to luvnish a sum equal to that voted by the province, and the establishment has consequently been greatly enlarged, and its usefulness much increased. Its necessity is sufficiently attested by the melancholy fact, that 40 ves.^els wi'rc wrecked there in a few years, and in a single winter 200 people arc stated to have pcrislK'd on its coasts. The surface of the island (according to the state- ments furnished to Judge Haliburton) is un- dulating ; and the colour is also very similar to that of the sea, from which it is not easily distinguishable. Throughout its whole ex- tent there is not a single tree or shrub, and the only productions to be found upon it are a strong course grass, commoidy known by the naric of bent grass, or sea matweed, who- 1 r'oerry, and cranberry bushes. The grass IS indigenous, and grows near the shore, or in low places; and the cranberry biislies ai'e confined to the deep hollows, which the violence of the wind has formed by scooping out the sand, and driving it into the sea. With these exceptions, the soil, if such it can be called, consists of a naked sand, which is easily acted upon by the tempest, and drifts like snow. In some places it has formed conical hills, one of which is 100 feet high; and notwithstanding I its exposui'e, and the looseness of its texture, continues to increase in bulk. After a gale of wind, human skeletons are sometimes exposed to view, and timber and pieces of wrecks are disinterred, which have been buried fur years. Those who have not personally witnessed the effect of a storm upon this place, can form no adequate idea of its horrors. The rever- berating roar of the sea, when it strikes this attenuated line of sand, on a front of 30 milos, is truly appalling, and the vibration of ihe island under its mighty pressure lities I is tol iking ' eople I isings I long, ' jr well I good- wards I ced to lies of 1 i small n) is vin- y similar lot easily ?bole ex- jub, and ion it are nown by matweed, Vs. The [near the jranberry hollows, formed Iriving it Aons, the iists of a upon by In some i, one of [hstanding ;s texture, ;er a gale ' lometimes pieces of ^ave been I I witnessed 1 , can form ! Che rever- i Itrikcs this | lout of 30 vibration pressure SAULE 1SLANJ>, AXU LOSS OF Lll-E TKiillEON. 217 seems to indicate that it will separate eventu- ally, and be borne away into the ocean. The whole of the S. end is covered with timljer, which has either been drifted thitlier by the ciu-rent or torn from wrecks, and driven on shore by tlic violence of the sea. At each extremity there is an extensive and dan- gerous bar. The N.W. bar is 16 miles long, and from a mile to a mile and-a-half wide, on tlie whole of which the sea breaks in bad weather. Tliat on the N.E., which is of the same width as the other, extends 28 miles, and in a storm forms one continued line of breakers. The currents arc variable, one especially but little known to seamen, is stated to liave been a chief cause of the numerous disasters. There seems reason to believe, that the gulf stream at 42° 30', I running E.N.E. occasions the waters of the ' St. Lawrence, running b.S.W., to glide to i the westward. The strength of the current has never been noted, and three-fourths of the vessels lost are supposed to have thought themselves to the eastward of the island, wlien, in fact,, they were in the longitude of it. The island is said to be decreasing in size. The spot where the first superintcnd(Mit dwelt is now more than three miles in the sea, and two fathoms of water break u\nn\ I it. Although it must occasionally vary, I according to the violence of storms and the action of the waters, yet it is thought that 1 the effect of these is perccptil)le rather on ' the bars and shoals, thar on the island it- self, which is diminished by the wind faster ' than it is supplied by the ocean. I During the summer montlis, the S.W. I wind is so prevalent as to be almost a trade j wind, and is attended with the incouvcnicuee I to the party residiufi on it, and the danger I to strangers, of l)eing always accompanied by ' fog. In winter tho rigour of the climate is abated by the sea breeze ; and snow, though ', it sometimes falls in hca' y showers, is almost immediately blown otf into the water. j Although the island is a mere strip of sand, I it contains a ])ond 18 miles Iouj;, and nearly ! a mile wide, denominated Lake Wallace, ! between which and the sea, on the south i side, there is a narrow ridge or sea wall, of I about 200 yards. This lake, when the island 1 was first discovered, appeal's to ha\e had the I same form as at present ; but very many years afterwards a breach was made into it by the sea on the north side, aiul an inlet i formed, which converted it into a very com- I modious harbour for small coasters. A tcm- ! VOL I pest, similar to that which opened it, closed it again, and blockaded two small American shallops that had sought shelter within it. jVbout the centre of the north side of the lake is the house of the superintendent, which is one story in height, and <10 feet in length by 20 m breadth, near it stand the stores and a large barn. On an adjoining hill is a flag staff, made of the spritsail-yard of the French frigate I'Africane, wrecked in the year 1822, from which signals are made to vessels in distress. At each end of the lake is a hut, furnished with provisions, apparatus for striking fire, and directions for finding t1i(! house of the superintendent. Two smaU kitchen gardens are attaciied to the house, and one place has been found where cab- l)ag(>s can be reared. Rye, oats, and Indian corn, have bctn frequently sown, but they have never arrived at maturity. The stock of cattle consists of a few horses, some cows and oxen, hogs and poultry. But though the attempt to raise sheep has been often made with every possible care, it has hitherto failed, the climate or the food not being con- genial to them. Besides the barn adjoining tlie house, there is another at the east end of the lake, which is filled with hay made of the beach grass. The family of the super- intendent arc supplied with firewood by the drift timber found on the south end of the island, which is hauled to the lake and there formed into a raft, and towed to the dwelling- house, for which purpose they are 'furnished with two excellent whale boats. The water of the island is brackish and of yellowish colour, but is everywhere attainable in the hollows by digging from three to five feet. From an early period there apjicars to have been a herd of wild cattle u|)on it. The Portuguese wei'c the first who made this humane provision for the unfortunate, by landing some calves, which increased in a few years to such an extent, as to induce unprincipled men to hunt them for the sake of their hides and tallow, and in some in- stances to remove them alive. The disrep- utable nature of the employment, and the danger attending a protracted visit on the j island, were such, that they were not extcr- I minated for more than a century. After this it was again stocked, bat the cattle j shared the same fate as those which had , been previously placed there. At a snbsc- ipient period, a French clergyman, at Boston, i named IMr. le jMcreier. who called him- ' self an Englishman by naturalization, sent c;ittlc thither, and proposed to remove there ?18 CAn^LE, HORSES, AND SEALS ON SABLE ISLAND. himself. Amoiic tlio records of tlio pro- viucr, there in an application from him to lietJtenant-goveriior Armstrong, at Annapolis, for H grant of tlie island, but as ho declined to accept it on the terms proposed, of paving a quit rent to the king, it was finally with- held. A proclaniation, however, was issued by the governor, forbidding people to kill these animals, and they continued there for many years, but at what time they were destroyed ni -1 succeeded by the horses now upon it, is not known, nor is it ascertained wV' J. ' er the latter nre the descendants of some sent there by him, or of others which have escaped from wrecks. Since the forma- tion of the establishment, and the protection afforded them by it, they have greatly in- creased in number. They are small, but strong and active, and endure, with surprising hardihood, the inclemency of the weather in winter, without any other shelter than that afforded by the hillocks of sand. The south end of the island is their gen -ral resort, on account of the quantity of grass on its shores, and its remoteness from the house of the superintendent They have increased hej'ond their rajans of subsistence, and although many aiv killed every year to sup- ply fresh provisions for the crews of wrecks, who are detained there until an opportunity offers for conveying them to Nova Scotia, yet several of the aged and infirm are gene- rally found dead every spring. They are exceedingly wild, and it is no easy matter to approach within orun-shot of them. As it is desirable that no ineffectual efforts should be made to shoot them, and that they should not be unnecessarily maimed or wounded, great care is taken by the marksman to secrete himself in a suitable place, until an animal approaches within a convenient distance, when one shot usually suffices to kill him. The young male horses are selected for slaughter, and are easily distinguished from the aged by their superior condition, and by the size of the mane, which in the old horses is of extreme length, reaching nearly to their knees. The meat is said to be tender and by no means ' unpalatable. The island is also well stocked with English rabbits, which make an agreeable variety in the food of the residents. Th ; nature of the soil is so peculiarly adapted to the habits of these animals, that they have multiplied astonish- ingly, and are prevented from becoming too numerous only by a similar increase of rats, the progeny of those that have escaped from wrecks. Great numbers of the latter perish in the course of the winter, and during the rainy weather of the spring and autumn. Until within th*" last 15 years, there was a small herd of wild hogs, that hecaire ex- ceedingly fierce. The climate, however, which had always restricted their increase, finally overcame them altogether, for the whole perished during an imnPH.-i!ly severe winter. Since tint* time it hn« aot been tliriught advisable to r';iu «' this sp cies of stock, which, considering tne nature of the food that shipwreck;: .rus* sometimes have unfortunately furnished the.»i, must alwiys have been objects of horro tnd disgust. During the early jtart of the summer, gulls, ducks, divers, and ( tl.er wild fowl, lay an immense quantity ri egsrs on the sotithern point, and a p.. .'ty from ' 'O. house frequently sail up the lake and ■ U their boat with them. At the approach of w'uter these birds migrat^c to the eonttnent. Soon after the settlement of the Vew Eng- land colonics, this place became ." favourite resort of fishermen for the purpose of killing morse and seal. The former are nearly ex- terminated, but the latter stiil afford, during the season, a favourite employment; to the people of the superintendent. 'I'liey are of the species " Phoca Ursina ;" the male is sometimes eight feet long, and 800 pounds in weight ; b't the female is much smaller. The colour of the former is nearly black, and of the latter a dark speckled brown. Their hair is long and rough, and on the neck of the male is upright, .and a little longer that the rest. The fore legs are about two feet long, and the hinder ones twenty-two inches, the feet being divided by five toes, separated by a large web, and spreading to the extent of twelve inches. They are prodigiously strong, swimming at the rate of seven miles an hour, and are very tenacious of life, often surviving the most severe wounds. When on shore they live in families, each male being attended by several females, whom he guards with great jealousy. The young ones, at twenty days old, are nearly white, and their Hesh hears a resemblance to that of sucking pigs. The males, when old, are de- serted by the females. They then live apart from th(; rest, and become exceedingly fierce and quarrelsome. Their contests are often violent and sanguinary, and they inflict wounds on each other, not unlike the cuts of a sabre. At the termination of one of these battles, they throw themselves into the sea to wash away the blood. Although by no means so numerous as they were in for- so. as settle 180 : THE MAGDALEN ISLANDS— EXTENT AND POPULATION. 219 severe \ been nes of of the 9 have alwiys lisgust. . gulls, lay an I mthern i [juently 1 at with I r these j i cw Eng- ! ' 'avourite •f killing 3arly cs- 1, during it to the (jy are of male is pounds 1 smaller, (lack, and Their . ueck of iger that two feet vo inches, j separated , fhe extent I jdigiously 1 ■ven miles [life, often ). When 1 ;ach male | whom he ' mng ones, rhite, and M that of |ld, are de- , live apart ingly fierce I are often hey inftiet ^e the cuts of one of ,'68 into the [Ithough by ere in for- mer years, they still resort to the island in great numbers. They arrive on the north- east bar about the middle of January, for the purpose of whelping, and remain there for the space of a month ; when the puppies are about twenty-five days old, preparations are mod" for attacking them. Each person is armed witu a club five or six feet in length, made of oak or ash, the l)utt being transfixed \7ith a piece of steel, one end of which is shaped like a spike, and the other formed into a blade. As the seals seldom advance beyond the summit of the bar, so as to avail themselves of its declivity to facilitate their descent into the sea, the asaailunts approach with great caution and silence, and when within abou:: 200 yards, rush in between them and the water, and commeuoe the at- tack. Each man selects the largest as tlie object of his particular pursuit, and strikes him, c t the back ])art of the head, several blows ivith the steel spike. lie then applies the blade, in the same manner, to the wound thus inflicted, and repeats the blows till the animal is brought to the gi'ound. The strength and fierceness of this species of seal is so great, that this attempt is not unaccompanied with danger, and when they turn on their pursuer, they often ward off the blow with much dexterity, and have been known to seize the club in their mouth and escape. An ordinary hand-spike would be altogether unavraiing, and a musket equally so. When driven off this shoal, they land again on the north-west bar, where they arc pursued in the same manner, after which they disappear iiltogether until the ensuing year. The chief value of the seal consists in the oil. When the animal is killed, the fat is peelet' ntf with knives. The skin of a full-grown s'id is worth about five sliillings, and that of a whelp about one shilling and sixpence. Tlie proceeds of the sale, both of the pkins and the oil, go towards the funds of the estaljlishmeut. The MAdDALEN Islands an; situated 18 leagues N.W. of Cape Breton, the same distance nor'Jiward of Prince Edward Isle ; 36 leagues frc.ii the nearest point of New- foundland; "" leagues from the Fi-ench settlements ot ivliguelon and St. Pierre, and 180 leagues eastward of Quebec. With four exceptions they form an almost continuous chain of land, about 42 miles long, in a nearly N.E. and S.W. direction. Amherst Island, the most southerly of the chain, is nearly oval in form, having about five and-a-half and three and-a-half miles for its axis, with an isolated hill about 2f)0 feet nbove the level of the sea. Its harbour is the best in the chain, with a narrow but straight entrance over a soft ooze bar, fit for vessels drawing 11 to 12 feet water. Numerous spots of sand almost connect Amherst with Grindstone Island, whose diameter is about five miles. Cape Abright, the next in succession, is abo\it nine miles long and three broad. Then follows Entry and Coffin Islands. Tiie population consists of about 200 families, the greater part of whom are French Aeadians — fishermen. Lieutenant Baddely, who examined these islands, thinks them of igneous origin; — first, by reason of the form of the hills of which they are composed ; — secondly, on account of their porphyritie, amygdaloidal, vesicular, or lava-like structure; — thirdly, the geological appearances of the sandstone, clays, &c., shown in their displacement, in their redness, and even in their friability. In some places the soil is a rich black mould, as at St. Vincent's, and other volcanic islands in the West Indies. Bkion Island and the Bihu Islands, north of the Magdalen islands, huve been recently visited by the distinguished orni- thologist, Audobon, who thus describes the " Great Gaum. *• Rock," which derives its name from the numerous birds which breed there. ISIr. Audobon says: — " For several days I had observed numerous files proceeding northward, and marked their mode of flight while thus travelling. — At length, about ten o'clock, we discerned at a distance a white speck, which our pilot assured us was the celebrated rock of our wishes. After a while I could distinctly see its top from the deck, and thought that it was still covered with snow several feet deep. As we aj)proached it, I imagined that the atmosphere around was tilled with flakes, but on my turning to the pilot, wlio smiled at my simplicity, I was assured that no- thing was in sight but theuannets and tlieir island home. I rubbed my eyes, took up my glass, and saw that the strange dimness of the air was caused by the innumerable birds, whose white bodies and black- tipped j)inions produced a blended tint of light-grey. When we had advanced to within half a mile, this magnificent veil of floating Oannets was easily seen, now shooting upwards, as if intent on reaching the sky, then descending as if to join the feathered masses below, and again diverging toward either side and I sweeping over the surface of the ocean." T}()OK III.— NEW BRUNSWICK. CHAPTER I. GKOORAPIIICAL POSITION, BOUNDARIES, AREA, AND HISTORY. IK: l*08iT((>N AND Area. — New Brunswick forms an eastern section of the American continent, and is situated between 15^ 5' and 48° 20' N. lat., and between G3° SO' and (58° W. long. It is bounded on the N. by Clialcurs Bay, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence (which sepa- rates it from the district of Gaspe), and by the Ilistigonchc Iliver, which, in its whole course, from its source to its estuary in Cha- leurs Bay, divides the province from the county of Boua\enturc in Lower or Eastern Canada ;* on the S. and S.E. by the Bays of Fuudy, Chignecto, and the narrow penin- sula which prevents Nova Scotia from being entirely insulated ; the county of Westmore- land in New Brunswick being divided from that of Cumberland in Nova Scotia only by a boundary line drawn from Fort Cumber- land to Bay Vert in Northumberland Straits (an arm of the Gulf of St. Law- rence); on the E. by Northumberland Straits, which separates it from Prince Edward Is- land and the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and on the E. by the territories of the United States. The boundary line is so often a matter of discussion, that it may be accep- table to give verbatim the first article of the treaty of 1842 (commonly known as tlic Ashburton Treaty) by which it was finally airanjred. " IL is hereby agreed and declared, that the line of boundary shall be as Ibllows: — Beginning at the monument at the source of the River St. Croix, as dcsij^nated and agreed to by the commissioners under the Filth Article of the Treaty of 1794, between tlie governments of Great Britain and the United St.ites; thence north, following the exploring line run and marked by the Surveyors of the two Governments in the years 1817 and 181H, under the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent, to its intersection with the river St. John, and to tlie middle of the channel thereof; thence up the middle of the main chanml of the said river St. John to the mouth of the river * The boundary between Xew Brunswick and Canada is imperfectly defined. From the WLsltrn extremity of Chaleur Bay, the river Risti"ouche was adopted instend of " a line along the high lands which divide the rivers that empty theniscTves into St. Francisi Ihcnco tip tl •■ middle of the channel ol the said river St. Franci and of the lakes through which it flows, to th" oulUt of the Lake Pohenaga- mook; thence simlli westerly, in a straight line, to a point on the N.W. brunch of the rivi'r St. John, which point shall be ten miles distant from the main branch of the St. John, in a straight line and in the nearest diri'ction ; but if the said point shall be found to be less than seven miles from the nearest point of the summit or crest of the highlands that divide those rivers which empty themsdves into the river St. Lawrence from those which fall into the river St John, then the said point shall he made to recede down the said N.W. branch of the river St. Johh, to a point seven miles in a straight lin'i from the said summit or crest) thence in a straight line, in a course about S., eight degrees W., to a point where the parallel of latitude of 46' 2&' N., intersects the S.W. branch of the St. John's; thence southerly by the said branch, to the source thereof in the highlands at the Mitjarmette Portajje; thenje down along the said highlands which divide the waters which empty themselves into the river St. Law- rence, from those which fall into the Atla'itio Ocean, to the head of Hall's Stream; thence down the middle of said stream, till the line thus run inter- sects the old line of boundary surveyed and marked by Valentino and Collins previously to the year 1774 as the 4i5th degree of N. latitude, and which has been known and understood to be the line of actual division between the States of New York and Ver- mont on one side, and the British Province of Canada on the other; and from said point of intersection W. along the said dividing line, as heretofore known and understood, to the Iroquois, or St. Lawrence River." The province is in form an irregular square, contains about 26,000 square miles, and has a sea coast 500 miles in length. History. — The early history of NewBruns- wick is comprehended in that of Nova Scotia. Under the dominion of France it formed a portion of Acadia or New France, and its first settlements (of which the records are in general vague and unsatisfactory) ap- pear to have been almost entirely confined to military posts on the St. John, and those at Chignecto and Bay Verte. Dr. Gesner, the river St. Lawrence from those which fall Into the sea, to a point in the 45th degree of N. latitude." But the Ristigoucho River divides into two streams, which have different sources. [See Map of New Brunswick on Map of Eastern Canada.] ; Bri I peri j bank I greu ; gravi I bones , seen I preset j crossi ' Most Chal j iianc i coloni j Can ad j the pri Aft. ! bavin ! Wolfe I 11 to I boat a ; Thcb : nieii of arm nnd m of the pilot o I with al iwn ear lel ol rough ' :naga- I, to a Johu, main in the found oint of e tliose /er SU I i'cr St. I receda . John, ihe said i I coui-so ; icre the < ;cts the jutherly in the |;e down i waters Law- Ocean, the 1 inter- arlied 1774 liich has actual ind Vei- Canada ction W. own and River." i square, \ lud has 1 ! Bruns- Nova ranee it France, records ory) ap- confined ,d tViose Gesner, U into the latitude." streams, p of New EARLY IIISTOUY OF NEW BlU NSWICK. '22\ in liis recent and valuable " Ilistoiy ol New Brunswick," from which I li.ivc ()l)t:iincd much intercstinj; dctiiil, sujs, tiiat tiu; first attempt at the colouizatiuu nf the iioitiu^ru fart of New Brunswick was made in l(i3!). n 1(572 a number of Frencli families emi- grated to llie river .Miramichi, and soon after several mall settlements were formed ia different idai^es, and a fi)rtilied town called Petite Hoelt'llc. was commenced near the moutl •' Uistigouclie. At Beaubair's I'oiiil '(• i^land of that name (so called e governor or su|)eriu- tcndei ' , Monsieur Beaubairj, considt cuts were lormed, and Bonie trii >atiou still remain. The settlers emploveii uemselvcs chiefly in hunt- ing and fishinj.', and had an extensive export trade, which continued piospcrously until 175", when it Mas ji;rcatly interrupted by English cruisers on the coast. Tu the -ame year their crops failed, and the sueeecdinji; winter they were reduced to a state of starva- tion. To the horrors of famine were added those of a pestilence, sup[)osed to have been introduced by a vessel wrecked near the mouth of the Baie des Vents River, the re- mainsof which arc still to be seen. Two trans- ports were despatched from France with supplies, for the relief of these unhappy peo- ple, but the vessels were captured by the British fleet, and 800 of the inhabitants perished. From the wearin;^ away of the banks of the river at Beaubair's I'oint, where great numbers of them were buried, many graves have been opened; and in 1812 the bones of the early Frencli emigrants were seen protruding from the soil, where, at present, a highway descends to the ferry crossing the N.\V. branch of the river. Most of the habitans who survived fled to Chaleur Bay, St. John's Island, and Mem- uaneook on the Peticodiac. Only a few colonists remained at French Fort Cove, Canadian Point, and Nequaak, which were the principal rallying poii;ts for the savages. After the conquest of Qui^bec, a vessel, having on botird the remains of General Wolfe, was driven, by stress of weather, nto Miramichi river. The captain sent a boat and .six men on shore to procure water. The boat landed at Henderson's Cove : the men were suddenly surrounded by a party of armed Indians and soldiers from the fort, and murdered upon the spot. The captain of the vessel, on being informed by the pilot of this barbarous massacre, retaliated with almost equal brutality. After «ileucing ^ent to attempt ; I being pur- ;i' took refuge C' wn of Petite the battery at the Cove, he destroyed the settlement at Canadian Point, and, it is said, ho there put to death the miserable survivors of tin; famine and the pestilence. In proceeding to sea he landed at Ncquaak, and set fire to a large church, from which circimistanec the settlement has been ever since called Burnt Churr'> In 17()0a French f(v the recovery of Ca. 'id;,;, n sued by the Brit' U ■ ..i-.i! in the Ristigouc. , ac H:,- Rochelle, where there w re two batteries. C^aptain Byron, the British commander, having with ditfieulty worked his ships up the river, forced the enemy to an engage- ment, and succeeded in capturing and de- stroying the w bole fleet. He then demolished tiie town, and razed the fortitications to the ground. The remains of two French vessels may .still be seen at low-water near Alission Point, where several pieces of cannon are partially buried in the sand. At the site ot Petite Rochelle, muskets, swords, bomb- siudls, with a variety of other warlike imtru- ments, have been found; and among the ruins of the town, china, silver forks and spoons, and other articles of luxury, have been discovered, evidencing the advanced state of civilization of its former inhabitants. About 1761, settlers from Great Britain and the adjoining colonies began to flow into the province. In 176 1, the first British settler, a !Mr. Davidson, emigrated from the north of Scotland to Miramichi, and in the following year oljtaincd from the British government a grant of 100,000 acres, situ- ated on the south-west branch of the Mira- michi. He was afterwards joined by a ^Ir. Cort, from Aberdeen, and they si i established a valuable trade. The fishery annually yielded them from 1,-100 to 1,800 tierces of salmon, and they lived upon good terms with the Indians until the commence- ment of the American revolution, when tho savages declared themselves in favour of the revolutionists, plundered their stores, and decreed the death of every individual be- longing to the infant settlement. The arrival of the Viper sloop-of-war prevented the contemplated massacre. Thirty of the In- dians attempted to capture the vessel, part of whom perished in the attempt, and the remainder were taken prisoners and sent to Halifax. On a subsequent occasion the colony was saved from destruction by the exertions of a Roman Catholic priest, named Cassanette. The first English settlement on IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ■so "*^ 3.2 ■" Bits 2.5 1.1 l-^l 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 IJ4 < 6" ». i? /i v^ A vV# ? Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ 222 FIRST BRITISH SETTLEMENTS IN NEW BRUNSWICK. the St. John was formed by some families from Massachusetts, who, having obtained from government the grant of a township on that river, immediately established them- selves in the district now known as the County of Sunbury. At different times during the war they were joined by Ame- rican loyalists and refugees. The first com- mission of the peace for this settlement is dated 11th of August, 1766, and the Courts of Common Pleas were held in Sunbury until 1783, when Fredericton was made the seat of government. The population at this period amounted to 800 souls. In 1783 several thousands of disbanded troops were removed from New England to New Brunswick, and a number of Acadians who had established themselves at Frede- ricton were removed to Madawaska to make room for them. Even here the Acadians have not escaped the vicissitudes of fortune ; for according to the boundary line laid down in 1842, one part of Madawaska district is assigned to Great Britain, and the other to the United States, and the divisional line has consequently placed the same people under two different governments. In 1784, New Brunswick was separated &om Nova Scotia, and made a distinct pro- vince. General Carleton was appointed governor, and by his judicious — his paternal administration — for nearly 20 years, he raised the country from almost the state of a wilderness to comparative civilization. In the year 1809, the duty on Baltic timber was advanced to £2 14«. 8d. per load, while that from the colonies was left free. The exportation from New Brunswick thereby received a great stimulus, and rapidly in- creased until 1825, when, from speculative over-trading, it experienced a severe check, from which, however, it recovered, and be- came as thriving as before. It has recently been again depressed. In 1826, the east coast of Miramichi was visited by an awful conflagration, of which the following description, by an eye-witness (Mr. Cooney), may probably be acceptable to those who, never having been out of Europe, have probably but little idea of the fury and rapidity with which fires rage after a con- tinuation of hot seasons in North America and New Holland, when the dry underwood and fallen leaves, in addition to the resinous quality of the timber, afford combustible matenals in the greatest abundance : — " The Buminer of 1825 was unusually warm in both hemupheres, particularly in America, where its effects were fatally visible, in the prevalence of epidemicilk disorders. During July and August, extensive fires raged in different parts of Nova Scotia, especially in the eastern division of the Peninsula. The protracted drought of the summer, acting upon the aridity of ' the forests, had rendered them more than naturally i combustible ; and this facilitating both the dispersion ! and the progress of the fires uiat appeared in the early part of the season, produced an unusual warmth. On the 6th October, the fire was evidently approaching Newcastle; at different intervals fitful blazes and flashes were observed to issue from diff rent parts of the woods, particularly up the N.W., at the rear of Newcastle, m the vicinity of Douglastown and Moor- fields, and along the banks of the Bartibog. Manv persons heard the crackling of falling trees and shri- veled branches, while a hoarse rumbling noise, not dissimilar to the roaring of distant thunder, and divided by pauses, tike the intermittent discharges of artillery, was distinct and audible. Un the 7th of October the heat increased to such a degree, and became so very oppressive, that many complained of its enervating effects. About 12 o'clock a pale sickly mist, lightly tinged with purple, emerged from the forest, and settled over it. " This cloud soon retreated before a large dark one, which occupying its place, w:rapt the firmament in a pall of vapour, and the heat became tormentingly sultry. There was not a breath of air — an irresistitivc lassitude seized the people ; and a stupifying dulness seemed to pervade every place but the woods, which trembled, and rustled, and shook with an iacessant and thrilling noise of explosions rapidly following each other, and mingling their reports with a dis- cordant variety of loud and boisterous sounds. At this time the whole country appeared to be encircled by a fiery zone, which gradually contracting its circle by the devastation it made, tievned as if it would not converge into a point while anything remained to bo destroyed. A little after four o'clock an immense pillar of smoke rose in a vertical direction, at some distance N.W. of Newcastle, and the sky was abso- lutely blackened by this huge cloud ; but a light northerly breeze springing up, it gradually distended, and then dissipated into a varietv of shapeless mists. About an hour after, or probably at half-past five, innumerable large spires of smoke, issuing from different parts of the woods, and illuminated by flames, that seemed to pierce them, mounted to the sky. " The river, tortured into violence by the hurricane, foamed with rage, and flung its boiling spray upon the land. The thunder pealed along the vault ot heaven : the lightning appeared to rend the fir- •npmcnt. For o moment all was still, a deep and awful silence reigfned over everything. AU nature appeared to be hushed, when suddenly a lengthened and sullen roar came booming through the forest, driving a thousand massive and devouring flames before it. Then Newcastle, and Douglastown, and the whole northern side of the river, extending from Bartibog to the Naashwaak, a distance of more than 100 miles in length, became enveloped in an immense sheet of flame, that spread over nearly 6,000 square miles! That the stranger may form a faint idea of desolation and misery which no pen can describe, he must picture to liimself a large and rapid river, thickly settled for 100 miles or more, witn four thriving towns, two on each side of it, and then reflect that these towns and settlements were all composed of wooden houses, stores, stables, and bams; that these ' epidemicii. tensive fire* ispecialfy in le protracted le aridity of i m naturally 1 le dispersion ' :ared in the sual vrarmtb. approaching 1 blazes and ■rent parts of t the rear of m and Moof- tibog. Many , lees and shn- ing noise, not thunder, and i i discharges of )n the 7th of a degree, and complained of k a pale sickly rged from the large dark one, irmament in ^a e tormentingiy —an irresistibki! ipifying dulness le woods, which ih an incessant , jpidly foUowing I orta with a dis- ous sounds. At 1 to be encircled j tractmg its circle { ks if it would not i t remained to bo Ick an immense ruction, at some i 16 sky was abso- id; but a light dually distended, f shapeless mists, at half-past five, te, issuing from illuminated by em, mounted to by the hurricant, rtiling spray upon ong the vault ot to rend the fir- still, a deep and ning. AU nature enly a lengthened irough the forest, devouring flames )ouglastown, and f, extending from , ince of more than _)ed in an immense 'arly 6,000 square " 1 a faint idea of n can describe, he rapid river, thickly vith four thrivmg then reflect that tJl composed ot bams; that these liarni and stnbles were filled with crops— and that the arrival of the fall importations had stocked the warehouses and stores with spirits, powder, and a variety of combustible articles, as well as with the necessary supplies for the approaching winter. He must then remember that tne cultivated, or settled part of the river, was but a long narrow stripe, abo\it a auarter of a mile wide, lying between the river and almost interminable forests, stretching along the very edj^ of its precincts, and all round it Let Mm then animate the picture by scattering countless tribes of wild animals; hundrvith as much rapidity as any city in North America. But little more than 60 year ""o, the site of St. John was a rocky head overed with cedar thickets. By the pa' udustry of American loy- alists, the founuation of its present prosperity was established. The streets are regularly, and on the whole well built. The numerous public buildings of stone, brick, and wood are many of them remarkable for their excel- lent structure. In 1837, a destructive fire consumed 115 houses and stores. The loss was estimated at £250,000. Several severe fires have occurred since, and whole streets, including the north and soutli market wharfs, and a new market-house, have been laid in ruins. The extreme point of the peninsula is occupied by two batteries, military stores, and barracks. Steam-boats ply night and day between St. John's and Fredericton. Carlton, a town on the W. side of the harbour, is included in the city, and contains several good streets. The harbour of St. John is safe, commodious, and open at all seasons of the year. At its mouth lies Par. tridge Island, on which is a battery, light- house, and hospital for the reception of tlio to the Liu this eA, and 8, good ! raised, aade in nt sam- 146, and ey were 3 of 800 N. lat., )eninsula mouth of and from porium of : of New )eeu em- several of in winter ivislon of e harbour, pal wharfs, ,ed farther Uned with irds, which I down the ty, divided mayor, re- hc cou- y, John's nas . rapidity as fthttlemore John was a [ar thickets. lericau loy- it prosperity re regularly, ^e numerous ^ and wood their excel- tructive fire 8. The loss jveral severe [hole streets, ; krket wharfs, i [been laid in he peninsula litary stores, [y night and ■dericton. ! , side of the |aud contains fbour of St. I open at all ,uth lies Par- ittery, light- jption of tbo COUNTIES OP CHAllLOTTE AND WESTMORELAND. 226 uck emigrants and sailora on thoir enterinir the quarantine station. Between tho island and the mainland, is a long narrow bar, dry at low water, and on the bar ii fixed a beacon crowned by an excellent light. The fishery here is very productive. The population of the city of St. John in 1840, was 20,710, but the suburb of Portland would add at least 5,000 to that number. Portland continues to iuoreaw, and Mr. Perley, in his official returns, dated January, 1847, estimates the city of St. John with the suburb of Portland, at 30,000, and the rest of the county at 8,000 souls, in all 38,000 souls — about equal to one-fifth of the whole population of the province. The river St. John, before its entrance into tho harbour, passes through a fissure in the solid rock, which exhibits every appearance of having been occasioned by some convulsion of nature. The volume of water collected in a course of many hundred miles being com- pelled to pass through a channel only 150 yards wide, rushes downwards with extreme velocity, forming the falls, which arc simply a sluice on a grand scale. Dr. Uesnor nays, " that the ordinary tides of the hHrbour rise below the falls 26 feet j above tho falls, their common elevation is only aLout 18 inches ; therefore, the height of the fall outwards is 24 feet 6 inches. But tho entrance of the river at the gorge is too narrow to admit the sea on the flood-tide to flow in freely, and therefore there is the singulixr occur- rence of a fall inwards at high water, and a fall outwards at low water. Tho time for vessels to pass through tho narrow opening or fall, is fixed at three quarters of an ho\ir at each ebb and flood, or when tho sea and river are both at the same level." Mus- quash Harboiu-, to the S.W. of St. John's, is a safe and beautiful haven, two miles long, and half a mile wide. Charlotte County occupies the S.W. angle of New Brunswick, and is sepnrntod IVom the United States by the River St. Croix. It contains ten parishes ; viz., St. Andrew's, St. Stephen's, St. David's, St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. James's, Pennficld, Grand Manan, West Isles, and Campo Bcllo. It is a hil'y country, with ridges of granite rooks along its northern boundary ; but it possesses much good land, especially in the volleys of the nunicrous streams by which it is inter- sected. The principal parish, St. Andrew's, contains the shire to^vn of tho same name, which is conveniently situated for commerce, on a narrow slip of low land at the N.E. VOL. I. L extremity of Passamaquoddy Bay. St. Ste- § hen's, at the head of the navigation of the t. Croix, is a thriving town. The parish of St. George is intersected by the Maga- guadavic, and has an excellent harbour called L'Etang. Pennfield parish is chiefly settled by Quakers. Grand Mauan Island is situ- ated 12 miles S. of the main land of the United States. It is 25 miles long, with p mean breadth of five, having a number of islets on its N.E. side. A great part of th«. island is cultivated: the herring fishery is extensively prosecuted on its shores; and, in consequence of its important situation, commanding the entrance to the Bay of Pimdy, is extremely valuable, being so far fortified 1/ nature, that a little assistance from art would render it invulnerable. The perpendicular cliffs are, in some places, 600 feet high. Campo Bello Island is, in length, fh)m N. to S., eight miles, with an average breadth of two. It is, for the most part, in a state of cultivation. The harbour Dc Lute, on the west side, near the north ex- tremity, is large and safe, with a spacious entrance. Doer Island is twelve miles long and three miles broad. It is partially cultivated, and 8\irroundcd by a multitude of small islets. Tho spacious and beautiful inlet of Passama- quoddy Bay, which separates the sea-coast of New Brunswick from the United States territory of Elaine, is studded with nume- rous islets, some of which are richly wooded. This noble bay has the advantage of being free from ice to a greater extent inland than any other harbour north of New York. The fisheries in this county, in the vicinity of West Isles, Campo Bello, and Grand Manan, are of much importance. The County of Westmoreland, until 1845, included the district south and west of the river Pcticodiac, now erected into the county of Albert. It ia eminently an agricultural and grazing county, containing extensive dyked marshes, a few small lakes, and occa- sional peat bogs and swamps. The coast is deeply indented by Shepody Bay and Cum- berland Basin ; the former receives the Pcti- codiac, a fine stream, navigable for vessels of 100 tons burden 33 miles. It was called by the French, Petit Coude, (Little Elbow,) firom its making, 26 miles from its mouth, a sudden turn at a right angle called the Bend, where the tide flows in and ebbs off in six hours. Tlie east side of the Pcti- codiac, for 12 milev^ above its entrance, is occupied by Mic Mac Indians. Dorchester, 3g ^M COUNTIES or ALBERT, KINGS AND QUEEN'S. I i the shire town, is well built and thickly populated. A pretty village in its vicinity is called after a Monsieur Believaux, who oied at the advanced age of 110 years. Sackville parish borders upon Cumber- land Basin. The great Tantamarre marsh is situated on both sides of the river of that name, and is one of the largest collec- tions of fertile sea alluvium in British Ame- rica, being twelve miles long, and four miles wide. The overflowng of the sea is pre- vented by dykes thrown up on the margin of the river and across the creeks. West- moreland extends from the boundary be- tween Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and across the peninsula. A swelling ridge of land, called Point de Bute, separates a small stream called the Aulac, from the Missiguash, and forms the boundary line between the provinces. Fort Beau Sejour, now called Fort Cumberland, was erected on the south-western termination of the ridge, where it commands the entrance of both streams. On it stands a church and chapel, surrounded by fine farms and rich marshes. Bay Vcrte (so called from the salt-water grass that grows in the mud and floats on the surface,) is a narrow and shallow estuary, especially at its inner extremity. Shediac parish has a good harbour, near the mouth of which are two beautiful islands. The turn of the tide in the Bay of Fundy ex- hibits that peculiar phenomenon termed the Bore, which takes place on a much grander scale at the mouths of the Ganges, Indus, and Mississippi. The waters seem to accu- mulate without advancing, until the waves attain a considerable perpendicular height, and then dash forword with extreme velo- city and iiTcsistible force, the loud roar striking terror into the animals on the shore, who fly towards the highlands trembling with alarm. Albert County. — From its recent organ- ization this county requires but a brief notice. It contains 433,560 acres, of which 233,700 are granted and located. Its popu- lation is estimated at 5,660. Its productions are similar to those of Westmoreland. The parish of Hopewell stretches along the shore of Chiguecto Bay. Shepody Mountain (as it is called) is the termination of a ridge of high land, extending along the boundary of the St. John from the S.W. The small river of that name ends in a lake, between which and the sea an opening has been made, to allow the tide to flow in and cover a large boggy tract ^vith alluvium. King's County has a mountainous aspect, being thickly interspersed by hills, steep declivities, and narrow ravines walled in by rocks. The western portion, with the exception of the flourishing parish of Green- wich, is almost in a wilderness state. King- ston, the shire town, is situated on a penin- sula, between the Kenebeeasis Bay (a branch of the St. John) and Belle Isle Bay, and communicates with the main-land, only in a northern direction, where it adjoins the parish of Sussex ; improvements are making rapid progress, particularly in the latter named place, which, fi'om a forlorn and dreary desert, has been rapidly transformed into a lovely and luxuriant valley, smiling with abundant harvests and rich pastures, whilst roads, bridges, and public works attest the enterprising spirit of its inhabitants. The Kenebeeasis river is navigable 20 miles for vessels of any bui-tben, 30 miles for vesssels drawing seven feet water, and 30 more for flat-bottomed boats. It has four small branches, the Mill Stream, Smith's Creek, Salmon River, and Trout Creek, which afibrd facilities for transporting timber, and sites for flour and saw-mills. The parish of Westfield has numerous lakes and streams, and abounds with fine timber. The Nerepis, after passing for 12 miles througli marsh and intervale land, falls into the St. John, which then bends abruptly to the N.E., and runs in a nearly direct line for 16 miles. This straight section of the river is called the Long Reach, and at its head are valuable quarries of excellent granite, whieti ure now being largely worked. Queen's County lies on both sides of the St. John, and is intersected by two important tributaries of that river, namely, the Washa- damoak, the lower part of which may be called a lake from the stillness of its waters, and the Salmon, which empties itself into Grand Lake. This lake is a beautiful sheet of water, 30 miles long, and from 3 to 9 broad, connected with the St. John by a narrow and deep channel called the Gemsec (so often mentioned in the early histories of the province), and with French and Magua- pit Lakes by channels opened through tlie alluvium forming the intervales. All these lakes and channels are navigable. Gagetown (the shire town) is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Gemsec, and is the shipping place for the produce of the district. Long Musquash and other islands in this part of the St. John, arc planted after the subsidence of the spring freshets, and produce fine crops. COUNTIES OF SUNBURY, YORK, AND CARLETON. 287 aspect, steep ' led in ith the Green- King- j penin- 1 branch a,y, and | only in )in9 the making e latter orn and isformed , smiling pastures, rks attest labitants. : 20 miles miles for •, and 30 ; has four ,, Smith's eek, which mber, and ; parish of d streams, le Nerepis, ucrh marsh ■ St. John, N.E., and 16 miles, j ,>r is called ire valuable cii are now i ides of the o important the Washa- ich may be its waters, itself into j mtiful sheet rom 3 to 9 i John by a the Gemsec histories of and Magua- through the All these Gagetowu ;uated at the the shipping itrict. Long [lis part of the [e subsidence ,ce fine crops. The parish of Wickham has increasd greatly within the last few years. The western portion of the country is almost wholly un- cultivated. The parish ' f Brunswick eon- tains a few settlers at the noi'th-eastern extremity, but almost its entire surface is shaded by a trackless forest ; yet this part, and, indeed, tlie whole county, has great agricultural capabilities, besides possessing eoal fields of considerable extent, and abun- dance of fine timber, of which it has fur- nished to the port of St. John large supplies for many years. Sunbury County lies between Queen's and York, and like them crosses the St. John. The parishes of Maugerville and Sheffield Qi'e considered the most productive tracts in the province, in consequence of their being annually overflowed. It is impossible to conceive a scene more luxuriant than they exhibit in the season of harvest ; for upwards of twenty miles below Fredericton there is scarcely uu unimproved spot on the banks j of the St. John, through which run a chain of islets as fertile as the mainland. Bur- : ton and Lincoln parishes are situated on i highlands, with valuable slips of intervale, j the whole of which are in a high state of I cultivation. At Maugei-ville tlij first British I settlement in New Brunswick was planted, i and another very early one was formed at ; the mouth of the Oromucto, where there is now a large village, formerly a resort of the Indians, whose graves are sometimes exposed by the operations of the plough. Ship- building, to some extent, is carried on here. On the north and south branches of the Oromucto are many thriving settlements.. ! York County occupies the higher banks of the St. John for about 50 miles, and contains Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, which is situated in the parish of the same name, in 45° 57' N. lat., 66° 45' W. long. ; 85 miles distant from the sea coast at St. John's. It was formerly called St. Ann's, and was made the seat of government by Sir Guy Cai-leton, in 1785. The town stands on a plain fronting the river (here three quarters of a mile wide), which, curving boldly, encloses it on two sides; on the S. a range of hills two miles long and half a mile wide surround it ; and from tlie oppo- site coast, the Nashwaak rolls its l)road, and I sometimes rapid, stream into the St. John, ' wliich to this point is navigable from the sea upwards for vessels of 50 tons burthen. IVedcricton is laid out in blocks of a quar- I ter of an acre square, of wliich there are 18 : the streets are disposed rectangularly, some of them being a mile long, and, for the most part, continuously built on with woodeu houses. The public edifices are the Province Hall (where the provincial assembly and courts of justice assemble), the court-house, barracks, government-house, library, church, chapels, aud kirk, and many other structures. The population of the parish of Fredericton in 1810, was 4,002 souls ; but the city of Fredericton alone, in 1 817, was supposed, by Mr. Perley, to contain 6,000 souls. Above Fredericton, are the parishes of Kingsclear on the S. and St. Mary on the N., botli settled bj' disbanded soldiers. Queensbury parish was laid out originally for the Queen's Rangers, and has prospered well ; but Prince William, settled by the King's American Dragoons, has not been equally thriving, the laud being much less favourable. An average crop of oats in this county, of the best quality, is said to be 30 bushels to tlie acre; but in 1846, there were fields in and near Fredericton, which yielded 60 bushels to the acre. The land (com- prising 550,000 acres), purchased from the crown by the New Bi-unswick and Nova Scotia Land Company, is chiefly situated between the St. John aud the S.W. branch of the Miramichi. The company have spent large sums in making roads, clearing land,, and building houses, mills, and bridges. The greater part of their tract is of excellent quality, much of it consisting of upland intervale, and they offer liberal encourage- ment to emigrants. The town of Stanley, formed by this company, is, according to Dr. Gesner, yearly increasing in population and prosperity. It is situated on the borders of the Naashwaak, 3p miles above its confluence with the St. John. Douglas parish on the N. side of the St. John, is intersected by the Keswiek River. Carlton County includes all the upper part of the St. John, so far as it flows tlirough British territory. A portion of it containing, by estimate, 3,700,000 acres, has been claimed by the province of Canada, since the settlement of the disputed boundary with the United States. The first parishes, after leaving York, are Woodstock on the W., aud Northampton on the E., both granted to proxiucial regiments disbanded in 1815. The lauds of these settlements are well cultivated and exceedingly produc- tive. At the north-western extremity of Woodstock, tlie Alcduxnikcag (abroad, rapid stream, with almost innumerable branches) :i28 GRAND FALLS OP THE ST. JOHN empties itself into the St. John ; both banks oi' which, from Woodstock to the mouth of the Tobique, 50 miles above, are more or less in progress of cultivation. Wakefield parish contains, and is sur- H'unded by flourishing farms. The thriving village of the same name, 12 miles from Woodstock, is very picturesquely situated. The extensive parish of Kent comprises the remaining and least settled part of the course of the St. John. The Presqu'ile is a con- siderable stream; but from its numerous rapids, scarcely navigable, even for canoes. One of its branches bends along the base of Mars Hill, and receives the brooks descend- ing from the side of the mountain. Mars Hil) is about five miles and-a-half west of the river St. John, and one hundred Irom Fred- ericton ; and has a degree of interest attached to it, from the circumstance of its being the point fixed on by the British commissioners as the commencement of the range of high- lands forming the boundary of the United States. The mountain is about three miles in length, with a base of upwards of four miles, an elevation of two thousand feet above the sea, and one thousand two hun- dred above the source of the St. Croix; near the summit it is almost perpendicular. As it is the highest point in its vicinity, the prospect commands a great extent of terri- tory : immediately beneath stretch the vast forests, whose undulations, clothed with the funereal green of the fir, and the bril- liant verdure of the birch, resemble stupen- dous waves, the more elevated spots rising above the others, like towers on the ocean. The mountain chain, of which Mars Hill is only an insulated point, pursues iis course to the northward, leaving within its range Bear Mountain and Moose Mountain. Blue Mountain, near the Tobique, is the next eminence of any considerable altitude in this portion of the Alleghany chain. In this county, the St. John receives its largest tributaries, the Tobique from the E., the Ristook or Aroostook &om the W. About eighty miles from its mouth, the Tobique divides into four branches The extreme sources of this river wind "among naked mountains far in the interior, where the native wild animals find a retreat, and the beaver lives in safety within his dwelling." Formerly there were large forests of the valuable white and red pine in the vicinity of this stream, but most of them have been destroyed by fires. Spruce, cedar, larch, lu'e still abundant, and there are also groves of beech, birch, and maple. The mouth of the Tobique is occupied by an encampment of Melicetc Indians. The Aroostook falls into the St. John two miles above the To- bique, and, with its branches and contiguous lakes, will afford a water communication equal to four hundred miles in extent. Fif- teen miles above the Tobique, Salmon River (so named from its having formerly abounded in that fish), flows into the St. John. About five miles above are the Grand Falls. The St. John, in the midst of its stately course, is suddenly compressed into a narrow gorge, three quarters of a mile long, flanked by steep and overhanging clifl's, from 100 to 150 feet high, at the termination of which, a ridge of rocks changes the hitherto un- broken volume into one vast body of turbu- lent foam, which thunders overaperpeudicular precipice, 58 feet in height, into a deep vortex among huge black rocks, whence the river rolls out impetuously through a channel still more confined in width than the previous one, forming a succession of cataracts for about a half a mile, the picturesque effect being increased by crags of every form, which, in several places, shroud the water from sight. A sudden turn in the river, at the Grand Falls, forms a little pinnacle, on which a pretty village has been built, which is interesting from its romantic position. The isthmus of the foils i^ one of the oldest military posts in the province ; and since the settlement of the boundary question, the government has commenced clearing land and fortifying this important part of the frontier. Twelve miles above the fall. Grand River, enters the main stream, which, a few miles higher, receives the Madawaska, on whose bunks is an Acadian settlement of that name. The soil is fertile, and the population is steadily increasing. It is stated by Dr. Gesner, to include both sides of the St. John, from the Grand Falls to the mouth of the St. Francis, upwards of 40 miles ; and he adds, that there are a few groups of farms and clearings beyond these limits. Having briefly surveyed the counties bordering on the Bay of Fundy, upon the St. John and the United States frontier, we proceed to examine those on the coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Chaleurs Bay. The New Brunswick shore, along the gull of St. Lawrence, is low and sandy, covered with trees of a stunted growth, and skirted with extensive marshes, large deep mosses and long sand beaches, formed by the con- flicting currents of the gulf, and the different uoath of gunpment ook fall* B the To- ontiguout lunication ent. Fif- non River abounded n. About 'aUs. The ely course, •row gorge, flanked by am 100 to ^ of whicli, I 1 itherto un- [y of turbu- ! 1 jrpeudiculai i | nto a deep ( , whence the \ Th a channel | 'the previous ! cataracts for ' ; resque effect every form, j id the water i t the river, at | pinnacle, on , ! L built, which itic i)08ition. of the oldest | and since the question, the clearing land [, part of the he fall, Grand which, a few adawaska, on lement of that the population stated by Dr. ' es of the St. ) the mouth of to miles ; and roups of farms ' mits. Having bordering on St. John and ■we proceed to of the Guif of iay. along the gull sandy, covered th, and skirted re deep mosses led by the cou- ld the different COUNTIES OP KENT AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 229 rivers that pierce the shore. The coast line of the magnificent Chaleiirs Bay, which is 85 miles long, and from 16 to 30 broad, commencing in 47° 68' N. lat., (51° 30' W. long., is similar to the Gulf shore, but in several places there are perpendicular cliffs of some height. Kent County, so named in honour of his royal highness the Duke of Kent, extends from Shediac harbour to the south extre- mity of Miramichi Bay, having about 50 miles of coast, with several small but good harbours. The settlements are chiefly con- fined to the Gulf shore and the banks of the rivers along the tide-way. The Aca- dian-French constitute a considerable pro- portion of the population, and have formed themselves into numerous compact villages. The Itichibucto, on which is built the shire town of Liverpool, is about 65 miles long, and rolls into the Gulf of St. Law- rence, through a safe and capacious harbour, 43 miles S. of Point Escuminac. In its greatest width at the entrance it is not more than a mile, and often does not exceed 200 feet. The tide flows 23 miles from its mouth, affording a suflSciency of water for large vessels ; canoes navigate to its source, whence there is a small portage to the Salmon River, whose source is unknown, but which flows for 80 miles to the S.W., and falls into Salmon Bay, at the head of the Grand Lake in Queen's County. The banks of the Richibucto, for nine miles from the sea, are low and sandy, but further in- land the country assumes an easy and gra- dual elevation, indicating by a better growth of timber a more fertile soil. The Chebuc- touche rises also in Kent County, is 36 miles long, falls into the gulf 20 miles to the south of Richibucto, and is navigable for schooners 12 miles from its mouth, to which extent the tide reaches. This liver is re- markable for its abundance of large and excellent oysters. The county is divided into nine parishes, two of them are quite uninhabited, and the others but scantily populated; yet much of the land is of good quality, and well adai ted for the cul- tivation of grain. The ^\liole surface is exceedingly level, and, on an average, its elevation does not exceed 20 feet above the sea. The coast affords valuable fisheries. Hernng and mackerel are sometimes so abundant, as to be employed in manuring the soil. In the parish of Dundas is the line hai'bour of Cockayne ; in that of Wel- lington is Buctouche harbour. Nwthumberland County, although those of Kent and Gloucester have been taken from it, is still the largest in the province. The principal river is the Miramichi, which, 40 years ago, was only known to a few fur traders, and is now of considerable impor- tance, owing to the timber trade and fish- eries carried on by its hardy and enterprising inhabitants. The Miramichi falls into the Gulf of St. Lawrence in 47° 10' N. lat., 61° 40' W. long., forming at its estuary a capacious bay, enclosing several islands. Chatham, the county town, is situate on the south bank of the Miramichi. On the opposite banks arc the towns of Newcastle and Douglas, which have, phoenix-like, risen •from their ashes, they and other villages having been entirely destroyed in the terrific conflagration of 1825, (described in p. 222.) Two miles below- Douglas town, on the opposite side, is the prosperous village ol Nelson, in the parish of that name. Seven miles above Chatham the Miramichi divides into two branches, one running S.W., and the other N.W. The tide extends about 15 miles up the S.W. branch, beyond the point of junction, and the banks are settled neariy 45 miles from the tide-way, up to which point large-sized vessels can load and unload: from hence to the river Tank, (45 miles,) small craft, lighters, and barges arrive from Cliatham and Newcastle, and proceed through the New Brunswick Com- pany's territory, for 40 miles further; the S.W. branch of the Miramichi containiug more water, from the junction of the Tank when it again ascends to the north wax'd, than the Thair<>s from London upwai'dii. The N.W. ari \' the Miramichi is more rapid and rocky, avd consequently less navi- gable than the S.W . branch : there is, how- ever, little obstruction to canoe navigation for about 80 miles, to wheie it meets the tide, 17 miles above the harbour. The source of the S.W. branch is in the county of York, near the Tobique, 12 miles from the St. John: the commencement of the N.W. branch is not known, the country being there little explored. The former is about 189 miles long before reaching the latter (which is 100 miles in length), each of them receive several streams of from 20 to 40 miles long. The sea-coast of the Miramichi is low, but inland the counti-y rises in some places, consisting of extensive and rich intervales ; in others of a rugged rocky description. The country in general has scai'cely yet recovered from the deso- TiO COUNTIKS OF OLOTJCHSTER AND RISTIGOUCHE. luting cUects of the {ijeut fire, but the establislimcnt and opiTatious of the New Brunswick Company will, it is to be hoped, facilitate the settlement of so fine a ter- ritory. Gloucester County joins Northumberland on the £. and S., and is bounded on the N. by Chaleui's Bay. From its extensive sea-eoast and numerous rivers, this county has y;reat facilities for fi! said to I safe and nest class Ihoiisic is )belltown. iboucliure I igouche is thence, to navigable uiles from i [laukcd on , but level back with Lipying the utainiug a stions of a county is j er the eye it an almost lills, inter- waterfalls, mountains lutiful pine hardwood; and several I plains; in 2xhibit con- and attenu- it grotesqui itous banks , its bed, and once in six rith the ap- Itered lake; he sea, the ■ level, and llistigouche lonsisting of ■ge tracts of dense and id, in which conspicuous, ily settled, a Mr. Per- govemment rimswick, in November, 1845, thus speaks of the province an a field for eraigi-ants : — "If the dirticullies attendant upon the settlement of a new country be taken into consideration there can be no doubt that much lias been effected , in New Brunswick, witliin the brief period i which has elapsed since its first settlement j by British subjects ; yet all that has been done is but comparatively trifling when i considered with reference to the extent of country yet ungrautcd and uncultivated, and the abundant resources it possesses. As a field for the pursuits of agriculture, the prosecution of commercial enterprise, and the formation of flourishing settlements, this colony offers powerful inducements. It is blessed with a rich and productive soil; it abounds with trees of the greatest utility and value, and it is watered by innu- merable rlver^ and streams. It rejoices in skies that are bright and cheerful, and a climate salubrious in the extreme, congenial to the growth not only of the necessaries but many of the luxuries of life : above all, it has the happiness to enjoy British institu- tions and forms of government modelled upon their prototypes in the motlier country, which secure British laws and British free- dom to all its inhabitants." Geology. — New Brunswick presents the same general course whieli the principal for- mations of North America assume ; namely, a direction of the rocky strata from S.W. towards the N.E., or vice versa, or on lines parallel to the border of the Atlantic. A spur of the Alleghany chain of mountains enters New Brunswick, crosses the river St. John, forms Mars Ilill and other emi- nences, extends in a N.E. direction to the sources of the Miramichi, and other rivers, and gradually disappears towards ti\c Cha- leur Bay. Another slightly elevated ridge crosses the Sehoodic river and Cheputnec- tieook lakes, to the Jiui! Moose Hill in Ring's County. Mr. Gesner says, these elevations form anticlinal ridges, against which the stratified masses lean, or they border immense troughs, containing the secondary and tertiary formations. They are chiefly composed of granite, sleuite, trap rock, and porphyry. In a coimtry so little cleared, its minute geological features must necessarily be im- perfectly known. A granite ridge crosses the Cheputneeticook river and lakes, and sends oft" a branch that finally reaches the St. John. Granite also occupies large tracts m Northumberland and Gloucester, and ap- pears on the banks of the Nepisiguit. A hell of sienite and trappean rocks — ten miles in breadth, and at a distance of ten miles from the Bay of Fundy readies from the Kenno- becasis along tiie northern boundary of the county St. John, to the new county of Albert. The Silurian rocks, which include red and dark-coloured flags and slates, sand- stone, freestone, shelly, and compact lime- stone, black and lead-coloured shales, con- cretionary limestone, and grey micaceous sandstone are found In various places, gene- rally running from S.W. to N.E., and highly inclined. Mr. Gcsncr cinimeratcs the following as the principal usfful rocks and minerals of New Brunswick : — Granite, sleuite, roofing slate, porphyry, mica slate, talcosc slate, limestone, hydraulic limestone, marble, alum slate, coal, graphite (or plumbago), ochres, iron ores (abundant), manganese ores, galena (or lead ore), grind- stone, freestone, sulphuret of copper, ame- thyst, agate, jasper, hornstone, thompsonitc, stllblte, apophylllte, hornblende, feldspar, chlorite, garnets, talc, asbestus, maguesite, earijonatc of lime, sulphate of barytes, gyp- sum, potter's elay, tire clay, sulphate of iron, tournjalinc, seri)entine, iron sand, iserine. Sprinys. — Salt, sulphurous, carburetted hydrogen, ferruginous. The Silurian rocks frequently contniu organic remains, and in a section on the Kistlgouclie River and Chalcur Bay, Mr. Gesner noted the following features in de- scending order : — Sfll.VTA. Impure grey niid blue 1 liincstoiio . . / CalciircouH and argilla- \ ceuus shales . . . / Earthy rotten shale . . / Wcnlock limestone. Compact blue limestone. Friable sandstone. Shelly limestone. Compact blue and grey ^ impure limestone in ( hluck, blue, and red i shnlo . . . .J Grey and brown sand- •> stoned . . . . r Compact limestone , . *! „ sandstone , . / Argillaceous and calcareous 1 slates . . . , ^ Coralline marbles Conglomerates . Clay slate OUOAMIU Uemain-h. Producta si)iril'crii, ortho- cera, trilobite^. Crinoiilea, CyathopUyllum turbinum. Atrypa aspcra, with numc- ruud testaeua and corals. Producta, terebratula, Cya- tliophyllum turbinum, Cyathophyllum hoxago- nuni. Encrinal remains. Tentaculitcs omatus, pro- ducta, terebratula, co rals. Eucrinal remains. Corals. No organic remains. No organic remains. The carboniferous series, viz. ; conglome- rates, sandstones, shales, limestone, clay-iron stone, coal, and trap, similar to those of the coal-fields of Great Britain, extend along tl'» 38S MINERALS AND FOSSIL REMAINS IN NEW BRUNSWICK. ooaat in nearly horizontal Rtrata, and in the interior, cmiecuilly at Westmorclnud, are in- clined in angles varying from 2()° to Vf. Minerals. — New Brunswick pondosses an extensive coal-flcid, which commences at Bay Vcrtc, and crosses the isthmus between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. It occu- pies the whole of the counties of Kent and Sunbury, the chief part of Queen's, York, and Northum>)erlan(l, n part of Albert County, and nearly all Westmoreland : on its S, side it is 115 miles in length; on its N.E. about 110 miles: the area is estimated at 7,500 to 10,000 square miles, or nearly one-third part of the whole area of the pro- vince. This immense coal-field presents a low and level surface, excavated by water- channels, and, in general, not elevated more than 40 feet obove the level of the sea. The coal, so far as kuown, is bituminous. A voriety of cannel coal has been found in Albert County. The contemplated line of railway from Halifax to Quebec would inter- sect this coal-field, and open a vast tract of country for settlers. A deposit of copper ore has been dis- covered on the banks of the Nepisiguit River, in the county of Gloucester, by Mr. Stevens. The metal, a green carbonate, is seen cropping out nt the surface, nearly in a horizontal bed, about eight inches in thick- ness. A specimen, assayed in Cornwall, pro- duced 53 per cent, of very fine pure copper. Mr. Frederick Burr states, that the green carbonate is most singularly intermixed with, or disseminated through, a thin stratum of imperfect coal or lignite, much in the same manner that the metallic ores are usually blended with their accompanying veinstones. An approach may, however, be observed to parallelism between the carbonate of copper and the enclosing layer of coaly matter. The specific gravity of the ore differs, of course, in proportion to the quantity of copper contained iu the specimen, which is generally full one-half of the entire mass, but appears to vary from rather more than tv/o and-a-half to about three. Both the upper and under surfaces of this remarkable bed are very distinct and well defined, exhibiting the fibrous and vegetable structure of the lignite. It is covered by a few feet of alluvial soil, and rests on a thin stratum of conglomerate, containing rolled pebbles, which, at this point, covers the pre- vailing formation of the tract, a reddish sandstone, which probably rests upon the granite which Mr. Stevens describes as being seen within about half a mile of the spot. Clay slate is also known in the same neigh- bourhood, some of the beds being used for roofing. It is well known, that water charged with copper in solution, is, by the introduction of iron, made to precipitate the metal. The deposit of lignite occurring with the copper, is evidently derived from driftid vegetable matter; and from the mode in which the copper is interiperscd throughout the mau, it would appear that the water on which it floated was, at the same time, saturated with a solution of copper, and that both the organic and mineral matter subi^ided to the bottom together, forming the singular com- pound now under consideration, and over which, probably, at a subsequent period, the alluvial covering was drifted. Fossils are numerous in the coal-fields of New Brunswick : many are of great size. " In general," says Mr. Gesner — " Every ventige of their leaves has disappeared, and nothing remains hut the simple impression ; but sometimes the leaf is seen in a tnin poper-like lamina of coal, and even in the centre of clay-ironstone balls every fibre of the original vegetable texture is beau- tifully delineated. " The fossil trees are of different kinds, and occur under o variety of circumstances. At the South Joggins, on the shore of Cumberland Basin, and in the face of a cliff, they are situated at right angles to the pianos of stratification, or stand prrpendicular to tlie strata ; and as their roots are sometimes found attached, they evidently flourished on the spot. The only relic of the former living tree is the bark, which has been converted into coal, and still bears the ori- fiiml flutings, furrows, and leaf-scars of the plant, he cylindrical trunks have been filled up with sand- stone, shale, &c., and now rei.resent the original trees in solid stony columns, from 20 to CO feet in length, and sometimes upwards of 4 feet in diameter. In New Urunswick these fossil trees lie prostrate in and between the strata, so far os they have yet bc3n observed. In.some instances they have been changed into coal ) in others, this change has been partial i and parts of many trunks on the shores of Chignecto Buy are composed of sandstone, iron pyrites, sulphate of barytes, and other minerals. At Bathurst, Carriboo Uiver, and other places, the trees have been mineralised by copper, and their trunks have been worked out of the rocks and disposed of for copper ore, yielding 75 per cent, of pure mota). Large stems are found composed altopcther of sand- stone, a])parcntly run in o mould like that of the iron-founder. In some of the large stems the lig- neous fibre remains perfect and distinct ; these ore often mineralized by sulphate of barytes, or calca- reous spar; they resemble rotten ash, and split length- wise very readily. There is still another variety ot large fossil trees in which the whole of the trunk has been changed into a compact lignite: the original bark now appears in coal, and when removed from the fossil, the tree resembles a peeled oak. " Stigmaria are very numerous ; and they are fie quently found with their leaves attached and ex he "pot. 1 c ncigh- uacd for ged with uctioii of ;al. 'I'he ,e copper, vegetable yhieh the the mai«, I which it rated with »)oth the ded to the 'ular com- 'and over period, the Dal-fields of great size. i appeared, and iression ; but «r-like lamina ronstone balls ixture !• beau- ii(l», and occur , At the South i [ Basin, and in ; m right ang e« > I pirpendicular i iinctiracs found 1 the spot. The he bark, which II hours the on- i Ih of the plant. I \ up with sand- iie original treos h feet in length, liamcter. ' leg lie prostrate , tluy have yet ihey have been [liange has been U the shores of ] sandstone, iron br minerals. At [places, the trees iid their trunks and disposed of of pure metal, icether of sand- iVkc that of the ) stems the lig- itinct : these are ^ farytes, or calca- and split length- j lothcr variety ot | I of the trunk has ite: the original In removed trom I oak. mnd they are ue ttached and ex SOIL AND CLIMATE OF NEW HRUNSWICK. 888 tending in til directioni from their trunks into the •hales and sandstom.'s. I^pidoihndra, ealumiUi, ligillaria, aiternphyllitet, PtcopUnrit Umchitieit, and other well-known fossils, are abundant. The flre- clayt beneath the coal are most fVequently loaded with itiqmiiria, as observed bv Mr. W. K. Lo^an in South Wales, and in the underlays of the coal of Pennsylvania. Among the coal-bearing strata there are sometimes thin layers of limestone containing shells, of which the mixliola and cifprii are most Cummnn i with them fossil fish have been found : these remains are of fresh water, and occasionally of marine origin. Sulphurous springs are common in the coal -field, and their waters are used by the inhabitants in the cure of cutaneous diseases." Tliere are 19 limestone qiiarrics in St. John's, and 2 in Carleton. Freestone quar- ries — 2 in Westmoreland; 1 inKing's County; 2 in Sunbury ; 3 in York ; 1 in Carleton ; 4 in Northumberland ; 3 in Gloucester; 3 in Kent. There arc 7 grindstone quarries in Westmoreland, and 2 in Northumberland; a slate quarry in Gloucester; 2 coal mines in Queen's, and 1 in Westmoreland; a man- ganese mine in Gloucester, and a salt man- ufactory in King's county. Soils vary according to the two great classes into which rocks a^e divided, iz., those formed by the agency of fire, or of water. The dismtegration of these rocks as stated in Nova Scotia, aftbrd various soils, differing from each other in their chemical combinations, and adapted to the growth of various vegetable products. There are ex- tensive deposits of alluvial matter scattered by currents over New Brunswick, generally from N. towards the S., often far distant from the place whence they were separated from the mountain rocks. In V'estmoreland, Sussex Vale, and the Grand Tji;ke districts, there arc red and claret-coloured soils, covering plains that would otherwise have been far less favourable to vegetation. The counties of Charlotte, St. John, and King's, contain tracts of granite, sienitc, aud trap rocks, which, when decomposed and finely pidverized, yield wheat, oats, potatoes, aud Indian corn. The trap rock soil contains much potash, and almost always produces hard wood, such as beech, birch, oak, maple, ash, and butter-nut. Kent and Sunbury have a rich, mellow covering of earth . Along the coast of the Bay of Fundy the soil produced from greywacke or grauwaek, talcose slate, and limestones, yields groves of cedar, fir, spruce, haematack, and small pines, with laurel bushes and cranberry bogs. The soils derived from lime- stones, gypsum, conglomerates, red marie sandstone, aud shales, are very fertile, and VOL. I. of various degrees of tenacity. The alluvi- ums forming the best intervaleB, are a dark brown mould, from 1 to 20 feet in thickness, and never require manuro. They arc called " beaver meadows," from hav ing frequently been formed by these industrious animals constructing dams across the rivulets to supply water, where they could be protected from their enemies. From the American frontier across the river St. John, between Woodstock and Madawasca, in a N.E. di- rection to the Ilistigouche and Chaleura Bay, a superior soil is derived fmm the extensive groups of calcareous, argillaceous, and silicious rocks. The shores of New Brunswick contain abundance of marine plants and shells, which furnish excellent manure, and some of tiie soils where slightly subjected to the action of fire when burning off the timber, are thereby improved. Climate. — New Brunswick, like other portions of the North American continent, partakes of the extremes of heat and cold ; the thermometer sometinu .'ising to 100° F. during the day, and fidling in the forest dunng the night of the same day to 50°. The North Pole, overspread to a vast extent mth perpetual ice and snow, sends forth a W. and N.W. wind, which, even in the hottest months of the year, produce a freezing effect. The S. wind is always warm; a S.W. wind produces during the summer, dense fogs along the shores of the Bay of Fundy, which do not extend above 15 or 20 miles into the interior, where they are dispersed by the warm air. A shift of wind during winter or summer, will produce in 2 ! hours a totally dift'crent temperature ; and wherever the laud is not cleared the melting of the snow is retarded in spring, and the ice appears tii autumn sooner than in the open and cultivated country. The "limate of the coast, which is humiil, differs from that of the interior, which is dry. At St. John's the range of the mercury is from 23° beloiv zero to 88° ; at Frederickton from 35° below zero to 95°. The climate of New Brunswick difters but little from that of the state of Maine, Eastern Canada, the north shores of Lake Huron, and part of the Mi- chigan territory. In summer, twilight is seen after nine o'clock in the evening ; and daylight begins at two in the morning. The Aurora Borealis is brilliant at all seasons. The following table and the appended remarks indicate the extremes of temperature, the daily average of temperature, the prevailing winds and weather throughout the year : — 2u 2;j4 METEOROLOGY. NEW BEUNSWICK. Mfteorolwjical Table for FredericUm, N, Bruntteiek, Lot. 4i5' ar, Long. 66* 45'. Fahrenheit Thermometer. Days of Wind. Doyn of Weather. Monthly. i i * 3 if E S. W. N. 1 1 i i 'J* i .3 X < 0^ 1* January 22 12 17 24 4 7 14 24 2 1 4 Fi'bruai-y . 29 19 '24 34 2 4 4 2 m 23 1 — 4 March . . H6 30 33 20 23 2 S — 1 22 2 ■> b April . . 44 30 40 14 12 4 11 __ 3 22 7 — 1 May . . 49* 44» 37 10 20 1 7 3 18 8 b — June . . .iOil 40 48! 0.55 28 19 1 10 IS ti 9 — July . . 73 ■ 58 64 14 20 _ 7 •; 2 18 3 10 — August . . 7fi 69 12 17 . 9 4 1 23 S fi — Scpti'mber. m .» 61 16 17 — 10 2 1 17 5 8 — Octiiber . .i.S 42 47 20 14 8 9 22 V 2 — Xovember . 34 28 31 10 11 « 14 — 16 8 3 4 December . 10 11 13} 24 — — 9 14 8 26 — 2 3 Mean on(l\ Total. / 45} 37J 418 22 lof' 17 87 44 .W 24fi S2 47 21 1st. The severest cold of the winter usually con- tinues from the 2l8t of December to the 21st of March, when the common runge of the mercury is nt sunrise between 20' and 19"; and at two p.m. between fl" and 30' : though changing towards the middle of March, to 37° and 43° in the heat of the day. It is worthy of observation, that there are, during this season, fifteen days in which the mercury remains below 14'; and only five days in which it docs not freeze : a remarkable instance of the severity of an American winter in latitude 46', which is the parallel of the central pai-ts of France, and the north of Italy. 2nd. From the 21st March to the middle of April, the thermometer ranges at sunrise between 19' and 35', and at two, p.m. between 33" and 16'. From the middle to the end of April, a great increase in the temperature is evident: although it sometimes freezes slightly in the mornings, yet the mercury frequently reaches to 55* and 64° in the heat of the day. 3rd. During May, the mornings continue cold, (being in five cases below freezing, and only two nt temperate,) yet the change in the temperature at mid-day is remarkable, being often 62° and 72'. 4th. June, July, and August are very similar in their temperature. The range in the morning is commonly from 35 to 66, and at mid-day, from 71 to 84. In these three months, and untd about the loth September, the thermometer is, during thirty- eight days, at two p. ir sbove summer heat, exhibiting a singular contrast to the extreme cold of the winter, such as is scarcely to be found in any other part of the world. 5th. After the middle of September there is a rapid decrease in the heat of the mornings. The ther- mometer in October at sunrise, on eight or ten days, is l)elow freezing. From the 15th or 20th November to the same time in December, it freezes regularly, though not severely, in the mornings. In the latter montii indeed, it mostly remains below freezing. The prevailing summer winds are from the W.S.W. and South. The winter season is firmly established at the end of December or beginning of Janu- ary, but the deepest snows fall in February, or early in March, to the depth of 8 to 12 inches, wlioH ItoiNtoroui Mtortcs sweep the snow with ({rciit fury aloiif^ the face of the open country, lenvlng itomo plates bare, and raising in othcTN iinmctiso drifts or banks. These violent Ntonnr* HoldHin lost more than one or iwo diiyn. Th«i •crnnl equinox generally bringit ittrong giilcs from the S., accompanied by a thiiw. icc disappears in the bogs, liikt'H, mid rivers, soon after the first of April ; plotigliing begins at the end of the saniu month, wlien summer wheat and oats are sown ) in May vegetation rap- idly advances, gardening is commenced; potatoes are plautcul, and liarley sown before the end of May. 'i'lirnips arc sown in the middle of July, when hay-making com- mences. Unrloy is wf.\m\ in August, wheat and oats in Stiptonilicr. Potatoes and tur- nips are left iiiidcr ground tintil tlie middle or end of Octolior, and parsnips are best if not dug up until spring. Cucumbers, salads, cabbages, caidiilowers, iisparagus, and indeed all the culinary vegctaiilcs known in Eng- land, arrive ot iioi-fuction ; as do also apples, peaches, pars, plums, damsons, currants, gooseberries, Htrawb»!rries, and raspberries. Grapes when sluilttsred ripen in the open air. These products indicate that the climate oflers no inipedimcnt to emigration. Mr. Hooper, iifter \'S years' experience in the North AnHU'icitii colonies, speaking of New Brunswick, siiys 1— "The climitte U yoarly mollorating its rigours; the winters aro liy imi itii'iilis so severe, or of the same dumtidii, lis t()ii vtMifN since, and the reason, to a philosnphicHl mliid, in obvious, The rapidity with which settlers iirti clciii'lng Iho forest, and opening to the light of hwHVtin llii) llice of Iho earth, gives to the sun's Intliieneu n imiPJl grenter space of country annually ; and, us n imtiirnl consequence, the snows melt more uurly nild ritpidly, the winters are conse- fluontly shorlur tliiiii (iiriin'rly. Twenty years since, the wiiUur coiiinieiiPtMl coi'lv In November, and con- tinued genenilly till lllti oiitl of April, making nearly a six months' wliiU'ri Imf within the last five or six years there ha*i hotin iiii (lend winter until Christmas, and the spring has iisiiiilly opened In the early part of Am-il, nuikliig tlm wliiter of little more than three months' duration, It cilhlitil, with all the variations of climiite, lie siild with liropflety that the full dura- tion of wintiir I* moro timn four months. I'hough the cold is inteiisii for iiliio or ten weeks, the air is dry and uhintla, mid I'luiii front the chilling moisture ofallrllish wlliUif," The romarkN as to nniclioration of chmate must bo considernd a|)|)iicable to the interior, rather than to tlie sca-cuiast or adjacent dis- tricts; for tiic I'ollowing table of the opening and closing by ice of tlic river St. John for 21' years, tlucs not indicate any favourable change. upwi I I the ' the aud uiks. than uinox le S., vn in sr the e end wheat II rap- ;nced ; before in the ; com- , wheat nd tur- middle best if 1, salads, 1 indeed in Eiig- ) apples, currants, pberries. open air. ! climate prience iu making of It rigours i , or ot the D reason, to ipiditjr with opening to givcB to the of country the snows are consc years since ;r, and con iking nearly five or six Christmas, ! early part . than three le variations lie full dura- IS. Thougl M, the air w ng moisture of climate lie interior, [jaceut dis- llic opening John for favourable VEGETABLE KINGDOM. NEW BRUiNSWICK. 235 Opening and Ctoiiny of St. John River at Frederivtun. Vears 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 183U 1837 1838 1839 1810 1841 1842 1843 1844 1840 1846 1847 1848 Opened. Closed. Apr. 16 ., 17 ,. 6 ,, 20 „ 17 „ 18 „ 10 May 3 Apr. 10 ., 11 May 1 Apr. 28 „ 17 May 1 Apr. 25 „ 16 ., 27 ., 24 „ 26 „ 14 „ 23 „ 6 „ 2 „ 19 No%, ft Dec. Nov. 20 14 3 19 15 29 Dec. Nov. IS Dee. Nov. 17 23 19 25 23 23 27 22 14 27 4 28 20 13 Days opun. 219 211 241 213 212 226 235 199 219 220 201) 205 206 208 236 221 214 212 202 227 225 236 254 208 Bemarks. (Dec. 26, moved and ( closed again. /Dec. 6, opened and l closed; Ap. 10, ice jam. /Nov. 19, moved J 22, \ closed. (•Nov. 19, opened; 29, I closed. Nov. 16, men crossed. Ap. 21, moved; 24, jam. JNov. 24, opened end ' closed. /Nov. 25, moved; Dec. \ 19, ""osed. /Nov. iV, Steamer Fred- l ericton sailed. 'Nov. 21, moved ; Jan. ' 21, moved. Mar. 29, moved ; ice jam. Nov. 24, opened ; Dec. 15, Steamer arrived; Dec. 16, closed again Steamer St. John sailed. Note. — The average period during which the river remains open is 218 days: it will, therefore, he shut 147 days, or two-fifths of the whole year. In 1832, the river was open for the shortest, and in 1847, for the longest period of which we have ony notice. But whatever may be the duration of winter, or the heat of summer, the salubrity of the province is unquestionable. In the Journal of the House of Assembly for 1846, there is a return of the pensions allowed by the province to old soldiers and their widows during the year: the number thus pensioned from the revenues of New Brunswick is small ; but the lo!igcvity of the pensioners is remarkable. The return is dated March, 1846, is made for each county, and gives the name, residence, and age of every pensioner. In Carlton Coimty, 20 pensioners — one of 1 1 2 years of age (George Sinuctt) ; one 98 ; one 92 ; and the others averaging from 70 to 90. York County, 36 — throe of 90 and ujjwards; 11 of 80 and upwards; 12 of 70 and up- wards. Charlotte County, 36 — one 101 years of age (Susanna Watman) ; 16 ranging fiom 80 to 97 years of age; and 12 from 70 upwards. The other counties present similar instances of longevity, siich as would not probably be found in any other country among an equal aumber of persons of the same class. The salubrity of the climate is thus forcibly attested. The autumn in New Brunswick, as in other parts of the North American continent, is a season of great beauty and delight. Every tint of colour is observable in the woods, the air is dry and clear; and in November that peculiar change termed the " Indian sum- mer," with its serenity and blandncss, its expansive and brilliant aurora at night, and highly charged electrical state of the earth, breaks what would otherwise be a long winter. Shocks of an earthquake were felt in 1663, in 1827, and in 1839. Diseases are few and comparatively simple. Vegetable Kingdom. — Timber Trees. — The lumber trade is so considerable a source of wealth, that a brief description of the principal forest-trees of British America may be useful. For more detailed accounts. Sir A. B. Lambert's splendid work on Ame- rican Pines, Mr. Perley's " Report," and the Canadian Naturalist, by Mr. Gosse, may be advantageously consulted. The chief American timber for commercial purposes is of the genus pinus, which includes the resinous evergreens termed pines and sprucee pimts strnhiis, or white or yellow pine, known in England as the Weymouth pine, is a majestic and beautiful tree, of which some spcoi'mens have; been found on the Columbia river, 250 feet high, and 50 feet iu circumference. Wiicn growing in open situations it is feathered to the ground, and 236 TIMBER TREES OF NEW BRUNSWICK. i'' rises in the form of a pyramid. In Canada and New Brunswick it is occasionally found 150 feet high, with a diameter of five to six feet, at three feet from its base. In New Brunswick and Nova Scotia the white pine is the first tree to take possession of barren, deserted lands, and the most hardy in re- sisting the impetuous storms of the ocean. The age these trees attain is not known: 1,500 annular divisions have been counted. The colder the situation the slower the growth, and the harder the timber. For nearly three-fourths of its height the trunk is single, the limbs short, and disposed one above another; the head is formed by a few upright branches. The wood is soft, light, of fine texture, easily wrought, dur- able, and not liable to split when exposed to the sun. On dry and elevated lands the wood is harder, of a coarse grain, and marked by more distinct concentrical circles. When seasoned, it may be thus compared with the larch and spruce, taking for a standard the oak at 100 :— Woodg. Weight of a cubic foot. Stifihcss. Strength. Toughness. White Pine . . American Larch Black Spruce . lb«. 28 3d to 41 29 95 79 72 99 103 86 92 134 102 The white pine is equally adapted to furnish masts for the largest ships of war, or to be applied to the most ordinary pur- poses in our dwellings. If properly sea- soned before use, it has no tendency to dry rot ; and the unqualified assertion, too fre- quently made, that all British American pine is bad, and all Baltic timber good, is not supported by facts. Mr. Perley states, that at "one of the public docks in England, a very extensive granary of four floors, of 9,200 square feet in area, and which contains about 9,000 quarters of grain, has been built entirely of colonial white pine, with the exception Oi the uprights, which are of red pine. It has now stood 20 years, and is stated to be in every respect perfectly sound and unwarped. It was allowed to remain five years to dry before painting, and up to this time has been painted but tlirice. The architect states, that he considers it likely to stand 90 years. An extensive outside fence of white pine was put ii|) in I'higland 23 years since, and is still perfectly sound ; it also was allowed to remain five years to dry before painting All experience, both in England and America, has shown, that when used for outside purposes, it should be allowed to dry thoroughly before being painted ; and that unless sufficient time be given for the vegetable juices to evaporate, white pine will suffer from the dry-rot in the same manner as other timber under like circumstances. An instance is mentioned of a church in Hertfordshire being fitted up with the choicest oak, and instantly painted with several coats before the vegetable principle had exuded. In a very few years, the beautifid work in the chancel was obliged to be taken down, per- fectly rotten ; and, at this time, the greater part of the pews are in a similar state." The value of this description of pine for masts of large ships is very great. In Murray's " British America," mention is made of two masts for 74-gun ships in the dockyards at Plymouth, which measured 108 feet in length, and a roller that was everywhere 3 feet in diameter. Such a tree must have been 200 feet long, with a diameter of 5 or 6 feet. — It is essential to the dui'ability of timber that it be cut at the period of the dark moon. There appears to be an ascent and descent of some sap or vegetable life in trees thirteen times in the year, rising and waning with the moon. This has been specially noted with timber growing in tro- pical countries. The American government .ore so well aware of the influence of the moon, that the timber supplied for their ships of war is required to be girdled or felled at the dark moon, between the 20th October and 12th February. White pine logs, if stripped of their bark, will remain uninjured thirty years; if not, they are attacked by large worms. Stumps left in the ground resist the influence of heat and moisture many years. Laruv Americana. — A larch — hacmatack of the Indians — tamarack of the Dutch — termed also pinus larix. Leaves deciduous, cones oblong, margin of the scales bent in, bracts fiddle-shaped. Mr. N. Gould, an American merchant of high scientific ac- quirements, who has travelled extensively in the United States and British America, informs mc, that the hacmatack grows "sne- rally throughout the North-Eastern States of the Union and British America, but is found in the largest quantities in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island. The timber is straight-grained and fitted for small spars of ships; Mr. Gould. L-^ 58 shown, 0869, it y before ufficient uices to rem the r timber itance is fordsbire oak, and ts before d. In a k in the 3wn, per- le greater ate." f pine for rreat. In lention is lips in the measured • that was . Such a long, with f of timber ,f the dark ascent and ible life in , rising and , has been ving in tro- government ence of the ;d for their girdled or ■en the 20th White pine will remain ,t, they are imps left in of heat and — hacmatack \ le Dutch — j deciduous, ales bent in, ' Gould, an ; scientific ac- , extensively tish America, i a grows ^'ine- astcrn States erica, but is ties in New ince Edward •grained and Ml'. Gould. LARIX AMERICANA OR AMERICAN LARCH. 237 however i^.entions having tlie mainmast of a vessel of (559 tons made of it — and states that it works roughly — is rather given to warp — is hard, strong, and very durable. In the colonies it is generally used as a building timber, both for houses and small craft ; it is particularly approved for knees to fasten the beams of ships, and the butt of the stem, one of the principal roots forming the angle required. Treenails made of it are also considered to be of very superior quality. It is not a timber of commerce, nor is it used to any extent, but for house and ship- building in the colonies. It is sometimes sawn into deals, but never shipped as hac- matack deals, being occasionally called juni- per, or red spruce, though more generally confounded with spince and hemlock, and shipped as inferior goods. Hard working and warping deals, however valuable on the score of strength and durability, are not esteemed in the home market, where soft- ness of grain, freedom of working, and absence of warping, have given a preference to the white or yellow deal of America. The wood burns with a crackling noise, and though not so <3asily ignited as most of the pine tribe, when once blazing, burns with great briskness, giving out fervent heat ; and, therefore, in great request for the fiiel of steamboat engines in Canada and the United States. Colonial vessels built of this wood are notoriously durable, inferior to none but teak or British oak; and ex- cepting in one instance, (the British Mer- chant,) there is no record of such vessels having been destroyed by dry rot; whilst in several cases, the oak and other ma- I terial surrounding, and attached to the hac- I matack, has been found destroyed by dry rot, I while the larch has remained perfectly free. I Sir A. B. Lambert, in his splendid work ■ on tho pines, describes two species of Amer- ican larch — larix Americana and larix mi- crocarpa—the latter characterised by smaller cones and more drooping branches. Mr. Perley thinks there is no real foundation for the distinction, and lariv microcarpa is not now considered a distinct species, but merely a variety of the larix Americana, the dift'cr- ence being occasioned by the influences of soil and situation, which so much aflect all the resinous trees. Linnseiis states that arch trees live to the age of four hundred cars; but, judging from tho ntimber of conccntrical circles in large trees, they would le is of a dusky red. By boiling, it yields a purjilish colour, which, on the addition of sulphate of iron, becomes a dark blue, approaching to black. It is used in the countrj-, with a certain portion of alum in solution, for dyeing black. The wood of this maple is inferior to that of rock maple for fuel. The French Canadians call this tree plaine. They make sugar from its sap, but, as in white maple, the ])roduet of a given measure is only half as great as i> obtained from the rock or sugar maple. " Sm/ar Maple — Acer Sacchan'inim. — This is the most interesting of the American maples, and is called rock majjle, hard maple, and sugar moplc. The first of these is most generally used ; but Michaux used the last, as indicating one of the most valuable pro- perties of the tree. The sugar maple frequently reaches the height of 70 or 80 feet, with a propor- tional diameter ; but it does not commonfy exceed 50 or 60 feet, with a diameter from 12 to 18 inches. Well-grown, thriving trees are beautiful in their ap- pearance, and easily distinguished by the whitencsj though U I colourinK neni of the are formed have a ro- »ith floweM 1 has begun four poundi I of aqucouB --half of iU )f the white , hence it i« by polishing Inited State* e lower part for gpinmng- luntry is pre- ishcs. rces that the liar direction, the name ol ingement, for ncd, ia nevct , inches of such 89 conspicuous •rohcc. Trees | lo not exist in i I'he serpentine 1 it difficult to j nds of a skilful i of light and ore strikinc, if, I wood -with ith a little sul- ci with linseed I varying shades :he inflection of l)ly perceived on candle-light, general use, the much used for of it, which in lahogany. It is which are used ibinet work, and le red-flowering lown as 'bird's- ely to the sugar he rcd-Howenng ling, it yields a tion of sulphate aching to black. >rtain portion of I. The wood of . maple for fuel. je plaine. They white maple, the lalf as great as it pie. . tim.— This IS the pies, and is called maple. The first i it Michaux used ; lost valuable pro- , maple frequently et, with a propor- commonfy exceed -n 12 to 18 inches, lutiful in their ap- by the whitenesj VARIETIES OF MAPLE WOOD. 243 of their bark. The natural habitat of the sugar ma- ple is the steep and sliaily banks of rivers, and elevated situations, where the soil b cold and humid, free, deep, and fertile, and not surclmrgud with mois- ture. " The leaves are about five inches broad, but th^y vary in length according to the age and vigour of the tree. They are opposite, attached by long footstalks, palmated, and equally divided into five lobes, entire at the edges, of a bright green above, and glaucous, or whitish underneath. In autumn, after the appear- ance of the first frost, their colour changes from green to all shades of red, flrom the deepest crimson to light orange. At first the leaves at the extremities of the branches alone change their colour, leaving the inter- nal and more shaded parts still in their verdure, which gives to the tree the effect of great depth of shade, and displays advantageously the light, lively colouring of the sprays. Later in the season, when the tints become more and more gorgeous, and the full beams of the sunshine fall upon the large masses of foliage, the warm and glowing colours of the whole summit possess a great deal of grandeur, and add much to the beauty and effect of the landscape. " Mr. M'Gregor, in his work on British America, speaking of the forests, says, — ' It is impossible to exaggerate the beauty of these forests ; nothing under Heaven can be compared to its effulgent grandeur. Two or three frosty nights in the declmu of autumn, transform the boundless verdure of a whole empire into every possible tint of brilliant scarlet, rich violet, every shade of blue and brown, vivid crimson, and glittering yellow. The stern, inexorable fir tribes, alone maintain their eternal sombro green ; all others, on mountains or in valleys, burst into the most glo- rious vegetable beauty, and exhibit the most splendid and most enchanting panorama on cartli.' " The wood of the sugar maple when first cut is white, but after being wrought, and exposed for some tune to the light, it takes a rosy tinge. Its grain is fine and close, and when polished it has a silky lustre. It is very strong, and sufficiently heavy, but wants the property of durability ; when exposed to moisture it soon decays, and is therefore neglected in civil and naval architecture. For many purposes, however, it is preferred to beech, birch, or elm ; but it should be perfectly seasoned, which requires two or three years. "The wood of the sugar maple grown in New Brunswick, when dry, weighs forty-six pounds to a cubic foot ; that grown to the southward of New Brunswick weighs much less. It furnishes the best fuel in the province, and its ashes are rich in the alka- line principle. Four-fifths of the pot-ashes exported from Boston and New York to Europe, are made from this maple. The charcoal made from it is pre- ferred to any other i it is one-fifth heavier than the ■ coal made from the same species of wood in the mid- dle and southern states, a fact which sufficiently evinces that the sugar maple acquires its characteristic properties in perfection only in a northern climate. " There is a great resemblance in appearance be- tween the wood of the red-flowering maple and that of the sugar maple ; but the latter is easily distin- guished by its weight and hardness. There is, besides, a very certain and simple test. A few drops of sul- phate of iron (copperas) being poured on samples of the different species, the sugar maple turns grt'enish, and the white maple and red-flowering maple change to a deep blue. "The sugar maple exhibits two accidental forms in the arrangement of the fibre, of which cabinet-makers take advantage for making beautiful articles of furniture. The first consists in undulations, like those of the rcd- fiuwcring maple, and is likewise known a* " curled maple ;" the second, which takes place only in old trees that are still sound, appears to rise from an inflexion of the fibre from the circumference toward the centre, producing spots of half a line in diameter, sometimes contiguous, and sometimes several lines apart. The more numerous the spots the more beau- tiful, and the more esteemed is the wood ; this variety is called ' bird's-eye maple.' It is now beginning to be exported in very considerable quantities to the United Kingdom, where it brings a nigh price i and as its value is becoming more generally understood, it is to be hoped that hereafter it will not bo so lavishly cut and wasted by the lumberers and back- woodsmen as has heretofore been the case. " The ancients held the maple in great esteem i and tables inlaid with curious portions of it, or formed entirely of its finely-variegated wood, in some in- stances brought their weight in gold. To such a height did the fondness of the Romans for curious woods carry them at one period of their history, tliat their tables were even more expensive than the jewels of their ladies. Maple dishes are frequently men- tioned by the Latin poets ; and Cowpcr and many modem poets also mention bowls of maple as being used by shepherds and hermits. Virgil celebrates the maple as the tlirone of the ' good Lvander,' and its branches as the canopy under which he received and seated ^Eeas : " ' On sods of turf he sat the soldiers round ; A innplo tliroiic, vmwA luKhcr from the grnund, lleccivud tho I'rcijaii chief; and o'or the bed A lion's shaggy hulu for ornainuiit thoy spread, ' " Pliny gives an elaborate account of the uses and properties of maples j he enumerates ten different kinds which were known in his time. " Besides the varieties of ' curled maple ' and ' bird's-eye maple,' two other varieties occur in the wens or excrescences which grow on the trunk of the sugar maple. The most valuable of those is known by the name of ' variegated maple knob,' or ' loupe (1 erable (le cottleurs variees, of the French. It pre- sents an assemblage of shades agreeably disposed, sometimes resembling Arabic characters, which ren- ders the wood exceedingly appropriate for fancy work, and, from its scarcity, it commands very high prices. The otiier variety, known by the name of 'silver white maple knob,' or ' loiip aerahle blanc arijetite,' of the French, exhibits a silvery lustre, and is highly prized for the same purposes as the preceding, although more common. " The Indians of New Brunswick have been accus- tomed to make their dishes of those maple knobs from time immemorial, and they still continue to use them, for with ordinary care they last a very long time. Some of these rude dis'.es, when finished and polished bv an experienced workman, are exquisitely beautiful, and worthy a place among the most rare and costly specimens of wood. The extraction of sugar from the maple is a volu- able resource in a country where all classes of society daily make uso of tea and coffee. A cold and dry winter renders the trees more productive than a changpable and humid season. \Vhen frosty nights are wUowed by dry and warm days, the sap flows abundantly ; and from three to five gallons are then yielded by a single tree in twenty-four hours. Three porsons are found suflioient to attend 250 trees ; each ■il4 MOOSE WOOD, FLOWERY MAPLE, AND DOG WOOD. ■ I tree of oriliniiry the jiclds, in a nood scMon, twenty to thirty gallons of aiip, from which flvo or six pouiuU of aiigiir uru miidoi hut the ovoiiigo quniitity, in ordi- niiry ne.iiioni, ia ohout four poundH to ruch tri'C. Wild and dumcatio animals are inimodiTuti'ly fund of mii|j|u Map, uiid brvuk into viictoaurcs to aatv thcni- aelvca with it. "Mouse ff'ood — Aeer Striatum. — The name of mooao wood waa given it by the iirat settlers, from obaerving that the moose subaisted, during the latter part of tlie winter and beginning of spring, upon its young twigs. Its ordinary height ia ten (evt, though individual treca are found more thon twenty feet. The trunk and branches of the mooae wood are cind in a smooth green bark, longitudinally marked with black atripea, by which it is easily distingniahablc at all sennnna of the year. The amall size of the mooae wnoil forbids its use in any kind of construction i but aa it is white and fine grained, cabinet-makers srme- tiraes employ it in forming the white lines with which they inlay mahogany. lU principal udvantago to the inhabitants conaiata in furnishing them, at the close of winter, when their forage ia exhausted, with a ro- aourco for sustaining their c.tttJe, till the advancing season has renewed the herbage. Aa soon as the buds begin to swell, the fuiniaaed horses and neot cattle are turned loose into the wooda, to browse on the young shoots, which they consume with avidity. Poor as this resource may nppeor, it is not wholly inadequate, as the twigs are tender, and full of aiicchnrine juice, " Muuntiiin Maple — Acer M'mtaniim, seldom ex- cceda 15 feet in height, but it blooms at an elevation of or 8 leet, nnd even less. " Flnweru Doiit substitute f Virginia, in rative virtues nchona offici- al numberof recapitulation lornus florida, same ingre- xtracts, which ;id, though in g most of the iceo, the nest, i between the possesses most iilar and equal i resin possess act appears to le resin, when appears to be tonic powers of mbined with a tuous tincture. "or galls in the :k of the more od scarlet dve. this tree, which wood, its useful )cauty and bril- better adapted American trees, ardens and plea- tivated solely as ge white flowers, jh finely contrast deserve richly a ,1 thrive. —By the French Uau blanc, white )e birch. It is these denomina- paper birch,' but med most proper, ! of the bark, ions, the trees of nd ore applied by the necessities of le obstruction of irks of thft wheel- he bark, which is exes, canoes, and itations; with the rom the sap they e. )lied in the forests lying N. of the WHITE AND YKLLOW BIHCH. %» 4:ird drrree of latitude, and between longitude 7S> W., and the Atlantic Ocean i this portion, though situated 10' further B., is said very nearly to resemlile Sweden and the eastern pnrt of Prunniii, not omly in the face of the country, but in the severity of the climate. Below the 43i-d degree of N. latitude, the canoe birch is not found. It attaint its lari^est size, which in about 70 feet in height, and 30 inches in diameter, on the declivity of hills and in the bottom of fertile valleys. Its branches are slender, flexible, and covered with a shining brown bark, dotted with white. The twigs are erect in young trees, but being very slender and pliant, are apt to become pendent in old ones; hence a very beautiful variety, nearly equal ill gracefulness to the drooping elm. " The heart, or perfect wood, when flrst laid open, is of a reddish hue, and the sapwood is perfectly white. It has a flne glossy grain, with a considerable share of strength i that it is little employed, is owing partly to its speedy decay when exposc(l to the succession of dryness and moisture, and partly to the existonco in its vicinity of several species of wood, such as the maples, the beech, and even the yellow birch, which are far preferable for the uses of the joiner and the wheelwright " A section of the trunk of this tree, 1 or 2 feet In length, immediately below the flrst ramiflcation, exhibits very elegant undulations of the fibre, repre- senting bunches of feathers, or sheaves of corn. These pieces, divided into thin veneers, were formerly much used by cabinet-makers in the United States to embellish their work. The canoe birch affords tolerably good fuel, but is inferior to maple. On trees not exceeding 8 inches in diameter, the bark is sf a brilliant white, like that of the white birch of Sweden, and like that, too, it is almost indestructible, frees long since prostrated by time, are often met with in the forests, whose trunks appear sound, while the bark, which remains perfect, contains only a friable substance like vegetable mould. This bark, like that of the European species, is devoted to many uses. In New Brunswick, large pieces are placed beneath the shingles and clapboards to render the houses dryer and less penetrable to cold. " The Indians make boxes, dishes, and a variety of ornamental articles, of birch bark; the boxes they ornament very neatly with stained porcupine quills ; the ornamental articles for ladies are embroidered with coloured silks, or dyed moose hair. Their wig- wams are always built of it, and they use it for water- vessels, drinking-cups, and an almost endless^ variety of purposes. They sometimes manage to boil water in this bark, when split very thin, and in that state they frequently use it as paper. But the most impor- tant use of this bark, and tor which no other can be used, is in the construction of canoes. To procure a proper piece for making a canoe, the largest, straight- e'st, and smoothest trunks are selcctea. After the tree is cut down, a circular incision is made as far up the trunk as the bark is good, that is, just below the branches. A very careful examination is then made to ascertain the best side of the bark, in order that the most perfect portion may form the bottom of the canoe; this being ascertained, a straight incision is made, from the circular incision to tlie butt of the tree. The edges of the bark are next raised with wedges, and much precaution used to prevent any portion flying off too suddenly, and spoiling the whole. Wlien the edges of the bark are fully cleared from the trunk of the tree, the bark is relieved from the pressure which was kept on it until then, and the whole bark of the trunk flies off at once. A piecA thus obtained was 22 feet in length, S6 inches in width at one end, and 46 inches at tlie other. It was subsequently formed into a large canoe of the Miliccte fashion. These canoes are stitched together with flbrous roots of the white styriice, about the size of a quill, which are deprived of the bark, split, and suppled in water. The gunwales and ribs are fonned of white cedar (Cuyr^imi thi/oulei), and the cross-bars of sugar maple : the seams are coated with white spruce gum. The paddles are made either of the red-flowering maple, or the sugar mnpio ; but the latter is preferred. " ffhite Birch — Jietula Populi/olia, is most fre- quently found in places scantily furnished with trees, where the sell is dry and meagre ; in these situations it commonly rises to the height of 20 or 26 feet, and is generally associated with the aspen or poplar. Single trees which grow accidentally in moist and sheltered places, expand to an ampler size, and arc sometimes 40 feet in height, yet not more than 9 inches in diameter. It is less abundant than the other species of the birch tribe, and is rarely found in groups. It is commonly seen by the side of high- ways growing singly on burnt land, or sandy soils which hove been exnausted by cultivation, or which are too poor to produce crops. The trunk is clad in a bark as white or whiter than that of the canoe- birch ; but ita outer bark, when separated from the inner bark, is incapable of being divided like that of the canoe-birch, into thin sheets, which constitutes a very essential and most hnportant difference. The wood is very soft, brilliant when polished, and per- fectly white. From its speedy decay, and the infe- rior size of the tree, it is not employed for any use except for fuel. " Yellow Birch — Betula Lutea, abounds in New Brunswick ; it is always found on cool and rich soils, with ash, hemlock, spruce, and black spruce. In these situations it attains its largest size, which is fVom 60 to 70 feet in height, and more than 2 feet in diameter. It is a beautiful tree ; its trunk is nearly uniform in diameter, straight and destitute of branchea for 30 or 40 feet. It is particularly remarkable for the colour and arrangement of its outer bark, which is of a brilliant golden yellow, and which frequently divides itself into very flne strips, rolled backwanu at the ends, and attached in the middle. The young shoots and the leaves at their unfolding are downy. Towards the middle of summer, when fully expanded the leaves are perfectly smooth, except the foot-stalla which remains covered with a fine short hair. Tli* leaves about 3^ inches long, 2^ inches broad, oval acumuiate, and bordered with sharp and irregular teeth. The leaves, the bark, and the young shootn, have an agreeable taste, and similar to those of the black birch, though less sensible, which they lose in drying. The wood is inferior in quality and appear- ance to that of the black birch ; it never assumes as deep a shade, but it is strong, and when well po- lished makes handsome furniture. It is found by experience to be every way proper for that part of the frame of vessels which always remains under water. It furnishes an excellent combustible. The young saplings are employed in New Brunswick almost exclu.sively for the hoops of casks. Brooms are made of the twigs, and the Indian women make brooms of the wood by splitting it up. The bark is valuable for tanning. Ilussian leather is prepared with empy- reumatic oil from the bark of this tree, whence its peculiar odour. Yellow birch timber is exported to Europe in considerable quantities, but it is shipped |S I I't I \ H J i 146 BLACK ALDER, AND CHERRY TREES. with htuck biroh, uu\ ptuuu* with that iinccioi iiiiUi- criminatvly under the Konoral iikniv of l)lrch. " Jllack llirck — IMula Ltnlii. — Tho nKroeslilo foliage of th« bUck birch, Mid tlie valuable proportiei of ita wood, render it the nioit intervntiiiff of tho American birchoa. In Canada it la called cherrv birch I in New llruniwick it ia alwaya called black birch. It RTOwa in preference in deep, loose, and cool aoilai in theae aituationa it obtaina ita urcateat expaniion, ioinctimea eiceeUinf^ MTtntjr feet in heisht, and three feet in diameter. Ita vegetation ia beautihil, and in a conKenial 1011 Ita growth ii rapid. It in atated in tho "Annala of tho Arta," that a tree of thia apeciea attained tho height of forty-live feet in nineteen yeoru. The black biroh ia one of tlie earlioat treea to renew ita foliage. The leavoi, during a fortnight after their birth, are cqvered with a thick, ailvery down, which diaappeara soon after, lliey are about two inchea long, toothed, hvart-ihaped at the baae, pointed at the aummit, of a plcaiiing tint, and fine texture like the Icavca of the cherry-tree. The ynnng ihonta ore brown, amootli, and dotted with wlitc, ni aro aUo the leave*. AVIicn bruixcd, the leave) diffuse a very sweet odour, and aa they retain tlie property when dried and carefully preserved, they afford an agreeable iiifuaion, with the addition of milk and sugar. " The bark ujion tho trunk of trees less than eight tnchea in diameter, is smooth, grayish, and perfectly aimilar in colour and organisation to that of the cherry-tree. On old trees the outer bark is rough, and of a dusky gray colour; it detaches itself trans- versely at intervals, in hard, ligneous plates, six or eight inches broad. Michaux tlio younger calls this birch one of his favourite trees, and recommends it to tho lovers of foreign vegetables, as eminently adapted by tho beauty of its foliage and the agreeable colour of its leaves, to figure in tho parks and gardens of Europe. He strongly recommends the inhabitants of the old world to introduce it into their foreatii; and particularly mentions the north of France, Eng- land, and Germany, as f'avouruble to its frowth, from the greater humidity of the climate "The wood when freshly cut ii of a rosy hue, which deepens br exposure to the bglit. Its grnin is fine and close, whence it is susceptible oi' a brilliant polish; it possesses also a considerable share of strength. The imion of these properties reader it iupenor to all other species of birch, Thether Euro- pean or American. The weight of a cubic foot of the wood of the black birch, when seasoned, is forty-five pounds. The specific gravity of water being esti- mated at 1,000, that of seasoned black birch wood is 720. When green, this wood floots with difficulty, and sinks after a time, unless supported by timber^ of r» less specific gravity. When well seasoned (which can only be done thoroughly under water) it makes very strong and useful articles of furniture, for which it would be more generally used but for its constant tendency to warp. It is much used in New Bruns- wick in ship-building, for the keel niul lower timbers of vessels; and as it is almost ini]i' lishable under water, it is well adapted for plunking, piles, founda- tion timber, sluices, and, in general, for any purpose where it ia oonatantly wet. " Black birch wood is now exported in large quan- tities to the United Kingdom, in theform of squared timber, and sawq planks : the quantity of each is an- nually on the increase. It has been suggested by a eentlem.-in well acquainted with the timber trade, 't: ! ''twed birch staves might be made a profitable article of export to Orent Britain, for making herring barrels on tiie Ilritiah coast*. " Tho wood of this specie* of birch Aimlaho* excel- lent fuel, tocond only to that of the sugar maple. Tlir inner bark ia full of tannin. The sap, drained liy incininn in March and April, make* excellei t vinegar, and a ulcasant weak wine may be obtained from '* by boiling and fermentation. " The akiar i* found overywhci-o in Now ilnmiwick frequently growing along the 4i'lei of brook*, and abounding still more in places o» VLrod with stagnant water. As the roots of tiio aider penetrate to a great distance, it contributes more eftectually than mutt other trees to support the banks at the season of the overflowing of tho witen . " The ordinary dimension* of the common older is about ten or twelve feet in height, ond two or three inehci in diameter. Its leaves are of a hcautiful green, distinctly furrowed on the surface, and doubly toothed at tho edge. " The bluck alder is much larger than tho common alder, being sometimes eighteen or twenty feet id height, anu throo or four inches in diameter. I' leaves are similar in shape, but are easily disting'iinh able by their dilferent tint and superior •!■ 1 thcj aro of a uulo bluish-green, and a *''ird )i. ' " than those of tlio common alder. The bark of , ■ iilt, and of tho secondary branches, IS smr< '' '.' ,aiid of a deep brown colour, sprinklcil with whiu . Buth snvcicH grow in cool, moist pic .'*, on the bank* of rivulets and in swamps, A^ their trunks ..le geno rully straiglit, tapering gi 'luully from biiso to sum- mit, garnished with nunuious brunches, bending rather tlnse around the stuck, they grow in grcut numbers in a small spnce. " The wood, when first laid open, is white, but i< soon becomes reddish by contact with ih'^ mr. Th( small size of both species mentioned, prevents theii being of any very great use in the arts. The alilvi takes a better black than any other wood; when polished and varnished, it affords a good imitation of ebony. With sulphate of iron, tho bark forms a blni'k dye for colouring wool; it is sometimes used by hatters in the United States for dyeing hats. A cubic foot of alder wood, in a dry state, weighs from 34 to 50 pounds. It soon rots when exposed to the weather or to dump ; but it is extremely durable in water or in wet ground. " Cfiern/. — Tlie treea of this genus are deciduous, with smooth serrated leaves, and white flowers. The two species which have been noticed in New Bruns- wick are more or less abundant, in proportion to the dryness and humidity of the soil, which are alike un- propitious. They stand less in need of shelter than any fruit-bearing tree whatever, and may often be employed on the margins of orchards, or for sur- rounding kitchen-gardens to form a screen against hij^h winds. They are said to thrive best when un- mixed with other trees, and they suffer grass to grow beneath tb' ' : 'lad". According to experiments which have beei. it. ..• i.> s!a.ed that no tree of conside- rable size heu'-' tid,: p'lnting better than the wiM cherry, \ . < f.^ ,, . / M large tr , ..ich have been re 1 ,; - 1 a check by Lii0 operation; but from ilrnt liit-y generally recover in the course of two, or at most three, seasons. As a tree, one of its valuable properties is the food and protection which it afibrds to numerous species of birds. This ia one reason why the cultivation of the wild cherry is so generally encouraged in the forests of Britain, of Belgium, and of I< ranee, as it not only increases the Ling herring ilnhfn •«•*• imiilo. 'I'l'f (Iruined by lei t \ineKBr> [ inHtl froro '* n BniMwlcIl, I brookii, mJ Me to s grettl ly than mo»t lewon of the I nmon older U 1 two or three ,f a hcBUtiful e, »ml doubly \ n the common iweiity feet b' \ diamutur. l' ily dUtinU''"'"'' rior »i' ( *'"; i ird h. ■' '•'»" V of . . ■•■I'; 1 , .1 ,, , nad h whiu. both I in the bonV< ol i runkH ^le genr- ,m biiso to miin- inches, bending 1 ■ grow in greut I ie white, but i' ; th 111" u»r. Tht I I d, prcvenla then i arU. The alild ' Ler wood) when I rood imitation of , bark forms a I sometimes used dyeing hatn. A > \ ate, weighs from : j n exposed to tlie emely durable in us are deciduous, rhite flowers. The jd in New Brunn- , proportion to the lich are alike un- ■d of shelter than nd may often bo lards, or for sur- a screen against _^ive best when un- j iffer gross to grow expcrimenU which tree of lonsido- tter thar. the witJ s ir , ..ichhave by i.i»tf operation i er in the course of 8 a tree, one of lU i protection which jirda. This i« one wild cherry is so •ata of Britain, of only increases the WILD CHERRY, NORTHERN CHERRY, AND POPLAR TREES. 947 number of birds by snpphi" them with nourlah- ment, but is the meann of destn "i; countless insrots which these important and ustiii, reaturi'S devour. In all ornamental plantation*, heLre; and, when chosen near the rnmiHealiun .,f ifii; tii/.nli. >t rivals mahogany in beauty. 'IIh tiiuk of th» Waiirhea and of the r^mls is thcr.' .nlri o,! hy Wrtv vcnilers, and bro\iglit to niiirk>-t in jui'cea «t iMg^ menUk The bark of th- root is i ■•parded •• is destitute nf epidermW or outer bark, of a brown f'"'»ur, brittle, easily pnlvcris<"l. and preMMU, when broken, • )?r!>yi»h surface. \*'hen Irvah, the odour '■» pruKnic, wlii«'l' ii lost in a mcn-suro in drying, but ri'L^iiMied by moci-ration j th» taste is aromatic, prussic, iimti hitter. It is stated, undoubtedly, to bo us('f\il tnnie, and to possess, in tome degree, narcotic ond nnti-»pii(iiM(Uo properties, "The fruit is employed !■ NowBr\mswick to make a cordial, hy infusion in ruin or brandy, with thoad- i dition of sugar j and, when carefufly mode with ] brondv, it is superior tortcd from Copenhagen. " Xorlhvrn C/ieni/ Tree- -Ceratus liorcaltn, — A linndsome small tree, (frowinif to a height of 210 or 'M) feet, witli a trunk or H inches in diameter, nind covered with a smooth brownish bark, which detaci ■■ itself laterally. Its leaves iire from 3 to 8 inol - long, oval, t/«)thed, and very sharp pointed. Tii>< flowers put forth in >l*v or June, and occur in tmnll white bunches, whicli i?ivc Kirth to a small, red, in- tensely-ncid fruit, whi< n nirivos ut maturity in August. The fruit is not very ninduut even on the largest trees. This tree, like the o >ne birch, is said to offer the some remarkable ix'tii irity of reproducing itself spontaneously, in olU cu -ivated flelds, or such parts of the forett as have bi i burnt over. Uf all the trees of North America i one is to nearly allied to the common cherry (Ceru ,s rulf/aru) as the present species, and hence it hat "■vi\ recommended as a suitable stock to groft that horry upon. The wood is exceedingly hard, fme-gi- ••ined, and of a reddidi hue, but the inferior size of t le tree forbida ita use in the mechanical arts. " Poplar. — At present only two species of trees of this genus have been recogni' J in New Brunswick. The wood of the European Bsirvv», m well to procure food, as to build Willi ihitm Ui»lr uliiguliu'ly ingenious dams for creating u^littviul iinndit. " Ukkcii.— Ill North Ampricn, ■• In Europe, the beech is one at the ninut nii^wilio trues of the forest Beech, savs Wlilto, of Holboma, is one of the most grand and lo»uly uf ull the forest trees, whether we consider iU Rt«tely trunk, Its smooth silvery rind, iu glossy foliagu, or grnecAil spreading pendulous branohes, No Uvit, nny» nniither writer, is more beautiful when Ntiuiillng sitigly In pork^ or orna- mental grounds, us it throws out its branches very regularly, wid fVutlitirs almost to the ground. In woods or grovds It grows clear of branches to a con- siderable huiuht, Virgil WHS right in choosing the beech for Its sltnde, for no troo forms so complete a roof I but no verdure is found under its shade. The beech is moat |)l«ft«lng In lu Juvenile state. A li^t airy young tree, with ItM splry branches hanging in easy forms, la often IxmiitilHil, " IfMii lli'iivh-I'Ui/iiii Sjihuntni, is more slender and loss branchy than the red beech ; but its foliage is superb, and its goncrul npjMiarance magnificent. The loovea we ovttl, pointed, smooth, shining, and bordered. In the aiirlng, with soft, hairy down. The sexes are borne iiv (liireruMt bronohos on the same tree ; the bnrruii ilowen are oolleoted in pendulous, globular heads, niid the others are small and of a greenish hue. The iVuU Is In an erect capsule, covered with loose, (loxlltia spires, which divides itself at maturity Into four part*, ond gives liberty tc two triangular seeds. The bork upon the trunk ot the beeohca la thick, groy, ond, on the oldest stocks, smooth and onMrn. Tlii' perfect wood of this species bears a amall proportion to the sar!Wood, and fre- (juontly ocouplna only il Inches in a trunk 18 inches in dittinetiir. The apnclllo numo of ' white beech" is derived ft'oni the eoloiir of its alburnum or sapwood. The wood of llila species Is of very little value except for fuel, In Ohio, the ImrU of thn white beech is used for tanning, nnd the Iciitlmr made with it is said to bo white ond /tcrvlcettUle, and inferior only to that propnrod with oiik liitrk. " lied Jiiiteh^Fiii)iu J^'iruffitiM. — This species of beech la olmnat exehislvely confined to the north- eastern iwrts of Ihe United Slntcs, ond the provinces of Canada, New llrunswick, Novo Scotia, ond Prince Edward Island, In some parts of New Brunswick, and genornlly in I'rinee Kdword Island, it is so abun- dont OS to flonalltuteoxtenslvu forests, the finest trees growing on fertile, level, or gently sloping lands, which are proper for the oultiiru of grain. Its name is derived IVoni the colour of its wood, ond not from its lenvea, The red lieeoh cquols the white beech in diameter, hut not in height i und, as it rnmiflcs nearer the ourth, and la more numerously divided, it has a more manalve aiiminit, ond the appearance of more tufted folliige, lla leaves ore eqnolly brilliant with those of the while beech, o little larger and thicker. They become a pule yellow In the outumn, and they frequently runiuin on (ho tree during the winter, rc- toining that ciiliiur, The IVult Is of the some form as that of the while beech, but is only half os large, and is gorniahod wWi (Inner and less numerous points. To tho«'jjii,tl'iireiiees must !/o odded on important one in the wood, A red beech, Id or 18 inches in dia- meter, has not more than •') or 4 inches of sapwood ; while a white beech, of the nomo size, has 13 or 14 inchoa of aapwoud, ond very little heart of any value, i The wood Is stroiiuer, tougher, nnd more compact thnn the white, und It bears a very strict oialogy to i II iiropei the the forest I the moBt rhether we Ivtry rind, pendulous r, M more I, Gr orna- inches very round. In ig to a con- loosing the complete a ihade. The te. A light hanging in nore slender ut its foliage mngniflcent. shining, and down. The on the same in pendulous, lall and of a rect capsule, rhich divides ives liberty tc , the trunk ot oldest stocks, of this species lood, and fre- unk 18 inches fhite beech" is m or sapwood. B value except (liite beech is with it is said ir only to that 'his species of to the north- II tlif provinces (lia, and Prince lew Brunswick, I, it is so abun- the finest trees sloping lands, lain. lU name |l, and not from \ | white beech in , , ramifies nearer .divided, it has Icarance of more ly brilliant with , [or and thicker, itumn, and they , the winter, re- | i,ie same form as alf as large, and lumerous points. \n important one is inches india- [licBof sapwood) Ye, has 13 or 14 firt of any value. \\ more compact strict oialogy to AMERICAN HORNBEAM, IRON WOOD, AND ASH. 2 !!) the European beech. When perfectly seasoned, it is net liable to warp ; and a cubic foot of it tlien weighs from 43 to 53 pounds. " Representing the strength of oak b^ 100, thot of beech will be 103; representing the stiffness of oak by 100, that of beech will be 77 ; representing the toughness of oak by 100, that of beech will be 138. Hence it appears that the oak is superior in stiffness, but neither so strong nor tough. Before iron rails were introduced, much beech was used for railways for the collieries about Newcastle. The red beech is very durable when preserved from humidity, and in- corruptible when constAntly in the water ; but it rapidly decays when exposed to the alternations of dryness and moisture. It is much esteemed in naval architecture for those parts of vessels which are con- stantly wet, and it is much used in Prince Edward Island. An old and experienced English ship-builder, residing at Richmond my, in Prince Edward Island, assured the writer that, on the lower part of vessels, he had known the red beech wood of the island sound at the end of 40 years ; in such situations he consid- ered it fully equal to English oak in strength and durability. The wood of the red beech is much es- teemed for fuel, and its ashes afford good pot-ash. It serves for shoe-lasts, tool-handles, planes, and mallets ; and sometimes chairs, bedsteads, and other articles of furniture are made of it "Sheep and goats eat the leaves of the beech. When gathered in autumn, before they are much injured by frost, the leaves, on account of their elastic quality, make better jiaillaiica tlian cither straw or chaff, and they last seven or eight years. The nuts of the red beech are produced every second year. They are of a triangular form, with a smooth tough skin, and a fine interior pellicle adhering to the kernel. They are united in pairs, in capsules garnished with points, from which they escape about the 1st of Oc- tober, the season of their maturity. In France and Germany an oil is extracted from the beech-nut, next in fineness to that of the olive, and wliich may be preserved longer than any otlier oil. But tliev seem to yield little oil in northern countries. Liiina?us says that, in Sweden, very little oil can be expressed from them, and the attempt has not yet been made in New Brunswick. Hogs fatten rapidly on beech-nuts, but the pork is not esteemed; bears, partridges, squirrels, and mice, feed on them largely. In Bel- gium very solid and elegant hedges are made with young beeches, placed 7 or 8 inches apart, and bent 411 opposite directions, so as to cross each other and form a trellis, with apertures 5 or 6 inches in dia- meter. During tlie first year they are bound with osier at the points of intersection, where they finally become grafted and grow together. As the beech does not suffer in pruning, and sprouts less luxu- riantly than most otner trees, it is perfectly adapted to this object. " American Hornbeam — Carpinus Americana. Ordinary stature from 12 to 15 feet, but it sometimes reaches 25 or 30 feet in height, and 6 inches in diame- ter. The trunk of the American hornbeam, like that of the analogous species in Europe, is obliquely and irregularly fluted, frequently through all its length. Uy Its form, and by the appearance of its bark, which is smooth and spotted with white, it is easily dis- tinguished when the leaves are fallen. It sheds its leaves in autunm, about the same time with the elm. lluring the time of its verdure it makes a good appearance, being well clothed with leaves, which kto oval, pointed, finely denticulated, and of a deep, VOL. I. strong, green colour. Cattle cat the leaves, hut no pasture grows under its shade j it is easily trans- planted, and bears lopping. The fructification is always abundant, and the amcnts remain attached to the tree long after the foliage is shed. I " The wood, like that of the European hornbeam, I is while, and exceedingly compact and fine-grained. ' It is in great request among the farmers for axe handles, and for agricultural implements, or for such parts of them as require great strength. Cogs for mill-wheels are made of the wood, and are accounted superior to those made of the wood of the cugar maple, which is generally used for that purpose. In Scandinavia, the inner bark of the hornbeam is used to dye yellow ; and the Indians of America u.ic it occasionally for a similar purpose. " Iron Wood — Carpinus Ostrya nowhere forms masses even of inconsiderable extent, but is loosely disseminated, and found only in cool, fertile, and shaded situations. It rarely reaches thirty-five feet in height, and twelve inches in diameter, and commonly does not exceed half these dimensions. In the winter, this tree is recognised by a smooth grayish bark, finely divided, and detached in strips not more than a line in breadth. The leaves are alternate, oval-acuminate, and finely and unequally denticulated. The fertile and barren flowers nrc borne ot the extremity of different branches of the same tree, and the fruit is in clusters like hops, whence the specific name ostrya. The small, hard, triangular seoil, is contained in a species of reddish, oval, inflated bladder, covered at maturity with a fine down, whicli causes a violent irritation ot tlie skin if carelessly handled. The eonceiUrical circles of the wood are closely compressed, and their number, in a trunk of only four or five inches in diameter, evinces the length of time necessary to acquu-e this incon- siderable size. The Canadian-French call iron wood, bois dm; hard wood. " The wood is perfectly white, compact, fine-grained, and heavy. To its inferior dimensions must he ascribed the limited use of a tree, the superior fropertios of whose wood are attested by its name, t is exceedingly valuable for all purposes to which its small size will permit it to be applied. Near New York brooms and scrubbing-brushes are made ol' iron (vood, by shredding the end of a stick of suitable dimensions. " Asii is a very rapid growing tree, and its wood differs more from difierence of soil and situation than that of any other tree. The wood of ash soon rots when exposed eitlier to damp or alternate drjiiesn and moisture, but is tolerably durable in a dry situa- tion. It is said that the best season for felling nsh is from November to February; and that when felled in full sap, it is very suoject to the worm. In such case, the wood is saii to be much benefited by water seasoning. It is very much esteemed for its toughness and elasticity; and in consequence of these ])roperties, it is useful whenever sudden sliocks are to be sustained, as in various parts of machines, wh""l-carriages, implements of husbandry.ship-blocks, tools, and the like. It has been found as useful in the oi-ts of war as in those of peace, in ancient as well as in modern times : — " ' From rdion's cloudy top, an ash entire 01(1 Chinm leU'il, unci slmp'tl it for his sire.' Pope's Homer, "The wood is too flexible for the timber of build- ings, and not siitrieicntly durable. Its texture is alternately coniiiaet and porous, the compact side of 2k 250 WHITE ASfi, BLACK ASH, AND WILLOW. !:'i!i the annual ring being the lighter coloured, whicli renders the aniniul rings very distinct. The drip of the ash is said to be very unfavourable to all other vegetable productions. It exhausts the soil very much ; the roots spread widely near the surface. " White Ash — Fraximis Americana, is an inter- e.iting tree from the qualities of its wood, the rapidity of its growth, and the beauty of its foliage. It abounds in New Brunswick; a cold climate seems most congenial to its nature. The baric is of a white colour ; on large stocks the bark is deeply furrowed, and divided into small squares, one to three inches in diameter. " The most favourable situations for white ash are the banks of rivers, and the edges and surrounding acclivities of swamps, where the soil is deep and fer- tile. In such situations, it sometimes attains the height of SO or 60 feet, with a diameter of 18 inches or more. The trunk is perfectly straight, and often undivided to the height of more than 30 feet.. " The leaves of the white asli are ojiposite, and composed of 3 or 4 pairs of leaflets, surmounted by an odd one. The leaflets, which are borne by short t'ootstulks, are 3 or 4 indies long, about 2 inches hroad, oval, pointed, rarely denticulated, of a delicate texture, and an undulated surface. Early in the spring, they are covered with a light down, of a pale j;reen colour above and wliitisli beneath. As the con- trast of colour between the surfaces is remarkable, n;id is peculiar to the species, Dr. Meclilenberg has denominated it Fraxinus discolor. " Tlie shoots of the two preceding years are of a bluisli-gray colour, and perfectly smooth ; the distance between their buds suliiciently proves tlie vigour of Uieir growth. " White ash is almost always accompanied by white elm, yellow birch, white maple, and hemlock and black spruce. The wood in young, thrifty trees, is very white, from the bark to the centre s but in large, old trees, the heart-wood is of a reddish tinge, and the sap-wood white. The weight of a cubic foot of this wood, when dry, vai-ies from 34 to 62 lbs. ; when the weight of a cubic foot is lower than 45 lbs., the wood is that of an old tree, and will be found de- ficient butli in strength and toughness, llepresenting the strength of oak by 100, that of ash is 119 j repre- senting the stiffness of oak by 100, that of ash is 89 ; representing the tcugliiioss of oak by 100, that of ash is IGO. The ash, therefore, exceeds both in strength and toughness, and in young wood the difference is still more considerable. " The wood of the white ash is highly esteemed for its strength, suppleness, and elasticity. It is su- perior to every other wood for oars, and second only 10 hickory for handspikes. Besides its use by carriage and slcigh-makei'S, it is in very general use for agri- cultur! 352 RELATIVE STRENGTH OP DlFPERJilNT KINDS OF WOOD. 11 Li'' ) i! downy like tlic buds. The loiives nre oval, pointed, doubly denticulated, and Inrger, thicker, and rougher than those of the wliite elm. Tlie bark upon tlie trunk is of a brown colour. " The heart-wood is less compact than that of the white elm, coarse-grained, and of a dull red tingo. It has bei n remarked, that the wood, even in branches of 1 or 2 inches in diameter, consists principally of perfect wood. It is suid to be stronger, more durable when exposed to the weather, and of u better quality than the wood of the wliite elm, although coarser in the groin. In the United States it is accounted the best wood for blocks, and its scarcity is tl>e only cause of its limited consumption. " American Lime, or Bass Wood — Tilia. — Although several species of the lime-tree arc found in North America, yet but one species flourishes in New Bruns- wick, which is usually called bass wood. It is gene- rally found associated with sugar maple and white elm. " Bass Wood — Tilia Americana, is sometimes more than 80 feet high, and 4 feet in diameter; and its straight uniform trunk, crowned with an ample and tufted sununit, forms a beautiful tree. The leaves are alternate, largo, nearly round, finely denticulated, heart-shnpcd at the base, and abniptly terminated in a point at the summit. The trunk is covered with a very thick bark ; the inner bark, separated from the outer, and macerated in water, is formed into ropes, and also the broad plaited bands used by the Indians for carrying their bui'thens. They formerly made their fishing lines and nets of this bark. The name bass wood is supposed to be a corruption from bast, which is applied to the European lime-tree by the rustics of Lincolnshire, because ropes were made from the bark. " The twigs and buds oi the bass wood tree are very glutinous when chewed, and afford considerable nutri- ment. In severe winters, when fodder is scarce, the farmers in Maine and Vermont, and sometimes in New Brunswick, drive their cattle into the woods of a morning, and fell a bass wood or other tree, on which they eagerly browse during the day. In winter this tree is easily recognised by the robust appearance of the trunk and branches, and by the dark brown of the colour on the shoots. "In newly-cleared lands the stumps of the bass wood are distinguished by the numerous sprouts which cover them, whose growth can only be pre- vented by stripping off the bark, or by fire. The stumps of other large trees, the elm, sugar ma])lo, and ash, left at the same height of 3 feet, do not pro- duce shoots. The wood, when dry, weighs 35 pounds to a cubic foot. It is very white when green, but becomes of a light brown hue when seasoned. It is soft, easily worked, and is used for the panels of car- riage bodies, seats of chairs, and the fans of fanning- milis. The wood is useless as fuel, being too full of sap when green, and of but little value when dry." The following Tabic may be used for finding the ultimate transverse strength of any rectangular beam of timber : — Rule. — When the beam is Ji^ed at one end, and loaded at the other, the weiglit in pounds which it will sujiport before breaking, will be obtained by multiplying the number opposite the kind f timber in the third column of the above table, by the breadth and square of the depth of the beam both in inches, and dividing the product by the length, also in inches. Table of the specific gravity, weight of a cubic foot, and relative transverse strength of different kinds of woiid. Names of Materials. Ash (English) .... Ash (American) . . . Ash (American Black) Ash (American Swamp) . Beech (English) . . . Beech (American Bed) . Beech (American White). Birch (English common) . Birch (American Black . Birch (American White) . Birch (American Yellow) . Cedar (Bermuda) . . . Cedar of Lebanon . . . Cedar (Canodian) . . . Cedar (American White) . Elm (English) .... Elm (Canada Bock) . . Fir (Mar Forest) . . . Fir (New England) . . Hickory (American) . . Hickory (American Bittemut) Iron-wood (Canada) . . Larch (Scotch) . . . Larch (American Tamarack) Mahogany (Nassau) . . Mahogany (Honduras) . Greenheart (Demerara) . Maple (soft, Canada) . . Maple (Rock American) . Oak (English) .... Oak (American White) . Oak (American Bed) . . Pine (Bed) . . . . , Pine (American Yellow) . Pine (American 'White) . Pine American Pitcli) . . Spruce Spruce (American Black) . II 0.72 0.64 0.64 0.92 0.77 0.78 0.71 0.71 0.67 0.65 0.76 0.75 0.33 0.80 0.36 0.69 0.72 0.G9 0.65 0.83 0.87 0.88 0.60 0.44 0.81 0.53 0.98 0.68 0.75 0.84 0.78 0.95 0.66 0.46 0.43 0.70 0.50 0.77 .3 is »* i 46. 40 33.7 67 6 48.2 487 44.4 44.4 41.0 40.6 47.5 46.8 20.6 60.0 22.6 36.0 45.0 43.1 34.4 61.9 64.4 55.0 37.6 27.6 50.0 33.1 61.2 42.5 46.8 .52.5 48.7 59.4 41.2 28.8 26.9 43.8 31.4 48.2 if 1.800 1,800 861 1,165 1,506 1,720 1,380 1,820 2,000 1,604 1,335 1,443 1,493 766 1,013 1,970 1,232 1,102 2,020 1,465 1,800 1,200 911 1,750 1,603 2,600 ! a!94 701 1,700 1,740 1,672 1,500 1,300 1,160 1,700 1,346 1,036 Note 1. When the beam is fixed at one end and loaded uniformly throughout, the result obtained by the rule must be doubled. Note 2. When the beam \sfixed at both ends and loaded in the middle, the result obtained by the rule must be multiplied by 6. Note 3. When the beam is fixed at Doth ends and loaded uniformly throughout, the result obtained by the rule must be multiplied by 12. Note 4. AVhen the beam is supported at both ends and loaded in the middle, the result obtained by the rule must be quadrupled. Note 5. When the beam is supported at both ends and loaded uni- formly throughout, the result obtained by the rule must be multiplied by 8. N.B. — Two-thirds of the foregoing results are reckoned fully sufficient for a permanent load. :he beam jt by the jttWe foot, rent kinds i.S 5. 0. 3.7 76 8.2 87 [4.4 14.4 11.9 i().6 17.5 46.8 20.6 60.0 22.6 30.0 45.0 43.1 34.4 61.0 S4.4 65.0 37.6 27.6 50.0 33.1 61.2 42.6 46.8 .52.5 48.7 69.4 41.2 28^ 26.9 43.8 31.4 48.2 H ii 1.500 1,800 861 1,165 1,556 1,720 1,380 1,820 2,000 1,604 1,335 1,443 1,493 766 1,013 1,970 1,232 1,102 2,020 1,466 1,800 1,200 911 ,750 ,803 ,()00 ,i'9-} 700 740 ,672 ,500 ,300 1,160 1,700 1,346 1,036 f, one end and result obtained te 2. When the d in the middle, t be multiplied 9 Jtxeil at Doth hout, the result dtiplicd by 12. erf at both endis lit obtained by te 5. "When the and loaded uni- ,ned by the rule 'wo-thirds of the sufficient for a 2A9 '•i-s,* -~f «•• ,. "V*" .) .* .1,. ,-K. '.. ,.-« .ai>> ■< i ^vu■ CHAFfER III. ■i ■--■; ; ir.ll' i. .'.Il...-,li%A Hi- A J.i 1 POPULATION, GOVERNMENT, RELIGION, EDUCATION, CRIME, AND INSTITUTIONS, When New Brunswick was flmt known to Europeans, it appears to have boon inhabited by several different nations or tribes, of whom only two are yet in oxisteneo — the Mic-Macs and the Melicetos, or Morrisettes. Tbe Mic-Macs speak a dialect of tbo Iro- quois (or Six Nations), Huron, and other northern tribes. The Melicotes arc de- scended from a Delaware or southern rnco ; but in physical appearance thoy differ little. Both tribes nro of a copper colour, with high check bones, hnzel eyes, lon^, straight, coarse, black hair, and scanty beard. Tliey are of rathcir tall stature, erect, very active, not rcmarkablo for mus- cular strength, but with great powers of endurance ; a journey of seventy miles a-day being not unfrequently performed under a heavy burden ; bears, deer, and mooso, are pursued, and overtaken by them j in ascend- ing and descending dangerous rajiids, no Europeans can compete with the Indians; and the quickness of their perceptions in tracing men and animals by the trail or scent, is stirprising. This latter quality the American Indian possesses in common with the Australian and other savages j b\it ho is superior in many respects to other unciviliiicd races, and his ultimate extinction, which seems now inevitable, is much to bo re- gretted. Long before the introduction of Europeans the savage and exterminating warfare carried on between tho dilfcrent tribes, was fast thinning their numbers j but the small pox and other diseases commimi- cated by Europeans, and tho s\im)ly of spirits, in the use of which tho Induui can exercise no moderation, have caused their rapid and almost complete extermination. The total number in tlio iirovincc? was in 1841, of Mic-Macs, 985 ; of MoUeotcs, ■!. 12 = 1,377. Both tribes ore scttored in families in different parts of tho pi-ovinco, and many wander about in novtu'ty and wretchedness; 14 tracts of land, containing (11,273 acres of land, have been set asido by government as Indian reserves for tlieir use. Most of them have been nominally con- verted to the Roman Catholic faith, and no efforts bare been spared by tho British government to protect and civilize the abo- rigines of the country. Although both tribes inhabit the same country, their lan- guage is totally distinct. The Lord's prayer in each language is as follows : — Tho Lord's Prayer in the Mic-Mac Language. Nnnrch enen waa-soke abin, chip-took, tolwee-sin me-gay-day-de mek. Waa-soke-te-lee-daa-nen chip- took igga nam-win oo-la ne-moo-lek naa-dee la tay «o-nen. Naa-tel waa-soke ai-keek chip-took ta-lee- skn-doolek ma-ga-mi guek ay e-mek. Tel-la-moo- koo-be-ne-gal es-me-a gul open nega-a-tah_kces_-took igga-nam-win nes-el-co-nen. Ta-lee a-bik-chik-ta- kna-chik wi-gai-nee-na-met-nick elk-keel-nees-kaam B-bik chic-toc-in el-wa-wool-ti-jeck. Mel-kee-nin mnach win-chee^gul mook-ta-gaa-lin hees-e-na waam- kil win-chce-guki ko qui-ak too-ack-too-in. — Quebec Vertion. The LorcPe Prayer in the Melicete Language. Mo-tox-sen-aa spum-keek ay-e-en saga-mow-eo tol-mox-se'en tel-e-wee-so-teek. Cheeptookee wee- oheo-u leek spum-keektaun e-too-cheesauk-too leek snum-a kay-e'en. Too-eep-nankna-meen kes-e kees- Hknh-keel wek-a guleek el-me-kees-kaak keel-mets- min a-woolee. Ma-hate-inoo-in ka-t«e a-lee-wa-nay- ool-te-ek el mas we-che-a keel mecoke-may-keel ne- ma-hate-hum-too-mooin. Each tribe has laws peculiar to itself, but a grand council is held annually at Pleasant Point, on the St. Croix river, of chiefs and delegates of the Penobscots, Mic-Macs, and Mclicetes, where friendly relations are re- newed; regulations to prevent collision in in hunting and fishing established; and measures for the general weal discussed and j adopted. They say that the " Great Spirit" | lias permitted the " pale faces" to come | into the country to kill the game, catch fish, and cut down trees, but that they are the lords of the soil, and the rightful owners of tho land, the water, and the sky. Their belief in a resurrection is manifested by their burying with the dead the implements and trinkets he used on earth, and which, they believe, he will require in another world. | The early European settlers in the province ^ were composed of American loyalists, who, exiled themselves from their native country, in order to remain subjects of the crown of Britain. In 1783, 3,000 of these merito- rious people arrived at St. John's from Nan- tucket, and joined a few families, who had migrated from New England in 1762, and settled at Maugerville, on the St. John's ' T*: 1 ■'I fii 254 POPULATION OF NEW BRUNSWICK SINCE 1783. river. These were joined by others, and by disbanded soldiers from pro\'incial regiments, and subsequently by emigrants from Europe and by some Acadians. The hardships en- dured by the early inhabitants were very great — famine and cold caused much misciy, but the energies of the Anglo-Saxon race carried them through all difficulties, until, in the language of Dr. Gesner, they have " finally covered the banks of the noble St. John with rich fields, villages, and cities." The population has thus increased since 1783— 1783 .... 11,457 1824 .... 74,176 1803 .... 27,000 1834 .... 119,437 1817 .... 35,000 1840 .... 166,162 The estimated population of New Unins- wick at the beginning of 1848, was 208,012, I distributed as follows : — County of Risti- i gouche, 4,214; Gloucester, 10,334; Nor-' thumberland, 19,493; Kent, 9,769; West- | moreland, and Albert, 23,581 ; King's, 19,285; St. John, 43,942; Queen's, 10,970 ; Sunbury, 5,680; York, 18,660; Carleton, 17,841; Charlotte, 24,237. Between 1834 and 18't8, in the space of 14 years, the popu- lation has been nearly doubled; not, how- ever, by births only, but also by emigration. Yet there is abundant room, and, indeed, great lack of fresh settlers, for there art nearly 80 acres of area to each mouth in the province. '"omparalive Statements of the Increase of the Population since the Year 1824. Countiet Total of persons ill tlio year 1824, York . . Saint John . King'i . Queen's Sunbury Westmoreland Northumberland Charlotte Grand Total in 1824 74,176 10,972 12,907 7,930 4,741 3,-227 9.303 15,829 9,267 Counties. York . . . . Carleton Saint John . King's Queen's Sunbui-y Westmoreland Northumberland Kent . Qloucester . Charlotte Grand Total in 1834 The paucity of inhabitants in some coun- ties is remarkable: in Ristigouche there were in 1840, four hundred acres of area to each inhabitant; in Northumberland, two hundred and three; in York, one hundred and sixty-four; in Kent, one hundred and thirty-eight ; and in Gloucester, one hundred and thirty-five. New Brunswick might, with ease, sustain ten times its present population. The society at St. John's and Fredericton is composed of the civil and military servants of the crown, professional men, and mer- chants, who constitute the basis of colonial society in all our settlements ; and are dis- tinguished by the courtesy and intelligence which mark the same class in England. In the middle and lower classes, the habits and manners of the United States predominate ; but all classes unite in loyalty to their sove- reign, and attachment to the parent state. The number of charitable institutions — the cflbrts made for the diffusion of instruction — and the attention paid to the ordinances of religion, indicate the benevolence and piety of the people. The women of New Brunswick are gene- Total of persona in the year 1834 10,478 ) 9,493 I 20,668 12,195 7,204 3338 14,205 11,170) 6,031 } 8,323j 15,852 119,467 g ,3 8,999 7,761 4,265 2,463 611 4,902 9,696 6,685 45,281 Counties. TotiU of persons in the year 1840. York . . . Carleton Saint John , . King's . . . Queen's Sunbury . . Westmoreland Northumberland Kent . Gloucester . Bistigouche Charlotte . Grand Total in 1840 i:i,9i)5 13,381 32,957 14,464 8,232 4,260 17,686 14,620 7,477 7,751-1 3,161/ 18,178 156,162 36,70o Time of Meeting. Timcof Dissohition. 17SG . . 3rd Jnn. 1792 . 7th Bee. 1793 . . 12th Feb. 1795 . 24th Dec. 179G . . 9th Feb. 1802 . lOlh May 1803 . . 9th Feb. 1809 . 11th July 1810 . . 27th Jnn. 1816 . 20th July 1R17 . . 4 th Feb. 1819 . 24th March 1820 . . 2nd Feb. 1820 . loth Moy l>S2i . . 13th Jan. 1827 . 24th May 1828 . . nth Feb. 1830 . 13th Sept. 1831 . . 7th Jnn. 1834 . 7th Nov. 1833 . . 20th Jnn. 1837 . 18th Aug. 1837 . . 29tb Dec. 1842 . 1st Dec. 1843 . . 31st Jnn. 1846 . 16th Sept. 1847 . . 28th Jon. 3,517 3,888 12,289 2,209 i 1,028 422 3,481 ' 3,450 1,416 2,689 2,326 rally handsome, and of a fair complexion ; i the higher class are well educated, and often highly accomplished. Form of Government. — Similar to that of Canada and Nova Scotia. The affairs of the province are administered, for the sovereign, by a lieutenant-governor, aided by an executive council, consisting of 8 members ; a legisla- tive council of 17 members; and a House of Assembly of 39 representatives of the people, i The different Assemblies or Parliaments of New Brunswick have been as follows : — w Bmns- 20H,012, ' I of Bisti- : 1, ; Nor- ! 9; West- ! King's, 9, 10,970 ; Carleton, recn 1831 the popu- . uot, how- migration, id, indeed, j there art )uth in the i:!,995 1»,381 a2,9S7 14,4G4 8,232 4,2()0 17,686 14,620 7,477 7,761V 3,161/ 18,178 3,517 3,888 12,289 2,209 1,028 422 3,481 3,4o0 1,446 2,589 2,326 156,102 36,70o complexion ; I ed, and often ar to that of affairs of the he sovereign, y an executive rs; alegisla- id a House of of the people. • Parliaments IS follows:— of Dissolution. 7th llec. I 24th Dec. 10th May ' nth July 20th July 24th March loth May 24th May 13th Sept. , 7th Nov. . 18lh Aug. . 1st Dec. . 16th Sept. - .. — . . — , ., CENSUS OF NEW BRUNSWICK IN 1810. 255 1 Population of the Province of New Brunswick in the year 1810, according to the lateit Census taken by Hireo- tion of the Provincial Leyitlalure. i ■i^ Wliitcs. People of Colour. IMiioos of Worship. "g S i-t to «£ i 1 '■ '""t City, County, or Diitrict. o to s ^ j; «i to '^ I 1 1 . '■% i ^1 „ a 1 > 1 1 a 1 1 1 1 Total of Pen Church of i.: Presbyterian Methodist. o 1 •1'' •^ 3 "^ 1 HH S 1 Px & s ■a ^ s •a •: a ^ O Acres. Voek:— Fredericton, City .... 489 1,061 829 1,166 798 28 43 48 2 9 4,002 2 I 1 1 1 1,696 Saint Mary .... 318 610 630 469 623 3 3 3 1 2,158 2 2 2 6,117 Douglas . ... 424 656 650 695 634 30 22 30 1 3 2,630 2 1 2 2 9,038 Kingsclear 262 464 410 386 417 25 29 36 2 6 1,792 1 1 1 11,997 Queenabury . .... 162 306 279 264 245 12 15 20 1 3 1,144 1 2 7,007 Prince WiUiam 149 256 254 193 213 6 4 7 1 942 1 1 8,320 Southampton .... 86 167 146 120 142 576 1 2,241 Dumfries .... 116 219 188 168 187 762 1 « 3,402 Cahlbton : — . Woodstock 482 906 768 769 745 3 2 2 1 3,186 3 1 1 1 9,767 Northampton .... 76 136 138 124 109 1 608 1,770 Kent . .... 61 122 133 88 117 6 3 2 2 473 2,008 Brighton 170 305 337 264 294 1,200 1 2 4342 Perth 64 105 86 74 95 2 362 1,283 WioUow 116 208 180 168 188 744 2,500 Wakofleld 330 612 651 511 659 8 6 6 5 2^58 2 3 6,650 Andover 87 184 147 119 137 687 1 1 2,613 Madawaska 642 976 1,000 862 1,034 2 3,963 3 18,600 Saint John : — City of Saint John— North District 700 2,643 1,982 2,920 1,890 20 10 37 14 9,516 2 1 1 111 „ South District 718 2,440 2,079 2,784 2,137 73 66 121 ( 55 9,765 1 I 10 2 Parish of Portland 465 1,783 1,322 1325 1,239 11 7 16 5 6,207 2 1 1 1 1,071 „ Carleton 158 387 327 369 327 4 10 7 4 1,435 1 2 90 „ Lancaster 219 426 381 357 361 24 21 25 17 1,602 1 1 COO 4,446 „ Saint Martin's 264 640 465 438 460 1,973 1 1 4,635 „ Simonds— North District 211 345 291 276 253 30 16 46 17 1,274 2 1 6311 „ „ South District 176 359 221 254 239 21 28 30 23 1,185 1 3,681 Kino'b : — i Kingston .... Sussex 303 645 467 620 465 6 6 8 4 2,009 2 1 1 7,516 I 342 692 613 622 506 17 12 11 5 2,178 1 1 1 10,900 i Hampton 278 655 478 476 445 10 4 4 2,072 2 1 1 8,914 1 Norton 159 295 242 256 190 10 9 9 6 1,017 1 1 1 1 1 6,101 i Westflold 228 402 454 377 41C 6 3 4 1,661 1 1 1 6,298 Springfield 268 426 438 419 423 7 8 4 8 1,733 1 1 1 2 9,518 Greenwich 160 287 255 291 236 2 4 2 3 1,080 1 1 6,4.50 Studholm 305 685 550 441 409 1 1 1 1,988 1 1 2 12394 1 Upham 135 69 250 188 217 1 1 720 1 1 2 3302 1 Queen's : — i Oagetown 1 Canning ! Wickham 117 234 192 229 186 6 1 y 8 805 1 1 1 3325 120 265 213 236 238 952 1 1 2 33O6 168 ,306 314 263 318 1,201 2 1 8392 TVaterborough .... 172 354 302 325 322 8 8 4 6 1,329 1 2 7,774 Brunswick 33 62 67 63 48 220 964 Hompstcad 1 ' Johnston 131 233 191 190 229 8 11 8 9 879 1 2 6,799 155 294 214 243 279 1,030 1 6,710 ] Fetersville 140 222 232 188 214 8.56 1 1 4,459 Chipman 132 246 239 181 227 1 3 2 2 900 C 1310 ■ SUNBURT: — MaugerTille ... Sheffield 79 14.5 129 146 135 1 5.56 1 1 2,20.1 140 305 276 254 290 4 2 4 1 1,134 1 1 3,234 Burton ... 1.57 325 304 264 219 2 1,144 1 C 1 3,101 i Lincoln 78 156 162 13S 136 6 C 1 593 C 238S) BlissTillo lis 235 221 18E 191 C 833 C 2 1,133 \ Webtmoeeiand :— ; Dorchester 417 75C 80.= 77C 73b ( 1 1 2 3,007 1 1 1 17,207 \ 1 Sackville 32s: 66S 67S 681 63- 5 1 3 1 2,306 1 .' 1 16321 j Westmoreland .... ise Ui 34( 33? 36' 1 li 6 17 1,436 1 1 S 1 10,029 ! i Botsford . ... 26; 436 46C 40( 1 45J t ( 5 1 1,767 1 1 2 10390 i Shediao 27f 46r 514 42f i 49f i ( ) i , 1 6 1,909 1 ( ) 1 6,479 Moncton 20V 391 414 33< ) 38. ) ( ) ( ) 1,529 ( ) 1 1 7,076 SalisbuTT . . , . Coverdolo . ... 215 37f 30f 3.3, ! 34- I ( ) ( ) 1,420 3 7,4.51 sr 16- 16( 16- I 13( 1 * ! ( ) 2 625 6,110 HiUsboTough. . . . Hopewell • • 14. ) 26; ! 261 24 5 28 L ( ) ( ) 1,032 1 6,623 13i ! 25< ) 28! i 23 ) 24. t ) 01 1,021 14 6,722 1 Hiirvey 1 21f i 36( ) 40. ) 33 ) 37 1 ) 1,488 ) 2 1 7,003 I n ill 2G6 PLACES OF WORSHIP, LAND CLEAUED, &.c. Population of tite Province of New Orunitcick in th* year 1840, aeeordtiig to the tuletl Cvimiia lii/un hy ilii i tion of the Provincial Legiilature — (cuiitimieJ.) rr 1 .^ii-t;r4! \ ] ■'■'■'• Whites. People Colour. r PlllCOS lit WatMiK •s 1 1 ' I ^ . *"! , ' .._l • ) !■ t. ; . 1 ' 1 ■6 1 ( Itj, Countjr, or Di^triet. 1 to 1^ s .— (O to i B 3 a- 1 j » 1 1 s, 1 u .2 Si ■s i >i i 1 1 r 1 1 1 [^ 1 1 a •73 1 fu 1 k Pm c a. 1 Acrt-'H KoHTHUIlnBBLAND: — Newcastle 404 833 679 720 770 2 3,013 1 1 2,000 Chatham 441 1,118 7C8 862 740 4 1 1 3,503 2 2 1 1 3,660 Ludlow 81 208 11:? 131 147 1 600 1 1,626 Northeak 220 422 394 330 430 1 1,677 1 1 3,103 Alnwick 138 288 2.39 243 257 1,027 2 3 2,011 Blimfield 08 182 13G 106 122 645 2,3,33 Blockvillo 106 416 347 263 330 2 1,.367 1 1 1 1 3,048 Olenclg %r( 308 297 272 288 1,3.51 1 2 1 3,828 Nelson .... 2«3 601 4i6 3U2 367 2 1,648 1 1 3,624 Kbkt :— Richibueto .... 316 682 606 488 611 1 2,088 1 1 2 2 4,603 Carleton 220 638 413 840 363 1,644 1 1 3 3,735 Wellington 237 477 202 374 .390 1,462 1 1 4,829 Dundai 170 281 322 250 300 1 1,16;-. 2 3,182 Weldford 192 311 289 224 304 1 1 1,130 1 1 1 4,101 Huskiuon, (without population) . , . , , , . . . . , , Harcourt » , , , , . , , , , , , , , , Ol.OUCB«TBa . — Saumarea 226 368 43- 410 389 1,691 (1 I 2 1,776 Caraquet . ... Now Bandon .... 200 616 561 !5(i 6.'1S 2,075 3 8,256 112 174 IOC MS 13E 700 1 2,'i70 Bcroaford 166 292 324 283 .315 G 1,214 2 \fi.',h Bathurst . ... 291 694 491 476 610 2,171 1 1 1 1 2,822 R18T100VCUE:— Uolhouue . . . . 136 486 233 186 181 4 1 2 2 1,095 1 2,1 OS Addington , ... 121 264 190 173 193 2 1 1 814 1 u 832 Durham 86 164 140 108 130 636 1,0.,. Colbome 70 140 133 109 118 500 1 1 M'.M Eldon . . ... 8 201 6 6 6 216 27 Chaulottb :— Saint Andrew's .... 609 912 924 956 817 8 13 17 6 3,682 1 1 1 1 1 6;:00 Saint Stephen's .... 496 932 816 864 794 3,405 3 1 3 1 4,225 Saint Darid .... 171 406 410 391 403 1,600 1 1 1 1 4,886 Saint Qeorge .... 363 600 669 631 6:4 3 5 2,422 1 1 c 2 1 4,oy; Saint Patrick . . . . 294 613 637 411 652 2,013 1 1 1 1 1 6,2(.(i Saint James . . . . 179 327 290 282 256 1,166 1 I c 4,4!,y Pennfleld 168 286 206 233 200 1,043 1 c 1 2,2:5 Grand Manan .... 164 2.09 273 238 233 1,003 1 1 2,671 West Isles 178 226 308 287 304 1 2 1,12,'- 2 1,007 Campo Bello .... 111 170 187 180 173 718 1 c 1,000 Summary:— County of York . . . . 2,006 3,747 3,294 3,341 3,158 101 116 143 92 13,906 10 2 6 10 2 1 44,818 „ Carleton 1,917 3,653 3,620 2,979 3,27^ 22 U 10 8 13,381 3 1 2 4 4 5 49,053 „ Saint John . 2,806 8,993 7,07fc 9,223 6,896 183 158 281 145 32,967 8 2 6 4 4 6 19,134 King's . . . 2,178 3,856 3,637 3,490 3,307 58 43 43 30 14,464 u 3 b 12 2 69,452 „ Queen's 1,168 2,216 1,054 1,908 2,061 23 23 23 26 8,232 6 1 7 2 4 43,080 „ Sunbury . 673 1,166 1,094 986 1,001 4 3 6 3 4,260 2 1 1 1 3 12,262 „ Westmorland 2,467 4,486 4,600 4,170 4,360 15 18 14 23 17,686 4 2 11 13 6 99,022 „ Northumberland . 2,037 4,360 3,398 3,228 3,500 li 1 2 14,620 4 9 2 2 8 1 25,323 Kent .... 1,110 2,189 1,732 1,676 1,876 1 1 2 7,477 2 3 4 C 9 20,413 „ Gloucester . 1,086 2,034 2,003 1,77K 1,941 7,761 1 1 1 11,(81 „ Ristigouche „ Charlotte . 462 1,235 706 681 627 2 2 3 3,161 [• C C 1 6,579 2,622 4,637 4,678 4,473 4,436 12 13 24 549 T 6 18,17f 11 6 t 11 b 61 4 51 9 36,135 Total . . 20,514 l,_ »:. 42,470 l7!fl93 37387 36,601 439 it. _ 389 334 166,162 61 21 436,861 there are in the Pariiih of Douglas three Oat Mills. County of Carleton — There is in the Parish of Northampton one Oat Mill not included in the above return. County of Wettmoreland—I'he Parish of Dorchcatcr has three firet-rate Oat Mills, Of the estimated quantity of cleared land, 4,891 acres are dyked marsh. The Parish of Sackville— of the esti- mated ,quantity of cleared land 765 acres are dyked marsh. The Parish of Moncton — of the estimated quantity of cleared land, 1^34 acres are dyked marsh. County of liiati^o nche — No return has been made of the Population of the Lumber- ing Districts, or of a very large portion of the labouring class in this county, wj.ich may be safely estimated at from 1,200 to 1,600 Males above 18 years of age, Cotavty of Charlotte — Nearly 200 or the Male Population of the parish of SVcsl lales were at sen at the time of taking the census, and are consequeutly not iududed in the above icturu. M b.y dii I-!-- iia — 1 2,000 3,60U l,6i:6 3,103 2,011 2,3;)3 3,0'18 8,828 3,624 1 1 2 II 44,P1S 49,SiS:! 6 19,1 ;il C9,1.V2 43,08fl 12,2(a 99,0'; ■ 25,323 20,413 ll,thl ol 6,579 9 36,135 llleilM 211436,861 a U uot included 1 Nottlmmpton one three flrst-iate Oat ckviUe-»f lh« t«'>: quantity of cleared tion of the Lumber- mated at from MOO the parish of \Vist MILITARY, JUDICIAL, AND ECCLESIASTICAL DEPARTMENTS. Military Defencet. — An excellent militia, consisting of a regiment of yeomanry cavalry, of 10 complete troops stationed in different counties; 3 separate troops of cavalry j a regiment of artillery, with a lieutenant- colonel, 2 majors, 9 captains, 8 first and 7 second lieutenants and staff ; 18 regiments of militia divided into battalions, and including light infantry and rifle corps. The militia commissions comprise 63 field officers, 380 captains, 78fi subalterns, 120 staff, 1,030 ser- geants, GOdrummers, and 27,200 rank and file. The militia, by the military act of 17th March, 1825, are liable to be called out three days in each year — one for general muster, and two for company drill. They were only called out one day in 1848. The organization of the militia is complete, and a number of volunteer companies at St. John, Fredericton, and other places, are armed and trained. The sports of the country have made many of the militia excellent marks- men, and, as in Canada, they would be for- midable adversaries to an invader. The annual expenses of the militia are — salary of adjutant-general, £85; quarter- master-general, £150; to each adjutant, £15 (£510) ; and £7 10». to each sergeant- major {dE250) ; total, £1,000. The military posi are — I New Brunswick Military Posts. St John . Fredericton Kt. Andrew's Pegelc llarrack i f.ir — Olflccrs. 14 20 Men. 0.12 4a» 104 The pecuniary allowances, expense for ra- tions, quarters, or other advantages, are provided by the colony. There is a bounty of £5 allowed by the Provincial Legislature for the apprehension of deserters from her majesty's forces, provided the amount do not exceed £100 per annum. The Judicial Department comprises a Su- preme Court, with a chief and three puisne judges; a court of Chancery, one of mar- riage and divorce, and one for the trial of offences committed at sea — over these three courts the lieutenant-governor presides; a court of vice-admiralty, and one of pro- bate. There are commissioners of bankrupts' estates. The " Barristers' Society" numbers 57 members; the roll of barristers and at- torneys in 1849 contained 155 names. In British America both branches of the law are practised by the same individual. Ecclesiastical Department in 1849. Denomination. Church of England in 1847 . < Church of Rome in 1846 . . / Church of Scodand in 1847 . Wesleyan Methodists in 1847 / Baptists in 1846 Number of Clergy. 1 Bishop . . 1 Archdeacon 33 Rectors . . 8 Curates . . 1 Bishop . . 24 Priests . . 8 Ministers . 21 Ministers . 33 Local Preachers 41 Ministers . . i ^Sf ^1 o.S S 1-3 1 ' 61 ■ . ■ ■ 17,920 IJnknown. 20 1 60 27 , , , 37,000 32,;}00 28 , , , , 11,980 8,980 7 • • 57 119 • } 22,500 • ■ 65 • • 26,000 19,290 21 14 There are also about 13 ministers of the Presbyterian church in New Brunswick, aud of the Reformed Presbyterian church ; and there are 4 Congregational ministers. There is a Church and an Auxiliary Bible Society. The protestant diocese of Fredericton was created in 1845. The clergy of the Estab- lished Church derive their principal support from the " Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts." The livings dre from £200 to £300 currency. There are about 90 parishes and 60 churches, capable of holding 20,000 persons. Dr. VOL. I. Gesner says, that double the number of clergymen of the Established Church could be advantageously employed. The Roman Catholic diocese includes Prince Edward Island. The Roman Catholics are principally I the Irish and Acadians ; their clergy arc supported by subscriptions, fees, pew-i'cnts, j and tithes. The Presbyterian church was established by ministers sent from Scot- land in 1817 ; they have churches in different counties, and with large congrega- tions. The Wesleyans are a numerous and rr yiictable body. Their ministers are paid 2l i: m'i * - 1 a 258 EDUCATION, THE PRESS, AND CRIME— NEW HRUNSWICK. as biphly as those of tho Established Church, according to their bciiiR nmrricd or unmar- ried, to the number of tlunr children, and to their length of service in the ministry. Tlie Baptists arc divided into several sects, but they arc generally serious and well- conducted. Their established faith is con- tained in 17 articles, and they meet annually to adopt regulations for the preservation of harmony. "Camp meetings" arc occasionally held in New Brunswick, and on the United States frontier. Education is carefully and judiciously extended. The university of King's College, at Fredericton, established in 1828, by Sir Howard Douglas, has for its patron the Qutcn, and is well supplied vith professors in different branches of literature and sci- ence. For superior degrees, the terms and exercises correspond with those of the Eng- lish universities. The religious exercises arc those of the Church of England, and c.'indidates for degrees in divinity are re- quired to subscribe to the Thirty-nine Arti- cles of the church. The college is endowed with 6,000 acres of valuable land, near Fredericton, has a grant from the crown of j61,000 sterling per annum, and £1,000 from the Provincial Legislature. Scholar- ships of j620 and £25 have been founded, and arc given to students of merit. The expense of tuition and board is about £35 currency per annum. Candidates for matri- culation arc required to bo acquainted with the Latin and Greek languages, and the rudi- ments of algebra and geometry. The in- struction is devoted to the classics, mathe- matics, natural philosophy, chemistry, natural history, intellectual philosophy, logic, and the evidences of religion, natural and re- vealed; moral philosophy, general history, Hebrew, theology, and French. Tlie aca- demical year has four terms ; and four years are required for the degree of Bachelor of Arts. There is no distinction in reference to religious profession, age, or otherwise. There is a collegiate school at Fredericton, which educates boys preparatory to matri- culation. Tlic Wesleyans and Baptists have each a superior academy for instruction. There are grammar and parish schools in each county : the supervision of the former is vested in a board of trustees, appointed by the lieutenant-governor and couueil, and the general management of the latter is, by an act of the House of Assembly QO Vict., cb. ;■)()), vested in the licutonaiit-jtovcnuir and council, as aboard of educiitidii. Nine schools is the average number permitted to be established for each parish ; but the number may be increased to thirteen, pro- vided thn whole number in the county to which the parish belongs does not exceed the established average. Tho government allowance to teachers in the parish schools is, per aninim, .€30 first class, £22 second class, and £IH third class. The emoluments of the teachers, exclusive of the government allowance, range from £20 to JBIOO per annum. Piihliv Sdioolt in New Uinmitick. Oram. School* r.irish Schools. 1 in Si Teachers. Scholar!. ■^J Countioi. 1 -s'i 1 1. *■• M. F. York .... 11 944 S41 1786 St. John . . . I m ■in ■■>M 1660 900 2.510 Chnrlotto . . 1 ra «!> 14 26 1208 920 2132 1 .10 U :;0 14 1090 8.36 1931 (Jucin's . . . 1 \r, 47 13 4 Gfil 610 1171 Suiilmry . . . 1 .■in 2.5 17 H ;iS2 334 716 Cnrlfton . . . 1 .11 US SO 6 418 338 766 Kistif^nucho . . 1 38 13 10 8 150 141 291 Oloilt'CStcT . . 1 72 24 14 lU 324 3;t6 mi Northumberland ?, 6S 40 V 1080 861 1947 Kent .... ;« 2'J ti 473 376 860 Westmoreland . _ 71 68 16 1061 900 1961 Albert .... 1 42 27 18 •J 380 323 70!) Total . . U ■ISO S71 44.5 128 9737 7080 17903 Tfu-. j'reis. — There are eight printing- offices, whence issue eight newspapers, con- ducted with ability; but occasionally, as may be supposed, with considerable party acrimony. The New Brunswick Courier, and Royal Gazette, contain much valuable local and statistical information. All the towns have libraries, more or less extensive. The iVtw lirumwick Almanack and Register, pre- pared under the superintendence of the Fredericton Athenajum, is one of the fullest and most complete publications of the kind in the British empire. Music and dra^ving are cultivated to a certain degree ; and there are occasionally lectures on astronomy, che- mistry, elocution, and the belles-lettres. In St. John's, St. Andrew's, and Fredericton, there are public reading-rooms, where all the leading British and foreign newspapers and pcriodicalii are regularly received. CiiiME. — The number oi felons, in 1848, in prison, was — of tried, whites, males, 31 ; females, 2: blacks, males, 2; females, 1. Untried — whites, males, 5; females,!: blacts, males, 1. Misdemeanors — tried — whites, males, 32; females, 14: blacks, n, ales, 2; fe- males, 2. Untried — white8,malcs,4; females, nittcd to })Ht the •en, pro- ouiity to (t exceed vernment schools is, ond class, imcnts of ivcniment £100 per 737 7080 17U03 it printing- ipapcrs, con- isionally, as erablc party Courier, and aluahle local .11 the towns j cnsive. The Register, pre- i ence of tlie of the fullest of the kind and drawng Ec; and there ;ronomy, chc- !s-lcttres. In Fredericton, , where all the jwspapcrs and cd. ■Ions, in 184«, ;8, males, 31 ; ; females, 1. ales,l: hlacks, 0 24 1S40 . . 48 91 72 40 IHll . . (i8 10 108 5-1 1812 . . 43 '.11 97 52 1813 . . 47 ,-/2 99 50 1811 . . 60 M 110 09 1815 . . 50 (i9 119 94 1840 . . 62 74 130 78 260 CHAPTER IV. BEVENUK AND EXPENDITURE, TAUIFF OF DUTIES, BANKS AND COINS, COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS, STAPLE PRODUCTS, AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, AND FISHERIES, BANKS, MONIES, PRICES OF COMMODITIES, WAGES OF LABOUR, &c. Revenue. — In 1727, the public income of the province won, in round numbers, JE7 12 ; in 1789, £Ora; in 1794, £1,509; in 1803, £3,731; in 1811, £25,878; in 1827, £34,000; in 1837, £60,000; and in 1847, £127,000. Estimating the permanent re- venue at £120,(XX), and the present popula- tion at 220,000, tlie taxation is not much more than 10«. per head annually. Comparative Statement iift/ie Revenue of New liruiii- tt'ifk, ami the lourcea tchence derived, in the yeart 18-10 and 1847. Sources of Uuvtnui'. 1H46. 1847. Ordinary revenue Export duty Received from customs . . Casual revenue Loan fund Supreme court fees . . . Auction dues Pedlars' licences .... Emigrnnt duties .... LiKht-houso ditto .... Sick and disbanded seamen . 47,774 22,664 30,961 7,600 8,281 454 407 45 2,129 4,817 2,230 50,287 10,553 31,912 9,500 9,571 792 240 27 3,250 3,700 1,500 Total (less shillings and pence) £127,326 127,410 In 1848, there was a considerable diminution in the revenue of the province, owing to commercial embarrassment, and especially to the depression in the timber and deal trade. The debt of the province is about £80,000. The emigrant tax is levied at the rate of 5*. per head, and appropriated to the benefit of all immigrants. The custom du- ties are levied under the authority of a Revenue Act, passed in New Rrunswick, 30th March, 1848, which imposes a tariff of discriminating duties, in favour of liritish and colonial produce, growth or manufacture, .compared with foreign. This tariff was adopted after tlie " free import " system of England was enforced, and indicates the (k'sirc of the colonists to view England as the parent state. In Canada and Nova Scotia no distinction has been made in the duties levied, on British, and on foreign products. [See Canada Tariff, vol. 1, p, 145.] It will be seen by the following tabic, that the discriminating duties arc as high as 100, 200, and 300 per cent, infavour of England : — Tariff of Dutiea in the Province nf New bruniicick, under the Jievenue /4'*,paued 'Mth March, 1848. Ai'tleki lubjcct to Uuty. Speciyic. Applet, per buahcl Ilutter, per cwt CuiiiUea of all kiuds, exeopt ipcrm and wax, per lb. . . . Sperm and wax, per lb. ... (little of all kinds over one year old Clieeiie, per \svt, Clocks or clock coses of all kinds, each Coffee, per lb. I'ish of foreign taking or curing, dried or salted, per cwt. Pickled, per barrel Fruit, dried, per ewt Horses, mares, and geldings, each I.euthcr, 6irits and cordials, viz. :— Drondy, per gallon .... Rum ana other spirits, and oordiols : For every gallon of such rum or other ■piriti or cordiols of any strength, under and not exceeding the strength of proof of 2R by the bubble And for every bubble below 26 in number, an additional, per gol. Lemon syrup, per gal. Sugor, reflned, in loaves, per lb. . „ refined, erushed, per cwt. . „ of all kinds, except refined and crushed, per cwt. Tea, per lb Tobacco, manufactured, except Snuff and cigars, per lb Wines, per gallon . ... Wheat flour, per barrel Ad-valorem. On the following articles, for cverv one hundred pounds of the true and real value thereof, videlicet ; Boots, shoes, ond other loother monu- factures . . Carria;;es, waggons, sleighs, and otiici vehicles On Bri. tish and Colonial produce, growth, ornmnu. facture. On Fo reisn produce, growth, or ninnu- factuie. £ ». (/ U G 4 6 1 n 3 U fi 1 Free. Free. 5 K ». d. U U 6 1) Ij Ij 1 2 6 2 6 3 4 2 2 6 1 30 1 2 1 I 5 2 6 2 1 3 1 1» 4 6 15 li 2 5 7 6 2 3 2 3 60 06 6 3 6 03 30 1 I 02 1 » 10 60 2 I 30 2 4 30 4 130 MMERCE, IIK.S, AND HOUR, &c. tabic, that gh as 100, Ingland: — 5 hrunneick, (arch, 1H48. On V'o roign produi'O, growth, iif luiinu- facturt. Free. Free. 60 1 3 30 10 1 » 2 6 2 60 02 4 IsO 1 U TARIFF OF NEW BRUNSWICK. UOVKRNMliNT EXl'KNDITURE. 2tJl Artioln (ubjoct to Duly. Chain, and Drtpnrnrl partii cif nr fur chain; dork whci'li, marhinurv, and mitUriuU for oldoki; houwhiilil I'ur- iiitup' (t'Kfi-pt tho property of paii- Hoiigirt imd rmiKruntA, for lhi>ir own uiu, iitui II 't inlrniled for aalo), liiok- iiii(-vlAJ**'< ; oruitKO and temons ; whale oil letcout tho return cari^iH-i of veHcU fltted out for Hi)hini< voy- af 20,318 11,461 1,000 816 875 1,337 1,360 1,230 320 41 6,123 12,122 2,621 b33 438 2,680 8,106 3,800 1,426 784 76 In 1837, the New Brunswick Lepslative Assembly sent two delegates to England to represent that the colonists had not sufficient control over the levying and disbursement of provincial taxes. The crown thereupon re- linquished its rights entirely, in consideration of a fixed civil list, of £14,500 currency per an. being guaranteed. Since then, the colonists complain that the British government gave up some of their best timber districts to the United States, under the provisions of the "Ashburton treaty," in 1812, for which deprivation they consider they ought to have received compensation. As the population of the province increases, the amount of the civil list (which is really not large) will be more easily borne by the colonists. Poor-rates are in general moderate throughout the province; county rates are occasionally levied for local purposes, and there is a statute labour for the roads, commuted on n graduated scale of property, trade, or official income. The three days' annual service for the militia, i'i'r 262 BANKS, PAPER MONEY, COINS, AND COMPANIES. required of all moles between 16 and 45 years of a^c, is, in the event of non-atten- dance, compensated by a fine of 10*. for each day's absence. Banks. — The province possesses several monetary institutions. The Bank of New Bruimwiok liiw a canitnl of £100,000; Com- mercial Bunk of Ndw Brunswick, capital, jeir)0,(KK)j (Viitml Bank of New Brunswick, capital, .i'.H5,()()0 ; St. Stcnhcii's Bank, capi- tal, .£25,000 ; Uranch of the Bank of British North Aiiu'ricii, ca|iital, .i;i,(XX),000. Position of tho Public Banks. Liabilities :— Capital stock paid in BiUg in circulation Balance due other banks . . . Cash deposited not bearing interest Cash deposited bearing interest Profits m hand Total Resoukces : — Gold, silver, and other coined metals Bills of other provincial banks . . ■Halance due from other banks . . Debt* due, including notes, bills •> of exchange, &c / Real estate Total (less shillings and pence) , Control Bank of Now Brunswick. £ ari.ooo 42,247 675 20,700 482 7,828 112,922 £ 4,047 868 3,910 102,728 1,307 112,d22 Commercial iSiiiik of Now Urunawlck. £ 180,(100 72,27!) 1U,02H 18,727 17,300 288,174 £ 12,300 8,882 28,181 229,078 8,703 288,174 Ditiik iif Ntiw Bruniiwluk, £ 100,0(111 48,71(1 40,817 102,31 1 £ 20,8110 0,383 18,278 143,530 3,82'J 102,311 Ohnrliitto Uniik, 0.20H 311 21,010 1.002 31,018 £ 1,783 1,311 31.074 St. Stcplicn's Bunk. £ 25,0(M) 18,000 3,735 6,380 2,866 62,847 £ 4,0.10 177 141 45,089 720 31,048 62,847 TotaU. £ 310,000 183,440 24,670 112,750 17,842 17,399 008,018 £ 42,825 17,021 82,081 622,231 14,404 679,162 Coin. — ^The amount in circulation not ascertained. Paper money consists of the notes of the banks of New Brunswick, British North America, Central, St. Stephen's, and Char- lotte County. The total amount in circula- tion, in 1848, about ^£198,000. Sir W. M. G. Colebrooke, C.B., governor of New Brunswick, in a report to Earl Grey of 8th April, 1848, speaking generally of the North American Colonies, says: — " It is much to be regretted that a general revision of the monetary system of the colonies should not have been effected by Parliament. The coiitinunntu of nominal currencies, having reference to no acknow- ledged standard, and originating in the English deno- minations given to Spunish corns no longer current, but which circulate'' ''' >he colonies on tliuir lirst settlement, is an anomaly which was corrected in the United States after their separation by establishing a dollar currency, divisible into cents. The estoblisli- ment of British sterling as the money of account, ns a general measure, would be attended with great advantage to the commercial classes, and tend to simplify transactions with the United Kingdom and iilso with the United States. It may be objoctinnable tn make gold the standard of the colonies, where silver for the most part circulates ; and by a slight alteration in ilie value of the halfpenny to the l-20tli ])art of a shil- ling, l-50th of a half-crown, and 1-lOOth of a crown- l)icce, calculations would bo a.s much facilitated as they are in the United States, by the substitution of dollars and cents. The difl'erence between tho pro- vincial currency and sterling is 11 l-9th per cent. The nnioiiMt nf bank pn]icr In circulation in 1845 is returned at i!228,0OO currency. The amount returned In 1840 niid 1811 was £360,000. In 1842, owing to coromorelnl I'mtinrrnssmunt and the decline of credit. It fell to i;U(l,IH)0, in 1843 to £72,000, and 1844 the amount wnn £80,(HI0. " Thu Imiikinu system In the province is not on a ■atlafuetorv foiitliiu ) and it is to be regretted that the prnpiiaal for t>iitiil)llitliitig n provincial bank was not onturtoliied liv tllu Loginlaturo, and that none of the banks now twlnlilishud, atrord any accommodation to tho agl'loulllirnl olnsson. As licfure observed, farmers, unalilo to (iliUiln cash crpdits or other advances, have not only tiocil rtiKlrleted in extending their opera- tions di'puMdlilg (lit hired labour, but m remote dis- tricts are ilUdoiiriigi'il from seeking markets for their produce, vihvn they arc ollon reduced to barter." Tliort! (iro »(!vcriil joint-stock companies — St. Jolin'M Wiitiu* company, capital £20,000; St, JoIiu'h Giw lJi^;ht company, capital, ,1:20,000; Ht. Johu's Mechanics' Wliale EishioK COlil|iftiiy, capital, £50,000; a Rural Ccmiiteiy coinpnuy, an Electric Telcfjraph company, a Mining company, Steam Ecrry coiiijiaiiy, Nt. Andrew and Ercdericton Hail- way coiiiiiunv, Imildiug societies, &c. Butwu(!ti iHiiri and 1810, join'.-stock com- puuiuN w(UHi I'ornicd, whose uuitt'd stocks ainomitud to t2,0(K),000. AH these have not, howttvi!!', none into operation. Tito (!i!ntnd l''iri! Insurance company has aciipiUl |mi(l in of ,£10,000; and £10,000 secured by Iannis tjf two sureties. 1^: 0,000; Com- vick, capittil, w Brunswick, 8 Bank, capi- luk of British 0,000. t. nil's ik, TotaU. KM) 735 350 ,flSS £ 310,000 185,410 24,579 112,750 17,842 17,399 ,847 008,016 £ ,038 177 141 5,089 720 2,847 £ 42,825 17,621 82,081 522,231 14,404 679,162 •oulntion in 1845 is lie amount returned In 1842, owing to le decline of credit, 2,000, and 1844 the province is not on a e regretted that the .noiol bank was not nd that none of the y accommodation to •e observed, farmers, )tlier advances, have ondhig their opcra- •, but in remote dis- iig markets for their uccd to barter." ook companies — ciipital £20,000; ompany, capital, <-chunics' "VVlialo Li)0,000 ; a Rural U-ctric Telegraph ny. Steam Ferry b'rcdcrictou llail- ictics, &c. joint-stock com- )s'o uniti'd stocks All these have cration. ncc company has )00; mid £10,000 •etics. COMMERCE AND SHIPPING OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 263 There is a marine insurance company. The amount under-written, during the year 1817, was .t")8,"i,0H) ; and the premiums, €20,107. Amount written off during the vear, as determined, cancelled, and lost, '£182,307. Outstanding risk, Gth July, 18-17, £102,742. Loss sustained during the year ending 1st July, 184U, £30,774. Capi- tal stock and assets of the company, £50,.'')01. Of this, paid up, £20,000. In the six moutlis, ending Jixnuary, 1818, the amount under- written was, £315,864. The ])reraiuras thereon £11,574. Loss, and probable loss sustained, £11,120. The Globe Insurance Company of New Bmnswick, has a capital stock paid in of £6000; and £24,000 secured by bonds of the stockholders, with sureties. Total capi- tal, £30,000. Risks, for the year ending 3l8t December, 1847, £448,992. Premiums received for ditto, £15,335. Losses paid during ditto, £18,868. There is a chamber of commerce at St. John's, composed of the principal merchants and ship-owners of the city. The chamber communicates with the government on sub- jects connected with the commerce and gene- ral improvement of the country. Commerce. — The trade of New Brunswick has largely increased; in 1831, the imports into St. John's were valued at £577,777 cun-ency; 1835, at £1,040,000; in 1839 at £1,433,474. In 1842, the value of the imports from Great Britain was £217,000; in 1843, £337,000; in 1841, £454,000; in 1845, £017,000; in 1813 (at St. John's and St. Ancbew's only), £533,512 ; in 1847, £583,355 ; in 1848, £ . The last three years have been periods of depression, owing to ! the state of the timber trade. In the im- i ports from Great Britain for 1847, at the port of St. John alone, there were 7,265 I packages of cottons, woollens, silks, and I linen manufactui'cs, haberdashery, &e., valued I at £276,548; iron, wrought, 2,678 tons, j value £30,602; iron, unwrought, 2,477 tons, value 27,975 ; hardware, 11,799 cwts., value £38,979; sailcloth, 455,366 yards, value j £26,145 ; cordage and twine, 17,024 cwts., value £37,483; copper, wrought, 2,163 cwts., ; value £10,935. These items indicate the I valuable trade in manufactures which Eng- j land carries on with the colonies. I The exports from New Brunswick have also increased; they consist principally of timber and fish. In 1847, the quantity of timber exported from St. John's and St. \u(lic\v''» was, 152,653 tons, valued at £188,446; deals, 28,270,081 feet; staves, 225,905 pairs; shingles, 4,131,583; railway sleepers, 483,570; laths, sawn, 4,245,706; masts and spars, 1,584; and various other descriptions of timber. The following are the exports of Avood from St. John in 1839 and 1845. In the returns from the outports, the quantity shipped is not specified : — Description o£ Timber. ^"fJ?}^^' Xf^^' Squared timber, tons . Hoards, feet . . . . Deals, do Staves, thousand . . SliinRles, ditto . . . Handspikes, number . Onrs, ditto . . . . Lathwood, cords . . Sawed Laths, thous. . Masts and Spars, No. Ship-knees, ditto . . Total 255,647 6,222 75,069 1,858 4,604 2,474 6,715 4,095\ 129/ 3,864 538 1839. £277,998 10,641 189,252 8,318 3,346 117 656 4,232 2,407 109 £502,976 Value, 1845. £275,451 26,342 310,650 4,536 6,278 168 4,342 1,951 £638,708 Of fish the exports from St. John in 18'17 were — dried, 13,022 quintals ; salted, 18,861 barrels; smoked, 11,020 boxes; oil, 3,057 gallons. In 1847, the shipping entering the port of St. John's was, 2,308 vessels, 347,308 tons; at St. Andrews, 898 vessels, 81,031 tons. The number and tonnage of vessels registered in New Brunswick, in 1841, wivs — Ports. Unilcr oO tons. Over 50 tons. Sailing Vessels .— No. Tonnage, No. Tonnago. Miramichi . . 64 1,330 27 8,813 St. Andrew's . 137 2,624 66 15,767 St. John's . . 108 4,978 221 57,762 Steam Vessels : — St. Andrew's . 1 21 915 St. John's . . 1 37 3 201 The navigation on the river St. John will probably be much extended ; for by the 3rd ai'ticle of the treaty between Great Britain and the United States, signed 9th August, 1812, the navigation of the river was opened to the citizens of the United States in the following terms : — " Article III. — In order to promote the interests and encourage the industry of all tlie inhabitants of the countries watered by the river St. John and its tributaries, whether living within the province of Now Brunswick, or the state of Maine, it is agreed, that where by the provisions of the present treaty, the river St. John is declared to be the line of boun- dary, the navigation of the said river shall be free and open to both parties, and shall in no way be obstructed by either! that all the produce of the forest, in logs, lumber, timber, boards, siaves, or shingles, or of a},'nciilture, not being m inulactured, grown on any of those parts uf tlie state oi Maine HI m :it-,l 264 SAW MILLS, LUMBER TRADE, AND PROPERTY THEREIN. watered by the river St. John or by its tributaries, of which fact reasonable evidence shall, if required, be produced, shall have free access into and through the said river and its said tributaries, having their source within the state of Maine, to and from the sea-port at the mouth of the said river St. John's, and to and round the falls of the said river, either by beats, rafU, or other conveyance j that when within the province of New Brunswick, the said produce shall be dealt with as if it were the produce of the said province ; that in like manner the inhabitants of the territory of the upper St. John, determined by this treaty to belong to her Britannic majestv, shall have free access to and through the river for their produce, in those parts where the said river runs wholly through the state of Maine : — provided always that this agreement shall give no right to either party to interfere with any regulations not inconsistent with the terms of this treaty, which the governments, re- spectively, of New Brunswick or of Maine moy make respecting the navigation of the said river, where botn banks thereof shall belong to the same party." The shipping built in New Brunswick in 1848 was— at St. John's, 62 vessels, 17,061 tons ; at Miramichi, 14 vessels, 2,655 tons ; at St. Andrews, 10 vessels, 3,077 tons; total, 86 vessels, tonnage, 22,793. In 1847, there were registered at St. John's 83 new ves- sels, 38,112 tons; for owners in the United Kingdom, 1 vessel, 613 tons; registered at Miramichi, 3 vessels, 1,636 tons; ditto for owners in the United Kingdom, 12 vessels, 6,563 tons; total, 99 vessels, 46,924 tons. Itelative Value af Saw-Mill Property and At St. Andre^v's the new vessels registered in 1847 were 16, 6,448 tons. Staple Products. — Timber has hitherto furnished the largest available product of the province. For more than a quarter of a century about 150,000 tons of timber have been annually exported. Since the for- mation of the colony the quantity of timber cut down has probably not been less than Jive million tons. According to the replies made in 1834 to some queries by Mr. Smith O'Brien, M.P., and the " Limerick Emi- grants' Friends Society," it was stated, that in 1833 there were in the province 229 saw mills, valued at £230,000; on the 1st of Januaiy, 1836, the number was 320, valued at £420,000, cutting upwards of 170,000,000 feet of lumber; and early in the year, contracts were entered into by the New Brunswick Mill Company, to the extent of £28,750, for the erection of other mills, which, when in operation, are estimated to cut from 100,000,000 to 150,000,000 feet of lumber, &c., in addition to the above. And the Aristook upper and lower mills. Rapid de Femme, Tobique, Lancaster, Grand Falls,* Acadian Company, and numerous other establishments, are in active prepara- tion for similar purposes. Produce, in the different Counties, in 1 834. Counties. I Saint John . . I King's .... I Westmoreland . I Kent .... ' Northumberland Gloucester . . Charlotte . . . Uueen's . . . Snnbury , . , York and Carleton Grand Totals Number of Mills. 35 46 66 29 17 10 fi5 12 11 32 314 Value of Mills, Privileges, &a. £ 67,530 21,559 23,162 38,450 58,900 19,377 80,625 35,000 22,950 43,150 £410,703 Quantity of Lumber sawed. Feet. 40,460,000 6,605,000 11,225,000 8,600,000 24,300,000 3,650,000 I 48,687,500 4,230,000 9,700,000 12,800,000 170,247,500 Value of Lum- ber at place of shipment. £ 7e,i25 16,512 28,046 21,600 60,750 9,250 124,343 10,673 24,250 32,000 £403,353 Number of Men employed. 525 470 412 196 3873 162 1690 255 247 320 8150 In 1836 . . . Number of saw-mills, 320 . . . Value, £420,000 . „ i840 ... „ „ 574 740,000 . „ 1845 . . . „ „ 040 900,000 . Men employed, 4,200 7,400 8,400 The timber trade has greatly encouraged emigration ; the lumberer not only explores and opens the country as a pioneer for others, he also, by his laborious pursuit, obtains for himself the means to settle on lands that he has helped to clear. Dr. Gcsner thus dc- • The Lancaster Mill Company, with 32 saws now in operation, will cut per annum 3,000,000 feet of lumber (1837). The Grand Falls are also in operation with the same number of saws, and will cut about scribes the mode in which this business is conducted : — " The felling and hewing of the timber for the British market are generally performed by parties o. men hired by the Umber-merchant or dealer for the purpose. In the autumn they are despatched into the same quantity of lumber annually (1837). The Leprcan mills are also in ooeration, which out 2,000,000 annually, (1837). OPERATIONS IN THE LUMBER TRADE, NEW BRUNSWICK. 2(55 Bgistered | hitherto ■oduct of arter of a | iber have the for- of timber ' less than ' he replies VIr. Smith rick Emi- tated, that 3 229 saw the 1st of 1 120, valued ' 70,000,000 ' the year, the New 3 extent of | )ther mills, stimated to ,000 feet of bove. And mills, Rapid I ter. Grand i numerous ive prcpara- (34. urn- Number .ce of of Men it. employed. 815G Iployed, 4,200 ■* ' 7,400 8,400 kg business is 1 , timber for the 1 led by parties o. lor dealer for the Jdespatched into 1 Illy (1837). The ■lion, which out i the woods, with a supply of provisions, axes, horses, or oxen, and everything requisite for the enterprise. Their stores are conveyed up the larger streams, in tow-boats drawn by horses, or in canoes paddled by men ; and in winter they are transported over the ice. Hay for their teams is procured from the nearest settlements, and is frequently purchased at £6 per ton. The site for operations having been selected by the leader of the paity,a camp is erected, and covered with the bark of trees. The floor of the shanty is made of small poles, and a sort of platform is raised for the general bed, which is composed of evergreen boughs or straw. The fira place is opposite the •lee])ing-floor ; and that part of the smoke that escapes, ascends through a nolo in the roof. In this rude dwelling the food is cooked, and the lumbermen rest at night. A hovel is also built for the oxen, and the hoy secured against rain. Tlic party is usually divided into three gangs ; one cuts down the trees, another hews them, and the third draws the timber to the nearest stream. They begin their work at day- light in the morning, and seldom return to the camp until evening, when tlicy find their supper prepared. During the night, tlie flre is replenished with wood by the cook and teamster j and it is a common remark among them, that while the head is freezing, the feet are burning. I have passed several nights with these Veople in the backwoods, and always found them re- jiarlcably kind and hospitable. They are ever cheer- ful and contented ; and a more hardy, laborious, and active class of men cannot bo found in any part of the world. Formerly, a certain quantity of mm was supplied to each individual ; but since the introduction of 'Icmperancc Societies, the practice is less common. " The avocation of the lumberman is not altogether free from danger. Many lives have been lost by the falling of trees, and the business of forking timber is Homctimes very hazardous. " In the mountainous districts, it is necessary that the timber should be conducted over the steep preci- ?ices and high banks ulong the borders of the rivers. laving been collected on the tops of the clifl's, the square blocks are launched endwise, over rollers, either into the water below, or on the ice, which is frequently broken by the concussion. In its descent, the passage of the timber is occasionally arrested by trees or brushwood : the lumberman then descends, and, holding on to the brushes of doubtful foothold, he cuts away the impediments. This mode of launch- ing timl)er is called 'forking,' — from which may have originated the substitution of the phrase ' fork- ing over, for the payment of a debt, as expressed by some of the inhabitants. ' " By the latter part of April, the melting ice and snow, with heavy rain?, swell the streams and produce freshets. UTie kimbermei commence ' stream-driv- ing.' The timber on tht rivulets is now floated downwards to the deep rivt s; each logis launched, and, when stranded, it is again rolled into the cur- rent — and their manner of urging the enormous pieces of pine over the rapids is alike creditable to tlieir courage and patience. Still pushing the rafts of timber downwards, and moving with Ihe current that doily transports the bark that covers their mov- able camps — stung by swarms of insects both day and night, these men possess more patience under their liardships and sufferings than those of anv other class in the country. Half-a-dozen of them will fioiiuenUy navigate the stream astride a log of timber, which tlicy paddle along with their legs in the water ; and they will force the light skiff or cnnoe up a perpen- VOL I. dicular fall of three feet, where the roaring of the water is truly deafening, and wliere there is constant danger of being plunged into some whirlpool, or dashed against the rocks. Although they are fre- quently rendered giddy by the revolving motion of tne eddies, they fix the poles upon the bottom, and move away against the fbaming torrent, or cross the stream on slippery blocks of pine. Such is the force of habit, that these men view the forest as tlieir home, and the river aa their turnpike j constantly exposed to the inclemency of the weather and the water of the rivers, they appear contented, and seem to regret when the labour of the season is ended. In situations where the water is more tranquil, a singuhir spectacle is sometimes presented : each of the di'iveis mounts a lo^ or piece of timber, and, with their pikes in hand, the party move along like a floating regiment, until some fall or rapid warn • them to re-embark. Not unfrequcntly, a rapid is blocked up with timber in such quantities, that it refuses to pass. This is colled a 'jam.' The clearing away of 'hcsc jams . the most dangerous part of the stream-drivers' employment, and w)io are sometimes thrown down n fall or rapid into the boiling pool beneath. " Tlie quantity of timber in one of these drives in enormous : its progress olong the river where there are rocks is therefore slow, especially when the summer is advanced, and the volume of the water consequently diminished. In order to deepen the water, ' wing dams' are sometimes constructed on the sides of the most troublesome rapids. The depth and velocity being thus increased, the floating timber [lasses along more readily ; but these dams greatly impede the passage of canoes in ascending the streams. Like? the eruployment of the sailor, the work of the lumber- man is peculiar: he requires much practice and experiences and it may be safely asserted, that should any unfiivourable change take place in the home timber trade, thousands of men will be thrown out of i cmjilovment, who have as little disposition to engage ! in agriculture as those who hove been employed ns : sailors or fishermen. , " The timber and logs having been collected, are formed into large flat rafts, and floated down to their place of shipment, or to saw-mills, where the logs are manufactured into deals, boards, planks, &c. The lumber-men then receive their pay, which they too often spend in extrava(»ant festivity, until the period arrives when they again depart for the wilderness : yet there are many who take care of their money, [ purchase land, and finally make good settlers. Tim- ber is collected by farmers, new settlers, and squatters, who also procure great numbers of logs for the saw- mills; but the greatest supplies are brought down by the lumbermen from the interior forests. Mills for the manufacture of timber have greatly multiplied within a few past years. The removal of the exterior parts of the logs, by saws, is favouroble to the preser- vation of the wood, and by it a great saving is cflected in the freight. The saws, however, are chiefly up- filied to spruce, while the pine is shipped in squared ogs." Mr. Pcrlcy, in his evidence before the House of Lords, 11 th Juno, 1847, related ! the following; case, as an illustration of the manner in which a woodman may become a , farmer : — " I sent a young man to a first-rate farmer in the country, who wrote to me for an active young man. 2 u ;Mi' 266 AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE OF EACH COUNTY, NEW BRUNSWICK. The cmigjnnt, an Irishmnii from tlie county of Cork, the son of a small fanner in that county, ile brought me a letter of introdu'^tion, stating that he was of a decent family. I sent him up to a first-rate farmer, who gave him 30«. currency per month, with which he was not well satisfied ; that is equal to 25s. ster- ling, lie had his maintenance and wnsliing and lodging in the fanner's house. He proved himself so active and useful, that in the second month his wages were advanced. Before the close of the season, and the setting in of winter, he had learned the use of the axe very well, and was engaged by a lumbering party in the woods at £5 per month. They found him everything in the woods, except clothing. He proved himself so good an axeman, that at the end of the year, when the men came down with the timber, and he was paid off, he brought to me a sum of £30 currency, and wanted to know what he should do with his earnings. I advised him to buy 100 acres of land, which cost him £12 currency; to put the other £18 in the Savings Bank, and hire out another year, ond by that time he would be in a position to establish himself comfortably as a farmer." Ship-building is largely carried on in New Brunswick. In 1783, the total tonnage of St. John's was 250 tons; in 1795, 4,000 tons; in 1824, 16,000 tons; in 1836, 59,663 tons; in 1839, 80,830 tons. At Miramichi and St. Andrew's, vessels are also built. In 1839, there were 26 vessels, of 9,827 tons, built at Miramichi. \'easel8 were formerly built by contract, at £5 to ,57 per ton, and so imperfectly put together, that the New Brunswick ships obtained a bad name. Since 1840, strenuous and successful efforts hiivc been made to improve the class of shipping, and now the New Brunswick ships are said to equal Thames-built vessels. There are mines and quarries of lime- stone, freestone, grindstone, granite, coal, and gyp«um, in various parts of the pro- vince; but the operations are of very limited extent. No authentic information haa been collected on the subject. The number and tonnage of vessels built in the province in 1840, were : — Ports. At St. John's . Miramichi . St. Andrew's Total number and tonnage No. 86 Tom. 17,061 2,65fi 3,077 32,793 In 1848, the number of saw and grist mills in the several counties of New Bruns- wick, was — In Charlotte Countu. — 16 grist and 103 saw-mills ; (in this county there is a smuU extent of roilroad made.) St. John's. — 9 grist and 4 saw-mills; 3 iron-foun- dries; 1 brass foundry; 3 nail manufactories; 6 brick manufactories ; and 1 pottery. Westmoreland. — 53 grist and 181 saw-mills. King's. — 43 grist and 68 saw-mills. Queen's. — 19 grist and 28 saw-mills. Sunlmry. — 6 grist and 15 saw-mills. York. — 22 grist and 31 saw-mills. Carleton. — 27 grist and 23 saw-mills. Northumberland. — 18 grist and 33 saw-mills; 1 iron foundry. Oloucester. — 18 grist and 7 saw-mills. Ristigouche. — 3 grist mills. Kent. — 13 grist and 31 saw-mills. Agricultural Produce. — As the forest-land becomes cleared, and population augments, the agricidtural resources of New Brunswick will be more fully developed. The following tables show the crops, stock, and land culti- vated and granted in each cotuity for the year 1847:— Crops prodtKed in the Province of New J3nwswick,for the Year ending Decrtnber 31, 1847. Name of the County. York Carleton Saint John .... King's Queen's Sunbury Westmoreland & Albert Northumberland . . Kent Ristigouchc .... Gloucester .... Charlotte Totals . . Wlieat. Bushels 14,300 4,970 563 13,770 10,431 4,739 44,250 41,562 17,241 7 486 21,2(i4 9,420 Kye. Bushel!) 147 2,640 I'iie 2,.395 1,673 940 1,034 1,932 10 768 Outs. Bushels 103,540 197,000 9,448 96,882 72,134 37,513 151,500 114,970 62,84 38!9;il 67,460 Barley. Bushels 2,192 '572 1,628 326 154 2,700 4,366 3,742 7!784 6,948 Buck- wheat. Bushels 17,645 116,200 3,234 96,543 36,576 9,541 38,900 1,092 3,063 342 2! 180 Other Grain. Bushels 1,837 8,940 1,052 423 596 749 12,800 994 1,427 194 1,448 1,942 189,996 12,802 952,225 30,412 325,316 32,402 1,988,865 133,225 16,121 184,463 Potatoes. Bushels. 259,248 271,000 91,924 145,208 123,431 79,135 252,400 274,697 197,437 78,543 212,372 93,470 Turnips Bushels 8,644 23,400 8,124 13,578 6,373 2,210 36,460 13,220 1,373 1,843 2,470 16,540 Other Roots. Bushels 873 1,457 1,296 1,867 1,089 847 3,900 804 287 673 1,648 1,430 Hay. Tous. 17,025 16,420 8,496 30,672 25,434 8,967 34,340 8,368 8,651 3,524 6,684 16,880 The prices of agricultural produce in 1848 j were — wheat, 6s, Qd.; rye, 4s.; oats, 2s.; barley, 3s. 9d.; buck-wheat, 2s. 8d.: pota- toes, 1*. 4d.; turnips. Is. 6rf.; maize, 4s. per bushel. Hay, Wn. per ton. VICK. r limited i lias been sola built Tons. ! 17,061 2,656 3,077 86 1 32,793 and grist 3W Bruns- J sa-w-mills; t, of railroad 3 iron-foun- anufactories ; >Ul8. -mills; 1 iron 3 forest-land a augments, V Brunswick he following d land culti- mty for tbe 1847. other Roots. Hay. Sushels 873 1,457 1,296 1,857 1,089 847 3,900 864 287 673 1,648] 1,430 Tons. 17,025 16,420 8,496 30,672 25,434 8,967 34,340 8,368 8,651 3,524 6,684 16,880 10,1211 181,463 maize, 4^. per STOCK AND CULTIVATION IN NEW BRUNSWICK. 267 Stock ami Land, ciilliialeil and uiicuUirattd, in the Pmviiici o/iVeic Srunswick, Year endiivj Dec. 31, 1817 NuoeoftU County. Ilorvoa, lliirni'il ('ittlli'. York ...... Carleton Saint John .... King's Queen's Sunbury Westmoreland & Albert Northumberland . . Kent Ristigouche . . . Gloucester .... Charlotte .... Totals . . . 2,347 2,080 1.437 3,110 1,046 876 0,212 2,617 1,460 1,783 U6H 1,326 20,043 0,343 11,230 6,106 ll),63» 10,320 4,020 20,610 11,843 4.790 2,160 4,912 9,060 120.113 Sliooj), 19,832 18,430 4,708 27,794 14,922 7,840 30,4(» 16,134 9,439 3,317 8,124 14,142 180,082 Snino 4,324 0,840 2,786 0,978 3,451 1,802 7,416 6,005 3,460 1,480 3,684 3,384 Pasture. 61,169 Acres. 23,431 28,400 16,842 43,842 28,446 0,167 47,500 8,368 6,827 3,652 6,340 15,584 Cropped umliallav 238,159 AcrcH. 29,437 31,350 18,146 61,603 33,473 14,210 68,800 40,248 19,240 5,741 8,230 20,412 330,890 Grnnti'd Land. Uiiffriintjd Land. Acres. 910,914 811,402 309,147 662,752 614,204 377.078 811,140 986,168 386,398 156,979 332,902 317,245 6,006,329 Acres. 1,230,686 4,480,598 105,573 187,108 477,076 405,002 509,680 1,993,832 640,002 1,109,581 704,538 466,115 12,309,851 In 1825, major-general Sir Howard Dou- glas, then governor of Now Brunswick, gave a stimulus to the agriculture of the province ; assembled the members of the legislature, and other gentlemen, at Frcdcricton, addressed them in an eloquent speech, and strongly urged extended and eureftil cultivation of the soil. Agricultural societies were formed, improved breeds of cattle ordered iVoin Great Britain, model ploughs and other rural im- plements introduced, and a benc'flcial tuul lasting impulse was given to husbandry. The wheat of New Bruuswiek is of tlic very best quality : it is much lieiivicr than the American (United States) wheat; weighs 65 pounds to the bushel, or oven more. The produce is 15 to 30 bushels an acre. Indian corn is not a certain crop. It re- quires a light, warm soil, and plenty of manure. The old American rule is to drop 6 grains of corn into each hole : — One for tlio out-woMii, Onu tor the cruw, Olio for tho Krub, Aud three for to |(row. Oats is a safe crop : tho produce is 20 to 40 bushels an aero. In 1814, tho potato blight reached New Brunswick from the United States, gradually found its way over the boundary line, and proceeded from W. to E. In 181.5, the potatoes sud'crod as much as in Ireland J but in 181(1 tho disease disappeared to a great extent, imd tliero was nearly an average crop, of good (luality. The produce, on old lands, is from 150 to 400 bushels per aero ; 800 bushels n\ay be raised on one acre. Clover is a good crop. White clover is indigenous. Turnip cultiva- tion has been introduced of late ytnirs, with great success for feeding cattle iu winter. Tho two following cases were submitted in evidence to the House of Lords, 11th June, 1847, in proof of the capability of New Bruns- wick to receive agricultural settlers. The witness advocated the making of roads, in the first instance, into the wilderness, as a means of opening the country, and of giring tem- porary employment to the newly-arrived emi- grant. He was asked by their lordships : — " Can you give any account of particular settle nii'nts formed m the neighbourhood of those roads P — 'I'wo very striking instances of the success attend- ing the formation of new settlements in t!ie wilder- ness by associations of settlers, having the privilege of making their own ronds at a reasonable rate, exist in York County. The Harvey settlement was formed in the forest, on the line of road between' Fredcricton and St. Andrew's, in 1837, by a party of emigrants, (45 heads of families), from the north of England, who landed in New Brunswick in a very destitute condition. A report upon thij settlement was presented to his excellency the lieutenant-gover- nor by the Honourable L. A. Wilmot, the commis- sioner who formed it, on the 9th February, 1844, accompanied by a statistical return. This report state*? that it is shown by the return, that from land where not a tree was felled in July, 1837, there had been taken, during the preceding autumn, 260 tons of hoy and straw, and 15,000 bushels of grain, pota- toes, and turnips, and that the great success which bad attended the labours of these industrious and valuable settlers, aflbrded an unquestionable proof of what might bo done on the millions of wilderness land in New Brunswick. The return shows the number of settlers to be 44, and the value of tlio improvements to be £4,289 10s. The settlers accom- panied the original return with the following obser- vations, written by one of the parties himself : — ' The climate of New Brunswick agrees well with the con- stitution of Englishmen j the air is salubrious, and the water as pure and wholesome as any in the world. During the si.x years of our location but two deaths have occurred, wnile there have been thirty- nine birtlis without the presence of medical aid. Six years' experience has convinced us, that, notwith- stonding tho privations to which new settlers ar«i U' i( 2G8 THE HARVEY SETTLEMI'.NT IN NEW BRUNSWICK. f \ pxposcd, (liligenco nntl persovcrnnco must ensure success.' This Knjjlish settlement is ratlier compact ;ilon}? both sides of the road. The lots were laid out with the usual frontajje granted in New Bruns- \\ iek of 40 rods, with sufficient depth to the rear to give them each 200 acres of land. The settlers were conducted into the wilderness by the blazed line, and they commenced making the road. The price paid them by the province for making and gravelling the road enabled them to jjiirchaso provisions, and to maintniii themselves and their families, until the time when they had some land cleared, and had secured a crop. They cleared the land themselves. The men who formed the Harvey settlement were the contractors themselves ; each man got a eortain num- ber of rods to make. They all became purchasers of land. Each person cultivated his own plot. All work upon their own land. Kach of them earned enoujjh to pay for a plot of land, and to settle upon it. The price at which they obtained the land was Is. G<1. sterling an acre j one-fourth paid down, and the rest in one, two, and three years, without in- tere.'it. They had it at the minimum rate. A man put down upon o piece of wilderness with 200 acres of land, should live upon it the second searon, after securing a crop, assuming that, in the first season, he begins too late to put in a crop. The better course is to hire themselves out the first season, and at the close of the year, if they do not get emploj-ment for the winter, they have some months to work on their own land. During the winter they chop a piece down, creel a log-house, and get upon the lond in the spring. If a man is industrious, and successful in !>^etting his land cleared in the spring, and getting in his crop, he may secure enougli that season to maintain him.self and his family for the succeeding year. Having done that, he is safe. " You have given an example of the progress of the Harvey settlement, which was an En!;lish settle- ment. Can you give the committee a similar ex- ample with respect to any Irish settlement? — I can mention the 'Teetotal Settlement,' which was an Irish settlement, formed by people from Cork and Keriy. It was formed in 18-12, under the same com- missioner, by a party of destitute emigrants from the south of Ireland. In a report from the commissioner, dated 25th January, 1844, it is thus stated : — ' The results of the second effort in which I have been engaged in forming settlements in the wilderness, have afforded me the most unmingled satis&ction. Where but two years ago stood a dense forest there have been gathered, by thirty-five settlers during the past autumn, 7,236 bushels of grain, potatoes, and turnips. The accompanying return shows an esti- mated value of £1,137 in buildings and clearings ; and when there is added to this the market value of the crop, exceeding £800, we have about £2,000 return (exclusive of the making four and-a-quarter miles of road) from a tract of land which, in its wilder- ness stote, would not in the same time have produced ft shilling. I cannot now consider the successful occu- pation of our wild lands by associated bodies of settlers, having the privilege of making tlieir own roads at a reasonable ratt", as a doubtful (experiment. Xo antagonist theory can prevail against the practical experience which can now^e referred to. Similar management must producc^nilar results ; and I am well persuaded that no i4||^ system is so well calcu- lated to promote the improvement of our millions of wilderness acres, and thus to advance the population and coraiiieroo of tlie province.' " Notwithstanding the defective state of agriculture in the province, the following crops, per acre, have been produced in dif- ferent ports of New Brunswick : — Wheat, 40 bushels, some weighing fi8 lbs. per bushel; barley, 40; oats, 60; Indian com, 75 ; buck wheat, 75 ; peas, 40 ; tur- nips, 1,000 ; potatoes, 800 bushels ; carrots, 30 tons ; mangel wtirtzel, 30 tons. In the report of the York (New Bruns- wick) Agricultural Society, in 1841, it was stated that the following produce was raised on seven and-a-half acres of land, including a garden : — " Ten tons hay ; 76 bushels oats ; 280 bushels pota- toes ; 3 tons straw ; 35 bushels carrots ; 20 bushels turnips; Id bushels beets and parsnips, besides an abundant crop of other garden produce. And from the time that clever was fit to cut for soiling, four cows were liberally fed every night during the sea- son, and two horses occasionally m every week." A settler at Stanley, on the New Bruns- wick Company's land, in 1815, thus details the agricultural result of his first year's farming : — " It may be said that wo have longer winters, and less productive soil than in the west, but against th'.3 we have healthy climate, and a better market, the summer not so oppressive, nor the winter more severe. Of the soil and its produce, you may judge from the following statement of 20 acres, of which I have taken account, showing the produce, the cost of the land, and prepa'ing it :— "roducc. £ n. £ s. Oat« on 17 ocrea, 8;, bushds at 2*. Gd. . . 108 5 WliiMt on ;i acres, 72 bushels at 83. ... 28 16 Striiw 2.5 160 1 20 acres of land, at Os 6 Clearing ditto ready for crop, 783. per aero . 78 Onts for seed, SO bushels to 17 aercs, at 4j. . 10 Wheat ditto, 5 bushels to 3 acres, at lO.f. . 2 10 Harrowing and sowing at 7^. Gd. per acre . 7 10 Harvestinflr at los. per aero . . . . 16 120 C Profit . . 40 1 " The item for clearing the land in the above, for the first year, takes much from the show of profit, but is a sum that would not afterwards appear. Another settler states the produce of 25 acres of land : — " 1 have at jjresent 100 acres of land, and about 25 cleared, and all paid ; cost me £30 currency, equal to £25 English money. I had five years to pay it. I raised on it last summer 300 bushels of potatoes, 100 bushels of turnips, 100 bushels of oats, beside some wheat and buckwheat, and a great quantity ot garden vegetables, and two barrels of pork, which, thank God, I can use in my own family, and not be compelled to sell it to pay the u-nt, tithes, or taxes; so that I am (piite comfortable, but very uneasy about my friends at home." I Mr. M'Gregor, M.P., late secretary to the Board of Trade, recorded the following in- stance of successful agricultural iudustrv in Kh.vt- On: itatc of Alowing I ill dif- ; 68 lbs. ! 1 , Indian ' i 10; tur- 1 carrots, I ! I r Bruns- j i I, it was 1 i as raised ; including j ' ishelspota- 20 bushels besides an And from ioiling. Tour nij the sea- week." BW Bruns- lus details rst year's winters, and ^ t against th'^s ; market, the ' • more severe, dge from the phich I have e cost of the , £ ». £ >. 106 5 ! 28 16 25 160 1 . 6 . 78 . 10 . 2 10 . 7 10 . 16 . 120 C 40 1 he above, for how of profit, appear." )duce of 25 id, and about ^ | urrency, equal , , ars to pay it. | j of potatoes, i . oats, beside at quantity of j f pork, which, ! 1 mdv, and not 1 cut", tithes, or | ' .ble, but very i rotary to the following in- industrv iu GRANTED, UNGRANTED, AND. RESERVED LANDS. 2f)9 New Brunswick, which came under his ob- servation : — " On coming down the south-west branch of the river Miramicni, in the autumn of 1828, where the road from Frederictown and the river St. John join Miramichi, I was astonished," he says, " at the unex- pected progress made during so sliort a period (about tour years) in the cultivation of the soil. An American told mo that when he planted himself there, seven ; years before, he was not worth a shilling. lie has ; now (1829) more than 300 acres under cultivation, ' an immense flock of sheep, horses, several yokes of ' oxen, milch cows, swine, and poultry, a large dwelling- house, a numerous train of labourers, one or two other houses, a forge with a powerful trip-hammer worked by water-power, fulling mill, grist mill, and two i saw mills, all turned by water. Near these he had erected a bui'ding for the double purpose of a school and chapel, and which he said was open to all per- suasions. He raised large crops, ground his own corn, manufactured the flax ho cultivated, and tlie wool of his sheep into coarse cloths; and sold the provisions which his farm produced. In his barn was a heap containing about 90 bushels of Indian corn, that grew on a spot scarcely an acre, which he pointed out to me. lie talked much in praise of the rich interior country." j This individual (Mr. Boies) had (1834) pro- bably the best cultivated and as well a stocked ; farm as there was in the province. He raised in some seasons, about 1,000 bushels of wheat ; a large quantity of oats, Indian corn, peas and beans, turnips, &c. j cuts 200 tons of hay ; keeps 30 or 40 oxen, all reared on his farm, employed in the forest hauling out timber; has an extensive dairy; a pig- gery in which the hogs are reared, fattened, and ciu"ed, agreeable to the most approved and economical methods; and every other concomitant to an e.Ktcnsive farm; also a mill for the manufacture, separately, of flour, oatmeal, barleymeal, Indian com, meal, and flour ; a carding -nill, &c. There is an abundu j^e of land in the pro- vince available for settlers. The following statement shows the quantity granted and ungranted in each county, and also the In- dian lands. It will be perceived that out of 11,715,291 acres of land /rV /or cultivation not much more than half a million (586,97!)) acres have yet been cleared. The formation of the St. Andrews and Quebec railway, and branch lines, will tend materially to the opening of the country. A tax on wild lands held unproductively would have a good eflfect : Granted and IJ'nr/ranfed Lands of New Brunswick. Cloarfd land, iu .\crcs. AVildcmc'SS Land. Granted and located Lund. Unprantcd Laud. Total Contents. County. Fit for Agvicultiurc. Unfit for Agricultuve. tioii. Ristigouche . . . Gloucester . . . Northumberland Kent Westmoreland . . Albert Saint John . . . Charlotte .... King's Queen's .... Sunbury .... York Carleton ... 11,439 17,575 35,704 28,218 93,030 32,110 27,134 49,135 92,452 57,089 17,262 59,818 65,953 941,341 764,899 2,208,177 748,637 589,058 301,088 290,690 550,669 668,101 678,144 673,614 1,606,337 1,894,536 313,780 254,966 736,059 249,545 190,352 100,362 93,896 183,556 189,367 226,047 191,204 535,445 ' 631,511 156,979 332,902 986,168 386,398 577,440 233,700 309,147 317,245 662,752 614,204 377,078 970,914 630,802 1,109,581 701,538 1,993,832 640,002 301,000 199,860 105,573 466,115 187,168 447,076 405,002 1,230,686 2,061,198 1,266,560 1,037,440 2,980,000 1,026,400 878,440 433,560 414,720 783,360 849,920 9^11.280 782,1)80 2,201,600 2,592,000 1 s* l:sg Hi 2 r> 3 Grand Totals . 586,979 11,715,291 3,905,090 6,355,729 9,851,631 16,207,360 r-?4 jReservcd Lands in New B •unswichfor the Indians in 1842 Reserves. Aercfl. Total .Veres. Indians Total Indians Reserves. Acres. Total Acres. Indians Totol Indians. In NonTHUMHF.UI,AND— Ot Little SAV. branch j of Miraraichi river .) Ou Little N.W. branch j of Mirftmielu river .) At Burnt Church . . . Tubusintac river . Khnt— On Rieliihucto river . „ Buctouche river . Gloucester — On Pokemouchc river . „ Nepisiquit river 10,000 12,7o0 1 1,6 10 1 4,(i(10) 3,.^00 2,fi00-| 1,000/ 33,125 8,100 3,600 200 '■ 401 281 102 RlSTIOOUCHE — On Eel river .... Westmoueland— On AboushaKan river , „ Mcmramcook river Saint Johk— On Kenncbeckosis river YOUK— At Indian ViUago — Carleton — At Mcductio river . „ TdBflJub river . . „ Madawaska river . 7" t 16,00 1\ 700/ 400 250 60 15 200 200 16,700 20 123 26 12 138 105 158 170 )m\ Total Acres in the I'rovince, 6?,950 Total Indians, ditto, 1,376 m \? «70 PRICES OF PROVISIONS AND WAGES IN NEW BRUNSWICK. h I I • II If 'I 1 il Land is now sold in New Brunswick by auction, under the Civil List Act, at 3». currency per acre, aa the minimum upset price. A party desiring a lot of land, ap- plies by petition for the lot that he is desirous of obtaining. If unsurveyed, an order is sent to him for a survey, of which he bears the expense. On the return of the surrey, it is advertised one month to be sold in the coimty where the land lies. If sur- veyed, upon an application being made it is at once advertised to be sold at the monthly sale. In the one case, the party advances the expense of the survey ; and in the other, an established price of 8d. per acre is added to the minimum price of land. The party attends at the sale, and if he purchases, and pays down the money, he obtains a dis- count of 20 per cent, for prompt payment. If he does not pay for the land, he pays one- fourth, and enters into a bond to the crown for the remaining three-fourths, payable in one, two, and three years, without interest, and receives a location ticket. The money is transmitted by the local deputy to the receiver-general of the province, and even- tually finds its way into the general revenues of the country. I Many settlers who arrived a few years ago in New Brunswick, without a shilling, are now the owners of fine freeholds, surrounded with abundance, in a healthy climate, and under the protection of laws of their own making. The area of New Brunswick is estimated, in roimd numbers, at nearly 17,000,000 acres; of these, 5,000,000 are said to be granted; 2,000,000 are deducted for water and waste; and the remaining 10,000,000, fit for settlement and cultivation, are in a state of wilderness, imgrantcd, and at the disposal of gOTcmment. According to the New Bruns^vick Blue Book for 1848, the land granted and sold in New Brunswick, in 1848, under 100 acres, was, 6,639 in 117 grants; above 100, and not exceeding 500 acres, 92,737 in 282 grants ; exceeding 500 acres, 15,015. Total munber of acres granted and sold during the year, 114,391, of which 46,228 acres wore purchased, and 68,163 granted. The average price, per acre, was 2s. 9d. The number of acres granted in the colony up to i848, has b^n 3,915,498; and the number sold, 1,720,296. There remain still to be granted, 13,511,154 acres of land. From a recent Report of the surveyor- general of New Brunswick upon the present state of crown lands, it appears that the whole quantity of land sold during the year 1848, amounted to 26,761 i acres, of which 14,777 acres have been paid for in full, and upon which J61789 19». 3d. have been received; leaving 11,984^ acres, which have been sold under the instalment system, and upon which j£473 3«. 4rf. have been received. The timber licences for the past yeai- cover, it is stated, an area of 2,157 square miles, at an average rate of 16». 8id. per mile, producing £1,992 8«. The highest rate paid for any one lot was £20 Is. per square mile, being a licence for 9 square miles, situate on the left bank of the river St. Croix, about 25 miles above St. Stephen. The quantity of land under licence in 1847 was 5,360 square miles, which produced the sura of £3,585 7s. 9rf., the highest price paid per square mile being £5, the whole quantity averaging only 10». 5}rf. per squai-c mile. The immigration into New Brunswick, during the year 1848, amounted to only 4,020 persons, being a decrease, as compared with 1847, of 11,249, and as compared with 1846, of 5,745 persons. The Blue Book for 1848, contains the fol- lowing : — Prices of Provisions. — Wheaten flour, per barrel of 1961bs., £1 9s. 3d.; wheat, per imperial bushel, 5s. 5rf. ; wheaten bread, per lb., 2d. ; homed cattle, £7 10». ; horses, each, £25 ; sheep, per score, £13 10«. ; swine, each, £2 10s. ; milk, per quart, SJrf. ; butter, 9rf. ; cheese, 7d. ; beef, 3d. ; mutton, or pork, 4rf. ; rice, 3d. ; cof- fee, 10\d. ; tea, 3s. 7d. ; sugar, per lb., 8d. ; salt, per bushel, Is. 4d. ; wine, 10s. ; brandy, 9s. ; beer, per gallon. Is. O^d. ; tobacco, per lb.. Is, Gd. Wages for Labour. — Domestic, 30s. to 60s. ; predial, 30s. to 45s., with board and lodging, per month ; trades, 4'S. Cd to 8». per day. Fisheries. — New Brunswick possesses a coast line of 500 miles in extent, admirably adapted by its deep bays, coves, r/ad inlets, for piscatory pursuits. The colonists coaiplain that they are not protected from the depredations of the Ame- ricans, who, contrary to treaty, and to national rights, fisli within three miles of the land, and carry off their prey, despite of cruisers or coast guard. Dr. Gesner says, the fisheries of New Brunswick, if duly protected, and pursued with energy, would form one of the- principal sources of her I I It K. I the whole rear 1848, i oh 14,777 and upon received ; been sold ipon which 1 past yeai' ! 157 square i J. 8irf. per ! ■he highest B20 1». per r 9 square of the river 5t. Stephen, nee in 1847 roduced the ighest price 1, the whole i. per squai-c , I Brunswick, ited to only as compared impared with itains the fol- COD AND HERRING FISHERIES IN NEW BRUNSWICK. 271 I ! ten flour, per | | I; wheat, per > eaten bread, I £7 lOs. ; per score, '• ; milk, per se, Id. ; beef, \ ice, 3d.; cof- per lb., 8d. ; 10s. ; brandy, yd.; tobacco, 3stic, 30». to ith board and 4^. ei to 8.«. k possesses a ent, admirably cs, f.-ad inlets, t they are not US of the Ame- eaty, and to ee miles of the ■ey, despite of Gesner says, I swick, if dulylj energy, would sources of her| wealth and prosperity. The coasts, indented by numerous harbours, bays, and rivers, afford every facility for shore and dcep-sca- fishing ; and although the practices of the Americans have annually r^J- ced the num- bers of the finny tribes, t\ ._> are still suffi- ciently numerous to render the employment, under proper management, profitable. But, from causes already adverted to, the demand fur timber and a scanty population, the fisheries are not pursued with energy, and the fishermen lack the stimulus of the Iiountics given to the Ameiicans, with whom they are unable to maintain a competition. The whole number of fishing vessels be- longing to the ports and harbours of the Bay of Fundy side of the province, in 1840, was only 65. Their burthens were from 10 to 30 tons each. The present number, in- cluding 20 belonging to Grand Manan, will not exceed 70, exclusive of shore-fishing- boats. That island alone, with a proper population, could employ advantageously 100, and the whole coast 600. The number of fishing vessels belonging to the United States, and fishing in the same waters, is as 10 to 1. The fishermen of the province, with few exceptions, are far less persevering and industrious than the Americans, or even the people of Nova Scotia. The larger vessels fish for cod on the banks. The shore-fishing is carried on in ooats; but they are often very imperfectly supplied with fishing-tackle, and the catch is \imited. There is an annual decrease in the number of codfish along the shores, while the haddock are quite as plentiful as they were in former years — a circumstance arising from the fact that the "garbage" thrown into the sea is more destructive to codfish than to haddock. Halibut, hak<;, and other kinds of fish, are taken by the baited codfish hook; pollock are trailed for in swift wa- ter. Herring are taken in nets, but the greatest quantities are caught in " wares." These are circular enclosures of strong stakes, driven into the beaches near low- watci mark, and interwoven with brush- wood. At high-water they are covered by the sea. When the tide recedes, the fish are enclosed in the ware, and left dry. The enclosure is sometimes made with strong nets. Sweeps are also made by large seines. It frequently happens that a much larger quantity of herring are taken in a single tide than can be secured by the fishermen, or perhaps more than their stock will cvire. In such instances, great quantities of dead fish are washed away, and which, with the offal thrown into the water, are no doubt a great injury to the fisheries; yet little at- tention is given to this abuse of one of the best temporal gifts of Providence. Five hundred and even one thousand barrels of herring are sometimes taken in one of these wares in a single night-tide. Dr. Gesnor states, that he has never known an instance on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, where the proprietors of one of thesT wooden cages were prepared to secure a large catch, or " haul," as it is frequently called. These " wares," erected in the commence- ment of the fishing season in almost all the bays, harbours, and creeks, are frequently leased to the Americans, who catch, cure, and smoke the fish upon the shores by the consent of the inhabitants, and in direct violation of the Treaty of 1783, and the Convention of 1818. In Fassamaquoddy Bay, they fish for cod within a quarter of a mile from the British islands. The advan- tages of the people are thus sacrificed, often for small supplies of American goods, which are called for by their pressing necessities, the offspring of their idleness, and the re- linquishment of their rights. That the fish- eries are capable of supporting an extensive trade, and of affording ample remuneration to individual exertion, is certain, from the success that always attends the labours of those who pursue them with activity and energy. In 1839 (which was an unfavourable season for fishing), William Gubtail pur- chased for his son a boat of 11 tons burthen, for which he paid £100. With this small vessel, the son, with four men whom he had hired, not only cleared the expenses and purchase-money of the vessel, &c., but sup- ported the whole of his father's family during ■ the whole of the winter. Between the months of May and October of 1810, hej made three trips to the deep-sea-fishing, and j caught 250 quintals of codfish. Twice he : went to the herring fishing, and landed 170; barrels. He also made a third voyage forj herrings. Thus, in less than six months, ho cleared double the value of his vessel, paid i his expenses, and supported his family. | Many of the inhabitants of the coast and islands engage in the different employments of agriculture, fishing, and lumbering ; but as might be expected, they are unsuccessful in each of those branches of labour. They plant a few potatoes, and fish in boats during the summer. In winter they embark for the forest, shoot, or remain idle. Many Its, V, If; m irt'. j'l! ;il-^ 272 MACKEIlliL AND OTHER FISIIEUIES IN NEW UHUNSWICK. I I who take large supplies of fish during their ' , season, arc compelled to purchase them from I j the trader during the cold mouths at a ; high price. These observations will not, however, apply to the whole fishing popula- tion, of whom exceptions are to be made for a few individuals who live comfortably, and have, by their industry, gained an honest independence. The present degraded and unprofitable state of the fisheries has re- sulted &om the violations of the convention by the American fishermen, who obtain bounties on fish taken and cured upon Bri- tish shores, and the indifference of the coast settlers, who remain contented \nt\i a pre- carious subsistence, the result of idleness, rather than earn a comfortable competency. As natural consequences, poverty, and some- times absolute misery, is too often seen among them, and the resources of both the sea and the land are unproductive in their hands. Mackerel may be taken in the Bay of Fundy from the 1st of May to the middle of October. They are taken by hooks, or on jigs ; nets are seldom employed. Mackerel fishing is not followed with much enter- prise, and is therefore seldom profitable. The principal shad fisheries are those of the St. John and Petieodiac. Salmon are taken in the small bays and large rivers in nets, or speared during the dark hours of the night. Shad and gaspereau are caught in nets. A fish called menhaden, which re- sembles a small shad, although plentiful, is not deemed profitable. Porpoises oi-e shot by the Indians during the summer for their oil. Lobsters ond other shellfish are abun- dant. Whales are seen upon the coast at all seasons, but no attempts arc made to capture them. The Mechanics' Whale-fishing Company, and C. C. Stewart, Esq., of St. John, are engaged in the whale fishery of the Pacific Ocean. The exports of whale oil from the province average about 100,000 gallons, and of sperm oil 50,000 gallons per annum. The fisheries on the N.E., or Gulf of St. Lawrence coast of New Brunswick are not in a more prosperous state than those of the Bay of Fundy, except at Caraquette, which exports from 8,000 to 10,000 quintals of dry fish annually. The encroachments and con- traband traide of the American fishermen are even more daring in the Gulf than along the Atlantic coast. Cod-fish are still abundant on many of the banks and shoals, and great facilities are offered for shore-fishing. Haddock, pol- lock, and halibut arc very numerous at cor- tttin seasons : with these there arc immense shoals of herring. Caplin arc sonietimes carted on the fields for manure. Salmon frequent all the rivers; but since the erec- tion of saw-mills their numbers have de- creased. Gaspereau and smelts are taken in the principal streams; and sea trout enter the lagoons. Mackerel may be taken in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Bay Chalcurs from May to October, and large catches arc made by the American fishermen. In summer the mack- erel are lean, but in t)»e autumn they arc remarkably fat and of large size. Lobsters, clams, and other shellfish are plentiful. Oysters are shipped from different parts of the shore to Quebec, Halifax, St. John, and other places. In the early settlement of the country, walruses were ttieu, and they are still occasionally seen . There are two varieties of seals. Whales pursue the fish into the Gulf during the summer, but no attempts are made to capture them. From the rapid increase of population, it would naturally result that the exports of fish would be enlarged; yet, from causes already adverted to, the fisheries advance but slowly, and unless they arc protected by the govern- ment, they will be altogether in the hands of the French and Americans. These inex- haustible maritime resourc?^ are neglected, and a general apathy prevails towards the improvement of those blessings Providence has so abundantly dispensed in the waters of the coast. The foregoing remarks arc almost entirely derived from the personal observations of Dr. Gesner, who expresses himself strongly against the " encroachments of the Americans." The exportation of the produce of the fisheries of New Brunswick in 1830 was, of — Dried fish . Pickled fish . »f M • • • Smoked fish. »» If • ' • Fish oil . . . 1834. Dry cod, 26,659 quintals Wet cod, 693 barrels . Herrings, 3,653 boxes, 365 bnri pis Mackerel, 3,014 barrels 27,825 crots. 21,177 barrels. 2,783 kegs. 4,952 boxes. 5,350 number. 12,302 gallons.* Value. . £15,188 683 709 2 564 Salmon, 869 barrels .... 1,787 Other sorts . . ... 6,564 Train oil 0,577 in the Total £35,972 • Colonial System, by Henry Blisp, Esq., p. f8. London, 1833. [lock, pol- ls at cvr- ! immense j lomctimcs Salmon | the croc- 1 have de- taken in rout cater 3ulf of St. m May to ado hy the the mack- n they nro Lobsters, ! plentiful, nt parts of John, and nent of tho id they arc ,wo varieties ih into the 10 attempts m tho rapid d naturally 1 would be dy adverted slowly, and the govcrn- (1 tho hands These inex- neglectcd, towards the Providence the waters cm arks arc the personal bo expresses croachments duce of the ISO was. of — 825 crots. 77 barrels. 783 kegs. 952 boxes. 350 number. 302 gallons.* Value. . £15,183 683 709 . 2 564 . 1,"!87 , 6,564 . 9,577 . £35,972 lis?, Ksq., r- P8. SIR W. M. O. COLEROOKE ON VALUE OE NEW HKUNSVV1CK. '^7:i 183i. Fish, drieil . „ pickled „ smoked Oil, cod liver „ seal „ wlialp •f jUI . 1830. Fish dried, 23,694 i)uintaU . ■ Ill/ 16,656 barrels " P""''"'! { 61242 kiU . „ smoked, 14,.')65 boxes . Oil, whale, 78,327 galloni . „ sperm, 16,877 „ „ cod, 12,827 „ ■NVhalobone, 236 cwt. . Vnluo. , £12,894 , 21,269 1,944 849 1,0H8 , 10,988 , £49,032* Value. . £16,227 ■} 19,812 ' 6,854 7,720 , 3,9li9 1,727 1,323 Total £57,632t 1844. Pickled salmon . . «,479 barrels, 6419 kits. Smoked „ . . 406 boxes. Mackerel ... 24 barrels. Dried fish . . . 12,405 quintals. Alewivos & shads, salted 16,346 barrels. Codfish, fickled . . 214 barrels. Herring, salted . . 1,754 barrels. „ smoked . . 7,308 boxes. Seal oil . . . 240 gallons. Cod oil . . . . 6,774 „ The above return does not include Port of St. Andrew's and its outbavs. the Fisli n II 1845. , dried, 8,842 quintals . ; salted 17,923 barrels . smoked, 10,068 boxes oil, 71 barrels Viiluc. . £5,526 . 13,444 . 2,514 213 Total . £21,697 In 1847, the exports of fi.sh from the port of St. John were, dried, 13,023 quintals, value d67,374; salted, 18,861 barrels, value £15,078; smoked, 11,020 boxes, value £1,136; oil, 3,507 gallons, value £318. From St. Andrew's, in the same year, the fish exported was valued at £5,379. The legislature of the province have recently offered a small tonnage bounty on fishing- vessels ; but the whole sum granted for that object was too small to have any beneficial effect upon fishing industry, which will be observed to be on the decline. Property. — By a statement made in 1833, in New Brunswick, the value of property in the province was stated to be — city, seaport, • Colonial tables, Murray, vol. ii. p. 260. + In the custom-house returns of the outport ' 1 rs date August, 17(57; and the wliol. I-,. II ,1 passed from the crown in a single iLty, evccpting only the small reser- vation* tor three intended county towns and two townships, which had been previously partly occupied, with the permission of government, by a fishing company. The result was anything but satisfactory. Mr. John Stewart, to whom I am indebted for much valuable information on the subjct, says, that many of the holders of the tiekc^ts had never any intention of expending either their time or their money in settling the island, and had used their interest only for the sake of obtaining a saleable commodity. The grants were, therefore, verj' soon brought into the market : some of them at first fetched £1,000 each; but as the supply quickly exceeded the di .iiarul, tho price (iiniiuislKMl to oiie-lialf, the greater number sold being purchased by a few individuals on speeidatioii. With the iih-a of promoting tho settle- ment of the island, a large majority of tho proprietors ))etitioned the king that the colony should be erected into a separate government from Nova Scotia ; and, in order to defray the expense of this alteration, they olfered to commence paying the »iu!-half of their quit rents on May, 17(59, although, by the terms of settlement, thev were only to become |)ayable on Michaelmas day, five years after the date of the grants, while the payment of the other half was to have been postponed for 20 years. Their proposal was acceded to; and, in 1770, a governor (Mr. I'atersou) and other officers arrived. At this time there were not more than l.'iO families and five proprietors on the island. After ten years little was found to have been accomplished : a few enterprising and con- scientious persons acted up to the spirit of their engagement, among whom w:. Sir James Montgomery, then Lord Chief Banm of the Scotch Court of Exchequer; but the greater number shamefully neglected the duties they had voluntarily undertaken. Had all the proprietors a^ted together, a fine and thriving settlement would, in all probability, have been speedily established ; but, as it happened, the whole burthen was thrown upon a small number, who were quite unable to sustain the load so unjiustly imposed on them, notwithstanding; the vigorous efforts they made to do so, Tracadic was settled by Captain Maedonald, with 300 High, landers, and the governor induced many exiled and other Acadians to establish them- selves in the island. In some instances, poor settlers were landed in different town- ships, far from any other inhabitants, without jn-oijcr provision being made for their imme- diate wants. Many, therefore, abandoned the place in disgust, and spread unfavourable reports of the colony, by which its settle- ment was greatly retarded. Another obstacle is said to have arisen from the proprietoi'a bcii .liable to grant that soecagc tenure nndii- the crown which is esteemed the most seeuvc. The colony progressed, however, thou ^h but slowly ; and as at the time of its bein-- erected into a separate government, the representative of the sovereign had been authorized to summon a general assembly whenever he should deem the island sufli- eicntly settled, Governor Patenson, in 1773, sil l4 1 f^i'^ l-\i ».,'W-« %. \,i \\\ (1 'il ■m |i lis 276 NOBLE CONDUCT OP GENJ3UAL WASHINGTON. called the first meeting of the Provincial Legislature. In November, 1775, two armed American cruisers, taking advantage of the defenceless state of the island, landed at Charlotte town, plundered it, and carried off the act- ing governor, a member of the council, and the surveyor-general; but on the commanders proceeding to the American head-quarters, they were rebuked by general Washington, told, they had " done those things which they ought not to have done, and left undone what it was their duty to have done," and dismissed from their command. The pri- soners were instantly set free, with many courteous expressions of regret for their sufferings, and the plundered property was entirely restored. It is a pleasing duty to record an act, so perfectly in unison with the noble character of Washington. In 1776, it being found that the few pro- prietors who paid their quit-rents did not contribute a sufficient sum to defray the expenses of the government, and the gover- nor being imwilling to proceed against the defaulters, who were generally persons of rank and influence in England, an applica- tion was made to parliament for an annual grant to defray the civil expenditui'c, which application was complied with. Both governor Paterson, and general Fan- ning in 1789, are accused of having greatly impeded the cultivation of the land, by en- deavouring to monopolize it, to the detriment of the settlers with whom they were con- stantly at variance. The late duke of Kent, then commander-in-chief of the North American colonies (where, at two different periods, he resided ten years) paid much attention to the island ; organized the forma- tion of some provincial troops, cavalry and inf' atry, and the erection of batteries tor the better protection of Charlotte town; the result of these precautions, was the preserva- tion of the colony, during the war, from any molestation. It was at this period that the name of the island having been found incon- venient, from being the same as those of the chief towns in New Brunswick and New- foundland, it was changed from St. John to Prince Edward, as a mark of grateful attach- ment to one who well deserved it. In Au- gust, 1800, the duke sailed for England, to the sincere regret of the North American colonists, in whose prosperity he had shown himself warmly interested. In 1801, tiio arrears of quit-rents amounted to £50,163, being, in many in»taticcii, considerably more than the towititliipa would have realised it put up by ouction. Government therefore deturininud to nctccpt a moderate composi- tion wliiuh Hhoitlil tall lightest on those who had mndo tho most efForta to settle their land, Tlio townahjp, whose proprietors were m nrreara for quit-rent, were accordingly divided into flvo classes: Ist. Those which had tho full number of people required by tho tormti of tho ori((inal grants, were only to pay four ymn' quit-rout, in lieu of all airears from 17(1!) to IHOl. 2nd. Tliose with half tho poj)uluti(m wcro to pay ffvo years' quit, rent, iu liou of (ill nrrcan. 3rd. 'Ihose with from 0, ({Uttrtor to half the stipulated num- ber, nine yeurii' quit-rent. 4th. Those with less than n quarter, twelve years' quit-rent ; and 6th. Tho owners of those which were wholly wft to and uninhabited, were called on to pay Hftoon years' quit-rent i. e., less than half the amount owed by them. Tho libornl terms of this composition, by freeing tho luttd from heavy claims, had an almost iuHtantanoous effect on the prosperity of tho inland, which made rapid strides in population and aooial comfort. Some propri- etors, nov the rise at full and change being nine feet, and at neap, four to five, with soundings of soft mud or strong clay. The town appears from the harboiu* to great advantage, the streets are broad, and regularly laid out at right angles, with five or six vacancies for squares; most of the private houses have neat gardens attached, and together with the public buildings, such as the Court-house (in which the Courts of Judicature, as well as the Legislative Assem- bly, sit), the Episcopal church, the New Scots Church, the Roman Catholic and Me- thodist chapels, excellent barracks, &c., give a decidedly prepossessing aspect to the capi- tal of this interesting colony. The Colonial Building in Charlotte town #4^ m n Bi- 278 . PRINCE'S AND QUEEN'S COUNTY TOPOGRAPHY. cost £14,500, was commenced in 1843, and is now finished. The island is almost naturally divided into three connties, viz.. Prince's on the W., Queen's in the middle, and King's on the E. Prince's county contains five parishes, viz.. North, Egmont; Halifax, Richmond, and St. David's, which comprise 467,000 acres, exclusive of a reservation of 4,000 acres for Prince town and royalty. It has several fine harbours; two on the N. shore are very valuable, as the winding coast forms a deep curve in which it is dangerous for vessels to be caught in a stiflf N.E. wind, in which the points of the island E. or W. cannot be cleared, and a ship must therefore run on shore, or else seek one of the large barred havens, into which two or three high seas will cast her safely. Richmond Bay, the largest in the island, is barred with a sand bank, over which there is from 12 to 15 feet water ; from its wide entrance and great extent (being 9 miles wide, and 10 miles deep), the centre part is of course unsheltered, but there are several inlets perfectly safe from all winds, with from 8 to 4 fathoms good anchorage. There are six beautiful islands in the bay, three of which have an area of 500 acres of good laud. Seven townships, containing 140,000 acres, abut on this bay, which has the advantage of a safe inland water communication along the coast, by means of Cavendish channel, with the fine hai'bour of Holland Bay to the N.W. On a fertile peninsula projecting from the eastern-coast of Richmond Bay, Prince town has been laid out, but the intended site is occupied by straggling farms. The settlers are chiefly of Scottish descent, many of them being the descendants of those from Cantyre, who settled with Judge Stew- art's family, and who retain the habits and superstitions that were formerly so prevalent in their native country, while the music, the songs, the tales of the Covenanters, and the ghost stories of Kirk Alloway have all the freshness of yesterday; indeed, it is not a little remarkable that many of the ancient customs and traditionary stories, now passiug away, and nearly forgotten in England, Ire- land, and Scotland, are religiously remem- bered and preserved in our colonies. The surrounding tract, failed the Royalty, is well cultivated. Lennox Island, situate oii the N.T/. of Richmond Bay, is the chief meeting place of the remnant of the Mic Mac Indians. Still further N., is Holland Bay, which is safely accessible, but narrowed by islands at its entrance ; its chief harbour, called Cas- cumpec, is extremely commodious, and well situated for the fisheries. Between this bay and that of Richmond, an extensive range ot sand mounds have been formed by the waves, between which and the main shore is a lagoon, eighteen miles in length, and from one to three hundred yards in breadth. The shores of the lagoon are uninhabited. The fertile land round Holland Bay, is culti- vated chiefly by Acadians, who have also a settlement called Tigniche, near the North Cape. From thence to West Cape there is no harbour except for boats; and a large portion of rich soil, though clothed with excellent timber, and watered by several fine streams, is still unoccupied. After passing West Cape, we arrive at Egmont Bay, which is sixteen miles wide and ten feet deep, with dangerous shoals off its entrance, and only affording shelter in N., N.E., or N.W. winds. On its eastern boundaiy are three Acadian villages. Halifax, or Bedeque Bay, is a spacious inlet, reaching nearly across to Rich- mond Bay on the opposite coast, — Wilmot and Webber Cove being only about five, miles apart. It has a fine harbour, well sheltered by a small island, and is increasing in impor- tance as a shipping port. The banks of the two small rivers which empty themselves into the harbour are populously settled, and there are several ship-bmlding establishments. Queen's County adjoins Prince's county on the S.E., and extends about 40 miles, embracing the whole width of the island. It contains five parishes — Grenville, Char- lotte, Bedford, Hillsborough, and St. John ; 486,400 acres being comprised in them, exclusive of the 7,300 reserved for Charlotte town and royalty. The N. coast of this country is extremely picturesque, but pos- sessing few harbours, except for schooners and small vessels; their names and positions will be sufficiently shewn in the map ; this portion of the coast is tolerably well settled, chiefly by Scotchmen and Acadians On Grenville Bay and the banks of its small tributaries, arc situated New London, Eliza- beth town, Campbel town, and other settle- ments; that of Cavendish, at the E. end of the bay, is remarkably flourishing. Har- rington, or Grand Rustico Bay, has a long narrow island across its entrance; on its shores are two Acadian villages, and on the banks of its tributary streams. Hunter and Wliately rivers, are some thriving settle- ments ■ one of these, called New Glasgow. TOPOGRAPHY OF KING'S COUNTY. 279 is peopled principally by emigrants from the city of that name. On Little Eustico, or Stanhope Cove, is a tract of very fertile land containing many extensive farms. Eastward to Bedford Bay, and from thence to Savage Island, the coast is more or less occupied by settlers principally of Scottish descent. The south coast of this county abounds in safe havens. Tryon village, nearly opposite Green Bay, or Bale Verte, in Nova Scotia, is one of the most populous and pleasantly situated places in the island. Crapaud and De Sable are also rather thriving settle- ments. On the eastern side of Hillsborough Bay is the district of Belfast, which includes the thriving villages of Great and Little Bel- fast, Orwell (on the hay of that name), Pownalls, Perth, Belle Creek, Wood Islands, and others, chiefly formed by Lord Selkirk's colony. King's County — comprises the eastern portion of the island, and is divided into four parishes. East, St. Patrick, St. George's, and St. Andrew's, which include 412,000 . "res, exclusive of the 4,000 acres reserved ''. George town and Royalty. The town d! jt has been laid out near the confluence of the Cardigan, Montague, and Brudenelle rivers, or rather on a peninsula formed by them, and although little progress has yet been made, its excellent harbour, good ''sheries, and advantageous position for trade a the Gulf of St. Lawrence, will probably render it a place of considerable importance. Tlie coast land from Savage Harbour (be- tween King's and Queen's county) to the Bay of St. Peter, is termed the Lake Settle- ment, from its bordering on a pond or lagoon, which has an outlet into the Gulf. The Bay of St. Peter, into which the river Morel falls, is about nine miles long, with a narrow mouth, and pierces the coast, forming the peninsula of Greenwich. The lands fronting the bay have been greatly improved by the Messrs. Worrel, who have built granaries, grist mill, and offices on a large scale. From Greenwich to East Cape, the whole line is without a harbour. It is called the District of the Capes, and is well culti- vated by settlers from Scotland and the Hebrides, who raise large and valuable crops of wheat, barley, &c. Oa the east shore are Colvillc, RoUo, Fortune, Howe, ai-d Bough- ton Bays, all small harbours with thriving settlements of Highlanders and Acadians. We have now reached Cardigan Bay, on which George town, the intended chief town of the district is situated. It receives (as before mentioned) three rivers, of which, however, the largest does not flow above twelve miles, and forms a spacious harbour, with a deep and safe entrance. Panmure Island, situated at the entrance of the har- bour, contains 800 acres of excellent land. In St. George's parish are several safe but small havens, all more or less sand-barred. St. Andrew's, at the mouth of the Montague, is a rising village. Murray Bay, in the parish of St. Andrew's, aflbrds a well shel- tered harbour, with a rather intricate entrance. Ships, brigs, and schooners are built here. The soil around is very fertile, but has not been many years under cultiva- tion. The foregoing brief description is sufficient to show how admirably adapted Prince Edward Island is for carrying on an extensive fishery, while its level surface, abundantly irrigated, renders it equally favourable to the pursuits of agriculture, and with its singularly salubrious climate, make the little island an attractive spot to intending emigrants. Geology. — Prince Edward Island is a pas- toral country — neither limestone, gypsum, coal, nor iron, have yet been discovered, but in many places the earth and rivulets are deeply impregnated with metallic oxides; the soil is in general a Ught reddish loam — in some places approaching to a tolerably strong clay — in most districts more or less sandy, but where the latter inclines to a dark colour, it is very fruitful. Red clay for bricks, and white for common pottery purposes, are met with in abundance. The predominating rock is a reddish sandstone, but occasionally, blocks of granite are met with ; in fact, the whole island seems to have been left dry in latter ages by the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The following is an abstract of the geolo- gical survey of the island by Dr. Gesner, which, although long, is too valuable to admit of further curtailment : — " HillsboroKgh Bay is an expanded sheet of water, situated between St. Peter's Island and Point Prim. It embraces three lesser bays, and receives a number of rivers. Of the latter, Hillsborough, York, and Elliot, or North River, are the most important These, when united, form the harbour of Charlotte town, the capital of the island, which stands upon the extre- mity of a peninsula at the junction of these three Rtrcams. At this place the survey was commenced, and the descriptions will be given in the order in which they were made. " The rocks are most advantageously examined in this Quarter at the entrance of the harbour, which is only naif a mile wide. They here present perpen- dicular cliib from 10 to 20 feet in height ; they are I f 280 GEOLOGY OF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. frequently undermineil by the wav^s and currcntii, and are sometimes seen in heape of (UMa that have fallen on the beaches. All these rocks belonc to an ex- tensive group of red sandstones that form tne basis of ; the island, and also appear on the neighbouring coasts of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. At the mouth of the harbour they consist of brick-red sandstones, micar ;i sandstones, gray sandstones, marly clny, and shales. The general direction of the strata is E. >5id V/., and the dip is from 10 to 15' N. The strata are covered by debris from those rocks, some- times to the depth of 20 feet The soil is also red, and frequently underlaid by a subsoil of stiff red clay. "The shores of east, north, and west rivers are seldom bounded by cliffs, but descend gradually to the water, being frequently skirted by tracts of peaty ground, salt marsh, and a mixed alluvium ; the rocka are similar to those above-mentioned ; and a section taken near the Indian encam^a>ent,at the mouth of the west river, corresponds with others taken several miles farther westward. Reposing directly -ipon the rocks, there are frequently thick deposits o jiay. One of these occurs opposite the town, near the Ferry Wharf, and on the property of Mrs. Desbrisay, and. is very favourably situated for an extensive manufacture of bricks. In this district, and at many other places, a black porous sandstone, containing lignite, was ob- served ; from its colour, and the presence of lignite, it has been supposed by some to be an indication of coal, but it seldom accompanies that important mineral.^ " Outside of the harbour of Charlotte town, eastward, th( nliffs are from 30 to 40 feet high, or thus : dilu- vium, 14 ; red sandstone, 10 ; conglomerate limestone, 4 ; red and chocolate sandstones, 8 = 36 feet Con- glomerate limestone occurs near the entrance of Charlotte Town harbour both eastward and westward of the Blockhouse. At the before-mentioned cliff it foms a strata between the sandstones. It resembles the common conglomerate of the coal group, being apparently a collection of small pebbles cemented together ; but instead of quartzose or flinty pebbles, the nodules of the limestone and the cementing mat- ter contain carbonate of lime. A piece of this rock, of medium purity, yielded of 100 parts— carbonate af lime, £8; silicious residuum, 44 = 112. The lime- stone at this place is therefore sufficiently pure for the purposes of agriculture, but its situation is unfavour- able for quarrying any great quantity. A thin stratuM of white and compact limestone appears at Bellevue, on the farm of Mr. Charles Hazard. At Lobster Point strata aro again seen in a bold cliff, and dipping N.N.E. at an angle of 4°. From the soil downwards to low-water mark, they are as follows :— diluvium, 6^ red sandstone, 6 ; red shale, 6 ; red sandstone, ft ; red marly clay, 5 ; sandstone, 6 = 37 feet " From Lobster Point to Gallows Point the shore is low, and the mouths of the rivers and creeks are bordered by tracts of marsh, and the shores of the bay are lined with sandy beaches. Tea-hill, an eminence in a ridge of elevated land already noticed, discloses at several places rocks similar to those just named. Between the hill and Orwell Bay, and embracing the fronts of Lots 49 and 50, a large tract occupied by flourishing villages and bordered by marshes, is very low t mucn of the soil lias been .mproved by the allu- vium brought down bv small streams that descend from the higher grounds. Marsh alluvium, or marsh mud and peat are abundant, and may be cheaply applied as compost manure. "Oovernor's Island, in Hillsborough Bay, is situated about five miles from the main land of which it once formed a port, the intervening land having been removed by the operations of the sea. At low tides the separating channels are still very narrow and shallow. The island contains upwards of 190 acres of excellent soil, a part of which is still covered by the original forest " The rocks of Oovernor's Island are different in their character from those just noticed, and from a few fossils contained in them, they appear to belong to the coal-field of the apposite coast They are com- pact gray sandstones, conglomerate, red and blue shales, marls, nnd limestones. Pieces of copper ore have been found on the N. side of Governor s Island. Upwards of 20 lbs. of the ore was obtained — the best samples contain 40 per cent, of pure copper. The site of the ore was once occupied by a tree which has been fossiled by copper, and the vegetable texture, of the wood can still be traced in the compart cupreous masses. " Orwell, or Gallows Point, ib a small peninsula between Pownal Bay and Orwell Bay. At its western extremity it is composed of rocks belonging to a coal formation — they are coarse and dne micaceous sand- stones, conglomerates, red, white, and blue shulea, fire clay, and blue compact, and conglomerate lime- stones. The general direction of the strata is IV.N.E. 8% but both are very variable, and the beds have evi- dently been much (ustuified — at one place, a fault of four feet was observed. These "ocks form a low indented cliff upon the shore, being; covered by six feet of diluvium. Near the Point, a conglomerate limestone, like that of Governor's Island, appears near high-water mark, and thin strata of that rock occur in the clifll This Umestone also appears on the farms of Mr. Young and Mr. Mutch, wnere it gradually rises to the surface and becomes a compact biue rock, in a stratum from four to six feet in thickness. It is well situated for being quarried, and the limestone is of A good quality. " The sandstones and conglomerates of the Point contain the remains of trees and other plants charac- teristic of the coal meacurcs. The trees are all pros- trate in and between the strata ; the original bark has been changed into coal, and the woody parts of the trunks are now seen in masses of sandstone, iron ore, or sulphate of barytes; in the latter, the vegetable flhire still remains distinct They are quite different from any of the trees now growing upon the island. A very thin seam of coal was found in the face of the cliff, in which there is also a small quantity of tlie sulphate of barytes associated with iron ore. " The rocks of this imperfect coal-field were traced eastward into tiie country upwards of four miles, where they seem to terminate, or thev are succeeded by the red sandstones or marls. At tbe extremity of Gallows Point, and opposite a low tract of neaty ground, there is a submerged forest: upwards of Uuee acres are occupied by stumps and roots of the spruce, fir, and hemludi, which are covered by every tide, being from 4 tu 8 feet below high-water mark. It is certain that these trees g:rew upon the spot where they are now seen, as their roots and the soil that nourished them are all present: their trunks have been broken down by the ice, and at low water the tract resembles the clearing of the new settler. From a variety of facts, it is probable that there has been a submergence of the land itself, of which there are proofs in different parts of the island. The rocks of tnt) coal formation at Orwell Bay are succeeded by the red sandstones, which on the south side of tht It once ng been )w tides row and 00 acres vered by ferent in , from a to belong ore com- and blue jpper ore r^ Island, —the best per. The which has texture, of t cupreous peninsula its western g to a coal ;eous sand- lue shales, ^rate lime- » is N-N-E. Is have evi- e, a fault of icrm ft low sred by six jnglomcrate ippears near ; rock occur on the farms it gradually !t Wue rock, tnesa- It is tie limestone )f the Point lants charac- are all pros- iriginal nark ody parts of :idstone, iron jie vegetable uite different 1 the island, le face of the intity of tlie ore. i were traced f four miles, i ire succeeded extremity of ract of peaty I * upwaras of j I roots of the I ?red by every ■water mark, ion the spot 3 and the 8o;l their trunks . at low water e new settler, that there has which there „ The rocks succeeded by Lh side of tht GEOLOOICAL SECTIONS OP 1 RINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 281 d. nay form perpondiculor cliffs fi'nm M tn 70 feet liigh. The strata run enst nnd west, willi ii m'ncnil dip south of 15^1 ihi'y nro coamu tirid tinu ri-d saml stones, red shnlcs nnd rnnrly cliiy, " At Point Prim, nnd tlioncu to Dat Ilivor. Belle Creek, and Wood Isliinds, the coiiM is low, niul often bordered by shiiiplo hpiicliiis. !'i'i\t swamps nro nu- merous. The soil, having roMulled IVom iho disin- tegration of the rooks, is red i still thorn nro small patches of white sand, the forlilily of which might ne much improved from the nh\mdnnt supplies of marsh nnd mus.sel mud situntud along llie sides of the rivers, creeks, and inlets, Houlhwnril of the Wood Islands, nnd at Hiirnt Woods, tlio eliffs of sand- stone nnd red marl will averngo .iA feet in lieiglit. Tlie direction of the strata is K„ !l'2' H., ilip. N, IMt', K. W. Near the residence of Mr. W, lu Lnclirur small quantities of mnngnneso ore were seen in the soil. Near Hear Cape there is u cnlleotion of pent exijosed to the sea. "The shore on the 15. side of Colville Rny was evidently inhabited in former duys by thn native Indians; and, from the ehiirncter or llieir relies, they appear to have been Miemacs, the descentlonts of whom are .still upon the island, These relies consist of axes, spears, and arrow points, and riido pots made of stone ; barbed fish-bones, which they t mployed in fishing, are also found. Some of the arrow heads are made of Labrador felspar, ngates, linrnstnne, and jasper. The felspar is identienl with that f dihipiilution of the coast is very rapid. Sortenet! by melenrie agents, and expanded by the IVosis of winter, im- mense masses iall in the sj)ring, nnd the shore is covered by dehna, which is soon lirokiMi up and •'o- movcd by the waves, tlio snnd beini; thrown inwards upon the land by gales of wind. Most of the strain on this shore are similar to those of the nppnsile const — indeed they are the same strata ponhnued across the island. The following seeliiin was fnUen in ,St. Patrick's parish i — diluvium, descending Ijl feet; fine red sandstone, 11 j red shnleH, with their kmins of white limestone, 7i reil ninily elay, R i red sandstones, 4; coarse red enndslones, H| conglome- rate, 12 = Ca feet. " St. Peter's Bny is n nnrrow liiil deep indentntion, nnd a safe harbour. Its moulh is nroleeled by n chain of sandhills, having a narrow cliannel between them that is capable if admitting hii'ge ships nl cer- tain times of tides. These sniidhills resemblo the cones of extinct volcanoes ; thoy are liable to ponstanl change, and were they not envereil with bent grnss, tliey would be luuch moi'o llul)le to di'ih awiiy before the winds than they nre at present. Near the mouth of the bay, a forest of hard wood, consisting of beech, birch, and maple, has been buried liv the drifting ; sands; the ancient channel of tlie river hus been lllled I VOL, I. up I and the wharfs built liy the Frencli, who were thb first civilised inhabititnts, have nil been buried in the shifting shingle. An opening formed by the sea luring a gale, exposed a thick bed of oyster-shells nnd a number of Indian relics. " The turnpike between St. Peter's and Charlotte Town passes over and between a number of diluvial f [ravel ly mounds, frequer.ily called by American geo- ogists ' saddle-backs. They are proofs of the former txistcnce of powerful currents of water that have passed over the island iirevious to its elevation above the sea. Boulders of granite, sienite, trap, and other rocks nre scattered over the surface of tne southern division of the is'and, although they are less nume- rous here than i\ity are farther north. " The red sands tones, shales, and marly clay are again exposed at Covo Head, near the entrance f.r Little Kustico ; ttiey also ap])ear at a number of localities at Grand Uustico and Hunter River. Great qiinntitics of oyster and other shells are found upon the banks of the rivers and sides of the bays : they re sometimes six feet in thickness, and arc covered oy a soil containing much i)hosphate of lime. The reparation of all the bivalve sliells, nnd the rude in- struments nnd even skeletons found in tliese deposits, show that they were made by the savages. " At the fine settlement on the banks of Glasgow river the lands become more elevated, and they are broken by deep ravines, or narrow gorges. The rocks in this district, and on parts of the parishes of Orenville and Charlotte nre chiefly coarse calcareous sandstones. The soil is a bright red clayey loam, and highly productive. The elevated ridges of wild land nre covered with mnjcstic forests of the hnrd woods. From New London Haitiour to Itichmond Bay the distance along the coast is about ten miles. The shore is again fronted by perj)cndiculnr cliffs from •10 to CO feet high, called the ' Capes.' The rocks are thick and shelly strata of red and chocolate-coloured sandstones, with their beds of clay, and occasionally streaks of white limestor.e ; the dip is very variable, nnd at mnny ]daces the beds are horizontal. " Snnd-hills extend from llog Island to Indian Island, and tlience to Holland Harbour, or Cas- cumpec, the whole distance being upwards of 20 milts. They are only interrupted by the cliannel to Por^ Hill nnd Cavendish inlet, and forming a barrier between the upland and the sea, thev effectual'/ pre- vent the washing nway of the soil Iiy the tides and waves. Between this barrier of sand and the main shoie tliere is a beautiful lagoon, averaging a quarter of a mile wide, and with sufticient water to allow bonts and cnnoes to pass. While the sea outside is ngitnted by gales, the water of the lagoon remains tranquil, nnd offers a safe and easy channel of com- muiucalion. The shore side of the lap;oon is skirted by small innrshes, nnd the sea-wall side by beaches nnd collections of alliiyium, wliich, at the time of my visit, were occupied by great numbers of plover, herons, ducks, and other kinds of birds. The sand- hills nre covered by bent grass, which protects them from the influen.e of the wind. This grass is some- times mowed, aid employed by the inhabitants for fodder. At the entrance of the lagoon, and occa- sionnlly throughout its whole length, there are boul- ders, some of which will weigh ten tons. They nre forced towards tin; shore by an expansion of the ice during tlie sever • cold of winter. The rocks, wher- ever they were observed, do not differ from tho.sc niready described, but, in consequence of the shore iieing very low, only a few of the most superficial 2o I il'. 282 PEAT HOGS— ALLUVIUMS.— PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. strata can be seen. A few families are settled on the side of the lagoon, hut the surface of the country generally in an unhroken wilderness. At one situa- tion the hard wood forest is seen standing upon the very margin of the salt water. The sen hns llowcd in among the beech, birches, and ma])le8, by which they have been killed, and large pieces of drifted wood were observed among the decaying groves of the upland. " On" of t* ■^ most remarkable circumstances in reg""' tbf jeology of the island was observed at Casi ,«'' nar jour. On the south side of the bay then' is a jieat bog called the ' Ulack Bank,' reaching three miles along the shore, and containing nearly •2,000 square acres. It reposes directly upon the red sandstone and marly clay, and is froni ten to twenty feet in thickness. This bog, with all its decayed spagneous plonts, is of fresh-water origin. 'Iwo groves of spruce and fir were observed to bo buried in it at dinerent levels, and their trunks and roots may be seen projecting from the bank. Tlie peat is of excellent quality, and will, in the course ot time, be valuable. " This deposit now forms one of the shores of the harbour, and at high water its lower part is seven feet beneath the level of the sea ; it is constantly being washed away, and masses of it are seen scat- tered along the borders of the lagoon. At low water the side next to the bay is partially drained, so that tUo plants from which the pent has been derived have ceased to grow, and a part of the surface is quite dry. "It is not improbable tliat the site of this jieat-bog was once a lake which was gradually filled up by the growth and decay of the mosses and other plants ; but if the lake had been below the common sea level, the tide would have found its way into it through the channel necessary to give exit to the streams coming ill from the adjacent lands. Under such circum- stances the mosses, spruce, fir, &c. could never have flourished, as sea-wpter desti'oys them; nor is it pro- bable that this bog moved forwards like a glacier into the sea, from having the barrier between it and the gulf washed away. It is now as high as the sur- rounding land, and does not repose upon an inclined plane, over which it coulu move. The water of Cas- cumpec harbour is deep, and the shore is so bold opposite Savage Island, and near the residence of Messrs. W. and C. Woodman, that shijis may lay afloat alongside of the land; yet, the surface of the earth is scarcely elevated s^ven foet above the toj) of a medium tide. From a vmu'iv of tacts that might be quoted, it appears quite evident that parts of the island have been, within a comparatively re- cent ncriod, submerged, while, perhaps, others may have been elevated. " The evidences of elevation of different parts of the shores of the Gulf- of St. Lawrence are evident from the collections of recent shells found in clay and marl beds now situated from 10 to 200 foil upwards above the present level of tlie ocean. In a very interesting pajjcr, addressed by Captain Uay- field to Mr. Lyelf, and jmblished by the Geological Society of London, in 1839, this elevation of the land is stated to extend far up the river St. Lawrence. Besides this uplifting of the land af numerous places in Uritish America, there has been a sinking down of the surface ut certain localities; or, as it is understood by geologiits, there has been a beiuling of the crust of the enrth, by which sonn.- ])liices have been elevated and ot-hcrs depressed— llie ele- vation having, as it is supposed, exceeded the depres- sion. " Admitting, then, that the tract of country where tlie above peat-bog is situated was lowered, the sea would immediately have extended its bounds, over- flowed a part of the country, and finally have its margin uiion the border of this bog. Savage Island, composed of red sandstone and diluvium, is still above tlie water, and the waves have raised a bar of sand, which the winds have since lifted into a ridge tliat is now stretched across the mouth of the bay. " Between Westmoreland and Hillsborough Bay the lands are clcvat«d, being occasionally broken by steep hills and deep ravines. Near the mouths of Tryon, Brokelby's, Itice, and Allan Coves, and between the latter and l"'ort Amherst, there are per- pendicular cliffs from 40 to 60 feet high. These cliffs are also composed of the red sandstones, shales, and conglomerates, with conglomerate limestone. The following section was taken between St. Peter's and Allan's Cove: — diluvium 8 feet; conglomorate 4; red sandstone 10; red shale and marly clay G; im- pure limestone 1 ; red sandstone 2; conglomerate limestone 4 = 3 j feet. " The course of the strata is N.E., with a general dip of 5' N.AV. From the facts that have been noticed, nn.l others that might bs intro'-.iced, it ap- pears very evident that, excepting the coal-field at Callow's Point and the trcp-rocks of Hog Island, IVince Edward Island consists of groups of red sandstone, the strata of which have been already described. " Alluriums are produced by causes that are daily operating upon the surface of the earth. Frost, snow, rain, chaiiffcs of temperature, &c., all tend to disintcg- ratethe hardest rock, and finelydiyided mineral matter isconstantly carried downwanls by the shower, as well as by tlie flood, from the hills into the valleys, and spread along the borders of the streams by the over- flowing of their waters. The sediment thus produced may be called the alluvium of rivers. Again, by the constant operations "f the tides and waves of the sea, the shores are worn away, the sands of the sandstones and pebbles of the conglomerates are disunited and spread out in beaches, while the fine particles of clay and marl, from being mixed with the water, are transported to great distances, ond finally thrown into the river mouths and estuaries, where they form estuaries of the sea. " The alluvium of rivers and the alluviums of the sea, are often mixed on the coasts, the one being lirought downwards by the fresh, and the latter in- wards by the salt water. Such alluvial matter, when- ever it is sufficiently drained, is the richest of natural soils, and, by being mixed with the sandy uplands, it will, in all ordinary cases, greatly increase their fer- tility. Alluvial deposits arc very numerous on Prince Edward Island. At the extremity of Eginont Bay there is an alluvial tract of 2,000 acres. At Bedequc, lot 42, parish of St. Patrick, and other places, such tracts are also extensive. As the tides only recede a few feet, it is not probable that these tracts can be re- claimed by dikes, or embankments, yet they may bo greatly improved even in their present condition, and they are valuable for the natural grass they produce for hay. I'eut is formed by the growth of sphagneous or mossy plants. Ponds, lakes, and low tracts arc fre- <|uently filled by the ])roductive powers of v(f;ct,itioii. The mosses first begin to grow around the shores; SUBMERGED FOKESTS, AND IMMENSE BOULDERS. 28:i each Bucceetliii{» Reason yields a new crop ; tlic pre- ceding one haviii(f been buiicd beneath the water, wlicrn it is preserved from decoiTi|)ositioM, niid tlii.s process is carried forward until tlie lake or pond is filled. These plants will also close up the outlets by which the water makes its escaiie from low tracts. The result is the forminij of ponds, and, as forest trees cannot crow in situations where their roots are constantly submerj^ed, they decay, fall, and are finally buried in the peat, which spreads its annual layer even over the surface of the water. No sooner is the accumulation thus produced raised so hijih that there is not sufficient moisture on the surface to nourish the peat-forming plants, than the whole process is terminated, and the site becomes a barreii waste. Peat bogs are numerous on the island, but, in gene- ral, they are small. The most extensive of tliem is at Cascunipec harbour. It contains 2,000 acres. These bogs will supply a useful article for compost manure, and afford fuel, should it ever be required. " A Marly Clay is found interstratified with the sandstones; it sometimes contains ten per cent, of lime. Its value for manure may be tested by the application of a few drops of muriatic acid, the quan- tity of lime present will he indicated by the briskness of the effervescence. It will be useful when a])plied to light and sandy soils, which the clay will render retentive of moisture. " Boy Iron Ore ; or. Hydrous Peroxide of Iron. — This ore appears in the soil, and in bogs at many places. It has evidently been washed from the soil, to whicli it imparts the colour of the rust of iron. " Several deposits of tl"- hydrutid oxide of iiiaiiya- ncse, or black wad, are noticed i tl'.ey have been col- lected by a process "''nilur to tha l)y whicli bog ore is produced. By t' islntegratiim of rocks contain- ing manganese, t\ .c is set at liberty and waslied by rains into shu.iow basins on the surface. It is frequently found associated with the hydrous per- o.xide of iron, and mixed w itii clay. " The remains of ancient forests, now submerged beneath the sea, are not uncommon on the coasts of North America. Tlie trees are such as usually grow on low land, and with them poat sonietiinea occurs. Several sunken forests are mentioned in Professor Hitchcock's Geology of Massachusetts. During the geological survey of New Urunswick, I discovered a submerged forest on the south side of tlie island of Grand Manan. At different localities in Nova Scotia there ap|)ears to have been a subsidence of the land. At Prince Edward Island this remarkable fact may be seen at Gallows Point, hut more especially at Cascumjiec, where, with a forest, a large peat hog is now. beneath the level of the sea. >lany theories have been proposed to account for such phenomena ; yet it is probable that they can only be explained but by referring them to movements wliicli are known to take [ilaco in the crust of the earth, whereby certain tracts are elevated and others are depressed. j " Dunes ijr Saiulhilh. — During storms the sand of the shore is often thrown up by the spray, and not withdrawn by the reHux of tlu wave, and having been dried by the heat of the sun, it is drivi n in- wards upon the land by winds, and forms consider- able elevations. Such hills are called dunes, for which the borders of the Nile arc celebrated. Chains of such hills arc stretched across the mouths of nearly all the bays of the eastern coast of the island, where they form harbours with narrow channels, and con- tribute much to the beauty of tlic scenery. The sand is also blown upon the uplandi!, where it sometimes, by its constant a''cunuilati()n, proves to be a serious injury t GEOLOGY OF PRINCE EDWAilD ISLAND. it is 100 miles witle. Resides tlio boulders of igneous rocks among the drift at C'rnpniid, there ure pieces of large fossil trees, like those of the strata, belonging to the coal-field of New Urunswick. I'liejo may have been imported from any part of the district between Buy Verte and Point Sliscou, and OTer distances from 20 to 100 miles; certain it is they do not belong to tlie island, and therefore they are properly referred to the nearest rocks which contain fossil plants of a similar kind. Several theories have been proposed to explain the phenomena of boulders. Formerly, by many they were ascribed to the effects of the deluge recorded m the Mosaic history; but it is now known that causes are still in operation whereby they might have been transported. Mere recently an opinion lias prevailed that they were moved by currents of water at that period when the districts where they arc found were submerged beneath the sea. Still it is not probable that aqueous currents could ever have carried the boulders across the deepest sea channels to opposite shores, and up steep acclivities, even to the summits of mountains. I)y such causes masses of rock, gravel, sand, &c. are daily urged for vi.rd by the currents of rivers, but they do not afford satis- factory evidence that the boulders and diluvial drift, found under the above-mentioned circumstances, have been removed from their native situations to their present sites by the unaided operations of water. " If we look to causes that are still active upon the earth, it will be observed that ice performs a most important part in the transportation of mineral mat- ter. The immense icebergs and sheets that are annu- ally formed in almost all the bays, rivers, and estuaries of the North American coast, embrace fragments of rocks, gravel, sand, drift-wood, and every thing that was in contact with them at the time of their conge- lation. In the spring, when by the heat of the sun the ice begins to dissolve, it is loosened from the shores, lifted by the spring tides, and carried by cur- rents out to sea, or to other shores, with many of the materials it laid hold of during the months of intense cold. 1 have observed, also, that where the ice, loaded with boulders, is forced over the Kurfacen of rocks, they leave parallel grooves in the direction of the currents like those that occur on the faces of the strata now elevated far above the sea. " This natural mode of transportation is carried on in a greii' r lesser degree from the high latitudes where icuiji j^'s are formed, to the south, where water only freezes to the deptli of a few inches ; as the warmth of the spring or summer incrtases, and the ice dissolves, the transported rocks, sand, and gravel are liberated, and they fall to the bottom of the sea, are lodged upon its borders, or on the shores of the bays, inlets, and rivers. Minerals peculiar to the coast of Labrador are therefore found on the shores of Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Prince lidward Island, and on the Atlantic side of Nova Scotia. The rocks on tlie (Julf of St. Lawrence arc carried to opposite shores, and thousands of boulders drop annui-lly from the ice to the bottoms of the baya, and are scatterod along the coasts. I found blocks of red sandstone of the head of the Bay of Fundy, at the wcsteui extremif of Grand Manan, tlic distance between the two sites being upwards of 170 miles. The trap- rocks on the south side of the Bay of Fundy are exchanged for the slotes and griiuwaeke of New Brunswick, the distance between them being from 40 to 70 miles. Tlie sandstones of Cumberland arc sometimes brought into the basin of Mines ; and manufactured j;' iiulistones were idintified, a few years ago, that had been brought from the former to the latter place, a distance of 140 miles, in masses of ice. " It will be admitted by every practical geologist, that the chief part of tlie stratified rocks of North America have uecn formed beneath the aea, a fuct cstablislicd by the numerous remains of marine ani- mals contained in them. Long since these rocks were consolidated they have been submerged, as may be proved by the recent shells now found in beds of marl and clay several hundred feet above the level of the sea. That Prince Fdwurd Island has been raised from beneath the wotcrs of the gulf, few will doubt who carefully examine its valleys and beds of dilu- vium. Guided by much corroborative testimony, a part of which has been referrt>d to as briefly as pos- sible, I cannot refrain from expressing my opinion that the boulders of Prince Edward Island have been brought hither by ice during that period when its surface was beneath the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. " Diluvium. — At many situations on the island, there are beds of small rounded stones, gravel, and sand, varying from 5 to 60 feet in thickness. These collections of detritus often form chains of oval hills, and skirt the flanks of the valleys in such a manner as to impress the mind with the belief that they were thrown up by the agency of water. Indeed, the stra- tification of the gravel and sand which appears occa- sionally, renders it quite evident that currents of water have been active agents in their accumulation ; yet, many of these superficial deposits bear no marks of stratihcation. By an examination of the materials of these deposits, it will be observed that the rocks ind minerals of which the fragments are composed do not belong to their present sites, being different in their characters from any of the strata of which the island is composed. Their origin and situation may therefore be properly ascribed to the same causes that ti-ansported the erratic boulders. The melting of large masses of stranded ice loaded with gravel and sand, leaves mounds and elevations upon the present shores, and the hills of unstratified diluvial detritus may therefore be accounted for by referring them to the melting of stranded ice during the boulder period. The appearance of such deposits would be much modified by the operations of currents of water, w hieh have evidently opened many valleys, and spread the gravel out in strata. "Another kind of diluvium is composed of pieces of red sandstone, red sandstone and clay, which in general repose upon the solid strata beneath. This debris has been derived from the red sandstones and shales of the island, and affords a more fertile soil than the imported variety. It is frequently mixed with the foreign drift, beneath which its principal beds are situated." Climate. — All who have ever visited the island can bear testimony to the salubrity of its climate, which is neither so cold in winter nor so hot in summer as that of Lower Canada, while it is free from the fogs which spread alon|j; the shores of Cape Breton and Nova Scotia. One hundred years of ngc, without ever knowinj^ a day's sickness, is frequent in the island; the air is dry and bracing ; the dist^ases of the North AmericiUi continent are unknown, diid puny British emigrants attain, soon after their arrival, CLIMATE OF PUINCE EDWARD ISLAND. POPULATION. 285 robust health and unwoutcd strcnj^h. No pcr.wn ever suw an intermittent fever pro- duced on tlic island — pulmonary consump- tion, so frequent in north and central America, is Hcldom met with — the greater proportion of the colonists live to old age, 90 to 100, and then die by a gradual decay of nature ; deaths between twenty and fifty are very rare — accidents even included. It has been estimated that not one person in fifty inhabitants dies throughout the year ; industry always secures a comfortable sub- sistence, and encourages early marriages; the women are often grandmothers at forty, and the mother and her daughters may each be seen with a child at the breast at the same time. Such is the liappy condition of this simple and hospitable people, whose pros- pects are so far superior to that of their less fortunate brethren in England. Mr. S. S. Hill, in his interesting "Short Account of Prince Edward Island," thus de- scribes the climate : — " The clirnato of I'rince Edwnrd Inland is highly favourable to the pursuita of agriculture. It (Utfers from that of Eiigland in the winter more than at any otlier season. Tlic unwholesome and damp chills of an English winter are unknown in the island ; and the diseases which a moist atmosphero originates, are uncommon at any time. The cold is more severe, and endures for a longer period ; so that for about four months, all ngriculturid jiursuits, properly so called, are of necessity suspended. But this is not of so much moment as to materially affect those interests which are connected with the soil; for the winter is l)Oth shorter and less severe in the island, than in those countries on the ISaltic which export agricultural produce, and whose inhabitants are (or the most part engaged in the rural occupations. The days too are considerably longer at tliat season in the island, than in those countries, wiiieh is material, both as to health and to labour. " In the beginning of June, the summer bursts forth J and the natural forest, ])resenting to the eye every variety of vegetation, and filling the air witli the fragrant j)erfunies of the native herbs of tiie island, gives abundant evidence of the fertility of the soil; and at the same time affords an opportunity lor the lovers of nature to gratify their enthusiasm, or indulge their taste for contemplative enjoyment. The brilliancy of a sununer night in the vicinity of the bays, cannot be surpassed by that which the finest climates under heaven exhibit. The wind is usually still, and the smooth surface of the v.ater reflects the splendid lights of the firmament ; and wherever the current runs, the fishes are heard sporting in the stream ; and on tiie shore, whole acres are sometimes illuminated by the fire-flies, which emit flashes of light as they sport in the air; and now and then a torch is seen displayed at the bow of the canoe of some Indian engaged in spearing the eels. " From this time, until the middle or the end of September, tlie climate resembles that of the southern coiust of England. The thermometer, occasionally, during calm weather, shows a greater degree of heat liian we experience in this country ; but the sea breeze seldom fails to lower the temperature, by the time the sun reaches the zenith, so that no incotive- nience thence arises. But during the prevalence of the south-west winds, throughout the greater pnrt of July, August, and September, the thermometer stands pretty steadily at from 73° to 80' of Fahrenheit during the mid-hours of the day ; and, at night, tht air is soft, wholesome, and agreeable. " The hay harvest commences about the middle of July) and the white crops are usually cut between the middle and the last of August. About the middle of September the evenings begin to get cool, and the BUtums properly commences. Nothing can exceed the beauty or the healthiness of this season of the year. The atmosphere is exceedingly rarificd, and the deep azure of the clear sky reflects a darker shade upon the waters; while tlio forests, as they change from the rich green of summer to the thoii- sand autumnal tints which the variety of their kinds exhibit, present scenery unsurpassed in beauty, or in the hojies of future plenty which they inspire, by any thing to be met with in the old or new world. "Tho. Aurora Borealis, though common at all timf s of the year, is, during '.he early part of autumn, more splendid than at any other season. It some- times i.|)pears like the reflection of the lights of this great m-itropolis upon the sky, when seen from a dis- tance upon a clea' night; but it often covers the whole con'pass of heaven, and in red, blue, green, and yellow streams, illumines the wide expanse; and changing it" colours as it continimlly flashes across the flrmamcnt, presents a spectacle unrivalled by any other phenomenon which nature anywhere displays. Population. — We have no correct estimate of the progressive increase of the population; when taken from the French the island is supposed to have contained 6,000 Acadians ; a great number of whom were afterwards removed. In 1802 the number of inhabi- tants -was — males, 10,(514; females, 10,007; total, 20,051 : in 1822, males, 12,140; females, 12,460; total, 24,600: in 1825, males, 14,110; females, 14,400; total 28,600: in 1827. males, 11,970; females, 11,290; total, 23,266: in 1833, males, 16,840; females, 15,452; total, 32,292. In 1841, total popuhation, 47,034; in 1849-50, about 55,000. Scotchmen form more than one- half of the whole population. The Acadian Frcueli are estimated at 5,000; but of the ^lic-mac, or native Indians, there arc pro- bably not more than thirty families on the island. In 1841, the natives of England amounted to 2,650; of Scotland, 5,681 ; of Ireland, 5,193; of the British colonies, 1,755; of other countries, 191; and of Prince Edward Island, 31,561. Persons in connection with the church of England, 5,707; with the church of Scotlaiul, 10,006; with prcsby- teriiins of Prince Edward Island, 5,089; with church of Roaic, 20,130; nicthodists, 3,421; baptists, 1,609; other denominations, 772. The folowing complete census in 1841 shows in detail the state of the island : — (} '■4 »i r 1 1 1 886 POPULATION OF EACH TOWNSHIP— MALE ANl FEMALE. 1 Qintiu of the Pojtuhition of Prince Edieard Island, taken in the Year \M\, under ilu> autlwrity of the Act oj 4lh Victoria, Cup. 3, VvHtn uf TowMHir. Males. FlMALU. .a 1 Is II 1 = a ■Si II g'S c § So 1 1 .J i •s 1 s iff a 1 •s II £ e 1 '■i c i r 1 1 3 e 3 3 i It i ■s 1 3 2 •S S •3 1 u. a e 1 1 u. U 1 1 a 1 3 V l^h 1 » 1 >> ^ 1 1 ^ < One I9« 149 27 17 219 191 14 11 1 783 1 763 81 621 J7i 1 11 Two 8 49 la 6 71 4'J 10 e 280 6 1!) 69 99 93 7 40 18 19 ,K( 189 37 Eight . . 4.1 31 6 a 91 35 2 6 179 6 23 M 77 24 ,. 21 11 23 1 134 lOl .. 1 1 Nine . it 24 4 1 27 29 9 118 1 ., 117 ,, 6 93 69 ,. 1 Ten . II 7 1 1 111 •1 1 39 24 11 ,, 3 1 4 26 1 „ 1 Eleven . 1J 411 II a 69 38 9 1 294 88 13 30 117 6 5 « 76 162 »' ■• Twelve . 91 23 9 a 4!l 23 4 197 inn 40 6 A ,, 9 20 1 4 129 71 .. Thirteen 81 ini 17 12 08 71 II 9 402 99 203 94 10 ,, 49 13 33 ,103 4I .. Fourteen 149 119 18 19 138 lOJ 18 B .969 5 116 414 ,, 3 40 4 902 11 2 Fineen . 1H.1 139 29 11 17« 128 .32 A 9 701 6 699 ,, .1 3 3 6(!9 39 .. I Sixteen in ino 2'J 14 12c 9f 16 493 42 1 2i8 221 1 10 23 3!l 41 379 10 1 1 Seventeen . im 18H 4'. 31 221 I9H ,32 23 1 2 99s 33.1 21 Kill 429 4 38 18 9(1 47 41 764 44 12 ' Eluhtoen m 161 37 20 220 184 33 2(1 899 67 4116 229 ,14 2 18 67 40 790 34 ., 1 Nineteen »0<1 188 46 20 296 17f 37 11 2 1069 196 ii 294 436 70 9 43 86 116 1,13 699 3,9 t Twenty *fiii 1.98 86 23 21t 160 211 16 930 2113 212 213 219 24 1 86 103 B3 694 17 9 Twenty-one . 191 14:1 S.f 16 16,9 149 3)1 It 3 2 701 lf>3 2.92 199 41 05 .. 1 90 148 29 464 10 Twenty-two . I4t 111 I i 143 ■9-1 H ! 517 4« la K S in Olio . 130 8110 wo 642, 163 2606 ~27?3 663 5863 25,890 174 711 1260 ~6f3" 1 .. 3 Two 330 1012 10.56 400 19 820 8.19 816 1610 8683 61 213 438 160 . ',- ,. Three . 6010 (100 1070 57 661 699 13.1 799 6147 26 134 918 113 . .,'.. ,, Four . Klvo . . IM 26(>8 9253 300 1.50 000 610 1.50 108 290 68 710 981 lOKB 834 1 26 2(CJ 13.57 3022 10,200 10,724 42 69 218 242 311 897 189 . 101 1 V* ','• i Six . . . 791 100 1240 1 1 887 471 14.« 15.52 7076 31 164 198 108 . 1 Kevfn . »m 16.50 2."iO 69 746 1476 151 1117 11,540 19 253 410 195 . 9.. "9 x.\m . . . 650 ., 100 I8NII 17 400 8.56 20.5 719 6064 14 204 2.57 125 . 1 .. 1 Nine . 130 ,, 600 600 l,5lt), .. 251 265 93 221 4.507 9 'J3 1.14 81 . !,,. 1 Ton 330 100 100 3IIII 8 110 96 8 100 1230 4 24 38 13 . ,, Kleven . . 100 3120 iiaa IWl' 87 942 1062 140 1739 9731 60 273 893 l'J7 . "i "1 ., Twelve . 821 300 300 310 23 .168 478 30 631 6410 13 126 936 145 . 1 .. 9 Tliirtoen S3*r> 3020 284 245 160 !H) 9883 2527 498 51!K) 16,650 111 636 924 398 1 .. 9 Foiirtven &05I 1593 2.50 200 3110 64 1200 1920 607 6518 21,3,13 114 646 urn 662 1 9 .. 4 Klfteen, . . 8(100 100 1350 .36 2289 1683 742 6396 27,670 126 547 937 429 1 9 . 9 SIxtc-cn 1380 4749 2330 "8 606 107 2013 1898 668 7531 l'J,3.59 116 675 1088 428 1 Si^votitcen . I8,l.'i9 2230 727 311 495 203 4'.i.l.l 4281 1167 17,472 49,621 212 1126 1729 783 23!! 4 Jiluhlecn . 8(Mi5 5306 101 41 4237 6470 666 18,503 39,6!H) 268 1273 9317 9-29 1 1 .. 4 Nineteen J394 10,006 1510 1(11 3217 3802 926 17,220 43,360 173 1043 1662 774 1 .. . Twenty 2580 7923 291 800 80 2726 .1839 818 16,6'J6 36,967 211 920 ■ Oil 736 2 9 . '3 Twenty-one . 3275 3966 850 240 400 151 2294 3936 1009 14,603 36,110 174 707 -.7.57 609 9 4 4 Twenty-two. 911 4420 2800 231 1121 1464 446 6984 16,220 86 368 827 293 . 6 : Twenty-three noo 793.5 \m 2(10 1470 337 2972 2871 946 14,l2i) 44,118 184 861 1611 682 4 '9 '. 9 Twenty-four 3112 9912 3U0 18.50 704 197 4327 7213 8443 17,393 69,920 324 1204 2658 1262 1 9. 1 , 'J'w.jnty-lire . 12,«.57 847 ,. 5r.0 60 2730 3017 681 10,360 21,625 1,15 067 1183 444 9 3 . 6 Twenty-six . snui 4314 1100 9i5 120 .1.594 4816 1264 13,881 82,576 179 351 1656 601 3 4 . 7 Twenty-seveu 4703 4242 1.50 2097 410 230 2209 2625 1258 11,473 33,480 154 632 1143 681 1 3 . 9 Twcnty-eiKht 7010 10,984 329 113 130 6657 6206 4649 20,694 81,325 338 1312 3114 896 . . 6 . 10 Twenty-nluo 202 10,467 1371 1175 430 3807 5008 3431 11,392 60,28" 202 764 1309 616 9 3 . 8 Thirty . 2433 2720 800 1060 93 1061 525 280 2263 11,255 42 173 265 116 . 1 . 4 Thirty-one . 3400 2302 405 372 171 1607 1367 1062 70'J2 24,697 112 475 644 448 . . .. . a ' Thirty-two . 887'J 6689 410 6i;i 131 3094 4255 2212 20,'J69 40,071 276 1683 1695 698 3 8. 10 Thlrly-tliree G730 7144 200 360 435 4038 6109 1819 16,760 67,160 383 1085 2004 720 9 3 5 Tlility-four . 3; 139 13,427 1634 498 60 497 (H37 8209 4182 29,677 80,.3.54 490 1682 2976 1342 6 6 i 1 8 Tlilriy-flve . 3.M 10,003 2418 200 100 249 2783 2397 18ini 1,1,753 43,825 238 868 1409 832 . I . 1 Tlilriy-»lx . .. 8917 3702 1.530 250 427 1895 1325 1531 11,703 40,266 122 710 811 809 9 2 . ThUly-seron 7548 270O 125 1228 400 87 2477 1640 1.571 84:18 36,113 185 746 1098 838 1 3 . 3 Uijnv. eight 5212 1888 850 207 42 62 1120 1341 1280 6357 25,720 121 478 862 837 1 1 . 9 Thirty-nine . 28.15 440 ^^ 562 70 77 1085 1219 755 6167 17,860 124 396 099 445 1 9 . 3 Forty . 440 2384 ., 188 1015 177 1347 1902 780 7654 31,116 139 479 791 683 1 1 . 9 Forty.one . 3(35 1346 2162 125 124 1096 1313 1361 6381 30,542 120 644 10,18 836 1 Kurty-two . 275 1740 650 1139 50 13.52 811 I9:i8 6082 27,916 133 433 892 4.50. . i '. a Forty-three . 15.50 4154 817 344 250 32 1882 1460 2031 8383 48,841 191 602 1164 827 1 2 . 1 Forty-four . f.l45 472 200 722 95 1415 1139 2553 7050 40,095 140 642 896 726 2 1 . 9 Forty-live . 2.5d3 400 7571 115 172.-. Oil 2612 8108 45,967 148 6.59 1273 898 1 2 . 1 Forty-six 1728 1042 360 • • 1539 60 878 642 1794 6117 26,415 86 371 692 374 1 . Forty-seven . 9159 3711 102 2793 2085 5100 17,117 57,603 248 1013 2032 1102 2 3 . '3 Forty-elBht . 2848 84.59 65 131 121 2997 3801 1989 15,379 60,716 184 734 1348 478 9 9 . 8 Forty-nine . MM 6423 i40 lo7 4691 147 1230 4147 2340 20,815 81,676 271 1164 1616 865 4 1 . 8 Fifty . 7496 6684 100 310 2.15 137 3.V.1 3-74 1767 17,318 68,376 236 1243 1960 814 3 fifiy-one . 2985 300 2610 950 61 851 912 233 2271 20,621 68 325 410 293 '. "\ '. 2 : Fifiy-two . 1850 420 ,, 675 2597 49 891 7.-)0 422 2831 l'J,385 74 323 482 315 1 1 . Fifiy-threo . 13.34 2050 ,. 17.52 20O 39 11.51 1.181 851 5022 25,510 98 438 806 391 . .. . Fifty-four . 1606 250 , , 100 2851 19 613 119 256 2330 10,460 42 246 298 214 1 Fifty-live . 9516 50 ,, 60 123 1203 1.171 1829 7781 87,52( 138 782 1055 624 1 1 . FIfly-sIx . . 700 6691 ,, 2.50 200 63 1407 1286 1009 6168 37,221 142 656 929 694 Fifty-seven . 8(172 10.872 211 90 795 446( 2157 1801 23,113 63,76( 250 1273 23.13 852 2 '3 ! Fifty-eight . 6181 1550 ',50 l.=-0 650 225 20>i: 1090 784 I0,H9.- 27,67( 131 611 968 355 1 1 . 2 1 Fifty-nine . 1.VJ8 1488 l(.0 129 364 95 lid' 1143 580 4137 18,550 94 333 497 325 1 . Sixty . 3795 1285 200 1.5a 240 11.1- 931 340 6628 17,(i9( 65 3.1.' 72; 231 1 . . ,. Slxty-one . 1220 1878 380 120 46f 64 767 11.55 74» 3797 17.343 72 254 17'. 333 1 Sixty-two . 1993 3087 810 11(»' 257 1555 664 59( 5674 2fl,5in 94 36S 678 272 '■ "\ '. I Sixty-three . 1335 1237 i(V .50 970 7( 857 1485 1892 4564 22,.50( 80 20.' 422 151 1 1 . Sixty-four . 2402 2883 775 3285 181 14.50 1544 808 4IH4 40.510 133 441 113a .118 2 3 . I Slxty-Uve . 4129 6696 1679 32l8 600 363 3509 3608 1739 11,08J 45,731 20'J 713 1660 .5.55 1 . , Slxty-slx . 05 2130; 19 232 157 38 622 4930 1.' 9! 75 96 1 . Sixty-seven . 8354 ioo 400 MOO .. 1 268 92' 1309 145,471 201 79,847 4841 t581.'J77 13,710 2,1.53, •;9a 5 ¥U 638 .10.1 9 Total. 2.39,805 228,2731 32,224, 41.1011 60,199 91.WI 135,197 9262 40,120 70,888 ,13,729 n; 100, 7 177 1 1 ; Charlottetown do. Royalty 1 6516 (M)2 lJ2 3197 41G(. 1712 15,320 S5,19!i 3.5S 880 I61S 891 4 13 4 1 3 1 Georgetown ! do. Royalty 1 694 60 150 27 67 462 804 282 3279 12,695 61 20s 434 312 3 1 Prtnceto.vn . 1 do. Royalty Doughton Island . J- 3447 3! 20 2124 278." 1108 931S 20,03C llf 63S 78. 417 1 2 1 .. ISS 8 4 10« 243 117 31.' 422. K 44 I'l 104 Pannuire Island . 700 .' IK 13( 1.58 12(8 1.5(K ." 2 9 1 21 . ,• Rustico Island . COO .. 6C 2r 20( 'JM 4 \> 4 10 St. Feier Island . ■m . '44 9f 24 10. IKK c V. 8 29 Oovemor Island . Murr.iy Ishm'l 'co .1 1 Vi 2' 7( 1 ;: 'a.- 'i( .. ( 15 J^ ' 1 .. .. Qhand ToTAl. 261 162 22U,.»,1 ' 32,2'! 1 lll,8G« 60,60I'9259J 111,500, 153,4,5' ) 83,29' 011,82 2,250,1 14'986 1 41,91 1 73,64 3l36,.591 I 75 116 0J18I i I 'I 288 GOVERNMENT, RKLKIION, EDUCATION, CRIME, REVENUE. GovEiiNMENT. — Prince Edward's Island 1)08 its own licntrnniit-};ovci nor, counoil, nnd Iloii.ie of A«9onil)ly, cotistituted nl'tcr the manner dcscribinl in thn pri'ceding colonies; it is prrfcetly independent of the povernor- f;cneral nt Quebec in the civil administra- tion of its afl'airs ; its military arc nnder the control of the Nova Scotia Commander of the Forces. The executive consists generally of nine, nnd the legislature of six members, appointed by the mandamus of the sovereign: and the Assembly comprises t\*enty-four members, elected by the people as in inc other North American colonics. The form of i)rocedure is that of the British Parlia- ment. There is n Court of Chancery regu- lated after that at Westminster, over which the governor presides — and the jnrispra- denee of the colony is under the direction of n chief justice. The laws are English. Military Defences. — The militia includes 2 lieutenant-colonels, 13 majors, 120 cap- tains, 137 lieutenants, 118 ensigns, and 12 adjutants. The total force, ofliccrs and men, is 7302. There arc four troops of cavalry, a detachment of artillery, and three regiments of infantry. The military de- fences comprise the St. George's battery of 1 1 guns in Charlotte town ; Kent battery of 4 guns on the government house ground ; York battery at the west entrance of the harbour, and a block house with 4 guns. Religion. — Prince Edward Island is in the diocese of Halifax. There are six cler- gymen of the established church, of whom five are paid by the Ijondon " Society for Propagating the Gospel in Foreign Parts." The rector at Charlotte town receives from the Treasury .£100 per annum, £100 a-year from the London Society for Propagating the Gospel, £360 a-year as garrison chap- lain, £70 a-year for a house from his parishioners, and surplice fees. Churches arc building in different parishes. There are no parsonage houses, and the glebes have been sold and devoted to education. The number of people professing different annually to the legislature. There are two ncwspajjers, cflicientlv conducted. Tlirfc infant schools were established in lSf2 iit Charlotte town, Georg.! to'vn, nnd St. Eleanors, chiefly througli the exertions and pecuniary aid given by Cajitnin Orlebar, ol' the Iloyai Navy, who was employed upon tlic survey of the island. The nuister and mis- tress, Mr. and Mrs. Hubbard, were trainid at the Grny's Inn Road Institute. London, and a committee of ladies, communicants ol the Chinch of England, arc entrusted with the supervision. Instruction is given to 100 children of ngcs varying from three to ten years, and in four years the numlK'r of pupil" amounted to r>;j(). Tlie schools were devised for the benefit of the poor, and the scale of charges was two-pence a-week for children above six \ ears of age, and three half'-penre for younirer children. The lliblc is read daily, hymns sung, uiul cleanliness, truth- telling, and honesty enforced. A library is attaclied to each school. The system has answered well, and is worthy of imitation. Crime — in 1847. In prison, felons 3 tried, 2 untried. Debtor?, wliitos, males (JO; females, 3; blacks, 2. Total number in confinement at Michaelmas, of all classes, 13 1.. F/'flflHrp.— The first revenue attempted to be levied for tlic support of the government, as before ttated, was the quit-rents — these failing inthtir extent, a parlianientavy ginnt was applied for and obtained. In 1821 the revenue collected was £2,052 ; in 182(5, £4,935 ; in 183(i, X8,887 ; in 1810, i.'17,27'J. Items of Uevoiiuo. forms of religion, and the number of churches | Post office or temples of worship in each township axe " shown in the statistical table at page 287. Education is promoted l)y a central academy at Charlotte town, which has 90 male ptipils, a national school, with 30 male and 10 female pupils; and 110 district schools in different districts, which cost the colonial government about £1,0(X) a-year. Three school A'isitors superintend the district schools, one for each county, and report Impost on wines und spirits by permanent colonial enact- ment Ditto by annual colonial ennct-l ment on wines and spirits, I nnd an iid rahrem on certain | goods and wares J Land assessment .... Spirit licenses Tonnage duty IMfi. Rent of Warren farm . . Wliarfage, Charlotte town Interest on bonded dutiis Colonial stcr'-tary's fees . ] [(r Majesty's customs Incideutal rcc( ipts . . . Crown laml sales . . . Surplus money of sales Under land assessment act Immigrant tuY . . . . Total JEI.ISO 9,81 (! 1,000 22 310 624 2J 175 273 110 1,734 190 S12 480 17,201 1H17. £1,H30 14,0j:8 1,824 linii 303 033 2.-. 178 121 142 1,410 303 201 22,031 11 -these tavy Rvaut 1821 the in lB2t), €17,279. l«17. £i,8ao H.OiS 1,824 2 ;i09 r. 303 4 o;!;» !.■> 25 ■« 178 ill 121 19 142 1 H 1,410 90 303 ! 12 201 KO 79 2G1 22,031 EXPKNDITUllK, COMMERCE, IMPORTS, PRICES. 389 From 1K;)0 to 1818, the iinnunl pnrlia- mciitary prant wan f,'3,070. Tlir- sum voted for tJie year UVM) wan IL,2,0(M), — iiaiii'ly, £1,500 for the calnry of thcr j^ovcrnor, and X'5C)0 pension to ^^ I). Smith, Kscj., wliioli wn§ ■granted in 1H2 I. The island will proba- bly Hoon defray entirely its civil expenditure. Tke E.f/)enaitiirc of Prinee Kd\trurd Island was. hi 1828, .i'fi,719; in 18.30. £16,477; in 1847, £21, .'574; and iu 1818, £ Tlic civil catablisliment costs about C'i,2()0 ; roads, bridf,'e8, and wharfs, €2,(i()0to C.%2()0; public buildings, C2,0()0; House of Assem- bly, .£l,r)(K); k'gi.slative council, tnOO ; schools, £1,(KX); interest on outstanding; warrants, £1,500; seed, ^ra\n, &c. to d(>sti- tiitc Rcttlerr., .£2,500; sheriff and gaol ex- penses, £300; printing and stationery, £330; lunatic and indifjent persons, .£;28(); coro- ner's inquest, £(50; and various other items. Pn^er Currency. — £11,G50, issued by the government ; and about £10,000 issued by banks ia the neighbouring provinees. ('i)hi in cirrnlntion. — About £20,000 ll'rir/fit.i tiiitl MvuHui jr. —According t,) llic slandai'd of Eugluml. Coiniiivrcc. — In 1827, the total value of the iiupoi'ts was ab'iiit L".'7,000, and the exports Hbout £18,000. TIk; imports in 1817 were valued at £'1 I3,(J17, and the ex- ports at £71,228. The shippinj; built and exported are not included iu this iiuni of £71,228. In 181(5, eighty-two vessels were built in Pri(\co Fdwanl Island, whose ton- nage was 12,012; ami the value, at £.') to £(> per ton, would be ab( at £(5(5,000. in IHi-7, there were built 9(5 vessels; tonnafre, )8, 1 li"'. The vessels registcied in tin; isluncl in 18 11' were, under 50 tons — number, 1 1'7 ; tons, •l',()50 : 50 tons and upwards — number, 90; tons, 9,80.'. Th- imports consist eliiefly of manuf'Cttired goods, and the exports, uf grain, po. itoes, tin ' :r, fish, a ships. The trade of Prince K " ard I.slnnd with diflercnt countricM i? ti :v. shown for 1817:— Imports from P.ipirt» to Port/i. Ori;at Urituiii. Briti.sh Indies. Hriti.h North America. ]■ urciffE (^^Ul^tric^. £0,373 090 £7,ft65 r|> . 1 Ol'( lit ■""''• Dritui... Or i^li Ill(Iif-S. DriM-U .\oi-tli -Viucriiii. l-'oi-ci.'ll t'oimtrii'-. 'Ictul. Chorlotte town . Three Uivcrs . . Bedeque .... Ca.«-"iiinpcc . . . M.ilpeqiie .... Colvilli! Bay . . i;4H.8(i:i l,ol(i 3(1 o,8;!;i (1 £207 £,)0,913 15,000 2,.'t8(i 339 2,151 0,205 £70,101 £100,390 17,305 2.418 339 8,987 8,215 £143,054 £17,203 0,913 782 4IH) 3,201 40K £32,190 £219 '.'15,105 4.217 4.922 1,737 (>,;)05 5,117 £ 19 ! 325 £31,475 14.110 5,705 2,117 9,5 17 3.880 Total . . £57,213 £207 £219 £38,003 £821 £71,22! Among the imports from Great Britain, at the port of Charlotte town, are — £10,894 of dry goods; £1,589 of hardware; £5,098 of cordage; £4,126 of iron; £12,528 of Buntbies. Among the exports to Great Bri- tain,are — oats. 96,177 bushels; value,£5,322; timber, 4,769 tons, £3,991 ; deals, 1,197,902 feet, £2,836. The imports and exports of the other porti, as to trade with Great Britain, are in the same proportion. Manufactures, — There has been recently established at Charlotte town an iron foun- dry; and there is an establishment for drying, fulling, and dressing cloth at the same place. Linens and flannels are made for domestic use ; and the colonists tan and di'css, leather. Prices. — Wheat, 8.*.; barley, 2«. 9(f.; oats, 1«. 96?.; potatoes, 2«. k'hI., per bushel; hay, per ton, .£3 to £3 10s. ; wheaten bread, per lb., 4rf. ; horned cattle, £5; horses, £15; flhcep, 12i'. ; swiuc, £1; butter, per lb., 1*. ; vol. I. milk, per quart, -^d. ; cheese, 7d. ; beef, 4rf. ; mutton, 3(/. ; pork, [i\d.\ eon'ec, 1«. ; tea, 'is. ; sugar, (id. ; salt, \d , per lb. ; wine, 10«. ; brandy, 12«. ; beer, 1«., per gallon; 1 ''.T"eo, per lb., 1*. ■'-;(.'«. — Domestic, £16 per annum. i.,uce Edw.ard Island is essentially an agricultural colony, and admirably adapted for industrious emigrants with small capitals. Crop after crop of wheat is raised without manurijig; tlie barley is excellent, and oats much superior to any other of American growtli ; the potatoes and turnips cannot be rxeeeded anywhere; and peas and bc.ius are equally good. Cabbage, carrots, and ])ai'3- nips are produced as good as any iu Eng- land ; in fact, all the produce of J'>i;^lisli gardens will thrive here equally well. The climate is particularly favoui'ablc to sheep; they are not subject to the rot, r.i any disease commou to sheep in this roiiiitry : thcv are small, but of excellent llavoin- ; t!u ' I' ;,-.; Wm \uy. }j\ t^t •; i n. A. 890 FISHERIES AND RESOURCES OP PllINCE EDWARD ISLAND. common size is about 60 pounds the car- case. The rivers abound with trout, eels, mnc- kerel, flounders, oysters, and hibsters, and some sab'ifmj and the coast with cod-fisli and herriugs in great abundance. The latter, soon after the ice breaks away in the spring, rush into the liarbours on tlie north side of the ishind in immense shoals, are taken by the inhabitants, in small nets, witli very little trouble; and, as salt is cluMip (not being subject to duty), moat families barrel up a quantity for occasional use. The lobsters are in great abundance, and very large and fine. In Em-ope, this kind of shell-fish is only taken on the sea-coast amongst rocks; at Prince Edward Island they are taken in the rivers and on shallows, where they feed on a kind of sea-weed, called by the islanders ccl-grass; and a person wading into the water half-leg deep might fill a bushel basket in half an hour, Many schooners are annually laden with oysters for Quebec and Newfoundland. The plenty of fish, and the ease with wliieh it ia Erocured, is of great assistance to the inha- itants, and in particidar to new settlers, before they have time to raise food from the produce of the land. Hares and partridges are plenty, and are free for any person to kill; and in the spring and autumn great numbers of wild geese, ducks, andotlier water fowl visit the island. The fisheries of Prince Edward Island have not been sufficiently attended to. The herring fishery is of great importance : it commences early in the spring, when the bays and harbours, particularly on the north side of the island, are no sooner ch^ar of ice, than they are filled with immense shoals of those fish, which may be taken in any quantity : they are larger, though not so fat, generally, as those taken off the western coasts of Ireland and Scotland, and partake more of the character of the Swedish her- ring. Alewives, or gaspereau, although not 80 plentiful as the herring, appear in large quantities. Mackerel are in great abun- dance on the coast and in the harbours, from June to November. Cod are taken extensively in every part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, more particularly on the coast of Prince Edward Island, the bay of Cha- leur, and in the straits of Belleislc. Trout are found everywhere extremely fine, ami often very large : t^'e halibut caught some- times wein;Ii MOO pmind.*. Stin-gcons are eonnunii in the siniinicr months in all the luirlioiirM, Noiuc iticiiNuriug six to seven feet ill liij(i;lli, I'ci'eh ttw found in the rivers iiiid pimdH tliiit liiive a eonnuunieatinu with the «'a, iiidecd, if thn fislicries of this fine iNJiiiul were uunv, uttcii.U'< south- western extremity approaches wiiliin 50 miles of Cape Breton, and on the N.W. the Gulf of St. Lawrence separates it from Canada. Newfoundland is the nearest to Europe of any part of America; the dis- tance from St. John's, in Newfoundland, to Port Valeutia, on the west coast of Ireland, being 1,65(5 miles. Bouchette states its ex- treme length, measured on a curve, from Cape Race to Grignet Bay, at 419 miles; its extreme width, from Cape Ray to Cape Bonavista, at about 300 miles, and its circuit at little short of 1,000 miles. Its area com- prises about 36,000 square miles. History. — According to tradition (sup- ported, it would appear, by historical evi- dence of considerable weight) the island was discovered by Biarnc, or Biorn, a sea king, or pirate of Ireland, mIio, being driven thither by contrary winds, is said to have taken slieltcr near Port Grace harbour, about the year 1,000. Robertson and»Pink- erton were of opinion, that Newfoundland was first colonized by the Norwegians. Some years ago, a party of settlers, proceeding up a river which falls into Conception Bay, observed at a distance of six or seven miles from the bay the appcai'ance of stone walls rising above the surface. On removing the sand and alluvial earth, they ascertained these to be the remains of ancient buildings, with oak beams, and millstones sunk in oaken beds; inelosures resembling gardens were also traced out, and plants of various kinds, not indigenous to the island, were growing around. Among the ruins were found different European coins, some of Dutch gold, considered to be old Flemish coin?, others of copper, without inscriptions. jiccording to a paper furnished to the Royal Geographical Society, doubts arc en- tertained of tiie antiquity of the buildings, which are supposed by Captain Robinson to be probably of no more ancient d\tc than the settlement of Lord Baltimore ; but the finding of coins of virgin gold is not ques- tioned. This, however, is a matter of anti- quarian research, which does not come within the limits of the present work. We, there- fore, pass on to tlie re-discovcry of the island by Cabot, who, having obtained a commission from Hcniy VII. during liis firdt voyage in 1197, observed a headland, which he called Prima Vista. " It has been conjectured by some," says lieutenant-colonel Sir Richard Bonnycastle, in his valuable work, entitled Newfuiindlaml in 1842, "that Cabot must have meant La- brador as the place of his discovery, because there are no white bears" (mentioned by Cabot in the brief account of his voyage;, written by him on a map, which was depo- sited in the Privy Gallery at Whitehall,) "in Newfoundland. This, I apprehend, is false reasoning. Tliere is a place even ou the south coast called White Bear Bay, atui it is quite probable that the polar bear has, like the walrus or sea-horse, been driven away by the increasing fisheries." Ho\v- ever this may be, it certainly was discovered by Cabot in this voy.agc, and, on that ac- count, ever after claimed by Britain. In 1550, the new-found island was visited by Cortcrcal, who, after giving Conception Bay the name it still bears, sailed along the coast of Northern America, then called Baccalaos, from an Iiuliau word signifying cod-fisli. The fisheries of Newfoundland speedily drew attention ; and tlie crew of an English ship, on returning home, stated that tliey hail left 10 vessels, — fortugucsc, French, and Spanish, engaged therein. The details of the voyage of N'crrazano, in 1525, on which I J [i f if' ! ■m fl ?^ 293 EAllLY HISTORY OF NEWFOUNDLAND. the French founded their claim to New- foundland and the adjacent provinces, are exceedingly vague. In lij3 1, Jacques Car- tier arrived at Cape B navista, and, on his return to France, was inost favourahly re- ceived. An expedition was fitted out, under his direction, in the following year, whose success has been already mentioned at the conimeneement of the history of Canada. About this time several attempts were made by England to colonize Newfoundland. " Master Robert Ilore," a merchant of Lon- don, " with divers other gentlemen," sailed in 1536, thinking to winter there; but the crew M'cre nearly starved to death, compelled to resort to the most loathsome expedients, and would have perished had they not met with a French ship laden with provisions, which they seized, and brought to England. Henry Vlll. of England satisfied the French claim for indemnity by paying for the seized vessel. The expedition, in 1583 of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the half-brother of Sir Walter Raleigh, has been already recounted, (see page 3, Vol. I.) but the following detail respecting the death of the gallant adventurer may not be unacceptable : — " Sir Humphrey, on his return from surveying the coast in the Little Squirrel, learned the wreck of the Delight from those who had escaped. IFc then reluctantly made prepa- rations for crossing the ocean, declaring that he ' would fit out an expedition royally, and return next spring.' He was strongly urged to quit the nut-sliell in which he had embarked, and go on beard the Golden Hind. His reply is characteristic of the l)rother-in-law of Ilaleigh, ' I will not for- sake ray little company, with wliom I have passed so many storms and perils.' Tlicy roiichcd the Azores in safety, but there encountered a storm of so terrible a nature that it quailed their hearts. Sir Humphrey alone retaining his self-possession. The Golden Hind kept as near the Little Squir- rel and her brave admiral as the perilous mountains < ' water would permit, and the crew, in thcu' dismay, saw him sitting and calmly reading on the deck, and heard him l)id them be of good cheer, ' for,' said he, ' wc are as near to heaven by sea as by land.' At night the blackness of darkness fell upon the ocean, the lights in the Squirrel sud- denly disappeared, and this is all that will ever be ciironicled of the fate of one of the bravest of the adventurers who sought, in tlio glorious reign of Elizabeth, to extend tlic (lomiiiidn (.{' England in the western world. Of all the armament the Golden Hind alone reached England, ami she was a mere wreck." — (See Bonnycastle's Netij- foundland in 18'1'2, and Hackluyt, page (579.) In 1585, according to our next accounts, a voyage was made to Ne^vfoundland by Sir Bernard Drake, who claimed its sovereignty and fishery in the name of Queen Elizabeth, Sir Bernard seized several Portuguese ships laden with fish, and oil, and furs, and re- turned to England; but, owing to the war with Spain, and the alarm caused by the Spanish armada, several years elapsed before another voyage was made to the island. An effort for its colonization was made in IGIO, in virtue of a patent granted by James I. to the Lord Chancellor Bacon, Lord Veru- 1am, the Earl of Northampton, Lord Clilef Baron Tanfield, Sir John Doddridge, and forty other persons, under the designation of the "Treasurer and Company of Adven- turers and Planters of the Cities of London and Bristol for the Colony of Newfound- land." The patent granted the lands between Capes St. Mary and Bonavista, with the seas and islands lying within ten leagues of the coast, for the purpose of securing for e^er the trade of fishing to British subjects. Mr. Guy, an intelligent and enteri)rising merchant of Bristol, who planned this expe- dition, settled in Conception Bay, remained there two years, and then returned to Eng- land, leaving the colony (of whose capacities he had given a somewhat exaggerated descrip- tion in hi ■■ letters home) , in charge of William Colston, Wiiose report concerning the island is far less favourable Twenty-five of the settlers were seized with scurvy, six of whom died, the rest had recovered, it is stated, by using turnips. Guy went back in the sum- mer of 1012, and exerted himself success- fully in the aiTangement of the colony. He undertook a survey of the coast, and met with two canoes of Red Indians, with whom he held friendly intercourse. From this period little is known of him ; he appears to have subsequently abandoned the settlement, which, deprived of his energy and example, soon languished. In 1615, Captain Whitbourne, a contem- porary of Sir Humphrey Gilbert and Sir Bernard Drake, who had himself made many voyages to Newfoundland, was sent there with a commission from the admiralty, to establish order, investigate the abuses com- plained of by the fishermen, and repress the flagrant dishonesty too generally manffcsted, Immediately on his arrival he held a court, PREVENTION OF SETTLEMENT IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 293 at which one hundred and seventy masters of vessels submitted themselves to his juris- diction, and he eudeiivoured to empannel juries in the most frequcuted harbours. Two years from this period, Whitbourne was ap- pointed chief of a body of Welshmen, dis- patched by Doctor Vaughan to form a set- tlement called Cambriol (now Little Britain) in the soath part of the island, on land purchased from the patentees. The first e'lbrt, liowcver, which can be said to have Ijcfln attended with pennnncnt success, was that made in 1G23 by Sir George Calvert, afterwards Lord Baltiniore, who having ob- tained the grant of a considerable tract l)ctween Cape St. Mary and the Bay of Bulls (corruptly so called from the French name, " Bale des Boules,") detemiiued upon esta- blishing himself there with a number of his countrymen, who, with him, belonged to ^lie church of Rome. Tlie settlers fixed tlieir head-quarters at Femland, where Lord Bal- timore built a strong fort and good house, in which he resided until about twenty years from the first foundation of the settlement, which he called Avalon, from the ancient name of Glastonbury, where Christianity was fir.st jjveachcd in Britain. At the expiration of this period his lordship returned to Eng- land, and through the favour of Charles I. fouiulod a colony on the shores of Maryland, from which arose the fine city which bears his name. Another colony was sent to Newfoundland from Ireland by its then lord lieutenant Cary, Lord Falkland. In 1G35, the king graiited permission to the French to cure and dry fish, on condition of their paying five per cent, of the produce. In !()()() they formed a settlement in the Bay of Placentia, which they long continued to occupy. In 1651, Sir David Kirk, having obtained from parliament a grant of land, proceeded thitlier with a few settlers ; not- withstanding the continual bickering be- tween the British and the French, who had established a colony at Placentia, the British population had increased to about 350 fami- lies. In 1G()3 we find a very interesting document issued by Charles I., and directed to the Lord Treasurer and others, desiring them " to erect a common fishery as a niirsery for seamen ;" and containing the first regulations for the " govci'uing of his majesty's subjects inhabitiiHi in Newfound- land, or traificking in bays." In this year the British fisheries were exempted entirely from tux or toll, and the island would doubt- 'e.ss have rapidly inei'eased in population and prosperity but for the unjustifiable line of conduct pursued l;y the board of trade and plantations, to which they were insti- gated by the selfish jealousy of the parties by whom the fisheries were carried on. In 1670 Sir Josiah Child, the principal person connected with them, published a pfimphlct to prove that the cod fishery had declined since 1(505, which he stated then employed 2i>0 vessels, and did not now engage above 80. lie imputed this decrea^; to the boat fishery carried on by the inhabitants along the coast, and he urged that if they were permitted to multiply, they could carry on the whole fishery, and the nursery of seamen be thus destroyed. He therefore advised not only the forcible prevention of any further immigration taking place in New- foundland, but urged the remedy of dis- planting. To the calm and dispassionate reader it must appear barely credible that such a suggestion could be for a moment entertained, much less acted upon by a British government, yet this was actually the case. In the year 1607 the residents had applied for a governor, but their request had been set aside in consequence of its being violently opposed by the English mer- chants ; in 1674 they renewed their applica- tion, which was rejected, and Sir John Berry was sent out with orders for the de- portation of the settlers, the destruction of their houses, and in fact the entire uprooting of the thriving colony which had been reared at the heavy cost of the energies, treasure, and even life-blood, jf several of England's best and bravest sons. Happily for the wretched people. Sir John Berry was a man of humane character, and while mitigating as far as lay in his power his cruel commis- sion, he sent home strong rcmoustarices against the misery which he was reluctantly compelled to occasion. In 1676, Mr. Down- ing, one of the residents, obtained an order from the king, to prevent any further pcr- sccutiou, accompanied however by strict in- junctions, forbidding any vessel to take out emigrants, or any person to settle in New- foundland. Complaints constantly assailed the government that these laws were evaded ; representatious were made on one side aiu' eouutcr-repvescutatious on the other, but no further rigorous measures appear to ha/e been taken, and in 1097 the board of trade published a report, stating that a number of inhabitants, not exceeding one thousand, might be usefully employed in constructing boats, stages for drying the fish, and other 4. k ^ ; ^ i; 1^ b 291 ESTABLISHMENT OF THE " FISHING ADMIRALS. matters connected with the tislieries. On the accession of William III., war hrokc out with France, one of the causes on the part of Britain being set forth as follows ; — "That of late the incroachments of the French upon Newfoundland, and his ma- jesty's subjects' trade rnd fishery there, had been more like the ^..asions of an enemy than becoming frienOs, who enjoyed the ad- vantages of that truls nnhf b\j permission." The French on t'l 'ir j.art avowed their desire to attain exclusive possession of the island. In September, 1692, commander Williams attacked Placentia, but owing to the spirited defence of the French governor, the expedition succeeded only in burning the works on Point Vesti. On the other hand Chevalier Nesmond, in 1696 arrived with a squadron, and aided by the force on the island, made a descent on the town and harbour of S*;. John, but having failed he returned to Fiuiico, Before the close of the year the Frcncii were more successful, for another squadron arriving under Brouillan, he in concert with Ibberville the French commander, attacked St. John, which being Uai? short of military stores, and in a very defenceless state, was compelled to surrender, upon which the town and fort were set on fire, and the garrison sent on parole to England. The French admiral appears to have done nothing further in consequence of a misun- derstanding \vitli Ibberville, who commanded the troops, proceeded to destroy by fire and the sword all the British stations, excepting those at Bonavista and Carbonier (on Con- ception Bay), where he was successfully resisted by the settlers ; he then returned to Placentia. " The dogs of war" seemed now fairly let loose on the uuhapjiy island, whose possession both France and England showed themselves resolved to contest to the utter- most. A British squadron, with 1,500 men on board, w.is dispatched, under the com- mand of admiral Nevil and Sir John Gib- son, but owing to the cowardice of one com- mander aiul the ignorance of the other, nothing was cficctcd to retrieve the disas- trous position of affairs, until the peace of Ryswick, in 1G98, put an end to hostilities, and replaced matters, as far as possible, in the position they were in prior to the war. Several acts of parliament were passed, regidating the fisheries (now declared free to all his majesty's subjects) and the im- portation of fish, taken by foreigners in foreign sliips, was strictly prohibited. An attempt was made to remedy the disorder and misrule which had now reached an alarming height, by directing that the master of the first ship arriving at any station, should receive the title of admiral for the season, and the second and third those of rear and vice-admirals, and that they should be invested with a certain jurisdiction over the seamen and fishermen. Tlie effect of the shifting and irresponsible tiibunal thus established proved very unsatisfac- tory, for the judges, uotwithstaiading their high-sounding titles, were repeatedly bril)cd by presents of fish to give false decisions, as might have been expected from the geiu^ral laxity which had long prevailed. The brief interval of peace was very differently em- ployed by the rival nations. The French wisely encouraged colonization, and gradu- ally occupied the most important positions in Newfoundland ; the English continued to discourage it, and speedily experienced the cfl'i'cts of their misjudged policy, since, in the war which began in 1703, Newfound- land (in the words of Sir Richard Boimy- castle) "instead of having a hardy native population to resist or overwhelm their am- bitious and restless neighbours, had to depend on the occasional presence of sliips of war." On the declaration of the famous "war of the succession," Sir John Leake was immediately dispatched by Queen Anne with a small squadron, to take possession of tlie whole island, which he failed in doing, although he succeeded in destroying several French settlements and capturing a numbcj of vessels, witli which he returned to Eng- land at the close of the year. In August, 1703, admiral Graydon was sent with afresh fleet off the coast of Newfoundland, but, owing to a fog, which continued with great density for thirty days, his ships were dis- persed, and could not be brought together till the 3rd of September. He then called a council of war, as to the practicability of attacking the strong-': Md of the French, at Placentia, and it was ilccided that it would not be prudent to do so with the force at his disposal ; on which he returned to England, where his conduct was severely censured. In 1705 the garrison of Placentia, reinforced by 5(X) men from Canada, attacked the British colonists, and attempted to become sole masters of the island by attacking the harbour of St. John's, where they were repulsed, but they succeeded in gaining pos- session of several settlements, destroyed Fort Forillon, and spread their ravages as far north as Bonavista. In 170G, the British CAPTAIN OSMOllNJ'} APPOINTED GOVEllNOll. 20.1 again cxptUed thorn from tlicir rccout con- quests, and Captain Uudordown, with only ten ships, destroyed several of the enemy s vessels in the harbours aKin^ the (ion.st, not- withstanding that tlio Freneh luul ax many as ten armed vessels on tluit station. Although parliament earnestly entreated the queen to " use lier royal endeavours to recover and preserve the ancient posseMHions, trade, and tisheric^ of Nowfoundlund," little attention was paid to their ui'gcMit address, the whole disposable force being assigned to the Duke of Marlboro\igh, at that time in the midst of his victorious (lanuir. The French/ however, notwithstanding their repeated disasters on tliu continent, still found leisure to persevere in their endea- vours for the expulsion of the English from Newfoundland, and accordingly Ht. Ovidc, the French commander at Placentia, having eflccted a landing without being liliging their Admiral (de Ternay) to maiie a preeinitate retrent. Uae zealous exevtions of the colonists, m^A tli-^ decided loyalty manifested by them, dest:rvc es]; iVid JNFr. (Miav'; a Garland, then a merciiarjt at iJarboiiicr, i;. Conception Bay, paid, f(vi tnd siq.ptnted a detachment of men who jiirrisoneil a large battery on an island ui.'-r iLis mouti, of the harbour, and r.'\isi;d numerous 8i[uads of sailors for the (eniporary use of the fleet. On the 10th of Februnry, 1703, by the famous peace of Paris, France formally yielded Newfound- land with the other American colonies, and England confirmed the thirteenth article of I he Treaty of Utrecht, by the fifth and sixth aiticlcT of the Peace of Paris, of which arti- cles I subjoin a copy: — " Treat!/ of Utrecht, 1713.— AvU 13.— The island called Newfoundland, with the adjacent islands, shall from this time forward belong of right wholly to Great Britain ; and to that end the town and fortress of Flacentia, and whatever other places in the said island are in possession of the French, shall be yielded and given up, within seven months from the exchange of the ratifications of this treaty, or sooner, if pos- sible, by the most Christian king, to those who have • commission from the queen of Great Dritain for that purpose. Nor shall ths most Christian king, his heirs and s\icccssor8, or any of tlieir subjeota, at any tinip hereafter, ky olaim to any right to the saicl liland or islands, or to any part of it, or them. More- over, it shall not be lawful for the subjects of France to fortify any place in the said island of Newfound- land, or to erect any buildings there, besides stages made of boards, and huts necessary and usual for drying fish; or to resort to the said island beyond the time necessary foi fishing and drying of fijh. But it shall be allowed to the subjects of France to catch fish, and to dry them on land, in tliat part only, and in no other bijsides that, of the said island of Newfoundland, which stretchts from the place called Capo Bonavista to the northern point of the said island, and fron thence running down by the^Mstern side, reaches as far "« the place called PoinFRiche. But the island called Cape Breton as also all others, both in the mouth of the river St. Lawrence, and in the gulf of the same name, shall hereafter belong o( right to the French ; and the most Christian kinp shall have oil manner of liberty to fortify any place or places there." " 'J'rcdty of Piiri», 1703. — Art, S.— The "ubjecbi of France shall hii-.o tin- liberty of i.^'ox ••■f'< drying, on a part of ti.i' coast' »; 'Ki islani' of Ne-. !u Midland, such as it is s].- citicd v '! e 13th u-ticle c.f ti.i- treaty of Utrecht: wir,::h urri'lc is rene .'ed aiv: Ci "Irmed by '!ie present trnnty (c.-jfi,! wlnt n !,it! , , the isla:iu of Cape i; rlo:!, si -.■ .1 a.i \ , hen.t, r ' aiids and coasts in ti.f i.iouth nnd in i.he Oulf ' .'l Law- rcnct,) and his i! ilannic mujesty conscnw tt leave to the t.'.bjectsof ,\;: jaost Christian king the liberty of fishinf: ;i the Gulf of St Lawrence, on con(i;i\()ti that the siilyecb of France do not exercise the iaiil fishery but at the di-tance of three league? ffm, all the coasts belongi'ig u. Great Bri'ni!. is v/eit tl.ose of thi flontinrui as those of Jis is'injs situated in the oi id Gulf of R(. Lawrence. Am m to what re- late? to tin; fishery on the 'o.irts of tin' i land of Cajjc Breton on nf the said gulf, t' •nbjet.i.ji of the most Chriihan k'rg shall >:c*. be porrT.ted to e^ rcise the snid i?;herY but at the t'.cstancc ol fifteen leagues from the cousts of the i land of Cu])e Breton ; and the fishery on the coasts of Nova Scotia or Acadia, and everywhere else out of the said gulf, shall remain oi; the foot of I'ormer treaties." '• Art 0. — The King of Great Britaii. cede,, tlie islands of Si. Pierre and Miquelon, in full right, tc his most C'liristian majesty, to serve as a shelter to the French iishermen : and his said most Christian majesty (Wi:-j,ES not to fortify tlie said islands; to erect no ii'< idings upon tliem, but merely for the convenienci' of the fishery, and to keep upon them a guard of fifty i.ien only for the police. In 1763, tiie coast of Labrador rtas an- nexed to the tjovernment of Newfoundland. Whales and seals were at that time the chief (jl)jects of pursuit on the coast; the trade was carried o.a by sloops and schooners from British America, and yielded a very valuablo produce. In 1764, captain, afterwards Sir Hugh Palliser, was sent out as govemoi, and a collector and comptroller of custom.- , established at St. John's, and in the follow- ing yeai the navigation laws were cxteiidcu to Newfoundland, notwithstanding the op- position made by the merchants and iishir.g adventurers. Sir Hugh, by his energy aiid love of justice, did much for the r ilony, and greatly ameliorated the condilu r. of the poor fishermen, whose rights he strenuously main- tained. By his advice an act was passed, commonly called " S r Hugh Palliser's Act," by which the masters of vessels are compelled, under a heavy penalty, to secure the return of the seamen t) England, and to pay them in money instead of in articles of sujiply. Newfoundliiitd was increasing in population and iini.ortani,c •'■.•hen it recei\cd a severe chock from the revolt of the American colonics, who having renounced all commcr- ill AGREEMENTS CONCERNING THE FISHERIES IN 17«3. a!»7 commer- cial iiitcrcouise with the mother country, were, after some discussion, excluded from tlic fisheries. Tliese colonics then furnislicd Newfoundland with produce to the amount of £350,000 annually, and it was supposed that this intercourse being still left open to them, they would, without doubt, continue to avail themselves of the is.' •e profits which it ailbrdcd. This, however, was not the case, their exports were discontinued, and tho people of Newfoundland were saved from starvation only by the most strenuous exertions on the part of Britain. Large supplies of food were scut out, and liberal Ijouuties granted to the fisheries. A law passed in 1775, allowed €10 to the first twenty-five ships, £20 to the next hundred, and filO to the second hundred, which should land a cargo of fish in Newfoundland before the 15th July, and proceed to. the banks for a second lading. In 1778, a treaty offensive and defensive between France and the United States was concluded, upon which vice-admiral Montague took possession of St. Pierre and Miquelon, and .sent to France 1932 French, whom he found residing there. In 1783, peace was for a brief interval again restored ; the following extracts from the treaty of Versailles show the terms agreed upon between the kings of England and France, with regard to New- foundland and the fisheries : — Treitty of Versailles, 1783.— Art. 4. " His Majesty the King of Great Britain, is maintained in his right to the island of Newfoundland, and to the adjacent islands, as tho whole were assured to him by the thirteenth article of the treaty of Utrecht ; e.xcepting the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, which are ceded in full right, by the present ti-eaty, to His most Christian Majesty." Art. 5. " His Majesty the most Christian King, in order to prevent the quarrels which have hitherto arisen betwe •n the two nations of England and France, consents to renounce the right of fishing, which belongs to him in virtue of the aforesaid article of the treaty of Utrecht, from Cape Bonavista to Cupe St. John, situated on the eastern coast of Newfound- land, in 50" North lut.; and his Majesty tho King of Great Britain consents, on his part, that the fishery a.ssigned to the subjects of his most Christian Ma- jesty, beginning at the said Cape St. John, ])assing to the north, and descending by the western coast of the island of Newfoundland, shall extend to the place called Cape Kay, situated in 47' 50' hit. The French fishermen shall enjoy the fishery which is assigned to them by the present article, as they had the right to enjoy that which was assigned to them liy the treaty of Utreciit. Art. 6. " Willi regard to the fishery in tlie Gulf of St. Lawrence, the French shall continue to exercise it, conformably to the fifth article of the treaty of Paris."' Declaration of his Britannic Majesty. — 1. "The King having entirely agreed willi his most Christian Majesty upon tlie articles of the definite treaty, will \()I., I. seek every means which shall not only insure the execution thereof, with his accustomed good faith and punctuality, but will beside give, on his part, all pos- sible efficacy to the princ'ples which nhall prevent even the Iea.st foundation of dispute for the future. To this end, and in order that the fishermen of the two nations may not give cause for daily quarrels, his Britannic Majesty will take the most positive mea- sures for preventing his subjects from interrupting, in any manner, by their competition, the fishery of the French, during the temporary exercise of it which is granted to them upon the coasts of the island of Newfoundland; and he will for this purpose cause the fixed settlements, which shall be formed there, to be removed. His Britannic Majesty will give orders that the French fishermen be not incommoded in cut- ting the wood neces.sary for the repair of their scaf- folds, huts, and fishing vessels. " The thirteenth article of the treaty of Utrecht, and the method of carrying on the fishery, which has at all times been acknowledged, shall be the plan upon which the fishery shall be carried on there : it shall not be deviated from by either party; the French fishermen building only their scaffolds, confining themselves to the repair of their fishing-vessels, and not wintering there; the subjects of nis Britannic Majesty on their part, not molesting in any manner the French fishermen during their fishing, nor in- juring their scaffolds during tlieir absence. " The King of Great Britain, in ceding the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon to France, regards them as ceded for the purpose of serving as a real shelter to the French fisnennen, and in full confidence that these possessions will not become an object of jea- lousy between the two nations ; and that the fishery between the said islands and that of Newfoundland shall be limited to the middle of the channel. " Manchester. "Given at Versailles, the 3rd September, 1783." Counter Declaration of his most Cltristian Majent;/. — " The principles which have guided the King in the whole course of the negotiations which preceded the re-cstablishment of peace must have convinced the King of Great Britain that his Majesty has had no other design than to render it solid and lasting, by preventing as much as possible, in the four quarters of the world, every subject of discussion and quarrel. " The King of Great Britain undoubtedly places too much confidence in the uprightness of his Ma- jesty's intentions, not to rely upon his constant atten- tion to prevent the islands of St. Pierre and Mique- lon from becoming an object of jealousy between the two nations. " As to the fishery on the coasts of Newfoundland, which has been the object of the new arrangements settled bv the two sovereigns upon this matter, it is sufficiently ascertained by tho fifth article of the treaty of jieace signed this day, and by the declara- tion likewise delivered to-day by iiis Britnnnic Ma- jesty's Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipoten- tiary; and his Majesty declares that he is fully satisfied on this head. " In rejfard to the fishery between the island of Newfouiulland, and those of St. Pierre and Mitpielon, it is not to be carried on by either party but to the middle of the channel ; and his majesty will give the most positive orders that the French fishermen shall not go 'ueyond this line. His Majesty is firmly ))er- suaded that the King of Great Britain will give lik* orders to the English fishermc!!." " CiiviMi at Vfirsaillcs, the .'ird S^'ptcnilnM-, 17H3" 2(i ffi h 298 TREATIES WITH FRANCE AND WITH THE UNITED STATES. The rights of fishing conceded to the citi- zens of the United States arc clearly speci- fied in the accompanying extract : — Treat;/ of I'Sa.— Art. a. "It is n(?ree(l that the people of the United States shnll coiitimie to enjoy vinmolested the rijfht to tnke fish of every kind on the Ornnd Dnnk, und nil other Hunks of P^ewfound- .nnd, nlso in the Onlf of St. Tiawrencc, nnd nt nil other places in the sea, where the inhnhitnnts of holh countries used at any time heretofore to fish ; nnd also that the inhahitnnts of the United States shall have liherty to tnke fisli of any kind on such part of the const of Newfoundland as British fishermen shall use (but not to dry nnd cure the snme on that island), nnd also in bays and creeks of all otbvr of his Dritamiic Mnjcstv's dominions in America) and that the American fishermen shnll have liberty to dry nnd cure fish in any of the unsettled bavs, nnr- hours, and creeks of Nova Scotia, Alaj^dalen Islands, nnd Labrador, so long ns the same shall remain un- settled! but so soon us the same or either of them shall be settled, it shall not be lawful for the said fishermen to cure and dry fish nt such settlements without a jjrtvious agreement for tlint purpose with the inhabitants, projjrietors, or possessors of that ground." In 1785 the resident population of New- foundland, amounted to l(),2tl', who had 8,03i acres of land under cultivation, but this increase in numbers, and civilization, only made more evident the inefficiency of the existing system of government, to re- strain disorders, redress grievanccu, and settle the questions respecting the rights to landed property and ship-room, concern- ing which mcmoritds were continually sent to England In 1789, admiral Milbanke was appointed governor, with authority to Ibrm a Court of Common Pleas, which, however, failed to j)roducc the desired effect, and in 1792 a Supreme Court of Judicature was established, with surrogate courts in the principal districts, John Reeves, Esq. being sent out ii chief justice. War was again declared between Engl.and and France, but this time Newfoundland, instead of stiffering thereby, received much benefit, The Uritish squadron was not only suffi- ciently strong to protect the fisheries, but nlso to exclude the other European nations, M'hile the United States had not then the ])Ower of entering into any formidable rivalry. in 1814, the exports are said to have risen to .£2,831,528. In the same year jieaee was concluded, and the British goverinnent (or rather Lord Castlereagh), notwithstanding the urgent remonstrance of the merchants and others connected with the trade, con- ceded to France the same privileges which she had possessed j)reviou8 to the war, by virtue of the following article in the treaty of Paris : — Trmtij of Pavk, 1811.— Art. «.— " His Britanrio majesty, stipulating for himself and his allies, engages to restore to his most Christian majesty, within the term which shall be hereafter fixed, the colonics, fisheries, factories, and establishments of every kind' which were possessed by Frnnce on the Ist of Jan- uary, 1792, in the seas, and on the continents of America, Africa, and Asia, with exception, however, of the islands of Tobago and St. Lucie, anp, and 200 fathoms long. Their copelin seins were from 21 feet to 60 in depth : two were held by each establishment. The cost of a cod sein crev amounted for the season to 0,000 livrcs, and the catch thereof to 1,200 quintals. " From the numerous interviews I had with the merchants and the naval commaniitr?. i; was appa- rent that they considered the cod fishery on that coast as their own, and that they would not consent to any competition, \mle88 an equivalent were granted them ; i'ence the orders issued by the ministers, the copy of which, handed me by the commodore, was similar to that displayed by CaptJiin Lavoe : — viz. That t.'ie Americana were to be dnren from the coast, and the Britith not tn be countenanced in f/reater num- bers than were necessary for the seeuritt/ of the French properti/ in the winter. The absolute right of salmon fishery did not appear to be so strenuously insisted on as that of the cod ; indeed, from the contest at Cod Koy, immediately within their own limits, and *ho evasive reply of the commodore on the question respecting it, together with other circumstances, it did not appear to me, that they considered they had any right to the brooks, or the shores of tlie hnr- liours, other than that of catching and curing cod fish thereon. " To the soil they had not any claim, further than that portion necessary for the purjioscs of tli"ir fishery. To insure sullicient space for t'lit purpose they have invariably selected the best and most capa- cious situations in each harbour, and by occupymg the whole front, preclude the possibility of any other person a])proaching the situation selected for this scene of their businoss. "The coast abouiils with timber of very excellent dpscription for the purposes of the fishery. The land is good, for the most part jiroducin^,' every species of grass spontjmcously, and in gi'cat iibundanct, free from bogs, and not a rush to be found on it or any portion of it. Indeed I could rmt discover any that could be deemed marshy, or at all aiiproaching to it. "A long period has sinTP eliiiKi d with !iit any l)enelit resulting to this conmiunity, as the iruit of llie expedition, which was sent fo. th at some coiisi- d(Table expense to the merchants ut St. John's. (Signed) "Wm. Hwkcti.and.'' The practical effect of the claims ouforccd by the French of exclunve riglits on our coast, and wliicli as justly may bo cluimcd on the coast of Sussex, is the virtual cession of the larf^er and better half of Newfomul- land to France. So strong were the national feelings at one period respecting the value of the British fiaiieries, tiiat — "The Act of loth and 11th William and Mary declares the trade and fisheries of Newfoundland u beneficial trade to the kingdom, in the eniployinent of a great number of seamen and ships, to the in- crease of her majesty's revenue and the encourage- ment of trade and navigation. " The same jiarliament came to ii resolution, ■ that the trade of Newfoundland doth very much promote navigation, increase seamen, and is of great profit to the nation.' " The privilege of fishing ceded to the French by the Treaty of Utrecht wos loudly condemned; it formed one of the principal grounds of impeachment against the Earl of Oxford, ' that he, the said Robert, Earl of Oxford, and Earl Mortimer, in de- fiance of the express provisions of an Act of I'arlia- ment, as well as in contempt of the frequent and earnest representations of the merchants of Great liritain, and of commissioners of trade and planta- tions, did advise his majesty finally to agree with France that the subjects of France should have liberty of fishing, and drying fish in Newfinmdlaiid.' " The committee of secrecy, in 1715, on the'lVeaty of Utrecht, leportcd, ' What was really of most im- portance to England was the 8th Article, which relates to Hudson's Bay and Newfoundland; but the ministry suffered themselves to be grossly imposed upon in the article that ibey directly gave to Franc afl they wanted, whiuii ».•» the liberty of Inking ami drying fish in ^^-wfounJland. And as tlie acceptant - of this ame'-.imciit was to put an end to all vfic dif- ferences, and. at the same time, give such ampk advantages to France, the French readily agreed to it, and did insert the article verbatim as it was sent in the treaty of commerce, which makes the iJlli article as it stands; and is the same which was re- quested by the last parliament. This article, which has since been so universally anAjusily condemned, appears to be the work of the English ministry, and the price for which they sold to France the fishery of Newfoundland.' " Mr. Pitt declared, in the House of Com- mons, that no exclusive rights had been granted to the French. " The fishery," said he, in reference to the claim of Spain, " <',v a point %ve should not dare to yield thouyh the Spaniards were masters of the Tower of Lon- don I" The present oxf^cllcnt govenior, Sir G. Lc Marehaut, reports tiiat, by means of the French proceedings, " t/ie British Jank fishery has ceased to exist." The subjects of the crown in Newfound- land feeling deeply the importance of tiic matter, have again brought it under the considcrutioii of the colonial legislature, and a committee of the House of Assembly have ill consequence niaile the following report thereon : — I !| LOUD CHATHAM A^ MH. IIUSKISSON ON THIi FISHERIES. 801 The Ni'vfimniltund Ks/i/r ic«. - -" The Dnnk iind Slioio Kishcrics Imvc i'nj;n>.'C(l tln' drop nttcntiiin of your committee. 'IIicbu important Hubjoots liiivi' not hilliorto licen invt'stiuated l)y the It^finlature ; they hiive tliercfore considered it thoi; duty to tiiitc n ponernl review of them from the enrlieJtt period. These fisheries nrc cocvul with tlie colonial domi- nion and maritime superiority of Knjjlimd. New- foundland wan her earliest colonial j)o»session ; the lisheries, the first nursery of iLwe seamen that pained for her the dominion of the ocean, and with it her vast, unbounded cidonial enijiire, and the trade of the world. " Soon after the discovery of the island by Caliot, in the reinn of Henry VII., tlie lisheries jjave cmjiloy- ment to a cousiderablc iiunditr of ships and seamen. As far back as the year 151!», an Act of the British Parliament (Kdward VII.) was passed for the better encouragement of the lisheries of Newfoundland. During the reigns of Kli/.abeth, James I., Uharlen I. and II., the trade and Hsluries engaged much of the attention of the Crown and Parliament. There were two hundred and sixty ships employed in the New- foundland fisheries in the reign of Klizabeth. The seamen nursed in these fisheries maiidy assisted in manning her fleets, which defeated the powerful Aimiiila of Spain. " Charles I., in a commission for well-governing his subjects of Newfoundland, observes, 'the naviga- tion and mariners of the realm have been much in- creased by the Newfoundland fisheries.' Vurious .\ets were passed in the reign of Charles II., aiul m.-asurcs were adopted to revive the fisheries of New- foundland, which had greatly declined. The pre- amble of the Act 10th and 11th William and Mary declares, tluit ' the trade and fisheries of Newfound- .and is a beneficial trade to the kingdom, in the em- ploying of a great numlier of seamen and ships, to the Micrea^e of Her Majesty's revenue, and the encou- nigenunt of trade and navigation.' " The Act Iflth George III. declares the fisheries to be ' best nurr.eries for able and experienced seamen, dways ready to man the Royal Navy when occasion may require; and it is of the greatest national impor- tance to give all due encouragement to the said lisheries.' "In 1703, Lord Chatham, then Mr. Tilt, negotiated in the first instance the treaty of Paris, whieli upon 1ms resignation of ollicc was concluded by Lord Hute. Lord Cliathan), who had contended ou the jjart of England for the whole exclusive fishery of Newfouiul- land, and affirmed it to be of itself an object worthy lo be contested by the extremity of war, censured severely his successor in office, for having ri^turned to France some of the privileges which she had lul'orc enjoyed upon the coast, and for having cedetl, in addition, St. Pierre and Miquelon. " By the Treaty of 17S3, additional concessions w(!re made to France in the fisheries of Newfound- land. No part of the treaty was more uniformly- ensured than that which related to Newfoundland. The preliminary articles were censured by a vote in the House of (Commons, and the ministry of the day had to retire : however, the advantages ceded to the French were confirmed. Lord Viscount Townshend said, ' The admission of that nation (the French) to a j)articii)ation of the Newfoundland fisheries, was a ;,irre of the most dri .uUul policy and concession that evi^r disgraced a nation.' Mr. Fox said, ' it was evi- dent that our fisheries in Newfoun\stcm no alteration whatever has been made, nor do I believe that any ever will be contemplated.' Sir 1 Toward Douglas said that ' the fisheries in the Bri- tish quarters of America were the most jiroductive in the world ; if they were not ours, whose would they be ? What would be the effect of the total abandon- ment and transfer to another power of this branch of industry, upon our commercial marine, ond conse- quently upon our navnl ascendancy?' " Your committee coi.d, without end, produce au- thorities, both B.iiish .ind Foreign, to prove the ines- timable value of thu (islieries on the Great Bank and shores of Newi-'mi'.lu.id. The French government have at all piviods dul} estimated its importance, 'fhc American evui before they were separated from the government of the parent country, but more particularly since, have lost no ojiiiortunity to extend the Fisheries in the gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the banks and shores of Newfoundland. Your committee would conclude ujion this head by referring to the opinion of a celebrated French authority (L'Abbe llaynal on the great value, in a commercial and national point of view, of the Newfoundland fisheries: "' The Colonies,' he says, ' have exhibited a series of injustice, oppression, and carnage, which will for ever be holden in detestation. Newfoundland alone i ^h-m ■ « en went in search of in the New I World? It was lon(? before it was understood, if ' even it be yet understood, that the representation of the thing is not of greater value than the thing itself, and that a shin hllvd with cod and a galleon are ; vessels equally laden with gold i — there is even this remarkable difference, that niines_ can bo exhausted, nnd the flsheries never arc. Gold is not reproductive, but the flsh are so incessantly.' "Your committee consider it necessary ti oxphin the grounds on which they refer to so many autho- rities to prove the value of the Newfoundland (ishe ries. The proposition, as far as they could learn, has never yet been questioned. They were induced to make these references in conseciucnce of the utter neglect with w hich these tiiheries have been rcpariU'd by the Uritish government since tlie peace of IHll, on the one hand, and the avidity with which they were prosecuted by the French and American gov- ernments, on the other. ' Orcut Ilritain, who owns, I supports, anJUt». il!)' i,aii !IH2 1 ■MO [11 2,lli:i il7 2,258 :3 « i'O,; a a-p ' a u 'A ; ■H s 1,01!) a./ldii Hill :t,.iiil 2/i:)2 0,ti.).) 2,882 12,H4I) IIISTOUY OP TIIH FISIIEIUKis OP NEWFOUNDLAND, 803 It'll thniiinnil. A ri'pnrt of the Lnrdi of the Priyy Council of Trnilc HtaUn, in 171H, that Ihn iiidulguncu Nhown to the pliuitirK in 1)177, liy permitting; tlitn) to li'niairi in tlic i;oiintry, rundfri'cl th(> ctmrtiT incii't'O- tuiil, rt'ducL'd the fislicry to tlic lowo»t t'lih, iind fiivonrcd botli the !■ ri'nch and Ni-w I'lnnliindiTH in (iiirryiiiK on tlic tisliinK-triiilc. The »iinu' ri'imrt, in furllRT iiccountiim for the (h'clinu of the Uritish ll:»lurio«, altrihu'ud it muinly U) the ni'nlict in unforc- in({ 'he 10th urticlu of llio t'hnrter of Churlos I., wlii h ordnhid — "' That no imthoh "hnll «ct up nny tnvrrn for seil- irjj of vino, oetT, &(•., to entertain the finhernnn, \c. i mid it i» an certain tlnit the Honrishinn stnto of the tlsliery trade during; the aforcnaid period was, in n fjreat measure, owin)' to this whoU'son-.e proliibi- tioM I fur as lon^ ns it was maintained, so iunu the trade prospered, and it was no sooner dispenseowitli tlian the trade sensilily (h'clined j and althougli 'he nhmters were afterwards kept in awe for some tii.ie i)y the charters tliat were granted by Kin^ Charles 11., which confirmed tlin same prohiliition, never- tlieless, when that difficulty was surmounted, and they were at lll)erty to pursue tlioir own measures, the fishery immediately languished.' "The true causes of the falling-off of the British fishery may bo attributed to the unequal competition with which it had to contend from foreigners, their fisheries on the Newfoundland coast liavinB been invariably supported by large bounties and other encouragements. It can lie much more satisfactorily accounted for in that way tiian to attribute it to the settlemimt of the island, a resident population, or wen to the eatiiblishment oftavernn nml p'tblic-hoiises. " A subsequent report of the lords of the committee of the Privy Council of Trade, on the subject of the Nev, foundland fishery, dated 17th March, 178(3, ac- counts for it in a much more satisfactory manner wlien they state — " 'The French give a bounty upon fish, the pro- duce of their fishery, imported into their West India islands, of ten liurea per quintal, and at the same time lay a duty of five livreaycr quintal upon all fish im- ported into those islands by foreign nations. This bounty and duty taken together is equal to n pro- hibition of foreign fish ; and it is a clear proof ttiat, even in the opinion of their own government, nothing les": than an encouragement more than equal to the Urst cost of their fish, can enable their fishery to have a share of their own morkets in the West Indies. " ' The French also give a bounty of five lives per quintal upon all fish, the produce of their fishery, carried into Spain, Portugal, and Italy. This bounty is also so extravagant as clearly to evince the opinion of the French government of the low state of their fishery. If the legislature here was to give a like bounty upon the fish of your majesty's subjects car- ried to those markets, it would amount to £120,000 Jier annum. Such a measure can therefore be culcu- ated merely to introduce their fish into those mar- kets, but can never be intended as a permanent encouragement.' " Your committee wish particularly to draw atten- tion to those opinions of the lords of the committee of the privy council of trade, to show how mistaken they were in supposing that the French intended their bounties merely as a temporary expedient. It will further appear that they have not only continued them down to the present time, but have extended the fishery thereby to an extent greater than at any former period. ■' Your eommittco having shown that it w^s large bounties uh>nu enabled the French to carry on the tUliery on the oast of Newfoundland down to the perirxl of 170.'), have now briefiy to remurk, that fVoni the war which liroke out in that year until the year j IHII. with the slight interi'uution of the peace of Amiens of IHO'J, the llritish liad full poHsussion of the fiiheries, iindiHtiirbed bv the competition of the Kreneh. l)iiring that period the fisheries greatly increased and pro> " Your «(mimlH<'(i will now briefly remark upon the i Btato of tliu (iNlicrliw from the peace of 1814 down to | the proHiit period, having to contend with difficulties ' alru(uly nntl(^ti(l. Thrown altogether upon their own 1 runourowd, linni(l(Kl by the parent government, it must ' anpcar (lllll(!lill to account for tlie preservation, bv tlio jlrillsli, (ifuven a remnant of the fisheries. Ac- i (Jordlliff to nil mercantile calculation, they should i hn'io fallen Info tli;i hands of the French and Ameri- cans ! howdvcr, tliu necessities of the largo population wliii'h grew uji (luring the period of n prosperous (Ishitry workcil for Itself auxiliary means of cmi)loy- mont. 'f li(t ciilllviitlon of the soil — combining fishing and fnritiliig— liiiit enabled them to exist in the coun- try, B?i(l thcrtiliy to iirenervo the in-shore fishery, the only portion tliiit now remains to them. They have oxtondwd tlmt lUhery, and the aggregate quantity of fisll enilght Is ii(|Uat to that of the amount of the most prnsimrouK years, " Your ('onillill lee, in making this admission, contend tlinf !t only proves that a trnile capabli! of holding up agiilnitt (llflltilllllcs that wo-jld have ov^'rwhclmed any other ill lior iniijesty's wide-u^ftendod dominions, is worthy of itioro iittention and consideration from the parent govdrntnoiit than has hitherto been extended towards It, " Jlritliih lliiiik Fiflwry.—'Yhe Great Bank Fishery suddenly ih-cllmMl alter the treaties of 1814 and 1818. Ill llie yenr 1771 It gave employment to about 400 sail of reglHlcri'il vessels, averaging from 80 to 140 tons Imrllum, ciiiploying from 8,000 to 10,000 fisher- men niul sliori'ini'n. As many as 140 sail was fitted out I'l'OMI lliii (IlKlrlet of St. John's, and the remainder from the various harhours of the island. This im- port/ml braiM'll of the British fishery was extensively proseeuti'd (liirliig the whole of the French war. No sooner (lid IIki French regain the privilege of prosc- ciilliig tlui fishery, than tlieir extensive bounties iin- dermlncil the Itrltlsh Hank l'ish(>ry. Various attempts have liceil limdc to participate in it, but every atteuiiit only lirouglit rnin and dlHiippointment on the British nicrdiaiits or (Islicriiienj the consequcn-e is, at tlii-i tiiili', llnil the grciil Ncwfotmdlaml Bank Fishery, so valiialije In n ciiinimrciiil, but more pnrticulariy in a nutioiml point of view, is surrendered without a (ilriiggle to the rivals of Kngland, the French and Ainci'lciins I tliesc pipwcrs emjiloying at least 1,000 vcsHeU of coMslderaolc liurthen. manned with not less lliun ,'10,00(1 dCiiincn 1 the British not having more than llv'i v(.ki((i|k und OO men employed in the great dii'p-Niii fishery on the Imnks of S'ewlVnindland. "Yiiiir(!oniinilti'i' have to draw your attention totlie modi' (if lliililiig lately ndoplid by the French. They havi' iidopt^'il what is called the Bultow system, by wlil(!h liiealls llicy extend lintm and hooks miles round the sliiji, Kor a pnrliciilnr and accurate descripti(in oflhlH mode of finhiiig, your committee have to rcit'i* to the stiili'llientK of Messrs, Miidge and Co. appendiid to this ri'Jiiirt. VourroMimitlcc', in reference to this Buliji'(!t, (uive rcaiiin to believe lliiit tlu^ Bultow sys- m BRITISH, FRENCH, AND AMERICAN FISHERIES. 305 tern of fishing is most destructive • — it is a novel mode of flshiiifr not sanctioned by any previous prac- tice or custom. A question may arise, whether it is not a violation of the spirit of the treaty with France. It is a subject that should, without delay, be broufjht under the considerai-'on of her majesty's government,* Your committee have not sufficient data to give a particular and authentic account of the French and American fisheries prosecuted in the Gulf of St. Law- rence and on the banks and shores of Newfound- land. " French Fisheries. — It is universally admitted by all those who are acquainted with the subject, that the French occupy by far the best fishing stations. Having possession of the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, they can prosecute the fishery to the Grand Bank with the greatest facility. Tney have also what has been called the Garden of Newfoundland, the line of coast from Cape Ray to Cape John : that portion between Cape John and Straits Belle Isle secures to them the most prolific fishing-grounds j they not o'.iv iiA\e the advantage of catching a larger quantity ' f fish, but the climate is found, by the ab- sence 0*' fog, much more suitable for making and curin.n it, aiid preparing it for the foreign markets. • The principal British fishery was carried on in that quarter during the war. To use the words of an intelligent writer on the subject — ' British fishers are consequently driven to the shores of Labrador, a longer voyage, where the quality of the fish, and the means of drying and curing them, are far inferior. The north-eastern coast of Newfoundland happens to be precisely that which is most exempted from fog \ the same winds which envelop other parts of the island in damp and mist, leave this portion clear and dry — a circumstance unknown, or apparently unre- garded, by those who, in addition to other conces- sions of land and water, seem to have given away the light and heat of the sun ; — the consequence is, that in the curing of our fish a great part is destroyed by fog and damp, while the French fishermen, in addi- tion to the abundance and quality of their fish, pos- sess and monopolise the still greater advantage of the clearest and sunniest coast.' "Your committee have reason to believe that this exclusive fishery is a usurpation on the part of the French — that all they are entitled to by treaty is a concurrent right j at the same time it must be ad- mitted that their exclusive claim has, in some degree, been sanctioned by the forbearance and policy of the British government. " The extent of the French fishery of St. Pierre and Miquelon, and on the other coasts of the islands, may be estimated by a catch of 1,000,000 quintals of fish, employing upwards of 700 sail of large ships, and from 20,000 to 25,000 fishermen and seamen. The French, both of St. Pierre and Miquelon, on the northern part of the island, carry on an illicit trade with the British settlers, particularly in bait, for the supply of their bankers, which is greatly injurious to • \Vr copy tho following account of the operations of the French fishermen on the coast of Ncwfoundlanil : — " The ycsscIm, it appears mostly anchor in lat. 50' N. and long. 69' 20' W. in about 45 fathoms water, veer 90 or 100 fathoms of cabin, and prepare to catch cod-fish with two quarter-inch lines of .3,000 fathoms long each. On those a small cork is placed at every 12 feet, and while metal hooks baited with parts of small fish (by us called kiblings) are alternately fastened by snoods of 3 feet long, fi feet apart, and tho whole neatly coiled in halt-bushel baskets clear for running out. Half the number of baskets ore then placed in a strong-built lugsnil boat on each side ; at three o'clock uu the allornoon both make tail together at right angles vol,. I. British interests, and calculated to destroy the British fisheries on the coast by depriving them of their regular supply of bait. Your committee have to draw ;iarticular attention to this point, and have to refer to the evidence appended to this report. " In making this brief reference to the French fisheries, your committee must observe, that if the British and French fisheries were, prosecuted without encouragement in the form of bounties, British in- dustry, notwithstanding the other advantages pos- sessed by the French, would assume its usual superioiity; but it is impossible for them to compete with the French, upheld as they are by immense bounties. The object of France is not to create a trade, but to create a navy. It is forcibly said by Mr. M'Gregor, in his history — ' In ceding to France the right of fishing on the shores of Newfoundland, from Cape John to Cape liay, with the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, we gave that ambitious nation all the means that her goveiumont desires of manning a navy ; and if we were letcrmined to lay a train of '■-"umstances which, by their operation, should sap the very vitals of our native strength, we could not more effectually have done so than by granting a full participation of those fisheries to Friiuee and America.' " American Fisheries, — Your committee, in refer- ring to the American fisheries, \mve also to say that they liave no data to ground a correct estimate of them i but they can state that they ore very extensive, employing from 1,300 to 2,00 sail of deck vessels, averaging from 40 to 100 tons burthen. Tlie catch of fish in the British waters has been estimated at 1,100,000 quintals, which must give employment to 25,000 fishermen and seamen. The American fishers are observed in great numbers on tlie Grand Bank, and on the fishing-grounds in the Gulf of St. Law- rence — all along the shores of Nova Scotia, Prince Edward's Island, Newfoundland, and the shores of Labrador. They commence their fishery early in the spring, and follow it up with the greatest assiduity to the latest period of the fall. The American fishery is encouraged by a bounty of twenty shillings per ton, and the supplv of their own markets protected by a duty of five shillings per quintal on foreign fish. ^" Your committee have to observe, that the ^reat catch of fish by the Americans, suiiported as it is by bounties and other encouragements, operates, con- currently with the French catch and bounties, to sap the foundation of the British fishery." Tlierc is no further historical incident re- quiring record, save that in 1847 the capital, St. John, was again nearly totally destroyed by fire. The foUowiog is a list of the gov- ernors of Newfoundland, which includes .some of the most distinguished names in the British navy: — from the vessel, and when the lines are nil run out straight, sink them to within five feet of the bottom. The creio having rested all night, they proceed again the next momtag at dnvbrcak to trip the sinker, and while hauling in lines, unhoijliing fish, &c., tho men left on board heave in the other end with e winch. When in that manner 400 cod- fish are caught ui a night, some are then employed lino- clearing, Hsh-beheadlng, splitting, salting, and stowing them away in layers across r ich other below : livers and refuse boiled to oil put in large casks on deck. Three monthi 5' ems to be the average time employed,— arriving early in June, and departing again iu October." Mil III UM «i'i f. kh- 306 GOVERNORS OF NEWFOUNDLAND SINCE 1729. Ooveraon. Year. Capt. Oabome, R.N 1729 „ Clinton, R.N „ „ Vanbrugh, R.N 1737 „ Lord G. Graham, R.N. . . .1740 „ Hon. J. Byng, K.N 1741 „ Sir C. Hardy, :i.N. .... 1744 „ Rodney, R.N. 1749 „ Drake, R.N 1750 „ Bonfoy, R.N 1733 „ Dorril, R.N 1755 „ Edwards, R.N 1757 „ Webb, R.N 1760 „ Groves, R.N. 1761 „ Palliser, R.N 1764 „ Hon. J. Bvron, R.N 1769 Commodore Moiyneaux .... 1772 Duff 1773 Admiral Montague 1776 „ Edwards 1779 Governors. Year Admiral Can.pbell 1782 Elliot 1780 „ Milbanke 1789 King's 1793 „ Sir J. Wallace 1794 „ Wnldegrave 1797 >, Pole ■ . 1800 „ Gnmbier 1802 „ Sir E. Gower 1804 „ HoUoway 1807 „ Sir J. Duckworth .... 1810 „ Sir J. Keats 1813 „ Pickmore 1816 „ Sir C. Hamilton . . . .1818 Capt. Sir T. Cochrane, R.N. . . . 1825 „ Prescott, R.N 1834 Major-General Sir J. Harvey . . .1841 Hon. F. W. A. Bruce 1846 Lieutenant-Colonel Sir J. G. Le Marchant . 1847 CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, SOIL, AND CLIMATE. ANIMAL KINGDOMS. VEGETABLE AND Newfoundland stands on an immense bank, in length about 600 miles, and in breadth about 200 miles, with soundings varying from 25 to 95 fathoms j the base being a mass of solid rock. There are apparently two banks, the outer one lying within 44^ 10' and 47° 30' N. lat., and within 44° 15' and 45° 25' W. long., with soundings vary- ing from 100 to 150 fathoms. Newfound- land is in form, nearly an equi-lateral tri- angle, the apex being to the northward and the base extending east and west, between Capa Ray and Cape Race. The coast is every where indented, at intervals of two or three miles, by broad and deep bays, innu- merable harbours, coves, creeks, and rivers. The shores .^re all rocky, with pebble beaches, often covered with stunted wood nearly to the water's edge; with lofty headlands on the south-west side. The interior of the island remained unexplored until 1823, when Mr. Cormack, accompanied by some Indians, succeeded in traversing tiie island from east to west, viz. from Trinity Bay to St. George'c Bay. From his account, the interior would ajipcar to be rocky, with numerous tracts of moss ; much intersectcid by rivers and lakes, and but tliinly wooded, except on the banks of the rivers, where poplars, birches, and spruce firs grow. The British settlements are almost entirely con- fined to the coast line; the best manner of conveying an idea of their relative positions, and of the country generally, or at least of the limited portion with which we are ac- quainted will therefore be by passing regu- larly round, examining by the way the chief bays, harbours, &c., commencing with the large peninsula, named Avalon, which con- stitutes the south-eastern portion of the island, and on which St. John's, the capital, is situated. The deep bays of Trinity and Placentia, fonn the peninsula, and are sepa- rated only by an isthmus about three miles broad. Two other considerable bays, those of St. Mary and Conception, run parallel with these, and dividi!>jj the peninsula into three lesser ones, give Avalon a very mui- sual proportion of water frontage, whicli from its proximity to the Great Bank, is of great value, and adds materially to the im- portance attached to it, from its situation with regard to Eu' pe. St. John is .■ u ted on the open eastern coast, in 47° 33' 33" N. lat., and 52° 45' 10" W. long. The harbour is spacious and *'c- cure, every where excepting towards its ter- mination of great dept! , having upwards of 90 feet in tlie centre, and land-locked by high hills, which on its 80ut>. side afford uo ST. JOHN, THE CAPITAL OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 307 shore, and on its north admit a strand, built over with warehouses and wharfs. The remarkable entrance, called the Nar- rows, is thus described by Sir R. Bonny- castle ; — " The ship, passing the open road- stead, or one-sided Bay of St. John's, scarcely sees the extremely narrow pass in the high land which she must make, and on entering the Narrows, she has nearly half a mile of intricate navigation before she opens the whole harbour. On entering she has on her right hand, a precipice of sandstone and slate rock, nearly perpendicular, to the height of 300 feet, above which almost as steep, frowns the citadel called Signal Hill, a very narrow crest, 510 feet above the ocean waters. The Narrows themselves are only 900 feet across their sea-face, and diminish to about 400; so that from the deck, in passing, one looks up to the batte- ries upon batteries frowning in the sky, or on the edge of perpendicular cliffs. On the left the mountain is above 600 feet in alti- tude, broken, abrupt, and very picturesque, admitting however, near the water, a sort of slioulder of small elevation, bristled with dangerous rocks, and shewing again batte- ries near the water's edge, with a jutting promontory of solid rock, on which there is a formidable work with the harbour-light perched on the top of a vaulted barrack. After she has passed two-thirds of the Narrows, the town begins to open. In frout is old Fort-William; on her right here, a strong water-level battery ; and immediately over her, Waldcgrave's battery, half-way down the precipice, with the Crow's Nest, a beautiful cone, capping all." In war time a chain is thrown from here to the Pancake Rock (a dangerous shelf on the opposite side), to prevent the admission of any hostilo vcssol. " The harbour then opens by a tuii., at right angles to the westward, and the whole city appears climluug up the side rf a hill." From the above graphic account, it will be readily understood that St. John's is u place of considerable strength, both from its natural position, and the fortifications erected for its protection. The streets arc long and straggling ; Queen-street, the principal one, has good stone houses, and is from 30 to 40 feet broad. Fort Towiiseiid, the former residence of the governor, stands in the rear of the town. The new govcrument-house is on a scale very dispi(i,>ortioaate to the in- come attiiched to the government ; the posi- tion also appears ill-chosen, being bleak and much exposed, for which the noble view it commands can hardly compensate. The first estimate for its erection was .£9,000; it was said to have cost nearly £250,000, but Sir R. Bonnyeastle, on the authority of the officer through whom the payments were made, states the ultimate expenditure at much lei." than £35,000, including the fur- niture. The chief public buildings are St. John's church — a fine stone cathedral in course of erection bv the Roman catholics — the factory, to which the poor resort in winter to knit stockings, make nets, &c., and which contains a large and handsome public ball-room, an hospital, Wesleyan and congregational chapels, public schools, the old wooden court-house, with the jail, and some others. The town has been of late years much altered ; indeed the calamitous fires mentioned in the foregoing chapter, by destroying great numbers of wretched wooden tenements made way for houses of a much better class. Sir Gaspard le Marchant, the present governor of Newfoundland, in a despatch dated 23rd May, 1848, thus adverts to the condition of the capital : — " During the past year, gfreat exertions liave been made by the inhabitants of the town of St. John's to repair their losses, occasioned by the fire of the 9th June of the preceding year. New lines of streets have been laid out on an improved plan, both as to width and regularity, and intersected at suitable dis- tances with cross streets or fire-breaks. In several quarters of the town new buildings have been com- menced, and the works carried on with great spirit and cnei'gy. "I" r!io lower street. Water-street,, on the side commr '' o. the frontage of the harbour, many handsoij . shops and substantial warehouses of stone and bri k have been erected, at very considerable expense, by '^he merchants, and this part of the town wears on improved appearance. Very many of these have been erected at a cost varying from £4,000 to £S,000, and the ground renlal of the premises lining this frontage averages £3 a square foot. The Act, however, rendering it con.Dulsory that all buildings in this street, as well as tlie south side of the street lying immediately above it in a parallel line, called Duckworth-street, should be either of brick or stone, does not come into operation till the next year ; and it is much to be feared that, at the meeting of the local legislature, many and strenuous attempts will l)e made, and those successfully, for a further postpone- ment of this most desirable measure ; for, until this has been effected, in consequence of the contiguity of so many wooden buildings, serving only temporary purposes, the danger of a fire again spreading its ravages throughout the city, fhmigh to a certain degree lessened, will not be removed. " The public buildings now in the course of erec- tion are the custom-house, which will be completed in the spring, the colonial building, to be appro- priated for the meetings of the local legislature, and the I'rotestant cathedral, towards which half the amount raised under the authority of the queen's "!! I 808 ^50UTHER^^f SHORES OP NEWFOUNDLAND. letter for the relief of tire sufferers by the fi.'e hns been appronriated. A site hus been fixed on for a market-house, and a sum of money voted for its erection, but, owing to the embarrassed condition of the finances of the colony, as yet no progress has been made with the work, " In the past year I have, out of the funds at the disposal of the government, formed two large tanks in the centre of the town, affording at all times a copious supply of pure and excellent water, and b'kewise, being frost proof, of the greatest utility in the event of accidents by fire occurring in tlicir neighbourhood. At one of the chief outlets , f liie town, commanding the frontage of the river, and forming tlie upper part of the harbour, a public walk, affording a place of recreation to all classes, as well as contributing to the health of the inhabi- tants, has been commenced, and in the course of the ensuing season will be completed. " Tlie crowded state of the burial-grounds in this town has likewise occupied my most serious atten- tion ; and for the purpose of abating, if not entirely removing, this evil, so loudly complained of by the inhabitants generally, I have purchased a piece of ground without the town, of nine acres in extent, and intend dividing and appropriating it as a ceme- tery for parties of all religious denominations, in jjroporlion to the number composing the several creeds, and shall use my best endeavours for the closing of those within the town. Two companies, the one for supplying the town with gas, the other for the supply of water, have '.leen incorporated by acts of the local legislaturi', ine former in the year 1844, whose works are completed and in full opera- tion; tlie latter in the year 1846, whose pipes are now being laid down, and it is presumed the town will have tlie benefit of the undertaking in the course of the spring. " As no assessments are in force for any local or fiscal purposes, it is impossible to form any accurate estimate of the value of either houseliold or other property in this town; tlio rental, however, of Water and Duckworth Streets has been by competent judges comi)Uted at between £30,000 and £40,000 a-year. The accompanying return, marked No. 2, will more accurately show tlie classification of the poi)ulation of this town, the number of their bouses, warehouses, \c., ns well as the foieign vessels trading at tliis port, and the extent to which the fisheries arc prosecuted by the capital of the island." A considerable portion of land in the neiglibourliood of St. Jolin's luis been bro\ip;ht under cultivation, and tliou<;li it doubtlesa requires much toil and expense to render it productive, and is certainly inferior to otlier tiistriets, yet the capabilities of the soil licre, as well as elsewhere, have been greatly underrated. In Captain Loch's ileport of the Fisheries, dated October, 1818, he says, " St. John's has enjoyed a more productive season than for nniny years past, which, wil'i the cheerinj^ I'.rospeet of 'jundant crops in grass, jirain, and potatoes, has giver, new vigour and life to tiie c.ipital after the fire and famine of the last and preceding years. Cape Sjiear, .d)out eight miles from St. John's harbour^ is the most eastern point of Newfoundland. It has on it alight-house, and is in 47° 30' 12" N. lat., and 52° 3.3' 27" W. long. Petty Harbour is a small and secluded station picturesquely situated ; more to the south is the Bay of Hulls, which extends two miles into the land. The harbour is difficult of access on account of a sunken rock; but once in, vessels may ride in safety. The settlement is pros- perous, near it are those of Witless Bay, Momables, and Brigus Bay, the last being of some importance. Cape Broyle is a good harbour, but of difficult entrance ; its south point is in 47° 2' N. lat., and 52° 55' W. long. Capelin Bay is an excellent harbour, a little to the south of it is that on which stands Ferryland, the first permanent settle- ment. Mr. M'Gregor states, " that a con- siderable extent of the surrounding land is under cultivation," while Mr. Chappell de- scribes the vicinity as rocky and destitute of any trace of cultivation. Ou the harbours of Aquaforte, Fermoise, and Rcnowes, are villages of the same names. We now arrive at Cape Race, the south-cast point of the island, in 46° 40' N. lat., and 53° 8' W. long. , further to the south-west are two capes, each called Mistaken Point, on ac- count of their being frequently mistaken for Cape Race in approaching the laud from the southward. The Virgin or Cape Race rocks, so much dreaded by mariners on this coast, are stated by Mr. Jones, master of H.M.S. Ifimar, to be in 4G° 2(3' 15" N. lat., and 52° 56' 35" W. long. ; they extend in an irregular cluster, tlie length being about 800 yards ; the breadth varying from 200 to 300 yards, tlic least water being four fathoms r.nd a half. Trepassey Bay, is a spacious inlet with a good harbour on its eastern shores, on which is a settU'ment of some importance. Tro- i ])assey Bav contains the smaller oays of Biscay and Glutton ; passing Cape I'ine find St. Shotts (the most dangerous portion of the coast), we arrive at St. Mary's Bay, wiiicl\ is well settled, and has several extci- sive eod-tishing establishments and salmon rivers, and i.-s separated by a tract of only ten mills from the head of Conception Bay, and of eight from that of Trinity. The next bay is t'lat of Pkcentia, whicli is about 60 miles deep and 45 broad. The entrance lies between ('ape St. Mary and Cape Chapeau Rouge, with several rugged islands near its head. The port and town of Placetitia lie on the I astern side ; and the chief harbour, which cnn only be entered by one ship at a SOUTH COAST OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 30U time, affords ancliorago for 150. North Harbour is situated nt tlui U|i|»('r extremity of Placentia Bay, the western side of (viiioli is well populated, and eontaiiis many har- bours, the principal of which are Marashccn island, Ilagged islaiul, and Morticvr and Burin Bay. The eastern portion of the n(!ck of land between the hays of I'lacentia and Fortune, is called Burin. From the head of Placentia Bay to Trinity Bav, there is a low isthmus, not more than tliroo miles in length, across which t'lo fiHhcrmen, during the time the French had posHCHsion, hauled their skiffs over ways laid for the purpose ; it is this isthmus which connects the poniu- sula of Avalon with the main body of the island. The French paid mncli attcintion to their settlement on the east side of Pla- centia Bay, which they stronmly fortified \vith the hope of driving the Unfflish en- tirely from the fisheries of Newfcmndland. May Point terminates the peninsula which separates Placentia Bav from Fortune Bay. From May Point to Cajio La Iluno is 17 leagues, and in this place lies l''()rtuno Bay (60 to 70 miles deep, and 20 to 30 broad), which receives several rWers flowing from the inland lakes, and contains numerous harbours und stations. The villa)?es of For- tune, Great Beach, and Lamelin, lie opposite the French islands of ^Mitiuelon and St. Pierre. Mr. Jukes speaks of two men in Lamelin who had " fifty head of cattle a piece," which they fed on the (j;rass (jrowi.njj; on the adjacent marshes. Tiie islands of Great and Little Mi(iueloii (the lesser of which is called Langley l)y the Kn^lish), were, some fiO or 70 years a^o, divided by a channel of two fathoms (lepth, which is now entirely filled u]), anil its oliiee oeenpicd by a long nariow line of sunn Iiills, with a beach on each side. ?.1r. iluk"s dcseribcs the scenery iis very strikiuj;, the IiIkIi land of Langlev sloping down towards the west, covered with rich green moss, into a dense mass of wood, and speaks also "of (!Xt(wvsive meadows, wheie etiough cl.cep and cows ore fed to supply St. Pierre imd the lunghbour- ing i)opulatiou ; " \n' adds, " they have very strict regulations in the ]H)rt ; no Knglish boats or vessels are allowed to oorne in having fish on board, on penalty of being 8P^:»;d, and no Knglislunau is allowed to bring English goods and nuuiid'aetnres, or to set up a shop in the town. There is, however, an American warelio'ise belonging to Athcrtou and Thome, whieli seemed to be doing a large busimss," St. I'ierre, Mr. Jukes describes as a mass of rocky hum- mocks, the hills rising to a height of 400 or .500 feet, directly from the water, the hol- lows and flatter parts consisting of marshes and pnnds. To the north of St. Pierre is a lofty islet called Colombier (dove-cote), from ihe multitude of puffins which breed there, and arc continually flying about in large flocks. To return to Fortune Bay, — at Harbour Britain there is a large mercantile establish- ment ; Hermitage Bay is being rapidly set- tled, and the Burgeo islands had in 1842, G.')0 inhabitants. The salmon fishery on this coast is extensive; and the neighbourhood is the scene of the Newfoundland whaling. At Little Barrysway, according to Sir R. Bonnycastle, 100 Mie-Mae Indians trade in salmon, geese, and furs. Proceeding west- ward we reach Port-aux-Basque, and passing Grand Bay, arrive at Cape llay, the westeru extremity of the island, in 47° 36' 49" N. lat., and 59° 31' W. long. From this Cape to the Great Bay of Notre Dame, the French claim the exclusive control of the coast, that is, oC all the western, northern, and north- eastern shores of this the oldest British colony. To quote once again the words of Sir R. Bonnycastle (and it would be difficult to find a better authority on the affairs of Newfoundland,) "notwithstanding all their treaties, their resident population amounts, it is said, to upwards of 12,000, and as they arc nearly all engaged in a most lucrative fishery, they receive every encouragement from their government, are registered as scameu, and, in fact, constitute to France what Newfoundland was before the last war to England, the nursery for her seamen." Captain Granville Loch, R.N., thus de- scribes the condition of the British settle- ment at St. George's Bay, ill an official report, under date 2nd October, 1848 : — " There are 200 resident planters in this bay who receive assiMtnnce in hands, during the fishing season, from Cajiu Jir-jtmi and its adjacent shores. Their liNliinB usually cnramcnccs a month or six weeks ear- lier than thi-i on the coast of Labrador. This year they began tlie 27th April. They fish herring, sal- mon, trout, and eels, besides the cod. Up to the presi'ul (lute (17th August), their catch has been 10,(H)e barrels of herrings, 200 barrels of salmon, and but A small quantity of cod. Thcv emjiloy about 2 'I boats and 800 hands, and leikf their fish to thi Halifax and dutbeo markets during the summer and fall. The fishings end about the Ist of October, with the f Kfeption of the eels, which are caught in great cjiiiiulities, and afford subsistence during the winter. Tin y have bait without int.-'rmission during the entire fishing, and use hening, caplin, squid, and clams. I 'I'lie dimato U usually dry and mild ; and if their ■ society was under proper control, St. George's )lay I •■■i;H m* m m ■■:v; 310 WEST COAST OP NEWFOUNDLAND. would offer many inducements to the industrious settler. The harbour is occasionally blocked up by ice, but for no length of time, ind is always open by the middle of April. The inhabitants consist of Eng- lish, a few Irish, and a number of lawless adventurers, the very outcasts of society from Cape Breton and Canada, and it is very distressing to perceive a com- munity, comprising nearly 1,000 inhabitants, settled in an English colony, under no law or restraint, and having no one to control them, if we except what may be exercised through the influence shown by the single clergyman of the Established Church, who is the only person of authority in the settlement. I am told, the reasoii why magistrates are not appointed is in obedience to direct orders from the Home Govern- ment, it being believed against the spirit of the troaty with France. Under these circumstances, I would recommend, either that a vessel of war should be ap- pointed to remain stationary in the harbour, or that the societ;; should be forcibly broken up and removed, for violent and lawless characters are rapidly increas- ing, and neither the lives nor property of any sub- stantial or well-disposed settlers are safe. Four cases of violent assault were brought to my notice as having recently been committed upon parties, some of whom were injured for life, ana others nearly murdered ; and I am sorry to understand the cul])rits had suc- ceeded in escaping into the woods upon the appear- ance of her majesty's ship. The cultivation of grain has been commenced with considerable success. Wheat, oats, and barley ripen well, and tumiiis grow exceedingly fine. Potatoes and garden-stun are cultivated also to a considerable extent. A great quantity of fur is collected j but the trappers suffer great losses by the frequent robbery of boui traps and their contents." Mr. Juki s desc. ibes the country south of St. George's Bay as gently undulating, with a fine short tuif, and more like some parts of England than any he had seen in New- foundland. He landed on llth September, 1839, at tl'c mouth of a brook near Crab's river, on a very pretty spot, with green meadows on each side of the brook, and a icYf neat houses clustered under the shelter of a rising bank, covered with green turf. Geese were feeding on the grass j ducks and poultry were scattered about; and a few cows and some sheep, gave it all the appear- ance of a pastoral scene ut home. There was actually a fence and a stile to get over into a small field, with a footpath across it. Tlie patriarch of the settlement, Mr. Morris, came and invited Mr. Jukes to sit do -u to breakfast with them, when he found plenty of fresh milk, eggs, and butter, hot rolls, excelh iit tea, and a snow-white table-cloth. It really seemed to the geologist a little puir-dise. From the rising ground bcliind the huu -e .'he view was very beautiful. A tract of nw lu'didating land, covered with a rich sea if wood, stretched away into the interior for 15 or 20 miles, and was backed by a range of blue hills iu the horizou that rose towards the S.W., while towards the N.E. they gradually died away, and coalesced with the hills at the head of the bay. The wood was not of the sombre hue so generally seen in Newfoundland, but was patched with the light green of the birch, and what the colonists term the viych hazel, the barm, and the aps, and j)robably the ash was pre- sent. Finally, says Mr. Jukes, the little rich-looking valley of the hrook, with its I bright waters winding sway into the woods, I completed a most lovely and most English | picture. Mr. Morris and his son-in-law, I Stephen Shears, arrived in Newfoundland [ without a shilling : they have now fields of wheat, cows, oxen, sheep, good habitations, and ev- i-y comfort. The climate, by their aecou'.it, is very fine during the summer; srow, they say, generally sets in about three weeks before Christmas, and breaks up in the beginning oi ' junl. There are sonu; Mic-Mac Indians in this fine bay, into which several rivers, emerging from the lakes in the interior, empty them- selvc-:, and on the N.W. lies the magniiicent double harbour of Port-au-Port, divided from it only by a narrow isthmus, from which point the most successful attempts have been made to explore the interior of the country, which is reported to he moun- tainous, abounding in rivers, extensive lakes (or ponds, as tiiey are called in ^v ewfouiul- land), and grassy plains. The ^ ■" j of Islands stretches out three arms into the land, one of which forms the embouche of the Ilnm- ber, the most considerable river yet known, its courue liaving been traced for 114 miles to the north-westward, where it issues from a cape of about ten leagues in length. On this bay there ai'e British settlers, a great timber station, and in it, as its name im- ports, are many islands — Pearl, Harbour, Tweed, &c. Bonne Bay has a good har- boiu-, hut of difficult entrance. Ingorna- ehoix Bay contains three harbours, the chief of which is Port Saunders, a spacious inlet, so land-locked, that 90 or 100 vessels may lie perfectly secure from every wind ; yet, OAving to the ahsence of cod, it is unin- habited. To the north, round Point Riche, is St. John's Bay, which receives the waters of Castor river. Beyond Point Ferollc, the northern houndary of St. John's Bay, are a few inconsiderable inlets along the straits of Bellcisle, which separate Newfoundland from the adjoining coast of Labrador, and are in length about .'iO miles by 12 broad. Cape Norman, 20 leagues beyond Point I I it BAYS OF NOTRE DAME, BONA VISTA, TRINITY, AND CONCEPTION. 311 Ferrole, is the N.W. point of Newfound- land, and has on its E. side a large bay, called Pistolet Bay, bounded by Burnt Cape. Belleisle North, an island at the head of the strait, has an excellent cod fishery, claimed by the French. We next come to Quirpon Island and harbour, the northern point of Newfoundland, in 51° 39' 45" N. lat., and 55° 27' 50" W. long. ; thence to Griquet Bay and St. Anthony's Harbour. Hare Bay is a deep gulf, the bottom of which intersects the island for two-thirds of its breadth at this point, bi'auching off into innumerable bays and coves, sheltered by lofty hills. From this harbour to White Bay, and thence to Cape St. John, the coast is indented at short distances by commo- dious and muca-frequented harbours. Pacquet Harbour has an excellent fishery. After passing Cape St. John, the limit of the French claim, we enter the bay of Notre Dame, whose shores are broken by innu- merable smaller inlets. Nipper Harbour is well inhabited in summer; but, in winter, the people either go to St. John's, or retire to the woods. In Hall's Bay some trappers and hunters live, who cross to the GulJf of St. Lawrence in their hunting excursions. Tlio Bay of Exploits, which is of great extent, contains a number of isliinds, and several settlements, especially on Twillingate and Fogo islands. A large river of the same name falls into it, abounding in salmon, and flowing from Red Indian Lake, a course of about sixty miles, much broken by rapids Gander Bay on Hamilton Sound has some thriiing fishing establishments. From Cape St. John to Cape Frcels the whole coast pre- sents a continuation of ledges, shallows, islands, rocks, and winding bays, which afford excellent fishing grounds. To the south of Cape Freels is the Island of Greenspond, which is situated at the north- eastern extremity of Bonavista Bay, and has some extensive mercantile establishments. This noble bay is diversified by numerous islands, and contains many safe havens. It has several good fishing stations, the chief jilace being Bonavista at its eastern ex- tremity. The next harbour is that of Catalina, where Jacques Cartier landed. It is situated in 48° 42' N. lat., 52° 59' 20" W. long., and stands almost at the head of the small peninsula between the great bays of Bonavista and Trinity. Trinity Bay has many scttliincnts and harbours, the most important are those of Trinity town and harbour, besides which there are those of Bonaventure, Ireland's Eye, Random Sound, Islands and Bay of Bulls, Tickle Harbour (a word often used in the Newfoundland charts, signifying a small safe harbour), Dildo Harbour, Heart's Delight, Heart's Desire, Heart's Content, New Perlican and Old Perlican Harbour, formerly a place of some note, which having passed we arrive at Break-heart Point, near which on the south- east is an insulated rock called Baccalao, said to have been first seen by Cabot in 1497, and called by him Prima Vista. The nu- merous birds on this island are called by its name. In a former work I stated them to be preserved by the governor's proclamation, because their cries being heard far at sea served as a warning to mariners during the frequent fogs; but Sir R. Bonnycastle, to whose authority I very willingly defer, says that I have been misinformed, the reason for their preservation being because they are sea marks for the banks and coast. To the south-east of the island the deep and spa- cious inlet of Conception Bay stretches into the land for a considerable distance, being about 50 miles long and 20 broad. The west shore is the best cultivated portion of Newfoundland, and the numerous, neat- looking villages render it an English -look iu'^ coast. There are several towns of rising importance. Carbonier, or Collier's Har- bour is one of the chief, and is famous for' the spirited defences made by its inhabitants against the French. The harbour, though spacious, is not considered at all seasons secure; there are several settlements, such as Brigus, Port de Grave, Bay of Roberts, Harbour Main, Spaniard's Bay ; in fact tho whole shore from Point de Grates to Holy- rood, a considerable station at the bottom of the bay, is studded with villages placed in the deep inlets separated by lofty perpendicular rocks, which run out into the sea for two or three leagues, though they are not a mile in breadth. The scenery on this part of the coast is majestic and wild. Near Port de Grave there is a remarkable basin hollowed out in the cliffs i)y the action of frost, or the more certain operation of time, in decaying the slate clay, of which the rocks are composed. First a circle is entered, 20 feet wide by 20 high : and be- yond is the basin itself, which is about 300 feet in circumference, and surrounded by perpendicular rocks 130 feet in height, witli a border of dwarf spruce a'; top. At one corner a little exit, among broken masses of rock, carries off the superttuous water ; the I lil IS m 812 STRAIT OP BELLEISLE, AND COAST OF LABRADOR. vitn any degree of certainty. It would be pru- dent, therefore, on the approach of a dark or foggy night, to secure a safe anchorage, if possible; and MOUNTAINS AND HILLS— NEWFOUNDLAND. 813 even if a vessel bound to thp gulfi and running with an eesterly wind, should find nu port tit for that p'lrjiose, I would advise her stnnding over to the Newfoundland siA of the strait, .vhere the soundings are not so deep, and tY 'ceberijs not so prevalent, and then either lying to until daylight, or ancliurnp in the stream." Af'^untains and Hilh. -On the gulf shore of New foundland, distinct ranges of moun- ta ns extend from Cape Ray, where they coinnicrice with three sugar-loaf hills, and then ffoceed continuously in a N.E. and W. direction. These ranges, says Sir R. Bonnycastle, stretch very far up the west coast, and with occasional lofty ofF-shoots which reach the sea, are usually so distant, from it as to leave a belt of comparatively level country, of consLlerable width, through which the small river drainage pass'^s. The elevations have a steep face tow;'' 'a the N.W., and are rather flat and regular at the summit. One conspicuous hill bears true 1\.E. from St. George's harbour, distant 20 miles in a straight line. The " Blow-me- down hills," on the south side of the Hum- ber river, have their least elevation at 800 Icet. Beyond the coast ranges to the eastward and northward the country is covered with rivers and lakes, of great ex- tent, and is of course well drained by them iu a vast area, reaching almost to the /Atlan- tic cliffs on the east coast. In Avalon district or province, there arc two ranges of hills, one from the back of Renews to Holyrood, in Conception Bay, ex- tending for 20 miles in length, not lofty, but with prccipitious and rugged outlines, the heights or hummocks called tbo "Bu+tei pots" at either end are about 1,000 feet, a id there are other eminences of nearly cqi ; I altitude in other parts of the range. The other ridge passes from Cape Dog, in St. Mary's Bay, to near Chapel Arm in Trinity Bay ; it is less broken and rugged than the former mentioned, has a more continuous outline, and its highest elevations of 1200 to 1,.')00 feet, are for the most part rount^cd or flat topped. The Sawyer's Hills (so calleu from their outline), south of Placcutia Br , is a subordinate ridge, as is also some hi^;h rough land forming the isthmus connecting Avalon with the main part of the island, and the elevations about St. John's, viz. Signal HiU 520 feci;. South-side Hill 700 fee^ and Branscombe Hill 870 feet above the sea. A mountainous country in miniature (none of the hills exceeding 1,000 feet), extends along the west shores of Plaecntia Bay and the adjacent islands, from Chapeau VOL. I. Rouge to Piper's Note. This range of lofty, broken, and precipitous land, runs along the west side of Trinity Bay to Trinity harbour, and thence crosses into Bonavista Bay about Keel's Head. Mr. Jukes states that it has an irregular width of several miles, occu- pies the east half of the peninsula between Fortune and Placentia bays, and forms a fine peaked and serrated mass of hills some miles west of Random Sound in Trinity Bay, which stretches also to the neighbour- hood of Goose Bay in Bonavista Bay. One isolated peak upwards of 1,000 feet above the sea, named Sainter's Hill, or Centre Hill, or Powdcrhorn Hill, overlooks nearly the whole of the Bays of Placentia and Trinity, as well as some of the high grounds about Conception, Bonavista, and Fortune Bays. The west side of Bonavista Bay from Clode Sound, northwards, is low, but as far as Mr. Jukes could judge of the interior, the country towards the N.W. consists of regu- larly undulating ridges, running generally N.N.E. and S.S.W., never rising more than 300 or 400 feet, and covered with dense wood. The "Blue HiU8"'run about N.N.E, and S.S.W., in a line with the promontory be- tween Gander Bay and Dildo Run, and are not supposed to exceed 1,000 feet in height. Another range of 1,000 to 1,500 feet in ele- •,ation, are seen from the mouth of the river of Exploits, closing the view up the valley of the lower part of the river : they are flat- topped with precipitous sides, which gives them a square appearance. A ridge of high land runs from them towards the S.S.W. The southern portion of Newfoundland has very lofty cliffs, and the high land con- tiguous the sea, excludes all view of the inte- rior from the sea. The country is said to he grooved in every direction by small valleys and ravines, covered with rouTid hummocky knobs and hills, with rocky and precipitous sides. The summits of the hills and ridges and other elevated and exposed tracts termed " barrens " are covered with a thin and scrubby vegetation, and are somewhat simi- lar in appearance to the moorlands of York- shire; they are frequently devoid of vegetable soil, and consist of bare patches of gravel boulders, and crumbling fragments of rocks. In the hollows of these barrens, as in other situations, the dwarf jtmipers, called in New- foundland " tucking bushes," grow about breast high, >vith strong branches at right angles to the stem, and stiffly interlacing, their flat tops are as level as if they had 2s # I *i i \ ii 311 LAKK8 Oil I'ONDS— N'EWFOUNULAND. bucn rc^larl . .ippcd. They nrc so stiH' that it id almost possihlt; to walk on t!ie siimmits of a dwaii" juniper tract, but to penetrate far through the buslies is imprac- ticable ; and this is one of the obstacles to- wards the exploration of the interior. Lakes. — Newfoundhuid is covered with lakes and lakelets (called pomls). They are found all over the face of the country, not only in the valleys, but on the hif;lier lands, and even in the hollows of the summits of the ridges, and on the very tops of the liills. They vary in size, from pools of 50 yards in diameter, to lakes of 30 miles lon^ by 5 broad. From the top of the N.E. moun- tains in Avalon, 07 ponds were counted, some of them 2 or 3 miles across ; none less than 100 yards, and none more than 10 miles from the base of the hill. The principal arc tiic Grand i'oud, lied In- dian, Gander I'oud, Georf^o the Fourth's, JamesoHjWilmot, and Uathurst lakes. There is also a large unexplored lake on the E. part of the island, near Bonavista Bay. Grand Pond is 50 to (50 miles long, five Tr.iles broad at the widest part, viz., to the N.E., and has, at its western extremity, an islo' d ,V0 miles lon^ by 4 or 5 wide, which o:i,u. HiiM-uunding country, at the S.W. end, but iH tjv^er io the N.E. The Indians say, that by iiic">us of a chain of ponds, they can navigate to the Great Lake from St. George's hai'bour. Red Indian Lake is said by the Indians to be about 30 miles due E. from Grand Pond, and is about 30 miles long by 5 to 6 broad. Victoria Lake is about the same length as the precedmg, but not so wide. This lake has a water communication with Bathurst, Wilmot, and George the Fourth lakes; but we know too little of theiv extent, or of the surrounding country, to say more on the subject. Geolooy. — A considerable part of the coast line f)f Newfoundland was examined by Mr. J. B. Jukes, as geological surveyor to the local government in 183!>-10. The a(iueous or stratified rocks consist of the fol- lowing formations : — ' or igneous rocks con'»ist I',!i' uf trap, gn'(>nstone, serpcii- .ulieno, porphyry, sienite, and Formations. Coal Magnesian limcstoao. fiubdivisions. / • Uppir portion. ■ I ' Lowor or red ditto. ii.,„„. .!„.„<•„ ~ .■ » / ■ BoUcislo slialo und gritstone. Upper 8latc formation | b Variegated slates. Lower slate ditto i Quciss and mica slate. ' Signal hill sand.stones. St. John's slate. The uustrn of various ki' tine, hyper granite. The upper part of the coal formation con- sists principally of dark shales, with Inowu and yellow sandstones or gritstones in thin beds. The lower part is characterized i)y beds of red sandstone, red and green marls, and gypsum. Tiic two parts pass l)y insen- sible gradations into each other. Yellow, brown, and whitish Hags and saiul stones, dark blue clay, and an occivsional bed of black shale occur throughout the formation. Some of the lighter coloured sandstoiiis contain carbonate of lime and the red and green marl, and large masses of gypsum, in thick beds. The total thickness of the coal formation is considerable, the portion ex- amined by Mr. Jukes had a depth of 1,000 to 1,500 feet. The maf/ncsian limcstomr seen, was gtnierally of a yellow colour, about 50 feet thick, in beds of two to three feet each, frequently splitting iin,o flags. One bed of carbonate of lime was found of a grey colour, two feet thick, with a band of brown chert. The magnesian limestone seen by Mr. Jukes had generally a yellowcolour,but rudely spheroidal concentric stripes of pink fre- quently oceiu'red. These, whichever direction the rock was split, produced markings similar to those seen in fortification agate, but on a much larger scale, being often two or three fet^t across. The tipper slate formation is sujiposed to be below the coal formation in the series. The superior portion consists of dark mica- ceous shale, splitting into thin lamina;, with interstratified beds of a very fine-grained grey gritstone', which increase in inimbcr, thickness, and coarseness of grain Avith the increasing depth, until the shale disappears altogether. The thickness of the two por- tions seen was several hundred feet. T/ie tower slate scries is deemed by j\Ir. Jukes to belong to an older formation, and to be com- posed of two groups, viz., a mass of red and grey sandstone, which, at the Signal hill entrance of St. John's harbour, has a thick- ness of 800 feet, and the St. John's slate, in which beds of red, green, and greystone alternate near the junction of the sandstone, with the slate rocks forming the transition beds between the two. The thickness oi' this formation is estimated at 2,000 to 3,000 feet or more. The change of the slate is frequently parallel to the line of strati- fication, and produces excellent roofing slate. Veins of white quartz and masses » 11 OKOLOOY OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 31. J 'til of j)<)rj)li\ry are found iissociated witli the slati's. The Mira thilc and (liicisn, and also the iy;neous roc^ks, ch) not dillerfroin those UHiially found in otlicr parts of tlic ^lohc ; the mica and the gneiss, liowevcr, alternate witli uiul pass into each other; excepting some very indistinct vcgetahle impressions in the roal formation, no organic remains have yet hciii found in any rock in N( vfonndl.- Nearly the whole peninsida of Av; composed of the lower ulufc formation. conntry W. and N.W, of Avalon i.-- ■< posed chiefly of variegated slate, coarse stone, and conglomerate. The region f)f Fortune Hay, and E. of Cape 11; y, con- sists of primitive rocks, chiefly granite ; also gneiss, sicnitc (porphyry and hasalt), quartz, mica slate, clay slate, and turpentine. The W. coast from St. George's Bay to the north- ward ecmtains, according to Sir R. Bonny- castle, the carboniferous rocks. Mr. Jukes says that mica slate, gneiss, and their asso- ciated rocks, with occasional patches of pri- mary limestone, extend along the whole of the W. side of Newfoundland, and from the 1 1 umber river he supposes they form an un- broken ridge to Cape Quir|)on, the extreme northern point of the island. On the N, side of St. George's Bay magnesinn limestone di'/s at a slight angle to the N.N.W. At (ii'and Pond the elitt's are of gneiss and miea slate. Inthc N.E. corner an exposed section was found to'' contain (1) sand and boulders, 1 feet ; (2) softish grey and ycllomsh sand- stone, 5 feet ; (3) ditto ditto shaly, 1 foot ; (1) coal, some jiart like cannel coal, 6 inclics ; (5) yellow church, 2 inches; (G) grey bind, 2 feet. All these beds dipped at an angle of 30° to the S.E. The country bctwecu Port aux Ports and the Driy of Islands is probably composed of igneous rocks: it is lofty and unbroken. A calcai'cous forma- tion stretches across the mouth of the Hum- bcr river, in hills of 100 to 500 feet high. About three miles up the river arc lofty [jrceipiees of pure white marble, crowned and surrounded by thick woods, which closing in upon the rapids, produce most picturesque scenery. Mr. Jukes says that blocks of this pure marble of any required size may be procured. Mr. Cormaek, when crossing the island from Ilaudom Sound to St. George's Bay, mentions having seen abundance of serpentine E. of Jameson's lake ; N. of the Bay of Despair, granite, sienite, quartz, gneiss, fine clay slate, alum slate, and indi- cations of coal and iron. From the hills at the back of St. George's H.iy, to nearly the centre of the island, he mentions no other rock than granite. Tii the neighbourhood of Canada Hay on the W. side of White May the geological surveyor was informed that limestone exists in abundance, and a pccimen brouglit to St. John's was identical iJi mincralogical character with the white marble of the Humber. 'I lie "strike" throughout the island rarely IPS from a true N.N. E. and S. S.W. hence all the otlicr prominent fea- the country run in the same dircc- ■t only as regards the ranges of hills, ^o the principal lakes, deep bays, and \aU. s, lie in the same line of bearing. The Hay of Islands is the only important excep- tion to this rule. The " strike " and cleav- age of the roek.s arc not abso!ut(!ly depen- dent on the strike and dip of the beds ; the " strike " of the cleavage is not invariably parallel to the strike of the beds; but the cleavage is much more constant as regards its strike and dip in relation to the points of the compa.ss than it is in relation to the strike and dip of the beds, or than those latter are to the horizon and points of the compass. As regards the relative age of the igneous rocks, Mr. Jukes supposes that the granites are generally newer than the mica slate, and the gneiss whieii repose upon them. The coal formation acems to be contemporaneous with that of W^estern Europe, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New Brunswick, and the most modern group of stratified rocks in Newfoundland ; he adds, " the mass of the granites and other unstratificd rocks arc more recent than the lower slate formation ; some of them at least more recent than the upper slate formation, and they may be more modern even than the coal formation." Lieutenant-colonel Sir K. Bonnycastle, al- ludes to the evident volcanic action among the primary sandstones and conglomerates, and other indications of the same power which has been exhibited in Canada, and generally British America. Granite boulders are plentiful, and frequently of large size, and found on the tops of hills 400 to 500 feet, composed of gritstone, slate, or sienite, 20 or 30 miles from where any granite is to be found. Over the greater part of the island, drifted materials to the depth of several feet are to be met with. At the river Exploits, was found a fine unctuous clay, perfectly plastic, 15 or 20 feet thick, and lying iu thin layers, usually of a n ■) ' ill Ml IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /y £/ Z:^ r^. ^ <° 1.0 I.I 1.25 lit Ki |2.2 2.0 S Ui ml 1.8 U IIIIII.6 6" PiiOtographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 816 MINERALOGY AND SOIL OP NEWFOUNDLATJD. slate colour, with a reddish band here and there, but no sand. Above the clay rests a bed of fine sand two or thre feet thick. It is evident from the foregoing, that abundance of building and of roofing materials, of lime- stone and of marble are obtainable in New- foundland. The prevailing rock on the Labrador coast, so far as we know, is gneiss. On, this at Anse le Loup, a bed of old red sandstone is super-ground, about 200 feet thick, and ex- tending above half a mile inland. Here also, as on every other part of the coast of Labra- dor visited, the appearance of the cliffs, and of the land near them, and the rolled masses, inland, which have evidently been ex- posed to the action of the sea, seem to prove that it has considerably receded. The sand- stone is generally red and white, in alter- nate stripes, and presents a remarkable mural front to the sea. Near the surface it was strongly marked with iron. The whole of the rock was composed of white quartz and yellow felspar; the grains being gene- rally as fine as oatmeal, though occasionally coarser, even to the extent of half an inch in diameter. Both coarse and fine, bear marks of being a mechanical deposit, and are, with few exceptions, perfectly distinct, without the least appearance of amalgama- tion. Over the red sandstone was a thin stratum of red compact felspar, containing vegetable impressions, and also horizontal. Above this were varieties of secondary lime- stone, arranged in parallel strata several feet thick, and full of shells. Detached masses of primitive limestone were also found; and a few miles from the shore the secondary formations generally disappeared, leaving gneiss and mica slate on the surface. MiNKBALOQY. — Cottl. There are beds of this valuable mineral on the south side of St. George's Bay, and in the coimties north of the Great Pond ; there are probably other beds on the west coast. The Newfoundland coal field is evidently a continuation of the I coal strata in Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, New Brunswick, and Gaspe. Mr. Jukes says, that the seams he saw were of no great thickness, but that more important ones will probably be found. At eight miles from the Gulf shore a bed of coal, known to the Mic-mac Indians, was seen of three feet in I thickness and of excellent quality. The I guides said that equally valuable beds, in a ; similar parallel were to be found up the j Codray river. The extent of the coal field ii estimated at 25 miles long by 10 broad. As population increases in the island this discovery will be found of great value, and tend much to its improvement. Oyptum comes out in abundance on the sea cliffs at Codray harbour, and the S. side of St. George's Bay. Beds of limestone of inferior quality are found in Mortier Bay, and Chapel Cove in Holyrood, and in Con- ception Bay. Copper. — A small vein of sulphuret and green carbonate exist in the Signal Hill sandstone of Shoal Bay, and was worked to some extent in the middle of the last cen- tury. Lead. — Crystals of galena were seen in the sienite on the west side of the harbour of Great St. Lawrence. There is said to be an iron mine on the northern side of Belle-isle, and another at Harbour Grace. There is also a quantity of the mineral called marcasitc, copperas stone, and horse gold, iron pyrites (which some of the aai-rcr discoverers mistook for gold), found in the vicinity of Catalina harbour. Salt springs are reported near the W. coast. Soils. — ^The thick coatiag of moss, which Mr. Jukes calls the " curse of the country," prevents the nature of the soil being gene- rally known : where this moss has been cleared away, as at the south side of St. George's bay, the excellence of the earth has been manifested. The soft sandstones and rich marls which compose the coal for- mation, generally form very fertile districts. The timber, natural grass, and clover found in various places, indicate a productive soil. There are valuable alluviums in the ne^h- bourhood of the rivers and lakes. The stunted forests un the east and south shores mark a poor country ; but the large forests in the interior and to the westward, show that there is abundant room for successful agriculture, and that Newfoundland could well supply itself with vegetable and animal food. On the settled parts of the cast coast there is none of the rich black soil caused by accumulating vegetable decompositiou. Around St. John's the soil is shallow, poor, and hungry, formed of decomposed sand- stone and slate rocks, with a loose and fria' !e mixture of silicious and aluminous matters. It requires constant manuring of fish, sea- weed, mud, and ashes, to produce crops. There is much of a whitish-gray clay about St. John's ; passing through the usual gra- dations to pipe-clay, unless largely mixed with lime, it is too purely aluminous to be FOGS OP THE GULF OP ST. LAWRENCE. 817 serviceable. Wherever the variegated slate, or the igneous rocks, are found, the land is better, the grasses more luxuriant, the forest-trees finer, and the potato crops are more certain. The belt of a few miles along the east coast, consisting of decayed san^tone coloured by iron, with a saline atmosphere, and exposed to almost constant tempestuous weather, affords no criterion of the fertility of other porta of the island. Climate and Diseases. — The climate of Newfoundland is different in the northern and southern districts, and the west coast is more sheltered and therefore milder than the east coast. The weather, although severe, is less fierce than that of Lower or Eastern Canada. The summer is shorter than that of Canada, the autumn less certain, and the winter a series of storms of wind, rain, and snow. Snow does not lie long on the ground, and the frost is less intense than in Western Canada. Winter lasts from the be- ginning of December until the middle of April. January and February are the coldest months. Severe gales of wind extend along the coast, the coldest from the N.W. The land or westerly winds are naturally drier than the easterly winds, which sweep over the Atlantic for three-fourths of the year, and cause considerable evaporation from the ocean over the banks. In Newfoundland, as in Canada, the land or N.W. wind in win- ter is bitterly cold ; in summer it is pleasantly warm. The sea, or north-easterly wind, is cold both in sixmmer and winter; the south- easterly, warm. During a long winter, the brilliancy of the aurora boreuis, and the splendid lustre of the moon and stars give peculiar beauty to the atmosphere. The most remarkable feature connected with New- foundland is the fogs ou its banks and nieighbouring shores. The fogs of the Gulf of St. Lawrence are attributed to the coldness of the Gulf waters, which is believed to be constant a few feet below the surface as well as at great depths ; every gale of wind brings this cold water to the surface, by which the temperature of the air is reduced below the dew point, at which suspended vapours are precipated and become visible. Those on the Banks of Newfoimd land ere most probably caused by the cold deep water flowing from the Pole to the Equator, being there forced to the surface in consequence of the interruption given by the banks to its southward course. The surface water on the Great Bank is many degrees colder than that of the neighbouring sea. and much less than that of the Gulf stream, which is within a short distance. Mr. Jukes describes the water in Trinity Bay as " bitterly cold," even in the middle of a warm July, and so singularly clear that when the surface was still, the echini, shell- fish, and cretinise clinging to the rocks, crabs and lobsters crawling on the bottom, fish, medussB, and myriads of sea crea- tures floating in its depths, were as clearly visible to a depth of SO or 40 feet, as in the air itself. The fogs on the banks of Newfoundland, and even in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are sometimes so dense, that in fine, almost calm weather, with the sun shining over head, two vessels pass each other unseen, while the voices of persons talking can be heard from either ship. The fog appears to lie on the sur- face of the water, for when near land, an ob- server from the mast-head may descry it quite distinctly, while on deck no object within a few yards distance is visible. The fogs arc not generally attended with nun, but the decks are onen kept wet, and ihe higher masts and rigging collect the condensed moisture of the atmosphere in large drops. Pogs do not prevail at all seasons; in May and the beginning of June they are most prevalent. The annual register of fogs for 1841, shews: January, one day and a half; February and March, none; April, one; May, three ; June, two ; July, one; August, one; September, four; October, one; No- vember, two; December, one. Total, 17 \ days. Of light fogs or mists there were in 1841, 19i days: shewing, altogether, 37 days of foggy weather throughout the jear. The E. and S. shore of Nc^vfoundland are more subject to fogs than the W. coast. In summer, an easterly wind brings fog; W. and S.W. winds, rain. The land or W. winds are drier. In the early part of summer, when the waters have acquired a temperature ap- proaching that of the air, a peculiar mirage IS observable off Newfoundland and in the Gulf of St. Lawrc u i ; during its early ex- istence the line of trees with which the hills are covered, seem raised much above the level of the rest, resembling a lofty hedge row; this, however, is soon lost, as all the trees apparently attain the same height, giving the appearance of an immense table, stretching (torn hill to hill ; the shores in the mean time assume the semblance of a great wall, and the island seems girt with a similar inclosure, or botmdcd with precipices all I i m »18 HEALTH OF THE TROOPS IN NEWFOUNDLAND. round ; their tops also look flat like tables, and the small island often a^umes a flower- pot shape. Dr. Kelly observed one instance in the river St. Lawrence, where the islands of Bic and Bicquctte appeared to join — their wooded tops to meet, leaving an arsh, beneath which the waters seemed to flow. On the beach the spray seems to rise in foam to the tops of these imaginary clifls, while the houses, &c., attain a similar height. Ships, according to their distance, present different elevations, sometimes rising to twice their real height, at others the masts reach only a few feet from the deck; some- times the upper sails seem double — a second set being seen at a considerable height above the flrst — ^while again a second vessel's hull, sails and all, is seen above the first ; but in no instance is inversion observed, and the object thus refracted is always visible to the naked eye. The fogs do not appear to be injurious to health. The longevity of the inhabitants is indeed the best proof of the salubrity of Ncwfounland ; in no country is old age attended with greater bodily vigour and mental animation. There are instances of fishermen 100 years of age being actively employed in the arauous dutiesof their calling. In 1829, Martin Oalteu was living at Marasheen island, Placentia Bay: he was then more than 100 years old, in excellent health, and caught with his brother that year nine quintals of cod fish. Seventy years previous he piloted Captain Cook into Placentia Bay. In the same place lived Nancy Zibeau, mother of four living genera- tions. A Mrs. Tait died there m 1819, aged 126 years: she was with her third husband at the siege of Quebec by General Wolfe. Colonel Bonnycastle stated in 1842 that a woman died recently at Torbay, near St. Johns, aged 125 years, and before her death she sent for a doctor to see what was the matter with her poor child, who was sick, the said child being then 90 years of age. The reports furnished to the " Horse Guards" and "Army Medical Board," con- firm this view of the salubrity of the island. This official return states, that " The climate of the nouthom portion of New- foundland i« similar to that of Nova Scotia, except (hat the aummers are colder, of shorter duration, and liable to more sudden vicissitudes, owing to the melting of the icebergs on the coast, which exerts considerable influence on the temperature ; the island hua also been long noted for the frequent and dense fogs which prevail along its banks, and oiten con- tinue during a great part of the summer. None of these agencies, however, seem to operate prejudicially on the health of the inhabitants, among whom, the mortality is on a lower scale than in any portion of the American continent " According to the population returns, the deaths are only 1 in 76 of the population — an exceedingly low ratio indeed, especially when it is considered that upwards of 20,000 are children under 10 years of age. As the inhabitants are scattered over a great extent of coast, several of the deaths may possibly have been omitted i but, even making all due allow- ance for that source of error, their rapid increase, without any material aid from immigration, famishes sufficient proof that the climate, however unpleasant to the fcehngs, is highly favourable to tlie constitution. " Had we drawn our conclusions in re^pud to the climate, however, firom the mortality among the troops at this station, we shou^ have been led to very different conclusions. Unfortunately, we cannot extend our observations on this subject to an earlier date than 1825, because, prior to tliat period, the garrison having principally^ consisted of two com- panies of one of the regiments at Halifax, their retiums were frequently included With those of that station. Since 1825, however, a corps has been formed for service in this colony, consisting of three companies of veterans, who, aldiough for the most part_ aged or disabled, have been reported as fit for garrison duty. These, with a company of a^llery, nave generally constituted the whole force, among whom the sickness and mortality has been as M- lows : — Yean. Newfoundland Veteran ComtNuiiea. Boyal Artillery. Average Strength Deaths. Mean Sick. Average Strength Deaths. Mean Sick. 182d . 321 18 20 61 4 ■4 1826 . 202 7 17 56 1 1-2 1827 . 310 8 18 62 2- 1828 . 336 14 2C I 2 3-6 1829 . 275 16 IS » 1 2- 1830 . 258 15 It J 3 1- 1831 . 239 16 16 65 3 2- 1832 . 205 8 "A 57 1 3- 1833 . 189 7 10 65 • • 1-3 1834 . 241 3 12 60 1 16 1835 . 255 11 12 66 1 2- 1836 . •ii-S 10 14 71 ... 2-7 Total . 3,189 132 191 762 17 22-8 Ratio pe ofSto rlOOOl jngth / 41- 60- ... 22- 30- "From this table it appears that the mortality among the veterans has been upwards of 41 per 1,000 annually, on the average of the last 12 years, while that of the artillery, has l>een only 22 per 1,000 during the same period. The high ratio among the former may in part be accounted for by their advanced age, nearly one half being between 33 and 40, and Uie other half above that period of life i but it appears still more attributable to the immediate effects of intemperance, as the records of that corps furnish most startling evidence of the general prevalence and destructive consequence of this vice. "In a nominal roll, transmitted to the medical department, of those who died between 1825 and 1832 in the veteran companies, we find the following causes of death re<.orded : — ths. Mean Sick. i •4 . 1-2 , 2- ! 3-6 , 2- 1 !• 1 2- . 3- . 1-3 1-6 2- • 2-7 r 22-8 !• 30- AVEllAGE TEMPEIIATUIIE IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 319 Total death* fVom 182o to 1832 inclusiTe ' . Whereof- Died by ■uflbcation from drinking , . 10 n delirium trcmcnn . .13 „ apoplexy, principally from intoxi- 'I ]> cation / '" Found dead, supposed fVum same cause . 2 Drowned 1 Cuntusion . . , , . , 1 100 Died by disease By Feren „ Diseases of the Lungs „ Diseases of the Liror .' Fob. Cont. Com. „ Typhus . .Pyrexia . Pneumonia Phthisis . Catorrhus 'Asthma , /Hepatitis . I Icterus Diseases of the Sto- /Oiutritis . mach and Bowels . (.Diarrhoea . , Dropsy . Ascites 1 1 1 3 16 17 44 56, vis.— 37 Total . 66 " Thus little more than one-half of the mortality among the veterans has been in any way attributable to natural onuses, and as large a proportion might have occurred among persons at the same period of life, even in this country. The returns from this station are not sufficiently complete to admit of our detailing the diseases of the artillery with similar minuteness, nor even to carry the investigation rela- tive to the veterans beyond 1832; but, as so large a proportion of the deaths has been traced to intem- perance, ' many of the admissions into hospital are likely to have been attributable to the same cause ; consequently, even if obtained, these returns, when subject to so manifest source of error, could have afforded no accurate data for determin- >g the influ- ence of this climate on the constitution ol our troops. " The fate of so large a proportion of this garrison, by their own imprudence in the use of spirituous liquors, affords a striking illustration of the pro- gressive effect and ultimate consequence of long- continued habits of intemperance. In Nova Scotia, for instance, we find, that tnough this vice prevails to a great extent among the troops, the mortality is as low as can be expected in any climate, even among persons of abstemious habits. But there the troops are, for the most part, men in the prime of lire, whose excesses produce little sickness or mortality, while they have the advantage of youth on their side ; but they are silently laying the seeds of disease in their constitution, and inducing premature old age and disability, so that by the time they attain the same advanced period of liie as the veterans, a repe- tition of excesses, which might formerly have been indulged in with comparative impunity, hurries them to an untimely grave. " In regiments of the line, the number of men at an advanced period of life being but small, the pre- mature deaths caused by drunkenness are lost in the mass, and add little to the general mortality. It is only when a corns is composed of men advanced in vears that the ultimate consequences of this vice can be traced to their full extent, or so strikingly mani- fested as in the present instance." • The highest and lowest of the thermo- meter and barometer in 1841, registered by Sir R. Bonnycastle, was : — Months. January February March April May . June . July . August September October November December Thermometer. Highest Lowest. 440 3-0 42-6 4-6 47-0 OS 66fi 14-3 620 21-8 740 298 70-8 34-8 78-3 3ei-S 75-3 33:5 68-3 240 «70 16-5 44-5 80 Barometer. Highest. Lowest, 30-3 30-2 30-3 30-2 30-2 30-1 301 30-2 30-2 30-3 30-2 30-4 28-7 28'6 28-8 28-9 291 29-2 20-3 29-3 29-3 292 28-9 28-9 On the 15th February, 1841, during a severe storm from W.S.W., the thermometer fell fipom 40 to 19, and the barometer from 29-8 to 28-5. The annual average of the thermometer and barometer for six years was as follows : — Months. Ther. Bar. Months. Thcr. Bar. January . 22-7 29-8 July . . 87-4 29-7 February 42-6 29'6 August . 88-3 298 March . 240 29-7 September 63-3 298 April. . May . . 33-8 29-6 October . 44-0 29-8 398 29-7 November 34-0 29(i June . . 49-8 29-7 December 260 29-6 The Newfoundland almanac for 1845 gives the following comparison of the baro- metrical and thermometerical averages in Newfoundland and England; the averages are the mean of observations for six years: — ' :' ■ Barometer. Thermometer. Months. Mean Height. Highest. Lowest. Mean Temp. Highest. Lowest. N. E. N. E. N. E. N. B. N. E. N. 15. January . 29'68 29-72 30-35 30-77 28-73 28-89 22-7 36-0 440 62-0 30 u-u February '29-62 30-06 30-24 30-82 28-69 29-17 19-75 880 42-67 53-0 4-67 21-0 March 29-74 29-84 30-34 30-77 28-82 28-87 240 43-9 47-0 660 0-3 £4-0 April 29-66 29-88 30-26 30-64 28-91 29-20 33-8 49-9 66-5 74-0 14-3 29-0 May ... 29-76 29-90 30-22 30-38 29-13 29-66 39-0 54-0 62-0 70-0 21-8 330 lane 29-77 3202 30-14 30-46 29-22 29-60 49-8 68-7 74-0 90-0 29-8 370 July . 29-79 29-87 30-18 30-30 29-37 29-39 67-4 610 79-8 76-0 34-8 4-2-0 August 29-83 29-89 30-21 30-26 29-35 29-36 68-3 61-6 78-3 82-0 38-5 410 September 29-83 29-93 3029 30-41 29-32 29-41 53-3 67-8 753 76-0 33-6 360 October . 20-89 29-77 ;«)-31 30-61 2928 29-74 44-0 489 68-3 68-0 24-0 27-0 November 29-67 •(9-77 30-27 30-27 28-90 2908 34-0 42-9 57-0 620 16-6 210 rjecember 29-66 2W-69 30-40 3032 28-03 ■29-12 26-10 39-3 4450 560 0-66 17-0 ■l ■ II 830 CHAPTER III. GOVERNMENT, REVENUE, POPULATION, RELIGION, EDUCATION, AND CRIME. SovKBNMKNT is administered under a consti- tution granted in 1832, and Hubsequently mo- dified in accordance with the responsible sys- tem which exists in the other North American colonies. The executive council consists of nine members, who also compose the legisla- tive council. The House of Assembly consists of fifteen representatives. St. John's returns three members, Conception Bay four, and the other distncts one each. The elective franchise was conferred in 1832 on the whole male population occupying dwelling-houses either as owners or tenants for one year. Judicature and Police. — The official report on this subject in 1848 is com- plete : — " The Supreme Court is coiutituted under the im- perial statute, 6 Geo. IV. c. 67, and the Royal Charter issued in pursuance of the statute. It is composed of a chief justice at a salary of £1,200 sterling, and two assistant judges, each at a salary of £700 sterling, secured by Act of the Legislature. The Court has jurisdiction throughout the whole govern- ment of Newfoundland and its dependencies, and on the seas and banks to which vessels resort for cann- ing on the fishery, and has all criminal and civil jun«- diction, as fullv and amply to all intents and purposes, as the Queens Bench, Common Pleas, Exchequer, and High Court of Chancery in England, and is also a Court of Oyer and Terminer and General Gaol Delivery. The Coutt nts onlv at St. John's, the capital of the island, at such tunes as the governor by his proclamation may appoint The terms rarely exceed two, one in spnng and one in autumn, for a period of about three or four weeks each. All civil actions, in which the matter in dispute exceeds forty shillings, are tried by jury. The practice on the com- mon law side is in general the same as that of the Court of Queen's Bench, modified by rules adapted to the circumstances of the colony. 1110 practice _ on the equity side is governed by a code of rules, subject to which modification, the practice of the English Court of Chancery prevails. In prosecutions for breaches of the laws relating to trade and revenue, the Supreme Court proceeds according to the rules and practice of the courts of Vice-Aamiralty. This Court idone, is also invested with the power of grant- ing probates of wills and letters of administration, and with the control of the persons and property of infants and lunatics. An appeal lies &om the Supreine Court to the Queen in Council, where the matter in dispute exceeds £600. The officers of the court are the chief clerk and registrar, at a salary, in lieu of fees, of £350 sterling, (lately reduced firom £600) who is also by virtue of m« office. Registrar of Deeds for the central district, appointeid by warrant under the Royal Sign Manual. Acrier, at a salary of £60 ster- ling, appointed by the chief justice for the time being, both salaries voted annually by the Assembly. " Circuit Courts. — The island is divided into three judicial districts, the central, northern, and southern, within which, respectively, there is a superior Court of Record, s^lea the Circuit Court, heldny tiie chief or one of the assistant judges of the Supreme Court This Court has the same jurisdiction, powers, and authority within the district as the Supreme Court throughout the whole island, save in cases of treason, and capital felonies, and in prosecutions for breach of the revenue laws. " The (^uit Court for the central district for dis- trict of St John's) sits at the town of St John s only. Its terms generally precede those of the Supreme Court in spring and autumn, and last for periods of about four weeks, and its practice is the same as that of the Supreme Court " The Circuit Court frr the northern circuit sits twice in the year at Harbor Grace for periods of about four weeks in spring and autumn ; and once f year durinf^ the months of September and October at the following places, viz.: — ^Twillingate, Fogo, Greens- pond, Bonavista, and Trinity, for periods of a week or 10 days at the respective places. " Tne Circuit Court for the southern district sits once in the year only, at the following places, during the months of September end October, viz., Harbor Briton, Burin, Placentia, St Mary's, and Ferryland. " The terms and places of nolding the Circuit Courts are annually fixed by the governor's proclama- tion. The practice of the noi^em and southern Circuit Courts is governed by a code of rules adapted to the state and circumstances of the outports. An appeal lies from the Circuit Courts to the Supreme Court in matters exceeding £60 sterling. Each of these Courts has a clerk, (who is also the Registrar of Deeds within the district) appointed by warrant and under the Royal Sign Mannai at a salary of £200, and fees amounting in the northern district to £160 or £180, and in the southern district to less than £60. " Courts of General and Quarter Sessions are also held at St John's and the principal outports, the sit- tings of which are regulated by the governor's pro- clamation. The lingluh Criminal Law being in force in the colony, these Courts and the maj^strates have (so far OS the law can be applied) jurisdiction and powers similar to those of the quarter sessions and justices of the peace in England. Trials, however, by jury, in crimmal cases, with occasional exceptions at St John's, always take place in the superior Cocits. llie courts of Session have also a summary jurisdiction in tiie recovery of debts for sums not ex- ceeding 40s. ; in disputes relating to the curing of fish to the amount or £6, and concerning the wages of seamen and fishermen, hiring of boats, and the supply of bait to an unlimited amount. These courts are presided over by the stipendiary magistrates, of whom there are three at St John's at salaries of £300 sterling each, two at Harbor Grace at salaries of £180 and £160, and one at each of the 13 other out- ports at salaries varying from £100 to £160; the total cost being £2,930 sterling, voted annually by the Assembly. Sheriffs. — There are three sherifls, one for each o> POPULATION BY DISTRICTS IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 321 die judicial districts, at salaries of £700 for the cen- tral, £300 for the northern, and £200 for the south- em district, secured by an Act of the Legislatur<;. The sherifls are appointed annually by the goTenor. " C3arki ofih» Peace. — There are 11 clerks of the peace, one at St John's at a salary of £300, one at Harbour Grace at a salary of £1S0, and one respec- tively at Bri^us, Ferrylana, Plaoentia, Burin, Harbor Briton, Trinity, Bonavista, Carbonear, and Twillin- gate, at salaries from £30 to £60 without fees. Their salaries, with the exception of that of the clerk of the peace for St John's are Toted annually hj the Assem- bly. The clerks of the peace are appomted by the governor. " OmUiAUt. — There are, at various places through- out the island, in all, 66 paid constables, at an annual stipend varying from £12 to £40, with the exception of the high constable at St John's, who has £80, and at a total cost of £1,394 sterling, voted annuallv by the Assembly. These are all the constables or the island, there oeing none who serve gratuitously. " Cfaoler*. — ^There are six gaolers, one at St John's at a salary of £100, one at Harbour Grace at £00, and one respectively at Ferryknd, Placentia, Burin, and Trinity, at £23 each (in lieu of fees), voted annually by the Assembly. 'There being no local rates or assessments in the different districts, the whole ex- pense of the administration of justice, support of the poor, and for other public services and works, is de irayed out of the puolic revenue." Population. — Inconsequence of the exten- sive fisheries carried on along its coasts, the population of Newfoundland necessarily fluc- tuates. Until recently there has been no accurate census. In 1 785, the resident popu- lation was estimated at 10,224; in 1806, at* 26,505. Since 1822, as follows :— Tears. Main. Femalca. Tatsl. Haniages. Blrtlu. Deaths. In 1822 . „ 1827 . "l83«. „184«. 31,746 34,617 41,467 52,274 20,401 23,t71 32,238 44,232 62,li57 ,58,088 73,705 96,506 516 443 1,675 1,879 736 696 According to a census taken in 1825, of classes, there were of masters, 6,131 ; mis- tresses, 6,211; menservants,ll,537; women- servants, 4,210; children under 15 years, 20,204. The number of French on the coast was then stated to be 12,000. The census of 1 836 contains the following : — Districts. St John's . . Conception Bay Trinity Bay . Bonavista Bay . . Fogo and Twillingate Ferryland Placenda and St Mary's Burin . Fortune Bay . Totals. No, of Dwelling- houses. 2,781 3,521 009 801 703 679 712 461 404 11,071 Family. Males. Under 14 yean. 3,718 4,971 1,046 1,182 1,124 882 1,024 639 680 10,766 14 to 60 yea^. 4,984 0,289 1,060 1,149 1,009 1,223 853 664 600 17,386 Upwards of 60 years. 166 202 108 98 87 77 68 30 69 910 Females. Under 14 years. 3,611 4,402 1,372 1,009 1,101 768 989 644 623 14,609 14 to 60 years. 4,123 4,842 1,320 1,010 872 878 920 600 604 15,197 Upwarda of 60 years. 201 261 110 71 09 03 49 32 28 864 Total Ponu- lation. 18,026 23,210 6,803 0,183 4,886 6,860 4,701 3,140 3,129 75,843 The latest census of Newfoundland, dated 1845, gives the following results : — Censos of 1846. St John's Conception Bay. . . . Trinity Bonavista Fogo Ferryland Placentia and St Mary's Burin Fortune Bay . . Total in 1840 . . Males. 13,177 14,899 4,687 3,943 3,771 2,623 3,078 2,840 3,109 62,274 Females. 12,019 13,127 4,112 3,284 2,073 1,908 2,896 1,873 1,091 44,232 Total. 20,196 28,026 8,799 7,227 6,744 4,081 6,473 4,718 0,100 96,687 At present, the population is upwards of 100,000. At St. John's, society is composed of the same classes as in other British settle- ments. Along the coasts' many of the colo- nists employ themselves in farming as well VOL. I. as in fishing; and since the period that attention has been paid to religion and edu- cation — aided by temperance societies — the population has become far more orderly and continuously industrious than they were in by-gone times. When Newfoundland was first visited after the general discovery of the continent of America, it was found to contain two dis- tinct races of men — the one termed Red Indian, the other the Esquimaux ; both are now almost extinct, the former perhaps en- tirely so, as recriminating hostilities were waged between them and the early settlers, who shot and speared each other whenever an occasion presented itself. The destruction of the Red Indians was not owing solely to the occupation of the island by Europeans, but to the exterminating war of the Mic-Macs. 2t !*■ :'? m 822 MILITARY.— ECCLESIASTICAL ESTABLISHMENT— EDUCATION, Military Defence. — ^There are 11 harbour batteries. There is no militia or local corps. The militar J defence is defrayed entirely oy Qreat Britain, and amounted, in 1848, to £27,474. Fifty poonds are allowed by the colonjr towards the payment of the duties on wines imported or purchased annually for the use of the milita^. ^ Ecckriattical BtttAUihment.— In 1839, Newfoundland, which until then had been a part of jjhe ^ocese of Nova Scotia, was, with the Bermudas, erected into a separate see. The established church has 82 clergy- men, 18 parsonage houses, 64 churches, or places for the celebration of divine service. Of Roman catholic chapels there are 35. There are about 80 dissenting places of wor ship, of various denominations. Of the re- formed religion, the class the most nume- rous, and by far the wealthiest, is that of the church of England; they number 84,281 persons. Next to them, in point of number, are the Wesleyans, of whom there are 14,239 persons ; their establishment consists of 13 ministers, and they have 84 places of wor- ship. The Presbyterians of the church of Scotland number 576 persons, and they have one minister resident in St. John's, and one place of worship. There is likewise a con- gregational church at St. John's, and one resident minister; this section numbers 394 persons. The Roman catholic population number 46,785 persons; they have 42 churches, and a cathedral at St. John's, not yet consecrated. Their establishment con- sists of a bishop and 24 clergymen. To the bishop, a salary of £75 a-year, drawn from the North American clergy estimate, was formerly assigned ; but that sum, by a vote of the House of Commons in the past year, was raised to £300. The census of 1836 shows : — Dutricta. 8t. John's Concaptioii Bajr . . . Trini^BuT Bonansta Bit . . . Fogo and TwiUingate . Fen7had PlaeentU and St. Mut'i Biuriii Fortune Biy . . . . "4 ifiti 621 168 128 48 133 90 1^79 492 127 136 36 1(M 90 12 is at O 3313 6319 4,098 3,473 4/122 313 710 671 2312 ll 1,057 633.'1 1,639 461 *5 6 1,C96 II 14,056 10,063 1,066 1,240 819 4,798 3,986 1,374 308 Education. — There is a male orphan asy- lum with 470 children ; six grammar schools and academies, under the control of the local government; 4'0 schools established by ±e "Newfoundland and British North American School Society," on the Madras system, with about 2,784 male and female pupils in 1848, to which the local govern- ment subscribed jE500 jper annum; and eight sohools under the Wealeyan methodist connexion, to which the local government contributes i6250 per amnun. There is a "presentation convent school," with 400 female children, conducted by 11 ladies, nuns of a religious order. The superior, Mrs. Risevare, superintends under the Ro- man catholic bishop for the time being. Dr. Fleming, the present Roman catholic bishop, has, it is said, hitherto supported the estabushment, with the exception of an annual grant from the colonial legislature. Since the fire of 1 846 the number of pupils haa not exceeded 500. A want of accom- modation alone prevents a much larger at- tendance: the Blue Book for 1848 states, that " Under an Act of the local LegUlature for the en- couraffement of education in the colony, elementary ■choou have been eatabliihed in every diitrict in the iiland. By the provisions of this Act of the Legitla- ture, power is given to the governor to constitute in each district tvo separate and distinct Boards of Education, Roman catholic and protestant ; by no- minating aevea respectable inhabitants of each creed to each section. One resident clergyman of each ginaasion being «t o^!ctb a member of his respective oard, and to their care the regulation and supervi- sion of these schools is entrusted. " The scheme for the government of these schools has been found to be both efficient and satisfactory. The amount expended in fiirtheranoe of this object for the year 1847, was £6,067. His Excellency rightly adds, that in the present state of the great mass of the population of the colony, consisting, as it does, of simple and hordv fishermen, the subjects of instruction must necessarily be of a simple and elemen- tary nature. For the benefit of this class the colonial grant is given, a separate provision having been like- wise made for those, whose children require a higher education, it being the intention of the Legislature to provide for the emication of the sons ana daughters of fishermen ; of children that are to live ^e same simple, bborious, and honourable life as their parents are now doing. For it should not be lost sight of that the instruction must always have reference to the station in life which the child is hereafter to fill, the two-fold scope and object of all education being first to impart to the child that practical knowledge of bis duty to Ood and man, and of the grand purpose of his existence here, which may, through his mercy, en- sure his present and eternal happiness, and secondly, to convey that secular instruction which may best enable him to perform the part assigned to him among his fellow-men for theur mutual good." The census of 1846 shows 209 schools : — Conducted by Hasten. Conducted by Miitrenei, Male PupilB. a,468 Female Pupils. 3,674 Male Pupils. 358 Female Pupils. 866 Total. 10,260 REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 323 The Press and ItutUutiotu. — There are t\/elve newspapers published in the colony, viz. — tea at St. John's, and two at Concep- tion Bay. There is a chamber of commerce, an association of underwriters, a gas-light ci/mpany, two public libraries, fire compa- n-es, agricultural, benevolent, law, and other wjcieties, &c. Roads and bridges are under construction o- repair in every district of the colony, and a large part of the revenue is being devoted t ) this important purpose. A colonial legis- lative building is constructing at St. John's, at an estimated expense of iil5,000, and a )aarket at £7,000; £9,000 had been spent on the former, and £4,000 on the latter up to 1848. CritM. — ^There are three prisons, viz., at St. John's, Harbour Grace, and Ferryland ; and the number of prisoners in confinement at Michaelmas, 1848, was nine males and one female ; of felons there were, tried, males, five; femtdes, three. Untrieid, males, six. The number of debtors was 19. The tried misdemeanours were, males, 78 ; females, 8. Untried, males, 31 ; females, one. Of the total number of prisoners committed during the year 17 were under 18 years of age j of those who could not read or write. 9 i were males and 6 females. Revenue. — The sums collected in 1828 from customs, duties, rent of crown lands, licences, &c., amounted to £15,973 j in 1836 to £35,222 ; in 1843 to £50,881; in 1847 to £69,049. The revenue of Newfoundland for 1848 and 1847 was — Heads of Rorcono. Under imperial acta .... „ colonial acta Light dues Land sales and rents .... Licences, finus, &c Fees of public offices .... From N. A. clergy establishment By loan under colonial acts . . Parliamentaiy grant for fire Butferers Drawn from treasury for expenses on a shipwrecked vessel . . Expenditure 1848. 62,711 1847. £ £ 6,783 6,211 48,154 62,127 1,627 1,728 1,156 382 574 634 1,204 832 800 800 1,885 f ••• 4,160 } - 387 69,300 69,049 74,873 The civil department cost, in 1848, £5,921 ; Customs estimated, £7,580; Judi- cial, £6,580 ; police and magistracy, £5,574; ecclesiastical, £800; legislative, £119 (in 1847, £3,317) ; printing and stationery, £492; gaols, £f 21; coroners, £200; relief of poor, £9,700; education, £5,128; interest on loans, £4,328 ; loans paid, £5,400 ; and various other items, including rewards amounting to £25, for killing wolves. The governor has a salaiy of £3,000 a-year, with a house, and £200 tor fiiel and light, and a private secretary £200; colonial secretary, £500; treasurer, £500; surveyor-general, £500; collector, £800; chief judge, £1,200; two assistant judges, £700 each ; attorney- general, £450 ; registrar of supreme court, £350; sheriff of central district, £750; ditto of northern, £300; ditto of southern, £200 ; three stipendiary magistrates at St. John's, £300 each ; two at Harbour Grace, £300 and £180 each: one at Carbonear, Bri- gus. Trinity, Twillingate, and Bonavista, each £160 ; and eight others at salaries of £100 to £130 each. At St. John's, a high con- stable, £80; eight other stipendiary con- stables, £360; and in the other districts, stipendiary constables, whose salaries amount to £954 per annum. The Frotestalnt bishop has £500; the Roman catholic bishop, £300. The Protestant bishop receives also £900 from the " society for promoting the gospel in foreign parts." A recapitulation o( the establishment in 1848, shews :— Heads of Expenditure. Civil establishment Contingent expenses Judicial .... Contingent . . . Ecclesiastical . . Miscellaneous . . Prnsions . . . Totals . . . Paid by Gt. Britain. Paid by Culony. 800 800 £ 10,321 3,180 11,134 1,020 36,096 159 61,T)11 Coitu. — British money and Spanish dol- lars, established by the governor's proclama- tion at 4«. 4J. sterling, but passing current at 59. The amount of coin in circulation is estimated at £80,000 to £100,000;' The greater part of the trade of the colony is effected bv barter. Paper Money. — Quantity not known ; the bank of British North America has a branch at St. John's, and it is the only bank in tho island. lis 824 ■^ CHAPTER IV. VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL KINGDOMS, AGRICULTURE AND FISHERIES, COMMERCE^ TARIFF, SHIPPING, &e. Tbb Vioetable Kinodoh diiTen but little firom that of tlie adjaceut contineat. The interior is Biipposed to be covered with vast forests ; on the east and south coasts the trees are smaller than those growing in the same pnrallel on the main land, owing to the exposure to the sea and tempestuous wea- ther, but on the \V. and N.W. the trees are thickly planted and of considerable size. Of the conifera, the most prominent are the spruces, viz. the pinua balaamea or Canada balsam spruce, which reaches the usual height of its species, 30 feet; the pinua nigra, at black spruce, grows well at St. George's Bay, as does also the pinua alba or white spruce. The pinua rubra, red pine, grows about 30 feet in height. The pinua penidula, black larch, and pinua microcarpua, red pine, (the larix Americana of Miehaux), are the most useful of the island forest trees. The timber of the black larch is very solid, strong, and lasting. Excellent brigs and schooners are built in Newfoundland, entirely of the island timber, except the planking, which, as there are no saw mills to prepare, can be procured cheaper from tbe continent. The consumption of spruce and pine in the island for fishing stages, or places to dry the fish on, is enormous. These erections are formed at the edges of harbours, by uprights of great length, and cross beams from the hill side, forming a platform, which is then loosely covered with the boughs and branches of the pines, so as to admit air from beneath. The steep iron-bound coast renders the construction of these stages absolutely necessary for the prosecution of the trade ; the abundance of timber enables the fishermen to erect them at every available spot. The birch tribe arc; all common, the beech and elm arc ram, the Oatrya Virginica, iron or lever wood, exists on strong lands. The balsam popkT, trembling or aspen leaved, and the Lombardy poplar, " >i pretty well. The Canadian yew is sumcu.nes of considerable size, the willow thrives well and attains a large size; the mountain ash grows 15 to 20 feet high. Tlie dog wood is plentiful, but is merely a bush. The timber is larger and more varied at St. Oeorge's Bay,, the Bay of Islands, and in the country around the Grand Pond, than in any other part of the island. The Bay of Islands has long been a valuable resort for the ship builder, and the whole coast to the northward to the beautiful double bay of Ingomachoix is equally capable of supplying timber for the same purpose. The fir, pine, ash, beech, birch, and juniper (the latter, not the shrub of that name, but a larch) are all to be obtained in the interior of the island. The country about the river Ilumber is densely covered with fine woods. Dr. Chap- pell describes the banks of the St. George's or Main Biver as composed of loose earth, covered with various lichens, and surmounted with whole forests of black and white spruce, larch, fir, and birch. There is an immense variety of recumbent and trailing evergreens, and the berry-bearing shrubs clothe every swamp and open tract; the whortleberry, cowberry, hawthorn, partridge berry, trailing arbutus, raspberry, strawberry, and a small kind of prickly gooseberry — carpet the soil in desert places. Sarsaparilla {aralia medi- caulua) is produced in the woods. Mr. Jukes notices that after the forest is burned down, a crop of wild raspberries springs up, and is succeeded by birch trees ; and he also speaks of good currants, raspberries, and gooseberries growing in the garden hedges, and wild in the woods. " At one part," he says, " of Lark Harbour (Humber Sound) where there had been one or two temporary huts and cleared spots, the raspberries were in the utmost profusion, and were equal both in size and in flavour to the best garden rasp- berries of England. Currants were found pretty plentifully, also chiefly on the cliffs, or wherever there was a broken bonk with rocky ledges. They were both red and black, and of a different species from our English currant, being covered over with small spines like the rough red gooseberry ; the branches, too, bad occasionally a sofi VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND FLOWERS. NEWFOUNDLAND. 825 thorn. Tho flavour waa rather hanh, but still vcrv agreeable, especially when made into puddings." The wild gooseberries are more rare ; the fruit is small and sweet, pre- cisely like the small rough red English gooseberry. The wild or choke-cherry is a verv ornamental tree, the bunches of minute Tellowiah-white fragrant flowers are followed by long pendulous grape-like fruit, placed on a stalk resembling currants. The fruit is first of a dark red colour, and when ripe, black, — pleasantly astringent, and devoured greedily by birds. The Kentish cherry thrives with care at St. John's. The wild })lum, and the prunus depressa are common in the woods. The hop thrives near gardens ; the melon is reared, and the cucumber and vegetable marrow without much difliculty. The garden strawberry and raspberry are excellent. The apple, jpear, and plum do not arrive at great perfection on the east side of the island; but cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoU, lettuce, spinach, cress, beet, parsnips, carrots, peas, Windsor beans, French beans, celery, thyme, mint, savory, and all the British culinarjr vegetables and herbs arrive at great perfection. Sir R. Bonnycastle says in re- ference to the remarkable yield of potatoes, that " from one rowan potato cut into pieces he had a crop of 108 good sized tubers." The potato disease reached Newfoundland in 1846-7, and caused great destruction. There are three species of rose, na- tives of Newfoundland; this beautiful flower grows in rich profusion; rosa blanda, with its slender purple-red branches, flour- ishes in the vicinity of streams. The moss, damask, maiden's blush, and Provenge rose thrive well in gardens. The moose wood, or heather wood shrub (dirca paluatrisj pro- duces yellow flowers, and a small yellow berry ; its bark is flexible, strong, and well adapted for withes to tie packages. Violets are common, but inodorous. In the tiibe of lilies, says Sir R. Bonnycastle, " Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness. L. Philadelphicum is almost the same in ap- pearance as the common orange lily ; L. Su- perbum ornaments some of the ponds, and is orange with dark blue spots ; L. Canadense also grows in wet places, and has a collection of yellow or reddish flowers maculated darkly. The Iri$ or wild flag, is a superb flower, and very common in Newfoundland, its rich blue dotting evety marshy place in the flower- ing season. Sisyrinchium anceps, or the blue-eyed grass, also assists the rich dbplay." The guelder rose is a native of the country : the " hearts-ease" once planted in a garden are with difficulty extirpated. The lily of the vallev, Solomon's seal, the campanula, convolvulus, Jacob's ladder, honeysuckle, the painted herb, fox-glove, columbine, wild lupine, potentilla, cowslip, yellow and white water-lily, and other flowers, charming and common to England, are found either wild or cultivated in Newfoundland. In shel- tered gardens, the dahlia does well by cover- ing its roots in winter. Perennials thrive better than annuals, on account of the short- ness of the summer. In general, the flowers are larger and more spread than those of Europe, but not so odorous. The " pitcher plant," or lady's saddle, with its large, hand- some, purple flowers, is the naturu produc- tion of the swamps. The leaves are tubular, or pitcher-shaped, and always filled with about a wine-glass of the purest water : the receptacles are lined with inverted hairs, ' which prevent the escape of insects, many ] of whom find their graves in the pitchers, and are supposed to serve for the food of the plant. The lids expand or shut, according to the necessities of the plant, and the pitchers are of so strong a texture, that they bear heat enough, for some minutes, to boil water in them. | There is a very great variety of European and American grasses ; the juncus, or reed tribe, are numerous, and the lichens and ferns afford a fine field of research for tho botanist. One of the most beautiful of tho ferns, termed the " maiden hair," fadiantum pedatumj is a little trailing plant, bearing a small white fruit, like the egg of an ant, whicL contains so much saccharine matter as to be lusciously sweet when preserved. Natural red and white clover, and the vetch, cover the sandy banks near the sea, in New- foundland and Labrador, to such an extent, especially in Labrador, that vessels requiring fodder, send their boats ashore to gather this rich natural crop. These details, although they refer to but a part of the vegetable kingdom of NewfouncUand, are sufficient to disprove the assertions by which it was so long misrepresented as a barren region of fog, ice, and snow, adapted only for the temporary residence of cod fishers and ^al hunters. Animal Kingdom. — ^The deer, bear, wolf, fox, hare, marten, dog, wild cat, rat, and mouse, constitute the chief land quadrupeds of Newfoundland with which we are ac- quainted. Of the deer tribe there are several t :; 1 m 820 ANIMAL KINODOM; BEARS, WOLVES, D008. varietiei : the caribou, or rein-deer, is a vonr Uuvo uuinid, with immenie antlen; their paths, which raMmble iheep-widlu, are found all over the country; the foot-marka are like those of a cow, but wider and larger. The moss on which they feed is abunduit. During the early part of summer they sepa- rate into pairs, and hide themselves in the recesses oi the woods. In September and October they are in tho best condition, and migrate from the north towards the south, swimming in herds across the lakes and arms of the sea. Formerly, the herds that came to the south coast are stated to have been enormous. Mr. Bagg, of La Froile, says he has Rcen " thousands," and has killed seven at one shot, with heavy slugs, from a large sealing gun. About March they re- migrate towa^ the north. The flesh is soft, juicT, and tender, and is sold in St. John's, during winter, for fifteen shillings a quarter. This useful animal might be do- mesticated in Scotland. Black bean are becoming scarce; they are the loug-legged variety, with a pointed muszle, of a terrier's spot colour, and verr large. They live principaUy on berries ; will run from a man, and are not savage, except when wounded. They appear to l» fond of pork and molasses ; and, in winter, will ap- proach lone houses in the woods in search of food. The white, or polar bear, occasionallr lands from the ice at Newfoundland. A fine one was recently killed near St. John's, while endeavouring to make his way across the country, from the east to the west coast. The woffia a large and very powerful ani- mal, grey on the back, and yellow beneath. They rarely, if ever, attack men, or even childron, but will dodge the steps of a tra- veller—one or more on each side of him — ready to take advantage of any accident which may befal him. Mr. Lane, of Fresh- water Bay, walked, on a winter evening, up Oambo Pond, on the snow, to visit a person living at the head of the pond. On his return, the next day, he found the tracks of two wolves, one on each side of his own foot-marks, who seemed to have methodically accompanied him. The tracks, every now and then, separated for about 100 yards; then, at regular intervals, closed in again on his track. They appeared to have fol- lowed him one on each side, in order to come on bis track should he diverge, while they met occasionally, to be sure he had not passed them. A wolt is more than a match for a NewftHindlaud dog. Large numbers of deer and some young cattle are destroyed by these rapacious animals, for each of whose heads a reward of :£5 ia given by the colo- nial government. Tke Fbx is tolerably abundant; besides the common yellow or reddish, there are tho black, silver, blue, and white foxes. The black and silver are much valued for their tat. The Hart in some parts is plentiful, of a large siie compared with those in England ; it becomes of a dirty white in winter. Marteni are now becoming scarce; they are considered by some farmers excellent eating, but tasto too much of spruce and other woods. TTte Dog, so celebrated for its beauty, sagacity, and fidelity, appears to be much neglected in Newfoundland; at St. John's and its neighbourhood they are described by Mr. Jukes as the most ill-looking set of mongrels that can be conceived. In the outports the breed is said to be better pre- served. Colonel Sir R. Bonnycastle says, that at the Twilliugate islands on the north coast there are stiU some splendid dogs to be found : they are of two kinds, the short wiry-haired Labrador dog, and the long, curly-haired Newfoundland species, gene- rally black, with a white cross on the breast. Their habits adapt them as much to the water as to the land. The common dogs used in the catamarans ore of every possible cross with these, and of every variety of colour and fur. They all appear to prefer fish to any other food, and seem stoically indifferent as to whether it be fresh, salted, or putrid. The spotted mahogany-coloured short-haired Labrador dog, is said to be the most attached to man, and the best house guardian; the other variety with bushy, curl- ing tail, the best water dog; both endure the extreme cold, and prefer a snow bed to any sheltered sleeping-place. The whole race appear to be particularly fond of chil- dren : but the Labrador dog, if not well fed, is a sheep biter nnd a dexterous thief. New- foundland aiiJ Labraaor dogs, when removed to a warmer climate are subject to glandular swellings in the ear, which require lancing ; they are seldom attacked with hydrophobia, and it is said when ill and past cure they frequently retire to woody or secret coverts to die unobserved. The Beaver is found only in the interior of ponds and marshes. The Mutquash (fiber zibethicus) of musk rat, whose habits are like those of the BIRDS, REPTILES, INSECTS— NEWFOUNDLAND. 837 bemver, ia abundant ; the tail is thick and round, whercoa the tail -of the beaver ii like a trowel. 7^ common Rat ia dcatructively numeroua. 77k« wUd Cat ia found only in the interior. Birda are numerous in the interior; among thoae known arc the oaprcy or aea-eagle, the hawk trilxi, owls in amazing number and variety, particularly the snow white and the light gray; among thu pie family, the raven aa elsewhere atteuda the labour of man ; the crow freauenta the fields, and a variety of the blue jay ia known. Two kinda of wood- pcckera areoocaaionallvscen, one the speckled sort. The Newfoundland blackbird is sup- poaed by Sir R. Bonnycaatle to be the rose- coloured ouzel, and is called in the island a robin, though aa large as a blackbird. The martin stars about ten weeks in summer; the frellow willow wren is very common, and the ittle wren is seen ; the ferruginous thrush, flv-catcher, yellow-breasted chatterer, little black-cap, titmouse, the grossbeak, the snow bird resembling an ortolan, and the spar- row, the latter not of the true genus, are all, with various other species of the winged tribes, found in Newfoundland. Ptarmigan are in abundance; they are very like the Scotch grouse, and there is said to be little specific difference between the red grouse, gorcock or moorcock of Bewick, (tetrao Scoticus) and the ptarmigan of Newfoundland, which must not, however, be confounded with the arctic or northern ptarmigan (tctroo lagopua), both turn white in winter ; but the Newfoundland bird has a rufous brown plumage, mixed with white in summer. Three of these birds shot near Trepassy, on the 10th of May, weighed together five pounds thirteen ounces and a huf. One cock bird, shot Slst January, with nearly white plumage, weighed twenty- eight ounces. They are much used for the table, roasted and made into white soups. Of tho gndUe there are two or three species ; of plover, the golden and the grey ; tne bit- tern, long-billed curlew, snipe, whimbrel, and sand-piper are common. Of water birds there are the Canada and snow goose, blue-winged teal, shoveller or great brown duck; widgeon and mallard fre- quent the interior ponds ; and varieties of sea birds, among others the gull, lazy cor- morant, baccalao, pin-tailed duck or sea pheasant, eider duck, kittiwake, tern, ice- bird or sea dove, goosander, noddy, divem or loon, auck, puffin, and razor-bill, the coast. The Newfoundland goose is a remarkably elegant bird, with a swan-like form and a bUick ring round its neck) it ia eaaily do- meaticatea but doea not breed. In winter monv arctic birda frequent the coaat; but the large auk or penguin (alea impennia), which lisaa than half a century ago was a sure sea-mark on or within the edge of tho Newfoundland bank, has diaappeared, from the deatructivo trade carried on for their egga and akin. Thov are atmut the aize of a gooae, with a coal black head and back, a white belly, and a milk-white apot undor the right eye. Their wings are more, like fina, and have down and abort feathers on them. The aucks kro said to have no thumbs like the South Sea penguins. Reptilee. — There is a total absence of venomous reptiles; even toads, frogs, or lizards, which are abundant on the neigh- bouring continent, are unknown in New- foundland. Iruectt, such aa mosquitoes, stinging mid- ges and fliea, are in myriads. Amphibia. — The morse or sea-horse (tri- chicus rosmanu) formerly abounded on the coast of Ne '^bundmnd and on the straits of Belle-isle, but has been destroyed for its blubber and hide, the latter being used for coach traces. The morse is larger than an ox, has been seen 20 feet long, covered with short yellow hair, and has two canine tusks in the lower jaw, 2 feet long, pointing downwards. The seal abounds around Newfoundland ; they are killed on the ice with clubs, in thou- sands. The cries of a young seal are like t'aose of a child in extreme agony, and &Tc something between shrieks and con- vulsive sobbing. These cries seem to be the amusement of the young seals when left alone on the ice ; and the same cry is used to express enjoyment or pain, fear or defi- ance. The young seal is of a dirty white colour. The common seal (phoca bitulina), is of a yellowish-grejr or brownish, with yellow spots, becomes white from age, and is from three to five feet long. The hooded seal (phoca crystala) is of a dark grey colour, with man^ irregular shaped spots and blotches of considerable size, seven to eight feet long, with a piece of loose skin on it which can be inflated and drawn over the eyes, and is nearly ball proof. It has the power of distending its nostrils, which gives it a formidable ap- pearance. The harp seal is so named from the old male animal having, in addition to a number of spots, a broad curved line of connecting blotches proceeding fit>m each ^. 32S SEALS, CETACEA, AND FISH. shoulder, and meeting on the back above the tail, something like an ancient lyre. The female has not the harp; she leaves her young on the ice and returns from fish- ing occasioiially to suckle them; the milk is of a thick creamy consistence, and of a yellowish-white colour. The " square fip- per" seal is rarely seen off Newfoundland; it is said to attain a size'of 12 to 15 feet. Celacea. — The whale, grampus, and por- poise abound. The true Greenland balsenae or toothless whale, of which seven species have been observed, do not often visit the Newfoundland waters: they vary m size from 45 to 70 feet, an& the quantity of oil yielded is in proportion to the longest blade of whalebone, vis., at the rateof one gallon and a half to one foot of whalebone. The inferior jaw bone sometimes measures 25 feet. It has a black skin ; the gray whale is longer than the above mentioned. The baltenop- tera, or finned whale, with a homy fin on the lower portion of the back, is sometimes more than 100 feet in length. The beaked whale is onlv about 25 feet long; it has pouches or folds of fat on its throat and belly. The broad-nosed whale attains a huge length. The cachebts, or whales with teeth in their lower jaw, have an immense head, which is frequently in size one-half or more than a third of the whole animal ; the physeter species attains an almost incredible length ; on good authority it has been seen 144 feet in length ; the usual size is 60 feet. It feeds on the hump fish, cuttle, dog-fish, and even small shark ; the toothless whale feeds on molluscte, or gelatinous matter. The toothed whale furnishes spermaceti, which ia found below the nose or snout. The trumpo, blunt-headed, or New England cachelot, has an enormous head, the upper jaw has 18 teeth, is five feet longer than the 4ower ; length of animal 60 feet ; it is very ugly, bold, and swift, and opens its huge jaws in fight like the hippopotamus. It yields a very fine, pure oil, which is obtained in cells near the brain, and is procured by boring the scull. On the coast of Newfoundland, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the Labrador shor?, cetacea of all sizes are seen, from the physeter malar, or great finned cachelot whale, with its huge back fin, like the mast of a ship, down to the porpoise. The whale fishing is now becoming an im- portant banch of trade for the colony. The monadons or narwals, the unicorns of the deep, are furnished with a piercer or tusk, and called sword -fish ; some are single- sworded, 13 to 16 feet long, others double sworded, 12 to 26 feet long. The Esqui- maux vdue their flesh and oil as aperients. The sword grampus, a species of dolphin, has a singular scimitar-shaped high dorsal fin ; long, bony, and broad at the base. He is about 30 feet in length, ferocious, has 90 cylindrical teeth, 1^ inches above the gum, and a fierce persecutor of the whale and seal. In Sir Kl. Bonnycastle's volumes there is a detailed and very interesting account of the cetacea, of which tribe the author seems to have acquired much information in the Arctic and Northern Atlantic seas. ^A. — ^The bonks of Newfoundland swarm with almost every variety of the finny tribe, of which the smaller sorts serve as rood for the omuiverous cod. " The incredible shoals of lance, a small, elongated, silvery, eel-like creature, the interminable armies of migra- tory herrings, the hosts of capclin which are met with in their several seasons, cause the seas to boil and gUtter in their rapid paths, producing the effects of currents upon the bosom of the tranquil deep." The locusts that darken the air, in the countries subject to their devastation, are not to be compared in numbers to the periodical journeyers of the Newfoundland seas. The capelin, (salmo arcticus,) which is the great object of attrac- tion to the cod, whale, &c., is about seven inches long, with a slight, elegantly-shaped body, greenish back, and silver belly, and some of their scales tinged with red. The male fish has a rough fascia, beset with mi- nute pyramidic scales, standing upright, Ukc a pile of plush above the lateral fins. Sir R. Bonnycastle says, that when the female seeks the shore for the purpose of depositing spawn, she is taken between two of these ridged males, and they all three rush vio- lently onwards, the compression excluding the oVa : two, three, and oven as many as ten have been observed thus glued together by these villous crests. The eggs are depo- sited among the smisdler fuci and confervac, on which they feed. The dorsal fin is in the middle of tne back; tail forked; scales minute. In taste, it resembles the smelt. This beautiful little fish, in June, and early in July, crowds into the shores of New- foimdland in countless myriads to spawn. Wherever there is a strip of beach at the head of a bay, every rolling wave strews the sand with hundreds of capelin, leap- ing and glancing in the sun till the next wave sweeps them off and deposits a fresh multitude: the white foam, and the gliO ■VARIETIES OP THE COD FISH— HERRING AND MACKEREL. 329 tcriug colours of tlic fish, form a beautiful sight. jVIr. Anspach, wlio resided in Conception Bay, thus describes the arrival of a capelin schule, or shoal : — "It is impossible to conceive, mucli more to de- spribe, the splendid appearance, on a beautiful moon- light night, at this time. Then its vast surface is completely covered with mvriads of fishes, of various kinds and sizes, all actively engaged, either in pur- suing or avoidinp each other ; the whales, alternately rising and plun);ing, throwing into the air spouts of water ; the cod-fish, bounding above the waves, and reHecting the light of the moon from their silvery surface; the capelins, hurryiiifj away in immense shoals, to seek a refuge on the shore, where each retiring wave leaves multitudes skipping u])nn the sand, an easy prey to the women and children, who stand there with barrows and buckets, ready to seize upon the jjrecious and plcntifid booty; whilst the fishermen, in their skiffs, with nets made for that ])urpo3e, are industriouslv employed in securing a sufticient quantity of this valuable bait for their fishery." There are several varieties of the eod-fish on the Newfoundland shores ; the principal fish caught is like the gadus morrhua of Lin- najus, or ash-coloured cod ; the gadus carbo- narius or coal cod (seyfish of Norway) is largely dispersed, and the best eating of the two ; it sometimes weighs 20 or 30 pounds. The fisli caught on the bank arc sujjposcd to be better than the shore fish. The bait used for the cod, when taken with hook and line, is the capcliu ; when the capelin leaves in August, the young squids or ctittlc-fish are caught up for bait, and when their season is over, tlie autumnal, or " fall," herrings arc used ; shell-fish, both fresh and salted, is used for the hook. Sometimes food is so abundant, the fish will not bite ; they are then taken with a jigger or plummet of lead, armed with hooks, and drawn quickly up and down in the water, by which the cod is attracted and struck with the hook as he swims round the jigger ; this mode is deemed ol)jcctionablc, as more fish arc wounded than caught. In some places the cod is taken in nets or sieves. The cod fishing closes in September; the /juantity one man may catch during the season is very great, as the fishers say they have the ehanec every day of catching five pounds worth of fish. A quintal of dry fish is made from about 300 weight of " green" or fresh fish, and the quintal is worth about 15»., consequently it woidd require a man to catch nearly a ton weight to produce a quan- tity of the value of .t5 : in other words he must eateh 221 cod of an average weight of 10 pounds each, in one day. Tlie wages are generally £20 for the summer, or five VOL. I. or six active individuals club together and catch cod to the value of jfilOO. Some families do not cure the fish themselves, but take it as it is caught to the stores of mer- chants, whose men cure it for the proprie- tors of the stores. The cod constitutes the wealth of Newfoundland; notwithstanding the myriads which have been taken by Europeans during the last two centv.ries, it seems as abundant as when the bunks were first visited. So prolific is the fish, that the spawn of a single cod if unmolested, would, it is supposed, in a few years fill the ocean. Salmon fishing is followed during the sum- mer by several families; the dog fish is caught for tlie sake of the oil contained in his liver ; the herring fishery is increasing, and the capelin is used for the food of man, as well as for bait for the cod. Of 32 known kinds of mackerel only one frequents the arctic regions. The yellow mackerel, which abounds in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is sup- 1 jsed to cross the Atlantic from the African coast. The gigantic mackerel or tunny fish is occasionally taken. Herrings appear in vast numbers. The mullet (mullen barba- tus and ruber), frequent the coasts. The lance is a long thin fish like a sand eel ; the sea on the banks sometimes seems alive with this little creature, which serves many other fish for fbod. The lakes and rivers in the interior contain excellent fish, so that the inhabitants possess at least abundance of this description of food, on which all the animals in the island, from the cow down to the domestic poultry, feed. AoRicuLTuiiE. — The governor. Sir G. Lc Marchant, has devoted great attention to this subject ; and his report to Earl Grey, in 18 J8, is very valuable. It shows that Newfoundland has not the inhospitable cli- mate and barren soil which has long been supposed peeidiar to the place : — " It may be said that the cultivation of the soil made little or no progress in Newfoundland until after the [icace with I'>ance in 1814. The sole occupation of the resident inhabitants was confined to the fishery; an opinion generally prevailed, that the soil and climate raised impassable barriers to agriculture. It was further considered, that the en- c()urHer cwt., according to the agree- ment that may be made between them previous to the commencement of the voyage. "The vessels in Conception Bay are insured in mutual societies, that is, a certain number of owners enter into an agreement with each other that tliey will pay all losses that may occur to each others vessels during the season. There are two of this description now in Conception Bay, one at Harbour Grace, the other at Brigus. Each one has a secretary, who keeps the records of the society, for which he is paid 15s. for each vessel insured. There are also three surveyors to inspect the vessels previous to pro- ceeding on the voyage, and to see they are properly equipped to encounter its dangers: they are paid a small sum for their services. The insurance in the Brigus society has been very light indeed, only five vessels having been lost since the year 1833, whereas the Harbour Grace society has been very unfortunate lately, the losses being very heavy. Iho vessels of St. John's are insured in a society, and a certain pre- mium is charged each vessel, according to her class." The fishing or catching of the seals is an extremely hazardous employment ; the ves- sels are from 60 to 150 tons, with crews of from 16 to 30 men each, provided with fire- arms, &c., to kill the seal, and poles to de- fend their vessels from the pressure of the ice. In the beginning of March, the crews of the vessels in their respective harbours collect on the ice with hatchets, saws, &c., and cut two lines in the frozen surface, wide enough apart to allow thei:* schooners to pass — an operation of great labour, as after the thick flakes have been sawn or cut through, they have to be pushed beneath the firm ice with long poles. The vessels then get out to sea, if possible, through the openings, and work their perilous way to windward of the vast fields of ice, until they arrive at one covered with the animals of which they are 834 MODE OF CATCHING SEALS. COD FISHERY. in quest, and which is termed a seal meadow. The seals arc attacked by the fishers, or, more properly speaking, hunters, with fire arms, or generally with short heavy batons, a blow of which on the nose is instantly fatal. The hooded seals sometimes draw their hoods, which are shot-proof, over their heads. The large ones frequently turn on the men, especially when they have young ones beside them, and the piteous cries and moans of the latter arc truly distressing to those who are not accustomed to the im- mense slaughter which is attended with sc great a profit. The skins, with the fat sur- rounding tfie bodies, are stripped off together, and the carcases left on the ice. The winter tenants on the Labrador coast say the young seal is excellent eating. The pelts or scalps are carried to the vessels, whoso situation during a tempest is attended with fearful danger; many have been known to be crushed to pieces by the ice closing on them. Storms during the dark night, among vast icebergs, can only be imagined by a person who has been on a lee shore in a gale of wind ; but the hardy seal hunters seem to court such hazardous adventures. In 1834 the number of vessels employed in the seel fishery was 353, of which 120 were from St. John's. The number of seals caught was: in 1831, 7'14,000; in 1832, 523,000; in 1833, 438,000; in 1834, 401,000. Number of Vessels sailing for the Seal Fishery, Spring, 1847. Uiatricts. St. John's .... Brigus Carboncar . . . . , Harbor Grace . . . , Ports to the Northward Total . Vctsels. 95 66 64 51 74 340 Tonnage. 9,353 6,010 4,634 5,084 5,803 29,884 Mon. 3,215 2,111 1,672 1684 2,123 10,805 Nitmher of Seals caught. Spring, 1847. Fiahing Stations. Manufactured in St. John's .... Manufactured in Conception and Trinity B«y Total number caught . . Estimated value of seals caught, Spring,"! 1847 J Seals caught. 334,270 110,910 455,180 £214,175 " Cod Fishery. — The extraordinary abundance of cod fish on the banks and shores of Newfoundland was speedily ascertained after tlie discovery of the island in the year 1470. The fishery in 1626 was rapidly growing into importance, and at that time the island began to supply the demand in Spain and Italy. _ At the close of the late war the fisheries rose to a pitch of prosperity quite unprecedented, the ex- ports in the year 1814 amounting to £2,831,538. When, however, peace was restored, the British government conceaed to France her extensive rights of fishing exactly as they stood at the commencement of the war ; ana now, owing to the large bounties with which that government supports ana encourages their fisheries, we are obliged to compete with them on very unequal terms in the supplying of foreign markets, so much so that the British Bank Fishery has ceased to exist, and the fisheries have dwindled down to an open boat in-shore fishery, and even that is year after year getting worse, and has ceased to give the remunerative emplojment to those engaged in it, as was the case in bygone years. " The cod fishery opens at the beginning of June, nnd lasts till about the middle of October, and may be said to form the staple occupation of the inhab- itants of this colony; it is prosecuted by the planters and their assistant fishermen, who form one of the two classes of this community ; they live under the control and influence of the other class, the mer- chant, on whom they are solely dependent for the supplies and requisite means for pursuing their calling. " By the census of 1845 the planters, fishermen, and shoremen amounted in number to 18,603 per- sons, and their boats, which are divided into three classes according to the burthen of fish they can carry, amounteu to 10,089; the. divisions being — 8,092 boats, carrying from 4 to 16 quintals of fish ; 1,026 boats, from 15 to 30 quintals; and 972 boats, from 30 quintals upwards. " The quantity of dried cod fish exported in the year 1847 was 837,973 quintals, the vabie of which may be estimated at £489,940. The liver of the cod yields a large quantity of oil, which is extracted from It by natural heat, no other preparation being neces- sary than merely putting it into casks, and when it is fully decayed drawing off the oil. A quintal of good fish will yield more than a gallon of oil, but the pro- duce of the season is not more than 80 gallons to 100 quintals of fish. The quantity of cod oil exported in the past year was 2,369 tuns, the value of which may be estimated at £60,320. There are, as above stated, an immense number of boats of different descriptions engaged in the shore fishery ; viz. punts, skiffs, jacks, or jackasses, western boats, and shallops, employing from one to seven men each, according to their size, and the dis- tance they may liave to sail before they reach their respective fishing grounds. The punts and small boats are generally manned by two persons, and occupied in fishing within a very short distance of the harbour, or circles to which they belong ; the skiffs, carrying three or four hands, proceed to more distant stations, sometimes twenty or thirty miles; the western boats are larger than skiffs, and usually fish off Cape St. Mary's, off the entrance of a bay so named; the shallops are still larger craft, but now almost obsolete: some of this latter class have been known to admeasure 50 or 60 METHOD OF CURING THE CODFISH. 835 tons each. The punts and skiifs, consti- tuting what is termed a " Mosquito fleet/' start at the earliest dawn of day, and pro- ceed to the fishing grounds, when the cod are expected in great abundance, for at certain seasons they congregate and swim in shoals, and are not unfrequently as capri- cious in their resort as the winds which are said to influence their movements: these boats generally land their cargoes at the " stage " at least once a day, usually in the evening, except it be in the height of the season, during capelin time, when they may occasionally load twice a day ; the western boats and shallops split and salt their fish abroad, and return to their respective har- bours when they may have expended all their salt, or loaded their craft. The stage is erected on posts, and juts out into the sea, far enough to allow the boats to come close to its extremity, for the ready discharge of their cargoes; it is generally covered over, as the rain will injure the fish, and on the same platform is the salt house, with the benches for the cut-throat, header, splitter, and suiter, the two latter having in in point of wages the precedence, and the two former being on a par. Having thus explained the method of cod-fishing, it remdns only to describe the manner of curing. Each salting-house is provided with one or more tables, around wliich are placed wooden seats and leathern aprons for the cut-throats, headers, and splitters. The fish having been thrown from the boats, a man is generally employed to pitch them with a pike from the stage upon the table before the cut-throat, who rips open the bowels, and having also nearly severed the head from the body, he passes it along the table to his right-hand neighbour, the header, whose business is to pull ofl' the head, and tear out the entrails ; from these he selects the liver, and in some instances the sound; the head and entrails being precipitated through a trunk into a flat- bottomed boat placed under the stage, and taken to the shore for manure; the liver is thrown into a cask exposed to the sun, where it distils into oil, and the remaining blubber is boiled to procure an oil of infe- rior quality, and the sounds, if intended for preservation, are salted. After having un- dergone this operation, the cod is next passed across the table to the splitter, who cuts out the back bone, a^ low as the navel, in the twinkling of an eye. With such amazing celerity is the ope- ration of heading, splitting, and salting per- formed, that it is not an unusual thing to see ten codfish decapitated, their entrails thrown into the sea, and their back bones torn out, in the short space of one minute and a half. The splitter receives the highest wages, and holds a rank next to the master of the voyage ; but the Salter is also a person of great consideration, upon whose skill the chief preservation of the cod depends. For the next process, the cod are carried in hand barrows to the salter, by whom they are spread in layers upon the top of eacn other, with a proper quantity of salt between each layer. In this state the fish continue for a few days, when they are again taken in barrows to a square flat wooden trough (commonly called the ram's horn, supposed to be a corrupt term from the French verb Rincer,) full of holes, which is suspended from the stage head in the sea. The washer stands up to his knees in this trough, and rubs the salt and slime ofl" the cod with a soft mop. The fish are then takea to a convenient spot, and piled up to drain; and the heap thus formed is called a " water-horse." On the following day or two the cod are re- moved to the fish flakes, where they are spread in the sun to dry ; and from thence- forward they are kept constantly turned during the day, and piled up in small heaps called faggots at night. The upper fish are always laid with their bellies down- wards, so that the skins of their backs an- swer the purpose of thatch to keep the lower fish dry. By degrees the size of these faggots is increased, until at length, instead of small parcels, they assume the form of large cir- cular stacks 0^ piles ; and in this state the cod are left for a few days, as the fishermen say, to " sweat." The process of curing is now nearly complete, and the fish exposed one or twice to the sun are afterwards stored up in warehouses, lying ready for exportation. There are three qualities of cured cod- fish in Newfoundland. They are distin- guished by the titles of merchantable fish, Madeira, and West India fish. Merchant- able fish are those cured in the best possible manner, and having no apparent defect : Madeira are those having some slight blem- ish' on the face, occasioned by an undue quantity of salt, or being sun-burnt ; West India having, in addition to the defect of the Madeira, some cracks in the middle, or broken at the fins. 336 QUANTITY AND VALUE OF FISH AT NEWFOUNDLAND. Merchantable fish are generally shipped for the Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, and South American markets. Madeira and West India fish are supplied to the West Indies, and of lato years a considerable quantity has been annually exported to the southern and western counties of Ireland. The west of England also consumes no un- important quantity of salted cod annually. Madeira is Is, a quintal under Merchant- able, and Is. 6d. more than West India. It will be evident, when the foregoing statements are examined, that the cod fish- eries of Newfoundland are to England more precious than the mines of Peru and Mexico; and, in truth, if we consider the vast quantities of fish annually drawn from the banks and adjacent coast, it will be found that as the mere representative value of gold, their worth far exceeds that of the precious metals, to say nothing of the im- portance of the subject in a maritime, com- mercial, and political point of view. "Herring Fishery. — ^Though the shores of New- foundland swarm with herrings from March to Decem- ber, yet the curing of these valuable fish has been in a certain degree totally neglected, tnough there is no country in the M-orld better adapted for prosecuting this tishery with success. Il is the opinion of many persons well versed in the trade, that if proper atten- tion was paid to it, and more care used in curing them than there is at present, in a few years the fishery would rise to such an importance, as not merely to be an auxiliary to the cod fishery as it is at present, but that it would almost rival it. In the past year the number of barrels exported was 9,007, and their value may be estimated at £3,111. " Salmon Fishery. — The salmon fishery has been carried on in this country from its earliest discovery, and nearly to the same extent as it is at present. The export of them has ranged from 2,500 to 5,000 tierces of 300 lbs. each for the past flO years, though that is not near half the quantity caught, as a great deal of salmon is shipped at the Labrador and parts of Newfoundland, the accounts of which do not pass through the Custom House, being sold generally to /Vmencan traders, who buy them loose Som ISs. to 25». per 100 lbs. The number of barrels exported in the past year was 4,917, the value of which may be taken at £9,782. The fisheries employed and produced as follows : — Employed. rroduco. Ywri. No. ot Boats. Tons. Men. Quintiils of Fish. Tuns of Train OU. Tuna of Seal Oil. In 1820 „ 1821 107 758 6,796 43,642 27.) 10,709 810,074 NoH 4,487 cturiu. 2,219 8,761 The quintal of fish was then estimated at 8». to 12s.; train oil at £IB to £20 per tun; seal ditto, ^£21 to £25. The following tables, exhibiting a com- parative statement of the quantity and value of the staple articles of produce exported in three years, will best show the items in which this deficiency occurs : — Quantity. Years. 1845 1846 1847 Dried Fiih. Quintali. 1,000,233 870,015 837,073 OUs. Seal Skins Tuns. 8,070 7,507 8,024 Number. 352,202 205,100 436,831 Salmon, Tierces, 3,545 6,201 Borrcli. 4,017 Ilerringt Barroln 20,003 12,119 0,007 Value. £ £ € £ £ 1845 600,900 243,640 40,123 12,794 11,234 1846 604,008 182,974 20,600 10,598 0,870 1847 489,940 229,185 46,280 9,782 6,111 The following abstract of a report on the French fisheries in Newfoundland, prepared by direction of the collector of her majesty's customs in Newfoundland, is worthy of con- sideration: — "The five years' average of fish taken, say 1831 to 1835 inclusive, at the French shore, on the banks and in the neighbourhood of St. Pierre and Miquelon, did not exceed 300,000 quintals, which, in 1835, was thus disposed of: — 27,000 was sent to Spain, Portugal, and Italy; 40,000 nearly was sent to the French colonies in the West Indies; 170,000 consumed in France; and 63,000 sent to France in a green state and re- exported: total, 300,000 ({uiiitals. " The amount of premiums, drawbacks, and boun- ties, granted in support of the French fisheries in 1836, was £883,000 sterling, or nearly 20,000,000 francs. Premiums from 100 to 600, and, in many in- stances, so high as 1,000 francs a man, were granted. The number of fishermen employed was 6,200. " The bounty on fish re-exported from France tc the French colonies in the West Indies, was 40 francs, 33). 4.(1. a quintal. It was shortly after that period reduced, and now remains at 24 francs. On fisn sent direct to foreign ports in the Mediterranean a bounty of 12 francs (lOs.) is paid; and on re-exportation from France to foreign ports, or in crossing the fron- tier by land into Spain, 10 francs, 6s. id. The largest premium granted a French fisherman does not at present, in any instance, exceed 130 francs. " In the year 1845 the number of French vessels which arrived at St. Pierre was 107 ; tons, 28,750 ; foreign vessels arriving at St, Pierre, 1846, — 119; total arriving at St. Pierre, 316; value of cargoes, £49,638. " The number of French vessels engaged fishing on tho Uanks and baited at St. Pierre 1845, 104; 16,760 tons; 2,601 men. " The quantity of fish taken by French vessels on the Uanks alone, and baited at St. Pierre in 1843, wos 208,000 quintals; caught in the neighbourhood of St. Pierre and Miquelon, 48,000; total, 256,000 quintals. "The fish taken on the French shore is not in- cluded in the above quantity of 256,000 quintals; but it will be seen that the fisherj' at St. Pierre in 1845, was only 43,100 quintals short of the whole catch, including the French shore, in 1836. " Of the last-mentioned quantity (48,000 quintals) taken in the neighbourhood of St. Pierre and Miquelon, COMMERCE— IMPORTS AND EXPORTS— SHIPPING. 337 nearly one-half was taken on the British fishing- ground. " The catch, as regards the fishery at St. Pierre, 1845, was thus disposctl of: — 48,000 were sent direct to the French colonics in the West Indies; 119,000 consumed in France ; 68,000 sent to France in a green state, and re-exported) and 31,900 to Spain, Portugal, and Italy : total, 256,900 quintals. "The quantity of herrings supplied the French, 1845, and used as bait on the banks :— "Say 25 vessels, averaging each 110 brls. =2730 » 25 100 „ 2500 .. 25 „ „ „ 80 „ 2040 » 29 69 „ 2000 104 vessels. Total . 9270 brls. " The quantity of capelin taken to the Banks and used as bait, is, as cnmpared with herrings, in the proportion of a hogshead to a barrel — one nogshead of capelin beinp equivalent to one barrel of herrings ; thus the quantity of capelin consumed by the French on the Banks m 1845, was 9,270 hhds., or 20,858 barrels, to which must bu added 4,000 barrels used on the shore fishery, making in the whole 24,858 barrels. "For many seasons past, until 1846, the quantity of capelin annually supplied to the French islands by our fishermen, was not less than 20,000 barrels. Up to the first of July last, capelin was in abundance at St. Pierre and Miquelonj a very unusual circum- stance, which is attributed to a prevalence of southerly and easterly winds. It was not therefore in demand at St. Pierre up to that date, imd subsequently from our being in the neighbourhood of Lamcline, not more than 300 hhds. were conveyed to St. Pierre from our shore. The consequence was, four or five of their flrst-clnss Bankers were entirely deprived of bait, and I am informed that they were only enabled to proceed to tlic Banks late in July on obtaining a supply of squids from our people. "'Ihe sums uaid ;br bait at St. Pierre in 1845, was, for herrings, £6,950, and for capelin, nearly £5,000. The former cost on an average 15a., the latter 5s. per barrel ; and not less than £2,800 was paid for fire- wood; the quantity sold was 3,200 cords, at 17». 6(/. per cord. These amounts, making in the whole £13,750, were mostly paid in cash, and the greater part of them eventually expended at St. Pierre in the purchase of dutiable articles. Along the line of coast extending from Hurin to Harbour Britain, a distance of 100 miles and upwards, there is not at present a single mercantile establishment." Commerce. — The trade of Newfoundland, for the reasons stated by several authorities, namely, French and American competition, has not of late years increased. The follow- ing tabic will serve as a comparison between the past and present trade of the colony : — Exports in Years. Quintals Barrels Kegs. Oil. Tuns. Seal Skins. Ave.ofl790,l,2 . 6.56300 6,276 1391 _ Ave. of 1798,9, 1800 382,881 2,223 — 2,131 _ 1805 626,380 6,876 —. __ -_ 1810 — — 1815 . . 1,215308 6,380 1,892 8,226 141,374 1820 899,729 4,913 20,026 8,224 221334 1825 973,464 3,790 6,680 7,806 221,.il» 1830 700,177 1,799 3,606 12,371 .559.342 In 1829 the imports were valued at £819,399, and the exports at £690,309. The following is a comparative statement of the staple articles exported from 1838 to 1843 :— Yearn. Dried Fish. Oils. Seal Skins. Salmon. IlorrinRS. Quintals. Value. Gallons. Value. No. Value. Tierces. Value. Barrels. Viiltio. 1838 . 721,515 £484,649 2,173,6.34 £249,428 375,361 £30,474 4,408 £13,310 15,270 £10,723 1839 . 865,370 508,157 2,224,262 245,269 437,501 46,336 2,922 11,092 20,806 13,840 1840 . 915,795 676,245 3,206,583 303,197 631,385 39,408 3,390 12,939 14,686 9,036 1841 . 1,009725 605,014 2,673,574 206,832 417,115 29,961 3,042 12,302 9,965 6,361 1842 . 1,007980 561,950 2,262,031 233.313 344,683 23,200 4,715 13,678 13,839 7,119 1843 . 936,202 532,194 3,111,312 335,975 651,370 40,497 4,058 12,216 9,649 4,570 Imports and Exports in 1848: — Countries. Imports. Exports Shipping. In. Out. Great Britain . . West Indies . . B. N. America . Elsewhere . . . United States . Foreign States . £ 276,769 2,496 127,060 7,512 229,279 126,512 £ 339,647 55,641 42,251 8,596 16,268 375,148 Tons. 27,952 [41,899 19,848 35,456 Tons. 17,257 67.504 4,653 38,051 Total . . 769,028 837.531 125,155 127,365 Total value of Trade for the last four years. Imports . , Exports , , VOL. I. 1845. 801,330 939,130 1846. 802,247 759,103 1847. 843,409 806,565 1813. 769,628 837,581 In 1846-47 the colony was afflicted with a scries of calamities ; short fisheries, failure of the potato crop, the destruction by fire of a great part of the capital, a hurricane which devastated the coasts on the i9th of Sep- tember, and the reaction on America of commercial distress in Europe. These dis- asters sufficiently account for the check given to commerce. The imports from Great Britain, include bread and biscuit, 115,303 cwts., valued at £23,940; candles, value £2,046; coals, £3,595 ; cordage and cables, £10,964 ; cot- ton manufactures, £35,582 ; flour, £1,766 ; Geneva, 1,289 gallons; gunpowder, £1,400; hardware and cutlery, £7,940; iron, bar, &e., £7,113; lead, bar and sheet, £1,748; lead shot, £1,368; lead paints, £1,712; leather 2x 888 SUMMARY OP OBSERVATIONS— NEWFOUNDLAND. manufactures, £32,234 ; linen manufactures, £5,016; sails, 9,509; lines and twines, £18,148; nails, £8,460; rum, £1,124; salt, j68,997; silk manufactures, £5,850; slops, £1,339; soap, £4,397; stationery, £4,176; building-stone, £1,793. These are some of the items of imports from England. The exports of dried fish in 1848 were in value £491,124, of which £30,469 came to Great Britain ; £51,807 to the West Indies ; £26,273 to British North America ; other colonics, £5,820 ; to United States, £7,592; and to foreign states, £369,963. The value of seal oil exported was £160,909; of cod ditto, £87,622 ; salmou, £6,597 ; seol-skins, £50,426. The fish exported in 1848, was, of dried cod, 920,366 quintals, value £491,924; core, 18, £10; salmon, 3,822 barrels, £6,597; her- rings, 13,872 barrels, £7,644 ; capelin, cod sounds, and tongues, 758 packages, £232 ; oils, 10,704 tuns, £253,472; seal-skins, 521,604, £58,426. Total value of fish, oil, and skins, £818,305. The consumption of fish in the colony is estimated at 1^ to 2 quintals for each mouth of the population, which raises the quantity of the fish caught from 140,000 to 200,000 quintals. In 1836 the number of fishing boats be- longing to the difiercnt places in Newfound- land was : — 1«. per ton ; salt meat, 1a. (id. per cwt. ; ale and porter, and household furniture, 10 per cent. ; wine in bottles, 2«. M. ; all other wines, \a.6d,-, brandy and gin, 2s. 6d.; rum and whiskey, 1«. 3^/. per gallon; apples, Is.Gd. per barrel; molasses, l{d. per gallon; refined sugar, 5«. per cwt. ; tea, 3d. per lb. ; tobacco, 2a, per lb. ; timber, 2s. dd. per M. ton ; timber and scantling, Is. 6d. per ton ; shingles, 1#. per M. ; salt implements and materials for fisheries, horses, cattle, sheep, pigs, corn, seeds, vegetables, manures, books, unrefined sugar, cofibc, coin, and bullion, free of duties; non-enumerated articles, 5 per cent. Districta. Under 15 Quintli. St. John's Conception Bay . . . Trinity Bay .... Bonavista Bay . . . Fogo and Twillingate . Ferryland Placentia and St. Mary's Burin Fortune Bay .... Totals .... 15 to 30 Quintls 700 1157 798 181 737 370 297 169 632 5141 43 46 168 197 36 139 128 55 21 833 Upwards of 30 Quintals. 13 109 11 51 6 77 90 138 19 514 Ship building is carried on in Newfound- land. The number and tonnage of those built were: — in 1837, 26 vessels, 1,170 tons; in 1838, 28 vessels, 1,652 tons; in 1839, 16 vessels, 811 tons; in 1840, 31 vessels, 1,659 tons; in 1841, 33 vessels, 1,683 tons; in 1842, 32 vessels, 1,553 tons; in 1843, 24 vessels, 1,192 tons. Colonial duties levied in Newfoundland in 1844 : — On bread, 3d. per cwt.; flour, la. Gd. per barrel ; oatmeal, la, 6d, per barrel; coals. I have described somewhat fully the his- tory and present condition of this important colony, whose annals (in themselves t'raught with much interest,) are closely connected with the maritime supremacy of Britain, since on its shores have been reared a skilful and hardy race of seamen, employed in a traffic, which, during the last two hun- dred and fifty years, has furnished fish and oil to the value of about £120,000,000 ster- ling. It is impossible to review, without deep regret, the mistaken and most injurious policy so long pursued with regard to New- foundland. Its brave and loyal, but rude, uncivilized, and mis-govcrnea people, de- served, and had their real posiiion been understood, would most certainly have re- ceived very different treatment from the home government; but the mis-represen- tations of a monopolizing party, aided by the infrequency and difficulty of communica- tion, except through an interested medium, prevailed, and Newfoundland with its com- manding position, fine harbours, and salu- brious climate, was tabooed as a barren and inhospitable island, totally unfit for the habi- tation of man, and capable only of main- taining a few fishing stations. These misap- prehensions are now passing away, the truth, unwarped by prejudice and unvarnished by exaggeration, is gradually becoming under- stood, and the results of an improved and im- proving system of legislation, are shewn in the progress of this ancient and truly British colony. The French and American encroach- ments, on the prittleges granted by the treaty, have been already adverted to ; any further comment would be, perhaps, ill- judged. BOOK VL— HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORIES. GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION, AREA, HISTORY, CONSTITUTION, AND WORKING OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY) PHYSICAL ASPECT, FORTS AND STATIONS, POPULATION, &c. The north-west tcmtories of British Ame- rica, exclusive of Canada, extend from the Pacific Ocean and Vancouver's Island along the parallel of the 49th degree of north lati- tude, near to the head of Lake Superior, and thence in a north-easterly direction to the coast of Labrador and the Atlantic. The Arctic Ocean forms the northern boundary. The whole region between the meridians of 55° and 141° of west longitude is included, excepting a strip of Russian territory on the Pacific Ocean, between 54? and 60° north latitude, of ten leagues in breadth, following the sinuosities of the coast. It is extremely difficult to form anything like a correct estimate of the dimensions of this vast region, from the number and ex- tent of its inland seas. Its length is stated by Murray at about 2,600 miles, and its breadth at nearly 1,4G0 English miles. Its area is calculated by Arrowsmith at 3,060,000 square miles. History. — In 15i/ Sebastian Cabot, while in search of the north-west passage, pene- trated into Hudson's Bay, but without dis- covering it to be an enclosed sea. In 1585 Davis, whilst prosecuting a similar investi- gation, discovered the strait since called by his name. In 1610 Hudson sailed through the strait, and into the bay named from him Frctum Hudson, " the Hudson Sea ;" but being compelled to winter there, extreme cold and severe suffering led to a mutiny among his ercw, and he, vfith several of his adherents, was exposed in a small boat, and doubtless perished ; a few only of the sailors returned to tell the tale. In 1616 Baffin traced the outlines of another great bay, to which his name was given. Subsequent voyages, made by several English navigators, proved that the vast expanse which had been taken by Hudson and others for the open sea, had no other outlet but tlic strait through which it had been entered, while its shores were found to be tenanted by furred animals of great value. The first idea of forming a settlement was suggested by a Frenchman, named Grosselier., to his own government, but being coldly received he obtained, through the British ambassador, an inter- view with Prince Rupert, before whom he laid his plan. The prince, entering warmly into the project, by his assistance, a vessel was fitted out, which, in September, 1688, reached a river then called Nemisco, to which the adventurers gave the name of Rupert. They wintered there with less suffering and diffi- culty than had been anticipated, and on their return made so favourable a report, as to induce Prince Rupert, the Duke of Albe- marle, Earl of Craven, Lord Ashley, and others, to form a company and commence a traffic in furs, for which purpose £10,500 was subscribed. A charter of incorporation was granted by Charles II., giving to the company full possession of " All the lands and territories upon the countries, coasts, and confines of the seas, bays, lakes, rivers, creeks, and sounds, in whatauevcr latitude tlicy shall be, that lie within the entrance of the straits, com- monly called Hudson's Straits, that are not already actually possessed by, nr granted to any of our sub- jects, or possessed by the subjects of any other Chris- tian Prince or State." Tiie charter proceeds to grant further, " 'I'he whole and entire trade and traffic to and from all havens, bays, creeks, rivers, lakes, and seas, into which tliey shall find entrance or passage by water or land out of the territories, limits, or places, aforesaid ; and to and with all the natives and people inhabiting, or which shall inhabit within the terri- tories, limits, and plaices aforesaid j and to and with all other nations inhabiting any the coasts adjacent to the said territories, limits, and places which arc not already possessed as aforesaid, or whereof the sole liberty or privilege of trade and traffic is not granted to any other of our subjects." A settlement was immediately formed by the company on Rupert's river. In 1674 stations were established on Moose river, and a few years after on the Albany, to 840 HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY AND NORTH-WEST ASSOCIATION. which were toon added two more on the Nelson and the Severn. Tl»e«e vigorou* meaaures awakened the French court to a •ensc of tlicir nctflect, and Grosseliez, already detached from the Kndish service, wan sent out, in 1682, to found a factory on Hayes Kiver, which he luccccdcd in doin|(, and also in surnrisin^^ the British one on the Nelson. From this time hostilities were of frequent occurrence between the Knglish and French settlers, yet notwithstandinf^ we find from a document laid before parliament in 1842, that the profits of the company must have been very large, since, notwithstanding losses sustained by the capture of the com- pany's cstablishm nts by the French in the years 1G82 to 1G88, amounting to £118,014, they were enabled to make a payment to the proprietors in 1G84 of 50 per cent.; another Siayment in 1688 of 50 per cent.; and a iirther payment in 1689 of 25 per cent. In 1690 the stock was trebled without any call being made, besides affording a payment to the proiunetors of 25 per cent, on the increased or newly-created stock; in the years 1692, 1694, 1696, and 1697, the com- pany incurred loss and damage, to the amount of Jt97,500, by other captures of their establishments by the French. Tlicse establishments were restored to the company by the peace of Utrecht in 1713, who in 1720 were enabled again to treble their capital stock with only a call of 10 per cent, on the proprietors. The forts were strengthened and new stations formed in the interior. In 1 749 a question arose in par- liament eonccmiug the rights of the com- pany, which was decided in their favour. In 1782 several of their establishments were taken by the French, under La Perouse, nevertheless their traffic appears to have been •■' ry profitable until their rights of ter- ritory „(\d trade were invaded by a rival association called the North-West Company, whose fierce competition caused much ani- mosity, and even bloodshed, proved very injurious to the Indians, and destructive to the fur trade. In 1813 an agricultural set- tlement was founded by Earl Selkirk on the Red River, which suffered greatly from the incursions of the Indians incited by the Noi "-h-West adventurers, who in a wild foray slew Governor Semple, the head of the British settlem^'it. Wlien tbe pi'ti e in \^V . three gentlemen m Loaion. ^'^il.vard Elli-e, Esq., and W. arstf S. Jj/GUlivray, wh?. repic- scnted in England the interrfits of the win- tering partners of the North-Wcst traders in America, offered to merpe their interr'sts in those of the Hudson's Bay ('oinpany : tliiv was assented to, and in 1821 nu act of Parli..- ment was passed, under whirh the Crown granted to the Hudson's Biijr Com])any, and to the three representative agents of the North-West Association in London and Montreal, a licence of exclusive trade for 21 years, in what were termed the " Indian territories," that is, over those tracts which might not be included in the grant of Charles II., aiul also over those tracts which, by mutual conseut, were open to the subjects of England, and to those of the United States. The three North- West Association agents merged into the Hud- son's Bay Company ; the exclusive, trading licence was surrendered in 1838, and, after careful examination and investigation, on 30th May, 1838, the crown granted, under covenant, another licence for 21 year- of exclusive trade over the aforesaid Indian and neutral territories. These licences which extended " to those parts in North America beyond the limits of the charter which the Hudson's Bay Company at present enjoy," (sec Board of Trade letter, 2nd of June, 1837, in Parliamentary papers of 8th Au- gust, 1842,) in nowise invalidoted or qucs- ti( Ml J the rights possessed by the Hudson's I fay Company, under the Royal Charter of 2nd >Tay, 1670, whieli has been recognised by various treaties and acts of Parliament. Previous to the recent Oregon treaty, the Hudson', Bay Company had formed settle- ments on the Columbia River, and some of its servants and retired officers established an agricultural farm at Puget Sound, south of the 49th parallel, and within the present American territories; but the Oregon treaty expressly guaranteed the " possessory rights ' of the Hudson's Bay Comjiany in the United American States, and of course thus acknowledged the : i> .;>s-i)i-vr rights oi' 'he Hudson's Bay Comi uiy north of the 49th parallel. In t' ■ . iii^ -^ ■ ' uce of 1838, the crown res ■' ., iu.it the right of establishing any colony in the ter- ritory over which the licence extended : hence the power now exercised by the crown of disposing of Vancouver's Island, by vesting it in the Hudson's Bay Com- pany under certain conditions. Constitution and Working oj the Hudson's Bay Company. — The Hudson's B.ay Com- pany, according to the printed list of 17th (lOVERNMKNT AND WORKING Ol THE HUDSON'S DAY COMPANY. 311 u Novembpr, 1817, conniiti of 23!) propriptum, roprciRiitiiif^ a capital Rtook of £UX),()00 The affnirn of the corporation arc manafreil by a governor, deputy-governor, and I'om niittce of iicvcn. I'lected bv pr,oprieton» hot - ing each not less than ilUOO Rtock for ni ^ monthn previous to voting, except such stock b« ftcquir)>d by beqncst, marriage, &c. Of the 239 proprietors, 55 liave more than two votes. Kach member of the committee nuMt hold not less than £1,800 stock. The charter of i67<' prescribes the mode of clcctitu., oai'.ii to be administered, &c. ; ui.ii ,1' ( t^' governor and company to inaLe la^i . .J ordinances for tho good novcjuinent oi' their territory, and the ad- ai 'nnt of trade, and to impose penalties and I'lnishinents not repugnant to the laws of £uglund. The company has, accordingly, established, at the Red River Settlement, at ft cc'siierable expense, a governor, council, recorder, sheriff, coroner, &c., for the due government of the affairs of the Assiniboia or Red River territory, and for the careful and legal administration of justice through- out Rupert's Land. Trial by jury, although not enjoined by the Royal Charter of 1670, was introduced into the Red River settlement by Sir George Simpson, under the directions of the Hud- son's Bay authorities in England. It ap- pears tlmt crime is comparatively rare in Rupert's Land, and that justice is cffec< lively and mercifully administered under the same safeguards that exist in England. The fur and peltry traffic of the Company is regulated by a Deed Poll, bearing date 2Gth March, 1821, on tho junction of the North-Wcat traders with the Hudson's Bay Company ; and by another Deed Poll, bear- ing date Gth June, 1834, "for ascertaining the rights and prescribing the duties of the chief factors and the chief traders, and for conducting the trade" The Deed Poll of 1821 was a co-partner > for 21 years between the Hudson's Bay Company and the repre- sD.tativcs of the Nnrth-West Company, on the basis that each should provide an equal capital for carrying on the trade. The ex- penses of establishments in England and America to be paid out of the trade, and no expense relating; to colonization, or to any business separate from trade, to form a charge on the concern. Profits were divided into 100 shares, of which 10 were divided between the cliief fn'>tors and chief traders, according to , rofit and loss; if a loss oc- nurrcd in one yf ar on these 40 shares, it was to be made good out of tho profits of next vear. Imrntory, general accoimt, and tariff •" zoods, to >« iiuidc out yearly on Ixt .June; and if prDfitx were not paid to par- ties witlii ' ^ days after 1st June, iiitcrett allowed ol five per cent. The goveiiior and '^ompany appointed governors to preside at conn 'ils of chief factors, who carried into effect '11 acts authorized by the c'iuf4»>r Senior chief traders assisted in forming council, if there were not seven chief factor's present; eneli member of council had a vote; two-tl irds formed a majority for decision. Thre> cliief factors must be present, besides the (ircsi- dent, to constitute a council. By >.hc Deed Poll of 1821, there were 2.5 chief factors and 28 chief traders appointed, who were named in alternate succession front tho Hudson's Bay Company, and North-West Company's servants. The servants of both compn ics wwe placed on an equal footing; thcU) -liares oMt of the 100, wore sub-divided into ."- ' shurcw, and each of tho 25 chief factors as enti- tled to 2 shares or Hfr^'i id '^'U' ' "f the 28 chief traders to liVth, — the rema. uing 7 out of the 85 shares were ttppropri;i'e(l to old servants, in certain proportioi s, for seven years. The chief factors superintend the bu iuess of the company at tho respective stations, and the chief traders under them carry on the trade with the Indians. Tho cUrks serve under both ; the humblest clerk, who goes out from the Orkneys or elsewhere, Ijy good conduct may rise to the chief positi( us in the service of the company. The salar ■« of the clerks vary from £20 to £100 per annum. The chief factors and traders who winter in the interior are allowed, in addi- tion to their share of profits, certain per sonal necessaries free of charge ; they arc not of course permitted to carry on any private trade for themselves with the In- dians; strict accounts, inventories, valua- tions, &c., are required of them annually, and the councils at the respective posts have power to mulct, admonish, or suspend any of the company's servants. Three chief factors and two chief traders are allowed to leave the country annually for one year. A chief factor or a chief trader, after wintering three years in the service of the company, may retire and hold his full share of profits for, one year after retiring, and half of the share for the four ensuing years if he win- ters for five years, then half for six years. ■ 342 PRICES OP FURS, CHARGES— PROFITS AND LOSSES. Three chief factors, or two chief factora and two chief traders, are allowed to retire annually according to rotation. The repre- sentatives of a chief factor or chief trader, who may die after having wintered five years, receive all the hcnefit to which the deceased himself would have been entitled had he lived; and la like proportions for less duration of service. The accounts are kept with great accuracy, the business conducted with punctuality, and the whole machinery of the company is worked with order and economy, under the watchful care of a governor and committee in London. Sales are made by public auc- tion of furs or peltry, several times in each year, at the company's premises in London. There is no upset price for the goods : they are sold to the highest bidder. The com- pany has no monopoly, as some suppose, of the importation of furs, &c., into England ; they have to compete with the furs of the United States of America, of Russia, Nor- way, &c., and if other traders can sell lower tha-i the company, the public have, of course, the benefit. Beaver and other skins are now sold at much lower prices than formerly, and the steady supply from the Hudson's Bay ten-itories has materially tended to the reduction of the price of foreign furs and skins, and has made " London xnidoubtedly the most extensive market for furs in the world." [Greenhow's Hist. Oregon, p. 412.] Caprice, fashion, changes in trade, or in the use of the difl'ercnt articles for manufac- ture, materially influences the price of goods; thus, for instance, the introduction of silk hats has much reduced the price of heaver skins and other furs. The fall in the price of all skins has been very great, but as beaver constitutes the largest item in value, the reduction of profit to the company will be seen by a comparison with the prices and amoiint of sales. Price of beaver skin, in 1839, 27s. Grf.; in 1816, 3«. 5rf.; number of skins sold in 1830, 55,486; in 1846, 15,389; sale proceeds in 1830, £76,312; in 1846, £7,856. There is also great variety in the prices of articles of similar denomination. At the sales on 30th August 1818, two lots i if otter, 66 in the lot, sold for 33s. ; another lot, with 72 in it, sold only for £\ \\s. Fisher skins varied from 26*. 3d. to 'As. each ; bear skins, 45». to 12», ; martens, 14*. 8rf. to 3*. Id.; silver fox from £7 to 2s. per skin. But the Hudson's Bay Company are obliged to pay the same pric« to the Indians for all skins, according to tariff; whether the skins be good or had, the company must buy them. By the timi- these skins are conveyed from the interior to the coast, warehoused, and shipped, their cost is greatly enhanced, irrespective of loss by damage, interest of money, insur- ances, &c. The profits of the shareholders are not therefore to he estimated by the dif- ference in price between the cost of a skin at one of the company's forts in the interior, and its sale price in London. There ore the heavy charges of different forts in the north- west territories — the losses by non-fulfil- ment of contracts (for the Indians, like the Eastern nations, almost invariably require advances, and always endeavour to be in debt to the Company) — ^the deficiency of skins or furs in scarce seasons — and the reduction in price at home — the long period for which the company lose interest on their outlay, from the time of the transmission of their goods from London, to the re-paymont of the same in five, six, or sometimes seven years, by the fur sales in London, as the company always keep one year's stock of goods on hand in their territories; the expense of obtaining and transmitting food is often a heavy item, for at many of the company's forts, the poor Indians would perish during unusually inclement winters, when the buffalo and deer flee from the wind-swept plains to the shelter of the woods. Whatever be the profits, after paying the whole expenses at home and abroad, they are divided, according to the provisions of the Deed-Poll just quoted, into fifths; of which three go to the proprietary, and two among the chief factors and chief traders of the company, instead of salaries. Con- siderable expenditure is necessary to try new districts, which sometimes, however origi- nally promising, are ultimately found not to answer, and the establishments have to be withdrawn at a loss. The expenses incident to the Red River settlement are also a drain. The annual dividend is now about six per cent. The Hudson's Bay Company have now about 136 establishments, besides hunting expeditions and shipping, aftbrdiiig employ- ment to 25 chief factors, 27 chief traders, 152 clerks, 1,200 regular servants, besides occasional labour in boating and other ser- vices ■ of a great number of the natives ; a steam vessel and five sailing vessels of 100 to 300 tons, all armed. Their forts or stock- aded positions extend from the coast of BOUNDARIES OF BRITISH AMERICA AND UNITED STATES. 343 Labrador, westward to the Pacific, and from the northern boundaries of Canada to the confines of the Arctic Ocean. Several mcdi- ca' officers are maintained for different forts, and at every large trading establishment; thgre is in fact an " Indian hospital" from which the natives derive the greatest benefit, as they resort thither in great numbers when suffering from age, infirmities, or other causes. Ministers of the Gospel of every denomination are protected and encouraged by the company, and a bishop of the church of England has been recently nominated for the newly created diocese of Rupert's Land. Phyncal Aspect, Forts, and Stations. — It is difficult to convey an idea of the aspect of the vast territory belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, or of that included in their trading licence. A^ large portion of the country east of the Rocky Mountains consists of inland seas, bays, lakes, rivers, swamps, treeless hills and hollows, " tossed together in a wave-like form, as if the ocean had been suddenly petrified while heaving its huge billows in a tumultuous swell." — Simpson's Life and Travels. Beginning with the coast of Labrador, the prevailing features from 50° to 60° N. lat., and from 56° to 78° W. long., are, so far as we know, rocks, lakes, swamps, and moun- tains. From the coast of Labrador, a ridge of table land runs nearly south-west to the source of the Ottawa river, and divides the waters which flow into the River and Gulf • The following is the second article of the treaty of 9th August, 1842, defining the boundaries between the United States and Canada : — " Article II. — It is moreover agreed, that from the place where the joint commissioners terminated their labours under the sixth article of the treaty of Ghent, to wit, at a point in the Ncebish Channel, near Muddy Lake, the line shall run into and along the ship channel between St. Joseph's and St. Tammany Islands, to the division of the channel at or near the head of St. Joseph's island i thence turning eastwordly and northwardly around the lower end of St. George's or Sugar Island, and following the middle of the channel which divides St. George's from St. Joseph's Island ; thence up the east Neebish Channel nearest to St. George's Island, through the middle of Lake George i tliunce west of Jonas Island into St. Mary's Uiver, to a point in the middle of that river about one mile above St. George's or Sugar Island, so as to appropriate and assign the said island to the United States ; thence adopting the line traced on the maps by the commissioners, through the River St. Mary and Lake Superior, to a point north of He Royale in said lake, 100 yards to the north aiid east of He Chapeau, which lastrmentioned island lies near the north-eastern point of He Uoyale, where the line marked by the commissioners termi- Dittes i and from thn lost-mentioned point south-westerly of St. Lawrence, from those which flow into Hudson's Bay ; it may be considered the south-eastern boundary of the Hudson's Bay Company's territories. From the Ot- tawa this ridge (table land, or division of waters,) takes a generally west direction till it reaches the Rocky Mountains, in about 115° W. long., separating the waters of Rainy Lake River, Red River, and the Saskatchewan, which have their embouche in Hudson's Bay, from the Mississippi and Missouri, which flow into the Gulf of Mexico. This very slightly elevated feature was for- merly considered to represent the boundary between the Hudson's Bay Company and the United States, to the westward of the source of Rainy Ijake River. The treaty of 1818, defined Rainy Lake River, the Lake of the Woods, and the 49th parallel of lati- tude as far west as Rocky Mountains, as the boundaiy ; and by the recent treaty, 15th June, 1846, the 49th parallel of latitude has been continued as the boundary west of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean.* The Rocky Mountains have their northern extremity in the Arctic Ocean, lat. 7QP N. long. 140° W., and run nearly S.S.E., parallel with the west coast, forming the eastern boundary of the Oregon region, sending off, at different places, spurs and buttresses, and dividing the waters that flow into the Atlantic from those that flow into the Pacific. At Mount Browne, 16,000, and Mount Hooker, 15,700 feet high, in lat, 52° 30' N., through the middle of the sound between He Royale and the north-western mainland, to the mouth of Pigeon River, and \iu the said river to and through the north and south Fowl Lakes, to the lakes of the height of land between Lake Superior and the Lake of the woods ; thence along the water-communication to Lake Saisaginaga and through that lake j thence to and through Cypress Lake, Lac du Bois Blanc, Lac la Croix, Little Vermillion Lake, and Lake Namecan, and through the several smaller lakes, straits, or streams connecting the lakes here mentioned, to that point in Lac la Pluie, or Rainy Lake, at the Chaudiere Falls, from which the commissioners traced the line to the most north-western point of the Lake of the Woods ; thenre along the said line to the said most north-westorn point, being in lat. 49' 23' 65" N., and in long. 96' 14' 38" W., from the observatory at Greenwich ; thence, according to existing treaties, due south to its intersection with the 49th parallel of north latitude, and along that parallel to the Rocky Mountains. It being understood that all the water- communications, and all the usual portages along the line from Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods, and also Grand Portage from the shore of Lake Superior to the Pigeon River, as now actually used, shall be free and open to the use of the subjects and citizens of both countries." "W 344 ASPECT OF COUNTRY BOUND HUDSON'S BAY. two of the loftiest peaks of the "Rocky Mountains," a dividing range of moderate hills runs to the north-east, from whence flows some of the branches of the Saskatche- wan, Churchill, or English River, Deer Lake, Winnipeg Lake, and those streams which feed Wollaston Lake, Athabasca Lake, Slave Lake, and also several other lakes. It is, however, difficult to say what waters flow towards Hudson's Bay, or towards the Arctic Sea, as several of the lakes have different outlets, and each lake communicates with another, — the Great Slave Lake, with Lake Athabasca; Lake Athabasca, with Wollas- ton and Deer Lakes, the latter descending by Churchill River into Hudson's Bay. For instance, the Oungigan or River of Peace descends from a ridge of the Rocky ISIoun- tains towards Lake Athabasca, or the Lake of the Mountains ; when high it flows into the lake, but when low it receives the lake waters, and flows towards the Great Slave Lake, under the name of the Slave River. Winnipeg, Wiunipegos, and Manitoba Lakes, receive the waters of the Saskatchewan, As- siniboine, and Red River, and communicate with Hudson's Bay by the Nelson, and other rivers and conduits. Mackenzie River runs northerly in its shallow course from the Rocky ilouutains to the Arctic Ocean, in lat. 69° N., long. 133° W., but communicates in its progress with the Great Bear and Great Slave Ijakes ; ex- cepting this, and also the Copper Mine and Back's Rivers, the course of all the other rivers and lakes of North-West America, east of the Rocky Moun^'ains, would appear to be to the eastward, towards which the whole country dips. Viewing, therefore, the whole of the ter- ritories between the Rocky Mountains and Hudson's Bay, north of the 4!)th parallel, as one region, it may be considered as a scries of lakes, rivers, and jilains, with a ^nadual elevation from east to west. The northern territory, which was very imperfectly ex- plored imtil the recent journeys of Dease, Simpson, and Rae, from 1837 to 1847, is intersected with lakes, marshes, aiid rivers to a greater extent than any part of the known globe; and it would se2m as if the inner springs of the earth there burst forth. Some parts investigated are truly regions of desolation : vegetation ceases in the lati- tude of 60° north : — no land is seen capable of cultivation ; the whole surface is rugged and uneven, and the open valleys nearly devoid of all vegetable productions. The soil at Churchill Fort (one of the Hudson's Bay Company's stations, in lat. 59° N.) on the shores of the bay, is extremely barren, rocky, dry, and withoiit wood for several miles inland; a few garden vegetables are with difficulty reared. At York Fort, in lat. 57° 2', long. 93° W., the soil is low and marshy, and equally unproductive; and, though the trees are larger than those inland of Fort Churchill, they are still knotty and dwarfish. The country ai'ound the faetoiy, although elevated above the river, is one CHtire swamp, covered with low stunted pine, and perfectly impenetrable, even in July, when it is infested by clouds of mos- quitoes. The land seems to have been thrown up by the sea, and is never thawed during the hottest summer, with the ther- mometer at 90° to 100° in the shade, more than 10 or 13 inches, and then the soil is of the consistence of clammy mud ; even in the centre of the factory it is necessary to keep on the platforms to avoid sinking over the ankles. About Albany Fort, in 52° N., and Moose Fort in 51° 28', the cUmate is more temperate, the soil better, and potatoes and garden produce are reared, but with dif- ficiUty. Proceeding farther west, the tem- perature improves, but all around Hudson's Bay, particularly at Fort Churchill, the climate is extremely severe; and from the middle of October to the middle of May, the country is buried under snow. The ice does not break up generally until July, and at York Fort, two degrees south of Churchill, the thermometer in January has been at 50° below zero. Even in rooms at the fac- tory, where a fire is perpetually kept up, brandy freezes into a solid substance: the rivers and lakes, 10 to 12 feet deep, are frozen to the bottom, and the Hudson's Bay Company's European servants are obliged to observe the greatest caution against the effects of the cold air, which is frequently filled with small particles of angular ice, and when driven by the ^vind against the face or hands, raises the skin iu white blisters, which break out in thin watery issues. As soon as a room is thoroughly heated, and the embers burnt down, the top of the chimney is closed so as to exclude the air, yet the walls of the apartment are found covered witii ice two to three inches thick. In the Quarterly Review, No. xlix. vol xxv., 1821, Sir John Barrow thus adverts to a similar occurrence on board Captain Parry's ships, Hecla and Griper : — " Tht month of March set in mildly (at their retreat in Winter EXTREME SEVERITY OP THE ARCTIC CLIMATE. 345 Harbour) so that the solid icn, which for some time had lined the ship's sides, began to melt. It therefore became necessary to scrape off this coating of ice, on which oc- casion Captain Parry observes — " It will, perhaps, be scarcely credited, that we this day (8th March) removed above one hun- dred buckets full, each containing from five to six gallons, being the accumulation which had taken place in an interval of less than four weeks ; and this immense quantity was the produce chiefly of the men's breath and of the steam of their victuals during meals." The Europeans in the service of the Hud- son's Bay Company, notwithstanding their precautions, and the use of a large quantity of woollens and furs, are frequently frost- bitten, and many of the natives fall victims to the severity of the climate. The sun is often obscured for weeks by thick fogs, caused by clouds of watery vapour ascend- ing from the sea, which, being condensed by cold, hang all around the coast, and extend inland to a considerable distance. The " mock suns" and moons, called Parahelia and Paraselene, appear very frequently in the coldest months. The temperature of the air is subject to the most capricious varia- tions ; rain sometimes falls abundantly with a serene sky, or the sun will burst forth in the midst of the heaviest showers. Such is the region in which several of the Hudson's Bay Company's establishments are situated, and which could not be maintained but for the possession of some more temperate re- gions, from whence food is procurable. Hudson's Bay, discovered by John Hud- son in 1610, is about 900 miles in length, by 600 at its greatest breadth, with a sur- rounding coast of 3,000 miles, between the parallels of 51° and 65° N. lat. The coasts are generally high, rocky, rugged, and some- times precipitous. The bay is na%'igable for a few months in summer, but for the greater pai't of the remainder of the year is filled up with fields of ice. The navigation, when open, is extremely dangerous, as it contains many shoals, rocks, sand banks, and islands ; even during the summer icebergs are seen in the straits towards which a ship is drifted by a squall or current, rendering it very liazardous for the most skilful seamen. The transitions of the thermometer in summer are from 100° to 40° in two days, and the torrents of rain are surprising: whether in winter or summer, the climate is horrible ; tlie range of the thermometer throughout the year is 110°. The sea is entered by VOL. I. Hudson's strait, which is about 500 miles long, with a varying breadth, and with an intricate navigation through several islands, viz. : Charles, Salisbury, Nottingham, Mans- field, and Southampton. The principal bays and inlets in this great inland sea, are, James's Bay, in the south-east, which is 240 miles deep by 140 wide ; Button's Bay, and Port Nelson, on the western coast j Chesterfield Inlet on the north-west, which, after stretching far into the interior, termi- nates in a fresh water lake ; Roe's Welcome, a deep strait on the north coast, and also Repulse Bay. We may now examine the country between Hudson's Bay and the Rocky Mountains, commencing with the lakes and rivers. The Great Bear Lake, the most northerly, is 150 miles in diameter, and communicates by Lake Martin with the Great Slave Lake, which is estimated at 260 miles from E. to W., and 30 from N. to S. Captain Back considers it as large as Lake Michigan ; its soundings are from 40 to 60 fathoms. The north side of the lake is an entire jumble of rocks and hills ; the south is level, not a hill or stone to be found. The Great Slave River joins this lake to that of Athabasca, which is 180 miles long and 15 broad — receives the'lPeace, Athabasca, and Stone rivers; the latter river forms the channel which conveys a portion of the waters of the WoUaston Lake (situated on tabic land) into Athabasca Lake; another portion of the waters of WoUaston Lake flows in a con- trary direction through Deer Lake and River irtto the Missinnippi, Churchill, or English River, which forms several smaller lakes, and finally disembogues into Hudson's Bay, at Fort Churchill, in lat. 55° 45' N., long. 94° 25' W. Lake AVinnipcg, in lat. 50° 20' to 53° 4o N., is 210 miles long, and from 5 to 50 broad. It receives the river Saskatchewan, as it flows from the Rocky Mountains and northern ridge; also the Red and Assini- boine rivers, and discharges itself into Hud- son's Bay by the Nelson and other rivers. Winnipegos and Manitoba are branch or tributary lakes to Winnipeg. That the trend of the land, and the dip, is towards Hudson's Bay and the eastward, is evident from the course of the Red River, which rises in about the parallel of 46"; flows to the northward across the American boundary parallel of 49° ; joins the Assini- boine, or Nadawosis River, at Fort Garn', in 50° N. lat., and then disembogues into 2 Y 346 LAKES, RIVERS, AND FORTS— HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORIES. the south-western part of Lake Winnipeg, which, as before stated, discharges into Hud- son's Bay. The Moose River, which flows from the dividing ridge of highlands, which separates the Hudson's Bay territories from Canada, runs for 230 miles in a north-east direction, and has its embouche in James's Bay, lat. 51° 10" N., long. 81° W. The country between the sources of the Assiniboine, in 51° 15' N., and the Red River, is almost a continued plain, the soil of sand and gravel, with a slight intermixture of earth, which produces a short grass ; but trees are rare. The country around the southern part of Lake Winnipeg is well wooded and watered, and abounds at seasons with herds of buftalo and deer ; so also con- tiguous to the Winnipegos Lake and Swan River, and along the route from Carlton to Isle h la Crosse Forts in the 55th parallel. The northern part of Lake Winnipeg is com- posed of banks of naked black and grey rock. Farther north, occasionally greener spots are to be met with ; some of the islands in the Great Slave Lake are clothed with tall poplars, birch, and pines, and well stocked with deer. Near the portage La Loehe is a precipice upwards of 100 feet ibove the plain, from whence, according to Mackenzie, there is a "ravishing prospect:" — the Swan (Pelican, or Clear Water) River meanders for thirty miles through a valley about three miles in breadth, confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a delightfiil intermixture of wood and lawn. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by verdant promon- tories, where the elk and buftalo enjoy deli- cious pasturage. The route from the Red River settlement (Fort Garry) to Fort Chipewyan, on Lake Athabasca, was traversed in December, 1836, by Mr. Thomas Simpson, by the following stages, in a very short space of time : — Miles. Days. Fort Garry (Red River) to Fort Pelly . 394 in 15 Fort Pelly to Fort Carlton , . . . 2T6 „ 12 Carlton to Isle a la Crosse .... 236 „ 7 Isle 4 la Crosse to Fort Chipewyan . 371 „ 12 Total 1277 in 46 These, and other forts and stptions, are necessarily wide apart, and in situations favourable to ater communications, and to procuring an nal, or, if possible, vegetable food. The aspect of the country in which these forts are constructed, I have gathered from the observations of Mr. Simpson. — Fort Garry, the principal station of the Red River Settlement, is situated at the forks of the Red and Assiniboine rivers, about fifty miles from Lake Winnipeg, and is environed by plains ; proceeding north-west the coun- try is studded with a few copses of poplar and dwarf oak; but the greater part having been swept in 1835 by the running fires (so frequent and terrible in the prairies), presented a blackened and dismal aspect. There were a number of small natural mounds on which lay fragments of lime- stone, the great basis of the plain region, and quantities of little shells were strewn about in every direction. The soil and climate about Manitoba, or "Evil Spirit" Lake, is similar to that of the Red River. At Winnipegos Lake the oak region terminates; but the shores are clothed with elm, poplar, and a few ash, birch, and pine-trees. The water in this lake is brackish in summer. At Duck Bay the first wood of pines was seen. The route from thence to Fort Pelly, south-west, lies through swampy meadows, alternating with woods of poplar, fringed with willow, and a few straggling clumps of pine in the neigh- boiu"hood of the Swan River and Duck Mountain, with its "rude and impassible heights." Thence west to north lie the Porcupine Hills, wooded to the very summit. Thunder Hills are about two miles in breadth, steep; and beyond them to the northward is Fort Pelly, in 51° 45' 20" N. lat.— 102° 5' W., near the bank of the Assiniboine River. The track thence to Fort Carlton, lies through gently undula- ting eminences along the woodad banks of the tortuous Assiniboine, thence due west, leaving the Assiniboine far to the sou'.!:, over a hillocky country, tolerably wooded, and abounding in small lakes and swamps to the west end of Stoncy Lake, through a country consisting of narrow plains, studded with clumps of poplar, interspersed with little lakes and swamps ; a great part of this district had been recently overrun by fire. Changing the course from west to west- south-west, the traveller reaches the im- mense prairies of the Saskatchewan River, of which entire tracts are frequently bared by fire to the very soil. The cold in these plains in winter, with the wind from the westward, is terrific ; there is not a shrub or even a blade of grass to break the force of the blast, whose temperature is at least 40° below zero. The only exposed part of the traveller, the eye-lashes, becomes speedily COUNTRY NORTH-WEST OF THE RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. 347 ' coverp.d with a heavy crop of icicles, which the half-frozen fingers have a diificulty in removing. These plains are frequented in summer by the Inclians as hunting grounds, although the fierce heat is then little more endurable than the cold in winter. Throughout this country, says Sir George Simpson, everything is in unparalleled extremes. Cold and excessive heat, — long droughts balanced by drenching rain and destructive hail (sometimes 6i inches in cir- cumference). At one period both whites and natives are living in wasteful abundance on venison, buffalo, fish, and game — at others reduced to the last degree of hunger, often passing several days without food. In 1820, when wintering at Athabasca Lake, Sir George Simpson says, he was for three days and nights without a morsel of food. Frequently hundreds of fine buffaloes are killed for the tongues alone. On one occa- sion Sir G. Simpson saw several thousand buffaloes putrifying the air for miles around. Unsheltered plains extend far to the south, to the ridges in lat. 49°, whence the Mis- souri descends. One of the prairies of the Saskatchewan crossed by Mr. Simpson, was fourteen miles wide, and only a few willows were thinly scattered on its surface. The country south of the Saskatchewan towards Assiniboine, has in various places lakes as salt as the Atlantic Ocean. As this region, which extends to the Rocky Mountains, has been erroneously considered adapted for European colonization, the following extract from Mr. Thomas Simpson's Journal may help to dispel the illusion. " Christmas Day, Sunday, the 25th : On shaking off our slumbers this glad morning, a troop of wolves were ' baying the moon,' as she rode in a cloudless sky. The country before us being intricate, we could not start till day- light; and when we sallied forth on our day's march, the weather had moderated. About two miles from our resting-place, we passed over a round hill, and stood awhile on its summit to enjoy the boundless pros- pect. From west to south stretched a vast plain, separated from another, of which we had a bird's-eye ghmpse to the north-east, by the broad belt of woods which we had been skirting along ; while before us, in our line of march, lay outspread a seemingly endless tract of open underwood, varied by gently swelling eminences. For seven miles our route led west-north-west, through thickets and over hillocks ; it then changed to west for fourteen miles, tlu-ough a more open country, consisting of rising grounds, or " cdteaus," with bare ridges, and sides clothed with dwarf poplar and brushwood ; while here and there, in the hollows, we crossed large ponds, scarcely deserving, on this continent, the title of lakes. They have no outlet ; and on cutting through the ice for water, we generally found it putrid: such, however, is its scarcity in that level country, that we were often fain to use it when most nauseous, taking the precaution of imbibing it through snow, which purifies it in some degree. We now turned west- south-west for eight miles, keeping along a broad and rather winding ridge, which ap- peared to furnish the buffalo with a regular road of ingress to the woods. Several tracks of moose-deer were also seen during the day. After sunset, we took up our quarters in a small clump of poplars. The whole country having been ravaged by fire, we could not find dry grass, as usual, for our beds, and spread our Christmas couch on willow branches ; rough indeed, but ren- dered smooth to us by health and exercise." Several of the Hudson's Bay Company's forts are situated in the country N. W. of the Red River. Fort Pel/y is a compact, well-ordered post on the route from Fort Garry, on the Red River, to Fort Carlton. It is sheltered on the north by a range of woods, and has the Assiniboine River in front; the cold in December is terrific, sometimes — 44°, equal to 76 degrees of frost. Carlton Fort is situated on the south side of the Saskatchewan Ri^^r, and is defended by high palisades, and a gallery surrounding the whole square, planted with wall pieces, into which, however, the Indians fired several times during the summer of 1835. Provisions were unusually scarce, when vis- ited hy Mr. T. Simpson in 1830, the great fires in autumn having driven the buffalo to a distance. The route to Fort La Crosse lay first through an open country consisting of low, round, grassy hills, interspersed with clumps of poplar, occasionally of pines, and w'th many small lakes to the boundary of the pine forest, ii;i lat. 53° 30' nortli ; thence hills, lakes, lakelets and brooks, to a hilly tract of fourteen miles in extent, which divides the waters that flow towards the Saskatchewan and ChurchhiU Rivers. From Green Lake to Beaver River is swampy and wooded ; and thence to Long Lake chain are pine woods. Fort La Crosse, in 107° 5 1' 30" W. on the border of the lake, is neat and compact ; the country around low 348 POPULATION AND GOVERNMENT OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. and swampy. At the portage La Loche, north of Fort Crosse, the hills are a thou- sand feet in height, steep, and command a fine view of the Clear water River, and its picturesque valley ; thence to the confluence with the Athahasca River, whose broad bosom is studded with numerous islands that give it a lake-like appearance. At Fort Chipe^vyan, lat. 58° 43' 38" N., long. 111° 18' 32" W., the surface consists of rocks and swamps, and the climate pre- cludes all prospect of rearing farm produce; even potatoes have to be brought down from Fish River ; and when the coarse grass, cut in the swamps for the use of the few horses and oxen required for drawing fire-wood to the fort, fails, fish from the \chaba8ca river is the only provender obtainable for the cattle. Fort Edmonton is situated on the northern branch of the Saskatchewan River, in lat. 53° 45' N. long. 113° 10' W., and was visited by Sir G. Simpson in his pro- gress from the Red River to the Columbia and Fort Vancouver. The fort is of an hexagonal form, well built, with high pickets and bastions, and battlemented gateways ; it is on an almost perpendicular height com- manding the river. The fort is painted in- side and out with devices to suit the taste of the savages who frequent it. Over the gate- ways are a fantastic pair of vanes, and the ceilings and walls of the hall present gaudy colours and fantastic sculptures, which the Indians admire. The buildings are smeared with red earth j the savages are awed by so inuch finery, and respect what appears to them grand structures. The settlement on the Red River, distant from Montreal, by the Ottawa River, about 1,800 miles, in lat. 50° N., long. 97° "W., is elevated 800 feet above the sea, in a level country, contiguous to the wooded borders of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers, along which the settlement extends for fifty miles. The soil is comparatively fertile, and the climate salubrious, but summer frosts gene- rated by undrained marshes, sometimes blast the hopes of the husbandman. The Hudson's Bay Company, by the introduc- tion, at a great expense, of rams and other stock, have improved the breed of domestic animals, which are now abundant : wheat, barley, oats, maize, potatoes, and hops thrive ; flax and hemp are poor and stimted. The river banks are cultivated for half a mile inland, but the back level country remains in its natiu'al state, and furnishes a coarse hay for the settlers' stock during the long and severe winter, which lasts from Novem- ber to April, or May, when Lake Winnipeg is unfrozen, and the river navigation to Hud- son's Bay commences, vid Norway House entrepdt, at the northern extremity of tlie lake. The population is in number about, 8,000, consisting of Europeans, half-breeds, and Indians. The two principal churches, the protestant and Roman catholic, the gaol, the Hudson's Bay Company's chief build- ings, the residence of the Roman catlio- lic bishop, and the houses of some retired officers of the fur trade, are built of stoue, which has to be brought from a distance ; but the houses of the settlers are built of wood, whitewashed or painted externally. Land is granted to the settlers at 7s. Gd. per acre ; there is no restriction but in the purchase or sale of fm-s and spirits, and only a slight import duty is imposed on other commodities, the proceeds of which duty arc received by the municipaUty of Assiniboine. The colony is governed by a corporation called the CouncU of Assiniboia, which, in virtue of the Royal Charter of 1G70, exer- cises judicial as well as legislative authority, under an able Recorder. The currency is one of the best established in any colony. It consists, with the addition of silver and copper coin, of notes issued by the Hudson's Bay Company, which are payable at York factory, by bills on the company in England. This circulation is absolutely essential; gold or silver would soon be hoarded, melted, or lost; and a note issued by the government of the place, re- ceivable in payments, of acknowledged ex- changeable value, devoid of fluctuation in exchanges, and convertible, without loss or risk, into cash in England, is an advan- tageous monetary circulation for any settle- ment, and not a grievance or subject of complaint. Commodities to the full value of the notes can always be obtained at New York, Montreal, &c. The population of the Red River settle- ment, in 1843, was 5,1 13, of which number, 2,798 are Roman catholics, and 2,345 are Protestants. The heads of families are 870 ; of whom 571 arc Indians or half-breeds, natives of the territory; 152 Canadians; 61 Orkneymen ; 49 Scotchmen ; 22 English- men; 5 Irishmen; and 2 Swiss. Wales, Italy, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Poland, and the United States of America, have each contributed one to the list. There is ilso BISHOP OF MONTREAL AND RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. 349 one Esquimaux Indian. There are 730 dwelling-houses, 1,219 bams or stables, 18 windmills, and 1 water-mill. There are 182 horses, 749 mares, 107 bulls, 2,207 cows, 1,580 calves, 1,976 pigs, and 3,569 sheep. The Bishop of Montreal says of the Red River settlement, that " it affords a wonder- fully striking example of good brought by the hand of God out of evil." His lordship thus describes the churches there : — "Along the strip of settlement which occupies, with interruptions, the opposite sides of the river, the four English churches are situated. The Indian church is about 13 miles below the lower church at the rapids; this again is about 6 from the middle church ; and the middle church about 7 from the upper. The Indian church is a wooden building, painted white, 50 feet or upwards in length, with a cupola over the entrance. It has square- topped windows, which, so far, give it an un- ecclesiastical appearance. The lower church is >vlso of wood, and of the length of 50 feet. The middle church, which is not quite com- pleted, and which has been built by the unaided exertions of the congregration, is an edifice of stone, 60 feet long. The upper church, which is also of stone, is 10 feet longer, and will accommodate 500 persons." There are scattered about the Red River settlement several respectable retired factors or traders' of the company; some married to European, more to native wives. Although the style of the establishments at the forts is exceedingly plain, and the extreme diffi- culty of transport, as well as the isolated character and remote situation of the place itself, cause a variety of articles to be dis- pensed with to which some of the inmates have been elsewhere accustomed, yet there is far from a deficiency to be witnessed there, either of comforts or of habits of refinement. Its communications with Eng- land — are for goods via Hudson's Bay — during the summer season, and for personal travelling and letters, via Montreal, from which the Red River is distant 1,800 miles. The company have, along this line, about 10 stockaded posts. The Bishop of Mon- treal traversed the distance in 38 days. We may now proceed to examine the Pacific coast and the Rocky Mountains, whose highest ridges are in the parallels of 52° to 53°, about 8,500 feet. Some peaks rise to 15,000 and 16,000 feet, but the gene- ral range is 4,000 to 6,000 feet, diminishing in height towards the north. This granitic mountain chain is from 50 to 100 miles wide. The country termed New Caledonia, between the Rocky Mountains and Cascade Moun- tains, near the coast of the Pacific, is well watered, undulating in bold swells, with occasional plains and copses, and an abun- dance of forest trees, of which the cedar, fir, and hemlock, grow to a prodigious size. In New Caledonia, the Hudson's Bay Company have several stations, and also in the adjacent country. Fort Alexandria, in 52° 30' N., is the residence of one of the company's chief traders, and here the navi- gation of Frazer's River is begun by the northern brigade on their way to the north. A small open space is cleared for a few cattle, but the rest of the country is covered with a dense forest. Fort Thompson, on the Kam- loop's River, is in 50° 38' N., and 120° 7' 10" W. Frazer's, Babine's, and McLeod's Forts are on the lakes of the same names. Fort St. James, on Stuart's Lake, was the resi- dence of chief factor Ogden, who had charge of tlie New Caledonia department. Frazer's River flows through New Cale- donia, but is not navigated below Fort Thompson, owing to its dangerous falls. The distances from Fort Thompson to Fort Alex- andria, by land, is 150 miles, and thence to Fort James 120. Commodore Wilkes says that the climate of this region is unfavour- able to agriculture, in consequence of its being situated between the two ranges of mountains, viz., the Rocky Mountains on the east, and the Cascade Mountains (of the coast) on the west, both of which ranges are constantly covered with snow, and in the plains or villages snow lies from November to May six feet deep. The commodore adds, " there are many spots of fertile land along the rivers, but the early frosts are a great obstacle to agriculture. At St. James, Ba- bine, and Frazer's Forts, only potatoes and turnips can be cultivated." frazer's River has its embouche six miles to the north of the 49th parallel, which defines the United States' boundary. It is about a mile wide, the country around low, with a rich alluvial soil. Fort Langley is 20 miles from its mouth. Sir George Simpson made a journpy of 2,000 miles in 47 days from the Red River, via Fort Edmonton, to Fort Colville in 1841. He crossed the Rocky Mountains at the confluence of two of the sources of the Saskatchewan and Colombia, near Fort Kotanie, at an elevation of 8,000 feet above the sea, with mountains rising about half that altitude around. The descending coun- try to the Kotanie River was rugged and 860 THE PACIFIC COAST OF NOETII AMERICA. boggy, with thick and tangled forests, craggy peaks and dreary vales, here and there hills of parched clay, — where every shrub and blade of grass was brown and sapless, — as if newly swept by the blast of the sirocco; with occasional prairies and open swards, interspersed with gloomy woods or burning pine forests. In one place a valley was seen 30 miles long by six wide without a tree, and environed by mountains. The natives of these regions were in a wretched condition. The coast abounds with harbours, inlets, and islands. The north-western Archipelago, which lies north of Vancouver's Island, be- longs partly to England and partly to Rus- sia. The islands within the British aominions are of various sizes; the largest, named " Queen Charlotte's Island," is somewhat of a triangular form, lying nearly north and south, the south point in the parallel of 52°. The superficial area is less than that of Van- couver's Island : it has several good har- bours, viz., on the north coast. Port Estrada, near Sandy Point, and Croft's Sound, a little farther west. On the east side, Skitekis, in 53° 20' N. lat. ; Cummashawa, near 53° N.; and Port Sturges, farther south. On the west, or Pacific coast, Magee's Sound, in 52° r N. lat. ; and Port Ingram, icp.r the north-west extremity of the isla...4. The country around some c" these harbours, especially Port Estrada (Hancock's River), and Magee's Sound, is said by the Americans to be fertile, and the climate comparatively mild. Queen Charlotte's island is admirably adapted for the formation of a penal settle- ment, by its distance from England, its com- plete insularity, adaptation for the support of a large convict settlement by the labour of the prisoners, the impossibility of escape, the improbability of the transported being ever enabled to return to England, and by the useful purposes in which the convicts may be employed in the formation of a for- tress and a colony in the Northern Pacific, contiguous to China and Japan. The Princess Royal Islands lie nearer to the main land, between the parallels of 51° and 54° N. lat. Of the interior of the whole of these islands, little or nothing is known ; the largest are traversed by mountain ridges in the direction of their greatest length from south-east to north-west. The adjacent coast is of very irregular outline, with numerous bays, inlets, and winding channels, forming a labyrinth of passages. Simpson's River, on our north-west boundary, has a deep inlet, and communicates with Babine Lake, where the Hudson's Bay Company have a fort. The Company have also an establishment on Pitt's Islands, in the north-western Archi- pclugo. The north-west coast and interior, north of the parallel of 55°, is described as ex- tremely rugged ; lofty mountains, covered with snow, rise abruptly from the ocean; more inland, the whole region consists of Alpine masses, thrown together in the wildest confusion, so that a level site for a fort can hardly be found within any convenient dis- tance from a stream or lake. It is a land of rocks, as difficult of access as it is impracti- cable in itself, except at the very margin of the sea. Most of the streams to the north of Frazer's River, are mere torrents fed by melting snow in summer, and in winter by tlie unceasing deluges of this dismal cli- mate J these streams form deep valleys in the precipitous heights of every form and mag- nitude in their progress to the ocean. Hence the term "Cascade Mountains," given to the coast line north of Vancouver's Island. The company hold under lease from Russia, a fort on the Stikine or Pelly's River, where the climate and country are alike miserable in the extreme, and their efiects are in- creased by the putridity and filth of the adjacent Indian village. At this fort, in April 1842, the gentleman in charge was shot in a scuffle, and 2,000 savages encamped around were preparing to rifle the fort, when, fortunately. Sir G. Simpson arrived in a Russian steamer. Taco Fort, imder Dr. Kennedy, an assistant, and 22 men, is still farther northward on the coast, surrounded by 4,000 savages, warlike and ferocious,TvlK) at first captured Dr. Kennedy and his as- sistant, and required for their ransom four blankets. The fort is now strong. Fort M'Loughlin, on the north-west coast, near Milbank Sound, was formed in 1837, on one of the most rugged spots imaginable. By great and unwearied exertions for several years in blasting, levelling, and gravelling, the company's officers have made a strong fort on a rock capable of holding out with 20 men, against all the Indians of the coast. An enclosed surface of three acres has been covered with sea-weed and made into a gar- den, producing potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbages, &c. It is probable that on the north-west coasts adjoining to Vancouver's Island, and Queen Charlotte's Island, many spots available for European colonization will be found. The climate on the coast of POSITIONS OP THE HUDSON'S BAY COIMPANY FORTS. ,^51 the Pacific is much milder than similar lati- tudes on the Atlantic or opposite shores of the American continent. Some of the principal forts belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, are : — 1. York Fort — The most important sta- tion of the Hudson's Bay Company has con- trol over the extensive region west and north of Hudson's Bay, hounded by the Arctic Ocean, the Rocky Mountains, and a line drawn from the bay through Rainy lake. Among the posts dependent on York fort, are, those of forts Churchill and Severn, and the forts or houses on the different lakes — viz. Trout, Beaver, Cat, Swampy, Split, Nelson, Deer, La Rouge, and La Crosse. Tiiere are also Rock-house on Hill river, and Oxford house. Holy lake. On the Saskatchewan, arc the forts or stock- aded houses, called Cumberland, Carlton, Manchester, Edmonton, Acton, or Rocky Mountain. On Lake Athabasca are forts Chipcwyan, Wcdderburn, and Fond du lac ; on the Mackenzie river in its course to the Arctic Ocean, forts Simpson, Norman, and Good Hope ; and on the upper part of the same river, forts Vermillion, Dunnegau, and Rocky Mountain. 2. Moose Factory is about 700 miles from the city of Montreal, in Lower Canada, and is the company's principal depdt on the southern shores of Hudson's Bay. Con- nected with this establishment, there are numerous stations : some of which are at a distance from the Fort, varying from 100 to 250 miles. The forts and stations in the country between Hudson's Bay and the lakes in Canada, are under this superin- tendency. On James's Bay, are, Albany fort, East Mainfort, and Rupert's house. On the river Albany, are, Martin's Fall, and Osnaburg houses ; on the Moose or Bruns- Tvick river, is New Brunswick house, and to the south-east, Frederick house. There are establishments on the small lakes Abbitibbe, Mistasinny, Big, Wagwanappy, and Temis- caming. The Indians, in this district of country, are principally of the Swampy Cree tribe, with a few Esquimaux at an estabUsh- ment called Big River, which is about 250 miles to the north-eaut of Rupert's River. 3. Michipicoten is the principal factory belonging to the company on the shores of Lake Superior; within and around which, and the dift'erent establishments in that ex- tensive range of country, there is a conside- rable population of Europeans and half castes, as well as of native Indians, who are chiefly of the Ojibeway or Salteaux . • dians. On the W. shore of Lake Superior is Fort William, and there is a post at the Falls of St. Mary. 4. Lac la Plate is a trading post of the company, situated near the height of land which divides the waters falling into the St. Lawrence from those that fall into Hud- son's Bay, and is distant from Montreal about 1,.300 miles. The neighbourhood of this .place is a great rendezvous for Indians from the surrounding country, during the summer, as the means of living on fish and rice arc very a))undant. 5. Fort Alexander is formed at the outlet of the River Winnipeg, and is distant from Montreal 1,500 miles. It is much fre- quented by the Indians, who, as well as those that visit Lac la Pluie, belong to the Ojibeway or Salteaux tribes. 6. Edmonton is an establishment on the Saekatchewan River, which has its source on the Rocky Alountains, and disembogues itself by Nelson River into Hudson's Bay. It is distant from Montreal 2,800 miles. From thence to the Athabasca River, which also has its origin on the Rocky Mountains, the establishments are frequented by the bold and daring prairie or plain tribes of Indians, including the Assiniboines, the Peiagaus, the Sarcees, and the Blood In- dians. The Thickwood Crees and Assini- boines amount, with the whites and mixed population attached to the station, to be- tween 15 and 20,000 souls. 7. Norway House, one of the principal depots belonging to the company, is situated at the northern end of Lake Winnipeg, and is distant from Montreal 2,000 miles. There is an Indian village connected with this place, the inhabitants of which derive great advantages from the proximity of the com- pany's establishment, where the Indians, who are a part of the Swampy Cree tribe, find permanent employment as fishermen, boatmen, and labourers. Beren's river house and Fort Alexander are also on Lake Winnipeg. At Ungava Bay, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait, there is a station for col- lecting the produce of the coast of Labrador, consisting chiefly of oil from the seal and porpoise j and there are establishments for taking and curing salmon, which is sent to the Quebec market. The Hudson's Bay Company possess a very thriving establishment at Forij Vancouver, in the Oregon country, recently ceded to the United States. 352 INDIAN TRIBES IN HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORIES. Population. — The best approximative estimate of the ] umber of inhabitauts in north-wcateru America is given in an oflicial report of Lieuts. Warrc and Vavasour, as a "Census of the Indian Tribes in the Orcj'on territory from latitude 42° to latitude 54", derived from the trading lists of the Hud- son's Bay Company, and from the best obtainable information : it is dated, " Fort Vancouver, 1845." Name of tho Tribe. Quacott.— Nurette and 27 othora. Tribci ipouking generally the Qua- cott language. Ma^aettei and 13 tribes, not included with tho above, and upeaking dif- ferent languages. Nau Indians, 4 tribes upeoldng tho same langungc. Chymiiyans, 10 tribes, all of whom speak the sanie language, with a different idiom. Skeena Indians, 2 tribes. Labastos Indians, 6 tribes. MilbanV Sound, 9 tribes. Challams. — Cowaitchims, 24 tribes, speaking the Challam and Cowaitz- chim languages. Mew Caledonia Indians — '8 tribes known). Sanetch Indians, 3 trlbei. Hallaras, U tribes. Sinahomiah, 1 tribe. Skatcat, 1 tribe. Cowitchici, 7 tribes. Soke Indians, 1 tribe. Cowitciher, 3 tribes, not as yet ascer- tained .... (say) Gulf of Ocorgia Indiana, exact num- bers not ascertained Nasqually, 13 tribes. Two tribes in CaTletz river (about) Cheenooks, Clatsops, and several tribes near the entrance of the Columhia river. Trile Kolets, several tribes. Vule Puyas, several tribes Clakamus, several tribes. Cheanooks, Kelussuyos, 4 tribes. Killamooks, 3 tribes. Clamets, several tribes. Walla-Walla, Ncz Fcrcc, Snakes, and several tribes. ColviUe and Spokane. Okanogan, several tribes. KuUus-Palus, several tribes. Kootoonais, several tribes. ^Vhere situated. Males, From Lat. 5V to Lat. 50' including Queen Clmrlntto's Islniid: North end of Van- couver's Island, Milbank Sound and Island, and tho main Shore . On Qurcii Charlotte's Island, not included in tho abovo ... Nass river on the main land Chatham Sound, Portland Canal, FortGs- siugton, and tho neighbouring islands . At tho mouth of the Skeena river Gardner's Canal, Canal de Principe, Canal do la Keida Milbank Sound, Caceado Canal, Deane Canal, Salmon river, and tho islands on the coast From lat. fiO'' along the coast south to • ' -■ - Van- rauc's Whitby Island in lut. 48' ; part of cnuver 8 Island and the mouth of Fi M'Lcod's Lake, Chelertins, Fort George, Alexandria in Fraser's river, Conaily Lake, fiabino Lake, Fraser'i Lake, Stuart's Lako Straits of St. Juan do Fuca and Vancou- ver's Islands Ditto . . ditto . . . . Ditto . . ditto . . . . Ditto . . ditto . . . . Ditto . . ditto . . . . Ditto . . ditto . . . . 19,020 3,232 8fi7 1,202 19fi 717 784 3,176 1,265 194 617 208 173 624 39 Cape Flattery (about) Nasqually river and Puget's Sound Mouth of the Columbia river and the Tici- nity Near Fort Vancouver in tho Columbia Valley of tho Williamatu river . Valley of tho Clakamus and the Willa- muta Falls Pillar Kock, Oak Point, The Dallas, The Cascades, Chente river, Takanm river on the Columbia On the sea coast, between the river Colum- bia and the Umqua . . . . Roquas river near the south boundary One of tho South or Snakes branch of the Columbia, extending to near the Kocky Mo\mtains Near Fort CoIviUe on the Columhia On the Okanogan and I'iscour rivers On the Flothettd or Clarke river On M'Gillivray's river, the Flat Bow Lake, &c. . . . . . Total Females. Children under 12 years. 20,216 3,381 746 1,225 120 601 797 3,383 1,160 162 461 118 161 S3b 1,836 \fm Slaves 99 467 230 101 685 12 Total 33,966 35,182 1,684 1,670 12 68 7 r.i 47 2,868 210 182 40,805 6,613 1,615 2,496 322 1,129 9,427 2,626 446 1,486 569 643 1,763 90 300 1,250 4,014 600 429 500 300 200 800 1,600 800 3,000 460 300 300 460 5,146 86,947 *»! Recapitulation. — Males, 33,956; females, 35,182; children, 1,584, of both sexes, under 12 years of age ; slaves, 5,146. Total, 75,868, of whom an accurate census has been made : 11,079, estimate of tribes, of whom no census ha.s been taken; showing a grand total of 86,947 Indian population, from latitude 42° to latitude 54° N. " The Indians of Puget'g Sound ani? ihe Straits ot i De Fuca, also those farther to the north, appear to [ be more numerous than those of the interior, and cul- i tivate large quantities of potatoes, &c. for their own | CHARACTER OP THE INDIAN POPULATION. 868 ITOI Total 570 40,H0fi 6,613 12 1,61 li C8 2,49fi 7 322 lU 1,4129 47 ieis ,868 9,<27 210 3,626 U6 40 1,485 13 669 18 643 , , 1,763 • • 90 300 1,260 182 4,014 • • 600 . . 429 600 • • 300 • • 200 . . 800 1,600 • • 800 3,000 460 , , 300 • . 300 • . 460 ,146 86,947 aae, and to barter with the vcMclit froquentinn the SOOKt. They are not »o cleanly as tlie Indiunn of the prairicA, nor are they no brave or warlike. Many of the hitter tribes are a very fine ruce of men, and possess largo herds of cattle and immense numbers of horses. In the neighbourhood of Wnlln-Wallu, individual Indians were pointed out to us who owned more th.in 1,000 horses. Slavery is common with all the tribes ; and he "Iio possesses most slaves and the largest number of horses, is considered the greatest chief. The Indians of the north are sometimes trou- blesome I but those of the Columbia are a quiet, inof- fensive, but very superstitious race. To this Inst cause may be traced their quarrels with the white man and with one another. They are well armed with rifles, muskets, &e., but, from policy, they are much stinted by the Hudson's Boy Company in ammu- nition. The Indian tribes do not remain upon the same ground during the whole year. In the summer they resort to the principal rivers and the sea coast, where they take and lay by largo ((uantities of salmon, &c. for their winter consumption, retiring to the smaller rivers of the interior during the cold season. Neither the Uoman catholic nor Methodist mission- aries have done much toward.s reclaiming the Indian population, who are an idle, dissolute race, and very few of them can be induced to change their mode of life, or cultivate more than will absolutely keep them from starvation. The total abolition ot the sale of .ntoxicating liquors has done much for the good of tlie whole community, while population as well as Indian; and so long as this abstinence (which can hardly bo called voluntary) continues, the country will prosper. When this prohibition is withdrawn, and tiie intercourse with the world open, such is the character of the dissolute and only partially reformed /.mericun and Canadian settlers, that every evil must be anticipated, and the unfortunate Indian will bu the first to suffer." Tlie Esquimaux occupy the country hordcr- ing on tlic Arctic Seas, Hudson's Bay and Strait, and the Labrador coast. The In- dians roam over the country, in summer fol- lowiug the buffalo, deer, and other wild animals into the districts occupied by the Esquimaux, with whom they are generally in a state of hostility; and as the winter advances, they return towards the more southern regions. A district termed the Saskatchewan, east of the Rocky Moun- tains, as large as England, contains only 16,730 Indians and Half-breeds, viz.: Crees, 3,5i ); Assiniboincs, 4,060; Blackfcet, 2,100; Picgans, 2,450; Blood Indians, 1,750; Sar- cees, 330; Gros- Ventres, 2,100; Salteaux, 1 10 ; Half-breeds (a race whose fathers were Europeans, and mothers Indians), 280. The following is a classilication and distri- bution of the tribes occupying the country ea-st of the Rocky mountains, and resorting upon occasion to the company's establish- ments : — Mackenzie's River District. — The Copper Indians, inhabiting the country about this river ; the Lou- cbeux, or Quarrellers i the Hare Indians j the Dog- VOL. I. rib Indians ; the Strong-bow Indians, inhabiting Miickcnzie's lliver district, and speaking dilferent languages. AthahiiHca ami I»Ih a la Crosne Districti. — The Chipewyans, and a few of the Crce tribe ) inhabiting the country surrounding this lake, and between it and the Isle & la Crosse district. Pi aril Hirer District. — The Heaver Indians, and a few Sauteaux from the Itainy Lake, inhabiting both sidles of this river, and speaking a language ditferent from that of the Chiiicwvans (>f .VtlmbuKca. Vm>or jiart nf the flii.ikiilrlii'iran District. — The niackfect Proper : the Hlood Indians; the I'icgans, the Fall Indians; the Sarcces. All these tribes are generally termed lilackfeet, although they speak dif- ferent languages, und havo difl'erent customs and manners. Linccr part of the Saskatchewan District. — The Stone Indmns, or Assiniboines ; the Crees; the Sau- teux, or Ogibways. These three tribes are constantly at variance with the Blackfeet, and the whole eight depend on the chase for subsistence. They, i. e. the three tribes, extend their habitations also to the upper part of Ucd River and of Swan lliver. lork Factory, Oxford, Norway Jfouse, Cumber Umd, and lower part of Swan Hirer District. — Mis Kee-Oooae, or Swampy Indians. These also extend along the sea-coast to James's Day. They evidently spring from the Crees, as their language is only a dialect of the Cree. There is said to bo a mixture of the Sauteux in their origin. Churchill District. — Esquimaux ; Chipewyans, and a few Swamp Indians, inhabiting the country to the north of Churcljill. The Indians in James's Bay are generally classed with the Mis-kee-gooso, and inhabit the countries about Albany, Moose, and East Main. Character of the Indian Population, — It is difficult to describe the character of the various tribes referred to in the preceding classifications; they havo each some recog- nised diflerence, and arc most of them in a constant state of warfare with each other. The Sarcees are said to be the boldest. All have horses and fire-arms ; and horse-stealing is a fevourite occupation with them. The Crees and Blackfeet have deadly feuds, and each combat with the Assiniboines. The small tribes are drawn into the contests of the larger, and arc rarely at peace. Ambuscades, surprises by day or night, and treacherous massacres of the old and young, of women and the sick, constitute the moving interests of their lives. No hardships or inducements will make them settle and cul- tivate their land ; and until they do so, it is almost hopeless to expect any Christian re- sults from the humane efforts of the Hud- son's Bay Company and the missionaries. The most degrading superstitions prevail ; cunning is employed where force cannot be used in plunder ; lying is systetnatic ; ^vomau is treated as a slave; and the wild Imlian is, in many respects, more savage than the animals around him. 2 z 864 CHRISTIAN CONDUCT AND BENIFICENT POLICY. Christian Cnndiict and Beneficent Policy nf the Hudson't Hay Company. — A ciiriful fxiini- ination of nil aviiilnblt; infoniiatioii, confirms mo in bnliovinjf, that the IludMon'* Bay Com- pany havn well fulfilled the objects for which their charter was {granted in 1070. Without any aid from the crown — without any drain upon the national exchequer — opposed by American, and even Knglish rivalry — sub- ject to plunder and devastation by the fleets and forces of the Frencli and Russian gov- ernments — stru^fflin^ np^ainst an inclement climate, in a sterile soil — shut out from maritime communication with England, ex- cept for a few months in the year — and amidst hosts of wild, warlike, and treach- erous savages, the Hudson's Bay Company have acquired and maintained for England, by a sagacious and pnident policy, by ho- nourable, and, above all, by Christian con- duct, exclusive dominion over that portion of the North American continent which lies between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, north of the 49th degree of latitude, extend- ing over more than three million square mile8~(3,060,000.) But for the Hudson's Bay Company, England would probably have been shut out from the Pacific, for, on the 5th of April, 1814, a convention was signed between the United States and Russia, (to which England was no party,) making the 54th parallel tlie boundary of their respective dominions. The settlements of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Columbia River and in the Oregon region defeated this project. Tlie American geographer and librarian to the United States' government, Mr. Green- how, who ably vindicates the rights and claims of his own country, who is by no means favo\irably disposed to any claims of England on the continent of America, and who, as an American, is little inclined to approve of the conduct of an association whose interests he natui-ally considers op- posed to those of his own countrymen, thus candidly expresses his views in 1844, when referring to the disputed territory of the Oregon, Columbia River, Vancouver's Is- land, &c.: — "The British Ministers could have no counsellors better qualified to advise, or whose interests were more completely identified with those of the govern- ment, than the Hudson's Bay Company, who, repre- senting in all respects the interests of Great Britan in North-West America, has indeed become a powcrftil body. The field of its operation was more than doubled by its union with the north-west company, and by the licence to trade, in exclusion of all other llrilinh subject*, in the countries west of thp Kocky .Mountains, where the fur-lu'iirinj; nnimaU nro more abundant than in any other part of tlie worhlj while the extension of the lurisdiction of the Canada court* over the whole division of the continiut, to wliich its charters apply, and the appointment of Its own ajjenti as magistrates in those regions, gnve all that could have been desired for the enforcement of its regula- tions. The arrangement made with the Uussiun- American Company, through the intervention of the two governmentB, secured to tlio Hudson's Bay Company the most advantageous limits in the north- west j and the position assumed by Cireat Britain, in the discussions with the United Htntes rcHpeoting Oretfon, were calculated to increase the confidence of the body in the strength of its tenure of that sountry, and to encourage greater efforts on its pur to assure that tenure. "The licence granted to the Hudson's Bay Com pany in Wi\, expired in 1842, Init another had been previously conceded, also for twenty-one years, con- taining some new and important provisions. Thus, the company wos bound, under heavy penalties, to enforce the due execution of all criminal processes by the officers and other persons, legally emiiowcred ill all its territories; anu to make and sunmit to the government such rules and regulations for the management of the trade with the fndinns os should be effectual to prevent t>ie sale and distribution of spirituous liquors among them, and to promote their moral and religious improvement. It is, moreover, declared in the grant, that nothing therein contained should authorise the company to claim the right of trade in any part of America, to the prejumce or exclusion of the people of 'amj fareiijn states' who may be entitled to trade there, in virtue of conventions between such states and Great Britain; and the goverment reserves to itself the right to establish within the territories included in the grant any colony or province, to annex any part of those territories to any existing colony or province, and to apply to such Sortion any form of civil government winch might be eemed proper. Whether this last jirovision was introduced with some s|)ecial and immediate object, or with a view to future contingencies, no means have as yet been afforded for dete/miiiing. It is, however, certain that the British government insisted strongly on retaining the above-imined privileges) and It is most probable, the Bed River* and the Co- lumbia countries were in view at that time as the re- mainder of the territory, included in the grant and not possessed by the company in virtue of the charter of 1G60, is of little value in any woy. In addition to the assistance and protection thus received from the British government, the constitution of the Hudson's Bay Company is such as to secure the utmost degree of knowledge and prudence in its councils, and of readiness and exactness in the execution of its orders. Its affairs are superintended by a governor, a dcjiuty- governor, and a committee of directors established at London, by whom all general orders and regulations are devised and issued, and all reports and accounts are examined and controlled. Ine proceedings of this body are enveloped in profound secrecy, and the communications made to the government in writing, which are likely to be published, are expressed in terms of studied caution, and afford only the detailA absolutely required. • Mr. Oreenhow is wrong so far as the Red River territory is concerned, as that region is not included in the exclusive licence of trade in 1838. — [R.M.M.] GROUNDS OK LICENSE FOR EXCLUSIVE TRADE. 855 "The trade in Amrrica in fipi-i i»lly directctt hy s retidvnt govi'rnnr, who occaiiionally viHitx and inspvctit til the prlnripnl nnMai— under him, lu otHcvrx, iirc chief factor*, chief trndcm, uiul rli'rk», for the mont part nstiven of North IlritAin. iind uii army of regular lervantii, employed an hiiiiti'r«, triidem, voyii((uurii, &c., nearly all of them C'anad ma, or hnlf-lireedii. The number of all theno pti ins ii nmall, when compared with the dutlen they liuve to perform i hut the manner in which they are admitted into the service, and the trainina to which they are subjected, arc such as to render their efficiency and their devo- tion to the general interests as great as possible. The strictest discipline, regularity, and economy, are enforced in every part of the 'iompany's territories; ■nd the magistrates appointed under the Act of Parliament tor the preservation of tranquillity, are seldom called to exercise their functions, excipt in the settlement of triHing disputes. "In the treatment of the aborigines of the coun- tries under its control, the Hudson's Bay Company appears to have admirably reconciled ])olicy with humnnitv. The prohibition to sujiply those people with ardent spirits, appears to be rigidly enforced. Schools for the instruction of the native children are established at all the principal trading posts, each of which also contains an hospital for sick Indians, and offers employment for those who arc disposed to work, whilst hunting cannot he carried on. Missionaries of various sects are encouraged to endeavour to convert them to Christianity, and to induce them to adopt the usages of civilized life, so far as may be consistent with the nature of the labours required for their support i and attempts are made, at great expense, to collect the Indians in villages, on tracts where the climate and soil ore most favourable for agriculture. Particuliir care is extended to the education of the halt-breed children, the offspring of the marriage or concubinage of the traders with the Indian women, who are retained nnd bred as far as possible among the white people, and are employed, whenever they are found capai)le, in the service of the company. As there ore tew or no white women in those territories, except in the Ked lliver settlements, it may \h- readily seen that the half-breeds mu.st in a short time form ii large and important portion of the native population. "The conduct of the Hudson's Bay .Company in these respects is certainly worthy of commendation, [t is, however, to be observed, that of the whole territory jiloced under the authority of that body, only a few small portions nio capable of being rendered productive by agriculture. From the remainder nothing of value can be obtained, excepting furs, and those articles can be procured in greater quantities, and at less cost, by the labour of the Indians, than by any other means. " The course observed by the Hudson's Bay Com- pany towards American citizens in tlie territory west of the llocky Mountains, lias been equally unexcep- tionable and yet equally politic. All tne missionaries and emigrants from the United States, and, indeed, oil strangers from whatever countries they might come, were received at the establishments of the com- pany on the Columbia with the utmost kindness and Iiospitality, and they were aided in the prosecution of their objects, so far and so long as those objects wore not commercial. But no sooner did any one, uncon- nected with the company, attempt to hunt, or to trap, or to trade with the natives, than all the force of the body was immediately directed towards him. There is no evidence, or well-founded suspicion, that the Huilson's Hay agents have ever resorted, directly or inwtMuniiifM« I: 360 BRITISH-AMERICAN RAILWAY. necting the different provinces in a common bond of communication J and, in a mer- cantile point of view, it cannot he considered otherwise than as one of the best invest- ments of the day, having been stamped with the patronage and approval of the late Lord Ashbnrton, even before the company re- ceived their recent magnificent grant of land; Lord Ashburton's acquaintance with the country, from his settlement of the boundary dispute, renders his testimony of great value. The grant consists of all the unallotted lands comprised within a belt of five miles on each side of the railway, and, by a certificate from the surveyor- general, contains upwards of 200,000 acres of some of the best land in the province, which, in consequence, doubles, or even qua- druples the profiiable character of the un- dertaking. The company is incorporated by several acts of the local legislature, confirmed by the queen in council, and in addition to the above grant of land, has obtained privileges and advantages which cannot be claimed by any similar body, viz., 6 per cent, on the English capital guaranteed by the legislature for 25 years, which is chargeable on the reve- nues of the province. The Company have the power to make branch lines or exten- sions to, or in any part of the colony without applying for fresh legislative acts, and with the same facilities as to land and the free use of crown materials as on the trunk line. It is ofllcially stated to me that the capital of the Association is divided into 8,000 shares of i£20 each : half of which, termed class "A" are to be allotted in England, and the remainder, called class " B " reserved for allocation in New Bruns- wick; the majority of these shares are al- ready appropriated, and the works are pro- ceeding with vigour, and it is confidently hoped that the first section to Woodstock, (80 miles) will be open in two years. Offices for the payment of dividends and the trans- action of such business as must be con- ducted in England, arc established at No. 10, Parliament Street, Westminster; and the interests of the English stockholders are guarded by a board of directors, resident iu this country, whose sanction is necessary to all measures proposed by the local directors in New Brunswick. The laud belonging to the company, which has hitherto been of comparatively trifling value, will, when the railway passes through it, most probab'y be eagerly sought after, and at once com- mand a considerably enhanced price, -which will far more than bring back their whole capital to the shareholders ; as, for instance, there are 8,000 shares of £20 each, and if the 200,000 acres are divided amongst those 8,000 shures, it will give 25 acres per share, which, taken at the low figure of £1 per acre, gives £25 per share, or £5 per share more than the actual capital subscribed ; and although the land will be disposed of, and thus return their capital to the shareholders, yet still the line will remain their property, and, from the provincial guarantee of interest, retain a comparative high value in the market. This is a strong inducement offered to the English capitalist, the use of whose money will only in the first instance be required, but to the homeless wanderer from the British shores, its benefits will prove incom- parably greater, as employment will be afforded him on the railway until he has had time to clear his land and become acquainted with the requirements of his novel mode of Ufe ; and by this he will be spared th»t fear- ful season of suspense which now intervenes, between the first clearing of the land and the period when it yields its return. Some of the shareholders have agreed to give a tenth of their land for church, school, and hospital purposes. Thus will nuclei be formed, around which a population will col- lect in a healthy and legitimate manner, and blessings, both present and prospective, be secured to all future emigrants. Table of the porHona of time in which European inteU ligance, telegraph and mails, passengers and freight, by sea and railroad, mag reach Montreal. Jig Admiral IK. F. W. Owen. For Montreal. Infelligence by telegraph will fie delayed by intcr- Temngtimeataea Debarking at — Canseau or WhitehaTen Halifax, Nova Scotia . Portland, Maine . . . Boston, Moaaaohosetta . New York Mails, pas- sengers, and freignt, by sea and railroad. Hours. 12 48 62 70 Hours. Sea. Rail. 0+25 = 2fi 12 + 24 = .36 48+ 0=67 66 + 11 = 63 70 + 13 -=83 If space had permitted, a chapter would have been given on emigration to the British North American colonies; on the advan- tages they possess as integral portions of a vast empire; and on the general state of those provinces as fields for the reception of the accumulating labouring population of the United Kingdom. This section must, how- ever, be reserved for the close of the work. i