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\ «

\ •

•

JOURNAL

OF AN

EXPLORING TOUR

BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE

A. B. C. F. M.

IN THE YEARS 1835, '36, AND '37 ;

CONTAININQ

t- J

r. '.I

A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, PRODUC-

TIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, MANNERS,

AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES :

t li

WITH A

MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY.

i: •'!

BIT RET. SAmVEIi PARKER, A. IH.

wt'ii

THIRD EDITION.

,.m

A2~

■i^

ITHACA, N.Y.

MACK, ANDRUS, &. WOODRUFF.

BOSTON : CROCKER & BREWSTER. — NEW-TORK : DAYTON & 8AXT0N ;

C9LLINS, KEE8E, & CO. — PHILADELPHIA : GRIOG & ELLIOT.

LONDON : WILEY & PUTNAM.

1842.

,rl

Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by
Samuri. Parker, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the
Northern District of New York.

MACK, ANDRUS, fc WOODRUFF, PRINTERS, ITHACA.

I ' . • • •

t • I

• • • : • ,

I • ' • • f <•

RECOMMENDATIONS.

FROM H. HUMPHREY, O. D., PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE.

I have read Mr. Parker's Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun.
tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts
and many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly
instructive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am
glad to learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is
not a book of lofly pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high in.
trinsic merit. The friends of the missionary cause, and of the abori-
ginal tribes beyond the mountains, who have iiot yet seen this volume,
have a rich reversion before tliem. H. HUMPHREY.

Amherst College, )
Nov. 7, 1839. S

18, by
)f tho

FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, A. M., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND
NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE^

I am happy to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring
Tour of Mr. Parker. EDWARD HITCHCOCK.

FROM NOAH WEBSTER, L L. D. NEW HAVEN.

New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839.
Dear Sir,

I have read the account of your journey over the Rocky Mountains
to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much valuable in.
formation respecting a part of our continent, which is imperfectly ex-
plored. I hope the publication of the book will amply reward your
labors. N. WEBSTER.

from JAMIvS RICHARDS, D.

D. PROFESSOR IN AUBURN THEOLOGICAL
SEMINARY.

I have read the Tour of the Rev. Mr. Parker among the Western

Indians, and was much gratified by his statements. His travels across

the Rocky Mountains, and his visit to the far distant tribes beyond,

are connected with many striking facts and incidents, which cannot

fail to interest the inquisitive and reflecting. In my judgment, the

work is calculated to benefit the cause of Science and of Missions.

JAMES RICHARDS.
Auburn, Nov. 14, 1839.

Si^G

RECOMMENDATIONS.

" Tills is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes ricli food
alike to the man of science and the unlearned. It is ono of the most
deeply interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American
press ; inasmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores
of knowledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore
has been but partially explored. This is a volume which commends
itself to the careful perusal of men of every class, and, so marvellous
are its truths, that it needs but the merit of being a work of fiction, to
gain for it universal circulation." — Missionary Herald, Cincinnati.

" Mr. Parker's observations on the geology and geography of the
country tiirough which he passed are alone richly worth twice the cost
of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work
is a noble weapon ; to the advocates of Foreign Missions an unanswer-
able evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new
map from actual observation of the territory of the United States
west of the limits of Missouri, and a lithograph exhibiting the extra-
ordinary rock formation through which the Oregon has worn its way.
The book is written in a plain, familiar style, and is intended to em.
body only such facts as may be said to come absolutely within the
knowledge of the author. We earnestly recommend it to the atten-
tion of the entire reading public." — New Yorker, May 19, 1838.

Acknowledgements arc due to numerous editors of periodicals and
papers who have given the work a favorable notice.

PREFACE.

In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond
the Rocky Mountains, the only apology, necessary to offer,
is the hope of promoting a more extensive and particular
knowledge, than has hitherto been furnished, of th • condi-
tion of that important section of our country. The author's
mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for obser-
vation, being conducted with leisure, through one of the
most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west.
It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irrecon-
cilable witii a strict adherence to facts, and this scrupu-
lous regard to truth is the principal merit claimed for the
volume. The most of what is narrated came under the
author's personal observation, and whatever is stated which
did not, was obtained from gentlemen connected with the
Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for hones; v rnd
candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well
established. This source of information was available by
collecting and comparing the statements of different indi-
viduals, retaining what corresponded with his own observa-
tion, or was well supported by evidence. The belief is

cherished, that the following work contains a grer.ter amount

;i i

! (

PREFACE.

of statistical information in regard to the country, and
important facts, than is to be found in any production
furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater ex-
tent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and
with the express object of exploring the condition of the
aboriginal population, this position cannot be considered as
assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky
Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore
the country, more than thirty years since, and their pub-
lished narrative carries with it evidence of candor and in-
telligence, and contains much valuable information; yet
their opportunities for observation were somewhat limited.
They passed over the great chain of mountains from the
head waters of the Misoouri between the 4.'j° and 46° of
north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Coos-
cootskee, and followed that river to its junction with the
Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the
Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river, wintered
upon the south side of the bay, and early the following
spring returned to the mountains by the same route which
they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons
who have published any history of their travels beyond the
mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and many
of their observations upon different sections of the country
are just, but they are deficient in statistical information,
and their productions are mostly confined to personal ad-

litV

PUiiFACE.

▼H

ventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfcot or Crow In-
dians, starvation, and hair-broudth escapes. Justice to the
public requires lidelity in the historian and traveler. It is
not our business to originate facts, but to record them. The
license given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be
tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or
graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone
for impressions which are not in accordance with truth.

While it was a leading object to become acquainted with
the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposi-
tion in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful at-
tention was given to the geography of the country, with its
productions ; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers,
and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and
valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the va-
rious aspects of its physical condition. The country here
described is sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large
scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising
20,000 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest,
the widely extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and
the results of volcanic agency which are met with in almost
every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene
of interest to the traveler; and if any statements appear
large, it is because the facts are so in themselves.

It has been an object in writing this volume to compress
as much as possible the amount of information, instead of

:■: I

Vlll

PREFACE.

unnecessarily extending it, untl the hope is indulged, that
while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened
if it do not already exist, to benefit the original, the rightful
owners, and with the exception of a few thousand fur tra-
ders scattered in every direction over this territory, the sole
occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature.

The map which accompanies the work has been prepared
with much labor and care ; and though some minute parts
are omitted, it will be found far more accurate than any
which has before been published. In addition to my own
surveys, I have availed myself of those of gentlemen con-
nected with the Hudson Bay Company, in parts which I did
not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancouver and the
labors of other explorers for much that I have delineated of
the North- West coast of the Pacific ocean, and the Islands.

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The interest the public have taken in tliis work, evinced
by tbc many liiglily commendatory reviews and notices,
wiiicb liavo appeared in numerous periodicals, relijiious, sci-
entific, and political, both in this country and in FiUrope,
torjethcr with the sale of the first edition, has infiuenced the
author to publish a second edition. Many persons, whose
judgment, extensive knowledge, and piety, entitle them to
bo held in high estimation, have encouraged him to believe
that this work has been interesting to men of science, useful
in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit
of missions, and what is not the least to be valued, a sym-
pathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon.

As it was an object in preparing the first edition to com-
press as great an amount of information as {)(>s,sible in the
compass of a duodecimo volume, so in this — the same object
has been pursued, and while some parts have been en-
largod, others have been abridged. The whole work has
been attentively revised and corrected. It is hoped that it
will contribute its influence, however small it may be, in
aiding the cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if

I assert the sentiment, that the acquisition of all knowledge

illP

X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

should be made subservient to this important use, and that the
gold from any region, if it cannot be refined in this crucible,
is of no real value, and whatever \vi 1 not directly or in-
directly, nearly or remotely, concur in this great end, must
at length endure the ultimate fate of that " knowledge which
shall vanish away."

Previous editions having been so well received, a third
is now published, having undergone a careful revision, and
some parts have been re-written, and additions have been
made. It is hoped that it will be found not the less worthy
of public favor.

Ithaca, 1842.

I -*•- ■■ — — ^

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Eric, and Pittsburgh ;
passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam-
boat takes fire; Cincinnati; Falls of the Ohio; the Ohio river;
Ohio and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi
rivers; Point Girardou; beautiful appearance of fire on the
prairie; St. Genevieve, old custom ; Hcrculaneum; gambling
on board the steam-boals; St. Louis; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr.
Fontencllc 17

CHAPTER II.

Leave St. Louis for Liberty; passage up the Missouri; snags;
a walk on shore ; Jefferson citj' ; river scenery ; steam-boat
Siam; sand bars; Lexington; steam-boat disaster; Liberty;
Navahoe Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing
provincialisms ; caravan commence their journey ; first en-
campmcnt ; Iowa Indians ; Blacksnakc hills ; Nodaway river ;
Elk ; cross the Neshnabotana ; rich soil ; rapid rise of the north
branch of Neshnabotana ; mode of living; mounds of the west;
crossing of the Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries.

CHAPTER III.

Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curi.

osity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; spas.

modic cholera ; an Indian chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the

Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn

river, the country around ; Loups fork of the Platte ; manner

of encamping; Big Ax, Pawnee chief; Indian feasting; fourth

of July ; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm ; Indian

ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle.snake ; buf.

»:

Xll

CONTENTS.

t|.

folo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ;
swiftness of antelopes; climate ; thousands of buffalo; badgers;
prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or bea-
con ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills.

CHAPTER IV.

Black Hills; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of In-
dians for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenccd
our journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of worm-
wood ; Red Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock In.
dependence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through
the mountains ; " thunder spirits" gone ; an alarm ; waters of
the Colorado. .........

CHAPTER V.

Arrive at rendezvous; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations;
Flatheads and Nez Pcrces, no reason why so called ; surgical
operations; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perc6
chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct.
Whitman ; Shoshoncs and Utaws ; mountain life.

CHAPTER VI.

Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia ;
kindness of the Indians; narrow defile; geology; Jackson's
Hole ; wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain pros-
pect; Trois Tctons; danger from affrighted buffalo; Pierre's
Hole; volcanic chasm; children on horseback; interesting
worship witii the Indians; burial of a child; scarcity of food;
a timc'y supply ; Salmon river ; expected battle ; geological
observations; scene of mourning. .....

CHAPTER VII.

Salmon river; mineral salt; chimneys; forest trees, new species
of pine ; geology ; sulphur lake ; a rare animal ; new species

CONTENTS.

xiii

of squirrels and pheasant ; came to the Lewis branch of the
Columbia ; ferryman ; Basaltic formation ; fine climate ; arrive
at Waila Walla 114

CHAPTER VIII.

Description of Walla Walla; the kind treatment of the Indians
by the Hudson Bay Company ; leave Walla Walla for Fort Van.
couver; loquacious orator ; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse
Indians; morning prospect; long rapids; Volcanic mountains;
trial of Indian generosity; arrival at tlic Falls of the Columbia
river ; rousing ctl'ccts of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading
company; remarkable subsidence; Cascades; Clicnooks arc
the Flathcads and Ncz Pcrces ; dangerous rapids ; Indian bu-
rying places; Pillar Rock; interesting waterfall; sea fowl;
arrive at Fort Vancouver. .......

130

CHAPTER IX.

Description of Fort Vancouver ; departure for Fort George and
mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnomah : Wappatoo
Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian
friendship ; Pacific Ocean ; Gray's Bay ; Astoria. . . . 148

CHAPTER X.

Description of Fort George; mouth of the Columbia; dangerous
bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for
a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests ; excur-
sion in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at
the entrance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship
Isabella ; Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ;
return to Fort Vancouvi ; ; the regard Indians show the dead ;
Indian kindness 155

CHAPTER XI.

Review of journeyings ; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk
upon the pebbly shore ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ;

'Ui

XIV

CONTENTS.

Motliodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi-
tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William,
on tlic AVappatoo island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits :
return to Fort Vancouver. 168

CHAPTER XII.

Services on the Sabbath ; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging
case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver fur
and farming establishment; garden productions, lumber ; com-
merce; peltries; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste
of life ; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; Chris.
tian principle ; worldly principle. ..... 182

CHAPTER XIII.

Indian population ; diseases ; mortality ; attributed to cultivation
of the soil ; destitute of medical science ; holidays ; customs at
home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish customs
in punishment ; marriage contracts ; condition of the females;
slavery ; division into tribes ; points of dissimilarity ; sac.
rifices ; language 191

CHAPTER XIV.

The various animals beyond the Mountains.

199

iCHAPTER XV.

Fish ; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; den-
drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ;
valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons. . . 212

CHAPTER XVI.

Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ;
their persons ; dress; wealth; habits; physical character; man-
ufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; su-
perstitions ; medicine men. 228

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVII.

The Indians of the lower country.

244

CHAPTER XVIII.

Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ;
early and mild season ; La Dalles Indians ; their anxiety to
receive the gospel ; Nootka humming bird ; number and loca-
tiop of the Indians in the lower country; Indians of the north ;
the agitated question ; solitariness 256

CHAPTER XIX.

Departure for the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at
the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ;
the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender
sympatiiy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; inter-
esting meeting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious
instruction ; a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass. 268

CHAPTER XX.

Journey to the Nez Percd country ; funeral of a child ; natural
scenery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; in-
dustry of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking ;
journey to Colvilc. ........ 280

CHAPTER XXI.

Paloosc Indians ; Pavilion river ; extraordinary excavation ; lost
on the prairie ; Indian principle ; Spokcin woods and country;
Indian ferry ; Spokein valley; granite; volcanic curiosities; fer-
tile valley ; worsliip with the Spokeins ; Mill river valley ; ar-
rival at Fort Colvile ; description of the place ; leave Colvile for
Fort Okanagan ; a mountain of marble ; Grand Coul<;, or old
bed of the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long rapids ; ar-
rive at Walla Walla 289

■H

XVI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXII.

A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the
tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort
Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cas-
cades ; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; stcam-boat ex-
cursion 308

CHAPTER XXIII.

Geology.

321

CHAPTER XXIV.

General remarks ; IMctoorological table.

341

CHAPTER XXV.

The voyage commenced for the Sandwich Islands ; passage in
the Beaver down the river ; take passage in the barque Colum-
bia ; detention in Chenook bay ; arrival at the islands ; worship
in the native clvarch ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the valley
ofManoa: description of Honolulu ; ofWaititi; heathen tem-
ple ; Eva; Waialua; Koneohe ; mountains; salt lake ; geolo-
gy; natural productions ; animals; government; tea party of
the royal family ; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and En-
terprise ; decrease of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign
residents ; charity school ; seamen's chapel ; burying place of
the royal family ; missionary success. .... 3.")7

CHAPTER XXVI.

Departure from Oahu in ship Plicenix for the United States; call
at the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo ;
severe gales of wind : Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ;
Trinidad ; arrival at New London. .... 378

PARKER'S TOUR.

CHAPTER I.

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Eric and Pittsburgh — pas.
sage to Cincinnati in the steam boat Ohioan — the steam.boat takes
fire — Cincinnati — Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio river — Ohio and
Kentucky — confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point
Girardou — beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie — St. Gene-
vieve, old custom — Herculancum — gambling on board the steam-
boats — St. Louis — Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Fontenelle.

The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and
the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical con-
dition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last
thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession of
the country, its future probable importance in a political
view, its population and trade, have occupied much atten-
tion. The Christian public have not been inattentive to the
interests, moral and religious, of those whom the Grod of
providence has placed in these remote regions, and who are
without the blessings of civilization and Christianity. The
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions ap-
pointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain by
personal observation, the condition and character of the
Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing
the gospel and civilization among them.

PITTSBURGH.

i i

That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour-
ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except
by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could
be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted.
It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indif-
ference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my
purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. Although
it was painful to bid adieu to family and friends, unapprised
of the events of the future, yet committing all to the gui-
dance and protection of an all-wise Providence, the enter-
prise was undertaken, without reluctance, on the 14th of
March, 1835. Pursuing the journey by the way of Buffalo
and Erie, I arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. The
intervening distance to St. Louis, through the great valley
of the west, had lost much of its novelty, having previously
passed over it, and long since has it ceased to excite that de-
gree of interest in the community, with which it was regard-
ed before the numerous descriptions of the tourist and trav-
eler had rendered its general features familiar. Only a
passing notice, therefore, will be given.

Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from its multiplied manufac-
tories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I took
passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, four hun-
dred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The scenery of
the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to the Missis-
sippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, and culti-
vated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 28th, we ar-
rived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that day was disco-
vered to be on fire in the hold, in which were a large quantity
of combustible goods. This created great alarm. A very
strong head wind blew the fire from the furnace down the
hatchway, which, after removing some goods, had been

I I ( I V

CINCINNATr.

carelessly left open. The captain immediately rounded the
boat to the shore, and no sooner was it gained, than there
was a p;eneral rush for safety. Some of the passengers
threw out their baggage, and many leaped from the upper
deck to the land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with
considerable difficulty we disengaged the boat from its
grounded position, and from the trees among which it was
entangled, and we were again under way.

Cincinnati is a large city for a country so new, and from
its mature appearance would hardly be thought to have
been tlie growth of only half a century. Its population,
composed of emigrants from New England, the middle, and
some of the southern states, and from various parts of Eu-
rope, is consequently not very homogeneous in its character.
Its schools and institutions of literature, promise much for
the great interests of science and religion in this interesting
section of our growing country.

Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, for
the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which, by water
is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. On the
30th, we passed Louisville, near which are the falls of the
Ohio, twenty-two feet in height, and passable by boats only
in high water, about two months in a year. To save the
expense and delay of portage around the falls, a canal has
been constructed on the south side of the river, two miles in
length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep.

The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was
a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly
and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls, it increases
in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irre-
sistible current ; and you are anxious to know whether
your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at

•11

■i

'1 ' >

'■> :

THE OHIO RIVER — OHIO AND KENTUCKY.

them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, that while

theii

Your

■attention is fixed, their countenances are seren
fears give way to emotions of the sublime. The boat shoots
forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon
you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm
below.

The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course
romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and
easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bot-
tom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills
and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of
the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in
every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that
there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has
the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass-
ing through this part of the great western valley. Farms,
and towns, and villages, exhibit the advantage that has been
taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swifl-mo-
ving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes the
means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. The
striking difference in the taste and habits of the people in-
habiting the two sides of the river, was here veiy apparent.
Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwellings
are in the New England style, while on the Kentucky side,
scattered here and there, you see the large log houses of the
planters in a grade of architecture considerably above the
log cabins of their slaves, by which they are surrounded,
yet log houses still. These are built two stories high, with
a wide airy hall through the centre, one of the lower rooms
being the parlor, and the other serves the several purposes
of a nursery, sleeping, and eating room. Open, frank hos-
pitality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to

CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI.

a stranf^cr. I ofrered a lady in one of tliesc mansions
some tracts, wliicli she at first declined with the enquiry,
"Do you think we are heathen?" "No, niadain ; but
tracts contain much that is interesting to all classes
of peojjle, and after they are read, can be circulated
among those who may not be well supplied with books."
I saw but very few houses of worship, except in villa-
ges.

On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the
Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out
into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same
form. Both appear to expand themselves into tlieir most
majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to
claim tlie superiority ; and when joined, they move on with
united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of
these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead
of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, sur-
rounded by a few miserable huts.

To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the
machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and had
he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men
standinfir by, must have been drawn wholly in and crushed
to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the
leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon
on board I oiHciated in dressing his wounds.

Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above

the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a

bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine

prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus-

try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics

are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of

decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and current.

ii-

tl I

iri

PRAIRIES ON FIRE.

The fires of the prairies corning over tlie blufTs, presented
a very pleasing scene this evening. These blulFs are two
hundred feet iiigh, and extend one or two miles along the
river. At a considerable distance they appeared like an
illuminated city, but as we approached and had a nearer
view, the illusion was dissipated. The iires had advanced
ziearly over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately
ascending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in
festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from
the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to
the beauty and grandeur of the prospect.

A short stay was made on the third, at the landing of
St. Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from
the river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely
by French, who are slow to depart from the customs and
manners established by their forefathers, who have long since
passed away. To adopt new improvements would be a step
next to giving up their catholic religion and turning infidel.
It is amusing to see the manner they yoke their oxen, and
to learn the reason they assign for so doing. The yoke is
composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened to the back
side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that in
this way, they save the whole power of the animal ; but
tiwit the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the
shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their rea-
soning may satisfy themselves, but would not the thorough,
going New England farmer.

To-day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situated
on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis.
It is almost surrounded by high precipitous hills, having
only a narrow space for a village. There are several shot-
towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which con-

GAMBLING.

presented
i arc two
ilon<5 the
I like an
a nearer
idvanced
oderutely

down in
!ted from

much to

inding of
ack from
t entirely
toms and
onjj since
be a step
g infidel,
xen, and

yoke is
the back

that in
nal ; but

k to the
heir rea-
lorough-

situated

t. Louis.

having

ral shot-

ich con.

siderable business is done. Large quantities of lead, brought
from the mines, are sold ami carried to distant markets.

In travelling upon those waters it is painful to see how
few books of any value there uro on boani the steam-ljoats.
Some novels are found, Li t the monl nf them are of a licen-
tious character. Thousands of those whu navigate these
rivers are going to the judgment rrgardless of the intefents
of their jouls, and most of them are destitute of the Bible.
It gave great otfence to many, that we should have reli-
gious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invitation.
Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Obtruding religion
— no place for such things." But profanity and gambling
are no obtrusion ; they are always in time and always in
place. Christiuns must keep religion out of sight and hear-
ing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they
please. Gambling is practised on board the steam-boats
upon these waters to a very great extent, and is a favorite
amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cul-
tivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conver-
sation. The number of black-legs who make gambling
their business is great, and they are adepts in their profes-
sion, as their success depends very much upon their skill
in deception, and in decoying the inexperienced.

On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis.
This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west
side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth
of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Mis-
souri, and in its local position resembles Albany, N. Y.
The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river,
and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, partly
covered with shrubbery, back of which are open prairies.

In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets

1' ■

!■!

ST. LOUIS.

are narrow. This may have been done to accommodate
their propensity to be sociable, by enabling tliem to converse
from the windows across the streets. The French popula-
tion, with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted for
their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their favourite
amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this object,
with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As gambling
does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, enterprising
men among the French population. Drunkenness is not
common, and the temperance cause is doing much to remove
wliat exists. Eastern enterprise and influence is gaining
ground since the town has been brought under the laws of
the United States ; and a new impulse is given to business.
This is the central place in the west for the fur trade, which
is carried on by the American Fur Company to a consider-
able extent ; and also much business is done in lead, which
is obtained at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and
other water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are
seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost
every description of character and nation, collect here, such
as trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, as a starting
point from whence to go into the still far west, many of
whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky Moun-
tains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will
undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade
in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are five
houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman Catholic.
The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light brown sand-
stone, and is a large expensive building. The Protestant
influence is increasing, and there are here many active, de-
voted Christians, who exert a salutary influence upon the town
and vicinity around. The population is fifteen thousand.

DR. WHITMAN.

Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here, who
is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through
the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived
a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview
with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent
out by the American Fur Company. Tlie caravan proceeds
a very little ^eyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose
of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and supplies for
their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping ; and
returns with the furs which they have taken during the
year. There are about three hundred men constantly em-
ployed in and about the mountains, and more than sixty
who constitute the caravan. With a much lesc number it
would be unsafe to perform this journey, as there are hos-
tile tribes of Indians on the way, viz : the Arickaras, the
Crows, and Blackfeet. Having obtained permission of the
principal agents of the company, Mr. Fontenelle kindly of-
fered to accommodate us with such advantages as may be
afforded in his caravan. Finding it necessary to leave this
place to-day for Liberty, which is one of the most western
towns in the United States, we were very busily employed
in making preparation for the journey, and in calling upon
and bidding farewell to Christian friends. A fire last night
destroyed a very large livery stable, in which we lost a
horse, saddle, and bridle. The old cathedral, which was
used for a store-house, was also burnt, together with a very
large quantity of crockery which it contained.

'-M

•m''

i :[■

ACCIDENT.

CHAPTER II.

Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri — snags — a walk
on shore — Jefferson city — River scenery — Steam-Boat Siam — Sand
bars — Lexington — Steam. Boat disaster— Liberty — Navahoc Indians
— ride to Cantonment Leavenworth — amusing provincialisms —
Caravan commence their journey — first encampment — Iowa Indi-
ans — Blacksnake hills — Nodaway river — Elk — cross the Neshna-
botana — Rich soil — rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana
— mode of living — mounds of the west — crossing of the Missouri —
Bellevue — Missionaries.

At five o'clock, P. M. we went on board the steam-boat
St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty
miles ; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and
Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous to
proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars in
the Missouri.

On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather slow
progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which is
twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the
Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St. Louis.
This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north side
of the river. The country around is interesting, and tlie
8oil of superior quality. An enterprising Christian popula-
tion would make this one of the most desirable places in
the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years of
age, fell overboard, but, from the swiftness of the current,
and as the boat was under full way, there was no opportu-
nity to save him. He was seen floating a short time, but
before the yawl could be loosed from its fastening, and

JEFFERSON CITY.

js — a walk
am — Sand
LOG Indians
cialisms —
Iowa Indi-
D Neshna-
hnabotana
Missouri —

eam-boat
ii* twenty
Duri and
»erous to
bars in

her slow

which is

with the

t. Louis.

)rth side

and the

popula-

)laoes in

years of

current,

:)pportu-

nie, but

ng, and

manned, he sunk, and was seen no more. His mother, a
widow, and her family, were removing from Kentucky to
Franklin, Mo. The mother and the children lamented
greatly and loudly.

Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, Ave struck a
snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we
could not determine which it was, and it became necessary
to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was mucli
injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore.
Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of
those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This
was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an
elevation of several hundred feet. Hero we had a delight-
ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled
prairie and wood land, its cultivated spots, and its hills and
dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter-
posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could
we return in the same way ? We were compelled, by de-
scending backwards, to use much caution, and letting our-
selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, and
assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. We also
visited a place, some distance below this, where Lewis and
Clark encamped three days, the state of the river being such
that they could not ascend with their batteaux. Many wild
turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited shores. On
the tenth, our boat discharged a part of her cargo at Port-
land, a small newly built village. A fellow passenger, a
merchant of this place, on landing, immediately put in re-
quisition some thirty colored men, women, and children, who
readily, without the aid of horses or carts, transferred his
merchandise to its destination.

The boat stopped on the 11th, at Jefferson city, the cap-

i II

SAND BARS.

'/ I

;l i

* n

iil!

ital of the state, situated on the south side of the river, upon
a high eminence, a little above the Osage river, It has a
great name for so sinall a place. The state house is of a
size which would be decent for a small academy ; and the
governor's house would do very well for a common farmer's
house in the country, but not such as we should expect
for a governor in Jefferson City. But the state of Missouri
is comparatively new, and this place may in time support
its name.

Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and en-
deavored to observe the day according to the commandment.

On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small
villages, which have a country of rich land around them,
and when it is brought under good cultivation, they must
rise in importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently
diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along
the shores are mostly oak and cotton-wood, with some hac-
berry and buckeye, and it is interesting to see how easily
and how deep they take root in the free rich soil along the
river. Frequently, where the banks are washing away, the
roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and generally
there is only a large central root descending ten or twelve
feet, with small ones branching out, presenting the appear-
ance of an inverted cone. The river makes nothing of
washing away, and forming islands. Sand bars and snags
are so common, that, becoming accustomed to them, we
hardly think of danger.

We found the steam-boat Siam, on 14th, Captain L., at
Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her freight
and passengers, and returned ; both boats having so far
discharged their freight, that one could proceed with the
remainder. When under way, the boat run upon a sand

A CONTRAST.

bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently threat-
ening a disaster, but the quicksand of which the bar was
composed, soon washed away, and we went ahead again.
Running aground in this river is a very different thing from
what it would be In most waters ; for the bars are so gene-
rally formed of quicksand, that in most instances the current
around the boat sets all clear.

Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, We ran upon
a bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and
so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we made
only five miles before one o'clock, P. M. Called at Lex-
ington, a village pleasantly situated one mile back from the
landing, and surrounded by a fine country. We made only
about fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so slow, that it
would have been far more pleasant traveling by land ; and
to have been free from imprisonment with shockingly pro-
fane swearers and gamblers, most of whom are intemperate.

It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another Sabbath,
on board the steam-boat. How great a contrast to the sa-
credness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Christian fam-
ily circle ; or in the sanctuafy where God is worshiped in
the great congregation ; or in the quiet, unobtrusive sabbath
school, where attentive minds sit down to study the word of
God, that they miay practice its precepts, and where the
teachers are heard explaining and enforcing divine truth
upon the young and tender conscience.

As wc passed along, I saw many children standing on the
banks of the river, and thought how benevolent persons at
the east had desired their religious instruction, and how
much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had failed to
reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity
and vice around them, by which they are educated for de-

% if

I !'■

<»

V, ■•,-{•1

STEAM-BOAT DISASTER.

struction, and endeavored to ask the Great Benefactor of
all to do that for them which it was not in my power to do.
I contrasted in my mind the difierence between kindred
souls in sweet communion in the service of God to-day, and
the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes
and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms
of this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his Christ.

About the middle of the day, the captain and his men ap-
peared to be given up to blind infatuation. Tho Siam was
a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her first
season. They appeared to regard no bounds in raising and
applying steam. Such was the power under Avhich the boat
labored, that she more than trembled. For a long time I
expected some disaster, and looked at the captain to see if I
could discover any apprehensions of danger. There was
no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent
spirits. Soon the disaster came, though less extensive than
I had feared ; the main shaft, which was large and made of
iron, broke, and farther progress was impossible.

Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to find
some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It
only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilderness
shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and return
with one wheel, like a crippled Avinged fowl. Two miles
above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand bar high
and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and being left
by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to be libera-
ted. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that most of
the accidents which happen to steam-boats take place on the
Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would be long before
they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take
us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards evening w«Vii (v i into

LIBERTY.

»I

a small neighborhood of Mormons, where we lodged. They
had fled from Jackson county, which they call tlieir promised
land, and to which they say they shall return. They are a
poor deluded people, and when they speak of their persecu-
tions, they seem not to possess the spirit our Saviour, who,
when he was reviled, reviled not again, and when he suffered,
threatf^ned not.

We vode on the 21st, *vvelve miles to Liberty, through a
very pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, well
supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to
render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the year,
when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter, appears
with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flowers, and
trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the scene.
I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A. Sponsa) which
here were numerous ; the variety of its colors was adapted
to the beauty of the scenery which surrounded us. And
tlie sprightly deer did n€>t seem to accelerate its movements
so much from fear, as from love of flight.

Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of
the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a court-
liouse of brick — several stores, which do considerable busi-
ness, a rope-walk, and a number of decent dwelling houses.

Continued in this place about three weeks, waiting for the
caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men,
korses and mules, and wagons, ar collected and put in read-
iness ; and from this place commences the long journey for
the west. V/hile we remained here, we had an opportunity
to collect much information from those who have been to
and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to the country,
mode of traveling, and concerning the various Indian tribes
on the way. Captain Ford, and Lieutenant Stein from Fort

'it'-

CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH.

Leavenworth, were also here. They are both professors of
religion, and ap{)ear to be well acquainted with the Indian
country. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was
out with the dragoons the last year — and was among the Paw-
nee Picts. He gives a very favorable account of them, and
thinks the way is open to establish a mission among them
with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the way is
prepared, or is preparing, for a mission among the Caman-
ehes, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wish for
peace and trade with the Americans. I saw also a Mr.
Vaughn of this place, a Baptist professor, who has made two
trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two years in that place.
He gives a very interestii»g description of the Navahoes, a
tribe who number about two thousand warriors. Their
country lies between the Rio Del Norte and the eastern
branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to
a very considerable extent ; have large herds of cattle and
horses, and flocks of sheep ; and have many domestic man-
ufactures and houses of good construction. They are
friendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr.
V. thinks they would readily receive Protestant missiona-
ries, and would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of
their hostility to the Spaniards. He also speaks well of the
Paches, or Apaqhes, a small tribe on the Del Norte towards
old Mexico. These have been at war three years with the
Spaniards.

Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Cantonment
Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of the Mis-
souri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United States.
The way is through a fertile section of country, part of the
distance is an open prairie, other parts are handsomely wood-
ed, and, all well adapted to cultivation. I had an introduc-

SINGULAR VIEWS.

tion to several of the officers, and made my home at Lieut.
S's, an agreeable and religious family.

I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the
people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention.
There is a very considerable number of professors of reli-
gion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain
to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a defi-
ciency in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and
some of the other officers appear disposed to maintain goixl
order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence.
I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take
a view of the fort and the adjacent country. The buildings
of the fort are situated within an enclosure around a large,
beautiful square, which is covered with grass, and adorned
with shade trees. The whole is on an elevation of a few
huadre J feet, and has an interesting prospect of the majestic
river flowing on silently below. The fertile country around
presents a wide and fine prospect, and when settled by an
industrious population, will equal the most favored parts of
the earth.

Liberty, and the surrounding country, is inhabited by
people of considerable enterprise, and when it shall be
brought under Christian influence, there will be but few
places more inviting. There is but one Presbyterian min-
ister in this county, a man of talents and very respectable
attainments, who is exerting a good influence. The Bap-
tists in this section of country are unlike those of the east.
They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the day.
Elder If. the pastor of the church in this place, invited Rev.
Mr. Merril, a Baptist missionary, located among the Otoe
Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him the

first Sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, ap-

,,"•■■' I-

PROVINCIALISMS.

4 .M

prehensive that Mr. Merril would say something ahout the
cause of temperance, or missionary efforts, and Ehler H.
had to withdraw his invitation. They profess to act from
Cliristian principles in refusing to give their minister any
thing for support, lest they should make him a hireling.

It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are
common in this part of the country. If a person intends to
commence a journey some time in the month, for instance,
in May ; he says, " I am going in all the month of May."
For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprinkle
of people." The word *' balance," comes into almost every
transaction — '* will you not have a dessert for the balance
of your dinner ?" — " to make out the halance of his night's
rest, he slept until eight in the morning." If your bagi^age
is to be carried, it will be asked, '* shall I tote your jilnndir ?"
This use of the word plunder is said to have originated in
the early predatory habits of the borderers. They also
speak of a "mighty pleasant day" — "a mighty beautiful
flower" — " mighty weak." A gentleman, with whom I form-
ed some acquaintance, invited me, when I should make " an
outing" for exercise, to call at his hoube ; for his family
would be " mighty glad" to see me.

During our continuance at this place, we were hospitably
entertained at the house of J. B. Esq., one of the judges of
the county court. We were under many obligations to him
and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but also for the
privilege of retirement in so kind and intelligent a family.
Nor would we be unmindful of the hospitality shown us by
Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Y.

May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced
our journey for Council Blutl&, directing our course north-
west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of the

INDIAN TRIBES.

United States, and for the last time, for a long period tu
come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family.

The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought
us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian coun-
try, and encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The
sensations excited by the circumstances of our situation
were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt ; in a wil-
derness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, en-
gaged in setting our tent, preparing supper .vith only a few
articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, and
bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I would not
dispense with attention to decencies, because beyond the
boundaries of civilization ; and having adjusted everything
in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we re-
tired ro rest. But how to adjust all the anxieties and feel-
ings of the mind, so as to obtain the desired repose, was a
more difficult task.

On the 17th, I crossed over the east, or little Platte, which
is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath with Mr.
Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmental . black-
smith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians of the Iowa,
Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian and his
wife were noble-looking persons, having their faces painted
with unmixed vermilion ; the former entirely, and the latter
in stripes. They felt too important to be seen noticing what
was transpiring around, and seemed to think themselves
the only objects worthy of notice.

Here is an excellent, fertile tract of country, and nothing
discouraging for a missionary station, except the contami-
nating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish
to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than
on any other account ; for their game is mostly gone. One

4 ^

. 4

BLACKSNAKK HILLS.

of them camo to Mr. Gilmoro to get some ploughs, and re-
marked, " it is hard work to dig up our ground for corn by
hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, who would
not join Black Hawk in his war against the United States,
and who are now afraid to return to their own country.
Their condition is becoming more and more wretched ; for
while they have not the knowledge, the means, nor much
of the inclination necessary to cultivate their lands advan-
tageously, they have an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits ;
and there are too many unprincipled men on our frontiers,
who, for the sake of gain, will supply them with the means
of drunkenness and destruction.

Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality,
we rode on Monday, 18th, twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills.
At this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, and an un-
commonly fine farming establishment on the Missouri river.
His buildings are on a small elevation of land, having a
delightful prospect in front of more than a thousand acres
of open bottom land, lying along down the river ; and hills
on the north and east partially covered with woods. What
has nature not wrought without the labor of man ? The
herds of cattle, and other domestic animals, have as wide
a range as they choose, and fences are necessary only to
secure fields for cultivation.

The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their
dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon which
the dead are placed in rudely constructed coffins overspread
with skins.

Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre-
ferring the field to the house, where I might have been sub-
jected to many kinds of annoyances.

For several days nothing special occurred.^ On the 22d,

! i 'i'i'l

! -I

f i

CONSTRUCTION OF A RAFT.

i, and rc-
r corn by
ho would
}d States,
country.
3hed ; for
lor much
Is advan-
it spirits ;
frontiers,
he means

)spitality,

ike Hills.

id an un-

Liri river.

having a

nd acres

and hills

What

? The

as wide

,'• only to

of their
m which
srspread

)ut, pre-
3en sub-

the 22d,

we tM'ossed the N(wlaway river with a raft ; the construction
of whioji, and truiisporting our l)a«j:<,'U^Mi, occupitMl most of
the day. To construct a itaft, a number of dry logs are
collected, an<l secured together, side by side, with barks
stripped from elm trees ; some few men swim, across the
river, taking nn ith them one end of a rope, while the other
end is fastened to the raft ; it is then siioved olf, the men
upon the other side of the river pulling upon the ropo.
The raft is generally drifted considerably down stream, be-
fore it is brought to land upon the opposite shore. In this
manner they crossed and re-crossed, until the baggage was
carried over. Then follows the swimming over the horses,
which is attended with noise enough — hallooing of men,
snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones to
prevent them, after having gone part the way over, from
returning.

We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap-
proached, and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were
not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very
large, and when their horns are on, have a very majestic
appearance. We frequently found their horns on the
prairie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide-
spreading branches.

Sabbath, the twenty-fourth, passing over a brook near
which we had encamped the evening before, my companion
and myself remained for the day, while the caravan went
on. The movements of the caravan are so slow, that we
felt confident we could overtake them without any difficulty,
and as there was no danger from the hostile Indians, we
considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day
was very warm for May, the thermometer standing, at two
in the a^fternoon, at 88°.

NEW DIFFICULTIES.

' \m\\

The next day m'o overtook the caravan before night, and
crossed the south branch of the Ncslinabotana on a raft.
Some of the men of tlie caravan, if not all, were much dis-
pleased, because we did not travel M-ith them on the Sabbath.
To express their displeasure, they cut some of the barks,
with which the raft they had made was bound together, and
set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far before it
lodged against a tree, and, without much loss of time, we
repaired it and passed over.

On the twenty-sixth, came to the main branch of the
Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finishing
of which and crossing took most of the following day. The
soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass for our
horses excellent ; but there are none here to till the ground,
nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, which might
be made from the spontaneous growth. This part of the
country does not yet answer the end for which it was crea-
ted. The time vvill come, when a dense population wilt
cover this country, who will render the sacrifice of prayer
and praise to our God.

On the 28th, we rode eleven miles, and came to the north
branch of the above mentioned river. After we had con-
structed a raft, we had a very diflicult time of crossing.
The water was continually and rapidly rising, and before
we finished crossing, the banks were overflowed to conside-
rable depth; and the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to
sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that we could not
proceed. After searching for a long time, a place was
found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when un-
loaded. We had to carry our baggage upon our shoulders
about fifteen rods, part of the way in water mid deep, going
iorward and returning until all was carried to better

MOUNDS OF THE WEST.

ground ; and then we had to ride a mile to tlie dry prairie
in water one and two feet deop. We rejoiced to find our-
selves once more on firm footing. Encamped by a stream
of clear water, which is rare in tiiis part of the country, and
especially at this season of the year. The waters of all this
portion of country, especially of the Missouri river and its
large tributaries, arc very turbid, owing to the nature of the
soil over which they pass. A pail full of water, standing
half an hour at the seasons of freshets, will deposit three-
eighths of an inch of sediment ; and yet the water, when
settled, appears to be of good quality.

Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces-
sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted
our breakfast, dinner, and supper. The bacon we cooked,
when we could obtain wood for fire ; but when " out of
sight of land," that is, when notliing but green grass could
be seen, we eat our bacon without cooking. A very few of
the simplest articles of furniture were sufiieient for our cul-
inary purposes. Tiie real wants of life are few, artificial
ones are numerous.

30th. Drew near to Council BIufFs, and passed down
from the high rolling prairie, through a vale two or three
miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and
widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section of
country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The mounds,
which some have called the work of unknown generations
of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and
magnitudes ; and thousands in number, and perhaps I may
say ten thousands. Some of these mounds were conical,
some eliptical, some square, and others parallelograms.
One group of these attracted my attention more tlian any
others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with

% i

Iffl

I li

^!''i

[it I

! 1:1

' !

MOUNDS OF THE WEST.

their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They
formed about two-thirds of a circle, with an area of two
hundred feet in diameter. If these were isolated, who would
not say they are artificial ? But when they are only a
group of ten thousand others, which have as much the ap-
pearance of being artificial, who will presume to say they
are the work of man ? But if they are the Avork of art,
and attest the number, the genius, and porseverartce of de-
parted nations, Avhose works have survived the lapse of ages,
their history is shrouded in darkness. *' The mind seeks in
vain for some clue to assist it in unraveling the mystery.
Was their industry stimulated by the desire to protect them-
selves against inroads of invaders, or were they them-
selves the a:ggressors ?" " Are they the monuments of wes-
tern Pharaohs, and do they conceal treasures which may
yet be brought to light ?" There is nothing plainer than
that they were never designed as works of defense. But
some, while they admit they were not designed for offensive
or defensive operations of belligerent powers, supposed they
were erected as " mausoleums, and that the difference in
their size was intended to convey an idea of the difference
in the rdative importance of those whose bones they cover."
If this theory is true, the La Trappe on the Mississippi,
which I had an opportunity of examining on my northern
tour, which is as much as one hundred and fifty feet high,
and covering about six acres, must inclose mighty bones, or
the bones of a mighty monarch. I would not be understood
to dissent from the belief, that there are artificial mounds in
the great valley of the west, but I believe there is a great
mistake upon this subject. It is said, by those who advocate
the belief, that they are the work of ancient nations, that
they present plain evidence of this, from the fact that they

' .1 111 J

PAWNKE MISSION.

. They
a of two
ho would
i only a
li the ap-
say they
k of art,
3e of de-
; of ages,
1 seeks in
mystery.
?ct them-
3y them-
es of wes-
lich may
ner than
se. But
offensive
)sed they
rence in
ifFerence
r cover."
ssissippi,
northern
eet high,
bones, or
ider stood
lounds in
5 a great
advocate
ions, that
that they

contain human bones, articles of pottery, and the like, which
evince that they were constructed for burying places of the
dead. That some of thein have been used for burying
places is undoubtedly true ; but may it not be questionable
whether they were constructed, or only selected for burying
places. Besides, if these mounds were works of human art,
I confess myself wholly at a loss to discover the traces of
design, which are always characteristic of every human ef^
fort. The absence of every other vestige of a mce extinct,
such as monuments, walls, cities, or ruins of any desci'ip-
tion, lead us to believe, that such a people must have lived
only to burrow in the earth, as these mounds alone are all
the traces they have left of their existence. Depopulate any
portion of the world, with which we are acquainted, and,
.save the savages who roam the desert or the prairie, many
centuries must elapse, before their monuments would en-
tirely cease to exist. No one, who has ever seen the im-
mense number of mounds scattered through the valley of the
Mississippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe, that a
five hundredth part of them are the work of man.

We crossed the Maragine river, which, though very deep,
was not so wide but that we constructed a bridge over it.
Proceeding many miles through the rich bottom lands of the
Missouri, we crossed this noble river over against Bellevue,
in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules across,
which, on account of the width of the river and the strength
of the current, required much effort* I went to the
agency house, where I was happy to find brethren Dun-
bar and Allis, missionaries to the Pawnees, under the
direction of the American Board of Commissioners for For-
eign Missions. There is a Baptist mission here, composed

of Rev. Moses Merrill and wife, Miss Brown, and a Chris-

V ' • 1

I ^ I

PAWNEE MISSION.

tian Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. Brainard's In-
dians. They are appointed by the Baptist Board to labor
among the Otoe Indians, about twenty-five miles from this
place, on the river Platte. These Indians are away from
their intended residence about half the, time, on hunting
excursions.

A little more than a half mile below the agency, the
American Fur Company have a fort, and, in connexion,
they have a farming establishment and large numbers of
cattle and horses, and a horse power mill for grinding corn.

111

ifiN

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.

CHAPTER III.

Continuance at Council Bluffs — inteiosting seen cry — Indian curiosity
— information obtained aboiit several Indian tribes — Spasmodic
Cholera — an Indian chief killed — leave Bellevue for the Black Hills
— storm of rain — Ireavy thunder storm — Elkliorn river, the country
around — Loups fork of the Platte — manner of encamping — Big Ax,
Pawnee chief — Indian feastirig — fourth of July — Messrs. Dunbar
and Allis — thunder storm — Indian Ornaments — effects of drunken,
ness — bite of a rattle-sna^e — ibuffalo seen. — prairie horse-fly — forks
of the Platte — want of wood — swiftness of antelopes — climate — thou,
sands of buffalo — badgers — prairie dog — interesting bluffs — old cas.
tic — the chimney, or beacon — an alarm — Ogallallah Indians, their
lodges — Black Hills.

Continued in this place tlireo weeks, waiting tlie move-
ments of the caravan, who made slow progress in preparing
their packages for the mountains. During our continuance
here, I fi'equently walked over the lulls bordering upon the
west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the pure air of
the rolling prairies, and to view the magnificent prospects
unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of those pro-
minences, the valley of the Missouri may be traced until
lost in its far winding course amons the bluffs. Three miles
below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable stream from the
north-west, winding its way round to the east, and uniting
with the Missouri, six miles above the confluence of tlio
Platte coming from the west. These flow through a rich
alluvial plain, opening to the south and south-west as far
as the eye can reach. Upon these meadows are seen feed-
jng some few hundreds of horses and mules, and a herd of

;i( ' ;

» \ L

I. '

Jr );l

I •.■)

-J' .

MISSIONAUY PKOUPECTS.

li I

cattle ; and some fields of corn which diversify the scenery.
The north is covered with ^\ood.s, which are not less valua-
ble than the rich vales. But few places can present a pros-
pect more interesting, and when a civilized population shall
add the fruits of their industry, but few can be more desi-
rable.

In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and eon-
version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn
of their native character, that the first impressions which
the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important
in their bearings on successful laborp afterwards. In things
about which they are conversant, they are men ; but about
other things, they are children ; and like children, the an-
nouncement of a new subject awakens their attention, their
curiosity, and their energies ; and it has been remarked" by
a Methodist missionary who has labored among the Indians,
that many seemed to embrace the gospel on its first being
offered, and that those among the adults, who failed to do so,
were rarely converted. If, fjom any motives, or from any
cause, instruction is delayed, and their expectations are dis-
appointed, they relapse into their native apathy, from which
it is difficult to arouse them.

We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this place,
to collect much information about the Indians in the Sioux
country, from Maj. P. the agent appointed by government
to the Yanktons, a band of the Sioux. He appears to be
not only intelligent and candid, but also well disposed to-
wards Indian improvement. The following is the substance
of the information which he gave us in regard to several
tribes to the north and north-west of this place : that the
Omaha ws are situated upon the Missouri, about one hundred
and fifty miles above this place, and number about two

SIOUX INDIANS.

scenery.
ss valua-
nt a pros-
tion shall
lore desi-

ami eon-
can learn
ms which
important
In things
but about
fi, the an-
;ion, their
larked' by
} Indians,
rst being
1 to do so,
from any
s are dis-
)m which

lis place,

le Sioux

k^ernment

ars to be

losed to-

ubstance

several

that the

hundred

jout two

fcl

■.ii

th(Jusand. They have been well disposed towards the
Whites, but, owing to their intercourse with traders and
trappers, and abuses which they have received from them,
they are becoming more vicious in their habits, and less
friendly. Yet, kind treatment would conciliate their favor,
so that there wouid be no reason to fear but that a mission
might be estal>lished among them with fair prospects of suc-
cess.

The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of
about two thousand people. Their village is to be located on
the Verri^jiiJon river, where it unites with the Missouri from
the ncM rt ftV Maj. P. thinks this will be a very eligible place
for ^^ssionary station, and says he will do all in his powc?
to aJwsuch an enterprise.

The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at
the confluence of the L'eau qui coytre, number six or pight
hundred, and speak the same language as the Oinahaws.

The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux
river and that on the south of the Ucau qui courc, as high as
the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed under the
general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhabited by the
following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, already men-
tioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, Siones, and
the Hankpapes, who course east and west from the Missis-
sippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far south as the
river Platte. The real numberfflpjie several bands cannot
be correctly ascertained, but profe^^£ it is from forty to sixty
thousand. Their habits are wandering, an15 they rely ex-
clusively upon the chase for ^bsistence. Their principal
trade is in buflalo robes. The traders have for many years
maintained a friendly intercourse with them, and generally
speaking, they are much attached to white men.

ii*

THE SPASMODIC CHOLERA.

:. I

~iSli'<"

■'^.

^ •

^ ill! •■

The Mandans are a much more stationary people thW
ahnost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and
the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is
good ', but on account of repeated ill treatment, vvljich they
have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious,
and are losing confidence in white men.

Our stay in this place had been protracted much beyond
our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival the spas-
modic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignity.
The weather was very warm, and there were showers from
day to day. The intemperate habits of the meHmand their
'manner of living, probablj' had a tendency to TWbpe the
disease. Three of the company died; and severaW k hers
barely survived, through the blessing of God uponTTO as-
siduous attentions of Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the
free . use of powerful medicines. And, had it not been for
his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and
the caravan would have failed of going to the place of ren-
dezvous. This was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged.
This alarming disease was the means of effecting our de-
parture sooner that it otherwise would have taken place.
It was necessary to hasten to the higher prairies, as the
only prospect of escaping the io-rther ravages of the dis-
ease. Not a single new case occurred after we recom-
meneed our journey. This afflictive scourge, so far as it
respected Dr. W. a^^Hself, was providential. The as-
sistance we rendered J^^RK, and the medical skill of the
Doctor, convened those into permanent friends, who had so
disliked the restraints whiJb our presence imposed upon
them, that, as they afterwards confessed, they had- plotted
our death, and intended on the first convenient occasion to
put their purpose in execution.

f 't

MURDER OF A CHIEF.

cople t)i|UH
luntry, ami
ig thein is
^vhich they
su-spicious,

ich beyond
il the spas,
malignity.
3wers from
mind their

eraBfc t liers
Donliro as-
Lte, and the
ot been for
x;rsed, and
ace of ren-
lowledged.
ng our de-
ken place,
•ies, as the
jf the dis-
we recom-
5o far as it
The as-
kill of the
vho had so
»osed upon
lad- plotted
iccasion to

ieY '

Whilst at Bellcvue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half-
blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under
very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family
were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or
seven men, half intoxicated, went down to his house in the
night, called him up, took liim away a half mile, and shot
him with six balls, scalped liim, and left him unburied.
The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a
bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who
authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will
remember this, and probably take revenge on some inno-
cent persons. Tliis, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are
often produced. While wc charge the Indians with invete-
rate ferociousness and inhuman brutality, Vife forget. the too
numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon them, which
incite them to revenge. They cannot apprehend and do
justice to such offenders. Or if they could, would it not be
publislied as a gross Indian murder and aggression, and a
war of extermination be commenced against them. When
Indian, ofiences are proclaimed, we hear only one side of the
story, and the other will not be heard until the last great day.

M0nd4^, June 22d. After so long delay, we re-corn-
menced our journey for the " far west." The Black Hills
are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started
yesterday. We passed over a rich extensive prairie, but
so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream through
the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy,
cold rain, in consequence of which I became much chilled.
Overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a high
prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it was dif-
ficult to make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of
corn, and some bacon for supper. Th^ change from the

•PI "''

J/l

A STORM.

\ !

il' 1 1'

comforts to the hare necessaries of life was trying ; hut
when I had wrapped myself in my hlankets and laid down
upon the ground to repose for the night, I felt thankful to
God for his goodness. '

Being now heyond all wiii'e inhahitants, in an Indian
country, and not knowing what the eventful future may
unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests
for the good of the perishing h oathen, if I could be instru-
mental, of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life
or death, I thought I could say, ''thy will be done." Felt
"M'Qng confidence, tl.at (4od would protect aiid provide for
us, ;and derived great consolation from the promise, " Lo, I
am with you always." The very pelting of the storm upon
our, tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to
awaken the feeling that God wis near.

On the 23d, the storm stilf continued, and we did not re-
move our encampment.

Towards noon on the 24th, went forward on our wav and
crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much delay to
get the baggage, wagons, and animals over. We did not
find ^ suitable place for encamping where we could be ac-
commodated Vv'ith wood and Water until about su|^et^' and
before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which had
been gathering ibr a long time, came down upon us with
great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The ani-
mals of the caravan fled in different (^'ections, some packed
and some unpacked. I had only time to unpack my mule
aud let him go, and it was with much difficulty I could hold
my horse, which had become almost frantic under the beat-
ing hail, nor did I escape without some contusions. The
lightning was very frequent, and the thunder was almost
one continual roar. After a while the fury of the storm

A FRIKNDLY JIEETING.

abated, and in the dark wc pitched our tent and got our
baf^ffaifc into it, but were not able to make a lire. We took
such supper as we could provide with our coarse bread and
bacon, without light and without fire, and laid ourselves
down to rest. During the night there wore several showers
whicli created rivulets, some of whicli found their way un-
der our tent. Towards morning wc slept, and arose some-
wliat refresiied.

The morning of the 25tii was very pleasant, and atTorded
a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the caravan
to collect together their packs of goods, which were scat-
tered over the prairie. After having spent the forenoon in
drying and adjusting them, we went forward and arrived at
the Ellii''r, a very considerable river. For conveyance
over this river, we constructed a boat of a wagon body, so
covered with undressed skins as to make it nearly water
tight. The method was very good, and we commenced
crossing, ; ut night came on before we finished, and there-
fore we encamped on the east side. The country here is
excellent, and tolerably supplied with wood.

On the 26th, continued carrying over our baggage, and
finished crossing at half after twelve, after which we trav-
eled ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the night.

On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey,
and made good progress until three, P. M. when we met
Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, re-
turning from the Blaw Hills. When mountain traders
meet under such circumstances there nmst be mutual ex-
changes of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated
than can be gone through with in the parsing '* how do you
do." The two caravans encamped, in due form, and at a
respectful distance from eacii other^

■"rl

:lli

t ■

US '

i\ !■

FUTUIIR PROSPECTS.

i I

Si, 1

iSabbatli, 28tli. TIic caravans continued here tlirouf^li
the (lay. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to attend
to devotional exorcises in our tent.

On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance up
Shell creek. As a traveler, I should bo guilty of neglect
. of duty, if I should not give a description of this section of

1^ country, belonging to the Otocs on the cast, and the Pawnees

on the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed the
Elkhorn, between this river and the Platte, which are here
about ten miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is rich bot-
tom land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. No
country could be more inviting to the farmer, with only one
exception, the \vant of wood land. The latitude is sufficiently
high to be healthy ; and as the climate grows warmer as
we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped moun-
tains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced east of
the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and proba.
bly is not far distant, wjien this country will be covered with
a dense population. The earth was created for the habita-
tion of man, and for a theatre, on which God will manifet'l
his perfections in his moral government among his moral
creatures, and theJrefoi'e the earth, according to. divine pre-
diction, shall be given to the people of God. Although in-
fidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accom-
plish his designs, and fulfil evfery promise contained in bis
word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will
not continue to be the Vvandering ground of a few thousand
Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation ; nor
will ixiillions pf tons of grass grow up to rot upon the ground
or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the
prairie, to disincumber it of its spontaneous burden. The
herds of bufiblo which once fattened upon these meadows

Loui's i'okk: of tiik tlattk.

r.i

ion : nor

are goiio ; uiid \\\v deer which otico cropped the gruss have
disappeared ; and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall
solitude reiun here till the end of time ? No: hero shall
be heard the din of'busineHS, and the churcli-<!;oin^' bell shall
sound far and wide. The questiun is, by uhoni HJiall this
region of country be inhabited I It is plain that the Indi.
ans under their present circumstances will never nuiltiply
and fdl this land. They must be brought under the influ-
ence of civilization and Christianity, ot- they will continue
to melt away, until nothing will remain of them but relics
found in museums, and some historical records. Philan-
thropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf.

We were awakened on tho 30th, at the firsc breaking of
the day, by the usual call, " out, out ; gear up your mules."
We traveled until one o'clock, P. M. more than eight hours,
when we halted and breakfasted. We went again on our
way, and cani*^ to the Loups fork of the Platte, and stopped
for the night. Most of the country over which we traveled
to-day was a rolling prairie. There is nothing hi this sec-
tion of country to interest the geologist. I did not see a
single stone, after passing the Papillon to this place, except-
ing a few small ones in the place where ^e crossed that
stream, and which on that account is called Rockford. It
is one of the peculiarities of the dialect of the people in the
westernmost states, to call small stones rocks. And there-
fore they speak of throwing a rock at a bird, or at a man.
There are no forests in these western regions. The mead-
ows spread out almost without bouniis. There are only
here and there some clumps of trees ; and the rivers and
smaller streams are skirted with cotton wood, elms and wil-
lows. Whatever propriety there once was, there is none
now, in calling the Indians, children of the forest.

'!l;t

,M'

••V.1,

HI'

MANNER OF ENCAMPING.

it- ■ m'l

The thermometer stood to-day, at noon, at 81°.

Wednesday, July 1st. I rested the last night as quietly
as I should have done in a civilized country, and upon a
good bed, and was cheerful in committing myself to God, to
awake in this, or in the eternal world, as he shall direct.

We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form-
ing a cone. Af n' setting this, we stow away our baggage
so as to leave a space in the centre for our lodgings. My
bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon
this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and
my portmanteau constitutes my pillow.

We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, and
unexpectedly found a good fording place, where we crossed
the river, which in this place is nearly a mile wide. After
going a few miles up the river, we halted for the night.
The manner of our encamping, is to form a large hollow
square, encompassing an area of about an acre, having the
river on one side ; three wagons forming a part of another
side, coming down to the river ; and three more in the same
manner on the opposite side ; and the packages so arranged
in parcels, about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear, and
the sides not occupied by the wagons. The horses and
mules, near the middle of the day, are turned out under
guard, to feed for two hours ; and the same again towards
night, until after sunset, when they are taken up and brought
into the hollow square, and fastened with ropes twelve feet
long, to pickets driven firmly into the ground. The men
are divided into small companies, stationed at the .several
parcels of goods and wagons, where they Avrap themselves
in their blankets and rest for the night ; the whole how-
ever are formed into six divisions to keep guard, relieving
each other every two hours. This is to prevent hostile

PAWNEE FEASTS.

Indians from falling upon us by surprise, or coming into the
camp by stealth and taking away either horses or packages
of goods. We were permitted, by favor, to pitch our tent
next to the river, half way between the two wings, which
made our situation a little more retired.

Nothing of special interest occurred on the second. Ori
the third, we passed the villages of the Tapage and Republi-
can Pawnee Indians. These Indians have dwellings which
appear substantial and somewhat adapted to comfort. Many
of the Pawnee Loups came to us, and received us with
great civility and kindness. Big Ax, their second chief, had
charge of this party. He is a man of dignified appearance,
and his countenance is expressive of intelligence and bene-
volence. He is very friendly to white men. These Indians
were going out upon their summer hunt, by the same route
we were pursuing, and were not willing we should go on
before them, lest we should frighten away the buffalo.

They manifested their friendship by inviting us to feasts 5
and as we may attend half a dozen in a day without being
surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Big Ax
gave the first invitation ; and as it is not customary for
those who provide the feast to sit down with their guests,
he and his associates sat in din;nified silence on one side of
the lodge, while those of us who partook of the feast, occu-
pied the centre. The daughters of Big Ax served us on
the occasion, and bountifully helped us to boiled corn and
beans. Such are their customs, that to avoid giving offence,
we must eat all that is set before us, or take it away, and
Mr. Fontenelle took what remained. In the evening we
were invited to two others. The first consisted of boiled
corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of boiled buffalo

meat. We also gave the principal chiefs a feast, setting

.-.il

I i\

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{■' v|

CHANGES OF THE RIVER.

'f. '

. i

ni'l:.

before them all the variety which our bacon and coarse
bread could furnish, having it in our power to add a dish of
coffee, of which luxury we partook for this once on our
whole journey.

Amidst the uniformity of prairie scenery, there is yet
some variety. It was curious to mark the alterations which
time and flood have made in the channel of this river.
Formerly, perhaps not a few centuries ago, the river ran a
hundred feet higher than at present, and it is probably
owing to the yielding nature of the soil that its waters are
so very turbid. The water of the Loups fork, however,
comparatively speaking, is quite clear. This section of
country offers an interesting field for botanical research.
Since crossing the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different
species of grass, most of which are entirely new. The
flowering plants are very numerous and beautiful, and espe-
cially the rose, which is found of almost every hue. Ther-
mometer, at noon, 90°.

July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the
States. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of our
forefathers : their audiences catch the spirit of patriotism.
Not so with our company. Having almost expatriated
themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth-day ; and
knowing that their days of indulgence would be seasons of
reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How suitable
would be a rational religious expression of gratitude to
Heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which are the com*
mon demonstrations of joy on such occasions. Thermome-
ter 96° at noon.

On the fifth, which was the Sabbath, the caravan went
forward a few miles and then encamped. The Indians were
constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was pain-

MISSIONARIES.

ful to witness their poor degraded condition, ignorant of God
and salvation, and, for want of a knowledge of their
language, to be unable to point them to the Savior, or teach
them their obligations to their Maker, and their duty to turn
to him with their whole heart. I hope and pray that the
Pawnee mission may prosper; that the disposition which
Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go with the Indians
and live as they live, may be followed up, until their teach-
ing and influence are felt, and the Indians shall locate them-
selves upon their lands, under the influence of Christianity
and civilization. The mode which Messrs. D. and A. have
adopted of going with the Indians where they go, appears to
be the right one, and must be generally adopted to bring the
numerous wandering nations and tribes to the knowledge
of Christ.

It " f>11 important that the missionary be able to speak to
the ' ■u h n in the llanguage wherein they were bom. It is
also important that the Indians settle down and cultivate the
soil ; but how can they be induced to do this before they are
taught ? Do any say, by an interpreter ? An interpreter
may be employed for awhile, but the missionary must be-
come, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can
he not learn the Indian language as well as the trader and
hunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-denial.

On the sixth, we left the Loups fork, very early in the
morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our
course south-west for the Platte river. Towards evening,
we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, "which continued
through most of the night ; but, protected by our tent, we
slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us ; and in
our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a
sensible loss.

' ;l

BIG AX, A PAWNEE CHIEF.

J: • 11

' '

After we eame to the Platte^ we pursued our way up the
river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indi-
cates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility, but
still is very good. We were prevented from making the
progress we might have done, if the Indians would have
permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of the cara-
van began to complain of the delay, and had reason to do so,
having nothing to eat but boiled corn, and no way to obtain
any thing more before finding buffalo.

The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good,
but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments, and not
having the means of gratifying their vanity as civilized peo-
ple have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their
persons ; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass
and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers,
and claws of witd beasts ; the claws of a grizzly bear are an
ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves are
in high estimation. But their most universal and particu-
lar ornament is painting their faces with vermilion.

These heathen, like all others, arc ignorant of the benign
influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many
interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old men and
women. The women are compelled to do all the work —
the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few horses,
when they journey, they place burdens upon the old men and
women, and even upon the blind and lame — and their dogs.
I did not see among these Indians a single person having
any natural deformity, nor any one who appeared to be de-
ficient in common sense.

July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by
me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse with
any man and tell him about the Savior, and, from the ex-

F
c

ATTEMPT TO MURDER.

pression of his countenance, I thought he desired to be in-
structed. But the gift of tongues was not imparted to me,
and we could only converse with the language of signs,
which is far more intelligible than I had anticipated.

Capt. Fontenelle, by a large present, purchased of the In-
dians the privilege of going on to-morrow without them.
Our men could hardly have been kept in subordination, if
they had not consented.

Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncommon
storm of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and
mules could not be controlled, and turned and fled in all di-
rections before the storm. The whole caravan was scattered
over the prairie ; but when the storm abated, they were
again collected without much difficulty, and nothing was
lost. If any hostile band of Indians had been about us, it
would have been easy for them to have made us a prey.
But the Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near
for our defence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand
and truly sublime.

Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God is
our preserver, and how desirable it is, that his mercies should
be had in grateful remembrance, and that the portion of time,
which he has set apart as holy, should be observed as such.
The caravan travelled a part of the day, but were under the
necessity of stopping in consequence of rain, which wet their
packages. It is worthy of notice, that there have been vari-
ous providences, which have thus far prevented them from
traveling much upon the Sabbath. But this day has been
one of great confusion and wickedness. In consequence of
the men being drenched with rain, whiskey was dealt out
freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of them became

much excited, and one, who took an active part in killing

ili'Ml

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'':', '. ■'"

mi]M

: M

MEDICINAL PLANT.

I !i

r. ,

Garrio, stabbed a man, with full intent to have pierced his
heart ; but the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside and
^ ily made a deep flesh wound.

I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed
a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in
his tabernacle.

July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor a
solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, that
have the appearance of being under good cultivation. We
see no fields of grain, secured from the beasts of the earth
by fences, nor habitations of civilized men, but meadows
adorned with a great variety of plants, some of which ap-
pear to be gregarious. Often some acres are diversified
with great variety of colors and species.

There are two species of plants which are said to be a

sovereign remedy against the poison of the rattle-snake, the

virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing.

One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew

it the poison had so far progressed, that both the foot and

leg had become much inflamed and very painful. One of

these plants was applied to the parts affected, and at once

the man was convalescent, and in a few hours was well.

The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue flag,

except that they are serrated. The healing properties are

contained in the roots, which are bruised and applied to the

affected parts. Rattle-snakes are net numerous. These

and other reptiles are prevented from multiplying, by the

fires which every year run over the prairies.

On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer-
fulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to
men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was no
indifferent event. From the immense herds of these wild ani-^

BUFFALO, THEIR APPEARANCE.

mals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature, we were
to derive our subsistence. Although several were seen to-
day, yet our hunters were not successful in obtaining many.

I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware
that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to
our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lan-
cet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off*, the blood
immediately gushes ou' Vhen the caravan is in close
company, there be aboi vo hundred horst ' .. mules,
the number of the flies are so divided that they are more
tolerable ; but when for any purpose a horse is separated
from the company, he is severely bitten by them. On one
occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing place over
a deep muddy stream of water, they came around my horse
in such swarms that he became frantic, and I was obliged
to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse left
alone in the season of these flies would be killed by them.

The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon
arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of
buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent
meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, neck,
and heads, make a very majestic appearance, and if their
natures were unknown, would be terrific. But they are
timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure any
person, except in self-defense, when wounded and closely
pursued. Their strength is great ; and, although they look
clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a horse of more
than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any considerable time.

The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is
very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight ; but at
a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom lands,
bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scenery. The

'■V

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.1,

1.' I'.'*

^m
''-m

DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS.

i -i

entire absence of forests in a large space of country around,
is a deficiency which cannot be v .sily supplied ; but prob-
ably forest trees might be cultivated to advantage. Is it
not highly probable that mineral coal will be found here as
well as upon the prairies in the western states ? We found
no wood yesterday, nor to-day, a; ' probably shall not for
some days to come ; and therefore we have been under the
necessity of making our fires with the dry dung of the buf-
falo. The most thoroughly weather-beaten is selected, and
proves to be a better substitute for common fuel than we
Flad anticipated. Although we are now where we had fears
of finding the Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief
has been mentioned, and who have been' residing near this
place for several months past, yet we have seen no Indians
since we left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone
far up the south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United
States dragoons, under the command of Col. Dodge, who
are on their way to call them to account for their conduct
towards white men, and to f; with them a treaty of peace.
But they intend to keep out oi the way of the dragoons, and
therefore we hope to pass unmolested.

We took our course up the north-west Fork of the Platte,
and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual
form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack
of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about
us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in
good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls.
We all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the
sentinel's fire, we might in less than a moment be ready for
action ; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the
first breaking of the day we were awakened with the cus-
tomary call of the guide.

1 H .

ANTELOPES.

Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, and
nearer than previously. They are less shy than those we
first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but less
beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have seen for
several days past, are becoming very numerous, and their
speed exceeds that of any animal I have ever seen. Our
hounds can do notlung in giving them the chase ; for the
dogs are so soon left far in the rear, that they do not follow
more than ten or twenty rods, before they return, looking
ashamed of their defeat. Our liunters occasionally take
some by coming upon them by stealth. When they are
surprised, they start forward a very small space, then turn,
and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at the
object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whis-
tling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as
upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far more beau-
tiful. Tl;iough they are of different colors, yet they are
generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent eye. Their
flesh is good for food, and about equal to venison.

July 17th. We did not go on our way as early this
morning as usual, having been detained by breaking an
axle-tree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming
more hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to the
river. Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction,
and they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pas-
ture. The thermometer stood at noon at 88°. Encamped
a little below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars
scattered over them, which promise a better supply of fuel.

Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early
hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From
the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c.
it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of conn.

^'A

■I- .
i. ■
■I-

1 'haji' '

.1 . f^i

-$ «

SHOOTING BUFFALO.

I;! !' J

try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New
England States. As we advance, the flowering plants are
becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the
day is very warm, yet tlie nights and mornings are more
cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not per-
ceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from
the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of light brown oolor is
found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which might
be easily worked and to any extent. Very small black
gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, have been nu-
merous and very annoying, and for several days we rode
with silk handkerchiefs closely tied over our faces to pro-
tect us from their poisonous bite.

July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day, and
our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at
them ; but it was well for the buffalo that they made poor
shots. I can hardly reconcile it with a good conscience, to
trifle with the life even of the most insignificant animals, yet,
for once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my horse
in the chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, and
would have rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, had I
not held him in check. At that time, not being sufficiently
acquainted with this species of amusement, and intending
to make sure of my victim, I dismounted in order to take a
more steady aim than I could have otherwise done ; and by so
doing, as our guide afterwards informed me, placed myself
in imminent danger ; for the animal, if wounded, often turns
upon his aotagonist to retaliate his injuries. Fortunately,
though I wounded one, he did not rise upon me, and I re-
turned to the caravan unconscious of danger.

Badgers mhabit this part of the country, and from the
many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell.

BADGERS — PRAIRIE DOGS.

I re-

the
Iwell-

ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen
only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their
burrows, and run into them on the least approach of danger.
The badger is of the genus ursus, about the size of the mar-
mot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery gray
color, with short legs, and its whole aspect is interesting. I
did not have an opportunity to learn many of its habits. A
small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in this section
of country. It takes its name, not from its appearance, but
from its barking, which is like that of a very small dog. It
is of a brown color, and its fur is of superior fineness. It
is very shy and difficult to be taken. Was it not for this
last circumstance, I should think it might be an important
article or traffic.

We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting
bluffs composed of indurated clay ; many of them very high,
with perpendicular sides, an i of almost every imaginable
form. Some appeared like strong fortifications with high
citadels ; some like stately edifices with lofty towers. I
had never before seen any thing like them of clay formation.
And what addb to their beauty is, that the clay of which
they are composed, is nearly white. Such is the smoothness
and whiteness of the perpendicular sides and offsets ; and
such the regularity of their straight and curved lines, that
one can hardly believe that thej'^ are not the work of art.

It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at noon,
at 90°, and at five o'clock, P. M. at 100°. There were no
prairie winds as usual. Almost every day winds blow over
the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. They gene-
rally commence about eight in the morning, and continue
through the day. These winds render the traveling com-
fortable, although the thermometer may range high.

THE OLD f'ASTLE.

I'm !

Wc encamped to-day in the iioighborliood of a great nat-
ural curiosity, which, for the sake of a name, I shall call
the old castle. It is situated upon the south aide of tho
Platte, on a plain, some miles distant from any elevated
land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more
than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width of
the river, all the appearance of an old enormous building,
somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing walls,
the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and almost the
very windows ; and large guard-houses, standing some rods
in front of the main building. You unconsciously look
around for the enclosures, but they are all swept away by the
lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but they have disap-
peared ; all is silent and solitary. Although you correct
your imagination, and call to remembrance, that you are
beholding the work of nature, yet, before you are aware,
the illusion takes you again, and your curiosity is excited to
know who built this fabric, and what have become of the
by-gone generations. I found it impossible to divest myself of
such impressions. The longer and the more minutely I ex-
amined it, the more I saw to admire ; and it reminded me
of those descriptions of power and grandeur in ruins, of
■which we read of ancient times and nations.

Encamped at noon of the 22d, near another of nature's
wonders. It has been called the chinmey ; but I should
say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance
to what was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to have
a near view, although in a land of dangers, I concluded to
take an assistant and pass over the river to it. The river
where we crossed was about a mile wide, shallow and full
of quicksand, but we passed it without any difficulties. We
rode about three miles over a level plain, and came to the

AN ALARM.

■at nat-
lU call

of tho
levatcd
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nost the
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ily look
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you arc

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uins, of

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luded to
ic river
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We
e to the

base. Thi'^ distanco from the other side of tlin river did not
appear more than a mile, so deceptive arc distances over
jdaiiiH without any lamhiiarks. 'I'his beacon hill has a
conical formed base of about half a mile in circumference)
and one hundred and iifty feet in jjoijiht ; and above this a
\ perpendicular column, twelve feet s(juare, and ei<rhty feet

hi<fh ; makincj the wliole heij^ht about two hundred and
thirty feet. We left our horses at tho base, and ascended
to tjje perpendicular. It is formed of indurated clay or marl,
and in some parts is petrified. It is of a liglit chocolate, or
rufous colour, in some parts white. Near tin top were
some handsome stalactites, at which my assistant shot,
and broke off some pieces, of which I have taken a ;Miall
specimen. We descended, and haviufi; finished my surve; ,
had just mounted our horses, when we saw two bands of
buffalo, six or eight hundred in number, eominfi; full speed
towards us, taking their course down the river. We kn3U
somebody must be pursning them, and as, from indications
for two days past, we had suspected Indians near, we thought
it would be the safest for us to make and secure a speedy
retreat to the caravan, and set offin haste for the river, which
at the nearest point was two miles distant. Very soon we
saw a man on horseback coming full speed towards us— he
stopped and gave a signal for others behind him to hasten on>
and at once we saw a band of men coming full rush. We
put our horses to their utmost speed, and wu n we thought
our retreat to the river fully secured, we stopped and
took an observation with a large spy-glass, which we
had taken the precaution to have with us. and found they
were white men, who had come from h Ibrt of the American
Fur Company at the Black Hills, to meet the caravan. Mr.

Fontenelle, the commander of the caravan, saw the move-

■U«

1. 1

SCOTT S BLUFFS.

: ||jj ;;|

ment, was alarmed for our safety, and came out in all haste,
with a number of armed men to our assistance. Rut all re-
sulted in friends meeting friends. There were some Ogal-
lallah Indians near us, who came to our camp in the even-
ing. Thermometer 90°.

On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped
near Scott's blufFs. These are the termination of a high
range of land running from south to north. Thev are very
near the river, high and abrunt, and what is worthv of notice,
there is a pass through the range a short distance back from
the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular
sides two or three hundred feet high. It appears as though
a part of the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a few rods
to the north. Instead of journeying, the naturalist would
desire weeks to examine the interesting scenery of this sec-
tion of country, and the more minute his examination the
more would he find to gratify his curiosity.

This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so
that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some
places in large quantities in a crystalized state. Our hor-
ses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for
common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90°.

While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our
horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were
preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were
alarmed with the call, " secure your animals ! secure your
animals !" I looked around to discover the cause of the
alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half distance, some
thirty or forty Indians coming on horseback at full speed.
We had not more than half secured our animals and pre-
pared for defence, when the Indians were close upon us ;
whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they werf>

THE OGALLALLAHS.

nearly within rifle shot, when, according to the customary
expression of friendship, they fired their guns into the air,
and then rushed into our camp, and exchanged salutations
of peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their
chiefs, clad in their war habiliments, and presenting some-
what of a terrific appearance. The chiefs dined with us,
and v.ere very talkative among themselves ; for, not hav-
ing any good interpreter, we could not join in conversation
with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly, aiid
to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole village
was only a few hours travel ahead of us, going to the Black
Hills for the purpose of trading.

On the *25th, the heat was very oppressive in the middle
of the day, there not being as much wind as usual. Ther-
mometer 92®. Towards evening, we came to the main vil-
lage of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two thou-
sand persons. These villages are not stationary, but move
from place to place, a^s iaclination or convenience may dic-
tate. Their lodges are comfortable, and easily transported.
They are constructed of eight or ten poles about eighteen
feet long, set up in a circular form, the small ends fastened
together, making an aj)ex, and the large ends are spread
out so as to enclose an area of about twenty feet in diame-
ter. The whole is covered with their coarse skins, which
are elk, or buffalo, taken when they are not good for robes.
A fire is made in the centre, a hole being left in the top of
the lodge for the smoke to pass out. All that they have for
household furniture, clothing, and skins for beds, is deposi-
ted around according to their ideas of propriety and conve-
nience. Generally not more than one family occupies a
lodge. These are the finest looking Indians I have ever
seen. The men are generally tall and well proportioned ;

J-'ifl

■ %

A SABBATH AMONG THEM.

1 I

"«',ti

the women are trim, and less pendulous than is common
among Indian women, and all were well dressed and clean-
ly. They came around us in multitudes, and manifested
great curiosity to see whatever we had. I did not know
why, but my boots were particularly examined ; probably
they had never seen any before, as moccasons are worn,
not only by Indians, but also by traders and hunters.

Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to
the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the
Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an
opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal-
lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and
observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason
why I was differently employed from others. I endeavored
to make them understand by the language of signs, that I
was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to wor-
ship him. After spending some time in teaching them to
read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn,
which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand,
and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, we
want to know what all this means. My spirit was pained
within me, and I anxiously desired to understand their lan-
guage, that I might tell them about Christ, the only Savior.
The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, why will not some
of the many Christian young men of the east, exercise so
much self-denial, as to come and teach them the way of sal-
vation ? In such a labor what Christian would not glory ?
And if there should be any tribulations attendant on the enter-
prise, would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations ?

At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile
and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped
near the fort in our usual form.

P": Iv

BLACK HILLS.

CHAPTER IV.

Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo dance — the desire of Indians
for instruction — met the chiefs in council — recommenced our jour.
nsy for rendezvous — anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red
Bute — traces of grizzly bears — geology — Rock Independence —
Rocky Mountains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains
— " thunder spirits" gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado.

The Black Hills do not derive their name from any thing
peculiar in the color of the soil trnd rocks of which they are
composed, but are so called from being covered with shrubby
cedars, which give them a dark appearance when seen at
a distance. The alluvial soil upon the rivers and in the
valleys is very good, but upon the higher lands and hills,
it is thin and rather barren, and in many parts full of stones,
which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of
various kinds and forms. One spur of the Rocky Moun-
tains is seen from this place, which is forty or fifty miles
distant, and is probably five thousand feet high.

At this place the caravan halted, and according to imme-
morial usage, the men were allowed a " day of indulgence,"
as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits as much as
they please, and conduct as they choose. Not unfrequently
the day terminates with a catastrophe of some kind, and
to-day one of the company shot another with the full inten-
tion to have killed him. The ball entered the back, and
came out at the side. The wounded man exclaimed, •' I am
a dead man ;" but after a pause, said, " No, I am not hurt."

The other immediately seized a rifle to finish the work, but

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IILIIiil

BUFFALO DANCE.

was prevented by the bystanders, who wrested it from him
and discharged it into the air.

July 28th. Tiie day of indulgence being past, a quiet
day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by conse-
quent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so high
yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The men were
seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could scarcely
be moused to the business of making repairs and arrange-
ments for the long journey yet before us. The Indians
were active, and manifested a disposition to be sociable and
kind, and also to open a trade with us in various articles,
such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; and desired
in return, knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c.

Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer stood
in the middle of the day at 98*^, but the heat was relieved
by the usual prairie wmds.

On the 29th, the Ogallallah Indians who accompanied us,
liad a buffalo and a dog dance, the real object of which I
could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from
some superstitious notion that their success in hunting de-
pended on these lites, or whether the custom originated in
the gratitude of their hearts for past successes, or more pro-
bably as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I wit-
nessed the first mentioned ceremony, and was content to
dispense with the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large
number of young men, dressed with the skins of the neck
and head of buffalos with their horns on, moved round in a
dancing march. They shook their heads, imitated the low
bellowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same
time men and women sung a song, accompanied with the
beating of a sort of drum. I cannot say I was much amused to
see how well they could imitate brute beasts, while ignoranv

THE OGALLALLAHS.

of God and salvation. The impressive enquiry was con-
stantly on my mind, what will become of their immortal
spirits ? Rational men imitating beasts, and old gray-head-
ed men marshaling the dance ! and enlightened white men
encouraging it by giving them intoxicating spirits, as a re-
ward for their good performance. I soon retired, and was
pleased to find that only a small number of the Indians took
any part in the dance.

An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, came
to me again to-day, and manifested that he wished me to
instruct him. I endeavored to communicate to his mind
some ideas of God, and sang the hymn, " Watchman, tell
us of the night." He and those with him, shook hands with
me as a token of their satisfaction, and left me. He soon
returned, however, bringing others, that they too, might
hear what he had heard with so much apparent pleasure,
and they again shook hands with me. This was several
times repeated. These Indians appear not only friendly to
white men, but kind in their intercourse with each other,
and in no instance did I witness any quarrels among them.
Their minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, their per-
sons are finely formed, and many of them are truly " na-
ture's grenadiers.'"' The women arc graceful, and their
voices are soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised
to see tall young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode,
walking arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I
had not expected to see among those whom we term
"savages." It is true that they are heathen, in all the
guilt of sin and destitute of the knowledge of God, and
the hopes of the gospe\. but in politeness and decency, as
well as in many other respects, they ajre very unlike
the frontier Indians, who have been corrupted and degra-

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■•' ' ' . iS'i

COUNCIL WITH THE SIOTJX.

ded by their acquaintance with ardent spirits, and wicked
white men.

On the 30tli, we met in council with the chiefs of this
tribe, to lay before them the object of our tour, and to know
if they would wish to have missionaries sent among them
to teach them to read and write, and especially how to
worship God. They expressed much satisfaction with the
proposal, and said they would do all they could to make
their condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, that
this community of the Sioux would be a promising field for
laborers. They are inquisitive, and their language is dis-
tinct and sonorous.

On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81°.

August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, we re-
commenced our journey, and the next point to which we
direct our course is across the Rocky Mountains, where
the general rendezvous will be held. Our wagons were
left at the fort of the Black Hills, and all our goods were
packed upon mules. Several of our company went out into
various parts of this country to hunt and trap, but as many
more joined us for the mountains, so that our number is not
diminished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped at the fort, and Mr.
Fitz Patrick took his place in charge of the caravan. We
had received during our journey to this place, many kind
attentions from Mr. F. as well as the privilege of traveling
under his protection, for which we otfered him a remunera-
tion, but he declined it, saying, " If any one is indebted,
it is myself, for you have saved my life, and the lives of my
men." We shall gratefully remember their kindness.

Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devo-
tional exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God's
house.

'iW

ANTHRACITE COAL.

We found on the 3d but very little grass for our horses
and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil,
the proximity of the snow-topped mountains, and the gra-
zing of numerous herds of butfalos and antelopes. To
save distance in following the bends of tlie river, we passed
to-day over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I
had found, before I arrived at the Black Hills, some loose
.specimens of anthracite eoal on the banks of streams, but
to-day I found a regular ^^ cropping out' ^ of coal, the same
to all appearances as I have seen in the coal basins of Penn-
sylvania. The existence of a coal basin here is also con-
firmed by indications of iron ore. Certainly an invaluable
substance, should it prove abundant, to the future inhabi-
tants of a country so destitute of other fuel. This was the
first discovery of coal in this region. A range of mountains,
a spur of which is seen from Larama's fork in the Black
Hills, runs parallel with the river, ten or fifteen miles dis-
tant, and some of the peaks are very high.

August 4th. The country was more level and fertile.
I discovered more anthracite, indicating large quantities ;
also, in one place, yellow sand stone of remarkably fine
texture. It undoubtedly would answer an excellent pur-
pose for polishing metals. A species of wormwood grows
in great quantities in this region, where the soil id gravelly
and barren. Somt- of it grows eight or ten feet high, and
four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to trav-
eling. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any
animal will taste it unless compelled by extreme hunger.
The prairie hen, however, crops the buds or leaves, which
renders it flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw some
graniie to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite in parts
of the Atlantic states. What I had seen before in boulders

^►;

GRIZZLY BEARS.

was of the red cast, like that which is luuiid about Lake
Supt-rior.

On tile otli, we arose at tlie first breaking of tlie day and
proceeded on our route, making forced inarches tlirougli
this barren region. Encamped towards niglit at a place
called the Red Bute, which is a high blull' of land, resem-
bling red ochre in color, but composed of clay somewhat
indurated. This is a central place for Indians traveling
east or west, nordi or south. Here the north-west branch
of the Platte, along which we have been traveling, comes
from a southern direction, tiie head of which is about one
hundred and fifty miles distant. From the Red Bute we
pass over to the Sweetwater, a branch of the Platte, which
comes from the west. We saw to-day tracks of grizzly
bears, which were perfectly fresh, and were indicative of
their formidable size and strength. One with two large
cubs passed out of some gooseberry and currant bushes near
the river, as we proceeded abound to an open spot of ground
for an encamping place. Lieut. S. of the dragoons, a man
of undoubted veracity, told me he saw several buffalos pass-
ing near some bushes, where a grizzly bear lay concealed,
and the bear with one stroke tore three ribs from a bufialo
and laid it dead. It has been said, if you meet one of these
bears, you must either kill him, or be killed ; but this is not
true, unless you come upon them suddenly, or wound them.
If you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases,
withdraw, showing that the fear of man is upon them as
well as upon other beasts.

August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming
more interesting, as we approach the mountains. I saw
to-day, not only granite in situ, but also a quantity of the most
beautiful serpentine I ever beheld.. It was semi-transparent

HOCK INDEPENDENCE.

il'il

and of a fleop groon huo, very much roscml)linj:j specimens
of emerald which I saw in the mineralo^n'cal cabinet at
New Haven. I regretted the necessity which a long jour-
ney, yet before me, imposed of passing by opportunities for
making collections.

Passed Rock Tndependence, on the 7th. This is the first
massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, which
divides North America, and forms, together with its barrens
on each side, a natural division. This rock takes its name
from the circumstance of a company of fur traders suspend-
ing their journey, and here observing, in due form, the an-
niversary of our national freedom. It is an immensely huge
rock of solid granite, entirely bare and covering several
acres. Advancing a little distance, we came to a stream
of no inconsiderable size, which has its origin in the moun-
tains, and to which the name of Sweetwater has been
given on account of its purity. We followed up the course
of this river for several days. In one place it passes a
small branch of the mountains, through a narrow chasm
only thirty or forty feet wide, and more than three hundred
feet high. The caravan passed around the point of this
mountain, and to obtain a better prospect of this natural
curiosity, I left them and rode to it. A deep-toned roar
is heard as the river dashes its way through the rocky pas-
sage. The sight is soon intercepted by its winding course,
and the darkness caused by the narrowness and deepness
of the avenue.

Passed to-day, several small lakes of crystal ized epsom
salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is
evaporated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality
and depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, I
was glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be beneath,

'mi

■A''

APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS.

whothcr salt in a les.s solid state than on tlio surface, or
quicksand, yet large (juantities of good quality might be
easily collected.

The mountains arc indeed rocky mounlainn. They arc
rocks heaped up(jn rocks, with no vegetation, excepting a
few cedars growing out of the ere vices near their base.
Their tops are covered M'ith j)erpetual snow, which arc seen
on our left and before us. As we advanced, the atmosphere
was increasingly more chilling through the night and most
of the day, excepting the middle, which to-day was very
Avarm ; tho thermometer standing at 84*^.

Sabbath, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of the
privileges of tho sanctuary and its ordinances, as well as I
could by reading, and recalling to mind portions of the
scriptures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, but
neglected catechism. One needs to be on heathen ground
to realize the solitariness of absence from the social wor-
ship, where

•' The cheerful songs and solemn vows
Make their comumnion sweet."

On the 10th, cold winds wci*e felt from the snow-topped
mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage
through these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the
ascent and descent, that I should not have known that we
were passing them, had it not been that as we advanced the
atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at length we saw
the perpetual snows upon our right hand and upon our left,
elevated many tliousand feet above us — in some places ten
thousand. The highest part of these mountains are found
by measurement, to be eighteen thousand feet above the level
of the sea. This valley was not discovered until some
years since. Mr. Hunt and his party, more than twenty

THUNDER SPiniTS DEPARTED.

years aijo, went near but did not find it, thniicjli in search
of sonio favoi';il)lc jiassajio. It varies in widfii from tiirco
to fifteen miles ; and following its course, the distance
through the mountains is about eighty niih^s, or four days'
journey. Though there are some dovations and depres-
sions in this valley, yet coniparativcly speaking, it is level.
There would he no ditRculty in the way of constructing a
rail road from the Atlantic to tlie Pacific ocean ; and prob-
ably the time may not be very far distant, when trips will
be made across the continent, as they have ueen made to
the Niagara Falls, to see nature's wonders, fn passing the
Black TTills and the Rocky Mountains we heard none of those
"successive roports resembling the discharge of several
pieces of artillery," mentioned by some authors as common
*' in the most calm and serene weather, at all times of the
day or night:" nor did we witness " lightning and thunder,
pealing from clouds gathering round the summits of the hills"
or mountains. "The thunder spirits, who fabricate storm>}
and tempests," appear to have closed their labors, and the
Indian tribes no longer *' hang offerings on the trees to pro-
pitiate the invisible lords of the moimtains."

Tiie geology presents some variety ; for while the main
ridge of the mountains is granite, yet to-day j)arallel ridges
of red secondary Sandstone have abounded. They appear
to have been affected by heat ; and some elevating force
has broken them into dyke-like ridges at different distances
from each other, running from east north-east to west south-
west. The strata arc mostlv vertical, but some have a
slight dip to the south.

We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon,

and the men were called to arms. They all rushed forth

full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger.

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Bm SANDY RIVER.

Only one Tndinn made his appearance upon the hill, at '
foot of which we were encutnpod. This was taken as an
indication that others were near, which was the fact ; but
he and they retreated.

August 11th. The last night was very cold — we liad a
heavv frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the thernio-
meter stootl at 24°. Our early morning ride was not very
comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our men
who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses and
mules began to show that constant labor, without sufficient
food, was not favorable to strength, and some of them failed.
To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, one of the upper
branches of the Colorado, which empties into the gulf of
California. Along its banks are some Norway and pitch
pine, and a very few small white pines, and clumps of com-
mon poplar. In some of the low vales, there were beautiful
little fresh roses, which bloomed amidst the desolations
around. " How ornamental are the works of nature ! She
seems to decorate them all, as if each spot was a garden, in
which God might perchance walk, as once in Eden."

THE UEiVDEZVOUS.

CHAPTER V.

Arrive at rendezvous — trappers and Imntcrs — four Indian nationn —
Fiatlieads and Noz PcrcoH, no reason why ho called — Hurgical opo-
rations — an interview with the Flathead and Ncz Perce chiofH —
their anxiety for rolifjious instruction — return of Doct. Whitman —
Shoshones and Utaws — mountain life.

After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a
branch of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first
breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches. Al-
tliough we were emerging from the mountains, yet peaks
covered with perpetual snow were seen in almost every di-
rection, and the temperature of tlie air was uncomfortably
cold. I found to-day sonjo beautiful calcedony, of which
I took a specimen, and also green stone, quartz, and trap
in large quantities. In the afternoon, wc came to the Green
river, a branch of the Colorado, in latitude 42°, where the
caravan hold their rendezvous. This is in a widely extended
valley, which is pleasant, with a soil sufficiently fertile for
cultivation, if the climate was not so cold. Like the coun-
try we have passed th 'ough, it is almost entirely prairie,
with some woods skirting the streams of water.

The American Fur Company have between two and three
hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, enga-
ged in trading, hunting and trapping. These all assemble
at rendezvous upon the arrival of the caravan, bring in their
furs, and lalce new supplies for the coming year, of clothing,
ammunition, and goods for trade with the Indians. But few of

!f-^;,,):

■n i

SURGICAL OPERATIONS.

tliose men ever return to their country and friciitls. Most of
them arc constantly in debt to the company, and arc un^vil-
ling to return without a fortune ; and year after year })asses
away, while they are hoping in vain for better success.

Here were assembk 1 many Indians belonging to four
diflerent nations ; the Utaws, Shoshori.es, Nex Perccs, and
Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan, to exchange
furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer-
chandise. I was disa})pointed to see nothing peculiar in
the Flathead Indians to give them their name. Who gave
them this name, or for what reason, is not known. Some
suppose it was given them in derision for not flattening their
heads, as the Chenooks and some other naaons do, near the
shores of the Pacific. It may be so, but how will those who
indulge this imagination, account for the Nez Perccs being
so called, since they do not pierce their no^es ? This name
eould not bo given them in derision, because tliose near the
Pacific, who flatten their heads, also pierce their noses.
That those names have been given l)y white men, is evi-
dent, since they do not call each other by the names which
signify either flat head or pierced nose.

While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was
called to perform some very important surgical operations.
He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the
back of Capt. Bridger, which was received in a skirmisli,
three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a
difhcult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the
point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance
had grown around it. The Doctor pursued the operation
with great self-possession and perseverance ; and his pa-
tient manifested e(jual firmness. The Indians looked on
meanwiiile, with countenances indicating wonder, and in

AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS.

their own peculiar manner expressed great astoni-sliment
when it was extracted. The Doctor also extracted another
arrow from the shoulder of one of the hunters, which had
been there two years and a half. His reputation becoming
favorably established, calls for medical and surgical aid
were almost incessant.

After spending a few days in collecting and digesting in-
formation in regard to this country and the condition of the
people, we had an interesting interview with tiie chiefs of
the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid befure them the ob-
ject of our appointment, and explained to them the benevo-
lent desires of Christians concerning them. We then en-
quired whether they wished to have teachers come among
them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his wor-
ship, and the way to be saved ; and wliat they would do to
aid them in their labors. The oldest chief of the Flatheads
arose, and said, " he was old, and did not expect to know
much more ; he was deaf, and could not hear, but his heart
was mad) glad, very glad, to see what ho had never seen
before, a man near to God," (meanhig a minister of the gos-
pel.) JNext arose Insala, the most influential chief among
the Flathead nation, and said, " he had heard, a man near
to God was coming to visit them, and he, with some of his
people, together with some white men, went out three days'
journey to meet him, but missed us. A \sar party of Crow
Indians came upon them, and took awvj some of their hor-
ses, and one from him which he greatly loved, but now he
forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near to
God." There was a short battle, but no lives were lost.

The first chief of the N-^z Perces, Tai-quin-su-watish,

arose, and said, " he had lieard from white men a little

about God, which, liad only oone into his ears ; he wislied to

^8*

i-m

A ■ ■':

W-

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■i I,

W: Vi

DR. WHITMAN S PROPOSAL.

know enough to have it go down into his heart, to innuencchi-s
life, and to teacli his people." Others spoke to the same im-
port, and they all made as many promises as we could desire.

The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi-
sing field for missionary lahor, which is white for the har-
vest, and the indications of divine providence in regard to
it are plain, by their anxiety to obtain Ciiristian knowledge.
Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and
prayerful consideration, in regard to these Indians, wo came
to the conclusion, that, though many other important sta-
tions might be found, this would be one. So desirable did
this object appear, that Dr. Whitman i)roposed to return
with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out with
him the next year, with the then returning caravan, and es-
tablish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save
at least a year, in bringing the gospel among them. In view
of the importance of tiie object, I readily consented to the
proposal, and to go alone with the Indians the remainder
of my exploring tour. Dr. Whitman, on further considera-
tion, felt some misgivings about leaving me, lest, if any ca-
lamity should befall me, he should be blamed by the Chris-
tian public. It was my desire that no disquietude should be
felt for me, for we could not go safely together without di-
vine protection, and with it I was secure in any situation.
This confidence inspired me with all the courage I needed,
and composed my mind in regard to coming dangers, as it
had sustained me under those that were past.

Met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I stated to
them the contemplated return of Doctor ^Vllitn]an. They
were much pleased, and promised to assist me, and to send
a convoy with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla,
on the Columbia river. They selected one of llieir princi-

SHOSIIONES.

pal young men for my particular assistant, as long as I
should have need of him, who was called Kcntuc ; and I
engaged a voyagcur, who understood English, and also the
Nez Perce language sufficiently well to interpret common
business, and some of the plain truths of our holy religion,
to go with mo while 1 should continue with these tribes.

We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and
Utaws, to propose the subject of missions among them, lest
we should excite expectations wliich would not soon be ful-
filled. We were the more cautious upon this subject, be-
cause it is difficult to make an Indian understand the dif-
ference between a proposal and a promise. The Shoshones
are a very numerous nation, and appear friendly. They
are probably the most destitute of the necessaries of life of
any Indians west of the mountains. Their country lies
south-west of the south-east branch of the Columbia, and is
said to be the most barren of any part of tlie country in
these western regions. They are often called Snakes and
Root Diggers, from being driven to these resorts to sustain
life ; and parts of the year they sulfer greatly from hunger
and cold. They are more squalid than any Indians 1 have
seen ; bui their poverty does loot lessen th( ir ■>.eed of salva-
tion through Christ. The Utaws arc decern ;i\ appearance,
and their country, which is toward Santa Ft, is said to be
tolerably good.

A few days after our arrival at the ril^cc of rend /.vo us,
and wlien all the mountain men haci assembled, another
day ofindulgenee was granted to tiiem, in wliicii all restrahit
was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's
happiness. I will relate an occurrence \vhich took place
near eveiiing, as a specimen of mountain life. A hrnter,
who g K's technically by the nan^e of the great bully of the

, i : i

::'V a

B^i,

I f 11

MOUNTAIN LIFE.

mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and chal-
lenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman,
to fight him in single comhat. Kit Carson, an American,
told him if he wislied to die, he would accept the challenge.
Shunar defied him. C. mounted Ids horse, and with a load-
ed pistol, rushed into close contact, and hoth almost at the
same instant lired. C's ball entered S's hand, came out at
the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow.
Shunar's ball passed over the head of Carson ; and while
he went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might
be spared. Such scenes, sometimes from passion, and some-
times for anmsement, make the pastime of their wild and
wandering life. They appear to have sought for a place
where, as they would say, liuman nature is not oppressed
by the tyranny of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the
frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied
forms to which human nature, without the restraints of civil
government, and cultivated and polished society, may be
supposed to yield. In the absence of all those motives,
which they would feel in moral and religious society, re-
finement, pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even
conscience, give place to unrestrained dissoluteness. Their
toils and privations are so great, that they more readily com-
pensate themselves by plunging into such excesses, as in
their mistaken judgment of things, seem most adaj)ted to give
them pleasure. They disdain the common-place jjhrases of
profanity which prevail a'^^ong the impious vulgar in civil-
ized countries, and have many set phrases, which they ap-
pear to have manufactured among themselves, and which,
in their imprecations, they bring into almost every sentence
and on all occasions. By varying the tones of their voices,
they make tJjem expressive of joy, hope, grief, and anger.

DEMORALIZING INFLUENCES.

In their broils among tliemselves, whicli do not happen every
day, they would not bo ungenerous. They would see " fair
play," and would " spare the last eye ;" and would not tole-
rate murder, unless drurdccnness or great provocation could
be pleaded in extenuation.

Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been
lamentable, and they have practiced impositions upon them,
in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said
they have sold tliem packs of cards ur high prices, calling
them the Bible ; and have told them, if they should refuse
to give white men wives, God would be angry with them
and punish them eternally : and on almost any occasion
when their wishes have been resisted, they have threatened
them with the wrath of God. If these things are true in
many instances, yet from personal observation, I should be-
lieve, their more common mode of accomplisliing their wishes
has been by flattery and presents ; for the most of them
squander away their wages in o/naments for their women
and children.

The Indians, with whom I was to travel, having appoint-
ed the 21st to commence the journey for their country, a
few days were occupied in writing to my family, the Ame-
rican Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and
other friends ; and also in making j)reparations for my jour-
ney !'■ \Falla Wallu. While wo conlhiued in this place,
though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights
were frosty, and ice was frequently formed,

! >i

PEPARTUHE OF UOCT. WHITMAN.

CHAPTER VI.

Part with my associate — arrive at licad waters of the Columbia — kind,
ness of the Indians — narrow dclile — geology — ^Jackson's Hole — wild
flax — Iriippers go out on a liunt — mountain prospect — Trois Tctons
— danger from affrighted buffalo — Pierre's Hole — Volcanic chasm —
children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians — bu-
rial of a child — scarcity of food — a timely suppl}' — Salmon river —
expected battle — geological observations — scene of mourning.

August 21st, commenced oui' journey ui company with
Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six ov eight
dp,ys' journey op our route. Instead of going down on the
south-west side of Lewis' rivrr, we concluded to take our
course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are tliree veiy
high mountains, covered ^vith perpetual snow, separated
from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are seen
at a very great distance ; and from thence to Sahnon river.
Went only about three miles fron the place of rendezvous,
and encamped.

On the 22d, 1 parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned
with the caravan to the United States. My anxious desire
was, that, the Lord would go with him and make his way
prospoious, and make him steadfast to the object of his re-
tun;, until it should be accomplished ; and that, with next

iiighi come with associates into this
1 with them r*^';);! a plentiful harvest.

•hat bar-

year's caravan, he

)ronii

smg

field,

To-day we traveled twenty miles, through

somewi

ren countr) , and down several steep descents, and arrived

oicanipcd upon a

at what is called Jackson's Hole, and

PUBLIC WORSHIP.

■small stream of water, one of the upper branches of the
Columbia river, It was interesting to find myself, for the
first time, upon the waters of this noble river. The Indians
were very attentive to all my wants — ^took tlie entire care
of my packed animals, cooking, &c. They preserve par-
ticular order in their movements. The first chief leads the
way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, and after
these the women and children. The place assigned me
was with the first chief

Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a
small number. These furnished a timely supply, as our
provisions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of
the Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve
mine.

Sabbath, 23d. Had an opportunity for rest and devo-
tional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship
with those of the company who understood English. Tiie
men conducted with great propriety, and listened with at-
tention. I did not feel any disposition to up])raid ther.i for
their sins, but endeavored aiFectionately to show them, that
they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be happy
in the employments of that holy place, unless they should
first experience a great moral cliange of heart by the grace
of God, since the only source of happiness in heaven con-
sists in serving and glorifying (^od forever. The place of
our encampment was such as would naturally fill the mind
with soU'uinity — ^^just above a very deej* and narrow defile
whicli wc had to pass, called by the hunters Kenyan, So
high were the mountains, tl.at some of them W(M"e tipped
with perpetual snow, and so narrow tlie passage, that twi-
light shades obscured the view. The distance through
must occupy more than a half day's journey.

^ML^^

A DAXfiEROUS PASS — GEOLOGY.

Arose very early on the 24th, and connnienccd our way
through the narrow defile, frequently crossing and 'o-cross-
ino; a large stream of water which Hows into the Snake river.
The scenery was wild and in many parts sublime — moun-
tains of rock, almost perpendicular, shooting their heads up
into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one place project-
ing over our path, if a zigzag trail can be called a path.
Often we had to pass over the sides of mountains, which in-
clined at an angle of 45° toward the stream of water below,
and down which packed mules have fallen, and been dashed
upon the rocks. I endeavored to guide my Indian horse so
cautiously that he became unmanageable, being resolved to
have his own method of choosing the way. I was under the
necessity of dismounting and making the best of my way.
But on farther acquaintance with Indian horses, T learned
that their dashing mode of going ahead, even in danrferous
places, was preferable to the most cautious management of
the American.

For some miles there was Sandstone in ridges at equal
distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six to ten feet
wide, rising a little above the surface of the earth, running
from south-east to north-west ; laying in strata dipping to
the west at an angle of 60°. At some distance I obser-
ved a mountain of red earth of similar character, excepting
that the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 40°. In
one place where the sti'ata of rocks and earth were in waves
nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, of a wedge
form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular position, as
though the mountain had been rent asunder, and the chasm
filled with the perpendicular wedge. A great diversity of
the strata of rocks and earth prevailed in every part. To-
wards the last of the way through this narrow defilo, we

KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES.

came to what appeared to ^10 magnesian limestone, stratified,
of a brown color, and very hard. As we passed on we saw
dark brown gypsum, like that found in the western part of
the state of New York. Here for some distance I was much
annoyed with the strong scent of sulphureted hydrogen, and
soon saw at the foot of the mountain under the bed of gyp-
sum a large sulphur spring, which sent up more than thir-
ty gallons of water per minute. Around this spring were
large quantities of incrusted sulphur, and so strongly is the
water saturated, that it colors the water of the river, on the
side next to the spring, a greenish yellow, for more than a
mile below.

We passed more forests to-day, than since we left Rock
Independence ; among which is Norway pine, balsam fir,
double spruce, and common poplar — some low cedar and
flowering raspberry, and various species of shrubbery which
are not found in the United States. The Indians were very
kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see who could
do the most for my comfort, so that they more than antici-
pated my wants. Two little girls brought me a quart of
strawberries, a rare dish for this season of the year. And
an Indian brought me some service berries, which are large,
purple, and oblong, of a pleasantly sweet taste, similar to
whortleberries. We encamped upon a fertile plain, sur-
rounded by mountains, where three years before three men
were killed by a small war party of Blackfeet Indians.
There were seven of the hunters, and when they saw the
Blackfeet, they all fled in different directions, and by so doing
emboldened the Indians to the pursuit. Had they stood firm
and combined, it is probable they would have escaped unhurt.

We traveled four hours on the 25th, to another branch of

Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleasant

' ,

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WILD FLAX.

valloy, commonly called Jackson's larfjr hole. It is fertile
and v\ ell watered with a branch of Lewis' river coming from
tho south-east, and another of some magnitude, coming from
the north-east, which is the outlet of .Jackson's laki', .i body
of water laying back of the Trois Tctons. Theru are also
many ve'y large springs of water of uncommon clearness,
which issue from tho base of the surrounding mountains.
This valley is well supplied with grass of excellent ijuality,
which was very grateful to our horses and mules, and the
avidity with which they helped themselves seemtd to say,
they would be remunerated for past deprivations.

Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In
every thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the flax
which is cultivated in the United States — the stalk, the boll,
the seed, the blue flower closed in the day time and open in
the evening and morning. The Indians use it for making
fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be mowed like grass ;
for the roots are too large and run too deep into the earth,
to be pulled like ours — and an advantage, which this would
have, is, that there would be a saving of ploughing and sowing.
Is it not worthy the experiment of our agricultural societies?

Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good
currants, which were delicious in this land. There are
several species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow
and pale red were the best flavored.

We continued in this encampment three days, to give our
animals an opportimity to recruit, and for Captain Bridger
to fit and send out several of his men into the mountains to
hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the probability, that
most of these men would never return to their friends, but
would find their graves in the mountains, my heart was
pained for them, and especially at their thoughtlessness

A MOUNTAIN rilOSPKCT.

fertile
CT from
i<r from
.V body
Lvc also
■arness,
intains.
'iuality,
and the
1 to say,

try. In
the flax
the boll,
I open in
r making
vc grass ;
earth,
lis would
sowing,
ocieties?
ery good
lere are
e yellow

rjive our
1 Bridger
untains to
)ility, that
ionds, but
leart was
htlessness

about the grout things of the eternal world. I gave each of
them ii few tracts, for which they appiuircd grateful, and
said they would be company for them in their lonely liours ;
and as they rode away, I could only pray for tlicir safety
and salvation.

During our contimiance Iumv, I took un Indian f )r an us-
sistant, and ascend(Ml one of the highest mountains in the
vicinity, to view the surrounding country. Tlie prospect
was as extensive as the eye could reacli, diversilied with
mountains, liills, plains, and valleys. Mi -t of the mountains
were covered with woods ; but the plum.- 1 valleys were
covered with grass, presenting less of bri; green, however,
than migiit be expected wliere the summer is favored with
(lews and rains. But the whole was a scene of perfect en-
chantment. About sixty miles to the east the Rocky moun-
tains lay stretched through the whole extent of vision, spread
out likr luminous clouds in the horizon ; their summits so
elevated, that no soil ever rises to sully the pure whiteness
of their everlasting snows, and tinged and mellowed with a
golden hue by the rays of the sun. Not very far to the
north, the Trois Tetons, a cluster of high pointed mountains,
covered with perpetual snow, rising ten thousand feet almost
perpendicularly, were distinctly visible, with two others of
the same form but of les^ magnitude. Only three of the
cluster are so high as to be seen at a very great distance.
Here I spent much time in looking over the widely extended
and varied scenery, sometimes filled with emotions of the
sublime, in beholding the towering mountains ; sometimes
with pleasure in tracing the windings of the strea)us in the
vale below ; and these sensations frequently gave place to
astonishment, in viewing the courses in whicii the rivers flow
on their way, unobstructed by mountain barriers. After

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33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. M580

(716) 872-4503

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A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT.

some hours occupied in this excursion, I descended to the
encampment much gratified with what I had seen of the
works of God. The soil in this valley and upon the hills,
is black and rich, and the time will come, when the solitude
which now prevails will be lost in the lowing of herds and
bleating of flocks, and the plough will cleave the clods of these
hills and vales ; and from many altars will ascend the in-
cense of prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai-quin-su-
wa-tish took me to his company of horses and gave me one
in token of his friendship, and probably not without the motive
to enlist me in his favor. The horse was finely made, and
of the beautiful color of intermixed cream and white.

On the 28th, we pursued our journey and passed over a
mountain so high, that banks of snow were but a short
distance from our trail. When we had ascended two-thirds
of the way, a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our
Indians, came rushing down the side of the mountain through
the midst of our company. One ran over a horse, on the
back of which was a child, and threw the child far down
the descent, but providentially it was not materially injured.
Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it deeply in
the shoulder. The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when
they have laid their course, and being aflTrighted are run-
ning at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction,
whatever obstacles may be in their way.

I noticed nothing particularly new in geology, excepting
upon the highest parts of these mountains, granite of very
light color. Our descent was through woods more dense
than those on the other side, and tiie most dense of any for-
ests since we left the waters of the Missouri. Many parts
of the descent were of almost impassable steepness ; and
part of the way down a rough deep ravine, a stream of

PIERRE S HOLE.

water commences, and increasing from springs and rivulets
to considerable magnitude, winds its way through the valley
of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper part of which we made our
encampment among willows, in the prairie vale.

On the 29th, removed our encampment, and traveled five
hours along this valley to the place, where two years before,
two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's Hole is
an extensive level country, of rich soil, well watered with
branches of Lewis' river, and is less frosty than any part
we have passed this side the rocky chain of mountains.
The valley is well covered with grass, but like most other
places is deficient in woodland, having only a scanty supply
of cotton-wood and willows scattered along the streams.
It extends around to the north-west, as far as the eye can
reach. We expected to have found buffalo here, but saw
none. As parties of Blackfeet warriors often range this
way, it was probable they had lately been here and fright-
ened them away. Between this and our last encampment,
I was shown the place where the men of the fur companies,
at the time of their rendezvous two years before, had a bat-
tle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the Blackfeet party there
were about sixty men, and more than the same number of
women and children ; of the white men in the valley, there
were some few hundred who' could be called into action.
From the information given me, it appeared that these In-
dians were on their way through this valley, and unexpect-
edly met about forty hunters and trappers going out from
rendezvous to the south-west on their fall and winter hunt.
The Indians manifested an unwillingness to fight, and pre-
sented tokens of peace ; but they were not reciprocated.
Those who came forward to stipulate terms of peace were

fired upon and killed. When the Indians saw their danger,

';;'■;

* il

■■■■- ., 'IV !

!i-

THE BATTLE OF PIERRE's HOLE.

they fled to the cotton-wood trees and willows which were
scattered along the stream of water, and, taking advantage
of some fallen trees, constructed as good defenses as time
and circumstances would permit. They were poorly pro-
vided with guns, and were still more destitute of ammuni-
tion. The trappers keeping out of reach of their arrows,
and being well armed with the best rifles, made the contest
unequal ; and still more unequal, when, by an express sent
to rendezvous, they were reinforced by veterans in moun-
tain life. The hunters, keeping at a safe distance, in the
course of a few hours killed several of the Indians, and al-
most all their horses, which, in their situation, could not be
protected, while they themselves suffered but small loss.
Those killed, on both sides, have been differently stated, but,
considering the numbers engaged, and the length of time the
skirmishing continued, it could not have been a bloody bat-
tie ; and not much to the honor of civilized Americans.
The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is,
that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they
would have butchered them and seized upon the plunder.
If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, civilized white
men should not. What a noble opportunity was here af-
forded for our American citizens to have set an example of
humanity.

When night approached, the hunters retired to their en-
campment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians made
their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre's Hole
began and ended.*

* Since my return, I have seen an account of lliis battle, written by
a graphic liand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing
the Indians as having entrenched themselves in a swamp, so densely
wooded as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trap-

THE TEN COMMANDMENTS.

I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as
many as could assemble in (^ne of their lodges, and explain-
ed to them the ten commandments — and after showing them
their sin in their transgression of God's holy law, pointed
them to the Savior, and endeavored to make them under-
stand the way of salvation. My method of instructing
them was to give the first chief the first commandment, by
repeating it, until he could repeat it ; and the second com-
mandment to another chief in the same way, and so on
through the ten, with directions for them to retain what was
given to each, and to teach their people ; and the same
manner was pursued with other parts of divine truth ; in-
forming them, that at our next assembling, I shall examine
them to see if they rightly understood, and retained what I
committed to each. And on examination, in no case did I
find more than one material mistake. I also found that
they took much pains to communicate instruction to each
other.

pers at ba;/, until they were reinforced from rendezvous. When the
Blackfeet saw the whole valley alive with horsemen rushing to the
field of action, they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the
leaders of the several hunting parties came into the field, they urged
their men to enter the swamp, but they hung back in awe of the dis-
mal horrors of the place, regarding it impenetrable and full of danger.
But the leaders would not be turned from their purpose — made their
wills — appointed their executors — grasped their rifles, and urged their
way through the woods. A brisk fire was opened and the Blackfeet
were completely overmatched, but would not leave iheir fort, nor offer
to surrender. The numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did
not atorm the breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their
powder and balls, but only kept up the bloody battle by occasional firing
during the day. The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat ;
and the brave mountaineers assembled their forces in the morning,
and entered the fort without opposition.

With those who have seen tlie field of battle, the glowing descrip.
tion, drawn out in long detail, loses its interest ; for although I saw it,
yet I did not see dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any
where near.

'.'■''f:\

'»*■

'-iii

f i ! -1. '

' '11

VOLCANIC CHASM.

In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party,
who went north-east into the mountains to their hunting
ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which they will
contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and his family,
with a few of his people, went with Captain Bridger, that
they might continue within the range of buffalo through the
coming winter.

The Nez Perces, and the Flatheads, with whom I go,
take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which
is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was
well chosen for safety against any war parties of Blackfeet
Indians, near a small stream of water running through a
volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and in most places
perpendicular. We were on the west side of the chasm,
with a narrow strip of wood on every other side. Here
was a passage made for the water by fre. The courses,
which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the cre-
ating and directing hand of God, as the design manifested
in the organic part of creation ; and I would as unwillingly
account for the positions of mountains, and valleys, and the
channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, without inclu-
ding the power and design of God, as for the formation of
plants and animals. It is true, there is more minute and
curious organization in the one than in the other, but in
both the wisdom and power of God are manifest.

This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re-
freshing, and it seemed as though the Sabbath was designed
especially for persons in such circumstances. It was, to
my mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall
return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence
are done. I read with new satisfaction, the Epistle to the
Hebrewsj and committed again myself and family, the

CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK.

church and world of mankind, to God. It was pleasant to
reflect on the promises, that the kingdoms of this world shall
become the kingdoms of the Lord and of his Christ, and he
shall reign forever ; and that the time will come, when all
shall know the Lord, and God shall be merciful to their
unrighteousness, and their sins and iniquities he will re-
member no more.

Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and pre-
paring to leave this encampment, I went and examined the
volcanic chasm. It is many miles in length, and narrow,
considering its depth ; formed of basaltic columns in many
places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found many large
and fine specimens of pure obsidian, or volcanic glass —
much lava and vitrified stones. I took some small speci-
mens. In the vicinity around, there was clinkstone in great
abundance, which, when struck by the horses hoofs, gave
a metallic sound. The soil is black, and appears to be
formed of decomposed lava, and is covered with a nutritious
grass.

The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets
with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him.
Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge and
kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. Yes-
terday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which a
child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hover-
ed at once around with their horses so as to enclose him,
and the child was extricated without injury. When I saw
the condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could
be saved alive. This was the second case of the kind which
had occurred since I had been traveling with these Indians.
They are so well supplied with horses that every man,
woman, and child, are mounted on horseback, and all their

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CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK.

possessions are packed upon liorses. Small children, not
more than three years old, are mounted alone, and gene-
rally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep
them from falling, when they sleep, which they often do
when they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the
horses slioulders ; and when they awake, lay hold of their
whip, which is fastened to the wrist of their light hand, and
apply it smartly to their horses ; and it is astonishing to
see how these little creatures will guide and run them.
Children which are still younger, are put into an encase-
ment made with a board at the back and a wicker work
around the other parts, covered with cloth inside and out,
or, more generally, with dressed skins; and are carried
upon the mothers' back, or suspended from a high knob upon
the fore part of their saddles.

As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes
warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co-
lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the
Nez Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his
lodge a number of his people who had separated, husbands
from their wives, and wives from their husbands, and ex-
plain to them what God had said upon the subject. I rea-
dily consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal
as it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result
of his own reflections after what I had before said in explain-
ing the ten commandments. When they were assembled,
I read to them about the relative duties of husbands and
wives, and of parents and children. I commented upon the
subject, and told them that when they marry it must be for
life. All but two agreed to go back to their former hus-
bands and wives. It was interesting to see that they are rea-
dy to practice instructions as soon as received. The chief

FEARS OF BLACKFEET.

said they desired me to instruct them in all that God has
said ; for they wish to do riglit. After I left them, they
stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, which was near
my tent, and I heard them conversing on the suhject until
I went to sleep, which was at a late hour. They all shook
hands with me when I left them, and said my words were
"to?'*" (good.)

Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to-
day only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, another
branch of Lewis' river, which is itself a river of some mag-
nitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and fordable
only when the water is low. After proceeding a few miles
down on the north side, we encamped at an early hour in
a spot upon the bank of the river, surrounded by cotton-
wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. Our fears of
meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were increased
by seeing three Indians pass who were strangers to us.
Some of the chiefs Avent through our encampment and ha-
rangued the people, the object of which was to be prepared
for defending themselves against an attack, should any en-
emies appear. We were preserved in safety through the
night, and arose on the morning of the second and went on
our way, and performed a journey of twenty-two miles over
a barren section of country. The surface is composed of
quartose sand, intermixed with disintegiatcd amygdaloid,
basalt, and obsidian. In some places were large excava-
tions, plainly indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had
spread out their melted contents in a level plain of hard
lava, or amygdaloid, without forming cones. In other pla-
ces there were conical rocks of different magnitudes at the
base, and of different height — none perhaps over the diame-
ter of three rods at the base and sixty feet high. They

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100

INVITATION TO FORT HALL.

were universally divided in the centre, as though an explo-
sion had taken place after they were hardened. At some
distance from us were several hills, rising in high cones
some hundred feet — two of them I should judge to be not
far from three thousand feet high. I did not have an oppor-
tunity of examining their geological formation.

We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Salmon
river, which was the first water we had found through the
day, and upon which was good grass for our horses. Here
Kentuc, my Indian, caught some excellent trout, which was
a very grateful change of food.

Our progress during the next day was through a barren
tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except
wormwood, which grows very large. A sluggish stream
bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for
stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65®.

We traveled on the fourth, five hours, and encamped by
a stream of water, in Cote's defile, which comes out of the
mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. Cote's
defile passes through a range of high mountains, some of
the tops of which are covered with snow. Most of the day
was uncomfortably cold with snow-squalls. Thermometer,
at noon, 54°.

Friday, 4th. To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall,
containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the
winter with him ; but the object for which I have passed
the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my tour, and
if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort
Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that
a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and
would come to us to-morrow. We had become almost des»
titute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo.

'»

CUARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF.

101

Tho morning of the 5th was very cold. Wc continued
in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perccs an op.
portunity to join us, and about the middle of the day they
came ; the principal chief marching in front with his aid,
carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung a
march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew
near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing
appearance. The women and children followed in the rear.
Tai-quin-su-wH-tish, and other chiefs, arranged their people
in the same order and went out to meet them ; and when
we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted,
and a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead.
They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single
file, and meeting, shook hands with me and each other irt
token of friendship, and to express their joy to see one come
among them to teach them respecting God and salvation.
The principal chief of the other band who is called Charlie,
and is the first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good look-
ing man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and ex-
pressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy ex-
pressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took me
firmly by the hand and welcomed me.

In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see

a prominence of interesting appearance. It is detached

from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side

of Cote's defile, is about a half mile in circumference at the

base, and rises up abruptly, having most of its west side

perpendicular. It is more than two hundred feet high, has

a level horizontal summit of eighty rods long, north and

south, and twenty rods wide. It furnishes plain evidence of

havinj.! been fused and thrown up by subterranean fires.

In tho evening I met the chiefs, and as many as could

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102

A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS.

Ill

assemble in the lodge, and explained to those wliom I had
not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the first
chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some time
— mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more about
God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can teach
him ; and said, ** I have been like a little child, uneasy,
feeling about in the dark after something, not knowing
what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be
substantial, and which will help mo to teach my people to
do right." I told them to-morrow would be the Sal)bath ;
and explained to them the nature of the institution, and their
obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed
their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp,
but attend to the worship of God. Providentially there
came to us this afternoon a good intei-preter from Fort Hall,
so that to-morrow I can preach to the people.

Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest
chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice
explained to them the instructions given last evening ; told
them it was the Sabbath, and they must prepare for public
worship. About eight in the morning, some of the chiefs
came to me and asked where they should assemble. I en-
quired if they could not be accommodated under the shade
of the willows, which skirted the stream of water on which
we were encamped. They thought on account of their
numbers they could not. I then enquired if they could not
take the poles of some of their lodges and construct a shade ;
and without any other directions they went and made pre.
paration, and before eleven o'clock came and said they
were ready for worship. I found them all assembled, men,
women, and children, between four and five hundred, in
what I would call a sanctuary of God, constructed with

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AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE.

103

their lo<lgps, nearly one hundred feet long ami about twenty
feet wide ; and all were arranged in rows, through the
length of the building upon their knees, with a narrow space
in the middle, lengthwise, resembling an aisle. The whole
area within was carpotod with their dressed skins, and they
were all in their best attire. The chiefs were arranged in
a semicircle at the end which I was to occupy. I could
not have believed they had the means, or could have known
how to erect so convenient and so decent a place for wor-
ship, and especially as it was the first time they had had
public worship. The whole sight affected me, and filled me
with admiration; and I felt as though it was the house of
God and the gate of heaven.

They all continued in a kneeling position during singing
and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, tl.oy all
said what was equivalent in their language, to Amen. And
when I commenced sermon, they seated themselves back
upon their heels. I stated to them the original condition of
man when first created, his fall, and the ruined and sinful
condition of all mankind ; the law of God, and that all are
transgressors of this law and as such arc exposed to the
wrath of God, both in this life and the life to come ; and
then told them of the mercy of ({od in giving his Son to die
for us, and of the love of the Savior, and tliuf though he de-
sires our salvation, he will not save us unless we hate sin
and put our trust in him, and love and obey him with all
our heart. I also endeavored to show them the necessity
of renovation of heart by the power and grace of the Holy
Spirit. Told them they must pray to God for the forgive-
ness of their sins and for salvation. They gave the utmost
attention, and entire stillness prevailed, excepting, when
some truth arrested their minds forcibly, a little humming

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104

AN INDIAN BURIAL.

sound passed through the whole assembly, occupying two
or three seconds.

I never spoke to a more ''ntercsting assembly, and would
not have changed my audience for any other upon earth ;
and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky
Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these lieathen
who are so anxious to obtain a knowledge of God. I hope,
that in the last day it will be found that good was done in
the name of Jesus. If Cliristians could have witnessed this
day's service, it would have enlisted their sympathies, and
they would be willing to do something adequate to the con-
version of these perishing souls.

An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged to
the band which joined us yesterday, died this morning. He
was speechless when he was brought here. We attcndru
his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a very
decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting that
they buried with him all his clothes and blankets. I ad-
dressed the people at the grave upon the subject of the re-
surrection and of the judgment. This was entirely new
to them and very interesting. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish came to
my tent towards evening, and said, what I had said was
"to/5," it was spiritual, and now he knew more about God.
So deep was the interest awakened by the few ideas their
benighted minds had obtained of this most precious truth of
our religion, that they came to my tent after I had retired
to rest, and awakened me, to go and converse still farther
with them on the subject .

Monday, 7th. We traveled five hours to-day. The In-
dians make slow progress in traveling with their village ;
for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to
set up and take down their lodges. This is, however, of

INDIAN HOSPITALITV.

105

little consequence to them ; for wherever they are, it is
their home.

They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anti-
cipating all, and more than all, my wants, which they have
the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im-
portant business, and are ready to follow my counsels.
They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun
shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green
bushes and set them up for shade. A iew days since,
we encamped where there were some fragrant plants of a
species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with a
few other women, collected a quantity, and strewed them
in my tent.

We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks and over
a more rich, black soil, where we found a good supply of
grass for our horses at night.

Our route, on the 8th, was continued as usual. My health
hitlierto, since I connnenccd my journey, has been uninter-
ruptedly good, until to-day I sullered a slight attack of in-
flammation of the lungs, in consequence of a cold.

The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet
they are seldom anxious about the future. When they have
a plenty, they are not sparing ; and when they are in want,
they do not complain. The Indians at this time were al-
most destitute of provisions, and we were approaching the
Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies be-
tween twelve and lifteon days, and where there are no buf-
falo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful con-
cern for them, that (Jod would send a supply before we
should get beyond the range of bullulo, and was confident
that wu should experience the trutii of His word, that he

provides lor all their meul in duo season j and as the cattle

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106

SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS — TIMELY SUPPLY.

upon the thousand hills are his, so he would not withhold his
providential care from us.

We continued to pass basaltic mountains ; and also
passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use
for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dress-
ed skins.

Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a paste,
and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes dry
rub it oif, which process leaves the garment soft, clean, and
white. We encamped to-day where they had before madie
an encampment, a little below a steep bank. Near night I
was alarmed by shouts of Indians and a general rush up
the bank. I hastened up and saw great numbers running
towards our camp. It proved to be a foot race, such as
they frequently exercise themselves in, for the purpose of
improving their agility.

September 9th, I was more unwell. To-day we unex-
pectedly saw before us a large band of buffalo, and halted
to make preparation for the chase. The young men and
all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the
swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had, and took
a supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was
such, that it seemed our lives almost depended upon their
success. And while they were preparing, I could not but
offer prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them
judgment, skill, and success. They advanced towards the
herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should frighten
them before they could make a near approach ; and also to
reserve the power of their horses for the chase, when it should
be necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the
buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush was made, each
Indian selecting for himself a cow with which he happened

THE CHASE.

107

to come into the nearest contact. All were in swift motion,
scouring the valley — a cloud of dust began to arise — the
firing of guns and the shooting of arrows followed in close
succession — soon here and there buffalo were seen pros-
trated ; and the women, who followed close in the rear,
began the work of securing the valuable acquisition ; and
the men were aM'ay again in pursuit of the fleeing herd.
Those in the chase, when they came abreast of the buffalo
and at the distance of two rods, shoot and wheel, expecting
the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses ap-
peared to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as
the wounded animal flies again, the chase is renewed, and
such is the alternate wheeling and chasing until the buffalo
sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained between fifty
and sixty.

I was interested to see how expertly the Indians used the
bow and arrow, and how well the women followed up the
chase, and performed their part in dressing the buffalo which
were slain. After traveling six hours to-day, we encamped
on the eastern branch of Salmon river, where it is of con-
siderable magnitude. The pain in my breast changed and
seated in my head, on the right side.

On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged
to resort to medicine. I could say with the Psalmist, " I
laid me down and slept; for thou art with me." We did
not remove to-day, for it was necessary for the Indians to
dry their meat by a process which is called "jerking." The
meat is cut into pieces, an inch thick, and spread out on a
fixture made with stakes, upon which are laid poles, and
upon these cross sticks ; and then a moderate fire is placed
beneath, which partly smokes, cooks, and dries it, until it
is so well freed from moisture, that it can be packed, and

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108

SALMON RIVER.

will keep without injury almost any length of time. Here
we made preparation for the remainder of my journey to
Walla Walla, which will probably occupy about twenty
days.

September 11th. To-day most of tlie Nez Perces and
Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffalo,
that they might secure a larger store of provisions before
winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to go
with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, I ex-
perienced another token of their regard in a very valuable
present of twenty fine buffalo tongues, which are a great
delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat. I
reciprocated their kindness by making such presents as were
in my power to bestow — among which was a britania cup,
to the first chief, which he highly valued. And I gave him
some writing paper, requesting him to present it to the mis-
sionaries whom I had encouraged him to expect next year.

After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same
branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor-
tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly.

We continued our journey, on the 12th, down the eastern
branch of Salmon river. The valley through which this
river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to three
or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward tiie Sal-
mon river mountains, the mountains upon each side in-
creased in height and converged towards each other. They
presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with Indians
to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors, in
different directions, to reconnoiter, and especially when they
are apprehensive that enemies may be near. We had evi-
dence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of some other
xiation, or tribe, were' about us ; and therefore more than

DANGER APPREHENDED.

100

usual numbers of our men were flanking, and ahead. On
the banks of the river down which we were traveling, there
was a dense growth of willows extending, however, only a
few rods into the bottom-lands. About two in the afternoon,
we were all very much alarmed to see our men, who were
out as hunters and guards upon the hills, running their horses
full speed, in an oblique direction towards us. Two of them
were our principal chiefs. We knew that they had discov-
ered something more than ordinary, but what we could not
conjecture. Being in a country where war parties of Black-
feet Indians often range, our thoughts were turned upon dan-
ger ; and soon our fears were increased by seeing on the sides
of the mountains at our left, clouds of dust arise, and in the
obscure distance, men descending as swiftly as their horses
could run. They were so far off that we could not deter-
mine who they were. At the same time our two chiefs on
the hills halted and made signals which we did not under-
stand. In addition to this, some of the Indians said they
saw Blackfeet Indians in the willows, not far off, between
us and the chiefs ; and our belief that it was so, was confirm-
ed, when two deer rushed from the willows towards us, and
when they saw us, instead of returning, only declined a lit-
tle to the left, and passed before us. These enquiries arose
in my mind — Why have the chiefs halted ? Do they see
enemies between us and themselves? Are their signals to
give us warning of danger ? What so frightened the deer
that they rushed out towards us ? We had all halted, and
made what preparation we could for battle. As we did
not know in what part of the willows to make the attack,
we were waiting for our enemies to commence the fire, and
were expecting every instant to have their balls poured in
upon us. It was a moment of awful suspense. We sent

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110

BUFFALO.

out a few men, upon an eminence to our right, to see what
they could discover, and they soon returned without having
seen any enemies. The two chiefs upon the hills, who were
now joined by those who rushed down the mountains, and
who proved to be some of our own men, applied their whips
to their horses, and in full speed came to us ; and Charlie,
the first chief, rode up to me, and smiling, reached out his
hand and said, ^' cocoil cocoil," (buffalo, buffalo.) Thus
ended the battle ; and the remainder of the day was spent
in killing and dressing buffalo, which was far more pleasant
than fighting Blackfeet Indians. This made a desirable
addition to their stock of provisions. We encamped in this
place, which supplied a plenty of good grass for our horses,
and where there was no want of fuel.

The inflammation in my head still continued with throb-
bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundred a minute.
Bled myself again and took medicine. Thermometer, at
noon, 73*.

Sabbath, 13th. My health no better, and my strength
was failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this
trial to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condition,
my motives in engaging in this mission, and whether I could
give up all for Christ to promote Iiis kingdom in the world.
I thought I could surrender all into the hands of God, my
soul to my Redeemer, and my body to be buried by these
Indians in this desert land. I felt as though it Avas desira-
ble to finish my tour, and return and make my report, and
urge the sending of missionaries into this field, which is
white for the harvest ; and again to meet my family and
friends ; but still I wished not to have any will of my own,
but say, the will of the Lord be done. These Indians per.
severe in their kindness, and are very respectful, and ready

GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

Ill

to obey as fast as I can impart instruction ; and they say
that what I tell them is different from any thing they have
ever heard, being spiritual, and that they wisli to have
Sueapo (American) teachers. If the American churches
will not send them teachers, criminality must rest upon
them for disobedience to Christ's authority. Are there any
heathen more anxious than these to be taught the way of
salvation, where there are so few obstacles to the introduc-
tion of the gospel '? Here are no idols, no sacrifices, no
power of caste to combat ; nor, as y^et, the destructive influ-
ence which exists upon the frontiers.

September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, and pro-
ceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles
above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes from
the south, and has its source in two small lakes in the moun-
tains north of Henry's fork.

For some distance on our way, on the loth, the moun-
tains came down near the river, rendering the valley through
which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountnins terminate
in high bluffs, which in many places present uncommonly
interesting strata. The lowest stratum was white marly
earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly horizontal, and
somewhat indurated ; upon this a green stratum of about
four feet in thickness ; next a stratum of brown of about
ten feet ; upon this a stratum of red about the same depth
of the green ; over this a mould of decomposed lava. This
marly earth slightly effervesces with acid. The rocks in
most places are basalt — in some places very fine granular
quartz. Noticing some unusual appearances near the foot
of the mountains, on the left, I rode to the place, and found
a cluster of volcanic eruptions, which, though ancient, ap-
peared more recent than any I had previously seen. A little

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112

PETRIFIED STUMP.

way down the descent into one of the craters, I found a pe-
trifled stump, standing in its natural position ; its roots and
the grain of the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and
about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood undoubtedly,
upon what was the natural surface of the earth, and the
mound above and around was thrown up by volcanic fires.
While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is
scattering it over the country around, to renew the soil
which was destroyed by the great conflagration, which once
fused this whole region of the setting sun. This petrified
stump, found in this position, proves that this country, which
is now so destitute of wood, was once supplied if not covered
with forests. From various sources of evidence, it is plain
that these prairie regions were formerly better supplied with
wood than at present, and also that the present supply is
constantly diminishing.

We passed, to-day, a place where two years ago thirty
Nez Perce young men, who were killed by the Blackfeet,
were buried. They were all active young men, going out
upon some expedition, the nature of which I could not learn.
They had gone but a little distance from the village, which
encamped here, when passing through a very narrow defile
on a small stream of water, walled up on both sides with
perpendicular rocks, the Blackfeet Indians, who had way-
laid them, attacked them from before and behind, and killed
all but one, who mounted a horse belonging to the Black-
feet, and rushed through the opposing enemy. After the
Blackfeet Indians had retired from the place of slaughter,
the Nez Perces brought away the dead bodies and buried
them in this place. According to their mode, they buried
with them their clothes, blankets, and buffalo robes, in graves
about three feet deep, putting five or six bodies in a grave.

SCENE OF MOURNING.

113

Some time after this, the Blackfeet Indians came and dug
them up, and made plunder of their blankets and whatever
they thought worth taking. The Nez Perces, some time af-
terward, came this way and collected their bones and buried
them again. The graves in which they were first buried
were open when we passed, and fragments of garments were
lying about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in
silence over their murdered sons and brothers. The whole
scene was affecting, and I could not but long for the time to
come when they shall settle down in a Christian commu-
nity, and cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and the
gospel shall be sent to the Blackfeet Indians, that they may
imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and good will toward men.
After some time spent in reflections and solemn mourning,
we left the place and proceeded down the river, and en.,
camped near Bonneville's Fort, which he has abandoned,
and which is situated in a small pleasant valley. This
place would be favorable for fur business, was it not on the
ground where conflicting tribes often meet.

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114

SALMON RIVER.

CHAPTER VII.

Salmon river — mineral salt — chimneys — forest tfecs, new species of
pine — geology — sulphur lake — a rare animal — new upecics of squir*
rcls and pheasants — came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia — fer-
ryman — Basaltic formation — fine climate — arrive at Walla Walla.

Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream, and takes
its name from the immense number of salmon found in its
waters. The shores are covered with pebbles of primitive
formation.

I took an observation of latitude, and found it 44° 41'.

September 16th. Passing a mile down the river, we
came to a location of mineral salt. It crops out of the
mountain near its base, on the south side of the river. On
account of the impaired state of my health, and having no fa-
cilities for exploring the mine, I was under the necessity of
passing it with an examination of such specimens only as
the Indians procured. The salt is pure and white, contain-
ing less of the water of crystalization than our common
salt. I took a quantity to replenish my nearly exhausted
store. That the mine may be extensive is probable from
the circumstance, that the geological formations around are
like those about the mines in Poland, and besides it is in the
vicinity of the great Salt Lake, Avhose waters are so strongly
saturated that crystals form upon the shores.

After passing down the river two hours in a north-west
direction, we entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon
river. The river literally passed into the mountain* j for

THE CHIMNEYS.

115

the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three hun-
dred feet liigh, through these mountains several thousand
feet high, was wide enough only for the river to find a pas-
sage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no
more. During the two hours ride, before we entered the
mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was some
level bottom-land along the river, in every direction moun-
tains were rising above mountains, and peaks above peaks,
up to the r gions of perpetual snow. These mountains are
not so much in chains, as of conical forms, with bases in
most instances small in proportion to tiieir height. So
much sublimity and grandeur, combined with so much va-
riety, is rarely presented to view. Horizontal strata, with
interchanges of white, green, red, and brown, were similar
to those seen yesterday ; and in one place, for more than a
mile, a vertical front was presented, facing the south-west, of
one hundred and fifty, and two hundred feet high, resting up-
on a base of conglomerated rock. The stones of which it is
composed are round, of primitive origin, cemented with
marly clay, and of the various colors already mentioned.
The opposite side of the river is studded with dark basalt.

After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, nar-
row, and winding course for several hours, until an open
space spread out before us. Here I beheld what appeared
at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses which
the fire had desolated, leaving the decayed, broken, and
tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer approach
they proved to be masses of slaty rock, ton, twenty, and
even forty feet in height. The firm and impenetrable tex-
ture of their material preserves them from being crumbled
to a level with the earth around them.

From this place we turned more westerly, and passed a

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116

THE BLASTIC PINE.

high mountain, parts of which arc very st(?ep, and encamped
in a vulloy by a strcara of crystal water.

On the 17th, wo pursued our journey over high moun-
tains, which, in some places were intersected by deep ra-
vines, very difficult to be passed. Encamped in a grovo
of large Norway pines.

September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow pro-
gress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my jour-
ney to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, I
took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remainder
to follow at their leisure. We passed over a mountain six
thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day to
arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with
woods, excepting small portions, which arc open and furnish
grass for our horses. The woods are composed mainly of
fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. The
leaves of this new species resemble those of pitch pine,
growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but are shorter
and smaller ; the bark and the body of the tree resemble
the tamarack ; the wood is firm and very elastic. On ac-
count of this last and peculiar property, I have called it the
elastic pine. It grows very tall and straight, and without
branches except near the top. These pines would undoubt-
edly make excellent masts and spars for shipping. On ex-
periments which I made, I found it difficult to break sticks
an inch in diameter. After passing part of the way down
this mountain, we stopped for the night.

We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's
labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance
than when we were with the village. We were much an-
noyed by trees that had fallen across the trait. Encamped
upon the south-east side of a high mountain, where there

REFLECTIONS.

117

was a larfjo opening, a spring of water, and a good supply
of grass for our )i(»rses.

Sal)l)atli, iJ(Uli. We continued in the same encampment.
I expressed my wish to tho <liit>f, that the (Uiy should bo
spent religion' 1y, and tliiit ho 8ht)uld conniiunicutc to his
men, as well us Uc was able, tiio scripture truths he had
learned. Tliis was faithfully done on his part, and he
prayed with thetn with much apparent devotion. I was
interested to see how readily they wer«' disposed to obey to
the extent of their knowledge, and I was afiectcd with the
thought that so few were willing to come and teach these
benighted minds. After they had closed their worship, I
sang a hymn and prayed, and conversed with them.

The indammation in my head continuing, I bled myself
copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but increased
my weakness, so that I could walk only a few rods without
much fatigue. •

Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to
me, I found my heart sinking in despondency, and was
ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains.
It seemed, that sucli was my loss of strength, and I was be-
coming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue of
traveling eight days longer over these mountains, which
are on an average about six thousand feet high ; and as
they range north and south, with only very narrow valleys
between, and our course was only a little north of west, we
were constantly ascending and descending ; and we could
not discontinue our journey for the want of provisions.
The thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of
my mission, and close my life without a sympathising friend
with whom I could converse and pray ; and be buried in

these solitary n\ountains, filled me with a gloom which I

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118

A CURIOSITY.

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knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could
not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night I
sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my
aching, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was a very
good substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and
every morning arose refreshed by sleep.

Monday, 21st. At an early hour we resumed our jour-
ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good
fare they had yesterday, made a long day's journey. I
had noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day,
which is about seven thousand feet high, two days before
we arrived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether
Charlie, my guide, would not depart in this instance from
the common custom of the Indians, which is to pass over
the highest parts of mountains, and to descend into the low-
est valleys.

But we passed the highest point, excepting one peak,
which is nearly perpendicular, and rises like an immense
castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt; and around
it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion. At the
ba.se there are also excavations, around and below which
tfiere is a large quantity of lava. Thi^ is a granite moun-
tain, most of which is in its natural state. The way by
which I calculated the height of these mountains is, that
some of them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as eight
thousand feet, in latitude 42®, is the region of perpetual
snow, there can be no doubt, as these do not vary greatly
from each other, that they average six thousand feet.

I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun-
tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many
tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour
glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one

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INDIAN SIMPLICITY.

119

was balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff
of wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief,
seeing me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying
glass, said, "-these white men know every thing. They
know what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron,
and how to make watches, and how to make the needle al-
ways point to the north." They had seen a compass be-
fore, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that would
keep me from getting lost." A waterfall was seen de-
scending down a high point of this mountain, which, by its
continual foaming, looked like a white belt girding its side.
Left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour and
continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the way the
ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and in some
places even more steep ; sometimes on the verge of dizzy
precipices ; sometimes down slielves of rocks where my
Indian horse would jump from one to another, and in other
places would brace himself upon all fours and slide down.
I had become so weak that I could not walk on foot, but
was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently between
the mountains there would be only space enough for a rush-
ing stream of the purest water to find its way ; the bank on
one side of which would terminate the descent of one moun-
tain, and the other bank commence the ascent of another.
The question often arose in my mind, can this section of
country ever be inhabited, unless these mountains shall be
brought low, and these valleys shall be exalted ? But
they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of wood for
the wide-spread prairies ; and they may contain mines of
treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests for
fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads
may be constructed running north and south, so, that trans-

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120

MOUNTAIN LAKES.

portations may be made south to the Salmon river, and north
to the Coos-coots-ke.*

After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a low
stony place where there was but little grass, for the want of
which some of our horses strayed away. Our men killed a
deer, which was a very agreeable exchange for dried buifalo.

The mountains, over which we made our way on the 23d,
were of primitive formation, with the exception of some parts
which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate predomina-
ted. In one place there were immense quantities of granite,
covering more than a hundred acres, in a broken state, as
though prepared for making walls, mostly in cubic forms.
In some places the change from granite, in its natural state,
to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it would be difficult to
say where the one ended and the other began ; like the
change from day to night. While riding along upon a nar-
row ridge of this mountain, I saw two small lakes a little
down the sides ; one on the right hand, which appeared to
be very black, and the other upon the left was very yellow
with sulphur, issuing from a spring in the mountain side.
These two lakes were directly opposite each other, and not
far distant. I should have examined them more minutely,
had my strength permitted me to go down to them, and again
ascend to where I must have left my horse. There was
also much in the scenery around to admire ; mountain rising
above mountain, and precipice above precipice.

We spent the night in a valley, where there was a small
meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods around

* The name of this river in the journal of Clarke and Lewis, and in
all other writings I have seen, is written Coos.coos-kcc. This signi-
fies the water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water,
Coos, water ;. coots, little; ke, the. The little river. .

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NEW SPECIES OF TREES.

121

were very dense, composed mostly of the new species of pine,
which here were very tall and straight, not however very
large in diameter. The neighborhood of beaver was indi-
cated by the mud dam, and by the barked willows on the
stream. The Indians brought in a wolverine which they
killed.

Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our encamp-
ment, and made good progress through the day. About the
middle of the day, we came where we could look forward
without the sight being obstructed by mountains, and it was
pleasant to have a prospect opening into the wide world.
We continued to descend, until we came into a valley of
considerable extent, through which flows a larue branch of
the Coos-coots-ke. Found to-day a new species of elder,
which grows five or six inches in diameter, and from ten to
twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue and plea-
sant to the taste. Kentuc caught some fine trout.

Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Perces,
which they left last spring. They were in fine order. It
is remarkable that their horses do not wander far from
where they are left, although there are no fences to inclose
them. Here some of the Indians changed their horses and
took fresh ones, relieving those which were worn down with
journeying.

On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile val-
ley, until one in the afternoon, when, contrary to my ex-
pectations, we left this branch of the Coos-coots-ke, which
was too much of a northerly direction, and ascended another
high mountain, densely covered with woods. Among the
largest trees is a new species of fir, single leafed, the bark
th^ and rough like the bark of hemlock, but the balsam is
same as the common fir. I saw more birds in this val-

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122

A RARE ANIMAL.

ley, than in all the country through which I had passed
west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins in great numbers,
the magpie, and with them a new species of bird about as
large as the magpie, its color uniformly a dull red, some-
what resembling chocolate. Thermometer stood at 54°.

On the 2Gth, we proceeded but about four hours on our
way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum-
mit ; the distance to another suitable place for our horses
over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species
of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as
large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color
was a brigiit orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; its fur
appeared to be fine ; its head round and large ; its eyes black,
prominent, and very piercing. I was forward of my Indians,
and when it saw me, it sprang about eight feet up a tree,
ran part of the way up, but appeared afraid to ascend higher.
Attempts were made to obtain it, but witliout success. An
Indian hit it with an arrow, but did not kill it, and it came
down and escaped. I saw in these mountains, a new vari-
ety of striped squirrel, only about half as large as those
found in the United States ; and another kind, in every re-
spect resembling the red squirrel, but in color. It is nearly
black, excepting its under parts, which are rufous, or red-
dish yellow. Also a new species of pheasant, if it may be
called a pheasant. It is much smaller than the common
species ; somewhat lighter colored and more spotted ; its
habits are gregarious like the common quail. It was re-
markably tame, as if unacquainted with enemies ; and
when assailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to be
amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Its flesh
was very good, and furnished an additional supply to our
waning stock of provisions. '^

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■

A chief's anxiety.

123

Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. My
health was no better — sweat profusely last night, and yet
the inflammation was increasing — took from my arm a pint
of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief.

We had religious services both in the morning and after-
noon of this day, as last Sabbath. Charlie prays every
morning and evening with his men, and asks a blessing
when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, my in-
terpreter, came and sat by me, and said, " we are now near
our country, and when we come into it, I wish you to look
over it and see if it is good for missionaries to live in. I
know but little about God — my people know but little — I
wish my people to know more about God." He said he
wished to talk with me much more, and was sorry I had not
a better qualified interpreter.

Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made a
long day's march and emerged from the mountains about
two o'clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as we ex-
pected, we were obliged to travel on until near night, when
we came to another branch of the Coos-coots-ke, at which we
found several lodges of Nez Perce Indians. A salute was
fired, and then we were welcomed with a ceremonious, but
hearty shaking of hands. They feasted us with excellent
dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents*
I was rejoiced to find myself safely through the Salmon
river mountains, and convalescent. These mountains were
far more difficult to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as we
could not take advantage of any valley, but one in which
we journeyed only two-thirds of a day. Excepting in the
middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently
ice was formed during the night. It was a favor that we
Infiid no snow, which often falls upon the tops of these moun-

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124

MEETING WITH INDIANS.

R «

tains very early in the autumn ; nor had we any storms, or
unpleasant weather in our passage. Frequently heavy
gales of winds sweep through these mountains, and prostrate
parts of the forests ; but we had none to endanger us.

On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than
half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov-
ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth.
Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood,
there being but little besides what is found along the streams
of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is
evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at
noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us with the
same friendly expressions, as those did where we encamped
last night. We left the branch of the Coos-coots-ke and
ascended westerly to the upper prairies, which are as fertile
as the lower, and do not suffer more with the drouth. After
a long and fatiguing ride over these prairies, we descended
into a deep gulf, almost enclosed with perpendicular walls
of basalt ; in the bottom of which, we found a large spring
of water, where we encamped.

Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made good
progress, considering the exhausted state of our horses.
Most of the streams were dried up, and one, which is
generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last
night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend-
ing out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of the
high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of
grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses,
contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried grass to
the green. In the afternoon, we went through a section of
country well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yellow
pine and white oak ; where much of the sioil appeared to

rfii

LEWIS RIVER.

125

be very good. Towards night we cams to a stream of
water running west, where we encamped. Thermometer
82° at noon.

Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially
better health, for which I cannot be too tliankful. After
travelling a few miles, we came to several lodijes of Nez
Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as
at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief.
They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was,
and the object of my coming into their country, as their
countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With
these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much
exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed
any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the
deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter from
the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat, except what
they could find upon the prairies.

We arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis
branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the
Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on account
of the summer's drouth there is less water flowing down
its channel than I anticipated.

A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca-
noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and
reminded mo of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat.

This country difRrs much from what I had expected ;
for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply
for grazing, yet there is such want of summer raii.s, that
some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian corn.
The crops sown in the full of the year, or very early in the
spring, would probably be so far advanced before the seve-
rity of the drouth, that they would do well. In general

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126

GEOLOGY.

there is a great want of wood for building, fencing and
fuc' ; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply may
be brought down the Coos-coots-ke. This place connbines
many advantages for a missionary station.

I began to doubt tlie correctness of the statements of
some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses,
and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they
saw this sitle the Rocky Mountains; for as yet I had seen
no wild horses, and on]y a vrri/ few wolves. Encamped
upon the west bank of Lewis river, or as it is more com-
monly called, the Snake river.

On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time,
before all our horses could be found. We started about
eight, and proceeded three hours down the river to a place
where it takes a northerly bend, through a section of moun-
tains which aic difficult to be passed. Our direct course to
Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the river
and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source.
The section of country through which we journeyed to-day
was mountainous. One part of the river along which we
traveled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The lowest
part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high and very cellu-
lar, terminating in a narrow horizontal plain. Above this
is superimposed columnar basalt ; the columns of which
are regular pentagons, varying from two to four feet in di-
ameter, rising forty feet high, perpendicular excepting in
one place, where they were a little inclined. Above this
formation of columns there was a stratum of volcanic stones
and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness,
lying in a confused state. Then upon this another section
of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to
the height of three hundred feet, nearly perpendicular.

riM

CAMMAS ROOT.

127

The pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much
the same appearance, as those composing the <' nt's cause-
way in Ireland. From the best observations I could make,
I was led to conclude that the diirerent sections were raised,
at dilFercnt periods of time, by widely extended subterranean
fires. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other
places, which I have yet seen, is of very dark color, contain-
ing augite, or black oxyd of iron ; and is what Clarke and
Lewis, and those who have copied from them, have called
black rocks.

Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our en-
campment. We had through the day, an uncommonly
high wind from the west, a pleasant sun and serene atmos-
phere. We have had no rain since the 12th of July, while
on the east side of the mountains, and not more than five
cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky Mountains
is excellent, and no country can possess a climate more
conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat hilly
country well covered with grass, we encamped for the
night, and for the Sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an upper
branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found three
lodges of Nez Perccs who were out on a hunt for deer, and
the women were gathering cammas roots. This root in
some degree resembles in taste and nutritive properties the
sweet }X)tato, and constitutes a large item of food for the In-
dians throughout a considerable section of country, this side
Salmon river and Salmon river mountains. The common
tokens of friendship were interchanged, and they presented
us a share of such food as they themselves had.

Sabbath, Oct. 4th. We had public worship, at which all
the men, women and children of three lodges attended.
What there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship,

3!"

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128

VALLEY OF THE WALLA WALLA.

was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the ap-
pearance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what
was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians
manifest to know wliat they must do to please God, and to
obtain salvation.

Employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Explana-
tion of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium
of divinity, and is too much neglected in families and Sab-
bath Schools.

Decamped early, on ihe r)th, and pursued our journey
down the Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of
thirty miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with
the common trees and shrubs of such locaticis, interspersed
with wild roses. The prairie hen, the avos.^t, the robin,
and varieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this as
a favorite retreat ; while the animals, which we have been
seeking for game, desert this delightful place and find their
dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot impressed me
favorably as the situation for ihe missionaries who should
succeed me, and in every thing but its populousness would
furnish advantages beyond any I have as yet seen. Indi-
ans of different tribes border on, and around, this valley,
and the location is therefore less central for any one of
them. They might, however, be brought by degrees to col-
lect and settle down around a mission station, when once it
should be established.

October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour-
ney with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, and
of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs
and passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving
Walla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the Co-
lumbia river the soil became more and more sandy. Before

FRIENDLY RECEPTION.

r3»

we arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by seeing
cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the bottom-
land ; and the sight was not only novel, after having been
so long from civilized life, but the more interesting because
unexpected. As we came near the fort, the Indians fired
their customary salute, and then rushed forward to the gate.
Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, met us, and gave
me a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering a
habitation of civilized men, whoso language was not strange.
I felt that I had cause of thankfulness, that God, in his great
mercy, and by his watchful providence, had brought me in
safety and with restored health to this place. Soon I was
invited into another apartment to breakfast ; and it was truly
pleasant again to sit in a chair, at a tabic spread with fur-
niture, and such luxuries as bread and butter, sugar and
milk, of which I had been deprived for about three months.

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130

FORT WALLA WALLA.

CHAPTER vrir.

Description of Walla Walla — the kind treatment of tlic Indians by tlm
Hudson Bay company — leave Walla Walla for fort Vancouver — lo-
(luacious orator — rapids — introduction to the Cayuse Indians — morn-
ing prospect — long rapids — Volcanic mountains — trial of Indian
generosity — arrival at the falls of the Colund)ia river — rousing cf.
fects of oratory — La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable
subsidence — Cascades — Chenooks arc the Flatheadsuud Ncz Perccs
— dangerous rapids — Indian burying places — Pillar rock — interest.
Jng waterfall — sea fowl — arrive at fort Vancouver.

Fort Walla Walla is situated on tlio soiitli side of the
Coluirdna river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co-
lunibia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called,
by tie people belongin<^ the Hudson Bay Company, Nez
Perce river; and one mile above the Walla Walla river,
in latitude 4()° 2', loniritude 119° IW. Two miles below
the fort there is a ranjje of mountains running nurth and
south, which, though not high, are yet of considerable mag-
nitude ; and where the Cohnnbia passes through, it is walled
up on both sides with basalt, in many places three hundred
feet perpendicular height. The soil, for considerable dis-
tance around, with the exception of some strips of bottom-
land, is sandy, and for the want of summer rains is not pro-
ductive. This establishment is not only supplied with the
necessaries of life, but also with many of its conveniences.
They have cows, horses, hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate
corn, potatoes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; and
might enlarge these and other productions to a great extent.

' 11,

HUDSON DAY COMPANY.

131

Thoy also keep on hand dry j^oods and hardware, not only
ibr their own convenience, but also for Indian trade. Most
of the year they iiave a trood supply of lish, and an abun-
dance of salmon of tiio lirst (pjality.

1 arrived iiero in six months and twenty-three days after
leavinjT home — forty-five days from llciKhn'.vous — and twen-
ty from entering Salmon river mountains.

Wednesday, 7th. Continued in tiiis place. Settled witii
my interpreter, ^ave presents to my Indians, and made ar-
ranfTcments for leavin«f to-morrow, in a canoe propelled by
Indians l)elongin<^ to the Walla VV^illa triijo, for Fort Van-
couver, which is two hundred miles down tlic Colundna.

Tims I am putting myself, without fear, into the iiands of
Indians, wlierc a few years ago an escort of lifly men was
necessary for safety, and shall laive to pass ])laces which
have been buttle grounds between traders and Indians.

The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company
arc worthy of commendation for their good treutnicnt of
the Indians, l)y winch thoy have obtained their friendship
and confidence, and also for the cllbrts, wliicii some few of
tiiem have made to instruct those al)out tiiem in the first
principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard to
equity, humanity and morality. This company is of long
standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and intend to
perpetuate the business ; therefore they consult the prosper-
ity of the Indians as intimately connected with their own.
I have not heard as yet of a single instance of any Indians
being wantonly killed by any of the men belonging to this
company. Nor have I hoard any boasting among thcni of
the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians, that I
have elsewhere henrd.

Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians liaving

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132

A VOYAGE COMMENCED.

got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished
by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given them
their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine o'clock
in the morning, and having passed the usual salutations,
we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which here
is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself in a new
situation — my horses dismissed — in a frail canoe upon the
wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with
rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger Indians,
two hundred miles by water before I could expect to find
any white men ; to pass through several nations whose lan-
guages are entirely different ; yet the change from horse-
back, for months over mountains and plains, through defiles
and ravines, was anticipated with satisfaction.

My three Indians were well acquainted with the river and
with the art of managing the canoe. One of them under-
stood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was very lo-
quacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of im-
portance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the
other two were to do as he should direct. On account of his
important and loquacious habits, I called him my orator.
One of the other two, who took the stern and steered the
canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking man, excepting
the expression of his countenance, which was indicative of
intelligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow,
was an able and well disposed young man. The channel
through the volcanic mountain a little below the fort, is one
of the wonders of nature ; how it was formed through those
immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about three
hundred feet, and for the distance of two or three miles,
remains unexplained. But my attention was so much
taken up with the boiling eddies and the varying currents,

CAYUSE INDIANS.

133

that I (lid not take those observations which under difTerent
circumstances mignt have been made, and which tiie scenery
and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed out
of tiie mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a
roclcy bed, and the water was so broken, that 1 thought it
unsafe to continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians
to put me ashore. My talking Indian said, "/o/5," (good.)
I told him, ivaiitu tois, kapseis, not good, but bad. But still
he said, tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not de-
cline putting me on shore, if there was any particular dan-
ger. The man at the stern put ofF into the middle of the
river, where the water was the smoothest, but where the
current was equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon
the varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ;
and whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the
canoe was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of an eye.
Any failure of right management would have been disas-
trous ; but they kept the canoe in the right direction, and
we shot down with such velocity, as, together with the
breaking in of some water, to cause solicitude. But this
served to make the smooth parts, when we arrived at them,
more pleasant, and my mind more tranquil in regard to
future dangers.

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp-
ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. My ora-
tor, when we had come within hearing, announced our ap-
proach and informed them who I was, and the object of my
tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with all due
respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had not come
with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. They
arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs and principal
men forward, then the more common men, next the women,

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134

MORNING PROSPECT.

according to their rank, the wives of chiefs, the old women,
the young — and then the children according to age. All
things being made ready, the salute was fired, and I landed
and shook hands with all, even the youngest children, many
of whom, when they presented the hand, would turn away
their faces through fear. I made them some presents, and
bought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These
were the first cranberries I had seen west of the Rocky
Mountains, and they were a grateful acid. The Indians ex-
pressed much satisfaction in seeing me, and in the object of
my coming among them. I told them I could not explain to
them what I wished, but they must meet me next spring at
Walla Walla, where I should have an interpreter, and then
I would tell them about God. After again shaking hands
with them, we went on our way.

At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en-
camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who
came about me with the tokens of friendship and kindness,
whidh characterize their nation. Among their acts of kind-
ness they brought me wood, which in this section of the
country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and grass to
make my bed upon.

October 9th. Arose before day, and as soon as any light
appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morn-
ing was pleasant, the country around open and diversified
with rolling prairies and distant mountain tops mellowed
with the opening beams of the rising sun. It was a time
for pleasing contemplations, such as banished all feelings of
solitude, although no sound broke upon the ear, but the regu-
lar timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were
urging forward the canoe whh an accelerated velocity,
greater than the current oi the river would have carried us.

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RAPIDS.

135

About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted
by the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued
to increase, until the Avhite breaking water was presented
to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled
with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among
which the whirling and foaming water was forcing its way.
The only l)artof the river, Avhich presented any appearance
of safety, was along near the south shore. This had some-
what the appearance of a Avake. My Indians made no
movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river.
On my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they point-
ed toward the wake and said, " to/.?." I pointed forward
and toward the north shore, and said, kapscis, bad. They
answered, " ni, kapseis ;" and with the language of signs
accompanying their words, told me they would keep the
canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn
into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of manage-
ment being well established, I made no objection to their
going forward, and in a very short time we had passed the
appai'ent danger, and w'cre gliding along over the smooth
surface on the south side of a large island, about six miles
long.

During the day, the country around was comparatively

level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have been

formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the volcanic

substances, which so generally abound. This section of

the country is well supplied with grass, which during the

summer drouth is converted into iiay. Who can calculate

the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might be kept

here summer and winter, with no other labor than the care

of a few herdsmen and sliopherds. Encamped upon the

north side of the river among some sand hills, a little below

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136

HEAD WIND.

several lodges of the Walla Walla Indians, to whom I had
the usual and formal introduction.

I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different tribes
scattered all along this river, living in harmony without
any feuds or jealousies. It speaks nmch in favor of their
kind and peaceable dispositions.

On the 10th, we arose before day, after a night's comfort-
able rest, and by the first breaking light had our baggage
on board and were under way. Towards the middle of the
day, we came to a more mountainous tract of country, and
at a place where the mountains crossed the river, there
were very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among
islands near the north shore, we made a safe descent.
About noon a head wind, which commenced in the fore part
of the day, had become fresh, and the waves began to
multiply their white caps, so that it was dangerous naviga-
tion for our canoe, and we had to land and wait for a more
favorable time. We encamped on the north side of the
river under a very high and romantic basaltic mountain ;
in some parts near us the rocky walls were more than two
hundred feet in perpendicular height — in one place hanging
over. In some places, and at different altitudes of this im-
mense wall, there were cavities of considerable magnitude,
and in others, wide and deep fissures ; through one of which
passes the road traveled by pedestrians and those on horse-
back. This place is ten miles above the falls of the Co-
lumbia, which the Indians call the tutn turn ; the same ex-
pression they use for the beating of the heart.

About a mile above us, were encamped some Walla Wal-
las, many of whom came to my tent and wished to enter
into trade with me, offering beaver at a low price. I told
them to trade was not my business, any farther than to buy

TRIAL OF INDIAN GENEROSITY.

137

salmon, &c. for food. My orator told me one of them was
a Mcokot, a chief, and would expect a present. As a trial
of their disposition, I told him they had not hrought me any
wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing until
they showed their kindness. But he said I must make the
chief a present and buy of them wood. I replied, icaiitu,
if ho is a chief let him show the generosity of a chief.
Very soon they brought wood, and a fire was made, which
I followed with some presents.

Sabbath, 11th. Continued in the same encampment, and
my heart's desire was much excited for the salvation of
these poor heathen. There were a sufficient number here
to have made a decent congregation if I had possessed any
medium of communication. Their language differs from
the Nez Perces, so that I could have no communication
with them except through my orator, who asked me if he
should teach these Indians what he had learned about God
and his worship. I gave him permission, though I feared he
was influenced more by love of distinction than any higher
motive ; but still, if any true light should be imparted to
them, I would rejoice in it.

I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the
weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we
took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some
time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island,
on the south side of which is a commodious bay, near which
and upon the river De Shutes, which here unites with the
Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians of about
thirty lodges. ^Icre we landed, and my talker raised his
oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the whole village,
calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with their people re-
ceive the [)ersonage with him in due form. It was but a

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138

LA DALLES.

short time before their line was formed, the first cJiiof lead-
ing the way, and oihers according to their rank and age
following, and the ceremony of shaking hands was per-
formed ; and all retired to their lodges again.

There is a great want of neatness among Indians in gen-
eral, but more especiall)^ among those on this river, who
live by fishing.

Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded
by land, upon the south side of the river, by the Falls, and
down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end of the
island where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular fall, is
about two miles ; and here the river contracts, M'hen the
water is low, to a very narrow space, and with only a short
distance of swift water, it makes its plunge twenty feet per-
pendicular ; and then, after a short distance of rapids, dash-
ing against the rocks, moves on in a narrow passage, filled
with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks, called the La
Dalles, four miles ; and then spreads out into a gentle broad
channel. At the Falls and the La Dalles below, there are
several carrying places, where boats and canoes, as well as
baggage, have to be transported. The geological forma-
tion along this distance is singular. With the exception of
a few high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands around are
but little above the river in the freshet rise ; and yet the
channel of the river is through the hardest basalt and amyg-
daloid. Has this channel worn this solid rock formation ?
If so, at what time ? There is no appearance of the chan-
nel having worn perceptibly deeper, since these rocks, from
their melted state, spread out into their present condition,
which must have taken place centuries and centuries ago.
As I have no confidence in theories founded upon conjec-
ture, nor in Indian traditions, I leave the subject for others to

BOSTON TRADING COMPANY.

13Q

tell us how tlicse things took place. Former visiters, among
whom 1 name Doct. Gardner, a learned English naturalist
whom I saw at Oahu, Sand. Islands, expressed his entire
inahility satisfactorily to account for this peculiar phenom-
enon. Nor does the Indian tradition, that the Great Wolf
made this, together with all the scenery that delighted my
eye as I passed down the river, relieve the mind of its
irrepressible curiosity. This is one of the best loca-
tions for salmon iishing, and great numbers of Indians
cjollect in the season of taking them, which coinmen-
ces the last of April, or the first of May, and continues
several monLhs.

At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Capt. Wyeth,
from Boston, with a small company of men going up the
river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intelligent and
sociable man, had the charge of the business of a company
formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the Columbia, and
for trade and trapping in the region of the mountams. The
plan of the company was to send a ship annually around
Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring out goods for trade,
and to take home the salmon and furs which should be ob-
tained during the year. It was expected the profits on the
salmon would defray all common expenses, and that the
profits on the furs would be clear, and yield a handsome
income. But thus far the enterprise has been attended
with many disasters, and the loss of many lives — several
of the men were drowned, and others killed by Indians.

Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians to return, and
TilkT, the first clref of the La Dalles Indians, engaged to
furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort Van-
couver. Encamped with Capt. Wyeth, and obtained from
him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to enable

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140

UNUSUAL PHENOMENON.

me to do common business with the Indians residing along
on the lower part of this river.

Tuesday, 13th. I left at nine o'clock in the morning, in
the canoe with three men furnished by TilkT, and made
good progress down the river, which flows in a wide and
gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is walled
up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the La Dalles
commences a wood country, which becomes more and more
dense as we descend, and more broken with high hills and
precipices. I observed a remarkable phenomenon — trees
standing in their natural position in the river, in many pla-
ces where the water is twenty feet deep, and rising to high
or freshet water mark, which is fifteen feet above the low
water. Above the freshet rise, the tops of the trees are de-
cayed and gone. I deferred forming an opinion in regard
to the cause, until I should collect more data. About the
middle of the day a south wind began to blow, and contin-
ued to increase until it became necessary to go on shore
and encamp, which we did about four in the afternoon.

On the 14th, we did not make much progress on account
of wind and rain. Encamped in a cavern under a large
projecting rock, the upper part of which was formed of ba-
salt, the lower of pudd'ng stone. Although this was at
least six miles above the Cascades, yet the roar of the wa-
ter could be distinctly heard. The same phenomenon of
trees continued. I paid particular attention to the condition
of the shores of the river and adjacent hills and mountains,
to see if there were any escarpments presenting such con-
dition, as would furnish evidence of their having descended
by landslips ; but as there were no such appearances, and
the condition of the trees was the same where there were
no hills or niountains near, I was led to conjecture, that I

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REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE.

141

should find the river at the Cascades dammed up with vol-
canic prodiiction.s ; and I was induced to believe it would
be found so, from the fact, that the river, the whole distance
from the La Dalles, is wide and deep, and moves with a
sluggish current.

On the 15th, tlie wind and rain continuing through the
morning, I did not leave my encampment until noon, when
we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at two o'clock
in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still more nu-
merous, in many places standing in deep water, and we had
to pick our way with the canoe in some places, as through
a forest. Tlie water of the river is so clear, that I had an
opportunity of examining their position down to the spread-
ing roots, and found them in the same condition as when
standing in the natural forest. As I approached the Cas-
cades, instead of finding an embankment formed from vol-
canic eruptions, the shores above the falls were low, and the
velocity of the svater began to accelerate two-thirds of a
mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it is
plainly evident that here has been a subsidence of a tract of
land, more than twenty miles in length, and about a mile in
width. The trees standing in the water are found mostly
towards and near the north shore, and yet, from the depth
of the river and its sluggish movement, I should conclude
the subsidence affected the whole bed. That the trees are
not wholly decayed down to low water mark, proves that
the subsidence is comparatively, of recent date ; and their
undisturbed, natural position, proves that it took place in a
tranquil manner, not by any tremendous convulsion of na-
ture. The cause lies concealed, but the fact is plain.
That parts of forests may in this way submerge, is evident

from similar facts. The noted one on the eastern coast of

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142

THE CASCADES.

Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England, is about fifteen feet
below low water mark, extending eastward a considerable
distance from the shore, of which stumps and roots are seen
in their natural position. So manifest is the evidence of
great changes having taken place by volcanic power, in
these regions west of the Rocky Mountains, both by upheav-
ing and subsidence, tliat we are led to enquire whether there
are not now such agents in operation, and upon such mate-
rials, that the valleys shall be literally exalted, and the
mountains be made low, and waters spring up in the deserts.

The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the
Falls, do npit differ materially from them, except in the
wild romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular
fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form,
to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great im-
petuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice twenty or
thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling descent
most of the way five miles farther, where it meets the tide
waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, in the river,
there are many islands, but none of them are very large —
some are only volcanic rocks. The country about the Cas-
cades, and many miles below, is very mountainous, especial-
ly on the south side. The volcanic peaks are as diversified
in their shapes as they are numerous, being conical, dentic-
ulated, and needle-pointed, rising from one to fifteen hundred
feet. While imagination generally over-draws her pictures,
nature here has furnished abundant scope for all her powers.

A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore, there
is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the only
real Flatheads and Nez Perces, or pierced noses, I have
found. They both flatten their heads and pierce their
noses. The flattening of their heads is not so great a de-

THE PORTAGE.

143

formity as is frcncrally supposscd. From a little above tho
eyes to the apex or crown of the head, there is a depression,
but not generally in adult persons very noticeable. The
piercing of the nose is a greater deformity, and is done by
inserting two small tapering white shells, about two inches
long, through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of
the nose. These shells are of the genus dcntalmm, they

(inhabit the Pacific shore, and are an article of traffic among
the natives. I called at this village to obtain men to carry
our canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished to
engage in trade with me in several articles of small value,
which I declined, informing them that my business was of
a different nature. Whilst detained, the daughter of the
chief, fancifully decked out in ornaments, and in all her
pride and native haughtiness, walked to and fro to exhibit,
to the best advantage, her fitie, erect, and stately person.

After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry
the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rapids,
or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powder and
balls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part of
my baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous
rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large
rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, and
through which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians
ran the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for
their safety ; but they chose to do it. Two years before,
the men of the Hudson Bay Company cordelkd several bat-
teaux down this rapid — part of the men going in the boats,
and part on the shore cordelfhig. The rope of one broke,
and the batteau, in spite of the eflbrts of the men in it, was
hurried out into the surging and whirling waves among the
rocks — capsized, and all were lost.

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144

INDFAN DURYING PLACES.

C<0^

I walked ubout four miles, until I liad passed all the rap-
ids of any sjjccial (laiif,'er. About three-fourths of a mile
below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian path, I
came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which were several
houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and far
better than any I had seen in any Indian country. They
were about sixty feet long, and thirty-five wide, the frame-
work very well constructed and covered with split planks
and cedar bark. A little back of these houses a small
beautiful lake spread itself out, on the surface of which
some dozens of wild ducks wore enjoying the quietness of
its solitude. As I continued down the Indian path, at no
great distance from the village, I came to several deposito-
ries of their dead. They were built of plank split from

Cj)\aM^ balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and
■\^lr^] , five high, and well covered. At one end is what may be
'' ^ called a door, upon which are paintings of various devices,
which do not appear to be designed for any other purpose
than for ornament. Some had painting upon the sides as
well as upon the doors. I had with me two Indians who
paid no particular attention to them, more than we should in

i passing a burying ground. They pointed me to them, and
made a short, solemn pause, without any actions which
would indicate their paying homage to the pictures or any

• other object. The number of these depositories I did not
ascertain, as many of them were so far decayed, as to be
hardly distinguishable ; but there were eight or ten in good

I condition. Below this we passed several houses of less
magnitude than those above ; and while the floors of those

, were on a level with the surface of the ground, these were
sunk about four feet below, and the walls rose only about

, three feet above the ground. It would seem that these were

vtl

BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL.

115

designed for winter habitations, l)ut at this time tlieir occu-
pants were all absent. At the distance of four miles l)elow
* the main cataract, the country, on the north side, spreads
out into a level plain, which near the river is a prairie, a
little distance back covered with dense forests; while on the
south side of the r ver it is very mountainous.

Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, and
we proceeded a few miles farther and encamped below Pil-
lar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of water
which descends the mountain from the south. Pillar rock
is of basaltic formation, situated on the north side of the
river, a few rods from the snore, on a narrow strip of rich
bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, on
the river side perpendicular, and on the others nearly so.
Upon all, except the river side, there are narrow offsets
upon which grow some cedars, and also a few upon the
highest point. The base in proportion to the height, is
very small, giving the whole the appearance of an enor-
mous pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders of
volcanic operations.

A cascade upon the south side of the river first strikes the
view at an elevation of not less than a thousand feet ; and
by several offsets the water descends in a white foaming
sheet at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, presenting the
appearance of a belt laid upon the side of the mountain.
In two places the descent is perpendicular, and the lowest
probably not less than two hundred feet, and before the
stream reaches the bottom, it is dissipated into spray and
disappears, until you see it again collecting itself at the
foot of the mountain, and after winding its way a short dis-
tance, it unites with the Columbia. The whole scene, com-
bining the ruggedness and wildness of nature's most roman-

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146

CIVILIZATION.

tic forms, with its most magnificent, filled my mind with
admiration both of the work and its Author.

On the morning of the 10th, I arose before day, called
my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again
launched out into the broad river, in our frail canoe. For
about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountainous,
forming bold shores ; after which the mountains recede,
and th river spreads out in some places from one to three
miles wide, and an extensive region around presents the
appearance of a rich soil well aaaptcd to agriculture.
There are some fine prairies, but the greatest part is thickly
wooded. In this part of the river are many fertile islands,
some of which are large ;* the current moves on gently,
and the whole scenery around is fascinating. As I de-
scended towards the Pacific ocean, water fowl, such as
geese, swans, and a very great variety of ducks, began to
multiply ; also every now and then seals made their appear-
ance, so that I became cheered with the increasing exhibi-
tions of animated nature, greater than I had witnessed since
leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, about the mid-
dle of the day, on the north shore in a thick grove of large
firs, I saw two white men, with a yoke of oxen drawing
logs for sawing. I hailed them, and enquired of them the
distance to Fort Vancouver. They replied, *' only seven
miles around yonder point, down that prairie." Soon we
came to a very large saw-mill, around which were largo
piles of lumber and several cottages. This looked like bu-
siness upon a much greater scale than I had expected. I
called a short time at this establishment, where I found
several Scotch laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay Com-
pany, with their Indian families. Although it was then
about noon, they offered me a breakfast of peas and fish,

PROVIDENCE.

147

taking it for granted that men wlio travel these western re-
gions, cat only when they can got an opportunity. At two
in the afternoon, we arrived at Fort Vancouver, and never
did I feel more joyful to set my feet on shore, where I ex-
pected to find a hospitable people and the comforts of life.
Doct. J. McLaughlin, a chief factor and the superintendent
of this fort and of the business of the Company west of the
Rocky Mountains, received me with many expressions of
kindness, and invited mo to make his residence my home
for the winter, and as long as it would suit my convenience.
Never could such an invitation be more thankfully received.
It was now seven months and two days since I left my
home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had
been constantly journeying, and the fifty-six last days, with
Indians only. I felt that I had great reason for gratitude to
God for his merciful providences toward me, in defending
and so providing for me, that I had not actually suffered a
single day for the want of food. For months I had no
bread nor scarcely any vegetables, and 1 often felt that a
change and a variety would have been agreeable, but in no
instance did I suffer, nor in any case was I brought to the
necessity of eating dogs or horse flesh. In every exigency
something wholesome and palatable was provided.

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148

FORT VANCOUVER.

CHAPTER IX.

Description of Fort Vancouver— departure for Fort George and mouth
of the Columbia — mouths of the Multnomah — Wappatoo island —
May Dacre — Coffin Rock — Cowalitz river — Indian friendship — Pa-
cific ocean — Gray's bay — Astoria.

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Co-
lumbia river, about sixty rods from the sliore, upon a prairie
of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense woods.
The country around, for a great distance, is generally level
and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, excepting
some prairies interspersed, and has a pleasing aspect. Il
is in north latitude 4.5° 37', and longitude 122'' 50', west
from Greenwich— one hundred miles from the Pacific
ocean. The enclosure is strongly stoccaded, thirty-seven
rods long, and eighteen rods wide, facing the south. There
are about one hundred white persons belonging to this es-
tablishment, and an Indian population of three hundred in
a small compass contiguous. There are eight substantial
buildings within the enclosure, and a great number of
small ones without.

October 17th. After a night's rest in this fort, I left for
Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below, near the con-
fluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the
United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early
departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and
the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should
commence ; and also to avail myself of a jtassage in the
May Dacre, from Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging

WAPPATOO ISLAND.

149

llr

to Captain Wyeth and Company, which was lying twenty-*
three miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multnomah.
Mr. J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist from Philadelphia,
accompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was large and pro-
pelled by Sandwich Islanders, of whom there are many
in this country, who have come here as sailors and laborers.
Five miles below the fort, we passed the main branch of the
Multnomah. It is a large river, coming from the south, and
is divided by islands into four branches at its confluence
with the Columbia. Here commences the Wappatoo island,
so called from a nutritive root found in the small lakes
in the interior, which is much sought for by Indians as
an article of food. This island is about eighteen miles
long, and five miles wide, formed by a part of the Multno-
mah, branching off about six miles up the main river, run-
ning in a westerly and north-westerly direction, and again
uniting with the Columbia eighteen miles below the main
branch. The branch which flows around and forms the
island, is about fifteen rods wide, and of sufficient depth for
small shipping most of the year. It was upon this island
the Multnomah Indians formerly resided, but they have be-
come as a tribe, extinct. The land is very fertile, and most
of it sufficiently high to be free from injury by the June
freshet. Some parts of it are prairie, but the greatest part
is well wooded with oak, ash, balsam fir, and the species ot
poplar often called balm of Gilead, and by most travel-
ers, cotton-wood. At the south-west of this island, there is
a range of mountains which render a space of the country
broken, but beyond these, it is said by hunters, that there is
an extensive valley well adapted to agriculture.

We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, at

iive o'xjlock in the afternoon, and were politely received on

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150

MAY DACRE,

board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored alongside
a natural wharf of basalt.

Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a
small prairie back from the river, to be free from the noise
of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing for
their voyage ; and part of it I passed in the state room
which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament
the entire disregard manifested by many towards (rod's
holy Sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred.
Those who will not submit to divine authority, must reap
the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuse
the mercy of God with impunity.

Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the
tide, about three miles, but for the want of wind anchored.
In the afternoon, I went on shore for exercise, taking with
me a kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for assistance in
any danger. I made a long excursion through woods and
over prairies, and found the country pleasant and fertile.
The grass on the prairies was green, and might furnish
subsistence for h;:rds of cattle. When will this immensely
extended and fertile country be brought under cultivation,
and be filled with an industrious population ? From time
immemorial, the natives have not stretched forth a hand to
till the ground, nor made an effort for the earth to yield a
single article of produce, more than what springs up spon-
taneously ; nor will they, until their minds are enlightened
by divine truth. No philanthropist, who is not under the
influence of Christian principles, will ever engage in the
self-denying work of enlightening their minds, and arousing
them from their indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these
western shores, the work of destruction, introduced by those
who would be called the friends of man, is going forward.

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DEER ISLAND — COFFIN ROCK.

151

The Indians in tiiis lower country, that is, below the Cas-
cades, are only the rcmiumis of once numerous and power-
ful nations.

The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an
opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal-
ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759,
and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to be about
seventy-six and a half years. Its train of light was very
percept il)le and about twelve degrees hi length.

We had a favourable wind on the 20th, which, with the
current of the river, enabled us to make good progress ow
our way. Among the many islands, with which the lower
part of this river abounds. Deer island, thirty-three miles
below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and
while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the interior
is chiefly a prairie covered wiih an exuberant growth of
grass and vines of different kinds, excepting the grape, of
which there is none west of the Rocky Mountains of natur-
al growth. In the interior of this island there are several
small lakes, the resort of swans, geese and ducks. This
island was formerly the residence of many Indians, but they
are gone, and nothing is left except the remains of a large
village.

Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one
called Coffin Rock, twenty-three miles below Deer island,
situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet
above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered
with canoes, in which the dead are deposited, which circum-
stance gives it its name. In the section of country from
Wappatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, instead
of committing their dead to the eartii, deposit them in ca-
noesj and these are placed in such situations as arc most

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152

CAPT. LAMBERT AND THE SKILLOOTS CHIEF.

secure from beasts of prey ; upon such precipices as this
island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made for
the purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with mats,
and split planks are placed over them. The head of the
canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole made
for water to escape.

A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river
coming from the north-east, flows into the Columbia, which
is about thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for boats a
very considerable distance. The country up this river is
said to equal, in richness of soil, any part of the Oregon
Territory, and to be so diversified with woods and prairies,
that the farmer could at once reap the fruits of his labor.

We anchored for the night, on account of numerous sand,
bars and windings of the navigable channel. The evening
was cloudy, and there was the appearance of a gathering
storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills, that the
situation was considered safe.

The wind, on the 21st, was light, which rendered cur pro-
gress slow. This section of the country is mountainous,
the ranges running from the south-east to the north-west,
and covered with a very dense and heavy growth of wood,
mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skilloots with a few of
his people came on board. He was very talkative and sport-
ive. When he was about to leave, he told Capt. L. that as
they had been good friends, and were now about to sepa-
rate, he wished a present. Capt. L. told his steward to give
him a shirt. The chief took it and put it on, and then said
" how much better would a new pair of pantaloons look
with this shirt." The captain ordered him the article asked
for. Now, said the chief, " a vest would become me, and in-
crease my influence with my people." This wfts also given.

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PILLAR HOCK.

irrs

Then ho added, " well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see
each other again, can you see me go away without a clean
blanket, which would make me a full dress." The captain
answered, "go about your business ; for there is no end to
your asking so long as I continue to give." Then the chief
brought forward a little son, and said, " he is a good boy ;
will you not make him a present?" Capt. L. gave him a
few small > "icles, and they went away rejoicing over the
pre ts w h they had rect ' ^ instead of regretting
the departure of the May Dacre. We passed to-da;y Pillar
rock, whicli stands isolated more than a half mile from the
north shore, composed of basalt, and is about forty feet high
and fifteen in diameter. We anchored a few miles below.

On tlic morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable
tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way whh a brisk
wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread out
into a buy, but owing to many slioals, the navigation is
difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide set
us afloat again, aud soon the great Pacific ocean opened to
our view. This boundary of tiic " far west " was to me an
object of groat interest ; and when I looked upon the dark
rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of five
thousand miles, without an intervening island until you ar-
rive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thougiit was required,
like conteini)lating infinity, which can measure only by
succession its expansion and sublimity. Like the vanish-
ing lines of perspective, so is contemplation lost in this ex-
tent of ocean.

As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the
right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in which

: "t'

* Chief, or gentleman.
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154

ASTORIA.

on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia anchored, and
from whose commani' ;r the bay took its name. Nearly op-
posite we passed Tongue Point, which extends about two
miles into the bay or river, from the south. It is consider-
ably elevated, rocky, and covered —ith woods. Soon after
this, Astoria was annoi jed. My curiosity was excited. I
looked, but could not discover what to all on board was so
plainly seen — I blamed my powers of vision— -and reluc-
tantly asked the captain, where is Astoria? "Why," he
replied, " right down there — that is Astoria." I saw two
log cabins, and said within myself, is that the far-famed
'^New York of the west ?"

SORT GEORGE.

155

CHAPTER X.

description of Fort George — mouth of the Culuinbia — dangerous bar
— rnountainims coast — varieties of timber— good location for a mis.
sionary station — continued rains — dense forests — excursion in a
oanoc down the bay — view of the coast — disasters at the entrance
of the Columbia — ship William and Anne — ship Isabella — Tonquin
— Japanese junk — reflections — water fowl — return to Fort Vancou-
ver — the regard Indians show the dead — Indian kindness.

When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort
George (Astoria) is situated, Captain L. niannoil a boat to
take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his
respects to the governor, who had tlio politeness to meet us
at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to his
dwelling. After having interchanged the curstomary salu-
tations and made a short stay, tlio captain re-embarked and
made his way for Cape Disappointment ; and the wind and
tide being favorable, ho passed the dangerous bar without
any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort George
is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from Cape
Disappointment, is without any fortifications, has only two
small buildings made of hevved logs ; about two acres
cleared, a part of whicli is cultivated with potatoes and
garden vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the
Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose of trade with the
few remaining Indians, who reside about these shores.
Though this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the time
must come, when at the mouth of this noble river there will
be a place of business, and especially may this be expected,

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156

MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA.

as tliis bay affords the only good harbor for a long distance
on this coast. I should think the north side of the bay, a
little above the cape, adjoining what is called Baker's bay,
would be the most desirable location for a town, as that is
the safest place for ships to ride at anchor. On that side
of the Columbia bay, the country is more open and pleasant
for a commercial town. On the south side, where Astoria was
located, the mountains or high hills come down very near
the shore, are rocky and precipitous, preventing a southern
prospect, and in the short winter days of a north latitude of
46*^ 17' they almost exclude the sun.

A difficulty, of a nature that is not easily overcome, exists
in regard to the navigation of this river, which is the sand-
bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the bar
, from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of that
distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms deep,
and in one place only five, and the channel is only about
Haifa mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that
there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above
a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar,
and there is no passing it except when the wind and tide are
both very favorable. Without the bar there is no ancliorage,
and there have been instances, in the winter season, of ships
laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for an opportunity to
pass ; and a good pilot is always needed. Perhaps there
have been more lives lost here, in proportion to the number
of those who have entered this river, than in entering almost
any other harbor in the world. But the calamities have been
less frefiuent for some years past, than formerly ; and should
a steam-boat be stationed at the cape, to tow vessels over,
when business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the
expense, the delays and dangers would be greatly diminished.

VARIETIES OF TIMBER.

157

The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the
river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ;
extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be-
tween Chenook bay on the north and Youngs' bay on the
south ; and seven wide between Fort George and Chenook
point. It is filled with many sand-bars, and one, which is
called Sand island, a little within the capes, seen only when
the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when not in the
charge of skilful pilots.

The section of country about the sea coast is rough and
mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and dense
forest of any part of America of which I have any know-
ledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus, but I
saw none of the species commonly called pine, any where
below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which there are
three species, constitute the greatest part of the forest trees.
White cedar, sprur e, hemloc, and yew, are interspersed.
Three species of oak, of which the white is most common,
prevail in small sections ; and in some low bottom-lands,
the species of poplar, called the balm of Gilead, or bitter
cotton wood, predominates. The balsam fir grows very
large ; not unfrequently four and six feet in diameter, and
two hundred feet high. I measured one which was eight
feet in diameter, and about two hundred and fifty feet high.
As I do not here intend to enter upon the dendrology of this
country, I pass farther remarks upon this subject for the
present.

The quality of the land is good ; and some tracts of this
mountainous iron bound coast might easily be brought un-
der cultivation. One section about Youngs' bay, extending
to and about Point Adams. This would be a favorable lo-
cation for a missionary station, where access could be had

158

LAND EXCUKSION.

to tli(3 Clalsop and Killaniook Indians, who arc said to be
numerous.

At this season of the year, there are hut few Indians
who reside about this trading j)ost, finding it more fur their
comfort to retire into tlie forests during the rainy season of the
winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along rivers
and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and where some
game is found to add to their winter's stock of provisions.

During my continuance in this place it was my intention
to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from thence
down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said aflbrds a very
extensive and interesting prospect. But from day to day it
rained, and the high winds created such a sea in the whole
bay, that it was not safe to attempt the passage.

On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very un-
comfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased, ac-
companied with snow, which, however, melted as fast as it
fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the severity
of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and came in
from the ocean in great numbers, flying and screaming, as if
in search of a safe retreat.

The storm being somewhat abated, on the 26th, Mr.
Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our
rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise.
But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with
various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossible
to make any progress, and wo did not penetrate the woods
more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and turned
our course back, but our return, with diligent efforts, oc-
cupied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and
shrubbery is indicative of a rich soil, no part of the world
can surpass the country about these shores.

A WATER EXCURSION.

150

Tlio mornin<r of the 27tli was j)loasant and inviting for a
water excursion ; hut on account of sudden clianires of
weather, whicli arc conunon at this season of the year, I
did not think host to cross the wide hay, hut took four (Jhc-
nook In(hanM, and a half hrccd named Thos. l^ish Kiplin, who
could speak English, and went in a large canoe down to
Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from the fort. There
was a gentle wind from the east, which favored hoisting a
small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail until it increased
to the rate of eight miles an hour ; and by this time the
waves Jiad become so high, and tli white caps wefe so nu-
merous, that to one not acquainted with nauticni. adventures,
the danger in a canoe appeared great. We < ould only run
before the wind, and when we wore upon the [up of oni wave,
it seemed the next plunge would be fatal. Fear^ v^re of
no avail in this situation, and I therefore kept up such con-
versation as was calculated to suppress any which miglii:
arise in the minds of the men. It was interesting to see how
the Indians would take the waves with their paddles so as
to favor the safety of the canoe. But our rapid progress
soon brought us to the shore near Point Vdams. Here a
new and unexpected difficulty presented itself, and this was
the almost utter impracticability of effecting a landing in
the high surf; but my skilful mariners watched anopportn-
nity to shoot the canoe forward as far as possible on a flow-
ing wave, and as soon as it ^roi^% they leaped into the wa-
ter and seized the canoe and lightened it over the returning
surge, and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. This
management was an ocular demonstration of the skill of
Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me and
walked sevecal miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach,
so far around to the south, that I had a view of the coast

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160

LOSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE.

north and south, as far as the eye could reach. High basaltic
rocks, in most parts perpendicular, lined the shores. Who
but that Being, who sets bounds to the sea, and has said to
the proud waves, hitherto shalt thou come and no farther,
reared these volcanic walls ? This vast expanse of ocean
and these stupendous works of God naturally fill the mind
with awe.

In returning, I walked several miles beyond the place
where we landed, along the shore towards Youngs' bay, and
went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNiel, which was
on its way up to the fort. In my excursion about Clatsop
and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing the dead,
deposited as I have already described.

I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia,
and Sand island, as dangerous to those who were not well
acquainted with the entrance into this river. In the year
1828, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little
within the bar. All on board, twenty-six in number, were
lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum-
stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to
tell the story. There were conjectures that after the ship
had run aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, killed
the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very strange,
as they were not far from the shore, and the beach was
sandy, that none escaped. The Indians carried off and se-
creted whatever of the goods ihey could find. The men of
the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to deliver up
what they had taken away. They sent Dr. McLaughlin at
Fort Vancouver two small articles of no value. Dr. M.
with an armed force went down to the Chenooks and de-
manded a surrender of the goods. The chief, with his war-
riors, put himself in the attitude of resistance, and fired

"i-' .''

ISABELLA AND TONQUIN.

161

upon the men of the Hudson Bay Company. They re-
turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let
thorn know with what force they had to contend, if they
pcrsisiod in their resistance. On this the Indians all fled
into the woods. Dr. McLaughlin witli his men landed and
searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst
they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and draw-
ing near — and cocked his gun, but before he had time to
fire, one of the white men shot him down. None besides
were hurt. This was done, as the Hudson Bay Company
say, not so much for saving the value of the property, as to
teach the Indians not to expect profit from such disasters,
and to take away temptation to murder white men for the
sake of plunder.

On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast
away upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand island, which is
a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men
all deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, made
their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if they
had remained on board and waited the tide, she might have
l)een saved. Tlic cargo was mostly saved.

In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr.
Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the
mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar.
The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn
of the dangers, and liis great want of prudence.

About thirty miles south of this river, are the remains of

a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known by whom

she was owned, nor from wliat part of the world she came,

nor when- cast away. The Indians frequently get bees-

wax from her. It is hi<rhlv probable that she was from some

part of Aula.

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162

JAPANESE.

A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of
Cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men only
three were saved. In the following May, Captain McNeil,
of the Lama, brought the three survivors to Fort Vancouver,
where they were kindly treated by the gentlemen of the
Hudson Bay Company, and in the following October, were
sent to England, to be forwarded to their own country and
homo.* This junk was loaded with rich China ware, cot-
ton cloths, and rice. . In the same year eleven Japanese, in
distress, were drifted in a junk to Oahu, Sandwich islands^

(It is not very uncommon that junks and other craft have
been found by whale ships in the great Pacific ocean,
in a state of starvation, without the nautical instruments

' and skill of mariners necessary to enable them to find their

Sway to any port of safety. Undoubtedly many are entirely

.lost, while others drift to unknown shores.

May not such facts throw light upon the original peopling

of America, which has engaged the attention of men for a
! long period. While one man demonstrates to his own sat-
isfaction, that the first inhabitants of this continent must
have crossed from the north-east part of Asia, because of the
resemblance of the people to each other, and the ease with

* From documents which have come to hand, since the publication
of the first edition of tliis work, I have been led to admire the wisdom
of Providence, as developed in the case of these three Japanese. On
their way to tlieir country, they were brought to Macao. It is a well
known fact that the missionaries have been endeavoring to gain ac-
oss to the island of Japan, and to obtain the means of acquiring tho
language of the inhabitants. These three Japanese, having been so
long in foreign countries, were afraid to go to their own country, with-
out permission from their government, and therefore Mr. Gutzlaff was
enabled to obtain them as teachers, and to assist him in translating
the Scriptures, and other tracts, for distribution among the otherwise
inaccessible population of Japan, and thus to impart to them the riches
of the Gospel of Jesus Christ.

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DIFFERENT THEORIES.

163

which the strait is passed in canoes ; another, with no less
certainty, proves from the diversity of languages, from the
impossibility of tracing their origin, and from other reasons,
that an equatorial union of Africa and America must have
existed in some age of the world since the universal deluge,
and that some violent convulsion of nature has since dis-
severed them. Others would confine the aborigines of this
continent to the descendants of the Jews, and industriously
trace in their customs, the ancient worship and rites of God's
peculiar people. Some see in them the confirmation of their
favorite theory, that human institutions and states, like hu-.
man and vegetable nature, have their birth, growtli, maturi-
ty, and decay ; ',nd believe that, as it respects these tribes,
these tendencies have already, for centuries, been in opera-
tion to produce their extinction. But from whatever single
or numerical causes they have had their origin, their own
traditions, and the histories of more civilized nations seem
unable to inform us. Physical causes alone, we think, are
adequate to account for the many features of resemblance
which they possess, though they might, at different and dis-
tant periods of time have been drifted, or in any other man-
ner found their way, from remote countries.

About this time of tiie year, water fowl of various genera
and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the
season advances, they gradually proceed into the interior of
the country, and the rivers and lakes abound with them.
Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way over us, and
their screams, particularly those of the swans, are at times
almost deafening. The swan is not of the species common
in the United States. It is the Bewick's swan, but is char-
acterized by the same unsullied plumage ; its attitudes and
motions, while sailing over its liquid element, are equally

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164

RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER.

graceful, and its voice is even louder and more sonorous.
Of the geese there are four kinds ; the white, white fronted,
the Canada, and Hutcliins. Of the ducks, there are tlic
black or surf duck, the canvass-back, the blue-bill, the long-
tailed, the harlequin, the pin-tail, and the golden-eyed.
The number of these water fowl is immense, and they may
be seen on the wing, swimming upon the waters, or search-
ing for food along the shores. They constitute a large item
of Indian living and trade, and find a conspicuous place up-
on the tables of the j^entlemen cno;a<jjed in the fur business.

Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on board a
canoe, going on an express from the Lama, recently arrived
fi'om a northern voyage to and about Queen Charlotte's
island, to Fort Vancouver. The canoe was large, carrying
about fifteen hundred weight including men and baggage,
manned by three white men and three Indians. The day
was more pleasant than for some time past, which was a
favorable circumstance for passing through the bay, and
around Tongue Point, where the current was st ' :rong that
it required the full exertion of the men to double it. Ten
miles further we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles above
which we encamped on the north side, where the mountains
came down so close to the shore, that we hardly found room
1o pitch my tent above high tide water. The men made a
large fire, which was cheering and comfortable, and the
supper which they prepared A\'as eaten with a keener ap^ j-
tite than many a one amidst all the appliances of wealtli
and luxury.

On the 29th, we arose before day, and were willing to
take an early departure from a place where tide and moun-
tains disputed the territory. By diligently pursuing our
way until eight in the evening, we made forty-five miles,

REGARD FOR THE DEAD.

165

which was a great day's work in going up the river against
the current, which is strong when the tide is setting out.
I noticed on my return a singular rocky point on the north
shore, a short distance below the Cowalitz, rising nearly
perpendicular about one hundred feet, separated from the
adjacent high hills, and very much in the form of Coffin
Rock. It was covered with canoes containing the dead. m,i -aiM
These depositories are held in great veneration by the In- - Q
dians. They are not chosen for convenience, Ijut for secu- ^-■'
rity against ravenous beasts ; and are often examined by
the friends of the deceased, to see if the remains of the dead
repose in undisturbed quiet. And such is their watcliful
care, tluit the anatomist could rarely make depredations
without detection, or with impunity. And if they have
such regard for the dead, are they without aifcction for their
living relatives and friends ? Arc they "callous to all the
passions but rngc?'' Arc they "steeled against sympathy
and feeling ?" And have they no happiness except what
" exists in the visionary dreaming of those, who never con-
templated their actual condition ?" Have those, who charge
upon the Indian character " sullen gloom, want of curiosity
and surprise at what is new or striking," had extensive per-
sonal acquaintance with many dilFerent Indian nations and
tribes ? and have they gained their familiar i'ricndshii) and
confidence? Jl am firm in the belief, that the character of
junabuscd and uncontaminated Indians will not lose in com-
parison with any other nation that can be named ; and the
only material dillerence between man and man, is produced
by the imbibed principles of the Christian religion.

Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favor-
able moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick-
ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of tho

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166

INDIAN KINDNESS.

necessity of finding an encamping place ; and while doing
this, we ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting us
in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the log
and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got otT safely.
After passing round a point we saw a light on the north
shore, to which we directed our course and landed, where
we found a small company of Indians encamped under a
largo projecting rock, giving shelter from the storm. They
kindly shared their accommodations with us, and my tent
was pitched under the concavity of the rocks ; and mats,
skins, and blankets upon small stones, made me a comforta-
ble bed. A good fire and refreshing supper obliviscited the
labors of the day and dangers of the evening.

Arose on the 30th before day, and although the morning
was rainy, yet it was sufficiently calm for the express to
prosecute their voyage. I arranged my mats and skins so
as to shield myself and baggage from the rain ; but the
men whose business it was to propel the canoe, were exposed
to the storm. After a few hours' labor and exposure, we ar-
rived at the place where the May Dacre had made her har-
bor, near where the southern section of the Willamette
discharges its waters into the Columbia. We brought our
canoe into a small bay indented in the basaltic rocks, and
drew it so far upon the shore, that it was thought safe with-
out any other security ; and all hastened to kindle a fire in
a thatched building, which was constructed by some Kana-
kas for the accommodation of the May Dacre. This shel-
ter was very desirable to protect us from the storm, and to
give the men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Whilst
Are w^ere preparing and eating our breakfast, the flowing
tide, which swells the river and slackens the current, but
does not stop it, took our canoe from its moorings, and

ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER.

167

drifted it a considerable distance down the river. Some In-
dians whose residence was far up the Cowalitz, and who
were descending the river in tlieir canoes, saw it and re-
turned with it before we knew it was gone. This act proved
them to be susceptible of kindness, and increased my con-
fidence in their integrity. The canoe contained valuable
baggage, and we should have been left without any means
of "oinij on our way. We could not have crossed tlie Wil-
lamette nor Columbia rive**, and if this had been accom-
plished, still to have attempted a return by land would
have been an almost hopeless undertaking, as the forest had
an undergrowth which rendered it quite impassable. The
Indians are accustomed so much to travel in canoes, that
even the poor accomodation of a trail was not to be found
liere, and we should have been compelled to dispute every
inch of the way with our hatchets. Before the middle of
the day, the storm abated, and the remainder of our way to
Fort Vancouver was pleasant, at which place we arrived
before evening. We were less than three days in accom-
plishing the passage from one fort to the other, and these
were the only three calm days for a long time before and
after.

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WINTER QUARTERS.

•

CHAPTER XI.

Review of journcyings — school — journey up the Willamette — walk
upon the pebbly shore — falls — settlement on the Willamette — Me.
thodlst mission — epidemic — voyage down the river — hospitality of
Wanaxka — construction of his house — Fort William on the Wap.
patoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits — return to Fort
Vancouver.

Here, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and
welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Com-
pany, I took up my residence for the winter ; intending to
make such excursions as the season will admit and the ob-
ject of my tour demand. As this is the principal trading
post of the company, west of the Rocky Mountains, it may
be expected, that many Indians from different parts of the
country for considerable distance around, will be seen here
during winter, and more information may be obtained of
their character and condition than in any other course I
could pursue. Here also traders from different stations
west of the mountains will come in for new supplies, of
whose personal acquaintance with Indians I may avail
myself.

Sabbath, November 1st. By invitation, I preached to a
congregation of those belonging to this establishment Avho
understand English. Many of the laborers are French Ca-
nadians, who are Roman Catholics, and understand only
the French language.

This trading post presents an important field of labor,
and if a Christian influence can be exerted here, it may be

REVIEW OF JOURNEYINGS.

169

of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian population.
Let a branch of Christ's kingdom be established here, with
its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted and diffused,
and this place would be a centre, from which divine light
would shine out, and illumine tins region of darkness.
Tliis is an object of so much importance, that all my pow-
ers, and energies, and time, must be employed for its ac-
comj)lishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a winter of
idle confinement before mo.

Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings
since I left my home, I can say, though long in time and
distance, yet they have been pleasant and full of interest.
So diversified has been the country through which I have
passed, and so varied the incidents, and so few real hard-
ships, that the time and distance have both appeared short.
Although this mission was thought to be one which would
probably be attended with as great, if not greater dangers
and deprivations than any which had been sent into any
part of the world, yet my sufferings have been so small,
and my mercies so great, that I can say, if this is taking
up the cross, let none be dismayed ; for surely Christ's
yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought much
on the prospect of having an opportunity to see whether I
could " rejoice in sufferings" for the heathen, " and fill up
that which is behind of the afllictions of Christ in my fiesh
for his body's sake, which is the church," but the protect-
ing providence of God was so conspicuous and his mer-
cies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear to
be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough
to teach me more sensibly tlie meaning of the petition,
" give us this day our daily bread ;" and the truth was
comforting, that " the Lord giveth to all their meat in

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170

SCHOOL.

1 i

due season. " I can truly say, "hitherto the Lord hatlj
helped me."

I am very agreeably situated in this place. Rooms in a
new house are assigned me, well furnished, and all the at-
tendance which I could wish, with accc .'s to as many valu-
able books as I have time to read ; and opportunities to rido
out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country ; and in
addition to all these, the society of gentlemen, enlightened,
polislied, and sociable. These comfcn-ts and privileges
were not anticipated, and are therefore the more grateful.

There is a school connected with this establishment for
the benefit of the children of the traders and common labor-
ers, some of wliom are orphans whose parents were attach-
ed to the Company ; and also some Indian children, who
are provided for by the generosity of the resident gentle-
men. They are instructed in the common branches of the
English language, such as reading, writing, arithmetic,
grammar and geography ; and together wi h these, in reli-
gion and morality. The exercises of the school are closed
with singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken by their
teacher to a garden assigned them, in which tliey labor.
Finding them deficient in sacred music, I instructed them
in singing, in which they made good proficiency, and de-
veloped excellent voices. Among them was an Indian boy,
who had the most flexible and melodious voice I ever heard.

It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complexion
is seen in the half-breed children. Generally they have
fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The children of
the school were punctual in their attendance on the three
services of the Sabbath, and were our choir.

Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, though
generally very rainy at this season of the year, as I wished

JOURNEY UP THE WILLAMETTE.

171

to explore the country up the Willamette river, I enihraced
an opportunity of going with Mr. Lucicr and family, who
Were returning in a canoe to their residence about fifty
miles up that river. Doctor McLaugidin furidslicd and
sent on board a stock of provisions, three or four times more
than I should need, if nothing should occur to delay us, but
such a precaution, in this country, is always wise. We
left Fort Vancouver about one o'clock in the aitcrnoon,
and proceeded five miles dow i the Columbia to the en-
trance of the Multnomah, and about fifteen up tlie Willa-
mette before we encamped. The name Multnomah, is
given to a small section of this river, from the name of a
tribe of Indians who once resided about six miles on both
sides from its confluence with the Columbia, to the branch
which flows down the southern side of the Wuppatoo island.
Above this it is called the Willamette. The tide sets up
this river about thirty miles, to within a few miles of the
falls, and through this distance the river is wide and deep,
affording good navigation for shipping.

The country about the Multnomah, and also some mile^
up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in
the June freshet ; but as we ascend, the banks become
higher, and are more generally covered with woods. The
country around contains fine tracts of rich prairie, sufii-
cicntly interspersed with woods for all the purposes of fuel,
fencing and hmiber.

A chain of mountains running from the 80uth-east to the
north-west, and through which the Columbia river passes
below Deer island, extends along the west shore of this
river for some distance, near and below the falls.

There are probably as many Indians who navigate this
river with their canoes, as any of the rivers in the lower

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172

FALLS OF THE WILLAMj'Tii:.

country ; many of wliom I had an oppor ..iniiy of obsif rvin^
to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of who. o paddles
broke in upon the frcnerul .silence. One company overtook
us towards evcninjf, and encamped with us upon the eleva-
ted shore on the cast side of the river. Owinj^ to the damp-
ness of the day, and previous rains, we had some difHeulty
in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished, and tiio
wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent pitched be-
fore a large fire, under the canopy of wide branching trees,
I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket with as
much satisfaction as could be felt in any splendid mansion.
The blaze of dry crackling fir threw brilliancy around,
softened by the dark forest, like the light of the astral
lamp ; and the burning balsam perfumed the air. The
latter part of the night, I suffered more with the cold than
at any time in all my journeying, not having taken with
me as many blankets as the season required.

The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and
rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the
river, which collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the sur-
rounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fancies,
which works of art may intimate, but whicli only na^re can
perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the day, we
passed several basaltic islands, some of them of sufficient
magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points,
l)etween which the current was strong, requiring much ef-
fort for us to make headway. Part of the way from our
last encampment to the fulls, which was six miles, I walked
along upon the pebbled shore, wlicrc I found calccdony,
agate, jasper, and cornelian of good quality. Two miles
below the falls, a large stream comes in from the south-east,
called Pudding river. Its entrance maks a strong current,

SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE.

i:y

nliic!) we Ibuiul dilKciilt ti) stem, so tlmt we were drifted
i)uck ill spito of all our cflbrts ; but in the second attempt
we succeedcfl. Wo arrived at the fulls of llie Wilhimetto
fit two o'clock in the uftcriioon and hired eight Clouffh-e-wall-
hali IiitliuiiH to carry the cunoo by the falls, the distance of
half a mile, and proceeded about five miles farther before
cvenini^. These fulls with the scenery around have much
to cliann and interest. The river above spreads out into a
wide, (ifcp basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within
a half mile of the ialls, when its velocity increases, its
width diminishes, ediliesaro formed in which the water turns
back as if loth to make the jjlunge, but is forced forwaiil by
the water in tiic rear, and when still nearer it breaks upon
the volcanic rocks scattered across the channel ; then, as if
resigned to its fate, smooths its agitated surges, and precip-
itates down an almost perpendicular of twenty-live feet, pre.
senting a somewhat whitened column. It was a pleasant
day, and the rising mist formed in the rays of the sun a
beautiful bow ; and the grass about the falls, irrigated by
the descending mist, was in fresii green. The rocks over
which the water falls, and along the adjacent shores, are
amygdaloid and basalt. The opportunities liere for water
power "arc eijual to any that can be found. There cannot
be a better situation for a factory village than on the east
side of the river, where a dry wide-spread level extends
some distance, and the basaltic shores form natural wharves
for shipping. The whole country around, particularly the
east side, is pleasant and fertile. And can the period be far
distant, when there will be here a busy population ? I could
hardly persuade myself that this river had for many thou-
sand years, poured its waters constantly down these falls

without having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in

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174

mCKEYS SETTLEJMKNT.

-4''

these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was
not the hour for the ringing of the hells. It was two o'clock,
and all was still, except the roar of the falling water. I
called to recollection, that in the year 1809 I stood by the
falls of Genesee river, and all was silence except the roar
of the CL aract. But it is not so now ; for Rochester stands
Avhere I then stood.

Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, wo went
on board the ca'i^e and pursued our way up the river, which
for thirty miles runs from a westerly direction, and at half
past one, we arrived at McKey's settlement. This and Jar-
vis' settlement, twelve miles above, contain about twenty
families. The settlers are mostly Canadian Frenchmen
Avitli Indian wives. There are a very few Americans.
The Frenchmen were laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay
Company, but have left that service, and having families
they have commenced farming in this fertile section of coun-
try, which is the best of th.'^ Oregon Teritory that I have as
yet seen. It is well diversified with woods and prairies, the
soil is rich and sufficiently dry for cultivation, and at the
same time well watered with small streams and springs.
These hunters, recently turned to farmers, cultivate the
most conimon useful productions — wheat of the first quality
to as great an extent as their wants require. A small grist
mill is just finished, which adds to their comforts. They
have a common school in each settlement instructed by
American young men who are competent to the business.

Aii opinion extensively prevails, that an American colo-
ny is located somewhere in this Territory, but these two
settlements are the only farming establishments which exist
here, if we except those connected with the trading posts ot
the Hudson Bay Company. The attempt which was made

MISLETOE METHODIST MISSION.

175

some few years since by a company of men from the United
States, was an entire failure, and only a few individuals of
whom I obtained any knowledge, have found their way back
to the States.

The forest trees arc mostly oak and fir, the latter grow-
ing remarkably tall. The misletoe, attached to the body
and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beautiful
dark green bunches of tliis plant, seen upon the leafless
trees of winter, excite admiration that its verdure should
continue, Avheii the trees, from which it derives its life and
support, are not able to sustain thoir own foliage.

I rode, on Tliursday the 2Gth, twelve miles to Jarvis'
settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich-
ness of soil and other local advantages, I should not know
MJiere to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior
to this. I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately
brought from California, fattening upon the fresh, luxuriant
grass of the prairies.

Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the river,
the Methodist church of the United States have established
a mission among the Calapooah Indians, of whom there are
but few remaininof. Rev. Messrs. Jason Lee and Daniel
Lee are the ordained missionaries, and Mr. Shcpard teacher,

Tlieir principal mode of instruction, for the present, is by
means of schools. They have at this time fourteen Indian
cliildren in their school, supported in their family, and the
prospect of oljtaining others as fast as they can accommo-
date them. Their facilities for providing for their school
are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as much excel-
lent land as they wish, and to raise the necessaries of life
in great al)undance, with little more labor than what the
ecliolars can perform, for their support. The missionaries

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176

EPIDEMIC.

liave an additional opportunity of usefulness, wliicli is t •>
establish a Christian influence among the people of these
infant settlements. Mr. J. Leo preaches to them on the
Sabbath, and they have a very interesting Sabbath sciiool
among the half-breed children. These children generally
have fair complexions, active minds, and make a fine ap-
pearance. The prospect is, that this mission may lay a
foundation far extensive usefulness. Tlierc is as yet one
important desideratum — these missionaries have no \\ ives.
Christian white women are very much needed to exert an
influence over Indian females. The female character must
be elevated, and until this is done but little is accomplished ;
and females can have access to, and influence over females
in many departments of instruction, to much better advan-
tage than men. And the model, which is furnished by an
intelligent and pious family circle, is that kind of practical
instruction, whether at home or abroad, which never fails
to recommend the gospel.

At the time of my continuance in this place, a singular
epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several
persons died. The subjects of the complaint were attacked
.? y^^ ,a.'A* ^ with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, which
.soon spread through the whole head, with great heat in the
part aflected ; at the same time the pulse became very fee-
ble aiid not very frequent — rsoon the extremities became cold,
and a general torpor spread through the wlxile system, ex-
cept the head — soon they were ftcnsoless, and in a short pe-
riod died. In some cases tho attack was less severe, and
the patient lingered, and after some days convalesced, or
continued to sink until death closed his earthly existence.

Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode with Mr. .1. Lee several
miles south to sec more of tho country. The same ricl),

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}jlack soil continued, rurnishini; nutrilivo jirrass in abund-
ance ; and also the same diversity of" wood and prairie.
This valley is generally about fifty miles wide cas , and
M'est, anil far more extended north and south.

Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an liulian
boy, wild belonged to the school, and who died last night
with tl)o epidemic. Most of the children of the school and
the Sabbath scliool attended, and conducted witli propriety.

On Saturday 1 returned to McKey's settlement, to fulfil
an appointment to preach to the iidiabitants on the Sabbath.
1 stopped with Mr. Edwards, who is temporarily attached
to the mission, but now teaching school in this settlement.

Almost the wliole of the inhabitants of this settlement
assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent con-
gregation, but not more tlian half of them could understand
English.

After service I was called to visit a Mr. Carthre, who
was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which
gave him innnediate relief, and api)lied a blister, raid, as I
afterward learned, he recovered.

Early on Monday morning, the 30th, iMcKey furnished
me with \\vo young Tndians to tdke me in a can)L to the
falls, where we arrived saftdy a; ti roe o'clock in the after-
noon. Here I engaged two Ji';UuiuS belonging to a small
Aillagc of the Clough-e-wali-i'p'i tribe, who liave a ])erma-
iiont residence a little bel'' • the falls, 1u :• irry me in a ca-
noe to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, tiie chief, came up to
the falls, where I was about to encamp alone lur flie nighi.
and inv'ted me to share the hospitalit}' of iiis iiouse. I hes-
itated, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but feared
such annoyances as might prcneiit my rcvSt. On the other
hand, there was every appearance of a coid, heavv storm,

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178

CONSTRUCTION OF IIIS HOUSE.

and very little wood near, which I could procure for a fire
only with my hatchet, and I should bo alone, exposed to
ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration, however, I
scarcely regarded. But believing it would gratify the
chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with him to his
dwelling, which was a long pernianciit building on the west
1 side of the river, upon an elevation of one hundred feot,

|\C-'^ "^ and near which were several other buildings of nearly the

same dimensions. Besides the family of the chief, there
were two other families in the same building, in sections of
about twenty feet, separated from each other by mats hung
up for partitions. Their houses arc built of logs split into
thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of their
buildings ]>elow the surface of the earth, as some of the In-
dians do about and below the Cascades. The walls of the
chief's house were about seven feet high, with the roofs
inore steeply elevated than what is common in the United
States, made of the same materials with the vvalls, except
that the planks were of less thickness. They have only
one door to the house, and this is in the centre of the front
side. They have no chimneys to carry off the smoke, but
a hole is left open above the fire-place, which is in the cen-
tre of each family's apartment. 'J'his answers very well
ill calm weather, but when there is much wird, the whole
l)uilding becomes a smoke house. The fire-place of the
chief's ajmrtment was sunk a foot below tlie surface of the
earth, eig''^ feet square, secured by a frame around, and
mats were spread upon the floor f )r the family to sit upon.
Their dormitories are on the sides of the apartment, raised
four feet above the floor, with moveable ladders lor ascent :
and under them they stow away their dried fish, roots, ber-
ries, and other clFects. There was not an excess of neat-

A biorninct voyage.

179

ness within, and still less without. Tlic Indians in tho
lower country who follow fishing and fowling for a liveli-
hood are far from being as neat as those in the upper coun-
try, who depend more upon the chase. The latter live in
moveable lodges and frequently change their habitations.
But these Indians were also kind. They gave me most of
one side of the fire-place, spread down clean new mats, re-
plenished their fire, and were ready to perform any service
I should wish. They tilled my tea-kettle, after which 1
spread out the stores so lountifully provided by Doct. Mc-
Laughlin, and performed my own cooking. During th(^
evening, the chief manifested a disposition to be .sociable,
but we had very little language common to us both, besides
the language of signs. The next thing, when the hour of
rest arrived, was to fortify myself against a numerous and
insidious enemy. I first spread down tho ch^th of my tent,
llion my blankets, and wrapped myself up as securely ;'S T
could, and should have slept comfortably, had I not too fully
realized my apprehensions.

As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left
the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two
Indians proceeded down tlie Willamette about sixteen miles
before we landed for breakfast. I find a great difrerence
in going with or against the current of these rivers. Since
going up this river, the number of swans and geese had
greatly multiplied upon tho waters and along the shores.
TluMr noise, and especially that of the swans, echoed
through the woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful
and majestic bird ; its large body, long neck, clear white
color, and graceful movements place it among the very first
of the winged tribe. The common seal are numerous in
this river. It is very difficult to shoot them, even with the

ISO

LOVE OP ARDENT SPIRITS.

if- i
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best ri/lcs, on account of their diving witli extreme siuidon-
ness at the flash. I had a fair opportunity to slioot one t(j-
(hiy, but with one sphisii he was out of sight and did not
again upj)eur. AVlion I came to the north-western branch
of the Multnomah, I proceeded down four miles to Fort
"William, on the Wappatoo island, an establishment which
belongs to Captain Wyeth and Company. The location is
])leasant, and tiic land around is of the first quality.

Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place hero
between two men from the United States. The subject of
their dispute was an Indian woman. Thornburgh was de-
termined to take her from Ilub^- ^/rd, even at fhe risk of his
own life. He entered llubburd's cabin in the night, ai'med
with a loaded rifle, but II. saw him and shot him through
the breast, and violently thrust him through tlie door. Poor
T. fell and e\j)ir d. In the alj^ence of any judicial tribu-
nal, a self-created jury of inquest, on examination into the
circumstances of the case, brought in a verdict of "justifia-
ble homicide."

In Thornburgh, was an instance of a most insatiable aj)-
jjctite ibr ardent spirits. JMr. Townsend, the ornithologist,
whom I have Ijclbro mentioned, told me he was encamped
out for several days, some miles from Fort William, at-
tending to the business of his profession ; and that in addi-
tion to collecting birds, he Lad collected rare sj)ccimens
of reptiles, v>-hich he jircserved in a keg of spirits. Sev-
eral days after he Avas in this ('ncann)ment, he went to his
keg t" <?epo.-.n.e another reptile, and found the spirits gone.
Mr. Tuwnscnd, know'n' tnat Thornburirh had been several
times loitering about, charged him with having drank otT
the spirits. Ho confessed it, and pleaded his thirst as an
ajfology.

RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER.

191

On Wednesday, the '2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver,
well pleased with my excursion. The weather was gene-
rally pleasant, free from winds and iicavy storms. The
whole country is adapted by nature to yield to the hand of
cultivation, and ere long, I may say, without claiming to
1)0 propiietic, will be filled, through the whole extent of the
valley of the Willamette, with farms spread out in rich
luxuriance, and inhabitants, whose character will depend
upon the religious advantages or disadvantages which be-
nevolent and philanthropic individuals give or withhold. T
found the people of the fort in their usual active business
pursuits, and received a renewed and cordial welcome^

1 1

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182

SERVICES Ox\ THE SABBATH.

CHAPTER XII.

Services on the Sabbath — obstacles to the gospel — discouraffing case —
inanncr of Rpon(Hnf;f time — description of Vancouver — fur and farin.
ing cstablisinnent — jranion j)roductions — lumber — connnerce — pel.
tries — system of the Hudson Bay Company — waste of life — hard-
ships of a lumter's life — their perseverance — Christian principle —
worldly principle.

SAiiiiATJi, ()th. I have atteiulod three services, morniiiii:,
afternoon, and ovenino;, and expect to continue ihem dnriiiLr
iny residence in this j)lace. Through the week there will
be but lew opportunities to do much for the spiritual benefit
of the common laborers ; for in this high northern latitude,
the days in the winter are so short that the men are called
out to their work before daylight, and continue their labor
until near dark ; and as their families do not understand
Knglish, I have no direct means of benefiting them.

There is another circumstance which operates against
the prospects of benefiting many of the ])opulation here —
the common practice of living in families without being
married. They do not call the women with whom they live,
their wives, but their women. They know they are living
in the constant violation of divine prohibition, and acknow-
ledge it, by asking how they can, with any consistency, at-
tend to their salvation, while they are living in sin. I urged
the duty of entering into the marriage relation. They have
two reasons for not doing so. One is, that if they may
wish tv> return to their fc/rmer liomes and friends, they can-
not take their families with them. The other is, that these

DIFFICULTIES.

183

Indian won'on do not understand tlie oblifrations of tlio mar-
riage covenant, and if tiiey, as iiusl)ands, should wish to
fulfil their duties, yet their wives might, tlirough caprice,
leave them, and they should be bound by obligations, wliich
their wives would disregard.

Tiiere is no doubt, but that this subject is attended witU
real dilHculties, but are they insurmountable? Has God
given a law, which if obeyed would not secure our greatest
and best good ? Can a rational mind balance for a moment
the pleasure of a sinful life against interests which stand
connected inseparably with permanent happiness, and with
a duration, compared to which, the whole of this mortal life
is l)ut a speck, a nothing. My heart is pained when I wit-
ness the things which are seen and temporal prelerred to
those that are unseen and pure, and which arc commensu-
rate with existence itself. I cannot believe, that if these
men should. marry the women with whom they live, and do
all they could to instruct them, and treat them with tender-
ness and respect, that there would be many cases of their
leaving their husbands. And whatever might be the results,
it is always better to suffer wrong, than do wrong. But their
social comforts are so strongly bound with the cords of sin,
that they feel, as they express their own case, that it is use-
less to make any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until
they shall be placed in different circumstances.

As much of my time, through the week, was occu-
pied in study, and in digesting facts connected with the
natural history of the country west of the Rocky Moun-
tains, and the character and condition of the Indians,
which came under my observation at different times and
places ; and also that which I obtained from persons
whose testimony could be relied upon, and which came

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181

THR HUDSON BAY COMl'ANV.

unilcr tlunr personal observutiuii, I shall givo thoni with'
rtut particular datus.

I iiavc already mentioned my agreeable disappointment,
in iinding so many of the comfoi'ts m life, at dillerent trad-
ing posts of the Hudson Bay Company ; I have also given
a brief description of the local situation of Fort V^ancouver.
This was taken from such observations as I could malce in
a hasty view, as 1 was prosecuting my journey to the shores
of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was commenced
in the year 1824. It being necessary that the gentlemen,
who arc engaged in transacting the business of the Compa-
ny west of the mountains, and their laborers, should be
better and less precariously supplied with the necessaries of
life, than what game furnishes; and the expense of trans-
porting suitable supplies from England being too great, it
was thought important to connect the business of farming
with that of fur, to an extent equal to their necessary de-
mands, and as this fort is the central place of business to
Avliich shipping come, and from which they depart for dif-
ferent parts of the north-west coast, and to which, and from
w Inch, brigades of hunting parties come and go ; the prin-
cipal farming business was established here, and has been
j)rogressing until provisions are furnished in great abund-
ance. There are large fertile prairies, which they occupy
for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing materials and
other purposes. In the year 1835, at this post, there were
four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one hundred horses, two
hundred sheep, forty goats, and tliree hundred hogs. They
had raised the same year five thousand bushels of wheat, of
the best quality I ever saw; one thousand three hundred
bushels of potatoes ; one thousand of barley, one thousand
of oats, two thousand of peas, and a large variety of garden

HUDSON BAY COMPANY.

18o

vegetables. This cutimato does not include the horses,
horned cattle, &(;. and profhice raised at other staliont*.
liut little, JKiwever, is done at any of the others, except injr
(Jolvile, tiio upp(!rniost post on the northc rn hi-anch of tiie
Columbia. TJje ijardenof this station, enclosinr^ al)out five
acres, is laid out with rcrjularity and good taste. While a
lari^o part is appropriated to the conuiion esculent vefi,eta-
bles, ornamental plants and flowers are not neiflocted. Fruit
of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and straw-
lierries, lijr tiie time they hi' • been introduced, (lourisji and
prove that the climate and re well adapted to tiie pur-

])oses of horticulture. Vai , ais tropical fruits, such as figh,
oranges, and lemons;, have also been introduced, and grow
with about the same care that they would require in the
latitude of Philadelphia.

In connection with this business and farming establish-
ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox power,
which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of
excellent quality. Six miles uj) the Columbia, at the con-
fluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have
a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation
most of the year. This mill though large, does not furnish
more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in
the United States. There being no j)ine below the Cas-
cades, and but very little within five hundred miles of the
mouth of the Columbia river, the only tindjcr sawed in this
mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the
common business about this station, one, and sometimes two
ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich islands, and
it is there called pine of the north-west coast, and sells for
about fifty dollars the thousand feet. Spars and timber for

shipping are also sent to that market. Boards of fir are not

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

186

HUDSON BAY COMPANY.

SO durable, when exposed to the weather, as those of pine,
nor so easily worked. One half of the grain of each an-
nual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and spungy,
which easily absorbs moisture and causes speedy decay.
There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in
constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily use
in the fort, and a large supply of sea biscuit for the ship-
ping and trading stations along the north-west coast. There
are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners, carpenters, and a
tinner.

Here is a Avell-regulated medical department, and a hospi-
tal for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which
Indians who are laboring under any difficult and dangerous
diseases are received, and in most cases have gratuitous at-
tendance.

Among the large buildings, there are four for the trading
department. One for the Indian trade, in which are depo-
sited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods open-
ed for the current year's business ; and another for storing
goods in a year's advance. Not less than a ship load of
goods is brought from England annually, and always at
least one in advance of their present use, so that if any dis-
aster should befall their ship on her passage, the business of
the Company would not have to be suspended. By this
mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship
loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in the
spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, freighted
with lumber to the island, and bringing back to Vancouver
salt and other commodities, but generally not enough for
ballast ; and in the last of September, or in October, she
sails for England with the peltries obtained during the pre-
ceding year.

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THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY.

187

The fur business about and west of the Rocky Mountains,
is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for so
extensively and constantly have every nook and corner
been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur ani-
mals are becoming scarce. It is rational to conclude that
it will not be many years before this business will not be
worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50° of
north latitude ; north of this, in the colder and more densely
wooded regions, the business will not probably vary in any
important degree.

But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur
business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever succeeded
in making it profitable. Several companies have sustained
great loss, or entire failure, owing generally to their igno-
rance of the country, and the best mode of procedure.
The conductors of these enterprises, mainly, were inexpe-
rienced in Indian trade, and, like Americans generally,
they perhaps expected the golden fruits of their labor and
industry, without the patience requisite to ensure it. Hence
the results have frequently been disappointment. The
Hudson Bay Company have reduced their business to such
a system, that no one can have the charge of any impor-
tant transactions without having passed through the inferior
grades, which constitutes several years' apprenticeship.
Their lowest order are what they call servants, (common
laborers.) All above these are called gentlemen, but of
different orders. The lowest class are clerks, then chief-
clerks ; next traders, and chief-traders ; factors, and chief-
factors ; and the highest, governors. Of the last office
there are only two ; one resides in London, who is at the
head of the whole business of the Company, and the other
resides in Montreal, Lower Canada. There are only two

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188

THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER.

chief-factors west of the Mountains, John McLaughlin, Esq.
and Duncan Flnlayson, Esq. and with them are associated
in business several chief-traders and traders, and chief-
clerks and clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are pro-
portioned to the stations they occupy. This being their
system of business, no important enterprise is ever intrusted
to any inexperienced person.

It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all
those who engage in the fur business about, and west of the
Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to
their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla,
told me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt-
ers near, but west of the mountains, they were under the
necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third
of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more
than two hundred who had been in his employment in the
course of three years, only between thirty and forty were
known to be alive. From this data it may be seen that the
life of hunters in these far western regions averages about
three years. And with these known facts, still hundreds
and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter's life, and
expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death.
The estimate has been made from sources of correct infor-
mation, that there are nine thousand white men in the north
and in the great west, engaged in the various departments
of trading, trapping and hunting, including Americans,
Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It is more than one
hundred and fifty years since white men penetrated far into
the forests, in their canoes freighted with goods, coasting
the shores of the remote lakes, and following up the still
more remote rivers, to traffick with the Indians for their furs,
not regarding hunger, toils, and dangers. These enterpri-

CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE.

189

ses have been extended and pursued with avidity, until
every Indian nation and tribe has been visited by the trade r.
What is the power of that principle which draws these
thousands from their country, and their homes, and all the
ties of kindred ? Is the love of gain and hope of wealth
the motive by which courage and daring are roused, and
dangers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less powerful
principle ? Has it only furnished twenty or thirty mission-
aries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to the many
ten thousand Indians in the widely extended country, over
which are ranging nine thousand traders, trappers and
hunters ? Are these the only evidences the church of God
can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to
Christ, and to the interests of the immortal soul ? If so,
then Christians surely must suffer in comparison with
worldly men, and our heaven-descended religion, if judged
of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed unworthy of its
name and origin. But this want of Christian enterprise,
characterized by the late period in which it is begun, and
carried forward with sucli slow and faltering steps, is not
only to be lamented as a blot upon the Christian name, but
incomparably more is it to be lamented that in consequence,
generation after generation of the heathen, to say nothing
of the thousands who are trafficking among them, are left in
their ignorance of the Savior to perish eternally. How
long shall it be, that when an adventurous man forms a
plan for traffick in far distant wilds, in a short lime a com-
pany is formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars, and
a hundred men are found to face hardships and dangers,
and they are away ? But when a Christian heart is stirred
up to go and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian na-
tion, he may plead and plead for four men and two thou-

17*

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190

CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE.

sand dollars, and perhaps in vain. But it is said, a great
deal is now doing for the heathen world. How much?
As much as to give Jive ministers to the United States. All
that is doing for the conversion of the heathen is not more
than it would cost to build, and man, and defray the expen-
ses of one ship of war.

Inc

INDIAN POPULATION.

191

at
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n-

CHAPTER XIII.

Indian population — diseases — mortality — attributed to cultivation of
the soil — destitute of medical science — holidays — customs at home —
customs of the Indians — resemblance to Jewish customs in punish-
ment — marriage contracts — condition of the females — slavery —
division into tribes — two points of dissimilarity — sacrifices — lan-
guage.

I HAVE found the Indian population in the lower country,
that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than I had
, expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made their
tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven-eighths, if not as
Dr. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, have been swept away
by disease, principally by fever and ague. The malignan-
cy of this disease may have been increased by predisposing
causes, such as intemperance, and the influence of intercourse
r with sailors. But a more direct cause of the great mortal-
; ity, was their mode of treatment. In the burning stage of
the fever they plunged themselves into the river, and con-
tinued in the water until the heat was allayed, and rarely
survived the cold stage which followed. So many and so
sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the shores
were strewed with the unburied dead. Whole and large
villages were depopulated ; and some entire tribes have dis-
appeared, the few remaining persons, if there were any,
uniting themselves with other tribes. This great mortality
extended not only from the vicinity of the Cascades to the
shores of the Pacific, but far north and south j it is said as

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192

HOLIDAYS.

far south as California. The fever and ague was never
known before the year 1829, and Dr. McLaughlin mention-
ed it as a singular circumstance, that this was the year in
which fields were ploughed for the first time. He thought
there must have been some connexion between breaking up
the soil and the fever, f I informed him that the same fever
prevailed in the United States, about the same time, and in
places which had not before been subject to the complaint.
The mortality, after one or two seasons, abated, partly from
the want of subjects, and partly from medical assistance ob-
tained from the hospital at Fort Vancouver, The mortality
of Indians and their sufferings under diseases are far greater
than they would be, if they were furnished with a know-
ledge of medicine. Indian doctors are only Indian conju-
rers. But I shall have occasion to say more upon this sub-
ject when I describe Indian customs.

December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these
far distant regions. From Christmas until after the New
Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of indulgence
and festivity commences. Only this once in the whole year
are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when they have a free
allowance, furnishing them the opportunity to exhibit fully
what they would do, if spirits were easily and always acces-
sible. On Christmas morning they dress themselves in their
best attire, accelerated movements are seen in every direction,
and preparation is made for dinners, which are sure to be fur-
nished in their first style, and greatest profusion; and the
day passes in mirth and hilarity. But it does not end with
the day ; for the passions and appetites pampered through
the day, prepare the way for the night to be sp^nt in dan-
cing, and loud and boisterous laughter, shouts, and revelry,
consume the hours designed for rest. They continue these

CUSTOMS AT HOME.

193

high-strung convivialities until they pass the portals of the
new year, when labor and toil resume their place.

Such are often the customs of those who profess to be
wiser and better. The expiring year vanishes, amidst the
noise and revels of many, wiio pretend by such methods
to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of that
only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect
order. And too many give as they profess, but a decent
honor and respect to those festival days, when from house
to house of their best or indifferent friends, the wine is cir-
culated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is it
so, that these days are baptized with the name of liohj days ?
The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly led them to
observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior's birth, but
whenever such uncommanded observances are greatly abu-
sed, the same piety will exert itself to bring about a reform-
ation ; and if this cannot be done, then to abolish the cus-
tom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, in the case of the
brazen serpent, which was preserved as a memorial of the
salvation wrought instrumentally by it for those who were
bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed it when the people
idolized and burned incense to it.

The question whether there is any evidence that the In-
dians are descended from the ten lost tribes of Israel, though
frequently and largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily
answered. From all the personal observations I could
make, and efforts at examination, I could not obtain any
thing conclusive upon the subject, but am induced to believe
that their origin will remain as problematical in future, as
it has been in time past. Thei-e arc some things in their
belief and customs which favor the idea that they are of Isra-
elitish descent. Their entire freedom from idolatry is a pe-

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194

HESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

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culiar characteristic, by which they are distinguished from
all other heathen. It will be remembered that this propen-
sity of the Jews to idolatry was entirely subdued from the
time of their captivity in Babylon. It was predicted by the
prophet Hosea of the children of Israel, that "they should
abide many days without a king, and without a prince and
without a sacrifice." Among the Indians beyond the moun-
tains, I found no idols, nor any appearance of idolatry.
They believe in only one God, and all their worship, so far
as they have any, is oflered to Him, or as they would say,
to the Great Spirit. They believe in the immortality of the
soul, and future rewards and punishments. They have no
sacrifices, no kings, and no prince. Their government is
invested entirely in their chiefs, no one of whom has any
special control over the others, or over the people, but they
always act in united councils. Their minds are perfectly
open to receive any truth in regard to the character and
worship of God. They have many traditions and super-
stitions ; and some persons can hardly see the distinction be-
tween a reverence for these, and idol worship — for instance,
though they may believe that the Great Wolf and the Grey
Bear scrambled together the mountains in a fight, yet they
do not worship either.

f Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does
not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet coin-
cides with what was the custom of the Jews. The nearest
relatives of the murdered person are the " avengers of
blood," the executioners, or " pursuers of blood." They kill
'the murderer if they can find him ; and in their own tribe
or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any other
person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for the

I children, neither are the children put to death for the fathers ;

' di(
th(

RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

195

' every man is put to death for his own sin." As the Jews
- (lid not regard other nations witii the same benevolence as
their own, so the Indians make a distinction between their
own tribe or nation, and others. If one is itilled by a pcr-
''son belonging to another nation, if they cannot obtain and
; put the murderer to death, they will take the life of some of
' the relatives of the murderer; or, if they fail of this, some
J one of the nation must atone for the crime. And if tliis
cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood will still be de-
manded, though years may pass away before it is canceled.
There is also some resemblance in their marriage con-
tracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed,
with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of
Isaac's marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant
to go to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He
went, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the
appointed person, he first consulted her father and brother,
and when their approbation was obtained, Rebekah's ap-
proval closed the contract, and presents were made to the
several members of the family. The customs of the In-
dians are substantially the same. .The bridegroom negoti-
ates with the parents, and the approbation of the daughter
being obtained, the stipulated commodities are paid and the
man takes his wife. But as much or more is given in
dowry to the daughter. The presents and dowry are pro-
portioned to the rank and wealth of the contracting parties.
Wanaxka, the first chief of the Clough-e-wall-hah Indians,
has refused more than one hundred dollars for a beautiful
daughter, whom I saw when I shared the hospitality of his
house. A chief at the La Dalles has refused two horses
and six blankets, together with several other articles of
smaller value. It is not, however, to be understood, that

VM\

HESEMULANCR TO JKWrSII Ct.'STOMS.

nmrrijiufo is a nioro niorcoiiary tninsaetion ; for fancy tvn»i
clu)ico Imvo tlioir itillucnuo with thorn, as well as among
inoro relincd people.

Anothei- resemhliinef^ hctvveen the Indians and the Jews
may bo traced in the estimation in which the females are
held. No doid)f the de<j;ra(h)tion of Indian women is to he
ttttril)uted in a large degree to heathenism, and that unciv-
ilized and savage state in which wo find them ; yet in their
respective occupations we find some features Avhich are not
dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do not pos-
sess slaves, the women cut and prepare wood for fire, as
well as food for their families, they pack and unpack the
horses, sot up and take down lodges, gather roots and ber-
ries for food, dress the skins for clothing, and make them
into garments. So the Jewish women drew water for fiocks
and camels, and watched over them ; they gleaned the fields
in harvest ; they also performed the work of grinding in the
mill. Our Savior refers to this, when he foretold the de-
struction of Jerusalem. " Two women shall be grinding
ut the mill, one shall be taken and the other left."

Slavery was suflered among the Jews, and undoubtedly
for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting
away their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While
the great law-giver did not at once abolish the practice, lie
brought it under modified restrictions. The .stealing and
scllinjT a man was punishable with death. If a man bouuht
a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not to exceed
six years. Intermarriages took place between these ser-
vants and the families of their masters ; and the betrothed
maid was to be treated like a daughter. The same restric-
tions were not, however, enjoined in relation to those bond-
men who were bought of the heathen, until the days of the

RESRMnLANCr, TO JRWISH CrSTOMS.

197

prophets, wlion they wcro commanded to l)i'euk overy yoke
and let tho ojipressed ^o fVee,^ So also slavery exists in a
modified form amon^ the Indians west of the mountains, not

i j'enerallv, but only amdn" the nations in the lower country.

' They are hou<,'ht ; taken prisoners in war ; taken in pay-

' ments of debts, if they are orphans of the debtor ; and soli
thcmgelvos in pledges. They are put to tho same service
which women perform among those Indians who have no
slaves. They are generally treated with kindness ; live in
the same dwelling with their masters, and often intermarry
with those who are free.' They are exempt from one cruel

' l)ractice which their masters inflict upon their own children,
the flattening of their heads. Tho reason, which those who
j)09sess slaves assign for flattening their own heads, is, that
they may be distinguished from their slaves who have round
heads.

Polygamy is practiced among the Indians, and with
nearly the same regulations with which it was prac-
ticed among the .lews. Though they do not write bills
of divorcement and put away their wives, yet they
send them away on slight occasions. But this brings
no disgrace upon the woman's character, and gene-
rally she is soon married to another, and often as ad-
vantageously.

Another resemblance between the Jews and the Indians
is the division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of
the children of Israel were the descendants of distinguished
families, and their government was patriarchal. The tribes
among the Indians are constituted much in the same way.
Some important personage gains an influence, numbers be-
come attached to him ; and though they do not separate

from their nation, nor at once become a distinct tribe, yet

198

RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.

they are denominated a band, and tl)ese bands in many
oases grow up into tribes.

How mucli allusion there may be to the ancient Jewi«;h
custom of wearing " fringes to the borders of their gar-
ments," I am not able to determine by eliciting any facts
from Indian tradition, but the practice is universal among
the tribes west of the mountains, as far as my observation
extended — and so fond are they of this ornament to their
dress, that every seam in their garments is furnished with it.

There is one consideration which should not be passed
over, and which may appear to be against the evidences
that the Indians are of Israelitish origin.

Every different nation has an entirely distinct language.
These languages are inore distinct than the different lan-
guages of Europe ; for in all the different languages of Eu-
I'ope there are words derived from Latin, common to each,
which prove a common relation. Now, if the Indians are
descended from the Jews, and of course once had a common
language, the Hebrew, notwithstanding their departure by
different dialects from their original, might it not be expected
that there would still remain words and idioms indicative of
their common origin. But it is not so, as may be seen in a
vocabulary of a few languages which I shall subjoin. They
have some words in common with Latin, Greek and He-
brew, but these are used in an entirely different sense from
that in which they are used in those languages. As far as
it respects language, the proof of a Jewish, or even of a
common origin, is not only doubtful but highly improbable.

ANIMALS.

CHAPTER XIV.

The various animals beyond tlie Mountains.

It is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indiau
countries and especially in the far regions beyond the moun-
tains, arc very numerous; but, excepting buffalo within
their i-anrje, which is becominij more and more circum-
scribed, jrame is scarce. In giving an account of animals
beyond the mountains, I shall not go into a minute descrip-
tion of those which are familiar to all classes of persons.

Among the animals of the genus ccrvns, the elk is the
largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable num-
bers cast of the Rocky Mountains, but is less numerous on
tlio west side. It combines beauty with magnitude and
strength, and its large towering horns give it an imposing
appearance. Its senses are so keen in apprehension, that it
is didloult to bo approached; and its speed in flight is so
great that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef,
though less highly flavored, and is much sought for by the
Indians and Jiunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used
in arlicles of clothing and for moccasons.

I did not SCO the moose; they are said to be found farther
north, in tlic colder and woody regions.

There are three species of deer; the red, the black-tailed,
and the common AMoricandcor. Like those found in otlier
countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid aspect; ele-
•Tant in Conn, with slender, nervous limbs. When anv ob-
jeot or noise alarms them, they t'irow up their heads, erect

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'200

ANIMALS.

and move tlieir ears in every direction to catch the sounds ;
snuff up the wind, and bound off with great celerity. The
doer west of the mountains are more lean and the flesh is
less inviting than those found in the United States. This
may arise from the nature of the food to which they are
confined, having less opportunity for browsing, especially
upon such shrubbery as is congenial to their natures, there
being but very few of the sacchariferous kinds found in
their country.

The red deer are generally found about the Rocky Moun-
tains and upon the head waters of the Columbia.

The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow
color, like the common American deer, arc somewhat darker,
and their tails are larger and nearly black, which gives them
their name. Their eyes are large and prominent, their ears
are also large and long, and judging from those I saw, they
are smaller than the common deer. When they move faster
than a walk, they bound.

The antelope, which I have already described, page 61st,
are numerous in the upper and prairie country.

It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted for
its valuable fur, for its activity, and perseverance, — its so-
cial habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its village,
and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, is an in-
habitant of this country. It has been sought witii avidity,
and has been a source of wealth to many, but to multitudes,
of poverty, misery and death. It \\ould be difficult to sum
up the woes of the last class of adventurers. Its liesh is
very good for food, and tlie tru))per and hunter depend al-
most entirely upon it for subsistence, while in its pursuit.
Although I ate several times the (lesh of tlie bea'^r, yet I
discovered no evidence of the truth of the assertion often

ANIMALS.

201

made, that while the flesh of the fore parts is of the quality
of land animals, its hind parts are in smell and taste like
fish. I should think it would require much assistance from
imagination to discover tiie fish taste.

Here also the land otter is found, and is somewhat numer-
ous, and next to the beaver is sought with avidity by the
huutor and trader. The shades of its color vary from a light,
to a deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in great de-
mand, and there is none found in any country of better qual-
ity than the skins I saw at different trading posts of the Hud-
son Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to land and
water, having short and muscular legs, so articulated that it
can lu'ing them horizontal with its body, and use them as
fins in the water; and its toes are webbed like water fowl.
It subsists principally upon fish-, frogs and other aquatic
animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems to be its
pastime, for we know of no motive it can have, unless
it bo the love of amusement, which is to ascend a high
ridge of snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide
down head foremost upon its breast. When there is no
snow, it will in the same manner slide down steep,
smooth, grassy banks.

The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich fur,
is found only along the American coast and adjacent islands,
from Kamschatka to upper California. They vary in size,
are generally about four feet long when full gro\vn, and
nine inches in diameter. Its legs are ory short, and its
feet are webbed. Its fur is of the fii*st quality, long and
glossy, extremel}'^ fine, intermixed with some hairs ; the out-
side is black, sometimes, however, dusky, and the inside a
cincrous brown. They are amphibious, sportive, and often

bask upon the shore for repose, and when asleep the Indians

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202

AiNIMALS.

approacli and slay them. They have been so mueh hunte((
for their valuable fur, that they are diminishing in numbers.

The hair seal is very frequently seen in the waters of
Columbia river. Its head is large and round, its eye full
and mild. I often saw it swimming after our canoe, present-
ing to view its head, neck, and shoulders, appearing, in some
degree, like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various colors,
generally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from its most
natural element, water ; but is sometimes seen basking upon
rocks on the shore, and this is the most favorable opportu-
nity for killing it; for its motions are so quick in the water,
that it will submerge at the flash of the rifle, and if killed
in the water it sinks, and is difficult to be obtained.

In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky Moun-
tains, I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the
Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep. I am unwilling to
state, as facts, the descriptions of others, especially as there
are so many wrong statements made in natural history. I
did not see any of these animals, which probably I should
have done, if they were as numerous as travelers have said
they are. I saw their horns, which are enormously large,
if, as it is said, their bodies are not much larger than a com-
mon deer. A horn which I measured, was five inches in
diameter at its juncture with the head, and eighteen long.
Its flesh, of which I had an opportunity to eat, was far pref-
erable to the best mutton. They inhabit the mountains,
and are said to select the most rough and precipitous parts
where grass is found. They are not covered with wool,
but with hair so bordering upon wool as to render its coat
warm in the winter.

The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my
observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of then^

ANIMALS.

•20»

for description, but succeeded in obtaining only small parts
of" their skins.

The racoon is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun-
try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not dis-
cover any difference in their appearance and habits from
those in the United States.

The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the
plains west of the great chain of mountains. Having giv-
en a short description of this animal, page 62, when passing
through the parts where it was seen, it is not necessary in
this place to make any further remarks.

The weasel, the polecat, the marmot, the mink and musk-
rat, are common, though not numerous, in this country, and
not differing from those on the eastern part of this conti-
nent, they do not need description.

The wolverine is said to inhabit these western regions,
and I saw one in the Salmon river mountains, which my In-
dians killed. The animal difFcred in several particulars from
the description given by Richardson. It was one foot nine
inches from its nose to its tail ; its body was not large in
proportion to the length, short legs, small eyes and ears ; the
neck short, and as large as tlie head, and its mouth shaped
like that of the dog. Its color was uniformly a dark brown,
nearly black ; and its fur was more than an inch long and
coarse. I had no opportunity of observing its habits.

The hedgehog is conunon in all parts of the Oregon Terri-
tory, does not dilicr from those found in other parts of Amer-
ica, and for its quills, is lield in high estimation by the Indi-
ans. It is interesting to see with how much ingenuity, and
in how many various forms, the Indians manufacture these
(juills into ornamental work, such as moccasons, belts, and
various other articles.

.■ ' ;iil

S04

ANISULS.

There are three kinds of squirrels — two of wliich I luive
already described. Tliu third is the gray, which ditl'er!^
from those in tlie United States in being larger and its color
more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins made
into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cascades,

Of the feline, or cat kind, there are the panther, the long
tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, and the lynx. The
panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and
country produces no change in its ferociousness and other
habits, from those found in other parts of America. The
long tailed tiger cat is more common, very large, and of a
dull reddish color. Also the common wild cat is often
seen. It is much smaller, its tail is short and its color is like
the above named. I can only name the lynx, as they did
not come under my observation. It is in the lower, wooded
country they are found, and the Indians say they are nu-
merous.

There are five different species of wolves ; the common
gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie wolf.
The common gray wolf is the same as those found in the
United States, and has all their common habits. The black
wolf, I did not see, but as described by Mr. Ermitingcr, a
gentleman belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, is larger
than the gray and more noble in its appearance, and is the
strongest of the wolf kind. Those which the same gentle-
man called the blue wolf, are rarely seen, as also the white,
and so far as their habits are known, they do not materi-
ally differ from others. The small prairie wolf is the most
common, and bears the greatest resemblance to the dog,
and has been called the wild dojj. It differs from the dojr
in all the peculiarities of the wolf kind as much as the
others do. It is as uniform in its color, size, and habits.

ANIMALS.

205

They are of a dull reddish gray, never particolored ; the
hair is always long, blended with brown fur at its roots,
and like other wolves they are always prowling and cow-
ardly. They are more numerous tiian the other kinds, and
in considerable numbei's follow the caiavans to feed upon
the ollals. Although wo frequently heard them howl and
bark around our encampments, yet they never disturbed
our rest.

Much has been said about the immense number of wolven
beyond the Rocky Mountains, but I did not find them so
numerous as I expected. I do not make this assertion
solely from the fact that I saw or heard only a few, but
from the testimony of those whose long residence in this
country entitles them to credit. It is the traveler who
never saw the country he describes, or the lover of the
marvelous, or he who does not expect soon to be followed
in his route through drcarv and uninhabited wilds, who
sees, and minutely relates, adventures with the reptiles and
monsters of the desert.

The fox, which is generally dispersed through the world,
is Ibund here in three dilfercnt kinds ; the red, gray, and
silver. They do not diller from those found east of the
mountains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly
esteemed, and takes the highest rank among the furs of
commerce. Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the
ends of the hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the
uncommon fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful glossy
appearance. ,

Martins are not abundant ; some arc found about the
head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but they
are more numerous and of superior quality farther north.

The inoilcusive, timorous hare, in three dillerent species,

Itt

Mil

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206

ANIMALS.

abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct
for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its large
active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in this, as
in other regions. The three species are, the large common
hare, which is generally known, the small chief hare with
large round ears, and a very small species, only five or six
inches long, with poini'^d ears. If the first named differs
in any particular from those in the United States, it is in
its manner of runninn;, and ith '^n^ed. Its bound is not rcij-
ular, but its motions are an alternate running and leaping
at an almost incredible distance, and with such swiftness
that I frequently mistook it, at fii'st view, for the prairio
hen, which I supposed was Hying near the surface of the
ground. Its flesh, when used for food, is tender and of a
pleasant flavor.

The only dress which many of the Indians have to pro-
tect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these ani-
mals, patched together into a scanty robe.

There is a small species of the marmot, of wiiich I have
seen no description in any work on natural history, which
is probably peculiar to tiiis country. It is called by tlie
Nez Forces, thict ; is five inches long from the tip of its
nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length — its l)ody
is one inch and a third in diameter, the color is brown,
beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon its back.
It has eight long hairs projecting from tiic nose, on each
side, and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those be-
longing to its genus. It is remarkably nimble in its move-
ments. The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury.

There arc four varieties of bears, though it is supposed
there are only two distinct species. These are the white,
grizzly, brown, and black. The white bear is ferocious and

iNIMALS.

207

powerful, but their numbers are so small in the region of
the Oregon country, that they are not an object of dread.
But the grizzly bear is far more numerous, more formidable,
and larger, some of them weighing six or eight hundred
pounds. Their teeth are formed for strength, and their
claws are equally terrific, measuring four or five inches ;
and their feet, which are astonishingly large, exclusive of
the claws, measuring not far from ten inches long, and five
inches wide. There are some even larger. The shades of
their color vary from very light gray to a dark brown,
always retaining the grizzly characteristic. Among a muU
titude of their skins which I saw, there were some beauti-
fully dappled, and as large as buffalo robes. These were
held in high estimation. Their hair and fur is longer, finer,
and more abundant than of any other species. They de-
pend more upon their strength than speed for taking their
prey, and therefore generally lurk in willows or other thick-
ets, and suddenly seize upon any animal which may be
passing near. Tiie mountain men tell as many wonderful
stories about their encounters with these prodigies of strength
and ferocity, as some mountain travelers tell us about con-
stant battles with the Blackfeet Indians, and starvation, and
eating dogs. Now I may be considered deficient in a.Jlcx.
ihlc and fruitful imagination, if I do not entertain my read-
ers with one bear story, after having traveled thousands of
miles over prairies, and mountains, through valleys, ravines,
and amongst caves, chasms and deserts. But as I did not
myself have any wonderful encounters, I must borrow from
a gentleman of established good character, belonging to the
Hudson Bay Company, who gave me an account of a case
which he witnessed. He and a number of others were
traveling in canoes up the Athabasca river, and one morn-

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208

ANLMALS.

ing one of their liuntcrs shot upon the shore a large cuh of
ji grizzly bear, which they took on board a canoe, and of
which they made their supper on encamping for the night.
While seated around their fire in conversation, the supposed
mother of the slain cub approached, sprang across the cir-
cle and over the fire, seized the hunter who had shot the
cub, threw him across her shoulder, and made otF with him.
They all laid hold of their rifles and pursued, but feared to
fire lest they should injure their companion. But he re-
quested them to fire, which one of them did and Avounded
the bear. She then dropped the first offender, and laid hold
of the last in like manner as the first, but more roughly,
and accelerated her departure. There was no time to be
lost, and several -fired at the same time, and brought her to
the ground. The last man was badly wounded but recov-
ed. The ^^ great medicine,'' or mystery in this case, I shall
not attempt to explain, but let every one account for it in
his own way.

The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary, and not
highly esteemed either for food or for its skin. The black
bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, but lives
more upon vegetable food, and is more in estimation for its
pure black, well-coated skin.

I close with the buffalo, which is of the loiiinc genus, and
is the largest and the most important for food and covering of
any of the animals in our country. I need not in this place
go into so long description, as otherwise would be important,
having already spoken of them as I was passing through
their range of country. After having seen thousands and
ten thousands of them, and having had months of time to
examine their forms and habits, I do not think they should
be classed with the buffalo or bison of the eastern continent.

ANIMALS.

2on

Not with tho builalo, if historians liave given a correct de-
scription of those on tliat continent. The /lesh of those is
said to bo "black, hard, and very unpalatable; their hides
impenetrable, making soft and smooth leather — their race
is so fierce and formidable, that there is no method of
escaping their pursuit but by climbing up into some immense
tree; for a moderate tree would be broken down by them,
and many travelers have instantly been gored to death by
them and trampled to pieces under their feet." It is said
"their voice is a hideous loud bellow." But none of these
things are true of the buffalo of our country.

If a true account has been given of the bison of the east-
ern continent, our bulFalo differ from them in several mate-
rial traits of character and habits. Those of the eastern
continent, are said to have " small heads, with horns so wide
spread, that three men can sit between them, — that their
eyes are small, red and fiery ,-^that they have a hump upon
their backs like a camel, and which is preferred to be eat-
en for its delicacy — that they are fierce and vindictive, so
that men have to fly to trees for safety, — that the bulls and
cows live in separate bands." These things do not corres-
pond with the buffalo or bison of our western prairies.

The buffalo or bison of our country are generally about
as largo as our domestic neat cattle, and the long, shaggy,
woolly hair which covers their head, neck, and shoulders,
gives them a formidable appearance, at a distance some-
thing like the lion. In many particulars they resemble
our horned cattle ; are cloven footed, chew the cud, and
select the same kind of food. Their flesh is in appearance
and taste much like beef, but of sujjerior flavor, and remark-
ably easy of digestion. Their heads are formed like the oX)

perhaps a little more round and broad, and when running)

^'W^

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210

ANIMALS.

tlioy carry them rather h)\v. Their horns, ears and eyes,
as secii'throu'fh their shu«fgy huir, appear small, and cleared
from iheir covering, they arc not lari^e. Tiieir lejfs and
feet are small and trim, the fur<; legs covered with the lon<T
hair of the shoulders as low down as tiie knee. Thouirh
tlieir figure is clumsy in apj)earance, yet they run swiftly
and for a long time witiiout much slackening their speed ;
and up steep hills or mountains they more than equal the
best horses. They unite in herds, and wiien feeding, scat-
ter over a large space, but when llecing from danger, they
collect into dense columns, and having once laid their course,
tliey arc not easily diverted from it, whatever may oppose.
Their power of scent is great, and they perceive the hunter
when lie is on the windward side, at a great distance, and
the alarm is taken, and when any of them manifest fear,
they are thrown into confusion, until some of the cows, from
the instinct of fear, take the lead to flee from the pursuer,
and then all follow at the top of their speed. So far are
they from being a fierce and revengeful animal, they are
very shy and timid ; and in no case did I see them offer to
make an attack, but in self defense when wounded and
closely pursued, and then they always sought the first op-
portunity to escape. When they run they lean alternately
from one side to the other. The herds are composed pro-
miscuously of bulls and cows, except some of the old bulls,
which are often found by themselves in the rear or in ad-
vance of the main bands. Sometimes an old blind one is
seen alone from all others ; and it was amusing to see their
consternation when they apprehend the approach of danger.
The natural instincts of fear and prudence lead them to fly
alternately in every possible direction for safety. I was
pleased to find our most thoughtless young men respect

AiNIMAr.S.

yil

Ihcir nrro and pity their calamity ; for in no in<!tanco <liil F
sec any uhusn oIHtimI tlicin. Tlipy ai"f> fond nC lullinj; upon
tho ground lii<f' horses, which is not j)ni('tiood by our do.
nipstic catth*. This is so nnich their (h'version, that lurye
places arc foinid without irrass and coiisidern!''' excavated.
The use of their skins for rohes, and tiu^ wor)llv Cur. with
M'hieli they an^ covered, are so universally known, that a
dcscripiion is entirely inniccessary. Another peculiarity
which helonjrs to them is, that they never raise their voice
above a low bellow ; in no instance were wc disturbed by
their lowinir, even when surrounded bv thousands, and in
one of our encampments, it was sup|)osed there were five
thousand near. It has been said they do not visit any of
tho districts formed of primitive rocks. This is said with-
out reason, for I saw them as frc([ucntly in those districts,
in proportion to their extent, as where other formations ex-
isted. It is also said as they recede from tho oast they are
o.xtendiniT west. This is also incorrect ; for, as I have be-
fore said, their limits are beeomincj more and more circum-
scribed. And if they should continue to diminish for twenty
years to como, as they have during the last twenty, they
will become almost e.xtinct.

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212-

FISH.

CHAPTER XV.

Fish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — ornithology — dcndro.
logy — shrubbery — nutritive roots — geography — mountains — valleyi
— plains — forestsr^rivcrs — soil — seasons.

I PASS to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of
the Columbia. Their number is "reat, but their variety U
small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock cod, and trout
are all that I shall mention. The sturgeon of good quality
and in large numbers, commence ascending the rivers in the
fore part of April, and furnish food to the suffering Indians.
I say suffering, for before the opening of the spring, their
stock of provisions are consumed, and they are seen search-
i'lg for roots and any thing which will sustain life; and
though I do not feel authorized to say what others have said,
that in the latter part of the winter and fore part of spring,
they die with starvation in great numbers, yet they are
brought to extreme want, and look forward to the time when
the sturgeon shall come into the river with great solicitude.
A small fish, like the anchovy, about six inches long, very*
fat and well flavored, come into the river in great numbers
about the same time or a little before the sturgeon. The
Indians obtain large quantities of oil from them, by putting
tliem into a netting strainer and exjwsing them to gentle
heat.

The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters
about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year.
They are very fine and easily caught..

FISH.

218

The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish
found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well
ascertained that there arc not less than six different species
of the true salmon that ascend these waters, commencinff
about the twentieth of April. Their muscular power is ex-
ceedingly great, which is manifested in passing the falls and
rapids, which would seem insuperable. They are never
known to return, but arc constantly pressing their way up-
wards, so that it is not uncommon to find them in the small
branches of the rivers near the very sources. We found
them in September near the Rocky Mountains, where they
are said to be as late as November and December. I saw
some with parts of their heads worn to the bono and the skin
worn from various parts of their bodies, which appears to
be the result of efforts to ascend until they perish. Late in
the season, great numbers are found dead, furnishing food
for crows, and even Indians; for I have seen them drive
away the crows and appropriate the remnants to themselves.
When the salmon become much emaciated, the flesh loses
its rich reilness, and it is seen in the skin, which gives the
fish a beautiful appearance; but when in this state it is
hardly edible. It is worthy of notice, that the salmon has
its preferences of water, selecting some branches of the Co-
lumbia river and passing by others ; and those taken in some
of the tributary streams are far lictter than those taken in
others. While those which ascend the rivers never return,
the young are seen in September descending on their way
to the ocean, in inunense numbers. It is believed these re-
turn the fourth year after their descent ; but this may bo
only conjecture. It is difficult to estimate how many sal-
mon might be taken in these rivers, if proper measures were

pursued; and also what would be the results upon the num^

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214

FISHERY.

bers which would continue to enter and ascend.. I think
\v ithout doubt a plan might be devised and adopted to carry
on a salmon fishery in this river to good advantage and profit.
The experiment Avas made by a company from the United
States, which failed, for it contained the elements of its own
overthrow. The company sent out large quantities of rum,
probably calculating on the fact that the Indians are fond of
ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this appetite, they
should enlist them in their favor, and as Indians will do any-
thing for rum, they would catch and sell the fish to them.
Whatever the object of the company might have been in
sending and dealing out so much rum, the Indians were high-
ly pleased with receiving it in pay for their salmon. But
when they had thus obtained it they would become intoxi-
cated and disqualified for labor, and more time was wasted
in drunkenness, than employed in fishing. Besides, the sal-
mon were often suffered to lie in the hot sun until they
were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. The result was,
that the company, as I was informed, obtained only about
four hundred barrels of salmon, and made a losing voyage ;
and the superintendent of Fort Vancouver told me, that when
the company abandoned their business, they stored many
barrels of rum at his fort. My information was not wholly
derived from those who had been in the employment of that
company, and gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, but
in part from the Indians, wlio often spoke to me upon the
subject by way of praise. They would say, ^' close, Mas
him," signifying, good, plenty of rum.

The birds of Oregon are not as numerous as those which
inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not
access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the
woods and sroves are more widely

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ORNITHOLOGY.

215

are sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist profita-
bly, for a great length of time in collecting and preserving
specimens. This region is particularly interesting from
the fact, that in this as in other departments of natural
science, it has hitherto been an unexplored field — no com-
petent scientific person having visited this country to clas-
sify the different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Townsend,
of Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two years in ex-
amining scientifically this field, and will probably give to
the public the result of his labors. I am indebted to him
for assistance in the following summary.

The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, and
are seen only a part of the year ; there are many, however,
that reside here during the whole year. Among these are
the majestic white-headed eagle, and the golden eagle, and
three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the mag-
pie, and thousands of ravens and crows ; several species of
small sparrows, and two or three species of grouse, the
common partridge of the United States, and the dusky
grouse of the Rocky Mountains ; and also an interesting
species of the dipper or water ousel. The habits of this
biixl are very curious and peculiar, particularly that of de-
sccnduig to the bottom of ponds and swiftly running streams^
and there in search of small shell-fish, remaining under
water, for at least two minutes, during which time it will
course about upon the pebbly bottom, with as much appa-
rent ease and satisfaction, as if upon dry laud. The rcd-
winncd black-bird and the robin continue tlu'ouji-h the year.
The notes of the latter are heard even in the chill of the
v/iutcr, though in feeble strains.

As the autunm advances, the number of swans, geese,
and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these wa-

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21G

ORNITHOLOGY.

ter fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the Co-
lumbia river, and there are other species of the same genus,
seen about the shores of the Cape, which do not ascend the
rivers. Among these is the violet green cormorant, the
most splendid of all the known species of cormorants. Tiie
loon, or great northern diver, is very plentiful in this river.
Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in great numbers, visit this
river to seek shelter from the violent storms which agitate
the ocean during the winter.

The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers,
brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain for
different periods of time ; many of them continue only a
few weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidification.
There are, however, great numbers that remain through
the summer, and their delightful songs add to the charms
of a fine morning of April and May. Among these are
hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice and nuthatches. Of
the warblers there are eleven species, six of which are
new ; the other five are common to the States. Several of
the species arc but transient visitors, but most of them re-
main through the season. Of the wrens there are six spe-
cies ; three of the titmice, and two of the nuthatches. And
in the train follow the thrushes, of which there are seven
species, two of which are new ; of these Wilson's thrush is
pre-eminent in sweetness of song. The fly catchers num-
ber eight species, three of which are new ; and there arc
thirteen species of the finchos, three of which are new.
These are a large and musical band, among which are
several of the faiest souirsters known in the world. In no
instance do we find more richness and delicacy of plumage,
with the most sweet melody of voice, than in a new species
of large bullfinch, which visits this section of country in the

DENDROLOGY.

217

spring. If these were domesticated, they would form a
most valuable addition to any aviary. There arc eight
species of woodpeckers, four of which are new ; and of the
swallow tribe there are five species, one of which is new,
and the most beautiful of the family, characterized by a
splendid changeable green plumage on the head and back,
while the other parts are purple and white. About the
middle of March, the splendid little Nootka humming bird
makes his appearance, coming so suddenly that you won-
der from whence he came, as the fact of his performing a
long migration of weeks, with his delicate little wings, over
a cold and flowerless country, or across the sea, seems in-
credible. The neck of this beautiful bird presents fine va-
riations of color; now it is ruby red, with a metallic lustre;
turn it, and the tints vary from purple to violet and crimson,
according as the light falls upon it.

I pass over the mention of many genera, and still more
numerous species of the diiferent birds of this region, as it
is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only to
give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed of the
ornithological treasures of this interesting country.

Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub-
bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only
enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said
there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far
the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large.
The three kinds are the red, yellow and white. They dif-
fer not only in the color of the wood, but also in their foli-
age. The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the
branchlets in the same form as those found in the United
States ; the yellow only on tiie upper side, or the upper
half of the twigs ; the white is oppositely pinnated. The

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DENDROLOGY.

balsam is alike in the three ditrorent species, found in blis-
ters upon the bark in the same form as in other countries.

White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far
west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few
pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor-
way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not Indow
the Cascades. The new species, which I have called tlie
elastic pine, is far the most numerous, but I did not see any
of these as far west as Walla Walla.

The cedar is the common species, grows very large and
tall, and is the best of the forest trees for various mechani-
cal uses. The yew is also found anionic the evergreens,
though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in small sec-
tions oi the country. The white oak of good quality, and
often large, is a common tree of the forest, and also the
black, rough-barked oak grows in some of the mountainous
parts. In an excursion down the rich plains below Fort
Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade
trees upon a well cultivated farm, I measured a white oak,
which was eight feet in diameter, continued large about
thirty feet high, and then branched out immensely wide,
under which Mr. T. and myself, with our horses, found an
excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two
kinds of ash, the common white ash and the broad leafed.
The latter is very hard. There is also alder, which I have
mentioned as growing very large, and on dry ground as well
as on that which is low and swampy.

There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, the
cotton and balm. The first is common in various parts of
the United States, and is well known ; the second common-
ly called cotton- W'ood, skirting rivers and streams as in the
western States ; the third is the Popuhis hahamifcra, often

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SHRUBBERY.

219

called the balm of Giload. Its distinguishinir properties
are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam in a glutinous state
found in the small twigs, but mostly in the buds. This last
species in some places spreads over large sections of bottom-
land, where the soil is uncommonly good. White maple is
found, but only in small quantities. Willows of various
species are common in all parts of the country. There is
a tree in the lower country which grows much in the form
of the laurel or bay tree, but much larger, — the bark is
smooth and of a red bay color, its leaves arc ovate. It has
been called the strawberry tree, but I do not know with what
propriety. There are no walnut or hickory trees west of
the great mountains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard
or sugar maple, or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry,
cucumber, white wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except
a species of black birch which grows small ; nor are there
any of the species of locusts, hackbcrry, or buckeye. I
might lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above
observations are sufficient to give a general view of the for-
ests trees of the country.

The variety of shrubbery and plants is so numerous, that
iheir examination would employ the botanist many months.
1 shall only sketch a few of those which are scattered over
the prairies and through the forests. Among these are sev-
eral varieties of the thorn-bush, manv of which aro large and
iruitful. Those bearing the red a[)plc, present, when they
are ripe, a very beautiful appearance. There is one species
peculiar to the country west of the mountains, the fruit of
which is black and of a delightfully sweet taste, but not gen-
erally dispersed through the country. It is principally na-
tive about the Blue JMounlains, the Walla Walla and Um-
matilla rivers. The choke cherry is common to all parts of

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220

PLANTS.

the country, and its fruit is very grateful where animal food
is principally depended upon for subsistence. The salalber-
ry is a sweet and pleasant fruit, of a dark purple color, oblong,
and about the bigness of a grape. The scrviceberry is about
the size of a small thorn apple, black when fully ripe, and
pleasantly sweet like the whortleberry ; and tiie pambina
is a bush cranberry. The varieties of the gooseberry are
many, — the common prickly, which grows very large on a
thorny bush, — the small white, which is smooth and very
sweet, — the large smooth purple, and the smooth yellow,
Avhich arc also of a fine flavor. All of these attain to a
good maturity, and those growing on the prairies are very
superior. There are three varieties of the currant, the
pale red, the yellow, which is well tasted, and the black.
Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not so prolific
and desirable as those which grow under the hand of culti-
vation. The beautiful shrub Symphoria raccmosa, called the
snowbcrry, which is found in some of our gardens, grows
here wild and in great abundance.

Besides the common raspberries, there is a now species
which grows in the forests, the berry of which is three times
as large as the common, is a very delicate rich yellow, but
the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new species of
sweet elder which I have already described. The trailing
iioneysuckle is among the first ornaments of nature.

The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in
some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some
small sections red clover is found, differing, however, from
the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and
beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and moun^
tainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their fla-
vor more delicious than any I have tasted in other countries^

f;'''v...APnv.

221

Wild llax 1 have incntionod iitul doscrihod on pago 90.

Suri-flowt'i's ure common, hut do not urow Uu'iro : also a
species of hroom-curn, is found in many places of the hot-
fom-lands of the Colunihia and other streams. To these
may he added a wild irrain somewliat resenihlin^r harli>y, or
rye.

Aniou!^ the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wappa-
too and the cammas. The wfippatoo, is the common .sngit-
taria, or arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the
Columbia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and
becomes soft by roasting, forming a nourishing and agreea-
I)lc food, is much used by the Indians, and is an article of
trade. It grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes which are
covered with water. The Indian women wade in search of
this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it with their
feet, when it rises to the surface of the water and is secured.
The cammas, a tunicated root, in the form of an onion, is of
great importance to the Indians and grows in moist, ricii
ground. It is roasted, pounded, and made into loaves like
bread, and has a taste resembling licorice. The cowish, or
biscuit root, grows on dry land, somewhat larger than a
walnut, tastes like the sweet potato, is prepared in the same
manner for food as the cammas, and is a tolerable substi-
tute for bread. To these may be added the racine am^re, or
bitter root, which grows on dry ground, is fusiform, and
though not pleasant to the taste, is very conducive to health ;
also the common onion, and another characterized by its
beautiful red flower, which often grows upon patches of
volcanic scoria where no other vegetation is seen.

Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been
necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed ac-
count of its geography may with propriety be given here.

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222

MOUNTAINS.

f;>

In comparinf,' tho country west with that cast of the moun-
tains, especially the great valley of the Mississijjpi, we are
impressed very powerfully with the strong contrast which
their distinguishing features present. The valley of the
Mississippi may he called the garden of tho world — every
part abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We see
no barren r,v rocky wastes, no extended swamps or marshes
— no fro/en mountains. Destitute of prominent land-marks
to catch the eye of the traveler, he sees in the wide distance
before him only the almost horizontal lines of level or roll-
ing meadow. No one points him to the peaks of dim moun-
tains and tells him that the range divides two sister states,
or separates two noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting
on the shoulders of lofty Bntes and blending their neutral
tint with the hazy blue of tho landscape before him — nor
Tetons rearing their heads into the region of perpetual
snow — and day after day he pursues his journey without
any thing to create in his bosom emotions of tho grand, and
sublime, unless it be the vastness of the expanse.

Beyond tho Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have
studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains
and widely extended prairies, rich valleys and barren
plains ; and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls,
present a great diversity of prospect. The whole country
is so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from which
a person cannot sec some of tho immense ranges wiiich
intersect its different parts. On an elevation a short dis-
tance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical mountains,
from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, whose tops are cov-
ered with perpetual snow, may be seen rising in the sur-
rounding valley. There are three general ranges, west of
the rocky chain of mountains, running in northern and

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VALLEYS — PLAINS.

223

southern directions. Tiie first above the Falls of the Co-
lumbia river ; the second at and below the Cascades ; the
third towards and along the shores of the Pacific. From
each of these, branches extend in different directions. Be-
sides these there are others which are large and high,
such as the Blue Mountains south of Walla Walla —
the Salmon river mountains between Salmon and the
Cooscoot.ske rivers ; and also in the regions of Okan-
agan and Colvile.

Between these mountains are widespread valleys and
plains. Tlic largest and most fertile valley is included be-
tween Deer island on the west, to within twelve miles of
the Cascades, and is about fifty-five miles wide, and extend-
ing north and south to a creator extent than I had the means
of definitely ascertaining ; probably from Pugets sound on
the north, to the Umbiqui'i river on the south. The Willa-
mette river and a section of the Columbia are included in
this valley. The valley south of the Walla Walla, called
the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. To these
may be added Pierre's Hole and adjacent country ; also
Racine Amrre, east of the Salmon river mountains. On
Mill river, which unites with the Columbia at Colvile, from
the south, through a valley of more than fifty miles, there
are rich bottom lands. While these are open and ready
for cultivation, the hills on both sides of the valley are cov-
ered with woods. Other fertile sections of considerable
magnitude are dispersed over dilferent parts of the country.
To these may be subjoined extensive plains, most of which
are prairies well covered with grass. The whole region
of country west of Salmon river mountains, the Spokein
woods, Okanagan, and quite to the range of mountains
which cross the Columbia at the Falls, is a vast prairie

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224

FORESTS — niVETtS.

covered with frrass, and the soil is generally good. Another
Inrge plain, which is said to he very harren, lies off to the
south-west of Lewis' or Snal<(^ river, ineliidiiijr the Sho-
shones' eoiinfry ; and travelers who have passed through
have pronounced the interior of America a great harren
desert ; but this is drawing a conclusion far too broad
from premises so limited. So far as I have had opportunity
for observation, I should foel warranted in saying, that
while some parts of Oregon are barren, largo portions an*
well adapted to grazing ; and others, though less extensive,
to both tillage and grazing.

lipon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a
largo proportion of the country west of the mountains is
destitute, while some parts are well Huppli(>d. I have al-
ready mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls
of the Colund)ia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and
densely in many parts, especially near the ocean. The
mountains north of the Salmon river, and the country about
the Sjwkein river, and so on still farther north, are well
furnished with forests, and in some other sections there are
partial supplies.

The country in general is well watered, being intersected
with lakes, and many large rivers and tributary streams.
This might be inferred from the fact that tiiere arc so munv
mountains, upon the sides and at the bases oi' which are mul-
titudes of the finest springs. No country furnishes \\ater
more pure and of such crjstal clearness. As the spring
and summer heat commences, the snows of the moimtains
melt, and begin to swell the rivers in the beginning of May.
and the freshet continues to increase until June, when it is
the greatest, and overflows large sections of the low lands
of the valleys, which have the apj)carance of inland seas.

^^.>

It IS

aiuls

icas.

niVERS.

While \\\r rivors of this country uro numerous, and hovcteI
of thcni are lur<,'e, yet iiihiiid navi;j;ation will !)(> attended
with (lillieulties, not only fVoin the many falls and ra|)ids,
but from th(; lahor and expense necessary to construct ca-
nals throu^di the i.mnenscly hard basaltic rock ftnnation.
The (yohnnbia has three larj^'o fulls in the distance of seven
hundred miles; the Cascades, one hundred and thirty miles
from the ocean at the head of tidc^ water ; the Falls of the
Columbia, (()rty miles above the (Cascades ; and the Kettle
Falls, (ivi> hundred and thirty miles above the l''alls of the
Colimd)ia. There are many rapids, but the Nine-mlle Ra-
pids, tiiirty miles above Walla Walla, are the most cndnir-
rassin^i^. The other rivers are still more obstructed wltli
falls and i-apids, except the Willamette, which has only
one fall at the head of its tide water, thirty miles above
its jimction with the Columbia. The obstruction to a
canal around this, is far less than around the above
named falls ; and when constructed, the navigation may
be extended iifty miles farther into the country. "While
such is the condition of the country in respect to its inter-
nal navigation and conunerce, the ingenuity of man in our
day, has provided something which van bo most advanta-
geously applied as a remedy. I mean rail-rfiads. In
making observations, with reference to this very subject,
I was interested to see the wisdom and benevolence of
the Creator, in providing j)asscs through the e stupen-
dous ranges of mountains, running generally from north
to south, and I ihouiiht bow easilv the whole territory
might be traversed in this way ; and the large pentag-
onal basaltic colunms arc ready at hand to facilitate
the work. No country in the world furnishes better

opportunities for water power to be applied to manufuc-

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226

THE SEASONS.

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turing purposes ; every river and stream having falls, cas-
cades and rapids.

The seasons. Tliese are divided into two, the rainy in
the winter, commencing in November and terminating in
May ; the dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute ol'
rain, and during which time the atmosphere is remarkably
serene ; the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the sun,
and the season is most delightful. The climate is far more
temperate and warm west of the Rocky Mountains, than
east in the same latitude, there being at least ten degrees
difference of latitude, as may be seen by the subjoined me-
teorological table. There were only three days in the
whole winter of my residence in the country, that the ther-
mometer sunk as low as 22® Fahrenheit, at Fort Vancou-
ver ; and there were only two mornings in the whole month
of March when white frost was seen. Snow does not fall
deep excepting upon the mountains ; in the valleys it rarely
continues more than a few days, or at the farthest only a
few weeks ; and by the latter part of February or the first
of March, ploughing and sowing is commenced. And not
only is the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is also
healthy, and there are scarcely any prevailing diseases.
except the fever and ague in the lower country, which, as
has been stated, commenced in 1829 ; and the ophthalmy,
which is very general among the Indians of the plains.
It is worthy of notice, that thunder and lightning are
seldom witnessed west of the mountains, but in the val-
ley of the Mississippi, they are very frequent and unu-
sually heavy.

The entire destitution of rain, showers and dew, during
summer, does not exclude fertility ; nor is it peculiar to
this country, for the sf 'He is true of the whole Pacific coast

THE SEASONS.

227

west of the Ancles, and also of the Sandwich and Society
Islands— yet hy various methods of irrigation the soil is
rendered productive. In the country which I am descri-
bing, the winter being so mild, the grain sown in the fall
and spring advances beyond injury before the drouth be-
comes severe, and the grass attains its growth and dries into
iiay upon the ground ; and there being no moisture to de-
compose it, retains its nutritive properties.

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INDIANS OF THE PLAINS.

f, '«

CHAPTER XVI.

Character and condition of the Indians— Indians of tlie plains — their
persons — dress — wcaltli — -habits— pliysical character— manufactures
— their rehgion — wars — vices — moral disposition — superstitions —
medicine men.

As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the
character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rocky
Mountains, tlieir numbers, and the prospects of establishing
the gospel among them, it will not only be proper but im-
portant to give a full and connected description of them in
these respects. In doing this, while I have availed myself
of information collected from men of intclli'fence and in-
tegrity, I have confined my statements to those things which
have been corroborated by, or came under my own obser-
vations ; feeling it a duty to avoid the many fabulous ac-
counts which have been given of Indian character and cus-
toms. Romance may please and excite admiration, fiction
may charm, but only truth can instruct.

I will first describe the Indians of the plains. These
live in the upper country from the Falls of the Columbia to
the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the
plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairie
land. Tiic principal tribes are the Nez Forces, Cayuses,
Walla Wallas, Bonax, Siioshoncs, Spokeins, Flathcads,
Caiur d'Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kcttlefalls, Okanagans,
and Carriers. These do not include probably more than
one half of those cast of the Falls, but of others I have ob-

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COSTUME.

229

These

Inltia to
of the
(iraii'ie
.yuscs,
llieaii.s,
jairans,
tluui
Ivc ob-

tained but little definite knowledge. They all resemble
each other in general characteristics. In their persons the
men are tall, the women are of common stature, and both
are well formed. While there is a strong natural as well
as moral resemblance among all Indians, the complexion of
these is a little fairer than other Indians. Their hair and
eyes are black, their cheek bones high, and very frequent-
ly they have aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ankles,
are small and well formed ; and their movements are easy,
if not graceful. Tiiey wear their hair long, part it upon
tlieir forehead, and let it hang in tresses on each side, or
down behind.

There is a great resemblance in the dress of different tribes,
which generally consist of a shirt, worn over long, close
leggins, with moccasons for the feet. These are of dressed
leather made of the skins of deer, antelope, mountain goat
and sheep ; and over these they wear a blanket or buifalo
robe. Tile borders of their garments are ornamented with
long fringes. They are fond of ornaments, and their heads
and garments arc decorated with feathers, beads, buttons,
and porcupine quills ; these last are colored rod, yellow,
blue, and black, and worked with groat skill and variety of
design. They appear to have less of the propensity to adorn
themselves with painting, than the Indians east of the moun-
tains ; but not unfreciuently vermilion, mixed with red
(day, is used not only upon their faces, but upon their hair.
The dress of the women does not vary much from that of
the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt, they have
what we may call a frock coming down to the ankles.
-Many of them wear a largo cape made of dressed skins,
often highly ornamented wiih large oblong beads of blue,
red, purple, and white, arranged in curved lines covering

,1
t

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, I.

230

THEIR WEALTH.

t !

the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when
clothed in their clean, white dresses of antelope skins, with
their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, and
mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their or-
naments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appearance
that would not lose in comparison with equestrian ladies
of the east.

Their horses are not less finely caparisoned with blue and
scarlet trimmings about their heads, breasts, and loins, hung
with little brass bells.

While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all hea-
then, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible tlian
others, and far more neat than those of the lower country
towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood that there
are not those who are poor, suffering from the want of food
and clothing.

Their wealth consists in their horses, and their conse-
quence depends in a great degree upon the number they
possess, some owning several hundreds ; and that family
is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man,
woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling
from place to place ; and also to carry all tl\eir effects. In
these respects they are far better supplied than any tribes
I saw east of the mountains. While their horses are their
wealth, they derive but little from them for the support of
themselves and families ; for they do not employ them to
cultivate the earth ; and the market for them is so low, that
they command but a small price. A good horse will not sell
for more than enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small
articles of merchandize. For subsistence, they necessarily
depend upon hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and
berries. Their mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most

HABITS.

231

tribes
their
wrt of
icm to
that
lot sell
small
sarily
and
Most

of their food is roasted, and thcv excel in roastinn; fish. The
process is to build a small fire in the centre of their lodge,
to fix the fish upon a stick two or three feet long, and place
one end in the ground so as to bring the fish partly over the
fire, and then by a slow process it is most thoroughly roast-
ed without scorching, or scarcely changing the color. The
principal art consists in taking time, and our best cooks
might improve by following their mode.

The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a gen-
eral remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to con-
firm its truth among the Indians of the plains \ for I rarely
saw any of these Indians not engaged in some object of
pursuit; not the most productive perhaps, but such as enlist-
ed their attention. While I believe that the resemblance,
both physical and moral, of all the different nations and
tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of the conti-
nent of America, is greater than is seen in any people of
any other country of equal extent, yet if it is true, that as
a general fact, "they are morose and gloomy in their coun-
tenances ; sullen, or bacchanalian in their dispositions ; that
they are rarely so joyful as to laugh unless excited by ar-
dent spirits ; that they are taciturn and never indulge in
mirth ; that they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of
social aiTections ; that in proud disdain they turn away
from whatever would excite curiosity ; that no common mo-
tives or endearments excite them to action;" if these things
are true, then the Indians in Oregon arc an exception to
the general fact. In all the above named particulars, I saw
no special dilFerence between them and other nations. As
a part of the human family, they have the same natural pro-
pensities and the same social affections. They are cheer-
ful and often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate ; and anx-

■iW

'i32

MANUFACTURES.

ious to receive instruction in wlmtevcr may condnce to their
Imppiness hero or horoafter. It is worse than idle to speak
of " physical insensibility inwrought into the animal nature
of the Indians, so that their bodies approximate to the in-
sensibility of horses' hoofs." The influence of this kind
of remark is to produce, in the bosoms of all who read
them, the same insensibility that is charged upon the na-
tive character of the Indians, To represent their charac-
ters and tiicir restoration to the common feelings of hu-
manity so hopeless, is to steel the heart of even Christian-
ity itself, if it were possible, against all sympathy, and to
paralizc all exertions and effort to save them from the two-
fold destruction to which they doom them, temporal and
eternal. Is this the reason that Christians arc sitting in
such supineness over their condition, and that the heart-
thrilling appeals for teachers to enlighten them arc disre-
garded ? Is this the reason, that vvliilo the philanthropy of
the United States' citizens towards them is so widely bla-
zoned, those who arc sent to teach them the arts of civilized
life, are sitting quiet on the borders in govermental pay,
while the Indians are roaming still over the prairies in
search of uncertain and precarious game ? I forbear to
tell the whole story.

They have but few manufactures, and those are the most
plain and simple, not extending much beyond dressing the
skins of animals, and making them into clothing; making
bows and arrows and some few articles of furniture. In
dressing skins they never make any use of bark or tannin.
Their process is to remove the hair and flesh from the skins
by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, or when it
can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop, and tlien besmearing
them with the brains of some animal, they smoke them

IMAMJFACTURES.

233

most
the
iking

thorouglily and rub tlicni until tlioy are soft ; and after this
bleacli them with pure white clay. Their mode of smoking
them is to excavate a small place in the ground, about a
foot deep, and over this to construct a fixture in the form of
a lodge, a {"ow feet wide at the base and brought to a point
at the top. Then they build a small fire in the centre, and
place the skins around upon the frame work, so as to make
the enclosure almost smoke tight. The process occupies
about one day. Their mode of dressing buffalo robes is
different. They stretch the skin upon the ground, flesh
side up, fastening it down with pins around the border,
and then with an instrument formed somewhat like a coop-
er's ad/, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of
iron, brought to a blunt edge like the currier's knife, they
clear from it all remaining flesh, and let it thoroughly dry.
After this, with the same instrument, they work upon it with
a pounding, hewing stroke, until they have brought it to a
suitable thickness and rendered it soft and white, as our
buffalo robes are when brought into market. It is a work
of great labor, and is performed by the women. We little
think how much toil it costs a woman to prepare one of
these robes, and then how little is paid for it by the pur-
chaser ; a pound of tobacco or a bunch of beads, is as much
as the Indian generally receives.

Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength-
ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side,
and the string is made of the same substance. Their ar-
rows are made of heavy wood, with one end tlppod with a
sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with a
feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern
the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing

execution, and they manage them with great dexterity.

■■}'

234

MANUFACTURES.

11^

lii'

■ (

Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are
obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a
brass kettle, tin j)ail, and a very few knives. They have
bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the
horns of buHalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and
more solid, from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep.
They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo
horns ; also various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship.
Their saddles arc rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish
saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on the
back part ; generally sitting uneasily upon the horse's
back. Their bridles consist of a rope well made of the
hair, or shag of the buffalo, eight or ten feet long, fastened
in the centre to the under jaw of the horse, and the ends
are brought over the neck for reins. The lasso, which is
used for catching horses and some kinds of wild animals,
is a long rope with a large noose at one end, and the other
end is held firmly in the hand ; the whole is coiled, and
when the distance permits it to be thrown, it is usually so
dexterously done, as to bring the noose over the animal's
head. When mounted, they often have a long leather thong,
or a rope, fastened upon the horse's neck, which trails upon
the ground, and is frequently suffered to remain whv./i the
horse is turned loose, for the convenience of more easily
catching him again.

Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the
traders, were, with great labor and patience, made with
hatchets of stone ; and even now, cost them no small effort.
A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or
two good horses. Their fishing nets are another article
which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in
every particular like our scoop nets.

RELIGION — BELIEF.

235

As regards the religion of the Indians, I have already
stated that they believe in one God, in the immortality of
the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But
while these are the prominent points of their belief, definite
ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely limited,
both in number and in comprehensiveness. As much as
this, however, appears to be true. They believe in one V
Great Spirit, who has created all things, governs all impor-,
tant events, who is the author of all good, and the only ob-
ject of religious homage. They believe he may be dis-
pleased with them for their bad conduct, and in his dis-
pleasure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in
an evil spirit, whom they call cinhn kcncki meohot cimno-
chno ; that is, the black chief below, who is the author of
all the evils which befall them, undeserved as a punish-
ment from the Great Spirit above. They believe that the
soul enters the future world with a similar form, and in
circumstances like those under which it existed in this life.
They believe that in a future state, the happiness of the
good consists in an abundance and enjoyment of those
things which they value here, that their present sources of
happiness will be carried to perfection ; and that the pun-
ishment of the bad will consist in entire exclusion from
every source of happiness, and in finding all causes of mis-
ery here, greatly multiplied hereafter. Thus their ideas
of future happiness and misery arc found to vary according
to their different situations and employments in life. It is
difiicult, if not impossible, to ascertain any thing of their
religious belief beyond these general notions. The number
of words and lorms in their language expressive of abstract
and spiritual ideas, is very small, so that those who wish to
instruct them in these subjects, are compelled to do it by

« ii!;

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236

WAR.

means oi' illustrations and circumlocutions, and the intro-
duction of words from foreign languages. Besides, con-
scious of their ignorance, they are, for the most })art, un-
willing to expose it, by revealing the little knowledge which
they possess. Indeed, wherever a feeling of ignort nee upon
any subject prevails, we lind that all endeavors to elicit the
true amount of knowledge, are 'opelled or evaded. Kvon
men of talents, with us, who converse fluently uj)on most
subjects, arc often silent when religious topics «rc iiitro-
duced.

I am far from I'^Mcving the many lorg and strange tra-
ditions, with whicn we are often entertained. It is more
than probable, that they are in inosl instances the gratui-
tous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunt'Ts to
that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to sub-
jects of this description. The Indians themselves would
often bo as much surprised at the rehearsal of these tradi-
tions, as those are for whose amusement they are fabricated.
My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen
of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the Ilud-
.son Bay Company, who have long been resident in the In-
dian country, and have become extensively acquainted with
their languages.

The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have
no wars among themselves, anil appear to be averse to
them, and do not enter into battle except in self-defense.
and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars arc
with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east
border of the Rocky Mountains, and who are constantly
roving about in war parties, on both sides, in quest of plun-
der. When the Indians on the west meet with any of these
parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if compelled

I • • •

WAR — VICES.

U37

to fiyht, they sliovv a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit,
and rusli upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity ;
and it is said that one Nez Perce, or Flathead warrior, is a
match for thrcD Blackfeet. The only advantaj^e which the
latter have over the former consists in their numbers, there
being more than twenty thousand of the Blackfeet Indians.
When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into
camp, and the women take charge of them, while every
man seizes his weapons of war, whatever they may be,
mounts his horse, and waits firm and undismayed to see if
hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they
rush forward to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat
upon their horses as t'^r'V di*aw near, and fire, and wheel,
and reload, and again rush full speed to the second encoun-
ter. This is continued until victory is decided, which is as
often by the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men..
Very frequently, when t; e Blackfeet see white men with
the Nez Percys or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though
far superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can
furnish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases,
they will raise a white Hag, and come in to smoke the pipe
of peace. The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an
occasion, will say " wo accept your offer to smoke the pipe
of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart is war,,
and your hand blood, but we love peace. You give us the
pipe, but blood always follows."

But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling
is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion which
they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much prac-
ticed in running horses, and foot races, by men, women and
children, and they have games of chance played with sticks

or bones. When I told the Nez Perces that gambling is

21*

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t )•■

298

(iOOD MORALS.

wroii!,', and a violation of tlin tontli coinniandinont ; for ir
is rovotin<r tlin property of unothor, and taliini,' it without
an c<|uivalent, us much a.s stoalin;; ; thov said thov did not
know it hcforo, hnt now they know (3od forltids it thoy will
do so no inaro. Theft is generally suj)poscd to bi; inbred in
t!io Indians, but I was jjlcasod to discover that the tribes of
the plains lield it in abhorrence, and would i)unisii it severe-
ly should it occur. The Shoshones are said to be addicted
to this habit in some degree. Drunkenness is a stranger vice
among these nations, their remove from the sources of this
evil being their security. It is not to be supposed that their
virtue, any more than that of other tribes, would be invul-
nerable if exposed to temptation, fortius habit, like their
proverbial love for finery and ornament, is acquired by
the facilities for indulgence which arc thrown in their way.
The trader goes far into the interior with his packs of
beads, buttons, paints, &:c., to exchange for furs, and teach-
es this ignorant people to set the same value on his articles,
that theirs are intrinsically worth — but who supposes that
they would not know the comparative worth of more useful
goods, if they were offered them ?*

The moral disposition of these Indians is very commend-
able, certainly as much as that of any people that can be
named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to
each other. Wiille among them I saw no contentions, and
heard no angry words from one to another. They manifest
an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may obey
and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace pre-
vail in all their domestic concerns. But when they have

* An attempt was made not long since, bj' an United States citizen,
to construct a distillery on the Willamette river, but for want of suit-
able materials he failed in his object.

sur*:usTiTioNS.

•j:{0

I citizen,
of Kuit-

auy (liiricult suhjrct, which they know not how io dispose of,
they go to tUv'ii chiefs, uiid it" it involves uny inipoitiint prin-
ciple, the ehiels hrinj,' the case to nny white iiiii'i,wlii) niiiy
ho arnont,' thcni, to obtain his opinion, which is (fci'crully fol-
lowed. They tiro scrupulously honest in till tl.'.ir (lealin;j;s,
and lying is scarcely known. They say they fear to sin
against the (treat Spirit, and therefore, liave hut one heart,
and their tongue is straight and not forked. And so cor-
rectly does the law written upon their hearts accord with
the written law of God, that every inl'raction of the seventh
command of the decalogue is punished with severity.

I have witnessed hut few things among them indicative of
superstition. The practice of the JShoshones of cutting them-
selves for the dead, I have already mentioned. The Carri-
ers burn their dead. When a person dies, all the relations
must be assembled, which often occupies many days ; and
if a husband is deceased, the wife must lay her head upon
the bosom of her husband every night, to show her affection
for him ; and when the funeral pile is constructed, the corpse
laid upon it, and the fire enkindled, during the burning of
the body, she must frequently put her hands through the
flame and lay them upon his bosom, to show her continued
aflcetion. Their first chief lost his wife. lie was asked if
he would show the ailection for her, which was required of
others. Ho thought on account of his chieftainship he might
be excused. The people were urgent, and he consented,
but so great was the pain which he endured, that he was
willing the practice should be ameliorated, and it is hoped
it will soon be abolished.

They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for the
white man's Friday, they have a portentous howling of a
large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they hoar

'I- '*i

'vli.iL

4,1

240

MEDICINE MEN.

this when traveling, sadness is at once visible in their
countenances, for it is considered as foreboding some ca-
lamity near.

Among their superstitions may be classed their mode of
curing diseases. They have what are called medicine* men,
who make no pretensions to any knowledge of diseases or
skill in medicine ; but they have a b j in which is deposited
various relics. The patient is stretched upon the ground ;
a number of persons encircle him and sing the medicine
song. The medicine man enters the circle and commences
his magical incantations by holding the medicine bag over
him, which is to operate as a charm ; he uses many ges-
tures, grimaces, and inarticulate sounds ; pats or kneads
the patient with his hands, beginning very softly, and grad-
ually increasing to a considerable degree of severity ; blows
into his ears, and practices other like ceremonies. By this
process the patient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a
free perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. When
the friction has been sufficiently employed, the imagination
well wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly im-
parted its virtues, the medicine man presents some trifling
article, such as a small bone, a stick, or pebble, and says
he has taken it from the body of the patient, and that it was
the cause of the disease; or he gives a heavy pufl* upward,
and says the disease has come out of the patient and gone
upward, and then asks him if he does not feel better. The
patient says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being reliev-
ed from the process. And often the relief is permanent ; for
the friction may have been beneficial, and the imagination
often performs wonders. The medicine man stands respon-

* Tlie word medicine, as used by Indians, signifies any thing niys,
terious.

STEAM BATH.

241

ig niysT

sible for the life of his patient, and if the patient dies, not
unfrequently his own life is taken by some of the relatives
of the deceased. He makes a heavy charge for his servi-
ces, often a horse, and why should he not ? for wlio in such
cases would endanger his life without being well j)aid ? In
some parts of the country, but more especially in the lower
country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it would
be supposed this would deter others from entering into the pro-
fession. But the love of fame and wealth is powerful among
heathen as well as among civilized communities. Undoubt-
edly the medicine men, when they begin their profession,
know that they are practicing deception, but by habitual
deceit, by the confidence others place in their skill, and by
the effects produced through the medium of the imagination,
they finally believe in the elHcacy of their own enchantments,
and that they are consequential men.

I have seen no '• root doctors " in any tribe east or west
of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have had an
opportunity of ascertaining, have but few diseases, and for
the cure of these, they use but little medicine; nor do they
profess to have any knowledge of remedies beyond a few
specifics.

The warm bath is used both by sick and healthy persons
in the following manner. They construct a steam bath in
the form of an oblong oven, two or three feet high, about
six feet long, made of willow branches, each end inserted
into the ground, forming an arch, which is covered with
grass and nmd, or more generally with skins. In this tliey
place a number of hot stones, upon which they pour water.
The person who is to go through the process, enters and is
enclosed nearly air tight, and remains until a very profuse
perspiration is produced^ and often until nearly suffocated.

/■ 'Ml

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I '

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242

MUSIC.

t i '

i! Ill i

He then comes out and plunges at once into cold water,
and no regard is paid to the season of the year, whether
summer or winter.

They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining an
education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sciences.
In things with which they are conversant, such as appertain
to hunting, war, and their limited domestic concerns, they
manifest observation, skill, and intellect ; but beyond these
their knowledge is very limited. They necessarily compute
by numbers, but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is
an interesting fact, that of four different languages, which
I examined, the mode of counting is by tens.

The Klicatat nation count with different words up to ten,
Lou's, one ; necpH, two ; and so to ten ; then they add ica-p-
j)ena to lah^s ; as lah^s wappcna, eleven ; neep't tvappcna,
twelve ; 7ieepH tit, twenty; and in like manner to one hun-
dred, and so on to a thousand by hundreds. In the Nez
Perce language, nox is one, Japeet, two, metait, three, &e.
After ten they repeat the radical numbers with the addition,
f<7, as 7?oa'//f, eleven ; laaptit, iwewiy ; 7netaptit, thirty. This
may be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the
other two proceed in the same manner.

They count their years by snows ; as, maika elaix, snows
six, that is, six years ; and months by moons, and days by
sleeps ; pinemeck pc-e-lcp, sleeps four, (four days.) It is not
common tliat they know their exact age j nor are they very
accurate in chronology.

They are very fond of singing, and generally have flexi-
ble and sweet-toned voices. Most of their singing is with-
out words, excepting upon some special occasions. They
use /*/, ah, in constant repetition, as we use fa, sol, la ; and
instead of several different parts harmonizing, they only

iMUSIC.

243

take eighths, one above another, never exceeding three.
They are conscious of the inferiority of their tunes to
ours, and wisiied to be instructed in this department of
knowledge. In this land of moral desolations, it was
cheerir.g to hear even the most simple strains of melody
and harmony.

^ t !

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f'.ii

244

INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

CFIAPTER XVII.

The Indians of the lower country.

The Indians of the lower country are those between the
shores of the Pacific and the Falls of the Columbia river,
and from Pugets Sound to upper California. The principal
nations are the Chenooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs,
and the Umbaquas. These nations are divided into a great
number of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, yet
each nation has its principal chief, who is head over all the
several tribes, and has a general superintending control.
Their persons are rather below a middle stature, and not
generally as well formed as the Indians of Uie plains or up-
per country. The women are uncouth, and from a com-
bination of causes appear old at an early age. Among these
causes the habit of painting, in which they indulge, destroys
the smooth and healthy appearance of the skin.

These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both phys-
ical and moral, than those of the upper country. Their
dependence for subsistence being mostly confined to fishing
and fowling, they are not so well supplied with clothing as
the upper Indians, who hunt the buffalo, the elk, the ante-
lope and other game. The lower Indians obtain some
game, and clothing from the posts of the Hudson Bay Com-
pany. I have often seen them going about, half naked,
when the thermometer ranged between thirty and forty de-
grees, and their children barefooted and barelegged in the
snow ; and yet when exposed to fatigue, they cannot endure

INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

240

phys-
Their
fishing
liins; as
ante-
some
Com-
Inakcd,
rty de-
lin the
?ndurc

the intensity of the season as well as civilized people. 1
have noticed this, when I have had them employed in con-
veyino- me any considerable distance in a canoe. Their
taste and smellinn; are ohtuse, rendered so bv their lilthv
habits and contaminated food. Bnt they are quick to catch
correcllv a distant sound, and remarkably keen-sii>;hted,
acquired by their habits of closely and carefully watching
li)r "'amo. These nations beincf, from their mode of sub-
sistenco, more stationary than those of the plains, have more
durable and comfortable halntations, which are builtof split
])lank, after the manner of Wanaxka's, near the falls of the
Willamette, which I have described. Some of them indulge
the fancy of making their doors like the face of a man, the
mouth being the place of entrance.

The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as jjood
taste, as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, and are
made of inferior materials ; such as deerskins with the hair
on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. I saw many women
of the poorer class, dressed in a short petticoat or skirt,
made of cedar bark, or a species of strong grass twisted
into strands, one end of which is secured in a girdle or band
to the waist, while the other is suspended, knotted and
fringed. These are a substitute for cloth, which they are
too poor to obtain. The nations near the ocean, who iiave
intercourse with sailors, and access to ardent spirits, are as
degraded as those on our frontiers, and from the same causes.
By their communication with those who furnish them with
the means of intoxication, and who have introduced kindred
vices, they have become indolent and extremely filthy in their
habits, and more debased than the beasts of the earth. How
perfectly neat are the deer and the antelope ; how industri-
ous the beaver and the bee ; how cleanly is the plumage

I i!-

iriN

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246

INDIAUrS OF THE LOWEH COUNTRY.

' ■.ml

of the bird ; liow well adapted to repose are their habita-
tions ; in a wore how diflerent are all their habits, from
those of fallen, pv. ;ted man. It is not the want of rational
powers, but their abuse by sin which has thus degraded
him, and nothing but Christianity can bring him back to
God, and the comforts and decencies of life.

The want of moral instruction, the influence of bad ex-
amples, and unrestrained licentiousness, have brought the
lower Indians into a state of wretchedness which will be en-
tailed upon future generations, and which nothing but the
healing power of the gospel can ever eradicate. There
are some exceptions, but not enough to save these remnants
of once populous nations, if benevolence and humanity do
not soon break their slumbers. It is to be hoped the mis-
sionaries, now in the field, by the blessing of God, will in-
terpose a barrier to these sweeping desolations.

In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from
the upper Indians. While they believe in one Great Spirit,
they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible
agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as
has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of
this, when the May Dacre was passing down the river in
October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the con-
fluence of the Cowalitz, there are some dark recesses in
tlie basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned Capt.
L. not to approach those dark places ; for they were the
residence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all
on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place; and
the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con-
cluded there must have been some great "medicine" in the
ship which defended us. They believe in the immortality
of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the

I ■ , I'-

INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

247

Spirit,
visible
wer as
nen of
ver in
le cen-
ses in
I Capt.
re the
nd all
; and
d con-
' in the
rtality
ve the

same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this be^
lief, the wife of Calpo, an influential chief of tiie Chenook
village near Cape Disappointment, on losing a daughter in
the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her to the
world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of rowing
her canoe to the far off happy regions of the south, where
they locate their imaginary elysium. She deposited her
daughter, with the two slain femah b} side in a canoe,
with articles of clothing and douiootic ihij/iements. She
was the daughter of Concomly, and a woman of distinguished
talents and respectability, a firm friend of white men, and
had more than once saved them from death. How dark was
the mind of this talented woman, and how differently would
she have conducted under the influence of divine revelation !
These Indians never mention the name of their relatives
after they are dead.

It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory,
and along the coast that slavery exists. It was formerly
practiced in the upper country, but was long since abolished.
The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly
owned and liberated by the Nez Perce Indians. They per-
mitted, as I have stated above, their slaves to reside and to
intermarry in their families, and reasoning on the princi-
ples of natural justice, they concluded that it was not right
to hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated them,
and they are now a respectable tribe.

Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, and
carried to perfection. After they have lost every thing
they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; first a hand,
and if unsuccessful, the other; after this an arm, and in the
same manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the head,
and at last their head ; and if they lose this, they go iato

f:i.i.i

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248

INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

i'l:

V-

perpetual slavery. If civilized men mil/ gamble, it is dcsi-
rable they shoukl carry gaming to the same pcrf'etw' m ; for
tiion they would cease to be pests in society, and however
uiilerent may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery,
in this we should generally be agreed, that such slavet
would not deserve much commiseration. The Indian how
ever, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game, ai
civilized gamblers do, when they im{)recate the ctcrna
vengeance of God upon themselves if they are not success
ful. The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights ibi
time onlv.

It is a universal practice to indulge in smoking, but they
do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco.
(3^ and with it they mix freely a plant which renders the fum(

less oftensive. It is a social luxury, and for its enjoymen;
^ i.(^' they form a circle, using only one pipe. The principal
^ chief begins by drawing three whills, the first of which

he sends upward, and then passes the pipe to the next per-
son in dignity, and in like manner it passes : nid until it
comes to the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs,
the last of which he blows through his nose in two columns,
in circling ascent, like a double-fiued chimney. Wiiili
thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or sonn
exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle-field, is rO'
latcd ; and the whole is conducted with gravity. Thei
pipes are variously constructed, and of dillerent materials.
Some of them are wrouirht with much labor and ingenuitv
of an argillaceous stone, of very fine texture, of a blue black
color, found at the north of Queen Charlotte's island. It is
the same kind of stone except in color, as that ibund upon
the head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red. These
stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are soft and

i' :, ■

1"NDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

24t)

! 4

easily worked with a knifo, but on bcinjT exposed to the air,
become hard, and are susceptible of a very good polish.

The Indians in the lower country arc more indolent than
in the u|)per ; and the common motives for industry operate
reversely from those in civilized comnmnities. Tiie more
they can get for their labor, the less they will do ; the more
they can get for an article in sale, the less they will bring
into market. Their wants are but few, and when these
are supplied, they will do no more. They have no dispo-
sition to hoard up treasures, nor any enlarged plans to exe-
cute, requiring expense and labor. If they have any par-
ticular present want tO' supply, they will do what is suffi-
cient to satisfy it, and make no farther effort until urged by
a returning necessity. To make them industrious and pro-
vident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate upon
the comforts of life, and show them that they are attainablej
and that there is an increase of happiness growing out of
industry ; and all this must bo learned by experience, for
abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail. An Indian
may be taken abroad and instructed, and convinced of the
advantages of civilization, but if sent back to his country
alone, he will become discouraged, and return to his former
habits. Missionaries, and practical farmers, and artisans,
must go among them, and make it the business of their
lives to do them good, and identify their own interests with
theirs. Ciiarging them with indolence, and insensibility,
and cruelty, will never make them wiser or bettor. lie is
the true philanthropist, who, instead of passing by on the
other side, goes to them, and does all in his power to raise
them from their degradation, ami bring them to God and to
heaven.

The Indians of the lower countiy, although less anxious

22*

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JoO

INDIANS OF TIIK LOWER COUNTRY.

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to be instructed in the things of religion, than those of tlie
upper country, express a readiness to receive instructors.
I liave not found among thein, nor any Indians beyond tho
influence of frontier settlements, any thing like what has
been stated to have taken place in othiir sections of our
country : that they will listen to statements made by mis-
sionaries, and give their assent to what is said as very good ;
and then state their own theories of religion, expecting the
same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen any
disposition manifested, to say that the Christian religion is
good for white men, but as red men differ, they need a dif-
ferent religion and mode of life. They have not yet been in-
stigated by infidels to say such things. They are cunsciou.s
of their ignorance af God and salvation, and of the various
arts and sciences. While an indifference and apathy char-
acterize some, which is discouraging, yet I know of no in.
superable obstacles to their improvement.

While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians,
they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing
it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long time under a
lingering and dangerous complaint. Their medicine men
had done all they could for him, but without success. Tho
father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancouver,
and earnestly desired to have him treated with care and
with the best medical attendance. The sick son was re-
ceived, and in about six months was restored to healtli.
When his father came to take him home, he remarked to
Dr. McL. " My son is a good boy, he has been with you a
long time, and I think you must love him ; and now as he is
about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and
shirt, and as many other small things as yon think will be
good? We shall always love you."

lii:

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INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

251

idev a
ic men
Tlio
|2ouver,
ire and
las rc-
Ihealth.
■kcd to
li you a
is he is
;ct and
Kvill be

The lower Indians " make tlieir medicine,"' in some par-
ticulars, diirerently from those farther east. Their professed
objects are to obtain present relief, if not a radical euro;
to make his exit more easy if the patient dies, and that his
soul may be rendered capable of performinff its journey to
its far distant and happy country, and also to assuage the
sorrow of surviving relatives. The process is simple, and
occupies five or six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed
of mats and blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and sur-
rounded by a frame work. Two "medicine men" place
themselves upon this frame, and commence a chant in low
long-drawn tones, each holding a wand in his hand, three
or four feet long, with which they beat upon the frame,
keeping time with their tune. They gradually increase
the loudness and the movement of their medicine song, with
a correspondent use of their wand, until the noiso becomes
almost deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient
out of the world. During this time the near relations affect
indillerence to the condition of the sick person, lest their
anxiety should counteract the influence of the charm, and
they arc generally employed about their common business,
the women in making mats, baskets, and moccasons; am
the men lolling about, smoking, or conversing upon com-
mon subjects. In some cases, especially if their conriJence
ill the medicine man is small, they manifest mucli aiiliction
and concern ; and in all cases after the person dies, they
make great lamentation.

I have already mentioned the practice of the lower na-
tions of flattening their heads and piercing their noses. But
another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-horse's tusks,
or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long and an inch
wide, inserted into a hole in their under lip, made for the

! ; .1

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INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

ililli!!;;

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purpose, is not correct in roj^furd to any of tlio Indian.s In
this section of country. Captain Heecliy mentions it as a
common practice from Norton's island and northward ;
wliich was noticed by Deslniow, as long ago as 1048, that
this ornament was worn by men and women about Prince
William's sound, and which custom, Captain B. says, is
common the whole distance along the western shores of
America, as fur as California. 1 saw some specimens of
this ornament, or rather deformity, which were worn by
the natives at Millbank Sound.
t The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the num-

I ber of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian of any
distinction takes as many wives as he is able to support,
and his wealth is supposed to accord with the number.
They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only

i mode of traveling is in canoes ; for the forests are so dense
that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not construct
any roads. As the upper Indians excel in horsemanship,
so these excel in the management of canoes, wliich are un-
commonly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to
thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a good
bateau. They are generally made of the fir tree. The
bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and ward ofl'
the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decorated
with figures of animals, and the upper edge of the canoe is
ornamented with shells. Slaves are employed in propelling
the canoes, but not exclusively ; for often the chiefs will
perform their part of the labor, and the women are equally
expert with the men.

Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of the
upper country, with the addition of hats and baskets of skil-
ful workmanship, made of grass of superior quality, equal

i liaii;;

nship,
.re un-
ve to

•rood

The
d oil'
rated

fs ^vill
rjually

of the

)f,skil-

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INDIANS OF TlIK f.OWEIl COL'NTKY.

•^5:1

to the Lcfrhorn. The native hats are a flarin;? cone. Their
baskets are worked so closely as to hold water, and are
used for pails. ►Sonic of them are interwoven with various
colors and devices, I'ancit'ully representinj^ men, horses, and
llowers.

The <fovernmont of the Indian nations is in the hands of
chiefs, whose ollicc is hereditary, oi' oI)tain(}d by some spe-
cial merit. Their only power is iniluencc; and this in
proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, and courage.
Tiiey do not exercise authority by conunand, but inllucnco
by persuasion, statinf^ what in their judfj^ment they believe
to be ri<i;ht and for the greatest good of their tribe or nation,
or of any family or comnmnity. The chiefs have no pow-
er of levying taxes, and they are so much in the habit of
eontributing their own property lor individual or public
good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their influence
however is great j lor they rarely express an opinion or de-
sire, which is not readily assented to and followed. Any
unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice of
the people. l*robal)ly there is no government upon earth
where there is so much personal and political freedom, and
at the same time so little anarchy; and I can unhesitatingly
say, that I have nowhere witnessed so much subordination,
peace, friendship, and conlidence as exist among the Indi-
ans, in the Oregon Territory. The day may bo rued, when
their order and harmony shall be interrupted by any instru-
mentality whatever.

There are exceptions, however, to the general fact of tlio
good conduct of the chiefs antl the respect which is given
them. Cazenove, the first chief of the Chenook nation, is
one. He was a great warrior, and before the desolating
sickness, which commenced in the year 1829, could briiu'

«i

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254

INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

a thousand warriors into action. He is a man of talents,
and his personal appearance is noble, and ought to represent
a nature kind and generous ; but such is his character, that
his influence is retained among his people more by fear
than by affection. I saw him often, and several times at
my room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, Februa-
ry 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, the heir to his
chieftainship, a young man who had lingered under a pro-
tracted disease. Cazenove departed from the long estab-
lished custom of his nation and fathers of depositing the
dead in canoes, and had him buried in the cemetery of the
Fort, in the decent manner of civilized people. He had the
coffin made large for the purpose of putting into it clothing,
blankets, and such other articles, as he supposed necessary
for the comfort of his son in the world to which he was
gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of the
interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not
at the time furnished with an interpreter, but addressed
those present who understood English. Cazenove expressed
his satisfaction that an address was given, considering it a
token of respect for his son ; and appeared solemn in his
affliction, indulging tears only, and not any loud lamenta-
tions. Had he conducted with equal propriety subsequently,
he would have been worthy of commendation. But when
he returned to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to
kill the mother of this deceased son, who was the daughter
of Conconily, and formerly the wife of Mr. McDougal.
The chiefs say, that they and their sons are too great to
die of themselves, and although they may be sick, and de-
cliue, and die, as others do, yet some person, or some evil
spirit instigated by some one, is the invisible cause of their
Jcatl) ; and thcrelbre when a chief, or chief's son dies, the

t(
k
b

INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.

255

supposed author of the deed must be killed. Cazenove, on
this occasion, fixed on the mother of this son as the victim
of his rage, notwithstanding slie had been most assiduous in
her attention to him, during his protracted sickness. Of
his several wives, she was the most beloved, and his mis-
guided mind led him to believe, that the greater the sacri-
fice, the greater the manifestation of his attachment to his
son, and the more propitiatory to his departed spirit. She
fled into the woods, and the next morning, when the gates
were opened, came into this fort and implored protection.
She was secreted here several days, until her friends at
Chenook Bay heard of her situation, and came and secretly
took her away. Some days after this, a woman was found
killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed to have
been done by Cazenove or some one in his employ.

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nd de-
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f their
les, the

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256

CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN.

CHAPTER XVTII.

ills ,

I- 1|.:'.:'

lillilil,;!-

Oonvoi'salion witli an intcllio-cnt Indian — meeting with Indians —
early and niild season — La Dalles Indians — their anxiety to reeeivc
the gospel — Nootka huniniiiig hird — nuniber ar.d location of the
Indians in the lower country — Indians of the north — the aj^itated
question — solitariness.

A VEuy intelliycnt and influential Indian from the Cas-
cades called at my room, on tlie 8th of February, to en-
quire about God. I endeavored to obtain from him his own
.system of religion. He said, he believed there is a God,
and he supposed he made all things, but he did not know
any thing more about him. I questioned him in regard to
his belief of a future state, and what he expected would be-
come of him when he died. He said he did not know. He
supposed that he should have an existence after death, but
(hd not know what it would be ; and wished me to tell him.
I endeavored to enlighten his mind, and to unfold to him
the great fundamental truths of God and eternity, and the
way to be saved. He listened with attention, and appeared
sober. He told me the Indians were growing better ; that
they did not kill each other in wars as in times past ; that
they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told him that
Was good, but to be saved thty must repent and receive the
Savior by faith, as the only hope for sinners. So benighted
are the minds of these heathen, and so barren their lan-
guage upon spiritual and invisible subjects, that I had to
use such illustrations as I judged best adapted to convey

LA DALLES INDIANS.

257

. :'' (1

truth to his mind, and I doubt not that he received some
knowledge.

The next day lie called again, and wished rac to take his
children and teach them how to read and write, and to wor-
ship God. I endeavored to explain to him the object of my
tour, and that when I returned I would use my influence to
have others come and live among them. But he wanted
me to continue with them and instruct them. And when I
told him I must go, and endeavor to get several to come and
teach in different tribes, he wished to know how many
sleeps it would take me to go, and how many sleeps before
others would come. I told him it would be a great number.
He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered in
the affirmative, and told him it would be at least two snows,
fie paused and looked sorrowful. His very look affected
me ; he arose and went out.

Sabbath, 14th. I attended service as usual in English.
There were manv Indians from the La Dalles who wished
to know if they might bo present. We told them there
would not be sufficient room in the hall, but a few of their
chiefs might attend, and after the English service I would
meet with them ; which I accordingly did in the afternoon.

They were punctual at the hour, and came in single file,

the first chief leading the way. When I prayed with them,

they all kneeled down except two or three, and these were

reprimanded by the chief for impropriety of conduct. As

on other similar occasions, I endeavored to instruct them in

the first principles of our revealed religion, to which they

gave strict attention. The first chief, at the close of service

wished to speak ; and on receiving permission, spoke a short

time to his people, and then told me he had prayed much to

the Great Spirit, and found his heart was no better, but

.'■U* ii

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1 1 i

< W 1

258

EARLY SPRING.

•!:ii:

111

' ■iiilR

worse. He said, a white man gave them a flag, and told
them to set it up on a pole, on Sundays, and meet and pray,
sing their songs, and dance around the pole bearing the flag;
and that they had done so a long time. He wished to
know if it was right,* I told him it was right to meet and
pray, and sing, and talk about God, but to dance on the
Sabbath was very wrong, and would ofTend God. I added
farther, that they needed some person to teach them the
right way to worship God and to be saved. He was affect-
ed, and kneeled down and with tears in his eyes said, if you
must go away, do send us some one to teach us the right
way to serve God. We will now throw away what the man
said to us about dancing. We will go to our people and
tell them what you have said, and worship God as you have
taught us. I never felt so much like weeping over the
heathen, as on this occasion ; to see this poor ber'ghted
Indian chief upon his knees, with tears in his eyes pleading
for some one to come and teach them the way to heaven.
What a spectacle !

March 1st. We have many indications of the presence
of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the soft tem-
perature of the season west of the mountains, render it one
of the most delightful portions of our continent. The wide
and sudden extremes of heat and cold, to which the east-
ern portions are subject, are almost unknown here, and
while this is more agreeable, it is also more favorable to
health,
lishment

Those who have the charge of the farming cstab-

commci

sowmi

* The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the
holy Sabbath, was the fear, that singing and praying without dancing,
would not interest the Indians ; and to include it would not be bo
great a departure from their common practices, as to excite aversion
to worship.

■m

LA DALLES INDIANS.

259

their spring crops ; and the gardener is preparing his ground
for the seeds. The grass in the yard begins to assume its
beautiful, fresh green. The robin and blacl^bird liave con-
tinued here through the winter, and now, with some others
of their feathered brethren, resume their cheerful warb-
lings in the fields and groves. During the winter, the ther-
mometer has not fallen below 22° Fahrenheit, and to this
point only three days. At this date, it stood at sunrise, at
37°; at noon, 4G°; and at sunset, at 44°. The rains through
the winter have been less constant and heavy than 1 antici-
pated ; and snow has fallen only ten days, sometimes in
trifling quantities, and at no one time over the depth of six
inches, and has remained on the ground only a few days.
Some have supposed, that the genial climate of the Oregon
Territory is attributable to the proximity of the great Pa-
cific, shedding the influence of its soft winds far into the in-
terior. But the fact is, that almost the only winds through
the winter are easterly winds, consequently coming direct
from the regions of perpetual snow.

A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, who
reside eighty miles distant. One of their chiefs stated to
my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their mode of
worship ; that they do not now dance on the Sabbath, as
they used to do, but they meet and sing, and pray; and
that since they have been better acquainted with the way
to worshi'" God, He hears their prayers, and that now,
when they and their wives and children are himgry, the}''
pray for deer, and go out to hunt, and (rod sends them
deer to satisfy their wants. It was interesting to know
that they were disposed to do, as well as listen to wiiat is
taught them.

Sabbath, UUh. Besides the usual service in the hall in

flU-.j,!'!

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in ?M

■ i >•:

260

THE KOOTKA HUMMING BIRD.

: :| i

iii

I'll': I
1:11 iii

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ii; I

English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and endea-
vored to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. The}
listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquired
whether they might expect, after I should go away, that
some one would come and teach them. I could not promise,
but replied, that I hoped it would not be more than two
snows, before some one would be sent. They enquired if
afler one or two sleeps, I would let them come to my room
and hear more about God. I appointed to meet them on
Tuesday afternoon, and spoke with them several succeeding
times before their departure.

It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that the
present is the favorable time for the introduction of the
gospel and civilization among the natives of this wide inte-
rior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men will make ag-
gressions here, and the deadly influence of frontier vices
will interpose a barrier to the religion which they now are
so anxious to embrace and practice. Every circumstance
combines to point out the time when this work should begin,
and one of the most important is that these Indians are en-
listed in favor of white men, and feel that their condition, in
all respects, for this world, as well as the coming one, is
better than their own. A well-established Christian influ-
ence among these tribes, would surely be respected by those
who otherwise would invade their rigjits, and deprive them
of a home as dear to them as our own is to us.

March 24th. The season is progressing in delightful
mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are beginning
to send forth their fragrance ; and the Nootka humming
bird has arrived, and is seen darting from bush to bush,
feeding upon the open flowers. This most splendid species
is not known east of the mountains. The whole of the up-

THE INDIAN NATIONS.

261

j-or part of the body is rufous, the head greenish, the throat
cupreous and metalloidul crimson, varying according to the
incidence of light. The throat of this species resembles
that of the common, except, that it is even more gorgeous
in its colors, and in presenting the metallic feathers, forms
a broad ruff in the inferior part of the neck, instead of being
wholly a component part of the plumage. The swallows
made their appearance on the 12th, and a new species of
blue bird of uncommonly beautiful plumage, arrived on the
14th. The swan, several species of geese, and the sand
hill crane, are passing to the north for incubation. Their
screaming notes are constantly heard, and in the night are
not the most favorable to repose.

Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper to-
present, in a connected view, the best information I have
been able to obtain of the several nations, their locations,
and numbers. There are several tribes, about whom my
knowledge is too limited to make any definite statements.
Among them are those about Pugets Sound, and the upper
part of the Cowalitz ; also the Chiltz Indians, north of the
mouth of the Columbia and Chealis rivers. And although
I have seen many of the Klicatat nation, who reside at the
north of the Cascades, yot I have not been able to learn of
them any thing more definite, than that they arc a large
nation. The Chenook nation resides along upon the Co-
lumbia river, from the Cascades to its confiuence with the i"*!, , ^ ,
ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, now num- )

ber not more than fifteen hundred, or two thousand.* v '/ - h*.' '

The Calapooah nation are located south of the Chenooks, ' ^'^"'^ iVirC^ ^
upon the Willamette river and its branches. 'I'hey are di- it) -, /

. "^ (J ylA*. [ .

* Five persons are the supposed number of a family. The nuinbor »

of families is ascertained by their number of lodges or dwellings.

23*

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■f Till

ii62

THE INDIAN NATIONS.

videtl into seventeen dlfTcrent tribes, under their respectivo
cliicfs, and number about eight thousand seven hundred and
eighty persons, who spealc the same language, radically,
witli only a little difierencc in dialeet. They are scattered
over a territory of two hundred miles north and south, and
sixty east and west. Their country is uncommonly good.

South of the Calapooah is the Umbaquu nation, residing
in a valley of the same name. They are divided into six
tribes ; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, Quattamya, and
C/hast^. Their number is about seven thousand. South of
this nation and north of California, there was a very power-
ful nation called the Kinclti, which before the year 1829,
numbered four thousand warriors. But if they have been
swept away by sickness, as the other nations of the lower
country have, it is probable their whole number of men,
women and children, would not now amount to more than
eight thousand.

Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the
Killamooks, who are numerous, but their numbers are not
known. South of these, and at the mouth of the Umbaquu
river, there are the SaliQtla, and two other tribes, supposed
to number 2000 persons.

This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, makes
the number of those known, to be about twenty-five thou-
sand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be
concluded, from facts now collected, that there arc, between
the 42° and 47° north latitude, in what we term the lower
country, as many as twenty-five thousand more, making
fifty thousand, who probably at the present moment would
gladly receive teachers.

Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the follow-
ing statements of the numbers of Indians north of Pugets

i'lilh
i I! i,;i

It'll !

VI';

DUELING.

203

Sound, viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, numbering two
tliousand one hundred and eighty-six. At llygana Harbor,
ftve tribes or bands, amounting to two tliousand ninety-two.
At Queen Charlottes Island, eleven tribes, numbering eight
thousand six hundred persona. About Ilanaga and Chat-
ham Straits, there arc nine tribes, containing six thousand
one hundred and sixty persons. Making the whole number
of inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47''
and 5.3'^ of north latitude, nineteen thousand thirty-eight.
At Queen Charlottes Island there is a field of much promise
for a missionary station, where the necessaries of life could
be easily obtained, and for that high northern latitude, the
climate is very mild.

Their summer and winter residences are built of split

plank, similar to those of the Chenooks. It is said they are

well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and potatoes of

superior quality and in great abundance ; and wild meat i.'^

sometimes obtained. Their dress is much the same as

what has already been described. Polygamy prevails, and

/also slavery. { They do not treat their slaves with as much

1 kindness as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon

; Territory treat theirs. When they kill their slaves, the

'., loss of property is the only thing tliey regard. Sometimes,

v^<J^/

when one chief becomes offended with another, instead of
challenging him to a duel, he goes home and kills a num-

I her of slaves, and cliallenges the other to kill as many.
The challenged person, if he can, kills as many or more,

i and notifies the challenger of the number ; and thus thev

i proceed until one or the other gains the victory ; and the
one who yields in this mode of combat ceases to be a gen-
tleman. " The point of honor" with these barbarous gentry

f is fixed higher than in our Christian country, for here the

■

t. J!,S.

«!

2G4

THE AGITATED QUESTION.

life of^ one satisfies the powerful principle, but there, bkxvd
must /low ()rofusely to quench the noble fire of high n)inded

; revenge. They are not unfrequently engaged in wars,

( which arc often very bloody.

They are much addicted to gambling, and dancing; and
it is said they excel in singing. The country is mountain-
ous, and is generally covered with dense ibre«ts, consisting
mostly of fir.

On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes of In-
dians, making a population of about four thousand two
hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very cold and
unpleasant ; but uninviting as it is, the Hudson Bay Com-
pany have found men who are willing to reside there in suf-
ficient rmmbers to make sLv cstab/ish/itcnls, for the purpose
of obtaining the peltries which the Indians collect. Their
principal establishment, which is Fort Simpson, is on tiie
upper part of the river and is a place of much resort for
the Indians.

iii

mWM

i;ir

March 26th. Rode down once more to the lower plains,
as thev are called, and was delighted with the freshness of
the wheat fields, which are beginning to wave in the gentle
breezes, and the forest trees are beginning to show their
leaves, and their plants their flowers. The sea fowl, which
through the winter covered these fields, are gone to their
summer residences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning
their notes, so full of melody.

The question, to whom does this country belong, has
been, and is becoming still more, a question of general in-
terest, both in Great Britain and the United States. The
aboriginal population claim it as their own, and say, they

THE QUESTION.

U()r)

merely permit white men to reside among them. IJeforc
the first discovery of the noble river, whicli in itself and
its branches waters almost the whole territory, these na-
tives had undisputed possession. But their claim is labori-
ously, extensively, and practically denied ; for autliorities,
both of written law, and the opinion of living judges and
expositors of law, sanction the principle that " unsettled
habitation is not true and legal possession, and that nations
who inhabit fertile countries and disdain or refuse to culti-
vate them, deserve to be extirpated." It is made, then, a
question of enquiry, whose claim to this region is best es-
tablished ? Our government claim exclusive dominion
against any foreign power, of all the country lying between
the 42nd and 49th degrees of north latitude, by treaties with
nations who claim possessions contiguous, and who have
relinquished their claims to the country included in the
the above parallels of latitude, except Great Britain ; by the
discovery o^ the principal river by Capt. Gray of the ship
Columbia, the 14th of May, 1792; and by interior explor-
ation. Great Britain claims the Columbia river for her
southern boundary, by right of discovery. Capt. Brough-
ton, of the ship Chatham, having ascended the river with
two boats, as far as where Fort Vancouver is now situated,
took possession of the river and country in the name of his
Britannic Majesty, on the :Ust of October, 1792. Capt.
Broughton was associated with Capt. Vancouver of the ship
Discovery, on a vo}age of discovery in the north Pacilie, and
around the world. Tiie possession v.as taken in iiis Bri-
tannic; Majesty's name in due ibrm. A friendly old chief,
who did not understand a word of their language, nor they
a word of his, was invited to join in the ceremony, and to
drink his Majesty's health. Captain Broughton says the

'i\ 'I

': M

20G

THE QUESTION.

lU i

cliiof uppoarcd much pleased with the transaction. Hut it
may bo a suhject of enquiry, with which the old friendly
chief was best pleased, the rum he drank on the occasion,
or with the ceremony which was so full of import. And
farther, did the chief, by partaking of his Majesty's rum and
joining in the ceremony, cede all this country to be the io-
vn Jiclc property of a foreign nation ? Still Great Britain
" does not sot up any claim of exclusive jurisdiction or sove.
reignty therein, and denies the claim of the United 8tates
to any such sovereign jurisdiction," but professes to claim
for its subjects the right of joint occupancy, indefinitely de-
ferring the settlement of the question of exclusive dominion.
But these intricate questions, so often asked, I leave to
learned diplomatists to decide, after confessing that 1 am
not able to discover why the nations who have, from time
immemorial, occupied this country, and who, like other na-
tions, have their territorial limits tolerably well defined
among themselves, should not still possess the domain which
our common Creator and Benefactor has kindly given them.
The time has arrived when I expect to resume the work
of further exploration. The weeks and months which I
have spent here have fled rapidly away, while I have been
feebly endeavoring during the winter to benefit the people
of the fort, and the Indians ; and to embrace all the oj)por-
t unities that should present, to collect information in those
particulars which pertain to the direct object of my tour.
I shall wander for a length of time, yet future, among the
wild scenes of nature, which have so gratified and delighted
mo in traversing the wilderness of forest and prairie ; but
my heart looks back to a variety of interesting scenes of
civilized life and cultivated society in my own far distant
land, and I ardently desire to see the wide region before mo

LIHERALITV.

267

broiifrht unilor thn samo beauty and cultivation. All the
.social adeutions of our nature .strongly de.siru tlu^ happine.s.s,
which refined and Christian .society and its concomitant
blessings can alone give. A feeling of solitariness, and of
desolation comes over the mind as you stand on the banks
of the noble Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be
for months, no whitened sail becomes visible to the ga/e of
your watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and
the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you that the white
man's great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its
way, to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco.
The most unimportant incidents become interesting events,
where so much monotony exists.

Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements to
leave this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief clerk
for my bill. He said the Company felt a pleasure in gra-
tuitously conferring all they have done, for the benefit of
the object in which I am engaged. In justice to my own
feelings, and in gratitude to the honorable Company, I
would bear testimony to their uniform politeness and gene-
rosity ; and while I do this, I would express my anxiety
for their salvation, and that they may be rewarded in spir-
itual blessings. In addition to the civilities I had received
as a guest, I had drawn upon their store for clothing, for
goods to pay my Indians, whom I had employed to convey
me in canoes, in my various journeyings, hundreds of miles;
to pay my guides and interpreters ; and upon their provis-
ion store for the support of these men while in my employ.

11...!:

!!li:l

.-i li

268

DEPARTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY.

CHAPTER XIX.

lAi

II. .

Departure for tlie upper country — American hunters — geology at the
Cascades — Indian honesty — escape in a dangerous gale — the Falls
a favorable location for a missionary station — tender sympathy-
famished Indians — arrival at Walla Walla — interesting meeting of
Indians — opportunity to give them religious instructions — a walk —
the nutritious quality of prairie grass.

April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the gen-
tlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever remember, I
took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief belonging to the
La Dalles. Our companj^ consisted of the chi^f and his
daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half-bluod,
named Baptiste, who took the stern, and two white men,
who, with the chief, helped to propel the canoe, making
seven persons. These, with the baggage of several hun-
dred weight, loaded the frail craft so heavily, that its sides
were only about seven inches above water. This, upon a
river averaging about a mile in width, with many rapids,
and subject to winds, was not a pleasant tmdcrtaking. But
at this season of the year, when the Indians are about to
commence fishing, another canoe could not be obtained.

We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to what
are called the upper plains, on the north side of the river,
and encamped. This is a ricli and beautiful prairie of some
miles in circumference, and at this early part of the spring
was covered with a coat of fresh ffreen grass five or six
inches high. A little back from the river, there is a beau-

rl' ■€A

THE CASCADES.

269

or SIX
beau-

tiful lake, the resort of water fowl, which are seen exhibit-
ing their unsullied plumage; and in the rear are forests of
fir, whither the deer, Avhich crop the grass of the prairie, flee,
when tliey sec men ascend the river's bank. A gathering
storm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary ; for as yet
no friendly habitations are reared upon these fertile fields
for the resort and comfort of man.

The rain continuing with some wind, we did not decamp
on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour ; after which
we passed up into the mountainous part of the country be-
low the Cascades, and encamped near the high Pillar rock
which I have mentioned. Soon after leaving our encamp-
ment this morning, we met Captain W. with a small com-
pany of men in two canoes lashed together, on their way to
Fort William upon Wuppatoo island. They were wet with
the rain of the morning ; and their meagre countenances
and tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the
happiness of mountain life, ir indicate that they had found
the hunter's elysium. But they were in good spirits and
passed merrily on their way.

The basaltic rocks, which wall up the shores, in some

places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and in this

.place fur miles, do not lose in interest by review. For more

than half a mile the basalt presented the regular pentagons.

Near these, where the shore was inaccossil)le, we found a

deer almost exhausted with swimming in the cold water.

Its helpless condhion and its nnld, large black eye, excited

by fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; but our men,

instead of rendering it that assistance which it needed, shot

it, and stained the pure water of the river with its blood,

I could not help feeling a sympathy for this poor, beautiful

animal.

'*i-

'U- -i

n „

270

INDIAN HONESTY.

While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were engaged
in taking the canoe up the rapids and the Cascades, I walked
.five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river, and some-
times climbing over precipices ; and so laborious was the
task to get the canoe above all the rapids and falls, that it
occupied most of the day, giving me time for examining the
scenery around. Almost every variety of volcanic pro-
duction was seen, but basalt and amygdaloid predominated.
Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered along the
shores, some of which preserved its natural appearance ;
but the large blocks, when broken, presented the appear-
ance of mineral coal. The scenery around is grand ; yet
such was the misty state of the atmosphere about the tops
of the mountains, which were at this time covered with snow,
and the chilliness accompanying, that the enjoyment was
less than it would have been under other circumstances.
After having finished the portage by the Cascades, we
launched out upon the gentle current above, and proceeding
up the river two miles, encamped upon the north side.
Several Indians came to our encampment and manifested a
kind and sociable disposition. They told us that Captain
W. the day before, in cordcJIing his canoes down the Cas-
cades, had lost one, and with it baggage, of which they had
found some articles, that they would deliver to liim when he
should again pass tiiis way. The Indians are coming in from
their winter retreats, and arc enLjaijed in catching stuvfroon.
The 17th being the Sabbath, we did not remove. It was
a rainy day, and in the forenoon the rain came down in
torrents, which is common about these mountains through
the rainy season of the year. We were not able to make a
fire for preparing food, until after .twelve o'clock, when the
storm began to abate.

DANGEROUS GALE.

271

igaged
valkecl
1 some-
as the
that it
uig the
ic pro-
linated.
ong the
irance ;
appear-
1(1; yet
the tops
th snow,
lent was
[Stances,
-dcs, we
)ceeding
th side,
fested a
Captain
he Cas-
tlioy had
when he
T m from
turjTOon.
It was
down in
through
) make a
tvlicn the

On Monday the weather was more pleasant, and we made
very good progress up the river, througii a country of di-
versified scenery. Tiiough less mountainous than about
the Cascades, yet here were mountains of interesting forms ;
one was almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet high, rising
at an angle of 45 degrees, beautifully smooth and covered
with grass. We passed, a few miles above this, a bluff
presenting a perpendicular semicircle, with fissures i*eg-
ularly radiating from the centre of the diameter. In dif-
ferent places there were red hills of the color of well-burnt
brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, upon
a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, where we
found a good supply of dry wood, which added to our com-
fort and convenience.

A wind which blew very fresh through the night, abated
on the morning of the 19th, and we proceeded on our way
with a gentle breeze, before which we spread a sail made
of a blanket. The wind continued to increase until the
middle of the day, which rendered navigation rather danger-
ous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the
distance of coasting around, the men who rowed wished to
pass over to the south side of the river, which was here
more than a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experi-
ment, because the wind and waves were too high for our
deep-laden canoe ; but us they were anxious to save labor,
1 did not persist in my objections. We had not passed
more than half way across, before the increasing wind raised
waves which rolled and broke three times as high as our
canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At length the men
were not able to keep the canoe headed across the waves,
and it turned sidewavs to them. It seemed that nothing
short of a miraculous providence could save us. But by

272

EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE.

much exertion and some abatement of the wind, we again
got tlie canoe upon our course, and across the waves, and
safely arrived at the south shore. But our greatest danger
was yet before us. After coasting a few miles along the
south shore, we came to a promontory called Cape Horn, a
name given it on account of the dangers of passing. It is of
basaltic formation, rising, as I afterwards found by measure-
ment, two hundred feet perpendicular upon the water's edge,
extending about a mile in length, and the lower part pro-
jecting several hundred feet into the river. The wind had
so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any danger in pass-
ing it, but when we had doubled the Cape, the wind drew
around and increased to a gale. The foaming, breaking
waves ran high, and we could jiot return against the wind,
and to go forward against the current was to add to the
danger of being filled, or dashed against shoreless rocks.
Such was the force of the \vind, and such the efforts of the
men to keep the canoe across the waves and away from the
rocks, that in the same instant of time, the bowman and
steersman both broke their paddles, and the sail was torn
away from the left fastening, and whirled over to tlie right
side of the canoe. It seemed that all hope was gone. There
were only three paddles remaining, two of which were im-
mediately put into the hands of the steersman and bowman.
It was impossible to return, and to make progress against
the current with only such means, appcmed equally imprac-
ticable. A watery grave seemed inevitable ; but by the
protecting mercy of God, when the waves broke, it was just
without the canoe. It was necessary to our safety to be
collected and fearless, and wo cleared the sail, and gave or-
ders as though no danger was near. Contrary to our high-
est expectations, we continued to make headway up the

LA DALLES.

273

Vivor, ai^sisted probably by one of those large eddies, which
abound in this river, until we came to a bay with a sandy
shore, where we safely moored our frail barque, and waited
until the winds and weather became more favorable.

After the wind had somewhat abated, Indians came to us
from the opposite shore, of whom we bought paddles, and
being again equipped for our voyage, we proceeded up the
river to the La Dalles, and as far through them as we could
safely go. Here we landed and encamped on the norta
shore, and a number of Indians soon came to us, whom we
engaged to carry us with horses, to the navigable water
above the Falls. Near this was a very large eddy, where,
two years previously, nine men were drowned. Their
bateau was drawn into it and capsized, and only one man
escaped, which he effected by clinging to a bag containing
some empty kegs. He was carried a few miles down the
river, and then taken up by Indians who were passing in a
canoe.

The 20th was occupied in passing the La Dalles and the
Falls, above which we encamped. This place affords a fa-
vorable location for missionaries. The Indians resort here
in large numbers for fishing, and remain usually through
t'^e summer, and some of Uicm through the year. An in-
tercourse would be always open with surrounding tribes,
and facilities would be at hand both to disseminate the
truths of the gospel, and to obtain the means of comfortable
subsistence.

As soon as we were encamped, the Indians, who are here
in great numbers preparing for fishing, came around us and
their first enquiry was for pi pi, (tobacco.) I am much
disgusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved no long-
er to consider it necessary to conciliate the Indians by smo-

24*

i ll;

iljliiil

•f'i'lT

■I I
ill I

274

CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGiS.

■'- 1

!il!

king the friendly pipe. It' an Indian is sutlcring witli liun-
gcr and nakedness, his first request is for tobacco. As wo
iiad parted with tlic Indians wlso came with us from Fort
Vancouver, wo here engaged two others to assist us a.s far
as Walla Walla.

On the 21st, we t^ok a bateau which we found here, and
progressed slowly up the river against the current and fre-
'juent rapids. On the morning of the 22d, while encamped,
and the m^^n were mal.ing preparation for breakfast, I ram-
bled into a little village in the neighborhood, and called at
a lodgf', 'hose inmates consisted of an aged woman, u
voungoi- ( no, and tour little girls. I addressed them in the
Cho'if).,k l.i.iguage, but they did not understand me. Being
tolerali] > lUmiliar with the language of signs. I enquired
whose wf^rn ihose children. The younijer woman signified
that three of them were hers, but the eldest was an orphan,
whom she had adopted for her own ; and in the most pa-
thetic manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little
of which was intelligible. Tlu; aged matron sitting on the
ground of her movable lodge, with her head reclined upon
her hand, occasionally introduced a few sentences to aid
the narration ; and so sad and affecting was the whole ac-
cent and sound of theii' voices, that I freely sympathized
with them, and nodd._d my assent to all thoy said. I re-
gretted the necessity Avhich con>pelled me to leave them
without being able to point them to Hiin, who is touched
with the feelings of our infirmitv^, aiul who binds -ip the
broken in heart. I thought, as I ^•,•alked slowly back to my
breakfast, iiovv little of the savage character was exhiI)itod
by these females, and on the contrary, how these amiable
sensibilities would have done honor to any civili/ed society.

Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side of

^•■1

FAMISHED INDIANS.

275

lircd

the river, at a place of great resort for the IiuHans, hut they
had not come in from tlicir winter rctroat. Tiierc were
many canoes drawn up at a sliort distance from the shore,
and left without any apprehensions of tiieir heing stolen,
showing the confidence the Indians liavo in each others
lionestv. Thcv do not need guards, nor holts and hars,
and prisons.

To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selected
a place densely covered with wild broom corn of last year's
growtii yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here
skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our
oncajnpment, who were as miserable objects as I have seen.
They were not more than half covered with tattered skins
of rabbits patched togc thcr ; and were emaciated with star-
vation. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of pity,
the traveler needs to carry witii him a store of clothing and
provisions. It is distressing to see them, without having
the means of furnishing them sul)stantial relief.

On the 25th, we made slov/ progress against the strong
current with our poorly manncil bateau, and failing of arri-
ving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, encamped under
the high basaltic rocks, where wo found a small spot of soil
furnishing some wood. The next morning we arrived at
the fort, where I met at the landing a number of No/. Perce
Indians waitinir mv arrival. I felt much satisfaction in
seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of atfcction. It
was lik(^ meeting old Iriends ; and there appeared to be so
much unfeigned pleasure in the reception iliey gavo me,
that it inspired the hope, thiit the disposition they express
to learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation more
permanent than novelty. I had told a baud of the Cay use
Indians, on my way down the river last October, that I would

ill

^ ■^.

176

FULFILMENT OF PROMISE.

meet thorn here in the spring, and inform them about God
and the way to worship him. Many of tliem were here,
ready to attend to the fulfilment of my promise, and un-
doubtedly my arrival at the appointed time, confirmed their
confidence.

As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to con-
tinue here a week or two and improve such opportunities
as might ofler for instructing the Indians residing near this
place, and those who might come from more remote places ;
making the best use of such facilities as can be obtained,
without waiting for the thorough knowledge of their lan-
guage, which the prudence of some persons would consider
indispcnsible to the commenceincnt of teaching them the
way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know what
the religion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its
gratification is postponed. The danger that delay will re-
sult in indiflbrence or disgust, is as great as that an early
attempt to impart instruction may be connected with imper-
fections.

During my continuance in this place, I preached on the
Sabbath morning to the white people belonging to the fort,
and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cayuse, Walla
Walla, and Nez Perce tribes. Thoy always gave good at-
tention, and some appeared to be nmch interested. An in-
stance of opposition to the truths of the gospel occurred
here, proving the truth of the scriptures, that the Savior
is set for the fall and rising of those who hear. A chief
of the Cay uses, who several times came to hear, disliked
what was said about a plurality of wives. He said he would
not part with any of his; for he had always lived ii: sin,
and was going to the place of burning, and it was too late
for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be saved ;

A WALK — GRAND SCENERY.

2i i

and as lie must go to that place, he would go in all his sins,
and would not alter his life. Those who are familiar with
the various methods to which sinners resort, to avoid the
convictions of truth and conscience, may see in his deep ha-
tred to holiness, that the operation of sin is the same in
every unsanctified heart. This is the only instance of open
opposition, that I witnessed among the Indians ; nor does
it characterize the Cayuse tribe. They very much resem-
ble the Nez Perccs in their peaceable disposition, and desire
to be instructed, and present in connection with the Walla
Wallas, a promising field of missionary labor.

May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Colum-
bia through the basaltic mountain, two miles below the fort,
to take a more particular view of the scenery, than can be
obtained in a hasty passage on the river. I ascended the
iiiountain, from the top of which I had a fine prospect of the
country around, opening in every direction as far as the eye
could reach. All parts Avero covered with the fresh green
of spring vegetation. Very few forests were to be seen in
any direction, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the
south, and these, instead of the fresh hues presented by for-
ests at this season, were softened by the distance to a hazy
blue. Even at this distance, the perpetual snows of Mount
Hood, could be distinguished at the west, and at the north-
west Mount Rainier near Puffets Sound ; and at the north
and the east various parts of scattered mountains. After
some time employed in looking around upon the vast ex-
jKinse, [ approached the perpendicular walls, between which
the Columbia descends, which are about three hundred feet
higli, as I ascertained by the number o^ seconds occupied in
tlie dosi;ent of large stones, projected from the brink of the
precipice, which I distinctly heard when they struck upon thc'

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NUTRITIOUS GRASS.

shore below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava,
the latter varying much in color and density, some of it suf-
ciently porous and light to swim upon water. Two thirds
of the way down this deep channel, are two high eminences
called the Pillars, to wliich, by a circuitous route, I de-
scended. They stand upon conical bases, eighty or a hun-
dred feet high above the river ; and above these bases rise
nearly a hundred I'eet perpendicular. They are indeed re-
markable ; but there are so many singular formations in
this volcanic country, that curiosities become conimon. I
returned, though much fatigued with my long walk over
prairies, precipices, and mountains, yet gratified with the
examination of the works of nature.

My horses and mule, uhich I had left with the Nez Perec
Indians, were kept in their country, one hundred and thirty
miles east of this place, and were in April brought into this
neighborhood. To-day, May 5th, they were caught and
brought to the fort. I was surjjrised to find them in fine
order, with now roats, and in high spirits. They had run
out on the prairies wilLout any -■helter from the storms, and
with no food, except what the remains of the previous sum-
mer's growth afforded, together with the early grass of spring.
Who would have supposed, considering their worn down
condition, when I left them in October, that with no other
fare they would have fattened during the winter. This
fact shows the superior mildness of the climate, and the nu-
tritive quality of prairie grass, even after dried up with the
summer drouth. Another evidence of the truth of this
remark may be seen in the condition of the cattle kept at
this fort. With nothing more to feed upon than what
they find upon the prairies, they are now not only in
good order, but some of them are actually fat, and in as

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HIGH WIND.

•^79

goofl condition for market, as oxen driven from the stalls of
New lingland.

1 rode to-day with Mr. P. ton miles up the river to the
conllurnco of the Lewis, or as it is called, the Nez Perec
river, with the Columhia. They are hoth noble streams;
the Columbia is nearly three-fourths of a mile, and the
Nez Perce a half mile wide. The prospect around is de-
lightful; tln^soil is good, as is evidenced by the fresh verdure
which is springing up luxuriantly, at this early season
large band of horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, ■
feeding here. It is a curious fact, that the Tndian horses
do not often stray from the place where they arc left ; habit,
however produced, is as good a safeguard as inclosures.
Along upon the shores of the river, I found specimens of
calcedony and cornelian.

The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer stand-
ing at noon, at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, which is
an un frequent occurrence west of the great mountains.
Towards and through the night the wind blew very strong-
ly, and shook the bastion which I occupied, so that it seem-
ed as if it would be prostrated to the earth : but such wind
in this particular section of country is common.

During the time of my continuance here, I had more
frequent opportunities to address the Indians, and in greater
numbers, than I had anticipated. From the promise that
the word of God shall not return void, but shall accomplish
that whereunto it is sent, may not the hope be indulged, that
some good fruits will be the result of these labors. The
Walla Walla tribe, though the descendants of emancipated
slaves, are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with
the same respect.

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JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY.

CHAPTER XX.

Journey to the Ncz Pcrcd countrj' — funeral of a child — natural sce-
nery — worship on the Sabbath — return to Walla Wulla — industry
of the Indian^ — battle ground— practice of smoking — journey to
Colvilc.

In company with several Ncz Perce Indians who had
come down from their own country to escort me, I com-
menced my journey on the ninth, and pursued the same
route by which I came last autumn. Nothing eventful
marked our way, and we arrived at the Snake or Lewis
river, the evening of the eleventh, where we found several
lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us a very cordial re-
ception, and a warm-hearted shake of the hand, the com-
mon expression of Indian friendship. The night of our ar-
rival a little girl, about six or seven years of age, died, and
on the morning of the twelfth they buried her. Every thing
relating to the burial was conducted with great propriety.
The grave was only about two feet deep ; for thoy have no
spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the earth,
and this was removed with the hands ; and with their hands
they filled up the grave after the body was deposited in it.
A mat was laid in the grave, then the body wrapped in its
blanket, with the child's drinking cup and spoon made of
horn ; then a mat of rushes spread over the whole, and filleil
up, as above described. In this instance they had preparet'
a cross to set up at the grave, most probably having been
told to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I saw

!!•■ «

NATURAL SCENERY.

281

west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teachers, but
as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. One grave
in the same vilhige had a cross standing over it, which, to-
gether with this, were the only relics of the kind I saw, du-
ring my travels in the country. But as I viewed a cross
of wood of no avail, to benefit either the dead or the living,
and far more likely to operate as a salvo to a guilty con-
science, or a stepping-stone to idolatry, than to be understood
in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I
took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke it in
pieces. I then told them tliat we place a stone at the head
and foot of the grave, only to mark the place ; and without
a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our
custom.

As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the
Cooscootske, on account of the liigh water, we had to pass
over the huge precipices of basalt, at the foot of which we
traveled down last fall, and which I have mentioned. We
were compelled often to approach very near the brink, where
it seemed as if we were almost suspended over the dizzy depth
of three hundred feet. We arrived at the Cooscootske early
in the afternoon of the third day after leaving Walla Walla,
making the distance about 120 miles. The whole country
had put on the loveliness of spring, and divested itself of
the dreariness of winter, and the grandeur of the mountain
scenery appeared to rise before me with new freshness and
delight. The Indians are assembling in great numbers
from diifercnt and distant parts of the country, to enquire
about the religion that is to guide them to God and heaven ;
and which they also think has power to elevate them in the
scale of society in this world, and place them on a level

with intelligent as well as Christian white men.

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THE OPHTHALMY.

On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, and
down the Nez Percu river, the country is diversified witli
hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, from five
hundred to two thousand feet hijjh. The volcanic and ar-
gillaceous strata are generally horizontal, but in some places
thrown into various degrees of inclination, from horizontal
to perpendicular ; in other places curved or waving. They
have all the regularity of works of art, raised up by human
skill ; why should not then the power and skill of an Omnip-
otent hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works?

After having been several months where the Indians of
the lower country came daily under my observation, the
contrast between them and these with whom I am now, is
very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject,
both in their manners and spirit ; while the latter are truly
dignified and respectable in their manners and general ap-
pearance, far less enslaved to their appetites, or to those
vices whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know
enough to set some estimate upon character, and have much
of the proud independence of freemen ; and ai'e desirous of
possessing a consequence in the estimation of other people,
and for this reason, wish to be taught, and they receive any
instruction with remarkable docility.

Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are
coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with me ;
but as I have little prospectof the arrival of my interpreter,
I shall probably be left to commiserate their anxiety, while
it will be out of my power to do them good.

I have frequent applications to prescribe for the ophthal-
my, with w-hich the people are much afllicted, and which I
should think is a prevalent endemic. Calomel, applied in
about tiie quantity of one grain to each eye, once in twenty-

WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH.

283'

remedy.

four hours, I found to le an efficacious

rious effects were known to have occurred from its use, and

in most cases it was successful.

The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill and
bravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but say
they now are afraid to go to war; for they no longer be-
lieve that all who fall in battle go to a happy country.
They now believe that the only way to be happy here or
hereafter, is by knowing and doing what God requires.
They have learned enough to fear the consequences of dying
unforgivcn, but not sufficient to embrace the hopes and
consolations of the gospel. I have been interested to see
the reasonings of their minds, and the results of their reflec-
tions, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as
they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not indif-
ferent to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisi-
tive, and capable of thought and investigation. They have
obtained light sufficient, to show how great is the darkness
in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to be hoped,
that those efforts to enlighten them will be followed by those
still more efficient, until that meridian day foretold in proph-
ecy, shall fully come, and these heathen be given to the Savior
with all the remote ends of the earth for a possession.

Sabbath, 15th. Tlie interpreter I ha ' been expecting did
not arrive, and consequently much of what I wished to say
to those hundreds of Indians, could not be communicated
for the want of a medium. I felt distressed for them. They
desired to celebrate the Sabbath after a Christian manner.
When the chiefs came and enquired what they should do, I
told them to collect the people into an assembly and spend
the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in
conversation on those things about which I formerly in-

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284

RETURN TO WALLA WALLA.

structcd them. Thoy did so, and it was truly afTocting to
see their apparent reverence, order and devotion, while I
could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed.
The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales,
and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly
future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the un-
derstanding. As a proof that they have acquired some
correct ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the
employment of mere outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian
who attended mc so faithfully on my outward route, came
to me, anxious to describe the different manner in which he
regarded the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teu-
tacus. He said Charlie prayed with his lips, but Teutucus
prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy
much of his prayers, and if there is one among this multi-
tude, who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited
by the gospel, I believe it is this man.

Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided
what course to pursue in my future movements ; but came
to the conclusion to proceed to the place of Rendezvous, and
join the returning caravan, provided I could go by the way
of the Grand Round, and to the south-west of the Snake
river, and explore a part of the country which I had not
passed through the preceding autumn. But the Indians
chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river moun-
tains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well
ascertained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors
ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I wish-
ed to explore the north-east branch of the Columbia, which
runs through an important part of the country, and upon
which, and its branches, many considerable tribes reside.

To return l)y the way my company would travel, and by

INDIAN INDUSTRY.

285

svell

which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only
partially accomplished ; and after canvassinjj the subject
as deliberately as I could, I concluded to return to Walla
Walla, procure guides and assistants, and go up the Co-
lumbia as far as Colvile, which is the highest post of the
Hudson Bay Company, about seven hundred miles, by the
traveled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the In-
dians of my determination, who, though they evidently pre-
ferred that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the
decision, and showed more kindness than I had expected.
They readily appointed Haminllpilt, one of their young
chiefs, to attend mo on my return down the river. After
writing several letters, to forward to the United States from
Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destina-
tion, and at night arrived at the village on the Nez Perce
river, where we had encamped on the eleventh.

At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the in-
dustry of these people. Some were engaged in catching
fish, and gave me some excellent salmon ; the women and
children were early out on horseback to procure the cowish
root, which they often manufacture into bread ; and when
we left, only a few old persons and very young children re-
mained in their village. Five or six miles from this village,
up a small branch of this river, we passed a spot, which
some few years ago, was a battle-field between the Nez
Percrs and some other nation, whose name I could not with
certainty ascertain, but probably it was the Tuelca. The
ground was judiciously chosen l)y the invading party, which
was just back of a point of land coming down near the
stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass, around which
they opened a fire, while the Nez Perces, not expecting

the approach of a foe, were taken by surprise, and fifteen or

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280

PRACTICE OF SMOKING.

twenty of their number were killed. The very spot where
each individual fell, is now designated by heaps of stones
raised three and four feet high.

The country over which we passed to-day, a distance of
forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with hills
and valleys and covered with its self- provided carpet of
lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and travel-
cd in company. Near night we encamped in a rich valley,
through which a considerable stream of water runs to the
north. Before it was dark, a number more whom I recog-
nized as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently re-
luctant to separate from our company. I conversed with
them about the practice so universal among the men, of
using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence, for
which they pay almost as much as for their whole list of
comforts besides. In reply to my arguments to dissuade
them from its use, they said, "white men smoke." I ad-
mitted the truth, but told them that all white men are not
wise in every thing they do; that they have some practices
which are not good, The Nez Perct's call tobacco, smoke,
and remarked, " we are better then than white men ; for
they eat smoke," — meaning tobacco — "we do not eat smoke."
This to be sure was an argument of much shrewdness, and
wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment to this
stupefying vegetable, that to obtain it, they will part with
the last article of food or clothing, or even take down the
poles which uphold their dwellings, and sell them for fuel.
In this view I regard it as a vice, from which they sliould
be rescued if practicable.

The 18th we continued our journey, and rode forty-five
miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday,
and better supplied with wood. On the upper part of the

RICH SOIL.

287

Walla Walla river is a delifrlitful situation for a missionary
ostablishmont, havin^r niany advantages not found for some
distance around. It is not, however, so central for cither
the Nez Perec's, Cayuses, or \Valla Wallas, as would be de-
sirable, yet a mission located on this fertile field would
draw around an interesting settlement, who would cultivate
the soil, and be instructed. How easily might the plough
go through these valleys, and what rich and abundant har-
vests might be gathered by the hand of industry. But even
now the spontaneous productions of these vast plains, inclu-
ding millions of acres, are so profuse, that not the fiftieth
part becomes the food of organic life. In some places bands
of Indian horses are seen; the timid deer, or liare; the
wary marmot, and the swift gazelle. But these, with other
animals, consume so sinall a proportion, that these wide
fields are comparatively unoccupied.

We experienced a long detention on the morning of the
10th, in consequence of our horses wandering into a ravine,
to which retreat we could not easily trace them. They did
not, however, violate their rule, of making our encampment,
for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles
and arrived at Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the
week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north-
east tour, and in writing letters to friciKi.s. Mr. P. assisted in
obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French voyU'
gcurs to be my assistants; one of whom could speak some
English. I concluded to take horses, and go up through the
Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia to
the loft some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return to take the
river. This would give a more extended observation of the
country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of their condition in
regard to prospects of establishing teachers among them.

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288

JOURNEY TO COLVILE.

On Sabbath, the 22(1, wo had worship as usual, and
the follDwlug day commenced the journey for Colvllc. Our
course was in an easterly direction forty miles, and at nif^ht
we found a new place to lay our heads for rest, in a valley
l)rescntinjj all the appearance of the farmer's grass fields,
ready ibr the mower's hand, and from which he expects to
receive a future gain. But the natives, not aj)preciating
these sources of profit, neglect them altogether, and gather
only a scanty living from a few esculent roots, which grow
spontaneously in the waste.

PALOOSE INDIANS.

289

CHAPTER XXI.

Taloosc Indians — Pavilion river — extraordinary excavation — lost on
tliu prairie — Indian principle — Spokcin woods and country — Indian
ferry — Spokein valley — granite — volcanic curiosities — fertile valley
— worship with the Spokcins — Mill river valley — arrival at Fort
Colvile — description of the place — leave Colvilc for Fort Okanagan
— a mountain of marble — Grand Could, or old bed of the Columbia
— Okanagan described — Long rapids — arrive at Walla Walla.

The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly course,
and after traveling five hours over a somewhat high but
diversified country, descended into a fertile valley, through
which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river. Here
we found a village of Paloose Indians who are a band of the
Ncz Perct's. We hired them to assist us in crossing the
river, which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid cur-
rent. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of
the current carried more than a half mile down the river
before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we
had to encounter the stream, before every thing was safely
over ; and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the
opposite shore. Tiiis, together with refitting, employed sev-
eral hours. We traveled up the Pavilion river, which comes
from the hioh lands that divide the waters of this and the
Spokcin river. This river is walled up with basalt, gene-
rally high and perpendicular, in various windings and forms,
for the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places
the walls arc spread out so widely as to enclose large spaces
of rich interval ; in other places so closing upon the river

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EXTRAORDINAnV EXCAVATION.

us to leave only space sudicicnt for it to pass. The ni^'ht
was cold, the thermometer standing on the morning of the
25th, at :)4°.

We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire
j)rairio, until we came to the south part of the Spokein
country. Near the summit level which divides the waters
of the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting ex-
cavation, walled within by basaltic rocks. The pillars are
regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in sec-
tions of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined,
making a wall from fiftv to one hundred feet hi^h. The
excavated enclosure, though not in a regular form, is yet
nearly entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the out-
side of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and
gradually slopes ofl' in hills and dales. By what agency
was this excavation fortned ? There is no appearance, as
in many other places, of volcanic craters, unless it is itself
a crater, and there are no signs of the action of water.
May it not have been a subsidence ? I passed through it
leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these luigc crys-
tals, of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for
that circumstance, that certain laws govern the mineral
world, as well as the animal or vegetable. We passed
to-day several small villages of the Nez Perc'' and Spo-
kein nations. They all manifested a perfectly friendly
disposition, but appeared to be poor, evidently in want
of a comfortable subsistence. We stopped for the night,
after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these villages of
Spokeins. Their language differs almost entirely from
that of any tribe or nation I have yet seen. One of
my Indian guides was sufficiently acquainted with it to
inform them of the object of my tour through their coun-

LOST ON THK I'RAIIIIR.

291

try, with which they were not only satisfiod, imt ajjpa-
rnntly intcrostciJ.

VV(^ took an curly doparturo on the morning of tlin ^(Uh,
hut iravoled only a tbw liours l)pfbro my Indiuti guides lost
the track and tho course they shouM pursue. Jlccoming
conddeiit that they were r\ot ri^'ht, I alighted and sot my
pocket compass, and discovered that inst(^ud of a north-east
direction, they were f^oing west. ICnquiring of them if they
knew where to find our trail again, oneof them, ayoungchief,
putting his hand to his head, and with gestures expressing
the confusion of his mind, answered, waiiUi en soko, " I do not
know." Our situation was rather cmharrassing. Wo had
very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and at about an
equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a widely
extended prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants
only for two days, and no probable means for obtaining
more until we siiould arrive at tho fort ; to be lost under
these circumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of
a high mountain we had passed was in view, and we might
retrace our path, and therefore I was determined not to lose
sight of this land-mark, until wo should find the trail lead-
ing to the Spokein river. While my guides went ofT in
search of it, I could hardly fail to find even in our circum-
stances, some amusement in the apathy of my two French-
men. They arc so confiding in Indian skill to find their
way through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing
or go to sleep with the same heedless indidorence when lost
in a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of
a well known river, or performing the duties of the fort.
They appear wholly unconsciousof danger on the approach
of hunger and starvation, until long after tiio last morsel is
consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils

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SPOKEIN RIVER.

that aflllct tlicm to-day. On this occasion these men spent
the titno of our detention in cahn repose. After some time
our guides returned and told mo they had found some Spo-
kein Indians about a mile distant, who were traveling to-
wards the south, but had stopped to refresh their horses.
We proceeded to the place, and I engaged one of them to
assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to the Spo..
kein river. He was a tall, intelligent looking man. IIo
mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, jaded
as our horses were, it was M'ith difficulty we could keep up
with him. After going at this rate more than an hour, lie
stopped, and pointed us to a lake, and said we should find
the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose
our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their vil-
lage on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go any
farther, although I offered him a large compensation. His
only, and unvarying answer was, that he had done for us
all that was needed, and why should he perform any un-
necessary labor for us and take pay. It appeared to be a
principle with him, that it would be wrong for him to take
pay for what we did not need. I was astonished at the hon-
esty of this heathen, and his steadfast adherence to it, when
I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who
to be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unnecessary
extent, and artfully deceive you to make you believe it very
important. For his faithfulness and Iwncsiii I not only jiaid
him on the spot to his satisfaction, but afterwards sent him
a present of powder and balls, articles highly valued.

Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the Spokein
river, at four o'clock, P. M. A few miles after we left the
lake, we entered the Spokein woods which are very exten-
sive, consisting of yellow pitch and elastic pine, some hem-

SPOKEIN VALLEY.

293

'pokein
'ft the

loc, spruce and fir, together with various shrubbery. These
arc tlio woods in which Ross Cox was lost, about the cir-
cumstances of which lie gives a very interesting description,
but wliich, so far as I have yet had an opportunity to judge,
contains far more fiction than truth. But iiis multitude of
growling bears, and howling wolves, and alarming rattle-
snakes, of wiiich I have seen only one, may yet come out
from their lurking places in hostile array.

When we came to the river, which is about thirty rods
wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian wlio keeps a
canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women
came to the river, and with uncommonly pleasant voices,
together with the language of signs, tiie latter of which
only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was
gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and
the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come
and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of
kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to u^,
and my men would perform the labor of ferrying over our
baggage. Tliey declined on account of the rapidity and
streni'th of the current, the river being in full freshet.
Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning.

This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten-
sively wide. The North-west Company had a trading post
here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods
})ros(Mit a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is
seen in great numbers, flying from tree to tree, vociferating
its chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens
arc numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with
their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their
carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their

intervals of labor, while constructing their habitations so

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SPOKEIN VALLEY.

admirably adapted for their tender offspring ; on an exam-
ination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be as-
tonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God has
manifested himsef in supplying, instead of reason, a myste-
rious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end to be
accomplished.

On the 27th, about the time in the morning mentioned by
the two women, the Indian ferryman came, and crossed the
river in his canoe. His appearance, together with that of
his canoe, reminded me of jEneas' ferryman, who carried
him over the Stygian lake.

" Canites inculta jacct ;
Sordidus ex hiinicris nodo dcpendet amictus,
Coeruleam advertit cymbam, ripasque propinquat."

After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial
soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the
east side especially is very fertile. Here the village of the
Spokeins is located, and one of their number has commenced
the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has
planted with potatoes, peas, and beans, and some other ve-
getables ; all of which were flourishing, and were the first
I had seen springing up under Indian industry Avcst of the
mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley
to the foot of the mountain on the east, and pointed out the
trail we should pursue. As we wound our way up the
mountain, I looked down into the valley we had crossed,
and which stretches along the winding river, and drew in
my imagination a picture of what it will be, when this peo-
ple are brought under the influence of Christianity and civ-
ilization. This section of country presents less appearance
of volcanic operation ; and in several places I found granite

VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES.

295

in its natural form and position, resembling that found in
the Eastern States. When we had arrived at the summit
of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, several miles
wide, covered with yellow pine forming an open forest.
Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic eruptions
of singular formation. Hundreds of regular cones of vari-
ous magnitudes, from those of only a few feet in diameter
and height, to those a hundred in diameter and sixty feet
high. They all had the same appearance, differing only
in magnitude, and were composed of broken granite, in
angular pieces, from those that were very small, to six or
eight inches in diameter, and on the outside were nearly
black, as if colored with rising smoke. They had more
the appearance of being broken by manual labor, and piled
up for future use in constructing roads or wharves, than the
result of internal fires, and yet no other cause but the latter
can be assigned. The sandy plain around them was un-
disturbed, and large pine trees were growing about them as
in other places. At the south of these were large rocks of
granite, and in one place a basaltic dyke extending a hun-
dred rods or more.

After passing this plain, we descended and came again
to the Spokein river, whicii makes a bond around to the
north-east. In this place the valley is less extensive, and
the mountains more precipitous. We again ascended the
mountain, upon which granite and mica slate prevail, with-
out any volcanic appearances. From tiiis we descended into
a rich valley, which was covered with a luxuriant growth
of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has the
appearance of having been a lake filled up with mountain
deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from which pro-
ceeds a rivulet passing out at the south-west. Leaving

f I

296

ANXIETY OF THE SPOKErNS.

Ihis place, we wound around a mountain in a northerly (17-
rection, down a valley less fertile but more extensive, and
at four in the afternoon came to a stream of water, coming
from the mountains at the east, where our guides said we
must stop for the night.

Near evening, several companies of Spokein and some
Nez Perce Indians came riding into the place of our en-
campment, and turned out their horses with ours in the half
wood and prairie. The Spokeins, who had seen me on my
way, and had learned who I was, sent information out to the
various hunting parties, that a minister was passing through
their country, and as it was the first time one was ever
among them, they wished to see him and hear what he had
to say to them. They brought with them a good interpre-
ter, a young man of their nation, who had been in the school
at the Red river settlement on the east side of the mountain,
and had obtained a very good knowledge of English. We
had public worship that evening in the Spokein and Ne/
Perce languages. One of the Nez Porces, a chief who
understood the Spokein language, collected his])coj>le, a little
to the left of the Spokeins, and translated the discourse as it
was delivered, into the language of his people, without any
interruption to the service. This was a plan of their own
devising. All the circumstances combined were to me unu-
sually interesting. Providences above my control had de-
layed me three several times, and thus given them an oppor-
tunity to collect their people and overtake me. Some of them
had pursued my path a day and a half, and were unwilling
to return, being resolved to accompany me to Colvile.
These benighted Indians manifested the same solicitude to
hear the gospel that others had done before. And as a most
affecting proof that the impressions then made on their minds

»i i

MILL RIVER VALLEY.

297

were not momentary, they went home and erected in their
village a church, constructed of rude materials surely, but
designed, as they said, to furnish a place, that when the next
missionary should arrive, he might stop and teach them.*

The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain fell,
but this did not prevent our early departure ; for it was ne-
cessary to be on our way, as my men had the evening before
consumed their entire stock of provisions, and, whatever
might occur, we could procure no more until we should
reach Colvile. We could not obtain any game, for being
advised by the superintendent at Walla Walla not to en-
cumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them
behind. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direc-
tion we came to a very fertile valley, well adapted to culti-
vation, extending north and south at least fifty miles, and of
various extent in widtii, from a half mile to two miles. The
valley is an open prairie well supplied with grass, and even
in this high latitude of 48°, cattle could do well through the
whole year, without the labor of cutting hay. The hills on
each side are covered with woods. x\s we proceeded down
this valley, we came to villages of Indians who understood
the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe, pro-
bably to the Ca'ur d'Alene. Near their principal village
we came to Mill river, which was in full freshet. They had
no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage
across. But the Nez Perec chief took part of it upon his
shoulder, mounted his horse, and swam over, and crossed
and re-crossed until all was upon the other side. I then

* Tho name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes
Spokane. I called them Spokans, but they corrected my pronuncia-
tion, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until I
was convinced that to give their nams a correct pronunciation it
should be written Spokein.

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298

FORT COL VILE.

crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable meth-
od, but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback.
After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my
remaining stock of eatables with my destitute Frer.ch and
Indian attendants, leaving the anticipation of our next meal
to the time when, after a long day's industrious travel, we
should find ourselves safely at Colvile.

Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we
were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missiona-
ry located here, would have easy access to the Spokein, Sap-
well, Sintou-tou-oulish, Kettle falls, Lake, CcEur d'Ak'ne,
and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field
within two hundred miles, presenting the natural advanta-
ges of mild climate, good soil, and forests.

We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, after a
weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is
on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, sur-
rounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in
every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ;
and a half mile below are Kettle falls, above which the
river spreads out widely, and moves slowly, but just above
the precipice it contracts into a narrow channel, and dis-
appears from the view of the spectator at the fort, until
seen winding its way among rocks below. This establish-
ment is built for defense and is well stoccadcd,butso friend-
ly have the natives always been, that no wars have ever
occurred among them. It is occupied by some half dozen
men with Indian families, and is well supplied with the
useful animals and fowls common to farming establish-
ments. The winter and summer grains, together with gar-
den vegetables, are cultivated with success and in profusion.
This place does not suffer with summer drouth, like many

Worship at the fort.

299

other parts of this country, and rains are of frequent occur-
rence ; the seasons here are not divided, as on tiie lower
parts of the Columbia, into wet and dry.

I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDonald,
the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few
days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver ; but the
kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge
of the fort. I found here an old man, who thirty years be-
fore accompanied Lewis and Clarke across the continent,
and had for several years past taken up his residence here.
He is in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter-
preter to the neighboring Indians.

On Sabbath the '29th, the people of the fort who under-
stood English, assembled, and we worshiped the God of
our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and from differ-
ont nations had collected us in a little group in this re-
gion of the world. The Indians too came about me and
expressed great anxiety to be taught the revealed will of
God. They endeavored to make me understand what their
former traditionary belief and practices iiad been, and to
let me know, that what they had learned from me was rea-
sonable and satisfactory to them, and that tiiey wished to
know all that related to so important and momentous a sub-
ject. Hut our medium of communication was inadequate
to a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God
so loved the world that ho gave his only Son to die for its
redemption.

Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant re-
gion they have invariably, with earnestness and importuni-
ty, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of Christians.
But how little of the faith, and love, and liberality of the
church is invested in the most profitable of all enterprises,

1 .

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300

JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA.

the conversion of tlie world. Should some one propose the-
construction of a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific,
and demonstrate the practicability of tiie measure, and show
that nature has interposed no cilcctual barrier, and that it
would concentrate not only the wliolc internal, but also the
Ciiina trade, and the stock would produce annually a rich
dividend, how soon would Christians engage in it.

Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our journey
down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the
boats from this place on their late passage to Fort Vancou-
ver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I
changed my guides for two others; one a Spokein, and the
other a Paloosc ; retaining my two r^oyageurs. As we left
Fort Colvile we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Co-
lumbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken
cataract for the distance of one hundred feet, it was a su-
blime spectacle. The whole scenery as we proceeded down
the river was marked by variety, wildncss, and romantic
grandeur, as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote
regions, had consulted for her own amusement some of her
most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around
are constructed on a scale of magnificence, presenting al-
most all the varieties of elevation, precipice, and forest.
This is the country which by more than one of my prede-
cessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves,
bears, and rattle-snakes, to an extent that renders it almost
impenetrable, by ordinary courage ; but we found no indi-
cations of the presence of these animals before this even-
ing, when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once
interrupted the universal silence by which we were sur-
rounded.

After a few hours ride, on the morning of the Slst, we

LOCATION OF MARBLE.

301

re-crossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the
Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a
much more numerous population than now obtain a subsist-
ence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here
afforded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in
ferrying the river. In the neighborhood of this place 1 dis-
covered a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine
marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river :
some sections are pure white, while others are beautifully
clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced freely with
sulphuric acid. Tiiis will in time become very valuable,
for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into
various countries. Several miles below this marble loca-
tion I was interested with the juxtaposition of granite and
basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land one hundred
and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there were
large quantities of solid granite in its natural position, with-
out any appearance of having undergone an igneous in-
fluence, and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of
i)asalt rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of
having been thrown up by several successive volcanic erup-
tions ; the earth on the back side gradually rising to a
mountain.

At this place we lef\ the river, to save traversing a great
bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to reach it
again befoi'e night. We pursued our way over an elevated
prairie, destitute of wood and water. It became evident
that night would overtake us before we could reach the river,
unless we should urge forward with all the speed that hu.
manity for our horses would permit. Before five o'clock
we came near the great gulf walled up with basalt, which as
we supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our

302

GRAND COULE.

next object was to find a place where we could descend to
its shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we
found a descent by a ravine ; but to our disappointment
discovered that it was the Grand Coule, which was un-
doubtedly the former channel of the river. With consider,
able difficulty we wound our way into it, and found it well
covered with grass, and by searching, obtained a small
supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is
nearly a mile wide, with a level bottom, and studded with
islands. Its sides are lined, as the river itself is in many
places, with basaltic rocks, two and three hundred feet per-
pendicular. This Coule separates to the left from the pres-
ent channel of the Columbia, about one hundred miles be-
low Colvile, and is about one hundred miles in length, when
it again unites with the river. The basaltic appearances
are exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences
of eruptions at difTcrcnt periods of tiinc. A peculiarity in
this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight or ten
feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. Those who
have traveled through the whole length of the Coule, rep-
resent it as having the same general features tliroughout,
while the whole distance of the river around to the place
where it again unites, as I know from personal observation,
has not the peculiarity of a deep channel, cut through tho
rocks.

We left tho Grand Couk' early on the morning of the 1st
of June, and with difficulty ascended the western bank.
Before noon my guides lost the way to Okanagan, and wan-
dered far out upon the wide prairie where there was no
water. Losing my confidence in their knowledge of the
country, except on some frequented routes, I directed my
course for the river ; and perceiving a snow-topped moun-

FORT OKANAGAN.

no3

lain in the distance,! concliulod tlio river must lie between
it and oiirselvcs, and accordingly made it my land-
mark. Pursuing this direction a few hours with rapid
speed, we came to a slope which gradually narrowed into
a ravine, and introduced us at length to a spring of water.
Our thirsty horses rushed into it, and it was with difllculty
wo could control their excess in drinking. We followed
this ravine, the water of which continually gained acces-
sions until it became a large stream, with a rich valley of
alluvial bottom, and united its waters with the Columbia, a
few miles above Fort Okanagan, the place of our destination.
Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Co-
lumbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from
which, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the
fort takes its name. It was first built by Mr. David Stu-
art, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811.
There is an open space of considerable extent around ; the
soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but produ-
cing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the
station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the
vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have contin-
ued so long in its present channel, since leaving the Grand
Coulc, as to form those extensive alluvial bottoms, which
exist in many other parts of its course. After leaving the
Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply timber
for fuel, fencing or building. They are dependent on flood-
wood which descends the river for their ordinary fuel, and
the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far dis-
tant, at the north there are snow-topped mountains, yet the
country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place
I had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe.
Their personal appearance is less noble than the Spokcins,

1' -Aid M

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ao4

OKANAOAN INDIANS.

l)Ut tlicy nro not less pcuccublo, fricinlly and lionrst in tlioir
(Jisjwsitidiis. 'I'liis is evident from the fact tliut the clmi'go
rif the fort in the ubsenee of Cupt. Ogdcii, the suj)erinten-
dent, was connnitted temporarily to ii Frciiehman, and sev-
eral of the Indians. This tribe with the Shoosluips number
about two thousand persons. They are nuich employed in
ihc salmon fishery, and larjLfo (piantities are prepared by
dryinif for the winter's use. Their country does not abound
in {^ame, and hunting oeeuj)ies but little of their time. The
climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, is
very mild and salubrious.

Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two
Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a bateau
which wc obtained at this place ; and conmiitted our horses
to my Indian guides to take them across the country to
Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men
was witiiout any suspicion, and I could trust them with our
six horses, saddles and bridles, to go on any enterprise w ith-
in their capacity to accomj)lish. They have so much self-
respect that they would not on any account commit a
crime, which would expel them from their people, induce
them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free-
men.

We embarked in our boat, June 2d, to perform a voyage
of foui' hundred miles, with the river in full freshet; and its
strong current increased by high water, secured to us a ve-
locity l)(>yond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and
dashed over the breaking surges, where the least misman-
agement would have caused inevitable submersion without
any prospect of escape. But my vnyagcvrs showed by
their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favor-
ite element, and their gayety and songs began to revive, on

rKTlllFIEI) TUKE

305

l>oin«^ rplievfil from the roiifrh, niid to tli<^m iiiiploasnnt jour,
iicy (111 Ijorsclmt'lv, over hills ami down ruvirics, mid tliroii^^li
tbrcsis. Tiiu rlasticitv oi' their iiafivo (diaracttr was al.
most iiinr 'diiitcly ii j*[)ai'ont, and wo i^lidod on with ((dcrity,
jnakiiiii: a vovni'i' of one hundn'd miles hoforc it was neocs.
sary to seek our safety for the ni^ht oil hhore. The coun-
try throuifh whitdi wo passed to-day was rather mountain-
ous. I saw many locations of granite in its natural state,
hut as we proceeded, volcanic- operations hegan to appear,
and the granite exhihited the elfects of intense heat, until
it wholly disappeared, and hreccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and
lava took its place. In the afternoon we passed a perpen-
dicular section of rock, two hundred and fifty feet high ;
half way to the top of which, a petrified tree of considera-
ble magnitude is suspended, ft appears to be retained Id its
place by having its roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks,
between the layers of ditlerent eruptions. How it procured
its elevated situation is (juite a mystery. It could not have
vegetated there, unless at the time of its growth, it was sup-
ported by a surface upon which to rise ; and taking the pre-
•sent condition of the rocks, it could not he deposited thoro
by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such
case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gen-
tlemen of the Hudson Bay ('ompany, and others who navi-
gate this river, have amused themselves by shooting oil
j)ieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was wholly
a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few
miles above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles.

On the :Jd, as we approached the Long Rapids about fifty
miles above Walla Walla they presented the appearance of
waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their dis-
tant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morning. To

806

LONG BAPIDS.

pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires
courage and self-possession ; but knowing that these inland
navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating ex-
cursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I an-
ticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care
and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance
of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls,
cascades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying scene-
ry of nature's wildest and grandest forms, tliat keeps the
mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some
new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of
several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not
unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when
it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security
is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable
disposition of time, is pleasant.

My voyageurs called my attention to a red lurid aspect
of the atmosphere in the south, and said we should have a
strong wind from that quarter. Their prognostication was
soon realized. The gale did not last long, and the only
remarkable feature was, that when it subsided, it was al-
most instantaneously.

Through the distance of about one hundred miles, which
we passed to-day, the country is level and destitute of wood.
I observed a bank of clay in layers of diversified struc-
ture, such as I have often noticed. The difierent sections
were of various colors ; some dusky red, some yellow, and
blue, and others white, making an upright elevation of one
hundred feet or more.

Salmon are ascending the river in great numbers, and
groups of Indians arc scattered along pursuing the employ-
ment of catching them. Wherever we passed them, they

ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA.

307

came off in their canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of
which were roasted in the best manner, and served up on
broad pieces of bark, which answered a good purpose in
the absence of plates ; and often large leaves of plants were
spread neatly upon the bark. Upon these we dined, with-
out bread, vegetables, or salt. My voyageurs found suffi-
cient employment in the gratification of their appetites, to
interrupt for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived
at Walla Walla at evening, just in season to find shelter
from one of the most violent thunder storms, accompanied
with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Such
storms are of rare occurrence west of the mountains.

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308

SNAKE INDIANS.

CHAPTER XXII.

A Bummary of the Indians of the Upper comitry — names of the trilxK,
their loeatlons and numbers — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancou-
ver — swift passage down the river — run tiie Falls — ('ascades — dan-
gerous eddy — arrive at Vancouver — slcain boat excursion.

Having traveled over the most important parts of tin-
upper country, and collected the facts of its physical condi-
tion, together with tiie location, character, and condition
of the most numerous trihes of Indians; hefore leaving
this section of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains,
it may be proper to give a connected summary of these par-
ticulars. On the south part of the Oregon Territory, ad-
joining Upper California, are located the Shoshones or
Snake Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their
definite numbers, but the general estimate is that they arc
more than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the
most barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being cov-
ered with scoria and other volcanic productions. These
Indians arc poor, and as indicative of their condition and
their resources, they are called Snake Indians, and Root-
diaijcrs. Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buf-
falo, and they very generally resort to the river in the sea-
son of fishing. They have a tolerable supply of liorscs.
When they go to Rendezvous they make a great display,
advancing on horseback, dressed in their most fantastic
manner, exhibiting all their ornaments of feathers, beads,
wolf-tails, teeth and claws of animals, arranged according

INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES.

309

to their notions of good taste. The warriors are armed,
hideously painted, and those who have been wounded in bat-
tle are very fond of showing their scars. After coursing
around and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time,
they dismount and go through the ceremony of shaking
hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many of the
Utaws at Rendezvous. Their country is situated to the
east and south-east of the Slioshones, about the Salt Lake
and on the head waters of the Colorado river, which empties
into the gulf of California. They number nearly four thou-
sand persons, and appear to be a mild and peaceable people,
Jionest, kind, and hospitable to strangers, and affectionate
among themselves. They live by hunting, fishing, and
gathering roots and berries. Their dress is plain, and their
manners are unassuming. Their country being in latitude
about 41°, has a fine climate, and good soil.

Proceeding north, we come to the country of the Nez
Forces, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage and
is throughout a fine grazing country. They number about
two thousand five hundred ; but they have already been
often mentioned.

The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez Perces,
and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits and
morals. They are equally peaceable, honest and hospitable
to strangers. They number more than two thousand persons.
Their wealth consist in horses, which arc unusually fine and
numerous ; it being no uncommon thing for one man to own
several hundred. Their country, especially that about the
(jrrand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spontane-
ously cammas in great abundance, upon which, with fish and
some game, they principally subsist. Tliey express the same

anxiety to be instructed as the Nez Perces and Flatheads.

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310

INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES.

The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about tiii.'
river of the same name, and range some distance below,
along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this
tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employ-
ments and moral habits, they do not materially differ from
the last named tribes.

The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perccs,
and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along
the Nez Perco river and up the Pavilion. They number
about three hundred. The four last named tribes speak the
same language with a little dialectical difference.

North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. They
number about eight hundred persons, besides some small
tribes adjoining them who might be counted a part of their
nation. I have so fully described them that it is unneces-
sary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is
much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie and
woods, and a large part is of primitive formation, and some
parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves the
children of the sun, which in their language is Spokein.
Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and
huntinjj, together with ffatherinsj roots and berries. I have
stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, which
it is to be hoped will be generally adopted, so that their
present precarious mode of living may give place to that
which will be substantial. They have many horses, but
not so numerous as their neighbors farther south.

East of these are the CcBur d'Alene Indians, whose num-
bers are about seven hundred, and who are characterized
by civility, honesty, and kindness. Their country is more
open than tlio Spokeins', and equally, if not better adapted
to agriculture.

INDIANS — A CHIEF'S ANECDOTE.

311

The country of the Flathcads is still farther east and
south-east, and extends to the Rocky ^Mountains. Tiiey
are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their persons, no-
ble, frank, and generous in tiicir dispositions, and have al-
ways shown a firm attachment to white men. They num-
ber about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering life.
For subsistence they follow the buifalo upon the head wa-
ters of Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the
head waters of the Missouri. They have become a small
tribe by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians, though
they themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disposition.
Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands,
and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civili-
zation, and in Christianity.

Their country is mountainous, but intersected with plea-
sant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie.
The mountains are cold, but in the vallevs the climate is
mild.

x\n anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which
illustrates their native chai'acter, and the propensity of In-
dians to imitation. He said the first white men he saw,
was when he was vounir. It was summer. He said,
" These are a new people, they look cold, their faces are
white and red ; go make a large fire, and I will ask them
to come and warm them." In a short time his people had
made a fire, and brouiflit new buffalo robes. The white
men came into his lodge and he wrapped them in the robes
and seated them by the fire that they might be warm.
The robes slipped olf ; he replaced them. Soon the white
men made signs to smoke their pipe. The chief thought
they asked for food, and brought them meat. The white
men gave him the pipe, and he and his people smoked,

) s'f i

312

INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES.

M'^-^
•

(f)

(iW

" and after this they loved smoke, and they loved the white
men, and said they were good."

Tlic Pondoras are so like tiie Flatheads in person, man-
ners, and character, that a particular description of them
may bo passed over. They number about two thousand
two hundred, and live on the north of Clarke's river, and
on a lake wiiich takes its name from the tribe. Their
country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put un-
der cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach
them agriculture and to impart to them a knowledge of those
things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros-
perous community. Their language is the same as the
Spokeins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a section
of country to the north of the Ponderas along M'Gillivray's
river, and are represented as an uncommonly interesting
people. They speak a language distinct from all the tribes
about them, open and sonorous, and free from gutturals,
which are common in the language of the surrounding tribes.
They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid and hon-
est, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their num-
bers, but probably they are not over a thousand.

There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries
are situated upon the waters of the north-east branch of the
Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in their
customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is un-
necessary to go into a separate and particular description
^"' 01 each. I will mention the names, locations, and number
of some of the principal tribes. North of the Cootanies arc
the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand.
South of these are the Lake Indians, so named from their
place of residence, which is about the A v ;-;''' Lakes. They
are about five hundred in number. At the south, and about

DESCEND THE RIVER.

3ia

Colvile, arc the Kettle Falls Indians, who number five hun-
dred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpauolish, one
thousand in number; and below these are the Shooshaps,
having a population of five hundred and seventy-five. At
the west and north-v/est, next in order are the Okanagans,
numbering one thousand fifty. To the north and west are
scvera) tribes, about whom I obtained no definite informa-
tion. Between Olcanagan and the Tjong Rapids are detach-
ments of Indians, who appear poor,and wanting in that man-
ly and active spirit, which characterizes the tribes above
named. South of the Long Raj)ids, to the confluence of
Lewis' river with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans, a more
active peojile, numbering about seven himdred. The whole
number of the above named Indians is thirty-two thousand
five hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a low esti-
mate, and in the number, the Fall and La Dalles Indians are
not included, nor many other numerous tribes residing at the
north and south of the Falls of the Columbia, whose num-
bers, I could not with certainty ascertain. We might more
than double this number, and probably still come below the
population of the upper country.

The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came
in safely, as I expected. After resting on the Sabbath,
we renewed, on Monday the Cth, our voyage down the
river, having rort Vancouver for our next destination.
We exchanged the bateau for a large canoe, retaining
the men who attended me from, Okanagan. Assisted by
the high water, we made rapid progress until three in tlie
afternoon, when a strong head wind compelled us to take
to the land for the remainder of the day, having gone
seventy-five miles. The Indians as usual came to us in
their friendly manner, oficring us salmon, and asking for

«Pi

314

RUN THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA.

tobacco, which they esteem more highly than either gold
or silver. They have been accustomed to traffic in this
commodity, until they expect it of every passing traveler.

The morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got un-
der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind
again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to
suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavor to cfFect
a landing on the north, we were at length, without the power
of controlling our canoe, and in much danger, driven across
to the opposite shore ; and here for the first time in all my
travels, I found it impossible to pitch my tent, such being
the strength of the wind, that it would have been carried
away. The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrap-
ping myself in my blankets and buffiilo robes, I laid me
down in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as
at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit from
the neighboring Indians.

The following day we were able to resume our journey,
and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday
looked so forbidding. A little caution on the part of my
experienced Frenchmen in regard to the numerous islands
and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety.
In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia,
which, in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, follow,
ed by raging rapids below. Bousheau, my steersman, pro-
posed to run the falls, saying that there was no danger in
full freshet, and that it would save a portage. We were
then passing a section of the river where the banks were
walled up with basalt ; and while I was revolving in my
mind the chances of safety, I had concluded, that when
we should come to the great basin below, I would be set
on shore ; but when we came to the basin, the water of

LA DALLES.

315

the river, ruslung from the mural slioros, formed impassa-
ble breakers on the right and on tiic 1 and onward
we must go, let consequences be what they would. We
kept near the middle of the river, which was free from
breakers, though not from high surges. Soon, with ama-
zing velocity, we were over tiie cataract of the mighty wa-
ters, and made our way into a bay at tlie head of the first
portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water from
those stupendous mountains above, was so great, that the
narrow channel of the La Dalles, studded with basaltic
islands, so obstructed the passage of the river, that the falls
were almost lost in the depth.

Such were the eddies and surging of the water among

the rocky islands in the narrow broken channel of the La

Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe

was so large that twenty Indians were not too many to

carry it safely. Their mode of carrying is to invert it upon

their heads and shoulders, and then it is with ditliculty and

danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines. When

we came to the last portage, the Indians were not willing

to take hold again unless we would pay them in powder

and balls ; and although their demands were reasonable,

yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and they

would not perform the labor without the required articles. I

engaged Sopelay, and another influential chief, to induce

their men to perform the labor of making this last portage,

and promised tliat I would send them the demand from

Fort Vancouver, and for their security I would give them a

talking paper. They stated to their people my proposal, and

were about to succeed, when TilkT, the first chief, who had

become familiar with an American trader, laughed at their

credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people, that he

i \'y-

316

DANGKROUS WIIIIILI'OOL.

had seen mo at the fort, and that ho lieard mo toaeh the In-
dians <vood things, and did not f)oliev(' I would deceive thoni.
He prevailed, and the men took hold of the work ; and jn
four liours from passing the falls we wore heyond the raging
water, where wo made our morning repast upon very fmo
salmon.

Our passage during tlic remaind(M- of the day was pleas-
ant; we passed Caj)e Horn without difliculty, and landed for
the night twelve miles ahove the ('ascades. In this high
state of the water, very few of the trees of the submerged
forest were to be seen.

On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades by
hirinjj Indians to conhlle the canoe down them, exclusive of
one short portage, the distance of two miles to the great
basin, or rather the great wiiirlpool below. This labor is
attended with some danger, and cases, though not numerous,
have occurred of the loss of lives and property. As I walk-
ed along the shores, and over precipices, I saw the wrecks
of several canoes and bhtaux strewed upon the rocks. Wc
embarked upon the great basin, at the lower part of vvliich
wc passed into a rapid, where the main current took a dia-
gonal course from the north tcAvards the south shore. On
both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as
the only course of safety, we took the middle. We had not
proceeded far before a largo whirlpool, with a deep, devour-
ing vortex formed almost directly before us, and as wc were
going forward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its
circling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to
the right. " O don't speak here," was his reply. As we
approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller
eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its waters I'olling
out from the centre, and all our strength was required to

A FIELD FOR NATURALU

the lu-

vo tluMU.

; and in
\o. rauinir
very i\\\('

as ploas-
aiicU'd for
this liijili
ibnicrged

cades by
elusive of

the fifrcal
is labor is
unnerous,
^s I walk-
lie wrecks
icks. We
t of which
ook a dia-
lore. On
ers, and as
Ve had not
p, devour-
s wc were
to avoid its

a little to
y. As we
of smaller
ers roll in fir
equired to

resist thcni, lest we slio'ild be thrown upon the breakers
Wo passed with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short ti/n-
Avere uj)on the smooth surface of the tide waters below.

The sensations excited in descending these Cascades are
of that peculiar character, which are best understood by ex-
perience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened tlmn
it subsides before the power and ma;^'nificence of the rolling
surges, the circlinii vortices, and the roaring breakers. Let
those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind, need
arousing, try the navigation of the Columbia in high water,
and their powers will be invigorated for almost any future
enterprise. Such is tlie fascinating power, I had almost said
magic of these scenes, that those who are accustomed to be
employed upon these waters, though far away from home
and kindred, become attached to this mode of life, and are
reluctant to abandon it for any other. Each time the scene-
ry of these interesting Cascades is beheld, new wonders
unfold themselves. Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken
fall of one hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison
with the superior style of nature's works here. Nor are
these things created merely to attract our momentary admi-
ration. Science in very many of its departments, may find
subjects for investigation.

While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the for-
est, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them with his
eye as they dart from bough to bough ; his attention is ar-
rested by the noble and majestic white headed eagle, as he
takes his favorite perch upon the loftiest heights of some
needle-pointed rock, or the summit of some leafless tree, or
as he darts from thence upon his prey ; or his attention may
be arrested by the daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent up-
on the finny tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in

mmmdm

318

A FIKM) FOR NATUHAMSTS.

my view. A lisli-luiwk sci/od u|ioii a fish of such mugni-
tilde, that the contest (or a loiiif time was doubt I'lil, as the
sphishin^ wafer indicated, which should exehaii«;e its native
element. The resistance was so ^rcat, that a disengage,
ment was deemed the l)est policy.

Here also the botanist, while he (orliears to ascend the
lofty mountains, which for him \)\'( sent an aspect of too
much dreariness, may retire into the narrow receding val-
leys, or wind his way over sunny hills in search of new
genera of plants, or at least new species, wih which to im-
mortalize his name, and add to the stores of his favorite
science.

The geologist, while he admires the stupendous monu-
ments of volcanic operations before him, may also find
much to interest him in examining more minute formations.
Along the rugged shores are scattered specimens of calcc-
dony, jasper, agate and cornelian. He may examine the
cellules of the immense masses of amygdaloid ; the colum-
nar basalt, and the mountains shooting up their denticulated
forms and needle-points. His attention will be drawn to the
examination of the lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and he will
be interested in finding many dendrolites. When he looks
at the deep channel through which the Columbia river finds
its onward way to the Pacific ocean, if he doubts the agen-
cy of God in forming the courses of the rivers, he may in-
dulge his imagination in computing how long it has taken
this river to wear down the immensely hard basalt a thou-
sand feet ; and having ascertained how long it takes to
wear any given depth, he may then make his mathematical
conclusions how long the process has been going on. But if
he is a Christian philosopher, while he admits second caus-
es, he may look up to the great first Cause, and admire and

AHUIVAL AT Till: FORT.

ni9

, iis thr
s iititivo

'lllll tllC

■t of too
iiif^ val-

of new
ih to ini-

i'avoiitc

IS monu-
ulso find
rmations.
of calcc-
minc the
le colum-
iticulatcd
iwn to the
id he will
I he looks
iver finds
the agen-
B may in-
has taken
,lt a thou-
: takes to
liematical
1. But if
ond caus-
Imire and

ailorc; and not regarding baseless theories, may exclaim,
" How wonderful lire thy works, in wisdom hast thou made
them all."

As we passed (nit of the mountain country alujut the Cas-
cades, W(^ found tht> wide valley below so inundated, as to
pres(HU the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safely
at the fort, lound niv friends W(dl, and exchanyed cordial

congratulations.

Sahhath, .lune lith, 1 preatdied to the people of tli(^ fort,
and in the evening had a third service, in whicdi as hereto,
fore, an opportunity was given to those present, to j)ropose
questions on any subject of religion about wiiich they wished
information. 1 was particularly gratified to find, that du-
ring my absence, publi(; worship had been maintained, and
an etlbrt had been made to bring tli(> rrcnch Caiuidians to
attend upon religious instruction. They arc assembled
twice on the Sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser-
mon in French, arc reud to them by Dr. MeLaughlin.

I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the
promised powder and balls, by Capt. I)lack,a gentleman of
the Company, who in a few days was to leave Vancouver
for his station n(.)rth of Fort Okanagan.

On tha 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat
TJcaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the confluence
of the western branch of the Multnomah; up this river into
the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the
Multnomah, and through it into the Columbia, and back to
the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the annual
tVeshet, and presented the ap[)earance of an immense bay,
extending far into the couniry. The day was pleasant and
our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the
Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections upon

1 i !,

< I

; 1

III

mt'^^

320

NAVIGABLE WATERS.

the probable changes which would take place in these re-
mote regions, in a very few years. It was wholly an un-
thought of thing when I first contemplated this enterprise,
that I should find here this forerunner of conmierce and bu-
siness. Tiie gayety which prevailed was often suspended,
while we conversed of coming days, when with civilized
men, all the rapid improvements in the arts of life, should
be introduced over this new world, and wiien cities and vil-
lages shall spring up on the west, as they are springing up
on the east of the great mountains, and a new empire be
added to the kingdoms of the earth.

The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Ore-
gon Territory, and this is navigable for ships but one hun-
dred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it is the only
one which afifords a harbor for large ships on the coast, from
California to the 49* of north latitude. For bateaux and
various other light craft, the Columbia and its branches are
navicrable a thousand miles. The internal naviijation could
not be mucli improved, unless at great expense, by canals
around the rapids and falls, which are so numerous that
ascending the river is now difiicult. Still a considerable
interior trade is carried on by ineans of these waters, and
the ingermity of men on the west, when it shall be mor(>
extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on the east,
for greatly improving the intercourse of remote and dilFer-
ent portions of this territory.

■•p

(JEOLOGV.

321

CHAPTER XXIII.

Geology.

Having remarked on the features of the country through
which I passed, as I proceeded, I shall now give a more
connected and summary view of facts, the result of my ob-
servations in relation to the geology of that hitherto unex-
plored region. In remarking, however, on the observed
facts, it cannot be expected that I should be able to give a
complete view of the geology of so extensive a territory; it
being greater than the whole of the United States east of
the Alleghany Mountains. The complexity, too, must be
considered, of plainly marked phenomena, resulting from
long continued igneous action, where both ancient and com-
paratively recent products arc so blended, that time and
much experience alone can resolve appearances, at first
view inexplicable. Let the reader also add to this the cir-
cumstances under which the author was compelled to note
the data of his conclusions. He regrets that in iiis brief
stay in the country, where many years are requisite fully
to investigate all its interesting phenomena, and in a field
so rich, he could make but few measurements, and only
judge in most cases by approximate modes. As to the strict
scientific accuracy of his statements, he deems it no more
than just to say, that while he doubts not that the facts he
details are worthy the attention of scientific men, and are
correct in re, so that perfect reliance may be placed on

them, yet he feels iiimself to have wanted that almost intu-

28*

^Ai

1 1
t

tti

•mm

GEOLOGY,

itive knowledge, which ho alone possesses who has long
been a field-laborer.

With these considerations the author presents the result
of his observations, hoping the reader may find much that
is valuable respecting these regions of the setting sun, re-
plete as they are with interest, arising from grandeur both
of scenery, and of developments of the modes and eflects ol'
the operations of the great geological agents ; especially of
that element, which in time past has wrought such chan-
ges, and is yet gradually and more unperceivcdly produ-
cing them ; where it has played all its frantic freaks, and
then quietly left this spot with so few superimposed materi-
als, that well developed phenomena may be leisurely ex-
amined.

My design is first to give a general view of the rocks of
Oregon — then state a few facts in the form of remarks or
descriptions — and then add a brief catalogue of minerals
found in this Territory.

After leaving the great secondary valley of the Missis-
sippi, near the Black Hills, which are a range of lesser
mountains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the geologist be-
gins to find rocks of the Carboniferous Group, obscurely
manifest beneath the deep soil, and anthracite coal in loose
fragments on the banks of streams running into the Platte.
Among and beyond the Black Hills, the carboniferous strata
are clearly seen, the coal " cropping out" and presenting
precisely the same features as did the Wilksbarre beds in
Pennsylvania, when I saw them, before they were worked.
Here, for several days, we rode ovc rocks, interspersed
now and then with anthracite, and having marks of the
presence of iron, as is usual in regular coal deposits.

Passing this, tlie geologiGt i:?\t reaches another group,

GEOLOGY.

323

IS long

3 result
ch thai
sun, re-
ur both
fleets of
Mally of
h ehan-
r produ-
iks, ami
materi-
vely ex-

rocks of
narks or
minerals

3 Missis-
of lesser
logist be-
ibscureh
1 in loose
le Platte,
ous strata
resentiufi;
3 beds iu
) worked,
crspersed
ks of the
dts.
er group,

either the upper secondary, or more recent rocks, lying at
the foot of the Rocky Mountains. I was inclined to believe,
from the fact that I was apparently geologically rising, as
well as really ascending above the level of the ocean, that
they were the latter. Red Shale, or sandstone, I found in
what are termed the Red Butcs. Perhaps this is New Red
Sandstone.

Reaching the Rocky Mountains, which are a continuation
of the Andes, depressed in Mexico, Granite becomes abun-
dant, and other primary rocks, extending to an unknown dis-
tance north and south, and more than a hundred miles east
and west. This section, mostly covered with perpetual
snow, ailbrds ample space for the study of glacial geologi-
cal action, a subject now eliciting much attention. The
valley through which we passed remarkably indicates the
overruling hand of Providence, in providing an easy pass,
where no serious obstacle presents itself to the construction
of a rail-road. This and other valleys would undoubtedly,
with facilities for observation, give equal opportunities to
discover the formation of this vast chain, as has been done
in regard to the great rocky ranges of the Eastern Con-
tinent.

Advancing westward, and emerging from the Rocky
jMountains, there is found innnediately at their base Secon-
dary Rocks ; but as we approach the borders of one of the
great volcanic furnaces of the world, they are much bro-
ken and tilted up, presenting some singular phenomena
which I have mentioned in the journal, such as the forma-
tion of narrow ridges with the strata at dilTerent angles. In
some places these dyke-like ridges are nearly regular in
size and distance, as though cracked by an upheaving force,
and the fissures filled afterwards with earth ; and in other

■■■ M
,:; J' I

it '

t'ii

^1:

;fT

824

GEOLOGY.

ill

places existing in wedge- form masses, interspersed between
otiier rocks, and iiaving other varieties of dislocation. The
lithological character of the tract, over which we rode for
two days, corresponds with that of the new red sandstone
of the valley of the Connecticut. There are deposits both
of the red and slaty colored strata — and their depth seems
to bo quite great, as is evinced by bluffs. But, as I observed
no organic remains, my inclination to believe that those
rocks are the new red sandstone, is founded only on their
mineral character, and the fact, a very important one, that
they appear directly to underlay the saliferous rocks, or to
lie immediately above them. Should these rocks, which
are quite extensive, prove to be new red sandstone, it adds
no little to the interest of the geology of a country so rich
in other respects. Perhaps, as red rocks of the same kind
lie on each side of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proved
hereafter, that the range was elevated through a deposit of
shale or new red sandstone.

Directly after leaving the red sandstone, and passing a
belt of volcanic operations, which also are found among the
red and slaty rocks just described, (as will be seen by ref-
erence to the Trois Tctons, the Butes, and other conical
mountains, as exhibited on the map.) Saliferous Rocks
are seen. Here is Native Salt, Chloride of Sodium,
and red, green, brown, and white strata of indurated
marl, agreeing in character with the geological features
of the Bochnia and Wieliezka mines of Poland. These
rocks also occupy quite a tract of country, as we were
several days in passing them, and they seemed to reacli
both north and south of the locality of rock salt, as is
proved by the existence of the great Salt Lake at the
south ; and travelers assort that native rock salt is found

GEOLOGY.

325

to the north, and especially far to the south, near the
Rocky Mountain range.*

We have now arrived at Oregon proper, and find it a vast
amphitheatre of volcanic operations, where- are exhibited in
unexcelled magnificence, variety and distinctness, the pro-
ductions of several periods.

The Greenstone, found in connexion with the new red
sandstone and saline rocks, undoubtedly belongs to the
same period as tiiat of other countries.

The Columnar Basalt, corresponding as it does with other
similar eruptions in the eastern world, is probably cotempo-
raneous with them. The same identity of time may be
traced in regard to the trachyte, obsidian, clinkstone or
phonolite, and other products, after allowing for ditferenco
of circumstances of pressure, and rapidity of refrigeration.
Recent eruptions also have taken place.

The traces of igneous action, conmiencing near the
Rocky Mountains, or mountains adjacent to them, in the sec-
ondary rocks, are evinced by the disturbed state of these
rocks, as already described, and grow more and more evi-
dent until almost the whole region exhibits volcanic pro-
ducts. In other places, the Primary of the Rocky Moun-
tains, or mountains west of this range, first begins to be
cracked and injected with dykes, then I'arther west termi-
nates in the vast volcanic field of upper and lower Oregon.

It is in vain to attempt fully to descril)e the volcanic op-
erations here presented. Mountains of amygdaloid, the
cavities of which are mostly vacant ; volcanic conglomer-
ate, detritus, columnar basalt, and disintegrated lava, every
where abound, together with other less frequent produc-

r'll

* See Ures' Geology, page 373, and Professor Rogers' Report to th<
British Geological Association.

•i-^;,l

326

GEOLOGY.

tions ; obsidian, clinkstone, pitclistone, and minerals found
in the cavities of uniytrdaloid. The topsof hills and moun-
tains are sometimes spread out into horizontal plains, others
terminate in conical peaks or are rounded like domes.
Escarpments are frequently presented like that in the plate
heading this chapter. Regular craters, presenting them-
selves in the Ibrm of cones and concave depressions, are
often found in plains, or capping the summits of mountains;
most of them, however, are more or less obscured by the
lapse of time, but sti!' as marked as the extinct craters of
the Sandwich Islands. The marked volcanic agency, man-
ifesting itself in these and similar products, and completely
occupying most of the country which we have termed upper
and lower Oregon, continues to be evident until lost in the
waters of the Pacific. In some places the Primary rocks
seem ajrain to be found on the western coast. Near the
mouth of the Columbia I noticed a few Tertiary rocks lying
in silu, and obtained a few shells belonging to this deposit.
Whetiier there is on the North West Coast a regular Terti-
ary basin, partly on shore, and the rest under the ocean,
remains to be determined. Queen Charlottes island on
the north is, at least in part, primary. Primary rocks
rise in various parts of the country, and are like islands
in the vast volcanic field. Such are the Salmon river
mountains, and the granite near the Spokein river, and
other places.

Wc have thus glanced at the rocks of Oregon as we pass
westward. In relation to their extent in a northerly and
southerly direction, I am unable to say much. Tiiere is
evidence that igneous action has extended from Queen
Charlottes island to California. Of the extent of the Salif-
erous rocks, I have remarked. That they extend from north

GEOLOGY,

327

Is found
d moun-
is, others
! domes,
the plate
)<r them-
lions, are
(untains ;
d l)y the
raters of
icy, man-
mi pi ctely
led upper
ist in the
iry rocks
Near the
cks lying
s deposit.
lar Tcrti-
10 ocean,
island on
iry rocks
:c islands
non river
iver, and

s wo pass
licrly and
There is
m Queen
'the Sal if-
from north

of the locality where I found native salt, south into Mexico,
appears quite certain.

Having remarked thus much in general terms, I will
proceed to give a few facts without much order, somo, if
not all of which, migiit have h .'cn included in my descrip-
tion of the ffreat changes in the rocks.

The plate at the head of this chapter demands a more
definite explanation than has been given in former editions.
It substantially describes a frequent eicarpment of volcanic
rocks, such as is found in nearly every part of Oregon.

The place designed to be represented by it is below the
junction of the Cooscootske with the Lewis river. With
some variations it is applicable to a mural escarpment sev-
eral miles below the Cascades on the Columbia. Similar
mural escarpments are found in the Spokein country, and at
the Grand Coulc or ancient bed of the Columbia. The
needle-points on the right of the plate are found most dis-
tinctly marked just below the Cascades, though they occur
at numerous other places. Indeed this is not an unfre-
quent form of basalt west of the Rocky Mountains.

The first stratum marked in the plate above what is intend-
ed for the shore of the river, is irregular massive amygda-
loid. In some localities similar to that from which the plate
is taken, there is found a conglomerate underlaying this
strata. The next or second stratum of the plate, is volcanic
breccia or conglomerate, composed of detritus, and angular
fragments mixed with earthy matter, and is perhaps what
some call volcanic tufa. This brecciated layer is more or
less hard and compact, varying iiowever very much in dif-
ferent localities, and is in all cases only a few feet thick.
The third stratum is columnar basalt, regularly crystalized
n pentagons about two feet in diameter. In other place.s

i'l

I IW B l*" *^';;

328

GEOLOGY.

they vary in size from one to four or more feet in diameter.
It is in all the localities where I noticed it, closely jointed,
with the convex surface upwards, like the basalt of the (tI-
ants Causeway. The fourth is a brecciated layer. The
fifth is on (he left, columnar basalt, and on the right, amygda-
loid in juxtaposition with the basalt. The sixth is a brec-
ciated layer. The seventh and uppermost is a semi-crys-
talizcd basalt on the left, and needle-pointed basalt on the
right. The semi-cryslalized basalt very nearly resembles
the Palisades on the Hudson river, and the greenstone of
East and West Rocks at New Haven, and the more distinct
crystals found in Mt. Tom and Mt. Holyoke. For the latter
see Hitchcock's Geo. 1st ed. page 73.

In a description of bluffs and banks of rivers, where
there are mural escarpments similar to that from which tlie
plate is taken, I have numbered from ten to twenty strata of
amygdaloid, basalt, and brecciated layers, which appear to
have been thrown up in difterent periods, through craters,
fissures or chasms, rising in succession one above another.
In some locations the lowest formation is pudding stone; on
this amygdaloid, varvintr in thickness from a few feet to
twenty or thirty ; and then above this a stratum of angular
fragments of basalt and amygdaloid, frequently intermixed
with lava, which I have termed the brecciated layer. This
strata generally appears to have been exposed for a period
to atmospheric agencies, until in some degree decomposed,
and upon this the alternating strata as described above, in-
dicating so many different eruptions; the whole series rising
from fifty to several hundred feet. The brecciated layers
are only a few feet in depth, and appear to have been for a
long period the surface, after which a new eruption has
again overspread the whole. In one section of the higk

t in diameter,
osely jointed,
alt of the Gi-
layer. Tiie
gilt, amygda-
xtli is a brec-
1 a semi-crys-
basalt on the
rly resembles
greenstone of
more distinct
For the latter

ivers, where
Dm which the
enty strata of
ich appear to
3ugh craters,
jove another,
ng stone ; on
a few feet to
m of angular
y intermixed
layer. This

for a period

decomposed,
id above, in-

series rising
3iated layers
'e been for a
sruption has

of the higK

•■\]i

•i^

■:!il

iS^l^l

C.EOLOttY,

^29

walls of the Grand Coiilc, fur up the sides, inrstoad of the
breccia is presented a deptii of yellow earth of six or eight
feet, and upon this several strata of basalt and amygdaloid,
as above described, in like manner exhibiting proof that this
section for a long time constituted tlio surface. Thus it
appears that the internal fires liave had long intervals of re-
pose, and then have again sent forth their volcanic sub-
stances. The probability is, that they wore thus in opera-
tion for centuries, but with a few exceptions, have ceased
for centuries past, so that time has been given for atmos-
pheric agencies to decompose the volcanic productions, suf-
ficiently to form a soil covering most parts of the country.
The enquiry naturally arises, whether it may not be on ac-
count of the great internal fires of this country, that the
temperature is so much warmer on the west side of the
mountains than on the east ; for it is an interesting fact, that
the eastern side of North America, in given parallels of
latitude, is the coldest, while the western in the same par-
allels, is the warmest part of the world. And may not this
arise from the comparative recency, as well as extent and
depth of the volcanic operations which have pervaded this
whole region of the setting sun.* The length of time, which
immense masses of lava and other volcanic matter retain
heat, is well known, and needs no remark. May not the
climate thus be affected in Oregon ?

Among other localities of columnar basalt, the columns

* By reference to the annexed meteorological table it will be seen,
from observations taken between the 45lh and 46lh degrees of north
latitude, that in th'; winter of 1835 — 6, the greatest cold was but 10°
below the freezing point, and this for three mornings only — and du-
ring the month oi" March there were but two mornings in which there
was any frost.

i-:

i!
Ill

ii:

■I !'i;

>:'

: ^ !i

■•1

] j

III!

■f\^'^

■I- ■

1
■

1
1 '

380

GEOLOGY.

of vvliicli arc regular crystalizcd pentagons, a distinguislicd
one is on the high hmd.s dividing the waters of the Snake
and Spokein rivers. The formations of this locality have
many interesting characteristics, as deserihed on page 200.
Another below the Cascades of the Coluinl)ia, where the
regular pentagonal columns wall uj) the north side for the
distance of half a mile. Here arc also found all the va-
rieties of volcanic productions; — volcanic peaks, as diver-
sified in their forms as they are numerous, being conical,
denticulated, and needle-pointed ; varying in magnitudes,
and rising one above another from ten feet to fifteen hun-
dred feet. These occur almost entirely upon the south
side. There are also numerous islands of basalt in the
Columbia river and its branches, elevated often much
above high freshet water. These are numerous in the La
Dalles, and in the ancient bed of the Columbia, or Grand
Ccule. These islands are the same in form and substance
as the dykes which exist in various parts of the country.
There is something similar to these Needles in what I
have termed the Pillars, where one or two such needles
occur alone, and rise some hundred feet. They are basalt,
and so hard and comparatively smooth, that I can account
in no other way for their production, than that they are
dykes that have been injected into soit rock, or soil, which
has since been removed by other agencies. The most re-
markable instance of this is the PillarRock at the lower
part of the rapids, below the Cascades, at the head of the
tide water of the Columbia. It is about five hundred feet
high ; and is perpendicular on the river side, and nearly
so on the other sides ; and is wholly isolated upon a nar-
row strip of bottom land, with a small base, and its appear-

GEOLOGY.

331

;uisho(i
iSiuikc
y have
ro 200.
vro the
for the
th(^ va-
s diver-
conical,
nitudes,
en hun-
ic south
t in the
n much
1 the La
r Grand
ubstance
country,
what I
1 needles
'e basalt,
I account
they are
fil, which
most rc-
he lower
id of the
id red feet
id nearly
n a nar-
s appear-

ance resembles a vast monument. Another such needle is
found in the river near the mouth of the Columbia, and
standinjr alone makes a vory conspicuous object.

Another result of volcanic agency is seen in the Primary
rocks, which pn cracks or fissures, through which gaseous
products have esirapcd, without forming a crater, and indeed
without ejecting any igneous solid matter. One locality of
this kind presents a result somewiiat peculiar. It is on ele-
vated land near the Spokein river. Hero are hundreds of
regular cones, varying from a few feet in diameter and
height, to a hundrtd Oi more in diameter at their base, and
fifty or sixty feet high. They are made up of angular
fragments of granite, fronj an inch to six or eight inches in
size, and stand on a sandy plain now covered with yellow
pine, apparently disturbed only at the places where these
cones have broken through it. At a short distance south
was granite in situ. Beside these cones was a dyke visible
a hundred rods or more, the only other evidence of a dis-
turbing force. These piles of fragments seem to have been
mado by the escape of steam or gas, for they ap[)ear as if
smoked by a fire from v/ithin the cones. Tlie Salmon river
mountains allbnl another example similar to this. An ir-
regular circular space of a hundred acres or more is cov-
ered with immense quantities of granite broken into cubical
and angular fragments, as though prepared for Macadami-
zing the future turnpikes of Oregon.

Tliese mountains, though mere islands of mica slate and
granite in the great volcanic field, are quite extensive, and
in addition to the breaking up of the granite by igneous
forces, are also perforated by vents or chimneys, through
which lava lias escaped. One of the highest points of the
j)iountains which lay in my route, was one of these. It ia

!:i!

III
111

i Id

t'i

f'j

:: Hi

332

GEOLOGY.

a granite mountain with tlie top capped by a volcanic cone,
rising like an immense pyramid. The passage in some
places of granite into basalt, is easily traced, and the first
igneous appearance is not a change of the structure, but
multiplied fractures increase, until you find the granite bro-
ken into large iVagments, and these diminishing in size, until
they disappear in the distinct characteristics of volcanic
agency, in whicli it is changed into a substance resembling
trachyte ; if it has not become trachyte itself, while in situ.
Smaller sections of granite are scattered over the country
in forms of less dimensions, protruding from the earth ; but
these are of somewhat rare occurrence.

We have said that recent igneous action has taken place.
A well authenticated instance occurred in Aujjust 1831.
There was at this time at Fort Vancouver and vicinity, an
uncommonly dark day which was thought to have been
caused by an eruption of a volcano. The whole day was
nearly as dark as night, except a slight red, lurid appear-
ance, which was perceptible aatil near night. Lighted can-
dles were necessary through the day. The atmosphere was
filled with ashes which were very light, like the white ashes
of wood ; all having the appearance of being produced by
great fires, and yet none were known to have been in any
part of the whole region around. The day was perfectly
calm, without any wind. For a few days after, the fires
out of doors were noticed to burn with a bluish flame, as
though mixed with sulphur. There were no earthquakes.
By observations which were made after the atmosphere be-
came clear, it was thought the pure, white, perpetual snow
upon Mount St. Helens was discolored, presenting a brown
appearance, and therefore it was concluded, that there had
been upon it a slight eruption. The Indians say they have

GEOLOGY.

333

seen fires in the chasms of Mount Hood. Tilkl, the first
chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of more than
ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen fires in the fis-
sures of rocks in the last named mountain.*

Though I have improved every opportunity which has
been presented to make observations, and have also made
many enquiries of men who have traveled extensively and
for a long time in different parts of this country, some of
whom are men of science, yet no evidence of fossil remains
have been noticed, with the exception of a very few speci-
mens, 1 saw a small shell, a TMrnZe^^a, which was found in
a mountain south of Mount Hood, in theCallapooa country.
Also a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore
of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve shells,
embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary formation.
The largest specimens which I took, measure, longitudinal-
ly, four and a half inches from the hinge, and transversely,
five. They are very perfect, beautifully scalloped, and
have all the lustre of living shells.

Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, is
walled up on its sides and studded with islands of basaltic
rocks, rising in perpendicular height from twenty to four
hundred feet ; the question forces itself upon the mind, what
agency formed the channel of the Columbia and other rivers
flowing through ridges and mountains of hard basalt? Un-
doubtedly the action of water has worn the rock very con-
siderably and effected changes, but perhaps by no principle
of its action can it be supposed, that it has produced so long
and so deep a channel, as the one through which the river

* Since the publication of the above in olhcr editions, I have been
credibly informed that lava was ejected at that time from Mount St.
Helens.

29*

,1 ii

ili-

J^^

(

334

GEOLOGY.

flows, and through such solid rock formations, differing but
little from iron in hardness. That the channels of rivers
owe their existence to other causes than the action of water,
is no new idea. Indeed very many are now described as
formed otherwise. In relation to the channels of the Con-
necticut and its branches, see Prof. Hitchcock's Geo. page
167, 1st edit. While I believe that Providence operates by
means, yet I doubt not there are phenomena which are, and
ever may remain unresolved. While conversing in relation
to the channel of the Columbia with some literary gentle-
men who had frequently passed up and down this river, after
several theories were proposed, none of which could bear
the test even of probability, one of them remarked, he had
been reminded of his boyish sports, when he had dammed
up water, and then with his finger drawn a channel through
the sand for the water to run ; so it seemed to him that God
had drawn a channel for the Columbia.

If we do not keep in view the overruling hand of God as
a landmark in our investigations, but look to nature, at
work in her great laboratory, the earth, as our only guide
to teach us precisely how the earth was formed, we shall,
at least, be in danger af wandering into mazes from which
we shall not be able to extricate ourselves.

The condition of the country on the western side of the
Rocky Mountains, diflering as it does in the species of its
animals, birds, and plants, from that of the eastern side,
gives us a view which shows what may be the truth in re-
lation to regions of the earth now buried, and which per-
haps are regarded as belonging to different Periods, though
in fact contemporaneous. Yet in all such cases marks of iso-
chronism, or the want of it, doubtless could be found, and
with proper care would convince the experienced geologist

GEOLOGY.

335

of their diversity or identity in time. Compare the two sides
of North America as they now are, and notice tlie difference
which exists in their animals and productions. Let now the
whole of the northern part of this continent bo submerged,
and after a long time be again elevated to its present position,
and let future generations examine its fossil remains, and by
the rules very generally laid down, would they not conclude
that the section on the east side, and that on the west side of
the mountains, indicate two different periods of submersion,
and that there was a long intermediate period of tranquility
between them ? Would not the different genera and species
of vegetables and animals lead to this conclusion? Would
they not, from the evident difference of temperature of cli-
mate in the same latitudes on the east and on the west, con-
elude, if there was not a careful search maJe for other
marks to show disparity or identity of time, that the west-
ern section was submerged, at a period when the earth
was much warmer than at a period when the eastern section
was submerged ? This would be a rational and legitimate
conclusion from the rule, that in strata of the same class,
dissimilar organic remains belong to a different period of
time, and were deposited under a diflerent condition of the
globe. And the gigantic balsam firs, found in the west and
not found in the east, would as clearly prove a different cli-
mate in the same latitude, and therefore a different period
of submersion, as the gigantic ferns prove a different tem-
perature of the earth, and of course a different period of
time, in which they were deposited.

On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, measuring
from five to ciirht feet in diameter, and between one and two
Imndred feet In height, would be found so numerous as to
constitute whole forests. Also the alder of various diame-

' > . ' ,

,i !'

I *ii.ilii ■> A <l II -■» .

ij'

it ilil

■ h

336

GEOLOGY.

tcrs, from the small to those of two feet, and proportionably
tall ; and the rush varying from four to ten feet long, and
proportionably largo. While the fir, the alder, and rush,
would be found on the east side, they would be mere dwarfs
in comparison with those on the west, and also very sparse.
And many genera of trees and plants would be found on
the one side, which would not be found on the other. On
the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar maple,
elm, and many other kinds of trees. And of animals, there
would not be found any of the present fossils of the east, nor
the ox, the ass, the swine, nor common sheep — the buffalo
would be found east and in the mountains, but hardly be-
yond. To what strange conclusions, without great care
and close examination, should we come, if such data simply
were received ! If such is now the difference of vegeta-
bles and animals, between the country on the east, and the
country on the west of our continent, and in the same lati-
tude, may not mistakes be made in regard to different for-
mations, and different periods of time in which they have
taken place. Especially when periods are so remote, and
the minute exploration of the earth confined to so small
limits.

Far the greatest part of the soil of Oregon is formed from
decomposed lava and other like substances, reduced by at-
mospheric agencies, which forms a fine rich black mold.
Some parts, however, are in a different condition ; such as
the great desert of the Shoshones or Snake country, which
lies between two ranges of mountains, and extends three
hundred or more miles in a southeasterly direction, with
an average width of about one hundred miles. This desert,
occupying as it does so many square miles, is to a great
extent covered with scoria and other volcanic matter, which.

GEOLOGY.

337

from their nature renders it a barren region. Other tracts
of country are argillaceous. In several localities, escarp-
ments of clay, diversified in structure, are presented. The
layers are from a few inches, to twenty feet in thickness.
Their colors are dusky red, brown, blue, green, yellow,
and in some instances pure white, and not unfrequently
more or less indurated. Still, other tracts are calcaneus ;
and some parts, especially near the Rocky Mountains, are
covered with a silicious sand, mixed with volcanic detritus;
while few, and only few parts of the country afford vegeta-
ble mold.

By reference to the map between Okanagan and Walla
Walla, the dotted line, as will be seen, describes the Grand
Coulc. By some cause the Columbia has been turned from
its ancient bed, and made to take a new and more circui-
tous course. The old channel has islands rising above what
was once the level of the water ; and as previously men-
tioned, high mural escarpments are found on its sides.

Another fact worthy to be mentioned, is the subsidence
on the Columbia. It is twenty or more miles long, and
about a mile wide. See page 141.

What I suppose to be another subsidence occurs on the
summit level which divides the waters of the Snake and
Spokein rivers. See page 290.

Rivers are found which disappear and again reappear
from under volcanic products, which is no new phenomena
in other volcanic countries. Two such rivers are put down
on the map south of Henry's Fork.

Limestone does not abound here ; indeed it is questiona-
ble whether it exists except in very detached and small
quantities. One location of magnesian limestone, I observ-
ed in the neighborhood of the Sulphur Spring, which I have

.Ji' mri

338

GEOLOGY.

already described. The lime used at Fort Vancouver, is
made of rock coral, imported for ballast in vessels return-
ing from the Sandwich Islands. In the vicinity of the Sul-
phur Spring was a quantity, though not very extensive, of
gypsum. The only marble I noticed was a mountain situ-
ated a short distance below the confluence of the Spokein
with the Columbia. In parts which I examined, I discover-
ed it to be saccharine white, and variegated blue. A spe-
cimen of the first I have preserved. Situated as it is on a
navigable river, it will most probably become in time a
source of wealth.

In the region of Pierre's Hole, and still farther west, there
is clinkstone of marked and distinctive character, in great
abundance, and in the same vicinity obsidian in large quan-
tities. From the dark color of this, and also of basalt gen-
erally, I detected the presence of augite. Obsidian is found
in very many places throughout the country, and towards
the ocean, in small quantities, it is a resinous white.

Lava is abundant in many places, in all the varieties of
color in which it is usually found, sometimes dusky red,
yellowish, gray, and black, of diflerent degrees of hardness
and gravity, some being compact, some cellular, and often
so light as to float upon water. Trachyte is also found
among the varieties of lava.

Most of the varieties of the precious stones, such as cal-
cedony, agate, jasper, and cornelian, are found upon the
shores of the Columbia, Willamette, and the large branches
of these rivers. While they vary in size, forms, and colors,
many of them are very pure and beautiful, and might bo
improved to great brilliancy in the hands of the artist. Por-
phyry of different textures and quality is frequently met witii,
some of which resembles the precious stones in fineness.

GEOLOGY.

339

I saw no anthracite coal after leaving the region of the
Black Hills on the east of the mountains; bituminous coal,
of which I saw a quantity, is obtained from a locality near
Pugets Sound, and brought for use to Fort Vancouver.

It is an interesting fact that Mineral Rock Salt exists in
its native state, in a section of mountains on the south side
of the Salmon river, before entering the Salmon river moun-
tains. ^* crops out from the side of a mountain, a little
'' /Ve I. Hase. I saw the r •:•" '\n'i examined specimens of
it, and took of it for future usi«. It is pure and white, and
contains less of the water of crystalization than common
salt. Tlie geological formations in the immediate vicinity,
so nearly resemble those described in the neighborhood of
the mineral salt mines of Poland, as to induce the belief that
it exists in great abundance. It was peculiarly grateful to
me in the circumstances in which I was placed, and the best
testimony I can give to the quality is, that I found it very
useful while compelled to subsist on game.

Salt is also found in a crystalized state upon the shores of
the great Salt Lake, the waters of which are so strongly
impregnated, that large quantities are deposited. How wise
and kind is the disposition of the products of nature, and
how well adapted to the wants of all his creatures has the
hand of a beneficent Father distributed his blessings ; and
here, at so great a remove from all the facilities of com-
merce. He has laid up in store one of the most necessary
and useful articles of domestic use.

But few Mineral Springs have as yet been discovered.
The most remarkable are, the Soda fountain on Bear river,
about forty-five miles north of Salt Lake, remarkable for the
quantity of carbonic acid gas which is evolved, but not hav-
ing been analyzed, its particular mineral properties are not

iiUl'.

'"I'l

340

GEOLOGY.

ascertained, anJ. ho
it fjrcatlv resembles

general remark only can bo made, that
3 Saratoga waters ;— the Sulphur
Spring to the south of the Troia TcIohs, on g, brancli of
Henry's fork, around which lavfrc quantities of pure sulphur
are deposited, and "-oni which sulphureted hydrogen escapes,
and its annoying properties are perceptible more than eighty
rods distant ; — and the hot springs in the great range of the
Rocky Mountains, some of which are said to furnish the
mountain men a convenient place to boil their food.

Sulphate of magnesia, (epsom salts) purely native, exists
in immense quantities in and on both sides of the mountains.
Lakes or pools, which the heat of summer principally evap-
orates, abound in this region, exhibiting crystalized salts in
great quantities. Spicular crystals of the same salt shoot
up on the surface of the ground, effloresced to such a de-
gree as to present the appearance of fields whitened with
snow.

No indi*" ins of Metalic Ores have yet been noticed in
any part of Oregon Territory,

GENERAL REMARKS.

341

CHAPTER XXIV.

General remarks — Mtleorologica' tabic.

Having explored the most important parts of this terri-
tory, and gained all the information within my reach, as to
the several objects proposed in my instructions from the
Board of Foreign Missions ; and especially having ascer-
tained to my entire satisfaction two most prominent facts,
namely, the entire practicability of penetrating with safety
to any and every portion of the vast interior, and the dispo-
sition of the natives in regard to my mission among them,
it remained that the most feasible and expeditious mode of
returning should next be consulted. I could expect to ac-
quire but little additional knowledge in traversing the route
to Rendezvous ; and the necessary delay of several months,
it seemed could be avoided by a return by water. The
Hudson Bay Company were about to send a ship to the
Sandwich Islands, in which I was kindly offered a gra*
tuitous passage. On the other hand, my friendship with
gentlemen of this establishment, my regard for the spiritual
welfare of the benighted men for whose good I had for
many a weary day pursued my object, over mountains and
plains, hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of cli-
mate and weather ; and especially a desire to see in this
whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and to be
able to give them personally, instead of by letter, the result
of my collected information, as a guide to them in their in-
cipient labors; all these held me riveted to the spot, and un-

342

DEPARTURE FOR OAIIU RF.IT-ECTIONS.

dccidod as to my cniirsc. Atlonctli aftor cnnsiiltalion with
my most judicious frii iids, I concluded to tako passa<ro in
tlic barque Colutnl)ia for Oaiiu, in tiic lio|)o that an early
opportunity would present to rdurn to the Ihiitcd States.

In taking leave of this country and the work in which I
have so long been engaged, a train of reflections crowds
upon my mind. The fiUure condition of this noble race of
men is a subject of interesting enquiry to many others as
well as to myself. Whether the Indians are to pass away
before the increasing power and luuiibers of white men, or
whether enlightened and improved by their pbilanthroj)y,
they shall arise in the scale of intellectual and moral ex-
istence, is a problem which time alone can solve. I entered
on the work of exploring this field with no bias or precon-
ceived opinion, and from crhical and personal observation,
I Iiesitate not to say that I can see no reason existing in the
nature of things, or in their present condition, which ne-
cessarily dooms the race to annihilation on the one hand, or
on the other, necessarily makes them objects of apprehen-
sion, as the future hordes who shall in coming time, like the
northern barbarians of Roman days, bo reserved as the
scourge of an overgrown and decaying republic. If to do
good be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not
why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of
freemen from their depression, and to place them in the
rank of intelligent men, be not an undertaking fraught with
as much promise and encouragement, as it was in earlier
days to elevate our ancestors. In favor of this opinion, we
have the docility of the Indians in every thing pertaining
to their improvement; in the sprightliness of their youth
and children ; and in the amiableness of their native tem-
pers and dispositions. I take nothing of this upon testimony.

IlIiFLECTlONS.

343

In all my intercourse with thorn, T saw, with only one ex-
ception, no an^^ry or malevolent passions in exercise in tlioir

littl

eomiiiunities.

1 trenible lor llio consequences, when I refloct on the

Al)l(

wronj^s uiilicteil upon this rueo ot men. Able pens nave
portrayed in vivi I eoJDrs, tlicir injuries and abuses, and hu-
manity lias wept. \V^er(^ hut the one liuiidreilth })art spread
out to view, we sliould recoil at tlie sight. The life ot" an
Indian, in the estimation of our border an 1 refugee men wlio
visit their country, is nothin^^ worth. Theirs is a land
wiiere wliite men regard no law, hut superior cunning, and
superior force, hear rule. It was related to me that Cap-
tain S., an English olliccr in half pay, while traveling
through the Indian country, loit a horse which he highly
valued, and believing it to he stolen hy an Indian, ofTered
live hu.idi'ed dollars for his head. One of a lawless band,
a half Indian wiio was present, went in pursuit, and returned
with the head of the person charged with the theft, and de-
manded his reward. To make out the sum Captain S. gave
him two hursGs, calling each 8'350. This ended the atlair.
Mr. Wyeth in a memoir, embodied in a Report of a Com-
mittee of Congress, on the Oregon question, says " The
preponderance of had character is so great amongst traders
and their people, that crime carries with it little or no shame.
I have heard it related among white American trappers, as
a good joke, that a trapper who had said he would shoot any
Indian, whom he could catch stealing his traps, was seen
one morning to kill one; and, on being asked if the Indian
had stolen liis traps, he answered No, but he looked as it' he
was going to." These are only specimens.

I have been much pleased to notice among the henovolent
operations of the present day, the formation of a society in

i I

i!|

344

REMARKS.

England, which I regard as among not the least henevolent,
viz. "An Aborigines Protection Society," from whose "Plan
and Objects," I quote, as expressing most fully my own sen-
timents. " Among these tribes, our imported diseases pro-
duce frightful ravages, our ardent spirits deprave and con-
sume their population, our unjust laws exclude them from
enjoying that first element of well-ordered societies, judical
protection, as well as from the possibility of a timely incor-
poration with colonial communities ; while, in addition to
all these evils, our neglect of suitable means and methods
of improvement, prevents that adoption of civilized manners
and customs to which they are inclined. It is impossible
for us as men, patriots, philanthropists, or Christians, to be-
hold without anxiety, the ruin of the people whom we are
accessary in supplanting, unless our future modes of colo-
nization be directed with greater humanity and wisdom than
in times past."

I have in several places made mention of the superior
mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Mountains, and
that the seasons are divided into the wet and dry; the rainy
season commencing about the first of November, and the
dry about the first of May. The following meteorological
table, which was taken with care, will give a general speci.
men.

WliTiiOROLOUlCAL TAllLE.

345

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w •

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346

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

a . . .

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

347

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343

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

!>,

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■vi'CO&JCOClOJCOCO-'J'TI'CO-^Tj'Tf

lo 1'^ -H c{ -- -^ 00 i< t-o re o -f »-< ?D
coeocoeocococ^cocoeo'*'^'*'?

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CO CO CO CO CO

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CO CO C( CI Ci CJ CI CO CO CO CO CO CO CI

to t^ no C5 O Q
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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

349

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11 (N

350

METEOUOLOGICAL TABLE.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

351

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3 -3

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cicjcocococoeococo

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352

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

353

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^JS^S^^^g^^g^-^^^-^g.

J2 '"''"''"''— (i—(|-(i-Hi— (!—(,_(

«3

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354

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

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CO

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03 :^

d 05 T(< m CO t-

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

355

-a

J T

S S (3
e4 rt c4

3
O

-*«j

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13 >;

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3
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3

o «0 t'

ti,

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■.^

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nl

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CO
1— 1

l-H

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1-4

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l-H

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■"14

•i '•■

1.'

356

MET£OROLOGICAL TABLE.

t"-,

•

4-*

^
-§

bn
3

>-,

-3

oo"

•

T-l

b .S

V c4

B
o

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c
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GJ O 03 *^

pJX ^ pJS O

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w -• "

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«44

C£)

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•^C0«0«0C0'^O0CC>»Q0(NOOC0C0

cocor^r^t^ooaoiciocor^oocoi--r^

COOCOCOCOQOOOOT)<OtOQOh»iO
Tj»iOtOiC».T»/5COCOiC«kOCOiOiOCO

00 o> o bn

<?J CI «

t-Hdeorjtkocofoocsoi-icjPs-^in

t— ( .-4 I^ l^ ipH 1— (

W 50 iZJ

DEPARTURE FOR SANDWICH ISLANDS.

367

t*4

CHAPTER XXV.

-3"

u
u

a
u

. IS

c
o

The voyage commenced for the Sandwich Islands — passage in the
Beaver down tlio rivor — take passage in the barque Columbia — do-
tention in Chenook bay — arrival at the islands — worship in the
native church — description of Oahu — the Pari — the valley of Manoa
— description of Honolulu — of Waititi — heathen temple — Eva —
Waialua — Kcncohc — mountains— salt lake — geology — natural pro-
ductions — animals— government— tea pa-ty of the royal family —
dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise — decrease of
population — unfair negotiations — foreign residents — charity school
— seamen's chapel — burying place of the royal family — missionary
success,

On the 18th of June, according to previous arrangements,
I toolc passage in the steam-ship Beaver for Fort George,
to join tlie barque Columbia for the Sandwich Islands. As
tiio Beaver was commencing her first voyage upon the
Pacific, under the power of steam, destined for the north-
west coast, the people of the fort, and those residing around,
assembled upon the shore of the Columbia, and as she moved
majestically from her anchorage, they saluted us with cheers,
which were reciprocated by all on board, and they responded,
" A iiappy voyage, a prosperous voyage." The ship an-
chored at night a little above Tongue Point; and the next
day. after being detained upon a sand bar, from which the
tide after awhile set us free, we arrived at Fort George.

The next day, the 20th, my friend Mr. Finlayson, and a few

31*

.11 ■

if '

f 1

358

GREAT '

:i-

shores

Til

irdure of

others took a ramble on

the trees and plants, the red indigenous clover in full sweet-
ness in the desert, and the niildness of the season, all com-
bined to make the scene enchanting. It was on the shore
of this bay where I collected the large bivalve shell petri-
factions, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary
formation, as described in the chapter foregoing. No vol-
canic appearances were visible in the immediate vicinity.

On the 21st, I embarked on board the Columbia, and
we dropped down to the Chenook Bay, and anchored just
above Cape Disappointment. Here for the want of favor-
able Avind and tide, we were detained until the 28th. While
we continued here, I made several excursions on shore ; as-
cended the cape, which is probably about four hundred feet
high, and from which a fine prospect of the Pacific and its
siiores is presented as far as the eye can reach. The shore
is generally bold and rocky, furnishing no other harbor near.
The country around is rocky and densely covered with for-
ests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore, on the west
end of the cape, a large cave extends into the volcanic
rocks the distance of one hundred and fifty feet. We pen-
etrated into its gloomy recesses, and from the bones of ani-
mals strewed around within, we concluded it must bo the
retreat of some of those beasts of prey which inhabit these
forests and coasts.

About the cape at different places, grow the large orange-
yellow raspberries of a new species. The shrubbery often
grows to the height of twenty feet, and more generally in
the forests than in open places, and equally fruitful. They
are more inviting to the eye than agreeable to the taste.

While we were detained here, our men belonging to the
Columbia caught a large number of codfish. They taste

ARRIVAL AT OAIIU.

359

very much like, and resemble those taken upon the banks
of Newfoundland, excepting they are a little shorter. This
is the firttt time they were known to exist in these waters ;
tiie Indians knew nothing of them before, and they eagerly
took those we did not need.

On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light wind,
though ahead, and the tide favoring, the Beaver weighed
anchor and put out to sea for her northern voyage. She
went over the bar finely, and could have towed us over,
but it being her first experiment, it was not thought advi-
sable.

On Tuesday the 28th, the wind and tide were favorable
for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past three in the
afternoon. There was a heavy rolling sea ; and every man
was at his post, one on each side of the ship constantly throw-
ing the lead to take the sounding. Four fathoms and a half
was the least, and this was little enough considering the
heavy swell. The bar has a very bold termination ; for
we passed from seven fathoms to no sounding, where the
.sea presented its dark blue. The land receded, and in a
few hours disappeared ; and nothing was to be seen but one
wide expanse of ocean. Our voyage to Oahu,* Sandwich
Islands, was attended with nothing remarkable, except-
ing that it was performed in much shorter time than usual,
being only sixteen days from the time we loft the Col urn-
bia river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We
took our direct course, and kept it without any variation,
and with a few exceptions without shortening a sail, the
distance of two thousand five hundred miles. An almost
entire uniformity marked our progress, and excepting the

ill^

* Pronounced Wauhoo.

360

PUBLIC WORSHIP.

common alternations of day and night, sunshine and clouds,
nothing interrupted the monotony of the scene.

On the morning of the 14th of July, land was announced.
The islands of Ranai and Morakai were near, and as we
p 'sscd them, we had a near view of the latter. It is not
so mountainous as most others of the group, and presented
rather a sterile aspect. We soon after made Oahu, and
passed on Mio cast side around Diamond Hill to the harbor
of Honolulu on the south. This harbor is the best and
almost the only good one in any of the groups of the Poly-
nesian islands. Tlie entrance is somewhat intricate, and
an experienced pilot is required to take ships in safely.
Wiihin tlie coral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for
ships of almost any magnitude ; and this, with the long
extended roads without the reefs which afford good anchor-
age, renders the pori desirablC; and the island, in a com-
mercial point of view, the most important of any in this part
of the Pacific ocean.

We went on shore, two o'clock in the afternoon, and I
was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where I met
several of tlio other missionaries, and felt much rejoiced
to behold again a Christian community.

TUc heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and ener-
vating, and was it not for the refreshing eflects of the daily
north-east trade winds, it would be insupportable to a north-
ern constitution.

On Sabbath 17tli, I attended worship in the native church,
and heard Rev. Mr. fJingham preach in the Hawaiian lan-
guage to a very largo assembly of natives, probably two
thousand five hundred, who gave very good attention. They
were all decently dressed, while some of them were in the
European mode, the most of tliem were dressed in their na-

THE FARI.

361

tive costume, and made a good appearance. Their conduct
and attention were very becoming, and many listened with
deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and the
royal family, were present ; and although it was easy to
distinguish them from the common people, yet they made
no ostentatious display of royalty. Their dress was rich
but plain, and they paid sober attention to the worship of
God. The performance of the singers was good, but there
was not that melody in their voices which characterizes the
Indians.

The house of worship is large and commodious, one
hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, built
in the native style, with the roof and sides covered with
thatch.

Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich Islands, situa-
ted in north latitude 21° 18' and in west longitude 158®
38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles from Koka on
the south-east to Kakana on the north-west. The greatest
portion of the island is on the north-east of this line. Its
greatest breadth is twenty-eight miles from Kahuku on the
north to Laeloa (Barber's Point) on the south ', about four
fifths of the island is on the east of this line. The island
is very mountainous ; the highest eminence is called Hon-
ahuanui, and is a little over four thousand feet. The Pari,
at the upper end of the valley of Nuuanu, north of Hon-
olulu, may be counted among the curiosities of the island ;
principally on account of its being a part of the main
road, or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one thou-
sand one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea,
and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is to be
clambered up and down in passing from Honolulu to Ken-
ehoe, and to a stranger it is a fearful undertaking, as it is

362

DECISIVE BATTLE.

m !

necessary to have a native to assist in putting your feet into
tiie crevices of the rocks. And yet the natives pass up and
down with their calabashes of poi, and their loads of mel-
ons, fish, and other commodities, without any difficulty more
than fatigue.

Some years ago, in a war between Tamehameha and the
king of Oahu, the final battle was fought here which decided
the fate of the island. The king of Oahu made a desperate
struggle ; and one part of his routed army, numbering more
than three hundred, were pursued to this precipice, forced
down, and almost all were dashed to pieces.

On each side of this pass, needle-pointed mountains rise
up two thousand feet forming a narrow chasm, through
which the north-east trade winds rush with great violence.
Before you, at the north, you have a very pleasing view of
the fertile valley of Kolou ; and beyond is a fine prospect
of the bay and wide spread ocean. The valley between the
Pari and Honolulu is seven miles long; the upper part of
which is narrow and very picturesque. Interesting cas-
cades are seen dashing down the almost perpendicular
mountains, and the whole scenery is covered with fresh
foliage. This was almost the only place where the cool and
invigorating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat.
The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to a great
extent with iaro patches.

Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus arwn, and is planted
in hills upon patches of ground, so formed as to be partially
flooded with water, somewhat after the manner of rice cul-
tivation. In eight or ten months after setting the plants,
they are fit for use. To prepare it for food, it is always no-
cessary to roast it, to take out the pungency which is common
to this genus, as found in the wild turnip. It is frequently

feet into
s up and
I of mel-
Ity more

, and the
1 decided
lespcrato
ing more
e, forced

lins rise
through
I'iolence.
r view of
prospect
ween the
r part of
ing cas-
ndicular
th fresh
cool and
ivehcat.

3 a great

planted
mrtially
rice cul-
plants,
vays no-
common
iquently

VALLEY OF MANGA.

363

eaten for bread with no other preparation except roasting ;
or it is converted into poi by pulverising and making it into
a stiff paste. The natives prefer the poi after it has under-
gone the acetic fermentation.

East of this valley is another called Manoa, about five
miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. It is
well watered by streams descending from the mountains,
formed by showers of rain which frequently fall upon them,
and which sometimes extend to the valleys and plains. Its
fertile soil is well cultivated with sweet potatoes, taro, and
melons. At the upper end, Kaahumanu, the late queen re-
gent, who died in 1832, had a house built for retirement
from the bustle of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beau-
tiful cool grove of ohia and kukui tree-,* on an eminence
commanding a view of the valley below. Near this dwell-
ing, she caused a house to be built for the accommodation
of the missionaries, when they should wish for rest, and to
be refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains.
The evidences of her Christian character were convincinff.
Her piety was active. She traveled through all the islands,
from time to time, to set; that the people cuL ;nded upon the
means of religious mstirK'tion, and the schools ; and to rec-
ommend the religion of L.' BiLtlc to all classes of her sub-
jects. Her example, ps well as her authority, was power-
ful in suppressinii: i temperance, ;.nd the many vices which
threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was felt
not only by her own people, but also by foreigners who re-
sorted to those islands.

When I visited this spot of remembrances, the buildings

* The kukui tree bears a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of
which is used for candles, and liencc the tree is called the candle tree.

Ill

IIS:

364

HONOLULU.

were far gone to decay ; but not the cherished regard of her
piety and philanthropy. This spot presented a very plea-
sing view of the high and precipitous mountains around on
every side ; excepting the south, which is open and exhibits
to view the grandeur of the rolling ocean. The many cas-
cades around upon the mountain sides added to the interest
of the scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found
the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of maturity ;
the arrow root ; and the brake fern growing, in many in-
stances, to the height of twenty feet. From a bulb, near
the root, is taken what the natives call hapuu, a silky down,
which makes excellent beds and cushions.

Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, on a
bay of the same name, and is the capital, and business place
of all the islands. The land around, and on which the vil-
lage is located is a dry barren, excepting on the north and
north-west, which is moist and cultivated with taro patches,
with some cocoa trees interspernsd. The buildings generally
are in the native style, thatched ; many are built with doha
walls after the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico and
Peru, that is, with large sun-burnt bricks made about two feet
long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. The clay
is mixed with cut-straw to strengthen them, after the manner
of the ancient Egyptians. Tiieir enclosures are often built
in the same manner. There are several good buildings
made of rock coral in English style, some of which are spa-
cious and well finished. The village contains about nine
thousand inhabitants, three hundred of whom are English
and Americans. Most of the commercial business and trade
are carried on by foreigners, to a large amount, increased by
the resort of whale ships, in the fall and spring, for repairs
and fresh supplies, particularly vegetables ; it is the place

OLD HEATHEN TEMPLE.

365

where all other shipping touch which navigate this ocean
from Europe and America, in the Chinese and East India
trade. This place is constantly growing in importance,
and must continue to do so from its local advantages.

Four miles south-east of Honolulu is the pleasant nativi
village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the same name.
It contains five or six hundred inhabitants, is situated in a
beautiful grove cf cocoa trees, which adds very much to its
appearance and comfort. This place, if its cultivation was
proportioned to the richness of the soil, might be made one
of the most delightful spots on the island.

The only road, or any thing that deserves the name of a
road in this island, is between this place and Honolulu.

About two miles east of this village are the remains of an
old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices were offered j
a part of the walls of the enclosure are still standing. Va-
rious methods were employed to obtain victims. One of
which was to lay a iahu upon all the people in the whole
region around, that no one for a certain period of time
should go out of their dwellings, or make any fire in them,
upon pain of death. If any violated the tahii, they were
apprehended and sacrificed to their idols. If they were un-
successful in obtaining victims in this way, they w ould send
out men in a canoe, to range along between the coral reef
and the shore, and to feign distress, and if any were decoy-
ed out for their relief, they were apprehended and carried
to the temple and offered in sacrifice.

It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influence
of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel supersti-
tions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of seeing an
old man who had been a high priest in these bloody rites.

He has no hope that he is interested in the salvation of the

366

EVA.

frt;

gospel, but he said it is maitai, (good,) and that the Christian
religion is so firmly established in these islands, that their
ancient idolatry can never again be revived. He saluted
me with many alohas. Mr. Bingham gave him some ac-
count of my journey across the Rocky Mountains and the
object. He replied that it was good, and that God was with
me and preserved me. He said in their former religion,
they were all ignorant — all was darkness, entire darkness,
but now the light shines. He said that when Captain Van-
couver visited these islands in the reign of Tamaha,he urged
the king to renounce idolatry, and the king promised he
would, when Christians would send from the land of light
a minister to teach them in the right way. They waited
until their king died without knowing the right way, and no
one came until Mr. Bingham and his associates in the year
1820. This old heathen priest gave up his religion and his
honors, took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, and
called him brother, and has ever since been friendly to the
missionaries. His wife, whom I' also saw, hopes that she
has experienced the saving power of the gospel.

Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is Eva,* a village of con-
siderable magnitude, but not very compact. It is situated
on Pearl river, at the head of a large lagoon extending sev-
eral miles inland, and is surrounded with a fertile valley
reaching twelve miles north, which is two thirds of the dis-
tance to Waialua. The hiffhest elevation between these
pieces is about four hundred feet, and is intersected in va-
rious parts v/ith deep ravines. Eva is the station which
Rev. Artcmus Bishop and '."ife occupy, whose prospects of
usefulness are encouraging. When I was there, the na-

'jii *■

* Pronounced Ava.

mm^.. miu^

KENEOHE.

367

Christian
that their
e saluted
some ac-
3 and the
was with
' religion,
darkness,
tain Van-
, he urged
imised he
d of light
ey waited
ly, and no
I the year
m and his
'ival, and
dly to the
that she

geof con-
s situated
iding sev-
le valley
f the dis-
sen these
ted in va-
on which
Dspects of
\ the na-

tives were engaged in building a substantial and commodi-
ous house of worship, and appeared to take deep interest in
the effort.

In the north-west part of the island, is the village of
Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are sta-
tioned. The village is situated upon a wide spread bay,
which would furnish an excellent harbor for any shipping,
if there was sufficient water upon the bar at the entrance.
The valley around is large and fertile, capable of being
made very productive. On a Sabbath which I spent here,
eight natives, six men, and two women, were received into
the communion of the church, who appeared very intelli-
gent and serious, and conducted with as much propriety as
is seen in the most civilized parts of the world. I felt a
satisfaction in joining with these redeemed heathen in the
ordinance of the Lord's supper. Every part of divine ser-
vice was conducted with Christian decorum. I was par-
ticularly pleased with the appearance of the native deacon,
who was dignified in his person, dressed in good taste, and
very devotional in his behavior.

The only remaining village of any considerable import-
ance is Kcneohc, where Rev. Benjamin W. Parker and
wife are stationed. This village is in the fertile valley of
Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, which would af-
ford an excellent harbor if there was sufficient water at the
entrance over the coral bar. This village is about four
miles north of the Pari, and is the most cool and refreshing
retreat I found upon the island. The basaltic mountain on
the south, three thousand feet high, and nearly vertical ; and
the north-east trade winds give a temperate atmosphere,
not found in any other part of the island sufficiently low
for a village.

I'M

■-•*toJ??'^-,vi,ji.

i I

i i

368

SALT LAKE.

The greatest part of the island is mountainous, though
but two ranges are of considerable magnitude. The lar-
gest, Koanahumanui, is on the east side, and runs parallel
with the ocean, and its highest point is four thousand feet
above the level of the sea. This range of mountains is di-
versified with cones, acute points, and paries. At the great
Pari, the upper end of Nuuanu, the main chain turns to the
west, and terminates towards Waialua. The north side
of the range, west of the Pari, is very precipitous, having
many spurs projecting to the north, including deep, pit-like
ravines. The other range is on the west part of the island,
called Kaala, running north and south, separating Waianae
on the west, from the valley of Eva on the east. The high-
est point is three thousand eight hundred and fifty feet.
There are many conical hills of different magnitudes in va-
rious parts of the island, which were evidently ancient cra-
ters ; one six miles south-east of Honolulu, called Diamond
Hill ; and another a short distance north of Honolulu, called
Fort Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with
high walls, reeded down the sides, which appear to have
been formed by streams of lava, and by the action of water,
cutting ravines. There is an abundance of la/a and other
volcanic productions about these hills.

The Salt Lake, four miles west of Honolulu, is of the cra-
teric form. It is a great curiosity, as well as a source of
trade. It has undoubtedly a connection by some subterra-
neous passage with the ocean, near which it is situated.
Its depth is not known, being nearly filled with excellent
crystalized salt, which appears to be inexhaustible, and is
taken out in large quantities for use and exportation. The
lake appears as if covered with ice, a little sunken below
the surface of the water,

l^i! :f

GEOLOGY.

369

s, though
The lar-
i parallel
sand feet
ins is di-
the great
•ns to the
orth side
3, having
>, pit-like
le island,
Waianae
^he high-
ifty feet.
les in va-
3ient era-
Diamond
u, called
top, witli
to have
)f water,
nd other

the cra-
ource of
ubterra-
Ituated,
xcellent
, and is
The
a below

The geological formations of this island, and all the others
in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning which I ob-
tained information, are volcanic and coraline to a great
extent. Some have supposed that these islands have been
thrown up in the first place by internal fires, and then en-
larged by coraline additions. But there is too much argil-
laceous soil to favor the opinion ; and to say the least, the
supposition is without conclusive evidence. Much of the
soil is formed of disintegrated and decomposed lava. The
reefs lying off from the shores, and in some places immedi-
ately upon them, are coraline. The corals are divided into
ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Between these
formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancieat corals are
found in many places forming the surface of the plains, ele-
vated some six or eight feet above the present level of the
ocean. As the zoophytes, which form coral, never work
above water, it is evident that these islands have been ele-
vated by some subterranean or submarine power, or the
ocean is subsiding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen
in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not the same degree,
is it not probable that the waters of the ocean are gradually
diminishing ? Of the modern corals there are many species-,
from the rock, to the most beautiful kinds resembling trees
and plants, and of various colors. The volcanic formations
do not differ materially from those in Oregon Territory.
Cellular lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice,
and of various colors; brick red, ash colored, orange yellow,
and green. No primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious
sand ; the sand upon the shores being formed either of dis-
integrated lava, scoria, or coral, but more generally com-
bined of these three elements.

While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the

32*

370

ANIMALS.

productions of these islands, the following are some of the
principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa tree, wluch fur-
nishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybiscus, candle
nut tree, mulberry, fig, cotton tree, which grows spontane-
ously and produces cotton of very fine quality; coffee tree,
grape vines, oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons of
superior quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root; indigo
plant, which grows finely without any care ; the guava, a
fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the taste
of those not accustomed to them ; taro, sweet and common
potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns of extraor-
dinary size, and the cactus opuntia, familiarly known as the
prickly pear, growing to the height of six or eight feet, is
planted in hedge-rows for enclosures. All the most superb
tropical flowering plants luxuriate in these islands, among
which we find the oriental lilac, eight different species of
mimosa, the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convol-
vulus, and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, roses,
the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beautiful
genera. Also garden vegetables of various kinds.

These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, contained
but very few animals, and most of those now found upon
them have been since introduced from the Mexican coast.
There are now, horses, mules, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs,
fowls. The birds which have their residence here, though
not numerous, are of most beautiful plumage, and the favor-
ite head ornament of the women, is made of the golden
colored feathers of a native bird. The crow and raven,
which are common in almost all parts of the world, have
not found their way here. There are very few reptiles, but
the green lizard is very common, and in the days of the
idolatry of the Islanders was worshiped, and such is the in-

GOVERNMENT.

371

Tie of the
f\nc\\ fur-
is, candle
spontane-
Dlfee tree,
melons of
it ; indigo
guilva, a

the taste
1 common
' extraor-
wn as the
it feet, is
3st superb
s, among
species of
[>f convol-
'er, roses,

beautiful

contained
und upon
an coast,
ogs, dogs,
e, though
the favor-
le golden
id raven,
>rld, have
ptiles, but
ys of the
is the in-

fluence of superstition, that they can hardly dismiss all
feelings of reverence for this insignificant reptile. If one
comes into their dwellings, they choose to let it take its
own departure rather than molest it. Snakes arc unknown,
and the scorpion and contiped have within a very few
years been brought here in vessels. The niusquitoo was
not known until recently, though now they are numerous
and very annoying.

The government of these islands is absolute and heredi-
tary, administered ^^ the king, queen, and chiefs, whoso
will is the suprenv \V ; the common people are a nation of
slaves. The lands Delong to the government, and are leased
to the people at high rents, and even then they have no
security that they shall enjoy the avails of their labor ; for
beside the stipulated rents, the government make any addi-
tional demands they please, and the people are taught to
obey without complaining. The persons of the chiefs are
remarkable for their extraordinary size, towering quite
above the height of the common people, and in corpulency
preserving corresponding dimensions. The king secures
his house and person by life guards. Very frequently on a
Saturday morning, the queen regent, attended by her train
and servants in equestrian style, visits her garden some two
miles from Honolulu. Their appearance is fine, and they
are well skilled in horsemanship. Her ordinary mode of
riding is in a small, low-wheel carriage drawn by twenty
servants. The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas, as the com-
mon people are called, have less activity of body and mind
than the Indians of our continent, and yet a phrenologist
would say that their intellectual powers are well developed.
In their present political condition, they are not expected to
be otherwise than indolent and improvident. In their dress,

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WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) S72-4S03

372

TEA PARTY — DOG FEAST.

mode of living, and habitations generally, they have made
but little advance upon the days of heathenism ; some in
the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing than
their maro, and having their dwellings in caverns in vol-
canic rocks. The chiefs, and some of the people, have
good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably.
The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, to
which with a few others I had the honor to be invited.
They were dressed richly and in good taste ; the table was
splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china ; the enter-
tainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and
prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such occa-
sions was observed. The conversation was cheerful and
intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred embar-
rassing to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were in-
vited into a saloon well furnished, where, after a perform-
ance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro-
posed thsit prayer should conclude our agreeable visit; after
which the company retired. I have seen but few parties
in Christian America conducted more on the principles of
rationality and religion.

An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted in a
ditlerent style by some of our countrymen and other for-
eigners in those islands. A dog-feast, as it is there called,
was given by foreign resident gentlemen, on the 20th of
Sept. at the country seat of the American consul, in honor
of the officers of the American squadron, the Peacock and
Enterprise, then in the harbor of Honolulu. I extract from
the account published in the Sandwich Island Gazette as de-
scribed at the time. "Food in native style was bountifully
served up — baked dog was among the dishes, and it was not
to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bumpers, and speecln.

DECREASE OF POPULATION.

373

es all came in their turn. Among the toasts were, ♦Com-
modore our Commodore.* Commodore's reply, ♦ May

you all live a thousand years, and may wo always meet

here.' Doctor of the United States ship Peacock.

' Population and prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, and an
end to all oppressive tabus.' The party separated teeming
with good spirits."

The population of these islands has been decreasing ever
since an acquaintance has been had with them. Captain
Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present popu-
lation is about 110,000. A variety of causes have conspi-
red to bring about this declension, and yet no one so promi-
nent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enquiry. It is
acknowledged by all observers, and has become evident to
the government itself, that a change of things in the inter-
nal structure of their national affairs, is necessary to the
prosperity of the people. During my stay at Oahu, the
heads of the nation had frequent meetings to discuss the
subject of reform and improvement, and to adopt some new
mode of administration which will give to the people the
privileges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus-
try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed among
the people, a more equal mode of taxation must be adopted,
industry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity
will follow in train.

The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and
with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposi-
tion to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested by
foreign powers. Whether the paw of the Lion, or the talons
of the Eagle, shall first make them its prey, or whether they
shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus prolong
the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The manner

'iP

'I'

374

FOREIGN RESIDENTS.

in which the king and chiefs are often treated by the offi-
cers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet with,
would not pass with impunity from a more powerful people.
In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had to mutual
rights, but here foreigners assume the style of dictation ;
"You shall, and you shall not." Assertions are made of
things existing in the laws and practices of England and
America, which neither government would tolerate. Lord
Russcl, the commander of the Acteon, a British man of
war, obtained the signature to a certain instrument, by
assuring the Hawaiian government that if they refused
any longer to sign it, he would order all the English ves-
sels to leave the harbor, and request all the American
shipping to withdraw ; and then bring his armed ship be-
fore their fort, and batter down the walls, and prostrate
their village. The king signed the instrument, and then,
together with the queen and chiefs, like some other people
who feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had only
the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They accordingly
sent a remonstrance to the king of Great Britain, in which
they say, that " on account of their urging us so strongly ;
on account of said commanders assuring us that their
communication was from the king ; and on account of their
making preparation to fire upon us, — therefore we gave
our assent to the writing, without our being willing to
give our real approbation ; for we were not pleased
with it." They feel incompetent to contend with naval
strength, and therefore submit to indignities from which
their feelings revolt. Why cannot the principles of jus-
tice and equity govern the intercourse of men with
men, where they are so well understood, and the pain-
ful necessity be spared of innocence and helplessness

FOREIGN RESIDENTS.

375

supplicating that protection which Heaven grants to its
children.

Much has been said of the character of the foreign res-
idents, and of the counteracting influence they exert upon
the labors of the missionaries in this field. The cause of
their bitterness and opposition is well understood, and lest
my own observations should seem partial to the missiona-
ries, and invidious towards those who oppose them, I will
embrace all I have to say on the subject in a quotation
from a work published by Mr. J. N. Reynold of the voy-
age of the Potomac, an American man of war. He cer-
tainly cannot be accused of partiality to the missiona-
ries who reside on these islands, for his remarks on them
are somewhat acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign
residents he says, " they are generally devoid of all reli-
gious principle, and practice the greatest frauds upon the
natives in their dealings with them ; which tends to cor-
rupt their morals, and to preclude all hopes of fairness
in trade among them. It cannot be denied, and no one
can regret it more than we do, that this whole population,
generally speaking, are of the lowest order ; among whom
every thing like decent restraint which civilized soci-
ety imposes upon its members, is at war with their vi-
cious propensities, and of course resisted by them to the
extent of their power." He farther add.^, "let us be dis.
tinctly understood in the remarks we have made in refer-
ence to the foreign residents and missionaries on this isl-
and. As to the question, which party is on the side of
virtue and good order, there can be but one opinion,
"where there is not even room for comparison." 1 have
been in communities where vice has been unblushingly
indulged, but I have never witnessed direct enmity to

; il

III

'm:

? I

III •:,.

376

ROYAL CEMETERY.

every thing morally good, in so much bitterness and pow-
er, as in Oahu.

Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and
manifest a regard for the education of their children ; and
send some of them to other countries for this purpose ; but
for most of them a chanty school has been established, and
for its support a call is made upon the commanders and
officers of vessels who come into this port ; and they have
even sent to England and America for charitable aid.
Though some poor are taught here, yet I know not why the
benevolent should help, by way o^ charity, the consuls and
rich merchants in Oahu.

I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several times
for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred
seamen in „ .e port of Honolulu, there are frequently very
few attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev.
Mr. Diell, ,heir worthy chaplain, is iiowever indefatigable
in his labors through the week, visiting sailors on ship
board, and wherever he can find them, endeavoring to pro-
mote their spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned
his efforts.

On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Prin-
cess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, I visited
the burial place of the kings and royal family. This is a
stone building of rock coral, of the common size and struc-
ture of the houses of the village, and situated amongst them,
having nothing particularly distinguishable except an out-
ward signal, by which is understood the number and rank
of the dead within. They are encased first in lead, secured
from the admission of air, and then deposited in coffins of
elegant workmanship, covered with rich silk velvet or
crimson damask, and ornamented with silver or brass plate.

MISSIONARY SUCCESS.

377

ind pow-

ves, and
en ; and
ose ; but
ihed, and
iders and
liey have
ible aid.
; why the
isuls and

iral times
I hundred
ntly very
b1. Rev.
efatigable
; on ship
ng to pro-
3 crowned

the Prin-

Lt, I visited

This is a

and struc-

ngst them,

jpt an out-

and rank

,d, secured

coffins of

velvet or

irass plate.

Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kamehamalu, who
died on a visit to England, and several others lying in state;
and in the same tomb, are interred a number of other mem-
bers of the royal family.

The missionaries of the American Board of Commission-
ers for Foreign Missions in these islands, have done much
to elevate the character of the population, by teaching and
preaching the truths of Christianity, by schools, where the
first rudiments of education are taught, by the press, and a
translation of the entire bible ; they have exerted a salutary
influence upon the morals of the whole nation, and raised a
monument to the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus
Christ. They have also laid instrumentally, a broad
foundation for the political, and social, and religious im-
provement of that people, unless thwarted by the interfe-
rence and opposition of foreigners, and for the future and
unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the world to
come. I had frequent opportunities of witnessing the eflfect
of their labors in the evidences of the moral renovation of
these once idolaters, and of meeting with them in their
great congregation on the Sabbath.

378

HOMEWARD BOUND.

I ill

CHAPTER XXVI.

Departure from Oahu in ship PhoDnix for the United StatcF — call at
the Society Islands — brief description of Tahiti and Eimco — severe
gales of wind — Magellanic clouds — Martin Vass island — Trinidad —
arrival at New London.

From July to November, no vessel departed from the
Sandwich Islands direct for the United States, and after
being detained about five months, waiting an opportunity to
return, I engaged a passage in the Phoenix, Allyn, from
New London, and embarked December 17th. The ship was
built for the China trade, of four hundred and ten tons,
manned with twenty-eight persons, besides five passengers.
The pilot boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ;
our course south-west. On the morning of the 21st, we en-
countered a strong wind, which in the afternoon had in-
creased so much, that we were compelled to put two reefs
in the top-sails; and a squall split our jib and sprung our
foremast. I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy the
grandeur of the rolling ocean, being confined to the cabin
by sea sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling
business, and I was furnished, for once, with an opportuni-
ty of seeing the experiment of taking a whale. The thing
has often been described, but the novelty of the manoeu-
vre interested me. The experienced and skillful whale-
men dispose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of
their profession, in a manner much beyond my conceptions
before witnessing it ; and the monster of the deep, though

TETUAROA AND TAHITI ISLANDS.

379

tcf — call at
ICO — severe
Trinidad—

from the
and after
rtunity to
lyn, from
3 ship was

ten tons,
issengers,
morning;
st, we en-
n had in-
two reefs
jrung our
enjoy the
the cabin

whaling
)pportuni-
rhe thing
; manoeu-
lil whale-
tactics of
nceptions
p, though

mighty in his strength, is made to submit to inferior power,
and to contribute largely to illuminate our evenings at
home. When the whale is brought along side of the ship,
the whalemen dissever the head from the body, and hoist
it on deck, and while some are employed in perforating the
scull, and with a bucket taking out the sperm, others make
a spiral incision in the oily portion, beginning where the
head was taken off, and by rope and hook suspended by a
pulley twenty feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily part
which cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the whale
revolves in the water ; and this process is continued until all
that is valuable is secured. There are said to be thirty
thousand men employed in this business in the Pacific, while
only about four hundred are engaged in diffusing the light
of life through the dark places of the earth.

January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day we
had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails were close
reefed, — split our main-top-sail. Headed to the E. close on
the wind. Very bad sea — not able to take any observation
of our latitude or longitude. These gales continued on the
13th until almost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on
the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate,
and we headed south. By observation raken to-day, our
latitude was 14" 47' south.

Sabbath, 15t,h. The winds subsided, ana the weather was
warm. In the morning we came near Tetuaroa, a small
island of the Society group. It is low, the highest parts ri-
sing but a few feet above the level of the sea, is thinly in-
habited, and adorned with large and beautiful groves of the
cocoa tree extending even to the water's edge. The fresh
verdure of this island in all the luxuriance of perpetual
summer, was a delightful contrast to the constant view of the

lii

380

PEPEETI.

i {

water for nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of
the ocean were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager,
and bring to his mind the recollection of his own dear home.
Like all the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is sur-
rounded with coral reefs, lying off at a little distance from
the shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the
afternoon we approached the harbor of Papceti, at the island
of Tahiti. The pilot came off to us, and made an cflbrt to
get the ship in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light,
and we had to bear off for the night. The prospect as it
lay spread out before us was a combination of all that was
beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the impression
which this little "Queen of the ocean" makes upon a stran-
ger. Others have described it with all the vividness which
its romantic and delightful scenery inspires. The harbor
forms a gentle curve, and in the foreground, on a level tract
were scattered neat cottages built of thatch, or wood, plas-
tered and whitewashed with coral lime, situated together with
the church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa, and orange
groves. The back ground of the enchanting picture was
filled up with hills and valleys, and streams dashing their
way down the ravines, and then meandering through the
rich vale below, to the ocean, while the outline terminated
in sleep and lofty mountains. But not the least interesting
were the marks which the Christian religion and its attend-
ant, civilization, have made. Here was a church, and to
know that this people had lately been rescued from pagan-
ism, and all the hideous forms of idolatrous worship, raised
in my heart emotions of pleasure and gratitude, which not
even nature's fairest forms had power to awaken. An im-
mortal spirit elevated from the dust, and raised to heaven, a
monument of the Savior's grace — what can equal it ?

CHRISTIANITV AND CIVILIZATION.

381

Monday morning, the 10th, wc passed safely into the har-
bor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pierson, from Sag
Harbor; on board of which were Rev. W. Richards and
family, passengers for the United States.

We continued in this port four days, during which timo
I made several excursions about the island, and became ac-
quainted with the English missionaries, of whose successful
labors I had often heard and read; the Rev. Messrs. Wil-
son, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They ap-
pear happy in their work, and devoted to it. Tlie Christian
religion is the only religion acknowledged in these islands,
and its influence is universally apparent. As the conver-
sion of multitudes in the first ages of Christianity, has ever
been considered as furnishing evidence of the truth of the
gospel, so the "moral miracle" of the conversion of the
islands of the sea, in our own day, is calculated, with all
its attendant circumstances to confirm our faith, as well as to
encourage us in prosecuting still farther those benevolent de-
signs, which render the deserts, both naturally and morally,
the garden of the Loi'd. Besides preaching on the Sabbath,
the missionaries have religious service on other days of the
week. At sun-rise every morning they have a public prayer
meeting. They are doing much by their schools and the
press ; and most of the people can read. The performances
of the natives in vocal music pleased me, their voices being
very soft and musical, though less cultivated than those of
the Sandwich Islanders. Their personal appearance, com-
plexion, language, and dress are much the same as the na-
tives of those islands. Their advances in the arts and in
agriculture are less than might be expected of them, but in
a climate where so many rich fruits vegetate spontaneously,

the necesssity of cultivation is less imperious. While the

33*

5 ll

382

GOVERNMENT.

harbor is not as good as that of Oahu, less is done by way
of wharfing, or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid in re-
pairing the shipping winch visit tJiis island. A good public
road has been commenced to extend around the Island, on
which convicts, instead of being imprisoned, were employed,
but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are broken
down.

The government here is much the same as that of the
Sandwich Islands, but is in some respects more free and sys-
tematized. Their judiciary is well organized, and justice
is tolerably well administered. Their legislative body is
composed of the queen, governors, chiefs, and two represen-
tatives from each district of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo;
the laws when framed are canvassed by the people, and if
approved, receive the queen's signature . The young queen
Pomare is of very prepossessing appearance, possesses tal-
ents, and decision of character ; but her views of civilization
are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau.

The American consul, of these islands, resides at Papee-
ti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native and
citizen of Antwerp. His English is hardly intelligible, and
his knowledge of the duties of his office is yet to be ac-
quired.

The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large
islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They
are mountainous, many of which are high and steep, and
many of the valleys are deep and narrow, extending far
into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil is rich
and productive ; oranges and all other tropical fruits being
abundant, and requiring little labor or care. Such is the
indolence of the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides
sugar cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well

CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS.

383

by way
aid in re-
od public
.sland, on
niployed,
e broken

at of the
and sys-
d justice

1 body is
rcpresen-
1 Eimeo;
c, and if
ng queen
ssses tal-
I'ilization

It Papee-
itive and
ible, and
to be ac-

er large
. They
eep, and
ding far
il is rich
its being
ch is the
Q besides
are well

supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood
equal in value to mahogany for cabinet work. The heat
for the most part of the year is so oppressive that though
many things are very pleasant, yet those islands come short
of the paradise which some journalists have described.

These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been di-
minishing in populousness. Various causes, such as the in-
troduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human sacrifices,
the means furnished by commerce of rendering wars do.
structive to human life, and the introduction of ardent spirits,
have all contributed to this end. It is estimated that only
about twelve thousand people inhabit the two islands of Ta-
hiti and Eimeo, and about forty thousand the Georgian and
Society group. The introduction of the Christian religion
has banished many causes of their decline.

The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy of re-
mark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and sea bath-
ing, to which they are induced by the climate, and of which
they are fond, including all descriptions of persons, and even
children, is highly conducive to health, and promotes a taste
for neatness in their persons not common to heathen nations.

Wednesday, 18th, I acconipunicd Mr. Pritchard in his
pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, where he
preached to a congregation in a village in which the queen
has her residence. Queen Pomaro was present, and an
interesting audience appeared to listen as if they were
hearing the word to obey it. After the meeting we pursued
our ride about seven miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson's at
Point Venus, a lovely spot, situated in orange groves and
bananas. Our way thither was around the base of hills and
mountains which approached near the beach in precipices,
and where the opening through the coral reefs permitted the

t'f

384

PUBLIC FEAST.

11'

sea to break on the shore with a noise like thunder, so that
we had to watch the opportunity afforded by the receding
waves to pass their po"i<is. Any horses, but those accus-
tomed to the sight, would have denied us a safe passage.
With these dear missionaries I partook of a cheerful dish of
tea, while we talked of the interests of the kingdom of our
common Redeemer, and of the time when fellow laborers
from every part of our lost world, and from their different
spheres of agency, when their work here is done, shall be
gathered to their Father's home in heaven.

In the evening we returned to Mr. Pritchard's, on my part
delighted with so refreshing an interview.

During my short stay, the queen and royal family of a
neigliboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Tahiti.
This affoi'ded me a very desirable opportunity of remarking
the manners and customs of the people. A public feast
was given in honor of the royal visitants ; and the day was
ushered in by firing rusty guns, of which they have a very
few. The morning until ten o'clock was occupied in col-
lecting together their cocoanuts, bananas, baked hogs, &c.
Many were out to purchase calico scarfs of two or three
yards in length to wear in the procession. A very large pro-
cession formed, the women taking the lead, and the men fol-
lowing in order. A female with an infant in her arms led
the van. This was explained to me as done in honor of
mothers ; for here, as well as at the Sandwich Islands, wo-
men are regarded as in all respects on a par with men. All
were well attired in European style, their heads adorned
tastefully with garlands of most beautiful tropical flowers,
with which their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion. After
taking, in single file, a long and circuitous march, they ar-
rived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoanut,

PREPARING FOR SEA.

385

r, so tliat
receding
e accus-
passage.
j1 dish of
11 of our
laborers
different
shall be

my part

lily of a
Tahiti,
marking
lie feast
day was
e a very
d in col-
ogs, &c.
or three
irge pro-
men fol-
irnis led
honor of
nds, Avo-
3n. All
adorned
flowers,
. After
they ar-
ocoanut,

bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the centre, with
an infant, sat the royal visitor; and each Tahitian as they
passed, threw down at her feet their scarfs or some other
present. It was the pleasure of the queen, however, not
long to retain all these tokens of honor, for she seemed happy
in generously giving them to others. After the procession
had passed in respectful review, next came the refreshments,
which were placed, some on the ground, others suspended
on boughs of trees, which were taken and shared in little
circles seated upon the grass, evidently enjoying the social
interview. This is considered one of their most joyful holi-
days, and was managed without noise, confusion, or any
apparent infraction of the rules of propriety. It must be
recollected that this is a temperance island; all traffic in
ardent spirits being prohibited by law.

In taking leave of these islands, I would not fail to men-
tion the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and family,
and the satisfaction I had in seeing the other missionaries,
and witnessing the interesting fruits of their labors under
the blessing of God.

Our stay at Tahiti was employed by the ship's crew in
disposing of our poor sulphureted water from the Sandwich
Islands, and in re-supplying themselves with the pure moun-
tain streams of this island, and in ^^ vegetating the ship,^^ as
they phrase it ; that is, by collecting quantities, which are
purchased of the natives, of oranges, bananas, sweet pota-
toes, limes, cocoanuts in abundance, bread-fruit, yams, and
squashes. Here I collected for my cabinet, some choice
specimens of coral, and shells of the ocean, which the na-
tives dive to obtain, and sell to the ships which enter this
port.

On the morning of Saturday 21st January, we left the

386

MAN OVERBOARD.

ti ' '

harbour of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we sailed around
Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely wooded tops and
precipitous sides, appeared in full prospect. On this island
there is a high school for the children of the missionary
families of the several islands.

We proceeded with a favorable wind until the 30th, when
our latitude was 30° 27' south, and longitude 153° 10' west.
I was here much gratified to witness the interesting phe-
nomenon of a water spout. It first became visible to us
about half a mile distant as it arose, and at that distance
we had no apprehensions of danger from it, and yet it was
sufficiently near to give a distinct view. It commenced in
a small, dark, and nearly perpendicular column, enlarging
its diameter as it rose, until it reached the region of the
clouds, when apparently feeling the influence of the wind,
it passed obliquely to the south-west. It continued in view
some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, it grad-
ually disappeared.

On the 4th of February, fresh breezes from the north-
west took the place of the south-east trade winds, and our
course was laid E. S. E.

On the .'jth we had strong gales from the west. Put two
reefs in the top-sails, and took in the mizzen-top-sail, and
handed the main-sail. The sea was very heavy. On the
9th the wind was more moderate; and while engaged in
spearing porpoises, one of the men fell overboard from the
bow, and went directly under the ship, and came up under
her stern. The life buoy was thrown over to him, but
being an indifterent swimmer he was long in his efforts
to seize it. By lowering the boat and rounding about the
ship, he was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost
overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a great

HEAVY GALE.

387

variety of occurrences taken from the world, and the cer-
tain knowledge awakens but feeble sensations in our bosoms ;
but a solitary case of individual danger and suffering which
we witness, arouses all our anxieties and sympathies, and
we are grateful when relieved by the safety of the suf-
ferer.

On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tromendous. We
were in latitude about 47° south, and 120'=' west longitude.
With nearly every sail taken in, we could only run before
the wind, which was from the north-west, and the waves were
constantly breaking over our bulwarks. Such was the
roaring of the wind and breaking waves, that it was diffi-
cult for the orders of the captain to be heard, upon his loud-
est voice, from midship, forward or aft. The wind blew
tons of water into the air and scattered them into ten thou-
sand sprays. I never had such evidence of the power of
wind and water, nor of the admirable manner the ship could
live in such a gale. She would roll upon the waves and
plunge and rise again upon the mountain billows. The
whole scene was fraught with magnificence, terror, and
grandeur. It was a great favor that we had a courageous
and experienced captain ; and a sober, active, and obe-
dient crew ; and above all the protection of Heaven. Two
men were constantly at the wheel, selected from our best
steersmen. We shipped a great quantity of water, and
on the night of the 17th, the fore deck had scarcely at
any time, less than a foot, or two feet of water, the waves
breaking over faster than the water could pass through
the scuppers. Two pumps were at work a large portion
of the time to keep the ship clear, so much water was con-
stantly finding its way down the closed hatches and other
leakages of the deck. The two men at each pump la-

388

THE NODDY AND ALBATROSS.

bored so forcibly, that it was necessary to be relieved by
others every three minutes. I reflected on the condition of
those who were not prepared for death, and that even
to a Christian a quiet deathbed would be preferable to
leaving the world in such a scene of confusion. But we
were spared in great kindness, and the following morning
the wind began to abate. Captain Allyn, who had been
into most of the principal seas, and around both of the
great Capes, said he never saAv, except in a typhoon which
he encountered on the Japan coast, any gale which equal-
led this.

The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail and
rain until the 28th, when we found we were driven to the
59° of south latitude, and 77° west longitude. This was
farther south of Cape Horn than we wished to go. The
weather was cold and thick, the thermometer ranging be-
tween 41° and 47^^ for several days. On the 1st of March
we saw for the first time after leaving Tahiti, a sail to the
windward heading south-west, but were unable to speak
her. It was very pleasant to find our latitude lessening in
our homeward course, though we were not up with the Cape
until the third of March. During the gales, and especially
in stormy weather, our vessel was very frequently visited
by a bird which navigators call the Noddy, and which is
easily taken by the hand. It is of the Tern genus, twelve
inches long, slenderly formed; its plumage is a dark sooty
brown, excepting the top of its head which is dusky white.
The Albatross also was constantly flying about us, regard-
less of wind and waves. Our men caught several of them
with a hook, the he?ds of which, when standing upon the
deck, were four feet high; their aler measurement was ten
feet. Although they are generally of a brown color, yet in

MAGELLANIC CLOUDS.

389

the region of Cape Horn, they vary from a mixture of brown
and white, to an almost entire white. They are the largest
class of the feathered race.

We had for a long time an opportunity of observing the
Magellanic clouds; wiiich are three in number, two lumin-
ous and one black; about thirty degrees distant from each
other, and fixed in their relative situations as are the fixed
stars. Although I had noticed them, supposing them to be
clouds, and wondering how an illuminated cloud should be
seen at all times of the night, and preserve its position with
an outline so well defined and so plainly marked, yet my
mind was not wholly satisfied respecting them, until the
Mate of the ship, who had seen them in previous voyages,
and who possessed considerable astronomical knowledge,
pointed out to me some of their characteristics. The weath-
er in those high southern latitudes being so uniformly thick
and cloudy, prevented our observing them so early, or care-
fully as we might otherwise have done. They were distinct-
ly visible for weeks, keeping their relative situation, and their
altitude above the southern horizon, lessening to the beholder
according as his latitude diminished while he proceeded
north. The forms of each are about five degrees in di-
ameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly are formed by
clusters of stars, so numerous and contiguous, and so
distant as only to give a glimmering light like luminous
cloud-!, which gives them their name; and the black one is
very probably the entire absence of all light. I gazed at
these, night after night, with wonder and admiration. It
seemed to me, that looking at the dark one, was looking be-
yond created nature into infinite space.

Gales occurred occasionally after we doubled Cape Horn,

but most of the time was pleasant and the winds favorable,

390

FUNERAL AT SEA.

until the 27th of March in south latitude 23° 27', and west
longitude 28^* 34, the wind came around to the north, and
continued to blow from a northerly direction for ten days,
which retarded our progress, and carried us off our course
to the east, until we were brought into 26° west longitude,
where we changed our course west by north. On the first
of April, we spoke and East Indiaman. She was a very
large, fine-looking ship, of about eight hundred tons, well
filled with men, women, and children, who probably were
passengers for New Holland. This was the first ship we
had spoken after the Spartan, near the line on the other
side of the continent. It is difficult to imagine how pleas-
ant it is to see and speak a ship after having been months
at sea. A few hours after, we saw another East Indiaman,
but did not speak her. By falling in with these ships, we
found we were so near Africa, that we were in the track of
ships from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope.

The same day we buried one of the seamen in the great
dsep. He was a man who in early life was trained up in
the care of pious parents, but whose after life was marked
by vices, which in their consequences led to a comparative-
ly early death. It was a solemn scene when we committed
his remains to the water grave. The colors were raised
half mast, the whole ship's company collected around ; the
body, with weights attached, was laid upon a plank at the
gang-way ; and we paused to dwell for a momeut on death
and the dread scenes beyond. I addressed them in a few
remarks suggested by the occasion, and after a prayer, the
plank was gently moved over the side of the ship, and the
dead disappeared to be seen no more.

On the 2d, we made Martin Vass islands, which are five
in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, without any

MARTIN VASS AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS.

391

,nd west
rth, and
sn days,
r course
ngitude,
the first
3 a very
ms, well
>ly were
ship we
le other
w pleas.
I months
idiaman,
hips, we
track of

the great
ed up in
1 marked
parative-
jmmitted
re raised
ind ; the
ik at the
on death
in a few
lyer, the
, and the

are five
houl any

soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five hun-
dred feet. Two are very small and needle pointed. They
are all so precipitous, and the sea constantly breaking
against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are
fantastical ; one of them having the appearance of a forti-
fication with bastions, about which are needle points resem-
bling men on guard. They are in 20° 3! ' south latitude, and
28° 38' west longitude. By changing our course more
westerly we made Trinidad, off against St. Roque, which is
an island of considerable size, and in latitude 20° 28', and
longitude 29° 5'. Near evening we were fifteen miles from
it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail and
lay off* for the night. Some Portuguese once settled upon
it, but it is so difficult of access, that they abandoned it, and
it is now without any inhabitants.

On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within three
miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore ;
but finding no place free from breakers, gave up the at-
tempt, caught a few fish near the shores, and after being
much annoyed with flies which came off* to us, we returned
to the ship, and with a favorable breeze pursued our course.
This island is also volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and
is mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen
hundred, or two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for
multitudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large.
I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man-of-
war hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are
handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey
upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly silky
white species of the Tern, which hovered over us with great
tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance
with us, not suspecting any hostility.

392

EVENINGS AT SEA.

Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were
clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable brightness.
What has been described by others of evenings at sea, in
the southern hemisphere, I had an opportunity of observing
with admiration. The richest colors of red, orange, and
yellow, are spread over the western sky after the setting
sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pen-
cil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in soft-
ness over this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can
lay on these delicate shades, and add to it the brilliancy,
ever varying, of so much I'ichness and splendor.

In the deep seas we did not see many fish ; of the few
which came under our observation, the dorado, or as com-
monly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish excelled in the
beauty of their colors. The former, when taken upon deck,
constantly changed its colors from the bright purple to the
gold, the bluish green, and the silver white, and these spread-
ing out into vanishing shades. The pilot fish is equally
beautiful, but is singular in the choice of company and em-
ployment; always being found with the shark, and conduct-
ing him to his prey, from which it derives its^ame.

The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers for
occupying both air and water, but finds no friend in either;
pursued by the dolphin or some other fish, it swims with all
speed until it can no longer escape its destructive enemy,
and then takes to flight in the air, where the albatross and
the man-of-war hawk hover to make it their prey. In its
flight it often falls upon the decks of ships, when 7naji shows
it no mercy.

On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a few
days we had calms or only light winds with showers. The
heat was very intense, and to be becalmed under these

CROSS THE EQUATOR — LAND DESCRIED.

393

circumstances is more to be dreaded than gales. But we
were much favored, and soon found ourselves in north
latitude, and it was witii sensations of delight that I again
beheld the North Star, though but just above the horizon.
I hailed it as the harbinger of good, and the future guide
to the long forsaken iiome and friends which I now realized
that I was fast approaching.

All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and
we observed the gulf weed in great abundance before we
came to the gulf-stream. It is an aquatic plant of a pecu-
liar liglit green color, and floats upon the service of the
water. We entered and passed tiie stream on the 14th of
May, in 36° 37' north latitude ; and though a rough sea is
generally expected here, yet we had a very pleasant time.
The current is at the rate of three miles an hour, and the
temperature seven degrees warmer than the adjacent water.

On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were
cheered with the cry from the man at the mast head, ^^Land
ho! ahead." It proved to be Block Island. We came in
sight of the light-house in the evening, but too late to at-
tempt to get into the harbor before morning, and therefore
lay off for the night. In the morning we fo'^nd ourselves
among various shipping bound to different ports. We pass-
ed Montauk Point and drew near to New London, where
the sight of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country
around, and the islands dressed in green, were most grateful,
especially to one so long conversant with heathen countries
and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed up the Thames to
the city, and I rejoiced to land once more upon Christian
and civilized shores, my native land, my country! In
taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and

crew to say, that I received from them every kind attention

34*

394

ARRIVAL AT HOME.

I could wish, and being a temperance siiip, I did not hear a
profane word from any while on board. We had public
worship, during the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of
God was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the
saving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in
New London, and after arranging my business, directed my
way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d of May, after an
absence of more than two years and two months, and having
accomplished a journey of twenty-eight thousand miles.

APPENDIX.

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES

NEZ PERCE

LANGUAGE.

English.

Indian,

God,

hemukis Tota.

Spirit,

koonapa.

Father,

tota.

Man, ■

hamu.

Woman,

iat.

Mother,

peka.

Child,

mcaits.

Brother,

uskeep.

Sister,

axsip.

Husband,

hiimii.

Wife,

waipna.

en.

Thou,

em.

He,

emim.

She,

aiat.

It,

ke.

They,

elahne tetokan.

People,

tetokan.

Heaven,

accompenaka.

Earth,

waitush.

Water,

coos.

Fire,

aula.

Snow,

maika.

Rain,

waikit.

Wood,

haitsu.

Grass,

pax.

Hell or bad

spirit,

koonapa kapseish

306

VOCABULARY.

Horse,

shecum.

Wliito Bear,

huliats.

Black Bear,

eakat.

Beaver,

taxi)ull.

Otter,

collas.

Deer,

cnishnim.

Moose,

taissheep.

BuflUlo,

cocoil.

Wolf,

siyah.

Salmon,

natso.

Trout,

wowalthum.

Gun,

tcmoon.

Powder,

popokes.

Ball,

saip.

Stone,

pishwa.

What is that?

etu ke.

Who is that ?

eshe ke.

There,

koone.

Here,

kone.

Where,

mene.

When,

mowwa.

How many ?

moits.

None,

siou.

All,

oekalla.

Plenty,

elahne.

Near by.

keemta.

Great way off,

wyat.

This road.

iskit.

Stop,

collo.

Go,

coetuc.

Run,

willaikit.

Go fast.

haum teets.

Stop here.

collo kene.

Encamp,

wispeix,

Sleep,

penemeek.

VOCABULARY.

Eat,

hipsh.

I hear,

en amachish.

You hear,

em amachish.

I unuersiand,

(3n amacus.

Come,

come.

I know.

en soko,

You know,

em soko.

He knows,

emim soko.

They know,

clahne tetokan soko.

I do not know.

waiitu en soko.

Talk,

tumtein.

Ride,

wyatcus.

Wait,

coats.

Swim,

shuway.

Love,

aitou.

Hate,

waiitu aitou.

Kill,

wilpscou.

Alive,

waikus.

Make,

ainees.

Take,

enip.

Carry,

enip coeta.

Give,

cnuhanim.

Pay,

tumaitcus.

Make fire,

ailix.

Worship,

tolla poosa.

Smoke,

keieta.

Sun, moon,

hasumtooks.

Prairie,

paix.

Mountain,

mashum.

Friend,

sextua.

Chief,

meohot.

Nez Perce,

numepo.

Blackfoot,

quasne.

Bonnax,

tuelca.

American,

sueapo.

397

398

Bi.!

III

\il

Sill

■1 } ,ii

i ■■ «;

i ' iiM

ii i

VOCABULARY.

Frenchman,

alllma.

Head,

hooshus.

Hair,

hookoo.

Arm,

artum.

Leg,

waiu.

Foot,

akooa.

Cloth,

tahea.

Saddle,

supen sapoos.

Pack,

supen saps.

Beads,

collowin.

Good,

tois.

Bad,

kapseis.

No,

waiitu.

Yes,

ai.

Great,

hemakis.

Small,

coots.

Sick,

comitsa.

Well,

penamina.

To-day,

tax.

Yesterday,

wktish.

Once more,

nox emaka.

White,

hihi.

Black,

cinmo cimmeo

Red,

ilpelp.

Vermilion,

ailish.

Paint,

penasuet.

1 nox.

10 poetumpt.

2 lapeet.

11 nox tit.

3 metait.

12 lapeet tit.

4 peelep.

20 laap tit.

5 pahut.

30 metaip tit.

6 elaix.

40 pelap tit.

7 quoenapt.

50 pahap tit.

8 wemuttut.

100 pooetap tit.

9 quoies.

VOCABULARY. 399

VOCABULARY OF THE

KLICATAT

NATION, WHO INHABIT THE

COUNTRY

NORTH OF

THE CASCADES.

English.

Indian.

God,

Meyoh.

Evil spirit.

melah.

Sun,

an.

Moon,

ulhigh'.

Stars,

kashlo.

Fire,

lokkowouks.

Earth,

te 'tsum.

Water,

chow wass.

Stone,

'p's swah.

Wood,

ii quass.

House,

enneet.

Bread,

shappleel.

Pish,

t'kuinnat.

Deer,

owinnat.

Bird,

'hat 'hot.

Cow,

moos moos stun.

Horse,

kosee.

Dog,

kosikkosee.

Boat,

quussass.

Man,

wince.

Woman,

iyet.

Girl,

p'teeniks.

Boy,

asswan.

Fingers,

pahhahtopat.

Foot,

wattekas.

Toe,

owhunghe.

Tongue,

melleese.

Ear,

misshu(plu.)pesahmisshu.

Mouth,

metolia'hhow.

Lip,

um, (plu.)pesah um.

Black,

•

chemook.

400

VOCABULARY.

White,

Green,

Yellow,

Red,

Good,

Bad,

High,

Low,

Many,

Few,

Little,

Who?

What ?

Knife,

Bow,

Arrow,

Gun,

Sea,

River,

Lake,

Mountain,

Hill,

Valley,

Plain,

Here,

There,

Near,

Far off,

Night,

Day,

Where,

When,

I walk,

I talk.

None,

pillas.

lahm't.

penahkunnootowa.ss.

klutsah.

seyah.

chilooeet.

'quaahme.

metee.

hugh'lak.

millah.

iksiks.

sindewah.

sinmisswah.

hahbittelme.

toominpass.

kiasso.

toowinpass.

attackass.

wannah.

wattum.

*ke'h.

pussque.

*tkop.

tak.

itche.

ekkone.

'tsahpah.

weat'tpah.

*tset.

echoosah.

minnan.

mittach.

inikwenahsah.

sinewesah.

chahow.

VOCABULARY.

I know.

assook sah.

I have known,

me we sah sooh sah.

I see.

enahukheno sah.

I hear,

innasick sah.

I taste.

quatas sah.

I smell,

annookse sah.

sah.

Thou,

imk'.

He,

equak.

She,

equakiik.

Head,

chlamtukh.

Eye,

tats'k.

Back,

koopkoop.

Come,

winnum.

Go,

winnak.

Give,

annik.

Large,

*nche.

Smaller,

mi'nche.

Smallest,

ooksooks.

Beauty,

seeghewah.

All,

k'lhweek.

True,

chawnumsisk.

False,

t'sis.

Chief,

kool'ltup.

Common men,

wullumteen.

My father,

hahtootas.

My mother,

naheclas.

Elder brother,

nahnahnas.

Younger brother,

incoks.

Sister,

inchats.

Husband,

inman.

Yes,

deh.

No,

waht.

Beaver,

wispuss.

Rabbit,

sinwe.

401

1:1

fZ VOCABULARY.

Cat,

wasswass.

Wolf,

enahte.

Bear,

*hollees.

Otter,

nooksi.

Laziness,

ilkkah.

Sleep,

'tsotah.

Soft,

uquatuquat.

Strength,

h'too.

Swan,

wahhalow.

Goat,

powyanin.

Beads,

k'pput.

Cold,

'tsoisah.

Hard,

kHtet'k.

1 lah's.

12 neep'twappena,

2 neep<t.

13 mettaptwuppena

3 mettapt'.

20 neeptit.

4 peneep't.

30 mettaptit.

5 pahhat.

40 peneeptit,

6 p'tuhninis.

50 pahhaptit.

7 tooskds.

60 p'tuhninsaptit.

8 pahhahhemaht.

70 tooskahsiiptit,

9 'tsawlawsimkah,

80 pahhahtusap'tit,

10 hotem.

90 'tsaulochsdptit,

11 lah'swappena.

100 potemtit.

VOCABULARY OE THE CALAPOOA NATION.

God, 'ntsompate.

Heaven, ahlupklooah.

Evil Spirit, ehwakehe.

Hell, owievenah.

Sun, 'npeun.

Moon, 'ntope,

Stars, 'ntsalowah.

Fire, ummi.

Earth, umpullo.

VOCABULARY.

Wind,

'ntolouh.

Water,

'mpahke.

Wood,

owattuk.

Stone,

'nt^ugh.

Bone,

*ntsa.

House,

ummi'.

Bread,

shappleel.

Fish,

'ntumuak.

Deer,

ammoke'.

Elk,

'ntokah.

Bird,

noknok.

Horse,

kuetan.

Cow,

moosmoos.

Dog,

'n'tul.

Boat,

'mpaw.

Man,

'noihee.

Woman,

ehwahktsut.

Boy,

ehwahpyah.

Girl,

*mpeena.

tsa.

Thou,

mah.

He,

annoihe.

She,

ahwahkkotsut

My father.

hum nee.

Your father,

makkan nee.

My mother,

sin nee.

Elder brother,

t^h.

Sister,

shetup.

Husband,

tahwahke.

Wife,

tahwahke.

Yes,

aw.

No,

kussowe.

Head,

unqu^h.

Mouth,

tinte.

Chin,

'tl4k.

403

404

VOCABULARY.

Teeth,

tinte.

Arm,

t'ntooque.

Hand,

t'lakquah.

Finger,

taw'nah.

Foot,

teuofoh.

Ear,

toandunkaht^h.

Black,

mo*.

White,

mow'.

Blue,

'mpulunk.

Green,

pitchish.

Red,

'tselow.

Good,

misso.

Bad,

kaskah.

High,

tshamayunk.

Low,

wkU&h.

Many,

milloe.

Few,

'mponuk.

Large,

pellah.

Small,

etoo.

Who,

me'eh.

What,

&nnikkee.

Knife,

'nkamistik.

Bow,

unchin.

Arrow,

un'owsuk.

Gun,

sukwjlllahlah.

Sea,

muUak.

River,

'ntsok.

Lake,

wassetnummeke.

Mountain,

peotahmefook.

Valley,

wallah.

Night,

mooyoo.

Day,

'mpeyon.

Here,

m'hn-h.

There,

pielan.

Near,

'mchillah.

VOCABULARr. 4

Far off,

m'lokkio.

Where,

mutchoo.

When,

tahnondeh.

To talk.

tanuk.

To walk,

owMlowah.

None,

'nwa.

I see,

chats'onhot'n.

Bea\er,

'nkipeah.

All,

teloh.

Chief,

'ntsombeek.

Common men,

anwoekee.

Come,

mahek.

Go,

tattea.

Give,

mahaque.

Swan,

mow.

Rabbit,

umpon.

Wolf,

molent.

Bear,

'mmo.

Sleep,

towi.

Hard,

'p'tsakkolloo.

Soft,

'mput'l.

Boil,

liplip.

1 towneh.

10 teeneefeah^h.

2 kamah,

11 teenefeahpetownah

3 peshin,

12 teenefeahpekamah.

4 tohwah,

20 keefotenefeah.

5 wul,

30 p'shintenefeah.

6 taffo,

40 tohwatenefeah.

7 p'sinmewe,

.50 wultenefeah.

8 ke'mewe.

100 tenefeah.

9 'quisteh,

1000 tumpeah.

405

VOCABULARY OF THE CHENOOK LANGUAGE AS SPOKEN
ABOUT FORT VANCOUVER.

God, Cannum.

Heaven, coosah,

406

VOCABULARY.

Aft ■

I 7'}

J II

Earth,

Fire,

Water,

Sea,

River,

Sun,

Moon,

Evil spirit.

Hell,

Boat,

Knife,

Gun,

Powder,

Ball,

Air,

Thou,
He,

She,

It or them,

Chief,

Boy,

Girl,

Sister,

Father,

Mother,

People,

Yes,

No,

Good,

Bad,

Very bad.

Large,

Small,

Far,

illaha.

olaptska.

isuck.

wecoma.

ibolt.

otlah.

ootleum.

skokoom.

conim.

opitsah.

sucwdliai.

poolalla.

colietan.

kummataz.

nika.

mika.

yahkah.

klaska.

tie.

kaskas.

I'kpho.

dhts.

tilecummama.

st'llmama.

tilecum.

ah, aha.

wayick or wake.

close.

wake close.

mestsa.

bias.

tunas.

sia.

VOCAULARY.

Little way,

tunas sia.

Great way,

bias sia.

To go fast,

clatua hiuc.

Not fast,

wake hiuc.

Black,

klaait.

White,

I'koop.

Blue,

spock.

Red,

pelpil.

Green,

peteish.

High,

saghalle.

Low,

kekulle.

Now,

witka. ■'

Much,

oghooway.

Little,

tunas.

Who,

'tkaksta.

What,

ikta.

Mountain,

saghalle illaha.

Valley,

kekulle illaha.

Where,

cah.

Here,

ookook.

Night,

pollakle.

None,

haloo.

Bear,

siano.

Beaver,

eena.

Fox,

tiskowkow.

Wolf,

leelo.

Deer,

moueech.

Horse,

kuetan.

Cow,

moosmoos.

Dog,

kamux.

Salmon,

quanagh.

Bird,

kallakalla.

Speak,

wawa.

I speak,

nica wawa.

Thou speakest,

mica wawa.

407

408

VOCABULARY.

He speaks,

They speak,

Make,

I make,

Thou makest,

He makes.

They make.

Come,

Perhaps, or 1 do not know

Understand,

I understand,

Now I understand,

Sleep,

I have, or it is with me,

I walk,

Long ago.

See,

Eat,

1 eght,

2 moxt,

3 none,

4 «lakit,

6 quinum,

6 tohhum,

7 sinnamox.

ykkkk w&wfi.

klaska wiiwd,.

mammook,

nica mammook.

mica mammook.

yukka. mammook.

klaska mammook.

chawko.

clunas.

cumetax.

nica cumetax.

alta nica cumetax.

moosom.

mitlit I iica.

nica cktuwa.

aunanutta.

noneneech.

mucamuc.

8 stoghtkin,

9 quiitz,

10 taughlelum,
20 moxtt^ghlelum,
40 'lakitt^hlelum,
100 taughlelum taughlelum

The Philologist, by examining the specimens of the lan-
guages in the foregoing vocubularies, will notice how en-
tirely distinct they are from each other, and may form his
own opinions in regard to their origin. The languages of
other Indian nations are equally distinct. The use of the
commas, as in <ke'h, mountain, 'noihee, man, is designed
to designate a guttural sound, wholly inarticulate.

)k.
ok,
look,
look.

letax.

im,
taughlelum

of the Ian-
ce how en-
ly form his
nguages of
use of the
is designed
te. *