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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peitvent dtre fiimts d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seul clich6, 11 est filmd d partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 ; ^ 1 2 3 \ « \ • • i JOURNAL OF AN EXPLORING TOUR BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE A. B. C. F. M. IN THE YEARS 1835, '36, AND '37 ; CONTAININQ 11 t- J r. '.I A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, PRODUC- TIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES : t li WITH A MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. i: •'! BIT RET. SAmVEIi PARKER, A. IH. wt'ii THIRD EDITION. ,.m A2~ ■i^ ITHACA, N.Y. MACK, ANDRUS, &. WOODRUFF. BOSTON : CROCKER & BREWSTER. — NEW-TORK : DAYTON & 8AXT0N ; C9LLINS, KEE8E, & CO. — PHILADELPHIA : GRIOG & ELLIOT. LONDON : WILEY & PUTNAM. 1842. ,rl Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Samuri. Parker, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the Northern District of New York. / MACK, ANDRUS, fc WOODRUFF, PRINTERS, ITHACA. I ' . • • • t • I • • • : • , I • ' • • f <• RECOMMENDATIONS. FROM H. HUMPHREY, O. D., PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE. I have read Mr. Parker's Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun. tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts and many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly instructive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am glad to learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is not a book of lofly pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high in. trinsic merit. The friends of the missionary cause, and of the abori- ginal tribes beyond the mountains, who have iiot yet seen this volume, have a rich reversion before tliem. H. HUMPHREY. Amherst College, ) Nov. 7, 1839. S 18, by )f tho FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, A. M., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE^ I am happy to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring Tour of Mr. Parker. EDWARD HITCHCOCK. FROM NOAH WEBSTER, L L. D. NEW HAVEN. New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839. Dear Sir, I have read the account of your journey over the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much valuable in. formation respecting a part of our continent, which is imperfectly ex- plored. I hope the publication of the book will amply reward your labors. N. WEBSTER. from JAMIvS RICHARDS, D. / D. PROFESSOR IN AUBURN THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. I have read the Tour of the Rev. Mr. Parker among the Western Indians, and was much gratified by his statements. His travels across the Rocky Mountains, and his visit to the far distant tribes beyond, are connected with many striking facts and incidents, which cannot fail to interest the inquisitive and reflecting. In my judgment, the work is calculated to benefit the cause of Science and of Missions. JAMES RICHARDS. Auburn, Nov. 14, 1839. Si^G i? RECOMMENDATIONS. " Tills is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes ricli food alike to the man of science and the unlearned. It is ono of the most deeply interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American press ; inasmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores of knowledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore has been but partially explored. This is a volume which commends itself to the careful perusal of men of every class, and, so marvellous are its truths, that it needs but the merit of being a work of fiction, to gain for it universal circulation." — Missionary Herald, Cincinnati. / j " Mr. Parker's observations on the geology and geography of the country tiirough which he passed are alone richly worth twice the cost of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work is a noble weapon ; to the advocates of Foreign Missions an unanswer- able evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new map from actual observation of the territory of the United States west of the limits of Missouri, and a lithograph exhibiting the extra- ordinary rock formation through which the Oregon has worn its way. The book is written in a plain, familiar style, and is intended to em. body only such facts as may be said to come absolutely within the knowledge of the author. We earnestly recommend it to the atten- tion of the entire reading public." — New Yorker, May 19, 1838. i Acknowledgements arc due to numerous editors of periodicals and papers who have given the work a favorable notice. ! / PREFACE. In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, the only apology, necessary to offer, is the hope of promoting a more extensive and particular knowledge, than has hitherto been furnished, of th • condi- tion of that important section of our country. The author's mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for obser- vation, being conducted with leisure, through one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irrecon- cilable witii a strict adherence to facts, and this scrupu- lous regard to truth is the principal merit claimed for the volume. The most of what is narrated came under the author's personal observation, and whatever is stated which did not, was obtained from gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for hones; v rnd candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well established. This source of information was available by collecting and comparing the statements of different indi- viduals, retaining what corresponded with his own observa- tion, or was well supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following work contains a grer.ter amount 2 ;i i i ! ( Vi PREFACE. of statistical information in regard to the country, and important facts, than is to be found in any production furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater ex- tent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and with the express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal population, this position cannot be considered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and their pub- lished narrative carries with it evidence of candor and in- telligence, and contains much valuable information; yet their opportunities for observation were somewhat limited. They passed over the great chain of mountains from the head waters of the Misoouri between the 4.'j° and 46° of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Coos- cootskee, and followed that river to its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river, wintered upon the south side of the bay, and early the following spring returned to the mountains by the same route which they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons who have published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and many of their observations upon different sections of the country are just, but they are deficient in statistical information, and their productions are mostly confined to personal ad- / litV PUiiFACE. ▼H / / '/ ventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfcot or Crow In- dians, starvation, and hair-broudth escapes. Justice to the public requires lidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not our business to originate facts, but to record them. The license given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone for impressions which are not in accordance with truth. While it was a leading object to become acquainted with the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposi- tion in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful at- tention was given to the geography of the country, with its productions ; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the va- rious aspects of its physical condition. The country here described is sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest, the widely extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and the results of volcanic agency which are met with in almost every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the traveler; and if any statements appear large, it is because the facts are so in themselves. It has been an object in writing this volume to compress as much as possible the amount of information, instead of M :■: I Vlll PREFACE. unnecessarily extending it, untl the hope is indulged, that while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened if it do not already exist, to benefit the original, the rightful owners, and with the exception of a few thousand fur tra- ders scattered in every direction over this territory, the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature. The map which accompanies the work has been prepared with much labor and care ; and though some minute parts are omitted, it will be found far more accurate than any which has before been published. In addition to my own surveys, I have availed myself of those of gentlemen con- nected with the Hudson Bay Company, in parts which I did not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancouver and the labors of other explorers for much that I have delineated of the North- West coast of the Pacific ocean, and the Islands. i K \v PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. The interest the public have taken in tliis work, evinced by tbc many liiglily commendatory reviews and notices, wiiicb liavo appeared in numerous periodicals, relijiious, sci- entific, and political, both in this country and in FiUrope, torjethcr with the sale of the first edition, has infiuenced the author to publish a second edition. Many persons, whose judgment, extensive knowledge, and piety, entitle them to bo held in high estimation, have encouraged him to believe that this work has been interesting to men of science, useful in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit of missions, and what is not the least to be valued, a sym- pathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon. As it was an object in preparing the first edition to com- press as great an amount of information as {)(>s,sible in the compass of a duodecimo volume, so in this — the same object has been pursued, and while some parts have been en- largod, others have been abridged. The whole work has been attentively revised and corrected. It is hoped that it will contribute its influence, however small it may be, in aiding the cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert the sentiment, that the acquisition of all knowledge 2* illP i! X PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. should be made subservient to this important use, and that the gold from any region, if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is of no real value, and whatever \vi 1 not directly or in- directly, nearly or remotely, concur in this great end, must at length endure the ultimate fate of that " knowledge which shall vanish away." Previous editions having been so well received, a third is now published, having undergone a careful revision, and some parts have been re-written, and additions have been made. It is hoped that it will be found not the less worthy of public favor. Ithaca, 1842. I -*•- ■■ — — ^ CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Eric, and Pittsburgh ; passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam- boat takes fire; Cincinnati; Falls of the Ohio; the Ohio river; Ohio and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers; Point Girardou; beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie; St. Genevieve, old custom ; Hcrculaneum; gambling on board the steam-boals; St. Louis; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontencllc 17 CHAPTER II. Leave St. Louis for Liberty; passage up the Missouri; snags; a walk on shore ; Jefferson citj' ; river scenery ; steam-boat Siam; sand bars; Lexington; steam-boat disaster; Liberty; Navahoe Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing provincialisms ; caravan commence their journey ; first en- campmcnt ; Iowa Indians ; Blacksnakc hills ; Nodaway river ; Elk ; cross the Neshnabotana ; rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana ; mode of living; mounds of the west; crossing of the Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries. CHAPTER III. Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curi. osity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; spas. modic cholera ; an Indian chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the country around ; Loups fork of the Platte ; manner of encamping; Big Ax, Pawnee chief; Indian feasting; fourth of July ; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm ; Indian ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle.snake ; buf. 2* 26 »: i\ Xll CONTENTS. t|. folo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; swiftness of antelopes; climate ; thousands of buffalo; badgers; prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or bea- con ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. CHAPTER IV. Black Hills; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of In- dians for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenccd our journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of worm- wood ; Red Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock In. dependence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through the mountains ; " thunder spirits" gone ; an alarm ; waters of the Colorado. ......... CHAPTER V. Arrive at rendezvous; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations; Flatheads and Nez Pcrces, no reason why so called ; surgical operations; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perc6 chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct. Whitman ; Shoshoncs and Utaws ; mountain life. CHAPTER VI. Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia ; kindness of the Indians; narrow defile; geology; Jackson's Hole ; wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain pros- pect; Trois Tctons; danger from affrighted buffalo; Pierre's Hole; volcanic chasm; children on horseback; interesting worship witii the Indians; burial of a child; scarcity of food; a timc'y supply ; Salmon river ; expected battle ; geological observations; scene of mourning. ..... CHAPTER VII. Salmon river; mineral salt; chimneys; forest trees, new species of pine ; geology ; sulphur lake ; a rare animal ; new species 43 G9 79 8C CONTENTS. xiii G9 79 86 of squirrels and pheasant ; came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia ; ferryman ; Basaltic formation ; fine climate ; arrive at Waila Walla 114 CHAPTER VIII. Description of Walla Walla; the kind treatment of the Indians by the Hudson Bay Company ; leave Walla Walla for Fort Van. couver; loquacious orator ; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse Indians; morning prospect; long rapids; Volcanic mountains; trial of Indian generosity; arrival at tlic Falls of the Columbia river ; rousing ctl'ccts of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading company; remarkable subsidence; Cascades; Clicnooks arc the Flathcads and Ncz Pcrces ; dangerous rapids ; Indian bu- rying places; Pillar Rock; interesting waterfall; sea fowl; arrive at Fort Vancouver. ....... 130 CHAPTER IX. Description of Fort Vancouver ; departure for Fort George and mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnomah : Wappatoo Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian friendship ; Pacific Ocean ; Gray's Bay ; Astoria. . . . 148 CHAPTER X. Description of Fort George; mouth of the Columbia; dangerous bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests ; excur- sion in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the entrance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship Isabella ; Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ; return to Fort Vancouvi ; ; the regard Indians show the dead ; Indian kindness 155 CHAPTER XI. Review of journeyings ; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk upon the pebbly shore ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; 'Ui i mi I XIV CONTENTS. i' Motliodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi- tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William, on tlic AVappatoo island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits : return to Fort Vancouver. 168 CHAPTER XII. Services on the Sabbath ; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver fur and farming establishment; garden productions, lumber ; com- merce; peltries; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste of life ; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; Chris. tian principle ; worldly principle. ..... 182 CHAPTER XIII. Indian population ; diseases ; mortality ; attributed to cultivation of the soil ; destitute of medical science ; holidays ; customs at home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish customs in punishment ; marriage contracts ; condition of the females; slavery ; division into tribes ; points of dissimilarity ; sac. rifices ; language 191 CHAPTER XIV. The various animals beyond the Mountains. 199 iCHAPTER XV. Fish ; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; den- drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ; valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons. . . 212 CHAPTER XVI. Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ; their persons ; dress; wealth; habits; physical character; man- ufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; su- perstitions ; medicine men. 228 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. The Indians of the lower country. XV 244 CHAPTER XVIII. Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ; early and mild season ; La Dalles Indians ; their anxiety to receive the gospel ; Nootka humming bird ; number and loca- tiop of the Indians in the lower country; Indians of the north ; the agitated question ; solitariness 256 CHAPTER XIX. Departure for the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympatiiy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; inter- esting meeting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass. 268 CHAPTER XX. Journey to the Nez Percd country ; funeral of a child ; natural scenery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; in- dustry of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking ; journey to Colvilc. ........ 280 CHAPTER XXI. Paloosc Indians ; Pavilion river ; extraordinary excavation ; lost on the prairie ; Indian principle ; Spokcin woods and country; Indian ferry ; Spokein valley; granite; volcanic curiosities; fer- tile valley ; worsliip with the Spokeins ; Mill river valley ; ar- rival at Fort Colvile ; description of the place ; leave Colvile for Fort Okanagan ; a mountain of marble ; Grand Coul<;, or old bed of the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long rapids ; ar- rive at Walla Walla 289 ■H XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXII. A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cas- cades ; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; stcam-boat ex- cursion 308 CHAPTER XXIII. Geology. 321 CHAPTER XXIV. General remarks ; IMctoorological table. 341 CHAPTER XXV. The voyage commenced for the Sandwich Islands ; passage in the Beaver down the river ; take passage in the barque Colum- bia ; detention in Chenook bay ; arrival at the islands ; worship in the native clvarch ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the valley ofManoa: description of Honolulu ; ofWaititi; heathen tem- ple ; Eva; Waialua; Koneohe ; mountains; salt lake ; geolo- gy; natural productions ; animals; government; tea party of the royal family ; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and En- terprise ; decrease of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign residents ; charity school ; seamen's chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; missionary success. .... 3.")7 CHAPTER XXVI. Departure from Oahu in ship Plicenix for the United States; call at the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo ; severe gales of wind : Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ; Trinidad ; arrival at New London. .... 378 PARKER'S TOUR. CHAPTER I. The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Eric and Pittsburgh — pas. sage to Cincinnati in the steam boat Ohioan — the steam.boat takes fire — Cincinnati — Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio river — Ohio and Kentucky — confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point Girardou — beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie — St. Gene- vieve, old custom — Herculancum — gambling on board the steam- boats — St. Louis — Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Fontenelle. The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical con- dition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession of the country, its future probable importance in a political view, its population and trade, have occupied much atten- tion. The Christian public have not been inattentive to the interests, moral and religious, of those whom the Grod of providence has placed in these remote regions, and who are without the blessings of civilization and Christianity. The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions ap- pointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain by personal observation, the condition and character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization among them. 18 PITTSBURGH. i i That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour- ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indif- ference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. Although it was painful to bid adieu to family and friends, unapprised of the events of the future, yet committing all to the gui- dance and protection of an all-wise Providence, the enter- prise was undertaken, without reluctance, on the 14th of March, 1835. Pursuing the journey by the way of Buffalo and Erie, I arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. The intervening distance to St. Louis, through the great valley of the west, had lost much of its novelty, having previously passed over it, and long since has it ceased to excite that de- gree of interest in the community, with which it was regard- ed before the numerous descriptions of the tourist and trav- eler had rendered its general features familiar. Only a passing notice, therefore, will be given. Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from its multiplied manufac- tories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, four hun- dred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The scenery of the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to the Missis- sippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, and culti- vated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 28th, we ar- rived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that day was disco- vered to be on fire in the hold, in which were a large quantity of combustible goods. This created great alarm. A very strong head wind blew the fire from the furnace down the hatchway, which, after removing some goods, had been J I I ( I V CINCINNATr. 19 carelessly left open. The captain immediately rounded the boat to the shore, and no sooner was it gained, than there was a p;eneral rush for safety. Some of the passengers threw out their baggage, and many leaped from the upper deck to the land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with considerable difficulty we disengaged the boat from its grounded position, and from the trees among which it was entangled, and we were again under way. Cincinnati is a large city for a country so new, and from its mature appearance would hardly be thought to have been tlie growth of only half a century. Its population, composed of emigrants from New England, the middle, and some of the southern states, and from various parts of Eu- rope, is consequently not very homogeneous in its character. Its schools and institutions of literature, promise much for the great interests of science and religion in this interesting section of our growing country. Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, for the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which, by water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. On the 30th, we passed Louisville, near which are the falls of the Ohio, twenty-two feet in height, and passable by boats only in high water, about two months in a year. To save the expense and delay of portage around the falls, a canal has been constructed on the south side of the river, two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep. The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls, it increases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irre- sistible current ; and you are anxious to know whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at •11 I ■i '1 ' > t '■> : 20 THE OHIO RIVER — OHIO AND KENTUCKY. them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, that while theii Your ■attention is fixed, their countenances are seren fears give way to emotions of the sublime. The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm below. The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bot- tom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass- ing through this part of the great western valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, exhibit the advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swifl-mo- ving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes the means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. The striking difference in the taste and habits of the people in- habiting the two sides of the river, was here veiy apparent. Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwellings are in the New England style, while on the Kentucky side, scattered here and there, you see the large log houses of the planters in a grade of architecture considerably above the log cabins of their slaves, by which they are surrounded, yet log houses still. These are built two stories high, with a wide airy hall through the centre, one of the lower rooms being the parlor, and the other serves the several purposes of a nursery, sleeping, and eating room. Open, frank hos- pitality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI. 21 a stranf^cr. I ofrered a lady in one of tliesc mansions some tracts, wliicli she at first declined with the enquiry, "Do you think we are heathen?" "No, niadain ; but tracts contain much that is interesting to all classes of peojjle, and after they are read, can be circulated among those who may not be well supplied with books." I saw but very few houses of worship, except in villa- ges. On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same form. Both appear to expand themselves into tlieir most majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to claim tlie superiority ; and when joined, they move on with united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, sur- rounded by a few miserable huts. To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and had he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men standinfir by, must have been drawn wholly in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon on board I oiHciated in dressing his wounds. Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus- try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and current. 3* ii- tl I iri 22 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. The fires of the prairies corning over tlie blufTs, presented a very pleasing scene this evening. These blulFs are two hundred feet iiigh, and extend one or two miles along the river. At a considerable distance they appeared like an illuminated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illusion was dissipated. The iires had advanced ziearly over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately ascending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect. A short stay was made on the third, at the landing of St. Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely by French, who are slow to depart from the customs and manners established by their forefathers, who have long since passed away. To adopt new improvements would be a step next to giving up their catholic religion and turning infidel. It is amusing to see the manner they yoke their oxen, and to learn the reason they assign for so doing. The yoke is composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened to the back side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that in this way, they save the whole power of the animal ; but tiwit the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their rea- soning may satisfy themselves, but would not the thorough, going New England farmer. To-day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situated on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis. It is almost surrounded by high precipitous hills, having only a narrow space for a village. There are several shot- towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which con- GAMBLING. 28 presented i arc two ilon<5 the I like an a nearer idvanced oderutely down in !ted from much to inding of ack from t entirely toms and onjj since be a step g infidel, xen, and yoke is the back that in nal ; but k to the heir rea- lorough- situated t. Louis. having ral shot- ich con. siderable business is done. Large quantities of lead, brought from the mines, are sold ami carried to distant markets. In travelling upon those waters it is painful to see how few books of any value there uro on boani the steam-ljoats. Some novels are found, Li t the monl nf them are of a licen- tious character. Thousands of those whu navigate these rivers are going to the judgment rrgardless of the intefents of their jouls, and most of them are destitute of the Bible. It gave great otfence to many, that we should have reli- gious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invitation. Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Obtruding religion — no place for such things." But profanity and gambling are no obtrusion ; they are always in time and always in place. Christiuns must keep religion out of sight and hear- ing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they please. Gambling is practised on board the steam-boats upon these waters to a very great extent, and is a favorite amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cul- tivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conver- sation. The number of black-legs who make gambling their business is great, and they are adepts in their profes- sion, as their success depends very much upon their skill in deception, and in decoying the inexperienced. On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis. This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Mis- souri, and in its local position resembles Albany, N. Y. The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river, and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, partly covered with shrubbery, back of which are open prairies. In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets 1' ■ y (I !■! 24 ST. LOUIS. are narrow. This may have been done to accommodate their propensity to be sociable, by enabling tliem to converse from the windows across the streets. The French popula- tion, with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted for their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their favourite amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this object, with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As gambling does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, enterprising men among the French population. Drunkenness is not common, and the temperance cause is doing much to remove wliat exists. Eastern enterprise and influence is gaining ground since the town has been brought under the laws of the United States ; and a new impulse is given to business. This is the central place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by the American Fur Company to a consider- able extent ; and also much business is done in lead, which is obtained at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and other water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost every description of character and nation, collect here, such as trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, as a starting point from whence to go into the still far west, many of whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky Moun- tains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are five houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman Catholic. The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light brown sand- stone, and is a large expensive building. The Protestant influence is increasing, and there are here many active, de- voted Christians, who exert a salutary influence upon the town and vicinity around. The population is fifteen thousand. L\ l: DR. WHITMAN. 25 Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here, who is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent out by the American Fur Company. Tlie caravan proceeds a very little ^eyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and supplies for their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping ; and returns with the furs which they have taken during the year. There are about three hundred men constantly em- ployed in and about the mountains, and more than sixty who constitute the caravan. With a much lesc number it would be unsafe to perform this journey, as there are hos- tile tribes of Indians on the way, viz : the Arickaras, the Crows, and Blackfeet. Having obtained permission of the principal agents of the company, Mr. Fontenelle kindly of- fered to accommodate us with such advantages as may be afforded in his caravan. Finding it necessary to leave this place to-day for Liberty, which is one of the most western towns in the United States, we were very busily employed in making preparation for the journey, and in calling upon and bidding farewell to Christian friends. A fire last night destroyed a very large livery stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle, and bridle. The old cathedral, which was used for a store-house, was also burnt, together with a very large quantity of crockery which it contained. '-M / •m'' ii i :[■ 26 ACCIDENT. CHAPTER II. Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri — snags — a walk on shore — Jefferson city — River scenery — Steam-Boat Siam — Sand bars — Lexington — Steam. Boat disaster— Liberty — Navahoc Indians — ride to Cantonment Leavenworth — amusing provincialisms — Caravan commence their journey — first encampment — Iowa Indi- ans — Blacksnake hills — Nodaway river — Elk — cross the Neshna- botana — Rich soil — rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana — mode of living — mounds of the west — crossing of the Missouri — Bellevue — Missionaries. At five o'clock, P. M. we went on board the steam-boat St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty miles ; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous to proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars in the Missouri. On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather slow progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which is twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St. Louis. This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north side of the river. The country around is interesting, and tlie 8oil of superior quality. An enterprising Christian popula- tion would make this one of the most desirable places in the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years of age, fell overboard, but, from the swiftness of the current, and as the boat was under full way, there was no opportu- nity to save him. He was seen floating a short time, but before the yawl could be loosed from its fastening, and 3 i JEFFERSON CITY. 27 js — a walk am — Sand LOG Indians cialisms — Iowa Indi- D Neshna- hnabotana Missouri — eam-boat ii* twenty Duri and »erous to bars in her slow which is with the t. Louis. )rth side and the popula- )laoes in years of current, :)pportu- nie, but ng, and manned, he sunk, and was seen no more. His mother, a widow, and her family, were removing from Kentucky to Franklin, Mo. The mother and the children lamented greatly and loudly. Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, Ave struck a snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we could not determine which it was, and it became necessary to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was mucli injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore. Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an elevation of several hundred feet. Hero we had a delight- ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled prairie and wood land, its cultivated spots, and its hills and dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter- posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could we return in the same way ? We were compelled, by de- scending backwards, to use much caution, and letting our- selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, and assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. We also visited a place, some distance below this, where Lewis and Clark encamped three days, the state of the river being such that they could not ascend with their batteaux. Many wild turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited shores. On the tenth, our boat discharged a part of her cargo at Port- land, a small newly built village. A fellow passenger, a merchant of this place, on landing, immediately put in re- quisition some thirty colored men, women, and children, who readily, without the aid of horses or carts, transferred his merchandise to its destination. The boat stopped on the 11th, at Jefferson city, the cap- i II 28 SAND BARS. '/ I ;l i * n iil! ital of the state, situated on the south side of the river, upon a high eminence, a little above the Osage river, It has a great name for so sinall a place. The state house is of a size which would be decent for a small academy ; and the governor's house would do very well for a common farmer's house in the country, but not such as we should expect for a governor in Jefferson City. But the state of Missouri is comparatively new, and this place may in time support its name. Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and en- deavored to observe the day according to the commandment. On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small villages, which have a country of rich land around them, and when it is brought under good cultivation, they must rise in importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along the shores are mostly oak and cotton-wood, with some hac- berry and buckeye, and it is interesting to see how easily and how deep they take root in the free rich soil along the river. Frequently, where the banks are washing away, the roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and generally there is only a large central root descending ten or twelve feet, with small ones branching out, presenting the appear- ance of an inverted cone. The river makes nothing of washing away, and forming islands. Sand bars and snags are so common, that, becoming accustomed to them, we hardly think of danger. We found the steam-boat Siam, on 14th, Captain L., at Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her freight and passengers, and returned ; both boats having so far discharged their freight, that one could proceed with the remainder. When under way, the boat run upon a sand A CONTRAST. 29 bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently threat- ening a disaster, but the quicksand of which the bar was composed, soon washed away, and we went ahead again. Running aground in this river is a very different thing from what it would be In most waters ; for the bars are so gene- rally formed of quicksand, that in most instances the current around the boat sets all clear. Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, We ran upon a bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we made only five miles before one o'clock, P. M. Called at Lex- ington, a village pleasantly situated one mile back from the landing, and surrounded by a fine country. We made only about fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so slow, that it would have been far more pleasant traveling by land ; and to have been free from imprisonment with shockingly pro- fane swearers and gamblers, most of whom are intemperate. It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another Sabbath, on board the steam-boat. How great a contrast to the sa- credness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Christian fam- ily circle ; or in the sanctuafy where God is worshiped in the great congregation ; or in the quiet, unobtrusive sabbath school, where attentive minds sit down to study the word of God, that they miay practice its precepts, and where the teachers are heard explaining and enforcing divine truth upon the young and tender conscience. As wc passed along, I saw many children standing on the banks of the river, and thought how benevolent persons at the east had desired their religious instruction, and how much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had failed to reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity and vice around them, by which they are educated for de- % if I !'■ <» V, ■•,-{•1 30 STEAM-BOAT DISASTER. m struction, and endeavored to ask the Great Benefactor of all to do that for them which it was not in my power to do. I contrasted in my mind the difierence between kindred souls in sweet communion in the service of God to-day, and the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms of this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his Christ. About the middle of the day, the captain and his men ap- peared to be given up to blind infatuation. Tho Siam was a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her first season. They appeared to regard no bounds in raising and applying steam. Such was the power under Avhich the boat labored, that she more than trembled. For a long time I expected some disaster, and looked at the captain to see if I could discover any apprehensions of danger. There was no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent spirits. Soon the disaster came, though less extensive than I had feared ; the main shaft, which was large and made of iron, broke, and farther progress was impossible. Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to find some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilderness shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and return with one wheel, like a crippled Avinged fowl. Two miles above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand bar high and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and being left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to be libera- ted. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that most of the accidents which happen to steam-boats take place on the Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would be long before they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards evening w«Vii (v i into u LIBERTY. »I a small neighborhood of Mormons, where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, which they call tlieir promised land, and to which they say they shall return. They are a poor deluded people, and when they speak of their persecu- tions, they seem not to possess the spirit our Saviour, who, when he was reviled, reviled not again, and when he suffered, threatf^ned not. We vode on the 21st, *vvelve miles to Liberty, through a very pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, well supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the year, when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter, appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flowers, and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the scene. I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A. Sponsa) which here were numerous ; the variety of its colors was adapted to the beauty of the scenery which surrounded us. And tlie sprightly deer did n€>t seem to accelerate its movements so much from fear, as from love of flight. Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a court- liouse of brick — several stores, which do considerable busi- ness, a rope-walk, and a number of decent dwelling houses. Continued in this place about three weeks, waiting for the caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men, korses and mules, and wagons, ar collected and put in read- iness ; and from this place commences the long journey for the west. V/hile we remained here, we had an opportunity to collect much information from those who have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to the country, mode of traveling, and concerning the various Indian tribes on the way. Captain Ford, and Lieutenant Stein from Fort it 'it'- 82 CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH. Leavenworth, were also here. They are both professors of religion, and ap{)ear to be well acquainted with the Indian country. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was out with the dragoons the last year — and was among the Paw- nee Picts. He gives a very favorable account of them, and thinks the way is open to establish a mission among them with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the way is prepared, or is preparing, for a mission among the Caman- ehes, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wish for peace and trade with the Americans. I saw also a Mr. Vaughn of this place, a Baptist professor, who has made two trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two years in that place. He gives a very interestii»g description of the Navahoes, a tribe who number about two thousand warriors. Their country lies between the Rio Del Norte and the eastern branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very considerable extent ; have large herds of cattle and horses, and flocks of sheep ; and have many domestic man- ufactures and houses of good construction. They are friendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr. V. thinks they would readily receive Protestant missiona- ries, and would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of their hostility to the Spaniards. He also speaks well of the Paches, or Apaqhes, a small tribe on the Del Norte towards old Mexico. These have been at war three years with the Spaniards. Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Cantonment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of the Mis- souri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United States. The way is through a fertile section of country, part of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are handsomely wood- ed, and, all well adapted to cultivation. I had an introduc- SINGULAR VIEWS. 88 tion to several of the officers, and made my home at Lieut. S's, an agreeable and religious family. I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention. There is a very considerable number of professors of reli- gion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a defi- ciency in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and some of the other officers appear disposed to maintain goixl order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence. I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take a view of the fort and the adjacent country. The buildings of the fort are situated within an enclosure around a large, beautiful square, which is covered with grass, and adorned with shade trees. The whole is on an elevation of a few huadre J feet, and has an interesting prospect of the majestic river flowing on silently below. The fertile country around presents a wide and fine prospect, and when settled by an industrious population, will equal the most favored parts of the earth. Liberty, and the surrounding country, is inhabited by people of considerable enterprise, and when it shall be brought under Christian influence, there will be but few places more inviting. There is but one Presbyterian min- ister in this county, a man of talents and very respectable attainments, who is exerting a good influence. The Bap- tists in this section of country are unlike those of the east. They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the day. Elder If. the pastor of the church in this place, invited Rev. Mr. Merril, a Baptist missionary, located among the Otoe Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him the first Sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, ap- 4+ n ,,"•■■' I- I ll 34 PROVINCIALISMS. 4 .M m prehensive that Mr. Merril would say something ahout the cause of temperance, or missionary efforts, and Ehler H. had to withdraw his invitation. They profess to act from Cliristian principles in refusing to give their minister any thing for support, lest they should make him a hireling. It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are common in this part of the country. If a person intends to commence a journey some time in the month, for instance, in May ; he says, " I am going in all the month of May." For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprinkle of people." The word *' balance," comes into almost every transaction — '* will you not have a dessert for the balance of your dinner ?" — " to make out the halance of his night's rest, he slept until eight in the morning." If your bagi^age is to be carried, it will be asked, '* shall I tote your jilnndir ?" This use of the word plunder is said to have originated in the early predatory habits of the borderers. They also speak of a "mighty pleasant day" — "a mighty beautiful flower" — " mighty weak." A gentleman, with whom I form- ed some acquaintance, invited me, when I should make " an outing" for exercise, to call at his hoube ; for his family would be " mighty glad" to see me. During our continuance at this place, we were hospitably entertained at the house of J. B. Esq., one of the judges of the county court. We were under many obligations to him and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but also for the privilege of retirement in so kind and intelligent a family. Nor would we be unmindful of the hospitality shown us by Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Y. May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced our journey for Council Blutl&, directing our course north- west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of the 'H INDIAN TRIBES. United States, and for the last time, for a long period tu come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family. The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian coun- try, and encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The sensations excited by the circumstances of our situation were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt ; in a wil- derness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, en- gaged in setting our tent, preparing supper .vith only a few articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, and bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I would not dispense with attention to decencies, because beyond the boundaries of civilization ; and having adjusted everything in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we re- tired ro rest. But how to adjust all the anxieties and feel- ings of the mind, so as to obtain the desired repose, was a more difficult task. On the 17th, I crossed over the east, or little Platte, which is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath with Mr. Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmental . black- smith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians of the Iowa, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian and his wife were noble-looking persons, having their faces painted with unmixed vermilion ; the former entirely, and the latter in stripes. They felt too important to be seen noticing what was transpiring around, and seemed to think themselves the only objects worthy of notice. Here is an excellent, fertile tract of country, and nothing discouraging for a missionary station, except the contami- nating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than on any other account ; for their game is mostly gone. One 4 ^ . 4 36 BLACKSNAKK HILLS. of them camo to Mr. Gilmoro to get some ploughs, and re- marked, " it is hard work to dig up our ground for corn by hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, who would not join Black Hawk in his war against the United States, and who are now afraid to return to their own country. Their condition is becoming more and more wretched ; for while they have not the knowledge, the means, nor much of the inclination necessary to cultivate their lands advan- tageously, they have an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits ; and there are too many unprincipled men on our frontiers, who, for the sake of gain, will supply them with the means of drunkenness and destruction. Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality, we rode on Monday, 18th, twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills. At this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, and an un- commonly fine farming establishment on the Missouri river. His buildings are on a small elevation of land, having a delightful prospect in front of more than a thousand acres of open bottom land, lying along down the river ; and hills on the north and east partially covered with woods. What has nature not wrought without the labor of man ? The herds of cattle, and other domestic animals, have as wide a range as they choose, and fences are necessary only to secure fields for cultivation. The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon which the dead are placed in rudely constructed coffins overspread with skins. Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre- ferring the field to the house, where I might have been sub- jected to many kinds of annoyances. For several days nothing special occurred.^ On the 22d, ! i 'i'i'l ! -I f i CONSTRUCTION OF A RAFT. 87 i, and rc- r corn by ho would }d States, country. 3hed ; for lor much Is advan- it spirits ; frontiers, he means )spitality, ike Hills. id an un- Liri river. having a nd acres and hills What ? The as wide ,'• only to of their m which srspread )ut, pre- 3en sub- the 22d, we tM'ossed the N(wlaway river with a raft ; the construction of whioji, and truiisporting our l)a«j:<,'U^Mi, occupitMl most of the day. To construct a itaft, a number of dry logs are collected, anlished among them with fair prospects of suc- cess. The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of about two thousand people. Their village is to be located on the Verri^jiiJon river, where it unites with the Missouri from the ncM rt ftV Maj. P. thinks this will be a very eligible place for ^^ssionary station, and says he will do all in his powc? to aJwsuch an enterprise. The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at the confluence of the L'eau qui coytre, number six or pight hundred, and speak the same language as the Oinahaws. The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux river and that on the south of the Ucau qui courc, as high as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed under the general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhabited by the following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, already men- tioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east and west from the Missis- sippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far south as the river Platte. The real numberfflpjie several bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but profe^^£ it is from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wandering, an15 they rely ex- clusively upon the chase for ^bsistence. Their principal trade is in buflalo robes. The traders have for many years maintained a friendly intercourse with them, and generally speaking, they are much attached to white men. ii* # 1 46 THE SPASMODIC CHOLERA. ^ :. I ~iSli'<" ■'^. ^ • ^ ill! •■ K\ The Mandans are a much more stationary people thW ahnost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is good ', but on account of repeated ill treatment, vvljich they have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious, and are losing confidence in white men. Our stay in this place had been protracted much beyond our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival the spas- modic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignity. The weather was very warm, and there were showers from day to day. The intemperate habits of the meHmand their 'manner of living, probablj' had a tendency to TWbpe the disease. Three of the company died; and severaW k hers barely survived, through the blessing of God uponTTO as- siduous attentions of Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the free . use of powerful medicines. And, had it not been for his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and the caravan would have failed of going to the place of ren- dezvous. This was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged. This alarming disease was the means of effecting our de- parture sooner that it otherwise would have taken place. It was necessary to hasten to the higher prairies, as the only prospect of escaping the io-rther ravages of the dis- ease. Not a single new case occurred after we recom- meneed our journey. This afflictive scourge, so far as it respected Dr. W. a^^Hself, was providential. The as- sistance we rendered J^^RK, and the medical skill of the Doctor, convened those into permanent friends, who had so disliked the restraints whiJb our presence imposed upon them, that, as they afterwards confessed, they had- plotted our death, and intended on the first convenient occasion to put their purpose in execution. % ^ '% f 't MURDER OF A CHIEF. 47 cople t)i|UH luntry, ami ig thein is ^vhich they su-spicious, ich beyond il the spas, malignity. 3wers from mind their eraBfc t liers Donliro as- Lte, and the ot been for x;rsed, and ace of ren- lowledged. ng our de- ken place, •ies, as the jf the dis- we recom- 5o far as it The as- kill of the vho had so »osed upon lad- plotted iccasion to ieY ' Whilst at Bellcvue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half- blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or seven men, half intoxicated, went down to his house in the night, called him up, took liim away a half mile, and shot him with six balls, scalped liim, and left him unburied. The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will remember this, and probably take revenge on some inno- cent persons. Tliis, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are often produced. While wc charge the Indians with invete- rate ferociousness and inhuman brutality, Vife forget. the too numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon them, which incite them to revenge. They cannot apprehend and do justice to such offenders. Or if they could, would it not be publislied as a gross Indian murder and aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced against them. When Indian, ofiences are proclaimed, we hear only one side of the story, and the other will not be heard until the last great day. M0nd4^, June 22d. After so long delay, we re-corn- menced our journey for the " far west." The Black Hills are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started yesterday. We passed over a rich extensive prairie, but so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream through the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, cold rain, in consequence of which I became much chilled. Overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a high prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it was dif- ficult to make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of corn, and some bacon for supper. Th^ change from the •PI "'' J/l 48 A STORM. \ ! il' 1 1' comforts to the hare necessaries of life was trying ; hut when I had wrapped myself in my hlankets and laid down upon the ground to repose for the night, I felt thankful to God for his goodness. ' Being now heyond all wiii'e inhahitants, in an Indian country, and not knowing what the eventful future may unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests for the good of the perishing h oathen, if I could be instru- mental, of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life or death, I thought I could say, ''thy will be done." Felt "M'Qng confidence, tl.at (4od would protect aiid provide for us, ;and derived great consolation from the promise, " Lo, I am with you always." The very pelting of the storm upon our, tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to awaken the feeling that God wis near. On the 23d, the storm stilf continued, and we did not re- move our encampment. Towards noon on the 24th, went forward on our wav and crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much delay to get the baggage, wagons, and animals over. We did not find ^ suitable place for encamping where we could be ac- commodated Vv'ith wood and Water until about su|^et^' and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which had been gathering ibr a long time, came down upon us with great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The ani- mals of the caravan fled in different (^'ections, some packed and some unpacked. I had only time to unpack my mule aud let him go, and it was with much difficulty I could hold my horse, which had become almost frantic under the beat- ing hail, nor did I escape without some contusions. The lightning was very frequent, and the thunder was almost one continual roar. After a while the fury of the storm A FRIKNDLY JIEETING. 49 abated, and in the dark wc pitched our tent and got our baf^ffaifc into it, but were not able to make a lire. We took such supper as we could provide with our coarse bread and bacon, without light and without fire, and laid ourselves down to rest. During the night there wore several showers whicli created rivulets, some of whicli found their way un- der our tent. Towards morning wc slept, and arose some- wliat refresiied. The morning of the 25tii was very pleasant, and atTorded a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the caravan to collect together their packs of goods, which were scat- tered over the prairie. After having spent the forenoon in drying and adjusting them, we went forward and arrived at the Ellii''r, a very considerable river. For conveyance over this river, we constructed a boat of a wagon body, so covered with undressed skins as to make it nearly water tight. The method was very good, and we commenced crossing, ; ut night came on before we finished, and there- fore we encamped on the east side. The country here is excellent, and tolerably supplied with wood. On the 26th, continued carrying over our baggage, and finished crossing at half after twelve, after which we trav- eled ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the night. On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey, and made good progress until three, P. M. when we met Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, re- turning from the Blaw Hills. When mountain traders meet under such circumstances there nmst be mutual ex- changes of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated than can be gone through with in the parsing '* how do you do." The two caravans encamped, in due form, and at a respectful distance from eacii other^ i ■"rl :lli t ■ I. US ' i\ !■ 50 FUTUIIR PROSPECTS. i I Si, 1 iSabbatli, 28tli. TIic caravans continued here tlirouf^li the (lay. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to attend to devotional exorcises in our tent. On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance up Shell creek. As a traveler, I should bo guilty of neglect . of duty, if I should not give a description of this section of 1^ country, belonging to the Otocs on the cast, and the Pawnees on the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed the Elkhorn, between this river and the Platte, which are here about ten miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is rich bot- tom land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. No country could be more inviting to the farmer, with only one exception, the \vant of wood land. The latitude is sufficiently high to be healthy ; and as the climate grows warmer as we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped moun- tains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced east of the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and proba. bly is not far distant, wjien this country will be covered with a dense population. The earth was created for the habita- tion of man, and for a theatre, on which God will manifet'l his perfections in his moral government among his moral creatures, and theJrefoi'e the earth, according to. divine pre- diction, shall be given to the people of God. Although in- fidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accom- plish his designs, and fulfil evfery promise contained in bis word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will not continue to be the Vvandering ground of a few thousand Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation ; nor will ixiillions pf tons of grass grow up to rot upon the ground or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disincumber it of its spontaneous burden. The herds of bufiblo which once fattened upon these meadows \n Loui's i'okk: of tiik tlattk. r.i ion : nor are goiio ; uiid \\\v deer which otico cropped the gruss have disappeared ; and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall solitude reiun here till the end of time ? No: hero shall be heard the din of'busineHS, and the churcli-11 important that the missionary be able to speak to the ' ■u h n in the llanguage wherein they were bom. It is also important that the Indians settle down and cultivate the soil ; but how can they be induced to do this before they are taught ? Do any say, by an interpreter ? An interpreter may be employed for awhile, but the missionary must be- come, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can he not learn the Indian language as well as the trader and hunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-denial. On the sixth, we left the Loups fork, very early in the morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our course south-west for the Platte river. Towards evening, we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, "which continued through most of the night ; but, protected by our tent, we slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us ; and in our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a sensible loss. ' ;l 56 BIG AX, A PAWNEE CHIEF. J: • 11 ' ' After we eame to the Platte^ we pursued our way up the river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indi- cates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility, but still is very good. We were prevented from making the progress we might have done, if the Indians would have permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of the cara- van began to complain of the delay, and had reason to do so, having nothing to eat but boiled corn, and no way to obtain any thing more before finding buffalo. The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good, but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments, and not having the means of gratifying their vanity as civilized peo- ple have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their persons ; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers, and claws of witd beasts ; the claws of a grizzly bear are an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves are in high estimation. But their most universal and particu- lar ornament is painting their faces with vermilion. These heathen, like all others, arc ignorant of the benign influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old men and women. The women are compelled to do all the work — the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few horses, when they journey, they place burdens upon the old men and women, and even upon the blind and lame — and their dogs. I did not see among these Indians a single person having any natural deformity, nor any one who appeared to be de- ficient in common sense. July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse with any man and tell him about the Savior, and, from the ex- 1 F c t t f n ATTEMPT TO MURDER. 67 pression of his countenance, I thought he desired to be in- structed. But the gift of tongues was not imparted to me, and we could only converse with the language of signs, which is far more intelligible than I had anticipated. Capt. Fontenelle, by a large present, purchased of the In- dians the privilege of going on to-morrow without them. Our men could hardly have been kept in subordination, if they had not consented. Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncommon storm of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and mules could not be controlled, and turned and fled in all di- rections before the storm. The whole caravan was scattered over the prairie ; but when the storm abated, they were again collected without much difficulty, and nothing was lost. If any hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would have been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for our defence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand and truly sublime. Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God is our preserver, and how desirable it is, that his mercies should be had in grateful remembrance, and that the portion of time, which he has set apart as holy, should be observed as such. The caravan travelled a part of the day, but were under the necessity of stopping in consequence of rain, which wet their packages. It is worthy of notice, that there have been vari- ous providences, which have thus far prevented them from traveling much upon the Sabbath. But this day has been one of great confusion and wickedness. In consequence of the men being drenched with rain, whiskey was dealt out freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of them became much excited, and one, who took an active part in killing 6* ili'Ml .r :l'l '':', '. ■'" Hi mi]M m : M 58 MEDICINAL PLANT. I !i r. , Garrio, stabbed a man, with full intent to have pierced his heart ; but the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside and ^ ily made a deep flesh wound. I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in his tabernacle. July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor a solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, that have the appearance of being under good cultivation. We see no fields of grain, secured from the beasts of the earth by fences, nor habitations of civilized men, but meadows adorned with a great variety of plants, some of which ap- pear to be gregarious. Often some acres are diversified with great variety of colors and species. There are two species of plants which are said to be a sovereign remedy against the poison of the rattle-snake, the virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing. One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew it the poison had so far progressed, that both the foot and leg had become much inflamed and very painful. One of these plants was applied to the parts affected, and at once the man was convalescent, and in a few hours was well. The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue flag, except that they are serrated. The healing properties are contained in the roots, which are bruised and applied to the affected parts. Rattle-snakes are net numerous. These and other reptiles are prevented from multiplying, by the fires which every year run over the prairies. On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer- fulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was no indifferent event. From the immense herds of these wild ani-^ BUFFALO, THEIR APPEARANCE. 59 m mals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature, we were to derive our subsistence. Although several were seen to- day, yet our hunters were not successful in obtaining many. I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lan- cet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off*, the blood immediately gushes ou' Vhen the caravan is in close company, there be aboi vo hundred horst ' .. mules, the number of the flies are so divided that they are more tolerable ; but when for any purpose a horse is separated from the company, he is severely bitten by them. On one occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing place over a deep muddy stream of water, they came around my horse in such swarms that he became frantic, and I was obliged to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse left alone in the season of these flies would be killed by them. The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, neck, and heads, make a very majestic appearance, and if their natures were unknown, would be terrific. But they are timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure any person, except in self-defense, when wounded and closely pursued. Their strength is great ; and, although they look clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a horse of more than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any considerable time. The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight ; but at a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom lands, bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scenery. The '■V w ;;u 1 .1, 1.' I'.'* ^m ''-m m 60 DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS. i -i entire absence of forests in a large space of country around, is a deficiency which cannot be v .sily supplied ; but prob- ably forest trees might be cultivated to advantage. Is it not highly probable that mineral coal will be found here as well as upon the prairies in the western states ? We found no wood yesterday, nor to-day, a; ' probably shall not for some days to come ; and therefore we have been under the necessity of making our fires with the dry dung of the buf- falo. The most thoroughly weather-beaten is selected, and proves to be a better substitute for common fuel than we Flad anticipated. Although we are now where we had fears of finding the Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief has been mentioned, and who have been' residing near this place for several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone far up the south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United States dragoons, under the command of Col. Dodge, who are on their way to call them to account for their conduct towards white men, and to f; with them a treaty of peace. But they intend to keep out oi the way of the dragoons, and therefore we hope to pass unmolested. We took our course up the north-west Fork of the Platte, and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the sentinel's fire, we might in less than a moment be ready for action ; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the first breaking of the day we were awakened with the cus- tomary call of the guide. 1 H . ANTELOPES. ei Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, and nearer than previously. They are less shy than those we first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but less beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous, and their speed exceeds that of any animal I have ever seen. Our hounds can do notlung in giving them the chase ; for the dogs are so soon left far in the rear, that they do not follow more than ten or twenty rods, before they return, looking ashamed of their defeat. Our liunters occasionally take some by coming upon them by stealth. When they are surprised, they start forward a very small space, then turn, and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at the object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whis- tling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far more beau- tiful. Tl;iough they are of different colors, yet they are generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent eye. Their flesh is good for food, and about equal to venison. July 17th. We did not go on our way as early this morning as usual, having been detained by breaking an axle-tree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming more hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to the river. Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction, and they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pas- ture. The thermometer stood at noon at 88°. Encamped a little below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars scattered over them, which promise a better supply of fuel. Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c. it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of conn. ^'A m ■I- . i. ■ ■I- 1 'haji' ' m .1 . f^i m -$ « 62 SHOOTING BUFFALO. I;! !' J try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New England States. As we advance, the flowering plants are becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the day is very warm, yet tlie nights and mornings are more cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not per- ceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of light brown oolor is found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which might be easily worked and to any extent. Very small black gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, have been nu- merous and very annoying, and for several days we rode with silk handkerchiefs closely tied over our faces to pro- tect us from their poisonous bite. July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day, and our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at them ; but it was well for the buffalo that they made poor shots. I can hardly reconcile it with a good conscience, to trifle with the life even of the most insignificant animals, yet, for once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my horse in the chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, and would have rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, had I not held him in check. At that time, not being sufficiently acquainted with this species of amusement, and intending to make sure of my victim, I dismounted in order to take a more steady aim than I could have otherwise done ; and by so doing, as our guide afterwards informed me, placed myself in imminent danger ; for the animal, if wounded, often turns upon his aotagonist to retaliate his injuries. Fortunately, though I wounded one, he did not rise upon me, and I re- turned to the caravan unconscious of danger. Badgers mhabit this part of the country, and from the many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell. BADGERS — PRAIRIE DOGS. 63 I re- the Iwell- ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their burrows, and run into them on the least approach of danger. The badger is of the genus ursus, about the size of the mar- mot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery gray color, with short legs, and its whole aspect is interesting. I did not have an opportunity to learn many of its habits. A small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in this section of country. It takes its name, not from its appearance, but from its barking, which is like that of a very small dog. It is of a brown color, and its fur is of superior fineness. It is very shy and difficult to be taken. Was it not for this last circumstance, I should think it might be an important article or traffic. We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting bluffs composed of indurated clay ; many of them very high, with perpendicular sides, an i of almost every imaginable form. Some appeared like strong fortifications with high citadels ; some like stately edifices with lofty towers. I had never before seen any thing like them of clay formation. And what addb to their beauty is, that the clay of which they are composed, is nearly white. Such is the smoothness and whiteness of the perpendicular sides and offsets ; and such the regularity of their straight and curved lines, that one can hardly believe that thej'^ are not the work of art. It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at noon, at 90°, and at five o'clock, P. M. at 100°. There were no prairie winds as usual. Almost every day winds blow over the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. They gene- rally commence about eight in the morning, and continue through the day. These winds render the traveling com- fortable, although the thermometer may range high. 1. MM n 64 THE OLD f'ASTLE. I'm ! Wc encamped to-day in the iioighborliood of a great nat- ural curiosity, which, for the sake of a name, I shall call the old castle. It is situated upon the south aide of tho Platte, on a plain, some miles distant from any elevated land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width of the river, all the appearance of an old enormous building, somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing walls, the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and almost the very windows ; and large guard-houses, standing some rods in front of the main building. You unconsciously look around for the enclosures, but they are all swept away by the lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but they have disap- peared ; all is silent and solitary. Although you correct your imagination, and call to remembrance, that you are beholding the work of nature, yet, before you are aware, the illusion takes you again, and your curiosity is excited to know who built this fabric, and what have become of the by-gone generations. I found it impossible to divest myself of such impressions. The longer and the more minutely I ex- amined it, the more I saw to admire ; and it reminded me of those descriptions of power and grandeur in ruins, of ■which we read of ancient times and nations. Encamped at noon of the 22d, near another of nature's wonders. It has been called the chinmey ; but I should say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance to what was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to have a near view, although in a land of dangers, I concluded to take an assistant and pass over the river to it. The river where we crossed was about a mile wide, shallow and full of quicksand, but we passed it without any difficulties. We rode about three miles over a level plain, and came to the AN ALARM. 65 ■at nat- lU call of tho levatcd is more vidth of uilding, i; walls, nost the me rods ily look y by the 3 disap- correct you arc aware, "(cited to } of the lyself of dy I ex- ided me uins, of lature's should nblance to liave luded to ic river ,nd full We e to the base. Thi'^ distanco from the other side of tlin river did not appear more than a mile, so deceptive arc distances over jdaiiiH without any lamhiiarks. 'I'his beacon hill has a conical formed base of about half a mile in circumference) and one hundred and iifty feet in jjoijiht ; and above this a \ perpendicular column, twelve feet s(juare, and ei and at once we saw a band of men coming full rush. We put our horses to their utmost speed, and wu n we thought our retreat to the river fully secured, we stopped and took an observation with a large spy-glass, which we had taken the precaution to have with us. and found they were white men, who had come from h Ibrt of the American Fur Company at the Black Hills, to meet the caravan. Mr. Fontenelle, the commander of the caravan, saw the move- 7 ■U« 1. 1 66 SCOTT S BLUFFS. : ||jj ;;| ment, was alarmed for our safety, and came out in all haste, with a number of armed men to our assistance. Rut all re- sulted in friends meeting friends. There were some Ogal- lallah Indians near us, who came to our camp in the even- ing. Thermometer 90°. On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped near Scott's blufFs. These are the termination of a high range of land running from south to north. Thev are very near the river, high and abrunt, and what is worthv of notice, there is a pass through the range a short distance back from the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular sides two or three hundred feet high. It appears as though a part of the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a few rods to the north. Instead of journeying, the naturalist would desire weeks to examine the interesting scenery of this sec- tion of country, and the more minute his examination the more would he find to gratify his curiosity. This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some places in large quantities in a crystalized state. Our hor- ses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90°. While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were alarmed with the call, " secure your animals ! secure your animals !" I looked around to discover the cause of the alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half distance, some thirty or forty Indians coming on horseback at full speed. We had not more than half secured our animals and pre- pared for defence, when the Indians were close upon us ; whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they werf> VM THE OGALLALLAHS. 67 nearly within rifle shot, when, according to the customary expression of friendship, they fired their guns into the air, and then rushed into our camp, and exchanged salutations of peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their chiefs, clad in their war habiliments, and presenting some- what of a terrific appearance. The chiefs dined with us, and v.ere very talkative among themselves ; for, not hav- ing any good interpreter, we could not join in conversation with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly, aiid to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole village was only a few hours travel ahead of us, going to the Black Hills for the purpose of trading. On the *25th, the heat was very oppressive in the middle of the day, there not being as much wind as usual. Ther- mometer 92®. Towards evening, we came to the main vil- lage of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two thou- sand persons. These villages are not stationary, but move from place to place, a^s iaclination or convenience may dic- tate. Their lodges are comfortable, and easily transported. They are constructed of eight or ten poles about eighteen feet long, set up in a circular form, the small ends fastened together, making an aj)ex, and the large ends are spread out so as to enclose an area of about twenty feet in diame- ter. The whole is covered with their coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when they are not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre, a hole being left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to pass out. All that they have for household furniture, clothing, and skins for beds, is deposi- ted around according to their ideas of propriety and conve- nience. Generally not more than one family occupies a lodge. These are the finest looking Indians I have ever seen. The men are generally tall and well proportioned ; J-'ifl 'M ■ % 68 A SABBATH AMONG THEM. 1 I "«',ti the women are trim, and less pendulous than is common among Indian women, and all were well dressed and clean- ly. They came around us in multitudes, and manifested great curiosity to see whatever we had. I did not know why, but my boots were particularly examined ; probably they had never seen any before, as moccasons are worn, not only by Indians, but also by traders and hunters. Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal- lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason why I was differently employed from others. I endeavored to make them understand by the language of signs, that I was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to wor- ship him. After spending some time in teaching them to read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn, which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand, and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, we want to know what all this means. My spirit was pained within me, and I anxiously desired to understand their lan- guage, that I might tell them about Christ, the only Savior. The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, why will not some of the many Christian young men of the east, exercise so much self-denial, as to come and teach them the way of sal- vation ? In such a labor what Christian would not glory ? And if there should be any tribulations attendant on the enter- prise, would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations ? At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped near the fort in our usual form. P": Iv BLACK HILLS. 69 CHAPTER IV. Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo dance — the desire of Indians for instruction — met the chiefs in council — recommenced our jour. nsy for rendezvous — anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red Bute — traces of grizzly bears — geology — Rock Independence — Rocky Mountains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains — " thunder spirits" gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado. The Black Hills do not derive their name from any thing peculiar in the color of the soil trnd rocks of which they are composed, but are so called from being covered with shrubby cedars, which give them a dark appearance when seen at a distance. The alluvial soil upon the rivers and in the valleys is very good, but upon the higher lands and hills, it is thin and rather barren, and in many parts full of stones, which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur of the Rocky Moun- tains is seen from this place, which is forty or fifty miles distant, and is probably five thousand feet high. At this place the caravan halted, and according to imme- morial usage, the men were allowed a " day of indulgence," as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits as much as they please, and conduct as they choose. Not unfrequently the day terminates with a catastrophe of some kind, and to-day one of the company shot another with the full inten- tion to have killed him. The ball entered the back, and came out at the side. The wounded man exclaimed, •' I am a dead man ;" but after a pause, said, " No, I am not hurt." The other immediately seized a rifle to finish the work, but 7* if ifl ^1 iij ■ St I If f ( i 1'.''' I ¥ ■ 'm IILIIiil ro BUFFALO DANCE. was prevented by the bystanders, who wrested it from him and discharged it into the air. July 28th. Tiie day of indulgence being past, a quiet day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by conse- quent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so high yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The men were seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could scarcely be moused to the business of making repairs and arrange- ments for the long journey yet before us. The Indians were active, and manifested a disposition to be sociable and kind, and also to open a trade with us in various articles, such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; and desired in return, knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c. Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer stood in the middle of the day at 98*^, but the heat was relieved by the usual prairie wmds. On the 29th, the Ogallallah Indians who accompanied us, liad a buffalo and a dog dance, the real object of which I could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from some superstitious notion that their success in hunting de- pended on these lites, or whether the custom originated in the gratitude of their hearts for past successes, or more pro- bably as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I wit- nessed the first mentioned ceremony, and was content to dispense with the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large number of young men, dressed with the skins of the neck and head of buffalos with their horns on, moved round in a dancing march. They shook their heads, imitated the low bellowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same time men and women sung a song, accompanied with the beating of a sort of drum. I cannot say I was much amused to see how well they could imitate brute beasts, while ignoranv THE OGALLALLAHS. 71 of God and salvation. The impressive enquiry was con- stantly on my mind, what will become of their immortal spirits ? Rational men imitating beasts, and old gray-head- ed men marshaling the dance ! and enlightened white men encouraging it by giving them intoxicating spirits, as a re- ward for their good performance. I soon retired, and was pleased to find that only a small number of the Indians took any part in the dance. An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, came to me again to-day, and manifested that he wished me to instruct him. I endeavored to communicate to his mind some ideas of God, and sang the hymn, " Watchman, tell us of the night." He and those with him, shook hands with me as a token of their satisfaction, and left me. He soon returned, however, bringing others, that they too, might hear what he had heard with so much apparent pleasure, and they again shook hands with me. This was several times repeated. These Indians appear not only friendly to white men, but kind in their intercourse with each other, and in no instance did I witness any quarrels among them. Their minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, their per- sons are finely formed, and many of them are truly " na- ture's grenadiers.'"' The women arc graceful, and their voices are soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised to see tall young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode, walking arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I had not expected to see among those whom we term "savages." It is true that they are heathen, in all the guilt of sin and destitute of the knowledge of God, and the hopes of the gospe\. but in politeness and decency, as well as in many other respects, they ajre very unlike the frontier Indians, who have been corrupted and degra- • |[||;i'' ■dm ■ m • :ti '.' i ',1 \il ■•' ' ' . iS'i 72 COUNCIL WITH THE SIOTJX. ded by their acquaintance with ardent spirits, and wicked white men. On the 30tli, we met in council with the chiefs of this tribe, to lay before them the object of our tour, and to know if they would wish to have missionaries sent among them to teach them to read and write, and especially how to worship God. They expressed much satisfaction with the proposal, and said they would do all they could to make their condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, that this community of the Sioux would be a promising field for laborers. They are inquisitive, and their language is dis- tinct and sonorous. On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81°. August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, we re- commenced our journey, and the next point to which we direct our course is across the Rocky Mountains, where the general rendezvous will be held. Our wagons were left at the fort of the Black Hills, and all our goods were packed upon mules. Several of our company went out into various parts of this country to hunt and trap, but as many more joined us for the mountains, so that our number is not diminished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped at the fort, and Mr. Fitz Patrick took his place in charge of the caravan. We had received during our journey to this place, many kind attentions from Mr. F. as well as the privilege of traveling under his protection, for which we otfered him a remunera- tion, but he declined it, saying, " If any one is indebted, it is myself, for you have saved my life, and the lives of my men." We shall gratefully remember their kindness. Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devo- tional exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God's house. 'iW ANTHRACITE COAL. 73 We found on the 3d but very little grass for our horses and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil, the proximity of the snow-topped mountains, and the gra- zing of numerous herds of butfalos and antelopes. To save distance in following the bends of tlie river, we passed to-day over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I had found, before I arrived at the Black Hills, some loose .specimens of anthracite eoal on the banks of streams, but to-day I found a regular ^^ cropping out' ^ of coal, the same to all appearances as I have seen in the coal basins of Penn- sylvania. The existence of a coal basin here is also con- firmed by indications of iron ore. Certainly an invaluable substance, should it prove abundant, to the future inhabi- tants of a country so destitute of other fuel. This was the first discovery of coal in this region. A range of mountains, a spur of which is seen from Larama's fork in the Black Hills, runs parallel with the river, ten or fifteen miles dis- tant, and some of the peaks are very high. August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. I discovered more anthracite, indicating large quantities ; also, in one place, yellow sand stone of remarkably fine texture. It undoubtedly would answer an excellent pur- pose for polishing metals. A species of wormwood grows in great quantities in this region, where the soil id gravelly and barren. Somt- of it grows eight or ten feet high, and four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to trav- eling. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any animal will taste it unless compelled by extreme hunger. The prairie hen, however, crops the buds or leaves, which renders it flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw some graniie to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite in parts of the Atlantic states. What I had seen before in boulders ^►; ml 74 GRIZZLY BEARS. was of the red cast, like that which is luuiid about Lake Supt-rior. On tile otli, we arose at tlie first breaking of tlie day and proceeded on our route, making forced inarches tlirougli this barren region. Encamped towards niglit at a place called the Red Bute, which is a high blull' of land, resem- bling red ochre in color, but composed of clay somewhat indurated. This is a central place for Indians traveling east or west, nordi or south. Here the north-west branch of the Platte, along which we have been traveling, comes from a southern direction, tiie head of which is about one hundred and fifty miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over to the Sweetwater, a branch of the Platte, which comes from the west. We saw to-day tracks of grizzly bears, which were perfectly fresh, and were indicative of their formidable size and strength. One with two large cubs passed out of some gooseberry and currant bushes near the river, as we proceeded abound to an open spot of ground for an encamping place. Lieut. S. of the dragoons, a man of undoubted veracity, told me he saw several buffalos pass- ing near some bushes, where a grizzly bear lay concealed, and the bear with one stroke tore three ribs from a bufialo and laid it dead. It has been said, if you meet one of these bears, you must either kill him, or be killed ; but this is not true, unless you come upon them suddenly, or wound them. If you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases, withdraw, showing that the fear of man is upon them as well as upon other beasts. August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming more interesting, as we approach the mountains. I saw to-day, not only granite in situ, but also a quantity of the most beautiful serpentine I ever beheld.. It was semi-transparent HOCK INDEPENDENCE. 75 il'il and of a fleop groon huo, very much roscml)linj:j specimens of emerald which I saw in the mineralo^n'cal cabinet at New Haven. I regretted the necessity which a long jour- ney, yet before me, imposed of passing by opportunities for making collections. Passed Rock Tndependence, on the 7th. This is the first massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, which divides North America, and forms, together with its barrens on each side, a natural division. This rock takes its name from the circumstance of a company of fur traders suspend- ing their journey, and here observing, in due form, the an- niversary of our national freedom. It is an immensely huge rock of solid granite, entirely bare and covering several acres. Advancing a little distance, we came to a stream of no inconsiderable size, which has its origin in the moun- tains, and to which the name of Sweetwater has been given on account of its purity. We followed up the course of this river for several days. In one place it passes a small branch of the mountains, through a narrow chasm only thirty or forty feet wide, and more than three hundred feet high. The caravan passed around the point of this mountain, and to obtain a better prospect of this natural curiosity, I left them and rode to it. A deep-toned roar is heard as the river dashes its way through the rocky pas- sage. The sight is soon intercepted by its winding course, and the darkness caused by the narrowness and deepness of the avenue. Passed to-day, several small lakes of crystal ized epsom salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is evaporated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality and depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, I was glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be beneath, 'mi ^M m ■A'' 70 APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS. whothcr salt in a les.s solid state than on tlio surface, or quicksand, yet large (juantities of good quality might be easily collected. The mountains arc indeed rocky mounlainn. They arc rocks heaped up(jn rocks, with no vegetation, excepting a few cedars growing out of the ere vices near their base. Their tops are covered M'ith j)erpetual snow, which arc seen on our left and before us. As we advanced, the atmosphere was increasingly more chilling through the night and most of the day, excepting the middle, which to-day was very Avarm ; tho thermometer standing at 84*^. Sabbath, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of the privileges of tho sanctuary and its ordinances, as well as I could by reading, and recalling to mind portions of the scriptures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, but neglected catechism. One needs to be on heathen ground to realize the solitariness of absence from the social wor- ship, where •' The cheerful songs and solemn vows Make their comumnion sweet." On the 10th, cold winds wci*e felt from the snow-topped mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage through these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the ascent and descent, that I should not have known that we were passing them, had it not been that as we advanced the atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at length we saw the perpetual snows upon our right hand and upon our left, elevated many tliousand feet above us — in some places ten thousand. The highest part of these mountains are found by measurement, to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. This valley was not discovered until some years since. Mr. Hunt and his party, more than twenty THUNDER SPiniTS DEPARTED. 77 1 years aijo, went near but did not find it, thniicjli in search of sonio favoi';il)lc jiassajio. It varies in widfii from tiirco to fifteen miles ; and following its course, the distance through the mountains is about eighty niih^s, or four days' journey. Though there are some dovations and depres- sions in this valley, yet coniparativcly speaking, it is level. There would he no ditRculty in the way of constructing a rail road from the Atlantic to tlie Pacific ocean ; and prob- ably the time may not be very far distant, when trips will be made across the continent, as they have ueen made to the Niagara Falls, to see nature's wonders, fn passing the Black TTills and the Rocky Mountains we heard none of those "successive roports resembling the discharge of several pieces of artillery," mentioned by some authors as common *' in the most calm and serene weather, at all times of the day or night:" nor did we witness " lightning and thunder, pealing from clouds gathering round the summits of the hills" or mountains. "The thunder spirits, who fabricate storm>} and tempests," appear to have closed their labors, and the Indian tribes no longer *' hang offerings on the trees to pro- pitiate the invisible lords of the moimtains." Tiie geology presents some variety ; for while the main ridge of the mountains is granite, yet to-day j)arallel ridges of red secondary Sandstone have abounded. They appear to have been affected by heat ; and some elevating force has broken them into dyke-like ridges at different distances from each other, running from east north-east to west south- west. The strata arc mostlv vertical, but some have a slight dip to the south. We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon, and the men were called to arms. They all rushed forth full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger. 8 i'l 1 I . y9 1 l:|; i i a 1 ■ i ; , ... J r'% 'i ]iM j m .km 78 Bm SANDY RIVER. Only one Tndinn made his appearance upon the hill, at ' foot of which we were encutnpod. This was taken as an indication that others were near, which was the fact ; but he and they retreated. August 11th. The last night was very cold — we liad a heavv frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the thernio- meter stootl at 24°. Our early morning ride was not very comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our men who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses and mules began to show that constant labor, without sufficient food, was not favorable to strength, and some of them failed. To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, one of the upper branches of the Colorado, which empties into the gulf of California. Along its banks are some Norway and pitch pine, and a very few small white pines, and clumps of com- mon poplar. In some of the low vales, there were beautiful little fresh roses, which bloomed amidst the desolations around. " How ornamental are the works of nature ! She seems to decorate them all, as if each spot was a garden, in which God might perchance walk, as once in Eden." THE UEiVDEZVOUS. 79 CHAPTER V. Arrive at rendezvous — trappers and Imntcrs — four Indian nationn — Fiatlieads and Noz PcrcoH, no reason why ho called — Hurgical opo- rations — an interview with the Flathead and Ncz Perce chiofH — their anxiety for rolifjious instruction — return of Doct. Whitman — Shoshones and Utaws — mountain life. After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a branch of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches. Al- tliough we were emerging from the mountains, yet peaks covered with perpetual snow were seen in almost every di- rection, and the temperature of tlie air was uncomfortably cold. I found to-day sonjo beautiful calcedony, of which I took a specimen, and also green stone, quartz, and trap in large quantities. In the afternoon, wc came to the Green river, a branch of the Colorado, in latitude 42°, where the caravan hold their rendezvous. This is in a widely extended valley, which is pleasant, with a soil sufficiently fertile for cultivation, if the climate was not so cold. Like the coun- try we have passed th 'ough, it is almost entirely prairie, with some woods skirting the streams of water. The American Fur Company have between two and three hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, enga- ged in trading, hunting and trapping. These all assemble at rendezvous upon the arrival of the caravan, bring in their furs, and lalce new supplies for the coming year, of clothing, ammunition, and goods for trade with the Indians. But few of !f-^;,,): i t ■n i 60 SURGICAL OPERATIONS. tliose men ever return to their country and friciitls. Most of them arc constantly in debt to the company, and arc un^vil- ling to return without a fortune ; and year after year })asses away, while they are hoping in vain for better success. Here were assembk 1 many Indians belonging to four diflerent nations ; the Utaws, Shoshori.es, Nex Perccs, and Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan, to exchange furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer- chandise. I was disa})pointed to see nothing peculiar in the Flathead Indians to give them their name. Who gave them this name, or for what reason, is not known. Some suppose it was given them in derision for not flattening their heads, as the Chenooks and some other naaons do, near the shores of the Pacific. It may be so, but how will those who indulge this imagination, account for the Nez Perccs being so called, since they do not pierce their no^es ? This name eould not bo given them in derision, because tliose near the Pacific, who flatten their heads, also pierce their noses. That those names have been given l)y white men, is evi- dent, since they do not call each other by the names which signify either flat head or pierced nose. While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was called to perform some very important surgical operations. He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the back of Capt. Bridger, which was received in a skirmisli, three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a difhcult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance had grown around it. The Doctor pursued the operation with great self-possession and perseverance ; and his pa- tient manifested e(jual firmness. The Indians looked on meanwiiile, with countenances indicating wonder, and in iM AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS. 81 their own peculiar manner expressed great astoni-sliment when it was extracted. The Doctor also extracted another arrow from the shoulder of one of the hunters, which had been there two years and a half. His reputation becoming favorably established, calls for medical and surgical aid were almost incessant. After spending a few days in collecting and digesting in- formation in regard to this country and the condition of the people, we had an interesting interview with tiie chiefs of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid befure them the ob- ject of our appointment, and explained to them the benevo- lent desires of Christians concerning them. We then en- quired whether they wished to have teachers come among them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his wor- ship, and the way to be saved ; and wliat they would do to aid them in their labors. The oldest chief of the Flatheads arose, and said, " he was old, and did not expect to know much more ; he was deaf, and could not hear, but his heart was mad) glad, very glad, to see what ho had never seen before, a man near to God," (meanhig a minister of the gos- pel.) JNext arose Insala, the most influential chief among the Flathead nation, and said, " he had heard, a man near to God was coming to visit them, and he, with some of his people, together with some white men, went out three days' journey to meet him, but missed us. A \sar party of Crow Indians came upon them, and took awvj some of their hor- ses, and one from him which he greatly loved, but now he forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near to God." There was a short battle, but no lives were lost. The first chief of the N-^z Perces, Tai-quin-su-watish, arose, and said, " he had lieard from white men a little about God, which, liad only oone into his ears ; he wislied to ^8* i-m A ■ ■': W- t . ■i I, W: Vi 83 DR. WHITMAN S PROPOSAL. know enough to have it go down into his heart, to innuencchi-s life, and to teacli his people." Others spoke to the same im- port, and they all made as many promises as we could desire. The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi- sing field for missionary lahor, which is white for the har- vest, and the indications of divine providence in regard to it are plain, by their anxiety to obtain Ciiristian knowledge. Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and prayerful consideration, in regard to these Indians, wo came to the conclusion, that, though many other important sta- tions might be found, this would be one. So desirable did this object appear, that Dr. Whitman i)roposed to return with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out with him the next year, with the then returning caravan, and es- tablish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save at least a year, in bringing the gospel among them. In view of the importance of tiie object, I readily consented to the proposal, and to go alone with the Indians the remainder of my exploring tour. Dr. Whitman, on further considera- tion, felt some misgivings about leaving me, lest, if any ca- lamity should befall me, he should be blamed by the Chris- tian public. It was my desire that no disquietude should be felt for me, for we could not go safely together without di- vine protection, and with it I was secure in any situation. This confidence inspired me with all the courage I needed, and composed my mind in regard to coming dangers, as it had sustained me under those that were past. Met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I stated to them the contemplated return of Doctor ^Vllitn]an. They were much pleased, and promised to assist me, and to send a convoy with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla, on the Columbia river. They selected one of llieir princi- SHOSIIONES. 83 pal young men for my particular assistant, as long as I should have need of him, who was called Kcntuc ; and I engaged a voyagcur, who understood English, and also the Nez Perce language sufficiently well to interpret common business, and some of the plain truths of our holy religion, to go with mo while 1 should continue with these tribes. We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and Utaws, to propose the subject of missions among them, lest we should excite expectations wliich would not soon be ful- filled. We were the more cautious upon this subject, be- cause it is difficult to make an Indian understand the dif- ference between a proposal and a promise. The Shoshones are a very numerous nation, and appear friendly. They are probably the most destitute of the necessaries of life of any Indians west of the mountains. Their country lies south-west of the south-east branch of the Columbia, and is said to be the most barren of any part of tlie country in these western regions. They are often called Snakes and Root Diggers, from being driven to these resorts to sustain life ; and parts of the year they sulfer greatly from hunger and cold. They are more squalid than any Indians 1 have seen ; bui their poverty does loot lessen th( ir ■>.eed of salva- tion through Christ. The Utaws arc decern ;i\ appearance, and their country, which is toward Santa Ft, is said to be tolerably good. A few days after our arrival at the ril^cc of rend /.vo us, and wlien all the mountain men haci assembled, another day ofindulgenee was granted to tiiem, in wliicii all restrahit was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's happiness. I will relate an occurrence \vhich took place near eveiiing, as a specimen of mountain life. A hrnter, who g K's technically by the nan^e of the great bully of the , i : i ::'V a B^i, I f 11 84 MOUNTAIN LIFE. mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and chal- lenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, to fight him in single comhat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if he wislied to die, he would accept the challenge. Shunar defied him. C. mounted Ids horse, and with a load- ed pistol, rushed into close contact, and hoth almost at the same instant lired. C's ball entered S's hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. Shunar's ball passed over the head of Carson ; and while he went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might be spared. Such scenes, sometimes from passion, and some- times for anmsement, make the pastime of their wild and wandering life. They appear to have sought for a place where, as they would say, liuman nature is not oppressed by the tyranny of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied forms to which human nature, without the restraints of civil government, and cultivated and polished society, may be supposed to yield. In the absence of all those motives, which they would feel in moral and religious society, re- finement, pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even conscience, give place to unrestrained dissoluteness. Their toils and privations are so great, that they more readily com- pensate themselves by plunging into such excesses, as in their mistaken judgment of things, seem most adaj)ted to give them pleasure. They disdain the common-place jjhrases of profanity which prevail a'^^ong the impious vulgar in civil- ized countries, and have many set phrases, which they ap- pear to have manufactured among themselves, and which, in their imprecations, they bring into almost every sentence and on all occasions. By varying the tones of their voices, they make tJjem expressive of joy, hope, grief, and anger. DEMORALIZING INFLUENCES. 85 In their broils among tliemselves, whicli do not happen every day, they would not bo ungenerous. They would see " fair play," and would " spare the last eye ;" and would not tole- rate murder, unless drurdccnness or great provocation could be pleaded in extenuation. Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been lamentable, and they have practiced impositions upon them, in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said they have sold tliem packs of cards ur high prices, calling them the Bible ; and have told them, if they should refuse to give white men wives, God would be angry with them and punish them eternally : and on almost any occasion when their wishes have been resisted, they have threatened them with the wrath of God. If these things are true in many instances, yet from personal observation, I should be- lieve, their more common mode of accomplisliing their wishes has been by flattery and presents ; for the most of them squander away their wages in o/naments for their women and children. The Indians, with whom I was to travel, having appoint- ed the 21st to commence the journey for their country, a few days were occupied in writing to my family, the Ame- rican Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and other friends ; and also in making j)reparations for my jour- ney !'■ \Falla Wallu. While wo conlhiued in this place, though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights were frosty, and ice was frequently formed, ! >i 86 PEPARTUHE OF UOCT. WHITMAN. CHAPTER VI. Part with my associate — arrive at licad waters of the Columbia — kind, ness of the Indians — narrow dclile — geology — ^Jackson's Hole — wild flax — Iriippers go out on a liunt — mountain prospect — Trois Tctons — danger from affrighted buffalo — Pierre's Hole — Volcanic chasm — children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians — bu- rial of a child — scarcity of food — a timely suppl}' — Salmon river — expected battle — geological observations — scene of mourning. August 21st, commenced oui' journey ui company with Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six ov eight dp,ys' journey op our route. Instead of going down on the south-west side of Lewis' rivrr, we concluded to take our course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are tliree veiy high mountains, covered ^vith perpetual snow, separated from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are seen at a very great distance ; and from thence to Sahnon river. Went only about three miles fron the place of rendezvous, and encamped. On the 22d, 1 parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned with the caravan to the United States. My anxious desire was, that, the Lord would go with him and make his way prospoious, and make him steadfast to the object of his re- tun;, until it should be accomplished ; and that, with next iiighi come with associates into this 1 with them r*^';);! a plentiful harvest. •hat bar- year's caravan, he )ronii smg field, an To-day we traveled twenty miles, through somewi ren countr) , and down several steep descents, and arrived oicanipcd upon a at what is called Jackson's Hole, and PUBLIC WORSHIP. 87 ■small stream of water, one of the upper branches of the Columbia river, It was interesting to find myself, for the first time, upon the waters of this noble river. The Indians were very attentive to all my wants — ^took tlie entire care of my packed animals, cooking, &c. They preserve par- ticular order in their movements. The first chief leads the way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, and after these the women and children. The place assigned me was with the first chief Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a small number. These furnished a timely supply, as our provisions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of the Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve mine. Sabbath, 23d. Had an opportunity for rest and devo- tional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship with those of the company who understood English. Tiie men conducted with great propriety, and listened with at- tention. I did not feel any disposition to up])raid ther.i for their sins, but endeavored aiFectionately to show them, that they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be happy in the employments of that holy place, unless they should first experience a great moral cliange of heart by the grace of God, since the only source of happiness in heaven con- sists in serving and glorifying (^od forever. The place of our encampment was such as would naturally fill the mind with soU'uinity — ^^just above a very deej* and narrow defile whicli wc had to pass, called by the hunters Kenyan, So high were the mountains, tl.at some of them W(M"e tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow tlie passage, that twi- light shades obscured the view. The distance through must occupy more than a half day's journey. M ^ML^^ 88 A DAXfiEROUS PASS — GEOLOGY. Arose very early on the 24th, and connnienccd our way through the narrow defile, frequently crossing and 'o-cross- ino; a large stream of water which Hows into the Snake river. The scenery was wild and in many parts sublime — moun- tains of rock, almost perpendicular, shooting their heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one place project- ing over our path, if a zigzag trail can be called a path. Often we had to pass over the sides of mountains, which in- clined at an angle of 45° toward the stream of water below, and down which packed mules have fallen, and been dashed upon the rocks. I endeavored to guide my Indian horse so cautiously that he became unmanageable, being resolved to have his own method of choosing the way. I was under the necessity of dismounting and making the best of my way. But on farther acquaintance with Indian horses, T learned that their dashing mode of going ahead, even in danrferous places, was preferable to the most cautious management of the American. For some miles there was Sandstone in ridges at equal distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six to ten feet wide, rising a little above the surface of the earth, running from south-east to north-west ; laying in strata dipping to the west at an angle of 60°. At some distance I obser- ved a mountain of red earth of similar character, excepting that the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 40°. In one place where the sti'ata of rocks and earth were in waves nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, of a wedge form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular position, as though the mountain had been rent asunder, and the chasm filled with the perpendicular wedge. A great diversity of the strata of rocks and earth prevailed in every part. To- wards the last of the way through this narrow defilo, we KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES. 89 came to what appeared to ^10 magnesian limestone, stratified, of a brown color, and very hard. As we passed on we saw dark brown gypsum, like that found in the western part of the state of New York. Here for some distance I was much annoyed with the strong scent of sulphureted hydrogen, and soon saw at the foot of the mountain under the bed of gyp- sum a large sulphur spring, which sent up more than thir- ty gallons of water per minute. Around this spring were large quantities of incrusted sulphur, and so strongly is the water saturated, that it colors the water of the river, on the side next to the spring, a greenish yellow, for more than a mile below. We passed more forests to-day, than since we left Rock Independence ; among which is Norway pine, balsam fir, double spruce, and common poplar — some low cedar and flowering raspberry, and various species of shrubbery which are not found in the United States. The Indians were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see who could do the most for my comfort, so that they more than antici- pated my wants. Two little girls brought me a quart of strawberries, a rare dish for this season of the year. And an Indian brought me some service berries, which are large, purple, and oblong, of a pleasantly sweet taste, similar to whortleberries. We encamped upon a fertile plain, sur- rounded by mountains, where three years before three men were killed by a small war party of Blackfeet Indians. There were seven of the hunters, and when they saw the Blackfeet, they all fled in different directions, and by so doing emboldened the Indians to the pursuit. Had they stood firm and combined, it is probable they would have escaped unhurt. We traveled four hours on the 25th, to another branch of Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleasant 9 ' , !' !' ^^ n M ^^rM r ! ■: mmi i)0 WILD FLAX. t valloy, commonly called Jackson's larfjr hole. It is fertile and v\ ell watered with a branch of Lewis' river coming from tho south-east, and another of some magnitude, coming from the north-east, which is the outlet of .Jackson's laki', .i body of water laying back of the Trois Tctons. Theru are also many ve'y large springs of water of uncommon clearness, which issue from tho base of the surrounding mountains. This valley is well supplied with grass of excellent ijuality, which was very grateful to our horses and mules, and the avidity with which they helped themselves seemtd to say, they would be remunerated for past deprivations. Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In every thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the flax which is cultivated in the United States — the stalk, the boll, the seed, the blue flower closed in the day time and open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for making fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be mowed like grass ; for the roots are too large and run too deep into the earth, to be pulled like ours — and an advantage, which this would have, is, that there would be a saving of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy the experiment of our agricultural societies? Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good currants, which were delicious in this land. There are several species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow and pale red were the best flavored. We continued in this encampment three days, to give our animals an opportimity to recruit, and for Captain Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into the mountains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the probability, that most of these men would never return to their friends, but would find their graves in the mountains, my heart was pained for them, and especially at their thoughtlessness A MOUNTAIN rilOSPKCT. or fertile CT from i ^%^. >. ^. '^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V' ^ A % /!/. io fA 1.0 I.I 1.25 M 12.5 UN nil 12.2 :t lis ilM llllim ^4 IIIIII.6 6" V vl > ^5 ^' f^ J^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. M580 (716) 872-4503 \ iV \\ ^% V *> ^ 6^ <^ 4is 10 6^ 92 A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. some hours occupied in this excursion, I descended to the encampment much gratified with what I had seen of the works of God. The soil in this valley and upon the hills, is black and rich, and the time will come, when the solitude which now prevails will be lost in the lowing of herds and bleating of flocks, and the plough will cleave the clods of these hills and vales ; and from many altars will ascend the in- cense of prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai-quin-su- wa-tish took me to his company of horses and gave me one in token of his friendship, and probably not without the motive to enlist me in his favor. The horse was finely made, and of the beautiful color of intermixed cream and white. On the 28th, we pursued our journey and passed over a mountain so high, that banks of snow were but a short distance from our trail. When we had ascended two-thirds of the way, a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our Indians, came rushing down the side of the mountain through the midst of our company. One ran over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and threw the child far down the descent, but providentially it was not materially injured. Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it deeply in the shoulder. The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when they have laid their course, and being aflTrighted are run- ning at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction, whatever obstacles may be in their way. I noticed nothing particularly new in geology, excepting upon the highest parts of these mountains, granite of very light color. Our descent was through woods more dense than those on the other side, and tiie most dense of any for- ests since we left the waters of the Missouri. Many parts of the descent were of almost impassable steepness ; and part of the way down a rough deep ravine, a stream of m PIERRE S HOLE. 93 water commences, and increasing from springs and rivulets to considerable magnitude, winds its way through the valley of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper part of which we made our encampment among willows, in the prairie vale. On the 29th, removed our encampment, and traveled five hours along this valley to the place, where two years before, two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's Hole is an extensive level country, of rich soil, well watered with branches of Lewis' river, and is less frosty than any part we have passed this side the rocky chain of mountains. The valley is well covered with grass, but like most other places is deficient in woodland, having only a scanty supply of cotton-wood and willows scattered along the streams. It extends around to the north-west, as far as the eye can reach. We expected to have found buffalo here, but saw none. As parties of Blackfeet warriors often range this way, it was probable they had lately been here and fright- ened them away. Between this and our last encampment, I was shown the place where the men of the fur companies, at the time of their rendezvous two years before, had a bat- tle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the Blackfeet party there were about sixty men, and more than the same number of women and children ; of the white men in the valley, there were some few hundred who' could be called into action. From the information given me, it appeared that these In- dians were on their way through this valley, and unexpect- edly met about forty hunters and trappers going out from rendezvous to the south-west on their fall and winter hunt. The Indians manifested an unwillingness to fight, and pre- sented tokens of peace ; but they were not reciprocated. Those who came forward to stipulate terms of peace were fired upon and killed. When the Indians saw their danger, 9* .! ml m ';;'■; M * il ■■■■- ., 'IV ! I II !i- 94 THE BATTLE OF PIERRE's HOLE. they fled to the cotton-wood trees and willows which were scattered along the stream of water, and, taking advantage of some fallen trees, constructed as good defenses as time and circumstances would permit. They were poorly pro- vided with guns, and were still more destitute of ammuni- tion. The trappers keeping out of reach of their arrows, and being well armed with the best rifles, made the contest unequal ; and still more unequal, when, by an express sent to rendezvous, they were reinforced by veterans in moun- tain life. The hunters, keeping at a safe distance, in the course of a few hours killed several of the Indians, and al- most all their horses, which, in their situation, could not be protected, while they themselves suffered but small loss. Those killed, on both sides, have been differently stated, but, considering the numbers engaged, and the length of time the skirmishing continued, it could not have been a bloody bat- tie ; and not much to the honor of civilized Americans. The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they would have butchered them and seized upon the plunder. If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, civilized white men should not. What a noble opportunity was here af- forded for our American citizens to have set an example of humanity. When night approached, the hunters retired to their en- campment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians made their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre's Hole began and ended.* * Since my return, I have seen an account of lliis battle, written by a graphic liand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing the Indians as having entrenched themselves in a swamp, so densely wooded as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trap- / THE TEN COMMANDMENTS. 95 t I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as many as could assemble in (^ne of their lodges, and explain- ed to them the ten commandments — and after showing them their sin in their transgression of God's holy law, pointed them to the Savior, and endeavored to make them under- stand the way of salvation. My method of instructing them was to give the first chief the first commandment, by repeating it, until he could repeat it ; and the second com- mandment to another chief in the same way, and so on through the ten, with directions for them to retain what was given to each, and to teach their people ; and the same manner was pursued with other parts of divine truth ; in- forming them, that at our next assembling, I shall examine them to see if they rightly understood, and retained what I committed to each. And on examination, in no case did I find more than one material mistake. I also found that they took much pains to communicate instruction to each other. pers at ba;/, until they were reinforced from rendezvous. When the Blackfeet saw the whole valley alive with horsemen rushing to the field of action, they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the leaders of the several hunting parties came into the field, they urged their men to enter the swamp, but they hung back in awe of the dis- mal horrors of the place, regarding it impenetrable and full of danger. But the leaders would not be turned from their purpose — made their wills — appointed their executors — grasped their rifles, and urged their way through the woods. A brisk fire was opened and the Blackfeet were completely overmatched, but would not leave iheir fort, nor offer to surrender. The numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did not atorm the breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their powder and balls, but only kept up the bloody battle by occasional firing during the day. The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat ; and the brave mountaineers assembled their forces in the morning, and entered the fort without opposition. With those who have seen tlie field of battle, the glowing descrip. tion, drawn out in long detail, loses its interest ; for although I saw it, yet I did not see dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any where near. '.'■''f:\ '»*■ '-iii f i ! -1. ' ' '11 96 VOLCANIC CHASM. In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party, who went north-east into the mountains to their hunting ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which they will contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and his family, with a few of his people, went with Captain Bridger, that they might continue within the range of buffalo through the coming winter. The Nez Perces, and the Flatheads, with whom I go, take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was well chosen for safety against any war parties of Blackfeet Indians, near a small stream of water running through a volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and in most places perpendicular. We were on the west side of the chasm, with a narrow strip of wood on every other side. Here was a passage made for the water by fre. The courses, which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the cre- ating and directing hand of God, as the design manifested in the organic part of creation ; and I would as unwillingly account for the positions of mountains, and valleys, and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, without inclu- ding the power and design of God, as for the formation of plants and animals. It is true, there is more minute and curious organization in the one than in the other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are manifest. This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re- freshing, and it seemed as though the Sabbath was designed especially for persons in such circumstances. It was, to my mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence are done. I read with new satisfaction, the Epistle to the Hebrewsj and committed again myself and family, the CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 07 church and world of mankind, to God. It was pleasant to reflect on the promises, that the kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the Lord and of his Christ, and he shall reign forever ; and that the time will come, when all shall know the Lord, and God shall be merciful to their unrighteousness, and their sins and iniquities he will re- member no more. Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and pre- paring to leave this encampment, I went and examined the volcanic chasm. It is many miles in length, and narrow, considering its depth ; formed of basaltic columns in many places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found many large and fine specimens of pure obsidian, or volcanic glass — much lava and vitrified stones. I took some small speci- mens. In the vicinity around, there was clinkstone in great abundance, which, when struck by the horses hoofs, gave a metallic sound. The soil is black, and appears to be formed of decomposed lava, and is covered with a nutritious grass. The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him. Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge and kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. Yes- terday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which a child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hover- ed at once around with their horses so as to enclose him, and the child was extricated without injury. When I saw the condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could be saved alive. This was the second case of the kind which had occurred since I had been traveling with these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses that every man, woman, and child, are mounted on horseback, and all their .;t I: '/.I I I ;1 ■■■^ rM i • III .1 *• ;' iili V: 'if ms m .: 1,' I' il 98 CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. possessions are packed upon liorses. Small children, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and gene- rally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep them from falling, when they sleep, which they often do when they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horses slioulders ; and when they awake, lay hold of their whip, which is fastened to the wrist of their light hand, and apply it smartly to their horses ; and it is astonishing to see how these little creatures will guide and run them. Children which are still younger, are put into an encase- ment made with a board at the back and a wicker work around the other parts, covered with cloth inside and out, or, more generally, with dressed skins; and are carried upon the mothers' back, or suspended from a high knob upon the fore part of their saddles. As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co- lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the Nez Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge a number of his people who had separated, husbands from their wives, and wives from their husbands, and ex- plain to them what God had said upon the subject. I rea- dily consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal as it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result of his own reflections after what I had before said in explain- ing the ten commandments. When they were assembled, I read to them about the relative duties of husbands and wives, and of parents and children. I commented upon the subject, and told them that when they marry it must be for life. All but two agreed to go back to their former hus- bands and wives. It was interesting to see that they are rea- dy to practice instructions as soon as received. The chief FEARS OF BLACKFEET. 99 said they desired me to instruct them in all that God has said ; for they wish to do riglit. After I left them, they stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, which was near my tent, and I heard them conversing on the suhject until I went to sleep, which was at a late hour. They all shook hands with me when I left them, and said my words were "to?'*" (good.) Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to- day only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, another branch of Lewis' river, which is itself a river of some mag- nitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and fordable only when the water is low. After proceeding a few miles down on the north side, we encamped at an early hour in a spot upon the bank of the river, surrounded by cotton- wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. Our fears of meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were increased by seeing three Indians pass who were strangers to us. Some of the chiefs Avent through our encampment and ha- rangued the people, the object of which was to be prepared for defending themselves against an attack, should any en- emies appear. We were preserved in safety through the night, and arose on the morning of the second and went on our way, and performed a journey of twenty-two miles over a barren section of country. The surface is composed of quartose sand, intermixed with disintegiatcd amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. In some places were large excava- tions, plainly indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had spread out their melted contents in a level plain of hard lava, or amygdaloid, without forming cones. In other pla- ces there were conical rocks of different magnitudes at the base, and of different height — none perhaps over the diame- ter of three rods at the base and sixty feet high. They 'If,. \i ) '.n M in M ,;.fj| . .)■ (>.'i % U 100 INVITATION TO FORT HALL. were universally divided in the centre, as though an explo- sion had taken place after they were hardened. At some distance from us were several hills, rising in high cones some hundred feet — two of them I should judge to be not far from three thousand feet high. I did not have an oppor- tunity of examining their geological formation. We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Salmon river, which was the first water we had found through the day, and upon which was good grass for our horses. Here Kentuc, my Indian, caught some excellent trout, which was a very grateful change of food. Our progress during the next day was through a barren tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except wormwood, which grows very large. A sluggish stream bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65®. We traveled on the fourth, five hours, and encamped by a stream of water, in Cote's defile, which comes out of the mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. Cote's defile passes through a range of high mountains, some of the tops of which are covered with snow. Most of the day was uncomfortably cold with snow-squalls. Thermometer, at noon, 54°. Friday, 4th. To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall, containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the winter with him ; but the object for which I have passed the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my tour, and if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and would come to us to-morrow. We had become almost des» titute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo. 1 '» CUARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF. 101 Tho morning of the 5th was very cold. Wc continued in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perccs an op. portunity to join us, and about the middle of the day they came ; the principal chief marching in front with his aid, carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing appearance. The women and children followed in the rear. Tai-quin-su-wH-tish, and other chiefs, arranged their people in the same order and went out to meet them ; and when we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted, and a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead. They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single file, and meeting, shook hands with me and each other irt token of friendship, and to express their joy to see one come among them to teach them respecting God and salvation. The principal chief of the other band who is called Charlie, and is the first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good look- ing man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and ex- pressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy ex- pressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took me firmly by the hand and welcomed me. In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see a prominence of interesting appearance. It is detached from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side of Cote's defile, is about a half mile in circumference at the base, and rises up abruptly, having most of its west side perpendicular. It is more than two hundred feet high, has a level horizontal summit of eighty rods long, north and south, and twenty rods wide. It furnishes plain evidence of havinj.! been fused and thrown up by subterranean fires. In tho evening I met the chiefs, and as many as could 10 :':h^R i ;.■ W-\ ' m ri'. ^■M "'W 102 A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS. Ill assemble in the lodge, and explained to those wliom I had not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the first chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some time — mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can teach him ; and said, ** I have been like a little child, uneasy, feeling about in the dark after something, not knowing what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be substantial, and which will help mo to teach my people to do right." I told them to-morrow would be the Sal)bath ; and explained to them the nature of the institution, and their obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp, but attend to the worship of God. Providentially there came to us this afternoon a good intei-preter from Fort Hall, so that to-morrow I can preach to the people. Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice explained to them the instructions given last evening ; told them it was the Sabbath, and they must prepare for public worship. About eight in the morning, some of the chiefs came to me and asked where they should assemble. I en- quired if they could not be accommodated under the shade of the willows, which skirted the stream of water on which we were encamped. They thought on account of their numbers they could not. I then enquired if they could not take the poles of some of their lodges and construct a shade ; and without any other directions they went and made pre. paration, and before eleven o'clock came and said they were ready for worship. I found them all assembled, men, women, and children, between four and five hundred, in what I would call a sanctuary of God, constructed with for sire: anc our of n Spii ness atte mm AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE. 103 their loi' M i > ' Dd id i#^ 11 Jl ' .US -81 i\: n :- .(• h. : ¥ ^ i:l eal M 114 SALMON RIVER. CHAPTER VII. Salmon river — mineral salt — chimneys — forest tfecs, new species of pine — geology — sulphur lake — a rare animal — new upecics of squir* rcls and pheasants — came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia — fer- ryman — Basaltic formation — fine climate — arrive at Walla Walla. Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream, and takes its name from the immense number of salmon found in its waters. The shores are covered with pebbles of primitive formation. I took an observation of latitude, and found it 44° 41'. September 16th. Passing a mile down the river, we came to a location of mineral salt. It crops out of the mountain near its base, on the south side of the river. On account of the impaired state of my health, and having no fa- cilities for exploring the mine, I was under the necessity of passing it with an examination of such specimens only as the Indians procured. The salt is pure and white, contain- ing less of the water of crystalization than our common salt. I took a quantity to replenish my nearly exhausted store. That the mine may be extensive is probable from the circumstance, that the geological formations around are like those about the mines in Poland, and besides it is in the vicinity of the great Salt Lake, Avhose waters are so strongly saturated that crystals form upon the shores. After passing down the river two hours in a north-west direction, we entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon river. The river literally passed into the mountain* j for THE CHIMNEYS. 115 the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three hun- dred feet liigh, through these mountains several thousand feet high, was wide enough only for the river to find a pas- sage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no more. During the two hours ride, before we entered the mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was some level bottom-land along the river, in every direction moun- tains were rising above mountains, and peaks above peaks, up to the r gions of perpetual snow. These mountains are not so much in chains, as of conical forms, with bases in most instances small in proportion to tiieir height. So much sublimity and grandeur, combined with so much va- riety, is rarely presented to view. Horizontal strata, with interchanges of white, green, red, and brown, were similar to those seen yesterday ; and in one place, for more than a mile, a vertical front was presented, facing the south-west, of one hundred and fifty, and two hundred feet high, resting up- on a base of conglomerated rock. The stones of which it is composed are round, of primitive origin, cemented with marly clay, and of the various colors already mentioned. The opposite side of the river is studded with dark basalt. After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, nar- row, and winding course for several hours, until an open space spread out before us. Here I beheld what appeared at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses which the fire had desolated, leaving the decayed, broken, and tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer approach they proved to be masses of slaty rock, ton, twenty, and even forty feet in height. The firm and impenetrable tex- ture of their material preserves them from being crumbled to a level with the earth around them. From this place we turned more westerly, and passed a I :u ' lu ;^l#t^ I I 116 THE BLASTIC PINE. high mountain, parts of which arc very st(?ep, and encamped in a vulloy by a strcara of crystal water. On the 17th, wo pursued our journey over high moun- tains, which, in some places were intersected by deep ra- vines, very difficult to be passed. Encamped in a grovo of large Norway pines. September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow pro- gress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my jour- ney to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, I took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remainder to follow at their leisure. We passed over a mountain six thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day to arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with woods, excepting small portions, which arc open and furnish grass for our horses. The woods are composed mainly of fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. The leaves of this new species resemble those of pitch pine, growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but are shorter and smaller ; the bark and the body of the tree resemble the tamarack ; the wood is firm and very elastic. On ac- count of this last and peculiar property, I have called it the elastic pine. It grows very tall and straight, and without branches except near the top. These pines would undoubt- edly make excellent masts and spars for shipping. On ex- periments which I made, I found it difficult to break sticks an inch in diameter. After passing part of the way down this mountain, we stopped for the night. We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance than when we were with the village. We were much an- noyed by trees that had fallen across the trait. Encamped upon the south-east side of a high mountain, where there REFLECTIONS. 117 was a larfjo opening, a spring of water, and a good supply of grass for our )i(»rses. Sal)l)atli, iJ(Uli. We continued in the same encampment. I expressed my wish to tho f, that the (Uiy should bo spent religion' 1y, and tliiit ho 8ht)uld conniiunicutc to his men, as well us Uc was able, tiio scripture truths he had learned. Tliis was faithfully done on his part, and he prayed with thetn with much apparent devotion. I was interested to see how readily they wer«' disposed to obey to the extent of their knowledge, and I was afiectcd with the thought that so few were willing to come and teach these benighted minds. After they had closed their worship, I sang a hymn and prayed, and conversed with them. The indammation in my head continuing, I bled myself copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but increased my weakness, so that I could walk only a few rods without much fatigue. • Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to me, I found my heart sinking in despondency, and was ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains. It seemed, that sucli was my loss of strength, and I was be- coming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue of traveling eight days longer over these mountains, which are on an average about six thousand feet high ; and as they range north and south, with only very narrow valleys between, and our course was only a little north of west, we were constantly ascending and descending ; and we could not discontinue our journey for the want of provisions. The thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of my mission, and close my life without a sympathising friend with whom I could converse and pray ; and be buried in these solitary n\ountains, filled me with a gloom which I 11* I I I '^im 1 ''^■M ■ ! % 118 A CURIOSITY. it;;v knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night I sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my aching, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was a very good substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and every morning arose refreshed by sleep. Monday, 21st. At an early hour we resumed our jour- ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good fare they had yesterday, made a long day's journey. I had noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day, which is about seven thousand feet high, two days before we arrived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether Charlie, my guide, would not depart in this instance from the common custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the highest parts of mountains, and to descend into the low- est valleys. But we passed the highest point, excepting one peak, which is nearly perpendicular, and rises like an immense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt; and around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion. At the ba.se there are also excavations, around and below which tfiere is a large quantity of lava. Thi^ is a granite moun- tain, most of which is in its natural state. The way by which I calculated the height of these mountains is, that some of them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as eight thousand feet, in latitude 42®, is the region of perpetual snow, there can be no doubt, as these do not vary greatly from each other, that they average six thousand feet. I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun- tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one 1 a m tual itly bun- my lour lone INDIAN SIMPLICITY. 119 was balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff of wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief, seeing me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying glass, said, "-these white men know every thing. They know what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron, and how to make watches, and how to make the needle al- ways point to the north." They had seen a compass be- fore, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that would keep me from getting lost." A waterfall was seen de- scending down a high point of this mountain, which, by its continual foaming, looked like a white belt girding its side. Left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour and continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the way the ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and in some places even more steep ; sometimes on the verge of dizzy precipices ; sometimes down slielves of rocks where my Indian horse would jump from one to another, and in other places would brace himself upon all fours and slide down. I had become so weak that I could not walk on foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently between the mountains there would be only space enough for a rush- ing stream of the purest water to find its way ; the bank on one side of which would terminate the descent of one moun- tain, and the other bank commence the ascent of another. The question often arose in my mind, can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless these mountains shall be brought low, and these valleys shall be exalted ? But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of wood for the wide-spread prairies ; and they may contain mines of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests for fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads may be constructed running north and south, so, that trans- 'k:i , 1 ': H:^;J 120 MOUNTAIN LAKES. portations may be made south to the Salmon river, and north to the Coos-coots-ke.* After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a low stony place where there was but little grass, for the want of which some of our horses strayed away. Our men killed a deer, which was a very agreeable exchange for dried buifalo. The mountains, over which we made our way on the 23d, were of primitive formation, with the exception of some parts which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate predomina- ted. In one place there were immense quantities of granite, covering more than a hundred acres, in a broken state, as though prepared for making walls, mostly in cubic forms. In some places the change from granite, in its natural state, to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it would be difficult to say where the one ended and the other began ; like the change from day to night. While riding along upon a nar- row ridge of this mountain, I saw two small lakes a little down the sides ; one on the right hand, which appeared to be very black, and the other upon the left was very yellow with sulphur, issuing from a spring in the mountain side. These two lakes were directly opposite each other, and not far distant. I should have examined them more minutely, had my strength permitted me to go down to them, and again ascend to where I must have left my horse. There was also much in the scenery around to admire ; mountain rising above mountain, and precipice above precipice. We spent the night in a valley, where there was a small meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods around * The name of this river in the journal of Clarke and Lewis, and in all other writings I have seen, is written Coos.coos-kcc. This signi- fies the water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water, Coos, water ;. coots, little; ke, the. The little river. . lar| thu / iTi NEW SPECIES OF TREES. 121 were very dense, composed mostly of the new species of pine, which here were very tall and straight, not however very large in diameter. The neighborhood of beaver was indi- cated by the mud dam, and by the barked willows on the stream. The Indians brought in a wolverine which they killed. Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our encamp- ment, and made good progress through the day. About the middle of the day, we came where we could look forward without the sight being obstructed by mountains, and it was pleasant to have a prospect opening into the wide world. We continued to descend, until we came into a valley of considerable extent, through which flows a larue branch of the Coos-coots-ke. Found to-day a new species of elder, which grows five or six inches in diameter, and from ten to twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue and plea- sant to the taste. Kentuc caught some fine trout. Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Perces, which they left last spring. They were in fine order. It is remarkable that their horses do not wander far from where they are left, although there are no fences to inclose them. Here some of the Indians changed their horses and took fresh ones, relieving those which were worn down with journeying. On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile val- ley, until one in the afternoon, when, contrary to my ex- pectations, we left this branch of the Coos-coots-ke, which was too much of a northerly direction, and ascended another high mountain, densely covered with woods. Among the largest trees is a new species of fir, single leafed, the bark th^ and rough like the bark of hemlock, but the balsam is same as the common fir. I saw more birds in this val- I* ■i\0 W i I 122 A RARE ANIMAL. ley, than in all the country through which I had passed west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins in great numbers, the magpie, and with them a new species of bird about as large as the magpie, its color uniformly a dull red, some- what resembling chocolate. Thermometer stood at 54°. On the 2Gth, we proceeded but about four hours on our way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum- mit ; the distance to another suitable place for our horses over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color was a brigiit orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; its fur appeared to be fine ; its head round and large ; its eyes black, prominent, and very piercing. I was forward of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about eight feet up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared afraid to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain it, but witliout success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, but did not kill it, and it came down and escaped. I saw in these mountains, a new vari- ety of striped squirrel, only about half as large as those found in the United States ; and another kind, in every re- spect resembling the red squirrel, but in color. It is nearly black, excepting its under parts, which are rufous, or red- dish yellow. Also a new species of pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. It is much smaller than the common species ; somewhat lighter colored and more spotted ; its habits are gregarious like the common quail. It was re- markably tame, as if unacquainted with enemies ; and when assailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to be amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Its flesh was very good, and furnished an additional supply to our waning stock of provisions. '^ ' ''l^^ft' tj^^^H ■ 1 A chief's anxiety. 123 Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. My health was no better — sweat profusely last night, and yet the inflammation was increasing — took from my arm a pint of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief. We had religious services both in the morning and after- noon of this day, as last Sabbath. Charlie prays every morning and evening with his men, and asks a blessing when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, my in- terpreter, came and sat by me, and said, " we are now near our country, and when we come into it, I wish you to look over it and see if it is good for missionaries to live in. I know but little about God — my people know but little — I wish my people to know more about God." He said he wished to talk with me much more, and was sorry I had not a better qualified interpreter. Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made a long day's march and emerged from the mountains about two o'clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as we ex- pected, we were obliged to travel on until near night, when we came to another branch of the Coos-coots-ke, at which we found several lodges of Nez Perce Indians. A salute was fired, and then we were welcomed with a ceremonious, but hearty shaking of hands. They feasted us with excellent dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents* I was rejoiced to find myself safely through the Salmon river mountains, and convalescent. These mountains were far more difficult to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as we could not take advantage of any valley, but one in which we journeyed only two-thirds of a day. Excepting in the middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently ice was formed during the night. It was a favor that we Infiid no snow, which often falls upon the tops of these moun- •'il m^ '1 m I ■ 124 MEETING WITH INDIANS. R « w tains very early in the autumn ; nor had we any storms, or unpleasant weather in our passage. Frequently heavy gales of winds sweep through these mountains, and prostrate parts of the forests ; but we had none to endanger us. On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov- ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth. Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, there being but little besides what is found along the streams of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us with the same friendly expressions, as those did where we encamped last night. We left the branch of the Coos-coots-ke and ascended westerly to the upper prairies, which are as fertile as the lower, and do not suffer more with the drouth. After a long and fatiguing ride over these prairies, we descended into a deep gulf, almost enclosed with perpendicular walls of basalt ; in the bottom of which, we found a large spring of water, where we encamped. Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made good progress, considering the exhausted state of our horses. Most of the streams were dried up, and one, which is generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend- ing out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of the high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses, contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried grass to the green. In the afternoon, we went through a section of country well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yellow pine and white oak ; where much of the sioil appeared to rfii LEWIS RIVER. 125 be very good. Towards night we cams to a stream of water running west, where we encamped. Thermometer 82° at noon. Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially better health, for which I cannot be too tliankful. After travelling a few miles, we came to several lodijes of Nez Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief. They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was, and the object of my coming into their country, as their countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter from the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat, except what they could find upon the prairies. We arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on account of the summer's drouth there is less water flowing down its channel than I anticipated. A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca- noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and reminded mo of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat. This country difRrs much from what I had expected ; for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply for grazing, yet there is such want of summer raii.s, that some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian corn. The crops sown in the full of the year, or very early in the spring, would probably be so far advanced before the seve- rity of the drouth, that they would do well. In general 12 « 1'. . liii t 126 GEOLOGY. there is a great want of wood for building, fencing and fuc' ; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply may be brought down the Coos-coots-ke. This place connbines many advantages for a missionary station. I began to doubt tlie correctness of the statements of some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses, and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they saw this sitle the Rocky Mountains; for as yet I had seen no wild horses, and on]y a vrri/ few wolves. Encamped upon the west bank of Lewis river, or as it is more com- monly called, the Snake river. On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time, before all our horses could be found. We started about eight, and proceeded three hours down the river to a place where it takes a northerly bend, through a section of moun- tains which aic difficult to be passed. Our direct course to Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the river and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source. The section of country through which we journeyed to-day was mountainous. One part of the river along which we traveled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The lowest part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high and very cellu- lar, terminating in a narrow horizontal plain. Above this is superimposed columnar basalt ; the columns of which are regular pentagons, varying from two to four feet in di- ameter, rising forty feet high, perpendicular excepting in one place, where they were a little inclined. Above this formation of columns there was a stratum of volcanic stones and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness, lying in a confused state. Then upon this another section of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to the height of three hundred feet, nearly perpendicular. riM CAMMAS ROOT. 127 The pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much the same appearance, as those composing the <' nt's cause- way in Ireland. From the best observations I could make, I was led to conclude that the diirerent sections were raised, at dilFercnt periods of time, by widely extended subterranean fires. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other places, which I have yet seen, is of very dark color, contain- ing augite, or black oxyd of iron ; and is what Clarke and Lewis, and those who have copied from them, have called black rocks. Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our en- campment. We had through the day, an uncommonly high wind from the west, a pleasant sun and serene atmos- phere. We have had no rain since the 12th of July, while on the east side of the mountains, and not more than five cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky Mountains is excellent, and no country can possess a climate more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat hilly country well covered with grass, we encamped for the night, and for the Sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an upper branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found three lodges of Nez Perccs who were out on a hunt for deer, and the women were gathering cammas roots. This root in some degree resembles in taste and nutritive properties the sweet }X)tato, and constitutes a large item of food for the In- dians throughout a considerable section of country, this side Salmon river and Salmon river mountains. The common tokens of friendship were interchanged, and they presented us a share of such food as they themselves had. Sabbath, Oct. 4th. We had public worship, at which all the men, women and children of three lodges attended. What there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, fr 3!" II I i : 'ii'i I ■f|#' 128 VALLEY OF THE WALLA WALLA. was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the ap- pearance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians manifest to know wliat they must do to please God, and to obtain salvation. Employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Explana- tion of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium of divinity, and is too much neglected in families and Sab- bath Schools. Decamped early, on ihe r)th, and pursued our journey down the Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of thirty miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with the common trees and shrubs of such locaticis, interspersed with wild roses. The prairie hen, the avos.^t, the robin, and varieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this as a favorite retreat ; while the animals, which we have been seeking for game, desert this delightful place and find their dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot impressed me favorably as the situation for ihe missionaries who should succeed me, and in every thing but its populousness would furnish advantages beyond any I have as yet seen. Indi- ans of different tribes border on, and around, this valley, and the location is therefore less central for any one of them. They might, however, be brought by degrees to col- lect and settle down around a mission station, when once it should be established. October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour- ney with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, and of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs and passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving Walla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the Co- lumbia river the soil became more and more sandy. Before m FRIENDLY RECEPTION. r3» I we arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by seeing cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the bottom- land ; and the sight was not only novel, after having been so long from civilized life, but the more interesting because unexpected. As we came near the fort, the Indians fired their customary salute, and then rushed forward to the gate. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, met us, and gave me a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering a habitation of civilized men, whoso language was not strange. I felt that I had cause of thankfulness, that God, in his great mercy, and by his watchful providence, had brought me in safety and with restored health to this place. Soon I was invited into another apartment to breakfast ; and it was truly pleasant again to sit in a chair, at a tabic spread with fur- niture, and such luxuries as bread and butter, sugar and milk, of which I had been deprived for about three months. :l|#^- m 12* I': ^k, i' ''^Mii 130 FORT WALLA WALLA. CHAPTER vrir. Description of Walla Walla — the kind treatment of tlic Indians by tlm Hudson Bay company — leave Walla Walla for fort Vancouver — lo- (luacious orator — rapids — introduction to the Cayuse Indians — morn- ing prospect — long rapids — Volcanic mountains — trial of Indian generosity — arrival at the falls of the Colund)ia river — rousing cf. fects of oratory — La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable subsidence — Cascades — Chenooks arc the Flatheadsuud Ncz Perccs — dangerous rapids — Indian burying places — Pillar rock — interest. Jng waterfall — sea fowl — arrive at fort Vancouver. Fort Walla Walla is situated on tlio soiitli side of the Coluirdna river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co- lunibia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, by tie people belongin<^ the Hudson Bay Company, Nez Perce river; and one mile above the Walla Walla river, in latitude 4()° 2', loniritude 119° IW. Two miles below the fort there is a ranjje of mountains running nurth and south, which, though not high, are yet of considerable mag- nitude ; and where the Cohnnbia passes through, it is walled up on both sides with basalt, in many places three hundred feet perpendicular height. The soil, for considerable dis- tance around, with the exception of some strips of bottom- land, is sandy, and for the want of summer rains is not pro- ductive. This establishment is not only supplied with the necessaries of life, but also with many of its conveniences. They have cows, horses, hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate corn, potatoes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; and might enlarge these and other productions to a great extent. ' 11, HUDSON DAY COMPANY. 131 Thoy also keep on hand dry j^oods and hardware, not only ibr their own convenience, but also for Indian trade. Most of the year they iiave a trood supply of lish, and an abun- dance of salmon of tiio lirst (pjality. 1 arrived iiero in six months and twenty-three days after leavinjT home — forty-five days from llciKhn'.vous — and twen- ty from entering Salmon river mountains. Wednesday, 7th. Continued in tiiis place. Settled witii my interpreter, ^ave presents to my Indians, and made ar- ranfTcments for leavin«f to-morrow, in a canoe propelled by Indians l)elongin<^ to the Walla VV^illa triijo, for Fort Van- couver, which is two hundred miles down tlic Colundna. Tims I am putting myself, without fear, into the iiands of Indians, wlierc a few years ago an escort of lifly men was necessary for safety, and shall laive to pass ])laces which have been buttle grounds between traders and Indians. The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company arc worthy of commendation for their good treutnicnt of the Indians, l)y winch thoy have obtained their friendship and confidence, and also for the cllbrts, wliicii some few of tiiem have made to instruct those al)out tiiem in the first principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard to equity, humanity and morality. This company is of long standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and intend to perpetuate the business ; therefore they consult the prosper- ity of the Indians as intimately connected with their own. I have not heard as yet of a single instance of any Indians being wantonly killed by any of the men belonging to this company. Nor have I hoard any boasting among thcni of the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians, that I have elsewhere henrd. Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians liaving .,1 ■-! 1' I IvJ i: I^<1# •it]h M «;■ ■■■ 132 A VOYAGE COMMENCED. got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given them their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine o'clock in the morning, and having passed the usual salutations, we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which here is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself in a new situation — my horses dismissed — in a frail canoe upon the wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger Indians, two hundred miles by water before I could expect to find any white men ; to pass through several nations whose lan- guages are entirely different ; yet the change from horse- back, for months over mountains and plains, through defiles and ravines, was anticipated with satisfaction. My three Indians were well acquainted with the river and with the art of managing the canoe. One of them under- stood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was very lo- quacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of im- portance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the other two were to do as he should direct. On account of his important and loquacious habits, I called him my orator. One of the other two, who took the stern and steered the canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking man, excepting the expression of his countenance, which was indicative of intelligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow, was an able and well disposed young man. The channel through the volcanic mountain a little below the fort, is one of the wonders of nature ; how it was formed through those immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about three hundred feet, and for the distance of two or three miles, remains unexplained. But my attention was so much taken up with the boiling eddies and the varying currents, CAYUSE INDIANS. 133 that I (lid not take those observations which under difTerent circumstances mignt have been made, and which tiie scenery and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed out of tiie mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a roclcy bed, and the water was so broken, that 1 thought it unsafe to continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians to put me ashore. My talking Indian said, "/o/5," (good.) I told him, ivaiitu tois, kapseis, not good, but bad. But still he said, tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not de- cline putting me on shore, if there was any particular dan- ger. The man at the stern put ofF into the middle of the river, where the water was the smoothest, but where the current was equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; and whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of an eye. Any failure of right management would have been disas- trous ; but they kept the canoe in the right direction, and we shot down with such velocity, as, together with the breaking in of some water, to cause solicitude. But this served to make the smooth parts, when we arrived at them, more pleasant, and my mind more tranquil in regard to future dangers. At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp- ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. My ora- tor, when we had come within hearing, announced our ap- proach and informed them who I was, and the object of my tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with all due respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had not come with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. They arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs and principal men forward, then the more common men, next the women, |f ')/■ m I'll' W Hi'!'. •*^' .1: 'ill I 'I *: Ii ! vM if 134 MORNING PROSPECT. according to their rank, the wives of chiefs, the old women, the young — and then the children according to age. All things being made ready, the salute was fired, and I landed and shook hands with all, even the youngest children, many of whom, when they presented the hand, would turn away their faces through fear. I made them some presents, and bought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranberries I had seen west of the Rocky Mountains, and they were a grateful acid. The Indians ex- pressed much satisfaction in seeing me, and in the object of my coming among them. I told them I could not explain to them what I wished, but they must meet me next spring at Walla Walla, where I should have an interpreter, and then I would tell them about God. After again shaking hands with them, we went on our way. At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en- camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who came about me with the tokens of friendship and kindness, whidh characterize their nation. Among their acts of kind- ness they brought me wood, which in this section of the country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and grass to make my bed upon. October 9th. Arose before day, and as soon as any light appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morn- ing was pleasant, the country around open and diversified with rolling prairies and distant mountain tops mellowed with the opening beams of the rising sun. It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as banished all feelings of solitude, although no sound broke upon the ear, but the regu- lar timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were urging forward the canoe whh an accelerated velocity, greater than the current oi the river would have carried us. \ ): 3ity, us. RAPIDS. 135 About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted by the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued to increase, until the Avhite breaking water was presented to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among which the whirling and foaming water was forcing its way. The only l)artof the river, Avhich presented any appearance of safety, was along near the south shore. This had some- what the appearance of a Avake. My Indians made no movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river. On my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they point- ed toward the wake and said, " to/.?." I pointed forward and toward the north shore, and said, kapscis, bad. They answered, " ni, kapseis ;" and with the language of signs accompanying their words, told me they would keep the canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of manage- ment being well established, I made no objection to their going forward, and in a very short time we had passed the appai'ent danger, and w'cre gliding along over the smooth surface on the south side of a large island, about six miles long. During the day, the country around was comparatively level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have been formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the volcanic substances, which so generally abound. This section of the country is well supplied with grass, which during the summer drouth is converted into iiay. Who can calculate the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might be kept here summer and winter, with no other labor than the care of a few herdsmen and sliopherds. Encamped upon the north side of the river among some sand hills, a little below •&■: d' k m 1 1^ :■.. "icles, and they went away rejoicing over the pre ts w h they had rect ' ^ instead of regretting the departure of the May Dacre. We passed to-da;y Pillar rock, whicli stands isolated more than a half mile from the north shore, composed of basalt, and is about forty feet high and fifteen in diameter. We anchored a few miles below. On tlic morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way whh a brisk wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread out into a buy, but owing to many slioals, the navigation is difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide set us afloat again, aud soon the great Pacific ocean opened to our view. This boundary of tiic " far west " was to me an object of groat interest ; and when I looked upon the dark rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of five thousand miles, without an intervening island until you ar- rive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thougiit was required, like conteini)lating infinity, which can measure only by succession its expansion and sublimity. Like the vanish- ing lines of perspective, so is contemplation lost in this ex- tent of ocean. As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in which : "t' * Chief, or gentleman. 14* •*1 »> it \l ♦I: f" I 154 ASTORIA. on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia anchored, and from whose commani' ;r the bay took its name. Nearly op- posite we passed Tongue Point, which extends about two miles into the bay or river, from the south. It is consider- ably elevated, rocky, and covered —ith woods. Soon after this, Astoria was annoi jed. My curiosity was excited. I looked, but could not discover what to all on board was so plainly seen — I blamed my powers of vision— -and reluc- tantly asked the captain, where is Astoria? "Why," he replied, " right down there — that is Astoria." I saw two log cabins, and said within myself, is that the far-famed '^New York of the west ?" SORT GEORGE. 155 CHAPTER X. description of Fort George — mouth of the Culuinbia — dangerous bar — rnountainims coast — varieties of timber— good location for a mis. sionary station — continued rains — dense forests — excursion in a oanoc down the bay — view of the coast — disasters at the entrance of the Columbia — ship William and Anne — ship Isabella — Tonquin — Japanese junk — reflections — water fowl — return to Fort Vancou- ver — the regard Indians show the dead — Indian kindness. When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort George (Astoria) is situated, Captain L. niannoil a boat to take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his respects to the governor, who had tlio politeness to meet us at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to his dwelling. After having interchanged the curstomary salu- tations and made a short stay, tlio captain re-embarked and made his way for Cape Disappointment ; and the wind and tide being favorable, ho passed the dangerous bar without any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort George is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from Cape Disappointment, is without any fortifications, has only two small buildings made of hevved logs ; about two acres cleared, a part of whicli is cultivated with potatoes and garden vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose of trade with the few remaining Indians, who reside about these shores. Though this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the time must come, when at the mouth of this noble river there will be a place of business, and especially may this be expected, " ^m ' ■ f I \k 156 MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA. as tliis bay affords the only good harbor for a long distance on this coast. I should think the north side of the bay, a little above the cape, adjoining what is called Baker's bay, would be the most desirable location for a town, as that is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor. On that side of the Columbia bay, the country is more open and pleasant for a commercial town. On the south side, where Astoria was located, the mountains or high hills come down very near the shore, are rocky and precipitous, preventing a southern prospect, and in the short winter days of a north latitude of 46*^ 17' they almost exclude the sun. A difficulty, of a nature that is not easily overcome, exists in regard to the navigation of this river, which is the sand- bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the bar , from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms deep, and in one place only five, and the channel is only about Haifa mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, and there is no passing it except when the wind and tide are both very favorable. Without the bar there is no ancliorage, and there have been instances, in the winter season, of ships laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for an opportunity to pass ; and a good pilot is always needed. Perhaps there have been more lives lost here, in proportion to the number of those who have entered this river, than in entering almost any other harbor in the world. But the calamities have been less frefiuent for some years past, than formerly ; and should a steam-boat be stationed at the cape, to tow vessels over, when business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the expense, the delays and dangers would be greatly diminished. VARIETIES OF TIMBER. 157 The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be- tween Chenook bay on the north and Youngs' bay on the south ; and seven wide between Fort George and Chenook point. It is filled with many sand-bars, and one, which is called Sand island, a little within the capes, seen only when the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when not in the charge of skilful pilots. The section of country about the sea coast is rough and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and dense forest of any part of America of which I have any know- ledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus, but I saw none of the species commonly called pine, any where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which there are three species, constitute the greatest part of the forest trees. White cedar, sprur e, hemloc, and yew, are interspersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is most common, prevail in small sections ; and in some low bottom-lands, the species of poplar, called the balm of Gilead, or bitter cotton wood, predominates. The balsam fir grows very large ; not unfrequently four and six feet in diameter, and two hundred feet high. I measured one which was eight feet in diameter, and about two hundred and fifty feet high. As I do not here intend to enter upon the dendrology of this country, I pass farther remarks upon this subject for the present. The quality of the land is good ; and some tracts of this mountainous iron bound coast might easily be brought un- der cultivation. One section about Youngs' bay, extending to and about Point Adams. This would be a favorable lo- cation for a missionary station, where access could be had 158 LAND EXCUKSION. to tli(3 Clalsop and Killaniook Indians, who arc said to be numerous. At this season of the year, there are hut few Indians who reside about this trading j)ost, finding it more fur their comfort to retire into tlie forests during the rainy season of the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along rivers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and where some game is found to add to their winter's stock of provisions. During my continuance in this place it was my intention to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from thence down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said aflbrds a very extensive and interesting prospect. But from day to day it rained, and the high winds created such a sea in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt the passage. On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very un- comfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased, ac- companied with snow, which, however, melted as fast as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the severity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and came in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat. The storm being somewhat abated, on the 26th, Mr. Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise. But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossible to make any progress, and wo did not penetrate the woods more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and turned our course back, but our return, with diligent efforts, oc- cupied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and shrubbery is indicative of a rich soil, no part of the world can surpass the country about these shores. A WATER EXCURSION. 150 Tlio mornin establish a Christian influence among the people of these infant settlements. Mr. J. Leo preaches to them on the Sabbath, and they have a very interesting Sabbath sciiool among the half-breed children. These children generally have fair complexions, active minds, and make a fine ap- pearance. The prospect is, that this mission may lay a foundation far extensive usefulness. Tlierc is as yet one important desideratum — these missionaries have no \\ ives. Christian white women are very much needed to exert an influence over Indian females. The female character must be elevated, and until this is done but little is accomplished ; and females can have access to, and influence over females in many departments of instruction, to much better advan- tage than men. And the model, which is furnished by an intelligent and pious family circle, is that kind of practical instruction, whether at home or abroad, which never fails to recommend the gospel. At the time of my continuance in this place, a singular epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several persons died. The subjects of the complaint were attacked .? y^^ ,a.'A* ^ with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, which .soon spread through the whole head, with great heat in the part aflected ; at the same time the pulse became very fee- ble aiid not very frequent — rsoon the extremities became cold, and a general torpor spread through the wlxile system, ex- cept the head — soon they were ftcnsoless, and in a short pe- riod died. In some cases tho attack was less severe, and the patient lingered, and after some days convalesced, or continued to sink until death closed his earthly existence. Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode with Mr. .1. Lee several miles south to sec more of tho country. The same ricl), I 'I': 1 Tt-I ■ HOSPITALITY OF WANAXKA. 1 t i }jlack soil continued, rurnishini; nutrilivo jirrass in abund- ance ; and also the same diversity of" wood and prairie. This valley is generally about fifty miles wide cas , and M'est, anil far more extended north and south. Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an liulian boy, wild belonged to the school, and who died last night with tl)o epidemic. Most of the children of the school and the Sabbath scliool attended, and conducted witli propriety. On Saturday 1 returned to McKey's settlement, to fulfil an appointment to preach to the iidiabitants on the Sabbath. 1 stopped with Mr. Edwards, who is temporarily attached to the mission, but now teaching school in this settlement. Almost the wliole of the inhabitants of this settlement assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent con- gregation, but not more tlian half of them could understand English. After service I was called to visit a Mr. Carthre, who was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which gave him innnediate relief, and api)lied a blister, raid, as I afterward learned, he recovered. Early on Monday morning, the 30th, iMcKey furnished me with \\vo young Tndians to tdke me in a can)L to the falls, where we arrived saftdy a; ti roe o'clock in the after- noon. Here I engaged two Ji';UuiuS belonging to a small Aillagc of the Clough-e-wali-i'p'i tribe, who liave a ])erma- iiont residence a little bel'' • the falls, 1u :• irry me in a ca- noe to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, tiie chief, came up to the falls, where I was about to encamp alone lur flie nighi. and inv'ted me to share the hospitalit}' of iiis iiouse. I hes- itated, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but feared such annoyances as might prcneiit my rcvSt. On the other hand, there was every appearance of a coid, heavv storm, im ■it i 178 CONSTRUCTION OF IIIS HOUSE. and very little wood near, which I could procure for a fire only with my hatchet, and I should bo alone, exposed to ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration, however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would gratify the chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with him to his dwelling, which was a long pernianciit building on the west 1 side of the river, upon an elevation of one hundred feot, |\C-'^ "^ and near which were several other buildings of nearly the same dimensions. Besides the family of the chief, there were two other families in the same building, in sections of about twenty feet, separated from each other by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses arc built of logs split into thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of their buildings ]>elow the surface of the earth, as some of the In- dians do about and below the Cascades. The walls of the chief's house were about seven feet high, with the roofs inore steeply elevated than what is common in the United States, made of the same materials with the vvalls, except that the planks were of less thickness. They have only one door to the house, and this is in the centre of the front side. They have no chimneys to carry off the smoke, but a hole is left open above the fire-place, which is in the cen- tre of each family's apartment. 'J'his answers very well ill calm weather, but when there is much wird, the whole l)uilding becomes a smoke house. The fire-place of the chief's ajmrtment was sunk a foot below tlie surface of the earth, eig''^ feet square, secured by a frame around, and mats were spread upon the floor f )r the family to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides of the apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with moveable ladders lor ascent : and under them they stow away their dried fish, roots, ber- ries, and other clFects. There was not an excess of neat- d! A biorninct voyage. 179 ness within, and still less without. Tlic Indians in tho lower country who follow fishing and fowling for a liveli- hood are far from being as neat as those in the upper coun- try, who depend more upon the chase. The latter live in moveable lodges and frequently change their habitations. But these Indians were also kind. They gave me most of one side of the fire-place, spread down clean new mats, re- plenished their fire, and were ready to perform any service I should wish. They tilled my tea-kettle, after which 1 spread out the stores so lountifully provided by Doct. Mc- Laughlin, and performed my own cooking. During th(^ evening, the chief manifested a disposition to be .sociable, but we had very little language common to us both, besides the language of signs. The next thing, when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify myself against a numerous and insidious enemy. I first spread down tho ch^th of my tent, llion my blankets, and wrapped myself up as securely ;'S T could, and should have slept comfortably, had I not too fully realized my apprehensions. As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two Indians proceeded down tlie Willamette about sixteen miles before we landed for breakfast. I find a great difrerence in going with or against the current of these rivers. Since going up this river, the number of swans and geese had greatly multiplied upon tho waters and along the shores. TluMr noise, and especially that of the swans, echoed through the woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful and majestic bird ; its large body, long neck, clear white color, and graceful movements place it among the very first of the winged tribe. The common seal are numerous in this river. It is very difficult to shoot them, even with the I, ISO LOVE OP ARDENT SPIRITS. if- i 1 1 best ri/lcs, on account of their diving witli extreme siuidon- ness at the flash. I had a fair opportunity to slioot one t(j- (hiy, but with one sphisii he was out of sight and did not again upj)eur. AVlion I came to the north-western branch of the Multnomah, I proceeded down four miles to Fort "William, on the Wappatoo island, an establishment which belongs to Captain Wyeth and Company. The location is ])leasant, and tiic land around is of the first quality. Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place hero between two men from the United States. The subject of their dispute was an Indian woman. Thornburgh was de- termined to take her from Ilub^- ^/rd, even at fhe risk of his own life. He entered llubburd's cabin in the night, ai'med with a loaded rifle, but II. saw him and shot him through the breast, and violently thrust him through tlie door. Poor T. fell and e\j)ir d. In the alj^ence of any judicial tribu- nal, a self-created jury of inquest, on examination into the circumstances of the case, brought in a verdict of "justifia- ble homicide." In Thornburgh, was an instance of a most insatiable aj)- jjctite ibr ardent spirits. JMr. Townsend, the ornithologist, whom I have Ijclbro mentioned, told me he was encamped out for several days, some miles from Fort William, at- tending to the business of his profession ; and that in addi- tion to collecting birds, he Lad collected rare sj)ccimens of reptiles, v>-hich he jircserved in a keg of spirits. Sev- eral days after he Avas in this ('ncann)ment, he went to his keg t" return to their fc/rmer liomes and friends, they can- not take their families with them. The other is, that these DIFFICULTIES. 183 Indian won'on do not understand tlie oblifrations of tlio mar- riage covenant, and if tiiey, as iiusl)ands, should wish to fulfil their duties, yet their wives might, tlirough caprice, leave them, and they should be bound by obligations, wliich their wives would disregard. Tiiere is no doubt, but that this subject is attended witU real dilHculties, but are they insurmountable? Has God given a law, which if obeyed would not secure our greatest and best good ? Can a rational mind balance for a moment the pleasure of a sinful life against interests which stand connected inseparably with permanent happiness, and with a duration, compared to which, the whole of this mortal life is l)ut a speck, a nothing. My heart is pained when I wit- ness the things which are seen and temporal prelerred to those that are unseen and pure, and which arc commensu- rate with existence itself. I cannot believe, that if these men should. marry the women with whom they live, and do all they could to instruct them, and treat them with tender- ness and respect, that there would be many cases of their leaving their husbands. And whatever might be the results, it is always better to suffer wrong, than do wrong. But their social comforts are so strongly bound with the cords of sin, that they feel, as they express their own case, that it is use- less to make any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until they shall be placed in different circumstances. As much of my time, through the week, was occu- pied in study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural history of the country west of the Rocky Moun- tains, and the character and condition of the Indians, which came under my observation at different times and places ; and also that which I obtained from persons whose testimony could be relied upon, and which came . N t ! .,1 11^ •'i V m^. : ; ft ' iii^ 1 1 '■[ ' 11 '4^ !• ■f MitM. miMi .1 181 THR HUDSON BAY COMl'ANV. unilcr tlunr personal observutiuii, I shall givo thoni with' rtut particular datus. I iiavc already mentioned my agreeable disappointment, in iinding so many of the comfoi'ts m life, at dillerent trad- ing posts of the Hudson Bay Company ; I have also given a brief description of the local situation of Fort V^ancouver. This was taken from such observations as I could malce in a hasty view, as 1 was prosecuting my journey to the shores of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was commenced in the year 1824. It being necessary that the gentlemen, who arc engaged in transacting the business of the Compa- ny west of the mountains, and their laborers, should be better and less precariously supplied with the necessaries of life, than what game furnishes; and the expense of trans- porting suitable supplies from England being too great, it was thought important to connect the business of farming with that of fur, to an extent equal to their necessary de- mands, and as this fort is the central place of business to Avliich shipping come, and from which they depart for dif- ferent parts of the north-west coast, and to which, and from w Inch, brigades of hunting parties come and go ; the prin- cipal farming business was established here, and has been j)rogressing until provisions are furnished in great abund- ance. There are large fertile prairies, which they occupy for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing materials and other purposes. In the year 1835, at this post, there were four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one hundred horses, two hundred sheep, forty goats, and tliree hundred hogs. They had raised the same year five thousand bushels of wheat, of the best quality I ever saw; one thousand three hundred bushels of potatoes ; one thousand of barley, one thousand of oats, two thousand of peas, and a large variety of garden HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 18o vegetables. This cutimato does not include the horses, horned cattle, &(;. and profhice raised at other staliont*. liut little, JKiwever, is done at any of the others, except injr (Jolvile, tiio upp(!rniost post on the northc rn hi-anch of tiie Columbia. TJje ijardenof this station, enclosinr^ al)out five acres, is laid out with rcrjularity and good taste. While a lari^o part is appropriated to the conuiion esculent vefi,eta- bles, ornamental plants and flowers are not neiflocted. Fruit of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and straw- lierries, lijr tiie time they hi' • been introduced, (lourisji and prove that the climate and re well adapted to tiie pur- ])oses of horticulture. Vai , ais tropical fruits, such as figh, oranges, and lemons;, have also been introduced, and grow with about the same care that they would require in the latitude of Philadelphia. In connection with this business and farming establish- ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox power, which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of excellent quality. Six miles uj) the Columbia, at the con- fluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation most of the year. This mill though large, does not furnish more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in the United States. There being no j)ine below the Cas- cades, and but very little within five hundred miles of the mouth of the Columbia river, the only tindjcr sawed in this mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the common business about this station, one, and sometimes two ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich islands, and it is there called pine of the north-west coast, and sells for about fifty dollars the thousand feet. Spars and timber for shipping are also sent to that market. Boards of fir are not 17 iiSl •^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ^ lis IIIIIM 2.5 2.2 1.4 1.6 V] ik ^W/ ^. / ^>/ V^^ y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 186 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. SO durable, when exposed to the weather, as those of pine, nor so easily worked. One half of the grain of each an- nual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and spungy, which easily absorbs moisture and causes speedy decay. There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily use in the fort, and a large supply of sea biscuit for the ship- ping and trading stations along the north-west coast. There are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners, carpenters, and a tinner. Here is a Avell-regulated medical department, and a hospi- tal for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which Indians who are laboring under any difficult and dangerous diseases are received, and in most cases have gratuitous at- tendance. Among the large buildings, there are four for the trading department. One for the Indian trade, in which are depo- sited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods open- ed for the current year's business ; and another for storing goods in a year's advance. Not less than a ship load of goods is brought from England annually, and always at least one in advance of their present use, so that if any dis- aster should befall their ship on her passage, the business of the Company would not have to be suspended. By this mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in the spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, freighted with lumber to the island, and bringing back to Vancouver salt and other commodities, but generally not enough for ballast ; and in the last of September, or in October, she sails for England with the peltries obtained during the pre- ceding year. I I !. \'l; THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 187 The fur business about and west of the Rocky Mountains, is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for so extensively and constantly have every nook and corner been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur ani- mals are becoming scarce. It is rational to conclude that it will not be many years before this business will not be worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50° of north latitude ; north of this, in the colder and more densely wooded regions, the business will not probably vary in any important degree. But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever succeeded in making it profitable. Several companies have sustained great loss, or entire failure, owing generally to their igno- rance of the country, and the best mode of procedure. The conductors of these enterprises, mainly, were inexpe- rienced in Indian trade, and, like Americans generally, they perhaps expected the golden fruits of their labor and industry, without the patience requisite to ensure it. Hence the results have frequently been disappointment. The Hudson Bay Company have reduced their business to such a system, that no one can have the charge of any impor- tant transactions without having passed through the inferior grades, which constitutes several years' apprenticeship. Their lowest order are what they call servants, (common laborers.) All above these are called gentlemen, but of different orders. The lowest class are clerks, then chief- clerks ; next traders, and chief-traders ; factors, and chief- factors ; and the highest, governors. Of the last office there are only two ; one resides in London, who is at the head of the whole business of the Company, and the other resides in Montreal, Lower Canada. There are only two : I f i I i il I * ^ I. I : i I * 11 111 ! V 1 N ■ !| I t ■ t um . 188 THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER. chief-factors west of the Mountains, John McLaughlin, Esq. and Duncan Flnlayson, Esq. and with them are associated in business several chief-traders and traders, and chief- clerks and clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are pro- portioned to the stations they occupy. This being their system of business, no important enterprise is ever intrusted to any inexperienced person. It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all those who engage in the fur business about, and west of the Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla, told me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt- ers near, but west of the mountains, they were under the necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more than two hundred who had been in his employment in the course of three years, only between thirty and forty were known to be alive. From this data it may be seen that the life of hunters in these far western regions averages about three years. And with these known facts, still hundreds and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter's life, and expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death. The estimate has been made from sources of correct infor- mation, that there are nine thousand white men in the north and in the great west, engaged in the various departments of trading, trapping and hunting, including Americans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It is more than one hundred and fifty years since white men penetrated far into the forests, in their canoes freighted with goods, coasting the shores of the remote lakes, and following up the still more remote rivers, to traffick with the Indians for their furs, not regarding hunger, toils, and dangers. These enterpri- CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. 189 ses have been extended and pursued with avidity, until every Indian nation and tribe has been visited by the trade r. What is the power of that principle which draws these thousands from their country, and their homes, and all the ties of kindred ? Is the love of gain and hope of wealth the motive by which courage and daring are roused, and dangers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less powerful principle ? Has it only furnished twenty or thirty mission- aries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to the many ten thousand Indians in the widely extended country, over which are ranging nine thousand traders, trappers and hunters ? Are these the only evidences the church of God can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to Christ, and to the interests of the immortal soul ? If so, then Christians surely must suffer in comparison with worldly men, and our heaven-descended religion, if judged of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed unworthy of its name and origin. But this want of Christian enterprise, characterized by the late period in which it is begun, and carried forward with sucli slow and faltering steps, is not only to be lamented as a blot upon the Christian name, but incomparably more is it to be lamented that in consequence, generation after generation of the heathen, to say nothing of the thousands who are trafficking among them, are left in their ignorance of the Savior to perish eternally. How long shall it be, that when an adventurous man forms a plan for traffick in far distant wilds, in a short lime a com- pany is formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars, and a hundred men are found to face hardships and dangers, and they are away ? But when a Christian heart is stirred up to go and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian na- tion, he may plead and plead for four men and two thou- 17* $! !!5 ■ m 190 CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. sand dollars, and perhaps in vain. But it is said, a great deal is now doing for the heathen world. How much? As much as to give Jive ministers to the United States. All that is doing for the conversion of the heathen is not more than it would cost to build, and man, and defray the expen- ses of one ship of war. Inc r INDIAN POPULATION. 191 at 1? .11 re n- i CHAPTER XIII. Indian population — diseases — mortality — attributed to cultivation of the soil — destitute of medical science — holidays — customs at home — customs of the Indians — resemblance to Jewish customs in punish- ment — marriage contracts — condition of the females — slavery — division into tribes — two points of dissimilarity — sacrifices — lan- guage. I HAVE found the Indian population in the lower country, that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than I had , expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made their tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven-eighths, if not as Dr. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, have been swept away by disease, principally by fever and ague. The malignan- cy of this disease may have been increased by predisposing causes, such as intemperance, and the influence of intercourse r with sailors. But a more direct cause of the great mortal- ; ity, was their mode of treatment. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged themselves into the river, and con- tinued in the water until the heat was allayed, and rarely survived the cold stage which followed. So many and so sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed with the unburied dead. Whole and large villages were depopulated ; and some entire tribes have dis- appeared, the few remaining persons, if there were any, uniting themselves with other tribes. This great mortality extended not only from the vicinity of the Cascades to the shores of the Pacific, but far north and south j it is said as ' t ■I ^^ |: U _, 1 1 i''''i if 1 ■ Jr 192 HOLIDAYS. far south as California. The fever and ague was never known before the year 1829, and Dr. McLaughlin mention- ed it as a singular circumstance, that this was the year in which fields were ploughed for the first time. He thought there must have been some connexion between breaking up the soil and the fever, f I informed him that the same fever prevailed in the United States, about the same time, and in places which had not before been subject to the complaint. The mortality, after one or two seasons, abated, partly from the want of subjects, and partly from medical assistance ob- tained from the hospital at Fort Vancouver, The mortality of Indians and their sufferings under diseases are far greater than they would be, if they were furnished with a know- ledge of medicine. Indian doctors are only Indian conju- rers. But I shall have occasion to say more upon this sub- ject when I describe Indian customs. December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these far distant regions. From Christmas until after the New Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of indulgence and festivity commences. Only this once in the whole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when they have a free allowance, furnishing them the opportunity to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were easily and always acces- sible. On Christmas morning they dress themselves in their best attire, accelerated movements are seen in every direction, and preparation is made for dinners, which are sure to be fur- nished in their first style, and greatest profusion; and the day passes in mirth and hilarity. But it does not end with the day ; for the passions and appetites pampered through the day, prepare the way for the night to be sp^nt in dan- cing, and loud and boisterous laughter, shouts, and revelry, consume the hours designed for rest. They continue these CUSTOMS AT HOME. 193 high-strung convivialities until they pass the portals of the new year, when labor and toil resume their place. Such are often the customs of those who profess to be wiser and better. The expiring year vanishes, amidst the noise and revels of many, wiio pretend by such methods to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of that only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect order. And too many give as they profess, but a decent honor and respect to those festival days, when from house to house of their best or indifferent friends, the wine is cir- culated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is it so, that these days are baptized with the name of liohj days ? The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly led them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior's birth, but whenever such uncommanded observances are greatly abu- sed, the same piety will exert itself to bring about a reform- ation ; and if this cannot be done, then to abolish the cus- tom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, in the case of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as a memorial of the salvation wrought instrumentally by it for those who were bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed it when the people idolized and burned incense to it. The question whether there is any evidence that the In- dians are descended from the ten lost tribes of Israel, though frequently and largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily answered. From all the personal observations I could make, and efforts at examination, I could not obtain any thing conclusive upon the subject, but am induced to believe that their origin will remain as problematical in future, as it has been in time past. Thei-e arc some things in their belief and customs which favor the idea that they are of Isra- elitish descent. Their entire freedom from idolatry is a pe- ■■\ I: r h I f H iif; If.;) r 'is iy m \ '« I < :% '••- I I 194 HESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. c 1 1 . \/s 1^' '^- culiar characteristic, by which they are distinguished from all other heathen. It will be remembered that this propen- sity of the Jews to idolatry was entirely subdued from the time of their captivity in Babylon. It was predicted by the prophet Hosea of the children of Israel, that "they should abide many days without a king, and without a prince and without a sacrifice." Among the Indians beyond the moun- tains, I found no idols, nor any appearance of idolatry. They believe in only one God, and all their worship, so far as they have any, is oflered to Him, or as they would say, to the Great Spirit. They believe in the immortality of the soul, and future rewards and punishments. They have no sacrifices, no kings, and no prince. Their government is invested entirely in their chiefs, no one of whom has any special control over the others, or over the people, but they always act in united councils. Their minds are perfectly open to receive any truth in regard to the character and worship of God. They have many traditions and super- stitions ; and some persons can hardly see the distinction be- tween a reverence for these, and idol worship — for instance, though they may believe that the Great Wolf and the Grey Bear scrambled together the mountains in a fight, yet they do not worship either. f Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet coin- cides with what was the custom of the Jews. The nearest relatives of the murdered person are the " avengers of blood," the executioners, or " pursuers of blood." They kill 'the murderer if they can find him ; and in their own tribe or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any other person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for the I children, neither are the children put to death for the fathers ; rv ' di( th( OM RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 195 V^ ' every man is put to death for his own sin." As the Jews - (lid not regard other nations witii the same benevolence as their own, so the Indians make a distinction between their own tribe or nation, and others. If one is itilled by a pcr- ''son belonging to another nation, if they cannot obtain and ; put the murderer to death, they will take the life of some of ' the relatives of the murderer; or, if they fail of this, some J one of the nation must atone for the crime. And if tliis cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood will still be de- manded, though years may pass away before it is canceled. There is also some resemblance in their marriage con- tracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed, with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of Isaac's marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant to go to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He went, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the appointed person, he first consulted her father and brother, and when their approbation was obtained, Rebekah's ap- proval closed the contract, and presents were made to the several members of the family. The customs of the In- dians are substantially the same. .The bridegroom negoti- ates with the parents, and the approbation of the daughter being obtained, the stipulated commodities are paid and the man takes his wife. But as much or more is given in dowry to the daughter. The presents and dowry are pro- portioned to the rank and wealth of the contracting parties. Wanaxka, the first chief of the Clough-e-wall-hah Indians, has refused more than one hundred dollars for a beautiful daughter, whom I saw when I shared the hospitality of his house. A chief at the La Dalles has refused two horses and six blankets, together with several other articles of smaller value. It is not, however, to be understood, that VM\ HESEMULANCR TO JKWrSII Ct.'STOMS. nmrrijiufo is a nioro niorcoiiary tninsaetion ; for fancy tvn»i clu)ico Imvo tlioir itillucnuo with thorn, as well as among inoro relincd people. Anothei- resemhliinef^ hctvveen the Indians and the Jews may bo traced in the estimation in which the females are held. No doid)f the de■ If k': 210 ANIMALS. tlioy carry them rather h)\v. Their horns, ears and eyes, as secii'throu'fh their shu«fgy huir, appear small, and cleared from iheir covering, they arc not lari^e. Tiieir lejfs and feet are small and trim, the fur<; legs covered with the lon fond nC lullinj; upon tho ground lii :l ' i^ '}\ ,.,| 411 ■ ;: ij- njl !ii ^ i iMl 11 )■ t'V D M &9 n If' II 1 m If li 212- FISH. CHAPTER XV. Fish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — ornithology — dcndro. logy — shrubbery — nutritive roots — geography — mountains — valleyi — plains — forestsr^rivcrs — soil — seasons. I PASS to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of the Columbia. Their number is "reat, but their variety U small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock cod, and trout are all that I shall mention. The sturgeon of good quality and in large numbers, commence ascending the rivers in the fore part of April, and furnish food to the suffering Indians. I say suffering, for before the opening of the spring, their stock of provisions are consumed, and they are seen search- i'lg for roots and any thing which will sustain life; and though I do not feel authorized to say what others have said, that in the latter part of the winter and fore part of spring, they die with starvation in great numbers, yet they are brought to extreme want, and look forward to the time when the sturgeon shall come into the river with great solicitude. A small fish, like the anchovy, about six inches long, very* fat and well flavored, come into the river in great numbers about the same time or a little before the sturgeon. The Indians obtain large quantities of oil from them, by putting tliem into a netting strainer and exjwsing them to gentle heat. The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year. They are very fine and easily caught.. FISH. 218 The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well ascertained that there arc not less than six different species of the true salmon that ascend these waters, commencinff about the twentieth of April. Their muscular power is ex- ceedingly great, which is manifested in passing the falls and rapids, which would seem insuperable. They are never known to return, but arc constantly pressing their way up- wards, so that it is not uncommon to find them in the small branches of the rivers near the very sources. We found them in September near the Rocky Mountains, where they are said to be as late as November and December. I saw some with parts of their heads worn to the bono and the skin worn from various parts of their bodies, which appears to be the result of efforts to ascend until they perish. Late in the season, great numbers are found dead, furnishing food for crows, and even Indians; for I have seen them drive away the crows and appropriate the remnants to themselves. When the salmon become much emaciated, the flesh loses its rich reilness, and it is seen in the skin, which gives the fish a beautiful appearance; but when in this state it is hardly edible. It is worthy of notice, that the salmon has its preferences of water, selecting some branches of the Co- lumbia river and passing by others ; and those taken in some of the tributary streams are far lictter than those taken in others. While those which ascend the rivers never return, the young are seen in September descending on their way to the ocean, in inunense numbers. It is believed these re- turn the fourth year after their descent ; but this may bo only conjecture. It is difficult to estimate how many sal- mon might be taken in these rivers, if proper measures were pursued; and also what would be the results upon the num^ 19* I I I i •i I'r i , ■ 1. ■■ ! !■ ii^-A 1. 214 FISHERY. bers which would continue to enter and ascend.. I think \v ithout doubt a plan might be devised and adopted to carry on a salmon fishery in this river to good advantage and profit. The experiment Avas made by a company from the United States, which failed, for it contained the elements of its own overthrow. The company sent out large quantities of rum, probably calculating on the fact that the Indians are fond of ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this appetite, they should enlist them in their favor, and as Indians will do any- thing for rum, they would catch and sell the fish to them. Whatever the object of the company might have been in sending and dealing out so much rum, the Indians were high- ly pleased with receiving it in pay for their salmon. But when they had thus obtained it they would become intoxi- cated and disqualified for labor, and more time was wasted in drunkenness, than employed in fishing. Besides, the sal- mon were often suffered to lie in the hot sun until they were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. The result was, that the company, as I was informed, obtained only about four hundred barrels of salmon, and made a losing voyage ; and the superintendent of Fort Vancouver told me, that when the company abandoned their business, they stored many barrels of rum at his fort. My information was not wholly derived from those who had been in the employment of that company, and gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, but in part from the Indians, wlio often spoke to me upon the subject by way of praise. They would say, ^' close, Mas him," signifying, good, plenty of rum. The birds of Oregon are not as numerous as those which inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the woods and sroves are more widely i ^pei they 'f I ORNITHOLOGY. 215 are sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist profita- bly, for a great length of time in collecting and preserving specimens. This region is particularly interesting from the fact, that in this as in other departments of natural science, it has hitherto been an unexplored field — no com- petent scientific person having visited this country to clas- sify the different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Townsend, of Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two years in ex- amining scientifically this field, and will probably give to the public the result of his labors. I am indebted to him for assistance in the following summary. The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, and are seen only a part of the year ; there are many, however, that reside here during the whole year. Among these are the majestic white-headed eagle, and the golden eagle, and three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the mag- pie, and thousands of ravens and crows ; several species of small sparrows, and two or three species of grouse, the common partridge of the United States, and the dusky grouse of the Rocky Mountains ; and also an interesting species of the dipper or water ousel. The habits of this biixl are very curious and peculiar, particularly that of de- sccnduig to the bottom of ponds and swiftly running streams^ and there in search of small shell-fish, remaining under water, for at least two minutes, during which time it will course about upon the pebbly bottom, with as much appa- rent ease and satisfaction, as if upon dry laud. The rcd- winncd black-bird and the robin continue tlu'ouji-h the year. The notes of the latter are heard even in the chill of the v/iutcr, though in feeble strains. As the autunm advances, the number of swans, geese, and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these wa- \I^M I'.- 'til 21G ORNITHOLOGY. ter fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the Co- lumbia river, and there are other species of the same genus, seen about the shores of the Cape, which do not ascend the rivers. Among these is the violet green cormorant, the most splendid of all the known species of cormorants. Tiie loon, or great northern diver, is very plentiful in this river. Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in great numbers, visit this river to seek shelter from the violent storms which agitate the ocean during the winter. The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers, brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain for different periods of time ; many of them continue only a few weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidification. There are, however, great numbers that remain through the summer, and their delightful songs add to the charms of a fine morning of April and May. Among these are hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice and nuthatches. Of the warblers there are eleven species, six of which are new ; the other five are common to the States. Several of the species arc but transient visitors, but most of them re- main through the season. Of the wrens there are six spe- cies ; three of the titmice, and two of the nuthatches. And in the train follow the thrushes, of which there are seven species, two of which are new ; of these Wilson's thrush is pre-eminent in sweetness of song. The fly catchers num- ber eight species, three of which are new ; and there arc thirteen species of the finchos, three of which are new. These are a large and musical band, among which are several of the faiest souirsters known in the world. In no instance do we find more richness and delicacy of plumage, with the most sweet melody of voice, than in a new species of large bullfinch, which visits this section of country in the DENDROLOGY. 217 spring. If these were domesticated, they would form a most valuable addition to any aviary. There arc eight species of woodpeckers, four of which are new ; and of the swallow tribe there are five species, one of which is new, and the most beautiful of the family, characterized by a splendid changeable green plumage on the head and back, while the other parts are purple and white. About the middle of March, the splendid little Nootka humming bird makes his appearance, coming so suddenly that you won- der from whence he came, as the fact of his performing a long migration of weeks, with his delicate little wings, over a cold and flowerless country, or across the sea, seems in- credible. The neck of this beautiful bird presents fine va- riations of color; now it is ruby red, with a metallic lustre; turn it, and the tints vary from purple to violet and crimson, according as the light falls upon it. I pass over the mention of many genera, and still more numerous species of the diiferent birds of this region, as it is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only to give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed of the ornithological treasures of this interesting country. Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub- bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large. The three kinds are the red, yellow and white. They dif- fer not only in the color of the wood, but also in their foli- age. The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the branchlets in the same form as those found in the United States ; the yellow only on tiie upper side, or the upper half of the twigs ; the white is oppositely pinnated. The ■ ■■Hi i ,. ! n 18 DENDROLOGY. balsam is alike in the three ditrorent species, found in blis- ters upon the bark in the same form as in other countries. White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor- way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not Indow the Cascades. The new species, which I have called tlie elastic pine, is far the most numerous, but I did not see any of these as far west as Walla Walla. The cedar is the common species, grows very large and tall, and is the best of the forest trees for various mechani- cal uses. The yew is also found anionic the evergreens, though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in small sec- tions oi the country. The white oak of good quality, and often large, is a common tree of the forest, and also the black, rough-barked oak grows in some of the mountainous parts. In an excursion down the rich plains below Fort Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade trees upon a well cultivated farm, I measured a white oak, which was eight feet in diameter, continued large about thirty feet high, and then branched out immensely wide, under which Mr. T. and myself, with our horses, found an excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two kinds of ash, the common white ash and the broad leafed. The latter is very hard. There is also alder, which I have mentioned as growing very large, and on dry ground as well as on that which is low and swampy. There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, the cotton and balm. The first is common in various parts of the United States, and is well known ; the second common- ly called cotton- W'ood, skirting rivers and streams as in the western States ; the third is the Popuhis hahamifcra, often • SHRUBBERY. 219 i called the balm of Giload. Its distinguishinir properties are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam in a glutinous state found in the small twigs, but mostly in the buds. This last species in some places spreads over large sections of bottom- land, where the soil is uncommonly good. White maple is found, but only in small quantities. Willows of various species are common in all parts of the country. There is a tree in the lower country which grows much in the form of the laurel or bay tree, but much larger, — the bark is smooth and of a red bay color, its leaves arc ovate. It has been called the strawberry tree, but I do not know with what propriety. There are no walnut or hickory trees west of the great mountains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard or sugar maple, or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry, cucumber, white wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except a species of black birch which grows small ; nor are there any of the species of locusts, hackbcrry, or buckeye. I might lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above observations are sufficient to give a general view of the for- ests trees of the country. The variety of shrubbery and plants is so numerous, that iheir examination would employ the botanist many months. 1 shall only sketch a few of those which are scattered over the prairies and through the forests. Among these are sev- eral varieties of the thorn-bush, manv of which aro large and iruitful. Those bearing the red a[)plc, present, when they are ripe, a very beautiful appearance. There is one species peculiar to the country west of the mountains, the fruit of which is black and of a delightfully sweet taste, but not gen- erally dispersed through the country. It is principally na- tive about the Blue JMounlains, the Walla Walla and Um- matilla rivers. The choke cherry is common to all parts of Mi m i ■ A 220 PLANTS. the country, and its fruit is very grateful where animal food is principally depended upon for subsistence. The salalber- ry is a sweet and pleasant fruit, of a dark purple color, oblong, and about the bigness of a grape. The scrviceberry is about the size of a small thorn apple, black when fully ripe, and pleasantly sweet like the whortleberry ; and tiie pambina is a bush cranberry. The varieties of the gooseberry are many, — the common prickly, which grows very large on a thorny bush, — the small white, which is smooth and very sweet, — the large smooth purple, and the smooth yellow, Avhich arc also of a fine flavor. All of these attain to a good maturity, and those growing on the prairies are very superior. There are three varieties of the currant, the pale red, the yellow, which is well tasted, and the black. Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not so prolific and desirable as those which grow under the hand of culti- vation. The beautiful shrub Symphoria raccmosa, called the snowbcrry, which is found in some of our gardens, grows here wild and in great abundance. Besides the common raspberries, there is a now species which grows in the forests, the berry of which is three times as large as the common, is a very delicate rich yellow, but the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new species of sweet elder which I have already described. The trailing iioneysuckle is among the first ornaments of nature. The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some small sections red clover is found, differing, however, from the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and moun^ tainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their fla- vor more delicious than any I have tasted in other countries^ f;'''v...APnv. 221 Wild llax 1 have incntionod iitul doscrihod on pago 90. Suri-flowt'i's ure common, hut do not urow Uu'iro : also a species of hroom-curn, is found in many places of the hot- fom-lands of the Colunihia and other streams. To these may he added a wild irrain somewliat resenihlin^r harli>y, or rye. Aniou!^ the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wappa- too and the cammas. The wfippatoo, is the common .sngit- taria, or arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the Columbia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and becomes soft by roasting, forming a nourishing and agreea- I)lc food, is much used by the Indians, and is an article of trade. It grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes which are covered with water. The Indian women wade in search of this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it with their feet, when it rises to the surface of the water and is secured. The cammas, a tunicated root, in the form of an onion, is of great importance to the Indians and grows in moist, ricii ground. It is roasted, pounded, and made into loaves like bread, and has a taste resembling licorice. The cowish, or biscuit root, grows on dry land, somewhat larger than a walnut, tastes like the sweet potato, is prepared in the same manner for food as the cammas, and is a tolerable substi- tute for bread. To these may be added the racine am^re, or bitter root, which grows on dry ground, is fusiform, and though not pleasant to the taste, is very conducive to health ; also the common onion, and another characterized by its beautiful red flower, which often grows upon patches of volcanic scoria where no other vegetation is seen. Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed ac- count of its geography may with propriety be given here. 20 ^ ' li .1 ' fl' 1 . I " m - ' ' '' f Ifill i'.i' p \ 1 '■ 1 k W 222 MOUNTAINS. f;> H In comparinf,' tho country west with that cast of the moun- tains, especially the great valley of the Mississijjpi, we are impressed very powerfully with the strong contrast which their distinguishing features present. The valley of the Mississippi may he called the garden of tho world — every part abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We see no barren r,v rocky wastes, no extended swamps or marshes — no fro/en mountains. Destitute of prominent land-marks to catch the eye of the traveler, he sees in the wide distance before him only the almost horizontal lines of level or roll- ing meadow. No one points him to the peaks of dim moun- tains and tells him that the range divides two sister states, or separates two noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting on the shoulders of lofty Bntes and blending their neutral tint with the hazy blue of tho landscape before him — nor Tetons rearing their heads into the region of perpetual snow — and day after day he pursues his journey without any thing to create in his bosom emotions of tho grand, and sublime, unless it be the vastness of the expanse. Beyond tho Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains and widely extended prairies, rich valleys and barren plains ; and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls, present a great diversity of prospect. The whole country is so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from which a person cannot sec some of tho immense ranges wiiich intersect its different parts. On an elevation a short dis- tance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical mountains, from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, whose tops are cov- ered with perpetual snow, may be seen rising in the sur- rounding valley. There are three general ranges, west of the rocky chain of mountains, running in northern and y^- - V VALLEYS — PLAINS. 223 southern directions. Tiie first above the Falls of the Co- lumbia river ; the second at and below the Cascades ; the third towards and along the shores of the Pacific. From each of these, branches extend in different directions. Be- sides these there are others which are large and high, such as the Blue Mountains south of Walla Walla — the Salmon river mountains between Salmon and the Cooscoot.ske rivers ; and also in the regions of Okan- agan and Colvile. Between these mountains are widespread valleys and plains. Tlic largest and most fertile valley is included be- tween Deer island on the west, to within twelve miles of the Cascades, and is about fifty-five miles wide, and extend- ing north and south to a creator extent than I had the means of definitely ascertaining ; probably from Pugets sound on the north, to the Umbiqui'i river on the south. The Willa- mette river and a section of the Columbia are included in this valley. The valley south of the Walla Walla, called the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. To these may be added Pierre's Hole and adjacent country ; also Racine Amrre, east of the Salmon river mountains. On Mill river, which unites with the Columbia at Colvile, from the south, through a valley of more than fifty miles, there are rich bottom lands. While these are open and ready for cultivation, the hills on both sides of the valley are cov- ered with woods. Other fertile sections of considerable magnitude are dispersed over dilferent parts of the country. To these may be subjoined extensive plains, most of which are prairies well covered with grass. The whole region of country west of Salmon river mountains, the Spokein woods, Okanagan, and quite to the range of mountains which cross the Columbia at the Falls, is a vast prairie I- 'i^: .fc ?i -i 1* I' 'j.j , L if I 224 FORESTS — niVETtS. covered with frrass, and the soil is generally good. Another Inrge plain, which is said to he very harren, lies off to the south-west of Lewis' or Snal<(^ river, ineliidiiijr the Sho- shones' eoiinfry ; and travelers who have passed through have pronounced the interior of America a great harren desert ; but this is drawing a conclusion far too broad from premises so limited. So far as I have had opportunity for observation, I should foel warranted in saying, that while some parts of Oregon are barren, largo portions an* well adapted to grazing ; and others, though less extensive, to both tillage and grazing. lipon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a largo proportion of the country west of the mountains is destitute, while some parts are well Huppli(>d. I have al- ready mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls of the Colund)ia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and densely in many parts, especially near the ocean. The mountains north of the Salmon river, and the country about the Sjwkein river, and so on still farther north, are well furnished with forests, and in some other sections there are partial supplies. The country in general is well watered, being intersected with lakes, and many large rivers and tributary streams. This might be inferred from the fact that tiiere arc so munv mountains, upon the sides and at the bases oi' which are mul- titudes of the finest springs. No country furnishes \\ater more pure and of such crjstal clearness. As the spring and summer heat commences, the snows of the moimtains melt, and begin to swell the rivers in the beginning of May. and the freshet continues to increase until June, when it is the greatest, and overflows large sections of the low lands of the valleys, which have the apj)carance of inland seas. ^^.> It IS aiuls icas. niVERS. While \\\r rivors of this country uro numerous, and hovcteI of thcni are lur<,'e, yet iiihiiid navi;j;ation will !)(> attended with (lillieulties, not only fVoin the many falls and ra|)ids, but from th(; lahor and expense necessary to construct ca- nals throu^di the i.mnenscly hard basaltic rock ftnnation. The (yohnnbia has three larj^'o fulls in the distance of seven hundred miles; the Cascades, one hundred and thirty miles from the ocean at the head of tidc^ water ; the Falls of the Columbia, (()rty miles above the (Cascades ; and the Kettle Falls, (ivi> hundred and thirty miles above the l''alls of the Colimd)ia. There are many rapids, but the Nine-mlle Ra- pids, tiiirty miles above Walla Walla, are the most cndnir- rassin^i^. The other rivers are still more obstructed wltli falls and i-apids, except the Willamette, which has only one fall at the head of its tide water, thirty miles above its jimction with the Columbia. The obstruction to a canal around this, is far less than around the above named falls ; and when constructed, the navigation may be extended iifty miles farther into the country. "While such is the condition of the country in respect to its inter- nal navigation and conunerce, the ingenuity of man in our day, has provided something which van bo most advanta- geously applied as a remedy. I mean rail-rfiads. In making observations, with reference to this very subject, I was interested to see the wisdom and benevolence of the Creator, in providing j)asscs through the e stupen- dous ranges of mountains, running generally from north to south, and I ihouiiht bow easilv the whole territory might be traversed in this way ; and the large pentag- onal basaltic colunms arc ready at hand to facilitate the work. No country in the world furnishes better opportunities for water power to be applied to manufuc- i>0* '■Hi \',i\ 'i ''I ■'' 1 t 1 ■ i i, 1: i,. 1 226 THE SEASONS. f.l I H :] turing purposes ; every river and stream having falls, cas- cades and rapids. The seasons. Tliese are divided into two, the rainy in the winter, commencing in November and terminating in May ; the dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute ol' rain, and during which time the atmosphere is remarkably serene ; the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the sun, and the season is most delightful. The climate is far more temperate and warm west of the Rocky Mountains, than east in the same latitude, there being at least ten degrees difference of latitude, as may be seen by the subjoined me- teorological table. There were only three days in the whole winter of my residence in the country, that the ther- mometer sunk as low as 22® Fahrenheit, at Fort Vancou- ver ; and there were only two mornings in the whole month of March when white frost was seen. Snow does not fall deep excepting upon the mountains ; in the valleys it rarely continues more than a few days, or at the farthest only a few weeks ; and by the latter part of February or the first of March, ploughing and sowing is commenced. And not only is the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is also healthy, and there are scarcely any prevailing diseases. except the fever and ague in the lower country, which, as has been stated, commenced in 1829 ; and the ophthalmy, which is very general among the Indians of the plains. It is worthy of notice, that thunder and lightning are seldom witnessed west of the mountains, but in the val- ley of the Mississippi, they are very frequent and unu- sually heavy. The entire destitution of rain, showers and dew, during summer, does not exclude fertility ; nor is it peculiar to this country, for the sf 'He is true of the whole Pacific coast THE SEASONS. 227 west of the Ancles, and also of the Sandwich and Society Islands— yet hy various methods of irrigation the soil is rendered productive. In the country which I am descri- bing, the winter being so mild, the grain sown in the fall and spring advances beyond injury before the drouth be- comes severe, and the grass attains its growth and dries into iiay upon the ground ; and there being no moisture to de- compose it, retains its nutritive properties. : tvl. i^ im m iii m .1 '.' ■ T 'hi i'M s . li if ■^!; 1 ll it INDIANS OF THE PLAINS. f, '« it CHAPTER XVI. Character and condition of the Indians— Indians of tlie plains — their persons — dress — wcaltli — -habits— pliysical character— manufactures — their rehgion — wars — vices — moral disposition — superstitions — medicine men. As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains, tlieir numbers, and the prospects of establishing the gospel among them, it will not only be proper but im- portant to give a full and connected description of them in these respects. In doing this, while I have availed myself of information collected from men of intclli'fence and in- tegrity, I have confined my statements to those things which have been corroborated by, or came under my own obser- vations ; feeling it a duty to avoid the many fabulous ac- counts which have been given of Indian character and cus- toms. Romance may please and excite admiration, fiction may charm, but only truth can instruct. I will first describe the Indians of the plains. These live in the upper country from the Falls of the Columbia to the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairie land. Tiic principal tribes are the Nez Forces, Cayuses, Walla Wallas, Bonax, Siioshoncs, Spokeins, Flathcads, Caiur d'Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kcttlefalls, Okanagans, and Carriers. These do not include probably more than one half of those cast of the Falls, but of others I have ob- t •: .'.■«■ I COSTUME. 229 These Inltia to of the (iraii'ie .yuscs, llieaii.s, jairans, tluui Ivc ob- tained but little definite knowledge. They all resemble each other in general characteristics. In their persons the men are tall, the women are of common stature, and both are well formed. While there is a strong natural as well as moral resemblance among all Indians, the complexion of these is a little fairer than other Indians. Their hair and eyes are black, their cheek bones high, and very frequent- ly they have aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ankles, are small and well formed ; and their movements are easy, if not graceful. Tiiey wear their hair long, part it upon tlieir forehead, and let it hang in tresses on each side, or down behind. There is a great resemblance in the dress of different tribes, which generally consist of a shirt, worn over long, close leggins, with moccasons for the feet. These are of dressed leather made of the skins of deer, antelope, mountain goat and sheep ; and over these they wear a blanket or buifalo robe. Tile borders of their garments are ornamented with long fringes. They are fond of ornaments, and their heads and garments arc decorated with feathers, beads, buttons, and porcupine quills ; these last are colored rod, yellow, blue, and black, and worked with groat skill and variety of design. They appear to have less of the propensity to adorn themselves with painting, than the Indians east of the moun- tains ; but not unfreciuently vermilion, mixed with red (day, is used not only upon their faces, but upon their hair. The dress of the women does not vary much from that of the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt, they have what we may call a frock coming down to the ankles. -Many of them wear a largo cape made of dressed skins, often highly ornamented wiih large oblong beads of blue, red, purple, and white, arranged in curved lines covering ,1 t ■Miii; , I. 230 THEIR WEALTH. t ! the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when clothed in their clean, white dresses of antelope skins, with their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, and mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their or- naments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appearance that would not lose in comparison with equestrian ladies of the east. Their horses are not less finely caparisoned with blue and scarlet trimmings about their heads, breasts, and loins, hung with little brass bells. While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all hea- then, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible tlian others, and far more neat than those of the lower country towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood that there are not those who are poor, suffering from the want of food and clothing. Their wealth consists in their horses, and their conse- quence depends in a great degree upon the number they possess, some owning several hundreds ; and that family is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man, woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling from place to place ; and also to carry all tl\eir effects. In these respects they are far better supplied than any tribes I saw east of the mountains. While their horses are their wealth, they derive but little from them for the support of themselves and families ; for they do not employ them to cultivate the earth ; and the market for them is so low, that they command but a small price. A good horse will not sell for more than enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small articles of merchandize. For subsistence, they necessarily depend upon hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most HABITS. 231 In tribes their wrt of icm to that lot sell small sarily and Most of their food is roasted, and thcv excel in roastinn; fish. The process is to build a small fire in the centre of their lodge, to fix the fish upon a stick two or three feet long, and place one end in the ground so as to bring the fish partly over the fire, and then by a slow process it is most thoroughly roast- ed without scorching, or scarcely changing the color. The principal art consists in taking time, and our best cooks might improve by following their mode. The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a gen- eral remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to con- firm its truth among the Indians of the plains \ for I rarely saw any of these Indians not engaged in some object of pursuit; not the most productive perhaps, but such as enlist- ed their attention. While I believe that the resemblance, both physical and moral, of all the different nations and tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of the conti- nent of America, is greater than is seen in any people of any other country of equal extent, yet if it is true, that as a general fact, "they are morose and gloomy in their coun- tenances ; sullen, or bacchanalian in their dispositions ; that they are rarely so joyful as to laugh unless excited by ar- dent spirits ; that they are taciturn and never indulge in mirth ; that they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of social aiTections ; that in proud disdain they turn away from whatever would excite curiosity ; that no common mo- tives or endearments excite them to action;" if these things are true, then the Indians in Oregon arc an exception to the general fact. In all the above named particulars, I saw no special dilFerence between them and other nations. As a part of the human family, they have the same natural pro- pensities and the same social affections. They are cheer- ful and often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate ; and anx- m ■iW 'i32 MANUFACTURES. ious to receive instruction in wlmtevcr may condnce to their Imppiness hero or horoafter. It is worse than idle to speak of " physical insensibility inwrought into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their bodies approximate to the in- sensibility of horses' hoofs." The influence of this kind of remark is to produce, in the bosoms of all who read them, the same insensibility that is charged upon the na- tive character of the Indians, To represent their charac- ters and tiicir restoration to the common feelings of hu- manity so hopeless, is to steel the heart of even Christian- ity itself, if it were possible, against all sympathy, and to paralizc all exertions and effort to save them from the two- fold destruction to which they doom them, temporal and eternal. Is this the reason that Christians arc sitting in such supineness over their condition, and that the heart- thrilling appeals for teachers to enlighten them arc disre- garded ? Is this the reason, that vvliilo the philanthropy of the United States' citizens towards them is so widely bla- zoned, those who arc sent to teach them the arts of civilized life, are sitting quiet on the borders in govermental pay, while the Indians are roaming still over the prairies in search of uncertain and precarious game ? I forbear to tell the whole story. They have but few manufactures, and those are the most plain and simple, not extending much beyond dressing the skins of animals, and making them into clothing; making bows and arrows and some few articles of furniture. In dressing skins they never make any use of bark or tannin. Their process is to remove the hair and flesh from the skins by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, or when it can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop, and tlien besmearing them with the brains of some animal, they smoke them IMAMJFACTURES. 233 most the iking thorouglily and rub tlicni until tlioy are soft ; and after this bleacli them with pure white clay. Their mode of smoking them is to excavate a small place in the ground, about a foot deep, and over this to construct a fixture in the form of a lodge, a {"ow feet wide at the base and brought to a point at the top. Then they build a small fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon the frame work, so as to make the enclosure almost smoke tight. The process occupies about one day. Their mode of dressing buffalo robes is different. They stretch the skin upon the ground, flesh side up, fastening it down with pins around the border, and then with an instrument formed somewhat like a coop- er's ad/, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of iron, brought to a blunt edge like the currier's knife, they clear from it all remaining flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same instrument, they work upon it with a pounding, hewing stroke, until they have brought it to a suitable thickness and rendered it soft and white, as our buffalo robes are when brought into market. It is a work of great labor, and is performed by the women. We little think how much toil it costs a woman to prepare one of these robes, and then how little is paid for it by the pur- chaser ; a pound of tobacco or a bunch of beads, is as much as the Indian generally receives. Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength- ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side, and the string is made of the same substance. Their ar- rows are made of heavy wood, with one end tlppod with a sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with a feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing execution, and they manage them with great dexterity. 21 ■■}' ,f 234 MANUFACTURES. i 11^ lii' ■ ( Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a brass kettle, tin j)ail, and a very few knives. They have bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the horns of buHalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and more solid, from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep. They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo horns ; also various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship. Their saddles arc rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on the back part ; generally sitting uneasily upon the horse's back. Their bridles consist of a rope well made of the hair, or shag of the buffalo, eight or ten feet long, fastened in the centre to the under jaw of the horse, and the ends are brought over the neck for reins. The lasso, which is used for catching horses and some kinds of wild animals, is a long rope with a large noose at one end, and the other end is held firmly in the hand ; the whole is coiled, and when the distance permits it to be thrown, it is usually so dexterously done, as to bring the noose over the animal's head. When mounted, they often have a long leather thong, or a rope, fastened upon the horse's neck, which trails upon the ground, and is frequently suffered to remain whv./i the horse is turned loose, for the convenience of more easily catching him again. Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the traders, were, with great labor and patience, made with hatchets of stone ; and even now, cost them no small effort. A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or two good horses. Their fishing nets are another article which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in every particular like our scoop nets. RELIGION — BELIEF. 235 As regards the religion of the Indians, I have already stated that they believe in one God, in the immortality of the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But while these are the prominent points of their belief, definite ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely limited, both in number and in comprehensiveness. As much as this, however, appears to be true. They believe in one V Great Spirit, who has created all things, governs all impor-, tant events, who is the author of all good, and the only ob- ject of religious homage. They believe he may be dis- pleased with them for their bad conduct, and in his dis- pleasure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in an evil spirit, whom they call cinhn kcncki meohot cimno- chno ; that is, the black chief below, who is the author of all the evils which befall them, undeserved as a punish- ment from the Great Spirit above. They believe that the soul enters the future world with a similar form, and in circumstances like those under which it existed in this life. They believe that in a future state, the happiness of the good consists in an abundance and enjoyment of those things which they value here, that their present sources of happiness will be carried to perfection ; and that the pun- ishment of the bad will consist in entire exclusion from every source of happiness, and in finding all causes of mis- ery here, greatly multiplied hereafter. Thus their ideas of future happiness and misery arc found to vary according to their different situations and employments in life. It is difiicult, if not impossible, to ascertain any thing of their religious belief beyond these general notions. The number of words and lorms in their language expressive of abstract and spiritual ideas, is very small, so that those who wish to instruct them in these subjects, are compelled to do it by « ii!; ■^m i' m { ,;; f 236 WAR. means oi' illustrations and circumlocutions, and the intro- duction of words from foreign languages. Besides, con- scious of their ignorance, they are, for the most })art, un- willing to expose it, by revealing the little knowledge which they possess. Indeed, wherever a feeling of ignort nee upon any subject prevails, we lind that all endeavors to elicit the true amount of knowledge, are 'opelled or evaded. Kvon men of talents, with us, who converse fluently uj)on most subjects, arc often silent when religious topics «rc iiitro- duced. I am far from I'^Mcving the many lorg and strange tra- ditions, with whicn we are often entertained. It is more than probable, that they are in inosl instances the gratui- tous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunt'Ts to that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to sub- jects of this description. The Indians themselves would often bo as much surprised at the rehearsal of these tradi- tions, as those are for whose amusement they are fabricated. My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the Ilud- .son Bay Company, who have long been resident in the In- dian country, and have become extensively acquainted with their languages. The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have no wars among themselves, anil appear to be averse to them, and do not enter into battle except in self-defense. and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars arc with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east border of the Rocky Mountains, and who are constantly roving about in war parties, on both sides, in quest of plun- der. When the Indians on the west meet with any of these parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if compelled I • • • WAR — VICES. U37 to fiyht, they sliovv a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and rusli upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity ; and it is said that one Nez Perce, or Flathead warrior, is a match for thrcD Blackfeet. The only advantaj^e which the latter have over the former consists in their numbers, there being more than twenty thousand of the Blackfeet Indians. When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the women take charge of them, while every man seizes his weapons of war, whatever they may be, mounts his horse, and waits firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they rush forward to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat upon their horses as t'^r'V di*aw near, and fire, and wheel, and reload, and again rush full speed to the second encoun- ter. This is continued until victory is decided, which is as often by the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men.. Very frequently, when t; e Blackfeet see white men with the Nez Percys or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though far superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can furnish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases, they will raise a white Hag, and come in to smoke the pipe of peace. The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an occasion, will say " wo accept your offer to smoke the pipe of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart is war,, and your hand blood, but we love peace. You give us the pipe, but blood always follows." But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion which they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much prac- ticed in running horses, and foot races, by men, women and children, and they have games of chance played with sticks or bones. When I told the Nez Perces that gambling is 21* .u ;v iX'V M '*j! 4 t )•■ 298 (iOOD MORALS. wroii!,', and a violation of tlin tontli coinniandinont ; for ir is rovotin;hted, acquired by their habits of closely and carefully watching li)r "'amo. These nations beincf, from their mode of sub- sistenco, more stationary than those of the plains, have more durable and comfortable halntations, which are builtof split ])lank, after the manner of Wanaxka's, near the falls of the Willamette, which I have described. Some of them indulge the fancy of making their doors like the face of a man, the mouth being the place of entrance. The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as jjood taste, as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, and are made of inferior materials ; such as deerskins with the hair on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. I saw many women of the poorer class, dressed in a short petticoat or skirt, made of cedar bark, or a species of strong grass twisted into strands, one end of which is secured in a girdle or band to the waist, while the other is suspended, knotted and fringed. These are a substitute for cloth, which they are too poor to obtain. The nations near the ocean, who iiave intercourse with sailors, and access to ardent spirits, are as degraded as those on our frontiers, and from the same causes. By their communication with those who furnish them with the means of intoxication, and who have introduced kindred vices, they have become indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more debased than the beasts of the earth. How perfectly neat are the deer and the antelope ; how industri- ous the beaver and the bee ; how cleanly is the plumage 22 I i!- iriN ■ ■X'- : ■s 'i: i. ,Ml'^ 246 INDIAUrS OF THE LOWEH COUNTRY. ' ■.ml ! of the bird ; liow well adapted to repose are their habita- tions ; in a wore how diflerent are all their habits, from those of fallen, pv. ;ted man. It is not the want of rational powers, but their abuse by sin which has thus degraded him, and nothing but Christianity can bring him back to God, and the comforts and decencies of life. The want of moral instruction, the influence of bad ex- amples, and unrestrained licentiousness, have brought the lower Indians into a state of wretchedness which will be en- tailed upon future generations, and which nothing but the healing power of the gospel can ever eradicate. There are some exceptions, but not enough to save these remnants of once populous nations, if benevolence and humanity do not soon break their slumbers. It is to be hoped the mis- sionaries, now in the field, by the blessing of God, will in- terpose a barrier to these sweeping desolations. In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from the upper Indians. While they believe in one Great Spirit, they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of this, when the May Dacre was passing down the river in October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the con- fluence of the Cowalitz, there are some dark recesses in tlie basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned Capt. L. not to approach those dark places ; for they were the residence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place; and the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con- cluded there must have been some great "medicine" in the ship which defended us. They believe in the immortality of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the t I ■ , I'- INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 247 Spirit, visible wer as nen of ver in le cen- ses in I Capt. re the nd all ; and d con- ' in the rtality ve the same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this be^ lief, the wife of Calpo, an influential chief of tiie Chenook village near Cape Disappointment, on losing a daughter in the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her to the world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of rowing her canoe to the far off happy regions of the south, where they locate their imaginary elysium. She deposited her daughter, with the two slain femah b} side in a canoe, with articles of clothing and douiootic ihij/iements. She was the daughter of Concomly, and a woman of distinguished talents and respectability, a firm friend of white men, and had more than once saved them from death. How dark was the mind of this talented woman, and how differently would she have conducted under the influence of divine revelation ! These Indians never mention the name of their relatives after they are dead. It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory, and along the coast that slavery exists. It was formerly practiced in the upper country, but was long since abolished. The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly owned and liberated by the Nez Perce Indians. They per- mitted, as I have stated above, their slaves to reside and to intermarry in their families, and reasoning on the princi- ples of natural justice, they concluded that it was not right to hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated them, and they are now a respectable tribe. Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, and carried to perfection. After they have lost every thing they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; first a hand, and if unsuccessful, the other; after this an arm, and in the same manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the head, and at last their head ; and if they lose this, they go iato f:i.i.i ■■:(■ 248 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. i'l: V- W perpetual slavery. If civilized men mil/ gamble, it is dcsi- rable they shoukl carry gaming to the same pcrf'etw' m ; for tiion they would cease to be pests in society, and however uiilerent may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery, in this we should generally be agreed, that such slavet would not deserve much commiseration. The Indian how ever, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game, ai civilized gamblers do, when they im{)recate the ctcrna vengeance of God upon themselves if they are not success ful. The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights ibi time onlv. It is a universal practice to indulge in smoking, but they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco. (3^ and with it they mix freely a plant which renders the fum( less oftensive. It is a social luxury, and for its enjoymen; ^ i.(^' they form a circle, using only one pipe. The principal ^ chief begins by drawing three whills, the first of which he sends upward, and then passes the pipe to the next per- son in dignity, and in like manner it passes : nid until it comes to the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in circling ascent, like a double-fiued chimney. Wiiili thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or sonn exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle-field, is rO' latcd ; and the whole is conducted with gravity. Thei pipes are variously constructed, and of dillerent materials. Some of them are wrouirht with much labor and ingenuitv of an argillaceous stone, of very fine texture, of a blue black color, found at the north of Queen Charlotte's island. It is the same kind of stone except in color, as that ibund upon the head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red. These stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are soft and ' i' :, ■ 1"NDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 24t) ! 4 easily worked with a knifo, but on bcinjT exposed to the air, become hard, and are susceptible of a very good polish. The Indians in the lower country arc more indolent than in the u|)per ; and the common motives for industry operate reversely from those in civilized comnmnities. Tiie more they can get for their labor, the less they will do ; the more they can get for an article in sale, the less they will bring into market. Their wants are but few, and when these are supplied, they will do no more. They have no dispo- sition to hoard up treasures, nor any enlarged plans to exe- cute, requiring expense and labor. If they have any par- ticular present want tO' supply, they will do what is suffi- cient to satisfy it, and make no farther effort until urged by a returning necessity. To make them industrious and pro- vident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate upon the comforts of life, and show them that they are attainablej and that there is an increase of happiness growing out of industry ; and all this must bo learned by experience, for abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail. An Indian may be taken abroad and instructed, and convinced of the advantages of civilization, but if sent back to his country alone, he will become discouraged, and return to his former habits. Missionaries, and practical farmers, and artisans, must go among them, and make it the business of their lives to do them good, and identify their own interests with theirs. Ciiarging them with indolence, and insensibility, and cruelty, will never make them wiser or bettor. lie is the true philanthropist, who, instead of passing by on the other side, goes to them, and does all in his power to raise them from their degradation, ami bring them to God and to heaven. The Indians of the lower countiy, although less anxious 22* ;? fi ! :|' Hill I, JoO INDIANS OF TIIK LOWER COUNTRY. [^i\m ^ '■'. to be instructed in the things of religion, than those of tlie upper country, express a readiness to receive instructors. I liave not found among thein, nor any Indians beyond tho influence of frontier settlements, any thing like what has been stated to have taken place in othiir sections of our country : that they will listen to statements made by mis- sionaries, and give their assent to what is said as very good ; and then state their own theories of religion, expecting the same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen any disposition manifested, to say that the Christian religion is good for white men, but as red men differ, they need a dif- ferent religion and mode of life. They have not yet been in- stigated by infidels to say such things. They are cunsciou.s of their ignorance af God and salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. While an indifference and apathy char- acterize some, which is discouraging, yet I know of no in. superable obstacles to their improvement. While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians, they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long time under a lingering and dangerous complaint. Their medicine men had done all they could for him, but without success. Tho father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancouver, and earnestly desired to have him treated with care and with the best medical attendance. The sick son was re- ceived, and in about six months was restored to healtli. When his father came to take him home, he remarked to Dr. McL. " My son is a good boy, he has been with you a long time, and I think you must love him ; and now as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and shirt, and as many other small things as yon think will be good? We shall always love you." lii: I ' ! INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 251 idev a ic men Tlio |2ouver, ire and las rc- Ihealth. ■kcd to li you a is he is ;ct and Kvill be The lower Indians " make tlieir medicine,"' in some par- ticulars, diirerently from those farther east. Their professed objects are to obtain present relief, if not a radical euro; to make his exit more easy if the patient dies, and that his soul may be rendered capable of performinff its journey to its far distant and happy country, and also to assuage the sorrow of surviving relatives. The process is simple, and occupies five or six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats and blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and sur- rounded by a frame work. Two "medicine men" place themselves upon this frame, and commence a chant in low long-drawn tones, each holding a wand in his hand, three or four feet long, with which they beat upon the frame, keeping time with their tune. They gradually increase the loudness and the movement of their medicine song, with a correspondent use of their wand, until the noiso becomes almost deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient out of the world. During this time the near relations affect indillerence to the condition of the sick person, lest their anxiety should counteract the influence of the charm, and they arc generally employed about their common business, the women in making mats, baskets, and moccasons; am the men lolling about, smoking, or conversing upon com- mon subjects. In some cases, especially if their conriJence ill the medicine man is small, they manifest mucli aiiliction and concern ; and in all cases after the person dies, they make great lamentation. I have already mentioned the practice of the lower na- tions of flattening their heads and piercing their noses. But another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-horse's tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long and an inch wide, inserted into a hole in their under lip, made for the ! ; .1 t ' - V \ ^^ i M INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. m ililli!!;; In m mv purpose, is not correct in roj^furd to any of tlio Indian.s In this section of country. Captain Heecliy mentions it as a common practice from Norton's island and northward ; wliich was noticed by Deslniow, as long ago as 1048, that this ornament was worn by men and women about Prince William's sound, and which custom, Captain B. says, is common the whole distance along the western shores of America, as fur as California. 1 saw some specimens of this ornament, or rather deformity, which were worn by the natives at Millbank Sound. t The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the num- I ber of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian of any distinction takes as many wives as he is able to support, and his wealth is supposed to accord with the number. They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only i mode of traveling is in canoes ; for the forests are so dense that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not construct any roads. As the upper Indians excel in horsemanship, so these excel in the management of canoes, wliich are un- commonly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a good bateau. They are generally made of the fir tree. The bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and ward ofl' the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decorated with figures of animals, and the upper edge of the canoe is ornamented with shells. Slaves are employed in propelling the canoes, but not exclusively ; for often the chiefs will perform their part of the labor, and the women are equally expert with the men. Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of the upper country, with the addition of hats and baskets of skil- ful workmanship, made of grass of superior quality, equal i liaii;; nship, .re un- ve to •rood The d oil' rated n fs ^vill rjually of the )f,skil- oqua'l INDIANS OF TlIK f.OWEIl COL'NTKY. •^5:1 to the Lcfrhorn. The native hats are a flarin;? cone. Their baskets are worked so closely as to hold water, and are used for pails. ►Sonic of them are interwoven with various colors and devices, I'ancit'ully representinj^ men, horses, and llowers. The •: 260 THE KOOTKA HUMMING BIRD. : :| i iii I'll': I 1:11 iii "ill!: ii; I English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and endea- vored to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. The} listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquired whether they might expect, after I should go away, that some one would come and teach them. I could not promise, but replied, that I hoped it would not be more than two snows, before some one would be sent. They enquired if afler one or two sleeps, I would let them come to my room and hear more about God. I appointed to meet them on Tuesday afternoon, and spoke with them several succeeding times before their departure. It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that the present is the favorable time for the introduction of the gospel and civilization among the natives of this wide inte- rior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men will make ag- gressions here, and the deadly influence of frontier vices will interpose a barrier to the religion which they now are so anxious to embrace and practice. Every circumstance combines to point out the time when this work should begin, and one of the most important is that these Indians are en- listed in favor of white men, and feel that their condition, in all respects, for this world, as well as the coming one, is better than their own. A well-established Christian influ- ence among these tribes, would surely be respected by those who otherwise would invade their rigjits, and deprive them of a home as dear to them as our own is to us. March 24th. The season is progressing in delightful mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are beginning to send forth their fragrance ; and the Nootka humming bird has arrived, and is seen darting from bush to bush, feeding upon the open flowers. This most splendid species is not known east of the mountains. The whole of the up- THE INDIAN NATIONS. 261 j-or part of the body is rufous, the head greenish, the throat cupreous and metalloidul crimson, varying according to the incidence of light. The throat of this species resembles that of the common, except, that it is even more gorgeous in its colors, and in presenting the metallic feathers, forms a broad ruff in the inferior part of the neck, instead of being wholly a component part of the plumage. The swallows made their appearance on the 12th, and a new species of blue bird of uncommonly beautiful plumage, arrived on the 14th. The swan, several species of geese, and the sand hill crane, are passing to the north for incubation. Their screaming notes are constantly heard, and in the night are not the most favorable to repose. Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper to- present, in a connected view, the best information I have been able to obtain of the several nations, their locations, and numbers. There are several tribes, about whom my knowledge is too limited to make any definite statements. Among them are those about Pugets Sound, and the upper part of the Cowalitz ; also the Chiltz Indians, north of the mouth of the Columbia and Chealis rivers. And although I have seen many of the Klicatat nation, who reside at the north of the Cascades, yot I have not been able to learn of them any thing more definite, than that they arc a large nation. The Chenook nation resides along upon the Co- lumbia river, from the Cascades to its confiuence with the i"*!, , ^ , ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, now num- ) ber not more than fifteen hundred, or two thousand.* v '/ - h*.' ' The Calapooah nation are located south of the Chenooks, ' ^'^"'^ iVirC^ ^ upon the Willamette river and its branches. 'I'hey are di- it) -, / . "^ (J ylA*. [ . * Five persons are the supposed number of a family. The nuinbor » of families is ascertained by their number of lodges or dwellings. 23* If r I. ^ i| '!)!. ii', ■ '*. ■f Till ii62 THE INDIAN NATIONS. videtl into seventeen dlfTcrent tribes, under their respectivo cliicfs, and number about eight thousand seven hundred and eighty persons, who spealc the same language, radically, witli only a little difierencc in dialeet. They are scattered over a territory of two hundred miles north and south, and sixty east and west. Their country is uncommonly good. South of the Calapooah is the Umbaquu nation, residing in a valley of the same name. They are divided into six tribes ; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, Quattamya, and C/hast^. Their number is about seven thousand. South of this nation and north of California, there was a very power- ful nation called the Kinclti, which before the year 1829, numbered four thousand warriors. But if they have been swept away by sickness, as the other nations of the lower country have, it is probable their whole number of men, women and children, would not now amount to more than eight thousand. Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the Killamooks, who are numerous, but their numbers are not known. South of these, and at the mouth of the Umbaquu river, there are the SaliQtla, and two other tribes, supposed to number 2000 persons. This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, makes the number of those known, to be about twenty-five thou- sand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be concluded, from facts now collected, that there arc, between the 42° and 47° north latitude, in what we term the lower country, as many as twenty-five thousand more, making fifty thousand, who probably at the present moment would gladly receive teachers. Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the follow- ing statements of the numbers of Indians north of Pugets i'lilh i I! i,;i It'll ! VI'; DUELING. 203 Sound, viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, numbering two tliousand one hundred and eighty-six. At llygana Harbor, ftve tribes or bands, amounting to two tliousand ninety-two. At Queen Charlottes Island, eleven tribes, numbering eight thousand six hundred persona. About Ilanaga and Chat- ham Straits, there arc nine tribes, containing six thousand one hundred and sixty persons. Making the whole number of inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47'' and 5.3'^ of north latitude, nineteen thousand thirty-eight. At Queen Charlottes Island there is a field of much promise for a missionary station, where the necessaries of life could be easily obtained, and for that high northern latitude, the climate is very mild. Their summer and winter residences are built of split plank, similar to those of the Chenooks. It is said they are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and potatoes of superior quality and in great abundance ; and wild meat i.'^ sometimes obtained. Their dress is much the same as what has already been described. Polygamy prevails, and /also slavery. { They do not treat their slaves with as much 1 kindness as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon ; Territory treat theirs. When they kill their slaves, the \ '., loss of property is the only thing tliey regard. Sometimes, i v^ lUmiliar with the language of signs. I enquired whose wf^rn ihose children. The younijer woman signified that three of them were hers, but the eldest was an orphan, whom she had adopted for her own ; and in the most pa- thetic manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little of which was intelligible. Tlu; aged matron sitting on the ground of her movable lodge, with her head reclined upon her hand, occasionally introduced a few sentences to aid the narration ; and so sad and affecting was the whole ac- cent and sound of theii' voices, that I freely sympathized with them, and nodd._d my assent to all thoy said. I re- gretted the necessity Avhich con>pelled me to leave them without being able to point them to Hiin, who is touched with the feelings of our infirmitv^, aiul who binds -ip the broken in heart. I thought, as I ^•,•alked slowly back to my breakfast, iiovv little of the savage character was exhiI)itod by these females, and on the contrary, how these amiable sensibilities would have done honor to any civili/ed society. Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side of ^•■1 FAMISHED INDIANS. 275 lircd the river, at a place of great resort for the IiuHans, hut they had not come in from tlicir winter rctroat. Tiierc were many canoes drawn up at a sliort distance from the shore, and left without any apprehensions of tiieir heing stolen, showing the confidence the Indians liavo in each others lionestv. Thcv do not need guards, nor holts and hars, and prisons. To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selected a place densely covered with wild broom corn of last year's growtii yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our oncajnpment, who were as miserable objects as I have seen. They were not more than half covered with tattered skins of rabbits patched togc thcr ; and were emaciated with star- vation. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of pity, the traveler needs to carry witii him a store of clothing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, without having the means of furnishing them sul)stantial relief. On the 25th, we made slov/ progress against the strong current with our poorly manncil bateau, and failing of arri- ving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, encamped under the high basaltic rocks, where wo found a small spot of soil furnishing some wood. The next morning we arrived at the fort, where I met at the landing a number of No/. Perce Indians waitinir mv arrival. I felt much satisfaction in seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of atfcction. It was lik(^ meeting old Iriends ; and there appeared to be so much unfeigned pleasure in the reception iliey gavo me, that it inspired the hope, thiit the disposition they express to learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation more permanent than novelty. I had told a baud of the Cay use Indians, on my way down the river last October, that I would ill m ^ ■^. i 176 FULFILMENT OF PROMISE. meet thorn here in the spring, and inform them about God and the way to worship him. Many of tliem were here, ready to attend to the fulfilment of my promise, and un- doubtedly my arrival at the appointed time, confirmed their confidence. As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to con- tinue here a week or two and improve such opportunities as might ofler for instructing the Indians residing near this place, and those who might come from more remote places ; making the best use of such facilities as can be obtained, without waiting for the thorough knowledge of their lan- guage, which the prudence of some persons would consider indispcnsible to the commenceincnt of teaching them the way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know what the religion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its gratification is postponed. The danger that delay will re- sult in indiflbrence or disgust, is as great as that an early attempt to impart instruction may be connected with imper- fections. During my continuance in this place, I preached on the Sabbath morning to the white people belonging to the fort, and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cayuse, Walla Walla, and Nez Perce tribes. Thoy always gave good at- tention, and some appeared to be nmch interested. An in- stance of opposition to the truths of the gospel occurred here, proving the truth of the scriptures, that the Savior is set for the fall and rising of those who hear. A chief of the Cay uses, who several times came to hear, disliked what was said about a plurality of wives. He said he would not part with any of his; for he had always lived ii: sin, and was going to the place of burning, and it was too late for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be saved ; A WALK — GRAND SCENERY. 2i i and as lie must go to that place, he would go in all his sins, and would not alter his life. Those who are familiar with the various methods to which sinners resort, to avoid the convictions of truth and conscience, may see in his deep ha- tred to holiness, that the operation of sin is the same in every unsanctified heart. This is the only instance of open opposition, that I witnessed among the Indians ; nor does it characterize the Cayuse tribe. They very much resem- ble the Nez Perccs in their peaceable disposition, and desire to be instructed, and present in connection with the Walla Wallas, a promising field of missionary labor. May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Colum- bia through the basaltic mountain, two miles below the fort, to take a more particular view of the scenery, than can be obtained in a hasty passage on the river. I ascended the iiiountain, from the top of which I had a fine prospect of the country around, opening in every direction as far as the eye could reach. All parts Avero covered with the fresh green of spring vegetation. Very few forests were to be seen in any direction, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the south, and these, instead of the fresh hues presented by for- ests at this season, were softened by the distance to a hazy blue. Even at this distance, the perpetual snows of Mount Hood, could be distinguished at the west, and at the north- west Mount Rainier near Puffets Sound ; and at the north and the east various parts of scattered mountains. After some time employed in looking around upon the vast ex- jKinse, [ approached the perpendicular walls, between which the Columbia descends, which are about three hundred feet higli, as I ascertained by the number o^ seconds occupied in tlie dosi;ent of large stones, projected from the brink of the precipice, which I distinctly heard when they struck upon thc' Iriir' 278 NUTRITIOUS GRASS. shore below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava, the latter varying much in color and density, some of it suf- ciently porous and light to swim upon water. Two thirds of the way down this deep channel, are two high eminences called the Pillars, to wliich, by a circuitous route, I de- scended. They stand upon conical bases, eighty or a hun- dred feet high above the river ; and above these bases rise nearly a hundred I'eet perpendicular. They are indeed re- markable ; but there are so many singular formations in this volcanic country, that curiosities become conimon. I returned, though much fatigued with my long walk over prairies, precipices, and mountains, yet gratified with the examination of the works of nature. My horses and mule, uhich I had left with the Nez Perec Indians, were kept in their country, one hundred and thirty miles east of this place, and were in April brought into this neighborhood. To-day, May 5th, they were caught and brought to the fort. I was surjjrised to find them in fine order, with now roats, and in high spirits. They had run out on the prairies wilLout any -■helter from the storms, and with no food, except what the remains of the previous sum- mer's growth afforded, together with the early grass of spring. Who would have supposed, considering their worn down condition, when I left them in October, that with no other fare they would have fattened during the winter. This fact shows the superior mildness of the climate, and the nu- tritive quality of prairie grass, even after dried up with the summer drouth. Another evidence of the truth of this remark may be seen in the condition of the cattle kept at this fort. With nothing more to feed upon than what they find upon the prairies, they are now not only in good order, but some of them are actually fat, and in as ii: I! ■ HIGH WIND. •^79 goofl condition for market, as oxen driven from the stalls of New lingland. 1 rode to-day with Mr. P. ton miles up the river to the conllurnco of the Lewis, or as it is called, the Nez Perec river, with the Columhia. They are hoth noble streams; the Columbia is nearly three-fourths of a mile, and the Nez Perce a half mile wide. The prospect around is de- lightful; tln^soil is good, as is evidenced by the fresh verdure which is springing up luxuriantly, at this early season large band of horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, ■ feeding here. It is a curious fact, that the Tndian horses do not often stray from the place where they arc left ; habit, however produced, is as good a safeguard as inclosures. Along upon the shores of the river, I found specimens of calcedony and cornelian. The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer stand- ing at noon, at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, which is an un frequent occurrence west of the great mountains. Towards and through the night the wind blew very strong- ly, and shook the bastion which I occupied, so that it seem- ed as if it would be prostrated to the earth : but such wind in this particular section of country is common. During the time of my continuance here, I had more frequent opportunities to address the Indians, and in greater numbers, than I had anticipated. From the promise that the word of God shall not return void, but shall accomplish that whereunto it is sent, may not the hope be indulged, that some good fruits will be the result of these labors. The Walla Walla tribe, though the descendants of emancipated slaves, are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with the same respect. ii l :'k ■' 1 1'' : r.'i 1 , n ill Ijli 'i ilL '^. # IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I i^|2£ 12.5 Hi m 20 1.25 1 1.4 III 1.6 6" - V <^ /: Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4S03 ■i ftj^ >? ^ M f ^ 4- y ^ f 280 JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY. CHAPTER XX. Journey to the Ncz Pcrcd countrj' — funeral of a child — natural sce- nery — worship on the Sabbath — return to Walla Wulla — industry of the Indian^ — battle ground— practice of smoking — journey to Colvilc. In company with several Ncz Perce Indians who had come down from their own country to escort me, I com- menced my journey on the ninth, and pursued the same route by which I came last autumn. Nothing eventful marked our way, and we arrived at the Snake or Lewis river, the evening of the eleventh, where we found several lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us a very cordial re- ception, and a warm-hearted shake of the hand, the com- mon expression of Indian friendship. The night of our ar- rival a little girl, about six or seven years of age, died, and on the morning of the twelfth they buried her. Every thing relating to the burial was conducted with great propriety. The grave was only about two feet deep ; for thoy have no spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the earth, and this was removed with the hands ; and with their hands they filled up the grave after the body was deposited in it. A mat was laid in the grave, then the body wrapped in its blanket, with the child's drinking cup and spoon made of horn ; then a mat of rushes spread over the whole, and filleil up, as above described. In this instance they had preparet' a cross to set up at the grave, most probably having been told to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I saw !!•■ « NATURAL SCENERY. 281 west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teachers, but as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. One grave in the same vilhige had a cross standing over it, which, to- gether with this, were the only relics of the kind I saw, du- ring my travels in the country. But as I viewed a cross of wood of no avail, to benefit either the dead or the living, and far more likely to operate as a salvo to a guilty con- science, or a stepping-stone to idolatry, than to be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke it in pieces. I then told them tliat we place a stone at the head and foot of the grave, only to mark the place ; and without a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our custom. As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the Cooscootske, on account of the liigh water, we had to pass over the huge precipices of basalt, at the foot of which we traveled down last fall, and which I have mentioned. We were compelled often to approach very near the brink, where it seemed as if we were almost suspended over the dizzy depth of three hundred feet. We arrived at the Cooscootske early in the afternoon of the third day after leaving Walla Walla, making the distance about 120 miles. The whole country had put on the loveliness of spring, and divested itself of the dreariness of winter, and the grandeur of the mountain scenery appeared to rise before me with new freshness and delight. The Indians are assembling in great numbers from diifercnt and distant parts of the country, to enquire about the religion that is to guide them to God and heaven ; and which they also think has power to elevate them in the scale of society in this world, and place them on a level with intelligent as well as Christian white men. 25 ■A- % .:l i i m .1 \ I ! i; .Is k\ 282 THE OPHTHALMY. On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, and down the Nez Percu river, the country is diversified witli hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, from five hundred to two thousand feet hijjh. The volcanic and ar- gillaceous strata are generally horizontal, but in some places thrown into various degrees of inclination, from horizontal to perpendicular ; in other places curved or waving. They have all the regularity of works of art, raised up by human skill ; why should not then the power and skill of an Omnip- otent hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works? After having been several months where the Indians of the lower country came daily under my observation, the contrast between them and these with whom I am now, is very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject, both in their manners and spirit ; while the latter are truly dignified and respectable in their manners and general ap- pearance, far less enslaved to their appetites, or to those vices whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know enough to set some estimate upon character, and have much of the proud independence of freemen ; and ai'e desirous of possessing a consequence in the estimation of other people, and for this reason, wish to be taught, and they receive any instruction with remarkable docility. Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with me ; but as I have little prospectof the arrival of my interpreter, I shall probably be left to commiserate their anxiety, while it will be out of my power to do them good. I have frequent applications to prescribe for the ophthal- my, with w-hich the people are much afllicted, and which I should think is a prevalent endemic. Calomel, applied in about tiie quantity of one grain to each eye, once in twenty- WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH. 283' remedy. four hours, I found to le an efficacious rious effects were known to have occurred from its use, and in most cases it was successful. The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill and bravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but say they now are afraid to go to war; for they no longer be- lieve that all who fall in battle go to a happy country. They now believe that the only way to be happy here or hereafter, is by knowing and doing what God requires. They have learned enough to fear the consequences of dying unforgivcn, but not sufficient to embrace the hopes and consolations of the gospel. I have been interested to see the reasonings of their minds, and the results of their reflec- tions, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not indif- ferent to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisi- tive, and capable of thought and investigation. They have obtained light sufficient, to show how great is the darkness in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to be hoped, that those efforts to enlighten them will be followed by those still more efficient, until that meridian day foretold in proph- ecy, shall fully come, and these heathen be given to the Savior with all the remote ends of the earth for a possession. Sabbath, 15th. Tlie interpreter I ha ' been expecting did not arrive, and consequently much of what I wished to say to those hundreds of Indians, could not be communicated for the want of a medium. I felt distressed for them. They desired to celebrate the Sabbath after a Christian manner. When the chiefs came and enquired what they should do, I told them to collect the people into an assembly and spend the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in conversation on those things about which I formerly in- 111 'I ,il; vl .«•!.; Hili: 284 RETURN TO WALLA WALLA. structcd them. Thoy did so, and it was truly afTocting to see their apparent reverence, order and devotion, while I could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed. The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales, and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the un- derstanding. As a proof that they have acquired some correct ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the employment of mere outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian who attended mc so faithfully on my outward route, came to me, anxious to describe the different manner in which he regarded the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teu- tacus. He said Charlie prayed with his lips, but Teutucus prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy much of his prayers, and if there is one among this multi- tude, who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited by the gospel, I believe it is this man. Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided what course to pursue in my future movements ; but came to the conclusion to proceed to the place of Rendezvous, and join the returning caravan, provided I could go by the way of the Grand Round, and to the south-west of the Snake river, and explore a part of the country which I had not passed through the preceding autumn. But the Indians chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river moun- tains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well ascertained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I wish- ed to explore the north-east branch of the Columbia, which runs through an important part of the country, and upon which, and its branches, many considerable tribes reside. To return l)y the way my company would travel, and by INDIAN INDUSTRY. 285 svell which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only partially accomplished ; and after canvassinjj the subject as deliberately as I could, I concluded to return to Walla Walla, procure guides and assistants, and go up the Co- lumbia as far as Colvile, which is the highest post of the Hudson Bay Company, about seven hundred miles, by the traveled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the In- dians of my determination, who, though they evidently pre- ferred that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the decision, and showed more kindness than I had expected. They readily appointed Haminllpilt, one of their young chiefs, to attend mo on my return down the river. After writing several letters, to forward to the United States from Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destina- tion, and at night arrived at the village on the Nez Perce river, where we had encamped on the eleventh. At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the in- dustry of these people. Some were engaged in catching fish, and gave me some excellent salmon ; the women and children were early out on horseback to procure the cowish root, which they often manufacture into bread ; and when we left, only a few old persons and very young children re- mained in their village. Five or six miles from this village, up a small branch of this river, we passed a spot, which some few years ago, was a battle-field between the Nez Percrs and some other nation, whose name I could not with certainty ascertain, but probably it was the Tuelca. The ground was judiciously chosen l)y the invading party, which was just back of a point of land coming down near the stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass, around which they opened a fire, while the Nez Perces, not expecting the approach of a foe, were taken by surprise, and fifteen or 25* IV •If' m n -,U il mm ■I'l 151 .Miii 280 PRACTICE OF SMOKING. twenty of their number were killed. The very spot where each individual fell, is now designated by heaps of stones raised three and four feet high. The country over which we passed to-day, a distance of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with hills and valleys and covered with its self- provided carpet of lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and travel- cd in company. Near night we encamped in a rich valley, through which a considerable stream of water runs to the north. Before it was dark, a number more whom I recog- nized as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently re- luctant to separate from our company. I conversed with them about the practice so universal among the men, of using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence, for which they pay almost as much as for their whole list of comforts besides. In reply to my arguments to dissuade them from its use, they said, "white men smoke." I ad- mitted the truth, but told them that all white men are not wise in every thing they do; that they have some practices which are not good, The Nez Perct's call tobacco, smoke, and remarked, " we are better then than white men ; for they eat smoke," — meaning tobacco — "we do not eat smoke." This to be sure was an argument of much shrewdness, and wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment to this stupefying vegetable, that to obtain it, they will part with the last article of food or clothing, or even take down the poles which uphold their dwellings, and sell them for fuel. In this view I regard it as a vice, from which they sliould be rescued if practicable. The 18th we continued our journey, and rode forty-five miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday, and better supplied with wood. On the upper part of the RICH SOIL. 287 Walla Walla river is a delifrlitful situation for a missionary ostablishmont, havin^r niany advantages not found for some distance around. It is not, however, so central for cither the Nez Perec's, Cayuses, or \Valla Wallas, as would be de- sirable, yet a mission located on this fertile field would draw around an interesting settlement, who would cultivate the soil, and be instructed. How easily might the plough go through these valleys, and what rich and abundant har- vests might be gathered by the hand of industry. But even now the spontaneous productions of these vast plains, inclu- ding millions of acres, are so profuse, that not the fiftieth part becomes the food of organic life. In some places bands of Indian horses are seen; the timid deer, or liare; the wary marmot, and the swift gazelle. But these, with other animals, consume so sinall a proportion, that these wide fields are comparatively unoccupied. We experienced a long detention on the morning of the 10th, in consequence of our horses wandering into a ravine, to which retreat we could not easily trace them. They did not, however, violate their rule, of making our encampment, for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles and arrived at Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north- east tour, and in writing letters to friciKi.s. Mr. P. assisted in obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French voyU' gcurs to be my assistants; one of whom could speak some English. I concluded to take horses, and go up through the Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia to the loft some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return to take the river. This would give a more extended observation of the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of their condition in regard to prospects of establishing teachers among them. n W I ■■t ' ^; ;1 1. i ' , hi ''■■' i !'■ ill h i) n J' If! ■' .1 1,'. i.''\ m 288 JOURNEY TO COLVILE. On Sabbath, the 22(1, wo had worship as usual, and the follDwlug day commenced the journey for Colvllc. Our course was in an easterly direction forty miles, and at nif^ht we found a new place to lay our heads for rest, in a valley l)rescntinjj all the appearance of the farmer's grass fields, ready ibr the mower's hand, and from which he expects to receive a future gain. But the natives, not aj)preciating these sources of profit, neglect them altogether, and gather only a scanty living from a few esculent roots, which grow spontaneously in the waste. t PALOOSE INDIANS. 289 CHAPTER XXI. Taloosc Indians — Pavilion river — extraordinary excavation — lost on tliu prairie — Indian principle — Spokcin woods and country — Indian ferry — Spokein valley — granite — volcanic curiosities — fertile valley — worship with the Spokcins — Mill river valley — arrival at Fort Colvile — description of the place — leave Colvilc for Fort Okanagan — a mountain of marble — Grand Could, or old bed of the Columbia — Okanagan described — Long rapids — arrive at Walla Walla. The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly course, and after traveling five hours over a somewhat high but diversified country, descended into a fertile valley, through which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river. Here we found a village of Paloose Indians who are a band of the Ncz Perct's. We hired them to assist us in crossing the river, which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid cur- rent. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of the current carried more than a half mile down the river before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we had to encounter the stream, before every thing was safely over ; and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the opposite shore. Tiiis, together with refitting, employed sev- eral hours. We traveled up the Pavilion river, which comes from the hioh lands that divide the waters of this and the Spokcin river. This river is walled up with basalt, gene- rally high and perpendicular, in various windings and forms, for the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places the walls arc spread out so widely as to enclose large spaces of rich interval ; in other places so closing upon the river M h:it l.i i i i' tfiji jji' • !i i % 11 iij 200 EXTRAORDINAnV EXCAVATION. h I us to leave only space sudicicnt for it to pass. The ni^'ht was cold, the thermometer standing on the morning of the 25th, at :)4°. We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire j)rairio, until we came to the south part of the Spokein country. Near the summit level which divides the waters of the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting ex- cavation, walled within by basaltic rocks. The pillars are regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in sec- tions of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined, making a wall from fiftv to one hundred feet hi^h. The excavated enclosure, though not in a regular form, is yet nearly entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the out- side of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gradually slopes ofl' in hills and dales. By what agency was this excavation fortned ? There is no appearance, as in many other places, of volcanic craters, unless it is itself a crater, and there are no signs of the action of water. May it not have been a subsidence ? I passed through it leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these luigc crys- tals, of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for that circumstance, that certain laws govern the mineral world, as well as the animal or vegetable. We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez Perc'' and Spo- kein nations. They all manifested a perfectly friendly disposition, but appeared to be poor, evidently in want of a comfortable subsistence. We stopped for the night, after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language differs almost entirely from that of any tribe or nation I have yet seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently acquainted with it to inform them of the object of my tour through their coun- LOST ON THK I'RAIIIIR. 291 try, with which they were not only satisfiod, imt ajjpa- rnntly intcrostciJ. VV(^ took an curly doparturo on the morning of tlin ^(Uh, hut iravoled only a tbw liours l)pfbro my Indiuti guides lost the track and tho course they shouM pursue. Jlccoming conddeiit that they were r\ot ri^'ht, I alighted and sot my pocket compass, and discovered that inst(^ud of a north-east direction, they were f^oing west. ICnquiring of them if they knew where to find our trail again, oneof them, ayoungchief, putting his hand to his head, and with gestures expressing the confusion of his mind, answered, waiiUi en soko, " I do not know." Our situation was rather cmharrassing. Wo had very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and at about an equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a widely extended prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants only for two days, and no probable means for obtaining more until we siiould arrive at tho fort ; to be lost under these circumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of a high mountain we had passed was in view, and we might retrace our path, and therefore I was determined not to lose sight of this land-mark, until wo should find the trail lead- ing to the Spokein river. While my guides went ofT in search of it, I could hardly fail to find even in our circum- stances, some amusement in the apathy of my two French- men. They arc so confiding in Indian skill to find their way through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing or go to sleep with the same heedless indidorence when lost in a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of a well known river, or performing the duties of the fort. They appear wholly unconsciousof danger on the approach of hunger and starvation, until long after tiio last morsel is consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils li IC,' , i III it ?■! H III J 292 SPOKEIN RIVER. that aflllct tlicm to-day. On this occasion these men spent the titno of our detention in cahn repose. After some time our guides returned and told mo they had found some Spo- kein Indians about a mile distant, who were traveling to- wards the south, but had stopped to refresh their horses. We proceeded to the place, and I engaged one of them to assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to the Spo.. kein river. He was a tall, intelligent looking man. IIo mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, jaded as our horses were, it was M'ith difficulty we could keep up with him. After going at this rate more than an hour, lie stopped, and pointed us to a lake, and said we should find the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their vil- lage on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go any farther, although I offered him a large compensation. His only, and unvarying answer was, that he had done for us all that was needed, and why should he perform any un- necessary labor for us and take pay. It appeared to be a principle with him, that it would be wrong for him to take pay for what we did not need. I was astonished at the hon- esty of this heathen, and his steadfast adherence to it, when I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who to be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unnecessary extent, and artfully deceive you to make you believe it very important. For his faithfulness and Iwncsiii I not only jiaid him on the spot to his satisfaction, but afterwards sent him a present of powder and balls, articles highly valued. Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the Spokein river, at four o'clock, P. M. A few miles after we left the lake, we entered the Spokein woods which are very exten- sive, consisting of yellow pitch and elastic pine, some hem- SPOKEIN VALLEY. 293 'pokein 'ft the loc, spruce and fir, together with various shrubbery. These arc tlio woods in which Ross Cox was lost, about the cir- cumstances of which lie gives a very interesting description, but wliich, so far as I have yet had an opportunity to judge, contains far more fiction than truth. But iiis multitude of growling bears, and howling wolves, and alarming rattle- snakes, of wiiich I have seen only one, may yet come out from their lurking places in hostile array. When we came to the river, which is about thirty rods wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian wlio keeps a canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women came to the river, and with uncommonly pleasant voices, together with the language of signs, tiie latter of which only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to u^, and my men would perform the labor of ferrying over our baggage. Tliey declined on account of the rapidity and streni'th of the current, the river being in full freshet. Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning. This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten- sively wide. The North-west Company had a trading post here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods })ros(Mit a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is seen in great numbers, flying from tree to tree, vociferating its chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens arc numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their intervals of labor, while constructing their habitations so 26 • I, 294 SPOKEIN VALLEY. admirably adapted for their tender offspring ; on an exam- ination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be as- tonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God has manifested himsef in supplying, instead of reason, a myste- rious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end to be accomplished. On the 27th, about the time in the morning mentioned by the two women, the Indian ferryman came, and crossed the river in his canoe. His appearance, together with that of his canoe, reminded me of jEneas' ferryman, who carried him over the Stygian lake. " Canites inculta jacct ; Sordidus ex hiinicris nodo dcpendet amictus, Coeruleam advertit cymbam, ripasque propinquat." After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the east side especially is very fertile. Here the village of the Spokeins is located, and one of their number has commenced the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has planted with potatoes, peas, and beans, and some other ve- getables ; all of which were flourishing, and were the first I had seen springing up under Indian industry Avcst of the mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley to the foot of the mountain on the east, and pointed out the trail we should pursue. As we wound our way up the mountain, I looked down into the valley we had crossed, and which stretches along the winding river, and drew in my imagination a picture of what it will be, when this peo- ple are brought under the influence of Christianity and civ- ilization. This section of country presents less appearance of volcanic operation ; and in several places I found granite VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES. 295 in its natural form and position, resembling that found in the Eastern States. When we had arrived at the summit of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, several miles wide, covered with yellow pine forming an open forest. Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of regular cones of vari- ous magnitudes, from those of only a few feet in diameter and height, to those a hundred in diameter and sixty feet high. They all had the same appearance, differing only in magnitude, and were composed of broken granite, in angular pieces, from those that were very small, to six or eight inches in diameter, and on the outside were nearly black, as if colored with rising smoke. They had more the appearance of being broken by manual labor, and piled up for future use in constructing roads or wharves, than the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause but the latter can be assigned. The sandy plain around them was un- disturbed, and large pine trees were growing about them as in other places. At the south of these were large rocks of granite, and in one place a basaltic dyke extending a hun- dred rods or more. After passing this plain, we descended and came again to the Spokein river, whicii makes a bond around to the north-east. In this place the valley is less extensive, and the mountains more precipitous. We again ascended the mountain, upon which granite and mica slate prevail, with- out any volcanic appearances. From tiiis we descended into a rich valley, which was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has the appearance of having been a lake filled up with mountain deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from which pro- ceeds a rivulet passing out at the south-west. Leaving f I 296 ANXIETY OF THE SPOKErNS. P' i- Ihis place, we wound around a mountain in a northerly (17- rection, down a valley less fertile but more extensive, and at four in the afternoon came to a stream of water, coming from the mountains at the east, where our guides said we must stop for the night. Near evening, several companies of Spokein and some Nez Perce Indians came riding into the place of our en- campment, and turned out their horses with ours in the half wood and prairie. The Spokeins, who had seen me on my way, and had learned who I was, sent information out to the various hunting parties, that a minister was passing through their country, and as it was the first time one was ever among them, they wished to see him and hear what he had to say to them. They brought with them a good interpre- ter, a young man of their nation, who had been in the school at the Red river settlement on the east side of the mountain, and had obtained a very good knowledge of English. We had public worship that evening in the Spokein and Ne/ Perce languages. One of the Nez Porces, a chief who understood the Spokein language, collected his])coj>le, a little to the left of the Spokeins, and translated the discourse as it was delivered, into the language of his people, without any interruption to the service. This was a plan of their own devising. All the circumstances combined were to me unu- sually interesting. Providences above my control had de- layed me three several times, and thus given them an oppor- tunity to collect their people and overtake me. Some of them had pursued my path a day and a half, and were unwilling to return, being resolved to accompany me to Colvile. These benighted Indians manifested the same solicitude to hear the gospel that others had done before. And as a most affecting proof that the impressions then made on their minds »i i MILL RIVER VALLEY. 297 were not momentary, they went home and erected in their village a church, constructed of rude materials surely, but designed, as they said, to furnish a place, that when the next missionary should arrive, he might stop and teach them.* The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain fell, but this did not prevent our early departure ; for it was ne- cessary to be on our way, as my men had the evening before consumed their entire stock of provisions, and, whatever might occur, we could procure no more until we should reach Colvile. We could not obtain any game, for being advised by the superintendent at Walla Walla not to en- cumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them behind. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direc- tion we came to a very fertile valley, well adapted to culti- vation, extending north and south at least fifty miles, and of various extent in widtii, from a half mile to two miles. The valley is an open prairie well supplied with grass, and even in this high latitude of 48°, cattle could do well through the whole year, without the labor of cutting hay. The hills on each side are covered with woods. x\s we proceeded down this valley, we came to villages of Indians who understood the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe, pro- bably to the Ca'ur d'Alene. Near their principal village we came to Mill river, which was in full freshet. They had no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage across. But the Nez Perec chief took part of it upon his shoulder, mounted his horse, and swam over, and crossed and re-crossed until all was upon the other side. I then * Tho name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes Spokane. I called them Spokans, but they corrected my pronuncia- tion, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until I was convinced that to give their nams a correct pronunciation it should be written Spokein. 26* k n I !; ;A \i.}i ^: >1 i |i 298 FORT COL VILE. crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable meth- od, but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback. After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my remaining stock of eatables with my destitute Frer.ch and Indian attendants, leaving the anticipation of our next meal to the time when, after a long day's industrious travel, we should find ourselves safely at Colvile. Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missiona- ry located here, would have easy access to the Spokein, Sap- well, Sintou-tou-oulish, Kettle falls, Lake, CcEur d'Ak'ne, and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field within two hundred miles, presenting the natural advanta- ges of mild climate, good soil, and forests. We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, after a weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, sur- rounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ; and a half mile below are Kettle falls, above which the river spreads out widely, and moves slowly, but just above the precipice it contracts into a narrow channel, and dis- appears from the view of the spectator at the fort, until seen winding its way among rocks below. This establish- ment is built for defense and is well stoccadcd,butso friend- ly have the natives always been, that no wars have ever occurred among them. It is occupied by some half dozen men with Indian families, and is well supplied with the useful animals and fowls common to farming establish- ments. The winter and summer grains, together with gar- den vegetables, are cultivated with success and in profusion. This place does not suffer with summer drouth, like many Worship at the fort. 299 other parts of this country, and rains are of frequent occur- rence ; the seasons here are not divided, as on tiie lower parts of the Columbia, into wet and dry. I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDonald, the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver ; but the kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge of the fort. I found here an old man, who thirty years be- fore accompanied Lewis and Clarke across the continent, and had for several years past taken up his residence here. He is in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter- preter to the neighboring Indians. On Sabbath the '29th, the people of the fort who under- stood English, assembled, and we worshiped the God of our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and from differ- ont nations had collected us in a little group in this re- gion of the world. The Indians too came about me and expressed great anxiety to be taught the revealed will of God. They endeavored to make me understand what their former traditionary belief and practices iiad been, and to let me know, that what they had learned from me was rea- sonable and satisfactory to them, and that tiiey wished to know all that related to so important and momentous a sub- ject. Hut our medium of communication was inadequate to a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God so loved the world that ho gave his only Son to die for its redemption. Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant re- gion they have invariably, with earnestness and importuni- ty, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of Christians. But how little of the faith, and love, and liberality of the church is invested in the most profitable of all enterprises, 1 . H i 300 JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. the conversion of tlie world. Should some one propose the- construction of a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and demonstrate the practicability of tiie measure, and show that nature has interposed no cilcctual barrier, and that it would concentrate not only the wliolc internal, but also the Ciiina trade, and the stock would produce annually a rich dividend, how soon would Christians engage in it. Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our journey down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the boats from this place on their late passage to Fort Vancou- ver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I changed my guides for two others; one a Spokein, and the other a Paloosc ; retaining my two r^oyageurs. As we left Fort Colvile we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Co- lumbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken cataract for the distance of one hundred feet, it was a su- blime spectacle. The whole scenery as we proceeded down the river was marked by variety, wildncss, and romantic grandeur, as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote regions, had consulted for her own amusement some of her most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around are constructed on a scale of magnificence, presenting al- most all the varieties of elevation, precipice, and forest. This is the country which by more than one of my prede- cessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, and rattle-snakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetrable, by ordinary courage ; but we found no indi- cations of the presence of these animals before this even- ing, when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once interrupted the universal silence by which we were sur- rounded. After a few hours ride, on the morning of the Slst, we LOCATION OF MARBLE. 301 re-crossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a much more numerous population than now obtain a subsist- ence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here afforded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in ferrying the river. In the neighborhood of this place 1 dis- covered a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river : some sections are pure white, while others are beautifully clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced freely with sulphuric acid. Tiiis will in time become very valuable, for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into various countries. Several miles below this marble loca- tion I was interested with the juxtaposition of granite and basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land one hundred and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there were large quantities of solid granite in its natural position, with- out any appearance of having undergone an igneous in- fluence, and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of i)asalt rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of having been thrown up by several successive volcanic erup- tions ; the earth on the back side gradually rising to a mountain. At this place we lef\ the river, to save traversing a great bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to reach it again befoi'e night. We pursued our way over an elevated prairie, destitute of wood and water. It became evident that night would overtake us before we could reach the river, unless we should urge forward with all the speed that hu. manity for our horses would permit. Before five o'clock we came near the great gulf walled up with basalt, which as we supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our 1 302 GRAND COULE. next object was to find a place where we could descend to its shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we found a descent by a ravine ; but to our disappointment discovered that it was the Grand Coule, which was un- doubtedly the former channel of the river. With consider, able difficulty we wound our way into it, and found it well covered with grass, and by searching, obtained a small supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is nearly a mile wide, with a level bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, as the river itself is in many places, with basaltic rocks, two and three hundred feet per- pendicular. This Coule separates to the left from the pres- ent channel of the Columbia, about one hundred miles be- low Colvile, and is about one hundred miles in length, when it again unites with the river. The basaltic appearances are exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences of eruptions at difTcrcnt periods of tiinc. A peculiarity in this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight or ten feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. Those who have traveled through the whole length of the Coule, rep- resent it as having the same general features tliroughout, while the whole distance of the river around to the place where it again unites, as I know from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a deep channel, cut through tho rocks. We left tho Grand Couk' early on the morning of the 1st of June, and with difficulty ascended the western bank. Before noon my guides lost the way to Okanagan, and wan- dered far out upon the wide prairie where there was no water. Losing my confidence in their knowledge of the country, except on some frequented routes, I directed my course for the river ; and perceiving a snow-topped moun- FORT OKANAGAN. no3 lain in the distance,! concliulod tlio river must lie between it and oiirselvcs, and accordingly made it my land- mark. Pursuing this direction a few hours with rapid speed, we came to a slope which gradually narrowed into a ravine, and introduced us at length to a spring of water. Our thirsty horses rushed into it, and it was with difllculty wo could control their excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the water of which continually gained acces- sions until it became a large stream, with a rich valley of alluvial bottom, and united its waters with the Columbia, a few miles above Fort Okanagan, the place of our destination. Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Co- lumbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from which, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the fort takes its name. It was first built by Mr. David Stu- art, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811. There is an open space of considerable extent around ; the soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but produ- cing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have contin- ued so long in its present channel, since leaving the Grand Coulc, as to form those extensive alluvial bottoms, which exist in many other parts of its course. After leaving the Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply timber for fuel, fencing or building. They are dependent on flood- wood which descends the river for their ordinary fuel, and the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far dis- tant, at the north there are snow-topped mountains, yet the country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place I had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe. Their personal appearance is less noble than the Spokcins, 1' -Aid M ' 1 9 'III I I. '■ 'I'h' ao4 OKANAOAN INDIANS. l)Ut tlicy nro not less pcuccublo, fricinlly and lionrst in tlioir (Jisjwsitidiis. 'I'liis is evident from the fact tliut the clmi'go rif the fort in the ubsenee of Cupt. Ogdcii, the suj)erinten- dent, was connnitted temporarily to ii Frciiehman, and sev- eral of the Indians. This tribe with the Shoosluips number about two thousand persons. They are nuich employed in ihc salmon fishery, and larjLfo (piantities are prepared by dryinif for the winter's use. Their country does not abound in {^ame, and hunting oeeuj)ies but little of their time. The climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, is very mild and salubrious. Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a bateau which wc obtained at this place ; and conmiitted our horses to my Indian guides to take them across the country to Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men was witiiout any suspicion, and I could trust them with our six horses, saddles and bridles, to go on any enterprise w ith- in their capacity to accomj)lish. They have so much self- respect that they would not on any account commit a crime, which would expel them from their people, induce them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free- men. We embarked in our boat, June 2d, to perform a voyage of foui' hundred miles, with the river in full freshet; and its strong current increased by high water, secured to us a ve- locity l)(>yond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and dashed over the breaking surges, where the least misman- agement would have caused inevitable submersion without any prospect of escape. But my vnyagcvrs showed by their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favor- ite element, and their gayety and songs began to revive, on ii rKTlllFIEI) TUKE 305 l>oin«^ rplievfil from the roiifrh, niid to tli<^m iiiiploasnnt jour, iicy (111 Ijorsclmt'lv, over hills ami down ruvirics, mid tliroii^^li tbrcsis. Tiiu rlasticitv oi' their iiafivo (diaracttr was al. most iiinr 'diiitcly ii j*[)ai'ont, and wo i^lidod on with ((dcrity, jnakiiiii: a vovni'i' of one hundn'd miles hoforc it was neocs. sary to seek our safety for the ni^ht oil hhore. The coun- try throuifh whitdi wo passed to-day was rather mountain- ous. I saw many locations of granite in its natural state, hut as we proceeded, volcanic- operations hegan to appear, and the granite exhihited the elfects of intense heat, until it wholly disappeared, and hreccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and lava took its place. In the afternoon we passed a perpen- dicular section of rock, two hundred and fifty feet high ; half way to the top of which, a petrified tree of considera- ble magnitude is suspended, ft appears to be retained Id its place by having its roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks, between the layers of ditlerent eruptions. How it procured its elevated situation is (juite a mystery. It could not have vegetated there, unless at the time of its growth, it was sup- ported by a surface upon which to rise ; and taking the pre- •sent condition of the rocks, it could not he deposited thoro by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gen- tlemen of the Hudson Bay ('ompany, and others who navi- gate this river, have amused themselves by shooting oil j)ieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was wholly a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few miles above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles. On the :Jd, as we approached the Long Rapids about fifty miles above Walla Walla they presented the appearance of waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their dis- tant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morning. To 27 II 806 LONG BAPIDS. '^ pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires courage and self-possession ; but knowing that these inland navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating ex- cursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I an- ticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, cascades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying scene- ry of nature's wildest and grandest forms, tliat keeps the mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable disposition of time, is pleasant. My voyageurs called my attention to a red lurid aspect of the atmosphere in the south, and said we should have a strong wind from that quarter. Their prognostication was soon realized. The gale did not last long, and the only remarkable feature was, that when it subsided, it was al- most instantaneously. Through the distance of about one hundred miles, which we passed to-day, the country is level and destitute of wood. I observed a bank of clay in layers of diversified struc- ture, such as I have often noticed. The difierent sections were of various colors ; some dusky red, some yellow, and blue, and others white, making an upright elevation of one hundred feet or more. Salmon are ascending the river in great numbers, and groups of Indians arc scattered along pursuing the employ- ment of catching them. Wherever we passed them, they ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA. 307 came off in their canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of which were roasted in the best manner, and served up on broad pieces of bark, which answered a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and often large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the bark. Upon these we dined, with- out bread, vegetables, or salt. My voyageurs found suffi- cient employment in the gratification of their appetites, to interrupt for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived at Walla Walla at evening, just in season to find shelter from one of the most violent thunder storms, accompanied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Such storms are of rare occurrence west of the mountains. ii; -4 ii^ fflii i /i m 308 SNAKE INDIANS. CHAPTER XXII. A Bummary of the Indians of the Upper comitry — names of the trilxK, their loeatlons and numbers — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancou- ver — swift passage down the river — run tiie Falls — ('ascades — dan- gerous eddy — arrive at Vancouver — slcain boat excursion. Having traveled over the most important parts of tin- upper country, and collected the facts of its physical condi- tion, together with tiie location, character, and condition of the most numerous trihes of Indians; hefore leaving this section of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proper to give a connected summary of these par- ticulars. On the south part of the Oregon Territory, ad- joining Upper California, are located the Shoshones or Snake Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their definite numbers, but the general estimate is that they arc more than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the most barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being cov- ered with scoria and other volcanic productions. These Indians arc poor, and as indicative of their condition and their resources, they are called Snake Indians, and Root- diaijcrs. Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buf- falo, and they very generally resort to the river in the sea- son of fishing. They have a tolerable supply of liorscs. When they go to Rendezvous they make a great display, advancing on horseback, dressed in their most fantastic manner, exhibiting all their ornaments of feathers, beads, wolf-tails, teeth and claws of animals, arranged according INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES. 309 to their notions of good taste. The warriors are armed, hideously painted, and those who have been wounded in bat- tle are very fond of showing their scars. After coursing around and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, they dismount and go through the ceremony of shaking hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many of the Utaws at Rendezvous. Their country is situated to the east and south-east of the Slioshones, about the Salt Lake and on the head waters of the Colorado river, which empties into the gulf of California. They number nearly four thou- sand persons, and appear to be a mild and peaceable people, Jionest, kind, and hospitable to strangers, and affectionate among themselves. They live by hunting, fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their dress is plain, and their manners are unassuming. Their country being in latitude about 41°, has a fine climate, and good soil. Proceeding north, we come to the country of the Nez Forces, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage and is throughout a fine grazing country. They number about two thousand five hundred ; but they have already been often mentioned. The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez Perces, and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits and morals. They are equally peaceable, honest and hospitable to strangers. They number more than two thousand persons. Their wealth consist in horses, which arc unusually fine and numerous ; it being no uncommon thing for one man to own several hundred. Their country, especially that about the (jrrand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spontane- ously cammas in great abundance, upon which, with fish and some game, they principally subsist. Tliey express the same anxiety to be instructed as the Nez Perces and Flatheads. 27* ••; \ ':] I h' 310 INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES. The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about tiii.' river of the same name, and range some distance below, along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employ- ments and moral habits, they do not materially differ from the last named tribes. The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perccs, and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along the Nez Perco river and up the Pavilion. They number about three hundred. The four last named tribes speak the same language with a little dialectical difference. North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. They number about eight hundred persons, besides some small tribes adjoining them who might be counted a part of their nation. I have so fully described them that it is unneces- sary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie and woods, and a large part is of primitive formation, and some parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves the children of the sun, which in their language is Spokein. Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and huntinjj, together with ffatherinsj roots and berries. I have stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, which it is to be hoped will be generally adopted, so that their present precarious mode of living may give place to that which will be substantial. They have many horses, but not so numerous as their neighbors farther south. East of these are the CcBur d'Alene Indians, whose num- bers are about seven hundred, and who are characterized by civility, honesty, and kindness. Their country is more open than tlio Spokeins', and equally, if not better adapted to agriculture. ho INDIANS — A CHIEF'S ANECDOTE. 311 The country of the Flathcads is still farther east and south-east, and extends to the Rocky ^Mountains. Tiiey are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their persons, no- ble, frank, and generous in tiicir dispositions, and have al- ways shown a firm attachment to white men. They num- ber about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering life. For subsistence they follow the buifalo upon the head wa- ters of Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the head waters of the Missouri. They have become a small tribe by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians, though they themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disposition. Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands, and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civili- zation, and in Christianity. Their country is mountainous, but intersected with plea- sant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie. The mountains are cold, but in the vallevs the climate is mild. x\n anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which illustrates their native chai'acter, and the propensity of In- dians to imitation. He said the first white men he saw, was when he was vounir. It was summer. He said, " These are a new people, they look cold, their faces are white and red ; go make a large fire, and I will ask them to come and warm them." In a short time his people had made a fire, and brouiflit new buffalo robes. The white men came into his lodge and he wrapped them in the robes and seated them by the fire that they might be warm. The robes slipped olf ; he replaced them. Soon the white men made signs to smoke their pipe. The chief thought they asked for food, and brought them meat. The white men gave him the pipe, and he and his people smoked, ii ) s'f i 312 INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES. M'^-^ • (f) (iW C " and after this they loved smoke, and they loved the white men, and said they were good." Tlic Pondoras are so like tiie Flatheads in person, man- ners, and character, that a particular description of them may bo passed over. They number about two thousand two hundred, and live on the north of Clarke's river, and on a lake wiiich takes its name from the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put un- der cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach them agriculture and to impart to them a knowledge of those things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros- perous community. Their language is the same as the Spokeins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a section of country to the north of the Ponderas along M'Gillivray's river, and are represented as an uncommonly interesting people. They speak a language distinct from all the tribes about them, open and sonorous, and free from gutturals, which are common in the language of the surrounding tribes. They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid and hon- est, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their num- bers, but probably they are not over a thousand. There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries are situated upon the waters of the north-east branch of the Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in their customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is un- necessary to go into a separate and particular description ^"' 01 each. I will mention the names, locations, and number of some of the principal tribes. North of the Cootanies arc the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand. South of these are the Lake Indians, so named from their place of residence, which is about the A v ;-;''' Lakes. They are about five hundred in number. At the south, and about DESCEND THE RIVER. 3ia Colvile, arc the Kettle Falls Indians, who number five hun- dred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpauolish, one thousand in number; and below these are the Shooshaps, having a population of five hundred and seventy-five. At the west and north-v/est, next in order are the Okanagans, numbering one thousand fifty. To the north and west are scvera) tribes, about whom I obtained no definite informa- tion. Between Olcanagan and the Tjong Rapids are detach- ments of Indians, who appear poor,and wanting in that man- ly and active spirit, which characterizes the tribes above named. South of the Long Raj)ids, to the confluence of Lewis' river with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans, a more active peojile, numbering about seven himdred. The whole number of the above named Indians is thirty-two thousand five hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a low esti- mate, and in the number, the Fall and La Dalles Indians are not included, nor many other numerous tribes residing at the north and south of the Falls of the Columbia, whose num- bers, I could not with certainty ascertain. We might more than double this number, and probably still come below the population of the upper country. The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came in safely, as I expected. After resting on the Sabbath, we renewed, on Monday the Cth, our voyage down the river, having rort Vancouver for our next destination. We exchanged the bateau for a large canoe, retaining the men who attended me from, Okanagan. Assisted by the high water, we made rapid progress until three in tlie afternoon, when a strong head wind compelled us to take to the land for the remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles. The Indians as usual came to us in their friendly manner, oficring us salmon, and asking for «Pi 314 RUN THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA. tobacco, which they esteem more highly than either gold or silver. They have been accustomed to traffic in this commodity, until they expect it of every passing traveler. The morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got un- der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavor to cfFect a landing on the north, we were at length, without the power of controlling our canoe, and in much danger, driven across to the opposite shore ; and here for the first time in all my travels, I found it impossible to pitch my tent, such being the strength of the wind, that it would have been carried away. The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrap- ping myself in my blankets and buffiilo robes, I laid me down in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit from the neighboring Indians. The following day we were able to resume our journey, and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday looked so forbidding. A little caution on the part of my experienced Frenchmen in regard to the numerous islands and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety. In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia, which, in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, follow, ed by raging rapids below. Bousheau, my steersman, pro- posed to run the falls, saying that there was no danger in full freshet, and that it would save a portage. We were then passing a section of the river where the banks were walled up with basalt ; and while I was revolving in my mind the chances of safety, I had concluded, that when we should come to the great basin below, I would be set on shore ; but when we came to the basin, the water of LA DALLES. 315 the river, ruslung from the mural slioros, formed impassa- ble breakers on the right and on tiic 1 and onward we must go, let consequences be what they would. We kept near the middle of the river, which was free from breakers, though not from high surges. Soon, with ama- zing velocity, we were over tiie cataract of the mighty wa- ters, and made our way into a bay at tlie head of the first portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water from those stupendous mountains above, was so great, that the narrow channel of the La Dalles, studded with basaltic islands, so obstructed the passage of the river, that the falls were almost lost in the depth. Such were the eddies and surging of the water among the rocky islands in the narrow broken channel of the La Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe was so large that twenty Indians were not too many to carry it safely. Their mode of carrying is to invert it upon their heads and shoulders, and then it is with ditliculty and danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines. When we came to the last portage, the Indians were not willing to take hold again unless we would pay them in powder and balls ; and although their demands were reasonable, yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and they would not perform the labor without the required articles. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential chief, to induce their men to perform the labor of making this last portage, and promised tliat I would send them the demand from Fort Vancouver, and for their security I would give them a talking paper. They stated to their people my proposal, and were about to succeed, when TilkT, the first chief, who had become familiar with an American trader, laughed at their credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people, that he i i \'y- 316 DANGKROUS WIIIIILI'OOL. had seen mo at the fort, and that ho lieard mo toaeh the In- dians wide valley below so inundated, as to pres(HU the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safely at the fort, lound niv friends W(dl, and exchanyed cordial congratulations. Sahhath, .lune lith, 1 preatdied to the people of tli(^ fort, and in the evening had a third service, in whicdi as hereto, fore, an opportunity was given to those present, to j)ropose questions on any subject of religion about wiiich they wished information. 1 was particularly gratified to find, that du- ring my absence, publi(; worship had been maintained, and an etlbrt had been made to bring tli(> rrcnch Caiuidians to attend upon religious instruction. They arc assembled twice on the Sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser- mon in French, arc reud to them by Dr. MeLaughlin. I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the promised powder and balls, by Capt. I)lack,a gentleman of the Company, who in a few days was to leave Vancouver for his station n(.)rth of Fort Okanagan. On tha 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat TJcaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the confluence of the western branch of the Multnomah; up this river into the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the Multnomah, and through it into the Columbia, and back to the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the annual tVeshet, and presented the ap[)earance of an immense bay, extending far into the couniry. The day was pleasant and our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections upon 1 i !, < I ; 1 III mt'^^ 320 NAVIGABLE WATERS. the probable changes which would take place in these re- mote regions, in a very few years. It was wholly an un- thought of thing when I first contemplated this enterprise, that I should find here this forerunner of conmierce and bu- siness. Tiie gayety which prevailed was often suspended, while we conversed of coming days, when with civilized men, all the rapid improvements in the arts of life, should be introduced over this new world, and wiien cities and vil- lages shall spring up on the west, as they are springing up on the east of the great mountains, and a new empire be added to the kingdoms of the earth. The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Ore- gon Territory, and this is navigable for ships but one hun- dred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it is the only one which afifords a harbor for large ships on the coast, from California to the 49* of north latitude. For bateaux and various other light craft, the Columbia and its branches are navicrable a thousand miles. The internal naviijation could not be mucli improved, unless at great expense, by canals around the rapids and falls, which are so numerous that ascending the river is now difiicult. Still a considerable interior trade is carried on by ineans of these waters, and the ingermity of men on the west, when it shall be mor(> extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on the east, for greatly improving the intercourse of remote and dilFer- ent portions of this territory. ■•p (JEOLOGV. 321 CHAPTER XXIII. Geology. Having remarked on the features of the country through which I passed, as I proceeded, I shall now give a more connected and summary view of facts, the result of my ob- servations in relation to the geology of that hitherto unex- plored region. In remarking, however, on the observed facts, it cannot be expected that I should be able to give a complete view of the geology of so extensive a territory; it being greater than the whole of the United States east of the Alleghany Mountains. The complexity, too, must be considered, of plainly marked phenomena, resulting from long continued igneous action, where both ancient and com- paratively recent products arc so blended, that time and much experience alone can resolve appearances, at first view inexplicable. Let the reader also add to this the cir- cumstances under which the author was compelled to note the data of his conclusions. He regrets that in iiis brief stay in the country, where many years are requisite fully to investigate all its interesting phenomena, and in a field so rich, he could make but few measurements, and only judge in most cases by approximate modes. As to the strict scientific accuracy of his statements, he deems it no more than just to say, that while he doubts not that the facts he details are worthy the attention of scientific men, and are correct in re, so that perfect reliance may be placed on them, yet he feels iiimself to have wanted that almost intu- 28* ^Ai 1 1 t ti tti •mm fM GEOLOGY, itive knowledge, which ho alone possesses who has long been a field-laborer. With these considerations the author presents the result of his observations, hoping the reader may find much that is valuable respecting these regions of the setting sun, re- plete as they are with interest, arising from grandeur both of scenery, and of developments of the modes and eflects ol' the operations of the great geological agents ; especially of that element, which in time past has wrought such chan- ges, and is yet gradually and more unperceivcdly produ- cing them ; where it has played all its frantic freaks, and then quietly left this spot with so few superimposed materi- als, that well developed phenomena may be leisurely ex- amined. My design is first to give a general view of the rocks of Oregon — then state a few facts in the form of remarks or descriptions — and then add a brief catalogue of minerals found in this Territory. After leaving the great secondary valley of the Missis- sippi, near the Black Hills, which are a range of lesser mountains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the geologist be- gins to find rocks of the Carboniferous Group, obscurely manifest beneath the deep soil, and anthracite coal in loose fragments on the banks of streams running into the Platte. Among and beyond the Black Hills, the carboniferous strata are clearly seen, the coal " cropping out" and presenting precisely the same features as did the Wilksbarre beds in Pennsylvania, when I saw them, before they were worked. Here, for several days, we rode ovc rocks, interspersed now and then with anthracite, and having marks of the presence of iron, as is usual in regular coal deposits. Passing this, tlie geologiGt i:?\t reaches another group, GEOLOGY. 323 IS long 3 result ch thai sun, re- ur both fleets of Mally of h ehan- r produ- iks, ami materi- vely ex- rocks of narks or minerals 3 Missis- of lesser logist be- ibscureh 1 in loose le Platte, ous strata resentiufi; 3 beds iu ) worked, crspersed ks of the dts. er group, either the upper secondary, or more recent rocks, lying at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. I was inclined to believe, from the fact that I was apparently geologically rising, as well as really ascending above the level of the ocean, that they were the latter. Red Shale, or sandstone, I found in what are termed the Red Butcs. Perhaps this is New Red Sandstone. Reaching the Rocky Mountains, which are a continuation of the Andes, depressed in Mexico, Granite becomes abun- dant, and other primary rocks, extending to an unknown dis- tance north and south, and more than a hundred miles east and west. This section, mostly covered with perpetual snow, ailbrds ample space for the study of glacial geologi- cal action, a subject now eliciting much attention. The valley through which we passed remarkably indicates the overruling hand of Providence, in providing an easy pass, where no serious obstacle presents itself to the construction of a rail-road. This and other valleys would undoubtedly, with facilities for observation, give equal opportunities to discover the formation of this vast chain, as has been done in regard to the great rocky ranges of the Eastern Con- tinent. Advancing westward, and emerging from the Rocky jMountains, there is found innnediately at their base Secon- dary Rocks ; but as we approach the borders of one of the great volcanic furnaces of the world, they are much bro- ken and tilted up, presenting some singular phenomena which I have mentioned in the journal, such as the forma- tion of narrow ridges with the strata at dilTerent angles. In some places these dyke-like ridges are nearly regular in size and distance, as though cracked by an upheaving force, and the fissures filled afterwards with earth ; and in other if 11 ■■■ M ,:; J' I it ' t'ii ^1: ;fT 824 GEOLOGY. ^ ill places existing in wedge- form masses, interspersed between otiier rocks, and iiaving other varieties of dislocation. The lithological character of the tract, over which we rode for two days, corresponds with that of the new red sandstone of the valley of the Connecticut. There are deposits both of the red and slaty colored strata — and their depth seems to bo quite great, as is evinced by bluffs. But, as I observed no organic remains, my inclination to believe that those rocks are the new red sandstone, is founded only on their mineral character, and the fact, a very important one, that they appear directly to underlay the saliferous rocks, or to lie immediately above them. Should these rocks, which are quite extensive, prove to be new red sandstone, it adds no little to the interest of the geology of a country so rich in other respects. Perhaps, as red rocks of the same kind lie on each side of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proved hereafter, that the range was elevated through a deposit of shale or new red sandstone. Directly after leaving the red sandstone, and passing a belt of volcanic operations, which also are found among the red and slaty rocks just described, (as will be seen by ref- erence to the Trois Tctons, the Butes, and other conical mountains, as exhibited on the map.) Saliferous Rocks are seen. Here is Native Salt, Chloride of Sodium, and red, green, brown, and white strata of indurated marl, agreeing in character with the geological features of the Bochnia and Wieliezka mines of Poland. These rocks also occupy quite a tract of country, as we were several days in passing them, and they seemed to reacli both north and south of the locality of rock salt, as is proved by the existence of the great Salt Lake at the south ; and travelers assort that native rock salt is found GEOLOGY. 325 to the north, and especially far to the south, near the Rocky Mountain range.* We have now arrived at Oregon proper, and find it a vast amphitheatre of volcanic operations, where- are exhibited in unexcelled magnificence, variety and distinctness, the pro- ductions of several periods. The Greenstone, found in connexion with the new red sandstone and saline rocks, undoubtedly belongs to the same period as tiiat of other countries. The Columnar Basalt, corresponding as it does with other similar eruptions in the eastern world, is probably cotempo- raneous with them. The same identity of time may be traced in regard to the trachyte, obsidian, clinkstone or phonolite, and other products, after allowing for ditferenco of circumstances of pressure, and rapidity of refrigeration. Recent eruptions also have taken place. The traces of igneous action, conmiencing near the Rocky Mountains, or mountains adjacent to them, in the sec- ondary rocks, are evinced by the disturbed state of these rocks, as already described, and grow more and more evi- dent until almost the whole region exhibits volcanic pro- ducts. In other places, the Primary of the Rocky Moun- tains, or mountains west of this range, first begins to be cracked and injected with dykes, then I'arther west termi- nates in the vast volcanic field of upper and lower Oregon. It is in vain to attempt fully to descril)e the volcanic op- erations here presented. Mountains of amygdaloid, the cavities of which are mostly vacant ; volcanic conglomer- ate, detritus, columnar basalt, and disintegrated lava, every where abound, together with other less frequent produc- r'll i^ * See Ures' Geology, page 373, and Professor Rogers' Report to th< British Geological Association. •i-^;,l vl 326 GEOLOGY. tions ; obsidian, clinkstone, pitclistone, and minerals found in the cavities of uniytrdaloid. The topsof hills and moun- tains are sometimes spread out into horizontal plains, others terminate in conical peaks or are rounded like domes. Escarpments are frequently presented like that in the plate heading this chapter. Regular craters, presenting them- selves in the Ibrm of cones and concave depressions, are often found in plains, or capping the summits of mountains; most of them, however, are more or less obscured by the lapse of time, but sti!' as marked as the extinct craters of the Sandwich Islands. The marked volcanic agency, man- ifesting itself in these and similar products, and completely occupying most of the country which we have termed upper and lower Oregon, continues to be evident until lost in the waters of the Pacific. In some places the Primary rocks seem ajrain to be found on the western coast. Near the mouth of the Columbia I noticed a few Tertiary rocks lying in silu, and obtained a few shells belonging to this deposit. Whetiier there is on the North West Coast a regular Terti- ary basin, partly on shore, and the rest under the ocean, remains to be determined. Queen Charlottes island on the north is, at least in part, primary. Primary rocks rise in various parts of the country, and are like islands in the vast volcanic field. Such are the Salmon river mountains, and the granite near the Spokein river, and other places. Wc have thus glanced at the rocks of Oregon as we pass westward. In relation to their extent in a northerly and southerly direction, I am unable to say much. Tiiere is evidence that igneous action has extended from Queen Charlottes island to California. Of the extent of the Salif- erous rocks, I have remarked. That they extend from north GEOLOGY, 327 Is found d moun- is, others ! domes, the plate ):' ^1 ^ : ^ !i ■•1 ] j III! ■f\^'^ ■I- ■ \A i 1 1 ■ 1 1 ' 380 GEOLOGY. of vvliicli arc regular crystalizcd pentagons, a distinguislicd one is on the high hmd.s dividing the waters of the Snake and Spokein rivers. The formations of this locality have many interesting characteristics, as deserihed on page 200. Another below the Cascades of the Coluinl)ia, where the regular pentagonal columns wall uj) the north side for the distance of half a mile. Here arc also found all the va- rieties of volcanic productions; — volcanic peaks, as diver- sified in their forms as they are numerous, being conical, denticulated, and needle-pointed ; varying in magnitudes, and rising one above another from ten feet to fifteen hun- dred feet. These occur almost entirely upon the south side. There are also numerous islands of basalt in the Columbia river and its branches, elevated often much above high freshet water. These are numerous in the La Dalles, and in the ancient bed of the Columbia, or Grand Ccule. These islands are the same in form and substance as the dykes which exist in various parts of the country. There is something similar to these Needles in what I have termed the Pillars, where one or two such needles occur alone, and rise some hundred feet. They are basalt, and so hard and comparatively smooth, that I can account in no other way for their production, than that they are dykes that have been injected into soit rock, or soil, which has since been removed by other agencies. The most re- markable instance of this is the PillarRock at the lower part of the rapids, below the Cascades, at the head of the tide water of the Columbia. It is about five hundred feet high ; and is perpendicular on the river side, and nearly so on the other sides ; and is wholly isolated upon a nar- row strip of bottom land, with a small base, and its appear- GEOLOGY. 331 ;uisho(i iSiuikc y have ro 200. vro the for the th(^ va- s diver- conical, nitudes, en hun- ic south t in the n much 1 the La r Grand ubstance country, what I 1 needles 'e basalt, I account they are fil, which most rc- he lower id of the id red feet id nearly n a nar- s appear- ance resembles a vast monument. Another such needle is found in the river near the mouth of the Columbia, and standinjr alone makes a vory conspicuous object. Another result of volcanic agency is seen in the Primary rocks, which pn cracks or fissures, through which gaseous products have esirapcd, without forming a crater, and indeed without ejecting any igneous solid matter. One locality of this kind presents a result somewiiat peculiar. It is on ele- vated land near the Spokein river. Hero are hundreds of regular cones, varying from a few feet in diameter and height, to a hundrtd Oi more in diameter at their base, and fifty or sixty feet high. They are made up of angular fragments of granite, fronj an inch to six or eight inches in size, and stand on a sandy plain now covered with yellow pine, apparently disturbed only at the places where these cones have broken through it. At a short distance south was granite in situ. Beside these cones was a dyke visible a hundred rods or more, the only other evidence of a dis- turbing force. These piles of fragments seem to have been mado by the escape of steam or gas, for they ap[)ear as if smoked by a fire from v/ithin the cones. Tlie Salmon river mountains allbnl another example similar to this. An ir- regular circular space of a hundred acres or more is cov- ered with immense quantities of granite broken into cubical and angular fragments, as though prepared for Macadami- zing the future turnpikes of Oregon. Tliese mountains, though mere islands of mica slate and granite in the great volcanic field, are quite extensive, and in addition to the breaking up of the granite by igneous forces, are also perforated by vents or chimneys, through which lava lias escaped. One of the highest points of the j)iountains which lay in my route, was one of these. It ia !:i! III 111 I i Id t'i i I f'j i i I iv i :: Hi 332 GEOLOGY. li a granite mountain with tlie top capped by a volcanic cone, rising like an immense pyramid. The passage in some places of granite into basalt, is easily traced, and the first igneous appearance is not a change of the structure, but multiplied fractures increase, until you find the granite bro- ken into large iVagments, and these diminishing in size, until they disappear in the distinct characteristics of volcanic agency, in whicli it is changed into a substance resembling trachyte ; if it has not become trachyte itself, while in situ. Smaller sections of granite are scattered over the country in forms of less dimensions, protruding from the earth ; but these are of somewhat rare occurrence. We have said that recent igneous action has taken place. A well authenticated instance occurred in Aujjust 1831. There was at this time at Fort Vancouver and vicinity, an uncommonly dark day which was thought to have been caused by an eruption of a volcano. The whole day was nearly as dark as night, except a slight red, lurid appear- ance, which was perceptible aatil near night. Lighted can- dles were necessary through the day. The atmosphere was filled with ashes which were very light, like the white ashes of wood ; all having the appearance of being produced by great fires, and yet none were known to have been in any part of the whole region around. The day was perfectly calm, without any wind. For a few days after, the fires out of doors were noticed to burn with a bluish flame, as though mixed with sulphur. There were no earthquakes. By observations which were made after the atmosphere be- came clear, it was thought the pure, white, perpetual snow upon Mount St. Helens was discolored, presenting a brown appearance, and therefore it was concluded, that there had been upon it a slight eruption. The Indians say they have GEOLOGY. 333 seen fires in the chasms of Mount Hood. Tilkl, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of more than ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen fires in the fis- sures of rocks in the last named mountain.* Though I have improved every opportunity which has been presented to make observations, and have also made many enquiries of men who have traveled extensively and for a long time in different parts of this country, some of whom are men of science, yet no evidence of fossil remains have been noticed, with the exception of a very few speci- mens, 1 saw a small shell, a TMrnZe^^a, which was found in a mountain south of Mount Hood, in theCallapooa country. Also a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve shells, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary formation. The largest specimens which I took, measure, longitudinal- ly, four and a half inches from the hinge, and transversely, five. They are very perfect, beautifully scalloped, and have all the lustre of living shells. Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, is walled up on its sides and studded with islands of basaltic rocks, rising in perpendicular height from twenty to four hundred feet ; the question forces itself upon the mind, what agency formed the channel of the Columbia and other rivers flowing through ridges and mountains of hard basalt? Un- doubtedly the action of water has worn the rock very con- siderably and effected changes, but perhaps by no principle of its action can it be supposed, that it has produced so long and so deep a channel, as the one through which the river * Since the publication of the above in olhcr editions, I have been credibly informed that lava was ejected at that time from Mount St. Helens. 29* 1^ ,1 ii \% ili- ul 11 ^! H J^^ ( 334 GEOLOGY. flows, and through such solid rock formations, differing but little from iron in hardness. That the channels of rivers owe their existence to other causes than the action of water, is no new idea. Indeed very many are now described as formed otherwise. In relation to the channels of the Con- necticut and its branches, see Prof. Hitchcock's Geo. page 167, 1st edit. While I believe that Providence operates by means, yet I doubt not there are phenomena which are, and ever may remain unresolved. While conversing in relation to the channel of the Columbia with some literary gentle- men who had frequently passed up and down this river, after several theories were proposed, none of which could bear the test even of probability, one of them remarked, he had been reminded of his boyish sports, when he had dammed up water, and then with his finger drawn a channel through the sand for the water to run ; so it seemed to him that God had drawn a channel for the Columbia. If we do not keep in view the overruling hand of God as a landmark in our investigations, but look to nature, at work in her great laboratory, the earth, as our only guide to teach us precisely how the earth was formed, we shall, at least, be in danger af wandering into mazes from which we shall not be able to extricate ourselves. The condition of the country on the western side of the Rocky Mountains, diflering as it does in the species of its animals, birds, and plants, from that of the eastern side, gives us a view which shows what may be the truth in re- lation to regions of the earth now buried, and which per- haps are regarded as belonging to different Periods, though in fact contemporaneous. Yet in all such cases marks of iso- chronism, or the want of it, doubtless could be found, and with proper care would convince the experienced geologist GEOLOGY. 335 of their diversity or identity in time. Compare the two sides of North America as they now are, and notice tlie difference which exists in their animals and productions. Let now the whole of the northern part of this continent bo submerged, and after a long time be again elevated to its present position, and let future generations examine its fossil remains, and by the rules very generally laid down, would they not conclude that the section on the east side, and that on the west side of the mountains, indicate two different periods of submersion, and that there was a long intermediate period of tranquility between them ? Would not the different genera and species of vegetables and animals lead to this conclusion? Would they not, from the evident difference of temperature of cli- mate in the same latitudes on the east and on the west, con- elude, if there was not a careful search maJe for other marks to show disparity or identity of time, that the west- ern section was submerged, at a period when the earth was much warmer than at a period when the eastern section was submerged ? This would be a rational and legitimate conclusion from the rule, that in strata of the same class, dissimilar organic remains belong to a different period of time, and were deposited under a diflerent condition of the globe. And the gigantic balsam firs, found in the west and not found in the east, would as clearly prove a different cli- mate in the same latitude, and therefore a different period of submersion, as the gigantic ferns prove a different tem- perature of the earth, and of course a different period of time, in which they were deposited. On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, measuring from five to ciirht feet in diameter, and between one and two Imndred feet In height, would be found so numerous as to constitute whole forests. Also the alder of various diame- ' > . ' , ,i !' 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CO ec OJ-^I^OOOtOOCJOOCD^OOOOtOOO we»5cor(^ 09 IT 3 3 -« 1 fe u "« c4 u a o ID 2 43 ,hjo "5 a. 3 13 o 00 at 'S O a 13 3 O bo 3 3 « O w a 3 3 j3 o ;3 o 2I2S."2J^?5^«'ooooooxi ^ (M t^ t— Tj" Tf "^ -^ '* -^ Tjt ro ^^S2?SJgS§S§S^^^^3^SS ^JS^S^^^g^^g^-^^^-^g. (4 J2 '"''"''"''— (i—(|-(i-Hi— (!—(,_( » OQ «3 31 1. ;i| I 354 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. I IT Sp r3 -o ■o '^ 9 o • -a ♦J a -^1 O S Zl n bo s S ki 1 9 o ll ■•^ 13 O "« a ^ 2 B Id (U s o e C3 n •» ♦> o Ih o w > o 'J rt <4-A -o • • c ti >-i rt "w '3 1-1 • .s to rt 1 u • ji n ^ c T) o (1) ^ rt O >s o i P o in O 5 o 00 » t>^ >» ci: T3 '^ ns ^j ? s a 5 a ■i-< I I S o c (4 3 3 O O S) >• >- o o u'u'om u w o u *0 'O 'o *» 9 3 9 3 a q U U U U b h $ -s 3 o .. ! T s 9 00 CX) 00 00 CO in CO irj CO iti ^ 00 in CO cr> 1 to o CO in CO «o CO s CO CO § CO 00 in o CO o CO CO CO 00 O CO ^ CO 00 CO s CO CO CO lO 00 ^ ^ •>* CO O 1-t (N 0< OI ^ cs-^incot-oociOi-HS 03 :^ d 05 T(< m CO t- METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 355 -a o J T S S (3 e4 rt c4 I a, 0] 3 O c J3 *i X -> CD m o o -a I 13 >; "O >> n rt •-H 13 & u ^ ^ ^ he «M • t>l ,C5 o • >. •^ 4-* 10 s .5 S o b rt Clj o s t^ h o > m CO Ctj u Oi O. in 13 3 O .5 13 rt s 3 O s 3 3 3 QO n to to o «0 t' ti, ^ 1 ^ !• a "3 •l « Sa • V J3 ^ "^ ^ -a a .a o 3 s -o 4" 3 • .1- O ■.^ 01 O s • 3 "3 £ o & o -a a 3 "3 • a • d ID > 3 "3 o ID e g • a on m 'a, S nl o 'S, a o o s o OQ "3 00 o 00 CO CO o o 1!^ CI CO Cl CO o 00 o ^ o CO S § CO CO CO s " 00 >* O o CO 00 CO CO Ol O r-t GQ I— 1 CO 1— 1 l-H l-H CO 1-4 • r/) 00 l-H o I-H n a* ■"14 CO Oi OQ •i '•■ 1.' 356 MET£OROLOGICAL TABLE. I t"-, bo c4 .y e • (0 4-* j3 U^ X 1 ^ -§ 3 o s S bn 3 S o u jc u >-, » -3 . :S 4) oo" >< • u tl h TS > T-l ,0 be a i 2 13 Id J a C a ri V 3 b .S V c4 u a 3 B o ID 3 .a I i I i o O a> ^ GJ O 03 *^ pJX ^ pJS O u u u > ei w -• " .5 d 2 - i I «1 P -3 e ei u ei o I u 00 be S ^ «3 3 3 3 « ^ _o ^ _o ■3 "o "« "« o 9 '^ (N (N "* 00 CO fN «44 on 00 CO h- o o O to « C£) to I-- r- »o « lO CO u? CO CO •^C0«0«0C0'^O0CC>»Q0(NOOC0C0 cocor^r^t^ooaoiciocor^oocoi--r^ CO COOCOCOCOQOOOOT) o bn , pit-like le island, Waianae ^he high- ifty feet. les in va- 3ient era- Diamond u, called top, witli to have )f water, nd other the cra- ource of ubterra- Ituated, xcellent , and is The a below The geological formations of this island, and all the others in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning which I ob- tained information, are volcanic and coraline to a great extent. Some have supposed that these islands have been thrown up in the first place by internal fires, and then en- larged by coraline additions. But there is too much argil- laceous soil to favor the opinion ; and to say the least, the supposition is without conclusive evidence. Much of the soil is formed of disintegrated and decomposed lava. The reefs lying off from the shores, and in some places immedi- ately upon them, are coraline. The corals are divided into ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Between these formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancieat corals are found in many places forming the surface of the plains, ele- vated some six or eight feet above the present level of the ocean. As the zoophytes, which form coral, never work above water, it is evident that these islands have been ele- vated by some subterranean or submarine power, or the ocean is subsiding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not the same degree, is it not probable that the waters of the ocean are gradually diminishing ? Of the modern corals there are many species-, from the rock, to the most beautiful kinds resembling trees and plants, and of various colors. The volcanic formations do not differ materially from those in Oregon Territory. Cellular lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice, and of various colors; brick red, ash colored, orange yellow, and green. No primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious sand ; the sand upon the shores being formed either of dis- integrated lava, scoria, or coral, but more generally com- bined of these three elements. While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the 32* 370 ANIMALS. productions of these islands, the following are some of the principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa tree, wluch fur- nishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybiscus, candle nut tree, mulberry, fig, cotton tree, which grows spontane- ously and produces cotton of very fine quality; coffee tree, grape vines, oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons of superior quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root; indigo plant, which grows finely without any care ; the guava, a fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the taste of those not accustomed to them ; taro, sweet and common potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns of extraor- dinary size, and the cactus opuntia, familiarly known as the prickly pear, growing to the height of six or eight feet, is planted in hedge-rows for enclosures. All the most superb tropical flowering plants luxuriate in these islands, among which we find the oriental lilac, eight different species of mimosa, the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convol- vulus, and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, roses, the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beautiful genera. Also garden vegetables of various kinds. These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, contained but very few animals, and most of those now found upon them have been since introduced from the Mexican coast. There are now, horses, mules, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, fowls. The birds which have their residence here, though not numerous, are of most beautiful plumage, and the favor- ite head ornament of the women, is made of the golden colored feathers of a native bird. The crow and raven, which are common in almost all parts of the world, have not found their way here. There are very few reptiles, but the green lizard is very common, and in the days of the idolatry of the Islanders was worshiped, and such is the in- GOVERNMENT. 371 i Tie of the f\nc\\ fur- is, candle spontane- Dlfee tree, melons of it ; indigo guilva, a the taste 1 common ' extraor- wn as the it feet, is 3st superb s, among species of [>f convol- 'er, roses, beautiful contained und upon an coast, ogs, dogs, e, though the favor- le golden id raven, >rld, have ptiles, but ys of the is the in- fluence of superstition, that they can hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insignificant reptile. If one comes into their dwellings, they choose to let it take its own departure rather than molest it. Snakes arc unknown, and the scorpion and contiped have within a very few years been brought here in vessels. The niusquitoo was not known until recently, though now they are numerous and very annoying. The government of these islands is absolute and heredi- tary, administered ^^ the king, queen, and chiefs, whoso will is the suprenv \V ; the common people are a nation of slaves. The lands Delong to the government, and are leased to the people at high rents, and even then they have no security that they shall enjoy the avails of their labor ; for beside the stipulated rents, the government make any addi- tional demands they please, and the people are taught to obey without complaining. The persons of the chiefs are remarkable for their extraordinary size, towering quite above the height of the common people, and in corpulency preserving corresponding dimensions. The king secures his house and person by life guards. Very frequently on a Saturday morning, the queen regent, attended by her train and servants in equestrian style, visits her garden some two miles from Honolulu. Their appearance is fine, and they are well skilled in horsemanship. Her ordinary mode of riding is in a small, low-wheel carriage drawn by twenty servants. The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas, as the com- mon people are called, have less activity of body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual powers are well developed. In their present political condition, they are not expected to be otherwise than indolent and improvident. In their dress, II' 111. I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^ 11? 128 32 i- I ^ 140 25 2.2 2.0 1.8 1-25 .U III 1.6 ^ 6" ► ^^^fv^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation £: :<\^ ^> <^ c\ V \ lV C^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) S72-4S03 372 TEA PARTY — DOG FEAST. mode of living, and habitations generally, they have made but little advance upon the days of heathenism ; some in the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing than their maro, and having their dwellings in caverns in vol- canic rocks. The chiefs, and some of the people, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably. The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, to which with a few others I had the honor to be invited. They were dressed richly and in good taste ; the table was splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china ; the enter- tainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such occa- sions was observed. The conversation was cheerful and intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred embar- rassing to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were in- vited into a saloon well furnished, where, after a perform- ance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro- posed thsit prayer should conclude our agreeable visit; after which the company retired. I have seen but few parties in Christian America conducted more on the principles of rationality and religion. An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted in a ditlerent style by some of our countrymen and other for- eigners in those islands. A dog-feast, as it is there called, was given by foreign resident gentlemen, on the 20th of Sept. at the country seat of the American consul, in honor of the officers of the American squadron, the Peacock and Enterprise, then in the harbor of Honolulu. I extract from the account published in the Sandwich Island Gazette as de- scribed at the time. "Food in native style was bountifully served up — baked dog was among the dishes, and it was not to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bumpers, and speecln. DECREASE OF POPULATION. 373 es all came in their turn. Among the toasts were, ♦Com- modore our Commodore.* Commodore's reply, ♦ May you all live a thousand years, and may wo always meet here.' Doctor of the United States ship Peacock. ' Population and prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, and an end to all oppressive tabus.' The party separated teeming with good spirits." The population of these islands has been decreasing ever since an acquaintance has been had with them. Captain Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present popu- lation is about 110,000. A variety of causes have conspi- red to bring about this declension, and yet no one so promi- nent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enquiry. It is acknowledged by all observers, and has become evident to the government itself, that a change of things in the inter- nal structure of their national affairs, is necessary to the prosperity of the people. During my stay at Oahu, the heads of the nation had frequent meetings to discuss the subject of reform and improvement, and to adopt some new mode of administration which will give to the people the privileges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus- try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed among the people, a more equal mode of taxation must be adopted, industry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity will follow in train. The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposi- tion to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested by foreign powers. Whether the paw of the Lion, or the talons of the Eagle, shall first make them its prey, or whether they shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus prolong the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The manner 'iP 'I' J i m 374 FOREIGN RESIDENTS. in which the king and chiefs are often treated by the offi- cers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet with, would not pass with impunity from a more powerful people. In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had to mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of dictation ; "You shall, and you shall not." Assertions are made of things existing in the laws and practices of England and America, which neither government would tolerate. Lord Russcl, the commander of the Acteon, a British man of war, obtained the signature to a certain instrument, by assuring the Hawaiian government that if they refused any longer to sign it, he would order all the English ves- sels to leave the harbor, and request all the American shipping to withdraw ; and then bring his armed ship be- fore their fort, and batter down the walls, and prostrate their village. The king signed the instrument, and then, together with the queen and chiefs, like some other people who feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had only the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They accordingly sent a remonstrance to the king of Great Britain, in which they say, that " on account of their urging us so strongly ; on account of said commanders assuring us that their communication was from the king ; and on account of their making preparation to fire upon us, — therefore we gave our assent to the writing, without our being willing to give our real approbation ; for we were not pleased with it." They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and therefore submit to indignities from which their feelings revolt. Why cannot the principles of jus- tice and equity govern the intercourse of men with men, where they are so well understood, and the pain- ful necessity be spared of innocence and helplessness FOREIGN RESIDENTS. 375 supplicating that protection which Heaven grants to its children. Much has been said of the character of the foreign res- idents, and of the counteracting influence they exert upon the labors of the missionaries in this field. The cause of their bitterness and opposition is well understood, and lest my own observations should seem partial to the missiona- ries, and invidious towards those who oppose them, I will embrace all I have to say on the subject in a quotation from a work published by Mr. J. N. Reynold of the voy- age of the Potomac, an American man of war. He cer- tainly cannot be accused of partiality to the missiona- ries who reside on these islands, for his remarks on them are somewhat acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign residents he says, " they are generally devoid of all reli- gious principle, and practice the greatest frauds upon the natives in their dealings with them ; which tends to cor- rupt their morals, and to preclude all hopes of fairness in trade among them. It cannot be denied, and no one can regret it more than we do, that this whole population, generally speaking, are of the lowest order ; among whom every thing like decent restraint which civilized soci- ety imposes upon its members, is at war with their vi- cious propensities, and of course resisted by them to the extent of their power." He farther add.^, "let us be dis. tinctly understood in the remarks we have made in refer- ence to the foreign residents and missionaries on this isl- and. As to the question, which party is on the side of virtue and good order, there can be but one opinion, "where there is not even room for comparison." 1 have been in communities where vice has been unblushingly indulged, but I have never witnessed direct enmity to ; il III hi \i 'm: ? I III •:,. 376 ROYAL CEMETERY. every thing morally good, in so much bitterness and pow- er, as in Oahu. Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and manifest a regard for the education of their children ; and send some of them to other countries for this purpose ; but for most of them a chanty school has been established, and for its support a call is made upon the commanders and officers of vessels who come into this port ; and they have even sent to England and America for charitable aid. Though some poor are taught here, yet I know not why the benevolent should help, by way o^ charity, the consuls and rich merchants in Oahu. I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several times for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred seamen in „ .e port of Honolulu, there are frequently very few attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev. Mr. Diell, ,heir worthy chaplain, is iiowever indefatigable in his labors through the week, visiting sailors on ship board, and wherever he can find them, endeavoring to pro- mote their spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned his efforts. On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Prin- cess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, I visited the burial place of the kings and royal family. This is a stone building of rock coral, of the common size and struc- ture of the houses of the village, and situated amongst them, having nothing particularly distinguishable except an out- ward signal, by which is understood the number and rank of the dead within. They are encased first in lead, secured from the admission of air, and then deposited in coffins of elegant workmanship, covered with rich silk velvet or crimson damask, and ornamented with silver or brass plate. MISSIONARY SUCCESS. 377 ind pow- ves, and en ; and ose ; but ihed, and iders and liey have ible aid. ; why the isuls and iral times I hundred ntly very b1. Rev. efatigable ; on ship ng to pro- 3 crowned the Prin- Lt, I visited This is a and struc- ngst them, jpt an out- and rank ,d, secured coffins of velvet or irass plate. Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kamehamalu, who died on a visit to England, and several others lying in state; and in the same tomb, are interred a number of other mem- bers of the royal family. The missionaries of the American Board of Commission- ers for Foreign Missions in these islands, have done much to elevate the character of the population, by teaching and preaching the truths of Christianity, by schools, where the first rudiments of education are taught, by the press, and a translation of the entire bible ; they have exerted a salutary influence upon the morals of the whole nation, and raised a monument to the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus Christ. They have also laid instrumentally, a broad foundation for the political, and social, and religious im- provement of that people, unless thwarted by the interfe- rence and opposition of foreigners, and for the future and unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the world to come. I had frequent opportunities of witnessing the eflfect of their labors in the evidences of the moral renovation of these once idolaters, and of meeting with them in their great congregation on the Sabbath. 33 378 HOMEWARD BOUND. I ill CHAPTER XXVI. Departure from Oahu in ship PhoDnix for the United StatcF — call at the Society Islands — brief description of Tahiti and Eimco — severe gales of wind — Magellanic clouds — Martin Vass island — Trinidad — arrival at New London. From July to November, no vessel departed from the Sandwich Islands direct for the United States, and after being detained about five months, waiting an opportunity to return, I engaged a passage in the Phoenix, Allyn, from New London, and embarked December 17th. The ship was built for the China trade, of four hundred and ten tons, manned with twenty-eight persons, besides five passengers. The pilot boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ; our course south-west. On the morning of the 21st, we en- countered a strong wind, which in the afternoon had in- creased so much, that we were compelled to put two reefs in the top-sails; and a squall split our jib and sprung our foremast. I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy the grandeur of the rolling ocean, being confined to the cabin by sea sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling business, and I was furnished, for once, with an opportuni- ty of seeing the experiment of taking a whale. The thing has often been described, but the novelty of the manoeu- vre interested me. The experienced and skillful whale- men dispose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of their profession, in a manner much beyond my conceptions before witnessing it ; and the monster of the deep, though TETUAROA AND TAHITI ISLANDS. 379 tcf — call at ICO — severe Trinidad— from the and after rtunity to lyn, from 3 ship was ten tons, issengers, morning; st, we en- n had in- two reefs jrung our enjoy the the cabin whaling )pportuni- rhe thing ; manoeu- lil whale- tactics of nceptions p, though mighty in his strength, is made to submit to inferior power, and to contribute largely to illuminate our evenings at home. When the whale is brought along side of the ship, the whalemen dissever the head from the body, and hoist it on deck, and while some are employed in perforating the scull, and with a bucket taking out the sperm, others make a spiral incision in the oily portion, beginning where the head was taken off, and by rope and hook suspended by a pulley twenty feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily part which cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the whale revolves in the water ; and this process is continued until all that is valuable is secured. There are said to be thirty thousand men employed in this business in the Pacific, while only about four hundred are engaged in diffusing the light of life through the dark places of the earth. January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day we had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails were close reefed, — split our main-top-sail. Headed to the E. close on the wind. Very bad sea — not able to take any observation of our latitude or longitude. These gales continued on the 13th until almost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate, and we headed south. By observation raken to-day, our latitude was 14" 47' south. Sabbath, 15t,h. The winds subsided, ana the weather was warm. In the morning we came near Tetuaroa, a small island of the Society group. It is low, the highest parts ri- sing but a few feet above the level of the sea, is thinly in- habited, and adorned with large and beautiful groves of the cocoa tree extending even to the water's edge. The fresh verdure of this island in all the luxuriance of perpetual summer, was a delightful contrast to the constant view of the lii U 380 PEPEETI. i { water for nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of the ocean were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager, and bring to his mind the recollection of his own dear home. Like all the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is sur- rounded with coral reefs, lying off at a little distance from the shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the afternoon we approached the harbor of Papceti, at the island of Tahiti. The pilot came off to us, and made an cflbrt to get the ship in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, and we had to bear off for the night. The prospect as it lay spread out before us was a combination of all that was beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the impression which this little "Queen of the ocean" makes upon a stran- ger. Others have described it with all the vividness which its romantic and delightful scenery inspires. The harbor forms a gentle curve, and in the foreground, on a level tract were scattered neat cottages built of thatch, or wood, plas- tered and whitewashed with coral lime, situated together with the church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa, and orange groves. The back ground of the enchanting picture was filled up with hills and valleys, and streams dashing their way down the ravines, and then meandering through the rich vale below, to the ocean, while the outline terminated in sleep and lofty mountains. But not the least interesting were the marks which the Christian religion and its attend- ant, civilization, have made. Here was a church, and to know that this people had lately been rescued from pagan- ism, and all the hideous forms of idolatrous worship, raised in my heart emotions of pleasure and gratitude, which not even nature's fairest forms had power to awaken. An im- mortal spirit elevated from the dust, and raised to heaven, a monument of the Savior's grace — what can equal it ? CHRISTIANITV AND CIVILIZATION. 381 Monday morning, the 10th, wc passed safely into the har- bor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pierson, from Sag Harbor; on board of which were Rev. W. Richards and family, passengers for the United States. We continued in this port four days, during which timo I made several excursions about the island, and became ac- quainted with the English missionaries, of whose successful labors I had often heard and read; the Rev. Messrs. Wil- son, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They ap- pear happy in their work, and devoted to it. Tlie Christian religion is the only religion acknowledged in these islands, and its influence is universally apparent. As the conver- sion of multitudes in the first ages of Christianity, has ever been considered as furnishing evidence of the truth of the gospel, so the "moral miracle" of the conversion of the islands of the sea, in our own day, is calculated, with all its attendant circumstances to confirm our faith, as well as to encourage us in prosecuting still farther those benevolent de- signs, which render the deserts, both naturally and morally, the garden of the Loi'd. Besides preaching on the Sabbath, the missionaries have religious service on other days of the week. At sun-rise every morning they have a public prayer meeting. They are doing much by their schools and the press ; and most of the people can read. The performances of the natives in vocal music pleased me, their voices being very soft and musical, though less cultivated than those of the Sandwich Islanders. Their personal appearance, com- plexion, language, and dress are much the same as the na- tives of those islands. Their advances in the arts and in agriculture are less than might be expected of them, but in a climate where so many rich fruits vegetate spontaneously, the necesssity of cultivation is less imperious. While the 33* 5 ll 382 GOVERNMENT. harbor is not as good as that of Oahu, less is done by way of wharfing, or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid in re- pairing the shipping winch visit tJiis island. A good public road has been commenced to extend around the Island, on which convicts, instead of being imprisoned, were employed, but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are broken down. The government here is much the same as that of the Sandwich Islands, but is in some respects more free and sys- tematized. Their judiciary is well organized, and justice is tolerably well administered. Their legislative body is composed of the queen, governors, chiefs, and two represen- tatives from each district of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo; the laws when framed are canvassed by the people, and if approved, receive the queen's signature . The young queen Pomare is of very prepossessing appearance, possesses tal- ents, and decision of character ; but her views of civilization are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. The American consul, of these islands, resides at Papee- ti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native and citizen of Antwerp. His English is hardly intelligible, and his knowledge of the duties of his office is yet to be ac- quired. The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They are mountainous, many of which are high and steep, and many of the valleys are deep and narrow, extending far into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil is rich and productive ; oranges and all other tropical fruits being abundant, and requiring little labor or care. Such is the indolence of the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides sugar cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS. 383 by way aid in re- od public .sland, on niployed, e broken at of the and sys- d justice 1 body is rcpresen- 1 Eimeo; c, and if ng queen ssses tal- I'ilization It Papee- itive and ible, and to be ac- er large . They eep, and ding far il is rich its being ch is the Q besides are well supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood equal in value to mahogany for cabinet work. The heat for the most part of the year is so oppressive that though many things are very pleasant, yet those islands come short of the paradise which some journalists have described. These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been di- minishing in populousness. Various causes, such as the in- troduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human sacrifices, the means furnished by commerce of rendering wars do. structive to human life, and the introduction of ardent spirits, have all contributed to this end. It is estimated that only about twelve thousand people inhabit the two islands of Ta- hiti and Eimeo, and about forty thousand the Georgian and Society group. The introduction of the Christian religion has banished many causes of their decline. The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy of re- mark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and sea bath- ing, to which they are induced by the climate, and of which they are fond, including all descriptions of persons, and even children, is highly conducive to health, and promotes a taste for neatness in their persons not common to heathen nations. Wednesday, 18th, I acconipunicd Mr. Pritchard in his pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, where he preached to a congregation in a village in which the queen has her residence. Queen Pomaro was present, and an interesting audience appeared to listen as if they were hearing the word to obey it. After the meeting we pursued our ride about seven miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson's at Point Venus, a lovely spot, situated in orange groves and bananas. Our way thither was around the base of hills and mountains which approached near the beach in precipices, and where the opening through the coral reefs permitted the t'f 384 PUBLIC FEAST. 11' sea to break on the shore with a noise like thunder, so that we had to watch the opportunity afforded by the receding waves to pass their po"ily were ship we le other w pleas. I months idiaman, hips, we track of the great ed up in 1 marked parative- jmmitted re raised ind ; the ik at the on death in a few lyer, the , and the are five houl any soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five hun- dred feet. Two are very small and needle pointed. They are all so precipitous, and the sea constantly breaking against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are fantastical ; one of them having the appearance of a forti- fication with bastions, about which are needle points resem- bling men on guard. They are in 20° 3! ' south latitude, and 28° 38' west longitude. By changing our course more westerly we made Trinidad, off against St. Roque, which is an island of considerable size, and in latitude 20° 28', and longitude 29° 5'. Near evening we were fifteen miles from it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail and lay off* for the night. Some Portuguese once settled upon it, but it is so difficult of access, that they abandoned it, and it is now without any inhabitants. On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within three miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore ; but finding no place free from breakers, gave up the at- tempt, caught a few fish near the shores, and after being much annoyed with flies which came off* to us, we returned to the ship, and with a favorable breeze pursued our course. This island is also volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and is mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for multitudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large. I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man-of- war hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly silky white species of the Tern, which hovered over us with great tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance with us, not suspecting any hostility. I 392 EVENINGS AT SEA. Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable brightness. What has been described by others of evenings at sea, in the southern hemisphere, I had an opportunity of observing with admiration. The richest colors of red, orange, and yellow, are spread over the western sky after the setting sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pen- cil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in soft- ness over this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can lay on these delicate shades, and add to it the brilliancy, ever varying, of so much I'ichness and splendor. In the deep seas we did not see many fish ; of the few which came under our observation, the dorado, or as com- monly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish excelled in the beauty of their colors. The former, when taken upon deck, constantly changed its colors from the bright purple to the gold, the bluish green, and the silver white, and these spread- ing out into vanishing shades. The pilot fish is equally beautiful, but is singular in the choice of company and em- ployment; always being found with the shark, and conduct- ing him to his prey, from which it derives its^ame. The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers for occupying both air and water, but finds no friend in either; pursued by the dolphin or some other fish, it swims with all speed until it can no longer escape its destructive enemy, and then takes to flight in the air, where the albatross and the man-of-war hawk hover to make it their prey. In its flight it often falls upon the decks of ships, when 7naji shows it no mercy. On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a few days we had calms or only light winds with showers. The heat was very intense, and to be becalmed under these CROSS THE EQUATOR — LAND DESCRIED. 393 circumstances is more to be dreaded than gales. But we were much favored, and soon found ourselves in north latitude, and it was witii sensations of delight that I again beheld the North Star, though but just above the horizon. I hailed it as the harbinger of good, and the future guide to the long forsaken iiome and friends which I now realized that I was fast approaching. All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and we observed the gulf weed in great abundance before we came to the gulf-stream. It is an aquatic plant of a pecu- liar liglit green color, and floats upon the service of the water. We entered and passed tiie stream on the 14th of May, in 36° 37' north latitude ; and though a rough sea is generally expected here, yet we had a very pleasant time. The current is at the rate of three miles an hour, and the temperature seven degrees warmer than the adjacent water. On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were cheered with the cry from the man at the mast head, ^^Land ho! ahead." It proved to be Block Island. We came in sight of the light-house in the evening, but too late to at- tempt to get into the harbor before morning, and therefore lay off for the night. In the morning we fo'^nd ourselves among various shipping bound to different ports. We pass- ed Montauk Point and drew near to New London, where the sight of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country around, and the islands dressed in green, were most grateful, especially to one so long conversant with heathen countries and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed up the Thames to the city, and I rejoiced to land once more upon Christian and civilized shores, my native land, my country! In taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and crew to say, that I received from them every kind attention 34* 394 ARRIVAL AT HOME. I could wish, and being a temperance siiip, I did not hear a profane word from any while on board. We had public worship, during the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of God was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the saving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in New London, and after arranging my business, directed my way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d of May, after an absence of more than two years and two months, and having accomplished a journey of twenty-eight thousand miles. APPENDIX. VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES NEZ PERCE LANGUAGE. English. Indian, God, hemukis Tota. Spirit, koonapa. Father, tota. Man, ■ hamu. Woman, iat. Mother, peka. Child, mcaits. Brother, uskeep. Sister, axsip. Husband, hiimii. Wife, waipna. I, en. Thou, em. He, emim. She, aiat. It, ke. They, elahne tetokan. People, tetokan. Heaven, accompenaka. Earth, waitush. Water, coos. Fire, aula. Snow, maika. Rain, waikit. Wood, haitsu. Grass, pax. Hell or bad spirit, koonapa kapseish 306 o VOCABULARY. Horse, shecum. Wliito Bear, huliats. Black Bear, eakat. Beaver, taxi)ull. Otter, collas. Deer, cnishnim. Moose, taissheep. BuflUlo, cocoil. Wolf, siyah. Salmon, natso. Trout, wowalthum. Gun, tcmoon. Powder, popokes. Ball, saip. Stone, pishwa. What is that? etu ke. Who is that ? eshe ke. There, koone. Here, kone. Where, mene. When, mowwa. How many ? moits. None, siou. All, oekalla. Plenty, elahne. Near by. keemta. Great way off, wyat. This road. iskit. Stop, collo. Go, coetuc. Run, willaikit. Go fast. haum teets. Stop here. collo kene. Encamp, wispeix, Sleep, penemeek. VOCABULARY. Eat, hipsh. I hear, en amachish. You hear, em amachish. I unuersiand, (3n amacus. Come, come. I know. en soko, You know, em soko. He knows, emim soko. They know, clahne tetokan soko. I do not know. waiitu en soko. Talk, tumtein. Ride, wyatcus. Wait, coats. Swim, shuway. Love, aitou. Hate, waiitu aitou. Kill, wilpscou. Alive, waikus. Make, ainees. Take, enip. Carry, enip coeta. Give, cnuhanim. Pay, tumaitcus. Make fire, ailix. Worship, tolla poosa. Smoke, keieta. Sun, moon, hasumtooks. Prairie, paix. Mountain, mashum. Friend, sextua. Chief, meohot. Nez Perce, numepo. Blackfoot, quasne. Bonnax, tuelca. American, sueapo. 397 398 Bi.! f. i ii 1 III ' 11 '< , \il i Sill ■1 } ,ii ii i ■■ «; i ' iiM ii i 1 ;i s VOCABULARY. Frenchman, alllma. Head, hooshus. Hair, hookoo. Arm, artum. Leg, waiu. Foot, akooa. Cloth, tahea. Saddle, supen sapoos. Pack, supen saps. Beads, collowin. Good, tois. Bad, kapseis. No, waiitu. Yes, ai. Great, hemakis. Small, coots. Sick, comitsa. Well, penamina. To-day, tax. Yesterday, wktish. Once more, nox emaka. White, hihi. Black, cinmo cimmeo Red, ilpelp. Vermilion, ailish. Paint, penasuet. 1 nox. 10 poetumpt. 2 lapeet. 11 nox tit. 3 metait. 12 lapeet tit. 4 peelep. 20 laap tit. 5 pahut. 30 metaip tit. 6 elaix. 40 pelap tit. 7 quoenapt. 50 pahap tit. 8 wemuttut. 100 pooetap tit. 9 quoies. VOCABULARY. 399 VOCABULARY OF THE KLICATAT NATION, WHO INHABIT THE COUNTRY NORTH OF THE CASCADES. English. Indian. God, Meyoh. Evil spirit. melah. Sun, an. Moon, ulhigh'. Stars, kashlo. Fire, lokkowouks. Earth, te 'tsum. Water, chow wass. Stone, 'p's swah. Wood, ii quass. House, enneet. Bread, shappleel. Pish, t'kuinnat. Deer, owinnat. Bird, 'hat 'hot. Cow, moos moos stun. Horse, kosee. Dog, kosikkosee. Boat, quussass. Man, wince. Woman, iyet. Girl, p'teeniks. Boy, asswan. Fingers, pahhahtopat. Foot, wattekas. Toe, owhunghe. Tongue, melleese. Ear, misshu(plu.)pesahmisshu. Mouth, metolia'hhow. Lip, um, (plu.)pesah um. Black, • chemook. 400 VOCABULARY. M White, Green, Yellow, Red, Good, Bad, High, Low, Many, Few, Little, Who? What ? Knife, Bow, Arrow, Gun, Sea, River, Lake, Mountain, Hill, Valley, Plain, Here, There, Near, Far off, Night, Day, Where, When, I walk, I talk. None, pillas. lahm't. penahkunnootowa.ss. klutsah. seyah. chilooeet. 'quaahme. metee. hugh'lak. millah. iksiks. sindewah. sinmisswah. hahbittelme. toominpass. kiasso. toowinpass. attackass. wannah. wattum. *ke'h. pussque. *tkop. tak. itche. ekkone. 'tsahpah. weat'tpah. *tset. echoosah. minnan. mittach. inikwenahsah. sinewesah. chahow. VOCABULARY. I know. assook sah. I have known, me we sah sooh sah. I see. enahukheno sah. I hear, innasick sah. I taste. quatas sah. I smell, annookse sah. I, sah. Thou, imk'. He, equak. She, equakiik. Head, chlamtukh. Eye, tats'k. Back, koopkoop. Come, winnum. Go, winnak. Give, annik. Large, *nche. Smaller, mi'nche. Smallest, ooksooks. Beauty, seeghewah. All, k'lhweek. True, chawnumsisk. False, t'sis. Chief, kool'ltup. Common men, wullumteen. My father, hahtootas. My mother, naheclas. Elder brother, nahnahnas. Younger brother, incoks. Sister, inchats. Husband, inman. Yes, deh. No, waht. Beaver, wispuss. Rabbit, sinwe. 401 1:1 35 fZ VOCABULARY. Cat, wasswass. Wolf, enahte. Bear, *hollees. Otter, nooksi. Laziness, ilkkah. Sleep, 'tsotah. Soft, uquatuquat. Strength, h'too. Swan, wahhalow. Goat, powyanin. Beads, k'pput. Cold, 'tsoisah. Hard, kHtet'k. 1 lah's. 12 neep'twappena, 2 neep